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WITH MAP. LONDON: JOHN MUEEAY, ALBEMAELE STEEET. 1858. The right of Translation is reserved. LONDON : PKINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. P R E F A C E. The Handbooks for the four Counties of Kent, Sussex, Surrey, and Hampshire, have been drawn up from a careful personal exploration of the country, and from the most recent in- formation that could be obtained. If, however, from the i-apidity of change in every part of Great Britain, or other causes, errors or omissions should occur, those who, from living on the spot, have facile means of detecting mistakes, are requested to aid in the object of obtaining a correct guide for all corners of Old England by sending notice of them to the Editor, care of Mr. Murray, 50 a, Albemarle Street. a 2 CONTENTS. Page Introduction v Sect. I.— KENT 1 Koutes ih. Sect. II.-SUSSEX 225 Routes ib- Index 355 INTKODUCTIOK KENT. Page Extent and History . . . . v Antiquities x Products and Manufactures xiii Geology and Traveller's View xvii SUSSEX. Page Extent and History . . . . xix Antiquities xxii Products AND Manufactures xxiv Geology and Traveller's View xxviii Skeleton Tours page xxxv KENT. Extent and Histoet. The couDty of Kent, the extreme soutli-eastern corner of England, contains 1557 square miles, or 996,480 acres. From east to west (from the Xorth Foreland to London) it " expatiateth itself," in Fuller's words, into 64 miles ; from north to south (Xorth Foreland to Dunge- ness) it " expandeth not above" 38 miles. Eight English counties exceed it in size. Kent, continues Fuller, " differeth not more from other shires than from itself, such the variety thereof. In some jjarts of it health and wealth are at many miles' distance, which in other parts are reconciled to live under the same roof — I mean, abide in one place together." The entire comity, the geological features of which are strongly marked, is divided, according to local experience, into three very distinct dis- tricts : — 1. That of " health without wealth," embracing the higher parts of the Downs, which stretch in a long line across the county and form what is called the "backbone of Kent:" 2. That of "wealth without health ;" this consists of parts of the tree-covered Weald, of Eonmey Marsh, and of the marshes along the Medway and the Swale, where the pasturage is deep and rich, but where ague and low fever are the common lot of the inhabitants : and 3. That in which "health and wealth are reconciled to live together," covering by far the greater part of the county, but best and richest in the valley of the Medway from Maid- stone to Tunbridge, and in parts of the country about Canterbury. Each of these districts assists in producing the diversified scenery and the varied riches that still justify the encomium pronounced on the county iu the ' Polyolbion ' of Michael Drayton : — "0 famous Keut ! What county liatb this isle that can compare with thee? That hath within thj'sclf as much as thou can'st wish : Thy ralibits, venison, fruits, thj' sorts of fowl and fish; As what with strength comports, thy hay, thy corn, thj' wood, — Nvi anything doth want that anywhere is good." vi Extent and History. Introd. Notwithstanding, however, the great beauty of its scenery, it may be said of Kent, as of Italy, that it is a country in which the memory and the imagination see far more than the eye. It has been the scene of some of the most important events in English history ; and if it be true that " to have seen the place where a great event happened — to have seen the picture, the statue, the tomb of an illustrious man, is the next thing to being present at the event in person — to seeing the scene with oiu" own eyes " {Stanley) — there is no part of Eng- land which will more richly repay the attention of the historian or the tourist. The position of Kent, at the narrowest part of the Channel, brought its inhabitants, from the earliest times, into closer connection with those on the opposite mainland, and made it the scene of three important landings, each of them a landmark in the history of Eng- land: that of Caesar (b.c. 55), which united the "remote Britain" with the great world of Kome and prepared it for the changes which were to fol- low; that of the first Saxons (generally dated A. D. 449), which introduced the Teutonic element, and laid the foundations of " this happj' breed of men, this earth, this England ;" and that of Augustine (a.d. 597), who brouglit with him Christianity, and from the results of whose mission "has, by degrees, arisen the whole constitution of Clmrch and State in Enaland which now binds together the whole British emi lire." The land- ing of Cajsar has usually been fixed at Deal (Rte. 10) ; and notwithstanding the interesting paper of Professor Airey (^Arcliaoloyia, xxxvi), who has endeavoured to support the claims of Pevensey in Sussex, it is probable that the Kentish coast between Walmer and Thanet will still be re- garded as the actual scene of the invasion. The historical character of the second landing — that of Hengist and Horsa, which, according to the Saxon Chronicle, took place in the year 449 at Yi^winc's fleot (no doubt Ebbsfleet, in T'hanet) — is considered as more than doubtful by Lappenberg (Anglo-Sax. Hist.), by Kemble (Saxons in England), and by Mr. Wright (Celt, Roman, and Saxon), but has found a champion of no ordinary ability in Dr. Guest, whose essay on the Early English Settlements in South Britain, published in the Proceedings of the Archceological Institute (Salisburj^ volume), is entitled to the fullest consideration. It is at least certain that some of the earliest settlements of the Saxons in Britain were made in the Isle of Thanet and on the adjacent mainland, although the exact period at which they occurred, and the manner in which they were efl'ected, must possibly be allowed to remain nndecided. Some of the most important Eoman remains in the island still attest the occupation of Kent by the " terrarum domini" during a period of four centuries (a.d. 1-400), but no historical events of consequence are recordetl as having occurred here, although it is probable that during the later years of Eoman rule, and especially under the famous Carausius (287-293), the coasts and strongholds of Kent were among the most frequented and important in Roman Britain. It was at this period that the great fortresses of the Saxon shore (Richborough, Rte. 10 ; Reculver, Rte. 9 ; Lymne, Rte. 7} were either first constructed or Kent. Extent and History. vii were materially strengthened, so as to afford some protection against the invading Saxons, whose ships were already hovering about the white cliffs and green marshes of " Kent-land." For elaborate discussions on the character of their early settlements, and of the religion they brought with them, traces of which may still be found throughout the county, the reader should have recourse to 'KcmbXe^s Saxons in En<jland(Yo\. i. and Appendix). Like the Romans, the Saxon settlers retained the ancient name of the province — a word, no doubt, of Celtic origin — which is exjilaiued by Dr. Guest as the " Caint " (Brit.) or "open countrj^" lying along the sea-shore and the Thames, m opposition to the great forest (the Andred's Wood) which covered the interior. Kent seems to have been at first divided into a number of small independent districts or " kingdoms," which graduall3' united under a single ruler. This " kingdom of Kent " continued to exist, with varying fortunes and with a varying inland border, until about the year 823. Baldred, the last king of Kent, was driven from his throne by Egbert, King of the West Saxons, and the first so-called " Monarch of all Britain." The earlier kings of Kent had been the most powerful princes of Saxon England. For notices of the baptism of Ethelbert by Augustine see Rte. 9 (the Isle of Thanet) and lite. 8 (Canterbury). For all that is known on the suliject, however, the reader sliuuld here be referred to Mr. Stanley's deeply interesting paper on the ' Landing of Augustine ' (Hist. Memon'ah of Canterhury) ; to Kemble's Saxons in England, vol. ii. ch. 8 ; and to Dr. Milman's Hist, of Latin Cliristianity, vol. i. A remarkable tradition (see Sivanscomhe, Ete. 2) asserts that as the Conqueror was advancing into Kent, after the battle of Hastings, he was encountered by certain of the inhabitants, who repeated the stratagem of Birnara Wood. They advanced, it is said, under a cover of moving boughs, and presented so formidable a front as to compel William to confirm to their land the territorial privileges or immunities which in some measure it still enjoys. It is possible that the continued exist- ence of the custom of " gavelkind" in Kent gave rise to this tradition, which is referred to by no chronicler imtil long after the time of the Conquest. By the custom of gavelkind — certainly of Saxon origin and still prevailing in many parts of Kent — the lands were divided equally among the children at their father's death, the youngest keeping the " hearth." The bodies of Kentish men were said to be free, and they might give and sell their lands without licence (which feudal holders could not do), " saving unto their lords the rent and services due " {gafol, A.-S., rent, hence the name of the custom). Tliey might sell their land at 15 years of age, and it could not be escheated (for- feited) for felony. Hence the old Kentish rhyme — " The father to the bough, And the son to tlie plough ;" meaning that, although the father had been hung, the son might still viii Extent and History. Introd. till liis ground in peace. This especial privilege seems always to have been peculiar to Kent ; the others prevailed to a very large extent in other parts of England in diflerent customary tenures. The custom of partition according to this system of gavelkind exists in the immediate vicinity of London, and gives its name to the manor or township of Kentish Town. The extent of laiid still remaining subject to this custom in Kent is uncertain. The lands of numerous proprietors were disgavelled by Acts of Parliament between the reigns of Henry VII. and James I., and much gavelkind land belonging to the Church had, at an earlier period, been changed by special grant from the Crown into holdings by mihtary tenure or knight's service. In spite of these changes, however, it is asserted that as much land is at present subject to the control of the custom as there was before the disgavelling statutes were made (Sandys' Consuetudincs Cantict}. Kent, wliich during the half century before the Conquest had formed one of the great Saxon earldoms, and had been ruled by the house of Godwin (whose name has become connected with that of the Goodwin sands, and figures in other traditions of Kent and Surrey), continued to give its name to a succession of great Norman lords after its inhabitants had proffered their fealty to the " alien king." Odo de Bayeux was the first Norman earl ; and his immediate successors were William de Ypres (founder of the tower at Eye, see Sussex, Ete. 13) and Hubert de Burgh, — the " gentle Hubert " of Shakspeare's King John, whose life was one long romance, and whose resolute defence of Dover Castle against Lewis of France saved the countrj^ in all probabilitj', from the accession of a French dj-nasty. The earldom of Kent subsequently passed to Edmund of Woodstock, second son of Edward I., and then to his three children, the last of whom, Joan Plantagenet, the " Fair Maid of Kent,'' was wife of the Black Prince and mother of Richard II. She had been already married to Sir Tliomas Holland, whose descendants succeeded as Earls of Kent until the extinction of the male line in the 9th year of Henry IV. William Neville, second son of the first Neville Earl of Westmoreland, was created Earl of Kent by Edward IV., and, on his death without issue, Edmund Grey, Lord Hastings, in whose house the earldom continued until the death, in 1740, of Henry Grey, 13th Earl, who was created Duke of Kent by Queen Anne in 1710. The titles of Earl and Duke of Kent then became extinct, and the latter was only revived for the fourth son of George III., the father of her present Majesty. The great event in Kentish history after the Conquest is the murder of Becket in his own cathedral at Canterbury on Tuesday, Dec. 29th, 1170. For the minutest details respecting it, the reader will, of course, consult Mr. Stanley's ' Historical Memorials of Canterhury.'' The shrine of the aichbishop rose into equal importance with the most venerated spots on the continent of Europe, and long strings of pil- " The holy blisful martyr for to seeke," — Kent. Extent and History. ^ ix landed at every Kentish port, and found their way alonp; the solitary hill crests, and through the wild forest country which then stretched away from Canterbury towards London. The reputation of the great shrine of St. Thomas materially afiected the fortunes not only of Can- terbury but of all Kent ; and although Dover and Sandwich, before the existence of the shrine as well as after its fall, were and continued to be the principal landing-places from Picardy and Flanders, their daj's of highest prosperity were those in which shiploads of ordinary pilgrims were constantly arriviug at them, and when — a more important but frequent event — great personages — emperors of the East and West, kings of France or earls of Flanders — landed at them with their trains, on their waj' to perform their vows belbre the famous shrine at Canterlniry. The harbours of Kent — Sandwich, Hythe, and Eomney — the Cincpie Port successors of the castles presided over by the Count of the Saxon Shore (see Ete. 7) — became gi-adually silted i^p by the action of the tide, and l)artly perhaps owing to an unskilful system of drainage and embank- ment. Dover alone, by the middle of the 17th century, remained free and accessible; and, from its position at the narrowest part of the Straits, has always continued the favourite landing-place from the Con- tinent. The branch of tlie ancient \Yatling-street which extends from Dover to Canterbury, and tlience by Faversham and Eochester to London, was the road followed by nearly all travellers from the days of the Eomans, imtil the formation of the South-Eastern Eailway diverted them into another track. The East Kent Eailway, however, not yet completed, follows much of the line of the ancient road ; and the tourist, as he flies through that " paradise of hops and high pro- duction," may comp'are the scene as it now exists with the following description by Sorbiere in 1663 : — " Kent apjiears to me to be a very fine and fruitful country, especially in apples and cherries, and the trees, which are planted in rows every- where, make, as it were, a continued train of gardens. The country mounts up into little hills, and the valleys are beautified with an eternal verdure ; and the grass here seemed to me to be finer and of a better colour than in other places, and therefore 'tis fitter to make those parterres, some of which are so even that they bowl upon them as easily as on a great billiard-table. And as this is the usual diversion of gentle- men in the country, they have thick rolling-stones to keep the green smooth. All the country is full of parks, which yield a delightful prospect, and where you may see large herds of deer ; but their gardens have no other ornaments than these greens ; and the best castles (chateaux) you meet with are not to be compared with the least of above four thousand pleasure-houses j'ou have about Paris. However, it must be confessed, the eye cannot but be much delighted with the natural and even neglected beauty of the countrj^ and tlie English have reason to value it. For when Ch'ment VL gave the Fortunate Islands to Lewis of Bavaria's son, and that they beat the drum to raise men in Italy for that expedition, the English ambassador who was then at Eome was presently alarmed and left the place, as supposing this expe- a 3 X Antiquities. Tntrod. dition could be designed against no other country bnt his. It's so covered with trees that it looks like a forest when yon view it from an eminence, by reason of the orchards and quickset hedges which enclose the arable lands and meadows." — Voyage to England. Admiration of bright Englisli turf, and glorification of " nous autres," are characteristics of most French travellers in England. It must be admitted, however, that few country houses of importance are within sight on the Watling-street — the road which Sorbiere followed, and the only part of Kent which he saw. But he might have admired what could then have been rivalled in no part of Europe — the wealth and substantial comforts of the Kentish farmS : — " A Reiitleman of Wales, a knight of Cales, And a laird of Uie North Countrie : A yeoman of Kent, \vith liis yearly rent, Will buy them out all three." AilTIQUITIES. The usual divisions may "be adopted in noticing the antiquities of Kent : Prima3val or British ; Roman ; Saxon ; and Mediaeval, — em- bracing ecclesiastical, militar}^, and domestic buildings. In remains of the first or British period Kent is not remarkably rich, although there are a few in the county of considerable interest. The most important is Kifs Coity House (Rte. 5), a large cromlech on the hill above Aylesford. This is, no doubt, a sepulchral structure of the same character as those common in more thoi'oughly Celtic dis- tricts : but it derives an especial interest from the local traditions which have been attached to it, and which connect it with the first battles of the invading Saxons. There is reason to believe that it stands in the midst of a great necropiolis of the British period, since the surrounding hills are covered with graves ; and parallel rows of stones, resembling what have elsewhere been called " Dracontia," or serpent temples, have been traced across the Medway in the direction of Ad- dington and Ryarsh, w^here are some large earthen mounds and so- called " Druidical " circles, well worth attention. For ample notices of all these remains see Rte. 5. Camps or earthworks, which may possibly be of the British period, are found in different parts of the county. None of these, however, are so remarkable as the deep excavations occurring in various parts of the chalk district, but j^rincipally along the banks of the Thames and Med- way. See, for detailed accounts of them. East Tilhn-y (Rte. 1), Cray- ford and Dartford (Rte. 2), and Chislehurst (Rte. 6). They are commonly known as " Danes' Pits," and are traditionally said to have been made for purposes of concealment during the period of the Danish ravages. That they may have been used in this manner is very pro- bable (see East Tilhiry, Rte. 1), bnt it is certain that chalk was largely exported from Britain during the Roman period (and possibly before it), and it seems to bo now generally admitted that the excavations are Kent. Antiquities. xi those of the ancient quarriers. The British chulk was conveyed from the Thames to Zealand as the staple, whence it passed to the interior of the Continent. On the coasts of Zealand, according to Keyssler, numerons altars to Nehalennia, the patroness of tlie chalk-wor]<ers, have been fonnd lodged in the sand, some of which hear votive inscrip- tions from dealers in British chalk. (Antiq. Septenfrionales.) Of the Roman jieriod Kent can show some of the most interesting relics in Britain. The county was evidently rich in villas, ranged on either side of the Watling-street ; and the walls of many of its ancient churches still bear witness to the wealth of Roman brick and tile which the first Cliristian builders found at their disposal. The valley of the Medway (Itte. 5) was another great centre of Roman life, and there is scarcely a field or a hill-side throughout the whole distance between Rochester and Maidstone which does not contain some traces of ancient abodes and civilization. No rich pavements, however, such as those of Sussex and Gloucestershire, have as j'et been discovered in Kent, although so wealthy and beautiful a province can hardly have been without villas as stately as those at Bignor or at Woodchester. The plough may yet strike up their remains by some fortunate chance. Extensive potteries of the Roman ])eriod existed at I'lichurch (Rte. 4) and at Dimcharch in Romney Marsh (Rte. 13). An examination of the site of the first of these will amply rei)ay the archa'ologist. Great quan- tities of pottery are still to be found in the Upcliurch marshes, including many perfect vessels. The manufacture here was of a coarse kind of ware, although the forms aie always good. The grand relics of imperial Rome, however, which still exist in Kent, and which are at least as impressive as any that remain else- where, are those of the strong fortresses, anciently under the jurisdiction of the Count of the Saxon Shore, — Richborough, the ancient Rutui^ia? (Rte. 10) ; Reculver, or Regulbiuni (Rte. 9) ; and Lymue, or Portus Lemanis (Rte. 7). It is unnecessary to repeat here what will be found with ample detail in the routes indicated above. Every archaeologist who visits this j)art of En'j;land should make a point of seeing these remains ; and the ordinar}- tourist will find the mouldering walls of Richborough, at all events, full of interest. The best (and a vcrj'- excel- lent) book on the subject, containing all that has been ascertained by research or local ex|iloration respecting these fortresses, is ' The An- thquities of liichhoroKgh, Bfculvcr, and Lyinne, by Charles Roach Smith : London, J. R. Smith, 1850.' Besides these remains, the Pharos at Dover (Rte. 7) should here be mentioned. The Sa.ion relics, in which Kent Ims been, and is, especially rich, are for the most p.nrt hidden beneath the soil. The graves of the earliest Teutonic colonists were first explored, on any large scale, by the Rev. Bryan Faussett, of He])pington, near Canterbury, toward the end of the last century ; and liis researches have Vieen fallowed i\\\ of late years, with most successful results by Mr. Rolfe of Sandwich, Mr. Wright, and Mr. C. R. Smith, Unhappily neither Kent nor even London can xii Antiquities. lutrod. boast of retaining the most interesting collections of personal ornaments, weapons, glass, and pottery, which have been brought to light from these " naiTOw houses " of the dead. The museums both of Mr. Faus- sett and (it is understood) of Mr. Eolfe are now in the possession of Mr. Meyer, of Liverpool. A few Saxon relics, however, of much interest, may be seen in the Museum at Canterbury (lite. 8). A descriptive catalogue of the Faussett collection has been drawn up and printed by Mr. C. R. Smith ; and in the same writer's ' Colkctmwu Antiqua^ and Mr. Wright's ' Cdt, lioman, and Sua'on,^ will be found notices of many of the most important discoveries of Mr. Eolfe. The sites of the principal Anglo-Saxon cemeteries in Kent hitherto discovered are the hill of Osengal, near Ramsgate (Kte. 9), and Gilton, in the parish of Ash (Rte. 10). Numerous barrows, however, in various parts of the county have been opened with successful results ; and it is probable that many valuable " hoards " still remain to reward the zeal of the archaeologist. In the riches of medicrval architecture Kent need fear a comparison with no other county. The following are the churches which will best repay the attention of the tourist : — Saxon. — Rte. 2 : Swanscombe. Rte. 7 : part of the church in Dover Castle. Norman. — Rte. 2 : Darent ; Rochester Cathedral (nave). Rte. 4 : Davington ; Bapchild ; Harbledown. Rte. 7 : Paddlesworth ; St. Maiy's, Doverr Rte. 9 : Minster (nave). Rte. 10 : Walmer ; Betshanger ; Sutton ; St. Margaret's at Cliff. Rte. 11 : Patrixbourne ; Barfreston. All of these are interesting ; but Darent, St. Margaret's at Cliff, Patrix- bourne, and especially Barfreston, are very remarkable examples. Transition Norman. — Rte. 8 : Canterbury Cathedral (choir, very fine). Uarly Enfjlish. — Rte. 2 : Horton Kirkby ; Rochester Cathedral (tran- septs and choir) ; Chalk. Rte. 4 : Faversham ; Graveney. Rte, 5 : Lenham. Rte. 7 : Hythe ; Folkestone. Rte. 8 : Westwell (where is some fine E. E. glass) ; St. Martin's, Canterbury. Rte. 9 : Heme ; Minster (transepts and choir) ; St. Nicholas at Wade. Rte. 10 : St. Clement's, Sandwich (the tower is Norman) ; Ash ; Great Mongeham ; Northbourne. Rte. 11 : Bridge. Decorated. — Rte. 1 : Stone. Rte. 7 : Hever ; Sandhurst. Rte. 8 : Chilham ; Chartham. Rte. 11 : Barham. Of these churches. Chart- ham deserves the most particular attention. Perpendicular. — Rte. 5 : All Saints, Maidstone. Rte. 6 : Chisle- hurst ; Sevcnoaks. Rte. 7 : Nettlested, where is some very fine Perp. glass; Cranbrook ; Tenterden ; Ash ford ; Aldington. Rte. 8 : Canter- bury Cathedral (nave). Rte. 10 : Wingham. Rte. 11 : Bishopsbourne. Of other ecclesiastical buildings and remains, the most noticeable are : — Rte. 5 : Mailing Abbey, chiefly E. E. Rte. 7 : Horton Priory, where are some Trans. Norm, fragments ; the remains of a Prece])- toryof Knights Hospitallers at Swingfield, — Trans. Norm. ; St. Martin's. Priory, Dover, E. E. and interesting. Rte. 8 : The remains of the Kent. Products and Manvfactures. xiii Priory of Christ Clnirch, Canterbiirj^- — Xorman, including a staircase which is probably unique ; the gateway and remains of St. Augustine's Abbey, Canterbury, — Early Dec. ; remains of the Dominican Convent, Canterbury, — E. E. The principal relics of military architecture in Kent are : — Ete. 2 : Eochester Castle, — Norm, and very fine. Etc. 5 : AUington Castle, near Maidstone, — for the most part Perp. ; Leeds Castle, — Dec. and Perp., and of high interest. Pite. 7 : Hever, — Perp. ; Tunbridge, — Dec. ; Westenhanger, — Dec. ; Saltwood, — Perp. ; and Dover Castle, — Nomi. to Perp., one of the most important and interesting remains in England. Pite. 8 : Canterbury Castle, — Norm. Of doviestic architecture, the Kentish illustrations, although nume- rous, are perhaps not so fine as those supplied by soiue other counties. Many of them, liowever, possess an historical interest which can hardly be exceeded. The principal are : — Pite. 2 : Cobham, near Eochester, — partly Elizabethan, partly the work of Inigo Jones : the house contains a superb collection of pictures. Ete. 5 : Eattle Hall, Leeds, — a small building of the 14th cent. Ete. 6 : The hall of Eltham Palace, — temp. Edw. IV. ; Knole, near Sevenoaks, the earliest portions of which are of the 15th cent., but the great mass of the first part of the 17th, — the house retains its old furniture and pictures, and is of very unusual interest; Sore Place, dating about 1300, very curious and well deserving notice ; the Moat, dating partly from the reign of Edw. II., — in some respects an unique example. Ete. 7 : Penshurst, the old seat of the Sidneys, — of various dates, and perhaps the most interesting house in the connty ; East Sutton Place, — Elizabethan ; and Boughtou Place, of the same period. Ete. 8 : Chilham, — temp. Jas. I., and fine. Products and Manufactures. Among the " natural commodities " of Kent, as old Fuller calls them, two require especial mention here — cherries and hops. It is probable that one species of the cherry (Prunvs avium) was indigenous in this country, although varieties of the P. cerasus, a native of the forests on the southern slopes of the Caucasus, may have been intro- duced by the Eomans at an early period. The cherry was, at all events, one of the fruits cultivated in Kent througliout the middle ages, although the extent of cultivation had mucli diminished, and the quality of the fruit much deteriorated, when Eichard Hareys, fruiterer to Henry VIIL, introduced fresh grafts and varieties from Flanders, and planted about 105 acres at Teynham, near Faversham (see Ete. 4), from which cherry orchard much of Kent was afterwards supplied. " I have read," says Fuller, " that one of the orchards of tliis primitive plantation, con- sisting but of thirty acres, ]iroduced fruit of one year sold for lOOOZ. . . No English fruit is dearer than those at first, cheaper at last, pleasanter at all times ; nor is it less wholesome than delicious. And it is much that, of so many feeding so freely on them, so few are found to surfeit." xiv Products and Manufactures. Introd. Accidents do occur, however, as in the unhappy case recorded on a tombstone in Plvimsti'ad churchyard : — " Weep not for me, my parents dear; There is no witness wanted here. The hammer of death was p;iven to me, For eating the cherries ofl' the tree." According to Busino, Venetian ambassador in the reign of James I., it was a favourite amusement in the Kentish gardens to try who could eat most cherries. In tliis w^ay, one young woman managed to dis[)0se of 20 lbs., beating her opponent by 2^ lbs. A severe illness was the not unnatural result, — indeed, the " hammer of death " might have been reasonably expected. Busino finds fault with the English cherries, which are, however, praised by Fynes Morison. The varieties now grown in Kent probably exceed in number and in flavour any to be met with elsewhere. The chief orchards are in the parishes on the borders of the Thames, the Darent, and tlie Medway ; and in early spring, when " Sweet is the air with the budding haws ; and the valley stretching for miles below Is white with blossoming cherry-trees, as if just covered with lightest snow," — the beauty of the scene recalls, though it can hardly rival, that of the apple orcliards of Devonshire. By far the most im[)ortant " natural commodity " of Kent, however, is the hop {Hamulus hipulus), which, first regularly cultivated in this coimtry toward the beginning of the IGth cent., has long since become one of the great English crops. The plant is indigenous throughout Eurojie and the north of Asia, and was certainly used by the Celts and Teutons in the preparation of their beer. It was unknown to both Greeks and Romans (De CandoUe, Oeographie Botanique). At what period it first began to be cultivated is uncertain, although it has been regularly grown and cared for in Central Europe for several centuries. The hop, however (although a native i)lant — its British name was Uewig y blaidd, "bane of the wolf"), was not grown in England until the early part of the reign of Henry Vlll., when the best varieties were introduced from the Low Countries ; and by the latter end of the century lieynolde Scot, a Kentishman, and author of the ' Discovery of Witchcraft,' was able to speak of Kent, in his ' Perfite Platforme of a Hoppe Garden,' as the great county of hops. The system of cultivation has changed very little since then, and has been so well described by an " eminent hand " — itself one of the " illustrations " of Kent — (Household Words, vol. vi.), that we cannot do better than appropriate that account. There are about GO,000 acres of hop plantations in England, of which nearly half are in Kent. The best and the greatest number of hops are grown in the parish of East Farleigh, near Maidstone, where " the luxuriance of hops is a jiuzzle to theoretical agriculturists. ' "^I'hougli rich mould,' says Bannister, ' generally produces a larger growth of Kent. Products and Ilanufactures. xv hops than other soils, there is ove exception to this rule, where the growth is frequently eit^hteeu or twenty hundred jier acre. 'J'his is the neighbourhood of Maidstone, a kind of slaty ground with an nnder- stratum of stone. There the vines run up to the top of the longest poles, and the increase is equal to the most fertile soil of any kind.' " Besides this neighbourhood, the country between Faversham and Can- terbury, and that bordering the South-Easteru llaihvay between God- stone and Ashford, are the principal Kentish hop districts ; but the hop-grounds are scattered over the entire county, and there is hardly a parish, except in the marshes, which is quite without them. Wherever they are grown in England, hops are trained on poles, which stand in groups of 3 or 4, at a distance of aboi;t 6 or 7 ft. apart ; and nearly 3000 (worth about lol.) are required for an acre of ground. The female hop alone is cultivated : the male, commonly called the " blind," hop being of no value ; " although it is said that, if tiie male hop were excluded from the garden, the flowers throughout the ground would be wanting in that yellow powder called the ' farina ' or 'con- dition,' which is their chief value. For this reason, one male hop-plant in every hundred groups is generally planted." There are many varieties of the cultivated hop, the best and most luxuriant of which is known as " Golding's." Ko cro]) whatsoever is so precarious as that of the hop, and the steadiest of growers is com])elled to look on his business as a sjiecies of gambling rather than as a legitimate branch of husbandry. " In the warm nights of early summer, when the bine will grow an inch within an hour, fleas and firebh\sts threaten it. When the clusters hang so large and full that everybody (but the wary) prophesies tlie duty will reach an enormous figure, Eeyjitian plagues of green or long-winged flies, coming from no one knows where, may settle on it, and in a single night turn flower and leaf as black as if thej' had been half consumed by fire. ' Honey-dew ' may fall upon it, and prove no less destructive. Red spiders, otter moths, and the ' vermin ' which spring from their eggs, may any day sit down, iminvited, to a banquet costing a couple of million sterling to the Kentish growers alone. Any cold autumn night, ' when the breath of winter comes from far away,' maj^ blight them ; and, finally, mould may suddenl}^ eat up every vestige of flower while the hops are waiting for the picker." It is owing to this extreme pre- cariousness of the cropj that the amount of duty annually declared by the Excise, in respect of all the hops gathered throughout the country, has become as completely a subject; for wagers as tl:e probable winner of the Derby or the St. Leger. This gambling extends to all classes in the hop districts. Almost every tradesman and boy has his " book," or his chance in some "hop club;" and on the publication of the duty many thousands of pounis change liands. Toward the latter end of August and the beginning of September " hop-picking " commences. This is the first jirocess in the saving of the crop; and few scenes are more ])icturesque than that atlorded by every Kentish hop-ground during the picking season. Men, women, xvi Products and Manufactures. Introd. and cLiklron are all employed. " Labourers, costermongers, factory- girls, shirt-makers, tishermeu's boys, jolly young watermen, and even clerks out of employment, all throng the Kentish highways at this time, attracted by the opportunity of earning a couple of shillings per day ; and still the cry is more, and the farmer in plentiful seasons is frequently embarrassed for want of hands." The work is said to be especially healthy and strengthening, owing to the tonic properties of the hop ; and invalids are occasionally recommended to pass whole daj'S in the hop-grounds as a substitute — and a very efficient one — for the usual " exhibition " of Bass or AUsop. Whole armies of pickers encamp at night in the neighbourhood of the grounds. " In huts and stables and outhouses, in abandoned mills, in crumbling barns and dilapidated oast-liouses whose cracks are ineffectually stufied with straw and clay, under pents, against walls, in tents and under canvas awnings, this multitnde cook, eat, drink, smoke, and sleep." Many of these (though fewer than formerly) are Irish, and serious scenes of riot and disturb- ance occasionally occur at the hop-pickings. The hop cutter, armed with an instrument called a " hop-dog," which has a hook on one side and a knife on the other, cuts the bine about the roots, and then, hooking up pole, bine, and all, lays it across the picker's bins. " Down comes a hop-pole, and away goes a swift hand up it, plucking the flowers into a canvas bin upon a wooden frame, carefuU}' avoiding the leaves till it gets near the top of the pole, when, with one stroke, it rubs off all that remain, the few little green leaves at top doing no harm. The pole, with the bine stripped of its flowers, is then thrown aside, just as the cutter, who lias served 8 or 9 in the interval, drops another pole across the bin. Each of these bins holds 15 or 20 bushels, which is as much as the fastest hand can pick in a day. The lower jaarts of the poles, which are rotted by being in the earth, are then cut away, and the poles will be carefully stacked to serve for shorter plants next year." After picking, the hops are removed to the " oast-houses," in which they are dried. These are for the most part built of bricks, and per- fectly circular up to a height of 14 or 15 ft., whence they terminate in a cone, surmounted by a cowled chimney, peculiarly shaped, to allow the vapour from the hops to escape. " C)ast " is said (hut very impro- bably, although we are unable to give a more certain explanation) to be a corruption of the Flemish word " buys " — a house, the first " driers " having been introduced from Flanders at the same time as the hops themselves. In the lower part of the oast-house, toward the centre of a small circular chamber, is the furnace, in which burns a clear fire of coke and charcoal. Into this some rolls of brimstone are thrown from time to time, the vapour from which gives a livelier colour to the hops, and is everywhere (except at P'arnham, in Surrey) adopted. The pur- chaser is, of course, aware that the colour is produced with brimstone ; " but he does not care how you do it, so that the hops look bright." The fire is sometimes enclosed in a sort of oven, and so quite hidden ; and sometimes is placed in a brick stove with apertures for the escape Kent. Geology and Tmveller's View. xvii of heat, contrived by omitting a brick here and there. These apertures are mysteriously called "horses." Above the furnace, and accessible by a ladder from without, are the drying-room and cooling-floor. " On a circular floor, about 56 ft. in circumference, formed of strong wire-netting and covered with coarse hair-cloth, through which the warm air ascends, the hop-flowers lie to a depth of 2 or 3 ft. 1050 lbs. weight of green hops are here drying at once ; but through the little aperture at the top of this sugar-loaf chamber some 850 lbs. of this weight will evaporate into air, so that a day's work of the fastest picker, weighing 100 lbs. when green, will scarcely weigh 20 when dry. The air is only moderately warm ; but the grower, by long experience (for nothing else will make a hop-drier), knows without any thermometer that it is exactly the proper heat — considering the weather, the state of the hops, and a dozen other things. The drying never ceases during the time of picking, and is one of the most difficult branches of the preparation. A man must watch them day and night, turning them frequently until the stalks look shrivelled, and, burying his arms" deep in the hops, he feels them to be dry. This is generally after 8 or 12 hours' drying, after which they are shovelled through the little door on to the adjoining cooling-floor to make room for more." On the cooling- floor the hojis are tightly wedged into their " pockets," and every pocket, before removal, is weighed by a supervisor of Excise, who numbers each, marks the weight, adds his ovra name and parish, and finally makes a black cross upon the seam at the mouth of the sack to prevent frauds on the Government by afterwards squeezing in more hops. This is called " sealing " the pocket. In six months after the crop is got in the " old " duty is payable, one penny and twelve- twentieths of a farthing on each pound weight. The " new " duty of three farthings and eight-twentieths of a farthing (making up twopence) and the additional duty of 5 per cent, will not be applied for till long after the next year's hops are picked. The single manufacture in the county which requires notice here is that of paper in all its varieties, the first mills for the production of which were established at Dartford by Sir John Spielman early m the reign of Elizabeth (see Dartford, Kte. 2). Numerous mills now exist on the Darent and the Medway, the most important being those of the Messrs, Balston, near Maidstone. Geology and Traveller's View. " Five parallel geological belts, of varying widths and outlines, extend throughout the county of Kent in a direction ranging from N.W. to S.E. 'J"he first, stretching from London to the Isle of Thanet, and embracing the Isle of Sheppcy, is a tertiary formation, consisting partly of plastic and partly of London clay, and is, in fact, a continuation of xviii Geology and Travellers View. Introd. the so-called basin of London. The second belt, that of the chalk, is a continuation of the North Downs, and extends from the border of Surrey to the eastern coast, widening as it advances, and forming a broad mass of cliti— " the white walls of Albion "—between Foll^estone and Walnier. A low, marsliy coast stretches from Walmer to tlie Isle of Thanet, where the challv reap[iears and forms the fine promontory of the North Foreland. The chalk intrudes on the first or tertiary belt, through the valleys of the Uarent and the Medway, and extends in a thin line along the bank of the Thames from Greenwich to Gravesend. The third and fourth belts (tlie first very narrow, the second of some- what greater widtli) consist of tlie gault and lower greensand group, both underliers of the clialk. 'Hie fifth belt is that of the Weald clay, which extends from Surrey to tlie sea, between Hythe and the mouth of the Rother, the flat of Romuey Marsh lying below it. Some portions of the Hastings sand formation, which covers so much of Sussex, pene- trate into Kent, and are occasionally found isolated in the midst of the Weald. This, however, is not of sufficient extent to constitute a sixth belt. The geological history of all these formations belongs to that of the great valley of the Weald, or the district lying between the North and the South Downs, and will be found noticed at greater length in the Introduction to Sussex. It should here be remarked, however, that in the frst or tertiary belt the Isle of Sheppcy is of very high interest on account of the fossils with which it abounds. A fulf notice, with directions for the collector, will be found in Rte. 3. In different parts of the clialk district, handsprings, resembling the Hampshire and Sussex " lavants," break out at intervals, and are here called " nailbournes " — a corruption, it is said, of " an eelboume," although it scarcely appears that these occasional watercourses are remarkable for the size or quan- tity of the eels found in them. Like the singular " swallows " on the river Mole (see ' Handbook for Surrey''), there can be no doubt that the intermittent character of these springs is due to the cavernous nature of the subsoil. Extensive fissures, filled with loose blocks of rock, are of not uncommon occurrence in the clialk. After wet seasons, the water which has accumulated in these, overflows, and forms the torrent called a " nailbourne." The Weald (Ang.-Sax. forest) of Kent, still a wooded distiict, was anciently covered with a thick forest, the eastern part of the great Andredes-weald, which extended through Sussex as far as the Hamp- shire border. The timber of Britain was famous at an early period ; and it was probably from Augustine's report of the great oaks which over- shadowed so much of this district (and perliaps of the oaken buildings he found among the Saxons) that Gregory the Great was induced to request that Ih'itish timber might be sent to him at Rome for building the churches of SS. Peter and Paul. The oak is still the great tree of the Weald ; on the chalk the beech flourishes admirably, attaining here and there to very unusual size. Whether this tree can fairly be regarded as indigenous, however, is uncertain ; it is, at least, remarkable to find Sussex. Extent and History. xix Caesar (V. 12) asserting that the British trees were the same as those of Gaul, with the exception of tlie beech and fir ()ira?ter fagnm et ahietem). By whatever route the Romans tirst reached the Thames from the coast, they must have passed over a wide stretch of chalk country on which the beech now grows in profusion. Except the marshes lyins; along the Thames and on the south coast, no part of Kent is level. The Weald is a succession of low hills, to the north of which two parallel chains, of greater height, traverse the entire county from N.W. to S.E. The most southerly range is fomied of the lower greensand, and is known as " the Quarry Hills ;" the other is the line of the North Downs, chalk-hills of varying height, and some- times known as " the Backbone of Kent." In this range the greatest elevations are Paddlesworth Hill, near Folkestone, 642 feet, and Hol- lingbourne Hill, betAveen the Medway and the Stour, GIG feet. Some of the greensand hills rise to 800 feet, and from them the views S. over the rich, tree-shadowed ^N'^eald are often of extreme beauty. In the first belt, that of the London clay, the greatest height is Shooter's Hill, near Woolwich, 446 I'eet. The tourist may be quite sure that from any of the greater elevations in the county he will obtain a view which will ami)ly repay him for all the labours of the ascent. Among the grander Kentish prospects, however, the following deserve especial mention : — From Boiighton Hill toward Chatham (Rte. 4) ; from the high ground of Thanet (Rte. 9) ; from Dover Castle (Rte. 7) ; from the hills near Folkestone (Rte. 7) ; from Goudhurst and its church-tower (Rte. 7); from Bluebell Hill, above Aylesford (Rte. 5) ; from Knole Park, looking south (Itte. 6) ; and from the London road north of Sevenoaks (Rte. G). All these views will be found noticed in the general routes to which they belong. The principal collections of yiictures in the county are at the Belvi- dere (Sir Culling Eardley), Rte. 1 ; at Cobham (Earl of Darnley), Rte. 2 ; at Knole (Lady Amherst), Rte. G; and at Penshurst (Lord de Lisle), Rte. 7. Of these, the galleries at the Belvidere and Cobham are the most important. SUSSEX. Extent and History. Sussex, the ancient kinodom of the " South Saxons," extends in its gi-eatest width 76 m. (between Kent and Hamjshire), and 27 m. in its extreme length (from Tunbridge Wells to Beachy Head). The divi- sions of the county are strongly marked by nature. The greater part of East Sussex is covered by a wide ranQ;e of the Hastintis sand, rising at the centre to a considerable elevation, known as the " Forest Pidiie." The scenery of all this district is very picturesque, and quite distinct from that offered by the other natural divisions of the county — the ^'X Extent and History. Tntrod. Weald of Sussex, which strctclies in a long line from Pevensey Bay to tlie hills beyond Petwortli ;— the South Downs, which extend 53 m. from Beacby Head to the Hampshire border ;— and the level coast dis- trict, stretching away from Brighton, beyond Chichester. Between the chalk of the South Downs and the Weald the usual belts of gault and lower greensand occur. Each of these districts has its own peculiar scenery and features, and each will amply repay examination. The South Downs, and the Forest Ridge, especially, are exceeded in beauty and interest by few parts of England. The o-reater part of the present county of Sussex— probably the whole of it, with the exception of the South Downs and the C(juntry between them and the sea — was anciently covered with a thick forest, the famous Andredswood, or " Andredsleas," signifying, according to Dr. Guest, the " uninhabited district" (««, the Celtic negative particle, and tred, a dwelling). One great Roman road, the " Stane Street," ran from Chichester to London, and penetrated this wooded region in a north-easterly direction. Another, and pcrhajis a more ancieni road, stretched along nearer the coast, and connected the great fortress of Anderida (Pevensey) with Regnum (Chichester) and'^Portus Magnus (Porchester). Anderida, whose venerable walls yet remain, was^one of the fortresses for the defence of the S. coast, placed under the control of the Count of the Saxon Shore. Regnum, the present Chi- chester, was a city of considerable size and importance, and apparently the chief town of the Regni, whose chief, Cogidubnus, is refen-ed to in the Agricola of Tacitus as one of those British princes who maintained a constant fidelity to Rome. A remarkable inscription, discovered in Chichester, and now preserved at Goodwood (Rte. 16), alludes to Cogidubnus as having embellished his native city with public build- ings, and also, it has been suggested, connects Regnum in a very interesting maimer with the history of the earliest Christian converts (See Chichester, Rte, 16). The first Teutonic settlement on this coast took place, nccordins; to the Saxon Chronicle, in 477, when ^lla and his three sons landed at Cymens-ora, probably Wittering, south of Chichester (Rte. 16). They took possession of Regnum and destroyed Anderida, establishing theni- selves over the whole line of coast as the " South Sexe," or South Saxons = Sussex. The numerous terminations in "ing" which occur throughout the county and indicate the sites of primitive "marks" or settlements (see Poling, Rte. 16) seem to prove that the district early became populous. It was, however, cut off from much intercourse with the other Saxon kingdoms by the great wood of Anderida, and by the marshes which extended between it and Kent; and it was not until about a.d. 680 that Christianity was first introduced among the South Saxons by Wilfrid of York, who had been shijiuTccked on the coast. For the singular condition of the district at that time, as de- scribed by Bede, see ^elsey, Rte. 16. The South Saxon kingdom shared the fate of the others, and was finally absorbed in that of Wessex. It formed one of the <^reat Sussex. Extent and History. xxi earldoms possessed by Harold and the house of Godwin, and it was on its coast that the Conqueror landed, and within its limits that the great battle was fought in which the Anglo-Saxon monarchy perished. (For ample details, which it is unnecessary to repeat here, see Fevensey, Rte. 15 ; and BattJe Abbey, Rte. 12.) The entire county was fear- fully ravaged ; and it is probable that the territorial divisions of Sussex, whose aspect differs altogether from that which prevails in other counties, were the immediate result of the conquest. The "hundreds" and "lathes or lastes" which exist elsewhere, arose, we may be tolerably certain, from two main causes — " the first, the natural dispersion of the tribes and races over the country ; and the other, the consolidation of various tracts or townships under one autho- rity or lord ; but nowhere is any trace of system apparent to the eye except in Sussex, where we find a territorial division bearing a name pjeculiar to the countj^, and showing an evident scheine of partition. The Normans were a liard people ; whenever they conquered, and did conquer outright, they went to work like plunderers, dividing the country by measurement — by the rope, as it was termed — measuring out the land amongst themselves, a process which singularly marks the original violence of their character, for in such allotments they neglected all the natural relations which might previously exist amongst the nations whom they conquered. Now this is the process they carried into effect in Sussex, which is divided into six jwrtions, ex- tending right down from the northern border of the county, and each having a frontage towards the sea ; and each of these ruj^es (or hreppar, as they are termed in Icelandic) have within them some one castle, or other important station for defence and protection. In Domesday each rape appears under a military commander. All the original Anglo-Saxon divisions are noticed in the Anglo-Saxon laws, and possessed an Anglo-Saxon tribunal. The rape is not noticed in any Anglo-Saxon law, and does not possess any Anglo-Saxon tribunal. We therefore have good reason to conjecture that this portion of England more particularly occupied the attention of the wise and wary general, and that he treated Sussex entirely as a conquered territory." — Sir F. Palgrave, East Sussex contains the rapes of Hastings, Lewes, and Pevensey ; West Sussex those of Arundel, Bramber, and Chichester. The castles in each of these rapes were either on, or not far from, the coast; and each rape formed what has been called "a high road to Normandy," each having an available harbour at its southern extremity. After the Conquest the great event in the history of Sussex is the battle of Lewes, fought May 13, 1264, between Henry III. and the barons under Simon de Montfort. A full notice of this battle, an im- portant landmark in the history of English liberties, will be found in Rte. 15, Leives. xxii Antiquities. Introd. Antiquities, Sussex possesses no remarkable antiquities of the British period with the excejition of the large entrenchments that crown some of the highest points of the South Downs, and the date even of these is uncertain. The most important are Cissbury, near Findon (Kte. 16) ; Chanctonbury, near Steyning (Kte. 18) ; Whitehawk Hill, above Brighton (Rte. 14) ; the Devil's Dyke, near Poynings (Rte. 14) ; and Mount Caburn, near Lewes (Rte. 15). A chain of camps, some of which in their present form are uncjuestionably Roman, may be traced along the whole line of the South Downs, generally on the hills best naturally fitted for defence, and commanding the country on both sides, toward the Weald and the sea. The downs are everywhere dotted with barrows, many of which are British. The Boman relics in Sussex are very interesting and important. Besides the inscriptions preserved at Goodwood, and the few relics of ancient Eegnum at Chichester, the walls of Anderida still remain at Pevensey (Rte. 15), and will repay careful examination ; whilst the medifeval castle within their area is scarcely less attractive to the archjEologist. The great Roman treasure of the county, however, is the villa at Bignor (Rte. 16), with its large and very striking pave- ments. This should on no account be left unvisited, since it ranks among the most important remains of its class in Britain. It stood on the ancient Stane Street, the line of Roman road which ran from Regnum (Chichester) to London ; and about 3 m. beyond it, in the parish of Pulborough, are the remains of a Roman station. Villas (but of far less importance) have also been found at Angmering and at Bognor, on the coast. Sussex is far richer in its churches and ecclesiastical architecture than is generally supposed. The following list contains the most interesting and instructive. The greater part of those named deserve very careful attention. Saxon. — Kte. 14: Worth — perhaps affording the most complete gi-ound-plan of a Saxon church which remains. It exhibits much external structural decoration in narrow strips of plain masonry. The chancel and transeptal arches are without doubt Saxon. Kte. 15 : Jevington ; the tower has been called Saxon, and at all events deserves notice. Ete. 16 : Sompting; Bosham. Norman. — Rte. 15: Kewhaven; Bishopstone (partly). Rte. 16: Old and New Shoreham, both very interesting; Chichester Cathedral (nave). Rte. 18 : Amberley ; Steyning (imjiortant). Trimsition.—YiiQ. 12: Battle (parts). Rte. 13: Rye. Rte. 15: Eastbom-ne ; Bishopstone (jiarts). Rte. 16 : New Shoreham (parts) ; Broadwater (very rich); Chichester Cathedral (parts); Boxgrove (parts). Rte. 18 : Steyning (parts). The most advanced specimen of this period is aflbrded by Bp. Seffrid II.'s work in Chichester Cathedral. Sussex. Antiquities. xxiii The two easternmost compartments of the choir, begun 1186, com- pleted 1199, exhibit very striliiugly the mixture of the two styles. Early English. — Sussex, especially the western division, is said to possess more unaltered examples of this period than any other English county. Rte. 13 : Rye (parts). Rte. 14 : Ditchling. Rte. 16 : New Shoreham (parts) ; West Tarring ; Climping (very good and curious) ; Boshara (parts) ; Appledram ; Chichester Cathedral (parts) ; Boxgrove (])arts). Rte. 18 : Wisborough Green. Of these. West Tarring, Climping, Appledram, and Wisborough Green, remain almost entirely as when first constructed in the 13th century. Decorated (Geometrical, 1245 to 1315). — Rte. 13 : St. Thomas's, Winchelsea ; very fine and interesting. Rte. 15 : Buxted (chancel) ; Pevensey. Rte. 16 : Chichester Cathedral (Lady Chapel) ; Chichester, Priory Chajiel, now the Guildhall ; Chapel of St. Mary's Hospital. Decorated (Curvilinear, 1315 to 1360). — Rte. 12 : Etchingham ; very good. Rte. 13 : Monuments in St. Thomas's Church, Win- chelsea, ranking " among the noblest conceptions of this period in the kingdom." Rte. 15 : Alfriston. The churches of Etchingham and Alfriston, both in the form of a Greek cross, are nearly throughout of this time, and well deserve examination. Perpendicular (1360 to 1550). — There are few churches of this time in Sussex. The best are, — Rte. 12 : Mayfield. Rte. 14 : Poynings. Rte. 16 : Arundel. Rte. 18 : Pulborough." Of other ecclesiastical remains the most important in Sussex are, — Rte. 12 : the ruins of Bayham Abbey (a house of Premonstratensian Canons), on the borders of Kent— these are E. E. and Dec, and will repay a visit ; Battle Abbey, chiefly E. E., and of the highest historical interest. Rte. ] 5 : some fragments of the Clnniac Priory of St. Pancras, at Lewes ; jMrtions of the Benedictine Priory at Wilmington, and (more important) of the Augnstinian Priory at Michelham. (These last are of E. E. character.) At (Rte. 16) P)Oxgrove are some remains of the Benedictine priory adjoining the church ; and at (Rte. 19) Shulbrede, among the scanty ruins of the Augnstinian priory, is a chamber containing some curious wall paintings. Sussex contains some important specimens of military architecture. Among them are, — Rte. 12 : Hastings Castle, partly Norm., and more interesting from its site than from its existing remains. Rte. 14 : a Norm, fragment of Knepp Castle. Rte. 15 : the fine remains of Lewes Castle, of Edwardian character, with some Norm, traces, and very interesting; Pevensey, principally dating from the end of the 13th centy., — a grand mediaeval ruin in the area of a Roman town, the walls of which remain ; Hurstmonceux, a brick building of the reign of Hen. VI., picturesque and striking. Rte. 16 : the Norm, keep of Arundel Castle, very fine, and commanding a noble view. Rte. 18 : a Norm, fragment of Bramber Castle. Among the specimens of domestic architecture the archa?ologist should notice, — Rte. 12 : an E. E. manor-house at Crowhurst, near Hastings ; and the remains of the archiepiscopal palace at Mayfield — the hall is xxiv Products and Manufactures. Introd. of the 14tli centy., very fine and interesting. Ete. 14 : Cuckfield Place, dating from the end of the IGth centy ; Street, near Lewes, a fine old James I. mansion ; and Danny, near Hurstpierpoint, one of the many Elizabethan houses which shelter themselves under the northern slope of the South Downs, lite. 15 : at West Dean, about 3 m. from Seaford, is a parsonage-house of the 14th centy., well deserving a visit. Rte. 18 : Parham, a fine Elizabethan house, full of ancient treasures, must on no account be overlooked ; and beyond it is Wiston, also Elizabethan, but of earlier date. Prodtjcts and Manufactures. Sussex is at present a purely agricultural county, and is rather behind her neighbours in the application of modern science and im- provements. Hops are grown to some extent in the eastern division ; and the famous breed of South Down sheep (see Glynde, Rte. 15) has long since been extended throughout England. Sussex, however, exercises at present very little influence either by her agriculture or her manufactures, although the time has been when the greater part of the county was the " Birmingham " of England. Throughout the 16th and 17th centuries the iron-works of Sussex were of the highest importance, and the tourist will still find traces of them scattered through the now solitary woodlands, chiefly of the eastern division. A most valuable notice of the Sussex iron- works was in- serted by Mr. Lower in the ' Sussex Archajological Collections,' and has since been reprinted by him in his ' Contributions to Literature,' a volume, it should be added, which contains many papers of the highest interest to the tourist in Sussex. The following account of the ancient iron-works of the county has been chiefly extracted from Mr. Lower's paper. The strata producing iron ore lie on the central portion of the Weald formation, in the sandstone beds called the Forest Ridge, and by geologists the Hastings sand. The beds run in a N.W. direction, from Hastings, by Ashburnham, Heathfield, Crowborough, Ashdown Forest, Worth, Tilgate Forest, and St. Leonard's Forest ; the country, as has already been mentioned, formerly covered by the great wood of Anderida. The highest point is Crowborough (804 ft.). " The iron was here produced by vegetable and animal decomposition in the bed and delta of a mighty river, which flowed through countries inhabited by the iguanodon and other colossal reptiles." — Mantell. " It appears to me that the ore in the Forest Ridge was the clay ironstone of the ' Wealden beds.' At the western extremity of the district it is tliought that the ferruginous sands of the lower greensand were used ; but in the clay country of the Weald I have found sufficient evidence of the exclusive use of a comparatively recent concretion, a kind of bog-iron, frequently turned up by the plough, and called ' iron rag.' It is com- posed of clay, gravel, and about 25 or 30 per cent, of oxide of iron ; Sussex. Products and Manufactures. xxv and is a superficial and fragmentary formation, a recent ' pudding- stone.'" — P. J. Martin. The period at wliicii tlie iron of Sussex was first worked is quite unknown. The Rev. Edward Turner of Maresfield has, however, dis- covered Roman relics in a cinder-bed in his parisli, indicating an exten- sive settlement. Many coins, mostly of Vespasian, Samian ware, and other articles, have been found here ; and Roman coins have since been discovered in cinder-beds at Sedlescombe, at Westfield, and at Fram- field (the cinders are the scoria? of disused furnaces, and are now turned to account in repairing the roads). It is probable, however, that the Britons were acquainted with these iron-fields before the Roman inva- sion. Ca3sar describes the use of iron rings for coin, and asserts that iron was produced in the maritime districts, though in small quantity. It is not clear, though it is probable, that the ore continued to be worked by the Saxons. The iron-beds of Sussex are not mentioned in Domesday, although some others are. The earliest record of the works occurs in the murage grant made by Henry III. to the town of Lewes in 1266. This empowers the inhabitants to raise tolls for the repair of the walls after the battle. Every cart laden with iron from the neighbouring Weald was to pay I'i., and every horse-load |'i. In 1290 payment was made to Master Henry of Lewes for iron-work for the monument of Henry III. in Westminster Abbey ; and 3000 horse- shoes and 29,000 nails are recorded as having been provided by Peter de Walsham, Sheriff of Surrey and Sussex (13 Edw. II.), for the expedition against Scotland. The oldest existing article of Sussex iron remains in Burwash Church, and is a cast-iron monumental slab, with a cross, and an inscription in relief. It is of the 14th centy., and probably unique. The insci'iption, in Longobardic letters, is " Orate P. Annenia Ihone Coline," INlistress Joan Collins having possibly been an "iron-mistress" at Socknersh furnace, in Brightling, where the Collins family was settled. Andirons and other articles of the 15th centy. are still found in some numbers in old mansions and farmhouses ; and work of the 16th cent}', is com- paratively common. Some of the banded guns of wrought iron i)re- served in the Tower of London, and dating from the reign of Heur}^ VI., were of Sussex manufacture. A mortar, formerly remaining at Bridge Green, in the parish of Frant, is said to have been the first made in England ; and it is probable that most of the pieces employed in our continental wars of the 14th and 15th centuries were manufactured in Sussex, These hooped guns were superseded by cannon cast in an entire piece, and bored, as at present. The first of these iron cannon ever produced in England were cast at Buxted, b}^ Ralf Hoge, or Hogge, in 1543 (35 Hen. VHL). At the commencement of his work he was assisted by French and Flemish gunsmiths, but afterwards " made by himself ordnance of cast iron of diverse sorts." The Hogge family resided at Hog House, near Buxted Church ; and over the door of their ancient dwelling their rebus, a hog, with the date 1581, may still be seen. The name seems to have become confounded with thar [Kent and Sussex.'] h xxvi Products and Manufactures. Introd. of Hiiggett ; since at Hiiggett's furnace, between Buxted and Mayfield, the first iron ordnance is said by tradition to have been cast : — " Master Huggett and his man John, They did cast the first can-non " — runs the local rhyme. Many Huggetts still carry on the trade of blacksmiths in East Sussex. The trade increased rapidly during the 16tli century, when many Sussex families enriched b}- it assumed the rank of gentry. Nor was it neglected by those of more ancient descent. Ashburnhams, Pel- hams, Sidneys, and Howards engaged in it to the destruction of ancestral oak and beech, and with all the apparent ardour of Birmingham and Wolverhampton men in these times. Others of lesser rank eagerly followed, the Fullers recognising the profit they gained in their motto, " Carbone et forcipibus." The destruction of woods throughout the coimty began to be noticed early in the 1(3 th century, and some provisions were made by Henry VIIL and Elizabeth against its increase. But the waste still con- tinued. John Norden, in his 'Surveyor's Dialogue' (1607), asserts that there were in Sussex nearly 140 hammers and furnaces for iron, each of which consumed every 24 hours from 2 to 4 loads of charcoal. But there was, he thought, some doubt whether the clearance was altogether hurtful, since "people bred among woods are naturally more stubborne and uncivil than in the champion countries.*' Drayton, in his ' Polyolbion,' however, finds no consolation for the " stately wood nymphs " of Sussex. " These forests, as I say, the daughters of the Weald (That in their heavy breasts had long their griefs concealed), Foreseeing their decay each hour so last come on. Under the axe's strolce, fetched many a grievous groan. When as the anvil's weight, and hammer's dreadful sound. Even rent the IkjUow woods and shook the queachy ground ; So that tlie trembling njTiiphs, oppressed through ghastly fear. Ran madding to the downs, with loose dishevelled liair. The sylvans that about f.he neighbouring woods did dwell. Both in the tufty frith and in the mossy fell, Forsook their gloomy bowers, and wandered far abroad, Expelled their quiet seats, and place of their abode, "Wljen labouring carts they saw to hold their daily trade. Where they in summer wont to sport them in the shade. ' Gould we,' say they, ' supjiose that any would us cherish AVhicIi sufl"er every day the holiest things to perish ? Or to our daily want to minister supply i" The.se iron times breed none that mind posterity. 'Tis but in vain to tell what we before have been. Or changes of tlie world that we in time have seen ; AVhen, not devising how to spend our wealth with waste, We to the savage swine let fall our larding mast. But now, alas ! ourselves we have not to sustain ; Nor can our tops suffice to shield our roots from rain. Jove's oak, the warlike ash, veined elm, the softer beech, Short hazel, maple plain, light asp, the Ijending wych, Tougli holly, and snionth birch, must altogether burn; What should the builder serve supplies the forger's turn, When under public good bise private gain takes hold, And we, poor wolul woods, to ruin lastly sold.' " Sussex, Products and Manufactures. xxvii Although the Forest Eidpie of Sussex still contains much timber, the great woods of the Ashdown district entirely disa]>peared duricg the period of the ironworks, and the South Downs themselves are at present scarcely more bare and treeless. The Sussex iron varied in quality, " Some," saj^s Camden, " was more brittle than the Spanish iron ;" but that worked at the Ashburn- ham forges excelled in quality of toughness, " and I have been assured by smiths who have used it," sa^-s Mr. Lower, " that it was no wise inferior to the Swedish metal, generally accounted the best in the world." The casting of brass was extensively carried on, and bell- founding successfully practised. (A new peal for Eastbourne was cast at Chiddingly in 1G51 ; the bells of Hailsham were cast on Bell Bank, a spot near the town.) Steel was manufactured at Warbleton (where is a place called " Steel forgeland ") and at Kobertsbridge. 1'he site of an iron-work was chosen near to beds of ore and to some available water-power. Artificial ponds were generally constructed by dams of earth against the stream, with an outlet of masonry for the supply of water, by means of which the wheel connected with tlie machinery of the hammer or the furnace was set in motion. Many of the finest sheets of water in Sussex are tlius due to the iron-works. Other meadow-, once converted into ponds and pools, have again been drained. The trade reached its greatest extent in the 17th century ; and, as late as 1724, the iron manufacture was still considered the chief interest of the county, but the decline had already commenced. The vast con- sumi)tion of wood rendered the production of iron in this district more expensive than in the localities where coal-mines and iron-ore are close together ; hence competition with them became hopeless, though the works continued as late as 1750, Farnhurst in West Sussex and Ash- burnham in the eastern division of the county wfire the last places at which they were carried on. The Ashburnham furnace was in work at the end of the last century. The principal existing remains of Sussex iron, besides the hooped gims already mentioned, are — andirons and chinmey -backs, dating from the 14th to the 17th centuries (the work of these varies in character, but is sometimes very good and graceful), and monumental slabs, dating from the early part of the 17th centuiy to the time at which the manufacture ceased altogether. Specimens occur in most of the churches throughout the district. At Wadhurst are no less than thirty examples, ranging between 1625 and 1799, all in very rude and bold relief. Many of the persons commemorated were connected with the trade in the parish. (A similar use of Scandinavian iron is made in the Norwegian cathedral of Trondlijeim.) One other relic of the Sussex works should here be mentioned : the balustrades round St. Paul's Cathedral, weighing, together with 7 gates, about 200 tons, were cast in the parish of Lamberhurst, at a cost of 11,202Z. Os. ^d. A furnace near Mayfield disputes this honour, which really, however, belongs to "Gloucester Furnace" at Lamberhurst, where the annual consumption of wood was 200,000 cords. Cannon cast in this furnace are said to h 2 xxYiii Geology and Travellers View. Introd. have been conveyed by smugglers for the iiae of French privateers during the war with EngLand. The discovery of this, it is also asserted, caused the withdrawal of many Government contracts and the conse- quent decline of the works at Lamberhurst. The iron-works belonging to the Crown and to all royalists were destroyed by Sir William Waller after the taking of Chichester and Arundel in 1643. Geology and Traveller's View. The main geological divisions of Sussex have already been mentioned. They belong to what is called the Valley of the Weald, and arc con- nected with the history of the chalk formations, which must here be briefly noticed. The reader should also be referred to Sir Charles Lyell's ' Principles of Geology,' book iv., ch. 21, and to the geological essays supplied by the late Dr. Mantell to Brayley's ' History of Surrey,' vol. i. p. 121, and vol. v. p. 51. From the large expanse of chalk forming the central portion of Hamjishire two branches are sent off: one through the hills of Surrey aud Kent to Dover, forming the ridge called the North Downs, and the other through Sussex to the sea at Beachy Head, constituting the South Downs. The country between these branches constitutes the Valley of the Weald, and contains four distinct formations. First, a narrow band of gault, ranging quite round the valley at the foot of the chalk ; next, a ring of lower greensand, a very complex grouji, con- sisting of grey, yellowish, and greenish sands, ferruginous sand and sandstone, clay, chert, and silicious limestone ; thirdly, an inner ring of Weald clay, composed tor the most part of clay without intermixture or calcareous matter, but sometimes including thin beds of sand and shelly limestone ; and lastly, in the centre of the district a high ridge formed of the Hastings sands, composed chiefly of sand, sandstone, clay, and calcareous grit, passing into limestone. Each of the belts, which are here called rings, terminates abruptly toward the sea in the same manner as the chalk itself. The chalk is, of course, the uppermost of all these formations, and in order to account for the ajipearance and denudation of the different beds intervening between the two branches of the North and South Downs various hypotheses have been proposed. That now generally adopted is Sir Charles Lyell's, who conceives " that the chalk, together with many subjacent rocks, may have remained imdisturbed and in horizontal stratification rmtil after the commencement of the Eocene j)eriod. When at length the chalk was upheaved and exposed to the action of the waves and currents, it was rent and shattered, so that the subjacent secondary strata were soon after exposed to denudation. The waste of all these rocks, composed chiefly of sandstone and clay, sup- plied materials for the tertiary sands and clays, while the chalk was the source of flinty shingle aud of the calcareous matter which we find Intermixed with the Eocene clays." The tertiary sands and gravels Sussex. Geology and Travellers View. xxix occur in the so-called basins of London and Hampshire, lying without the Valley of the Weald north and south. " The tracts now sej)arating these basins " (the North and South Downs) " were those first ele- vated, and which contributed by their gradual decay to the production of the newer strata. These last were accumulated in deep submarine hollows, formed probably by the subsidence of certain parts of the chalk, which sank while the adjoining tracts were rising." — i^ydl, book \\\ ch. 20. Whether the chalk ever extended completely over the country between the North and South Downs is, of course, uncertain. Sir Charles Lyell, however, considers that it did so, and accounts for the absence of all ruins of chalk on the central district by supposing that " the rise of the land was very gradual, and the subterranean movements for the most part of moderate intensity. During the last century earthquakes have occasionally thrown down at once whole lines of sea cliffs for several miles continuously ; but if this had happened repeatedly during the waste of the ancient escarpments of the chalk now encircling the Weald, and if the shocks had been accompanied by the sudden rise and conversion of large districts into land, the Weald Avould have been covered with the ruins of those wasted rocks, and the sea could not possibly have had time to clear the whole away." The gradual rise of the strata is thus explained: "Supposing the line of the most violent movements to have coincided with what is now the central ridge of the Weald Valley ; in that case, the first land which emerged must have been situated where the Forest Ridge is now placed. Here a number of reefs may have existed, and islands of chalk, which may have been gradually devoured by the ocean in the same manner as Heligoland and other European isles have disappeared in modern times. Suppose the ridge or dome first elevated to have been so rent and shattered on its summit as to give more eas}^ access to the waves," until at length the masses thus shattered were removed. "Two strips of land might then remain on each side of a channel, in the same manner as the opposite coasts of France and England, com- jDOsed of chalk, present ranges of white cliffs facing each other. A powerful current might then rush, like that which now ebbs and flows through the Straits of Dover, and might scoop out a channel in the gault. We must bear in mind that the intermittent action of earth- quakes would accompany this denuding process, Assuring rocks, throwing down cliffs, and bringing up, from time to time, new stratified masses, and thus greatly accelerating the rate of waste. If the lower bed of chalk on one side of the channel should be harder than on the other, it would cause an under terrace resembling that iireseuted by the upper greensand in parts of Sussex and Hampshire. When at length the gault was entirely swept away from the central parts of the channel, the lower gi'eensand would be laid bare, and portions of it would be- come land during the continuance of the upheaving earthquakes. Meanwhile the chalk cliffs would recede farther from one anotliei", whereby four parallel strips of land, or perhaps rows of islands, would be caused." The faces of the chalk range which front the Weald (the a XXX Geology and Traveller s View. Introd. north face of the South Downs and the south termination of the North Downs) form steep declivities, called by geologists the "escarpment of the chalk." This escarpment may he traced from the sea at Folke- stone along the south face of the North Downs to Guildford and the neighbourhood of Petersfield, and thence to the termination of the South Downs at Beachy Head. " In this precipice or steep slope the strata are cut oif abruptly, and it is evident that they must originally have extended farther." The view from the hill above Steyning in Sussex displays very clearly the character of this escarpment. " The geologist caimot fail to recognise in this view the exact likeness of a sea-cliff; and if he turns and looks in an opposite direction, or eastward, towards Beachy Head, he will see the same line of height prolonged. Even those who are not accustomed to s[)eculate on the former changes which the surface has undergone may fancy the broad and level plain to resemble the flat sands which were laid dry by the receding tide, and the different projecting masses of chalk to be the headlands of a coast which separated the different bays from each other." — Lyell. The drainage of all this district " is not effected by watcsrcourses following the great valleys excavated out of the argillaceous strata, but by valleys which run in a transverse direction, passing through the chalk to the basin of the Thames on the one side, and to the English Channel on the other. In this manner the chain of the North Downs is broken by the rivers Wey, Mule, Daren t, Medway, and Stour ; the South Downs by the Arun, A(lur, Ouse, and Cuckmere." " These great cross fractures of the chalk, which have become river channels, have a remarkable correspondence on each side of the Valley of the Weald, in several instances the gorges in the North and South Downs a])pcaring to be directly opj)osed to each other. Thus, for exampile, the defiles of the Wey in the North Downs, and of the Arun in the South, seem to coincide in direction ; and in like manner the Ouse corresi>onds to the Dareut and the Cuckmere to the Medway. Although these coin- cidences may perhaps be accidental, it is by no means improbable that the great amount of elevation towards the centre of the Weald district gave rise to transverse fissures." If these transverse hollows could be filled up, all tlie rivers, observes Mr. Conybeare, woidd be forced to take an easterly course, and to empty themselves into the sea by liomney Marsh and Fevensey Levels. The various formations between the two ranges of Downs, which, according to this hypothesis, have been laid bare by the upheaval and subsequent removal of the chalk, ofier very distinct scenery and pecu- liarities. The Forest Rifhje, formed of the Hastings sands, is perhaps the most romantic portion of the county (see Ute. 17). Steep and abrnjit hills, intersected by numerous stream- valleys, extend in a long line from Fairlight to Horsham. The valleys are themselves picturesque and full of beauty. From the hills noble views are com- manded toward the sea and the Downs on eitlier side. The highest ]K)int <if this ridge is Crowborough Beacon (804 feet). Scots pine and fir (l)oth of comparatively recent introduction), beech and birch abound Sussex. Geology and Traveller's View. xxxi throughout tlie district. The country of the Weald clay, which en- circles the Forest llidge, is more level, but by no means tame. The oak is here the principal tree. This district was " once the bed of an ancient delta or estuary, formed by a river of great extent, flowing through a country possessing a tropical flora, and inhabited by reptiles of appalling magnitude, and of species which no doubt became extinct ere the creation of the human race." Many of these reptiles — among tliem the Iguanodon and the Hylajosaurus — were first discovered in Tilgate Forest by Dr. Man tell. Between the Weald clay and the chalk, beds of the loiver greensand intervene, presenting here and there, especially about Midhurst and i'etworth, some very interesting sc'jnery. But the most peculiar district in the country — as striking and picturesque in its way as the Forest Ridge — is that of the chalk, forming the range of the South Downs. The South Downs in Sussex extend to 53 miles in length, with an average breadth of 42 miles, and an average height of about 500 feet. The greatest elevations are attained at Ditchling Beacon (858 feet), and at Firle Beacon (820 feet). Chanctonbury King (814 feet) is, how- ever, a more conspicuous mark at a distance, owing to the dark mass of firs with which it is crested. It may be distinctly recognised from the range of the North Downs in Surrey. About 300 species of shells, zoophytes, and fishes have been dis- covered in the chalk. The great beauty of its outlines, and the graceful undulations which, fold after fold, pass away into the extreme distance — " lines of beauty, unequalled except in some island group of the Pacific" — are alone sufficientlv attractive. But tli^ magnificent prospects commanded from these hills, and the perfect freedom with which it is jtossible to ride or walk for miles along their unenclosed summits, render the Sussex Downs one of the most delightful districts in the south of England. " Though I have now travelled them for upwards of thirty years," writes Gilbert White to Barrington (Letter 17), " j'et I still investigate that chain of majestic mountains with fresh admiration year by year, and 1 think I see new beauties every time I traverse it." ..." Mr. Ray," he continues, " used to visit a family just at the foot of these hills, and was so ravished with the pros- pect from Plumpton Plain, near Lewes, that he mentions those scapes in his ' Wisdom of God in the Works of the Creation,' with the utmost satisfaction, and thinks them equal to anything he had seen in the finest jiarts of FiUrope." The tourist, if he penetrate at all beyond those parts of the range usually visited (in the immediate neigh- bourhood of Brighton), will find the South Downs less hackne3'e<l ground and quite as interesting as many parts of the Continent which enjoy a far higher reputation. The best and most complete notice of them will be found in Mr. Lower's Contributions to Literature, to which reference has already been made. The eastern half of the South Downs, from Beachy Head to beyond Lewes, is more bare and treeless, though perhaps finer in form, than the hills farther west. The great sweeps of the chalk are everywhere xxxii Geology and Traveller's View. Introd. broken by " coombes " and " deans," the local names for the deep valleys and hollows (see Lewes, Rte. 15). Stunted junipers, occasional patches of box, and hawthorns, sometimes of great age, and strongly marked against the green turf by their clusters of white blossoms or scarlet berries, are dotted here and there over the Downs ; and, as we advance westward, " shaws " and " holts," as the little woods are called, become more and more frequent, nestling in the sheltered coombes, and struggling upward over the hill-side in the most pic- turesque manner. Ash, hazel, and oak are the trees of which they are mostly formed ; and nothing can be more beautiful than their colouring in early autumn, finely contrasted with the bright close turf, and seen under a sky chequered with jiassing cloudlets. At every step the tourist will then be reminded of Copley Fielding, who laboured so long among these downs, and whose drawings record so faithfully every characteristic of their scenery. A marked feature of the chalk hills is the number of " fairy rings," sometimes called " hagtracks," and frequently occurring of very un- usual size. The fairies themselves, although no longer taking much interest in the things of " middle earth," may still be occasionally heard of in the more " elenge " (lonely) places of the Downs. They ai'e locally known, however, as " Pharisees," by which name it is sui)posed they are frequently mentioned in the Bible — a sufficient proof of their actual existence. " We'll sing and dance like Pharisees," is a line which occurs in an old haiwest-supper song, indicating that, however broad phylacteries may have been assumed by the " good neighbours " of Sussex, their general habits continue much the same as those of their brethren elsewhere. Among the many flowers to be met with on the Downs are several species of orchis, and three of the gentians (cam- pestris, amarella, and pneumonauthe), lovely enough, with their bright blue stars, to adorn the couch of Titania herself. Besides the fairy rings, barrows of all dates — Celtic, Eoman, and Saxon— are found scattered over the Downs. The tourist will also remark the T-shaped incisions in the turf; these are traps for the wheatear (Saa-icola (xnanthe), the " English ortolan," as it is called, and not undeservedly. The wheatears are only summer residents, arriving about the middle of March and beginning their retreat in September, at which time they congregate on the Downs in great numbers. They are taken for the table, however, to such an extent that it is said the entire extinction of the bird is at no great distance. A shepherd on Mount Caburn, near Lewes, is said (but long since) to have caught no less than 84 dozen in a single day. The bustard or " wild turkey," which formerly haunted all these Downs in large flocks, has long since disappeared. The last were hunted down with dogs toward the middle of the last century. The South Down shepherds, a very peculiar race, have all but shared the fate of the bustard, although a specimen may still be lighted on occasionally in some solitary part of the hills. They used formerly to live in caves or huts dug into the side of a bank or " link," and lined with heath or straw. " It was in mi/ cave," writes one of them, of whom Sussex. Geology and Traveller s View. xxxiii a very interesting notice will be found in the ' Sussex Arclia^ological Collections,' " that I first read about Moses and his shepherding life, and about David's killing the lion and the bear. Ah ! how glad I felt that we hadn't such wild beastes to frighten, and may be kill, our sheep and us." They were much " tempted " by smugglers. " Time and often have I seen as many as a hundred men a horseback, with led horses, all loaded with tubs of spirits and bags of tobacco." The Hawkhurst gang were the most celebrated and feared. The smugglers, however, have quite disappeared. The trade of " shepherding " still descends in families, and certain names are always associated with the shepherd's crook. The views from the Downs themselves, stretching far over the Weald, or towards the blue border of sea, are among the finest in the county. The artist will also notice the very picturesque character of the villages nestling close under the foot of the hills ; " clusters of lowly habitations, some thatched, some tiled, some abutting the street, some standing angularly towards it, all built of flint or boulders. A barn, a stable, a circular pigeon-house, centuries old, with all its denizens (direct de- scendants of the old manorial pigeons which lived here in the days of the Plantagenets), and an antique gable or two peer out among the tall elms." — M. A. Lower. The entire county of Sussex, but especially the district on the Weald clay, long enjoyed a " bad pre-eminence " on account of its deep roads, the terror of all travellers. " Sowseks full of dirt and myre"' is the character assigned to the county in an old rhyme quoted in Leland's Itinerary, and it continued an ajjpropriate one until very recently. A letter, " by an ingenious gentleman of the Court," gives a curious account of the journey (in 1708) of Prince George of Denmark from Godalming to Petworth, where he met Charles VI. of Spain, who had landed at'Portsmouth. " We set out," says the ingenious gentleman, " by torchlight, and did not get out of the coaches (save only when we were overturned or stuck fast in the mud) till we arrived at our journey's end. 'Twas hard for the Prince to sit 14 hours in the coach that day without eating anything, and passing through the worst ways that ever I saw in my life. We were thrown but once indeed in going, but both our coach, which was the leading, and his Highness's body- coach, would have suftered very often if the nimble boors of Sussex had not frequently poised it or supported it with their shoulders from Godalming almost to Petworth ; and the nearer we ap]iroached the Duke's house the more inaccessible it seemed to be. The last nine miles of the way cost us six hours' time to conquer them ; and indeed we had never done it, if our good master had not several times lent us a pair of horses out of his own coach, whereby we were able to trace out the way for him. They made us believe that the several grounds we crossed and his Grace's park would alleviate the fatigue ; but I pro- test I could hardly perceive any difference between them and the common roads." Nearly fifty years later, Horace Walpole writes to xxxiv Geology and Traveller s View. In trod. JMontatxiie (August, 1749), " If you love good roads, conveniences, good inns, plenty of postilions and horses, be so kind as never to go into Sussex. We thought ourselves in the northest part of England. The Avhole country has a Saxon air, and the inhabitants are savage, as if King George the Second was the first monarch of the East Angles. Coaches grow there no more than balm and spices. We were forced to drop our ]>ost-chaise that resembled nothing so much as a Harlequin's calash, which was occasionally a chaise or a baker's cart. We journeyed over Alpine mountains, drenched in clouds, and thought of Harlequin again when he was driving the chariot of the sua through the morning clouds, and so was glad to hear the aqua vitas man crying a dram. . . . I have set up my staff and finished my pilgrimages for this year. Sussex is a great damper of curiosity," Oxen were generally used to draw carriages of all sorts through these heavy roads, and they may still be seen in different parts of the county employed as "beasts of draught," as well as in ploughing. But for the most part the perils of Sussex travelling have disappeared. Excellent roads, laid with the ironstone " clinkers," have been formed through- out the county ; railways have penetrated it, and are yet extending their arms ; and although every tourist will do well to bear in mind tiie caution of Bailie Nicol Jarvie, that a man must not expect to carry about with liim " the comforts of the Sautmarket," there is, neverthe- less, no important town in the county in which they need be missed, and the large watering-places are of course supplied with all the appli- ances of the metropolis. In tlie less frequented districts rustic inns and harder fare must lie submitted to : but bacon and eggs are never- failing resources, and cleanliness may almost always be confidently reckoned upon. For tlie old Sussex dialect, which still retains the Saxon pronuncia- tion and many Saxon words, consult Cooper's ' Glossary of Sussex ProvinciaUsms.^ The most important collections of works of art in Sussex are at Pet- worth (Rte. 19), wiiere the jiictures are of the highest reputation and interest ; at I'arham (Kte. IH), where besides some good pictures is a noble collection of armour, ancient plate, MSS,, &c. ; and at Goodwood (Rte. Ki). There are a few good portraits at Arundel Castle (Rte. 16); an unrivalled library of MSS. and early printed books, plate, &c., at Ashburnham Place (Rte. 17) ; and some pictures at Knepp Castle (Rte. 14). These three collections, however, are not shown. Introd. ( XXXV ) SKELETON TOURS. No. I.— A TOUR OF SEVEN WEEKS THROUGH KENT AND SUSSEX (EMBRACING ALL THE CHIEF PLACES OF INTEREST). Days. 1. Loudon by the Mid-Kent Eailway and omnibus to Sevenoaks (Kte. 6). In the afternoon see Knole. 2. By road from Seveuoaks to Maidstone, visiting the Moat, Ightham (Ete. G), Malluig Abbey, and AUington Castle (Kte. 5;, on the ■way. 3. See All Saints' Church and College, and the town of Maidstone, in the morning : in the afternoon visit Leeds Castle. 4. By rail to Aylesford. See the town, and visit Kit's -Coity House (Ete. 5). Proceed by rail to Eochester (Ete. 2). 5. See the Castle and Cathedral in the mornuig. Visit Fort Pitt, Chatham, in the afternoon. (If the Dockyard be an object, an entire day should be given to it.) 6. Visit Cobham Hall (,Ete. 2). 7. Sunday at Eochester. 8. By rail to Faversham (Ete. 4). See the Church, and visit Davington Priory. In the afternoon proceed to Canterbury (Ete. 8). 9. See the Cathedral in the morning. In the afternoon, St. Augustine's College and >St. Martin's Church ; and ascend the hill above it for the sake of the general view of Canterbury. 10. See the Dane John and the rest of the cit)- in the morning. In the afternoon visit Chartham and Chilham (Ete. 8). It is best to drive to Chilham, since there is no railway station at Chartham, where the church is of very great interest. Eeturn to Canterburj'. 11. Visit the Churches of Pati-ixbourne and Barfreston (Ete. 1 1). Eeturn to Canterbury. 12. By railway to Minster (Ete. 9). See the Church ; visit the high ground of the Isle of Thanet, and the Church of St. Nicliolas at Wade. Eetvu-n to Minster, and proceed by rail to IMargate (Ete. 9j. 13. See the North Foreland. In the evening by rail to Eamsgate (Ete. 9). 14. Simday at Eamsgate. 15. By rail to Saudwicli (Ete. 10). See the town in the morning ; in the afternoon visit Eichborough. 16. By rail to Deal. Thence by road to Dover, visiting Walmer Castle (Ete. 10) and the Chm-ch of St. Margaret at Clifl'e (Ete. 10) on the way. 17. At Dover (Ete. 7). Sec the Castle and the Western Heights. xxxvi Skeleton Tours. Introd. Pays. 18. By rail to Folkestone (Ete. 7). See the Church. lu the afternoon visit Castle Hill, N. of the town. Ketnrn to Folkestone. 19. From Folkestone either by road or by rail (the Westenlianger Station) to Hythe (Kte. 7). See the ruins of the manor-house at Westen- hanger ; Saltwood Castle ; the Chui-eh at Hythe ; and thence proceed toLymne (Kte. 7). In the evening liy rail to Ashford. 20. From Ashford by road to Craiibrook or Goudhurst (Rte.^7). 21. Sunday either at Cranbrook or Goudhurst. 22. Goudhurst to Tuubridge Wells (Rte. 12). 23. See the Wells, and visit the High Rocks and the Common in the morning ; in tlie afternoon proceed by rail to Tunbridge (Ete. 7). See the Castle there. Return to Tunljridge Wells. 24. Visit Penshurst and Hever (Ete. 7). Return to Tunbridge Wells. 25. At Tunliridge Wells. Visit Frant Cliurch and Bayham Abbey (Ete. 12). 26. At Tunbridge Wells. Visit Mayfield (Ete. 12). 27. By rail to Hastings (Ete. 12). Visit Etcliingham Chm-ch and Battle Abbey (Ete. 12) on tlie way. 28. Sunday at Hastings. 29. At Hastings. See the Castle, and visit the Lover's Leap. 30. At Hastings. Visit Brede Place, Brickwall, and Bodiam Castle (Rte. 12). 31. At Hastings. Visit Winchelsea and Rye (Rte. 13). 32. From Hastings to Pevensey (Rte. 15) ; by tlie Wartling road to Hurstmonceux ; thence to Hailsham. 33. From Hailsham to Eastbourne (Ete. 15). By Beachy Head and along tlie coast to Newhaven (Ete. 15). By railway to Lewes (Ete. 15). 34. At Lewes. See the Castle and town in the morning. In the afternoon walk to Mount Caburu. 35. Sunday at Lewes. 30. Walk to ISIount Hariy. In the afternoon by railway to Brighton (Rte. 14). 37. At Brighton. In the afternoon excui'sion to the Devil's Dyke (Rte. 14). 38. By railway to Shoreham (Rte. 16). See the churches of Old and New Shoreham. Drive to Bramber Castle and Steyning (Rte. 18). Return to the Shoreham Station and proceed to Worthing. 39. From Wortliing to Storrington (Rte. 18) ; visiting Broadwater Church, Sompting Church, and Cissbuiy Hill, on the way (Ete. 16). Sleep at Storrington. 40. Visit Parham and Amberley— castle and church (Ete. 18). Proceed through Arundel Park to Arundel (Rte. 16). 41. See Arundel Castle. By railway to Chichester (Rte. 16). 42. Sunday at Chichester. 43. See Cathedral and city in the morning. In the afternoon excursion to Bosham (Rte. 16). 44. At Cliichester. Excursion to Bosgrove and Goodwood (Rte. 16). 45. At Chichester. Excursion to Kingley Bottom and Bow Hill (Rte. 16). 46. At Chichester. Excursion across the Downs to Bignor (Rte. 16). 47. Chichester to Midhurst (Rte. 19). See Cowdray. Thence to Petworth. 48. See Petworth and Park (Rte. 19). In the evening to Godalming, whence trains proceed to London. Introd. Skeleton Tours. xxxvii No. II.— KENT. Route. Chief Points of Interest [the most remark- able WITH the Asterisk]. Dartford Chm-cli ; Powder and Paper Mills. Exc. up the Darent to LuUingstone. See *Darent Church. Rochester *Cathedral ; *Castle ; *Exc. to Cobham Hall. Chatham *Dockyard. Chatham Lines. Exc. to Isle of Sheppey. *Sheerness Dockyard. Remarkable fossils. Faversham *Church. *Davington Priory. *View from Broughton Hill. Visit Sellmg Church. Canterbury *Cathech'al. *St. Augustuie's College ; *St. Martin's Church. Views of city from Harble- down and opposite hills. Exc. to *Charthain and Chilham. View over the valley of the Stour. Exc. to Patrixbourne and *Barfrestoa Churches. HpRNE Bay Heme Chui-ch. *Eeculver. Ramsgate *View from high ground of Thanet. *Minster Church. *Chiirch of St. Nicholas at Wade. Osengall Hill. Margate *North Foreland. Sandwich *St. Clement's Church. *Richborough. Deal Sandown Castle. *Walmer Castle. *North- bourne Church. Dover *Castle. nVestem Heights. Town Hall. *Exc. to Church of St. Margaret's at Clitfe. *St. Margaret's Bay. View from the Prospect Tower m Waldershare Park. St. Radigund's Abbey. *Shakspeare's Clitf. Folkestone *Church. *View from Castle BUU. Hythe *Church. *Saltwood Castle. *'Westenhanger. *LjTniie. Exc. to Eomney Marsh. AsHFORD Chm-ch. Exc. to Wye. Exc. to Eastwell and Charing. *View from Eastwell Park. *Stained glass in Westwell Church. Remains of Archiepiscopal Palace at Charing. Tenterden Church. Cranbrook Church. Sissinghurst. GouDHURST *View from Church-tower. Kilndown Chapel. TuNBRiDGE Wells . . . . Views from Common. *High Rocks ; Toad Rock. View from Frant Church ; *Bayham Abbey ; *Mayfield ; Buckhurst ; Ashdo^Ti Forest. TuNBRiDGE *Castle. Manufacture of Tuubridgeware. Visit to *Penshurst and *Hever Castle. Maidstone *A11 Saints Church. *College. Excursions to *Allington Castle ; Mailing Abbey ; Ad- dington ; *Leeds Castle ; Aylesford ; *Kit's Coity House. *View from Blue-Bell Hill. "^Stained glass in Nettlested Church. XXXYlll Skeleton Tours. Tntrod. Route. Chief Points of Interest. Sevenoaks *Knole Park. *The Moat House, Ightham. *Clievening. Westerliam. Bromley View from Holwoorl Hill. Chisleliiirst, Church and Green. *Exc. by Valley of Cray to Crayford. Woolwich *Arseual. *Dockyard. View from Shooters Hill. *Eltham. Xo. III.— SUSSEX. TunbridCtE Wells . . . . CSee Kent). EtchinCtHam *Church. Hastings *Views from Cliffs. Exc. to *Crowhurst. Exc. to *Brede, Blackwall, and Bodiam Castle. WiNCHELSEA *St. Thouias's Church. The Friars. Rye *Church. Ypres Tower. Battle *Abbey. Ashburnham Place and Church. *Exc. along the Forest Kidge to East Grin- stead. *View from the Heathfield Tower, and *from the Cross-in-Hand luu. Kother- field Church. *Crowborough Beacon. *Ash- down Forest. East Grinstead .. .. Church. *Sackville College. * Worth Church. Balcombe Tilgate Forest. Cuckfield Church. *Cuckfield Place. *Lindfield Church. Church of Horsted Keynes. Hassock's Gate Station *Ditchling Beacon. Plumpton Place. *Street Place. Hurstpierpoint. St. John's College. *Clayton Chui-ch. Brighton St. Nicholas' Church. Pavilion. Pier. *Exc. to Devil's Dyke. Preston. Lewes *Castle. Euins of Priory. *The Coombe. *]Moimt Caburn. *Mount Harry. Newhaven Church. Seaford. *01d Parsonage at West Dean. Pevensey *Castle. *Church. Hailsham Church. *Exc. to Hurstmonceux Castle. Eastbourne *Chiu'ch. *Beachy Head. Shoreham *Churche3 of Old and New Shoreham. Exc. to Bramber. *Steyniug ChiU'ch. *Wiston House. *Chanctonbiuy Ring. Worthing *Sompting Church. *Broad water Church. " Ciss- bury Hill. West Tarring. The Miller's Tomb. Arundel *Castle and Park. *Church. Exc. to *Am- berley. Church and Castle, and *Parham. *Climping Church. Bognor Rocks. *Hushing Well, Pagham. Pagham Chui'ch. Chichester "Cathedral. *Priory Church, now the Town- hall. *St. Mary's Hospital. Excursions to *Bosham, *Goodwood, *Boxgrove, *Kingley Bottom. Introd. Skeleton Tours. xxxix Route. Chief Points of Interest. MiDHURST Church. *Ruins of Cowdray, and Park. Exe. to Shulbrede Priory. Petworth *House and Pictures. Church. *Exc. to remams of Eoman viUa at Bignor. BiLLiNGHDRST Church. Horsham *Chureh. Denne Park. *St. Leonard's Forest. Knepi) Castle. No. IV.— AN ARTISTIC AND ANTIQUARIAN TOUR. KENT.— Rochester Cathedral and Castle. Pictures at Cobham. Maid- stone Church and College. Leeds Castle. Faversham Church. Davington Priory. Canterbury Cathedral and St. Augustine's College. Churches of Minster and St. Nicholas at Wade. Roman remains at Reculver and Rich- borough. Town of Sandwich. Church of St. Margaret's at Cliflc. Bar- freston and Patrixbourn Churches. Dover Castle. Hythe Church. Salt- wood Castle. Ruins of the Manor-house at Westenhanger. Roman remains at Lymne. Tunbridge Castle. Penshurst. Hever. Pictures at Knole. The Moat House, Ightham. Sore Place, Plaxtole. SUSSEX.— Remains of Archbishop's Palace at Mayfield. Battle Abbey. Monuments in St. Thomas's Church, Winchelsea. (Collections at Ashburu- ham Place, not at present shown.) Hastings Castle. Pevensey (Roman walls of Anderida and Mediaeval Castle). Hurstmonceux Castle. Lewes Castle. Chm-ches of Old and New Shoreham. Sompting Church. Broad- water Church. StejTiing Chui'ch. Amudel Castle (pictures in the castle not shown). Amberlej' Church and Castle. Parham, pictures, armour, and various collections. Climping Chmx'li. Chichester Cathedi'al. Bosham Church. Goodwood (pictures atj. Boxgrove Church. Up-park (pictures, china, &c.). Ruins of Cowckay. Petworth (pictures and scidpture). No. v. — A PEDESTRIAN TOUR ALONG THE NORTH AND SOUTH DOWNS. (^For 2^ortion!i of the following Tour — ivlucli embraces tJte most pictur- esque portions of Surrey and Sussex, and will he found full of interest — see the Handbook of Surrey and Hants.^ Days. 1. From Reigate along the Chalk Downs by Boxhill to Dorking. 2. Visit Leith Hill ; and proceed by Shecre and Gomshall to Guildford. 3. By the Hog s Back to Famham (visit Losely and Compton by the way). 4. Across Hindhead and by the Devil's Punchbowl to Headley ; tlience through Woolmer Forest to Selborne. 5. By Hawskley to Petersfield. 6. Through the Forest of Bere to Rowland's Castle. 7. By Stanstead Park and Bowhill to Cocking. 8. Along tlie Downs to Bignor. See the Roman villa. Sleep at the White Horse, Sutton. 9. Along the Downs by Amberley to Storrington. Visit Parliam. 10. By Chanctonbury Ring, Stcyning, and the Devil's Dyke, to Poynings. 11. Along the Downs (over Mount HarryJ to Lewes. VI. Lewes to Beachy Head and Eastbourne. HANDBOOK FOR KENT AND SUSSEX. SECTION I. KENT. ROUTES. »* Tbo names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the j)tof« are described. ItOUTE ]'AGE 1 The Thames — London by Greemcich, Woolwich, and Graveseml, to IMargate 2 London to Chatham (Eail) o The Ide of Shtppexj . 4 Chatliam to Canterbiu-y 5 Rocli ester to Maidstone . G London by Beclienham and Bromley to Secenoahs ; Knole : Westerham . IIOUTK 7 I'Af ; F, Eeigate 1 19 50 Gl 73 96 by Godstone, Hever, Peiishurst, Tunhridge, Ash- ford, and Folkestone to Dover Asliford to Canterhury . Canterbiu-y to Mar gate 10 Cantcrbm-y, by Deal Wal liter, to Dover . 11 Canterbnrj-, by Barham Doum, to Dover 8 9 and ll.-) 152 18S 202 217 ROUTE 1. THE THAMES— LONDON TO MARGATE. Steamers leave daily for Margate from the London Bridge Wharf. For Gravesend, steamers leave the Hungerford Pier several times a day, touching at Erith and Eosherville Gardens. Passengers may go by rail from the Feiichurch Street Sta- tion to Blackwall, where the Graves- end steamers also toucli. The time of passage is thereby shortened about 1 hour. For Greemnich, Blaelncall, and Woolwich, steamers leave Tfunger- ford Pier every 20 minutes, touching \_Kr7d ((• Sussex.} at the other jiiers in their way. Deptford and Greemeirh may also be readied by the direct railway, from Loudon Bridge Station. The time of transit is about 2^ hrs. to Gravesend, 6 hrs. to Heme Bay, and 7 to Margate. The approach to London by tlie river is the only one wliicli at once im- presses a stranger with the grandeur and extent of the niefroijolis. Every visitor should make a point of pass- ing in a steamer at least from London to Greenwich. The wliole of the Tliames, below the bridges, is included in the I'ort of London, wliich extends seaward a Route 1. — London to Margate. Sect. I. distance of 4 m. from the N. Fore- land lighthouse. As fur as the montli of the IMedway the Lord Mayor is 'V Conservator of the River" — having imder him a deputy or water-bailiff. The Admiralty claims a conciuTent jurisdiction ; and the corporation of Trinity House also possesses impor- tant rights. By these several bodies the atfairs of the river, and of the diflferent stations on it connected Avith the Koyal Navy, are dulv regu- lated. The tide flows nearly as high as Richmond ; for a greater distance (00 m.) than is found in any other river in Europe. Its average velocity is 20 ra. an hour. That of the sti'eam itself is between 3 and 4 m. an hoiu-^ a medium, however, deduced from great inequalities arising from dif- ferent soiu-ces. The water is some- times brackish at London Bridge ; at Gravesend it is salt but tm-bid — " nevertheless it is not so impure as the waters of the Ganges and other celebrated rivers " — ( Cruden's Gravesend) — a small consolation to those who have to use it. ■No other river in the world has such an amount of ti'affic. " Thames' fair bosom is the world's exchange." This ceaseless passage of vessels, together with the increase of London itself, have not a little altered the appearance of the river since Spenser wi'ote of it as the " silver-streaming Thames" — or since Harrison (1580j described the " fat and sweete sal- mons" daily taken in it. Its only jire- sent contributions to the table are flounders, eels, and whitebait — the last sometimes untruly asserted to be peculiar to the Thames. There are sixteen bends or reaches on the river between London and Gravesend. This transit was for- merly know as " the Long Feriy," and the right of conveying passengers on it was at a very early period at- tached to the manors of Milton and Gravesend. These were bound to prepare boats for the passage, called " Tilt-boats," didy supplied with trusses of clean straw for the repose of the passengers. The journey in these boats was long and sometimes dangerous ; and De Foe has given a graphic picture of the terrors of the river in a storm, when the passenger was glad to be set on shore at Black- wall (N. and Q. vol. ii. 209). The last of these sailing boats was with- drawn in 1834, after a vain straggle against the steamers, which com- menced running between London and Gravesend, Jan. 23, 1815. The voyage up and down the Thames, especially at the tm-n of the tide, presents a sight which a foreigner cannot look iipon but with astonishment, or an Englishman with- out pride. It is very certain that no other city in Europe or in the world can jiresent sucii a spectacle as the haven of London. At first the steam-vessel slowly and with dif- ficulty makes its way, stopping every few minutes until some unwieldy laden barge, or deeply freighted merchantman bound for the docks, can be moved aside or avoided so as to allow the vessel to pass. At times, a whole group of ships of dif- ferent sizes ami classes may be seen as it were entangled and obsti'uctmg the passage. It is wonderful with what ease they disentangle them- selves. The coolness and precision with which the captain of the steamer, pacing the bridge between the paddle-boxes, delivers his orders unaffected by the tumult and dis- order around, is especially worthy of notice. Remark also the order in which the shipping is moored on either side of the river, in compact squares or tiers, leaving ample s^^ace in the centre for passage up and down. The river for 4 m. below London Bridge is called The Fool, and con- tains such of the shipping as does not lie in the several docks. The speed of all steamers is restricted to 5 m. an hour in passing through this crowded part of the river. Leaving the Hungerford Pier, the Kent. Route 1. — The Thames. cliief points to be noticed arc — Somerset House and the Temple Gardens on the 1. bank ; beyond rises the Dome of St. Paul's. St. Saviour's Church, rt., is the next point ; and below Lonilon Bridge the Custoin-house and the Tower, ]., -with St. Katherine's and the Lon- don Docks adjoining. The forests of masts which rise here belong to merchantmen from all parts of the world ; a class as numerous and im- portant as any being the colliers. In order to construct St. Kathe- rine's Doclis, the entire parish of St. Katherine's, with its 1250 houses, was excavated and carried away : the earth to raise the low ground about Belgrave Square ; the college to be refounded in the Regent's Park. The Docks, which were opened in 1828, cost nearly two mil- lions, cover 24 acres, and accommo- date annually about 1400 ships, of which from 140 to 150 can lie here conveniently at once. Very near to, and below these, are the London Docks ; their groves of masts being also visible from the river. These are of older date, cover 30 acres, and will contain about 500 sail. Off the entrance is moored the Dissenting floating chapel known as Noah's Ark. Execution Dork, "Wapping, 1., was the usual plage at which pirates and persons committing capital crimes at sea were hung at low-water mark, " there to remain till three tides had overflowed them.' To this neigh- bourhood, according to De Foe, many lied during the Plagtie, in hopes that the smell of tar from the shipping would prove an antidote. Off Potherhithe Church, rt., the Thames Tunnel is crossed. Beyond are the Grand Surrey Docks. Cuckold's Foint, where the river bends into the Limohouse Reach, was formerly distinguished by a tall pole witli a pair of horns on the top. The land from Charlton, near Wool- wich, as far as this point, was, says tradition, granted by King John to a miller who had a " fair wife," and in whose house the king was unseason- ably discovered. The miller was de- sired to " clear his eyes " and claim as much land as he could see on the Charlton side of the Thames. He did so, and saw as far as this point ; having a grant of the land, on con- dition of Avalking once a year to Cuckold's Point with a pair of horns on his head. Nearly opposite is the entrance to the ir. India Docks, Avhich ex- tend across the base of the flat marshy peninsula called the Isle of Dogs. They were constructed in 1800 at a cost of 1,200,000^. Their water area alone is above 54 acres, and they acconnnodate about 500 ships. The Citij Canal, now forming part of these docks, was constructed in order to spare vessels the necessity of making a circuit of If m. round the peninsula. The scheme how- ever proved a failure, and it was sold to the W. India Dock Company, who use it as a timber-dock. Passing into Limeliouse Reach, rt. are seen the Commercicd Docks, ori- ginally consti-ucted for the Green- land trade. The largest of these docks is supposed to have been the entrance of a canal or trench, dug by Canute the Dane in lOlG, during- tlie blockade of London, for the passage of his fleet from here tO' Vauxhall, in order to avoid London Bridge. Here the oil is boiled during the season when the whale- fishers bring home their cargoes. In this read), at Deptford, is the ter- mination of the Pool. EaiTs Sluice, a little below the Commercial Docks, divides the comi- ties of Surrey and Kent. For ample notices of all the pjlaces hitherto mentioned, see Cun- ningham's Ilandhook of London. The little river Ivavensbourne, after its junction with the Lee at Lewisham, enters the Thames here at Deptford Creek. Immediately beyond, 4 m. from London Bridge, is Deptford, early a place of rendez- b2 Route 1. — Deptford. Sect. I. vous for shipping, owing to its creek of deep water {depc ford) — wliere the Eavensbourne joins tlie Thames — and its short distance from London. Henry VIII. granted leave to the " shipmen and mariners of England" to found in the parish clmreh of Deptford a guild or brotherhood of the Holy Trinity and St. Clement, with authority to make by-laws among themselves for the advantage and increase of the shipping. Out of this brotherhood lias groAvn, with some additional privileges, the pre- sent Trlintij BoariJ. Their meetings were formerly held in an ancient hall here, which was taken down about 1787, when a new building was erected on Tower Hill. Two hospitals still remain at Deptford connected with the Trinity Board, the first dating from the reign of Henry VIII., but rebuilt in 1788 ; the second built toward the end of the 17th cent. Pilots and ship- masters are the pensioners of both. A " Storehouse " was first estab- lished at Deptford by Henry YIII. about 1513, and it rapidly became the most important of the royal dockyards. The establishment here, however, has been greatly reduced ; and the " Czar of Muscovy " would now find more desirable schools of naval architecture than Deptford. King Henry's building now forms part of a rpiadrangle, additions having been made at different periods. It is not seen from the river. The VldnaUiiui Offices, a long range of brick buildings seen W. of the Docks, are still of considerable importance. At the season when oxen are killed for salting, vast herds of cattle are slaughtered here in a manner combining the utmost skill and expedition. The herd, being driven into the pens, are singled out by men stationed on the palisades ; one of whom at a signal drops down on the animal, seizing it by tile horns, while another fells it with one blow of his hatchet. The process of hiscuH-halcing here is a sin- gular display of expert manipulation. The dough, made only of the very finest flour, having been kneaded by a steam-engine, which also cuts it to the shape and size of a biscuit, is conveyed into the bakehouse, where a man stationed at one side of the apartment pitches the cakes into the oven at a distance of some yards in such a manner that they fall regularly overlapping one another, and tliis with the greatest ra- pidity. Some portion of the Victualling Yard covers the site of the grounds and "most boscaresrpie gardens," as they are called by Koger North, at- tached to Sayes Court, the well- known residence of John Evelyn ; the hedges in whose garden' here, e3:rept those of holly, which could protect themselves (ilium nemo im- punc lacessit, says Evelyn), were ruined by Peter the Great, who amused himself by driving through them in a wheelbarrow, during his residence at Sayes Court in 1698. whilst studying and working in the dockyard. The house itself has en- tirelj' disappeared, and the site is now occupied by the parish work- house. Eveljni died here in 1706 ; and much of the surrounding pro- perty still remains in the possession of his descendants. Sayes Com-t was at an early period the residence of a family of the same name ; and it will be remembered as the scene of some fine chapters in 'Kenilworth.' The two Deptford churches arc modern and uninteresting. In that of St. Nicholas, remodelled in 1716, is the momunent of Peter Pett (d. 1652), one of the famous shipbuild- ers — "Justus sane vir, et sui sscculi Noah"— and the inventor of the frigate : " illud eximium et novum navigii ornamentum quod nostri fri- gatum mincupant, hostibus formidu- iosum, suis utilissinuun atque tu- tissimum, primus invenit." The name and something more, however. Kent. Route 1. — Greenwich. were borrowed from the Venetians, who had oidy used tliein as ships of commerce. The English were the lirst to convert them to warlike pur- poses. It was here, Ajjril 4, 1581, that Queen Elizabeth visited the " Golden Hind," tlie ship in whicli Drake liad " compassed the world." Its hull was covered with barnacles (Lepas aiiatifera) ; and Camden {Brituiinia) alludes to its condition, as a proof that " small birds have been produced from old rotten hulls of ships," Her Majesty dined on board ; and after dinner knighted Sir Francis. The ship was afterwards laid up in the yard here, and the cabin converted into a banqueting house for the accommodation of London visitors. After it was broken up, a chair made of the wood was presented to the I 'iii versify of Oxford. Below Deptford, and moored near the rt. bank of the river, is the Dreadnought, 98 guns, now a mere hulk, and fitted up as a hospital ship. She captured the 8an Juan, a Spanisli three-decker, at Trafalgar. The Isle of Dihjs, opposite Dept- ford, is said to have been so named from a dog whose fidelity led to the discovery of its master's mm-dered body in the marsh here. There are some traces, toward tlic centre, of a rude building called " King John's Dog Kennel ;" and another though scarcely more probable tradition d..- rives the name from the approi)ria- tion of the ground to the king's hounds dm'ing the hunting visits of the earlier sovereigns to Greenwich and Blackheath. 13axter gives it a mnch earlier origin, and thinks it the Comiennos of Ptolemy : Ctniiiiis (Celt.); Canuiu insuld. Since 1830 numerous iron-shipbuilders' yards, chemical works, &c., have sprung up here. The remaining pasturage is said to be unusually rich. Below De|)ti'urd remark the very fine view of Greeuicicli, which opens as you ajipi'oach the hospital. 5 m. Greemcicli (Grcnawic — the " Greentown ") — always a hill of foliage rising above the river, and a favourite station of the old Northmen, whose "host" was frequently en- camped on the high ground here — was given with Deptford and Lewis- ham to the Aljbey of St, Peter at Ghent ( circ. 900 ), by Eltruda, niece of King Alfred, and wife of Earl Baldwin of Flanders. The Ghent Abbey held it till the supi^ression of alien prio- ries by Henry V., wdien Greenwich was transferred to the Carthusians of Shene, who held it until the dis- solution. There were some reserva- tions however ; and on a part of the land thus retained the first royal abode here was built by Duke Hiunphrey of Gloucester, uncle to Henry VI., who called his palace " Placentia " or the " INIanor of I'leasaimce." He also enclosed the park, and built a tower on the site of the present Observatory. Edward IV. enlarged the palace, and it con- tinued a favomite royal residence until the commencement of the Civil War. Henry VIII. was born here in 1491 , and was baptized in the parish ch. by Fox, then Bp. of Exeter. Hero he married Catherme of Arragou, and Anne of Cleves ; and amongst other solemn festivities during his reign, the first " disguising after the mannei- of Italic, called a nias';e, a thing not seen afore in Englande ' (Hall), took place here in 1.513 "on the dale of the Epiphanie at night." Edward VI. died here, Jidy G, 1553; Mary was born at Greenwich, 1515 ; and here, " Pleased with the seat that gave Eliza birth, We kneel and kiss the conseciatcd earth." Elizabeth wtis born in the old l)alace, Sept. 7, 1533. The famous christening scene, which we can only picture to ourselves witli Sliak- speare's accompaniments, took place in the "Friar's church" here; and the house of "Placentia" was ho- 6 Route 1. — Greema'ch Hospital. Sect. I. iiourcil by her frequent residence tliroiighout her reign. Here, June, 1588, the deputies from the United Provinces — " They whom the rod of Alva bruised, AVhose crown a British queen refused " — hiid the sovereignty of their country at the feet of Elizabeth. Here it was that Hentzner, in 1 598, saw her in all her bravery, in her " dress of white silk, with pearls as large as beans," a small crown on her red hair, and her long train ujiborne by a marchioness. Here Sir Walter has placed the scene of Ealeigh's first iuterxiew, when his muddied cloak laid the fomidation of his sub- sequent high climbing ; and from the windows of her palace here the Queen watched the jiinnaces of her adventurous seamen, as they floated by on their way to fresh discoveries in the "new-found world." James I. began a new building at Greenwich called the "Queens Hotise," and intended for Anne of Deiunark, which Henrietta Maria em- ployed Inigo Jones to finish. After the restoration, Charles II. com- menced a new palace, and formed the l^ark. Mr. Pepys looked anxiously at the designs for the " very great house," " which will cost a great deal of money ;" but only that part was completed which now forms a por- tion of the W. wing of tlie Hos- pital. This new palace was rarely inha- bited ; and after the naval engage- ment of La Hogue in 1G92, when considerable difficulty was experi- enced in providing for the care of the wounded, Queen Mary an- nounced her intention of converting it into a hospital. Not much was done, however, until after her death in 1G9I: ; when the king, anxious to carry out her designs, ordered plans for additif)nal buildings to be j^re- pared by Sir Christoplier Wren, and tlie first stone of the new portion was laid by Jolm Evelyn (then Treasurer of the Navy), June 30, 1096, " precisel}' at five o'clock in the evening, Mr. Flamstead observ- ing the punctual time by instrument." The Hospital was opened in Jan. 1705, when 42 seamen were ad- mitted. There was to have been a statue of the queen in the inner court ; but that part of the plan was never carried out ; " and few of those who now gaze on the noblest of European hospitals are aware that it is a memorial of the virtues of the good Queen Mary, of the love and sorrovr of William, and of the great victory of La Hogue." {Macauhdj, iv. 536.) The hospital, as it now exists, is superior in its size and architecture to any palace jjossessed by the sove- reign of this coimtry exccjjt Windsor ; and the foreigner approaching Lon- don by the river can hardly i'ail to be struck with admiration when he learns the destination of this noble building ; occupjing, as it does, a site so thoroughly appropriate, where the veteran sailors of England, whilst enjoying a well-earned repose, are still in their element, among shijD- ping constantly passing and rejiass- ing before them. " Hie requies senectee, Ilic modus lasso maris et viarum Militiajque." Passengers are landed from the steamers immediately in front of the hospital, which is open freely to the puldic on Mon. and Fri. On other dtiys a small fixed stim is paid for admission to the hall and chapel. Before leaving the pier, observe, in front of the 1. wing of the Hosjiital, the memorial to Ijieut. Bellot, of the French Imp. Navy — the Avell- known Arctic navigator. It is an obelisk of red granite inscribed with his name alone, and was erected by public subscription. A noble terrace, 860 ft. long, with a central flight of steps opening to the water, extends in front of the Hospital, which consists of four Kent. Route 1. — Greenwich Hospital. distinct portions — King Charles's (N.W.), Queen Auue's (N-E.), King William's (S.W.), and Queen Marj-'s (S.E.) King Charles's and Queen Anne's buildings immediately face the river, and are divided by the great square, beyond which are seen the hall and chapel witli their colon- nades. At the back is the " Queen's House," built by Inigo Jones for Henrietta Maria ; and beyond again rise the green elms of the Parir, clustering about the royal Observa- tory. This view — -of its kind almost unequalled — • should be carefully watched for. It is, perhaps, best seen from the river, but should be also noticed from the pier. The statue of George II. in the centre of the square is by Rysbrach, and is sculp- tured from a block of white marble taken at sea from the French by >Sir George Rooke. The eastern side only of King Charles's building formed a part of his uniinished palace ; the designs for the rest of this portion were supplied by Wren. The go- vernor and other officers have their apartments here ; and there are wards for 523 men — one of which is always ojjen for public inspection. Queen Anne's building, on the oppo- site side of the square, contains wards for 424 pensioners. King William's quarter formed part of Wren's designs, and contains what is now known as the Painted Hall, originally intended for the common dining-hall of the Hospital. Some of the external decorations are due to Sir Jolm Vanbrugh. The alto-relievo on the E. side is by West, and professes to be an emble- matical representation of the Deatli of Nelson. In this quarter are wards for .505 pensioners, a dining- hall, and a kitchen. Queen Mary's building, opposite, contains the chay^el, and wards for 1081 pensioners. Tlie entire number of pensioners wlio can be received here is 2710. All must be seamen or royal marines. They are entirely provided for, and receive in addition a small money allowance weekly. The funds from which the Hospital is supported consist of estates in Nortlnnnbcrland and Durham, being the forfeited lands of the Earls of Derwentwatcr, annexed to the hos- pital in 1752 ; property in Greenwich ; and the interest of funded capital, including a sum of G472Z., the i^ro- perty of Kid the pirate, given by Queen Anne in 17U5 — all of Avhich has been granted by royal and other benefactors. The present expcndi- tiu-e is about 1.3(),000L per annmn, and the entire nmnber of i^ensioners 24G0. Tlie principal sights in the hospi- tal, are the Painted Hall, the Chapel, and the Durmitory. The rainted Hall (by Wren, 1703, lOG ft. by 56, and 50 ft. high) con- tains a very interesting collection of naval pictures, chiefly the gift of George IV. from the royal collections, which have been arranged here since 1 825. In the vestibule are casts from the statues in St. Paul s of Howe (Flaxman), St. Vincent (Baily), Duncan (Westmacott), and Nelson {Flaxman). The flags above them were taken by these commanders from the enemy at sea. The ceiling of the Great Hall, together with the paintings in the upper division, are tlie work of Sir .James Thornhill, who was engaged here from 1708 to 1727. In the centre of the ceiling are William and Mary, waited upon by the cardinal virtues : the rest is a mass of allegory which the visitor will hardly care to decipher. The general effect is rich, and har- monises well with the architecture. Remark that the inscription running round the frieze contains Queen Mary's name alone, as that of the foundress of the hospital. In this hall the body of Nelson lay in state for tliree days before it was removed by water to the Admiralty. Of the pictures, the most interest- in"; are — 8 Iloute 1. — Greenwich Hospital. Sect. I, In the Vestibule: Vasco di Get ma, from au original at Lisbon ; and Colunihus, from a portrait by Par- megiano at Naples. In the Great Ilall (the numbers correspond to those on the pictures) : 4, Charles Howard, Earl of Notting- ham, Lord High Admiral in com- mand at tlie defeat of tlie Armada : Zucchero. 5, Sir Cliristopher Myngs ; 6, Sir Tliomas Tyddiman; 7, Sir John Harman ; 13, Lord Sandwich ; 40, Sir Joseph Jordan; 41, Sir William Berkley; 43, Sh Thomas Allen ; 8(J, Duke of Albemarle ; 90, Sir Jeremy Smith ; 92, Sir William Penu ; 95, Sir George Askue : all half-lengths, by Sir Peter Lely, and all engaged in the action with the Dutch fleet, June 1st, 1666. Mr. Pepys tims refers to these pictures, which were given to the hospital bv George IV. :— " To Mr. Lilly's, the painter's, and there saw the heads — some finished, and all begun — of the llagg-men in the late great fight with the Duke of York against the Dutch. Tlie Duke of York hath these done to hang in his cliamber, and very finely they are done indeed. " 11, Robert Blake, comiiosition by Brigrjs, li.A. 15, Sir Cloudesley Shovel, lost off the Scilly Islands, 1707, Michael Dald. 16, Admiral Chiu-chill, Kueller. 20, Lord Hugli Seymour, Hoppner. 30, Admiral Benbow, Kueller. 31,- Alexander Hood, 1st Lord Bridport, Reynolds. 32, Sir William Whetsone, Dald. 34, E. Russell, Earl of Orford, Bockmaii. 35, Sir George Rooke, JJaJol. 36, Sir Charles Hardy, Bom- neij. 37, Sir Edward Hughes, Reij- nolds. 42, Prince George of Denmark, Lord Higli Admhal (Est-il possible ? Macaulay, ii.), Kneller. 44, Captain Cook, Dance. 49, King William IV., Morton. 53, Sir John Muuden, Dald. 54, Admiral Kempcufeldt, lost in the Royal George, Kettle. 55, Sir Thomas Dilkes, Kneller. 61, Ad- miral Thomas Smith, called " Tom of Ten Tliousand," II. Wilson. 62, 1st Lord Exmouth, Oa-en. 67, Sir Tliomas Hardy, Evans. 73, Lord CoUingwood, Howard. 87, Alger- non Percy, 10th Earl of Northum- berland, the elder Stotie, after Vandyke. 89, Admiral Gell, Reynolds. Beside the portraits, remark — 10, Defeat of the Armada, Loutherhenj. 22, George HI. presenting a sword to Earl Howe, on board the Queen Charlotte, at Spithead, Briggs. 21, Action of 1st June, 1794, Loutherberg. 27, Admiral Duncan receiving the sword of the Dutch Admiral De Winter, 1797, Drummond. 45, Death of Cook, Zoffany. 63, Bombardment of Algiers, Chambers. 64 and 81, Six small pictiu-es representing the loss of the "Luxemburgh" galley, burnt in her passage from Jamaica to London in 1727 ; a part of tlie crew, 23 in number, escaped iu the long boat, and were at sea from June 25 to July 7 without food or drink : 6 only siu-vived. 68, Death of Nelson. Devis. 72, Tlie Battle of Trafalgar, Turner ; pn'eseiited by George IV. in 1829 from St. James's Palace. 77, Victory of Aboukir Bay, G. Arnold. 82, Nelson boarding the San Josef, in the action off Cape St. Vincent, G. Jones. 88, Victory of Quiberou Bay, Nov. 20, 1759, Dominic Serves. Many of the other pictures, al- though copies, are of much interest, and deserve examination. The walls and ceiling of the Upper null are the work of Sir James Thornhill. The subjects on the walls are the two landings fatal to the Stuarts ; that of William III. at Torbay, and the arrival of George I. at Greenwich. From the ceiling look down Queen Anne and Prince George of Denmark. In glass-cases here are preserved the coat and waistcoat worn by Nelson at Trafalgar, and the coat worn by him at the battle of the Nile iu 1798. Here are also the relics of Sir John Franklin's Polar Expedi- tion, recovered by Dr. Rae in 1854. Among the models displayed here Kent. Route 1. — Greenwich Park. are those of the " Victoiy," lost in 1744 — of the "Centurion," which accompanied Anson in his voyage round the workl— and of the " Eoyal George," lost at Spitliead 1782. On the model of a ships capstan is placed an astrolabe which belonged to Sir Francis Drake. In a small room beyond are a series of pictures illustrating the life of Nelson, most of which are by Westall. The unfinished portrait of Nelson, by Abbot (1798), is interest- ing. Remark also a view of Green- wich Hospital as it was in 1690. The C7ta/)e/, in Queen Mary's build- ings, was ail-but burnt down in 1779. It was then restored, fi'om designs by Athenian Stuart; and in 1851 was again " renovated." The statues in the vestibule are by West. Within the chapel, the designs over the lower windows are by l3e Bruyn, and illus- trate the life of Christ. The altar- piece — St. Pauls Sliipwreck at Me- lita— is by West, who also supi^lied the designs for the pulpit and read- ing-desk. On eitlier side of the portal screen, which is very elabo- rate, are memorials of Sir Eichard Keats and Sir Thomas Hardy, both governors of the hospital. The bust of Keats ( Chant rey) was given by William IV. as a lucmorial " of his old shipmate and watchmate ;" tliat of Hardy is by Behnes. The Queens House, called bv Anne of Denmark the "House of Delight," at the back of the main courts, and seen from the river below the Ob- servatory, has liecn appropriated, with some additional buildings, to the children .if seamen who have served in the navy. There are three distinct scliools: — 1. for 400 sons of officers ; 2. 400 sons of sea- men or marines ; 3. 200 guis : all fed, clothed, and educated. In the cemetery attached to the hospital is interred (1774) Nich. Tindal, the translator and continua- tor of Kapiii's Hist, of England, and one of the cliaplains. The Donnitonj usually visited is that in K. Charles's wing, and was originally intended for the library of the palace. It is a long room fitted up with small chambers, in which the pensioners are quartered. The pensioners' diuing-lialls(, which may be walked through) are below the Painted Hall. In K. Cliarlcs's building there is a library for their use. The stone globes, celestial and terrestrial, at the W. entrance to the hospital, should be noticed. They are C ft. in diameter, and are fixed in a position according with the latitude. Behind the Hospital stretches up the ancient Park of the palace, con- taining about 188 acres. It was walled round with Inick ]iy James I., and in tlie reign of Charles II. was laid out by the celebrated Le Notre, who then presided over the gardens of Versailles. The scenery is of extreme beauty, the finest points being the high ground of the Ob- servatory, whence is a superb view over London and the Thames ; and an eminence near the eastern border of the Park, known as " One Tree Hill," from whence the view is said to extend to Windsor Castle. " Would you believe," writes Walpole to Bcutley (July, 1755), "I liad never been in Greenwich Park V I never had, and am transported. Even the glories of Richmond and Twickenliam hide their diminished heads." The only present requisite seems to be a better turf. No won- der that Queen Elizabeth " used to walke much in the parkc, and great walkes out of the parke and about the parke." Much of tlie tragedy of ' Irene " was com- posed by Johnson, who had lodg- ings in Church Street in 1 737, wlulst pacing its avenues. Tlie elms, says Evelyn, were planted in 1GG4 ; the Spanisli chesnuts, although arranged in the same regular avenues, are apparently of greater age. Green- wich fair, tiunous for its somewhat rough liumours, was, until 185(.!, held b3 10 Route 1. — Greenwich — Observatory. Sect. I. in the park during "Whitsiin week. It is now abolislied. The average num- ber of visitors to tlie Park on fine Suuda3-s is 80,000. The Observatory was erected in 1675, on the site of Duke Hiunplirey's Tower, called 3L>e//ei(r,— said by Hentzner to have been the original of the Tower of Miraflores, figuring in ' Amadis de Gaul.' The remains of this romantic tower were taken down by Charles II., and Flamstead was appointed the first astronomer- royal for the new Observatory. A series of eminent names lias fol- lowed his, including those of Ilalley, Bradley, Maskelyne, and of the present Astronomer Eoyal, Airy. The Ob- servatory is not open to the public ; and the "portions of the building in sight are little used. In the two tiurets on the leads, however, active operations are constantly in progress. In one is a contrivance for hourly registering the force and direction of the wind ; and another for marking in decimals of an inch the quantity of rain that falls. In the eastern turret is tlie time-ball, 5 feet across, and stuft'ed with cork, which descends regularly at 1 P.M., marking the time as truly as the sun. " All the ships in the river watch it to set their chrono- meters by before they sail ; and all the railway clocks and trains over the kingdom are arranged punc- tually by its indications. " In the building is a chronometer-room, to which the chief watchmakers in London send their choicest instru- ments for examination and trial. Besides the Greenwich ' Tables of the Moon,' which have a world-wide reputation, a course of magnetic and meteorological observations is pur- sued here, of the highest interest and importance (' Household Words,' i. 200.) It also appears that Green- wich Observatory has a consideraljle popular reputation as an abode of sorcerers and astrologers ; and re- markable applications for casting nativities, and for infoi-mation as to forthcoming wives and husbands, are occasionally made here. A doorway in the S.E. corner of the Park opens on Blackheafh. (See Etc. 2.) E. of Greenwich Hospital rises Norfolk College, niav]i.ed by its square central turret. It was built and en- dowed, in 1603, by Henry Earl of Northampton, younger son of the Earl of Surrey, and grandson of the Duke of Norfolk ; hence its name. It supports 22 poor and a warden. The Mercers' Company are the trustees. In the chapel, consecrated 1617, are the remains and monimient of the founder, removed here in 1696 from the ruined church in Dover Castle. Queen Elizaheth's Collefje, S.W. ot the town, was founded in 1576 by Lambarde, author of the ' Perambu- lation of Kent,' the first book of local history published in England. The roof of the old Church at Greenwich, in which Hen. YIII. was baptised, fell in, in 1710. The pre- sent building dates from 1718 and is quite ruiinteresting. Gen. Wolfe, the conqueror of Quebec, was buried here in 1759, his family having re- sided at Blackheath. Here is also buried Lavinia Duchess of Bolton, the original Polly Peachum of Gaj'"s opera. The earlier ch. was dedi- cated to St. Alphage, Abp. of Can- terbury, who, after the sack of Can- terbury in 1012, was kept prisoner in the Danish camp at Greenwich for 7 months, and then martyred. It contained monuments to Thos. Tallis, the "King's musician' (d. 1585), "lather of the collegiate style," and to Lambarde the historian, whose tomb was removed to Sevenoaks, where it now is. Greenwich abounds in Hotels, or more properly taverns ; the best of which are, tlie Trafalgar (very good), the Crown and Sceptre, and the Ship. All these are much frequented by I^arties from I>oudon, especially Kext. Route 1 . — Woolwich Dochyard. 11 during the whiteljait season. This most delicate fish, oue of the sj^e'cial- ites of London gastronomy, is found only in this part of the river, near Greeuwieli and Blackwall, between the months of April and August. It was at one time supposed to be the fry of larger fish, and the catch- ing of it was pronounced illegal : but English ichthyologists, and princi- pally Mr. Yarrell, have proved it to be a distinct species belonging to the Clupeidai (lierring family), and have bestowed on it the name of Clujpea alha ; thereby relieving lord mayors and aldermen " from the awful responsibility of convicting whitebait fishers in the morning, and feasting on the ' pisciculos mi- uutos' in the evening." Leaving Greenwich, the steamers touch at Blackwall, 65 m., where is the terminus of the London Eailway, and close adjoining, the Blackioall Docks, especially appropriated to vessels trading to India and China. Vessels of 14U0 tons get up to these docks ; the entrance-basin of which is common to the Blackwall and the W. India Docks ; the latter extend- ing between Blackwall. and Lime- house, at both of which places there are entrances. There are many taverns here famoiis for their white- bait aud fish dinners ; the best being the West India Dock Tavern, and Lovegrove's Hotel. The Lea, which here, at Bow Creek, falls into the Thames, forms the boimdary be- tween Middlesex and Essex. The Esses or 1. bank is rpiite without interest, rt. The green liills of Charlton (see ^a. 2) are seen, a continuation of the chalk escarp- ment in Greenwich Park ; and then appear the great building-sheds of 9^ m. Woolwich Dockyard, claim- ing, with wliatever justice, to be the " Mother Dock of England." A royal dock is at all events known to have existed here in 1515 ; but Erith disputes with Woolwich the honour of liaving been the birthplace of the famous " Henrye • Grace de Dieu," tlie ship which conveyed Henry VIII. to the Field of the Cloth of Gold, and on the deck of which the King is seen standing in the well-known Windsor picture of his embarkation at Dover. (There is a copy of this picture ui the Painted Hall at Greenwich.) Gius- tiuian, the Venetian ambassador, describes it as "a galeas of unusual magnitude, with such a number of heavy guns that we doubt wliether any fortress, however strong, could resist their tire." It was, according to him, launched at Erith, in October 1515. The King and Queen attended the launch, " with well-nigli all the lords and prelates of the kingdom, and all dmed on board at the Kings charge." The cost of tliis " grete shippe'" was 6478L 8s. 0%d. ; and it took 4 days and 400 men to work it from Erith to Barking. Whether the "Henrye" can be claimed for Woolwich or not, in 1559 Queen Elizabeth was present at the launching of a very large ship here, to which she gave her own name. Among other celebrated ships built at Woolwich was " The Eoyal Sovereign" (1637), called by the Dutch " The Golden Devil," from the gilt carvings witli which she was covered, and the active part she played during the Com- monwealth war with Holland. A fine picture of this ship, by Van- dcvelde, with a portrait in the foreground of its builder, Phineas Pett, exists in the collection of the Earl of Yarborough. The ill-fated " Koyal George" was built here in 1751 : and since the adoption of steam by the Eoyal Navy, Woolwich has received an accession of impor- tance. It is now the chief steam dock in England ; and the " Eoyal Albert," launched here in 1854, is tlie largest man-of-war as yet built after the fashion which has entirely cliangcd the character of naval war- fare. 12 Route 1. — The Thames. — Erith. Sect. I. Tlie steamer coasts along Wool- wich Dockyard for nearly 1 m., a for more "noble slight" now than when Fielding passed it on his way to Lisbon. It is open at all times, from 9 to 11.30, and from 1 to 5.30. The most remarkable objects are — The Covered Slips, among which notice esijecially the iron shed erected over sliiJ No. 5. It consists of one centre span, 82 ft. wide, by 2(jl ft. long, and 94 in height, witli two side spans attached, each 32 ft. wide and 232 long. This, completed in 1857, has been jironovmced one of the finest buildings of the kind ex- isting. The Anclior Forge, where " the monstrous mass they beat l"o save from adverse winds and waves the gallant British fleet," anil the Giant Shears, for masting and dismasting vessels. In the Steam Engine Factory the largest engines are made ; and the clang of 100 hammers incessantly re- sounds here in the dei')artment of the boiler-makers. The yard contams two large dry docks, and a basin 400 ft. long by 300 wide, capable of receiving the largest vessels. Off the yard is a chain of Imlks for the detention of convicts, who are daily moved on shore to the public works. Under certain restric- tions, a portion of the value of their work is reserved for their own use. Each convict liulk has three decks, contains a chapel, and has 600 men on board. Beyond the Dockyard are the wharfs of the Royal Arsenal, marked by their cranes for loading Ord- nance storeshiiis, and by the range of storehouses opposite. There is a military ferry from the Arsenal to Duval's Point on the opposite side of the river, so that artillery may be sent into the eastern counties from the depot here without passing through London. The river here is i m. broad. (For a fidl notice of Woolwich see Kte. 2.) At the back of Woolwich rises Shooter's Hill, with the tower, com- memorating the taking of Severn- droog, on its summit. The Thames, from London to Gravesend, is retained within its pre- sent limits by very large embank- ments, the date of which is unknown. The river is several feet liigher than the level of the siuTounding coimtry, being in effect an aqueduct, raised and sujiported between its artificial banks. These are well marked in this part of its course. It has been suggested that they were the work of the abbeys of Stratford, in Essex, and Lesnes, near Erith, both of which were established during the 12t]i cent. Others have given them an earlier date. " The })robability is that they are the work of the ancient Britons, vmder Koman su- perintendence. That they are the result of skill and bold enterprise, not unworthy of any period, is certain." ( Walker's Tliames Re- port, 1841.) On cither side of the river, behind these embankments, and below the surface of alluvial mud, is a stratum of marine deposit, indicating that a wide arm of the sea once stretched much farther in- land than at present. The little stream of tlie Roding joins the Thames from the Essex side a short distance below Woolwich ; but although the rt. bank rises to some height, there is not much to interest until we reach I62 m. Erith, rt. — Sax. mrre-hythe, the old haven, still a very pretty and rural village, in the midst of green lanes and pleasant footpaths, in spite of pier, hotel, lodging-houses, and similar indications of an increasing influx of visitors from London. The claim f)f Erith to be the place where King Henry's great ship was built has already been noticed. Erith Church, half-coveredwithivy, ispicturesquely placed inider the rising bank. It Kext. Route 1. — Eritli. — Furfleet. 13 contains portions ranging from E.E. to Perp., and is interesting in &\Aie of much disfiguration. There are some good brasses, the earliest being John Aylmer and wife, 1405. There is also an elaborate altar-tomb with effigy, for Elizabeth Countess of Shrewsbmy, d. 1.568 ; and in the chancel an indifferent monument by Chantrey to the late Lord Eardlcy. In this ch. the year after the signing of Magna Charta, a meeting took place between Hubert de Burgh and others on the King's part, and cer- tain of the Barons, with the view of effecting a final peace, which the Great Chai'terhad not as j-et brought about. Weaver the antiquary, who has preserved so many monumental inscriptions, held the rectory of Erith temp. Jas. I. W. of the town is an immense sand-pit, with about 40 ft. of perp. frontage, full of interest for the geo- logist. Below the sand may be traced the bed of ii'onstone and clay which around Ijondon is gene- rally found to rest on the chalk, here seen below. In the clay here bones and tusks of elephants and other mammals have been found. Some plants of rarity occur in the neigh- bouring marshes. Among the trees at the top of the hill, and seen from the river, appears tlie prospect tower of Belvidere (Sir Culling Eardley). The lower lodge is very near the ch. ; but the public entrance to the park is on the top of tlie hill, 5 m. distant, and rather beyond the house, a large brick man- .sion, commanding a fine view over the Thames and its shipping. The collection of pictures liere, a very im- portant one, is shown by tickets, ^yhich may be procured from Mr. Dal ton, bookseller, Cockspui- St., price Is. each. Among them remark especially : — The Entombment, Roger van der Weyden. Tlie Koot of Jesse ; an ex- •luisite work by an imknown master of the school of Bruges, circ. 1500. Snyders' wife and child, Vandyclc. Time bringing Truth to IAght,Eiibens. The Alchemists ; Gambling Banditti ; and the Picture Gallery, Teniers. Duchess of Buckingham, and 4 children, Vandyck. Admiral Tromp, Hals. The Unjust Steward, Q. Matsys. The Golden Age, P. Breuqliel. And two very fine Muril- los — the Assumption of the Virgin, one of his finest works ; and a Flight into Egypt. [A pleasant excursion may be made by landing at Erith, visiting the ch. and Belvidere, and then walking to Woolwich by the lower road, 5 m. seeing Lesnes Abbey by the way (see Kte. 2), and returning to London by railway. " The variety of the scenery along this road is very great, alternating with the beauties of hills, flats, and water. Among the windings of the road, the foliage and uneven ground, with their grand and massive depths of colour, present you with a picture after the taste of Gaspar Poussra. In a few paces the view changes to an ojien reach of the Tliames, all in breezy motion with vessels, and Vandevelde thrusts out Poussin ; Vandevelde in his turn gives way to Cuyp, as you come upon the flat sprinkled with cattle, and lighted up with broad beams of smishine." — Felix Summerlcy.'^ Close to Erith Pier, extensive public gardens have been formed along the bank of the river. A little below, 1., are the chalk and sand clifls of ISi m. Furfleet, formed by exca- vations in the chalk resembling those at Northfleet (see post). Bea- con Hill, immediately above the vil- lage, is high and jiicturesque. Queen Eliz., whose chance words are said to have given names to many places in this neighbourhood, has the re- putation of iiaving thus named Pur- fleet ; a corruption, says tradition, of "Oh my poor fleet!" her Majesty's gracious exclamation when looking from this spot on her ships depart- 14 Route 1. — GreenhUhe. — Gray^s Thurroch. Sect. I. ing to encounter the Armada. Tlio fleet, liowevcr, both here and at Northfleet, is the trench or cut- ting through wliich the water from the marshes flows into the Thames. The low grey buildings seen here are the Government powder maga- zines, estabUshed in 1759, when they were removed from Greenwich, tlie inhabitants of which place jjeti- tioned against them as dangerous. They are capable of containing 30,000 barrels of powder. Tlie roofs are vaulted, and the doors, &c., coi^per- fastened. A great number of merchant ves- sels and others are always to be seen lying oif Erith and Purfleet. Only a fixed numl:»er are admitted at once to the London Docks. Those in waiting " bide their time " here and at Gravesend. Oi^posite Pm-fleet the river Da- rent, navigable as high as Dartford (about 3 m.), falls into the Thames, having received its tributary, the Cray, below the town. The Dart- ford Creek was famous for its salmon fishery as late as James I. ; to the great comfort of the Dartford monks, whose purse and table were alike benefited thereby. The Church of Stone, rt., on its hillock, is the next landmark. It has E. E. and Dec. portions, the latter very rich, and of much in- terest. The arcade round the chancel has a series of jjilasters, with Weald marble shafts and mouldings. Ke- mark the curious door (Tr. Norm.) on the N. side of nave. The chapel N. of the chancel is late Perp., and was built by Sir John Wiltshire, temp. Hen. VIII., whose altar-tomb .still remains in it. Brasses : John Eumbarde, rector, 1-llS (very good) ; John Sorewell, rector, 1439. The manor early belonged to the Bps. of Eochester, who probably erected the chm'ch. Stone Chruxdi, which should on no account be neglected by the antiquary, may be visited from 21^ m. Gr&enhiilte, rt., from which it is distant about 1 m. Here, and at other points on either bank, are numerous chalk-pits and cuttings, some of which ai'e of great antiquity. The chalk worked throughout this part of Kent is converted into lime on the spot, and sent to London and else- where for building and manuring pm- poses. Greenhithe, where there is a pier, dei'ives its principal importance from this chalk traffic. Beyond the village the green lawns of Ingress Abbey (James Harmer, Esq.) stretch pleasantly down to the waterside. Ingress was a grange attached to the Priory of Dartford. The present house was partly built with stones from Old London Bridge. From Greenhitlie, June 19, 1845, the "Erebus" and "Terror," under Sir John Franklin and Caj^tain Crozier, sailed on their last fatal expedition — the 5Sth, and, it is to be hoped, the final, expedition for the exjjloration of the Polar Seas despatched from England. Besides Stone, the villages of Cray- ford, Dartford, and Swanscombe (see lite. 2), lie at easy distances inland from Greenhithe, and afford very pretty walks and drives. On the 1. bank, which has become rather more interesting below Pur- fleet, the long irregular street of 235 m. Gray's TJiurroch appears opposite Greenhithe. It has a trade in bricks, which are made here. One of the branches of the "Grey" family formerly held, and gave name to, the manor. The modern Gothic building at the back of the town is Belmont Castle (Richard W\-bb, Esq.). At Little TJiurroch are some of those remarkable excavations in the chalk, also foimd at E. Tilbury, (see post), Daiiford, and other places adjoining the Thames. They are here called "Dane holes," or "Cuno- beline's Gold Mines." We are now in " Fiddler's Ecach ;" so named perhaps from the irregular swell of the water, called by seamen "fiddling." The tomist may how- Kent. Route 1 . — Northfieet. — Gravesend. 15 ever, if lie prefers it, adopt a tradition ■which asserts tliat three liddk'rs were once drowned here. At Northjieet, rt. {Inns: India Arms ; Plough and Harrow), closely adjoining Gravesend, remark the sin- gular masses of chalk along the bank, now covered with brushwood. These have been left daring the excava- tions, as not containing chalk of good quality, and the result is very picturesque. Advantage has been taken of these excavations in form- ing the Iioshe7-ville Gardens{so named from their first proprietor, Jeremiali Kosher, Esq.), which lie between Northfleet and Gravesend, and have become a favourite resort. Some of the cliiis in these gardens are upwards of 150 ft. higli. There is a pier in comiexion with them, at which the steamers touch. Much chalk is still burnt here, and lime is exported from the works to Holland and Flanders. Flints from the chalk-pits are sent not only to Stafibrdshire, for the use of the potteries, but even to China for similar pm-poses. Chalk fossils, chiefly cchinites and glosso-petraj (sharks' teeth), abound. There is a large yard for shipbuilding at Northfleet, and a dock, excavated in the solid chalk, which will hold 6 or 7 large ships. In the ch. are some good brasses : Peter de Lacy, rec- tor, 1375; Will. Lye, 1391; Tho. Brato and Wife, 1511 ; and 2 others of uncertain date. The tower of this ch. is said to have aftbrdcd so con- spicuous a mark to pirates and other " water thieves " sailing up the river, that it was thought necessary to make it a fortress, like many of the church towers on the English bor- ders. It has been partly rebuilt ; but the steps which lead from the churchyard to the first floor are probably connected with its early defences. A similar stair running under the N. wall of the tower oc- curs at liochester. On an eminence near Stone Bridge, and seen from the river, is Huggins College, recently founded by John Huggins, Esq., of Sittingbourue, and consisting of 40 residences for decayed tradesmen. A chapel with a lofty spire is attached. In the parish churchyard a mausoleum has been erected by the formder. It is pyramidal, with views of Huggins College ou 2 of the sides. Almost forming one town with Northfleet is 261 m. Gravesend (Pop. 1G,000, including the par. of Milton), always a place of considerable importance, since it occupies the first rising ground after entering the river, the passage up which it to some extent commands. Only a hijthe, or landing- place, is mentioned here in Domes- day, but the town grew up about it soon after the Conquest. Out- ward-bound ships lay here to com- plete their cargoes, and here the early voyagers assembled their little fleets, as Sebastian Cabot in 1553, and Martin Frobisher in 157C ; the queen, " as tluir pinnaces passed Green- wich, having bade them farewell with shaking her hand at them out of the window." The town was incoqjorated by Elizabeth, and re- ceived for arms (which it still re- tains) a boat steered by a hedge- hog, the latter being the device of Sir Henry Sidnej', steward of the royal honour of Otford, in which Gravesend is situated. The right of conveying passengers to and from London was from a very early period attached to the manor, and was con- firmed by Pichard II. after the town had been burnt by the French in 1377. All eminent strangers arriving by water were received here by the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and City Companies, and conducted up the river in state ; processions wliich, "in days when the silver Thames deserved its name, and the sun could shine down upon it out of the blue sunmier sky, were spectacles scarcely rivalled in gorgeousness by the world- 16 Route 1 , — Gravesend. — Milton. Sect. I. famous weddings of the Adriatic.'" — Froude. Gravesend atpresent contains little to interest the toiuist. The town consists of an older portion, chiefly uaiTOW and dirty lanes near the river, and a new quarter, S. of the London road, and W. of tlie old town, com- posed of streets and squares due to the facilities of transiwrt between this place and London, afforded by the railway and the numerous steamers. With these advantages, and the further recommendations of salubrious air and cheap living, Gravesend has become a sort of watering-place for the London citi- zens, and on Sundays in summer the place is literally overrun with swarms of Londoners who come down in the morning and return in the evening. Besides the usual rows of cardboard lodging-houses, and villas in all the exuberance of the Florid Cockney style, the imjjrovemeuts made here within the last few years consist of two Fiers tlu'own out into the river to facilitate the landing of passengers, the first erection of which was violently opposed by the watermen of the i)lace, who had previously gained a livelihood by transporting passengers from vessels to the shore in boats. One of the piers was de- stroyed by them at night, but the damage was quickly repaired, and the watermen punished. The other new buildings are a Market, Theatre, Liljrary, Assembly Kooms, and The Baths, an extensive range of buildings by the river-side, a little to the W. of the town, containing hot, cold, and vapour baths. Bathing macliines are jjrovided on the shore. The saltuess of the water here is the leading article of a Gravesender's creed, and indeed, if not as salt as the sea, it is considered sufficiently so for all bathing jmrposes. Adjoining the baths is a garden laid out with agreeable walks, and furnished with seats. The parish church of Gravesend has been twice bm-nt ; and the exist- ing building dates from 1731, when it was dedicated to St. Geoi^-e, " in compliment to the King's name," says Hasted. A new ch. has been lately built near the railway station. In 1793 Mr. Ealph Dod attempted for the first time to carry a " drift- way" for foot-passengers beneath the Thames at this point. He had proceeded but a short way however before the water burst in, and put an end to the imdertaking. Vessels en- tering or quitting the Thames here take on board pilots. The town of Gravesend stretches \i\) the hill-side, from the top of which there are good views over the Thames. The best point is Wind- mill Hill. There is a ferry-boat across the river to Tilbury Fort, 1 m. Trains run every half-liour to Eochester and Chatham, 8 m. (See Rte. 2.) Closely adjoining Gravesend, E., is Milton, where is a late Dee. church. The sedilia arc of good design, and the cor])els of the original roof are worth notice. Some remains of a chantr}-, founded by Aymer de Va- lence, abovit 1322, adjoin the Parson- age House. The site is now appropri- ated to the service of the Board of Ordnance. At Gravesend is the entrance of the Thames and Medway Canal, which originally opened into the lat- ter river opposite Chatham. It was completed in 1824, but was unsuc- cessful, and was at length pm'chased by the N. Kent Railway Company, by whom some portion of its coiuse was adopted for the line between Gravesend and liochester. A part still remains open, and is occa- sionally used. The historical associations con- nected with Tilhury Fort, on the op- posite bank, are among the most in- teresting of the Thames. Some kind of fortification here is mentioned as early as 1402; but the first block- house at Tilbury was erected by Kent. Route 1. — Tllhwi/. 17 Henry VIII. in 1539, when the line of forts along the S.E. coasts (in- chiding those at Deal and Walmer), were also completed mider fear of an immediate invasion. At the time of the Armada, Henry VIII. s fort was strengthened hy fortifications, de- signed by an Italian engineer named Genibelli ; and " a miglity army was encamped here, as it was given out that the enemy meant to invade the Thames." {Hakluyt.) The "mighty army" consisted of 10,000 men, and some traces of the camp in which they were assemVjled under the Earl of Leicester still remain near the ch. of West Tilbury, at some little distance from the river. It was here that " Great Gloriana " reviewed her troops in person, riding through the camp, and exciting them by words as well as brave looks. After the appearance of the Dutch fleet in the river, it was determiiied to erect a regular fortification at Tilbury. This has been strengthened from time to time, and it now forms one of the main defences for the entrance of the Thames. It is encompassed by a deep wide fosse, and on its ramparts are several formidable batteries of heavy ordnance, mostly toward the river. The bastions are the largest in England. The garrison have it in their power to lay the whole sur- rounding level under water, thus adding not a little to the strength of their defences. Strangers are ad- mitted to the fortification on appli- cation to the resident governor. In a chalk-pit, near tlie village of E. Tilbury, are numerous excavations called " Danes" Holes," which re- semble those at Dartford and else- where iu the neighbourhood of the river, and arc of great interest. A liorizontal passage is said to lead from these caverns to others re- sembling them at Chadwell, near Little Thurrock. The entrance is fi'om above, liy narrow circular pas- sages, which widen below, and com- mmiicate with umucrous apartments, all of regular forms. The size and dejith vary. Similar excavations, though appa- rently formed with greater regularity, exist iu the chalk and tufa on either bank of the Somme, as high as Peronne iu the diocese of Amiens. They have been traced in more than oO 2iarishes ; and there is every reason to believe that, if not ori- ginally formed, they were enlarged and rendered available, during the "fm-or Normannormn" of the 10th cent. In many cases these " souter- rains " have a communication witli the parish ch. ; a fact to which a portion of the district seems indebted for the title of " Territorium sanctas liberationis " which it bore in the r2th cent. The tradition of the country still asserts that these caverns were used for the retreat and concealment of the inhabitants in time of war, whence their ordi- nary name — "les souterrains des guerres." There is no trace what- ever of their having served as cata- combs, which indeed their arrange- ment seems altogether to contradict. (For an interesting notice of them, and a j^lan of one of the largest, see Mem. de VAcad. deslnscrij}.,t.xxvn.) The Thames was haunted by the galleys of the Northmen not less frequently than the Somme ; and it is very probable that the excavations adjoining, and on the banks of, oiu- own river, may have served a similar pm-pose. The name here given to them, " Danes' Holes," is at least a proof of the lasting impression made by these sea-rovers. It is much to be desired that the pits here, at Dartford (see Kte. 2), Aylesford (Etc. 5), and elsewhere, should be more carefidly examined, and com- pared with those in Picardy. They may bo of British origin, and sepul- chral (see Aylesford), but at a later jjcriod appropriated as hiding-places. Tlie width of the Thames at Gravcscnd is more than ^ mile, and the depth at low water about 18 Route 1 . — Junction of Thames and 3Iedway. Sect. I. 48 ft. Notwithstanding this, the bank at Higham, 1 m. below Graves- tud, is one of the points wliich have been fixed npon as the scene of tlie fording of the Thames by Auhis Flautius, the lieutenant of Claudius, A.D. 43. There is, however, not the slightest proof that the estuary here was ever more fordable than at pre- sent, and the conjecture may there- fore be dismissed without much hesitation. The river widens rapidly below Gravesend, as it forms " The Hope," the last of its many reaches, but the fiat banks on either side have no points of interest. The tower of Stanford-le-Hope is seen 1., and more distant the spire of Corringham. At Hole or Tliames Haren, 1., sup- plies of lobsters from the Norwegian and Scottish coasts are deposited, for conveyance up the river. At Hope Point, 1., is a small battery for the defence of the river below Tilbury. The ancient importance of the tract from Higham to the Isle of Grain is attested by the many small cluu'ches, Norm, and E. E., which are scattered over it. (See Rte. 2.) Canvey Island, 1., consists entirely of marshland, about 3500 acres, ami is banked in all round. It is about 5 m. long, and is a great sheep pasture. Camden has fixed on Can- vey as the Counnenos of Ptolemy, placed by Baxter at the Isle of Dogs. Beyond Canvey Island, 1., is seen the I'erp. Cliurch of Leigh, with its little village ; mainly occupied by persons engaged in the oyster and shrimp fisheries, for which the mouth of the Thames is famous. The shore at Leigh is found to be well adajited for tlie fonnation of oyster "nurse- ries," in which tlie jelly-like spawn, brought from beds at considerable distances, including the " Rocher de Cancale " on the coast of France, is laid to grow and fatten. A short distance below Lei"rh is a low obelisk called the Crow Stone, marking the eastern limit of the Lord Mayor's jurisdiction as "Con- servator of the river." From this stone there is a good view of the ruins of Hadleigh Castle, called the "Tower of Essex," and built by Hubert de Burgh, temp. Hen. III. (See Handbook for Eastern Counties.} The shrubberies and long pier of Southend (40 m.), are next seen, 1. (Inn: Royal Hotel.) The pier, 1^ m. in extent, is the longest in England, and has a railway on it for convey- ance of passengers from the steamers which touch here. The town is very small and quiet — " a mere shrimp of a sea-town ; Erith is a mighty lobster compared to it ;" — but has the advantage of being the sea-bathing- place nearest to London. The view of the entrance of the Thames, alive with vessels, and the open sea beyond, is very fine, and the surrounding country is pleasant. (See Handbook for Eastern Counties.} The " marriage of the Thames and Medway " takes place off the Isle of Grain, Sheerness (see Rte. 2), marking the entrance of the latter river. This is the scene of Dib- din's song : — "And see where the river inbranches divides, Cut in two, all the same as a fork, IIow proudly the Commerce with Industry rides ! Then the Blarney, — oh, she's bound for Cork. There 's the homeward-bound fleet from the iJowns, only see ! So taut their topgallant-masts bend : There "s the Silkworm, the Beaver, the Ant, and tlie Bee, And all standing on for Gravesend." On the Nore Sand (41 m.), at tlie mouth of the Thames, is fixed the famous light-vessel which guides all the shipping of the world in and out of the port of London. Like many other lights on the English coast, it was first placed here by private enterprise ; a Mr. Hamblin, in 1731, having obtained a ])atent for " an improved distinguishable light," proved it on board a vessel Kext, Houte 2. — London to Chatham. 19 called the " Experiment," which he moored on this sand. Its benefits were at once obvious, and tlie " Nore Light " was soon afterwards ph^ced under tlie control of the Trinity Board. The breadth of the Thames at the Nore is G m. We are now fairly in the German Ocean, the Essex coast trending away northward, but the long line of that of Kent still extending S. and E. The clifls of the Isle of Sheppeij, gra- dually undermining by the waves, are here conspicuous. In sight are the churches of Minster and Warden. The cliifs, like the whole of the island, are masses of London clay, (For Sheppey, see Rte. 3.) Beyond the Swale, which sepa- rates Sheppey from the mainland, the long town of Whlistaple is seen, famous for its oyster fisheries aud for its colliers, which from this point supply the greater part of E. Kent (see Etc. 8). Between Whitstaple and the E. extremity of Foulness Island on the Essex coast, the tide- way has a breadth of 18 m. The pier of Heme Buy (Rte. 9) now stretches seaward, and the twin spires of Beculver (Kte. 9) appear cresting the clift", which from this point becomes steeper and more picturesque, until the tourist lands at 72 m. 3Iargate. (See Rte. 9.) EOUTE 2. LONDON TO CHATHAM. {London Bridge Station.) The railway is carried on arches over the low marshy ground towards Deptford, nearly as far as the first statiou — - •4 m. New Cross; before reaching whicli the line passes through a sidjurb interspersed with extensive market gardens. Rotherhithe and Deptford lie 1., and the forest of masts crowding the docks and river appear beyond them : rt. in tlie dis- tance the roofs of the Sydenham Palace sparkle in the sun. The ground on either side is, however, perfectly level imtil 5 m. Lewisham is reached, and the hill of Greenwich rises 1. toward the river. The long straggling town of LeM'isham stretches for a consider- able distance along the high road to Sevenoaks, but contains nothing of interest. Together with Dejitford and Greenwich the manor was granted by Eltruda (circ. 900) to the Abbey of St. Peter at Ghent, which had a cell here. The ch. was rebuilt 1771, with a Corinthian portico and other ele- gances. In it is a monument by Flaxman for Mary, daughter of William Lushington, Esq., d. 1797. Tlie inscription is by Hayley. Dr. Stanhope, author of Commentaries ort the Epistles and Gospels, and who, according to the inscription on his monument, " happily united the good Christian, the solid divine, and the fine gentleman," was long vicar 20 Roide 2. — Ulackheat/i. Sect. I. here and is buried in the ch. Brian Puppa, Bp. successively of Chiches- t(^r, Salishiu-y, and, after the restora- tion, of Winchester, was born here 1588. G m. Blachheuth. (The Green l\Ian, a tavern greatly frequented by Sun- day visitors, stands N. of the heath.) The high ground of Blaekheath, its dry soil and clear air, have rendered it a. favourite retreat from Lon- don ; although it can boast of no recent accessions to the aristocratic villas for which it was once famous. The most remarkable of these are Montague House (now pulled down), renowned as the residence of Queen Caroline, and the scene of the Delicate Investigation ; Bruitstvick House, the " Babiole" referred to by Lord Chesterfield in his letters to his son, and frequently inhaljited by him. It was afterwards assigned to the Duchess of Brunswick. The gallery in this house was built by Lord Chesterfield. Lord Lyttletoiis Villa, the residence of Major-General "Wolfe, and occasionally of his son, the conqueror of Quebec, whose re- mains were brought here from Canada, and interred at Greenwich. These villas are all on the W. side of the heath, adjoining Greenwich Park. On Maze Hill are two houses luiilt by Sir John Vanbrugh, re- joicing in the names of the Bastile, and the ^lineed Pie House. Mordeii College, on the S. side of the heath, was founded for decayed merchants about 1695, by Sir John Morden, whose statue, with that of his wife, apjiears over the entrance. Their portraits are in the hall ; and they are buried in the chapel. The building, which is of brick, and forms a quadrangle, is surrounded by grounds of some extent. 11 of the house is a picturesque lime- tree avenue. 1'2 " decayed Turkey merchants" were placed here by the founder ; but the nundjer has been greatly increased by the aid of later benefactors; and the college now contains more than 70 pensioners ; a preference being given to those who have traded witli the Levant. The Watling Street crossed Black- heath nearly in the direction of the present London road, and many barrows, ai>parently of the Brito- Eoman period, have been opened at dilferent times along its course. Near one of these, which still exists toward the centre of the heath, Wat Tyler encamped in 1381 at the head of 100,000 followers ; and on the l)arrow itself Jack Cade's banner is said to have been raised in 1450, when the unhappy clerk of Chatham, "taken setting of boys' copies," was condeuaied to be hung in conse- quence, " with his pen and inkhorn about his neck." (HenryVI., Partll., act ir.) In 1497 Lord Audley and the troops he had brought witli him from Cornwall pitched their tents here, and were here defeated by Henry VII. The site of Michael Joseph's tent (one of their leaders) was shown when Lambarde wrote. It was com- monly called the " Smith's Forge," Josepli having been a blacksmith by trade. The situation of Blaekheatli, however, as the nearest open space above London on the Great Eastern road, has caused it to be distin- guished in more peaceful annals, as well as in those of rebellion. Illus- trious visitors, who preferred the Watling Street to the river as their highway to London, were met here and conducted in state to the city. Henry IV., in 1400, met here Manuel Emperor of Constantinople, who came to beg for aid against the Sul- tan Bajazet ; and sixteen years later the Emperor Sigisnnmd was received here, and conducted in state to Lam- beth. The mayor and 400 citizens, all in scarlet, with red and white hoods, here welcomed Henry V. on his return from Agincom't. Cardinal Canipeius was nut here by the Duke of Norfolk in 1519, when lie arrived in England as papal legate ; and here Hem-y ^'^II. encountered Anno of Kent. Route 2. — Charlton. 21 Cleves (having already inspected her privately at Eochester, to his Majesty's extreme dissatisfaction), and conducted lier to the jjalace at Greenwich. One famous scene on the heath lias been painted by a master-hand, and will at once be re- membered. It was here that Charles II. on his way from Dover met and passed through the ranks of the army of the Restoration ; and here Sir Henry Lee of Woodstock, with Bevis at his side, welcomed the King " to his own again," and then closed his eyes to open them no more. Few localities can boast, like Blackheath, of having been immortalised both by Shakspeare and Sir Walter Scott. These historical recollections make up the only interest of Black- heath, which has otherwise nothing to attract the visitor. The views from the higher parts of the heath are altogether eclipsed by those from Greenwich Park, whicli adjoins it N., beyond the London road. In the side of the hill here, above the park, and near Trinity Church, is a cavern about 150 ft. in length, called "The Point.' It consists of 4 irre- gular chambers, cut iu a stratmn of chalk and flint, and connected by narrow galleries. In the farthest chamber is a well of pine water. The age of this cavern is altogether unknown; but it is probably of the same character as those at Dartford. See post ; and ante, Ete. 1 (E. Til- buiy.) A well is found in many of the Picardy caverns there noticed. Blackheath is famous for the number of its schools, and boasts of a grammar-school established by Abraham Colfe, vicar of Lewisham, in 1652 — the master of which is liable to bo displaced "if he give scandal or bad example to the scholars or otliers .... if he follow vain gaudy fasliions of apparel .... or if he wear long, curled, or ruffin- liko hair." Attaclied to this school is a library given l\y its founder ; but not a little neulect.-.d. About 1 m. S. of Blackheath is the picturesque village of Lee, the neigh- bourhood of wliich abounds witli modern villas and cottages of gen- tility "with double coach-houses." The old ch., dedicated to St. Mar- garet, has fallen into ruin. In the churchyard is the tomb of Edmund Halley, the second Astronomer Royal at Greenwich, d. 1741. William Parsons the comedian is buried here. A ncAV ch. has lately been built at no great distance. There is much pleasing country in the neigh- bourhood of Lee. The ancient palace of Eltliam, o m., may be visited from Blackheath. (See Rte. 6.) The scenery becomes rather more attractive as the line reaches 8 m. Charlton, lying among the low hills between Woolwich and Blackheath, and f^xmous for its fair still kept up, and known as " Horii Fair," " by reason, ' says Philipott, " of all sorts of winding horns smd cups, and other vessels of horn, there brought to be sold." For the story connected with it see Rte. 1. (Cuckolds Point). The ch. was re- l;)uilt 1G40. In the N. chancel is the monmnent of Sir A. Newton and his wife, by Nich. Stone, tlie sculptoi-. It is very plain, but cost 1807. Charl- foil House (Sir T. M. Wilson), an ex- cellent specimen of the James I. manor-house, was built by Sir Adam Newton, circ. 1612. In the N. gallery is a good portrait of Henry Prince of Wales, to whom Sir Adam was tutoi-, and after whose death he spent the greater part of his life in retirement here, where he translated and pul)- lished in 1620 Father Sarpi's ' His- tory of the Council of Trent.' One of the lower rooms contains a l)lack marble chimney-piece, in thepolislieil face of which tradition asserts that Lord Downe saw tlie reflection of a robbery on Blackheath, and immedi- ately sent out his servants, by wlioni the thieves were secured. Ijonl Downe died here in 1679. In the 99 Route 2. — Woolwich — Arsenal. Sect. I. grounds of Charlton House are some of the oldest c}'presses m England. A farmhouse in tliis parish, called " Cherry Garden Farm," is said to have been huilt by Inigo Jones for his own residence. Tlie walk from Cliarlton to Wool- wicli, through the "Hanging Wood' adjoining Charlton House, is a plea- sant one. The sandpits here are ■well worth visiting bj' the geologist ; they display an interesting succes- sion of strata ; and fossils character- istic of the Loiidon clay, and of the chalk, which here closely touclies it, are found, and may be collected in and near them. 1 m. beyond Charlton the lino reaches 9 m. Woohcich (the Dockyard Sta- tion—there is a second at the furtlier end of the town, adjoining the Arsenal). Poj>. 30,000 exclusive of the garri- son. Inns very indifierent. The best are the Mitre, and the Crown and Anchor. The town of Woolwich, on the N. W. of which is the Eoyal Dockyard, and on the N.E., the Arsenal, occu- pies a space nearly 2 m. in lengtli on the S. bank of the Thames : and it extends i m. upwards from the river as far as the brow of the hill where are tlie Eoy.al Artillery bar- racks and hospital ; to the S. of which is a spacious level plateau, used for exercising troojjs and called Woolwich Common ; where stand some fine trees which increase the eft'ect of the military spectacles often taking place there. The formation of the Dockyard (see Ete. 1 ) cannot be referred to an earlier period than the accession of Henry VIII. It long continued of very small extent ; and has only been increased to its iiresent size within comparatively recent years. The latest additions to the Dock- yard here are the granite docks, capable of receiving the largest ships in the navy ; and the foimdry and boiler departments, where all engines are made, necessary for the due fitting of steam-ships. The Arsenal, which is the only one in the empire (the smaller es- tablislnncnts elsewhere are called Gunwharfs, as at Devonport and Chatham), was established in 1716, up to which time the principal foimdry for brass ordnance in the neiglibourhood of London was at INIoorfields. In that year, during the casting of a cannon, the mould l)urst, and many persons were killed and injured. The accident was caused by the dampness of the movdds, in -which some of the French guns taken by Marlborough were being recast. Andrew Schalch, of Schaffliausen, a young foreigner accidentally present, had observed this dampness, and, foreseeing the result, had warned Colonel Arm- strong, the Surveyor-General of Ordnance. A few days after the accident an advertisement ai:)peared requesting " the young foreigner" to call on Colonel Armstrong, " as the interview might be for his advan- tage." He did so, and was requested to choose a spot within 12 m. of London to wliich the establishment might be removed. He selected the Warren at Woolwich, on account of the abundance of loam, suitable for }noulds, in the neighboiu-hood (these loam-beds are lower members of the London-clay formation, just above the local chalk) ; and a new foundry was at once erected here, the buildings being designed by Vanbrugh. Schalch's first speci- mens of ordnance were highly ap- proved. He was appointed master foimder, an office wliich lie held for 60 years, and lies buried in Woolwich churchyard. It is probable that the reasons for selecting tliis site for tlie Arsenal were, that it was close to the seat of government, not exposed to attack, and yet convenient for shipping cannon and stores. Kent. Route 2. — WooIlcIcIi — BarracTis. This establishment contains not only the large stores of all descrip- tions, the cannon, shot, and shells, &c., which are required for the supply of oiir armies, and the arma- ment of our fortresses and ships, but also workshops for mamifacturing them, and for constructing artillery and carriages, as well as for pre- paring ammruiition for artillery and small arms. These are divided into 3 departments : the Gun Factories, Carriage Department, and Lahora- torrj : and large sums have lately been expended in the construction of new buildings and machinery, for the piu'pose of rendermg every branch capable of executing the work required of it as rapidly as possible. In the Gun Factory the operations of constructing the moulds, casting, boring, turning, and proving guns, are the most interesting. The foundry here, a tall building of red brick, is one of Vanbrugh's erections. The various macliines in the Car- riage Department, for sawing, planing, turning, dovetaiUng, &c., and for putting together the wheels by hy- draulic power, are extremely inge- nious : and the large building in the Laboratory, tilled with new ma- chinery for preparing the shells to receive the fuzes, furming bullets by compression, and constructing per- cussion caps, &c., is an extraordinary sight when all the wheels are in motion. In this department also, shells, fuzes, seamless cartridges and fireworks are constructed : and in a I^art of the Arsenal at the E. end, separate from all the other shops for greater security, the manufacture of rockets is carried on, with great precautions against explosion, the occurrence of which has sometimes caused considerable loss of life. Admission to the Arsenal has re- cently been much restricted : and the intending visitor will do well to make inquiries as to the best means of obtaining it, at the War Office in London, before proceeding to Woolwich. In the marshes to the E. of the Arsenal is an extensive piece of groiuid called the Practice liange, intended for experiment and practice with artillery from batteries con- structed for the juui^ose. The ex- periments are carried on princiiially with the object of testing inventions and improving artillery, mider the direction of a select committee con- sisting of officers of the Navy, Artil- lery, and Engineers, the iirofessors of mathematics and fortification at the Eoyal Military Academy, and the scientific civil officers of the Arsenal. Between the Arsenal and the bar- racks is the grand depot of field ar- tillery, in which the guns are kept mounted and ready for immediate use. The Artillery Barracls consist principally of an extensive range of buildings facing the Common (in front of which is an enormous brass grm, taken at Bhurtpore), and two large squares to the N. surrounded by stables, with quarters for the men over them. From the parade in front of these barracks, nearly 1 m. in length, there is a very striking view over the Charlton wood and the Thames toward London on one side, and toward Shooter's Hill on the other. At the W. end of the barracks is a battery from which shells are fired at a flag-staft' erected on the upper part of the Common : and beyond this is the Boyal Military Repository, enclosed by a line of field-works, where the instruction in serving and moving heavy gmis is carried on. The grounds are well wooded and veiy pretty: and contain sheets of water which are made to serve for practice in pontooning, and in the water carriage of large guns. On tlie highest point is the Botunda, originally the tent which did duty as a supper-room at a fete given at 24: Boute 2. — Shooter s Hill. Sect. I. Carlton House b}' the Prince Ilegent to the allied sovereigns. Here are arranged models of the principal dockyards, and of some important fortihcations. A small collection of arms and armour is also displayed here, part of which was formerly in tlie Cliateau of St. Germain. Among it is a suit of armour with pass-guards, said to have belonged to the good Knight Bayard. " It is certainly of his time. If it be really that which he wore, he does not appear Ijy any means to have been a tall man." — Meyrich. Remark also an en- graved vam-plate, 2 others curiously constructed with cylindrical tilts for the lances, a shield engraved with the arms of Bavaria, several varieties of guns, partizans, pikes, halberts and swords, a finely engraved salade, temp. Hen. VII., and, near the door, some very interesting early guns, found buried in the sand in the Isle of AValney on the coast of Lancashire, at a place only accessible at low water. The largest is formed of thick plates of iron, hooped : the others of wrought iron. They are tliought to have been on board one of the ships -which accompanied Richard II. to Ireland, when his fleet was scattered by a tempest and 25 vessels wrecked. Other objects of interest here are — the funeral car of Napoleon ; the oven in which his bread was baked when in the fiield ; and a cinder, the residue of 56 millions of bank notes, burnt wheir the 1 1, notes were called in. Both the Repository Ground and the Rotunda are at all times open to the public. On the Common, S.E. of the Repo- sitory Ground, is tlie Boijnl Military Acaderay, for tlie education of cadets destined for the Artillery and Engi- neers. The average number liere is about 200. The a'eademy was built in 1805, from the designs of Wyatt. The eminent mathematicians, Simp- son, Hutton, and Gregory, have at diiferent times presided here. Not verj' far from the dockyard, and on the border of the parish of Charlton, is the Compass Observa- tory ; a small building, but one of great importance. The standard compasses for the use of the na\7^ are carefulh' tested here before being supplied to each ship. Not a par- ticle of any metal but copper is used in theconstruction of the Observatory itself. A division of Royal Marines was established here in 1805, and occu]iy a handsome new barrack. Tlie interest of Woolwich is en- tirely confined to these great estab- lisliments. The churches contain nothing to detain the tourist. The parish church, dedicated to St. Mary INIagdaleue, was rebuilt about 17-1(). Two modern churches, St. John's and St. Thomas's, were built in 184:0 and 1850. The first is E. E. in de- sign, and tolerably good. Richard Lovelace the poet was born at "Woolwich in 1618, at the house of his father. Sir "William Lovelace, tlie site of which is un- known. At the back of 'W'oolwich rises Shooter's Hill, so named, like Gad's Hill near Rochester, from the bands of outlaws who anciently lay hid in the woods bordering the great road, which crossed the hill. The name of the hamlet of Welling, or Well End, beyond the hill, is said to ex- press the feelings of travellers who had safely passed these dangers. From the summit the view is ver}' fine on all sides ; finest, perhaps, toward London : — " A miglity mass of brick, and smoke, and shipping, Dirty and dusk}', but as wide iis eye Could roach, with here and there a sail just skipping In siglit, tlien lost amid the forestry Of masts; a wilderness of steeples peeping On tiptoe through their seacoal canopj'; A huge, dun cupola, like a foolscap crown On a fool's head— and there is London town ! " Don Juan, canto xi. The triangular tower here com- Kent. Route 2. — Ahhey Wood. memorates the taking of Severn- droog Castle on the coast of Mala- bar, in 1755, by Sir William James, and was erected by his widow. The sixmmit of this tower is 482 ft. above the sea-level. Eltham, with its ancient palace, lies 1^ m. beyond Shooter's Hill, S. It is best visited, however, either from Blackheath or from Lewisham. (See Etc. ii.) Leaving Woolwich the rail passes across the Plumstead and Erith marshes (in the first of which a powder magazine is seen, 1.) to re- gain the river at Erith. About I5 m. rt. is Plumstead Church, which has some E. E. portions, but has been much altered and added to. The churchyard exhibits a choice " derangement of epitaphs," one of wliicli contains a remarkable warn- ing against the abuse of Kentish • cherry-gardens : — " Weep not for me, ray parents dear. There is no w itiiess wanted here ; — The hammer of Death was given to me For eating the cherries off the tree." " The N. side of the churchyard overlooks a farmyard, the Pliuustead Marshes in the distance, with two line trees overhanging a poml, and fences in the foreground : the whole is a subject for the pencil." — F. Summerley. There are some good views from the hill above Plumstead : and the walk from here to P>ith is a pleasant one. It was a favourite walk of Robert Bloomiield the poet, during his occasional residences at Shooter's Hill, and is thus commemorated by him : — " O'er eastward u[)iands, gay or rude, Along to Erith's ivied spire, I start, witli strength .nid hope renew'd, And clierisli life's relvirulHnff fin?. Now measure vales with straining eyes, Now trace the churchyard's humble mmies, Or climb Iirown heaths abrupt that rise, And overlook the winding Tlianies." The station of 12 m. Abl)ey Wood is so named from tlie Abbey of Lesnes, of which \_Kenf & Sussex.'} the ritins lie a short distance 1. The district of Lesnes (pronounced Less- ness, in Domesday written Loisnes ; the etymology of the word seems quite uncertain) stretches across Lesnes Heath to Erith, and gives name to tlie hundred ; Eritlt, the parish in which it stands, being the ancient landing-place (xrre-fiythe, the old haven) from the river. Tlie Abbey, a house of Augustiniau canons, was founded in 1178 by Eichard de Lucy, Chief Justice of England ("Eicaidns Lux Luciorum," as his monmnent here was inscribed : and who afterwards himself joined the order here), and dedicated to St. Mary and tlie new martyr, Abp. Becket, by whom de laicy had been excommTUiicated with otliers of the King's party. Subsequent Itenefac- tors did much for the abbey, which, however, was never very wealthy, and was suppressed in 1524, together with 3 other small monasteries, Woli^ey having 0I1- taineda bull from Clement VII. for this purpose, and for the applicti- tion of the revenues toward the endowment of his new college at Oxford. After Wolsey's fall, Les- nes A])bey and its manors passed through various hands, until toward the end of the 17th cent, they were settled by their then owner, partly on the Hospital of St. Bartholo- mew in London, and partly on Christ's Hospital, which still possess them. Theexistingruins, the areaof which is occupied as a market-garden, con- sist mtuidy of the N. wall of the re- fectory, and are part of the original foundation. The ch. seems to have extended beyond, and the position of the cloister court adjoining is still traceable. The present house, called the Abbey Farm, is built on part of the old foundation, and is the recent successor of one far more ancient and ))icturesqne. The con- vent-gfirden still rtmains enclosed within its ancient boundary wall. c 26 Route 2. — Cray ford. Sect. I. [An omnibus leaves the Abbey Wood station several times daily for Bexley Heath, Sj m., an assemblage of villas lately erected. Adjoin- ing tlie Heath is Danson Hill (Hugh Johnston, Esq.), the grounds of which were laid out by Capability Brown. The Church of East Wickham, 2 m., contains 2 good brasses — John Bla- dicdone and wife, 1325 (lialf-lengths, in head of floriated cross), and Will. Payn, in tlie dress of a yeoman of the guard, 3 wives and 3 sons, loUS.J From Abbey Wood the line passes imder the woods of the Belvidere to 14 m. Erith.—See Rte. 1 for this jdace and for the Belvidere (Sir Culling Eardley), which may be visited from here. The liouse con- tains an important collection of pictures. [^Crayford, IJ m. rt., on the little river Cray, which gives its name to a chain of picturesque villages on its banks, is the Creccan-ford of the Saxon Chronicle, at which place the second of the battles between Hengist and the Britons is said to have been fought ; after which " tlie Britons forsook Kent-land, ' that is, the open country or Caint (Celt.) lying along tlie river (Guest). On Bexley Heath, S. of Crayford, the coiu'se of the Watling Street, which may have influenced the battle (sup- posing it to be other than legendary), is strongly marked. Here and on many of the neighbovu'ing heaths are numerous excavations in the chalk, of great depth, with narrow mouths, but widening into ample vaults below. They resemljle those at E. Tilbuiy (see Kte. 1, where is a notice of similar caves in Picardy). A tradition resembling that on tlie l)anks of the Somme is connected with tliese caves, which are said to Jiave been constructed by the Britons ibr retreat in time of war. Similar pits in the neighbourhood of Aylcs- ford are found filled witli flints from the chalk, and are proliably sepul- chral. (SeelUe. 5.) Crayford Church is dedicated to St. Paulinus, the fellow missionary of Augustine, and 3rd Bp. of Rochester. The altai-picce was the gift of Sir Cloudesley Shovel, who owned considerable property in this parish, and wliose widow died here at May Place. She has a monument in the ch. On the river, near tlie village, are some large es- tablishments for silk and calico printing ; and some large sawmills, at which the flooring for Buckingham Palace was cut. A mill of more ro- mantic associations, for the manufac- ture of plates for armour, formerly existed on the Cray. {Harris.) The stream of the Cray may be traced upwards witli interest to its source in the parish of Orpington, about 8 m. from Crayford. It runs through a valley of much quiet beauty ; and its trout are said to be tlie best in this part of Kent. The churches on its banks will repay examination. That of Bexley, 1 m., was very early attaclied to the " Priory of the Holy Trinity of Lon- don," and contains some of the ori- ginal stall-work in the chancel. The greater part of the walls is E. E., as is the tower. Tlie windows are Dec, and Perp. insertions. Brass, Thomas Sparrow, 1513. There is a mural monument for Sir John Champneys and wife, 1556. ThelSIa- nor of Bexley was sold by Sir John Spielman, the Dartfoid paper-manu- facturer, to Camden, the " reverend head " to whom English history and archeology are so greatly indebted. With its rental Camden founded a Professorship of History at Oxford, to wliich the manor is still attached. Adjoining North Cray, 2i m., is Vale'Mnscall (Rev. John Egerton). The stream here is very picturesque. A short distance E. lies Buxley Farm, where still exists a desecrated ch., the parish originally attached to which is now united to North Cray. The ch. is converted into a barn, and is late Dec. The sedilia remain within. Bokeslie or Ruxley still gives Kext. Route 2. — Dartford, 27 name to the hundred. The Chin-ch of Foot's Cray, 3 m., is apparently rude early Dec. The chancel is Tr. Norm. In it are the effigies of Sir Simon de Vanghan and wife, lord of the manor teniiJ. Edw. III. The parish derives its name from the sobriquet of its recorded Saxon proprietor, Godwin Fot, or Foot. There are here several paper-mills on the river. Between Foots Cray and Sidcup (about 1 m. N.W.) is a building called Ursula Lodge, a re- treat for 6 maiden ladies, recently founded by H. Berens, Esq. The Church of St. Paul's Cray, 5 m., is, like that of Crayford, dedicated to St. Paulinus. "It is entirely E.E., with the tootli-moulding over the W. door ; though a curious two- light window, much mjiu-ed by weather, but of Norm, character, and two round holes in the tower, seem to have belonged to an earlier edifice." — Hussey. St. Mary Cray has a large Perp. Church. Brasses : Isabel Cossale, in a shroud, of un- certain date. Richard Avery and 3 wives, 1558. Elizabeth Cobham and her first husband John Hart, 1543. Orpington, 8 m., the last ch. on the Craj% has Norm, portions, but is mainly E. E., and contains some carved woodwork. The springs of the Cray here are numerous, and often rise so high as to flood the village.] Beyond Erith the line of rail bends inland from the river, and 17 m. reaches Dartford {Inn, The Bull, High Street), a town of some importance, Ijnng between 2 steep hills at the place where the Roman road crossed the river Darent (Dwr, Celt, water ; so the Devonshire Dart and the Iberian Douro), which from this place opens in a broad naviga- ble creek to the Thames. No bridge, however, existed here imtil the end of the reign of Henry YI., tip to which time the river was crossed by a ferry. Dartford is famous for its large paper and powder mills ; and the town is still rapidly increasing. There is some pleasant country in the neighbourhood. A Priory of Augustiiiian nuns was founded here m 1355 by IMward III., and was much patronized by the noble ladies of Kent, many of whom here retired from the world. After the dissolution the Priory was converted into a residence fur Henry VIII., by whom it was after- wards granted to Anne of Cloves. On reverting to the Crown, it formed a part of the lands exchanged Ity James I. with Sir Robert Cecil for his manor of Theobalds. The Cecils conveyed the Priory to Sir Edward Darcy, who lived here. The re- mains, now called the Place House, lie at the W. end of the town, but are of no great interest. The gate- house, and a building attached to it, now used as a farmhouse, are of brick, and not earlier than Henry VII. The building is said to have been very extensive, as is partly ])roved by the ancient wall of enclo- sure, portions of which still exist. A Chatifry of St. Edmund the Martyr, which stood detached, in its own cemetery on the ojiposite side of the town, was granted to the Priory by Edward III., and formed part of its first endowment. The Chantry was visited by pilgrims on their way to Canterbury ; and was in so great repute on its own account that the Watling Street towards London is occasionally referred to as " St. Edmimds AVay." The chantry ruins have completely disappeared. Dartford Church has been greatly altered at ditferent times, and has suftered not a little from the at- tacks of beautifying chmchwardens. Within are the remains of a Dec. Screen, and some interesting monu- ments. In the chancel is that of Sir John Spielman (d. 1G07), Queen Illi- zabeth's jeweller, who built here one of the earliest paper-mills in Eng- land. Brasses : Richard Martin and wife, 1402. Agnes Molyngton, 1454. c2 28 Route 2. — The Darent. — Mllniington, Sect. I. Wife of Thomas Rothdo, and 4 children, 1464. The powder and paper mills, both of great extent, arc a little bej'ond the town. The paper-mills were first establislied here in the reign of Elizabeth, by Sir John Spiel- mn.n (a (lernian b}- descent), who l)laiited })ef()re the door the first 2 lime-trees ever seen in this Y>avt of England, having- " brought them over sea with him in his portman- teau." These fathers of English limes were cut down toward the end of the last century. They have, however, numerous representatives ; and tlie nun of Dartford, thanks to Sir Jolm, may still refresh tliem- selves "unter den linden." The great "illustration" of Dart- ford is Wat Tyler : who in the fifth year of Richard II. commenced his insurrection here by beating out the brains of the poll-tax collector. Whether he or the collector is alluded to in the local rhyme — • " Sutton fur mutton, Kirkby for beef, South ])arne for gingerbread, And Dartford for a thief" — the reader may determine for him- self. The places thus poetically commemorated all lie on the stream of the Darent, above Dartford. The views from Dartford Heath, 1 m. S.W. of the town, are fine, em- brticing a wide sweej) of the river. On different parts of the heath are numerous hollows and excavations in the chalk, resembling those at Crayford, the age and even the ex- tent of which is altogether imknown. They descend by deep shafts, and w^iden below into numberless cham- bers and galleries. Similar hollows, though ]ierhaps not so extensive, «xist at Tilbury on the Essex coast, on the Ayle.sford Downs, and else- where in the chalk district ; and it seems most i)rol)able that they were originally excaviited partly as sepul- chral caves and jjartly for the sake of the chalk, which is known to have been exported during the Brito- Eoman period ; although they may have been afterwards enlarged and arranged as places of temporary re- treat and security. (See E. Tilbury, Rte. 1, and Crayford, ante.) Between Dartford and the Brent, a heath lying E. of the town, the course of the Roman road is still very conspicuous. The chalk downs which here border the Darent, every- where dotted with black tufts of juniper, are famous for the many species of orchis to be found on them. [A coach leaves the Dartfonl station daily for Fartu'ngham, 5 m., following the coru'se of the Darent, which flows through a broad valley between hills that increase in height as the chalk district is entered. The scenery is pleasant, the best points being about Horton and Farningham. On this rotid the village of Wil- viiiigton, 1 m., stands pleasantly among cherry-gardens, which form the great wealth of the neighbour- hootl. The manor has passed through many illustrious hands, in- cluding those of the "King Maker" Earl of Warwick, and of Margaret Plantagenet, Countess of Salisbury, the ill-fated mother of Sir Regi- nald Pole, the " Wliite Rose" who troubled Henry VIII., and of the better known cardinal. The ch. has been lattdy restored, but con- tains nothing of interest. At Joyden's Wood in this parish, are traces of ancient buildings, probably Roman, which have not been sufficiently ex- amined. 2^ m., on the 1. bank of the stream, is the remarkable Churcli of Darent, which the archaeologist shoidd not leave unvisited. The chancel, which is Norman, has 2 divisions, the east- ernmost of which is vaulted witli stone, and is divided into 2 parts, having a .small chamber above the vaidting. For a similar instance, compare the Church of Compton, Kent. Route 2. — Suttoii-at-Hone. — Horton KlrJJ ij. 29 near Guildford, ui Surrey. Both parts of the Darent chaucel are Norman, though considerable differ- ence of opinion exists as to their being early or late in the style. The lights opened in the E. wall are narrow lancets. There were origin- ally five, the two njiper and larger ones bemg now closed. Eemark in the three lower lights, and hi other Norman portions of the building, the external ornaments in the window- heads, which are of very unusual character. In the walls are many Roman bricks. The ch., which is dedicated to S. IMargaret, a patroness in great favoin with the Normans, has also E. E. portions, and others of later date. The font is Norman, and is elaborately carved in 8 com- partments, divided by semicircidar arches. Darent was given by the Saxon Duke Eadulf, in 940, to Christ Church, Canterbury ; and it con- tinued in possession of that monas- tery until 119.5, when Abp. Hubert exchanged it for Lambeth with the priory of St. Andrew at Rochester, which retained it until the dissolu- tion. The earlier portions of the ch. here are therefore the work of the great Canterbiuy Priory, and should be compai-ed with such Norman re- mains as exist on other manors once belonging to the .same house. 1 m. S.E. of the ch. stood the Chapel of St. Margaret Hilles, a separate pre- cinct until 1.557, when it was united to the parish of Darent, and the chapel speedily fell to ruin. No traces remain. On the hill opposite are many barrows ; and there is an earthwork of some extent in Darent Wood, adjoining. \\ m. rt., close to the road, is Sutton - at - Heme (in the valleij. Sax.), tin; praises of whose heath- fed mutton have been sung by local bards. The eh. is principally Deco- rated, though it suffered nmch from a fire in 1G15. On each door of the chancel screen is carved a face, with the tongue hanging out of the mouth, and passed through a buckle, the device of an ancient family in the parish named Puckletongue. In the chancel is the monument with recumbent effigy of Sir Thomas Smith, of Sutton Place, " Governor of the p]ast Indian and other Com- panies, Treasurer of tlie Virginian Plantation, and sometime Ambas- sador to the Emperor and Great Duke of Russia and ISIuscovy." Sir Thomas, not the least distinguished of Elizabethan navigators, is said to have died of the plague, which devastated all this district in 1625, the year of his death. His once stately mansion of Sutton Place, originally erected by Sir Maurice Denys, temp. Hen. VIII., after pass- ing through the hands of the Le- tliieuUiers.became toward tlie middle of tlie last century the property of the Mumford family, who still pos- sess it. Much of it has been pulled down at different times, and the rest modernised. 4 m. 1., on the further bank of the Darent, is HovLoii Kirkhij. The cross ch., witli central tower, is interesting, although it has been much patched and altered. The greater part is E. E. Arcades run round the inte- rior of the transepts. The tower arches are of unusual height. Three original trefoil-heade<l windows re- main at the E. end of chancel ; the others are later. In the chancel is a recessed Dec. tomb, possibly for one of the De Ros family, long lords of Horton. There are 2 brasses Cimknown) of the 16tli cent. At the time of the Domesday survey Horton was held under Bp. Odo by Anschitill de Ros, wliose descendant, Lora, called " The Lady of Horton," conveyed the manor by marriage to the north-country family of Kirkby, who already possessed lands heie. Hence tlie name Horton Kirlihij, which by no means indicates a Danish settlement. N. of the ch.. 30 Route 2. — Farniiigham. — Eynsfoi-d. Sect. I. and overlianging the stream of tlie Darent, are considerable remains of Horton Castle, the stronghold of the De Eos, and afterwards of the Kirkby families. It was re-edified by Roger de Kirkby, temp. Edw. I., but the existing remains are of much later chai'aeter, and have no great interest. 4^ m. 1., on the 1. bank of the river, is Franks, a fine old house of brick witli stone dressings, built by Launcelot Bathurst, alderman of London, who purchased the estate, temp. Eliz., and died 1594. It is now a farmhouse. Another 5 m. brings us to 5 m. FarniiKjliam, lying pictu- resquely in the valley between tlie ridges of chalk hills. The ch. is mainly E. E., with a Perp. tower. The chancel is much narrower than the nave, and in the end walls of the latter are 2 small E. E. windows. Brasses : Will. Culbone, vicai", 1451, and 2 smaller ones of the 16th cent. Observe the font, which is Perp., with figures carved on its 8 sides. Closely adjoining Farningliam is E[/iisford, where are large paper- mills, rising from tlie midst of orchards and cherry -gardens, whose white blossoms in early spring add not a little to the beauty of the river valley. The ch. is E. E., with u rich Norm. W. door. The chancel terminates in an apse, liglited by .3 lancets. The S. transept has 8 lancets. The N. has been rebuilt, and is Pei-p. Near the river are the remains — but little more than the walls— of Eyusford Castle, the moat of which is now converted into an orchard. The walls, which enclose nearly an acre, as well as the frag- ments of the keep, are Norm., and are built of flints from the chalk, with which many Eoman bricks are intermixed. Eynsford was given to Christ Church, Canterbury, about 950, by a Saxon named MWege. The castle and manor were held under the abp. by a family named Eynsford, until the reign of Edward I., when they passed into the hands of the great Kentish house of Criol. They have since had mnnerous jiro- prietors ; but the castle seems to have fallen into decay at an early period. The early character of the chm-ches in the valley of the Darent, as well as the Roman bricks constantly found in their walls, mark the an- cient importance and popidation of this district. Two roads of great antiquity open into the valley, — the Watling Street at Dartford, and a second from London to Maidstone, which crosses it here at Farningliam. From Farningliam the tourist may proceed, still following the course of the Darent, to Sevenouhs, 8 m. The scenery is good ; and places of in- terest on the road are LuUingstone, Slioreham, and Otford. There is no public conveyance. See for this line, Rte. 6, Excursion from Seven- oaks. 3 From Dartford the line of rail bends N. toward the river, and, leaving Stone Church (Rte. 1) 1., reaches the next station, 20 m. Greenhithe (see Rte. 1). [1^ m. S. of Greenhithe is Sioans- condie, in Domesday written Suines- camp, and said to derive its name from a winter camp of the Danes, fixed here under their king Sweyn, — the river having at one time formed an inlet as high as this place. Early traditions have at all events become connected with Swanscombe, the most remarkable being that wliicli places here the meeting of the Conqueror with the " men of Kent," led by Abp. Stigand and the abbot of St. Augustine's. Like the host of Malcolm at Dunsi- nane, the Kentish army is said to have moved forward under a cloud of green boughs, which they flung down when within reach of the Nor- man, who, alarmed at their number and firmness, confirmed on the spot Kent. Route 2 . — Swanscomhe. — Nutsted. 31 all their ancient laws and privileges. Hence, says tradition, tlie distinction between the " men of Kent" — who thus secured their old freedom — and the " Kentish men," or Victi, to be found in other parts of the cormty, — the " men of Kent " being more especially the inliabitants of the long valley of tlie Holmsdale, stretching away from Dorking toward Seven- oaks, and renowned in popular legend as " The vale of Holmsdale— Never conquered, never sball." This curious story first appears in the Chronicles of Sprott and Thorne, monks of St. Augustine's, Canter- bury ; but, although they may have embroidei'ed it for the sake of their abbot, ^-Egilswin, they probably had a grounding of tradition to work upon. The distinction between " Kentish men " and " men of Kent " has been explained by making the first new settlers, and the latter the original tillers and owners of the soil. It is perhaps wortli suggesting that the name " Castellum Canlu- ariorum" given by Bede (H. E., iv. 5) to Rochester, may indicate the ex- istence of such a distinction at an early period. In Swanscombe Wood, beyond the ch., is Clapper-napper's Hole, a cavern famous in the local folk lore. Cocklesliell Ban]:, near Green-street Green, will supply the geologist witli some good specimens. The Manor House (John Covenej', Esq.) is ancient and worth notice. The Church of Swanscombe is of very high interest, and claims (' Gloss, of Archit.") to be the only Saxon example in the county. The portions for which this claim is made are,— some parts of the imUs of the nave and cliancel- in which, however, later windows have been inserted— and the lower part of the tower, in the S. wall of whicli is the mark of a round-headed window, formed of Roman bricks. At the angles is some rough long-and-sliort work, resembling the poreli of Bishop- stone Cliurch, Sussex. (Hussey.) Tlie interior of the nave is Tr. Norm., and there are Norm, and E. E. win- dows in the chancel. In the chancel is the monument of Sir Anthony Weldon, clerk of the kitchen to Queen Elizabctli and James I., who in his spiteful remi- niscences has supplied us witli one of the best pictures of the Britisli Solomon, and who sat himself to Sir Walter for the character of Sir Mungo Malagrowther. The monu- ment of Lady Weldon is opposite ; and in the S. chancel are other Wel- don memorials, including a stately altar-tomb with recumbent figures for Sir Raljih and Lady Weldon : d. 1609. The ch. here was attached to the manor, which soon after the Con- quest was granted to the family of Montcliesnie, who long held it. In it was one of the many shrines which, lying on or not far from their road, pilgrims to Canterbury were accustomed to visit. The slirine here was that of St. Hildefertli, wliose aid was invaluable in all cases of insanity or " melancliolia. 'J Very pleasant glimpses of the river open 1. between (Treenhitlie and 21 m. Northfleet {see Rte. 1). 2 m. furtlier we reach 24 m. Gravesend (Rte. 1), at which place the rail leaves the river-bank, and bends across the country to- ward the Medway at Stroud, still following pretty closely tlie old line of tlie Watling Street. f An omnibus leaves tlie Graves- end station daily for Meopiham (6 m.). On this road, at Nutsted (4 m.), some very slight remains of a most in- teresting 14th century manor-liouse have, witliin the last few years, been worked into a modern building. Much larger portions were destroyed at the same time. There were here a remarkable hall, with timber co- lumns and arches, two small rooms 32 lioufe 2. — Meopham. — Higliam. — Cliffe. Sect. I. adjoining, and a fragment of a strong tower. Wliat remains niay be worth a visit. Tlie liouse was probably erected by a family named Graves- end, two of whom were bishops Df London in the 14th cent. Meopluim, G m. (Sax. Meapaham — Meapa s lium orhoiue), lies pleasantly among the chalk hills, parts of which are here thickly wooded. A portion of the village is bnilt romid a broad green, in true old Kentish fashion. The ch., which is large and good, is chielly Dec. It was rebnilt, as a gift to his native place, by Simon de Meopham, that un- happy iirbp. of Canterbury (1327- 1333) who fell a victim to the com- bined assaidts of the pope and the Bp. of Exeter (see his tomb in Canterbury Cathedral, Ete. 8). Con- siderable repairs were made to the building by Abp. Courtenay, which are Perp. The brasses which formerly existed here are said to have been melted during the recast- ing of the bells toward the end of the last cent. Meopham was granted by Eadulf to the church of Canter- bury iu'.)40, and after the dissolution was restored by Henry to the newly- founded chapter. In this parish is Gamer. (William Masters Smith, Esq.)] From the next station, 29 m. Higliam, the chui'ches of Chalk and Shorne may be visited, ))oth of which are interesting. They will best be taken, however, from llochester ; and the excm-sion may be made to comprise Gadshill, with its memories of Falstafif, and Cob- ham Chinch and Hall. (See post). The ch. of IligJuuii was attached to a Benedictine Nunneiy, founded liere by K. Stephen, of whicli his daughter Mary became the first abbess. This nunnery is said to have been first placed at Lillechurch, about 1 m. from Higliam, but it was afterwards removed close to the pre- sent cliureh, and there are still somc^ fragments of its ancient buildings in a house here called the Abbey. Au ancient causeway, probably of Roman origin, leads from here across the marshes to the Thames, wliere was formerly a ferry, beyond which the road proceeded in a direct line toward Colchester (Camulodunum). [1. of Higliam stretches away a dreary ague-haunted district, formed by the tongue of low chalk land, surrounded by a broad hem of marsh, lying between the Thame* and the Medway. The greater part of this is comprised in the Hundred of Hoo, of which a proverb ran in HoUinshed's time — •' He that rides into the hundred of Hoo, Besides pilfering seamen, will find dirt enoo." The dirt at least still exists in plenty. There are here one or two churches of interest, which may best 1)0 reached from Strood. Cliffe and Coiding maybe visited fromHigham. Cliffe (2 m. from Higham), on the edge of the chalk overhanging the marshes, is a place of considerable interest to the archfcologist, since it has been generally regarded as the Cloveshoo (Clifte at Hoo) at which, during the 7th and two following cents., numerous councils of the Saxon church were held ; the place being first mentioned in 673, when Abp. Theodore, in a council at Hertford, arranged with his bishops and clergy for an annual meeting at Clofeslwch. (Beda, H. E. iv. 5). Others have placed Cloveshoo at Abingdon in Berks, or at Clifton Hoo in Bedfordshire. Clifte was at all events one of the earliest posses- sions of Ch. Ch. Canterbury, and was retained by that monastery until the dissolution. The church, ded. to St. Helen, is mainly Perp. and still exhibits the miserere stalls found in most of the churches on the Ch. Ch. I manors. There are some fragments , of stained glass. Brass : Bouham I Faunce, wives and children, 1052. I lu the nave and N. aisle are sepul- chral slabs with short inscriptions Kknt. Route 2. — Cowling. — Strood. 33 iu Norm. Frcncli, perhaps of tlie 14th cent. An ancient silver-gilt paten, enriclicd with blue and green enamel, and having in the centre a representation of the Trinity, is pre- served among the eommmrion-plate. It is perhaps temp. Edw. III. About L m. E. of Clifle is C'oa-?//);/, where, on the edge of the marsh, are considerable remains of a castle, for- merly lield by the Cobhams, and worth a visit. The castle formed a square, and was surrounded by a moat, beyond which was the gate- house, flanked by two round towers, and machicolated. The ruins of the castle itself are now converted into a farmhouse. The gatehouse re- mains nearly perfect, and has still on the E. tower a brazen tablet with this inscription : — " Knoweth that betli anil shall be That I am made in help of the centre ; In knowing of whiche thing This is charlre and witnessing." Beneath is the seal of arms of John de Cobham, who (4th Eich. II.) ob- tained licence to embattle his manor- liousc here, which he entirely rebuilt. Cowling had been in the hands of the Cobhams since the reign of Edw. I., and passed, through their lieiress, to Sir John Oldcastle, who assumed in consequence the title of Lord Cobham. It was in Cowling Castle that Sir John, then the great leader of the Lollards, shut himself up when accused of heresj' by Abp. Arundel, whose apjDaritor showed himself before the walls with his citation to no pin-pose. Lady Cob- liam retained Cowling after the exe- cution of Sir John Oldcastle, and her descendants possessed it until about IGGS. Sir Thomas Wyatt, during his insurrection in the first year of Queen IMary, attacked Cow- ling with G pieces of cannon ; but ai'ter doing considerable damage to the castle, was compelled to marcli on to Gravesend without taking it. It was then held by Sir treorgc Brookes, Lord Cobham. The Church of Cowling was given to the Cathedral of Eochester about 9G0. Brass : Faith Brooke, daughter of Sir J. Brooke, Lord Cobham. 1.508.] Between some deep cuttings, and by a tunnel of considerable length, through which the Thames and Med- way Canal formerly passed, and the enlargement of which for the rail- way offered much difficulty, owing to the lightness of the chalk which it pierces, the rail reaches 31 m. Strood, the station for Eo- rhester, Chutliain, and Brampton, which, together witli Strood, form in fact a single town, united by a bridge across the Medway. Omnibuses for Eochester, Chat- ham, and Brompton meet every train. The Medway Company's steam- boats leave the quay close adjoining the station, for Sheeiiiess, 3 times every day during the summer. (See Ete."3.) There is little to delay the tourist on the Strood side of the Medway ; and the clnu-ches of Strood and Frinsbury, which latter is seen from the station. 1., are of small interest. The Church of Strood was rebuilt in 1812, with the exception of the tower. A brass for Thomas Glover and his 3 wives (1444) was replaced here from the older church, with other less remarkable monmnents. The manor of Strood was given by Henry II. to the Knights Templars, and some fragments of their Pre- ceptory remain on the 1. bank of the river, about 5 m. above Eochester Bridge. They are not, however, of any great importance. Near the churchyard is the site of an hospital founded by Bp. Glanville of Eoches- ter, temp. Eich. I., as well for tra- vellers as for permanent inmates, wlio distinguished themselves by peii^etual skirmishes with the monks of Eochester, coming at last to a c3 31 Route 2. — Rochester Bridge. Sect. I. grand 'l);ittle roj-al with thcra in the orchard of the hospital. As a jmnishment, the men of Stiood and Frinsbury, who had si(Ud with the hospital, were compelled to walk in procession to Eochester every Whit Monday, carrying the clubs with which they had assisted in attacking the monks. Hence the byeword of " Frinsbnry Clnbs." One of the ce- meteries of Eoman Eochester lay on this side of the jMedway, and nu- merous discoveries have been made on its site. The singular mixture of quiet and bustle, of red barracks and black, of the old world and the new, which distinguishes Eochester and its asso- ciate towns, is at once evident as the view opens in front of the railway station. Opposite rise the great Norm. Castle and Cathedral. Crest- ing the hill beyond is Fort Pitt, above Chatham ; and immediately before us is the river, crowded with barges and steamers, signs of the vast modern establishments which have been engrafted on the old Cathedral town. Bochester Bridge, rt., by which we pass into the city, has always been one of tlie lions of the place ; and the existing structure of Messrs. Fox and Henderson, a triumph of engineering skill, has no reason to fear a comparison with its banished predecessors. A wooden bridge of uncertain antiquity, de- fended by a wooden tower and strong gates at its E. or Eochester end, continued in use until the 15th year of Eich. II., when a bridge of stone, one of the best and strongest struc- tures of the time, was founded by Sir Eobert KnoUes and Sir John de Cobham, each of whom had acquired great wealth during the French wars of Edw. III. Both of these bridges were kept in repair by a customary tax levied on nearly all the parishes in this part of Kent. The wooden bridge occupied the site of the pre- .sent iron one ; and in constructing this latter, a great quantity of oaken piles, shod with iron, the foundations of the older work, were drawn from the bed of the river ; as much as 660 cubic feet of timber being thus recovered. The stone bridge, about 40 yards nearer the castle, had 11 arches, and was crested with an iron railing, worked at the foundry of Mayfield in Sussex, and given by Abp. Warham. At the E. end was originally a wayside chantry, fovuided by Sir John de Cobham for the benefit of travellers. This bridge, although massive and picturesque, was too narrow and in- convenient for the wants of modern traffic ; and the foundations of the present structure, occupying as nearly as possible the site of the first wooden bridge, were laid by Messrs. Fox and Henderson in 1850. The bases on which the 4 piers rest are formed of clusters of iron cylin- ders, sunk below the bed of the river as far as the hard chalk, and filled with a concrete which hardens luider water. These cjdinders rest on each other, and are bolted toge- ther, thus forming a solid stone pillar coated with iron. Tliey rise to low-water mark ; and courses of masonry are carried above them, which sn])port the bridge itself. This is entirely of iron. The centre arch has a span of 170 ft. ; the 2 side-arches 140 each. Toward the Eochester end is the " swing-bridge," a section 99 ft. long, which tiu'us on a pivot, leaving an open ship-canal 50 ft. in width. The machinery here employed should be carefidly examined. The entire weight to be moved is upwards of 200 ton.s, j-et the bridge is readily swung by 2 men at a capstan. The destruction of the massive old bridge above was commenced in 1856, under the care of officers of the Eoyal Engineers. Many illus- trious personages had crossed it during its long life of active service ; and its career was fitly closed by the passage of Queen Victoria, who in Kent. Route 2. — Rochester. 35 the autumn of 1S5G more than once crossed it on her way to visit the wounded troops from the Crimea, at Fort Pitt and Brompton. An ugly railway-bridge, carrying the N. Kent line onward toward Chatham, crosses the Medway just below ; but the view up the river from the present bridge differs little from that contemplated by Mr. Pickwick from the old one : — " On the left of the spectator lay the ruined wall, broken in many places, and in some overhanging the narrow beach below in rude and heavy masses. Huge knots of sea- weed hung upon the jagged and pointed stones, trembling in every breath of wind ; and the green ivy clung mournfully round the dark and ruined battlements. Behind it rose the ancient castle, its towers roofless, and its massive walls crumbling away, but telling as proudly of its old might and strength, as when, 700 years ago, it rang with the clash of arms, or re- sounded with the noise of feasting and revelry. On either side, the banks of the Medway, covered with cornfields and pastures, with here and there a windmill or a distant church, stretched away as far as the eye could see, presenting a rich and varied landscape, rendered more beautiful by the changing shadows which passed swiftly across it, as the thin and half-formed clouds skimmed away in the light of the morning sun. The river, reflecting the clear blue of the sky, glistened and sparkled as it flowed noiselessly on ; and the oars of the fishermen dipped into the water with a clear and liquid sound, as their heavy but picturesque boats glided slowly down the stream." — Pickwick Papers, chap. V. Rochester (Pop., with Chatham, Brompton, Gillingham, and Strooil, about 50,000. Inns: the Crown, a picturesque and venerable hostelry, with gables and barge-boards, at which Queen Elizabeth sojourned in 157S, and in the comtyard of which the scene of the carriers in ' Hemy IV.' — Part I. act ii. so. 1 — may be supposed to have taken place ; — the Bull, or Royal Victoria — "Good house — nice beds " — honoured by the visit of Mr. Pickwick), where the Watling Street crossed the Medway, must always have been a position of importance ; and the name of the Eoman Castrum here, Durohrivai (Z>u-r— water, and the Celtic term hriva, always found in connection vntli similar river ferries), seems to imply that a British stronghold had still earlier been fixed at this place. Its Saxon name, Hrofeceastre (Ro- chester), retains, according to Bede, that of Hrof, the Saxon chieftain, who first settled here (Hrofs ceastre or castle). The situation of Rochester on the river and the great road exj^osed it to constant pillage, and it suffered much from both Saxons and Danes. Henry III., after the Castle had been taken by Louis of France (see post), restored the town walls, and began a deep entrenchment without them as an additional pro- tection. The town itself, however, was soon afterwards taken by De Montfort's party, although the castle held out. Among the royal personages who have visited Rochester are,— Henry VIII., who first beheld Anne of Cleves at the Crown Inn here, and pronounced her a "Flanders mare ;" Queen Elizabeth, who remained for 5 days here in 1573 ; King James and the King of Denmark, who together imderwent a sermon in the cathedral in 1606 ; Charles II., who passed through Rochester with great demonstrations of joy on his restoration, and was presented with a silver basin and ewer ; and James II., who, after his first attempt at escape, removed here from White- hall under a Dutch guard, and after a week's detention embarked pri- 36 Route 2. — Rochester — Cathedral. Sect. I. vately on board a tender in the river, which landed him at Amble- teuse. Rochester was never of great size ; and now consists of one prin- cipal street, which has many cha- racteristics in common with the other towns clustered about it. " Their principal productions," ob- serves Mr. Pickwick, " appear to be soldiers, sailors, Jews, chalk, shrimps, officers, and dockyard-men. The commodities chiefly exposed for sale in the public streets are marine stores, hardbake, apples, flat-fish, and oysters. The streets present a lively and animated appearance, oc- casioned chiefly by the conviviality of the military. It is truly delight- ful to a philanthropic mind to see these gallant men .staggering along under the influence of an overflow both of animal and ardent spirits. . . The consumption of tobacco in these towns must be very great ; and the smell which pervades the streets must be exceedingly delicious to those who are extremely fond of smoking. A supei-ficial traveller might object to the dirt which is their leading characteristic ; but to those who view it as an indication of traffic and commercial prosperity it is t]-uly gratifying." From the Jews, the shrimps, and the soldiers, however, the tourist will at once escape, by turning from the High Street, rt., toward the Cathedral, which, although inferior in size and general appearance to all other Eng- lish cathedrals, is, nevertheless, full of interest, and deserves verj' careful study. A Missionary Church, with the establishment of secular piriests then usual, was founded here about 600, under the auspices of Augustine, who in fj04 consecrated Justus the first bishop of Rochester. Like Augustine himself, Justus had been sent from the great convent of St. Andrew on the Coelian, the convent of Gregory the Grc.'at ; and the new cathedral at Rochester was ac- cordingly dedicated to God, and in honour of St. Andrew. The posi- tion of Rochester, the first outpost advanced by Augustine beyond Can- terbury, made it an excellent centre for the confirmation and propagation of the new faith. The cathedral suffered much from Danish ravages, and, like Canter- bury, was in a completely ruined con- dition at the time of the Norman con- quest. So it continued until Guu- dulf, the friend of Abp. Ijanfranc, was consecrated bishop in 1077. Many of the manors belonging to the church of Rochester, which Odo of Bayeux had seized, had already been recovered by Lanfranc. Others were restored to Gundulf, who pro- ceeded to repair and all-bnt rebuild his cathedral and the priory con- nected with it. In this he esta- blished, as Lanfranc had done at Canterbury, a colony of Benedictine monks in place of the secular clergy. Ernulf, prior of Canterbury, suc- ceeded Gundulf as liishop of Roches- ter, and built the dormitory, cliapter- house, and refectory {Ang. Sac. i. 342) ; but it was not imtil 5 years after his death, and during the l)ishopric of John of Canterbury, that the new cathedral was detli- cated (1130) in presence of the king and a great company of bishops. In this Norm. ch. were displayed the slirines of St. Paulinus, third bishop, and of his successor St. Ithamar (644-65G), of Kentish birtli, and re- markable as the first native bishop of the Saxon Church. The cathedral was greatly injured by fire (combusta est, says the Chro- nicle) in 1177. Richard de Ross, prior in 1199, and his successor Helias, are said to have covered the new roofs with lead. William de Hoo, prior 1239, rebuilt the choir (chancel?); and Richard, sacrist, circ. 1240, the S. aisle of the choir. The N. aisle was begun by Richard Eastgate, and completed by William of Axenham, both Benedictines here, and both of Kent. Route 2. — Rochester- — Cathedral. 37 the 13th cent. The tower of the cathedral was raised by Prior Haymo, afterwards bishop, and his successor John de Sheppey (1343), who placed 4 bells in it, called Dunstan, Paidinus, Ithaniar, and Lanfranc. The cathedi'al suffered much in 1264, when the castle of Rochester was besieged by Simon de Montfort, whose troops, like the heathen Northmen before them and the Pm-itan soldiers afterwards, tmued the nave into a stable. The stained glass seems to have disappeared at the dissolution, since Abp. Laud in 1633 complains that the building- had received great injurj'; from the want of glass in the windows. After the retreat of the Commonwealth troops the nave was long used as a carpenters shop, and " several saw- pits were dug in it." At this time all the brasses were destroyed, in which, as their traces still prove, the eh. was very rich. The dates supplied above will assist us in examining the cathedral. The W. front, with the exception of the great Perp. window, belongs to the Norm, period from Gundulf to Bp. John. The great door is a very fine example of this time. It is formed of 9 receding arches, with pilasters at the angles, 2 of which are carved into figures which have been conjectm-ed to represent Henry I. and Matilda. These statues were much and deservedly praised by Flaxman. The long, plaited hair recalls the early French statues of the 1st and 2nd dynasties. In the tym- panum is the Saviour supported by 2 angels ; below are figures of the 12 apostles, few of which are en- tire. Of the 4 towers which once completed this front, only 1 remains tolerably perfect,— a sort of tui-ret, and apparently late in the style (comp. the IC. end of Horsham, Sussex, which is however much later). In the centre niche of the N. tower is a figure which has been thought to represent C4undulf. The whole character of this front re- sembles the Norm, fragmeiits of Mai- ling abbey, near Maidstone, also attributed to Gundulf. The Nave (150 ft. long to the cross of the lantern) is Norm, as far as the 2 last bays eastward, and possibly part of Gimdulfs work. The triforium is richly ornamented (comp. Christ Church, Hants, of the same date) ; and the arches open to the side aisles, as well as to the nave, a peculiarity perhaps derived from the Norm, cathedral of Can- terbury (no longer existing), which in its tiu-n may have received it from the ch. of St. Stephen's at Caen, where the same arrangement may still be seen. Lanfranc, tlie builder of the Norm. ch. at Canterbury, had been abbot of St. Stephen's. ( Willis's Cdnferhury, p. 65.) The clerestory windows above, like those of the aisles, are Perp., and the roof seems to have been raised at the time of their insertion. The font is Norm., square, and enriched. In the S. aisle are monuments for Lord and Lady Henniker (1792, 1803), in which Honour and Bene- volence, Time and Eternity, play conspicuous parts. E. of these mo- numents is the late Pei-p. Chapel of St. Mary, recently well restored, but of no great interest. It is said to have been used as the chapel of the Infirmary for the adjoining priory. In passing beyond the Norm, por- tion of the nave to the E. E., of which nearly all the rest of the cathedral consists, the strong influ- ence of Canterbury is at once appa- rent. The double transepts, the numberless pilasters of Petworth marble, and perhaps the flights of stairs ascending from either side of the crypt, recall immediately tlie works of the two Williams in the metropolitical church, which always maintained the closest connection with Ilocliester, her earliest daughter. The TFesierw or Nave Transepts are 38 Route 2. — Rochester — Cathedral. Sect. I. both E. E., diifering ho-wever in de- tail, the N. transept being much richer than the S., which is possibly a few years later, and underwent some alteration during the building of the Perp. Chapel of S. Mary. The corbels of the N. transept, nearly all monastic heads, are of unusual excellence ; and the whole arrangement here is very rich and varied. Remark the banded shafts of marble that cluster about the tower piers. The wooden roof, with its grotesque ornaments, above which hang the bells, dates from 1840, but can hardly be commended. No de- fence whatever can be made for the miserable festoons still permitted to degrade the great choir arch above the organ. The w^ant of stained glass, which is felt throughout the cathedral, is most evident at tliis point, from which the E. and W. windows are both visible. In the S. transept remark the uioumnent of Richard Watts, of Satis, the hater of proctors, and one of the great benefactors of Eochester (see his Hospital, in the High Street, post). The coloured bust, " starting oiit of it, like a ship's tigin-e-head," is said to have been taken from the life. The Choir itself, which underwent a complete remodelling in 1825-30, under the direction of Mr. Cotting- ham, is entered by a flight of steps, rendered necessary, as at Canter- biu-y, by the height of the crj'pt below. It is said to have been first used at the consecration of Bp. Heni-y de Sandford, 1227 ; and is thoroughly developed E. E., al- though much has evidently been borrowed, even in detail, from the Canterbury transition work (1174- 1184). It is narrow, and somewhat heavy ; defects not lightened by the woodwork of the stalls, which is indifferent, or by the use of colour ; a single line of which, however, is carried along the ribs of the vault- ing with very good effect. The brackets of E. E. foliage, from which the blind wall-arches spring, should be noticed. Two larger ones especially, at the angles of the E. transept, are excellent specimens of this period, before the naturalism of the Dec. had begun to develop itself. A fragment of mural paint- ing, apparently of the same date as the choir itself, remains on the wall, close above the pulpit. The paint- ing, when entire, is said to have re- presented a subject not uncommon in early chiuches, — the Wheel of Fortune, with various figures, — king, priest, husbandman, (S;c. — climbing it. Passing into theiV. Choir Transept, still E. E., and perhaps a part of Eastgate's work, the first point of interest is St. William's Tomb, at the N.E. corner. It is of Purbeck, with a floriated cross ; and there are con- siderable remains of ornamental painting in the recess of the arch above. Its date is not clear ; but the tomb is certaijily later than the beginning of the 13th cent., to which time the legend of St. William belongs. He is said to have been a Scottish baker, from Perth, who had undertaken a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, intending to visit the Canter- bury shrine on bis way. On the Watling Street, however, a short dis- tance beyond Chatham, he fell in with thieves, always on the look-out for wealthy pilgrims ; and his mur- dered body was brought back and solemrdy interred in the cathedral here. Numerous miracles were wrought at his tomb ; and the shrine of St. William, borrowing a reflected glory from that of Becket, to which the pilgrim was bound, speedily eclipsed in reputation, and in the nundjcr of votaries it attracted, that of St. Paulinus, which had hitherto been the great pride of Eochester. Toward the centre of the transept is a flat stone marked with 6 crosses, upon which St. William's shrine is said to have rested. The steps which descend into the N. aisle of the choir are, as at Canterbmy, Kent. Route 2. — Rochester — Cathedral. 39 deeply worn by the constant ascent of pilgrims, with whose oblations Prior William de Hoo (1239) built tlie choir Vj. of the transepts. St. William was duly canonized in 1256. His deatli is placed in 1201. Of his previoiis life nothing whatever is known. W. of St. William's tomb is that oiBp. Walter de Medon (1274-1278), who completed his foundation of Merton College, Oxford, in the year of his election to this bishopric. He was drowned here, whilst crossing the Medway at night in an open boat. The tomb, wliieh is very beautiful early Dec. has been well and carefidly restored at the expense of Merton College. The slab, with its cross, is entirely modern. The effigy of Bji. Merton, which formerly lay on this tomb, is now placed in an adjoining recess. It is not earlier than the reign of Henry VII., and was executed at Limoges, at a cost, says Warton, of Qll. 14s. 6tL It is in red veined marble, tlie coloiu- of which was long hidden imdej- suc- cessive coats of whitewash. Opposite is the plain altar-tomb of Bp. Lowe (1444-1468). In a chapel E. of tliis transept are the tombs of Bp. Warner (1637-1666), the founder of Bromley College, and of Archd. Warner, 1679. Under an arch dividing this chapel from the choir is the very interesting monu- ment of Bp. John de Sheppey (1352- 1361), probably the most perfect specimen of ancient colouring now existing in England. It had been bricked \ip within the arch where it still remains ; and was discovered during the repairs in 1825. The colours and ornaments deserve the most carefid attention as well for their own beauty as for their great value as authorities (all tlie details of this effigy are well figured in Archxologia, vol. xxv.). In tlie maniple, hung over tlie left arm, some of the crystals with wliich it was studded still remain. Itemark the conchant dogs at the feet of the bishop. Aliout their necks are scarlet collars, hnng with bells. An in- scription, with the bishop's name, surrounds the effigy. An iron rail- ing, of the same date, with his ini- tials, J. S., has been brought from another part of the Cathedral, and placed in front of the moniunent. The large branching fiuials are good. The short Sacruriuin, or Chancel, E. of the transepts, is possibly that referred to as having been built by Prior William de^Hoo (1239), although it has undergone consider- able alterations ; the last " restora- tion " having taken place between 1825 and 1830, under the direction of Mr. Cottingham, when the win- dows at the E. end, which had hitherto been concealed by an altar- screen, were uncovered and re- newed. They are Dec, and exhibit an arrangement of great beauty and interest. The other windows, also Dec, were renewed at the same time. The Chancel walls are, however, E. E., and perhaps the original work of Prior de Hoo. The stone vaidt- ing, both of chancel and choir, is of E. E. date ; and although consi- derably later, shoidd be compared witli that of Canterbury. During Mr. Cottingluim's restoration, the walls were scraped and pointed ; an operation which has by no means rendered their appearance more ve- nerable. The shrine of St. Pauli- nus, which here seems to have taken the place usually assigned to the altar of the Virgin, is thought to have occupied a central jDOsition im- mediately between the E. walls of the transepts. The monuments are (beginning at the N.W. cornQr)~Bp. Gilhert de Glanville (1185-1215), shrine-.'-liaped, with medallions on the sloping- cover ; the work of which was ai^i^a- rently never finished. It is perhaps questionable whether tliis remark- able monument is not of earlier date than Bp. Glanville, to whom it has 40 Route 1. — Rochester — Cathedral. Sect. I. been assigned. E. is the monument of Bp. Lawrence de St. Martin (1251- 1274). Tlie richly wrought canopy iiljove the effigy is an excellent speci- men of early Dec. It was tliis bishop who procm-ed the canonization of St. William. In the N. wall beyond (an imusual position) is an early Dec. piscina. On the S. side of the Chancel, next the altar, is a tomli of plain marble which has been called that of Ep. GiinduJf (]On-UOS), tiie builder of the Norm, portion of the Cathedral, and of the Castle of Eochester. It is without mark or inscription. Beyond is the monument with effigy, of Bp. Inglethorpe (12S3-12n). In the wall below are 3 sedilia of Dec. character, restored in 1825. In the E. wall of the S. choir tran- sept is one of the great glories of the Cathedral, the Chapter-house door, of which a cast, very questionably coloured, exists in the palace at Sydenham. It is late Dec. work, and was restored by Mr. Cottiug- ham in 1830. The principal figures on either side represent the Jewish Church, leaning on a broken reed, blindfolded, and holding in her riglit hand the iipturned tables of the law ; and the Christian, standing erect with cathedral and crozier. The other figures have been variously explained. The 4 lower ones, seated, possibly represent the Fathers of the Church. Above, on either side, appear angels, rising from what seem to be purgatorial flames, and jjray- ing for the "pure soul" represented by the small naked figure at the point of the arch. If the meaning is obscure, the work is of great ex- cellence, and deserves careful notice. The oaken door within the arch is modern. The Chapter-house, into which this door opens, is a modern addition, and serves also as the Lihrary of the Cathedi-al. Here is preserved the MS. of the Textus Roffensis, a collection of records, gifts, and ancient privileges of the Church of Eochester, compiled under the direction of Bp. Ernulfus (1115-1125). This venerable MS. has undergone considerable i:)erils ; having at one time been stolen, and only restored to the Chapter by the aid of a decree in Chancery ; and on another occasion having fallen into the Thames, whence it was rescued witli no small difficrdty. The Cus- fiunule Boffense, a MS". of not less importance, is also preserved here. Under the transept window ad- joining the Chapter-house is an ' unknown tomb, marked with a cross. The destruction of the original Chap- ter-house has here thrown the shafts nuieli out of the perpencheular. Ee- mark the horizontal oaken roof, temp. Edw. I., studded with corbel heads and bosses. It is, perhaps, unique, and certainly tlie most valuable instance of the kind in England. A steep flight of stairs, strongly recaUing Canterbury, leads from this transept to the Ciiapel called St, Edmund's S. of the Choir. The defaced effigy in the N. wall is sup- posed to be that of Bp. John de Bradfield (1278-1283). From St. Edmund's Chapel we enter the Cn/^yf, which extends under the whole of the Choir. The W. and E. parts are evidently of much earlier date than the central, which is E. E., and of the same period as the Choir above. In building this the ancient Crypt was probably broken througli, and in part recon- structed. The earlier portions are ilis- tinguished by very massive piers and circular arches. "Between the piers are small pillars with jilain, broad capitals. It is not impossible that this part of the Crypt may date from before the Conquest. At all events it is the earliest portion of the ex- isting Cathedi-al, and cannot be later than the work of Bp. CUmdidf. Traces of former altars, and of ex- tensive nnn-al painting, remain in different parts of the Cryjit. There are no monuments. Kent. Route 2. — Rochester — P, nory. 41 The internal dimensions of the Cathedral are — ft. Total length from W. to E. . 310 „ of Nave . . . 150 „ of Choir . . . 156 Western transept, N. to S. . 123 Eastern or Clioir transept . 95 Breadth of Nave and Choir (including the aisles j . . 68 Of the Bps. of Rochester who have found resting-places elsewhere than in their own Cathedral, the most re- markable are — Jolui Fislier ( 1504- 1535), the feUow suflerer witli Sir Tliomas More, wliose Cardinal's hat arrived in England some days after the head that should have worn it had fallen on Tower Hill. He was bm-ied in the Tower. Nicholas Ridley (1517-1550), in which last year he was translated to London, and mar- tyred with Latimer in 1555. Thomas Hpratt (1684-1713), the hero of the famous " flower-pot " treason at Bromley (see Macaulaij, H. E. iii.), bm-ied in Westminster Abbey. His successor, Francis Atterbury, the friend and correspondent of Pope, who died in exile, 1732 ; and Samuel Horsley (1793-1802). The diocese of Rochester was, until recently, the smallest in England, consisting only of 99 parishes in the W. division of Kent, and of one or two outlying dis- tricts or " peculiars." It now com- prises the whole of Essex, and great part of Hertfordshire. Danbury Pa- lace, the episcopal residence pur- chased by the Ecclesiastical Com- missioners, is in the former county. Returning to the exterior of the Cathedral, the chief point to be noticed is Guudulf s Totcer at the E. end of the N. transept. It is Norm., and was probably built as the record tower and treasiu-y of Gundulfs Cathedral. (Comp. St. Andi-ew's Tower, Canterbury, the date and position of whicli are nearly the same.) The walls are 6 ft. thick, and the tower seems to have con- tained 2 chambers, each about 24 ft. square. It has been suggested that the original entrance was from the top. In the S.W. angle of the N.E. transept is a newel stair, from the top of which an arch is thrown to the summit of tlie tower, across an open space of 10 ft. This- arrangement, evidently intended for the secmity and defence of the re- cord tower, is curious and miusual. There are at present 2 narrow en- trances into the ch. from the S. side of the tower ; of later date, however, if tlie above suggestion be correct. The greater part of the central tower dates from 1825, when it was raised under the direction of Mr. Cottingham. It can hardly be pro- nounced satisfactory. A small por- tion immediately above the roof is the work of Bp. John de Sheppey (1352). Of the Priory of St. Andrew, coeval with the ch., and re-estab- lished by Gundulf, almost the only remains are in the garden of the Deanery, where is a small fragment of the cloister wall, supporting some window arches of the old chapter- house. This is all Norm., and the recorded work of Ernulf, Gundulfs successor. The diajDer in front is also found at Canterbury (where Ernulf was prior before his removal to Rochester, and where he built much), on the wall of the passage leading to the crypt from the Martyr- dom transept. The lower arches, now closed, opened into an area below the chapter-house, used as a place of interment more than usually honourable. The signs of the zodiac enrich the central arch. On a smaller one adjoining are the words " Aries per curnua," the only part of the in- scriittion still legible. Within the Deanery, at the foot of the staircase, is an arcade, very closely resembling that on the ex- terior of St. Auselni's Tower, Canter- bury, also the work of Ernulf. The Deanery occupies the site of the E. end of tlie chapter-house. 42 Route 2. — Rochester — Castle. Sect. I. Tlie ancient Episcopal Palace licre was at the S.E. corner of the pre- cincts. Since the Reformation the bishops have resided altogether at Bromley, where, however, their palace, called by Horace Walpole a "paltry parsonage," has ceased to buloag to them since the eidargement of the see, and the conseqnent pur- chase of Danbury. Scarcely second in interest to the Cathedral, which rises close imder its walls, and found it more than once a dangerous neighbour, is the Castle. The present Norm, keep no doubt oc- cupies the site of an earlier fortress. It stands at the S.W. angle of the city walls, and was surrounded on three sides by a deep fosse, which may still be partly traced. On the fourth runs the Mcdway. Much of the outer walls, with square open towers re- curring at intervals (,Comp. Dover), also exists. The main entrance to the outer ballium was on the N.E. side, from which there was an easy descent to the High Street. The whole work is assigned to Bj). Gun- dulf, whose skill in military archi- tecture Avas also displayed in the White Tower of London, and in some parts of the keep at Dover. The .3 Norm, keeps of Colchester, Norwich, and Canterbury, are all larger than Rochester. Newcastle is smaller. None of these, however, show the original arrangement bet- ter than Rochester, and no English ruin of tins period gives a more powerful impression of ancient gran- deur. The keep forms a quadrangle, more tl ran 70 ft. square, and about 100 high. At each angle is a but- tress tower, 12 ft. square, and rising- above the principal mass. Attached to the E. angle is a smaller tower, about 2-.3rds the height of the otlier, and 28 ft. square. In this was the grand entrance, by a flight of steps, and an arched gateway, enriched. This and the other arches are of Caen stone. The mass of the walls, on an average 12 ft. thick, is of Kentish rag. The large tower contained 3 stories of lofty apartments, and a vault be- neath. A partition-wall divides the building in the centre, and in it is a well, 2 ft. 9 in. in diameter, running through all the stories from the top. Into the first story, over the vaults or store-rooms, the outward door of the grand entrance opened from a kind of vestibule in the smaller tower. This was divided from the rooms in the great tower by a port- cullis. (Remark the groove in the main wall, passing through to the next story. It is well worked. Frag- ments of iron staples still remain in the stone-work of both entrances.) The rooms in this story are about 20 ft. high. In the E. angle, adjoining the entrance, a broad winding staircase ascends to the second story, on which were the rooms of state, 32 ft. high. The central wall of partition here supports 3 massive circular columns, forming 4 grand arches. The rooms have fireplaces witli enriched arches, the smoke from which passed through wall - openings near the hearth. A narrow arched passage in the wall runs quite round the tower in this story. The size and general arrangements of the entire keep are perhaps best seen from here. From the fh/'nl story, to which the stairs ascend, a noble view is commanded, including the winding river, the towns on its banks, the Cathedral and its close, and reach- ing as far as the junction of the Medway with the Thames. Remark, throughout, the wonder- ful strength and massive character of the masonry. The view looking into the tower, from under the main entrance, should be sought by the artist aV)0ut mid-day, when the sun has risen above the walls. An extremely beautiful eftect is then produced by the streaming of the light across the great pillai's, at the bases of which grow thick masses of Kext. Route 2. — Rochester — Castle. 43 " greenery." The wall of the keep beyond remains in deep shadow. The ruin, which at present beloiigs to the Earl of Jersey, is well kept and its different passages may be examined with perfect safety. The single red pink {Dianthus prolifer), grows wild on some parts of the Castle. From the top of the keep the tourist looks down, S., on Boley Hill, rising above the river, close to tlie Castle. Here, under an elm-tree, the corporation liold a separate conrt- leet for this district. Much of this hill is perhaps artificial ; but a lofty mound on one side is certainly so. Similar mounds are fovmd in con- nection with the defences of other Norm, keeps, as at Canterbury (in the Dane John) and at Oxford. (In more recent fortification such mounds were called Cavaliers : there is one in the citadel at Antwerp.) On Boley Hill is the house of Satis (rebuilt, however), once the resi- dence of the proctor-hating Master Watts, who entertained Queen Ehza- beth here during the last day of her stay in Eochester. To his expres- sions of regret at having no better accommodation to otfer, her Majesty was graciously pleased to reply "Satis,'' by which name the house has ever since been known. Nume- rous Roman remains have from time to time been discovered on Boky Hill. The History of the Castle is as follows : — Odo of Bayeux, who had been banislied by tiie Conqueror, re- turned on the accession of Rufus, in 1087, and was confirmed by the king in his former Earldom of Kent, to which Roclicster was attached. A fresh quarrel, however, broke out between him and William II., wlio at last besieged and took the Castle of Rochester, which seems to have received considerable damage. The king, who is said to have suspected the loyalty of Gundnlf, then Bp. of Rochester, insisted on his building a " tower of stone," at his own ex- pense, within tlic Castle. To this the Bp. consented, after much opposi- tion, and the existing keep was com- menced by him, though in all prol)a- bility not completed during his life. The Abps. of Canterbury were aiipoiuted Constables of Eochester Castle by Henry I. ; but during the troubles of Stephen's reign it passed from them and was never restored. It remained in the hands of the Crown, by which the constables were appointed, until after tlie accession of Henry VII., when, owing to the increased use of artillery, it became of little importance, and was ac- cordingly suSered to fall to ruin. James I. granted the site to Sir Anthony Weldon, and it has since passed tlirough various hands. It is now the property of the Earl of Jersey. Eochester Castle was the first for- tress invested and reduced by Louis of France after his invasion of Eng- land in the last year of King John. The whole of the outworks of the Castle were taken by Simon de Montfort in 12G4 ; but after 7 days' close siege to the existing keep- tower, defended for the king by Eoger de Leyborne, Earl Simon was compelled to return disai:)i)ointed to London. The visitor should walk quite round the Castle, both outside and inside the walls, for the sake of the many picturesque points of view in which it presents itself. There is a pleasant j)ublic walk, planted with trees, under the wall, above the Med way. After visiting the Castle and Ca- tliedral the tourist will soon com- plete his researches in Eochester. The Church of St. Nicholas, adjoin- ing the Cathedral, was rebuilt in l(j24, and is a favourable specimen of debased Gothic. In St. Margaret's, N. of the Castle, is a brass with semi-effigy of Thomas Codd, vicar, 1464. A remarkable bust, or corbel, 44 Eoute 2. — Bochester — ]\att^^ Hospital. fSect. I. projectiug from the E. wall, shovdd ;ilso be noticed. The gilt Clod:, ■wliicli projects into the High Street, "as if Time canied on business there, and hung out his sign," was the gift of Sir Cloudeslev Shovel, 1706. The Townhall below it (iu which is Sir Cloudesley's por- trait) dates from 1687, and assists, with other brick fronts and heavy cornices, in producing a certain air of bag- wig and ruilles felt through- out the street, in spite of the shrimps and soldiers. To this the recol- lection of James II. 's detention here may possibly contribute. The house he is said to have occupied is pointed out a short distance below the clock, and on the same side. It is now faced with dark brick, but has been modernized. There is a passage through the garden behind to the river, b}' wliich the king pro- ceeded on board the tender. On the S. side of the street is Rlcliard Watts Hospitcd, founded in 1579, and to be recognised by its remarkable inscription, which de- clares that " six poor travellers may receive here lodging, entertainment, and fourpence each, for one night, provided they are not rogues nor proctors." The house is apparently little changed ; although it would appear that but little of it is at pre- sent assigned to the " poor travel- lers," who are now "lodged," but not " entertained," iu " two little outer galleries at the back." "I had been a little startled, in the cathe- dral," says a writer who has conferred not the least of its distinctions on Eochester, "by the emphasis with whicli the efiBgy of Master Eichard Watts was bursting out of his tomb ; but I began to tliink, now, that it jniglit be expected to come across the High Street some stormy night, and make a distmbance here." " About a tliirtieth part of the annual revenue is now expended on the pm- poses commemorated iu the inscrip- tion over tiie door: the rest being handsomely laid out in Chancery, law expenses, coUectorship, receiver- ship, poundage, and other append- ages of management, highly compli- mentaiy to the impoiiance of the six Poor Travellers. In short, I made the not entii-ely new discovery that it may be said of an establishment like this, iu dear old England, as of the fat oyster m the American story, that it takes a good many men to swallow it whole." — Hiyisehold Words, vol. X. " The prescribed nmuber of Poor Travellers are forthcoming every night from year's end to year's end ; and the beds are always oc- cupied." AMiat injury Master Watts had received at the hands of proc- tors is altogether unknown. A remarkable house of earlier date (now a schoolj should be noticed a short distance below the hospital. There are vaulted cellars of perhaps E. E. date imder the Crown and George Inns, the latter of which has elaborately carved bosses and cor- bels. Some portions of the ancient city walls, in which are great quan- tities of Eoman bricks, may still be traced. They are most perfect near- the S.E. angle. Eochester has no trade or manu- facture worth specifj'ing. Tlie cor- poration possesses extensive oyster fisheries in the creeks and inlets at the mouth of the Medway, and regu- lates, by a jmy of free dredgers, the time of opening, stocking, and shut- ting them. From 40,000/. to 50,000/. annually i^ass thi-ough the hands of this jurj-. The inhabitants of Eochester share, ■nith those of the adjoining to^vns, the appellation of " Kentish loug-taUs." In retiun for having docked the tails of Abp. Bccket's horses, that irascible saint is said to have bestowed caudal ai:)pendages on all the posterity of the evil-doers, a pmiishment which seems to have been in some favom- with mcdiajval thaumaturgists. Another version as- serts that tiie Kentish appendages Kent. Route 2. — Chatham — Doch/ard. 45 first appeared after the men of Ro- chester had insulted St. Augustine by hanging- fishes' tails to his robe. A similar story is told of St. Boniface during his preaching in Friesland. If Rochester, during her earlier period, sent forth no very dis- tinguished sons, she has made ample amends by the most recent of her "illustrations." " Non ubi nascor, sed ubi pascor," is, says old Fuller, the rule to be observed in apportion- ing each worthy to his respective locality; and even supposing that Mr. Dickens was not actually born here, he has himself told us that it was here the earliest years of his life were passed ; here that he pored over the pages of Fielding and Smollett, under the mouldering walls of the Castle, and listened eagerly to the old-world legends which peopled the surrounding woods and river-sides. His early recollections have borne fruit in his first great story, and in numerous touches and allusions .scattered tliroughout his works : and have at lengih led him to fix his summer residence in the neighbour- hood, at Gad's- Hill, where the me- mories of Shakspeare will henceforth be not inappropriately associated with the home of perhaps the most thoroughly PJnglish-hearted of mo- dern writers. Mr. Pickwick's description, how- ever applicable to Rochester, is in- finitely more so to Chatham (Ccetta's ham or home: Inn, tlie Sun ; a very good one, and close to the pier, at which steamers touch many tinu's daily, on their way to Sheerncss), a long, dirty street, parallel with the Mcdway, swarming with soldiers and Jews, and power- fully odorous of shrimps and tobacco. Numerous Roman remains have been found lure ; but the importance of Chatham is due originally to its Doclajard, established here by Eliza- beth, and pronounced by Camden " the best-appointed arsenal the sun ever saw." This had become of con- siderable extent when the Dutch made their famous attack here in 1GG7. It was afterwards much en- larged from time to time, and is now one of the most important establish- ments in the kingdom. The yard is nearly 1 m. in length, and contains 4 wet docks capable of receiving the largest vessels. One of these, a tidal basin, 400 ft. by '.W> ft., the largest dock in eitlier of tlio public naval establishments, has just (1857) been completed. It is floored and lined with huge blocks of gra- nite ; and the largest first-rate in the service can enter it "all standing." Another, and somewhat smaller, basin is still in progress. The dock- j'ard is walled, and defended bj-strong modern fortifications. The arrange- ment of the storehouses is admirable, and a first-rate man-of-war may lie equijjped for sea in a few days. — In the mast-house, 240 ft. long, 120 wide, masts are deposited 3 ft. in diam. and 40 yards high. The timber for making them is ke])t ttoating in 2 great ba.sins. — Tlie rope-house is 1110 ft. long by 50 wide. Cables of great dimensions — • some 100 fathoms long, and 25 in. in circmnf.- — are twisted here by the ai<l of powerful machinery. — The sinitli's shop, where anchors of the largest size are made, contains 40 forges. At the N.E. of the yard are the Saui-miUs, erected under the superin- tendence of Mr. Brunei, and worked with powerful steam machinery. In the sawing-room are S saw-frames, each capable of carrying from 1 to 30 saws ; and 2 circular-saw benches, with windlasses and capstans for sup- pljang them with wood ; the whole set in motion by an engine pro- ducing 80 strokes of the saws in a minute. N. of the mills is a canal passing into an elliptic basin, from which the timber, having been floated into the basin from the river, is rajiidly raised by machinery. On iron pipes, laid down for sup- 46 Route 2. — Chatham — Attack of the Dutch Fleet. Sect. I. ])lyiiig the yard with water, are firc- jjlugs, from which, when opened, a jet-d'eau rises above the roofs of tlie liighest buildings. The Gun Wharf, or small Arsenal, adjoining the Dockyard, is rather a storehonse than a great manxifactory of military engines, like the Arsenal at Woolwich. It contains a large jiark of artillery. The great event in the history of Chatham and its dockyard is by no means tlie most honourable recorded in British history — the bm'ning by the Dutch fleet of many English ships of war lying here in ordinary. On the 7th of June, 16G7, De Ruyter, with a fleet of GO ships of the line, anchored at the month of the Thames. The English vessels in that river, however, having received timely notice, had retired above Gravesend ; and the Dutch admiral accordingly commenced operations in the Medway, first attacking the little fort at Sheerness, which was abandoned after a defence of an hour and a half. Although the pre- parations and object of the enemy liad been long known, scarcely any defence had been organised. " The alarm," says Evelyn {Diary, vol. ii.), "was so great that it put both country and city into a panic fear and consternation, such as I hope I shall never see more ; everybody was fly- ing, none knew why or whither." Mr. Pepys judiciously buried his gold and valuables. (See, for ample and curi- ous details, his Diary, vol. iii.) There was, in fact, nothing to prevent De Ruyter from destroying every town and vessel in the Thames or on its banks ; and it was not until the 10th of June, after the attack on Sheer- ness had commenced, that the Duke of Albemarle went down to Graves- end "to take order for the defence ;" where, says Mr. Pepys, " I found him just come, with a great many idle lords and gentlemen, with tlieir pistols and fooleries, — and the bul- wark not able to have stood half an hour had the Dutch come up." — " We do plainly at this time hear tlie guns play,* "he continues. This was the attack on Sheerness ; after the fall of which the Zealand and Frieseland ships joined De Ruyter, whose fleet, now 72 ships of the line, blockaded the mouths of the 2 rivers. The attack on the ships at Chatham was made on the 12th of June. The English fleet lay between Gillingham and Chat- ham, — within the chain that at Gillingham Fort stretched across the river. Two large ships, the " Matthias " and " Charles V.," were placed as near this defence as pos- sible, so as to bring their broadsides to bear on the enc my. The chain, however, was speedily broken ; and the 2 guard-vessels set in flames by fire-ships. The next day, the 12th, 3 80-gun ships, " the largest and most powerful of England," which lay ott" Upnor Castle, were also de- stroyed by the Dutch fire-ships, — the final attempt of the enemy in the Medway. 22 large vessels were lying at Chatham when the chain was broken ; and, considering the utter want of preparation on our side, it is only wonderful that the vast Dutch armament did not prove far more destructive. Except recon- noitring, however, they did nothing until the 25th July, when a skirmish between Dutch and English fire- ships took place in the Hope, — the enemy losing 11, and the English 8. De Ruyter hovered about the coast for some days after, and then retired. The " Roj^al Oak," one of the great ships ])urnt at Upnor, was com- manded by Captain Douglas, who shared its fate, saying it was " never known that a Douglas left his post without orders. ' Every possible rmiform is to be seen in the streets of Chatham. The principal barracks extend along the side of the river, and contain accom- modation for more than 3000 men. Fort Pitt, on the hill overlooking Kent. Route 2. — Brompton. — Chatham Lines. 47 the town, dates from the end of the last century, and, besides a barrack of some size, contains a well-arranged military hospital. One of the " am- bulances " used throughout the Pe- ninsular war, and so constructed as to be taken in pieces for carriage on mule-back, is preserved here. There is also a Museum, formed by contri- butions from both services. In it is a very beautifid collection of Ja- maica fruits modelled in wax. The specimens of fish and reptiles are good ; and there is a series of human crania from different parts of tlie world, of considerable importance. The gardens of the fort are well kept, and command a very fine view over the town and river. Eemark the machicoules of the principal tower : they occur in the Nineveh marbles, and maybe traced downwartl through all succeeding military architecture to that of the present time. Chatham contains little of general interest unconnected with its dock- yard or barracks. The Church was rebuilt in 1788, and i^ naturally hideous. In the nave is a brass (without effigy) for Stephen Borough (d. 1584), of Northam, in Devon- shire, the " discoverer of Muscovia by the Northern Sea passage to Archangel," in 1553. S. of the High Street is the Chapel of St. Burtholo- meiv's Hospital, the only existing relic of this foundation for lepers established by Bp. Guudulf. The E. end alone is ancient, having an apse with 3 circular-headed windows, probably part of the original struc- ture. Sc7- John Hawkins's Hospital, founded by him in 1592 for decayed mariners and shipwriglits, stands in the High Street. A house with carved front in this street is pointed out as having been the residence of the Petts, the great shipbuilders of the IGth and 17th cents. The Chatham Chest, a fund for the relief of sailors, supplied by small contributions from their pay, was planned jointly by Sir John Hawkins and Sir Francis Drake, after the defeat of the Armada. Brompton, a handet in Gillinghara parish, E. of Chatham, is comjjletely enveloped in the coutiuuous and ex- tensive fortified lines constructed for the defence of the Dockyard and Gun Wharf. These lines enclose a superb naval hospital, barracks for the Royal Marines light infantry, barracks and hospital for the line, which aft'ord accommodation for 4000 or 5000 men, and barracks with stables for the Royal Engineers. These last have been hitherto known as Bromptmi Barracks. From their situation aud style of building alone they deserve notice ; but there are other objects connected with them and the service more wortliy of attention. It is here tliat tlie corps is instructed prac- tically in their special duties of sap- ping, mining, pontooning, &c. &c. Their models merit a minute inspec- tion ; and it is seldom that a day passes on which some interesting field-operation may not be witnessed. The Museum, on the N. side of the barrack square, besides the models already noticed, illustrating attacks of fortified places, construction of bridges, &c., contains relics of the "Royal George" — a "dead-eye," masts, and cable. The sappers em- ployed on the wreck were exercised here in diving for some time before- hand. Here is also preserved a piece of the chevaux-de-frise surmounted by the forlorn-hope at Badajoz. The famous sword-blades (at least in this fragment) are not swords at all, but narrow iron spikes like railing-tops, about 1 ft. in length. Chatham Lines, the fortifications enclosing the dockyard and barracks, were commenced in 1758, and com- pleted about 1807. They are of unusual merit, and are particularly worthy of minute inspection by the military man. They encircle a con- siderable stretch of ground, including tlie village of Brompton, running down to the Medway at either ex- 48 Route 2. — Gillingham. — Hoo. Sect. I. tremity. One of the cemeteries of Roman Rochester, and traces of ex- tensive viUas, were discovered dming iheir formation. On and abont these lines take place the field operations, imitation-battles, and grand reviews, which are the distiugnishing glories of Chatham. On these occasions the admiring spectators may still •see, as Mr. Pickwick saw, " sentries posted to keep the ground for the troops, and servants on the batteries keejiiiig pUices for the ladies, and sergeants running to and fro with vellum-covered books under their arms, and Colonel Bulder in full military uniform, on horseback, gal- loping first to one place and tlien to another, and backing liis horse among the people, and prancing and curvetting and shouting in a most alarming manner, and making him- self very hoarse in the voice, and very red in the face, without any assignable cause or reason what- ever." Whilst enjoying the smell of the " villanous saltpetre," however, the visitor will do well to bear in mind the awful situation in which Mr. Pickwick found himself liere, and to take up a position in which he will neither be exposed to the terrors of blank cartridges, nor to the rusli of a charging regiment. 1 m. E. of Brompton, above the river marshes, is the village of GUliiiijhaiii, famous for its clicriy- gardens. The name occurs also in Dorsetshire and Norfolk ; and is thought by Mr. Kemble to indicate an ancient settlement of the Saxon " Gillingas," M'hose primitive loca- tion was, perhajis, Gilling in York- shire. The manor was one of those attached to the see of Canter- bury before the Conquest. Tlie Church has portions ranging from E. E. to Pei-ji. The font "is Norm., and very curious. The whole build- ing exhibits the remains (much neg- lected) of a very fine church. A niche over the porch (E. E.) is pointed out as having contained the figure of " Our Lady of Gillingham," pilgrimages to whom were much in request. In the churchyard remark the pictiu'esque ruin of an elm. On the S. side are some remains of the archiepiscopal palace, appa- rently a hall, with traces of Dec. windows. It is now converted into a barn, 110 ft. by 30 ft. At each end is a wide fireplace. At Grange, ^ m. beyond the ch., is a small Peiii. chapel, now used as an outhouse. It was built by Sir John Philipott, temp. Rich. II., present with the king (as Lord Mayor) during liis interview with Wat Tyler, in whose death he bore a part. Gillingham was the scene of a fierce battle between Edmund Iron- side and Knut the Dane. William Adams, the first real discoverer of Japan, in 1598, was born here. " He who reads his voyage," says Fuller, " will concur with Cato, and repent that ever he went thither by sea, whither one might go by land. But Japan being an island, and unacees- sible save by sea, our Adams his discretion was not to be blamed, but industry to be commended, in his adventures." GiU'mgham Fort, on the river, was built by Charles I., but is of no great importance. The churches in the hundred of Hoo, on the Mcdway, opposite Ro- chester, may best be visited from Strood. The district, however, con- tains little to attract the tourist. The Church of Hoo (5 m. from Strood) is dedicated to St. Werburgh of Mercia, who, although she drove by her prayers the " wild geese " from her fields at Weedon, in North- amptonshire, has certainly not ex- pelled them from Hoo. Wild fowl of all kinds abound in the marshes here during the winter. The spire of the ch., which is Perp., serves as a landmark, and is seen, 1., on its comparatively high ground {Hov — Kent. Route 2. — Cohham Hall. 49 Anglo-Saxon, a hill), in descending the Medway. The Churches of St. Mary, Hul- stoiv, and All Hallows, were originally chapelries attached to Hoo ; and although difficult of access, may per- haps repay examination. Churches belonging to Hoo are noticed in Domesday Book, which were pro- bably in these parishes. Stoke, seen from the river, is Perp., and contains no monuments of interest. The little Church of St. James in the Isle of Grain, at the extremity of the headland, will be best visited from Sheerness. It was attached to the nunnery of Minster in Sheppey before the reign of Edward I. Brass, John Hykk and wife, 1494. The cxcTirsion of most interest to be made from Rochester is that to 5 m. Cohham Hall (Earl of Darn- ley), which, together with Cobham Church, will amply repay the labours of the tourist, who from here may visit the Churches of Shorne and Chalk ; and retiu-n to Rochester Ijy Gads Hill. The Walk from Rochester(through tlie woods of the park) is a very pleasant one. Visitors from London should take an early steamer to Gravesend, and drive from thence by Shorne to Cobham. The house and pictiu-e-gallery are open only on Fridays. Cards of ad- mission must be procured at Mac- aulay's, bookseller, in the Higli St., Rochester; or at Cadell's library, Gravesend. Is. each is cliarged for these cards, which prevent all fees to the housekeeper. The money thus realised is bestowed on the parish-school at Cobham. The plan is altogether an excellent one, and deserves to be generally imitated. Cobham was the principal re- sidence of the family of the same name before the first year of King John. Tliey were the great lords of all this district ; frequently Sheriffs [Kent &• Sussex.] of Kent, and Constables of Rochester Castle ; until Sir John de Cobham, the builder of Rochester Bridge and founder of the College here, died, toward the end of the 14th cent., leaving as the heiress of all his honours an only grand-daughter, Joan De la Poole. This lady dis- posed of five husbands ; one of whom was the famous Sir John Oldcastle, who assumed the title of Lord Cob- ham in right of his wife. By her second husband she left an onh^ daughter, Joan, who became heiress in her turn. Lady Joan married Sir Thomas Brooke of Somersetshire, by whom she had a family of 10 sons ; and tlie estates of Cobham continued in the house of Brooke until the attainder of Henry Lord Cobham in the first 3'ear of James I., when the whole of the confiscated estates were granted by the Crown to Lodowick Stewart, Earl of Len- nox. Througli his descendant, Lady Catherine O'Brien, they passed to Lord Clifton and Cornbury ; and on his death in 1713 to his heiress, Lady Theodosia Hyde, whose hus- band, John Bligh, Esq., was after- wards created Earl of Darnley. His representatives have continued Lords of Cobham. Cobham has entertained the usual allowance of royal guests. Eliza- beth lodged hero for some time on one of her progresses; and Charles I. and Henrietta IMaria, after their marriage at Canterbury, slept here on their way to London ; the royal pairfinding"allthe highways strewed with roses, and all manner of sweet flowers." There was no sign then of the evil days in store, when Colonel Sands' trooi>ers (1G43) pillaged the Hall, and sent off 5 waggons loaded with spoil to London. The Hall itself stands toward the centre of the Park, on low ground encircled by wooded hills, toward which avenues of stately oak, elm, and lime trees extend themselves in long vistas. It is approached by a r^oute 2. — Cohham Hall. Sect. L Tudor gateway, and consists of a cen- tre and two wings ; the mass of the liouse being of brick and Elizabeilian (1582-1594), the work of Sir William Brooke, Lord Cobliam ; and the re- mainder, including the centre, addi- tions by Inigo Jones during the regime of the Stewarts, Earls of Len- nox. The two very distinct styles harmonise but indifferently. "Whilst the wings preserve the characteristics of the later Tudor style — projecting muUioncd windows, octagonal tur- rets, quaintly-carved cornices, and ornamented doorways — Jones s front is a ijlaiu facade, with Corinthian pilasters. But these incongruities are not percei^tible from the high road, and do not interfere with the general outlines of the structure, which are those of a half H. The southern front, though exhibiting large portions of the building re- erected by the foiu-th Earl of Darn- ley, is eminently Elizabethan in character ; and the rich tones of the red brick, contrasted with the various tinted foliage surrouiuhng the house, offer the finest studies of colour. No class of buildings is half so suggestive of English domestic comfort as the brick structures of the age of Eliza- beth. Cobham Hall is essentially of this period, though it has under- gone much re-construction." — Fdix Sunmierley . The principal apart- ments through which the visitor is conducted are, the Great Dinin<j Room, with pannelled walls and ceil- ing; the Gilt Hall, or music-room, containing a single and superb Van- dyck (the portraits of Lord John and Lord Bernard Stewart). The decorations of this room are temp. Louis XIV. The chimneypiece has a bas-relief after Guidos Aurora, sculptured by the father of the late Sir Eichard Westmacott. The Li- hranj, where are numerous portraits of English worthies, "of which the panel inscribed ' Sir Philip Sidney, who writ the Arcadia,' is probably the only genuine and original pahit- ing:'—F. S. The Portrait Gallery; and, finally, the Picture Gallery,. 136 ft. by 24 ft., and thvided into three open compartments. The superb collection of pictures^ formed chieily by piu'chases from the Orleans Gallery, and by that of the Vetturi Gallery, from Venice, is the great glory of Cobham. These are scattered throughout the apartments, the finest being in the Picture Gal- lery. As, however, the arrangement is liable to frequent alteration, and as some of the best pictures (those in Queen Elizabeth's room) are not always shown to the public (a very special order being required for see- ing them, about which the amateur coming from a distance should make incjuiry by letter before proceeding to Cobham), it will be best to follow Dr. Waagen's arrangement of them under the different schools, of which those of Venice and the Netherlands are best represented here. The fol- lowing pictiu-es should be especially noticed. Those marked (E) are in Queen Elizabeth's room. School op Venice. — Titian: (E) The Rape of Europa,a celebrated pic- ture, and perhaps the finest in the collection. In the left corner is the artisfs signature. "The action of the Europa is very animated ; the landscape very poetical. The equally spirited and broad treat- ment bespeaks the later time of the master, in which we detect, in some respects, the iniiuence of Paid Ve- ronese." — Waagen. (Orleans Gal- lery, and said to have belonged to Charles I., though not in Virtue's Catalogue. There is a bad copy of this picture at Dulwich.) Id. : (E) Venus and Adonis. The composition nearly the same as the picture in the National Gallery. "The Cobham version was engraved as early as 1610 by Ralph Sadlier."— F. 8. Id. : A Christ, half-length. " Of noble character, and of extraordinary warmth in the full body of coloiu-." — Waagen. Id. : A male portrait, Kent. Route 2. — Cobham Hall. 51 inscribed. Id. : Portrait of Ariosto, inscribed. " Simplicity, dignity, and grandeiu- are combined in this pic- ture, which is one of Titian's tine portraits."— i''. 8. Id. : (E) Danac and the golden shower; questiona- ble, and probably not Titian's. " Per- fect in coloiu-ing." Id. : (E) Venus and Cupid with a mirror (Orleans Gallery). Id. : Portraits of Titian and Don Francesco del Mosaico (a copy, according to Dr. Waagen). " Parts of this picture are in a ruin- ous condition, and the hands are comparatively unfinished." — F. S. Giorgicme : Two pictm-es — Ciesar receiving the head of Pompey, and Milo torn by lions — are assigned to this painter. The first only can be genuine. Andrea Schiavone: A Flagellation. Tliis picture has been given to Titian, but is considered by Dr. Waagen " a particularly fine and careful work" by the first-named master. Tintoretto : (E) Juno and the infant Hercules ; the creation of the Milky Way (Orleans Gallery) ; very fine. Paul Veronese : (E) Four alle- gorical representations of very un- certain meaning, in which Oupid plays a principal part. They are entitled, 'le Eespect,' 'le De'gout,' ' rAmoiu- Heiuxux,' and ' ITnfide- lite.' "As respects keeping, draw- ing, and masterly painting, they belong to the best works of this great painter." — Waagen. " They Avill astonish those who estimate this artist only from his works generally known in this country. AVe doubt if there are many things out of Venice equal to them." — F. S. They are engraved in Grozat's ' Eecueil,' 1742 ; but their signitication was not then more intelligiblethan at present. These pictures formed part of the collection made by Queen Christina of Sweden. Paul Veronese ('?): Tlie Triumph of Bacchus. Alessandro Veronese: Diana and Endymion, on marble. SciioolofFlokenci:.— 6'arZoi?oZce; The Virgin giving the picture of S. Dominic to the Superiors of a Con- vent. A large and careful picture, purchased at Florence, and recently added to the gallery. School of Hojif. — Sassoferrafo : The IMadonna in prayer. " Of warm tone and carefid iinish." School of Bologxa. — Annihale Carracci: (E) The Toilet of Venus. Very good (Orleans Gallery). Guido Eeni : (E) Liberality and Modesty ; between them the ligure of Cupid. " The heads are pleasing, but of little expression." " Finely drawn and coloured." — F. S. Perhaps the best Guido here. Id. : The Daughter of Herodias with the head of St. John. Id. : St. Francis. Very good. Id. : Head of the repentant Mag- dalen. "Delicate and beautiful.' Id. : The ]\Iassacre of the Innocents. " Same as the famous picture at Bo- logna, but much darker." From Sir Joshua Reynolds's collection. Al- hano : Merciuy and Apollo with the flocks of Atlmetus ; the assembly of the Gods above. Carefidly painted. Guercino: A Sibyl. Id.: His own l^ortrait. Schidone: The Transfigu- ration. Marc Antonio Franceschini : To this painter Dr. Waagen assigns a pictm-e representing the Magdalen reading. It is here given to Niccolo Eegnari. Caravaggio: Esau selling his birthright. JJomenico Feti: A family of five persons, one of whom is making lace. " A capital pictiue." School OF Naples. — halrutor Rosa: Pythagoras teaching the fishermen. " This takes a distinguished position among the historical pictures by this master, for the happy arrangement and the characteristic natiu-e of the heads. If the colouring of his figiu-es be deficient in truth, as is usually the case, it is nevertheless of great power, and the execution particidarly spirited.'" — Waagen. Id. : The Death of Eegulus ; well known by Salvator's own etching. Much darkened. " This vigorous paiuthig of a horrible subject is said to be the chef-d'oeuvre of the master."— F.S. i>2 52 Route 2. — Cobhani Hall. Sect. I. LI. : Jason pouring tlie sleeping charm over tlie dragon. (Comp. Tur- ner's "Jason," atlMarlborotigliHonse, anl Ruskin's ' Notes on the Turner Gallery.') Id. : The Birth of Orion. Both these pictiu-es are much dark- ened, but deserve attention. All the Salvators liere are alike remarkable for "absence of colonr, intensity of sliadow, and all sorts of unrefined vigour." On this subject see Rus- kin, 2y«i<shii. Luca Giordano : Ado- ration of tin; Shepherds. Painted witli his golden l)rnsh: he had, say the Italians, three — of gold, silver, and lead. Schools of tiik Nktiierlands. — Itoger ran der Weyden tlie elder: Portrait of a Refomier in a fur cap and brown furred dress. "An admirable portrait." (In the por- trait galleiy). Tills is usually but iiiaecurati'ly called a portrait of Lu- ther. IlaheuK : Queen Tomyris dip- ping the head of Cyrus into a vessel of human blood (Orleans Gal- lery). " This celebrated composi- tion of 17 figures as large as life, the best engraving of whicli is by I'aulus Pontius, is a splendid spe- cimen of tlie peculiar manner in which Rubens treated such a sub- ject." — Waagen. It is placed at the end of the picture gallery ; and tlie effect, when the door is opened, j is that of a magnificent tahleau vi- ninf. A small copy, or perhaps the original sketch for this picture, is also preserved here. Id. : Children 1 ilowing soap-bubbles. " Of wonder- ful charm of nature." Id. : A Ijion Hunt. A very spirited sketch. Id.: Triumphal Entry of Henry IV. aftei' the battle of Ivry. Sketch for the great picture in INorence. Andrea Mantegna"s procession at Hampton Court has here been much imitated by Rubens. Id. : Jupiter abandoning the world to Venus and Cupid. A very spirited sketch. 'J'he collection contains other pic- tures iittributed to Rubens, but only those already mentioned are proba- bly by the hand of the great master. " A Wild Boar Hunt " is evidently finished by his pupils. Vandyck: The Duke of Lennox. A full-length figure, as a shepherd, holding a crook. On a rock are the words "Me firmior amor." Id.: the same Duke, in black, his right hand resting on the head of a large hound. Id. : Lord Bernard and Lord John Stuart, sons of the Duke of Lennox. Whole length. A repetition of Earl De Grey's pictm-e, but an original, and very beautiful. Lord John fell in the battle of Brandene, 16-i-4, and Lord Bernard the next year in an engagement near Chester. Both were interred in the cathedral at Oxford. Jordaens : A Girl feeding a Parrot. The colouring very fine. Snyders: A Stag Hunt. " Spirited and admir- able." (On the staircase; as are the next two.) Id. : Landscape, with the fable of the hare and the tortoise. " Of singular freshness of tone." Id. : Studies for heads of stags. Sir Peter Leiy : Dorothea Countess of Sunder- land (Waller'sSacharissa). Oneof his best portraits. Sir G. Kveller : Queen Anne. Id. : TheodosiaHj'de, daugh- ter of the Earl of Clarendon, who brought the estate into the possession of tlie Darnleys, her husband, John Bligh, Esq., having been created the first Earl. Id. : jMary of Modena, Queen of James II. Mark Gar- rard {!): Queen Elizabeth, in a white embroidered dress, with pearl coronet and necklace. School of France. — Janet: Por- trait of the Due d'Alengou, son of Henry II., in a white dress. Id. (?) : IMary Queen of Scots, a veiy curious picture. Mary, dressed in em- bossed black velvet, iiolds a crucifix in her right hand, and a book in her left. Below her right hand are the words " Aula Fodringhamy," and beneath is a representation of her execution. There is either a du- plicate or coi>y of this pictiu-e at Windsor. Another full-length por- trait of Mary is preserved at Cobham, Kent. Route ■Cohh lam. 53 not very flattering to her bccUity. Nicholas Poussin: (E) A Nympli on tlie shoulders of a Satyr. Id. : (E) Oii2)icl, a Nymph, and Satyr. Better in colour than the former picture. Id. : Slcetch of Bacchanalian Chil- dren. Id. : The Flight of Pyrrhns. A repetition of the picture in the Louvre, but doubtful. "Carefully and equally finished in all parts." — F. S. Lehridi.: The Fight of the Centaurs and Lapitha?. " An ex- cellent and remarkable picture of the master." — Waagi'u. S^cuooL OF Spain. — Juan Panfoja de la Cruz (court painter of end of Philip II. and beginning of Philip III.) : Portraits of a Prince and Princess, called the Archdukes Albert and Isabella ; but whether these are the persons rei^resented seems imcertain. The pictiu'e is in- scribed. Tliere is a duplicate of the Prince's portrait by the same painter at Hampton Court. School op England. — Sir Joshua Eeynolds: The Call of Samuel, a well known and very pleasing pic- ture. Id. : Lady Francis Cole, as a child, with a dog. " One of the finest pictures of the master. The landscape of the background is one of the finest specimens of his skill that I know." — Waugen. Id. : Por- trait of Mrs. IMonk ; very fine. Id. : Countess of Clanwilliani ; " a mas- terly work." Gainsborough: IMiss M'Gill, daughter of the first Lord Damley, afterwards Co^^ntess of Clanwilliam ; very striking. Id. : an unknown female portrait, " of great clearness and delicacj' of coloiuing." In the gallery, remark a large an- tique bath of red oriental granite. An ancient cliariot, called tliat in which Queen Elizalx'th arrived at Cobham in 1.559, is preserved in the yard. It is, liowever, not older than William III., if so old. The panels are of black leather, lined with green velvet. The Park of Cobham, which is well varied with hill and dale, is 7 m. in circumference, and nobly wooded. It contains a heronry of considerable size, and is amply stocked with deer. Many of the trees are of great age and Ijeauty ; one of the most remarkable being a chestnut, 32 ft. in circumference, called "the Four Sisters" from the 4 great arms into wliich it divides. This famous tree is about 1 m. from the Hall, near a path leading to Knight's Place Farm. An avenue of four rows of lime-trees extends for more than 1000 yards on the S. side of the house. On William's Hill, one of the finest points in the park, is the Mausoleum, built in 1783, at a cost of 9000?., but never used. It is seen from a consider- able distance, but is not too orna- mental. The view from it, how- ever, should not be missed. The Cliurrh of Cobham, in the village, at the S.W. corner of the park, amjily deserves a visit. The chancel is E. E. ; the rest late Dec. and mainly the work of that Sir John Cobham who founded the College adjoining, and built Pochester Bridge, temp. Edw. III. The stalls for the members of the college remain in the choir. The archjeologist, however, will find his chief interest in the unrivalled as- semblage of brasses, which cover the floor of the ch. 13 of these, illustrating dress and armour be- tween 13.54 and 1529, belong to the families of Brooke and Cobluun. 11 others commemorate masters of the college. The most important are — John de Cobhnm, 1354. Sir Thomas de Cobham, 13G7, and his wife Maude, 1370. Her costume is the sideless " cote-hardi " Inittoned down the front ; the head-dress is reticulated. Margerie de CofiJiam, 1375. Remark the reticulations of the head-dress continued on the shoulders. Sir John de Cobham, 13 — , the last of the direct race, foimdcr of the college and re- storer of the ch., a figure of which 54 Route 2. — Cohham. — Shorne. Sect. I. he holds in his hand. Margerle de Cohham his wife, 1395. Ralf de Cohham, Esq., 1405, a half effigy, ap- parently supporting the inscription. Reginald de Cohham, 1420, wearing a cope. Sir Beginald Brayhrooh, husband of Joan Lady Cobham, 1405. Sir Thomas Broohe, Lord Cohham, 1529. Of the masters of the college, the best are— TlV/Z/rnn Tanner, first master, 1418, and John Sprotte, 1498. In the chancel is an altar - tomb, elaborately coloured, with effigies of Sir George Brooke, Lord Cobham, Governor of Calais, and his wife, 1558. Smaller effigies are placed at the sides. Adjoining the churchyard are the scanty ruins of the Old College or Chantry, and the New College of Cobham, founded after the dissolu- tion. The Chantry, for 7 priests or chaplains, was founded and richly endowed in 1387 by Sir John de Cobham, who at the same time nearly rebuilt the ch. At the disso- lution, the site, and all the lauds belonging to it, were sold by the king's permission to Sir George Brooke, Lord Cobham. The portions remaining are part of the refectory wall, and a fragment of the X. cloister. The Neic College or almshouse, was raised on the site of the old foundation ; pai-t of the ancient buildings being used in the new work. It was founded by Sir William Brooke, Lord Cobham, who died late in Elizabeth's reign ; and forms a quadrangle, containing 20 lodging-rooms and a large hall, now used as a chapel for the pen- sioners. Over the gate toward the garden are the founder's aims, with an inscription. " There is a good day's work for a sketcher's pencil on these old buildings, with their ivied archways, dilapidated gables, and deep-shadowed interiors." The " Leather Bottle,^' the " clean and commodious village alehou.se" to which ^Ir. Tupman retired from the world, still exists, and affords tolerable accommodation. It was here that ]Mr. Pickwick made his great antiquarian discovery, rivalling the A.D.L.L. of the sage" of Monk- bams. If the tourist be disposed to trj' his own luck, he should com- mence operations on the line of the Watling Street, which is very con- spicuous on the N. side of the park. Adjoining it, about ^ m. 'W., is one of the wells called St. Thomas's Waterings, used by the pilgrims on their way to Canterbury. 1 m. N. beyond Cobham Park is the Church of Shorne, chiefly Dec, and containing the altar-tomb and cross-legged effi.gy of Sir Henry de Cobham, Sheriff "of Kent imder the first and second Edwards, and called " Le Uncle," to distinguish him from his nephew of Cobham. He was lord of Randall, an ancient manor in this parish. Brasses : John Smith, 1337. John Smith and liis wife Marian, 1457. William Pepyr, vicar, 1469. The Font (late Dec), is octangular, and has its compartments filled with sculpture representing the Passion, Kesmrection, and As- cension ofOurl/Ord. The Chxu-ch of Shorne was given by Henry I. to the Monastery of S. Saviour, Ber- mondsey ; which house retained it until the dissolution. There is some imcertainty how far " 3Iaister John Shome," or " Sir John Shome," a mediaeval thauma- turgist of great celebrity, but whose history is involved in utter darkness, was connected with this place. His figure usually appears presiding over a'boot, hito which he is said to have " conveyed the devil ;" but whence, unhappily for the world, he let him go again". " If we were sick of the pestilence," nms Michael Wood's dialogue, quoted by Brand, "we ran to St. Roche ; if o"f the ague, to St. Pern el, or Master John Shorne." Master John liad apparently shrines here and at IMurstou, nearer Graves- end. He was never canonized and Kext. Route 2.—Chdlh.— Ga(Vs Hill. is not called a saint ; his votaries contenting themselves with honour- ing him as " Maister John Shome, That blessed man born." He had a chapel at Windsor ; and on the rood-screens at Cawston and Gateley, Norfolk, he is rejiresented crowned with a nimbus. Other traditions connect him with North Marston, Bucks, where the chancel is said to have been built with offer- ings at his shi-ine ; and where he had a well, endowed with great virtues. (See N. and Q. vol. ii.) 2 m. beyond Shorne is Chalk Cliurch ; to be visited for the sake of its very remarkable porch, above which are 2 grotesque figures ; one of which holds a jug with both hands, and looks upward laughing at a morris-dancer, or tumbler. Strangely placed between these is a niche in which stood an image of the Virgin, to whom the ch. is dedi- cated. The figures are E. E. in date, and very curiousr The ch. was at an early period attached to the Priory at Eochester; but in 1827 was appropriated to that of Xoi-wich, also Benedictine. The tourist may return to Eo- chester (5 m. from Chalk) over Gad's Hill. In again passing the village of Shorne, he sliovdd not miss the view from an eminence behind the Crown Inn, adjoining the road, and called the Halfway House. The reaches of the Thames are here well commanded. 1 m. beyond is Gad's Hill, on the top of which is the Sir John Falstatf Inn, where, however, the traveller is more likely to make a'cquaintance with the familiar creature, small "beer, than with the sherris-sack or canaries better loved of the valorous knight. The hill itself, an ascent of about 1 m., was so calleJ, like Sliooter's Plill, from the frequent robberies cotnmitte<l here by the clerks of St. Nicholas {gads, vaga- bonds ; the great clubs of wood or iron carried by them were also called gads) ; who, like Robin Hood and Much the Miller's son, came down here " To Watling-street, to take a prey." Thick woods, of which only a tuft is now left at the top of the hill, formerly spread on either side of the road, in which the " men in buckram' lay hid for fat franklins of the Weald, rich pilgrims to Canterbury, or for " the money of the king's coming down the hill." Such robberies were more than usually frequent during the latter years of Elizabeth ; and the offenders seem to have been coun- tenanced liy not a few of the Kent- ish magistrates. Hence perhaps the selection of this place by Shak- speare as the scene of Sir John's exploit. Its evil reputation con- tinued to a much later period. John Clavell, in his ' Recantation of an ill-led Life, 1G34,' alludes to " Gad's Hill, and those Eed tfips of mountains where good people lose Their ill-kept purses." In 165G the Danish ambassador was robbed here ; and received a letter the next day from the thieves, who were perhaps nearer Prince Henry's rank than Dick Tuipin's — in which they assured him that " the same neces- sity that enforc't the Tartars to breake ye wall of China, compelled them to wait on liim at Gad's Hill." A more famous robbery was com- mitted here in 1676 by a man named Nicks, who stopped and pilfered a traveller at 4 in the morning, and at 5 to 8 the same evening was playing bowls at York. Tltis is perhaps the original version of Dick Tuii)in's ride. A staring obelisk on the hill, to the 1., rather interferes with the earlier associations of the spot. It was erected to the memory of a Rochester auctioneer, named Larkins —a parish orator and borough 0(5 Route 3. -Me of Sheppey. Sect. T, Hampcleu — Ly his grateful Mlow- citizeus. Gad's Hill has recently gained an illustration of very different cha- racter. A house of red brick, on the 1. side of the hill, near the Falstaff Inn, and marked by some dark spreading cedars, is the country residence of Charles Dickens, Esq", ■who in the ' Pickwick Papers ' had already made good his rights over Eochester and its neighbourhood ; and who is said, at a very early period of his career, to have fixed on tliis very house as his future home. ROUTE 3. THE ISLE OF SHEPPEY. The Isle of Sheppey may best be visited from Chatham, landing at Sheeruess. There is a ferry across the Swale, connecting a road from Sittingbourne to Sheerness, along whicli line a railway is now in pro- gress; but the tourist will do best to avail himself of the Medway Com- pany's Steamboats, which leave the pier adjoining the Strood railway station four times daily dm'iug the summer, touching in their way at the Sun Pier, Chatham. The pas- sage between Strood and Sheeruess is made in about 1^ horn-. The railroad now in progress from Sheer- uess to Sittingbourne will open a new line of access to tlie N. side of the comity, from the opposite coast of Essex, at Southend. The name of the Medway is cer- taiidy of British origin, though its signification is imcertain. How far, therefore, the Kentish river is en- titled to claim cousinship with the aucient Medoacus (major and minor ; now the Bronta and Bachiglione) must be left for the decision of future antiquaries. The appearance of ihe stream (at least below Eochester) has been considerably changed since in Spenser's days she went forth to meet her bridegroom the Thames; though she is still " clad in a vesture of unknowen geare Aud uncouth fashion." As high as Eochester the river is, like the Thames, under the conserv- ancy of commissioners. Like the Thames also, the Medway hail very anciently been embanked oi" " walled " for the preservation of a deep channel, and the safety of the land on either side. The dutj of watching over these embankment.% a^jpears to have been neglected foar a considerable period ; lands have been taken in and drained on either side of the I'iver without method ; and the result has been that the whole of the estuary is becoming choked with mud, and narrowed into a series of shallow tidal chan- nels, creeks, ditches, and watei-ways of indescribable kinds, intersecting- a wilderness of islets, above 200 of which are marked on the Admiralty charts. " The isolation of the land upon these islands renders it all but valueless. The diflBcultj' of getting cattle upon such ground is consider- able ; aud a high water will capri- ciously come every now and then, wliich stops its rising only when the foot of the sm-rounding hills is reached. Even the spring-tides rise high enough to wet the grass and flavour with salt the coarse weeds which thrive there. Such is the dc- Ke^'t. Route 3. — Isle of Sheppey. hi solatiou of the islets that they are mowed by people who come do\vii from the towns in bouts; men who are uot tenants or owners of tlie lands, yet openly carry away their produce." — Household Words, vol. xiv. Uuless some speedy remedy be applied, m the shape of judicious embanking, the result will be " the extinction of Sheerness and Chatham as water-side towns." The same causes now in action here produced the destruction of the ancient Cinque Ports. Vpnor Castle, 1., opposite the dock, dates from the 3rd year of Queen Elizabeth, by whom it was erected as a defence to the river. Other and more effective " blockhouses," however, have taken its place, and it now serves as a powder magazine. Close below it the English shijjs were burnt by the Dutch in 16G7 (see Rte. 2). Nearly opposite, rt., is Gillingham Fort, originally built by Charles I., but now of no great importance. There is little else to attract the tourist's attention until the broad waters of the Thames open before him, and he lands at Sheerness. Sheppey (Sceapige— the island of sheep — " VciTecmn patria," says Baxter — a Saxon translation of its earlier name Malata, from the Bii- tish molht, a sheep, which, by a cmious chance, has come back to us in the Gallicised " mutton ") is about 30 m. incirciunf., 11 long, and S broad. (Pop. of entire island, 11,000.) The ground rises toward the centre, but the clifts on the N. side, which are from 60 to 80 ft. high, deca)- veiy rapidly, " fifty acres haNang been lost within the last twenty years." {LyeU, 1834). " The church at Minster, now near the coast, is said to have been in the middle of the island 50 years ago, and it has been conjectured that, at the present rate of destruction, the whole isle will be annihilated in about half a century." {Id.) The i.^land is entirely composed of Lon- don clay, which here abounds with fossils of a verj^ interesting cliarac- tcr. In walking along the beach E. of Sheerness the visitor will find "whole bushels of pyritized pieces of twigs and fruits, belonging to plants nearly allied to the screw-pino and the custard-apple, and to various species of palms and spice-tree.s which now flourish in the Eastern Archipelago. At the same time when they were washed down from some neighbouring land, not only crocodilian reptiles, but sharks and innumerable turtles, inhabited a sea or estuary wliich now forms part of the London district, and liuge boa- constrictors glided among the trees which fringed the adjoining shores." (Oiren). We are, in fact, among the ruins of ancient spice islands, which once "cheered old ocean witli their grateful smell/' though in the days of their blooming there were no voyag- ers to ' slack their course ' for the sake of the sea-wafted odours, now exchanged for something more re- sembling the ' fishy fume ' that drove away Asmodexis. The fossils to bo collected here are, ' stems and branches of trees, and fragments of wood, perforated by teredines ; speci- mens of the fruits of palms, resem- bling the recent nipas of the Mo- luccas (the m'pjai are low, shrub-like plants, having the general aspect of palms, and growing in marshy tracts at the months of great rivers ; the fruit here found is known as ' petri- fied figs '), of plants allied to tho cuciunber, bean, cyjoress, laburnmn, &c. ; claws and fraginents of the shields of crabs ; portions of tho carapaces of tm-tles, teeth of sharks and of raj's, several species of tho usual shells of the London clay, and an occasional specimen of nautilus." — Mantell. Sjjccimens of most of these fossils may generally be pro- ciu-cd from dealers at Sheerness ; and the collector should also make inquiries at houses on the coast : d3 58 Route 3. — Ide of SJieppey. Sect. I. at Scapscjnte, where the cliffs begin to rise ti-om the western end of the ishxud; at Jlenshrooh, between Minster and AVarden ; and at 3hid How, Warden Point, where the cot- tagers, most of whom work on the beach, have frequently good speci- mens for sale. The geologist who wishes to collect for himself must examine the dark patches of pyrites lying mider the cliifs upon the shingle ; and " to ensiu'e success, he must be content to go upon his knees and carefully search among the frag- ments. I have by this means ob- tained, in the course of a morning, upwards of 100 fine fruits of various sizes." — /. S. Boirerhanh. Care .should be taken to ascertain that the tide is falling before starting on such an expedition. " The collector should also be provided with five or six sheets of soft paper, to wrap fragile specimens in ; and a few cotton or linen bags, of about 4 or 5 in. in chametcr, to separate the large from the small fossils ; the whole to be carried in a good-sized blue bag or haversack : a chisel and light hammer are the only instru- ments required." — /. S. B. " The vegetable remains are strongly im- pregnated with iron pyrites ; and as tills mineral speedily undergoes de- composition when exposed to the atmosphere, the choicest examples often fall to pieces, even when pre- served in a dry cabinet. Mr. Bower- l)ank, who possesses an unrivalled collection of these fruits, keeps them in stopper-bottles filled with wattr, placing the different species sepa- rately, and labelling the phials. I liave" successfully employed mastic varnish ; first wiping the specimens dry, and remo^"ing any saline efflor- escence, by means of raw cotton, and then "brushing in the varnish with a stiff hair-pencil." — Mantell. Pyrites, or copperas stones, used for d3-eing scarlet and black, and in the manufacture of Eoman ce- ineut, are hei'e largely distributed throughout the clay. There are cop- peras works within a short distance of Sheerness, and the stones them- selves are collected in heaps along the beach, whence they are carried in shiploads. They were first turned to account in 1570, when IMatthias Falconer, a Bral)anter, established a factory for making copperas at Min- ster. The island is tolerably wooded about Minster and Eastchiu-ch, where the ground is much varied with hill and dale. A good deal of corn is grown here, but the greater part is still upland pasture and marsh, a true " vervecura patria." The Sicale, which divides it from the mainland, seems anciently to have been the regular ship-passage into the Thames ; and the " dragons " of the Northmen were many times laid up here, whilst their crews wintered on the island. It is still navigable for vessels of 200 tons ; biit its use is almost confined to the small craft of the neighbom-hood. Some large tu- muli in the S. part of the island, called " coterels " by the iidialntants, are thought to be graves of Danish leaders. In the Swale, as we learn from a letter of Gregoiy the Great to the patriarch of Alexandria, but at what point is imcertain, 10,000 Saxons were baptised by Augustine on the Christmas-day following the conversion of Ethelbert, a.d. 597. (Stunh'ii, Hist. 31. of Carderhury.) The importance of this coast during the Anglo-Saxon period is proved by the legends connected with Tong Castle. (See Etc. 4.) The places of most interest in SIh ppey are Sheerness and Minster. The docks and garrison of Sheer- ness occupy the N.W. point of the island, a position of extreme im- portance, since it commands the entrances of both the Thames and the IMedway. The earliest work for defence here was Edward III."s Castle of Queenborough. This was demolished during the Common- Kent. Ro ute 3 . —^Sheern ess. — Minster. 59 •\vealtli ; and after the Restoration a small fort, mounting 12 guns, was constructed at the point of Sheer- ness. This was in progress of im- provement when the Dutch made their famous attack on the fleet in the Medway in 1667. The Dutch cannon reduced tlie fort after an hour and a half's firing, and their troops occupied Sheerness luitil De liuyter withdrew from the coast. (See Rte. 2.) The fort, after this warning, was increased to a regular fortification. Fresh works have heen added from time to time, and Sheer- ness is now at least sufficiently strong to be regarded with some apprehen- sion by more powerful fleets than those of the United Provinces. Sheerness CPo\x 10,000. Inns: The Fountain, Blue Town ; Eoyal Hotel, and Wellington, Mile I'oion) has grown into a considerable town, with 2 main divisions, known as Blue Town (within the limits of the garrison) and Blile Town (Ijc- yond the fortifications to the N.E.). A want of water, from wliicli the whole island formerly suffered, has been so far remedied that there are now four good wells from which the town is srxpplied. These are of great depth ; and, in sinking tliein, an ex- tensive subterranean forest was dis- covered, through which the workmen had to burn their way. The Dock- yard was at first intended for the repair of vessels and the building of smaller ships of war. It has, how- ever, been much extended and im- proved, and is now one of the finest in Europe. It covers 60 acres, and is surrounded by a brick wall, built at a cost of 40,000?. The docks are sufficiently capacious to receive men- of-war of the first class. Besides 2 smaller basins, there is 1 with 2G ft. of water, which will hold 6 first-class ships. The Storehouse, called, before the days of the Crystal Palace, the largest building in the country, is G stories high, and will contain about 30,000 tons of naval stores. The harbour has recently been much enlarged, and the number of vessels usually lying here renders the scene always- impressive. The walk from Sheerness to Min- ster {'A m.) is to be recommended for the sake of the view from the cliffs, which is very fine. In front is the Thames with its myriad vessels. Sheerness .spreads out below, and landward extends a wide sweep of rich corn and pastxire land, through which winds the Medway. The scene is perhai^s as striking, from the va- riety of objects it comprises, as any in Kent, and is not likely to be for- gotten. Minster was the site of a nunnery founded about 673 by Sexbin-ga, widow of Ercombert kmg of Kent. 77 nuns were placed in it ; but the house was laid desolate diu-ing the Danish ravages, and was not effec- tually restored until Abp. Corboil, in 1130, placed a colony of Benedic- tine imns here, under the patronage of St. Sexburga. At the dissolution it was granted to Sir Thomas Cheney. Of the conventual buildings, only the gatehouse, of late character, re- mains. The existing Church, which is of considerable interest, was not apparently tliat of the abbey, since H( nry Lord Cheney, temp. Eliz., obtained leave to remove the coffins ■of his ancestors from the chapel of the convent, the materials of which had been sold to Sir Humphrey Gil- bert. The tomb of his father, Sir Thomas Cheney, may now be seen in the N. chancel of Minster Church, where it was re-erected. In 1833 the effigy of a knight (15th cent.) was exliumcd in the churchyard at a depth of 5 ft., and is now placed within the ch. It is of weald marble. In the N. wall of the main chancel is the remarkable tomb of Sir Robert do Shurland, temp. Edw. I. He is armed, and cross-legged ; and at his right hand is a horse's head, appa- rently projecting from the tomb. Sir Robert was lord of the manor of 60 Eoute 3. —Isle of Sheppey. Sect. I. Sliurland, in tlie acljoimnej parish of Eastbridge ; and (I'otli Edw. I.) ob- tained, among other liberties, a grant of " wreck of tlie sea " for his manor. This privilege enabled him to claim everything he could touch with the point of his lance, after riding into the sea at low water as far as i>os- sible. The horse's head has been thus explained, thongh by no means satisfactorily. The tomb has given rise to a curious local legend. Sir Robert, it is said, having quarrelled with a priest, buried him alive, and then swam on horseback two miles through the sea to the king, whose shii) lay off the island. Having pro- cm-ed the royal pardon, he swam back to shore, where his followers reproached liim witli having accom- plished his journey by that sort of " metaphysical aid " which is still held to flourish among the wise women of Sheppey. To disprove it he cut oft" his horse's head ; but some time aftei-wards, whilst hmiting near the water, his horse stiunbled over the skull of its predecessor, and Sir Robert died from the fall. Hence the avenging horse's head on his tomb. Brasses in the ch. are Sir John and Lady de Northwode (14tli cent.), of "Northwode, in the adjoin- ing parish of Eastchurch. The oyster fisheries of the Cheyney Rock, which stretch along opposite Minster, are very extensive, and of no small celebrity. Their farmer, Mr. Alston, has sent to London in a single season more than 50,000 bushels of" natives " from this shigle fishery. iSheerness and i\Iinster form two points of a triangle, of which Queen- borough is the third. Edward III. built a castle here, " for the strength of the realm and the refuge of the inhabitants," imder the inspection of 'William of Wickham, which was named Queenborough in honour of Queen Philippa. {Kingshorough, in the centre of the island, was the place at which the annual coiirts were held.) It was repaired by Heniy VIII. in 1536, when block- houses were built on other parts of the coast ; but had fallen into decay in the time of the Commonwealth, when it was sold, and its naaterials removed. The moat alone remains, within which the outline of the kee}) is traceable, " in plan like a 5-leaved rose, with 5 smaller circular towers between the leaves, which are large, and aftord platforms." An outer wall encircled the moat. As the most original military work of Wick- ham, even these traces have interest. The castle Well remains, and is of considerable importance, since the water throughout the island is brackish and unwholesome, with the exception of the wells here and at Sheerness. The Church of Queenborough de- serves a visit. The W. tower may be Norm. At Shnrland, 2 m. E. of Minster, are the remains of a considerable mansion, built by Sir Thomas Cheney toward the end of the reign of Henry VIII. with the materials of the ancient castle of Chilham. The Cheneys obtained the manor of Shnrland in 1323, by intermarriage with a family of the same name which had been settled here before the reign of Henry III. The man- sion is now a farmhouse. The large Church of Eastchurch is Perp. In it are full-length efligies of Gabriel Livesey and his wife, lay rector, d. 1622. It was early granted to the great Cistercian convent of the Dunes, on the coast of Flanders, but was afterwards transferred to the house of Boxley, in Kent, of the same order. In Harty Chm'ch is preserved a cm-ious oak chest, on which is repre- sented a tilting-match between two knights. It is of Dec. character. Between Elmley and Harty, the 2 southenmaost parishes of Sheppey, runs up a creek called Crog Dick, a Kent. Route 4. — -Chatham to Canterhury. 01 name whicli lias not been explained. The views from Harty Island are picturesque. There is a small coast- guard station and beacon at Shell- ness, the most easternly point of Sheppey, overlooking Whitstable Bay. EOUTE 4. CHATHAM TO CANTERBURY. Coaches leave the station at Strood for Canterbury (28 m.) seve- ral times daily ; and the East Kent Eailway, now (1857) slowly i^rogress- ing, takes nearly the same line ,of route. The main road from Chatham follows throughout the ooui'se of the Roman Watling Street ; interesting for its own relics, and not less so as the road taken by that famous com- pany of Canterbiuy pilgrims who set out from the " Tabard " in South- wark. The scenery is good for nearly the whole distance ; and from Boughtou Hill, beyond Faversham, one of the finest views in the county is commanded. The principal Eoman villas in Kent lay along the course of this great road, branches of which ex- tended to the sea at Eichborough (Rutupiaj) and Lymne (Portus Le- manis). Pennant has remarked (what is, of course, fortuitous) that a protracted line of the Watling Street would fall direct on Eome. The original trackway was probably British, and that by which the Druids of Mona passed to the Con- tinent CQ. E.,' xcvii.). It was thus a " via sacra" before it became the main road followed by pilgrims to the shrine of Becket, in connexion with which, as seems not unlikely, the name of the Watling Street was sometimes given to the Milky Way. (Compare the Turkish name for the Galaxy, " The Hadjis' Eoad," and the Spanish, "St. lagos Way" — Grinini. In Norfolk the Galaxy was calleil " The Walsingham Way," from the famous shrine of the Virgin there.) After climbing Chatham hill, the road for several miles commands good views of the opposite Isle of Shejjpey, of the course of the Med- way, its junction with the Thames, its islands, and of the ships-of-war lying in ordinary, extending in a long- line as far as the Nore. 4 m. from Chatham is the large Church of Ruinham, containing 2 remarkable monuments of the Tuf- ton family, — George Tufton, ob. 1G70 ; and' Nicholas Earl of Thanct, 1679. Brass, — John Bloor, 1529. In the churchyard is the burial-place of the Earls of Thanet. [1^ m. N. of Eaiuham, on a creek opening to the Medway, is Upchurch, overlooking the range of marshes which extend from Gillingham to Lower Halstow, and are intersected by numberless creeks and channels from the river. The Cliurch is principally Dec, with some E. E., and is interesting. There is a vaidt under the chancel, into which the descent is by a spiral staircase. In Hasted's time there were many bones here, — a collection in some degree resembling those at Hythe and Folkestone. The tower and spire — the latter square for about 10 ft., and then octagonal — should be noticed. The ch. was granted in 1187 to the Eemonstra- tensian Abbey of Lisle Dieu in Nor- mandy, and after the suppression of C2 Route 4. — Upchurch Marshes. — Hahtow. Sect. I. alien foundations was assigned bv Henry A^I. to All Souls, Oxford. The Upchurch marshes, wliich, in fact, consist of hard ground lying on a bed of very fine clay, are the site of extensive Eoinan potteries, " which must, from appearances, have been worked during the whole period of the Eoman occupation of the island. In many parts along the sides of the creeks, where the sea has broken away the ground and left a perpendicular bank, we can see, running along at a depth of from 2 to 3 ft., a regular layer, in many places a foot thick, of Koman pot- tery, most of it in fragments, but here and there a perfect or nearly perfect vessel, and mixed with lumps of half-burnt clay. The bed of the creek is formed of the clay in a liquid state, forming a fine and veiy tenacious mud ; tliis is completely filled with the Roman pottery, which is more easily j^rocured in the mud than on the bank, and with less danger of breaking the perfect spe- cimens. The latter may be felt by pushing a stick about in the mud." — Wright. The search for this pottery is no light task, since the treasure-seekers must trust themselves, at low water, to the mud, which has no definite bottom, and are consequently obliged to keep themselves in almost con- stant motion, lest they should sink too far, and become themselves cm- bedded for the gratification of future archa3ologists. Large water-boots, sou-westers, aiid light spades should be provided by the adventurous. The Medway pottery was inferior to that made at Caistor, in Northamp- tonshire (Durobrivaj). Its texture is, however, fine and hard ; and its colour usually a blue-black, " which was produced by baking it in the smoke of vegetable substances in smother-kilns." Some specimens of a red ware are also found here. The ornaments of both kinds are simple, consisting of lines and raised points, though their arrangements are very graceful and diversified. The forms are always good. The extent of the works is remarkable. Layers of pottery have been found at almost every point between Gillingham and the Isle of Sheppey,— nearly 7 m. Inland the site extends at least 3 m. The fragments are, no doubt, " the refuse of the kilns of the potters, who, it seems, gradually moved along in the course of years, or rather of ages, using up the clay, and throwing their refuse — the broken and da- maged pottery — on the land which they had exhausted, until tliis ex- tensive tract of country became covered with it." The field of broken pottery thus left by the Eomans was gradually covered by alluvial soil, which the tide has again scooped into creeks, thus bringing the fragments to light. In the Halstow marshes are indi- cations of buildings, apparently marking the site of a village inha- bited by the potters and their mas- ters or overseers. These are espe- cially evident near Halstow Church, where an embankment filled with broken tiles and pottery has been thrown up to protect the land from the sea. The little Cliurch of Hal- stow (]i,alig stoiv, the " holy i^lace," or church. Sax.) has much Roman masonry in its walls, and deserves careful examination. It is possibly of Saxon origin. The high grounds behind the marshes, stretching E. from Otter- ham Creek, were the site of a Roman cemetery belonging to tlie Halstow settlement. " Sepulchral deposits of urns and calcined bones are fre- quently met with there, and in one of them was found a large brass coin of Antoninus Pius.' — Wright, ' Wan- derings of an Antiquarij."} At Hartlip, 5^ m. rt., considerable remains of Roman baths, attached to a villa, were laid open in 1848, the existence of some part of which had been already known. The tiles form- Kent, Route 4. — Keycol Hill. — Sittinghourne. g;j ing the columns of the hypocaust were deeply scored across, so as to form small squares, apparently for easy separation when such tiles were required for constructing coarse tes- selated pavements. These remains are in a field called Loiver Dancfidd, about 1 m. S.W. of Hartlip Church. On their first discovery, about 1750, many bushels of wheat, apparently scorched by fire, were found in one of the divisions. Through a country of cherry- gardens we reach G^ m. Newington, a village with an interestingDec. Church. iivass.Mary Brook, 1600. A priory for nuns was founded here soon after the Domes- day survey : but the prioress havijig been found strangled in her bed, the nims were removed to Minster in Sheppey. On Keycol Hill, ] m. beyond New- ington, a great quantity of Eomau ru'ns of various forms have l>een discovered, but without sepidchral deposits. There are numerous lines of eaithwork here, and in the woods adjoining ; and it was at first con- jectured that the place was the site of a station. Of this, however, there is no definite proof. IMr. Oldbuck would have been pleased with the speculation that makes Keycol Caii CoUis, or, says Hasted gravely, "Caius Julius Caesar's Hill," and Key Street beyond "Caii Stratum." A more probable trace of Rome is formd in the sweet chesnut-trees which aboimd in the woods here. They are still more frequent in the ad- joining parish of INIilton ; and many venerable trees are known as the boundary marks of parishes and manors, a proof of their extreme antiquity. Pennant remarks that Kent is the only county in which they arc found growing in an a^i- parently wild state. They are of course not indigenous, and were probably introduced, like the earliest cherries, by the successors of " Caius Julius." At Sulton Barn in the parish of Borden, 8^ m., foundations of two Roman buildings and many coins were discovered in 184G. The Church of Borden has a Norm. Tower, and W. door ; and within the present belfry is a perfect and elaborately ornamented Norm, arch, which ought to be thrown open to the nave, show- ing the W. window. As usual through- out this district, Eonian bricks are found in the walls. [The E. E. Chm-ch of Stockbury, 1 m. iS. of Borden, deserves a visit, for the sake of the excellent carvings in its chancel. (See them figiu-ed in ' Gloss, of Archit.') There are some good Iragments of 13th cent, glass in the lancet windows.] Sitthighourne, 10 m. {Inns: The Bull, The Lion), seems to have been a usual halting-i^lace for pil- grims to Canterbm-y ; and sunch-y monarchs, following their examijle, have "dined" here in their way to or from London. Here Henry V. was sumptuously entertained at the "Eed Lion" on his return to Eng- land after Agincourt, where, says a local tradition, the cost of the en- tertainment, stately as it was, was 9s. 9f?. The two great hotels here, the Rose and the George, the latter of which was the favourite resting- place of both George I. and II. on their way to Hanover, have shared the fate of most of their brethren, and are now converted into shops. Of the Church a very small portion is E. E. The rest was rebuilt in 1762. In the N. wall of the chancel is a monument of very imusual cha- racter, temp. Edw. IV. It exhibits the effigy of an imknown lady, in grave-clothes, so arranged as to dis- jday the neck and bosom. The left breast is represented as swollen, the right as wasted away. Across the chest lies an infant, also in grave- clothes. There is a tradition that iiie lady died in childbed at Bayford Castle, but who she was is unknown. Theobald, the editor of Shakspeare, 64 Route 4. — Milton. — Bay font Castle. Sect. I. whose opposition to Pope procured \ him a place iu tlie first edition of \ the Duuciad, subscqiiently occiipied by Gibber, was born liere toward tlie end of the 17 th cent. 1 m. N. of Sittingbourne, and over- lianging the Swale marslies, lies Milton, famous for its oysters, wliich no doubt shared in Eoman favour witli those " Rutupino edita fundo " (see Rte. 9), or ratlier, per- haps, ranked themselves as Eutu- pians. The fisheries were granted by King John to the Abbot of Faver- sham, in whose hands they remained until the dissolution. They have been dredged from the earliest times by a company of fishermen, ruled like those of Faversham by certain ancient customs and bye-laws. " Mil- ton natives " bear the bell, or more properly are the pearls, among British oysters ; and since the discovery of the great sea-beds off t^horeham their value has materially increased, owing to the comparative coai-seness and more plentiful sujjply of the latter. The cbedgers work under farmers of the fisheries, the prin- cipal of whom here is Mr. Alston, the possessor of very extensive beds between Sheerness and Whitstaple, and no doubt the greatest " oyster- fisher" iu the world. (See TVh't- staple, Rte. 8.) A large fleet of smacks and hoys is employed in conveying the produce of the Mil- ton fi.sheries to London. The King's town of Milton, as it was called, was an ancient royal villa ; and there was a tradition that Scxbm-ga, the sainted prioress of Minster In Sheppey, died in the chiuch- porch here, circ. 680. Of the pre- sent Church, the N. aisle is Norm., the rest E. E. and Dec. Pieces of Roman brick are scattered tlirough the walls; and "in the E. wall is one fragment with Roman red mortar adhering to it " (Hussey). Remark also the herring-bone masonry of the N. wall. In tlie S. chancel arc 3 paving tiles with coloured patterns, which seem either Venetian or Moor- ish. Brass: a knight, temp. Edw.IV. In the vesti-y are 2 other figures from the same tomb. On Kemsley Down, in the marshes below Milton, is an earthwork about 100 ft. square, with a broad fosse and single vallum, known as Castle Rough. There are traces of a raised causeway leading from it to the mouth of the creek. This has been fixed upon, and rightly in all probability, as the fortress thrown up by Hasten the Dane when he landed here in 892 {Asser: "Hastengus fecit sibi firmis- simum oppidum apud Middeltu- nam"). Bayford Castle, near Sittingbom-ne, about 1 mile distant from Castle Rough, is said to have been built by King Alfred as a counter fortress to Castle Rough. The moat and a fragment of wall remain. The castle was the residence of Nottinghams, Cheneys, and Lovelaces, until the end of the IGtli cent., when it sank into a farm-house. [The Church of Tunstall (2 m. S. of Sittingbourne) has E. E. and Dec. portions. In it are elabo- rate monuments for Sir James Cro- mer (1613) and Sir Edward Hales (1654). Adjoining the village is Gore Court ; and about 2 m. S. Woodstock Park (Ed. Twopenny, Esq.). Bredgar, among the chalk hills 2 m. further, has a Perp. ch. with a curious Norm, doorway in- serted under the tower ; there are Roman bricks in the wall. Brass: Thos. Goly, Custos of the College of the Holy Trinity, Bredgar, 1508. This chantry, or " small college, for a chaplain and two scholar clerks," was founded temp. Rich. II. by a rector of Bredgar. A house near the ch. is still known as the " Chantry House. 'J Between Sittingbourne and Bap- child occurs a good view of the Isle of Sheppey, the Cliffs (N.) and Minster Church being visible. There is a broad road from Sittingbourne Kent. Route 4. — Tong Castle. — Bapchild. 65 to Slieerness through the marshes, crossing the Swale by a ferrj' ; and a railway is in progress (1857), whicli takes nearly the same com'se. The island is, however, easily reached from Chatham. (See lite. 3.) Immediately before entering Bap- child the mound of Tong Castle is visible N. of the road. It covers about half an acre, and is siUTOunded by a broad moat, on which is a mill of some antiquitj'. The ancient legend of Carthage — "facti de no- mine Byrsam, Tamino quantum pos- sent circumdare tergo " — foirnd in many different parts of the world, has also been located here. (See, post, a very curious version of the story connected with Tichbom-ne, Hants.) Hengist, after the first battle in which he assisted Vortigern, is said to have requested from the British chief as much land as an ox-hide could en- compass. This was readily granted, and the hide, being cut into small strips, was made to encircle the ground on which Tong or Thong Castle was then erected. Very re- markably, this old Saxon legend has been carried back to the East, whence in all probabilityit firstcame. The Hindoos declare that the de- scendants of Hengist obtained pos- session of Calcutta by a precisely similar stratagem. The site of Tong Castle, close to the Watling Street on one side, and to the Swale, then the usual ship passage, on the other, was an ad- vantageous one ; and the moimd may very possibly have been an important station with the earlier Saxon colonists. (Comp. mounds in E. Kent, as at Coldrcd and Wodnes- borough.) The success thus gained was according to the fm-ther tradi- tion rapidly followed up. It was in Tong Castle that the fair-haired Roweua " drank had' to King Vor- tigeni, and so fascinated him that he resigned the entire kingdom of Kent in favour of Hengist ; and here a few years later took place the massacre of the Britons by the Saxons at a feast — a stoiy also borrowed from the older stores of Teutonic tradi- tion. The narrator of the whole is Geoffrey of Monmouth, a proof at least that Saxon trachtions had early clustered about Tong Castle. A large cutlass sword, with a buck- horn handle, is said by Hasted to have been found within tlie site. A castle of Tong is mentioned after the Conipxest, when it was given to Bp. Odo, and later, temp. Rich. II., when it was in the hands of Edmund Mor- timer Earl of March. There are still some fragments of masonry about the mound. The Church of Tong- is partly Norm. Tong lies in the heart of the stronghold of ague on either side of the Swale. The soil is throughout very rich ; but this is the Kentish region of " wealth without health." The local proverb runs — " He that will not live long. Let him dwell at Murston, Tenham, or Tong." Bapchild, 11 m., is probably the Bachancild where, in 694, Wihtred King of Kent held his great council " to considt about repairing the churches of God wliich were in Kent." The ch., dedicated to S. Lawrence, is principally Norm. : but many later windows have been in- serted. It deserves, however, care- ful examination. The W. end seems to have had many round- headed windows, 2 of which remain. (Comp. Daviiigton, post.) Along the N. wall of the chancel runs an E. E. arcade, with detached pilasters. The Perp. screen should be noticed, and the honwork of the door, which is ancient. The Chiu-ch of Bapchild belonged to the Crown until Richard I., and was given by John to Chichester Cathedral, to which it is still at- tached. There was a small oratory here, near the wayside, N. of tho ch., at wliich pUgrims to Canterbiuy GG Route 4. — Tenham. — Faversham. Sect. I. halted to perform their devotions. No remains exist. Adjoining tlie village is Bapcldld Court, William Gascoigne, Esq. [The Church oiRodmersham, Ih m. S. of Bapchild, is of various dates, the chancel being apparently Norm. There are some fragments of .stained glass. The ch. belonged to the knights of St. John, to Avhom it was given by Henry II. ; and the 4 sedilia of wood in the chancel may perhaps have been appropriated by them. These seats are canopied, and the cai-ved screen at the back .should be noticed.] The well-known fertility of the county of Kent is ajiparent in the variety and richness of the crops throughout the siu-rounding country, and extending ii-om here to Canter- bury. Tenham, which parish is entered at the 43rd milestone, was, according to Lam1)ar(l, the original cherry- garden and apple-orchard of Kent. The Abps. of Canterbury possessed a vineyard here called the "New Garden," which in the reign of Henry III. was in great repute, and during the vacancy of the see was kept m order, like that at Northfleet, by the ministers of the Crown (Hudson Turner). Its former repu- tation probably induced Eichard Harris, fruiterer to Henry VIII., to fix on Teynham for the establish- ment of his " new orchards" — great store of " pippin grafts" being pro- cured by him from France, and " cherry grafts' ' from the Low Coun- tries. He planted about 105 acres, from which subsequently much of Kent was supplied ; and the reputa- tion of the Tenham fruit-gardens was considerable mitil the end of the last century. The cherry had been first brought into Britain by the Homans. {Pliny, 1. xv. c. 25.) The gardens here long afforded the maiir supply to the London market, and were a most valuable property until the remission of duty on foreign fruit, which enabled importers from Germany and France to compete with native produce. [^DoddinfjtoH Churchy in the chalk district, 4 m. S., is chiefly Norman, with a Tr. Norm, chancel, and at the E. end are 4 circular-headed win- dows, 3 below and 1 above. Some woodwork, which has been pauited, remains. There is a second, or S. chancel, which is E. E.] 85 m. beyond Tej'nham we reach 16 m. Favershani (Pop. 7000, in- cluding Ospringe and Davington ; Inn: The Ship) or Favresfeld ; a royal "villa," which early rose into importance from its situation at the point where the Watling Street touched the head of a navigable creek ; and which in 930 was large enough to entertain Athelstane and his " witan." It owed its later reputation to an abbey foimded here by Stephen and Matilda (1147-49), commonly known as St. Saviour's of Faver.sham. A relic of the Holy Cross sent by Godfrey of Bouillon to Stephen was placed" in this abbey, hence said to be founded "yn the wor.ship of the Croys." Stephen, his queen Matilda, and Eustace their son, were biiried in the Abbey Church, all during the lifetime of the first abbot, Clarembald. The monks were Cluniacs, of which or- der Henry of Blois, Bp. of Win- chester, the king's brother, was an especial patron. The abbot sat in parliament (as holding in chief) tiU 1325. The king, as founder, claimed, after each abbots death, his ring, his drinking cup, liis palfrey, and his kennel of hounds. At the di.ssolu- tion the Abbey was granted to Sir Thomas Cheney, who afterwalds sold it to Thomas" Arden, of tragical memory. It stood at the end of the town, "where the " Abbey Farm " still preserves its name. The great orchard in front is covered with in- terlacing foundations ; but nothing remains above ground except a massive boundary wall on one side. Kent. Route 4. — Faversham. 67 Close by are some enormous walnuts not unworthy of overshadowing the Cluniac brethren, contemplative or post-prandial. The Gatehouses and Oratory described by Ijcwis (1727) have quite disaj)peared. The existing parish cJi. (dedicated to our Lady of Charity) is thought to have also served as that of the Abbey. It may have been so used on great festivals, but must always have been at some distance from the rest of the conventual buildings. It has been entirely remodelled at different times, and is now in coiirsc of careful restoration. The whole of the windows have been replaced within the last 4 years. The ch. it- self is E.E., of great size and beauty, the transepts being divided into 3 aisles, by 2 rows of octangular pillars. The nave in its present state is the vilest Georgian Corinthian, ceiled and pewed. The curious W. tower dates about 1800. The original E. E. arch may be traced within the Tower, rt. of wliich is an ancient room called the Gaol. The beau- tiful modern font of alabaster and ser- pentine deserves notice. In the W. wall of N. travsept is a singular cross- .shaped opening, which can hardly have seiTed as a hagioscope. In the same transept, on the first octangular pillar E., some E. E. paintings have recently been laid open of the highest interest. Among them are the Na- tivity ; the Virgin sitting crowned with the Child ; the Salutation of Mary and Elizalx'th ; the Angels appearing to the Shepherds (their dog is fastened by a string to one of the Shepherel s hands, and barks at the Angel) ; the Crucifixion ; and the women visiting the Sepulchre. The great use of red and green (as well as the costume) indicates the date, which can be very little later than that of the church. In the chancel, which is of unusual breadth, are 12 Miserere stalls, on one of which is carved a fox carrying off 3 hens, a design which must have greatly edified the Cluniac brother to whose lot it fell. N. is a richly canopied Peip. altar-tomb, the occu- pant unknown. S., piscina, and 8 sedilia with detached pilasters. The E. window is by Willement. Tlie vestry contains a rich church chest, with Dec. carving. On the S. wall of chancel is a memorial commemorating " the change of nature in its last tour" of one Stejihen Bax ; and l>elow, the brass of William Thornbury, vicar of Faversham, d. 1448. The inscrip- tion " Credo in Sanct. Eccles. Cath." is said to have been then used to in- dicate the infalliV)ility of the clergy in opposition to the Lollards, the preposition being properly applied only to the clauses relating directly to the' Deity (Lewis' Life of Pococke). At the end of the S. aisle is a tomb with Dec. canopy, called King Stephen's — how truly is quite mi- certain. Stowe asserts that after the dissolution the king's body was thrown into the river for the sake of the lead about it. On the floor are the remains of a fine brass, com- memorathig some " probus et dignus vir '' whose name has i^erished, and a perfect one of Henry Hatche and his wife (1500), great benefactors to the town. Above is the mural monu- ment of Thomas Mendfield, " a pillar of the famous ports,' who kneels in a richly sleeved gown of office. Over the S. porch is a parvise chamber, in which, as in the watch- ing chamber of Canterburj' Cathe- dral, there is a tradition that a king was once confined. The whole of the exterior of the chiu-ch, as well as the interior of the chancel and transepts, have been recently re- stored by Mr. G. G. Scott, with his usual taste and ability. In the church was formerly a chapel of St. Thomas of Canterl)ury, and altars (greatly honoured) of St. Erasmus and SS. Crispin and Cris- pina. "No one died who had anj-thing to leave without giving something 68 Route 4. — Favcrsham. Sect. I. to St. Erasmus' light ;" and the other two were the special patrons of Favershain. During the persecution under Maximin they " fled from Kome into Great Britain, and came and dwelt at Faversham, where they learned to make shoes for a liveli- hood, and followed that trade for some time at a house in Preston Street, near the Crosse well, now the sign of the Swan." Long after the Keformation foreigners " of that gentle calling " were in the habit of making" considerable visits in pil- grimage"' to tliis house. — Lmn's. (The Swan still exists, but " quantum mutatus. ") Another legend pointed out a heap of stones at the shore at Stone Point, near Lydd, as the grave of Crispin and Crispina, wlio were said to have been shipwTecked there. (See Kte. 13.) They are unnoticed in tlie ' Aurea Legenda ' of Jacques de Voraiguc, the great storehouse of similar traditions. After Agincom-t the festival of St. Crispin was the . chief holiday of the town. " This story shall the good man te;ich las son ; And Crispin Ciispian shall ne'er go by From this day to the ending of the world, But we in it shall be remembered." Across the elmrchyard a gate opens to the grammar school, origin- ally founded in 15:27 for novices in the abbey. After the dissolution tlie estates appropriated to this scliool fell into the king's hands, and were regranted by E]izal)eth to the pre- sent foundation. The house was built, 1577, at the town's expense. A small library is attached. Beyond the school, a low arched door, at the wall corner, is pointed out as that through which the body of "Ardeu of Faversham" was car- ried by his murderers to be laid in the field adjoining, then called the "Ambry Croft." His house is tliat seen aljove tlie wall ; a long steep- roofed building, which had belonged to the abljcy, and l)ecame the pro- perty of " Master Arden," after his purchase of the site. Religious em- blems, relics of the monks, were to be seen in some of the windows in Pemianfs time ; and in those of "the great room" were the arms of Sir Edw. North, father-in-law of Alice Arden. Notlnng of this now remains, and the disposition of the rooms has been altered. For the fidl story of the nnuxler, which pro- duced a tragedy long held to be Shakspcare's,- and which induced Spelman to allot a conspicuous place to Master Arden in his 'History of Sacrilege,' the reader must be re- ferred to HoHnshed, who, " for the horriblenesse thereof," inserted it in his Chronicles. . . . Mistress Alice, " young, tall, and well-favoured of shape and countenance," had " fallen in familiaritie " with one Mosbye, a " black swart man," and an old ser- vant of her father-in-law's ; and at last conspired with him to kill her husband, taking as helpmates " one Green of Faversham '" and " Black Will, a terrible cruel rufKan," who had acquired much evil experience during the French wars. After watching Master Arden in Tjondou, " walking in Poule's," and after twice lying in wait for him to no pm-pose, once on Rainham Down, and again in the " broomye-close " between Faversham and the Shep- pey ferry, they at last arranged to kill him in liis own house during St. Valentine's fair, which was close at hand. Black Will was accordingly hidden in a closet at the end of Arden's parlorn-, Feb. 15, " being Sunday ;" and when Arden came in at supper-time, he " sat down to play a game at the tables " with Mosbye, who had his face toward the place where Black Will stood, whilst Green " stood at hismaister's back holding a candell in his hand, to shaddowe Black Will wlien he .should come out." At a signal during the game BlackWill" slept forth and cast a towell round Arden's neck, nearly strangling liim. Mosbve then com- Kent. Route 4. — Faversham. 69 pleted the work ; and, finally, IMistress Alice herself came into the coimtry house, where the body was laid, and " with a knife gave him 7 or 8 pricks into the breast." Then she sent for certain Londoners who chanced to be in the town, and after supper they "danced and played on the virgi- nals and were merrie." After the guests were gone the body was car- ried out by the door already named, into the Ambry Croft, where " they laid him on his back in liis night- gown, with his slippers on." Then Alice alarmed the town, and " the maj^or and others came to search for her husband. He was found in the Croft ; but " a long rushe or two " from the parlour floor stuck between one of his slippers and his foot, and they " espied certajnie footsteppes by reason of thesnowe," which began to fall just as they were carrying him out. IMistress Arden was at once accused ; and, " herself l^eholding her husband's bloud, said, 'Oh the' bloud of God help! for this bloud have I shed !' " Mosbye was taken in bed, and afterwards hung at Smithfield, as was Green at Faversham. Mistress Alice was burned at Canterbury. Black Will was taken some years after, and " brent on a scaffolde at Flushing." It v>-as said that no grass would grow on the field where Arden's body iiad lain, " wliich field he liadde, as some have reported, cruelly taken from a widow woman, who had cursed him most bitterly, even to liis face . . . wishing that all the world might wonder on him." — Ho- Jinshed. Lewis thought the grass was kept bare by art, as was done by spots on the Castle Glreen at Colchester, where Sir Charles Lucas and Sir G. Lisle fell when shot. The whole story is a strange and striking illustration of the condition of society at this most disjointed time. Compare the Stourhead mm-- der, nearly contemp. {Stnjpe's Me- morials.) Some extensive and expensive natidhal schools, the efiect of which, though of gTeat pretension, is far from satisfactoiy, have lately been erected in Faversham. Of more in- terest are some wooden and par- geted houses in the town, esijecially two in East Street, near the principal Inn. Pennant mentions the " wain- scote of a house near the abbey-gate, where were carved profiles of Ste- phen and Matilda, and a figure of Stephen in a boat drawn by a swan." For these 'the visitor may perhaj^s search with better success than om-- selves. Faversham has entertained sundry great personages in their way to and from Canterbury. In 1519, "spiced brede, wine, and here," for the king and queen, cost the to^Ti 1/. Os. 5^d. ; " wine and capons to my lord cardi- nall, 18s. 9d." It was here that James II. was detained, after his at- tempt to escape by way of Shecrness. {Macaidiaj, ii. 569.) He had been "rudely pushed and pulled about by the boatmen of the coast." " His money and watch were taken from him, but his diamonds escaped, being taken for bits of glass." (Maeatday). This usage he never forgave ; and the amnesty offered in the fourth year of his exile was accompanied by a long list of exceptions, " in which the poor fishermen who had searched his pockets rudely, ap- peared side by side with Churchill and Danby." (574.) There is a very ancient guild of oyster-fishers comiected witli the hundred of Faversham, wliich has a custom " that none shall receive free- dom of the guild who are not married men." (For the fisheries themselves see Etc. 8). The growth of madder was first introduced here and at Dartford, in 1660, by one M. Crispe. The powder-mills, now at some dis- tance, but formerly adjoining Faver- sham, are among the most important in the kingdom. In the neighljour- hood are some curious chalk caverns, JO liotite 4. — Davliiijton. — Ospringe. Sect. I. or pits, with columns. These exca- vations were, until the last few ^ars, constantly used by the gipsy ladies as a rethement during their most " interesting " periods ; and regular- nurses were always resident in them. Hegdale pit is the largest. Camden thought them (as they probably are) British excavations for chalk dress- ing. (Compare the pits at Dartford and Crayford, Etc. 2 ; and at E. Til- bury, Ete. 1.) About 2 m. from Faversham, be- yond the canal, is JJuvingion village and priory, the site most probably of the Duroievum of Antonine's Itine- rary. Many Eoman relics have been found here ; and recently a very curious medijeval head-covering, the ancient " cap of fence," formed of octagonal j^lates of iron, quilted neatly between two layers of coarse canvas. (See Trans, of Arclixol. In- stitute.) Tlie Priory (now the re- sidence of Thomas Willement, Esq., F.S.A.) was Benedictine, founded by Fulke de Neweuham in 1153, and called, from the smallness of the estate, the house of the " poor nuns of Davington." The church, dedi- cated to St. Mary Magdalene, has been most carefully repaired and decorated by Mr. Willement, to whom the parishioners are indebted for the restoration of divine service. It seems to indicate a much earlier date than the foundation of tlie Priory. The E. window and low S. aisle are later E. E. additions. The W. end, witli its 5 remarkable round-headed win- dows, and the plain circidar arches witli broad sofletes within, may pos- sibly bo anterior to tlie Conquest. The registers of this clim-ch, which have been continued with gTeat care, commence at the early date of the sixth year of Edward VI. ; and al- though a donative, it is privileged to (execute all the rights of a parochial church. The house itself is a por- tion of the ancient priorj*. The Norm, arch, wliich formerlj^ con- nected the cloisters with the refec- tory, remains ; together with the western side of the cloisters them- selves, and the entrance-hall in gi-eat part : all of the time of Edw. I. The cloister still has its heavily-moulded ceiling of chestnut Avood, temp. Edw. III. Great alterations were made in the apartments aboixt the time of Elizabeth. Closely adjoining Faversham, S., is Preston, the church of which an- ciently belonged to Christ Church, Canterbmy. It stands wdl, near the Loudon Eoad, and, although de- prived of its old tower, is very pic- tm-esque. The. chancel, with single side-laiicets, is interesting, though the eliect has been much damaged by an E. window of discordant character, lately inserted. On the S. side are sedilia, much decorated. The N. is occui^ied by a large and elaborate monument, with effigy, for Eoger Boyle, tather of the first Earl of Cork, and grandfather of the good and great philosopher. Its present dilapidated condition reflects much discredit on the family whose an- cestor it commemorates ; and its entire ruin will no doubt be accele- rated by the recent removal of its iron giiard-rails. The nave is re- markable for the arrangement of the pews, from which the pulpit, placed in the centre of the N. wall, is the great point of observation. At Ospringe (1 m. S.) was a Mai- son Dieu, or hospital, foimded by Henry II. There was a " Camera Eegis" in it for the king's nsewheii he went to France via Dover. King John's Itinerary shows him frequently at Ospringe. The hospital was in the liauds of the Templars. A window or two alone remain. When the E. Kent Eailway is completed one of the most beautiful views on the line will present itself here, on emerging from the cutting through Beacon Hill, showing, on the left hand, the Bysing Wooils, the German Ocean, Davington Priory and Churcb, Fa- versham Chuix-h and town, and, be- Kent. Route 4. — The Blean. 71 yond, the steep hills covered with the extensive woods of the Blean. About 2 ni. S. of Ospringe is the large Perp. Church of Skeldioich. Brass: Sir Richard Attelese and his wife Dionisia, 1394 (very good). In the neighbourhood is Lees Court (Lord Sondes). Proceeding towards Canterbury, the road passes 1. (I85 m.), Nash Court, the seat of the Hawkins family since the reign of Edw. III. 5 m. further it enters the village of Boughton-under-Blean, Sii which point the servant of Chaucer's rich canon, the alchemist who could pave with gold " all the road to Canterbvuy town," overtook the company of pilgi-uus. The church (E. E., with Perj). additions) lies among low hills about 1 m. S. [A walk across the country to Chilham, by Selling, with its E. E. church and fine old yews, will afford some pleasant views of the country, with distant glimpses of sea, and the wooded hills of the Blean as a foreground. The dis- tance is about 5 m. The E. window of Selling Chm-ch is early Dec., and contains in its tive lower lights a beautiful arrangement of stained- glass, well worth notice. The cen- tral compartment in each light has a canopy with a figure iiuder it, beneath wliich is a shield of arms, in this order, counting from the north : Clare, France, England (the fom-th is wanting), and Warren. The foiu'th is said to hav(; been Castile ; and the glass dates from the end of the 13th ccntiuy.] At Bougliton commenced the an- cient forest of the Blean (the mean- ing of the name is uncertain), a tract of wild countiy reaching nearly to Canterbury, the character of wlaich is indicated by the many names such as Selling, Seldwicii, Selgrave (An- glo-Saxon, sel -wood, covert), occur- ring throughout it. Before and after tlie Conquest the kings of England made grants of large portions of it to the neighbouring religious houses, till i^early all was separated from the Crown. Thus it gradually lost the privileges of a forest, and was known only as " The Blean." Wild boar abounded in it as late as the Re- formation (Twine de Reb. Alb.). The rare yellow pine marten is still occasionally found here. Much chesnut is scattered through the woods. On Shottenden Hill, rt. of the road, in the Blean — a point crowned with a dark clump of trees, terminating a long wooded ridge, and visible from all the high ground in the neighbourhood — is a camp, probably Roman. It has 4 irregular sides, which follow the rounding of the hill, and is worth visitnig for the sake of the wide view over all this part of Kent. A large deposit of silver coins, of the dates of Charles I. and XL, was found here a few years since. [At the foot of Bough- ton Hill a road 1. leads to Heme Hill, in the churchyard of which Courtenay, the Canterbury fanatic, was buried ; and Graveney, an E.E. ch. of some interest. The pro- portions are unusually good. In the S. aisle is the altar-tomb (Dec.) " Roberti Dodde R. de Fevcrsham filii ; " and in the N. aisle is the largo and very fine brass of Sir John Mar- tin, Chief Baron (d. 1436), and wife. He wears his official robes with a coif. In his hands is a heart, in- scribed " IHU., Mcr." His lady wears the horned head dress. The salt marshes here stretch up toward the steep hills of the Blean, of which the outlines are striking.] Bough- ton Hill rises beyond the village ; and from the top the traveller jour- neying E. should look back over the road he has already passed. This is one of the great views of Kent, commanding a wide stretch of varied and richly wooded country, with an expanse of sea dotted with Thames-bound sails and fishing- boats. It wants, however, the great historical interest of the Thanet prospects. 72 Route 4r. — DunhirJi. — Harhledoicn. Sect. I. Here, 20 m., are the cli. ^and schools of Thinkirl; huilt after the *' Courtenay '" outbreak in 1S3S, when it became evident how greatly they were needed among the almost wild people of the Bleau. The name of " Dunkirk " was first given to the village about a century since by a set of squatters who took possession of the groimd, then extra-parochial, as of a " free port," from which no one could dislodge them. The dis- trict, including the greater part of the forest, was afterwards erected into a separate " vUle,"' called the " Vdle of Dunkirk.' Xear the head of the hUl a gate 1. leads into Bos- senden Wood, in which (May, 183S) " Sir William Courtenay, the Knight of Malta," after his remarkable Can- terbury pilgrimage and his release from imprisonment for perjury, was shot with 8 of his followers. These, whom he had collected from all the neighbotiring villages, regarded him as a superhuman being, who was to " restore them^ their own." His ex- traordinary resemblance to the u^ual Italian type of the Saviour no doubt influenced his whole career, and ma- terially assisted in procuring him fol- lowr rs, with whose names the trees in the wood are stUl marked. An elaborate history of the " rise, pro- gress, and death " of Sir Wilham — who was in reality John Xichols Tom, a Comishman, of Truro — was printed in Canterbury in 1838. A remarkable view of Canterbury Cathedral, terminating a long stretch of straight road, occurs shortly be- yond " Courtenays Gate." It was here that the pilgrims first caught sight of the " golden angel " with which the Great Towerwas anciently crowned. The country is stUl much broken on either side, and the woods are ftdl of picturesque hoUows and open- ings. The true " Canterbury bell " abounds in them. Everywhere occur hop-groimds, with their drying-ovens like the air-fans on the roofs oi Egyptian houses. In the middle growth the fields themselves re- semble low oak-coppices : later, the clusters and dark leaves have a beauty of their own which many a Khenish vineyard " combed along the hills " might envy. The Elizabethan house, rt. 26 ra., is the residence of Sidney Cooper, Esq., E.A. This is the artist "s native ground. The 3 cows over the en- trance are here doubly significant. Harhledoicn, h m. beyond, is Chau- cer's " little town,'' " which that ycleped is Bob up and down. Under the Blee in Canterbury way.'' The fitness of the name is still fully evi- dent, and the road is still " declivis utrinque abrupto aggere," as when described by Erasmus in his 'Peregri- natio Eehgionis ergo.' The vUlage grew up about the ancient lazar- house, founded by Abp. Lanfranc about 10^)6 for leprous men and women, which, with its ivy-covered ch. and pictm-esque gatehouse, is seen on the 1. The hospital is de- dicated to S. Nicholas, a favourite saint of Lanfranc and the early Nor- mans, probably from the immediate patronage extended to them by Pope Nicholas III. both in Cam- pania and in England (see Milman, ' Latin Christianity,' ui.). The site was perhaps chosen from the reputed virtues of a spring close below the building, and now called the " Black Prince's "U'ell,'' from a false tradition that the water was sent to him during his last illness in Canterbiuy, where he did not die. The TV*, door of the ch. is Norman, and with the pillars and round arches on the N. side of the nave probably forms part of Lanfranc's original foundation. The S. side of nave is E. E. All this part is unused. The chofr is filled with benches for service, which is performed once a-week. The hospital itself has been lately re- built. In the haU is preserved a chest containing a maple bowl, on which is engraved Guy of "Warwick's Kent. Route 5. — Rochester to Maidstone. fight with the ckagon, with a large ; crystal inlaid in the centre ; and a rude box, with a chain, and a sUt for ' money in the lid. The hospital formerly boasted of possessing the | upper leather of Beckefs shoe, in j which a crystal was set : and one of ' the brethren, wheneyer pilgrims j went by, appeared on the steps lead- ! ing down into the road ixom the doorway, to sprinkle them with holy water and present the relic to be kissed, after which a " nmn- midus " was of course expected. So Erasmus describes the scene in his ' Peregrinatio,' when his companion Colet's indignation got the better of his prudence, and Erasmus bestowed his coin in pity for the almsman's injured feelings. Mr. Stanley sug- gests that the crystal now in the bowl is the same as that formerly set in the shoe, and that in the box with the slit " we can hardly doubt the coin of Erasmus was deposited." The original endowment was added to by subsequent archbps. ; and the establishment now consists of master, 15 brethren, and 15 sisters within and the same number without the walls. Opposite is the parish church of Harbledown — of no interest. The hospital was sometimes called " de bosco de Blean,"' which came close up to its walls : and on the edge of the wood were the archbishop s gallows (furcae archiep.) for his hundred of Westgate. A "^superb yiew of Canterbury opens from Harbledown, at which point the pilgrims began to assume a more reyerend demeanour ; and Chaucer's last story, told here, is a sermon. Nothing can be more striking than the great mass of the cathedral, with the hooded roof of the chapter-house lying monklike beside it, lifting its deep shadows against the clear blue of the midday sky, or fliishcd all oyer with the rosy glow of simset. Far in the distance are yisible the white cliffs of Pegwell Bay, luider which Augustine landed. [Kent <£- Sussex.^ From a field, rt., on the brow of the hDl, is a good yiew of the winding yalley of the Stour, through which the railway passes : and 1. a path through the churchyard leads across to St. Thomas's HiU, and commands throughout some of the best general yiews of Canterbury. The Uttle Becket Chapel, which gaye name to St. Thomas's HiU, has found a far worthier successor in the large School for Orplian Sons of the Clergy, which now crowns the highest point. The building is Dec, from the designs of P. Hardwicke, Esq., and the arrange- ments throughout are admirable. Institution and building are alike worthy of the " 3Ietropolitical City," and deserye a yisit as well for their own sake as for the magnificent yiew commanded from the site. For Canterbury, 28 m., which the road here enters through the suburb of St. Dunstan's, see Rte. 8. I ROUTE 5. I ROCHESTER TO MAIDSTONE. ! The railway, for the wliole dis- I tance, follows tlie 1. bank of the ; Medway. The old turnpike, which keeps iiigh ground, and commands some yery picturesque yiews, runs on the opposite side of the riyer. The best point on this road is imme- diately aboye Aylesford, where a j yeiy extensiye prospect toward the W. is commanded. Shortly after leaying the station at 7-i Route 5. — Lucldesdon. — Ilolhorough, Sect. I. Strood, the tourist slioiild look back toward Roche.stCT, the view of which from the railway is remarkable. 1., the lines of Fort Clarence, now used as a military asylum, climb the bauk from the river. At 3 m., Cuxton, the IMedway passes through the range of chalk hills, a continuation of the North Downs, extending above Eeigate and Dork- ing into Hampshire. From this point 1. the range crosses the county of Kent diagonally — (it is sometimes called " the back-bone of Kent") — and unites itself with the broader mass of chalk behind Folkstone. The Medway is navigable for barges nearly to Maidstone, and, by the" aid of locks, as high as Tun- bridge. The banks of the river, from Rochester to Maidstone, were thickly peopled dming the Roman period; and "there is scarcely a field throughout its whole extent in which we may not find some ti'aces of Roman buildings or of Roman burial-places."— IFr /(;/</. As on the line of the Watling-street, Roman bricks and tiles are frequently found here, worked into the walls of the neighbouring churches. The woods of Cobham are seen rt. from the Cuxton station. [In the Cliurch of Lucldesdon, among the hills, 2 m. rt., is an altar-tomb, witli a brass, temp. Hen. VI., probably intended for Sir James Montacute, a natm-al son of the great Earl of Salis- bury, the "mirror of all martial men," killed at the siege of Orleans. The manor of Luddesdon was be- queathed by the Earl to tliis James Montacute.] Close under the chalk hills, on the opposite bank of the river, are tlie chvu-ch and village of Woiddham. The gi-eater part of the ch., including tlie tower, with its projecting tm-ret, characteristic of this part of Kent, is late Perp., and was built by Stephen Slegge, one of the cliief landowners here, temp. Hen. VI. Farther down the river are some remains of the mansion of Starkeys, dating from the reign of Henry VII., when it was tlie residence of a family of the same name. The railway here enters the parisli of Hcdling, the "mark" or settle- ment of the Saxon Hallangas, and a very ancient possession of the see of Rochester, whose bishops had a pa- lace here hj the river-side, of which, however, only scanty fragments re- main. Richard Archbishop of Can- terbury, the successor of Becket, died here in 1184. Bishop Hamo de Hethe ri322) repaired and added to the palace, but it was abandoned before the Reformation, although the parish still belongs to the see. The few walls remaining are a short dis- tance from the ch., seen 1. from the rail. In the nave is a brass for Sylvester, ■wife of William Dalyson, 1587. At Longridge, in this parish, a manor formerly belonging to tlie Bavents, is a gi'oup of Elizabethan chimneys worth notice. The scenery above Hailing is pleasant. The hill-sides toward Luddesdon are covered wth wood, through which runs the ancient track called the "Pilgrims' Way," passing toward Canterbury. Shortly before reaching the next station, 6 m. Snodland, the rail passes the hamlet of Holhorough (Holanbeorge, the "biuy," with a cave or hollow). The hill rising above this village has apparently been foiiified, al- though the traces have been nearly obliterated. Close below the top of the hill are the remains of a large Roman barrow, opened by Mr. Wright in 1844, when it proved to have been raised over the ashes of a funeral pile. Some long nails, pro- bably used for fastening the fi-ame- work on which the body was laid, and part of a Roman fibula, were found in the thin bed of wood-ashes above which the barrow, probably the monument of some person of rank, had been piled to a height of Kent. Route 5. — Siiodland. — Aylesford. 75 20 ft. The view from this hill ex- tends far and wide over the valley of Maidstone — as the district is called Ijdiig between the chalk ranges on either side of the river, and the wooded heights S., which extend from IMaidstone above the Mailings to Addington and Wrotham. In the neiglibourhood is Hol- horotigh House (W. Lee, Esq.). The Church of Snodland, close to the station, contains portions from E. E. to Perp., and is interesting. The windows are filled with modern stained glass. There are some frag- ments of ancient glass here of con- siderable value as examples ; and the modern glass by Mr. Nixon, in the E. window of the chancel, boldly innovating, exhibits fidl- leng-th portraits of Protestant mar- i}TS — Cranmer, Ridley, Latimer, and, more daring still, of Anne Askew. " As an example of a 19tli century design, adapted to a late Perp. window, the work is of gTcat merit." — C. Winston. The side-lancets (E. E.) of the chancel are unusually nari'ow. Roman bricks and tiles are worked up in the walls. In Church-field, on the bank of the river close below, are traces of a Roman villa of considerable size. These have never been thoroughly examined. " Stone-grave Field " is the name of an adjoining meadow. Across the river, and also seen from the rail, is the Chiucli of Bur- ham, held by the Knights Hospital- lers initil the dissolution. It has some E. E. portions. Here is a quarry belonging to W. H. Bensted, Esq., which presents a good section of the lower chalk, and is rich in fossil remains, "rivaling in tliis re- spect the quarries near Lewes, Worthing, and Arundel, in Sussex." — Mantell. An important fossil turtle {Chelonia Benstedi), portions of a Raphiosaurus, and some very interesting relics of birds, apparently a species of albatross, are among the most remarkable discoveries made here. All are due to tlie research of Mr. Bensted himself, whose " Igua- nodon quariy " in the Kentish rag near Maidstone, where the first great skeleton of the monster was dis- covered, is classic groimd to the geologist. From the Burham lime-works, of which the .smoking kilns are seen along tlie river-side, great part of tlie metropolitan builders are sup- plied. The valley of the Mcdway here becomes of considerable width, but is scarcely picturesque. The view, however, as the line reaches 8 m. Aylesford, is very sti-iking. The church-tower and red roofs of the old town look out from cluster- ing elm-trees of great size and beauty; and the chalk hills, here dotted with wood, apiiroach near enough to form a good backgTOimd. Aylesford (Pop.''2000), the JEgeles- ford of the Sax. Chron., so named perhaps from the Latin-Wel.sh Eijhnjs, a clmrch — the "Church-ford"' (" Aylesford church, which prolmbly occupies the same site as the Welsh Eglwys, is situated on the top of the bank overhanging the village, and its remarkalile position exj^lains the propriety of the name " — Guest — Kemble, however, considers the name of this place, like Aylesbiu-y and A3'leswortli, to be compounded with that of Eigil or Egil, the an- cient hero of the nortlieru races, to whom, in his capacity as a miglity archer, the wide-spread story of William Tell properly belongs — Sax. in Eng., i. 422) — is fixed on, in the Sax. Chron., as the scene (a. 455) of the first great battle between Hengist and Vortigern, in which Horsa fell. At Horsted (2 m. N.) a heap of fiint-stones is pointed out as his grave, which is, how- ever, also shown at Horsham and Horsted in Sussex. The archjeolo- gist must decide for himself whether he will accept the literal interpreta- tion of the Sax. Chron. with Dr. E 2 76 lioute 5. — Aylesford — The Friary. Sect. I. Guest {Proceedings of Areh;vol. In- stitute, 1S49), or, with Kcmblc and JMr. Wright, consider tlie story of tlie l)attlc as a mtrc legend, founded on tlie existence of a great British ceme- tery on the hills above tlie town. The town of Aylesford consists of one long street on the rt. bank of the Medway, here crossed by a bridge of considerable anti(iuity. The cli., at the end of the street, is princi- pally Norman, and interesting. It contains one hrass, John and Sarah Cosynton, 1426, and some later monu- ments for the Colepepers of Preston Hall ; for the Sedleys and Kycauts, who held the Friary here after the dissolution ; and for Sir John Banks, who succeeded them. The Friary (Charles Whatman, Esq.), the wall of which, skirting the river, is seen from the station, was ftmiided, in 1240, 1)y Richard Lord ■Grey of Codnor, and disputes with Nev/enden, on the borders of Sussex, the honoiu' of having been the first house of Carmelites established in England. The arrival of these friars was, says Bale, foretold by Simon Stock, a Kentish hermit, who had lived in a hollow tree from his 12th year, but who then " quitted his oak, and advanced forward to meet tliem, as of whom, though he had no sight, he had a vision before ; which is i^ro- bably as true as that he was fed 7 years with manna in ]\Iount Carmid." — Fuller. Stock was chosen general of the Order, and died at Bordeaux in 12G3. In 124.5 the first general ehapter of the Order throughout Europe was held here at Aylesford. The site of the Friary, after the dissolution, was granted to Sir Thomas Wyatt of Allingion, who lost it, witli his other lands, on his rebellion in the first yiar of Queen Mary. Elizabeth granted it to Jolui Sedley, of Southfleet, whose de- scendants continued to reside here luitil the reign of Charles I., when tl)e place was sold to Sir Peter Ey- fuut. Aftei' passing througli many other hands, it came to Heneage Finch, created Earl of Aylesford in 1714, whose representatives still pos- sess it. Su- Charles Sedley, the fa- mous wit of Charles II. 's days, was born here ; and diu-ing the Eycaut domination. Sir Paul Rycaut, dis- tinguished as an Eastern traveller dm'ing the latter part of the 17th centiuy. Much of tlie ancient Friary was retained in the existing dwelling- house, although its successive occu- piers have introduced their own alterations and additions. Sir John Banks, especially, toward the end of the 17th century, changed and interfered much with the ancient arrangements. Some remains of a Norman keep, with walls about 10 ft. high, are said to exist in the town of Aylesford, and may be sought out by the antiquary. In the High-street is a Iwspital for (J pool', founded by John Sedley of the Friars, temp. Eliz. The buildings were not erected until after his death. The late Perp. doorway should be noticed. A large stone-ware pottery is worked a short ihstance E. of the town, on tlieliank of the river, where is also one of the large paper-mills which are not less frequent on the Medway than on the Darcnt. Their tall chimneys, and the long lines of smoking chalk-kilns under the hills, are marked features of the river valley. On the hill-side, above tlie town, is Cosentoii, now a farm-house, but occupied by a family of the same name from the reign of John to that of Henry VIII. On this estate, to- ward the coppices of Boxley Hill, are some springs wdiich impart a bright carmine colour to whatever is dijiped in theiii. They are said not to lie chalybeate. The best view over the valley of the Medway is obtained from this hill-side, immediately above the cele- brated cromlech called Kit's Coity Kent. Route 5. — K^s Coity House. 11 House. There is a tolerable country Lt,r here (the Bell), by the side of the Maidstone road. The cromlech itself, by far the largest monument of its class in this part of England, forms a small chamber, open in front, and consists of 4 blocks, 3 of wliich are uprights, and the 4th laid on them as a covering-stone. Of the two side stones, one measmx's 7 ft. by Ik, aiul is '2 ft. thick, the weight about 8^ tons. Tiie other is 8 ft. by 8j, weighing aliout 8 tons. The capstone is. 12 ft. by 9;^, 2^ ft. thick, and weighs about lO^ tons. The .sandstone of which they consist be- longs to the geological formation of the district, large boulders of it oc- curring frequently in the tertiary drift or loam found on the top of the chalk hills. Like others of its class. Kit's Coity House was no donl)t originally a sei^ulchral monument, though the legend which makes it the tomb of the British chief Katigern, killed here in a battle with the Saxons, must be altogether discarded. {Kilt's Hill on Hengstone Down, Cornwall, and Kites House on Dartmoor, are names also given to ancient tombs ; perhaps from the Celtic likl, a hollow. Kit's Coity may thus be ked-coit — the tomb in the wood (Brit.), which once spread over the hill-side, and of which the venerable yews, which the tovrrist should especially remark, are relics.) It has been suggested that the battle was traditionally fixed here from ancient recollections con- nected with the site, which recent research has proved to be that of a great British cemetery — the " Car- nac " of Kent. The cromlech is the centre of a gi"oup of moniunents, which there is great reason to be- lieve was connected by a long stone avenue with another group in the jiarish of Addingion (see post, Ex- cursion from Maidstone), a distance of 7 m. "Together they seem to have formed the grand necropolis of the Belgian settlers in this part of the island." — Wright. The line of connecting boulders has been traced at intervals throughout the distance ; and they even occur in the bed of the river, where was an ancient ford. Some of them are artificially placed ; others are sandstone boulders in their natural site. Of the monuments about Kit's Coity House, remark esjiecially the Coiiufless Stones, a group in the middle of a iield close below. " They are apparently the remains of one of those more complicated cromlechs, consisting of more than one sepulchral chamber with an alley of apjiroach, which, in Brittany and tlie Channel Islands, are popu- larly known by the name of ' Fairies" Alleys.' " The belief that these stones cannot be counted is one con- stantly found connected with similar rt-mains. In the hollow l)elow is a slab called the Coffin Stone. The brow of the hill above the great cromlech " is covered with smaller monuments of the same descriijtion, consisting generally of groups of stones buried jiartly in the ridge of the hill, but evidently forming, or having formed, small sepulchral chambers. Each group is generally sm-rouiukd by a circle of stones. At the bottom of the bank, near the road, a little dis- tance behind Kit's Coity House, is a hollow in the chalk, with the heads of large stones of the same descriiJ- tion projecting out at each side, as though they had formed an avenue leading to an entrance in the side of the hill." — Wright. Many deposits of British coins have been found in this neighbourhood. A lioulder on the top of the hill (now destroyed) was formerly known as the "White Hoi'se stone," and pointed out as that on which Hengist was installed " first king of Kent." In addition to the cromlechs, a series of veiy remarkable excavations, also to all appearance sepulchral, extends for a considerable distance along the brow of the chalk hills on 78 Routs 5. — Longsole. — Maidstone. Sect. I. either side of the river. These are large circuhir shafts, descending like wells, and opening at the bottom into one or more chambers. (Comp. the excavations at East Tilbury, Ete. 1, and at Craijford and Dart- ford, Ete. 2.) On the hill above Kit's Coity House, however, and within the limits of Aylesford Com- mon, are a number of flat stones, which cover the entrances to deep pits filled to the top with flints. These seem to be of the same cha- racter with the open pits ; and it is possible that the remains of the British chieftain still rest in the chamber below, the pit having been filled up with flints after their dejjo- sition. " Similar tombs have been found in Etrmia and in the East." — Wrlgld. A thorough examination of these Kentish pits would perhajis well reward the archaeologist. On the hill side, close below, are indications of a veiy extensive Ro- man villa. Great quantities of broken pottery have been found here ; and Blr. AV right discovered traces of the destruction of the building by fire — the usual fate of most of the Roman dwellings (Umng the anarchy that followed the dei^artm-e of the legion- aries. A Roman burial-ground ex- isted a short distance N. of this villa. Soon after leaving Aylesford, rt. of the rail is seen Preston Hull (Edward Ladd Bi-tts, Esq.), a handsome niu- deru Tudor building, in digging the foundations for wliich a quantity of British silver coins were discovered. The house stands in a park orna- mented with fine old trees ; and is surrounded by extensive gardens and grounds well laid out and planted. It contains a small but veiy good collection of pictures and works of art, among which is Madise's wrest- ling scene from ' As you Like It,' where a view of the park front of Preston Hall occurs in the back- ground. The original mansion here was the residence of the Colcjiepers, or Culpepers, from the reign of John to the beginning of the last centmy. A date on a barn of large propor- tions, still remaining in excellent preservation, which long passed for 1102, and occasioned much contro- versy, is no doubt 1502. The barn, wliich must have witnessed not a few agricultural changes, now serves for the modern appliances of steam-ma- chinery, &c., required by an exten- sive farm. At Longsole, on the skirts of Mai- ling Wood, rt., was an ancient free chapel, now used as a barn, and called the Hermitage. It is Dec. in character. Nearly opposite, 1., the walls of Allington Castle (see post) are seen between the trees. Wood- covered hills rise close on either side of the river ; and through broad- spreading gTeen meadows the train reaches, 12 m., Maidstone, the principal town of West Kent, and the assize town for the whole county ; in the most richly cultivated district of which it is situated. (Pop. 20,000. Inns : the Mitre, best ; the Bell ; the Star ; the Queen's Head.) Numerous Roman remains found at Maidstone, esijccially in the parish of St. Faith's, sufficiently prove the existence of a station here, although there may be some doubt whether it represents, as has been usually siqj- posed, the Vagiiiacx of the Antojiine Itinerary. At a later period the town seems to have been known as "ad Madum," from the latinised name of the river. Its Saxon name Med- ircgslon became at last contracted to Mcddestane and Maidstone. It is still pronounced " Medston " in the vernacular of the district. The town stretches upwards from the rt. bank of the river, and con- sists of four principal sti'eets, unit- ing a little beyond the Town-Hall. Gabled houses aud decorated fronts give it a somewhat pictm'esque cha- racter ; and the large cavalry bar- racks contribute colour and move- ment. On Thiu-sdays (market-days) Kext, Route 5. — Maidstone. the toiu-ist may make bis observa- tions on the " yeomen of Kent," wbo, with their wives and daughters, as- semble here in great numbers, and whose substantial appointments in- dicate very little decline from their ancient prosperity : — " A gentleiiKin of Wales, a knight of Cales, And a laird of the North Countrie — A yeoman of Kent, with his yearly rent, Will buy them out all three ! " Maidstone is the most important grain - market in the comity, tlie whole siuTOunding district being i-ich in corn, and famous for its hop- gTounds, which here form what is called the " middle growth of Kent." A large oil-mill, and extensive paper- mills (the latter among the most important in the kingdom), are esta- blished here on the bank of the Medway, the traffic on which is very considerable, the average tonnage annually passing AUington Lock, below the town, being 120,000 tons, and the tolls above 20,000?. A great quantity of timber from the Wealds of Kent and Sussex is barged down the river for the use of the doekj^ard at Chatham. In s^nte of its antiquity, no very important historical events are con- nected with Maidstone. Sir Thomas Wyatt of AUington, supported by some of the priuciijal landowners of this part of Kent, here commenced his rebellion in 1.554 (1st of Queen Mary). His proclamation, published at Maidstone " on tlie market-day," in the i)lace wlu're the Isleys and others of his al)ettors were afterwards beheaded, set forth that the " quarell was taken in hand for the defence of the realm from over-running by .strangers " (the Spaniards — the Queen's marriage was the apparent cause of tlie rising). "Wheras in veiy deed," says Proctor, the histo- rian of the rebellion, "hys only and very matter was the continuance of lieresye;" for which end one of his wealthy followers " offered to sell all his spoons, and sup his j^ottage with Ills mouth." In IG48 Fairfax, with 10,000 men, stormed the town, then held by about 2000 royalist troops under Sir John . Mayney. These lined tlie streets and houses, and, compelling Fairfax to gain every street inch by inch, after a struggle of live hoius retreated into the chiu-ch, from which they maile terms for their surrender. " It was," stiys Clarendon, " a sharp encounter, very bravely fought, with the general's (Fau'fax's) whole streng-th ; and the veteran soldiers confessed that they had never met with the like desjje- rate service during the war." Since this period Maidstone has had no history — a proof, in this case, of prosperity and not of decline. The celebrated engraver Woollet was a native of Maidstone. From a veiy early jieriod the manor was attached to the see of Canterbmy; but the archbishops had no residence here until the reign of John, when Wm. de Corn- hill is said to have given his house in the town to Archbishop Stephen Langton. A later ixilace, built per- haps on this site ; the Church ; and the CuUege or Hospital adjoining, are now the main objects of interest in Maidstone. The veiy large and important church is Perji. throughout ; and is to be assigned almost entirely to Abp. Courtenay (1381-139(3), who, after rebuilding the college, temp. Rich. II., obtained the king's licence to convert the parish church of St. Mary to a collegiate church, dedi- cating it afresh to All Saints. The chancel still contains 28 stalls of carved oak for the members of the college ; among the ornaments of which the arms of Abp. Courtenay are frequently repeated, and in the centre of the pavement is a slab from which the brasses have been removed, but still showing by th^jr matrices the figure of an archbishop. Tins is thought to have been a me- morial of Abp. Courtenay, rebuilder 80 Route 5. — Maidstone — The Church. Sect. L that the figure not represented as at Cuuter- the staff siir- of the ch., and, according to the leiger-boolc of Ch. Cli., Canterbury, actually interred at Canterbury, wliere his monument still exists, adjoining that of the Black Prince. There, is, however, some uncer- tainty as to the archbishop's real place of interment. Tlie ground underneath the slab in Maidstone ch. was examined in 1794, when a skeleton was discovered at the depth of (3 ft. ; but no ring or pastoral staff was found ; and, from the per- fect state of the teeth, the remains are thought to have been^ those of a younger man than Courtenay, vvdio, liowever, certainly died at Maidstone. His own will directs his burial in the ehurcliyard liere, thereby adding a fresh difficulty. It is remarkable on the brass was with the crozier, bury, but with mou.ited by a cross. Probalily the direct assertion of the Canterljury leiger-book should outweigh the doubtful evidence on the side of Maidstone. The ricldy-painted chan- cel screen should be noticed. Remark also a slab on the iJavement, from which the brasses have been re- moved, but whicli formerly covered the altar-tomb of Lord Rivers of tiie Mote, fatlier of Elizabeth, c[ucen of Edward IV. The sedilia are fine and elaborately ornamented ; but defaced by intrusive 17tli century monuments of Astlcys and KnatchbulLs. They were erected by John Wootton (d. 1417), first master of the college, whose canopied tomb is at the back, in the S. chancel. The brass has disappeared, but in the arch above the tomb is a very curious mural painting, the subject of which is the presentation of the deceased to the Virgin by a figure perhaps representing the archangel Gabriel. On either side are St. Catherine, 'and, perliaj)s, St. J\Iary IMagdalene ; and beyond them a .sainted bis'iop and archbishop, botli crowned witli a circular nimbus, and the latter wearing the pall. They probably represent Abp. Becket and Bp. Richard de la Wych of Chichester, the patron saints of the two cathe- drals with which Wootton was con- nected. (He was a canon of Chi- chester.) Here is also bm-ied William Grocyn, eleveuth master, the friend of Linacre and Erasmus, and one of the fii-st Greek innovators at Ox- ford. A cm'ious brass in the S. chancel aisle, of the Beale family, should be noticed ; and in the Arun- del chapel one for Rich. Beeston, lady, and children. In the vestry is a library, most of the books in which were given l)y a Dr. Bray in 173(3. One vol. of a folio Bible, however, and a missal, both dating about 1400, may, perhaps, have be- longed to the library of Abp. Cour- (enay's college. Tlie tower of Maidstone ch. was originally crowned 1 >y a wooden spire, 80 ft. high, whicli was destroyed by ligiitniug in Yl'M). S. of the church, and stretching down toward the river, is the Col- Ie(je, or Ilospiiul, of All Saints. In the year 12G0 Archbishop Boni- face founded the hospital of New- ark, at tlie entrance of the town from Wrotham, for the reception of poor travellers, and for the special benefit of pilgrims on their way to the great shrine at Canterbm-y. In 1395 this hospital was incorporated by Abp. Courtenay with the new college of secular i)riests (a master and six chaplains), founded by him, close to the parish church, which was at this tinie made collegiate. This college of All Saints continued to flourish under the patronage of the archbishops until the first year of Edward VI., wlien it was suppressed with similar foundations. The an- nual value of the college at this time was 212L The remains at present belong to Lord Romne_y, who made consider- able alterations here in 184.5. Tliey Kent. Route 5. — Maidstone — Archiej^iscopal Palace. 81 consist of a gateway tower, a long range of rooms between it and the river, terminated by a second tower, parts of the master's house, a ruined tower adjoining it, and a second or back gateway. The gateway tower is very line ; and witli tlie long adjoin- ing" range, originally the jariests apart- ments, and the lower tower above tlie river, is best seen from the churcli- yard. The grey of the Kentisli stone contrasts well with the ivy and vari- ously-tinted foliage waving and clus- tering about it. 1. of tlie gateway was the college bakehouse — probably for charitable purposes, since tlie prepa- ration of the brethi-en"s "manchets "' scarcely requu-ed such ample space. From the top of the tower there is a fine view over the town and river. Above the archway is a noble apartment, which was perhaps never completed, since the crown of the arcli forms tlie only flooring in the centre. In the long range rt. of the gateway were the refectory and kitchen, and above them a row of dormitories. A cloister toward the court was removed in 1845. At the top of the river tower, which termi- nates this range, is a room which iias been called the Treasuiy. The master's house, occupying the side of the court toward the river, has been greatly changed and added to, but still retains some part of its ancient arrangements. The ruined tower adjoining the back gateway seems to have been connected with it. The gateway which leads into the open country lies between two barns, themselves part of the ori- ginal buihliugs. Detailed notices of all these remains will be found in a Historn of the College of All Saints, Maidstone, hi/ the liev. Beale Paste. Whittaker, 1847. N. of the ell. is the ancient archi- episcopal Falace, tolerably perfect, and now divided into 2 private dwelling-houses. Abp. Ufford began to rebuild it in 1348 ; the materials of the ruined palace at Wrotliam were devoted to its completion by Abp. Islip ; Abp. Courtenay added to it ; and finally Abj). Morton (1486) enlarged and adorned it. The existing building (with the excep- tion of the E. front, which seems to be Elizabethan) is entirely Perjj., and belongs to the time when, after the establishment of the college here, Maidstone became one of the most favoiu-ite among the 1(5 arcliiepis- copal i^alaces. The jialace was granted by Q. Elizabeth to Sir John Astley, passed fi-om him to Sir Jacob Astley, Charles I.'s Baron of Reading (wliose nionimient exists in the ch.), and was finally alieiuited by this fumily to the first Lord Roniney, whose descendant still possesses it. Of higher interest than the palace itself is a long range of outbuilding on tlie opposite side of the road, which seems to have orighially formed part of the offices. It is now usetl for stables and tan-stores ; but the exterior has been little changed. Note the external stair of stone, usual in the court buildings attached to houses of this period (late Dec.). The doors are slightly pointed. The windows between the buttresses on the W. side are slightly pointed in the lower range, and square-headed above. The whole building deserves notice, and is pro- bably of earlier date than any por- tion of the palace itself. A small ancient building at the end of Mill Street, immediately at the gate turn- ing down to the palace, is yet more remarkalile, and is, perhaps, of the 14th cent. Its history is altogether unknown. The tomist should descend from the W. end of the churchyard to the river-ljank below, where he will obtain good views of the hospital, the church, and the palace, together foi-ming a very picturesque grouj). Fiuther down is the ancient bridge across the Medwaj', an archiepiscopal contribution to the town ; and be- yond the river stretcli away tJie Park E 3 82 Route 5. — Maidstone — The Mote. Sect. I. Meadows, so called fi-om a park or " pleasauiice " which anciently ex- tciidcd here in fi-out of the palace and hospital. The chief interest of Maidstone is concentrated at tliis corner, al- though some other points should not be left unnoticed. In St. Faith's- sti'eet are the remains, now dese- crated, of the chapel of St. Faith, which has some pretension to he considered the earliest ch. in Maid- stone. The quarter of the town in which it stands is certainly the oldest, and Roman relics in gi-eat numbers have been discovered here. (Many specimens are preserved in the "Charles Museum." See post.) The buildmg, howevei-, which was long appropriated to the use of the Walloon exiles who settled at Maid- stone early in Elizabeth's reign, con- tains nothing to mark its date with certainty. The chapel of Newark Hospital, founded by Abp. Boniface, at the S.W. entrance of the town, has, after long desecration, been con- verted into the district ch. of St. Peter, but with gi-eat alterations. The modern ch. of the Holy Tri- nity dates from 1819. A new ch. (St. Philip's) has just been erected at the E. end of the town. Of ancient liouses in the town, re- mark especially one with very rich carved and pargeted front, rt. in entering the High-street from the .station. It is perhaps temp. Jas. I. In St. Faith's-street is Chillington House, more ancient and interesting. The manor, of which it was tlie "" aula " or court-house, belonged to the Cobhams until the reign of Edward III., when it passed to the Maplesdens, whose representative forfeited it by joining Su" Thomas Wyatt's rising. It has since gone through many hands; and now, in somewhat shattered condition, serves as the Puldic Museum. The house itsc^lf belongs to the early i>art of the IGth century, and is worth a visit. The musemn contains some tolerable specimens of the birds and fossils of the neighbom-hood, and an interest- ing collection of local Eoman anti- quities, all presented to the to^vn by the late Thomas Charles, Esq. On the Rochester road is the County Gaol, capable of holding 450 prisoners, built in 1818, at a cost of 180,00UL The front contains the assize courts. The Cavalry Burraclis, with accommodation for about 400 men, are below on the river side. Here too are the Maidstone paper- mills, now Balston's factory, and, as well as the Tui-key-mill, a little outside the town on the Asliford road, formerly known as Whatman's. Drawing-ijapers of the best qualitj- are manufactured here ; and botli mills, tiie operations of which are simple and easily comprehended, employ a large nmnber of liands. A general view of IMaidstoue is not easily gained, owing to the very gradual rise of the hills on either side of the valley. The ch. and gi'oup of old buildings about it are well seen from the College hop-ground, through which a path leads to Tovil, a hamk t on the rt. bank of the river. The sunset effect from this point is very striking, and worth seeking bj- the artist. In Tovil is a good modern E. E. ch. dedicated to St. Stephen (architect.WTiichcord, of Maidstone). Adjoining are large oil-cake and paper mills. About 1 m. E. of the town is Tlte Mote (Earl of Romney), built toward the end of the last century, and not too ornamental. The name is said to indicate an ancient gathering- jilace (A.-S. mot), and to have nu reference to the ancient moat which once surrounded the house. The paric, of 600 acres, is fine, and contains some grand old oaks and beeches. A canal, crossed by a bridge, runs in front of the house. Before the reign of Henry III. the Leybornes wire settled here. Early in that of Richard II. the Mote had passed lo the Wydevilles or Woodvilles, after- Kext. Route 5. — Allington. 83 wards Lords Rivers, Richard de Wydeville beiug created by Henry Vi. Lord Rivers, Grafton, and De la Mote. His daughter Elizabetli became the Queen of Edward IV. After some changes, the Mote passed to the Wyatts of Allington, the Caesars, and the Tuftons, from whom, about 1 G90, it came to the Marshams, then of Whorne's Place, in the parish of Cuxtou. In 1716 Sir Robert Marsham was created Lord Romney ; and his descendants have continued to reside at the Mote. The house was rebuilt by the third Lord Rom- uey about 1795. A " pavilion " erected near the site of the old house marks the spot on which a dinner was given by the third Lord Romney, in the presence of George III., to the Kentish yeomanry. The guests at this dinner (one of the largest on record) exceeded 3000. Nearly opposite the Mote is Vit- ners Park (James Whatman, Esq.). Quarries of the hard limestone known as " Kentish rag " (see post, Bougldon Monchelsea) are largely worked near the town. In one of these, now known as the " Iguanodon Quarry," the first important Igua- nodon skeleton was discovered by IMr. Bensted, the proprietor. Frag- ments had already been foimd l)y Dr. Mantell in Tilgate Forest ; but the Maidstone specimen first enabled pala3ontologists to ascertain the size of the monster with accuracy. Masses of water-worn wood, cones of a species of abies (Abies Ben- stedi), and leaves of a plant resem- bling a yucca (Dracaena Bunstedi), have also been found in this quaiTy, to which access is readily afforded by the proprietor. The Excursions, for making which Maidstone will be found the best centre, are numerous and full of in- terest. The chief points in the immediate neigliboiu'hood may be visited in a long walk — to Alling(u)i Castle, 1^ m. ; thence to Boxley Abbey and Boxleij, 2\ m. ; returning to the town across Fenneaden Heath. The round will be about 7j m. A broad towhig-path leads along the rt. bank of the river, here essen- tially the "Medway smooth" of Milton. Low, steep banks of wood rise on the opjjosite side, and again very picturesquely on the rt. bank, fronting Allington, where the river cm-ves rornid the castle meadows. The scene here is striking : the red and ochred sails of the barges, con- stantly passing, "solemn as Barons of the Exchequer" (IFciZjJoZe), con- trast finely with the bright coloiu- of the hanging wood. The castle is on the 1. bank; but immediately oiiposite is a good country Inn (the Gibraltar), where a ferry-boat is always ready. Allington, a settlement of the Saxon ^lingas (Kenible: the name occurs in many other counties), was granted by the Conqueror to William de Warrene, who is said to have built a castle here. It then passed, through a family of the same n|ime (Allington), to Sir Stephen de Pen- chester, the rebuilder of some part of Pensluu'st, who, toward the end of Henry III.'s reign, obtained licence to fortify and embattle his castle here. From him, through the Cob- hams and Brents, it came, early in the reign of Henry VII., to Sir Hemy Wyatt, whom a vague tradi- tion asserts to have been preserved by a cat whilst a prisoner in the Tower, under Richard III. The cat, it is said, used to bring him a ijigeon every day from a neigldjouring dove- cot. " Sir Henry, in his prosperity," accoi'ding to a cmious notice of him quoted by IMr. Bell from a MS. for- merly belonging to the Wyatts, " for this would ever make much of cats, as other men will of spaniels or hounds ; and perhaps you shall not find his pictiu-e anywhere but, like Sir Christopher Hatton with his dog, with a cat beside him." (A cat, also said to have been his companion in the Tower, is re- 84 Eoute 5. — AUimjton — The Wyatts. Sect, I. presented in the portrait of the Earl of Soutliamptou, 8hakspeare's patron, now at Welbcck.) Lady Wyatt, wife of Sir Henry, seems to liave been a heroine of unusnal de- termination. " Keports reaching her, dm-ing Sir Heniy's alxsence, that tlie neighbonring abbot of Boxley was in the liabit of privately visiting her establijshment for purposes not very credit;djle to his sanctity, she placed some of her retainers on the watch ; and having obtained satisfactory proof of his delinquencies, she or- dered him to be seized, carried through the gatehouse, and put into the stocks in front of tlie castle. This indignity, inllicted on a priest, was not to be quietly endmed at a time when the spiritual licence was supposed to cover all scandals ; and the abbot accordingly appealed for redress to the Privy Council. Sir Henry's answer to the charge shows of what metal the Wyatts were formed. He tmuied the whole affair into a jest, and frankly told the Council that, if any of their lord- ships had angered his wife in her own house, as the abbot had done, he verily believed she would have served them in the same manner." Of these parents was born here, in 1503, Sir Thomas Wyatt, the poet, the "delight of the muses and of mankind," who, says Fuller, truly answered his anagram, " Wiat, o ivit.'' During his early youth "he brought up a lion's whelp and an Irish grey- hound at the castle, and made play- mates of them, so that they used to wait at the gate or hall door for his coming home, and testify their de- light at his return ))y the most vio- lent demonstrations. At last, as the lion's whelp gTew into corn-age and heat, these testimonies of attach- ment became rather dangerous ; and on one occasion he ran roaring at his yotmg master, and, flying fiercely into his l)osom, must have inevitably destroyed liimbut for the greyhound, who, leaping on his back, pidled liim down, when Wyatt coolly drew out his rapier and slew the whelp on the spot. This story being afterwards repeated to Henry VIII., he ob- served, ' Oh, he can tame lions ! ' " Notwithstanding the hints of an attachment to Anne Boleyn, Sir Thomas became one of Henry VIII. 's especial favoivrites, and made a " fair seat " of the castle here, where he spent liis time dui-ing his occasional retirements from public affair's. A satire, addressed to his friend John Poins, gives us a pleasant picture of his life at AUingiou : — " This maketli me at home to hmit ami hawk ; And ill foul weather at my book to sit ; In frost and snow then with my bow to stalk; iso man doth mark whereso I ride or go. In lusty leas at liberty I walk; And of these news 1 feel nor weal nor woe. I am not now in France to judge the wine ; But I am here in Kent and Christendom Among the Muses, where I read and rhyme ; AVhere if thou list, mine own John Poins, to come, Thou shalt be judge how I do spend my time." For the true position of Wyatt as a reformer of English i)oetry, see Mr. Bell's excellent Life (prefixed to his annotated edition of the poems). Wyatt has the credit of having made the first metrical version in English of some ])art of the Psalms (about loil). His portrait has been most effectively drawn by his friend and fellow poet Sm-rey : " Earely have so many noble qualities been collected into a single character — virtue, wis- dom, beauty, strength, and corn-age." It was tlie poet's son who raised the Kentish rel)ellion in the first year of Queen Mary (1554), and who, after the march to London and the deser- tion of his followers, was made pri- soner and beheaded on Tower Hill. His manors were confiscated, and AUington was afterwards granted by Elizabeth to Sir Jolni Astley, in wliose family it continued until it Kent. Route .5. — Ailing ton Castle. — Boxley Abbey. So passed to tlie first Lord Eomney in 1720. The present Earl is now the proprietor. Tlie paUxce at Maidstone was .i;;ranted about the same time to Sir John Astley, who resided there, and allowed AUington Castle to fall to ruin, having clisparked the surround- ing enclosm-es. The existing re- mains are considerable, and well deserve a visit. A broad moat, fed from the IMedway, nearly encircles the castle, which stands on unusu- ally low ground, although command- ing the river passage at an imijortant point. The walls form a long parallelogram, with circular towers projecting at intervals. Within, the castle is divided into two distinct courts, of wliich that to the N. is perhaps the most recent. In this is the main entrance gateway, flanked by two small circular towers, and still retaining the portcullis-groove. Above the gate was an apartment of some importance, as usual in late Perp. castles (comp. Hever). Ke- mark, in entering, the square window- hatch, opening into the guardroom W. of the gateway. In this court, on the side fronting the Medway, seem to have been the hall and cliapel. A range of low building, with a good arched entrance, sej^ar- ates this from tiie inner court. The greater part of the first com-t may have been the work of the two Wyatts. In the S.W. angle of the second, or inner court, is a lofty cir- cular tower, apparently of older date, and serving as the castle-keep. This court is usually the first entered in approaching trom the river, a door having been pierced through one of the flankiiig-towcrs, which opens into a vatst chimney, perhaps that of the ancient kitchen. On the Med- way side is the farm-house, built out of fragments of the castle, and piotm-esque with its peaked roofs and wide porches. Ivy and elder- trees hanging about the walls and towers, contribute to the satisfaction of the sketcher,who will find his best points of view on the N. and N.W. sides. The irregular mounds be- tween the castle and the river per- haps belong to the "fau- gardens" created here by Wyatt the poet, and may be remains of artificial hillocks, with winding-paths, such as were then fashionable. AUington Church, close beyond the castle, is a small Dec. building, of some interest, but without monu- ments. Six Thomas Wyatt, the poet, was lurried at Sherborne, Dorset, where he died on his way into Corn- wall. Eecrossingthe river, the Rochester road may either be followed through the hanilet of Sundling (rt. is Sand- ling Place, Com*tenay Stacey, Esq.), or the tom'ist may find his way along the bank of a stream which fails into the Medway a sliort distance below AUington Castle, which will lead him to the entrance of Boxley Abbey (Rev. E. Balston), beyond Sandling. The site of the abbey, as in most Cistercian foundations, is low and flat, about 1 m. from tlie river ; the chalk hills rise at some distance be- hind it. It was founded, in 1146, by William of Ypres, Earl of Kent, who closed his own life as a moidi at Laon. A colony of Cistercians was brought here from Clairvaux, of wliich great house Boxley claimed accordingly to be "filia propria." Richard I. granted the manor of Boxley to the abbey, the revenue of which, at the dissolution, was 218/., arising from lands scattered over Kent and Surrey. Much of its ancient rental, however, seems to have been sacrificed for large siuns of money paid in hand. " There hath grown no decay by tliis a])bot," wrote Henry VlII.'s com- missioner, " that we can learn ; but surely his predecessors pleasured nnich in odoriferous savours, as it sliould seem by their converting the rents of the monastery that were wont to be paid in corn and ;,illyflowers and roses."" 8G Route 5. — Boxley Ahhey. Sect. I. No important historical events are connected with Boxk^y; but tlie abbey church rejoiced iu two re- markable "sotelties," which pro- cured for the Wliite MoidiS here no small celebrity and very satisfactory profits. The iu'st — like the boar's head and enchanted mantle brought by the elfin page to the court of King Arthur, of which only Sir Cra- dock and Sh Cradock's wife could stand the test — was a touchstone of chastity, in the sliape of a small image of St. Eumbald, only to be lifted by those who had never sinned in thought or in deed. " Such who paid the priest well," says plain- spoken old Fuller, " might easily re- move it, whilst others might tug at it to no purpose." It was fastened by a wooden pin moved from be- liiud, and " many chaste virgins and wives went away with blushing faces, whilst others came otf with more credit, because with more coin — though with less chastity." St. Rumbald of Boxley is not to be confounded witli liis namesake, the patron saint of Meclilin. His life lasted but three days, dming wliich he discoursed largely "of all the coiumonplaces of popery," says Fuller ; having announced himself a Christian at the moment of his birth, wliich took place among a tribe of heathen Saxons. The date and place at which tliis least of the saints ap- peared in the world are not fixed by the legend, although Buckingham- shire claims liim as one of her worthies. He was much reverenced througliout Kent, especially here and on the S. coast. The second wonder of Boxley was the famous " Rood of Grace," a mi- raculous crucifix, to which crowds of liilgrims resorted fi-om every part of the country. It was rudely disturbed by Henry VIII. 's commissioners, who found therein "certayn ingynes of olde wvi^'r, wyth olde roton stykkes in the backe of the same, that did cause the eies to move and stere in the hede thereof lyke luito a lyvelye thinge ; and also the nether lippe in lyke wise to move as though it shulde speke." The image was carried into Maidstone on a market-day, and " iu tlie cheff of the market-time " exhi- bited to the people, who "had the false, crafty, and sotell haiidelynge thereof in wonderous detestacion and hatred." It was then carried to Lon- don, and " solemnly broken to pieces " at Paul's Cross (1538). Of the chm'ch in which the in- genious Cistercians conducted these " sotell " exhibitions, nothing now remains but the foundations, wliich are to be traced in the garden of the modern Boxley Abbey. Other ruins have all but entirely disappeared, and there is now little but the recollec- tions connected with the site to attract the visitor. The village of Boxley (in Domes- day Boseleu, so called from the quantity of box-trees that here gTOW in tufts in the woods, and along the sides of the chalk hills) lies about l.J m. from the abbey, and on much higher ground. The cli. is Dec, but of no great interest. A remarkable porch or ante-chapel is, however, attached to it, which is unconse- crated, and deserves notice. It per- haps served as the parish-scliool. Until the end of Eichard II. 's reign Boxley church belonged to the priory of Rochester. It then passed to Boxley Abbey, but was restored to the chapter of Rochester after the dissolution. In the neighbourhood are, Boxley House (Hon. Mrs. Handley) ; Park (Mrs. Best); and i?roc/i?i/rt "(Edward Burton, Esq.). [The church of Detling (1 m. from Boxley) lies close under the hills, and, although itself poor, contains a veiy fine Dec. lectern, which well deserves attention. In the chm'ch- yard is a large and well-designed stone cross, also perhaps Dec. The parish was long the propeiiy of a family of the same name.] Kent. Route 5. — Pennenden Heath. — MalUnj. 87 Pennenden Heath, across Avhieli the pedestrian may return from Boxley to Maidstone, is still, as at the time of the Conquest, and long before, the great county gathering-place — the scene of the Saxon " sliyregemot " and "wapentakes" and now of all important county meetings. It is worth notice that the F'uinedenna (Pennenden) of Domesday has now become generally corrupted to Fich- enden. Lambarde's derivation of the word from the Saxon pinian, to punish, seems hardly borne out, al- though it is still the place of exe- cution, and the gallows remained standing on a i^aii of the heath above Maidstone until very recently. (Comp. Kemble's remarks. Sax. in Eng., i. 47, on the position of the Sax. " cwealmstow," or place of exe- cution, in the mark, or forest boun- dary, of the primitive settlement.) The various Kentish "dens" were all in this mark. (See Ete. 7 — Tenterden.) The views from the heath, in spite of its high groimd, are not extensive. Its position, nearly in the centre of the county, probably led to its selection as the gatheriug-place for the Saxons of Kent. If, as is very possible, it was used for the same purpose by the Kentish Belg£e,its vicinity to the great cemetery on Boxley and Aylesford hills may not have been accidental. The most famous meeting on Pen- nenden Heath, and one that well deserves illustration at the hands of an historical painter, occm-red in 107G, when Abp. Laufranc pleaded the cause of his church here against Odo de Bayeux, Earl of Kent, who retained in his hands numerous manors belonging to the see of Can- terbury. Geotfrcy, Bp. of Coutances, sat as tlie king's representative; Lanfrauc and Odo wer(?ljotli present in person, as were many others of the Kentish nobles ; but the most strildng figure was that of Agelric, Bp. of Chester, of great renown for his knowledge of old Saxon law, who. on account of his great age, was brought here in a " quadriga " or waggon drawn by oxen. The trial lasted three days, and the archbishop recovered the greater part of his manors. The County Hall, a small building of some antiquity, still remains on the heath. A tolerable view of jMaidstone is gained in descending the hill toward the town. Mailing Ahheij and the British re- mains at Addington (8 m.) may be visited in a second exciu'sion, which may be made to embrace som(j other 2)laces of interest. This will be a long day's work, however, and be- yond a walk. The tourist, first keeping thi'ough the lanes S. of the Sevenoaks road, may visit the two Mailings omA Off hum; thence, cross- ing the main road, he should take the points of interest lying N. — Ad- dington, liijarsh, and Leyhorne. A pleasant road, under the woods of Mailing, with glimpses of the Medway rt., and of the chalk-hills beyond it, will bring us to Ditton (3 m.), a small Dec. eh., with some re- mains of good stained glass. The Church oi East Mailing (1 m. S.) is of higher interest. It has portions from E. E. to late Perp. Much colomx'd glass remains, esijccially in a Dec. chapel at E. end of N. aisle, the ceiling of which should be re- marked ; the bosses at the intersec- tions retain their gUcHng. The lower part of the tower is E. E., the upper Perp. Brasses : Thos. Selby and Isodia his wife, 1479 ; K. Adams, vicar, 1522. The ch. was given by Ab]). Anselm to the nunnery of W. Mailing. Bradbourne Park (Capt. Twisden), adjoining the ch., has been, for the last two centmies, in the hands of the Twisdens. A younger brother of the learned Sir Roger of East Peckhara first settled here, and was himself creatcila baronet by Charles 1 1 . The Twisden family is one of the 88 Route 5. — St. Leonards. — Offliam. Sect. I laost aiicieut of Kent. The park was pleasant and well wootled, but was converted into hop-gardens and arable lields diu'ing a temporary alienation from the Twisdeus, to whom it has now retm-ned. On the stream that runs tlu'ough it are some paper-mills, the staple manufacture of this district. In the neighbourliood is Clare House (J. A. Wigan, Esq.). From E. Mailing, through lanes N. of the main road, West, or Town Malliny, is reached. Both Mailings indicate the site of a primitive 8ason mark — that of the Mallingas. {Keinhle.) A Benedictine nunnery was founded here in 1090 by Bp. Gun- dulf of Rochester, which was greatly eiuiched by subsequent benefactions. Ten pounds of wax and one wild boar from the oak woods that siu-- roinided the convent were annually sent by the abbess to the Bp. of Rochester, as an acknowledgment of her subjection to the see. At the dissolution Mailing Abbey was granted to Abp. Cranmer, and sub- sequently became the ijroi)erty of the Honeywoods. It is now the resi- dence of the Akers family. The remains of Mailing Abbey are full of interest and well deserve a visit. They contain portions from Norm, to late Perp. The principal Norm, fragment is the W. front of the abbey ch., of which the slender turrets and ornamented pilasters so gi'eatly resemble the W. front of Rochester Cathedi-al as to leave little doubt tliat both are the work of the same designer. The cloisters, now in- cluded in the modern residence, are late E.E., with broad trefoiled arches, very good and interesting. The front- ing of the great gateway, which is entire, is Perp., " but examination will show this work to be oidy a facing." — Ilussey. To this gatehouse a chapel was attached, which lias been recently restored. It has Dec. windows, l)ut the S. door is Perp. At St. Ltonards, a short distance S. of the abbey, was a cell with a chapel, the site of which is uncer- tain. A large, square towei', of con- siderable interest, still remains here, which has been pronounced a Nor- man keep (Hussey). On this, how- ever, the archajologist may sjjecidatc for himself. A fragment of wall has been traced, running E., below the tower. The manor, at the time of the Domesday sm-vey, was in the hands of the bishops of Rochester, by whom the stronghold must have been erected. ^The Church of W. Mailing has a Norman tower, without a staircase. The chancel is E. E. The nave was rebuilt toward the end of the last centuiy. Brasses : Will. Millys, U'Jl ; Will. Skott, 1532; and some others of less interest. Skirting the woods that stretch upward from behind Mereworth, we reach (1 m. from Mailing) Offham, where is a small Norm, and E. E. church, worth looking at. In the chancel windows, E. E., are some fragments of stained glass. On the exterior wall of the chancel remark a wide, shallow buttress, apparently Norm., in which, it has been sug- gested, the rootUoft stairs were carried. A similar buttress, with what seems a window-frame, now clo.sed, exists in Hever Church, and in the same position. Offliam Green long boasted of a venerable relic in the shape of a quintain, both parts of which — the uiiright post and the cross-piece, to which tlie bag of sand was attached — remained luitil very recently. The estate on which it stands was, it is said, bound to keep it in repair ; but only the upright post is now to be seen. Quintains of this form are scarcely earlier than the reign of Elizabeth, the more ancient having been in the shape of a giant or " Saracen," with a broad wooden sword, which struck the luiskilfid tilter as the figm'c turned on its pivot. {Mrijrieh.) Kent. Route 5. — Addington. 89 The road leading; from Westerliam and Seveuoaks to Maidstone, crossed in passing from Oftliani to Adding- ton (2 m.), is, perhaps, one of great antiquity — in all probability Koman, if it represents the " military way " mentioned in the charter (a. 945) of Edmund of Wessex, granting W. Mailing to the Bp. of Kochester. It is possible, however, that this ancient road ran somewhat more to the S. The Clmrclt of Addington is Perp., but not veiy interesting. The barge- board of the N. porch is worth notice. Some Brasses remain ; one very good (William Snaith and wife, 1409); and some fragments of incised slabs, with Lombardic capitals, temp. Edw. II., for the Leschekers (de Scac- cario), lords of tlie manor. The in- scription on the wall — " In fourteen hundred and none Here was neither stick nor stone ; In fourteen hundred and tliree Tlie goodlj' building which you see "^ noticed here by Hasted, has now disappeared. This rhyme, it may be observed, is claimed by other churches, in Sm-rey and elsewhere. The position of the eh., on a wooded hillock, is very pictiu'esque. The hillock itself, a remarkable cone of earth, is one of several which exist in the S. part of this parish. If these "veritable pyramids" are artificial, as has been suggested by ]VIr. Wright {Wanderings of an Antiquary), the)' are sepidchral mounds, and i:)Ossibly contain great stone cromlechs, resembling that of Kit's Coity House. This is rendered more probable by the existence, in the immediate neighbom-hood, of considerable remains of the kind u.sually called Druidical, and of many sepulchral pits in the chalk-hills, as well as by a tradition connecting this place with tlie hills above Ayles- ford, to which a continuous line of stones is said to have extended, some of which arc still to be traced. The cluster of these remains about Addington perhaps indicates a great tribal cemetery, like that al Ayles- ford. In Addington Park (J. Wing- field Stratford, Esq.) are two stone circles, within the smaller of which are pieces of hirge cap-stones, pos- sibly the covering slabs of cromlechs. " It should be remarked that the ground within the smaller circle ap- pears raised, as though it were the remains of a moimd, which, per- haps, was never comi)leted." — Wright. An irregidar mass of large stones near the circles perhaps covers a subterranean chamber. At no great distance from Addington Park, at the foot of a hill near Culdrmn Farm, is another smaller circle, with a cromlech, perfect all but the cap- stone. Within tliis, numerous frag- ments of urns, &c., of various periods, but chiefly Brito-Koman, were found in 185G. Just above, at the top of Eyarsh chalk-hill, are two large stones lying flat on the ground ; and near them is the entrance to what is apparently a sepulchral chamber, cut in the chalk. The entrance is by a well, about 20 ft. deep and 10 in diameter. A doorway at the bottom leads into the chamber. (Comp. the pits filled with flints on Aylesford Common, a;i<e.) In Poimd- gate, or ^liite Horse Wood, running along the top of the hill behind, are numerous masses of stones, resem- bling those of the circles, and the two lying near the mouth of the pit. Single stones of great magnitude are scattered over the holds, and may be traced for some distance toward the Medway. The tradition of this great stone avenue may be compared with the famous parallel rows of stone at Caruac, in Britanny, with some miniature remains, of precisely sinular character, still existing on Dartmoor, and with the few relics of Avebm-y, in Wilts. The distance from the Coldrum circles to Kit's Coity House is nearly 6 m., and the two cemeteries, thus imited by a long stone avenue, seem to have formed the grand necropolis of the 90 Route 5. — BirUng. — Leyhorne. Sect. I. Belgian settlers in this part of the island. " The whole district is tlms interesting as one of our hallowed sites ; while the footsteps of the wanderer are di'awn to it by its rich scenery, diversified with pastures, cornfields, and liop-grounds, plenti- fuUj' intermingled with woods and copses." — Wright. Tlie first careful investigator of these remains was the Rev. L. B. Larking of Ryarsh. Mr. Wright has followed, with an excellent description ; but much remains to be done. Tlie great earthen pyramids at Addington seem, at all events, to hold out hopes of reward to the investigator. The stones of tlie circles and avenue are ferruginoiis sandrock, boulders of which, dming the ter- tiary period, were carried over the whole of the chalk district in this neighbomhood. Geologists and an- tiquaries, however, are agreed as to many of the stones in the so-called avenue having been artificially placed. Others are still in situ in the diluvial soil. In the parish of Addington is a " nailbourne " (see Introd. Kent), which breaks out at intervals of some years, and flows into the Leyborue rividet. Tile Church of Eyarsh (1 ra. from Addington) is Norm., with Perp. al- terations and additions. The E. end .shows traces of numerous small Nor- man windows, replaced by a single late Pei-p. There is also a Norm, piscina. [At BirUng, Ij m. N. of Ryarsh, and close under the range of chalk- hills that here sweeps round toward the Medway, forming what is called the valley of Maidstone, was the ancient residence of the Nevilles, Lords Bergavenny — BirUng Place — now a farm-house, but exliibiting many indications of its ancient state. The cluu-cli is Perp., and contains a very good window of stained glass, the recent gift of Lord Aber- gavenny, some of whose ancestors were interred here. Tliere are no monuments. The manor, with its enclosed park, passed througli the families of Maminot and Say to the Nevilles about 1435, when Sii- Ed- ward Neville, fourth son of the first Earl of Westmoreland, received the lands of Birling in right of his wife, together with the title of Lord Berga- venny. His descendant still pos- sesses it, but Birling Place has long been deserted, — first for Kidbrooke, and then for Castle Bridge, near Tunbridge Wells.] Passing The Grange (Sir Joseph Hawley), the Church of Leijhoriie, which deserves a visit, will be reached about 1 m. from Ryarsh. It is E. E., with Peip. additions ; and on the N. side of the N. aisle is a remarkable nicho of Dec. character. It is of considerable size, much or- namented, and has two trefoiled arches, divided by a shaft and filled with solid masonry about half-way up. In each of these arches is a small tabernacle, within one of wliieh was found, during a recent investigation, a heart, in a leaden box. The other had been prepared to re- ceive a similar deposit, wliich, how- ever, had never been placed tliere. The heart was, perhaps, tliat of Sir Thomas de Leyborne, who died temp. Edw. II. Close to the cli. stood the ancient Castle of Leyborne {LeJehurne of Domesday, from the "little bm-n" or stream that runs through the parish), held by a family of the same name from the reign of Ca3ur de Lion to that of Edward III.; when their an- cient race became extinct in the per- son of Juliana_ de licyl^orne, called the " Infanta of Kent," from the broad lands and manors she inherited in this county, and wliich she carried successively to her three Imsbands. She gave Leyborne to the king (Edward III.), for the endowment of religious houses ; and by him it was bestowed on the newly-founded Cis- tercian abbey of St. Mary Graces in Loudon, Since tlie dissolution it Kent. Route 5. — Bersted. — Thurnham. 91 has passed through various hands, and finally into those of the Hawleys of the Grange, who are now lords of the manor. The site of the Castle may still be traced, and a fine gate- way remains. From Leyborue the tom-ist may retiu-n to Maidstone, 5^ m., by the Sevenoaks road ; passing through the hamlet of Larkfield, which gives name to the hundred. A third excursion will be to Leeds Castle, 5 m.,from whence the tourist, instead of retm-mug to Maidstone, may proceed to ClMring, where roads dividing i-t. and 1. will take him either to Chilham and Canterbm-y, or to Ashford. The whole of this country is very pictiu"esque, much broken into hill and valley, and well wooded. The road for the most part follows the line of what are called " The Quarry Hills " — the .sandstone underlying the chalk. The Weald of Kent stretches away S., and wide views across it are oc- casionally commanded. Although Eoman remains have been discovered at difl'erent points along this road, it seems imcertain whether any line of way was con- stiTicted by that people through the centre of Kent. But the present road is certainly of great antiquity ; and a little to the N. of it, keeping more to the hills, ran the ancient " Pilgrims' Way," stretchmg from Sm-rey into Kent, and probably of British origin. The chief places of interest on the road now to be followed are Leeds, Leiihani, and Charing. Churches of some importance, however, lie either on the road, or at a short dis- tance from it. Skuiiiig the park of the Mote, rt., we gradually ascend the hills above the valley of Maidstone. Bersted, 2 m. 1., is said to be the cradle of tlie Bertie family, who possessed lauds liere before the reign of Henry II. At the angles of the Perp. church-tower are placed three rude figures, called, though questionably, " bears seiant," and said to refer to the name of the parish. Beyond the village is Milgate, long the seat of the Cayes, and now the property of their co-heiresses. At Ware Street, in this parish, is a large tumulus, as yet unexplored. [At Thurnham, 1 m. N., is an in- ditYerent Dec. Church with a good E. window. On the top of the chalk hill above the village, and command- ing a pass tlirough the valley below, which leads to Sittingbourne, are the riiins of Goddard's or Thurnham Castle, the history of which is alto- gether unknown. The walls, built of rough flint, are on 'the N. side about 13 ft. high and 3 ft. in thick- ness. On the other sides the found- ations alone remain traceable. E. of the area enclosed, about J of an acre, is an artificial mount. Roman urns and other remains have been found about this liill ; but no branch road has been traced to the Watling Street tlirough the valley below, though one may very probably have existed. Darell asserts (what was no doubt the local tradition) that the castle was built by a Saxon named Godard. It was a complete ruin in Leland's time.] The chiu-ch of Otham, across the stream of the Len, rt., has some Nor- man portions. Remark a door in- serted in the N. wall, \vith a hood moulding carried quite to the ground on either side. The Len here sup- plies i^aper-mills as usual ; and the wide, open comitry S. is famous for its growth of fruit and hops. We now speedily come in sight of Leeds Castle (5 m. from Maidstone), the main object of our pilgrimage. In spite of Walpole's disappoint- ment, who visited Leeds in 1752, and pronounced the picture of the Duchess of Buckingham " the only reconq:)ence for all the fatigues ho liad undergone," the archaeologist will find no lack of occupation and 92 Route 5. — Leeds Castle. Sect. I. interest here, althinip;!! the Duclicss's liietiire is no longer to he seen. Leeds (Domesday, Esledes — a word which has certainly nothing to do with the apoehryphal I>edian, King Ethelhert's " chief counsellor," who, according to Kilburne, gave name to the place ; it may perhaps be the Sax. slade, an opening in the woods) was early granted "by tlie Conqueror to tlie family of Creve- cceur (Rivenheart) of Chatham, who possessed it till late in the reign of Henry III., when it passed by exchange to the Leybornes. William de Leyborne resigned it to Edward I., who had remarked the import- ance of its position. Bartholomew de Badlesmere, called " the rich Lord Badlesmere of Leeds," was castellan here under Edward II., and, joining the Earl of I^ancaster, lield out tlie castle against the queeii, who had attempted to gain posses- sion of it by a pretended pilgrimage to Canterbuiy. The " rich lord " was afterwards hung at Canterbury. The castle, which remained in pos- session of the crown, after occasional temporary grants, was at lengtli be- stowed by Edward VI. on Sir An- thony St. Leger. From his de- scendants it passed through dift'erent hands to the Colepepers, in 1G32; and, by marriage, to the Yorksliire Fairfaxes. The present possessor, Cliarles Wykeham Martin, Esq., re- presents this family. Leeds was the great central stronghold of Kent, and commanded the veiy important line of road that passed eastward to Canterburj' and the sea, keeping the high ground above the deep clays of the "Weald. Partly owing to this position it has witnessed some rt'inarkable events, and has received some remarkable visitors. Abp. Arundel had a grant of it for his life, and many of his instriuuents are dated from here during the j^roccss against Lord Cobham. Abp. Chieheley sat here during some part of the trial of the Duchess Eleanor of Gloucester for sorcery. Leeds was visited fre- quently by Richard II., and was one of the prisons in which that unhappy prince was confined. Henry IV. was himself here in the 2nd year of his reign ; and, as if in retaliation for the suiferings of Ricliard, Joan of Navarre, the second queen of Henry IV., was imprisoned here by Henry V., under a charge of con- spiracy against his life. She was afterwards removed to Pevensey. The castle stands in the centre of a wide park, finely wooded, and en- circled by low green bills. Its crown of towers and turrets rises from the midst of a broad sheet of water, forming a moat ; " the only hand- some object," says Walpole. " It is quite a lake, supplied by a cascade Avhicli tumbk^s through a Int of ro- mantic grove." This is, in fact, a reach of the Len rivulet, wliieh winds through the domain ; and sluices from this moat enabled the owner of the castle to inundate at will a con- siderable part of the surrounding country. The main fortress dates from the lltli cent. ; and altliough it o1)tained little favour in the eyes of Stniwberry Hill, is of very high value as a specimen of the military architecture of that century. Much of the present building is modern. " The Fairftixes had fitted up a pert, bad apartment in the fore part of the castle They had a gleam of Gothic in their eyes, but it soon passed off into some modern win- dows, and some that never were ancient." — Wdliiole. The original plan of the fortifications can, how- ever, be distinctly made out. The moat, or lake, surrounds three small islands. " On the first are the re- mains of the barbican, and adjoining the castle mill. On the second is the gatehouse ; the outer bailey, surrounded liy a wall of (. nceinte ; and at the further end, one wing of the castle. On the third, the ijrin- cipal mass of the castle, and a small Kent. Route 5. — Leeds. 93 inner court. The walls rise straight from the water ; and there is a cu- rious original boat-house under part of the castle. Each island was con- nected with the other by a draw- bridge only, so that each could be defended separately." — C. W. Mar- tin, in Parker's Domestic Architecture, vol. ii. The biuldiugs are of more than one period, but a great part are of the 14th cent., and are no doubt the work of AVilliani of Wykeham, who, in 1B59, was appointed " chief warder and survc yor " of the king-'s castle of Leeds, which had fallen into a comjjletely ruinous state after the death of the " rich lord Badles- mere." The windows of the chapel are perhaps of earlier date. They are tilled with geometrical tracery, whicli is said to have been restored after tlie windows iKvd been blown in by a hurricane in ISl-i. (Gump, the tracery in the hall windows of Penshiu'st, and Mayfield, Sussex, and in those of Charthanr church ; it is of the same character and period as this, and is sufficiently peculiar to have received the name of the "Kentish tracery.") Much of the building on the third island dates from the reign of Henry VIII., and was erected by Su- Henry Guildford, then constable of Leeds. The in- ternal arrangements of the castle have been greatly altered, and the family portraits and Faii'fax papers, many of which were of great interest, have been dispersed. Such a castle as that of Leeds was not complete without an adjoin- ing religiims establishment; and, accordingly, about 5 m. distant, is the site of Leeds Friary, founded in 1119 by Robert dc; Crevecoeur for August inian canons. After the dis- solution it was granted to the St. Legers, from whom it passed through a long succession of Coverts and Merediths. The principal mass of buildings was converted into a dwelling-house by William Covert in 1598, as appears by a date and initials still remaining above a portal here. The church, of which no trace exists, was of unusual size and beauty, and contained a famous shrine of the Vii-gin. In it were interred many of the Crevecceurs. The situ- ation of the priory, on a gentle rising ground, backed by wood, and over- looking a stream falling into the Leu, was very pleasant ; and the scene is now almost the single at- traction remaining for the tourist. On the stream is a very ancient mill, once belonging to the Augustinians. In the liamlet of Nash, 4 oi- W. of Leeds Castle, is a house called Battle Hall, which should not be left vmvisited. The hall and one wing are of the 14th century ; but considerable alterations seem to have l)een made tem]^. Hen. VIII. In the hall, and close to the screen, is a very beautiful stone lavatory and cistern, the forms of which are un- usual. There are but slight traces of fortification at this place, the earl)- history of which is unknown. Temp. Hen. VIII. it belonged to Robert Chambre ; and it afterwards became part of the Leeds Castle property. The village of Leeds is pictm- esqucly scattered over a series of abrupt eminences. In it is a small house, now a farm, which perhaps dates from early in the 1.5th centin-y. The lower part is of stone, witli windows of Perp. character ; the upper i^art of wood, with oi^eu pa- nellings of good design. Above is a battlemented wooden stringcourse. The roof is original and perfect. The Church of Leeds is remark- able for its low stunted tower. It has some fragments of stained glass, and a good screen of wood divitles the chancel from the nave. There are here some elaborate 17th cen- tury moniunents for the Merediths of the abbey and castle. [_Gh-eerimiy Court, now a farm- house, in the parish of Holling- bourne, under the chalk-hills N. of Leeds, was the residence of tlie 94 Moitte 5. — Harrietsliam. — Lenliam. Sect. I. Ciilpepers from tlie rei,t>;n of Eliza- beth, and was sold by them to tlie Fairfaxes. The ch. of Holling- boiu'ne is crowded with Culi^epiT monuments of the 17th and 18th centimes : the best, a recumbent effigy of a I-ady Cnlpcper, d. 1038. An altar-cloth, pulpit-hangings, and cushion, of purple velvet, embroi- dered in gold-thread with grapes and pomegranates, were the worlt of the daughters of Sir John Culpeiier, afterwards Lord Cnlpoijer, who are said to have thus employed tliem- selvcs dming the many years in which their father shared the exile of Charles II. Tlie chm-ches of Frinsted, Worm- sell, and Bicknor, 3 m. N., and lying nearly in a line from E. to "W., de- serve a careful examination from the very early character disj^layed in portions of them. " The most an- cient, and apparently the original, portion of Frinsfed ch. has circular, very short, and thick piers, with 2)lain capitals, except that two piers, in other respects like the rest, have a Norm, leaf, low and roughly carved, in their capitals. In Wormsell ch. the arches, which are pointed, ap- pear to be mere perforations of the wall ; the soffetes being single, the angles not chamfered, of the thick- ness of the wall, flat and plain from one side to the other. All these churches are small, particularly Bicknor ; which, however, comprises two side aisles, the two intervening arches being low, round, supported by heavy square piers, and perfectly plain, except some little Norm, orna- ment on the capitals, of which the outline resembles tliat of Steetly ch., Derbysldre, fig. in ' Gloss, of Archi- tcctiu-e.'' — nussey. Frinsted ch. has been lately restored. Wriiisted Court, in this parish, is the residence of E. Pemberton Leigh, Esq. : at Bicknor is Bicknor Place (T. White- head, Usq.). The drive from HoUingbourne to Frinsted, between steep, wood- covered hills, is veiy picturesque. At Milsted, a short distance N. of Frinsted, is a ch. with Trans. Norm, portions, and some relics of stained glass. Adioining is Milsted Manor (Sir John Maxwell Tylden). The ch. of Huekinge, 1 m. N. of Hollingi)ourne, has Norm, portions.] Proceeding E. from Leeds, and still sldrting the little stream of the Len, Harrietsliam (Heriard's- or Hariarde's-ham — Domes.) is reached, 7 m. from Maidstone. The large ch., which has latelj' been restored, has an E. E. chancel, the rest being chiefly Perjj. Kemark the font, of which the shape is unusual. On the high ground above the village is Stede Hall (W. Baldwin, Esq.), from which a noble view over the Weald is commanded. The Church of Lenliam, 8 m., is of more importance, and should not be left imvisited. The main chancel is E. E. with alterations, and retains its ancient oaken stalls. On the N. side, recessed in the wall, is the etfigy of a priest (temp. Edw. III. ?) lying on the rt. side in an unusual 130- sition. Eemark the piscina, a Perp. insertion, placed under a very mde arch. The main point of interest, however, is the stone chair, or sedile, on the S. side of the chancel, with solid arms, and a cinquefoil-headed canopy of much later date. 1. is a lower seat, much smaller, aiid with- out ornament. The well-known chair in Corhampton ch. is ruder and earlier ; but this of Ijenham is well worth attention. The rest of the ch. is Peip. There is a good oaken lectern, and a richly-carved pulijit of 17tli century work. The manor of Lcnham, to which the ch. was attached, was granted to St. Augustine's, Canterburj', in 804, by Cenulf king of Mercia, and Cucbx'd king of Kent. It continued in possession of the Abbey vnitil the dissolution. Tlie parish stretclies across the valley between the chalk and the sand-hills; but enjoys no Kent. Eoute 5. — Linton Place. — Bougldon. 95 very high reputation, agriciUtural or sanitary. " Ah, sir, poor Lenham ! "' is the traditional reply of its inhabit- ants to travellers inquiring the name of the village. Two important springs rise here. At Street Well, in the chalk, is one of the heads of the river 8tom-, ■which runs from hence to Ashford, where it is joined by the stream flowing from the hills above Lyiune. At Eivell, on the W. side of the parish, the Len (brook) rises from the sand-rock, and runs W. to join the Med way at Maidstone. S. of Lenham is Bougldon Mal- Jierhe, in which parish is Cliilstone Park (J. S. Douglas, Esq.). See Ete. 7. [2^ m. N.E. of Lenham, standing high among the chalk-hills, is Otter- den Place (Rev. C. Wheeler), jiartly of the time of Henry VIII. It com- mands wide views over the wooded country toward Faversham, with distant glimpses of the Channel. The ch. is a wonderful structure, built in 1753 on the site of an an- cient one dedicated to St. LaAvrence, from which some 17th century mo- numents of Lewins and Curteises (former possessors of Otterden) were removed, and are here preserved. For Doddington, see Ete. 4.] From Lenham, as before sug- gested, the route may be continued either tlu'ough Charing, 13 m. from Maidstone, to Ashford, 6 m.; or by Chilham to Caiderhury, about 15 m. For Charing and Chilham, see Ete. 8 ; for Ashford, Ete. 7. A short but very pleasant excur- sion may be made from Maidstone through the village of Loose to Linton, 4 m. The stream wliich runs through the little village of Loose, " sullen " like the Mole, flows underground for about 5 m. of its course, disap- pearing at Brishing, above the vil- lage. Loose itself, siu-rounded by hop-groimds, stands picturesquely on the hill-side ; but is exceeded hi interest by the village of Linton, I5 m., lying beyond Coxhcath, one of the tenqjorary Aldershotts of the last centiu-y. In 1778 15,000 troops were encamped on it. Linton Flace (Earl Cornwallis) well deserves a visit for the sake of its noble view. "The house is fine," wrote (1757) Walpole to Sir H. Mann, whose elder brother then pos- sessed it, " and stands like the cita- del of Kent. The whole county is its garden. So rich a j^rospect scarce wants my Thames." Linton passed from the Manns by marriage into the Cornwallis family. The body of Sir Horace Mann, WaliJole's correspond- ent, was brought from Florence, where he died (178(;), and buried in Linton ch. In 17p8 Walpole had himself erected a monmnent here for Galfridus Mann, brother of Sir Horace, which the visitor may still criticise. "The thought was my own," he writes, " adapted from the antique columljaria, and applied to Gothic. The execution of the de- sign was Mr. Bentley's, who alone of all mankind could unite the grace of Grecian architecture and the irre- gidar lightness and solemnity of Gothic The soifete is more beautiful than anything of either style separate Tlie tu-n is of marble, richly polished ; the rest of stone. On the whole I think there is simplicity and decency, with a degi'ee of ornament that destroys neither." This Strawberry Hill de- scription is at least as remarkable as the urn itself. Some later monu- ments for the Coniwallis family, by Bailey, will be noticed for very dif- ferent reasons. At Bougldon MoncJielsea, a short distance beyond Linton (where, in a fissure, the late Dr. Buckland dis- covered remains of hya>na), and in many of the adjoining parishes, quar- ries of the "Kentish rag" are ex- tensively worked. This rock forms the lowest stratum of the "lower grecnsand," and consists of alternate 96 Route 6. — London to Sevenoaks. Sect. I. beds of siliceous sandstone and lime- stone, closely resembling the " Bar- gate-stone " of Siurey. The Kentish rag has been worked and used from a very early ptriod. The foundations of the Temple of Diana, discovered by Sir Christopher Wren under the site of old St. Paid's, were of this stone : and the walls of numerous cluu-clies throughout the county are built of it, as are those of nearly all oastles and ecclesiastical buildings bordering t]ie Thames and tlie Med- way. Owing to its great hard- ness, balls for catapidts and other engines of mediaeval warfare were made fi-om it ; and 7000 cannon- balls were worked out of the " Maid- stone quarries " at the order of Henry VI. For Merewortli, and the rich line of countiT traversed by the branch railway from Paddock Wood to Maidstone, see Etc. 7. The 7 m. between Mereworth and Maidstone were pronounced by Cobbett the " finest in Kent," and are witliout doubt almost imequalled in fer- tility. The carefid garden cultiva- tion of Belgium is here seen, with the additional advantage of a pic- ttu-esque country. For the places of interest between Maidstone and Sevenoaks, 18 m., .see Kte. 6. Thence by omnibus (running daily) to Sevenoaks. ROUTE 6. LONDON TO SEVENOAKS. By tlie Mid-Kent Eailway (Lon- don Bridge station) to I5eckenham. The line to Beckenham, after leaving tlie Lewisham Junction, fol- lows the course of tlie Bavensbourne, a streandet that, uniting with the Kid below Lewisham, falls into tjie Thames between Deptford and Greenwich. [From the Lewisham station, Ell- ham, 3 m., may be visited. It is 4 m. from Greenwich and from Blacklieath. Eltham {eald-ham, the old home or dwelling) is chiefly interesting as having been a royal residence of the kings of England from the days of Henry HI. (1271) to those of Henry VIII., who, in 1527, or sliortly after, neglected it for his new palace at Greenwich. The principal remain- ing jjortions of the palace are, — the hanqueting-hall, a noble apartment, with its magnificent roof of oak, por- tions of its music gallery, its two unequalled bays, and its series of double windows on cither side, still in good preservation ; the huttenj (now the residence of Riclid. Blox- am, Esq.), with its beautiful cor- belled attics and ancient barge- board gables ; the iv\'-covered hridfje, with its three ril^bed arches, span- ning the moat on the N. side ; the curious drains, formerly used as sall)'- ports in cases of emergency; an<l the battlemented wall, flanked with loopholed turrets. As a specimen of domestic architecture of the time of Edward IV. (whose devices, the fal- con and fetterlock and the rose en soleil, may still be discovered among the carvings of the doorway and oriel windows), the baiiqueting- hall is of great interest. It was rescued from speedy decay by repairs undertaken by order of government in 1828, when 700?. were expended on it, though it is still degraded into a barn, as it has been for more than a centur}\ Yet it was on this site that our Edwards and Henrvs were Kent. Route G. — Eltham. — Beckeniiam. 97 wont to keeiD their Christmas with splendoiu- and feasting, and that par- liaments and great councils of the realm were frequently held. Edward III. sumptuously entertained here (1364) his former prisoner, John Kmg of France. Eichard II. here received Leo King of Armenia, when driven out of his dominions by the Turks ; and Froissart, the his- torian, was present in the court at Eltham during the same reign. Queen Elizabeth, when a baby, was frequently brought over here for change of air from her birth- place at Greenwich, which, how- ever, like her royal father, she pre- ferred as a residence. Diuing the civil war the palace of Eltham was occupied by the Earl of Essex, who died here 1()46 ; an^ it was bestowed by Charles II., after the restoration, on Sir John Shaw, for services ren- dered at Brussels and Antwerp. It continues in his family, although a l^ortion of laud originally in the royal park is still vested in the crown. The hall goes by the name of " King John's Bai-n," perhaps from some confusion with a son of Edward II., called " John of Eltham," wlio was born here, and died young. One of the titles of 'the Prince of Wales is Earl of Eltham. Subterranean passages have been traced for some 100 yards in a south- easterly du-ection. The moat, which still surrounds the entire building, has been partially drained and turfed. Many foundations of walls remain witliin its area. An archway in the palace " pleasaunce," now occupied by a market-gardener, is worthy of notice, as being the entrance to the old tilt-yard or tilting-coiu-t. The Church of Eltham is an ugly building, the greater part of which is modern, the spire an<l N. aisle being the only ancient parts re- maining. In the churchyard is the tomb, marked by an urn, of George Home, Bp. of Norwich (d. 1792), IKent & Sussex.^ the connnentator on the Psalms ; and that of Doggett, the comedian (d. 1721), joint manager of Drury Lane with Wilks and Gibber, wlio Itequeathed the coat and badge for which tlie " jolly yoxmg watermen " of the Thames still contend an- nually. '■ Congreve," says Cibber, " was a great admirer of Doggett, and foiuid his account in the cha- racters he expressly wrote for him. In those of Fondlewife in the ' Old Bachelor,' and Ben in ' Love for Love,' no author and actor could be more obliged to tlieh mutual masterly performances." Sir Wil- liam James, the conqueror of Severn- droog, whose " castle " stands con- spicuously on Shooter's Hill, above Eltliam, was also biu'ied here. Vandyke, during his life in Eng- land, had a summer residence at Eltliam. The Philipotts, authors of the ' Survey of Kent,' were natives of this place. John Lilbourne, famous for his eccentric movements dur- ing the " general eclipse " of the civil wars, at last turned Quaker and settled here, where he died in 1057. Dr. Sherard, tlie botanist, lived here during the early part of the last cen- tury ; and Dillenius, whom Sherard had laronght to England, and whom he afterwards appointed the first Professor of Botany in the chair founded by him at Oxford, spent much of liis tmiehere, and pidjlished a catalogue of Sherard's plants with the title 'Hurtus Elthamensis.' The house in which Sherard lived still exists.] The scenery on the Jlid-Kent rail- way is of no great interest imtil 12 m. Beckenham is reached. (For Stjdenham see Handbook for Surrey, &g.) The village of Beckenham (the home by the bee or brookj is plea- santly old-fashioned, and well shel- tered by thick masses of trees, from tlie midst of which rises the white church-spire. The building itself 98 Route G . — Beckenham. — Bromley. Sect. I. has been hideously clnux'liAvardeii- isod, and is of little interest. It contains some modem monuments tor the families of Hoare and Auck- land; and a tablet, the design of which, at least, may be commended, for Capt. Hedley Vicars, of tlie 'J7th regt., who fell at Sebastoiiol. The lich-gate remains, at the end of a line of clipped yews, opening to the S. porch. In the churcliyard is the tomb of Edward King (d. 1807), author of the ' Munimenta Antiqua,' Avho resided here for many years. An earlier celebrity of Btckenham was Margaret Finch, queen of the gipsies, buried here in 1740. She lived to the age of 109, and during the latter part of her life settled at Norwood, then a favourite restiag- j)!aco with the " tribes of the wan- dering foot." " From a habit of sitting on the ground with her chin resting on her knees, the sinews at length became so contracted, that 'she could not rise from that posture. After her death they were ol)liged to enclose her body in a deep s<]uare box. Her funeral was attended by two mourning-coaches, a sermon was preached upon the occasion, and a great concourse of people attended the ceremony." — Lyscms. Another queen of the Norwood gipsies was l)uried at Dulwich in 17(J8. How far the royal title was in either case more than one of com'tesy seems very doubtful, and can only be decided by a skilful Romany " Lavengro." In the neighbourhood are Bn-lien- liam Flare (Peter Cator, Esq.), Kel- sey I'urh (P. E. Hoare, Esq.), Laiig- Ity Farm (Lancelot Holland, Esq.), and Langley Park (E. Goodhart, Esq.). [A very pleasant vxdk may be taken from Beckenham to Bromley, and thence by Sundridge to Cliisle- hurnt. A field-path, keeping the bank of the Ravensbourne, leads to IJromley, whence the tourist may proceed to Chislchurst by the main track, a very beautiful road, or find his way by tlie footpath on the 1. to Sundridge, where, in the sand-pits in and about the park, characteristic fossils are abundant. For this place and Chislehurst, see jMsfJ} A steep, hilly road leads from Beckenham to Bromley, 2 m., where the old high road from London is entered. Bromley still vindicates its name ; since tlie golden flowers of the broom brighten some few sjjots here in the early spring, al- though tlie larger portion has disap- peared. The town stands very pleasantly on high ground, from which good views are commanded to the W. and S.W. It was granted to the Clunch of Rochester at an early period, and the original grant was confirmed by Edgar in 907, together with considerable riglits in the " Andredeswald " — the great forest of the Weald. Bp. Gundulf built a palace here soon after the Con- quest, wliich was much improved by his successors. The present build- ing, however, dates only from 1770, wlieii it was completed by Bp. Thomas, who entirely pulled down tlie old palace " among the elms," visited by Walpole in 1752 " for the sake of the chimney in wliich had stood a flower-pot, in which was put the counterfeit iilot against Bp. Sprat." The flower-pot itself was preserved at Matsou, in Gloucester- shire, the scat of George Selwyn. ( For details of this famous plot, the design of which was to brand the bisliop as a Jacobite, see Macaulay, vol. iii.) Altliougli the palace had been improved by Bj). Atterbm'y, the successor of Sprat, whom Pope frequently visited here, it is called by Walpule " a paltry parsonage." Its successor, a plain brick mansion, stands pleasantly on the brow of tlie hill ; but althougli still called the Palace, it is no longer the property of the bishops, nor even in the see of Rochester. It is at present the resi- Kent. Route G. — Bromley. — Su)idrid<je Park. 99 dence of Coles' Cbikl, Esq., the lord of the manor, wlio purchased it from the commissioners when the see was enlarged, and the episcopal resi- dence iixed at Dauhmy in Essex. Bromley is now in tlie diocese of Canterbury. In the garden of tlie old palace ivas the "clear little pond teeming with gold fish " wljich rivalled tlie Strawberry Po-Yang. " The bishop," says Walpole, " is more prolific than 1 am." Witiiont, in the grounds, till lately, existed St. Blaize's Well, near wliich a small oratory formerly stood, of which no traces remain. Tiicro is a rather powerful chalybeate at the head of tlic largest pond. The Church, mainly Pcrp. and containing a Norm, font, is of little interest, having been mainly rebuilt in 1829, with the exception of the tower, the only part wliich has any architectm-al merit. The E. window has lately been filled with stained glass by Willement. Bp. Pearce, tlie editor of Longinus (d. 1774), and Bp. Youge (d. 1605), are both buried here. In the nave is the gravestone of Dr. Johnson's wife " Tetty," so fre- quently mentioned in his devotions. She was buried here by tlie direction of Dr. Hawksworth, the friend of Jolmson, wlio resided at Bromley, and to whom the disposition of lier remains had been intrusted. The Latin epitaph, in which she is de- scribed as " formosa, culta, ingeni- osa, pia," is by Johnscni himself, and was written a short time before his own deatli. In tlie N. aisle is the monument of Dr. Hawkswortli, prin- cipal author of ' The Adventurer,' a pa.ssage from the 140th No. of which forms the inscription. Brass: Isa- bella, wife of Kie. Lacer, Loril Mayor of Tjondon, i;>r){J. From a field a few steps beyond the ciiurcli N. is a good view look- ing across Beckenliam to the Crystal Palace and the heights of Penge. Bromley Colle(je, a large red brick building at tlie N. end of the town, was founded by J^p. Warner (d. 1G6(J) for " 20 widows of loyal and ortiiodox clergymen." Its re- soui-ces have been considerably in- creased by later contributions, and it now aifords 40 widows an allow- ance of 38Z. a year each, with a sepa- rate residence. Tlie buildings were put into thorougli repair in 1765, 500?. having been bequeathed fur the purpose by the mother of Gene- ral Wolfe. Tiie college was the first of its kind established in England, but was sj^eedily imitated at Win- chester by Bp. Morley, at Salisbm-y and at Froxfield in Wilts by the Ducliess of Somerset. In the chapel here is a good whole-length jjoi'trait of Bp. Warner. [In the neighboiu-liood of Bromley are Plaistow Lod<ie (Robert Boyd, Esq.), BUMeij P'urh (Wm. Dent, Esq.), and Snitdridije (Samuel Scott, Esq.). Tliis last place may be visited in a walk from Brtunley to Chisle- hm-st — an exciu-sion much to be re- commended. Tlie Kentish lane, hung with w^ild fiowers and over- shadowed by oak-l;)ranches, through which the tourist will make his way, is a very beautiful one. " One of the most interesting loealitirs I am acquainted -with is Sundridge Park, where a hard con- glomerate, entirely made up of oyster-shells ('?), and the shingle that formed tlieir native bed, is quar- ried.' (The quarries are not, liow- ever, in the park.) " Tliis stone is much employed for ornamental rock-work, and several walls in and near Bromley are constructed of it : these display the fossils some witii the valves closed, others open, others detached, and the wliole grouped as if artificially em- bedded to expose tlie characters of tlie shells. Tliese oyster-beds b( long to the tertiary strata of the London basin ; tliey extend to Plum- stead and otlier places in tlie viei- F 2 100 Eoute G. — ■Chalk-pits. — Chishhurst. Sect. I. nity ; and in some localities the oystcTS are associated with other liivalves, called PectunculL" — Man- tell. The British strata yield be- tween 40 and 50 species of fossil oyst.TS. Those found at Sundridge very closely resemble the Tlianies "natives," their modern descendants. A short distance before the tour- ist reaches Cliislehurst Common he will pass over a small stream (tlie Kid?), one of the tributaries to the river Eavensbourne, spanned by a single-arclied bridge of very early date, probably coeval with the N. wall of the church (about 12(;0), and on reaching tlie common he will see 1. Camden Place (Mrs. Martin), for- merly the summer residence of tlie great antiquary Camden —Ben Jon- son's "... mcist reverend head, to whom I owe All that 1 am hi arts, all that I know. How nothing's that! to whom my country owes The great renown and name wherewith she goes ! " The place itself was named by Cam- den, who first piuchased it in 1(J09. He is said to have written liis 'An- nals of Queen Elizabetli ' here ; and certainly died here in 1G23. He was interred in Westminster Abbey. Lord Chancellor Pratt was raised to the peerage in 17(J5 by the title of Baron Camden of Camden Place, which was sold by his son and successor. Throngliout this district the re- markable chalk-])its, already noticed at E. Tilbury (Kte. 1) and 'at Cray- ford and Dartford (Kte. 2), are fre- quent. They are liere called " drawpits," and resemble very closely tliose already descriljeil, being circular, well-like excavations, from 20 to 50 feet in depth, and expanding at tlie bottom, or running out into short passages. Tiiey are liere very numerous, iind their situa- tions so little known tliat accidents arc not mifre<|uently caused by tliem. In tlie summer of 1857 one of these pits in the lower part of Camden Park, which had become tilled up by surface drainage, was excavated witii great care, in the hope of tlirowing some light on its history. The diameter of the aper- ture measured 1 1 feet, and its height 17 feet, with a slightly concave base, cu-cular and tool-cut. At the bottom was discovered a mass of bones of animals of various si^ecies, among wliich were some entire skeletons, one of tlie lioi'se, others of the pig and ox (the head appear- ing to be that of Bos longifrons), several dogs, and some wolves (the jaws distinguishing them from the dog). Jaws of deer and roe, and a few delicate and jjerfect skulls of the hedgehog were also found ; and throughout the mass great quanti- ties offresliwater shelh {Helix nenio- ralis). All were the bones of exist- ing races, excepting that supposed to be Bos longifrons ; but from their decomposing state when submitted to the action of the atmosijhere, it was clear that they had rested where they were found for ce-nturies. Im- mediately above the bones, masses of squared chalk and large flint were found, thus leading to the conclu- sion that the various animals, in traversing the woods, had fallen in through the aperture, and that after a lapse of time the stemming of the jut had given way and buried their skeletons. Among the bones were discovered six distinct portions of early pottery, British and Koman, together with a fragment of red iSaniian ware. The very early origin of these pits is tlius satisfactorily established, althougli their purpose still remains somewhat uncertain. (See Etes. 1 and 2.) The village of Cliislehurst (Sax. Ceosil, a pebble ; the " stony-hurst " or wood) is situated on one of tlie most beautiful commons in Kent, covered with furze and heather, Kent. Route 6. — Chishliurst. — Hayes. 101 surrounded by magnificent trees, and about 300 ft. above the sea. Near the ch. are the remains of the an- cient cockjjit, where cook-fights took place, and otlier now obsok-te games were played. Here also the may- pole probably stood. The Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is a most picturesque oltject, chiefly Perp., the N. wall and font being E. E. The chancel was rebuilt in 1849, and a new S. aisle added. The spire and bells were destroyed by fire in March, 1857, but have since been restored. Of the Monuments, re- mark that of Sir Edmund (d. 1549) and Sk Thomas Walsingham (d. 1630), erected by the last before his death tci the memory of his father, Sir Edmund, and also serv- ing as his own monument. The tomb is decorated with gilt foliage and a canopy. A poetical inscription under the first arch indicates that Sir Thomas was but an indifferent versifier : the first lines run — " A knight, sometime of wurthie fame, Lyeih buried under this stoiiie bower; Sir Edmund Wiilsingbam was his name. Lieutenant he was of London Tower." The Walsingharas (who had, how- ever, before this been resident at Chisleliurst) received a lease of the manor from Elizabeth, and Sir Francis Walsingham, tlie great statesman, was born liere, but in what year is uncertain. The Wal- singham tomb is at the end of the N. aisle ; and over the arch divid- ing it from the nave are the cog- nizances of Edward IV. (a falcon and stirrup) and of Henry VII. (the rose and crown), with the dates 1422 and 1460. In the S. aisle is the monument of Sir Philip War- wick, " an acceptable servant to Charles I. in all his exti-emities, and a ftiithful one to King Charles II." After Ids retirement from public af- fairs in 1667, he fixed his residence at Frognal, near Chisleliurst, where he died in 1682. His 'Memoirs of Charles I.' rank among the most valuable and authentic records of the time. Tlie eh. contains numerous otlier monuments, but of no great interest. In tlie churchyard is the tundj of Mr. Bonar, wlio was mmdered here with his wife by their servant. Sir Nicholas Bacon, the Lord Keeper, and father of the great Lord Veridam, is another of tlie Eliza- bethan worthii s who confer a grave ah of ruffs and trunk-hose on Cliisle- hiu'st. He was born here, but in what year is uncertain. Frognal, Sir Philip Warwick's an- cient place, is now the seat of Ijord Sydney, in whose family it has been since 1760. The whole neighbour- hood is veiy pleasant and pictur- esque ; abounding in the green wooded hills that make one of the especial bt auties of Kent. The Mid- Kent railway is continued to St. Mary Cray. For the drive along the stream of the Cray, from here to Crayford, one of the pkasantest in the countv, see Ete. 2.] The road from Bromhy to Seven- oaks, 14 m., is a perpetual succes- sion of landscapes ; such as will give the tomist the most agreeable impression of the county into which he is advancing. ^ m. bt yond Brom- ley a lane rt. leads to tlie village of ITcnjes, 1^ m., to be visited by all who reverence the memory of the great Lord Chatham. Hayes Flace (now occupied by Miss Traill), where Lord Chatl'.am died, and wliere his not less illustrious son William Pitt was born in 1759, stands close to the ch., and is a white brick building of no great beauty or pretence. It was purchased in 1757 from the Har- risons by Lord Chatham, who built the present house. It owes its brick casing, however, to the Hon. Thomas Walpole, to whom tlic jilaco was sold in 1766; but in tlie following year Lord Chatham became greatly desirous of retm-ning to Hayes, 102 Route 6. — Hayes. — " dcsar's Camp.'' Sect. I. ■where " in former years he had made improvements whicli his memory fondly recalled ; plantations for ex- ample pursued with so much ardour and eagerness tliat they were not even interrupted at niohttall, hut were continued by torchliglit and witii relavs of labourers." — Lord SUuihope, Hist. Eng., v. 283. (Tlie bi.lts thus planted are still jiointed out at Hayes.) TJie estate was accordingly reconveyed to him ; atid it continued his favourite residence for the remainder of his life. The park is not large, tliough pleasant ; and a sti-eam which joins the Eavensbourne near Bromley passes througli it. Hayes Church is a small E. E. building of no great interest. It has been lately enlarged under the direction of Mr. G. Seott, when it was found tliat tlie old walls were constructed of remnants of Roman tiles. In the chancel are hung the banners used at the pnl>lic funeral of Chatl lam. Brasses : John Heygge, rector, 1525 ; John Andrew ; John Osteler (no date)— all of small sizi». [2 m. beyond Hayes is West Wick- hnin, where is an interesting ch. : and Wichlmm Court, a turretcd manor-house, dating from the reign of Henry VII. Eor these places, whicli are best readied from Croy- don, see Handhooh for Surreij, (fcc] 2 ra. from Bromley, a road rt. branches off to Westcrham, 10 m. The scenery is very beautiful, and tlie toiu'ist in search of the pictur- esque will liardly go wrong, whe- tlier lie continues in tlie direct line to Sevenoaks, or turns off here, and crosses to Sevenoaks from Wester- ham (see post). KestrDi, 1 m., on the Westerliam road, lias a small Norm, and E. E. c]i. Considerable remains of Roman villas, &c., were lately found in a field on the rt. of the Westerliam road, as it leaves Keston Common, the view from wliieh is of extreme beauty. In the angle between the village of Keston and tlie Sevenoaks road are Hol- ivood Hill and Hohvood House (built by Jolm Ward, Esq., but now the residence of the Lord Chancellor), long tlie favourite residence of Wil- liam Pitt, the gi-eat minister, avIio was born at Hayes Place, about 1 m. distant, and who took great pleasure in planting and laying out the gr(5unds here. Tlie present Iiouse dates only from 1823, wlien tliat in whicli Pitt resided, a small brick and plaster building, was pulled down. On the brow of the hill, and com- manding an extensive view on evtiy side (for which it should be ascended even if the tourist have no antiqua- rian bent), are tlie remains of a very large and imjiortant fortification, called " Caesar's Camp," which is now generally thought to mark the site of tlie ancient Noviomagus, a Brito-Roman town in the ti rritories of the Regni. The form of the en- closm-e was oblong, with tri^jle dykes and trenches, surrounding nearly 100 acres, a size altogether unusual. Tiie external vallmn was about 2 m. in circuit, but the largest portions were many years since levelled ; the S. parts now alone remain. [Ilorsehj (Brit. Rom.) remarks tliat the largest station he knew of was " not a tenth part of this compass." We have here, however, the site of a town, probably of British origin ; and not of a merely military station such as Rutuiiia3 (Richborough) or Regnl- biuin (Reculver). TJie walls of the great to\vn of C.dleva (Silchester) are nearly 3 m. in circuit.] Part of tlie fortifications have been much injured, anel the rc'st are overgrown with wood ; but sufficient remains to indicate their ancient conditieni and impe>rtance. Roman bricks anel tiles, together with various coins of the midelle and lower empire, are constantly founel here ; as well as the foundations of buildings, many Kent. Fioute G. — Farnhorough. — Gravel Bed. 103 of which were exposed in 1856, across the valley towards Baston. Layers of Eoinan bricks and tih's appear in the towers of several of the village churches in the neigh- bourhood. The Eoman Watling Street, after crossing Blackheath, passed to this town of Noviomagiis, and then turned northward, over Sydenham Connnon to Tjondon. One of tlie som-ces of the Eavens- boui-ne rises close without the W. side of the entrenchments. The spring has been enlarged, and formed into a basin. Tlie village of Farnhorovgh, 4 m. fiom Bromley, need not dt-lay the tom-ist. The ch. was rebuilt after 1639. Adjoining the village is High Elms (Sir Joliu Lubbock), who has founded, aiid supports, excellent infant-schools in this and the neigh- bouring parishes. The high road from London as far as Farnborougli passes over lower tertiary beds, excejjt that a small bed of drift gravel occurs here and there. At Farnborough, however, the chalk crops out ui)on the surface. Immediately lieyoud is the hamlet of Green Street Green ; and if the geologist here turns to the 1. of the main road, and ascends Well Hill, he will be amply repaid for his exertions. Green Street Green itself is situ- ated in a trough which has been excavated out of the chalk, and whicli is partly occujned by a deposit of " drift" gravel. This ""drift" is a coarse clayey gravel containing flints of two sorts, both of which have been excavated by the action of water from the chalk in which tliey wei-e formed. The one sort, liowever, has, after its removal fi-om tlie chalk, been subject ordy to wear and tear suffi- cient to render blunt the sharp edges. The second description of flints has a different history. They have been obtained from tlie strata called the " Woolwich and Blaekiieatli pebble- beds ;" and having been subject to great and long-continued action of water, are reduced to tlie form of round pebbles. Bones and tusks of the mammoth (Elephas primi- genius) have been found in this gravel. Ascending the hill toward Cliels- field, we soon rise above the drift gravel, and come again to the chalk, which may be seen in tlie little cuttings along the side of the road until beyond the village. When, however, we have got more than halfway up the hill, the lower tertiary strata, which we had left at Farnljorougli, reappear on the top of the chalk, and are well exposed by the cuttings along the sides of several of the lanes which ascend the hill. They must therefore at one period have extended over the intermediate space, from which they have since been removed. Further, the extreme top of the hill is capped by a deposit of very peculiar gravel, which is quite distinct from tliC " Woolwich and Blackheath" pebble- beds on the one hand, and from the lower level drift, such as that at Green Street Green, on the other. The flints are less rolled than those of the formtr stratti, and more so than those of the latter. Tlie whole gravel is very white, and contains, besides the flints, pieces of chert and Ihts of quiirtz from the green- sands which lie S. This very re- markable bed of gravel was first introduced to the notice of geologists by Mr. Prestwich, and suggests many interesting reflections. In the first place, it is only 200 or 300 square yards in extent, and there is no other bed of gravel in the innnediate neighbourhood ofl'ering similar characters. It is the only re- maining I'cpresentative of a stratum all the rest of which has perished ; and oft'ers in fact a page in the history of the district, which but for this shght record would have 10-i Route 6. — Chelsfield. — Chevening. Sect. I. been entirely obliterated. Secourlly, though it is now the highest hill in the neighbourhood, yet, as gravel can only be formed by water, and water will only remain in hollows, it must, at a recent period in geolo- gical time have been at a very low level. This suV)ject will, however, be amplj' treated in the forthcoming work of Mr. Prestwicli (who has already so well described the ter- tiary strata) ' On the Drift Gravels of the S.E. of England,' whicli is anxiously expected by all geologists. From the narrow ridge forming the top of Well Hill a splendid panoramic view is obtained on all sides. In the ch. of Clielsfield, 1 m. 1. of Farnliorough, is an elaborate monument for Peter Collet, ;dder- man of London, d. 1607 ; and an altar- tomb, with brasses of the Virgin and St. John, for Eobort de IJrun, rector, 1417. Brasses: William Ilobroke, rector, 1420 ; Alicia, wife of Tlionias Bray, and 4 sons, 1.510. Tlie spire of Ciidharii Clun-eli now conies into view on its high ground rt. A large portion of the parisli is occupied by the Cudham woods, and the whole place is so -wild and soli- tary that the tourist will liave diffl- cidty in believing himself to be less than 20 m. from London Bridge. Beyond Cudham appears the clump of the Kiwrkholt beeches ; a landmark for all the country round about, and visible from the S'ydenliam Palace, i'voni Gravesend, and from Leitli Hill, in Surrey. Tlie Church of Knock- holt dates from the end of Henry Ill.'s reign, when it was built by a certain Ealph Scot, who had fixed liis " hall" tliere. It contains no mo- numents of importance. The road now crosses the high chalk ridge above Sevenoaks, from tlie summit of which the view over the fertile valley of Holmdale, S., is of extreme beauty, and skirts the park of Chevening (Earl ofStanhopej. The house is seen from the top of the hill a little to the rt. There are two manors of Che- vening ; one of which belonged to the see of Canterbury until the Re- formation, when it passed into the hands of the crown. The second, whicli has far more liistoric interest, early belonged to a family named from it De Chevening, or Chown- ing ; and passed through the Len- nards, afterwards Lords Dacre, to Tiiomas Lennard, Lord Dacre, created Earl of Sussex by Cliarles II. His daughters and co-heirs sold Chevening in 1717 to General Stanhope, the hero of Port Mahon and of Almenara, grandson of Philip, first Earl of Chesterfield ; and after- wards created Earl of Stanhope for his great services dm-ing the War of the Succession. Chevening remains in the hands of his descendants. The house, rebuilt by Richard Lennard, Lord Dacre of tlie South (d. 1030), from designs by Inigo Jones, stands at t)ie foot of the chalk-ridge, but still on tolerably high ground. All traces of the original architect have, however, disappeared ; a result of the nume- rous alterations, both external and internal, which have fi'om time to time been made here. Chevening contains some interesting portraits : among the best are — The first Earl Stanhope, Commander of tlie British Army in Spain during the War of the Succession, and afterwards prime minister under George I., lialf-length by Kiieller ; Earl of Stanhope, Ambassador to tlie Court of Charles II. of Spain ; Ijord Chesterfield, Gainshoroiigh; the great Lord Chatham ; Ducliess of Cleve- land, when old ; and Mary Lepel, Lady Hervey, aged. In the ground is a fine lake, siuTounded by noble trees ; and the close-mown turf walks between the alleys and along the terraces are very pleasant. A mass of Roman moniunental stones Kent. Bouts G. — Sevanoaks. — Knole. 105 and altars brought from Tarragona by the first Lord Stanhope shoukl be examined by the antiquary. A road cut by the directions of Lord Cliatliam winds up tlie combe at the back of the house. From the hill-top a noble view is commanded. The Pilgrim's road, a ver}' ancient and probably Britisli trackwaj', passing from Hampshire toward Can- terbury, formerly ran across the park N. of the house, but was closecl by an Act of Parliament obtained by the late Lord Stanhope. The house and grounds of Chevening are at all times open to the public. The Church has some E. E. por- tions, but is chiefly Perp. It con- tains some interesting monuments. In the S. chancel are altar-tombs with effigies of John Lennard and his wife Elizabetli, d. 1590 ; and of Sampson Leimard and his wife Margaret Fiennes, Lady Dacre (d. 1615), through whom the peerage of the Dacres passed to the family of Lennard. The kind of mattress on which the first two figure s are laid is unusual. Here is also the monu- ment of the great Lord Stanhope, a black marble tablet erected by his great-grandson. The banners car- ried at his funeral are suspended over his grave. Besides these, re- mark a monument liy Chantrey for Tiady Frederick Staidiope, daughter of the Earl of Mansfii Id, who died in childbirth. The child rests on the bosom of the mother. The design is aflfecting and successful. Brass : man and wife, unknown ; the date, 15!>(), remains. Tln-ough a ri(;hiy wooded country, and crossing the stream of the Darent, we reacli 14 m. Irom Bromley, and 24 m. from liondon, Sevenoalis. (Pop. 3000. Inns : IJoyal Crown ; Dorset Arms — both good). The town stands pleasantly on high ground, in the midst of fine and varied scenery, and is a centre from which very interesting excm'- sions may be made. Lodgings and fm-nished houses are to be had at moderate rates during the summer. Sevenoaks itself is of consid( r- al)le antiquity ; but contains- little of interest. About 1 m. Inyond the town, on the Tuiibridge road, nearly opposite the White Hart Inn, rt., are seven trees traditionally said to re- present the oalis which first gave name to the town. The Church, at the S. end of Seven- oaks, is conspicuous from all tlie slUTOunding country. It is mainly Perp. I'here are monimients for some of the Amherst family; and in the N. chancel one for William Lambarde, the " perambu- lator of Kent, and the father of comity historians' (d. IGOl), re- moved here fi-om Greenwich after the destruction of the ch. there. Brass: Hugh Owen, rector; date mrcertain. The School and Almshouses, which adjoin, were rebuilt in 1727. Both were founded liy William Sevenokes, Lord Mayor of London, tenqx Hen. v., who was discovered when an infant in the hollow of a tree near this place (hence his name), and sidjsequently ran the career of Hogarth's virtuous apprentice. Brought up by charitable persons, he left his own fortune in charity. Various benefactions were made after his death to the school, which was entitled " The Grammar School of Queen Elizabeth," by her Ma- jesty's letters patent, and receivid at the same time its common seal, represfiifing a formidable pedagogue with 1)0(ik and birch. It is now of some reputation, and has many exhibitions attached to it. The great lion of Sevenoaks, and one of tlie most intert sting places in Kent, is Knole (Lady Amherst, Countess of Plymouth), the park gates of which are nearly opposite the ch. F 3 lOG Route 6. — Knoh. Sect. I. A drive of about J m. tlirougli groves of uoble trees, and over iiu- dulatiug ground, where the deer ^are seen qiiietly feeding, or half shrouded in the deep fern, leads to the house, which is almost always open to the public. As, however, some restrictions are occasionally made, the tomist coming to this neighboin-hood purposely to visit Knolo wdl do will to inquire, by letter addressed to one of the prin- cipal hotels at Sevenoaks, whether any special days are fixed as those of admission. Knole was one of the 16 palaces at one time possessed by the see of Canterlnny ; that of Otford, at least equally large, being banly 4 m. distant. It was purchased in 145G from Lord Say and SlIc, by Abp. Bouchier, wlio enclosed tlie park, rebuilt the house, and left tlie whole to the see, dying hi re in 14S(J. Cardinal Morton, his successor, added largely to the palace, received visits here from Henry VII., and died here in 1500. Abp. Warham entertained Hemy VIII. at Knole in 1504 and 1514, but chiefly resided at Otford. Cranmer, who lived here occasionally, resigned the place to Henry Vltl. The estate passed through the usiial succession of royal favourites — Elizabeth herself visiting " her house at Knole" in 1573— until it finally (1003) fell into the possession of Thomas Sack- ville. Earl of Dorset, and Ixird Treasurer. It was alienated for a short time, and repiuehased in the reign of Charles II. ; but with that exception it has remained in the family, and is now the property of the Countess-Dowager of Plymouth, a co-heiress of the last Saekville, Didce of Dorset, and wife of tlie late Lord Amherst. From the almost unaltered cha- racter of its fittings and decorations, Knole is one of the most interest- ing baronial mansions in England. The furniture throughout dates from the reigns of James I. and Cliarles I., and still exhibits, as when Waljiole visited it, " ancient magnificence : loads of portraits, not good nor cm-ious ; ebony cabinets ; endjossed silver in vases, dishes, &c. ; em- broidered beds, stift' chairs, and sweet bags lying on velvet tables, richly worked in silk and gold." The assemblage of historical portraits, in spite of Walpole's detraction, and aUliOugli many are co])ies, piojde the venerable rooms very strikingly. The liouse was thorougldv refitted, 1(J05-1G07, by Thomas first Earl of Dorset,, and the character of that age is impressed both on the build- ing itself (which he altered and added to) and on the furniture. About 17 rooms are shown, all low and gloomy. The family inhabit a modernised suite of ajjartments in tlie W. front, which arc not shown. The principal, or N.W., front is composed of a central gatel;ouse, with a long range of galdes ;uid un- relieved wall. The windows are square-headed. The general effect is collegiate — a character which may have been derived from the early proprietors of Knole. The fine gate- way with doid^le arch in the first court ( which is carpeted with green- sward, and " has a brautifnl, decent simplicity that charms one" — Wal- pole) is thought to have been built by Abp. Bouchier (1454-1480), and the oriel window over it contains his crest in the glass (a falcon, with bonrehier's knot). The st'cond, or pavtd court, is fronted with a poor Ionic colonnade, beneath which you enter the Great Hall, altered, rootV d, and fitted up by Thomas Hackville, TiOrd Baekhurst (the poet), after- wards 1st Earl of Dorset, to whom the estate was given by Queen Elizabeth. It is 75 ft. long and 27 high, with a fiat roof and a dais. Tlie fireplace at the side contains the ornamental fire-dogs be aring the K'tiNT. Route 6. — Kiiole — Pictures 107 arms (auJ initials H. A.) of Henry VIII. and Anue Bolt'yn, brought from Hever Castle. At the lower end runs a music-gallery of elaborately carved wood, rich in ornaments and barbarously encrusted with paint. On the dais is placed a tine antique statue, called Demosthents, tliongh by some sujiposed to represent Pytlia- goras. " It is in excellent preserva- tion, only the hands and portions of the feet being new." Kemark the skill with which tlie drapery is disposed. Tliis figiuv was bought in Italy for TOOL by the third liarl of Dorset. Another (the nymph Egeria) is of inferior excellence. Of the pictun's, remark — George III. and Queen, Rummy; Countess of Monmouth, Mijtens ; Lord Somers, Lionel Duke of Dorset, Kneller ; Duke d'E])ernon, A. More; Death of Marc Antony, Dance ; Finding of Moses, Giordano; Ani- mals, Siiyders ; Bacchanals, Hulwns; and a curious pictui-e of the Arundel family. A small but well-iir(.)portioned staircase leads to the Bnnvn Galkry, hung with a set of historical por- traits, cliietly of the reigns of Henry VIII., Elizabeth, and James I., for the most part copies by one and the same hand. "They seem," says Walpole, " to have been bespoke by the yard, and drawn all by the same painter." There are, however, some exceptions, such as — Cromwell, by Walker. Queen Elizaljeth, a very pale "occidental star," shadowless, and very ugly. Catherine of Arra- gon, Holbein. Luther, IVIelancthori, and Pomeranius, the Eeform( rs, after Cranarh. The Emperor Chark-s V., after Andx-njer, pupil ol' Holbein. Ninon de I'Enclos, at tlie age of 70. A male head, in a black skull-cap (good). Ortelius, the geographer, in a circular frame, lloJhein (good). Charles II., Ldy. The Countess of Desmond. Milton, when young. William Prince of Orange as a boy, Jansen. Of the furniture, remark the chair in which James I. sat when here, and which, like tlie " throne " in which his most sacred Majesty Charles II. reposed at Tillietudlem, is guarded from all meaner approach. The chamber of Lmhj Betty Grr- malne (d. 1760, leaving part of her fortune to Lord George Sack- ville, afterwards Ccermaine) con- tains a piece of tapestry worked at Mortlake, after a pietm-e by Van- dyck, consisting of portraits of him- self, and of Sir Francis (Jrane, Master of tlie Tapestry Works. The bed- stead is ancient. In the Dressing- room arc — Sir Walter Eakigh, in armour ; George Villiers, first Duke of Bucking] lain ; Anne Countess of Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery (who wrote the well-known lettei' to Secretary Williamson), and her first husband the third Earl of Dorset, Jansen. The fnrnitiu-e of the Spangled Bedroom was presented l)y James I. to Lionel Crantield, Earl of IMiddle- sex. A curious ebony cabinet sliould be remarked. The jnctures here are copies, and very indiifereut ones. In the Billiard-room and Leicester Gallery are — Sir Thomas More, after Holbein. Sir Kenelm Digby, Van- dych — a masterly portrait (in a ditferent attitude from the portrait of Sir Kenelm at Windsor, by the same great master), with great depth of colour and elaborate finish. James I. and his son Prince Henry, both painted at Knole, Mytens. Philip IV. of Spain and his Queen. James Marquis of Hamilton (a duplicate, and not a good one, of the Marquis by Mytens at Hampton Court) ; Molino, the Venetian ambas- sador, Mytens. Henry Howard, Earl of Surrev (the poet), tetat. '2!), whole length, after Holbein (V). This is a copy of the Duke of Norfolk's i)ic- ture at Arundel, engraved in Ijodge. 108 Route G, — Knole — Pictures. Sect. I. Frederic King of Boliemia and his daughter the Princess 8o])hia, an- cestress of tlie present royal liuuily, copies after Honthorst (V). In tlie lidcester Gallery are portraits of Lionel Crauiield, Earl of Middlesex, " the citizen who came to he Lord Treasvu'er, and, was very near coming to be hanged " ( Walpole), and others of his family. "His lady, a bouncing- kind of lady mayoress, looks pure awkward among so much good com- pany.'- — Walpole. The Venetian Bedroom remains as it was fitted up for the ambassador Molino, after whom it is named. The toilet-table and mirror-frame are of silver. Here is a portrait of Catherine II. ofEussia, in a soldier's red iniiform, given by lier to Lord Whitwortli. In the Dressing-room are — Miss Axford, tlie fair Quakeress, by Reynolds ; and a good portrait by Gain^orough. The Organ-room contains an an- cient instriunent, which was used for divine service by opening a window communicating witli the chapel. In the Ante-room to the chapel an interesting specimen of wood-carving is placed. It repre- sents the Crucifixion, and consists of more than 20 figures, admirably executed. It belonged to ]Mary Queen of Scots, and was given by her to Eobert second Earl of Dorset previous to her execution. The doors of this room and several others are still covered with old tapestry, fastened back 1)y hooks on eacli side to allow of passing. The Chapel is Peq)., erected by Abp. Boucliier. It has a good Perp. E. windov/. The roof is modern. Beneatli is a vaulted crypt, partly bricked up. The Ball-room, witli panelled walls, surmounted ])y a curious carved frieze and stuccoed roof, is filled with family portraits, chiefly whole-lengths. Those most worthy of notice are — Edward, fourth Earl of Dorset, celebrated for his fatal duel with Lord Bruce of Ivinloss, and his gallantry in the cause of Charles I., Vandyck ("unusually red in the flesh tones, otherwise painted witli great mastery" — Wuagen); Jolin Frederic third Duke of Dorset, Eeynolds (" one of liis interior works") ; and Lord George Sackville, Gainsborough (very good : " Of very animated conception, particularly clear colouring, and careful execu- tion' — Waageii). 'I'he Crirnson Draicing-room con- tains the best ijictm-es in the house ; nearly all deserve notice. Maiy Queen of Scots, Zucchero (?). A Kiding Party, Wouvermans — an ex- cellent specimen of the master. Count Ugolino in Prison (Dante, 'Inferno,' canto 33), the masterpiece of Sir Joshua Beyuolds. Henry VIII., Holbein. " Careful, and in a warmer tone than usual." — Waagen. A Holy Familv, (SW^oo/ of Rafaelle, Ferinodel Vugd (?). TheWise'Men's Otfering, MazzoUno da Fcrrara. Frances, wife of the fifth Earl, Vandyck. " Of great elegance." Judith, with the Head ofHolofernes, Garofolo. " The expression of each head noble ; the careful execution broad and free." — Waagen. A lit ad, said to he by Bafaelle, and good, but certainly not his own portrait. Eo- Innetta, an actress, with a dog's head peeping over her shoulder ; Portrait of Madame Schindlerin, a singer; the Gipsy Fortune-teller ; the Child Samuel ; all four excellent pictures by Eeynolds. Tlie Samuel has a very strong feeling of IMuiillo. The Por- trait of INIadame Bucalli, a dancer, also by Eeynolds, is not so good. Holy Family, Titian. Holy Family, with St. Jerome (in a cardinal's habit) and St. Francis ; a good copy of an early Eaffaelle in tjie Berlin Museum. Virgin and Child, with St. John (the design by Michael Angdo), Andrea del Sarto, a remark- able picture, and in excellent pre- Kent. Iloute 6. — Knole. — The Wilderness. 109 servation. Portrait of a Cliincse Youth, who was at school in Seveii- oaks, Beynolds. A Sibyl, Domvni- cliiiio, strongly resembling the Stowe picture, now belonging to the Mar- quis of Hertford. A Country Merry- making. "Attractive for its lively action, delicate and cool tones, and spirited treatment." — Waagen. A Guard-roum, with the Deliverance of 8t. Peter ; " an excellent pic- ture." Both by Teniers. The Duke of Cleveland, Sir P. Lely ; Laud- scape, Nicliolas Benjliem. The Cartoon Gallerij contains copies of six of the cartoons of Eaf- faelle at Hampton Court, by Mijtens, but of no great excellence. Here is a very good portrait of tlie Eurl of Albemarle, with a page, by Dohson ; and a full-length of George IV., by Lawrence. The fnrnitm'e of this room is very splendid ; remark es- pecially the inlaid chair of tlie first Earl of Dorset, Lord Iligli Trea- surer. An ancient trunk, bound and studded with brass, shoidd also be noticed. The sconces and fire-dogs are of silver, but the ricliest display of silver is in the adjoining cliamber, Tlie King's Bedroom, so called because fitted up as it now is for James I. The silver toilet-service, however, is an addition of the year 1743. Over the fireplace is a fine picture by Janscn, interesting his- torically, of the 3 brothers Coligny, including the Admiral, miu-dered on St. Bartholomew's night. The Dining-room is hung with an extensive collection of portraits of literary men, "proix'r enougli in that house," says Walpole, " for tlie first Earl wrote a play (' Gor- boduc,' acted before Elizabt'th in 1.561), and tlie last was a poet, and, I tiiink, married a ])Iayer." Many of tile persons iTprcsented here, as Dryden, Pope, Prior, Wycherley, Congreve, Killigrew, D'Urfey, ac- tually met round tlie table of Charles, tlie last and witty Earl of Dorset, wlio did not marry a player, though he lived tor some time with Nell Gwynne. Kemark Cowh y and Ito- cliester, by Du Bois. Waller and Addison by Jarvis. Locke, Hobbes, Newton, Sir Charles Sedley, Dryden, and Betterton, by Kneller. Vandyck and Sir Francis Crane, Vandycl;. Ileyuolds (" remarkable for warm and clear colouring, and careful carrying out ") ; Garrick "(very cha- racteristic ; the clasjied hands are admirable"^ — • Waugen) ; Goldsmith, Mrs. Abingdon the actress, Saceliini the composer, and Dr. Johnson with- out Jiis wig (a duplicate of tlie Duke of Sutlierland's picture), Bcynolds. Handel, Denner; careful and delicate. Burke, Opie. Otway, Kneller (V). Garth, Eowe, Wycherley, and Con- greve, after Kneller. Gay, Bolt. Ben Jonson, the original by Hon- tJiurst of the head engraved by Vertue. Portrait of himself (" Of clever arrangement and careful finish"), Dohson. Katherine Phillips (tlie matchless Orinda). Cartwright the poet, Ben Joiisou"s " sou." Beau- mont and Fletcher. Tom D'Urfey. Swift, after the head by Jervas in the Bodleian. Sir Walter Scott, I'll ill ijjs. Tlie I'ark of Knole, always open to the public, contains 1000 acres, and is 5 m. in circuit. The grountl is well varied, and many of the trees are of great age and size. It abounds in det r. " I'he park is sweet," wrote Walpole, "with much old beech, and an immense sycamore before the great gate, which makes me more in love than ever with sycamores." The remoter slopes especially, with their deep carpeting of fern, their scattered hollies, and oak copses, are full of attraction for the landscape painter. Almost adjoining the Park of Knole, N., is The Wilderness (Mar- quis Camden). The park is fine, and from a hill on tiie S. sich} a noble view is commanded. The 110 IiQute 6. — Ightham. — WrotJiain. Sect. I. tourist .should also ascenil Lie H>U, to wliicli a lane leads 1. ol'Sevcuoaks Church, ayd Blorant's Court Hill, generally corrupted to Madum's Court Hill, on the old London road, which commands a wider and finer prospect than that seen from the present Loudon road in entering the town. The view over the Valley of Tunhridge and the Weald, ohtained from all these hills, will not readily be forgotten. In the neighbourhood of Seven- oaks are Montreal (Lord Andierst) ; Klpp'nujton Park (Colonel Austen) ; Ashgrove (Alexander Glendining, Esq.); Beeclimont Park (Wra. Lam- barde, Esq.); and Chart Lodge (Lord jNIonson). Tlie drive to Tunbridge (7 m.) from Sevenoaks is very pictiux'sque, the road gradually descending the ridge of the sandstone into the Weald country and the " Vale of Ilolnisilale, Never conquei"'d — never shall ;'' — the inhabitants of which claim to be called specially " the Men of Kent " (see Swanscoinhe, lite. 2). The views over the Weald, after gaining the high ground S. of Sevenoaks, are magidficent. The lofty tower seen E. of Tunbridge is attached to Hndlow Castle (A. B. May, Esq.). About 4 m. from Sevenoaks, 1., is Biver Hill, lately the seat of the poet Rogers. Just above, and be- fore reaching it, the tourist should proceed 100 yards along a road 1., for the sake of tlie view over the Weahls of Kent and Sussex. On the rt., entering the park, remark the two " alle'es " cut in the beech-woods. An omnibus runs twice a day from Sevenoaks to the station at Tun- bridge. An interesting arehajological ex- ciu-sion may be made from Seven- oaks to Ljlttham and Wrotham, re- tm-ning by Flaxtole and The Moat. This will be a good day's work. On this road, about 2 m., adjoin- ing the park of the Wilderness, is Seal Ciiurch, witli portions ranging from E. E. to Pcri)., and not without in- terest. Brass in chancel : Sir Wil- liam de Bryene, 1395— a very early example of tlie tilting helmet, with crest and mantling, placed luider the head as a pillow. At Oldhernj Hill, on Ightham Common, a little beyond Crown Point, where the road bends south- ward, is a very large intrenchment of an irregular form, and enclosing about 137 acres. The vallum is single ; and a covered entrance may bo traced on tlic S. side. Toward the centre are two springs of water. On the brow of the hill a cave is said to exist, of which the greater jiart has been filled by siidving of the earth. A Roman vicinal way seems to have crossed the parish here, the course of wliicli is marked by such Jiamrs as Stone Street and Oldhorough ; Init the camp can hardly have been formed by the legionaries, and is very probably one of the " oppida sylvis miniita " which Cajsar found existing on his tirst visit to Kent. Tlie C'inreli of Ightham, 1 m. be- yond, has been greatly modernised, but contains some Dec. portions of interest. A])ove the Perp. eastern window the frames of two very small Norm, ones are visible. In the N. wall of the chancel is an effigy dating from the early part of the 14th centiu'y, atlrilmted to Sir Thomas Cawne. Hideous 17th cen- tirry monuments, for Selbys of the Moat, disfigure the S.E. angle. Brass : Sir Richard Clements, circ. 1.530. The tourist may shorten his day's work 1)y ]iroceeding from here at once to The Moat, which lies in the S. part of the parish, about 2 m. KE>fT. Route 6. — Plaxtole — The Moat. n\ from Iglitliam, nnd tliencc rcinming to Seveuoaks. Coiitimiiug the longer excursion, liu will rtat-li, 2^ ni., Wrotham Church, partly E. E.(nave, pitrs, and arches), but of no very high interest. There are many brasses — Thomas Nysell and family, 1498 ; Tlmmas Peokliam and family, 1512; Reynold Peekliam and wife, 15Ho ; John f^undreet, rector, 1-12G. An old mansion IS. of the ell. (brick with stone dressings) should be noticed. Wrotham was granted by Athelstane to the see of Canterbmy; and the arehl)iBhops had very early a palace here, the greater part of which was pidled down by Abp. Islip, temp. Edw. III., in order to finish his palace at Maid- stone with the niati rials. The manor was subsequently resigned to the king by Cranmer. Of the pa- lace, wliicli stood E. of the ch., there are very scaiity traces. At Blacksole Field, in this parish, Sir Robert Southwell, sheriff of Kent, and Lord Abergavenny, routed the Islcys and their party, who were engaged in Sir Tliomas Wyatt's re- bellion in the first year of Queen Mary. Wrotham Hill, in the chalk range (the North Do^vns), 1 m. be- yontl the village, commands a superb view over the rich tree-shadowed country S. From Wrotham you may either proceed by Addington and Mailing to Maidstone (11 m., see Rte. 5), re- turn to Seveuoaks by Kempsing and Otford (see post. Exclusion N. from Seveuoaks), or, as at first proposed, turn S. to Plaxtole, 3^ m., having 1. the great masses of the Hurst woods, which stretcli np behind Mereworth. The Church of Plaxtole dates from 1G49, and is of no interest ; but 1 m. N.E. is Sore Place, when; is an early Dec. house well deserving a visit. (Inquire for " Old Shore Farm,'' a modern house having been joined to the ancient one.) The date of Sore Place is about PJOO {Hudson Turner). It is of tv>'0 stories, the plan consist ing of an oblong buililing running neai'ly E. and W., witli two lessi r ones attached to the N.E. and N.W. angles. The groimd-tloor of the larger building is vaulted. Remark the mere loops serving as wind(_)ws on tliis Hoor throughout tlie building, indicating the iuscciuity of the times. At the foot of the stair in the S.W. angle is a door whicli now affords access to the modern part of the house, biit whicli may originally have oiieucd into a porch. The principal room alwve has a fireplace, tlie ja-mlw of which are mutilated. The tracery is gone from the win- dows, of wliich there is one at each end, and a smaller one on each side of the fireplace. The roof is appa- rently original. The upper stories of the two pro- jecting buildings are entered from this room. That at the N.E. angle was probably the chapel, since a piscina remains in its S. wall. The room at the N.W. angle is lighted by foiu' cross loops, "and may have been eonstri;cted partly with a view to d( fence, as it effectually flanks two sides of the building." — Hudson Turner. The manor of Sore belonged to the family of Colepeper luitil the reign of Elizabeth, Walter de Cole- peper having died possessed of it, 1st Edw. III., long Ijefore which the present house must have been erected. 1 m. W. of Plaxtole ch. lies the Mont (Ca])tain Lound), the earliest portions of which date from Edward II. The house is one of very great interest, being one of the most en- tire specimens remaining of the ancient moated " manor," such as figures so often in the knightly his- tories of the Round Table. Like its brethren of romance, the Ightham Moat-house lies sleeping in the midst of fliiek woods, which you may rc- people at will witli sucli marvels as 112 Route 6. — Sundrulge. Sect. T. Sir Tri.stnim or Sir Pcrcival were wont to encounter in similar situa- tions. The broad moat is fed from a neigldjouring rivulet, which, it has been conjectm-ed, formed here a small island or eijte, whereon the building was originally erected, and which thus gave name to the whole parish — Iglitham, Ejirhani, the "hamlet of the eyte." The plan of the Moat is a quad- rangle, the walls of which rise at once fi'onr the water. It is of three distinct iseriods — the first of Edward II. ; the second of Henry VII. and the beginning of Henry VIII. ; the third of Elizabeth and James I. The hall Ijelongs to i\\G first period. Remark tjie central stone arch, which rtsendjles those of Mayfield in Sussex. The moiddings are Dec, and differ in no respect from those of the other princiiJals, which are of wood. The doorways are also ori- ginal. The fireplace and windows temp. Hen. VIII. Other portions of the first period are — a room with a groined vault and a window looking into the moat, and a chamber over it called the "old chapel." Of the second period the most interesting portions are, the gateway-tower, with the gateway itself and its wooden doors ; and especially the cliapd, upstairs — " a very perfect and inte- resting example of the domestic chapel of tliat period." — /. II. Parker. Tlie original painted ceil- ing, with numerous liadges of Henry VIII., remains. Tiie pulpit and benches are also unaltered. The third, or Elizabethan work, consists mainly of the large quadrangle out- side the moat, entirely built of timber, and containing the stables, in which there is said to have been room f(ir :{00 liorses. The ]\Ioat belonged to the family of De Haut, from a period before the reign of Henry II. until the end of that of Henry VII. ; with an in- termission duruig thi", reign of Eichard III., when the estate was confiscated, Eicliard De Haut having joinid the party of the Earl of liiclnnond. It sulisequently passed through many difierent hands tt) the Selbys of Northumberland, temp. Eliz., one of whom, dying without issue, " for the sake of the name," gave it to "Mr. George Sell)y of London," temp. CJias. I., in whose family it continued until quite re- cently. En)m tlie Moat, a pleasant drive of 4 m. brings us back to Sevenoaks. Wesferham, C| m., may be visited from Sevenoaks. The road is hilly, with occasional pietm-esque views over a richly wooded coiuitry. Tlie Ciuu-ch oi' iSiiiidridge, 4 m., is E. E. with considerable additions, mainly Perp. It has been lately refitted with open seats of carved oak. Br((sses : Roger Isley, 1429 ; and three others, without names or dates. On a Perp. altar-tomb are stone etfigies of a man and woman, said to be those of John Isley and wife, d. 1484. The beautiful churchyard of Sundridge will not be unnoticed. In it is the tomb of Bp. Porteus, who lived and died here. The Isleys of Sundridge Place, S. of the ch., were active in the rising of Sir Thomas Wyatt in the 1st year of Queen Maiy ; and their estates in consequence were forfeited for a time. Their old house has entii-ely disappeared. At Brnsted, 1 m., is a patched ch. of various dates ; the interior mainly E. E. Remark the porch with ribbed roof, formed in the central buttress on the W. side of the tower. Both here and at Sundridge are paper-mills on the stream of the Darent. In the neigh- bourh(^od are Brasted Parli (William Ke^'T. Route 6. — Westerham. — Squerries Parh, 113 Tipping, Esq., once the retreat of Louis Najjoleon), Hill Park (Lonl Norbnry), and Cliipstead, an orna- mental village, the cottages in which were built by - Perkins, Esq., whose handsome residence contains a first- rate library, and is surrounded by beautiful gardens and a noble pine- tum. liT m. fm-ther brings us to Wester- liam (Pop, of tlie parish, 3000), a small town stretching along the foot of the chalk hills, and very plea- santly situated. The Clturch is almost throughout late Perp. Brasses : William Stace, 2 wives and 15 children, 1566 ; Jolm Cliristc, 1567. At the vicarage are preserved some other brasses, removed dm-ing repairs effected some years since ; more, however, are to be desired, since above the present ceiling an open carved roof is said to exist. In the ch., over the S. entrance, is a memorial for General Wolfe, tlie con- queror of Queltec, born in Wester- ham, Jan. 2, 1727. " Whilst George in sorrow bows his laurell'd head," runs the inscription, the men of Westerham " AVith huml)le grief inscribe one artless stone, And from thy matchless honours date our own." Other celebrities of Westerham are Hoadly, Bp. of Winchester, born here in 1676 ; whose famous controversy with William Law is better remembered than the long- ckawn sentences in which he sup- ported it — " Swift for closer stylo, But Hoadly for a period of a mile ; " — and Fryth, tlie companion and fellow laljourer of Tyndale, born at Westerham in 1503. His father was afterwards an innkeeper at Sevenoaks. Frytli's writiTigs are said to have been instnuuental in the conversion of Granmer, who had previously condenintd him. Tlie view from the E. side of the churchyard, where a seat has been fixed, should not be missed. It embraces much of the road by which the totu-ist will have come from Sevenoaks, besides a wide ex- tent of rich and most pietm-esquely varied country. At CJiarfs EiJrie, on tlie range of sandstone hills S.E. of the town, some quarries of Kentish rag liave lately been opened, a visit to which will jirove interest- ing to the geologist. The modern Gothic house on the top ot tlie liill, and commanding fine vitws, is the residence of the Eev. Thomas Strcatfeild. The walk may he con- tinued from here to Crocliham H/U, about 1 m. W. and close above the road from the Edcnbridge Station to Westtrham. The view over the 3 counties, Kent, Sun-ey, and iSussex, ranks deservedly higli among the many wide panoramas obtained in this neighbourhood. Close to Westerham is Squerrits Park (Charles Warde, Esq.). The Darent rises not far from the back of the liousc of Squerries, and at once becomes a strtam of some im- portance. Its course, from this point to its junction with the IMt dway near Dartford, is 30 m. in length, passing through some very beautiful coun- try ; and it still has the re pulation, as when in Spenser's days it attendi d tlie marriage of the Thames and ]\I( dway, of being one of the bi.st trout-streams in Kent : — " the still Parent, in whot^e waters clean Ten thousand fi>hcs play, and deck his pleasant stream.'' N. from Sevenoaks an excursion of mucli interest may be made in the direction of Dartford. From Farn- iiigJiam, 8 m. from Sevenoaks, a coach 11^ Route 6. — Otford. — Shoreham. — LuUingstone. Sect. T. starts even- afternoon to meet the in the clim-chvard ^yas much rever- traiu at Dartford, 5 ni. enced bj' the' peasantry, St. Edith On this road, at Offorcl, 3^ m., ' " - - - close to the chm-cli, are the ruins of the archiepiscojjal palace, rebuilt by Abp. Warliam, temp. Hen. VIII., at a cost of 3:i,000Z. A tower and tlic cloistered side of the oiiter court are the only portions remaining. These are of brick with stone dressings. The manor was gTauted to the see of Canterbm-y by Offa of IMcrcia in 791 ; and was resigned to the crown by Cranmer. The pleasant situation, at the foot of the chalk hills, and the large iiai-ks and woods adjoining, rendered Otford one of the most favourite of the 16 archiepiscopal l^alaces. Abp. Becket supplied" it with water, which, according to tlie local legend, it Avanted until he struck his staff into the gnniud, thereby calling forth the spring which still feeds St. Thomas's Well, close to the ruins. The saint is also said to have used this sirring as a bath. The water is still thought to be of powerfid virtue, and is re- sorted to as a cm-e for various ail- ments. Abp. Winchelsea died at tlie Ijalace here in 1313. The Church was rebuilt about 2 cents, ago, and is of little intirest. The pillars dividing the nave from the aisles are of wood ; and there is a monument to Charles Polhill, Esq., of great local celebrity from its con- taining " seven different kinds of marble." The shrine of St. Bar- tholomew here anciently enjoyed considerable reputation from the as- sistance it afforded to such ladies as desired to become " as all must wish to bo who love their lords." [About 1 m. E. of Otford is Kem- sincj, with a small and much-patched church, containing a half-length brass of Thomas de Hop, circ. 1315. It is dedicated to St. Edith, a local saint saiil to liave l)een born here. She .still patronizes a well toward the centre of the village, and her image having succeeded the more ancient " Dii Agrestes " as— " breather round the farms, To keep off mildew, and all weather harms."] Along the line of hills above Ot- ford and the village of Kemsing runs the " Pilgrims' Koad," a veiy ancient trackway, which, wliatevtr may have been its origin, was that along which the pilgrims from the S.W. districts advanced toward Canterbury. (See Chariug, Ete. 8.) Here, as else- where, it avoids tlie inhabited coun- try as much as jjossible, keeping at some little distance from the towns and villages. From Otford the road follows tlie course of the Darent, between the clialk hills which rise on either side of the river. The Chiu'ch of Shorehmn, 1 m., offers notliing wliich need delay the tourist. Shon'hain Place, however CH. St. Jolm Mildinay, E.scpX a modern house, very 2^1easantly situ- ated, contains some interesting pic- tures, mostly of the Dutch school, and formerly in tlie gallery of Baron Verstolk at the Hague. The greater part of the collection is in Mr. Mild- may's London residence ; but in the library at Slioreham are Landscape with waterfall, Jan Both; fine. A. large landscape, Isaac van Osfade. A remarkable picture, .signed, by Jan 2-an der Heijdvn. An Interior, Peter de Hoixilie. Small landscape. Arias rau der Neer ; very good. Land- scape, Hachert. In another room are two pictures b)^ Srnjders, — a fight between wolves and dogs, and another between dogs and bears. 2 m. further, 1., is Shoreham, or old Lidliii(istone Castle. A farm-house, 1. of the road, marks the site. Some fragments of the ancient stronghold still remain. This castle, which has Kent. Route 7. — Reigate Junction to Dover. 115 no historical interest, was held tinder the Abps. of Canterbury. There is a public footpath througli the beautiful park of the present LuUingsfoue Cudle ( Sh- Percival Hart Dyke, Bart.). The honse lies low, in a valley between the chalk hills, and, althoug'ii some portions are an- cient, the greater jjart dates from the end of the last century, when it was much altered and added to. Close adjoining is tlie Church, which should be visited for the sake of some IGtli cent, monuments of tJie Peche and Hart families, mmsually rich and good. The best are — Sir George Hart and wife, d. 1587 ; Sir Percival Hart, S. of tlie main chancel, d. 1580 ; and Sir John Peche, between tlie main and the N. chancels, d. 31st Hen. VIII. There are some later tombs of less interest. Brass: Sir William Peche, 1487. The cluu-ch was " repaired and beautified " by Percival Hart, Esq. (d. 1788). There are some ti-agments of stained glass of Dec. character, and a good oaken chancel screen. LuUingstone passed liy marriage from tlie Peclies to the" Harts, to- ward the end of tlie reign of Henry VIII., and, in 1738, again by mar- riage, to the Dykes of Sussex, in which family it still remains. Close beyond LuUingstone Park is Eynsford (see lite. •>), and 1 ni. fur- ther Farninghaiii (Kte. 2), whence a coach starts daily for the station at Dart ford, 8 m. [2 m. E. of Farningham is the little church of Kmgsdoivn, in wliicli are some fra,gments of stained glass, of the later half of tlie 14th "cent. The building itself is very plain, and without distinctive character.] r.()UTE 7. REIGATE JUNCTION TO DOVER. (^South-Eastern Railwaij,^ Leaving the Eed Hill Station, the line sweeps gently round in the direction of Kent, and continues as straight as a Roman road nearly as far as Tunbridge. For the jjoiuts of interest on cither side of the railway as far as the Godstone station, see Handbook fur Siirreij, cf-e. 2 m. beyond it we enter the county of Kent. 1 ni. further we reach, 3H m. from Loudon, Edcnhridge. The Church at Edeubridge, ori- ginally attached to Westerham, has some Norm, portions. Brass, John Selyard, 1558. [om. from the station, and partially seen from the rail on rt., is Hevnr Castle, interesting from its associa- tions with Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn, and quite as much so from its affording an excellent specimen of tlie later castellated mansion. The walk to it, across the fielels from Edeubridge, is a pleasant one. The eastle, which stands close by the river, forms a quadrangle of mo- derate size, with high-pitched roofs and gables, and is surrounded by a double moat, fed from tlie Eden. A gatehouse, strongly portcuUised, and a very carious example of ancient defensive arrangements, leads into 116 Route -ITcver Castle and ChurcJi. Sect. I. the open court. One room in the gatehouse lias been recently titted up. The rest of the building is occupied as a farmhouse, but the old arrangements liave been very- little altered. The rooms are pa- nelled with oak, and the chamljer (now hung with a modern paper, and inhabited) is shown in which Anne of Cleves died. The rooms calh'd Anne Boleyn's are at tlie N.W. corner ; none of the furniture, liow- ever, is of her time, nor of any great antiquity. There is the usual gallery in the roof of the N. front, and in the staircase window is some stained glass with the arms of Boleyn, Butler, and Howard. The wooden stables, with the sleeping apartments above, are very curious, and should be noticed. They are not later than the 15th cent. Fronting them is an oi^en gallery, overlooking the castle bowl- ing-green. An earlier Castle was rebuilt, temp. Edw. III., by Sir William Hevre of Hevre, near Northtieet, whose co-heir carried it to the Jjords Cobliam of Sterborough. It was bought by Sir (xeoffrey Boleyn, mercer, and Lord Mayor 37 Hiu. VI., who began the present castle (the older building being apparently in a ruined state), which was completed by his grandson. Sir Thomas, fatlier of Anne Boleyn, and afterwards Earl of Wilts. It is uncertain whether Anne Boleyn was born at Hever ; but she was certainly educated here, im- der the care of her French " gouver- nante," Simonette, before she went to France in tlie train of the Princess Mary ; and here subserpiently the king often visited her during the troubled years of his courtship. Her first meeting with Henry after her re- turn from France is said to have taken place in the Castle gardens. Several of Henry's letters are addressed to her here. " In order to remind you of my affection," he writes, " and be- cause I cannot be in your presence. I send you the thing which comes nearest that is possible, that is to say my picture, and tlie whole device, which you already know of, set in bracelets, wishing myself in their place when it pleases von.'' On the death of the Earl of W'iltslnre Henry seized the estate and granted it for life to his repudiated wife Anne of Cleves, who died here. Queen Slary gave it to the AValdegraves, and it was sold in 17-1.5 to Sir T.Waldo, with whose descendants it now remains. Hever Church, adjoining, is for the most part Dec., the" Boleyn Chapel being late Per[i. In the "S. wall of the tower is an arch with ogee canopy, under Avhich is fixed an inscription, taken from a slab in the pavement below, for John de Coldiam, 1399. In the Boleyn Chantry, on an altar tomb, is the fine brass of Sir Thomas, Anne Boleyn's father (d. 1538). Other Brasses are — Margaret Cheyne, 1499 (good) : and Will'fam Todde, 15S5. A small inn in the village exhibits the figure of Henry YIII. as a sign. A traditionary saying, that " .lesus Christ was never but once at Ilever, And then he fell into the river," perhaps alludes to the deep mud of the ancient roads. There is a French proverb whicli describes such " foul ways " as roads " oil le bon Dieu ne pent passer par I'hiver." TJiat the Hever roads were fully equal in depth of mire to those of Sussex or the Weald aj^pears from a tradition which asserts that Henry used often " to stick in the mud " as he drew near the place after nightfall ; wljen he would )>lowhis liorn and summon tlie inmates of the Castle with torches to his assistance. Tlie scenery about Hever is jilea- sant, tliough not equal to that nearer Pensliurst. On tlie sandhills be- tween the Castle and Chiddingstone tradition asserts tliat watclimen were stationed, " to announce by sound of Kent. Route 7. — Chiddingstone. — Penshurst. 117 bngle the approach of King Henry to Mistress Anue, as, galloiiiug from Eltham and Greenwich, he de- scended the hills opposite." 1 m. E. of Hever is Ghkldivgstone, anciently called Higli Street House, the residence of Henry Streatfeild, Esq., whose family have been settled liere since the reign of Henry VIII. The present castellated house is modern. Under the trees on the edge of the park, behind the village, is the so-called " Chiding-stone," said, though very questionaljly, to have given name to the jiarish. It is a large, well-worn mass of sand- stone, about 18 ft. high, and would certainly be no bad out-door " pul- pit" or "judgment-seat," to Miiieli uses tradition has assigned it. Similar masses, however (besides those at Tunbridge Wells), are found through- out all the sandstone district, as at West Hoathley and Hellingley in Sussex — at both which places some sort of tradition is attached to them ; and altliough they may possildy have been used by either Britons or Saxons, the rocks themselves are beyond all doubt in their natural position. Chiddingstone Clnirch is in the village adjoining the park. The Tower is Perp., but the church itself has some Dec. portions. It contains many monuments of the Streatfeilds ; some of them iron slabs resembling those of Sussex. In the neighbourhood is Stonewall Park (E. Meade Waldo, Esq.). There are some picturesque tim- ber houses in the village, including a cjuaiut old inn. Boar Place and BoreshlH in tills parish are said to be so named from the wUd boars which anciently haunted this great forest district.] 37 m. Penshurst Station. 2 m. 1. is Leigh Church. Brasses: John Stace, 1591 ; and a feinale, without name or date, not early, but of unusual character. The half figm-e rises from an altar tomb, within which the body is seen, wrapjied in a shroud. Adjoining is Hall Place (T. P. Bailey, P]sq.). I ni. rt. is Eedleaf (W. Wells, Esq.), celebrated under its late owner for its pictures, the greater jiart of which are now dispersed, and for the beauty of its gardens, which remain. There is still at Eedleaf, however, a most important collection of modern pictures, including Wilkie's famous " Distraining for Eent," and some very fine Landseers. Many of these were exhibited at Mancliester, but are not shown here. The views from the grounds are very striking. Ee- mark tlie picturesque cottages built l)y IMr. Wells near the park gates. A pleasant, tree-shadowed road, 14 m., leads to one of the great Kentish shrines — Pensliurst Place (liOrd de Lisle). The iixed days for seeing the house are Monday and Saturday, but in the absence of the family it is shown at all times. A footway enters the park oppo- site Eedleaf, and from it a fine view is obtained of the grand old house with the village at its back. The building is of varioiis dates and ir- regular plan ; but as the Sidneys invariably placed either an in- scription or an heraldic escutcheon on every new building, the time at which each was erected is ascer- tained with certainty. The air of venerable antiquity which at once impresses the visitor as the grey walls of Penshurst ajipear among their sheltering trees, is thus celebrated by Ben Jonson : — " Thou art not, Penshurst, built to envious show Of touch ormavble; nor canst boast a row Of polish'd pillars or a roof of gold : Thou hast no lantern, whereof tales are told; Or stair, or courts ; but stand'st an ancient pi le. And (these gi'udged at) art reverenced the while. 118 Boute 7. — Pensliurst. Sect. I. Thou joy'st in bettor marks, of soil, of air. Of wood, of water; tlierein thmi art fair. Thou liast thy walks for healtli, as well as sport ; Thv mount, to whicli the Pryads do resort, Wlieii Pan and Bacchus their high feasts have made Beneath the broad beech and the chestnut shade." The N. or main front lias a gate- liouse, temp. Edw. VI. The rest has been hitely rebirilt. Crossing the great coiu't, the picturesque outlines of which will at once attract attention, we first enter the Hall. It was built by Sir John Devereux about 1349, and is perhaps the most ancient of its size remaining in the kingdom. The tracery in the win- dow-heads is of unusual design, and should be compared with tliat at Chartham {Hie. 8), at Leeds Castle {Bte. 5), and in the hall of the arch- bishop's palace at Mayfield in Sus- sex, pod, all nearly of the same date. The open timber roof is of excellent design. The hearth is central, with a ma;ssy brand-iron still remaining. The oak tables should also be noticed. At one end is the Minstrels' Galleiy, supported by a wainscot screen of later date than the hall, but of good design. The bear and ragged staff, the badge of the Dudleys, is frequently re- peated among its ornaments. Among the numerous great per- sonages who have been entertained in tliis hall we may reckon James I., whose unexpected visit gave Jonson an opportunity for praising my Lady Sidney's good housekeeping— " That found King James, when hunting late this way, With his brave son, the prince ; they saw thy fires Shine bright on every hearth, as the desires Of thy Penates had been set on flame To entertain them ; or the country came, AVith all their zeal, to wanii their welcome here. AVhat great, I will not say, but, sudden cheer Did^^tthou lhpn"make them ! and what praise was lieap'd On thy good lady, then ! who therein reap'd The just reward of all her housewifery ; To have her linen, plate, and all things nigh, When she was far ; and not a room but dress'd As if it had e.\pected such a guest ! " Through the screen were the usual communications with kitchen and buttery. The first has been de- stroyed, but there remains at this end of the hall a mass of building of 2 stories of the same date as the hall itself. (/. H. Parker.) At the opposite end of the hall a door leads into the cellar, which is vaulted, with a range of arches down the centre. It is earlier than the hall, and apparently of the 12th cent. The fragments of armour once shown here have been removed to the private apartments. They are the relics of a most noble collection, suits of the Sidneys from generation to generation, which clisappeared about 50 years since : at which time also the greater part of the Sidney correspondence preserved in the Evi- xlence Chamber found its way to the hands of London collectors, under the auspices of the ingenious Mr. Ireland, then a frequent visitor at Peushurst. Among the papers which still remain here, however, are several MS. treatises in the hand- writing of Algernon Sidney. A staircase, refitted, but perhaps not later than the hall, leads to the main suite of 6 rooms. The furni- ture is partly Elizabethan, partly of the last cent. "The apartments," wrote Walpole (1752), "are the grandest I have seen in any of these old palaces. There are loads of por- traits, but most of them seem christ- ened by chance, like chikken at a foundling hospital." The pictures are still numerous, and there are many copies— some few, however, are good, though all are in bad condi- tion, this part of the house being damp and iininhabiled. The most interesting — many of Kent. Route 7. — Fenshurst — Pictures. 119 which, it is understood, are about to be removed to the private apart- ments, — are — Page's Boom. — "Here," writes Walpole, " are four great curiosities ; I believe as ohl portraits as any existing- in England — Fitzalk-n, Abp. of Canterbury; Hamplirey Statibrd, 1st Dulie of IBuckingham ; T. AVent- worth ; and Jolm Foxle — all four with dates of commissions as Constables of Queenborough Castle " (in the I. of Sheppey). "Tiiey are not very ill done. Six more are heads. Sir Edward Hobby, last but one of the Constables, is said to have collected these jjortraits." Jolm Dudley, Duke of Northimiberland, Holbein. Duke of St. Albans, the son of Nell GwjTi. Queen Elizabeth's Room (the fiu-ni- ture of which is said to have been a present from the queen herself). Sir Philip Sidney, aged about 23, reading, with a stafi' of office in his hand, and his armour about him. His sister, Mary Sidnej% Countess of Pembroke (engraved by Lodge), M. Garrard, — " Urauia, sister unto Astrophel, In whose brave mind, as in a golden cofer, All heavenly gifts and riches loiked are ; More rich than pearles of Ynde, or gold of Opher, And in her sex most wonderful! and rare." Spenser. Algernon Sidney, leaning on a book labelled ' Libertas ;" behind are the Tower and the executioner's axe. In the inscription on this picture his name is spelt "Algernoon" — perhaps indicating the manner in which it was then pronounced. The dasli of red in the hair of many of the Sidney portraits may be noticed as confirm- ing the old saying that red-haired per- sons are either very good or very bad. V Le lioux" in this case could be no term of reproach, llobert Dudley, Queen Elizabeth's Earl of Leices- ter : Gerard. Henry Eii-h, Earl of Ilollaud : Vamhjhe. llobert Earl of Leicester, 1G32 : Vandyhe. Philip Ijord Lisle (fine) : 'Vandyhe. Bar- bara Gamage, Countess of Leicester, 159G, and six children ; very curi- ous : artist ludcnown. George III. : Gainsboroiujh. Queen Charlotte : id. Tapestry liooiti. — Edward VI. : Holbein. Sir Henry Sidney, father of Sir Philip. Lady Dorothy Percy, Countess of Leicester, mother of Algernon Sidney, and her sister T^ady Lucy Percy, Countess of Carlisle. Nell G\vyn as Venus : Lely. Tlie Gallery.— Lady Blary Dudley, mother of Sir Philip. Algernon Sidney. Hubert Languet, the friend and correspondent of Sir Philip Sid- ney. Dorothea Sichiey (Waller's Sacharissa): Vandyke. The same Dorothea Sidney as Countess of Sunderland : Husheits. Sir William Sidne}% to whom Penshurst was given by Edward VI : Lucas de Heere. Sir Philip Sidney, and his brother Robert, 1st Earl oi' Leicester of this line ; veiy ctuious and inter- esting. Sir Philip is about 16, the younger In-other 13 or 14. "Sidney's keen look " is very marked in this picture. An ebony cabinet, a present from James I. to the first Earl of Leices- ter, which formerly stood in this gallery, has been removed. Among the other pictures remark a Head of Christ and a IMadonna, attributed to Simone Memmi, 1340; and a Halt of Cavaliers : Wouver- nians. The apartments inhabited by the present familj are in the W. front, but are not shown. Over the porch is a small wains- cot-lined room, of which the panels are well designed. Its oaken book- cases and reading-desks are temp. Jas. I. Besides the great court, the S. side of the hall, and a view in the inner com-t, E. of the Buckingham wing, shoidd be noticed for their 120 Route 7. — Penshurst. Sect. I. fine arcliitectural groupings. In this inner court is a bell, hanging in a wooden frame-work, witli tlie iu- serij>tion, " Robert Earl of Leicester at Penshurst, 1G49." Penshurst owes its chief celebrity to the Sidneys, its latest grantees. As early as Edward I. it was the residence of Sir Stephen de Pen- chester, whose effigy is seen in the church. Sir John Devereux embat- tled the house, 11 Rich. II., and it afterwards passed to the liohuus, Hiunplirey Duke of Gloucester, and the Fanes. 6 Edw. VI. it was granted to Sir William Sidney, who commanded a wing of the army at Flodden, and already had a house in the parish. His son. Sir Henry Sidney, Lord Justice of Ireland, married Mary, daughter and finally heiress of John Dudley, Duke of Northumlierland. Sir Phil/'p Sldneij, their eldest son, is sixpposed to have been born here 24th Nov. 1554. He left only a daughter. His sister Mary, celebrated in the 'Arcadia' and in Jonson's famous epitaph— " Underneath this marble hearse Lies, the subject of all verse, Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother; Death ! ere thou hast slain another, Learn' d, and fair, and "ood as she, Time shall throw a dart at thee," — married Henry Earl of Pembroke. Sir Robert Sidney, Philip Sidney's next brother, was created Viscount Lisle and Earl of Leicester. He died here, 1026, and has a toml) in the church. Robert, 3rd Earl, married Dorothy Percy, and was father of Lorofhij, "Waller's Sacharissa, who married, 1st, Robert Earl of Sunder- land, and 2nd, Robert Smith of Bid1)orough. Her brother was Algernon Sidney, beheaded lG8;->, whose brother, Jocelyn, was 7th and last earl. The estate eventually, by a daughter, passed to the Perrys, whose heiress married Sir Bysshe ShcUey, ancestor of the present possessor, whose father assumed the name of Sidney, and was created Lord de lisle. Anne, a natural daugliter of Earl Jocelyn, married Streatfeild of Chiddingstone, and had the Glamorgan estates which came with Barbara Gamage. This brief sketch will explain most of the inscriptions, arms, and pictures. The scenery of the Fark, once much more extensive, should be ex- plored at leism-e. After long neglect, it is regaining much of its ancient dignity. "The park is forlorn," wrote Walpole : " instead of Saccha- rissa's cijjher carved on the beeches, I should sooner have expected to have found the milkwomau's score." To most visitors Penshurst will now suggest feelings very difterent from those with which Walpole regarded it. The thoroughly English charac- ter of Sir Pliilip Sidney — a character wliich has been more or less dis- played by the nolilest of his fellow- countrymen from the days of the Black Prince to those of lukerman and Delhi, and to which, far more titan to his learning, he is indebted for his lasting reputation, found but little favour at StrawVjerry Hill. (See Walpolc's curious letter to David Humi', July, 1758.) Very differently writes Southey : — "... Tiead As with a pilgrim's reverential thoughts The groves of Penshurst. Sidney here was born. Sidney, than whom no gi'eater, braver man His own delightful genius ever feign 'd Illustrating the groves of Arcady With courteous courage and with loj'al love." If the ' Arcadia ' was not actually written here, many of its descrip- tions may liave been suggested by the surrounding country, which still displays the " accomiianiable soH- tarinesse " so greatly loved by the hero of Zutphen. The picture of Ijaconia might still pass for that of Penshurst and its neighbourhood. "Tliere were hils which garnished Kent. Route -Penshurst. 121 their proud heights with stately trees; humble vallies whose base estate seemed comforted with the refreshing of silver rivers ; medowes enamelled with all sorts of eie-pleas- ing flowers; thickets, which being lined with most pleasant shade were witnessed so too, by the cheerfuU disposition of many well-timed birds : each pasture stored with sheep feed- ing with sober security, while the pretty lambs with bleating oratory craved the dammes comfort : here a shejiheards boy piping, as though hee should never be old; there a yong shepheardess knitting, and withal singing, and it seemed that her voyce comforted her hands to worke, and her hands kept time to lier voice-music. As for the houses of the countrey (for many houses came under their eye), they were all scattered, no two being one by th' other, and yet not so farre off as that it barred mutuall succour; a shew, as it were, of an accompaniable solitarinesse, and of a civill wild- nesse." — Arcadia, lib. i. The best points of view are gained in the line of the long avenue tliat led from Penshurst to Leigh. The scene from a barn near the Leigh end of the avenue should especially be noticed. The venerable beeches of Sacha- rissa's Walk are also to be visited. They are commemorated in Waller's lines : — Ye lofty beeches ! tell this matchless dame That if together ye fed all one flame, It could not equalize the hundredth part Of what her eyes have kindled in my heart ! "Wliile in this park I sing, the listening deer Attend my passion, and forget to fear. When to the beeches I report my flame, They bow their heads, as if they felt the same." And directly in front of the gateway four stunted limes mark the site of Barbara Gamage's Boifer, once a woody coppice praised by Ben Jonson for its never-failing supply of " sea- soned deer." \_Kent & Sussex.'] Bear's Oal; above the large pond called Sancup "Well (and Lineup by the natives), is said to be the tree referred to by Waller — • " Goe, boy, and carve this passion on the bark Of yonder tree, which stands the sacred mark Of noble Sidney's birth " — . . . n d by Ben Jonson, as " This taller tree, of which a nut was set At his great birth where all the muses met'' Near the " lofty beeches " was the heronry of which the colonists are now established at Parham in Sussex. Penshurst Church, which lias l^eeu lately restored, closely adjoins the mansion. It was rebuilt in a debased Gothic ; but some parts of the interior seem portions of the older structure. In the ch. are a part of the effigy of Sir Stephen de Penchester, temp. Edw. I., and some monuments with effigies of the -Sithieys. Brasses: two wives of Watur Draynocott and 7 children, 1507; Paco'le Iden, ISGi ; Margaret Sidney, d. 15.58, infant daughter of Sir Henry, and sister of Sir Philip ; and one imnamed of the 15tli cent. There is also a small brass cross fur "Thos. Bullayen, sou of Sir T. Bullayen :" no date. Built into the interior wall of the tower are two stone cotfiu-lids, found under the N. aisle. One displays in relief the ujiper part of a female figure in tlie attitude of j^i'ayer, clinging to a floriated Greek cross; the face has great expression. On the other cotfin-lid is a floriated Latin cross of elaborate design. The eminent Dr. Hammond was rector here from l(j33 to the sequestration in 1G43, and resided in the present rectory. Sir John Temple had married his sister ; and their son, William Tempk^ the futiu-e statesman, was educated by his uncle at Penshurst until the se- questration, when he was sent to school at Bishop's Stortford. G 122 Route 7. — Taulridfje — Cadle. Sect. T. There arc some old houses in the village worth notice, and the Tun, the Leicester Arms (where carriages may be hired), afl'ords tolerable ac- commodation. ■5 m. N. is South Park (Lord Hardinge). From the hill on which the house stands are fine views toward the ridge of Tunbridge Wells. 41 m. from London we reach Tunbridge (Junction Station). Inn: Eose and Crown. Sevenoaks and Knole (Lady Amherst), 7 m. 1., may be visited from here (see Rte. 6). An omnibus leaves Tunbridge Sta- tion for Sevenoaks twice during the day. The drive is a vti'y beautifid one. 1. is the branch to Tnnhridije Welh, 5 m. (see Sussex). Tuuljridge is built on ground rising from the banks of the Medway, wliieh here divides into several branches and winds round toward the N. The spire of St. Stephen's, a modern Dee. ch., first catches the eye on leaving the station. The Checquers Inu, in the High Street, is an excellent specimen of an old Kentish timbered house. I'here are man}' others of similar character. Adjoining the principal bridge over the Medway is the chief manufactory of Tunbridge ware, the best siieci- mens of which find their way to Tunbridge Wells. At the end of the town is the (rrammur School, founded in 1553 by Sir Andrew Judd, a native of Tunbridge, who bequeathed lands for its support in trust to tlie Skin- ners" Com})any. The revenues are now very considerable. 1(3 exhibi- tions, of 100/. ii-year each, are at- tached to this school, tenable at either University, besides 12 others of lesser value. Among the remark- able scholars was Sir Sidney Smith, of Syrian reputation. Of tiie build- ing itself, tlie centre is as olil as the foundation ; tlie 2 whiKs are modern. Tlie arms on tlie front are those of Sir Andrew Judd (the boars" heads) and tiie Skinners' Comjiauy (fleurs-de- lys). From the playground there is a very good view over the surround- ing country. The Church, large and old, has been sadly disfigured. It was granted bv Roger de Clare, temp. Hen. II., to the Knights Hospitallers. The tower and nave are l)ec. with some Perp. additions. The chancel has on either side two small round- headed windows, high in the wall, which luaij lie early Norm. Within are mutilated effigies of Sir Anthony Denton and wife, temp. Jas. I. ]\Iany de Clares were mterred here, l)ut have no memorials remaining. The Castle stands on the Medway, near the entrance of the town. It is shown. The entrance is across a filled-up moat and through a noble gate-tower of great size and tolerably I)erfect. Note the excellence of the masonry ; the durability of the very soft stone ; the holes for the pivots of the drawbridge, much higher than usual; the extraordinary number of perforations in the vault ; on the 1. a piscina marking the entrance to a chapel ; above, the state-room, with large and handsome windows ; and generally, the various mould- ings and enrichments, rare in castel- lated buildings, and showing this to be of the Eaily Dec. period, 1280- 1:500. Beyond the gate-tower is the inner ward; 1., beyond the modern house, is a wall with fragments of Norm, and E. E. work ; and forming a part of the enceinte of this ward is the so-called Norman Mound, on which stood the keeji, covering an acre, 100 ft. above the river, and 70 above the court. On its top is a shell of wall which may be Norm. A walk leads from this mound, along a thick curtain wall, to the upper story of the gate-tower. Under this curtain is an arch, which seems to have been Kent. Route 7. — Tunhridge — Hadlow — Somerhill. 123 a water-gato, by means of which boats could be brought from the Medway, along the moat, into the inner ward. Tlie arrangement is peculiar and deserves examinatioia. The keep-mound was probably the work of Kichard Fitzgilbert, who acquired the estate in exchange with Abji. Lanfranc, and established a jurisdiction over the " leuca " or " lowy " of Tunhridge. The later earls added the gate-tower, and dug the outer moats, which include or 7 acres. The descendants of Fitzgilbert assumed the name of De Clare, and the castle descended with the other estates of that great house to the Audleys and Statfords. It was for- feited by the Dvikc of Buckingham to Eichard III., and afterwards at various times regranted to Cardinal Pole, Dudley Duke of Northumber- land, and Carey Lord Himsdon. It is now the property of Jerningham Lord Statford, a rej)resentative of its ancient owners. The Castle was besieged and taken by Henry III. before the battle of Lewes ; Gilbert de Clare, its then owner, having joined the party of the barons. His ancestor, Richard de Clare, was one of the chief oppo- nents of Kmg John. The lords of Tunhridge were here- ditary chief butlers and stewards of the Abps. of Canterbury, and at- tended their enthronization feasts in great state. At their termination they claimed the right of remaining three daj^s in one of the Archbp.'s manors " ad sanguinem minuen- dam," — a process looked forward to as necessary after the streams of liippocras and malvoisie set flowing in the hall at Canterbury. The earls, however, may have had their own wine-vfits nearer home, for Hasted asserts that a vineyard ex- isted at tlie castle when he wrote, " from wliich cpiantities of exceeding good and well-flavoured wine was produced.'' This was planted by a Mr. Hooker toward the middle of the last century, who, while thus appropriating the enclosure, built the present dwelling-house with part of the ruins. " We honoured the man for his taste," wrote Walpole, who ought rather to have condemned his Vandalism ; " not but that we wished the committee at Strawberry Hill were to sit upon it, and stick cypresses among the hollows. But, alas! he sometimes makes 18 sour hogsheads, and is going to disrobe the ' ivy-inantled tower ' because it harbours birds." The Lowy of Timbridge, 5 m. long, 6 m. wide, surroiuided the castle. In it were two gi-eat chaces, the N. and 8. Frith, well tilled with deer, for the earls' disjiort. Nearly on the site of the railway station was a priory of Premonstra- tensian Canons, founded by Eichard de Clare, temj). Hen. II. Its few re- mains were entirely destroyed during the construction of the line in I8-10. Hadhiiv Church, 2^ m., was at- tached to the preeeptory of Hospi- tallers in West Peckham, the ad- joining parish. In it is a monu- ment for Sir John Eivers and wife, temp. Jas. I. ILidhw Castle (W. B. IMay, Esq.— it is entirely modern) is rendered con- s})ieuous by its lofty prospect tower of stone and Ijrick, seen from the railway, 1., after leaving Tunhridge. SuinerhiU (Huron Goldsmid), 1^ m. rt., a large James I. house, stands in the S. Frith, and was a favourite haunt of the courtiers during the visits of Charles II. to Tunl)ridge Wells. It was then the property of Lady Muskerry, the " Baliylonian Princess " of Grammont's Memoirs. The house was built 1624 by Eichard Burgh, Earl of Clarence and Baron Somerhill. An earlier mansion here bad belonged to Sir Piiilip Sidney, and afterwards to Queen Elizabeth "s Earl of Leicester; and the present 12-t Route 7. — Somerhill. — Yalding. — Nettlested. Sect I. house was granted by Cromwell to I'resideut Bradsliaw " iu return for bis great service to bis country." " There is now," says Walpole, who made a pilgrimage to Somerhill in 1752, " scarce a road to it. The paladins of those times were too valorous to fear breaking tlieir necks; and I much api:)rehend that ' La Monsery' and the fair Ma- demoiselle Hamilton must have mounted their palfreys and rode l)ehind their gentlemen-ushers upon pillions to the Wells. . . , The Ikjusc is little better than a farm ; but has been an excellent one, and is entire, tboixgh out of repair. ... It stands high, commands a vast landscape beautifully wooded, and has quan- tities of large old trees to shelter itself, some of whiclx might be well spared to open views." Roads and house have alike been restored, and Somerhill is now a most picturesque object from whatever point it comes into sight. The Church of Pembury, 1 m. beyond Somerhill, has some Norm, portioiis. From Timbridge the rail passes through a richly wooded country shut in by distant hills to 46 m. Paddock's Wood. (June. Sta.) A line here branches off, 1., to Maidstone, 11 m., following for tiie greater part of its course the valley of the Medway, here very rich and beautiful. The old turnpike-road from Maidstone to Tunbridge, which runs through the same district (here known as " the Garden of Eden "), used to be called the " finest 10 miles in Enghmd," and, so far as fertility and ricliness of soil are con- cerned, this corner of Kent is perhaps entitled to retain its pre-eminence. " It is a district of meadows, corn- fields, hop-gardens, and orchards of apples, pears, cherries, and filberts ; with very little of any land which cannot be called good with pro- priety. There are plantations of cliesimt and ash; and as these are cut, when long enough, to make l^oles for hops, they are at all times objects of great beauty. From Maid- stone to Slereworth are the finest 7 m. I have seen in this county. The Medway is on your 1., with its meadows about a mile wide. I should think there were hop-gardens one-half of the way on both sides of the road. Looking across the Med- way you see hop-gardens and orchards 2 m. deep on the side of a gently rising ground." — Cohhett. The branch line, after p)assing for 3 m. through a hop-covered plain, reaches Yalding — in Domesday Ealdingen — " a praty townlet," says Leland — standing on the confluence of a stream called the Bewle with the Medway. In the pavement of the cli. are slal)S of a marlile crowded with minute shells, resembling that of Bethersden and foimd in the parish. Bockingfold, in the S. part of the parish, is called by Twine (de Eeb. Albion.) " the forest of Buchius- wald " (Beech-wood), and mentioned as one of the great Kentish woods, iu which wild animals still lingered temp. Eliz. Bnrston, in Hunton parish, E. of Yalding, formerly the seat of the Fanes, but now a farmhouse, com- mands a fine view over the Weald, the range of gault and sandstone hills which form the outliers of the chalk beginning to rise here. The Peip. Chm-ch of Nettlested, 2 ra. W. of Yalding, retains most of its original glazing, that of the chancel being more simple than that in the nave. All the windows have been shifted, however, within recent memory. The stained glass here is very good, and deserves careful notice. That now in the nave (figures under canopies) is of the latter part of the reign of Henry VI. KliXT. Piouti 7. — Wateringhury . — Went PeclJic am. 125 That in the chancel (herakh'y, em- blems, &c.) appears from an inscrip- tion to have been pnt up in 1405. In the E. window are portraits of the donors. The S. windows of the nave were destroyed by a storm. Not far from the ch. are some re- mains of Nettlested Place, the resi- dence of the Pimpe family from the reign of Edward I. It came through heiresses to tlie Scotts, who at the beginning of last century alienated it to the Botelers of Teston. 6 m. Wuteringhnry. The village has been almost entirely rebuilt in the last few years by the late Alderman Lucas, whose family possess Water iiighury Place, and con- siderable property here, purchased from the present Sir Charles Style, Bart., whose ancestors held Water- ingbury from the reign of James I. The present house is a Queen Anne structure. The Church, seen on the high ground 1., is Perp. with an E. E. tower. In the chm-chyard is the monument of Sir Oliver Style, whose marvellous escape from an earth- quake at Smyrna is commemorated in the inscription. He was at dinner witli a large party, including a lady to whom he was engaged, when the earth suddenly yawned, and all perished except Sir Oliver. The Hsitor may seek here for " the dumb })orsholder of Chart," which was carefidly preserved at the beginning of the century. The "dumb bors- liolder " claimed lilterty over fifteen houses within the parish, every householder of which was obliged to pay the borsholder's keeper one I)enny yearly. This kee])er was elected annually. " The dumb bors- holder was always first called at the f'ourtleet hokh^n for the hundred of Twyford.in which Wateringl)ury lies; whenits kecptrheldit up with aneck- cloth or handk(^rchief j)ut through the iron ring fixed at tlie toj), and answered for it. It was made of [Kent & Sussex.'] wood, about ?> ft. 0^ in. long, with an iron ling at the top, and 1 more by the sides, near the bottom, where was a square iron spike, to fix it in the ground, or on occasion to break open doors, which was done without a warrant of any justice on suspicion of goods unlawfully concealed in any of the 15 liouses. ' — (Hasted.) Chart is the name of a i=mall manor in the parish in which a market granted by Edward II. is tradition- ally said to have been held. The dumb borsholder and the courtleet for this hundred were dis- continued toward the middle of the last century ; but it was long pre- served (and still may be) by the heirs of Thonias Clampard, a black- smith, its hii-t deputy. Its origin is altogether unknown, though it clearly belonged to the class of symbols occurring so frequently in the pro- ceedings of Saxon and Scandinavian law-courts. In the parish of East Teckliaia, W. of Wateringbury, is Iloydon Hall, the residence of AV. Cooke, Esq. ; tkroughout the troubled times of the Civil War, and afterwards, of Sir Iloger Twysden, a name well known and venerated by scholars and archaeologists. He is buried in the cliurch. The family of Twysden obtained this estate by marriage with the co-heiress of Thomas Roy- don, wdio died temj). Pli. and Mary. In West Peeliliam, the adjoining- parish, a preceptory of Knights Hos- pitallers was established on land granted them l>y Sir John Cole- peper in 1-±0S. Here are the " Hurst "" wood.s, famous for their wild swine as late as Elizabeth's reign. I2 m. W. of Wateringbury h Mere- ■ivorth Castle (Viscountess Fahiioutli), much frequented by excursionists for the sake of the surrounding scenery, which is very beautiful. As much cannot be said for the house, though Walpole thought it " so per- fect in a Pa.lladiau taste, that I must H 126 Boute 7. — East Farleigh. Sect. I. own it lias recovered me a little from Gothic."— ( Lf-/^f J- to Bcntletj, 1752.) It was Iniilt (toward the middle of last century) after a design of Pal- ladio's (the Villa della Capra), made for " a noble Vicentine gentleman," " in a situation pleasant and de- lightful, and nearly like this," with the trifling exceptions of climate and association. On either side of the main house are detached buildings of similar design, one containing the Ivitchens and offices, the other being the stables. This last occupies the site of the ancient ch., whose Gothi- cisms by no means harmonized with Yicentiue palaces, and were accord- ingly replaced, at a judicious dis- tance, by the i)resent building in a " classic " style, adorned " with a steeple that seems designed for the latitude of Cheapside, and is so tall that the poor churcli curtsies under it, like Mary Eich in a vast higli- crowned hat." — (^WaJpolc.') Witliin are some old monmnents of Nevilles and Fanes removed from the former ch. ; among them, tliat of the 1st Earl of Westmoreland. Through the noble woods at the back of the house, " Ti)-oke," says Walpole, " like an Albano landscape with an octagon temple and a triumphal arch," a great avenue is cut, 3 m. in length. Merewortli became the pi-operty of the Fanes, temp. Eliz., through a marriage with the heiress of Neville Lord Aljergavenny. Adjoining IVIereworth is Yokes Court ( — Harriman, Esq.). Tlie line now passes through an undulating country, nowhere rising into lofty hills, but rich with orchards and hop-grounds. The full, quietly flowing river, rt., with its wooded banks, give^ much beauty to the landscape, which at the vil- lage of Teston, passed 1. before reach- ing the Farleigh S-tation, is very picturesque. The Medway is here crossed by a bridge of 7 arches. Stretching up behind the village is the park of Barliam Court (Rt. Hon. T. Pemberton Leigh), from which the views over the Medway valley are very striking. The manor here, says tradition — there is no other authority — belonged to Reginald Fitzurse, one of the murderers of Becket, and on his flight into Ire- land it was taken jiossession of by his kinsman, Robert de Berham, in whose family it remained till the reign of James I. After passing through the hands of the Botilers and Bouveries, it came to Sir Charles Middleton, created Lord Barham, whose grandson, the present Earl of Gainsborough, lias lately sold the estate. The present house is modern. The Chru-ch of Wed Farlcirjli, seen on the hill, rt., is E. E. Tlie view, rt., from tlie station of 9 m. East Farleigh, should be noticed. The ch. (for tlie most part late Dec.) is seen among trees on its hill, rt. Below is a very pic- turesque ancient bridge, with ribbed arches, here crossing the Medway. In all directions are seen lioi^- gardens, with their attendant lines of ash " spinnies," for tlie supply of poles. " There are not 5 parishes in Kent, large or small, that have so many acres of hops as this little parish of East Farleigh. There is no place in all England whose hops will fetch a better price. Here dwelt the Rothschild of hop-growers" (James Ellis), " whose hop-poles alone were said to be worth 70,000Z. ; and here dwell his descendants still, tliough their grounds are little more than a tithe of his. The luxuriance of hops about here is a puzzle to theoretical agriculturists. ' Though ricli mould," says Bannister, ' gene- rally produces a larger growth of hojis than other soils, there is one exception to this rule, where the growth is frequently 18 or 20 hun- dred per acre. This is the neigh- bourhood of IMaidstone, a kind of slaty ground with an understratum Kext. Route 7. — Horsmonchn, — Cranlrook. 127 of stone. There tlie vines run up to the top of tlie longest poles, and the increase is equal to tlie most fertile soil of any kind.' " — {House- hold Words, vol. vi.) The banks on either side approach nearer the line as we reach 21 m. Maidstone. (See Etc. 5.) [rt. of Paddock's Wood station, the village of lin-ncldi'ij, i m., has some good old timbered houses. Brencldey Toll, a clump of trees on the high groimd near the village, is the land- mark of all this district. Horsmonden Church, "Ih m. beyond Brenchlej-, contains the very fine brass of John de Grofhur.st, l."30, probably the work of a French artist. He wears the chasuble, -ornamented with a central pall-shaped apparel : this, and the other ornaments tlu-oughout, are of unusually good design. The inscription across the breast records the gift by De Grof- hurst of the manor of 'Leueshothe ' to Bayham Abbey. The wooden porch of this ch., with its rich Dec. barge- boards, should be noticed. The fa- mily of Grovehiu-st, long settled at Grovehurst in this parish, became extinct in the male line temp. Eich. II. Lewisheath, the manor granted to Bayham, is also in Horsmonden. At Badmonden was a cell attached to the priory of Beaulieu in Nor- mandy. Spelmonden, an ancient manoi", S. of the ch., now a farm-house, has some fragments indicating former importance. The Weald on this side of the railway is still much covered with oak-wood, and as it rises to- ward the ridge of Brenchley and Horsmonden the views become very picturesipU'.] Passing between hop-grounds on cither side, the line reaches 51 m. Mar den. 3^ m. 1. is Linton Place (Lord Cornwallis). In the Churcli of Lin- ton are some good monuments by Bailey for members of the Corn- wallis family. (See Etc. 5, Excursion from Maidstone.) 53 m. from London is the station oi Staplehurst (distant 1^ m.). The ch. has some Dec. portions, and on the S. door is some curiously orna- mented iron-work. The village, in which are several ohl timbered houses, commands a good view over the Weald. The Peip. Church of Frittendcn, 2 m., has 1^'en lately restored. [Adjoining the Staplehurst sta- tion is the South-Eastern Hotel (good), where conveyances may be procured for visiting Cranhroolc, (J m., the principal vil- lage of the Weald, built on the out- lying ridge of Hastings sand, that extends from Tunbridge Wells to Eolvenden. (Tliere is also a coach which leaves tlie Staplehurst station for Cranbrook 3 times daih'.) The old importance of Cranbrook arose froin its being the centre of the clothing trade, introduced here by. the liody of Flemings whom Edward 111. induced to settle in England. The broadcloth manufactm-e was concentrated and carried on at Cran- brook long before the introduction of macliinury elsewhere. Blost of the landed proprietors in the Weald took part in it ; and " the grey- coats of Kent,"' as they were called from the dress worn by them of their own cloth, carried all before them in county matters. The cloth-works ceased here toward the beginning of the present centmy ; but there are still some remains of the old fac- tories in tlie principal street, not unpictvu-esqite with gables and barge- boards. There is a story tluit Queen Elizabeth, after visiting Cranl)rook and the factories, walked to Com'sc- horue manor, a mile distant, the seat of the llencUevs, entu-ely on broad- cloth. H 2 128 Route 7. — Cranhrooh. — Ileadcorn. Sect. I. The large Church of Craiibrook, principally Dec. and Pc)-]"*., retains some of its ancient glass. The porcli and lower part of tower have groined roofs. The bearing-shafts of the old nave-roof (removed) are still at- tached to the walls. There are one or two late brasses of no great in- terest. The more recent monu- ments and the whitewash which the church exhiliits are not to be com- mended. A curious custom pre- vails here and in some of the adjoin- ing parishes. When a newly-married couple leave the church, the path is strewed with emblems of the bride- groom's calling. Thus, cai-penters walk on shavings, butchers on sheep- skins, shoemakers on leather-par- ings, and blacksmiths on scraps of old iron. Stssinghurst, a corniption of Saxen- hurst, to' which family it gave name, in this parish, was the birthplace of Sir Eich.Caker,thechronicler, whose family settled here temp. Hen. VII. The house, which was very stately, was built by Sir John Baker, temp. Edw. VI. After having been long uninhabited it was, toward the end of tlie last century, made a place of confinement for French prisoners, and has since been pulled down piecemeal. The great entrance and some other fragments remain. Tlie situation is low, but the ruins and the woodland about them are worth u visit. Cranbrook (Inns : the George ; tlie Bull) will be found a good centre from which to explore the jHctu- rt'sque country lying on the Sussex border. A descent may be made from hereon Uawldiurst, and thence to liohertsJtridge. (See Sussex, post.) 3 m. E. is iToudliursf, once a cloth- ing town like Cranbrook. The church tower, raised on one of the loftiest hills in this part of Kent, deser\'es climbing for the sake of the noble and wide-spreading views commanded from it. The ch. itself contains many monuments of the Colepepers, the earliest of whicli are two effigies of the 15th cent, in wood, lying on a tomb in the S. aisle. Brass : John Bedgebury, 1 1 50. In the village remark a very curious doorway to a cottage, " of oak, cinque- foiled, with two quatrefoiled circles in each spandril." {J. H.Parker.) It is of the 15th cent. In the neighbourhood are Finch- corlis (once the seat of the Bathursts, whose ancestor acquired it by in- termarriage with the Hordens, temp. Eliz.) ; and Bedgebury Baric (A. B. Hope, Esq.), long the residence of the Bedgeljurys and Colepepers. The woods and grounds siu-rounding it are very fine. At Kihidown, ad- joining the park, is a small and very beautiful district ch. erected by Mr. Hope in 1840. The stained glass, exhibiting figures of English saints, among which is a " Carolus Eex et Martyr," is Munich work, and a fine specimen of that school of glass- painting. The absence of clear lights, caused by a heavy coat of white cement laid over the back of the glass (a distinguishing feature of Munich glass), is as apparent here as in the windows of the IMaria Hilf Church at Munich. ( a Wiitston.) The chapel is much enrichedthroughout.] 56 m. Headcorn. The ch. here is Perp., with some fragments of stained glass. The panelled roof, the font, and some carved bench-ends, deserve notice. In the churchyard is an enormous oak, 40 ft. in circumference, the upper branches of Avhich have perished. There are some picturesque points near the village, on the stream of the Beult. At Motteiiden, in this parish, was the first house of Crouched (crossed) Friars established in England, temp. Hen. III. There are no remains. The friars were famous for their Miracle play acted in the ch. on Trinity-Sunday. Kkxt. Route ■Biddenden. — Tentcrden . 129 [TL-nterden, 8^ m., la reached from this statiuu. An oniuibiis meets the early trains. The road lies entirely through the Weald, (A.-S. forest, or wood) ; the termination den, which aboimds in this district, marking, like the nu- merous hursts, the ancient depth of forest, much of which still lingers. Mr. Kemhlu has suggested that the ancient Mark (the common settle- ment of the iirst Saxon colonists) is to be recognised by following the names of places ending in den, " which always denoted cnhile fera- rum, or pasture, usually for swine." These dens were in the circle of un- cleared forest which surrounded the settled habitations of the jNIark ; and the coimuon right of the Markruen to i^asture their cattle and s%\-ine in them was regulated by a general court. Such a " Court of Dens " existed for this part of Kent until comparatively recent times, having gradually, from its original form, taken that of a " Lord's Court." It was held at Aldington, near Hythe, and claimed jurisdiction over 44. " Dens," the greater part of which may still be traced " along the edge of the Weald, mtliin whose shades the swains found mast and pasture." — Kemhle, Sax. in England, i. 481. About half way from Headcoru to Tenterden is Biddenden, where is a ch. of some interest, with portions ranging from E. E. to late Peii). The E. E. font is worth notice. . On the afternoon of Easter Sun- day a quantity of cakes, stamped with the figures of two women, united at the sides after the fashion of the Siamese twins, are distributed in the ch. porch to all comers. Bread and cheese, to a considerable amount, are given at the same time to the poorer parishioners. This, saj-s tradition, was the legacy of twin-sisters, called " The Maids of Biddenden," who lived for 30 years luiited according to the represen- tation on the cakes. Tradition- disturbing antiquaries, however, in- sist that the figures are those of 2 poor widows, the Biddenden art- conception of " Charity," and that the cakes were the gift of 2 maiden ladies named Preston, who left 20 acres of land to the parish for this piu-pose. At Standen, 5 m. E. of the ch., is an interesting timbered hoiise, built 1578. Over the front door is the sentence, " Blessed are they that hear the word of God and keepeth it." The chimney-pieces are of Weald marl)lc, abounding through- out the district. Altogether, this specimen of a Wealden dwelling de- serves examination. It may here be mentioned that somewhere in the Weald— the exact spot is ludiuown — was the birthplace of William Cax- ton, the first English printer, d. 1404. " I was born," he says, " and lerned myne EnglLsh in Kente, in the Weeld, where English is spoken broad and rude." 4 m. further through the Weald lies Tenterden (Inn, the White Lion), the famous cause of the Goodwin sands ; the tall Perp. tower becom- uig consiiicuous as the village is approached. The ch. itself, ded. to St. Mildred of Thanet, is of various dates, the earliest portions being E. E., but the window-traceries have been nearly all removed, and much general damage has been done. The tower is fine and massive, the largest and most important in the district. Tenterden Church belonged to the abbey of St. Augustine, Canterbury ; and Kentish tradition asserts that the abbot, during the building of the steeple, employed for the work a qiuintity of stone which had been collected for the strengthening ot the sea-wall of the Goodwins, then a part of the mainland. The next storm, in consequence, submerged all 130 Route 7 . — Molvenden. — Newenden. Sect. I. that district, of wliicli the Goodwin Sands are the existing remains, and thus the steeple came to he regarded as the cause of the quick. 'ands. It need hardly be said that the whole story is apocn^^hal, and tliat the Goodwins were probably in existence long before any tower overlooked Eomney Marshes from the heights of Tenterden. Tenterden lies in the district called " Tlic Seven Hundreds," which long formed a part of the Crown posses- sions, and were placed under the jurisdiction of one court. Henry VI. united Tenterden to the Cinque Port of Eye, of which it is still a member. Until recently it had a cori)oration, and all other Cinque-Port j^rivi- leges. As late as the middle of the IGth cent, an estuary extended from Eye as far as Small Hythe in Ten- terden, where was a chapel dedi- cated to St. John the Baptist, in the chmx-hyard of which shij^wrecked corpses were allowed to be buried. In the neighbourhood is Herouden Jlall (W. Whclan, Esq.). liiih-enden, 2 m., has a Pcrp. ch. of some interest. The font is Dec. and good. At Forsham, in this parish, are the foundations of a stone building which has been variously called a chapel and a " fort." There is no trace of its history. The Church of BenemJcn, 2 m., has some Dec. portions, but has been terribly spoilt. About B m. S. of Eolvcnden is Ntwenden. In the ch. is a remark- able font, square, with carved sides, at least early Norm. There is a good Dec. screen. The first Englisli establishment of Carmelite friars is said to have been made at Losenham in this parish, in 1241, but this lionour is contested ])y the Carmelite Friary at Aylesford (see Ete. 5), wliicli at all events was a more important one. No remains of tlie Losenham Priory exist. This monasteiy is thought by Camden to have been formded on the site of the ancient Anderida, which had hitlierto re- mained desolate after its destruction by the Saxons ; and at some distance from Loseuham House is a spot called "Castle ToU," where are traces of large and deep entrenchments, en- closing a lofty mound. These re- mains, the age of which is imceiiain, were at one time regarded as traces of the ancient city. The claims of Newenden, however, have been effec- tually set aside by the Rev. A. Hussey C Notes on- Kentish Clmrches'), and recent researches have delinitely fixed Anderida at Pereiiseij. (See Sussex, post.) The Chiu'ch of Sandhurst, beyond Newenden, on the Sussex border, is very early Dec, and worth a visit in spite of much mutilation. The western tower has a small aisle, N. and S. (Comp. Scaford in Sussex.) In the N. chancel are some remains of stained glass, among which is the figure of an armed knight, said to be that of John deBetherinden, lord of the manor temp. Edw. II. The ridge of hills, at the end of which Tenterden stands, ranges through Cranbrook and Goudhurst toward Tunbridge Wells, and com- mands some veiy picturesque scenery. The tourist may follow the whole line with advantage, making Cranhrooh his central rest- ing-i)lace.] [Between 4 and 5 m. N. of Head- corn, on the edge of the greensand or Quarry Hills, cuiderliers of the chalk, is a group of churches, the Suttons, Chart, Ulcombe, and Bough- ton Malherbe, all within a short distance of each other. A pleasant excursion may be made from the Headcorn station, along this line of hills, from whence the views are often very fine, returning to the railway at Pluckley. This will oc- cupy an entire day. Of the cliurches the most interesting are East Sutton and Bourjhlon. In the chancel of Kext. Route 7. — Sutton. — Bougliton. 131 Ead Sutton is the brass of Sir Ed- ■\vard Filmer, his wife, and IS chil- dren (1(529). His sou, the royahst, author of some remarkable trea- tises on ' the ' Natm-al Power of Kings,' resided at East Sutton Place (now belonging to his descendant. Sir E. Filmer, Bart.) during the civil wars, and bad his house plmi- dered 10 times " for his loyalty." The present house, with its pic- tiu-esque gables, has been added to at various times, bixt is mainly Eli- zabethan. Little Charlton (Mrs. Munro), in this parish, is an Eliz. house of some interest, which has been lately re- .stored. At Sutton Valence, on a hill ad- joining the eh., are some scanty remains of a castle, the histoiy of which is unknown, but which was probably the work of one of the Valences, Earls of Pembroke, who held the manor for some time. The fragment of keep-wall which exists dates probably from the end of the 13th cent. About 10 ft. from the ground there are some remarkable cells in the thickness of the wall, about 8 ft. long, 6 ft. high, and 3 or 4 ft. wide. There is no external opening, and their use seems quite uncertain. Chart is recorded in Domesday as possessing a vineyard of " three ai-})ents." It may be remaikcd that the soil much resembles that of the champagne districts about Epernav, though a compotitiou is hardly to be recommended. The Church of Botighton Malherhe is Dec, and contains the effigies of a cross-legged knight and of a lady, either belonging to the Malhcrbe family, which possessed the manor temp. Hen. III., or to tlie Peyfoi'crs of Colbridge Castle, some traces of wliich exist S. of the ch. Its ma- terials are said to liave been used for building Bougltton Place, long the residence of tlie Wottons, and afterwards the property of Sir Ho" race Mann, the correspondent of Walpole— called by Walton " an an- cient and goodly structure." Hero was born, in 15lJ6, Sir Henry Wotton, of great reputation under James and Charles I., but happiest in having Isaac Walton for his biographer. The place is now a farndioxise, but retains " the advantage of its largo prospect " noticed by SValton. Some of the ancient rooms also remain, and are worth a visit. The circular roof of the dining-hall is much en- riched. On one of the chimnej- pieces is the date 1553. The house was built l)y Sir Ed. Wotton, trea- surer of Calais, temp. Hen. VIII., and was visited by Q. Eliz. in 1573. In this neighbom-hood is Chel- ston (J. S. Douglas, Esq.).] The valley overlooked by Sutton Valence and by Bougliton Place is traditionally said to have been an arm of the sea; and it is asserted that an anchor was discovered close under tlie walls of Sutton Castlo almost within living memory. The sea cannot, however, have covered this district within the historical period. Through this valley tlio line passes to 02 m. Plucldeij. Here is an E. E. ch., with many Perp. ^^'indows inserted. (One in tlio Surreuden chancel is tilled with early German glass of some interest.) The ch. is said to have been built by Rich, de Pluckley, temp. Hen. 11. It stands high, and from the village noble views are commanded over tho Wealds of Kent and Sussex. Brass, John Malmaines, 1440. 5 m. E. of the ch. is Surrcnden Bering (Sir Edward Dering), com- manding line views over the Weald — " a very delicate and various pro- spect," says Wcever. The Saxon family of Dering, which still bears as a crest the famous Horse of Hen- gist, became possessed of this manoi-, temp. Hen. VI., by a marriage with 132 Route 7. — Bethersdea. — Ashford. Sect. I. its heiress. Tlie liouse contains an important library, the foundations of which were laid by Sir Edward Dering, whose name figures largely during the early part of the civil war. The mansion itself is mainly the work of his descendant, temp. Geo. II. [Little Chart, 1 ni., has a ch. with portions from E. E. to late Pcip. There are some fragments of stained glass. In the N. aisle is the effigy of an armed knight with collar of SS.— one of thc^Darell famUy, to whom this aisle belongs. It is en- closed with a Perp. screen of wooil. The towers of this ch., of Eger- ton, and of Charing, are said to have been built by Sir John Darell, temp. Hen. VII. Adjoining is Calc Hill (E. Darell, Esq.), the seat of the Darells smce the reign of Heniy IV. The tower of Erjerton Church (1^ m. W.) is marked as one of the boundaries of the Weald. It stands high on the Quarry Hills, at tlie back of which rises the ch;dk, and looks out far over the wooded dis- trict to the S.] \_Smurdeii Church (^ m. rt. of the Pluckley station) has on either side the chancel-arch some unusual tre- foil-headed ornamentation, which may be pai-t of a rcredos ; it de- serves examination. 2 m. S. of Pluckley is Bdhersden, famous for its quarries of marble, filled with minute shells, and resem- l)ling that of Petworth. Tins is now little worked ; but its ancient reputation is shown l)y the extensive use of it in Canterbuiy and Eoclies- ter cathedrals, and by numerous monumental effigies sculptured in it, and existing in dift'erent parts of the county. The shells of which this marble is almost entirely com- posed, are freshwater species, and consist (as at Petworth) of Paludiiu'e and minute crustaceans of the genus Cypris. In the prc-macadamite period Bethersden enjoyed an evil reputation for the depth and danger of its roads, which here, as through- out the Weald, were for the most part narrow lanes between the woods, all but impassable in winter. The sward was cleared ofl' these " tm-u- pike-roads," and, as soon as they became tolerably dry in summer, they were ploughed up, and the surface soil " laid in a half-circle to dry thoroughly." (Hasted). Great ladies were thus oljliged to travel to church in carriages drawn by a team of oxen. brasses in the ch. are, — W. Lovelace, citizen of London, 1459 ; Thomas Lovelace, 1591.] The low range of hills, 1., now ap- proaches nearer the line, which (j7 m. reaches Ashford. 1. is the branch line by Canter- Inny to Piamsgate and Margate. rt. the branch which, skirting Eoinney Marsh, runs by Ajjpledore and Eye to Hastings. This is tlie principal "repairing"' station on the Soutli-Eastern Eailway, and the ground adjoining the line is covered with extensive workshops. xVshford, although of some size (Pop. 5000 — Inn: the Saracen's Head), and important as the junc- tion of 3 great lines of railwaj', contains nothing t(.) attract the tourist except the Church, the fine Perp. tower of which is conspicuous on entering. This, which greatly resembles (of course, in miniature) the Bell Hariy Tower of Canterbury Cathedral, was built by Sir John Fogge, of Eejiton, temp. Edw. IV., who also rebuilt, or restored, the en- tire church, the greater part of which is of this date. The tomb of Sir John Fogge remains in the chancel, but without its l)rasses. On the pavement is the brass of Elizabeth wife of David de Straljolgie, Earl of Athole (i;]75j : she married secondly John Malmayns of Kent : hence her interment in this ch. Here are also Kext. Route 7. — Great Chart. — Aldington. T Of some elaborate IGth century monu- raeut3 for the Smytlics of Wcsteu- lianger, wbich deserve notice. Ashford is indebted to Shakspeare for the honour of figiiring as the native place of the " headstrong Kentish man, John Cade of Ashford." (Henry VI., Part II.). Hall, wlio de- .scribes him as of a " goodly stature and pregnant wit," calls him only " the lustv Kentish captain." The Perp. Chmx-h of Great aiart (2 m. W. of Asliford; and seen from the railway before the town is reached) contains the somewhat re- markable Brass of William Sharpe and 5 wives (1199). An old manor- house, called Comhe Lodge, near the ch., has portions of the 14th cent. The N. side of tlie hall-windows are of this date, though much concealed by a lean-to roof.— /. U. P. Godinrj- ton (Ecv. N. Toke) passed to the Toke family by intermarriage, temp. Hen. VII. The hoase has been partly modernised, but contains some good oak-carving and stained glass. The chestnuts in the park sliouUl be noticed. Nicholas Toke, of Codington (d. 1G80), like his pre- decessor in this parish, William Sharjje, survived 5 wives, and, ac- cording to the family tradition, walked to London at the age of d'-l to seek a sixth, but died before find- ing her. This veteran's portrait re- mains in the hall. IHothfield, 2h m.W., contests witli Heathfield, in Sussex, the honour of having been the place at which Jack Cade was taken by the Sheriff Iden. " Jack Cade's Field " was long- shown adjoining liothfield Place (Sir II. Tufton). Sussex however seems to liave the better claim. In Willesborouijli Cliurch,2iXi.'E.,aK' several stone seats resembling those of Lcnham (Kent) and Corhampton (Hants) : they are figured Gloss. Arch. A tradition in the family of Masters, long resident here, and one of wliom was Queen Elizabeth's physician, is said to have furnished the plot for Otway's tragedy of ' The Oii)lian.'] Beyond Ashford the undulating lines of the chalk hills soon become visible, 1. ; but the railway does not yet leave the greensand. 72 m. Siiieeth. S. of the station is 3Lrs]iam ILdch (Sir Edward KnatchbuU). The house, of red brick, was rebuilt during the last cent. Smeeth Chm'cli contains Norm, portions, especially a fine chancel arch with enriched mouldings. Ad- joming the line rt. was the site of Scot's Hall, the ancient seat of the Scots, a tiimily professing de- scent frona William de Balliol, le Scot. Sir Thomas Scot, the head of this House, was appointed leader of the Kentish forces at the time of the Armada, and 1iy the help of the beacons sent 4000 men to Dover tlie day after receiving the Council's letters. Reginakr Scot, author of the ' Discovei-ie of Witchcraft ' (first published in 1584), was of this fa- mily. The original mansion has entirely disappeared. [The Church of Aldington (3 m. S.) was that given liy Abp. Warhani to Erasmus ua 1511. He resigned it very soon aftei-wards, on condition of receiving a pension of 20/. per annum from its revenues. In the ch. is a good Brass of John Weddeol and his wife (1475). The tower is late PeiiL, with a W. door much en- riched, and deserving notice. Close to the ch. is a large .stone house, mucli altered and modernised, but retaining 2 large 2-light windows of the 14th cent. — Parker. There is no trace here of the great DuteJi- man, but he was still receiving his pension when Richard Masters, his successor, " a young man well skilled in divinity," says Erasmus, in one of his letters, " discovered " the famous nun of Kent, afterwards the great oracle of the party of Queen Cathe- rine. From her first attacks of frenzy, evidently unassumcd, she recovered 11 3 134 Route 7. — Brdbourne. — Westenhanger. Sect. 1. after lyiuG; before the image of the Virgin in the little chapel of Court of Street, about 1 m. E. of Aldington Church. After gaining some reputa- tion as a prophetess, she was carried to this chapel accompanied by a procession of 2000 persons singing psalms by the way— a solemn inaugu- ration, which was patronised by 2 monks of Christ Church, who " took her into training,'' and sent her to St. Seijulchre's, Canterbury, where from her cell she long influenced the politics of Europe (see Froiale, i. 295-308). Some wall fragments still mark the site of the chapel, wliich stood below a ridge of wooded ground that stretches E. as far as Hythe, and overlooks the marshes. Tiie sea view is very striking. Court of Street is also known as Belerica,a,w\ has traditions of ancient greatness, which are probably due to its vicinity to Lijnme. It stands on the Eoman road wliich ran from Lymne to Peveusey (Anderida), the straight course of wliicli, along the high ground, at once betrays its origin. " Kemains of Roman settlements are discovered all along, on both sides of the road, wliich seems to have been bordered with villas." — Wrigld."^ Brahourne Churcli, among the low hills (1 m. N. of Smeetli), has a re- markable stone erection against the S. wall of the chancel. It is about the usual height of an altar, but is much smaller. Cut on the stone on the top is a cross enclosed in a cii'cle, and 3 sides of a parallelo- gram rt. and 1. At the back is a low-arched canopy, under which is a shield which has been painted. It is apparently late Dec, and has been called a credence-table ; more probably it marks the place where the heart of some important personage was deposited, like the tabernacle at Lcyliorne near Maidstone (,see lite. 5) : it is too liigh for a seat. In the ch. is a mutilated stone efSgy of uncer- tain date, and at the vicarage is pre- .servcd the Brass of Sir William Scott (1546). The armorial bearings on the tomb of Sir Kobert Gower, also in the ch., and the same coat of Gower quartered with that of Scott, on a later monument here, are iden- tical with the bearings on the tomb of Gower the iwet in St. Saviom-'s, Southwark, who on the strength of this evidence is claimed as a Kentish worthy. The churcliyard is famous for an enormous yew-tree, which, according to De CandoUe, is 3000 years old, and therefore a contemporary of Solomon's temple. The yews of the Kentish churchyards are many of them of extreme age and size ; and it has been suggested that they mark ancient religious rites which were Cliristianised l)y the building of the ch. A remarkable conical hill in this liarish, called " Collier's Kill," seen rt. from the rail, has a large pond on its top, which is said never to become dry. From the next station — • 75 lii., Westenhaiujer — a very inter- esting excursion may be made, em- bracing Hythe, Saltwood Castle, and the Roman Castrum at Lymne. An omnibus to and from Hythe ( 3J m.) meets the trains, and at Hythe car- riages may be procured for visiting Lymne, 35 m. W. (If the tourist walk to Hythe he should take Salt- wood Castle in his way.) Adjoining the station, rt., among some fine old walnut-trees, are the remains of the ancient mansion of Westenhanger, a remarkable frag- ment of the fortified manor of the loth cent. It is surrounded by a broad moat, enclosing a c[uadranglc, the walls of which were defended by 9 towers, alternately square and round. Of these towers, 3 only re- main ; and the interior buildings have ail-but disapi^eared, a farm- house having been built on jiart of the site. The round dovecot tower at the N.E. angle lias holes for 500 pigeons, and is curious. The cen- IvENT. Eoute 7. — Hythe. 135 tral tower of the 3 remaining is called Fair Eosamond's, from a tradition tliat the " Rosa Mnndi " had her bower here before her re- moval to Woodstock. A long gallery adjoining the tower, now destroj'ed, was called her " 2)ri- son." The single confirmation of this tradition is the fact that the left hand of a statue grasping a sceptre — "a position peculiar to Hemy II.," says Hasted, — but queiy? — was long since found in the ruins. The existing towers, however, are of later date, and are probably the work of Bertram de Criol, temp. Hen. III. The manor subsequently passed into the hands of the Poynings family, by one of whom. Sir Edward Poyn- ings, the chapel and other parts of the mansion now destroved were built, temp. Hen. VIII. ' It then lapsed to the crown ; and Queen Elizabeth rested during one of her progresses " at lier own house at Westenhanger." The name has sometimes been written (Escing- hanger, from the tradition, which also belongs to Saltwood, of its having been built by the CEscings, the Saxon kings of Kent. In ac- cordance with this, Eosamond"s Tower is sometimes called the Tower of Hengist. In the register of S. Augustine's, Canterbury, the manor is called " Le Hangre " {amjra. Sax., a corner of land). It was subse- quently divided into Osten and Westen Hanger. ^Hythe (the harhoiu; Sax.), Pop. 2500 (//»(, The Swan), one of the chief Cinque Port.s, is, like the others, a successor of one of the Roman fortresses placed under tlie control of the Count of the Saxon shore. Portus Leman'iK, the ancient castle and luirbour, is now more than 3 m. distant, tlie sea having gradually retired, first to West HijtJie, and then to the present haven, which is still silting up. Hythe rejoiced in all tJie Cinque Ports' privileges, and exhibits many traces of ancient prosperity. Its harboiu-, which lay " strayt for pas- sage owt of BolcjTi" {Lchoiil), was greatly narrowed in Elizaljeth'is time, and soon became ail-but closed. 'Jhe Church, dedicated to S. Leo- nard, stands on high gromid com- manthng a fine view of the sea and Romney INlarsh, and well de- serves a visit. The tower and much of the nave were rebuilt toward the middle of last century. Tim E. E. triple chancel still remains. The main chancel is raised by 8 steps above the nave, and has a farther ascent of 3 to the altar. The view from the W. end is thus rendered very imiiressive. Round the chancel is an arcade of Bethers- den marble, which is also used for the clustered shafts below. The mouldings and enricliments should be carefully noticed. There are no monuments of special interest. On the exterior of the N. transept are traces of a Norm. door. In the cryj,it under the central chancel is an extraordinary collec- tion of human skulls and bones, re- minding the visitor of the Breton ossuaries. Many of the skulls have deep cuts in tliem, and are thought to have become blanched by long lying on the sea-shore. Their age and date are altogether xmccrtain, nor can it be fairly assumed that they are the relies of any battle, in spite of the local hjqjothesis, which makes tliem the remains of Briton.s and Saxons, or of Saxons and Danes. A similar collection once existed at Folkestone, and another at Upchurcli, ou a creek opening to the Medway. IMr. AVright has pointed out that no tradition witli resjiiect to the origiii of tlie collection of boues at Ilytlio existed at the begimiing of the last cent., and suggests that they may have come from a Saxon or Romaii cemetery, on which the original ch. may have been constructed. Like the other Cinque Ports, llylho 13G Route 7. — Salticood Castle. Sect. 1. liad 2 well-encTo'wcd liospitals, which still exist— *S^<. Bartholomeiv'i),foiindcd 1330 hy Bp. Hamo of Eochestcr ; and St. John's, of unknown but early foundation. The existing buildings, thougli not modern, arc of no great interest. In the High Street bcjlow St. John's hospital is an Elizabethan timbered liouse wortli notice. The quarries of greensand near Hythc abomul in fossils. Fragments of an enormous marine saiu-ian found here some years since arc now in the British Museum. An excursion of some interest may be made from Hythe to Romney, and across the marshes to Appledore. (See Sussex, post«) Tlie Military Canal, which be- gins close to Hytlie, and crosses the marshes to Appledore, was com- menced in 1805, when the Martello towers along the coast were also erected. The canal, in which there is said to be good fishing, was in- tended for the conveyance of troops and stores, but was never completed. Military stations were erected on it at intervals, many 'of which are now used by tlie Preventive Service. All the purposes for whicli this canal was designed are now obtained far more eifectually l)ythe railway from Ashford to Hastings. Saltwood Castle, 1 m. N., is within an easy Avalk of Hythc. There are considerable remains, and the site is sufficiently i)icturesque ; low, wooded hills stretching away on citlier side, and the sea opening at the end of the valley in front. Within the outer walls, forming a long oval, was a broad deep moat, now dry, but originally fed from the Saltwood In-ook, which runs W. of the Castle. Across the moat is the imier f/atehouse. Hanked ))y 2 cir- cular towers. The portcullis groove is visible over the arch. The actual gatehouse was the work of Abp. Courtenny, temp. Rich. II. ; and the shields above the entrance bear on one side the archbishop's coat alone, on the otlu-r that of Cour- tenay impaled witli the see of Can- tcrbmy. The circular flanking towers arc perhaps a century earlier. This tine gate-tower has not been improved by its long use as a farm- house. The roof should be climbed for tlie sake of the view, which ex- tends to the French coast, and i» very striking. The inner court was surrounded by a lofty wall with turrets at inter- vals ; and here were the principal apartments, remains of which still exist. The foimdations of the cha- pel may l)e traced toward the centre of the court ; the reimiins on the S. side, usually jiointed out as belong- ing to it, being probably tliose of a hall or solar. Mucli of the castle was overthrown in 1580 by an earth- rpiake. Saltwood was granted to the see of Canterbury in i03(>, byHalfden, a Danish jarl. The castle' was at first held 1)y ditferent knights under the archbishops, and its antiquity is in- dicated by the tradition which assigned its first building to Esc or Oisc, the mythical ])rogeuitor of the kings of Kent. Henry de Esses, Constable of England, is said to have rebuilt it, temp. Hen. I. His lands were subsequently forfeited, and the king seized and retained the castle of Saltwood. It was claimed by Becket as among the ancient possessions of his see. Hence the great enmity displayed towards him ))y Eandulf de Broc, who then held it. It was he who executed the orders for the banishment of Becket's relatives " with a barbarity beyond what was required.'' Tlie De Brocs had the charge of the pahice at Canterbury during the archbishop's absence, and one of them guided tlie knights through its passages on the evening of the murder. It was at Saltwood that the 4 knights assembled after landing separately at Dover and Win- chelsea, and here during the niglit (Dec. 28, 1170) the murder is said Kent, Route 7. — Lymne. 137 to have been concerteJ, the candles being extinguished, according to popidar belief, since they feared to see each other's faces. Hence they rode to Canterbury along the Stone Street, and here was their first rest- ing-place after the murder. (Stank'tj, H. M. 50.) King John restored the castle to the archbishops, one of whose residences it continued until Cranmer exchanged it for other lauds with the Crown. It has since passed through various hands, and is now the property uf Wm. Deedes, Esq., of Sandling. Saltwood Church, which has been lately restored, is large and de- serves a visit. The font is enclosed in a case of carved oak. Brass, Thomas Brokhill (1437 ). Adjoining is SandUiuj Tarh (W. Deedes, Esq.). The drive to Ijymne, 'A m., extends along a tract of high ground over- hanging the marshes. The road, how- ever, is not picturesque until Lymne itself is reached, when a very fine view seaward, extending to Duuge- ness, opens suddenly. The ancient CastrHiii,knosvnasSlu(lfall Castle, by which name the tourist must inquire for it, occupies a wild and solitary position on the edge of this broken tract, at the point where it begins to turn landward. The ruins, though scarcely less interesting, are not so intelligible at first sight as those of Eichborough or Reculver. The area (about 12 acres) is uneven and hiter- sectedby hedges ; and the visitor who desires to obtain a proper idea of the .situation of the Castrum, and of its relation to the haven, should walk for some distance into the marshes, and thence look back upon it. The plan of the Castrum was more irregular tliau that of either of those just mentioned, owing no doubt to the form of the ground. The E. and W. sides were straight ; that on the N. bent ui)wards in a semi- circular form. On the S., where it overlooks the harbour, there seems to have been no wall, as was also the case at Richliorough. Like the others, it had circular towers at inter- vals in its line of wall. Nearly in the centre of the E. side was the Decu- man gate (discovered during the re- cent excavations), flanked by 2 circu- lar towers. There were many small postern entrances. The walls which are now best seen are the N. and W., large portions of which are yet standing. At the S.W. corner is the most perfect tower remaining (10 ft. high, 45 ft. circumference). The N. E. and W. sides have fallen out- wards in masses so confused as to render it difficult to trace their lines. This was probably the result of landslips, to which this whole dis- trict is sidjject. Remark the trowel- marks on the mortar, and some circular perforations in a fragment of wall on the N.E. side, which were probably scafibld-holes, though it has been suggested that they were intended for conveying water. The facing stones and tile bonchng courses have sufiered greatly in these parts of the wall ; but in tlie fomidations and masses uncovered during the recent excavations they remained perfect. The stone used is tliat of the district, and the central mass of the wall is filled up with rmigh pieces. The whole works were as carefully finished as those of the most accu- rately building railway company. The walls of Lymne were probably built at a late period of the Roman occui:)ation, since mpaiy of the stones appear to have belonged to earlier buildings. In tlie Decuman gate part of an altar was discovered, bearing the inscription, " Prasfect. Clas. Brit.;" thus confirming the ex- istence of an early company of " Bri- tish Marines " (Classiarii Britan- nici), which had been already guessed at by Mr. Roach Smitli, from the letters CI. Br. on tiles found at Dover. Some few ornaments and weapons were also discovered, and some coins, the greater numl)er be- longing to the Constantiue family. 138 Eoute 7. — Lymne. — Stone Street. Sect. I. Portus Lcmanis is mentioned in all the early Itineraries ; and at the compilation of the Notitia was garri- soned by the Prepositns Turnacensi- um, a body of soldiers fi'om Touruay. The river Lymne or Lemanis, tlie Sax. Limene, has been identiiied with the liother, wliioh now joins the sea at Eye, liaving greatly changed its aneient course. It seems doubtful whether it ever flowed near the Castrum ; but from the high groimd above the ruins the bay or estuary — the ancient Portus, now dry land — is distinctly traceable as far as Hythe. The sea-sand lies almost on the surface, and affects the colour of the soil throughout. Stud/all, the present name of the ruins, signifies a fallen place ; and is found applied to ancient remains in other counties. Besides the land- slips, from which all this district has sulfered, and which have aided in ■changing the coiu'se of the rivers, the castle has been injured by depre- dators like Abp. Lanfranc, who used much of the squared stone for build- ing the church of Lymne. For all that is known of Lynaie, and of these ruins, see C. B. Smith's 'Antiquities of Riclihorough, Eecidvcr, ami Li/inne: Londoi), 1850.' The Church of Lymne, on the liill above the castle, still has Norm. portions, and some of the stones from the Roman fortress may be traced in its walls. The castellated Louse adjohiing, belonging to the Archdeacon of Canterbury, but now only a farm, formed part of a " cas- telet embatayled," as Leland calls it, and is said also to have been the work of Lanfranc, though the exist- ing remains are Edwardian. It was probably a watch-tower, the Norm, successor of the Castrum. The views from this high ground are very fine. 4 m. E. "of the ch. is tihepu-aii Cross, where the earliest general courts of the Cinque Ports were held in the open air. Here also the "Limeuarchu," the warden of the ports, took and received the oaths on first enteiing on his oflSpe. These courts were at an early jieriod removed to Roinney, as the central port. Shepway Cross gives name to the whole lathe, a mark of its an- cient importance.] [The road which led from Canter- bury to Portus Lemanis was the Stone Street, whicli, however, has not been traced in the immediate neighboiu-hoodof the Castrum. From the Wcstenhanrjer station it stretches away in a straight line to the hills above Canterbury, 16 m., and the toiuist may still travel to Duro- vernum by this old path of the legions. It serves as a boundary to the parishes on either side of it. On this road, 3 m. from Westen- hanger, and in what was once the park of Jlount IMorris, is the Chm-cli of Moidi's Horton, the tower of which is of wood and curious. There are some remains of stained glass. 2 m. S.W., in a low situation among woods, by tlie side of a stream, are the re- mains of Horton I'riorij, now con- verted into a farmhouse. A large apartment, now a storeroom, is panelled, and retains a IGtli cent, ceiling, the compartments of which are richly ornamented. Some frag- ments without, and an arch in one of the oftices, belong to the original building and are Tr. Norm. The whole deserves examination. The Priory, founded early in the reign of Henry II., by Eobert de Ver, was Cluniac, and a cell of the famous house of St. Pancras at Lewes. It was made " indigena " by Edward III. The manor of Monk's Horton was attached to it ; but the Priory was of no great value when resigned to King Henrys commissioners. From the Priory a field-path leads to the Westenlianger Station. Stoiding Church^'N. of Monk's Hor- ton, which has been lately restored, contains some good fragments of Perp. glass. On the chalk hills, here called"" the backbone of Kent," were Kej^t. Route 7. — Folkestone. 139 discovered, not many years since, at least 30 skeletons and many Roman- Britisli remains, indicating cither a cemetery or tlie locality of a battle.] Leaving Westenlianger, the line crosses handling Park (W. Deedes, Esq.). The first glimjise of the sea is gained after passing the Salticood tuunel, cut through the greensaud. The ruins of Saltwood Castle are here visible at some distance rt., and on one of the conical hills 1., wliich are characteristic of this district (see post), is seen Beachborouyh snmnier- lioiise. The house (W. Broclcman, Esq.) lies below. The Ford Valley viaduct, of 19 arches, and 75S ft. long, is then crossed, and the train reaches 82 m. Folkestone, the last watering- place discovered on the S. coast, aud in some respects the best (Pop. of town and ixiri.^h 5000). Inns: The Pavilion, at the end of tlie pier, among the best in EngLuid, with a table-d'hote twice a day, and a fixed scale of prices himg in every room ; — Eoyal George ; — York. "Eoine," says Thomas Ingoldsby, " stood on 7 hills ; Folkestone seems to have been built on 70"— a site wliich at least adds to tlie pictu- resque qualities of the town, the oldest part of which stands in a narrow valley, formed by the ter- mination of the great chalk and sandstone ranges. The name (no doidat Fulke's town) has been va- riously interpreted Folks-stano (the people's rock) — the rock of the small people (/a/V/es), thinks Baxter — or Flos-stane, a " flaw in the rock," wliich, says Lambarde, " beginneth here." The place, which was a Saxon royal manor, and after the Conquest a limb of the Dover Cinque Port, was known for little more than its Priory of St. EansM'ith, luitil it grew into some reputation as a fishing-town toward the end of tlie last century. The real prosperity of Folkestone, however, dates from'the opening of the railway in 1844, the consequent improvements of its harbour, and the establishment of packets to Boulogne. New streets and villas immetliately sprang up in plenty ; and the wide sea - view, always alive with vessels, the plea- sant neighbourhood, and the great excellence of the air, combine to make Folkestone an attractive watering-place. To this the good arrangements of the Pavilion have not a little contributed. The chief relic of ancient Folke- stone is the Cliureh, which stands very picturesquely on the W. cliflf. The tower is placed between the nave and chancel : this last is E. E., with an unusually high-pitched roof, and is very interesting. Great part of the nave fell diuing a storm in 1705, and only a portion was rebuilt. The cli. is in consequence sadly de- faced ; a result to which the hideous galleries within contribute all in their power. The rope of the tolling bell is brought into the ch. from the tower through an octagonal opening, ofPerp. date. (Comp. Glastonbury.) The font is Perp. On the N. side of the chancel is a much shattered altar tomb, of late Dec. character and good design, with an effig}'-, assigned to one of the Fiennes family, more than one of whom were constables of Dover Castle. In the S. chancel is a 17th cent, monument, for John Herdson ; and a Br,iss in the nave, which deserves notice, commemorates Joan Harvey, d. 1605, who among other virtues is praised as " a charitable, quiet neighbour," and who was the mother of William Harvey, discoverer of the circulation of the blood, born here, April 1, 1578. Adjoinhig the N. door is a vault, which once contained a collection of skulls resembling that at Hythe. In the Singing Gal- lery is the stone lid of an early coffin bearing a cross of unusual shape. No part of the existing ch. can belong to that built by Nigel do Muneville, lord of Follvcstone, temp. Stephen. This earlier building, like 140 Route 7. — Folkestone. Sect. I. the present, on the site of whicli it stood, served as the conventual church for the Benedictine priory of S. Eanswitli, -winch De Mune- ville first established \s-ithin the limits of the Castle of Folkestone, and which aftei-wards, owing to tlie wasting of the cliff, was removed to a site adjoining the present ch. It was attached as a cell to the Xornian Abbey of Lonlay, in the diocese of Seez. Some scanty remains, thought to indicate the site of this priory, exist in the vicarage garden ; and much so-called Roman tile was traceable among the ruins in Has- ted's time. The l)ody of St. Eans- witli, daughter of King Eadbald of Kent, was removed from the castle to the existing ch. ; and her stone coffin is said to have been discovered in the wall of the S. aisle, toward the middle of the 17th cent. The Castle of Folkestone, which stood on the cliff, a short distance S. of the ch., Is said to have been founded by King Eadbald of Kent, about G30, on the site of a Roman watch-tower. A later Norman fortress was built on the same site by the great house of Avranches (de Abrincis), who became lords of Folkestone soon after the Conquest. The present Bail (ballium) marks the spot, and a length of ancient wall on the E. side may perhaj^s be Norm. The hail-pond, or reservoir, is sup- plied with water from St. Eanswith's spring, which she brought miracu- lou.sly here " over the hils and rocks to her oratorie at the seaside." Within this castle was the nunnery of St. Eanswith, destroyed during the Danish ravages, and afterwards replaced by the Benedictine priory, which in its turn Avas removed near the site of the present ch. St. Eans- with, daughter of King Eadbald, who is himself .said to have founded a ch. ded. to St. Peter at Folkestone {Cap- grave'), was one of the many canoTi- ized Kentish princesses, and her muniery, according to Tanner, v.-as the finst female religious house esta- blished in Saxon England. Her sister ^dilberge was at the head of another at Liminge (about 5 m. N.), founded after her return from Northumbria with Paulinus in 633. Fragments of Saxon arms and pot- terj', marking the site of a Saxon cemetery, have been found here in the Bail ; " one of many proofs that the Christian missionaries established their churches not unfrequently near the places of burial of the imcon- verted Saxons." — • Wright. There may have been, as jMr. Wright sug- gests, another reason for the esta- blishment of Eadbald's church and Eanswith's nmmery here; if, as seems probable, there was a deserted Roman settlement at Folkestone, its ruined buildings furnished ready materials for the mason. The piers, enclosing the harbour of Folkestone, were commenced in 1808, and the work was carried out by Telford, the father of modem engineering. The liarbour, however, was not rendered available until the opening of the railway in 1814, when it was cleared from its accumulation of shingle, and at once rose to im- portance. The views from the pier extend to Shakespeare's Cliff E., and across the marshes to the Fairlight Downs above Hasting;;, W. Eastward stretches away tlie French coast, the flagstaff on the heights at Boulogne being distinctly visible in clear weather. A submarine chain of rocks, only 14 ft. under low water, extends from Folkestone quite acro.ss to Bou- logne. Along the .shore, between Folke- stone and Hythe, the yellow horned poppy {Glaucium luteum) grows in abundance. Scraped upwards, says ancient folklore, its root is a power- fid emetic ; downwards, an excellent cathartic. The neighbourhood of Folkestone abounds in interest for the geologist. At Cojjf Point, beyond Eastweir I5ay. Kent. Route 7. — Sandgate. — Castle Hill. 141 •with its picturesque clift's, is a very fine section of the gault, wliich lui- (lerlies the chalk and upper green- sand. Ammonites, belemnites, nau- tili, and other characteristic fossils of the gault, may here be procured in plenty, the constant slipping of the clitf affording the greatest facility for its examination. " At Copt Point the lower greensand rises from be- neath the gault, and the line of junc- tion of the two beds is well defined on the face of the cliff thence to Folkestone. A layer of coniferous wood occiu's just above this luic of junction." About 2 m. from the town is a cludyheate spring, more beneficial than agreeable. Walks from Folkestone may be — along the clifi" to Sandgate, 2 m., commanding noble sea- views. Sand- gate is a small bathing-jjlaceof some reputation, with a very picturesque country inland. Its Castle, on the site of an earlier one, was one of those built by Henry VIII. for the defence of the coast, on the same plan as its brothers at Deal and Walmer. It was somewhat altered in 180G, when the Martello towers were constructed here. At the same time an encampment was formed at Shorncliff, between Sandgate and Hythe, which soon became of im- portance. Sir John Moore trained many of the old PeuinsiUar regi- ments here. Barracks were subse- quently built, which, during the late war, were appropriated to theForeign Legion, reviewed on the Downs above by Queen Victoria in the autumn of 1855. About 2 m. N. of Folkestone, and seen 1. from the railway, is a re- markable series of conical chalk- hills, almost all of which are crowned with ancient tumuli or with iutrcnch- ments. The two largest are Sugar- loaf Hill and Castle Hill. The first is crested with a large low barrow, occupying precisely the favourite position for that of a Saxon hero. A road has been cut into the side of the hill, and winds roinid to the top. At the foot is a spring called St. Thomas's Well. Castle Hill, or Cjb- sar's Camp, which "the country l^cople " in Lambarde's time " as- cribed to King Ethelbert, the first godly king of this shyre," has on its summit "three lines of intrench- nieuts, of which the first encloses a very considerable space of a long oval form. In the S. end, seaward, is a 2nd intrcuclinient, rising imme- diately witliin tiie former, but leav- ing a large open area within the outer intrencluneut to the N. Within the inner iutrenchment again, on the highest jioint of the hill, is another circular intrencluneut, closely re- sembling (thougli not so large) that which encloses the pliaros at Dover. In fact, after examining Dover Castle closely, its original intrenchments seem to me to have borne so close a resemblance to the so-called ' Cae- sar's Camp ' on the liill I am de- scribing, that I am inclined to believe that this latter also was the site of a Roman pharos, that served as a guide to the sailors ai:)proacliing the coast."— Wright. Roman tiles and pottery have been fomid Avithin these intrenchments, and " there are many inequalities in the ground which seem to indicate the sites of former buildings." Roman biu-ial lu-ns have been found in the field below. From all these hills noble views are com- manded. Cherry Garden Valley, below Cae- sar's Camp, has scattered among its ashes some very ancient cherry and apple trees, on the original planters of which the visitor may speculate. There is a small inn here, where re- freshments may be procured. Cherifon, 2 ra. W. of Folkestone, has an E. E. ch. of some interest. The sea-view from the churchyard is very picturesque. 1^2 ni. bevond is Beachhorough (W. Brockma'n, Esq.). On a hill ad- joining the house is a summer-house (wliich strangers are allowed to visit) 142 Eoute 7. — Sicingfield. — Paddlesvcorth. Sect. I. commanding very fine and extensive land and sea views. The retmu may be made to embrace Newington, where the ch. deserves a visit. The font is cased in carved oak, like that of Saltwood. Brasses : Thos. Chyl- ton, 1501. John Clark, vicar, 15U1. Eicliard Rigge and 3 wives, 1522. From the Downs above Hythe, about 1 m. beyond Newington, there is a magnificent view S., ranging over the marshes to Hastings. l^Longer excursions may be made, to Hythe, 5 m., and thence to Salt- wood and Lymne (see ante) ; to Sa-iiuifiehl 3Iinnis, H m. N., -where are the remains of a Preccptory of the Knights of St. John ; and to St. liadirjiDid s Abbey, 5 m. (see post). The exciu-sion to Sicingfiekl will take the tourist among the chalk- hills N. of Folkestone, a picturesque district abounding in small Norm, churches. The Preceptorij, a farm now called St. John's, lies at the further end of the Minnis, or Common (Celt. 31ynys — a stony heath), and just beyond the ch. The principal remains, at the E. end of the present house, are those of the chapel, and are Tr. Norm, and E. E. At the E. end are 3 lancets with 3 circular openhigs in the high-pitched gable above them. Other portions of the original build- ing remain worked into the house, and shoidd be examined. A Com- niandery of Kniglits Templars cer- taiidy existed here early in the reign of Henry II., though by whom it was originally founded is unknown. On the dissolution of the Order of the Temple in 1312 their lands at Swing- field were granted to the Knights of St. John. Eich. de Swingfield, Bp. of Hereford, a native of this place, d. 1316. He is said to have trans- planted a little colony of Swingfield men to Hereford. Either in going or returning the churches oi'Acrise, Paddlesicorth, and JIan-hlnrfe maj- be visited. Acrise, 1 m. W. from Swingfitld, has a rich Xorm. chancel arch. Brass: Mary Haymen, 1001. Acrise Court (T. Papillon, Esq.) is an early brick mansion of some interest. Paddlesicorth, on very high ground, S., is also Norm. The chancel arch has been removed. The doorways, N. and S., shoidd be noticed, and the colmnn which supports the font. One of the latest chmx-h- warden glorifications to be found in England is suspended against the N. wall of this ch., which is said to be the smallest in the county. It was anciently attached to tlie Church of Lijiiiinge, the adjoining parish E., where a nunnery was founded by ^dilberge, daughter of King Etliel- bert, and wife of Edwin of Northum- bria, after her retm-n to Kent with PaulinusinG33. She died at Lj-minge, and was interred in the ch., which must probably be regarded as the primitive Cliristian church of all this district. The nunnery disa]ipeared at an earlj' period. Lyminge Church, which is of various i^eriods, and may perhaps repay examination, is dedi- cated to St. Mary and St. ^cUlberge ; and that of Paddlesworth to St. Oswald of Northumbria, whose fate and character must have had an esj^ecial interest for .^ildilberge, the probable foundress of the ch. Ly- minge lies about J m. off the line of the lloman Stone Stix-et. The eh. and nunnery here are mentioned in charters of "Wihtred of Kent (697) and Cuthred of Kent (804). — KemlAe, Cod. Dip. i. Huiclcinge, 2 m. E. from Padilles- worth, is not so interesting as the other two, though parts are probably Norni. These churchts, like most others throughout the district, are veiy small. The Peiqi. Chmx-h of Elham, N.E. of Acrise, is an excep- tion, as is that of AJkham, -where is an interesting E. E. chancel with a trefoil-headed arcade.] Beyond Folkestone the line enters on the chalk, and passes through a series of timuels and deep cuttings. Kkxt, Ro lite 7 . — Do ver — Situation . 143 between which are pleasant gUmpses of the sea, rt., and of the picturesque country, 1., to Dover. Tiie whole course here is a series of en£;ineeriug triumphs. The Abbot's Cliff Tunnel, 1940 yards (1^ m.), is the longest on the line. It is ventilated by side- galleries opening in tlie face of the clitf. Between this and the long tunnel under Shakespeare's Cliii" the railway crosses the site of the Bound Doivn Cliff's, a mass of chalk, 300 ft. long, 375 ft. high, and 70 ft. in average thickness, tlie whole of which, during the construction of the line, was removed by gunpowder, fired by means of enormous galvanic batteries, under the direction of Gen. Pasley, E.E., Jan. 2U, 1843. Long galleries, with shafts and cham- bers, were constructed in the clitf; 18,500 lbs. (180 barrels) of powder were placed in them, and, after the discharge from the batteries, the rock, without any violent explosion — "a low munuur lasting liardly more tlian half a second " — " glided like a stream into the sea," distant about 100 yds. from its base. About 18 acres were covered with the chalk fragments, which were aftenvards used in the formation of tlie sea- wall. For a short notice of this most successful operation, communicated by Sir John Herschel, see the Athe- nxum for 1843. Passing the tunnel under Shake- speare's Cliff (1331 yds. in length — nearly 1 m.), the line sj)eedily reaches ' 88 in. Dover (Pop. 20,000). Inns : The Lord Warden, built by the S. E. Kail. Compy., close to the pier, and honoured by royal and imperial visitors. The "Shiii, old, excellent, and celebrated by siuidry tourists and novel-writers. Dover Castle in Cla- rence Place. Gun Hotel, Sliorn Street, cheap and tolerably good. Dover has been famous for its " long l)ills" and extortions from the days of Erasmus, who declui-es that all the boatmen liere were tliieves, to those of Don Juan, who [ " here saw Albion's earliest, beauties. Thy cUirs, dt'.ar Dover! harbour, and hotel; Thy custom-house, with all its delicate duties ; Thy waiters running mucks at every bell ; Thy packets, all whose passengers are booties To tliose who upon land or water dwell; And last, not least, to strangers uninstructed. Thy long, long bills, whence nothing is de- _ ducted." There is still great room for im- provement in the matter of tlie lulls, though the contrast between thorough English comfort and the arrange- ments of a continental hotel may dis- jjose the returning traveller to look on their high charges with somewhat less displeasm-e, — "And doubtless, as the air, though seldom sunnj', Is free, the respiration's worth the money." The town of Dover is bustling and fidl of movement. The shops are good, and the ranges of new ter- races, eastward, very pleasant. No idea, however, of the beauty or of the general situation of Dover can be obtained until the visitor has climbed either the Castle Hill or the Western Heights. The town it- self lies in the valley between them, down which runs the little stream of the Dour (Dwr, Brit., water), giving its name to the Ivoman port and town of Dubra', whence the modern Dover. The walls and gates of this Koman town have been traced. Lit- tle is recorded of Dover during the Saxon period, and the Northmen do not seem to have trou]>led it. It was burnt and suffered much at the CoiKpiest, but afterwards soon rose in importance. The castle was en- larged and strengthened, and nu- merous chm-ches and religious houses were built in tlie town below. Dover 1)ecanie one of the "Keys of Eng- land '■ (tlie lock and key — "clavis et repagulum regni"— it is called by Matt. Paris), and the strength of its castle, which enabled Hubert de Burgh to hold out during the siege by Louis of France (1216), in all probability saved England from a French dynasty. On this occasion 144 liOute 7. — Dover — History. ?ect. T, Philip Augustus swore by ' St. James's arm " tliat iiotliiiig was done till Dover was gaiued. After the battle of Lewes, 12G4, when Ileiuy III. was defeated by the barons, his son Prince Edward and other pri- soners were confined in this castle. Edward was freed the next year, and afterwards besieged the castle, setting at liberty his friends, who, in the mean time, had risen on the ground and taken the keep. During the civil war Dover Castle fell by stratagem into the hands of the Parliamentarians, who retained it in spite of many Cavalier assaults. On the night of Aug. 1, 1G4'2, a merchant of Dover named Drake, an eager Parliamentarian, scaled the cliff on the side next tjie sea with a few followers, and, before the garrison were on the alert to repel them, threw open the gates. The king's party tried in vain to re- cover it. Numberless are the great person- ages who at different times have landed or sailed from here. From Dover Eichard I. embarked for Pa- lestine in 1189. In 1382 Anne of Bohemia, the bride of Richard II., arrived here. The sea "fell into fmy " immediately after her land- ing, and the ship she had left was dashed to pieces. The Emperor Si- gismuud, in 1-llG, landed at Dover to mediate between Henry V. and France. Here in 1520 Hemy VIII. embarked in his "grete shipiie, ' the Harry Grace-de-Dieu, for the Field of the Cloth of Gold ; and here, two years later, the Emperor Charles V. landed, and was received on the beach by Wolsey. King Henry him- self arrived the next day, and the two monarchs rode hence in state to Canterbury. HenriettaMaria landed here as a bride in 1625, and in 1G42 again sailed from Dover on her de- partin-e for France, having taken leave of Charles I. in the castle. Charles II. iirst touched English groimd at Dover on his restoration, May 27, IGGO, and was received by General >\Iouk under a canopy erected on the beach, the mayor at the same time presenting his Majesty with a " large Bible with gold clasj^s embossed." From the castle clitis and from the beach "an innumerable company of gazers " beheld the fleet of William of Orange, as, Nov. H, 1G88, it passed the straits, "sjaread- ing to within a league of Dover on the N. and of Calais on the S., so that the men of war on the extreme 1. and rt. saluted both fortresses at once. The spectacle, says Rapin, was the most magniflcent and afi'ect- ing ever seen hy Innnan eves." {Muc- aukuj, ii. 482.) Louis XVIIL, after his English exile, left Dover for France, April 23, 1814 ; and the allied sovereigns landed at Dover, from Boulogne, on the Gth of Jun(^ in the same year. Prince Albert arrived here on the occasion of his marriage ; and not the least remark- able landing that has taken place at Dover was that of the Emperor and Empress of France in April, 1855. The first great point of interest in Dover is the Castle, rising grandly on its clitf opposite the station. It is at all times accessible to visitors, and persons are always at hand to act as conductors, if desired. The vaidts and underground works alone are not shown without an express order. The castle has been entirely remodelled since 1780, and the plans of Roman and Saxon fortifications, so often published, are all from Lyon's 'Hist, of Dover,' 1813, who says they were made before the alterations. They are, however, of little service, and all that can be gathered from them is the fact of the gradual extension of the defences, till the entire hill was surrounded by Norman walls and watch-towers. In spite of much alteration, it is still a very perfect type of a Norman castle, with keep, inner and outer courts or bailevs, gate, and watch- IvENT. Route 7. — Dover — Castle. 145 towers. The morit important por- tions still existinff will be best de- scribed in regular order. The size of the Eonian Castellum is uncertain ; it ])robubly took tlie place of an earlier Briti^ih strongliold to which Pennant thought " the vast foss in the remotest part of the precinct " might have belonged. This circular entrenchment, how- ever, is now considered a part of tlie Eoman work ; and within it stood the famous lighthouse which guided tlie Imperial galleys into tlie port below, or lent its tlickcring glare to tlie British oyster - boat, as, laden with the spoils of the Eutupine coast, it passed through the straits toward the opposite harboin- of Bovdogne. This Flutros, attached to the ruined ch., iS. of the keep, is the onlj^ frag- ment of Roman masonry remaining. The wall, like tliat of its sister light at Gessoriacum (Boulogne), is composed of a casing of flints and tufa, with bonding-courses of large Roman tiles, filled up in the inte- rior witli smaller stones and mortar. Owing, perhaps, to some difficulty in procuring tiles, Folkestone rock cut tile-shape is occasionally used in the bonding-coiu-ses. The Pharos is octagonal without, and squared within, each side being about 14 ft. The windows are said to have been altered liyBp. Gundulf in the course of his Norman additions. The arms on the N. side are those of Lord Grey of Codnor, constable about 1259. The Pharos is now used as ii government storehouse, and the )niblie an" tlicrefore not achnitted to the interior. The ruined Church adjoining, of which the origin is traditionally given to the shado\vy king Lucius, is probably Saxon in parts, the re- mainder Norman. "The ]:)ortal and window-arches seem copied from those in Ihe Roman tower. The most ancient portions may be of the middle of the 7th cent., "the proba- ble founder being the Kentish king Eadbald, d. 640." (Bhxnm.) The walls are interspersed with Roman bricks and tiles. This ch., cer- tainly one of the oldest Cliristian ediiices in tlie countj', deserves as much attention as ca7i be given to it; but like the pharos, to which it leads, admission within its walls is not readily granted. The walls of the later fortress were thickly planted with watch-towers, for the most part mere shells, open to the court within. The greater part have been destroyed. Of those re- maining, and of the larger gate- towers, the most remarkable, besides the keep, are Constable's, Peverell's, the Arntuches, and the Cotton. CoHs/((/>/e"sTower, sometimes called Fiennes,iti that by which the outer balliinn of the castle is entered, after ascending the steep flight of steps from the town. It is said to have been the work of John de Fiennes, the first constable after the Con- iiuest. No traces of Norman work however remain. The unaltered por- tions arc Edwardian ; V)nt sashed windows and modern chimneys are not improvements outwardly, how- ever agreeable they may be to the Lieut. -Governor, whose residence is in this tower. Beyond Constable's Tower (rt. on entering) is Feverell's Tower and gate. The upper part has been re- mov('d. "V^^lat remains is perhaps temp. Edw. I. It had drawbridge and moat, now filled up, and guarded the entrance to the keei>court or inner ballivnn. In an angle of the outer wall, at some distance 1. from Constalile's Tower, is the Avranclies or de Alirin- r/'s Tower, the probable work of William de Abrineis(temp. Stephen), and " one of the most perfect and curious Norman edifices existing." The foundations are below the bottom of the deep ditch on the N.E. side. The wall. 10 ft. tliick, is raised to a level with the upper UG Route 7. — Dover — Castle Sect, I. balliiim. There is a gallery in the thickness of the wall, with a plat- form for archers behind apertures, on all five sides of the tower. In the tower is an arched room or recess, open in front, in which weapons were deposited. Above this chamber is a platform into which the gallery in the wall opened. This tower com- manded an important angle of the fortifications, and was therefore con- structed with unusual care. The Colton Tower and Gate exist in a ruined condition at the angle W. of the Pharos. The shield of arms in front is that of Lord Burghurst, who commanded this tower temp. Edw. III., and who probably then restored it. The Jveep remains. The founda- tion walls, 24 ft. thick, are said to have been laid by Henry of lilois (afterwards Henry II.), grandson of Henry I., on arriving from Normandy for the relief of Wallingford Castle, about 1153. Anotlier tradition (for it is nothing more) asserts the arclii- tect to have been Bp. Gundulf of Eochester, the builder of IJoehester Castle and of tlie White Tower of London. The Dover keep has three stories. The first had originally no entrance except from the story above. In it is a hall-, 50 ft. square, divided by 3 massive arches and pillars. Nar- row flights of steps ascend to the loop- holes, which are at the top of the walls. The second story was entered by a flight of steps on the S.E. side, which were altered when the modern entrance was made below. Here is the Chapel, with Norman arches and mouldings, and two large apartments, each 50 ft. by 25 ft. There are galleries in the walls. In the third story are the state apartments : tlie stairs leading to them were strongly guarded with gates and a portcullis, and at the sides are concealed galleries for archers. At the top, on the left of the entrance to the apart- ments, is a well descending tlu-ough the thickness of the wall, A plummet gives a depth of 293 ft., but great part of the well was filled witli rul^bish bj' French prisoners confined here during Blarlborough's campaigns. This well was long called " Ctesar's," and is no doubt the same whicli Harold, on his Norman visit, iinder- took to deliver to the Conqueror, to2:ctlier with the castle itself. The view from the N. turret, IGS ft. above the sea-level, is magnificent. The line of clifls between the two Forelands, and the French coast from Boidogne to Gravelines, are traceable in clear weather. The distance to the tower of Notre Dame, Calais, is 2G m., to Dunkirk 4(J, Those " aditus insulfc mirificis moli- bvis muniti," which well-nigh baffled Cresar, of which Cicero writes to Atticus, and which suggested the masses of rock that accompany the figure of Britannia on Roman coins (first occurring on a large brass of Hadrian), are nowhere better seen or more impressive. Arthur's Hull, on the N.E. side of the keep-court, is now converted into mess-rooms and a range of barracks. In the Lesser Hall, or Guinerer's Chamher, on the opposite side of the court, now destroj'ed, certain stores of salt and wine, "which," says Kil- burne, "by long lying had become as thick as treacle," • used to be pointed out as " Julius Ca3sar's," to whom tradition assigns the building of the castle, equally with the other " Towers of Julius," on the lianks of the Thames. Here also was shown a brass horn called Cicsar's, and said to have been used " for calling his workmen together." The stores, it has been suggested, may have been part of tliose collected here by Heniy YIII. before his French ex- pedition. Near the edge of the castle cliff is a brass camion, cast at Utrecht in 1514, and afterwards presented to Queen Elizabeth by the States of Holland. It rejoices in the name of " Queen Elizabeth's Pocket Pistol," Kent. Houte 7. — Dover — Churches. U7 is 24 ft. long, and is covered with devices representing tlie contrasts of peace and war, which no people were better able to appreciate than the givers. It is further graced by a Dutch verse, to this efl:Vet,— "O'er hill and dale I throw my ball, 'Breaker,' my uame, of mound and wall." A popular rhyme which runs — • " Load me well and keep me clean, And I '11 carry a ball to Calais Green " — is supposed to refer to this gun, which is now much honeycombed and useless. Anotlicr famous piece of ordnance was long sho\vn here called "Basilisco," and said to have been given by Charles V. to Henry VIII. From this spot (Doc. 1784) Jef- fries and Blanchard "set sail" in their balloon, and after a i^erilous crossing alighted safely on the oppo- site side of the straits, in the Foret des Felmores, near Guines. The visitor should make a pomt of getting a view of the castle from the sea, when he will ujiderstand how it came to inijiress the minds of strangers arriving in England so forcibly as to give rise to the belief that it was built by evil spirits. " A cacodajmonibus extructa," says the Bohemian, Leo von Eotzmital, in 1446, "adeo valida et munita ut in nullo Cliristianorum provincia par ei reperiri queat." The excavations in the chalk clifl' on which the castle stands were made* toward the end of the last century, when the fortifications were completed nearly as tliey exist at jDresent. Casemates for lodging 2000 men, and magazines for provisions and powder, are formed in tlie clift", which is honeycombed in all direc- tions with long galleries and cliam- bers. Air is supplied through brick funnels. This part of the castle is not shown without an order from the governor. We may now descend into the town. Of the Clmrches, only two remain in use. St. Mary's, in Cannon Street, has recently been almost re- built. The Norman (':*) tower is re- markable. Until the late alterations the mayor and corporation occupied here the ancient position of the bishop with his jiresbyters, and had seats at the E. end, hehiud the altar. They are now happily compelled to take a lower place. In this ch. are monumental inscriptions for Foote, the dramatist, and Churchill, neither of Avliom were buried here. Foote died at Dover, in tlie Ship Hotel, Oct. 21, 1777, and was interred in the cloisters of Westminster Abbej'. The inscription for Churchill cele- brates him as " the great high-priest of all tlie nine." St. James s, in St. James's Street, has a Norm, doorway. The Chancery Court for the Cinque Ports was formerly held in the S. chancel. It seems to have been even more vexa- tious in its proceedings than its great prototype. Here is a monu- ment for Sir Nathanael Wraxall, tlie well-known diarist ; and here also are buried tlie father and grand- father (Simon and Philip Yorlce) of Lord Chancellor Hardwicke, who was born at Dover in IG'JO. The house occupied by his parents is still pointed out in Snargate Street (on the N. side, about half-way down). Tlicre are fragments of St. Mar- fht's-le-Graud behind the market- place. In its churchyard was buried Churchill the poet, who died at B(nLlogne,17<j4. His tomb still exists,, with the edifying motto from liis own ' Candidate,' " Life to the last enjoyed, here Churchill lies." It was here, at the " grave of one who Ijlazed the Comet of a season," that Bvron wrote his well-known lines, recording " the old sexton's natural homily. In which there was Obscurity and Fame, The Gloiy and the Nothing of a Name." "The grave of Churchill," says Sir Walter Scott, " might have called from Lord Byron a deeper com- 148 Route 7. — Dover — St. Martins P. rionj. Sect. I. luemoration ; for, although they generally diflfered ia character and genius, there was a resemblance be- tween their history and character. . . . Both these poets held themselves above the opinion of the world, and both were followed by the f\ime and popularity which they seemed to despise. . . . Both carried their hatred of hyjjocrisy beyond the verge of prudence, and indulged their vein of satire to the borders of licentious- ness. Both died in the flower of their age in a foreign land." The modern chapels are Trinity and Christ Church, the last good E. E. It is nearly opposite the ancient Priory of St. Martins, of which the story is as follows. The College of St. Martin for 22 secrdav canons, which had been at first esta- blished in the castle, was removed into the town by Withred King of Kent (700). They were exempt from episcopal jurisdiction, and subject only to the Pope and King of England. They were moreover wealthy ; and an extreme jealousy early arose between them and the archbishops, wlio were anxious to bring them imder the control of the great Canterbury Priory, and who at length succeeded in obtaining a grant from the king of the whole lands and revenues of the canons. Abp. Cor- boil immediately built (1132) the priory of whicli the ruins now exist, and placed in it certain canons from Merton. The old canons, thus ex- pelled, complained to the king ; Init after a series of ecclesiastical squal)- bles the archbishops had their way, and the priory became Benedictine, like that at Canterlmry. The site, with the greater part of the lands, still continues attached to the see of Canterbury. The refectory and part of the dormi- tory remain, and are used as farm- buildings. The refectory, now a barn, is nearly perfect, and is part of the original foundation. It has 8 win- dows and (j buttresses N. and 7 S. Its extreme dimensions arc 107 ft. by 34, the walls being 3 ft. 6 in. thick. The original entrance was on the S. side, but is now blocked up with- out. An E. E. entrance, also blocked up, is visible on the same side. The interior is very striking, and shoidd not be left unseen. The wall is blank to the height of 12 ft. G in., above which an arcade is carried quite round the apartment. The 2 arches next the E. end are pierced for windows to light the high table ; after them every alternate arch is pierced, producing good effects of light and shade. On the wall at the E. end, under the arcade, are faint traces of a mural painting of the Last Supper ; some of the nimbi surrounding the heads may still be made out. Of the mof, the central bay is perhaps 15th cent, work ; the rest is modern. The work through- out is very plain, but massive. The principal gateway is Dec. and very picturesque. Foundations of the large and mag- nificent ch. were laid open in 1844, when the ground was levelled : some portions of the plan may still be traced. Under an apse, on the S. side of the chancel, were found 24 silver coins of Henry II. There was a considerable library in the priory. Of the priors, one, Richard, succeeded Becket as arch- l)ishop, and was the " Canterbury " in whose lap "York" sat down at Westminster dming the famous fight for precedence. Suffragan bishops of Dover existed from 1537 to 1597. Tlie Maison Dien, now the Town Hall andSessionsHouse, was founded by Hubert de Burgh as a resting- place for strangers and pilgrims, who had hitherto been entertained by the canons of St. Martin's. Much land was attached to it. In this meditcval " Lord Warden " the Kings of England used to lodge in their way to and from the continent. Tlie present Town Hall is a part of the ch. attached to tlio Maison Kent. Iloute 7. — Dover — Tlarlour 149 Dieii, wliich was built by Henry III. after the foundation had been re- signed to him by De Burgh. Henry was himself present at its dedication in 1227. Examples of religious edi- fices thus converted to secular piu-- poses are rare iu England, though common enough on tiie other side of the Channel. In this hall are pic- tures of sundry Dover worthies, and of persons otherwise connected with the town — Elizalieth, Anne, Charles II., William III., Wellington. The Old Court Hall, in the market- place (date 1607), has some cm-ious grotesques on the pillars supporting it. Beyond is the Museum (built 1848). It is open to the public, and contains a good collection of natural kistory ; some local antiquities — Roman tiles, urns, &e. ; Saxon brooches and bracelets ; bronze weapons, and seals connected \vith Dover. There is also a stone, with mason's mark, said to have come from a church of the Templars, wMch, as tradition assert.s, once existed on the western heights, and in which, it is added, took place the famous scene of King John's re- signation of his crown to Pandulph. But although the manor in which the heights are situated certainly belonged at one time to the Tem- plars, there is no authoritj' wliatever for the existence of a ch. here ; and King John's resignation occurred either at Swingtield or at Temple Ewell, about 3 m. from Dover, on the Canterbury road (see Rte. 11). These Heifjhts and Batteries, be- yond the town, W., are more ele- vated than the castle ; and the whole position was formed during the years preceding the peace of 1814, when more than once the camps of France and England were in sight of each other on the opposite shores. Gravel walks are carried all along the heights, and tlie view from them across the town to tlu: castle is very striking. The barracks here have a com \^K.e,nt & Sussex.'] grand old munication with the town by a mili- tary shaft entering from Snargate Street. " Three spiral flights, of 140 steps each, wind round a large shaft or tower, open at the top to admit light, and .59 more reach the barrack-yard. " The tunnel of the E.Kent railway (not yet completed"!, 680 yds. long, passes under these heiglits tti reach the Dover terminus. A deep valley separates these heights from Ilau or Shalcspeare's Cliff, " whose high and bending head Looks fearfully on the confined deep." It is now 350 ft. above the sea- level ; but, although ti;iUs are of freqixent occurrence, and the height has perhaps diminished, it is only possible to repeat Wordsworth's wonder (' Memoirs,' vol. ii.) that any one shoidd have imagined the famous description in ' King Lear ' to be, or to have been intended as, an accurate cojjy from nature. At what time the name of " Shak- speare's Cliff " began to be applied to this jiarticular headland does not ' appear : the wild larkspur grows in the crevices, and samphire may yet be gathered there ; but there are no choughs, and the crows are much larger than beetles. Still, " the murmuring surge That on tlie unnumber'd idle pebbles chafes " has an eclio of a grand music, and the turf cresting the white cliff is scarcely less haunted ground than the glades of Windsor or the green banks of Avon. The Harbour of Dover formerly extended some way up the Charlton valley, and has gradually retreated, owing to dtHiris brought down from the hills, and the effects of a shift- ing bar of shingle, which frequently closed it altogether. Dover is the only one of the ancient Cinque Ports which still exists as a har- bour ; but it would long since liave shared the fate of its brethren, had 150 Boute 7. — Dover — Harhour of Refuge, Sect. I. it not becu for the large and im- portant works wliicli have been undertaken here at tlifferent times. Henry VIII. commenced an enor- mous pier, stretching 20 rods further into the sea than the present pier- heads, which remained vmfinislied at his death, and soon became quite ruinous. The loss of Calais greatly affected Dover, and the town was re- duced to considerable distress, when Raleigh reported that an improved harbour there would be of great ser- vice, since " no i^romontory, town, or haven in Europe was so Avell situ- ated for annoying the enemy, pro- tecting the commerce, or seniling and receiving despatches from the Continent." Fresh works were ac- cordingly commenced by Elizaljeth, and continued by James I. ; and by dint of these and later operations the harbour has been kept open. The outer harbour, and the Fent or eastern basin, were much enlarged by the Harbour Commissioners in 18-14, and a quay-wall has since been carried round the latter. The sea- walls lately constructed in the bay form convenient promenades, while they also perform tlieir more im- portant duty of stopping the en- croachments of the cliannel. The Harhour of liefnge (Messrs. Walker and Bm-ges, engineers), which was commenced in 18-17, has been of infinite service. The pas- sage of lieacli from the westward, in front of tlie harbour's month, which was formerly a cause of great trouble and expense, now no longer takes place, since it is effectually stopped by the mass of masonry which every year is extending itself further and further into the sea. About 600 acres of the bay will be enclosed, in a large portion of which tliere will be a depth of water suihcient for men-of-war of the largest size, with ani])le si^ace nearer the shore for Bmaller vessels. The double object of a convenient low-water landing for steamboats, and a i^ort of refuge for wind-bound vessels, will there- fore be attained. The large concrete blocks used for blocking up the granite facing of the walls are worthy of notice ; they were made on the spot by steam-machinery, specially designed for the purpose. The diving opera- tions also are carried on on a larger scale than has hitherto been at- tempted ; the solid mass of masonry, upwards of 80 ft. in width at the base, being raised from 45 ft. Ijclow low water as far as the surface, by means of diving-bells, and thence by the ordinary method. The land- ing jetties formed on both sides of the pier supply what Dover had long rerpiired — a deep-water laiiding- Ijlace for vessels at all times of the tide. Dover is the chief pilot-station of the Cinque Ports, having attached to it 50 pilots employed in the Channel service. Government steam- ers cross from here daily to Calais and Ostend. The first submarine telegraph ever undertaken was laid down be- tween Dover and Cape Grisnez, in August, 1850. This cable, however, broke in consequence of fretting on a ridge of rocks under the Cape ; and a second was connected with the French coast at Sangatte, about 2 m. nearer Calais. Another cable crosses from here to Ostend. The wire is insidated by means of gutta- percha. No other substance woidd have answered the pm'pose, so that it may be said " that the instanta- neous interchange of thought be- tween distant nations awaited the discovery of a vegetable production in the forests of the Eastern Archi- pelago " {Sir F. Head). There can ))e little doubt tliat the countries now united by tliese sub- marine cables were at one time con- nected by an isthmus which was gradually broken through by the action of the sea. "The greatest depth of the straits between Dover Kent. Route 7. — The Cinque Ports. 151 and Calais is 29 fathoms, wliicli only exceeds by 1 fathom the greatest depth of tlie Mississippi at New Orleans." {LyeU.) Desmarest, wlio gained a prize essay on this subject in 1753, attributed the rupture of the ancient isthmus to the i^repou- derating violence of the current from tlie north. The bathing at Dover is said to be dangerous, owing to the sudden shelving of the beach, which is so great as to prevent the use of horses for the machines. Accidents have more than once occmred. There are fixed baths on the j^arade. Excursions may be made from Dover to St. Radigund's or Bradsole Abbey, 3 m., founded 1101 by Jeffrey and Thomas, Earls of Pertli, for Pre- monstratensian monies. Tlie prin- cipal gateway, part of which may belong to the original foundation, remains nearly peribct, though much covered with ivy. The chapel and some domestic buildings, now con- verted into a farmliouse, also remain. Of this last " the facings of the wall are ciuious from the variations of pattern in tlie flint and Caen stone " {Eev. A. Ilusseij). The ground be- neath the ruins is pierced with long subterranean passages, which have not been thoroughly explored. The abbey stantls on high ground, and commands a good view of the beau- tiful valley of Poulton. Adjoining is a large pond, in Kent called a "sole" — a true Saxon word — from which the abbey was named. 2 m. on the I^ondon road is River, a picturesque and old-fashioned vil- lage, worth a visit. In the neigh- bourhood is Kearsucy Abbey (J. M. Fector, Esq.). For other interesting places within reach of Dover, see the present Route {ante) and Etes. 10 and 11. A short notice of the Cinque Ports, of which Dover is the only one that remains in active service, may perhaps be best inserted here. Dining the later Roman period the Count of the Saxon Shore had under his especial control 9 gi-eat fortresses, which guarded the prin- cipal landing-places on the coast from Yarmouth to Portsmouth. The more recent Cinque Ports are (ex- cept Romney) nearly or altogether identical with 4 of these castles- Dover (Dubrai), Hythe (Portus Le- manis — Lynine), Romney, Hastings — which may be allowed to repre- sent Anderida (Pevensey — a branch of the Hastings port) — and Sand- wich (Rutupiie). Yarmouth (Garia- 110 nam) was also to some extent under the jurisdiction of the Cinrpie Ports. The Cinque Ports are first directly so called soon after the Conquest, when John de Fiemies ap- pears as the first warden ; but it is probable that they existed as a pecidiar community throughout the Saxon i^eriod, and that the liOrd Warden is the natural, if not the direct, representative of the Roman " Comes." Almost all the coast from Thanet to Hastings is (or was) under the control of the Cinque Ports, through the minor ports or limbs, which pro- bably purchased a share in the fran- chises by a fine to the head port, glad, in its turn, to have sharers in the burden of providing ships. 57 was the number of ships to be furnished by all the ports and limbs whenever the king should require them; and in war-time the king supplied a certain numljer of soldiers for each ship. This Cinque Ports fleet was the germ of the Briti.sh navy. With the burden of providing it their great privileges were bound up. They had the entire control of their own towns, all the freemen of wliich were called and ranked as barons. These could only be tried by their peers, before the lord warden, or before the king in person. Thej' were tlischarged from all military duties in the field, and could not be I 2 152 Route 8. — Asliford to Canterhimj. Sect. I, removed beyond their own jurisdic- tion but for the assirstance of each other. The main court, called the " Court of Brotherhood," for up- liolding their privileges and regu- lating the affairs of each port, was held twice a-year — first at Shijiway Cross, nearHythe, and then at liom- ney, as the central port. 7 persons attended from each head port. The barons of the Cinque Ports were rejiresented in parliament from a very early period, and at every coro- nation they bore the canopy over the king and queen, wearing a pecu- liar dress. Tliere were 11 barons attached to each canopj-, which was Ijorne by silver .staves, having small l)ells of silver attached to them. One of the canopies was usually offered after the coronation at the siirine of St. Thomas of Canterl)nry. Tlio bearers dined in Westminster Hall, at the right hand of the king. At what time these privileges commenced is altogether uncertain. The charter of Edward I., long pre- served at Eomney, only confirms tliem. Tlie ancient Custumals of the towns deserve careful attention, and are in some respects peculiar. The mayors are elected annually. If the person elected refused the oath — " to be true to the king, to maintain the liberties of the town, and to do justice to the poor" — at Dover and Eye his house was pulletl down, — at Eomney, Winehelsea, and Hastings, he was turned out with \\\-.i family, and the doors were sealed Vip. A thief taken " back berende " in Dover or Folkestone was thrown from the top of a precipice ; at Sandwich he was smothered in tlie marslies. In all the towns a tub of water was to be j)laced at every liouse-door as a precaution against fire. Copies of these Custumals were kept by tlie lord warden, to whom lay an a])peal from judgment in the mayors' courts. As warden lie is chancellor and admiral of tlie coasts wliere the ports lie. Tlie warden is also constable of Dover Castle — a superior title, and an office which, although now always imited with the wardenshiji, was not so for- merly. The functions of the lord warden, and the special privileges of the Cinque Ports, have been greatly abridged, especially since the " ]Mu- nicipal Eeform Act." The warden still presides, however, at the courts of " Brotherhood " and " Giiestling," now on\y held previous to a corona- tion ; and as admiral of the coast his jurisdiction continues in full force. In this capacity he is the supreme judge of the Court of Lode - Manage, in which pilots are licensed, and complaints heard of their incapacity or ill-conduct. The present .state of tlie Cinque Ports, once the great harbours of England, is remarkable. Eomney, Hythe, and Sandwich are no longer ports at all. Hastings little better. Dovei- alone remains of the larger ports. The lesser, or " limbs," have been somewhat more fortiuiate. Margate, Eamsgate, Deal, Eye, and Shoreliam are still of some import- ance. Winehelsea and Pevensey, however, read even a more striking lesson of change than the main har- bours on which they depended. EOUTE 8. ASHFORD TO CANTERBURY. From Asliford to Canterbury the railway, following the line of an an- cient road which fell into theWatling Street at Canterbury, passes througli the valley of the Stour, bounded on either side by low wooded hills, and about Chilham oti'ering scenery of Kent. much quiet beauty. From the sta- tion at 4 m. Wye, the low tower of the ch. is seen, rt., cresting the rising ground. Tlie ch. here was rebuilt by Abp. Ivempc, who was born at OUantigh in this parish, temp. Hen. yi. It had a central tower, which fell in 1685, destroying great part of the building. The present tower and chancel date from 1706. The Perp. nave is Kempe's. AVye was one of the royal manors granted by the Conqueror to Battle Abbey ; and its manor-house, of which no trace remains, was of sufficient size and importance to receive the visits of many sovereigns. The manor has jmisdiction over 22 hun- cbeds, a proof of its ancient conse- quence. The College, at the end of the vil- lage adjoining the churchyard, was founded by Abp. Kenipe in 1147, who, having rebuilt the ch., made it collegiate, amply endowing it, and ijroviding at the same time for the education of the parish. The present college was the residence of his provost and chaplains. At the dissolution the site passed into the hands of the Crown, and subse- quently through those of various proprietors, until Sir George Wheler, in 1724, gave it by will as a residence for the master of the grammar-school, and for the use of Lady Joanna ThornhiU's charity. The college formed a quadrangle, the lower story of stone, the upper timbered. A large hall occupied one side of the square. This is now the school-room, and the present kitchen was the ancient common room. Some fragments of ancient stained glass remain in the windows of the S. side. Abj). Kempe's school-room ad- joins the clmrchyard, and may be the original one. The teaching here was to be gratis, " except the usual oft'erings of cocks and jience at the Feast of S. Nicholas." lioute 8. — Vy^ye. — EastweJl. lo3 Lady Joanna ThornhiU's school, founded 1708, provides for the edu- cation of the poorest children, and is amply endowed. In the neighbomhood are Spring Grove ( Goldsniidt, Esq.), and OlJurdUjh (J. Sawbridge, Esq.) At Withersdtn, S. of the village, is Ht. Eustace's Well, so named from Eustace, abbot of Flai, who, at the beginning of the 13th cent., preached throughout England the better ob- servance of the Sunday. After his sermon at Wye, according to Matt. Paris, he blessed this fountain, which from that time cmed all diseases. There is atuleralde Jy(/i in the vil- lage, and the neighbouring country is pleasant. The Stour here is fa- mous for its pike. The views from Wye Doicns, part of the chain of chalk hills extending S.E. as far as Folkestone, will repay the labour of climbing them. On the side of the hill above Tremwortli an extensive Roman burial-ground was discovered in 170o, and was afterwards carefully explored by the Rev. Bryan Faussett, in whose col- lection (now at Liverpool) much of the glass and pottery found here is still preserved. [W. of Wye an interesting excur- sion jiiay be made by Boughton Aluph and Eastwell, to Charing (8 m.). The large Church of Boughton Aluph, 2^ m., so named from Alulph de Boughton, lord of the manor tenq). John, will amply repay a visit : the tower is central. From Bough- ton the lower road should be taken to Eastwell Oiurch, in which is bu- ried the " last of the Plantagenets." Richard, a natm-al son of Richard III., is said to have tied here im- mediately after the battle of Bos- worth, and to have supported him- self as a mason, until discovered by Sir Thomas Moyle, who allowed him to build a small house adjoining Eastwell Place, in which he lived and died ( 1550). The parish register 154 Route 8. — Eastwdl. — Westwell. Sect. I. of burial contains the following entry, copied, of course, from an earlier book : — " V. Eychard Plantagenet, Desember 22nd, iuSO." The letter V mailing persons of noble birth tlu-oughout the register. A tomb in the chancel, without in- scription and deprived of its brasses, is said to belong to this offset of the White Eose (but the Earl of Winchelsea told Dr. Brett in 1720 that it was unknown whether he was buried in the eh. or chyard. — See Dr. Brett's letter in Pech s Desi- derata Cttriosa). The house in which Plantagenet lived was destroyed to- ward the end of the 17th cent. ; a modern building marks tlie site. Near it is a spring still called " Plantagenefs Well." The stately tomb of Sir Moyle Finch, and his wife the Countess of Winchelsea (1614), should also be noticed. EashrellParh (E. of Winchelsea), which the road now skirts for some distance, contains some fine park sce- nery (Defoe, in his 'Journey througli England,' declares it was the finest park he had ever seen), especially at the N.W. corner, where tlie high ground commands the sea on either side — Sheeruess and the Nore, N., across the picturesque heights of Challock Wood, and the old forest of the Blean ; and, S., the Channel beyond Eomney IMarsh. The view is a very remarkable one, and the tourist will do well not to miss it. The hill which commands it has its sides covered with wood, through which 8 avenues are cut, called " The Star Walks." The venison fed in this park is considered the finest in Kent. (For an edifying story of the misfortunes which re- sulted from the felling of " a most curious grove of oaks " here, by one of the Earls of Winchelsea, sec Nor- irond, TIandhoul: for Surrey, itc.) The House, which is modern, and has no special interest, replaced that built by Sir Thomas Moyle, temp. Hen. VIII., from whom the estate passed to the Finches, Earls of Winchelsea. It was from here that Lord Winchelsea was summoned by James II. on his detention at Feversham. Close imder the park, N., is the church of Challock. The manor of Westwell, \\ m., belonged to Ch, Ch. Canterbuiy. The ch. is partly E. E., and contains some stained glass of very high in- terest. Tlie E. end is liglited by 3 independent lancets, the centre one of wliicli contains the remains of a remarkably fine Jesse. Two ovals remain; the figure of the Virgin occupying the lower, and that of the Father Almiglity the upper. These have been carefully re-leaded hy Mr. Willement. One of the side lancets exhibits the remains of a beautiful quarry i^attern with a rich border; the otlier, now filled with modern white glass, probably re- sembled it. — C. W. All this glass is E. E. Eipleij Court here was the residence of Alexander Iden, the capturer of Jack Cade, but its an- cient state and " quiet walks " have been exchanged for the bustle of a farmyard. In the year 1.574 a remarkable case of apparent possession occurred at Westwell, and is duly recorded by Reginald Scot {Disc, of Witchcraft, vii. ch. 1). Mildred Norrington, ser- vant to William Sponde, " was pos- sessed with Satan in the night of October 13th." The ministers of Westwell and Kenington were called on to attend the case, and a con- ference took place between them and tlie evil spirit, in the course of which the latter accused "old Alice of Westwell-street " of having killed tliree persons by the aid of the same devil wliieh had taken possession of Mildred Norrington. "Satan's voice," say the ministers, "did difler much from the maid's voice, and all Kej^t. lioute 8. — Charing. — Chilham. 155 that be spake was in Lis own name." Tlie " ventriloqua " of Westwell, as Master Scot calls her, was liow- cver siieedily discovered, and the "cosenage confessed." "Hags and witches," he continues, " will in time to come be as much derided as Eobin Goodfellow and Hobgoblin be now," — a prophecy which has yet to be ful- filled, so far as the remoter districts of Kent are concerned. From Westwell the road passes along the chalk downs to Charing, 3 m. The chief point of interest here is the Archbis]i,o2j's Palace, the ruins of which are considerable. The great gateway, which remains, opened into a coiu-t, partly surrounded by offices: fronting it was the entrance to the palace itself, some part of which has been iitted up as a dwelling-house, and at the back are remains of the chapel. The greater part of the ruins are early Dec. (but the work is very poor), and few traces remain of Abp. Morton's work, who is said to have much enlarged the palace, temp. Hen. VII. Charing was one of the earliest possessions of the church of Canter- bury, and the archbishops had a re- sidence here long before the Con- quest. It was much favoured by later prelates, and both Henry VII. and Henry VIII. were frequently lodged here in their progresses. The latter rested at Charing on his wav to the " Field of the Cloth of Gold ;" his other halts, after leaving his own palace at Greenwich, being Otford, Leeds, and Canterburj^ all at that time archicpiscoijal palaces. The king did not forget their splendour, and Charing, among others, was subsequently resigned to him by Cranmer. The Church, which has some few E. E. and Peip. portions, is princi- pally later than 1.590, in which year the greater part of it was accidentally burnt. It long contained a remark- able relic — the block on which John the Baptist was beheaded, brought into England by Eichard I. Charing stands on a line of ancient road, perhaps British, which joined that running through the valley of Ashford to Canterbury. In many parts of its course, as is the caso about 5 m. N. of Charing, it is known as " The Pilgrims' Way," and is traditionally said to be that followed by the i:iilgriras to Canter- biu-y coming from Southampton and the western counties. Traces of it are found throughout Kent, Suri-ey, and Hampshire, " marked often by long- lines of Kentish yews, usually creep- ing half way up the hills, immedi- ately above the line of cultivation, and under the highest crest, passing here and there a solitar)' chapel or friendly monastery, but avoiding for the most part the towns and villages and the regular roads, probably for the same reason as, in the days of Shamgar the son of Anatli, 'the highwaj^s were tmoceupied, and the travellers walked through by- ways.' " (Stanley, H. Mem. ; and the line is carefully traced in a note appended.)] Beyond Wye the scenery on either side of the railway increases in beauty ; 1. is the richly wooded park of Godmersham (Edward Knight, Esq.) The eh. is seen from the rail (see posf). 9 m. Chilham . rt. and immediately above the station is Julaber's Grave, a lofty mound, maikecl by a clump of fir-trees. It is an artificial bar- row, and earlier antiquaries sug- gested that ics name was a coiTuiitiou of "Julius Laberius," 1. e. of the name of Laberius, the tribune of Julius Cffisar, killed in tlie second expedition, dming the battle at the river, the scene of which was conse- quently fixed at Chilham, and the moimd called the grave of Laberius. By others it has been pronounced the grave of Cilia, the Saxon founder of Chilham. After more than one examination, however, no trace of 150 Route 8. — Chilham Sect. L sepiilclutil deposit has been dis- covered. "Julaber" seems identical with " Jidiau's Bower," itself per- haps a corruption, brit found in con- neetion with ancient eartliworks and " labyrintlis " at Applel'v in Lincoln- shli-e, and elsewhere. (See Stuheley, Itin., p. 91.) Julian's Bowers are sometimes called "Troy Town;' and games were held at them, perliaps connected with tlie midsuiumer festi- val. Similar earthworks are known as " Gallantry," or " Gallant's Bower," in some of the western counties. The view of the valley of Ashford from this mound is very fine. 5 m. from the station, 1., are tlie village and castle of Chilham. (J. B. "Wildman, Esq.). There is a tolerable coimtry inn here (the Woolpack) which the tourist may make his centre for a day or two with advantage. The Castle, of which the remains arc shown on application, was surrounded by a deep fosse, enclosing about 8 acres. At the N. W. angle stands the ancient keep, octagonal, and 3 stories in height. This is late Norm. Other portions of the castle seem to have been used in the construction of the modern houses which have suc- cessively occupied its site. The castle of Chilham replaced a Eoman Castrum, which here over- looked the valley of the Stour. Many Komau remains have been discovered here ; and, in building the present house, ancient founda- tions were found at a great depth, together with Eoman vessels, of dif- ferent sorts, in metal and pottery. This first castle, according to general tradition, was the residence of Lu- cius, the Brito-Roman king, who is said to have become a Cliristian convert, a.d. 189, and to wliom the earliest foimdation of Canterbury ca- thedral is attributed. (For a care- ful discussion of this question see a paper byMr. Hallam in the'Arcli- ajologia.' After his conversion Lu- cius is said to have become a hermit at Coire in the Grisons, wliere his relics are still sliown in the cathe- dral.) Chilham sixbsequently passed into the hands of the Saxon kings of Kent, by whom the castle was much strengthened. After the Con- quest it was granted to a Norman knight named Fulbert. He assumed the name of De Dover (the lands having been granted to him for the defence of Dover Castle), and the line of his descendants expired in Isabel de Dover, Countess of Athole, who died here in 1292, and whose tomb remains in the undercroft of Canterbury Catliedral. Through the great house of Badlesmere, and many others, it at last came to Sir Thomas Cheney, Edward VI. 's Warden of the Cinque Ports, who pulled down the greater part of the ancient l^uildings, in order to complete his mansion at Shurland, in the Isle of Sheppey, witli the materials. At the beginning of the 17th cent. Chilliam became the property of Sir Dudley Digges, who built a new residence here — that which now exists. It was completed in lGl(j, and is a fine specimen of James I. architecture. From his descendants it passed to the Cole- brooks in 1752, and thence to the Herons and Wildmans, the present possessors. The Church is Dec, with a later clerestory, and belonged to the Priory of Throwleigh, a cell of the Benedictine Abbey of St. Bertin, until the suijpression of alien houses, Avhen it was granted to the monas- tery of Sion. Tlie S. chancel has been appropriated to the illustration of the house of Digges, wliose monu- mental display here deserves atten- tion. An obelisk rises in the centre of the chancel, having a sehjction from the cardinal viitues arranged about its base. Temperance and Fortitude are especially commended to the attention of the curious. Ob- serve also the pillar to Lady Digges, " in imitation of that set up by Jacob Kent, RouU 8 . — Chartham . 157 over Eaclicl." The N. cliancc4 has been rebuilt, in imitation of a Ro- man cohnubariiim, witli circles for in- scrij^tions instead of m-n-niehes, and is appropriated to the Colebrooks. In the main chancel is a momunent by Chantrey, for T. Wildman, Esq., whicli the visitor is not boinid to admire unless he chooses. A monu- ment here to one of the Fogg family, and another to a Lady Digges in the N. transept, are unusual. Both are early 17th cent. work. They are of marble, covered with minute arabesques and diapered patterns, worked in the stone itself. The views over the valley of the Stom- fi-om the castle, and from the high ground above the village, are of great beauty. The tower of Wye, and farther on that of Ashford, are good landmarks. The park which surromids Cliil- ham Castle is of some extent ; but although it commands a more exten- sive view, and has in it some noble old trees, especially chestnuts, it is not perhaps so picturesque as a whole as that of Godsmershani (Edward Knight, Esq.), which adjoins it E. At the S.E. end of this park, close to the river, are the Chm-eh and vil- lage of Godmersham. The Church, with the manor, belonged to Ch. Cli. Canterbiu-y. A short distance N. is the old manor-house of the Priors, much altered, but still retaining a very interesting fragment of 13th cent, work, probably due to Prior Henry de Estria, who repaired the house here about 129U. There is a doorway, now built up, with good mouldings, and in the upper part a figure of the prior, with mitre and crozier. The cylindrical chimney in the gaV)le adjoining is of the same date, and apparently re'tams its original cap])ing. {Hudson Turner.) Tlie hall and the other parts of the building were pulled down about 1810. The very interesting Church of Chartham, about half way between Chilham and Canterbury, and seen rt. from the rail, must be visited from the latter city, 3J m., since there is no station here. The nave is jjartly E. E., the chancel Dec. (toward the end of Ed- ward 11. 's reign), and has 4 windows on either side, the tracery of which is very beautiful and unusual. The E. window is the double of one of tlic side windows. Examples of this Iieculiar tracery, which has been called " the Kentisli," occur in tlie hall windows at Penshurst, in the chapel windows at Leeds Castle, and in the windows of tlie hall at May- field, Sussex. Observe the trefoil moulding which comiects the win- dows within. Some of the original stained glass remains, and deserves careful notice ; the red and green vine-leaf pattern bordering the lights is especially graceful. On the N. side is an unknown tomb, probably tliat of the builder of the chancel, and on the floor the very fine brass of a knight of the Septvans family, an excellent example of armour, temp. Edw. II. : on his shield, surcoat, and aillettes or shoulder-pieces, are 3 wheat screens or fans, the arms of the Septvans. The mailed coif is tlirown back from the head. The " hauketon " of leather, appears at the wrists, and again below the ringed hauberck. The " polejus" or knee-ijieces are highly ornamented. There are 3 smaller 15th cent. Brasse» for rectors of Chartham. Between the nave and chancel are trefoil-headed hagioscopes. In the S. transept is an elaborate monument by Eysbrach for Sir William Young and his wife Sarah Fagg ; and adjoining are other re- cords of the Faggs of Mystole, all of whom it appears " exemplarily satis- fied the ends for which they were born." The N. transept contains the monument of Dr. Delangle, 1724, a French refugee, who became canon of Westminster and rector here. The whole of this ch., but especi- I 3 158 Route 8. — Canterhwy. Sect. I. ally the chancil, deserves the most careful exaiiiiuation. The village of Chartham is built round a green, on one side of which is the " Delangle House," built by the Doctor, and marked by a bust of Charles II., with sceptre and cushion, iu a niche over the entrance. At the back of the village is a large pajier- mill, the smoke from which is con- spicuous throughout the whole valley. In 1668 one of the first discoveries of enormous fossil bones which at- tracted the attention of the learned was made at Chartham in sinking a well, and gave rise to various specu- lations. On the Downs above the village, W., are some relics of a mmiber of tumuli called Danes' Banks, the greater part of which were examined by Mr. Faussett. S. of the tumuli the Downs are marked by entrench- ment lines which cross them from E. to W. The visitor may return to Can- terbury by a pleasant field-path, which will Ining him to Harbledown, above the city. About half way, and in the lower ground, is the farm- house of Ttiniford, where are some remains of a mansion originally be- longing to an ancient family of that name. The gateway arch is early Perp. and very gracefvd. In the ruined wall, which seems to have en- closed a quadrangle, and in tlie wall of the present liouse, are fragments of circular towers, which are probably earlier. Sir Thomas Browne, 27 Hen. VI., obtained leave to " em- battle and empark," and the later work may be his. The house was moated. In returning to Canterbuiy by the road, the little desecrated Church of Horfon is first past, 1., now used as a barn, but containing a curious Dec. roof. Beyond is Milton (E. E.), and next Thaiiinyton, very rude E. E., witii a low square tower at N. side of nave, and 2 lunceta in the E. gable instead of the usual .". In the churchyard is a large yew. Both these churches are dedicated to the great Norman patron, St. Nicholas. From the railway, beyond Chart- ham, tliese churches are seen rt. ; 1. is the high ground of Harbledown, with its jjicturesque old hospital, after passing which the train rapidly reaches 14 m. Cunterhury (Pop. 18,000). Hotels : the Foimtain (best and dearest) ; Rose (very good) ; Fleur de Lys. (The Red Lion is perhaps the most ancient. In it Charles V.'s ambassadors were entertained by the town iu 1520 ; but it may be questioned whetlier Dr. Dryasdust, however enthusiastic, would be con- tented with its present accommoda- tion. It may here be mentioned that "Canterbury brawn" enjoys a considerable and deserved celebrity.) The station is without tlie city ; and in entering it, through the suburb of S. Dunstan's, fitting asso- ciations are at once suggested to the visitor by the galdes of the Star Inn fronting him as he turns into the street. This, which has lately been repaired, was an ancient hostel with- out the walls, for pilgrims who ar- rived after the gates were closed at nightfall. The interior is entirely altered. The W. gate, beyond, by which the city is entered, is the work of Abp. Simon of Sudbury (1374-1381), who repaired the greater part of the city walls, then fallen into decay. The most important portions of these walls now remaining are in Broad Street, where two or three of the turrets or small watch-towers, orderly placed, are still nearly per- fect. There were 6 gates, of which the W. gate alone now exists, thanks to a judicious town council, wlio, having jjulled down the rest, thought it prudent to leave this as an attrac- tion for archffiological visitors. The upjier ])art of the gate, together with the building adjoining, serves as the city prison. The whole character of Kent. Route 8. — Canto-bury — Ilidory, 159 the city -witliin in ancient. Gabled ends and projecting fronts rnn np the Higli Street ; and altliongli Mr. Euskin points out their diminutive- ness as compared with the grander masses of an old continental town — (as Sorbiere (1665) had done be- fore — " The houses are low, and the stories scarce higli enough for a man of middle size, who can touch the ceiling with his hand ")— there are hero and there ramblmg latticed fronts, behind which we may ima- gine David Copperfield's Agnes, and openings thi'ough narrow lanes to- ward the catliedi'al and its pre- cincts, as picturesque as the most ex- acting artist can possibly demand. The island which the Stour here formed in its windings, and its i")osi- tion just at the point at which the 2 estuaries (the greater Stoiir here, and the lesser about Bridge 2 m. distant) ceased to be navigable, were the probable reasons which induced the Britons Of Kent to fix their chief town here. The Koman city, Diiro- vernum (perhaps from the Brit. Dur Guairn, "the Alder river," or Dur Gwern, " the river of marshes "), which took its place, seems to have been irregular in form, covering nearly the whole of modern Canter- bury. Of the mode of its first occui^a- tion by the Saxons we know nothing ; but in their hands it at once became Cavfivarahyrig, Canterbury, " the stronghold of the men of Kent." (Some interesting notices of its con- dition at this time will be found in Wriyht's ' Celt., Hum., and Sax.,' ch. last.) After the arrival of Augus- tine (597) and tlie conversion of Ethel iDcrt, Canterbury rose in im- portance as the spot from which the rest of England was to be chris- tianised, and afterwards as the me- tropolitical cih". It was eclipsed, however, on the extinction of the kingdom of Kent, by the royal cities of London and Winchester ; and in spite of tlio great reputation of Aljps. Lanfranc and Auselm, Can- terbury itself was comparatively little heard of, until the murder of Becket in the cathedral (1170) lifted it at once to an equality with the most sacred shrines of Europe. St. Augustine, the former patron saint, gave place to the new martyr. The 3 Cornish choughs in Becket's coat were inserted in the shield of the town, and the common seal ex- liibited the verse — ' Ictibus immensis Thomas qui corruit ensis 'Tutor ab oilt-usis urbis sii Cautuariensis." From this time " Candelberg," as our German cousins were pleased to call it, became imiversally cele- brated. Pilgrims from all parts of Christendom hastened to pay their vows at the tomb ; and " Cantorbiere, la cite vaillante," took its jjlace in the verses of the Romancers, side by side with Cologne, "la Mirabel," and Compostella, the city of " Mon- seigneur S. Jacques." But the story of Canterbury is best read in the great buildings which still remain. The visitor who desires fuller in- formation than can be given here must provide himself with 3Ir. Stanley's 'Historical Memorials of Canterbury' {Murray), and I'rofessor WiU/s's ' Architectural Hist, of Canterbury Cathedral ' (Longman). From both we have borrowed largely. Placing ourselves in the position of Canterbury pilgrims, we may now approach the Cathedral. At tlie W. corner of Mercery Lane, opening from the High Street, stood the hostelry called the Checquers of the Hope, at which Chaucer's company reposed themselves. It was built (or at all events enlarged) for the especial accommodation of pilgrims by Prior Chillenden (1390-1411). " The stone arches of the windows extending down Mercery Lane formed part of its lower story. The first opening W. of the lano shows part of the court into which the pilgrims rode. Its upper stories were entirely composed, like houses 160 Route 8. — CiUiVniiury — Cathedral. ^ect. I, in Switzerland, of massive timber, chiefly oak and cliesnut." lu the liiglicst, " approached by stairs from the outside, which have now dis- appeared, a spacious cliamber still remains, supported on wooden pil- lars, and covered by a high-jjitchcd wooden roof, traditionally known as the Dormitory of the Hundred Beds." Here wo may imagine the Miller and the Ileve and the Ship- man reposing, whilst the more dis- tinguished pilgrims sought quarters within the great monastery, or in other religious houses. Mtreenj Lane itself takes its name from the shops and stalls which lined it, in which the pilgrims sought memo- rials of their visit, principally leaden brooches representhig the mitred head of the saint, with the inscrip- tion " Caput Thomae." These and the " Ampulles" of water distri- buted within the cathedral were the great marks of a Canterbury pilgrim, as the scallop-shell was of Compostella, or the palm-branch of Palestine. From these mercer)'- stalls King John of France, on his return fi'om liis captivity, bought " a knife for the Count of Auxerre." At the end of Mercery Lane was the ancient nish-market, in which stood a great cross, gilt and painted. AVe are now at the gate of the pre- cincts. No English cathedral more com- pletely dominates over the svu-round- ing town than Canterbury. " Tanta magestate sese erigit in coilum," says Erasmus {Pereg. Relig. ergo), " lit procul etiam intuentibus reli- gionem incutiat." It has all the imjiressiveness of some great natural feature, rock or mountain, in the midst of a comparative!)' level dis- trict. It must not be forgotten that it served at once as the metro- political ch., and as that of a great monastery : for as in the case of all missionary churches, Augustine es- tablished a convent here in con- nexion with his cathedral. Lanfranc, after the Conquest, compiled a strict' rule for it and the other BenedictiBe monasteries throughout England. It was known as the Convent of Christ's Church, and the massive wall by wliich it was surrounded, rendering it a fortress within a fortress, served at once for defence and for seclusion. This exterior wall was greatly strengthened by Lanfranc, and some portions still re- maining are probably of his time. The prmcipal entrance is Prior Gold- stone s Gate, commonly called " Christ Church Gate," at the end of Mer- cery Lane, built 1517, and a tine example of late Peip. The central niche was filled by a figure of Our Saviour, and the defaced bearings oo. the shields below were those of con- tributors towards the work. The battlements with which the gate was originally crested were taken down not many years ago. Passing within it, we enter the precincts of the Cathedral. The site on which it stands is the same on which stood the primitive Roman or British church attributed to King Lucius, and granted by Ethelbert to Augustine, "the first instance in England, or in any of the countries occupied by the bar- barian tribes, of an endowment by the State— the earliest monument of the English miion of Church and State." Eadmer expressly tells us that it resembled in its arrange- ments the old Basilica of St. Peter's at Rome, destroyed in the IGth cent, (see Willis, for an interesting comparison of the two). As at St. Peter's, the altar was originally at the W. end, witli the episcopal throne behind it : there was also in both a crjqjt lu imitation of the ancient catacomljs in which the bones of the ajjostles were originally fouiid, the first beginning of the crypt which still exists at Can- terbuiy. These arrangements may either have been made by St. Augustine Kent. Route 8. — Canterbury— Cathedral. 161 greatly injured of Cauterburv himself, or by Abp. Odo (940-960), who restored the roof and walls of the ch. The building remained un- covered for 3 years, during Avhich time, says Eadmcr, no rain fell within its sacred enclosm-e. The renewed ch. was during the sack by the Danes (1011), when the " beata monachoruni plebs" were massacred, and Alip. Alphege carried oif to Greenwich, where he after- wards shared their fate. Canute re- paired it in expiation, hanging up his crown in the nave, and restored the body of the martyred Alphege to the monks. The ch. was com- pletely burnt down during the troubled times of the Conquest (10G7), together with the many bulls and privileges of kings and popes contained within. Of this first or Augustine's chm'ch, no fragment re- mains. There are memorials of it in the name of the cathedral (Christ's Chm-ch), agreeing with Bede's state- ment that Augustine consecrated the Koman chm-ch he found in Can- terbury "in nomine S. Salvatoris Dei et Domini uostri J. C. ;"' in the present cnjjA, which succeeded the earlier one ; and in the southern porch, which is the principal entrance at present, as it was in the Saxon ch. Lanfranc, the first archbishop after the Conquest (1070-1089) found his cathedral ch. completely in ruins, pulled down the few remains of the monastic buildings, and recon- structed both ch. and monastery from their foundations. Under Anselm, the next archbishop (1093-1109), the eastern part of this ch. was taken down, and rc-erected with far greater magnificence, by the care of Ernulph, prior of the monastery. His suc- cessor, Prior Conrad, finished the chancel, and decorated it with so much splendour that it was hence- forth knowia as " the glorious Choir of Conrad." The ch. thus finished was dedicated by Abp. William in 1130. "Henry King of England, David King of Scotland, and all the bishops of England, were present at this dedi- cation, the " most famous," says Gervase, " that had ever been heard of on the earth since that of the Temple of Solomon." It was in this ch. that Bccket was murdered (1170), and in the "glorious Choir of Conrad" that his body was watched by the monks during the succeeding night. 4 years later (1174) this choir was entirely burnt down. " The people," says Gervase, himself a monk of Ch. Ch., and an eye-witness of the fire, " were asto- nished that tlie Almighty should suft'er such things, and, maddened with excess of grief and perplexity, they tore their hair, and beat the walls and pavement of the ch. with their hands and heads, blaspheming the Lord and his saints, the patrons of his Church," — a frenzy rather Italian than English, but curiously illus- trating the fierce excitability of mediaeval times. The rebuilding was intrusted to William of Sens, an architect of " lively genius and good reputation," who, beginning in Sept. 1174, continued the work till 1178, when, just after an eclipse of the sun, which Gervase sc^cms to intimate had something to do with the accident, " through the vengeance of God, or spite of the devil," he fell from a scaffolding raised for turning the vault, and was so much injured that he was compelled to retmu to France. Another William succeeded him as master architect, "English by nation, small in body, but in workmanslr'p of many kinds acute and honest." Under the care of English William the choir and the eastern buildings beyond it were completed in 1184, 10 years from the burning of Conrad's Choir. Lanfranc's Nave still remained ; but was taken down, and a new nave and transepts were built, under Prior Chillendeu, the works extending over the years between 1378-1410. The great central tower, at least 162 Route 8. — Canteruury — Cathedral. Sect. I. tliat part of it which rises above the roof, was added bv Prior Goldstone II. about 1495. The present cathedral consists either of "portions or of the whole of these diifereut works, from the re- building by Lanfranc, to the death of Prior Goldstone, a period of more tliau 4 centuries. It thus exliibits specimens of nearly all the classes of pointed architecture, tlie principal being Trans. -Norm, and Perp. Its gradual enlargements, under Anselm and later, as well as its general ar- rangements, arose mainly from the great wealth of relics possessed by the ch., and the necessity of finding shrine-room for displaying them. The Saxon ch. contained the liodies of St. Blaize (bought by Abp. Pleg- mund at Rome " for a great sum of gold and silver.'' Is it from this time that he becomes the patron of the English and Flemish clotli- workers '?) ; St. Wilfred, brought from Eipon, ruined by the Northmen in 950 ; St. Dunstan, St. Alphege, and other sainted archbishops of Can- terbury ; St. Audoen, or Ouen, of Kouen, brought to Canterbury by 4 clerks about 957 (there was un- fortunately another body at Pi ouen); besides the heads of St. Swithin, St. Furseus, and others, and the arm of St. Bartholomew. All these were enclosed in various altars, and in different chapels, and were carefully removed from the rained cli. by Ijanfranc. Tliey were replaced in the new cathedral, where other similar treasures were added to them, and where they were at last joined by the greatest of all, the martyred St. Thomas of Canterbury. It should also be remarked that the existing cathedral, altliough of such various dates, covers, as nearly as can be ascertained, the same ground as the original building of Lanfranc, wth the exception of the nave, which is of greater length westward. We may now enter the cathedral, thronged with remembrances of almost eveiy reign in English his- tory. Nearly all the archbishops, " alterius orlDis papse" (the words are first applied by Pope Pasclial II. to Abp. Anselm), iDcfore the Reform- ation are buried here, and most of their tombs remain. " There is no ch., no place in the kingdom, with the exception of Westminster Abl^ey, that is so closely connected with the liistory of our couiitry." (Stanley.) Tlie principal entrance is still, as in Augustine s church, the S. Porch. In the Saxon period and later " all disputes, from the whole kingdom, wliich could not be legally referred to the King's Court, or to the hun- dreds or counties, ' were judged in the Sutli dure or porch, which was generally built with an apse, in which stood an altar. The present porch is part of the work of Prior Cliillenden, about 1400. On a panel above the entrance Erasmus saw the figm-es of Becket's 3 murderers, " Tusci, Fusci, and Berri," whom lie describes in his Colloquy as sharing the same kind of honour with Judas, Pilate, and Caiaphas, when they appear on sculptured altar-tables. These have quite dis- appeared. In the portion that re- mains is still traceable an altar sur- moimtcd by a crucifix, between the figures of the Virgin and St. John : beside it are fragments of a sword, marking it as the " Altar of the Martyrdom." The arms over the vaulting of the porch are probably those of contributors towards tlie rebuilding of the nave : among them are England and France, the See of Cauterbmy, Chichester, and Com- tenay. We now enter the Kctre. The nave of Lanfianc's cathedral, which covered the same ground as that now existing, had in 1378 fallen into a ruinous condition, when Abp. Sudbmy issued a mandate granting 40 days' indulgence to all contri- l)utors towards its rebuilding. Tlie work was continued under his two Kext. JRoute 8. — Canterbury — Cathedral. 163 successors, Abps. Courtenay and Arundel, the architect being proba- bly Thomas Chillenden, prior of the convent. The nave dates therefore from about 1380. Chillenden died 1411. " The style is a light Peqi., and the arrangement of tlie parts has considerable resemblance to that of the nave of Winchester, although the latter is of a much bolder character. Winchester nave was going on at the same time with Canterbury nave, and a similar un- certainty exists about the exact commencement. In both a Norm, nave was to be transformed, but at Winchester the original piers were either clothed with new ashlaring, or the old ashlaring was wrought into new forms and mouldings where possible ; while in Canterbiuy the jiiers were altogether rebuilt. Hence the piers of Winchester are much more massive. The side aisles of Canterbury are higher in proportion, the tracery of the side-windows dif- ferent, but those of the clerestory are almost identical in pattern, although they difier in the manage- ment of the moiddings. Both have ' lierne" vaults, and in both the triforium is obtained by prolonging the clerestory windows downward and making panels of the lower lights, which panels liave a plain opening cut through them, bj' which the triforium space communicates with the i^assage over the roof of the side aisles." {WilUg.) The first impression, however, difters greatly from that of Win- chester, mainly owing to the height to whicli the choir is raised above the crypt below, and the numerous ste^js whicli are consequentlj' neces- sary in order to reach it from the nave. In this respect Canterbury .stands alone among both English and foreign cathedrals. These stately " escaliers," combined with the height and grandeur of the piers, lireakiug up from the pavement like some natural forest of stone, have always produced their effect even in the darkest anti-gothic pe- riod. " Entering in company with some of our colonists just arrived from America .... how have I seen the countenances even of their negroes sparkle with raptures of ad- miration!'' {GostUng's Walk, 1770.) Here the pilgrims waited, admiring the " spaciosa asdiflcii majestas," and deciphering the painted win- dows, until the time came for visit- ing the great shrine. " The nave contained nothing," says Erasmus, " excejit some books chained to the pillars, among them the Gospel of Nicodemus, and the tomb of some unknown person." This must have been either the chapel in the S. wall, afterwards called Dean Neville's, built in 1447 by Lady Joan Brench- lej, and removed altogether in 1787, or the tomb of Abp. Wliittlesea, d. 1374, now destroyed. The Gospel of Nicodemus had been printed by Wynkyn de Worde in 1509. Of the nave stained windows none remain entire, the great W. window having been made up of fragments from the others. In this, under the i^oint of the arch, are the arms of Richard II. imj^aling the Confessor's, those of Anne of Bohemia on N. side, and of Isabella of France S. The memo- rial window adjoining it S., and that imder the new tower N., are the work of G. Austin, Esq. ; as ai'e also the windows in the cleres- tory, and that on the S. side — tlie first of a series, having for its subject the Te Deum, which is de- signed to fill the windows of the nave. In the N. aisle of nave are the monuments of Adrian Saravia, the friend of Hooker, who died here a prebendary in 1612 ; of Orlando Gibbon.s, organist to Charles I.; and of Sir John Boys (d. 1G14), founder of the hospital without the North gate. Memorials to ofiioers and men of diflerent regiments engaged in the Indian campaigns have recently been placed against the walls ; and 164 Route 8. — Canterbury — Cathedral. Sect. I. in the S. aisle a recumbent figure of Dr. Bronghton, Bp. of Sidney, an old King's scliolar, in English ala- baster, by Lough. The G panels in front bear the arms of the 6 Austra- lian sees. The piers -which support the central toicer are probably the ori- ginal piers of Lanfranc's erection, cased with Pcrp. -work by Prior Cliillenden at the same time with the building of the nave. To this, Prior Goldstone II. (1495-1517) added the vaulting of the tower, and all the portion above the roof, toge- ther with the remarkable buttressing arches supporting the piers below, which had perhaps shown some signs of weakness. These arches have on them the prior's rebus, a sliield with 3 gold stones. The central arch occupies the place of the ancient rood-loft, and i^robably tlie great rood was placed on it until the Eeformation. The western screen, through which we enter the choir, has no recorded date, but is of the 15th cent. It is very beautiful and elaborate, and its carvings deserve tlie most careful ex- amination. Of the G crowned figures in the luwcr niches, the one holding a ch. is probably Ethelbert, the others are luu-ertain. Figures of the Savi- our and his Apostles originally filled the 13 mitred niches encircling the arch, but were destroyed by the Puritan " Blue Dick" and his friends. The wliole screen, including the figures, has lately been carefidly re- stored. On entering the Choir, the visitor is immediately struck by the sin- gular bend with which the walls approach each other at the eastern end. But this remarkalde featin-e, together with the great length and narrowness of the choir (it is the longest in England), the low- ness of the vaulting combined with the antique character of the archi- tecture, enforced by the strongly con- trasted Piubeck and Caen stone, and the consequent fine effects of light and shadow — all this produces a so- lemnity not unfitting the first great resting-place of the faith in Saxon England, and carries the mind more completely back into the past than many a cathedj-al more richly and elaborately decorated. The choir as it at present exists is the work of William of Sens, and his successor English William (1174-1184), by whom it was rebuilt after the burn- ing of that of Conrad. Gervase, the contemporary monk, supplies full details of all the operations, so that we are enabled to follow the works year by year. (See translation in Willis.) The style is throughout Transition, having Norm, and E.E. characteristics cm-iously intermixed. The pillars with their pier arches, the clerestory wall above, and the great vault up to the transepts, were entirely finished by WiUiara of Sens. The wliole work dilfered greatly from that of the former choir. The richly foliated and varied capitals of the pillars, the great vault with its ribs of stone, and the numerous slender shafts of marble in the triforia, were all novt^lties exciting the great admiration of the moiiks. The Cathedral of Sens must have largely influenced the architect William : it dates from 1143 to 1168, and must have been well known at Canterljury from Becket's residence there during his exile. It has several peculiarities in connnon with Can- terbury ; for exanqjle, double piers, composed of two columns, set one behind the other, foliated capitals, rings on some of the slender shafts, and the same system of vaulting. The mouldings of William of Sens are very varied, exhibiting a pro- fusion of billet-work, zigzag, and dog- tooth — the first two characteristics of Norm., the last of E. E. — a mix- ture of ornaments in accordance with the mixtm-e of round and pointed arches throughout. The triforium exhibits this curiously. Kent. lioute 8 . — Canierhury — Cathedral. 105 the outer arch licing circular, the two inner, which it circumscribes, pointed. The clerestory arches are pointed. The stone vault was one of the earliest, if not the very tirst, constructed in England, and ex- hibits the same mixtiu'e of styles. Some of the transverse ribs are pointed, others round ; the diagonal are all round. William of Sens fell from the upper part of the clerestory wall, a height of 50 ft., whilst pre- paring to tmn the portion of this vault between the transepts. Of this part he directed the completion from his bed, and the work was then re- signed to English William. The remarkable contraction of the choir, at the head of the ch., was rendered necessary from the architect's desire of uniting his work with the 2 towers of 8t. Anselni and St. Andrew, which still remain on either side. These had escaped during the recent fii'e, and, as they were not to be re- moved, they " woiild not allow the breadth of the choir to i3roceed in the direct line" {Gervase). It was also determined that a Chapel of St. Thomas, the new martyr, should be placed at the head of the ch. in the room of the Chapel of the Trinity, which had been destroyed ; but the dimensions were to be preserved ; and as it was much narrower than the choir, this last had to be narrowed so as to coincide mth it. The second transepts already ex- isted in the former ch., and were retained by William of Sens. The best general views of the choir will be obtained ti-om the upper stalls, N. and S., toward the W. end, where the full beauty of these transepts is gained. The effects of light are grand, though it is much to be wished that the whole of the windows in the transept clerestory were filled with stained glass. Colour might perhaps also be introduced with advantage throughout the vaulting itself, which is now some- what cold and ceiling-like. The Screeii surrounding the choir is the work of Prior Henry de Estria (constmctcd 1304-5), and is " valu^ able on accovuit of its well-ascer- tained date, combined with its great beauty and singularity." {TVillis), The entire height is 14 ft. The N. doorway remains perfect ; its central pendant bosses are especially re- markable. The S. door is much later, and is " manifestly a subse- quent insertion." The great height to which the altar is raised was the result of the new crypt vmder St. Thomas's Chapel, E. of the choir, which is miich loftier than the oLler choir crji^t. On the completion of the choir by William of Sens, the high altar stood completely isolated, with- out a reredos ; and behind it, E., was placed the metropolitan^ chair, its ancient and true position, still to be seen in many early continental churches (Torcello iii the Lagunes of Venice is an excellent example). This was afterNvards removed into the Corona, and is now in the S, choir transept. The Reredos, which was erected behind the high altar (probably during the 14th cent.), was destroyed by the Puritans in l(j42. It was succeeded byan elaborate Corinthian screen, which was removed only a few years since, and replaced by the present reredos, " imitated from the screen work of the Lady Chapel in the crypt." The high altar before the Reformation was most richly adorned ; and in a grated vault beneath was a treasury of gold and silver vessels, in presence of which, says Erasmus, Midas and Croesus would have seemed but beggars. The Puritans destroyed " a most idolatrous costly glory cloth," pie- sented by Laud. The existing altar- coverings, of crimson velvet, were the gift of Queen Mary, wife of William III., on a visit to the cathedral. Among the plate is a chalice, the offering of the Earl of IGo Route 8. — Canterlury — Cathedral. Sect. I. Arunilcl, Ambassador of Charles I. to Germany, on bis passing tki'ougb {Canterbury in 163G. The wainscoting •\vhicb formerly concealed the tracery of Prior de Estria's screen lias been removed, except at the W. end. The pews, of the same character, also remain. A Corinthian throne of wainscot, carved by Gibbons, and presented by Abp. Tenison in 1704, has been lately replaced by a lofty canopy of stone tabernacle work, the gift of Abp. Howley. The Orrjan formerly stood over the W. door, but has now been " ingeniously deposited out of sight in the triforimn of the S. aisle of the choir. A low pedestal with its keys stands S. in the choir itself, so as to place the organist close to the singers, as he ought to be, and the communication between the keys and the organ is effected by trackers passing under the pavement of the side aisles, and conducted up to the triforium, through a trunk let into the S. wall " ( Willis). The services are performed with great order and beauty. An especial interest belongs to a small portion of the pavement of the choir, lying between the transepts. It is of a peculiar stone, or veined marble, of a delicate brown colour ; and, " when parts of it are taken up for repair or alteration, it is usual to find lead which has run between the joints of the slabs, and spread on each side below, and which is with great reason supposed to be the effect of the tire of *1174, which melted the lead of the roof, and caused it to run down between the paving-stones in this manner." (^Willis.) This is, therefore, a frag- ment of the original pavement of tlie "glorious choir of Conrad," in which the body of Becket was watched by the monks tliroughout the night following the murder. Within the choir, before the Ee- formation, there were, besides the high altar, the altar-shrines of St. Alphege and St. Dunstan. That of St. Alphege, the Abp. martyred by the Northmen in 1011, whose body was restored to Canterbury by Canute, was on the N. side near the present altar. No trace of it exists. On the S. wall of the choir, between the monuments of Abjis. Stratford and Sudbury, still remains some diaper-work of open lilies, a part of the decoration of Dmistan's altar, which stood there. The bodies of St. Alphege and St. Dunstan, "co- exiles with the monks," after the fire, says Gervase, were re-conveyed into the new choir with great cere- mony. The shrine of Dunstan was opened by Abp. Warham in 1508, in consequence of a dispute with the monks of Glastonburv, who declared that the body of the tongs- wielding saint had been removed to Glastonbury after the sack of Can- terbury by the Danes. A body, however, -svith a plate of lead on the breast, inscribed " Sanctus Dun- stanus," was found on the opening of the shrine. A portion of the saint's skull was then enclosed in a silver reliquiary, made in the form of a head, and placed among the other relics, which, in their ivory, gilt, or silver coffers, were exhibited to the pilgrims on the N. side of the choir. Among them were pieces of Aaron's rod, of the clay from which Adam was made, and, especially precious, the right arm of " our dear lord, the knight St. George." Each of these relics was devoutly kissed, ex- cept by such " Wickliffites " as Dean Colet, who visited Canterbury with Erasmus in 1512. The moniunents in the choir will be best examined from the side aisles. Leaving it again at the W. door of the screen, we follow in the track of the pilgrims, who were usu- ally conducted into the N. transepi, called the Transept of the Martyrdom, through the dark passage under the choir steps. We are now on the Kext. Houte 8. — Canterhurii — Cathedral. 1G7 actual scene of the murder ; but although the transept was not in- jured by the fire which consumed Conrad's choir, it was completelj^ altered by prior Chillenden during the building of the present nave. Lanfranc's ch. had closely resem- bled that of the monastery of St. Stephen at Caen, of which he was abbot, and which was in building at the same time. In the transept of St. Stephen's may still be seen the arrangement which existed in that of Canterbury at the time of Becket's murder. The transept was divided into an upper and lower portion by a vault open on the side of the nave, where it was sui^ported by a single jjillar. In the E. apse of the loaxr part was the altar of St. Benedict ; in the upper, that of St. Blaize. Many of the Saxon archbishops also were buried in the loit-er apse. There was a piece of solid wall iutcrvemng be- tween this apse and two flights of steps, one leading down into the crj-pt, the other up^^■ard into the N. aisle of the choir. In the W. wall a door opened into the cloister. Becket, after the violent scene in his chamber with the knights, was dragged along the cloister by the monks, and entered the transept by this door, which, after it had been barred bj^ his attendants, he flung open himself, saying that '"the ch. must not be turned into a castle ;" and tlie knights, who had followed through the cloister, now instantly rushed into the ch. It was about 5 o'clock, Dec. 29, 1170, O. S., and Tuesday, remarked as a siguificant day in Becket's life, and aftei-wards regarded as the weekday especially consecrated to the saint. The ch. must have been nearly dark, witli the exception of the few lamps burn- ing here and there before tlie altars. Tespers had already commenced, but were thrown into utter confusion I on the news of the kniglits' approach, and, when they entered the cathedral, all the monks who had gathered about Becket fled to the different altars and hiding-places, and there remained with him only Robert, canon of IMerton, his old instructor, William FitzStephen, his chaplain, and Edward Grim, the Saxon monk. They urged him to ascend to the choir, and he had already i^assed up some steps of the eastern flight leading to it, perhaps intending to go to the patriarchal chair at the high altar, when the knights rushed in, and Reginald Fitziuse, who was first, coming round the central pillar, advanced to the foot of the steps, and called out, " "VMiere is the archbishop ? " Becket immediately stopped, and retin-ned to the transept, attired in his white rochet, with a cloak and hood thrown over his shoulders. He took up his station between the central pillar and the massive wall between St. Benedict's altar and the choir steps. There the knights gathered round him, and at first endeavoured to drag him out of the church. But Becket set his back against the pillar, and resisted with all his might, whilst Grim flung his arm round him to aid his efiorts. In the struggle Becket threw Tracy down on the j^avement. After a fierce dispute, in which the archbishop's language was at least as violent as that of the knights, Fitzurse, roused to frenzy, struck ofi" Becket's cap with his sword. The archl)ishop then co- vered his eyes with his hands and commended himself to God, to St. Denys of France, to St. Alphege, and the other saints of the church. Tracy sprang forward and struck more decidedly. Grim, whose arm was still round the archbishop, threw it up to avert the blow ; the arm was nearly severed, and Grim fled to the altar of St. Benedict close by. The stroke also wounded Becket, who after 2 otliers, also from Tracy, fell flat on his face before the corner wall. In this posture, Richard le 168 lioute 8. — Canterbury — Cathedral. Sect. I, Bret, cryiiie:, " Take this for the love of my lord "William, the king's bro- ther," struck him so violently that the scalp or crown was severed from the scull, and the sword snapped in two on the pavement. Hugh of Horsea, the chaplain of Eobert de Broc, who was with the knights, then thrust his sword into the wound and scattered the hrains over the floor. This was the final act. Hugh de Moreville was the only one of the knights who had struck no blow. He had been hokling the entrance of the transept. The four knights then rushed from the church through the cloisters, and re-entered the palace, which they phuidered, carry- ing oft" from the stables the horses, on which Becket had always greatly prided himself. We have now to see how far the existing transept retains any memo- rials of this scene, regarded through- out Christendom as unexampled in sacrilege since the crucifixion of our Lord. And firtit, much of the ori- ginal Norman walls were allowed to remain in the transepts when Chil- lenden rebuilt them at the same time with the nave ; and portions of Lan- franc's ashlaring are still visible on the W. side of the door leading into the cloisters. This is, therefore, the actual door hy which Becket and the knights entered the ch. Next, the wall between the chapel of St. Benedict and the passage leading to the cryi)t, in front of which the archbishop fell, still remains unal- tered : " for the masonry of the 15th cent., which clothes every other part of the transept, does not intnide it- self here, but is cut oft" many feet above." {Willis.') Lastly, there is reason to believe that the pavement immediately in front of the wall is tliat existing at the time of the nnn-der. It is a hard Caen stone, and from the centre of one of the flags a small square piece has been cut out, wliich is saicl to have been sent to Rome. It is certain that such a relic was taken to Rome by the legates in 1173, and deposited in Sta. Maria Maggiore, where a fragment of Becket s tunic, and small bags, said to contain portions of the brain, are still shown. The stone, however, is no longer in existence. In front of the wall, and on a por- tion of the pavement, was erected a wooden altar to the Virgin, called " Altare ad punctum ensis," where a portion of the brains was shown under a piece of rock crystal, and where were exhibited and kissed by the pilgrims the fragments of Le Brets sword, which had been broken on the floor. (The sword worn by Hugh de Moreville was preserved in Carlisle cathedral, and is still to be seen at Braytou Hall in Cumber- land.) In order that this altar might be better seen, the pillar and vault above were removed. The stairs also up which Becket was ascending have disappeared ; but the ancient arrangement, precisely simi- lar, may still be seen in the S. tran- sept. (The cloisters are generally entered from this transept of the Martyrdom. For a notice of them see post.) The great \vindow of the transept was the gift of Edward IV. and his Queen, whose figures still remain in it, together with those of his daugh- ters, and the two princes murdered in the Tower. The "remarkably soft and silvery appearance " of this window is noticed by Winston. In its original state the Virgin was pic- tured in it "in seven several glorious appearances, ' and in the centre was Becket himself, at full length, robed and mitred. This part was demo- lished in 1642 by Ed. Culmer, called Blue Dick, the great iconoclast of Canterbury, who " rattled down proud Becket s glassie bones " with a pike, and who, when thus engaged, narrowly escaped martyrdom himself at the hands of a " malignant " fel- low-townsman, who " threw a stone with so good a will, that, if St. Kknt. Route 8 . — Canterhury — Cathedral. 169 Ilicliard Culmer had not ducked, lie might have laid his own buues among the rubbish. " In this transept are the monu- ments o? Ahp. Fech-ham (1279-1292), temp. Edw. I. (whose marriage with Margaret of France was solemnized by the Abp. on this spot in 1299). Peckhams effigy is in Irish oak. This is the earliest comi^lete monu- ment in the cathedral. Adjoining (a "very handsome specimen of a very common design") is that of Abp. T^'or/iam (1503-1532), the friend and patron of Erasmus, at whose death only 301. were found in his coffers ; " satis viatici ad coelum ! " said the Arclibishop. The site of tlie chapel of St. Bene- dict, to the altar of which Grim fled, is now occupied by the Deaiis or Lady Chapel, built by Prior Gold- stone (1449-G8), in lionour of the Virgin. It has a rich fan-vaidt. In it are the monuments of many of the deans : those of Fothcrhij, a curious specimen of the worst "debased"' taste ; of Dr. Bargrave (d. 1G42), with the copy of a Jansen portrait, now in the deanery ; of Dean Bd/jh, seated in his study : and of Dr. Turner, who attended Charles I. at Hampton Court and in the Isle of Wiglit, are the most remarkable. From tlie transcjit of the martyr- dom we advance into t\ic Nortli Aisle of the Choir, np which the pilgrims were conducted on their way to the great shrine. The walls of the side- aisles, and the choir transepts, were not destroyed by tlie fire which con- sumed Conrad's choir, and althongli throughout altered and enriched by William of Sens, still retain large portions of the original work of Prior Ernulf, by whom the rebuilding of Lanfranc's choir was commenced during the episcopate of Anselm. For a careful distinction between tlie architecture of Ernulf and William of Sens, see Willis. The arcade at the base of the wall in the aisle is Ernulf s, and his piers and arch- j heads were retained in the aisle- windows,'whieh, however, were raised by William about 3 ft. 8 in. In the choir fraufiept, the clerestory win- dows of Eruulf|'s work are the pre- sent triforium windows. The arcade work and monldings here, and the present clerestory windows, are all William of Sens'. There is a marked difference, in the base-mouldings and in the masonry of the vaulting-shafts, between the works of Ernulf and William, the first being much plainer. Throughout, William of Sens, whilst improving and enriching, seems to have aimed at harmonizing his work with Ernulf 's ; hence his mixture of round and pointed arches, and a cer- tain imitation in portions of orna- mental mouldings, purposely kept simple, although very graceful in outline. " Ernulf 's carvings," says Gervasc, " were worked by an axe, and not a chisel, like William's," and the difl:erence can readily be traced. The stained windows in the lower part of the aisle arc of extreme beauty, and deserve the closest at- tention. They are of the same date and character as those in the Trinity Chapel, to be hereafter mentionecl. On the corner of the wall, adjoining the transept, are the remains of a wall-painting representing the con- version of St. Hubert. In the Tran- sept, a memorial-window has lately been placed for Dr. Spry. In the 2 E. apses were the altars of St. Stephen and St. Martin, and over them relics of SS. Swithin and Vul- garius. The bases of the arches, opening into these apses, are William of Sens' work, and very elegant. At the end of the aisle, close to the steps ascending to the retro- clioir, is the door of St. Andrew's Tower, part of Lanfranc's building, now used as a vestry, and formerly the sacristy, in which the privileged class of pilgrims were shown the " wealth " of silken robes and golden candlesticks belonging to tlie ch., Becket's pastoral staff" of pearwood. 170 Route 8. — Canterhiiry — Cathedral. Sect. I. witli its crook of black horn, bis bloody baudkercbief, and a black leatber chest, containing linen rags with wbicli be wiped bis forehead and blew bis uose. All knelt when this chest was exhibited. On the choir side of the aisle are the monuments of Henry Chicheley (1413-1444), the Abp. of Henry V. and of Agincourt, the instigator of the last great war of conquest in France. This monument was erected by him diu-ing bis life, and, like bis college of All Souls, may possibly indicate " bis deep remorse for this sin," which seems also indicated in a letter to the pope. The monu- ment is remarkable in many respects. The small figures in the niches are perhaps of later date. It is kept in repair and colour by the Warden and Fellows of All Soids. Beyond is a recinnbent figvire of Ah p. Howletj, biuied at Addington, for which place this momnnent was originally des- tined. This is the first monument of an arcbbisboiJ placed in the ca- thedral since the Reformation. The great loftiness of the crypt xmder the new Trinity Chapel, I'cn- dered necessary the steep flights of steps by which it is reached from the choir aisles. Up these the pil- grims climbed on their knees, and the indentations on the stones yet tell of the long trains of worshippers by which they have been mounted age after age. At the foot of these stairs were placed receptacles for of- ferings. This " long succession of ascents, l)y which cbiu-cb seemed piled upon cbm-cb," may have sug- gested the byimi to St. Thomas : " Tu per ThomEB sanguinem Ijuem pro te impendit, F;ic iios Christo scandeix Quo Tliomas ascendit." Stanley. The whole of this part of the Ca- tbedi-al, from the choir-screen to the extreme E. end, is the work of English William. It is marked by a lighter character than that of William of Sens, though its main featiu-es are the same. In the side aisles, and in the E. apse or corona, English William's style is best dis- tinguished. His " slender marble shafts" are so detached and com- bined, as to produce " a much greater lightness and elegance of effect than in the work of the previous archi- tect" (Willis), and a single order of mouldings is used throughout. In the ancient chapel of the Tri- nity, burnt at the same time with Conrad's choir, Becket had sung his first mass after bis installation as arcbljishop ; and after the rebuild- ing, this was the spot chosen for his shrine — toward the ancient position of which the stranger first turns, in spite of the stately tombs ai'ound him. The jjlace where the .shrine stood is exactly ascertained by the mosaic of the pavement, a fragment of the " Opus Alexandrinum," with which most of the Roman basilicas are paved (portions of a similar pave- ment remain in Westminster Abbey about the shrine of the Confessor). Some of the zodiac signs may be traced on it. This mosaic was im- mediately in front of the shrine, which stood eastward of it. An indentation in the pavement run- ning for some distance eastward on either side, is thought to mark the limit beyond which the ordinary class of pilgrims was not allowed to advance, and at which they knelt whilst the marvels of the shrine were pointed out by the prior. In the roof above is fixed a crescent, made of some foreign wood, which has not been clearly accoimted for. It probably refers to Beckefs title of St. Thomas Acrensis, from the hospital of S. Jolm at Acre. His intercession was thought to- have driven the Saracens from that for- tress. A number of iron staples for- merly existed near this crescent, and perhaps supported a trophy of flag.s. and spears. On the morning after the mm-der. Kent. Route 8 . — Canterbury — Cathedral. 171 the body of Becket, for fear of tlie knights, who threatened yet furtlier to dishonour it, was hastily buried at the east end of the ci-ypt. Here it remained after his solemn canoni- zation l)y the pope, Alexander II., in 1173, and after the lire of 1174, imtil the new choir and chapels had for some time been completed, and every thing was duly prepared for its translation. This took place on Tuesday, July 7th, 1220, after 2 years' notice circulated throughout Europe, and before such an assem- blage as had never beeu collected in any part of England before. The Abp., Stephen Laugton, with all the monks of the convent, opened the tomb in the vault the night before. The next day, Pandulph the legate, the archbishops of Rlieims and Can- terbury, and Hubert de Burgli, grand justiciary of England, carried on their shoulders the chest containing the bones up to the shrine prepared for them behind the high altar. Nearly all the bishops of the pro- vince of Canterbury were present, and the procession was led by the yormgking, Henry III., then only 13. Of the shi'ine itself, a drawing re- mains among the Cottonian MSS., and it is also represented in one of the stained windows. It resembled that of St. Cuthbert at Durham. The altar of St. Thomas stood at the head of it. The lower part was of stone and on marble arches, against which the sick and lame pil- grims were allowed to rub them- selves in hope of a cure. The mass of worshippers did not pass beyond the iron rails that surrounded it. The shrine itself rested on the marlile arches, and was covered by a wooden canopy, which at a given signal was drawn up, " and the shrine then ajjpeared blazing with gold and jewels ; the wooden sides were plated with gold and damasked with gold wire, and embossed with innumer- able pearls and jewels and rings, cramped together on this gold I ground." (Stanley.) As all fell on their knees, the prior came forward and touched the several jewels with a white wand, naming the giver of each. One was supposed to be the tinest in Europe. It was a great carbuncle or diamond, as large as a hen's egg, called " the Regale of France," and presented by Louis VII. of France, who, said the legend, was somewhat miwilling to part with so great a treasure ; but the stone leapt from the ring in which he wore it, and fastened itself firmly into the shrine — a miracle against which there was no striving. The stone itself bm-nt at night like a fire, and would suffice for a king's ransom. Louis was the first French king who ever set foot on English ground. He had visited the tomb in the cvypt inJ 17i;>, and being " very fearful of the water," he obtained St. Thomas's promise that neither he nor any other person crossing from Dover to Whit- sand or Calais should sufi'er ship- wreck. Here also came Eichard on his liberation from his Austrian dungeon, walking from Sandwich to give thanks to " God and St. Tho- mas." Jolm followed him, and every succeeding English king and their great foreign visitors did repeated homage at the upper shrine. Ed- ward I. (1299) oftered here no less a gift than the golden crown of Scot- land. Henry V. was here on his re- turn from Agincourt. Emanuel, the Emperor of the East, paid Lis visit to Canterbury in 1400 ; Sigismund, Emperor of tiie West, in 1417. In 1520 Henry VIII. and the Emperor Charles V. knelt here together. " They rode together from Dover, on the morning of Wliitsunday, and entered the city through St. George's gate. Under the same canopy were seen both the youthful soven-igns; Carchnal Wolsey was directly in front; on the right and left were the proud nobles of Spain and England; tiie streets were lined with clergy, all in full ecclesiastical cos- 172 Eoute 8. — Canterbury — Cathedral. Sect. I. tume. They lighted off" their horses at the W. door of the cathedral ; Warliam was there to receive them ; together they said their devotions — doubtless before the slirine." {Stan- ley.) Myriads of pilgrims of all coimtries and of all ranks thronged year after year toward Canterbury, " the holy blissfid martyr for to seek," after the fashion of that im- mortal company which sliines in the pages of Chaucer with a glory more lasting tlian that of the " great Re- gale " itself; and churches were de- dicated to him throughout everj' part of Christendom, from Palestine to Scotland. The Vigil of the Translation, July 6, had always been kept as a solemn fast in the English church until 1537, when, a sign of greater changes to come, Abp. Cranmer " ate flesh " on the eve, and " did sup in his hall with his family, which was never seen before." In April, 1538 (such at least was the story believed at tlie time on the Continent), a sum- mons was addressed in the name of Henry VIII. "to thee, Thos. Becket, sometime Abp. of Canterbury,"charg- ing him with treason, contumacy, and rebellion. It was read at the shrine, and 30 days allowed for Becket's aj^pearance ; as this did not occur, the case was tried at West- minster by the attorney-general for Henry II., and by an advocate ap- ])ointed by Henry VIII. for Becket. Tlie first prevailed, and sentence was pronounced tliat the archbishop's bones should be burnt, and the of- ferings forfeited to the Crown. In September this sentence was carried into effect. The bones were not burnt, but buried, the jewels and gold of the shrine were carried oil' in 2 coffers on the shoulders of 7 or 8 men, and the remaining offer- ings filled 26 carts. (The annual offerings at the shrine, at the be- ginning of tlie IGth cent., when tlicy had much decreased in value, averaged about 4000Z. of our money). The " Regale " was long worn by Henry in his thumb-ring. Finally, an order api^eared that Becket was no longer to be called a saint, but "Bishop Becket;" that his images throughout the realm were to be pulled down, and his name razed out of all books. This last injunc- tion was rigidly carried out. " The name of Geta lias not been more carefully erased by his rival brother on every monument of the Roman empire." {Std/ileij.) At this time also Becket's Cornish choughs were re- moved from the arms of the city. His flgm-e, however, was still allowed to remain here and there in stained windows, and fortunately some of those which once entirely surrounded Trinity Chapel were of the number. The windows here and in the Corona should be most care- fully examined. They are of the 13tli cent., and perhaps the finest in Europe, excelling in many respects those of Bom'ges, Troyes, and Cliartres, " and for excellence of drawing, harmony of colouring and purity of design are justly con- sidered unequalled. The skill with which tlie minute figures are re- presented cannot even at this day be suqjassed." Remark espe- cially the great value given to the brilliant colours by the profusion of white and neutral tints. The scrolls and borders surromiding the me- dallions are also of extreme beauty. The 3 windows remaining in the Trin. Chapel are entirely devoted, as were all the rest, to the miracles of Becket, which commenced imme- diately on the death of the great martyr, to whom, as visions de- clared, a place had been assigned lietween the apostles and the mar- tyrs, preceding even St. Stephen, who had been killed by aliens, whilst Thomas was killed by his own. (Bened. de Mirac.) The miracles represented in the medallions are of various characters. The " Lucerna Angliffi," a true St. Thomas of Kan- Kent. Route 8. — Canterhm-y — Cathedral. V. delherg as tlie Germans called him, restores sight to the blind. Loss of smell is recovered at the slu'ine of this " Arbor Aromatica." Frequently he assists sailors, the rude crews of the Cinque Ports in his own imme- diate neighbourhood. At the Nor- way fishing, his figure came gliding over the seas in the dusk, and de- scended biu-ning like fire to aid the imperilled ships of the Crusaders. (Bened. — Hoveden.) In the window toward the E., on the N. of the shrine, is represented a remarkable series of miracles occrn'ring in the household of a knight named Jordan, son of Eisidf, whose son is restored to life by the water from St. Thomas's Well, which, mixed with liis blood, was always carried off by the pil- gi-inis. The father vows an offering to the martyi' before Mid-Lent. This is neglected, the whole house- hold again suffer, and the son dies once more. The knight and his wife, both sick, drag themselves to Canterbmy, perform their vow, and the son is finally restored. (Beiied.) On a medallion in one of the win- dows on the N. side is a representa- tion of Becket's shrine, with the martyr issuing from it in full ponti- ficals to say mass at the altar. This vision Benedict says was seen by himself. Between »the first 2 piers of the Chapel, S. is the monument of Edward the Black Prince, " the most authentic memorial remain- ing of the first of a long line of English heroes." (Stanley.) He had ali-eady founded a chantry in the ci'j'pt, on the occasion of his marriage with the "Fau* Maid of Kent;" and his will, dated June 7, 1376, about a month before his death, contains minute direction for this monimient, and for his interment, which he orders to be in the crypt. For some unknown reason this was disregarded, and he was l3m-ied above ; his tomb being the first in what was then thought to be the most sacred [^Kent & Sussex.^ spot in England. The effigy is in brass, and was once entirely gilt. (See it in this state at Sydenham.) The Plantagenet featmes are trace- able, " the fiat cheeks, and the well- chiselled nose, as in the effigy of his father at Westminster Alibey and of his grandfather at Gloucester." Above are suspended the brass gauntlets, the "heaumedu leopard '" — " that casque, which never stooped except to time " — lined with leather, " a i^roof of its being actually in- tended for use ;" the sliield of wood, covered with moulded leather, the velvet sm'coat with the arms of France and England, and the scab- bard of the sword. The sword itself Cromwell is said to have carried away. Round the tomb are the ostrich feathers with the mottos used by him as his sigu'dtva-e—Houiaont (hocli muth, high spirit), and Ich di.en. On the canopy of the tomb is a represen- tation of the Trinity, reverenced with " pecidiar devotion " by the Prince, and on whose feast he died. It is re- markable from the absence of the Dove usually introduced in similar tablets. Eound the tomb are hooks for the hangings bequeathed in his will — black with red borders em- broidered with " Cj'gues avec tetes de dames." The Prince's will pro- vided that liis body shoidd be met at the W. gate of Canterbury by 2 chargers fully caparisoned and mounted by 2 riders, one to represent him as in war, the hero of Crecy and Poictiers ; the other in black as at tournaments. (See further in Stanley's ' Hist. Mem.') Immediately opposite, N., is the tomb of Henry IV. and of his second wife, Joan of Navarre. The king's will ordered that he should be buried " in the church at Canter- bmy " (he had given much toward the building of the new nave), and his body was accordingly brought by water to Faversham, thence by- land to Canterljmy, and on the Trin. Simday after his death (1-113) the 174 Route 8. — Canterbury — Cathedral. Sect. I. funeral took place in the presence of Henry V., and all the " great no- bility/' Joanna of Navarre died at Havering, 1437 ; and the monument is probably of her erection. The arms are those of England and France, Evreux and Navarre. The ground of tlie canopy is diapered ■with the word " soverayne" and eagles volant, the king's motto and device, and with ermines collared and chained, and the word "atemperance," the queen's. These are transposed, the ermines being above the king's efiSgy. It was asserted by the Yorkists that the king's body had been thrown into the sea, between Gravesend and Barking. There had been a great storm,-and, after this Jonah oii'ering, a calm. " Whether the king was a good man, God knows," said Clement Maidstone's informant. (^Whartmis Am/. Sacra., ii.) The coflSu was, however, brought to Canterljury, and solemnly interred. In consequence of this story the tomb was opened in 1832, in tlie presence of the Dean of Canterbiuy. Two coffins were found, but that of the king could not be removed without injury to the monu- ment above. The upper part was therefore sawed through, and after removing a thick layer of hay, on the surface of which lay a rude cross of twigs, an inner case of lead was discovered ; wliich being also sawed through, the lower half of the head of the body it contained was lui- wrapped from its foldings ; " when, to the astonishment of all present, the face of the deceased king was seen in complete preservation : the nose elevated ; the beard thick and matted, and of a deei^ russet colour ; and the jaws perfect, with all the teetli in them, except one fore-tooth which had probably been lost during the king's life." The whole was re- placed after examination. In the N. wall of Trin. Chapel, beyond this tomb, is a small chantry founded by Henry IV. " of twey preistes for to sing and_ pray for my soul." The fan vault is rich. At the feet of the Black Prince lies Ahp. Ccmrtenatj, the severe opponent of theWickliffites (1396); why buried in this most distinguished place does not appear. He was, however, exe- cutor to the Black Prince, and a great benefactor to the cathedral. E. of Henry IV. is a kneeling figiu-e of Bean Wotton, by Bernini ; the iirst Dean of Canterbury after the foundation of the Collegiate Church by Henry VIII. Beyond Abp. Courtenay lies Odo Coligny, Cardinal Castillion, who, on account of his Huguenot tendencies, fled to England in 15(38, and was favourably received by Elizabeth. He died at Canterbury, on his way to France, poisoned by an apple given him by one of his servants. The great lightness and beauty of the Corona, the extreme E. end of the cathech'al, are remarkable. It is English William's work. "When Abp. Anselm was at Eome in the early jiart of his episcopate, and attending a coimcil in the Lateran, a question arose as to his proper place, since no Abp. of Canter- bury had as yet been present at a Eoman Council. Pojie Pascal II. decided it by assigning to the " al- terius orlus papa " a seat in the Corona, the most honourable posi- tion. (Eadmer. H. Novor.) It is possible that this fact may have led the architects, on the rebuilding of the choir, to make this addition of an eastern apse or Corona, which did not exist in the earlier ch. In it were the shrines of Abp. Odo and Wilfred of York, and a golden re- liquary in the form of a head, con- taining some relic of Becket, per- haps the severed scalp. On the N. side is the tomb of Cardinal Pole, son of the " Write Rose " who fell at Pavia — Queen IMaiy's archbishop (15.56-1558), and the last archbishop bmied at Canterbury. His royal blood gave him a title to so dis- tinguished a place of sepultm-e. Kent. Route 8 . — Canterhury — Cathedral. Ill Descending the 8. aisle, of Trin. Chapel, the first tomb against the wall is an unknown one, in style rather later than the completion of the chapel itself. ( Willis.) It is attributed to Ahp. Theobald (1138- 1160), but without reason. Still passing W. down the pilgrim-worn steps, we come to St. Anselnts Tower and Chapel. The screen of the chapel is formed by the tomli of Ahp. Simon de Mepham { 1327-1333), " a beautiful and singular work, con- sisting of an altar-tomb placed be- tween a double arcade." Tliis archbishop was worried to death by Granchson, Bp. of Exeter, who re- sisted his visitation as Metropolitan, and who, distrusting admonitory letters or violet wrapped pampldets, eflected a more complete Canterbury settlement by encoimtering the arch- bishop on the borders of Devon with the posse comitatus. " This affront did half break Mepham's heart," says Fuller ; " and the pope, siding with the bishop against him, broke the other half thereof." He re- tm-ned to Kent and died. Anselnts Toiver is part of Prior Ernulfs work, like St. Anch-ew's opposite. The original S. window was replaced by an elaborate Dec. of five lights, by Prior Henry de Estria in 1330. There were pendant bosses in the heads of the lights, like those of his choir screen door ; but these have disappeared. At the E. end was the altar of SS. Peter and Paul, and behind it was buried Anselm (1089-1109); of all the archbishops, with the exception of Becket, the most widely renovmed throughout Europe. Above the chapel is a small room, with a window looking into the chapel, which served as the " watcli- ing chamber," in which a monk was nightly stationed to keep ward over the rich shrine of St. Thomas. " On the occasion of fires the shrine was additionally guarded by a troop of fierce ban-dogs." The watching chamber is said, but without au- thority, to have been used as the prison of King John of France. Be- tween the first 2 piers of the choir, W. of Anselm's Chapel, is the cano- pied tomb of Ahp. Strafford (133.3- 1348)— Edward III.'s Grand Justi- ciary during his absence in Flanders ; and next to it, W., that of Simon de Sudhury {137-l-liiSl), the archbishop who built the W. gate and much ojf the city walls ; who reproved the " superstitious " pilgrimages to St. Thomas, crowned Kichard II., and was himself beheaded by the Kentish rebels under Wat Tyler. " Not many years ago, when tliis tomb was accidentally opened, the body was seen within, wrapi^ed in cerecloth, a leaden ball occupying the vacant space of the head." (Stanley.) In commemoration of the benefits Sud- biuy bestowed on the town, the mayor and aldermen used to pay an annual visit to his tomb, "to pray for his soul." Below is the tomb of AJjp. Kemp (1452-1454), sur- mounted " by a most curious double canopy or tester of woodwork." The S.E. Transept, which we have now reached, has the same archi- tectural character as the N. — Wil- liam of Sens' work on Ernulfs walls, completed by English Wil- liam. In the 2 apses were the altars of St. John and St. Gregory, with the tombs or shrines of 4 Saxon archltishops. Below the easternmost window in the S. wall are some in- dications, in the broken pillars, of the tomb of Ahp. Winchelseij (1292- 1313), whose contest with Edward I. touching clerical subsiches, and whose great almsgiving— 2000 loaves every Sunday and Thiu-sday to the poor when corn was dear, and 3000 when cheap — caused him to be re- garded as a saint. 01)latious were brought to his tomb, but the pope would not consent to canonize him. His tomb is said to have been de- stroyed at the same time as Becket's shrine. Close adjoining is now K 2 170 Route 8. — Canterhimj — Cathedral. Sect. I. placed the Patriaychal Chair of Purbeck marble called " St. Augus- tine's Chair," and traditionally said to be that in which the pagan kings of Kent were euthroued, and which, presented by Ethelbert to Augus- tine, has ever since served as the Metropolitical "Cathedra" of Can- terbm-y. It is certainly of high an- tiquity, but the old throne was of a single stone — this is in 3 pieces — and Purbeck stone was (it is said) un- used until long after Augustine. In this venerable chair the arch- bishops are still enthroned, in per- son or by jjroxy. W. of the transept, against the S. wall of the choir, is the mutilated effigy of Abp. Hubert Walter (1193-1205), who having accompanied Richard Cceur de Lion and Abp. Baldwin to the Holy Land, was, on the latter's death, chosen archbishop in the Crusaders' camp at Acre. The pa- nelling below the tomb is much later; beyond is Walter Eeyuolds (1313-1327), the courtier archbishop of Edward II., whom he deserted in his adversity. The steps leading down into the S. transept, W., indicate the same arrangement as that of the Martyr- dom at the time of Becket's murder. The transept itself is part of Chillen- den's work. The stained glass of the S. window should be noticed. In the pavement, close at the foot of the stairs descending from the tower, is the tombstone of Merie Cusauhon, Abp. Laud's prebendary, d. 1671 ; adjoining is that of Shuckford of the " Connection." Ojiening E. from this transept is 8t. Micluiel's or the Warrior's Chapel. The builder is unknown. It is Pei^i. about 1370, with a " complex lierne vault." In it are " siuidry fair monu- ments." The central one is that erected by Margai'ct Holland (d. 14.37) to the memory of her 2 husbands, John Beaufort Earl of Bomerset, half brother of Henry IV. (d. 1409;, 1., and Thomas of Cla- rence, " qui fnit in bello clarus, nee clarior uUus" — 2nd son of Henry IV., killed by a lance-woimd m the face at the battle of Beaugy, 1421, vt. At the E. end, singularly placed, the head alone appearing through the wall, is the stone coffin of Stephen Luiujton (1207-1228), the great Abp. of John and Magna Charta, " whose work still remains among us in the familiar division of the Bible into chapters.' WilUs suggests that the tomb was outside when the chapel was built, and that it was arched over by the constructors. The altar slab must have covered the coffin, a position most unusual imless for the remains of a distin- guished saint. It was that chosen by Charles V. for himself at Yuste, where the Chm'ch would only allow his wish to be carried out with consider- able modification. But Laugton was a marked man, and his memory was greatly reverenced. The re- maining monuments are of much later date. My Lady Thornhursfs (d. 1G09) mil and farthingale de- servo notice. Her virtues, it would seem, were not less remarkable — " Si laudata Venus, Juno, si sacra Mi- nerva, Quis te coUaudet, fajmina? Talis eris." Passing through the gallery under the tower stairs, we return to the Martyrdom Transept, and from it enter the Crypt or Undercroft, the same that existed under the choir of Conrad. The walls near the transept are ornamented by a curious diaper, also found on a fragment of the Ro- chester Chapterhouse, of which place Ernulf, who constructed this crypt, afterwards became bishop. Canterbury is one of 5 English east- ern crypts founded before 1085 ; the others are Winchester, Gloucester, Rochester, and Worcester. From this time they ceased to be con- structed excei^t as a continuation of former ones. ( Willis.) The enrich- ments on the capitals of the colmuns are occasionally luifiuished, proving Kext. Route 8. — Canterhury — - Cathedral. ] i I that they were worked after being set in i3hice. On one, at the S.W. side, 2 sides of the block are phiin ; the tliird lias the ornament ronghed out, and the fom-tli is completely finished. Some of the shafts also are rudely fluted, whilst others are untouched. In the roof are rings, each surrounded by a crowir of thorns, from which lamps were suspended. The whole crj-jit was dedicated to the Virgin, and toward the E. end is the Chapel of Our Lady Undercroft, enclosed by late Perp. open stone- work. It was, says Erasmus, siu-- rounded by a double rail of iron — "Quid metuit Virgo? nihil opinor nisi fures." In beauty the shrine exceeded that of Walsingham ; its wealth was indescribable. Only a very few " magnates" were per- mitted to see it. The niche over the altar for the figure still remains ; the bracket has a carving of the Annim- ciation. In the centre of the pave- ment is the gravestone of the Car- dinal Abp. Morto7i (1486-1500). Faithful throughout to Henry VI. he effected the union of the two Roses by the marriage of Hemy of Richmond to Elizabeth of York. His monument is at the S.W. corner, much defaced by Blue Dick. The Mart or hawk on a tun is the arch- bishop's rebus. In the S. screen of the Lady Chapel is the monument of Lady Mohun of Dunster (about 1895) ; a perpetual chantry was founded by her. The whole of the crypt was given up by Elizabeth in 1561 to the French and Flemish refugees — " they whom the rod of Alva bruised" — who fled to England, then as now the asylum of Europe, in great numbers. (See Sandwich, Rte. 10.) A company of clothiers and silk- weavers (" gentle and profitable strangers " as Alip. Parker called them) estal)lislied themselves at Canterbury, where their numbers rapidly increased : they were about 500 in 1676. They had their own pastors and services, with which Abp. Laud attempted to interfere ; but his attention was directed elsewhere by the breaking out of the Scottish war. The main body of the crypt was occupied by their silk-looms, and the numerous French inscriptions on the roof are due to tliis congre- gation, which still continues to exist, although their silk trade has long since disappeared. The S. side aisle was separated for their place of worship, where they still regularly assemble. The long table is that at which they sit to receive the sacra- ment. Forming the entrance to the French Church, E. is the chantry founded by the Black Prince on his marriage in 1363. On the vaulting are his arms, those of Edward III. and what seems to be the face of his wife, the " Fair Maid." For per- mission to foimd this chantry he left to the cathedral the manor of " Fauke's hall " (Vanxhall), still the property of the Chapter. Still further E. is St. John's Chapel, di- vided into two by a stone wall, the imier part being quite dark. On the roof are some interesting tempera paintings, figured in Dart. Pugin conjectured with great probability that this dark chapel was a contri- vance for hiding the principal trea- sures of the ch. in case of need. Beyond it is the tomb of Isabel Countess of Athol (1292), heiress of Chilham. The eastern part of the cryjit, under Trinity Chapel and Bccket's crown, is the workof English William, and difiers greatly from the somljre gloom of Ernulf's btulding. "The work from its position and ofHce is of a massive and bold character, but its unusual loftiness prevents it from assuming the character of a crypt.' ( Willis.) The windows have been re- cently opened and its beauties made more apparent. The abacuses of the piers are round, a peculiarity which distinguishes English Wil- 178 Eoute 8 . — Conterh ury — Cathedral. Sect. T. liam's -worlv from that of William of Sens. This part of the erji^t was long assigned to the first canon for a wine and wood cellar. In the earlier cr\i:)t, which existed here hefore the rebuilding, and which, althongh not so lofty, must have resembled this in arrangement, Becket was laid in a marble sarco- phagus the <lay after the murder. A wall was built about it, in each end of which were 2 windows, so that pilgrims might look in, and kiss the tomb itself. The tomb was covered with tapers, the offerings of pilgrims, and hung round with waxen legs, arms, &c.- — such votive memorials as may still be seen about great con- tinental shrines {Benedict). Here Becket remained until removed to the upper church in 1220. In this earlier vault took place one of the most remarkable scenes of the middle ages, — the penance of Hemy II.,^who 2 years after the miuder, when all seemed darkening romid him, determined to make a fm-ther attempt at propitiating the saint. Living on bread and water from the time of his arrival at Southampton, he walked barefoot through Can- terlniry from St. Dmistan's Chm-eli to the cathedral, where, after kneeling in the Martyrdom transept, he was led into the cryj^t. There, removing his cloak and having placed his head within one of the openings of the tomb, he received 5 sti'okes from the "balai," or monastic rod of each bishoii and abbot who was present, and 3 from each of the 80 monks. He passed the whole night in the cryjit, fasting, and resting against one of the pillars, and finally dejiarted, fully absolved. That very day the Scottish king, William the Lion, was taken prisoner at Rich- mond, and comiecting his capture with the power of the martyr, he founded, on his retmii to Scotland, the Abliey of Aberbrothiek, to the memory of St. Thomas of Canter- bury. We may now retiu-n to the ex- terior of the cathedral. Of the 2 W. towers, that N. is modern, and was finished in 1840, under the su- perintendence of the late G. Austin, Esq. In digging the foundations, skeletons of oxen are said to have been found at a very great depth. The soil is a deep gravel. The tower tlien taken down was Norm, and called the " Arundel Steeple," from a ring of 5 bells placed in it by that archbishop. The S., or " Dunstan Steeple," is the work of Abp. Chicheley and Prior Goldstone. The great central tower, called "Bell Harry," from a small bell hmig at the top of it, is entirely due to Prior Goldstone 11. (1495-1517.) It replaced that called the " Angel Steeple," from the figiu-e of a gilt angel crowning it ; tlie first object that caught the eye of pilgrims ad- vancing to Canterbm-j^ The height of the present tower, one of the most beautiful examples of Perp. work existing, is 235 ft. The ex- terior arcades of the chapels east- ward, indicate the works of Ernulf and Anselm, all of which has al- ready been pointed out from within. Throughout, it must be remem- bered, all the iwecincts exhibit traces or remains of the great Benedictine monasteiy founded by Augustine and confirmed by Lanfranc. The early abps. lived in common with the monks. Lanfranc's rule first gave them a irrior, and the abps. from this time were more separated, although they still con- tinued the nominal heads of the convent, and the monks long insisted that the abp. should always be a Benedictine. The priors had the right of wearing the mitre, and of car- rying the episcopal staff ; they were personages of great importance, and for the most part discharged their duties well. The monastery, at the dissolution, does not seem to have been in a very debased condition. The Norm, doorway, now built into Kent. Route 8. — Canterbury — Cathedral. 179 the in'ecinct wall E. of the choir, formerly admitted from the exterior to the interior or convent cemetery, into which two portions the S. pre- cincts, now occupied by canons' houses, was mainly divided. The part now called " The Oaks, " rumiing S. beyond the choir, was the mo- nastery garden. Somewhere here too was the ancient school on the site of that founded by Abp. Theodore for the study of Greek, and on which he bestowed many Greek books, in- cluding a copy of Homer, — thus marking Canterbury as the earliest place of Greek study in England. A narrow flagged passage leading round the catheth-al, opens to the Prior s or Green Court. In this passage, the first house 1., adjoining the archway, formed part of the "Honours" or "Maister Honom-s," a set of state chambers belonging to the prior, and used on occasions of special dignity ; pilgrims of high rank were lodged here. Beyond these nmning W. was the Infiruuiry with its Cliurrh, the arches of which may be traced in the walls of the houses 1. A door from the infirmary opened into the convent garden conveniently for the sick monks. Somewhere on the N. side of the choir was the famous ivell of St. Tliomas, of which no trace is now visible. The dust and blood from the pavement after the murder is said to have been thrown into it. The spring changed four times into blood, and once into milk ; and con- stant miracles were wrought by the water. This mai-vel did not appear, however, until the beginning of the 14th cent., and is vmknowu by the earlier chroniclers. {Stanley, H. 31., 185.) From its I'ecorded effects it seems to have been slightly chaly- beate, like the well of Zem-Zem at Mecca. Beyond the infirmary is the " Dark Entrj'," leading on one side into the cloisters, on the other into the Green Court. The passage has of late years been uncovered, and the arches oi^cned, thereby exorcising the ghost of " Nell Cook,'' touching whom the cmious may refer to the ' Ingoldsby Legends.' The Norm. I^ortions of this entry seem to have been the work of Prior Wibert (d. 11G7), who certainly built the curious bell-shaped tower in the garden without, adjoining the cloisters. This building (the " Castellum Aquas") formed a part of the com- plicated system for supplying the monks with water, which was brought into it from the fields with- out at some distance, and distributed in pipes all over the monastery. It is now called " The Baptistery, ' and the upper part contains the marble font, given by Bp. Warner, removed here from the cathecbal nave. A staircase (rt., going towards the Green Court) leads to the CJiapter Library. This was at first the Prior's Chapel, then the Dean's, until it was applied to its present purpose. It contains a good collection of books, made accessible with great liberality. There is a case of Bibles and Prayer- books of veiy high interest. The most remarkable MS. is the Charter of Edward granting Reculver to the Monastery : (see Kte. 9). This is in all probability an autograph of Dunstan. At the end of the room hangs an ancient painting on wood (perhaps temp. Kich. II.), represent- ing Queen Edgiva. The lines be- neath commemorate her virtues, and her gift, to the convent, of " Monkton and Minster, monkes to feede." Again descending, a gate, 1., leads into the Cloisters, generally visited from the IVIiirtyrdom Transept, but better described in this place. They are late Perij., but here and there show Norm, and other portions, indicating that the ancient site is preserved. A door still existing on the "W. side, opened to the arch- bishop's palace, and marks the posi- tion of that through which Becket passed on his way to the cathedral. 180 Route 8. — Canterlwy — Deanery. Sect. I. Tlie-use of the circular opening at 1 the side is uncertain. The arched door on the N. side of the cloister — where are still traces of a laver vrith a double cistern, for the ablu- tions of the monks — led into the refectory. The cloister windows were glazed and the walls painted with " Carols " and texts by Prior Selling, d. 1494. The shields on the roof are those of benefactors. The central space is said to have served for the herb-garden of the convent. On the E. side is the Clmpterlumse, the work of Abp. Arundel (1472- 1492 ). Its roof, of Irish oak, is very rich and curious. At the upper end are seats for the prior and great officers. The stone bench round the walls was for the monks. The scom-ging of Henry II., which is said to have taken place here, was really inflicted in the crypt. After the reformation it was used for preaching, and thence acquired the name of "The Sermon House." Traces may still be seen of the arr.mgements for galleries. Keturningthroughthe Dark Entry, we may enter the Grep,n Court, for- merly surrounded by the principal domestic buildings of the monastei7. The arch and mins adjoining the entry were portions of " I^a Glo- riette," the prior's ordinary apart- ments, built by Prior Hathbrande, about 1.370. The present Deanery (E. side of court) was also comprised in the prior's lodgings, and contained the great stone hall, called " Mensa Ma- gir^tri." In the deanery are por- traits of the deans of Canterbiuy, from Dr. Wotton, the first after the dissolution. The ruins now remain- ing on the S. side, are mainly those of" the dormitory and connected buildings. The refectoiy or "Fra- tery " was here, with kitchens and cellarer's lodgings attached. On the W. side is the Porters Gate, the most ancient now remaining, tiiiough which provisions and ne- cessaries of all kinds were brought into the convent. Its late Norm, ornamentation is curious. Beyond the gate is the present Grammar School. The Norm, staircase leading up to the hall, is the only construction of the sort known to be in existence. The work is late Norm., although the pillars resemble those with plain capitals in the ciypt. The hall above was rebuilt in 1855. It takes the place of that called the north or "Hog-hall," not "as some say, from the dressing of hogs in the under- croft of it," but from its size and height Qiorp, hoch). It seems to have anciently served for the stewards of the monasteiy courts. In the com-t which is entered through the arches under the hall was the Almonrn of the priory. At the dissolution Heniy VIII. retained these buildings in his own hands, and converted some portions of them into a mint. In the remainder he established the King's or grammar school, for 50 scholars. It maintains a very high reputation. Among its distinguished scholars were Marlowe the dramatist — a native of Caiiter- bm-y (see Dyce's Marlowe, vol. i.) — and Lord Chief Justice Tenterden, who declared " that to the free school of Canterbury he owed, under the Divine blessing, the first and best means of his elevation in life." An interesting anecdote of Lord Tenter- den has been recorded by Mr. Mac- ready, to whom a verger pointed out where a little barber s shop used to stand, opposite tiie W. front of the cathedral, and said, " The last time Lord Tenterden came down here he brought his son Charles with him, and it was my duty, of course, to attend tliem over the cathedral. When we came to this side of it, he hnl his son up to tliis very spot and said to him, 'Charles, you see this little shop ; I have brought you here on purpose to show it to you. In that shop your grandfather used to shave Kent. Ihate 8. — Canterlnnj — ArchlisJwp's Palace. 181 for a penny ! That is tlie proudest reflection of my life ! WJiile j'ou live never forget that, my dear Charles.' " {Ld. Campbell.) We jDass out of the precincts by the porter's gate into Palace Street, where an arched doorway is nearly all that now remains of the ArrJihisliop's Palace. The ruined Saxon palace here was rebuilt by Lanfranc. In this Norm, building the scenes took place between Becket and the knights before he entered the cathedral. The great hall, famous for its entertainments, was begun by Abp. Hubert Walter, and finished by Stephen Langton. On the marriage of Edward I. with Margaret of France there were 4 days of feasting here. In 1514 Warham entertained CharlesV., Queen Joanna of Arragon, Heniy VIII., and Queen Catherine ; on which occasion there was a "solenine damicing" in the great hall. In 1573 Parker feasted Queen Elizabeth here ; but the greatest festivities recorded took place at the entlu-onization of War- ham in 1504. On this occasion, the " subtylties " wliich appeared be- tween each course must have tried monastic invention to the utmost. The archbishop's table was graced with " Our Lady and the King pre- senting Warham, in his habit as Master of the Rolls, unto St. Paid, sitting in a tower between St. Peter and St. Thomas k Becket, ' who re- ceive him with "benigne counte- nances.' There were otlier devices exhibiting doctors in grey amices at their desks, " well garnished with angels." All were sujjplied with such mottoes as induce us to hope tliat the cooks were more skilful than the poets. The archbishop was served by his high steward, the Didce of Buck- ingham, who entered the hall on horseback. He had his own table, decorated with " subtylties "' of a more worldly cast ; whilst tlie breth- reti feasted on salmon and lampreys. The high steward had the right, after tlie cnihronization, of stoijping with liis train for 3 days at one of the archbishoij's nearest manors, to be bled — " ad minuendam sangui- neni " — a proof of IJie consequences expected to result from the outpour- ing of yppocrasse and clarye. The palace was pillaged, and fell into a rained state imder the Puritan nde, and on the Restoration an act was passed, dispensing the arch- bishops from restoring it. From this time they have had no ofEcial residence in Canterliury. , After the cathedral, the great ob- ject of interest is St. Amjnst/ne's College. Its ancient history must be told before coming to the present foundation. Outside the Roman city, and ad- joining the road to Rutupia?, was a building in which Etlielbert had been accustomed to worship the Saxon deities. This, after his conversion, he made over to Augustine, who conse- crated it as the church oi' St. Pancras, the patron saint of chikh-en, and now probably chosen with a reference to the 3 English children whose pre- sence in the Roman forum had led to the conversion of their country. Close adjoining this ch., on ground also granted by Ethell^ert, Augus- tine built the Benedictine monastery of Ss. Peter and Paul, called after the two apostles of the city of Rome, from which Augustine and his com- panions had come. It was after- wards dedicated by Dunstan, in 978, to these 2 saints and to Augustine, by whose name it was henceforth chiefly known. Its original fomida- tion without the walls was owing to the wish of Augustine to provide a spot of consecrated ground for the interment of himself and successors ; " Ne intra muros sepelito "' being the rule of Roman and of Saxon Britain as well as of Rome itself. Augus- tine and Ethelbert, with many of their successors, were Inu'ied here, and the Roman road to Rutupiaj thus became the English Appiau K. 3 182 Route 8. — Canterhuri/ — St. Augustine's College. Sect. I. way. The A. S. kings vied with each other in bestowing lands and gifts upon this great monastery. The abbot's place in the general Benedictine Conncil was next to that of the abbot of Monte Casino, the head of the order. When he was to be consecrated, the abp. himself came to the abbey ch. for the pm-pose. The abbot had, before the Conquest, the right of minting and coinage, and, at the dissolution, jiirisdiction over a whole lathe of 13 hundreds. In the matter of feasting, the ab- bots of St. Augustine vied with the neighbouring priors of Ch. Ch., and great is the recorded consumption of " swannys " and " suckmg piggis " which took place in the great hall on " superior occasions." The city occasionally contributed its share, and in 1520 paid 2s. for " ij turbottes given to my L. abbot of S. Austieyns at his coming home from Eome." The abbey was stripped of its lead, and became greatly ruined immedi- ately after the dissolution. Of the Church, which had been several times injured l)y tire and by flood, there now only remain some wall fragments of late Norm, cha- racter. "At the "W. end stood Ethel- bert's Toiver, erected about 1047, and taken down at the beginning of the present cent. (See GostUurfs Walk for views of it.) Somner suggests that it was a campanile, and called from a bell named Ethelbert. The arrangements of the high altar, with the shrines of the first archbishops surrounding it, are figiu-ed by Som- ner from a MS. in Trin. Col. Cam- bridge. The shrine of King Ethel- bert was above the altar, and on each side "books sent by Gregory to Augustine," probably the 2 MS. Gospels still preserved in the Bod- leian and in Corpus Christi Col. Cam- bridge, " the most ancient books that ever were read in England." {Stan- ley, H. M. 23.) Before the Beckct murder this ch., as that of the patron saint, was regarded as a more sacred and important edifice than the cathedral, and was, more- over, venerated .as the burial-place of the earlier archbishops and kings of Kent ; but the glory of Becket s shrine speedily eclipsed it. S. of the ch. adjoining its ancient cemetery, are the remains of St. Pun- eras chapel. The arch of Roman brick may perhaps have formed a portion of the primitive building. In the wall are shown the marks of the "demon's claws," who, having rilled supreme in the building before Augustine's coming, attempted to shake it down when he heard the first mass in it. They are " ivy marks," says Somner. Besides these ruins, the entrance-gate, the ceme- tery-gate, and the present refectoiy, are the only remains of the original monaster}'. The refectory was per- haps the ancient Guests' Hall ; its open roof is unchanged. Tlie En- trance Gate was built by Abbot Fyn- don in 1300 ; the massive oaken doors are perhaps (?) of the same date. It was eml)attled by royal licence soon after. The roof connnands a view over the city, embracing every point of interest. Eemark the curious framing of St. Martin's Clim-ch be- tween 2 of the embrasures. This gate has been frequently copied with and without propriety. The IMar- quis of Hastings introduced it in the centre of the fa§ade of Donning- ton castle, and the Marquis of West- minster as a lodge at Eaton. Tlie Cemetery Gate, which is be- yond the present college, toward Burgate, was built b}^ Ickman,the sa- crist, in 1309, at a cost of 4(36Z. 13s. id. After the dissolution, the habit- able buildings were converted into a royal palace, though the ground still remained covered with ruins. Mary granted this palace to Cardi- nal Pole for his life. Elizabeth held her court in it for some days ; Charles I. returned here with Hen- rietta Maria, after their first meeting IvEXT. Route 8. — Caiiterluri/ — St. Aiigustines College. isr tit Dover. At supper he carved for her with his own royal hand " a pheasant and some venison ;"' and the great room over the gateway is traditionally pointed out as that in which the ominous marriage was consuimnated. It was then granted to Thomas Lord Wotton, of Marley, whose family long continued to reside here, and entertained Charles II. when he passed through Canterbury after the Restoration. The buildings were subsequently known as Lady Wotton's palace, and the open space before the gateway is still called " Lady Wotton's Green." They at last sank into complete ruin. Over the gate was a cockpit. There was a tives-com-t in the cha- pel, and the great court became a bowling-green. Tlie abbey had been converted into a brewery, when it was pur- chased in 1844 by A. J. Beresford Hope, Esq., and devoted Ijy him to its present puqiose, that of a Mission- ary College, " intended to carry far and wide, to countries of which Gre- gory and Augustine never heard, the blessings whicli they gave to us." (Stanley.) It " provides an education to qualify young men for the service of the ch. in the dis- tant dependencies of the British empire, with such strict regard to economy and frugality of hal)it, as maj- fit them for the special duties to be discharged, the difficulties to be encountered, and the hardships to be endm-ed." (Charter of Incor- poration.') A full account of its ob- jects, arrangements, and studies, will be found in the ' Calendar of 8t. Augustine's College,' published an- nually. The college consists of warden, subwarden, and six fellows. The endowment, only partially provided as yet, has been raised from free contributions. Exhibitions have been founded in the college by ditferent benefactors. (Donations are received by Messrs. Child, Temple Bar, Lou- don, and Messrs. Hammond, Can- terbury.) There is at present accommoda- tion for 45 students, who may lie of any nation and rank in life. 1'lie annual collegiate charge for educa- tion and maiuteuance of each is oHL The studies are to some extent varied according to the pupil's desti- nation, and there are classes of printers, carpenters, and gardeners. The building was erected from de- signs bv Mr. Butterfield, and com- pleted in 1S4S, 810 years after the dissolution of the earlier foundation. It is full of beauty ; " No motley col- lection of ill-assorted plagiarisms, but a positive creation, a real thing, which may be said to be like no- thing else, and yet like evei-ytbing else, in Christian art." (Bj). of Fre- derieton.) Fronting the main entrance is the Library, containing a valuable col- lection of missionaiy books, the Oriental collection of Dr. Mill, pre- sented l\v Mr. Hope, and perhaps the very finest set of the Fathers ex- isting. The portrait of Bp. Heber here was painted for the King of Oudc, but passed into the hands of Dr. Mill. The picturesque cij\}i beneath the library is used by the carijenters ; opposite are the refectory (with its ancient roof) and the chapel, on the site of the ancient guests' chapel, con- taining some of Willement's stained glass. On the N. side of the quad- rangle are the cloisters, with students' rooms above them. The S. side is still open, and shows the ruins of the abbey ch. The oak fittings of the library and students' gallery are specially worth notice. Each student has his sitting-room and bed-room. From St. Augustine's, with his mind filled with its impressions and associations, the visitor may fitly proceed by the Longport Boad, the first manor granted to St. Augustine's by Ethelbert, to St. Martin's Church on the hill above, the " Motlier 1-84 Route S.—Canterhurij—Sf. Martin's Church. Sect. I. Church of England, as Canterbury is the Mother Cathedral." It had been a British Christian chapel before the arrival of the Saxons, and had been given up for the use of Bertha, the Christian -wife of Ethelbert, and of lier French bishop, Liudluird. St. Martin of Tours was then the most famous saint of France, and the name was probably given by Bertha. This chapel of St.Martin must have been the iirst object that caught the view of Augustine and the mission- aries as they advanced from Rich- boroTigh to Canterbury, along the Roman road that crossed St. Mar- tin's Hill. " And then, in the valley below, on the banks of the river, appeared the city — the rude wooden city as it then was — emVjosomed in tiiickets. As- soon as they saw it they formed themselves into a long procession ; they lifted up again tlie tall silver cross, and tlie rude painted board" (see Thcmet,Jite. 9) ; " there were with them the choris- ters whom Augustine had brought from Gregory's school on the Ca3lian hill, trained in the chants which were called after his name, and tliey sang one of those litanies which Gregory had Introduced for the plague at Rome. . ' "We beseech tliee, O Lord, in all thy mercy, that thy wrath and thine anger may be removed from this city, and from tliy lioly house. Alleluia.' Doubt- less, as they uttered tliat last word, tiiey must have remembered that they were thus fulfilling to the letter the very wish that Gregory had ex- pressed when he fir.st saw the Saxon children in the market-place at Rome. And thus they came down St. Martins Hill, and entered Can- terbury." (StanUy.) Tlie Chapel of St. Martin was now made over to Augustine ; and in it Ethelbert is said to have been baptized — " except the conversion of Clovis, the most important baptism that tlie world had seen since that of Constantine." Suflfi-agan bishops of St. Martin's were occasionally appointed during the Saxon period. The present ch. no doubt occupies the site of Augustine's, and por- tions of the walls may be identical. Throughout them, Roman bricks are introduced, on some of which frag- ments of the original Roman mortar, partly composed of pounded brick, are foimd adhering. The chancel windows are E. E. : on the N. side, on a brass within the arch of an Easter Sep. (?) is this inscription : " Si qua ppe hie alieubi positte jacent reliquiiB Berthfe, regis Ethelberti conjugis, in posti-emum Domini Jesu adventmnpace requiescant." Bertha was really buried in St. Martin's ChrqKl, within St. Augustine's Ab- bey. In the modern stained glass win- dows are memorials of the church's early liistory. St. Rlartin dividing his cloak, Bp. Liudhard, Gregory the Great, and the children in the mar- ket-place, "Non Angli, sedAngeli." The font large, and certainly Norm., is traditionally said to be that in which Ethelbert was baptized. Although of a later date "it is so like that which appears in the re- presentation of the event in the seal of St. Augustine's Abbey, and is in itself so remarkable that we may perhaps fairly regard it as a monu- ment of the eveiit ; and in the same manner as the large porphyry basin of the Latcran commemorates the baptism of Constantine." {Stanley.) The ch., wliich had fallen into a sad condition, is almost entirely indebted for its present order and beauty to the Hon. Daniel Finch, auditor of the cathecb-al, one of whose ances- tors (temp. Chas. I.) is inten-ed in it. In the chra-chyard Byzantine and Merovingian looped coins, regarded by the antiquary as amulets, have been found. The visitor should make a point of attending the service here. In no ch. throughout England has the Creed a more solemn sound or sig- Kent. Route 8. — Canterhuri/ — Dane John — Castle. 18i nificance. And passing beyond the cliurcliyard gate, be sbonld dimb the bill behind it, commanding one of the best views of Canterljury, " the first English Christian city," with the great cathedi-al towering in the centre, and St. Angustine's close below. " From the Christianity here established, has flowed by direct consequence, first, the Christianity of Germany, then, after a long in- terval, of Nortli America, and lastly, we may trust in time, of all India and all Australasia. The view from St. Mai-tin's Hill is indeed one of the most inspiriting that can be found in the world ; there is none to which I would more willingly take any one, who doubted whether a small lieginning could lead to a great and lasting good, none which carries us more vividly back into the past, or more hopefully forward to the future." (Stanley.) Turning off opposite the County Hospital, we maj' pass through Chantry Lane to the Dane John, with a glance at the site of St. Sepulchres, a Benedictine nunnery, founded by Anselm, adjoining a ch. of the Holy Sepulchre. It was here that Elizabeth Barton, "the mm of Kent," was removed from Al- dington, whore her cell "for some 3 years was the Delphic shrine of the Catholic oracle, from which the orders of Heaven were commu- nicated even to the pope himself." (Froude, H. E., i. 295, where wiU be found the best and fullest account of her.) There are but scanty re- mains of the nunnery, and it will be hopeless to attempt to trace the chamber from which she "went to heaven once a fortnight," and where the devil at other times "made great stinking smokes." (See more, Aldington, Etc. 7.) The public walks of the Dane Jofin are beautiful and wlII worth a visit. The name is no doubt a cor- ruption of Donjon, with a probable reference to the lofty mound close within the city walls. This may have had some connexion with the castle beyond ; or may mark the site of some earlier British stronghold. The view of the cathedral from it, seen over the fresh green of the trees, is very striking. The field opposite, outside the walls, is called "the Martj'rs' Field," and in a hollow still visible at the end the Blarian auto-da-fe's are said to have tiiken place. Beyond the Dane John, but still close to the city wall, is the Castle, the venerable Norm, keep of which is now converted into a gas factory. It measures 88 ft. by 80, and is the third largest Norm, keep in England, the two exceeding it being Colches- ter 1 08 X 1 26 - and Norwich - 98 x 93. According to Domesday the Con- queror received the castle in ex- change from the Archbishop and Abbot of St. Augustine's. It was reduced without resistance by Louis of France (temp. John.) It became afterwards a prison ; and in the bar- bacan certain of the prisoners used to sit " bound in chains, to beg their daily bread." Jews were frequently confined here, and many versicles of tlie Psalms in Hebrew remained on the walls of the N.E. stair- case in Plot's time (1672). The state apartments were on the third story, with larger arched windows. At the N. end is an arch, high in the wall, now bricked up, which King (Alun. Ant.) supposed to be the original entrance, as at Rochester. Adjoining it was the ancient WortJi Gate, now removed, — an arch of Eoman brick, opening to the Stone Street, by which Lymne (Portus Lemanis) was approached. The smaller parish churches, of which Canterbury contains no less than 12, are perhaps of no very high interest. St. Gregory's without the walls, beyond Broad Street, an excel- lent modern E. E. ch. (Scott. Arch.), again recalls the Great Pope whose name "stands at the opening of 18G Route 8. — Canterhury — Churches — Muse urn. Sect. I. Christian Europe," and a little further on, in Northgate Street, was the ancient Priory of St. Gregory, founded by Lanfranc for Augusti- nian Black Canons, the first house of the Order in England. There are now no remains. Tlie canons had the dutj' of ministering to the infirm in the Hospital of St. John, opposite, also founded by Lanfranc, and the twin hospital of Harbledown. More than 100 poor were sustained in this hospital and adjoining edifices, temp. Edw. III. (Somner.) In the chapel was a "very brave qiiire window, with the 12 Apostles," given by one of the Eopcr family, of which only fragments remain. The hospital has been recently restored. The most interestmg part remaining is the Gateway, a wooden structure, arched. The Church of Holy Cross was removed by Abp. Sudbuiy (1874-81), from its old position above Westgate when that was rebuilt, and placed beside it. The talbot seiant, Sudbury's coat, appears within the porch. In St. Dnnstan's Clriirrh, he- yond, the head of Sir Thomas More was deposited in the vault of the Kopers. When examined some time since, the hair was found to be quite perfect. The brick gateway nearly opposite the ch., now part of a brewery, is all that remains of the Eopers' manor-house, in which IVIar- garet, the most learned of the "Moricse," as Erasmus called Sir Thomas's daughters, spent her married life. Of the smaller religious houses, the most important remains are those of the Dominicans, or Black Friars, on the banks of the Stoiir, below St. Peter's Church. This liouse is said to have been the first they jjos- sessed in England.- They were es- tablished here by Henry III., and the remains are of this date. The refectory, with windows high in the wall, is perfect, and is now used as a Unitarian Chapel. In it De Foe is said to have frequently preached. The E. window of the ancient ch. appears on the opposite bank of the Stour. A pictiu-esque view of the ruins may be had from Masters' Nursery, worth a visit for its own sake. The walks are well laid out, and between the trees are pkasaut glimpses of the cathedral and the city wall with its watch turrets. Eemark especially an enormous Lombardy poplar planted 1758. Without the garden in a meadow adjoining the " Abbot's Mill," which belonged to St. Augustine's Monas- tery, are 5 large poplars ( 1 Canescens, British, and 4 Monilifera, Canadian). They are about 100 years old, and so picturesque with their ribbed truniis, and great masses of pointed leafage, as to be well worth tlie artist's attention. On tlie other side of the street, and in somewhat dangerous jirox- imity to the Dominican brethren, considering the " tantje animis cceles- tibus iraj," were the Franciscctns, es- tablished in Canterbury in 1270. Of their house are no remains. FmsI Bridge Hospitcd, close ad- joining, and bound originally to re- ceive " wayfaring and hurt men," is said to have been foiuided by Abp. Becket. Its true histoiy seems un- certain. In Guildhall Street, which opens from the High Street, is the Museum, built by siibscription, and containing some collections well worth a visit. Among the local antiquities is an A. S. drinking cup of " twisted " or " pillared " glass— the " twisted ale cup" of Beowulf — such as Ethelbert may have drained in his hall, or pledged Augustine in. It was found near Reculver, and is probably unique. Eemark also the remains of a sacrificial vat or bronze bucket, for mead or beer ; some of the circu- lar A. S. (or Jutisli) brooches pecu- liar to Kent and the Isle of Wight, and other relics from Gilton and Breach Downs. In other cases are Kent. Route 8. — WhitstaUe — Oi/ster-heds. 187 urns from Hartlip and Cliartlmm, and a curious statuette of Latona(?) foimd in a Roman urn at St. Dun- stan's; besides a fragment of Becket's slirine (?) There is also a remarkable collection of Greek and Etruscan vases presented by Lord Strangford. The Nat. Hist, collections are large. Eemark a large British pearl found in a WTiitstable oj'ster ; fossils from Sheppey, — echini, crabs, lobsters, and turtles ; horns of different species of ox, from Sea Salter and Heme ; mammoth bones and tusks from Heme Bay, and in the hall, some very large ammonites ti'om Dover. An early picture of Cooper's, " Meadows on the Stour, looking towards Canterbury from Tuniford,' hangs in the upper room. The windows of Flemish glass contain some interesting fi-agments. There is a small library below, liberally conducted. Over the fireplace is the portrait of Gostling, author of the ' Walk round Canterbury' (1777). His walking-stick hangs below. The Guildhall at the corner of this street, modernized without, con- tains some relics of armour, and some cm-ious portraits. That of Cogan, who gave lauds in 1G57 for the support of 6 clergymen's widows, to the hospital called after liim in High Street, is by Jansen, who was long resident at Bridge, about 3 m. from Canterbury. At the N. end of this street is the small district called " Stalde gate," wliich Ethelbert, it is said, assigned to Augustine and his companions before his own conver- sion. Numerous interesting excursions may be made from Canterbury. For Harbledoum and its neighbourhood (within a walk), see Ete. 4 ; for St. Stephen's, where is an interesting ch. (also within a walk), see Ete. 9 ; for Barfreston, with its well-known Nor- man ch., 7 m. from Canterbury, see Ete. 11. The short railway from Canter- hury to Whitstahle is chiefly used for the conveyance of coals, which are landed at the latter place. The modern castellated house seen on the hill rt. in ai)proaching Whitstable is Tanlierton Toiver (Wynn Ellis, Esq.), '\MiitstabIe itself, a long straggling village, has few claims to admira- tion ; but some of the largest oyster- beds lie off the coast ; and the scene, when the white-sailed fleet of dredg- ing boats is fluttering and tacking across them, is full of animation. The " Mid-Channel " oysters, from a great natiiral bed which stretches for 40 m. between the ports of Shore- ham and Havre — discovered only a few years since — liavc somewhat disturljed the old trade ; Init the " real natives are gi-eater aristocrats among their fellows than ever," so much higher is their gout and deli- cacy. These are re.gularly culti- vated by different companies. At Wiitstable, Sheerness, and other points along the mouth of the Thames, the flow of fresh water from the Thames and IMedway is said to lieucfit the young beds greatly. The " spat" or yoimg brood is frequently brought from a great distance, and " laid" in the lied, where they remain for 8 years before they are brought to market. There are at least 9 oyster companies, besides many individuals who possess and work their own " sea farms," some- times miles in extent. Of these is Mr. Alston, " without doubt the largest oyster fisher in the world, who in a single year has sent to London more than 50,000 bushels from his fisliery at Cheyney Eock, near Sheerness. (Q. Rev. vol. 95.)" The Dutch were formerly among the largest purchasers from these fisheries, so that the admirer of the oysters and cut lemons in some frerard Dow or Ostade may please himself with the notion that he has before him the portraits of ancient Thames natives, themselves the de- 188 Route 9. — Canterbury to Margate. Soct. I. scendants of those venerable Britisli oysters which in tlie days of Juvenal found their way to Nero's Golden House and Domitian's Alban Villa. The fragments of red Samian pottery, constantly dredged up from the fisheries near the " Pudding Pan Eock" off Eeculver, still re- mind us of the ancient presence of the Romans here. (See the follow- ing Eotite.) ROUTE 9. CANTERBURY TO MARGATE. Proceeding toward Margate, close beyond the Canterbm-y station, 1., half hidden in trees, is the old Church of St. Stephens. On this site Abp. Baldwin (temp. Hen. II.) attempted to establish a college for secular canons. The building was com- menced, but the monks of St. Augus- tine's were violently hostile, and at length obtained a bull prohibiting the college altogether. In it the site is called " maledictum et profaniun.' The earliest portions of the existing ch. are thought to have formed part of Baldwin's foundation. The W. tower has massive E. E. buttresses, and the W. door is E. E. with very rich dog- tooth mouldings. The nave is also E. E. The wide circular transept arches, and tlie S. door icitlun the j)orch, with a diapered tympanum, are earlier. Some of the windows ex- hibit unusual forms of Dec. tracery, and the E. window of the chancel, wliich is Perp., has a smaller light on eitluT side. The whole ch. has lately been well and carefully restored, and contains some good stained glass bv Willement. The font, 1591, for tha't time of unusually good Perp. form, was given by Sir Roger Man wood, Chief Baron of the Exchequer temp. Eliz., whose monument is in the S. transept. This was completed in 1592, before the death of Sir Roger, and is an excellent specimen of the Elizabethan monument. It is of ala- baster and painted. The bust exhi- bits the bearded chief baron in his red robe, collar of SS., coif, and black cap. Above is an achievement ; and midernoath a skeleton reposes on a mattress. There is a long in- scription. The manor fell into the hands of the Manwoods after the dissolution, and Sir Roger built a large " Place House " in the field S. of the ch., of which the foundations still exist. The almshouses beyond were founded by him, as was also the grammar- school at Sandwich (sec Rte. 10). His will and letters (see Boys' Sanrlwir.h) give a fine picture of his life at St. Stephen's, at a time when the duties of property were insisted dn as strongly as its rights. The manor subsequently became the property of the Hales family, one of whom. Sir Edward Hales,had figmxd in the ti-ials relating to the king's dispensing power {Macaulay, i. 84), and was after- wards the companion of James II. in his attempted flight from Shep- pey ; he was taken with the king, and " at that very moment a band of rioters was employed in pillaging his house (at St. Stephen's) and shooting his deer." (Macaulay, i. 570.) About 1780 this house was entirely pulled downi ; and the present Hales Place (Miss Hales) built on the ground above. This is of red brick and ugly ; but there are elm avenues and old trees aboixt it, iir the shade of which Sir Roger de Coverley and " the short-faced gentleman " would have delighted. There is a R. C. cliapel attached to the house. Slurry, 2 m. (Esturai — Stour Kent. Route 9. — Heme Bay. 189 Island). At this point an omnibus meets the trains for Heme Bay. [The road from Stnrry to Heme Bay, although hilly and varied, is not, as French guide-books would say, very " fertile en emotions." From the top of Storry Hill there is a good view back over Caiiterbury. About 3 m. on rt., in the parish of Hoath, are some very scanty remains of the Archiepiscopal Palace of Ford, the most ancient (except Canter- bury) belonging to the see, to which it was given by Ethelbert. The house, which was of brick and extensive, was rebuilt by Abp. Morton. Cranmer re\nowed tlie " Articles of Eeligion " here in 1552, and had many " friendly conferences' ' at Ford with Ridley, then vicar of Heme, the adjoining parish. Here too he was apprehended and committed to the Tower after the accession of Mary. Parker wished to pull it down and enlarge Bekesbourne, but the Queen would not consent. Whit- gift uged to himt in the park ; an im- archiei)iscopal recreation, punished in the person of his successor. Abbot, who after accidentally killing a keeper with an arrow in Bi'ainshill Park, Hants, spent the period of his disgrace here. Tiie Parliament de- molished Ford and sold the ma- terials. It was restored by Charles II., but the archbishops were freed by Act of Parliament from keeping it in repair, together with the palaces at Canterbury and Bekesbourne. The village of Heme, 2 m., is ' pleasantly surrounded by wood. The number of herons once to be found on the coast are said (but questionably) to have given its name to this parish, and to that of Heme Hill, near Favcrsham. The large ch. (Dec. and Perp.) contains some fine Brasses : John Daruley, \'icar, " Qui pater mornm fiiit, et ilos philosophoruni," says the inscription, the date of which is lost — Sir Peter Hal 1 and wife, " a fine si^fecimen of com- plete plate armour " (i?0Mfp?/), 1420 — Lady Fineanx, 1539 — Cliristian Philp, 1-170, wife of the lord mayor who led the London citizens to Bar- net and was knighted on the field : the hands are spread oi^en, forming a cross, and the unusual inscription runs, "Qui migi'avit ab hac valle miserie." In this ch. the " Te Deum " is said to have been sung for the first time in English, whilst Bp. Eidley was its vicar. " Farewell, Heme," are the words in his " last farewell " — " thou worshipful and wealthy parish, the first cure where- unto I was called to minister God's word. Thou hast heard of my mouth oft time the word of God preached, not after the popish trade, liut after God's gospel. Oh that the fruit had answered to the seed ! But I bless God for all that godlj- vii-tue and zeal of Citod's word which the Lord i)y preaching of his word did kindle manifestly both in the heart and the life of that godly woman there, my Lady Fiennes." The brass of Lady Fineaux, near the altar (akeady noticed), probably commemorates the same jierson. Close to the ch. is Stroud Park ( May, Esq.). A walk across the fields leads direct to Heme Biuj, which is still 1^ m. distant by the main road. The town here has sprung up very recently, but already contains large and good houses, and excellent bathing ac- commodation. Inn: The Dolphin. There is a long pier used as a promenade, and the usual delights of watering-places — reading-rooms, shrimps, and German l)ands — abound. The wide open bay atfords a magnificent expanse of sea. Canary Grass, first introduced by the Flem- ings of Sandwich, is much grown on the neiglibouring farms. (See Infrod. : Kent.) Tile most interesting place to be visited fi'om Heme Bay is Beculver, which is more easily reached from here than from any other point. The distance is about 3 m. The fullest 190 Route 9. — Eecuher. Sect. I. account of tlie old fortress, and of the remains discovered there, will be found in Mr. G. E. Smith's ' AittiqiU- ties of Bichborough, Becitlver, and Ltjmne.' Eeculver, the ancient " Re- gulbiura," was the sister fortress of Richborough (Rutupia!), and pro- tected the " Yenlade '' or north mouth of the Wantsome, dividing Thanet from the main land, just as Rutupiaj did the south. (See Rkhborougli, Rte. 10). Both fortresses rose into impor- tance, and were proljably increased in strength, during the latter period of Roman domination, when the " Saxon shore,'' as this part of Kent was called, was constantly lialjle to the descents of northern rovers. There was no Roman road from Regulbium ; and as it lay out of the direct line, it is only mentioned in the Notitia and the Antonine Itinerary, from the first of which we learn that it was then (a.d. 400- 450) garrisoned by the first cohort of the Vetasii — Belgians from Brabant — under the command of a tribime. Reculver wants the impressive dignity of Richborough, so much of the walls having been either de- stroyed or concealed by the soil. The S. and E. walls are yet standing, but much shattered, and covered with ivy, elder-bushes, and wild fig-trees wliicli sometimes ripen their fruit. The N. wall has been entirely desh-oyed by the sea, and much of the W. has been levelled. When entire, the Castrum occupied about 8 acres. There are no traces of towers. The entrance was in the centre of the W. wall. The walls, when perfect, with their facings, were aljout 12 ft. thick. They are built of flints and pebbles, intermixed with layers of septaria— stones found in the London clay, like flints in chalk, and probably brought from the Isle of Sheppey. There are no tiles, such as occur largely at Richborough, the absence of which is very rare in the S. of England, although usual in theN. In Leland's time the sea was 5 m. distant from the Castrum. In 1780 it had advanced close under it, and the N. wall was overthrown by a fall of the clifl'. It is still gaining on the land, but the force of the waves has been cheeked by an artificial causeway of stones and large wooden piles driven into the sands. The average waste of the clift' between the N. Foreland and Reculver, about 11 m., is 2 ft. per annum. {Sir C. Lyell.) The Saxon meniories of Regul- bium, now called Eaculf Ceastre, Recnher, are at least as interesting as the Roman. Ethelbert, after his baptism, retired here, having built a palace out of the remains of the fortress. His former palace in Can- terbury, with a ch. or basilica ad- joining, he gave up to Augustine as the foundation of the new cathedral. It is possible, suggests Mr. Stanley, that Ethelbert may have been in some measiu'e influenced by what he had heard of the greater convert Constantine, his donation of the "States of the Church" to Pope Sylvester, and his retirement to Con- stantinople. " Ethelbert's wooden palace was to him what the Lateran was to Constantine. Ai;gustine was his Sylvester — Recidver his Byzan- tium." (H. Mem. 21.) " This wild spot is the scene which most closely connects itself with the remembrance of that good Saxon king," who was traditionally said to have been buried here. The " strong masomy of the Roman walls, which he must have seen and handled," at all events re- mains ; and on a board aflixed to the wall of the ch. was to be read, luitil very lately, the inscription, "Here lies Ethelbert, Kentish King whilome." (He was in fact bm-ied in St. Augus- tine's, Canterbury.) In 669 King Egbert gave Reculver to " Bassa, a mass priest, to build a minster," and in !»49 Eadred gave the monastery so built, "cum tota villa," to Ch. Ch. Canterbury. The original char- ter, m the handwriting of Dunstan, Kent. Route 9. — Sturry. — Fordmch. 191 " propriis digitoriim articulis," is still preserved and may be seen in tlic cathedral library. The manor still belongs to the archbishops. Abp. Berchtiiald, d. 731, the successor of Theodore of Tarsus, "the philoso- pher," and the first native Saxon who ruled the see imder his o\m name, was Abbot of Keculver. Deus- dedit, d. (J64, was the ouly Saxon archbishop before liim. The Church of Eeculver, fidl of interest, " a moniunent of the down- fall of paganism and the triumph of Christianity," was barbarously pulled down in 1809. The vicarage-house, adjoining, was converted into a pub- lic-house. The ch. contained some portions of a Roman building, form- ing the arches into the choir (for drawings see C. B. Smith's Anti- quities of Eeculver, p. 197). The W. towers, called " The Sisters," visible from a great distance, and a land- mark at sea, are now the sole sur- viving relics. A tradition, unsup- ported l)y any autliority, asserts that these towers were built by an Abbess of the "poor nuns of Davington," near Faversham, who, as with her sister she was proceeding in fulfil- ment of a vow from Faversham to the chapel of the Virgin at Broad- stairs, was wrecked at Eeculver, where her sister died. The Abbess is said to have biiilt the ch. towers in memory of the event, and as a warning guide to future sailors along the coast. The beach below is strewed with bones from the church- yard. The ancient remains dis- covered at Eeculver have been much scattered, and the principal notice of them will be found in the Antiqiii- tates Eutupinse of Batteley (1711), who, when rector of Adisham, made extensive researches at Eeculver. A bronze slrigil, used in the bath, is preserved in the library of Trinity College, Cambridge, and mmierous Saxon " sceattas " are figured in Mr. Smith's Antiquities. There is a little inn near the Castrum, rejoicing in the name of the " Elhelberfs Arms," at which the visitor will find rude accommodation. Some distance from the coast between Wliitstable and Margate, is the Pan Sand or PuddiHg-pan, Bock, from which oyster fishers constantly dredge up gi'eat quantities of Samian pottery. " It has been supposed by some, that a vessel laden with Samiau ware may have foundered here. Others suggest that a pottery has been submerged. As the sea has made extensive im-oads upon this coast, it is more than probable that the locality which furnishes the ware was formerly dry gromid ; but neither of these theories seem altogether satisfactory" (C. B. Smith). The weight of evidence is against the manufactory of Samian pottery.] The chancel of Sturry Chiu-cli, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is Norm., the rest Perp. The manor was part of the original grant of Ethelbert to St. Augustine's Monastery. The abbots had a summer residence here, in which, after the dissolution, the last abbot died. (Twine, de Beb. Albion.) The whole manor had been assigned to him. Near the ch. are some few relies of Sturry Court, a James I. house of the Lords Strangford. On the opposite bank of the Stour is the village of Fordtcich, a member of the Sandwich Cinque Port. Before the great changes on the coast, the tide flowed as high as this ; ships were moored here, and goods landed. The Domesday survey records 10 mills and 7 fisheries on the stream at this point, so much larger was it than at present. The manor was given by the Confessor to St. Augustine's. Ford- wieh trout (still to be taken) difl'er "from all others in many consider- ables," says Fuller, " as, greatness, — colour, cutting white instead of red when in season, — cunning, not being takeable with an angle,— and abode, remaining 9 months in the sea. 192 Route 9. — Chistlet. — Minster. Sect. I. whence they observe their coming up almost to a day." They are salmon peel. An ancient stone shrine (?) figured by Hasted, and said by him to liave been removed from tlie nave of Fordwich Chin-ch to tlie cathedral precincts, does not now appear to exist. From Grove Ferry 6 m., famous for its strawberry gardens, it is pos- sible to visit the Koman station of Reculver, distant about G m. It is liowever more conveniently readied from Heme Bay (see ante). Chistlet, 1^ m., an ancient manor of Ch. Ch., Canterbury, has an interesting E. E. ch., with a low massive tower at the intersection of nave and chancel. The interior corbels of the chancel windows (long lancets) have monas- tic heads with admirably varied ex- pressions, some of which it is ditiicult to believe not to be portraits. 1 m. beyond, the rail passes Sarre, where, before the drjang up of the Want- sniiie, was the main ferry into the Isle of Thanet. The Wantsome was the name given to the sea passage between Richborough and Reculver, which cut off Thanet from the main land. The wide-spreading marshes vt. of the railway, through which the Stour now drains itself, were partly formed from the ch-ying up of this channel, along the ancient bed of which, once ploughed by Roman galleys and the " dragons " of the N'orthmcn, the railway passes till it reaches Minster, 4 m., where is the junction of the Deal line with that to Rarasgate and IMargate. Opposite Minster Church, the tower of which looks out from among its old trees, 1., was Minster fleet, a little creek in wliicli lay the ships bound for this place. This parish was made the scene of a remarkable legend, in which Kemble (Sax. in. Enrj. i. 348) finds ti-aees of ancient heathenism. Egbert, fourth CliristianKing of Kent, had unjustly excluded his cousins from the throne. and ordered his lieutenant, Thmior, to put them to death. This was done, and the bodies were buried under the king's own throne. But a mysterious light revealed the place. Egbert was terrified, and by the advice of A.h'p. Theodore he seiit to Dompncva, sister of the mra'dered princes, to ask forgiveness and pay the wergyld. Dompneva desired to have land for founding a monastery — as much as a hind could run over at one course. The king agreed ; and the hind was accordingly let loose in Thanet in his presence. Thunor endeavoured to stop it by riding across its com-se : but the earth opened and swallowed him, "et in infernum cum Dathan et Abiram absorbetur." The hind continued her course straight across the island, having nui over about 48 plough- lands. The monastery (Minster) was founded on the ground thus acquired by Dompneva, who was the first abbess. Mildred, her daughter, a yet greater saint, succeeded, and ruled over the " great multitude of virgins." The house flourished until 1011, when it was destroyed by Sweyn of Denmark, and the abbess with her nuns were burnt within the walls. Knut, Sweyn's son, gave the land and site of the monasteiy to St. Augustine's at Canterbury. The gift included the body of the "Nardiflua Virgo," St. Mil- dred, which had escaped the Danish ravages, and which, after declining to move, at last yielded to the prayers of the abbot, who took it from its tomb by night, and tied with it in haste to the feriy, pursued by the men of Thanet, unwilling to lose so great a treasure. It was, however, safely conveyed to St. Augustine's, where its miracles soon became of great reputation. The present Chitrcli was erected after the land had become the pro- I perty of St. Augustine's. It is large and important, and well deserves a visit. The nave is late Norm. ; the Kext. Route 9. — Minster. — St. Mildred's Lynch. 193 transepts and choir E. E. The choir is vaulted in 4 bays, sjiringing from shafts between 4 very lofty E. E. \vindows. The E. window is a triplet E. E., with clustered shafts between the lights. In the choir are 18 miserere stalls, with very perfect grotesques. On the base of the second pilaster, N. side of choir, is scratched in letters of early form, "discat qui nescit q'' trot — hie re- quiescit." The name has been partly obliterated, and it seems more than probable that the inscription is not much more ancient than tliat dis- covered in Mr. Oldbuck's prsetorium. The transept vaidting was perhajis never comi^leted. The commence- ment of each bay alone remains. Within the tower is a Norm, door, with tympanum. At the N. end of the N. transept is the arched tomb of Edila deThorne ; the brass is gone. In the S. aisle of nave is the old Bible pew, with the fragment of a brass-studded cover still chained to it. Remark also a very ancient iron-bound chest, of which the lid is a romided oak trunk. The ancient wealth of the Kentish yeo- man, which beat "a gentleman of Wales, a knight of Cales, or a laird of the North countrie," is indicated by two large black marljle altar- tombs, in this aisle, elaborately de- corated with death's heads and in- scriptions to match. The spire was originally surmounted by a cross, but this was removed in 1G47 by "Blue Dick," the famous Canterbmy fa- natic ; who, when Meric Casaubon, the previous vicar, refused the Cove- nant, obtained the grant of the se- questration. E. of the churchyard is Minster Court, (John Swinford, Esq.), the manor-house in which the monks resided who cared for the estate. There are still some remains of the old building ; the chief relic being what seems to have once formed an entire house, dating late in 12th cent. One end is now joined to other buildings. In the other is a Norm, window ; the interior has been entirely modernized. This was probably the original grange. The great barn or " Spicarium," 352 ft. long, by 47 wide, with chestnut roof, was burnt by lightning in 1700. The abbot had much difficulty with his tenants here, descendants of the fierce old Jutes. In 1318 they at- tempted to destroy the manor-house, besieged the mouisin it for 15 days, cut down trees, and bm-nt all the abljot's ploughs and carts. The varying "rents and services" were the grounds of quarrel. [Minster is perhaps the most con- venient point from which to reach St. NicJwlas Clrurch — well worth a visit. The high ground toward the centre of Thanet, which will be crossed on the way, commands one of the most interesting prosjiects in England. A wooded lane beyond the manor- house leads ui^ward to the liigher part of the island, along which ran the line of the Lynch or raised green way, said to mark the course of Dompneva's deer, and serving as the boundary of the parish. Some traces of it may perhaps be found near the inn on the hill-top, called Prospect House, but the greater part has been broken up, notwithstanding the old monastic rhyme : — " Cultor sive sator, hujus metse violator, Cum Thunor atra metit, inde baiatra petit." It was known as "St. Mikh-ed's Lynch," she having been jjatron saint of the district. St. Mildred's rock with the impression of her foot was long shown at Ebb's fleet (when she took the i^lace of St. Augustine, see post), and she once saved Minster from an attack of Edward I. who had claimed the manor for the crown. Being at Canterbmy on St. Mildred's Eve, the king dreamt that he was crossing the straits from Flanders, and that, being overtaken by a great storm, he made for Thanet, but was 194 Route 9. — Isle of Thanet. Sect. I. in-evented from Linding by a royal virniii, luilnted like a imii, who " put olt" the king's vessel with her stall"." King Edward complained ; but was awakened by the ringing of bells on St. Mildred s morning, whose power he recognised, and abandoned his purpose. Close to Prospect House is Minster Chalkpit, long called Thu- nor's Leap, since it was at this spot that the minister of King Egbert was swallowed up. The king stood close by, says the legend, to see the deer run. Thunor (the thunder) is probably a recollection of the old Northern god so called. In no other instance does it occur among the Anglo-Saxons as the name of a man. i^Kemble.) The hill beyond Prospect House is one of the highest points in Thanet ; and some general notice of the island may perhaps be most fittingly read here. Tenet — Tanet-lond (Sax. tene, a fire or beacon), probably re- ceived its name from the many beacons or watch-fires lighted up on this im2:)ortant outpost to give warn- ing of api^roaching sails, " To tell tbat the ships of the Dimes And the red-haired spoilers were nigh." Its British name was Ituim — a headland (so Ilanie Head, W. point of Plymouth Sound). Its Koman occupation is proved by the great number of interments and of Eoman coins, " liald pennies " as they are called, which have been foimd here ; and its early Saxon (or Jutish) colony by the extensive cemetery inOsengal Hill, near Ramsgate. The length of the island, between Sarre and the N. Foreland, is 9 m. ; the breadth, at the narrowest part, is 4 — between Margate and Sandwich 8. The Want- some or sea passage which divided it from the main land — one-third of a mile wide in Bede's time, and passable only at Sarre and Wade — through which the waters of the Stour anciently passed N. and S. to Rich- borough and to Reculver (where the N. mouth of the Wantsome was called the Yenlade), began to dry up at a very early period. It was the general passage for the Danish ships Londonward, after touching at Sand- wich ; but the Sandwich harliom- and the Wantsome shared the same fate, and became finally closed about 1500, nearly at the same time as the Damme inlet (the i)ort of Bruges), on the opposite coast of Flanders, also became imjjassable. The island seems to have extended much farther seaward in Bede's time, who says it contained land enough for GOO families. It now contains about 28,000 acres of arable land, and 3500 of marsh and pastiu-es. On the high ground there is at i^resent but little wood ; Domesday, however, mentions 1000 acres of forest. The Pop. when Lewis Avrote (1723) was 8800; it is now aliout 40,000. The soil is gene- rally light and challvy, and a wet summer, elsewhere a great evil, is here rather longed for. Hence a local proverb — " When England wrings, The island sings." Yet Thanet is rich and fmitful : " Insula rotunda Thanatos fjuam circuit tinda, FertilisetmundanuUi est inorbe secunda" was the inscription which formerly encircled the chancel of Monkton Chiu'ch in the valley below. Much corn seems to have been grown here at a very early period, — possibly for exportation to the continent. Solinus calls Thanet " frumentariis campis felix." It had been blessed, " con- traxit benedictionem," ever since Au- gustine had first set foot on it. No snake or rat could live within its Ijounds {Hi<iden^ any more than in Ireland, or in the triangular patch of holy ground between the hills of Glastonbury. Until the beginning of the last cen- Kent. Route 9. — Isle of Thanet. 195 tiuy, owing partly to its being diffienlt of access, and to its lying off the main roads, Thauet was in nearly as wild a state as the remotest parts of Corn- wall. " The inhahitauts," says Cam- elen, " arc a sort of amphiliions crea- tm-es, equally skdled in holding helm and plough." In Lewis's time (1723) "they made two voyages a year to the North Seas, and came home from the latter soon enough for tlie men to go to wheat season, and take a winter tlu-esh, which last they have done time enough to go to sea in the spring." They were good sailors, but " it's a thousand pities they are so apt to pilfer stranded ships. This they call Paultring, and of the goods saved they make what they call Qaile shares between each other." There was then a local rhyme which ran thus — " Ramsgate herrings, Peter's lings, BroaJstairs' scrubs, and Margate liings" — indicating the great poverty of all but the last jjlace, which from its London trade was wealtliy. Lewis mentions as a peculiarity of the " Thanet people that they gave to th the sound of cZ," as "dat man dere," for " that man there." This, however (which was not confined to Thauet, but extended over much of Kent and Sussex), is now greatly changed, together with the ancient farming, which " cast the straw into the king's highway to make dimg." " Sainte Foine, or wholesome hay, a French grass," had just been introduced, in 1720, together with the planting of beans. At present, Thanet is not beliind the rest of the world in good farming ; and sundry " noisome savours," in which modern agricultiu-e rejoices, — such as that of burning kelp on the shore, whicli had once been "cursed out of the country," — have reappeared, and are very far from bestowing an additional charm on tlie sea-breezes. Thanet confers the title of Earl on the family of Tufton ; whose peerage dates from 1G28. Tlie high ground above Prosi^ect House is interesting, not only from its wide view, but from its having possibly been the scene of one of the most important events in the history of Thanet and of England, the first meeting of Augustine the missionary with King Ethelbert. It is said by Lewis, apparently from old tradition, to have occurred here, under an oak, a sacred tree with Germans as well as Britons. Ethel- bert, after Augustine's landing at El)be's fieet, had ordered him to re- main in Thanet, with the Wantsome, then 3 " fmlongs " broad, between the Kentisli king and the strangers ; and afterwards arranged that their first conference should take place in the open air, for fear of magical in- fluences. " The meeting must have Ijcen remarkable. Tlie Saxon Iving, ' son of the ash-tree ' (^scing), with his wild soldiers round, seated on the bare groimd on one side — on tlie other, with a huge silver cross borne before him, and beside it a large picture of Christ painted and gilded, on an upright board, came up from the shore Augustine and his companions ; chanting, as they advanced, a solemn Litany, for them- selves and for those to whom they came. He, as we are told, was a man of almost gigantic stature, head and shoulders taller than any one else ; with him were Lawrence, who afterwards succeeded lum as Abp. of Canterbury, and Peter, who be- came the first abbot of St. Augus- tine's. They and their companions, amounting altogether to forty, sat down at the king's command, and the interview began." (Stanley's II. Mem. of Canterbury.') After ob- taining the king's consent to their teaching they crossed to Kichbo- rough, and so advanced by the old 196 Route 9. — MonTiton. — St. Nicholas at Wade. Sect. I. Koman road to Canterbury. The liiritory of their institutions there has ah-eady been traced (Kte. 8). Few prospects are of higher his- torical interest tlian this from the hills of Thanet. Far aud wide, and glowing with corn-fields, spreads out the panorama of East Kent, with its old Saxon graveyards and memo- rials. Ebbe's fleet, where Augustine landed and where Hengist is said to have landed before Mm, may be ti-aced by its line of trees in the marsh S. Beyond are visible the massive walls of Kutupite (Eich- borough), with the glimmer of the " Pontus Eutupinus " along the moutli of the mined harbour of Sandwich. N. are the twin spires of Eeculver (Eegidbium), and W. the great towers of Canterbury cathe- di'al rise dark against the blue dis- tance. An entire history of England lies open before us. The veiy changes of the landscape, — the white train smoke, the sea covered with sails, the rich cultivation, — suggest the contrast of that distant time when Augustine landed here "in tinibus mundi," a messenger to a barbarous people, whose land was covered with thick woods and desolate marshes, — yet bringing with him the germs of so much coming change aud pros- perity. The church and manor of Monk- ton, seen among the trees below, was granted by Queen Edgifa to Oh. Ch., Canterbmy, " monkis for to feecle,"accordingto the Chapter-house picture. The ch. has fragments of all periods, and from the exterior arches in the S. wall seems to have been larger. At the W. end were the verses quoted above. Tlio " antient spiral staircase of wood " mentioned by Hasted does not now exist. There is a monument to " that modest gentlewoman," Frances Ble- cheden, " who enjoyed 3 husbands." Brass: a priest in chasuble, 1450, a very fine example. The farm ad- joining, on the site of the old manor- house, seems still capable of feeding many monks. A road over wide open fields leads to St. Nicholas at Wade, where was one of the two fords over the Want- some. It was at first a chapel at- tached to Eeculver, but was after- wards transferred to the monks of Ch. Ch., to whom the erection of the large and interesting ch. is owing. The S. side of the nave is late Norm. The 3 upi^ermost of the 5 bays are circ, richly cai-ved. The piers have circ. columns half attached, with rich capitals. The piers of the N. aisle are octangular, witli moidded capitals E. E. Each aisle terminates in a chancel, parallel with that of the nave, into which the N. chancel opens with 2 E. E. arches. The win- dows in all the chancels are Dec, and the great E. window strongly resembles (but is not identical with) the Auselm window in Canterbury Catheih-al. The font is E. E. The tower at the end of S. aisle is late Dec, the vaulting having either been destioyed or never fijiished; the brackets remain. The nave is flat, and ceiled, and has a chandelier with crown and mitre for weights. In the N. chancel is a good -Brass (1559) of Valentine Everard, two wives and sou. The porch has a parvise cham- ber. The ch. is built of sea-worn flints, with much rough brick (Eo- man?) interspersed. The eastern dripstones of the tower window, en- ciTisted with nests of the " temple- hamiting martlet," represent heads of a bishop and prior. The whole building proves the care and ex- pense bestowed by the monks on their ofi"-lying manors. From St. Nicholas it is possible to cross the marshes to Eecrdver, but the path is dangerous, and not to be reconimended.3 From Minster, the rail proceeds, skirting the marshes, aud passing through a deep cutting in Osengal mil, with its Saxon cemetery (see post), to Kent. Fioute 9. — Ramsgate. — Pegicell Bay. 197 5 m., Bams(jaie (Pojj. 11,000). Inns : Albion ; George Watson's ; Royal Hotel (a tariff of charges hung in each room) ; and niany others. At Ramsgate {Eium's gate, the Gate of Eium, tlie British name of Thanet — Gate, Loth here and on the Flemish coast, signifying a passage between dunes or clifls to the sea) the chalk reappears ; a In'oad space of open marshland extending from this point to the clitfs Ijeyond Deal. As a watering-place Ramsgate is slightly more aristocratic than Mar- gate, though the difference is not con- siderable. The season is the latter end of the summer and the autumn, when the demands of lodging-house keepers become extravagant. Board- ing-houses and lodgings of all kinds abound ; and from the situation of the town, most of them command good sea-views. Every usual sea- side accommodation or amusement is to be found here. Tlie climate is far more bracing than that of the southern coast ; and it is found to have an especially favourable in- fluence in all cases of scorbutic disorder. Ramsgate, which had hitherto been a small fishing village, began to in- crease in importance toward the be- ginmng of the last century, " through the successful trade of its inhabitants to Russia and the east country." The commencement of its pier in 1750 proves that this trade was not then declining. This pier, which was built chiefly of Purbeck stone, is described by Pennant (1787) as tlie "finest existing," ajid it still ranks among the most important works of its kind. Great improvements have, however, been made here .since the beginning of the century. There are now 2 pier.s, forming excellent promenades, and enclosing tlie small harbour, which covers an area of about 40 acres. Tliis serves as a "harbour of refuge " for tlie Downs, wliieli stretch away in front of it. On tlie W. pier-head is a lighthouse ; 400 [Kent & Sussex.'] sail have been received in this har- bour at one time. An oljelisk near the pier commemorates the df-par- ture of George IV. from this place for Hanover. On the Parade, and close to the sea, is St. Aucjustine's — tlio Gothic villa built by, and long the residence of, A. W. Pugin, Esq. The sea and Christian areiiitecture were, in his opinion, " the only tilings wortli living far." He was indiftlr- eut to the roughest weather ; and rendered frequent help with his ov*n cutter iir cases of sliipwreck. The village of St. Lawrence, the ch. wliich gives name to the parish in which Ramsgate stands, lies inland about 5 in. It has a central Norm. tower, with external arcade. In it is a good Jlrass of Nicli. Mansion, 1444. St. Lawrence was at first a chapelry attached to Minster, but was made paroeliial in 1275. At Manstun Conii, 1 m., the family of Manston were settled as early as the reign of John. The mansion, which is ancient, has now become a farmliouse. There are considerable remains of the chajiel. 2 m. farther, at Thome, long the residence of a family of the same name, are parts of a good Dec. house, witli some of the original windows remaining. PecjiceU. Bay, which stretches in- land between Ramsgate and Sand- wich, is the traditional scene of two famous landings,— that of Hengist and Horsa, and that of St. Augiistine in 597. The historical character of the first is very questionable : for ample details of the second, see 3Ir. Sfaiilei/'s ' Historical Memorials of Canterbury— Tlie Lanchng of Au- gustine.' The actual sjjot where the Christian missionaries first set foot on English ground was Ebhe's fleet [fleet is port, harbour), "still the name of a farm-liouse on a strip of liigh ground rising out of Minster marsh," now some distance inland, Ijut evidently at one time a pro- montory running out between the estuary of the Stour and Pegwell 198 Route 9. — Hill of OsengalJ. Sect. I. Bay. " The tradition that ' some lamling ' took phi,ce here, is still pre- served at the farm, and the field of clover ■whioli rises immediately on its N. side is still shown as the spot.'" (Stanley.) The landing of Hengist is also jilaeed at Ebbe's fleet by tlie Saxon Clironiclcr ; and afterwards Bt. IMildred, the great saint of Thanet, Avas said to have left her footmark on a rock there, which, if ever re- moved, had the power of flying liack to its original place. The mark was also called 8t. Augnstine's, and be- longs to a class of snperstitions fonnd almost throughont the world. (Com- pare Adam's footi)rint in Ceylon, Ma- homet's in the Mosque of Omar, &c.) " In later times the footmark became an object of i^ilgrimage, and u little chai)el was built over it." These several instances prove that Ebbesfleet was the ordinary land- ing-place in Thanet. Augustine's subsequent interview with Etlielbert may have taken place here ; but the more ]n-ol)able scene of it, according to local trachtion, was the high ground above Minster. (See ante.) The missionaries at all events crossed from here to llichborough on tlieir first advance to Canterbury. (See Ete. 10.) The hill of Omujull, about U m. from Eamsgate, should be visited as ■well for the sake of its noble view as for tlie interesting associations connected witli the site. In cutting the railway through tlie chalk of which the hill consists, it was found tiiat tlie whole of its summit was covered with the graves of the first Saxon settlers in Thanet — about 200 of wliich are supposed to have )>een destroyed, and their contents thrown carelessly aside, before the attention of Mr. Rolfe of Sandwich was called to the .spot. He at once obtained exclusive permission to excavate in different parts of tlic hill ; and nu- incriius graves have been opened by liim since the summer of ISIO. " Tlie graves are dug into the chalk, on an average not more than 4 feet deep, and often less. They lay apjiarently in rows, and were no doubt originally covered, like tho Saxon graves in other jiarts of tho island, witli low mounds or barrows, wliich have been levelled with the surrounding .soil by tlie action of wind and weather." The remains found in the graves are all of the heathen period — the latter part of the 5th and Gth cents., "and illus- trate a period of the history of our island concerning which we have no otlicr authentic record. Their pe- culiar interest arises from the cir- cumstance that it was the custom of the Anglo-Saxons, l)eforo their conversion to Christianity, to bury their dead in their best garments, W'ith tlieir arms and personal orna- ments, and with every variety of imijlement and utensil to whicli they had shown any attachment." {Wright.) Strings of glass and amber beads, coins (sceattas, and in one instance a fresh and unworn gold Byzantine coin of the Emi:)eror Justin, wlio reigned from 518 to 527), brooches, and weapons (spear-heads, swords, knives, and fragments of sliields), are the principal objects found. In one grave was discovered "a beautiful pair of bronze scales, delicately shajjed, and a complete set of weights formed out of Roman coins." Some few of the graves are decidedly Roman— and in these the interment has been made in the Roman and not in the Saxon man- ner — indicating that " a Roman and a Saxon population lived simul- taneously, and probably mixed to- gether, in tlie Isle of Thanet.'' At whatever period the interments commenced here, tliey must have been continued up to the time of Ethelbert— a fact wliich gives an ad<liiional interest to his interview with Augustine, wliich, whether it occurred at Ebbesfleet or above Minster, must have taken place in full view of the great Saxon ceme- Kent. Route 9 . — Broadstairs. — Margate. 199 terj' where tlie " followers of Hengist and Horsa " had been interred for at least two cents. The view from Osengall, in all its main features, resembles that already notieed above Minster — "a noble burial-place for men whose birthright it was to play with the ocean, and who had so recently made themselves masters of the valleys that lay extended below." (^Wrlcjht — Wanderhvjs of an Antiquary ; where will be found an interesting account of tliesc graves, and of the discoveries made m them.) At East CZ/f (Sir M. Montefiore), 5 m., some remarkable {)assages have been cut in the chalk, leading from the upper clifis to the shore. Broadstairs, 3 m. from Eamsgate {Inns: Albion; Prince Albert), much quieter than either Eamsgate or INIargate, is in many respects pre- ferable as a bathing-place. The sands are firm and good ; and from the parade on the clifts above, the sea- view is grand, and unbroken, except by the line of the French coast 8. Lodgings are good and plenty, and all other conveniences are amply supplied. The breadth of its sea-gate gave name to Broadstairs. This passage was defended by strong doors within a stone portal arch, some part of which remains. A little above was a chapel dedicated to " Our Lady of Broadstairs," of so great I'ciiutation that ships lowered their topsails in sailing by it. (Some part of this chapel is retained in the present Baptist Meeting-house.) The cod lisheries of Iceland and the Northern Seas were greatly frequented about 1759 by vessels from Broadstairs, owing to which the prosperity of the place rapidly increased. 1^ m. inland from Broadstairs is St. Peter's — like St. Lawrence, at first a chapelry to Minster, and after- wards made parochial. The ch. is mainly Ptrp., and of some interest. In the churchyard is the headstone of Eichard Joy, called the Kentish Samson, whose feats of strength were the marvel of all this district in the early part of the last century. Among them, he is said to have pulled successfully against a horse of unusual power, to have lifted a weight of 2240 lbs., and to have broken a rope capable of suijjoortiug 35 cwt. St. Peter's has many pleasant houses scattered about it, and the situation is altogether agreeable. Lowell Hill, in this jiarish, is the highest ground in Thanet. From Kamsgate a course of 4 m. across the island brings the tourist to Margate. — Inns: York Hotel; Duke's Head; White Hart. Lodg- ings are good and plentiful ; varying in price according to the sea-view. Steamers run daily to and from Jjondon. Of all English "Aljigails in cast gowns," as Horace Walpole calls watering-places " that mimic the capital, Margate is without doubt the least aristocratic, though, per- haps, not the least amusing. Like Brighton, it is conqjletely a srdanrb of Loudon ; and a iluctuating popu- lation of between 50,000 and 100,000 is poured into it during the season by railway and steamers, to which latter IVIargate is indebted for its prosperity ; since all the modern buildings and accommodation of the place date from their hrst introduc- tion here about 30 years since. Margate, however, began to be sought as a bathing-place toward the middle of the last century ; its tirm and smooth sands being a great attraction. Bathing-machines were used here for the hrst time in Eng- land, about 1790. Their projector, Benjamin Beale, a Quaker, was an inhabitant of Margate, and ruined himself in establishing his invention. {Hasted.) The gate or sea passage luy " close to a little mere (used in this jjart of Kent to signify a streandet\ called h 2 ' 200 Route 9. — Margate. — Bivchington. Sect. I. ' the Brooks;" " hence the name Mere- giite or INIargatc. Tlie original vil- lage was called St. John's, and clns- tcrcd abont tlio old C'hnrch of St. John, at the S. end of IMargate, The houses, like those of Flemish and Scots fishing towns, were generally of one story ; but the village was early in repute " for fishery and coast- ing trade," and most of the corn grown in the Island was lirought hero for conveyance to London. There was a wooden pier at Margate 'long before the reign of Henry A'lII., when Leland describes it as " sore -decayed." Tlie passage from England to Holland used frequently to be made from this place. The Elector Pala- tine, and the Princess Elizabeth, his wife, daughter of James I., embarked from here, ^^'illiam III. more than once sailed from Margate ; and "tliat successful and victorious general, tlie late Duke of Marlborough, used to choose this for his jilace of going abroad and landing, when he went nnd came to and from the several vam])aigns he made." (I'eiiunnt.) The existing pier, of Whitby stone, was completed by the engineer, John Eennie, in 1815. This is the Grand Promenade of IMargate, where the peculiarities of the place may be thoroughly studied. Strangers are admitted to tlie lighthouse on the pier, and the view from its siuumit will i-epay the labour of mounting. All the usual watering-place rc- isom'ces abound in IMargate. The Museum of the Literary Institution, in Hawley Square, contains some good specimens of British birds, and a collection of the native plants of 'i'hanet. Sf. Johns Church has Norm, por- lions ; and is rich in Brasses: Nicli. C.'antejs, 1431— Thos. Smith, vicar, 1433 ; John Daundelyon (the last male of his house), 1445 ; Kich. \otfield (a skeleton), 1446; John Sefowh^ and wife, 1475: Thos. C'ar- diif, vicar, 1515. The five bells aie famous. On the 4th is the inscrip- tion, " Missi de coelis habeo nomen Gabrielis." On the 5th, or tenor, "Daundeleon,I.H.S.;'J'rinitati sacra, sit hsoc campana beata." These two ])ells were cast by the same founder, probably a Fleming. The traditional rhyme concerning the latter runs thus : — " John de Daundelyon with his great Dog, Bnnight over this bell on a mill cog." The " dog " is explained as the name of the vessel in which the bell was conveyed. Daundehjon, the ancient manor of this family, lies about 1^ m. W. of Margate. It was long converted into a tea-garden, from which degra- dation it has been happily rescued. Of the older mansion the gateway alone remains, dating from about the reign of Heniy IV. It is built of iiint and brick in alternate rows, with loopholes and battlements above. Over the main gate are the arms of Dent de Lyon, which family was esta- blished here before the time of Ed- ward I. Underneath tlie rt. side of this gate was discovered, toward the end of the 17th cent., what seems to have been a Eoman sepulchral de- posit of unusual importance. The urns and glass vessels were arranged in a " room large enough to hold 8 or 10 persons." (Leivis's ' Thanef.') From Daundelion the tourist may proceed to Birchington, and return to Margate by Hengrove and Sal- meston. The Church of Birclu'injton, 2 m. beyond Daundelyon, contains some interesting Brasses : — John Felde, 1404 ; Joiin Quek and child, 1449 ; Richard Quek, 1459 ; Alys Crispe, 1518 ; John Heynys (vicar) ele- vating the host, 1523. In the church- yard liere, as in some others in tliis part of Kent, was a small building called the " wax-house," in which the lights used in the ch. and for processions were made. Great Quex (H. P. Cotton, Esq.), Kent. Route- P . — Hiiiigrovc. — Kiagsgate. 201 S. of the oil., was the scat of the Qneke or Quex family from the lieginning of the 15th cent. The Crispes succeeded them liere, through intermarriage with an heiress, temp. Hen. VII. It was at the old house here, which was of brick and partly timbered, that William III. Avas in the habit of resting before and after his passages to Holland. In 1057, during the Protectorate, Hem-y Crispe of Quex, a person of considerable im- portance, and a Puritan, was carried off from his own house here by Cap- tain Goldiug, a sanguine royahst, and long detained prisoner at Ostend and Bruges. The present house is modern, and the 2 towers in the park are good sea-marks. One of them contains a peal of 12 bells, in whose sweet voices the oi-iginal pro- prietor greatly delighted. At Hemjrove (1 m. S.E. of Daun- delyon) are some slight remains of a chapel attached to the manor. Salmeston ; beyond, about ^ m. from Margate, was a grange beh^nging to St. Augustine's, Canterbury. It is now a farm-house ; but great part of the original buildings, temp. Edw. II., remain, and are interesting. The two vdngs contain a hall and chapel — the windows in botli of whieli dis- play their original form and tracery. The chapel roof, with a king-post, open to the rafters, is good Dec. On the N. side of the cliapel is a liuild- ing now called the Infirmary— Dec, with tolerable 2 -light windows. From the courtyard, E. of the chapel, there is an entrance leading to a small crypt. (/. H. rnrlicr.) Beyond Salmeston, and closely adjoining Mar- gate, is Draper's Hospital, founded 1709 l)y a Quaker named ^Michael Yokely. 10 poor persons are ac- commodated here. The overseer was to be a Quaker, " with a conve- niencybyhis dwelling for a meeting- house." The inscription over the door indicates that the versifying powers of the Society of Friends were as yet undeveloped. xVt Nash Court, now a farm-house, 1 m. S. of Margate, are .some por- tions of 14th cent. work. The excursion to the Becuh-en^ (see ante) may be made from Blar- gate very pleasantly by water. Kingsgate, a pass to the sea about 3 m. E. of IMargate, was so called from its having been in 1(J83 the landing-place of Charles II. and James Duke of York in their way from London to Dover. Its former name was St. Bartholomew's Gate. No vestiges remain of the gate and portcidhs which once guarded the pass. Above the gate a mansion was built toward the middle of the last century by Henry Ijord Hollantl " to reiiresent Tully's Formian Villa."' " His Lordshiii," says Pennant, " might truly say, " Mea ncc Falern» Tempevant vites, neque Formianre Pocula coUes." The villa was full of true antiquities, and roiuid it were erected a variety of false ones, which are happUy fast disappearing. The " Convent," the most important among them, has been converted into a private resi- dence. The " Castle," originally in- tended for stables to the villa, has shared the same fat(\ " Harley Tower, built in the style of Koman architecture in honour of Thomas Harley, Lord Mayor of London," has been considerably heightened, and now serves as a landmark. At JLiclcendoivn JBaiilcs, a short distance S. of Kingsgate, 2 large tumuli were long pointed out as the graves of Danes and Saxons killed in a fierce battle on this spot. They were opened liy Lord Holland, and numerous remains discovered, though of what period seems micertain. The circular tower which now marks tin' spot was erected by Lord Holland, whose inscrijition gives SOO as the trachtional date of the battle. ^ m. beyond is the North Fordand, with its lighthouse, which may be ascended. Tliere w:>' a rude lim- 202 Route 10. — Canterhury to Dover. Sect. I. lierecl lighthouse here very early— a beacon for steering clear of the Goodwins. Tliis was burnt down about 1GS3, wlicn the present build- ing was erected. On the toji was at first an iron grate, open to the air, with a coal-fire. The arrangements of the present lantern, with its re- tlectors, and comj^aratively small lights, are well worth inspecting. The ancient beacon-fire eouhl hardly have been so eifective as its suc- cessor, which is visible at the Nore, a rUstance of 30 ra. The North Foreland is the Can- tium of Ptolemy. Oft" it, June 1-4, 1666, occurred the great sea-fight, lasting 4 days, in which the EngUsh were commanded by tlie Duke of Albemarle, the Dutch by De Euyter and De Witt. On this occasion the English fleet, of 54 sail, had encoun- tered the Dutch, of SO. Victory finally remained with the Dutcli, vet the English lost no honour. " They may be killed," said De Witt, "but they will not be conquered." On the 25th another action was fouglit, in which the English were victorious. ROUTE 10. FIIOM CANTERBURY, BY DEAL AND WALMER, TO DOVER. For the line from Canterbury to Minster Junction, where the rail branches to Margate, see Rte. 0. Leaving Minster Junction, after passing 4 m. through the marshes, iind under the cliff of Richborough, the wall of which is just visible as the traveller flies over the ground from which the Kutupian oysters were once collected for the delight of the discriuainating gourmands of Rome, we reach Sandwich (Pop. 2951— J«n, The Bell), one of the earliest and most important Ejiglish harboiu's, al- though now distant nearly 2 m. from the sea. Witliout anything very pic- turesque about it, the town has a strangely old-world and Plantagenet character. The streets and houses are so crushed together, and so in- tricate, and there is such an entire absence of all novelty, that the ge- neral impression is very great. It much resembles the less architec- tural jiarts of Bruges — a likeness in- creased by its large and numerous churches. The name "Sandwich" (the vil- lage on the sands) fir.st occurs in Eddius" ' Life of Wilfred,' who landed here after preaching among the Frisians about tlie year 665. The town gradually rose as the old har- bour of Eutui^iic became unavail- able. The Danes constantly landed here. Ethclred's fleet was collected at Sandwich to oppose them ; and about 1014 it became the most im- portant Englisli harbom- — "omnium Anglorum portuum famosissimus." Encomitini Eninix). The port was given by Canute to the monastery of Christ's Church, Canterbury, luit was afterwards exchanged by the monks for other lands. The horoiKjlt however still remained their pro- jierty, and contributed 40,000 her- rings " ad victum," besides clothing them. Sandwich is the most ancient of the Cinque Ports — probably suc- ceeding to the position of the Ro- man RutupicT. ; and all ports and creeks on the Kentish coast are (or were) members of it. (See Dover, for a general notice of the Cinque Ports). Becket escaped from here, having remained for some days at Eastry after the famous scene with the king at Northampton ; and landed here on his return in Dec. Kext. Route 10. — Sandinch. 203 1170, when lie was conducted in triumph to Canterbury, the people singing "Benedictus qui venit in nomine Domini," the hymn witli which Chark'magne had been re- ceived in Eome as the deliverer of tlie Cliurch from tlie Lombards. Cceur de Lion, on landing here from Antwerp after his Austrian imprison- ment, proceeded on foot to Canter- bury to return tlianlcs for his deli- verance to God and to St. Thomas. Edward III. usually sailed from here for France and Flanders ; and it was here that ho landed after the surrender of Calais. In 144(3 the recorders of the travels of the Bohe- mian ambassador, Leo von Rotzmital, describe Sandwich " as we might speak of Liverpool or Portsmouth ' — the resort of ships from all quarters — vessels of every size — in which the agility of tlie sailors in running up and down the masts called forth their especial admiration. It was the custom, they say, for bands of musicians to walk tlirougli the streets all night long, proclaiming, at inter- vals, the direction of the wind. Ten years later— in 145G — the town was biUTit, and nearly all the inhabitants killed, by the Marshal de Bre'ze'. It speedily recovered ; and the customs of Sandwich, temp. Edw. IV., yielded annually 17,000/. At this time it had 95 ships belonging to it, and 1500 sailors. The haven began to be difficult of access about 1500. A large ship belonging to Pope Paul IV., sunk at the mouth of the liarbour, hastened its destruction ; and, although in 1558 " a cunning and expert man in waterworks " was -sent for from Flanders to amend it, it was quite closed in another cen- tury. The town, however, had de- rived fresh importance from the great number of French and Flemish exiles — "they whom the rod of Alva bruised " — who settled here after the •' troubles." They were principally )>aize- workers and gardeners — and the first raarket-gai'deus ever seen in England were formed liy these " gentle and profital)le strangers," as Abp. Parker called them, in tho neiglibourhood of Sandwich. Tluir descendants were numerous, and kept to their old trades in Pennant's time. Sandwich celery is still much esteemed ; and tlie Flemish name of " polders " is still given to the re- claimed marshes W. of the town. Queen Elizabeth visited Sandwich 1572, when the streets were hung with garlands of vine-leaves, and Flemish and English children were placed spinning yarn on platforms. Her Majesty was "very merrie," and gave commendation to the orations and verses, especially to " a goldcTi cup of C. lib." the most cloc[uent of all. Six years later " a most tierce and terrible earthciuake" is recorded, which lasted "a paternoster while." It shook tlie churches, but " did little liarme." Sandwich has given tlie title of Earl to the Montague family since ](J50-in honour of one of whom (Cieorge III. s minister) its name was transferred to the South Sea group of islands, on their discovery by Capt. Cook in 1769. The ancient Custumal of Sandwich, tirst icritten in 1301, Init probably of much earlier date, will be found in Boyt' Hist, of Saiidirieh, and is of great interest. From it it appears that in tho Guestliug, which falls into the Stour above the town, female criminals were drowned, and that adjoining it were the Thief Downs (dunes?), where others were buried alive : an ancient German fashion, much in favour with Tacitus and Mr. Carlyle. The morass below the town is still called the Haven ; and through it the Stour winds so greatly that its course is nearly 4 m. in length before reaching the sea. The town is rectangular, and built on a flat elevated about 15 ft. al)ove the rest of the i)lain. The walls toward the river, W., were of stone-, the otliers of earth. Along 204 Route 10. — Sandwich. Sect. I, these a broad path has beeu made, affording curious views over the town ; which, with its garden spaces and drying- lie Ids, recalls the views of old Flemish cities illustrating Guicci- ardini's folio. There were five gates ; of which the only one remaining is Fisher s Gate, towards the haven. On the S. side of the town was the Castle, now quite gone. It was lield (1-17J i against Edward IV. by Falconbridge and his followers ; and was at length surrendered, to- gether with 13 ships, on promise of full pardon. Here the channel formerly opened to the sea. At the S.W. angle of the walls was a mo- nastery of Carmelites, foimded temp. Edw. *I. by Lord CUnton. The cliurch was very fine, and in it were biu-ied the principal inhaljitants of Sandwich. On the dissolution it was gi-anted to Arden of Faversham, towards whose cairn it perhaps con- tributed an additional stone, and at last was entirely destroyed. The principal ch. in Sandwich is St. Cleiitcnfs, the low Norm, tower of which, with an exterior arcade, is seen from the station. The nave and chancel are E. E. The tower is central, and has an interior arcade above the supporting arches. There are Miserere stalls in the chancel, said traditionally to have belonged to a brotherhood of St. George. The aisles, N. and S., are terminated by chantries ; in that N. is the font (temp. Hen.YII.), with arms of England and France, and some cin'i(jus grotesques. The roof — Tudor with gilt angels at the bosses— has been restored. The most conspicuous object in the ch. is the mayor s seat, with the royal anus above it. The pulpit is at the W. end. The Flemish residents were formerly allowed to have their ser- vices in this ch., which well deserves a visit. Urus aud other articles have l)e( n found in the cliurcliyard, pro- bably marking it as the site of a cemetery attaclied to the neighbour- ing Koman town of Kutupia). Ex- amples of Christian churches thus founded on or near the earlier hea- then cemeteries are not uncommon in Kent. The steeple ot St. Peter's Church fell in 1G61 and demolished the S. aisle, of which the ruins remain. The rest of the chancel has been hideously remodelled. There are many moruiments well liidden by pews, of which the most important is one in the N. aisle, for Thomas Ellis, merchant, and his wife, about 1392 ; — a great benefactor to the town, who founded a chantry in this ch. for liimself his wife, and 23 cluldren. A bell called " the brand gose " is rung here daily at 1 p.m. Nearly opposite St. Peter's is St. Thomas' Hospital, founded by Thomas Ellis in honour of his patron saint^ Becket. It maintains 12 persons, and has an ancient dining hall with an early Perp. mndow, worth a visit. In the corn-market is the Hospital of St. John, founded before 1280. Behind it was a building called the " Harbinge" in wliich travellers were entertained. The brothers of St. John used to beg in the churches,, and at the harbour in the herring season. The hospital has been entirely remodelled. Without the town, on the Deal road, is the liospital of St. Bartho- lomew, the great patron of lepers. Its age is unknown, but it is pro- bably of the 12th cent. An estate of ]iearly 300 acres adjoins this liospital, which supports 16 brethren and sisters. It was probably at first a lazar-house, but afterwards (hke Harbledown near Canterbury) re- ceived pilgrims and travellers. The knightly family of Sandwich were great benefactors to it; and in its chapel is the altar-tomb, with effigy, of Sir Henry Sandwich, probably a cenotaph, for the ground has beeu searched in vain for any deposit. This chapel is E. E., and interesthig. Farm-buildings are raised against its walls in a most unseemly fashion. Kent. Route 10. — Richhorough. 20i At the opiJosite end of the town, near the site of the Cauterbury gate, is the Grammar School, founded 1563 by Sir Roger Mauwood, whose tomb, in St. Stephen's cliureli, near Canter- bury, lias already been noticed (see Ete. 9). His father was a draper of Sandwich, " a goodly and pleasant gentleman." Sir Roger was born here in 1525. The rules for the govern- ment of the school are curiously minute. The books to be used are the " diallogs of Castillo," "thexer- cises of Apthomius," " Virgills Eglogs or some chaste poet," "TuUy, Cesar, and Livie." The seal exhibits a grave pei'sonage in a recess, with iiames for hair, siirrounded by bees, and young ideas in trunk hose. The building is Flemish in character, with crowstepped gables ; but is much de- cayed, and, to judge trout externals, has cause to fear the visitation of Sir Roger's ghost. It is no longer used for the grammar-school, which has been removed further into the town. Richard Knolles, who in his 'Hist. of tlie Turks' (first printed 1610) displayed in Johnson's opinion " all the excellences that narration can admit," was placed here by Sir Roger himself as the 3rd master, and wrote his liistoiy here. Some architectural fragments in the town deserve attention. " The wood-carving on a house in Strai>d Street maybe esjieeially pointed out ; and another ancient house in tlie same street, said to have been occupied by Queen Elizabeth when she visited this town in 1572, contains a room of that period, with an exti-aordinarily fine carved cliinniey-piece. In a house in Luclcshoot Street there are 22 i)anels in oak, witJi very spirited carvings of grotesque heads, supposed to be of tlie time of Henrv VHI." (H'V/;////.) Before or after visiting Rich- borough, which must be done from this place, the archaeologist should endeavour to see the very important collections of W. H. Itolfe, Esq., whose residence is in the town. Many of these have been figured in Mr. R. Smith's 'Antiquities of Rich- borough' and in the ' Collectanea Antiqua ;' but there is a deep hi- terest in examining the actual objects close to the spots from which they have been restored to light after their 1500 years' slumber. Among the principal relics are some fine Samian ware from Richborough and Reculver, some early glass of great rarity, and a crowd of Saxon weapons and ornaments from the cemeteries- (at Ash and elsewhere) of the first Saxon colonists. It is principally to ]Mr. Rolfe that we are indebted for the researches lately undertaken at Richborough, Osengall, and elsewhere in Kent, witii such very interesting- results. His collection (if it be not already gone) is destined to join that made liy tlie Rev. Bryan Faussett of H( i^pington, also from Kentisli ceme- teries, and which, having been re- jected by the British Museum, is now in the hands of Mr. Mayer of Liveii^ool. Together they will form the most important and instructive collection which exists of Roman- Britisli and Saxon antiquities. EichhoroKgh itself, the ancient Rutupio', and perhaps the most strikuig relic of old Rome existing in Britain, lies about 1 m. N. of Sandwich. All that lias been ascer- tained respecting it will be found in Mr. Roach Smith's excellent ' An- tiquities of Itichhorough, Jieculver. and Lymne.' (J. R. Smith, 1850.) Rutupias was the favourite Roman landing-place (sfatio tranquilla it is called by Ammian), in crossing from the opposite coast of Boulogne. (Bononia). Hence the whole dis- trict became known as the " Littns Rutupinum "—a word which to un- tra veiled Roman ears suggested the delicate "natives," ancestors of the Whitstable and Margate oysters of our own d;iy, whose birthplace was at once recognised by learned gas- tronomers, such as the Montanus of L 3 206 Route 10. — Richlorough. Sect. I. Juvenal—" Ciiccis ntita forcnt an Lucriiium ad saxuni, Rutiipiiiove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo dcprcndere raorsu." {Juv. S. iv. 139). The name first occurs in Lucan's riiarsalia (a.d. 39-05) -" vaga cum Tcthys Itutupinaqne littora fervent" — in allusion to the fierce storms which then, as now, swept along the Kentish coast, — and for the last tune in the Notitia (a.d. 400-450), where tlie Lcgio Secunda Augusta is said to have been removed here from Chester. Between these periods it is mentioned liy Ammianus Blar- cellinus, who sa3-s tliat Lupicinus landed here temp. Julian, to repel the Picts and Scf)ts, and that Theo- dosius entered Britain by the same route to expel the Saxons. Auso- nius three times refers to it, once as the bin-ial-place of one of liis uncles — " Contentum, tellus quem Eutupina tegit " — and gives the name of "Ku- tupine robber," " Eutupinus latro," to Maximus, whom the legions in Britain (a.d. 383) had invested witli the supreme command. In the Iti- neraries, and by the geographer of Eavenna, Eutupi;c is duly recorded. Until the northern barbarians began to Infest the " Saxon shore," Eutupi;c and Kent generally seem to liave re- mained in great cj,iiict and prosperity. After this period, when, on account of their incursions, the legions in Britain had been collect( cl in tlie stations along the great wall, and in the fortresses of the S. and E. coasts of Britain, the Eutupine coast must have been the scene of many im- portant events, of which tlie details have unfortunately been lost to us. The epitliet of Ausonius indicates how closely tlie career of Maximus had been connected with it ; and at a later period the fleet of Carausius, tlie "Archipirata" (a.d. 287-293), imist have been well acquainted with its harbour. Coins of both " usurpers" have been found at Eichborough ; and the (tamp gate on the reverse of those of Maximus no doubt alludes to the great fortified castra, such as Eich- borough, Eeculver, and Lymne, erected along the coast to repel the l)arbarians. EutupisB was held "by the famous second legion, whose " Capricorn " so often occui's at Ciiestcr and in Northumberland, and the "Yir spectabilis," the Count of the Saxon Shore, reckoned it undei- his " disposition," together with the other fortresses of liis fhstrict. There was a " Castellum " at Eu- tupiai very early, as coins found there prove ; but the last of the Romans who put the island into an eftectual state of defence was the great Stilicho ; and it has been sug- gested (Quarterly Eeview,yol. xcvii.) that the remains we now see may be indelited to him for some portion of their long enduring massiveness. Clavulian's lines Anil thus be read with interest on the spot. " Me quoque vicinis pereuntem gentibus, In- quit (i. e. Brit.) Munivit Slilicho, totam cumScotus lerricn IMovit, et iiii't sto t^pumavit rouiige Telhys. — lUius effectian ciiris ne tela timerem Scotica, ne rittum tremerem, neu litore toto Prospiccrtm dubiis venturum .^'axmia VLJltiS." Thus prepared to be called back uito the world of Eoman Britahi, we may find our way to Eichborough along the Canterlniiy road, from whicli we turn off by a path skirting tlie Stour, and marked by some wind- mills. Tlie walls are in view the whole way, and on the higliest point of the hili on the 1. was the ancient amphi- theatre. At the commencement of the clitf, the road divides, and " the pedestrian can either proceed by the side of the railway, between the clitf and the river, or cross the raihva}% and ascend the hill to the S. wall." The first is perhaps the most im- pressive approach, opening at once on the great N. wall, the best pre- served portion of tlie structure. This is aliout 4(50 ft. in length, 30 ft. high on the exterior in some places, and in others 20 ft. The masses of ruin Kext. Route 10. — Itichhorough. 207 passed in ascoiidiiig to it from tlie river are those of a return wall now quite overthrown, and of a tower and buttress, near the anple of the cliff. At the oppociite N.W. angle, are the remains of a circular tower ; and there were originally 2 square towers on this side of the castruni, nearly equidistant from the circular corner towers, and from a postern in the centre. (The general character of the square towers will perhaps bo best seen in the W. wall, where one remains in more entire preservation.) The great wall at the postern is 10 ft. 8 in. thick ; the entrance wallG ft. 4. In the W. wall the principal opening is the Decuman gate, where a com- plete stone pavement, long since re- moved, was laid oj^en towards the middle of last cent., by Boys, the liistorian of Sandwich : beyond it, S., are the remains of a square tower. These square towers, throughout the fortress, were " solid to the extent of nearly 8 ft. from the foundation, liollow in the centre, and united to the mahi wall again at the top. It is probable that they contained a room, with loopliolcs for watchers. The holes in the main wall, within these towers, seem to have served for the insertion of timber." (C. R. Smith.) At the S.W. comer of tlie W. wall was a circular tower, of whicli only the foundation remains ; the 8. wall has a square tower toward the centre. There was no wall toward the cliff, which itself served as a pro- tection. The external facing is most ))erfect in the N. wall, and is fonned of regular coui-ses of squared grit and Portland stone, bonded at irregular intervals by doul)le rows of large flat tdes made of well-tempered clay. These do not extcTid into the wall beyond the widtli of a single tile, or at most a couple. At the postern gate they are relieved at the angles b}' .short intermediate courses of red and yellow tiles. Internally, the facing was chiefly conqiosed of flints. It Jias been mucli destroyed ; but a tolerably good fragment rcmam.s near the N.W. corner. The great body of the wall consists of layera of Ijoulder.s, .sandstone, &c., arranged with much precision, and cemented with mortar formed of hmc, grit, sea- slulls, and pounded tiles. Within the area, not far from the N.E. corner, a ridge in the form of a cross will be observed, rising slightly above the ground. This is the mark of a superstructure which has en- tirely di.sappeared, and which was based on a solid rectangidar platform of masonry, underground, 144 ft. long, 104 ft. wide, and 5 ft. thick. Beneath this platfomi is an extensive sub- terranean building, an examination of which has been attempted, but hitherto without success. " Nothing at all analogous to it has been dis- covered at any of the Roman stations in this country, or as far as can be asccrtamed, on the continent.' It has been suggested that it was used as an arsenal for arms, or as a store- house for corn : but xnitil it has been opened, nothing can be determined with any certainty. The cross above may have Iteen the foundation of a sacellum or chapel. It was long- called " St. Augustine's Cross," pos- .sibly from some tradition of the re- ception of Augustine here bv King Ethell)ert. It must be carefully remembered that Kutujiiaj was not a large walled city like Duroverniun (Canterbury) or London, but oidy a strong frtmlier fortress. The ancient arrangement of buildings witliin the walls it is impossible to determine. Fragments of pillars ani cornices, in a fine white marble, and of mural painting, have been found ; and the whole ground withinaud around is still strewed with pieces of tiles and broken pottery. There were probably numerous villas without the walls ; the foundations of one of which were laid bare iii cutting the railway below the chff. For engravings and notices of the inon^ important discoveries the reader 208 Route 1 . — Ricliborough . — Ash . Sect. T, iuu8t be refeiTod to Siiiitlrs ' An- tiquities already noticed. The sjreater portion of articles there ligurcd are preserved in Mr. Eolfe's cabinet at Sandwich. It has been i-alculated that not less than 140,000 coins have been found at Kiclibo- rough at different periods. Of those described by Mr. Smith, the greater number belong to the 10 years (287-297) during which the island maintained its independence luidcr Carausius and Allectus, — when Eu- tupias was no doubt a place of great importance and much frequented. On the highest point of the hill, about 460 yards from the S.W. angle of the castrura, are the remains of a castrcnsian amphitheatre, now covered with earth, but laid com- pletely open by Mr. Eolfe in 1S49. It was walled, and formed an ellipse, the longer diameter measuring 200 ft., the shorter 1(3G. There were 3 entrances, N. S. fmd W. On the ruined wall of the W. entrance a skeleton was found, with a brass coui of Constantine imder the right hand. Standing here, where athletes and glathators once delighted tlie shouting soldiers, the imagina- tion, in sijite of the ploughs lying •quietly under the liollows of the broken walls, or of the wheat-field that closes up round them, may restore the fortress, see the glittering helmets and eagles of the legionaries sweep out from its gates, or look down upon the tall triremes at rest in the har- bour below. Ilegulbinm (Keculver), the sister castle, is M'ithin sight, and far over the sea are the hazy cliffs of Gessoriacum (Boulogne). The site is still, as Leland describes it, " won- derful fair," but must have been far more so when tlie sea swept up on one side toward Sandwich, and on the other toward lieculver ; thus leaving Eutupiaj at the point of the promontory, still indicated by its high ground and cliff. The Wailing Street, proceeding eastward IVcmi Cantcrbur)', touched the sea in the neiglibourhood of Eutupia) — probably on the Sandwich side of the fortress. Besides Eomau relics, ranging over the whole 400 years of their occupation, Saxon coins and personal ornaments, clasps and fibula, have been found at Eich- borough, indicating the continued occupation of the j^lace by the new conquerors. There was a chapel and hermitage witliin the walls in Le- land's time, now quite gone. This chapel, dedicated to St. Augustine, was perhaps a more direct memorial tlian the name of " St. Augustine's Cross,' of the reception of the Eomau missionaries here by Ethelbert after the meeting in the Isle of Thanet. From Eichborough they advanced to Canterbury along the line of the Watling Street. (See Stanley's H. M., p. 19.) Nearly opposite the Dcciunan gate of the castle is seen the spire oi Ash 67; mtc/?, which serves as a landmark. The eh. itself is E. E. and very fine. The tower is central. Some judicious restorations have lately been made here ; and there is a good E. window by Wille- ment. There are 2 altar-tombs and some brasses. The effigy of an un- known knight (temp. Edw. II.) on one of the altar-tombs is of great interest, since it affords an example of the gradual change from mail to plate-armour. Instead of a mail hauberk, several successive plates of steel are riveted on a tunic of cloth which reaches nearly to the knees. The gauntlets are formed in the same way ; and between them and the elbows appear tlie sleeves of the leather hauketon. The short surcoat is also an early example. Meyrick assigns the date lo20 to this e'ffigy. Here, at Ash, was one of the earliest Saxon settlements. At Giltou in this parish a Saxon burial-ground was long since discovered, from which personal ornaments, weapons, and other relics of the highest in- terest, have been, and are still, disinterred. Many of these are in Mr. Eolfe's cabinet. They are all Kent, Route 10. — Wingliam. — Deal. 209 of the pagan Saxon period, indicat- ing considerable artistic skill, and some imitation of Eome. Douglas's 'Nenia Britannica " (1793) first drew attention to tliis spot. [About 2 m. S. of Asli, Wodensbo- rovgh, on a height " throwing down various small streams N. and S. into the Stourandthe sea " (Keinhle), was probably selected for tliis reason as a sacred Saxon site. There is here a re- markable earthen mound, adjoining the ch. ; and Saxon sepulchral re- mains have been fomitl in the neigh- boxu-hood. Eastrij (3 m. from Sandwich) has a large E. E. ch. with some Norm, portions. It belonged to Ch. Ch., Canterbury, and Becket lay con- cealed here for some days before his flight. The mmxler of the Saxon princes, buried under King Egbert's throne (see Minster, Ete. G), is placed here by Matthew of Westminster, in- tlicating at least the traditional im- portance of Eastry. At Wuigham (2 m. from Ash) is a large Dec. and Perp. ch. in a sad state of dirt and wliitewash. Abp. Peckham founded here a college for a provost and 6 canons ; and some remains of the collegiate buildings may be traced opposite the church- yard in " Canon Eow,' where the village inn, mth a remarkable gable and bargeboard, apparently formed part of them. The S. chancel is filled Avith an elaborate moniiment for the Oxenden family of Dcane, a singular structure, consisting of a pyramid with despairing cherubs at the base, whose hideous faces and very large tears are worth notice. In the ch. (1360) Ehza- beth, daughter of the Marquis of Juhers, and widow of John Plau- tagenet, was manied to Sir Eustace Dabrieschescourt. The lady had taken the veil at Waverley, and for this breach of her vows was con- demned daily to repeat the 7 peni- tential psalms and the 15 gra duals, once even' vear to visit the shrine of St. Thomas at Canterbury, and once every week to wear no "camisia," and to eat nothing but bread and f» mess of pottage. This penance she endured 51 years. Her story was made the subject of an indifferent paper in ' The World,' by Horace Walpole.] On the bank of the Stour, oppo- site Eichborough, a farndiouse indi- cates the site oi' Stonar (i^erliaps the Lapis Tituli of Nennius). The town was destroyed by the French in 1385. In the marshes through which the railroad passes after leaving Minster are patches of a large reed grass- used for thatching and sometimes for fences. The effect of the long pointed leaf in masses, with its grace- ful tassel of seed, is very beautiful, and the breeze sweeps through these Midas plots with a most musical "susun-us." 5 m. from Sandwich is Deal (Pop. 1000—Iiuis: Eoyal Hotel, Fomitam), at which point the rail ceases. Deal rose into importance as a harbour as Sandwich declined ; there is conse- quently nothing of any great anti- quity in the lower town, adjoinmg the pier, which is of much later date than Upper Deal, on the hill above, the original village. The church of Uj^per Deal has some Norm, frag- ments. That of Lower Deal is a Queen Anne stracture of the most barbaric character. St. Antlrew's Church, in West Street, was com- pleted in 1850. The " General Baptists' Chapel " is so far a curi- osity that it is said to have been built by Samuel Tavernor, govenior of Deal Castle throughout the period of the Commonwealth. By Charles II. he was employed to carry out the laws against dissenters, but was him- self converted, and baptized in the Delf at San<lwicli, 1G63. The historical memorials of Deal (passing by Caesar's landing for the present) are scanty. Perkiu Warbeck landed here in 1495, and was de- feated bv the men of Sandwich : in 210 Route 10.— Deal Castle. Sect. I. 1540 Anne of Clfves was received in the castle after her voyage ; and it was at Deal tliat Queen Adelaide first set her foot on British ground. In Pennant's time Deal was entirely supported by the sliipping in the Downs, and " every shop was filled with punch - bowls and drinking- glasses." Its long narrow streets are now somewhat better supplied, and, together with the adjoining village of Walmer, it has iiumerous smnmer visitors. Deal Castle, like the castles of Sandown and Walmer, was one of the " platforms and blockhouses " built along tlie coast by Henry VIII. in 1539, when it seemed pro- bable that England would have to .stand singlehandcd against a com- bination of tlio great continental powers. Tlie king himself, at much personal inconvenience, rode along the coast to hasten their completion. They are all alike, and consist of a central keep or circular tower, sur- rounded by 4 roimd bastions. Both at Deal and at Walmer there are nmuerous modern additions. The captain of Deal Castle is a])pointed by the Lord Warden. Scuidoicn Castle aboTit -^ m. N. of Deal has a higher interest. Here "after 11 months' harsh and strict imprison- ment " (only a part of which, how- ever, was passed at Sandown), "with- out crime or accusation," died Colonel Hutchinson, Sept. 11, 1GG4. It is still, as then, a "lamentable old iiiined place, not weather-proof, unwholesome and damp," the sea in front, and the dreary marsh land toward Sandwich stretcliing away behind it. " Wien no other recreations were left him he di- verted himself with sorting and .shadowing cockle-shells, which Ids ■wife and daughter gathered for him, with as much delight as he used to take in the nchest agates and onyxes he could compass, A\-ith the most artificinl engravings." (3/e- jjioirs by his Wife.) We may recall there at night and liis grave figure, sucli as it appears in the well-known portrait, with long unpuritanical liair falling over liis shoulders, slowly pacing the beach, where at last he obtained leave to walk, and intenningling his discourse " of the public con- cernments" with sundry prophe- cies of the downfall of the Stuarts, and confusion of the " serpentine seed " of the Cavaliers. " The place had killed him," certified the doc- tors. The conveyance in which the colonel was brought to Sandown, his chair, and a so-called portrait, are still shown in the castle. Mrs. Hutchinson was not adniitttd permanently to the castle, but had to remain in "that cut-throat town of Deal " at an excessive chai'ge, walking back with liorriide toil niconvenience." With the black shadow thus cast on Deal nuist be contrasted the reputation conferred on the place by IMrs. Elizalieth Carter, the translatress of Epictetu.s, whose really jarofomid Greek learning excited the admira- tion of Dr. Johnson, — none the less because " she could make a pudding as well as translate Epictetus, and work a handkerchief as well as com- pose a poem." She was l)orn (1717) and lived here, passijig throughout all the neighbouring villages for a "cmming gentlewoman," who rivalled Francis Moore in her powers of fore- telling future events. In her house (now judled down) was a portrait of the learned lady " in the costume ap- jiropriated to Minerva." {Metnoirs by llev. T. Pennington.) Between the town of Deal and the castle are the naval yard, of no great importance, the custom-house, watch-house, and the ijilot-house. Beyond the castle commences the village of Walmer, which, like Deal, has its upper and lower towais. I^ovver Walmer lies along the beach ; and at the S. end has some very l)leasant houses. As a quiet bathing l)lace, it is much preferable to the Kent. lioide 10. — IVabner. — Kingsdoim. 211 larger towns on the coast (there is no good hotel, however, nearer than Deal). The naval hospital, on the rt. after passing Deal Castle, has accommodation for 250 patients. The barracks, beyond, were bnilt in 1795, when the coast seemed to demand some more etfective pro- tection than Henry YIII.s "worm- eaten " castles. They are arranged for 1100 infantry and a troop of horse. St. Saviour's Chapel was completed in 1849. Walmer Castle, to which the visitor's attention is first turned, the official resi- dence of the great duke as Lord Warden, and the spot where (Sept. 14, 1852) "tanti viri mortalitas magis (piam vita iinita est, ' lies about 5 m. l)eyond St. Saviour's. The interior is only shown M'lien the castle is un- occupied. "Walmer, like Deal and Sandown, is one of Henry VIII. "s block- liouses, but has been greatly altered, although the original plan is still traceable. It was early assigned to the Lord Wardens of theCinque Ports ;is an oflicial residence ; and the Duke of Wellington, after succeeding Lord Liverpool as warden in 1829, re- gularly spent the autumn mouths here. The window of the end turret, farthest from Deal, is that of the room in which he died. Tlie sea views from the windows of tlie prin- cipal apartments, and from the ])Iat- ibrm in front, are veiy tine. The moat has been converted into a kitchen garden ; and at .the back .stretches up a long plantation of beeches and sycamores, made by Mr. Pitt, and showing evident signs of battles with the sea winds. They protect, however, some very fine evergreens, including a laurestinus of remarkable size,and laurels worthy of the garden of a hero. From tlie midst of the turf rise two slioots from Napoleon's weeping willow at St. Helena, planted liy the Dulce hinr- Hclf, and carefully watchi'd ))y Jiini. "Within the castle (the furniture of which has been altered since the Duke's deatli) a small room is shown iu which William Pitt, then Lord Warden, is said to have, held frequent conferences witli Lord Nelson, whilst the fleet lay in the Downs. A footpath along the beach, gay with the yellow flowers of the horned poppy, leads to Kingsdown, a decayed "member" of the Cinque Port of Dover, picturesquely situated under the clitls, wliich recommence here. St. John's Chapel, above it, was com- pleted in 1850. Its erection and en- dowment are entirely due to William Curling, Esq., whose residence i.s opposite. Some indistinct traces of an intrenchment in the valley here are said by Darrell to have been formerly called " Roman Codde," wliieh he is pleased to interpret " Eomanorum fortitude." It is pos- sible that Mr. Sorrow's Romanye friends may have known more of the matter. Small pieces of amber are found on the beach here, and on that of tlie Isle of Thanet, after a gale. 1 The scene from Deal and Walmer beach — and yet more so where the chtfs recommence at Ivingsdown — is always grand and impressive. The Downs, " the safest and most commocUous roadstead in the world," lie in front, generally crowded with merchantmen, and not often without some specimen of those " brave navies " " From floating cannons' thuiuleving throatcs that all the world defye." Beyond is seen the fringe of breakers along the perilous Goodwins. ^. are the cliti's of Tlianet, and Peg- well Bay with its memories of Augus- tine and the Saxons ; and opi)osite stretches away the French coast, from the " Noirmottes " above Calais to the heights beyond Boulogne — the old country of the Morini — with its chalk cliffs of Blanez and Grisnez ; the sight of which brings crowding back on the mind all the eventful story from the day when the oars of the Roman galleys first flashed iu 212 Ro-xte 10. — The Doions. — The Goodwins. Sect. I. the smisliine across the narrow strait, to that (August, 1850) on whieli the cable of the electric telegraph attached the ".fines terrarum " of the Britons to the great world opposite. The coast of the Pas de Calais has undergone at least as much cliange as that of Kent ; but the Portus Iccius, from which Caesar sailed, cer- tainly lay within sight opposite, and probably .stretched up under the Noirmottes as far as St. Omer. Stanthug on the beach at Walmer, it is not a little interesting to have at once before us the points both of departure and of arrival ; for it was in all probability on this low coast, between Kingsdown and Thanet, that Cresar's first landing was made — the first great landmark in the history of Britain, which was thus Itronght within the pale of the Roman world. Professor Airey {Archxologia, xxxv.) has brought for- ward some interesting arguments for fixing the landing at Pevensey. Tlie shore near Folkestone, and the coast of Romney Marsh, have also been suggested. But the weight of evi- flence stiU seems in favour of Deal, which, although the coast has much altered, must always have been " in piano et aperto littore." The Bourns, l)etween the break- water of the Goodwins and the shore — the largest natural harboirr of re- fuge existing — are 8 m. in length and 6 wide, containing about 20 m. of good anchorage. No doubt they are " a down bed to repose in," as Defoe suggests ; biit the name is derived from the dunes or sand-heaps of the Goodwins and the shore. They are well protected from PI W. and N., but are unsafe under a high S. wind ; and a " Deal gale," such as howled along the Rutupine shores in Lucan's time, generally sends ashore manj' of the lesser craft. The Downs vary in depth from 4 to 12 fathoms. In many parts are overfalls and sands — as tlic Brake, the Quern, &c. — dry wholly or parlially at low water. The famous Goodwins — " a very dangerous flat and fatal, where the carcases of many a tall ship lie buried" {Merck, of Venice') — extend- ing about 9 m. between the 2 fore- lands, run nearly parallel with the coast. They consist of 2 j^^rts, divided in tlie middle by 4 narrow channels, about 2 fathoms deep ; one of which, called " the Swash," is navigable in fine weather. E. of the N. Goodwin is a bank of chalk — a more substantial fragment of Earl Godwin's Lomea than the sands themselves : — " AVhere oft by mariners are shown (Unless the men of Kent are liars) Earl Godwin's castles overflown. And palace roofs, and steeple spires."' Whatever may have been their ori- gin, they are probably older than either Earl Godwin or Tenterden steeple. There is no early notice of any island in this jjlace, though it is not impossible tliat more than one change may have taken place here during the many inundations wliicli liave swept over this, and the oppo- site Flemish, coasts. Sir C. Lyell .suggests that the last remains of an island, consisting, like Sheppey, of clay, may have been carried away by the great flood of 1099, recorded by the Saxon Chronicle. {Principles of Geology, i. 409.) The sands are completely covered at high water. At low tiiey may be walked upon with safety, except in certain ominous, lake-like places, the especial pro- perty of the water-nixes. Seamen assert that if a sliip of the largest size were to strike on the Goodwins she would be completely swallowed up liy tlie fj[uicksands in a few days. The bank consists in reality of 15 ft. of sand, resting on blue clay — a fact which seems to prove that it is a remnant of land and not a mere acciunulation of sea- sand. {Lyell.) A lighthouse and 2 beacons on the Goodwins have been successive!}' erected and destroyed since 1841. Kent, Route 10. — Great Mongeham. — Korthhourne. 2V6 Two floating lights now mark the N. and S. heads of the sands, and another is fixed at the Gull stream — the main passage into the Nortli Sea. The Calais liglit and tlie re- volving light at Boulogne are also visible from the beach, as are those of the North and South Forelands. The most memorable case of ship- wreck on tlie Goodwins took place dm-ing the great storm of Nov., 1703, which lasted 14 days ; during its greatest -vnoleuce (the night of the 26th) 13 men-of-war were lost on the sands, and nearly the whole of their crews perished. Many East Indiamen have been wrecked on them ; but the number of vessels lost or damaged here bears no proportion to those which pass in safety ; and " the improvements in navigation, the use of chain-cables, and the applica- tion of steam-power, have rendered these sands much less formidable than formerly." Rockets thrown up from the lightboats at the sands are the signals tliat some vessel lias struck on them ; and such calls for help are instantly responded to by the boat- men of the coast, who, loimgers on ordinary occasions, start into activity at tlie approach of a storm. Tlic number of lives annually saved by these boats, " admirably "handled by their hardy crews," is very great. It is, indeed, tiiie that they look upon the wreck itself as their own pro- perty ; but there are few among them who might not appropriate the epitaph of George Pliilpott in Deal Church : — " Full many lives he saved with his un- daunted crew. He put his trust in Providence, and cared not how it blew." All along the coast these boatmen are known by the name of liovellers ; 110 doubt a corruption of hobelers, tlie ancient name of tlie light-armed English cavalry, from the hohhij or small horse ridden by them. Thus the light boats of the Deal seamen were their hobbies. The shore life of the liovellers is scarcely without reproach. In fine weatlier" tliey re- main altogether idle and inactive ; and are only roused to exertion by the occurrence of wliat the old Coruishmen used to call a " provi- dential " wreck. [The country landward of Deal is comparatively liare and unpic- turesque ; yet it is interesting as ha\-ing been (together with Thanet) the first portion of Brittun colonised by the invading Saxons, of whose early settlements it still contains nmuerous traces. Besides liurial- groimds of the heathen period (as Ash, Osengall, &c.), some of the churches are remarkably placed witliin ancient entrenchments (Wal- mer, Coldred, &c.), and otliers have close adjoining them lofty earthen moinids (Wodne.sborough, Coldred), possibly marking the sites of early mark or hundred courts. Of the churches themselves, the most interesting in tlie neighbour- hood of Deal are Great Mongeham and Northbourne. Great Mongeham^ 2 m. from Deal, is mainly E. E., with a later tower, comniantling a wide view over the countiy. This ch. has lately been restored by Butter- field. The chancel sedilia are worth notice. Great ^Mongeham (Monk-ham) be- longed to St. Augustine's, Canter- bury. Some remains of brick and flint walls near the W. door of the ch. indicate the site of an ancient mansion belonging to the family of Craj-tbrd, whose monuments still re- main in the ch. 1 m. beyond Great Mongeham is Norlhhourne, wliich the archaeologist will find well worth a visit. The " burn " from which it derives its name falls into the Stour at Sand- wich. Tlie manor was granted by Eadbald (U18) to St. Augustine's, by which monastery the ch. was of course erected. This (detlicated to St. Augustine) is E. E. of very in- teresting character, with a tower at nu Route 10. — Northhoarne. — Upper Walmer. Sect. L tlie intersection of nave and chancel. At the E. end of chancel are 3 lights, one above another, the nj)per- most in the roof, and circular. AVithin, the lowest light is placed within a recessed arch, having pilas- ters at the angles. Above this arch is the second light. The piscina is triangular-headed. The tower arches are circular — except that opening to the nave, which is pointed, with a zigzag moulding— and have a broad reversed trefoil on the capitals of the lower ])ilasters. The windows are trefoil-headed within, and broadly .splayed; flush without. The door of the S. porch, with t,ympanum and zigzag moulding, has the mason's jnark on one of the stones. In the S. transept (which is later and has a curious S. window) is the tomb of Sir Edwin Sandys and his wife, second son of the Abp. of York (1G29). Both are recumbent cftigies in white marble, and very good. Northbourne Court lies below the ch. It was at one time among the greatest ornaments of this part of Kent, and its gardens, carefully tended by the monks, " rose into divers terraces, which had been laid up with great art and expense for the cultivation of fruits and vege- tables." The bite is said to have been tliat of a palace of King Eadbald ; and in Ijcland's time, " yn breking a side of walle yn the halle, were found ii children's bones." Northbourne Coiut was for some time in the hands of the Sandys fa- mily. It is now a large farm : the barns and outlnnldings may possibly repay examination. Detslumcjer Church, 6 m. from Deal, is Norman, and has been admirably restored by Mr. Salvin. In the ncighboiuhood of Deal are Cottivcjton (G. Hooper, Esq.) and Beishanger Farlc (Sir Walter James, Bart.)] Tlie railway ceases at Deal, but coaches and omni})uses start several times a-day for Dover, passing through Walmer. This road is, however, bare, and oft'ers few points of interest. The vmUc to Dover along the cliffs, by the South Foreland, is about 10 m., and magnificent. On the beach, beyond Kingsdown, stations for rifle prac- tice and " judging of distance " have been fixed for the use of the Walmer barracks. It is possible to walk to Dover by the beach, but in this case the tides must be carefvdly noted. The white, flint-bedded cliiis aflord no resting - places, like " Bessie's apron ;" and whoever may flnd him- self beneath them in Sir Arthur Wardour's position will have but a slender chance of escape. The loose shingle, moreover, under the Fore- land, atfords by no means a pleasant patli. The pedestrian will do best to walk by the cliff's to St. Marga- ret's, see the very interesting Norm, church there, and then descend to the beach from the preventive sta- tion at Cornhill, on the other side of the S. Foreland. From this point a footpath continues to Dover. The main road from Deal passes through the village of Upper Walmer, 2 m. The chancel arch and S. door of the ch. are Norman, and richly decorated. There is no memorial of "El (ilran Lor," but the pew which he used to occupy almost every Sim- day dining his residence at AValmer. This is the large seat immediately in front of the pulpit. The wonderful square addition to the ch. was made in 182(3. The churchyard is enclo.sed by a deep ancient fosse. Near it are some relics of a mansion belong- ing to the ancient family of Criol. About half-way down Castle-street, in the village, a house is pointed out which was tenanted by the Duke when Sir Arthur Weliesley : it is known as " The Duke's House." The various intrenchments in the neighbourhood (interesting in con- nexion with Cjesar's landing),uoticed by Hasted, are now difficult of dis- covery, in consequence of increased cultivation. " A deep single fosse IvE}TT. Route 10. — Sutton. — St. Margarets at Cliff. 215 upon a rising ground " is mentioned near Walmer Churcli, and there are said to be marks of intrenchment at Hawkshill close, near the castle, to the S. There are others N. of Eip- ple Church, and at Dane Pitts, on a farm now called Winkland Oaks. Tills last is readily found, although much changed since it was figured by Hasted. It is too small for a fortification of any sort, and was probably a " bower " or " Troy- town," in wliich games took place on certain occasions. (See Ete. 8 ; Julaber's Grave, Chilham.) From the high ground above Walmer a fine view is olitained northward, — Sandwich, with Kich- borough beyond it ; Thanet, and Ilamsgate stretching along its cliffs ; tlie Downs on one side, and on the other a wide sweep of undulating chalk country, fidl of Saxon me- morials. R/pple church (belonging to St. Augustine's), to which a footpath leads across the open fields, has some Norni. portions. The W. window is circular with pilasters. At Sutton, 1 m. further S., is a small Norm. ch. of some interest. It is dedicated to SS. Peter and Paul, and has nave and chancel, with circular apse. The windows are circular-headed, varjing in size, with zigzag ornaments rudely scratched above them. The S. door has an enriched tympanum. The N. door (now closed) is immediately op- posite, as at Eipple and Nortlibourne. The wall of the W. end is said to have been injured by an earthquake, April G, 1 680. It has been rebuilt, but still shows the circular window. All the rest of the ch. remains unaltered. The manor belonged to the familv of (Jriol. 3 m. from Deal is the village of Rlngwouhi. Tlie church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, perhaps served as a landmark. It stands on high ground, commanding fine views of the Downs. 'I'ho shell is E. PI, but much altera- tion has taken place. The raised ground S. of ch. may perhaps mark an intrenchment like that at Walmer. At Ozneij, 1 m., are some fragments of a desecrated chapel. Oxneij Court (E. Eoffey, Esq.) adjoins. Some dis- tance off the road, W., are the two Langdons. The ch. of East Ijangdou has a late Norm, turret for 2 bells. The pidpit-cloth is made from an ancient vestment of crimson velvet, embroidered with the words " Jesu Maria," and other figures. " It weU deserves to be copied." (Hussey.) At West Langdon was a Benedictine abbey, founded 1192, by Will, de Aubeville. Both this and the ch. have disappeared, a few ivy-covered walls of the latter alone remaining. Here Leyton, Cromwell's commis- sioner (Oct., 15;!5), after gaining entrance with much difficulty, took captive the abbot's "tender damoi- .sel,'' lier apparel being found in the abbot's coffer (see his graphic letter in Fronde's Hist. vol. i.). A road at the head of Oxney Hill, 1., leads to St. Margaret's at Cliff, where the Norm. ch. must on no account be left unvifeited. The nave of 4 bays has circular piers, except one, wliich is clustered. The bases are best seen at the W. end, but are buried in whitewash. A much en- riched moulcUng surrounds the arches. The capitals of the piers have various Norm, ornaments. At the angles, and at the centre of each arch, are heads, and there is a shigidar mask in the centre of the moulding between tlie nave arches and the clerestoiy. The aisles do not extend beyond the nave. 'I'he small and deeply splayed side-windows have nearly all been altered : in that at the E. end of the S. aisle is a bracket for a figure, pro- Ijably above an altar. The circular chancel arch is unusually lofty, reaching to the toja of the clerestory windows. The chancel, of great length, has at the E. end 3 windows below, half blocked by a carved Corinthian screen, and one (closed) above. The rest of the chancel 21(3 Route 10. — St. Margaret's. — Gaston. Sect. L windows are circular-headed. Tlie tower arch is pointed. The exterior wall of tlie nave, rising above tlie aisles, is surrounded by a rich arcade, which is pierced at intervals for the clerestory windows. There is a low side window (circular-headed), but now blocked up, on S. side of chancel. Some whitewash has been removed, and more might be got rid of with great advantage. The church is pewed in orthodox style, and is altogether in a sad state. The manor has always belonged to the archbishops of Canterbury, by one of whom (Anselm?) the ch. must have been erected. In this, as in most otlicr Kentish villages, the stocks appear in the churchyaid, and are reverenced as a venerable institution, — though their usual state of chlapidation would reassure Dr. Eicabocca. Beyond the church, which lifts itself proudly aT)ove the little village, a " gate ' opens to the sea. The cliffs unfold like an ampliitheatre ; and down their broken sides a road winds to St. IMargaret's bay, whose voices come floating inland with a solemn music — " Kt geniitum inge-.item pelagi, piilsataque sa.xa -\iiUimus longe, fractasque ad littora voces." The guillemots which breed in the cliffs here are said by Buffon to be much sought after by the fishermen of Picard}-, — as baits for lobsters and other fish, according to Pennant. The finest flavoured lobsters in England, " small, and turning of a remark- ably deep red colour," are found in St. IMargaret's bay. Gastronomy, " which owes eveiything to the Church,"' is perhaps indebted for their discovery to Abp. Morton, by whom a small pier was constriicted below the cliffs, " for the defence of the fishing craft." From St. ]Margaret's, tlie 2 light- houses on the S. Foreland may be visited. This is the nearest point to the French coast, the " Pas " being somewliat shorter from here to the cliff of Grisnez tlian from Dover to Calais. The light at Dunkirk is here visible, besides those of Calais and Boulogne. The arrangements of the S. Foreland lighthouses correspond in all particulars with those of the N. Foreland. (See Ete. 6.). The view from the cliffs — always mag- nificent — is sometimes rendered more S(j than usual from the passing of whole fleets of merchantmen— 200 or 300 in number— outward bomid, after havuig been detained by con- trary wind in the Downs. Gusfon (rt. of the high road) has a Nonn. ch., worth a visit. The country from this point is open and wind-swept. The name of " The Lone Tree," given to a sycamore, wliich derives importance from its isolation, like a remote country squire, indicates its character. "This tree is the subject of a ratlier romantic legend. In the days of the Commonwealtli, they tell us, two sokUers of the garrison of Dover Castle were jealous of each other on account of a woman, and, chancing to walk thus far together, one suddenly slew the other with a thick staff" wliicli he had in his hand. Horror-stricken at the crime which he had conmiitted, the murderer threw the weapon from him violently and hastened from the spot ; but the start' falling in such a manner as to stick upriglit in the ground, imme- diately took root, and grew into the solitary tree which still remains as a perpetual testimony of tliis san- guinary deed." (TlV/f/Zi^—' Wander- ings of an Antiquary.) The dark towers of Dover Castle at last rise up on the 1., and one of the most striking views in Kent opens as we descend the steep liill into the town. The valley which stretches up rt. from Charlton is called "The Knights' Bottom ' — and is said to have been the favoiu-ite spot for the lists and joustings of tlie Castle gar- rison. (For Dover, see Ete. 7.) IvEXT. Route 11. — Canterhury to Dover 217 ROUTE 11. CANTERBURY TO DOVER. -The high road from Canterbury to Dover follows tlirougliout nmch of its course the line of tiie Watliug Street, wliicli, E. of Canterbury, seems to have brauehed in two divi- sions to Kichborough (Tvutuijije) on one hand, and to Dover (Dubrfe) on the other. In King John's charter to St. Eadegunds Abbey this Dover branch is called " Alba Via," the "White Way." Tlie country is not so wooded as among tlie hills of the Blean W. of Canterbury ; and in some parts has much in common with the bare, open landscape which used to delight the traveller by diligence S. of Calais. The high ridge of Bar- ham Downs, and tlie valley of the Doiu' beyoiid tiiem, are the principal features. [Heppimjton, in the parish of Nack- ington, 2 m. from Canterbury, and 1 m. 1. of the road, was the residence of the Eev. Bryan Faussett, who (toward the close of the last cen- tury) was the lirst to examine the graves of tlie earliest .Saxon settlers in thi.s part of Kent. His very in- teresting museum, probably the most important collection of Saxon relics which exists, is nut where it should 1)0, in the National Museum, but in the possession of H. Meyer, Esq., of Liverpool .3 Bridge, 3 m., lies picturesquely in the valley of the Little Stour, the "bourn " or river wluch gives its name to the many neigliboin- ing hourncs (Bishopsbovu'ne, Beki'S- bourne, &c.). The Watling Street crossed the stream at Bridge, the manor and cli. of which beh)nged to the Abbey of St. Augustine. The cliiirclt, dedicated to St. Peter, is Norm, and E. E., the latter predomi- nating. On the N. side of the chancel is a remarkable monument, a recum- bent figure in a recess, in a long robe witli loose sleeves furred at the wrists. On the 1. breast is a small quatrefoil badge or clasp ; the hair is long and straight. It is possibly the etfigy of some ofiicer of the abbey, wlio had the management of its laud at Bridge. Above, in tlie head of an arch, are some curious carvings in rehef, the subjects of which are, — the Deity with angels, the Temptation, the Expulsion, and Cain and Abel. Remark the human- headed serpent on the tree. The cos- tume is about the time of Richard II. On the opposite wall (E. side of S. window) is a niche for a lamp or figure. There is also a memorial of the Baron de Montesquieu, grandson of the famous President, who died here in 1823. Between 1630 and 1640 Cornelius Jansen the artist lived much at Bridge, " and drew many portraits for gentlemen in the neighbourhood. One of his best works was the i)or- trait of a Lady Bowyer, of the family of Aucher, called for her ex- quisite beauty ' The Star in the East.' " ( Walpole.) This i^icture is now at St. Alban's Court (see post). [Leaving the high road, and fol- lowing the stream on the 1., we reach (5 m.) Patrixhourne, a Norm, eh. well deserving a visit. At theE. end are 3 circidar-headed windows, with a fine rose or Catherine wheel, like tliat of Barfreston, above. Over the S. door of the chancel is a figure in a sealed hauberk, perha])s representing St. Michael. Tlie S. 218 Houte 11. — Beheshourne. — Lee Priory. Sect. I. door of tlie nave, looking out from a 1 mass of ivy wliich clusters all over the tower, is very rich. In the 1 tjnnpanuna is a figure of the Saviour, ; with a triply rayed nimbus ; beneath liis feet are dragons and a dog. The • Caen stone mouldings arc as sharp as if just finished. A sort of leaf or quatrefiiil ornament indicates that this door was not completed until tlie style was on the point of changing. At the end of the 12th cent, the eh. belonged to the Priory of Beaulieu (near Kouen) m Normandy, by wliich house it was perhaps built. Tlie colmuns and arches within are heavy Norm. TJiere are some modern stained windows, and otliers filled with Flemisli glass of the IGth cent. The interi(3r of the ch. has been re- stored (1857) by Mr. Scott. The Vicarage beyond has the Conyngham crest over tlie door, in- dicating the patronage of that family. The house of Bifrons (Marchioness of Conyngliain) ad- joins. In the drawing-room is a fine full length of George IV. by Laio- rence. Along the front of the house a Mr. Taylor, who rebuilt it in 1770, placed this inscri])tion "in commen- dation of his wife :" " Diruta aidificat uxor bona, sedificata dirnit mala." The road continues along tlie side of the stream, which has some large willows on its banks, to Btkesbourae (■J m.). On the 1. are the remains of the Archhishop's Palace, the relics of wliich however arc very scanty. In tlic outer wall of the gate-house is a stone with Cranmcr's initials — " T. C. 1552 : Nosce Teipsuin et Deum." A few Perp. windows re- main. In the garden remark an enormous walnut, with twisted and gnarled boughs, covered with ivy. Cranmcr (who liad acquired tlie pro- perty by an exchange with the monks of Ch. Cii. Canterbury) re- tired to this palace on the accession of Queen Mary ; and hid some paper.s (said to have been his will) beliind the wainscot of the gal- leiy, where they were found when the rebels pulled down the palace, as some one wlio saw them told Batteley. From tliis place Cranmer removed to Ford (see Rte. 9), whence he was committed to the Tower. Archbishop Parker resided here frequently, as appears from his correspondence. The cliurcli stands rt. on a hillock, and is E. E. with some Norm, portions. The E. win- dows are double lancets, instead of triple as usual. (This arrange- ment also occurs at Upper Hardres and at Thanington.) In the nave is the tombstone of Nicholas Batteley tlie antiquar\', vicar of Bekesbourne, d. 1704. A field patli still along the Stour valley, wiiicli continues pleasantly wooded, leiids to the ruined chapel of Well. It is E. E. and picturesque. Near this is tlte Hoicletts-(G. Gipps, Esq.). In the grounds are some fine old cedars. Lee Friory, be3'ond (Sir T. Brydges, Bart.), will be visited with some iiiti-Tcst by the literaiy tourist. Horace Walpole's " daughter of Strawberry, fairer than Strawljerry liersclf," is certainly more substan- tial than her distinguished parent^ but is still fantastic enough. Tlie Inmse was entirely remodelled by Wyatt towards the close of the last cent., under the auspices of its then owner, Thomas Barrett, Esq. The great oriel window is merely a piece of external elFeet. The Library (also an " eflfect ") is fitted as a chapel with a small altar in a recess. Througli- out, the house exhibits a strange mixture of churchwarden's Gothic witli the white paint and gilding fashionable at the time of its recon- struction. Of the 2^>ctiires, two arc wortli special notice— Charles I., by J)o})»(in (?), resting his hand on a crystal globe (in the dining-room) ; and an early Flemish picture in wliicli a deacon is represented kneeling between two bishops (now in a small upstairs sitting-room). The park surrounding the house has Kent. Route 1 1 . — Litthlouviie. — Lishopshourne. 219 mucli broken gi-ound, with some good scenery. At the death of Mr. Barrett in 1803, Lee Priory passed by will to the eldest son of Sir Egerton Brydges, tlien a minor. Sir Egerton himself afterwards resided here, and in 1813 estabhshed tlic Lee Priory Press, the rei^rints iVora which are well known to all book collectors. Beyond Lee Park is Littlebourne, the last of tlie " bourne " group in this direction. The eh. is E. E. Tlie lesser Stour, which now joins tlie larger river near Sarre, was jerhaps formerly na\igable for small craft as high as Bekesbourne : the parish at all events became a member of the Hastings Cinque Port, and Avas com- lielled to contribute its single shiji when required. Sujiposing that Ccc- sar's second landing can be fixed with certainty at Deal, tlie river behind which he found the Britons posted, after his 12 hours' night march, must have been the Lesser Stour, and the skirmish in which Laberius Durus was killed may have taken place somewhere about Bekesbourne. {De B. G. V. 8-11). Returning to Bridge, we diverge again rt. of the main road in order to visit Bisliopsljourne (1 m.). It is stiU possible to drive by the side of the stream through Bourne Park (M. BeU, Esq.). On the higher ground some Saxon barrows were opened in 1814. Through the trees, and beyond the green quiet mea- dows, looks out the tower of Bishops- bourne, with its memories of Hooker, to whom the hving was given bv Abp. Whitgift in 1595. " He had not been tliere 12 months," says Walton, " liefore his books, and the innocency and sanctitj" of his life, became so remarkable, that many turned out of the road ; and others, scholars especially, went purposely to see the man." Bisliopsbourne still attracts many pilgrims. The Rectory, which has been greatly modernised, con- tains a dining-room, the ceiling of which is crossed and rccrossed with beams and rafters of black oalv, which are probably older tiuiu Hooker's time. A small study beyond, in which he may have conferred with •Saravia, is also part of the old house. In the garden is a noble yew hedge. The church, restored about 15 years since, as a memorial of Hooker, is throughout Perp. In the modern E. window of five lights are the anns of Canterbury (centre), Eochester (1.), and Hooker (rt.). Hooker's monument, erected by Sii~ WiUiam Cowper in 1633, is on the N. wall of the chancel. It is a painted bust, in cap and ruff, witliin a circular medallion. Aljove are two angels bearing a wreath. The date here assigned for Hooker's death (1G08) is inaccurate. Itsiiould be 1600. Sir WiUiam Cowper, who, says Walton, " acknowledged Hooker to have been his spiritual fatlier," was an ardent royalist, and suli'ered much during the troubles. The parish register (kept at tiie rectory) contains long entries in Hooker's writing. On the S. side of the nave, above the capital of the pillar opposite the pulpit, is a niche in whieli stood the image of the Virgin, patroness of the eh., to whom AVilliam Hawte gave by his will in 1462 sundry relics, including a i)iece of the stone on wliich the archangel Gabriel descended when he salut 'd her, for the image to rest its feet upon. From Bisliopsbourne the tourist may either return at once to the " Via Alba," extend his excursion to Upper Hardres, or proceed along the bottom of the valley to Barham, and regain the downs from t.ience. The Church of Upper Hardres, 2 m., is for the most part E. E. and contains some good brasses - John Storte, rector, 1404 ; George Hardres, 1485 ; and some others for the Hardi-es family, who seem to have been settled here from a period soon after the Conquest, and wlio con- 220 Route 1 1 . — Kingstone. — Barham. Sect. I. tiuued to reside at Hardres Court I iiutil Sir William Hardres died with- out issue iij 17G4. At Hardres Court (now a farmhouse) the gates of Boulogne were long preserved " in the garden wall, opjiosite the cli." Thomas Hardres, who was present with Henry VIII. at the siege of Boulogne, was permitted to bring away these gates as a mark of his services. They liave long disappeared. The dagger of Henry VIII. was also shown here. The king, it was said, had left it at Hardres Court as an additional mark of favour, after passing two days in the house on his return from France. Through this i^arish runs the ancient Stone Street (see Rte. 7), along which the tourist may still travel nearly as far as Hythe. Tlie country is much wooded and very pleasant. At Peiluim, on the W. side of the Stone Street, are remains of entrenchments which, as usual in this part of Kent, are called Caesar's. About half way between Bishojjs- bourne and Barliani is a little inn called "Black Eobin's Corner," witli a, negro for its sign. The original "Black Robin," however, was a famous highwayman, who frequented the neiglil)ouihood about fifty years since. Kingslone, rt., is apparently the place which has given its name to a remarkable tliaumaturgist, " St. Thomas Regio-Lapidensis," whose miracles seem to have rivalled tliose of his greater namesake of Canter- bury. (See for perhaps the fullest notice of this Saint existing, ' Notes and Queries,' vol. ii.) Close to the village of Barham is a dry bridge under which the " Nailbourne," form- ing the ujiper course of the Lesser Stour, occasionally comes down. The Church of Barham is early Dec. and contains some brasses. The manor was held of the arch- bishops, and was in the hands of Reginald Fitzurse, one of Becket's nuirdcrers — Barham Ijeing, it is .said, the English version of tlie name Fitzurse (althougli the resem- blance is more probably accidental). A family named from the place continuedi here until the reign of James I., and from it the autlior of the 'Ingoldsby Legends' claimed descent. Tappiwjton, or Tapton Wood, the scene of sundry murders in the Legends — " an antiquated manor- house, with gable ends, stone stan- chions, and tortuous chimneys," lies on the side of the valley beyond Denton. It still boasts its " ineradi- eal)le bloodstain on the oaken floor, bidding defiance to the united energies of soap and sand," — the scene of " Bad Sir Giles's fratricide," a genuine tradition. Broome Bark (Sir H. Oxenden), the house of most architectural character in tlie neiglibourliood, was built about 1G20 by a member of the Dixwell family, whose " pyramid" appears m the S. aisle of Barham Church. There are some fine beeches in the park.] From Barham we regain the downs, which are loftiest at this point. The air of all tliis district is unusually bracing, and instances of longevity are common. The soil is thin and indifferent. Like the central moors of the " kingdom of Fife," which it much resembles, it is the "frieze garment" of Kent, here a district of " health without wealth." As tbe chalk hills slope, however, toward Thanet on the N. and the country about Folkestone S., the "golden border" rapidly gains on the frieze, as is the ease in Scotland. Barham Doicns, properly so called, are about 4 m. long, the elevation being greatest at their E. end. From the wide extent of open ground afforded by them on the direct line of the Watling Street, they have been the scene of sundry great " gatherings," from the days of Ca3sar to those in wliicli Napoleon's camp threatened " Kent and Chris- Kent. Route 11. — BarJiam Doicns. -Actishani. 121 tendom " from the opposite heights of Boulogne. King Jolm's army of nO,000 men was encamped here in 1213, when Philip Augustus was preparing for that invasion of j England, afterwards accomphshed by his son Louis. On this oeeasion the king and Pandulph the legate met, probably lirst at Dover, and ' afterwards at Temple Ewell, about i) m. distant (see jyost) ; and the king resigned his crown to the " Italian priest " in the house of the Templars there. A more solemn resignation afterwards took place in St. Paul's Cathedral, Lomlon. (See, for the best account of all this period, 3Iil- iiian's ' Latin Christianity," iv.) A large body of troops was assembled on Barham Downs by Simon de Montfort, temp. Hen. 111., in order to oppose the landing of Queen Eleanor from France. Here Henrietta Maria, after landuig at Dover, May 10, 1G25, during her progress to Canterljury with the king, found a number of the court ladies awaiting her. Hemietta left her carriage, and held her first English " drawing-room " on Barham Downs, in a tent which liad been pitched for her reception. The last great assemblage on these do'W'us was the camp formed at the time of Napoleon's Boulogne de- monsti-ation, of which traces are stiU visible. A small square intrenehment with u single vallum exists on the side of the hill facing Kingstone Church. Numerous barrows, great numbers of which were opened by Mr. Fans- sett of Heppington, are scattered over the downs. They are of various periods, from early British to Saxon. Twine (de Reb. Albion.) describes the opening of a very large one here in the reign of Henry "VIII., in which much armour of unusual size was found. His description is too vague however to detennine its cliaracter. The Canterbury races, no longer of mucli importance, are held on IKent it Sussex.'] Barham Downs ; and here the elec- tion of mendjcrs for East Kent takes place. [The country 1. of the downs con- tains some interesting points, which the tourist may proceed to visit through a series of intricate cross- roads. The scenery is for the most part veiw pleasant, witli broad jias- toral valleys, tliroughout wliicli tufts of wood, mostly beech and ash, are scattered at intervals. Above them rise green, imenclosed hills, com- manduig very tine views over the country seaward. The parks of Goodnestoue, Knowlton, St. Alban's, and Fredville, with their richer masses of foliage, add not a little to the beauty of the near landscape. Adislimii, about -|m. off tlie downs, and best reached by a road turning off opposite Bishopsbourue, is inter- esting from its connection with tlie Priory of Clirist Church, Canterlnny, to wliich foundation it was granted by King Eadbald in (JKi, free of all tribute except tlie well-known "tri- noda necessitas" — contributions to- ward the repair of castles and liridges, and assistance in the " fyrd " or military expedition. In all sub- seciuent grants to the cliurch of Canterbury, involving siinilar pri- vileges, it was usual to insert the words "Libere sicut Adisham," or the letters I;. S. A., instead of re- cording the various immunities at length. Tlie manor still continues in the possession of the Canterbiuy Chapter, to wliicli it was restored bv Hemy Vlll. Tlie C/^»re/^ dedicated to the Holy Innocents, is cruciform, with a central tower. The greater jiart is E. E. There are no monu- ments of importance. li 111. from Adisham is Goodnestoiie (conunonly called Gunsfou) Parle (Sir Brook Bridges, Bart., whose family has been settled here since the reign of Queen Anne). The house was rebuilt in 1733. The greater part of the churrh, which adjoins, is modern. Tlie tower is M 900 l^oute 11. — Chilknden . — Nonington . Sect. I. however the usual Kentish Perp., and the single aisle is E. E. Brasses: wifo of AViiliam Goodnestone, 1423 ; "William Bovs, wife aud 8 claildren, 1507. The adjoining parish of ChiUenden is best known from its having given name to the prior of Clirist Church Cauterbuiy (d. 1411), who did so much for his monastery and cathe- dral. (See Canterbury, Ete. 8.) The clturch here, however, belonged to the Priory of Leeds. It is very small, late Norm., witli Perp. windows in- serted. The N. and S. doors are the original Norm. From this point the tourist may return to the Dover road by a road skirting tlie parks, wliich almost join each other, of Knon-lton (Ad'miral D'Aeth), St. Albau's Court (W. O. Hammond, Esq.), and Fredville (\. P. Plumptre, Esq.). At St. Albans, wliich was bought by the ancestor of the pre- .sent proprietor, temp. Pliilip and Mary, is the portrait by Jansen of the beautiful Lady Bowyer, called "the Star of the East," painted dur- ing Jansen's residence at Bridge (see arde). The house contains some other pictures of interest. In Fredville Park are some of the most remarkable trees in this part of Kent — the grandest being an enor- mous oak, which stands not far from the house, aud is well known tliroughout all the country as " the Fredville Oak." It is of no great height, but measures 3G ft. in girtli. Tlie rarity of the oak throughout the district renders this tree espe- cially wortliy of notice. Its age is unknown ; but it may have shadowed the Saxon hunter long before the "alien king" fought for his new crown at Hastings. Fredville was held of the Castle of Dover, and formed part of tlie barony of Saye. In the reign of Richard III. it came into the hands of tlie Boys family, who suffered mucli during the civil war, and whose last representatives (about 1G73), John aud Nicholas Boys, "finding that there was no further abode at Fredville, departed each from thence, with a favourite hawk in hand, and became pension- ers at the Charterhouse in Lon- don." — Hasted. The Church oi Nonington, in which parish Fredville stands, is for the most part E. E., but of no very great interest. Passing rt. the small church of Womejisioould, or Wimlingswold (called by the natives Womenjole), which has nothing to detain the tourist, the main road is regained nearly opposite Broome Park. At Denne hill (Colonel Moutrcsor), round which the road winds, are traces of very extensive intrenchments, which earlier antiquaries regarded as in- dications of the line of Cesar's in- land march from Deal.] The main road, along which we are again advancing, had in former days an evil reputation as the ttivouritc haunt of nocturnal phan- toms, especially of Robin Goodfellow and liis friends. "By this time,"" wrote Reginald Scot in 1582, " all Kentish- men (some few fooles excepted) know that Robin Goodfellow is a knave." He could still, however, " llislead night waud^rors, laugbing at then' harm," when Hentzner, in 1598, passed over this road on his way to Dover. He was led astray, as he asserts, by a pair of horsemen, whose horses, dress, and general appearance ex- actly resembled those of his own companions, from whom he had been accidentally separated. He followed them for some distance ; but finding that they i:)res(rved a mysterious silence, that tliey .rode direct into the marshes, that fire broke forth wherever their horses' feet struck the earth, and that Will-with-the- wisps came gathering round in gTcat numbers, he became alarmed, and stopped. Fortunately his guide sounded his horn at that moment, and recalled him to the right track. His companions had seen nothing. Kkxt, Route 1 1 . — Barfreston . — CoIJred. 223 The greater part of JTootton Court (John Brydgcs, E.«q.), which lies on a liill rt. of tlie main road, was rebuilt toward the end of the last cent. The earlier life of Sir Eger- ton Brydges was spent here, and in the neighbouring parisli of Denton ; and here lie made those observations on the "provincial dignity "of the Kentish sqnires, which he turned to account in his subsequent novels, not however without finding that nature had provided even Kentish squires with tolerably efficient means of self-defence. (See his Autubio- (jroplty, vol. i.) [Near the 10th milestone fi-om Cauterbuiy a road turns off 1. to Barfreston (better known here as Barson), distant about 2 m. The Church is the great lion of the district, and one of the most remark- able Norm, buildings in England. Its enrichments are ruder than those of Ifificy, near Oxford, with which church it has perhaps most in com- mon, and its date is probably much earlier. In this county the Church of Patrixbourne (sec ante) seems most to have resembled Barfreston. Hugh de Port, Constable of Dover, on wliom the manor of Barfreston was bestowed after Bishop Odos disgrace in 1081, has been pointed out us the probable builder of the eh. Abp. Lanfranc, Gundnlf Bishop of Rochester, and Prior Ernulf of Canterbury, had introduced Caen .stone and good masons to Eng- land, and the Norman lords in many parts of Kent seem to have eagerly taken advantage of them. The walls of Barfreston Church are 2 ft. 9 hi. thick ; the exterior of Caen stone, the middle tilled in with niblile. llemark the wreathed jnl- lars of the chancel arch, — the exterior corbel-heads, — the niclies for tigures all round the exterior walls, — the great S. entrance, — the circular window of the chancel, — aird the two arches below (withoTit the walls), which, it has been suggc sted, may j have been intended to serve as [ burial-places for the founder's I family. Tlie ch. has been lately restored with much care, and with very good result. In visiting Barfreston either from Canterbury or Dover, the excursion should be prolonged to Walihrt^hore and the church of CohJred. Tlie rich tree masses of Waldershare Purh (Earl of Guildford, which lies about 2 m. olf the Dover road, and 1 m. from Barfreston), together with its lofty Bclvidere, are conspicuous from a great distance. Tlie house was built by Sir Henry Furnese, temp. Will. HI. The park is extensive and well stocked with deer. From the tower of the Bclvidere, which stran- gers are allowed to ascend, there is a very wide view over all this part of E. Kent, with a broad stretch of sea, and the French coast beyond. Wal- dershare ijasstd through the Mal- maynes, the Monyns, and tlie Fur- neses, to the Guildford family in 1790. The farm-house of Mahiiaius, at the N. end of the parish, occupies the site of the original mansion. Tlie Church, which is nearly covered with ivy, contains a stately monument erected by Sir Robert Furnese, at the beginning of the last cent., to his father. Sir Henry. It is in the true taste of the time— a jiyramid, supported by 4 female figures. Remark the noble yews in the chuix'hyard. The Church of Coldred, which ad- joins Waldersiiare Park, S., stands on the summit of a hill, and within an oval intrenchnient, the area of wliich contains about 2 acres. At the N. E. corner is a lofty mound, resembling that of Wodensborough (Rte. 10). A well of very great deptli was discovered many years since in cutting a road throiigli the centre of the intrenchnient ; and Roman sepulchral remains have been found in Waldershare Park (about g m. distant), indicating the existence there of an extensive cemetery. The 224 Route 11. — Lydden. — EvxlL Sect. I. iutrenelinients at Colilrcd were made, s;iy.s tradition, " by a king of the !<ame name." Hasted suggests that there may be here some recoUcetion of Ceolred of Mercia, who seems to have been in Kent in the year 715. The ch. itself has little interest, with the exception perhajis of the W. bell-turrets, whieh, uncoimnon in England, are frequent on the opposite side of the Channel.] The main road will be regained at L]/dden, Hi m. from Canterbury. In tliis parish are the sources of a kind of "nuilbourne," wliicli is said to have air underground connection witli the waters called for tliis reason the "Lydden spouts," falling into the sea from the cliffs at Hougham, about 4 ni. distant. From this point to Dover tlie road inns between lofty, bare clialk hills, not unpicturesque, and commanding line views from tlieir sununits. The little river Dour, which rises here, and gives name to Dover, accom- jianies the road through the valley \>> the harbour. x\t 13 m. we pass tlirougli the village of Ewell, or Temple Eivdl. The manor was granted by William Peverelle to the Knights Templars l)efore 1185 ; and it was either here, or at the Commandcry of tlie Tem- ])lar3 in the adjoining i^arish of Swingfield (Etc. 7), that the firmous scene took place between John and tlie legate randulph (1213), inwhicli the king resigned his crown. Tlie recognition by King Jolni of the right of Abp. Laiigton to the see of Canterbury, which was one result of the meeting, is dated from "The Temple of Ewell," thereby rendering the claim of Ewell the more pro- bable. There was no house of the Templars at Dover, where the scene of tlie resignation has somctuues been laid. The " Temple of Ewell " stood on the hill 1. about 1 m. from the village. The ancient buildings were entirely removed toward the middle of the last cent. Tlie present village church is small and quite uninterest- ing. The word " minnis," which occurs frequently in this part of Kent (Swingfield Minnis, Ewell Minnis, &c.), is, like the name of the Dour rivulet, a Celtic relic, and signifies a "stony common. ' A very pictiu-esque view occurs about 1 m. beyond Ewell, where the church and village of River are seen rt., whilst in front the valley opens to Dover and the sea, the castle rising grandly 1. At 14 m., the little village oiBuckland, the stream of the Dom- is crossed : beyond it, 1., is seen the Chm-ch of Charlton, rebuilt in 1820; and the tourist speedily enters IG m. Dover. (See Rte. 7.) SECTION II. SUSSEX. ROUTE^^. KOUTE 12. Tuiibridgc to Hastings 13. Hastings to Asliford .. . 14. Loudou to Brighton .. 15. London, by Lewes, to Hast ings PAGE . 22.5 . 245 . 254 26G ROUTE PAOK 1(1. Brighton to Chichester .. . . 2'J2 17. East Grinstend to Hastings 32G 18. Horsham to Rlioreliam . . . . 33i 19. Godalming,by Fetworth and Midhurst, to Chichester . . 313 ROUTE 12. TUNBRIDGE TO HASTINGS. (^South-Eastern Railu-ag, London Bridge Station, Tnnhridge Wells and Hast- ings Branch.) Soon after leaving Tuubridge tlie high gables of Summerhill (Baron Goldsmid) are seenl. (See Ete. 1.) Through a wooded district tlie railway reaches 5 m. (46 m. from London) Tun- hridge WelJs. {Inns : Calverley, best and most extravagant, with extensive pleasiu-e-grounds, and a terrace from which a most noble view is com- manded ; Mount Ephraim, well situ- ated ; Eoyal Sussex, veiy good, on the Pantiles. Tlie season is July, August, and September, during which months lodgings are exorbi- tantly dear. The best and dearest situations are Mount P^.phraim and Calverley I'ark.) Tuubridge Wells, with the single exception of "The Batli," the oldest watering-place in the kingdom, occu pies the head and slopes of one of the numerous valleys of the Weald, through which tributary streamlets til id their way to the IMedway. The soil is rocky and sandy, with a mix- ture of loani,wluch dries rapidly. The general aspect is S.W. The views are very fine, and probably no English watering-place (inland) is better placed. Three parishes, Tuubridge, Frant, and Speldhurst, meet at the Wells ; two counties, Kent and Sussex ; and three ancient forests. Bishop's DoNvn, Water Down, and S. Frith, traces of wliieh remain in riumerous scattered j^atehes of wood- land. The three centres of popula- tion are ]\Iount Ephraim, IMouiit Sion (these names date from tlie first "discovery" of the Wells, and are said to have been suggested liy some fancied resemblance to the site of Jerusalem), and Blount rieasant : separated by a broad and very plea- sant conunon and race-course, and by the Wells themselves. Calverley, tlie name given to tlie hotel uul Route 12. — Tunhridge Wells. Sect, II. estate at tlie head of the valley, is a corruption of Culverden, the "den' (small wood) haunted by the culver or wood-pigeon. Tlie place is essentially quiet ; little of gaiety or display goes on here ; and the chief resources of the visitors arc the agreeable country, and tlie charming rides and walks in the vicinity. It is still, as Evelyn describes it, " a very sweet place, private, and refreshing." The waters, which rise in the l)ot- tom of tlie valley, are chalybeate, clear and bright, with a slight Init not un- pleasant taste of steel. The infusion of iron is not very powerful, and many similar sjirings are to be found throughout ihe " Forest Eidge" of Sussex, and in different parts of Kent. The " Wells " here were first discovered about IGOG by Dudley, L(u-d North — whose shattered health was completely reinstated by them. In a book pul)lishcd in 1(;37 he recommends them in preference to "the Spa in Germany," " a charge- able and inconvenient journey to .sick bodies." The spring had no doidjt been long known to the peasantry, for, as Meg Dods asserted of St. llonan's Well, its steely taste was traditionally said to have been impartetl by the Devil, who, after his conflict with St. Dunstan at Mayfield, fled here to chp his nose in the water liitherto pure and tasteless. Another and perhaps more satisfactory ver- sion attributes the chalybeate of the spring to St. Dunstan himself, who, finding that the enemy's nose hail imparted an luiusual heat to his tongs, cooled them in the water at this place. The nearest lodgings to be found at the time of Lord North's discovery were at Tnnlmdge,— hence the name given to the Wells. Others were soon erected, however, at Southborongh, about half way between Tunbridge and the Wells,'and at Rusthall. The waters s])eedily obtained consider- .able reputation, and Henrietta, queen of Charles I., visited them more than once ; the Cavaliers assembhng at Southborough and the Puritans at Rusthall. They rose into the highest fashion after the restoration, and e(hfying notices of the visits of the Court here will be found m the pages of Grammont. " When the Court, soon after the restoration, nsited Tunbridge Wells, there was no town ; but witliiu a mile of the siDrmg, rustic cottages, somewhat cleaner and neater than the ordinary cottages of that time, were scattered over the heath. Some of these cabins were moveable, and were carried on sledges from one part of the common to another. To these huts, men of fasliion, wearied with the din and smoke of London, sometimes came in the sunmier to breathe fresh air and to catch a glimjjse of rural hfe. During the season a kind of fair was daily held near the fountain. The Avives and daughters of the Kentish fanners came from the neighbouring vil- lages with cream, cherries, wheatears, and quails. To chafter with them, to flirt with them, to praise their straw hats and tight heels, was a re- fresliing pastime to voluptuaries siek of the airs of aetresses and maids of honour. Milliners, tojonen, and jewellers came down from London and opened a bazaar under the trees. In one booth the pohtician miglit find his coiiee and the London Gazette ; in another were gamblers jdaying deep at basset ; and on fine evenings, the fiddles were in attend- ance, and there were morris-dances on tlie elastic turf of the bowling green. In 1GS5 a subscription had just been raised among those who trequented the wells for building a church, which the Tories, who then domineered everywhere, insisted on dedicatingto St. Charles the Martvr." {Miir<iHhnj,Yi. E., i. 346.) This ch. closely adjoins the Wells (the pulpit is in the parish of Speld- hurst, the altar in Timbridge, and Sussex, Eoute 12. — Tanhrklge Wells. 227 the vestry in Fraut) — the present urrangements of wliicli date from 1703, when John, Earl of Bucking- ham, gave " tile Gro\^ " as a pro- menade. Queen Anne snhsequentl}- gave the Bason, called the Queen's Well ; and in her honour the "Queen's Grove," lately replaced by younger trees, was planted on the common. She contributed also toward the pa\dng of the promenade or "parade" with Pantiles, whence its present name. This paving has been replaced with stone, but the walk .still retains much of the character represented in a well-known and cu- rious print of the last century ; when Dr. Johnson strmibled along it, and " all the good company on the Pan- tiles " came to stare at Mrs. Elizabeth Carter, " the woman who could talk Greek faster than any one in Eng- land." Beau Nash at this time pre- sided over the " social arrangements " of the Wells. One or two names of historical interest are connected with houses still remaining at Tunbridge Wells. Pope's Duke of Chandos died here at Mount Pleasant House ; Lord North, after his retirement, lived at Grove House ; and Richard Gmn- berland has given his name to a house on Mount Sion, where he lived for more than 20 years. " In this .salubrious climate," he says, " I never experienced so much iudispo- .sition as to confine me to my bed even for a single hour." The Wells themselves arc at the end of the Pantiles. The spring retains its original situation ; but is protected by a kind of jiortico or piazza, completed in 1847. The water is supplied by women in attendance called Dippers. On the Parade, the " Tunbridge ware," for which the place is cele- 1)rated, may bo procured, of great beauty, and at no very extravagantly higli prices. TlH>re are one or two manufactories of it at th(! Wells, but the largest is in tlie town of Tun- bridge itself. This species of inlay- ing was introduced here from S]>a, iA order to complete the resemblance between the two watering-places. Cherry, plum, holly, and sycamure are tlie woods chiefly used. Tlie nmllis from Tunbridge Wells are numberless. The Cominon, furze and fern covered, is crossed by broad paths, wliich have the advantage of rapidly di-ying after rain. The locks scattered over it are characteristic of the Hastings formation ; and similar masses occur throughout the Weald. On liiisthall Couiihou, 1 m., is the Toad Bock, a remarkable logan- like cluster, from wliicli there is a striking view. The Hi<jh liorhg, 1^ in., are the largest and most pictu- resque in the neighbourhood. Among them, INIrs. Carter found the " Sal- vator-like scenes " through which she wandered, "not without a kind of pleasing terror." " Walking about the solitudes," says Evelyn (10*)!)," I greatly admired at the extravagant turnings, insinuations, and growth of certain birch-trees among the rocks." There are still some remarkable birch-trees among the High Eocks, but the tourist who now visits them will scarcely find the scene a " soli- tude " as in Evelyn's time. They have been enclosed, and the visitor is admitted through a glazed porch, after paying (J(/. Opposite the en- trance is a little inn, called The Cape of Good Hope. The High Pocks are covered with inscriptions ; the most edifying being the following e])itapli on I3ow, a lapdog lost iu one of the chasms : — " 1702. " Thi.s scratch I make tliat you may know On this rock lyes ye beauleous Bow; Keaiier, this IJock is the Bow's Bell, Strike't with thy ■stick, ami ring his knell." The "Bell rock," thus inscrilicd, rings with a metallic sound when struck. The walk to the High Rocks, through lanes and hazel coppices, is pleasant. 228 Route 12. — Bayham Ahhey. Sect. IL rendiunj clmrch, 22 m., has some Norm, portions. Ailjoitiing Pt mbury Greeu is Great Baijlatll, an old seat of the Ciilpepers. Drires. — Penshurst, 7 m. (see Etc. 7. The interior is only shown on Mondays and Saturdays, unless tlic family are absent). Hever, 11 m. (Rte. 7). Knowle and Sevenoaks, 11 m. (Etc. 6). IMayfield, 8 m. (see 2Jost. The distance is less from the Tieehurst station, but the road from Tunbridge Wells is vci-y lieautiful, keeping- to the high ground the whole way, and commanding noble views). Withj'am and Buckhurst, 6 m. (Ete. 17). Other interesting excursions to be made from Tuuln-idge Wells are Bayhaui Abbey, Eridge, andGroom- l»ridge. ]j((i/h<(m AhliL'ij ([NFarquis Camden) is distant 6 m. (the footway is about 5 m.). The ruins are shown on Tuesdays and Fridays. Both ride and walk are very beautiful, especially the latter, which leads through the W(jods, and along tlie edge of an extensive sheet of water formed by the late marquis. The modern house is a mere villa, sel- dom inhabited, and so low as to have its lawn and cellars flooded in winter. The ruins of the Ahhey stand in the groimds, and consist of the eh. and some of its dependent buildings. The walls of the nave, choir, and transepts are tolerably perfect, and much of the clerestory remains. The ch. was about 57 ft. long, very narrow (al)out 24 ft.) and stone vaulted. It is late E. E. with some Dec. adilitions in tlie nave, and in a gateway N. of the ch. The de- tails have considerable beauty. Ee- jnark especially a cluster of foliage in the nave, of admiral)le design and execution. The E. end was apsidal, this limb of the cross being unusually sliort. A pile of ruin marks the site of tile high altar. The doorways on either side of the nave, S. and N., were formed for commmiicating with the transept l)y means of passages, there being ]io side ais^les. Two of the chapels in the N. transept retain their vaulting. A stone coffin and a few grave-slabs also remain. Great and judicious care has been bestowed on the ju'eservation of the ruins, which are partly covered with ivy. The iioor of greensward is kept smooth, and the whole is in excellent order. Bayham was a liouse of Premon- stratensian Canons, first founded at Otteham, or Othani, in Sussex (see Ete. 15), and removed herein ]200> owing to the poverty of the original site. It was largely endowed by Ealph de Dene, the foiuider of the house at Otham, by Eobert de Tlinrnham, and by Ela de Sackville of Buckhurst. The canons here were in great favour with the sur- rounding peasantry, and on the dis- solution, after their first exijulsion, a " company with painted faces and vizors ' drove out the commissioners, and put tlie canons in place agaui, though not to remain long. After passing through various hands Bay- ham Abbey was purchased in 17i4 by Cliief Justice Pratt, to whose de- scendant it gives a subordinate title. It has been suggested that the peculiar form of the ch. tells its own tale. Stern Premonstratcnsian canons (the order was one of great strictness) wanted no congregations and cared for no processions ; there- fore thev built their ch. like a long room. ' {A. J. B. Hope.) The churches of other religious orders, which sought more to attract the people, exhibit ditferent arrange- ments. On the stream, about 1 m. be- low Bayham Abbey, is the site of Ghiurcgter Furnace, an ancient iron- work, so called in lionour of a visit from the Duke of Gloucester, son of Queen Anne. This furnace disputes with one at Mayfield the distinction of liaving cast "the great balustrade still remaining round St. PaulV Catliedral. Sussex. Route 1 2. — ErkJge, — Groomhridge. 22<,t 2^ in. beyond Bayliam, in Liunljcr- luirst, is Scotneij Castle, of wliicli one line round tower, luachicolated, re- mains. It was a seat of Abji. Chi- eheley, 1-118, and long continued the residence of his collateral descendants the DarreUs, whose house here is said to have been rebuilt l)y Iiiigo Jones. Eruhfc. (Earl of AbergavennA') is about 3 m. from the Wells. This place has been in the Neville family above 500 years ; but the castle and all the cottages about it have been re- built during thein-esent centmyin the worst possible taste, the castle itself being ipiite -northy of a place in Pugin's ' Contrasts.' Great care is taken to exclude the puljhc from the park and plantations, which are very extensive. The green rides cut thr(jugh the woods in all directions are said to exceed 70 ni. in length. Saxonbury hill, on the W. side of the park, is crowned by an ancient cir- cular entrenchment : m the centre of the area is a prospect tower, the views from which, especially toward Crowborongh, S.W., are magnificent. Notliing, however, is shown either in the house or grounds. The only (and a very good) view of the house is obtained by driving to Bridge Green, and walking thence about 2 m. to Frant, while the carriage pro- ceeds by another road. Queen Elizabeth passed six days at Eridge in 1578. "From Bridge, mj- L. of Burgenys house," writes Lord Burleigh, " the Queen's Majesty had a hard begyning of a progress in the 'Weald of Kent, and namely in some part of Sussex, where sm-ely are more wondeross rocks and valleys, and much worss ground, than in tlie Peck." My Lord Burleigh had pro- bably seen and marvelled at the range called "Eridge Eocks,' 1. of Eridge Green, of the same character as those nearer Tunbridge Wells. They are more important, however, than the High Eocks, and more pic- turescpiely shrouded in woods of pine and oak. About 2 m. furtlier. and lying a short distance oft" llie Brighton road, are Uarrisoii's Eocks, and Perm s Eocks, named from the great Quaker, who had an estate iu the neighbourhood. All these rocks are worth visithig. At Harrison's Eocks the beautiful Osmunda rega- hs, the (pieen of British ferns, gi-ows plentifully. At Groomhrichje, 3^ m. from Tun- bridge Wells, is the Moat House, on the site of the old seat of the Wallers, W'here the Duke of Orleans was detained a prisoner for 25 years after Agincourt. The duke was found iifter the battle mider a hca]> of dead bodies, by Eichaid Waller of Groondjridge, who had greatly dis- tinguished himself. He was re- covered, and committed to the cus- tody of his captor. During his detention at Groomb ridge he is Sidd to have re])uilt the house ; and also to have built the church oi'Speldhursf, I3 m., in wliich parish Groombridgc stands. This ch. was destroyed by lightning in 1791. A stone over the porch, on which are the arms of the Duke of Orleans, was in-cservcd, and attached to the 8. porch of the new building, where it still remains. The chapel by the roadside mai- Groombridge was rebuilt in 1625, after the return of Prince Charks from Spain, and was subscqxiently dedicated to Saint Charles the Mai- tyr. accordhig to Kilburn. The jiark of Great Bounds (3 m. Sir Charles Hardinge) has some pleasant scenery. In the birch wood is a column erected to the memory of Lady Catherine Stewart, first wife of the Marquis of London- derry, then General Stewart. From Frant Cliurch (2^ m. S. of the Wells) may be seen Dungeness and Beachey Head. The 3 i)oints form one of the triangles of the Ordnance Survey. On the green are the old butts for archery. The views from this high gromid rank among (lie finest woodland scenery in England. Longer excursions may be made 230 Boute 12, — Ticehurst. — Mayfield. Sect, ir from TuiibiiJc;;e Wells to Cranhrool; along the ridge extending into the Weald of Kent (see Kte. 7), or to East Griustead, and the wild country of Ashdown Forest (I?te. 17). Proeeeding toward Hastings, after passing Frant (3 m., see (uite) and Wadhiast (2 m.), where the ch., otherwise uninteresting, contains a curions proof of the former activity of the furnaces in this district, in the shape of thirty iron grave-slal>s, tlie railway reaches Ticehurst lioad, G m. The borders of Kent have been skirted nearly tlio •whole way from Tunbridge Wells, and fine views are occasionally opened across the Weald country on either side. Tlie village of Tieelinrst is al^out 4 m. 1. from the station. In its Pcrp. ch. are consideralde re- mains of stained glass ; the letter W., in a coloured roundel, possibly indi- cates that the windows were the gift of John Wybarne, whose remarkable brass still remains here. The figures of his 2 wives, on either side, are mucli smaller than his own, of whicli tlie armour must date nearly a century earlier tlian 1490, the year inscribed on the brass. It is suggested that an earlier l)rass was approi^riated, or that the artist copied that at Etcliyng- ham (see post). Boarzell and Pashley, ancient houses in tliis parisli, may perhai>.s reward examination. Ticehurst, hke the other hursts in this district, indicates the ancient presence of deep forest, much of wliieh still remains. Its glades and thickets were once tlie liaimts of tlie fairy Tys, who, like his Saxon brethren, Niji, and Trip, and Job, has left his name to many an English green wood. The whole country is broken iuto the most j^i'-'turesque hill and dale. [The Ticehurst station is the best point from which to visit the very interesting remains at Mayfidd (5 m. rt.) The oountiy on either side is still wooded and "full of vurietv. The village itself stands high, com- manding wide ^^ews. Mayfield was a " peculiar " of the archbishops of Canterbury, and one of the line of si- milar parishes which extended across the country from the borders of Kent to the neighbourhood of Lewes. Al)p. Dunstan built the first ch. at Magavdda, as in other villages re- mote from Canterbury, where he had residences. It was of wood, and, find- ing when dedicating it that its posi- tion was not exactly E. and W., he put his shoulder to it, and " aliquau- tuliun pressit " the whole building into the right direction (Eadmer, Y. S. Dun.). Either before or after this miracle, Mayfield was the scene of St. Dunstan 's famous contest with the Devil. After holding the evil spirit with his tongs for some time, the saint let him go, when he leaped at one bound to Tunltridge Wells, and, plunging his nose into the s]ning, imparted to it its chalybeate qualities. Such is the local story, scarcely less accurate than that of the "Acta." The palace, adjoining the churcl.', tvas a favourite residence of the Abps. An important council, regulating the celeliration of holydays and saints' festivals, was held here in 1332, under Abp. Mepliam, who, like Abps. Stratford and Islij), died at Mayfield. The last-named archbishop biult tlie greater part of the palace here, " and wasted more of the timber hi the Dourdennes (Weald of Kent), than any of liis predecessors." (S. di' Birclilngton.) He fell from liis horse in riding between Sevenoaks and Tunl)ridge ; did not change his dress, and atf er dinner, at Mayfield, was seized vni\\ paralj-sis,— a fate which Aubrey might have recorded among his examples of oak-cutters' misfortunes (see Nunvood, Jland- hool; for Surrey, Ac). Cranmer ex- changed Mayfield with the king for other lands, and it has since passed through the hands of many dif- ferent proprietors. Sir Thos. G res- ham, Iniilder of tlie Exchange, re- Sussex. Route 12. — Mayfidd Palace. 231 stiJed here occasionally in great state, and entertained Elizabeth during one of her progresses. About 1740 the house was completely dis- mantled, and left to become the ruin it now is. The large Perp. Church of May- field, dethcated of course to St. Dunstan, is of no very liigh interest ; but the remains of the Palace of the Abps. deserve the most carefid nttention. They are partly Dec. of the 11th, and Perp. of the 16th, cent. The building, the plan of which was irregular, consisted of a prin- cipal hall, with apartments at the E. end, having projections in the form of square towers. At the lower end of the hall were the kitchen and buttery, and a tower with servants' apartments. On the S. side was the porter's lodge. The most ancient part of tlic l)uilding is the Great JfaU, dating about 1350, and evidently the work of Abp. Islip. Tlie stone used is the .sand rock of the neiglibourhood. The porch is massive and well propor- tioned. The arches, turned above the windows, between the buttresses, and " thus made to sustain a longituilinal as well as an outward pressure," should be remarked. Pinnacles pro- bably once existed on the buttress- heads, balancing the thrust of the internal arch. " The whole design is .singular, but beautifub and has been followed to some extent in the new library at St. Augustine's, Canter- bury." The transoms of the win- dows are peculiar to the domestic architecture of tlie time. Their tra- cery is remarkabh^ and should be compared with that in the hall- windows at Penshurst, and in the windows of Chartham Church, near Canterbury (lite. 8). Three lofty stone arches spanned the hall when perfect, and sustained a timber roof of acute pitch, resembling the earlier one at the Mote, Ightham, Kent, Avliere the centre arch is of stone, with timber lu-ches at each cud. " The stone arches (at Mayfield) clearly supported the roof, in which they took the place of i)rincipals. In the walls above the arches there are corbels which evidently sup- ported arched pieces under the purlines, and which probably sujk ported also queen-posts, as we should call them. It is to be lamented that the timber roof should have been destroyed, for it was probably unique."— J. H. Parker. Remark the vine, ivy, and oak-leaf of the roof corbels, bits of "natmulism " of the very best period. The stone; diaper work at the upper end marks the seat of the archbishop. (Conq). that in Canterbury Cathedral, over Dunstan's shrine.) The closed win- dow in the wall above probably communicated with his private apart- ments. Internal lengUi of hall, G8 ft. ; breadth, 38 ft. ; height, 50 ft. In" the Great DinuKj-Itoom, occu- pying one side of the quadrangle, is a hooded chimney-piece of stone, perhaps older than the hall. Ob- serve the open lead work and fleur- de-lys in the window of a lower room, perhaps a larder. In this part of the building are exliibited some vener- aide relics : St. Dunstan's anvil, hammer, and tongs, of course the identical pair with which he pinched the Devil. An ancient sword, called St. Dunstan's, may also be inspected. "The anvil and tongs are of no great antiquity, but the hammer, with its solid iron handle, may be medianal." {M. A. Lower.) All are of local manufacture, as is the massive hand- rail of the great stone staircase. Observe also what seems to be an iron mustard-mill, of 15th cent. work. Tliis parish, like others of the arcliljishop's " peculiars," stretching- through the Weald towards Lewes, is in the heart of the Sussex iron cUstrict (see Introduction : Sussex^. Mayfield had important furnaces, and the iron copings of Ilochester Bridge (now destroyed), presented early in the 16th cent, by Abp. 2;}2 Roite 12. — Etchingham. — Haichhurd. Sect. 11. Wailiam, were probably manufac- tured here. {M. A. Lower.) N. of the hall are traces of a sub- terranean passage, said to have led to the church. St. Dunstan's Well, carefully walled round, adjuins the kitchen apartments. Thomas May, the liistorian of the Long rarliament, ■\vas bcu'n in the palace in 1595. The village of Mayfield is a good centre from wliich to explore the l^icturescpie scenery of the surround- ing district. Eotheriield and Crow- borough Hill may be visited from here; and the pedestrian will lind u walk through the wild country between IMayfield and East Grinstead full of interest. (See Ete. 17.) The accommodations both at Mayfield and tlie other villages on this line are .suthciently rustic, but the never fail- ing Sussex resource of eggs and 1 lacon may always be depended on, and, for the most part, the cleanliness and lavender sheets of Isaac Walton's old- fashioned inn.] I! ni. beyond the Ticehurst Road station the railway reaches Etclu'iig- liain. The ch. here, close to the station, is of great interest. It is througliout late Dec, and the general mass, with sqirare tower, staircase turret, and high-pitched roof, is very medireval. The nave windows are unusual in form and tracery. The chancel is of great length The pe- culiar arrangement of steps should be noticed. The two westernmost windows on eitlier side are deep and large, the third raised high in the wall, and much smaller. The E. window is flamboyant. The original wood fittings remain in Ihe choir. (Jn the X. side, without, are indica- tions of a chantry. The chancel door (S.) should be noticed ; the font seems to be E. E., and perhaps belonged to an earlier ch. The 1)01 ch with its bargeboard is original. (C(jmp. the churches of Alfreston and Poynings, both in this county — of the same period, but diifering in details.) In the nave is a monu- ment, with Latin inscription ancl medallion l)ust, to Henrv Corboidd, F.S.A., father of the artists. The ch. was built by Sir WiUiam de Etchyngham (died 1387), part of whose fine brass remains in the chancel, mtli a rhyming inscription somewhat resembling that on the BLick Pi'ince's tomb at Canterbury. Adjoining is the brass of another Sir William, liis wife, and son, mider a triple canopy (1441). A helmet, another Etchingham relic, hangs in tlic S. aisle. The ch. has been most carefully restored throughout : the chancel at the cost of the rector, the Eev. Dr. Totty, now (1857) in his 101st year. The chm-chyard, in which is a fine old yew, was once moated, as was the ancient manor- house of the Etchynghams, over the site of which the railway now passes. This family was already estabhshed here early in the reign of Henry III.. and continued lords of Etchyngham until that of Elizabeth. The house of Uaremare (John Snejip, Esq.), in this parish, contains some cmious carving. At Seacoch'if Heath is a large house said to have beei i built liy a famous gang of smugglers, whose head-quarters were at Goud- liurst, and who infested all this district between the years 1740 and 1750. The Eother, which winds close to the chiuvh, was anciently navig- able as high as Etchingham. The Church of Burivash, on the ridge 3 m. W., contains the oldest existing article produced by Sussex iron-founders. It is a cast-iron .slab, with cross and inscription of the 14th cent., " Orate p. annenia Jhone Coline,"' probably an iron "mistress ' in the neighbourhood. [The i)leasant village of Huirl- hurst (about 4 m. E.) may be visited from the Etchingham station. Tlie greater part of the parish (iiieluding the ch.) lies in Kent. The large sandstone ell. is Dec. and Peip. The rich and peculiar tracery of the E. window deserves notice. Sussex. Route 12. — Rolcrtd ridge. Zo-J (Comp. Etchynghani. The tux-liitect was proliably the same in Ijuth mstances.) Tliere are N. and S. porches, each -with a parvise cliamher. Tlie Abbot of Battle, lord of the manor, erected the first ch. liere, temp. Edw. III. (Hussey.) Hawkhurst, like all the villages in tliis neighbourhood, enjoyed, for great part of the hist century, a bad preeminence as the resort of smug- glers and " water-thieves. " "I found an old newspaper t'otlier d^iy," wrote Walpole in 1750, to Montague, who had an estate near Hawkhurst, " with a list of outlawed smugglers. Tliere were John Price, aUasMias Majoram, Bob Plunder, Bricklayer Tom, and Roliin Cursemother, — all of Ilawk- hurst in Kent." Tlie irou-fm-uaces of Hawkhiu-st were at one tune the property of William I'enn, the courtier-quaker, wlio i^ossessed many others in Sussex. The village stands on high ground, and commands fine views over the Weald. In tlie neighbourhood is Col- ling icood (Sir John Herschel, Bart.)] S. of Etchuigliam the rail enters a pleasant tract of country, wldeh reaches quite to Hastings. Hounded, wood-covered lulls, and, in the lower groiuids, farms enringed with bright green pastmes, intersected by narrow lines of coppice, olier a constant suc- cession of thoroughly EngHsh pic- tures. In the midst of such scenery Ucs liohertshridye ('6 m.), where arc the .scanty remains of a Cistercian abbey, founded by Robert de St. Martin in 1I7(J. Its position, on the Pother, at a point wliere several small .streams, muting, flow on to Bodiam Castle, is in accordance ^vith the almost uni- versal choice of the discii)les of Ber- nard, who preferred the river valleys to the Iiills. A crypt remains nearly perfect, and the position of the chapel may be traced, jjut the rest is too completely ruined to be appropriated. Au " oasthouse " with a curious conical roof full of sparrows' nests shows some fragments of arches. In the Bodleian is preserved a volume liaviiig on one of its pages the words, "This book belongs to St. Mary of Robertsbridge ; whoever shall steal or sell it, let liim be Anathema Ma- ranatliii." That this inseriijtion was not without its terrors is proved by the lines written below : " I, John, Bp. of Exeter, know not where the aforesaid house is ; nor chd I steal this book, but acqiur-cd it in a lawful way." The abbots of Robertsbridge and Boxley, both Cistercian houses, were sent into Germany on the de- tention of Coeur de Lion, in order to ascertain the cause and jdace of his imprisonment. (Suss. Arch. Coll.) Horace Walpole, who, to the im- minent peril of his neck, travelled in 1752 through the "luirie ways" of Kent and Sussex in search of castles and abbeys, found Robertsbridge nearly as vuiknown as it seems to have been in the days of Bp. John. "Without being at "all killed," he says " we got uj), or down, I forget whicli, it was so dark, a famous jjre- cipice called Silcer Hill, and about lU arrived at a wretclied village called Pother (Robert's) bridge. We had (j miles farther, liut determined to stop, as it would be a pity to break our necks before we had seen all we intended. But alas ! there was only one bed to be had. All the rest were inhabited by smugglers, whom the people of the liouse called Mounte- haulc, and with one of whom the lady of the den told j\Ir. Cluite he might he." But :Mr. Chute "could not take to this societ3%" and about two in the morning the travellers arrived at Battle. (Lefters, vol. i.). In return- ing, the lord of Strawberry luxuriated in the view from Silver Hill, Mhieli extends far and wide over the Wealds of Ihe 2 counties. "It commands a whole horizon of the richest blue prospect you ever saw." This "pre- cipice " stretches up behind Salehurst Churcli, conspicuous from the rail- way. It has some E. E. portions, and nuiy repay a visit. 234 Route 12.— Battle Sect. II. Iridije Place (Sir. S. Miclde- tlnvuit, Bart.), Iligham (Mrs. Lux- ford), and Wigsell, formerly the re- sidence of the Culpepers, are in this parish. Professor Aire}''s tlicory, Avhich lands Ca3sar at Pevenscy, lixes tlio battle at -which Laherins was killed here at the Eother. {Arcltifoloijia, vol. xxxiv.). Bodiam Cnstle may he visited from this station, from -wliich it is distant aliont -i m. An excursion to it from Hastings, however, may be made to comprise Norfhiain and Brede, and is more to be recom- mended (see post). Through the same undulating- country the train reaches Battle (6 m.). A pictiu'csrpie view v)f the] abbey gateway, and of tlie church, surrounded by trees, is seen from the railway. Tlie abbey, which has recently (1857) become the pro- perty of Lord Harry Vane, is open to ^the public on Tuesdai/s and Fri- days ; and although much has been done to hinder the associations of the place from producing tlieir full effect, it still remains one of tlie most in- teresting sites in England. The cjreut battle, which the abbey rose to comnremorate, must first be noticed ; and if, before visiting the I'uins, the tourist passes to the high ground N. of the town, he will find himself in view of nearly all the localities : many of which may also be seen from the ten-ace of what is c-alled the banqueting hall, witliin the abbey. After defeating the Norwegians at Stamford Bridge, Harold, passing i-apidly S., took up his jJOsition on the rising ground now occupied by the abbey. His camp was protected l)y deep dykes, and by a breastwork of stakes and Inn-dles. The position commanded the only pass iidand from Hastings, for E. were broad woods and deep marshes, and W. the great Anderida forest still covi-red the country. A defeat would therefore have been all but irreparable by the Normans. " Had the entrenchments of Battle been held -n'ith the same enduring coolness as the lines of Torres Vedras or the slopes of Water- loo, the Normans would have fallen back dispirited and starved ; in a day or two they would perhaps have been attacked by superior forces, and, in all probability, the glory of the Norman name would Jiave perished on the plains of Hastings." — {Prof. Aireij, Arclixol., xxxiv.) WUliam marched from Hastings along the 8.W. slope of the ridge extending from Fairlight to Battle, passing through what is now Crow- hurst Park to Telham Hill, then called Jlelheland (within sight S. of Battle, and marked by a white farm- liouse). This point, a mile distant from the Saxon camp, he reached early on the morning of Oct. 14th, 10G6, the feast of St. Calixtus. Here he and his knights armed. The duke's own hawberk was brought to him reversed; a bad omen, but one that he made light of, as he had done by his fall on the beach. (See Pevenaey, lite. 1.5.) Here also he vowed, if he should be victorious, to build on the field of battle a great abl)ey, for the souls of the slain, and in honour of St. Martin, the i^atron of soldieis. The holy banner, blessed by the pope, and containing- within its staff one of the hairs of St. Peter, was then raised, and the army moved forward. On all the surrounding- heights Saxon monks and priests had posted themselves, watching and praying. • Tidllefer the Jongleur first ad- vanced toward the Saxon camp, sing- ing the song of Roland. He struck the first blows, and fell himself later in the battle, which then began in earnest. The Norman cry was " Dien aide ;" the Saxon " Out, out ! Holy cross, (ilod Almighty." Harold'.s army would have been invincible had it remained within the en- trenchments, but the Normans pre-' Sussio:. Eoute 12.— Battle. 235 tended to retreat, the Saxons broke out upon them, and Eustace of Boiilogne fell on the Saxon rear. In tliis fliglit and pursuit Normans and Saxons fell into a ditch called the Malfosse in wliich many perished. This Malfosse has been fixetl at the .stream which rims under Caldbcck Hill toward Wallington (N.W. of Battle). It was then a morass. The battle was then renewed. The Norman arrows had not yet done much execution, but William now directed the archers to shoot upward into tlie ail', and one of tliese de- scending sliafts pierced Harold's eye. The battle, wliich liad hitlierto seemed desperate on the part of the Normans, now turned in their favour. Twenty knights bound themselves by a vow to carry off the Saxon standard. They suc- ceeded ; many fell ; and in the struggle Harold himself was struck twice on the helmet and thigh ; by whom was never known, (jrurth and Leof- wine, his brothers, also fell at this time. Tliis decided the battle, which, liowever, struggled on until the even- ing, when the remaining Saxons fled to the woods. It had lasted the wliole day. William supjied and slept on the spot where Harold liad fallen. The main scene of tlio fight was then "probably a down covered witli lieath and furze — a wild rough com- mon without houses or trees." (M. A. iSancfuelac, or " the lake," is the name given to that part of the town lying E. of the ch., — tradition says Ijccause of the blood sjiilt tliere. The earliest form, however, in which the word ,'ippears is Sindlarhc Local " folk-lore " found another trace of the battle in the Utile rivulet Asten, close by — ■" Asten once dishiined willi native Englisli blood. Whose soil yet, uben but wot with any little rain. Doth blush, as put in mind of those there sadly slain. " Drayton, I'tAjolb. Its som-ces arc chalybeate springs tinged with red. Tellutm Hill, where the Conqueror's standard was raised, is, says tradition, probably Tcllrnau hill, because William there " told his men." So Caldhec is converted into "Call-back" Hill, because the Con- queror here called hncl; his pursuing troop. The name of " Moidjoi/e," one of the divisions of the hundred of Battle, was occasionally given to a heap of stones set up as a monument of victory, and may have been so here ; but it also frequentl}^ occurs as the name of a sjiot from which the first view of a great religious house was obtained. To the Watch Oal;W. of the town, on the London road, a vague tradi- tion is attached referring to some watcli set the night before or after the battle. Standard Hill, in the parish of Ninfleld, some distance E., cannot possildy refer to the po.sition of the Saxon or Norman standai'd, though of course so fixed on by the local guides. All these localities liave been most carefully investigated by ]\Ir. M. A. Lower, whose descrip- tions (see his vol. entitled ' Coidri- hidious to Litrratnre ') have here been followed. It is worth remarlving that the battle was not improlmbly fought on Harold's own land. Nearly all the manors on this southern coast had been the property of liis father. Earl Godwin ; and that of Crowliurst, the limits i^f which very likely extended beyond the then wild scene of the liattle, belonged to Harold himself. The tourist may now proceed to the aljbey. With his mind " forcibly carried back to the time when the battle-field was strewn with dead warriors, and then to the period when sallow monks cooled their shorn lieads jierhajis under the verj' oaks that now shadow us, ho is beginning to feel that Hume and Smollet's History is really and truly not a fiction." {Ilouii'-liitid Word>i, ix.) He M'ill find, however, that, like other 236 Route V2.~Battlc Abhe^. Sect. II. liistoiic relics of Old Eiigliiiid, Battle Abbey "opens only with silver keys.' Tlie pilgrimage, moreover, must be made in the company of some dozens of visitors, congenial or otherwise. "We are by no means at liberty to hold communion with the spirits of llie past that dwell among tlie lichens and the mould," but are driven onward iu the regular train. Without at all desiring, like Mrs. Elizabeth Carter, who visited Battle toward the end of the last century, "to have the ground i)lauti'd with yew and cy- press, to turn the proi>rietor out of ins usurped abode, and restore the screech-owls and ravens," some al- teration in the present arrangements is much to be wished for. " The soil has its owner, and ma}' his crops be abmidaut ! Imt to all of us lielong the associations that draw pilgrims to it." {^Household Words.^ The " Abbey of St. Martin of the place of the battle " (Domesday), the " token and pledge of the royal crown," as it was called by its monks, rose on the very spot where the Saxon standard fell, within 10 years after the Conquest. William Faber, a Norman knight who had heard the Conqueror's vow on Telham Hill, and who had afterwards made him- self a monk in the Benedictine abbey of Mannoutier, was intrusted with the work ; in order to which he brought over with him 4 monks of great re])utation from his Norman abbey. William endowed it richly, marking a " Icuga " about the aliljey — a circle of 3 miles diameter — ex- empt from all customs and domina- tion. Special rights and jtrivileges were conferred on the abbot, who had the liberty of releasing from punishment " any condemned thief, robber, or other criminal " he should chance to meet anywhere throughout England. The abbey itself was not consecrated until lOOf), when William Kufus, accompanied by Ab}). Anschu and a great train of ])relates, visited it for the purj)ose. Its great i)rivi- leges, and especially its freedom from episcopal jurisdiction, involved the abbey in peqietual disputes with the bishops and archbishops, which in- deed make up the principal part of its history until the cUssolution, when the house was found in no good con- dition. It was, wrote Commissioner Layton, " the worst that ever I see in all other places ; whereas I see specially the blake sort of dy vellyshe monks." The annual value of Battle was then 8G0Z., marking it as among the wealthiest abbeys of England. It was granted to Sir Anthony Browne, the proxy of Henry VIII. on his marriage with Anne of Cleves. It contuiued in the hands of liis de- scendants — the Lords Montacute of Cowdray (which place had also be- longed to Sir Anthony Browne), until sold by the fourth Lord ]\Ionta- eute to Sir Thomas Webster, from whose descendant it has recently passed to Lord Harry Vane. The abbey buildings were con- verted into a mansion-house by Sir Anthony Browne, and far more has been jireserved than the " few found- ation-stones in the midst of a swamp," which, as Dr. Lappeidjerg is pleased to assert, are the only visible monu- ments of the Conquest. The [jute-honw, fronting the street, is for the most part late Dee., and proliably the work cif Abbot Bethynge, who obtained a licence to fortify and embattle his monastery, 12 Edw. III., its position near the sea rendering such precautions not rmnecessary. " A small portion of the gate-house front shows ndjl.)le masonry and a Norman buttress" {Ilusseij), which must have been united with the new work. The Dec. part is very beauti- ful, and one of the best specimens of the time. The long range of building, rt., was for some time used as tlie town-hall, but has been allowed to fall into ruin. The house nearest the gateway W. was the ancient Jiospital for pilgrims, and is still called tlu' Almonry. Passing within the gate- Sussex. Route 12.— Battle Abbey. 237 way, the visitor fiiuls himself in front of tlie present dwening-house, and may tirst inspeet the hull, whieli, witli a vaulted room adjoining, is the only i^art shown. The ahhatial hall is interesting solely on its own ac- count, and in spite of its many decorations, among which is Wil- lihis' large iiicture of the Battle of Hastings. Tlie adjoining room is tliought to have been the Locntorium or " parlour," in wliich strangers were received. Many other portions of the abbey (not shown) are com- prised in the present house. A morning-room, commimicatuig witli the dais of the hall, was probably one of the abbot's private apart- ments, and retains its original win- dow. A corridor and bed-rooms have been formed from tlie dormitorj", and below is a vaulted room called the " Beggar's Hall." From the hall, having coutrilnited to the hoard of its ever watchful dragon, the visitor should pass to the raised terrace, S., traditionally called the " banquctiug-room,'' and having watch-turrets at the W. end. From tliis point there are good views over all the country, S., and most of tlic locahties of the battle may be made out. The sea is here visible, as is Beachey Head, tlie English head- land wliich first greeted the Con- queror as he neared the coast (see Pevensey). The beauty of the site, " noble above the level of abbeys," ^^Tote Walpole, is also en- dent from here. Below the terrace are 8 vaults, " magazines for pron- sious and fuel " {Peniuuit). From the E. end the refectory is visiljle, but not accessible. In order to reach it, the stranger must place himself in the hands of the gardener, who will lead him round to tlie E. front of tlic building. This lie should first notice. It was the internal wall of the W. side of the cloisters, and displays 9 arches filled with Perp. tracery. On the N. side of the cloi.sters, stretching over what is now the flower-gaidtii, wai< the Clnirrli of tlie monastery, of which the fomidations of the E. end were laid open in 1817. They still remain uncovered, and show the apse of the crj^:)t, with the bases of its massy cohunns. This spot is the most interesting within the abbey-walls, for it is exactly that on wliich Harold himself fell, and where the Saxon standard was erected. Faber and the monks of Blarmoutier had at first selected another site for the abbey, representing the want of water on the actual field of battle ; but "V\'^ilham rephed that, if God spared his life, wine should be more lilenty in that monastery than water elsewhere ; and the founda- tions were accordingly marked o\it as originally intended, the high altai' of the cli. being fixed on the spot where Harold had fallen. At this altar William subsequently oftered the sword he had carried in the battle, and the robe worn at liis coronation. Here the visitor may return for a moment to that old world of strife and expiation, — if brown liats, parasols, and wide- awakes will allow him to forget the liresent. S. of the ch. is the refectory, with lancet windows and strongly but- tressed walls. It is E. E., and be- neath it are vaulted rooms of the same date, the height of wliich varies owing to the slope of the ground from the N. The appropriation of these rooms is uncertain : the largest, supported on 3 central pillars, has been called, and perhaps with reason, the Scriptorium, or library. Among the few books found here by Leland on his visitation was Prior Clement ofLlanthony's " hbellus " 'On the Spiritual "Wings and Feathers of the Cherubim.' Some remains at the S. angle of the morning-room are probably tliose of an oratory attached to the abbot's apartments. The fiimous roll of Battle Abbey, 238 Tioufe 12.— Battle. — Hastings. Sect. ir. said to be the " roll-call " from wliicli William's knights were called over on Telham Hill the morning of the battle, was hung up in the monastery, and after the dissolution is said to have been removed to Cowdray, where it perished in the great fire. The most accurate copy seems to be Leland's ; but, although the roll may be accepted as a good list of Norman families, it in all probability never existed until long after Normans and Saxons had settled down peacefidly all over England. The various ver- sions differ hopelessly between them- .selves. Keturning through the gatehouse, the doors of wliich are kept carefidly shut, and oi:)en to no sesames but silver ones, tlie parish Church, should next be visited. The enclosure wall of the Abbey, and of the road, has some Norm, buttresses. The cli. is Traus., with some Dec. windows (comi). Tillington and Hurstmon- ceux, also of this (Trans.) period. — JSharpe). All that is now seen is later than the first eh. here, which was built for the use of the town, temp. Hen. I., by the Abbey, to which it was subject. There are some fragments of stained glass, among which is the effigy of Ha- mond, the last alibot. In the chancel is the stately tomb of Sir Anthony Browne, tlie first lay lord of Battle. It is of wlute marble, with some traces of foi'mer splendours in gold and colour. Beneath its canopy are tlie efHgies of Sir Anthony and his wife Alice ; the date of Sir Anthony's d<'atli is left lilank — a proof that the tomb was erected by himself during liis lifetime. On the floor are o Brasses: — John Wythines, Dean of Battle, d. 1G15 ; Robert Acre, also dean ; and a knight in plate-armour (142o). In the nave is a half-length brass of Sir W. Arnold (1435). Tlie parish of Battle retains traces of its ancient privileges. The lay al)bot (now Lord 11. Vane) appoints .'I decoi, who has full power within the old jurisdiction, still free from that of the bishop. After inspecting the scenes of an- cient warfare, the tourist may, if he pleases, make inquiries as to the resources of modern. The great powder-mills of Battle are among the largest in tlie kingdom. They lie S.W. of the town, and the walk to them through the woods is very pic- tm-esque. The scenery round Battle is so pleasing, although without any very striking features, that the stranger will do well to explore it. A walk to or from Hastings (7 m.) will be found far from unpleasant ; and a very interesting drive may be taken by Ashhiirnham and JJurstmonceiix, returning to Hastings by rail either from the Pevensey or Hailsham sta- tions. Tins may be well done in a long summer-day. There is much woodland about Battle, although the oaks are not fine, owing, as Cobbett has pointed out, to the shallowness of the clay. The neiglibourhood is famous for its wild flowers. Through tliis scenery the railway passes to St. Leonard's, G m., and then to Hastings, 1 m. TIasthtqs (Pop., including St. Leo- nard's, 17,621) {Hotels: Albion; Castle — best ; Swan ; at St. Leonard's the Victoria) is by far the most picturesquely situated watering-place on the coast of Sussex ; and in this resjieet Dover alone can compete with it on that of Kent. The old town climbed one of the narrow val- leys that here open in the sand-rock toward the sea, and was overhung by the castle on the western cliffs. The inr/ termination marks it as one of the earliest Saxon settlements (of tlie Hrestingas, whose name occurs in many other counties), for its foundation by Hasten, the great Danish sea-king, has been entirely disproved. Its ships and sailors (l)utsekarls) were numerous and im- portant under the Confessor, when Sussex. Route 12. — Hastings. 239 the town became a member of the Cinque Ports. Tlie arrival of the Conqueror is the first great event in iti liistor}^ (see post). Hastings hing continued in great repute for its ship- building, for which the neighbourhood of the great Sussex forests atfordcd ample material. As a port, however, it had not the early iuqioitaiice nor the wealth of Rye or Winelielsea, and consequently escaped many of the French burnings to wliich tliey were .subjected. Like other towns on this coast, it gradually declined, and had become a mere fisliing village when, toward the end of the last century, Dr. Baillie began to recommend his patients to resort to Hastings. From tliat time it has steadily increased ; and St. Leonard's, tlien a small vil- lage more than a mile distant, is now joined to it by a succession of ter- races. As a watering-place, Hastings holds a middle station between the universal mixture of Brighton and the resorts of Mrs. Jarley's " general jiublic " at Margate and Ramsgate. The climate of Hastings varies greatly, owing to the situation of the town. The old town, and all the lower range of houses reacliing as far as Pelham Place, are thoroughly sheltered from the N. and I*]., and are " well suited to the most delicate pulmonary invalids during the win- ter and spring." {Maclntess.) The higher parts of the town enjoy a climate far more bracing, but still milder than tbat of the East Kent watering places. St. Leonard's is in some respects better situated than either, since it is quite as warm as the lower part of Hastings, witliout being overhung by the clitf. Very ample details for Hastings and its neighbourhood will be found in a volunre entitled ' JI((s(iiiij.<, Fast and Present ' (Hastings, Diplock), to which we have been much indebted. The Castle is the first point of in- terest in Hastings. ' Its area, now liiid out as a pleasure-ground, covei-s tlie extreme point of the AV. cUti". A small payment is required from visitors. The plan seems to have been imusually irregular, owing to the cliff, which descends sharply on the S. side, and rendered all fortifi- cation there mineccssary. The main entrance was on the N. side, where the groove for the portcullis, and the hooks for the gate-hinges, still re- main. On the E. side are fragments of 3 semicircular towers. W., a cir- cular and square tower both remain, still of considerable height. " In the circular tower, and in other parts of the walls, are com-ses of herring-bone work." The most interesting re- mains, however, are those of the Castle Chapel, which are Tr.-Norni. Tlie stone coffins placed here were found during excavations made in 1824. In this, or an earlier chapel within the castle, Anselm conse- crated Robert Blovet Bp. of Lincoln, while William Rufns was detained here by contrary M'inds. Tlie chapel itself was independent of the castle, and was in the hands of a dean and secular canons ; a similar establish- ment, perhaps, to that which once ex- isted in the castle of Dover. Thomas a Becket was dean of this chapel, and WUliam of Wyckham held one of its canonries. Little is known of the history of tlie castle. Hastings was bestowed by the Conqueror on the Count of Eu, who may have erected the first fortress here, and in the hands of wliose descendants it remained rmtil tlie middle of the 13th cent., after which the most remarkable among the many Lords of the Honour were the dukes of Biittany, who, however, do not seem to have been admitted as castellans, the fortress being re- tained in the hands of the Crown. It is now the property of the Pelliam family. On the East Cliffs, between wliich and the castle lies the old town of Hastings, are traces of a great em- l)ankment, which has been con- sidered to mark the site of the Con- 240 Iioute 12. — Hastlinjs. Sect. II. qucror's camp Ijcfore Ids mareli npoii Battle,— " the bcifjlits ^Vllel■e till' Norman encamped him of iilil, With his bowmen and knights, And his banner all burnished with gold." Sir. Lower suggests, however, witli far more probability, that the eanip, ill wliich tlie Normans spent the night in praj^er (as they tell lis themselves, by waj" of a favouralile eoutrast with the shouts and " drinkheils " of the Saxons at Battle), was on low ground, near the site of the present railway station, and that the East Hill em- bankment was an outpost for ob- sei-vation. An exeellent \'iew of the old town is gained from this chfl:'. In very elear weather the opposite coast of Pieardy is visible from liere, including the harbour of St. A'alery, from whence the Conqueror's expedition set sail. In the summer of 1797, owing to a remarkable atmospheric refraction, the whole line of coast from Calais to Diej)pe became distinctly visible, not only from tlie clilf, but from the shore below, and appeared as near as if seen from a vessel a short dis- tance off tlie coast. {Fldl. Trans., vol. 88.) Tlie Chuirhes of Hastings are quite Tiuinteresting. AJI Sainfs. stands pic- ' turesquelyutthehead ofthe old town, and is mainly Perp. In its register for 1619 ajuiears the baptism of Titus Gates, the infamous, who was born here, and whose fatlier was subsequently rector of All Saints. St. Clement's, in the High Street, is also Perp. Tlie 2 balls tixed to the tower are memorials of the combined French and Dutch fleets which fired oil the town in 1720. There are here two Brasses : Thos. Weekes, died 1.5G3, and John Biirlcv, IGOl. The new Church of St. Marij Mkj- dalene was consecrated in 1852, and is good. PerhajJS the original of Lady Whittlesea's Chapel, in which the Rev. Charles Hoiieyman displayed himself, may be found in that called " St. Mary in the Castle," and situated in the centre of Pelliam Crescent. Wine-vaults run back under it, and are entered from the street below. At the Priory Farm (1. of the road leading to the station) is a fragment of wall marking the site of a house of Augustinian canons. There are a few wooden houses in the old town worth notice. A strong wall, defending the seaward entrance to the town, ran from the Castle Hill to the E. cliff; some por- tions of it still exist in Bom-ne Street and George Street. Hastings can boast of no dis- tinguished sous, but has received many remarkable visitors. Here Lord Byron wrote, Aug. 1814, "I have been swimming and eating turbot, and smuggling neat lirandies and silk handkerchiefs, and hsteniug to my friend Hodgson's raptures about a pretty wife elect of his, and walking on cliffs, and tumbling down hills, and making the most of the dolce far nieiife for the last fortnight." Campbell lived for 5 years at St. Leonard's, and liis 'Address to the Sea ' was Avritten here. Charles Lamb, htiving lieen " "dull at Worth- ing one summer, tluller at Brighton another, and dullest at Eastbourne a tlurd," " did dreary penance " during another at Hastings. "It is ' a place of fugitive resort, an heterogeneous assemblage of sea- mews and stockbrokers, Amphitrites of the town, and misses that coquet with the ocean. If it were what it WTis in its primitive shape it were something. I coidd abide to dwell with Meseheck ; to assort with fisher swains and smugglers. I like a smuggler. He is the only honest tliief." (Essays of Ella). Smugglers are now rare at Hastings as else- where. Caves said to have been used by them exist on the W. or Castle Hill. They are known as St. Clement's Caves, and are occasion- ally lighted up i\n- the inspectio-i of curious visitors. Sussex. Roati 12. — Hastings — Xcighboiu-hooJ. 241 St. Leonard's, the Bclgravia of Hastings, lias a long row of good houses (the Marina) adjoining the shore ; with subscription gardens and archery ground stretching up tlic hiU behind them. The Victoria hotel was occupied during the ■winter of 1848 by tlie exdiing LomsPhiUppe. On its site formerly existed a rtjck called the "Concpieror'sdiniug-table," at which William is said to have dined on the day of his lamling. This dinner finds a place in the Bayeux Tapestry, but with better apphances than seaside rocks. The true site was probably nearer Pevcnsey. The neighbour] lood of Hastings is rich in beautiful walks ; and diives and railway excursions may be made to embrace a great part of East Su.ssex. Wallis to be reconuneuded are, — over the E. hill to Ecclesbounie (1 m.), where a narrow valley opens on the sea. The return, when the tide is well out, may be by the beach. To Fairlighf Place and the Lover's Seat, one of the great Uous of Hastings. ' Fairlight Place, l^ m., is best reached Ity the main road, whence some fields open toward the glen that descends to the sea. This is very picturesque, with thickly wooded sides and a tapestry of wild flowers. At the head of the glen is the drippincj irell, over- hung by an enormous beech-tree, and bright with the stars of the golden .saxifrage. The Lovers' Seat, is a ledge of rock, a little way do^vu the clilf, 8. of the glen. It owes its name to the stolen interviews of the captain of a revenue cutter with a Kentish heiress, ending, as may lie recorded for the benetit of future occupiers of the seat, in a happy marriage. The return to Hastings may be along the clitf, making the walk altogether al)out 5 m. — Fairlight Oiiirrk (2 m. from Hastings) was erected in 1845, when the old ch. was taken down. Behind it stretches up FairJicjht Down, 599 ft., the liighest ground in this part of Sussex. The sea-view extends from the S. Foreland to Beachy Head ; and inland is very rich and beautifid. The high ridge, forming a continuation of the downs, is that along which the Conqueror's army marched to Telham Hill, visible over Battle.— OZ J i?o«v {'1 m.) is a so-called waterfall, wliich now, how- ever, roars "gently an 'twere any sucking dove." "Probably no one ever visited Old Roar ^vithout being told that this was not the season for the water, and that it was never known to be so dry as at present." {Lost Brooch.) The situation, how- ever, is pictiu'csque, and the walk to it very pleasant. Part of Ore Place, close by, is said to have been built by John of Gaimt. Ore Cluu'ch is luiinteresting. Within drivifs of Hastings art — C'roiv- liurst Church, 5m. It stands pleasanlly in a valley, surrounded by trees. The nave was rebuilt 1794. In the tower window are considerable remains of stained glass. Crowhurst was lontr held by the Pelhams ; and in the tower door-case, and the tracery of the windows above, occuis the well- known Pelliam Buckle, the achieve- ment adopted in memory of the takingof theFrencliKing at Poictiers, an exploit in which Sir John Pelliam assisted. A wooden buckle, probably a liart of the old screen, is also nailed to the front of the gallery. In the churchyard is a noble yew of un- known antiquity, 27 ft. in circum- ference at 4 ft. from the ground. S. of the ch. are the remains of an ancient manor-house of late E. E. character. It was a small parallelogram with a porch ; and contained only 3 rooms, a vaulted ground floor, a large room above, and one over the porch, perhaps an orator}^ The E. window of the large room has very good mouldings. (Comp. the earlier Norm, house at Ch. Ch., Hants, the house at West I Tarring in this coimtj% and Little j Wenluim Hall, Suffolk, hke this of ; the 13th cent.) It seems uncertain whether the present remains con- _ stituted the whole house, or whether 242 Route 12. — Crowhumf. — Wentfidd. Sect. II. there was a hall on the S. side, in wliich case the existing house would be only the solar, or private chamber. (Hudson Turner.) The biiilder of Crowhiu-st is thought to have been Walter de Scotuey, owner of the manor temp. Hen. III. He was chief steward of De Clare, Earl of Glou- cester, and was executed in 1259, on the charge of having poisoned the Earl and his brother. {Suss. Arch. Coll.) Crowliurst Place (T. Papillon, Esq.) was long the residence of the Pel- hams. A longer drive will be to Winchel- sea, by" Guestling and Icklesham. Guestlincj C]iurcli\\h m.) is mainly Trans. -Norm, and interesting. In the vestry is a tine old "Flanders Chest" very richly pannelled. Broom- ham Park, adjoining, is an ancient seat of the Ashburnhams. At Mux- field in tliis parish is an old timbered house worth notice. Maxfield is the birthplace of Greg. Martin, translator of the Rlieims version of the Bible. — For Iclilesham and Winchelsea, see Rte. 1.3. From Pelt, a short distance S. of Guestling, a road leads over Chick Hill, with a wide view, to Cliff End, the point at which the sandstone of Hastings suddenly sinks into tlie level, leaving an open, marshy coast luitil the chalk reappears at Folk- stone. The soUtude of Clitf End is striking ; and the scene, wild and picturesque, will repay a visit. The Hastings Sand, of which the cliffs consist, is the formation which in various strata extends over the valley of the Weald, between the N. and S. chalk ranges. At Hastings the rock is white and friable, and re- sembles the blocks on the common at Tunbridge Wells. Its beds abound in remains of fishes ; and fragments of th(! Iguanodon have occasionally been found. This white sand rock is one of the lower beds of the forma- tion, r(>sting immediately oti the Tilgate clay, in which Dr. ManteU first discovered some of the greater saurians. A still longer cxciu'sion may bo made to Podiam Castle (13 in.), a distance which will be slightly in- creased if, as may easily be done, Brede and Northiam are taken in the way. The return may be by Sedles- couibe. Very ample notices of Bredo and Noithiam will be found in ' Ilasthigs Past and Present,' of wliich only a small portion can be inserted here. The Church of Westfield (Gm.) is E. E., but of no great interest. That of Brede (1 m.j is more important. The chantry S. of the chancel is attaclied to Brede Place ; and was enlarged by Sir GoddardOxenbridge toward the beginning of the 16th century. French workmen are said to have been employed by him ; of which the flaml>oyant traceries, the foliage over the entrance door and in the capitals of the arch-piers, Ivere the result. All these exhibit pecu-^ liarities unlike the English work of the time. The monument of Sir Go.ldard Oxenbridge, d. 1537, dis- plays liis effigy in armour, and is in Caen stone, like the additions to the chantry. The local folklore respect- ing Sir Goddard is remarkable. He was a cannibal giant, especially fond of young chikken ; invulnerable by metal, and only to be killed by a wooden saw, with which instrument some of his neighbours, having made him dnmk, succeeded in sawing him in half. Brede Place, now a farm-house, on the side of a hill, at the foot of which a trout-stream "huddles" along, lies 1 m. E. of the ch. It ] dates mainly from the end of the 14th cent., but has some additions made by Sir Goddard Oxenbridge early in the IGth. The first recorded possessors of Brede were the Atte- fords, in whose hands it continued until early in the reign of Henry 1 IV., when it passed to the Oxen- I bridges. The Aitejord, or earlier Sussex. Route 12. — Bridaoall. — Northiam. 243 portion of the house, is of sandstone, and the rest brick. Tlie great hall, and the apartment S. of it, deserve careful notice ; beyond was the chapel, two stories in height, but entered through an ante-chapel, of one only. Tlie Caen stone work and the window traceries tliroughout .should be compared with those in the Oxenbridge chantry. The view from the top of the house is tine. Brede Place was long a favourite resoii of smugglers, who managed to produce strange noises in the house and al)Out it, thus scaring away the peasantry. K bridge crossing the .stream near the house is still called Groaning Bridge. In GilhjWood, on the tm-npike road to Tije, near the point at which it is crossed in proceeding to Northiam, is a deep gill (guenle) or ravine, like that of Old Eoar, very picturesque and worth visiting. On the same road, 1 m. toward Udimore, is Great Sowdens Wood, I., in which is a large heroniy ; 400 nests have been counted here. Uditnore, 1 m., was so named, says tradition, because, while the ch. was building on a ditierent site, a spirit nightly removed the stones, crying "O'er the mere ! 0"er the mere ;" of which Udimore is a corruption. In proceeding to Northiam, 5 m., remark, rt. (1 m. from Northiam), the Well-House, an old timbered Iniilding, dating from the middle of the lUth cent. ; a good specimen of a yeoman s residence. It has a large hall, now used as a store-room, with a central fireplace. Beyond is Brickwall Park, and opposite, 1., an old farm-house, said to have been the birthplace of Abp. Frewen in 1588. Briclcn-all (T. Frewen, Esq.) is only to be seen when the family are absent. It was purchased in IStiG by Stephen Frewen, alderman of Lon- don, from a family named White who had long possessed it. Stephen Frewen had been born at Northiam, where his father was rector ; mani- festing strong puritanical tendencies in the names of his other children — Thankful and Aceeijted, of wliom the first became Secretary to the Lord-Keeper Coventry, and the second Abp. of York. Accepted was an eager Royalist, and conse- quenlly denoiuiced by Cromwell, who set 1000/. on his" head. On the restoration he was appointed to the archbishopric. Brickwall House is Elizabethan, with some additions and decorations temp. Clias. II. The N. front remains unaltered ; the rest is of the second period. The chimneys are richly ornamented. The house contains some interesting portraits — Accepted Frewen the arch- l)ishop, and his brother Stephen, by Gerard, Loest ; their father, tlie rector of Northiam (3/«r/.; Gerrard); Lord Keeper Coventry and his second wife (Jansen\ i")resents to his secretary, Tliankful Frewen ; Lady Guldeforde (Holbein). On the staircase are Queen Elizabeth's green silk shoes, which she took oft' under the oak on the village green (see j^o^O : Abp. Frewen's wheel barometer; and a curious finger-organ. The gardens are pleasantly old fiishioned. Front- ing the house is a large oak, IS ft. in circumference, the single survivor of an avenue the width of the house, jjlanted from acorns oft' Queen Eliza- beth's oak, immediately after her visit in 1573. Northiam Clnirch was much en- larged in 1835. 'J'he Tower is the most interesting portion — Norm. — and " deserving of attentive exami- nation, as it presents some features which maij i.idicate very consider- able antiquity" {Hiafseij). The coign stones should be remarked. Tiiero are two Brasses: Nich. Tuftoii, 1538, and Eobert Benford, rector, 1518. The Mausoleum belongs to tlie Frewen family, and was erected in 1846. The Church House dates apparently from the time of Henry vni. Dixtcr in this parish is an old •J-i4 Route 12. — Bodiarn Castle. Sect. II. tiinlicrc'cl liouso, which would pro- hably repay examination. Tufton I'lare, a largo old farm-house, was the cradle of the Tuftons, afterwards Earls of Thanet. Adjoining the churchyard, on the village green, is the fragment of Queen Elizabeth's Oak, 2i ft. in cir- cumference. Under it, Aug. 11, 1.573, the great Queen dined in her way from Hempstead to Kye. Here she changed her shoes, those she took oft' being carefully preserved as relics. Her INIajesty's dinner was sup- plied by Mr. George Bishopp, whose very ancient timbered house stands opposite the oak, and should be noticed. Bodtam Castle, about 2 m., lies on the opposite bank of the Eother. The manor became the projierty of Sir Edward Dalyngrudge, temp. Edw. III., l)y his marriage with the heiress of the Wardenx. Sir Edward was jjreseut at Crecy and Poietiers, and afterwards became a success- ful plunderer throughout northern France. He obtained letters patent for building a castle here in 138(3 flttli Rich. II.), from which period the building dates. The male line of Dalyngrudge soon became extinct, and Bodiam passed to the Lewknor family, in whose liands it remained until the civil war, when Sir Lewis Lewknor became a hot royalist, and his castles, Bodiam and Amberley, were dismantled by Waller's troops. The ruins have since passed through many hands ; and are now the pro- j)ertv of A. E. Fuller, Esq., of Rose Hill! The castle is surrounded with a deep moat filled with water. It is nearly square, with a round tower at each angle ; and square towers in the centre of each side except the N., where is the great gateway. This is approached by a causeway, once de- fended by a liarbacan tower and drawbiidge. Tlie escutcheons over tbe main entrance are those of Bo- <liam (the Norman possessor who held from the Coinit of Eu), Dalpi- grndge, and "VVardeux. The arrange- ments for defence shoidd especially be noticed. Tlie outer portcullis is still visible, and witliin the vaidted passage are traces of two more, in- tended to divide the space mto two rooms. Instead of bosses, the ceilings have funnel - shaped perforations, serving as macliicmdis, through winch melted lead might be poured down on the assailants. Witliin the area are the remains of liaU, chapel, kitchen, and other apartments ; these are carried round the main walls, leaving an open court in the centre. The kitchen is marked 1iy its 2 large fireplaces and its oven, all of which are constructed of tUes. From the S.E. corner tower a stair- case led to an upper series of rooms, lighted from the court ; i^erhaps the ladies' apartments. On the Vj. side was the chapel. The greater portion of these inner buildings are probably of later date than the castle walls. Hurstmonceux, although consider- ately later, may be compared through- out. Bodiam Clnirch, 1^ m., is Dec. and E. E. The original roof extend.s over lioth nave and aisles. The return to Hastings, 12 m., should be through Sedlescovih, where is an E. E. ch. with some Perp. ad- ditions. The font cover (Per}i.) deserves notice. In this parish Roman coins have been foimd in an ancient cinder-field, one among many other proofs that the Sussex ironstone was not unworked by the " terraruin Domini." Sussex. Route 13. — Hastings to Ashford. 241 ROUTE 13. HASTINGS TO ASHFORD. {South-E astern Eailway, Ashford and Hastings Brunch.) After losing sight of the ragged towers of Hastings Castle there is little rt. 01- 1. to interest the tourist, initU he reaches 9 ni. Whtclielsea, one of the most singular " triumijlis of time" to be found throughout England. Old Winchelsea having been destroyed by encroachments of the sea, the new town was foiuided on liighcr ground by Edward I. New Winchelsea was abandoned in its tiuu ; and is now a village, with the remauis of ancient grandem' scattered about it. It lies about a mile from the station. The visitor should be told that no con- veyance meets the trains, nor is it possilDle to procm-e one in the ueigh- bourliood. The site of Old Winchelsea (now submerged) was about 3 m. S.E. of the new town. It was a low, flat island (Winchel's-ea) only connected with the land on the W. side. Here the Conqueror lauded on his return from Normandy to commence the siege of Exeter ; and here landed 2 of the knights on their way to the murder of Becket. It was, like its successor, one of the "more noble members" of the Cinque Ports ; but had been granted by tlie Confessor to the Norman Abbey of Fecamp, \_Kent & Sussex.'] with wliich monastery Henry III. exchanged it for the manor of Chelten- ham. The flrst recorded inmidation took place in 1236 ; others succeeded m 1250, when " 300 houses and some chm-ches were drowned." Winchel- sea had held (hke the other Cinque Ports) to the party of Simon de Montfort ; and made some resist- ance to the royal authority even after Simon's death at Evesliam. It >vas taken, however, by Prince Edward, and the mass of the iidia- bitants were massacred. After this desolation, and a linal inundation wliich efiectually drowned tlie town on the eve of St. Agatha, 1287, the site was removed by Edward I. to the hill above. In tlus old town was born liobert de Winchelsea, after- wards Abp. of Canterbury, who, after opposing Edward I. in the matter of Church revenues, solemnized his mar- riage with the Prmcess Margaret of France. (See Canterbury.) The fitness of the site for the new town is at once seen on chmbing the wooded hill of Higham on which it stands, rising sharply out of the marshes, and looking across them to its sister acropolis at Eye. On the top of the hill, one of the ancient gates — now leading to notliing — is passed ; this is " PiiJe-weU " or " the land" gate, and on it is a sliield mth the word "Helde," the name, it is supposed, of the Mayor of Whichelsea at the time of its construction. Some distance beyond, appears the ch., with the relics of tlie old town linger- ing about it. At the time New Winchelsea was built, tlie rock on which it stands was washed by the tides E. and N., and the harbour was one of first rate im])ortance, the Portsmouth and Spithead of its day. The town, like others foiuided hi Gascony and else- where by Edward I., was built on a regular plan, and subdivided into 39 squares or quarters, an arrangement resembling that of a Eoman town, N 2-L6 Route i; Winchelsea. Sect. II. and wliich was also found by the Spaniards existing in Mexico. The town was protected by the natural form of the ground except on the W. side, where is a deep trench or moat ; and had 3 gates. It traded largely in wines and other " commodities," besides being the harbour from wliielr English troops constantly embarked for the French wars. It continued prosperous, notwithstanding constant assaiUts from enemies by sea, until the middle of the 15th cent, when the sea rapidly retired ; and on Eliza- beth's visit in 1573, although the town itself was still full of stately buildings, and the nuxgistrates ma- naged to make so brave a show that lier Majesty was pleased to call it a "little London," there were not more tlian (jU households remaining. Win- chelsea never recovered ; the greater part of the town disai^peared alto- gether ; and the grey old rehcs that still survive have a strangely spectral cliaracter, Uke owls seen by dayhght. The assaults from foreign enemies no doubt greatly injured the town. 8000 French landed liere in 1359 during the absence of Edward III. in France ; set fire to the town, and killed many of the inhalsitants, who were assemljled in the ch. at mass. The king, greatly incensed, at once turned his arms against Paris ; but in the mean time Winchelsea was again taken and sacked by the French navy, luuler the Comte de St. Pol. In 1377 they again ajipeared off the coast ; took Kye, and would have taken Winchelsea, had it not been bravely defended by the Abbot of Battle. " The French let fly tlieir great guns," says old Fuller, " and I take it to be the first and last time they were ever planted by a foreign enemy on the English con- tinent ; and these roared so loud that they lost their voice, and have been (blessed be God) silent ever since." But Winelielsea was again taken by John de Viemie in 1380, and it is supposed that the nave of the re- maining ch. was burnt on this occa- sion. Tlie town was attacked and fired for the last time by the French in the reign of Henry VI. about 1449. August 29, 1350, a battle took place ofl' Winchelsea between the Spanish fleet returning from Flan- ders, and that of Edward III., who was present in person. The Black Prince and John of Gaunt were also in the English fleet, the latter too young to bear arms ; but the king, says Froissart, " had him on board because he much loved lum." After Edward had cruised for 3 days between Dover and Calais, the Sf)aniards came in siglit. They lost 14 ships in the action, which was " well and hardly fouglit." The rest fled. The khig and his nobles disembarked at Win- chelsea in the evening, and rode to the mansion (jjrobably Sir WiUiam de Echiugliam's at Udimore) where Queen Philippa waited him — " miglitily rejoiced to see her lord and children." Her attendants had watched the whole of the battle from the coast. The first point of interest in Win- elielsea is the CJiurcli, of St. Thomas (tlie arehbisliop, and not the apostle), of which the chancel with its side aisles only remains, the nave having been destroyed, probal^ly by John do Vienne in 1380. Tlie wliole is early Dec. (circ. 1300), and the most im- portant biulding of this period m Sussex. The chancel, with its sediha, was restored in 1850. The windows, connected by an inner arcade with blind arches, are filled with a tracery " of foreign rather than English cha- racter" (Cooper), and resemble those of Chartham in Kent. The leafage throughout the ch., executed during the very best period of " natm-ahsm," deserves the most careful attention, and the corbel heads at the spring of the arches are not less curious. The modern flooring tiles were copied from a few of the original ones which Sussex. Route 13. — Winchehea. 247 still remain in the chancel. Through- out the ch. Caen stone and Sussex marble were used in judicious con- trast. In the S. aisle was the Alard chantry, originally the chajiel of St. Nicholas. Here are the 2 Alard tombs, ranking " among the noisiest conceptions of this period in the kingdom." The earliest is that of Gervase Alard, Admiral of the Cinque Ports in 1303 and 1306. He was living at the time the ch. was built, and probably one of the benefactors to it. (Cooper.) His efSgy is cross- legged, and the hands clasp a small heart. Remark the manner in which the mad is thrown back from them, an arrangement worthy of Donatello. The lion at liis feet, half risuig yet still trodden down, turns liis head growling. In the canoi^y above is a grotesque head with oak-sprays springhig from the mouth, admirably designed. At the angles of the canopy are the heads of (apparently) Edward I. and Queen Eleanor. The second tomb is probably that of Steplien Alard, grandson of Gervase, and Admiral of the Cmque Ports in 1324. It is still very fine, but not equal to the carher one, wliich, however, it greatly re- sembles. Remark the head -with bats'-ears, above, and the oak leafage springing fi-om them. The canopies of both these tombs deserve carefid study. It is just possible that they may be somewhat later than the effigies themselves. Their position, under the windows, wliich are partly blocked by them, is miusual. At the up2:ier end of the aisle are the sedilia and piscmaj of the chantiy. In the N. aisle are 3 monuments ; a kniglit in mail armoiu-, a lady, and a young man in a long robe. These are all tliouglit to have been mem- bers of the Alard tVtmily. The tombs are all canopied ; and a comparison of the designs with those in the S. aisle will show that they are pro- bably by the same artist. On the chancel floor is the brass of an ecclesiastic. The porch without the ch. is a later addition. Over it are the arms of Winchelsea. The triple gable of the chanci 1, ivy covered, grovips sin- gularly with the ruined transept ad- jouiing. These fragments are of the same date as the chancel. Under a large tree at the side of this ch. Wesley preached, on his visit to " that poor skeleton of ancient Winchelsea," in 1790. There were 2 other churches in Wmchelsea ; St. Giles's, and a second of wliich no fragment remains. The Friars (E. Stileman, Esq.), not far from the ch., shoidd next be visited. The public are only ad- mitted on Mondays. The ancient house of the Franciscans here was pulled down about 1819, and the present building erected ; but a part of the ruined cha2:)el of the Virgin stiU remains in the groiuids. This is the choir, termuiating in an apse, and entered l>y the original arch, which is veiy striking. It is somewhat, though perhaps not much, later than St. Thomas's Church ; and is very pic- turesquely situated. Towards the end of the last century the Friars was the residence 'of 2 remarkable liighwiiy- meu, George and Joseph Weston. They lived here under assumed names and, wliilst rol)bing the country in all diiections, enjoyed the Inghest reputation at Winchelsea, one of tliem being aiipointed churchwarden. They were apprehended here, after robbing the Bristol mail, and one of them was subsequently executed. Of the house of the Dominicans here no fragment remains. The court-house and gaol, N. of the churchyard, are ancient rehcs, but of no great interest. Besides the Pipe- well gate already noticed, the New Gate, W., and the Strand Gate, half way up the hiU looking toward Eve, 248 PiOute 13. — Lye. Sect. II. also remain. Few remains are more strildng than these stately gates in the midst of rough lanes and green tields. At the Strand Gate Ed- ward I. nearly lost his life soon after the town was built. At this point it was fortified by bulwarks of earthwork, along which the king was riding, and looking at his fleet below, when his horse, frightened by a windmill, leapt clear over the bid- wark. All within gave up the king for dead ; but the horse, after slip- ping a considerable distance, did not fall ; and Edward rode safely back through the gate. Icldesham Church (about 1 m. W. of Winchelsea) is good Norm, and deserves a visit. The nave pillars have enriched capitals, and the S. aisle 3 early circidar-headed windows. The E. window is early Dec. This ch., dedicated to St. Nicholas, has been carefully re- stored." Beyond it, on White Hart Hill, is a striking view looking over Eye toward Dover. The walk or drive from Winchelsea to Rye, about 5 m., is not to be com- mended on the score of beauty, since the road passes through the salt marshes. On the shore, about half way (but Ij'ing off the road), are the remains of Ckimher Castle, one of tliose small fortresses Hke Deal, Walmer, and Sandown, built by Henry VIII. for the defence of the coast. Like its Kentish brothers, it has a central tower, surrounded by smaller ones, which are comiected l)y curtains. It is perhaps more com- pletely in its original condition than either of the others. It was dis- mantled in 1642. The sea, which once washed its walls, has now re- tired to some distance. Beyond Camber Castle, on this road, the tourist wiU gain the best \aew of 13 m. from Hastings by rail, Bije (Pop. SOOO— Inns: Cinrpie Port Arms ; George ; Red Lion), itself a contemporary of Old Winchelsea ; and therefore far more ancient than the new town, opposite which it stretches along on its irregular rock, from the clefts and hollows of which hang long tufts of sea-grass ; whilst above, the varied lines of its roofs and house-fronts are broken by the square tower of the ch., and by that of William de Ypres rising beyond it. The town, on entering, is found to be as old-fashioned as the most thorough-paced antiquary can desire ; and the narrow grass-grown streets, curiously winding to meet the form of the rock, sufficiently prove that the tide of modern life has passed away trom Eye, like that of the sea itself, which once flowed close up round it. It is now nearly 2 m. distant ; and the harbour of Rye, still of some importance (vessels of 200 tons can enter it), is formed by the 3 rivers Eother, Brede, and TiUingham, which here unite their waters. Eye, like Winchelsea, was granted by the Confessor to Fe'camp, and was resimied by Henry III. It became at an early i)criod one of the Cinque Ports : and like other towns on this coast, suffered much from French invasions. Pestilence and plague also visited it severely at dif- ferent times — the combined result of its crowded, sea-faring population, and of the miasma from the adjoining marshes. After the massacre of St. Bartholomew a large body of French protcstants took refuge here ; as did others on the revocation of the edict of Nantes, some of whose descend- ants still remain in the town. Elizabeth and Charles II. both visited Eye. The first and second Georges were driven into the port by stress of weather — and detained here some days — with what accompani- ments of Hanoverian ill-temper is not recorded. The sitting-room and bed-room of George II. are still shown in a liouse at the S.W. corner of IMiddle Street. The single "illustration" of Eye Sussex. Route 1 o.- -Rye. 249 is a bright one. John Fletclier, the dramatist, literary brother of Beau- mont, was born here Dec. 20, 1579. His father, Richard Fletcher, after- wards Bp. of Bristol, was at that time rector of the town. There are three points of interest in Eye — the Church, the Land Gate, and the Yjjres totver. The Church well deserves the most carefid examination. The earliest portions are the central tower ; the transepts ; and the plain circular arches opening into them from the aisles of the nave. These are early Norm. In both transepts are frag- ments of a Norm, arcade, with zigzag mouldings. The nave is Tr. Norm. The chancel has chapels on either side, into which arches N. and S. once opened ; these are now closed. Those on the S. side, and one N., are Perp. ; the rest E. E. The E. window is rich Perp., by no means improved by the Harlequin glass witli which it is at present tilled. Tlie carved mahogany altar-table is said to have been taken from one of the Armada ships, and to have lieen given to this ch. by Queen Elizabeth. Unfortu- nately for the tradition, it is certainly not older than William III. Within the rails is the brass of Thomas Hamon (1C07), six times mayor of Rye. The N. or St. Clare's Chapel is E. E., and must originally liave been very striking. On one side is a row of two-light lancet windows, interclosed, the splays of which are pierced for a gallery which passes through the wall ; on the other side arches opent'd to the main chancel. It is impossible to speak too severely of the present state of tliis beautiful chapel, desecrated, neglected, damp, and filled with ladders and fire-en- gines. Here is the monument of Allen Grebell, who " fell by the cruel stab of a sanguinary butcher, Mareli 17th, 1742." He was killed in mis- take for a IMr. Lamb, with whom the " sanguinary butcher" had quarrelled. The S. or St. Nicholas" Chapel is used as a school-room. The diver- sity of styles in this ch. is said to be owing to the destruction caused at different periods by French inva- sions. The Perp. flying buttress at the E. end, without, should not be un- noticed. The clock on the other side, the bells of which are struck by a jiair of fat golden cherubs, is .said, like the altar, fo have been the gift of Elizabeth ; but it may well be doubted if it be so old : it is con- sidered, however, to be the most ancient clock in England still ac- tually doing its work. The weight swings into the central tower. The Ypres tower, at the S. E. angle of the to\vn, was built by Wm. de Ypres, Earl of Kent temp. Stephen. It was at once a watch-tower and a tower of defence, since the sea once flowed close under the rock on which it stands. It has been restored, and now serves as the town prison. Tlie tourist should pass beyond this tower to the patli by the river, where he M'ill get a good notion of the position of Rye. The view, in clear weather, stretches over Romney Marsh to the clifts of Folkestone and Dover. The Land Gate, on tlie London road, N.E. of the town, is the only one remaining, and deserves a visit. In Mermaid Street are some remains of a storehouse built (1689) by Samuel Jeake, a member of an ancient Rye family. " The foundation stone,' he says in his Diary, " was laid precisely at xioon, mider a posi- tion of heaven" — which is probably tliat figured in a horoscope, still to be seen carved on the building. On the gable were three serpents, now destroyed. The Mermaid Inn, in this street, has some carved wains- coting. S. of the churchyard is a stone building, supposed to liave been the chapel of the Carmelites. That of 250 Route 13. — Romney Marsh. Sect. II. the Augustine Friars is on Conduit Hill and now used as a ■\vool-store. At no great distance is the house of C. Hicks, Esq., containing some curious old furniture, glass, porce- lain, and other antiquities. On a hill about h ni. from Eye is the Chiu-ch of Plmjden ; E. E. with some Norm, fragments. Near the N. door is a slab having on it two barrels, with a brewer's fork and mash-stick, crossed, and the inscription, " Hier is begraven Cornells Zoctmanns — bidt voer de ziele" (Pray for the soul). It is of tlie 15th cent. The material of the slab is the carlioniferous lime- stone of the hills near Liege, acurious proof that the "thiols " brewer had not forgotten his native country. There is another Flemish slab in All Saints Church, Hastings. Many Walloons who settled in Sussex are known to have come fi'om the district of Liege. In an old oak near Play- den churchyard was formerly fixed a tar-barrel, used as one of the chain of beacons from the coast inland. Men (2 m.) claims to have given name to the family, one of whom, Alexander Iden, Shakspeare's " gen- tleman of Kent," killed Jack Cade. Their ancient residence has dis- appeared ; but the moat may still be traced. Iden Church has some Norm, portions. Peasemarsh, on its hill, 2 m. W., is Norm, and E. E. Leaving Rye, the railway crosses the mouth of the Pother, and enters on the gi-eat level of Romney Marshes. It soon reaches 7 m. Appledore. This was the extreme E. point of the great Andi'ed"s wood, fragments of which (buried roots and branches) are still discovered in a tract called the Dowles (Sax. daelan, to divide), now forming part of the marshes. The Rother, which now passes S., anciently ran across the marshes to Romney ; and it was up this channel (from Romney) that the Danish pirates, under Hasten, i)assed, when they established themselves at Ap- pledore in 894. The Church has been greatly altered, but exliibits some unusual masonry, especially in a projection from the N. side of the nave, resembling that of Northiam, Sussex (see Rte. 12), which may be Saxon. The tower is Norm, with Perp. insertions. At Home Farm (1 m. N.W. of the ch.) are the very interesting re- mains of a late Dec. chapel. The present house is modem, bnt the chapel retains its original window- frames and its open roof with carved brackets. Below it is a vaulted cellar. Home's Place was long the residence of a family of that name which became extmct in 1565. In the garden of the vicarage at Stone (2 m.) is preserved an ancient altar (Brito-Roman '?) which before its removal there, had, time out of mind, been kept in tlie ch. It had figures of oxen on its fom- sides, only one of which is now perfect. At the foot is an iron ring, for securing the victims (? ) ; and vestiges of the iron linnig to the basin existed until very recently. This altar seems to illus- trate the name of tlie district of which Stone forms a part — Oxney, the " oxen island." The island, 6 m. long, 3 m. broad, is formed by two branches of the Rother, and is famous for its fertile cattle-feeding marshes. [Appledore is perhaps the best l^oint from which to penetrate Rom- ney Marsli, a tract so isolated, that, say the marshmen, the world is di- vided into Europe, Asia, Africa, America, and Romney Marsh. The greater part oftliis land is of ancient formation, tliough it has Avidened considerably within historical times, owing to fresh accumulations of silt and shingle. There was a Roman settlement on it ; and the Merscwara (marslunen) of the Sax. Chron. (whose district formed, according to Kemble, one of the small dependent "kingdoms" into which Kent was Sussex. Route 13. — Romney Marsh. — New Romney. 251 divided during the earlj' Saxon period) have had tlieir constant successors, notwithstanding the malaria, wliicli renders it, says Lambarde, " bad in winter, worse in summer, and at no time good." It is about 14 m. long, and 8 broad, and is divided into four disti-icts • — Romney Marsh proper, N. ; WaUend Blarsh, adjoining, S. ; and S.E. and W., Denge Marsh and Guildford Marsh, part of which lies in Sussex. Eomney Marsh proper contains 23,925 acres, and the other three 22,666. There are few or no trees through- out the district, and the principal di- visions are formed by dykes and watercourses. Cattle and sheep are fed here in great numbers ; the latter a peculiar breed, said to be capable of enduring greater priva- tions from cold and stinted food than any other " lowlanders." The green cattle-dotted plain, with its gleaming water lines, is not with- out its own beauty when overlooked from the adjoining heights — often presenting singular effects of light. There are numerous churches scat- tered through it, many of Norm, date, much of the Marsh having been in the hands of the two great Canter- bury Abbej'S, which did not neglect their outlying parishes. The whole tract was very early fenced from the incursions of the sea, 24 jm-ors having been elected from an unknown period for taking all necessary steps towards its preser- vation. Some complaint having been made by these jurors in the reign of Henry III., the king issued a commis- sion under Henry de Bathe, one of his Justices Itinerant, by whom a sessions was held at Eomney ; and the ' Ordinances of Henry de Bathe,' then agreed to, still lie at the bottom of the English law of chaining and embanking. The whole of the Marsh was incorporated by Edward IV. under whose charter the govern- ment was placed in the hands of a bailiff and 24 jurats. The repair of the walls, and the chainage, is, how- ever, vested in the lords of 2.S adjoin- ing manors, called " The Lords of the Marsh." The Marsh is defended from the sea by Dlmclmrcli Wall, on its E. side, 3 m. long. But for this barrier the sea would overflow it at once. The interior drainage is effected by a number of divisions called water- ings. The Blue Wall, which i-uns across it from Appledore to Romney, marks the old course of the Eother, from which the river is said first to have been diverted by the results of a great tempest temp. Edw. I. In this old bed an ancient vessel, appa- rently of Dutch (?) build, was found within the last few years. It was entirely of oak. From its solitude, this coast was extensively favoured by smugglers ; and at one period by Jacobites. Hm-st House in the fens here was their great place of resort during the concoction of Fenwick's Plot iu' 1696, and Fenwick himself was af- terwards taken here. (Macaulaij, iv. 650.) From Appledore the tourist may cross the marsh to Romney (7 m.)'; and if he pleases, proceed along the coast road, to Hj-the and Folkestone. Snargate (IJ m.) has an E.E. ch. of some interest. In the pavement are many encaustic tiles. The ch. belonged to the archbishop. The ch. of Brenzet (4 m.), dedi- cated to St. Eanswith of Folkestone, has some Norm, portions. It long belonged to the Abbey of Guisues in Artois. Brookland (li m. S.) was attached to St. Augustine's, Canterlniry, and is worth a detour. The bell-tower, built of massive timber, is detached from the ch., and of uiuisual form. The font is Norm., of lead, and en- riched by two rows of minute figures. New Eomney, 8 m. (Pop. 1100 — Lin: the New Inn), Bumen-ea, the 252 Route 13. — Dungeness. Sect. IT. " large island " (Somner — but query), tlie most central of tlie Cinque Ports, though perhaps not the most ancient, contains few relics of its former im- portance besides its church dedicated to St./Nicholas. This is mahilyNorm. and of considerable size. The tower, which is lofty, and seen over all the surrounding level, has an exterior arcade of Norm, arches. The upper part of the nave is E. E. Brassm : Thomas Smith (jurat) and wife, KJlO ; Thomas Lambaude, 1514. This ch. is the solitary survivor of five, which Komney boasted in her flourishing days. It was early granted to the Abbey of Pontiniac, which had a cell here, of which no traces remain. The imiJortance of Eomney as a seaport ceased altogether after the storm which changed the course of the Rotlier (temp. Edw. I.). The general courts of the Cinque Ports were long held here however, after their removal from Shipway Cross near Lymne. A large fair, at which the sheep of the Marsh breed may be duly in- spected and admired, takes place at Eomney, August 21st. 5 m. N. are some remains of Hope Chapel. They are Trans. Norm. Old Romney, about 1 m. liigher up the ancient course of the Eother, is said to have been the earliest port. The silting up of the river's mouth must have begun at a very early ])eriod, since New Eomney was es- tablished soon after the conquest. The ch. may be worth examination. Lydd (3 m. S. of Eomney) was a member of that Cinque Port, and has a large Perp. ch. Brasses : John Montelforet, vicar, 1420 ; Clement Stuppeneye, jm-at and bailiff, 1G08. In the N. chancel is the altai"-tomb, with eiBgj', of Sir Walter MeyneU, t^mp. Edw. III. This ch. was grante'd bv one of the De Glares to Tintern Abbey. At Stone end on the shore, E. of the town, a heap of stones was long shown, called the Tomb of SS. Crispin and Crispiauus, who, ran the tradition, were shipwrecked and buried here. (Their legend was also connected with Faversham — -Ete. 4.) The whole of the land S. of Lydd seems to be of more recent forma- tion than the rest of the marshes. Among a mass of pebbles and sea beach nearly adjoining the town on this side is the Holmstone, a long tract covered with the sea holly or holm, here attaining an unusual size. TJuncje.ness, surroimded by flats and sand shoals, contrasting not a little with the bold chalk clifis of the next southern headland, Beachy, may be reached over the marshes from Lydd (4 m.). There is little to attract however. The lighthouse on this spot, of which the perils resemble those of the Goodwins, was first projected by a brother goldsmith of George Heriot, temp. Jas. I., named Allen. This old liglit was replaced toward the end of the last century, at the sole expense of the late Earl of Lei- cester, when member for Norfolk, by one built after the model of the Eddystone. The architect was Wyatt. The point of Dungeness gains so rapidly from the sea, that it is said to have extended above 1 m. seaward within living memory. This growth is caused by the accumulation of shingle, which throughout the chan- nel is in constant motion from W. toE. Between Dungeness and Folke- stone the line of coast is dotted with Mflrtello towers placed at regular uitervals. These date from 1807, when this sorxthern coast especially demanded protection. The road from New Eonniey to Hythe (10 m.), nms the whole way parallel with the shore ; and, for about 8 m., along the crest of the sea wall, which, more like one of Vaubau's bastions than a Flemish Sussex. Iloiite 1 3. — Dimchurch. — Bihhigton. 253 dune, here protects the marshes. It is kept in repair by a tax levied over the whole district ; is about 20 ft. m height, and 20 broad at the top. At the base it mdens to more than 300 ; and its various outworks of jetties, groins, and fuggotg, well deserve attention. At Dimcliurch, i^ m. (where the ch. has Norm, portions), dming some recent alterations of the sea wall, the remains of a Eoman pottery were discovered ; the situation of which proved that in this part of the marshes the sea has l^een gaining on the land, which, but for the wall, would rapidly be submerged. Great masses of pottery were here dis- covered ; among them, iSamian ware of unvisual beauty. The greater part however was a grey ware, re- sem1>Ung tliat of the Eoman pottery at Upchurch on the Medway. Few coins were found ; but some sepul- chral deposits, indicathig a perma- nent settlement. Under the pottery were discovered bones of the mam- moth and whale ; and above it Saxon and mechseval rehcs ; — a singular mixture of ages. The hue of the ancient estuary, which, beyond Dimchm'ch, passed inland as far as Ljanne, is readily traceable by the eye. The sand ■with which the soil is filled contrasts strongly in colour with the rich pas- tures southwards. 3 At the station beyond Api>ledore, 3 m. Ham Street, the railway leaves the marshes. At Bihington (3.i m. E. of Ham) are the remains of a priory of Au- gustinian canons, founded about 1253 by John Mansell, Henry III."s Great Counsellor — " the wealthiest clerk in Christendom," — who entertained tlie Kings of England and Scotland at a dinner of which the first course con- sisted of 700 dishes. The priory stands on high ground, having a good view over the marsli. Part of the ancient buildings have been worked into the present farm- house. Rucking, between Ham and Bil- sington, belonged to the see of Can- terbury. The ch. has Norm, por- tions. Near the clnu'ch of Kenardington (1 m. W. of Ham) is a British earth- work of considerable size, comiected by a narrow causeway with a second in the marsh below. The forms of both are irregular. The Church of Woodchurcli, 2 m. in the Weald, is E.E. and has some remains of stained glass. It has lately (1857) been well restored. Brass: Nic. de Gore, 1320; his figure wears the chasiible, and is jilaced in the midst of a floriated cross. In this ch. is buried Simon de Woodchurch, i^resent with Ed- ward I. at the siege of Carlaverock, and renowned as " Malleus Scot- onuu" — the "Hammer" of the Scots. Beyond Ham Street, crossing the military canal which unites Rye with Hythe, the railway enters a level district of the Weald, which con- tinues to 6 m. Ashford. (see Rte. 8.) N 3 254 Eonte 14:. — London to Brighton. Sect. IT. ROUTE 14. LONDON TO BRIGHTON. (London and Briiihton Raihoay. London Bridge Station.) For the line from London to Eed- hill (Eeigate Junction), 20§ ni., and thence to Horley, see Handbook for Surrey, ^'C. 1 m. beyond Horley the line enters on the Weald clay ; and shortly after, crossing the boundary of Sus- sex, we reach 29J m. Three Bridges, where 2 branch lines pass E. and W. to Horsham and East Grinstead. For that to Horsham, see Kte. 18 ; for East CTrinstead, Kte. 17. [About IJ m. E. of the Three Bridges station is the Utile Church of Worth, well known to arclijeologists from its affording the only perfect specimen of an Anglo-Saxon ground- plan that remains. It stands very pictiiresqucly on a rising ground, encircled by trees. The Uch gate, througli which the churchyard is entered, N.W., is of some anti- quity. The ch. itself is cruciform, consisting of a nave, N. and S. transepts, and chancel, with a cir- cular apse at the E. end. Tlie walls are covered witli plaster, but are built of roughly-squared stones, and rubble. The nave and transepts have external quoins of long and short work. The great Saxon pecu- liarities are of com-se the external bands of stone, one of whicli was carried as a string-coin-se round the whole building at half the height of the walls. Tliis is supported by pilasters of irregular long and short ■work, wliicli rest in theu' turn on a projecting, double course of stone. Tliis base is in 2 stages, of which the vipper recedes, and " reminds us of the graduate pUnths in classical architecture, from which it may have been derived through debased ex- amples existing in this comitry" ( \V. S. Widford, in Suss. Arch. Coll.). The stringcoiirses of nave and chan- cel are of different heights — possi])ly a proof that the 2 portions were not built at once. Stringcourse, base, and pilasters are now defective in many parts. There is no evidence that tlie pilasters were ever carried above the stringcourse, although at Corhampton, Hants, they reach quite to the roof. These stone bandings are tliought to have been derived from the earher wooden churches, some features of which were thus copied in stone. The external buttresses and masses of masonry are all modern. The doorways, W. and S., are insertions of the ' Dec. period. The chancel arch lias some rude ornament ; those of tlie transepts are quite plain. In the E. side of N. transept is tlie only window that can be original ( W. S. WaJford), small, and semicircular. In the Dec. window over tlie W. door are the arms of De Warrene. The roof is unhappily ceiled, and flat. The font is remarkable, and formed of 2 basins, one above the other ; why so placed is micertain. Altliough the Saxon arcliitecture and plan of this ch. are generally admitted, its date must nevertheless be placed ivithin the lltli cent. It may have been the work of some Saxon " eorl " who fixed himself here among the forests for the sake of their " wild deer." ( W. S. W.) It afterwards became part of tlie barony of Lewes, and continued in the hands of the De Warrenes until 1347, when it passed to the Fitzalans. The forest of Worth still retains its name, and extends far into the adjoining parishes. Tilgate forest Sussex. Route 14. — Bdlcomhe. — West HoaHihj. was formerly considered a portion of it. Tlie scenery is wild and pleasant. The gronnd is well liroken ; patches of heatli and birch-wood occur in all directions ; and some fragments of the older and more " patrician " forest still linger here and there. The artist may wander hero with advan- tage, and will find more and more work for his portfolio as he wanders toward the higher ground, E. A long but very pleasant walk may be taken from Worth to Wakehurst Place and Ardingly Church, return- ing to tlie railway at Balcombe. A peculiar sandstone is much dug in the parish of Worth, " of a white, pale fa\vn or yellow colom-, occa- sionally containing leaves and stems of ferns and other plants " (Mantell). Here and in Tilgate forest, in wet, heathy spots, occurs the rare lichen " Scyphophorus microj^hyllus."] From Three Uridges the railway passes through Tilgate forest — here of no great importance — xmtil it reaches 33| m. Balcombe, where is a little inn in which the tourist will find tolerable accommodation whilst bo- tanising or geologising throughout the neighbouring district. For the general character of the Wealden formation (of which Tilgate forest consists) see Introd. Sussex. It was the delta of a vast river, and con- tains the remailis of palms and tree- ferns, mixed with tliose of enormous reptiles, of all which ample notices will be found in Dr. MariteU's ' Fossils of Tilgate Forest." The first teeth and bones of the Iguanodon, and the first enornious fragments of the Hylceo- saurus, were discovered here by Dr. Mantell. The forest contains 1500 acres ; })ut the woodland scenery on tliis side is not equal to that al)out Worth. Balcombe Church is partly E. B. [_Ardmglij Church (about 2 m. S.E.) has some good Den. portions, com- prising an oaken screen. The porch is of wood, and ancient. In the chancel is the stone effigy of an un- known lady ; anotlier of a knight, pro- bably one of the Wakehursts ; and on the floor are many Bi-asses. chieliy Cidpcpers of Wakehurst. The best, however, is of Richard Wakehurst and his wife Elizabeth, 14(!4, on a Perp. tomb in the chancel. The husband's is a good example of the ordinary costume at this period. Wakehurst Phire (S»- Aiex. ©r?ek- >7c^'^ bu»i), a short distance N. of the ch., was the original seat of the Wake- hursts. It passed to the Culpepers, one of whom, in 15U0, built the pre- sent mansion, picturesque with its gray lichens, and worth a visit. West Hoatldij, 3 m. N.E. of Ar- dingly, has a ch. with some E. E. portions. At the Tower entrance (used as stepping-stones) are 2 iron grave-slabs for members of the Infield family — a use to which the Sussex iron was not unfrequently applied. (The Swedish and Norwegian iron has been used in the same manner ; there are some elaborately-worked slaljs in the churchyard of the cathedral of Tronjhem.) About i m. AV. of the ch., on the summit of a sandstone cliff, is a mass of rock, weigliing about 300 tons, and poised on the very point of another. Its local name is " Great upon Little." It is not a logan rock ; and there seems no reason to regard it as in any way connected with Druichsm, though some early anti- quaries found in it the shapeless em- blem of the British deity Andrast, whose name has also been traced in that of the Andreds -'wooA, in the midst of wiiicli stands " Great upon Little." Dr. Guest, however, sug- gests, and with far greater proba- bility, that the true etymology of this great forest, whicli covered all Sussex N. of the chalk hills, is an, the Celtic negative prefix, and tred, a dwelling — i. e. "the uninhabited region." The scenery of all this sandstone 256 EoUle 14. — CucJ;JioId. Sect. II. istrict has miicli beauty and variety, aiul will well repay the tourist in Seareli of the pictmx-sque. It belongs to the class of wliich Tiuibridge Wells and its neighbovu-hood is a good type — totally distinct from that of the Surrey hills, or from the un- dulating sloi^es of the South Downs. SeJsfieJd Common, N. of W. Hoathly Ghnrch, was formerly a beacon sta- tion, and comiuands tine and very wide views over paiis of Kent, Surrey, and Sussex.] [In the village of Slaugham (3 m. W. ofBalcombe) are some remains of Slaugham Place, the ancient resi- dence of the Coverts, a family of great distinction here during the reigns of Elizabeth and James I., when their manors, says tradition, extended " from Southwark to the sea." In the cli. are some early stained glass, and several Brasses of the Coverts : — John Covert, 1503 ; Jane, 15SG ; and a remarkable one for Richard Covert and his 3 wives, 1547. He is stand- ing in his coffin, staff hi hand, looking toward a figm-e of the Saviour- rising from his sepulchre.] A short distance beyond Balcombe the railway crosses the viaduct over the river Ouse, one of the longest and most important in the kingdom, and constructed at a cost of 58,000/. It has 37 arclies, about GO feet high at tlve centre of the viaduct. Tli'e entire length is more than J m. 2 m. beyond we reach 38 m. Hayward s Heath, whence a branch-line i^asses to Lewes (see Rte. 15). There is a tolerable inn close to the station, where carriages are to be hired. From this point some interesting covmtry is accessible. lOw-kfield, 2 m. W. (Inn: the King's Head), lifts its E. E. ch.-tower among pleasant, wooded sceneiy. The ch., orighially E. E., has had much Perp. addition. It con- tains monuments by Flaxmau and Westmacott. Cuckjield Place (W. Sergison, Esq.) dates from the end of the IGth cent., and is the original Eookwood Hall of Ainsworth's romance. " The general features of the venei-able structiu-e, several of its chambers, the old garden, and in particular the noble park, with its spreading pros- l)ects, its picturesque views of the hall, ' like bits of Mrs. Radcliffe ' (as the poet Shelley once observed of the same scene), its deep glades through winch the deer come lightly tripping down, its uplands, slopes, brooks, brakes, coverts, and groves are carefidly delineated " (Introd. to Eookwood). The prototype of the fatal tree, from which a liough al- "ways fell on the approaching death of its ownier, was also fomul here. It is an enonnous lime, standing in the avenue that leads up to the house, and preserved with all the veneration due to so mysterious a family guardian. Other ancient houses in tliis neighboui'hood are Board. Hill (Capt. Preston\ Slough, and Tye. Ochendon House, adjoining the village, was the residence of Timothy Bm-rell, whose very curious jom-nal (1GS3-17U:) will bo foinid in the Sussex Arch. Coll., vol. iii. " Pan- doxa\i, Pandoxavi," writes tlie worthy Sussex squire on his brewing days, illustrating the entry by a Rus- kincsque sketch of a beer-barrel. In the S. part of the parish is Leigh Pond, covering about 50 acres, and a favoiuite resort of -ndld-fowl during the winter-months. The geologist shoiild visit the quarries on the hill above the town. They were at one time very productive, and the usual wealden fossils may still be obtained from tliem. Bohieij, 3 m. W. of Cuckfield, has a Perp. church, jjicturesquely situated above the village. The neigliboitr* hood is very lieautiful ; and the Adur has here become a " troutful stream," though of no great size. St. Leonard's forest (see Rte. 18) extends into the northern part of the Sussex. Route 14. — Lindfield. 267 parish, which is entirely woodhriid. I There are grand views over tlie downs, and toward the Hampshire hills, from Bolney Conmion, famons for its cherry-trees and camomile. Coonibe House and BoJneij Manor in this parish are both houses of some antiquity. The Chm-ch of Twineham, 2 m. S., is entirely of brick, and of uncertain date. Illcksted Place, an ancient house in this parish adjoining the Brighton road, has its walls orna- mented ^vitll great blocks of brick eartli, worked into crosses and other devices. Such enormous bricks are still made in the county (HHSsey)."] ^Lindfield, 2 m. E. of Haj-^vard's Heath, is in the midst of a most pic- tm-esque district, still more interest- ing, especially as it stretches farther N.E. than that on the W. side of the railway. Lmdfield Church is for the most part Porp., the tower pos very miusual pressed or in- iles, — the entire h tile 15 in. ,520. On the sibly E. E sepulchral efH^ cised on 3 glo size 45 in. by / square. The d wall*» a mural painting of the Dec. period — St. Michael, his robe pow- dered with Gothic M's, stands on a 6-headed monster, weighing souls. The monster's heads are severed. Beside him is the Virgin with a jewelled nimbus, who wounds the dragon with her staff. A small figure prays at her feet. There are many wooden houses in the long, pleasant village street. The work- house also deserves notice. In this neighbom-hood is Pax Hill, an Elizabethan house, built about 1606, and worth looking at. Other old houses are Kenwards, once belonging to the Challoners ; jtSfunt, to the Hamlyus ; and East Mascalls, to the Newtons. All 3 are now farm-houses. From Lindfield, through a lovely country, richly wooded, and affording glimpses of the distant South Downs through the outspreading boughs, the tourist may visit Horsted Keynes, 3 m. The ch. is mainly E. E., and contains a small cross-legged effigy 27 in. in length. Similar ones exist at Mappowder, Dorset ; Long Wil- lenham, Berks ; Tenbiuy, Gloucester- shire ; and Little Hempstead, Devon. The date is early in the reign of Edward I. The rings of mail are not marked, and were perhaps painted. The effigy probably represents one of the Keynes family, who may have gone to the Holy Land with Edward I. This Norman family was spread over various comities in the S. of England : Cheney seems to be the same name — Cahaignes in Noimandy was its cradle. In the S. chancel is buried the excellent Abp. Leighton, d. June 3, 1684. The slab records his name only. After his resigna- tion of the archbishopric of Glasgow, he spent 10 years at Broadhurst in this parish, preaching hi all the neighbouring churches, and practis- ing what he preached. During his sermons, "I never once," says Bp. Burnet, " saw a wandering eye." Broadhurst is now a farmhouse. The ethfying journal of Giles Moore, rector of Horsted 1655-1679, supplies a picture of Sussex life before the period when Sqiiire Burrell of Cuckiield takes up the tale. (Suss. Arch. Coll. i.) His various troubles and expenses, and how he became " obnubilatus" with certain perry, " not knowmg how strong the liquor was," are all care- fully recorded.] For the branch line which runs from Haj-ward's Heatli to Lewes see Rte. 15. At the tunnel close be- yond the Hayward's Heath station a good section is exposed of the Wealden sand, sandstone, shale, and blue marl, or oak-tree clay, to a depth of about 36 yds. At 41J m. we reach the Burgess Hill Station; rt. is Clayton Priory (Col. Elwood), and 2 m. further 258 Route 14. — Hassock's Gate. — Hurstpierpoint. Sect. IT. 43^ m. JIassocli's Gate (" Hassock," ill the local dialect, signifies a thick coi)j)ice, or small wood), from which mucli interesting countiy is com- manded on either side. Carriages are sometimes to be had at an inn near the station, hut caiuiot be de- pended ou. The ped<-stiian, however, who climbs the S. Downs from this point, will have the advantage in every way. [^Eastward, he should make for Ditchling Beacon (aliout 3 m. from the station, 8.58 ft. aljove sea-level), the higliest point of tlie whole S. chalk range, of which the northern escarpment is here unusually bold. In clear weather the views are very grand, commanding nearly the whole of Sussex, and a glittering border of sea. On the summit are tlie remains of a s(xuare entrenchment, probably Roman. The ancient " via" up the N. face of the downs still exists, except at the lower part, where a chalk pit has destroyed it. The walk into Lewes from this point, along the crests of the hills (about 6 m.), is one of the finest to be had in the county, and will give an excellent notion of the downs themselves, ■with their " deans" and " combes," all marked with green fairy riiigs, and solitaiy Celtic bar- rows. Mount Hari-y, the scene of the great battle, lies about half way. (See Rte. 15). The Church of Keynipr, 1 m. from the station, has a plain circular chancel arch, which vkoj be Saxon. That of Ditrhlinf), through which village the pedestrian will pass on his way to the Beacon, is worth notice. It has Tr.-Norm. (nave and aisle) and rich E. E. portions (tower, transepts, and chancels). S. of the ch. is a picturesque old house, now converted into shops. At riumpton FUwe, close under the downs, about .5 m. from IjCwcs, is an old moated house, once the seat of the Mascalls. Leonard Mascall, who lived here tomp. Hen. YIIL, is said to have introduced the carp to this county from the Danube ; and the first of this species brought into England were turned into the moat here, three sides of which still re- main. The Golden Pippin, which he is also said to have introduced, has however been claimed as a native of Sussex, and its birthplace fixed at Parham Park. Street Place, a fine James I. house, nearer the Lewes brancli of railway, was the ancient seat of the Dobells. It is now a farmhouse. The room whicli was once the library has j^ilas- ters of carved work, and a cornice full of Ijatin mottoes such as the royal Solomon himself affected. The house contained a curious hiding-place, en- tered from the great hall chimney. During the civil wars, runs a maiwel- lous tradition, a horseman, piu-sued by a eompanyof Roundheadtroopers, gallopedinto thehall, and disappeared in this recess ; neither he nor his horse could ever be found aftei-wards. In the ch. adjoining is a tablet to Mrs. Martha Cogger, who was, it appears, " A pattern of Piety and Politeness" — a double P which as- suredly should never be disunited. West of Hassock's Gate, the first point of interest is Hurstpierpoint, The village lies about 2^ m. ti-om the station. I^ike tlie hursts of the Kt^ntish Weald, the countiy here shows a deep clay, in which grow "okes grete," such as Chaucer loved to paint, with all tlieir accompani- ments. The church of Hurstpier- point was rebuilt, some years since, by Sir Charles Barry, in the Dec. style ; its doors are always open — a proceeding from whicli no ill results have followed, and which might well be imitated in Sussex and elsewhere. In the S. transept is a much shattered cross-legged effigy (temp. Hen. III.) ; and in the N. aisle another of a knight (temp. Edw. HI.); neither have been satisfac- Sussex. Houte 1 4. — Hurstpierpoint. — Brighton. 259 torily appropriated. There are wide views from the churchyard. Leith Hill, in Surrey, is visible, N. E. the prospect extends to Ashdown Forest, and S. is the long green line of the Downs. The Manor, with its ancient park, lying N. of the cli., helonged to the Pierrepoint family until it passed into the hands of the Dacres, temp. Edw. IV. It now belongs to W. J. Campion, Esq., whose seat, Danny Park, like other Elizabethan houses, lies close under the do^vns. The house is of brick, and dates from 1595. The park contains some of the grandest oaks in the neighbour- hood. On Wolstanhury Hill, at the back of the house, is a circular camp, probably British. St. John s Cvllege, a newly founded middle-class school, in connexion with that at Lancing (see Lancing, Ete. 16, for a notice of the full scheme), stands off the road, about 1 m. N., half-way between the Has- sock's Gate station and the village of Hurst. It contains accommoda- tion for 300 boys, sons of farmers and small traders, for whom an excellent education is provided. Tiie ordinary expenses of education and board are fixed at 18?. 18s. per annum ; but there are one or t\vo special classes for which . the terms are somewhat higher. A walk from Hurstpierpoint to Brighton, over and among the downs, may be safely recommended to the pedestrian. The distance is about 9 m. About 1 m. S. of the Hassock Gate station is the little Church of Clayton, in which is a round, massive, chancel arch resembling those called Saxon. The chancel is E. E. : " at the E. end of N. wall of nave ap- peal's an arch, now filled up, with marks of a roof over it." {Hussey.) The whole building deserves notice.] Below Clayton the rail pierces the line of the S. Downs by a tunnel nearly I5 m. in length, the exrava- tion of which cost upwards of 90,O00Z. Deep chalk cuttings and a shorter timnel succeed. Some part of Stan- nier Park (Earl of Cliichester) tlien opens 1., and at last ajipears 50| m. Brighton (Pop. 70,000, with an average of 25,000 visitors. Hotels : Old Sliip, Royal Albion, Bedford, Boyal York, Bristol, all first-class (especially in their charges), and all facing tlie sea. Second-rate, but still excellent, are the Norfolk, New Shij), New Steyne, and very many more. In Brighton, as in London, eveiT class of hotel is to be found ; in all, the charges increase according to the season. The price of lodgings varies according to the sea-view. It is, however, at all times an expen- sive place of residence, the cost, of living and house-rent bemg about one-third more than in London. The principal baths are Brills', Creale's and Ilobdens. There are machines at difi'erent stations along the strand, but tlie beach is shingle, without sand. Eailroads have in fact made Brighton the marine suburb of Lon- don, to which city it serves as a " lung " almost as effectually as Hyde Park. " It is the fashion to run down George IV. ; but what myriads of Londoners ought to thank him for inventing Brighton ! One of tlie best physicians our city has ever known is kind, cheerful, merry Doctor Brigliton. Hail thou purveyor of shrimps, and honest prescriber of South Down mutton ; no fly so plea- sant as Brighton flys ; nor any clifls so pleasant to ride on ; no shops so beautiful to look at as the Brighton gimcrack shops, and the fruit shops, and the market. I fiincy myself in Mrs. Honeyman's lodgings in Steyne Gardens, and in enjoyment of all these things." {Tliackeray — New- comes, vol. i.) All who wish stir and bustle, gay bonnets, and groves of parasols, may 2G0 Route 14, — Brighton. Sect. II. select Brigliton as their watering- place. It is the largest in the world, and a greater mixture is to be found liere than in any other bathing town. In its streets all classes meet and jostle with as much variety as in Pall 3Iall, and its rows of white, staring terraces might Iiave walked out from Hyde Park or Belgravia. What London cannot give, however, is the wide sweep of open channel, or the famous pier, " where for the sum of twopence you can go out to sea and pace the vast deep without need of a steward witli a basin.'' There is no beauty in the town itself ; and the "pinnacles of the beloved George " provoke any feelings rather than those of admiration. BrifjJdhdmdone claims to derive its name from an early bishop of Selsea : but who the original Bright- helm may in truth have been is alto- gether unknown. After the Conquest the manor was granted to the Earls de Warreno, and a iishing-village was established here, which seems to have speedily attracted Flem- ings from the opposite coast— better fishermen than the descendants of Bp. Wilfred's S. Saxons (see Selsey). The fishing-village lay under the clifl", and its inhaljitants— ;/«(/« as they were called ^traded with their wares to all the neighbouring inland towns. On tlie top of the clitf was a small colony of landsmen, between whom and the jugs was no good feeling. The village, like all the others along this coast, suffered from French attacks during a period of at least three centuries. Early in the 17th the sea began its encroachments ; and the lower, or fishing town, all but disapi^eared. From this and other cartses Brigliton declined more and more imtil a1)out 1750, when a change in its fortune's commenced. At this time Dr. linssell, of Lewes, first drew attention to Brighton as a bathing-place ; and soon after, fine London ladies werepre vailed on to un- dertake the perilous journey through the wilds of Sussex, for the sake of the bracing sea air and the pro- menades on the Steyne, then open and unbuilt ujioii. Mrs. Thrale was here in 1770, accompanied by Dr. Johnson and Fanny Burney— who records the " loyal satisfaction " with which she looked on tlie King's Head Inn — at which Cliarles II. spent the night before embarking at Shoreham (see STioreliam, Etc. IG). " His black-wig- ged jMajesty," she tells us, " has from the time of the restoration been its sign." (It still exists in West Street; tlie original sign was The Georges.) Houses increased, however, but slow- ly, until the end of the century, when tiie Prince of Wales established liimself here, and built the first Pa- vilion. Brigliton was first visited by him in 17S2. Tlie Pavilion was com- menced in 1784, and additions made at intervals until 1817, when the building was altogether changed ; some parts pulled down ; and the rest, with vast additions, converted into the wonderful pile with which all the world is acquainted. Under this royal patronage, the reputation of Brighton was efiectually esta- blished. The pier was built ; houses spread out in all directions, covering the clitfs and the downs ; and be- tween 1820 and 1830 the place was converted from a comparatively quiet village to the vast pleasm-e to^^^l which it now is. The railroad has since brought it within 2 hours of London ; and there is no sign of check to its rapidly increasing streets and terraces. The liest squares and liouses are : — on the W. Cliff, Re- gent's Square, Brunswick Square and Place, and Adelaide Place ; on the E. Cliff, Kemp Town. East- street is the place of business, and there are some good shops m it and on W. Clift; The chief relic of Old Brighton is tlie Church of St. Nicholas, about which the tide of new building has Sussex. Route 14. — rBrighton. 261 risen, hut which formerly stood on liigh open groinid, a hmdraark for the fishermen, as indeed it still is. The building itself, now chiefly Peip., was restored, or rather re- built, in 1853, as a memorial of the Duke of Wellington, who was for some time a pupil of the Vicar here, and accustomed to attend this eh. The original Perji. screen has been gilt and painted. The E. win- dow, with its stained glass of the miraculous draught, recalls Eubens' famous picture in the chapel of the Fishmonger.s' guild at Mechlin. The ancient font has suffered from no beautifyings Imt those of the emi- nent churchwardens of 1745, who considered that the addition of their names on the base would improve the general efiect. It is Norm., circ, and sxirrounded by rude sculptures. On one side is the liast Supper (re- mark the unusual nimbus encircling the Saviour's head, and tlie pallium which he wears) ; the otlier subjects have not been ascertained. In the chantry S. of the chancel is the so-called Wellington Memo- rial, a richly decorated cross, about 18 ft. high. An inscription below records the restoration of the ch. in memory of the Great Duke. A scroll winding round the shaft bears the words Assaye — Torres Vedras — Vit- toria — Waterloo. Within a canopied niche at the top is a figure of St. George. The design is by Cariientcr. In the chm'chyard (not open to the pu1)lic) are the monmnental stones of Captain Tettersell, " through whose prudence, valom*, and loyalty Charles II. was faithfully preserved and con- veyed to France, 1651 " (see Shore- ham, Ete. 16); of Phoebe Hessell, who, though of the gentler sex, fought and was woimded at Fonteiioy, dying at the age of 108 ; and of Mrs. Crouch, the actress. The base of the church- yard-cross also remains. The 2 best modern churches are St. Peter's, at the end of the Steyne, built from a design by Sir Charles | Barry, at a cost of 20,0007. : and St. Faiits, in We«t-street, built by Mr. Carpenter in 18-17. The porch has medallion bas-reliefs from the life of St. Paul. The Steyne, in name at least, be- longs, like St. Nicholas Church, to Old Brighton. It was the rock (stane) on which the fishermen dried their nets ; and became the first jjublic promenade when Brighton rose into fashion ; the downs at that time stretching up from it on either side. On the completion of the Pavilion, in front of which it lies, the Prince obtained jiermission to rail in a i^art of the Stcjiie. Other altera- tions followed ; and in 1831 the j^re- sent roads were cut through it. In it is Chantry's statue of George IV., the presiding genius of Brighton, and a fountahi called The Victoria. The Pavilion is the link between Old and New Brighton. Although Nash was the nominal architect, the general conception is entirely due to the Prince, whose Chinese sympathies had been excited by the recent mis- sion of Lord Amherst. It was occa- sionally visited by William IV. and liy Queen Victoria ; and after it liad been finally abandoned as a royal residence, was bought in 1850, by the town of Brighton, for 53,0007. Its apartments are now used on public occasions of all kinds ; and are al- ways to be seen (paying Is.). The enormous stal)les, including an ex- cellent riding-school, are (1857) about to be converted into a kind of winter-garden. "Will you do me a favour?" writes Sir W. Scott to Morritt, then, Feb. 1826, at Brighton. " Set fire to the Chinese stables ; and if it embrace the whole of the Pa- vilion, it will rid me of a great eye- sore." Overlooking the Steyne (W.), and adjoining the Pavilion, was, and still exists, the house of Mrs. Fitzherbert. The Chain Pier, essentially a sine- cure, for Brighton has no harbour and no packets, was completed in 262 Route 14. — Devifs Dyh. ^QCt. II. 1823, at a cost of 30,000?,, and was the first constructed in England. It suifered much from storms in 1824 and 1833 ; but has since been greatly strengthened. It is one of the grand Brighton promenades, scarcely less frequented than the long Esj^lanade connecting the clift's, which rise E. and W. of the town. The space over which the Pier extends was the site of the original fishing-village, destroyed by the encroachment of the sea. From tlie Cliain Pier to Kemp Town, a distance of nearly a mile, the cliff is now protected by a sea- wall, the cost of which was about 100,000/. Kemp Town, at the end of East Clifi; was built, 1821-30, by Thomas Eeed Kemp, Esq. It contains a crescent and square, with houses equal in size to those of Belgrave Square in London. A tunnel leads from the gardens down to the beach, whei-e there is a pleasant esplanade. Behind Kemp Town are the Sussex County Hosi)ital and a college for orphan daughters of clergymen. Almost the only spot where trees are to be seen near Brighton is the Queen s Park, a prettily laid out garden in a narrow valley running up from the East Clitf, within which stand several villas and the Royal German Spa, where artificial mineral waters, prepared according to the system of Dr. Struve of Dresden, are administered to patients with as effi- cacious results as could be obtained from a visit to the real springs. The great defect of Brighton, one inseparable from so large a town, is the difficulty a pedestrian finds in getting quickly into the country. The esplanade along the beach forms a good walk ; but the cliffs are some distance from tlie centre of the to\vn, and the downs farther still ; in short, Brighton is not the watering-place for an " unclubbable " man, since it affords no solitude except that of a crowd. Numerous excursions, however, of great interest, are to be made from Brighton. All the places in Sussex mentioned in the former part of this route, and in Etes. 15 and 16, may be visited by railway ; and among rides and drives are, the Devil's Dyke, Preston, and Newhaven. The Devil's Dyke, 5i m. N.W. (an omnibus occasionally runs here from Brighton during the season), is one of the finest points of the do^vns, com- mandhig grand views in all directions. The sharp, stee^D declivity has all the look of "a trench cut by the hands of giant excavators ; ' and old Sussex tradition has accordingly assigned it to the Devil, or, as he is some- times called in Sussex, the "poor man." It was intended to pierce quite through the downs ; and the "poor man's " object in digging itwas, to drown tlie churches of the Weald by bringing in the sea on them. But a neighbouring old woman, hearing the work in progress, looked out of her Avindow, hohling a candle in a sieve. The "poor man" took it for sunrise, and disapj^eared, leaving his work half done. His foot-prints, bmnt in the turf, are still shown on the edge of the dyke. On the lofty crest which this dyke divides from the lower range of downs is an oval camp with broad cUtcli and enormous rampart, about 1 m. in circumference. Roman coins have been found here — no proof of course of the origin of the work, which is probably British. The view, over the Weald of Sussex on one side, and toward the sea on the other, is best seen by following the line of the rampart. The Church of Poijnings, below the dyke, is early Perp. and of much in- terest. Compare that of Alfriston, near Lewes, whicli, although larger, so much resem1>les tliis as to prove it the work of the same arcliitect (Husseij). E. of the ch-yard are some traces of the Manor-house, the resi- dence of the baronial family of Poy- nings from the time of Henry II. Sussex. Route 14. — Preston. 26^ The down scenery liere •will amply repay ^yandel■el•s. At the entrance of a valley near Hove, considerably nearer Bi'ighton, was a huge mass of breccia, known as "gold-stone at Hove," called Druidical, and possibly sepulclu-al. (The names gold-rock — guinea-rock — are given to some of the sei^ulchral stones on Dartmoor.) It was about 6 ft. high, and was a few years since carefidly removed and buried in a trench purposely dug for it. Its " dull destroyer " should have been laid by its side. Remains of what has been called a Druidical circle may still be traced at the upper end of the valley ; and similar masses of breccia are scattered here and there about the downs. Preston, 1^ m. deserves a visit, as well for the quiet beauty of its situa- tion as for its little ch., which is entirely E. E. On the wall of the nave, either side of the chancel arch, are some very iuchstinct mural paint- ings, in red and yellow ochre, repre- senting on one side the murder of Becket. All four Knights are present, besides the Saxon monk Grim, who extends his arm to shield the Aljp. On tlie other side is St. Michael with his scales. In the chancel is the tomb of one of the Shirley family, connected with, but not descended from, the Shirleys of Wiston ; and in the nave is the tombstone of " Francis Cheynel, Doctor in Divinity, d. 1G65," the fierce puritanical opponent of Cliillingworth, whose grave even was not safe from his violence. (See Chichester, Rte. 16.) Douglas, the author of the ' Nenia Britannica,' the first book which drew attention to the sepulchral wealth of ancient Kent and Sussex, is buried in the church- yard. The excursion may be continued from Preston to Hollingsbury Castle, overlooking Stanmer Park. The camp is a square of 5 acres, and com- manded the passes from the coast inland. About 3 m. distant from it on either side are the camps on Ditchling Beacon (see ante) and White Hawk Hill — the last a triple earth- work, adjoining the Brighton race- coin-se. The drive to Newhaven, 7 m., by Eottingdean, between the sea and the downs, which here stretch close down upon it, is a very pleasant one. To the geologist, the clifts between Kemp Town and Eottingdean are of considerable interest, since they contain occasional masses of cal- careous strata, in which are found niuuerous bones and teeth of the fossil elephant, floated, it has been suggested, to the Sussex coast by icebergs, durhig extensive changes which took place in the geological period immediately antecedent to the present. Similar relics are found throughout all the valleys of the S.E. and E. of England that open to the sea. Very large ammonites are sometimes found in the chalk, ex- posed at low water, along the shore between Kemp Town and Eotting- dean, besides fossil sponges of much beauty. "Strombolo" or "Strom- balleu ■' (Stream-halls) is the pure Flemish name given here to pieces of black bitumen charged with sulphur and salt, and found along the coast. It is one of the many in- chcations of an early Flemish colony of fishers. Ovingdean Church, 5 m., contains Norm, and E. E. portions. The Manor-house is said, but inac- cm'ately, to have afi'orded shelter to Charles II. before his departure from Shoreham. Rottingdean, nearer the sea, and 4 m. from Brighton, has an E. E. Church, in tlie walls of which por- tions of columns, &c., are noticeable ; indicating the existence of an earlier, and probably Saxon, building. Early in the reign of Eichard II. theFrench, after plundering numerous • other places on the S. coast, lauded here, with the intention of sacking Lewes and its rich priory. But the Prior, John de Cariloco, assembled his fol- 264 Route 14. — Tltinfield. Sect. II. lowersi, and witli some neiglilioiu-ing Knights proceeded to the downs above Rottingdean. Here a "sore scrymmysche " took phice, in which the Prior was defeated and made prisoner : the enemy, liowever, retired withont venturing farther inland. About 2 m. N. of Rottingdean is tlie little liamlet of Balsdenn, lying quite among the downs. A Imildiiig called the "Chapel '' here, but now used as a stable, is apparently Dec. It has the ancient roof, thatched without. The termination dean, frequent in this neighbourhood, indicates a de- pression among the downs, not so profound as the Coombe, which occurs more frequently on the Northern side. For Newhaven and-its neigh- bourhood, see Rte. 15, Exc. from Lewes. For some general notices of the South Downs, which no lover of picturesque scenery should leave Brighton without an attempt to ex- plore, see Introduction (Sussex), and Lewes (post). A very interesting return tour from Brighton to London may ))e made from Arundel (accessible from Brighton by rail), by Farham, Big- nor, with its Roman villa, and Pet- worth, to the Godalmiug Station. This line has no pul die conveyances : but it embraces some of the most interesting places in Sussex, and the down scenery al»out Bignor is of the finest kind, diftering gi'eatly from that in the neiglibourhood of Brighton. The tour should be made to emln-ace two or three days ; and the resting-jDlaces may be Storring- ton, near Parham, where is a toler- able country inn : and Petwurth, where is a much better one. From Petworth a coach runs to Godalming. Three times a week a coach leaves Brighton forHor.sham, passing through some interesting country. It first proceeds under the downs by the Devil's Dyke and Poynings. rt. of the main road, and 7 m. from Brighton, is Newtiniber. The ch. contains same fragments of stained glass. Newtlmher Place (Lady Gor- don) is a brick mansion of some au- tii|iuty, and surrounded by a moat. The Manor of Alhourne, lying off the road 2 m. N., was long the pro- perty of the family of Juxon. Al- hourne Place (the Misses Long) is traditionally said to have been built by the abp. who attended King Charles on the scaftbld. He was himself ])orn at Chichester. Henfield 3 m. is a j^icturesque vil- lage on an eminence, about and in which the tourist will find some good siJecimens of the old Sussex cottages, generally built of dark-red bricks, witli massive chimney shafts. The ch. is Perp., and contains a remark- aljle inscription for Meneleb Rains- ford, d. 1627, aged 9. " Great .Jove has lost his Ganymede, I know, Wliich made him seek another here below — And finding none — not one lilce unto this — Hath ta'en him hence unto eternal bliss." " A child on earth" runs the con- cluding line "is now a saint in lieaven." The admirer of monastic legends will search the pages of Surius and Ribadeneyra in vain for a companion to this. At Shermauhury 2 m. stands the gateway (worth notice) of Ewhurst, an old mansion of the Peverels. It is early Edwardian. Sliennanhury Place (S. Cliallen, Esq.) stands on the site of the Elizabethan house of the Comber family. West Grinstead Church, 2 m., has some Norm, portions, and a wooden porch (Dec.) well deserving atten- tion. In the Burrell chantry are two interesting Brasses: Philippa Lady Halsham (d. 13S5), one of the heir- esses of David de Strabolge, E. of Atholc ; and Hugo Halsham and his wife, 1411. The Bijshrach monu- ment for Wm. Poulett and his wife, Sussex. Route 14. — Knepp Castle. 265 need not be greatly admired. Tlie sfircojjhagus of Sir AVm. Burr ell, d. 1796, whose collections for the hist. of Sussex (now in the Brit. Mus.) have greatly aided his successors, is by Flaxman. The present house of Wed Grin- dead (W. W. Burrell, Esq.), of nonde- script Gothic, dates from 180G, when it was erected by Walter Burrell, Esq. It succeeded an ancient mansion, long tlie property of the Caryls, at which Pope was a frequent visitor. The Park is finely wooded, and commands extensive views. A grand old oak is pointed out in it, under which, says tradition, Pope delighted to sit ; and whose branches may have heard the first murmured music of the ' Rape of the Lock,' which the poet com- posed at the suggestion of his host : — " This verse to Carj'l, muse, is due ! This, e'en Belinda may vouclisafe to view." Abortt 1 m. W. rises the solitary fragment of Knepp Castle (Cncep. A.-S., a hillock), an ancient hunting- castle of the great Braose family : from which they had the couunand of all the adjoining forest district, with its "store of harts." A great establishment of men and dogs was kept hero by them during the reign of John. The remaining wall is part of the keep tower, and shows Norm. window and door arches. Tlie manor has always formed a part of the De Braose Honom- of Bramber. J m. from the rum is the modern castle of Knepjp (Sir C. M. Burrell), built by its present owner, whose family became proprietors of Knc'i^p toward the end of the last century. The house (which is not generally shown) contains an important_gallery of historical jjortraits ; the most m- teresting being eight by Holbein : — 1. Anne of Cleves (engraved in Harding) ; 2. Cromwell, Earl of Essex (engraved in Harding) ; 3. Edward Stafibrd, Duke of Bucking- ham (engraved by Hollar) ; 4. Sir Henry Guldeford (engraved by Hol- lar) ; 5. Lady Guldeford (Hollar) ; G. Sir Picliard Rich, Chancellor to Edward VI. ; 7. Egidius, the "Sa- vant " employed by Francis I. to visit the East ; and, 8. an miknown female portrait. In a lozenge are these arms — three lions gules, cro-\vned or. Others of scarcely less interest are — Sir Rol)ert Cotton ( Vansomer) ; this portrait was engraved by Vertue for the Society of Antiquaries. Wm. Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, Chancel- lor to James I. ( Vansomer^. Loyeus, Chancellor of Brabant {Philip de Champagne). Cornelius Van Tromp, (Frank Hals). A fidl- length of Henrietta Maria ( Vandyke). Charles II. (Sir Peter Lelij). The collection contams other pic- tiues worthy of notice ; but the por- traits are by far the most interesting and important. The greater part of these, including the six first Holbeins, were collected by Sir Wm. Bm-rell, and are all noticed in Granger. The first two were i^urchased at Barrett's sale, the best three at that of the Comitess Dowager of Statford. The park is pleasant ; and the whole scenery about Knepp deserves exploration. The Cliurch of Shipley, in which parish Knepp lies, is Norm, and has a central tower. It was granted to the Knights Templars at the begin- ning of the 12th century. The oak ceiling is flat, and ha§ been painted. In the chancel is the altar tomb with efiigy of Sir Thomas Caryl, d. 1616, which has been restored by Carew. The ch. chest contains a Bj'zan- tine (?) reliquary of wood, enamelled and gilt ; the subjects being the cru- cifixion, with angels. 3 m. N. of West Grinstead is Cow- fold. The ch. is Perp. with an earlier chancel, and in it is the mag- nificent Brass of Thomas Nelond, Prior of Lewes, d. 1433. The Vir- gin and Child are figiu-ed above his head ; and on either side, St. Pancras, 206 JRoute 15. — London to Hastings. Sect. II. the patron of hia priory, and St. Thomas of Canterbury. The inscrip- tion seems to have been partly bor- rowed from that on Gundrada's tomb at Lewes. From Shipley to Horsham, G ni., the road oflfers nothing to delay the tourist. For Horsham and its neigh- bourhood see Rte. 18. ROUTE 15. LONDON, BY LEWES, TO HASTINGS. {London, Brighton, ami S. Coast Rail- way — Lomlon Bridge Station.) For the route from London to Haywards Heath, see Rte. 14 (London to Brighton). At 37 m. from London, Haywards Heath, a line branches to Lewes, where it joins the Hastings line coming from Brighton. There is a tolerable inn (Bennett's) close to the Hayward's Heath Station, where carriages may be hired. After leaving Hayward's Heath the South Downs are full in view, rt., nearly the whole way to Lewes. From 47 m. Cook's Bridge, the interme- diate station, Street and Plumpton (see Ete. 14) may be visited; but the latter, at least, will be more easily reached from the Hassock's Gate Station on the Brighton line. 3 m. beyond Cook's Bridge the railway, passing through a tunnel under the town and castle, reaches the general terminus at 50 m. Lewes, perhaps the most pic- turesquely situated town in the S. of England. (Pop. 9821. J?ms;_ the Star, good and old fashioned, with a grand old staircase of carved oak, brought here from Slaugham Place, the ancient seat of the Coverts : the cellar is antique and vaulted, and is said to have served as a prison for many of the Marian martyrs, some of whom were burnt in the street front- ing the house. Other inns are — the ■White Hart, the Bear, and the Crown.) Tlie town of Lewes — perhaps from Hliew (Sax.), a hill (Lowes is the old Sussex pronunciation : corap. the Galloway " Loch of the Lowes") — which has grown up around the ancient castle and priory, covers the side of a steep hill in the very heart of the South Downs, and at a point where the surrounding heights are unusually striking and elevated. The views from the castle and from the neighbom-ing hills will give the best notion of its po.sition, which to some extent resembles that of Tot- ness in Devonshire, equally castle- crowned. Lewes however can boast of no bright river like the Dart. The Ouse, whicli flows through the town, is sulKciently muddy ; although St. Richard of Chichester is recorded to liave had " good luck in his fisliing" from the bridge, and to have sent the results as a present to the neighbouring Prior of St. Pancras. The view from the High Street, looking back into the face of the opposite liill, especially under certain effects of morning mist and sunshine, is very peculiar and un-English. Those from tlie suburbs of Southover and Cliffe, the latter especially, are scarcely less remarkable. Sussex. Route 15. — Lewes — Castle. 267 The main points of interest in the town itself are the Castle, the Friorij, and some of the Churches. The liistory of the town is in fact that of the fonner two. An excellent Handbook for Lewes has been published by Mr. M. A. Lower — the well-known author of the Essays on English siirnamcs — who resides in the town, and whose researches have contributed not a little toward the illustration of the history and antiiiuities of his native county. We have been greatly indebted to his Handbook, and all who are desirous of more ample information than can here be supplied should have recourse to its pages. British names of localities, which abound in the neigldjourliood of Lewes, prove the existence of a Celtic settlement here. Roman coins and remains have also been found. Lewes had two mints during the reign of Athelstane ; and some specimens of its coinage are in the possession of Mr. Ade of Slilton Court, at which place they were found. After the Conquest, Lewes was granted to William Earl of Warrene, whose Countess, Gimdrada, was the daughter of William I. The town had become important during the Saxon period ; and its castle either already existed, or was now built by William de Warrene, who in con- junction with his wife afterwards built and endowed the priory of St. Pancras in the meadows below. Tlie castle continued in the hands of the Warrenes until the extinction of that great family in the 14tli cent., when, with the barony, it passed to the Fitzalans of Arundel. Dur- -ing the Warrene period occurred the battle of Lewes (May, 12CA). (See post.) Lewes was more tlian once disturbed by French attacks on the coast, but was never itself pil- laged. The town witnessed sundry autos da fe' during the reign of Mary; and the nonconformists troubled it much after the Restora- tion. From that time no marked events have occurred to ruffle its tranquillity. The Castle, whose "worm-eaten hold of ragged stone " towers grandly above the town in all dis- tant views, is approached from the High Street by a turning close beiow St. Michael's Chm-ch. The gate-house, with battlements and machicolations, is early Edwardian, and, like all the existing remains, belongs to the period of the De Warrenes. " There are no loops for the raising of the drawbridge, but the massive hinges of the gates i-emain, as also the grooves for a double portcullis." (M. A. Lower.) The original Norm, gateway, with plain semicircular arch, remains close witliin, and is in all probabihty a fragment of the work of the first Earl William. The enclosure within this outer wall, forming the outer ballium, or base court, was in shape an irregular oval. At each extre- mity is an artificial mound; thus giving Lewes Castle the very unusual peculiarity o'f two keeps. The space between the centres of the two mounds measures nearly 800 feet. One of these is occuijied liy the remains of the existing keep. On the other, called the Brack mount, there are traces of foundations which prove tliat it was once crowned by a similar mass of towers. The keep is reached by a winding ascent close witliin the gatehouse. Of its four octagonal towers only two remain, clustered with ivy and liart's-tongue, and rising from a thicket of ash-trees winch covers the base of the moimd. These towers are perhaps earHer than the gateway, l;>ut date from a period long after tlie Conquest, and are the work of one of tlie later De War- renes. They can only be visited by strangers after the payment of a sixpenny fee, since the pirincipal tower has been given iip to the Sussex Archseological Society, whose 268 Boute 15. — Lewes — Prioi^. Sect. II. mriseum is arranged in its several stories. Tliis contains a few local remains of interest — celts and pottery from the barrows which dot the sur- face of the Downs, some relics of the Snssex iron-works, and a collection of seals of tlie Cinque Ports and their members. In a room above are ar- ranged rubbings from some of the finest Sussex brasses, and fragments of carved stones from the Priory ruins. But more striking than anything in the Society's museiun is the view from tlie leads of the tower. It ex- tends N. over the forest-like coiuitry of the Weald as far as Crowborough, and the still more distant line of the Surrey hills. S. is seen South- over, with the winding Ousc, and the gleam of the sea at Newhaven ; and, close below, the town itself, with its trees and gardens, lies scattered between the steep hills that guard it ; — Mount Harry, the scene of the great battle, on one side, and on the other Clitfe Hill and the narrow, deeply shadowed Coombe. The general position of tlie town is well seen here. Although quite sur- rounded by hills, it nevertheless stands at a point where the Ouse, once a broad estuary as high as Lewes, pierces them ; wliilst under Firle beacon, a valley (now traversed by the railway) opens toward tlie coast E. Lewes Castle therefore, like Bramber and Arundel, guarded one of the Sussex highways to and from Normandy. Scarcely less interesting tlian the Castle, in spite of its scanty remains, is tlie VGnemhle Priori/ of St. Pancras. at the foot of the liill. In true old- worlil fasliioii, the monk and tlie baron divided the town between tliem. The ruins are in private hands, and are not generally acces- sible to strangers, but for all ordinary purposes a sufficiently good view may be obtained from the mound near the groimds of the cricket club, which closely overhangs them. Tlie railway passes directly over the site of the great church of the Priory; and whilst its interference with the ruins is to be regretted, the necessary excavations nevertheless gave rise to one of the most interesting of recent archajolo- gical discoveries — that of the coffins and remains of "William de Warrene, the first Norm. Earl, and Gundrada his wife, daughter of the Conqueror, the builders of Lewes Castle, and the founders of the Priory. A small wooden chapel, dedicated to St. Pancras (the first saint to whom Augustine dedicated a church after his arrival in England— see Canterbury, Rte. 8), existed on tliis spot before the Conquest. At Abp. Lanfrauc's suggestion, William and Gundrada raised tlieir priory liere, and filled it with Cluniac monies ; wliich order had received the Earl and Countess at Clugny, when on their way to Italy, with unusual hos- pitality. They were the first Clu- niacs who were established in Eng- land, and their priory continued the only one in tlie island for the next 150 years. Their introduction very probably formed part of Lanfranc's plan for the reform of the Saxon monasteries. "Intidit ecclesiis Au- glorum balsama morum," runs the verse on Gundrada's tombstone. Unlike the disciples of Benedict or of Bernard, the Cluniacs (themselves a lu'aucli of the Benedictines) pre- ferred a i^opidous neighbourhood, and were distinguished by the wealth of their churches and the splendour of their services. The election of the prior of Lewes was always subject to the apj^roval of tlie Abbot of Chiguy, of wJiicli famous house Lewes was one of the "five chief daughters;" and in the great councils of the order the prior took the second i)lace. The close vicinity of the coast, and tlie foreign con- nexion always kept up by the monks, caused them to be regarded with some distrust during tlie later French wars ; and Edward III. (Oct. 4, 1338) directs the Bp. of Chichester Sussex. Route 15. — Leioes — Priory. 269 to remove the whole of the brethren without delay to the Cliimac houses further from the sea. For this distrust however there was not always reason. Prior John de Cariloco himself took part in a "sore scrimmyshe " with the French at Kottingdean in 1377, and was made prisoner. The Priory was large and stately. It was occu- pied the night before the battle of Lewes by Henry III. and his fol- lowers, who are said to have made even the great church a scene of such .sacrilegious revelry as called down the vengeance of tlieir defeat on the following day. After the battle Prince Edward took refuge here ; and the Priory was fired by the barons, but the flames were extin- guished before great harm had been done. At the dissolution the build- ings were entirely dismantled, the vaults and pillars " plucked down" (so Portinari wrote to Cromwell), and the land sold. The site was at first granted to Cromwell ; after revert- ing to the Cro\vn it became the pro- perty of Thomas Sackville Earl of Dorset ; and has since passed through many hands. In this Priory v.as educated Ednumd Dudley, the fa- vourite of Henry VII., who, in Lord Bacon's words, "took toll of his master's grist," and was beheaded on Tower Hill, together with his col- league Empson. Dudley's father is said to have been the carpenter of St. Pancras. The existing remains are very scant}', and tlieir appropriation un- certain. The space enclosed be- tween two long walls, under which a stream of water flows, has been called the monastic kitchen, but in all probability had a less honourable destination. There are some frag- ments of late Norm, wall, and of a wiiiding stair, on which, says an edifying tradition (unrecognised l)y Mr. Froude), Hemy VIII. mur- dered one of his wives. The pigeon- house, which stood S.W. of the present ruins, was taken down about 50 years since. " It was cruciform, and equalled in magnitude many a parish church." There were 3228 pigeon-holes. Traces of tlie monas- tic fish-ponds may still be seen beyond the enclosure, S. But per- haps tlie most interesting fragment is the so-called " Lantern " of the Priory, standing farther back than the great mass of the ruins, in the garden of the proprietor. It is a round building, vnidergrouud, quite dark, and entered through a narrow passage of some length, from what was originally a vaulted crj-jjt (now covered by the railway). The Lan- tern itself, there seems to be no doubt, was the prison of the monas- tery, in which the refractoiy monk was secluded — sometimes in chains ; (see Ducange, s. v. 'Laterna;' and tlie Cluniac statutes of Peter the Venerable). — Sussex Archaeological Coll. There is a similar recess, called Isaac's Hole, at Michelham Priory, near Hailsliam. The artificial momid in the cricket- ground was connected with the Prior}', and may very joossibly have served as the base for a Calvary, a necessary adjunct to most Benedic- tine monasteries. The hollow near which it stands — called the "Drip- ping-pan " — was perhaps originally a garden. The great cliiuvli of the Priory, abandoned at the dissolution, con- tained the stately tombs of numerous Do Warrenes, Clares, De Veres, St. Johns, and Fitzalans. In Oct. 1845 the excavations for the line of the railway led the workmen straight across the site of the ancient chapter- house, and through a part of the church itself. The chapterhouse of a monastic churcli was a not un- usual place of interment for persons of especial distinction ; and liere, about 2 feet Ijelow the surface, were discovered the cofiins of the f(3unders, William De Warrene and Gundrada, now preserved in South- o 270 Route 15. — Lewes — Southover Church. Sect. IL over Clmrcli (see post). Other remains, but of far less interest, were also found here ; and a few feet E. of the ch. a circular pit was opened, 10 ft. in diam. and 18 ft. deep, filled to about half its depth with human remains. Many luindred bodies must have been flung into this jiit, the contents of which infected the air 80 terribly, that even the not very delicate senses of the railway exca- vators were overpowered. It seems doubtful whether this wholesale in- terment was the result of the great battle of Lewes, or of the fearful "black death" of the 14th cent., which is said to have fallen with especial severity on the monks and clergy. From the Priory the visitor should proceed at once to Southover Cliurch, close beyond, in which the De Warrene relics are reposing. Part of the nave arches are early Norm. Tlie cliancel is Peip., and originally extended much farther E. No part of the building, however, is so interesting as the little Norm, chapel, erected by subscription in 1847 to contain the bones of Gun- drada and her husband. The de- signs were made by a local archi- tect, to whom they are highly cre- ditalde. The material throughout is Caen stone. In the stained win- dows are small figures of William and Gundrada, and of St. Pancras, patron of the priory. The walls are arcaded ; and on the floor-tiling appear the arms of De Warrene, and of some succeeding barons of Lewes. Within two deeply recessed arches in the S. wall are placed tlie leaden coffins of Earl William and his Coun- tess. " The lids do not appear to have been soldered or otherwise fastened to the coffins, but merely flanged over the edges. The ornamentation of both is very singular, though simple. Tlie plates composing them are evidently cast. A cord of loose texture seems to have been im- pressed in the sand at regular inter- vals, and then crossed in the opposite direction, so as to produce on the plates a lozengy or network pattern, in relievo, with interstices aver- aging 5 in. by 3. It is worthy of remark that our phmibers, to this day, ornament their coffins with a similar pattern slightly incised in the lead." (ill. A. Lower.) On the upper end of the two coffins, respec- tively, are the words " Gundrada " and "Willelm." The length of William's coffin is 2 ft. 11 in., of Gundrada's 2 ft. 9 in. They are not of course those in which the Earl and Countess were originally l)uried, since they are not of sufficient size ; and it is suggested that at some period not very remote from their decease the bodies of the founders were exliumed, and afterwards de- posited in tlieir present coffins, be- neath the floor of the chapter- liouse. From measurements of Earl William's bones, he appears to have been more than 6 ft. high. The teetli were perfect. The ancient tombstone of Gun- drada, which occr;pics the centre of the chai:>el floor, is certainly of tlie same date as the leaden cists above, since the Norman characters on both are precisely similar. Its " chevrefeuille " ornament, and its leopard-heads, are also indications of its early date. The histoiy of this stone is remarkable. After the demolition of the priory it was seized by a Mr. Sliiudey, of Isfield, near Lewes, who, being of an economical character, converted it into a portion of his own tomb. From this office it was rescued by Sir William Burrell, about 1775, and placed in Southover Cliurch, as the nearest spot to its original loosition in the Priory. After a lapse of nearly 300 years, tlie tombstone and the relics which once slept beneath it are reunit- ed ; and althougli the church which William and Gundrada so riclily endowed and " thought it should have canopied their bones till Sussex. Route 15. — Lewes — ;S'^. MicliaeVs. 271 Domesday," has altogetlier disap- peared, their remains are nevertlie- less sheltered by consecrated walls, and their memoiy is still fragrant mthin their ancient town of Lewes. The strildng inscription on Gun- drada's tombstone rims as follows; where it is imperfect, the stone luis been broken :— " Stirps Gundrada ducum, dccus evi, nobile germen lutulit ecclesiis Anglorum balsama morum. Martir Martha fuit miseris ; fuit ex pietate Maria. Pars obiit Jlartbe ; superest pars magna Marie. O pie Pancrati, testis pietatis et equi Te tacit heredem ; tu, Clemens, susoipe Ma- trem. Sexta Kalendarum Junii, lux obvia, camis Fregit alabastnim." The words "testis pietatis et equi " refer to the legend of St. Pancras, at whose tomb all false swearers were citlier possessed by evil spirits, or fell dead on the pavement. The allusion to Martha and Mary is repeated, witli for less propriety, on the superb brass of Thomas Nelond, prior of Lewes, in Cowfold Church. " Mundi Martha fuit, sed Xto. mente Maria." Tlie efhgy in tlie N. wall recess was also found during the excava- tions at the priory. It is temp. Hen. III. ; and from some traces of the Braose arms on the siUToat it lias been conjectured to represent John de Braose, Lord of Brumber (d. 1232). The ring-mail has been gilt. The great gate of the priory stood near the E. end of Southover Chui'ch. It was removed in 1832. The side portal, which adjoined it, was then placed at the end of Soiithover Crescent, where it now remains. Tlie ancient house nearly opposite the ch. is said to have been for some time the residence of Anne of Cleves ; who, together with Henry VIII. and Cromwell, occupies a conspicuous place in Sussex tradi- tion. Of the rcmaimng cliurches in Lewes, the most interesting are Si. Anne's, at the top of the hill — very good Trans.-Norm. with an early font ; — this churcli has been lately re- stored : and St. Michaels, near the projecting clock in the High Street, mth a low circular tower. Hero are two Brasses — John Braydforde, rector, 1457; and an unknown knight, about 1400. Against tlie wall is a monument for Sir Nicholas Pelham, d. 1559, who, with his wife and ten children, kneels before a lectern. The inscription runs^ " His valour's proofe, bis manlie vertue's prayse. Cannot be marsliall'd in this narrow roome ; His brave exploit in great king Henry's dayes Among the worthy hath a worthier tonibe : What time the French sought to have sackt Sea-Foord This Pelham did repel 'cjd back aboord." The helmet suspended above may have been tlie actual one worn by tills valiant Pelham during the skirmish, which occurred in 1545. The Church of St. John sub Castro is modern ; but stands on the site of a vciy ancient ch., of which the arch of one doorway, formerly in the S. wall, has been jireserved, and re- placed in the present building. There is also preserved an inscrijition in two semicircular lines, which rims tlius :— " Clauditur hie miles, Danorum regia proles ; Mangtius nomen ei.tnangniu nota progeniei ; Deponens Jlangnum, se moribus induit ugniim Prepcte pro vita, fit parvulus arnacorita." Of the Magnus thus recorded nothing is known, though tradition asserts that he was made prisoner in a battle with the Danes close to the town. The letters are apparently of the 14tli cent. The ehurchyaid occupies the site of a very small Roman camp, of which the vallum is still traceable. In it is the tomb of Thomas Blunt, barber, of Lewes (d. IGll), who gave the town con- stables a silver gilt cup, still used by 2 272 Route 15. — Lewes — Neighbourliood. Sect. II. their successors; his epitaph ac- cordingly oonchuling — " Oona dedit, donisq. drttis, datur ipse scpul- cliro : Dona dedit ; dando celestia dona rccepit." In the Connhj Hall half way ilown the High Street, is a good picture by Northcote, formerly in the Shakspeare gallery, and a portrait of General Elliot, the hero of Gib- raltar. Lewes was the birthplace of Dr. Mantell the geologist ; whose dis- coveries throughout this chalk dis- trict, as well as in the Weald, form prominent landmarks in the history of the science for which he did so much. The literary reputation of the towna is at present sustained by Mr. Lower of St. Anne's House, author of many well-known works, and whose valuable local researches have already been noticed. The toallis in the neighbourhood of Lewes are almost endless ; since the downs, with their perfect frec- spruigy turf, open at the town. The visitor climb the Cliffe Hill, the town, a fine view of dom and once from may first fronting which is obtained from it : the houses struggling up the hill-side, with theii- 'red roofs glistening among the trees, and the grand old castle overtowering them. Beyond rises Mount Harry, the scene of the battle; and the Weald, with the Ouse winding through it, stretches away N. Close below, Cliffe, one of the suburbs of Lewes, extends its long street under the steep escai-p- ment of the chalk, a situation of .some danger. In Dec. ISoG, a vast mass of drifted snow slipped from the hill, and entirely desti-oyed a range of cottages on which it fell. Eight persons perished in the ruins. Cliffe inn may be; climbed at its soTithern extremity, and the town may be regained througli the Ccxiinhe, one of the lions of Lewes, wliich opens at the farther end. This is one of tliose deep hollows occur- ring throughout the chalk districts, which the sun only touches for a short time even at the season of "St. Barnaby bright," and whose steep sides are not to be descended without much care and caution. The green winding level at the bottom, looking iioia above like a procession path for the hill fairies, will bring the visitor back to the town. " By aid of the numerous chaUc-pits worked at the tenuination of the Coombe, we discover that the ravine coincides precisely with a line of fault, on one side of which the chaUv with flints appears at the summit of a liill, while it is thrown down to the bottom on the other." — Lydl ; who refers to the Coombe as " a beautiful example of the manner in which narrow openings in the chalk may have been connected with shifts and dislocations in the strata. " From the opening of the Coombe the walk may be extended to South ]Malhug, along the Cliffe suburb. In this is Jireh chapel, erected, as an inscription on the front an- nounces, by J. Jenkins, W. A. (Welsh Ambassador), and containing, in the little cemetery behind, the tomb of the well-known William Huntingdon, S.S. This is his epitaph : — " Here lies the coalheaver, beloved of his God, but abhorred of men. The Omniscient Judge, at the grand assize, shall ratify and confirm this to the confusion of many thousands ; for England and its metropolis shall know that there hath been a prophet among them. W. H., S. S." (Sinner saved.) Some good views of the town are obtained on the road to Mailing Church ; the foundation stone of which was laid (1G28) by John Evelyn of the Sylva, whose early education was received at the South- over Grammar School. The ch. contains nothing of much interest; but some distance W., at Old 3Iallinfj, is the site of an ancient collegiate Sussex. Route 15. — Levees — Nei^libourliood. to chiu'cli, called the " Deanery of Mailing," estalilished on a manor of the Alijisi. of Canterhnry. The earliest foundation is said to have been made by Ceadwalla King of Wessex (about 688), and it was therefore one of the first Christian churches in Sussex. The archbishops had a residence here ; and were able to jmss from South IMalling to their Kentish diocese tlirougli a line of parishes equally theii- o^vn "pecu- liars.' The day following Becket's murder, the four knights rode 40 miles by the sea-coast from Salt- wood Castle to this place. " On entering tlie house they threw off their arms and trappings on the large dining-table wliich stood in the liall, and after supper gathered round the blazing hearth ; suddenly the table started back, and threw its burden on the ground. The attend- ants, roused by the crash, rushed in with lights, and replaced the arms. But soon a second still louder crash was heard, and tlie various articles were thrown still fartlier otf. Soldiers and servants witli torches searched in vain under the sohd table to find the cause of its convulsions, till one of the conscience-stricken knights suggested that it was indignantly refusing to bear the sacrilegious burden of their arms. So ran the popular story; and as late as the fourteenth cent, it was still shown in the same place, the earliest and most memorable instance of a 'rapi^ing,' 'leaping,' and 'tiiming' table." {Stanley, Hist. Mem. of Can- terbury.) From South Mailing the knights proceeded to Knaresborough. The only trace of former glories now existing at Old Mailing is the capital of a column witli foliated ornaments in the kitchen of the farmhouse, and a small fragment of an early Norm, wall in the garden. From Cliffe Hill a walk may be undertaken to Mount Cuhuru, about 2 m. from Lewes, where a small en- trenchment, probably British, occu- pies the brow of a hill overhanging the IJass through which the railway winds, and looks across to Firle Beacon on the opposite side. This mass of hill is entirely divided from the rest of the S. dow'us ; the Firle valley cutting it off from the line whicii extends to Beacliy Head, and the Ouse separating it from tlie spur on which the town of Lewes is built. It is about 9 m. in circumference ; and tlie drive round this isolated cluster of hills is a very pleasant one, passing through the villages of Beddingliam, Glpidc, and Ringmer. It is from Bingmer that many of Gilbert White's (of Selbourne) let- ters are dated. " Though I have now travelled the Sussex downs up- wards of 30 years, yet I still investi- gate that chain of majestic moimtains with fresh admiration year by year." {lltliLetter to Barrington.) The rook- ery whicli he meutions still exists. Mount Caburn is so conspicuous an oliject from the top of the Cliife Hill, that the pedestrian will have no difficulty in findmg his way to it. The "cleans "and "coombes" and green heights which make up the character of the downs are here seen in perfection. The tourist who may have been accustomed to the fresh, dafihing streams usually found in dis- tricts like these, filling every hollow with the most delicious sound in the world — "the lonely voice of waters, wild and sweet" — will here, as throughout the chalk country, find them missing. He must seek con- solation in the exquisitely varying lights, which along these soft reaches of turf produce eflects almost more striking and picturesque than on rougher hill-sides. Even the solemn grey shadows of the coombes rmder a completely clouded sky are not witliout tlieir ))eauty. (For a general notice of the S. Downs see Introduc- tion, Siissex.') The view, which is grand and varied the whole way from Clifte Hill, attains its finest point at Mount 274 HoiLte 1 5. — Lewes — NeighlouylioGd. Sect. II. Cabm-n. Pevensey Castle and Battle Abbey — each a landmark in the story of the Conquest — are within sight; and troni his watch-tower liere the archseologist may recon- struct for himself the whole pa- norama of ancient Sussex. The view from the sister height, Firle Beacon, is perhaps still more pic- turesque, since it has more of the sea; but this summit is not so easy of access as Caburn. The camp at Mount Caburn is nearly circular, with double trenches and a very lofty rampart. There are traces of gates or entrances, E. and AV. It effectually commanded the pass below, into wiiich the hill slopes from it suddenly and steeply. There are many traces of earth-works in the valley under the camp, in the direc- tion of Lewes, called Oxsteddle Bot- tom. One small oblong enclosure here, looking at a distance like an open book, is called " The Bible ;" and sometimes "Tlie Devil's Book." On the short sweet grass of Mount Caburn and the neighbouring downs the famous breed of S. Down .sheep was pastured, and its merits first de- veloped, by the late Mr. Ellman, wliose resilience was in the village of Glynde below. His improve- ments in the breed were noticed by Arthur Young in 1788. In 1800 the principal landowners of Sussex presented him with a silver vase in recognition of his merits ; and after disposing, at intervals, of rams from his flock at very high prices, he died in 1832, by which time the breed of S. Down sheep had been spread, and taken the highest place, through- out Great Britain. The bee-orchis, among other rare plants, is to be found, in its season, on these hills. The small Dec. ch. at the old royal manor of Kingston (about 2 m. from Southover) is worth a visit for the sake of its position. The vil- lage is curiously nestled under the hills. The return may be through Iford, where is a Norm. ch. of con- siderable interest, with a central tower; and thence to Southover. Swaiihorough, an old farmhouse, 1., with considerable remains of early architecture, was a grange belonging to the Priory of St. Pancras. The northern side is E. E. with Peip. additions and alterations. The so- called "Chapel" is divided into 3 rooms. The roof is concealed by a flat ceiling, but should be examined, as it may be, above. It resembles that of Godshill Church, Isle of Wight {Hussey), and is very early Perp. W. of this E. E. portion is an addition entirely Perp. In the kitchen is an " ancient very massive oak table, constructed to draw out nearly double its usual length." The most interesting of all walks from Lewes, however, is that to Mount Harry, the scene of the great battle, and so called, as appears most probable, from the unhappy king (Henry III.), who was there defeated. Its highest point is about 3 m. W. of the town. Tlie road tm"ns off on tlie downs a short dis- tance beyond St. Anne's church, and climbs to a windmill, which forms a conspicuoiis mark ; thence crossing the race-course (where races are annually held for two days), the pedestrian reaches Mount Harry itself, the summit of which, called Black Cap, is crested by a stunted plantation. The downs are dotted witli barrows, Celtic and Saxon. The views of the S. downs themselves, and of the Caburn cluster, are full of variety and beauty ; not less striking are those toward Lewes Castle and town, with the coombes beyond ; and northward stretches away the great Weald valley, its depth of oak- forest and ancient wood finely con- trasted with the bare, sliadow-swept heights from which we look down on it. In early autinnn, when the corn-fields, " like golden shields cast down from the sun," are just ready for the sickle, the view from all these hills is as fine as can well be con- Sussex. Route 15. — Battle of Leives. 275 ceived. Newhaven, the port of Lewes, is visible soon after first climbing tlie clowns. At an opening farther on, the terraces of Brigliton appear in the distance, far more pic- turesque than when seen nearer at hand. Remark the broad green pathways that descend the face of the downs in 'a sloping direction all along the N. side of the range. These are called BorstaUs (Beorh- stigele, hill-path, suggests Kemble), and are no doubt tlie most ancient lines of communication seaward. One of the most conspicuous liere is Jugs' Borstal!, so called from the old Brighton fisliermen, locally named Jiigs, who used to cross it with then- wares to Lewes. Over all this hill, from the top of Mount Harry to the town, the battle extended in its various stages. The king, accompanied by Prince Edward and the main body of liis forces, reached Lewes May 11th, 1264, and established himself in the Priory of St.Pancras; Prince Edward taking lip his quarters in the Castle of De Warrene, his brother-in-law. The army of De Montfort and the barons rapidly followed Iving Hem-y ; and their camp was fixed at Fletching, in the Weald, about 9 m. from Lewes. (The spire of Fletching Church is visible from IMount Harry.) The Bps. of London and Worcester were despatched by De Montfort as bearers of his final propositions to the King : these were rejected, and the Bai"ous at once jirepared for battle. Early on the morning of the 13th of May their army chmbed the do^vms, and advanced along the ridge vmtil they came within sight of the bell-tower of the Priory. Here Simon de Montfort addressed them ; and all the troops prostrated them- selves on the turf, extending their arms in the form of a cross, and uttering a short prayer for victory. De Montfort, having been lamed by tlie fall of his horse some time before the battle, had been conveyed to Fletching in a sort of closed litter. This was now brought on the field, and stationed on a conspicuous point of the hiU, surrounded by his own standard and pennons, in order to deceive the royal troops. Within the litter were shut up some London citizens of importance, who had been made prisoners in the preceding autumn. From the highest point of Mount Harry three projecting ridges stretch down toward Lewes, separated by deep hollows. The Barons' army advanced along these ridges in three divisions. The left was commanded by Nicholas de Segrave, the centre by De Clare, and the right by the two sons of De Montfort ; a fourth division remained in reserve, com- manded by the Earl himself. The King had been made early aware of the advance of the Barons and of their ascent of the downs. Prince Edward first issued from the Castle, and found himself opposed to the body of troops under De Segrave. On the S., Richard King of the Ro- mans, with his son, fronted the young De Montforts ; and King Henry him- self commanded the central body opposed to De Clare and the Earl's reserve. When the two hosts had thus faced each other, the royal " dragon " was unfurled, and with the famous challenge from the King's mouth, " Simon, je vous defye," the battle began. The left body of tlie Barons' army, imder De Segrave, were at once broken by the troops of Edward, who pursued them for four miles without drawing bridle. Tlie rout was complete. "Along the most northern slope of the downs nu- merous bones and arms have been found, tracing the direction of their flight toward the W., where the abrupt steepness of the ground afl"orded fugitives on foot the best chance of escape from horsemen." {W.H.Blaauw.) During this advance, or possibly on the return, Prince 276 Fioute 15. — Lewes — Neighbourhood . Sect. n. Edward attacked the litter in wbicli Simou was supposed to be, and tlie unhappy London citizens were killed. Meauwliile, De Montfort, seeing the confusion caused by the Prince's eager pursuit of the left wing, brought down his reserve upon the remaining royalists. The King of the Konians, after a "strong struggle," fled; and King Henry, after two horses had been killed under him, retreated into the Priory with the scanty remnant of liis forces. On Prince Edward's return the battle was renewed under the Castle walls, and in the streets of the town ; but, like his father, he was finally driven within the walls of St. Pancras. At the commencement of the battle some knights from tlie Barons' army had been made prisoners, and con- fined in the castle. An attempt was made to rescue them, but without success ; and in revenge the barons set fire to the Priory, though the flames were soon extinguished. After the Prince's return, and pro- bably during the attack on the Castle, a number of his followers, seeing that the day was lost, left him and fled toward Pevensey. They were joined by other fugitives from the town; and a terrible confusion took i)lace at the bridge which crossed the Ouse S. of Lewes. " Numbers were there drowned, and others suffocated in the pits of mud ; while, from the swampy nature of the ground, many knights Avho perished there were discovered after the battle, still sitting on their horses in complete armour, and with drawn swords in their lifeless hands. Quan- tities of arms were found in this quarter for many years afterwards." ( W. H. Blaamv.) The King of the Eomans had taken refuge in a wind- mill which stood on the site of the present Black Horse Inn, on the edge of the downs, above St. Anne's Church. " Tlie Kyng of Alemaigne thought to do full well; he seized the mill for a castel," ran the ballad ; but "the bad miller'' was attacked in his fortress and made prisoner. About 50u0 are thought to have been killed in the battle, although a much higher number has sometimes been given. The day thus closed with the en- tire defeat of the royal party. The so-called " Mise of Lewes " was the result. Prince Edward, and his cousin, the son of the King of the Romans, were delivered to tlie barons as hostages, and the matters in dis- pute referred to the arbitration of the King of France. Although the cause of the barons sank low after the subsequent defeat at Evesham, the battle of Lewes was nevertheless a great step toward the establishment of the liberties of England. The Great Charter was materially confirmed on the green- sward of Mount Harry; and the advantages here gained by the high heart of De Montfort were never en- tirely lost. For this and for ample details of the whole contest see Mr. Blaauw's 'Barons' War,' London, 1844. 2 m. to the W. of Mount Harry a large cross was cut on the side of the downs; only now visible imder peculiar eff"ects of light. It was perhaps intended to excite the prayers of travellers for the re- pose of such as had fallen in the battle. From Mount Harry the pedestriau may descend tlie hill on the N. side, and return to Lewes by the old Lon- don road. In so doing, at the Offham chalk-pits he will pass the remains of what claims to be the first bit of railway executed in the south of Eng- land. It is an inclined plane for conveying the lime or chalk to the stream of the Ouse. Beyond, on the side of the downs, is Coombe Place (Sir Henry Shifther). In Eamsey Church (early Peqj.), which overhangs the bed of the river, is a rich Easter sepidchre (?) in the N. wall. The marl bank at the foot of Sussex. Route 15. — Fletching. — Buxted. 277 the mound ou wMch the church stands is rich iu fossils. Some longer but very interesting excursions may be made into the Weald country N. of Lewes. Fletching, 9 m., may be reached Ijy the Newick road ; the retui-n to Lewes being througli Uckfield -and Little Horsted. The whole of tliis country may be commanded from the Downs above Lewes, so that the visitor may judge beforehand of the class of scenery he is about to en- counter. The drive to Fletching is through a richly wooded, pleasant country, but offers nothing to detain the tourist. Tlie Church of Fletching, one of the few in Sussex provided ■with a spire, is of great interest. It is the largest in the district. The greater part is E. E. The design of tlie large E. window is unusual. The tower is Norm., though not without some peculiarities which may indi- cate an earlier date. There is no staircase, as is also the case at Bosham. The double windows are divided by balusters with Norm, capitals, and the door opening into the chui'ch was a semicircular arch with zigzag moulding. The floor of the ch. has a gradual ascent from W. to E. The achievements sus- pended in the transept show the crest of the Nevilles (a bull's head) ; though in what manner that family was connected with this parish is uncertain. On an altar-tomb in the S. transept is a very fine Brass of a knight of the Dalyngrugge family and his wife, circ. 1395. On the jupou of the knight are his anns — or, a cross engrailed, gules. In the same transept is tlie altar-tomb, with effigies, of Rich. Leche (d. 1596). In the mausoleum of the Sheffield family (a continuation of the N. transept) is interred Gibbon the his- torian. The characteristic inscrip- tion is from the pen of Dr. Parr. Gibbon spent much of the latter part of his life at Sheffield Place ; John Hoh-oyd, the first Lord Sheffield, having been his most intimate friend. Sheffield Flace (Earl of Sheffield) was almost entirely rebuilt by the late Earl. It cannot be called good. The shields on the outer walls are those of the various possessors of the manor since the Conquest. The park is very fine, and contains some noble timber. In the house is pre- served the only good portrait of Gib- bon, painted by Sir Joshua for his friend Mr. Holroyd. Adjoining Sheffield is Series (Sir T. M. Wilson). In the woods, which then com- pletely surrounded tlie old church of Fletching, Simon de Montfort en- camped mtli the anny of the barons the night before the battle of Lewes, May 13th, 1264 ; and from this spot, after their fruitless negociation with the Iving, they climbed the downs at Mount Hariy. (See ante.) Maresjield, which adjoins Fletching, N., has a small Dec. ch. of no great importance. " It contains however some good ancient woodwork." (Hussey.) In the neighbourhood is Maresjield Park ( J.V. Shelley, Esq.). Buxted, the first village on the return road, is more interesting. The church, wliich standson Iiigh ground surrounded by trees, is E. E. with a Dec. chancel. It has a low shingled spire. It may be remarked that nearly all the Sussex spires occur in the Weald, as though to mark the position of the church by their elevation above the tree-tops. Over the N. ])orch is a figure of a woman holding a large churn, possil ly a rebus for the name of AUchoru. "Ou either side is a figure of a warrior carved in stone, having a shield upon his breast." (Ilorsjield.) In the chancel is the Brass of Britellus Avenel, rectoi-, 1375. The coped figure is in the upper part of a cross fleury. " Chris- tojiher Savage, both flesh and bone, lyeth graven under a stone," at the entrance of the chancel. 3 278 Route 15. — UcTifield. — Little Ilorsted. Sect.II. Near Buxtecl Cliurcli is an ancient building called the Hog-house ; from a bog carved over the door, with the date 1581. This was the resi- dence of the Hogge family; one of whom, Ralf Hogge, in 1543 cast the first iron cannon over made in England, snpersetUng the earlier hooped or banded guns. The name Hogge seems to have become con- founded with that of Huggett ; and HurigeU's Furnace, between Buxted and Mayfield, is still pointed out as the place where the first iron ord- nance was cast. ■" Master Huggett and his man John, They did cast the first can-non" — runs the local rhyme. Ralf Hogge was at first assisted by French and Flemisli gunsmiths, but afterwards " made by himself ordnance of cast- iron of divers sorts." The name of Huggett is still common among the lilacksmiths of E. Sussex. {M. A. Lower.') At Howbourne in this jiarish is another relic of the iron manufac- ture. The old hammer-post, an oaken trunk, Gg ft. high, still remains near the end of the pond, which has been drained. The great interest of these relics lies in the contrast they suggest between the present cha- racter of the country, quiet and tree- shadowed, and its condition in the days when anvil and hammer rang incessantly through all the Weald. At Hendall (N. of the ch.) is an ancient house which may be worth visiting. " On the E. is a circidar arch with pillars, in good repair." {Ilors- jield.) It was for some generations the residence of a family called Pope. Buxted Place (Colonel Harcourt), deserves notice for the sake of its pai'k, which is picturesque and well wooiled. Tlie Rev. Edward Clarke, fatlierof the traveller, was long rector of Buxted. The place boasts also of another celebrity, George Watson, the "Sussex calculator," who, in other respects all but idiotic, coidd perform the most difficult arith- metical calculations, and remember the events and the weather of eveiy day from an early period of his life. Vclifield, 2 m., stands in the midst of pleasant scenery, richly wooded and varied, like all this part of Sussex. The ch. has been rebuilt. The grounds of Copwood (Mrs. Streatfeild) are picturesque, and on the borders of a small lake are some masses of rock, characteristic of the Hastings sand, and resembling those on the common at Tunbridge Wells. There are others on an estate called the Rocks, between Uckfield and Buxted ; where is also a deep cavern iu the sandstone. Little Horsted, the next village, has a small Norm. ch. of no great interest. Is field (2 m. off' the road, W.), has a Dec. ch. with later addi- tions. On the S. side is the Shurley Chapel, containing some interesting- monuments ; Brasses of Edw. Shurley and wife, 1558, and of Thos. Shurley, 1571 ; and an elaborate altar-tomb with effigies of Sir John Shiu-ley and his two wives, 1631. The inscription is edifying, and should be read. The children by his first wife, some of whom " were called into heaven, and the others into several marriages of good quality," appear in front of the monument. The Shm-- leys of Isfield were a branch of the celebrated Wiston family ; and there are still considerable remains of their ancient residence, Isfield Place. The Shurley arms and mottoes remain over the door. The house was sur- rounded by a lofty wall, having a kind of watch-tower at each angle. This is probably earlier than the remains of the dwelling-house, now a farm. Comp. ComiJton Castle, Devon, which has the same external wall, and dates from the end of the 14th cent. In the ch. at Isfield, Gundi'ada's tomb, now in Southover Church, Lewes, was long preserved and mis- applied. (See ante.) Sussex. Eoiite 1 5. — Laugliton. — Xeichaven. 279 A drive of 5 in. through a vciy pleasant country will bring the tourist to Lewes, A second and shorter roiuid may be to Laughton and Ciiiddingly. Laugliton, G m. E., deserve,^ a visit for the sake of the remains of the old house of the Pelhams ; although these are not extensive. A single brick tower, to which a modern farm-house is attached, rises in the midst of a wide and almost treeless plain, the site of the ancient jjark. The house was built in 153i ; and the moat, siUTouuLling about 3 acres, attests its former uoportance. At the S. corner is a lofty building chequered by diagonal lines of darker brick, and terminating in a stepped gable. Here and in the maiu tower the arabesque is curi- ously mingled with trefoil-lieaded Gothic ; and the Pelham buckle, the famous badge assumed after the battle of Poictiers, is introduced on the walls and in the window mould- ings. From the tower there is a wide view over all the surrounding country. Laugliton has been the property of the Pelhams since the beginning of the 15th cent., and still remains in theu' hands. Their burial-place is in Laughton Church, which, how- ever, contains no monuments. On Culhrand's Farm in this parish (\Y. of the ch.) are two remarkable oak-trees, gnarled, shattered, and carrjang the mind back into the ancient world even more completely than the most venerable ruin of " stone and lime." Their ago is altogether unknown. The Church of E. Hoathhj, N. of Laughton, is for the most part Perp. The Pelham buckle occurs on the tower. On the S. border of the parish is Hulland, an Elizabethan house, long a residence of the Pel- hams ; the greater part of which, however, has been taken down. Waldron, still farther N., is in the midst of the wooded district. The ch. is Dec. and Perp. (See Ete. 17.) The Church of Chiddinghj, 3 m. from Laughton, conspicuous with its lofty stone spire, deserves a visit. It is mainly E. E., but the tower and spire are perhaps Dec. It contains the stately and somewhat unusual monumentof Sir John Jetferay, Chief Baron of the Exchequer temp. Eliz. Sir John and his wife recline on tlie tomb, whilst in niches on either side stand the figures of Sir Edward Montague and his wife, the daughter of Sir John Jefferay. A mutilated figure of a child kneels in front. W. of the ch. are eoirsiderable remains of Chiddinglij Place, the mansion of the Jetierays. It was Elizabethan and of great size. A branch railway from Lewes leads to NeicJiaren, 7 m., the ancient port of the Ouse, and now well known as the place of embarkation for Diejipe, between which place and Newhaven large steam-vessels ply daily. This route is the most direct between London and Paris. The steam passage is effected in about ii hom's. It was here that Louis PhiUppe and his Queen landed in 1848, ha\ing crossed from Tre'port in an open fishing-boat. The residence of Mr. Smith, who greeted him on his arrival, and whose name the ex-monarch " fan- cied he had heard before," may no doubt be discovered by the curious. Vessels of some size are built at Newhaven, which is said to be " the only port of moderate value between Portsmouth and the Downs." Its important situation has more than once suggested material improve- ments in the harbour, which still however remain to be effected. The little Norm. Church of New- haven, with chancel apse at the E. end of its tower, curiously resembles that of Yainville-sur-Seine {31. A. L.), one of the many Norm, resemblance* 280 Route 1 5 . — Bishopstone. — Seaford. Sect. II. on tliis coast. The cliurchcs of Southese and Pidtliughoc, between Lewes and Newhaveu, have round towers. Piddiugboe is famous in popular saying as the pUxce " where they slioe magpies," which oracular statement may be com2iared with another specimen of Sussex wit — " Heightou, Denton, and Tarring " (villages on the opposite bank of the Ouse), "all begins \vitli A." [Reaching Newhaven by rail, the toiu-ist may from thence extend his excursion to Bishopstone, Sea- ford, and West Dean. The Clmrcli of Blshopdone (about 2 m.) is very interesting. Tlie tower is in four stories, each diminishing about a foot ; in eacli lower stage is a single circular-headed window ; in the upper, a double window, with balus- ters; in the third, a circular window with mouldings. At the angles of the three upper stages arc circular shafts, without capitals or bases. The present tower-arch is circular. Norm., and low, but there are traces of a loftier one now hitlden in the roof. Under the stunted spire is a grotesque corbel table. Within, the chancel is in two divi- sions, the westermnost of which is not distinguishable externally from the nave. The arches are Norm, and E.E. There are traces of circular- headed windows in diiferent parts; the present are E.E. Remark the now closed openings in the chancel and nave gables. Similar ones " may almost invariably be found in the cliurches of tliis central coast district of Sussex." (Hitssey.) The form of the S. porch is imusual, and the outer angles exhibit long and short work. The capitals at the sides of the doorway should be noticed. Tlie ancient beams and king-posts seem quite sound. Over the door is a stone dial i^late, having in the upper part a cross and the name Eadric. (Comp. those of Corhampton and Warnford, Hants, and a remarkable dial at Aldborough, Yorkshire, which has the inscription — "Ulf het arerau cyrice for haumn and for Gunthard saula.") The church seems originally Norm, with E.E. alterations. The porch alone shows Saxon indications. In the vestry is a curious stone slab found during the recent restoration. On it is a cross with intertwined circles : in one of which appears tlie Agnus Dei ; in another, two doves drinlving, a favourite early Cliristian symbol. If early Norm., it .sliows Italian influence. {W. Figg, in S. A. C.) In the chancel is the monument of the Rev. I. Hurdis, Oxford ijoetry professor, d. 1801. Tlie verses are by Hayley. Seaford, 2 ni., is an ancient mem- ber of the Cinque Port of Hastings, and takes rank immediately after the 7 greater ones. The old harbour, now entirely closed, was the original outlet of the Ouse. It sufi'ered much from tiie French attacks under Ed- ward III., and later from the black death, which it .scarcely recovered, though it continued an " immaculate borough " until the days of Reform. The French, under their High Admiral Claude d'Annabault, at- tacked it in ] 5i5, when " the Pelliam did re-pel 'em," as we learn from his monument at Lewes. The church, dedicated to St. Leonard, a favourite patron of the Cinque Ports, is Norm, and E. E. Remark especially the carving of the central column of the S. aisle. The sculpture of St. Michael and the dragon, fixed above it, is of tlie same date, and was found in the churchyard. To the exterior wall are attached a stone cofiQn and cover, also found here. Traces of Roman occupation, urns and medals, have been discovered in the neighbour- hood. Seaford may jiossibly be the Mercredesburn (Moer-cryd, sea ford) of Ella's battle in 485. Into the ha- ven of Seaford, in 1058, was driven a Flemish vessel, having on board Balger, a monk of Bergue St. Winox, who, "fidelis fur et latro- bonus," Sussex, Route 15. — Went Dean. — Alfriston. 281 stole from the neiglibouring mo- nastery of St. Andi-ew the relics of St. Lewinua, one of the early British converts in Sussex. The position of St. Andrew's monastery is unkiaown. For the whole story of tliis pious theft, which is very curious, see Suss. Arch. Coll., i. p. 40. lu the garden of " The Folly," a house in Church Street, is a vaulted apartment of E. E. character. An early stone chimney-piece (in a build- ing attached to the Plough Inn) may be worth examination. Seafurd has some slight preten- sions as a quiet bathing-place, and will doubtless become in that respect more important. On the verge of the lofty cliff, a short distance E. of the town, is a ledge called " Puck Clnu-ch Par- lour," inaccessible except by a nar- row path from above. There are 3 platforms, each a few feet square, " now the abode of a pair or two of old foxes, who find here a most secure retceat from dog and hunter, and are occasionally visited by the raven, the chough, sea-gull, and peregrine falcon." {M. A. Lower). This is not the only instance in which the name of the " tricksy spirit " is connected with the sea and its belongings, as, for instance, at Puck Down, near Bournemouth, Hants ; Puckaster, Isle of "Wight, &c. At West Dean, ?> m., an ancient parsonage-house of the 14th cent, still remains, though now divide<l into cottages. It is built of stone and oak timber, having a spiral stone stair leachng to an upper story. The lower fireplace has been altered ; the upper remains as at first. Windows, mulUons, &c., all deserve attention. It was probably built by the Prior of Wilmington, a cell of St. Mary Grestein in Normandy. West Dean belonged to Wilmington. (Comp. Sore Place, Plaj-tole, Kent.) The church is Norm., -svith E. E. jjortions. The undulations in the clialk clilfs between Seaford and Beachy Head are known as the " Seven Sisters" — a mysterious number which occurs frequently in the boundary lists of Saxon charters, as " Seven Oaks," "Seven Thorns," &c. In these chfts peregrine falcons and ravens annually rear their young, " and the kestrel may be seen fluttering along the margin, or dropping over the edge of the precipice, on his return to his own Uttle estabhshment from a mousing expedition into the in- terior." (^. E. Knox.) The tourist may proceed, if he chooses, by Fristou and East Dean to Beachy Head and Eastbourne, re- gaining the Hastings railway at Pole- gate. The whole of this coast-road is picturesque, with the sea on one side and the downs close on the other. Fristou Place is for the most part of the 17tli century, and deserves ex- amination.] The Church of Ghjncle (Glyn, Celt, a vale), 53 m. from London, the first station beyond Lewes, is a sjiecLmen of the Grecian taste of 17G5, when it was built by Rd. Trevor, Bp. of Dur- ham. An obelisk in the churchyard has an inscription by Mrs. Hemans to the memory of two sous of Sir D. Wcdderburn. 1. is Glijnde Place (Lord Dacre) ; andrt. stretch away the woods and jolantations of Flrle Place (Lord Gage) ; both Elizabethan houses, and in the usual S. Down position, close under tlie hills. Firle Beacon rises behind. From 57^ m. Bericick the little vil- lage of Alfriston, about 3 m., may be visited. The ancient ho.stelry of the Star Inn well deserves notice. It is of the beginning of the 16th cent., and was probably a resting- place for pilgrims to the shrine of St. Richardof Chichester. On wooden ))rackets each side of the door are mitred figures, — one with a hind (St. Giles V), — and the other possibly St. Julian, the patron of travellers. Among other ornaments are St. George and the Dragon, and what is 282 Route 15. — Eastiourne. Sect. II. apparently a bear and ragged staff with a lion opposite. The house stands within the boundaries of Alciston IManor, belonging to the Abbot of Battle, by whom it may have been built. On the bracket of a beam in the parlour is a shield with I. H. S. on it. {M. A. L.) There is a mutilated cross in the village street. In the spring of 1843 aboiTt .60 silver Anglo-Saxon sceattas were found at Milton Street, close by, in a garden. At 61 m. Polegate, short lines branch to Eastbourne and Hailsham. Eastbourne lies about 4 m. S. Not far from Polegate the line of the clowns turns S., and terminates in the promontory of Beachy Head. From the station are visible the little churcli and village of Wilinington. There was here a Priory, connected with the Benedictine Abbey of Grestein, near Houfleur, to which religious house it was given by Kobert de Moriton, the first Norman Lord of Pevensey and the surrounding manors. There are some scanty re- mains of "Alien Priory" as it is called, now converted into a farm- house. The principal sitting-room was formed out of the chapel. There is a cellar, supported by a low hex- agonal pillar in the centre ; and the house-roof, vast and full of timber, is evidently that of the old building. The shattered gate-towers adjoining seem of the reign of Henry Yl. About 2 ni. off is a pond called the " Well Holes," the stew for supply- ing the brethren's "maigre" table. S.E., on the side of the Downs, is the so-called "Long Blan of Wilming- ton," a rude figure 240 ft. in length, holding a staff in either hand. It has not been " scoured " for many years, and is invisible on the spot, but is easily distinguishable at a distance when the light falls on it at a particular angle. There is a similar figure at Cerne Abbas in Dorsetshire. Both are near religious houses, and may have been the work of their inmates. Wilmington Church has Norm, portions. Some of the windows, as well as the arches and pillars of the S. transept, are com- posed entirely of hard chalk. In the churchyard is a venerable and most picturesque yew, 20 feet in girth where the main stem divides. The walk from Wilmington to Eastbourne, keeping along the crest of the Downs, will not be found an unpleasant one. A great sti-etch of country is commanded on either side. The pedestrian may, if he pleases, divert rt. to Jtvington, where the ch. tower has some peculiarities which have been called Saxon, but which rather resemble those of the Norm, tower of Bishopstone. In the wall of the belfry is a fragment of ancient sculpture representing the Saviour bruising the serpent's head. Eastbourne, however, will be ordi- narily reached by rail. The station is about half way between the old village and the newly erected " Sea houses." On the 1. between the station and the village, 1^ m., is Eastbourne Place, long the residence of Davies Gilbert, the well-known President of the Koyal Society. The Church, which deserves careful at- tention, is for the most part rich Trans. Norm. The chancel arch is slightly pointed, and depressed. The S. chancel has Perp. sedilia and a Perp. Easter sepulchre. The piers and arches dividing this from the N. chancel are Trans., and should be well examined. In the N. chancel is the monument of Davies Gilbert. His family name was Giddy, and that of Gilbert was assumed by him on his marriage with tlie heiress of East- bourne Park. Tlie Greek inscription on the monument was probably chosen by himself, as well as the words on the slab of the vault below : — " To fiiWov 7?|ei." The E. window lias some fragments of Flemish glass. The manor of Eastbourne soon after the Conquest Sussex. Route 1 5. — Bcacliy Head. 283 passed into the hands of the Badles- mere family, who seem to have built the eh. The Parsoncxje Farm-house and the Lamb Inn, both adjoining the eh., are ancient buildings, de- serving careful examination. Both have the reijutation of having been religious houses, but no certainty exists in either case. The farm is said to have been a house of Black Friars. At the Lamb is a remarkable vaulted apartment, and a refresliing bit of Eadcliifian mystery, in the shape of a siibterraneoiis passage leading toward tlie ch., wliich has only been explored in part. The Sea-houses, the Eastboiu'ne of Invalids and holiday-makers, are about 2 m. from the old village. Like other watering-places on tliis coast, Eastbourne began to be known about the beginning of the century. It has now some good houses and terraces; but whoever is in search of gaiety should go elsewhere. The grand recommendations of East- bourne are, its quiet, and the mag- nificeut stretch of sea, over which Beachy Head, at no great distance, looks out far and wide. In this direc- tion the walks about Eastbourne are full of beauty. The roads toward the old village are shadowed by elm- trees of unusual size. Eastward, a marshy plain extends toward Peven- sey. Many places of great interest iu this part of Sussex are accessible by rail from Eastbourne. Hurstmon- ceux, 9 m. ; Michelham, 8 m. ; and Peveusey, 5 m., are within driving distance (see post). The circular redoubt here, and the martello towers which dot the coast- line at intervals in the direction of Hastings, were erected between 1804-7, when a descent of French troops in tliis neighl)(jurhood was not altogether unexi^ected. Beachy Head, where our old com- panions the S. Downs leave us, is about 3 m. W. of the town. Its summit is 575 feet above the sea- level ; E. the view extends to Hast- ings, W. to the Isle of Wight. The coast of France is visible on a clear day. There are few grander head- lands on the southern coast, and few which have witnessed more fre- quent or more hopeless shipwrecks. These have been greatly diminished since the erection in 1831 of the Bell Tout Lighthouse, wliich the visitor will see on liis way. It stands on a point considerably lower than Beachy Head itself, but projecting farther into the sea. Close under Beachy Head is a cavern called "Parson Darby's Hole;" its two ai^artments are said to have been excavated with his o\vn hands by a former \icar of E. Dean, as a refuge for the shipwrecked, and partly per- haps for himself ; since Mrs. Darby is said to have been gifted with unusual powers of loquacity. On stormy nights he hung out a light here. Parson Darby's fioek, however, were by no means so humanely disposed as himself. " Providential wrecks," as the Cornishmen used to call them, were prayed for not less devoutly all along this coast, whose natives, says Congreve, " fattened on the spoils of Providence, " As critics throng to see a new play split, And thrive and prosper on the wrecks of wit." The lighthouse and better charts have gone far to diminish these prolits ; and smuggling, for which the coast was equally famous, has, since the establishment of the coast-guard, whose station is perclied on the top of the cliflf, retired to more solitary shores. The headland itself is the resort of numberless sea-fowl. From time immemorial a pair of peregrine falcons have built near the summit, and guard the lofty ledge on which their nest is situated with the most watchfid jealousy. " With the excep- tion of a few jackdaws who bustled out of the crevices below, all the other birds which had now assembled on tliis i^art of the coast for the 28-i Route 15. — Beadiy Head. Sect. II. breeding season — it being about the middle of May — seemed to resiDect the territory of their warUke neigh- bours. The adjoining precipice, farther westwai-d, was occupied by guillemots and razorbills, who had deposited their eggs, the former on the naked ledge, the latter in the crevices in the face of the cliff. Here the jackdaws appeared quite at their ease, their loud, merry note being heard above every other sound, as they flew in and out of the fissures in the white rock, or sat perched on a pinnacle near the. summit, and leisurely surveyed the busy crowd below." {A. E. Knox.) The sam- phire, which grows here in abim- dance, has more than once told a welcome story to tlie shipwrecked sailor, who, having gained the ledges from which it hangs, knows that he is above the sea-mark. Off Beachy Head, June 30, 1G90, took place the fight between the combined English and Dutch fleet of 50 sail, under Lord Toriington, and tlie French, of 82, under tlie Count do Jourville. The Dutch, after displaying wonderful courage, were placed in extreme peril before Torrington could come up to them. He at last succeeded in placing his fleet between those of the Dutch and Frencli, and thus saved the former; but retired after the first day's fight to the mouth of the Thames. For this, Torrington was committed to the Tower by King William — pleaded his own cause — was acquitted, and passed in triumph up tlio Medway with his flag flying. The king, however, could not forget the peril of his Dutch ships, and the loss of many of them, and Tor- rington's commission was taken from him. (See Marjiulay, vol. iii.) Birling Gap, \h m. W. of Beachy Head, was formerly defended, like some of the "gates " on the Kentish coast, by an arch and portcullis, some remains of which may still be traced. The visitor may descend to the beach by this gap, and re- turn to Eastbourne through the Cow Gap, which passes upward from the beach on the E. side of the headland. Tlie grandeur of Beachy Head and the adjoining coast will best be seen from the water : boats can rea- dily be procured at Eastbourne, and can pass along close under the chalk chfTs. " The Charles Kock," below the headland, is the solitary survivor of 7 liigh masses called the " Seven Charleses," the rest of which have gradually crumbled away. " When the Charleses wear a cap, the clouds weep," is the local saying. Among this wild coast scenery, and associating with still wilder smugglers, Mortimer the painter (born 1741) passed his earlier years. His father was Collector of the Cus- toms at Eastbourne, and the artist's favourite subjects, wild seas, wrecks, and gloomy caverns, the haunts alike of land and water thieves, prove, not less than his irregular life, how powerfully he had been influ- enced by his early surroundings. The foundations of a Roman villa were discovered here in 1848, S.E. of Trinity Church. The downs are dotted with tiimuli, and show many traces of early entrenchments. Between Eastbourne and Bexhill extends the sweep of Peveusey Bay, the coast of which is little else than a wide - spreading bed of shingle, aftbrding by no means easy walking. Wide, flat pieces of wood, shaped to the feet, and called "backsters," are here (and in jjarts of Kent) used for walking over it. "On this wild Ijcach the ring dotterel, or stone runner as it is frequently termed, deposits 3 eggs, which can scarcely be distinguished from the surround- ing pebbles; and many species of terns haunt it in great numbers during the sxunmcr months. But amid this liari'cn waste, like an oasis in a desert, a cluster of green, furze-covered hillocks suddenly ap- Sussex. Route 15. — Michelham Ft lory. 285 pears, intersected ^Yith little fresh- water lakes, whose swampy banks, clothed with reeds and rushes, abound, diuing certain season, with many migratory birds of the gral- latorial and natatorial divisions. ' (^4. E. Knox.) A corner of this oasis is passed in driving from East- bourne to Pevensey, 5 m., an excur- sion by no means to be recom- mended on the score of beauty, though the interest of Pevensey itself cannot be overrated. Langney, aboiit halfway, was an ancient grange of the Lewes Priory. The chapel remains almost entire. Haihham (4 m. from Polegate station) contains nothing of great interest. The chiu'ch has a low pimiacled tower (Perp.) like those in some parts of Devon. At Otham, in the S. part of the parish, is a .small chapel of early Dec. character, now used as a stable. It marks the site of a house of Pre- monstratensiau canons, iirst settled here, and then removed to Bayham in Kent. A chapel of St. Lawrence still remained on the older site, and is probably that now existing. The remains of Michedium Priory, 2 m. W. of the town, are more im- portant and interesting. It was a house of Augustiniau canons, founded by Gilbert de Aquila early in the reign of Hemy III. The buildings, now converted into a farmhouse, formed a spacious quad- rangle, and are siurounded by a broad moat, covered with water- lilies, and a favourite haunt of the otter. Three fish-stews, commu- nicating with the moat, still remain usable. The moat is fed by the river Cuckmere. The present bridge seems to have replaced a draw- bridge; for the house was suffi- ciently near the sea to induce the canons to look well after their means of defence. The enclosure is entered through a square gateway tower of 3 stories. I Of other remains the most im- portant are a crypt, now used as a dairy, and an ancient apartment above it; probably the common room of the canons, though called the "Prior"s chamber." This has a massive stone fireplace, surmounted by a funnel projecting from the wall, and chvided into two distinct and equal parts, having a flat stone bracket on either side of the funnel. In this fireplace are two andirons of Sussex iron, terminatuig in human heads, the head-dress marking the time of Henry VII. All this por- tion is E. E. and part of the original building. Some mutilated E. E. arches near the present back door seem to mark the site of the chapel. The large parlour of the farmhouse is late Tudor, and has been secu- larized. A remarkable passage, ribbed over with short pointed arches, runs parallel with the crypt, and is called Isaac's Hole. It seems probable that it was the Latema, or place of punishment. (Comp. the Lantern in Lewes Priory, ante.) Owls in great numbers frequent the large roofs of the farm. The old priory mill stands without the moat, surrounded by a cluster of trees, and makes a pleasant ijicture. It was at Hellingly, 3 m. N. of Hailsham, where the Pelhams had a deer-park, that Lord Dacre of Hurstmonceux, temji. Hen. VIII., was hunting with certain of his friends, when a "fraie" took place, in which John Brisbrig was killed. For this Lord Dacre was subse- rjuently executed at Tyburn. His tleatli, so called — "murder," thought Camden — was caused by " his great estate, wliich the needj' com'tiei-s gasped after." They missed their prey, however, since it was foimd "too strongly entailed." (See, for a very diflerent judgment on this mat- ter, Froude, Hist. Eng. iv. 120.) Near Hellingly Park is an ancient boundary mark (?) called the Am- berstone. 28G Route 15. — Ilardiiionceux Castle. Sect. IL Ilurslinonceux Castle, 3 m., may be best visited from Hailsham. Waleran cle Monceu.r, the first Norman lord of the district, gave his name to tliis parisli and to Compton Mouceiix iii Hants. From an lieiress of this family tlie manor passed to Sir John de Fienes, whose descendants, the Lords Dacre of the Soutli, retained it until 1708, since which time it has passed through many hands, chiefly those of the allied families of Hare and Najdor. A ma- nor-house existed here from a very early period, proliably on tlie site of the present castle. This was built, temi?. Hen. VI., by Sir Roger de Fiene.s who had been present at Agincourt. It was entirely of brick, and was probably the largest jiost - Roman building of that material in England. It had fallen much into decay toward tlie end of the last century ; and in 1777, after an examination by Wyatt the architect, the interior was demolished, and the materials used for enlarging the present man- .sion (Hurstmonceux Place), on tlie W. side of the park. Tlie shell of the castle still re- mains, a very interesting specimen of the half fortress, half mansion of the latter daj's of feudalism. The valley in which it stands is .still beautiful, though the " wings of tlic blue hills covered with wood," which Horace Walpole ad- mired on his visit in 1752, have been deprived of the greater part of their timber. The actual site is low, and the building, " for the conveni- ence of water to the moat, saw nothing at all" (Walpole). It en- closed 3 courts, a largo and 2 small ones. The main gateway, a very fine one, is in the S. front. Above it is the shield of the Fieneses, with their supporter, the alaune or wolf-dog. The flanking towers are 84 feet high, and are capped by watch - tiu-rets, from which the sea is visible. A wooden bridge takes the place of the old drawbridge, "actuallyin being'in Walpole's time. " Persons who have visited Rome, on entering the court, and seeing the piles of brickwork strewn about, liave been reminded of the baths of Caracalla, though of course on a miniature scale ; the il- lusion being perhaps fostered by the deep blue of the Sussex sky, which, when compared with that in more iiorthernly parts of England, has al- most an Italian character." (Arclidn. Hare.) The walls are thickly co- vered with ivy, finely contrasting the red colour of the brick. Remark especially the great trunks of the ivy in what was the dining-room. The inner courts are carpeted with a bright green turf, and hazel-bushes have sprung up here and there be- tween the walls. The "Green Court" is the first entered ; and beyond this was the great hall, which had a central fire- place. Other apartments were ranged round the walls. The S. and N. fronts of the castle measured 206 ft., and the E. and W. 214. The kitchen, like the hall, was of great height, and had no ujiper story. The great oven of the bakehouse, 14 feet diameter, is worth notice. On the 1. side of the S. front, beyond the gate- house, was a long room which Grose suggests may have been intended for a stable in case of a siege. The small chapel (marked by its oriel) was in the S.E. front, and had some stained glass in Walpole's time. Some had been removed, and " we actually found St. Catherine, and another gentlewoman with a church in her hand, exiled into the butteiy." The " alaunes " of tlie Fienes figured in most of the windows tliroughout the castle. Up to the demoUtion of the castle, all the walls, except those of the principal apart- ments, remained " in their native hricl;]iooil." "That age had not arrived at the luxury of whitewash," says Walpole. Under the tower at the S.E. angle was the dungeon, " giving one a delightful idea of Sussex. liOule 13. — Hur^tnionceux C/i urea. 287 living iu the days of soccage, and under such goodly teuui-es." {Wal- 2)ole.) In Grose's time a stone post Avith a large chain still remained in the centre. Over the porter's lodge was a room called the " Drummer's Hall," in which, says tlic tradition, a chest containing treasure was hid- den, and guarded by a supernatural drummer, the sound of whose dnnn was occasionally heard at midnight. Addison's comedy of ' The Drum- mer' was " descended from it," says Walpole ; but there are similar stories in Baxter's ' Invisible "World" and other such collections. The unearthly driuu of Hurstmonceiix is said to have been the invention of a gardener, who sounded it in the interest of certain smugglers by whom the castle was frequented. The winding stairs wliich communi- cated with the upper galleries are ciuious, and should be examined. Some carvings by Grinling Gibbons, formerly in the castle, and noticed by "Walpole, are now preserved at Hurstmonceux Place. The moat, which surrounded the castle, spread out on the E. side into a large pond. This was drained early in Elizabeth's reign, and formed into a pleasauuce, of which only traces remain. A row of grand old Spanish chesnuts beyond the moat are, it is said, of greater anti- quity than the castle, and may pos- sibly have shadowed the walls of the earlier building. The visitor should make the cir- cuit of the castle without the walls as far as possible. The exterior of the W. side is especially striking. Hurstmonceux Cluu-ch was for- merly connected with the castle by "a brave old avenue" "up which," says Walpole, " we walked, with ships sailing on our left hand the whole way." The ships are 6 miles off, however, and the avenue has now entirely disappeared ; but the church .should on no account be left ini- visited. It stands on high groiuid. commanding distant views of Bcacliy Head ; and under the great church- yard yew are a cluster of tomb crosses, which alone would give in- terest to the spot; those of Archd. Hare, rector of Hurstmonceux, d. 185.5, with whose name " Hurstmon- ceux may well be proud, as it may well ))e thankful, to have its name, its people, and its scenery associated" ( Quart. Rev.) ; liis brother Marcus Hare ; Caroline Deimling ; and others. Archd. Hare's first curate here was John Sterling, who has had the good fortune to obtain two dis- tinct biographies,— by Hare, and Carlyle. The ch. itself is mainly E. E. : on the caps of the circidar columns are palm-leaves, marking that the build- ing is early in the style, if it should not rather be called Trans. The E. window, tilled with medallions from the life of Our Lord, is recent, and a memorial of the Archdeacon. Adjoining, between the main chancel and the "Dacre" chantry, is the very striking tomb of Thomas Fienes, 2nd Lord Dacre (d. ISS-i), "all in our tre- foil taste," says "Walpole. From its position the recumbent effigies (those of Lord Dacre and his son, who died before him) receive peculiar effects of light. Their feet rest on alaunes, the badge of their house ; and the grey, time-worn look of the stone canopy, rich with carved work, com- bines to heighten the solemnity of the sleeping figures below. The mantling of the helmets in the canopy is re- markable, and the details of the entire monument deserve careful examina- tion. There is very little of any Italian mixture, such as is so marked in the scarcely later Delawarr tombs at Broadwater and Boxgrove. Lord Dacre's will provides that this monument should be used as the Easter sepulchre. The niches at the ends probably contained the figures of patron saints. The greater part of the tomb is of Petworth marble, the rest is Caen stone. 288 Route 15. — Pevsnsei/. Sect. 11. On the pavement is the tine Brass of Sir William Fienes, li05. Against the chancel wall is a monument by Kessels, a Flemish sculptor, who died at Rome, wliere the work was exe- cuted, in memory of tlie mother of Archd. Hare, Mrs. Naylor of Hurst- monceiix Place. The modern Hurstmonceux Place, above the castle, is the residence of H. M. Curteis, Esq. From Hurstmonceux the tourist may descend on the Hastings Railway at Pevensey Station, and visit the castle there (see 2^°^0' or he may proceed liy Ashburnham to Battle, aljout 10 m. (See Rte. 17.) After leaving the Polegate Station the railway enters the so-called " Lowy" (leuca) of Pevensey, the dis- trict suiTounding the ancient castle, — once dotted with low islands, — in a wide bay of the sea, and now a tract of green marshland. Hidney, INIankseye, Horsey, Northey, and Langney, all terminating with the Saxon " ey," ig (island), are still the names of slight eminences in these marshes ; and another such island was 65 m. from London, — Pevensey, (Peofn's Island), where the archseo- logist may enjoy such a day of dreams and explorations as rarely falls to the lot of the most ima- ginative of Oldbucks. The castle is about 5 m. distant from the ter- minus. In approaching it, the round towers of the Decuman, or western gateway, are first seen ; and when the gate is passed the tourist finds liim- self confronted by the mediaeval castle of the " Eagle Honour," rising witliin the walls of a Brito-Roman city, — for there can no longer be the sliglitest doubt that Pevensey is the ancient Anderida. Full and most careful historical notices will be found in Mr. Lower's ' Chronicles of Pevensey.' Only the most important can be referred to here. Anderida, so called from the great Andredes-weald, or forest of Andred, which covered all this ]>art of Sus- sex (the name, according to Dr. Guest, signifies the "uninliabited dis- trict," — from an, the Celtic negative particle, and tred, a dwelling), was one of the great Roman fortresses un- der the command of the Count of the Saxon Shore. Some years after 477, when the Saxons under ^Ella made their first permanent settlements on the coast near Chichester, they at- tacked Anderida, " and slew all that dwelt therein, nor was there one Briton left." {Sax. Chron.) — an entry whose simple brevity appeared to Gibbon more dreadful than all the lamentations of Gildas. (A longer account of the destruction of Ande- rida occurs in Henry of Huntingdon, 1. ii.) The site of this luckless city has been claimed in turn by no less than seven Sussex towns, and by at least one in Kent ; and wrathful an- tiquaries have debated the question with all the energy of Sir Arthur Wardour in the dining-room at Monkbarns. It has been eftectually settled by modei'n research, which, in addition to other discoveries, has proved the exterior walls of Peven- sey to be Roman. After the Conquest, Pevensey was granted to Robert do Moriton, the Conqueror's half-brother, who, " struck with the importance of the position for one whose interests lay between England and Normandy," built a castle here witliin the ancient walls. About 1104 the barony of Pevensey passed into the hands of Gilbert de Aquila, in which great Norman family it continued, with some variations, for about a century. Hence the name of the " Honour of the Eagle," by which the barony was subsequently known. The Earls of Warrene then held it for some little time. About 12G',) it was granted to Prince Edward, afterwards Edward I., and his heirs ; and it continued in the crown imtil Edward III. settled it on .lohn of Gaunt, who appointed Sussex. Route 15. — Pevensey Castle. 289 one of the Pelhams bis constable. Tbis family long retained the com- mand here. The later history of the castle is uncertain. Like many others, it seems to have been left to a gradual decay, after the gene- ral introduction of artillery ; and at the period of the Annada, orders were issued for the ruins to be " utterly e rased.' Fortunately this order was disregarded. The castle long continued, however, a perfect quarry for the neighbouruig district. In 1650 the parhamentary commis- sioners sold the materials for 40L to John Warr of Westminster, who left them untouched. The present " Lord of the Eagle " is the Earl of Burlington : and there is little reason to apprehend any further depreda- tioiis on the venerable fortress thus preserved, "fortuna rerum"'— for the ^'religio patrum" had certainly no hand in the matter. Pevensey Castle was besieged by Eufus in 1088, when Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, who had espoused the cause of Duke Eobert, held it out for six weeks ; by Stephen ; by Simon de Montfort, son of the " Fleur de Prys," the great Earl of Leicester, on behalf of the barons, in 1265 ; and again in 1399, when it was gallantly field out by the Lady Pelham against the combined forces of Sussex, Surrey, ;ind Kent, who attacked it on behalf of Richard II., Pelham, its constable, being a strong partisan of the red rose. On tliis occasion the earliest existing letter in the EngUsh lan- guage was despatched from Peven- sey by the Lady Pelham "to her trew Lorde," then absent with Bo- lingbroke (see it in HaUam, Lit. Hist. i. 71, and in Lower's Chron.). The castle siibsequently served as the prison of Edmund Duke of York, and of Queen Joan of Navarre, the hist wife of Hem-y IV., accused of emplojang " metaphysical aid " against the life of Henry V., and detained here nearly four years. After the picturesque appearance of the ivj'-grown towers, with their accomijaniments of shattered bridge and reed-grown moat, has been duly admired, and after a glance has been bestowed on the pictiu-e seen look- ing back toward Westham and Beachy, between the venerable entrance towers, the fortress may be examined more in detail, begimiing with the Eoman portion. This consists of nearly the whole outer walls; for although some Norman work ia observable on the northern side, the rest is still in the same eoncUtion in which it was found by the Saxon -Ella's host. The plan of the walls, neglecting the usual Roman square, follows the outline of the rising ground. " Hence the irregular oval and island- like fonn of the enclosure." At the period of tlieir erection " the southern and eastern sides doubtless occupied a sort of low clift", washed at every tide by the waters of the ocean, or at least a considerable arm of the sea. On the other sides the ground, tliough not so precipitous, rises more or less from the general level of the siu'- ruunding marsh." {M.A.L.) The walls average about 12 feet in thick- ness, and between 24 and 30 in height, spite of the changes of 1600 years. " The mark of the trowel is still visible on the mortar, and many of the facing stones look as fresh as if they had been cut yesterday." (Wright.) The material is flint, with sea-sand mortar ; the facing, squared sandstones, with bonding courses of red tiks. The mortar has the usual red tint (from the pounded tiles mixed with it) of Roman work. The walls are strengthened at intervals by solid buttress towers, which every- where stand singly, except at the W. entrance. The principal tower on the N. side has some remarkable Norm, additions, no doubt part of the works of Robert de Moriton. Remark the far greater nideness of tlie masonry, " as base as the Roman 290 Route 15. — Pevedsey Castle Sect. 11. is excellent." A nule Norm, win- dow remains, no doubt a watch- tower, commanding the whole of the marshes and weald ; some Norm, work also appears in the next tower eastward. W. of both these towers, and also W. of a portion of the wall that has fallen outward, is a little postern gate, " which does not pass at right angles through the wall, but by a singular winding course, — ob- viously for better defence." The ex- cavations which were undertaken here in 1852 proved that the towers of the great W. gateway had origin- ally been connected by a wall, an archway in which formed the en- trance. The whole of the area, it also appeared, had been covered -uith a bed of stiff" red clay to a depth of many feet, and debris of various kinds, accumulating on this, had raised the surface within so greatly, that the walls in some places are little more than breast high. This elevation, on the E. side, seems to have been purposely made. Tlie visitor will do well to walk round the walls without, as well as within, the area. The area, exclusive of the me- diaeval castle, contains about 8^ acres. The Koman coins that have been found here are mostly of the a^ra of the Constantines, a proof that this was the most flourishing period of Anderida. On the bank overlooking the S. wall are two jneces of ordnance of the IGth cent. These are probably the identical "two demi-culverings of small value," mentioned as being in the castle of "Pemsey," in a survey of the Sussex coast made in 1587, in anticipation of the Spanish invasion. The castle of the " Eagle " rises massive and grand within this Eoman castrum. The gateway towers, look- ing towards the Decuman gate, have, says Mr. Wright, "evidently been imitated by tlie mediajval architect from the Koman models before him." The castle is no longer accessible by this gateway, however, and must be entered from behind, — by a path nearly opposite the church. Five towers, built of Eastboiuiie or green sandstone, surroiuid the court. One of these, on the E. side, was elevated on an artificial mound, and ftirmed the keep. That of the N.W. angle is said to have been the residence of the governor. Eemark in the gate- way towers the arrangement for the portcullis and drawbridge. The entire castle dates from about the end of the 13th cent, at which time it was in the hands of the crown, though some traces of the original Norm, work may be observed about the gateway. At the S.E. angle the Eoman wall of Anderida has been very skilfully connected with the castle, and a small .sallyport opens on the toj) of one of the Eoman towers, which remains firm althougli curi- ously bent forward. Within the court, S. of the N.W. tower, stood a small cliapel, of which the founda- tions are still traceable. Still farther S. is the well of the fortress, 50 ft. deep, and very solidly constructed. In emptying it, during the recent ex- cavations, numerous masses of green sandstone, supposed to have been catapult balls, were found, together with some skulls of wolves, the ancient " burgesses " of the wood of Andred. Within this court the Sussex Archaeological Society was inaugurated in July 1846. A tliird historical association, cer- tainly not less interesting than those belonging to the Eoman fortress and to the castle, is connected with Pc- vensey : it was here that William of Normandy landed a fortnight before tlie battle of Hastings, Sept. 28th, 10G6. The disembarkation from 600 vessels, the number of his licet, no doubt extended along all the bay from Pevensey to Hastings; but it was at tills spot that William's own landing took place, as it is depicted in the Bayeux tai)cstry. " Hie Wil- Sussex. Route 15. — Pi evensey. 291 lelm' venit ad PevenessB." The duke came ashore last of all, and, in setting his foot on the sand, fell for\yard on his face. "A bad sign," muttered the soldiers ; but " Par la resplendor De," cried William, as he rose, "I have seized the land -svith my two hands, and, as much as there is of it, it is ours." The army marched for- ward without delay to Hastings. On his retui'n to Normandy in the following year, the Conqueror again sailed from Pevensey, accompanied by many English nobles ; and here he distributed presents of all kinds to his anxious followers. The actual site of the lantling is now ^jrobably covered by marsh ; but Beachy Head still stretches out seaward — the long line of the downs is still dappled and cloud-swept, just as William must liave seen it - the first heights of the English land looked on by their destined conqueror. The Roman walls of the fortress, too, must have been seen by the Nor- mans nearly as we see them now. The ancient harbour of Pevensey was of coiu'se the origin as well of the Roman castrum as of the selec- tion of the ijlaee for William's land- ing. An earlier and even more important lantling, that of Caesar, has been fixed by Professor Airey at Pevensey {Archxologia, vol. xxxiv.) ; but although the Professor's argu- ments are of great interest, it seems far more probable that the real scene of this first invasion of Britain was Deal (See Rte. 10). The harbour here was formed by tlie mouth of the Ashbourne river, navigable for small vessels as high as Pevensey bridge, until about 1700. The accumulation of sand and shingle has destroyed the harbour ; but Pevensey is still a member of the Cinque Ports, and rejoices in an ancient corporation seal witli the usual Cinque Port emblems, and an invocation of St. Nicholas, the patron of tlie port. Pevensey was a " limb " of Hastings. Its "barons," as the freemen of all the Cinque Ports were called, were men of no small importance ; and their chief magistrate is the hero of numberless jokes, which are perhaps quite as applicable elsewhere. " TJiough Mayor of Pevensey, I am still but a man," said one of unvisual huniilit}'. Most of these stories seem to be the invention of Andrew Borde, one of Henry VIII. 's phy- sicians, and the original "Merry Andrew." Borde was a native of Sussex and probably of Pevensey, and his "tales of tlio wise men of Gotham" were either picked up or invented among the freemen of this ancient port. {M. A. Lower.) The usual Cinque Port privileges ex- isted here. Criminals were dro^STicd in tlie haven. The Church, of Pevensey is E. E. ; octangular piers are varied with clustered columns, the capitals of which are richly foliated. There are mehcs for images in one or two of the colmnns. The general effect is not improved by a range of singu- lar hat-stands, brandishing their arms between each pier ; nor are the hxgubrious arrangements about the conununion-table more to be com- mended. The chancel-areh is un- usually fine. The chancel itself, with its lancets, must have been verj' striking when entire, but is now cut in two by a wooden partition, and the E. part unused. There is a James I. monument, with an effigy, for Jolm Wheately, of an ancient Pevensey family. The position of the tower at the N. side, between nave and chancel, is unusual. There are traces of a chantiy beyond. The church is dedicated to St. Nicholas — the patron of the port, and greatly venerated by Lanfranc and the Nor- mans—probably with a reference to Pope Nicholas, ^yho first employed tlie Normans in Apulia, ami sent William his consecrated banner. It is interestmg to find a St. Nicholas Chui-ch here, on the scene of Wil- liam's landing. 292. Route 16. — Brighton to Chichester. Sect. II. Tlie ancient prison, resembling an old cottage, still exists on the S. side of the village street. There is also an hospital, the date of which is unknown, called in old documents by the mysterious name of " Gorogl- towu." Opposite the castle is a toler- able country inn, the Royal Oak, at which refreslmients may be procured. Between Pevensey and the station ia the village street of Westham. The church deserves notice. It contains portions of various periods ; in the S. wall are some Norm, windows ; the chancel is Perp. with some frag- ments of stained glass ; the Norm. S. transept is converted into a school- room. From Pevensey the tourist may visit HurstmoHceux (see ante) by the Watling road, about 6 m. The railway, passing close under the old castle, keeps in constant view of the sea, witli its line of martello towers, until it reaches 71| m. BexhlU. The village stands on an eminence a short distance above the station. Of the Church, the nave is Norm ; the chancel E. E. The window figured in the frontis- piece to Walpole's Ann. of Paint- ing, vol. i., representing (according to him) Eleanor of Provence and Henry III., was prociired by hmi from this ch. at a time when similar robberies were not uncommon. It was formerly at Strawberry Hill. Richard do la Wych, the sainted bishop of Chichester, is usually said to have died here, biit his death really took place (1253) in the Maison Dieu at Dover, where he had rested whilst preaching the crusade along the coast. A submarine forest has been discovered on the coast here, from wliicli the sea is now retiring instead of encroaching. In the Church of Ilooe, a small village about 4 m. N.W., is some stained glass with the figures of Edwaril III. and PhiUppa, not unlike the window stolen from Bexliill. From Bexhill, still along the coast, the railway passes to St. Leonard's, and thence to 76| m. Hastings. (See Rte. 12.) EOUTE 16. BRIGHTON TO CHICHESTER. {Brijiiton and S. Coast Railway, Ports- mout/i Branch.') Hove 1 m., the first station from Brighton, is ui fact a suburb of the great watering place, to which it is united by a series of streets and squares. The old parish church is the fragment of a much larger one, wliich seems to have been Tr. Nonn. In a meadow beyond, are the ruins of Aldrington Church, of E. E. cha- racter. The sea, which has greatly encroached on this coast, is said to have destroyed the village. The principal points of interest in the neighbourliood of Brighton will best be visited from the town itself. The railway, which keeps the sea in view nearly the whole way, offers nothing to detain the tourist at any intermediate station, imtil he reaches G m. Ntw Shoreham (Inn: Dol- jihin), which gradually rose as the iiarbour of Old Shoreham (1 m. N.) became silted up. As one of the great liighways to Normandy, and one of the principal harbours on this coast, this embouchure of the Adur river became early of importance. John landed here on his return to England as king after the death of Cceur-de-Lion. The town fm-nished 26 ships to the fleet of Edward III. hi 134:6 ; but subsequently decUned, omng to the teUSSEX. Boute IG. — Shorcham. 293 encroaclimonts of the sea. It was ' from Shoreliam that Charles II. em- barked after the battle of Worcester, i and Ills 2)reservatioii at Boscobel. Accompanied by Lord Wihnot, he ! had crossed tlie country from his I hiding' place at Trent in Somerset to Brighton, where they met the captain j of the vessel which had been en- gaged for them, and which lay at .Shoreham. Thej- rode over to it early in the morning, and after wait- ing for the tide, at last lost sight of tlie "mahguant" English shore, Oct. 15, 1651 : the same day on which the Earl of Derby, who liad fled from Worcester witli Charles, lost his head on the scaftbld at Bolton. The king was safely landed at I'ecamii. After the restoration, the vessel in which he crossed was brought by Captain Tattersall into tlie Thames, "where it lay some months at anchor before Whitehall, to renew the memory of the happy service it had performed." How far Captain Tattersall suc- ceeded in renewing the king's very slippery memory, does not appear. Shoreham haven has recently been much improved ; but although the waters within expand laterally to a great extent, the mouth is uaii-ow, and cannot be entered by large vessels Imt at high tide. A suspen- sion bridge, built over the Adur, at the expense of the Dulce of Xorfolk, in 1833, has done much for the town. Much sliip-building goes on here, and there is a coiisidera])le ti-ude with France. The main objects of interest, however, here and at Old Shoreham, are the churches, which the archaiologist should by no means neglect. Both were probably erected by the great Braose family, the early lords of Shoreliam. New Shoreham contains portions of Norm., Tr., and E. E. It was ori- ginally a largo cross church, but nearly the whole of the nave has disappeared. The series of ]nirs and arches, including tlie Iriforium, in the limb of the cross [Kent it tSussex.'] whicli forms the present nave, is very interesting and varied, being somewhat later than Steyning, with wliich it may be compared. Tliose of the S. side are distinct E. E., the others perhaps Trans. Remark especially the un- usual pendant corbels, on wliich the triforium arches of the N. side rest. The leafage of the capitals througli- out the church deserves .special attention. It is still stiff, but the naturahsm of the Dec. is beguming to display itself. Note the palm branches, indicating tlie early cru- sade, and a cajiital in the S. transept, formed trom tlie leaves of some water- plant or large flag. A circular-headed arcading nuis dowm the Norm, walls of each aisle. The vaulting is E. E. The extreme E. end has a trijjle lancet al)ove cir- cular-headed late Norm, ^\^ndows. All this jKirtion is later than the ori- ginally central tower, the transepts, and the 2 remaining bays of the nave, whicli are all Norm. From a wea- ther moulding on the E. side of the tower, it would seem that the original cliaiicel was very low, " perhaps terminating in an apse like New- haven." The upper story of the central tower, as seen from without, is Trans, ancl has a later addition. Observe also the exterior of the E. end, which shows some curious patch- work, Norm, and E. E. In the nave is a good Bruss of a merchant and wife, temp. Edw. IV. Old ShoreMm Church, about 1 m. N., is scarcely less interesting. It is cruciform, the 4 limbs being of equal length. This is the original cli. of the district. New Shoreham having liecn at first a chapel attaelied to if. It is almost tlirougliout Norm., and is " remarkable for the small nmnber of windows, and the consequent dark- ness of the nave ; as also for possess- ing, on the tie beams of the cliancel, tlie tootli moulding, which is very rarely found carved in wood." (lliisneij.) The lower arches are very highly enriched. Eemark the 291 Route IG. — Wortldng. — Broadwater. Sect. TL peculiar oT)lonf^ window in the S. transept, with its exterior zigzag bor- dering. This chureli has been care- fully and well restored by Mr. Ferrey. From Shoreham an excursion may be made to Steyning, AViston, and Chanctonbury Eing ; or the journey may be prolonged to Storrington, where is a good iiui, and from whence Parham and Amberley may be vi- sited. (For all these places see Etc. IS.) The large building on tlic hill at, 8 m.. Lancing is St. Nicholas Col- lege, a scliool for the lower middle classes, forming pai't of a large and excellent scheme which comprises 3 grades of schools : — 1. For the education of upper classes at Shoreham (in fact, a gram- mar school), at 40', a-year ; 2. For sons of farmers at Ilurst- pierpoint (see Etc. 1 4), at 23/, ; and 3. For sons of small traders, at Lancing, at 14/. The wliole scheme, of wliich the Lancing division is not tiie least important, has been esta- blished under the sanction of the Bishops of tlie Church of England. The college here is not yet (1857) completed, biit will aft'ord accom- modation to 1000 boys. Tlie views from it are good, and from the downs beyond a wide stretch of coast is commanded. Ijancing possibly de- rives its name from ^]'Iencing, one of the sons of Ella, founder of the S. Saxon kingdom. Proceeding onward along the coast, the tourist soon reaches lO^m. Wortlihig (Inns: Sea-House Hotel, Marine Hotel ; Stejaie Hotel), a pleasant, broad-streeted watering place, " discovered" some time before Brighton, but not destined to attain the dimensions of that marine London. There is good battling at Worthing, and a sea-side walk along tlie esplanade, raised above the f^hingle, from wliich in clear weather the line of coast is visible from Beachy Head to the Isle of Wight. All the usual watering - place " agre'mens " will be found duly pro- vided. The sea-weed at low water is said to be more than usually an- noying at Wortldng ; but the climate is milder than that of Brighton, and consequently has its recommenda- tions for a certain class of invalids. The town itself was a mere fishing village until about the year 1800, when it Ijegan to rise in importance. It contains notliiiig to detain the ordinary tourist ; but the neigh- bourhood has many points of in- terest, which may be visited from here. The churches of Broadwater and Sompting are within a indh. Broad- loater, 1 m., is Trans. Norm., nearly of the same date as Steyning, and very rich. There is some good wood- work. Eemark outside the N. wall a cross wrought in flint. The palm branch occurs here as at Shoreham. In the N. chancel is a fine Brass of Jolui Mapletou, Chancellor to Mar- garet of Anjou, d. 1432, and an elabo- rate tonil) in Caen stone for Thomas Lord la Warre, d. 1526. The same mixture of Italian and Gotliic occurs here as in the tomb of the 2nd Lord la Warre (1532) at Boxgrove, and the design was probably fur- nished by the same person. In the S. transept is another and similar monimient for the 3rd Lord la Warre, d. 1554. This has been lately re- stored, together with the entire building. OffingtoH (J. F. Daulniry, Esq.), the ancient residence of the Lords de la Warre, lies about 5 m., W. of the village. Tlie house has been much altered, and has at present no great interest. In the neighbourhood is Charman Dean (Mrs. Thwaytes). A field pathway leads to the church of Som-pting, 1 m. beyond Broadwater (the keys shoTild be inquired for at the vicarage before tliech. is reached), well kiio\vn as an arclijcological battle-field in the question of Saxon or no Saxon. Whether the shield be silver or gold. Sussex. Route 16. — Sompting. — Cisslury. 295 liowever, Sompting Church is so re- markahle as to demand the most careful examination. Tlie tower, with its peculiar gabled sjjire, greatly resembles those of certain early churches on the Rhine, wliich, it lias been conjectured, were directly imi- tated here at Sompting. The oh. consists of nave, chancel, and tran- septs. The portions said to be Saxon are the tower, and part of tlie exterior chancel wall (the E. end). Tlie chancel appears to be Norm, witli Peri5. windows inserted. Traces of the original circular-headed win- dows appear, however, in the wall. Over the altar is a double aumbry (tabernacle ?) — an imusual position. On the S. side is a triangular headed piscina with Trans. Norm, mould- ings. Below is a Perp. tomb, the occiipant of which is unknown. The N. transept, opening in a lofty cir- cular arch from the nave, is divided into 2 aisles, by circular pillars, with E. E. arches. The E. aisle is vaulted : remark the singular corbel face. The S. transept has a similar wide entrance arch. Trans. Norm. At the angles are pilasters with enriclied capitals. The E. end above the original altar has E. E. vaulting. This transept is 4 steps lower than the nave. On the walls are 2 remark- able fragments of sculiJture, — the Saviour with an open book, and the Evang.list emblems in the border ; and a kneeling bishop, under a cir- cular arch, with pilasters of E. E. character, his crozier behind him. Compare the sculptures in Chichester cathedral, said to have been brought from Selsea. These are perhaps somewhat later, though of sunilar character. Tlie tower, ivithiii, has E. E. window arches, and a circular arch opening to the nave. This has a tiiple abacus (comp. Eartham and Amberlcy, both in Sussex), and a rounded moulding runs round the centre of tlie sotHt. Without, the evidence of its Saxon origin is found in tlie bands and pihisters of stone work witJi wliich it is crossed and re-crossed (comp. Wortli, in Sussex), and which were probably imitated in stone from more ancient timber erec- tions. The long narrow capitals of the central ribs should be noticed. Mr. Hussey considers the tower to be of 2 eras, the lower part Saxon, the ujjper Norm., since it has Norm, orna- ments, and " the continuation of tlio central rib has a slight variation fiom the line of that below." {Churches of Sussex.) Tlie whole of Bosliam tower should be compared. It should be recollected that a date much anterior to the Conquest, is in no case claimed for so-called Saxon buildings. The church of Sompting was at an early period granted to the Knights Templars. A portion of the manor was in the hands of the Abbey of Fecamp ; and is still known as Soiiiptiiig Atitiois. The house be- longing to it stands on the opposite side of the road, above tlie church, and is to be regarded ^^^th venera- tion, from the fact that Queen Caro- line resided in it for a short time before her departure for Berganii and the East. If the tourist be a good i;)edestrian he may continue his walk along the downs in the direction of Cissbury (Cissa's beorg) about 2 m. — an en- campment which, like Chichester, probably derives its name from Cissa, one of tlie sons of Ella. A space of GO acres is here enclosed by a single trench varying in dtiilh from 8 to 12 ft., and a rampart of considerable width and heiglit. It follows the oval shape of the hill crest, and was approached by roads on the E., iS., and N. sides. Although it perhajis bears Cissa's name, there is some evidence of Boman occupa- tion. Eoman coins and pottery have been found in a garden at the foot of the hill ; and in the centre of the fort the foundations of a building (prfctorium?) are traceable in dry seasons. On the W. slope of the p 2 296 Route IG. — Tarring. Sect. II. iircn are some circular pits varying ill diameter and de]jth, resembling otliei-s at the Trundle above Good- ' wood, at Wolstonbury, and at Hol- liugbnry. They have been called the ; sites of British villages, but their | use is quite uncertain. The views from Cissbury are very fine, and are occasionally seen under singular efiects, owing to the mists and the marine atmosphere. " In the dis- tance was Worthing .... like a ruined city, Balbec or Palmyra, on ; the edge "of the sea ; l)ut it might ^ 4is well have been a desert ; for it , -was so variegated v\'itli streaks of sunshine and of shade, that no one ignorant of the place could have ■determined whether it were sea or sky that lay before us." (Soufhey's life, vi. 32.5.) The camp commands the coast from Beachey to Selsea, and looks across the country to Portus Magnus (Porchester). It is the largest and most striking of the Southdown earthworks. Chanctonhury (see Ete. 18) lies about 8 ra. from Cissbury, IST.E. The tourist may walk to it the whole way across the downs. The views across the Weald N. are far wider and grander than those from Cissbiuy. The whole sweep of woodland is commanded as far as tlie Surrey hills. A carriage excursion may l)o made from Wortliing to Clianctonbury, Wiston, and Steyning (see Pite. IS), by ihc road leading through the narrow pass of Findon, seen stretching along under Cissbury. Findon Cluu-ch con- tains "two stone seats \nt\i a door between them ;" parts are E. E. Adjoining is Findon Plane (M. W. Richar Ison, Esq.) ; and beyond, Mnn- tUam (Marchioness of Batli). The whole drive through the hills is pic- turesque and pleasant. Storrinrjton, the point for visiting Parham and Amberley (see Etc. 18), may also Ije reached "from Worthing by tliis road. A second n-alk from \V(.)rthing may be made to embrace Highdown Hill, W. Tarring, and Salvington, ^\^th its memorials of the " learned " Selden. Highdown Hill itself may be more quickly and easily reached from the Goring station, 2^ m. In the walk. Tarring, li m., is first reached. The Church, which has a lofty spire, is partly E. E. (nave and aisles ; the nave very lofty, with clerestory win- dows ; the Perp. E. window deserves notice), and partly Perp. (chancel and tower). There are some frag- ments of old seating and a chest. The window under the tower is a me- morial to Eobert Southey, erected by his eldest daughter, wife of the Eev. J. W. Warter, vicar of Tarring. Since the time of Athelstane, Tarring has been a " peculiar " of the Arcli- bishoi^s of Canterbury ; and some portions of an archi episcopal palace still exist in the national school- house, which stands in the village street, E. from the ch. " The southern part is E. E., though it has e^^dently been altered. The original windows have light shafts, yntii capitals of foliage at the sides. These are 13th cent, work, but the tracery witli which tlie windows are filled is Perp. Tlie hall on the W. side of the building is Perp. and an addi- tion (the door may be original)." (Hiissey.) Tliis palace is tradition- ally said to have been frequently occupied by Becket, and the Jig orchard adjoining was raised from some old stocks in the rectoiy garden, sometimes said to have been planted by him, and sometimes by Richard de la Wych, the sainted Bishop of Chichester. The biographer of the latter saint distinctly asserts that he " grafted fruit trees at Tarring with his own hand." (Act Snnci. Aj). ill.) The fig orchard is at all events remarkable. It was planted in 1745, and contains 100 trees which pro- duce about 2000 dozen annually. There are otliers at Somj)ting, which place l>elonged to the Abbey of Fe'eamp, from whence in all pro- Ijability the first plants were im- ported. The opposite Norman coast Sussex. Route IG. — Sah-iiigton. — IL'gJidovra Hill. lias always been famous for its figs, and Fecamp (Fici Campus?) had a very ancient legend that the Sangraal (the vessel used by our Lord at liis Last Suj)per) was miraculously floated to the coast under the abbey, enclosed in the trunk of a tig-tree. (See Le Eoux tie Liiicij, H. do Fe- camp.) It is singuliir enough that a bird apparently identical with the Beccaflco (fig-eater) of the Gampagna, migrates annually to Tarring and Sompting aljout the time of the ripening of the fruit. The flocks remain five or six weeks, and then disappear as they came, seaward. They visit no other part of Sussex. A range of buildings adjoining the rectory, called "tlie Parsonage Row," aflbrds good specimens of domestic architectxire of the reigu of Henry VI. A field patli N., through the ciinrchyard, leads to Salvinriton, still in the manor of Tarring. At the entrance of Salvington Street is Lacies, the cottage in which Selden was born, Dec. IGth, 1.584. His father is said to have been a wander- ing fiddler. On the Imtel of the door a Latui tlistich is still sho^vn, which it is asserted was composed and carved there l>y liim when only 10 years old : — " Gratus, honeste, milii, non claiuUir, iuito, sedebis. Fur abeas, non sum facta soluta tibi." "Selden's learning," says Fuller, "did not live in a lane, but traced all tlie latitiule of arts and languages. ' He passed to Hart Hall, Oxford, in 1598, and tlierc is no record of his having returned in after life, to visit the " lane " in which his learning at all events first sprang np. His early education was received at the free school in Chichester. From Salvington, passing the ruins oi Durrinfjliiii Chnpel (without archi- tectural interest), over Clapham Com- mon, and by some pleasant, wood- bordered lanes, the tourist reaches IIi(jliiJovn. Hill, famous for the miller's tomb. The view from the hill is inctiu'csqne and full of beauty, but is not so wide stretching as tliose from Cisslnu'y and Chanctonbury. An irregular earthwork, perluips of the same date, crowns the summit. Within it is the "miller's tomb," and his windmill formerly occupied the S.W. corner. The tomb is a flat slal> raised on brick-work, having on it rudely carved figures of Time and Death, and some edifying verses, com- posed by John Olliver the miller liimself, who erected his tomb 30 years before his death, and lived for the same period witli his coflin under his bed. Notwithstanding all this, however, he is said, like his famous brother of the Dee, to have been sufficiently "jolly," and to have looked with no unlriendly eye on the doings of the smugglers who theji infested the coast. He died in 1793 : and his coflin, at his funeral, was carried round the field by persons dressed in white, and attended by a company of young women attired like Tilburina's confidante, in white muslin, one of whom read a sermon over the grave. Tlie cottage on the N. side of the liill is on tlie site of tliat formerly occupied by the miller, and is now in the hands of his de- scendants, who supply tea, shrimps, and boilmg water to the numerous l)ilgrims of tlie hill. The Clapham Woods, below the hill, are fine. Rising from them is Cudlv Goring (Sir G. B. Pecliell, Bart.), long the residence of the Slielleys. Further N. is Clapham Churcii, Tr. Norm, with some Shelley tombs (1550) and brasses (152G). S. of the churchyard stands a large farmhouse bearing evidence of some antiquity. Fnjiii the station at, 13 m.. Goring, Highdown Hill may be visited. 15^ m. Aiiguicring has a small Tr. Norm. Cliurch. There were formerly 2 churches here, for East and West Angmering, close adjoining; that of 298 Route 1 6. — Littlehampton. — Arundel. h'ect. II. West Angmei-in,<x alone remains. Angimring Park (Dnke of Norfolk), in tlieN. part of the parish, has some fine woodland scenery. The colony of herons, llo^^ established at Par- ham, migrated from hero. At New Place in this parish (now partitioned into labourers' dwellings) were born on 3 snccessive Sundays the 3 sons of Sir Edward Palmer, all 3 knighted by Henry VIII. , and as remarkable for the circumstances of their birth, as the 3 Shirleys for their adventiu'es. At some distance rt. of the line is seen Putcham Place (Colonel Paine). In the parish of Poling, N., is a wild- fowl decoy belonging to the Duke of Norfolk ; and near tlie ch. was a com- mandery of the knights of St. John, the chapel of wliich has been con- verted into a modern dwelling. The Downs are visil)le all along the line, but on this, the S. side, they are less picturesque. The termination in " ing,'' which occurs so frequently in Sussex, and especially along the coast (Sompting, Tarring, Goring, Poling, &c.), is, it should here be mentioned, the Saxon patronymic, and indicates tlie site of a " mark," or Saxon settlement, founded by the tribe whose name is .still retained. Thus Sompting is the settlement of the Somtiugas ; Poling of the PoUngas, or "sons of Pol," — the Angl(j-Saxon name of the north- ern deity Balder. Tlie first part of the word preserves the name of the hero or deity from whom the set- tlers of the " mark "' claimed descent. For ample details see Kemhle's Saxons in England, i., ch. 2, and Appendix. At 18 m. the Arundel and Little- liampton Station, omnibuses are in waiting for either place. Little- hampton (about 3 m. S.) lies about f m. from the mouth of the Arun, but was the ancient haven of Arundel. The Empress INIatilda landed lure in 1139, on her way to Arundel Castle. It is still the port of the central districts of Sussex and Sur- rey, since it communicates, by means of a canal, with Arundel and Ports- mouth ; whilst the Arun, above Arimdel, has been rendered navi- gable, and connected with the Wey, thus opeiung a course to Guildford, and thence to the Thames. Little- hampton has lately become a water- ing-i:)lace of moderate pretensions. The neighl louring country, though level, is well wooded ; and the walk all the way to Arundel is through elm-shadowed lanes of much beauty. There are lure sands, along which carriages may drive, extending to Worthiiig. The river is famous for the Anmdel mullet, a fish which has attractions for bipeds of more than one description. The o.sprey, called in Hampshire the "mullet hawk," is frequently seen on this coast dm-ing the best season for the fi.sh. Baillies Court, on the W. side of the Arun, anciently belonged to the Norman abbey of Seez, and seems to have been so named from liaving been the residence of the bailifl'. The castle and town of Arundel are about 2 m. from the station. The road has some good points of view, one especially, from which the E. front of the castle is well seen above the river. The town consists mainly of one very steep street, momiting up- ward from the Arun to the castle, one of the ancient fortresses which guarded the river embouchitres all along this coast ; but its history, its striking position, and its lines of Fitzalans and Howards, whose bluest of blue blood cannot be outazured by Spain or by Germany, have invested it with a more than ordinary intere-st. The inliabited portion of the castle is never shown, the best excuse for which is to he found in the closo vicinity of so many watering places. The keep, far more interesting, is open to the public on Mondays and Fridays. Cards of admission are to be procured at the Norfolk Arms. Besides the castle, the objects of interest in Armrdel are the Church, Sussex, Route 16. — Anindd — The Castle. 299 and some scanty remains of the Hospice, or " Domus Dei," seen in crossing the bridge at the foot of the to\vn. The castle i^ark, and adjoining scenery of the Downs, are fuil of beauty, and deserve the most careful exploration. There is a large and good inn (the Norfolk Arms) in the town, where tourists may remain a day or two with advantage, and where carriages may be iDrocured for crossing tlie comitry, by Bignor, to Petworth — an excursion to be highly recommended. Arundel first occurs in the will of King Alfred ; and a castle here is mentioned in Domesday. The name (of course from the river Arun — probably a British word) has been ingeniously coiuiected ^^ith Uiron- delle, the traditional name of Bevis of Hampton's steed, which distin- guished giant was, it is said, long warder here at tlie gate of the Earls of Armidel, who built a tower for him, and gave him 2 hogsheads of beer a week, a whole ox, and bread and mustard in proportion. "Mor- glay," Bevis's sword, was long shown in the armoury, and a mound in the park is called his grave. "Heavy waggon horses in Sussex are still sometimes pleasantly called Swal- low." {M. A. Lom-r.) The earldom of Arundel, witli tlie castle, was con- ferred after the conquest on Koger de IMontgomery, who commanded at Hastings the central body of Breton and other auxiliaries. The position of the castle on this southern coast was an important one ; and the lands bestowed with it upon Earl Roger comprised 3 lordsliips, 10 hundreds with their courts and suits of service, 18 parks, and 77 manors. His 2 sons, Hugh and Robert, suc- cessively held Anmdel until 1118, when it was granted to tlie house of Albini. The last Earl, Hugh de Albini, died in 1243, without issue ; and the earldom then passed to John Fitzalan, through his marriage with Isabel, sister and co-heir of Earl Hugh. The Fitzalans held it till 1580, rather more than 3 centuries, when Henry Fitzalan, last carl, died, leaving only one surviving daughter, Mary, wlio b}' her marriage with Tliomas Howard, 4th Duke of Nor- folk, brouglit the Earldom of Arundel to that famous house, in which it has ever since remauied. Henry Howard, son of the 5th Earl of the Howard family, siicceeded to the Dukedom of Norfolk, and died (7th Duke) in 1701. The present (13th) Duke is Premier Duke and Earl, and Here- ditary Earl Marshal of England. Arundel Castle was first besieged in 1102 by Henry I., to whom it was surrendered by Robert de Belesme, son of Roger tlae first Norman Earl. In 1139 the Empress Maud was re- ceived here bj' her step-mother, Alice of Louvain, widow of Henry I. The castle was at once besieged by Stephen, and the Empress retired to Bristol. The third and most im- portant siege was tliat by tlie Parlia- mentary troops under Sir W. Waller in Dec. 1G43. This lasted 17 days, and the castle was finally surren- dered on Jan. 6. " We have taken," wrote Waller to Essex, " 17 colours of foot, and 2 of horse, and 1000 prisoners one with anotlier. " During the siege, artillery played on the castle from tlie steeple of the cliurch, and the greater part of the building was reduced to a mass of ruin. It remained neglected and all but de- serted until 1720, when the 8th Duke of Norfolk repaired some por- tions, in which he occasionally re- sided. The present building, how- ever, was erected by the lOtli duke, and commenced in 1791. For the most part, the duke seems to have been his own architect. All that can be said for the result is, that the designs are not worse than other Gothic of that period. There is of coru'se a jumble of styles ; but a certain gi'andeur is produced ))y tlic great masses of building. Figinxs of Hospitality and Liberty surmount 300 Route 16. — Arundel Castle. Sect. il. the entrance, and against one of tlio walls is placed a surprising bas-relief representing ' Alfred instituting trial by jury on Salisbury Plain!" The interior, which is quite inaccessible to ordinary toiu-ists, was also arranged and designed by the 10th Duke. In the Great Hall are 8 or modern painted windows, represent- ing the signing of Magna Charta, and figures of the Barons connected with it. Tlie enamel with wliicli tliey are loaded gives them much the eft'ect of coloured blinds. Tlie Library is lined tln-oughout with ma- lioganj', and is fitted with bookcases of tlie same wood — lieavy in spite of its splendour. The most remarkable pictures wiiich the Castle contains are the fol- lowhig portraits : — Cliristinc, daugli- ter of Cln'istian II. of Denmark, and widow of Francesco Sforza, Duke of Milan : Holbein. This portrait was executed for Hemy VIII., with a view to becoming acquainted with the lady's charms liefore offering her his hand. (See for the negotia- tions about this marriage, Froiide, H. E. iii.) The 4th Duke of Norfolk, with staff of office, beheaded 1572 : Holbein. "Among the various ex- amples of tliis picture, this is one of the best." — Waagen. Hemy How- ard, Earl of Arundel ; Thomas Hnw- ard, Earl of Arundel, and his Coun- tess ; Thomas Howard and his son Lord Maltravers ; Henry Howard : Vandyck. Hemy Howard, Earl of Surrey (beheaded by Hemy VIII. 1547) ; whole length in black, under an arch, his liand on a lirolcen pillar : William Strute or Street, an artist who formed himself entirely on Holbein. Visitors to the Keej) must apply at the principal entrance lodge at the tojj of the town, where tlie modern successor of Bevis will receive their cards of admission. This lodge is a recent erection, and the arched gate- way of the inner quadrangle was commenced in 1809. Within tliis, on one side is the modern castle, and on the other a series of steps and narrow passages lead to the venerable Keep, the view of wliich from the quadrangle is striking. Tlie Clock Tower, tlu'ough which the ascent to the Keep commences, may perhaps have some Norm, por- tions in the lower part ; but the upper is much . later. It was the ancient entrance to the inner court, and abutted on the fosse without. Passing through this tower, those of tlie outer entrance become visible below. These were the work of Richard Fitzalan (d. 1302j. They are not accessible to visitors. Each tower has 4 stages, and souterrains 15 ft. below the fosse, the walls of which are marlctd witli rude draw- ings and inscriptions ; among them are tlie words " I pray to God if hit him please delyvere us all out of distress." The Keej:) is reached by a long flight of steps. The entrance, a square tower, with portcullis, grooves, and machicoules, is also given to Richard Fitzalan. Tlie Keep itself, although it ex- hibits some herring-bone masonry, has no pretensions whatever to rank as a Saxon building, although a date before the Conquest is con- stantly assigned to it. It is circidar, and to all appearance late Norm. (Comp. the Keep of Windsor.) On the S.E. side is a circular doorway, at present inaccessible, with Norm, moulding. The greater part of the Keep was faced wath Caen stone, now hidden by the ivy. The walls vary in tliickness from 8 to 10 ft. Tlie corbels and fireplaces in the wall within marli the position of the ancient chambers, which were lighted from the inner side. In the centre of the Keep a shaft descends to a sul)terraneous apartment, pro- bably tlie store-room of the garrison. " Tlie roof is pointed, formed of chalk, and strengtliened by ribs of stone ; the doorcase is distinguished by the flat label head, which is observable in the windows of the gatehouse. Sussex. Route 10. — Arundel Castle. 301 and the whole is evidently contempo- rary witli that strnctui-e." {Tivmeij.) Tlie raiuparts are gained by a wind- ing staircase. Immediately over the entrance to the Keeii is tlie window of St. Martm's Oratory (Norm.), commanding a wide view S.E. Ob- serve t!ie funnel-shaped machiconle in the tioor, for pouring lieated mis- siles on the heads of assailants. From the round of tlie ramparts a good notion.maybe obtamed of the strengtli and position of the castle — and of the Keep itself, the kernel of the ancient fortress. The mound is chieily artificial ; and the heiglit from tlie bottom of the fosse is 96 ft. E., 103 ft. W. The keep rises from the centre of the castle enclosures, a somewhat luiusual position. The entire si^ace within the walls is about 5.J acres. The general form of the castle, like that of Windsor, is oblong. The elevation on which it stands is one of the extreme spm-s of the S. Downs, hanging over the Arun ; and the tide anciently flowed nearly up to its walls. A sharp fall in the hill-side, fortified it natiu-ally N.E. and S.E. A strong wall prt)tected the S., and on the other side was a deep fosse, with a double line of wall. The same position may have successively seen British and Saxon fortifica- tions ; but the great strength and size of the present castle, and the care with which it was defended, are due to the importance of the site in later times ; when it guarded one of the great Sussex "liigh roads " to and from Normandy, and when the line of the coast was exposed to con- stant ravages from French ships and pirates. The views from the Keep stretch away on all sides, and amply repay the trouble of clindnng to it. Nothing can be more beautiful than the fleeting lights, as they sweep seaward across the plain through which the Arun winds, or along the wooded .sweeps of the upper park. W. the landscape extends to the I.sle of Wight, and the spire of Chichester Cathedral rises as a landmark in the centre. Highdown Hill is con- spicuous S.E., and further N. Brup- ham with its chalk pit. The plea- sure-ground lying within the walls, under the Keep, was formerly a garden. It is now disposed in Ver- sailles fashion with btrceaux and cabinets de verdure. An a2iricot-tree covers no less than lUOO ft. of the old Fitzalan walls. The barbacan tower at the corner is called Bevis's Tower. It is perhaps late Nomi. and has recently been restored as a sort of garden-house. There was a covered way communicating between it and the Keep. This was the loftiest of many square towers, open within like those of Dover, which strength- ened the whole line of the outer walls. The Keep is covered with a close netting for the sake of a colony of owls, which inhabit the niches and flreplaces. These are chiefly eagle owls (Bul)O maximus), an unrivalled living collection. " The fact that these l;)irds have here not only per- formed the duties of incubation, but even reared their young occasionally, the only instance, I believe, on record of any bird of i^rey breeding when deprived of its liberty, would alone prove their perfect reconciliation to the very qualified captivity to which they are subjected." {A. E. Knox). It is said that Lord Tluuiow (himself unknown) was once shewn a name- sake of his own among these owls. " We sometimes," said the guide, " call him The Chancellor, and some- times Lord Eldon, "cause he's so very wise." There are now here (1856) 11 eagle owls, and one woodcock or short-eared owl. The Bubo maximus is not an English species, though said to have been shot hi Sussex. The principal aparhnents of the ancient castle were of course situated I below the Keep, in the inner coiu-t. I Some ]iortions of these were biult by lUchard Fitzalan, present at Cressy i> 3 502 Routs IG. — Arundel Church. Sect. II. who applied to tliis purpose the ransom of his prisoners. Tlie Great Hall was bnilt at the same time. Hollar engraved a view of it before the siege, when it was entirely de- stroyed. Some portions of the an- cient buildings exist in the S. front and in the E. tower of the present castle. The vault under the last is prol)ably of great antiquity. It served as the castle dungeon. The Parish Chnn-h of St. Nicholas, with its sujierb Armidel tombs, is scarcely less interesting than the castle which it closely adjoins. A priory attached to the Benedictine Abbey of St. Martin of Seez, in Nor- mandy, was estaljlishcd in Arundel l)y the first Norman Earl, Eoger de Montgomery, founder also of the l^arent abbey. In 1380 Eichard Fitz- alan, the fierce opponent of Richard II., beheaded on Tower Hill in 1397, established the College of the Holy Trinity " for a master and 12 canons." The earlier priory of Seez became merged in tliis : and nearly in the same year with its foundation Earl Richard commenced the rebuilding of the parish chiu'ch, with which the chapel of this nev/ college was to be eoimected. The i3resent church therefore dates from 1380. It has a central tower, and the college chapel is at the E. end, beyond the chancel. N. of the former is the Lady Chapel, of nearly equal dimen- sions. In the N. aisle of the nave are 2 ancient wall painthigs, pro- bably coeval with the church ; one of which represents the Seven Deadly Sins, the other the Seven Works of Mercy. The quatrefoil clerestory windows are very unusual, and should be remarked. The other curiosities in the nave are the seats for the cor- poration and its ladies ; and wluit seems to be the ancient stone pidpit, encircling a pillar; now, however, converted into the vicarial pew, duly shelfed and benched, and not imcom- fortably cushiotu d. It lias 2 small arches opening in front, and a groined roof. The altar is in the S. aisle. The organ, fiUuig the old arch be- tween the Parochial Chmx-h and the College Chapel, is said to be fine. The chapel itself, beyond, is large and lofty, and has evidently been of great magnificence. There are 5 Arundel tombs in this chapel. The earliest is that in the centre, upon which are effigies of Thomas Earl of Arundel (d. 1415), son of the foimder of the college, and of his Countess, Beatrix, daughter of King John of Portugal. The horse at the earl's feet is the Fitzalau cognizance. The comitess's robe is guarded by 2 lapdogs. lu niches round the tomb are 20 figures of priests, each holding an open book ; and the rim is encircled by 40 shields, once charged with all the quarterings of Fitzalan and Portu- gal. This Fitzalan, who had been deprived of Ids inheritance by Eichard II., was restored by "Harry of Bolingbroke." Under the most easterly of the 3 arches which di\ide this from the Lady Chapel, is the cenotaijh of John Fitzalan, 17th earl (d. 1434). His figiu-e is in plate armour, with a close surcoat and a collar of SS. An emaciated body stretched on a shroud lies below. The earl hunself was bm-ied at Beauvais. He was taken prisoner, after receiving a mortal wound, during an attack on the Castle of Gerberois, near Beauvais, and died a few days after. S. of the altar is the very fine chantiy tomb of William, 19th earl (d. 1488), and of his countess. The effigies pro- perly belongmg to it lie on the tomb o]:>posite ; — that of Thomas and William Fitzalan. The dress of the Countess Joan is especially worth notice. The wonderful structvu'e on her head is rare in marble, and does not occur very frequently in brasses. Remark here the twisted pilasters indicating the approach of the Re- naissance, more completely developed in the De la Warre tombs at Broad- water and Boxgrove. This " puis- Sussex. Route 16. — Arundel. ]03 sante, noble, and virtuous carle," \Yas the pati'ou of Caxtou t!ie printer. On the N. side, opposite, is the tonib of Thomas (d. 1524) and William (d. 1514), successively earls of Armidel, son and grandson of the 19th Earl, William. It has a rich but much injured canopy. Above Earl William's Chantry (S. side) is a tablet in memory of Hemy Earl of Anmdel, last of the Fitzalans, who " pie et su.l^iter in Domino obdor- mivit," 1579. Tliere are no mouimients or in- scriptions for any of the Howard family, although many are mterred her& Among tliem is Thomas, 2ud Howard Earl of Arundel (d. 1646), the friend of Evelyn, and the col- lector of the Anmdelian marbles. His body was brought hero from Padua, where he died. These tine monuments deseiTC very careful attention, as illustrating the changes in art during a period of a centiuy and a half. Their shat- tered condition is due partly to the soldiers of Waller's army, who were quartered in this chapel durhig the .siege of the castle, and partly to the removal of the carved roof in 1782, when the heavy timbers were suf- fered to fall below at random. The Lady Chapel is divided from that of the College by 3 pointed arches. In the middle is the j^laiu altar-tomb, in Sussex marble, of John Fitzalan, 16th Earl. Its brasses have been removed. Adjoining is a good modem monument in black marble for Lord Henry Howard, brother of the late duke. It was executed in Eome. In this chapel, the original stone altar, with its crosses, remains. The window above has some fragments of stained glass, among which is a figure absurdly said to be that of " Jockey of Nor- folk." The Bras'ses still remaining, and worth notice, are, Sir Eden Ertham, 1st Master of the College, 14:32 ; and a Knight and Lady, 141S. Behind the Lady Chapel, a room opens to the castle gardens. The exterior windows and parapet on this side have been restored. The parapet is peculiar, and should be noticed. Similar care, it is to be hoped, will be extended to the in- terior of both chapels, the present comhtion of which is disgraceful to all concerned. Adjoining the churchyard are some remains of the college buildings, originally a quadrangle, one side of which was foinied by the chapel. The principal gateway, at the S. E. angle, remains. Tlie college oc- cupied the same site as the more ancient prioiy. It had the right of sanctuar}', and the register of Bishop Kede of Chichester contains the record of a very severe iJenance passed on the constable of the castle, for havmg forcibly removed a prisoner, who had escaped from his dungeon and seized the great sanctuary-ring attached to the col- lege door. The fragments of the Maison Dieu, at the foot of the town, need not long- delay the tourist. It was ibunded by Earl Eichard, builder of the church and college, about 1380. It provided for 20 poor men. The building, a quadrangle, with chapel and refec- torj% was destroyed by Waller's troops, who were quartered in it. The adjoining bridge was built from part of the ruhis in 1742. The whole seems to have been of chalk. Besides the Keep, toiuists are sup- plied at the Norfolk Arms with tickets for seemg the Baby. This, with ecclesiastical faim buildings attached, resembling small Norman chapels, is about ^ m. from the town, and was built in 1847. It is pleasant enough in itself, with white and blue tiles and a fountain, but is not worth a special visit. The stran- ger will do better to devote his time to the Parlt, liis wandeiings in which will be amply repaid. A gate opens into it, a short chstance beyond the dairy, and close to Swiaboume Lake, 304 Route 1 G. — Leominster. — Bognor. Sect. TI. a reed-growu piece of water of no great size. From the higher end of the lake is a fine view of tlie castle. The best point here, however, and nearly that from wliich Turner's beautiful drawing was made (Rivers ofEiKjland ; the drawing is now in the National Collection), is from the brow of the hill N. of the "Copyhold," nearly the highest part of the park. The Castle rises in the middle dis- tance, oak and beech woods sweep down over the heights to the lake below, and far otf the sea fringes the vride landscape, rich with homesteads and cattle-dotted meadows. Tlie park contains about 11(10 acres, and has " good store of harts.' The coinitry beyond ojiens to the high groimd over Bignor and Sutton (see post, Excursion from Cliichester — Bignor), whence the grand views over the Weald, N., are perhaps imrivalled in the south of England. At North Slolce, on the Aruu, visible from this part of the park, an ancient British canoe, made from a hoUowed oaken tnmk, and now in the 13ritisli IMuseum, was discovered in 1884, G ft. below the level of the soil, and 150 yds. from the liver. A second canoe was found in 1857, at Warruugcamp, 1 m. from South Stoke, in widening a ditch, locally called a " rife," leading to the Arun. Like the other, it is the hollowed truidf of an oak, with insertions at the edge, forming seats for 3 men. In the chalk at Burpham, 2J m. N.E. of Arundel, are found thin layers, " composed of an aggregation of detached ossicula of star-fishes." Tlie Qnu'cli of Leotainster, not far from the Arundel Station, deserves notice. It contains Tr. Xorm. and E. E. portions. " The chancel-arch is very lofty, with projecting abaci dividing the piers into two stages." {Uusse;/.) There was a small Saxon mumery here, whicli subsequeutly became a priory of Benedictine nuns, attached to the abbey of Alme- nesches, near Seez, in Normandy. From the Ford Station (2 m. from Arundel) may be visited Tortington Church (1 m.), which has some rich Norm, work ; and ^ m. beyond it the refectory of Tortington Priory, founded for Black Canons, temp. John. It is now a barn, and shows E. E. arches. 1 m. S. of Ford is the very interesting Church of Clim- piiig. It is E. E. with some pecu- liarities. There are circular windows (above lancets) in the W. gable, the chancel gable, and that of the N. ti-ansept. The chancel is large and striking. The whole seems to be of one date. The Tower, at the end of S. ti-ansept, is Norm., and appa- rently belonged to an earlier church ; narrow windows are opened in its buttresses. Eeraark the ornaments on either side of the door, — a small sunken circle and a diamond. In the chancel are two oak chests, one of w'hich, with very shallow cai-ving, may perliaps be E. E., and coeval with the ch. The Norman abbeys of Almenesches and St. Martin at Seez both held lands in Climping mider Eoger de Montgomery, and the church may possibly have been erected by one or 1)oth. The church at Yapton (1 m.), the next station, is mainly E. E., and has a singidar font of black gianite, cir- cular, with crosses on the sides. The tower has been considered Saxon, and should be noticed. [At Woodgate Station (3 m.) om- nilnises are in waiting for Bognor, which lies about -4 m. S. Bognor has a strong family likeness to the other small watering-places on this coast. It is quiet, and the climate is at least as mild as that of "Wortliing. There are the usual lodging-houses and hotels, the best being the Norfolk Hotel ; the Sussex ; and the Clare- mont. The surrounding coiuitry is perfectly iiat, Ijut there are some in- teresting points for visitors. Pag- ham, the Hushing Well, and Selsea Church may be visited fromhere. (See post; Excursion from Chichester.) Sussex. Route IG. — Chichester. 305 Close to the shore, and extending about 2 m. into the sea, are the so- called Bofjnor roclis, visible only at low water, and sandstone fragments of a deposit " which, even within the memory of man, formed a line of low cliffs along the coast. " The B((rn rocks, between Selsea and Bognor ; the Houndgate and Street rocks, W. ; and the Vivan rocks S. of Selsea, are portions of the same bed. The fossils are similar to those which occm* in tlio London clay. Some of the polished slabs are very beautiful." (Maufell.) At Felphaiii (about 1 m.) is the villa to which the poet Hayley retired after parting with Earthani. It stands toward the centre of the vil- lage. The church has portions of various dates. In the clun-chyard is the tomb of Cyril Jackson, dean of Ch. Ch., Oxford, and the early pre- ceptor of George IV., who visited him here when dying. Within the church is a marble tablet for Hayley, who was buried here. The inscrip- tion is by Mrs. Opie.] From Woodgate the railway passes through a rich level district to Cliichester (Pop. 8331. Ian, The Dolphin ; excellent, and not without a certain gravity befitting an episco- pal city). Chichestei-, the ancient Eegnimi, betraj's its Roman origin hi its 4 nearly straight streets, answering to the points of the compass, and meet- ing at the elaborate market cross, E. of the Cathedral. The town is quiet, and, with the exception of the catlie- dral and the cross, is distinguished by no marked architectural features. The view from East Street, lookhig W. toward the Cathedral, is, how- ever, very striking, and should be looked out i'or toward smiset. Other good points will be found in Canon Lane, and in West Street, beyond the cathedral. Chichester stands on a perfect level, and tlie only general views arc to be liad from the tower of the campanile, or better still, from that of the cathedral, where the city is seen spread out like a map, its red roofs intersected by large trees and gardens. An excellent distant view of the cathedral, l)acked by the Goodwood Downs, is gained from the road S. of the town, after passing the railway station. Berjnum, the city of Cogidubnus, king of the Regni, and legate in Britain of th.e Emperor Claudius, lies V>uried beneath the present city. iMosaic pavements, coins, and urns, occur in all directions. In the grave- yard of St. Andrew's Church, in East Street, the coffins are laid on an ancient tessalated iloor. The walls of the Church of St. Olave in North Street were found, on its restoration, full of Iioman tile ; and in this street also was discovered in 1720, the re- markable inscription now preserved at Goodwood, one of the most in- teresting relathig to Iioman Britain. It records the dedication of a temple, by the College of Smiths, to Nei^tune and Minerva, the two great patrons of handicraftsmen (see post, Goodwood) ; lint its great interest arises from its forming a link in the chain of evi- dence, whicli seems to connect Reg- nimi with the Claudia and Pudens of Martial and of St. Paul's 2nd Epistle to Timothy. For a sketch of the romance which has been built on these authorities, perfectly consistent with dates and with historical pro- bability, see ' Quart. Bev.,' vol. xcvii. Regnum stood at the junction of the Roman "Stane Street," running N. by Bignor toward London, with another line that passed W. to Portus Magiius (Porchester). Hence it wag at once attacked by the earliest Teutonic settlers, who landed on the coast 7 m. S., at a place called from one of Ella'.s sons, Cymensore (now Keynor) ; and its Saxon name, Cissa's master — Cissa's camp — Clu'ctiester, seems to have been derived from one of the 3 sons of Ella, the first recorded colonist of the S. Saxons. 306 Route \Q. ^-Chichester — the Cathedral. Sect. II. It is but little iioticed during the Saxon period. The Conqueror gave it, with S3 manors in the rajDes of Arundel and Chichester, to Roger do Montgomery, Earl of Alen90u, who built a castle within the walls. The ancient bishopric of the S. Saxons was at the same tune removed from Selsey, and a cathedral built at Chi- chester (see post, Selsey). The N.E. quarter of the city was appropriated to the castle and its belongings, of which no trace remains. The church- men had the S.W. quarter. The city walls were restored and repaired at different times, but were not of suffi- cient strength to enable Chichester to stand out for more than 10 days, when it was besieged by Sir William Waller in 1643. The Parliament troops were greatly favoured on this occasion. " Although it rained hea- vily half an hour after the town was taken, no ram had fallen while the besiegers were ' lying abroad ' pre- viously." The soldiers were thus in good heart for doing the work that followed. They "pulled down the idolatrous images from the market- cross ; they brake down the organ in the cathedral, and dashed the pipes with their i^ole-axes ; crying in scoff, ' harke how the organs goe ! '" and after the thanksgiving sermon, also in the cathedral, they " ran up and down with their swords drawn, defacing the monuments of the dead, and hacking the seats and stalls." This is the solitary event of import- ance in the later history of tlie city. The Cathedral is of com-se the iirst point of interest. " A very interest- ing pile on many accounts," says Southey, " and much finer than books or common report had led me to ex- pect." At the time of the removal of the see from Selsey, a monastery, dedicated to St. Peter, existed partly on the site of the present cathedral. The church of this monastery seems to have served for some time as that of the bishopric. A cathedral, how- ever, was built by lialph, the 3rd bishop. This was completed in 1108, and destroyed by fire in 1114. A second building was commenced, also by Bj). Piali^h, and nearly finished at.' his death in 1123. Much of this church still remains. The additions will be best pointed out in au archai- ological survey. The cathedral shoidd be entered through the W. Porch, very beautiful E. E., and like the S. Porch, which opens into the cloisters, and is of the same date, no doubt the work of Bp. Seftrid II. (1180 — 1204), by whom Ralph's cathedral was greatly enlarged and altered, and who, says Fuller, " bestowed the cloth and mak- ing on the church, whilst Bp. Sher- borne gave the trimming and best lace thereto, in the reign of Henry VII." In an elongated quatrefoil over the portal was the figm-e adopted as the arms of the see, commonly called a " Prester John seiant," but in reality the Salvator Mundi. This no longer exists. On entering tlie Nave, the eye is at once caught by the five aisles, a peculiarity shared by no other Eng- glish cathedral, although some parish chiu-ches have it on a smaller scale, as Manchester, Taunton, and Coventry. On the continent the increased num- ber of aisles is common : witness Beauvais, Cologne, Milan, Seville, and 7-aisled Antwerj^. Grand eifects of light and shade are produced by these 5 aisles ; remark especially the view from the extreme N. E. corner of the N. aisle, looking across the cathedral. Tlie great depth of the triforium shadows are owing to the unusual width of this wall passage. The cathedral is the broadest in England except York. The nave itself, and the 2 aisles immediately adjoining, are the work of Bp. Ralph, to the top of the tri- forium. The clerestory above, and the shafts of I'urbeck marble which lighten the jiiers, are Seffrid's addi- tions. The roof is perhaps somewhat later. The 2 exterior aisles, N. and Sussex. Route 16. — Chichester — the Cathedral 307 S., were perhaps added under Bp. do la AVych (1245-1253). It became necessary to pro\ide additional room for chantries and relic-shrines ; and the positions of the various altars are marked by the piscinas and aum- bries in the walls. The two, how- ever, only occur together in the S. aisle. In the N. are aiunbries only — an arrangement lu'obably due to the ancient feeling with Avhich that quarter was always regarded. The tirst 2 stories of the S.W. tower at the end of the nave deserve examina- tion. The rude, long capitals and l^laiu circular arches possibly indicate a date earlier than Bp. Kali)h. A certam triplicity pervades all this part of the catliedral, which was de- dicated by Setfrid to the Holy Tri- nity. " The side shafts are triple throughout. The bearing-shafts of the vaidting are clustered in threes, and branch out with 3 triple vault- ing-ribs above." (Bev. P. Freeman.) The stained windows of the nave are all modern, and are perhaps more satisfactory than usual, in spite of the e\ident want of some uniform design. The 2 W. windows are by Wailes, — the larger one a memorial to Dean Chandler, from the parish- ioners of All Souls, St. JIarylebone, London, of winch parish he was for many years rector. In the N. aisle tlie memorial whidow of Sir Thomas lleynell is by O'Connor. In the Arundel Chantry (N. aisle) is the altar-tomb of Bkharcl Fitz- alan, 14th Earl of Armidel (beheaded 1397), and Ins countess. Tliis tomb was restored in 1843 by Eichardson, the " repairer " of the efdgies in the Temple Clmrch. The Arundel iigures had been sadly mutilated, and were lying in different parts of the aisle. The tomb does not seem to have been originally placed m the catliedral ; and it has been suo-trested ' CO tlsat the effigies were removed from the Church of the Grey Friars, now the Guildhall (see 2^''^0' ^ which the earls of Arandel were great bene- factors. It was the tomb of this earl that Iiichard II. caused to be opened after his interment, it being " bruited abroad for a miracle that his head shoTild be growne to his body again " ( Holinsh ed). At the end of this aisle, in the Chapel of the Baptist, is the tomb of an miknown lady, happily unrestored, and of extreme beauty. It is of the best Dec. period. A plaster " restoration " may be seen at the Sydenham Palace. Tlie statue of Huskisson in the end of this aisle is by Carew. A memorial wmdow has lately been added above it. The nave is rich in Flaxman monu- ments, none of which are obtrusive, and one or two of much beauty. The best are in the N. aisle. Kemark especially that of William Collins, the poet, who was born in Chichester on Christmas - day, 1719, and who died in a house adjoinhig the clois- ters, 1759. He was biuied in St. An- drew's Chm-ch, and the 2:)resent monu- ment was placed here by subscrip- tion. The poet is bending over the New Testament. " I have but one book," he said to Dr. Johnson when he visited Collins at Islington in the last year of his life, at which time the attacks of frenzy had ail-but de- stroyed him, " but that is the best." ' The Passions " lie at his feet. The inscription — " where Collins, hapless name. Solicits kindness with a double claim " — is the joint production of Hayley and Sargent. In the S. aisle remark tlie monument oi A(jnes Cronucell, a graceful tignre borne upwards by floating angels ; and that of Jane Smith. Better perhaps than any of tliese is the small bas-relief at Eartham (see post). Mr. Euskin's judgment on the artist need not, per- haps, be considered as final. " There was Flaxman, another natiu-ally great man, with as true an eye for nature as Eaphael, — he stumbles over the blocks of the antique statues, — wanders in the dark valley of their 308 Route IG. — Chichester — the Cathednd. Sect. II iiiius to the eud of his days. He lias left you a few oiitliues of mus- cular men straddling and i'rowning behind roiuid shields. Much good may they do you ! Another lost mind." — Led. on Areli. and rainting. The window over the doorway into the cloisters, representing the jMartyrdom of S. Stephen, is by Wailes, and very good. The screen which divides the nave from tlie choir is the work of Bp. Arundel (1458-1478), and is called his " Oratory. " It is a good specimen of Perp. The choir-stalls and the altar -screen are part of Fuller's " lace and trimmings " given by Bp. Sherborne (1507-153G). The bishop s throne was erected in 1830. The defect of the clioir is its extreme narrowness, owing to which the chanted services become far moi'c striking wheu listened to iu tlie nave or transepts. The massive Norm, arches (Bp. Ralph's) which support the spire shoiild here lie noticed. The window of the S. transept is due to Bp. Langton (1305- 1338), and is of great beauty. Tlie stained glass was destroyed by AVal- ler's pikemen. Beneath it is the bishop's toml), much nmtilated, Init still showing traces of colour. The modern tomb beside it — that of John Smith, Esq., of Dale Park — is at least an attempt in a good direction. On the N. side, adjoining the clioir, is a very important tomb, whicli is ill all prol>abilitv tliat of St. Richard de laWych(bp. 1245-1253) : (see the Life of St. Richard of Chichester, by Ralph Bockhig — like himself, a Do- minican, and the bishop's constant attendant ; Acta Sand., April iii. The miracles recorded are of the usual character, but enough remains to prove the great excellence of the bishop's career). The translation of St. Richard's relics took place in 127(j, in the pre- sence of Edward I., his queen, and court. From this time his shrine became one of the most honoured in southern England, and numerous offerings are recorded. The tomb is one of Richardson's restorations ; the small tigures hi the niches being en- tirely new. It seems later than the dateof the bishop's translation ; and Professor Willis has questioned its right to figure as the shrine of St. Richard, although it is difficult to appropriate the tomb more satisfac- torily. When the tomb was opened for the recent repairs, fragments of hazel wands and branches were foimil lying on the surface, such as pilgrims, having cut by the way, used to suspend round the shrine. These, together with pieces of glass and other vessels, were probably thrown back in disorder either after the destruction of the shrine by Heiu-y VIII. 's commissioners, or after the bishop's tomb had been violated by Waller's troops. The remarkable decorations of this transept are part of Bp. Sherborne's lace-wt)rk, and exhibit on the E. wall portraits of the Bps. of Selsey and Chichester from the commencement. A singular family -likeness runs through the series, which is quite as edifying and aiithentic as that of the kings of Scotland in the Holyrood Gallery, on the uniform shape of whose noses Mr. Crystal Croftangry was wont to speculate. On the opposite wall are the monarchs of England from the Conqueror, and above them a picture, in 2 compart- ments, representing Ceadwalla be- stowing the monastery of Selsey on St. Wilfred, and the confirmation of tJiis grant to the cathedral, made by Henry VIII. to Bp. Sherborne. In this the costume and accompaniments are all of the beginning of the 16th cent. ; and Ceadwalla is represented by the figure of Henry VII., who, like his son and successor, was Bp. Sherborne's pairon. The artist was Theodore Bernardi, a member of an Italian family long resident iii the Low Countries, and which at tliis Sussex. Route 16. — Chichester — the Cathedral. 309 time was settled in Chichester under the bishop's patronage. Tlie railed portion of the transept is used as an ecclesiastical coiut. Tlie ancient Consistory Court, over the S. jJorch, is entered by a spiral staircase in the nave, close witliout the transept. It is late Perp., and contains the original president's chair, which deserves attention. A slidhig panel opens from this room into another called the " I^ollard's prison," perhaps a chamber of archives. The Sacrist ij, of E. E. date, is entered from the transe^jt. In it is a very ancient oak-chest, S ft. long. There is nothing about it to contradict the tradition that it is of Saxon workmanship ; and we may believe that it was broxight from Selsey at the removal of tlieliishopric. In the wall of the 8. aisle, E. of the transept, are fixed 2 sculptured slabs of very unusual character, wliich are also said to have been removed from Selsey. Casts from them are at Sydenham. The subjects are tlie Raising of Lazarus, and the ^Meeting of the Saviour with Martha and Mary. These slabs were discovered in 1829 behind tlie stalls of the choir, where they had been long concealed. They are probably of early Norm. date, though the costume and ar- rangement seem to indicate a foreign artist. The hollows in the ej'es were perhaps filled wth crystals. fComp. the sculptm-es in Sompting Church, ante, which, although later, have a similar character.) Between these slabs is the tomb of jBjj. Sherborne {1507-M), lately re- stored by the society of New College, Oxford, in whose charge it was left. Bp. Seftrid's restoration of Ralph's Norm, church terminates in tlie choir. The Eastern Aisles, behind the choir, are Trans., and probablv a later work of the same Bp. Selfrid II. (1180- 1204). Tlie central columns with de- taclu^d shafts are of extreme beauty, and perhaps uni((ue. The mixture of the Circular and Pointed stvles is best seen m the triforium. The bosses of the vaulting-ribs should be noticed, especially an extraordinary composition of 6 human faces near the S. aisle. The monuments at the liaek of the altar-screen are tliose of Bp. Henrij King, tlie poet (Itj41-G9), whoso fatlier, John King, Bp. of London, was James I.'s " king of preachers." (It was dimng this bishoji's lifetime that the cathedral was " set to rights " by the Puri- tans) ; Bj). Grove (1G96) ; and Bj). Carlton (1705). The plaui tomb on the N. side is that of Bp. Story (1478-1503), the builder of the Rlarket Cross. The trefoil on the pavement adjoining, within which 2 liands support a heart, is inscribed, " Ici gist le cojur Maud de . . . . " — the lady's surname being imde- ciijherable. On the S. side is the tomb of Bp. Day (d. 1556). In tlie chapel (E. E.) at the end of the N. aisle is a bust of Bp. Otter by Towne. The E. window of this chapel claims to have been the first modern memorial window erected in England. It was placed here in 1842 liy Dean Chandler; but a second window has since been sub- stituted by Wailes for the first, with the design of which lie liecame dis- satisfied. To the example thus set Tiy the dean the cathedral is indebted for the riches of its stained glass, now of unusual quantity. In the S. aisle is a memorial window for Bp. Shutlkworth (d. 1842). From the E. aisles the Lady Chapel is entered — the work of Bp. Gilbert de St. Leofard (1288-1305). In entering, remark rt. a coped tomb, with the words " Radnlphus Ejiisco- pus " at its W. end. Tliis has been tliought, and perhaps rightly, to belong to Bp. Ralph, the foimder of the original Norm. Church. Ojipo- site are 2 similar tombs, called those of Bps. SettVid and Hilary. Both are uncertain. The beautifid Lady Chapel has been .spoilt as far as possible. The 310 Route IG. — Chichester — the Cathedral. Sect. II. tlooring has been raised iu order to provide room for the Duke of Itich- luoiid's vault, -wliich ranges beneath it. The E. window lias been chjsed up, and tlie others partly liidden. Here is arranged the Chapter Li- brary — a good collection; among the treasures of which are Cranmer's copy of the Service-book of Her- mann, Arbp. of Cologne, with his autograph and numerous MS. notes ; and Eustathius on Homer, with the MS. notes of Salmasius. There are no early MSS. of importance. In a case against the wall are preserved some interesting relics, discovered in 1829 in the stone coffins of 2 early bishops, which then stood under the choir arches. The most remarkable are a silver chalice and paten, with gold knobs and or- naments, of the 12th cent., and per- haps marking the tomb of Setfrid II. (d. 1205). in the coffin was found a talismanic thumb-ring — an agate set in gold and engraved with Gnostic devices. Similar talismans have been fomid in the tombs of early crusaders both here and on the continent. This ring, and 2 others of great beauty, set with rubies and sapjihires, and found at the same time, are preserved at the deanery. The other coffin was that of God- frey (1087-1091), second bp. of Chi- chester. It contained the leaden cross exhibited in the library. This is inscrilnd with a papal absolution, from which it appears that some com- plaint against the bishop had been carried to the court of Eonie. Of this, however, nothing is known. Godfrey was consecrated by Ahyt. Lanfranc. The vaulting of the ante-room exhibits another fragment of Bp. Sherborne's " lace- work." The whole of the cathedral vaultings were painted in a similar manner, Init all the rest of the decoration has been scraped off. Like the tran- sept pictures, it is Bernardi's work (corap. the roof paintings in the church of St. Jacques at Liege, which are of a similar character). There are others, also by Bernardi, at Boxgrove (see 'post). In the N. a/'slc, down which we now i^ass, are three memorial win- dows, the best being WiUemeiit's, for P. E. Freeland, Esq. The large tomb under its canopy is said to be that of Bp. Moleynes (1415-49), counsellor of Henry VI., "faithful found among the faithless," and after- wartls murdered at Portsmouth. The N. transept was long used as the parish Church of St. Peter, and deserves careful attention. Although much worked upon by Bps. Ealph and Setfrid, there are some indica- tions — such especially as the plain \V. arch^ — which suggest that it may have fornred part of the original monastic Clmrch of St. Peter, known to have existed on this site before the foundation of the Cathedral. The central pillar in the Norm. E. end has been thought to point this out as the Chapterhouse of Bp. llalph's church. The Cloisters, entered from the S. aisle of the nave, are Perp. and their wooden roof deserves notice. They should be walked round for the sake of the exterior views of the Cathe- dral to be obtained from them. The S. transept window is best seen here. The ckcular window above it has disappeared from within, owing to the depression of the roof. The Norm, windows of the aisles, now closed, may also be traced here ; the walls themselves, according to Willis, afford evidence that the E. end of the chancel was originally circidar, the ordinary Norm. U-pe. Over a doorway iu the ^S". cloister is a shield with tjie arms of Henry VII., together with two robed figures kneeling before the Vii'gin, who is supported by an angel, lioldhig a rose. This marks the house of " the King's Chaplains, who served a chantry founded by Henry V. for his own soul, those of his father and mother, Sussex. Route 16. — Chichester — the Cathedral. aud of Nicholas Mortimer." It is now a private re'sidcnce. Beyoud, but still in tlie S. wall, is a tiiblet to the memory of Wm. Chil- lingicorth, tlie champion of Protes- tantism, wlio died here (1643) after the capture of Arundel Castle, where he had suffered much during the siege. He was hurled in this cloister, and Cheynell, a Puritan Grand Inqui- sitor, appeared at the grave with Chilling-worth's ' Pieligion of Protes- tants,' which he Umig into it, " to rot with its author and see corruption ;" accompanying his proceeding Avith a speech that Torquemada miglit have envied. Like most impartial writers, Chillingworth shared the fate of the bat in the fable, and was cordially recognised by neither party. The last lines of the inscription on his monument, " Sub hoc marmore conditur Nee seutit damna sepulohri," are said to be a later addition. The original inscri])tion, written by a friend of Chillingv.orth's soon after the restoration, contained a special allusion to ChejTiell, in which he was .styled " Theologaster." His son got into the cloister at night, and defaced it with a pickaxe. The Episcopal Palace opens from the W. end of tlie cloisters. The L'hapel is late E. E. with some addi- tions. The dining-room ceiling is painted with coats of arms and ini- tials, attributed to Bernardi, the )nanufacturer of Bp. Sherborne's " lace " in tlie Cathedral. At tlie S.E. angle of the Cloisters is the Chapel of St. Faitli, foimded early in the 14th century. It is now a dwelling-house, distinguished only by two heavy buttresses. Within, one or two deeply-splayud E. E. win- dows are traceable. The liest exterior views of the Cathedral will be gained from "West Street. The spire dates from the end of the IStli century, but it is uncertain under what bishop it was erected. It is 270 ft. from the ground, and strikingly resembles its much loftier Inother of Salisbury. " In Salisbury and Chichester alone is there a visible centre and axis to the whole Cathedral, viz., the summit of the sjiire, and a line let fall from it to the gromid. Salisbury was so constructed at first. Chichester spire was made exactly central, to an inch, by the additions of the I-ady Chapel and the W. porch. Michael Angvlo's " most perfect " outline — the pyra- midal —is thus gained. The eye is carried upward to the spu-e-point from the chapels clustering at the base, along the roof and phmacles. Contributing to this is a certain squareness of detail in the abaci of the capitals of the nookshafts which adorn the oiienings. The retention of this Norm, feature at an advanced period of the E. E. style, is remark- able. Witliii 1, square and circular abaci are placed in juxtaposition. (Comp. Boxg)-ove.) {liev. P. Freeman, Suss. Arch, i.) The Campanile on the N. side of the cathedral is Perp., of the 15th cent. It is the only English example of a detached bell-tower adjoining a cathedral, though tliere are many in- stances of it in parish churches. The stone of which it is built is from the Isle of Wight quarries near Ventnor. The summit commands a good view of the to-wn aud cathedral. The Marlitit-Cross, at the meeting of the four streets, was completeti about 1500, and is the work of Bj?. Storey. The ground has been much raised about it ; and the figures which originally filled the niches above each arcli were removed by Waller's iconoclasts. Tlie clock was the gift of Dame Elizalietli Farringdou (1724), "An hom-ly memento of her goodwill to the city." After the cathedral, the most in- teresting building in Chichester is St. Marys Hospital, lying a short distance E. of North Street. Little is known of its history. It is said to 312 Route 10. — Chichester. Sect. II. have been founded as a house of fe- male religious, by a Dean of Chiehcs- ter about the middle of the 12th cent. For some unknown reason it was suppressed as a convent alxnit 1229 ; and its revenues, Avith the sanc- tion of Henry III., were appropriated to the maintenance of lo decayed persons and a warden. In 1562 fresh arrangements were made, under which the warden and only 5 poor were maintained ; it now supports 8. An arched door and passage lead into the hospital from the street. A long hall or refectory is then entered, in the side walls of which small dwel- lings, of two rooms each, are con- structed for the hnnates. These are only accessible from the central aisle. At the E. end, separated by an open screen of oak, is the chapel, with its ancient stall-work. The arrange- ments of the whole building are so unusual as to deserve very careful attention. The arclutectiire througli- out is late E. E. or very early Dec. The hall-roof is made to span across the building in arches formed by massive timbers, continued downwai'd on either side to within 6 ft. of the ground, and resting on low stone side-walls, which are pierced for win- dows. The oaken screen of the chapel is of later date, but still ap- parently Dec. On the E. side of North Street is the restored Church of St. Oluve, remarkable as containing some traces of very early work. Note especially the small door on the S. side, whicli may be even Koman. Eoman urns and bricks were foimd in the E. wall during tlie restoration ; and as the church clearly occupies the site of a Roman building, it may perhaps claim to be the first Christian church of Cliichester. The Guildliall, situated in the Priory Park, near the end of North Street, was the chapel of the Grey Friars. It is late E. E., and well de- serves a visit, notwithstanding the desecration and destruction to wiiich it has been exposed. Very beautiful sedilia will be found behind the magisterial Ijenches. In the garden, formerly the grounds of the Friary, but now used liy the Cricket Club, is a circular moimd, wliich may either have supported a Calvary(like that at Lewes), or have been connected with the early defences of the city-walls which adjoin it. Similar mounds exist at Canterbury, Oxford, and elsewhere. Under St. Aiidreiv's Church and churchyard (East Street) a Roman tessellated pavement extends, at a depth of 4 or 5 ft. In this church the poet Collins was bmled, as an inscrip- tion against the S. wall records. Notice also the monument of John Cawley (d. 1621), father of Cawley the regicide, who died at Bniges. In the exterior wall of this ch. is a mural slab wliich hitherto has j^roved undecipherable. In the house of Mr. Mason, adjom- ing St. Andrew's Church, are some interesting relics of Hayley, including a very tine portrait of the poet by Ttomiieij. Here are also some land- scapes by the Smiths, of Chichester ; artists whose local reputation was considerable. The Canon Gate, opening from the close hito South Street, has on it the arms of Bp. Sherborne, and was no doubt erected by hun. The Museum of the Philosophical Society in South Street, contains a very tolerable collection of local na- tural liistoiy, and some antiquities found in the neighbourhood ; the most important being a quantity of jjottery discovered in 1817 in aBrito- Poman tomb at Avisford, in the ]iarish of Wallierton near Arundel. There are 28 pieces of various forms, together with some large vessels of a pale sea-green glass ; the principal of which, with a reeded handle, con- tained tlie calcined bones of tlie deceased. A very similar deposit was foiind in the Bartlow graves in Essex. {Arclneol. vol. xxv.) Some liouses in the nj^per part of SUSSKX. Itouta IG, — Bosham. 313 this street, marlved by ovcrliaiigiiig cornices, are attriljiitcd to Wren, as is a brick lionsc in West Street, with the date 1696 in the pediment. Tlie Pallunt, a district oi^ening from West Street, forming a miniature Chiches- ter -with its own four streets, is the pulatinaie. or Ai'chbishop's peculiar. Adjoining South Street is the hall of the Vkars' Cullege, now used as a school-room. It still contains the ancient lavatory and reader's pulpit. The Vicars Choral Avere placed here as a collegiate body toward the end of the 14th cent. Of the ancient Citij Walls there are considerable remains ; and verj' pleasant public walks have been formed within them on the N. side, overlooking the coimtry toward Goodwood. Semicircular towers still remain at intervals. Of other parts of the walls good news are to be had from the E. side of South Street be- j'ond the Theatre, and from the fields beyond West Street. Beyond the city walls, N., is the so-called Otter Memorial — a training college for schoolmasters founded by Bp. Otter, and erected in 184t)-5d. It is a goi'd collegiate building, from the designs of Mr. J. Butler. Not quite 1 m. N. of the walls, on the Goodwood road, are some re- markable lines of embankment, now called the Broyle, probably from the ancient character of the district, once covered with coppice, hruillum. Tlie lines extend fn- a considerable dis- tance, N. and W., but have never been thoroughly examined. A some- what similar work, called " Redvin's Cop " runs E. of Cloodwood. It has been suggested that the "Broyle' marks the military station of Eoman liegnum without the walls. Bosham will be one of the first places visited by the archreologist from Chichester. The church is dis- tantabout J m. fromthe station, which is the liist between Chichester and I'ortsmouth. Bv the road, the dis- tance from Chichester is about 4 m., but the walk cannot be recommended on the score of beauty or interest. All this is forgotten, however, when the venerable tower is at last seen presiding over the quaint fishing village, at the head of its historical creek. The clmrch, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, stands on a green ris- uig ground, extending to the water, and consists of chancel, nave, with N. and S. aisles, and W. tower. The portions called Saxon should be first noticed. These are the Chancel Arch and the Toirer. The first is circular and unusually lofty, the pier shafts veiy high, with moulded capitals. If it he not late Norm, it is Saxon ; the matter is "adhuc sub judice," and the visitor may make his own discoveries. The so-called Saxon relics throughout the country have frequently a strong resemblance t(j late Norm, or nide E. E. The Toicer seems to have more positive claims. There is no external door. Above the circular arch, opening to the nave, is a triangular-headed window, with long and short work (such an arch occurs at Janow, and in other Anglo-Saxon Imildings), and a small square slit beside it. In the massive walls are several roxuid-headed win- dows deeply splayed. 2 stages arc marked without by square - edged stringcom-scs, and imder the spire is a. Norm. ( ? ) corbel-tal )le. The parish l)ooks record that the steeple was set on fire liy lightning hi 1638, but no great harm was done. This por- tion of the buikUng has at least the best claim of hanng witnessed Ha- rold's appearance with liawk on wrist, as he is represented in the Bayeux tapestry, when he entered the church of Bosham to perform his devotions, before sailing from the harbour on his fatal visit to Duke William. The present Chancel is E. E., vnth an E. window of 5 lights. A college f(n' a dean and 5 secular preliendarics was founded at Bosham by William 314 Route 10. — Bosh am. Sect. 11. Warlewast, Bp. of Exeter, aljout 1120. This bishop had dissolved his college at Plymp ton ill Devonsliire.on account of tlie irreguhir lives of the inmates, and he settled the same number oli Iiis manor here. The chancel was appropriated to this college, but is of considerably later date than its foundation. The shafts of tlie ori- ginal E. E. windows are of Petworth marble. In tlie N. wall, imder an arched recess, is a figure, tradition- ally said to be that of a daughter of Canute, who visited Earl Godwin at his castle here, and died. It is sliort, and apparently temp. Edw. I. The remaining stall work is Perp. The nave is E. E., with circular piers and broad bases. Tlie windows are of all dates, only one being the original E. E. At the E. end of the S. aisle is a groined E. E. crypt. In the wall adjoining is an arched tomb of some peculiarity. The font is E. E. The earliest exterior buttresses seem to be E. E. Bosham Church is twice mentioned in the Doomsday Survey, and is re- presented, but only under a general form, and not as a portrait, in the famous Bayeux tapestry, where Ha- rold enters it before sailing. The very first picture in tlie tapestry ex- Mbits " Harold and his kniglits rid- ing towards Bosham ;" one of his principal manors on the S. coast. The well-known story, in which his father. Earl Godwin, is made to ask " Da milii hasium" in taking leave of Arpb. CEgilnoth, and tlien to in- sist that the archliishop had given him Bosham., is first told by Walter de Mapes, and is of about equal authenticity with that recording the union of Bath and Wells. Tlie lands of Harold extended from Chichester to Havant. The site of his residence at Bosham was probably that of the present manor-house, not far from the church, where an ancient moat en- closes a considerable piece of ground. The barn in front is erected on re- mams of stone walls of great anti- quity. The importance of Bosham no doubt arose from its being a safe landing-place at the head of the creek. Its name (Bosanhamm, Boso"s meadow), is at least as old as Bede's time, who tells us, that wlien Bp. Wilfred of York visited Sussex in G81, he foimd here at Bosham, en- circled by woods, and by the sea, (sylvis et mari circumdatum), a small religious house of 5 or 6 brethren, ruled by a Scot named Dicul, — a little Christian fortress in the midst of the heathen Saxons, on whom, how- ever, Dicul and his monks had made no impression whatever. How far Bp. Warlewast's foundation was on the same site as Dicul 's (which was con- firmed by Wilfred) is of course un- certain. Of the later college some portions remain close to the ch. An arched doorway here may perhaps be of the same date as the chancel ; the rest seems later. Herbert de Bosham, Becket's secretary, but not, as is generally asserted, one of those present at his death, was either a native of the village or a canon of this college. His ' Book of Beckefs Martyrdom ' was to be found in almost every religious house. The bells of Bosham are said to have been carried o& by the Danes. In punishment of their sacrilege, however, a great storm arose before they were half way do\vn the creek, and the weight of the bells sank their ship. But they stdl remain under the water, and on great festival days their voices may be heard chiming in sympathy with their Pro- testant successors in the tower. How far this is a scandal on the ancient bells, any one may judge who re- marks the strong echo floating back from the West Itchenor woods, 1. of the creek. Similar legends are told of Bottreaux in Cornwall, and of more than one church on the coast of Normandy. A colossal head, foimd in the churchyard here, is now preserved in the palace garden at Chichester. It has been taken for Sussex. Route 16. — Selsey. 315 Woden or Jupiter, but is more pro- bably the fragment of a St. Christo- pher. The prebendal churches at- tached to the college of Bosham seem to have been restored or rebuilt about the same time as the chancel of the parent clmrch. Chidham (1 m. W.) is E. E. of that time, as is Appledram, about h m. otf the road in the way back to CI lich ester. A farm- house at this latter place, near the church, is said to be a portion of a tower built by William Eenan, temp. Edw. II. But a licence to crenel- late could not be obtained from tlie king, and the stone which had been collected for the rest of the castle was bought by Bp. Langton, who used it for the campanile adjoining the cathedral. The tourist in search of the pic- turesque must not be sent to Selseij, although it is a corner of much historical interest. The point of Selsey Bill is about 9 m. from Chi- chester, whence it may most easily be visited. The entire hundred of Man- hood, forming the penuisula, the name of which indicates that it was anciently covered with forest (i\Iain- wood), is a dead level, with a rich soil, composed of the "London claj-," and with deep marshes at intervals. The low coast is still encroached on by the sea, which is said to have swept away half the peninsula since the Saxon period. The entire district was granted by Edilwalch, king of the S. Saxons, to Wilfred of York, shipwrecked on this coast about G80-1. Edilwalch and his queen were alreadj^ Christians, but the whole of his people still worshipped Thor and Odiu. They were, howevej-, prepared to receive Christianity, for Wilfred first Ijaptized the chiefs and pruiciiial leaders, and the priests who were with him speedily brought over the rest. No rains, says Bcde, had fallen for 3 years before Wilfred's arrival. A great famine had been the result ; and the S. Saxons, chaining them- selves together in companies of 30 or 40, souglit an end to their miseries by throwing themselves into the sea. Wilfred taught them to fish, of which before they knew nothing ; and on the first day of baptism the rain fell in plenty, and the earth once more became fruitful. Ui^on Selsey, " the seal's island," he then established a monastery, and collected there such of his followers as, like himself, had been exiled from Northumberland. In this southern house Oswald, the sainted king of Northumbria, was especiallv reverenced. (See Bede, 1. iv. c. 14.) Wilfred was thus the first bishop of Selsey and of the S. Saxou.s, and the see conthiued here until after the Conquest, when it was removed to Chichester. For this Saxon cathe- dral and monastery of Selsey all search will now be in vain. The village of Selsey, now about i m. from the sea, is traditionally said to have been once in the centre of the peninsula ; at all events, the site of the old cathedral is now covered with water. It is said to have lain about a mile E. of the present church, and so rapidly has the sea encroached, within the last 3 cents., that in Cam- den's time the foundations were un- covered at low water. The line of anchorage along the S. E. coast is still called '• the Park," which was existing and full of deer, temp. Hen. VIII., and for 2)oaching in which Bp. Rede fiercely excommunicated certain imhajJiiy deer-stealers. The present Clmrch, about 2 m. N. of the village, is probably the work of the same Bp. Eede (13G9-13S5), with a considerably later roof. It is dedicated to St. Peter, like the ancient catiicdral, and is of some size. The tower was never finished. In the nave are some grave-slabs of Sussex marble, with crosses and other ornaments, said to have been brought from the former church. Against the N. wall of the chancel is a somewhat remarkable monument for John Lews 316 Route IG. — Pagham. Sect. II. unci Agatha Gorges his wife, died 1537. Beliiud the recumbent figures are the lady's patron saints, St. George and St. Agatlia. Similar ar- rangements exist at West Wittering and at West Hampnett, and seem to indicate the same designer ; perhaps one of the Bernardi family, settled in Chichester about this time. The font is ancient and should be noticed. In tlie clmrcliyard is an epitaph by Hayley on the tombstone of two j'oung men drowned ofi" the coast. Close adjoining is tlie mound and trench of an ancient fortification. The whole of the Selsey iDcninsula, but especially the coasts, and the Pagham Creek, is the resort of in- numerable wild-fowl, many of rare species ; and, in severe winters, flocks of wild swans are always to be heard and seen here. The patches of brush- wood, and rough copses of stunted oak, which dot its line of coast, also " afford temptmg places of rest to our vernal migratory birds on their first arrival from the continent." " Here, in the dead long svunmer days, when not a breatli of air has been stirring, have I frequently re- mained for hours stretched on the liot shingle, and gazed at the osprey as he soared aloft, or watched tlie little islands of mud at the turn of the tide, as each gradually I'ose from the receding waters, and was succes- sively taken i^ossessiou of by iiocks of sandpipers and ring-dotterels, after various circiun volutions on the part of each detachment, now simul- taneously presenting tlieir snowy Ijreasts to the sunshine, now sud- denly turning their dusky backs, so that the dazzled eye lost sight of them from the contrast ; while the prolonged cry of the titterel, and the melancholy note of the peewit from the distant swamp, mingled with tlie scream of tlie tern and the taunting laugh of tlie "gull." {A. E. Knox.) The sands are very firm and dry, and it is possible to drive along them for about 10 miles. Off the coast there is an extensive fishery, and a "Selsey cockle" is one of Fuller's " four good things " of Sussex. {See Introdurthm, Sussex.) In Pagham harliour, between Pag- ham and Selsey Cliurch, is a place called Ijy the fishermen the Kusliing Well. Over a space of about 130 ft. long by 30 broad, the water is " apparently in a state of ebulli- tion, from the rushing of immense volumes of air to the surface. The noise of tlie bursting bubbles re- sembles the simmering of a huge caldron, and may sometimes be heard at Selsey church, J m. dis- tant." The air rushes through a bed of shingle, left dry at low tide, and the only explanation hitherto offered is, that there is some large cavity beneath, from which the air is ex- pelled as the water rushes in. [The Hushing Well and Selsey Church may be visited from Bognor, taking especial note of the state of the tides.] Pagham harbour itself was formed by an irruption of the sea at the be- ginning of tlie 14tli cent., when 2700 acres were desb-oyed. Tlie Church of Pagham is good E. E., and worth notice, although it lias been much injured by "reijairers. ' It is dedi- cated to Thomas h, Becket, and was probabl}- built soon after his cano- nization by an archbishop of Caii- terliuiy, to which see the manor belonged till the Reformation. A slab in the chancel, with Longobardic characters, shoiild be looked foi'. Some indistinct remains of the arcliie- piscopal i:)alace are visible in a field S.E. of the church. At Brackhsl/aiii Buy, 3 m. W. of Selsey Bill, masses of clay occur on the sands, containing fossil shells of great rarity. " The part of the bay most interesting to the geologist is that immediately in the neighbour- hood of Bracklesham barn, esiDCcially at about a furlong to the E. of that spot, where there is a small brealc or chine in the low clay clitf. Here there is a stratum of light green Sussex. Route 10. — West Hampnett. — Boxgrove. ;i7 marly sand, aboxiiiding in Veneri- cardia plaiiicosta and other sliel'.s." — Boioerhanlc. Vertebras and other bones of turtles, serpents, and eroeo- diles, have also been discovered here. At Cakeham, in West Witter- ing, beyond, is a lofty hexagonal tower of brick, with labelled Avin- dows, bnilt by Up. Sherborne of Chichester, in the early i:>art of the 16th cent., for the sake of the sea view, which is here very fine and unimpeded. Cakeham Manor was an occasional residence of the Bps. of Chichester, but the tower is now the only relic of their palace here. Here Rich, de la Wych, the sainted bishop, is said to have miraculously fed, during- a great dearth, 3001) per- sons witli beans only sufficient for one-third the number. In West Wittering Church is a ca- nopied altar-tomb, with bas-reliefs at the ends, representing the Annuncia- tion and thcEesurrection It is that of William Ernley, died 1545, and resembles the Lews monument at Selsey. Kynor, in the parish of Sidlesham, extending W. to tlie sea, is, hi all probability, the " Cymenes-ora," at which Qillla and his three sons, Cijmen, Wlencing, and Cissa, landed in 477, whence they established themselves on the coast, and founded the settlement of the S. Saxons. Sidlesliam Church is mainly E. E. In it is a good " Flanders chest " of Dec. character. The little village, with its large tide-mill, sleeping in the clear summer air at the head of the estuary, looks like some sharply touched landscape by Asselyn or Van Goyen. Although the tourist must not be sent S. of Chichester in search of the pictiu-esquc, he may very safely tiu-n northward. As soon as the ground begins to rise toward the chalk range, the views become of great in- terest, fringed from the higher land with a background of sea. A first \_Kent & Sussex.'^ excursion may be to Goodwood and the race-course al)0ve it ; or a longer round may be made by Boxyrove, visiting the church there, proceetling by Halnaker to Goodwood, thence to St. Eoche's Hill and the race-course, and back to Chichester by the Mid- hurst road. On this route West lianipnett, I5 m., has an E.E. chui-ch, with a monument to Richard Sackville and bis wife in the chancel. Between the 2 kneeling figures is a representation of the Holy Trinity, in which the arrangement is that of a Pietk. The dove (as on the tomb of the Black Prince at Canterbury) is wanting. Beneath is the inscription, " Sanctus Spiritus Unus Deus," the 2 figures al3ove being apparently intended to form part of the sentence. (See Selsey aide.) Beyond the church by the roadside, is West Hampnett Flare, now tlie union poor-house for this and tlie adjohiing parishes. The front is modern ; the rest of the house Elizabethan. The ceiling of the great staircase is painted in the style of Kneller. The house is said to have been built by Ed. Sacknlle, uncle of Thomas, first Lord Buck- hurst. The Church of Boxgrove, 2 m., should on no ac- count be left unvisited, since it is one of the most important .specimens of E. E. in the kingdom. Boxgrove Priory was foimded temp. Hen. 1. by Eobert de Haia, who then possessed the lordship. He made it a cell for 3 monks, attached to the Benedic- thie abbey of Lessay in Normandy (diocese of Coutances). The number was increased to 15 by the St. Johns, heirs of Eobert de Haia ; and when the alien priories were supjjrcsscd, Boxgrove was made " denizen, or in- digena,"' and retained its rich endow- ments. At the dissolution, Thomas West, Lord Delawarr, then loid of Boxgrove and Halnaker, pleaded earnestly for it to Cromwell. " I have made therem a powr chapell to be buried yn;" he writes ; l>ut in spite of this, and although commia- Q 518 Route IG. — Boxgrove. Sect. II. sioner Layton found its condition satisfactory — "the prior is a gret liusbonde and kepitli gret hospital- itie ; ejus monachi omncs sunt ejns- dem farinre '"—the Boxgrove Bene- dictines could not be spared. The present Church, dedicated to St. Mary and St. Blaize, is tliat of the prioiy ; the ancient nave, which probably served as the original parish chnrcli, is now ruined. The existing portion consists of the chancel, aisles, transepts, and central tower ; of all which, with the exception of the tower, which is Norm., the cliaracter is rich E. E. Tlie composition of the choir or sacrarium is of great beauty. "Itisdividtd into 4 square compart- ments, each having a cross vault with ribs, the diagonal being enriched with the tooth ornament." All this ar- rangement deserves the most care- ful attention. Remark the pillared brackets from which the vaulting shafts spring ; and the graceful man- ner in which they are made to fill the spaces between the circular pier arches. The clerestory above the pier arches is very beautiful — its unequal arches supported by slender columns of Purbeck. The E. window is a large triple lancet, with long filleted shafts of Purbeck marl)lel)etwceu the lights. The vaulting tliroughout is covered with paintings of the same character as those of Bp. Sherborne in Chiches- ter cathedral ; the artist was no doubt the same. A peculiar blue green is used for the foliage and traceries. Under the second bay, on the S. side of tlie chancel, is the tomb of Lord Delawarr, (died 1532); a most striking specimen of Mr. Ruskin's "pestilent Renaissance." The character of the upright ornamented sliafts covered with rude, low reliefs, is very remark- al>le. On one, a lady standing in a wattled enclosure, catches in her apron the figs which a climbing figure in the tree above shakes down to her. Compare the ornaments with the paintings on the chancel roof. In cither case the artist may liave been one of the Bernardis. Within the tomb, remark the central pendant boss, and tlie curious miniature vault. Lord Delawarr's " jiowr chapell," supplied with arm chairs, and glazed to keep OTit draughts, more pestilent than the Renaissance, now serves as a " ducal " seat for Goodwood. " Sic vos non vobis." It is much to be wished that the same thoughtful care which has been bestowed here should be extended to the whole ch., which is greatly in need of it. Some of the original iron-work for the chaj^el may Ijc seen, thrown aside at the end of the N. aisle. It bears the " erampet badge" of the Delawarrs. The aisles, like the chancel, are E. E. N. of the chancel lies interred rhilippa. Countess of Arundel, after- wards wife of Thomas, Lord Poynings (circ. 1428). In the wall of the N. aisle are 3 arched tombs without inscriptions. 2 daughters of Alice of Louvain, Queen of Henry I., and afterwards wife of William de Albini, Earl of Arundel, were buried here, and these memorials possibly belong to them. In the N. transept is a bud monument for Sir William Morley of Ilalnaker, and opposite one for his heiress, the Countess of Derby, with a bas-relief commemorating her charity. Three other arched tombs are in the S. aisle, where the E. E. windows have been less tampered with. The arches from the transepts uito the aisles, are early Norm. The remains of floor-tiling should be noticed throughout. Theupper stories of the tower are open, as a lantern. Outside the church the wall is visible, across the entrance to the nave, which divided the jjarish church from that of the priory (comp. the aiTangements at Arundel, and at Ch. Ch., Hants). In the centre is a (tabernacle?) niche above the ancient altar-site. The nave beyond is ruined. On the N. side were the cloisters and chapter- house ; the entrance to the last di- lapidated, but still showing some fine Norman arches. Near the W. end of Sussex. Eoute 16. — Goodwood. the church is the monastic jiigeon- hoiise, of brick, with hut tresses. Through the farm gatebejoud, N., are the remains of tlie refectory, only lately reduced to their present condi- tion. They are early Dec, the lo\yer story vaulted, with a range of pillars running longitudinally. The corbel heads, from which the vault arches sprang, remain. Above were larger apartments, and a third range in the gable. Many fragments of the priory are traceable in the farm walls and buildings. The ruins of Halnal;er, ^ m., need not long delay the tourist. The house was a good specimen of Henry VIII. architecture, with a gateway flanked by small octangular turrets leading into a square court. It is now little more than a mass of ruined walls, with an occasional stone win- dow-frame. The Imilder was Sir Thomas West, Lord Delawarr, whose " powr chapell '" we have already con- templated. Halnakcr is now attached to Goodwood. In the park, well filled with deer, is an avenue of Spanish chesnuts which should not pass unnoticed. The park of Goodwood (Duke of Richmond), 1 m., may be visited at all times. The house is oidy shown when the family are absent. Good- wood possibly derives its name from its ancient Saxon possessor Godwinus, who was fortimate enough to retain his lauds at the period of the Conquest. It was purchased from the Compton family bv the first Duke of Eichmond about 1720. The house, of no especial beauty, is built on four sides of a hexagon, with towers at the angles. The original design was by Sir William Chambers. The later additions are Wyatfs. The collection of pictures here is not one of great importance, although of some extent. It is richest in portraits. Notice in the hall those of Charles I. in his robes of state, Henrietta Maria in white satin, and their .5 children, all by Vandyke: a half-length of Charles II. ; Sir Peter Lehj: liOuise de Querouaille, Duchess of Ports- moutli, mistress of Charles II. (gene- rally called "Madam Carwell ") ; Kneller : Charles, 1st Duke of Rich- mond (son of Charles IT. and Louise de Querouaille\ and his Duchess, Anne ; both by Kneller : and Sir William Waller, the General of the Parliamentarians who took Arundtl Castle and the city of Chichester : Sir r. Lehj. A pair of curfews, of copper, riveted together, are alst) shown in the hall. In a cabinet in the drawing-room is preserved " a worked shirt of Charles I., and various silver articles used during the infancy of Charles II." {Mason's Goodwood.) Much of the china in this room was i>resented by Louis XV. to the 3rd Duke of Richmond. The diniiKj-room contains busts of the Marquis of Rockingham and Pitt by NoUehens, and of tlie Duke of Wellington by TurnerrUi. In the mnsic-room are portraits of Charles, 2nd Duke of Richmond : Duke of Monmouth; Kneller: Killegrew the wit : Carew the poet ; and Montrose, all 3 by Vandtjlce ; and some by Lehj. Of the other pictures the most striking is a lai-ge one by Sal- vator liosa, representing a Seaport with ruins. In the irai ting-room be- yond are the tliird Duchess of Rich- mond, Lady Charles Spencer, and 2 portraits of the third Duke of Rich- mond, all by Sir J. Beynolds ; and William Pitt, by Gainshorough. A full-length of the present Duchess of Richmond, in the staircase-hall, was thought by Lawrence "one of the best he had painted." Here are also Charles II., by Lehj; Miss Stewart, " La belle Stewart," afterwards Duchess of Richmond, as Bellona, also by Lehj, and a very fine picture ; (this lady is said to have atfoided tlie tj'pe for the figure of Britannia on the coins of the realm) ; and in the gal- lery above, Nell Gwynme, tlie Duchess of Portsmouth, and Mrs. Middleton, all showing Lely's one-pin-fastened Q 2 320 Route 16. — Goodwood. Sect. II. dresses. The finest Vandyke in tlic coUcetion is placed liere — Charles I., Henrietta, and the Princes Charles and James. This picture was in the Orleans Grallery ; and was pur- chased by the 3rd Duke for 1100/. Vandyke painted 3 copies : one in the possession of the Crown ; one be- longing to the Duke of Devonshire ; ami this at Goodwood. In the )<iiu(U library are the third Duke of liich- moud, by Bomney, and the foiu-th Duke (who died in Canada), by Jackson. In the hiUt'ard-room are Romney'g jiortrait of Lord Anson ; and some landscapes by George (d. 1775) and John Smith, his younger brother (d. 1764), natives of Chiches- ter, and once of considerable reputa- tion. Many of their best pictures have been engraved by Woollet. The most remarkable picture here, how- ever, is the so-called " Cenotaph of Lord Darnley ;" brought from the Chateau d'Aubigny, where it was discovered in a dilapidated state. There is a duplicate in the possession of the Earl of Pomfret. In the i-iglit- hand corner is tlie inscription, "Tra- gica et lamentaljilis internecio sere- nissimi Henrici Scotorum Regis." In the centre the figure of Darnley is seen exposed before the altar of a cliaiDel, aud near it are his son, King James ; the Earl and Countess of Lennox, his father and motlier ; and his younger brother ; all kneel- ing. The story of Darnley's murder is told in small compositions arranged in different parts of the pictiu-e. First appears the actual murder, where 2 armed figures are drawing the body from the Ijed ; next, the l)ody of Darn- ley is Fho\vn lying under a tree in the orcliard ; and last is the battle array of CarljiTry Hill, where queen Mury parted from Bothwell. Below again is a view of the city of Edinburgh, with Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat. From 2 of the inscriptions it appears that this picture was com- menced in October, 15(J7, wlien King James was IG months old, and finished in the January following. It was thus begiui within 7 months after tlie min-der. For whom, and Ijy whom, this curious picture was designed, is not known, though it has been as- cribed to Leviniis Venetianus or Vo- rielarius. It has been engraved by Vertue. In the stnne staircase are Hogarth's picture of "The Lady's Ijast Stake," painted for Lord Cliarle- mont ; many landscapes by the Smitlis ; some portraits by Bomney and Hudson; and "Autiochus and Stratonice " by Barry. In the Long HaJl are two curious views of London from the terrace and gardens of Richmond House, by Canalletti. The TaiK'Stry Drawing Boom is hung with fine old gobeluis, the designs from Don Quixote. The chimney- piece is by Bacon. Goodwood Park is more attractive than the house. The views from the higher grounds are very grand ; and the trees beat the pictures. Of these the Lebanon cedars are the finest. 1000 were planted by the third duke in 1761 ; only 159 now remain, but many are of unusual size. The largest, in a paddock near the dog- kennels, measures 25 ft. in circum- ference. The greater niuuber are scattered in clumps through the i^ark, and on the road to Molecomb, a villa within the domain. Remark also tv.'o very large cork-trees opposite the principal i-ntrance ; an enormous beech opposite the stables ; a spruce fir near the kitchen gardens ; and some deciduous cypresses in the High Wood, where is also a fine chestnut avenue. In the High Wood grounds, not far from the house, is a temple containing the famous " Nej)- tune and Minerva " slal), found at Cliichester in 1731, in digging the foiuidations for the Coimcil Chamber ; when the remains of stone walls were also discovered, no doubt part of the temple to which the inscrip- tion refers. The stone is of grey Purbcck fnot Sussex) marble. The inscription, as restored, with almost Sussex. Route IG. — Kwgly Bottom. 321 certainty, nms thus : the letters in Italics mark the conjectural restora- tious. " j\"eptuni et Jlinerva? templum pro salute Aomu& divinaj tx auctoritate Tib. C'lauJ. Cogidubni r. leg. aug. in Brit. CoZiegiuni i'abror. et qui in eo a sacris sunt d. s. d. lionante aream i'Mdente Pudeutini fil. Cogidubiius, to whom, as a reward for his tidelity to the Romans, many cities were given after the successes of Plautius and Scapula, here takes tlie uauie of his patron, tlie Emperor Claudius, according to Koman custom. The " Collegium fahrorum" may have been the company of the carpenters or shipbuilders of the port. Nep- tune and Alinerva were thus their natural patrons, the last as the god- dess of Arts. Comji. Virg. — • " Juxtarmontis equum divina Palladis arte." The deep interest which belongs to the Pudentums part of the inscription has already been noticed. (Chiches- ter, ante.) The Stuhles should be visited by all who are interested in such matters ; they are as complete as possible. The dog Icennels, once of no small celebrity, have been converted into cottages. The i)h(^amntrij formed from an old chalk pit, planted with evergreens, should not be missed. Above it, nearly on the lull top, is Cairney Seat, which has "received its name from that of a faithful old servant of the family." The view from the building here, which is oj^en for the use of the public, extends far along the coasts of Sussex and Hamp- shire, and is very striking. The race-course, witli its yet more magnificent prospect, is about a mile from the house. Races were esta- 1 dished here in 1802, and the course is now oiui of the best in the king- dom. " The celebrity which Good- wood races have now obtained is entirely owing to the exertions of the present duke." They lutve, perhaps, somewhat declined of late years ; but the meeting, which takes place in August, is still more "aristocratic" than either Ascot or Epsom. From the course it is possible to proceed, either on foot or on horsebttck, for almost any distance along the heights of the chalk hills. The paths and wood walks are all open, and all beautiful. The beech is here the prineiiial tree, smooth stemmed, and with little undergrowth. (For the eastern line, towards Bignor, see 2}ost.) On Rook's or St. Roche's Hill, W. (height, 702 ft.), is an ancient camp called the Trundle, circidar, enclosing al:)out 5 acres, with a double vallum and deep fosse. In the centre are the traces of a small building, 14 ft. by 11, of flints cemented with a very hard mortar. Its age and puipose are entirely matters of conjecture. From Rook's Hill the tourist may gain the Midhurst Road, and so return to Cliichester. A second excursion northward may lie to Kiiiijlij Bottom and Bow Hill. This mtiy be prolonged to UjJ Park at pleasure. The road has no specitil interest until Kingly Bottom itself is reached, 4 m. from Chichester. This is a long narrow vale, lying imder Boir Hill, an outlying spur of the chalk range. It is luost picturesquely wooded throughout ; but its principal feature is a cluster of yew trees of very great age and size. The valley is said to derive its name from a great fight between the men of Chichester and a liody of invading Danes, about the year 1)00. Many of the leaders or " kings " of these last were killed ; and the 4 large barrows on the side of the downs, N. of the valley, are said to cover their remains. Two of them were opened duruig the Archaeological Association's visit to Chichester in 1S53, but no discoveries were made that could even mark their age. At the foot oi Stoke Down, on the E. side of Kingly Bottom, are a number of circular excavations, on 322 Route 16. — Eartlmm. Sect. II. ail average about 10 ft. in diameter, and 4 ft. deep. They have been thought, perhaps without much rea- son, to mark the site of an ancient British viUage. Similar hollows exist on the Dorsetshire downs ; and there is a large group at Worlebnry, on the coast of Somersetshire. In Radon Church, E. of the valley, is a monument to one of the Gunter lamilv, somewhat resembling those at W." Witteney and Selsey. St. John the Baptist here stands in the centre, whilst male and female figures kneel on either side. Close beyond Eacton is Stanstead Park (Charles Dixon, Esq.\ with its forest of 1666 acres. The house was built about 1687 by an Earl of Scarborough; but has been a good deal altered. In it is some good Gibbons carving; and a suit of tapestry brought from Flan- ders by tlie first I-ord Scarborough. 6 suits of tapestiy were made at Arras for Marlborough and 5 of his gene- rals. This Stanstead suit is the largest, and represents the battle of Wvueudaal. The forest lies W. of the house ; and is divided by 3 great avenues, of which the central one is 2 miles long. The tourist may either proceed t] trough Stanstead Forest by in- different roads to Complon, and so to Up Park, or he may ri^turn tiu-ough Kingly Bottom, and proceed to it by N. Marden. The whole of this country is interesting and picturesque. TTp Park ( Lady Featherstonehaugh, r.liout 3 m. from" Stanstead) is perhaps its finest point. The park is large, well wooded, and commands very wide land and sea views. The beech is the principal tree ; there are some clumps of very great size, shadow- ing the deep ferny hollows. The pa'i-k may be visited ; but the house is not generally shown to strangers. It was built at the end of the 17th cent, and is full of interesting col- lections, pictures, carvings, &c. — the most important being a collection of Sevres cluua, bought about 40 years since for 20,000i'., and which must now be worth five times that sum. From Up Park it is possible to pro- ceed along the line of the downs to Cocking and so back to Chichester. Nothing can be more picturesque than the scenery ; but much cannot be said for the roads. On the top of the downs at Treijford are 5 very high barrows, placed in a Ime, and called the "Devil's Jumps." A still longer, yet by far the most interesting excursion to be made from Chichester, is that across the chalk range to the Eoman remains at Biy- nor. Bignor may be visited from Brighton or Arundel by the help of the rail ; or a torn- may be taken from Arundel by Parliam and Bignor to Petworth, thus including the 4 most interesting points in this part of Sussex ; but the chalk hills, here most picturesque and remarkable, can nowhere be seen so well as in crossing them from Chichester to Bignor — about 12 m. The route should be by I^p "Waltham across Sutton Hill, and so down upon Bignor ; returning to Chichester over Bignor Hill and by the line of the " Stane Street." This will be a long summer- day's work. The distance, owing to steep hills and indifferent roads, cannot fairly be estimated in miles. Eartham,' 6 m. from Chichester, about ) m. from the main road, may be visited on the way. Hayiey's resi- dence here, inherited from his father, from whence the "Triumphs of Temper" were sent forth, and which was long a gathering place for the literary world of his time, was pur- chased from the poet by the Eight Hon. Wm. Huskisson, the statesman, and the first victim of English rail- roads. (For the best notice of Hay- ley, by Southey, see Q. E., vol. 31.) The house has been greatly altered. The cltnrrh has a remarkable Norm, chancel arch, of the same type which occurs at Amberley and Steyning. The rest is E.E. In the chancel is Sussex. Route 16.— B ignor. 323 a very beautiful monument, erected byFlaxman to a sonotHayley's. An angel holding in the riglit hand a palm-branch, raises, with the left, a coronal of flowers above his head. It is better than any of the Flaxman sculptures in the cathedral. The verses below, recording his son's " Gentle manners, his exalted mind, Modestly tirin, and delicately kind,'' are by the poet. In the N. aisle is a tablet to Wm. Unskisson, who is buried in the Livei'jjool cemetery. Eartham lies among the low hills at the foot of the downs, and the scenery increases in interest from this point. Shortly before reaching Up-Wultham, 4 m., a picturesque valley opens towards Singleton and East Dean. The hills are dotted with scattered wood among beds of fern ; and the chalk begins to disjilay itself more clearly. The little church of Up-Walthani is E. E. with a circular apse. There is no E. win- dow ; two small lancets are arranged on either side. At Littleton farm, a short distance beyond, the road turns up over Sut- ton Hill. The view N., that sud- denly breaks upon the spectator as he gains the top of the hill, will not readily be forgotten. The whole sweep of the weald is commanded, with hamlets nestled among tlieir trees at the foot of the downs ; circling round E., with Chanctonbiuy Ring as a termination. W. is Dune- ton Beacon, a still higher point than Sutton Hill. A steep, rough road descends to the Wliite Horse at Sutton, where the tourist had better leave his carriage, and proceed on foot to Bignor, 1 m., at which place there is no inn. The walk is through deep lanes with broken banks, over- hung with spreading oaks and sheaves of traveller's joy — the last a marked feature N. of the hills. At Bignor Church remark the lung lan- cets of the clianccl. In the church- yard are two very large yews. The mistress of the villa, whose assistance must be invoked, in order to see the pavements, which are now preserved luider lock and key, lives at an ad- joining farm. At the angle turning into the fields, remark a very jjic- tiu-esquo timbered house, with a pro- jecting upper story. Notlung can be more beautiful than the situa- tion of the villa itself. The colon- nades of its principal rooms opened toward the S.W., to receive the full warmth of such sun as was to be had " in ultima Britannia ;" and looked into the bosom of the green hills with their " holts" of beech and ash trees, their scattered jimipers and hawthorns. The Stane Street — the Eomau road from Reguum (Chichester) to Londinium — de- scends the hill obliquely in full view. Whoever he was, proprajtor or legate, who fixed his lares here, he was certainly not -without an eye for natural beauty ; although he may have had another upon the well- stored forests, the territories of Sil- vaiuis and the Dii agrestes, which spread round him in all directions. Bignor is the " Ad decimum," the station at the lOtli milestone from RefjHum (Chichester), of the Itine- raries ; a hulting-iilaee which was pro- bably established at this point of the Roman road on accountof the vicinity of the great vUla ; just as a modern railway "lord " procures a station iii the nt'igltbourh(.)od of his own resi- dence. The site of Ad decimum was doubtful until 1811, when the pavements were first discovered by the farmer to whom the land belonged, who sti-nck up a fragment in plough- ing. There are marks of the plough- share on many of the tiles. His family still own the villa ; and the story of his discovery should by all means be heard from the primitive old lady who shows the remains, and tells how her liusband found tliein when driving his father's team. Tlie fields liad always been known by the names of the "Berry" and 324r Route 16. — Bignor. Sect. II. tlie "Town" field; in the last of v.iiieh tliere was a tradition that the old " town " of Big"uor had once stood. The earth lay from cue to two feet thick above the pavements. The villa was of unusual dimensions. " The buildings have been traced to an extent of about GOO feet in length by nearly 350 ft. in breadth. The principal houseliold bixildings formed about one half tliat length. They stood round an inner court, w^hich was nearly a rectangular parellelogram. " ' — Wrajht. The chief apartments were on the N.E. side of tiiis court, and opened into a crypto- i)orticus, or ambulatory, surroumling tiie court, at tlie S.W. corner of which were baths and sudatories. There are three principal pavements. The largest, first discovered, was prol)ably that of the tricliniunr or great l)anqnetinghall ; an apartment i'.i 2 divisions, the smaller of whicli lies backward from the court. " It is not improbable that there was a cm-tain thrown across, by which the two rooms might at will he separated or thrown into one.' — TlV/;//«f. Its principal decorations are two cir- cular compartments, one 7 ft. 6 in. in diameter, the other IG ft. The smaller exhibits Ganymede and the eagle : the larger is di^^ded into six compartments, of which those remain- ing contain figures of dancing nymplis. 'i'iiis pavement so completely resem- bles one at Avenches in Switzerland, executed about the reign of Titus, that this Sussex villa has been assigned to the same period. In the centre of the larger compartment is a stone cistern, 4ft. in dianu'ter and 1ft. Sin. deep, having a round hole at the bottom, connected with a leaden pipe for carrying off the water. This is also found at Avenches, and not else- where. It may possiljly have served as a fountain. The uneven surface of the pavement is caused by the flues of the hyi^ocaust, by which the room was heated, giving way beneath it. A second pavement, W. of this prin- cipal room, displays a remarkable heail, covered with drapery, and with a leafless brancli at tlie siile, wdjich has been called AVinter, and thought to have been one of the four seasons figured at the corners of the pave- ment. It has also been suggested (but most improliably) that the head is that of a British Druid, with his mystic branch of misletoe. The re- maining ornaments of this room de- serve attention. The third pave- ment, a very important one, exhibits combats of Cupids, habited as gladi- ators ; Retiarii, with net, trident, and short sword ; Secidores, with shield, greave for the left leg, and crested helmet ; and Rudiarli, vete- rans, holding a rod, and regulating the combats. Four different scenes are represented. In one, the gladia- tors are preparing for the struggle. In another, they are engaged in it. In a third tlie retiarius is wounded, and the rudiarius is coming to lois assistance ; and in the last, he has fallen, and is disarmed. The N. end of the pavement has a semicircular division, witliin which is a female head ornamented with a chaplet of flowers, and surrounded by a nimbus of a light blue colour. It would seem that Venus and Juno brought their ancient rivalry into Britain, since the appropriation of this head is claimed by both. Tlie W. part of this room was ornamented by Doric columns, of whicli fragments remain. The pavement of a smaller room, 20 ft. by 9 ft. 9 in., is entire, and shows some graceful patterns. Another contains a curious example of the open fireplace — the "caminus"' or " focus" — upon which logs from the Sussex forest were piled up for warm- hig tlie apartment instead of the heated air from tlie hyijocaust. The remains of the bath, and of an exten- sive liypocaust for warming the su- datory, lie at the S.W. corner of the eoiut. There are jiortions of smaller mosaics, and of numerous other rooms. The amljulatory or "crypto-porticus," Sussex. Route 16. — Bignor, 6lo which siirroumlecl the whole court, was 10 ft. wide, with a beautiful tesselated pavement. The outer court was much larger than the inner, which contuincd the household buildings, and " seems to have been surrounded by bare walls, although traces of buildings were found in various parts of its interior. The walls of this outer court seem to have continued so as to surround the whole edifice, which perhaps, externally, presented merely the appearance of a great, irregular, square-walled en- closure." — Wright. Although tlio great size of the villa evidently marks it as having been that of one of the chief functionaries of the Kegniau pro\'ince, the mosaics, iu point of execution, cannot be compared to those of (Jorinium (Cirencester), or of Woodljoiu'ue in Gloucestershire. The work is much rougher, and the materials used are not so rich. There are no tessera; of coloured glass as at Corinium. At Bignor Park is preserved a gold ring found near the villa ; one of the finest ex- amiiles of Itomau art in precious metals whicli has been discovered in Britain. The work is chased, and set with an intaglio, representing the figure of a warrior holdhig a buckler before him. A few fragments of pot- tery, &c., are kept at the villa, iu huts which have been liuilt over the jiavements in order to preserve them. The present proprietor is, however, it is understood, anxious to sell the wliole of the remains. They should not be allowed to leave the spot. Half of the interest which at present attaches to them will be lost if they are removed to the British Museum or elsewliere. Bignor Park (J. Heywood Hawkins, E.sq.) was long an appendage to the castle of Arundel, and used for fat- tening deer driven iu from the forest. The house commands grand views of tlie Weald and South Downs. It was long the property of Nicholas Turner, Esq., whose daughters, Charlotte Smith of ' The Old Manor House, ' and Mrs. Dorset, authoress of the still more widely known ' Peacock at Home,' both resided here for many years. Many of Charlotte Smith's sonnets relate to this neighbom-hood and the banks of the Arun : — "Farewell, Arunal on whose varied shore My early vows were paid at Nature's shrine ! sighing- 1 resign Thy solitary beauties, and no more Or on thy roelcs or in thy woods recline. Or on the heath, by moonlight lingering, pore On air-drawn phantoms . . . ." The house contains some imiiortant collections, artistic and arcliieolo- gical, but is not usually .shown. Among them are " admirable im- 2)ressions of Albert Durer's etchings, and a marvellously beautiful bronze relief of Parisand Helena. " — Waagen. Parhain (see Rte. 18; may be visited from Bignor if the tourist remains in the neighbourhood for more than a single day. The country at the back of the South Downs is no- where more interesting or attractive tlian here, but sleeping accommo- dation is somewhat dilficult to i>ro- cure. There is a White Horse at Sutton, and another at Bury, both small inns, which may do well enough if there are no si)ortsmen or harvest feasts in the way. At Pul- horough and at Storringtoii, each about 4 m. off, are very tolerable iinis ; but at some distance from the best scenery. "Fuci, particularly a branclied species, Fucoides Targionii, occur abundtmtly iu tlie fire-stone, or upjier greensaml, at the foot of the chalk downs, near Bignor." — Mantdl. The return to Chichester should be made over Bignor hill. The road can scarcely be called one at all ; and although it is passable for wheels, a stout pony will do the work far better. Tire hill sides are here much more wooded than in other parts of the South Downs, and are picturesque in proportion. Tlie green coombes, and the patclies, de- Q 3 326 Boute 17. — East Grinstead to Hastings. Sect. II. licious to the eye and the imagina- tion, of " liolt ' and " shaw," as the little woods are locally named, to- getlier with the incessant play of light and shade along them, will recall Copley Fielding at every step. (Fur a general notice of the South Downs see Introd. : Sussex.) Bunj mU, the next E. of Bignor, has a large barrow or tumulus on the top. There is also a group of bar- rows on the S. ridge of Bignor Hill ; from the top of which a magnificent view opens seaward, with the Isle of Wight W., and beyond the Arundel woods, E., the hill crests above Steyning and Brighton. There is here a direction post from which the Roman road descends in a straiglit line upon Chichester, the cathedral spire terminating the vista. This luie may be taken, or anotlier towards Slindon (marked on the post). This last is a green road, with very pictur- esque trees scattered along its course. Bale Park ( — Fletcher, Esq.) stands on the very edge of the Downs. Re- mark the oak-like form taken by the beeches on this high ground. Slindon beeches, which are scattered up and dowai a valley at the back of Slindon Park, fidly deserve their celebrity, and should not be neg- lected by the artist. Slindon Park itself (Countess of Newburgh) is an Elizabethan house containing a long upper gallery. It is not generally shown. An older house here is said to have been built by an early Arch- bishop of Canterbury ; and Stephen Langton, the famous Archljiishop of Magna Charta (it is also asserted), died here. From this point the tourist may return to Chichester by the West Hampnett road. ROUTE 17. EAST GRINSTEAD TO HASTINGS. (This route will take the tourist over the " Forest ridge," one of the most picturesque parts of Sussex. The cross-roads are indifferent. Two days should be given to this excur- sion. The resting-place may be at Mayfield, at Maresfield, or (if much accommodation is not required) at a toleralile wayside inn, the " Cross in Hand," above Walcbon. The " Forest ridge " is the name given to tlie elevated tract of sand- stone wliich runs diagonally across E. Sussex from Horsham to Hastings. It is so called from the remains of the great Andredswood, which once covered it completely, and of which the forests of Ashdown, St. Leonards, Tilgate. and Worth are relics. For tlie geology of this tract, and for the history of its ancient iron- works, see Introd. : Sussex.) From Three Bridges Station a branch line runs E. to East Grinstead, 7 m. (Inn: Dorset Arms), whose church, on its lofty ridge, serves as a landmark to all the surrounding couutiy. East Grinstead Chui'ch has been 3 times rebuilt, the first havhig been destroyed by lightning in 1684. The tower of its successor fell in 1785, and was replaced by that now existuig ; lofty and pinnacled, and very effective at a distance. The ch. is ded. to St. Swithin, and con- tains (preserved from the earlier liuilding) a Brass of Catherine, wife of P. liCwkner of Brambletye (d. 1505). Here is also the tomb of Speaker Abbott (Lord Colchester), d. 1829. The principal object of interest in East Grinstead is Sackville College, founded 1(J09 by Robt. Sackville, 2nd Earl of Dorset, whose will provided Susssx. Route 17. — BramUetye. — Ashdown Forest. 527 1000?. for LiiilJiug this college, and 330?. per anuiim for the muhiteuauce of its inmates, a certain niuuber of poor men and women. The foimda- tion is one of the most liberal since the reformation, and recent improve- ments have much increased the im- portance of the college. The hall and chapel liave been rebrxilt since 1848, from designs by Butterfield, who has also superintended many lesser alterations. The college stands on high ground, and commands noble views towards Ashdown Forest. It is of grey sandstone, and forms a quadrangle, round which are ar- ranged the different apartments. A set of rooms on the N.W. side is called The Dorset Lodghigs, having been set apart for the accommodation of the founder's family. A warden, 2 assistant wardens, 6 brethren, and G sisters, make up the present establishment. The patron- age is m the Sackville family. The town of East Griustead con- tains many old timbered houses. About 3 m. S.E. from the ch. are the remains of Brambhtye House, of no great interest in tliemselves, and which certainly will not now be visited for the sake of any fictitious imi^ortance conferred on them by Horace Smith's romance. The house was built temp. James I. by Su- Henry Compton. In 1683 it was the property of a Sir James Eick- ards, during whose absence at a great hunt in Aslidown Forest, rims the tradition, the house was searched on suspicion of ti-eason. Large sup- plies of arms and other military stores were discovered, and the news was conveyed to Sir James, who escaped to Spain without returning to Bram- bletye House. This was left ludn- habited, and gradually fell into decay. The few remains are of James I.'s time ; but the scenery of the valley in which they stand is more attrac- tive than the ruins themselves. Not far from Brambletye is Forest Row, a straggling hamlet said to have been originally built for the accommodation of the lords and their retinue, who came to " rouse the hart" in the adjoining Forest of Ashdown. Kidbroohe (Lord Colchester) adjoins. At Tm-ner's Hill, W. of the Church of East Grinstead, is the birthi)lace of the river Medway ; which nms through Forest Kow and then turns northward on her way to the Thames her bridegroom. From East Griustead the tourist may cither descend at once upon Ma- restield ( Etc. 15), passing from thence either W. to Battle or S. to Lewes, or he may proceed by Hartfield and Rotherfield to Mayfield, thence mak- ing his way along the ridge to Battle. This last coiu'seis to be recommended. Some interesting places may be visited ; and the iieculiar scenery of this part of Sussex will be seen to the best advantage. In either case the tom'ist will skirt the wild district of Ashdown Forest, now bare and treeless, but once covered with deep woods of ash and beech, the greater part of which were destroyed for the use of the iron furnaces, when Sussex, and this forest ridge in especial, was the "Wolverhampton" of England. Ashdown is included in the elevated line of which Crowborough beacon is the highest point, and which stretches in a direction from N.W. to S.E. between the 2 ranges of chalk hills. In all this country ironstone is fomid hi more or less profusion ; and such names as " Furnace Pond," " Forge Pond," " Cuider Hill, ' " Hammer Pond, " constantly occur, indicating the sites of ancient iron works. (See Introduction: Sussex.) The greater part of Ashdown Forest lies within the manor of Maresfield, and like it, was attached to the honor of " the Eagle" or Pevensey. Amongst other lands assigned to John of Gaunt in com- pensation for his castle of Eichmond, was Maresfield, including the forest, which henceforth is frequently called 328 Route 17. — Hartfield. — Withyam. Sect. 11. " Lancaster Great Park." About 1 0,000 acres of the forest were en- closed within a fence, and well stocked with deer. Diuing the civil M'ars, however, the fences were broken down and the deer killed ; and the whole remained waste until the Eestoration, when it was granted to the Earl of Bristol. It is now divided among various proi^rietors. The whole" of the forest is open heathland, here and there rising into considerable elevation. At rare in- tervals, on the lower ground, a relic of tlie old wood still survives ; but the desolation, the prospect of which made Drayton's "Daughters of the Weald ■' " Under the axe's stroke fetch many a griev- ous groan, When as the anvil's wciglit, and hammer's dreadful soiuid, E'en rent the hollow woods, and shook the queachy ground," has been thoroughly accomplished, and the chalk downs are scarcely more bare of wood than the Forest of Ashdown. The scenery is wild, broken with deep "gills" and glens, and from the higher pouits wide views are commanded. Pepping- ford Lodge (John Mortimer, Esq.) is surrounded by an extensive park, well worth a visit for the sake of its pictm-esque scenery. Maresfhdd Furl; iJ. V. Shelley, Esq.) was one of the earliest Sussex residences of the Shelleys, who settled here temp. Hen. VIII. Hurfjidd (about 7 m. from East Griustead) lies on the N. edge of the forest. The chiu'ch has E. E. and Dec. portions. In this parish are some scanty remains of Bolehrook, an ancient house of the Saekvilles. It was of brick, and dated from the loth cent. Tliere are tine views from HoJlii Hill, P<-rry Hill, and High Beeches, all lying N. of the village and on the borders of Kent. IMuch of tVie church at Withyam, (2 m. from Hartfield) was destroyed by lightning early in the 17th cent. ; but there are still some E. E. por- tions. The Dorset chancel was rebuilt in 1G2I. It contains 3 monuments worth notice. The earliest is an altar tomb of white marble, for Kichard Earl of Dorset, d. 1677. An infant son lies m the 'centre ; the father and mother stand on either side ; the earl died before the monu- ment, originally intended for the son alone, could be erected. The 2 re- maining monuments are — Duke of Dorset, d. 1799 {NoUekens), and Duke of Dorset, killed by a fall from his horse, 1815 (Flaxman). Pope's verses on tlie Earl of Dorset, who died at Bath in 1705, usually prmted as " in the Church of Withyam " are not here, although the Earl him- self, " The grace of courts, the Muse's pride," is buried in the church. In this ch., as in Hartfield, and others througliout the district, are several iron tomb slabs, of local manufactiire. They are said gene- rally to indicate the graves of pro- prietors of foundries. S.E. of the cliurch are the remains of BiuMiurst, for many centuries the residence of the Saekvilles. Early in the 17th cent, the family obtained a grant of Knole in Kent from the Crown; having represented the "ex- treme bad ways ' which made travel- ling difficult in the neighbourhood of Bucklnu'st. Thither they removed, and the stately old mansion of Buck- hurst was suftered to fall into decay, a part of the materials being used for building Sackville College in East Gruistead. The size and import- ance of the ancient house may be estimated from the ground-plan in Wulpole's ' Anecdotes of Painters,' vol. i. The solitary survivor of so much magnificence is tlie gate tower, of no very great hitercst. Adjohiing is the modern house of Buckhuist Park (Lord Delawarr). From Withyam the tourist may make his way through the N.E. Sussex. Route 17. — Heathfidd. — Cade Street. 329 skirts of Ashdown Forest to Crow- horougl) (4 m.), the greatest eleva- tion in tliis part of the couutiy (804 ft. above sea-level). The view over the foreground slopes of fern, across the shaduw-swept^^'eald to the South Downs, is worth all the labour of the ascent. The sea is visible near Beachy Head. Crowborough was one of the great Sussex beacon sta- tions ; and the "beard of flame" on its crest has blazed up on more occasions than the approach of the Armada. 1 m. E. of Crowborough Hill is Roil I er field, one of the few Sussex churches which can Ijoast of a spire. The original chm-ch was founded by " the ealdonnan Bcrhtwald of Sussex," who had been cured of a grievoiis sickness by a visit to tlie shrine of St. Denys, and who, having brought back with him some relics from the monastery, built a ch. here on his "Villa of Eidrefeld," in which to place them. Berhtwald after- wards (in 792) gave his church to the Abbey of St. Denys, which foiuida- tion established a cell here. The present ch., ded. to St. Denys, is mainly E. E., and lias an open roof of chestnut. It has lately been well restored, when a mural painting, representing the martyrdom of St. Lawrence, was found near the pulpit. From Eotherfield, by cross roads, the tourist may visit Maijfield (3 m. seelUe. VI.) All this country will be best ex- plored by the pedestrian, who will find his pilgrimage in search of the pietiu-esque amply rewarded. Owing to the pecixliar formation of the Hastings sand, the whole district is In-oken into hill and valley, forming a class of scenery quite distinct from that of any other part of Sussex, and strongly resembling some corners of Devon. Nothing of this is seen from any line of railroad. The " pictu- resque old villages, the veneraljle farms niched into the hill sides, with the ' wallet' oak in front of tho porch, and the green loisli- or meadow below," the hollow with its group of old ash-trees, and deep lanes himg with fern and wild flowers, afford a succession of pictures well worth the seeking. Tlierc are tolerable coun- try Inns at Mayfit-hl and at Maresfield, which the tourist will find good centres. From Mayfield a lower spur of the forest ridge may be reached at Ilenthfield, 6 m., tln-ough scenery of the character already noticed. The summit of the ridge will be gained at Cniss-in-hfind, where is a small country inn. The view from this point is magnificent, extending far over the Weald E. and W., with the line of the S. Downs and the sea in front. Heathfield ch. is of no great interest. Ileathfield I'ark (G. E. Towery, Esq.) was long the residence of General Elliot, the famous defender of Gibraltar ; whose title of Lord Heath- field was derived from this place. The house has since been greatly altered. The park is very fine, and c(jmmands noble views : the South Down range in especial is seen well from here. At tlie N.AV. corner is Heathfield Tower, a mark for the entire weald, rising as it does from ground abuut GdO ft. above sea-level. It was built in honour of the hero of Giltrtdtar (Cali:)es defensori), by Francis Newbery, Esq., to whom Lord Heathfield's .successor sold the estate. From the top of the tower the views embrace much of Kent and Sussex, with the coast-line from Beachy Head to Hastings. 40 churches are visible. The scene is fine, but not finer than that from Cross-in-hand. About ^m. from Heathfield Park is Cade Street, where a tradition asserts that Jack Cade, the proposed reformer of the commonwealth, was killed by Alexander Iden, Sherifl' of Kent. Cade is said to liave been playing at bowls in the garden of an alehouse in the village, when he was 330 Route 17. — BrightUng Down. Sect, n struck dead by a shaft from Ideii's bow. Heathticld in Kent also claims to have been the scene of Cade's death ; but his name was conuiion throughout this part of Sussex, of which, in spite of Shakespeare (see lite. 8, Ashford), he seems to have been a native ; and he is known to have been a follower of Lord Dacres, to whom Heathtield Park then be- longed. The pillar at Cade Street, marking the spot of his supposed death, was erected, like Heathfield Tower, by Mr. Newbery. One of the largest iron furnaces in Sussex was situated about 1 m. below Heathfield ch. The cannon cast here bore a high reputation, and were considered the best manufactured at an English foundry. Traces of the furnace and banks are still visible ; but all working has long ceased. At Warbletun, adjoinuig Heathfield S., are the remains of a Priory of Avigustinian Canons, removed from Hastings by Sir Jolm Pelham, temp. Hen. tV. The remains, now ad- joining, and forming part of, a farm- house, may be worth examination ; at all events the beauty of the site will repay a visit. Tanner asserts that the intention of removing the monas- tery " never fully took effect;" but the buildings were evidently erected, although flic Canons may not have been settled there. Warbletou Church contauis the very fine Brass of William Prestwick, Prior of Battle (d. 143G). The ap- parel of the Cope bears the inscrip- tion " Credo quod redemptor mens vivit." The canopy, crested with the " pelican in her i)iety," deserves espe- cial notice. A loft in the tower is said to have been used as a prison during the Marian persecutions ; but the visitor need not place implicit confidence in certain so-called ap- pliances for torture exhibited on the door. Richard Woodman, the prin- cipal Sussex martyr, whose long ex- amination will be found in Fox, was certainly confined at Warbleton. He was an iron-master ; and the sites of his foimdry, and of his dwelling- liouse, adjoining the churchyard, are still pointed out. After long im- prisonment he was burnt with others in front of the Star inn, at Lewes. Burkstcep and Cralle are old man- sions, now farmhouses, in this parish, and may rejiay a visit. There is a very extensive view from Iivood, S.E. of the village. In the parish of WahJroa, S.W. of Heathfield, are the remains of 3 fine old residences : Horeham (of the Dykes) ; Tanners (of the Fullers) ; and Fopingworth (of the Dalrymples). All thi-ee are now farm-houses. Keeping along the ridge toward Battle, DalUiigton, 4 m., commands a noble view from the church tower. The Pelham Buckle appears on the outside walls. BrirjMling JDoimi, which the road here skirts, is the highest part of the ridge ; it commands perhaps the finest panoramic view throughout the Weald, — which figures in Turner's " Coast Scenery," though not without a considerable display of " Turnerian topography." The French coast is occasionally visible ; and a grand sweep of Sussex, Kent, and Surrey, stretches away into the blue distance. The highest point of the Down is marked by an observatory, 64G ft. above sea-level, built by J. Fidler, Esq., of Rose Hill Park. Not far from it is a lofty pillar, also a con- spicuous landmark, and said to be visiljle from the neighljourhood of London. The site of the ancient beacon on this Do\vn is called " Browns Burgh." Brightlhig Church contains some fragments of stained glass, but is of no very high interest. Bose Hill (A. E. Fuller, Esq.), and Soehnersh (John Hallaway, Esq.), are in this parish. From Brightling the tourist may if he pleases find his way through a country full of deep lanes, and steep, short hills, to Ashhurnhum Flace Sussex. Route 17. — Ashhuniham. 331 (Earl of Ashhuniham), 4 m., a place which ought to he one of the most interesting in Sussex, hut which is in reality one of the most disappointing. The most adventurous wanderer will sound his horn before its portals in vain. The reli(;s of Charles I. given to his attendant Jolin Ash- bumham, and by one of his suc- cessors " bequeathed to the parish for ever," " to be exhibited as great curiosities," have been removed from the chm-cli, where they were long- preserved, to Ashburnham House — where, together with other collec- tions of great iiiterest, they are en- tirely inaccessilde to tlie public. The relics (whieli were exhibited at Manchester) consist of the shirt worn by Charles on the scaffold, still show- ing faint blood spots on the wrists ; the khig's watch, his white silk drawers, and the sheet tlu'own over the body after the execution. " The superstitious of the last, and even of the present age, have occasionally resorted to these relics for the cure of the King's evil." (Ilorsfidd.) The finest private collection in England of MSS. and printed books is at Ashburnliam Place. The printed books nearly equal the Grenville Library ; and the MS. collection, so far as Latin and European languages go, is periiaps the most splendid dis- play of ancient literature ever broiight together by a subject. Amcwig other treasures preserved liere is the well- known collection of BISS. made by M. Barrois, a Belgian, which con- tains some of the most valuable productions of Netherlandish art. The house also contains a collection of old plate, well deserving of ad- miration and study ; and among the armour is an Elizabethan embossed suit, an object of the highest rarity and value. Three well-known pic- tures — the portraits of Rainier Anslo and his mother, by Eemhrandt (one of liis most important works) ; a village festival by Tenters ; and a fine landscape by Cuyp—viere bought in at the sale of Lord Ashburnham's collection in 1850, and are probably still at Ashburnham Place. Ashburnliam Churrli stands in the park close to the house, and is ac- cessible, though not without some difficidty. It was entirely rebuilt by the same John Ashburnliam, " of the bedchamber" to Charles I. and XL, who died in 1671. It contains the monument of himself and his 2 wives ; and of his brother. Sir William Ashburnliam. The grey cliureh tower combuies well with the red Inick of the mansion, tlie greater part of which is modern, and wliich stands, with gables and a U'fty tower, a picturesque mass on a knoll in a wide " coonibe " backed with steep woods. No part of this mansion, the residence of Fuller's " family of stupendous antiquity, wherein the eminency hatli equalled the anti- quity," is shown. There is a public patli through the park, which tlie stranger will do well to follow. It commands very striking views, and on the S. side the wliole line of coast is visible, terminating in the grey cliff of Beacliy Head. Bertram de Eshlnu-uliam was " vice-comes" of Kent and Sussex at tlie time of the Conqueror's invasion. Harold's writ, commanding liim to assemble the " posse comitatimi," was, says Fuller, " lately in the possession of this family." Ashburnham was famous for its irou-furnace, the last which ceased working in E. Sussex. Its site, with the " hammer ponds," still remain in tlie N. part of the parish. Ashburn- liam iron was tlie best in England. " It excelled in quality of toughness ; and I have been assured by smiths who have used it, that it was no wise inferior to the Swedish metal, gene- rally accounted the best in the world.' (ilf. A. Lower.) A drive of 4 m. tlirougha pleasant open country, witli the grey old abbey in siglit nearly the whole way, will bring the tourist to Battle (see oo^ JRoute 18. — Horsham to Slioreham. Sect. II. Pite. 12), whence he may pioeeud hy railway (G m.) to Radiiujs (^Kte. 12). ROUTE 18. HORSHAM TO SHOREHAM. By rail to Horsham (London and Brigliton Eailway, Horsham branclij, thence by road to Shoreham. A short l)rancli line of 9 m. runs from the Three Bridges Station, on the Brighton Railway (Ete. 1-1), to Horsham. At IJ m. Crawley, is a small Dee. church, which has been restored. Tiie oaken roof is now uncovered, and on one of tlie tie-beams is carved the legend — " Man yn wele bewar ; for warldly good maketh man blyiide. Bewar be lor whate comyth be hinde." In the centi'e of the village is a pic- turesquely-shattered old oak-tree. The line proceeds through a wooded district (part of St. Leonard's Forest, see pod) to 9 m. Horsham (Pop. of parish 5947. Jniis : King's Head ; Anchor). The name, says tradition, is from tlie Saxon chief Horsa, who, it is also asserted, was killed near this place. A mound at Horded, near Aylesford in Kent, is also pointed out as his tomb ; no doubt the true signification of the name is liors-hain, the horse meadow. There is some pleasant country in the neighbourhood 'of Horsham, but the only object of interest in the place itself is the Churcli, which well deseiTcs a visit. It is E. E. witli Perp. additions. The nave and chan- cel are of one pitch ; the chancel gable being terminattd on eitlier side by E. E. buttresses, capjied with re- markable iiilastered pinnacles. Tlie interior roof is Perp. ; the lofty arches E. E., as is the clerestoiy. Portions of the tower may be Nonn. The large chantry adjoining the. N. porch is apparently that called the Trinity Chantrv, founded by Sir John Caryll, temp. Hen. VIIL Horsham was long in the hands of the powerful house of Braose, to whom the building of the church may be attributctl,and whose wealth seems to have been as freely bestowed here as at Shoreham (see jjos^ and Rte. IG). In the chancel are — the altar tomb, with effigy, of Thomas, Lord Braose, d. 139G : much nmtilated and scratched, but important as an armour study — the tomb, witli effigy, of Elizabeth Delves, d. 1054 ; in white marble and very good ; the feet rest on a lion, one liand on a book — and a canopied altar-tomb of Sussex marble, said to be that of Thomas Lord Hoo, d. 1455, who long acted as Chancellor of France, and rendered very im- l^ortant services to Heniy VI. both as soldier and statesman. Queen Eliza- beth was comiected with him through the Boleyns, and it is said that the tomb was repaired by her order after one of her Sussex progresses. Ou the chancel floor is the Brass of a priest in a lettered cope. E. of tlie churchyard is the Gram- mar ScIjooI, founded 1532 by Richard Collier. The quarries from which the Hor- sham Stone is obtained, with which the town is paved, and many Sussex churches are roofed, are about 1^ m. from the town, but are now little worked. Local celebrities are — Nicholas of Horsham, a physician tenq). Hen. VI. and Barnaby Lintot, the famous publisher, born here in 1G75. To his press the world is in- debted for Gay's 'Trivia' and Po])e"s ' Iliad and" Odyssey.' Sussex. Route 18. — St. LeonarcVs Forest. ooo OOO From the clmrel lyard a pleasant path leads into Deiine Park (C. G. Eversfiekl Esq.), which is open to the public. The park is itself high ground, and connnands fine views over the N. Weald ; Leith Hill and Tower forming conspicuous land- marks. The house is old and partly covered with ivy. A fine beech avenue, worth visiting, fronts it. From a mound marked by some tir-trees near the entrance from the Horsham road is a good view over the town,half- buried among trees. Chestoorih, the ancient residence of the Braoses, ad- joins Denne Park. It is now a farm, but deserves examination. 1 m. E. is Coolhurst (C. S. Dickens Esq.). The house is Elizabethan, and lately reltuilt. St. Leonard's Forest, containing about 11,000 acres, lies E. of Horsliam and forms a part of the parish of Deeding ; from the rest of which, ad- joining Bramber, the castle of the Braoses, it is separated by three entire hundreds. Tliere was m the N. E. quarter a chapel of St. Leonard, which may have given name to the forest. No remains exist. St. Leo- nard, whose emblem is a vane, be- sides his more especial office of assist- ing and releasing prisoners, was one of the patrons of travellers by sea and land ; and his cliapels, both here and at Hastings, were in the direct routes of passengers to Normandy. St. Leonard's forest was held by the Braose family probably from the time of the Conquest, and is now divided among several proi)rietors. It is mostly oak and beech; but has some ancient jjine scattered through it; and there are extensive planfci- tions of larches. 3Iike Mill's Mace, the principal avenue in it, is 1^ m. long and contains 15,000 trees, none of which, liowever, are of more than 80 j'ears growtli — tlie older avenue havmg been entirely destioyed by a tremendous storm of wind. Mike I^Iill, says tlie tradition, ran the dis- tance for a wager, and dropped dead at the end of tlie race. The eleva- tions within the forest are not great, though i)arts are picturesque, and tliere are some deep " gills " or water- courses. It was formerly asserted that, like the entire county of Devon, the forest could lioast of no nightingales. Althougli the country round about, says Andrew Borde " ys replenysshed with nyghtyngales, they will never singe within the precincts of the foreste, as divers keepers and other eredilde parsons dyd show me." The nightingales were said to have once disturbed a hermit who had fixed his cell in the forest ; he be- stowed a curse upon tliem in return for their songs ; and from that time they were unable to pass the boun- daries. "CrediJjle parsons" hi the neighliourhood now, however, assert that, although the nightingales are very capricious — singing in one wood and altogether avoiding the next — they nevertheless abound within the limits of the forest. A greater wonder still was tlie " strange monstrous ser- pent or dragon, lately discoveied, and yet living to the great annoyance and divers slaughters both of men and cattle, in St. Leonard's forest, August 1(J14 ;" but this southern " Dragon of Wantley" never attained to great celebrity. Its history seems to have been developed from an earlier le- gend, which asserts that St. Leonard himself f lught v.ith a " mighty worm in the forest. The strife was renewed at many difierent places, and wherever the saint's Idood fell to the ground patches of lilies of the valley sprang up. These llowers still abound here in the spring, when all the neighljour- hood "goes a lilying." A gloomier piece of folk-lore declares that a headless phantom springs up behind the traveller on horseback through the forest by niglit, and cannot be dis- lodged until the 1 loundaries are passed. The Anui and the Adur, two of the principal Sussex rivers, both have their main sources in this forest; and the Ouse rises a short distance oo4 Route 18. — Horsham to Shoreham. Sect. II. without the southern bouiidaiy. Tlie two large " hammer ponds " not far from Coolhmst are relies of the old Sussex iron -works (see Iiitrod.). Their bottoms and sides are studded with a fresh-water mussel (Anodon anatina), locally known as the " Crow mussel" from the eagerness with which it is sought and devoured by the carrion crow. In the forest are Holmbush (T. Broadwood, Esq.), picturesquely si- tuated, and St. Leonard's Lodge ( — Hubbard, Esq.) ; 4 m. from Horsham, and S. of St. Leonard's Forest, is Nuthurst, in which parish the woodland scenery is perhaps more attractive than that of the forest it- self. Nidhurst Lodge (I. T. Nelthorpe, Esq.) commands very fine views, in- cluduig a distant fringe of sea. ^ m. N.W. from the house are the remains of an ancient castle, which for some centimes after the Conquest belonged to the family of " Le Selvage," and tiien to the Braoses. The founda- tions are circular, and surrounded by a wide moat. An adjoining well, lined with large blocks of stone, is called the " Nun's Well." The little cliurch of Nuthurst is ancient and worth notice. At li/n^per, 5 m. N., was the small Benedictine Prioiy of St. Mary Mag- dalene. Its origin and date of foim- dation are very uncertain, though it was i^robably established by the family of Braose. There are no traces of the Priory except the name of Numiery House given to its suc- cessor. At a farm called Normans the family of Mutton professes to liave been established since the Con- quest. A chest is jireserved here, said to have been " brought over the water" by the "Mutton" who arrived with the Conqueror. The ch. has some E. E. portions. In it are lialf-length Brasses of John and Agnes Kyggcsfeldge, about 1375, and others of Thos. and. Marg. Challouer, 1.532. Ktitpp Castle, 6 m., with its por- trait gallery (see Etc. 14), may be visited from Horsham. The excur- sion may easily be made to embrace the Nuthurst woods and scenery (see ante). There is no public conveyance from Horsham to Pulborough ; but horses and cai'riages are to be had at the King's Head. Crossing towards tlie Staue Street, 1 m. rt., is Field Place, the birthplace of Shelley (Aug. 4, ] 792). Here the poet passed the first years of his life, one of liis greatest amusements being the management of a boat upon Warnham pond ; and here, after leaving Eton in 1809, he wrote the ' Wandering Jew,' a long metrical romance, portions of which were imblished in 1831 in ' Eraser's INIagazine,' and the greater part of 'Queen Mab.' He never returned to Field Place after his marriage. The house stands low, and com- mands no prospect ; some portion is ancient, but it has been much al- tered. It came into the possession of Sir Bj'sshe Shelley, the poet's grandfathei; tlu-ough his marriage with the heiress of the Michell family, which had resided there for many generations. Behind Field Place lies Warnham Court (Sir H. Pelly), a large modern Elizabethan man- sion. Warnham pond, m the S. part of this parish, covers 100 acres. The Chm-ch of Itchingfield, 3 m., has a low tower constructed of roughly squared oak timber, which is however not earlier than the late Dec. period. There are similar towers at Warnham and at Slinfold. The ch. itself seems to have been originally E. E. A skull and cross- bones were formerly fixed on one of the roof-beams here, a "memento mori" which has only lately been removed. 2 m. beyond Itchinfield the cross-road joins the Roman Stane Street, which ran from Regnum (Chi- chester) to Londinium (Ijondon). Billingshurst, 1 m., lying on this road, like the metropolitan Billings- gate (where the road ended), probably Sussex. Route 18. — Pulborough. retains the name of the great Saxon tribe of Billing, of which an ott'sct settled here. The ch. well deserves attention. The S. side is very early Xornian ; the rest, mainly Perp.; Brass, Thos. and Eliz. Bartlett, 1489. Wisborough Green, off the road, rt., is one of the places considered by Kemble as having been consecrated to Woden, nnder his name Wise (Wish). The ch., on an insulated hill, perhaps occupies the site of an heathen place of worship ; it is E. E. almost without alteration. The road, which passes straight through the Weald, although showing l^atches of forest on either side, is not very picturesque until it reaches Pulborough, 5.| m. The large church has portions (chancel and N. aisle) E. E., the rest early Pei-p. The whole is of a type unusual ui Sussex, though common in the W. and mid- land counties. The font is early Norm. Brasses: Thomas Harlyng, Canon of Chichester and rector of Kingwood and Pulborough, 1423 (fine) ; Edmund Mille and wife, 1452 ; and Ed. Mille, Ins son (in furred gown) 1478. These were removed from a sepulchral chapel of the Mille family, formerly in the churchyard. Due W. of the ch. is a circular mound, partly artificial, on which was a Roman "castellum," commanding the jimction of the Arun and Kother. A foimdation arch still remains. Remains of a circular Roman IMausoleimi were found at IMare's hill in tins parish in 1817. There are traces of a villa, which has been very imperfectly ex- amined, at Borough, N.E. of the N^illage, on the brow of a hill over- looking the Weald. Roman urns and coins have frequently been found ; and one of four Roman jiigs of lead, all of which were stamped with the letters — " tcltrpvibrexarg" and discovered here in 1824, may now be seen in the gallery at Parham. The inscription has not been satisfactorily explained. The whole of these re- lics are due to the neighbourhood of the Roman road — the Stane Street — which passes through Pulborough m its way to Biguor and Chichester. A short distance below the church are the remains of Old Place, the mansion of the Apsleys. They seem temp. Hen. VI., and are worth ex- amination : what remauis of the barn, is perhaps earlier. There is a small inn (The Swan) at Pidborough, at which very toler- able accommodation can be had. The coimtry round has many points of hiterest, although the best scenery, close under the South Downs, is still at some distance. At Ilardham, 1 m. S., are the scanty remains of a small priory of Augus- tinian Canons, founded by Sir William Dawtrey temp. Hen. II. The exist- ing arches and mouldings are Trans. Norm., but of no great interest. The rude E.E. ch. is dedicated to St. Botolph. Opposite the priory is a Roman entrenchment called Chanc- tonburij, about 400 ft. square, mark- ing the S.W. course of the Stane Street. Pulborough is a central point, from wliich the tourist may proceed — first, along the course of the Rother to Petworth <;j m., passing Stopham, Fittleworth, and Egdeau. The coun- try is pleasant and varied, and there is a fine \aew from a hill above Stop- ham^ the church of which place is interesting. It is partly Norm, and contains a series of Brasses of the Bartelott family, hereditary sene- schals to tlie Earls of Arundel, from their first settlement here in the 1 4th cent, to the time of Charles I. The fragments of stained glass are said to have been brought from the hall windows of the ancient manor-house, now rebuilt. — Or he may descend upon Arundel, 9 m., cro.ssing Bury Hill. — Or thirdlj', proceed by a cross line which here joins the Stane Street, l>assiiig at the back of the South 336 Route 18. — Ambcrley. Sect. II. Downs, through Storiingtou ;iud Steyniug to Shoreham. Storrimjton, 3\ m., lias a tolerable luu, the White 'Horse. An omnibus runs from here every other day daring the summer, through Steyn- iug to Worthing. Tlie ch. contains two monmuents by Westmacott. Ex- cursions may be made from here to Amberley and Parham. The road to Amherleij, ?>\ m., passes close under the South Downs, but not where they are most attractive. Tlie village itself should be visited for the sake of the fine ruins of the castle built here by Bp. Eede, tenii^. liieh. II. These stand on a low sand roek, overlooking a marsh called the "Wild Brook" {hrooh is generally used in Sussex to signify a marsh), from which in smnraer much turf is cut, and a profusion of cranberries gathered, but which is Hooded in winter. The river Anm runs through it, and here are still caught the "Amberley trout," one of Fuller's "four good things" of Sussex. They are salmon peel. The casUe formed a parallelogram, having a square tower Qt cacli corner rising above the walls, and two round towers (S.) flanking the gateway, which is not unlike tliat of Lewes. This part is sufficiently jiicturesque. The N. wall is the most perfect. On this side was tlic chapel, of which there are still some indications. The present dwellhig- liouse, in the upper or Green Court, was built by Bp. Sherburne 1.5US. In one of the apartments, called the Queen's room, were long preserved some curious paintings on pannel, of tlio same character as the series of liishops in Chichester Cathedral, the work of one of the Bernardis. These have now disappeared : but the carved ceiling is still worth enquiring for. The bishoj^s of Chichester seem to have had a residence here from tlie l)eriod of the Conquest, but it was not castc^llated until ],379. It was plundered and dismantled by Wal- ler's trooi) after the surrender of Arundel in 1G43. The castle is still an appendage to the see, but has long been under lease. The little Clmrch of Amberley will be found scarcely less interesting than the castle. It has Norm, and E. E. portions. The Norm, chancel arch resemliles that of Eartham, but has an enriched solfete. The S. door is very rich E. E. On the S. wall are traces of mural painting, and the red consecration crosses remain on the N. and W. walls. Adjoining the pulpit is an liom--glass stand. In the S. aisle is a small Brass of John Wantell, 1424 ; a tabard with short sleeves, worn over the armour, is enamelled, vert, with 3 tiger's heads argent. The difference between Amberley in its winter and smnmer dress is expressed in the local saying which makes the whiter reply to, "Where do you belong?" "Aniberiey — God help us :" and the summer; "Am- l)eiiey — where woidd you live ?" The best views of the quaint, old- fashioned village, with its long castle walls and low church-tower, are gained from the Arundel road on the farther side of the river, where the downs form a picturesque back- ground. Close beyond, the Arun runs seaward through its gap in the downs, passing under Bury Hill. Parham (Hon. K. Curzon), 1\ m. from Storrington, may be visited in returning from Ambcrley, and is one of the most interesthig places in Sussex. The house is Elizabethan, with some modern additions, and like many Sussex houses of the same character, lies close under the Downs, in a fine old chase, full of the most picturesque scenery. It was built by Sir Thomas Palmer, early in the l(jth cent., and passed in 1597 to the family of Bisshopp, represented by the present baroness de la Zouch. The great interest of Parham how- ever lies in the collections of armour, ]MSS., early printed books, ancient plate and metal work, enamels, &c., l)rincix)ally made by the author of Sussex. Houte 18. — Parliam. 337 the ' Monasteries of the Levant.' The libraiy contains about 100 ^sTitings on tablets of stone and wood, or on rolls, including 1 ancient Egj^^tian MS. on hncn, and 22 on papyrus ; others on vellum, &c. ; and about 200 MS. books, mostly folios on vellum. These are interesting from their great antiquity, 4 or 5 being of the 4th century, and several, in the Greek, Coptic, and Syriac languages, haviiig been written' before the year 3000. Some are richly illuminated. Many are bound in faded velvet, orna- mented with bosses and plates of silver-gilt. The New Testament m the Coptic language has been printed by the Society for promoting Chris- tian Knowledge, priucii^ally from the MSS. at Parhara, which have been freely tendered to any persons desi- rous of studjang them. The early printed books are about 200 in num- ber. Among these are the Maza- rine, German, and Greek first Bibles ; the 5 folio editions of Shakspeare ; the Monte Santo di Dio, tlie earhest book containing copperplates ; seve- ral Caxtons, and books printed by Wynkyn de Worde ; the German and Latm editions of De Bry's Voyages ; and a chrty-looliing folio (from the Malone and Chalmers collections), containing Montaigne's Essays, 1(303, and A World of Wonders, 1G07, with the autograph of W. Shakspeare in the begimiuig. Here are also the first editions of Homer and of Vu-gil, on vellum ; &c. &c. There is also a collection of ancient gold and silver plate, consisting of reliquaries, cups, salvers, &c. ; early enamels, carvnigs in ivory, and early metal-work. Some of these are set with jewels, or are remarkable for the beauty of their workmanship or then- higli antiquity. Of these, be- tween 60 and 70 are ecclesiastical ; and about 170, things not belonging to the church. In the same room with the collection of works in metal are several early pictures in dis- temper, by Giotto, Giovanni Bellini, and others, including an early work of Eaifaelle, when he was studying under Pcrugino at Perugia. These collections are of course not generally shown. The rest of the house and its contents are made ac- cessible to strangers with great libe- rality. The hall has the arms and quar- tering of Elizabeth, on the wall, over the spot where the queen is said to have dined, in the year 1592, on her way to Cowdray. Pound the walls, and in tnie ' armoires' Ceases for armour), placed in the window re- cesses and behind the screen, is a most imjiortant collection of armour of all coiuitries and ages, tiie greater part of wliich however is of the 15tli cent, and came from the desecrated chiu'ch of St. Irene at Constautmople, where it was piu'chased by Mr. Curzon. It is the armour of the Christian knights who defended Con- stantinople against the Sultan Ma- homet II. in the j'ear 1452. A MS. account of this purchase, and of the principal objects of interest m the hall, drawn up by Mr. Curzon him- self, lies on tlie great table, and the visitor will do well to consult it. Remark especially, in the armoire which stands in the oriel, some pieces of armour engraved by Hans Bmg- mair for Maximilian of Austria.— A shield which belonged to the un- fortunate Courtenay Earl of Devon, who caused so much jealous feeling between the sisters Mary and Eli- zabeth. — A German executioner's sword, which has done severe duty in its time, and which may be ho- noured, if not for its deeds, at least for the result of them, since the executioner became ennolded after having officiated a certain number of times. — A thumb-screw, and cuii- ous lock from an old house pulled down in the High Street at Chiches- ter. — Two antique helmets (one Etruscan) from a tomb in the Nea- politan territory of Bari, and tlie linest yet found, with the exception 538 Route 18. — Parham. Sect. II. of a similar one preserved at Bignor Park : and a small model of a helmet found at Castri (Delphi), and pro- bably " the salve of some ingenious Greek who had vowed a .helmet to Apollo." — A cylindrical English helmet of the 12th cent. — Venetian helmets of the 15th cent., retaining their original covering of red velvet. Here is also some rich Mameluke horse furniture. In the case behmd the screen is some 15th cent, oriental armour from St. Irene, deserving at- tentive notice, especially a breast- plate which may perhaps have be- longed to the Sultan Mahomet II. ; and a gauntlet and chamfron of copper gilt, which, from the Arabic inscriptions on tliem, appear to have been made for Saladin. Among the groups arranged on the walls, re- mark particularly some gilt and em- bossCLl shields of Italian workman- ship. In the small draimng room are : a Holy Family by Pontormo, brought from Italy by Mr. Curzon ; two Ostades; and four remarkable ena- mels on copper, representuig the seasons, by Pierre Courtois, of Li- moges. In a cabinet in this room are some smaller Eastern curiosities. In the dining-room, among others, are portraits of Lady Frederick Campbell, the widow of the Lord Ferrers who was hanged, by Gains- horough ; and Lady Wilmot Horton, with the autograph verses ui^on her by Lord Byron, beginning, "She walks in beauty like the night." The large drawing-room is full of jiortraits of very liigh interest. Henry IV. (Pourhus). A superb Vandy'ie, of Mary Curzon, gover- ness of Charles I.'s children, and honoured by a public funeral in Westminster Abbey. The Constable Bourbon {Titian), a grand portrait which has been more than once en- graved. Sir Philip Sydney, Lady Sydney, and the Earl of Leicester, all three full-lengths, by Zucehero. Of more uncertain charactei', but all worth notice are — the Prince of Orange, father of William III. ; Lord Crewe, Bp. of Durham ; Lord Maltravers, eldest son of the last Fitzalan, Earl of Arundel ; Earl of Worcester ; Sir Francis Walsing- ham, father of Lady Sydney; and Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick, elder brother of Leicester. The three portraits in tliis room to be especialhj remarked, however, are the Vandyke, the Titian, and the Zuc- ehero of the Earl of Leicester. On either side the fireplace hang two curious landscapes on copper, by Marco Ricci ; a sketch of St. John, by Buffaelle; a Holy Familj', by Jacobello Flores, the master of Era Angelico ; and on the opposite wall, a large Holy Family, by Carlo Mar- ratti. Here are also two very fine busts, Poppsoa (?) and Augustus Ca?sar ; the last wonderfully grand. In the Morning Boom is a good portrait of Lady De la Zouch, by Angelica Kaufman. The Old Li- hrartj beyond is hung with Venetian stamped leather, having Chinese de- signs. In ascending to the Gallery, at the top of the house (alwaj-s a great feature in a true Elizabethan man- sion\ remark the small window open- ing into the kitchen, from which the mistress might occasionally inspect the progress of operations below. The Gallery is 158 ft. long, and contains a series of historical family pictui'es, many of which are curious. Among them are, Queen Elizabeth at the age of 25. Sir Henry Wootton, by Cornelius Jansen. Sir William Harvey of Ickworth, " third husband of Penelope Darcy, daughter of Earl Eivers, who promised her 3 suitors, Sir George Trenchard, Sir John Gage, and this Sir William Harvey, that she would marry them all in turn," which she did. Charles Paget, brother to Lord Paget, con- cerned in the Babmgtou plot, and concealed for some time, mider the name of Eoper, on this coast (possibly Sussex. Route 18. — Parliam. 339 in Parham), -whence be escaped, 1586. A large water-colour drawing, about S ft. square, of the Murder of the Innocents, by Eajf'aelle : this formed one of the hangings in the aijartments of the painttr, in his palace in the Borgo, at Eome. In one recess is a good collection of china, and m another a very remarkable as- semblage of " literary antiquities,' MSS., inkstands, and writhig imple- ment.-^, — among them the pencase of Henry YI., from Waddingtou Hall, Yorkshire. On the opposite wall are someEgj'ptian antiquities, and others, brought from the East by Mr. Cur- zon. The most interesting is an ark of Egyi^tian sycamore, from Thebes, white and powderj^ and covered in front with hieroglyphics, among which is the cartouche of Amuuoph I., 1550 B.C. It is thus 50 years older than the Mosaic Ark of the Covenant, the form of which m all probability resembled this at Par- ham, although the dimensions were rather larger : — Length. Width. Height, ft. in. ft. in. ft. in. Ark of C. . . 4i 2 3 2 3 Parham Ark 2 9 11 14 The ark, when discovered, was filled with small images of Egyptian divi- nities. On the floor is the Roman pig of lead from Pulborough. The views from the gallery win- dows, toward the Downs on one side, and to Pefrworth Park on the other, should not be unnoticed. At the farther end of the gallery is the chapel. Over tlie door are three half-lengths (St. John and two monks), tlie work of Andrea, brother of Luca della Robbia. There is some good wood-carving in the chapel, some early stained glass, and a cui'ious font (Elizabethan) from a ch. in Oxford. A wooden one re- sembling it exists at Moulton in Lincolnshire, and one in marble at St. James's in London. The church closely adjoins the house, but contains nothing of great interest. The font is leaden, and of the 14th cent. The forest-like j^ark, or rather chase, with its thickets of birch and whitethorn, and its wide branched elms and oaks, the latter especially grand and picturesque, is one of the finest in Sussex. On all sides the artist will find sylvan pictures of the highest beautj', with a back- groTind of green hill caught here and there between the rich masses of foliage. Here, in the centre of a thick wood of pine and spnice fir, is one of the few remaining English heronries. Advancmg witli the ut- most caution, the visitor may per- haps invade the colony without dis- turliingit, and hear the "uideseribabla half croaking, half hissing soiuid," uttered by the young birds when in the act of being fed. The slightest noise, however, even the snapping of a stick, will send off the parent birds at once. " The herons assemble early in February, and then set a1)out re- pairing their nests ; but the trees are never entirely deserted duruig the winter months, a few birds, probably some of the more backward of the preceding season, roosting among their boughs every night.'" (A. E. Knox). Thej' commence laying early in Blarch, and from the time the young buxls are hatched, imtil late in the summer, the parent herons forage for them day and night. The nimilier of nests has gone on increas- ing of late years, there being now 57. The Parham heronry has its history Early in the reign of James I. the ancestral birds were brought by Lord Leicester's steward from Coity Castle, in Wales, to Penshurst. There they continued for more than 2 cen- turies, and then migrated to Michel Grove, not far from Arundel, and about 8 m. S.E. of Parham. About 17 years since Michel Grove was bought by the Duke of Norfolk, who pidled down the house and felled 1 or 2 trees in the heronry. The 340 Route 18. — Wiston — the Shirley s. Sect. II. birds at once commenced their mi- gration, and in three seasons all had found their way to the Parham woods. A clump in the vicinity contains a raven's nest, the only one now known in this part of the country. An ac- count of the migration of these ravens from Petworth is given in IMr. Knox's amusing work. From Storrington the road to Steij- ning still keeps close luidcr the Downs. The villages of Sullingion and Washington are picturesque, hut need not delay the tourist. Wiston (4 m.) is more important. Some of the grandest Down scenery is in this parish, includmg Chandonhury Iting, with its dark clump of trees, a land- mark for half Sussex. It is tlie third height of the S. Downs (see Introduc- tion : Sussex), being 814 feet above sea-mark. The entrenchment here is circular, and may be of British origin, but Roman coins have been found : and the Eoman road, nnuiingE. and W., passed not far from the foot of the hill. The views in all directions from tliis camp are grand and pano- ramic, though the scenery is perhaps not so manageable for the artist as that among the hills farther E., above Bignor and Sutton. Wiston House (the Eev. John Goring), below the hill, besides its historical interest, commands views of extreme beauty. The park itself is very fine and undu- lating, and the terrace overlooks the whole richly wooded valley, E. and W., a scene which will not readily be forgotten. The house, like Parham, is Elizabethan, but has been greatly altered. The hall, 40 ft. square and 40 ft. high, is very fine, and has a magnificent wood ceiling of Cliarles I.'s time. The manor long belonged to a branch of the great Braose fa- mily, from which it passed by mar- riage into the hands of the Shirleys one of whom, Sir Thomas Sliirley, built the house about 157G. The family was remarkable in many ways. Sir Hugl: Shirley, the first who set- tled in Sussex, was a stanch adher- ent of the Red Rose, and one of the 4 knights who, clad in royal armour, successively encountered and fell under the arm of Douglas at Shrews- biu'y, 1403. So Shakspeare — " Hold up thy head, vile Scot, or thou art like Xever to hold it up ajrain ! the spirits Of Shirley, Stafford, i?lunt, are in my arm?." K. Hen. IV., Pt. 1, act v. so. 4. His son was present at Agincourt, and his grandson. Sir TItomas, had by Anne, daughter of Sir Thomas Kempc of OUentighe in Kent, 3 sons, the famous " Shirley Brothers," whose adventures were so full of romance, and appeared so wonderful in that age, that a play was comjoosed from them, " by a trinity of poets, John Day, Vvilliam Rowley, and George Wilkins," 1G07, and acted durmg their lifetime. Antliouy Shirlcij (b. 15G.5), after ser\iug in the Low-Country wars, and against the Portuguese settlements on the coast of Africa, " where,'' says Fuller, " the rain did stink as it fell down from the heavens, and within 6 hours did tiuu into maggots," went in 1.598 to Per- sia, on a mission, half religious, half mercantile ; his main object being to induce the Shah to join the Christian l^owers against the Turk. He sailed from Venice ; discovered cofi'ee at Aleppo, " a drink made of seed that will soon intoxicate the brain ; ' and, after sundry perils from Turks and Bedouins, reached Ispahan, where Abbas Shah created him a "Mirza' (the first instance of a Christian receiving an Oriental title), and ap- pointed hun ambassador to the courts of Europe. After a long series of adv<'ntures worthy of an Amadis or a Palmerin, he died in 1630. liohert Shirh-ij, his yoruiger brother, had ac- companied hun to Persia, where he remained, having married Teresia, daughter of a Circassian named Is- mael Khan. He too was sent (or at least professed to have been sent, — see, for the whole story, Burke's 'Anecdotes of the Aristocracy,' vol. i.) Sussex. Route 18. — Stei/ning. 341 as ambassador back to Europe, and arrived in Kome wearing the Persian costume, with a crucifix stuck m liis turban. TJience he returned to Wis- tou witli liis wife, was well received by James I., and, after sundry changes, died at Kazvcen in Persia in 1628, and was buried tliere under his own threshold. Teresia ended her life in a Roman nuunery. In 1(J22 Van- dyke painted at Eome the j)ortraits of Eobert Shirley and his wife, now at Petworth. Thoums, the eldest of the 3 brotliers, after a life full of changes, sold Wiston, and died in the Isle of Wight. Their story is a curious exami)le of the love of wan- dering and adventure which then prevailed in England as elsewhere, and is not without a dash of Sjjanish kn i gh t- err a n try . No Sliirley relics now exist in the house at Wiston, but the Church con- tains some interesting monuments. That of Sir Richard Sliirley (died 1540) exhibits liim standing on a rock between his 2 wives, with his hands sti'etched towards a dove, represent- ing the Holy Spirit. At the sides are 2 brackets for figures of patron saints. Thedetails are Italian. (Com- pare the monuments at Selsey and West Hampnett, Rte. 16.) Against the wall is the monument of Sir Thos. Shirlej-, father of the Ijrothers, and builder of Wiston. Under an arch, on the N. side, is a very interesting effigy of a child in a close vest, pro- bably a son of Sir John de Braose (died 1426). Sir John's own fine Brass, inlaid, and powdered all over with the words " Jesu Mercy,'' lies on the floor of the S. chapel. The adjustment of the sword is miusual. All six shields have the arms of Braose. " Es testis Christe, quod non jacet lapis iste coipus ut ornttur, sed spiritus ut memoretin-," runs its in- scription, one commonly repeated in the brasses of this period. The ch. itself is Dec. At Steyninq, l^m., is a tolerable Inn (the White Horse), from which \_Kent & Sussex.'] an omnibus runs three times a week to the railway station at Shoreham. The Church of Steyning, now the main interest of the place, was ori- ginally founded by S. Cuthman, who, born in one of the western counties, was dm-mg his youth in the habit of miraculously guarding his father's sheep by making a circle round them, which no enemy could break through. On liis father's death he travelled E. with his mothei-, who was infirm, canyhig her on a sort of liarrow. The cord broke, and Cuthman re- placed it by some elder twigs ; a part}' of hajanakers close by ridiculed him, and ever after a shower fell on that meadow when the hay was down. The twigs at last gave way again at Steyning ; and here, after buildmg a hut for his mother and himself, heoon- structed a timbered church, in which he was buried. The country was covered with brushwood and thinly inhabited ; liut many pilgrims came to Cutlmian's grave, and the town gradually sprang up round the church. (See life of S. Cuthman, Acta S. Feb. 4, quoted in Sussex Archseol. Coll.) The neighboiu'ing palace of the Saxon kings at Bramber no doubt gave imiiortance to the settlement. Ethel wolf, father of Alfred, is said to have been buried in the ch. of Stey- ning .\.T>. 858, but his body was after- wards removed to Winchester. The Confessor granted Steyning to the Benedictine Abbes, of Fe'cauq) in Normandy, and "mlliani confirmed the grant. A cell existed lieie nearly on the site of the present vicarage. At the suppression of alien priories (1 Edw. IV., 1461) Steyiung was transferred to the Abbey of Sion. Cuthman's church seems to have been on the site of that now existing, the position of wliich is very accu- rately described in the early life of the Saint. The present church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is no doubt the work of the Et camp Benedictines. It is of two periods. The E. archeB R 342 Route 18. — Bramher. Sect. II. of the aisles, and the piers of the E. tower-arch, are early Norm. ; the rest not earlier than 1150. The chancel is modern and indift'erent. The ori- ginal plan of the Iniilding seems never to have been completed (Hus- seij) ; tliere was apparently an inten- tion of erecting a central tower ; and the last piers of the nave are partially inchidf d in the wall, as if not origin- ally meant to cease where tliey now do. Tlie present tower is at the W. end. The nave contsiins " one of the most remarkable series of enriched pier-arches to be met with anj^vhere" (Sharpe). These were, as usual, carved after erection, portions being still unfinished. They belong to the second period (circ. 1150). The chancel-arcli resembles that in the clrarch of Graville in Normandy, which also belonged to Fe'camp. (Compare also those at Eartham and Amber ley.) The old gabled house in the street leading to the church is called the ^'Brotherhood Ilnll," and was given by William Holland, Alderman of Cliichester, for the jjurposes of the Grammar School which he founded here in 1614. The tide seems anciently to have risen as high as Steyning, the har- bour of which was known as " Tortus Cuthmamii.' It was the higliest and most ancient harbour here ; the sea having gradually retired, first to Old, and then to New Shoreham. The advantage and importance of the haven no doubt induced the Saxon kings to establish a fortress at BramJmr, 5 m. from the town ( Sax. Bnjmmhurh, a fortified hill), possibly on the site of a Koman castellum, for an ancient road passed from Dover to Winchester, under the Downs ; and the remains of a Romaii bridge have beendiscovered on ithere, atBramber. After tlie Conquest, the castle and baroi^y were granted to William de Braose, and it was one of the princi- pal strongholds of that great family. As Arundel guarded tlie entrance to the Aruu, so this watched over the estuary of the river Adm*. The view from the KeeiJ-mound is very striking. Like Amberley, the castle stands on a sort of promontory overlooking the marshes and tree-dotted meadows of the Adur. The sea is visible S. and E., and W. the hills stretch away in rounded outlines of extreme beauty. Remark the steep escarpment of the chalk hills W., rising direct from the plain, like sea-cliffs, as they no doubt once were. (See Lyell, Geol. ; and Introd., Sussex.) Of the actual build- ing there are few remains. It formed an irregular parallelogram encircled by a deep moat, now filled with trees. The banks are famous for "wealth" of primroses. A solitary fragment of a lofty barbican tower lifts itself within " like a tall tombstone of the mighty race of Braose." In it is a Norm, window witli herring-bone masonry. The Church, dedicated to the favourite Norm, saint St. Nicholas, nestles close under the castle-wall. It lias some Norm, portions, and seems to have been originally cruci- form, with a central tower. The road from Steyning to Shore- ham, 5 m., runs parallel with the Adur river through the Shoreh am Gaj\ one of tlie transverse valleys of the chalk. " These cross fractures, which liave become river channels, remark- ably correspond on either side of the Weald N. and S. Thus the defiles of the Wey in the N. Downs, and of the Arun in the S., seem to coincide in direction." (Lyell.) The trans- verse fissures were probably caused "by the intensity of tlie vip-heaving force toward the centre of the Weald" during the elevation of the Forest ridge. (See Introd.) Although the Adur here by no means recalls tlie sunsliine of its Pyrenean namesake (both rivers retain the Celtic Dicr, water), it is tlie liaunt of many rare water-birds. " The river above Shore- ham, as far as Beeding Levels, during the spring and autumnal months, will generally repay the patient ob- Sussex. Route 19. — Godalming to Chichesta 343 server, or the persevering gunner, who explores its muddy banks ' (A. E. Knox) ; and " the reed warhhT and its beautiful nest may be found during the mouth of May in the reedy ditelics a little to the W. of the old wooden bridge, about a mile above Shoreham." (/(/.) The new college at Lancing is conspicuous from the road. For it and for ShortJiam see Kte. 16. ROUTE 19. GODALMING, HV PETWORTH and MIDHURST, TO CHICHESTER. For Godalming, see Handboohfor Hampshire. A coach leaves Godalming daily, after the arrival of the midday trau), for Midhurst, passing through Pet- worth. On alternate days it goes on to Chichester. 1 m. 1. is Mllford Ilnuse (H. Knowles, Esq.\ The small eh. oppo- site was built in 1S3G. W/'tley Church, 2 m., is E. E. with a central tower. Some of the windows are early Dec. There are some fragments of Pei-p. stained glass. On an altar tomb under an open arch between the two chancels is a good Brass of " Thomas Jonys and Jane his wife," one of the servers of the chamber to Henry VIII. The whole church has been well restored. From Witley the road rapidly descends toward Chidding- fold, 3 m., in the Weald. The deep clay is here tliickly covered with wood, and the green, branch-shaded laJies are enlivened liy the venerable Ked Riding-hood cloak, still much worn throughout the district. About Chiddingfold green, over which the road passes, eleven glass-houses were in existence temp. Eliz. The work- ing was then prohibited, on a petition from the inhabitants, complaining of them as a nuisance. Cuiders and glass fragments are still found here. The ch. is mainly E. E. with some later portions. We are now fairly in the Weald, where the ninnerous old timbered farms and manor-houses constantly remind us of the ancient wealth of oak forest ; the solitudes of which, in their turn, have preserved many yeomen families, representatives of Chaucer's Franklin, throughout long generations. The Entyknapps of Pockford, in this parish, are said to possess a Saxon charter relating to their farm, which has been their property ever since the Conquest : and the families of Wood and Child are of almost equal antiquity. The famous ironstone of the Weald here begms to appear, and there are re- mains of furnaces in the S. jjart of the parish. The hard C'arstone or Clinhers, connected with this iron rock, is much used for road-making. Hence the excellence of the high- ways throughout this part of SiuTcy and Sussex, strongly contrasting with the "deep clay and mire" of the ancient roads. Chiddingfold is one of a group of folds ; ancient cattle enclosures in the midst of the woodlands, which have grown into parishes. Dunsfold, about 2 m. rt. of the main road, has an early Dec. ch. of some mterest, since it is nearly all of one time. The smuU ch. of Alfold, 3 m. beyond, is Trans. Norm, and is dedicated to St. Wilfred, the first preacher of Christianity in this district. The country here is still covered with wood, and little grain except oats is producible. 2 m. beyond Chiddingfold we enter Sussex : 1. are the undulating hills and woods of ShiUinglee Parle (Earl of Winterton), withua which is a lake R 2 344 lloiite 1 9. — Petworth. Sect. ir. covering about 70 acres. There is liere some fine forest scenery. The road however lias no special interest until we reach Petwortli, G m., the long park wall of which it skirts for about two miles. The town oi Petworth (Pop. of pa- rish, 3500— Inns: the Half Moon, best ; the Swan) is a mass of narrow and irregular streets, which have grown up about the ancient manor of the Percics ; who, however, verifying the old Danish proverb, that there are three bad neighbours — a great river, a great road, and a great lord — cared more for their parks and chases than for the town ; and Leland says that it had much increased "syns the Yerks of Northumberland used litle to ly there." But its later lords have done much for Petworth. The market-house in the centre of the town, with its bust of William the "Deliverer," was built by George O'Brien, Earl of Egremont; and beyond the ch. is an almshouse founded by Duke Charles of Soiuer- set in the early part of the last cent., a remarkable specimen of the brick building of that time. The church, Perp. for the most part, was restored by Lord Egremont : and the spire is an early work of Sir Charles Barry. Its most interesting portion is the large N. chancel or chantry, originally dedicated to St. Thomas of Canter- bury, in which many of the Pcrcies are buried. A memorial of them was erected here in 1837, by Lord Egremont, then in his 8Gth year : "Mortuis Mori turns. ' It is a figure of Religion leaning on a cross, at the foot of which is placed an open Bible. The left hand holds a chalice, and rests on a kind of sarco- phagus. The sculptor is Carew, "jias raeme academicien. ' " Proh pudor academiiio, non academicus," runs the inscription : but the work is not too good. The Percies commemorated and buried here are the ninth Earl, long the victim of the Gunpowder Plot ; Algernon, the tenth ; and Jos- celine, the eleventh, in whom the male line became extinct. Lady Lucy Percy, Countess of Carlisle, also rests here, and a further inscrip- tion records the somewhat doubtful fact that in this ch. is buried Josce- line de Louvain, who, temp. Hen. I., first brought Petworth into the t\xmily of the Percies. A far more successful monument is the sitting figure of Lord Egremont himself, which " Bailey /ac(ek(< 18-10." The altar-tomb against the N. wall be- longs to a knight of the Dawtrey family, 1527. The painted vault- ribs in this chapel are not to be admired. The grand interest of Petworth, however, and that which makes it a resort of art pilgruns from all parts of Europe, is the P'(»7; (Col. Wyndham\ witli its vast and superb collection of pictiu-es. Few English " honours" can show a more undisturbed succession than this. It was granted by " Alice la Belle,' dowager Queen of Henry I. (part of whose dower it had formed), to her brother, Josceline de Louvain, of the great house of Brabant. Josceline married Agnes, heiress of the "Percies owte of Northumber- land ;" and the manor has ever since continued in the hands of tins great family and its descendants, passing, after the death of the last Earl in 1700, to Charles Duke of Somerset, who married Lady Eliza1)eth Percy, only child of Earl Josceline, and through his daughter Catherine to the W\^ldhams, in whose hands it now remains. The old castellated house of the Percies seems to have occupied the same site as the present mansion. "It was," says Fuller, " most famous for a stately stable, the best of any subject's in Christendom . . . aifording standing in state for three- score horses, with all necessary ac- commodations." Edward VI. was en- tertahied here for some days ; and in 1703 Ciiarles III. of Spain,"" Catholic king by the grace of the heretics," as Walople calls him, rested some days liere on his way to visit Queen Sussex. Route 19. — Petworth. 345 Anne at Windsor. Such rest was needful, as the king had " made no stop on the way from Portsmouth, except when his coach was over- thrown or stuck in the mud." He was met liere by Prince George of Denmark, who had encomitered simi- lar misfortunes in approaching Pct- wortli from Godalming. Tlie Allied Sovei-eigns, the Prince Regent, the Emperor Alexander, and the King of Prussia, who, together with the Prince of Wirtemhurg and the Grand Duchess of Oldenburg, ^asited the Earl of Egremont here in ISli, were happily subjected to no such perils during their progress over roads to which the Sussex " clinlcers," or iron- stone, had by that time been applied. Nearly the whole of the earlier building was removed by the Duke of Somerset, the old chapel being the principal part left. The mass of the present house is therefore of his time (about 1730), but numerous alterations and additions were made by George O'Brien, Earl of Egre- mont. It cannot be said that the house possesses the slightest architec- tural attraction. The front towards the park resembles a strip from an indifferent London terrace, of which the long straight line is only broken by the church spire rising at the back. The Petworth collections are at present, with very unusual liberalitj^ made accessible to strangers at all times (with the exception of an hour in the middle of the day), whether the family are occupyhig the house or not. Application should be made at the porter's lodge, hi the iipper part of the town. The Grnnd Staircase, into which the visitor is first conducted, was painted by Louis la Guerre for Duke Charles of Somerset. The story throughout is that of Prometheus, with the exception of the right-hand wall, where the Duchess of Somerset (the Percy heiress) appears on a triumphal car, surrounded by her daughters. The paintings are ex- cellent specimens of La Guerre ; but the visitor should not linger here, since he has a serious extent of work before him. For the story of the great Percy heiress, "three times a wife and twice a widow before she was IG," and the cause of the famous murder of Thynne, of Longleat (her second husband), by a disappointed suitor, the Count von Konigsmark, see Burke's ' Anecdotes of the Aris- tocracy,' vol. i. Her father, Earl Josceljn, died at Turin, aged only 2(j. The heiress of all his vast estates was married at 13 to the young Earl of Ogle, son of the Duke of Newcastle, who died within a few mouths ; then to Thynne, of Longleat ; and, after his murder, to Charles Duke of So- merset. She ched in 1722, aged 55. Of the pictures, many of the Van- dykes rank among his finest works, and so many genuine pictiu-es by Hol- bein as are here assembled are rarely to be seen. The works to be chiefly noticed are — Square Dining-room. — Portrait of himself (?) : Tintoretto. Philip II. of Spain: Sir Aidonio More. Male por- trait : Titian. Portrait of Philippe le Bel, father of the Emperor Charles V. : School of Van Eyck. Male por- trait : Van Cleef, according to Waa- gen, but generally attributed to Hol- J)ein. Portrait of a man : School of Giovanni Bellini. Catherina Cornaro, Queen of Cji^rus : Titian. Titian's daughter Lavinia holding a kitten : Titian. Queen Catherine Parr : Hol- bein. Duke of Brabant and his daughter Bega, trachtional foundress of the Beguines : Jordaens. Grand landscape, Jacob and Laban : Claude Lorraine. " This picture, which Wool- lett's masterly engraving has made universally known, is, in point of size, freshness of the silvciy morning tones, carefulness of execution, and delicacy of gradations, one of the most important works of the middle period of the master." — (Waagen.) Holy Family with Angels : Andrea del Surto. Virgin and Child : Sir J. ?A6 Ro-ite 19.— Pefworth. Sect. II. Jteynolds. Tlie young Singer anil the old Connoisseur : Hogarth. Allegory of events in the reign of Charles I. : Tenters. Portrait of "Woodward the comedian : Beijuolds. Oliver Crora- ■well : Walker. Joseeline Percy, 11 tli iind last Earl of Northuniljerland, with a dog : Sir P. Lehj ; very good. The following are all by Vandijck, and deserve the most careful atten- tion. Algernon Percy, 10th Earl of Northumberland, with his Countess and child : tliere is a repetition of this picture at Hatfield, Marquis of Salisbury's. Sir Charles Percy. Anne Cavendish. Lady Eich : " The landscape background is unusually fine." Mrs. Porter, lady of the bed- chamber to Henrietta ]\Iaria ; Henry, Lord Percy of Alnwick; Mountjoy Blount, Earl of Newport ; and Lord Goring, with his son. Earl of Straf- ford : " The somewhat heavy brown- ish flesh-tones were doubtless true to life, as they recur in all Vandyck's portraits of Lord Strafibrd. " Henry Percy, 9th Earl of Northiunberland Csuspected of having been privy to the Gunpowder Plot, and confined for 16 years in the Tower) : " This picture belongs in every respect to the great masteii»ieces of Vandyck." William Prince of Orange (father of William III. of England), as a child. Duke of Somerset's Boom. — Card- players : Jan Matsys son of Quentin^. Corps-de-garde : Eeclchout. Ijaud- scape : Lucas van Uden. Two land- scapes : Hohbema. Sea-shore with buildings : Claude. " The etfect of the clearest morning light is here given with the utmost delicacy." Portrait of Claas Van Vourhoot, "Brouwer in dos Brouwery Swaan' — Brewer in the Swan brewery — (written on the back) : Frank Hals. Edward VI. under a canopy, date 1547, tlie year of his accession, astat 10: Holbein. The Archduke Leopold, with an ecclesiastic and tlie painter, in liis picture gallery at Brussels, of which Teniers was the superin- tendent : Teniers. " The imitation of the diiferent masters in tlie variou.s pictures is very happy."' Landscape : Gaspar Poussin. Landscape: Sivan- eveldf. Mouth of a cavern, looking out into the country : Old Teniers. View of Scheveling, where diaries II. embarked on his return to England, May24, IBGO: Van Goyen. Portrait of Thomson, the poet : Hudson. Henry Percy, 9th Earl of Northum- berland, painted in 1602, wlien he was serving in the Low Country wars : Vansomer. Prince Kupert : Varelst. Portrait of Brughel, the artist (" Vel- vet Brughel ") : Vandyck. On the oak staircase observe two concerts of birds, attributed to Sny- ders by Dr. Waagen, but generally assigned to Hondekoeter. There is a repetition of one in the Berlin Mu- seum. The Xorfh Gallery is almost en- tirely devoted to Eiiglisli art. There are some antique sculptures, most of wliich were collected for the Earl of Egremout by Gavin Hamilton. Their interest however is not great. Of the modern sculpture notice especially Flaxman's colossal group of the Archangel Michael piercing Satan with his spear, and a Shepherd Boy, by the same master, " one of his best works ' ( Waagen). One of ^V»' Richard Westrnacotfs most striking works is also here, a bas-relief illus- trating the passage of Horace : " Nou sine diis animosus infans," &c. The most important jnctures here are — Children of Charles I : Sir Peter Lely. Sleeping Venus and Cupid, and Vertnmuus and Pomona : both l)y Hoppner. A stormy sea : Cidcotl. Death of Cardinal Beaufort : Sir J. Ileynolds. Witches and cal- dron ; from Macbeth : Beynolds. Still water, with a rock and castle : Wil- son. "One of his choicest pictures." The Cognoscenti, Patch ; and the Punch-drinkers, a copy from Hogarth. In the last the two red coats disturb the harmony of the picture. A scene in Windsor Park : Hoivard. Musi- dora : Opie. Landscape, with shej)- Sussex. Route \9.—Pefiwi-th. 347 lierd and shepherdess in foreground (much darkened) ; and another with cows and sheep, very beautiful :. Gainshorourih. View in Westmore- land (Eydai Water) : Copley Fielding. Storm in tile Alps, with avalanche : Loutherhurg. The Invention of Mu- sic : Barrij. Edwin (Beattie's Min- strel ) : WestaU. Eape of Europa : Hilton. Michael leavhig Adam and Eve, having conducted them out of Paradise : Phillips. The Infant Shakespeare nursed by Tragedy and Comedy (Lady Hamilton) : Bomney. Mirth and Melancholy — portraits of Lady Hamilton and Mrs. Charlotte Smith, authoress of the ' Old IMaiior House :" Rornney. Portraits of Lord Eodney, Mrs. Musters, General (Gar- diner, Lady Craven and son, a huly with 3 children, ami the cliiklren of tlie Earl of Thanet witli a dog : all by Reynolds. Herodias with the head of John the Baptist : Fuseli. Jacob's Dream ; and Contemplation : by the American artist AUston. Garrick and Ids villa at Hampton : Zoffany and Hodges. Presentation "of Gulliver to the Queen of Brob- dignag ; and Sancho and the Duchess : Leslie. Portrait of Alexander P(jpe : Richardson. Dedication of the Prin- cess Bridget Plantagenet, daughter of Edward IV., to the nunnery at Dartford (an extract from Sandfords Koyal Genealogies is painted on the book at the foot of the pictm-e : the princess died at Dartford about 1517); Richard III. receiving the young Princes in the Tower ; and the Murder of the Princes : all three pic- tures by Norfheote. The mo.st im- portant pictures iii the Gallery, how- ever, are the Turners, of which tliere are many. The Thames and Wind- sor Castle ; the Thames at Wey- bridge ; the Thames near Windsor — an evening scene, with men drag- ging a net on shore ; the Thames from Eton College ; a scene at Tab- ley in Cheshire — the tower in the lake ; an evening scene with a pond surrounded by willows — cattle drink- ing, and men stripping osiers ; a sea- view, with an Indiaman and a man- of- . war ; Echo and Narcissus : and Jes- sica — should all be carefully noticed. Red Room. — Adoration of the Kings : Hieronymus Bosch ( Waageri); a remarkable jncture, whicli has been generally ascribed to Albert Durer. Travellers attacked by Robbers ; Louis XIV. and the Dauphin at Lisle : Viotli by Vander Menlen. A thunderstorm at sea : Simon de Vlieger. Battle of the Boyne : Dirk Muas. Hillv country near Nime- guen: Albert Ciiyp. ""Of the best time of the master ; and in com- position, transparency of colour, and unusual richness of detail, it is of the liighest merit :" Waagen. Two prelates kneeling : Ridiens. Portrait of Prince Boothliy ; a lady holdhig a letter ; a lady in a turban : all three by Reynolds. Portraits of Sir Robert Shirley and his wife Teresia. (See for a notice of the Shirleys of Wiston, Rte. 18.) These portraits are generally attri- buted to Vandyek, though Dr. Wiagen has some doubt. " They appear too feeble in drawing and too heavy in colour. " Bellori, however {Lives of the Painters), asserts that both Sir Robert and his wife were painted at Rome about 1622 by Van- dyek, then a young man in the ser- vice of Cardinal Bentivoglio ; and that the pictiires were preserved at Petwortli. Other Vandychs in this room are — Frances Howard, Duchess of Richmond ; and Anne Brett, wife of Lionel Cranfield, Earl of Middle- sex — the "bouncing kind of lady mayoress " conniiented on by Horace Walpole at Knole (see Rte. 0). Lodowick Stuart, Earl of Richmond ; and Ralph, Lord Hopton : both by Vansomer. Portrait of an unknown lady in black : Rembrandt. An Ad- miral, said to be Van Tromp : Van der Hist. Countess of Egremont : Gainsborough. Charles II. passing Whitehall in liis carriage : Stoop. The Carved Dining - room. — The 348 Boute 19.— Petivorth. Sect. II. walls and cornices of this room (60 ft. ! by 24, and 20 ft. high) are almost covered witli delicate wood carvings by Gibbons. "There is one room," wrote Walpole to Montague (Aug. 1749^, " gloriously flounced all round with whole - length pictures, with much the finest carving of Gibbons that ever mj^ eyes beheld. There are birds absolutely feathered ; and two antique vases with bas-reliefs as perfect and beautiful as if they were carved by a Grecian master." " Sel- den, one of his disciples and assist- ants," adds Walpole, in his 'Anec- dotes of Painting ' " (for what one hand could execute such plenty of laborious productions !), lost his life in saving this carvhig when the house was on fire." Jonathan Rit- son, a native of Cumberland, was employed by George O'Brien, Earl of Egremont, and afterwards by Colonel "VVyndham, in tlie completion of this room, which he has done in a style only inferior to that of his celebrated predecessor. Portraits of Gibbons and of Eitson, botli by Clint, hang at either end of this room, opposite the windows. It may be questioned whether the pictures here do not suffer from the dark framework of the panels, in which they are placed without the usual gilt moidding ; among them, remark — Charles Seymour, " the proud Duke " of Somerset ; and his first wife. Lady Elizabeth Percy ; both by KiieUt-r. Ijord and Lady Seymour of Trowbridge ; both by Jansen. A very fine portrait of Henry VIII., painted about 1540, by Holbein (that of Anne Boleyn is a copy\ In the lower panels a series of pictures by Turner deserve all attention. The sul)jects are — Chichester Canal, ^sunset ; Petworth Park, sunset ; Brighton from tiie sea ; aud the lake in Petwortli Park. Ante-room to Curved Room. — Por- ti-ait of Vandyck : Dohson. Sir Isaac Newton : KndJer dirobably the best portrait of Newton existing). Lord Chief Justice Coke: Jansen. John IMarquis of Granby : lieynolds. Por- traits of Colonel Wyndham, of Mrs. "WVndham and her sons : Grant. A nobleman at prayers, and two pil- grims : Van Eyek. Sketch for " The Preaching of Knox " in Sir Robert Peel's collection : Wilkie. Marble Hall. — Tiiree unknown porti'aits : Holbein. Portrait of him- self : Vandyck. Cervantes : Velas- quez (a very interesting portrait). Marshal Tiu-enne : Frank Hals. Por- ti-aits of himself aud of his wife : Rembrandt. Guidobaldo I., 3rd Duke of Urbino, from the Albani palace at LTrbino : Raffaelle. Cardinal de' Medici, afterwards Pope Leo X. : Titian; very fine. Paolo Cespedes, an eminent Spanish painter, circ. 1600 (artist unknown). Head of a youth : Bronzino. A stream with a ferry : Cuyp. Portraits of Macpher- son (translator of Ossian), Lord North, and Lady Thomond : Reynolds. Por- ti'ait of Mrs. Woffingtou the actress : Hocjarth. The Beauty Room — contains (in panels) the portraits of several ladies of the Court of Queen Anne, remarkable for their beauty. They are — The Countess of Portland : Duchess of Ormond ; Duchess of Devonshire ; Countess of Carlisle ; Lady Longueville ; Countess of Pem- broke ; and Lady Howe : all by Dahl. Here are also 2 pictures of Louis XIV. at Fontainebleau and at Maes- tricht : by Vander Meulcn, who at- tended tlie " Grand Monarch " on his military e:!^3editi()ns. White and Gold Room.— Here are five portraits of noble ladies by Vandyck, "which combhie all his qualities of elegance of conception, transparency of colour, and spirited treatment:" Waaf/en. They are — 1. Lady Dorothy Sidne}', Countess of Sunderland, Waller's " Sacharissa," and sister of Algernon Sidney. 2. Lady Lucy Percy, Countess of Car- lisle, " called by Bishop Warburton ' the Erinnys of her tune ;' and Sussex. Route 19. — Petworth, 349 undoubtedly the most euchauting woman at the court of Charles. Celebrated by Voiture, Suckling, and half the poets of tlie day, it would nevertheless have been better for her hud she courted respect more and admiration less.' (Jesse's Court of the Stuarts.) It was this lady's father, the 9th Earl of Northumber- land, who was confined for so many years in the tower. 3. Lady Dorothy Percy, Countess of Leicester, sister of the Countess of Carlisle, and mother of Lady Dorothy Sidney and Algernon Sidney, i. Lady Elizabeth Cecil, Countess of Devonshire. 5. Lady Anne Carr, Countess of Bed- ford, only daughter of the infamous Earl and Countess of Somerset, who were tried for the miuder of Sir Thomas Overbuiy. She was the mother of the unfortunate Lord Rus- sell, who was beheaded. This pic- ture is, perhaps, the finest in the room ; and has been especially praised by Leslie {Handbook for Painters). "It is the nicely discriminated in- dividual character of every part — the freshness and delicacy of his colour — and the fine treatment of his masses, that have placed Vau- dyck so high among portrait-pahit- ers." — Leslie's Handbook. Remark also tsvo pictures by Leslie — Charles II. saluting Lady Mar- garet Bellendeu (from 'Old Mor- talitv' ') ; and Lady Lucy Percy, Corni- tess of Carlisle, bringing the pardon to her father in the tower. During the Earl's imprisonment (he was sus- pected of having been privy to the Gunpowder Plot) he was allowed free intercourse with Sir "Walter Raleigh, a prisoner at the same time ; and Harriot, Hughes, and War-ner, three of the most celebrated mathe- maticians of the age, were the Earl's constant companions, and were called " the Earl of Northumberland's 3 Magi." These persons are all repre- sented in the pictru-e. Raleigh stands at the farthest end of the table. The globe near him was painted from one at Petworth as old as the reign of Elizabeth. The Library. — Virgin and Child : Correggio, "A beautiful picture; in his delicate, but much broken tones, like the 'Vierge au Pauier' in the National Gallery :" Waagen. Early Christians giving instruction : Fasqualino. " Giving Bread to the hungry :' Teniers. Portrait of Charles III., iving of Spain and Emperor, who visited Petworth in 1703 (see ante) Kneller. Ferdinand d'Adda, Papal Nuncio at the Court of James II. : Kneller. Portrait of Sir Ni- cholas Bacon ( fiither of Lord Bacon), ffitat. 68 (artist unknown). New- market Heath in 1724. The Duke of Somerset's horse "Grey "Wynd- ham," has just beaten the Duke of Devonshire s "Cricket.'' The Duke of Somerset, with his hat off, is speak- ing to the Duke of Cumberland : Wootton. Visit of the Allied Sove- reigns to Petworth in 1814 : Phillips. In this room also are 8 small pic- tures by Elsheimer, which should be noticed from the rarity of this artist's works. Numerous pictitres of less import- ance are arranged in the up-stairs apartments, which are not shown. The tourist should on no account leave Petworth without visiting the Park, of which the walls are about 14 m. in circumference. This, like the house, is liberally thrown open to the public, who may ride or drive in it at pleasure. " We were charmed with the magnificence of the park," wrote WaliJole, " which is Percy to the backbone." To a stranger fresh from the high grounds of Surrey or the S. Downs, the wide open sweeps of the lower park may at first seem tame, but his eye will soon take in the totally distinct character of the scenery ; and what gloiy the views can sometimes assiune he will have already seen within in Turner's pic- tures. There is a large piece of water in front of the house ; grand old oaks and beech-clumps are scat- R 3 350 Houte 19. — Midhurst. Ptct. II. tered over the heights aucl hollows ; ] and the whole is well peopled by j herds of deer. The Upper Park is steeper and | more varied ; and at its highest point I a noble view over the surrounding ! country is obtained from the I'rospeet Tower, which strangers should Vjy all means ascend. The ground here breaks otf sharply in a steep, heathery descent toward the N., a foreground with which the artist will not quarrel ; close below lies the ancient " Stag- Park,' enclosed and brought into cultivation by George O'Brien, Earl of Egremont ; and beyond, the view stretches away to the steep crests of Farnhurst and Heyshott, with the line of Blackdown extending behind them. S. are the S. Downs, with Clianctonbury King and its tree clump conspicuous ; and E. is a wide range of woodlands, the heart of the Weald. The Ravens" Clump, so called from its having been the aiumal breeding- place of a pair of those birds (see Kuox"s ' Oniith. Ramhles '), adjoins the ivied tower further E. (The ravens have now removed to Par- ham ; but lately (1857) have been seen ui the clump again, and may, perhaj)S, return to their old quarters.) The view is nearly the same as that from the Prospect Tower. The country lying N. and N.W. of the park, however — the corner extend- ing toward Hindhead — has an espe- cially attractive look, and will repay the sketcher's wanderings. From Petworth the villa at Bignor, 6 m., may be visited. (See P^xe. from Chichester, Rte. 16.) For a descrip- tion of the Petworth or Sussex marble, of which quarries are worked in most of the neighbouring parishes, see Introd., Sussex. The road to Midhursf, 5 m., crosses the country nearly parallel witli tlie line of the S. Downs, distant about 3 m. the whole way. The little church of Tillington, close outside the Great Park, contains some Dec. portions. That of Lodsworth, i ra. rt., has a sort of " open cloister of timber work " on the S. side. 1^ m. from Midhurst the road enters Cow- dray Park, which it crosses. The l)ark scenery here is of the finest and most " rememberable " kmd. (See post.) Outside the second park gate is the Church of Easeborne, Perp. in character, and originally attached to a small house of Benedic- tine nuns, founded by John de Bohun, temp. Hen. III. Of this there are same remams adjoining : the refectoi-y is now a barn ; and the dormitoi-y and some other portions may be traced. The S. aisle of the church, now ruinous, served as the nuns' chapel. In the chancel is a recmnbent eiiigy in alabaster of Sir David Owen (d. 1542 ), a natural sou of Owen Tudor, and in high favour with Henry VIII. The efligy, judguig from the armour, was made dming Sir David's lifetime. He married an heiress of the Bohims, who were also buried here. Here is also the marble monument of Lord Montague (d. 1591), the "great Eomau Catholic Lord," who with his sons and grandson, " a yonge child very eomelie, seated on horse-back," came attended l)y 200 horse to join Elizabeth at Tilbury ; a piece of loyalty which her Majesty never forgot. This monument has been removed here from the chm'ch at Midhurst. The old town of Midhurst (Pop. 1474 — Lms : Angel, Eagle, New Inn) stands on an eminence above the Rother, navigable fi'om this point to its junction with the Arun at Pul- borough. The " Schola Grammati- calis," which catches the eye on entering, was founded by Gilbert Hannam in 1672, and has enjoyed considerable reputation. Sir Charles Lyell the geologist is one of the most eminent of its pupils. The church, Perp., was chiefly remarkable for the great Montague tomb, which is now at Easeborne. On St. Anne's Hill, at the back of the town, may be SUSSKX. Route 19. — Cowdray. 351 ti-aced the foundations of the old Castle of the Bohims. The ruins of Cowdray, of which the tourist will already have caught a glimpse, 1., in passLug tlirougli the park, must not be left unvisited. Cowdray remained in tlie hands of the Bohnns mitil the reign of Henry VIII., when their heiress brought it to Su' David Owen. It afterwards passed to Sir Anthony Browne, " great standardbearer of England," created Viscoimt Montague in 1554, the first of seven viscounts in regular succes- sion. In 1843 it was sold to the Earl of Egmont, the present pos- sessor. There is a modern cottage residence in the j^arlc, not far from the ruins. The grand old house of Cowdray was entirely destroyed by an acci- dental fire iu 1793, and in the follow- ing month the last Lord Montague, still igjioraut of his loss in England, was drowned in attempting to shoot the falls of Scliaii'hausen. The house, like Cothele and Haddon Hall, was antique in all its fittings and "plenishing." "Sir," said Dr. John- son, when he visited it from Brighton, " I should liice to stay here four-and- twenty hours. We see here how our ancestors lived." It was built by Sir William Fitzwilliam, Earl of Southampton (whose mother after- wards married Sir A. Browne), about 1530, and was filled with treasures of every description ; amongst tliem a series of pictures said to have been by Holbein, and somemost interesting relics from Battle Abbey. At the upper end of the " Buck Hall "' was a stag carved in wood, bearing shields with the arms of England and her standard-bearer ; and round the hall were 10 others, " large as life, standing, lying, and sittuig, Avith small banners of arms supported by their feet." Of aU this splendour the only traces remaining are the ivy-covered ruins, approached from the town through wide iron gates, opening on a straight causesvay laised above the meadows, and passing over the "little Eother," which flows along the entire W. front. The house was quatkangular. Over the archway of tlie principal front are tlie anus of Sir A. Browne. In the court beyond was a stately fountahi, which is now at Woolbeding. The " Buck Hall " was immediately opposite, and half-burnt portions of the stags that decorated it still lie hi the quadrangle. E. of the hall was the chapel, of which the window traceries are tolerably pre- served. Traces of the wall-paintings that decorated some of the principal ai^artments are still visible. Although the house at Cowdray will no longer show us " how our fore- fathers lived," we may get a very toler- able picture from the ' Book of Orders and Rules,' established by Anthony Lord Montague (the yoiuig child of Tilbmy) for the dhection of his household and family here, a.d. 1595. This very curious MS. was saved from the fire, and has been printed in the Sussex Archxol. Collect ions, vol. vii. Time, which has mouldered these ruins into beautj', has dealt still more gentlj' with the magnificent clicsnuts and limes of the " Close W;dks," the scene of Queen Eliza- beth's feastings on the occasion of her visit to Lord Montague of the "Armada" in 1591. Here it was that her Majesty, armed with a cross- bow, killed " three or four deer" as they were driven past her sylvan bower, whilst tlie Countess of Kil- dare, her attendant, very judiciously brought down only one. Tlie park, full of heights and hollows and thickly caii^eted with fern, deserves all possible exploration. In it, about 1 m. from the ruins, is Cowdray Lodge, the cottage of the Earl of Egmont. In the neighbourhood of Midhurst is Bunford House (R. Cobden, Esq.), on the estate which was purchased and presented to him by the sup- 352 Route 19.— Godahnijig to Chichester, Sect. II. porters of the Anti - Com Law Leagiie. From ]\Ii(lliiirst the scenery N. to- vrards Fa rnli u n<t,im., may most easily be visited. It is wild and varied; aud from Henley Hill (about half way) the view is very fine. The chm-cli at Farnliurst is small and E. E. In an oak wood, rt. of tlie road, are the remains, now a mere heap, of Verdleij Castle, " known only to those that Imnt the marten cat," says Camden, and still remote and solitary. It was a hunting- tower attached to the Lord.shiii of Midhurst ; but all arclii- tectiu-al features were destroyed some years since, when the walls were used for road-making. About 2 m. N.W. from Faruhurst are the ruius of Shidhrede Fn'orij, in a small valley, surrounded with wood, and not to be got at without some difBcuIty. It was founded by Sir Ealph de Arderue early in the 13th cent, for five Au- gustiuian canons, and was suppressed by the Bp. of Chichester, " not with- out an eye to his own advantage," ten years before the visitation of Cromwell's commissioners. The only portion of interest that remains is the Prior's chamber, a large room approached by a stone staircase. The walls are covered with nide paintings of more than one period. Among them is the Nativity, where the Virgin and Child are surrounded by different animals, wliose voices are made to express articulate sounds. A label proceeding from the moutli of a cock m the act of crowing, bears the words " Christus natus est." A duck demands "Quando quando?" and a raven makes answer " In hac nocte, in hac nocte. ' The cow bellows "Uiji'? ubi?'' and the lamb bleats " Bethlem, Bethlem." Other paiut- ing.s, showing the dress of Elizabetli's time, and the arms and motto of James I., must have been added after the dissolution. Along the course of the R other, "W. fronr Midhurst, are Woolhedhuj, where the stained glass in the chan- cel was removed from the Prioiy of Mottisfout in Hampshire, aud Trottoii, an ancient manor of the Camois family. The chiu-ch, dedicated to St. George of England, was rebuilt about 1400 by Thomas Lord Camois, as was the bridge over the Eother, close adjoining. In the chancel arc two very fine Brasses ; the first, of Marguerite de Camoys (d. 1310), and probably the earliest brass of a lady that exists in England ; the second is on tlie altar tomb of the founder and his wife, d. 1419, which stands in the centre of the chancel. The Elizabeth Lady Camoys, who is re- presented here by the side of her lord, is no other than the widow of Hotspur, the " gentle Kate" of Shakspeare, who has erred at all events in her name, however tiidy he may have depicted the shrewd- ness of her wit. It was no doubt Petworth which brought her into" the neighbourhood of Lord Camoys, whom she married after the death of Percy. In this parisli Otway the dramatist was born, Marcli 3, 1651, whilst Ills father was curate here. Collins thus alludes to him in his ' Ode to Pity : '— " But wherefore need I wander wide To old llissus' distant side, [leserttd stream and mute? "Wild Alun too has heard thy strains, And Echo, midst my native plains, Been soothed by Pity's lute." Dureford Abbey, in the parish of Eogafe, 2 m., a small house of Pre- monstratensian Canons, was founded by Henry Hoese (Hosatus — Hussey) aljout 1169. Some portions of the ancient buihling have been worked into the present dwelling-house. Near Haben bridge, on an eminence above the Arun, about .] m. from the village of Rogate, are vestiges of a tower within a foss : probabl}' erected by the Camois, ancient lords of the manor. The Chichester road, S. of Mid- hurst, has some picturesque views ; aud about 2 m. begins to ascend the Sussex. Route 19. — Godahning to Chichester. 353 line of the South Downs, here of no great heiglit. There are some fine points however among the sjjurs tliat strike out northward from the line running E. into Hampshire : and the tourist may if he pleases walk or ride from Corhhui, where the road crosses the hills, along the westward heights by Gratfham and Lavhigton toward Bignor and Arundel. This line will give him some of the very finest scenery in the South Downs : Init he should be told that he will findbut indifferent accommodation at the primitive village inns. The view (northward) above the village of Graffhaiii (al)out 2 m. from Cocking) is very grand and panoramic. " The dark hanging woods of Lavington clothe the steep hills on one side, while on the other their natural forms are varied by smaller clumps of beech and junii^er. Below, is the long and picturesque valley of the EotTier, extending from the borders of Plamp- shire as far as tlie eye can reach, and varied with wild heathery commons, evergreen woods, brown copses, and ctiltivated- fields. Immediately op- posite is the elevated ridge of the lower green sandstone, the S. boun- dary of the Weald of W. Sussex, and far in the distance the blue outline of the SuiTcy Downs. (A. E. Knox, Game Birds and Wild Fowl.) The explosion of the powder-mills at Hounslow, March 11, 1850 (50 m. in a direct line), made all the pheasants in the Lavington woods crow at once. At Cocking the archajologist maj' search for the remains of a cell, be- longing first to the Abbey of Seez, and afterwards to the College of Arimdel. On the edge of Heyshott Do\Mis (E.) are the traces of a forti- fitd camp. Extensive woods stretch away on either side of the road l^eyond Cock- ing. The church of Singleton, 2 m., is Perp., and uninteresting. At West Dean, 1 m., in the midst of the low roimdtd hills and coppicts which belong to this part of Sussex, is West Dean I'arh (Rev. L. V. Harcourfi, built by Lord Selsey about 1804, in a Strawberry-Hill Gothic. The )iark is exten.sive and well wooded. West Dean church has someE.E. portions, and contains a good monument (about l(j](j) to three of the Lewknor family, former lords of the manor. Either here or at East Dean, 1 m. 1., very picturesquely placed at the end of a narrow chalk valley, was the royal villa of Dene, at which Asser for the first time saw King Alfred ("usque ad regionem dexteralium Saxonimi, qua3 Saxoniee Sutliscaxmn appellatur, j^erveni ; iljique ilium in villa regia, qufe dicitur Dene, primitus vidi. ' ' — Vita A If. ) . There are now no traces of this ancient hunting seat. Iioman sepulchral lu'ns have been found near Chilgrove in West Dean. In Midluvant Church, 1 m., is a marble effigy of " Dame Mary May,"' d. 1G81. It was erected during her lifetime. Goodwood is now the great feature (1.) ; and passing the ancient Broil entrenchments and the barracks, Chichester is entered by the old North Street of Eoman Regnum. (For Chichester and excursions in its neighljourliood see Rte, IG.J Indk 355 I N D E X. ABUEY. A. Abbev Wiiod, station on the Chatham rail- way, 25. Abbej'6 in Kent : Lesnos, 25 ; Faversham, 66 ; Boxley, 85; Mailing, 88; St. Radigiind's, 151. in Sussex : Bayham, 228 ; Battle, 254. Abbot's Cliff tunnel, near Dover, 14;. Academy, military, at Woolwich, 24. Acrise Court in Kent, 142. Adams, William, the discoverer of Japan, his birthplace, 48. Ad iJecimum, site of the, 323. Addington, church, inscription in, its situa- ation, 89 ; park, Oruidical remains, 89 ; parish, " Xailbourne " in, 93. Adishara, manor granted to Christ Church, Canterbury, 221. Adur, the, at Cuckfield, 256 ; an embouchure of, 292 ; suspension bridge over, 293 ; source of, }}} ; estuary, 342. Ague, the region of, 65. Airey, Professor, localities fixed by, for Cai' sars conquest, 234. Alard, the, chantry in St. Nicholas's church, Winchelsea, 247. " Alba Via," tho, 217. Alban's, St., Court, portrait by Jaiisenin, 223. Albourne Manor, an estate of the Ju.\on family, 264. Alciston Manor in Sussex, 282. Aldington church, given to Erasmus, 133 ; the nun of Kent, i J3-134. Aldrington church, 292. Alfold, St. Wilfred's church, 343. Alfred, lands alienated in his reign, ;. Alfriston, ancient hostelry at, 281, 282. Alkbam, church, witli Early English chancel, at, 142. AUington Castle, view of, from Longscle, 78; history of, 83, 84; described, 85. Alphege, St., shrine of, Canterbury, 166. Alston, Mr., his oyster-beds at Milton, 6j ; his " sea-farm" at Whitstable, annual pro- duce of his Sheerness fishery, 187. ' Amadis de Gaul,' reference to Duke Hum- phrey's tower in, 10. Amber, found on tlie coast of Kent, 211. Amberley, ruined castle, church, picturesque old village, 336. ARMOUR. Amberstone, the, near Hellingly Park, 285. Anderida, supposed site of the ancient, 130; true site of the ancient, 288. Andred's A\''ood, the extreme easterly point of, 250 ; various etymologies of, 255; scen- ery of, 256. Angmering, East and We.st, 297 ; park, mi- gration of herons from, 298. Anne Boleyn, her education at Ilever, u6. Amie of Cleves, scene of her marriage, 5 ; tirst meeting with Henry, 20; priory granted to, 27 ; first seen by Henry, 35; grant of Hever to, 116; place of her first landing in England, 210; her houae in I^ewes, 271. Anne of Denmark, her "House" at Creen- wich, 6. Anne, yiieen, benefactions of, to Greenwich Hosjiital, 7; memorials of, at Tunbridge Wells, 227. Anselui, Archbishop, building of, at Canter- bury, 161. Anson, model of his ship, 9. Anticjuities of Kent, x ; of Sussex, xxii. Antonine's Itinerary, the Durolevum of, 70; the Vagniacaj of, 78 ; Keculver mentioned in, 190 ; the Ad Liecnnuiu of, 323. Ajiplidiire, sailing of Panes up the Piother to, 250; routes from, 251. Appledrani. chtuch, near Chichester, 315. Aquila, Gilbert de, priory founded by, 28;. Architecture, ecclesiastical, military, and do- mestic : of Kent, xii ; of Sussex, xxii. Architecture, example of Norman, 28-29 > ancient British, sepulchral, 77 ; domestic, of Edward IV. 's time, 96-97 ; exam])le of \arioiis periods from Edward H. to James I., 112; liall of the 14th century, ji8; for- titiid manor of the 13th, 134; Kentish tracery, 157 ; Early English transepts and choir, 19; ; example of Roman, 206-207 » severe, of Premonstratensian Canons, 228 ; example of l>ec. and Perp., 231 ; specimen of early Dec, 246 ; peculiarities of Anglo- Saxon, 254; of brick, in Su.ssex, 257; of tlie De Warrenes, 267; pier arches in Stev'ning church, 342. Arden, Thomas, bought Faversham Abbey, 66 ; nuirder of, 68-6g. Ardingly, church with wooden porch, 255. Armour, Bayard's suit at Woolwich, 24 ; ancient manufacture of, 26; collection of, at Parham, 337-338. 356 INDEX. ARSENAL. Arsenal, the royal, at Woolwich, 12, 22-2}; at Chalham, 46. Arun, the, luivigahle, nuiUet of, tgS ; canoes found al Nurili Stuke un, 304; main source of, 5J! ; jiniction of, willi the Itolhi-r, J35 ; running through Amberley, Jj6; ruuicil tower aljove, 352. Arundel, situation of the town, 298 ; origin of its name, history of the cjstlc, 299 ; great hall, library, pictures, joo ; the keep, J00-J02 ; parish church of St. Nicholas, ;o2- iO} ; ruins of the Malsou Uieu, the dairy, 30 J ; the park, ;04. Ash church, at Richborongh, the spire a landmark, altar-tombs in, 208. Ashbourne, the, in old times forming a har- bour, 291. Ashburiiham Place, its collection of MSS. an<l printed books ; church, repuUitiou of its iron, 3JT. Ashdown forest, furnaces of, J27 ; scenery, J28. Ashford railway " repah-ing " station, popu- lation of, church, 132; birthplace of Cade, Ashgrove, in Kent, no. Asten, the, coloured waters of, 235. Augustine, his share in the foundation of Rochester cathedral, 36 ; baptisms in the Swale by, 58 ; place of his landing in Eng- land, 7 J ; convent in Canterbury established by, 160; monastery founded by, 18T-182; burial-place of, 181 ; efficacious blessing of, 194 ; his first meeting with Ethelbert, 195 ; landing of, in Engl.and, 197 ; chapel in Richborough dedicated to, 208. Augustinian canons, Lesnes Abbey founded for, 25 ; priory of nuns at Dartford, 27 ; priory founded by Robert de Crevecoeur for canons, .gj ; "first English house of Black canons, i36 ; site of a house near Hastings, 240: remains of a priory founded by .John Mansell, 25;; house founded by Gilbert de Aquila, 285; priory at War- bleton, ;;o; priory founded by Sir Wil- liam Dawtrey, J35 ; priory suppressed by the Bishop of Chichester, 352. Augustine's, St., villa at Ramsgate, 197. Aylesl'ord, sepulchral caves at, 26. . , Sax(.)n traditions of, 75 ; church, friary, manufactures of, 76. B. Badmonden, cell attached to a foreign priory at, 127. Baillie's Court, near laltle Hampton, be- longing to the abbey of Seez, 298. Baillie, Dr., his recommendation of Hastings, 2!9. Balcomhe, on the Weald of Sussex, 255. Balsdean, desecrated chapel, 264. Balustrade of St. Paul's, furnace where it was cast, 228. BENEDICTINKS. Bapchild, Saxon council held at, architecture, history of the church, 65. Coiu'l, 66. Barfreston, excursion from Canterbury to, 187; fine churcli of, 225. Barham Court, tradition of, 126. church, manor belonged to Fitzurse, 220 ; Downs, historical memorials of, 221. Bathing machines, invention of, 199. Bathurst, Launcelot, house built by, 30. Battle Abbey, scene of the battle, 234 ; story, memorable localities, 234, 2J5 ; foundation of the abbey, 236; description of, 237; church, privileges of the parish, powder- mills, 2?8. Battle Hall, near Leeds Castle, 93. Baxter, origin ascribed to the Isle of Dogs hy, ,-• Bavard, his suit of armour at Woolwich, 24. Ba'yford Castle, built by Alfred, 64. Bayliam Abbey, ruins described, history of, 223. Beachborough House, near Folkestone, 139 ; summer-house at, 141. Beachy Head, height of. Parson Darby's Hole, wrecks, sea-fowl, 283 ; sea-fight otf, 284. Beale, Benjamin, unlucky invention of, 199. Bear's Oak, in I'enshurst Park, rei'erred to, by Waller, 121. Beckenham, village of, 97 ; celebrities of, church and churchyard, Place, 98. Becket, Thomas a, abbey dedicated to, 25; relic of, at Harbledown, 75; miraculous ■well of, 114; his claim on Saltwood, 136; plotting of his murder, 137; story of his murder, 167, 168 ; translation of his body from the crypt, 171; trial of, in Henry VIII. 's reign, 172; representations of his miracles, 172, 173; reception of, in Sand- wich, 20! ; place of his concealment, 209; church dedicated to, 316. Beddingham, in Susse.N, 273. Bede, name given by, to Rochester, ji ; Tha- net, in the days of, 194. Bedgebury Park, near Goudhurst, 128. Beechmont Park, in Kent, no. Bekesbourne, ruins of an archiepiscopal pa- lace, 218; skirmish of Caesar's army, 219. Belerica, the ancient, 1 34. Bell Tout Lighthouse under Beachy Head, 283. Bellot, Lieut., memorial of, at Greenwich, 6. Belmont Castle, near Gray's Thurrock, 14. Benedictines, nunnery of, founded by Ste- pheiij near Iligham, 32; colony established by Gundulf, 36; priory at Davington, 70; nunnery founded by Gundulf, its tribute to Rochester, 88 ; priory at I'olkestone. 140; priory at Dover transferred to, 148 ; con- vent in Canterbury, 160, 178, 179; college of St. Augustine in Canterbury, its history, 181, 182; abbey at West Langdon, 2i; ; foundation, consecration of St. Martin's Abbey at Battle, 236; priory at Wilming- INDEX. 357 BENSTED. toll, 282; nunnery at Leominster, 504; Bnxgrove Priory, J17 ; priory of St. Mary Magdalene, j 14 ; grant of Kdward the Con- fessor to the Abbey of Fe'camp, 541 ; nun- nery f(]undcd liy John de Boliun, 550. Bensted, W. H., chalk-quarries belonging to, 75. Berens, H., retreat founded by, 27. Bernardi, -work of, in Chichester cathedral, ;o8 ; at Boxgrove, ji8. Bersted, cliurcls-tower witli figiu'es at, 91. Bether^den, marble- quarries, bad roads, chureli, 1J2. , arcade built of its marble, l}$. Betshanger church, near Deal, 214. Bexhill, church, submarine forest, 292. Bexley Heath, mode of transit from Abbey Wood to, 26. Bexley manor, destination of its rental, church, architecture of, 26. Bicknor church, in Kent ; Place, 94. Biddendsn, Easter Sunday observance in, 129. Bifrons House, inscription on, 218. Bignor, various routes to, 522 ; 'Situation of, i2! ; I'oman villa and pavements, J24; other relics, park, 325 ; hill, scenery of, J 26. BiUiugsburst, etymology of, church, 3^4. Bilsington, ruined priory at, 255. Blrchington Church, " wax-house " in the churchyard, 200. Birling Place, a residence of the Nevilles, history of the manor, 90 Birling Gap, near Beachy Head, 284. Biscuit, mode of baking, at Deptford, 4. Bishojisbourne, Hooker's living, church re- stored 15 years since, 219. Bishopstone, interesting church at, 280. Black Cap, the top of Mount Harry, 274. Blackheath, villas on, historical recollections, 20; grammar-school, 21. Blackwall, means of transit from London to, I ; described, 11. Blacksole Field, battle fnTight at, iii. Blean, the, tract of forest-land in Kent, 71. Bloomfi>Id, Hobert, favourite walk of, 25. Blue Wall, the, traversing Romney Marsh, 251. Boar Place, in Chiddingstone parish, 117. Board Hill, in Sussex, 256. liciarzell, house in 'ricehurst, ijo. Bi ckingfold, anciently a forest, 124. Bodiani Castle, excursion to, 2;4 ; date of its building, history, luins, church, 244. Bogiior, excursions from, 504; rocks, jo;. Bobuns, the, ruins of their mansion, J51. Bolebrook, a house of the Sackvilles, ruins of, }i8. Boley Hill, court-leet held on, 45. Bolney, picturesque church at, 25A ; com- mon, views from, productions of, 257. Bolton, Lavinia liuchess of, buried at Green- ■wich, 10. Borden church, 6;. Boreshill, Chiddingstone, 117. BRASSES. Borough, in Sussex, Roman villa at, j;;. " Borsholder, a dumb," preserved in \Vater- higbury chiircii, 125. Borstalls, in Sussex, 27;. Boshani, church, its claims to be Anglo- Saxon investigated, 31J; fticul's and Warlewast's foundation at, 514 ; repre- sented in the Buyeux tapestry ; legend of the bells, ih. Bossenden Wood, death of Courtenay in, 72. Boughtoii Aluph, large church at, 15J. Boughlon-under- Blean, Canterbury pilgrims at, 71. Boughton Hill, view from, 71. Boughton Malherbe, in Kent, 9; ; the church of, I jr. Boughton Jlonchelsea, remains of a hyana discovered near, 95. Boughton Place, a residence of the Wottons, Bourne Park, in Kent, 2 J 9. Bow Creek, junction of the Lea with the Thames at, it. Bow Hill, spur of the chalk-range overlook- ing Kingly Bottom, J2i. Boxgrove, dissolution of the priory at, J17 ; chiuxh, beautiful example of E. E. archi- tecture, !t8. Boxley Abbey, history of, 85 ; " the Rood of Grace," village, origin of the name, 86. Boyle, Roger, monimient in Preston church to, 70. Brackiesham Bay, fossil shells found in, 516- Bradbourne Park, 87 ; church, churchyard with enormous yew-tree, 154. Bradsole abliey, origin of the name, 151. Brauibletj'e House, near East Griustead, J27. Brand)er, manor forming part of the honour of, 265 ; Saxon palace at, 341 ; fortress on the site of a castellum, view from, St. Ni- cholas' church, 342. Braose family, the, hunting-lodge of, 265 ; churches erected by, 29? ; building of, at Horsham, 332; old residence of, 333; their possession of St. Leonard's forest, ib. ; old castle of, 334; a manor of, 340; brass of Sir .John in Wiston church, 341; strong- hold at the mouth of the Adur, 342. Brasses: in Eriih church, 13; in Stone church, 14; Northfleet, 15; East ^Vick!!am, 26; St. Mary Cray, 27 ; Dartford, ih. ; Horton Kirkl)y, 29; Farningham, ?o ; Cliffe, 32; Cowling, ; ; ; Strood, il^. ; Chatham, 47 ; St. James, in the Isle of Grain, 49 ; Cobham. 5?, ■14; Minster, 60; Rainhani, 61 ; New- ington, 63 ; Alilton, 64; Bredgar, ih.; Fa- versham, 67; Sheldwich, 71; Graveney, ib.; Lucldesdon, 74; Hailing, ib. ; -Ayles- ford, 76; Maidstone, 80; East Mailing, 87; West Mailing, 88; Addington, 89; Bromley, 99 ; Hiiyes, 102 ; Chelsfield, 104 ; Chevening, 10;; Sevenoaks, ih. ; Seal, no; Ighlham, ih.; Wrotham, in; Sundridge, 112; Weslerham, 11?; Kemsing, 114; LuUingstone, 115 ; Hever, 116; Penshurst, 358 IN^DEX. BRASSES. 121 ; Horsmonden, 127; Cranbrook, Goud- hui'st, 128; East Sutton, I'luckley, iji ; Bethersden, Asbford, IJ2; Great Chart, Addington, ijj; Bradbourne, 134; Salt- wood, ij"; ; Folkestone, ijg; Newington, Acrise, 142; Charthani, 157; Monktou, 196 ; St. Nicholas at Wade, ib. ; St. Law- rence, 197 ; St. John's, Margate, 200 ; Birchington,*. ; Ash,2o3 ; Upper Hardres, 219; Barham, 220; Goodnestone, 222. Brasses found in Sussex : in Ticehurst churcli, 2jo; Etchingham, 2J2; Battle, 2;8; St. Clement's, Hastings, 240; Northiam, 24;; St. Nicliolas, Winchel.sea, 247 ; Rye, 249 ; New Romney, Lydd, 252 ; NVoodclnirch, 253; Ardingly, 25;; Slaugham, 256;AV^est Grinstead, 264 ; Cowfold, 265; St.Mlcliael in Lewes, 271 ; Fletchiiig, 277; Buxted, ib. ; Isfield, 278; Hurstmouceux, 288; Shoreham, 29?; l?roadwater, 294; East Grinstead, 326; AVarbleton, !?o; Hors- ham, 352; Rusper, 334; Billingsliurst, Pulboroiiglj, 355; Stupham, I'ft. ; Amber- ley, 536; Wiston, 341; Whitley, 34;; Woolbcding, 352. Brasted, in Kent, 112. Brede, the, junction of, with the Tillinghara and Bother, 248. church, French flamboyant -work in, 342 ; Place, built, the end of the 14th cen- tury, 242, 24 J. Bredgar, chantry at, 64. Brenchley loll, a landmark, in Kent, 127. Urenzet, St.Eanswilh's church, 251. Brickwall Park, birthplace of an archbishop, house, curiosities, relic of Queeu Elizabeth in, 243. Bridge, curious carvings in relief in the church, 217. > Brightling Down, views from, observatory on, J 30. Brighton, lodgings at, 259 ; origin and his- tory, 260 ; notabilities, 261, 262 ; return tour to London from, 264 ; coaches from, ib. Brishing, stream flowing umlerground from, 95. British antiquities in Kent, x ; embankments on the Thames, supposed to be, 12; s'^pul- chres, 17 ; traces of a battle with Hengist, 26; "via sacra," 61; the cromlech Kit's Coity House, the Countle^s Stones, 77; sepulchres, 78 ; cromlech, circles, seijul- chral chambers at Addington, 89, 90 ; pottery found in Camden Park, 100 ; the supposed site of Noviomagus, 102; sup- posed locality of a battle, 139 ; name of Thanet, 194. in Sussex, xxii ; earthworks at Kenard- ington, 255 ; circular camp, 258 ; oval camp on the South Downs, 262; l)ruidical remains on the South Downs, 263 ; canoes, 304. Broadhurst, Lpighton's residence at, 257. Broad.stairs, origin of the name, source of its prusperity, 199. Broadwater, fme church at, 294. CAMDt;N. Brockl3'n, 86. Bromley, walk from Beclionham to, situa- tion, history of the toAn, 98 ; archiepisco- pal palace, ib. : palace garden, church and churchyard, 99 ; college founded by Bishop ^Varner, ib. ; road to Sevenoaks from, 101. Rrimipton, its barracks, 47. Brook, Sussex signification of, 336. Brooke, Sir Wm., almshouse lounded by, 5-t- BruoklanJ, bell-tower at, built of timber, 251. liroome Park, in Kent, 220. Broomham Park, in Sussex, 242. Browne, Sir Anthony, his succession to Cow- dray, 251. Browne, Sir Anthony, grant of Battle Abbey to, 236 ; tomb of, 238. Brown, Capability, grounds laid out by. 26. Brown's Burgh, beacon on Brightling Down, 330. Broj'le, the, near Chichester, 313. Buckhurst, old residence of the Sackvilles, Park, 328.- Buckland, on the Dour, 224. Bucksteep, old mansion house in Warbleton, 330. Burgess Hill railway station near Brighton, 257- Burgh, Hubert de, scene of his meetmg with the malcontent barons, 13 ; his defence of Dover, 143-144 ; ])art taken by, in the translation of Becket's body, 191. Burhara, Knights Hospitallers' church, 75. Burpham, ossicula of starfish found at, 304. Burston, now a farm-nouse, view from, 124. Burwash church contains oldest specimen of Sussex founder's workmanship, 232. Bury Hill, barrows on, view from, 326. Buxted, church with shingled spire, 277 ; Place, 278. Byron, Lord, his description of the view of Loudon, 24 ; at Hastings, 240. c. Cabot, Sebastian, fleet of, at Gravesend, i ,. Caburn, Mount, position of, 27 ; ; camp on, 274- Cade Street, traditionary scene of Jack (%.de s murder, 329-330. Cade, his birthplace. 133. Ca'sar, Julius, probable landing-place of, 212 ; traces of entrenchments of, 214-215. Caistor, Roman pottery made at, 62. Cakeham, Bishop Sheiijorne's tower at, J17. Cale Hill, a seat of the Darells, 132. Camber castle, date of its dismantlement, retiring of the sea from, 248 Camden, quoted in reference to the 'Golden Hind,' 5 ; fixes the Counnenos of Ptolemy, 18 ; source of revenues apjiropriated by, to founding an Oxford professorship, 26 ; testi- mony of, to Cliatham dockyard, 4; ; charac- ter given to the people of Thanet bj', 195. IN^EX. 359 CAMER. Cimer, in the parisn of Meophani, j2. imomile on Boliiey Common, 257. Canals, history of the Thames and Med way, 16; the Militaiy, from Hythe to Apple- dore, i;6. Canary grass, its introduction into England, 189. Cannon, iron, place of the first casting of, 278. Canterbury, sack of, by the Danes, 10; well, used by pilgrims to, 54 ; means of transit to, 61 ; archbishop's vineyard, 66 ; view of the cathedral, 72 ; view of, from Harble- down, 7? ; palaces belonging to the see, 106; earliest founder of the cathedral, 156; entrance to, gates of, 158 ; description, his- tc/ry of, 159; the cathedral described, 159- 160; its history, 160-161; the present cathedral, 162; nave, 162-164; choir, 164- i7o;reredos, 165; organ, 166; scene of Becket's murder, 167 ; St. Andrews tower, 169; 'I'rinity chapel, 170; translation of Bfckft's body, 171 ; royal pilgrims, 171- 172 ; Trinity chapel windows, 172 ; monu- ments and tombs, I7;-177; the corona, 174; Anselm's tower, 175; the crypt, 176- 178; exterior of the cathedral towers, 178; IViors court, Chapter library, 179; Dean- ery, grammar school, 180 ; the archbishop's palace, its history, i8i ; history of St. Augustine's college, 181-18; ; the present college described, i8j; St. iVIartin's, the mother church of England, 18J-185; Dane John, castle, |8?; churches and religious houses, 186; museum, guildliall, t86, 187. Canterbury, archbishops ol, their hereditary stewards, I2j; casile restored to, by King John, I {7 ; history of their palace at Charing, 155; palace in Canterbury, 181; palace of Ford, 189; first Saxon, 191; manor belonc,ing to, 216 ; Bekesbourne palace, 218; "peculiar," and favourite re- sidence of, 250; chain of " peculiars " of, 27;; Tarring a " peculiar," 296. Cantium of Ptolemy, the, 202. Canvey Island, the Counnenos of Ptolemy, 18. Carmelites, first house of, established hi Eng- land, first general chapter of ihe order, 76 ; friary claiming to be their first establish- ment, i;o; monastery of, fuunded by l>ord Clinton, 204; supposed cliapel of, in Rye, 249- Carp, introduction of, into England, 258. Carstone, of the Weald, ;4;. Carter, Elizabeth, birthplace of, 210 ; at Tun- bridge Wells, 227. Carthusians, Greenwich transferred from the Ghent Abbe_v to Eiiglisli, ;. Castelluni, Cantuariorum, name given to Ro- chester, 51. Castle Goring in Clapham woods, 297. Castle Hill, C»sar's camp on, 141. Castle Rough, on Kemsley Down, 64. " Castle Toll " in Penenden, i ;o. Castrum, Roman, near Lynme, 1J7. CUELSTOX. Cathedfals in Kent: Rochester, j6 ; Canter- bury, 180. in Sussex : Chichester, 30$. Catherine of Arragon, her name associated with Greenwich, 5. Cattle, mode of slaughtering for victualling offices, 4. Caxton, ^Villiam, birthplace of, 129. Cedars of Goodwood, }2o. Chalk pits, at Greenhithe, 14 ; at Northfleet, 15 ;excava!ionsjn,at Crayford, 26 ;at Dart- iord, 28 ; caverns at Favershiuu, 69, 70 ; quarry at Burhani, 75 ; pits, ju-obably tombs, near Kit's Coity House, 77, 78; pit at Camden Place, excavated, skeletons found, 100; layers of starfish bones found in, 504. Chalk church, j2 ; visit to, 49 ; curious porch of, 55. Challock church, in Kent. 154. Chalybeate spriim at Folkestime, 141. Chanctonbury Ring, seen Irom the Downs, J2J ; extent of, jj5 ; a landmark on the South Downs, 240; entrenchment, ib. Charing, ruins of the archbishop's palace, church, 15";. Charles I., bis reception at Cubham, 49; fort built by, 57; at Dover, 144; (hurch dedi- cated to, 229 ; relics of, at Ashbunihani, J!t. Charles II., his additions to GreenAvich, 6; his march from Dover after the Restora- tion, 21; received at Rochester, 35; his grant of Ellhani, 97; house near 'I'un- bridge fref]Uented by his courtiers, 123; his reception at Dover, 144; bust at Chartham, i;8; landing-place in 1GS3, 201 ; Rye visited by, 248 ; night spent by, at Brighton, 260; his embarkation from Shoreham, 29?. "Charleses, the seven," near Eastbourne, 284. Charlton, the hills of, 11 ; its fair, manor- house of, 21. Charlton, near Dover, 224. Charinan 1 Iran, near Worthing, 294. Chart, "the diimbborshokUr " of, 125; the vineyard of, 151. Chart Ldge, in Kent, 110. Chart's Edge, quarries at, iij. Charters, preserved in Rochester, 40; of 94.5, granting West jMalling, 89 ; nunnery men- tioii'd in Wihtred's, 142; in the Chapter library in 'L'anierbury, 179; granting Re- culver, T90; Watling Street mentioned Ml a, 217 ; virtual confirmation of the Great, 276. Charth.ani, beautiful church of, nave and transept described, 157; village, fossil bones discovered at, 1 ;8. Chatham, derivation of the name, dockyard, 45; De Rnyter's attack on, 46; barracks, church. Lines, 47; reviews at, 48; hiil, view from, 61. » Chelslon, near Boughton Malherbe, iji. 360 INDEX. CHENEY. Cheney family, tbeir possession of Minster, 59- , Sir Thomas, mansion Imilt by, 60 ; grant of Faversliani Ablioy to, 66. Cheriton, sea view from, 141. Cheny, cultivation of the, in Kent, xiii. Cherry Garden Valley, near Folkestone, 141 ; Cherry Garden farm, 22. Cherry-frees of Bolney, 257. Chesterfield, Lord, his villa on Blackheath, 20. Chesworth, once a residence of the Braoses, iU. I Chevening, two manors of, history of the Earl of Stanhope's, the house described, portraits, 104; church, monuments of the Lennard and Stanhope families, 105. Cheynel, Dr., grave of, 26?. Cheyney Rock, oyster fisheries, 60. Chichester, Roman origin, situation of, J05 ; historical notice, 505, jo6 ; the cathedral, Jo6-;ii ;1 the campanile, market cross, St. Marj-'s hospital, jii ; church of St. Olave, guildhall, Canongate, museum, 312; houses attriViuted to Wren, city walls, jij ; excursions from, J17. Chiddingfold, the landscape at, old glass- works, J4J. Chiddingly, church with spire. Place, a'jg. Chiddingstone, old name of, origin of the present, church with monuments, 117. Cliidham, near Chichester, ;i5. Chilgrove, sepulchral ruins found near, ;;5. Chilham, scenery of, i;j ; battle supposed to have been fought at, 155; history of the castle, T56; the church and park, 156, 157. Chillenden, prior named from, small church, late Norman, 222. Chillhigworth, grave of, ?ii. Chislehurst, walk from Bromley to, 98. Chilstone Park, its parish, 95. Chistlet, church at, Karly English, 192. Christ Chiu'ch, Canterlmry, Davent church given to, 940, 29 ; grant of .Elfege to, 50 ; one of its earliest possessions, J2; Preston church, once belonging to, 70 ; Westwell manor, belonging to, 15;; Godmersham, 157; foundation of, 160; gift of Reculver to, 190; an ancient manor of, 192; grant of Edgifa to, ig6 ; church built by, ib.; gift of Canute, to, 202; Easlry church be- longing to, 209; grant of Eadbald to, 221. Church-field, traces of a Roman villa at, 75. Churchill, burial-place of, 147. Cinque Ports, causes of their destruction, 57 ; Tenterden united to, i!o; Hythe, ij;; place where courts were earliest, held, ijS ; Folkestone a limb of, ijg; Dover, 149; chief pilot station of, 150 ; historj' of, 151, 152; Fordwich a member of, 191; the most ancient, 202 ; residence of the war- dens, 211 ; Littlebnurne a member of, 219 ; Hastings, 259 ; Winchelsea, 24, ; fine tomb of an admiral, 247 ; the most central, 251 ; place of meeting iif the geuerttl COMBE. courts, 252; the earliest, a member of Ronmey, 252 ; Seaford a member, 280 ; Pevensey, 292. Cissbury, encampment, Roman remains at, 295 ; view fronj, 296. Cistercians, colony, brought from Clairvaux by William of Ypres, 85, 86; grant of Edward III. to the abbey of St. Mary Graces, 90 ; remains of an abbey at Robertsbridge, 2JJ ; sites preferred by, ib. Clapham Connnon, in Sussex, woods, church, 297. Clapper-napper's Hole, ;i. Clare Hall, 88. Clayton Priory, near Brighton, 257 ; church near Brighton, 259. Cliff End, in Sussex, scenery of, 242. Cliffe, church councils anciently held at, church of, described, ;2, ;j. Climping, interesting church at, 304. Clinkers, stone used in ro;;d-making, 34;. Clinton, I^ord, monastery founded by, 204. Cloveshoo, places supposed to be, ;2. Cluniacs, established in Faversham Abbey, 66 ; priory of, louiidcd by Robert de Ver, Ij8; priory founded by William de War- rene, 268 ; history of tlie first established in England, 268, 269. Cobhain Hall, history of, 49 ; description of, 50 ; picture gallery, 50-53 ; park, church, colleges, 5?, 54. , Sir John, architectural works of, 53. Cobhams, the castle of the, 33. Cocking, scenery of the South Downs, cell belonging to Seez Abbey, 25;. Cockleshell Bank, in Svvanscombe Wood, 31. Cogidubims, the city of, 305. Coins : of Antoninus Pius, found at Halstow, 62; British, near Kit's Coity House, 77; British silver, found in digging foundations, 78 ; silver, Roman, found at Lymne, 137 ; silver, of Henry II., in Dover, 148 ; Roman, in 'I'hanet, 194 ; gold, of Justin, in Osengall hill, 198; of Maximus, and of Carausiu.s, found at Richborough, 206 ; great number of, in Richborough, 208; Roman, found at Sedlescomb, 244 ; Roman, from a British camp, 262; Roman, found in Lewes, Saxon mints, 267 ; Anglo-Saxon sceattas, at Mil- ton street, 282; of the Constantines at Pevensey, 290 ; Reman, found at Cissbury, 29;; Roman, at Chichester, 305; Roman, near I'ulboroiigh, j}^ ; Roman atChancton- bnry, 340. Colbrand's Farm, oak-trees on, 279. Coldred, church standing within an entrench- ment, 22; ; bell-turrets of, 224. Coldium Farm, cromlech near, 89. Colfe, Abraham, grammar school founded by, 21. Collier's Hill, a pond on the top, 134. ColliMgwiiod, in Snsse.N, 2;;. Cnllins, birthplace of, 307. Combe Lodge, an old manor-house in Kent, INDEX. 361 COOK. Cuok's Bridge, railway station between Hay- ward's Heath and Lewes, 266. CiK'lhurst, an Elizabethan house, }}} ; ham- mer ponds near, JJ4. Cuonibe, etymology of, 264. Coonibe House, in Sussex, 257. Coombe Place, near Lewes, 276. Cooper, Sidney, residence of 72. Copperas stones found in Sheppey, 58. Copt Point, near Folkestone, geological structure, 141. Copwood, in Sussex, 278. Cosenton, mineral springs at, 76. " Coterels " on Sheppey, 58. Cottington, near Deal, 214. Counnenos of Ptolemj', at Canvey, 18. Court of Street, built on a Roman road, IJ4. Courtenay, Sir William, fanaticism of, 72. Cowdray, owners of, fire at, ruins, J51. Cowfold church, near West Grinstead, 265. Cowling, castle, its history, the church, }}. Coxheath, camp on, 95. Cranbrook, chiet village of the Wetild, its colony of Flemings, manufactures, 127 ; large church. Perpendicular, curious cus- tom, 128. Cranmer, manors resigned to the crown by, 106, III, 114; castle given to the crown in exchange, 1J7 ; palace resigned by, 15; ; place where he reviewed the " Articles of Keligion," 189; hiitials of, on the wall of a gatehouse, 218; papers hidden by, ib. ; Mayfield given in exchange, 2}o. C'ralle, old mansion-house, })o. Crawley, in Sussex, JJ2. Ciay, the, joins the Harent, 14; mills on, its source, churches on, 26. Crayford, the village of, 14 ; village and church, 26. Crevecoeur, Robert de, jiriory founded by, for Augustinian canons, 9J. Criol family, the, mansion of, 214; manor once belonging to, 215. Crispe, M., introduced madder-growing into Kent, 69. Crispin, St., grave of, in Sussex, 252. Crockham Hill, view from, over three counties, 113. Crog Dick, in Sheppej', 60. Cromlechs, the largest in the east of Eng- land, 77 ; found near Addington, 89. Cromwell, Oliver, liis grant to Bradshaw, 124; his possession of St. Pancras Priory in Lewes, 269. Cross-in-hand, view from, over Kent and Sussex, 529. Crouched Friars, first establishment of, in England, 128. Cmwborough, highest point of the South Downs, beacon station, J29. Crowhurst, in Sussex, church with old stained glass, yew-tree, manor-house of the Pel- hams, 241, 242. Crow Stone, marking the Lord Mayor's juris- diction on the Thames, 1 8. DENNE. Cuckfield, monuments by Flaxman and Westmacott in the church, 256. Place, the original of Alnsworth's Rook- wood, ib. Cuckmere, the, ruins of a priory on, 285. Cuckold s Point, tradition regarding, j. Culpepers, the, transfer of Li'cds Castle to, 92; residence of, in Hollingbounie, 9J ; date of their possession of Sore, in; seat of, near Tunbridge, 228 ; residences in Robertsbriilge, 254; of Wakelinrst, 255., " Cunobcline's Gold Mines" at Little Thiir- rock, 14. Cuxton, range of chalk hills from, 74. Dale Park, on the edge of the South Downs, J 26. Dallington, view from the church tower, J 50. Dalton, Mr., provides tickets for the Erith picture gallery, 13. "Danes' Ptoles," at Little Tliurrock, 14; at Tilbury, their probable origin, 17. "Danes' Banks," on Chartham ])ovvns, 158. Danes, relics of, in Ivent, at Little Thur- rock, 14; near East Tilbvny, 17; tradi- tionai-y camp of, jo; graves in Sheppey, 58; fortress on Kemsley Down, 64; tradi- tionary cemeteries of, i ,'5 ; sack of Canter- bury by, 161 ; ancient passage of ships by the Wantsome, 194; date of their settle- ment at Appledore, 250 ; battle fought bj', in Kingly Bottom, ,321. Danny Park, on Hufttpierpoint manor, 259. I)anson Hill, 26. Darell, Sir John, towers built by, IJ2. Dareut, the, joins the Thames, 14 ; origin of the name, 27 ; mills on, 28 ; stronghold overhanging, jo ; at Ciievening, 105 ; source of, length of its course, iij. Dartford, situation of, priory, chantry, church, 27 ; mills, historical recollections, 28 ; archi- tecture of the church, history of, 28, 29. Creek, salmon fishery of, 14. Heath, view from, 28. Darrells, house of the, built by Inigo Jones, 229. Daundelyon, old manor-bouse, built of flint and brick, 200. Davington, priory and church, 70. I )awtrey. Sir William, priory founded by, jjj. Deal, for the most part modern, 209 ; castle and naval yard, 210 ; the country landward of, described, 21 j. Dean, etymology of, 264. De Foe, mention of the Thames in his His- tory of the Plague, _} ; chapel where he preached, 186. Dene, meeting of Alfred and Asser at, JSi- Denna Hill, traces of entrenchments on, 222. Denne Park, landmarks in, btech avenue, Hi- . ]62 INDEX'. DENS. Pens, Saxon courts of, 1 29. Deptforii, transit from London to, i ; origin of the name. 4 ; liistory of, 4, 5. De Ruyter, bis attack on ships in the Thames, 46. Derwentwater, appropriation of the forfeited lands of the Earls of, 7. Detling church, fine leclern in, 86. Devil's l)yke near Brighton, legend of, 262. Dibdin, song of, qtioted, 18. Dickens', Charles, rtcoUections of Rochester, Diciil, the monastery of, 314. Dimchnrch Wall, protecting Romney Marsh, 251 ; Roman pottery discovered at, relics of many ages, 25J. Ditchling' Beacon, tine views from, old en- trenchment, church, 258. Ditton, church. 87. Dixler, old timbered house, 24?. Docks, on the Thames, ;; at Blackwall, 11 ; at Nurthfleet, 15; Woolwich, 22; Chat- ham, 45 ; Sheerness, i;8. Dockyard, Woolwich, date of, described, II, 12; late additions to, 22; Chaiham, 45; Sheerness, 59 ; timber from the Wealds of Kent and Sussex fur the Chaiham, 79. Pod, Ralph, his driftway under the Thames, 16. Poddington church, 66. Pogs, the Isle of, various derivations of the name, 5. Dominicans, first h(juse possessed by, in Eng- land, 186. Pour, the source of, 224. Dover, situation of, origin of the name, 14? ; history of, 143, 144 ; cjfstle, plioros, church, Constable's Tower, 145 ; Colton Tower, chapel, Arthur's Hall, 146; excavations in the cliff, churches in the town, 147 ; St. Martin's Priory, Maison Pieu, 148 ; Old Court Hall, heights, cliffs, 149; h.arliours, 149, 150; isthmus between England and France, i;o; excursions from, 151; walk to, from Peal, 214. Downs, the, harbour of refuge, origin of the name, 212. Drake, Sir Francis, history of his ship, 5 ; an astrolabe of, 9 ; the Chatliam Chest planned by, 47. Draper's Ho'spit.al near .Margate, 201. Dreadnought, the, its exploits, its present duty, ;. Pruidical remains, on the .South Downs, 263. Dubra>, the Rom.an, 143. Dunford House, presented to R. Cohden, ;;i. Dungeness, point, lighthou?e, rapid arcumu- lation of shingle, 252. Punsfold, in the Weald, 343. Ptmkirk, in the Blean, 72. Punstan. St., shrine of, 166; charter in his handwriting, 190; scene of his famous con- test, 230. Puppa, Brian, birthplace of, 20. Pureford Abbey, now a dwelling-house, 352. EASTBOURNE. Purer, Albert, impressions of his etchings at Bignor, 325. Purolevum, of Antonine's Itinerary, village on the site of 70. Purovermim, the Roman, derivation of. 1 59. Ptirrington chapel, ruins of, near Salvinglon, 297. E. Eanswith, St., miraculous spring, story of, 140. Eardley, Sir Culling, his collection of pic- tures, 13. Eartham, Hayley's house at, 322. Earthworks "in Kent : Panish on Kemsley Pown, 64 ; Roman, or Saxon, on the east side of Thnrnham Castle, 91 ; important fortification, site of a Brito-Ronian town, 102 ; entrenchment on Ightham Common, no; traces of, near Losenham, ijo; on conical hills near Folkestone, 141 ; names of, i;6; entrenchments near Peal, 213; traces of, n'-.arWalmer, 214, 215 ; entrench- ments at Petham, 220; entrenchment on Barh.am Downs, 221 ; entrenchments on lienne Hill, 222 ; oval entrenchment of Coldred, 223, 224. Earthworks in Sussex : circuLar entrenchment on Saxonbury Hill, 229; embankment on Hastings east cliff, 239, 240; British, near Kenardington, 253; square entrenchment, near Ditchling Beacon, 258; camp on AVal- st.aiibury Hill, 259; oval camp on the South Powns, 262 ; camps on the .South fiowns, 26; ; entrenchment on Mount Caburn, 273 ; camp, 274 ; encampment at Cissbury, 295 ; on Highdowu Hill, 297; the Broyle, 313 ; the Trundle, 321 ; Roman entrenchment, 33; ; camp at Chanctonbury Ring, 340. Easeborne, church and ruins of a Benedictine nunnery, 550. East Clifif near Ramsgate, cuttings in chalk at. 199. East Dean, site of a royal villa, 353. East Farleigh, picturesque bridge at, hops, 126. East Crinstead, branch railway from Throe Bridges to, 254 ; church, Sackville College, ?26, 327. East Hoathly church, Pelhani memorial in, 279- East Mailing church. 87. E.ast Ma^calls, an old house of the Newtons, ' 257. East Peckh.am, in Ivenl, 125. East Sutton Place, its fate in the civil wars, 131. East Sutton church, brass of Sir Edward Filnier in, 151. East Wickham. church, contains br.asses, 26. Eastbourne, Pavies Gilbert's residence. church, 282 ; old houses in, the Sea-houses, 28J. INDEX. 363 EASTCHURCH. Eastchurch in Sheppey, grant of, to Flemish Cistercians, 60. Eastry, a cliurch where Becket was con- cealed, 209. Kastwell church, burlal-pUice of the last Plantagenet, 15J; l>ark, views fnini, 154. Elibe's fleet, Augustine's landing at, 195, 198. Ecclesbounie, valley optiiing l(i the sea, 241. Edenbridge, village and cliurdi, 115. Edmund Ironside, his battle with Knut, 48. Edmund's Way, St., a name of Watling Street, 27. Edward I., imprisonment of, at Dover, 144 ; his siege of Old Winchelsea, founding of New, 245 ; narrow escape of, 248. Edward III., priory founded hy, 27 ; castle built by, in Sheppey, 6o; gift of Juliana de Leyborne to, 90; fiitertainment eiven by, at Elthani, 97; Flemings introduced into England by, 127 ; priory made "indi- gena" by, ijS; usual port of, 20;. Edward the Black Prime, monument of, in Canterbury cathedral, I7_}. Edward IV., building of, at Greenwich, 5 ; domestic architecture of his time, 95; window presented by, 168; surrender of Sandwich to, 204 ; Komney Marsh incor- porated by, 251. Edward VI., date, place of his death, 5. Egerton church, tower of, a boundary of the Weald, 152. Elham, church of Perpendicular, 142. Elizabeth, birthplace of, 5 ; at Greenwich, 6; sbip launched liy, 11 ; names Purfleet, 13; Gravesend incorporated by, i;; review of troops at Tilbury, 17; monument to her jeweller, 27; in Kocliester, 55; entertain- ment at Satis, 4;; at Cobluim, 49; at Wrstenhanger, ij5; her pocket-pLstol, 146; crypt in Canterbury given up to Flemings by, 177; her reception in Sandwich, 203; progress of, in the Weald of Ki-nt, 229; relic of, 24; ; dining imder an oak, 244 ; Eye visited by, 248 ; at Parham, 337 ; deer- shooting of, ;5i. Ellman, Mr., improvements of, in the South . Down breed of sheep, 274. Elmley, snuthemniost parish of Sheppey, 60. Eltham, situation of, 25; anciently a ix.yal residence, its banqueting-hall, 96; histori- cal personagis cimnected with, subterra- nean passages, 97 ; church and church- yard, 97 Eltruda, gift of, to Ghent, 5. Erasmus, at Harbl(do«n, 7;; an Engli.-h benefice of, 133 ; his recollections of Dover, I4J- Eridge, park and woods, rocks, 229. Erith, means of transit from London to, i ; the " Henrye Grace de Dieu " launched from, II ; described, 12, 13. Ernulf, Prior, his work in (Canterbury cathe- dral compared with that of William of ■Sens, 169. Etchingham, brass of, copied in Ticehurst, FITZAL.\NS. 230 ; church, with moated churchyard, 232 ; country south of, 23 j. Etlielbert, shrine of, 182; his baptism, 184; his retreat at Reculver, 190 ; first inter- view with Augustine, 195. Eustace, Abbot of Flai, preaching of, mira- culous well, 153. Evelyn, John, residence of, 4 ; foundation- stone laid by, 6 ; the Dutch in the Thames, 46 ; school of, 272. Ewell, spring at, 9;. Ewell or Temple Ewell, Templars' manor, historical memorials of 224. Exports, from Kent: flints to Staffordshire and China, 15; in old times chalk, 28; corn anciently from Thanet, 194. Eyiisford, paper-mills, church, castle, his- tory of, JO. Faber, AViUiam, the fijunder of Battle Abbey, 236. Fairlight Place, picturesque dell, view from the Down, 24T. Falconer, Matthias, factory at Minster esta- blisl]ed by, 58. Farleigh, hiip-gardens of, 126. Faridnirst, ruins near, church, 352. Farningham, coach from ])artford to, 28; situation of, its church, 30; coach from, to Dartford, 113, IT4. Fausset, Bryan, liis researches, 211. Faversham, history of its abbey, 66 ; church described, 67 ; legends of its patron saints, 63 ; historical personagesconnected with,69. Felpham, Hayley's villa at, ;oi. Feiichurch Street station, railway to Black- wall from. I. Fenwick, Sir John, house where he was taken, 251. Ferns, British, habitat of the ciueen of, 229. Fiddler's Keadi, origin of the name, 14. Field Place. .Shelley's residence at, 334. Figs, introduced into England, 296. Finch, JIargaret, the gipsy queen, 98. Finchcocks. a seat of the Bathursts, 128. Findon church and Place, 29C. Firle Beacon, near Lewes, 273 ; view from, 2-74 ; Place, 281. Fisheries, in Kent : salmon, in Dartford Creek, 14 ; oyster and shrimp, at Leigli, 1 8 ; repu- tation of Cray trout, 26; oj'ster, at the mouth of the Medway, 44; oyster, of the Cheyney Rock, 60; oyster, of Milton, 64; guild of oyster fishers at Faversham, 69 ; oyster, of Whitstable, antiquity of, 187, 188; trout, at Fordwich, 191 ; the Roman oysiers. 205; lobster, in St. Margaret's Bay, 216. , in Susse.x : indications of old Flemish, 263 ; mullet, in the Arun, 298 ; Amber- ley trout, 336. Fitzalans, the, of Arimdel, 298, 299; tombs of, 302. 564 INDEX. FITZtJRSE. Fitzurse, ReginaW, manor in Kent belonging to, 126; Barham manor, 220. Flaxman, monument by, in Lewisliam cburcli, 19; in Cuckfield church, -256; sarcophagus by, 265 ; monuments by, in Chichester, ^07 ; in ICartham church, 32J ; in Witliyam church, 328. Fleminfis, (manufactures of, in Kent, 127; established in Canterbury cathedral, 177 ; canary grass introduced into Kent by, 189; settled in Sandwich, 20; ; at Brighton, 260 ; colony of fishers in Sussex, 26?. Fletcher, Ji.hn, birthplace of, 249. Flelching church, the buriul-place of Gibbon, 277. Flints, exportation of, from Northfleet, 15. Folkestone, picturesque situation, origin of the name, history of, the church, 139; his- tory of the church and castle, piers, views from, 140 ; geological structure, walks from, 141 ; excursions from, 142. Foote, place of his death. 147. Foot's Cray church, effigies in, origin of the name, 27. Ford, an archiepiscopal palace, historical recollections, 189. Ford valley viaduct, 159; station, churches in tlie neighbourh<iod of, 304. Fordwich. its ancient fisheries, character- istics of its trout, 191. Forest ridge in Sussex, scenery of, 326. Forest Row, near Ashdown I<'orest. 327. Forests : the Blean, 71 ; Worih, 254 ; Tilgate, 255 ; submarine, near Bexhill, 292 ; Stan- stead, 522; Ashdown, 327; St. Leonard's, j;}. Forsham, foundation of a ruined building at, 130. Fort Clarence, military asylum at, 74. Fort Pitt, at Chatham, 46. Fossils, chalk, found at Northfleet, 15 ; found near Charlton, 22 ; in the Isle of Shcppey, 57, ;8; remains found near Burham, 75 ; iguanodon, plants found near Maidstone, 83; oysters, at Sundridge, 99; saurian, in the Hythe quarries, 136; ammonites, at Copt Point, 141 ; bones, in Chartham, 158; fragments of iguanodon, in Hastings sand, 242 ; leaves, ferns, in Worth sandstone, 25; ; of Tilgate Forest, 255 ; in the cal- careous strata of the' South Down, 263; near Hamsey, 277 ; starfish, 304 ; '"^'''i' Boguor, 505; of Bracklesham, J 16; fuci, near Bignor, 325. Foulness island, breadth of tideway between Whitstable and, 19. Fox, Bishop, baptized Henry A^IIl., <;. Franciscans, date of their establishnient in Canterbury, 186; house of, in Winchelsca, 247. Franklin. Sir .Tohn, relics of his expedition, 8 ; embarkation of his last expedition, 14. Franks, a house of Elizabeth's time, 30. Fraut church, view from, 229. Fredville Park, history of, the " Frcdville Oak," 222. GLASS. French Protestants, descendants of, in P.ye, 248. Frewens, the, of Brickwall Park, passages in their history, 24;. Friars' church, Elizabeth baptized iu, 5. Frigates, the invention of, 4. " Frinsbury Clubs," origin of the byeword, J4. Frinsted church, in Kent, 94. Friston Place, in Sussex, 281. Frittenden church, lately restored. 127. FroViisher, JNIartin, fleet of, at Gravesend, 15. Fuller, quoted, 48 ; description of Fordwich trout by, 191. G. Gad's Hill, robberies on, obelisk, 55 ; Dickens' house, 56. Gardens, market, the first in England, 203. Gavelkind, custom of, in Kent, vii. Gay, the original of his Polly Peachum, 10. Geiiibelli, the engineer of fortifications at Tilhury, 17. Geology of Ivent, xvii ; Sheppey, 57 ; the " Kentish rag," 95 ; conglomerate of Sund- ridge Park, 99 ; gravel-beds near Fam- borough, 103 ; rise of the gault and sand- stone hills, 124; greensand, underliers of the chalk, 130; section of the gault at Copt Point, 141. of Sussex, xxviii ; interval between sandstone and chalk, extent of Hastings sand, 242; Worth sandstone, 2;;; section of Wealden s.-xnd, 257 ; calcareous strata vpith fossils, 26j ; Bognor rocks, 304, 305 ; break in the clay at Bracklesham, 316, 317 ; character of the country on the Hastings sand, 329; cross fractures in chalk, 342. George I., resting-place of, on his way to Hanover, 63. George II., statue of, at Greenwich, 7 ; storm- stayed in Rye, 248. George IV.. gift of, to Greenwich Hospital, 7. Ghent, grant of English lands to the abbey of St. Peter at, 5. Gil)bon, grave of, 277. Gillingham, derivation of, church, battle fought at. 48; fort, 57. Gilly Wood, ravine in, 24;. Gilton, in Ash parish, Saxon burial-ground at. 208. Giustinian describes the " Henrye Grace de Dieu,' II. Glanville, Bishop, hospital founded by, }; ; monument to, 39. Glass, stained, fragments of, in Cliffe church, 32; in Rodmersliam church, 66; of the 15th century, at Selling, 71; in Snodland church, fragments of ancient, a chancel window of modern, 75; remains of, in Ditton and P^ast Mailing, 87 ; at Ofl'ham, fragments in chancel-windows, 88 ; modern window in Birling church, 90 ; fragments in Leeds church, 95 ; window by \Villeraent in Bromley church, 99 ; most of the ori- INDEX. 365 GLASS. ginal remaining in Pettiest ed church, 124 ; fragments of ancient, at Cranbrook, 128; Munich, in Kilndown chnrcli, fragments in Headcom, i"6. ; remains at Sandhurst, ijo; early German, at Plucliley, iji ; fragments in Little Chart church, ijz; in Monk's Horton, in Stowting, 138 ; in Wye college, 153 ; very fine Early English, 1 54 ; remains of the original in Oharlham church, 157 ; transept window in Canterliury cathedral, 168 ; in Trinity chapel, of the 13th century, 172, 173; in a transept window, 176; I)y Willement, in the Missionary College chapel, 183 ; fragments of Flemish, in the museum, 187 ; Isy Willement, in St. Ste- phen's cliurch, 188; by Willement, In Ash church, 208 ; modern and Flemish, of the 16th century, in Patrixbourne church, 218. Glass, stained, in Ticehurst ch., 230 ; frag- ments of, in Battle ch., 238; considerable remains in Crowhurst ch., 241 ; incongruous, in P,ye church, 249 ; remains of, at Wood- church, 253 ; in Slaugham church, 256 ; ■window in St. Nicholas' church, Brighton, ' 261 ; figures on, in Southover claurch, 270 ; fragments of Flemish, in Eastbourne, 282 ; modern memorial window in Hurstmon- ceux church, 287 ; fragments in AVestham church, 292 ; in Hove church, 292 ; modern windows in Arundel castle, 300; frag- ments in the Lady chapel, 303 ; modern windows in Chichester cathedral, 307 ; claiming to he the first modem memorial English Mnndow, 309 ; memorial window by Willement, 310; fragments in Bright- ling church, 3 jo; fragments in Stopham church, 355; early, at Parham, 339; Perp. in Whitley church, 345 ; in the chancel at Woolbeding, removed from Mottisfont, Gloucester Furnace, near Bayham Abbey, its dispute with Mayfield, 228. Glynde, etymology of, church and Place, 281. Godalming, coach from, to Midhurst and Chichester, 343. Godington, l^elonging to the Tolies, 13J. Godmersham, in Kent, 155. Golden Hind, the, entertainment of Queen Elizabeth on board, 5. Golden pippin, birthplace of the, 258. Goodnestone Park, church with old tower, 221, 222. Goodwin Sands, apocryphal origin of, 130 ; beacon for protection against, 202 ; seen from Kingsdown Cliffs, 211; extent of, sandbank forming, 212; memorable ship- wrecks on, hovellers, 213- Goodwood, derivation of the name, picture- gallery, 319,320; park, race-course, 320, 321. Gore Court, 64. Goring, railway station at, 297. Goudhurst, view from the church-tower, 128; smugglers of, 232. Graffham, view from, 353. \_Kent i^ Sussex.] HALL. Grain, Isle of, at the junction of the Thames and Mfcdway, 18; church on, 49. Grange, Perpendicular chapel at, 48. , the, Kent, 90. Grave-slabs of iron in Sussex, 230. Graveney church, fine brass in, 71. Gravesend, mode of transit from London to, 1 ; detention of ships at, 14 ; historical events connected with, 15 ; described, its public buildings, 16 ; width of the Thames at, 17 ; omnibus from, 31. Gravesends, family, the, manor-house of, at Nutsted, 32. Gray's Thurrock, its brick trade, 14. Great Bayhall, in Sussex, 228. Great Bounds, park near Tunbridge, 229. Great Chart, Perpendicular church contain- ing a remarkable brass, 135. Great Mongeham, near Deal, 213. Great Quex, history of its masters, 201. Great Sowdens Wood, heronry of, 24!. " Great upon Little," huge rocks near West Hoathly, 255. Greenhithe, chalk-trade of, embarkation of Franklin's expedition from, 14. Green way Court, a residence of the Cul- pepers, 93. Greenwich, transit from London to, i ; his- torical personages associated with, ;, 6; remarkable public buildings of, 6-11 ; powder-magazine removed from, 14. Gresham, Sir Thomas, his entertainment of Queen Elizabeth, 231. Grinling Gibbons, carvings by, in Ilurstmon- ceux, 287. Grocyn, William, tomb of, 80. Groombridge, Moat House at, the Duke of Orleans' imprisonment in, 229. Grove Ferry, strawberry gardens of, 192. Guestling church, a Flanders chest in the vestry, 241. Gundulf, Bishop, buildings of, at Rochester, 36, 37 ; reputed tomb, 40; tower of priory re-established by, 41 ; hospital founded by, 47 ; palace built by, 98. Gunpowder-magazine atErith, 14; on Plum- stead marsh, 25. mills at Dartford, 28 ; mills at Favers- ham, 69; mills, the largest in England, 238. Guston, legend of " the lone tree" at, 216. H. Hackendown Banks, battle fought at, tumuli, 201. Hadleigh Castle, date of its erection, 18. Hadlow Castle, in Kent, no. church, belonged to Hospitallers, the castle modern, 123. Hailsham, in Sussex, 285. Hales Place, built on the site of St. Stephen's Place, 188. Hall, event at Greenwich notified by, 5. S 366 INDEX. HALL. Hall Place, in Kent, 117. Hallanil, a residence of the Pelliams, 279. Halley, Edmund, bnvial-place of, 21. Hailing, Bishop's palace at, 74. Halnaker, in Sussex, chesnut avenue, ruins, JI9- Halstow Marshes, Roman potters' village, church, 62. Ham Street, on the borders of Rotnney Marsh, 2?;. Hamblin, Mr., inventor of the Nore light, 19. Hammer ponds, ; J4. Hammond. Dr., rectory of, 121. Hamsey Church, near Lewes, 276. Havbledown, site of an ancient lazar-house, church described, 72 ; seen from the rail- way, 158. Harbours on the coast of Kent: Sheerness, 59; Hythe, i?5; Folkestone, 159; Dover, 149, 150; Piamsgate, 197; the Downs, 211, 212. — on the coast of Sussex: in old times, Winchelsea, 24;; R.ye, rivers forming, 248 ; Newhaven, 279 ; old, of Pevensey, 291 ; Shoreham, old, silted up, 292 ; the new, 29; ; ancient, of Arundel, 298; Pag- ham, 516; old, of Steyning, 342. Hardham, ruined prioiy, church of St. Bo- tolph, 3j;. Hardres Court, memorials of HenryVIlI., 240. Hare, Archdeacon, rectory, grave of, 287. Haremare House, curious carving in, 2J2. Harold, scene of his death, 2J5 ; at IJosham, Harriotsbam church, architecture of, 94. Harrison, his reference to Thames salmon, 2. Harry, Mount, scene of the battle of Lewes, 274. Hartfield church, hills in the neighbourhood, J28. Hartlip, Roman remains at, 62. Harty church, curious oak chest in, 60 ; island, 61. Harvey, William, birthplace of, i;9. Hassock's Gate, near Brighton, 258. Hastings, situation of, 2_}8; source of its prosperity, the castle, 2J9 ; East Cliff, churches, celebrities of, 240 ; walks, ex- cursions from, 241, 242. Hawkhurst, lies partly in Kent, 2J2; the smugglers of, 23 j. Hawkinge, Norman church in, 142. Hawkins, Sir .John, hospital founded by, 47. ' Hayward's Heath, branch line to Lewes, 2;6; branch railway from, to Lewes, 266. Heathfield Park, tower a landmark in, J29; old foundry near, ? jo. Hedcorn, church, enormous oak in the church- yard, 128; excursion from, 150. Hengist, his battle on the Cray, 26; Kentish stronghold built by, 65 ; scene of his Iiattle with Vortigern. 75; "White Horse stone" of, 77 ; place of his landing in England, 196, 193. Hellingly, tragedy of, 285. IIOATH. Hendall, old house at, 278. Henfield, inscription in the church, 264. Hengrove, near Margate, 201. Henrietta Maria, building of, at Greenwich, 6. Henry II., grant of, to the Knights Templars, };; hospital founded by, 70; foundations laid by, at Dover, 146; penance of, 178. Henry III., Penshurst Castle besieged by, 12? ; hospital built l>y, 149; entertainment given to, by John Mansell, 25?; lodging of, before the battle of Lewes, 269. Henry IV., funeral of, 17J, 174. Henry V., alien priories repressed by, 5 ; entertained at Sittingbourne, 6j. Henry VI., bridge built by, 27; cannon- balls 01,96; Tenterden united to the Cinque Ports by, 1 jo. Henry VIII., guild of the Holy Trinity founded by, 4 ; passages in the life of, at Greenwich, 5 ; picture of his embarkation in the Henrye Grace de Dieu, 11 ; visit of, to Rochester, 3 ; ; castle in Slieppey re- paired by, 60 ; gardens of his fruiterer, 66 ; his possession of Knole, 106; his visits to Hever, 116; castles built by, 141; em- barkation at Dover, 144; works of, at Dover, 150; his visit to Charing, 155; grammar-school founded by, 180; block- houses built bj% 210. Henrye Grace de Dieu, building and launching of the, II. Hentzner, Queen Elizabeth described by, 6 ; - original of the tower of Miraflores accord- ing to, 10; his night journey to Dover, 222. Heppington, the residence of Bryan Fausset, 217. Heriot, Allen, lighthouse projected by, 252. Heme Bay, time of transit from London to, I ; the pier of, 19. Heme Hill, 71. Heme, situation of the village, Ridley's vicarage, bay, 189. Heronden Hall, in Kent, ijo. Heronry of Penshurst, 121; in Great Sow- dens Wood, 24? ; of Angniering Park, migration from, 298 ; history of the Par- ham, 3 39, 340. Hever Castle, description of, 115; history and historical associations, church, muddy roads, 116. Hicks, C., his collection of curiosities in Rye 250. Hicksted Place, in Sussex, built with orna- mental bricks, 257. Higham, Thames forded by the Romans at, 18; the church of, 32. in Sussex, 234- Highdown Hill, view from, earthwork on, " the miller's tomb," 297. Hildeferth, St., shrine of, 31 ; Cistercians, grants of F^astclnn'cli to, 60. Hill Park, near Brastcd, 113. Hill, St. Thomas's, school for sons of the clergy on, 7;. Hoath, ruined jialace in, 189. INDEX, ^37 HOG. Hog-house, residence of the first founder of iron cannon, 278. Holborough House, hamlet of, Roman liaiTOW opened in 1844, 74; view from the hill, 75. Hole, or Thames Haven, a port for Xurwegiau lobs,ter-boats, 18. HolUiigboume church, monuments of the Culpepers in, 94. HoUiugsbury Castle, near Brighton, 263. Holly, sea, unusually large in Sussex, 252. Holmbush, in St. Leonards Forest, j_J4. Holmsdale, the vale of, } 1 ; old rhyme de- scribing, 110. Holmstone, the, a tract in the Eomney Marshes, 252. Hoo, the hundred of, its character, j2 ; situ- ation of, wild geese, church, 48, 49. Hooker, memorials of, at Bishopsbourne, 219. Hop, cultivation of the, in Kent, xiv. Hop-grounds in the Blean, 72 ; of Maidstone, 79 ; near Turuham, 91 ; in the valley of the Medway, 124 ; in liast Farleigh, 126. Hope, A. J. Beresford, missionary college founded by, i8j. " Hope, the," last reach of the Thames, 18. Hope Point, battery at, 18. Horley, on the borders of the ^Veald, 254. Home Farm, in Sussex, late Decadence chapel at, 250. Horsham, branch railway from Three Bridges to, 254 ; derivation of the name, tine church, P'ammar-school, quarries, ai. Horsmonden church, fine brass in, wooden porch with Dec. bargeboards, 127. Horsted, grave of Horsa at, 75. Horsted Keynes, curious effigy in the church, Leighton's burial-place, 257. Horton, church of, used as a barn, 158. Horton Kirkby, architecture of its church, history of the manor, 29, jo. Horton Priory, history of, ijB. Hospitallers, Ivnights, gift of Rodmersham church to, 66; preceptory T)f, in West Peckham, I2j, 125; preceptory at Swing- field Minuis, 142; commandery of, in Po- ling, 298. Hospitals, for pilots and shipmasters :atDept- ford, 4 ; ship converted into an, 5 ; origin, history, description of Greenwich, 6-9; Norfolk College, :o ; Morden College, 20 ; Bishop Glauvi lie's, jj, J4; Richard Watts', in Rochester, 44; Jlilitary, at Chatham, 47 ; Sir John Hawkins', ilj. ; founded by Henry HI. at Ospringe, 70; founded by Archbishop Lanfranc, 72-7J ; founded by John Sedley at Aylesford, 76 ; A 11 Saints, in Maidstone, 80 ; Bromley College, founded 3666, its iiistory, 99; St. Banholomew's and St. John's, in Hythe, i}6; Maison Dieu, in Dover, 148 ; St. John's, Kast Bridge, in Canterbury, 186 ; Drapers', founded by a Quaker, 201 ; St. Thomas's, in Sandwich, 204 ; St. John and St. Bar- tliolomew, in Sandwich, ib. ; Naval, at Deal, 211. INNS. Hospitals in Sussex: ruined, at Arundel, 299. io}'i St. Mary's, in Chichester, ^ii, J 12 ; Sackville College, J26, J27. Hotels, at Cireenwich, 10; .at Staplehnrst, 127 ; Dover, 14J ; Canterbury, 158 ; Rams- gate, 197; Deal, 209; Hastings, 238; St. Leonard's, 241 ; iSrigbton, 259; Bognor, J04. Hothfield, Jack Cade at, ijj. ' Household AVords,' islets of the Medway described in, 56, 57. Hove, the " gold stone " of, 26j. , church with stained windows, 292. , a suburb of Brighton, 292. Howard, Thomas, 2nd Karl of Arundel, grave of, jo^. Hou bourne, relic of the Sussex iron manu- facture at, 278. Huckinge chinch, in Kent, 94. Huggins College, near Stone Bridge, 15. Humpbrey, Duke of Gloucester, the tcjunder of Greenwich Palace, 5; the 'Amadis de Gaul ' indebted to, 10. Hungerford i'ier, steamers from, for Graves- end, for AVoolwich, 1 ; remarkable build- ings to be seen after leaving, j. Hurst, nieauing of the termination, 129 ; sig- nification of, 2J0. House, in Romney Marsh, plots con- cocted in, 251. " Hurst" Woods, in Kent, 125. Hurstmonceux Castle, history, ruins of, 286 ; church, 287, 283. Hurstpierpoint, modern church, Dec, views from the churchyard, 258, 259. Hutchinson, Colonel, place of his imprison- ment and death, 210. Hythe, retiring of the sea at, ancient pro- sperity, ii5 ; church, collection of bones in the crypt, ib. ; hospitals, quarries, canal, ij6 ; road from New Romney to, 252. Icklesham church, Norman, carefully re- stored, 248. Ide Hill, view from, no. Iden, in Sussex, 250. Iford, church with central tower at, 274. Ightham Common, church modernised, no. " Ing," etymology of, 2^8, 298. Inns, at Northfieet, 15 ; Southend, 18; Wool- wich, 22; Dartford, 27; Rochester, 35; Chatham, 45 ; Sheeruess, 59 ; Sittingbourne, 6j ; Favcrshaai, 66 ; Kit's Coity House, 77 ; Maidstone, 78 ; Sevenoaks, 105 ; Hever, 116; Tunbridge, 122; Cranbrook, 128; Tenterdcn, 129 : Ashford, ij2 ; Folkestone, IJ9; Dover, 14J ; Withersden, i,}; Heme Bay, 189; Reculver, 191; on the Lynch, Thanet, lyj ; Ramsgate, 197 ; Broadstairs, 199 ; Margate, ib. ; Sandwich, 202 ; Deal, 209 ; Black Robin's Corner, 220. in Sussex : Tunbridge WelLs, 225 ; Eye, 248; New Romney, 251 ; Balcombe, 255; s 2 368 INDEX. IRENE. Haywards Heath, Ciukfield, 256; Stor- rington and Petworth, 264; Lewes, 266; Shorehara, 292 ; Worthing, 294; Arundel, 299; Chiihester, 505; Sutton, j23 ; Bury, Pulborough, and Storrington, 325 ; the " Cross in Hand," 326, 329 ; Horsham, jjz ; Pulborough, J j;; Storrington, Jj6; Steyn- ing, J41; Petworth, 544 ; Midhurst, 350. Irene, the tragedy, where composed, 9. Iridge Place, in Sussex, 234. Iron, notice of the ancient production and manufacture of, in Sussex, and existing remains, xxiv-xxviii ; old work near Bay- ham, lirtlustrade cast in, 228 ; grave-slabs, 2 jo; furnaces of JIayfield, 2ji ; oldest spe- cimen of, work in Sussex, 2J2 ; Penn's furnaces, m ; traces of Roman works, 244 ; grave slabs of, 255 ; stone, works of Ash- down Forest, 327 ; slabs in Withyam church, }28 ; old furnace below Heathfield, 3JO ; qualities of Ashbmnham, 331 ; stone of the Weald, 34?. Ironstone, bed of, near Erith, 13; in Ash- down Forest, 32'] ; i" 'lie Weald, 34!. Isfleld Place, in Sussex, church, Gundrada's tomb removed from, 278. Islip, Archbishop, timber felling of, 230. Itchingfield church, oak tower of, 334. Iwood, view from, over Warbleton, 330. James I., building of, at Greenwich, 6 ; his exchange of lands with Sir Robert Cecil, 27 ; in Rochester cathedral, 3;. James II., his detention at Rochester, 35; at Faversham, 69. James, Sir William, burial-place of, 97. Jansen, Cornelius, English residence of, 217. Jevington, near Eastbourne, 282. John, King, scene of his interview with Pan- dulph, 224. John's, St., Church, Margate, rich in brasses, 200. John's, St., College, near Brighton, connected with Lancing, 259. Johnson, Ur.,his name associated with Green- wich, 9. Jones, Inigo, architect of the Queen's House at Greenwich, 6; part of the palace at Greenwich built by, 7 ; a residence for himself built by, 22 ; additions of, to Cob- ham Hall, 50; his designs for Chcvening House, 104 ; house in Lamberhurst rebuilt by, 229. Jonson, Ben, his descriptions of Penshurst, n8. Joyden's AVood, 28. Judd, Sir Andrew, school founded by, 122. Jugs, Brighton, 260; Borstal!, 275. Julaber's Grave, supposed derivations of the name, 155, 156. Julius Caesar's wine, 146. Justus, first bishop of Rochester, 36. Juvenal, Rutupias mentioned by, 206. KYNOR. K. Katherine's, St., excavation and removal of the parish of, j. Kearsney Abbey, in Kent, 151. Kelsey Park, 98. Kempe, Abp., birthplace of, college founded by, I5J- Kemsing, St. Edith's well at, 114. Kemsley Down, Danish earthwork on, 64. Kenardington, earthwork near, 25?. Kent, extent and history, v; antiquities, X ; products and manufactures, xiii ; geo- logy and traveller's view, xvii ; skeleton tours, XXXV ; routes in, i ; origin of the name, 26 ; distinction between Kentish men and the men of, 31 ; Roman villas in, 6r ; sweet-chesnut trees in, 6;; its fertility, 66; chalk-hills of, 74; the "Infanta" of, 90; geology of, near Farnborough, loj ; fertility of the Medway valley, 124 ; the hop- district of, 126 ; introduction of canary grass into, 189; amber found on the coast of, 211 ; " the frieze garment" of, 220. "Kentish rag" described, 95; various uses served by, 96. " Kentish" tracery, windows where it occurs, 157- Kenwards, once a liouse of the Challoners, i57- . . Keycol Hill, Roman urns found m, derivation of the name, 63. Keymer, church of, in Sussex, 258. Keynes family, origin of, 257. Kid the pirate. Queen Amie's appropriation of his wealth, •^. Kidbrooke, near Ashdown Forest, 327. Kilndown, church with Munich stained glass, 128. Kingly Bottom, fine yew-trees, Danish skir- mish in, 321. Kingsborough, in Sheppey, annual courts held at, 60. Kingsdown, stained glass in the church, 115. , picturesque situation, old entrenchment, view from the cliffs, 211. Kingsgate, origin of the name, genuine and fictitious antiquities of, 201. Kingston, manor of, near Lew'es, 274. Kingstone, miracles of, 240. Kippinton Park, no. Kit's Coity House, cromlech, surrounding monuments, x, 77 ; sepulchral excava- tions, 78 ; avenue of stones from Coldrum to, 89. Knepp Castle, ruins of, picture gallery, 265 ; excursion to, from Horsham, J34. Knole, belonging once to Canterbury, 105 ; history of its transfer, house described, 106; pictures, 107-109; park and wilder- ness, 109. Knowlton Park, in Kent, 222. Kynor, landing of LEUa and liis sons at, 317. IXDEX, 369 LABERIUS. Labei'ius, locality of the battle where he fell, 2J4- La Hogue, memorial of the victory of, 6. Lamb, Charles, his appreciation of watering- places, 240. Lambarde, college founded by, 10. Lamberhurst, in Sussex, 229. Lancing, St. Nicholas' College at, derivation of the name, 294. Lanfranc, Archbisliop, hospital founded by, 72; scene of liis pleading against Odo of Bayeux, 87 ; estate given in exchange by, I2J ; rule for monasteries compiled by, 160; rebuilt Canterbury cathedral, 161; Norman masons brought into England by, Langdons, the two, in Kent, 215. Langley Parle, fann, 98. Langney, grange of Lewes priory, 285. Langridge, Elizabethan chinnieys at, 74. Langton, Arclibishop, place of his death, J26. Lantern, the, of Lewes priory, 269 ; of Michel- ham priory, 285. Lapis Tituli, of Nennius, probable site of, 209. I^arlcfield, hamlet and hundred of, 91. Laughton, in Sussex, old house of the Pel- hams in, 279. Lavington Woods, from the South Downs, iSi- Lawrence, St., near Ramsgate, church with Korman tower, 197. Lea, the, falls into the Thames, 11. Lee, the village of, 21. Lee Priory, pseudo-Gothic, contains two fine pictures, 218 ; establishment of the press, 219. Leeds Castle, its history, impoitance in Kent, description of, 92 ; priory, village, and church, 9?. Lees Court, 71. Leigh, oyster fisheries of, 18. Leigh church, curious brasses, 1 1 7. Leigh Pond, in Sussex, its wild fowl, 256. I-eighton, Archbishop, last residence and grave of, 257. Len, the, paper-mills on, 91 ; its source, 95. Lenham church, fine sedile in, 94 ; manor granted to St. Augustine's, Canterbury, character of the district, 94, 95. Le Notre, improvements by, at Greenwich, 9. Leominster, church and priory, io\. Leonard's, St., Forest, extending into Cuck- field parish, 256; its extent, legends of, ijj ; rivers rising in, ib. ; old iron-work, houses in, JJ4. , a manor of the Bishops of Rochester, 88. , its relation to Hastings, 241. Lesnes Abbey, raised embankments on the Thames, 12; excursion to visit, ij ; situ- ation, history of, 25. LYMNE, Lewes, branch railway from Hayward's Heath to, 256 ; Star Inn, 266 ; etymology of, situation, ib.; history of the castle, 267; priory of St. Pancras, 268 ; rains of the priory and church, 269 ; churches, 270, 271 ; County Hall, ^yalks in the neighbourhood, 272-274; scene, history of the battle, 274- 276 ; excursions from, 277-281. Lewisham, grant of, to a foreign abbey, 5 ; town and church, 19. Lewisheatli, a manor in Horsmondcn, 127. Leyborne, church and castle, 90. family, possessions of, in Kent, 90, 92. Lichen, the Scyphophorus, Microphyllus, habitat of, 255. Lights, on the coast of Kent, vessel on the Nore Sand, 18, 19; lighthouse on Margate pier, 200; North Foreland, 201, 202 ; floats ing, ou Goodwin Sands, 2ij ; on the South Foreland, 216. , on the coast of Sussex, on Dungeness Point, 252 ; the Bell Tout lighthouse, 28J. Lilbourne, John, place of his death, 97. Lime-trees, the first brought to England, 28. Lindfield, efligy, on glazed tiles, in the church, 257- Linton Place, fine view from, church and village, 95 ; Place and church, 127. Lintot, Barnaby, birthplace of, az. Little Charlton, in Kent, 131. Little Chart, churcli, effigy of a Darell, I j2. Little Hampton, landing of the Empress Ma- tilda, canal to Portsmouth, sands, 298. Little Horsted, in Sussex, 278. Littlebounie, junction of the Stour and Lesser Stour, 219. Lodsworth church, woodwork cloister, ^50. London Bridge, wharf, steamers from, for Margate, i. station, railway trains from, for Dept- ford, Greenwich, i. Longsole, the hermitage at, 78. Loose, village, picturesque situation of, 95. Losenham priory, supposed siie of, 130. Louis Philippe, residence of, during 184:8, 241 ; his landing at Newhaven, 279. Lovelace, Pdchard, birthplace of, 24. Lowell Hill, the highest ground in Thanet, 199. Lower Danefield, P.oman baths in, 6j. Lower, M. A., Handbook of, for Lewes, 267. Lucan, Rutupiae referred to by, 206. / Luddesdon, church and manor, 74. LulUngstone Castle, ruins of the old, 114; situation of the present, church with mo- numents, 115. Lvmt, belonged to the Hamlyns, now a farm- house, 257. Lydd, large Perpendicular church in, 252. Lydden, "nailbourne" rising at, 224. Lyell, Sir Charles, ins school, 350. Lyminge, nunnery, church of various periods, 142. Lymne, drive to, walls of, IJ7 ; river, its S 3 370 INDEX. LYNCH. change of course, church and watch-tower, ii8. Lynch, St. Blildred's, legend of St. Mildred, I9i. M. Magavelda, St. Dunstan's, 2?o. Maidstone, population of, derivation of the name, 78 ; sources of its wealth and im- portance, historical events, "jg ; church and tombs, 79, 80; All Saints' Hospital.'archie- piscopal palace, 80, 81 ; old quarter of, 82; excursions from, 8j ; excursion" to Mailing Abbey and Addington, 87 ; road from Westerham and Sevenoaks to, 89 ; excursion from, to Leeds Castle and Charing, 91 ; excursion to Linton from, 95. Mailing Abbey, a Benedictine nunnery, its architecture, 88. Mailing, in Sussex, the deanery of, 27J. Mann, Sir Horace, burial-place of, 9;. Mansell, John, priory founded by, his sump- tuous ostentation, 2;}. Mansion Court, near Ramsgate, 197. Mantell, Dr., birthplace of, 272. Manufactures, Kent : biscuit-making atDept- ford, 4 ; engine factory at Woolwich, 12; lime at Northfleet, 15 ; gim factory at Woolwich, 2} ; printing mills, saw mills on the Cray, 26 ; paper mills on the Cray, 27 ; the founder of Dartfoi'd mills, 28 ; , paper mills at Eynsford, 30 ; saw mills at Chatham, 45 ; copperas works in the isle of Sheppey, 58 ; powder mills near Favers- hani, 69; lime works at Durham, 75; paper mills on the Medway, 76 ; oil mill, paper mills at Maidstone, 79 ; Turkey and paper mills in the neighbourhood of Maid- stone, 82 ; paper mills in Bradbourne Park, 88 ; paper mills on the Len, 91 ; broad- cloths of Cranbrook, 127; of Goudhurst, 128; paper mill at Chartham, 158; of the Flemings in Sandwich, 2o}. .^— in Sussex : Tunbridge ware, origin of, 227 ; old iron furnace near Bayhara, 228 ; iron, at Mayfield, 2ji; iron furnaces of Hawkhurst, 2j?; powder mills of Battle, 2J8 ; relics of the old Weald iron, 278 ; in old times, glass works, J4J. Manwood, Sir Roger, schools, almshouses founded by, 188. Marden, in Kent, 127. Maresfield, near Lewes, 277. Maresfield manor, assigned to John of Gaunt, }27; park, }28. Margaret's, St., at Cliif, fine Norman church at, 215; manor Ijelonging to Canterbury, bay famous for lobsters, 216. Margate, mode of transit from London t<i, i ; source of its prosperity, name, unde deri- vatur, 199; the original village, place of embaikation for Holland, 200. Martello towers, on the coast of Sussex, 252 ; between Eastbourne and Hastings, 28j. MONTFORT. Martin, George, the Bible translator, birth- place of, 242. Martyrs, portraits of, on church windows, 75- Mary Cray, St., church, brasses m, 27. Mary, Queen, the birthplace of, 5. Mask, scene of the first, in England, 5. Maxfield, old timbered house at, 242. Mayfield, road from Tunbridge Wells to, , 228 ; legends of St. Dunstan, archbishops who died at, 130; church, ruins of the palace, furnaces, 231 ; St. Dunstan's well, excursions, 2?2. Mayor, Lord, of London, " Conservator of the Thames," 2; limit of his jurisdiction, 18. Medway, the, bounding the Lord Mayor's jurisdiction on the Thames, i ; joins the Thames, 18 ; towns on, j}, 34; oyster fish- eries, 44; name of, 56; its islands, 57; from Rochester to Maidstone, 74; paper mills on, 76 ; at AUington castle, 8J ; castle on, 122, 12? ; the valley of, 124; at Farleigh, 126; source of, J27. — Meopham, village and church, J2. Mereworth, fertility of the country between Maidstone and. 96 ; castle and church, modern, 12;, 126. Merscwara, the, Saxon, 250. Mersham Hatch, in Kent, ijj. Merton College, the founder of, jg. Michelham priory, a house of Augustinian canons in Henry III. 's reign, 28;. Middlesex, boundary between Essex and, 11. Midhurst. situation of, 350; foundations of the Bohuns' Castle, 351 ; country between F.arnhurst and, 352. Midl.avant church, in Sussex, 355. Mike Mill's Race, an avenue in St. Leonard's Forest, 233. Milford House, near Godalmiug, 343. Milgate, in Kent, 91. Milsted church and manor, 94. Milton, Decadence church at, 16. , oyster fisheries, church, 64. , near Canterbury, 158. Street, Anglo-Saxon coins found, 282. " Minnis," signification of, 224. Minster, in Sheppey, copperas factory at, 58; the site of a nunneiy, history of, 59. , legends of the monastery, 192 ; church described, 193; court, turbulent tenantry of the manor, ib. ; chalkpit, 194. Mints, Athelstane's, at Lewes, 267. Missionary college, in Canterbury, 18?. iVloat, the', Ightham, built at three periods, history of its transfer to the Selbys, iil, 112. INIonceux, Waleran de, places named from, 286. Monk's Horton, curious wooden tower at, 138. Monkton, the church, of all perifids, 196. Montague, Lord Anthony, his 'Book of Or- ders and Rules,' 351. Slontfort, Simon de, siege of Rochester 'by, i7 ; troops assembled by, on Barham INDEX. 571 MONTREAL. Downs, 221 ; conduct of, at the battle of Lewes, 2^$ ; encampment of, 2']7. Montreal, in Kent, no. Moore, Giles, journal of, 257. Morant's Court Hill, view from, no. Morden College, an hospital, date of its found- ation, 20. More, Sir Thomas, vault where his bead was buried, 186. Mortimer the painter, birthplace of, 284. Morton, Archbishop, his furtherance of the union of the Hoses, i^v. Mote, the, signification of the name, 82 ; his- tory of, 8j. Mottenden, house of Crouched Friars in, 128. Muntham, near Cis'sburj', 296. Museums in Kent : at Chatham, 47 ; at Brompton, ib. ; the Charles, at Maidstone, 82; Dover, 149; Canterbury, 186, 187; Iilargate, 200; archaeological collection of Mr. Rolfe in Sandwich, 205. in Sussex : of the Sussex Archaeological Society, 267, 268 ; in Chichester, 311. N. '' Xailbourne " in Addington parish, 90 ; at Barham, 220 ; at Lydden, 224. Xapoleon, relics of, at Woolwich, 24. Nash Court, 71. Nash, a hamlet in Kent, 9?. Nash Court, near Margate, 201. Nathurst Lodge, ruins of an old castle at, 3^4. Nelson, relievoes representing his death, 7 ; relics of, preserved at Greenwich, 8. Nettlested church, fine stained glass in, 124 ; Place, its owners, 125. Nevilles, ancient residence of the, near By- arsh,9o; country-house belonging to, for above 500 years, 229. New Cross, view from, 19. " New Place " in Angmering, birthplace of the Palmers, 298. New P>omney, Saxon name of, 251 ; cause of its decline, sole remaining church of, an- nual fair, 252. Newenden, in the church a square font, Nor- man, establishment of Carmelites, lio. Newhaven, drive from Brighton to, 26j ; place of embarkation for Dieppe, Louis- PhiUppe's lauding at, 279; excursions from, 280. Newington, church, priory, 6j ; curious font in the church, 142. Newtimber Place, moated house near Brigh- ton, 264. Newton, Sir Adam, manor-house built by, occupation of his retirement, 21. Nicholas, St., history of the church of, at Deptford, 4; at Wade, road from Jlinster to, igj ; description of the church, 196. Noning'ton church in Kent, 222. Nore sand, light on, 19. North Foreland, lighthouses, sea-fight off, 201, 202. OXENBRIDGE. North, Lord, his discovery* of Tunbridge Wells, 226. , Roger, Sayes Court gardens described by, 4. Northampton, Henry Earl of, college built and endowed by, 10. Northbourne, fine church at, described, 21J ; court, its gardens, 214. Northfleet described, 15, J i. Northiam church, in Sussex, 24?.' Normans, in Kusper, old chest preserved at, Norwood, the gipsies of, 98. Nun of Kent, her cell in Canterbury, 184. Nunnery, first established in England, 140. Nutsted, 14th century manor-house at, ji. 0. Oak-trees, 2 of unknown age, in Sussex, 279. Dates, Titus, birthplace of, 240. Observatory, the, at Greenwich, 10; com- pass, at Woolwich, 24; onBrightliugDown, no. Ockendon House, Timothy BurrelKs resi- dence, 256. (Ella, the landing of, J17. Oft'ham, church and Green, 88; chalk-pits, railway, 276. Offington, ancient residence of the De la Warres, 294. Old Mailing, church at, tradition of Becket's murderers, 272, 27J. Old Place, in Pulljorougb, }j;. Old Romney, the earliest Cinque Port, 252. Oldben-y Hill, Roman camp at, no. Oldcastle, Sir John, his possession of Cowl- ing, J3 ; his right to the title of Lord Cob- ham, 49. OUantigli, near Wye, i;j. Ore Place, built bj' John of Gaunt, 241. Orleans, Duke of, his prison for 25 years. 229. Orpington church, architecture of, 27. Osengall Hill, railway cutting in, graves, 198, 199. Osmunda regalis, growing plentifully at Har- rison's Rocks, 229. Ospriuge, Maison Dieu at, 70. Ossuaries in Kent, 135. Otford, ruins of an archiepiscopal palace at, church of, 114. Othani church, 91. desecrated chapel at, 285. Otterden Place, church built on| the site of ancient one, 95. Otway, birthplace of, J52. Ouse, the, in Sussex, viaduct over, 256 ; flow- ing through Lewes, 266 ; old estuary of, 263 ; knights drowned in, 276 ; old port of, 279; its original outlet, 280; source of, }ii, JJ4- Ovingdean church, in Sussex, 26?. Oxenbridge, Sir Goddart, legend of, monu- ment in Brede church, 242. 372 INDEX. OXFORD. Oxford, chair of ship-timber at, 5 ; professor- ship at, founded by Camden, 26. Oxney Court, in Kent, 215. , a cattle-feeding island in the Rother, 250. Oyster-fishery on the Thames, 18, 19; fish- eries in the Jledway, 44 ; of the Cheyney Rock, 60 ; at Milton, 64 ; ancient guild of fishers, 69. P. Paddleworth, Xorman church at, 142. Pagliam Ilarljour, the Hushing Well, church injured by repairs, ji6. Paintings in Greenwich by Sir James Thorn- bill, 8 ; mural, in Rochester cathedral, j8 ; traces of, in the crypt, 40; in Faversham church, 67 ; Maidstone church, 80; min-al, in St. Martin's College, Dover, 148 ; Ro- man mural, in Richborough, 207. found in Sussex : mural, of the Dec. period, in Lindfleld church, 257 ; mural, in Preston church, of Beclset's murder, 26 j; mural, in St. Nicholas's church, Arundel, 30; ; Bisliop Sherborne's " lace-work," jo8- 310; ceiling attributed to Bernard!, 311; ceiling, by Kneller, 317; in Boxgrove church, 318; mural, in Rotherfield church, 329; by La Guerre, at Petworth, 345 ; mural, rude, in Shulbrede priory, 352. Pancras, St., distinguished by Augustme, 268. Paper manufacture of Kent, xvii. Parsons, William, burial-place of, 21. Parham, situation of, 336; collections of MSS., early printed books, armour, &c., 337; pictures and gallery, 338; chapel, park, and heronry, 339; raven's nest, 340. Pashley, house in Ticehurst, 230. Pateha'm Place, in Sussex, 298. Patrixbourn, fine Normau chvarch, 217; vi- carage, 218. Paulinus, St., church dedicated to, 26, 27. Paul's Cray, St., architecture of, 27. Paultring, Thanot, custom of, ig?. Pax Hill, an Elizabethan liouse in Sussex, 257. Peasemar^h, in Sussex, 250. Pegwell Bay, landing-place of Augustine, 73 ; the two landings in, 197. Pelhams, the, devices of, at Crowhurst, 241 ; monument to Sir Nicholas, 271 ; old house of, at Laughton, 279 ; an exploit, 280 ; at Pevensey, 289 ; priory removed from Hastings by Sir John, ?jo. Pelt, walk from, to Cliff End, 242. Pembury church, in Sussex, 228. Penn, William, his iron-furnaces, 233. Pennenden Heath, " shyregemots " on, 87. Penshurst Place, irregularity of the Imild- ings, apparent antiquity, 117; hall and vaulted cellar, 118 ; pictures, 119 ; history, worthies of, the park, 1 20. Peppingford Lodge, near Ashdown Forest, 328. TORTUS. Pepys, Mr., quoted, 6 ; the Dutch in the Thames, 46. Percies, the, date of their possession of Pet- worth, 344. Peter the Great, residence of, at Sayes Court, 4. Peter's, St., near Broadstairs, church Perpen- dicular, 199. Petham, remains of entrenchments at, 220. Pett, Peter, his invention, his monument at Deptfurd, 4. , Phineas, the shipbuilder, portrait of, 11. Petworth, town, church, monuments of the Percies, 344 ; annals of the park, 344, 345; pictures, 345-349 ; park landscapes, the Ravens' Clump, 349, 350. Pevensey Bay, wild fowl in, 284; "Lowy" of, 288 ; history of the castle, f288, 289 ; description, 289, 290; landing of William, 290; church, 291 ; old prison, 292. Pliilipott, Sir John, chapel built by, 48. Pickwick Papeis, view from Rocliester bridge described, 35; principal productions of Rochester, 36 ; review at Chatham, 48 ; an- tiquarian discovery, 54. Pictures, collections of, in Kent : at Green- wich, 7,8; Eritb, 13; Cobham, cards of admission to, 49; tlie gallery described, 50-53 ; Preston Hall, 78 ; portraits at Chevening, 104; Knole, 107-109; Shore- ham, 114; Redleaf, 117; Penshurst, 119; two good, in Lee prioiy, 218; St. Albans Court, 222. , collections of. In Sussex : portraits in Brickwall House, 24; ; Knepp Castle, 265 ; 2, in the Coimty Hall, Lewes, 272 ; Arun- del, 300; Goodwood, 319, 320; Up Park, 322 ; Slindon, 326 ; Ashburnham House, 3;i ; early, in distemper, at Parham, 337 ; others, gallery at Parham, 338, 339; Pet- worth, 345-349- Piddinghoe, popular saying regarding, 280. Pigeonhouse of Lewes Priory, 269. " Pilgrims' Path," the, above Hailing, 74, 91 ; crossing Chevening Park, 104; on the hills above Otford, 114; route of, described, 155. Playden church, Walloon brewer's monu- ment in, 250. Plaxtole church, in Kent, iii. Pluckley, Early English church in, fine views from the village, 151. Plumpton Place, old moated house, in Sussex, 253. Plumstead, church and churchyard, 25. "Point, the,'' a chalk cavern on Blackheath,2i. Polegate, branch railways from, 282. Poling, wild fowl decoy in, old commandery, 298. Pool, the, the Thames below London Bridge,?. Pope, recollections of, at West Grinstead, 265. Rjplars, 100 j-ears old in Canterbury, 186. Po]ipy, the yellow horned, habitat, virtues of, 140. Portus Culhmanni, retiring of tl'.e sea from, i42- INDEX. 373 PORTUS. Portus Lemaiiis, its present distance from the sea, IJ5 ; descriljed, ijS. Pottery : Roman, in UpclmrcU marshes, 62 ; stoneware, near Aylesford, ']6 ; British, Roman, and Samian ware, found in Camden Parlv, 100 ; Roman, from Wye Downs, 175 ; Roman, in Chilbam Castle, 176 ; red Samian ware, dredged up off Reculver, 188, 191 ; Roman, found in Richborough, 207 ; a Ro- man, discovered, at Dinicburcb, Samian ware, 253 ; Roman, found at Cissbury, 295 ; Roman, at Bignor, j2;. Poundgate, Druidical remains, 89. Poynings, church, ruins of the old manor- house, 263. Premonstratensian canons, priory founded by Richard de Clare for, i2j ; abbey founded 1191, for monks, 151; house of, canons, removed from Otham to Bayham, 228 ; severe architecture of, ib. ; house of, founded by Henry Hoese, 352. Preston church, 70; hall, originally a man- ' sion of the Colepepers, 78. , mural painting in, 26 j. Priory at Dartford, history of, 27. Products of Kent, xiii ; of Sussex, xxix. Prospect House, an inn on St. Mildred's Lynch, 19; ; high ground above, 19;. Provinces, the United, deputies from, re- ceived 1588 at Greenwich, 6. Ptolemy, the Counnenos of, 5. Puck Church Parlour, cliff near Seaford,28i. Pudding Pan Rock, theories accounting for Samian ware found off, 191. Pugin, A. W., residence of, atRamsgate, 197. Pulborough, church of, a type unusual in Sussex, Roman castellnm, jj5. Purfleet described, origin of the name, i} ; powder-magazine, 14. Q. Quarries in Kent : chalk at Buriiam, 75 ; Kent- ish rag, 8j, 95 ; conglomerate, 99 ; marble, IJ2; greensand, i;6. in Sussex : above Cuckfield, 256 ; Hors- ham, JJ2; Petworth marble, j;o. Quarry Hills, the, group of churches on, i ;o. Queenborough Castle, a fortification of Sheer- ness, 58 ; position of, 60. Quex family, residence of the, 201. Quile, shares of plunder, 19;. R. Racton, near Stanstead Park, J22. Radigund's, St., Abbey, excursion to, 142 ; date of its foundation, ruins, i;i. Rainham, mommients in the church of, 61. Raleigh, Sir Walter, at Greenwich, 6. Ramsgate, situation of, origin of the name, piers, 197. ROMAN. Raven's nest at Parham, 340 ; Clump at Pet- worth, J50. Ravensbourne, the, its junction with the Lee, }. Reculver, seen from Hearne Bay, 19 ; Samian ware dredged up off, 188 ; Roman fortress, Saxon palace, 189-191 ; ruined church, tra- dition of the "Sisters," 191. Redleaf, near PensUurst, picture-gallery, views from the grounds, 117. Reed grass, used lor fencing in Kent, 209. Regiumi, site of, 305. |{egulbium, the ancient, 190. Richard II., right of conveying passengers to London confirmed by, 15 ; one of his pri- sons, 92 ; at Eltham, 97. Richard ill., estate forfeited by Buckingham to, I2J ; story of his son, tlie last Planta- geiiet, 15}, 154- Richborough, fortress on the Wantsome, 190; railway view of, i<)i; its classical reputation, 205, 206; memorials of the Roman period, 206; description of the for- tress, 207 ; the amphitheatre, occupation of, by Saxons, 208. Ridley, Bishop, his first cure, 189. Ringmer, in Sussex, 275. Ringwould, church of, a landmark, 215. Ripley Court, Alexander Idens residence, 15 f. Ripple church, belonging to St. Augustine's, 215. Piiver, a village in Kent, 151, Kiverhill, in Kent, no. Roljcrtsbridge, ruins of a Cistercian Abbey at, ^V'alpole s visit, 2;}. Rocher de Cancale, importation of oyster- spawn from, 18. Rochester, character of the town, bridges, 34, }y ; historical personages associated wilh, 3;; description of, j6 ; the cathedral, j6- 41 ; bishops of, martyrs, or exiles, 41 ; priory and deanery, 41 ; the castle de- scribed, 42; its history, 45 ; other objects of interest, trade, appellation of the inha- bitants, 44, 45 ; walk from, 49; fine view of, 74 ; tribute from Mailing Abbey to the bishop, 88 ; former residence of the bishops of, 98. Rodersham church, belonged to the Knights of St. John, 66. Roding, the, joins the Thames, 12. Rugate, in Sussex, 352. lingers, Samuel, country-house of, no. Rolvenden, in Kent, ijo. Roman antiquities in Kent, xi ; traces of bui'.dingsat Ji ydi'iVsWood, 28 ; in the val- ley of the Darent, jo ; bricks in Swanscombe church, J I ; causeway, near Higham. 52 ; the Castrum Durobriva-, 35 ; on Boley Hill, 4J ; liricks in Rochester walls, 44; villas in Kent, 61 ; potteries, masonry, in the Up- church marshes, 62 ; baths at Hartlip, 62, 63 ; sepulchral urns, 6j ; relics found at Iiavington, 70; traces of buildings on the Medway banks, 74 ; fibula found near Hoi- 374 INDEX. ROMAN. borougb, lb.; traces of a villa, "j;; villa near Aylesford, 78 ; relics found at Jlaid- stone, 82; road to Maidstone, 89; urns in Thurnliam Castle, 91 ; pottery and Samian ■ware, found at Camden Place, 100; tiles in Hayes church, loi ; villas near Keston, "Cesar's Camp," tlie site of a town, 102; camp at Oldberry Hill, no; road, remains of villas near Court of Street, IJ4; castrum near Lymne, IJ7; Caesar's Camp, near Folkestone, 141 ; the Pharos at Dover, 14; ; burial-gi-ound on Wye Common, i;j ; form of the city on the site of Canterbury, ng ; fortress at Reculver, 190 ; graves in Tha- net, 198; sepulchral urns at Daundelyon, 200; urns In Sandwich, 204; the ancient Eutupi.v, 205-208 ; sepulchral remains in AValdershare park, 22j. Roman Antiquities in .Sussex, xxi; traces of iron-works, 244 ; altar in Stone vicarage, 250 ; settlement on Romney Marsh, ib. ; remains of a pottery at Dimcliurcb, 25? ; remains of an entrenchment on the South Downs, 258 ; site of a camp in Lewes, 2']t ; urns and medals found near Seaford, 280 ; villa at Birling Gap, 284; fortress at Pe- vensey, 288-289; remains found in Chi- chester, 305; in St. Olave's church, }12; pavement under St. Andrew's church, ib. ; slab at Goodwood, ?2o; pavements at Bignor, j24, J25 ; gold ring, n5 ;«istellum, traces of a villa near Pulborough, J35 ; entrenchment, ib. ; remains of a bridge at Bramber, 342. " Roman Codde," possible interpretation of, 211. Ronmey Marsh, its isolation, 250; unhealthi- ncss, cattle fed on, sea-walls, 251. Romney, removal of Cinque Port Courts to, 133. Rooke, Sir George, memorial of his naval victory, 7. Roper, Margaret, berhouse in Canterbury , 1 36, P.ose Hill, in Sussex, jjo. RosherviUe Gardens, transit from London to, I ; laid out in old chalk-pits, 15. Rother, the, ancient river identified with, 138 ; point to which it was anciently navi- gable, 2J2; picturesque situation of an abbey on, 233 ; death of Laberius at, 254; joining two rivers to form Rye harbour, 243 ; "fonning Oxney island, 250 ; wall marking the old course of, 251 ; results of its change of course, 252 ; castellum com- manding its junction with the Arun, ?}? ; navigable from Midhurst, 350 ; bridge built by Lord Caniois over, 352; valley of, 358. — — , the Little, flowing past Cowdray, 351. Rotherfield, church with spire at, 329. Rottingdean, battle fought at, 263, 264. Round Down Cliffs, removal of, by gun- powder, 14J. Routes in Kent: the Thames, London to Margate, i ; London to Chatham, 19; the Isle of Sheppey, 56; Chatham to Canter- SAXONS. bury, 61 ; Rochester to Maidstone, 73 ; London to Sevenoaks, 96 ; Eeigate to Dover, 115; Ashford to Canterbury, 152; Canterbury to Margate, 188; Cantert>ury to Dover, 202 ; Canterbury, by Barbara Down, to Dover, 217. Routes in Sussex: Tunbridge to Hastings, 225; Hastings to Ashford, 24; ; London to Brighton, 253; London to Hastings, 286 ; Brighton to Chichester, 292 ; East Grin- stead to Hastings, 326; Horsham to Shore- ham, 332; Godalming to Chichester, ^4;. " Royal Albert," the, marks an epoch in ship-building, 11. " Royal George," the, model of, 9 ; built at Woolwich, II ; relics of, 47. Roydon Hall, an estiite of the Twysden family, 125. Rucking, in Sussex, 253. Ruim, t$ritish name of Thanet, 194. Rusper, nunnery house at, 334. Rutupi*, the ancient, 205. Eyarsh Hill, Innaidical remains on, 89 ; church, 90. Rye, .ancient aspect of, 248 ; retiring of the sea from, causes of its decline, ib. ; church, Ypres tower. Land Gate, 249. Rysbrach, statue by, at Greenwich, 7. Sackvilles, the, old mansion of, in Sussex, 328. .Salehurst church, below Silver Hill, 233. Salisbury, Countess of, a manor belonging to, 28. Sulmeston, anciently a grange of St. Augus- tine's, 201. Saltwood castle, description, history of, in- jured by an earthquake, 136; Beckel's murderers at, 137 ; tunnel, 139. Salvington, memorial of Selden at, 297. Samphire, on Beachy Head, 284. Sancup Well, in Penshurst Park, 121. Sandgate, fortifications of, 141. Sandhurst, church mutilated, 130. Sandling Place, 85. Park, near Saltwood, 137; Saltwood Castle seen from, 1 39. Sandown, near Deal, ruined castle where Colonel Hutchinson died, 2ro. Sandstone, yellow, of Worth. 255. Sandwich, description, history of the town, 202 ; historical recollections of, Flemish colony, 203 ; churches and hospitals in, 204 ; grammar-school founded by Sir Roger Manwood, 205. Sarre, ferry in old times at, 192. Satis, Master Watts' house, origin of the name, 4;. Saxon antiquities in Kent, xi. Sa.xons, 'scat of their ancient councils, 32; name of Rochester, 3; ; 10,000 baptized, 58 ; scene of a mass.acre of the Britons by, 65 j scene of their shyregemots, 87 ; mode IXDEX^, 375 SAVES. of recognising tbeir settlomnnts, 129; mansions built by, 1^5 ; site of a cemeterj' of, 140; palace at Retulver, 190; their early possession of Tbanet, 194 ; graves of, on Osengall Hill, 198 ; coins, ornaments of, found in Richborough, 208 ; one of their earliest settlements, 208, 209 ; first colonies of, 2ij; district in Ronmcy Marsh, 250; architecture of, 254; first colonists of the south, 305; settlement of the south, 317; fortress, 342. Sayes Court, buildings now on the site of, 4. Schalch, Andrew, history of his appointment at Woolwich Arsenal, 22. Seotney Castle, in Lamberhurst, 229. Scot's Hall, history of its possessors, IJJ. Sea-wall, from Romney to Hythe, district taxed for. 252, 253. Seacock's House, built by smugglers, 252. Seaford, attacks of the French on, St. Leo- nard's church at, 280, 281. Seal church, curious brass in, 110. Sedlescomb church, font-cover, Perp., 244. Sedley, Sir Charles, birthplace of, 76. Selden, birthplace of, 297. Selling church, fine window in, 71. Selsey, tradition of the Saxon conversion at, submerged cathedral, present church, 315 ; wild fowl, fishery, 316. Selsfield Common, once a beacon-station, views from, 256. Series, near Lewes, 277. " Seven Sisters," the, between Seaford and Beachy Head, 281. Sevenoaks, route from Farningham to, 30 ; town, church, almshouses, 105 ; drive to Tunbridge from, no; excursion from, to Wrotham and the i\loat, no; excursion from, to Dartford, 113, 114. Sevenokes, William, history of, 105. Severndroog, taking of, commemorated, 12, 25- Sexburga, nunnery founded by, 59; her death, 64. Shakspeare, associated with Greenwich, 5. Sheemess, at the mouth of the Med way. 18 ; steamboats for, 33 ; situation, fortifica- tions, 58 ; divisions, dockyard, storehouse, 59 ; road from Sittingbourne to, 65. Sheffield Place, near Lewes, 277. Sheldwich church, 71. Shelley, Percy B., birthplace of, 3J4. Shellness, coastguard-station, 61. Sheppey, the Isle of, its clay cliffs, 19 ; means of transit to, ;6; earlier name, population, fossils, 57, 58 ; principal places, 59, 60 ; view of, 64. Shepway Cross, courts held at, 138. Sherborne, Bishop, lacework of, in Chichester, 308; tower built by, 317; house at Am- berley built by, 336. Shermanbury, Ewhurst gateway at, 264. Shillinglee Park, lake in, 343. Shipley, Templars' chunh at, 265. Shirleys, the, of Wiston House, 340, 341. SODTH. Shooter's Hill, its site, 12'; origin of the name, 24. Shoreham Place, pictures at, 1 14. , New, and Old, 292 ; hislorical recol- lections, 292, 293; churches, 293; excur- sions from, 294. Gap, transverse fissure in the chalk, 342. Shorncliffe, camp and barracks at, 141. Shorne church, 32; excursion to, 49; de- scribed, 54. , jNIaister John, shrines of, 54, 55. Shottenden Hill, Roman camp, 71. Shove], Sir Cloudesley, his gift to Crayford church, 26 ; his gift to Rortrester, 44. Shrewsbury, Countess of, her tomb in Erith church, 13. Shulbrede, priory, ruins, the prior's chamber, 352. Shurland, Sir Robert de, tomb of, in Minster church, 59. , manor of, in Sheppey, 60. Sidlesham, church and village, 317. Sidney, Sir Philip, birthplace of, l2o ; scenes of his 'Arcadia,' 120, 121. Sidneys, the, portraits of, at Penshurst, his- tory of, 119, 120. Silver Hill, on the borders of Kent and Sus- sex, view from, 233. Sittingbourne, historical recollections, church, 63 ; road to Shcerness, 65. Sissinghurst, French prisoners confined in, 128. Skeleton tours, xxxv. Slaugham Place, ruins of, village and church, 256; carved oak staircase brought from, 266. Slindon Park, Elizabethan house, fine beech- trees, 326. Slough, in Sussex, 256. Small Hythe, chapel where drowned corpses were buried, 1 50. Smarden chmxh, curious chancel arch of, 132. Smeeth church, with Xorman portions, 133. Smith, Charlotte, residence of, 325. Smith, Sir Sidney, school of, 122. , Sir Thomas, his monument in Sutton church, 29. Smugglers, of Goudhurst and Hawkhurst, 2327233; of Hastings, 240; atBrede Place, 243 ; in Romney Marsh, 251 ; of Beachy Head, 283. Snargate, Early English church in, 251. Snodland, 74; church at, 7;. Socknersh, in Sussex, 330. "Sole," Kentish meaning of, 151. Somerhill, historical recollections of, 123, 124. Sonnne, the, " Danes' Holes " on, compared with English, 17. Sompting, church, tower with gabled spire, 294, 295 ; fig-trees in, 296. Sorbiere, his description of Kent, ix. Sore Place, date of, house described, 1 1 1. South Downs, the, highest point of, 258 ; 376 INDEX. SOUTH. situation of Lewes on, 266 ; isolated mass of hill on, 27 J ; sheep of, 274; battle on, 275 ; termination, 18} ; wooded slopes, J25, J26. South Foreland, walk to Dover by the, 214 ; lighthouses on, 216. South Park, in Kent, 122. Southend described, 18. Southese, church with round tower, 280. Southover church in Lewes, tombstones of the De Warrenes in, 270, 271. Speldhurst church, built by the Duke of Orleans, 229. Spelmonden, manor now a farm-house, 127. Spenser, the Thames described by, 2. Spielman, Sir John, mills established by, 28. Spring Grove, near Wye , 1 5 J. Sprott, story from the Chronicles of, 31. Squerries Park, nearWesterham, iij. Standen, old timbered house in, 129. Stane Street, the, course of, traced, ij8; passing through Hardres parish, 220 ; direction of its branches, J05 ; descending to Bignor, J2t; Field Place on, 334; ter- mini of, ih. ; Roman entrenchment, mark- ing its S.W. course, 3?;. Stanhope, Dr., buried in Lewisham church, 19- Stanmer Park, near Brighton, 259. Stanstead Park, 1666 acres of forest, J22. Staplehurst, railway station, church with curiously ornamented door, 1 27. Starkeys, mansion of the, in Kent, 74. Steamers : from London Bridge to ]Margate, I ; from Hungerford Pier to Gravesend, to Greenwich, Blackwall, and AV'oolwich, ib. ; touching at Blackwall, 11 ; from Strood to Sheemess, 56. Stede Hall, in Kent, 94. Stephen, King, nunnery founded by, 32 ; Faversham abbey ftjunded by, 66. St. Stephen's church, near Canterbury, Arch- bishop Baldwin's College, history of the manor, 188. Steyniiig, legend of St. Cuthman, grant to F&arap abbey, 541 ; St. Cuthnif.n's church, old gabled house, retiring of the sea from, 342- Stilicho, fortifications of, at Richborough, 206. Stockbury church, its cai-vings, 6j. Stoke, North and South, in Sussex, British canoes dug up, 304. Down, circular excavations at the foot of, 321, 322. Stonar, the site of, 2C59. Stone, the church of, described, its antiquity, 14. , Brito-Roman altar in the vicarage, 250. Stone End, in Sussex, St. Crispin's tomb in, 252. Stone-grave Field, 7;. Stonewell Park, near Chiddingstone, 117. Stour, the, a source of, 9; ; railway passing through the valley of, 152 ; its pike, 153 ; TAi'PlNGTON. island formed by, at Canterbury, 159; re- ligious house on, 186; mouth of, 192; windings of, below Sandwich, 203 ; path skirting, 206 ; ruined town on the bank of, 209. Stour, the Lesser, places named from, 217; navigation, skirmish fought on, 219. Stopham, interesting church at, 335. Stowting church, Perpendicular, glass in, 138; skeletons found near, 139. Stratford, the abbey of, its works on the Thames, 12. Street Place, hiding-place in, 258. Well, spring at, 95. Strombolo, or Stromballen, found on the coast of Sussex, 263. Strood, a railway station, history of the church and manor, }} ; coaches from, to Canterbury, 61. Studfall castle, a castrum near Lymne. de- scribed, 137; causes of its injuries, 138. Sturry, road from, to Heme Bay, view from the hill, 189 ; chiirch and manor, 191. Sugarloaf Hill, near Folkestone, 141. Sullington, in Sussex, 340. Summerley, Felix, excursion to Erith de- scribed by, 13 ; view from Plumstead church, 2;. Suudridge church. Place forfeited in Maiy's reign, 112. .Sussex, extent and history, xix; antiquities, xxii ; produce and manufactures, xxiv ; geology and traveller's view, xxviii ; ske- leton tours, XXXV ; iron-furnaces of, 228- 23;; martello towers, 252; peculiar use of its iron, 255 ; picture of life in, in old times, 257, 258 ; carp and the golden pippin intro- duced into, 258 ; first iron cannon cast in, 278 ; the calculator of, ib. ; popular sayings, 280 ; figs introduced into, 296, 297 ; ety- mology of the termination " ing,' ' 298 ; ironstone fields in, 327 ; pedestrian excur- sions in, 329 ; meaning of brook, 336 ; ironstone of, 343. Sutton, Norman church at, manor, 215. Sutton-at-IIone, its church, 29. Sutton Barn, Roman remains at, 63. Sutton Hill, view from, 32;. Sutton Place, history of, 29. Sutton Valence, ruins of a castle at, iji. Surrenden Dering, fine views from, 131 ; the Dering family, 132. Swale, the, dividing Sheppey from the main- land, 19 ; navigable in old times, 58. Swanborough, old fann-house in Sussex, 274. Suanscombe, the village of, 14 ; early tradi- tions connected with, 30 ; architecture, history of the church, 31. Swingfield Minnis, excursion to. Hospitallers' preceptory, 142. Tankerton Tower, near Whitstable, 187. Tappington, old manor-house of, 220. INDEX. 377 TARRING, Tarring, church with fine spire, archiepisco- pal palace, 296; fig orchard, 297. Telegraph, submarine, the first undertaken, i;o. Templars, Knights, manor and preceptory of , at Strood, jj; commandery of, at Swing- field Minnis, 142; grant ofWilliam Peve- relle to, 224 ; grant of Sliipley church to, 265 ; grant of Sompting, 295. Temple, Sir William, his school and tutor, 121. Tenham, its fmit gardens, 66. Tenterden, road to, church with fine tower, 129 ; legend of its building, district of, ijo. Teston, bridge over the Medway at, 126. Tevington, near Eastbourne, 282. Thames, the, steamers on, i ; navigation of, I, 2; docks, ;; joined by the Lea, 11; ancient embankments raising its level, 12 ; Fiddler's IJeach, 14; Dod's driftway, 16; its width and depth at Gravesend, I'j ; forded by Aulus Plautins, 18 ; oyster fisheries, ib.; floating light at its mouth, ig; breadth of tideway at its mouth, ib. ; joined by the Dareut, 27. Thanet, the Isle of, country described, 194 ; customs of the people, 19; ; meeting of Augustine and Ethelbert, ib. ; view from the hills of, 196; highest ground in, 199. Tlianet, the Earls of, burial-place of, 61 ; their cradle, 244. Thanington, church of, rude Early English, 158. Theobald, birthplace of, 6j. Thomas, St., well, in Canterbury, 179. Thorne, near I'amsgate, 197. , story from the Clu'onicles of, jr. Thornhill, Sir .lames, ceilings at Greenwich painted by, 7, 8. , Lady Joanna, charity scliool of, 15J. Three Bridges, branch railways from, 254. Thunor's Leap, in Thanet, 194. Thurnham Castle, built of rough flint, 91. Ticehurst, village and church, old houses, origin of the name, 2jo. Tilbury, fortifications at, 16, 17. rilgate Forest, a portion of Worth, rare lichen in, 254, 255. Tillingham, the, share of, in forming Rye harbour, 248. Tillington church, near Petworth, J50. Tindal, Nicholas, burial-place of, 9, Tong Castle, its site, Saxon traditions of, 65. Torrington, Lord, sea-fight of, 284. Tortington church and priory, J04. Tovil, a hamlet near Maidstone, 82. Treyford, barrows at, ;22. Trinity Boaril, the, origin and history of, 4. Trotton, manor-house of the Camois, and church, J 52. Tufton Place, a farm-bouse, 244. Tumuli : in the Isle of Sheppey, 58 ; mound of Tong Castle, 65 ; Roman barrow, near Holborough, 74 ; conical hillock near Ad- dington, 89 ; large unexplored, at Ware [_Kent 4' Sussex.^ VINEYARD. Street, 91 ; near Folkestone, 141 ; Julaber's grave, 155 ; onChartham Downs, i;8; two at Hackendown Banks, 201 ; in Bishops- bourne, 219; on Barham Downs, 221. Tumuli in Sussex .- on the South Downs, 274 ; on the Downs near Beachy Head, 284 ; bar- rows in Kingly Bottom, j2i ; the Devil's Jumps, J 22 ; on Bury Hill, 526. Tunliridge, situation of the town, grammar school, church, 122; castle described, his- tory of its lords, 1 13 ; country from, to Paddock's AVood, 124. Wells, season for, situation of, 22; ; dis- covery and establishment of, apochrj-phal origin of the spring, 226; celebrities of, commons and rocks, 227 ; drives from, 228 ; excursions from, 2jo. Tunifurd, ruined mansion at, i-;8. Tunnel, the Abbot's Cliff, near Dover, 14J ; piercing the South Downs, 259. Tunstall church, monuments in, 64. Turner's Hill, in Sussex, 527. Twinebam, church Ijuilt of brick in, 257. Twysden, Sir Roger, residence, burial-place of, 125. T}-e House, 256. Tyler, Wat, his encampment on Blackheath, 20 ; the village of, 28. u. Uckfield, scenery of, 278. Udimore, traditionary etymology of, 24J. Up Park, beech-trees" in, J22. Up-\\'altham, church, pictm'esque country, 32J. Upchurch, its architecture and history, 61 ; marshes, Roman' potteries, 62. Upnor Castle, date of its erection, 57. Upper Hardres, chiuxh, Early English, 219. Upper AValmer, church, Duke's House in, 214. Ursula Lodge, 27. V. 'Vagniaca;, possible site of, 78. ■\^ale, Mascall, near North Cray, 26. Vanbrugh, Sir John, dining-hall decorated by, 7 ; houses built by, on Blackheath, 20. Vandevelde, fine picture of the " Golden Devil" by, 11. ■Vandyke, liis summer residence in England, Venetians, the, inventors of the frigate, 5. Verdley Castle, ruins near Farnhurst, J52. Viaduct, of Ford Valley, 139 ; over the Ouse, 256. Victualling Offices, at Deptford, 4. Vineyard of Chart, iji. INDEX. WADHURST. w. Wadhurst, iron grave-slabs in the church- yard, 2JO. AVakeluirst Place, rebuilt by a Culpeper in 1590, 255. Waldershare Park, fine view from, 22}. Waldron, in Sussex, l-i<) ; old niansion-liouses in the jmrish of, jjo- Waller, the beeches of Penshurst, 121. Waller, his siege of Arundel, 299 ; of Chi- chester, J06 ; castles destroyed by, 244. Walloons, settling in Sussex, 250. Walmer, lower and upper towns, 210; hos- pital, barracks, historical memorials, 211. Walpole, Horace, first visit of, to Greenwich, 9 ; his description of Leeds Castle, 91, 92 ; Linton Place described by, 95 ; des- cribes Knole, 106; the park, 109; "pil- grimage" to Summer Hill, 124; his praise of J\lereworth, 12;, 126; "daughter of Strawberry," 218 ; voyage of discove:-y in Sussex, 2J_?; visit to Hurstmoncoux, 286. Wantsome, strait between the mainland and 'I'hanet, 192; change in the, since Bede's time, 194. ^Varbleton, ruins of an Augustinian priory, church, no- Ware Street, tumulus at, gr. Warham, Archbisho)i, briilge erected by, 54 ; palace rebuilt b,y, 114; gift of, to Krasmus, ij; ; monument of, in Canterbury, 169. Warlewast, Bp., foundation of, at Bosham, Warner, Bp., hospital founded by, 99. Wamham Court, In Sussex, large pond near, Warrenes, Pe, the architecture of, 267 ; coffins and tombs, 269, 270. Washington, in Sussex, 540. Watering-places, tbe two most ancient in England, 225. ^Vateringbur}^ village rebuilt, church with monument of Sir Oliver Styh-, 125. Watling Street, crossing Blackheath, 20; battle fought by the Britons on, 26; name given to, at Dartford, 27 ; opening into the valley of the Darent, jo ; railroad follow- ing the line of, ji ; crossing the Medway, 3;; pilgrim murdered on, j8; crossing Cobliam Park, 54 ; road to Canterbury fol- lowing, 61 ; site of Tong Castle on, 65 ; royal "villa" on, 66; direction of, from Blackheath, 102 ; bordering the sea, 208 ; routes of its two branches, 217; on Bar- ham Downs, 220. AVatson, George, the Sussex calculator, birth- place of, 278. Weal<i, the, of Kent described, 129; fossils of, 255; old families in, ironstone of, 345. Weaver, date fixed by, for Erith rectory, I?. AVeldon, Sir Anthony, his monument in Swanscombe church, }i. 1 Hospitallers' pre- of Richard de la WILMINGTON. Well, ruined chapel of, 218. AVell lluuse, near Nortbiam, 243. Welling, uiide derivalur, 24. Wellington, the Duke of, scene of his death, 2ir ; memorial of, at firighton, 26t. Werburgh, St., of Mercia, the prayers of, 48. West, alto-relievos by, at Greenwich, 7. Dean, old parsonage house at, 281. Deati Park, Roman remains found in, SSi- Farlcigh, in Kent, 126. Griiistead fluirch, wooden porch, House visited by Pope, 264, 26;. Hampnett, Pearly English church, Place, now a poors-house, 517- Hoathly, iron grave-slabs at, mass of nicely poised rock near, 255. , or Town, Mailing, I Peckham, Knigbls ceptory In, 125. Wittering, miracle Wycb, church, J17. Westfield church, in Sussex, 242. Westham, church built at different periods, 297. Westenhanger, excursion from, fortified manor, old walnut-trees, IJ4; its history, Rosamond's tower, ij; ; Roman road pass- ing, ij8. Westwell, fine stained glass in the church, witchcraft story connected with, 154. White, Gilbert, village in Sussex frequented by, 27J. Hart Hill, in Sussex, view from, 248. Hawk Hill, near Brighton, camp on, 26^. Horse Wood, 89. AVbitebait, a distinct species, 11. Wliitleychurch, E. E., with central tower, 34J. Whitstable, its oyster fishery, 19, 187. Wigsell, in Sussex, 254. Wilfred, monastery founded by, J15. Willement, Thomas, church repaired and decorated by, 70 ; stained glass by, in Bromley church, 99; windows in West- well church releaded by, 154; windows in a chapel in Canterbury, 18?; window in Ash church, 208; memorial window at Cbichester, 310. Willesborough church, stone seats in, 1J3. William, .St., of Rochester, story of, j8. of Wykeham, buildings of, at Leeds castle, 9J ; canonry, 2J9. of Sens, architect of Canterbury Cathe- dral, 161 ; his fall from the clerestory wall, 165. I., landing of, at Pevensey, 290, 291. 111., house in Kent visited by, 201. • and Mary, associated with Greenwich, 6. IV., bust given by, to Greenwich Hos- l)ital, 9. Wilmington, its cherry-gardens, its ancient proprietors, 28. Wilmington, alien priory at, Well Holes, " Long Alan " of, 282. INDEX. 379 WINCnELSEA. AViiichelsea, site of Old, inundations, plan of New, 245 ; its ancient trade and prosperity, passages of liislor.f, 246; cburch of St. Thomas, 246, 247 ; the Friary, gates, 247 ; narrow escape of Edward I. in, 248. , estate of the Earls of, 154. Windham, church and college at, story of ^ penance connected with, 209. Wisborough Green, consecrated to Woden, US- Wiston, fine scenery of the parish. House Elizabethan, historj' of the Shirleys, J40 ; Shirley nioiniments in the church, 541. Withersden, St. Eustace's Well at, 15J. Withyam, church struck by lightning at, Dorset monuments, 328. Woden sborough, Saxon sepulchral remains found at, 2og. Wolf, General, grave of, 10; residence on Blackheath, 20 ; birthplace, 11;. Wolsey, Cardinal, his apjilication of the revenues of Lesnes Abbey, 25. Wolstanbury Hill, camp on, 259. Womenswould, in Kent, 222. Woodchiirch, in the AVeald of Sussex, church E. E., 25}. . , Simon de, " Malleus Scotoruni," grave of, 25J. AVoodgate railway station, near Bognor, 304. AVoodstuclv Park, 64. Woolbeding. in Sussex, 552. AVoollet, the engraver, birthplace of, 79. Woolwich, transit from London to, i ; ships built at, II ; remarkable objects to be seen at, 12; public buildings, 22-24. Wootton Court, scat of Sir Egerton Brydges, 225. Warmsell Churcli, in Kent, 94 YOKES. Worth, church, the only perfect example of Anglo-Saxon building, probable date of, 254 ; forest, the landscape in, sandstone of, 255. Worthing, dates its importance since 1800, 294 ; excursions from, 296. Wotton, Sir Henry, birthplace of, i^i. WouUlhaiu, church and village, 74. AVreii, Sir Christopher, designs of, for Green- wich, 6, 7 ; a design of, followed in the Royal Naval School, 115; houses in Chi- chester attributed to, iij. AVrinsted Court, in Kent, 94. AV'rotham, once the site of an archiepiscopal palace, view from. Hill, iir. Wyatt, Sir Henry, date of his succession to Allington, 83. , Sir Thomas, the poet, birthplace of, 84 ; grave, 85. , Sir Thomas, his attack on Cowling Castle, jj ; grant of Aylesford Friary to, 76 ; place of the breaking out of his rebel- lion, 79 ; manors of, 84. Wych, Uichard de la, miracle of, 317. Wye, church and college of, 15J. Yalding, situation of, 124. Yaptoii, in Sussex, J04. Yarrell, Mr., decision of, with regard whitebait, 11. Yenlade, a mouth of the Wantsome, 194. Yew-tree, large, at Bradbourne, 1J4; in Crowhurst churchyard, 241 ; 20 feet in girth, in Wilmingiun churchyard, 282; group, at Bowhill, }ii. Yokes Court, in Kent, 126. to THE END. LOHPON: FlUNTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFOKD STREET, AND CUAEIKG CROSS. MURRAY^S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 1858. The great advantage of this medium of Advertising over all others for those who are desirous of communicating infiirmation to Travellers can scarcely be questioned, as it, enables Steam, Railway, and other Public Companies, Landlords of Inns, Tradesmen, and others, to bring under the immediate notice of the great mass of English and American Tourists who resort to France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Russia, the East, and other parts of the world every Season, in the most direct way, the various merits of their Railways, Steamers, Hotels, Taverns, Articles of Merchandise, Works of Art, and such other infurniation as they may desire to make known. Instead of being limited to the casual publicity of a Daily, Weekly, or Monthly Periodical, The Handbook Advertiser has the additional merit of being displaj'ed, for the entire year, in a permanent work of interest and of perpetual reference by the very class of persons for whom it is specially intended. Annual Circulation, 12,000. Advertisements must be paid in advance and sent to the Publisher's hy2Qth of April in each year. The Charges are— A Page, 4Z. Half-page, 2J. 2s. A Column, 2i.2«. Haifa Column, IJ. 2s. INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. GERMANY. Berlin. — Harsch's Glass Wai-ehouse .13 Bonn. — Golden Star Hotel . . .19 Carlsbad. — Wolf's Glass Manufactory 11 Cologne. — Farina's Eau de Coloi,aie . 10 Dresden. — Magazine of Fine Arts .11 Frankfort. — Bing's Manufactory . 8 Tacchi's Glass Warehouse 9 Roman Emperor Hotel. 12 Bohler's Manufactory of Staghorn . . . IG, 17 Munich. — Wimmer's Magazine . . 7 Prague and Vienna. — Ilofmann's Glass Manufactory 11 Vienna. — Lobmeyr's Glass Manufactory 12 FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, & ITALY. BuiENZ. — Grossraaun's Wood Sculpture Florence. — Bianobini's Mosaic Leghorn. — Micali's Marble Works Lucerne. — English Hotel . Nice. — How's English Warehouse Lattes, General Agent Plsa. — Huguet and Van Lint, Sculptors Veytaux. — Pension Masson . . Zurich. — Hotel Belle Vue . Kerez, Chemist . ENGLAND. Custom House Agents — McCracken Cary's Telescope Mai/, 1858. 6 6 11 21 7 7 6 31 24 24 2 12 Mechl's Dressing Cases Argus Life Assurance . National Bank of Scotland Thimm, Foreign Bookseller Spiers' Ornamental Manufactures Black's Guide Books . . Passport .Agency Office Royal Insurance Office . Pelican Life Insurance London and Westminster Bank Locock's Pulmonic Wafers Athenaeum .... Blackwood's Maps . Lavin's Cornish Museum Sir Walter Scott's Works . Southgate's Portmanteaus . South-Eastern Railway . Society of Swiss Couriers . Tennant, Geologist Heal's Bedsteads , i Stanford, Mapseller Rowland's Perfumery Galignani's Paris Guide Von Wegnern, German Teache Works on the Fine Arts . Sunset any Hour . . Mudie's Library Passport Agency Office Steam to California, &c. Railway Guide-books . . Lee and Carter's Guide Depot 6 . 12 . 13 . 14 . 14 . 14 . 15 . 18 . 20 . 21 . 21 . 22 . 22 . 23 . 24 . 25 . 26 . 27 . 28 . 28 . 29 . 30 . 31 . 31 . 31 . 32 . 33 . 33 .33 . 33 34, 35 . 36 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. BRITISH CUSTOMS DUTIES. London, January 1, 1858. MESSRS. J. & R. MCCRACKEN, 7, OLD JEWRY, LONDON, IMPORTERS OF FOREIGN WINES, And Agents to Messrs. A. DELGADO and SON, of Cadiz, AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY, AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART, Sole Agents of Mr. J. M. FARINA, vis-a-vis la Place Juliers, Cologne, And Agents generally for the Reception and Shipment of ^Y'orks of Art, Baggage, &c., FROM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD, Return their sincere acknowledgments to | British Artists resident abroad, having the Nobility and Gentry for the liberal pa- ! occasion to send home their works for Ex- tronage liitherto confeiTed on them. They hope, by THK MODERATION OF THEIR CHARGES, and their imremitting care in passing through the CUSTOM-HOUSE Pro- perty confided to thern, to merit a conti- nuance of the favours they have heretofore hibition, or to be passed by the Academy, will find it advantageous to address them to the care of Messrs. J. & R. M'C, whose appointment enables them to offer every facility. Parties favouring J. & R. M'C. with Con- enjoyed. Their establishment comprises DRY j signments are requested to be particular AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept durhig the Owner's absence, at most modei'ate rates of rent. J. & R. M'C. undertake to execute Commis- sions for the purchase of Pictures, Statuary in Marble and Alabaster, Bronzes, &c., being in having the Bills of Lading sent to them DIRECr by post, and also to forward their Keys with the Packages, as all Goods MUST BE EXAMINED immediately on arrival. J. & R. M'C. keep Marsala Wines of first quality, also Port, and Messrs. A. Delgado and Son's Sherry and Amontillado Wines ; indirect correspondence with Artists, Agents, I and are general Importers of French and and Bankers throughout the Continent. ' other Foreign Wines. Packages sent, by Steamers or othervrise, to Southampton and Liverpool, also attended to; hut all Letters of Adoice and Bills of Lading to be addressed to 1, Old Jewry, London. LIST OF DUTIES NOW PAYABLE IN LONDON UPON THE IMPORTATION OF WORKS OF ART, CURIOSITIES, ETC., FROM THE CONTINENT. The following i^rticles are AIiZi F^^SB OF BTTTT. Alabaster and Maeble. Amber, JIanufactures of. Anchovies. Agates and Cornelians, unset. Books, of editions printed prior to 1801. Bronze Works of Art (antiques and ori- ginal works only). Bullion, Coins and Medals of all kinds, and battered Plate. Cambrics, Lawns, Damask and Diapers of Linen, or Linen and Cotton. Cameos, 7iot set. Carriages of all sorts. Catlings, and Harp Strings, silvered or not. Casts of Busts, Statues, or Figures. Coral, whole, polished, unpolished, and fragments. Cotton, Manufactures of, «o? being articles wholly or in part made up. Diamonds, Emeralds, Pearls, and other Precious Stones, not set. Flower Roots. Frames for Pictures, Prints, Drawings, and Mirrors. Furs and Skins, and Articles thereof. Glass, all Plate, Cast or Rolled Glass. Paintings on Cilass. Beads and Bugles. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. nCcCRACSSM-'S IiIST Glass Bottles, Wine Glasses, ;ind Tumblers, and all white flint and common green- glass goods, not being cut or orna- mented. Linen Manufactures, not being articles •wholly or in part made up. Lay Figures, imported by British Artists for their own use. Magna Grecia Ware, and Antique Earthen Vases. Manuscripts. Maps and Charts, and parts thereof. Mineral Waters. Models of Cork and Wood. Olites and Olive Oil. On the folloviringr ilrticles the Suty is 5 per cent, ad valorem. or 3>xrTIES— continued. Painters' Colours, Brushes, Pencils, and Crayons. Pictures. Plants and Trees, alive. Seeds. Sausages. Specimens of Natural History, Minerals, Fossils, and Ores. Stone, all Sculpture and -Articles of Stone, Alabaster, and Slarble. Sulphur Impressions, or Casts. Telescopes. Tiles. Vases, Ancient, not of Stone or Marble. Cashmere Shawls, and all Articles of Goats' Hair or Wool. Cotton Articles, wholly or in part made up. Linen Articles, wholly or in part made up. Woollen Articles, wholly or in part made up. On the following^ Articles the 3>uty is lO per cent, ad valorem. Boxes of all sorts. Egyptian, and all other Antiquities. Embroidery and Needlework. Furniture of all kinds. Jewellery, and all Jewels set. Lace made by hand. Mosaic, small Ornaments for Jewellery. Musical Instruments, excepting Musical Boxes, Brass Instruments, Pianos, and Accordions. ScAGLiOLA Tables. ARaUEBUSADE WaTER .... Beads of Coral ..... Crystal, Jet, and Mock Pearl . , Books, of editions printed in and since 1 SOI . imported under International Treaties of Copyright (Pirated Editiuns of Eni^lish U'orks, of wliich tlie Copyright exists totally proliibited.) English, reimported (unless declared that no Drawback was claimed on Export) Brocade of Gold and Silver Bronze, 1 Brass, and > all Manufactures of Copper, J Carpets and Rugs (woollen) Coral Negligees China, Porcelain, and Earthenware, all Clocks, not exceeding the value of bs. each . the gallon £1 the Ih. 1 6 ditto 2 the cut. 1 10 ditto 15 England, k the lb. U ditto 5 the cwt. 10 the square yard the lb. . the civt. . the dozen exceeding 5«., and not exceeding the value of 12«. Qid. each ditto •— ^^ exceeding \'2s. Qd., and not exceeding the value of 3/. each each exceeding 3/., and not exceeding the value of 101. . ditto exceeding 10/. value .... ditto Cigars and Tobacco, manufactured (3 lbs. only allowed in a passenger's baggage, and 5 per cent, additional) . . the lb. Tobacco, unmanufactured (with 5 per cent, additional on the Duty) ditto (N.B.- — Unmanufactured Tobacco cannot be imported in less quantity than 300 lbs., or Cigars 80 lbs. in a Pack:u;e ; but small quantities are allowed for Private Use on declaration, and payment of a Fine of Is. (id. per lb. in addition to the Duty.) Coffee ....... the lb. Confectionery, Sweetmeats and Succades . . . ditto Cordials and Lisueurs . . . . .the gallon Curtains, embroidered on Muslin or Net, called Swiss Curtains the lb. Eau de Cologne, in long flasks .... the flask in any other description of bottles . . the gallon 10 4 8 10 9 3 1 8 B MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. IV[cCRACB:x:]n''S XiIST of duties— continued. Flowers, Artificial, the cubic foot as packed . , . . £0 12 Glass, Flint, Cut, Coloured, and Fancy Ornamental Glass, of whatever kind ...... the cnrt. 10 Gloves, of Leather (and 5 per cent, additional) . the dozen pair 3 6 LAcauEKED and Japanned Wares . . . .the cwt. 10 JIaccaroni and Vermicelli ..... ditto 010 Naples Soap ...... ditto 008 Perfcmkry . . . . . . the lb. 2 Perfumed Spirits . . . . . , the gallon 10 Paper hangings, Flock Paper, and Paper printed, painted, or stained <//<" /ft. 3 Pianofortes, horizontal grand .... each 300 upright and square .... ditto 200 Plate, of Gold ..... the oz. troy 1 1 of Silver, gilt or ungilt .... ditto 018 Prints and Drawings, single or bound, plain or coloured . the /b. S Silk, Millinery, Turbans or Caps .... each 036 Hats or Bonnets .... ditto 070 Dresses ..... ditto 1 10 Hangings, and other Manufactures of Silk . the lOOl. value 15 Velvets, plain or figured .... the lb. ^ Tea ....... ditto 015 Toys and Turnery . .... the cubic foot 004 Wine in Casks or Bottles (in bottles 6 to the gal., & 5 percent, add.) the gal. 5 6 Spirits in Cask or Bottle ..... ditto lo No Cask can be imported of less contents than 24 Gallons. THEIR PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS ARE AT CALAIS Messrs. Ciiartier, Mout, Sc Vogue. Messrs. Isaac Vftal & Fils. BOULOGNE S. M. . . Messr.s.CHAKTiER,MoRy,& Vogue. Mr.H.SiRE. Mr.C.QuETTiEK. , ]\Ir. M. Chrnue, Packer, Paie Croix Petits Chajups, No. 24. PARIS J Mr. .J. Kleinfelder, .38, Rue Lafayette. Im. M. Hofmann, 58, Rue Hauteville. HAVRE Messrs. P. r)E\OT & Co. HONFLEUR Mr. J. Wagneu. MARSFILLFS -J ^^'^^■'^''s- Horace Bouchet & Co. Messrs. Claude Clkrc & Co. ^ I Mr. Philigret, 8, Rue SuEfreu. BAGNERES DE BI-, GORRE (Hautes J. Mr. Leon Geruzet, Marble Works. Pyrenees) ) PAiJ Mr. Merillon Aine. KnTfnFATTY ^ '^^'"' I^EON Geruzet, 44, AUdes de Toumy. "" ^ ^ jjj. -^^^^ Sansot, FfLS, Hotel des Princes et de la Paix. GIBRALTAR Messrs. Archbold, Johnston, & Powers. Messrs. Turner k Co. LLSBON Mr. Arthur Van Zeller, Renin. & Orient. St. Nav. Co.'s Offices. SFVILI E i ^^^' •^°^''^^' ^- Williams, British Vice-Consulate. ■' \ r>on Juan Anto. Bai lly. MALAGA Mr. W. P. Marks, British Consul. f^iprj' ( Messrs. A. Lacroix & Co., British Consulate. Mr. T. W. How. ^ ( Messrs. Avigdor AiNfi & Fils. Mr. Cii. Giordan. rv^nx ( Messrs. GiBBS & Co. Sig. G. Loleo, Croce di Malta. ^ '^^ I Mr. Brown, Jun., British Vice-Consul. Gio. Vionolo & Fig". TUTT » -vr i Messrs. Buffet & Beruto, Piazzale di S. Sepolcro, No. 3176. "^'"^'^ \ Messrs. B.iambilla. CARRARA Sig. F. Bienaijie, Sculptor. Mr. Vincenzo LrvY, Sculptor. {Messrs. W. Maobean & Co. Messrs. Henderson Brothers. Messrs. Thomas Pate & Sons. Messrs. Maquay, Pakenham, S: Smtth. Messrs. GiAco. Micali & FiGo. Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. Mr. M. Ristori. Mr. Joseph Guano." Messrs. G. Galliani & Co. Mr. Ulisse Cotkeman. PISA Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. I Messrs. EMMle. Fenzi & Co. Messrs. Plowden & French. Messrs. Maqday & Pakenham. Mr. E. Gooddan. Mr. J. Tough. Messrs. Nesti, Ciardi, & Co. Mr. Ant° pi Luigi Piacenti. Mr. S. Lowe. Mr. Gaeto. Bianchini, Mosaic AVorker, opposite '■ '^^^^'^'■^'^'^ ' the Capella de' Medici. P. Bazzanti & Fig., Sculptors, Lungo lAriii). Heirs of F. L. PrsANi, Sculptor, No. I, sul Prato. M«ssrs. Fiii. Pacetti, Picture-frame Makers, Via deli'alugio. Sig. Caklo NocciOLi. Sig. LuiGi Ramacci. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. MESSRS. J. & R. MCCRACKEN'S CORRESPONDENTS-coKtinwed. VOVriiRRA Sig. Otto. Callaj, and llessrs. G. Cuerici & Fici. • BOLOGNA Mr. G. B. Renoli. Sig. L. Gai.li. ANCOSA Messrs. Moore, Merellet, & Co. Messrs. Torlonia & Co. Messrs. Freeborn & Co. Messrs. Mac- P^-jp J BEAN & Co. Messrs. Plowden, Cholmelet, & Co. Messrs. Pa- < kenham, Hooker, & Co. Mr. Edward Trebbi. Mr. Lligi >■ BitANCHiNi, at the English College. CIVITA VECCHIA . Messrs. 1x)WE Brothers, British Vice Consulate. Mr. T. Abata. NAPLES Messrs. Igguldkn & Co. Messrs. W.J. Tukxer & Co. PALKRMO Messrs. Prior, Tl-rneb, & Thomas. M ESSINA Messrs. Cailler & Co. CORFU Mr. J. W. Taylor. ALEXANDRIA Messrs. Briggs & Co. CONSTANTINOPLE Messrs. C. & E. Grace. Mr. Edward Lafontaine. I Mr. Emanuel Zammit. Messrs. Josh. ] jarmanin k. Sons, 45, Strada MALTA < Levaute, Mosaic Workers. Mr. Fortunato Testa. 92, Strada S'a ' Lucia. Mr ssvs. L. Ved. L)e Cesakk & Figli. Mr. L. FbajsCalakza. SJIYRNA Messrs. Hansos & Co. BEYROUT Mr. Henry Heald. ArHENS, PlRiEUS Mr. J. J. Bccherer. SYRA Mr. A\'ilkixson, British ConsuL I Messrs. Freres Schielin. VENICE ■! Messrs. S. & A. Blumenthal S: Co. t Mr. ].,. BovAUDi, Campo S. Fanliuo, No. 2000, rosso. TRIESTE Messrs. Moore & Co. OSTENO Messrs. Bach & Co. Mr. R. St. Amour. GHENT Mr. J. Le Buyser, Dealer ui Antiquities, Marche au Beurre, 21. BRUSSELS A VT\iinrT>p i Messrs. F. Mack & Co., Kipdorp, No. 1149. AA 1 w t.nf t Mr. P. Van Zeebroeck, Picture J )ealer, &c.. Rue des Recollets, 2076. TJAi'TE-T-nAM 5 M^ssrs. Preston & Co. Messrs. S. A. Le\ ino & Co. itui iii,i.i<Aivi I Messrs. Boutmy & Co. Messrs. C Hemmann & Co. PAT CiPf^K i ^^^- "^' ^^* Fakixa, vis-ii-vis la Place Juliers. Messrs. G™e. TiL5!Ea CUljUtiiN t ^ j^ ^^^_ jj|._ ^i_ggjjj Heimann, 29, Bishofsgartenstrassf. MAYENCE Mr. G. L. Kay.seb, E.xpediteur. Mr. W. K>u.s.smann, Cabinet Maker. / Mr. P. A. '1'a(;chi's SuC(;essor, Glass Manufacturer, Zeil. FRANKFORT 0. M. < Alessis. Bing, Jun., & Co. Mr. F. Bohler, Zeil D, 17. l Ml G. A. ZiPF, Ross Markt. HFIDELBERG Mr. Ph. Zimmermann. Mr. M. Lieeer. MANNHEIM Mr. Dinkelsj-eil. Blessrs. Ey.ssen & Claus. I Mr. IIy. Wimmer, Prmtseller, Promenade St. No. 12. Messrs. May MUNICH < S; Widmayer, Priutsellers. Messrs. L. Neghioli it Co. Heirs [ of Seb. Pichler. „..__,,. _„T,^ ( Mr. Paolo Galimberti, at the Red Horse, Dealer in Antiquities. IN UKhMKtKtr ^ jjj._ jQjij. co^.,,^j, Qi^oiF, Banker and Forwarding Agent. FURTH Mr. A. Pickert. „.„,., j Messrs. Jean Preiswerk & Fils., Mr. Bischoff de St. Alban. BAbLb. ^ Messrs. Schkewlin & Co. Mr. Benoit La Roche. BERNE Mr. Albei;! Trumpy. GENEVA Messrs. Aug. Snell & Strasse. LAUSANNE Mr. L. Longchamfs. INTERLACKEN Mr. J. Gkossmakn. Mr. Clement Sesti. CONSTANCE ■» SCHAFFHAUsEN .. ( Messrs. Zollikoffer & Hoz. WALDSHUr •' HAMBURG Messrs.ScHAAR&CLAUSS. Mr.G.F.RoPE. r>D Ar-TTi.^ ) Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stern. I'KAUU K, ^ ^jj. p CzERMAK. ditto. Mr. A. V. Lebeda, Gun Maker. nATjT CD ATI i Mr. '1'homas Wolf, Glass Manufacturer. CARLbBAl) ^ jyj^ ^,^i,j^ JC.NOLL, au Lion Blanc. MARIENBAD Mr. J. T. Adler, Glass JIanulacturcr. „ „ . ( Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, am Liigeck, No. 768. •^ -^ jli. j(jg_ Lobmeyr, Glass Manufacturer, 940, Karnmer Strasse. I Jlessrs. Schicklek, Brothers. BERLIN <[ M r. Lion M. Cohn, Comni"'. Expediteur. ( Messrs. 0. Harsch &Co., Glass Manufacturers, 67, Unter den Linden. {Messrs. H. \V. Bas.senge & Co. Mr. C. Ieichert, Royal Porce- lain Manufactoi.v Depot. Mr. J. Kreiss, Glass Manufacturer. Madame Helena \V'olfsohn, Schossergasse, No. 5. NEW YORK Messrs. Wilbur & Price. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. FLORENCE. G. B I A N C H I N I, MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES' ORNAMENTS OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC, Wo. 484:4=, VIA 1I>E» STKHI, Opposite the lioyal Chapel of the Medici, TNVITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables and other Ornaments executed to any Design. G. BiANCHixi's Agents in England are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry, London. BRIENZ — INTERLACKEN. J. GHOSSMANN, SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTUEEE OF SWISS WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, AT IM-TE^S.ACiSEK'. TILS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof, where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the aljove objects to be ound in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry. PISA. HUaUET AND YAN LINT, SCULPTORS IN MARBLE AND ALABASTER, Xiung' Arno, near the Tre Sonzelle. rpHE oldest established house in Pisa, where may be found the best assortment -*- of Models of the Duomo, Baptistry, and Tower. Also Figures and other local objects illustrative of the Agriculture and Customs of the country, executed in the highest style of art. Their extensive Show Rooms are always open to Visitors. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry, London. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. NICE. ENGLISH WAREHOUSE. T. W. HOW, WINE MERCHANT, GROCER, &c., Quai du Jardin des Flantes, (Two doors from the Hotel de France), AVines and Teas of the choicest qualities. Bass's and Allsopp's Pale and Burton Ales, Stout, Porter, &c. Lemann's Biscuits, Eng- lish Cheese, York Hams, Pickles, Sauces, and a variety of other condiments and articles too numerous to mention. Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'Ckaciven, 7, Old Jewry. NICE F. LATTES, Uear the Pont Neuf, GENERAL AGENT, AND AGENT FOR LETTING FURNISHED APARTMENTS. Letters addressed as above from parties requiring anj' information respecting Apart- ments, &c., will meet with immediate at- tention. MUNICH. HENRY WIMMEE, SUCCESSOR TO J. M. DE HERMANN, PRINT AND PICTURE SELLER TO HIS MAJESTY THE KING OF BAVARIA, ItOYAI, a»J10MESfAI5E STKASSE, A'o. 12, M.\GAZINE OF OBJECTS OF FINE ARTS, PICTURES, PRINTS, DRAWINGS, AND LITHOGRAPHS, Invites the Nobility' and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where he has always on Sale an extensive collection of Pictures by Modern Artists, Paintings on Glass and Porcelain, Miniatures, Drawings, En- gravings, and Lithographs, the latter comprising the Complete Collec- tions of the various Galleries, of which Single Cojiies may be selected. He has also on Sale all that relates to the Fine Arts. H. WIMMER undertakes to forward to England all purchases made at his Establishment, through his Correspondents, Messrs. J. & R, M'Cbacken, 7, Old Jewry, London. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. FRANKFORT O. M. BING JUN^ AND CO. ZEII., Bfo. 31, (opposite the hotel de russie,) MANUFACTORY OF ARTICLES IN STAG'S HORN. DEPOT OF DRESDEN CHINA. COPY OF THE STATUE OF ARIADNE. *^,* All kinds of Parisian Fancy Articles. Messrs. BING Jun. and Co. beg respectfully to invite the Public to visit tlieir Establishment, where they have always on show, and for sale, a most extensive Assortment of Articles in Stag's Horn, of their own manufacture ; consisting of Brooches, Ear-rings, Bracelets, Pen and Pencil Holders, Seals, Inkstands, Watch- stands, Snutf-boxes, Cigar-boxes, Whips, Walking-sticks, Knives, Card-cases, and every description of article for the Writing and Work Table, besides Vases and other ornamental objects too various to be here enumerated. Messrs. BiNG have also the finest Copies, both in Biscuit-China and Bronze, of the Statue of Ariadne, the chef-d'oeuvre of the Sculptor Dannegker, of which the original is in Bethman's Museum at Frankfort 0. M. Messrs. BiNG have likewise the Sole Depot in Frankfort of the Porcelain of the Royal Manufactory of Dresden; and at their Establishment may be seen the most splendid assortment of Figuies after the Ancient Models, ornamented with Lace-work of the most extraordinary fineness ; likewise Dinner, Dessert, and Tea Services; Plates, Vases, Candelabras, Baskets, &c. &c., in the Antique Style, ornamented with flowers in relief, and the finest paintings. Besides the above-named objects, they liave a superb assortment of Clocks, Bronzes, Porcelain, and other Fancy Objects, the productions of Germany, France, and England. DEPOT OF THE VERITABLE EAU DE COLOGNE OF JEAN MARIA FARINA, OF COLOGNE. gg» Their Correspondents in London are J. and R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. FRANKFORT O. M. P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR, (LATE FRANCIS STEIGERWALD,) zi<:ii> n, ^o. 17, IBOMEMIAH FAH(DT ^LAgg AHB (C:KTSTAIL p. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOK begs to acquaint the Tiiblic that he has become the Purchaser of Mr. F. Steigerwald's Establish- ment in this Town, for the Sale of Bohemian Fancy Cut Glass and Crystals. He has always an extensive and choice Assortment of the Newest and most Elegant Patterns of ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVTED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, BOTH WHITE AND COLOUKED, In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Articles for the Table and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of manu- facture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a continuance of the favours of the Public, which the late well-known House enjoyed in an eminent degree during a considerable number of years. P. A. Tacchi's Successor has Branch Establishments during the Season at WIESBADEN AND EMS, Where will always be found Selections of the newest Articles from his principal Establishment. His Agents in England, to whom he undertakes to forward Pur- chases made of him, are Messrs. J. & li. M'Crackek, 7, Old Jewry, London, 10 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. COLOGNE O. RHINE. JOHN MARIA FARINA (OPPOSITE THE JULICH'S PLACE), PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; TO H. M. F. W. III., KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; THE laNG OF HANOVER, ETC. ETC., OF THE ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE. fFHE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most A part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request the attention of English travellers to the foUowhig statement : — Since the first establishment of my house in 1709, there has never been any partner in the business who did not bear the name of Farina, nor has the manufacture of a second and cheaper quality of Eau de Cologne ever been attempted. Since 1828, however, several inhabitants of Cologne have entered into engagements with Italians of the name of Farina, and, by employing that name, have succeeded to a very great extent in foisting an inferior and spurious article upon the Public. But they have m this rivalry in trade not been satisfied with the mere usurpation of my name ; the concluding phrase, "opposite the Julich's I'lacel' which had so long existed my special property, was not allowed to remain in its integrity. To deceive and lead astray again those of the public who are not fully conversant with the locality and circumstances, the competition seized hold of the word " o2^posite," and more than once settled in my immediate neighbourhood, that they might avail themselves to the full extent of the phrase " opipjosite the Julich's Place." When tried before the courts, the use only of the word ^' oprposite" was forbidden, which, however, has been supplied liy the word "at" or "near," with the addition of the nvunber of their houses. It is true, another less fiagrant, but not less deceitful invention was, that several of my imitators esUiblished the sites of their manufactories in other public places of the town, to enable them to make use of the phrase " opposite Place, or Market" on their address cards or labels, speculating, with respect to the proper name "Jalich," on the carelessness or forge tfulncss of the consumer. I there- fore beg to inform all strangers visiting Cologne that my estal>lishment, which has existed since 1709, is exactly opposite the Julich's Place, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Marspfurten, No. 23; and that it may be the more easily recognised, I have put up the arms of England, Russia, &c. &c., in the front of my house. By calling the attention of the public to this notice, I hope to check that system of unposi- tion which has been so long practised towards foreigners by coachmen, valets-de-place, and others, who receive bribes from the vendors of the many spurious compounds sold under my name. A new proof of the excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact of the Jury of the Greai Exhibition in Loudon having awarded me the Prize Medal. — See the Official Statement in No. 20,934, page 6, of the ' Times' of this month. Cologne, October, 1851. J. M. FARINA, Opposite the Julicli's Place. *^,* Mtj Aijents in London are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry, by xohoiii orders are received for me. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 11 DRESDEN. MGAZINE OF ANTIQUITIES AN8 YIM. ARTS. HELENA WOLFSOim, nke MEYER, (SUCCESSOR OF L. MEYER AND SONS,) 5, SCHI.OSl§EI4«ASSE, Begs respectfully to solicit the inspection of her Establishment, where she has always on show and for sale a most extensive assortment of Old Saxon China, Old Sevres and Japan, Antique Furniture, Bronzes, Old Lace, such as Points de Bruxelles and d'Alen9on, Points de Venise, Guipure, &c. &c. Venetian, Ruby, and Painted Glass, Rock Crystal, Ivory Work, Enamels, Mosaic Work, Armour, Gobelins Tapestry, Fans, and many other remarkable and curious articles. HER CORRESPONDENTS IK ENGLAND ARE Messrs. J. & K. M'CRACKEM", 7, Old Jewry, London. WILLIAM HOFMANN, BOHEMIAN GLASS i/aNUFACTURER, TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA, Recommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold, at the same moderate prices, at both his Establishments — At Prague, Hotel Blue Star; at Vienna, 768, lugeck. Agents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry. Goods forwarded direct to England, America, ^-c. LEGHORN. CARLSBAD. THOMAS WOLF, MANUFACTURER OF niACIATII MICALI AND SON, Via Ferdinanda, No. 1230. Manufactory of Marble, Alabaster, and ' ORNAMENTAL GLASS WAKES. Scagliola Tables, and Depot of objects of \ Thomas Wolf be?s to iuform the Visitors ??u . • . . c-o, 1 I to Carlsbad that at his Establishment will be 1 heir extensive Show-rooms are always | j.^^^^, ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ ^i^^^^^ Assortment of open to Visitors. I ^^^ Crystal and Glass Wares of Bohemia— THEIR AGENTS IN ENGLAND ARE j especially Table and Dessert Services — MESSRS. J. AND R. M'CRACKEN, j ^'^ ^' ':::::!^!:,S^J^t:'^..,: 7, Old Jewry, Lmdon. Messrs. J. X: K. il'OUACKEISr, 7, Old Jewry. 12 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, V I E N NA. Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal €<lass Warehouse. JOSEPH LOBMEYR, GLASS MANUFACTURER, No. 940, KARNTHNERSTRASSE, Begs to inform Visitors to Vienna that he has considerably enlarged his Esta- blishment. The most complete assortment of ail kinds of Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass, and of all articles in this branch of industry, in the newest and most elegant style, is always on hand. The rich collections of all Articles of Luxury, viz. Table, Dessert, and other Services, Vases, Candelabras, Lustres, Looking-glasses, &c. &c., will, he feels assured, satisfy every visitor. The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. — The English language is spoken. His Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'Cracken, No. 7, Old Jewry, London, will execute all orders with the greatest care and attention. Everything for the Tourist, i GARY'S improved pocket 1 TOURIST'S TELESCOPE. DRESSING-CASKS. -At Mr. MECHI'S (_Sce ' Murray's HMidbouk.') EsUlilishineiits, 112, Tiegent Sireet, 4, Lead- I piiliall Street, and Crystal Palace, are EX- : Just published, 16th Edition, HIBITED the FINEST SPECIMENS of I ^ ' ' BlilTISH MANUFACTURES, in Dressing GOULD'S COMPAXIOX TO THE Cases, \\ ork Boxes, vVrituig Cases, Dressuig n,./-,. nc^ n r\ Bags, and other articles of utility or luxury, ! MICKuSCOPE. suitable for presentation. A separi4s De- r> • j j t j partment for Papier Mache Manufactures and | Kevised and Improved. Bagatelle Tables. Table Cutlery, i;azors,Scis- i Cary, Jilathematieal and Oiitical Instru- sors, Pen-knives, Strops, Paste, &c. hhipprng i ^ at i i ii a i • i\ ] r. i orders executed. Aii extensive assortnient ! i^^"*^ ^'■'^'^er to the Admiralty and Koyal of superior Hair and other Toilet Brashes. ! Military College, &e. &c., 181 , Strand. FRANKFORT O. M. MESSRS LOHR & ALTEN, ritOPRIETOltS OF THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, Beg to recommend their House to English Travellers. This large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Pi'oprietors, and newly furnished with every comfort, and a new splendid Dining-room. The " Roman Emperor" is often honoured by Royal Families and other liigh personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel — II.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WURPEMBERQ. H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WURTEMBERG. H.I.II. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSfRIA. &e. &c. &c. Table-d'h6teat 1, Ifl. 30kr. Breakfast, 42kr. „ „ 5, 2fl. IVa, 42kr. Bed Rooms, from Ifl. to 3fl. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 13 BERLIN. C. HARSCH & CO., 67, Unter den Linden, FAHCY (SILASi WAIr^lEHOUSIE, Beg to call the attention of VisiTOUS to their Extensive Assortment of BOHEMIAN, BAVARIAN, AND SILESIAN GLASS, CONSISTING OF ARTICLES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, OF THE NEWEST AND MOST ELEGANT PATTERNS, Their Correspondents in London are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry. ARGUS LIFE ASSURANCE COMPANY, 30, THROGMORTON STREET, BANK. Chairman— THOMAS FARNCOMB, Esq., Alderman. Deputy-Chairman— WILLIAM LEAF, Esq. Rich. E. Arden, Esq. I Professor Hall, M.A. | Rupert l)igleby,Esq. I Jeremiah Pilcher, Esq. Edward Bates, Esq. | J.Humpherj'.Esq.Ald. | S. W. Johnson, Esq. | Lewis Pocock, Esq. Physician— Dr. Jeaffreson, 2, Finsbury Square. Surgeon— W. Coulson, Esq., 2, Frederick's Place, Old Jewry. Actuary— George Clark, Esq. ADVANTAGES OF ASSURING IN THIS COMPANY. The Premiums are on the lowest scale con- sistent with security. The Assured are protected by a subscribed Capital of 300,00nL, an Assurance Fund of 450,000?., invested on mortgage and in the Government Stocks, and an income of 85,000L a-year. Premiums to assure 100^ Whole Term. < One Year. Seven Years. With Profits. Without Profits. 20 30 40 00 GO £0 17 8 1 1 3 1 5 1 14 I 3 2 4 £0 19 9 I 2 7 1 6 9 1 19 10 3 17 £1 15 10 2 ft 5 3 7 4 B 8 6 12 9 £1 11 10 2 7 2 14 10 4 11 6 10 MUTUAL BRANCH. Assurers on the Bonus System are entitled at the end of five years to participate in nine- teiiths, or 90 per cent., of the profits. The profit assigned to each policy can be added to the sum assured, applied in reduction of the annual premium, or be received in cash. At the tirst division a return of 20 per cent, in cash on the premiums paid was declared ; this will allow a reversionary increase vary- ing, according to age, from 66 to 2S per cent, on the premiums, or from 5 to 15 percent, on the sum assun.-d. One-half of the "Whole Term" Premium may remain on credit for seven years, or one- third of the Pi-emium may remain for life as a deM upnu the Policy at 5 per cent., or may be paid off at any time without notice. Claims paid in one month after proofs have been approved. Loans upon approved security. No charge for Policy stamps. Medical attendants paid for their reports. Persons may, in time of peace, proceed to or reside in any part of Europe or British North America without extra charge. The medical officers attend every day at a quarter liefore two o'clock. E. BATES, Eciident Director. 14 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. FOREIGN CREDITS AND CIRCULAR NOTES. rTHE NATIONAL BANK OF SCOTLAND GRANT CREDITS of £10 -*- and upwards, availalile for Travellers, Foreign Residents, Military and Naval Officers on Foreign Service, Emigrants, S:c., and also fur Business purposes, in all the principal places on the CONTINENT, MKIUTEKRANEAN, MADEIRA, EASF and WEST INDIES, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND, UNITED STATES, CANADA, &c. &c. These Credits may be obtained at the Head Office, and at the Glasgow and Dundee Branches, or through any of the other Branches of the Bank. National Bank of Scotland, Edinburgh, April, 185S. SORRENTO. GRAND HOTEL VILLA NAHDI, BY WILLIAM TRAMONTANO. THIS Hotel, which has recently been greatly altered and enlarged, is beautiful!)' situated on the borders of the Sea, and commands an uninterrupted and extensive view of the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. The Landlady is English, and gives her particular attention to Cleanliness and Cooking, and the general comfort of Visitors. Large and small Apartments looking on to the Bay. An excellent Table d'H6te daily Baths, and Barques for C;ipri. French, English, and German spoken. Charges moderate. FOREIGN LANGUAGES. ORIGINAL AND COMPLETE EDITIONS OF AHN'S FOREIGN GRAMMAES. Ahn's Remodelled German Grammar and Key, 1857, cloth, is. 6(i. ; French Grammar and Key, 3rd edition, 1858, cloth, 4s. Gd.; Italian Grammar and Key, 2nd edition, 1857, cloth, 5s. ; Spanish Grammar and Key, cloth, 5s. ; Portuguese Grammar. 1857, cloth, 4s. ; Swedish Grammar, 1858, cloth, 4s. ; Danish Grammar, 1S58, cloth, 4s. ; Dutch Grammar, clotb, 4s. ; Latin Grammar, cloth, 3s. The method of Ahn, now of European cele- brity, is most simple and rational, and is emi- nently adapted for Self-tuition, for School use, and for a comparative study of European Languages. FOREIGN DIALOGUES, On an entirely new and practical plan, calcu- lated to insure a rapid acquisition of Foreign Languages, 12mo. cloth. German and English Dialogues, by Meissner, 2s. 6(Z. ; French and English ditto, by Dudevant, 2s. 6d.; Italian and English ditto, by Marchezzi, 2s. 6(i. ; Spanish and English ditto, by Salvo, 2s. 6d. ; Sivedish by Lenstriim, Danish by Lund, each 2s. 6d. ; Dutch by Harlen, Portuguese by Mon- teiro, each 2s. (id. ; Turkish, Russian, Eiiyli^h, and French Vocabulary, for Travellers in the East, 2s. Gd. Published by Mr. Franz Thimm, Publisher and Foreign Bookseller, 3, Brook Street, Gros- venor Square, London; and at 32, Princess Street, Manchester. P.S.— Travellers can order these Grammars and Dialogues through any Continental Book- seller. OXFORD lies on the road to Bath, Bristol, Clifton, and the West of Eng- land ; to Leamington, Warwick, Kenilworth, Stratford-on-Avon, Jjirmingbam, Worcester, Wolverhampton, Chester, Manchester, Liver- pool, and the North; to Cheltenham, Glou- cester, and South Wales. In its neighbour- hood are Blenheim, Nuneham, and other places of interest. VISITORS TO OXFORD (a central point for Railway Travellers) are invited to inspect SPIERS AND SON'S ESTABLISHMENTS, 102 & 103, High St., 45 & 46 Cm-nmarJcet St., and 24, Neieinnhall St., Where will be found one of the largest and most varied Stocks in the kingdom of USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL MANUFACTURES, Suitable for Presents, or for Remembrances of Oxford. At the Great' E.xhibition in London, of 1851, and in Paris, of 1855, "Honourable Mention " was awarded to their Papier Mach€ Manufactures ; and at the New York Exhi- bition of 1853, the " Prize Medal." MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15 LACK'S GUIDE-BOOKS TRAVELLING MAPS. To Tourists in Britiiiii {^i In noat Portable Volumes, profusely illustrated hy Maps, Charts, and Views of the Scenery, and containing full particulars regarding Hotels, Distances, and whatever is likely to prove useful or instructive to the Tourist. Zngrland, 10/6. | irorksbire, 1/6 & 2/. ^n^Iish Ziake District, 5/. Scotland, 8/6. Do. Illustrated Edition, 7/6. Hig-hlands (Anderson's), 10/6. "Wales, XJorth and Soutb, 5/. Trosachs, 1/6. STortli "Wales, separately, 3/6. Staffa and Zona, 1/6, Derby and "W"arwick sbires, Edinburgh and Environs, 2/6. eacb 1/6 &. 2/. Glasgow^ and Environs, 2/6. Devon and Corn^rall, 1/6 &, 2/. Hampshire (Isle of "Wight) 1/6 Ireland, 5/. & 2/. I Dublin, I^illarney, each 1/6. ROAD AND RAILAVAY TRAVELLING MAPS. Carefully constructed from tbe Maps of the Ordnance Survey and other Authorities, and containing all the Roads, Railroads, Villages, Country Seats, Fishing Streams, Rivers, Lakes, and Mountains, and every Topographical Information required by the Tourist on pleasure or business. Mounted or printed on cloth, and neatly bound in portable cases. England, 32 x 22i. 4/6. English Iiakes, 19 x 14. 2/6. "Wales, K". &.S. 14 X Hi. each 1/6. Scotland, 32 x 22i. 4/6. Scotch Counties, each 1/. Smaller Maps at 2s. 6d. and Is. each. Ireland, 20 x uh 2/6. Germany, 17 X 24. 4/6. Europe, 3 feet by 4. IS/. PROFESSOR FORBES'S WORKS OM SWITZERLAND AND NORWAY. THE TOUR OF MONT BLANC AND OF MONTE ROSA: Being a I'ersonal Narrative, abridged from the Author's ' Travels in the Alps of Savoy.' With a Map of the Mer do Glace of Chamouni and neighbouring district; containing im- portant additions and corrections from the Author's more recent observations. In Fcap. Cloth, Price 5^:. " An admirable edition, and the Map of the Mer de Glace most cwrect and valuable." — Albert Smith. NORWAY AND ITS GLACIERS VISITED IN 1851. Followed by Journals of E.KCursions in the High Alps of Dauphind, Berne, and Savoy With Two Maps and numerous Illustrations. Royal 8vo. Cloth, Price 21s., Recently Published, MADEIRA, ITS CLIMATE AND SCENERY: A Handbook for Invalid and other Visitors. By Robert White. Second Edition. Edited by James Yatk Johnson. With Map, Crown 8vo. Is. 6d. " The most complete and trustworthy Guide Book to Madeira yet published." — Litekart Gazette. Edinburgh : A. & C. BLACK. London : LONGMAN & CO. ; & SMITH & SON, Strand ; and all Booksellers. 16 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. FRANKFORT O. M. S!LBEIli\E MEDAIILE ; STEMPEl, b e w i 1 1 i g t vom V^ Afli SENAT der freien Stadt, FRAMFIIRT. FIIIEDEICH BO.HLEE, MNUFACTOUY OF STAGHORN, Zeil No. 54 (next door to the Post-Ofiace). Furniture of every description, as Sofas, Chairs, Tables, &c. &c. Chan- deliers, Table and Hand Candlesticks, Shooting-tackle, Inkstands, Paper- knives, Penholders, Seals, &c. Knives, Riding-whips, Cigar-cases and Holders, Pipes, Match-boxes, Porte-monnaies, Card-cases, Thermometers, Goblets, Candle-screens, Figures and Groups of Animals executed after Itiedinger and others. Brooches, Bracelets, Earrings, Shirt-pins, Studs, and Buttons. Stag and Deer Heads with Antlers attached to the Skull. Sofa- rugs or Foot-cloths of Skins of Wild Animals with Head jireserved. Orders for a Complete Set or for any quantity of Furniture will be promptly executed. The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. M^Cracken, 7, Old Jewry. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 17 FRANKFORT O. M. FPiIEDPiICIl BOHLEE, Zeil, 4i-^S No. 54, ^■^' d e r Post, diclit neben Stempel, bewilligt vom Senat 0,(MXy Mt^^ der freien Stadt, Frankfurt. Pendules (Ornamental Clocks) of every description, Vases, Goblets, Antique and Modern St^vtuettes and Gboups, Groups of Animals, Inkstands, Paper-weights, &c. &c., in Bronze, Cast Iron, Galvano-plastic, &c. Crowx-chandeliers ; Branch, Table, and Hand Candlesticks, in Bronze, &c. ; Lamps of every description. Porcelain and Britannia-metal Goods, Liqueur-chests. Travelling Dressing-cases, Piailroad Companions, Picnic-baskets, Tra- velling Bags, Brushes, Combs. Work-tables and Boxes, Tapestries, Fans, Ball-books, Smelling-bottles, •Opera-Glasses, &g. &c. Superior Copies of the Ariadne by Danneckcr, and the Amazon by Kiss. Genuine Eau de Cologne of Jean Maria Farina, opposite the Jiilichsplatz. The Agents in Loudon are Messrs. J. and R. M^Cracken, 7, Old Jewry. c 18 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. i "ft Jk3^ # PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE, LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E. C. PAETIES residing in any part of the United Kingdom or London, who desire to avoid delay, trouble, or expense, can have their PASSPORTS obtained and duly vised, with the utmost expedition and despatch upon application by Letter, or otherwise, to Mr. W. J. ADAMS (Bradshaw's British and Continental Guide Office), 59, Fleet Street, as above. Country' Residents, by this arrangement, are saved the trouble of coming to London about their Passport, as it can be forwarded to them by Post {en Regie). For full particulars, see Bradshaw's Continentxil Guide, pages xxix to xxxlv. The countersignature of the American Minister in London obtained to United States Passports. Passports carefully mounted, and Names lettered thereon in Gold. Passport Cases, from Is. 6c?. to 68. each, Travelling Desks. Travelling Bags (Leather). Travelling and Pocket Inkstands. Travelling Soaps. Shaving do. Door & Window Fasteners & Alarms. Travelling roll -up Writing Cases. Travelling Pocket Memorandum and Writing Cases. Travelling Luggage Labels, adhesive. Do. do. Parchment. Cash Belts, Straps, &c. Cash Bags and Purses. Students' & Portable Travelling Cases. Pocket and Memorandum Books. Polyglot Washing Books for Ladies or Gentlemen — English and French — Italian — German — Spanish — Portuguese, Is. each ; per Post, Is. \d. Family do., Is. 6c?. each; per Post, Is. Id. Foreign Post Note Paper, Envelopes. &c. &c. Courier Bags. Carpet do. And every description of Stationery, British and Foreign THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. Phrase Books, French and German Dictionaries. Bradshaw's Biutish and Continental Guides. Bradshaw's Special Continental Guide and Handbook. Bradshaw's Descriptive Guide and Illustrated Handbook of Great Britain and Ireland, with Map, &c. Ditto of France, Belgium, Switzerland, Paris, India, London, &c. Dr. Lee's Continental Books on Climates, Scenery, and Remedial Resources- Notes on Spain, its Climate, &c. ; Nice and its Climate. Adaims's Guides to the Watering-places of England; boards, 2s. Adams's English Lakes, &c.. Is. Addresses of experienced Couriers may be had on application to W. J. ADAMS (Bradshaw's British and Continental Guide Office), LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E.C. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 19 BONN ON THE RHINE. MR. SCHMITZ, PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL, Begs leave to recommeud his Hotel to English Travellers. The apartments are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms are carpeted ; and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine- cellar, is well provided. Mr. SCHMITZ begs to add that at no first- rate Hotel on the Rhine will be found more moderate charges and more cleanliness. The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following Members of the English Royal Family : — R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by General Sir W. Codrincton, Col'-inel PoNSONBT, Sir Frederic Stanlkv, Dr. Akmstrong, Rev. F. C. Tauvkh, Mr. GiBiis, etc , R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite paying a visit at the Golden Star Hotel to His Majesty the King of the Belgians. R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite. R. H. the Duchess of Camwudge and Princess Mart of Cambridge, accompanied by the Baron Knesebeck and Suite. R. H. the Prince of Walks paying a visit at the Golden Star Hotel to T. R. H. the Duchess of Cambkukie and i'rintess Mart of Cambiulge. R. H. the Prince of Wales, acconiyianied by the Right Honourable C. Grey, General Major, Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. Armstrong. Rev. F. C. Takver, Mr. Gibbs, etc. R. H. Prince Alfred of Great Britain, accompanied by Lieutenant- General Sir Frederick Stovin and Lieutenant Cowell. , M. Adelaide, Queen Dowager of Great Britain, accompanied by His Highness Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, Lord and Lady Bah- rington. Sir David Davies, M.D., Rev. J. R. Wood, M.A., Capuiiii Taylor, &c. &c., honoured the above establisliment with a 'J'hreb Days' Visit. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge and Suite. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Clarence (King William IV. and Queen Adelaide) and Suite. M. QUEEN Adelaide, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of Eurol Earl and Countess of Denbigh, Earl and Coimtess Howe, &c. R. H. the Duchess of Gloucester and Suite. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. R. H. the Prince George of Cambridge and Suite. R. H. Prince Albert of Saxe Coburg Gotiia, accompanied by Prince Ernest of Saxe Coburg Gotiia, and their Suite. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge, accompanied by the Princess Augusta of Cambridge, and their Suite. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. Prince of Leiningen. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. R. H. Princess Carolina of Cambridge. R. PL the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. R. H. Princess Mart of Cambridge. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. Prince of Leiningen. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, with their Family and Suite. 1857. Oct. 16 {"■ 1857. Aug. 20 {„. 1857. Aug. 8 H. 1857. July 29 )'• 1857. July 29 )"• 1857. July 15 H. 1856. Nov. . H. 1846. June 18 1818. May . . 1S25. March and Sept. . 1834. July. . H. 1836. ]837. 1839. Aug. . July. . Nov. . Nov. . < H. H. H. (H. f 1840. .•••■' (H. 1841. ... .J H. 1841. 1844. 1845. • • • • • • • • June . H. H. H. H. H. 1847. July . ^ r. the the 20 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. ROYAL INSURANCE COMPANY, ROYAL INSURANCE BUILDINGS, JlTorth John Street, and I>ale Street, liiTerpool, AND 29, LOMBARD STREET, LONDON. Capital— £2,000,000 in lOOjOOO Shares of £20 each. THE City Article of the London Times, of the 24th of July 1856, states that the transactions of the Royal Insurance Company "appear to ■have been of a perfectly satisfactory character." It includes the following statements confirmatory of that opinion : — PREMIUMS. The Premiums of Kino Offices enumerated are} ^824 924 stated to be i ' Of which the Royal alone amounts to 371,957 being 82 per cent, of the accumulated Premiums of the remaining eight Companies. EXPENDITURE. The accumulated Expenditure of 5-i Life Offices enumerated by The Times of 12th August, 1856, compared with their amount of Premium and Interest, is stated to be 61 per cent. ; the Expenditiu-e of the Koyal Insur- ance Company is only 13 per cent. RESOURCES. In like manner the entire Funds in hands of thirteen Offices are quoted in The Times at £1,238,688, including the " Royal," wliich alone is £372,394, and which is, therefore, equal to 43 per Cent, of the accumulated Funds of the remaining twelve Offices, viz. for the year 1S55. Since increased to £600,000. The following figures exhibit the RAPID GROWTH AND INCREASING RESOURCES OF THE COMPANY :— Whilst last year, 1857, they were £175,000 Total Revenue, 1857, all sources 260,000 Increase on One Year alone 40,000 Funds in hand, to meet any claims, over £600,000. LIFE. LARGE BONUS DECLARED 1855, Amounting to £2 per cent, per annum on the Sum Assured : being, on ages from Twenty to Forty, 80 per cent, on the Premium. PERIODS OF »lVBSIOI\ — EVERV FIVE YEARS. PROGRESS OF THE LIFE BRANCH. New Policies for the Year ending FIRE PREMIUMS. SUM ASSURED. PREMIUM. June, 1855 396 £166,864 £4.867 „ 1856 654 288,321 8,370 ,, 1857 756 391,158 11,894 Thus the New Assurers for the Year ending June, 1857, are 160 per cent, above those for the Year ending June, 1 855. PERCY M. DOVE, Actuary and Manager. TTie Company is willing to consider tlie propriety of establisiiing Agencies in Foreign places, ivhere it has not at present any Representatives. Applications from Gentlemen of the higliest position and cliaracter will alone receive attention. Fire Premiums- -1848 . . £31.346 1850 . . 44.027 1852 . . 76,925 » 1854 . . 128,459 ■>■> „ 1856 . . 151,733 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21 PELICAN LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY, Established in 1797, 70, Lombard Street, City, and 57, Charing Cross, Westminster, DIRSCTOSIS. Henry Grace, Esq. Kirkman D. Hodt;son, Esq., M.P. Henry Lancelot Holland, Esq. Benjamin Shaw, Esq. Matthew Whiting, Esq. M. Wy vill, jun., Esq., M.P. Robert Gumey Barclay, Esq. Octavius E. Coope, Esq. William Cotton, D.C.L., F.R.S. John Davis, Esq. William Walter Fuller, Esq. Jas. A. Gordon, M.D., F.R.S. This Company offers : — COIVXFZ.STS SSCURZTV. MODERATE RATES of Premium with Participation in Four-fifths, or Eighty per cent., of the Profits. LOW RATES without Participation in Profits. In connection with Life Assurance, on approved Security, in sums of not less than £500. Required for the Assurance of lUOl. for the whole term of life : — Age. 15 20 30 Without Profits. With Profits. ±'1 U 1 13 10 2 4 £1 15 1 19 3 2 10 4 Age. 40 50 60 Without Profits. i2 18 10 4 9 6 10 ■\\^th Profits. £3 6 5 4 10 7 6 7 4 For Prospectuses and Forms of Proposal apply at the Offices as above, or to any of the Company's Agents. ROBERT TUCKER, Secretary. THE LONDON and WESTMINSTER BANK issues Circular Notes of £10 each, payable at every important place in Europe. These Notes are issued without charge, and they are cashed abroad free of commission. The Bank also issues, free of charge. Letters of Credit on all the principal cities and towns in Europe. The Letters of Credit are issued only at the head office, in Lothbury. The Circular A'otes may be obtained at the bead office, in Lothbury, or at any of the Branches, viz.; — Westminster Branch, 1, St. James's Square. Bloomsbury „ 214, High Holborn. Southwark ,, 3, Wellington Street, Borough. Eastern „ 87, High Street, Whitechapel. Marylebone „ 4, Stratford I^lace, 0.\ford Street. Temple Bar „ 217, Strand. May 1, 1858. J. W. GILBART, General Manager. LUCERNE (SWITZERLAND). ME. JOHN EEBER, rKOPRIETOR OF THE ENGLISH HOTEL, (ENGLISCHER HOF). THIS SPLENDID HOTEL is situated on the borders of the LAKE OF THE FOUR CANTONS. The views from the balconies of the Hotel are of the most splendid description. Many of the rooms command the view of the magnificent chain of the Alps, Mount Pilate, and the Righi. The ENGLISH HOTEL contains sixty rooms provided with every comfort. This new and very clean Establishment is one of the first-ranked hotels in Switzerland, and deservedly patronised by the English. The Beading Room of the Hotel is furnished with English and American Papers, The Times and Galignani. 22 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Give perfect frcedoin Imiu i'..u-hs in Ten jMinutes, niid instaiiMelicf and a rapid cure of Asthma and Consuiiiptioii, L'<jU!;lis, Colds, and .dl Disorders of the Breath and Lungs. Cure of 29 Years' Astlimatic Cough. Middli-ton, near Manchester. Sir,— I am now 44 years of age, and I have been afflicted with an asthmatic cougli since I wa,s a boy of fifteen years of age; during that time 1 have resorted to every means in my power to remove it, but in vain, until last Sunday, when I sent lor a small box of V.r. Ivocock's Wafers. 1 have taken two bo.xes since, and from the effects they have had upon me 1 feel no doubt of a speedj- recovery. G. STRINGER. Witness, M. Lysch, Chemist, Market-street. The 2^articulars of many hiuidi-eds of Cares may he had from every Agent thrmighout the Kingdom. To Sing-ers and Public Speakers they are invaluable, as in a few hours they remove all hoarseness, and wonderfully increase the power and flexibility of the voice. TllEY HAVE A PLEASANT TaSTE. Price Is. 1+ I., 2s. 9d., and 11,<!. per box. Sold by all Medicine Vendors. IMPORTANT CAUTION.— It has been discovered that many Medicine Vendors, when aski.d for any of 3J31. liOCOCBl'S I«E3>IClPrB3, attempt to pass off instead some counterfeit, bovause tliey have a greater profit in doing so tlian by selling the genuine Hfedicine: the Pur.Lic is CArTioxi:ii against such dislionest practices, which may be detected FEITS AKD AN IMPOSITION. VaSa^ XS tl ^St 'flS&S^SSISSB t'^^'^^ mU E VER Y SATURDA Y, PRICE FO (JRPENGE, OF ANY BOOKSELLER, THE ATHENJEUM JOURNAL OF LITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND ART. (stamped to go free by post, bd.) Contains : Reviews, with copious extracts, of every important New English Book, and of the more imi)ortant Foreign AV^orks. Heports of the Proceedings of the Learned and Scientific Societies, with Abstracts of all J'apers of Interest. Authentic Accounts of all Scientific Voyages nnd E.\peditions. Poreig-n Correspondence on subjects relating to Literatxire, Science, and Art. Criticisms on Art, with Critical Notices of I-Lxhibitions, Picture Collections, New Prints, itc. lilusic and I>railia, Including Reports on the Opera, Concerts, Theatres, New J.Iiisic, kc. Biogrrapllical Wotices of Men distinguished in Literature, Science, and Art. Orig^lnal Papers and Poems. "Weekly Gossip. 2>Xiscellanea, including all that is likelv to interest tlie informed and intelligent THE ATHENJEUM is so conducted that the reader, however far distant, is, in respect to Literature, Science, and the Arts, on an equality in point of infonnation with the best-informed circles of the Metropolis. *.* The ATHEN^UM is published every Saturday, but is re-issued each Month stitched in a WrappiT. The Volume for 1856, complete in itself, and containing about 1624 large quarto Pages, with Title-page and Index, may be had of any Bookseller, price One Guiivea. Office for Advertisements, 14, Wellington Stkeet Nouth, Stuanb, London, W. C. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23 NEW TOURIST'S MAP OF SCOTLAND. BY A. K. JOHNSTON, F.K.G.S., F.E.S.E., &c. Size, 3 feet by 2 feet, containing: 7439 Names of Places. Price 7s. 6d. in a case for the Pocket ; accompanied by an Alphabetical List of the Names in the Map. This Work, constructed at great expense from the Trigonometrical and Detail Surveys of the Boards of Ordnance and Admiralty, and an extensive collection of pi-ivate and unpublislied Materials, is the only ijeneral Map which orpresents the true Physical and Topographical Features of the Country. ' The assertion, bold as it is, seems fully borne out by the work itself." — Scotsman. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, Edinbukgh and London, On Four Sheets Imperial, beautifully printed in Colours, A GEOLOGICAL MAP OF EUROPE. By SIK R. I. MUECHISON, D.C.L., M.A., F.R.S., &c. ; Aud JAMES NICOL, F.R.S.E., F.G.S. Constructed by A. KEITH JOHNSTON, F.R.S.E., &c. Size, 4 feet 2 by 3 feet 5 inches. Price in Sheets, 3^. 3s. ; in a Cloth Case, 4to., 31. lus. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, Edinburgh and London. On Four Sheets Imperial, carefully coloured, price in Sheets, 30s. ; or in 4to., Cloth Case, for Travelling, 2l. 2s., A NEW MAP OF EUROPE. By A. KEITH JOHNSTON, F.R.S.E., &c. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, Edinburgh and London. NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION, THE PHYSICAL ATLAS OF NATURAL I PHENOMENA. By A. K. JOHNSTON, F.E.S.E., &c. I Consisting of 35 large and 7 small Plates, printed in Colours; and 145 folio pages of Text and Index. In imperial folio, half-bound in russia or morocco, price 12/. 12s. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, Edinburgh and London. 24 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. CORNWALL MINING DISTRICT. . Mineralogy and Geology. liAVIN'S MUSEUITI, €MAPEB. STREET, PENZANCE. VIEWS, SERPENTINE ORNAMENTS, iill, STUDENTS of Mineralogy and Geology, and Tourists to the Scenery, Antiquities, and Mines of Cornwall, will be interested by a visit to this Museum. The Collection of Cornish Minerals is unique, and contains specimens of the most Interi'sting and rare sub- stances, with perfect crystallizations, for which the aljuve County has been so justly celebrated. Selections made for Purchasers on various Scales. Minerals scientihcally arranged in Trays containing 100, with descriptive Catalogue, from If. 5s. to^ii. Larger Specimens neatly set in a Mahogany Cabinet at 5i. More extensive Selections and first-rate specimens from iol. to 501. and upwards. Geological Selections, comprehending Specimens of the various Eocks of the County, from ll. upwards. e5~ A specimen of Carbonate of Iron, from Wheal Maudlin Mine, for which the sum of 130^. has been refused ; as well as a great many others presumed to be unrivalled. A LARGE Assortment of the LrzAun Serpextine Ornamekts. Views of Scenerii and Antiquities, Handbooks, Pocket-Maps of Cornv:all and Devon. Prompt attention given to all Orders from a distance. ^URICH. -HOTEL BELLE VUE, By C. GUJER. This excellent first-rate establishment, re- cently constructed, s'rongly recommended for its comfort and cleanliness, is in the best and most delightful situation on the bank of the lake opposite the landing-place of the steamers, commanding frcjm its windows an extensive view over the lake, the Alps, and glaciers, as well as the quay and the town. It comprises upwards of 80 beds and 6 sitting-rooms, with separated breakfast and spacious dining saloons, a splendid and good restaurant a la carte, and English newspapers. Prices are moderate, a list of wliich will be found in each bed-room. Tables-d'hote at 1 and 5 o'clock. Flys to meet all trains; a small boat meeting the steamers. Knglish spoken by the servants. From Octolier till May a good pension (board) on reduced terms. J. H. KEREZ, CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST, ZURICH, DESPECTFULLY announces to Tour- -'-^ ists and Visitors that he prepares and dispenses Medicines and Prescriptions ac- cording to the Krglish Pharmacopa'ia with the purest and choicest Drugs and Chemicals. J. H. Kerez, having been a principal dis- pensing Assistant at one of the first Houses in England, hopes that his 'experience and attention will merit the support and confi- dence of the English Nobility and Gentry. J. H. K. keeps constantly on hand a well- selected Stock of the most popular Engliah Patent Medicines and Perfiunerj-. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25 SIR WALTER SCOTT'S WRITINGS AND LIFE. WAVER LEY NOVELS, «^^»i'' the Author's hxft Introductions, Notes, and Additions. LIBRARY EDITIOX. Illustratod by upwards of Two Hundred Engravin'^s on St.eU aftor Drawings bv Turner, Landseer, Wilkie, Sl.tntield, Roberts, i!tc., including Portraits of the Instorual personages described in the Novels. Complete in 25 volumt-s, demy 8vo., elegantly bound in extra cloth, 131. is. e'd. ABBOTSFORD EDITION. With One Hundred and Twenty Engravings on Steel, and nearly Two Thou- dred on Wood, In 12 vols, super-royal bvo. 14/. l-li. AUTHOR'S FAVOURITE EOmOX, in 48 portable fcap. 8vo. vols. (B6 Engravings), //. 45. CABINET EDITION, in 25 vols. fcap. 8vo. (26 Illustrations), JUs. 6d. PEOPLE'S EDITION, in 5 large vols, royal 8vo. 42s. POETICAL WORKS-consisting of, 1st. The Metrical Romances,— The Lay of the Last Minstrel, Marmiox, The Lady of the Lake, Rokeby, The Lord of the Isles, The Vision of Don Roderick, The Bridal of Triermain, and Harold the Dauntless. 2iid. Dramas, Songs, and Ballads. 3rd. The Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border. The folloiving are the only Copyright Editions, with the Author's last Notes ik Improvements, I. In One portable fcap. Vol. including all the 'Metrie:d Uonnances (e.\cept the * Bridal of Triermain* and •Harold'), the Principal Songs and Ballads, and several lllu>tniti()ns. Bound in cloth, gilt edges, 5i". ; morocco antique, 10*. II. In One crown 8vo. Vol. (same contents as previous eelition), with numerous Engravings on Steel and \Vood, aiter Sir David \^'illcie, Stanfield, Gilbert, and Fos- ter. Bound in cloth, gilt edges, 7^- *i(l. ; morocco ant. 14s. III. In 12 Vols. fcp. 8vo. (24 i;ngravings), 36s. *^* This is the only edition which contains 'The Min- ■strelsy of the Scottish Border.* IV. In 6 Vols. fcap. 8vo. (12 Engravings), 24s. V. In One Vol. royal 8vo. (PEOPLES EDI- TION), lOs. VI. The ABBOTSFORD EDITION, printed on Tint'-d Paper, with upwards of b'lt Illustrations on Steel and Wood, alter Turner, Gdbcrt, and Foster. Elegantly bound in extra cloth, gdt edges, 31s. Cd. ; morocco elegant or antique, 42.*(. VII. TOURISTS' EDITIONS of The LAY (if the LAST MINSTKEL, M.\liM10N, LADY of the LAKE, LORD of the ISLE.S, KOKEB'V', and BRIDAL of FKIER.MAIN, IS. 3d. each; cloth, Is. 6d. ; morocco, gilt edges, 2.S. 6d. VIII. New Illustrated Editions of The LADY if the LAKE, MAllMION, LAY of the LA.ST MIN- STREL, and LORD of the ISLES, contiuning each from 70 to 100 Illustrations on Wood, by Birket Foster and John liilbert. Piinte<l in the best style on Tinttnl Paper, and _'leg.'intly bound in cloth, gilt edgrs, IB-?, each; morocco .;lcgant or antique, 2gs. ; enamelled tartan boards, 36s. PROSE WORKS-consisting of. Tales op a Grandfather (History of Scotland), Tales OF A GRANDF.iTHER (History of France), Life of John Dryden, Memoies op Jonathan Swift, Mejioirs of Eminent Novelists, &c., Paul's Letters to his Ivinsfolk, Essays on Chlvalry, Romance, and the Drama, &c., Provincial Antiquities of Scotland, Life OF Napoleon Bonaparte, Miscellaneous Criticisms, &c. COMPLETE EDITIONS. I. In 28 Vols. fcap. 8vo. with 56 Engravings from Turner, 84s. ; separate volumes, 35. II. In 3 Vols, royal Svo. (People's Edition). Bound in clotli, 2tjs. ; separate volumes, I. and IT. 10s, each; III. (Talks of a Grandfather), 6s. Illustrated Edition of the TALES of aGRAND- F.VTHER — (HlsTORv op Scotland). With 6 Engravings after Turner, and upwards of 50 on Wood. In 3 Vols, fcap. Svo. cloth, 125. ; extra cloth, gilt edgis, I5s. (History of France). With 2 Engravings from Turner and upwards of 50 on Wood. 1 vol. fcap. Svo. cloth, 4s. ; extra clotli, gilt edges, 5s. School Edition of the HISTORY of SCOT- LAND, with Map. 2 vols, crown Svo. bound, 10s. LIFE of NAPOLEON BONAPARTE. 5 vols, fcap. Svo. Maps, Portrait, and 9 Engravings after Turner, cloth, tOs. Another Edition, in larger type. 9 vols. fcap. 8vo. Maps, Portmits, and Engravings, cloth, 27s. SELECTIONS from Sir WALTER SCOTT'S WORl-CS— Belgium and Waterloo, France AND Paris, Tales op Chh^alry, Romantic Narratives, Characters op Eminent Per- sons, The Highland Clans, Scottish Scenes AND Characters, ISARitAirvE and Descrip- tive Pieces. Price Kighteenpence, or Two Shillings cloth. BEAUTIES of SIR WALTER SCOTT; being Selections from his Writings and Lite. 1 vol. crown 8vo., with Two Engravings, cloth gilt, 5s. ; extra cloth, gilt sides and edues, 65. READIXGS for the YOUXG-, from the Works of Sir W:iUer Scott. 3 vols, with 36 lUustr.itiuns on Wooii, ^s. 6d. each ; or bound in 1 vol. cloth, gilt edges, 7s. LIFE of Sm AVALTER SCOTT. By J. G. LocKHART, Esq. Three Editions as follows. In Ten Vols. fcap. Svo., uniform with the Au- thor's Favourite Edition of the Novels. 20 Engravings on Steel. 30s. In' One Vol, royal 8vo., uniform with the Novel?, People*s Edition, Witli Portrait, 105. The same, Largo Paper, uniform with the Novels, Abcotsford Edition. With 11 Engravings from T'omcr, Portraits, &c., 185. In One Vol. crown 8vo., Mlth 12 Engravings from Turner and others, 7-s. ^- \ extra cloth, gilt edges, 3s. td. Edinburcfh ; ADAM and CHARLES BLACK. London ; And all Booksellers. HOULSTON and WRIGHT. 2G MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. THE NEW REGISTERED PORTMANTEAU, UKGISXEUICD AND MANUFACTURED BY JOHN SOUTHGATE, 76, WATLING STREET, LONDON. This Portmanteau is admitted by all wlio have used it to be the most perfect and useful of any: yet invented, and to combine all the advantages so long desired by those who travel. Its peculiar conveniences consist in its containing separate compartments for each description of Clothes, Boots, &c. ; each division is kept entirely distinct, and is immediately accessible on. opening the Portmanteau, without lilting or disturbing anything else; every article is packed per-- feclly flat, and remains so during the whole of the journey. SOUTHGATE'S NEW FOLDING PORTMANTEAU. With separate divi- sions for Shirts, Linen, Clothes, and Boots ; the whole of which are immediately accessible on opening the Port- manteau. Both of these Port- manteaus are admir- alty adapted for Con- tinental travelling, on account of the facility they offer for Custom- house examination, without disarranging the wardrobe. JOH\ SOUTHGATE'S LADIES' POUTMANTEAUS AND DRESS TRIMS, With 'I'rays and Moveable Divisions for Bonnets, contain every convenience for packing separately J)resses, Boimets, Linen, &c., and are made in various styles and sizes. Tliey may be obtained of Mr. WtLKiNSON, 30, Cockspur Street; of Messrs. Moore & Co., 14, St, James's Street, London; of Mr. HtiNT, Above Bar, Southampton; of Mr. Bays, Hatter, Cambridge; of Mr. ICllknger, Granger Street, Newcastle-on-Tyne ; Mr. Northam, Tnmk Maker, opposite St. Sidwell's Church, Exeter; Mr. Damon, Weymouth; Mr. Nicholson, Saddler, Manchester; of any tjaddler or Outtitter throughout the kingdom'; and of the Manufacturer, JOHN SOUTHGATE, 76, WATLING STREET, LOKDOW. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 27 SOUTH-EASTERN RAILWAY. THE MAIL SHORT SEA-ROUTE TO ALL PARTS OF THE CONTmENT, VIA FOLKESrONE AND BOULOGNK, AND DOVER AND CALAIS. LONDON, PARIS, AND THE SOUTH OF EUROPE. Paris in 10| hours. Switzerland (Bale) 37h hours. Marseilles 34 hours. Bordeaux 38 hours. Sea-passagre under 2 hours. Four departures daily. 1. B}^ Tidal Service via Folkestone and Boulogne. For times of sailing see Company's Time-book and Bradshaw's (niides. This (Service is now accelerated so as to perform the jonrney between Loudon and Paris in less than 11 hours. Small Boats are never used in embarking or landing. The Trains are accompanied by an Inter- preting Conductor. OTHER SERVICES Leave London Arrive at Paris Leave Paris Arrive in London 2. 8.30 a.m. (via Calais) 10.20p.m. 8.0 a.m. 10. p.iu. 3. 1.30 p.m. „ 5.30 a.m. 1.45 p.m. 4.30 a.m. 4. 8.30 p.m. „ 9.10 a.m. 7.30 p.m. 7.45 a.m. -^"W^*^ can be registered by all Through Trains. LONDON AND PARIS. There is a Tldrd Class Service between these Cities. Fare, 25s. Beturn Tickets are also issued, First and Second Class. LONDON, BELGIUM, HANOVER, GERMANY, THE RHINE, AND THE NORTH OF EUROPE, via Dover and Cains, and Dover a)id Ostend, Brussels in 13 hours. Berlin in 35 hours. Cologne in 19 hours. Hamburg in 36 hours. Three departures from Iiondon daily, viz. 8.30 a.m. (the most convenient Service), 1.30 p.m., and 8.30 p.m. Trains. Bag-grag^e can be registered to Brussels, Cologne, &c., by which each Passenger secures an allowance of 50 lbs. weight of Baggage /ree on the Belgian and Rhenish Railways. Through Tickets to nearly all the Chief Continental Cities (enabling the passenger to stop at certain places on the journey) and all informa- tion may be obtained at the Chief OfHces, London Bridge Station ; 4:0, Regent Circus, Piccadilly. City : 147, Cheapside, and 20, Moor- gate Street. Paris : 4, Boulevard des Italiens. Brussels : 74, Mon- tague de la Cour. For further particulars, see Time-book and Bills. C. W. EBORALL, General Manager. London Terminus, May, 1858. 28 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. The Society of Swiss Couriers and Travelling' Servants. THIS Society, liaving been composed only of the most experienced and respectable Couriers and Travelling Servants having a thorough knowledge of the Continental and Eastern Languages, beg most respectfully to solicit the patronage and support of the Nobility and Gentry. They possess the highest testimonials from those they have had the honour of serving both in England and abroad, and trust to merit a continuance of futxire favours. All information respecting Couriers and Travelling Servants can be had of the Agent, HENRY MASSEY, Manufacturing Stationer, 103, Park Street, Grosvenor Square. GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY. A KNOWLEDGE of these iuterestincr brandies of Science adds greatly to tlie pleasure of the traveller in all parts of the world, and may lead to important discoveries. Mr. TENNANT, Jlineralogist to Her Majesty, 149, Strand, ^'wes Practical Instruction to TrareUers in Misehalogy and Gecjlogy. He can supply Geological Maps, Hammers, Acid Bottles, Blowpipes, and all the recent Works on Mineralogj', Conchology, Chemistry, and GeoUigy. Elementary Collections of Jlinerals, Eocks, and Fossils, at Two, Five, Ten, Twenty, Fifty, and One Hundred Guineas each. A Collection for Five Guineas, which will illustrate the recent works on Geology by Lyell, Ansted, Blantell, and others, contains 200 Specimens, in a plain Mahogany Cabinet, with five Trays, comprising the following specimens, viz.: — JIINElvALS which are either the components of rtncks, or occasionally embedded in them : Quartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Garnet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Augite, Asbestus, Felspar, Mica, Talc, Tourmaline, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Bar3'ta, Sti'ontia, Salt, Sulphur, Plumbago, Bitumen, &c. NATIVE Mm'ALS, or METALLIFEROUS MINERALS: these are found in masses or beds, in veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivers. .Spiximens of the following metallic ores are put in the Cabinet: Iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver, Gold, Platina, &c. ROCKS : Granite, Gneiss, Mica-slate, Clay-slate, Porphyry, Serpentine, Sandstones, Lime- stones, Basalt, Lavas, See. PALEOZOIC FOSSILS from the Llandeilo, Wenlock, Ludlow, Devonian, and Carboni- ferous Rocks. SECONDARY FOSSILS from the Lias, Oolite, Wealden, and Cretaceous Groups. TERTIARY FOSSILS from the Woolwich, Barton, and Bracklesham Beds, London-clay, Crag, S;c. In the more expensive collections some of the specimens are rare, and all more select. Mr. Tennakt has on sale the Duke of Buckingham's Collection of IMinerals I'rom Stowe. It contains upwards of 3000 specimens, and has been greatly enriched since the purchase by a collection of coloured Diamonds, Australian Gold, &c. Price 2000 guineas. TENNANT, Geologist, No. 149, Strand, Loudon. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 29 illL ill Sill NEW ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE CONTAINS DESIGNS AND PRICES OF 150 DIFFERENT ARTICLES OF BED-EOOM FURMITUEE, AS WELL AS OF 100 BEDSTEADS, AND Prices of Every Description of Bedding. SENT FREE BY PO HEAL AND SON, BEDSTEAD, BEDDING, AND BED-ROOM FURNITURE MANUFACTURERS, 196, TOTTENHAM COURT EOAD, LONDON. 30 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. TO TOURISTS AND TRAVELLERS. PASSPORTS— NEW REGULATIONS. BRITISH SUBJECTS who are prepaiiiif; to visit or travel on the Continent may be saved much trouble and expense by obtainius Foreign Office Passports through EDWARD STANFORD'S Agency, 6, Charing Cross, London; whose experience and long established arrange- ments enable him to ensure Passjiorts in proper form and duly vised, according to the New Regulations, without personal attendance. He mounts the Passport, which is good for many years, on Muslin or Silk, in Roan, Morocco, or Russia Case, to prevent injury or loss, as well as to lessen delay in undergoing examina- tion abroad. Residents in the country can have Passports obtained, completed, and forwarded by post. For further particulars, including the Forms of Application, Cost of Passport, Visas, &c. &c., see Stanford's Passport Circular, which will be forwarded per post on appliciition. Edward Stanford has on sale at all times the best English and Foreign Maps, Handbooks, and Railway Guides, Pocket Dictionaries, and Conversation Books. THE FOLLOWING CATALOGUES, Embracing various portions of EDWARD STANFORD'S Stock, may be had upon application. < 1.— Ordnance IVIaps.— Catalogue of the ORDNANCE MAPS, published under the superintendence of LiEnT.-CoLONEL James, R.E., Superintendent of the Ordnance Surveys. 2.— Geological Survey Maps.— Catalogue of the GEOLOGICAL MAPS, SECriO.NS and MEMOIRS of the GEOLOGICAL SURVEY of GREAT BRI- TAIN and IRELAND, under the superintendence of Sir Roderick I. MuRcni- SON, Director-General of the Geological Surveys of the United Kingdom. 3.— Geologrical Maps.— Catalogues of the best GEOLOGICAL MAPS of various parts of the World. 4.— General Catalogue.— General Cabilogue of Atlases, Maps, Charts, Plans &c., English and Foreign, including the Trigonometrical Surveys of various States. 5.— XTseful Knowledge Maps.— Catalogue of Atlases, Maps, and Plans, en- graved under the superintendence of The Society for the Diffusion op Useful Knowi.kdoe. " 6.— Admiralty Charts.— Catalogue of Charts, Plans, Views, and Sailing Direc- tions, &c., published by order of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiraltt, 178 pages royal 8vo., piice Is. 6d. 7. — VTar Department.— Catalogue of the Plans, Maps, and Drawings, issued by The War Defartment, and sold by Edward Stanford. 8,— Educational.— Catalogue of Educational Atlases and Maps, recently published by Edward Stanford. 9.— Emigration.— A List of Publications on the British Colonies and the United States, sekctid from the Stock of Edward Stanford. XO. — Johnston's Maps. — Johnston's List of Geographical and Educational Works, compiisiiig Atlases, Maps, Globes, &c., sold wholesale and retail by Edward Stanford. 11.— Guide-Books for Tourists.— Catalogue of Guide-Books, Maps, Plans, Dictionaries, and Conversation-Books, &c., for Tourists and Travellers. LONDON: EDWARD STANFORD, 6, CHARING CROSS. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 31 TO TOURISTS & TRAVELLERS, Visitors to the Sea Coast, and to those who enjoy the Promenade, the Ride and Drive. In ail cases, fervid heat, and its concomitant, dust, materially injure the skin, producing sunburn, tan, freckles, and discolourations of an almost indelible character. To obviate and eradicate these baneful results, recourse may with confidence be had to ROWLANDS' KALYDOR, an Oriental botanical preparation. Whether resorted to in its specific character as a tho- rough purifier of existing defects of an erup- tive nature, and discolourations of the skin, or as a preserver and promoter of its already bright and glowing tints, this ELEGANT TOILETTE REQUISITE has in every instance maintained its claim to the title of " THE UNFAILING AUXI- LIARY OK FEMALE GRACE." During Summer and Autumn the invigorating and refreshing properties of Rowlands' Kalydou will be found singularly agreeable to i.ii.x>ii:s TaiivEi.i.iiirG ; the effects produced by temporary exposure to solar heat upon the Face, Neck, Arms, and Hands being neutralized, and the cloud induced by relaxation and languor dispelled by its power of sustaining a perfect elasticity of the Skin ; without which certain deteriora- tion takes place ; — thus, in the usual periodical visits made to the coast, Rowlands' Ka lvdor is indispensable as a preservative of the Skin after SEA BATHING, from the irritation caused by the chemical action of saline vapour. Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per bottle. GALIGNANPS >j rii The heat of summer also frequently com- municates a dryness to the hair, and a ten- dency to fall off, which may be completely obviated by the use of ROWLANDS' MACASSAR OIL, a delightful fragrant and transparent pre- paration, and as an invigorator and purifier beyond all precedent. Nor at this season can we be too careful to preserve the Teeth from tlie deleterious effects of vegetalile acids (the immediate cause of toothache), by a systematic employ- ment, night and morning, of ROWLANDS' ODONTO, OB, PEARL DENTlyRICE. a 'Wbite Powder, compounded of the rarest and most fragrant exotics. It bestows on the Teeth a pearl-like whiteness, frees them from Tartar, and imparts to the Gums a healthy firmness, and to the Breath a grateful sweetness and purity. Sold by A. Roicland and Sons, 20, nation Garden, London, and by Chemists and Fer- furriers. Beware of Spurious Imitations ! ! ! The only genuine of each bears the name of "ROWLANDS'" preceding that of the article on the Wrapper or Label. Compiled from tlie best authorities, re- vised and verified by personal inspection, and arranged on an entirely new plan, with Map and Plates. Roval 18mo. 10s. 6c?. bound ; or without Plates, 7s. 6d. bound. London : SiiiPKiN, Marshall, & Co. GERMAN LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE Taught on Ahn's celebrated System by HERRN OSCAR VON WEGNERN. Twelve Lessons for Travelling. 4, Sydney Street, Brompton, S.W., at a short distance from BELGRAVE SQUARE. Lake of Geneva. PENSION MASSON, Situated within half a mile of the Castle of Chillon, will be found in every respect an extremely comfort- able and well-regulated establish- ment. Terms, very moderate. The surpassing beauty of the surround- ing scenery is universally admitted ; and not only has the locality its undeniable attractions for summer visitors, but as a winter residence it is no less desirable ; its remark- ably sheltered position, protected as it is from the north and east, ren- dering its climate truly delightful. 32 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. WORKS ON THE FINE ARTS. The following are now Ready. HE TEEASURES OF ART : Being an Account of the Chief Collections of Paintings, Sculptures, Drawings, &c., in Great Britain. By Dr. WaAGEN. Ind Thousand. 4 vols. Svo. KUGLER'S HANDBOOK OF PAINTING: tlie Italian Schools. Edited, with Notes, by Sir Charles Eastlake, R.A. Third Edition. With 150 Illustrations. " 2 vols. Post Svo. 30s. THE EAELY FLEMISH PAINTERS: their Lives and Works. By J. A. Crowe and G. B. Cavaselle, Woodcuts. Post Svo. 12s. A HANDBOOK FOR YOUNG PAINTERS. By C. R. Leslie, R.A. With Illustrations. Post Svo. 10s. Gd. HANDBOOK OF ARCHITECTURE : Being a Concise and Popular Account of the different Styles of Architecture prevailing in all Ages and all Countries. By James Fergusson. Zrd Thousand. With 850 Illus- trations. 2 vols. Svo. 36s. A BIOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF ITALIAN PAINTERS. Edited by R. N. WoRNUM. With a Chart. Post Svo. Gs. 6d. LIFE OF THOMAS STOTHARD, R.A. By Mrs. Bray. With 70 Illustrations. Small 4to. MEDIAEVAL AND MODERN POTTERY. By Joseph Marryat. With Coloured Plates and 24-0 Woodcuts. Medium Svo. 31s. 6d. ANCIENT POTTERY : Egyptian, Assyrian, Greek, Etrus- can, and Roman. By Samuel Bircu, F.S.A. With Coloured Plates and 200 Woodcuts. 2 vols. Medium Svo. 42s. AN ILLUSTRATED HANDBOOK OF THE ARTS OF THE MIDDLE AGES AND RENAISSANCE. By M. J. Labarte. With 200 Woodcuts. Svo. 18s. ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS, Historical and Romantic. Translated by J. G. Lockhart. With Coloured Borders, Woodcuts, &c. 4to. HORACE ; HIS LIFE AND WORKS By Dean Milman. With 300 Illustrations from the Antique. Svo. 30s. THE ILLUSTRATED PRAYER-BOOK. With Borders, Initial Letters, and Illustrations from the Old Masters. Svo. 21s. THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS; their Private Life, Man- ners and Customs. By Sir J. G. Wilkinson. With 500 Woodcuts. 2 vols. Post Svo. 12s. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. MUKKAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 SUNSET ANY HOUR. SCENERY, however extensive, viewed through the IMITATION SUNSET GLASSES, appears as if glowing in a beautiful Sunset. Invaluable little boons for viewing Scenery. It is better to use two Glasses — one to each eye. Post-free by return : the Pair, 36 stamps ; in best black or white ivory, 60 stamps. Single Glass, 18 and 30 stamps. G. T. MORTON, ISLINGTON GREEN, LONDON, N. These Glasses have a most beautiful effect at the Crystal Falace, inside and outside the Palace. MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY. NOTICE. r\ E. MUDIE has the pleasure to announce that the altera- • tions in progress at his Library are now stilBciently advanced to provide increased accommodation for the Subscribers and greater facilities for the rapid exchange of books. The supplies of the higher class of works, for the circulation of which the Library was originally established, are also largely increased, and will be fiu-ther augmented by the addition of more than One Hundred Thousand Volumes in the course of the present and ensuing season. 509, 510, & 511, New Oxford Street, AND 20 & 21, Museum Street, London. May, 1858. MESSRS. TURISTER AND ADAMS, Foreign Office Passport Agents, 65, King Street, Downing Street, London, EROM their thorough knowledge of the business and close proximity to the Foreign OfiSce, are enabled to transact all business connected with obtaining Passports and Visas with great despatch and entire satisfaction to their employers. Visas One Shilling each. Passports mounted in the best manner. Murray's Handbooks, Bradsbaw's Guides, Maps, &c, supplied to order. California, Mexico, Central America, Peru., Chili, Australia, and New Zealand. The shortest route to all Ports on the West Coast of North and South America, as also to Australia and New Zealand, is that vid the PANAMA RAILWAY. In Two Hours and a Half from the Atlantic to the Pacific ! Through fare, 25 dollars; children under twelve, half-price — under six, quarter price. Passengers allowed 501bs. of luggage; all above that weight 10 cents per lb. Express freight for Passenger trains 1 dollar 80 cents per cubic foot. First-class freight, comprising Merchandise, in fisxes and bales, 50 cents per cubic foot; second-class, li cent per lb.; third-class, 1 cent per lb. ; fourth-class, i cent per lb. ; fifth-class, i cent per lb. ; sixth, i cent per lb. The Steamers of the Royal Mail Company leave Southampton fortnightly for Aspinwall, and steam communication is maintained by the Pacific Mail Company between Panama and California, Mexico, Peru, and Chili, and by the Railway Company between Panama and Central America. The SALADIN Steamer also sails regularly from Liverpool — apply to Mr. Holt ; and sailing vessels from London — apply to Messrs. Oswald, Fitze, and Co. For further particulars apply to the London Agent of the Company, — 9, NEW PALACE YARD, LONDON. 34 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. OFFICIAL BY GEOEGE MEASOM. UNIFORM PRICES. In Wrapper, Is. ; or, in Cloth, Elegantly Bound, with Maps, 2s. COUTH-EASTERN RAILWAY AND ITS BRANCHES. ^ 200 Engravings. "Tliis, without exception, is the cheapest work ever Issued. How a book with 200 Engravings, all original, over 400 pages of letterpress, and a splendid Map, can be issued for a shilling will ever remain to us a mystery. Of course all our readers will, if possible, obtain a copy."— Serald. W. H. Smith and Son, London Bridge and all Stations. THE NORTHERN RAILWAY OF FRANCE, including J- SIX DAYS IN PARIS. 100 Engravings and magnificent Map. W. H. Smith and Son, London Bridge and all Stations; A. Hall, Virtue, & Co., 25, Paternoster Row, London. The Two Books together, bound and gilt, 2s. 6ci. THE GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY & its BRANCHES, -L KING'S CROSS TO YORK. 90 Engravings. " The Official Guide-book to the Great Northern Railway (Smith and Son, Strand), compiled and illustrated with 90 engravings by the fertile pencil of George Measom, is one of those amusing and indispensable companions for a long journey which beguiles its tedium, satisfies the curiosity, instructs, amuses, and delights in so eminent a degree, that in itself, and apart from its obvious uses, it cannot fail to be a reaUy inter- esting book." — Despatch, Dec. 185t. " We have found profit and pleasure in it" — Athenaum. W. H. Smith and Son, King's Cross and all Stations. THE SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY and its BRANCHES, -L including A TOPOGRAPHICAL ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 80 Engravings. "The OFFiCLiL Illustrated Guide to the London and South- Western Railway, by G. Measom, is quite a mar\<el in its way, on the score of cheapness, and will no doubt be most acceptable, not only to people travelling on the line, but to those who take an Interest in the localities through which it passes. Considering that a tourist without a guide-book is somewhat in the predicament of a sportsman in search of game without his gun, the writer has explored every nook and corner of the London and South-Westem Line, and given the public the result of his labours in the capital shilling volume before us. It is uell printed on excellent paper, and illustrated with icood engravings of more than average merit." — Illtistrated Times, July 5th, 1856. W. H. Smith and Son, Waterloo and all Stations. Mr. George Measom will feel obliged for any local information of public general interest for embodiment in future editions of the above works. 74. Chai-rington Street, St. Pancras, London, N.W, June, 1858. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35 OFFICIAL BY GEOEGE MEASOM. UNIFORM PRICES. In Wrapper, Is. ; or, in Cloth, Elegantly Bound, with Maps, 2s. ^OETH-WESTERN E AIL WAY AND ITS BRANCHES. -'-' 70 Engravings. " It is certainly the most perfect Railway Guide that has yet appeared. As an ' official ' work it has authority when speaking of the history and statistics of the line. The other information conveyed in it will be found not merely interesting, but suggestive. The pages afford abundant matter for thought and conversation ; and though all Is done briefly, yet all is done well. Few books descriptive of tours contrive to tell so much. The plan here followed is to take the main tnmk line from London to Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, and other great towns, as a basis ; describing all that is worthy of description by the way, and conducting the traveller along each branch as the points are arrived at where each branch diverges from the trunk." — AthencBum. " The Official Guide to the London and North-Western Railway is richly illustrated, and will be fomid a very useful Handbook." — The Builder. W. H. Smith and Son, Euston and all Stations on the Line. A New and Enlarged Edition in Progress, pREAT WESTERN RAILWAY AND ITS BRANCHES vT 50 Engravings. "The Illustrations are numerous, correct, and wc"! ex-^cnted, and the Information is ample, accurate, and carefully conveyed. It it worthy of patronage." — Sunday Times. " This is a little book which every traveller on the Great Western Railway should obtain. We feel great pleasure in saying a capital idea has been most ably carried out." — Morning Advertiser. Marshall and Sons, Paddington Station. THIRD EDITION OF THE BRIGHTON AND SOUTH-COAST RAILWAY, J- Including a DESCRIPTIVE GUIDE TO THE CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM, and A TOPOGRAPHICAL ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 60 Engravings, " The fact that this is the third edition of this Guide needs only to be recorded to show the appreciation, on the part of the public, of the author's labours. The manual deserved no less. It contains a great amoimt of interesting matter within small auj convenient compass, and is illustrated by some excellent woodcuts." — Athenceum. Connelly, Brighton Terminus, London Bridge ; Waterlow and Sons, London Wall ; and all Stations on the Line. %* Shortly will be issued an entirely New Edition of thit tan-k, uniform with the South- Eastern Railway Guide. Mr. George Measom will feel obliged for any local information of public general interest for embodiment in future editions of the above works. 74, CharringUm Street, St. Pancras, London, N.W. June, 1868. 36 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. LEE'S Polyglot Washing Books, (To save Travellers the trouble of trans- lating their Washing Bills) For Ladies. DITTO ForGentlemen. English <fe French. English cfc Italian. English dk German. English <fc Spanish. English <fc Portuguese. Is. each. Metallic Soap £oxes. Obtained through the medium of Bankers' Letters, carefully mounted and inserted in morocco cases, with name lettered in gold. Ambassadors' Signatures obtained to British Secretary of State's and American Passports, at One Shilling each. The latest editions of all Mcrbat's Eans-Booes. CO0BIERS, or Travelling Servants, can be obtained at Foreign Letter Paper, ExtTU Large Size, VKBY THIN, Is. per Quire. BOOKS FOR JOURNALS, &a LUGGAGE LABELS. Door Fasteners. BERRY'S PATENT INKSTANDS. Leather Money-£ags. LEE & CARTER'S GUIDE DEPOT, 440, WEST STEAND, W.C. TWO DOORS WEST OF LOWTHER ARCADE, Where an extensive Collection of Guides, Hand-Books, Maps, DicnoNAHrES, Dia- logues, Gbaiimars, Intebpbeters, &c., useful for Travellers upon the Continent and elsewhere, and much useful information conceniiug Passports, can be obtained. MURRAY'S HAND-BOOKS, rendered convenient Pocket-Books by J. Lke's limp leather binding, at 2s. additional charge. MOROCCO and RUSSIA PORTABLE ROLL-DP CASES, containing every essential for Writing. Moaxt'^ German interpreter. With the exact Pronunciation in English on a separate column, nrioe 5». cloth, 6». in leather. T LONDON: W. CLOWES AND SONS, 6TAUF0BD 8TBEEI, AND CUAIUNO CBOSS. BOOKS FOR TRAVELLERS. ^H D, University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 . Box 951388 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. 10»i-12.'67(H6886s8)9482 'S HOME AND COLONIAL Parte, 2s. 6d. each, or ble work, the hvlk of or of one trunk, suited JIBT or WOBES IROLODGD IR TBB SeRIES. ISpAiir. ^N India. Holy Land. |S OF GiBBALTAn. THE Moors. kLTia \.h AND BUNTAN. )PTH Wales. Is Drake. M OF FSKING. ts. OF Persia, pIERS. PSX'S VOTAQE. SCITS. bsD&. If Spain. F8A8 Islands. Jr A Lady. Canada. Lffghanibtar. IS. Sports. Head's Pampas Jocrnets, Ford's Spanish Gathekinos. Tub Two Sikoks of Vienna. Sketores of German Life. Melville's Sooth Skas. Gleio's Battle of Waterloo. Edward's Yoyagb cp tub Amazon. Milman's Watside Cross. Acland's Customs of India. Gleiq's Cami'aions at Washinot Ruxxon's Mexican Travels. Carnarvon's Poutuqal and Galtcva Gleio's Life of Lord Clive. Hayoarth's Bosh Life. Stefpens' Personal Advbntpres, Campbell's Essay oh Poetry. Mahon's Historical Essays. Stokers and Pokers — HiOH-WAYe AND Dry-Ways. St. John's Libyan Desert. Sierra Leonb. By a Lady. Oleio's Life of Sir Thou: Monro. Sib Eowell Bozton's Memoirs. ay carry to the fire and hold readily in your hand, are aU. A man will often look at tlvem, and be templed to luive been frightened at books of a larger iiize and of a %nce. — Db. Johnsos. /