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 HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 
 
 IN 
 
 KENT AND SUSSEX. 
 
 WITH MAP. 
 
 LONDON: 
 JOHN MUEEAY, ALBEMAELE STEEET. 
 
 1858. 
 
 The right of Translation is reserved.
 
 LONDON : PKINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, 
 AND CHARING CROSS.
 
 
 P R E F A C E. 
 
 The Handbooks for the four Counties of Kent, Sussex, Surrey, 
 and Hampshire, have been drawn up from a careful personal 
 exploration of the country, and from the most recent in- 
 formation that could be obtained. If, however, from the 
 i-apidity of change in every part of Great Britain, or other 
 causes, errors or omissions should occur, those who, from 
 living on the spot, have facile means of detecting mistakes, 
 are requested to aid in the object of obtaining a correct guide 
 for all corners of Old England by sending notice of them to 
 the Editor, care of Mr. Murray, 50 a, Albemarle Street. 
 
 a 2
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 Introduction v 
 
 Sect. I.— KENT 1 
 
 Koutes ih. 
 
 Sect. II.-SUSSEX 225 
 
 Routes ib- 
 
 Index 355
 
 INTKODUCTIOK 
 
 KENT. 
 
 Page 
 Extent and History . . . . v 
 
 Antiquities x 
 
 Products and Manufactures xiii 
 Geology and Traveller's 
 View xvii 
 
 SUSSEX. 
 
 Page 
 Extent and History . . . . xix 
 
 Antiquities xxii 
 
 Products AND Manufactures xxiv 
 Geology and Traveller's 
 View xxviii 
 
 Skeleton Tours page xxxv 
 
 KENT. 
 
 Extent and Histoet. 
 
 The couDty of Kent, the extreme soutli-eastern corner of England, 
 contains 1557 square miles, or 996,480 acres. From east to west 
 (from the Xorth Foreland to London) it " expatiateth itself," in Fuller's 
 words, into 64 miles ; from north to south (Xorth Foreland to Dunge- 
 ness) it " expandeth not above" 38 miles. Eight English counties 
 exceed it in size. 
 
 Kent, continues Fuller, " differeth not more from other shires than 
 from itself, such the variety thereof. In some jjarts of it health and 
 wealth are at many miles' distance, which in other parts are reconciled 
 to live under the same roof — I mean, abide in one place together." 
 The entire comity, the geological features of which are strongly marked, 
 is divided, according to local experience, into three very distinct dis- 
 tricts : — 1. That of " health without wealth," embracing the higher 
 parts of the Downs, which stretch in a long line across the county and 
 form what is called the "backbone of Kent:" 2. That of "wealth 
 without health ;" this consists of parts of the tree-covered Weald, of 
 Eonmey Marsh, and of the marshes along the Medway and the Swale, 
 where the pasturage is deep and rich, but where ague and low fever are 
 the common lot of the inhabitants : and 3. That in which "health and 
 wealth are reconciled to live together," covering by far the greater part of 
 the county, but best and richest in the valley of the Medway from Maid- 
 stone to Tunbridge, and in parts of the country about Canterbury. Each 
 of these districts assists in producing the diversified scenery and the 
 varied riches that still justify the encomium pronounced on the county 
 iu the ' Polyolbion ' of Michael Drayton : — 
 
 "0 famous Keut ! 
 What county liatb this isle that can compare with thee? 
 That hath within thj'sclf as much as thou can'st wish : 
 Thy ralibits, venison, fruits, thj' sorts of fowl and fish; 
 As what with strength comports, thy hay, thy corn, thj' wood, — 
 Nvi anything doth want that anywhere is good."
 
 vi Extent and History. Introd. 
 
 Notwithstanding, however, the great beauty of its scenery, it may be 
 said of Kent, as of Italy, that it is a country in which the memory and 
 the imagination see far more than the eye. It has been the scene of 
 some of the most important events in English history ; and if it be 
 true that " to have seen the place where a great event happened — to 
 have seen the picture, the statue, the tomb of an illustrious man, is 
 the next thing to being present at the event in person — to seeing 
 the scene with oiu" own eyes " {Stanley) — there is no part of Eng- 
 land which will more richly repay the attention of the historian or 
 the tourist. The position of Kent, at the narrowest part of the 
 Channel, brought its inhabitants, from the earliest times, into closer 
 connection with those on the opposite mainland, and made it the scene of 
 three important landings, each of them a landmark in the history of Eng- 
 land: that of Caesar (b.c. 55), which united the "remote Britain" with the 
 great world of Kome and prepared it for the changes which were to fol- 
 low; that of the first Saxons (generally dated A. D. 449), which introduced 
 the Teutonic element, and laid the foundations of " this happj' breed of 
 men, this earth, this England ;" and that of Augustine (a.d. 597), who 
 brouglit with him Christianity, and from the results of whose mission 
 "has, by degrees, arisen the whole constitution of Clmrch and State in 
 Enaland which now binds together the whole British emi lire." The land- 
 ing of Cajsar has usually been fixed at Deal (Rte. 10) ; and notwithstanding 
 the interesting paper of Professor Airey (^Arcliaoloyia, xxxvi), who has 
 endeavoured to support the claims of Pevensey in Sussex, it is probable 
 that the Kentish coast between Walmer and Thanet will still be re- 
 garded as the actual scene of the invasion. The historical character of 
 the second landing — that of Hengist and Horsa, which, according to 
 the Saxon Chronicle, took place in the year 449 at Yi^winc's fleot (no 
 doubt Ebbsfleet, in T'hanet) — is considered as more than doubtful by 
 Lappenberg (Anglo-Sax. Hist.), by Kemble (Saxons in England), and 
 by Mr. Wright (Celt, Roman, and Saxon), but has found a champion 
 of no ordinary ability in Dr. Guest, whose essay on the Early English 
 Settlements in South Britain, published in the Proceedings of the 
 Archceological Institute (Salisburj^ volume), is entitled to the fullest 
 consideration. It is at least certain that some of the earliest settlements 
 of the Saxons in Britain were made in the Isle of Thanet and on the 
 adjacent mainland, although the exact period at which they occurred, 
 and the manner in which they were efl'ected, must possibly be allowed 
 to remain nndecided. 
 
 Some of the most important Eoman remains in the island still attest 
 the occupation of Kent by the " terrarum domini" during a period of 
 four centuries (a.d. 1-400), but no historical events of consequence 
 are recordetl as having occurred here, although it is probable that during 
 the later years of Eoman rule, and especially under the famous 
 Carausius (287-293), the coasts and strongholds of Kent were among 
 the most frequented and important in Roman Britain. It was at this 
 period that the great fortresses of the Saxon shore (Richborough, Rte. 
 10 ; Reculver, Rte. 9 ; Lymne, Rte. 7} were either first constructed or
 
 Kent. Extent and History. vii 
 
 were materially strengthened, so as to afford some protection against 
 the invading Saxons, whose ships were already hovering about the 
 white cliffs and green marshes of " Kent-land." 
 
 For elaborate discussions on the character of their early settlements, 
 and of the religion they brought with them, traces of which may still 
 be found throughout the county, the reader should have recourse to 
 'KcmbXe^s Saxons in En<jland(Yo\. i. and Appendix). Like the Romans, 
 the Saxon settlers retained the ancient name of the province — a word, no 
 doubt, of Celtic origin — which is exjilaiued by Dr. Guest as the " Caint " 
 (Brit.) or "open countrj^" lying along the sea-shore and the Thames, 
 m opposition to the great forest (the Andred's Wood) which covered 
 the interior. Kent seems to have been at first divided into a number 
 of small independent districts or " kingdoms," which graduall3' united 
 under a single ruler. This " kingdom of Kent " continued to exist, 
 with varying fortunes and with a varying inland border, until about 
 the year 823. Baldred, the last king of Kent, was driven from his 
 throne by Egbert, King of the West Saxons, and the first so-called 
 " Monarch of all Britain." The earlier kings of Kent had been the 
 most powerful princes of Saxon England. For notices of the baptism 
 of Ethelbert by Augustine see Rte. 9 (the Isle of Thanet) and lite. 8 
 (Canterbury). For all that is known on the suliject, however, the 
 reader sliuuld here be referred to Mr. Stanley's deeply interesting paper 
 on the ' Landing of Augustine ' (Hist. Memon'ah of Canterhury) ; to 
 Kemble's Saxons in England, vol. ii. ch. 8 ; and to Dr. Milman's 
 Hist, of Latin Cliristianity, vol. i. 
 
 A remarkable tradition (see Sivanscomhe, Ete. 2) asserts that as the 
 Conqueror was advancing into Kent, after the battle of Hastings, he was 
 encountered by certain of the inhabitants, who repeated the stratagem of 
 Birnara Wood. They advanced, it is said, under a cover of moving 
 boughs, and presented so formidable a front as to compel William to 
 confirm to their land the territorial privileges or immunities which in 
 some measure it still enjoys. It is possible that the continued exist- 
 ence of the custom of " gavelkind" in Kent gave rise to this tradition, 
 which is referred to by no chronicler imtil long after the time of the 
 Conquest. By the custom of gavelkind — certainly of Saxon origin and 
 still prevailing in many parts of Kent — the lands were divided equally 
 among the children at their father's death, the youngest keeping the 
 " hearth." The bodies of Kentish men were said to be free, and 
 they might give and sell their lands without licence (which feudal 
 holders could not do), " saving unto their lords the rent and services 
 due " {gafol, A.-S., rent, hence the name of the custom). Tliey might 
 sell their land at 15 years of age, and it could not be escheated (for- 
 feited) for felony. Hence the old Kentish rhyme — 
 
 " The father to the bough, 
 And the son to tlie plough ;" 
 
 meaning that, although the father had been hung, the son might still
 
 viii Extent and History. Introd. 
 
 till liis ground in peace. This especial privilege seems always to have 
 been peculiar to Kent ; the others prevailed to a very large extent in 
 other parts of England in diflerent customary tenures. The custom of 
 partition according to this system of gavelkind exists in the immediate 
 vicinity of London, and gives its name to the manor or township of 
 Kentish Town. 
 
 The extent of laiid still remaining subject to this custom in Kent is 
 uncertain. The lands of numerous proprietors were disgavelled by 
 Acts of Parliament between the reigns of Henry VII. and James I., and 
 much gavelkind land belonging to the Church had, at an earlier period, 
 been changed by special grant from the Crown into holdings by mihtary 
 tenure or knight's service. In spite of these changes, however, it is 
 asserted that as much land is at present subject to the control of the 
 custom as there was before the disgavelling statutes were made (Sandys' 
 Consuetudincs Cantict}. 
 
 Kent, wliich during the half century before the Conquest had formed 
 one of the great Saxon earldoms, and had been ruled by the house 
 of Godwin (whose name has become connected with that of the Goodwin 
 sands, and figures in other traditions of Kent and Surrey), continued to 
 give its name to a succession of great Norman lords after its inhabitants 
 had proffered their fealty to the " alien king." Odo de Bayeux was the 
 first Norman earl ; and his immediate successors were William de Ypres 
 (founder of the tower at Eye, see Sussex, Ete. 13) and Hubert de 
 Burgh, — the " gentle Hubert " of Shakspeare's King John, whose life 
 was one long romance, and whose resolute defence of Dover Castle 
 against Lewis of France saved the countrj^ in all probabilitj', from the 
 accession of a French dj-nasty. The earldom of Kent subsequently 
 passed to Edmund of Woodstock, second son of Edward I., and then to 
 his three children, the last of whom, Joan Plantagenet, the " Fair Maid 
 of Kent,'' was wife of the Black Prince and mother of Richard II. She 
 had been already married to Sir Tliomas Holland, whose descendants 
 succeeded as Earls of Kent until the extinction of the male line in the 
 9th year of Henry IV. William Neville, second son of the first Neville 
 Earl of Westmoreland, was created Earl of Kent by Edward IV., and, on 
 his death without issue, Edmund Grey, Lord Hastings, in whose house 
 the earldom continued until the death, in 1740, of Henry Grey, 13th 
 Earl, who was created Duke of Kent by Queen Anne in 1710. The 
 titles of Earl and Duke of Kent then became extinct, and the latter 
 was only revived for the fourth son of George III., the father of her 
 present Majesty. 
 
 The great event in Kentish history after the Conquest is the murder 
 of Becket in his own cathedral at Canterbury on Tuesday, Dec. 29th, 
 1170. For the minutest details respecting it, the reader will, of course, 
 consult Mr. Stanley's ' Historical Memorials of Canterhury.'' The 
 shrine of the aichbishop rose into equal importance with the most 
 venerated spots on the continent of Europe, and long strings of pil- 
 
 " The holy blisful martyr for to seeke," —
 
 Kent. Extent and History. ^ ix 
 
 landed at every Kentish port, and found their way alonp; the solitary 
 hill crests, and through the wild forest country which then stretched 
 away from Canterbury towards London. The reputation of the great 
 shrine of St. Thomas materially afiected the fortunes not only of Can- 
 terbury but of all Kent ; and although Dover and Sandwich, before the 
 existence of the shrine as well as after its fall, were and continued to be 
 the principal landing-places from Picardy and Flanders, their daj's of 
 highest prosperity were those in which shiploads of ordinary pilgrims 
 were constantly arriviug at them, and when — a more important but 
 frequent event — great personages — emperors of the East and West, kings 
 of France or earls of Flanders — landed at them with their trains, on their 
 waj' to perform their vows belbre the famous shrine at Canterlniry. The 
 harbours of Kent — Sandwich, Hythe, and Eomney — the Cincpie Port 
 successors of the castles presided over by the Count of the Saxon Shore 
 (see Ete. 7) — became gi-adually silted i^p by the action of the tide, and 
 l)artly perhaps owing to an unskilful system of drainage and embank- 
 ment. Dover alone, by the middle of the 17th century, remained free 
 and accessible; and, from its position at the narrowest part of the 
 Straits, has always continued the favourite landing-place from the Con- 
 tinent. The branch of tlie ancient \Yatling-street which extends from 
 Dover to Canterbury, and tlience by Faversham and Eochester to 
 London, was the road followed by nearly all travellers from the days 
 of the Eomans, imtil the formation of the South-Eastern Eailway 
 diverted them into another track. The East Kent Eailway, however, 
 not yet completed, follows much of the line of the ancient road ; and 
 the tourist, as he flies through that " paradise of hops and high pro- 
 duction," may comp'are the scene as it now exists with the following 
 description by Sorbiere in 1663 : — 
 
 " Kent apjiears to me to be a very fine and fruitful country, especially 
 in apples and cherries, and the trees, which are planted in rows every- 
 where, make, as it were, a continued train of gardens. The country 
 mounts up into little hills, and the valleys are beautified with an 
 eternal verdure ; and the grass here seemed to me to be finer and of a 
 better colour than in other places, and therefore 'tis fitter to make those 
 parterres, some of which are so even that they bowl upon them as easily 
 as on a great billiard-table. And as this is the usual diversion of gentle- 
 men in the country, they have thick rolling-stones to keep the green 
 smooth. All the country is full of parks, which yield a delightful 
 prospect, and where you may see large herds of deer ; but their gardens 
 have no other ornaments than these greens ; and the best castles 
 (chateaux) you meet with are not to be compared with the least of 
 above four thousand pleasure-houses j'ou have about Paris. However, 
 it must be confessed, the eye cannot but be much delighted with the 
 natural and even neglected beauty of the countrj^ and tlie English have 
 reason to value it. For when Ch'ment VL gave the Fortunate Islands 
 to Lewis of Bavaria's son, and that they beat the drum to raise men in 
 Italy for that expedition, the English ambassador who was then at 
 Eome was presently alarmed and left the place, as supposing this expe- 
 
 a 3
 
 X Antiquities. Tntrod. 
 
 dition could be designed against no other country bnt his. It's so 
 covered with trees that it looks like a forest when yon view it from an 
 eminence, by reason of the orchards and quickset hedges which enclose 
 the arable lands and meadows." — Voyage to England. 
 
 Admiration of bright Englisli turf, and glorification of " nous autres," 
 are characteristics of most French travellers in England. It must be 
 admitted, however, that few country houses of importance are within 
 sight on the Watling-street — the road which Sorbiere followed, and the 
 only part of Kent which he saw. But he might have admired what 
 could then have been rivalled in no part of Europe — the wealth and 
 substantial comforts of the Kentish farmS : — 
 
 " A Reiitleman of Wales, a knight of Cales, 
 
 And a laird of Uie North Countrie : 
 A yeoman of Kent, \vith liis yearly rent, 
 
 Will buy them out all three." 
 
 AilTIQUITIES. 
 
 The usual divisions may "be adopted in noticing the antiquities of 
 Kent : Prima3val or British ; Roman ; Saxon ; and Mediaeval, — em- 
 bracing ecclesiastical, militar}^, and domestic buildings. 
 
 In remains of the first or British period Kent is not remarkably rich, 
 although there are a few in the county of considerable interest. The 
 most important is Kifs Coity House (Rte. 5), a large cromlech on 
 the hill above Aylesford. This is, no doubt, a sepulchral structure 
 of the same character as those common in more thoi'oughly Celtic dis- 
 tricts : but it derives an especial interest from the local traditions 
 which have been attached to it, and which connect it with the first 
 battles of the invading Saxons. There is reason to believe that it 
 stands in the midst of a great necropiolis of the British period, since the 
 surrounding hills are covered with graves ; and parallel rows of stones, 
 resembling what have elsewhere been called " Dracontia," or serpent 
 temples, have been traced across the Medway in the direction of Ad- 
 dington and Ryarsh, w^here are some large earthen mounds and so- 
 called " Druidical " circles, well worth attention. For ample notices of 
 all these remains see Rte. 5. 
 
 Camps or earthworks, which may possibly be of the British period, 
 are found in different parts of the county. None of these, however, are 
 so remarkable as the deep excavations occurring in various parts of the 
 chalk district, but j^rincipally along the banks of the Thames and Med- 
 way. See, for detailed accounts of them. East Tilhn-y (Rte. 1), Cray- 
 ford and Dartford (Rte. 2), and Chislehurst (Rte. 6). They are 
 commonly known as " Danes' Pits," and are traditionally said to have 
 been made for purposes of concealment during the period of the Danish 
 ravages. That they may have been used in this manner is very pro- 
 bable (see East Tilhiry, Rte. 1), bnt it is certain that chalk was largely 
 exported from Britain during the Roman period (and possibly before it), 
 and it seems to bo now generally admitted that the excavations are
 
 Kent. Antiquities. xi 
 
 those of the ancient quarriers. The British chulk was conveyed from 
 the Thames to Zealand as the staple, whence it passed to the interior of 
 the Continent. On the coasts of Zealand, according to Keyssler, 
 numerons altars to Nehalennia, the patroness of tlie chalk-wor]<ers, 
 have been fonnd lodged in the sand, some of which hear votive inscrip- 
 tions from dealers in British chalk. (Antiq. Septenfrionales.) 
 
 Of the Roman jieriod Kent can show some of the most interesting 
 relics in Britain. The county was evidently rich in villas, ranged on 
 either side of the Watling-street ; and the walls of many of its ancient 
 churches still bear witness to the wealth of Roman brick and tile which 
 the first Cliristian builders found at their disposal. The valley of the 
 Medway (Itte. 5) was another great centre of Roman life, and there is 
 scarcely a field or a hill-side throughout the whole distance between 
 Rochester and Maidstone which does not contain some traces of ancient 
 abodes and civilization. No rich pavements, however, such as those of 
 Sussex and Gloucestershire, have as j'et been discovered in Kent, 
 although so wealthy and beautiful a province can hardly have been 
 without villas as stately as those at Bignor or at Woodchester. The 
 plough may yet strike up their remains by some fortunate chance. 
 
 Extensive potteries of the Roman ])eriod existed at I'lichurch (Rte. 4) 
 and at Dimcharch in Romney Marsh (Rte. 13). An examination of the 
 site of the first of these will amply rei)ay the archa'ologist. Great quan- 
 tities of pottery are still to be found in the Upcliurch marshes, including 
 many perfect vessels. The manufacture here was of a coarse kind of 
 ware, although the forms aie always good. 
 
 The grand relics of imperial Rome, however, which still exist in 
 Kent, and which are at least as impressive as any that remain else- 
 where, are those of the strong fortresses, anciently under the jurisdiction 
 of the Count of the Saxon Shore, — Richborough, the ancient Rutui^ia? 
 (Rte. 10) ; Reculver, or Regulbiuni (Rte. 9) ; and Lymue, or Portus 
 Lemanis (Rte. 7). It is unnecessary to repeat here what will be found 
 with ample detail in the routes indicated above. Every archaeologist 
 who visits this j)art of En'j;land should make a point of seeing these 
 remains ; and the ordinar}- tourist will find the mouldering walls of 
 Richborough, at all events, full of interest. The best (and a vcrj'- excel- 
 lent) book on the subject, containing all that has been ascertained by 
 research or local ex|iloration respecting these fortresses, is ' The An- 
 thquities of liichhoroKgh, Bfculvcr, and Lyinne, by Charles Roach 
 Smith : London, J. R. Smith, 1850.' 
 
 Besides these remains, the Pharos at Dover (Rte. 7) should here be 
 mentioned. 
 
 The Sa.ion relics, in which Kent Ims been, and is, especially rich, are 
 for the most p.nrt hidden beneath the soil. The graves of the earliest 
 Teutonic colonists were first explored, on any large scale, by the Rev. 
 Bryan Faussett, of He])pington, near Canterbury, toward the end of the 
 last century ; and liis researches have Vieen fallowed i\\\ of late years, 
 with most successful results by Mr. Rolfe of Sandwich, Mr. Wright, 
 and Mr. C. R. Smith, Unhappily neither Kent nor even London can
 
 xii Antiquities. lutrod. 
 
 boast of retaining the most interesting collections of personal ornaments, 
 weapons, glass, and pottery, which have been brought to light from 
 these " naiTOw houses " of the dead. The museums both of Mr. Faus- 
 sett and (it is understood) of Mr. Eolfe are now in the possession of 
 Mr. Meyer, of Liverpool. A few Saxon relics, however, of much 
 interest, may be seen in the Museum at Canterbury (lite. 8). A 
 descriptive catalogue of the Faussett collection has been drawn up and 
 printed by Mr. C. R. Smith ; and in the same writer's ' Colkctmwu 
 Antiqua^ and Mr. Wright's ' Cdt, lioman, and Sua'on,^ will be found 
 notices of many of the most important discoveries of Mr. Eolfe. 
 
 The sites of the principal Anglo-Saxon cemeteries in Kent hitherto 
 discovered are the hill of Osengal, near Ramsgate (Kte. 9), and Gilton, 
 in the parish of Ash (Rte. 10). Numerous barrows, however, in various 
 parts of the county have been opened with successful results ; and it is 
 probable that many valuable " hoards " still remain to reward the zeal 
 of the archaeologist. 
 
 In the riches of medicrval architecture Kent need fear a comparison 
 with no other county. The following are the churches which will best 
 repay the attention of the tourist : — 
 
 Saxon. — Rte. 2 : Swanscombe. Rte. 7 : part of the church in Dover 
 Castle. 
 
 Norman. — Rte. 2 : Darent ; Rochester Cathedral (nave). Rte. 4 : 
 Davington ; Bapchild ; Harbledown. Rte. 7 : Paddlesworth ; St. Maiy's, 
 Doverr Rte. 9 : Minster (nave). Rte. 10 : Walmer ; Betshanger ; 
 Sutton ; St. Margaret's at Cliff. Rte. 11 : Patrixbourne ; Barfreston. 
 All of these are interesting ; but Darent, St. Margaret's at Cliff, Patrix- 
 bourne, and especially Barfreston, are very remarkable examples. 
 
 Transition Norman. — Rte. 8 : Canterbury Cathedral (choir, very 
 fine). 
 
 Uarly Enfjlish. — Rte. 2 : Horton Kirkby ; Rochester Cathedral (tran- 
 septs and choir) ; Chalk. Rte. 4 : Faversham ; Graveney. Rte, 5 : 
 Lenham. Rte. 7 : Hythe ; Folkestone. Rte. 8 : Westwell (where is 
 some fine E. E. glass) ; St. Martin's, Canterbury. Rte. 9 : Heme ; 
 Minster (transepts and choir) ; St. Nicholas at Wade. Rte. 10 : St. 
 Clement's, Sandwich (the tower is Norman) ; Ash ; Great Mongeham ; 
 Northbourne. Rte. 11 : Bridge. 
 
 Decorated. — Rte. 1 : Stone. Rte. 7 : Hever ; Sandhurst. Rte. 8 : 
 Chilham ; Chartham. Rte. 11 : Barham. Of these churches. Chart- 
 ham deserves the most particular attention. 
 
 Perpendicular. — Rte. 5 : All Saints, Maidstone. Rte. 6 : Chisle- 
 hurst ; Sevcnoaks. Rte. 7 : Nettlested, where is some very fine Perp. 
 glass; Cranbrook ; Tenterden ; Ash ford ; Aldington. Rte. 8 : Canter- 
 bury Cathedral (nave). Rte. 10 : Wingham. Rte. 11 : Bishopsbourne. 
 
 Of other ecclesiastical buildings and remains, the most noticeable 
 are : — Rte. 5 : Mailing Abbey, chiefly E. E. Rte. 7 : Horton Priory, 
 where are some Trans. Norm, fragments ; the remains of a Prece])- 
 toryof Knights Hospitallers at Swingfield, — Trans. Norm. ; St. Martin's. 
 Priory, Dover, E. E. and interesting. Rte. 8 : The remains of the
 
 Kent. Products and Manvfactures. xiii 
 
 Priory of Christ Clnirch, Canterbiirj^- — Xorman, including a staircase 
 which is probably unique ; the gateway and remains of St. Augustine's 
 Abbey, Canterbury, — Early Dec. ; remains of the Dominican Convent, 
 Canterbury, — E. E. 
 
 The principal relics of military architecture in Kent are : — Ete. 2 : 
 Eochester Castle, — Norm, and very fine. Etc. 5 : AUington Castle, 
 near Maidstone, — for the most part Perp. ; Leeds Castle, — Dec. and 
 Perp., and of high interest. Pite. 7 : Hever, — Perp. ; Tunbridge, — 
 Dec. ; Westenhanger, — Dec. ; Saltwood, — Perp. ; and Dover Castle, — 
 Nomi. to Perp., one of the most important and interesting remains in 
 England. Pite. 8 : Canterbury Castle, — Norm. 
 
 Of doviestic architecture, the Kentish illustrations, although nume- 
 rous, are perhaps not so fine as those supplied by soiue other counties. 
 Many of them, liowever, possess an historical interest which can hardly 
 be exceeded. The principal are : — Pite. 2 : Cobham, near Eochester, — 
 partly Elizabethan, partly the work of Inigo Jones : the house contains 
 a superb collection of pictures. Ete. 5 : Eattle Hall, Leeds, — a small 
 building of the 14th cent. Ete. 6 : The hall of Eltham Palace, — temp. 
 Edw. IV. ; Knole, near Sevenoaks, the earliest portions of which are of 
 the 15th cent., but the great mass of the first part of the 17th, — the 
 house retains its old furniture and pictures, and is of very unusual 
 interest; Sore Place, dating about 1300, very curious and well deserving 
 notice ; the Moat, dating partly from the reign of Edw. II., — in some 
 respects an unique example. Ete. 7 : Penshurst, the old seat of the 
 Sidneys, — of various dates, and perhaps the most interesting house in 
 the connty ; East Sutton Place, — Elizabethan ; and Boughtou Place, 
 of the same period. Ete. 8 : Chilham, — temp. Jas. I., and fine. 
 
 Products and Manufactures. 
 
 Among the " natural commodities " of Kent, as old Fuller calls them, 
 two require especial mention here — cherries and hops. 
 
 It is probable that one species of the cherry (Prunvs avium) was 
 indigenous in this country, although varieties of the P. cerasus, a native 
 of the forests on the southern slopes of the Caucasus, may have been intro- 
 duced by the Eomans at an early period. The cherry was, at all events, 
 one of the fruits cultivated in Kent througliout the middle ages, although 
 the extent of cultivation had mucli diminished, and the quality of the 
 fruit much deteriorated, when Eichard Hareys, fruiterer to Henry VIIL, 
 introduced fresh grafts and varieties from Flanders, and planted about 
 105 acres at Teynham, near Faversham (see Ete. 4), from which 
 cherry orchard much of Kent was afterwards supplied. " I have read," 
 says Fuller, " that one of the orchards of tliis primitive plantation, con- 
 sisting but of thirty acres, ]iroduced fruit of one year sold for lOOOZ. . . 
 No English fruit is dearer than those at first, cheaper at last, pleasanter 
 at all times ; nor is it less wholesome than delicious. And it is much 
 that, of so many feeding so freely on them, so few are found to surfeit."
 
 xiv Products and Manufactures. Introd. 
 
 Accidents do occur, however, as in the unhappy case recorded on a 
 tombstone in Plvimsti'ad churchyard : — 
 
 " Weep not for me, my parents dear; 
 There is no witness wanted here. 
 The hammer of death was p;iven to me, 
 For eating the cherries ofl' the tree." 
 
 According to Busino, Venetian ambassador in the reign of James I., 
 it was a favourite amusement in the Kentish gardens to try who could 
 eat most cherries. In tliis w^ay, one young woman managed to dis[)0se 
 of 20 lbs., beating her opponent by 2^ lbs. A severe illness was the 
 not unnatural result, — indeed, the " hammer of death " might have 
 been reasonably expected. 
 
 Busino finds fault with the English cherries, which are, however, 
 praised by Fynes Morison. The varieties now grown in Kent probably 
 exceed in number and in flavour any to be met with elsewhere. The 
 chief orchards are in the parishes on the borders of the Thames, the 
 Darent, and tlie Medway ; and in early spring, when 
 
 " Sweet is the air with the budding haws ; and the valley stretching for miles below 
 Is white with blossoming cherry-trees, as if just covered with lightest snow," 
 
 — the beauty of the scene recalls, though it can hardly rival, that of 
 the apple orcliards of Devonshire. 
 
 By far the most im[)ortant " natural commodity " of Kent, however, 
 is the hop {Hamulus hipulus), which, first regularly cultivated in this 
 coimtry toward the beginning of the IGth cent., has long since become 
 one of the great English crops. The plant is indigenous throughout 
 Eurojie and the north of Asia, and was certainly used by the Celts and 
 Teutons in the preparation of their beer. It was unknown to both 
 Greeks and Romans (De CandoUe, Oeographie Botanique). At what 
 period it first began to be cultivated is uncertain, although it has been 
 regularly grown and cared for in Central Europe for several centuries. 
 The hop, however (although a native i)lant — its British name was 
 Uewig y blaidd, "bane of the wolf"), was not grown in England until 
 the early part of the reign of Henry Vlll., when the best varieties were 
 introduced from the Low Countries ; and by the latter end of the 
 century lieynolde Scot, a Kentishman, and author of the ' Discovery of 
 Witchcraft,' was able to speak of Kent, in his ' Perfite Platforme of a 
 Hoppe Garden,' as the great county of hops. The system of cultivation 
 has changed very little since then, and has been so well described by 
 an " eminent hand " — itself one of the " illustrations " of Kent — 
 (Household Words, vol. vi.), that we cannot do better than appropriate 
 that account. 
 
 There are about GO,000 acres of hop plantations in England, of which 
 nearly half are in Kent. The best and the greatest number of hops 
 are grown in the parish of East Farleigh, near Maidstone, where " the 
 luxuriance of hops is a jiuzzle to theoretical agriculturists. ' "^I'hougli 
 rich mould,' says Bannister, ' generally produces a larger growth of
 
 Kent. Products and Ilanufactures. xv 
 
 hops than other soils, there is ove exception to this rule, where the 
 growth is frequently eit^hteeu or twenty hundred jier acre. 'J'his is the 
 neighbourhood of Maidstone, a kind of slaty ground with an nnder- 
 stratum of stone. There the vines run up to the top of the longest 
 poles, and the increase is equal to the most fertile soil of any kind.' " 
 Besides this neighbourhood, the country between Faversham and Can- 
 terbury, and that bordering the South-Easteru llaihvay between God- 
 stone and Ashford, are the principal Kentish hop districts ; but the 
 hop-grounds are scattered over the entire county, and there is hardly 
 a parish, except in the marshes, which is quite without them. 
 
 Wherever they are grown in England, hops are trained on poles, 
 which stand in groups of 3 or 4, at a distance of aboi;t 6 or 7 ft. apart ; 
 and nearly 3000 (worth about lol.) are required for an acre of ground. 
 The female hop alone is cultivated : the male, commonly called the 
 " blind," hop being of no value ; " although it is said that, if tiie male 
 hop were excluded from the garden, the flowers throughout the ground 
 would be wanting in that yellow powder called the ' farina ' or 'con- 
 dition,' which is their chief value. For this reason, one male hop-plant 
 in every hundred groups is generally planted." There are many 
 varieties of the cultivated hop, the best and most luxuriant of which is 
 known as " Golding's." 
 
 Ko cro]) whatsoever is so precarious as that of the hop, and the 
 steadiest of growers is com])elled to look on his business as a sjiecies of 
 gambling rather than as a legitimate branch of husbandry. " In the 
 warm nights of early summer, when the bine will grow an inch within 
 an hour, fleas and firebh\sts threaten it. When the clusters hang so 
 large and full that everybody (but the wary) prophesies tlie duty will 
 reach an enormous figure, Eeyjitian plagues of green or long-winged 
 flies, coming from no one knows where, may settle on it, and in a single 
 night turn flower and leaf as black as if thej' had been half consumed 
 by fire. ' Honey-dew ' may fall upon it, and prove no less destructive. 
 Red spiders, otter moths, and the ' vermin ' which spring from their 
 eggs, may any day sit down, iminvited, to a banquet costing a couple of 
 million sterling to the Kentish growers alone. Any cold autumn night, 
 ' when the breath of winter comes from far away,' maj^ blight them ; 
 and, finally, mould may suddenl}^ eat up every vestige of flower while 
 the hops are waiting for the picker." It is owing to this extreme pre- 
 cariousness of the cropj that the amount of duty annually declared by 
 the Excise, in respect of all the hops gathered throughout the country, 
 has become as completely a subject; for wagers as tl:e probable winner 
 of the Derby or the St. Leger. This gambling extends to all classes in 
 the hop districts. Almost every tradesman and boy has his " book," or 
 his chance in some "hop club;" and on the publication of the duty 
 many thousands of pounis change liands. 
 
 Toward the latter end of August and the beginning of September 
 " hop-picking " commences. This is the first jirocess in the saving of 
 the crop; and few scenes are more ])icturesque than that atlorded by 
 every Kentish hop-ground during the picking season. Men, women,
 
 xvi Products and Manufactures. Introd. 
 
 and cLiklron are all employed. " Labourers, costermongers, factory- 
 girls, shirt-makers, tishermeu's boys, jolly young watermen, and even 
 clerks out of employment, all throng the Kentish highways at this 
 time, attracted by the opportunity of earning a couple of shillings per 
 day ; and still the cry is more, and the farmer in plentiful seasons is 
 frequently embarrassed for want of hands." The work is said to be 
 especially healthy and strengthening, owing to the tonic properties of 
 the hop ; and invalids are occasionally recommended to pass whole daj'S 
 in the hop-grounds as a substitute — and a very efficient one — for the 
 usual " exhibition " of Bass or AUsop. Whole armies of pickers encamp 
 at night in the neighbourhood of the grounds. " In huts and stables 
 and outhouses, in abandoned mills, in crumbling barns and dilapidated 
 oast-liouses whose cracks are ineffectually stufied with straw and clay, 
 under pents, against walls, in tents and under canvas awnings, this 
 multitnde cook, eat, drink, smoke, and sleep." Many of these (though 
 fewer than formerly) are Irish, and serious scenes of riot and disturb- 
 ance occasionally occur at the hop-pickings. 
 
 The hop cutter, armed with an instrument called a " hop-dog," which 
 has a hook on one side and a knife on the other, cuts the bine about 
 the roots, and then, hooking up pole, bine, and all, lays it across the 
 picker's bins. " Down comes a hop-pole, and away goes a swift hand 
 up it, plucking the flowers into a canvas bin upon a wooden frame, 
 carefuU}' avoiding the leaves till it gets near the top of the pole, when, 
 with one stroke, it rubs off all that remain, the few little green leaves 
 at top doing no harm. The pole, with the bine stripped of its flowers, 
 is then thrown aside, just as the cutter, who lias served 8 or 9 in the 
 interval, drops another pole across the bin. Each of these bins holds 
 15 or 20 bushels, which is as much as the fastest hand can pick in a 
 day. The lower jaarts of the poles, which are rotted by being in the 
 earth, are then cut away, and the poles will be carefully stacked to 
 serve for shorter plants next year." 
 
 After picking, the hops are removed to the " oast-houses," in which 
 they are dried. These are for the most part built of bricks, and per- 
 fectly circular up to a height of 14 or 15 ft., whence they terminate in 
 a cone, surmounted by a cowled chimney, peculiarly shaped, to allow 
 the vapour from the hops to escape. " C)ast " is said (hut very impro- 
 bably, although we are unable to give a more certain explanation) to be 
 a corruption of the Flemish word " buys " — a house, the first " driers " 
 having been introduced from Flanders at the same time as the hops 
 themselves. In the lower part of the oast-house, toward the centre of 
 a small circular chamber, is the furnace, in which burns a clear fire of 
 coke and charcoal. Into this some rolls of brimstone are thrown from 
 time to time, the vapour from which gives a livelier colour to the hops, 
 and is everywhere (except at P'arnham, in Surrey) adopted. The pur- 
 chaser is, of course, aware that the colour is produced with brimstone ; 
 " but he does not care how you do it, so that the hops look bright." 
 The fire is sometimes enclosed in a sort of oven, and so quite hidden ; 
 and sometimes is placed in a brick stove with apertures for the escape
 
 Kent. Geology and Tmveller's View. xvii 
 
 of heat, contrived by omitting a brick here and there. These apertures 
 are mysteriously called "horses." 
 
 Above the furnace, and accessible by a ladder from without, are the 
 drying-room and cooling-floor. " On a circular floor, about 56 ft. in 
 circumference, formed of strong wire-netting and covered with coarse 
 hair-cloth, through which the warm air ascends, the hop-flowers lie to 
 a depth of 2 or 3 ft. 1050 lbs. weight of green hops are here drying at 
 once ; but through the little aperture at the top of this sugar-loaf 
 chamber some 850 lbs. of this weight will evaporate into air, so that a 
 day's work of the fastest picker, weighing 100 lbs. when green, will 
 scarcely weigh 20 when dry. The air is only moderately warm ; but 
 the grower, by long experience (for nothing else will make a hop-drier), 
 knows without any thermometer that it is exactly the proper heat — 
 considering the weather, the state of the hops, and a dozen other things. 
 The drying never ceases during the time of picking, and is one of the 
 most difficult branches of the preparation. A man must watch them 
 day and night, turning them frequently until the stalks look shrivelled, 
 and, burying his arms" deep in the hops, he feels them to be dry. This 
 is generally after 8 or 12 hours' drying, after which they are shovelled 
 through the little door on to the adjoining cooling-floor to make room 
 for more." 
 
 On the cooling- floor the hojis are tightly wedged into their " pockets," 
 and every pocket, before removal, is weighed by a supervisor of Excise, 
 who numbers each, marks the weight, adds his ovra name and parish, 
 and finally makes a black cross upon the seam at the mouth of the 
 sack to prevent frauds on the Government by afterwards squeezing in 
 more hops. This is called " sealing " the pocket. In six months after 
 the crop is got in the " old " duty is payable, one penny and twelve- 
 twentieths of a farthing on each pound weight. The " new " duty of 
 three farthings and eight-twentieths of a farthing (making up twopence) 
 and the additional duty of 5 per cent, will not be applied for till long 
 after the next year's hops are picked. 
 
 The single manufacture in the county which requires notice here is 
 that of paper in all its varieties, the first mills for the production of 
 which were established at Dartford by Sir John Spielman early m the 
 reign of Elizabeth (see Dartford, Kte. 2). Numerous mills now exist 
 on the Darent and the Medway, the most important being those of 
 the Messrs, Balston, near Maidstone. 
 
 Geology and Traveller's View. " 
 
 Five parallel geological belts, of varying widths and outlines, extend 
 throughout the county of Kent in a direction ranging from N.W. to 
 S.E. 'J"he first, stretching from London to the Isle of Thanet, and 
 embracing the Isle of Sheppcy, is a tertiary formation, consisting partly 
 of plastic and partly of London clay, and is, in fact, a continuation of
 
 xviii Geology and Travellers View. Introd. 
 
 the so-called basin of London. The second belt, that of the chalk, is a 
 continuation of the North Downs, and extends from the border of 
 Surrey to the eastern coast, widening as it advances, and forming a 
 broad mass of cliti— " the white walls of Albion "—between Foll^estone 
 and Walnier. A low, marsliy coast stretches from Walmer to tlie Isle 
 of Thanet, where the challv reap[iears and forms the fine promontory of 
 the North Foreland. The chalk intrudes on the first or tertiary belt, 
 through the valleys of the Uarent and the Medway, and extends in a 
 thin line along the bank of the Thames from Greenwich to Gravesend. 
 The third and fourth belts (tlie first very narrow, the second of some- 
 what greater widtli) consist of tlie gault and lower greensand group, 
 both underliers of the clialk. 'Hie fifth belt is that of the Weald clay, 
 which extends from Surrey to tlie sea, between Hythe and the mouth 
 of the Rother, the flat of Romuey Marsh lying below it. Some portions 
 of the Hastings sand formation, which covers so much of Sussex, pene- 
 trate into Kent, and are occasionally found isolated in the midst of the 
 Weald. This, however, is not of sufficient extent to constitute a sixth 
 belt. 
 
 The geological history of all these formations belongs to that of the 
 great valley of the Weald, or the district lying between the North and 
 the South Downs, and will be found noticed at greater length in the 
 Introduction to Sussex. It should here be remarked, however, that in 
 the frst or tertiary belt the Isle of Sheppcy is of very high interest on 
 account of the fossils with which it abounds. A fulf notice, with 
 directions for the collector, will be found in Rte. 3. In different parts 
 of the clialk district, handsprings, resembling the Hampshire and Sussex 
 " lavants," break out at intervals, and are here called " nailbournes " — 
 a corruption, it is said, of " an eelboume," although it scarcely appears 
 that these occasional watercourses are remarkable for the size or quan- 
 tity of the eels found in them. Like the singular " swallows " on the 
 river Mole (see ' Handbook for Surrey''), there can be no doubt that the 
 intermittent character of these springs is due to the cavernous nature of 
 the subsoil. Extensive fissures, filled with loose blocks of rock, are of 
 not uncommon occurrence in the clialk. After wet seasons, the water 
 which has accumulated in these, overflows, and forms the torrent called 
 a " nailbourne." 
 
 The Weald (Ang.-Sax. forest) of Kent, still a wooded distiict, was 
 anciently covered with a thick forest, the eastern part of the great 
 Andredes-weald, which extended through Sussex as far as the Hamp- 
 shire border. The timber of Britain was famous at an early period ; and 
 it was probably from Augustine's report of the great oaks which over- 
 shadowed so much of this district (and perliaps of the oaken buildings 
 he found among the Saxons) that Gregory the Great was induced to 
 request that Ih'itish timber might be sent to him at Rome for building 
 the churches of SS. Peter and Paul. The oak is still the great tree of the 
 Weald ; on the chalk the beech flourishes admirably, attaining here and 
 there to very unusual size. Whether this tree can fairly be regarded 
 as indigenous, however, is uncertain ; it is, at least, remarkable to find
 
 Sussex. Extent and History. xix 
 
 Caesar (V. 12) asserting that the British trees were the same as those of 
 Gaul, with the exception of tlie beech and fir ()ira?ter fagnm et ahietem). 
 By whatever route the Romans tirst reached the Thames from the 
 coast, they must have passed over a wide stretch of chalk country on 
 which the beech now grows in profusion. 
 
 Except the marshes lyins; along the Thames and on the south coast, 
 no part of Kent is level. The Weald is a succession of low hills, to the 
 north of which two parallel chains, of greater height, traverse the 
 entire county from N.W. to S.E. The most southerly range is fomied 
 of the lower greensand, and is known as " the Quarry Hills ;" the other 
 is the line of the North Downs, chalk-hills of varying height, and some- 
 times known as " the Backbone of Kent." In this range the greatest 
 elevations are Paddlesworth Hill, near Folkestone, 642 feet, and Hol- 
 lingbourne Hill, betAveen the Medway and the Stour, GIG feet. Some 
 of the greensand hills rise to 800 feet, and from them the views S. over 
 the rich, tree-shadowed ^N'^eald are often of extreme beauty. In the 
 first belt, that of the London clay, the greatest height is Shooter's Hill, 
 near Woolwich, 446 I'eet. 
 
 The tourist may be quite sure that from any of the greater elevations 
 in the county he will obtain a view which will ami)ly repay him for 
 all the labours of the ascent. Among the grander Kentish prospects, 
 however, the following deserve especial mention : — From Boiighton Hill 
 toward Chatham (Rte. 4) ; from the high ground of Thanet (Rte. 9) ; 
 from Dover Castle (Rte. 7) ; from the hills near Folkestone (Rte. 7) ; 
 from Goudhurst and its church-tower (Rte. 7); from Bluebell Hill, 
 above Aylesford (Rte. 5) ; from Knole Park, looking south (Itte. 6) ; 
 and from the London road north of Sevenoaks (Rte. G). All these 
 views will be found noticed in the general routes to which they belong. 
 
 The principal collections of yiictures in the county are at the Belvi- 
 dere (Sir Culling Eardley), Rte. 1 ; at Cobham (Earl of Darnley), Rte. 
 2 ; at Knole (Lady Amherst), Rte. G; and at Penshurst (Lord de 
 Lisle), Rte. 7. Of these, the galleries at the Belvidere and Cobham are 
 the most important. 
 
 SUSSEX. 
 
 Extent and History. 
 
 Sussex, the ancient kinodom of the " South Saxons," extends in its 
 gi-eatest width 76 m. (between Kent and Hamjshire), and 27 m. in its 
 extreme length (from Tunbridge Wells to Beachy Head). The divi- 
 sions of the county are strongly marked by nature. The greater part 
 of East Sussex is covered by a wide ranQ;e of the Hastintis sand, rising 
 at the centre to a considerable elevation, known as the " Forest Pidiie." 
 The scenery of all this district is very picturesque, and quite distinct 
 from that offered by the other natural divisions of the county — the
 
 ^'X Extent and History. Tntrod. 
 
 Weald of Sussex, which strctclies in a long line from Pevensey Bay 
 to tlie hills beyond Petwortli ;— the South Downs, which extend 53 m. 
 from Beacby Head to the Hampshire border ;— and the level coast dis- 
 trict, stretching away from Brighton, beyond Chichester. Between the 
 chalk of the South Downs and the Weald the usual belts of gault and 
 lower greensand occur. Each of these districts has its own peculiar 
 scenery and features, and each will amply repay examination. The 
 South Downs, and the Forest Ridge, especially, are exceeded in beauty 
 and interest by few parts of England. 
 
 The o-reater part of the present county of Sussex— probably the 
 whole of it, with the exception of the South Downs and the C(juntry 
 between them and the sea — was anciently covered with a thick forest, 
 the famous Andredswood, or " Andredsleas," signifying, according to 
 Dr. Guest, the " uninhabited district" (««, the Celtic negative particle, 
 and tred, a dwelling). One great Roman road, the " Stane Street," 
 ran from Chichester to London, and penetrated this wooded region in 
 a north-easterly direction. Another, and pcrhajis a more ancieni road, 
 stretched along nearer the coast, and connected the great fortress of 
 Anderida (Pevensey) with Regnum (Chichester) and'^Portus Magnus 
 (Porchester). Anderida, whose venerable walls yet remain, was^one 
 of the fortresses for the defence of the S. coast, placed under the 
 control of the Count of the Saxon Shore. Regnum, the present Chi- 
 chester, was a city of considerable size and importance, and apparently 
 the chief town of the Regni, whose chief, Cogidubnus, is refen-ed to in 
 the Agricola of Tacitus as one of those British princes who maintained 
 a constant fidelity to Rome. A remarkable inscription, discovered in 
 Chichester, and now preserved at Goodwood (Rte. 16), alludes to 
 Cogidubnus as having embellished his native city with public build- 
 ings, and also, it has been suggested, connects Regnum in a very 
 interesting maimer with the history of the earliest Christian converts 
 (See Chichester, Rte, 16). 
 
 The first Teutonic settlement on this coast took place, nccordins; to 
 the Saxon Chronicle, in 477, when ^lla and his three sons landed at 
 Cymens-ora, probably Wittering, south of Chichester (Rte. 16). They 
 took possession of Regnum and destroyed Anderida, establishing theni- 
 selves over the whole line of coast as the " South Sexe," or South 
 Saxons = Sussex. The numerous terminations in "ing" which occur 
 throughout the county and indicate the sites of primitive "marks" or 
 settlements (see Poling, Rte. 16) seem to prove that the district early 
 became populous. It was, however, cut off from much intercourse 
 with the other Saxon kingdoms by the great wood of Anderida, and by 
 the marshes which extended between it and Kent; and it was not 
 until about a.d. 680 that Christianity was first introduced among the 
 South Saxons by Wilfrid of York, who had been shijiuTccked on the 
 coast. For the singular condition of the district at that time, as de- 
 scribed by Bede, see ^elsey, Rte. 16. 
 
 The South Saxon kingdom shared the fate of the others, and was 
 finally absorbed in that of Wessex. It formed one of the <^reat
 
 Sussex. Extent and History. xxi 
 
 earldoms possessed by Harold and the house of Godwin, and it was on 
 its coast that the Conqueror landed, and within its limits that the 
 great battle was fought in which the Anglo-Saxon monarchy perished. 
 (For ample details, which it is unnecessary to repeat here, see Fevensey, 
 Rte. 15 ; and BattJe Abbey, Rte. 12.) The entire county was fear- 
 fully ravaged ; and it is probable that the territorial divisions of 
 Sussex, whose aspect differs altogether from that which prevails in 
 other counties, were the immediate result of the conquest. The 
 "hundreds" and "lathes or lastes" which exist elsewhere, arose, we 
 may be tolerably certain, from two main causes — " the first, the 
 natural dispersion of the tribes and races over the country ; and the 
 other, the consolidation of various tracts or townships under one autho- 
 rity or lord ; but nowhere is any trace of system apparent to the eye 
 except in Sussex, where we find a territorial division bearing a name 
 pjeculiar to the countj^, and showing an evident scheine of partition. 
 The Normans were a liard people ; whenever they conquered, and did 
 conquer outright, they went to work like plunderers, dividing the 
 country by measurement — by the rope, as it was termed — measuring 
 out the land amongst themselves, a process which singularly marks 
 the original violence of their character, for in such allotments they 
 neglected all the natural relations which might previously exist amongst 
 the nations whom they conquered. Now this is the process they 
 carried into effect in Sussex, which is divided into six jwrtions, ex- 
 tending right down from the northern border of the county, and each 
 having a frontage towards the sea ; and each of these ruj^es (or hreppar, 
 as they are termed in Icelandic) have within them some one castle, or 
 other important station for defence and protection. In Domesday 
 each rape appears under a military commander. All the original 
 Anglo-Saxon divisions are noticed in the Anglo-Saxon laws, and 
 possessed an Anglo-Saxon tribunal. The rape is not noticed in any 
 Anglo-Saxon law, and does not possess any Anglo-Saxon tribunal. We 
 therefore have good reason to conjecture that this portion of England 
 more particularly occupied the attention of the wise and wary general, 
 and that he treated Sussex entirely as a conquered territory." — Sir F. 
 Palgrave, East Sussex contains the rapes of Hastings, Lewes, and 
 Pevensey ; West Sussex those of Arundel, Bramber, and Chichester. 
 The castles in each of these rapes were either on, or not far from, the 
 coast; and each rape formed what has been called "a high road to 
 Normandy," each having an available harbour at its southern extremity. 
 After the Conquest the great event in the history of Sussex is the 
 battle of Lewes, fought May 13, 1264, between Henry III. and the 
 barons under Simon de Montfort. A full notice of this battle, an im- 
 portant landmark in the history of English liberties, will be found in 
 Rte. 15, Leives.
 
 xxii Antiquities. Introd. 
 
 Antiquities, 
 
 Sussex possesses no remarkable antiquities of the British period with 
 the excejition of the large entrenchments that crown some of the 
 highest points of the South Downs, and the date even of these is 
 uncertain. The most important are Cissbury, near Findon (Kte. 16) ; 
 Chanctonbury, near Steyning (Kte. 18) ; Whitehawk Hill, above 
 Brighton (Rte. 14) ; the Devil's Dyke, near Poynings (Rte. 14) ; and 
 Mount Caburn, near Lewes (Rte. 15). A chain of camps, some of 
 which in their present form are uncjuestionably Roman, may be traced 
 along the whole line of the South Downs, generally on the hills best 
 naturally fitted for defence, and commanding the country on both 
 sides, toward the Weald and the sea. The downs are everywhere 
 dotted with barrows, many of which are British. 
 
 The Boman relics in Sussex are very interesting and important. 
 Besides the inscriptions preserved at Goodwood, and the few relics of 
 ancient Eegnum at Chichester, the walls of Anderida still remain 
 at Pevensey (Rte. 15), and will repay careful examination ; whilst the 
 medifeval castle within their area is scarcely less attractive to the 
 archjEologist. The great Roman treasure of the county, however, is 
 the villa at Bignor (Rte. 16), with its large and very striking pave- 
 ments. This should on no account be left unvisited, since it ranks 
 among the most important remains of its class in Britain. It stood on 
 the ancient Stane Street, the line of Roman road which ran from 
 Regnum (Chichester) to London ; and about 3 m. beyond it, in the 
 parish of Pulborough, are the remains of a Roman station. Villas 
 (but of far less importance) have also been found at Angmering and at 
 Bognor, on the coast. 
 
 Sussex is far richer in its churches and ecclesiastical architecture than 
 is generally supposed. The following list contains the most interesting 
 and instructive. The greater part of those named deserve very careful 
 attention. 
 
 Saxon. — Kte. 14: Worth — perhaps affording the most complete 
 gi-ound-plan of a Saxon church which remains. It exhibits much 
 external structural decoration in narrow strips of plain masonry. The 
 chancel and transeptal arches are without doubt Saxon. Kte. 15 : 
 Jevington ; the tower has been called Saxon, and at all events deserves 
 notice. Ete. 16 : Sompting; Bosham. 
 
 Norman. — Rte. 15: Kewhaven; Bishopstone (partly). Rte. 16: 
 Old and New Shoreham, both very interesting; Chichester Cathedral 
 (nave). Rte. 18 : Amberley ; Steyning (imjiortant). 
 
 Trimsition.—YiiQ. 12: Battle (parts). Rte. 13: Rye. Rte. 15: 
 Eastbom-ne ; Bishopstone (jiarts). Rte. 16 : New Shoreham (parts) ; 
 Broadwater (very rich); Chichester Cathedral (parts); Boxgrove 
 (parts). Rte. 18 : Steyning (parts). The most advanced specimen of 
 this period is aflbrded by Bp. Seffrid II.'s work in Chichester Cathedral.
 
 Sussex. Antiquities. xxiii 
 
 The two easternmost compartments of the choir, begun 1186, com- 
 pleted 1199, exhibit very striliiugly the mixture of the two styles. 
 
 Early English. — Sussex, especially the western division, is said to 
 possess more unaltered examples of this period than any other English 
 county. Rte. 13 : Rye (parts). Rte. 14 : Ditchling. Rte. 16 : 
 New Shoreham (parts) ; West Tarring ; Climping (very good and 
 curious) ; Boshara (parts) ; Appledram ; Chichester Cathedral (parts) ; 
 Boxgrove (])arts). Rte. 18 : Wisborough Green. Of these. West 
 Tarring, Climping, Appledram, and Wisborough Green, remain almost 
 entirely as when first constructed in the 13th century. 
 
 Decorated (Geometrical, 1245 to 1315). — Rte. 13 : St. Thomas's, 
 Winchelsea ; very fine and interesting. Rte. 15 : Buxted (chancel) ; 
 Pevensey. Rte. 16 : Chichester Cathedral (Lady Chapel) ; Chichester, 
 Priory Chajiel, now the Guildhall ; Chapel of St. Mary's Hospital. 
 
 Decorated (Curvilinear, 1315 to 1360). — Rte. 12 : Etchingham ; 
 very good. Rte. 13 : Monuments in St. Thomas's Church, Win- 
 chelsea, ranking " among the noblest conceptions of this period in the 
 kingdom." Rte. 15 : Alfriston. The churches of Etchingham and 
 Alfriston, both in the form of a Greek cross, are nearly throughout of 
 this time, and well deserve examination. 
 
 Perpendicular (1360 to 1550). — There are few churches of this time 
 in Sussex. The best are, — Rte. 12 : Mayfield. Rte. 14 : Poynings. 
 Rte. 16 : Arundel. Rte. 18 : Pulborough." 
 
 Of other ecclesiastical remains the most important in Sussex are, — 
 Rte. 12 : the ruins of Bayham Abbey (a house of Premonstratensian 
 Canons), on the borders of Kent— these are E. E. and Dec, and will 
 repay a visit ; Battle Abbey, chiefly E. E., and of the highest historical 
 interest. Rte. ] 5 : some fragments of the Clnniac Priory of St. Pancras, 
 at Lewes ; jMrtions of the Benedictine Priory at Wilmington, and 
 (more important) of the Augnstinian Priory at Michelham. (These 
 last are of E. E. character.) At (Rte. 16) P)Oxgrove are some remains 
 of the Benedictine priory adjoining the church ; and at (Rte. 19) 
 Shulbrede, among the scanty ruins of the Augnstinian priory, is a 
 chamber containing some curious wall paintings. 
 
 Sussex contains some important specimens of military architecture. 
 Among them are, — Rte. 12 : Hastings Castle, partly Norm., and more 
 interesting from its site than from its existing remains. Rte. 14 : a 
 Norm, fragment of Knepp Castle. Rte. 15 : the fine remains of Lewes 
 Castle, of Edwardian character, with some Norm, traces, and very 
 interesting; Pevensey, principally dating from the end of the 13th 
 centy., — a grand mediaeval ruin in the area of a Roman town, the walls 
 of which remain ; Hurstmonceux, a brick building of the reign of 
 Hen. VI., picturesque and striking. Rte. 16 : the Norm, keep of 
 Arundel Castle, very fine, and commanding a noble view. Rte. 18 : a 
 Norm, fragment of Bramber Castle. 
 
 Among the specimens of domestic architecture the archa?ologist should 
 notice, — Rte. 12 : an E. E. manor-house at Crowhurst, near Hastings ; 
 and the remains of the archiepiscopal palace at Mayfield — the hall is
 
 xxiv Products and Manufactures. Introd. 
 
 of the 14tli centy., very fine and interesting. Ete. 14 : Cuckfield 
 Place, dating from the end of the IGth centy ; Street, near Lewes, a 
 fine old James I. mansion ; and Danny, near Hurstpierpoint, one of the 
 many Elizabethan houses which shelter themselves under the northern 
 slope of the South Downs, lite. 15 : at West Dean, about 3 m. from 
 Seaford, is a parsonage-house of the 14th centy., well deserving a visit. 
 Rte. 18 : Parham, a fine Elizabethan house, full of ancient treasures, 
 must on no account be overlooked ; and beyond it is Wiston, also 
 Elizabethan, but of earlier date. 
 
 Prodtjcts and Manufactures. 
 
 Sussex is at present a purely agricultural county, and is rather 
 behind her neighbours in the application of modern science and im- 
 provements. Hops are grown to some extent in the eastern division ; 
 and the famous breed of South Down sheep (see Glynde, Rte. 15) 
 has long since been extended throughout England. Sussex, however, 
 exercises at present very little influence either by her agriculture or 
 her manufactures, although the time has been when the greater part 
 of the county was the " Birmingham " of England. Throughout 
 the 16th and 17th centuries the iron-works of Sussex were of the 
 highest importance, and the tourist will still find traces of them 
 scattered through the now solitary woodlands, chiefly of the eastern 
 division. A most valuable notice of the Sussex iron- works was in- 
 serted by Mr. Lower in the ' Sussex Archajological Collections,' and 
 has since been reprinted by him in his ' Contributions to Literature,' 
 a volume, it should be added, which contains many papers of the 
 highest interest to the tourist in Sussex. The following account of 
 the ancient iron-works of the county has been chiefly extracted from 
 Mr. Lower's paper. 
 
 The strata producing iron ore lie on the central portion of the Weald 
 formation, in the sandstone beds called the Forest Ridge, and by 
 geologists the Hastings sand. The beds run in a N.W. direction, 
 from Hastings, by Ashburnham, Heathfield, Crowborough, Ashdown 
 Forest, Worth, Tilgate Forest, and St. Leonard's Forest ; the country, 
 as has already been mentioned, formerly covered by the great wood of 
 Anderida. The highest point is Crowborough (804 ft.). " The iron was 
 here produced by vegetable and animal decomposition in the bed and 
 delta of a mighty river, which flowed through countries inhabited by 
 the iguanodon and other colossal reptiles." — Mantell. " It appears to 
 me that the ore in the Forest Ridge was the clay ironstone of the 
 ' Wealden beds.' At the western extremity of the district it is tliought 
 that the ferruginous sands of the lower greensand were used ; but in 
 the clay country of the Weald I have found sufficient evidence of the 
 exclusive use of a comparatively recent concretion, a kind of bog-iron, 
 frequently turned up by the plough, and called ' iron rag.' It is com- 
 posed of clay, gravel, and about 25 or 30 per cent, of oxide of iron ;
 
 Sussex. Products and Manufactures. xxv 
 
 and is a superficial and fragmentary formation, a recent ' pudding- 
 stone.'" — P. J. Martin. 
 
 The period at wliicii tlie iron of Sussex was first worked is quite 
 unknown. The Rev. Edward Turner of Maresfield has, however, dis- 
 covered Roman relics in a cinder-bed in his parisli, indicating an exten- 
 sive settlement. Many coins, mostly of Vespasian, Samian ware, and 
 other articles, have been found here ; and Roman coins have since been 
 discovered in cinder-beds at Sedlescombe, at Westfield, and at Fram- 
 field (the cinders are the scoria? of disused furnaces, and are now turned 
 to account in repairing the roads). It is probable, however, that the 
 Britons were acquainted with these iron-fields before the Roman inva- 
 sion. Ca3sar describes the use of iron rings for coin, and asserts that 
 iron was produced in the maritime districts, though in small quantity. 
 
 It is not clear, though it is probable, that the ore continued to be 
 worked by the Saxons. The iron-beds of Sussex are not mentioned in 
 Domesday, although some others are. The earliest record of the works 
 occurs in the murage grant made by Henry III. to the town of Lewes 
 in 1266. This empowers the inhabitants to raise tolls for the repair 
 of the walls after the battle. Every cart laden with iron from the 
 neighbouring Weald was to pay I'i., and every horse-load |'i. In 1290 
 payment was made to Master Henry of Lewes for iron-work for the 
 monument of Henry III. in Westminster Abbey ; and 3000 horse- 
 shoes and 29,000 nails are recorded as having been provided by Peter 
 de Walsham, Sheriff of Surrey and Sussex (13 Edw. II.), for the 
 expedition against Scotland. 
 
 The oldest existing article of Sussex iron remains in Burwash Church, 
 and is a cast-iron monumental slab, with a cross, and an inscription in 
 relief. It is of the 14th centy., and probably unique. The insci'iption, 
 in Longobardic letters, is " Orate P. Annenia Ihone Coline," INlistress 
 Joan Collins having possibly been an "iron-mistress" at Socknersh 
 furnace, in Brightling, where the Collins family was settled. Andirons 
 and other articles of the 15th centy. are still found in some numbers in 
 old mansions and farmhouses ; and work of the 16th cent}', is com- 
 paratively common. Some of the banded guns of wrought iron i)re- 
 served in the Tower of London, and dating from the reign of Heur}^ VI., 
 were of Sussex manufacture. A mortar, formerly remaining at Bridge 
 Green, in the parish of Frant, is said to have been the first made in 
 England ; and it is probable that most of the pieces employed in our 
 continental wars of the 14th and 15th centuries were manufactured in 
 Sussex, These hooped guns were superseded by cannon cast in an 
 entire piece, and bored, as at present. The first of these iron cannon 
 ever produced in England were cast at Buxted, b}^ Ralf Hoge, or Hogge, 
 in 1543 (35 Hen. VHL). At the commencement of his work he was 
 assisted by French and Flemish gunsmiths, but afterwards " made by 
 himself ordnance of cast iron of diverse sorts." The Hogge family 
 resided at Hog House, near Buxted Church ; and over the door of 
 their ancient dwelling their rebus, a hog, with the date 1581, may 
 still be seen. The name seems to have become confounded with thar 
 
 [Kent and Sussex.'] h
 
 xxvi Products and Manufactures. Introd. 
 
 of Hiiggett ; since at Hiiggett's furnace, between Buxted and Mayfield, 
 the first iron ordnance is said by tradition to have been cast : — 
 
 " Master Huggett and his man John, 
 They did cast the first can-non " — 
 
 runs the local rhyme. Many Huggetts still carry on the trade of 
 blacksmiths in East Sussex. 
 
 The trade increased rapidly during the 16tli century, when many 
 Sussex families enriched b}- it assumed the rank of gentry. Nor was 
 it neglected by those of more ancient descent. Ashburnhams, Pel- 
 hams, Sidneys, and Howards engaged in it to the destruction of ancestral 
 oak and beech, and with all the apparent ardour of Birmingham and 
 Wolverhampton men in these times. Others of lesser rank eagerly 
 followed, the Fullers recognising the profit they gained in their motto, 
 " Carbone et forcipibus." 
 
 The destruction of woods throughout the coimty began to be noticed 
 early in the 1(3 th century, and some provisions were made by Henry 
 VIIL and Elizabeth against its increase. But the waste still con- 
 tinued. John Norden, in his 'Surveyor's Dialogue' (1607), asserts 
 that there were in Sussex nearly 140 hammers and furnaces for iron, 
 each of which consumed every 24 hours from 2 to 4 loads of charcoal. 
 But there was, he thought, some doubt whether the clearance was 
 altogether hurtful, since "people bred among woods are naturally more 
 stubborne and uncivil than in the champion countries.*' Drayton, in 
 his ' Polyolbion,' however, finds no consolation for the " stately wood 
 nymphs " of Sussex. 
 
 " These forests, as I say, the daughters of the Weald 
 (That in their heavy breasts had long their griefs concealed), 
 Foreseeing their decay each hour so last come on. 
 Under the axe's strolce, fetched many a grievous groan. 
 When as the anvil's weight, and hammer's dreadful sound. 
 Even rent the IkjUow woods and shook the queachy ground ; 
 So that tlie trembling njTiiphs, oppressed through ghastly fear. 
 Ran madding to the downs, with loose dishevelled liair. 
 The sylvans that about f.he neighbouring woods did dwell. 
 Both in the tufty frith and in the mossy fell, 
 Forsook their gloomy bowers, and wandered far abroad, 
 Expelled their quiet seats, and place of their abode, 
 "Wljen labouring carts they saw to hold their daily trade. 
 Where they in summer wont to sport them in the shade. 
 ' Gould we,' say they, ' supjiose that any would us cherish 
 AVhicIi sufl"er every day the holiest things to perish ? 
 Or to our daily want to minister supply i" 
 The.se iron times breed none that mind posterity. 
 'Tis but in vain to tell what we before have been. 
 Or changes of tlie world that we in time have seen ; 
 AVhen, not devising how to spend our wealth with waste, 
 We to the savage swine let fall our larding mast. 
 But now, alas ! ourselves we have not to sustain ; 
 Nor can our tops suffice to shield our roots from rain. 
 Jove's oak, the warlike ash, veined elm, the softer beech, 
 Short hazel, maple plain, light asp, the Ijending wych, 
 Tougli holly, and snionth birch, must altogether burn; 
 What should the builder serve supplies the forger's turn, 
 When under public good bise private gain takes hold, 
 And we, poor wolul woods, to ruin lastly sold.' "
 
 Sussex, Products and Manufactures. xxvii 
 
 Although the Forest Eidpie of Sussex still contains much timber, the 
 great woods of the Ashdown district entirely disa]>peared duricg the 
 period of the ironworks, and the South Downs themselves are at present 
 scarcely more bare and treeless. 
 
 The Sussex iron varied in quality, " Some," saj^s Camden, " was 
 more brittle than the Spanish iron ;" but that worked at the Ashburn- 
 ham forges excelled in quality of toughness, " and I have been assured 
 by smiths who have used it," sa^-s Mr. Lower, " that it was no wise 
 inferior to the Swedish metal, generally accounted the best in the 
 world." The casting of brass was extensively carried on, and bell- 
 founding successfully practised. (A new peal for Eastbourne was cast 
 at Chiddingly in 1G51 ; the bells of Hailsham were cast on Bell Bank, 
 a spot near the town.) Steel was manufactured at Warbleton (where 
 is a place called " Steel forgeland ") and at Kobertsbridge. 1'he site of 
 an iron-work was chosen near to beds of ore and to some available 
 water-power. Artificial ponds were generally constructed by dams of 
 earth against the stream, with an outlet of masonry for the supply 
 of water, by means of which the wheel connected with tlie machinery 
 of the hammer or the furnace was set in motion. Many of the finest 
 sheets of water in Sussex are tlius due to the iron-works. Other 
 meadow-, once converted into ponds and pools, have again been drained. 
 
 The trade reached its greatest extent in the 17th century ; and, as late 
 as 1724, the iron manufacture was still considered the chief interest of 
 the county, but the decline had already commenced. The vast con- 
 sumi)tion of wood rendered the production of iron in this district more 
 expensive than in the localities where coal-mines and iron-ore are close 
 together ; hence competition with them became hopeless, though the 
 works continued as late as 1750, Farnhurst in West Sussex and Ash- 
 burnham in the eastern division of the county wfire the last places at 
 which they were carried on. The Ashburnham furnace was in work at 
 the end of the last century. 
 
 The principal existing remains of Sussex iron, besides the hooped 
 gims already mentioned, are — andirons and chinmey -backs, dating 
 from the 14th to the 17th centuries (the work of these varies in 
 character, but is sometimes very good and graceful), and monumental 
 slabs, dating from the early part of the 17th centuiy to the time at 
 which the manufacture ceased altogether. Specimens occur in most of 
 the churches throughout the district. At Wadhurst are no less than 
 thirty examples, ranging between 1625 and 1799, all in very rude and 
 bold relief. Many of the persons commemorated were connected with 
 the trade in the parish. (A similar use of Scandinavian iron is made in 
 the Norwegian cathedral of Trondlijeim.) One other relic of the Sussex 
 works should here be mentioned : the balustrades round St. Paul's 
 Cathedral, weighing, together with 7 gates, about 200 tons, were cast 
 in the parish of Lamberhurst, at a cost of 11,202Z. Os. ^d. A furnace 
 near Mayfield disputes this honour, which really, however, belongs to 
 "Gloucester Furnace" at Lamberhurst, where the annual consumption 
 of wood was 200,000 cords. Cannon cast in this furnace are said to 
 
 h 2
 
 xxYiii Geology and Travellers View. Introd. 
 
 have been conveyed by smugglers for the iiae of French privateers 
 during the war with EngLand. The discovery of this, it is also asserted, 
 caused the withdrawal of many Government contracts and the conse- 
 quent decline of the works at Lamberhurst. The iron-works belonging 
 to the Crown and to all royalists were destroyed by Sir William Waller 
 after the taking of Chichester and Arundel in 1643. 
 
 Geology and Traveller's View. 
 
 The main geological divisions of Sussex have already been mentioned. 
 They belong to what is called the Valley of the Weald, and arc con- 
 nected with the history of the chalk formations, which must here be 
 briefly noticed. The reader should also be referred to Sir Charles 
 Lyell's ' Principles of Geology,' book iv., ch. 21, and to the geological 
 essays supplied by the late Dr. Mantell to Brayley's ' History of 
 Surrey,' vol. i. p. 121, and vol. v. p. 51. 
 
 From the large expanse of chalk forming the central portion of 
 Hamjishire two branches are sent off: one through the hills of Surrey 
 aud Kent to Dover, forming the ridge called the North Downs, and the 
 other through Sussex to the sea at Beachy Head, constituting the 
 South Downs. The country between these branches constitutes the 
 Valley of the Weald, and contains four distinct formations. First, a 
 narrow band of gault, ranging quite round the valley at the foot of the 
 chalk ; next, a ring of lower greensand, a very complex grouji, con- 
 sisting of grey, yellowish, and greenish sands, ferruginous sand and 
 sandstone, clay, chert, and silicious limestone ; thirdly, an inner ring 
 of Weald clay, composed tor the most part of clay without intermixture 
 or calcareous matter, but sometimes including thin beds of sand and 
 shelly limestone ; and lastly, in the centre of the district a high ridge 
 formed of the Hastings sands, composed chiefly of sand, sandstone, 
 clay, and calcareous grit, passing into limestone. Each of the belts, 
 which are here called rings, terminates abruptly toward the sea in the 
 same manner as the chalk itself. 
 
 The chalk is, of course, the uppermost of all these formations, and in 
 order to account for the ajipearance and denudation of the different 
 beds intervening between the two branches of the North and South 
 Downs various hypotheses have been proposed. That now generally 
 adopted is Sir Charles Lyell's, who conceives " that the chalk, together 
 with many subjacent rocks, may have remained imdisturbed and in 
 horizontal stratification rmtil after the commencement of the Eocene 
 j)eriod. When at length the chalk was upheaved and exposed to the 
 action of the waves and currents, it was rent and shattered, so that the 
 subjacent secondary strata were soon after exposed to denudation. The 
 waste of all these rocks, composed chiefly of sandstone and clay, sup- 
 plied materials for the tertiary sands and clays, while the chalk was the 
 source of flinty shingle aud of the calcareous matter which we find 
 Intermixed with the Eocene clays." The tertiary sands and gravels
 
 Sussex. Geology and Travellers View. xxix 
 
 occur in the so-called basins of London and Hampshire, lying without 
 the Valley of the Weald north and south. " The tracts now sej)arating 
 these basins " (the North and South Downs) " were those first ele- 
 vated, and which contributed by their gradual decay to the production 
 of the newer strata. These last were accumulated in deep submarine 
 hollows, formed probably by the subsidence of certain parts of the 
 chalk, which sank while the adjoining tracts were rising." — i^ydl, book 
 \\\ ch. 20. Whether the chalk ever extended completely over the 
 country between the North and South Downs is, of course, uncertain. 
 Sir Charles Lyell, however, considers that it did so, and accounts for 
 the absence of all ruins of chalk on the central district by supposing 
 that " the rise of the land was very gradual, and the subterranean 
 movements for the most part of moderate intensity. During the last 
 century earthquakes have occasionally thrown down at once whole lines 
 of sea cliffs for several miles continuously ; but if this had happened 
 repeatedly during the waste of the ancient escarpments of the chalk 
 now encircling the Weald, and if the shocks had been accompanied by 
 the sudden rise and conversion of large districts into land, the Weald 
 Avould have been covered with the ruins of those wasted rocks, and the 
 sea could not possibly have had time to clear the whole away." The 
 gradual rise of the strata is thus explained: "Supposing the line of 
 the most violent movements to have coincided with what is now the 
 central ridge of the Weald Valley ; in that case, the first land which 
 emerged must have been situated where the Forest Ridge is now 
 placed. Here a number of reefs may have existed, and islands of 
 chalk, which may have been gradually devoured by the ocean in the 
 same manner as Heligoland and other European isles have disappeared 
 in modern times. Suppose the ridge or dome first elevated to have 
 been so rent and shattered on its summit as to give more eas}^ access 
 to the waves," until at length the masses thus shattered were removed. 
 "Two strips of land might then remain on each side of a channel, in 
 the same manner as the opposite coasts of France and England, com- 
 jDOsed of chalk, present ranges of white cliffs facing each other. A 
 powerful current might then rush, like that which now ebbs and flows 
 through the Straits of Dover, and might scoop out a channel in the 
 gault. We must bear in mind that the intermittent action of earth- 
 quakes would accompany this denuding process, Assuring rocks, 
 throwing down cliffs, and bringing up, from time to time, new stratified 
 masses, and thus greatly accelerating the rate of waste. If the lower 
 bed of chalk on one side of the channel should be harder than on the 
 other, it would cause an under terrace resembling that iireseuted by the 
 upper greensand in parts of Sussex and Hampshire. When at length 
 the gault was entirely swept away from the central parts of the channel, 
 the lower gi'eensand would be laid bare, and portions of it would be- 
 come land during the continuance of the upheaving earthquakes. 
 Meanwhile the chalk cliffs would recede farther from one anotliei", 
 whereby four parallel strips of land, or perhaps rows of islands, would 
 be caused." The faces of the chalk range which front the Weald (the
 
 a 
 
 XXX Geology and Traveller s View. Introd. 
 
 north face of the South Downs and the south termination of the North 
 Downs) form steep declivities, called by geologists the "escarpment of 
 the chalk." This escarpment may he traced from the sea at Folke- 
 stone along the south face of the North Downs to Guildford and the 
 neighbourhood of Petersfield, and thence to the termination of the 
 South Downs at Beachy Head. " In this precipice or steep slope the 
 strata are cut oif abruptly, and it is evident that they must originally 
 have extended farther." The view from the hill above Steyning in 
 Sussex displays very clearly the character of this escarpment. " The 
 geologist caimot fail to recognise in this view the exact likeness of a 
 sea-cliff; and if he turns and looks in an opposite direction, or eastward, 
 towards Beachy Head, he will see the same line of height prolonged. 
 Even those who are not accustomed to s[)eculate on the former changes 
 which the surface has undergone may fancy the broad and level plain 
 to resemble the flat sands which were laid dry by the receding tide, and 
 the different projecting masses of chalk to be the headlands of a coast 
 which separated the different bays from each other." — Lyell. 
 
 The drainage of all this district " is not effected by watcsrcourses 
 following the great valleys excavated out of the argillaceous strata, but 
 by valleys which run in a transverse direction, passing through the 
 chalk to the basin of the Thames on the one side, and to the English 
 Channel on the other. In this manner the chain of the North Downs 
 is broken by the rivers Wey, Mule, Daren t, Medway, and Stour ; the 
 South Downs by the Arun, A(lur, Ouse, and Cuckmere." " These great 
 cross fractures of the chalk, which have become river channels, have 
 a remarkable correspondence on each side of the Valley of the Weald, 
 in several instances the gorges in the North and South Downs a])pcaring 
 to be directly opj)osed to each other. Thus, for exampile, the defiles of 
 the Wey in the North Downs, and of the Arun in the South, seem to 
 coincide in direction ; and in like manner the Ouse corresi>onds to 
 the Dareut and the Cuckmere to the Medway. Although these coin- 
 cidences may perhaps be accidental, it is by no means improbable 
 that the great amount of elevation towards the centre of the Weald 
 district gave rise to transverse fissures." If these transverse hollows 
 could be filled up, all tlie rivers, observes Mr. Conybeare, woidd be 
 forced to take an easterly course, and to empty themselves into the sea 
 by liomney Marsh and Fevensey Levels. 
 
 The various formations between the two ranges of Downs, which, 
 according to this hypothesis, have been laid bare by the upheaval and 
 subsequent removal of the chalk, ofier very distinct scenery and pecu- 
 liarities. The Forest Rifhje, formed of the Hastings sands, is perhaps 
 the most romantic portion of the county (see Ute. 17). Steep and 
 abrnjit hills, intersected by numerous stream- valleys, extend in a 
 long line from Fairlight to Horsham. The valleys are themselves 
 picturesque and full of beauty. From the hills noble views are com- 
 manded toward the sea and the Downs on eitlier side. The highest 
 ]K)int <if this ridge is Crowborough Beacon (804 feet). Scots pine and 
 fir (l)oth of comparatively recent introduction), beech and birch abound
 
 Sussex. Geology and Traveller's View. xxxi 
 
 throughout tlie district. The country of the Weald clay, which en- 
 circles the Forest llidge, is more level, but by no means tame. The 
 oak is here the principal tree. This district was " once the bed of an 
 ancient delta or estuary, formed by a river of great extent, flowing 
 through a country possessing a tropical flora, and inhabited by reptiles 
 of appalling magnitude, and of species which no doubt became extinct 
 ere the creation of the human race." Many of these reptiles — among 
 tliem the Iguanodon and the Hylajosaurus — were first discovered in 
 Tilgate Forest by Dr. Man tell. Between the Weald clay and the 
 chalk, beds of the loiver greensand intervene, presenting here and 
 there, especially about Midhurst and i'etworth, some very interesting 
 sc'jnery. But the most peculiar district in the country — as striking 
 and picturesque in its way as the Forest Ridge — is that of the chalk, 
 forming the range of the South Downs. 
 
 The South Downs in Sussex extend to 53 miles in length, with an 
 average breadth of 42 miles, and an average height of about 500 feet. 
 The greatest elevations are attained at Ditchling Beacon (858 feet), and 
 at Firle Beacon (820 feet). Chanctonbury King (814 feet) is, how- 
 ever, a more conspicuous mark at a distance, owing to the dark mass of 
 firs with which it is crested. It may be distinctly recognised from the 
 range of the North Downs in Surrey. 
 
 About 300 species of shells, zoophytes, and fishes have been dis- 
 covered in the chalk. The great beauty of its outlines, and the 
 graceful undulations which, fold after fold, pass away into the extreme 
 distance — " lines of beauty, unequalled except in some island group of 
 the Pacific" — are alone sufficientlv attractive. But tli^ magnificent 
 prospects commanded from these hills, and the perfect freedom with 
 which it is jtossible to ride or walk for miles along their unenclosed 
 summits, render the Sussex Downs one of the most delightful districts 
 in the south of England. " Though I have now travelled them for 
 upwards of thirty years," writes Gilbert White to Barrington (Letter 
 17), " j'et I still investigate that chain of majestic mountains with 
 fresh admiration year by year, and 1 think I see new beauties every 
 time I traverse it." ..." Mr. Ray," he continues, " used to visit a 
 family just at the foot of these hills, and was so ravished with the pros- 
 pect from Plumpton Plain, near Lewes, that he mentions those scapes 
 in his ' Wisdom of God in the Works of the Creation,' with the utmost 
 satisfaction, and thinks them equal to anything he had seen in the 
 finest jiarts of FiUrope." The tourist, if he penetrate at all beyond 
 those parts of the range usually visited (in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood of Brighton), will find the South Downs less hackne3'e<l 
 ground and quite as interesting as many parts of the Continent which 
 enjoy a far higher reputation. The best and most complete notice of 
 them will be found in Mr. Lower's Contributions to Literature, to 
 which reference has already been made. 
 
 The eastern half of the South Downs, from Beachy Head to beyond 
 Lewes, is more bare and treeless, though perhaps finer in form, than the 
 hills farther west. The great sweeps of the chalk are everywhere
 
 xxxii Geology and Traveller's View. Introd. 
 
 broken by " coombes " and " deans," the local names for the deep 
 valleys and hollows (see Lewes, Rte. 15). Stunted junipers, occasional 
 patches of box, and hawthorns, sometimes of great age, and strongly 
 marked against the green turf by their clusters of white blossoms or 
 scarlet berries, are dotted here and there over the Downs ; and, as we 
 advance westward, " shaws " and " holts," as the little woods are 
 called, become more and more frequent, nestling in the sheltered 
 coombes, and struggling upward over the hill-side in the most pic- 
 turesque manner. Ash, hazel, and oak are the trees of which they are 
 mostly formed ; and nothing can be more beautiful than their colouring 
 in early autumn, finely contrasted with the bright close turf, and seen 
 under a sky chequered with jiassing cloudlets. At every step the 
 tourist will then be reminded of Copley Fielding, who laboured so long 
 among these downs, and whose drawings record so faithfully every 
 characteristic of their scenery. 
 
 A marked feature of the chalk hills is the number of " fairy rings," 
 sometimes called " hagtracks," and frequently occurring of very un- 
 usual size. The fairies themselves, although no longer taking much 
 interest in the things of " middle earth," may still be occasionally heard 
 of in the more " elenge " (lonely) places of the Downs. They ai'e 
 locally known, however, as " Pharisees," by which name it is sui)posed 
 they are frequently mentioned in the Bible — a sufficient proof of their 
 actual existence. " We'll sing and dance like Pharisees," is a line 
 which occurs in an old haiwest-supper song, indicating that, however 
 broad phylacteries may have been assumed by the " good neighbours " 
 of Sussex, their general habits continue much the same as those of 
 their brethren elsewhere. Among the many flowers to be met with on 
 the Downs are several species of orchis, and three of the gentians (cam- 
 pestris, amarella, and pneumonauthe), lovely enough, with their bright 
 blue stars, to adorn the couch of Titania herself. Besides the fairy 
 rings, barrows of all dates — Celtic, Eoman, and Saxon— are found 
 scattered over the Downs. The tourist will also remark the T-shaped 
 incisions in the turf; these are traps for the wheatear (Saa-icola 
 (xnanthe), the " English ortolan," as it is called, and not undeservedly. 
 The wheatears are only summer residents, arriving about the middle of 
 March and beginning their retreat in September, at which time they 
 congregate on the Downs in great numbers. They are taken for the 
 table, however, to such an extent that it is said the entire extinction of 
 the bird is at no great distance. A shepherd on Mount Caburn, near 
 Lewes, is said (but long since) to have caught no less than 84 dozen in 
 a single day. The bustard or " wild turkey," which formerly haunted 
 all these Downs in large flocks, has long since disappeared. The last 
 were hunted down with dogs toward the middle of the last century. 
 
 The South Down shepherds, a very peculiar race, have all but shared 
 the fate of the bustard, although a specimen may still be lighted on 
 occasionally in some solitary part of the hills. They used formerly to 
 live in caves or huts dug into the side of a bank or " link," and lined 
 with heath or straw. " It was in mi/ cave," writes one of them, of whom
 
 Sussex. Geology and Traveller s View. xxxiii 
 
 a very interesting notice will be found in the ' Sussex Arclia^ological 
 Collections,' " that I first read about Moses and his shepherding life, 
 and about David's killing the lion and the bear. Ah ! how glad I felt 
 that we hadn't such wild beastes to frighten, and may be kill, our 
 sheep and us." They were much " tempted " by smugglers. " Time 
 and often have I seen as many as a hundred men a horseback, with led 
 horses, all loaded with tubs of spirits and bags of tobacco." The 
 Hawkhurst gang were the most celebrated and feared. The smugglers, 
 however, have quite disappeared. The trade of " shepherding " still 
 descends in families, and certain names are always associated with the 
 shepherd's crook. 
 
 The views from the Downs themselves, stretching far over the Weald, 
 or towards the blue border of sea, are among the finest in the county. 
 The artist will also notice the very picturesque character of the villages 
 nestling close under the foot of the hills ; " clusters of lowly habitations, 
 some thatched, some tiled, some abutting the street, some standing 
 angularly towards it, all built of flint or boulders. A barn, a stable, a 
 circular pigeon-house, centuries old, with all its denizens (direct de- 
 scendants of the old manorial pigeons which lived here in the days of 
 the Plantagenets), and an antique gable or two peer out among the tall 
 elms." — M. A. Lower. 
 
 The entire county of Sussex, but especially the district on the Weald 
 clay, long enjoyed a " bad pre-eminence " on account of its deep roads, 
 the terror of all travellers. " Sowseks full of dirt and myre"' is the 
 character assigned to the county in an old rhyme quoted in Leland's 
 Itinerary, and it continued an ajjpropriate one until very recently. A 
 letter, " by an ingenious gentleman of the Court," gives a curious 
 account of the journey (in 1708) of Prince George of Denmark from 
 Godalming to Petworth, where he met Charles VI. of Spain, who had 
 landed at'Portsmouth. " We set out," says the ingenious gentleman, 
 " by torchlight, and did not get out of the coaches (save only when 
 we were overturned or stuck fast in the mud) till we arrived at our 
 journey's end. 'Twas hard for the Prince to sit 14 hours in the coach 
 that day without eating anything, and passing through the worst ways 
 that ever I saw in my life. We were thrown but once indeed in going, 
 but both our coach, which was the leading, and his Highness's body- 
 coach, would have suftered very often if the nimble boors of Sussex 
 had not frequently poised it or supported it with their shoulders from 
 Godalming almost to Petworth ; and the nearer we ap]iroached the 
 Duke's house the more inaccessible it seemed to be. The last nine 
 miles of the way cost us six hours' time to conquer them ; and indeed 
 we had never done it, if our good master had not several times lent us 
 a pair of horses out of his own coach, whereby we were able to trace 
 out the way for him. They made us believe that the several grounds 
 we crossed and his Grace's park would alleviate the fatigue ; but I pro- 
 test I could hardly perceive any difference between them and the 
 common roads." Nearly fifty years later, Horace Walpole writes to
 
 xxxiv Geology and Traveller s View. In trod. 
 
 JMontatxiie (August, 1749), " If you love good roads, conveniences, good 
 inns, plenty of postilions and horses, be so kind as never to go into 
 Sussex. We thought ourselves in the northest part of England. The 
 Avhole country has a Saxon air, and the inhabitants are savage, as if 
 King George the Second was the first monarch of the East Angles. 
 Coaches grow there no more than balm and spices. We were forced to 
 drop our ]>ost-chaise that resembled nothing so much as a Harlequin's 
 calash, which was occasionally a chaise or a baker's cart. We journeyed 
 over Alpine mountains, drenched in clouds, and thought of Harlequin 
 again when he was driving the chariot of the sua through the morning 
 clouds, and so was glad to hear the aqua vitas man crying a dram. . . . 
 I have set up my staff and finished my pilgrimages for this year. 
 Sussex is a great damper of curiosity," 
 
 Oxen were generally used to draw carriages of all sorts through these 
 heavy roads, and they may still be seen in different parts of the county 
 employed as "beasts of draught," as well as in ploughing. But for the 
 most part the perils of Sussex travelling have disappeared. Excellent 
 roads, laid with the ironstone " clinkers," have been formed through- 
 out the county ; railways have penetrated it, and are yet extending 
 their arms ; and although every tourist will do well to bear in mind 
 tiie caution of Bailie Nicol Jarvie, that a man must not expect to carry 
 about with liim " the comforts of the Sautmarket," there is, neverthe- 
 less, no important town in the county in which they need be missed, 
 and the large watering-places are of course supplied with all the appli- 
 ances of the metropolis. In tlie less frequented districts rustic inns 
 and harder fare must lie submitted to : but bacon and eggs are never- 
 failing resources, and cleanliness may almost always be confidently 
 reckoned upon. 
 
 For tlie old Sussex dialect, which still retains the Saxon pronuncia- 
 tion and many Saxon words, consult Cooper's ' Glossary of Sussex 
 ProvinciaUsms.^ 
 
 The most important collections of works of art in Sussex are at Pet- 
 worth (Rte. 19), wiiere the jiictures are of the highest reputation and 
 interest ; at I'arham (Kte. IH), where besides some good pictures is a 
 noble collection of armour, ancient plate, MSS,, &c. ; and at Goodwood 
 (Rte. Ki). There are a few good portraits at Arundel Castle (Rte. 16); 
 an unrivalled library of MSS. and early printed books, plate, &c., at 
 Ashburnham Place (Rte. 17) ; and some pictures at Knepp Castle 
 (Rte. 14). These three collections, however, are not shown.
 
 Introd. ( XXXV ) 
 
 SKELETON TOURS. 
 
 No. I.— A TOUR OF SEVEN WEEKS THROUGH 
 KENT AND SUSSEX 
 
 (EMBRACING ALL THE CHIEF PLACES OF INTEREST). 
 
 Days. 
 
 1. Loudon by the Mid-Kent Eailway and omnibus to Sevenoaks 
 
 (Kte. 6). In the afternoon see Knole. 
 
 2. By road from Seveuoaks to Maidstone, visiting the Moat, Ightham 
 
 (Ete. G), Malluig Abbey, and AUington Castle (Kte. 5;, on the 
 ■way. 
 
 3. See All Saints' Church and College, and the town of Maidstone, in the 
 
 morning : in the afternoon visit Leeds Castle. 
 
 4. By rail to Aylesford. See the town, and visit Kit's -Coity House 
 
 (Ete. 5). Proceed by rail to Eochester (Ete. 2). 
 
 5. See the Castle and Cathedral in the mornuig. Visit Fort Pitt, 
 
 Chatham, in the afternoon. (If the Dockyard be an object, an 
 entire day should be given to it.) 
 
 6. Visit Cobham Hall (,Ete. 2). 
 
 7. Sunday at Eochester. 
 
 8. By rail to Faversham (Ete. 4). See the Church, and visit Davington 
 
 Priory. In the afternoon proceed to Canterbury (Ete. 8). 
 
 9. See the Cathedral in the morning. In the afternoon, St. Augustine's 
 
 College and >St. Martin's Church ; and ascend the hill above it for 
 the sake of the general view of Canterbury. 
 
 10. See the Dane John and the rest of the cit)- in the morning. In the 
 
 afternoon visit Chartham and Chilham (Ete. 8). It is best to drive 
 to Chilham, since there is no railway station at Chartham, where 
 the church is of very great interest. Eeturn to Canterburj'. 
 
 11. Visit the Churches of Pati-ixbourne and Barfreston (Ete. 1 1). Eeturn 
 
 to Canterbury. 
 
 12. By railway to Minster (Ete. 9). See the Church ; visit the high 
 
 ground of the Isle of Thanet, and the Church of St. Nicliolas at 
 Wade. Eetvu-n to Minster, and proceed by rail to IMargate (Ete. 9j. 
 
 13. See the North Foreland. In the evening by rail to Eamsgate (Ete. 9). 
 
 14. Simday at Eamsgate. 
 
 15. By rail to Saudwicli (Ete. 10). See the town in the morning ; in the 
 
 afternoon visit Eichborough. 
 
 16. By rail to Deal. Thence by road to Dover, visiting Walmer Castle 
 
 (Ete. 10) and the Chm-ch of St. Margaret at Clifl'e (Ete. 10) on the 
 way. 
 
 17. At Dover (Ete. 7). Sec the Castle and the Western Heights.
 
 xxxvi Skeleton Tours. Introd. 
 
 Pays. 
 
 18. By rail to Folkestone (Ete. 7). See the Church. lu the afternoon 
 
 visit Castle Hill, N. of the town. Ketnrn to Folkestone. 
 
 19. From Folkestone either by road or by rail (the Westenlianger Station) 
 
 to Hythe (Kte. 7). See the ruins of the manor-house at Westen- 
 hanger ; Saltwood Castle ; the Chui-eh at Hythe ; and thence 
 proceed toLymne (Kte. 7). In the evening liy rail to Ashford. 
 
 20. From Ashford by road to Craiibrook or Goudhurst (Rte.^7). 
 
 21. Sunday either at Cranbrook or Goudhurst. 
 
 22. Goudhurst to Tuubridge Wells (Rte. 12). 
 
 23. See the Wells, and visit the High Rocks and the Common in the 
 
 morning ; in tlie afternoon proceed by rail to Tunbridge (Ete. 7). 
 See the Castle there. Return to Tunljridge Wells. 
 
 24. Visit Penshurst and Hever (Ete. 7). Return to Tunbridge Wells. 
 
 25. At Tunliridge Wells. Visit Frant Cliurch and Bayham Abbey 
 
 (Ete. 12). 
 
 26. At Tunbridge Wells. Visit Mayfield (Ete. 12). 
 
 27. By rail to Hastings (Ete. 12). Visit Etcliingham Chm-ch and Battle 
 
 Abbey (Ete. 12) on tlie way. 
 
 28. Sunday at Hastings. 
 
 29. At Hastings. See the Castle, and visit the Lover's Leap. 
 
 30. At Hastings. Visit Brede Place, Brickwall, and Bodiam Castle 
 
 (Rte. 12). 
 
 31. At Hastings. Visit Winchelsea and Rye (Rte. 13). 
 
 32. From Hastings to Pevensey (Rte. 15) ; by tlie Wartling road to 
 
 Hurstmonceux ; thence to Hailsham. 
 
 33. From Hailsham to Eastbourne (Ete. 15). By Beachy Head and along 
 
 tlie coast to Newhaven (Ete. 15). By railway to Lewes (Ete. 15). 
 
 34. At Lewes. See the Castle and town in the morning. In the afternoon 
 
 walk to Mount Caburu. 
 
 35. Sunday at Lewes. 
 
 30. Walk to ISIount Hariy. In the afternoon by railway to Brighton 
 (Rte. 14). 
 
 37. At Brighton. In the afternoon excui'sion to the Devil's Dyke (Rte. 14). 
 
 38. By railway to Shoreham (Rte. 16). See the churches of Old and New 
 
 Shoreham. Drive to Bramber Castle and Steyning (Rte. 18). 
 Return to the Shoreham Station and proceed to Worthing. 
 
 39. From Wortliing to Storrington (Rte. 18) ; visiting Broadwater Church, 
 
 Sompting Church, and Cissbuiy Hill, on the way (Ete. 16). Sleep 
 at Storrington. 
 
 40. Visit Parham and Amberley— castle and church (Ete. 18). Proceed 
 
 through Arundel Park to Arundel (Rte. 16). 
 
 41. See Arundel Castle. By railway to Chichester (Rte. 16). 
 
 42. Sunday at Chichester. 
 
 43. See Cathedral and city in the morning. In the afternoon excursion 
 
 to Bosham (Rte. 16). 
 
 44. At Cliichester. Excursion to Bosgrove and Goodwood (Rte. 16). 
 
 45. At Chichester. Excursion to Kingley Bottom and Bow Hill (Rte. 16). 
 
 46. At Chichester. Excursion across the Downs to Bignor (Rte. 16). 
 
 47. Chichester to Midhurst (Rte. 19). See Cowdray. Thence to Petworth. 
 
 48. See Petworth and Park (Rte. 19). In the evening to Godalming, 
 
 whence trains proceed to London.
 
 Introd. Skeleton Tours. xxxvii 
 
 No. II.— KENT. 
 
 Route. Chief Points of Interest [the most remark- 
 
 able WITH the Asterisk]. 
 
 Dartford Chm-cli ; Powder and Paper Mills. Exc. up the 
 
 Darent to LuUingstone. See *Darent Church. 
 
 Rochester *Cathedral ; *Castle ; *Exc. to Cobham Hall. 
 
 Chatham *Dockyard. Chatham Lines. Exc. to Isle of 
 
 Sheppey. *Sheerness Dockyard. Remarkable 
 fossils. 
 
 Faversham *Church. *Davington Priory. *View from 
 
 Broughton Hill. Visit Sellmg Church. 
 
 Canterbury *Cathech'al. *St. Augustuie's College ; *St. 
 
 Martin's Church. Views of city from Harble- 
 down and opposite hills. Exc. to *Charthain 
 and Chilham. View over the valley of the 
 Stour. Exc. to Patrixbourne and *Barfrestoa 
 Churches. 
 
 HpRNE Bay Heme Chui-ch. *Eeculver. 
 
 Ramsgate *View from high ground of Thanet. *Minster 
 
 Church. *Chiirch of St. Nicholas at Wade. 
 Osengall Hill. 
 
 Margate *North Foreland. 
 
 Sandwich *St. Clement's Church. *Richborough. 
 
 Deal Sandown Castle. *Walmer Castle. *North- 
 
 bourne Church. 
 
 Dover *Castle. nVestem Heights. Town Hall. *Exc. 
 
 to Church of St. Margaret's at Clitfe. *St. 
 Margaret's Bay. View from the Prospect 
 Tower m Waldershare Park. St. Radigund's 
 Abbey. *Shakspeare's Clitf. 
 
 Folkestone *Church. *View from Castle BUU. 
 
 Hythe *Church. *Saltwood Castle. *'Westenhanger. 
 
 *LjTniie. Exc. to Eomney Marsh. 
 
 AsHFORD Chm-ch. Exc. to Wye. Exc. to Eastwell and 
 
 Charing. *View from Eastwell Park. *Stained 
 glass in Westwell Church. Remains of 
 Archiepiscopal Palace at Charing. 
 
 Tenterden Church. 
 
 Cranbrook Church. Sissinghurst. 
 
 GouDHURST *View from Church-tower. Kilndown Chapel. 
 
 TuNBRiDGE Wells . . . . Views from Common. *High Rocks ; Toad 
 
 Rock. View from Frant Church ; *Bayham 
 Abbey ; *Mayfield ; Buckhurst ; Ashdo^Ti 
 Forest. 
 
 TuNBRiDGE *Castle. Manufacture of Tuubridgeware. Visit 
 
 to *Penshurst and *Hever Castle. 
 
 Maidstone *A11 Saints Church. *College. Excursions to 
 
 *Allington Castle ; Mailing Abbey ; Ad- 
 dington ; *Leeds Castle ; Aylesford ; *Kit's 
 Coity House. *View from Blue-Bell Hill. 
 "^Stained glass in Nettlested Church.
 
 XXXYlll 
 
 Skeleton Tours. Tntrod. 
 
 Route. Chief Points of Interest. 
 
 Sevenoaks *Knole Park. *The Moat House, Ightham. 
 
 *Clievening. Westerliam. 
 Bromley View from Holwoorl Hill. Chisleliiirst, Church 
 
 and Green. *Exc. by Valley of Cray to 
 
 Crayford. 
 Woolwich *Arseual. *Dockyard. View from Shooters 
 
 Hill. *Eltham. 
 
 Xo. III.— SUSSEX. 
 
 TunbridCtE Wells . . . . CSee Kent). 
 
 EtchinCtHam *Church. 
 
 Hastings *Views from Cliffs. Exc. to *Crowhurst. Exc. 
 
 to *Brede, Blackwall, and Bodiam Castle. 
 
 WiNCHELSEA *St. Thouias's Church. The Friars. 
 
 Rye *Church. Ypres Tower. 
 
 Battle *Abbey. Ashburnham Place and Church. 
 
 *Exc. along the Forest Kidge to East Grin- 
 stead. *View from the Heathfield Tower, 
 and *from the Cross-in-Hand luu. Kother- 
 field Church. *Crowborough Beacon. *Ash- 
 down Forest. 
 
 East Grinstead .. .. Church. *Sackville College. * Worth Church. 
 
 Balcombe Tilgate Forest. 
 
 Cuckfield Church. *Cuckfield Place. *Lindfield Church. 
 
 Church of Horsted Keynes. 
 
 Hassock's Gate Station *Ditchling Beacon. Plumpton Place. *Street 
 
 Place. Hurstpierpoint. St. John's College. 
 *Clayton Chui-ch. 
 
 Brighton St. Nicholas' Church. Pavilion. Pier. *Exc. to 
 
 Devil's Dyke. Preston. 
 
 Lewes *Castle. Euins of Priory. *The Coombe. 
 
 *]Moimt Caburn. *Mount Harry. 
 
 Newhaven Church. Seaford. *01d Parsonage at West 
 
 Dean. 
 
 Pevensey *Castle. *Church. 
 
 Hailsham Church. *Exc. to Hurstmonceux Castle. 
 
 Eastbourne *Chiu'ch. *Beachy Head. 
 
 Shoreham *Churche3 of Old and New Shoreham. Exc. 
 
 to Bramber. *Steyniug ChiU'ch. *Wiston 
 House. *Chanctonbiuy Ring. 
 
 Worthing *Sompting Church. *Broad water Church. " Ciss- 
 
 bury Hill. West Tarring. The Miller's Tomb. 
 
 Arundel *Castle and Park. *Church. Exc. to *Am- 
 
 berley. Church and Castle, and *Parham. 
 *Climping Church. 
 
 Bognor Rocks. *Hushing Well, Pagham. Pagham 
 
 Chui'ch. 
 
 Chichester "Cathedral. *Priory Church, now the Town- 
 hall. *St. Mary's Hospital. Excursions to 
 *Bosham, *Goodwood, *Boxgrove, *Kingley 
 Bottom.
 
 Introd. Skeleton Tours. xxxix 
 
 Route. Chief Points of Interest. 
 
 MiDHURST Church. *Ruins of Cowdray, and Park. Exe. 
 
 to Shulbrede Priory. 
 Petworth *House and Pictures. Church. *Exc. to 
 
 remams of Eoman viUa at Bignor. 
 
 BiLLiNGHDRST Church. 
 
 Horsham *Chureh. Denne Park. *St. Leonard's Forest. 
 
 Knepi) Castle. 
 
 No. IV.— AN ARTISTIC AND ANTIQUARIAN TOUR. 
 
 KENT.— Rochester Cathedral and Castle. Pictures at Cobham. Maid- 
 stone Church and College. Leeds Castle. Faversham Church. Davington 
 Priory. Canterbury Cathedral and St. Augustine's College. Churches of 
 Minster and St. Nicholas at Wade. Roman remains at Reculver and Rich- 
 borough. Town of Sandwich. Church of St. Margaret's at Cliflc. Bar- 
 freston and Patrixbourn Churches. Dover Castle. Hythe Church. Salt- 
 wood Castle. Ruins of the Manor-house at Westenhanger. Roman remains 
 at Lymne. Tunbridge Castle. Penshurst. Hever. Pictures at Knole. 
 The Moat House, Ightham. Sore Place, Plaxtole. 
 
 SUSSEX.— Remains of Archbishop's Palace at Mayfield. Battle Abbey. 
 Monuments in St. Thomas's Church, Winchelsea. (Collections at Ashburu- 
 ham Place, not at present shown.) Hastings Castle. Pevensey (Roman 
 walls of Anderida and Mediaeval Castle). Hurstmonceux Castle. Lewes 
 Castle. Chm-ches of Old and New Shoreham. Sompting Church. Broad- 
 water Church. StejTiing Chui'ch. Amudel Castle (pictures in the castle 
 not shown). Amberlej' Church and Castle. Parham, pictures, armour, and 
 various collections. Climping Chmx'li. Chichester Cathedi'al. Bosham 
 Church. Goodwood (pictures atj. Boxgrove Church. Up-park (pictures, 
 china, &c.). Ruins of Cowckay. Petworth (pictures and scidpture). 
 
 No. v. — A PEDESTRIAN TOUR ALONG THE NORTH 
 AND SOUTH DOWNS. 
 
 (^For 2^ortion!i of the following Tour — ivlucli embraces tJte most pictur- 
 esque portions of Surrey and Sussex, and will he found full of 
 interest — see the Handbook of Surrey and Hants.^ 
 
 Days. 
 
 1. From Reigate along the Chalk Downs by Boxhill to Dorking. 
 
 2. Visit Leith Hill ; and proceed by Shecre and Gomshall to Guildford. 
 
 3. By the Hog s Back to Famham (visit Losely and Compton by the way). 
 
 4. Across Hindhead and by the Devil's Punchbowl to Headley ; tlience 
 
 through Woolmer Forest to Selborne. 
 
 5. By Hawskley to Petersfield. 
 
 6. Through the Forest of Bere to Rowland's Castle. 
 
 7. By Stanstead Park and Bowhill to Cocking. 
 
 8. Along tlie Downs to Bignor. See the Roman villa. Sleep at the 
 
 White Horse, Sutton. 
 
 9. Along the Downs by Amberley to Storrington. Visit Parliam. 
 
 10. By Chanctonbury Ring, Stcyning, and the Devil's Dyke, to Poynings. 
 
 11. Along the Downs (over Mount HarryJ to Lewes. 
 VI. Lewes to Beachy Head and Eastbourne.
 
 HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 KENT AND SUSSEX. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 KENT. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 »* Tbo names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the j)tof« are 
 
 described. 
 
 ItOUTE ]'AGE 
 
 1 The Thames — London by 
 
 Greemcich, Woolwich, and 
 Graveseml, to IMargate 
 
 2 London to Chatham (Eail) 
 o The Ide of Shtppexj . 
 
 4 Chatliam to Canterbiu-y 
 
 5 Rocli ester to Maidstone . 
 G London by Beclienham and 
 
 Bromley to Secenoahs ; 
 Knole : Westerham . 
 
 IIOUTK 
 
 7 
 
 I'Af ; F, 
 
 Eeigate 
 
 1 
 
 19 
 50 
 Gl 
 73 
 
 96 
 
 by Godstone, Hever, 
 Peiishurst, Tunhridge, Ash- 
 ford, and Folkestone to 
 Dover 
 
 Asliford to Canterhury . 
 
 Canterbiu-y to Mar gate 
 
 10 Cantcrbm-y, by Deal 
 
 Wal liter, to Dover . 
 
 11 Canterbnrj-, by Barham 
 
 Doum, to Dover 
 
 8 
 9 
 
 and 
 
 ll.-) 
 152 
 
 18S 
 
 202 
 217 
 
 ROUTE 1. 
 
 THE THAMES— LONDON TO 
 MARGATE. 
 
 Steamers leave daily for Margate 
 from the London Bridge Wharf. 
 
 For Gravesend, steamers leave the 
 Hungerford Pier several times a day, 
 touching at Erith and Eosherville 
 Gardens. Passengers may go by 
 rail from the Feiichurch Street Sta- 
 tion to Blackwall, where the Graves- 
 end steamers also toucli. The time 
 of passage is thereby shortened about 
 1 hour. 
 
 For Greemnich, Blaelncall, and 
 
 Woolwich, steamers leave Tfunger- 
 
 ford Pier every 20 minutes, touching 
 
 \_Kr7d ((• Sussex.} 
 
 at the other jiiers in their way. 
 Deptford and Greemeirh may also be 
 readied by the direct railway, from 
 Loudon Bridge Station. 
 
 The time of transit is about 2^ hrs. 
 to Gravesend, 6 hrs. to Heme Bay, 
 and 7 to Margate. 
 
 The approach to London by tlie 
 river is the only one wliicli at once im- 
 presses a stranger with the grandeur 
 and extent of the niefroijolis. Every 
 visitor should make a point of pass- 
 ing in a steamer at least from London 
 to Greenwich. 
 
 The wliole of the Tliames, below 
 the bridges, is included in the I'ort 
 of London, wliich extends seaward a
 
 Route 1. — London to Margate. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 distance of 4 m. from the N. Fore- 
 land lighthouse. As fur as the montli 
 of the IMedway the Lord Mayor is 
 'V Conservator of the River" — having 
 imder him a deputy or water-bailiff. 
 The Admiralty claims a conciuTent 
 jurisdiction ; and the corporation of 
 Trinity House also possesses impor- 
 tant rights. By these several bodies 
 the atfairs of the river, and of the 
 diflferent stations on it connected 
 Avith the Koyal Navy, are dulv regu- 
 lated. 
 
 The tide flows nearly as high as 
 Richmond ; for a greater distance (00 
 m.) than is found in any other river 
 in Europe. Its average velocity is 20 
 ra. an hour. That of the sti'eam 
 itself is between 3 and 4 m. an hoiu-^ 
 a medium, however, deduced from 
 great inequalities arising from dif- 
 ferent soiu-ces. The water is some- 
 times brackish at London Bridge ; 
 at Gravesend it is salt but tm-bid — 
 " nevertheless it is not so impure 
 as the waters of the Ganges and 
 other celebrated rivers " — ( Cruden's 
 Gravesend) — a small consolation to 
 those who have to use it. 
 
 ■No other river in the world has 
 such an amount of ti'affic. " Thames' 
 fair bosom is the world's exchange." 
 This ceaseless passage of vessels, 
 together with the increase of London 
 itself, have not a little altered the 
 appearance of the river since Spenser 
 wi'ote of it as the " silver-streaming 
 Thames" — or since Harrison (1580j 
 described the " fat and sweete sal- 
 mons" daily taken in it. Its only jire- 
 sent contributions to the table are 
 flounders, eels, and whitebait — the 
 last sometimes untruly asserted to be 
 peculiar to the Thames. 
 
 There are sixteen bends or reaches 
 on the river between London and 
 Gravesend. This transit was for- 
 merly know as " the Long Feriy," 
 and the right of conveying passengers 
 on it was at a very early period at- 
 tached to the manors of Milton and 
 Gravesend. These were bound to 
 prepare boats for the passage, called 
 " Tilt-boats," didy supplied with 
 
 trusses of clean straw for the repose 
 of the passengers. The journey in 
 these boats was long and sometimes 
 dangerous ; and De Foe has given 
 a graphic picture of the terrors of the 
 river in a storm, when the passenger 
 was glad to be set on shore at Black- 
 wall (N. and Q. vol. ii. 209). The 
 last of these sailing boats was with- 
 drawn in 1834, after a vain straggle 
 against the steamers, which com- 
 menced running between London 
 and Gravesend, Jan. 23, 1815. 
 
 The voyage up and down the 
 Thames, especially at the tm-n of 
 the tide, presents a sight which a 
 foreigner cannot look iipon but with 
 astonishment, or an Englishman with- 
 out pride. It is very certain that 
 no other city in Europe or in the 
 world can jiresent sucii a spectacle 
 as the haven of London. At first 
 the steam-vessel slowly and with dif- 
 ficulty makes its way, stopping every 
 few minutes until some unwieldy 
 laden barge, or deeply freighted 
 merchantman bound for the docks, 
 can be moved aside or avoided so as 
 to allow the vessel to pass. At 
 times, a whole group of ships of dif- 
 ferent sizes ami classes may be seen 
 as it were entangled and obsti'uctmg 
 the passage. It is wonderful with 
 what ease they disentangle them- 
 selves. The coolness and precision 
 with which the captain of the 
 steamer, pacing the bridge between 
 the paddle-boxes, delivers his orders 
 unaffected by the tumult and dis- 
 order around, is especially worthy of 
 notice. Remark also the order in 
 which the shipping is moored on 
 either side of the river, in compact 
 squares or tiers, leaving ample s^^ace 
 in the centre for passage up and 
 down. 
 
 The river for 4 m. below London 
 Bridge is called The Fool, and con- 
 tains such of the shipping as does 
 not lie in the several docks. The 
 speed of all steamers is restricted to 
 5 m. an hour in passing through this 
 crowded part of the river. 
 
 Leaving the Hungerford Pier, the
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 1. — The Thames. 
 
 cliief points to be noticed arc — 
 Somerset House and the Temple 
 Gardens on the 1. bank ; beyond 
 rises the Dome of St. Paul's. St. 
 Saviour's Church, rt., is the next 
 point ; and below Lonilon Bridge 
 the Custoin-house and the Tower, 
 ]., -with St. Katherine's and the Lon- 
 don Docks adjoining. The forests 
 of masts which rise here belong to 
 merchantmen from all parts of the 
 world ; a class as numerous and im- 
 portant as any being the colliers. 
 
 In order to construct St. Kathe- 
 rine's Doclis, the entire parish of St. 
 Katherine's, with its 1250 houses, 
 was excavated and carried away : 
 the earth to raise the low ground 
 about Belgrave Square ; the college 
 to be refounded in the Regent's 
 Park. The Docks, which were 
 opened in 1828, cost nearly two mil- 
 lions, cover 24 acres, and accommo- 
 date annually about 1400 ships, of 
 which from 140 to 150 can lie here 
 conveniently at once. 
 
 Very near to, and below these, are 
 the London Docks ; their groves of 
 masts being also visible from the 
 river. These are of older date, cover 
 30 acres, and will contain about 500 
 sail. Off the entrance is moored the 
 Dissenting floating chapel known as 
 Noah's Ark. 
 
 Execution Dork, "Wapping, 1., was 
 the usual plage at which pirates and 
 persons committing capital crimes at 
 sea were hung at low-water mark, 
 " there to remain till three tides had 
 overflowed them.' To this neigh- 
 bourhood, according to De Foe, 
 many lied during the Plagtie, in 
 hopes that the smell of tar from the 
 shipping would prove an antidote. 
 
 Off Potherhithe Church, rt., the 
 Thames Tunnel is crossed. Beyond 
 are the Grand Surrey Docks. 
 
 Cuckold's Foint, where the river 
 bends into the Limohouse Reach, 
 was formerly distinguished by a tall 
 pole witli a pair of horns on the top. 
 The land from Charlton, near Wool- 
 wich, as far as this point, was, says 
 tradition, granted by King John to a 
 
 miller who had a " fair wife," and in 
 whose house the king was unseason- 
 ably discovered. The miller was de- 
 sired to " clear his eyes " and claim 
 as much land as he could see on the 
 Charlton side of the Thames. He 
 did so, and saw as far as this point ; 
 having a grant of the land, on con- 
 dition of Avalking once a year to 
 Cuckold's Point with a pair of horns 
 on his head. 
 
 Nearly opposite is the entrance 
 to the ir. India Docks, Avhich ex- 
 tend across the base of the flat 
 marshy peninsula called the Isle of 
 Dogs. They were constructed in 
 1800 at a cost of 1,200,000^. Their 
 water area alone is above 54 acres, 
 and they acconnnodate about 500 
 ships. The Citij Canal, now forming 
 part of these docks, was constructed 
 in order to spare vessels the necessity 
 of making a circuit of If m. round 
 the peninsula. The scheme how- 
 ever proved a failure, and it was sold 
 to the W. India Dock Company, who 
 use it as a timber-dock. 
 
 Passing into Limeliouse Reach, rt. 
 are seen the Commercicd Docks, ori- 
 ginally consti-ucted for the Green- 
 land trade. The largest of these 
 docks is supposed to have been the 
 entrance of a canal or trench, dug 
 by Canute the Dane in lOlG, during- 
 tlie blockade of London, for the 
 passage of his fleet from here tO' 
 Vauxhall, in order to avoid London 
 Bridge. Here the oil is boiled 
 during the season when the whale- 
 fishers bring home their cargoes. 
 In this read), at Deptford, is the ter- 
 mination of the Pool. 
 
 EaiTs Sluice, a little below the 
 Commercial Docks, divides the comi- 
 ties of Surrey and Kent. 
 
 For ample notices of all the 
 pjlaces hitherto mentioned, see Cun- 
 ningham's Ilandhook of London. 
 
 The little river Ivavensbourne, 
 after its junction with the Lee at 
 Lewisham, enters the Thames here 
 at Deptford Creek. Immediately 
 beyond, 4 m. from London Bridge, is 
 
 Deptford, early a place of rendez- 
 b2
 
 Route 1. — Deptford. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 vous for shipping, owing to its creek 
 of deep water {depc ford) — wliere the 
 Eavensbourne joins tlie Thames — 
 and its short distance from London. 
 Henry VIII. granted leave to the 
 " shipmen and mariners of England" 
 to found in the parish clmreh of 
 Deptford a guild or brotherhood of 
 the Holy Trinity and St. Clement, 
 with authority to make by-laws 
 among themselves for the advantage 
 and increase of the shipping. Out of 
 this brotherhood lias groAvn, with 
 some additional privileges, the pre- 
 sent Trlintij BoariJ. Their meetings 
 were formerly held in an ancient hall 
 here, which was taken down about 
 1787, when a new building was 
 erected on Tower Hill. 
 
 Two hospitals still remain at 
 Deptford connected with the Trinity 
 Board, the first dating from the reign 
 of Henry VIII., but rebuilt in 1788 ; 
 the second built toward the end of 
 the 17th cent. Pilots and ship- 
 masters are the pensioners of both. 
 
 A " Storehouse " was first estab- 
 lished at Deptford by Henry YIII. 
 about 1513, and it rapidly became 
 the most important of the royal 
 dockyards. The establishment here, 
 however, has been greatly reduced ; 
 and the " Czar of Muscovy " would 
 now find more desirable schools of 
 naval architecture than Deptford. 
 King Henry's building now forms 
 part of a rpiadrangle, additions having 
 been made at different periods. It is 
 not seen from the river. 
 
 The VldnaUiiui Offices, a long 
 range of brick buildings seen W. of 
 the Docks, are still of considerable 
 importance. At the season when 
 oxen are killed for salting, vast 
 herds of cattle are slaughtered here 
 in a manner combining the utmost 
 skill and expedition. The herd, 
 being driven into the pens, are 
 singled out by men stationed on the 
 palisades ; one of whom at a signal 
 drops down on the animal, seizing it 
 by tile horns, while another fells it 
 with one blow of his hatchet. The 
 
 process of hiscuH-halcing here is a sin- 
 gular display of expert manipulation. 
 The dough, made only of the very 
 finest flour, having been kneaded by 
 a steam-engine, which also cuts it 
 to the shape and size of a biscuit, 
 is conveyed into the bakehouse, 
 where a man stationed at one side of 
 the apartment pitches the cakes into 
 the oven at a distance of some yards 
 in such a manner that they fall 
 regularly overlapping one another, 
 and tliis with the greatest ra- 
 pidity. 
 
 Some portion of the Victualling 
 Yard covers the site of the grounds 
 and "most boscaresrpie gardens," as 
 they are called by Koger North, at- 
 tached to Sayes Court, the well- 
 known residence of John Evelyn ; 
 the hedges in whose garden' here, 
 e3:rept those of holly, which could 
 protect themselves (ilium nemo im- 
 punc lacessit, says Evelyn), were 
 ruined by Peter the Great, who 
 amused himself by driving through 
 them in a wheelbarrow, during his 
 residence at Sayes Court in 1698. 
 whilst studying and working in the 
 dockyard. The house itself has en- 
 tirelj' disappeared, and the site is 
 now occupied by the parish work- 
 house. Eveljni died here in 1706 ; 
 and much of the surrounding pro- 
 perty still remains in the possession 
 of his descendants. Sayes Com-t was 
 at an early period the residence of a 
 family of the same name ; and it will 
 be remembered as the scene of some 
 fine chapters in 'Kenilworth.' 
 
 The two Deptford churches arc 
 modern and uninteresting. In that 
 of St. Nicholas, remodelled in 1716, 
 is the momunent of Peter Pett (d. 
 1652), one of the famous shipbuild- 
 ers — "Justus sane vir, et sui sscculi 
 Noah"— and the inventor of the 
 frigate : " illud eximium et novum 
 navigii ornamentum quod nostri fri- 
 gatum mincupant, hostibus formidu- 
 iosum, suis utilissinuun atque tu- 
 tissimum, primus invenit." The 
 name and something more, however.
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 1. — Greenwich. 
 
 were borrowed from the Venetians, 
 who had oidy used tliein as ships of 
 commerce. The English were the 
 lirst to convert them to warlike pur- 
 poses. 
 
 It was here, Ajjril 4, 1581, that 
 Queen Elizabeth visited the " Golden 
 Hind," tlie ship in whicli Drake liad 
 " compassed the world." Its hull 
 was covered with barnacles (Lepas 
 aiiatifera) ; and Camden {Brituiinia) 
 alludes to its condition, as a proof 
 that " small birds have been produced 
 from old rotten hulls of ships," Her 
 Majesty dined on board ; and after 
 dinner knighted Sir Francis. The 
 ship was afterwards laid up in the 
 yard here, and the cabin converted 
 into a banqueting house for the 
 accommodation of London visitors. 
 After it was broken up, a chair made 
 of the wood was presented to the 
 I 'iii versify of Oxford. 
 
 Below Deptford, and moored near 
 the rt. bank of the river, is the 
 Dreadnought, 98 guns, now a mere 
 hulk, and fitted up as a hospital ship. 
 She captured the 8an Juan, a Spanisli 
 three-decker, at Trafalgar. 
 
 The Isle of Dihjs, opposite Dept- 
 ford, is said to have been so named 
 from a dog whose fidelity led to the 
 discovery of its master's mm-dered 
 body in the marsh here. There are 
 some traces, toward tlic centre, of a 
 rude building called " King John's 
 Dog Kennel ;" and another though 
 scarcely more probable tradition d..- 
 rives the name from the approi)ria- 
 tion of the ground to the king's 
 hounds dm'ing the hunting visits of 
 the earlier sovereigns to Greenwich 
 and Blackheath. 13axter gives it a 
 mnch earlier origin, and thinks it 
 the Comiennos of Ptolemy : Ctniiiiis 
 (Celt.); Canuiu insuld. Since 1830 
 numerous iron-shipbuilders' yards, 
 chemical works, &c., have sprung up 
 here. The remaining pasturage is 
 said to be unusually rich. 
 
 Below De|)ti'urd remark the very 
 fine view of Greeuicicli, which opens 
 as you ajipi'oach the hospital. 
 
 5 m. Greemcicli (Grcnawic — the 
 " Greentown ") — always a hill of 
 foliage rising above the river, and a 
 favourite station of the old Northmen, 
 whose "host" was frequently en- 
 camped on the high ground here — 
 was given with Deptford and Lewis- 
 ham to the Aljbey of St, Peter at 
 Ghent ( circ. 900 ), by Eltruda, niece of 
 King Alfred, and wife of Earl Baldwin 
 of Flanders. The Ghent Abbey held 
 it till the supi^ression of alien prio- 
 ries by Henry V., wdien Greenwich 
 was transferred to the Carthusians 
 of Shene, who held it until the dis- 
 solution. There were some reserva- 
 tions however ; and on a part of the 
 land thus retained the first royal 
 abode here was built by Duke 
 Hiunphrey of Gloucester, uncle to 
 Henry VI., who called his palace 
 " Placentia " or the " INIanor of 
 I'leasaimce." He also enclosed the 
 park, and built a tower on the site 
 of the present Observatory. Edward 
 IV. enlarged the palace, and it con- 
 tinued a favomite royal residence 
 until the commencement of the 
 Civil War. 
 
 Henry VIII. was born here in 1491 , 
 and was baptized in the parish ch. by 
 Fox, then Bp. of Exeter. Hero he 
 married Catherme of Arragou, and 
 Anne of Cleves ; and amongst other 
 solemn festivities during his reign, 
 the first " disguising after the mannei- 
 of Italic, called a nias';e, a thing not 
 seen afore in Englande ' (Hall), took 
 place here in 1.513 "on the dale of 
 the Epiphanie at night." Edward 
 VI. died here, Jidy G, 1553; Mary 
 was born at Greenwich, 1515 ; and 
 here, 
 
 " Pleased with the seat that gave Eliza birth, 
 We kneel and kiss the conseciatcd earth." 
 
 Elizabeth wtis born in the old 
 l)alace, Sept. 7, 1533. The famous 
 christening scene, which we can only 
 picture to ourselves witli Sliak- 
 speare's accompaniments, took place 
 in the "Friar's church" here; and 
 the house of "Placentia" was ho-
 
 6 
 
 Route 1. — Greema'ch Hospital. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 iiourcil by her frequent residence 
 tliroiighout her reign. Here, June, 
 1588, the deputies from the United 
 Provinces — 
 
 " They whom the rod of Alva bruised, 
 AVhose crown a British queen refused " — 
 
 hiid the sovereignty of their country 
 at the feet of Elizabeth. Here it 
 was that Hentzner, in 1 598, saw her 
 in all her bravery, in her " dress of 
 white silk, with pearls as large as 
 beans," a small crown on her red 
 hair, and her long train ujiborne 
 by a marchioness. Here Sir Walter 
 has placed the scene of Ealeigh's 
 first iuterxiew, when his muddied 
 cloak laid the fomidation of his sub- 
 sequent high climbing ; and from 
 the windows of her palace here the 
 Queen watched the jiinnaces of her 
 adventurous seamen, as they floated 
 by on their way to fresh discoveries 
 in the "new-found world." 
 
 James I. began a new building 
 at Greenwich called the "Queens 
 Hotise," and intended for Anne of 
 Deiunark, which Henrietta Maria em- 
 ployed Inigo Jones to finish. After 
 the restoration, Charles II. com- 
 menced a new palace, and formed the 
 l^ark. Mr. Pepys looked anxiously 
 at the designs for the " very great 
 house," " which will cost a great deal 
 of money ;" but only that part was 
 completed which now forms a por- 
 tion of the W. wing of tlie Hos- 
 pital. 
 
 This new palace was rarely inha- 
 bited ; and after the naval engage- 
 ment of La Hogue in 1G92, when 
 considerable difficulty was experi- 
 enced in providing for the care of 
 the wounded, Queen Mary an- 
 nounced her intention of converting 
 it into a hospital. Not much was 
 done, however, until after her death 
 in 1G9I: ; when the king, anxious to 
 carry out her designs, ordered plans 
 for additif)nal buildings to be j^re- 
 pared by Sir Christoplier Wren, and 
 tlie first stone of the new portion 
 was laid by Jolm Evelyn (then 
 
 Treasurer of the Navy), June 30, 
 1096, " precisel}' at five o'clock in 
 the evening, Mr. Flamstead observ- 
 ing the punctual time by instrument." 
 The Hospital was opened in Jan. 
 1705, when 42 seamen were ad- 
 mitted. There was to have been a 
 statue of the queen in the inner 
 court ; but that part of the plan was 
 never carried out ; " and few of 
 those who now gaze on the noblest 
 of European hospitals are aware 
 that it is a memorial of the virtues 
 of the good Queen Mary, of the 
 love and sorrovr of William, and of 
 the great victory of La Hogue." 
 {Macauhdj, iv. 536.) 
 
 The hospital, as it now exists, is 
 superior in its size and architecture 
 to any palace jjossessed by the sove- 
 reign of this coimtry exccjjt Windsor ; 
 and the foreigner approaching Lon- 
 don by the river can hardly i'ail to 
 be struck with admiration when he 
 learns the destination of this noble 
 building ; occupjing, as it does, a 
 site so thoroughly appropriate, where 
 the veteran sailors of England, whilst 
 enjoying a well-earned repose, are 
 still in their element, among shijD- 
 ping constantly passing and rejiass- 
 ing before them. 
 
 " Hie requies senectee, 
 Ilic modus lasso maris et viarum 
 Militiajque." 
 
 Passengers are landed from the 
 steamers immediately in front of 
 the hospital, which is open freely to 
 the puldic on Mon. and Fri. On 
 other dtiys a small fixed stim is paid 
 for admission to the hall and chapel. 
 Before leaving the pier, observe, in 
 front of the 1. wing of the Hosjiital, 
 the memorial to Ijieut. Bellot, of 
 the French Imp. Navy — the Avell- 
 known Arctic navigator. It is an 
 obelisk of red granite inscribed with 
 his name alone, and was erected by 
 public subscription. 
 
 A noble terrace, 860 ft. long, with 
 a central flight of steps opening to 
 the water, extends in front of the 
 Hospital, which consists of four
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 1. — Greenwich Hospital. 
 
 distinct portions — King Charles's 
 (N.W.), Queen Auue's (N-E.), King 
 William's (S.W.), and Queen Marj-'s 
 (S.E.) King Charles's and Queen 
 Anne's buildings immediately face 
 the river, and are divided by the 
 great square, beyond which are seen 
 the hall and chapel witli their colon- 
 nades. At the back is the " Queen's 
 House," built by Inigo Jones for 
 Henrietta Maria ; and beyond again 
 rise the green elms of the Parir, 
 clustering about the royal Observa- 
 tory. This view — -of its kind almost 
 unequalled — • should be carefully 
 watched for. It is, perhaps, best seen 
 from the river, but should be also 
 noticed from the pier. The statue 
 of George II. in the centre of the 
 square is by Rysbrach, and is sculp- 
 tured from a block of white marble 
 taken at sea from the French by >Sir 
 George Rooke. The eastern side only 
 of King Charles's building formed a 
 part of his uniinished palace ; the 
 designs for the rest of this portion 
 were supplied by Wren. The go- 
 vernor and other officers have their 
 apartments here ; and there are 
 wards for 523 men — one of which is 
 always ojjen for public inspection. 
 Queen Anne's building, on the oppo- 
 site side of the square, contains wards 
 for 424 pensioners. 
 
 King William's quarter formed 
 part of Wren's designs, and contains 
 what is now known as the Painted 
 Hall, originally intended for the 
 common dining-hall of the Hospital. 
 Some of the external decorations 
 are due to Sir Jolm Vanbrugh. The 
 alto-relievo on the E. side is by 
 West, and professes to be an emble- 
 matical representation of the Deatli 
 of Nelson. In this quarter are 
 wards for .505 pensioners, a dining- 
 hall, and a kitchen. 
 
 Queen Mary's building, opposite, 
 contains the chay^el, and wards for 
 1081 pensioners. Tlie entire number 
 of pensioners wlio can be received 
 here is 2710. All must be seamen 
 or royal marines. They are entirely 
 
 provided for, and receive in addition 
 a small money allowance weekly. 
 The funds from which the Hospital 
 is supported consist of estates in 
 Nortlnnnbcrland and Durham, being 
 the forfeited lands of the Earls of 
 Derwentwatcr, annexed to the hos- 
 pital in 1752 ; property in Greenwich ; 
 and the interest of funded capital, 
 including a sum of G472Z., the i^ro- 
 perty of Kid the pirate, given by 
 Queen Anne in 17U5 — all of Avhich 
 has been granted by royal and other 
 benefactors. The present expcndi- 
 tiu-e is about 1.3(),000L per annmn, 
 and the entire nmnber of i^ensioners 
 24G0. 
 
 Tlie principal sights in the hospi- 
 tal, are the Painted Hall, the Chapel, 
 and the Durmitory. 
 
 The rainted Hall (by Wren, 1703, 
 lOG ft. by 56, and 50 ft. high) con- 
 tains a very interesting collection of 
 naval pictures, chiefly the gift of 
 George IV. from the royal collections, 
 which have been arranged here since 
 1 825. In the vestibule are casts from 
 the statues in St. Paul s of Howe 
 (Flaxman), St. Vincent (Baily), 
 Duncan (Westmacott), and Nelson 
 {Flaxman). The flags above them 
 were taken by these commanders 
 from the enemy at sea. The ceiling 
 of the Great Hall, together with the 
 paintings in the upper division, are 
 tlie work of Sir .James Thornhill, 
 who was engaged here from 1708 to 
 1727. In the centre of the ceiling 
 are William and Mary, waited upon 
 by the cardinal virtues : the rest is 
 a mass of allegory which the visitor 
 will hardly care to decipher. The 
 general effect is rich, and har- 
 monises well with the architecture. 
 Remark that the inscription running 
 round the frieze contains Queen 
 Mary's name alone, as that of the 
 foundress of the hospital. In this 
 hall the body of Nelson lay in state 
 for tliree days before it was removed 
 by water to the Admiralty. 
 
 Of the pictures, the most interest- 
 in"; are —
 
 8 
 
 Iloute 1. — Greenwich Hospital. 
 
 Sect. I, 
 
 In the Vestibule: Vasco di Get ma, 
 from au original at Lisbon ; and 
 Colunihus, from a portrait by Par- 
 megiano at Naples. 
 
 In the Great Ilall (the numbers 
 correspond to those on the pictures) : 
 4, Charles Howard, Earl of Notting- 
 ham, Lord High Admiral in com- 
 mand at tlie defeat of tlie Armada : 
 Zucchero. 5, Sir Cliristopher Myngs ; 
 6, Sir Tliomas Tyddiman; 7, Sir 
 John Harman ; 13, Lord Sandwich ; 
 40, Sir Joseph Jordan; 41, Sir 
 William Berkley; 43, Sh Thomas 
 Allen ; 8(J, Duke of Albemarle ; 90, 
 Sir Jeremy Smith ; 92, Sir William 
 Penu ; 95, Sir George Askue : all 
 half-lengths, by Sir Peter Lely, and 
 all engaged in the action with the 
 Dutch fleet, June 1st, 1666. Mr. 
 Pepys tims refers to these pictures, 
 which were given to the hospital bv 
 George IV. :— " To Mr. Lilly's, the 
 painter's, and there saw the heads — 
 some finished, and all begun — of the 
 llagg-men in the late great fight with 
 the Duke of York against the Dutch. 
 Tlie Duke of York hath these 
 done to hang in his cliamber, and 
 very finely they are done indeed. " 
 11, Robert Blake, comiiosition by 
 Brigrjs, li.A. 15, Sir Cloudesley 
 Shovel, lost off the Scilly Islands, 
 1707, Michael Dald. 16, Admiral 
 Chiu-chill, Kueller. 20, Lord Hugli 
 Seymour, Hoppner. 30, Admiral 
 Benbow, Kueller. 31,- Alexander 
 Hood, 1st Lord Bridport, Reynolds. 
 32, Sir William Whetsone, Dald. 
 34, E. Russell, Earl of Orford, 
 Bockmaii. 35, Sir George Rooke, 
 JJaJol. 36, Sir Charles Hardy, Bom- 
 neij. 37, Sir Edward Hughes, Reij- 
 nolds. 42, Prince George of Denmark, 
 Lord Higli Admhal (Est-il possible ? 
 Macaulay, ii.), Kneller. 44, Captain 
 Cook, Dance. 49, King William IV., 
 Morton. 53, Sir John Muuden, Dald. 
 54, Admiral Kempcufeldt, lost in 
 the Royal George, Kettle. 55, Sir 
 Thomas Dilkes, Kneller. 61, Ad- 
 miral Thomas Smith, called " Tom 
 of Ten Tliousand," II. Wilson. 62, 
 
 1st Lord Exmouth, Oa-en. 67, Sir 
 Tliomas Hardy, Evans. 73, Lord 
 CoUingwood, Howard. 87, Alger- 
 non Percy, 10th Earl of Northum- 
 berland, the elder Stotie, after Vandyke. 
 89, Admiral Gell, Reynolds. 
 
 Beside the portraits, remark — 10, 
 Defeat of the Armada, Loutherhenj. 
 22, George HI. presenting a sword to 
 Earl Howe, on board the Queen 
 Charlotte, at Spithead, Briggs. 21, 
 Action of 1st June, 1794, Loutherberg. 
 27, Admiral Duncan receiving the 
 sword of the Dutch Admiral De 
 Winter, 1797, Drummond. 45, Death 
 of Cook, Zoffany. 63, Bombardment 
 of Algiers, Chambers. 64 and 81, 
 Six small pictiu-es representing the 
 loss of the "Luxemburgh" galley, 
 burnt in her passage from Jamaica 
 to London in 1727 ; a part of tlie 
 crew, 23 in number, escaped iu the 
 long boat, and were at sea from June 
 25 to July 7 without food or drink : 
 6 only siu-vived. 68, Death of Nelson. 
 Devis. 72, Tlie Battle of Trafalgar, 
 Turner ; pn'eseiited by George IV. in 
 1829 from St. James's Palace. 77, 
 Victory of Aboukir Bay, G. Arnold. 
 82, Nelson boarding the San Josef, 
 in the action off Cape St. Vincent, 
 G. Jones. 88, Victory of Quiberou 
 Bay, Nov. 20, 1759, Dominic Serves. 
 
 Many of the other pictures, al- 
 though copies, are of much interest, 
 and deserve examination. 
 
 The walls and ceiling of the Upper 
 null are the work of Sir James 
 Thornhill. The subjects on the 
 walls are the two landings fatal 
 to the Stuarts ; that of William 
 III. at Torbay, and the arrival of 
 George I. at Greenwich. From the 
 ceiling look down Queen Anne and 
 Prince George of Denmark. In 
 glass-cases here are preserved the 
 coat and waistcoat worn by Nelson 
 at Trafalgar, and the coat worn by 
 him at the battle of the Nile iu 
 1798. Here are also the relics of 
 Sir John Franklin's Polar Expedi- 
 tion, recovered by Dr. Rae in 1854. 
 Among the models displayed here
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 1. — Greenwich Park. 
 
 are those of the " Victoiy," lost in 
 1744 — of the "Centurion," which 
 accompanied Anson in his voyage 
 round the workl— and of the " Eoyal 
 George," lost at Spitliead 1782. On 
 the model of a ships capstan is 
 placed an astrolabe which belonged 
 to Sir Francis Drake. 
 
 In a small room beyond are a 
 series of pictures illustrating the 
 life of Nelson, most of which are by 
 Westall. The unfinished portrait of 
 Nelson, by Abbot (1798), is interest- 
 ing. Remark also a view of Green- 
 wich Hospital as it was in 1690. 
 
 The C7ta/)e/, in Queen Mary's build- 
 ings, was ail-but burnt down in 1779. 
 It was then restored, fi'om designs by 
 Athenian Stuart; and in 1851 was 
 again " renovated." The statues in 
 the vestibule are by West. Within the 
 chapel, the designs over the lower 
 windows are by l3e Bruyn, and illus- 
 trate the life of Christ. The altar- 
 piece — St. Pauls Sliipwreck at Me- 
 lita— is by West, who also supi^lied 
 the designs for the pulpit and read- 
 ing-desk. On eitlier side of the 
 portal screen, which is very elabo- 
 rate, are memorials of Sir Eichard 
 Keats and Sir Thomas Hardy, both 
 governors of the hospital. The bust 
 of Keats ( Chant rey) was given by 
 William IV. as a lucmorial " of his 
 old shipmate and watchmate ;" tliat 
 of Hardy is by Behnes. 
 
 The Queens House, called bv Anne 
 of Denmark the "House of Delight," 
 at the back of the main courts, and 
 seen from the river below the Ob- 
 servatory, has liecn appropriated, 
 with some additional buildings, to 
 the children .if seamen who have 
 served in the navy. There are 
 three distinct scliools: — 1. for 400 
 sons of officers ; 2. 400 sons of sea- 
 men or marines ; 3. 200 guis : all 
 fed, clothed, and educated. 
 
 In the cemetery attached to the 
 hospital is interred (1774) Nich. 
 Tindal, the translator and continua- 
 tor of Kapiii's Hist, of England, and 
 one of the cliaplains. 
 
 The Donnitonj usually visited is 
 that in K. Charles's wing, and was 
 originally intended for the library 
 of the palace. It is a long room 
 fitted up with small chambers, in 
 which the pensioners are quartered. 
 
 The pensioners' diuing-lialls(, which 
 may be walked through) are below 
 the Painted Hall. In K. Cliarlcs's 
 building there is a library for their 
 use. The stone globes, celestial and 
 terrestrial, at the W. entrance to the 
 hospital, should be noticed. They 
 are C ft. in diameter, and are fixed in a 
 position according with the latitude. 
 
 Behind the Hospital stretches up 
 the ancient Park of the palace, con- 
 taining about 188 acres. It was 
 walled round with Inick ]iy James I., 
 and in tlie reign of Charles II. was 
 laid out by the celebrated Le Notre, 
 who then presided over the gardens 
 of Versailles. The scenery is of 
 extreme beauty, the finest points 
 being the high ground of the Ob- 
 servatory, whence is a superb view 
 over London and the Thames ; and 
 an eminence near the eastern border 
 of the Park, known as " One Tree 
 Hill," from whence the view is 
 said to extend to Windsor Castle. 
 " Would you believe," writes Walpole 
 to Bcutley (July, 1755), "I liad 
 never been in Greenwich Park V I 
 never had, and am transported. 
 Even the glories of Richmond and 
 Twickenliam hide their diminished 
 heads." The only present requisite 
 seems to be a better turf. No won- 
 der that Queen Elizabeth " used 
 to walke much in the parkc, and 
 great walkes out of the parke 
 and about the parke." Much of 
 tlie tragedy of ' Irene " was com- 
 posed by Johnson, who had lodg- 
 ings in Church Street in 1 737, wlulst 
 pacing its avenues. Tlie elms, says 
 Evelyn, were planted in 1GG4 ; the 
 Spanisli chesnuts, although arranged 
 in the same regular avenues, are 
 apparently of greater age. Green- 
 wich fair, tiunous for its somewhat 
 rough liumours, was, until 185(.!, held 
 
 b3
 
 10 
 
 Route 1. — Greenwich — Observatory. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 in the park during "Whitsiin week. It 
 is now abolislied. The average num- 
 ber of visitors to tlie Park on fine 
 Suuda3-s is 80,000. 
 
 The Observatory was erected in 
 1675, on the site of Duke Hiunplirey's 
 Tower, called 3L>e//ei(r,— said by 
 Hentzner to have been the original 
 of the Tower of Miraflores, figuring 
 in ' Amadis de Gaul.' The remains 
 of this romantic tower were taken 
 down by Charles II., and Flamstead 
 was appointed the first astronomer- 
 royal for the new Observatory. A 
 series of eminent names lias fol- 
 lowed his, including those of Ilalley, 
 Bradley, Maskelyne, and of the present 
 Astronomer Eoyal, Airy. The Ob- 
 servatory is not open to the public ; 
 and the "portions of the building in 
 sight are little used. In the two 
 tiurets on the leads, however, 
 active operations are constantly in 
 progress. In one is a contrivance 
 for hourly registering the force 
 and direction of the wind ; and 
 another for marking in decimals of 
 an inch the quantity of rain that 
 falls. In the eastern turret is tlie 
 time-ball, 5 feet across, and stuft'ed 
 with cork, which descends regularly 
 at 1 P.M., marking the time as truly 
 as the sun. " All the ships in the 
 river watch it to set their chrono- 
 meters by before they sail ; and all 
 the railway clocks and trains over 
 the kingdom are arranged punc- 
 tually by its indications. " In the 
 building is a chronometer-room, to 
 which the chief watchmakers in 
 London send their choicest instru- 
 ments for examination and trial. 
 Besides the Greenwich ' Tables of 
 the Moon,' which have a world-wide 
 reputation, a course of magnetic and 
 meteorological observations is pur- 
 sued here, of the highest interest 
 and importance (' Household Words,' 
 i. 200.) It also appears that Green- 
 wich Observatory has a consideraljle 
 popular reputation as an abode of 
 sorcerers and astrologers ; and re- 
 markable applications for casting 
 
 nativities, and for infoi-mation as to 
 forthcoming wives and husbands, 
 are occasionally made here. 
 
 A doorway in the S.E. corner of 
 the Park opens on Blackheafh. (See 
 Etc. 2.) 
 
 E. of Greenwich Hospital rises 
 Norfolk College, niav]i.ed by its square 
 central turret. It was built and en- 
 dowed, in 1603, by Henry Earl of 
 Northampton, younger son of the 
 Earl of Surrey, and grandson of the 
 Duke of Norfolk ; hence its name. 
 It supports 22 poor and a warden. 
 The Mercers' Company are the 
 trustees. In the chapel, consecrated 
 1617, are the remains and monimient 
 of the founder, removed here in 
 1696 from the ruined church in 
 Dover Castle. 
 
 Queen Elizaheth's Collefje, S.W. ot 
 the town, was founded in 1576 by 
 Lambarde, author of the ' Perambu- 
 lation of Kent,' the first book of 
 local history published in England. 
 
 The roof of the old Church at 
 Greenwich, in which Hen. YIII. was 
 baptised, fell in, in 1710. The pre- 
 sent building dates from 1718 and 
 is quite ruiinteresting. Gen. Wolfe, 
 the conqueror of Quebec, was buried 
 here in 1759, his family having re- 
 sided at Blackheath. Here is also 
 buried Lavinia Duchess of Bolton, 
 the original Polly Peachum of Gaj'"s 
 opera. The earlier ch. was dedi- 
 cated to St. Alphage, Abp. of Can- 
 terbury, who, after the sack of Can- 
 terbury in 1012, was kept prisoner in 
 the Danish camp at Greenwich for 
 7 months, and then martyred. It 
 contained monuments to Thos. Tallis, 
 the "King's musician' (d. 1585), 
 "lather of the collegiate style," and 
 to Lambarde the historian, whose 
 tomb was removed to Sevenoaks, 
 where it now is. 
 
 Greenwich abounds in Hotels, or 
 more properly taverns ; the best of 
 which are, tlie Trafalgar (very good), 
 the Crown and Sceptre, and the Ship. 
 All these are much frequented by 
 I^arties from I>oudon, especially
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 1 . — Woolwich Dochyard. 
 
 11 
 
 during the whiteljait season. This 
 most delicate fish, oue of the sj^e'cial- 
 ites of London gastronomy, is found 
 only in this part of the river, near 
 Greeuwieli and Blackwall, between 
 the months of April and August. 
 It was at one time supposed to be 
 the fry of larger fish, and the catch- 
 ing of it was pronounced illegal : but 
 English ichthyologists, and princi- 
 pally Mr. Yarrell, have proved it to 
 be a distinct species belonging to 
 the Clupeidai (lierring family), and 
 have bestowed on it the name of 
 Clujpea alha ; thereby relieving lord 
 mayors and aldermen " from the 
 awful responsibility of convicting 
 whitebait fishers in the morning, 
 and feasting on the ' pisciculos mi- 
 uutos' in the evening." 
 
 Leaving Greenwich, the steamers 
 touch at Blackwall, 65 m., where is 
 the terminus of the London Eailway, 
 and close adjoining, the Blackioall 
 Docks, especially appropriated to 
 vessels trading to India and China. 
 Vessels of 14U0 tons get up to these 
 docks ; the entrance-basin of which 
 is common to the Blackwall and the 
 W. India Docks ; the latter extend- 
 ing between Blackwall. and Lime- 
 house, at both of which places there 
 are entrances. There are many 
 taverns here famoiis for their white- 
 bait aud fish dinners ; the best being 
 the West India Dock Tavern, and 
 Lovegrove's Hotel. The Lea, which 
 here, at Bow Creek, falls into the 
 Thames, forms the boimdary be- 
 tween Middlesex and Essex. 
 
 The Esses or 1. bank is rpiite 
 without interest, rt. The green liills 
 of Charlton (see ^a. 2) are seen, 
 a continuation of the chalk escarp- 
 ment in Greenwich Park ; and then 
 appear the great building-sheds of 
 
 9^ m. Woolwich Dockyard, claim- 
 ing, with wliatever justice, to be the 
 " Mother Dock of England." A 
 royal dock is at all events known to 
 have existed here in 1515 ; but 
 Erith disputes with Woolwich the 
 honour of liaving been the birthplace 
 
 of the famous " Henrye • Grace de 
 Dieu," tlie ship which conveyed 
 Henry VIII. to the Field of the 
 Cloth of Gold, and on the deck of 
 which the King is seen standing in 
 the well-known Windsor picture of 
 his embarkation at Dover. (There 
 is a copy of this picture ui the 
 Painted Hall at Greenwich.) Gius- 
 tiuian, the Venetian ambassador, 
 describes it as "a galeas of unusual 
 magnitude, with such a number of 
 heavy guns that we doubt wliether 
 any fortress, however strong, could 
 resist their tire." It was, according 
 to him, launched at Erith, in October 
 1515. The King and Queen attended 
 the launch, " with well-nigli all the 
 lords and prelates of the kingdom, 
 and all dmed on board at the Kings 
 charge." The cost of tliis " grete 
 shippe'" was 6478L 8s. 0%d. ; and it 
 took 4 days and 400 men to work it 
 from Erith to Barking. 
 
 Whether the "Henrye" can be 
 claimed for Woolwich or not, in 
 1559 Queen Elizabeth was present 
 at the launching of a very large 
 ship here, to which she gave her 
 own name. Among other celebrated 
 ships built at Woolwich was " The 
 Eoyal Sovereign" (1637), called by 
 the Dutch " The Golden Devil," 
 from the gilt carvings witli which 
 she was covered, and the active 
 part she played during the Com- 
 monwealth war with Holland. A 
 fine picture of this ship, by Van- 
 dcvelde, with a portrait in the 
 foreground of its builder, Phineas 
 Pett, exists in the collection of the 
 Earl of Yarborough. The ill-fated 
 " Koyal George" was built here in 
 1751 : and since the adoption of 
 steam by the Eoyal Navy, Woolwich 
 has received an accession of impor- 
 tance. It is now the chief steam 
 dock in England ; and the " Eoyal 
 Albert," launched here in 1854, is 
 tlie largest man-of-war as yet built 
 after the fashion which has entirely 
 cliangcd the character of naval war- 
 fare.
 
 12 
 
 Route 1. — The Thames. — Erith. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Tlie steamer coasts along Wool- 
 wich Dockyard for nearly 1 m., a 
 for more "noble slight" now than 
 when Fielding passed it on his way 
 to Lisbon. It is open at all times, 
 from 9 to 11.30, and from 1 to 5.30. 
 The most remarkable objects are — 
 
 The Covered Slips, among which 
 notice esijecially the iron shed 
 erected over sliiJ No. 5. It consists 
 of one centre span, 82 ft. wide, by 
 2(jl ft. long, and 94 in height, witli 
 two side spans attached, each 32 ft. 
 wide and 232 long. This, completed 
 in 1857, has been jironovmced one of 
 the finest buildings of the kind ex- 
 isting. 
 
 The Anclior Forge, where 
 
 " the monstrous mass they beat 
 l"o save from adverse winds and waves the 
 gallant British fleet," 
 
 anil the Giant Shears, for masting 
 and dismasting vessels. 
 
 In the Steam Engine Factory the 
 largest engines are made ; and the 
 clang of 100 hammers incessantly re- 
 sounds here in the dei')artment of the 
 boiler-makers. 
 
 The yard contams two large dry 
 docks, and a basin 400 ft. long by 
 300 wide, capable of receiving the 
 largest vessels. 
 
 Off the yard is a chain of Imlks 
 for the detention of convicts, who 
 are daily moved on shore to the 
 public works. Under certain restric- 
 tions, a portion of the value of their 
 work is reserved for their own use. 
 Each convict liulk has three decks, 
 contains a chapel, and has 600 men 
 on board. 
 
 Beyond the Dockyard are the 
 wharfs of the Royal Arsenal, marked 
 by their cranes for loading Ord- 
 nance storeshiiis, and by the range 
 of storehouses opposite. There is 
 a military ferry from the Arsenal to 
 Duval's Point on the opposite side 
 of the river, so that artillery may be 
 sent into the eastern counties from 
 the depot here without passing 
 through London. The river here is 
 
 i m. broad. (For a fidl notice of 
 Woolwich see Kte. 2.) 
 
 At the back of Woolwich rises 
 Shooter's Hill, with the tower, com- 
 memorating the taking of Severn- 
 droog, on its summit. 
 
 The Thames, from London to 
 Gravesend, is retained within its pre- 
 sent limits by very large embank- 
 ments, the date of which is unknown. 
 The river is several feet liigher than 
 the level of the siuTounding coimtry, 
 being in effect an aqueduct, raised 
 and sujiported between its artificial 
 banks. These are well marked in 
 this part of its course. It has been 
 suggested that they were the work 
 of the abbeys of Stratford, in Essex, 
 and Lesnes, near Erith, both of 
 which were established during the 
 12t]i cent. Others have given them 
 an earlier date. " The })robability 
 is that they are the work of the 
 ancient Britons, vmder Koman su- 
 perintendence. That they are the 
 result of skill and bold enterprise, 
 not unworthy of any period, is 
 certain." ( Walker's Tliames Re- 
 port, 1841.) On cither side of the 
 river, behind these embankments, 
 and below the surface of alluvial 
 mud, is a stratum of marine deposit, 
 indicating that a wide arm of the 
 sea once stretched much farther in- 
 land than at present. 
 
 The little stream of tlie Roding 
 joins the Thames from the Essex side 
 a short distance below Woolwich ; 
 but although the rt. bank rises to 
 some height, there is not much to 
 interest until we reach 
 
 I62 m. Erith, rt. — Sax. mrre-hythe, 
 the old haven, still a very pretty and 
 rural village, in the midst of green 
 lanes and pleasant footpaths, in spite 
 of pier, hotel, lodging-houses, and 
 similar indications of an increasing 
 influx of visitors from London. The 
 claim f)f Erith to be the place where 
 King Henry's great ship was built has 
 already been noticed. Erith Church, 
 half-coveredwithivy, ispicturesquely 
 placed inider the rising bank. It
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 1. — Eritli. — Furfleet. 
 
 13 
 
 contains portions ranging from E.E. 
 to Perp., and is interesting in &\Aie 
 of much disfiguration. There are 
 some good brasses, the earliest being 
 John Aylmer and wife, 1405. There 
 is also an elaborate altar-tomb with 
 effigy, for Elizabeth Countess of 
 Shrewsbmy, d. 1.568 ; and in the 
 chancel an indifferent monument by 
 Chantrey to the late Lord Eardlcy. 
 In this ch. the year after the signing 
 of Magna Charta, a meeting took 
 place between Hubert de Burgh and 
 others on the King's part, and cer- 
 tain of the Barons, with the view of 
 effecting a final peace, which the 
 Great Chai'terhad not as j-et brought 
 about. Weaver the antiquary, who 
 has preserved so many monumental 
 inscriptions, held the rectory of Erith 
 temp. Jas. I. 
 
 W. of the town is an immense 
 sand-pit, with about 40 ft. of perp. 
 frontage, full of interest for the geo- 
 logist. Below the sand may be 
 traced the bed of ii'onstone and 
 clay which around Ijondon is gene- 
 rally found to rest on the chalk, here 
 seen below. In the clay here bones 
 and tusks of elephants and other 
 mammals have been found. Some 
 plants of rarity occur in the neigh- 
 bouring marshes. 
 
 Among the trees at the top of the 
 hill, and seen from the river, appears 
 tlie prospect tower of Belvidere (Sir 
 Culling Eardley). The lower lodge 
 is very near the ch. ; but the public 
 entrance to the park is on the top of 
 tlie hill, 5 m. distant, and rather 
 beyond the house, a large brick man- 
 .sion, commanding a fine view over 
 the Thames and its shipping. The 
 collection of pictures liere, a very im- 
 portant one, is shown by tickets, 
 ^yhich may be procured from Mr. 
 Dal ton, bookseller, Cockspui- St., 
 price Is. each. Among them remark 
 especially : — 
 
 The Entombment, Roger van der 
 Weyden. Tlie Koot of Jesse ; an ex- 
 •luisite work by an imknown master 
 of the school of Bruges, circ. 1500. 
 
 Snyders' wife and child, Vandyclc. 
 Time bringing Truth to IAght,Eiibens. 
 The Alchemists ; Gambling Banditti ; 
 and the Picture Gallery, Teniers. 
 Duchess of Buckingham, and 4 
 children, Vandyck. Admiral Tromp, 
 Hals. The Unjust Steward, Q. 
 Matsys. The Golden Age, P. 
 Breuqliel. And two very fine Muril- 
 los — the Assumption of the Virgin, 
 one of his finest works ; and a Flight 
 into Egypt. 
 
 [A pleasant excursion may be 
 made by landing at Erith, visiting 
 the ch. and Belvidere, and then 
 walking to Woolwich by the lower 
 road, 5 m. seeing Lesnes Abbey by 
 the way (see Kte. 2), and returning 
 to London by railway. " The variety 
 of the scenery along this road is very 
 great, alternating with the beauties 
 of hills, flats, and water. Among 
 the windings of the road, the foliage 
 and uneven ground, with their grand 
 and massive depths of colour, present 
 you with a picture after the taste of 
 Gaspar Poussra. In a few paces 
 the view changes to an ojien reach 
 of the Tliames, all in breezy motion 
 with vessels, and Vandevelde thrusts 
 out Poussin ; Vandevelde in his 
 turn gives way to Cuyp, as you come 
 upon the flat sprinkled with cattle, 
 and lighted up with broad beams of 
 smishine." — Felix Summerlcy.'^ 
 
 Close to Erith Pier, extensive 
 public gardens have been formed 
 along the bank of the river. A little 
 below, 1., are the chalk and sand 
 clifls of 
 
 ISi m. Furfleet, formed by exca- 
 vations in the chalk resembling 
 those at Northfleet (see post). Bea- 
 con Hill, immediately above the vil- 
 lage, is high and jiicturesque. Queen 
 Eliz., whose chance words are said 
 to have given names to many places 
 in this neighbourhood, has the re- 
 putation of iiaving thus named Pur- 
 fleet ; a corruption, says tradition, 
 of "Oh my poor fleet!" her Majesty's 
 gracious exclamation when looking 
 from this spot on her ships depart-
 
 14 
 
 Route 1. — GreenhUhe. — Gray^s Thurroch. Sect. I. 
 
 ing to encounter the Armada. Tlio 
 fleet, liowevcr, both here and at 
 Northfleet, is the trench or cut- 
 ting through wliich the water from 
 the marshes flows into the Thames. 
 
 The low grey buildings seen here 
 are the Government powder maga- 
 zines, estabUshed in 1759, when 
 they were removed from Greenwich, 
 tlie inhabitants of which place jjeti- 
 tioned against them as dangerous. 
 They are capable of containing 30,000 
 barrels of powder. Tlie roofs are 
 vaulted, and the doors, &c., coi^per- 
 fastened. 
 
 A great number of merchant ves- 
 sels and others are always to be seen 
 lying oif Erith and Purfleet. Only 
 a fixed numl:»er are admitted at once 
 to the London Docks. Those in 
 waiting " bide their time " here and 
 at Gravesend. 
 
 Oi^posite Pm-fleet the river Da- 
 rent, navigable as high as Dartford 
 (about 3 m.), falls into the Thames, 
 having received its tributary, the 
 Cray, below the town. The Dart- 
 ford Creek was famous for its salmon 
 fishery as late as James I. ; to the 
 great comfort of the Dartford 
 monks, whose purse and table were 
 alike benefited thereby. 
 
 The Church of Stone, rt., on its 
 hillock, is the next landmark. It 
 has E. E. and Dec. portions, the 
 latter very rich, and of much in- 
 terest. The arcade round the chancel 
 has a series of jjilasters, with Weald 
 marble shafts and mouldings. Ke- 
 mark the curious door (Tr. Norm.) 
 on the N. side of nave. The chapel 
 N. of the chancel is late Perp., and 
 was built by Sir John Wiltshire, 
 temp. Hen. VIII., whose altar-tomb 
 .still remains in it. Brasses : John 
 Eumbarde, rector, 1-llS (very good) ; 
 John Sorewell, rector, 1439. The 
 manor early belonged to the Bps. of 
 Eochester, who probably erected the 
 chm'ch. Stone Chruxdi, which should 
 on no account be neglected by the 
 antiquary, may be visited from 
 
 21^ m. Gr&enhiilte, rt., from which 
 
 it is distant about 1 m. Here, and 
 at other points on either bank, are 
 numerous chalk-pits and cuttings, 
 some of which ai'e of great antiquity. 
 The chalk worked throughout this 
 part of Kent is converted into lime on 
 the spot, and sent to London and else- 
 where for building and manuring pm- 
 poses. Greenhithe, where there is a 
 pier, dei'ives its principal importance 
 from this chalk traffic. Beyond the 
 village the green lawns of Ingress 
 Abbey (James Harmer, Esq.) stretch 
 pleasantly down to the waterside. 
 Ingress was a grange attached to the 
 Priory of Dartford. The present 
 house was partly built with stones 
 from Old London Bridge. 
 
 From Greenhitlie, June 19, 1845, 
 the "Erebus" and "Terror," under Sir 
 John Franklin and Caj^tain Crozier, 
 sailed on their last fatal expedition — 
 the 5Sth, and, it is to be hoped, the 
 final, expedition for the exjjloration 
 of the Polar Seas despatched from 
 England. 
 
 Besides Stone, the villages of Cray- 
 ford, Dartford, and Swanscombe (see 
 lite. 2), lie at easy distances inland 
 from Greenhithe, and afford very 
 pretty walks and drives. 
 
 On the 1. bank, which has become 
 rather more interesting below Pur- 
 fleet, the long irregular street of 
 
 235 m. Gray's TJiurroch appears 
 opposite Greenhithe. It has a trade 
 in bricks, which are made here. 
 One of the branches of the "Grey" 
 family formerly held, and gave name 
 to, the manor. The modern Gothic 
 building at the back of the town is 
 Belmont Castle (Richard W\-bb, 
 Esq.). At Little TJiurroch are some 
 of those remarkable excavations in 
 the chalk, also foimd at E. Tilbury, 
 (see post), Daiiford, and other places 
 adjoining the Thames. They are 
 here called "Dane holes," or "Cuno- 
 beline's Gold Mines." 
 
 We are now in " Fiddler's Ecach ;" 
 so named perhaps from the irregular 
 swell of the water, called by seamen 
 "fiddling." The tomist may how-
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 1 . — Northfieet. — Gravesend. 
 
 15 
 
 ever, if lie prefers it, adopt a tradition 
 ■which asserts tliat three liddk'rs 
 were once drowned here. 
 
 At Northjieet, rt. {Inns: India 
 Arms ; Plough and Harrow), closely 
 adjoining Gravesend, remark the sin- 
 gular masses of chalk along the bank, 
 now covered with brushwood. These 
 have been left daring the excava- 
 tions, as not containing chalk of 
 good quality, and the result is very 
 picturesque. Advantage has been 
 taken of these excavations in form- 
 ing the Iioshe7-ville Gardens{so named 
 from their first proprietor, Jeremiali 
 Kosher, Esq.), which lie between 
 Northfleet and Gravesend, and have 
 become a favourite resort. Some 
 of the cliiis in these gardens are 
 upwards of 150 ft. higli. There is a 
 pier in comiexion with them, at 
 which the steamers touch. 
 
 Much chalk is still burnt here, 
 and lime is exported from the works 
 to Holland and Flanders. Flints 
 from the chalk-pits are sent not only 
 to Stafibrdshire, for the use of the 
 potteries, but even to China for 
 similar pm-poses. Chalk fossils, 
 chiefly cchinites and glosso-petraj 
 (sharks' teeth), abound. There is 
 a large yard for shipbuilding at 
 Northfleet, and a dock, excavated in 
 the solid chalk, which will hold 6 or 
 7 large ships. In the ch. are some 
 good brasses : Peter de Lacy, rec- 
 tor, 1375; Will. Lye, 1391; Tho. 
 Brato and Wife, 1511 ; and 2 others 
 of uncertain date. The tower of this 
 ch. is said to have aftbrdcd so con- 
 spicuous a mark to pirates and other 
 " water thieves " sailing up the river, 
 that it was thought necessary to 
 make it a fortress, like many of the 
 church towers on the English bor- 
 ders. It has been partly rebuilt ; 
 but the steps which lead from the 
 churchyard to the first floor are 
 probably connected with its early 
 defences. A similar stair running 
 under the N. wall of the tower oc- 
 curs at liochester. 
 
 On an eminence near Stone Bridge, 
 
 and seen from the river, is Huggins 
 College, recently founded by John 
 Huggins, Esq., of Sittingbourue, and 
 consisting of 40 residences for 
 decayed tradesmen. A chapel with 
 a lofty spire is attached. In the 
 parish churchyard a mausoleum has 
 been erected by the formder. It is 
 pyramidal, with views of Huggins 
 College ou 2 of the sides. 
 
 Almost forming one town with 
 Northfleet is 
 
 261 m. Gravesend (Pop. 1G,000, 
 including the par. of Milton), always 
 a place of considerable importance, 
 since it occupies the first rising 
 ground after entering the river, the 
 passage up which it to some extent 
 commands. Only a hijthe, or landing- 
 place, is mentioned here in Domes- 
 day, but the town grew up about 
 it soon after the Conquest. Out- 
 ward-bound ships lay here to com- 
 plete their cargoes, and here the 
 early voyagers assembled their little 
 fleets, as Sebastian Cabot in 1553, and 
 Martin Frobisher in 157C ; the queen, 
 " as tluir pinnaces passed Green- 
 wich, having bade them farewell 
 with shaking her hand at them out 
 of the window." The town was 
 incoqjorated by Elizabeth, and re- 
 ceived for arms (which it still re- 
 tains) a boat steered by a hedge- 
 hog, the latter being the device of 
 Sir Henry Sidnej', steward of the 
 royal honour of Otford, in which 
 Gravesend is situated. The right of 
 conveying passengers to and from 
 London was from a very early period 
 attached to the manor, and was con- 
 firmed by Pichard II. after the town 
 had been burnt by the French in 
 1377. All eminent strangers arriving 
 by water were received here by the 
 Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and City 
 Companies, and conducted up the 
 river in state ; processions wliich, 
 "in days when the silver Thames 
 deserved its name, and the sun could 
 shine down upon it out of the blue 
 sunmier sky, were spectacles scarcely 
 rivalled in gorgeousness by the world-
 
 16 
 
 Route 1 , — Gravesend. — Milton. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 famous weddings of the Adriatic.'" — 
 Froude. 
 
 Gravesend atpresent contains little 
 to interest the toiuist. The town 
 consists of an older portion, chiefly 
 uaiTOW and dirty lanes near the river, 
 and a new quarter, S. of the London 
 road, and W. of tlie old town, com- 
 posed of streets and squares due to 
 the facilities of transiwrt between 
 this place and London, afforded by 
 the railway and the numerous 
 steamers. With these advantages, 
 and the further recommendations of 
 salubrious air and cheap living, 
 Gravesend has become a sort of 
 watering-place for the London citi- 
 zens, and on Sundays in summer the 
 place is literally overrun with swarms 
 of Londoners who come down in the 
 morning and return in the evening. 
 Besides the usual rows of cardboard 
 lodging-houses, and villas in all the 
 exuberance of the Florid Cockney 
 style, the imjjrovemeuts made here 
 within the last few years consist of 
 two Fiers tlu'own out into the river 
 to facilitate the landing of passengers, 
 the first erection of which was 
 violently opposed by the watermen 
 of the i)lace, who had previously 
 gained a livelihood by transporting 
 passengers from vessels to the shore 
 in boats. One of the piers was de- 
 stroyed by them at night, but the 
 damage was quickly repaired, and 
 the watermen punished. The other 
 new buildings are a Market, Theatre, 
 Liljrary, Assembly Kooms, and 
 
 The Baths, an extensive range of 
 buildings by the river-side, a little to 
 the W. of the town, containing hot, 
 cold, and vapour baths. Bathing 
 macliines are jjrovided on the shore. 
 The saltuess of the water here is the 
 leading article of a Gravesender's 
 creed, and indeed, if not as salt as the 
 sea, it is considered sufficiently so 
 for all bathing jmrposes. Adjoining 
 the baths is a garden laid out with 
 agreeable walks, and furnished with 
 seats. 
 
 The parish church of Gravesend 
 
 has been twice bm-nt ; and the exist- 
 ing building dates from 1731, when 
 it was dedicated to St. Geoi^-e, " in 
 compliment to the King's name," 
 says Hasted. A new ch. has been 
 lately built near the railway station. 
 
 In 1793 Mr. Ealph Dod attempted 
 for the first time to carry a " drift- 
 way" for foot-passengers beneath 
 the Thames at this point. He had 
 proceeded but a short way however 
 before the water burst in, and put an 
 end to the imdertaking. Vessels en- 
 tering or quitting the Thames here 
 take on board pilots. 
 
 The town of Gravesend stretches 
 \i\) the hill-side, from the top of 
 which there are good views over the 
 Thames. The best point is Wind- 
 mill Hill. 
 
 There is a ferry-boat across the 
 river to Tilbury Fort, 1 m. Trains 
 run every half-liour to Eochester and 
 Chatham, 8 m. (See Rte. 2.) 
 
 Closely adjoining Gravesend, E., is 
 Milton, where is a late Dee. church. 
 The sedilia arc of good design, and 
 the cor])els of the original roof are 
 worth notice. Some remains of a 
 chantr}-, founded by Aymer de Va- 
 lence, abovit 1322, adjoin the Parson- 
 age House. The site is now appropri- 
 ated to the service of the Board of 
 Ordnance. 
 
 At Gravesend is the entrance of 
 the Thames and Medway Canal, 
 which originally opened into the lat- 
 ter river opposite Chatham. It was 
 completed in 1824, but was unsuc- 
 cessful, and was at length pm'chased 
 by the N. Kent Railway Company, 
 by whom some portion of its coiuse 
 was adopted for the line between 
 Gravesend and liochester. A part 
 still remains open, and is occa- 
 sionally used. 
 
 The historical associations con- 
 nected with Tilhury Fort, on the op- 
 posite bank, are among the most in- 
 teresting of the Thames. Some kind 
 of fortification here is mentioned as 
 early as 1402; but the first block- 
 house at Tilbury was erected by
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 1. — Tllhwi/. 
 
 17 
 
 Henry VIII. in 1539, when the line 
 of forts along the S.E. coasts (in- 
 chiding those at Deal and Walmer), 
 were also completed mider fear of an 
 immediate invasion. At the time of 
 the Armada, Henry VIII. s fort was 
 strengthened hy fortifications, de- 
 signed by an Italian engineer named 
 Genibelli ; and " a miglity army was 
 encamped here, as it was given out 
 that the enemy meant to invade the 
 Thames." {Hakluyt.) The "mighty 
 army" consisted of 10,000 men, and 
 some traces of the camp in which 
 they were assemVjled under the Earl 
 of Leicester still remain near the 
 ch. of West Tilbury, at some little 
 distance from the river. It was here 
 that " Great Gloriana " reviewed her 
 troops in person, riding through the 
 camp, and exciting them by words 
 as well as brave looks. After the 
 appearance of the Dutch fleet in the 
 river, it was determiiied to erect a 
 regular fortification at Tilbury. This 
 has been strengthened from time to 
 time, and it now forms one of the 
 main defences for the entrance of the 
 Thames. It is encompassed by a 
 deep wide fosse, and on its ramparts 
 are several formidable batteries of 
 heavy ordnance, mostly toward the 
 river. The bastions are the largest 
 in England. The garrison have it 
 in their power to lay the whole sur- 
 rounding level under water, thus 
 adding not a little to the strength of 
 their defences. Strangers are ad- 
 mitted to the fortification on appli- 
 cation to the resident governor. 
 
 In a chalk-pit, near tlie village of 
 E. Tilbury, are numerous excavations 
 called " Danes" Holes," which re- 
 semble those at Dartford and else- 
 where iu the neighbourhood of the 
 river, and arc of great interest. A 
 liorizontal passage is said to lead 
 from these caverns to others re- 
 sembling them at Chadwell, near 
 Little Thurrock. The entrance is 
 fi'om above, liy narrow circular pas- 
 sages, which widen below, and com- 
 mmiicate with umucrous apartments, 
 
 all of regular forms. The size and 
 dejith vary. 
 
 Similar excavations, though appa- 
 rently formed with greater regularity, 
 exist iu the chalk and tufa on either 
 bank of the Somme, as high as 
 Peronne iu the diocese of Amiens. 
 They have been traced in more than 
 oO 2iarishes ; and there is every 
 reason to believe that, if not ori- 
 ginally formed, they were enlarged 
 and rendered available, during the 
 "fm-or Normannormn" of the 10th 
 cent. In many cases these " souter- 
 rains " have a communication witli 
 the parish ch. ; a fact to which a 
 portion of the district seems indebted 
 for the title of " Territorium sanctas 
 liberationis " which it bore in the 
 r2th cent. The tradition of the 
 country still asserts that these 
 caverns were used for the retreat 
 and concealment of the inhabitants 
 in time of war, whence their ordi- 
 nary name — "les souterrains des 
 guerres." There is no trace what- 
 ever of their having served as cata- 
 combs, which indeed their arrange- 
 ment seems altogether to contradict. 
 (For an interesting notice of them, 
 and a j^lan of one of the largest, see 
 Mem. de VAcad. deslnscrij}.,t.xxvn.) 
 The Thames was haunted by the 
 galleys of the Northmen not less 
 frequently than the Somme ; and it 
 is very probable that the excavations 
 adjoining, and on the banks of, oiu- 
 own river, may have served a similar 
 pm-pose. The name here given to 
 them, " Danes' Holes," is at least a 
 proof of the lasting impression made 
 by these sea-rovers. It is much to 
 be desired that the pits here, at 
 Dartford (see Kte. 2), Aylesford 
 (Etc. 5), and elsewhere, should be 
 more carefidly examined, and com- 
 pared with those in Picardy. They 
 may bo of British origin, and sepul- 
 chral (see Aylesford), but at a later 
 jjcriod appropriated as hiding-places. 
 
 Tlie width of the Thames at 
 Gravcscnd is more than ^ mile, 
 and the depth at low water about
 
 18 
 
 Route 1 . — Junction of Thames and 3Iedway. Sect. I. 
 
 48 ft. Notwithstanding this, the 
 bank at Higham, 1 m. below Graves- 
 tud, is one of the points wliich have 
 been fixed npon as the scene of tlie 
 fording of the Thames by Auhis 
 Flautius, the lieutenant of Claudius, 
 A.D. 43. There is, however, not the 
 slightest proof that the estuary here 
 was ever more fordable than at pre- 
 sent, and the conjecture may there- 
 fore be dismissed without much 
 hesitation. 
 
 The river widens rapidly below 
 Gravesend, as it forms " The Hope," 
 the last of its many reaches, but the 
 fiat banks on either side have no 
 points of interest. 
 
 The tower of Stanford-le-Hope is 
 seen 1., and more distant the spire of 
 Corringham. 
 
 At Hole or Tliames Haren, 1., sup- 
 plies of lobsters from the Norwegian 
 and Scottish coasts are deposited, 
 for conveyance up the river. At 
 Hope Point, 1., is a small battery for 
 the defence of the river below 
 Tilbury. 
 
 The ancient importance of the 
 tract from Higham to the Isle of 
 Grain is attested by the many small 
 cluu'ches, Norm, and E. E., which 
 are scattered over it. (See Rte. 2.) 
 
 Canvey Island, 1., consists entirely 
 of marshland, about 3500 acres, ami 
 is banked in all round. It is about 
 5 m. long, and is a great sheep 
 pasture. Camden has fixed on Can- 
 vey as the Counnenos of Ptolemy, 
 placed by Baxter at the Isle of Dogs. 
 
 Beyond Canvey Island, 1., is seen 
 the I'erp. Cliurch of Leigh, with its 
 little village ; mainly occupied by 
 persons engaged in the oyster and 
 shrimp fisheries, for which the mouth 
 of the Thames is famous. The shore 
 at Leigh is found to be well adajited 
 for tlie fonnation of oyster "nurse- 
 ries," in which tlie jelly-like spawn, 
 brought from beds at considerable 
 distances, including the " Rocher de 
 Cancale " on the coast of France, is 
 laid to grow and fatten. 
 
 A short distance below Lei"rh is a 
 
 low obelisk called the Crow Stone, 
 marking the eastern limit of the 
 Lord Mayor's jurisdiction as "Con- 
 servator of the river." From this 
 stone there is a good view of the 
 ruins of Hadleigh Castle, called the 
 "Tower of Essex," and built by 
 Hubert de Burgh, temp. Hen. III. 
 (See Handbook for Eastern Counties.} 
 
 The shrubberies and long pier of 
 Southend (40 m.), are next seen, 1. 
 (Inn: Royal Hotel.) The pier, 1^ m. 
 in extent, is the longest in England, 
 and has a railway on it for convey- 
 ance of passengers from the steamers 
 which touch here. The town is very 
 small and quiet — " a mere shrimp of 
 a sea-town ; Erith is a mighty lobster 
 compared to it ;" — but has the 
 advantage of being the sea-bathing- 
 place nearest to London. The view 
 of the entrance of the Thames, alive 
 with vessels, and the open sea beyond, 
 is very fine, and the surrounding 
 country is pleasant. (See Handbook 
 for Eastern Counties.} 
 
 The " marriage of the Thames 
 and Medway " takes place off the 
 Isle of Grain, Sheerness (see Rte. 2), 
 marking the entrance of the latter 
 river. This is the scene of Dib- 
 din's song : — 
 
 "And see where the river inbranches divides, 
 Cut in two, all the same as a fork, 
 IIow proudly the Commerce with Industry 
 rides ! 
 Then the Blarney, — oh, she's bound for 
 Cork. 
 There 's the homeward-bound fleet from the 
 iJowns, only see ! 
 So taut their topgallant-masts bend : 
 There "s the Silkworm, the Beaver, the Ant, 
 and tlie Bee, 
 And all standing on for Gravesend." 
 
 On the Nore Sand (41 m.), at 
 tlie mouth of the Thames, is fixed 
 the famous light-vessel which guides 
 all the shipping of the world in and 
 out of the port of London. Like 
 many other lights on the English 
 coast, it was first placed here by 
 private enterprise ; a Mr. Hamblin, 
 in 1731, having obtained a ])atent 
 for " an improved distinguishable 
 light," proved it on board a vessel
 
 Kext, 
 
 Houte 2. — London to Chatham. 
 
 19 
 
 called the " Experiment," which he 
 moored on this sand. Its benefits 
 were at once obvious, and tlie " Nore 
 Light " was soon afterwards ph^ced 
 under tlie control of the Trinity 
 Board. The breadth of the Thames 
 at the Nore is G m. 
 
 We are now fairly in the German 
 Ocean, the Essex coast trending 
 away northward, but the long line of 
 that of Kent still extending S. and E. 
 The clifls of the Isle of Sheppeij, gra- 
 dually undermining by the waves, 
 are here conspicuous. In sight are 
 the churches of Minster and Warden. 
 The cliifs, like the whole of the 
 island, are masses of London clay, 
 (For Sheppey, see Rte. 3.) 
 
 Beyond the Swale, which sepa- 
 rates Sheppey from the mainland, 
 the long town of Whlistaple is seen, 
 famous for its oyster fisheries aud 
 for its colliers, which from this point 
 supply the greater part of E. Kent 
 (see Etc. 8). Between Whitstaple 
 and the E. extremity of Foulness 
 Island on the Essex coast, the tide- 
 way has a breadth of 18 m. 
 
 The pier of Heme Buy (Rte. 9) 
 now stretches seaward, and the twin 
 spires of Beculver (Kte. 9) appear 
 cresting the clift", which from this 
 point becomes steeper and more 
 picturesque, until the tourist lands 
 at 
 
 72 m. 3Iargate. (See Rte. 9.) 
 
 EOUTE 2. 
 
 LONDON TO CHATHAM. 
 {London Bridge Station.) 
 
 The railway is carried on arches 
 over the low marshy ground towards 
 Deptford, nearly as far as the first 
 statiou — - 
 
 •4 m. New Cross; before reaching 
 whicli the line passes through a 
 sidjurb interspersed with extensive 
 market gardens. Rotherhithe and 
 Deptford lie 1., and the forest of 
 masts crowding the docks and river 
 appear beyond them : rt. in tlie dis- 
 tance the roofs of the Sydenham 
 Palace sparkle in the sun. The 
 ground on either side is, however, 
 perfectly level imtil 
 
 5 m. Lewisham is reached, and the 
 hill of Greenwich rises 1. toward the 
 river. The long straggling town of 
 LeM'isham stretches for a consider- 
 able distance along the high road to 
 Sevenoaks, but contains nothing 
 of interest. Together with Dejitford 
 and Greenwich the manor was 
 granted by Eltruda (circ. 900) to 
 the Abbey of St. Peter at Ghent, 
 which had a cell here. 
 
 The ch. was rebuilt 1771, with 
 a Corinthian portico and other ele- 
 gances. In it is a monument by 
 Flaxman for Mary, daughter of 
 William Lushington, Esq., d. 1797. 
 Tlie inscription is by Hayley. Dr. 
 Stanhope, author of Commentaries 
 ort the Epistles and Gospels, and 
 who, according to the inscription on 
 his monument, " happily united the 
 good Christian, the solid divine, and 
 the fine gentleman," was long vicar
 
 20 
 
 Roide 2. — Ulackheat/i. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 here and is buried in the ch. Brian 
 Puppa, Bp. successively of Chiches- 
 t(^r, Salishiu-y, and, after the restora- 
 tion, of Winchester, was born here 
 1588. 
 
 G m. Blachheuth. (The Green l\Ian, 
 a tavern greatly frequented by Sun- 
 day visitors, stands N. of the heath.) 
 The high ground of Blaekheath, its 
 dry soil and clear air, have rendered 
 it a. favourite retreat from Lon- 
 don ; although it can boast of no 
 recent accessions to the aristocratic 
 villas for which it was once famous. 
 The most remarkable of these are 
 Montague House (now pulled down), 
 renowned as the residence of Queen 
 Caroline, and the scene of the 
 Delicate Investigation ; Bruitstvick 
 House, the " Babiole" referred to by 
 Lord Chesterfield in his letters to 
 his son, and frequently inhaljited by 
 him. It was afterwards assigned to 
 the Duchess of Brunswick. The 
 gallery in this house was built by 
 Lord Chesterfield. Lord Lyttletoiis 
 Villa, the residence of Major-General 
 "Wolfe, and occasionally of his son, 
 the conqueror of Quebec, whose re- 
 mains were brought here from 
 Canada, and interred at Greenwich. 
 These villas are all on the W. side 
 of the heath, adjoining Greenwich 
 Park. On Maze Hill are two houses 
 luiilt by Sir John Vanbrugh, re- 
 joicing in the names of the Bastile, 
 and the ^lineed Pie House. 
 
 Mordeii College, on the S. side of 
 the heath, was founded for decayed 
 merchants about 1695, by Sir John 
 Morden, whose statue, with that of 
 his wife, apjiears over the entrance. 
 Their portraits are in the hall ; and 
 they are buried in the chapel. The 
 building, which is of brick, and 
 forms a quadrangle, is surrounded 
 by grounds of some extent. 11 of 
 the house is a picturesque lime- 
 tree avenue. 1'2 " decayed Turkey 
 merchants" were placed here by the 
 founder ; but the nundjer has been 
 greatly increased by the aid of later 
 benefactors; and the college now 
 
 contains more than 70 pensioners ; a 
 preference being given to those who 
 have traded witli the Levant. 
 
 The Watling Street crossed Black- 
 heath nearly in the direction of the 
 present London road, and many 
 barrows, ai>parently of the Brito- 
 Eoman period, have been opened 
 at dilferent times along its course. 
 Near one of these, which still exists 
 toward the centre of the heath, 
 Wat Tyler encamped in 1381 at the 
 head of 100,000 followers ; and on 
 the l)arrow itself Jack Cade's banner 
 is said to have been raised in 1450, 
 when the unhappy clerk of Chatham, 
 "taken setting of boys' copies," was 
 condeuaied to be hung in conse- 
 quence, " with his pen and inkhorn 
 about his neck." (HenryVI., Partll., 
 act ir.) In 1497 Lord Audley and the 
 troops he had brought witli him from 
 Cornwall pitched their tents here, 
 and were here defeated by Henry 
 VII. The site of Michael Joseph's 
 tent (one of their leaders) was shown 
 when Lambarde wrote. It was com- 
 monly called the " Smith's Forge," 
 Josepli having been a blacksmith by 
 trade. The situation of Blaekheatli, 
 however, as the nearest open space 
 above London on the Great Eastern 
 road, has caused it to be distin- 
 guished in more peaceful annals, as 
 well as in those of rebellion. Illus- 
 trious visitors, who preferred the 
 Watling Street to the river as their 
 highway to London, were met here 
 and conducted in state to the city. 
 Henry IV., in 1400, met here Manuel 
 Emperor of Constantinople, who 
 came to beg for aid against the Sul- 
 tan Bajazet ; and sixteen years later 
 the Emperor Sigisnnmd was received 
 here, and conducted in state to Lam- 
 beth. The mayor and 400 citizens, all 
 in scarlet, with red and white hoods, 
 here welcomed Henry V. on his 
 return from Agincom't. Cardinal 
 Canipeius was nut here by the Duke 
 of Norfolk in 1519, when lie arrived 
 in England as papal legate ; and here 
 Hem-y ^'^II. encountered Anno of
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2. — Charlton. 
 
 21 
 
 Cleves (having already inspected 
 her privately at Eochester, to his 
 Majesty's extreme dissatisfaction), 
 and conducted lier to the jjalace at 
 Greenwich. One famous scene on 
 the heath lias been painted by a 
 master-hand, and will at once be re- 
 membered. It was here that Charles 
 II. on his way from Dover met and 
 passed through the ranks of the army 
 of the Restoration ; and here Sir 
 Henry Lee of Woodstock, with Bevis 
 at his side, welcomed the King " to 
 his own again," and then closed his 
 eyes to open them no more. Few 
 localities can boast, like Blackheath, 
 of having been immortalised both by 
 Shakspeare and Sir Walter Scott. 
 
 These historical recollections 
 make up the only interest of Black- 
 heath, which has otherwise nothing 
 to attract the visitor. The views 
 from the higher parts of the heath 
 are altogether eclipsed by those 
 from Greenwich Park, whicli adjoins 
 it N., beyond the London road. In 
 the side of the hill here, above the 
 park, and near Trinity Church, is a 
 cavern about 150 ft. in length, called 
 "The Point.' It consists of 4 irre- 
 gular chambers, cut iu a stratmn of 
 chalk and flint, and connected by 
 narrow galleries. In the farthest 
 chamber is a well of pine water. 
 The age of this cavern is altogether 
 unknown; but it is probably of the 
 same character as those at Dartford. 
 See post ; and ante, Ete. 1 (E. Til- 
 buiy.) A well is found in many of 
 the Picardy caverns there noticed. 
 
 Blackheath is famous for the 
 number of its schools, and boasts of 
 a grammar-school established by 
 Abraham Colfe, vicar of Lewisham, 
 in 1652 — the master of which is 
 liable to bo displaced "if he give 
 scandal or bad example to the 
 scholars or otliers .... if he follow 
 vain gaudy fasliions of apparel .... 
 or if he wear long, curled, or ruffin- 
 liko hair." Attaclied to this school 
 is a library given l\y its founder ; but 
 not a little neulect.-.d. 
 
 About 1 m. S. of Blackheath is the 
 picturesque village of Lee, the neigh- 
 bourhood of wliich abounds witli 
 modern villas and cottages of gen- 
 tility "with double coach-houses." 
 The old ch., dedicated to St. Mar- 
 garet, has fallen into ruin. In the 
 churchyard is the tomb of Edmund 
 Halley, the second Astronomer Royal 
 at Greenwich, d. 1741. William 
 Parsons the comedian is buried 
 here. A ncAV ch. has lately been 
 built at no great distance. There is 
 much pleasing country in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Lee. 
 
 The ancient palace of Eltliam, o 
 m., may be visited from Blackheath. 
 (See Rte. 6.) 
 
 The scenery becomes rather more 
 attractive as the line reaches 
 
 8 m. Charlton, lying among the 
 low hills between Woolwich and 
 Blackheath, and f^xmous for its fair 
 still kept up, and known as " Horii 
 Fair," " by reason, ' says Philipott, 
 " of all sorts of winding horns smd 
 cups, and other vessels of horn, 
 there brought to be sold." For the 
 story connected with it see Rte. 1. 
 (Cuckolds Point). The ch. was re- 
 l;)uilt 1G40. In the N. chancel is the 
 monmnent of Sir A. Newton and his 
 wife, by Nich. Stone, tlie sculptoi-. 
 It is very plain, but cost 1807. Charl- 
 foil House (Sir T. M. Wilson), an ex- 
 cellent specimen of the James I. 
 manor-house, was built by Sir Adam 
 Newton, circ. 1612. In the N. gallery 
 is a good portrait of Henry Prince of 
 Wales, to whom Sir Adam was tutoi-, 
 and after whose death he spent the 
 greater part of his life in retirement 
 here, where he translated and pul)- 
 lished in 1620 Father Sarpi's ' His- 
 tory of the Council of Trent.' One 
 of the lower rooms contains a l)lack 
 marble chimney-piece, in thepolislieil 
 face of which tradition asserts that 
 Lord Downe saw tlie reflection of a 
 robbery on Blackheath, and immedi- 
 ately sent out his servants, by wlioni 
 the thieves were secured. Ijonl 
 Downe died here in 1679. In the
 
 99 
 
 Route 2. — Woolwich — Arsenal. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 grounds of Charlton House are some 
 of the oldest c}'presses m England. 
 
 A farmhouse in tliis parish, called 
 " Cherry Garden Farm," is said to 
 have been huilt by Inigo Jones for 
 his own residence. 
 
 Tlie walk from Cliarlton to Wool- 
 wicli, through the "Hanging Wood' 
 adjoining Charlton House, is a plea- 
 sant one. The sandpits here are 
 ■well worth visiting bj' the geologist ; 
 they display an interesting succes- 
 sion of strata ; and fossils character- 
 istic of the Loiidon clay, and of the 
 chalk, which here closely touclies 
 it, are found, and may be collected 
 in and near them. 
 
 1 m. beyond Charlton the lino 
 reaches 
 
 9 m. Woohcich (the Dockyard Sta- 
 tion—there is a second at the furtlier 
 end of the town, adjoining the 
 Arsenal). 
 
 Poj>. 30,000 exclusive of the garri- 
 son. Inns very indifierent. The 
 best are the Mitre, and the Crown 
 and Anchor. 
 
 The town of Woolwich, on the N. 
 W. of which is the Eoyal Dockyard, 
 and on the N.E., the Arsenal, occu- 
 pies a space nearly 2 m. in lengtli 
 on the S. bank of the Thames : and 
 it extends i m. upwards from the 
 river as far as the brow of the hill 
 where are tlie Eoy.al Artillery bar- 
 racks and hospital ; to the S. of 
 which is a spacious level plateau, 
 used for exercising troojjs and called 
 Woolwich Common ; where stand 
 some fine trees which increase the 
 eft'ect of the military spectacles often 
 taking place there. 
 
 The formation of the Dockyard 
 (see Ete. 1 ) cannot be referred to an 
 earlier period than the accession of 
 Henry VIII. It long continued 
 of very small extent ; and has only 
 been increased to its iiresent size 
 within comparatively recent years. 
 The latest additions to the Dock- 
 yard here are the granite docks, 
 capable of receiving the largest 
 ships in the navy ; and the foimdry 
 
 and boiler departments, where all 
 engines are made, necessary for the 
 due fitting of steam-ships. 
 
 The Arsenal, which is the only 
 one in the empire (the smaller es- 
 tablislnncnts elsewhere are called 
 Gunwharfs, as at Devonport and 
 Chatham), was established in 1716, 
 up to which time the principal 
 foimdry for brass ordnance in the 
 neiglibourhood of London was at 
 INIoorfields. In that year, during 
 the casting of a cannon, the mould 
 l)urst, and many persons were killed 
 and injured. The accident was 
 caused by the dampness of the 
 movdds, in -which some of the 
 French guns taken by Marlborough 
 were being recast. Andrew Schalch, 
 of Schaffliausen, a young foreigner 
 accidentally present, had observed 
 this dampness, and, foreseeing the 
 result, had warned Colonel Arm- 
 strong, the Surveyor-General of 
 Ordnance. A few days after the 
 accident an advertisement ai:)peared 
 requesting " the young foreigner" to 
 call on Colonel Armstrong, " as the 
 interview might be for his advan- 
 tage." He did so, and was requested 
 to choose a spot within 12 m. of 
 London to wliich the establishment 
 might be removed. He selected the 
 Warren at Woolwich, on account 
 of the abundance of loam, suitable 
 for }noulds, in the neighboiu-hood 
 (these loam-beds are lower members 
 of the London-clay formation, just 
 above the local chalk) ; and a new 
 foundry was at once erected here, 
 the buildings being designed by 
 Vanbrugh. Schalch's first speci- 
 mens of ordnance were highly ap- 
 proved. He was appointed master 
 foimder, an office wliich lie held for 
 60 years, and lies buried in Woolwich 
 churchyard. 
 
 It is probable that the reasons 
 for selecting tliis site for tlie Arsenal 
 were, that it was close to the seat of 
 government, not exposed to attack, 
 and yet convenient for shipping 
 cannon and stores.
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2. — WooIlcIcIi — BarracTis. 
 
 This establishment contains not 
 only the large stores of all descrip- 
 tions, the cannon, shot, and shells, 
 &c., which are required for the 
 supply of oiir armies, and the arma- 
 ment of our fortresses and ships, but 
 also workshops for mamifacturing 
 them, and for constructing artillery 
 and carriages, as well as for pre- 
 paring ammruiition for artillery and 
 small arms. These are divided into 
 3 departments : the Gun Factories, 
 Carriage Department, and Lahora- 
 torrj : and large sums have lately 
 been expended in the construction 
 of new buildings and machinery, for 
 the piu'pose of rendermg every 
 branch capable of executing the 
 work required of it as rapidly as 
 possible. 
 
 In the Gun Factory the operations 
 of constructing the moulds, casting, 
 boring, turning, and proving guns, 
 are the most interesting. The 
 foundry here, a tall building of red 
 brick, is one of Vanbrugh's erections. 
 The various macliines in the Car- 
 riage Department, for sawing, planing, 
 turning, dovetaiUng, &c., and for 
 putting together the wheels by hy- 
 draulic power, are extremely inge- 
 nious : and the large building in the 
 Laboratory, tilled with new ma- 
 chinery for preparing the shells to 
 receive the fuzes, furming bullets by 
 compression, and constructing per- 
 cussion caps, &c., is an extraordinary 
 sight when all the wheels are in 
 motion. In this department also, 
 shells, fuzes, seamless cartridges and 
 fireworks are constructed : and in a 
 I^art of the Arsenal at the E. end, 
 separate from all the other shops 
 for greater security, the manufacture 
 of rockets is carried on, with great 
 precautions against explosion, the 
 occurrence of which has sometimes 
 caused considerable loss of life. 
 Admission to the Arsenal has re- 
 cently been much restricted : and 
 the intending visitor will do well 
 to make inquiries as to the best 
 means of obtaining it, at the War 
 
 Office in London, before proceeding 
 to Woolwich. 
 
 In the marshes to the E. of the 
 Arsenal is an extensive piece of 
 groiuid called the Practice liange, 
 intended for experiment and practice 
 with artillery from batteries con- 
 structed for the juui^ose. The ex- 
 periments are carried on princiiially 
 with the object of testing inventions 
 and improving artillery, mider the 
 direction of a select committee con- 
 sisting of officers of the Navy, Artil- 
 lery, and Engineers, the iirofessors 
 of mathematics and fortification at 
 the Eoyal Military Academy, and 
 the scientific civil officers of the 
 Arsenal. 
 
 Between the Arsenal and the bar- 
 racks is the grand depot of field ar- 
 tillery, in which the guns are kept 
 mounted and ready for immediate 
 use. 
 
 The Artillery Barracls consist 
 principally of an extensive range of 
 buildings facing the Common (in 
 front of which is an enormous brass 
 grm, taken at Bhurtpore), and two 
 large squares to the N. surrounded 
 by stables, with quarters for the men 
 over them. From the parade in 
 front of these barracks, nearly 1 m. 
 in length, there is a very striking 
 view over the Charlton wood and 
 the Thames toward London on one 
 side, and toward Shooter's Hill on the 
 other. 
 
 At the W. end of the barracks is 
 a battery from which shells are fired 
 at a flag-staft' erected on the upper 
 part of the Common : and beyond 
 this is the Boyal Military Repository, 
 enclosed by a line of field-works, 
 where the instruction in serving and 
 moving heavy gmis is carried on. 
 The grounds are well wooded and 
 veiy pretty: and contain sheets of 
 water which are made to serve for 
 practice in pontooning, and in the 
 water carriage of large guns. On 
 tlie highest point is the Botunda, 
 originally the tent which did duty as 
 a supper-room at a fete given at
 
 24: 
 
 Boute 2. — Shooter s Hill. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Carlton House b}' the Prince Ilegent 
 to the allied sovereigns. Here are 
 arranged models of the principal 
 dockyards, and of some important 
 fortihcations. A small collection of 
 arms and armour is also displayed 
 here, part of which was formerly in 
 tlie Cliateau of St. Germain. Among 
 it is a suit of armour with pass-guards, 
 said to have belonged to the good 
 Knight Bayard. " It is certainly of 
 his time. If it be really that which 
 he wore, he does not appear Ijy any 
 means to have been a tall man." 
 — Meyrich. Remark also an en- 
 graved vam-plate, 2 others curiously 
 constructed with cylindrical tilts for 
 the lances, a shield engraved with 
 the arms of Bavaria, several varieties 
 of guns, partizans, pikes, halberts 
 and swords, a finely engraved salade, 
 temp. Hen. VII., and, near the door, 
 some very interesting early guns, 
 found buried in the sand in the Isle 
 of AValney on the coast of Lancashire, 
 at a place only accessible at low 
 water. The largest is formed of 
 thick plates of iron, hooped : the 
 others of wrought iron. They are 
 tliought to have been on board one 
 of the ships -which accompanied 
 Richard II. to Ireland, when his 
 fleet was scattered by a tempest and 
 25 vessels wrecked. 
 
 Other objects of interest here are 
 — the funeral car of Napoleon ; the 
 oven in which his bread was baked 
 when in the fiield ; and a cinder, 
 the residue of 56 millions of bank 
 notes, burnt wheir the 1 1, notes were 
 called in. Both the Repository 
 Ground and the Rotunda are at all 
 times open to the public. 
 
 On the Common, S.E. of the Repo- 
 sitory Ground, is tlie Boijnl Military 
 Acaderay, for tlie education of cadets 
 destined for the Artillery and Engi- 
 neers. The average number liere is 
 about 200. The a'eademy was built 
 in 1805, from the designs of Wyatt. 
 The eminent mathematicians, Simp- 
 son, Hutton, and Gregory, have at 
 diiferent times presided here. 
 
 Not verj' far from the dockyard, 
 and on the border of the parish of 
 Charlton, is the Compass Observa- 
 tory ; a small building, but one of 
 great importance. The standard 
 compasses for the use of the na\7^ 
 are carefulh' tested here before being 
 supplied to each ship. Not a par- 
 ticle of any metal but copper is used 
 in theconstruction of the Observatory 
 itself. 
 
 A division of Royal Marines was 
 established here in 1805, and occu]iy 
 a handsome new barrack. 
 
 Tlie interest of Woolwich is en- 
 tirely confined to these great estab- 
 lisliments. The churches contain 
 nothing to detain the tourist. The 
 parish church, dedicated to St. Mary 
 INIagdaleue, was rebuilt about 17-1(). 
 Two modern churches, St. John's 
 and St. Thomas's, were built in 184:0 
 and 1850. The first is E. E. in de- 
 sign, and tolerably good. 
 
 Richard Lovelace the poet was 
 born at "Woolwich in 1618, at the 
 house of his father. Sir "William 
 Lovelace, tlie site of which is un- 
 known. 
 
 At the back of 'W'oolwich rises 
 Shooter's Hill, so named, like Gad's 
 Hill near Rochester, from the bands 
 of outlaws who anciently lay hid in 
 the woods bordering the great road, 
 which crossed the hill. The name 
 of the hamlet of Welling, or Well 
 End, beyond the hill, is said to ex- 
 press the feelings of travellers who 
 had safely passed these dangers. 
 From the summit the view is ver}' 
 fine on all sides ; finest, perhaps, 
 toward London : — 
 
 " A miglity mass of brick, and smoke, and 
 shipping, 
 Dirty and dusk}', but as wide iis eye 
 Could roach, with here and there a sail just 
 skipping 
 In siglit, tlien lost amid the forestry 
 Of masts; a wilderness of steeples peeping 
 
 On tiptoe through their seacoal canopj'; 
 A huge, dun cupola, like a foolscap crown 
 On a fool's head— and there is London 
 town ! " Don Juan, canto xi. 
 
 The triangular tower here com-
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2. — Ahhey Wood. 
 
 memorates the taking of Severn- 
 droog Castle on the coast of Mala- 
 bar, in 1755, by Sir William James, 
 and was erected by his widow. The 
 sixmmit of this tower is 482 ft. above 
 the sea-level. 
 
 Eltham, with its ancient palace, 
 lies 1^ m. beyond Shooter's Hill, S. 
 It is best visited, however, either 
 from Blackheath or from Lewisham. 
 (See Etc. ii.) 
 
 Leaving Woolwich the rail passes 
 across the Plumstead and Erith 
 marshes (in the first of which a 
 powder magazine is seen, 1.) to re- 
 gain the river at Erith. About I5 
 m. rt. is Plumstead Church, which 
 has some E. E. portions, but has 
 been much altered and added to. 
 
 The churchyard exhibits a choice 
 " derangement of epitaphs," one of 
 wliicli contains a remarkable warn- 
 ing against the abuse of Kentish 
 • cherry-gardens : — 
 
 " Weep not for me, ray parents dear. 
 There is no w itiiess wanted here ; — 
 The hammer of Death was given to me 
 For eating the cherries off the tree." 
 
 " The N. side of the churchyard 
 overlooks a farmyard, the Pliuustead 
 Marshes in the distance, with two 
 line trees overhanging a poml, and 
 fences in the foreground : the whole 
 is a subject for the pencil." — F. 
 Summerley. 
 
 There are some good views from 
 the hill above Plumstead : and the 
 walk from here to P>ith is a pleasant 
 one. It was a favourite walk of 
 Robert Bloomiield the poet, during 
 his occasional residences at Shooter's 
 Hill, and is thus commemorated by 
 him : — 
 
 " O'er eastward u[)iands, gay or rude, 
 Along to Erith's ivied spire, 
 I start, witli strength .nid hope renew'd, 
 
 And clierisli life's relvirulHnff fin?. 
 Now measure vales with straining eyes, 
 Now trace the churchyard's humble 
 mmies, 
 Or climb Iirown heaths abrupt that rise, 
 And overlook the winding Tlianies." 
 
 The station of 
 
 12 m. Abl)ey Wood is so named 
 from tlie Abbey of Lesnes, of which 
 \_Kenf & Sussex.'} 
 
 the ritins lie a short distance 1. The 
 district of Lesnes (pronounced Less- 
 ness, in Domesday written Loisnes ; 
 the etymology of the word seems 
 quite uncertain) stretches across 
 Lesnes Heath to Erith, and gives 
 name to tlie hundred ; Eritlt, the 
 parish in which it stands, being the 
 ancient landing-place (xrre-fiythe, 
 the old haven) from the river. Tlie 
 Abbey, a house of Augustiniau 
 canons, was founded in 1178 by 
 Eichard de Lucy, Chief Justice of 
 England ("Eicaidns Lux Luciorum," 
 as his monmnent here was inscribed : 
 and who afterwards himself joined 
 the order here), and dedicated to 
 St. Mary and tlie new martyr, Abp. 
 Becket, by whom de laicy had been 
 excommTUiicated with otliers of the 
 King's party. Subsequent Itenefac- 
 tors did much for the abbey, 
 which, however, was never very 
 wealthy, and was suppressed in 
 1524, together with 3 other small 
 monasteries, Woli^ey having 0I1- 
 taineda bull from Clement VII. for 
 this purpose, and for the applicti- 
 tion of the revenues toward the 
 endowment of his new college at 
 Oxford. After Wolsey's fall, Les- 
 nes A])bey and its manors passed 
 through various hands, until toward 
 the end of the 17th cent, they were 
 settled by their then owner, partly 
 on the Hospital of St. Bartholo- 
 mew in London, and partly on 
 Christ's Hospital, which still possess 
 them. 
 
 Theexistingruins, the areaof which 
 is occupied as a market-garden, con- 
 sist mtuidy of the N. wall of the re- 
 fectory, and are part of the original 
 foundation. The ch. seems to have 
 extended beyond, and the position 
 of the cloister court adjoining is 
 still traceable. The present house, 
 called the Abbey Farm, is built on 
 part of the old foundation, and is the 
 recent successor of one far more 
 ancient and ))icturesqne. The con- 
 vent-gfirden still rtmains enclosed 
 within its ancient boundary wall. 
 
 c
 
 26 
 
 Route 2. — Cray ford. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 [An omnibus leaves the Abbey 
 Wood station several times daily for 
 Bexley Heath, Sj m., an assemblage 
 of villas lately erected. Adjoin- 
 ing tlie Heath is Danson Hill (Hugh 
 Johnston, Esq.), the grounds of which 
 were laid out by Capability Brown. 
 The Church of East Wickham, 2 m., 
 contains 2 good brasses — John Bla- 
 dicdone and wife, 1325 (lialf-lengths, 
 in head of floriated cross), and Will. 
 Payn, in tlie dress of a yeoman of 
 the guard, 3 wives and 3 sons, loUS.J 
 
 From Abbey Wood the line passes 
 imder the woods of the Belvidere to 
 
 14 m. Erith.—See Rte. 1 for this 
 jdace and for the Belvidere (Sir 
 Culling Eardley), which may be 
 visited from here. The liouse con- 
 tains an important collection of 
 pictures. 
 
 [^Crayford, IJ m. rt., on the little 
 river Cray, which gives its name to 
 a chain of picturesque villages on 
 its banks, is the Creccan-ford of the 
 Saxon Chronicle, at which place the 
 second of the battles between 
 Hengist and the Britons is said to 
 have been fought ; after which " tlie 
 Britons forsook Kent-land, ' that is, 
 the open country or Caint (Celt.) 
 lying along tlie river (Guest). On 
 Bexley Heath, S. of Crayford, the 
 coiu'se of the Watling Street, which 
 may have influenced the battle (sup- 
 posing it to be other than legendary), 
 is strongly marked. Here and on 
 many of the neighbovu'ing heaths 
 are numerous excavations in the 
 chalk, of great depth, with narrow 
 mouths, but widening into ample 
 vaults below. They resemljle those 
 at E. Tilbuiy (see Kte. 1, where is a 
 notice of similar caves in Picardy). 
 A tradition resembling that on tlie 
 l)anks of the Somme is connected 
 with tliese caves, which are said to 
 Jiave been constructed by the Britons 
 ibr retreat in time of war. Similar 
 pits in the neighbourhood of Aylcs- 
 ford are found filled witli flints from 
 the chalk, and are proliably sepul- 
 chral. (SeelUe. 5.) Crayford Church 
 
 is dedicated to St. Paulinus, the fellow 
 missionary of Augustine, and 3rd Bp. 
 of Rochester. The altai-picce was 
 the gift of Sir Cloudesley Shovel, 
 who owned considerable property in 
 this parish, and wliose widow died 
 here at May Place. She has a 
 monument in the ch. On the river, 
 near tlie village, are some large es- 
 tablishments for silk and calico 
 printing ; and some large sawmills, at 
 which the flooring for Buckingham 
 Palace was cut. A mill of more ro- 
 mantic associations, for the manufac- 
 ture of plates for armour, formerly 
 existed on the Cray. {Harris.) 
 
 The stream of the Cray may be 
 traced upwards witli interest to its 
 source in the parish of Orpington, 
 about 8 m. from Crayford. It runs 
 through a valley of much quiet 
 beauty ; and its trout are said to be 
 tlie best in this part of Kent. The 
 churches on its banks will repay 
 examination. That of Bexley, 1 m., 
 was very early attaclied to the 
 " Priory of the Holy Trinity of Lon- 
 don," and contains some of the ori- 
 ginal stall-work in the chancel. The 
 greater part of the walls is E. E., 
 as is the tower. Tlie windows are 
 Dec, and Perp. insertions. Brass, 
 Thomas Sparrow, 1513. There is 
 a mural monument for Sir John 
 Champneys and wife, 1556. ThelSIa- 
 nor of Bexley was sold by Sir John 
 Spielman, the Dartfoid paper-manu- 
 facturer, to Camden, the " reverend 
 head " to whom English history and 
 archeology are so greatly indebted. 
 With its rental Camden founded a 
 Professorship of History at Oxford, 
 to wliich the manor is still attached. 
 
 Adjoining North Cray, 2i m., is 
 Vale'Mnscall (Rev. John Egerton). 
 The stream here is very picturesque. 
 A short distance E. lies Buxley Farm, 
 where still exists a desecrated ch., 
 the parish originally attached to 
 which is now united to North Cray. 
 The ch. is converted into a barn, and 
 is late Dec. The sedilia remain 
 within. Bokeslie or Ruxley still gives
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 2. — Dartford, 
 
 27 
 
 name to the hundred. The Chin-ch 
 of Foot's Cray, 3 m., is apparently 
 rude early Dec. The chancel is 
 Tr. Norm. In it are the effigies 
 of Sir Simon de Vanghan and wife, 
 lord of the manor teniiJ. Edw. III. 
 The parish derives its name from 
 the sobriquet of its recorded Saxon 
 proprietor, Godwin Fot, or Foot. 
 There are here several paper-mills 
 on the river. Between Foots Cray 
 and Sidcup (about 1 m. N.W.) is a 
 building called Ursula Lodge, a re- 
 treat for 6 maiden ladies, recently 
 founded by H. Berens, Esq. The 
 Church of St. Paul's Cray, 5 m., is, 
 like that of Crayford, dedicated to 
 St. Paulinus. "It is entirely E.E., 
 with the tootli-moulding over the 
 W. door ; though a curious two- 
 light window, much mjiu-ed by 
 weather, but of Norm, character, 
 and two round holes in the tower, 
 seem to have belonged to an earlier 
 edifice." — Hussey. St. Mary Cray 
 has a large Perp. Church. Brasses : 
 Isabel Cossale, in a shroud, of un- 
 certain date. Richard Avery and 3 
 wives, 1558. Elizabeth Cobham 
 and her first husband John Hart, 
 1543. Orpington, 8 m., the last ch. 
 on the Craj% has Norm, portions, 
 but is mainly E. E., and contains 
 some carved woodwork. The springs 
 of the Cray here are numerous, and 
 often rise so high as to flood the 
 village.] 
 
 Beyond Erith the line of rail bends 
 inland from the river, and 
 
 17 m. reaches Dartford {Inn, The 
 Bull, High Street), a town of some 
 importance, Ijnng between 2 steep 
 hills at the place where the Roman 
 road crossed the river Darent (Dwr, 
 Celt, water ; so the Devonshire Dart 
 and the Iberian Douro), which from 
 this place opens in a broad naviga- 
 ble creek to the Thames. No bridge, 
 however, existed here imtil the end 
 of the reign of Henry YI., tip to 
 which time the river was crossed by 
 a ferry. Dartford is famous for its 
 large paper and powder mills ; and 
 
 the town is still rapidly increasing. 
 There is some pleasant country in 
 the neighbourhood. 
 
 A Priory of Augustiiiian nuns was 
 founded here m 1355 by IMward 
 III., and was much patronized by 
 the noble ladies of Kent, many of 
 whom here retired from the world. 
 After the dissolution the Priory 
 was converted into a residence fur 
 Henry VIII., by whom it was after- 
 wards granted to Anne of Cloves. 
 On reverting to the Crown, it formed 
 a part of the lands exchanged Ity 
 James I. with Sir Robert Cecil for 
 his manor of Theobalds. The Cecils 
 conveyed the Priory to Sir Edward 
 Darcy, who lived here. The re- 
 mains, now called the Place House, 
 lie at the W. end of the town, but 
 are of no great interest. The gate- 
 house, and a building attached to it, 
 now used as a farmhouse, are of 
 brick, and not earlier than Henry 
 VII. The building is said to have 
 been very extensive, as is partly 
 ])roved by the ancient wall of enclo- 
 sure, portions of which still exist. 
 
 A Chatifry of St. Edmund the 
 Martyr, which stood detached, in its 
 own cemetery on the ojiposite side 
 of the town, was granted to the 
 Priory by Edward III., and formed 
 part of its first endowment. The 
 Chantry was visited by pilgrims on 
 their way to Canterbury ; and was 
 in so great repute on its own account 
 that the Watling Street towards 
 London is occasionally referred to as 
 " St. Edmimds AVay." The chantry 
 ruins have completely disappeared. 
 
 Dartford Church has been greatly 
 altered at ditferent times, and has 
 suftered not a little from the at- 
 tacks of beautifying chmchwardens. 
 Within are the remains of a Dec. 
 Screen, and some interesting monu- 
 ments. In the chancel is that of Sir 
 John Spielman (d. 1G07), Queen Illi- 
 zabeth's jeweller, who built here one 
 of the earliest paper-mills in Eng- 
 land. Brasses : Richard Martin and 
 wife, 1402. Agnes Molyngton, 1454. 
 
 c2
 
 28 
 
 Route 2. — The Darent. — Mllniington, 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Wife of Thomas Rothdo, and 4 
 children, 1464. 
 
 The powder and paper mills, both 
 of great extent, arc a little bej'ond 
 the town. The paper-mills were 
 first establislied here in the reign 
 of Elizabeth, by Sir John Spiel- 
 mn.n (a (lernian b}- descent), who 
 l)laiited })ef()re the door the first 2 
 lime-trees ever seen in this Y>avt of 
 England, having- " brought them 
 over sea with him in his portman- 
 teau." These fathers of English 
 limes were cut down toward the end 
 of the last century. They have, 
 however, numerous representatives ; 
 and tlie nun of Dartford, thanks to 
 Sir Jolm, may still refresh tliem- 
 selves "unter den linden." 
 
 The great "illustration" of Dart- 
 ford is Wat Tyler : who in the fifth 
 year of Richard II. commenced his 
 insurrection here by beating out the 
 brains of the poll-tax collector. 
 Whether he or the collector is 
 alluded to in the local rhyme — • 
 
 " Sutton fur mutton, 
 Kirkby for beef, 
 South ])arne for gingerbread, 
 And Dartford for a thief" — 
 
 the reader may determine for him- 
 self. The places thus poetically 
 commemorated all lie on the stream 
 of the Darent, above Dartford. 
 
 The views from Dartford Heath, 
 1 m. S.W. of the town, are fine, em- 
 brticing a wide sweej) of the river. 
 On different parts of the heath are 
 numerous hollows and excavations 
 in the chalk, resembling those at 
 Crayford, the age and even the ex- 
 tent of which is altogether imknown. 
 They descend by deep shafts, and 
 w^iden below into numberless cham- 
 bers and galleries. Similar hollows, 
 though ]ierhaps not so extensive, 
 «xist at Tilbury on the Essex coast, 
 on the Ayle.sford Downs, and else- 
 where in the chalk district ; and it 
 seems most i)rol)able that they were 
 originally excaviited partly as sepul- 
 chral caves and jjartly for the sake 
 of the chalk, which is known to 
 
 have been exported during the Brito- 
 Eoman period ; although they may 
 have been afterwards enlarged and 
 arranged as places of temporary re- 
 treat and security. (See E. Tilbury, 
 Rte. 1, and Crayford, ante.) 
 
 Between Dartford and the Brent, 
 a heath lying E. of the town, the 
 course of the Roman road is still 
 very conspicuous. The chalk downs 
 which here border the Darent, every- 
 where dotted with black tufts of 
 juniper, are famous for the many 
 species of orchis to be found on 
 them. 
 
 [A coach leaves the Dartfonl 
 station daily for Fartu'ngham, 5 m., 
 following the coru'se of the Darent, 
 which flows through a broad valley 
 between hills that increase in height 
 as the chalk district is entered. 
 The scenery is pleasant, the best 
 points being about Horton and 
 Farningham. 
 
 On this rotid the village of Wil- 
 viiiigton, 1 m., stands pleasantly 
 among cherry-gardens, which form 
 the great wealth of the neighbour- 
 hootl. The manor has passed 
 through many illustrious hands, in- 
 cluding those of the "King Maker" 
 Earl of Warwick, and of Margaret 
 Plantagenet, Countess of Salisbury, 
 the ill-fated mother of Sir Regi- 
 nald Pole, the " Wliite Rose" who 
 troubled Henry VIII., and of the 
 better known cardinal. The ch. 
 has been lattdy restored, but con- 
 tains nothing of interest. At Joyden's 
 Wood in this parish, are traces of 
 ancient buildings, probably Roman, 
 which have not been sufficiently ex- 
 amined. 
 
 2^ m., on the 1. bank of the stream, 
 is the remarkable Churcli of Darent, 
 which the archaeologist shoidd not 
 leave unvisited. The chancel, which 
 is Norman, has 2 divisions, the east- 
 ernmost of which is vaulted witli 
 stone, and is divided into 2 parts, 
 having a .small chamber above the 
 vaidting. For a similar instance, 
 compare the Church of Compton,
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2. — Suttoii-at-Hone. — Horton KlrJJ ij. 
 
 29 
 
 near Guildford, ui Surrey. Both 
 parts of the Darent chaucel are 
 Norman, though considerable differ- 
 ence of opinion exists as to their 
 being early or late in the style. The 
 lights opened in the E. wall are 
 narrow lancets. There were origin- 
 ally five, the two njiper and larger 
 ones bemg now closed. Eemark in 
 the three lower lights, and hi other 
 Norman portions of the building, the 
 external ornaments in the window- 
 heads, which are of very unusual 
 character. In the walls are many 
 Roman bricks. The ch., which is 
 dedicated to S. IMargaret, a patroness 
 in great favoin with the Normans, 
 has also E. E. portions, and others 
 of later date. The font is Norman, 
 and is elaborately carved in 8 com- 
 partments, divided by semicircidar 
 arches. 
 
 Darent was given by the Saxon 
 Duke Eadulf, in 940, to Christ 
 Church, Canterbury ; and it con- 
 tinued in possession of that monas- 
 tery until 119.5, when Abp. Hubert 
 exchanged it for Lambeth with the 
 priory of St. Andrew at Rochester, 
 which retained it until the dissolu- 
 tion. The earlier portions of the ch. 
 here are therefore the work of the 
 great Canterbiuy Priory, and should 
 be compai-ed with such Norman re- 
 mains as exist on other manors once 
 belonging to the .same house. 1 m. 
 S.E. of the ch. stood the Chapel of 
 St. Margaret Hilles, a separate pre- 
 cinct until 1.557, when it was united 
 to the parish of Darent, and the 
 chapel speedily fell to ruin. No 
 traces remain. On the hill opposite 
 are many barrows ; and there is an 
 earthwork of some extent in Darent 
 Wood, adjoining. 
 
 \\ m. rt., close to the road, is 
 Sutton - at - Heme (in the valleij. 
 Sax.), tin; praises of whose heath- 
 fed mutton have been sung by local 
 bards. The eh. is principally Deco- 
 rated, though it suffered nmch from 
 a fire in 1G15. On each door of the 
 chancel screen is carved a face, with 
 
 the tongue hanging out of the 
 mouth, and passed through a buckle, 
 the device of an ancient family in 
 the parish named Puckletongue. 
 In the chancel is the monument 
 with recumbent effigy of Sir Thomas 
 Smith, of Sutton Place, " Governor 
 of the p]ast Indian and other Com- 
 panies, Treasurer of tlie Virginian 
 Plantation, and sometime Ambas- 
 sador to the Emperor and Great 
 Duke of Russia and ISIuscovy." Sir 
 Thomas, not the least distinguished 
 of Elizabethan navigators, is said 
 to have died of the plague, which 
 devastated all this district in 1625, 
 the year of his death. His once 
 stately mansion of Sutton Place, 
 originally erected by Sir Maurice 
 Denys, temp. Hen. VIII., after pass- 
 ing through the hands of the Le- 
 tliieuUiers.became toward tlie middle 
 of tlie last century the property of 
 the Mumford family, who still pos- 
 sess it. Much of it has been pulled 
 down at different times, and the rest 
 modernised. 
 
 4 m. 1., on the further bank of the 
 Darent, is 
 
 HovLoii Kirkhij. The cross ch., 
 witli central tower, is interesting, 
 although it has been much patched 
 and altered. The greater part is 
 E. E. Arcades run round the inte- 
 rior of the transepts. The tower 
 arches are of unusual height. Three 
 original trefoil-heade<l windows re- 
 main at the E. end of chancel ; the 
 others are later. In the chancel is 
 a recessed Dec. tomb, possibly for 
 one of the De Ros family, long lords 
 of Horton. There are 2 brasses 
 Cimknown) of the 16tli cent. 
 
 At the time of the Domesday 
 survey Horton was held under Bp. 
 Odo by Anschitill de Ros, wliose 
 descendant, Lora, called " The Lady 
 of Horton," conveyed the manor by 
 marriage to the north-country family 
 of Kirkby, who already possessed 
 lands heie. Hence tlie name Horton 
 Kirlihij, which by no means indicates 
 a Danish settlement. N. of the ch..
 
 30 
 
 Route 2. — Farniiigham. — Eynsfoi-d. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 and overlianging the stream of tlie 
 Darent, are considerable remains of 
 Horton Castle, the stronghold of 
 the De Eos, and afterwards of the 
 Kirkby families. It was re-edified 
 by Roger de Kirkby, temp. Edw. I., 
 but the existing remains are of 
 much later chai'aeter, and have no 
 great interest. 
 
 4^ m. 1., on the 1. bank of the 
 river, is Franks, a fine old house of 
 brick witli stone dressings, built by 
 Launcelot Bathurst, alderman of 
 London, who purchased the estate, 
 temp. Eliz., and died 1594. It is 
 now a farmhouse. Another 5 m. 
 brings us to 
 
 5 m. FarniiKjliam, lying pictu- 
 resquely in the valley between tlie 
 ridges of chalk hills. The ch. is 
 mainly E. E., with a Perp. tower. 
 The chancel is much narrower than 
 the nave, and in the end walls of 
 the latter are 2 small E. E. windows. 
 Brasses : Will. Culbone, vicai", 1451, 
 and 2 smaller ones of the 16th cent. 
 Observe the font, which is Perp., 
 with figures carved on its 8 sides. 
 
 Closely adjoining Farningliam is 
 E[/iisford, where are large paper- 
 mills, rising from tlie midst of 
 orchards and cherry -gardens, whose 
 white blossoms in early spring add 
 not a little to the beauty of the 
 river valley. The ch. is E. E., with 
 u rich Norm. W. door. The chancel 
 terminates in an apse, liglited by .3 
 lancets. The S. transept has 8 
 lancets. The N. has been rebuilt, 
 and is Pei-p. Near the river are the 
 remains — but little more than the 
 walls— of Eyusford Castle, the moat 
 of which is now converted into an 
 orchard. The walls, which enclose 
 nearly an acre, as well as the frag- 
 ments of the keep, are Norm., and 
 are built of flints from the chalk, 
 with which many Eoman bricks are 
 intermixed. 
 
 Eynsford was given to Christ 
 Church, Canterbury, about 950, by a 
 Saxon named MWege. The castle 
 and manor were held under the 
 
 abp. by a family named Eynsford, 
 until the reign of Edward I., when 
 they passed into the hands of the 
 great Kentish house of Criol. They 
 have since had mnnerous jiro- 
 prietors ; but the castle seems to 
 have fallen into decay at an early 
 period. 
 
 The early character of the chm-ches 
 in the valley of the Darent, as well 
 as the Roman bricks constantly 
 found in their walls, mark the an- 
 cient importance and popidation of 
 this district. Two roads of great 
 antiquity open into the valley, — 
 the Watling Street at Dartford, and 
 a second from London to Maidstone, 
 which crosses it here at Farningliam. 
 
 From Farningliam the tourist may 
 proceed, still following the course of 
 the Darent, to Sevenouhs, 8 m. The 
 scenery is good ; and places of in- 
 terest on the road are LuUingstone, 
 Slioreham, and Otford. There is no 
 public conveyance. See for this 
 line, Rte. 6, Excursion from Seven- 
 oaks. 3 
 
 From Dartford the line of rail 
 bends N. toward the river, and, 
 leaving Stone Church (Rte. 1) 1., 
 reaches the next station, 
 
 20 m. Greenhithe (see Rte. 1). 
 
 [1^ m. S. of Greenhithe is Sioans- 
 condie, in Domesday written Suines- 
 camp, and said to derive its name 
 from a winter camp of the Danes, 
 fixed here under their king Sweyn, 
 — the river having at one time 
 formed an inlet as high as this 
 place. Early traditions have at all 
 events become connected with 
 Swanscombe, the most remarkable 
 being that wliicli places here the 
 meeting of the Conqueror with the 
 " men of Kent," led by Abp. Stigand 
 and the abbot of St. Augustine's. 
 Like the host of Malcolm at Dunsi- 
 nane, the Kentish army is said to 
 have moved forward under a cloud 
 of green boughs, which they flung 
 down when within reach of the Nor- 
 man, who, alarmed at their number 
 and firmness, confirmed on the spot
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2 . — Swanscomhe. — Nutsted. 
 
 31 
 
 all their ancient laws and privileges. 
 Hence, says tradition, tlie distinction 
 between the " men of Kent" — who 
 thus secured their old freedom — and 
 the " Kentish men," or Victi, to be 
 found in other parts of the cormty, — 
 the " men of Kent " being more 
 especially the inliabitants of the long 
 valley of tlie Holmsdale, stretching 
 away from Dorking toward Seven- 
 oaks, and renowned in popular 
 legend as 
 
 " The vale of Holmsdale— 
 Never conquered, never sball." 
 
 This curious story first appears in 
 the Chronicles of Sprott and Thorne, 
 monks of St. Augustine's, Canter- 
 bury ; but, although they may have 
 embroidei'ed it for the sake of their 
 abbot, ^-Egilswin, they probably had 
 a grounding of tradition to work 
 upon. The distinction between 
 " Kentish men " and " men of Kent " 
 has been explained by making the 
 first new settlers, and the latter the 
 original tillers and owners of the 
 soil. It is perhaps wortli suggesting 
 that the name " Castellum Canlu- 
 ariorum" given by Bede (H. E., iv. 5) 
 to Rochester, may indicate the ex- 
 istence of such a distinction at an 
 early period. 
 
 In Swanscombe Wood, beyond 
 the ch., is Clapper-napper's Hole, a 
 cavern famous in the local folk lore. 
 Cocklesliell Ban]:, near Green-street 
 Green, will supply the geologist witli 
 some good specimens. 
 
 The Manor House (John Covenej', 
 Esq.) is ancient and worth notice. 
 
 The Church of Swanscombe is of 
 very high interest, and claims 
 (' Gloss, of Archit.") to be the only 
 Saxon example in the county. The 
 portions for which this claim is 
 made are,— some parts of the imUs 
 of the nave and cliancel- in which, 
 however, later windows have been 
 inserted— and the lower part of the 
 tower, in the S. wall of whicli is the 
 mark of a round-headed window, 
 formed of Roman bricks. At the 
 
 angles is some rough long-and-sliort 
 work, resembling the poreli of Bishop- 
 stone Cliurch, Sussex. (Hussey.) Tlie 
 interior of the nave is Tr. Norm., 
 and there are Norm, and E. E. win- 
 dows in the chancel. 
 
 In the chancel is the monument 
 of Sir Anthony Weldon, clerk of the 
 kitchen to Queen Elizabctli and 
 James I., who in his spiteful remi- 
 niscences has supplied us witli one 
 of the best pictures of the Britisli 
 Solomon, and who sat himself to Sir 
 Walter for the character of Sir 
 Mungo Malagrowther. The monu- 
 ment of Lady Weldon is opposite ; 
 and in the S. chancel are other Wel- 
 don memorials, including a stately 
 altar-tomb with recumbent figures 
 for Sir Raljih and Lady Weldon : 
 d. 1609. 
 
 The ch. here was attached to the 
 manor, which soon after the Con- 
 quest was granted to the family of 
 Montcliesnie, who long held it. In 
 it was one of the many shrines 
 which, lying on or not far from their 
 road, pilgrims to Canterbury were 
 accustomed to visit. The slirine 
 here was that of St. Hildefertli, 
 wliose aid was invaluable in all 
 cases of insanity or " melancliolia. 'J 
 
 Very pleasant glimpses of the river 
 open 1. between (Treenhitlie and 
 
 21 m. Northfleet {see Rte. 1). 2 m. 
 furtlier we reach 
 
 24 m. Gravesend (Rte. 1), at which 
 place the rail leaves the river-bank, 
 and bends across the country to- 
 ward the Medway at Stroud, still 
 following pretty closely tlie old line 
 of tlie Watling Street. 
 
 f An omnibus leaves tlie Graves- 
 end station daily for Meopiham (6 m.). 
 On this road, at Nutsted (4 m.), some 
 very slight remains of a most in- 
 teresting 14th century manor-liouse 
 have, witliin the last few years, been 
 worked into a modern building. 
 Much larger portions were destroyed 
 at the same time. There were here 
 a remarkable hall, with timber co- 
 lumns and arches, two small rooms
 
 32 
 
 lioufe 2. — Meopham. — Higliam. — Cliffe. Sect. I. 
 
 adjoining, and a fragment of a strong 
 tower. Wliat remains niay be worth 
 a visit. Tlie liouse was probably 
 erected by a family named Graves- 
 end, two of whom were bishops Df 
 London in the 14th cent. 
 
 Meopluim, G m. (Sax. Meapaham — 
 Meapa s lium orhoiue), lies pleasantly 
 among the chalk hills, parts of 
 which are here thickly wooded. A 
 portion of the village is bnilt romid 
 a broad green, in true old Kentish 
 fashion. The ch., which is large 
 and good, is chielly Dec. It was 
 rebnilt, as a gift to his native place, 
 by Simon de Meopham, that un- 
 happy iirbp. of Canterbury (1327- 
 1333) who fell a victim to the com- 
 bined assaidts of the pope and the 
 Bp. of Exeter (see his tomb in 
 Canterbury Cathedral, Ete. 8). Con- 
 siderable repairs were made to 
 the building by Abp. Courtenay, 
 which are Perp. The brasses which 
 formerly existed here are said to 
 have been melted during the recast- 
 ing of the bells toward the end of 
 the last cent. Meopham was granted 
 by Eadulf to the church of Canter- 
 bury iu'.)40, and after the dissolution 
 was restored by Henry to the newly- 
 founded chapter. 
 
 In this parish is Gamer. (William 
 Masters Smith, Esq.)] 
 
 From the next station, 
 
 29 m. Higliam, the chui'ches of 
 Chalk and Shorne may be visited, 
 ))oth of which are interesting. They 
 will best be taken, however, from 
 llochester ; and the excm-sion may 
 be made to comprise Gadshill, with 
 its memories of Falstafif, and Cob- 
 ham Chinch and Hall. (See post). 
 
 The ch. of IligJuuii was attached 
 to a Benedictine Nunneiy, founded 
 liere by K. Stephen, of whicli his 
 daughter Mary became the first 
 abbess. This nunnery is said to 
 have been first placed at Lillechurch, 
 about 1 m. from Higliam, but it was 
 afterwards removed close to the pre- 
 sent cliureh, and there are still somc^ 
 fragments of its ancient buildings in 
 
 a house here called the Abbey. Au 
 ancient causeway, probably of Roman 
 origin, leads from here across the 
 marshes to the Thames, wliere was 
 formerly a ferry, beyond which the 
 road proceeded in a direct line toward 
 Colchester (Camulodunum). 
 
 [1. of Higliam stretches away a 
 dreary ague-haunted district, formed 
 by the tongue of low chalk land, 
 surrounded by a broad hem of 
 marsh, lying between the Thame* 
 and the Medway. The greater part 
 of this is comprised in the Hundred 
 of Hoo, of which a proverb ran in 
 HoUinshed's time — 
 
 •' He that rides into the hundred of Hoo, 
 Besides pilfering seamen, will find dirt 
 enoo." 
 
 The dirt at least still exists in 
 plenty. There are here one or two 
 churches of interest, which may best 
 1)0 reached from Strood. Cliffe and 
 Coiding maybe visited fromHigham. 
 Cliffe (2 m. from Higham), on the 
 edge of the chalk overhanging the 
 marshes, is a place of considerable 
 interest to the archfcologist, since it 
 has been generally regarded as the 
 Cloveshoo (Clifte at Hoo) at which, 
 during the 7th and two following 
 cents., numerous councils of the 
 Saxon church were held ; the place 
 being first mentioned in 673, when 
 Abp. Theodore, in a council at 
 Hertford, arranged with his bishops 
 and clergy for an annual meeting 
 at Clofeslwch. (Beda, H. E. iv. 5). 
 Others have placed Cloveshoo at 
 Abingdon in Berks, or at Clifton 
 Hoo in Bedfordshire. Clifte was at 
 all events one of the earliest posses- 
 sions of Ch. Ch. Canterbury, and was 
 retained by that monastery until the 
 dissolution. The church, ded. to 
 St. Helen, is mainly Perp. and still 
 exhibits the miserere stalls found in 
 most of the churches on the Ch. Ch. 
 I manors. There are some fragments 
 , of stained glass. Brass : Bouham 
 I Faunce, wives and children, 1052. 
 I lu the nave and N. aisle are sepul- 
 chral slabs with short inscriptions
 
 Kknt. 
 
 Route 2. — Cowling. — Strood. 
 
 33 
 
 iu Norm. Frcncli, perhaps of tlie 
 14th cent. An ancient silver-gilt 
 paten, enriclicd with blue and green 
 enamel, and having in the centre a 
 representation of the Trinity, is pre- 
 served among the eommmrion-plate. 
 It is perhaps temp. Edw. III. 
 
 About L m. E. of Clifle is C'oa-?//);/, 
 where, on the edge of the marsh, are 
 considerable remains of a castle, for- 
 merly lield by the Cobhams, and 
 worth a visit. The castle formed a 
 square, and was surrounded by a 
 moat, beyond which was the gate- 
 house, flanked by two round towers, 
 and machicolated. The ruins of the 
 castle itself are now converted into 
 a farmhouse. The gatehouse re- 
 mains nearly perfect, and has still 
 on the E. tower a brazen tablet with 
 this inscription : — 
 
 " Knoweth that betli anil shall be 
 That I am made in help of the centre ; 
 In knowing of whiche thing 
 This is charlre and witnessing." 
 
 Beneath is the seal of arms of John 
 de Cobham, who (4th Eich. II.) ob- 
 tained licence to embattle his manor- 
 liousc here, which he entirely rebuilt. 
 Cowling had been in the hands of 
 the Cobhams since the reign of 
 Edw. I., and passed, through their 
 lieiress, to Sir John Oldcastle, who 
 assumed in consequence the title of 
 Lord Cobham. It was in Cowling 
 Castle that Sir John, then the great 
 leader of the Lollards, shut himself 
 up when accused of heresj' by Abp. 
 Arundel, whose apjDaritor showed 
 himself before the walls with his 
 citation to no pin-pose. Lady Cob- 
 liam retained Cowling after the exe- 
 cution of Sir John Oldcastle, and 
 her descendants possessed it until 
 about IGGS. Sir Thomas Wyatt, 
 during his insurrection in the first 
 year of Queen IMary, attacked Cow- 
 ling with G pieces of cannon ; but 
 ai'ter doing considerable damage to 
 the castle, was compelled to marcli 
 on to Gravesend without taking it. 
 It was then held by Sir treorgc 
 Brookes, Lord Cobham. 
 
 The Church of Cowling was given 
 to the Cathedral of Eochester about 
 9G0. Brass : Faith Brooke, daughter 
 of Sir J. Brooke, Lord Cobham. 
 1.508.] 
 
 Between some deep cuttings, and 
 by a tunnel of considerable length, 
 through which the Thames and Med- 
 way Canal formerly passed, and the 
 enlargement of which for the rail- 
 way offered much difficulty, owing to 
 the lightness of the chalk which it 
 pierces, the rail reaches 
 
 31 m. Strood, the station for Eo- 
 rhester, Chutliain, and Brampton, 
 which, together witli Strood, form in 
 fact a single town, united by a bridge 
 across the Medway. 
 
 Omnibuses for Eochester, Chat- 
 ham, and Brompton meet every 
 train. 
 
 The Medway Company's steam- 
 boats leave the quay close adjoining 
 the station, for Sheeiiiess, 3 times 
 every day during the summer. (See 
 Ete."3.) 
 
 There is little to delay the tourist 
 on the Strood side of the Medway ; 
 and the clnu-ches of Strood and 
 Frinsbury, which latter is seen from 
 the station. 1., are of small interest. 
 The Church of Strood was rebuilt 
 in 1812, with the exception of the 
 tower. A brass for Thomas Glover 
 and his 3 wives (1444) was replaced 
 here from the older church, with 
 other less remarkable monmnents. 
 The manor of Strood was given by 
 Henry II. to the Knights Templars, 
 and some fragments of their Pre- 
 ceptory remain on the 1. bank of the 
 river, about 5 m. above Eochester 
 Bridge. They are not, however, of 
 any great importance. Near the 
 churchyard is the site of an hospital 
 founded by Bp. Glanville of Eoches- 
 ter, temp. Eich. I., as well for tra- 
 vellers as for permanent inmates, 
 wlio distinguished themselves by 
 peii^etual skirmishes with the monks 
 of Eochester, coming at last to a 
 
 c3
 
 31 
 
 Route 2. — Rochester Bridge. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 grand 'l);ittle roj-al with thcra in the 
 orchard of the hospital. As a 
 jmnishment, the men of Stiood and 
 Frinsbury, who had si(Ud with the 
 hospital, were compelled to walk in 
 procession to Eochester every Whit 
 Monday, carrying the clubs with 
 which they had assisted in attacking 
 the monks. Hence the byeword of 
 " Frinsbnry Clnbs." One of the ce- 
 meteries of Eoman Eochester lay 
 on this side of the jMedway, and nu- 
 merous discoveries have been made 
 on its site. 
 
 The singular mixture of quiet and 
 bustle, of red barracks and black, of 
 the old world and the new, which 
 distinguishes Eochester and its asso- 
 ciate towns, is at once evident as the 
 view opens in front of the railway 
 station. Opposite rise the great 
 Norm. Castle and Cathedral. Crest- 
 ing the hill beyond is Fort Pitt, 
 above Chatham ; and immediately 
 before us is the river, crowded with 
 barges and steamers, signs of the 
 vast modern establishments which 
 have been engrafted on the old 
 Cathedral town. Bochester Bridge, 
 rt., by which we pass into the city, 
 has always been one of tlie lions of 
 the place ; and the existing structure 
 of Messrs. Fox and Henderson, a 
 triumph of engineering skill, has no 
 reason to fear a comparison with its 
 banished predecessors. A wooden 
 bridge of uncertain antiquity, de- 
 fended by a wooden tower and strong 
 gates at its E. or Eochester end, 
 continued in use until the 15th year 
 of Eich. II., when a bridge of stone, 
 one of the best and strongest struc- 
 tures of the time, was founded by 
 Sir Eobert KnoUes and Sir John de 
 Cobham, each of whom had acquired 
 great wealth during the French wars 
 of Edw. III. Both of these bridges 
 were kept in repair by a customary 
 tax levied on nearly all the parishes 
 in this part of Kent. The wooden 
 bridge occupied the site of the pre- 
 .sent iron one ; and in constructing 
 this latter, a great quantity of oaken 
 
 piles, shod with iron, the foundations 
 of the older work, were drawn from 
 the bed of the river ; as much as 
 660 cubic feet of timber being thus 
 recovered. The stone bridge, about 
 40 yards nearer the castle, had 11 
 arches, and was crested with an iron 
 railing, worked at the foundry of 
 Mayfield in Sussex, and given by 
 Abp. Warham. At the E. end was 
 originally a wayside chantry, fovuided 
 by Sir John de Cobham for the 
 benefit of travellers. 
 
 This bridge, although massive and 
 picturesque, was too narrow and in- 
 convenient for the wants of modern 
 traffic ; and the foundations of the 
 present structure, occupying as 
 nearly as possible the site of the 
 first wooden bridge, were laid by 
 Messrs. Fox and Henderson in 1850. 
 The bases on which the 4 piers rest 
 are formed of clusters of iron cylin- 
 ders, sunk below the bed of the 
 river as far as the hard chalk, and 
 filled with a concrete which hardens 
 luider water. These cjdinders rest 
 on each other, and are bolted toge- 
 ther, thus forming a solid stone 
 pillar coated with iron. Tliey rise 
 to low-water mark ; and courses of 
 masonry are carried above them, 
 which sn])port the bridge itself. 
 This is entirely of iron. The centre 
 arch has a span of 170 ft. ; the 2 
 side-arches 140 each. Toward the 
 Eochester end is the " swing-bridge," 
 a section 99 ft. long, which tiu'us on 
 a pivot, leaving an open ship-canal 
 50 ft. in width. The machinery 
 here employed should be carefidly 
 examined. The entire weight to be 
 moved is upwards of 200 ton.s, j-et 
 the bridge is readily swung by 2 
 men at a capstan. 
 
 The destruction of the massive 
 old bridge above was commenced in 
 1856, under the care of officers of 
 the Eoyal Engineers. Many illus- 
 trious personages had crossed it 
 during its long life of active service ; 
 and its career was fitly closed by the 
 passage of Queen Victoria, who in
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2. — Rochester. 
 
 35 
 
 the autumn of 1S5G more than once 
 crossed it on her way to visit the 
 wounded troops from the Crimea, 
 at Fort Pitt and Brompton. 
 
 An ugly railway-bridge, carrying 
 the N. Kent line onward toward 
 Chatham, crosses the Medway just 
 below ; but the view up the river 
 from the present bridge differs little 
 from that contemplated by Mr. 
 Pickwick from the old one : — 
 " On the left of the spectator lay 
 the ruined wall, broken in many 
 places, and in some overhanging the 
 narrow beach below in rude and 
 heavy masses. Huge knots of sea- 
 weed hung upon the jagged and 
 pointed stones, trembling in every 
 breath of wind ; and the green ivy 
 clung mournfully round the dark 
 and ruined battlements. Behind it 
 rose the ancient castle, its towers 
 roofless, and its massive walls 
 crumbling away, but telling as 
 proudly of its old might and 
 strength, as when, 700 years ago, it 
 rang with the clash of arms, or re- 
 sounded with the noise of feasting 
 and revelry. On either side, the 
 banks of the Medway, covered with 
 cornfields and pastures, with here 
 and there a windmill or a distant 
 church, stretched away as far as the 
 eye could see, presenting a rich and 
 varied landscape, rendered more 
 beautiful by the changing shadows 
 which passed swiftly across it, as 
 the thin and half-formed clouds 
 skimmed away in the light of the 
 morning sun. The river, reflecting 
 the clear blue of the sky, glistened 
 and sparkled as it flowed noiselessly 
 on ; and the oars of the fishermen 
 dipped into the water with a clear 
 and liquid sound, as their heavy but 
 picturesque boats glided slowly 
 down the stream." — Pickwick Papers, 
 chap. V. 
 
 Rochester (Pop., with Chatham, 
 Brompton, Gillingham, and Strooil, 
 about 50,000. Inns: the Crown, a 
 picturesque and venerable hostelry, 
 with gables and barge-boards, at 
 
 which Queen Elizabeth sojourned in 
 157S, and in the comtyard of which 
 the scene of the carriers in ' Hemy 
 IV.' — Part I. act ii. so. 1 — may be 
 supposed to have taken place ; — the 
 Bull, or Royal Victoria — "Good 
 house — nice beds " — honoured by 
 the visit of Mr. Pickwick), where the 
 Watling Street crossed the Medway, 
 must always have been a position of 
 importance ; and the name of the 
 Eoman Castrum here, Durohrivai 
 (Z>u-r— water, and the Celtic term 
 hriva, always found in connection 
 vntli similar river ferries), seems to 
 imply that a British stronghold had 
 still earlier been fixed at this place. 
 Its Saxon name, Hrofeceastre (Ro- 
 chester), retains, according to Bede, 
 that of Hrof, the Saxon chieftain, 
 who first settled here (Hrofs ceastre 
 or castle). 
 
 The situation of Rochester on the 
 river and the great road exj^osed it 
 to constant pillage, and it suffered 
 much from both Saxons and Danes. 
 Henry III., after the Castle had 
 been taken by Louis of France 
 (see post), restored the town walls, 
 and began a deep entrenchment 
 without them as an additional pro- 
 tection. The town itself, however, 
 was soon afterwards taken by De 
 Montfort's party, although the castle 
 held out. 
 
 Among the royal personages who 
 have visited Rochester are,— Henry 
 VIII., who first beheld Anne of 
 Cleves at the Crown Inn here, and 
 pronounced her a "Flanders mare ;" 
 Queen Elizabeth, who remained for 
 5 days here in 1573 ; King James 
 and the King of Denmark, who 
 together imderwent a sermon in 
 the cathedral in 1606 ; Charles II., 
 who passed through Rochester with 
 great demonstrations of joy on his 
 restoration, and was presented with 
 a silver basin and ewer ; and James 
 II., who, after his first attempt at 
 escape, removed here from White- 
 hall under a Dutch guard, and after 
 a week's detention embarked pri-
 
 36 
 
 Route 2. — Rochester — Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 vately on board a tender in the 
 river, which landed him at Amble- 
 teuse. Rochester was never of great 
 size ; and now consists of one prin- 
 cipal street, which has many cha- 
 racteristics in common with the 
 other towns clustered about it. 
 " Their principal productions," ob- 
 serves Mr. Pickwick, " appear to be 
 soldiers, sailors, Jews, chalk, shrimps, 
 officers, and dockyard-men. The 
 commodities chiefly exposed for sale 
 in the public streets are marine 
 stores, hardbake, apples, flat-fish, 
 and oysters. The streets present a 
 lively and animated appearance, oc- 
 casioned chiefly by the conviviality 
 of the military. It is truly delight- 
 ful to a philanthropic mind to see 
 these gallant men .staggering along 
 under the influence of an overflow 
 both of animal and ardent spirits. . . 
 The consumption of tobacco in these 
 towns must be very great ; and the 
 smell which pervades the streets 
 must be exceedingly delicious to 
 those who are extremely fond of 
 smoking. A supei-ficial traveller 
 might object to the dirt which is 
 their leading characteristic ; but to 
 those who view it as an indication 
 of traffic and commercial prosperity 
 it is t]-uly gratifying." From the 
 Jews, the shrimps, and the soldiers, 
 however, the tourist will at once 
 escape, by turning from the High 
 Street, rt., toward the Cathedral, 
 which, although inferior in size and 
 general appearance to all other Eng- 
 lish cathedrals, is, nevertheless, full 
 of interest, and deserves verj' careful 
 study. 
 
 A Missionary Church, with the 
 establishment of secular piriests then 
 usual, was founded here about 600, 
 under the auspices of Augustine, 
 who in fj04 consecrated Justus the 
 first bishop of Rochester. Like 
 Augustine himself, Justus had been 
 sent from the great convent of St. 
 Andrew on the Coelian, the convent 
 of Gregory the Grc.'at ; and the 
 new cathedral at Rochester was ac- 
 
 cordingly dedicated to God, and in 
 honour of St. Andrew. The posi- 
 tion of Rochester, the first outpost 
 advanced by Augustine beyond Can- 
 terbury, made it an excellent centre 
 for the confirmation and propagation 
 of the new faith. 
 
 The cathedral suffered much from 
 Danish ravages, and, like Canter- 
 bury, was in a completely ruined con- 
 dition at the time of the Norman con- 
 quest. So it continued until Guu- 
 dulf, the friend of Abp. Ijanfranc, 
 was consecrated bishop in 1077. 
 Many of the manors belonging to 
 the church of Rochester, which Odo 
 of Bayeux had seized, had already 
 been recovered by Lanfranc. Others 
 were restored to Gundulf, who pro- 
 ceeded to repair and all-bnt rebuild 
 his cathedral and the priory con- 
 nected with it. In this he esta- 
 blished, as Lanfranc had done at 
 Canterbury, a colony of Benedictine 
 monks in place of the secular clergy. 
 Ernulf, prior of Canterbury, suc- 
 ceeded Gundulf as liishop of Roches- 
 ter, and built the dormitory, cliapter- 
 house, and refectory {Ang. Sac. i. 
 342) ; but it was not imtil 5 years 
 after his death, and during the 
 l)ishopric of John of Canterbury, 
 that the new cathedral was detli- 
 cated (1130) in presence of the king 
 and a great company of bishops. In 
 this Norm. ch. were displayed the 
 slirines of St. Paulinus, third bishop, 
 and of his successor St. Ithamar 
 (644-65G), of Kentish birtli, and re- 
 markable as the first native bishop 
 of the Saxon Church. 
 
 The cathedral was greatly injured 
 by fire (combusta est, says the Chro- 
 nicle) in 1177. Richard de Ross, prior 
 in 1199, and his successor Helias, are 
 said to have covered the new roofs 
 with lead. William de Hoo, prior 
 1239, rebuilt the choir (chancel?); 
 and Richard, sacrist, circ. 1240, the S. 
 aisle of the choir. The N. aisle was 
 begun by Richard Eastgate, and 
 completed by William of Axenham, 
 both Benedictines here, and both of
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2. — Rochester- — Cathedral. 
 
 37 
 
 the 13th cent. The tower of the 
 cathedral was raised by Prior 
 Haymo, afterwards bishop, and his 
 successor John de Sheppey (1343), 
 who placed 4 bells in it, called 
 Dunstan, Paidinus, Ithaniar, and 
 Lanfranc. 
 
 The cathedi'al suffered much in 
 1264, when the castle of Rochester 
 was besieged by Simon de Montfort, 
 whose troops, like the heathen 
 Northmen before them and the 
 Pm-itan soldiers afterwards, tmued 
 the nave into a stable. The stained 
 glass seems to have disappeared at 
 the dissolution, since Abp. Laud in 
 1633 complains that the building- 
 had received great injurj'; from the 
 want of glass in the windows. After 
 the retreat of the Commonwealth 
 troops the nave was long used as a 
 carpenters shop, and " several saw- 
 pits were dug in it." At this time 
 all the brasses were destroyed, in 
 which, as their traces still prove, the 
 eh. was very rich. 
 
 The dates supplied above will 
 assist us in examining the cathedral. 
 The W. front, with the exception of 
 the great Perp. window, belongs to 
 the Norm, period from Gundulf to 
 Bp. John. The great door is a very 
 fine example of this time. It is 
 formed of 9 receding arches, with 
 pilasters at the angles, 2 of which 
 are carved into figures which have 
 been conjectm-ed to represent Henry 
 I. and Matilda. These statues were 
 much and deservedly praised by 
 Flaxman. The long, plaited hair 
 recalls the early French statues of the 
 1st and 2nd dynasties. In the tym- 
 panum is the Saviour supported by 
 2 angels ; below are figures of the 
 12 apostles, few of which are en- 
 tire. Of the 4 towers which once 
 completed this front, only 1 remains 
 tolerably perfect,— a sort of tui-ret, 
 and apparently late in the style 
 (comp. the IC. end of Horsham, 
 Sussex, which is however much 
 later). In the centre niche of the 
 N. tower is a figure which has been 
 
 thought to represent C4undulf. The 
 whole character of this front re- 
 sembles the Norm, fragmeiits of Mai- 
 ling abbey, near Maidstone, also 
 attributed to Gundulf. 
 
 The Nave (150 ft. long to the 
 cross of the lantern) is Norm, as far 
 as the 2 last bays eastward, and 
 possibly part of Gimdulfs work. 
 The triforium is richly ornamented 
 (comp. Christ Church, Hants, of 
 the same date) ; and the arches open 
 to the side aisles, as well as to the 
 nave, a peculiarity perhaps derived 
 from the Norm, cathedral of Can- 
 terbury (no longer existing), which in 
 its tiu-n may have received it from the 
 ch. of St. Stephen's at Caen, where 
 the same arrangement may still be 
 seen. Lanfranc, tlie builder of the 
 Norm. ch. at Canterbury, had been 
 abbot of St. Stephen's. ( Willis's 
 Cdnferhury, p. 65.) The clerestory 
 windows above, like those of the 
 aisles, are Perp., and the roof seems 
 to have been raised at the time of 
 their insertion. The font is Norm., 
 square, and enriched. 
 
 In the S. aisle are monuments for 
 Lord and Lady Henniker (1792, 
 1803), in which Honour and Bene- 
 volence, Time and Eternity, play 
 conspicuous parts. E. of these mo- 
 numents is the late Pei-p. Chapel of 
 St. Mary, recently well restored, but 
 of no great interest. It is said to 
 have been used as the chapel of the 
 Infirmary for the adjoining priory. 
 
 In passing beyond the Norm, por- 
 tion of the nave to the E. E., of 
 which nearly all the rest of the 
 cathedral consists, the strong influ- 
 ence of Canterbury is at once appa- 
 rent. The double transepts, the 
 numberless pilasters of Petworth 
 marble, and perhaps the flights of 
 stairs ascending from either side of 
 the crypt, recall immediately tlie 
 works of the two Williams in the 
 metropolitical church, which always 
 maintained the closest connection 
 with Ilocliester, her earliest daughter. 
 
 The TFesierw or Nave Transepts are
 
 38 
 
 Route 2. — Rochester — Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 both E. E., diifering ho-wever in de- 
 tail, the N. transept being much 
 richer than the S., which is possibly 
 a few years later, and underwent 
 some alteration during the building 
 of the Perp. Chapel of S. Mary. 
 The corbels of the N. transept, 
 nearly all monastic heads, are of 
 unusual excellence ; and the whole 
 arrangement here is very rich and 
 varied. Remark the banded shafts 
 of marble that cluster about the 
 tower piers. The wooden roof, with 
 its grotesque ornaments, above which 
 hang the bells, dates from 1840, but 
 can hardly be commended. No de- 
 fence whatever can be made for the 
 miserable festoons still permitted to 
 degrade the great choir arch above 
 the organ. The w^ant of stained 
 glass, which is felt throughout the 
 cathedral, is most evident at tliis 
 point, from which the E. and W. 
 windows are both visible. In the 
 S. transept remark the uioumnent 
 of Richard Watts, of Satis, the hater 
 of proctors, and one of the great 
 benefactors of Eochester (see his 
 Hospital, in the High Street, post). 
 The coloured bust, " starting oiit of 
 it, like a ship's tigin-e-head," is said 
 to have been taken from the life. 
 
 The Choir itself, which underwent 
 a complete remodelling in 1825-30, 
 under the direction of Mr. Cotting- 
 ham, is entered by a flight of steps, 
 rendered necessary, as at Canter- 
 biu-y, by the height of the crj'pt 
 below. It is said to have been 
 first used at the consecration of 
 Bp. Heni-y de Sandford, 1227 ; and 
 is thoroughly developed E. E., al- 
 though much has evidently been 
 borrowed, even in detail, from the 
 Canterbury transition work (1174- 
 1184). It is narrow, and somewhat 
 heavy ; defects not lightened by the 
 woodwork of the stalls, which is 
 indifferent, or by the use of colour ; 
 a single line of which, however, is 
 carried along the ribs of the vault- 
 ing with very good effect. The 
 brackets of E. E. foliage, from 
 
 which the blind wall-arches spring, 
 should be noticed. Two larger ones 
 especially, at the angles of the E. 
 transept, are excellent specimens of 
 this period, before the naturalism of 
 the Dec. had begun to develop 
 itself. A fragment of mural paint- 
 ing, apparently of the same date as 
 the choir itself, remains on the wall, 
 close above the pulpit. The paint- 
 ing, when entire, is said to have re- 
 presented a subject not uncommon 
 in early chiuches, — the Wheel of 
 Fortune, with various figures, — king, 
 priest, husbandman, (S;c. — climbing it. 
 Passing into theiV. Choir Transept, 
 still E. E., and perhaps a part of 
 Eastgate's work, the first point of 
 interest is St. William's Tomb, at the 
 N.E. corner. It is of Purbeck, with 
 a floriated cross ; and there are con- 
 siderable remains of ornamental 
 painting in the recess of the arch 
 above. Its date is not clear ; but 
 the tomb is certaijily later than the 
 beginning of the 13th cent., to which 
 time the legend of St. William 
 belongs. He is said to have been a 
 Scottish baker, from Perth, who had 
 undertaken a pilgrimage to the Holy 
 Land, intending to visit the Canter- 
 bury shrine on bis way. On the 
 Watling Street, however, a short dis- 
 tance beyond Chatham, he fell in 
 with thieves, always on the look-out 
 for wealthy pilgrims ; and his mur- 
 dered body was brought back and 
 solemrdy interred in the cathedral 
 here. Numerous miracles were 
 wrought at his tomb ; and the shrine 
 of St. William, borrowing a reflected 
 glory from that of Becket, to which 
 the pilgrim was bound, speedily 
 eclipsed in reputation, and in the 
 nundjcr of votaries it attracted, that 
 of St. Paulinus, which had hitherto 
 been the great pride of Eochester. 
 Toward the centre of the transept is 
 a flat stone marked with 6 crosses, 
 upon which St. William's shrine is 
 said to have rested. The steps 
 which descend into the N. aisle of 
 the choir are, as at Canterbmy,
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2. — Rochester — Cathedral. 
 
 39 
 
 deeply worn by the constant ascent 
 of pilgrims, with whose oblations 
 Prior William de Hoo (1239) built 
 tlie choir Vj. of the transepts. St. 
 William was duly canonized in 1256. 
 His deatli is placed in 1201. Of his 
 previoiis life nothing whatever is 
 known. 
 
 W. of St. William's tomb is that 
 oiBp. Walter de Medon (1274-1278), 
 who completed his foundation of 
 Merton College, Oxford, in the year 
 of his election to this bishopric. He 
 was drowned here, whilst crossing 
 the Medway at night in an open 
 boat. The tomb, wliieh is very 
 beautiful early Dec. has been well 
 and carefidly restored at the expense 
 of Merton College. The slab, with 
 its cross, is entirely modern. The 
 effigy of Bji. Merton, which formerly 
 lay on this tomb, is now placed in 
 an adjoining recess. It is not earlier 
 than the reign of Henry VII., and 
 was executed at Limoges, at a cost, 
 says Warton, of Qll. 14s. 6tL It is in 
 red veined marble, tlie coloiu- of 
 which was long hidden imdej- suc- 
 cessive coats of whitewash. 
 
 Opposite is the plain altar-tomb 
 of Bp. Lowe (1444-1468). In a 
 chapel E. of tliis transept are the 
 tombs of Bp. Warner (1637-1666), 
 the founder of Bromley College, and 
 of Archd. Warner, 1679. Under an 
 arch dividing this chapel from the 
 choir is the very interesting monu- 
 ment of Bp. John de Sheppey (1352- 
 1361), probably the most perfect 
 specimen of ancient colouring now 
 existing in England. It had been 
 bricked \ip within the arch where it 
 still remains ; and was discovered 
 during the repairs in 1825. The 
 colours and ornaments deserve the 
 most carefid attention as well for 
 their own beauty as for their great 
 value as authorities (all tlie details 
 of this effigy are well figured in 
 Archxologia, vol. xxv.). In tlie 
 maniple, hung over tlie left arm, 
 some of the crystals with wliich it 
 was studded still remain. Itemark 
 
 the conchant dogs at the feet of the 
 bishop. Aliout their necks are scarlet 
 collars, hnng with bells. An in- 
 scription, with the bishop's name, 
 surrounds the effigy. An iron rail- 
 ing, of the same date, with his ini- 
 tials, J. S., has been brought from 
 another part of the Cathedral, and 
 placed in front of the moniunent. 
 The large branching fiuials are good. 
 
 The short Sacruriuin, or Chancel, 
 E. of the transepts, is possibly that 
 referred to as having been built 
 by Prior William de^Hoo (1239), 
 although it has undergone consider- 
 able alterations ; the last " restora- 
 tion " having taken place between 
 1825 and 1830, under the direction 
 of Mr. Cottingham, when the win- 
 dows at the E. end, which had 
 hitherto been concealed by an altar- 
 screen, were uncovered and re- 
 newed. They are Dec, and exhibit 
 an arrangement of great beauty and 
 interest. The other windows, also 
 Dec, were renewed at the same time. 
 The Chancel walls are, however, 
 E. E., and perhaps the original work 
 of Prior de Hoo. The stone vaidt- 
 ing, both of chancel and choir, is of 
 E. E. date ; and although consi- 
 derably later, shoidd be compared 
 witli that of Canterbury. During 
 Mr. Cottingluim's restoration, the 
 walls were scraped and pointed ; an 
 operation which has by no means 
 rendered their appearance more ve- 
 nerable. The shrine of St. Pauli- 
 nus, which here seems to have taken 
 the place usually assigned to the 
 altar of the Virgin, is thought to 
 have occupied a central jDOsition im- 
 mediately between the E. walls of 
 the transepts. 
 
 The monuments are (beginning at 
 the N.W. cornQr)~Bp. Gilhert de 
 Glanville (1185-1215), shrine-.'-liaped, 
 with medallions on the sloping- 
 cover ; the work of which was ai^i^a- 
 rently never finished. It is perhaps 
 questionable whether tliis remark- 
 able monument is not of earlier date 
 than Bp. Glanville, to whom it has
 
 40 
 
 Route 1. — Rochester — Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 been assigned. E. is the monument 
 of Bp. Lawrence de St. Martin (1251- 
 1274). Tlie richly wrought canopy 
 iiljove the effigy is an excellent speci- 
 men of early Dec. It was tliis bishop 
 who procm-ed the canonization of St. 
 William. In the N. wall beyond 
 (an imusual position) is an early 
 Dec. piscina. 
 
 On the S. side of the Chancel, next 
 the altar, is a tomli of plain marble 
 which has been called that of Ep. 
 GiinduJf (]On-UOS), tiie builder of 
 the Norm, portion of the Cathedral, 
 and of the Castle of Eochester. It 
 is without mark or inscription. 
 Beyond is the monument with 
 effigy, of Bp. Inglethorpe (12S3-12n). 
 In the wall below are 3 sedilia of 
 Dec. character, restored in 1825. 
 
 In the E. wall of the S. choir tran- 
 sept is one of the great glories of the 
 Cathedral, the Chapter-house door, of 
 which a cast, very questionably 
 coloured, exists in the palace at 
 Sydenham. It is late Dec. work, 
 and was restored by Mr. Cottiug- 
 ham in 1830. The principal figures 
 on either side represent the Jewish 
 Church, leaning on a broken reed, 
 blindfolded, and holding in her riglit 
 hand the iipturned tables of the law ; 
 and the Christian, standing erect 
 with cathedral and crozier. The 
 other figures have been variously 
 explained. The 4 lower ones, seated, 
 possibly represent the Fathers of the 
 Church. Above, on either side, 
 appear angels, rising from what seem 
 to be purgatorial flames, and jjray- 
 ing for the "pure soul" represented 
 by the small naked figure at the 
 point of the arch. If the meaning 
 is obscure, the work is of great ex- 
 cellence, and deserves careful notice. 
 The oaken door within the arch is 
 modern. The Chapter-house, into 
 which this door opens, is a modern 
 addition, and serves also as the 
 Lihrary of the Cathedi-al. Here is 
 preserved the MS. of the Textus 
 Roffensis, a collection of records, 
 gifts, and ancient privileges of the 
 
 Church of Eochester, compiled 
 under the direction of Bp. Ernulfus 
 (1115-1125). This venerable MS. 
 has undergone considerable i:)erils ; 
 having at one time been stolen, and 
 only restored to the Chapter by the 
 aid of a decree in Chancery ; and on 
 another occasion having fallen into 
 the Thames, whence it was rescued 
 witli no small difficrdty. The Cus- 
 fiunule Boffense, a MS". of not less 
 importance, is also preserved here. 
 
 Under the transept window ad- 
 joining the Chapter-house is an 
 ' unknown tomb, marked with a cross. 
 The destruction of the original Chap- 
 ter-house has here thrown the shafts 
 nuieli out of the perpencheular. Ee- 
 mark the horizontal oaken roof, temp. 
 Edw. I., studded with corbel heads 
 and bosses. It is, perhaps, unique, and 
 certainly tlie most valuable instance 
 of the kind in England. 
 
 A steep flight of stairs, strongly 
 recaUing Canterbury, leads from this 
 transept to the Ciiapel called St, 
 Edmund's S. of the Choir. The 
 defaced effigy in the N. wall is sup- 
 posed to be that of Bp. John de 
 Bradfield (1278-1283). 
 
 From St. Edmund's Chapel we 
 enter the Cn/^yf, which extends under 
 the whole of the Choir. The W. 
 and E. parts are evidently of much 
 earlier date than the central, which 
 is E. E., and of the same period as 
 the Choir above. In building this 
 the ancient Crypt was probably 
 broken througli, and in part recon- 
 structed. The earlier portions are ilis- 
 tinguished by very massive piers and 
 circular arches. "Between the piers 
 are small pillars with jilain, broad 
 capitals. It is not impossible that 
 this part of the Crypt may date from 
 before the Conquest. At all events 
 it is the earliest portion of the ex- 
 isting Cathedi-al, and cannot be 
 later than the work of Bp. CUmdidf. 
 
 Traces of former altars, and of ex- 
 tensive nnn-al painting, remain in 
 different parts of the Cryjit. There 
 are no monuments.
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2. — Rochester — P, 
 
 nory. 
 
 41 
 
 The internal dimensions of the 
 Cathedral are — 
 
 ft. 
 Total length from W. to E. . 310 
 „ of Nave . . . 150 
 
 „ of Choir . . . 156 
 
 Western transept, N. to S. . 123 
 Eastern or Clioir transept . 95 
 Breadth of Nave and Choir 
 (including the aisles j . . 68 
 Of the Bps. of Rochester who have 
 found resting-places elsewhere than 
 in their own Cathedral, the most re- 
 markable are — Jolui Fislier ( 1504- 
 1535), the feUow suflerer witli Sir 
 Tliomas More, wliose Cardinal's hat 
 arrived in England some days after 
 the head that should have worn it 
 had fallen on Tower Hill. He was 
 bm-ied in the Tower. Nicholas Ridley 
 (1517-1550), in which last year he 
 was translated to London, and mar- 
 tyred with Latimer in 1555. Thomas 
 Hpratt (1684-1713), the hero of the 
 famous " flower-pot " treason at 
 Bromley (see Macaulaij, H. E. iii.), 
 bm-ied in Westminster Abbey. His 
 successor, Francis Atterbury, the 
 friend and correspondent of Pope, 
 who died in exile, 1732 ; and Samuel 
 Horsley (1793-1802). The diocese 
 of Rochester was, until recently, the 
 smallest in England, consisting only 
 of 99 parishes in the W. division of 
 Kent, and of one or two outlying dis- 
 tricts or " peculiars." It now com- 
 prises the whole of Essex, and great 
 part of Hertfordshire. Danbury Pa- 
 lace, the episcopal residence pur- 
 chased by the Ecclesiastical Com- 
 missioners, is in the former county. 
 
 Returning to the exterior of the 
 Cathedral, the chief point to be 
 noticed is Guudulf s Totcer at the E. 
 end of the N. transept. It is Norm., 
 and was probably built as the record 
 tower and treasiu-y of Gundulfs 
 Cathedral. (Comp. St. Andi-ew's 
 Tower, Canterbury, the date and 
 position of whicli are nearly the 
 same.) The walls are 6 ft. thick, 
 and the tower seems to have con- 
 tained 2 chambers, each about 24 ft. 
 
 square. It has been suggested that 
 the original entrance was from the 
 top. In the S.W. angle of the 
 N.E. transept is a newel stair, 
 from the top of which an arch is 
 thrown to the summit of tlie tower, 
 across an open space of 10 ft. This- 
 arrangement, evidently intended for 
 the secmity and defence of the re- 
 cord tower, is curious and miusual. 
 There are at present 2 narrow en- 
 trances into the ch. from the S. side 
 of the tower ; of later date, however, 
 if tlie above suggestion be correct. 
 
 The greater part of the central 
 tower dates from 1825, when it was 
 raised under the direction of Mr. 
 Cottingham. It can hardly be pro- 
 nounced satisfactory. A small por- 
 tion immediately above the roof is 
 the work of Bp. John de Sheppey 
 (1352). 
 
 Of the Priory of St. Andrew, 
 coeval with the ch., and re-estab- 
 lished by Gundulf, almost the only 
 remains are in the garden of the 
 Deanery, where is a small fragment 
 of the cloister wall, supporting some 
 window arches of the old chapter- 
 house. This is all Norm., and the 
 recorded work of Ernulf, Gundulfs 
 successor. The diajDer in front is 
 also found at Canterbury (where 
 Ernulf was prior before his removal 
 to Rochester, and where he built 
 much), on the wall of the passage 
 leading to the crypt from the Martyr- 
 dom transept. The lower arches, now 
 closed, opened into an area below 
 the chapter-house, used as a place 
 of interment more than usually 
 honourable. The signs of the zodiac 
 enrich the central arch. On a smaller 
 one adjoining are the words " Aries 
 per curnua," the only part of the in- 
 scriittion still legible. 
 
 Within the Deanery, at the foot 
 of the staircase, is an arcade, very 
 closely resembling that on the ex- 
 terior of St. Auselni's Tower, Canter- 
 bury, also the work of Ernulf. The 
 Deanery occupies the site of the E. 
 end of tlie chapter-house.
 
 42 
 
 Route 2. — Rochester — Castle. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Tlie ancient Episcopal Palace licre 
 was at the S.E. corner of the pre- 
 cincts. Since the Reformation the 
 bishops have resided altogether at 
 Bromley, where, however, their 
 palace, called by Horace Walpole 
 a "paltry parsonage," has ceased to 
 buloag to them since the eidargement 
 of the see, and the conseqnent pur- 
 chase of Danbury. 
 
 Scarcely second in interest to the 
 Cathedral, which rises close imder its 
 walls, and found it more than once a 
 dangerous neighbour, is the Castle. 
 The present Norm, keep no doubt oc- 
 cupies the site of an earlier fortress. 
 It stands at the S.W. angle of the city 
 walls, and was surrounded on three 
 sides by a deep fosse, which may still 
 be partly traced. On the fourth runs 
 the Mcdway. Much of the outer 
 walls, with square open towers re- 
 curring at intervals (,Comp. Dover), 
 also exists. The main entrance to 
 the outer ballium was on the N.E. 
 side, from which there was an easy 
 descent to the High Street. The 
 whole work is assigned to Bj). Gun- 
 dulf, whose skill in military archi- 
 tecture Avas also displayed in the 
 White Tower of London, and in some 
 parts of the keep at Dover. 
 
 The .3 Norm, keeps of Colchester, 
 Norwich, and Canterbury, are all 
 larger than Rochester. Newcastle 
 is smaller. None of these, however, 
 show the original arrangement bet- 
 ter than Rochester, and no English 
 ruin of tins period gives a more 
 powerful impression of ancient gran- 
 deur. The keep forms a quadrangle, 
 more tl ran 70 ft. square, and about 
 100 high. At each angle is a but- 
 tress tower, 12 ft. square, and rising- 
 above the principal mass. Attached 
 to the E. angle is a smaller tower, 
 about 2-.3rds the height of the otlier, 
 and 28 ft. square. In this was the 
 grand entrance, by a flight of steps, 
 and an arched gateway, enriched. 
 This and the other arches are of Caen 
 stone. The mass of the walls, on an 
 average 12 ft. thick, is of Kentish rag. 
 
 The large tower contained 3 stories 
 of lofty apartments, and a vault be- 
 neath. A partition-wall divides the 
 building in the centre, and in it is a 
 well, 2 ft. 9 in. in diameter, running 
 through all the stories from the top. 
 
 Into the first story, over the vaults 
 or store-rooms, the outward door of 
 the grand entrance opened from a 
 kind of vestibule in the smaller 
 tower. This was divided from the 
 rooms in the great tower by a port- 
 cullis. (Remark the groove in the 
 main wall, passing through to the 
 next story. It is well worked. Frag- 
 ments of iron staples still remain 
 in the stone-work of both entrances.) 
 The rooms in this story are about 
 20 ft. high. 
 
 In the E. angle, adjoining the 
 entrance, a broad winding staircase 
 ascends to the second story, on which 
 were the rooms of state, 32 ft. high. 
 The central wall of partition here 
 supports 3 massive circular columns, 
 forming 4 grand arches. The rooms 
 have fireplaces witli enriched arches, 
 the smoke from which passed 
 through wall - openings near the 
 hearth. A narrow arched passage 
 in the wall runs quite round the 
 tower in this story. The size and 
 general arrangements of the entire 
 keep are perhaps best seen from 
 here. 
 
 From the fh/'nl story, to which 
 the stairs ascend, a noble view is 
 commanded, including the winding 
 river, the towns on its banks, the 
 Cathedral and its close, and reach- 
 ing as far as the junction of the 
 Medway with the Thames. 
 
 Remark, throughout, the wonder- 
 ful strength and massive character 
 of the masonry. The view looking 
 into the tower, from under the 
 main entrance, should be sought 
 by the artist aV)0ut mid-day, when 
 the sun has risen above the walls. 
 An extremely beautiful eftect is then 
 produced by the streaming of the 
 light across the great pillai's, at the 
 bases of which grow thick masses of
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 2. — Rochester — Castle. 
 
 43 
 
 " greenery." The wall of the keep 
 beyond remains in deep shadow. 
 The ruin, which at present beloiigs 
 to the Earl of Jersey, is well kept 
 and its different passages may be 
 examined with perfect safety. The 
 single red pink {Dianthus prolifer), 
 grows wild on some parts of the 
 Castle. 
 
 From the top of the keep the 
 tourist looks down, S., on Boley Hill, 
 rising above the river, close to tlie 
 Castle. Here, under an elm-tree, the 
 corporation liold a separate conrt- 
 leet for this district. Much of this 
 hill is perhaps artificial ; but a lofty 
 mound on one side is certainly so. 
 Similar mounds are fovmd in con- 
 nection with the defences of other 
 Norm, keeps, as at Canterbury (in 
 the Dane John) and at Oxford. 
 (In more recent fortification such 
 mounds were called Cavaliers : there 
 is one in the citadel at Antwerp.) 
 On Boley Hill is the house of Satis 
 (rebuilt, however), once the resi- 
 dence of the proctor-hating Master 
 Watts, who entertained Queen Ehza- 
 beth here during the last day of her 
 stay in Eochester. To his expres- 
 sions of regret at having no better 
 accommodation to otfer, her Majesty 
 was graciously pleased to reply 
 "Satis,'' by which name the house 
 has ever since been known. Nume- 
 rous Roman remains have from time 
 to time been discovered on Boky 
 Hill. 
 
 The History of the Castle is as 
 follows : — Odo of Bayeux, who had 
 been banislied by tiie Conqueror, re- 
 turned on the accession of Rufus, in 
 1087, and was confirmed by the king 
 in his former Earldom of Kent, to 
 which Roclicster was attached. A 
 fresh quarrel, however, broke out 
 between him and William II., wlio 
 at last besieged and took the Castle 
 of Rochester, which seems to have 
 received considerable damage. The 
 king, who is said to have suspected 
 the loyalty of Gundnlf, then Bp. of 
 Rochester, insisted on his building a 
 
 " tower of stone," at his own ex- 
 pense, within tlic Castle. To this the 
 Bp. consented, after much opposi- 
 tion, and the existing keep was com- 
 menced by him, though in all prol)a- 
 bility not completed during his life. 
 
 The Abps. of Canterbury were 
 aiipoiuted Constables of Eochester 
 Castle by Henry I. ; but during the 
 troubles of Stephen's reign it passed 
 from them and was never restored. 
 It remained in the hands of the 
 Crown, by which the constables were 
 appointed, until after tlie accession 
 of Henry VII., when, owing to the 
 increased use of artillery, it became 
 of little importance, and was ac- 
 cordingly suSered to fall to ruin. 
 James I. granted the site to Sir 
 Anthony Weldon, and it has since 
 passed tlirough various hands. It is 
 now the property of the Earl of 
 Jersey. 
 
 Eochester Castle was the first for- 
 tress invested and reduced by Louis 
 of France after his invasion of Eng- 
 land in the last year of King John. 
 The whole of the outworks of the 
 Castle were taken by Simon de 
 Montfort in 12G4 ; but after 7 days' 
 close siege to the existing keep- 
 tower, defended for the king by 
 Eoger de Leyborne, Earl Simon was 
 compelled to return disai:)i)ointed to 
 London. 
 
 The visitor should walk quite 
 round the Castle, both outside and 
 inside the walls, for the sake of the 
 many picturesque points of view in 
 which it presents itself. There is a 
 pleasant j)ublic walk, planted with 
 trees, under the wall, above the 
 Med way. 
 
 After visiting the Castle and Ca- 
 tliedral the tourist will soon com- 
 plete his researches in Eochester. 
 The Church of St. Nicholas, adjoin- 
 ing the Cathedral, was rebuilt in 
 l(j24, and is a favourable specimen 
 of debased Gothic. In St. Margaret's, 
 N. of the Castle, is a brass with 
 semi-effigy of Thomas Codd, vicar, 
 1464. A remarkable bust, or corbel,
 
 44 
 
 Eoute 2. — Bochester — ]\att^^ Hospital. 
 
 fSect. I. 
 
 projectiug from the E. wall, shovdd 
 ;ilso be noticed. 
 
 The gilt Clod:, ■wliicli projects into 
 the High Street, "as if Time canied 
 on business there, and hung out his 
 sign," was the gift of Sir Cloudeslev 
 Shovel, 1706. The Townhall below 
 it (iu which is Sir Cloudesley's por- 
 trait) dates from 1687, and assists, 
 with other brick fronts and heavy 
 cornices, in producing a certain air 
 of bag- wig and ruilles felt through- 
 out the street, in spite of the shrimps 
 and soldiers. To this the recol- 
 lection of James II. 's detention 
 here may possibly contribute. The 
 house he is said to have occupied is 
 pointed out a short distance below 
 the clock, and on the same side. It 
 is now faced with dark brick, but 
 has been modernized. There is a 
 passage through the garden behind 
 to the river, b}' wliich the king pro- 
 ceeded on board the tender. 
 
 On the S. side of the street is 
 Rlcliard Watts Hospitcd, founded in 
 1579, and to be recognised by its 
 remarkable inscription, which de- 
 clares that " six poor travellers may 
 receive here lodging, entertainment, 
 and fourpence each, for one night, 
 provided they are not rogues nor 
 proctors." The house is apparently 
 little changed ; although it would 
 appear that but little of it is at pre- 
 sent assigned to the " poor travel- 
 lers," who are now "lodged," but 
 not " entertained," iu " two little 
 outer galleries at the back." "I had 
 been a little startled, in the cathe- 
 dral," says a writer who has conferred 
 not the least of its distinctions on 
 Eochester, "by the emphasis with 
 whicli the efiBgy of Master Eichard 
 Watts was bursting out of his tomb ; 
 but I began to tliink, now, that it 
 jniglit be expected to come across 
 the High Street some stormy night, 
 and make a distmbance here." 
 " About a tliirtieth part of the annual 
 revenue is now expended on the pm- 
 poses commemorated iu the inscrip- 
 tion over tiie door: the rest being 
 
 handsomely laid out in Chancery, 
 law expenses, coUectorship, receiver- 
 ship, poundage, and other append- 
 ages of management, highly compli- 
 mentaiy to the impoiiance of the six 
 Poor Travellers. In short, I made 
 the not entii-ely new discovery that 
 it may be said of an establishment 
 like this, iu dear old England, as of 
 the fat oyster m the American story, 
 that it takes a good many men to 
 swallow it whole." — Hiyisehold Words, 
 vol. X. " The prescribed nmuber 
 of Poor Travellers are forthcoming 
 every night from year's end to year's 
 end ; and the beds are always oc- 
 cupied." AMiat injury Master Watts 
 had received at the hands of proc- 
 tors is altogether unknown. 
 
 A remarkable house of earlier date 
 (now a schoolj should be noticed a 
 short distance below the hospital. 
 There are vaulted cellars of perhaps 
 E. E. date imder the Crown and 
 George Inns, the latter of which has 
 elaborately carved bosses and cor- 
 bels. Some portions of the ancient 
 city walls, in which are great quan- 
 tities of Eoman bricks, may still be 
 traced. They are most perfect near- 
 the S.E. angle. 
 
 Eochester has no trade or manu- 
 facture worth specifj'ing. Tlie cor- 
 poration possesses extensive oyster 
 fisheries in the creeks and inlets at 
 the mouth of the Medway, and regu- 
 lates, by a jmy of free dredgers, the 
 time of opening, stocking, and shut- 
 ting them. From 40,000/. to 50,000/. 
 annually i^ass thi-ough the hands of 
 this jurj-. 
 
 The inhabitants of Eochester 
 share, ■nith those of the adjoining 
 to^vns, the appellation of " Kentish 
 loug-taUs." In retiun for having 
 docked the tails of Abp. Bccket's 
 horses, that irascible saint is said to 
 have bestowed caudal ai:)pendages 
 on all the posterity of the evil-doers, 
 a pmiishment which seems to have 
 been in some favom- with mcdiajval 
 thaumaturgists. Another version as- 
 serts that tiie Kentish appendages
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2. — Chatham — Doch/ard. 
 
 45 
 
 first appeared after the men of Ro- 
 chester had insulted St. Augustine by 
 hanging- fishes' tails to his robe. A 
 similar story is told of St. Boniface 
 during his preaching in Friesland. 
 
 If Rochester, during her earlier 
 period, sent forth no very dis- 
 tinguished sons, she has made ample 
 amends by the most recent of her 
 "illustrations." " Non ubi nascor, 
 sed ubi pascor," is, says old Fuller, 
 the rule to be observed in apportion- 
 ing each worthy to his respective 
 locality; and even supposing that 
 Mr. Dickens was not actually born 
 here, he has himself told us that it 
 was here the earliest years of his life 
 were passed ; here that he pored over 
 the pages of Fielding and Smollett, 
 under the mouldering walls of the 
 Castle, and listened eagerly to the 
 old-world legends which peopled the 
 surrounding woods and river-sides. 
 His early recollections have borne 
 fruit in his first great story, and in 
 numerous touches and allusions 
 .scattered tliroughout his works : and 
 have at lengih led him to fix his 
 summer residence in the neighbour- 
 hood, at Gad's- Hill, where the me- 
 mories of Shakspeare will henceforth 
 be not inappropriately associated 
 with the home of perhaps the most 
 thoroughly PJnglish-hearted of mo- 
 dern writers. 
 
 Mr. Pickwick's description, how- 
 ever applicable to Rochester, is in- 
 finitely more so to 
 
 Chatham (Ccetta's ham or home: 
 Inn, tlie Sun ; a very good one, and 
 close to the pier, at which steamers 
 touch many tinu's daily, on their way 
 to Sheerncss), a long, dirty street, 
 parallel with the Mcdway, swarming 
 with soldiers and Jews, and power- 
 fully odorous of shrimps and tobacco. 
 Numerous Roman remains have been 
 found lure ; but the importance of 
 Chatham is due originally to its 
 Doclajard, established here by Eliza- 
 beth, and pronounced by Camden 
 " the best-appointed arsenal the sun 
 ever saw." This had become of con- 
 
 siderable extent when the Dutch 
 made their famous attack here in 
 1GG7. It was afterwards much en- 
 larged from time to time, and is now 
 one of the most important establish- 
 ments in the kingdom. 
 
 The yard is nearly 1 m. in length, 
 and contains 4 wet docks capable 
 of receiving the largest vessels. One 
 of these, a tidal basin, 400 ft. by '.W> ft., 
 the largest dock in eitlier of tlio 
 public naval establishments, has just 
 (1857) been completed. It is floored 
 and lined with huge blocks of gra- 
 nite ; and the largest first-rate in the 
 service can enter it "all standing." 
 Another, and somewhat smaller, 
 basin is still in progress. The dock- 
 j'ard is walled, and defended bj-strong 
 modern fortifications. The arrange- 
 ment of the storehouses is admirable, 
 and a first-rate man-of-war may lie 
 equijjped for sea in a few days. — In 
 the mast-house, 240 ft. long, 120 
 wide, masts are deposited 3 ft. in 
 diam. and 40 yards high. The 
 timber for making them is ke])t 
 ttoating in 2 great ba.sins. — Tlie 
 rope-house is 1110 ft. long by 50 
 wide. Cables of great dimensions — • 
 some 100 fathoms long, and 25 in. 
 in circmnf.- — are twisted here by the 
 ai<l of powerful machinery. — The 
 sinitli's shop, where anchors of the 
 largest size are made, contains 40 
 forges. 
 
 At the N.E. of the yard are the 
 Saui-miUs, erected under the superin- 
 tendence of Mr. Brunei, and worked 
 with powerful steam machinery. In 
 the sawing-room are S saw-frames, 
 each capable of carrying from 1 to 
 30 saws ; and 2 circular-saw benches, 
 with windlasses and capstans for sup- 
 pljang them with wood ; the whole 
 set in motion by an engine pro- 
 ducing 80 strokes of the saws in a 
 minute. N. of the mills is a canal 
 passing into an elliptic basin, from 
 which the timber, having been 
 floated into the basin from the river, 
 is rajiidly raised by machinery. 
 
 On iron pipes, laid down for sup-
 
 46 Route 2. — Chatham — Attack of the Dutch Fleet. Sect. I. 
 
 ])lyiiig the yard with water, are firc- 
 jjlugs, from which, when opened, a 
 jet-d'eau rises above the roofs of tlie 
 liighest buildings. 
 
 The Gun Wharf, or small Arsenal, 
 adjoining the Dockyard, is rather a 
 storehonse than a great manxifactory 
 of military engines, like the Arsenal 
 at Woolwich. It contains a large 
 jiark of artillery. 
 
 The great event in the history of 
 Chatham and its dockyard is by no 
 means tlie most honourable recorded 
 in British history — the bm'ning by 
 the Dutch fleet of many English 
 ships of war lying here in ordinary. 
 On the 7th of June, 16G7, De Ruyter, 
 with a fleet of GO ships of the line, 
 anchored at the month of the 
 Thames. The English vessels in 
 that river, however, having received 
 timely notice, had retired above 
 Gravesend ; and the Dutch admiral 
 accordingly commenced operations 
 in the Medway, first attacking the 
 little fort at Sheerness, which was 
 abandoned after a defence of an 
 hour and a half. Although the pre- 
 parations and object of the enemy 
 liad been long known, scarcely any 
 defence had been organised. " The 
 alarm," says Evelyn {Diary, vol. 
 ii.), "was so great that it put both 
 country and city into a panic fear and 
 consternation, such as I hope I shall 
 never see more ; everybody was fly- 
 ing, none knew why or whither." Mr. 
 Pepys judiciously buried his gold and 
 valuables. (See, for ample and curi- 
 ous details, his Diary, vol. iii.) There 
 was, in fact, nothing to prevent De 
 Ruyter from destroying every town 
 and vessel in the Thames or on its 
 banks ; and it was not until the 10th 
 of June, after the attack on Sheer- 
 ness had commenced, that the Duke 
 of Albemarle went down to Graves- 
 end "to take order for the defence ;" 
 where, says Mr. Pepys, " I found 
 him just come, with a great many 
 idle lords and gentlemen, with tlieir 
 pistols and fooleries, — and the bul- 
 wark not able to have stood half an 
 
 hour had the Dutch come up." — 
 " We do plainly at this time hear 
 tlie guns play,* "he continues. This 
 was the attack on Sheerness ; after 
 the fall of which the Zealand 
 and Frieseland ships joined De 
 Ruyter, whose fleet, now 72 ships of 
 the line, blockaded the mouths of 
 the 2 rivers. The attack on the 
 ships at Chatham was made on the 
 12th of June. The English fleet 
 lay between Gillingham and Chat- 
 ham, — within the chain that at 
 Gillingham Fort stretched across 
 the river. Two large ships, the 
 " Matthias " and " Charles V.," were 
 placed as near this defence as pos- 
 sible, so as to bring their broadsides 
 to bear on the enc my. The chain, 
 however, was speedily broken ; and 
 the 2 guard-vessels set in flames by 
 fire-ships. The next day, the 12th, 
 3 80-gun ships, " the largest and 
 most powerful of England," which 
 lay ott" Upnor Castle, were also de- 
 stroyed by the Dutch fire-ships, — 
 the final attempt of the enemy in 
 the Medway. 22 large vessels were 
 lying at Chatham when the chain 
 was broken ; and, considering the 
 utter want of preparation on our 
 side, it is only wonderful that the 
 vast Dutch armament did not prove 
 far more destructive. Except recon- 
 noitring, however, they did nothing 
 until the 25th July, when a skirmish 
 between Dutch and English fire- 
 ships took place in the Hope, — the 
 enemy losing 11, and the English 8. 
 De Ruyter hovered about the coast 
 for some days after, and then retired. 
 The " Roj^al Oak," one of the great 
 ships ])urnt at Upnor, was com- 
 manded by Captain Douglas, who 
 shared its fate, saying it was " never 
 known that a Douglas left his post 
 without orders. ' 
 
 Every possible rmiform is to be 
 seen in the streets of Chatham. The 
 principal barracks extend along the 
 side of the river, and contain accom- 
 modation for more than 3000 men. 
 Fort Pitt, on the hill overlooking
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2. — Brompton. — Chatham Lines. 
 
 47 
 
 the town, dates from the end of the 
 last century, and, besides a barrack 
 of some size, contains a well-arranged 
 military hospital. One of the " am- 
 bulances " used throughout the Pe- 
 ninsular war, and so constructed as 
 to be taken in pieces for carriage on 
 mule-back, is preserved here. There 
 is also a Museum, formed by contri- 
 butions from both services. In it is 
 a very beautifid collection of Ja- 
 maica fruits modelled in wax. The 
 specimens of fish and reptiles are 
 good ; and there is a series of human 
 crania from different parts of tlie 
 world, of considerable importance. 
 The gardens of the fort are well kept, 
 and command a very fine view over 
 the town and river. Eemark the 
 machicoules of the principal tower : 
 they occur in the Nineveh marbles, 
 and maybe traced downwartl through 
 all succeeding military architecture 
 to that of the present time. 
 
 Chatham contains little of general 
 interest unconnected with its dock- 
 yard or barracks. The Church was 
 rebuilt in 1788, and i^ naturally 
 hideous. In the nave is a brass 
 (without effigy) for Stephen Borough 
 (d. 1584), of Northam, in Devon- 
 shire, the " discoverer of Muscovia 
 by the Northern Sea passage to 
 Archangel," in 1553. S. of the High 
 Street is the Chapel of St. Burtholo- 
 meiv's Hospital, the only existing 
 relic of this foundation for lepers 
 established by Bp. Guudulf. The 
 E. end alone is ancient, having an 
 apse with 3 circular-headed windows, 
 probably part of the original struc- 
 ture. Sc7- John Hawkins's Hospital, 
 founded by him in 1592 for decayed 
 mariners and shipwriglits, stands in 
 the High Street. A house with 
 carved front in this street is pointed 
 out as having been the residence of 
 the Petts, the great shipbuilders of 
 the IGth and 17th cents. 
 
 The Chatham Chest, a fund for the 
 relief of sailors, supplied by small 
 contributions from their pay, was 
 planned jointly by Sir John Hawkins 
 
 and Sir Francis Drake, after the 
 defeat of the Armada. 
 
 Brompton, a handet in Gillinghara 
 parish, E. of Chatham, is comjjletely 
 enveloped in the coutiuuous and ex- 
 tensive fortified lines constructed for 
 the defence of the Dockyard and Gun 
 Wharf. These lines enclose a superb 
 naval hospital, barracks for the Royal 
 Marines light infantry, barracks and 
 hospital for the line, which aft'ord 
 accommodation for 4000 or 5000 men, 
 and barracks with stables for the 
 Royal Engineers. These last have 
 been hitherto known as Bromptmi 
 Barracks. From their situation aud 
 style of building alone they deserve 
 notice ; but there are other objects 
 connected with them and the service 
 more wortliy of attention. It is here 
 tliat tlie corps is instructed prac- 
 tically in their special duties of sap- 
 ping, mining, pontooning, &c. &c. 
 Their models merit a minute inspec- 
 tion ; and it is seldom that a day 
 passes on which some interesting 
 field-operation may not be witnessed. 
 The Museum, on the N. side of the 
 barrack square, besides the models 
 already noticed, illustrating attacks 
 of fortified places, construction of 
 bridges, &c., contains relics of the 
 "Royal George" — a "dead-eye," 
 masts, and cable. The sappers em- 
 ployed on the wreck were exercised 
 here in diving for some time before- 
 hand. Here is also preserved a piece 
 of the chevaux-de-frise surmounted 
 by the forlorn-hope at Badajoz. The 
 famous sword-blades (at least in this 
 fragment) are not swords at all, but 
 narrow iron spikes like railing-tops, 
 about 1 ft. in length. 
 
 Chatham Lines, the fortifications 
 enclosing the dockyard and barracks, 
 were commenced in 1758, and com- 
 pleted about 1807. They are of 
 unusual merit, and are particularly 
 worthy of minute inspection by the 
 military man. They encircle a con- 
 siderable stretch of ground, including 
 tlie village of Brompton, running 
 down to the Medway at either ex-
 
 48 
 
 Route 2. — Gillingham. — Hoo. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 tremity. One of the cemeteries of 
 Roman Rochester, and traces of ex- 
 tensive viUas, were discovered dming 
 iheir formation. On and abont these 
 lines take place the field operations, 
 imitation-battles, and grand reviews, 
 which are the distiugnishing glories 
 of Chatham. On these occasions 
 the admiring spectators may still 
 •see, as Mr. Pickwick saw, " sentries 
 posted to keep the ground for the 
 troops, and servants on the batteries 
 keejiiiig pUices for the ladies, and 
 sergeants running to and fro with 
 vellum-covered books under their 
 arms, and Colonel Bulder in full 
 military uniform, on horseback, gal- 
 loping first to one place and tlien to 
 another, and backing liis horse 
 among the people, and prancing and 
 curvetting and shouting in a most 
 alarming manner, and making him- 
 self very hoarse in the voice, and 
 very red in the face, without any 
 assignable cause or reason what- 
 ever." Whilst enjoying the smell of 
 the " villanous saltpetre," however, 
 the visitor will do well to bear in 
 mind the awful situation in which 
 Mr. Pickwick found himself liere, 
 and to take up a position in which 
 he will neither be exposed to the 
 terrors of blank cartridges, nor to 
 the rusli of a charging regiment. 
 
 1 m. E. of Brompton, above the 
 river marshes, is the village of 
 
 GUliiiijhaiii, famous for its clicriy- 
 gardens. The name occurs also in 
 Dorsetshire and Norfolk ; and is 
 thought by Mr. Kemble to indicate 
 an ancient settlement of the Saxon 
 " Gillingas," M'hose primitive loca- 
 tion was, perhajis, Gilling in York- 
 shire. The manor was one of 
 those attached to the see of Canter- 
 bury before the Conquest. Tlie 
 Church has portions ranging from 
 E. E. to Pei-ji. The font "is Norm., 
 and very curious. The whole build- 
 ing exhibits the remains (much neg- 
 lected) of a very fine church. A 
 niche over the porch (E. E.) is 
 pointed out as having contained the 
 
 figure of " Our Lady of Gillingham," 
 pilgrimages to whom were much in 
 request. In the churchyard remark 
 the pictiu'esque ruin of an elm. 
 
 On the S. side are some remains 
 of the archiepiscopal palace, appa- 
 rently a hall, with traces of Dec. 
 windows. It is now converted into 
 a barn, 110 ft. by 30 ft. At each 
 end is a wide fireplace. At Grange, 
 ^ m. beyond the ch., is a small Peiii. 
 chapel, now used as an outhouse. 
 It was built by Sir John Philipott, 
 temp. Rich. II., present with the 
 king (as Lord Mayor) during liis 
 interview with Wat Tyler, in whose 
 death he bore a part. 
 
 Gillingham was the scene of a 
 fierce battle between Edmund Iron- 
 side and Knut the Dane. William 
 Adams, the first real discoverer of 
 Japan, in 1598, was born here. " He 
 who reads his voyage," says Fuller, 
 " will concur with Cato, and repent 
 that ever he went thither by sea, 
 whither one might go by land. But 
 Japan being an island, and unacees- 
 sible save by sea, our Adams his 
 discretion was not to be blamed, but 
 industry to be commended, in his 
 adventures." GiU'mgham Fort, on 
 the river, was built by Charles I., but 
 is of no great importance. 
 
 The churches in the hundred of 
 Hoo, on the Mcdway, opposite Ro- 
 chester, may best be visited from 
 Strood. The district, however, con- 
 tains little to attract the tourist. 
 
 The Church of Hoo (5 m. from 
 Strood) is dedicated to St. Werburgh 
 of Mercia, who, although she drove 
 by her prayers the " wild geese " 
 from her fields at Weedon, in North- 
 amptonshire, has certainly not ex- 
 pelled them from Hoo. Wild fowl 
 of all kinds abound in the marshes 
 here during the winter. The spire 
 of the ch., which is Perp., serves as 
 a landmark, and is seen, 1., on its 
 comparatively high ground {Hov —
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2. — Cohham Hall. 
 
 49 
 
 Anglo-Saxon, a hill), in descending 
 the Medway. 
 
 The Churches of St. Mary, Hul- 
 stoiv, and All Hallows, were originally 
 chapelries attached to Hoo ; and 
 although difficult of access, may per- 
 haps repay examination. Churches 
 belonging to Hoo are noticed in 
 Domesday Book, which were pro- 
 bably in these parishes. Stoke, seen 
 from the river, is Perp., and contains 
 no monuments of interest. 
 
 The little Church of St. James 
 in the Isle of Grain, at the extremity 
 of the headland, will be best visited 
 from Sheerness. It was attached to 
 the nunnery of Minster in Sheppey 
 before the reign of Edward I. Brass, 
 John Hykk and wife, 1494. 
 
 The cxcTirsion of most interest to 
 be made from Rochester is that to 
 
 5 m. Cohham Hall (Earl of Darn- 
 ley), which, together with Cobham 
 Church, will amply repay the labours 
 of the tourist, who from here may 
 visit the Churches of Shorne and 
 Chalk ; and retiu-n to Rochester Ijy 
 Gads Hill. 
 
 The Walk from Rochester(through 
 tlie woods of the park) is a very 
 pleasant one. Visitors from London 
 should take an early steamer to 
 Gravesend, and drive from thence by 
 Shorne to Cobham. 
 
 The house and pictiu-e-gallery are 
 open only on Fridays. Cards of ad- 
 mission must be procured at Mac- 
 aulay's, bookseller, in the Higli St., 
 Rochester; or at Cadell's library, 
 Gravesend. Is. each is cliarged for 
 these cards, which prevent all fees 
 to the housekeeper. The money 
 thus realised is bestowed on the 
 parish-school at Cobham. The plan 
 is altogether an excellent one, and 
 deserves to be generally imitated. 
 
 Cobham was the principal re- 
 sidence of the family of the same 
 name before the first year of King 
 John. Tliey were the great lords of 
 all this district ; frequently Sheriffs 
 
 [Kent &• Sussex.] 
 
 of Kent, and Constables of Rochester 
 Castle ; until Sir John de Cobham, 
 the builder of Rochester Bridge and 
 founder of the College here, died, 
 toward the end of the 14th cent., 
 leaving as the heiress of all his 
 honours an only grand-daughter, 
 Joan De la Poole. This lady dis- 
 posed of five husbands ; one of whom 
 was the famous Sir John Oldcastle, 
 who assumed the title of Lord Cob- 
 ham in right of his wife. By her 
 second husband she left an onh^ 
 daughter, Joan, who became heiress 
 in her turn. Lady Joan married Sir 
 Thomas Brooke of Somersetshire, 
 by whom she had a family of 10 
 sons ; and tlie estates of Cobham 
 continued in the house of Brooke 
 until the attainder of Henry Lord 
 Cobham in the first 3'ear of James I., 
 when the whole of the confiscated 
 estates were granted by the Crown 
 to Lodowick Stewart, Earl of Len- 
 nox. Througli his descendant, Lady 
 Catherine O'Brien, they passed to 
 Lord Clifton and Cornbury ; and on 
 his death in 1713 to his heiress, 
 Lady Theodosia Hyde, whose hus- 
 band, John Bligh, Esq., was after- 
 wards created Earl of Darnley. His 
 representatives have continued Lords 
 of Cobham. 
 
 Cobham has entertained the usual 
 allowance of royal guests. Eliza- 
 beth lodged hero for some time on 
 one of her progresses; and Charles 
 I. and Henrietta IMaria, after their 
 marriage at Canterbury, slept here 
 on their way to London ; the royal 
 pairfinding"allthe highways strewed 
 with roses, and all manner of sweet 
 flowers." There was no sign then of 
 the evil days in store, when Colonel 
 Sands' trooi>ers (1G43) pillaged the 
 Hall, and sent off 5 waggons loaded 
 with spoil to London. 
 
 The Hall itself stands toward the 
 centre of the Park, on low ground 
 encircled by wooded hills, toward 
 which avenues of stately oak, elm, 
 and lime trees extend themselves in 
 long vistas. It is approached by a
 
 r^oute 2. — Cohham Hall. 
 
 Sect. L 
 
 Tudor gateway, and consists of a cen- 
 tre and two wings ; the mass of the 
 liouse being of brick and Elizabeilian 
 (1582-1594), the work of Sir William 
 Brooke, Lord Cobliam ; and the re- 
 mainder, including the centre, addi- 
 tions by Inigo Jones during the 
 regime of the Stewarts, Earls of Len- 
 nox. The two very distinct styles 
 harmonise but indifferently. "Whilst 
 the wings preserve the characteristics 
 of the later Tudor style — projecting 
 muUioncd windows, octagonal tur- 
 rets, quaintly-carved cornices, and 
 ornamented doorways — Jones s front 
 is a ijlaiu facade, with Corinthian 
 pilasters. But these incongruities 
 are not percei^tible from the high 
 road, and do not interfere with the 
 general outlines of the structure, 
 which are those of a half H. The 
 southern front, though exhibiting 
 large portions of the building re- 
 erected by the foiu-th Earl of Darn- 
 ley, is eminently Elizabethan in 
 character ; and the rich tones of the 
 red brick, contrasted with the various 
 tinted foliage surrouiuhng the house, 
 offer the finest studies of colour. No 
 class of buildings is half so suggestive 
 of English domestic comfort as the 
 brick structures of the age of Eliza- 
 beth. Cobham Hall is essentially 
 of this period, though it has under- 
 gone much re-construction." — Fdix 
 Sunmierley . The principal apart- 
 ments through which the visitor is 
 conducted are, the Great Dinin<j 
 Room, with pannelled walls and ceil- 
 ing; the Gilt Hall, or music-room, 
 containing a single and superb Van- 
 dyck (the portraits of Lord John 
 and Lord Bernard Stewart). The 
 decorations of this room are temp. 
 Louis XIV. The chimneypiece has 
 a bas-relief after Guidos Aurora, 
 sculptured by the father of the late 
 Sir Eichard Westmacott. The Li- 
 hranj, where are numerous portraits 
 of English worthies, "of which the 
 panel inscribed ' Sir Philip Sidney, 
 who writ the Arcadia,' is probably 
 the only genuine and original pahit- 
 
 ing:'—F. S. The Portrait Gallery; 
 and, finally, the Picture Gallery,. 
 136 ft. by 24 ft., and thvided into 
 three open compartments. 
 
 The superb collection of pictures^ 
 formed chieily by piu'chases from the 
 Orleans Gallery, and by that of the 
 Vetturi Gallery, from Venice, is the 
 great glory of Cobham. These are 
 scattered throughout the apartments, 
 the finest being in the Picture Gal- 
 lery. As, however, the arrangement 
 is liable to frequent alteration, and 
 as some of the best pictures (those 
 in Queen Elizabeth's room) are not 
 always shown to the public (a very 
 special order being required for see- 
 ing them, about which the amateur 
 coming from a distance should make 
 incjuiry by letter before proceeding 
 to Cobham), it will be best to follow 
 Dr. Waagen's arrangement of them 
 under the different schools, of which 
 those of Venice and the Netherlands 
 are best represented here. The fol- 
 lowing pictiu-es should be especially 
 noticed. Those marked (E) are in 
 Queen Elizabeth's room. 
 
 School op Venice. — Titian: (E) 
 The Rape of Europa,a celebrated pic- 
 ture, and perhaps the finest in the 
 collection. In the left corner is the 
 artisfs signature. "The action of 
 the Europa is very animated ; 
 the landscape very poetical. The 
 equally spirited and broad treat- 
 ment bespeaks the later time of the 
 master, in which we detect, in some 
 respects, the iniiuence of Paid Ve- 
 ronese." — Waagen. (Orleans Gal- 
 lery, and said to have belonged to 
 Charles I., though not in Virtue's 
 Catalogue. There is a bad copy of 
 this picture at Dulwich.) Id. : (E) 
 Venus and Adonis. The composition 
 nearly the same as the picture in the 
 National Gallery. "The Cobham 
 version was engraved as early as 
 1610 by Ralph Sadlier."— F. 8. Id. : 
 A Christ, half-length. " Of noble 
 character, and of extraordinary 
 warmth in the full body of coloiu-." 
 — Waagen. Id. : A male portrait,
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 2. — Cobham Hall. 
 
 51 
 
 inscribed. Id. : Portrait of Ariosto, 
 inscribed. " Simplicity, dignity, and 
 grandeiu- are combined in this pic- 
 ture, which is one of Titian's tine 
 portraits."— i''. 8. Id. : (E) Danac 
 and the golden shower; questiona- 
 ble, and probably not Titian's. " Per- 
 fect in coloiu-ing." Id. : (E) Venus 
 and Cupid with a mirror (Orleans 
 Gallery). Id. : Portraits of Titian 
 and Don Francesco del Mosaico 
 (a copy, according to Dr. Waagen). 
 " Parts of this picture are in a ruin- 
 ous condition, and the hands are 
 comparatively unfinished." — F. S. 
 Giorgicme : Two pictm-es — Ciesar 
 receiving the head of Pompey, and 
 Milo torn by lions — are assigned 
 to this painter. The first only can 
 be genuine. Andrea Schiavone: A 
 Flagellation. Tliis picture has been 
 given to Titian, but is considered by 
 Dr. Waagen " a particularly fine and 
 careful work" by the first-named 
 master. Tintoretto : (E) Juno and the 
 infant Hercules ; the creation of the 
 Milky Way (Orleans Gallery) ; very 
 fine. Paul Veronese : (E) Four alle- 
 gorical representations of very un- 
 certain meaning, in which Oupid 
 plays a principal part. They are 
 entitled, 'le Eespect,' 'le De'gout,' 
 ' rAmoiu- Heiuxux,' and ' ITnfide- 
 lite.' "As respects keeping, draw- 
 ing, and masterly painting, they 
 belong to the best works of this 
 great painter." — Waagen. " They 
 Avill astonish those who estimate this 
 artist only from his works generally 
 known in this country. AVe doubt if 
 there are many things out of Venice 
 equal to them." — F. S. They are 
 engraved in Grozat's ' Eecueil,' 
 1742 ; but their signitication was not 
 then more intelligiblethan at present. 
 These pictures formed part of the 
 collection made by Queen Christina 
 of Sweden. Paul Veronese ('?): Tlie 
 Triumph of Bacchus. Alessandro 
 Veronese: Diana and Endymion, on 
 marble. 
 
 SciioolofFlokenci:.— 6'arZoi?oZce; 
 The Virgin giving the picture of S. 
 
 Dominic to the Superiors of a Con- 
 vent. A large and careful picture, 
 purchased at Florence, and recently 
 added to the gallery. 
 
 School of Hojif. — Sassoferrafo : 
 The IMadonna in prayer. " Of warm 
 tone and carefid iinish." 
 
 School of Bologxa. — Annihale 
 Carracci: (E) The Toilet of Venus. 
 Very good (Orleans Gallery). Guido 
 Eeni : (E) Liberality and Modesty ; 
 between them the ligure of Cupid. 
 " The heads are pleasing, but of 
 little expression." " Finely drawn 
 and coloured." — F. S. Perhaps the 
 best Guido here. Id. : The Daughter 
 of Herodias with the head of St. 
 John. Id. : St. Francis. Very good. 
 Id. : Head of the repentant Mag- 
 dalen. "Delicate and beautiful.' 
 Id. : The ]\Iassacre of the Innocents. 
 " Same as the famous picture at Bo- 
 logna, but much darker." From Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds's collection. Al- 
 hano : Merciuy and Apollo with the 
 flocks of Atlmetus ; the assembly of 
 the Gods above. Carefidly painted. 
 Guercino: A Sibyl. Id.: His own 
 l^ortrait. Schidone: The Transfigu- 
 ration. Marc Antonio Franceschini : 
 To this painter Dr. Waagen assigns 
 a pictm-e representing the Magdalen 
 reading. It is here given to Niccolo 
 Eegnari. Caravaggio: Esau selling 
 his birthright. JJomenico Feti: A 
 family of five persons, one of whom 
 is making lace. " A capital pictiue." 
 
 School OF Naples. — halrutor Rosa: 
 Pythagoras teaching the fishermen. 
 " This takes a distinguished position 
 among the historical pictures by this 
 master, for the happy arrangement 
 and the characteristic natiu-e of the 
 heads. If the colouring of his 
 figiu-es be deficient in truth, as is 
 usually the case, it is nevertheless 
 of great power, and the execution 
 particidarly spirited.'" — Waagen. Id. : 
 The Death of Eegulus ; well known 
 by Salvator's own etching. Much 
 darkened. " This vigorous paiuthig 
 of a horrible subject is said to be the 
 chef-d'oeuvre of the master."— F.S. 
 
 i>2
 
 52 
 
 Route 2. — Cobhani Hall. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 LI. : Jason pouring tlie sleeping 
 charm over tlie dragon. (Comp. Tur- 
 ner's "Jason," atlMarlborotigliHonse, 
 anl Ruskin's ' Notes on the Turner 
 Gallery.') Id. : The Birth of Orion. 
 Both these pictiu-es are much dark- 
 ened, but deserve attention. All the 
 Salvators liere are alike remarkable 
 for "absence of colonr, intensity of 
 sliadow, and all sorts of unrefined 
 vigour." On this subject see Rus- 
 kin, 2y«i<shii. Luca Giordano : Ado- 
 ration of tin; Shepherds. Painted 
 witli his golden l)rnsh: he had, say 
 the Italians, three — of gold, silver, 
 and lead. 
 
 Schools of tiik Nktiierlands. — 
 Itoger ran der Weyden tlie elder: 
 Portrait of a Refomier in a fur 
 cap and brown furred dress. "An 
 admirable portrait." (In the por- 
 trait galleiy). Tills is usually but 
 iiiaecurati'ly called a portrait of Lu- 
 ther. IlaheuK : Queen Tomyris dip- 
 ping the head of Cyrus into a 
 vessel of human blood (Orleans Gal- 
 lery). " This celebrated composi- 
 tion of 17 figures as large as life, 
 the best engraving of whicli is by 
 I'aulus Pontius, is a splendid spe- 
 cimen of tlie peculiar manner in 
 which Rubens treated such a sub- 
 ject." — Waagen. It is placed at 
 the end of the picture gallery ; and 
 tlie effect, when the door is opened, j 
 is that of a magnificent tahleau vi- 
 ninf. A small copy, or perhaps the 
 original sketch for this picture, is 
 also preserved here. Id. : Children 
 1 ilowing soap-bubbles. " Of wonder- 
 ful charm of nature." Id. : A Ijion 
 Hunt. A very spirited sketch. Id.: 
 Triumphal Entry of Henry IV. aftei' 
 the battle of Ivry. Sketch for the 
 great picture in INorence. Andrea 
 Mantegna"s procession at Hampton 
 Court has here been much imitated 
 by Rubens. Id. : Jupiter abandoning 
 the world to Venus and Cupid. A 
 very spirited sketch. 
 
 'J'he collection contains other pic- 
 tures iittributed to Rubens, but only 
 those already mentioned are proba- 
 
 bly by the hand of the great master. 
 " A Wild Boar Hunt " is evidently 
 finished by his pupils. 
 
 Vandyck: The Duke of Lennox. 
 A full-length figure, as a shepherd, 
 holding a crook. On a rock are the 
 words "Me firmior amor." Id.: the 
 same Duke, in black, his right hand 
 resting on the head of a large hound. 
 Id. : Lord Bernard and Lord John 
 Stuart, sons of the Duke of Lennox. 
 Whole length. A repetition of Earl 
 De Grey's pictm-e, but an original, 
 and very beautiful. Lord John fell 
 in the battle of Brandene, 16-i-4, and 
 Lord Bernard the next year in an 
 engagement near Chester. Both were 
 interred in the cathedral at Oxford. 
 Jordaens : A Girl feeding a Parrot. 
 The colouring very fine. Snyders: 
 A Stag Hunt. " Spirited and admir- 
 able." (On the staircase; as are the 
 next two.) Id. : Landscape, with the 
 fable of the hare and the tortoise. 
 " Of singular freshness of tone." Id. : 
 Studies for heads of stags. Sir Peter 
 Leiy : Dorothea Countess of Sunder- 
 land (Waller'sSacharissa). Oneof his 
 best portraits. Sir G. Kveller : Queen 
 Anne. Id. : TheodosiaHj'de, daugh- 
 ter of the Earl of Clarendon, who 
 brought the estate into the possession 
 of tlie Darnleys, her husband, John 
 Bligh, Esq., having been created the 
 first Earl. Id. : jMary of Modena, 
 Queen of James II. Mark Gar- 
 rard {!): Queen Elizabeth, in a 
 white embroidered dress, with pearl 
 coronet and necklace. 
 
 School of France. — Janet: Por- 
 trait of the Due d'Alengou, son of 
 Henry II., in a white dress. Id. (?) : 
 IMary Queen of Scots, a veiy curious 
 picture. Mary, dressed in em- 
 bossed black velvet, iiolds a crucifix 
 in her right hand, and a book in her 
 left. Below her right hand are the 
 words " Aula Fodringhamy," and 
 beneath is a representation of her 
 execution. There is either a du- 
 plicate or coi>y of this pictiu-e at 
 Windsor. Another full-length por- 
 trait of Mary is preserved at Cobham,
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 
 
 ■Cohh 
 
 lam. 
 
 53 
 
 not very flattering to her bccUity. 
 Nicholas Poussin: (E) A Nympli on 
 tlie shoulders of a Satyr. Id. : (E) 
 Oii2)icl, a Nymph, and Satyr. Better 
 in colour than the former picture. 
 Id. : Slcetch of Bacchanalian Chil- 
 dren. Id. : The Flight of Pyrrhns. 
 A repetition of the picture in the 
 Louvre, but doubtful. "Carefully 
 and equally finished in all parts." — 
 F. S. Lehridi.: The Fight of the 
 Centaurs and Lapitha?. " An ex- 
 cellent and remarkable picture of 
 the master." — Waagi'u. 
 
 S^cuooL OF Spain. — Juan Panfoja 
 de la Cruz (court painter of end of 
 Philip II. and beginning of Philip 
 III.) : Portraits of a Prince and 
 Princess, called the Archdukes 
 Albert and Isabella ; but whether 
 these are the persons rei^resented 
 seems imcertain. The pictiu'e is in- 
 scribed. Tliere is a duplicate of the 
 Prince's portrait by the same painter 
 at Hampton Court. 
 
 School op England. — Sir Joshua 
 Eeynolds: The Call of Samuel, a 
 well known and very pleasing pic- 
 ture. Id. : Lady Francis Cole, as a 
 child, with a dog. " One of the 
 finest pictures of the master. The 
 landscape of the background is one 
 of the finest specimens of his skill 
 that I know." — Waugen. Id. : Por- 
 trait of Mrs. IMonk ; very fine. Id. : 
 Countess of Clanwilliani ; " a mas- 
 terly work." Gainsborough: IMiss 
 M'Gill, daughter of the first Lord 
 Damley, afterwards Co^^ntess of 
 Clanwilliam ; very striking. Id. : 
 an unknown female portrait, " of 
 great clearness and delicacj' of 
 coloiuing." 
 
 In the gallery, remark a large an- 
 tique bath of red oriental granite. 
 
 An ancient cliariot, called tliat in 
 which Queen Elizalx'th arrived at 
 Cobham in 1.559, is preserved in the 
 yard. It is, liowever, not older than 
 William III., if so old. The panels 
 are of black leather, lined with green 
 velvet. 
 
 The Park of Cobham, which is 
 
 well varied with hill and dale, is 7 
 m. in circumference, and nobly 
 wooded. It contains a heronry of 
 considerable size, and is amply 
 stocked with deer. Many of the 
 trees are of great age and Ijeauty ; 
 one of the most remarkable being a 
 chestnut, 32 ft. in circumference, 
 called "the Four Sisters" from the 
 4 great arms into wliich it divides. 
 This famous tree is about 1 m. from 
 the Hall, near a path leading to 
 Knight's Place Farm. An avenue 
 of four rows of lime-trees extends 
 for more than 1000 yards on the S. 
 side of the house. On William's 
 Hill, one of the finest points in the 
 park, is the Mausoleum, built in 
 1783, at a cost of 9000?., but never 
 used. It is seen from a consider- 
 able distance, but is not too orna- 
 mental. The view from it, how- 
 ever, should not be missed. 
 
 The Cliurrh of Cobham, in the 
 village, at the S.W. corner of the 
 park, amjily deserves a visit. The 
 chancel is E. E. ; the rest late 
 Dec. and mainly the work of that 
 Sir John Cobham who founded 
 the College adjoining, and built 
 Pochester Bridge, temp. Edw. III. 
 The stalls for the members of the 
 college remain in the choir. The 
 archjeologist, however, will find his 
 chief interest in the unrivalled as- 
 semblage of brasses, which cover 
 the floor of the ch. 13 of these, 
 illustrating dress and armour be- 
 tween 13.54 and 1529, belong to the 
 families of Brooke and Cobluun. 11 
 others commemorate masters of the 
 college. The most important are — 
 John de Cobhnm, 1354. Sir Thomas 
 de Cobham, 13G7, and his wife Maude, 
 1370. Her costume is the sideless 
 " cote-hardi " Inittoned down the 
 front ; the head-dress is reticulated. 
 Margerie de CofiJiam, 1375. Remark 
 the reticulations of the head-dress 
 continued on the shoulders. Sir John 
 de Cobham, 13 — , the last of the direct 
 race, foimdcr of the college and re- 
 storer of the ch., a figure of which
 
 54 
 
 Route 2. — Cohham. — Shorne. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 he holds in his hand. Margerle de 
 Cohham his wife, 1395. Ralf de 
 Cohham, Esq., 1405, a half effigy, ap- 
 parently supporting the inscription. 
 Reginald de Cohham, 1420, wearing 
 a cope. Sir Beginald Brayhrooh, 
 husband of Joan Lady Cobham, 
 1405. Sir Thomas Broohe, Lord 
 Cohham, 1529. Of the masters of 
 the college, the best are— TlV/Z/rnn 
 Tanner, first master, 1418, and John 
 Sprotte, 1498. In the chancel is an 
 altar - tomb, elaborately coloured, 
 with effigies of Sir George Brooke, 
 Lord Cobham, Governor of Calais, 
 and his wife, 1558. Smaller effigies 
 are placed at the sides. 
 
 Adjoining the churchyard are the 
 scanty ruins of the Old College or 
 Chantry, and the New College of 
 Cobham, founded after the dissolu- 
 tion. The Chantry, for 7 priests or 
 chaplains, was founded and richly 
 endowed in 1387 by Sir John de 
 Cobham, who at the same time 
 nearly rebuilt the ch. At the disso- 
 lution, the site, and all the lauds 
 belonging to it, were sold by the 
 king's permission to Sir George 
 Brooke, Lord Cobham. The portions 
 remaining are part of the refectory 
 wall, and a fragment of the X. 
 cloister. 
 
 The Neic College or almshouse, 
 was raised on the site of the old 
 foundation ; pai-t of the ancient 
 buildings being used in the new 
 work. It was founded by Sir 
 William Brooke, Lord Cobham, who 
 died late in Elizabeth's reign ; and 
 forms a quadrangle, containing 20 
 lodging-rooms and a large hall, 
 now used as a chapel for the pen- 
 sioners. Over the gate toward the 
 garden are the founder's aims, with 
 an inscription. " There is a good 
 day's work for a sketcher's pencil on 
 these old buildings, with their ivied 
 archways, dilapidated gables, and 
 deep-shadowed interiors." 
 
 The " Leather Bottle,^' the " clean 
 and commodious village alehou.se" 
 to which ^Ir. Tupman retired from 
 
 the world, still exists, and affords 
 tolerable accommodation. It was 
 here that ]Mr. Pickwick made his 
 great antiquarian discovery, rivalling 
 the A.D.L.L. of the sage" of Monk- 
 bams. If the tourist be disposed to 
 trj' his own luck, he should com- 
 mence operations on the line of the 
 Watling Street, which is very con- 
 spicuous on the N. side of the park. 
 Adjoining it, about ^ m. 'W., is one 
 of the wells called St. Thomas's 
 Waterings, used by the pilgrims on 
 their way to Canterbury. 
 
 1 m. N. beyond Cobham Park is 
 the Church of Shorne, chiefly Dec, 
 and containing the altar-tomb and 
 cross-legged effi.gy of Sir Henry de 
 Cobham, Sheriff "of Kent imder the 
 first and second Edwards, and called 
 " Le Uncle," to distinguish him from 
 his nephew of Cobham. He was 
 lord of Randall, an ancient manor 
 in this parish. Brasses : John Smith, 
 1337. John Smith and liis wife 
 Marian, 1457. William Pepyr, vicar, 
 1469. The Font (late Dec), is 
 octangular, and has its compartments 
 filled with sculpture representing 
 the Passion, Kesmrection, and As- 
 cension ofOurl/Ord. The Chxu-ch 
 of Shorne was given by Henry I. to 
 the Monastery of S. Saviour, Ber- 
 mondsey ; which house retained it 
 until the dissolution. 
 
 There is some imcertainty how far 
 " 3Iaister John Shome," or " Sir 
 John Shome," a mediaeval thauma- 
 turgist of great celebrity, but whose 
 history is involved in utter darkness, 
 was connected with this place. His 
 figure usually appears presiding over 
 a'boot, hito which he is said to have 
 " conveyed the devil ;" but whence, 
 unhappily for the world, he let him 
 go again". " If we were sick of the 
 pestilence," nms Michael Wood's 
 dialogue, quoted by Brand, "we ran 
 to St. Roche ; if o"f the ague, to St. 
 Pern el, or Master John Shorne." 
 Master John liad apparently shrines 
 here and at IMurstou, nearer Graves- 
 end. He was never canonized and
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 2.—Chdlh.— Ga(Vs Hill. 
 
 is not called a saint ; his votaries 
 contenting themselves with honour- 
 ing him as 
 
 " Maister John Shome, 
 That blessed man born." 
 
 He had a chapel at Windsor ; and 
 on the rood-screens at Cawston and 
 Gateley, Norfolk, he is rejiresented 
 crowned with a nimbus. Other 
 traditions connect him with North 
 Marston, Bucks, where the chancel 
 is said to have been built with offer- 
 ings at his shi-ine ; and where he 
 had a well, endowed with great 
 virtues. (See N. and Q. vol. ii.) 
 
 2 m. beyond Shorne is Chalk 
 Cliurch ; to be visited for the sake 
 of its very remarkable porch, above 
 which are 2 grotesque figures ; one 
 of which holds a jug with both 
 hands, and looks upward laughing 
 at a morris-dancer, or tumbler. 
 Strangely placed between these is a 
 niche in which stood an image of 
 the Virgin, to whom the ch. is dedi- 
 cated. The figures are E. E. in 
 date, and very curiousr The ch. was 
 at an early period attached to the 
 Priory at Eochester; but in 1827 
 was appropriated to that of Xoi-wich, 
 also Benedictine. 
 
 The tourist may return to Eo- 
 chester (5 m. from Chalk) over 
 Gad's Hill. In again passing the 
 village of Shorne, he sliovdd not 
 miss the view from an eminence 
 behind the Crown Inn, adjoining the 
 road, and called the Halfway House. 
 The reaches of the Thames are here 
 well commanded. 
 
 1 m. beyond is Gad's Hill, on the 
 top of which is the Sir John Falstatf 
 Inn, where, however, the traveller 
 is more likely to make a'cquaintance 
 with the familiar creature, small 
 "beer, than with the sherris-sack or 
 canaries better loved of the valorous 
 knight. The hill itself, an ascent of 
 about 1 m., was so calleJ, like 
 Sliooter's Plill, from the frequent 
 robberies cotnmitte<l here by the 
 clerks of St. Nicholas {gads, vaga- 
 
 bonds ; the great clubs of wood or 
 iron carried by them were also called 
 gads) ; who, like Robin Hood and 
 Much the Miller's son, came down 
 here 
 
 " To Watling-street, to take a prey." 
 
 Thick woods, of which only a tuft 
 is now left at the top of the hill, 
 formerly spread on either side of 
 the road, in which the " men in 
 buckram' lay hid for fat franklins 
 of the Weald, rich pilgrims to 
 Canterbury, or for " the money 
 of the king's coming down the 
 hill." Such robberies were more 
 than usually frequent during the 
 latter years of Elizabeth ; and the 
 offenders seem to have been coun- 
 tenanced liy not a few of the Kent- 
 ish magistrates. Hence perhaps the 
 selection of this place by Shak- 
 speare as the scene of Sir John's 
 exploit. Its evil reputation con- 
 tinued to a much later period. 
 John Clavell, in his ' Recantation of 
 an ill-led Life, 1G34,' alludes to 
 
 " Gad's Hill, and those 
 Eed tfips of mountains where good people lose 
 Their ill-kept purses." 
 
 In 165G the Danish ambassador was 
 robbed here ; and received a letter the 
 next day from the thieves, who were 
 perhaps nearer Prince Henry's rank 
 than Dick Tuipin's — in which they 
 assured him that " the same neces- 
 sity that enforc't the Tartars to 
 breake ye wall of China, compelled 
 them to wait on liim at Gad's Hill." 
 A more famous robbery was com- 
 mitted here in 1676 by a man named 
 Nicks, who stopped and pilfered a 
 traveller at 4 in the morning, and 
 at 5 to 8 the same evening was 
 playing bowls at York. Tltis is 
 perhaps the original version of Dick 
 Tuii)in's ride. A staring obelisk on 
 the hill, to the 1., rather interferes 
 with the earlier associations of the 
 spot. It was erected to the memory 
 of a Rochester auctioneer, named 
 Larkins —a parish orator and borough
 
 0(5 
 
 Route 3. 
 
 -Me of Sheppey. 
 
 Sect. T, 
 
 Hampcleu — Ly his grateful Mlow- 
 citizeus. 
 
 Gad's Hill has recently gained an 
 illustration of very different cha- 
 racter. A house of red brick, on 
 the 1. side of the hill, near the 
 Falstaff Inn, and marked by some 
 dark spreading cedars, is the country 
 residence of Charles Dickens, Esq", 
 ■who in the ' Pickwick Papers ' had 
 already made good his rights over 
 Eochester and its neighbourhood ; 
 and who is said, at a very early 
 period of his career, to have fixed 
 on tliis very house as his future 
 home. 
 
 ROUTE 3. 
 
 THE ISLE OF SHEPPEY. 
 
 The Isle of Sheppey may best be 
 visited from Chatham, landing at 
 Sheeruess. There is a ferry across 
 the Swale, connecting a road from 
 Sittingbourne to Sheerness, along 
 whicli line a railway is now in pro- 
 gress; but the tourist will do best 
 to avail himself of the Medway Com- 
 pany's Steamboats, which leave the 
 pier adjoining the Strood railway 
 station four times daily dm'iug the 
 summer, touching in their way at 
 the Sun Pier, Chatham. The pas- 
 sage between Strood and Sheeruess 
 is made in about 1^ horn-. The 
 railroad now in progress from Sheer- 
 uess to Sittingbourne will open a new 
 line of access to tlie N. side of the 
 
 comity, from the opposite coast of 
 Essex, at Southend. 
 
 The name of the Medway is cer- 
 taiidy of British origin, though its 
 signification is imcertain. How far, 
 therefore, the Kentish river is en- 
 titled to claim cousinship with the 
 aucient Medoacus (major and minor ; 
 now the Bronta and Bachiglione) 
 must be left for the decision of future 
 antiquaries. The appearance of ihe 
 stream (at least below Eochester) 
 has been considerably changed since 
 in Spenser's days she went forth to 
 meet her bridegroom the Thames; 
 though she is still 
 
 " clad in a vesture of unknowen geare 
 Aud uncouth fashion." 
 
 As high as Eochester the river is, 
 like the Thames, under the conserv- 
 ancy of commissioners. Like the 
 Thames also, the Medway hail 
 very anciently been embanked oi" 
 " walled " for the preservation of a 
 deep channel, and the safety of 
 the land on either side. The dutj 
 of watching over these embankment.% 
 a^jpears to have been neglected foar 
 a considerable period ; lands have 
 been taken in and drained on either 
 side of the I'iver without method ; 
 and the result has been that the 
 whole of the estuary is becoming 
 choked with mud, and narrowed 
 into a series of shallow tidal chan- 
 nels, creeks, ditches, and watei-ways 
 of indescribable kinds, intersecting- 
 a wilderness of islets, above 200 of 
 which are marked on the Admiralty 
 charts. " The isolation of the land 
 upon these islands renders it all but 
 valueless. The diflBcultj' of getting 
 cattle upon such ground is consider- 
 able ; aud a high water will capri- 
 ciously come every now and then, 
 wliich stops its rising only when the 
 foot of the sm-rounding hills is 
 reached. Even the spring-tides rise 
 high enough to wet the grass and 
 flavour with salt the coarse weeds 
 which thrive there. Such is the dc-
 
 Ke^'t. 
 
 Route 3. — Isle of Sheppey. 
 
 hi 
 
 solatiou of the islets that they are 
 mowed by people who come do\vii 
 from the towns in bouts; men who 
 are uot tenants or owners of tlie 
 lands, yet openly carry away their 
 produce." — Household Words, vol. 
 xiv. Uuless some speedy remedy be 
 applied, m the shape of judicious 
 embanking, the result will be " the 
 extinction of Sheerness and Chatham 
 as water-side towns." The same 
 causes now in action here produced 
 the destruction of the ancient Cinque 
 Ports. 
 
 Vpnor Castle, 1., opposite the dock, 
 dates from the 3rd year of Queen 
 Elizabeth, by whom it was erected 
 as a defence to the river. Other 
 and more effective " blockhouses," 
 however, have taken its place, and 
 it now serves as a powder magazine. 
 Close below it the English shijjs were 
 burnt by the Dutch in 16G7 (see 
 Rte. 2). 
 
 Nearly opposite, rt., is Gillingham 
 Fort, originally built by Charles I., 
 but now of no great importance. 
 
 There is little else to attract the 
 tourist's attention until the broad 
 waters of the Thames open before 
 him, and he lands at Sheerness. 
 
 Sheppey (Sceapige— the island of 
 sheep — " VciTecmn patria," says 
 Baxter — a Saxon translation of its 
 earlier name Malata, from the Bii- 
 tish molht, a sheep, which, by a 
 cmious chance, has come back to us 
 in the Gallicised " mutton ") is 
 about 30 m. incirciunf., 11 long, and 
 S broad. (Pop. of entire island, 
 11,000.) The ground rises toward 
 the centre, but the clifts on the 
 N. side, which are from 60 to 80 ft. 
 high, deca)- veiy rapidly, " fifty acres 
 haNang been lost within the last 
 twenty years." {LyeU, 1834). " The 
 church at Minster, now near the 
 coast, is said to have been in the 
 middle of the island 50 years ago, 
 and it has been conjectured that, at 
 the present rate of destruction, the 
 whole isle will be annihilated in 
 about half a century." {Id.) The 
 
 i.^land is entirely composed of Lon- 
 don clay, which here abounds with 
 fossils of a verj^ interesting cliarac- 
 tcr. In walking along the beach E. 
 of Sheerness the visitor will find 
 "whole bushels of pyritized pieces 
 of twigs and fruits, belonging to 
 plants nearly allied to the screw-pino 
 and the custard-apple, and to various 
 species of palms and spice-tree.s 
 which now flourish in the Eastern 
 Archipelago. At the same time 
 when they were washed down from 
 some neighbouring land, not only 
 crocodilian reptiles, but sharks and 
 innumerable turtles, inhabited a sea 
 or estuary wliich now forms part of 
 the London district, and liuge boa- 
 constrictors glided among the trees 
 which fringed the adjoining shores." 
 (Oiren). We are, in fact, among the 
 ruins of ancient spice islands, which 
 once "cheered old ocean witli their 
 grateful smell/' though in the days of 
 their blooming there were no voyag- 
 ers to ' slack their course ' for the 
 sake of the sea-wafted odours, now 
 exchanged for something more re- 
 sembling the ' fishy fume ' that drove 
 away Asmodexis. The fossils to bo 
 collected here are, ' stems and 
 branches of trees, and fragments of 
 wood, perforated by teredines ; speci- 
 mens of the fruits of palms, resem- 
 bling the recent nipas of the Mo- 
 luccas (the m'pjai are low, shrub-like 
 plants, having the general aspect of 
 palms, and growing in marshy tracts 
 at the months of great rivers ; the 
 fruit here found is known as ' petri- 
 fied figs '), of plants allied to tho 
 cuciunber, bean, cyjoress, laburnmn, 
 &c. ; claws and fraginents of the 
 shields of crabs ; portions of tho 
 carapaces of tm-tles, teeth of sharks 
 and of raj's, several species of tho 
 usual shells of the London clay, and 
 an occasional specimen of nautilus." 
 — Mantell. Sjjccimens of most of 
 these fossils may generally be pro- 
 ciu-cd from dealers at Sheerness ; 
 and the collector should also make 
 inquiries at houses on the coast : 
 
 d3
 
 58 
 
 Route 3. — Ide of SJieppey. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 at Scapscjnte, where the cliffs begin 
 to rise ti-om the western end of 
 the ishxud; at Jlenshrooh, between 
 Minster and AVarden ; and at 3hid 
 How, Warden Point, where the cot- 
 tagers, most of whom work on the 
 beach, have frequently good speci- 
 mens for sale. The geologist who 
 wishes to collect for himself must 
 examine the dark patches of pyrites 
 lying mider the cliifs upon the 
 shingle ; and " to ensiu'e success, he 
 must be content to go upon his knees 
 and carefully search among the frag- 
 ments. I have by this means ob- 
 tained, in the course of a morning, 
 upwards of 100 fine fruits of various 
 sizes." — /. S. Boirerhanh. Care 
 .should be taken to ascertain that the 
 tide is falling before starting on such 
 an expedition. " The collector 
 should also be provided with five or 
 six sheets of soft paper, to wrap 
 fragile specimens in ; and a few 
 cotton or linen bags, of about 4 
 or 5 in. in chametcr, to separate the 
 large from the small fossils ; the 
 whole to be carried in a good-sized 
 blue bag or haversack : a chisel and 
 light hammer are the only instru- 
 ments required." — /. S. B. " The 
 vegetable remains are strongly im- 
 pregnated with iron pyrites ; and as 
 tills mineral speedily undergoes de- 
 composition when exposed to the 
 atmosphere, the choicest examples 
 often fall to pieces, even when pre- 
 served in a dry cabinet. Mr. Bower- 
 l)ank, who possesses an unrivalled 
 collection of these fruits, keeps them 
 in stopper-bottles filled with wattr, 
 placing the different species sepa- 
 rately, and labelling the phials. I 
 liave" successfully employed mastic 
 varnish ; first wiping the specimens 
 dry, and remo^"ing any saline efflor- 
 escence, by means of raw cotton, 
 and then "brushing in the varnish 
 with a stiff hair-pencil." — Mantell. 
 
 Pyrites, or copperas stones, used 
 for d3-eing scarlet and black, and 
 in the manufacture of Eoman ce- 
 ineut, are hei'e largely distributed 
 
 throughout the clay. There are cop- 
 peras works within a short distance 
 of Sheerness, and the stones them- 
 selves are collected in heaps along 
 the beach, whence they are carried 
 in shiploads. They were first turned 
 to account in 1570, when IMatthias 
 Falconer, a Bral)anter, established a 
 factory for making copperas at Min- 
 ster. 
 
 The island is tolerably wooded 
 about Minster and Eastchiu-ch, 
 where the ground is much varied 
 with hill and dale. A good deal of 
 corn is grown here, but the greater 
 part is still upland pasture and 
 marsh, a true " vervecura patria." 
 The Sicale, which divides it from the 
 mainland, seems anciently to have 
 been the regular ship-passage into 
 the Thames ; and the " dragons " of 
 the Northmen were many times laid 
 up here, whilst their crews wintered 
 on the island. It is still navigable 
 for vessels of 200 tons ; biit its use is 
 almost confined to the small craft of 
 the neighbom-hood. Some large tu- 
 muli in the S. part of the island, 
 called " coterels " by the iidialntants, 
 are thought to be graves of Danish 
 leaders. In the Swale, as we learn 
 from a letter of Gregoiy the Great 
 to the patriarch of Alexandria, but 
 at what point is imcertain, 10,000 
 Saxons were baptised by Augustine 
 on the Christmas-day following the 
 conversion of Ethelbert, a.d. 597. 
 (Stunh'ii, Hist. 31. of Carderhury.) 
 The importance of this coast during 
 the Anglo-Saxon period is proved 
 by the legends connected with Tong 
 Castle. (See Etc. 4.) 
 
 The places of most interest in 
 SIh ppey are Sheerness and Minster. 
 
 The docks and garrison of Sheer- 
 ness occupy the N.W. point of the 
 island, a position of extreme im- 
 portance, since it commands the 
 entrances of both the Thames and 
 the IMedway. The earliest work for 
 defence here was Edward III."s 
 Castle of Queenborough. This was 
 demolished during the Common-
 
 Kent. 
 
 Ro ute 3 . —^Sheern ess. — Minster. 
 
 59 
 
 •\vealtli ; and after the Restoration a 
 small fort, mounting 12 guns, was 
 constructed at the point of Sheer- 
 ness. This was in progress of im- 
 provement when the Dutch made 
 their famous attack on the fleet in 
 the Medway in 1667. The Dutch 
 cannon reduced tlie fort after an 
 hour and a half's firing, and their 
 troops occupied Sheerness luitil De 
 liuyter withdrew from the coast. 
 (See Rte. 2.) The fort, after this 
 warning, was increased to a regular 
 fortification. Fresh works have heen 
 added from time to time, and Sheer- 
 ness is now at least sufficiently strong 
 to be regarded with some apprehen- 
 sion by more powerful fleets than 
 those of the United Provinces. 
 
 Sheerness CPo\x 10,000. Inns: The 
 Fountain, Blue Town ; Eoyal Hotel, 
 and Wellington, Mile I'oion) has 
 grown into a considerable town, 
 with 2 main divisions, known as 
 Blue Town (within the limits of 
 the garrison) and Blile Town (Ijc- 
 yond the fortifications to the N.E.). 
 A want of water, from wliicli the 
 whole island formerly suffered, has 
 been so far remedied that there are 
 now four good wells from which the 
 town is srxpplied. These are of great 
 depth ; and, in sinking tliein, an ex- 
 tensive subterranean forest was dis- 
 covered, through which the workmen 
 had to burn their way. The Dock- 
 yard was at first intended for the 
 repair of vessels and the building of 
 smaller ships of war. It has, how- 
 ever, been much extended and im- 
 proved, and is now one of the finest 
 in Europe. It covers 60 acres, and 
 is surrounded by a brick wall, built 
 at a cost of 40,000?. The docks are 
 sufficiently capacious to receive men- 
 of-war of the first class. Besides 2 
 smaller basins, there is 1 with 2G ft. 
 of water, which will hold 6 first-class 
 ships. The Storehouse, called, before 
 the days of the Crystal Palace, 
 the largest building in the country, 
 is G stories high, and will contain 
 about 30,000 tons of naval stores. 
 
 The harbour has recently been 
 much enlarged, and the number of 
 vessels usually lying here renders 
 the scene always- impressive. 
 
 The walk from Sheerness to Min- 
 ster {'A m.) is to be recommended for 
 the sake of the view from the cliffs, 
 which is very fine. In front is the 
 Thames with its myriad vessels. 
 Sheerness .spreads out below, and 
 landward extends a wide sweep of 
 rich corn and pastxire land, through 
 which winds the Medway. The scene 
 is perhai^s as striking, from the va- 
 riety of objects it comprises, as any 
 in Kent, and is not likely to be for- 
 gotten. 
 
 Minster was the site of a nunnery 
 founded about 673 by Sexbin-ga, 
 widow of Ercombert kmg of Kent. 
 77 nuns were placed in it ; but the 
 house was laid desolate diu-ing the 
 Danish ravages, and was not effec- 
 tually restored until Abp. Corboil, 
 in 1130, placed a colony of Benedic- 
 tine imns here, under the patronage 
 of St. Sexburga. At the dissolution 
 it was granted to Sir Thomas Cheney. 
 
 Of the conventual buildings, only 
 the gatehouse, of late character, re- 
 mains. The existing Church, which 
 is of considerable interest, was not 
 apparently tliat of the abbey, since 
 H( nry Lord Cheney, temp. Eliz., 
 obtained leave to remove the coffins 
 ■of his ancestors from the chapel of 
 the convent, the materials of which 
 had been sold to Sir Humphrey Gil- 
 bert. The tomb of his father, Sir 
 Thomas Cheney, may now be seen 
 in the N. chancel of Minster Church, 
 where it was re-erected. In 1833 
 the effigy of a knight (15th cent.) 
 was exliumcd in the churchyard at 
 a depth of 5 ft., and is now placed 
 within the ch. It is of weald marble. 
 In the N. wall of the main chancel 
 is the remarkable tomb of Sir Robert 
 do Shurland, temp. Edw. I. He is 
 armed, and cross-legged ; and at his 
 right hand is a horse's head, appa- 
 rently projecting from the tomb. 
 Sir Robert was lord of the manor of
 
 60 
 
 Eoute 3. —Isle of Sheppey. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Sliurland, in tlie acljoimnej parish of 
 Eastbridge ; and (I'otli Edw. I.) ob- 
 tained, among other liberties, a grant 
 of " wreck of tlie sea " for his manor. 
 This privilege enabled him to claim 
 everything he could touch with the 
 point of his lance, after riding into 
 the sea at low water as far as i>os- 
 sible. The horse's head has been 
 thus explained, thongh by no means 
 satisfactorily. The tomb has given 
 rise to a curious local legend. Sir 
 Robert, it is said, having quarrelled 
 with a priest, buried him alive, and 
 then swam on horseback two miles 
 through the sea to the king, whose 
 shii) lay off the island. Having pro- 
 cm-ed the royal pardon, he swam 
 back to shore, where his followers 
 reproached liim witli having accom- 
 plished his journey by that sort of 
 " metaphysical aid " which is still 
 held to flourish among the wise 
 women of Sheppey. To disprove it 
 he cut oft" his horse's head ; but 
 some time aftei-wards, whilst hmiting 
 near the water, his horse stiunbled 
 over the skull of its predecessor, and 
 Sir Robert died from the fall. Hence 
 the avenging horse's head on his 
 tomb. 
 
 Brasses in the ch. are Sir John 
 and Lady de Northwode (14tli 
 cent.), of "Northwode, in the adjoin- 
 ing parish of Eastchurch. 
 
 The oyster fisheries of the Cheyney 
 Rock, which stretch along opposite 
 Minster, are very extensive, and of 
 no small celebrity. Their farmer, 
 Mr. Alston, has sent to London in 
 a single season more than 50,000 
 bushels of" natives " from this shigle 
 fishery. 
 
 iSheerness and i\Iinster form two 
 points of a triangle, of which Queen- 
 borough is the third. Edward III. 
 built a castle here, " for the strength 
 of the realm and the refuge of the 
 inhabitants," imder the inspection of 
 'William of Wickham, which was 
 named Queenborough in honour of 
 Queen Philippa. {Kingshorough, in 
 the centre of the island, was the 
 
 place at which the annual coiirts 
 were held.) It was repaired by 
 Heniy VIII. in 1536, when block- 
 houses were built on other parts of 
 the coast ; but had fallen into decay 
 in the time of the Commonwealth, 
 when it was sold, and its naaterials 
 removed. The moat alone remains, 
 within which the outline of the kee}) 
 is traceable, " in plan like a 5-leaved 
 rose, with 5 smaller circular towers 
 between the leaves, which are large, 
 and aftord platforms." An outer 
 wall encircled the moat. As the 
 most original military work of Wick- 
 ham, even these traces have interest. 
 The castle Well remains, and is of 
 considerable importance, since the 
 water throughout the island is 
 brackish and unwholesome, with the 
 exception of the wells here and at 
 Sheerness. 
 
 The Church of Queenborough de- 
 serves a visit. The W. tower may 
 be Norm. 
 
 At Shnrland, 2 m. E. of Minster, 
 are the remains of a considerable 
 mansion, built by Sir Thomas 
 Cheney toward the end of the reign 
 of Henry VIII. with the materials 
 of the ancient castle of Chilham. 
 The Cheneys obtained the manor of 
 Shnrland in 1323, by intermarriage 
 with a family of the same name 
 which had been settled here before 
 the reign of Henry III. The man- 
 sion is now a farmhouse. 
 
 The large Church of Eastchurch is 
 Perp. In it are full-length efligies 
 of Gabriel Livesey and his wife, lay 
 rector, d. 1622. It was early granted 
 to the great Cistercian convent of 
 the Dunes, on the coast of Flanders, 
 but was afterwards transferred to 
 the house of Boxley, in Kent, of the 
 same order. 
 
 In Harty Chm'ch is preserved a 
 cm-ious oak chest, on which is repre- 
 sented a tilting-match between two 
 knights. It is of Dec. character. 
 
 Between Elmley and Harty, the 2 
 southenmaost parishes of Sheppey, 
 runs up a creek called Crog Dick, a
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 4. — -Chatham to Canterhury. 
 
 01 
 
 name whicli lias not been explained. 
 The views from Harty Island are 
 picturesque. There is a small coast- 
 guard station and beacon at Shell- 
 ness, the most easternly point of 
 Sheppey, overlooking Whitstable 
 Bay. 
 
 EOUTE 4. 
 
 CHATHAM TO CANTERBURY. 
 
 Coaches leave the station at 
 Strood for Canterbury (28 m.) seve- 
 ral times daily ; and the East Kent 
 Eailway, now (1857) slowly i^rogress- 
 ing, takes nearly the same line ,of 
 route. 
 
 The main road from Chatham 
 follows throughout the ooui'se of the 
 Roman Watling Street ; interesting 
 for its own relics, and not less so as 
 the road taken by that famous com- 
 pany of Canterbiuy pilgrims who 
 set out from the " Tabard " in South- 
 wark. The scenery is good for 
 nearly the whole distance ; and from 
 Boughtou Hill, beyond Faversham, 
 one of the finest views in the county 
 is commanded. 
 
 The principal Eoman villas in 
 Kent lay along the course of this 
 great road, branches of which ex- 
 tended to the sea at Eichborough 
 (Rutupiaj) and Lymne (Portus Le- 
 manis). Pennant has remarked 
 (what is, of course, fortuitous) that 
 a protracted line of the Watling 
 Street would fall direct on Eome. 
 The original trackway was probably 
 
 British, and that by which the 
 Druids of Mona passed to the Con- 
 tinent CQ. E.,' xcvii.). It was thus 
 a " via sacra" before it became the 
 main road followed by pilgrims to 
 the shrine of Becket, in connexion 
 with which, as seems not unlikely, 
 the name of the Watling Street was 
 sometimes given to the Milky Way. 
 (Compare the Turkish name for the 
 Galaxy, " The Hadjis' Eoad," and 
 the Spanish, "St. lagos Way" — 
 Grinini. In Norfolk the Galaxy was 
 calleil " The Walsingham Way," 
 from the famous shrine of the Virgin 
 there.) 
 
 After climbing Chatham hill, the 
 road for several miles commands 
 good views of the opposite Isle of 
 Shejjpey, of the course of the Med- 
 way, its junction with the Thames, 
 its islands, and of the ships-of-war 
 lying in ordinary, extending in a long- 
 line as far as the Nore. 
 
 4 m. from Chatham is the large 
 Church of Ruinham, containing 2 
 remarkable monuments of the Tuf- 
 ton family, — George Tufton, ob. 
 1G70 ; and' Nicholas Earl of Thanct, 
 1679. Brass, — John Bloor, 1529. 
 In the churchyard is the burial-place 
 of the Earls of Thanet. 
 
 [1^ m. N. of Eaiuham, on a creek 
 opening to the Medway, is Upchurch, 
 overlooking the range of marshes 
 which extend from Gillingham to 
 Lower Halstow, and are intersected 
 by numberless creeks and channels 
 from the river. 
 
 The Cliurch is principally Dec, 
 with some E. E., and is interesting. 
 There is a vaidt under the chancel, 
 into which the descent is by a spiral 
 staircase. In Hasted's time there 
 were many bones here, — a collection 
 in some degree resembling those at 
 Hythe and Folkestone. The tower 
 and spire — the latter square for 
 about 10 ft., and then octagonal — 
 should be noticed. The ch. was 
 granted in 1187 to the Eemonstra- 
 tensian Abbey of Lisle Dieu in Nor- 
 mandy, and after the suppression of
 
 C2 
 
 Route 4. — Upchurch Marshes. — Hahtow. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 alien foundations was assigned bv 
 Henry A^I. to All Souls, Oxford. 
 
 The Upchurch marshes, wliich, in 
 fact, consist of hard ground lying on 
 a bed of very fine clay, are the 
 site of extensive Eoinan potteries, 
 " which must, from appearances, 
 have been worked during the whole 
 period of the Eoman occupation of 
 the island. In many parts along 
 the sides of the creeks, where the 
 sea has broken away the ground and 
 left a perpendicular bank, we can 
 see, running along at a depth of from 
 2 to 3 ft., a regular layer, in many 
 places a foot thick, of Koman pot- 
 tery, most of it in fragments, but 
 here and there a perfect or nearly 
 perfect vessel, and mixed with lumps 
 of half-burnt clay. The bed of the 
 creek is formed of the clay in a 
 liquid state, forming a fine and veiy 
 tenacious mud ; tliis is completely 
 filled with the Roman pottery, which 
 is more easily j^rocured in the mud 
 than on the bank, and with less 
 danger of breaking the perfect spe- 
 cimens. The latter may be felt by 
 pushing a stick about in the mud." 
 — Wright. 
 
 The search for this pottery is no 
 light task, since the treasure-seekers 
 must trust themselves, at low water, 
 to the mud, which has no definite 
 bottom, and are consequently obliged 
 to keep themselves in almost con- 
 stant motion, lest they should sink 
 too far, and become themselves cm- 
 bedded for the gratification of future 
 archa3ologists. Large water-boots, 
 sou-westers, aiid light spades should 
 be provided by the adventurous. 
 The Medway pottery was inferior to 
 that made at Caistor, in Northamp- 
 tonshire (Durobrivaj). Its texture 
 is, however, fine and hard ; and its 
 colour usually a blue-black, " which 
 was produced by baking it in the 
 smoke of vegetable substances in 
 smother-kilns." Some specimens of 
 a red ware are also found here. The 
 ornaments of both kinds are simple, 
 consisting of lines and raised points, 
 
 though their arrangements are very 
 graceful and diversified. The forms 
 are always good. The extent of the 
 works is remarkable. Layers of 
 pottery have been found at almost 
 every point between Gillingham and 
 the Isle of Sheppey,— nearly 7 m. 
 Inland the site extends at least 3 m. 
 The fragments are, no doubt, " the 
 refuse of the kilns of the potters, 
 who, it seems, gradually moved along 
 in the course of years, or rather of 
 ages, using up the clay, and throwing 
 their refuse — the broken and da- 
 maged pottery — on the land which 
 they had exhausted, until tliis ex- 
 tensive tract of country became 
 covered with it." The field of 
 broken pottery thus left by the 
 Eomans was gradually covered by 
 alluvial soil, which the tide has 
 again scooped into creeks, thus 
 bringing the fragments to light. 
 
 In the Halstow marshes are indi- 
 cations of buildings, apparently 
 marking the site of a village inha- 
 bited by the potters and their mas- 
 ters or overseers. These are espe- 
 cially evident near Halstow Church, 
 where an embankment filled with 
 broken tiles and pottery has been 
 thrown up to protect the land from 
 the sea. The little Cliurch of Hal- 
 stow (]i,alig stoiv, the " holy i^lace," 
 or church. Sax.) has much Roman 
 masonry in its walls, and deserves 
 careful examination. It is possibly 
 of Saxon origin. 
 
 The high grounds behind the 
 marshes, stretching E. from Otter- 
 ham Creek, were the site of a Roman 
 cemetery belonging to tlie Halstow 
 settlement. " Sepulchral deposits 
 of urns and calcined bones are fre- 
 quently met with there, and in one 
 of them was found a large brass coin 
 of Antoninus Pius.' — Wright, ' Wan- 
 derings of an Antiquarij."} 
 
 At Hartlip, 5^ m. rt., considerable 
 remains of Roman baths, attached to 
 a villa, were laid open in 1848, the 
 existence of some part of which had 
 been already known. The tiles form-
 
 Kent, 
 
 Route 4. — Keycol Hill. — Sittinghourne. 
 
 g;j 
 
 ing the columns of the hypocaust 
 were deeply scored across, so as to 
 form small squares, apparently for 
 easy separation when such tiles were 
 required for constructing coarse tes- 
 selated pavements. These remains 
 are in a field called Loiver Dancfidd, 
 about 1 m. S.W. of Hartlip Church. 
 On their first discovery, about 1750, 
 many bushels of wheat, apparently 
 scorched by fire, were found in one 
 of the divisions. 
 
 Through a country of cherry- 
 gardens we reach 
 
 G^ m. Newington, a village with an 
 interestingDec. Church. iivass.Mary 
 Brook, 1600. A priory for nuns was 
 founded here soon after the Domes- 
 day survey : but the prioress havijig 
 been found strangled in her bed, the 
 nims were removed to Minster in 
 Sheppey. 
 
 On Keycol Hill, ] m. beyond New- 
 ington, a great quantity of Eomau 
 ru'ns of various forms have l>een 
 discovered, but without sepidchral 
 deposits. There are numerous lines 
 of eaithwork here, and in the woods 
 adjoining ; and it was at first con- 
 jectured that the place was the site 
 of a station. Of this, however, there 
 is no definite proof. IMr. Oldbuck 
 would have been pleased with 
 the speculation that makes Keycol 
 Caii CoUis, or, says Hasted gravely, 
 "Caius Julius Caesar's Hill," and Key 
 Street beyond "Caii Stratum." A 
 more probable trace of Rome is formd 
 in the sweet chesnut-trees which 
 aboimd in the woods here. They 
 are still more frequent in the ad- 
 joining parish of INIilton ; and many 
 venerable trees are known as the 
 boundary marks of parishes and 
 manors, a proof of their extreme 
 antiquity. Pennant remarks that 
 Kent is the only county in which 
 they arc found growing in an a^i- 
 parently wild state. They are of 
 course not indigenous, and were 
 probably introduced, like the earliest 
 cherries, by the successors of " Caius 
 Julius." 
 
 At Sulton Barn in the parish of 
 Borden, 8^ m., foundations of two 
 Roman buildings and many coins 
 were discovered in 184G. The Church 
 of Borden has a Norm. Tower, and 
 W. door ; and within the present 
 belfry is a perfect and elaborately 
 ornamented Norm, arch, which ought 
 to be thrown open to the nave, show- 
 ing the W. window. As usual through- 
 out this district, Eonian bricks are 
 found in the walls. 
 
 [The E. E. Chm-ch of Stockbury, 
 1 m. iS. of Borden, deserves a visit, 
 for the sake of the excellent carvings 
 in its chancel. (See them figiu-ed in 
 ' Gloss, of Archit.') There are some 
 good Iragments of 13th cent, glass 
 in the lancet windows.] 
 
 Sitthighourne, 10 m. {Inns: The 
 Bull, The Lion), seems to have 
 been a usual halting-i^lace for pil- 
 grims to Canterbm-y ; and sunch-y 
 monarchs, following their examijle, 
 have "dined" here in their way to 
 or from London. Here Henry V. 
 was sumptuously entertained at the 
 "Eed Lion" on his return to Eng- 
 land after Agincourt, where, says a 
 local tradition, the cost of the en- 
 tertainment, stately as it was, was 
 9s. 9f?. The two great hotels here, 
 the Rose and the George, the latter 
 of which was the favourite resting- 
 place of both George I. and II. on 
 their way to Hanover, have shared 
 the fate of most of their brethren, 
 and are now converted into shops. 
 
 Of the Church a very small portion 
 is E. E. The rest was rebuilt in 
 1762. In the N. wall of the chancel 
 is a monument of very imusual cha- 
 racter, temp. Edw. IV. It exhibits 
 the effigy of an imknown lady, in 
 grave-clothes, so arranged as to dis- 
 jday the neck and bosom. The left 
 breast is represented as swollen, the 
 right as wasted away. Across the 
 chest lies an infant, also in grave- 
 clothes. There is a tradition that 
 iiie lady died in childbed at Bayford 
 Castle, but who she was is unknown. 
 Theobald, the editor of Shakspeare,
 
 64 
 
 Route 4. — Milton. — Bay font Castle. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 whose opposition to Pope procured \ 
 him a place iu tlie first edition of \ 
 the Duuciad, subscqiiently occiipied 
 by Gibber, was born liere toward tlie 
 end of the 17 th cent. 
 
 1 m. N. of Sittingbourne, and over- 
 lianging the Swale marslies, lies 
 
 Milton, famous for its oysters, 
 wliich no doubt shared in Eoman 
 favour witli those " Rutupino edita 
 fundo " (see Rte. 9), or ratlier, per- 
 haps, ranked themselves as Eutu- 
 pians. The fisheries were granted by 
 King John to the Abbot of Faver- 
 sham, in whose hands they remained 
 until the dissolution. They have 
 been dredged from the earliest times 
 by a company of fishermen, ruled 
 like those of Faversham by certain 
 ancient customs and bye-laws. " Mil- 
 ton natives " bear the bell, or more 
 properly are the pearls, among British 
 oysters ; and since the discovery of 
 the great sea-beds off t^horeham 
 their value has materially increased, 
 owing to the comparative coai-seness 
 and more plentiful sujjply of the 
 latter. The cbedgers work under 
 farmers of the fisheries, the prin- 
 cipal of whom here is Mr. Alston, 
 the possessor of very extensive beds 
 between Sheerness and Whitstaple, 
 and no doubt the greatest " oyster- 
 fisher" iu the world. (See TVh't- 
 staple, Rte. 8.) A large fleet of 
 smacks and hoys is employed in 
 conveying the produce of the Mil- 
 ton fi.sheries to London. The King's 
 town of Milton, as it was called, 
 was an ancient royal villa ; and 
 there was a tradition that Scxbm-ga, 
 the sainted prioress of Minster 
 In Sheppey, died in the chiuch- 
 porch here, circ. 680. Of the pre- 
 sent Church, the N. aisle is Norm., 
 the rest E. E. and Dec. Pieces of 
 Roman brick are scattered tlirough 
 the walls; and "in the E. wall is 
 one fragment with Roman red mortar 
 adhering to it " (Hussey). Remark 
 also the herring-bone masonry of the 
 N. wall. In tlie S. chancel arc 3 
 paving tiles with coloured patterns, 
 
 which seem either Venetian or Moor- 
 ish. Brass: a knight, temp. Edw.IV. 
 In the vesti-y are 2 other figures from 
 the same tomb. 
 
 On Kemsley Down, in the marshes 
 below Milton, is an earthwork about 
 100 ft. square, with a broad fosse and 
 single vallum, known as Castle Rough. 
 There are traces of a raised causeway 
 leading from it to the mouth of the 
 creek. This has been fixed upon, 
 and rightly in all probability, as the 
 fortress thrown up by Hasten the 
 Dane when he landed here in 892 
 {Asser: "Hastengus fecit sibi firmis- 
 simum oppidum apud Middeltu- 
 nam"). 
 
 Bayford Castle, near Sittingbom-ne, 
 about 1 mile distant from Castle 
 Rough, is said to have been built by 
 King Alfred as a counter fortress to 
 Castle Rough. The moat and a 
 fragment of wall remain. The castle 
 was the residence of Nottinghams, 
 Cheneys, and Lovelaces, until the 
 end of the IGtli cent., when it sank 
 into a farm-house. 
 
 [The Church of Tunstall (2 m. S. 
 of Sittingbourne) has E. E. and 
 Dec. portions. In it are elabo- 
 rate monuments for Sir James Cro- 
 mer (1613) and Sir Edward Hales 
 (1654). Adjoining the village is 
 Gore Court ; and about 2 m. S. 
 Woodstock Park (Ed. Twopenny, 
 Esq.). Bredgar, among the chalk 
 hills 2 m. further, has a Perp. ch. 
 with a curious Norm, doorway in- 
 serted under the tower ; there are 
 Roman bricks in the wall. Brass: 
 Thos. Goly, Custos of the College of 
 the Holy Trinity, Bredgar, 1508. 
 This chantry, or " small college, for 
 a chaplain and two scholar clerks," 
 was founded temp. Rich. II. by a 
 rector of Bredgar. A house near the 
 ch. is still known as the " Chantry 
 House. 'J 
 
 Between Sittingbourne and Bap- 
 child occurs a good view of the Isle 
 of Sheppey, the Cliffs (N.) and 
 Minster Church being visible. There 
 is a broad road from Sittingbourne
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 4. — Tong Castle. — Bapchild. 
 
 65 
 
 to Slieerness through the marshes, 
 crossing the Swale by a ferrj' ; and 
 a railway is in progress (1857), whicli 
 takes nearly the same com'se. The 
 island is, however, easily reached 
 from Chatham. (See lite. 3.) 
 
 Immediately before entering Bap- 
 child the mound of Tong Castle is 
 visible N. of the road. It covers 
 about half an acre, and is siUTOunded 
 by a broad moat, on which is a mill 
 of some antiquitj'. The ancient 
 legend of Carthage — "facti de no- 
 mine Byrsam, Tamino quantum pos- 
 sent circumdare tergo " — foirnd in 
 many different parts of the world, 
 has also been located here. (See, post, 
 a very curious version of the story 
 connected with Tichbom-ne, Hants.) 
 Hengist, after the first battle in which 
 he assisted Vortigern, is said to have 
 requested from the British chief as 
 much land as an ox-hide could en- 
 compass. This was readily granted, 
 and the hide, being cut into small 
 strips, was made to encircle the 
 ground on which Tong or Thong 
 Castle was then erected. Very re- 
 markably, this old Saxon legend has 
 been carried back to the East, 
 whence in all probabilityit firstcame. 
 The Hindoos declare that the de- 
 scendants of Hengist obtained pos- 
 session of Calcutta by a precisely 
 similar stratagem. 
 
 The site of Tong Castle, close to 
 the Watling Street on one side, and 
 to the Swale, then the usual ship 
 passage, on the other, was an ad- 
 vantageous one ; and the moimd 
 may very possibly have been an 
 important station with the earlier 
 Saxon colonists. (Comp. mounds in 
 E. Kent, as at Coldrcd and Wodnes- 
 borough.) The success thus gained 
 was according to the fm-ther tradi- 
 tion rapidly followed up. It was in 
 Tong Castle that the fair-haired 
 Roweua " drank had' to King Vor- 
 tigeni, and so fascinated him that he 
 resigned the entire kingdom of Kent 
 in favour of Hengist ; and here a few 
 years later took place the massacre 
 
 of the Britons by the Saxons at a 
 feast — a stoiy also borrowed from 
 the older stores of Teutonic tradi- 
 tion. The narrator of the whole is 
 Geoffrey of Monmouth, a proof at 
 least that Saxon trachtions had early 
 clustered about Tong Castle. 
 
 A large cutlass sword, with a buck- 
 horn handle, is said by Hasted to have 
 been found within tlie site. A castle 
 of Tong is mentioned after the 
 Conipxest, when it was given to Bp. 
 Odo, and later, temp. Rich. II., when 
 it was in the hands of Edmund Mor- 
 timer Earl of March. There are still 
 some fragments of masonry about 
 the mound. The Church of Tong- 
 is partly Norm. 
 
 Tong lies in the heart of the 
 stronghold of ague on either side of 
 the Swale. The soil is throughout 
 very rich ; but this is the Kentish 
 region of " wealth without health." 
 The local proverb runs — 
 
 " He that will not live long. 
 Let him dwell at Murston, Tenham, or 
 Tong." 
 
 Bapchild, 11 m., is probably the 
 Bachancild where, in 694, Wihtred 
 King of Kent held his great council 
 " to considt about repairing the 
 churches of God wliich were in 
 Kent." The ch., dedicated to S. 
 Lawrence, is principally Norm. : but 
 many later windows have been in- 
 serted. It deserves, however, care- 
 ful examination. The W. end 
 seems to have had many round- 
 headed windows, 2 of which remain. 
 (Comp. Daviiigton, post.) Along the 
 N. wall of the chancel runs an E. E. 
 arcade, with detached pilasters. The 
 Perp. screen should be noticed, and 
 the honwork of the door, which is 
 ancient. 
 
 The Chiu-ch of Bapchild belonged 
 to the Crown until Richard I., and 
 was given by John to Chichester 
 Cathedral, to which it is still at- 
 tached. There was a small oratory 
 here, near the wayside, N. of tho 
 ch., at wliich pUgrims to Canterbiuy
 
 GG 
 
 Route 4. — Tenham. — Faversham. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 halted to perform their devotions. 
 No remains exist. 
 
 Adjoining tlie village is Bapcldld 
 Court, William Gascoigne, Esq. 
 
 [The Church oiRodmersham, Ih m. 
 S. of Bapchild, is of various dates, 
 the chancel being apparently Norm. 
 There are some fragments of .stained 
 glass. The ch. belonged to the 
 knights of St. John, to Avhom it was 
 given by Henry II. ; and the 4 
 sedilia of wood in the chancel may 
 perhaps have been appropriated by 
 them. These seats are canopied, 
 and the cai-ved screen at the back 
 .should be noticed.] 
 
 The well-known fertility of the 
 county of Kent is ajiparent in the 
 variety and richness of the crops 
 throughout the siu-rounding country, 
 and extending ii-om here to Canter- 
 bury. 
 
 Tenham, which parish is entered 
 at the 43rd milestone, was, according 
 to Lam1)ar(l, the original cherry- 
 garden and apple-orchard of Kent. 
 The Abps. of Canterbury possessed 
 a vineyard here called the "New 
 Garden," which in the reign of 
 Henry III. was in great repute, and 
 during the vacancy of the see was 
 kept m order, like that at Northfleet, 
 by the ministers of the Crown 
 (Hudson Turner). Its former repu- 
 tation probably induced Eichard 
 Harris, fruiterer to Henry VIII., to 
 fix on Teynham for the establish- 
 ment of his " new orchards" — great 
 store of " pippin grafts" being pro- 
 cured by him from France, and 
 " cherry grafts' ' from the Low Coun- 
 tries. He planted about 105 acres, 
 from which subsequently much of 
 Kent was supplied ; and the reputa- 
 tion of the Tenham fruit-gardens was 
 considerable mitil the end of the 
 last century. The cherry had been 
 first brought into Britain by the 
 Homans. {Pliny, 1. xv. c. 25.) The 
 gardens here long afforded the maiir 
 supply to the London market, and 
 were a most valuable property until 
 the remission of duty on foreign 
 
 fruit, which enabled importers from 
 Germany and France to compete 
 with native produce. 
 
 [^DoddinfjtoH Churchy in the chalk 
 district, 4 m. S., is chiefly Norman, 
 with a Tr. Norm, chancel, and at the 
 E. end are 4 circular-headed win- 
 dows, 3 below and 1 above. Some 
 woodwork, which has been pauited, 
 remains. There is a second, or S. 
 chancel, which is E. E.] 
 
 85 m. beyond Tej'nham we reach 
 16 m. Favershani (Pop. 7000, in- 
 cluding Ospringe and Davington ; 
 Inn: The Ship) or Favresfeld ; a 
 royal "villa," which early rose into 
 importance from its situation at the 
 point where the Watling Street 
 touched the head of a navigable 
 creek ; and which in 930 was large 
 enough to entertain Athelstane and 
 his " witan." It owed its later 
 reputation to an abbey foimded here 
 by Stephen and Matilda (1147-49), 
 commonly known as St. Saviour's of 
 Faver.sham. A relic of the Holy 
 Cross sent by Godfrey of Bouillon to 
 Stephen was placed" in this abbey, 
 hence said to be founded "yn the 
 wor.ship of the Croys." Stephen, 
 his queen Matilda, and Eustace 
 their son, were biiried in the Abbey 
 Church, all during the lifetime of 
 the first abbot, Clarembald. The 
 monks were Cluniacs, of which or- 
 der Henry of Blois, Bp. of Win- 
 chester, the king's brother, was an 
 especial patron. The abbot sat in 
 parliament (as holding in chief) tiU 
 1325. The king, as founder, claimed, 
 after each abbots death, his ring, 
 his drinking cup, liis palfrey, and his 
 kennel of hounds. At the di.ssolu- 
 tion the Abbey was granted to Sir 
 Thomas Cheney, who afterwalds sold 
 it to Thomas" Arden, of tragical 
 memory. It stood at the end of the 
 town, "where the " Abbey Farm " 
 still preserves its name. The great 
 orchard in front is covered with in- 
 terlacing foundations ; but nothing 
 remains above ground except a 
 massive boundary wall on one side.
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 4. — Faversham. 
 
 67 
 
 Close by are some enormous walnuts 
 not unworthy of overshadowing the 
 Cluniac brethren, contemplative or 
 post-prandial. The Gatehouses and 
 Oratory described by Ijcwis (1727) 
 have quite disaj)peared. The existing 
 parish cJi. (dedicated to our Lady of 
 Charity) is thought to have also 
 served as that of the Abbey. It 
 may have been so used on great 
 festivals, but must always have 
 been at some distance from the rest 
 of the conventual buildings. It 
 has been entirely remodelled at 
 different times, and is now in coiirsc 
 of careful restoration. The whole 
 of the windows have been replaced 
 within the last 4 years. The ch. it- 
 self is E.E., of great size and beauty, 
 the transepts being divided into 3 
 aisles, by 2 rows of octangular pillars. 
 The nave in its present state is the 
 vilest Georgian Corinthian, ceiled 
 and pewed. The curious W. tower 
 dates about 1800. The original 
 E. E. arch may be traced within the 
 Tower, rt. of wliich is an ancient 
 room called the Gaol. The beau- 
 tiful modern font of alabaster and ser- 
 pentine deserves notice. In the W. 
 wall of N. travsept is a singular cross- 
 .shaped opening, which can hardly 
 have seiTed as a hagioscope. In the 
 same transept, on the first octangular 
 pillar E., some E. E. paintings have 
 recently been laid open of the highest 
 interest. Among them are the Na- 
 tivity ; the Virgin sitting crowned 
 with the Child ; the Salutation of 
 Mary and Elizalx'th ; the Angels 
 appearing to the Shepherds (their 
 dog is fastened by a string to one of 
 the Shepherel s hands, and barks at 
 the Angel) ; the Crucifixion ; and 
 the women visiting the Sepulchre. 
 The great use of red and green (as 
 well as the costume) indicates the 
 date, which can be very little later 
 than that of the church. In the 
 chancel, which is of unusual breadth, 
 are 12 Miserere stalls, on one of 
 which is carved a fox carrying off 
 3 hens, a design which must have 
 
 greatly edified the Cluniac brother 
 to whose lot it fell. N. is a richly 
 canopied Peip. altar-tomb, the occu- 
 pant unknown. S., piscina, and 
 8 sedilia with detached pilasters. 
 The E. window is by Willement. 
 Tlie vestry contains a rich church 
 chest, with Dec. carving. On the 
 S. wall of chancel is a memorial 
 commemorating " the change of 
 nature in its last tour" of one 
 Stejihen Bax ; and l>elow, the brass 
 of William Thornbury, vicar of 
 Faversham, d. 1448. The inscrip- 
 tion " Credo in Sanct. Eccles. Cath." 
 is said to have been then used to in- 
 dicate the infalliV)ility of the clergy 
 in opposition to the Lollards, the 
 preposition being properly applied 
 only to the clauses relating directly to 
 the' Deity (Lewis' Life of Pococke). 
 At the end of the S. aisle is a tomb 
 with Dec. canopy, called King 
 Stephen's — how truly is quite mi- 
 certain. Stowe asserts that after the 
 dissolution the king's body was 
 thrown into the river for the sake of 
 the lead about it. On the floor are 
 the remains of a fine brass, com- 
 memorathig some " probus et dignus 
 vir '' whose name has i^erished, and a 
 perfect one of Henry Hatche and 
 his wife (1500), great benefactors to 
 the town. Above is the mural monu- 
 ment of Thomas Mendfield, " a pillar 
 of the famous ports,' who kneels in 
 a richly sleeved gown of office. 
 Over the S. porch is a parvise 
 chamber, in which, as in the watch- 
 ing chamber of Canterburj' Cathe- 
 dral, there is a tradition that a king 
 was once confined. The whole of 
 the exterior of the chiu-ch, as well 
 as the interior of the chancel and 
 transepts, have been recently re- 
 stored by Mr. G. G. Scott, with his 
 usual taste and ability. 
 
 In the church was formerly a 
 chapel of St. Thomas of Canterl)ury, 
 and altars (greatly honoured) of St. 
 Erasmus and SS. Crispin and Cris- 
 pina. "No one died who had anj-thing 
 to leave without giving something
 
 68 
 
 Route 4. — Favcrsham. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 to St. Erasmus' light ;" and the other 
 two were the special patrons of 
 Favershain. During the persecution 
 under Maximin they " fled from 
 Kome into Great Britain, and came 
 and dwelt at Faversham, where they 
 learned to make shoes for a liveli- 
 hood, and followed that trade for 
 some time at a house in Preston 
 Street, near the Crosse well, now the 
 sign of the Swan." Long after the 
 Keformation foreigners " of that 
 gentle calling " were in the habit of 
 making" considerable visits in pil- 
 grimage"' to tliis house. — Lmn's. 
 (The Swan still exists, but " quantum 
 mutatus. ") Another legend pointed 
 out a heap of stones at the shore at 
 Stone Point, near Lydd, as the grave 
 of Crispin and Crispina, wlio were 
 said to have been shipwTecked there. 
 (See Kte. 13.) They are unnoticed 
 in tlie ' Aurea Legenda ' of Jacques 
 de Voraiguc, the great storehouse of 
 similar traditions. After Agincom-t 
 the festival of St. Crispin was the 
 . chief holiday of the town. 
 
 " This story shall the good man te;ich las son ; 
 And Crispin Ciispian shall ne'er go by 
 From this day to the ending of the world, 
 But we in it shall be remembered." 
 
 Across the elmrchyard a gate 
 opens to the grammar school, origin- 
 ally founded in 15:27 for novices in 
 the abbey. After the dissolution tlie 
 estates appropriated to this scliool 
 fell into the king's hands, and were 
 regranted by E]izal)eth to the pre- 
 sent foundation. The house was 
 built, 1577, at the town's expense. 
 A small library is attached. 
 
 Beyond the school, a low arched 
 door, at the wall corner, is pointed 
 out as that through which the body 
 of "Ardeu of Faversham" was car- 
 ried by his murderers to be laid in 
 the field adjoining, then called the 
 "Ambry Croft." His house is tliat 
 seen aljove tlie wall ; a long steep- 
 roofed building, which had belonged 
 to the abljcy, and l)ecame the pro- 
 perty of " Master Arden," after his 
 
 purchase of the site. Religious em- 
 blems, relics of the monks, were to 
 be seen in some of the windows in 
 Pemianfs time ; and in those of 
 "the great room" were the arms 
 of Sir Edw. North, father-in-law of 
 Alice Arden. Notlnng of this now 
 remains, and the disposition of the 
 rooms has been altered. For the 
 fidl story of the nnuxler, which pro- 
 duced a tragedy long held to be 
 Shakspcare's,- and which induced 
 Spelman to allot a conspicuous place 
 to Master Arden in his 'History of 
 Sacrilege,' the reader must be re- 
 ferred to HoHnshed, who, " for the 
 horriblenesse thereof," inserted it in 
 his Chronicles. . . . Mistress Alice, 
 " young, tall, and well-favoured of 
 shape and countenance," had " fallen 
 in familiaritie " with one Mosbye, a 
 " black swart man," and an old ser- 
 vant of her father-in-law's ; and at 
 last conspired with him to kill her 
 husband, taking as helpmates " one 
 Green of Faversham '" and " Black 
 Will, a terrible cruel rufKan," who 
 had acquired much evil experience 
 during the French wars. After 
 watching Master Arden in Tjondou, 
 " walking in Poule's," and after 
 twice lying in wait for him to no 
 pm-pose, once on Rainham Down, 
 and again in the " broomye-close " 
 between Faversham and the Shep- 
 pey ferry, they at last arranged to 
 kill him in liis own house during 
 St. Valentine's fair, which was close 
 at hand. Black Will was accordingly 
 hidden in a closet at the end of 
 Arden's parlorn-, Feb. 15, " being 
 Sunday ;" and when Arden came in 
 at supper-time, he " sat down to play 
 a game at the tables " with Mosbye, 
 who had his face toward the place 
 where Black Will stood, whilst Green 
 " stood at hismaister's back holding 
 a candell in his hand, to shaddowe 
 Black Will wlien he .should come 
 out." At a signal during the game 
 BlackWill" slept forth and cast a 
 towell round Arden's neck, nearly 
 strangling liim. Mosbve then com-
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 4. — Faversham. 
 
 69 
 
 pleted the work ; and, finally, IMistress 
 Alice herself came into the coimtry 
 house, where the body was laid, and 
 " with a knife gave him 7 or 8 pricks 
 into the breast." Then she sent for 
 certain Londoners who chanced to 
 be in the town, and after supper they 
 "danced and played on the virgi- 
 nals and were merrie." After the 
 guests were gone the body was car- 
 ried out by the door already named, 
 into the Ambry Croft, where " they 
 laid him on his back in liis night- 
 gown, with his slippers on." Then 
 Alice alarmed the town, and " the 
 maj^or and others came to search 
 for her husband. He was found in 
 the Croft ; but " a long rushe or 
 two " from the parlour floor stuck 
 between one of his slippers and his 
 foot, and they " espied certajnie 
 footsteppes by reason of thesnowe," 
 which began to fall just as they were 
 carrying him out. IMistress Arden 
 was at once accused ; and, " herself 
 l^eholding her husband's bloud, said, 
 'Oh the' bloud of God help! for 
 this bloud have I shed !' " Mosbye 
 was taken in bed, and afterwards 
 hung at Smithfield, as was Green 
 at Faversham. Mistress Alice was 
 burned at Canterbury. Black Will 
 was taken some years after, and 
 " brent on a scaffolde at Flushing." 
 It v>-as said that no grass would grow 
 on the field where Arden's body 
 iiad lain, " wliich field he liadde, as 
 some have reported, cruelly taken 
 from a widow woman, who had 
 cursed him most bitterly, even to 
 liis face . . . wishing that all the 
 world might wonder on him." — Ho- 
 Jinshed. Lewis thought the grass 
 was kept bare by art, as was done 
 by spots on the Castle Glreen at 
 Colchester, where Sir Charles Lucas 
 and Sir G. Lisle fell when shot. 
 The whole story is a strange and 
 striking illustration of the condition 
 of society at this most disjointed 
 time. Compare the Stourhead mm-- 
 der, nearly contemp. {Stnjpe's Me- 
 morials.) 
 
 Some extensive and expensive 
 natidhal schools, the efiect of which, 
 though of gTeat pretension, is far 
 from satisfactoiy, have lately been 
 erected in Faversham. Of more in- 
 terest are some wooden and par- 
 geted houses in the town, esijecially 
 two in East Street, near the principal 
 Inn. Pennant mentions the " wain- 
 scote of a house near the abbey-gate, 
 where were carved profiles of Ste- 
 phen and Matilda, and a figure of 
 Stephen in a boat drawn by a swan." 
 For these 'the visitor may perhaj^s 
 search with better success than om-- 
 selves. 
 
 Faversham has entertained sundry 
 great personages in their way to and 
 from Canterbury. In 1519, "spiced 
 brede, wine, and here," for the king 
 and queen, cost the to^Ti 1/. Os. 5^d. ; 
 " wine and capons to my lord cardi- 
 nall, 18s. 9d." It was here that 
 James II. was detained, after his at- 
 tempt to escape by way of Shecrness. 
 {Macaidiaj, ii. 569.) He had been 
 "rudely pushed and pulled about by 
 the boatmen of the coast." " His 
 money and watch were taken from 
 him, but his diamonds escaped, being 
 taken for bits of glass." (Maeatday). 
 This usage he never forgave ; and 
 the amnesty offered in the fourth 
 year of his exile was accompanied 
 by a long list of exceptions, " in 
 which the poor fishermen who had 
 searched his pockets rudely, ap- 
 peared side by side with Churchill 
 and Danby." (574.) 
 
 There is a very ancient guild of 
 oyster-fishers comiected witli the 
 hundred of Faversham, wliich has a 
 custom " that none shall receive free- 
 dom of the guild who are not married 
 men." (For the fisheries themselves 
 see Etc. 8). The growth of madder 
 was first introduced here and at 
 Dartford, in 1660, by one M. Crispe. 
 The powder-mills, now at some dis- 
 tance, but formerly adjoining Faver- 
 sham, are among the most important 
 in the kingdom. In the neighljour- 
 hood are some curious chalk caverns,
 
 JO 
 
 liotite 4. — Davliiijton. — Ospringe. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 or pits, with columns. These exca- 
 vations were, until the last few ^ars, 
 constantly used by the gipsy ladies 
 as a rethement during their most 
 " interesting " periods ; and regular- 
 nurses were always resident in them. 
 Hegdale pit is the largest. Camden 
 thought them (as they probably are) 
 British excavations for chalk dress- 
 ing. (Compare the pits at Dartford 
 and Crayford, Etc. 2 ; and at E. Til- 
 bury, Ete. 1.) 
 
 About 2 m. from Faversham, be- 
 yond the canal, is JJuvingion village 
 and priory, the site most probably of 
 the Duroievum of Antonine's Itine- 
 rary. Many Eoman relics have been 
 found here ; and recently a very 
 curious medijeval head-covering, the 
 ancient " cap of fence," formed of 
 octagonal j^lates of iron, quilted 
 neatly between two layers of coarse 
 canvas. (See Trans, of Arclixol. In- 
 stitute.) Tlie Priory (now the re- 
 sidence of Thomas Willement, Esq., 
 F.S.A.) was Benedictine, founded 
 by Fulke de Neweuham in 1153, 
 and called, from the smallness of the 
 estate, the house of the " poor nuns 
 of Davington." The church, dedi- 
 cated to St. Mary Magdalene, has 
 been most carefully repaired and 
 decorated by Mr. Willement, to whom 
 the parishioners are indebted for the 
 restoration of divine service. It seems 
 to indicate a much earlier date than 
 the foundation of tlie Priory. The 
 E. window and low S. aisle are later 
 E. E. additions. The W. end, witli 
 its 5 remarkable round-headed win- 
 dows, and the plain circidar arches 
 witli broad sofletes within, may pos- 
 sibly bo anterior to tlie Conquest. 
 The registers of this clim-ch, which 
 have been continued with gTeat care, 
 commence at the early date of the 
 sixth year of Edward VI. ; and al- 
 though a donative, it is privileged to 
 (execute all the rights of a parochial 
 church. The house itself is a por- 
 tion of the ancient priorj*. The 
 Norm, arch, wliich formerlj^ con- 
 nected the cloisters with the refec- 
 
 tory, remains ; together with the 
 western side of the cloisters them- 
 selves, and the entrance-hall in gi-eat 
 part : all of the time of Edw. I. The 
 cloister still has its heavily-moulded 
 ceiling of chestnut Avood, temp. Edw. 
 III. Great alterations were made in 
 the apartments aboixt the time of 
 Elizabeth. 
 
 Closely adjoining Faversham, S., 
 is Preston, the church of which an- 
 ciently belonged to Christ Church, 
 Canterbmy. It stands wdl, near the 
 Loudon Eoad, and, although de- 
 prived of its old tower, is very pic- 
 tm-esque. The. chancel, with single 
 side-laiicets, is interesting, though 
 the eliect has been much damaged 
 by an E. window of discordant 
 character, lately inserted. On the 
 S. side are sedilia, much decorated. 
 The N. is occui^ied by a large and 
 elaborate monument, with effigy, for 
 Eoger Boyle, tather of the first Earl 
 of Cork, and grandfather of the good 
 and great philosopher. Its present 
 dilapidated condition reflects much 
 discredit on the family whose an- 
 cestor it commemorates ; and its 
 entire ruin will no doubt be accele- 
 rated by the recent removal of its 
 iron giiard-rails. The nave is re- 
 markable for the arrangement of the 
 pews, from which the pulpit, placed 
 in the centre of the N. wall, is the 
 great point of observation. 
 
 At Ospringe (1 m. S.) was a Mai- 
 son Dieu, or hospital, foimded by 
 Henry II. There was a " Camera 
 Eegis" in it for the king's nsewheii 
 he went to France via Dover. King 
 John's Itinerary shows him frequently 
 at Ospringe. The hospital was in the 
 liauds of the Templars. A window 
 or two alone remain. When the E. 
 Kent Eailway is completed one of 
 the most beautiful views on the line 
 will present itself here, on emerging 
 from the cutting through Beacon 
 Hill, showing, on the left hand, the 
 Bysing Wooils, the German Ocean, 
 Davington Priory and Churcb, Fa- 
 versham Chuix-h and town, and, be-
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 4. — The Blean. 
 
 71 
 
 yond, the steep hills covered with 
 the extensive woods of the Blean. 
 
 About 2 ni. S. of Ospringe is 
 the large Perp. Church of Skeldioich. 
 Brass: Sir Richard Attelese and his 
 wife Dionisia, 1394 (very good). In 
 the neighbourhood is Lees Court 
 (Lord Sondes). 
 
 Proceeding towards Canterbury, 
 the road passes 1. (I85 m.), Nash 
 Court, the seat of the Hawkins 
 family since the reign of Edw. III. 
 5 m. further it enters the village of 
 Boughton-under-Blean, Sii which point 
 the servant of Chaucer's rich canon, 
 the alchemist who could pave with 
 gold " all the road to Canterbvuy 
 town," overtook the company of 
 pilgi-uus. The church (E. E., with 
 Perj). additions) lies among low hills 
 about 1 m. S. [A walk across the 
 country to Chilham, by Selling, with 
 its E. E. church and fine old yews, 
 will afford some pleasant views of 
 the country, with distant glimpses 
 of sea, and the wooded hills of the 
 Blean as a foreground. The dis- 
 tance is about 5 m. The E. window 
 of Selling Chm-ch is early Dec., and 
 contains in its tive lower lights a 
 beautiful arrangement of stained- 
 glass, well worth notice. The cen- 
 tral compartment in each light has 
 a canopy with a figure iiuder it, 
 beneath wliich is a shield of arms, 
 in this order, counting from the 
 north : Clare, France, England (the 
 fom-th is wanting), and Warren. The 
 foiu'th is said to hav(; been Castile ; 
 and the glass dates from the end of 
 the 13th ccntiuy.] 
 
 At Bougliton commenced the an- 
 cient forest of the Blean (the mean- 
 ing of the name is uncertain), a tract 
 of wild countiy reaching nearly to 
 Canterbury, the character of wlaich 
 is indicated by the many names such 
 as Selling, Seldwicii, Selgrave (An- 
 glo-Saxon, sel -wood, covert), occur- 
 ring throughout it. Before and after 
 tlie Conquest the kings of England 
 made grants of large portions of it to 
 the neighbouring religious houses, 
 
 till i^early all was separated from the 
 Crown. Thus it gradually lost the 
 privileges of a forest, and was known 
 only as " The Blean." Wild boar 
 abounded in it as late as the Re- 
 formation (Twine de Reb. Alb.). 
 The rare yellow pine marten is still 
 occasionally found here. Much 
 chesnut is scattered through the 
 woods. On Shottenden Hill, rt. of 
 the road, in the Blean — a point 
 crowned with a dark clump of trees, 
 terminating a long wooded ridge, 
 and visible from all the high ground 
 in the neighbourhood — is a camp, 
 probably Roman. It has 4 irregular 
 sides, which follow the rounding of 
 the hill, and is worth visitnig for the 
 sake of the wide view over all this 
 part of Kent. A large deposit of 
 silver coins, of the dates of Charles 
 I. and XL, was found here a few 
 years since. [At the foot of Bough- 
 ton Hill a road 1. leads to Heme 
 Hill, in the churchyard of which 
 Courtenay, the Canterbury fanatic, 
 was buried ; and Graveney, an E.E. 
 ch. of some interest. The pro- 
 portions are unusually good. In the 
 S. aisle is the altar-tomb (Dec.) 
 " Roberti Dodde R. de Fevcrsham 
 filii ; " and in the N. aisle is the largo 
 and very fine brass of Sir John Mar- 
 tin, Chief Baron (d. 1436), and wife. 
 He wears his official robes with a 
 coif. In his hands is a heart, in- 
 scribed " IHU., Mcr." His lady 
 wears the horned head dress. The 
 salt marshes here stretch up toward 
 the steep hills of the Blean, of which 
 the outlines are striking.] Bough- 
 ton Hill rises beyond the village ; 
 and from the top the traveller jour- 
 neying E. should look back over 
 the road he has already passed. 
 This is one of the great views of 
 Kent, commanding a wide stretch of 
 varied and richly wooded country, 
 with an expanse of sea dotted with 
 Thames-bound sails and fishing- 
 boats. It wants, however, the great 
 historical interest of the Thanet 
 prospects.
 
 72 
 
 Route 4r. — DunhirJi. — Harhledoicn. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Here, 20 m., are the cli. ^and 
 schools of Thinkirl; huilt after the 
 *' Courtenay '" outbreak in 1S3S, when 
 it became evident how greatly they 
 were needed among the almost wild 
 people of the Bleau. The name of 
 " Dunkirk " was first given to the 
 village about a century since by a 
 set of squatters who took possession 
 of the groimd, then extra-parochial, 
 as of a " free port," from which no 
 one could dislodge them. The dis- 
 trict, including the greater part of 
 the forest, was afterwards erected 
 into a separate " vUle,"' called the 
 " Vdle of Dunkirk.' Xear the head 
 of the hUl a gate 1. leads into Bos- 
 senden Wood, in which (May, 183S) 
 " Sir William Courtenay, the Knight 
 of Malta," after his remarkable Can- 
 terbury pilgrimage and his release 
 from imprisonment for perjury, was 
 shot with 8 of his followers. These, 
 whom he had collected from all the 
 neighbotiring villages, regarded him 
 as a superhuman being, who was to 
 " restore them^ their own." His ex- 
 traordinary resemblance to the u^ual 
 Italian type of the Saviour no doubt 
 influenced his whole career, and ma- 
 terially assisted in procuring him fol- 
 lowr rs, with whose names the trees 
 in the wood are stUl marked. An 
 elaborate history of the " rise, pro- 
 gress, and death " of Sir Wilham — 
 who was in reality John Xichols 
 Tom, a Comishman, of Truro — was 
 printed in Canterbury in 1838. 
 
 A remarkable view of Canterbury 
 Cathedral, terminating a long stretch 
 of straight road, occurs shortly be- 
 yond " Courtenays Gate." It was 
 here that the pilgrims first caught 
 sight of the " golden angel " with 
 which the Great Towerwas anciently 
 crowned. 
 
 The country is stUl much broken 
 on either side, and the woods are 
 ftdl of picturesque hoUows and open- 
 ings. The true " Canterbury bell " 
 abounds in them. Everywhere occur 
 hop-groimds, with their drying-ovens 
 like the air-fans on the roofs oi 
 
 Egyptian houses. In the middle 
 growth the fields themselves re- 
 semble low oak-coppices : later, the 
 clusters and dark leaves have a 
 beauty of their own which many a 
 Khenish vineyard " combed along 
 the hills " might envy. 
 
 The Elizabethan house, rt. 26 ra., 
 is the residence of Sidney Cooper, 
 Esq., E.A. This is the artist "s native 
 ground. The 3 cows over the en- 
 trance are here doubly significant. 
 
 Harhledoicn, h m. beyond, is Chau- 
 cer's " little town,'' " which that 
 ycleped is Bob up and down. Under 
 the Blee in Canterbury way.'' The 
 fitness of the name is still fully evi- 
 dent, and the road is still " declivis 
 utrinque abrupto aggere," as when 
 described by Erasmus in his 'Peregri- 
 natio Eehgionis ergo.' The vUlage 
 grew up about the ancient lazar- 
 house, founded by Abp. Lanfranc 
 about 10^)6 for leprous men and 
 women, which, with its ivy-covered 
 ch. and pictm-esque gatehouse, is 
 seen on the 1. The hospital is de- 
 dicated to S. Nicholas, a favourite 
 saint of Lanfranc and the early Nor- 
 mans, probably from the immediate 
 patronage extended to them by 
 Pope Nicholas III. both in Cam- 
 pania and in England (see Milman, 
 ' Latin Christianity,' ui.). The site 
 was perhaps chosen from the reputed 
 virtues of a spring close below the 
 building, and now called the " Black 
 Prince's "U'ell,'' from a false tradition 
 that the water was sent to him 
 during his last illness in Canterbiuy, 
 where he did not die. The TV*, door 
 of the ch. is Norman, and with the 
 pillars and round arches on the N. 
 side of the nave probably forms part 
 of Lanfranc's original foundation. 
 The S. side of nave is E. E. All 
 this part is unused. The chofr is 
 filled with benches for service, which 
 is performed once a-week. The 
 hospital itself has been lately re- 
 built. In the haU is preserved a 
 chest containing a maple bowl, on 
 which is engraved Guy of "Warwick's
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 5. — Rochester to Maidstone. 
 
 fight with the ckagon, with a large ; 
 crystal inlaid in the centre ; and a 
 rude box, with a chain, and a sUt for ' 
 money in the lid. The hospital 
 formerly boasted of possessing the | 
 upper leather of Beckefs shoe, in j 
 which a crystal was set : and one of ' 
 the brethren, wheneyer pilgrims j 
 went by, appeared on the steps lead- ! 
 ing down into the road ixom the 
 doorway, to sprinkle them with 
 holy water and present the relic to 
 be kissed, after which a " nmn- 
 midus " was of course expected. So 
 Erasmus describes the scene in his 
 ' Peregrinatio,' when his companion 
 Colet's indignation got the better of 
 his prudence, and Erasmus bestowed 
 his coin in pity for the almsman's 
 injured feelings. Mr. Stanley sug- 
 gests that the crystal now in the 
 bowl is the same as that formerly 
 set in the shoe, and that in the box 
 with the slit " we can hardly doubt 
 the coin of Erasmus was deposited." 
 The original endowment was added 
 to by subsequent archbps. ; and the 
 establishment now consists of master, 
 15 brethren, and 15 sisters within 
 and the same number without the 
 walls. Opposite is the parish church 
 of Harbledown — of no interest. The 
 hospital was sometimes called " de 
 bosco de Blean,"' which came close up 
 to its walls : and on the edge of the 
 wood were the archbishop s gallows 
 (furcae archiep.) for his hundred of 
 Westgate. 
 
 A "^superb yiew of Canterbury 
 opens from Harbledown, at which 
 point the pilgrims began to assume 
 a more reyerend demeanour ; and 
 Chaucer's last story, told here, is a 
 sermon. Nothing can be more 
 striking than the great mass of the 
 cathedral, with the hooded roof of 
 the chapter-house lying monklike 
 beside it, lifting its deep shadows 
 against the clear blue of the midday 
 sky, or fliishcd all oyer with the rosy 
 glow of simset. Far in the distance 
 are yisible the white cliffs of Pegwell 
 Bay, luider which Augustine landed. 
 
 [Kent <£- Sussex.^ 
 
 From a field, rt., on the brow of the 
 hDl, is a good yiew of the winding 
 yalley of the Stour, through which 
 the railway passes : and 1. a path 
 through the churchyard leads across 
 to St. Thomas's HiU, and commands 
 throughout some of the best general 
 yiews of Canterbury. The Uttle 
 Becket Chapel, which gaye name to 
 St. Thomas's HiU, has found a far 
 worthier successor in the large School 
 for Orplian Sons of the Clergy, which 
 now crowns the highest point. The 
 building is Dec, from the designs of 
 P. Hardwicke, Esq., and the arrange- 
 ments throughout are admirable. 
 Institution and building are alike 
 worthy of the " 3Ietropolitical City," 
 and deserye a yisit as well for their 
 own sake as for the magnificent 
 yiew commanded from the site. 
 
 For Canterbury, 28 m., which the 
 road here enters through the suburb 
 of St. Dunstan's, see Rte. 8. 
 
 I ROUTE 5. 
 
 I ROCHESTER TO MAIDSTONE. 
 
 ! The railway, for the wliole dis- 
 I tance, follows tlie 1. bank of the 
 ; Medway. The old turnpike, which 
 keeps iiigh ground, and commands 
 some yery picturesque yiews, runs 
 on the opposite side of the riyer. 
 The best point on this road is imme- 
 diately aboye Aylesford, where a 
 j yeiy extensiye prospect toward the 
 W. is commanded. 
 
 Shortly after leaying the station at
 
 7-i 
 
 Route 5. — Lucldesdon. — Ilolhorough, 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Strood, the tourist slioiild look back 
 toward Roche.stCT, the view of which 
 from the railway is remarkable. 1., 
 the lines of Fort Clarence, now used 
 as a military asylum, climb the bauk 
 from the river. At 
 
 3 m., Cuxton, the IMedway passes 
 through the range of chalk hills, a 
 continuation of the North Downs, 
 extending above Eeigate and Dork- 
 ing into Hampshire. From this 
 point 1. the range crosses the county 
 of Kent diagonally — (it is sometimes 
 called " the back-bone of Kent") — 
 and unites itself with the broader 
 mass of chalk behind Folkstone. 
 
 The Medway is navigable for 
 barges nearly to Maidstone, and, by 
 the" aid of locks, as high as Tun- 
 bridge. The banks of the river, 
 from Rochester to Maidstone, were 
 thickly peopled dming the Roman 
 period; and "there is scarcely a 
 field throughout its whole extent in 
 which we may not find some ti'aces 
 of Roman buildings or of Roman 
 burial-places."— IFr /(;/</. As on the 
 line of the Watling-street, Roman 
 bricks and tiles are frequently found 
 here, worked into the walls of the 
 neighbouring churches. 
 
 The woods of Cobham are seen rt. 
 from the Cuxton station. [In the 
 Cliurch of Lucldesdon, among the 
 hills, 2 m. rt., is an altar-tomb, witli 
 a brass, temp. Hen. VI., probably 
 intended for Sir James Montacute, a 
 natm-al son of the great Earl of Salis- 
 bury, the "mirror of all martial 
 men," killed at the siege of Orleans. 
 The manor of Luddesdon was be- 
 queathed by the Earl to tliis James 
 Montacute.] 
 
 Close under the chalk hills, on 
 the opposite bank of the river, are 
 tlie chvu-ch and village of Woiddham. 
 The gi-eater part of the ch., including 
 tlie tower, with its projecting tm-ret, 
 characteristic of this part of Kent, is 
 late Perp., and was built by Stephen 
 Slegge, one of the cliief landowners 
 here, temp. Hen. VI. Farther down 
 the river are some remains of the 
 
 mansion of Starkeys, dating from the 
 reign of Henry VII., when it was 
 tlie residence of a family of the 
 same name. 
 
 The railway here enters the parisli 
 of Hcdling, the "mark" or settle- 
 ment of the Saxon Hallangas, and a 
 very ancient possession of the see of 
 Rochester, whose bishops had a pa- 
 lace here hj the river-side, of which, 
 however, only scanty fragments re- 
 main. Richard Archbishop of Can- 
 terbury, the successor of Becket, 
 died here in 1184. Bishop Hamo de 
 Hethe ri322) repaired and added to 
 the palace, but it was abandoned 
 before the Reformation, although the 
 parish still belongs to the see. The 
 few walls remaining are a short dis- 
 tance from the ch., seen 1. from the 
 rail. In the nave is a brass for 
 Sylvester, ■wife of William Dalyson, 
 1587. 
 
 At Longridge, in this parish, a 
 manor formerly belonging to tlie 
 Bavents, is a gi'oup of Elizabethan 
 chimneys worth notice. 
 
 The scenery above Hailing is 
 pleasant. The hill-sides toward 
 Luddesdon are covered wth wood, 
 through which runs the ancient 
 track called the "Pilgrims' Way," 
 passing toward Canterbury. Shortly 
 before reaching the next station, 
 
 6 m. Snodland, the rail passes the 
 hamlet of Holhorough (Holanbeorge, 
 the "biuy," with a cave or hollow). 
 The hill rising above this village 
 has apparently been foiiified, al- 
 though the traces have been nearly 
 obliterated. Close below the top of 
 the hill are the remains of a large 
 Roman barrow, opened by Mr. 
 Wright in 1844, when it proved to 
 have been raised over the ashes of a 
 funeral pile. Some long nails, pro- 
 bably used for fastening the fi-ame- 
 work on which the body was laid, 
 and part of a Roman fibula, were 
 found in the thin bed of wood-ashes 
 above which the barrow, probably 
 the monument of some person of 
 rank, had been piled to a height of
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 5. — Siiodland. — Aylesford. 
 
 75 
 
 20 ft. The view from this hill ex- 
 tends far and wide over the valley of 
 Maidstone — as the district is called 
 Ijdiig between the chalk ranges on 
 either side of the river, and the 
 wooded heights S., which extend 
 from IMaidstone above the Mailings 
 to Addington and Wrotham. 
 
 In the neiglibourhood is Hol- 
 horotigh House (W. Lee, Esq.). 
 
 The Church of Snodland, close to 
 the station, contains portions from 
 E. E. to Perp., and is interesting. 
 The windows are filled with modern 
 stained glass. There are some frag- 
 ments of ancient glass here of con- 
 siderable value as examples ; and 
 the modern glass by Mr. Nixon, 
 in the E. window of the chancel, 
 boldly innovating, exhibits fidl- 
 leng-th portraits of Protestant mar- 
 i}TS — Cranmer, Ridley, Latimer, and, 
 more daring still, of Anne Askew. 
 " As an example of a 19tli century 
 design, adapted to a late Perp. 
 window, the work is of gTcat merit." 
 — C. Winston. The side-lancets 
 (E. E.) of the chancel are unusually 
 nari'ow. Roman bricks and tiles are 
 worked up in the walls. 
 
 In Church-field, on the bank of the 
 river close below, are traces of a 
 Roman villa of considerable size. 
 These have never been thoroughly 
 examined. " Stone-grave Field " is 
 the name of an adjoining meadow. 
 
 Across the river, and also seen 
 from the rail, is the Chiucli of Bur- 
 ham, held by the Knights Hospital- 
 lers initil the dissolution. It has 
 some E. E. portions. Here is a 
 quarry belonging to W. H. Bensted, 
 Esq., which presents a good section 
 of the lower chalk, and is rich in 
 fossil remains, "rivaling in tliis re- 
 spect the quarries near Lewes, 
 Worthing, and Arundel, in Sussex." 
 — Mantell. An important fossil 
 turtle {Chelonia Benstedi), portions 
 of a Raphiosaurus, and some very 
 interesting relics of birds, apparently 
 a species of albatross, are among the 
 most remarkable discoveries made 
 
 here. All are due to tlie research of 
 Mr. Bensted himself, whose " Igua- 
 nodon quariy " in the Kentish rag 
 near Maidstone, where the first great 
 skeleton of the monster was dis- 
 covered, is classic groimd to the 
 geologist. 
 
 From the Burham lime-works, of 
 which the .smoking kilns are seen 
 along tlie river-side, great part of 
 tlie metropolitan builders are sup- 
 plied. 
 
 The valley of the Mcdway here 
 becomes of considerable width, but 
 is scarcely picturesque. The view, 
 however, as the line reaches 
 
 8 m. Aylesford, is very sti-iking. 
 The church-tower and red roofs of 
 the old town look out from cluster- 
 ing elm-trees of great size and 
 beauty; and the chalk hills, here 
 dotted with wood, apiiroach near 
 enough to form a good backgTOimd. 
 
 Aylesford (Pop.''2000), the JEgeles- 
 ford of the Sax. Chron., so named 
 perhaps from the Latin-Wel.sh 
 Eijhnjs, a clmrch — the "Church-ford"' 
 (" Aylesford church, which prolmbly 
 occupies the same site as the Welsh 
 Eglwys, is situated on the top of the 
 bank overhanging the village, and 
 its remarkalile position exj^lains the 
 propriety of the name " — Guest — 
 Kemble, however, considers the 
 name of this place, like Aylesbiu-y 
 and A3'leswortli, to be compounded 
 with that of Eigil or Egil, the an- 
 cient hero of the nortlieru races, to 
 whom, in his capacity as a miglity 
 archer, the wide-spread story of 
 William Tell properly belongs — Sax. 
 in Eng., i. 422) — is fixed on, in the 
 Sax. Chron., as the scene (a. 455) 
 of the first great battle between 
 Hengist and Vortigern, in which 
 Horsa fell. At Horsted (2 m. N.) 
 a heap of fiint-stones is pointed 
 out as his grave, which is, how- 
 ever, also shown at Horsham and 
 Horsted in Sussex. The archjeolo- 
 gist must decide for himself whether 
 he will accept the literal interpreta- 
 tion of the Sax. Chron. with Dr. 
 E 2
 
 76 
 
 lioute 5. — Aylesford — The Friary. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Guest {Proceedings of Areh;vol. In- 
 stitute, 1S49), or, with Kcmblc and 
 JMr. Wright, consider tlie story of tlie 
 l)attlc as a mtrc legend, founded on 
 tlie existence of a great British ceme- 
 tery on the hills above tlie town. 
 
 The town of Aylesford consists of 
 one long street on the rt. bank of 
 the Medway, here crossed by a bridge 
 of considerable anti(iuity. The cli., 
 at the end of the street, is princi- 
 pally Norman, and interesting. It 
 contains one hrass, John and Sarah 
 Cosynton, 1426, and some later monu- 
 ments for the Colepepers of Preston 
 Hall ; for the Sedleys and Kycauts, 
 who held the Friary here after the 
 dissolution ; and for Sir John Banks, 
 who succeeded them. 
 
 The Friary (Charles Whatman, 
 Esq.), the wall of which, skirting the 
 river, is seen from the station, was 
 ftmiided, in 1240, 1)y Richard Lord 
 ■Grey of Codnor, and disputes with 
 Nev/enden, on the borders of Sussex, 
 the honoiu' of having been the first 
 house of Carmelites established in 
 England. The arrival of these friars 
 was, says Bale, foretold by Simon 
 Stock, a Kentish hermit, who had 
 lived in a hollow tree from his 12th 
 year, but who then " quitted his oak, 
 and advanced forward to meet tliem, 
 as of whom, though he had no sight, 
 he had a vision before ; which is i^ro- 
 bably as true as that he was fed 7 
 years with manna in ]\Iount Carmid." 
 — Fuller. Stock was chosen general 
 of the Order, and died at Bordeaux 
 in 12G3. In 124.5 the first general 
 ehapter of the Order throughout 
 Europe was held here at Aylesford. 
 
 The site of the Friary, after the 
 dissolution, was granted to Sir 
 Thomas Wyatt of Allingion, who 
 lost it, witli his other lands, on his 
 rebellion in the first yiar of Queen 
 Mary. Elizabeth granted it to Jolui 
 Sedley, of Southfleet, whose de- 
 scendants continued to reside here 
 luitil the reign of Charles I., when 
 tl)e place was sold to Sir Peter Ey- 
 fuut. Aftei' passing througli many 
 
 other hands, it came to Heneage 
 Finch, created Earl of Aylesford in 
 1714, whose representatives still pos- 
 sess it. Su- Charles Sedley, the fa- 
 mous wit of Charles II. 's days, was 
 born here ; and diu-ing the Eycaut 
 domination. Sir Paul Rycaut, dis- 
 tinguished as an Eastern traveller 
 dm'ing the latter part of the 17th 
 centiuy. 
 
 Much of tlie ancient Friary was 
 retained in the existing dwelling- 
 house, although its successive occu- 
 piers have introduced their own 
 alterations and additions. Sir John 
 Banks, especially, toward the end 
 of the 17th century, changed and 
 interfered much with the ancient 
 arrangements. 
 
 Some remains of a Norman keep, 
 with walls about 10 ft. high, are said 
 to exist in the town of Aylesford, and 
 may be sought out by the antiquary. 
 In the High-street is a Iwspital for (J 
 pool', founded by John Sedley of the 
 Friars, temp. Eliz. The buildings 
 were not erected until after his 
 death. The late Perp. doorway 
 should be noticed. 
 
 A large stone-ware pottery is 
 worked a short ihstance E. of the 
 town, on tlieliank of the river, where 
 is also one of the large paper-mills 
 which are not less frequent on the 
 Medway than on the Darcnt. Their 
 tall chimneys, and the long lines of 
 smoking chalk-kilns under the hills, 
 are marked features of the river 
 valley. 
 
 On the hill-side, above tlie town, 
 is Cosentoii, now a farm-house, but 
 occupied by a family of the same 
 name from the reign of John to that 
 of Henry VIII. On this estate, to- 
 ward the coppices of Boxley Hill, 
 are some springs wdiich impart a 
 bright carmine colour to whatever is 
 dijiped in theiii. They are said not 
 to lie chalybeate. 
 
 The best view over the valley of 
 the Medway is obtained from this 
 hill-side, immediately above the cele- 
 brated cromlech called Kit's Coity
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 5. — K^s Coity House. 
 
 11 
 
 House. There is a tolerable country 
 Lt,r here (the Bell), by the side of 
 the Maidstone road. The cromlech 
 itself, by far the largest monument 
 of its class in this part of England, 
 forms a small chamber, open in 
 front, and consists of 4 blocks, 3 of 
 wliich are uprights, and the 4th laid 
 on them as a covering-stone. Of the 
 two side stones, one measmx's 7 ft. 
 by Ik, aiul is '2 ft. thick, the weight 
 about 8^ tons. Tiie other is 8 ft. 
 by 8j, weighing aliout 8 tons. The 
 capstone is. 12 ft. by 9;^, 2^ ft. thick, 
 and weighs about lO^ tons. The 
 .sandstone of which they consist be- 
 longs to the geological formation of 
 the district, large boulders of it oc- 
 curring frequently in the tertiary 
 drift or loam found on the top of the 
 chalk hills. 
 
 Like others of its class. Kit's Coity 
 House was no donl)t originally a 
 sei^ulchral monument, though the 
 legend which makes it the tomb of 
 the British chief Katigern, killed here 
 in a battle with the Saxons, must be 
 altogether discarded. {Kilt's Hill on 
 Hengstone Down, Cornwall, and 
 Kites House on Dartmoor, are names 
 also given to ancient tombs ; perhaps 
 from the Celtic likl, a hollow. Kit's 
 Coity may thus be ked-coit — the 
 tomb in the wood (Brit.), which 
 once spread over the hill-side, and 
 of which the venerable yews, which 
 the tovrrist should especially remark, 
 are relics.) It has been suggested 
 that the battle was traditionally fixed 
 here from ancient recollections con- 
 nected with the site, which recent 
 research has proved to be that of a 
 great British cemetery — the " Car- 
 nac " of Kent. The cromlech is the 
 centre of a gi"oup of moniunents, 
 which there is great reason to be- 
 lieve was connected by a long stone 
 avenue with another group in the 
 jiarish of Addingion (see post, Ex- 
 cursion from Maidstone), a distance 
 of 7 m. "Together they seem to 
 have formed the grand necropolis of 
 the Belgian settlers in this part of 
 
 the island." — Wright. The line of 
 connecting boulders has been traced 
 at intervals throughout the distance ; 
 and they even occur in the bed of 
 the river, where was an ancient ford. 
 Some of them are artificially placed ; 
 others are sandstone boulders in 
 their natural site. 
 
 Of the monuments about Kit's 
 Coity House, remark esjiecially the 
 Coiiufless Stones, a group in the 
 middle of a iield close below. 
 " They are apparently the remains 
 of one of those more complicated 
 cromlechs, consisting of more than 
 one sepulchral chamber with an 
 alley of apjiroach, which, in Brittany 
 and tlie Channel Islands, are popu- 
 larly known by the name of ' Fairies" 
 Alleys.' " The belief that these 
 stones cannot be counted is one con- 
 stantly found connected with similar 
 rt-mains. In the hollow l)elow is a 
 slab called the Coffin Stone. The brow 
 of the hill above the great cromlech 
 " is covered with smaller monuments 
 of the same descriijtion, consisting 
 generally of groups of stones buried 
 jiartly in the ridge of the hill, but 
 evidently forming, or having formed, 
 small sepulchral chambers. Each 
 group is generally sm-rouiukd by a 
 circle of stones. At the bottom of 
 the bank, near the road, a little dis- 
 tance behind Kit's Coity House, is a 
 hollow in the chalk, with the heads 
 of large stones of the same descriiJ- 
 tion projecting out at each side, as 
 though they had formed an avenue 
 leading to an entrance in the side of 
 the hill." — Wright. Many deposits 
 of British coins have been found in 
 this neighbourhood. A lioulder on 
 the top of the hill (now destroyed) 
 was formerly known as the "White 
 Hoi'se stone," and pointed out as that 
 on which Hengist was installed 
 " first king of Kent." 
 
 In addition to the cromlechs, a 
 series of veiy remarkable excavations, 
 also to all appearance sepulchral, 
 extends for a considerable distance 
 along the brow of the chalk hills on
 
 78 
 
 Routs 5. — Longsole. — Maidstone. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 either side of the river. These are 
 large circuhir shafts, descending like 
 wells, and opening at the bottom 
 into one or more chambers. (Comp. 
 the excavations at East Tilbury, 
 Ete. 1, and at Craijford and Dart- 
 ford, Ete. 2.) On the hill above 
 Kit's Coity House, however, and 
 within the limits of Aylesford Com- 
 mon, are a number of flat stones, 
 which cover the entrances to deep 
 pits filled to the top with flints. 
 These seem to be of the same cha- 
 racter with the open pits ; and it is 
 possible that the remains of the 
 British chieftain still rest in the 
 chamber below, the pit having been 
 filled up with flints after their dejjo- 
 sition. " Similar tombs have been 
 found in Etrmia and in the East." — 
 Wrlgld. A thorough examination 
 of these Kentish pits would perhajis 
 well reward the archaeologist. 
 
 On the hill side, close below, are 
 indications of a veiy extensive Ro- 
 man villa. Great quantities of broken 
 pottery have been found here ; and 
 Blr. AV right discovered traces of the 
 destruction of the building by fire — 
 the usual fate of most of the Roman 
 dwellings (Umng the anarchy that 
 followed the dei^artm-e of the legion- 
 aries. A Roman burial-ground ex- 
 isted a short distance N. of this villa. 
 
 Soon after leaving Aylesford, rt. of 
 the rail is seen Preston Hull (Edward 
 Ladd Bi-tts, Esq.), a handsome niu- 
 deru Tudor building, in digging the 
 foundations for wliich a quantity of 
 British silver coins were discovered. 
 The house stands in a park orna- 
 mented with fine old trees ; and is 
 surrounded by extensive gardens and 
 grounds well laid out and planted. 
 It contains a small but veiy good 
 collection of pictures and works of 
 art, among which is Madise's wrest- 
 ling scene from ' As you Like It,' 
 where a view of the park front of 
 Preston Hall occurs in the back- 
 ground. The original mansion here 
 was the residence of the Colcjiepers, 
 or Culpepers, from the reign of John 
 
 to the beginning of the last centmy. 
 A date on a barn of large propor- 
 tions, still remaining in excellent 
 preservation, which long passed for 
 1102, and occasioned much contro- 
 versy, is no doubt 1502. The barn, 
 wliich must have witnessed not a few 
 agricultural changes, now serves for 
 the modern appliances of steam-ma- 
 chinery, &c., required by an exten- 
 sive farm. 
 
 At Longsole, on the skirts of Mai- 
 ling Wood, rt., was an ancient free 
 chapel, now used as a barn, and 
 called the Hermitage. It is Dec. in 
 character. Nearly opposite, 1., the 
 walls of Allington Castle (see post) 
 are seen between the trees. Wood- 
 covered hills rise close on either 
 side of the river ; and through broad- 
 spreading gTeen meadows the train 
 reaches, 
 
 12 m., Maidstone, the principal 
 town of West Kent, and the assize 
 town for the whole county ; in 
 the most richly cultivated district 
 of which it is situated. (Pop. 20,000. 
 Inns : the Mitre, best ; the Bell ; the 
 Star ; the Queen's Head.) 
 
 Numerous Roman remains found 
 at Maidstone, esijccially in the parish 
 of St. Faith's, sufficiently prove the 
 existence of a station here, although 
 there may be some doubt whether 
 it represents, as has been usually siqj- 
 posed, the Vagiiiacx of the Antojiine 
 Itinerary. At a later period the town 
 seems to have been known as "ad 
 Madum," from the latinised name of 
 the river. Its Saxon name Med- 
 ircgslon became at last contracted to 
 Mcddestane and Maidstone. It is 
 still pronounced " Medston " in the 
 vernacular of the district. 
 
 The town stretches upwards from 
 the rt. bank of the river, and con- 
 sists of four principal sti'eets, unit- 
 ing a little beyond the Town-Hall. 
 Gabled houses aud decorated fronts 
 give it a somewhat pictm'esque cha- 
 racter ; and the large cavalry bar- 
 racks contribute colour and move- 
 ment. On Thiu-sdays (market-days)
 
 Kext, 
 
 Route 5. — Maidstone. 
 
 the toiu-ist may make bis observa- 
 tions on the " yeomen of Kent," wbo, 
 with their wives and daughters, as- 
 semble here in great numbers, and 
 whose substantial appointments in- 
 dicate very little decline from their 
 ancient prosperity : — 
 
 " A gentleiiKin of Wales, a knight of Cales, 
 And a laird of the North Countrie — 
 A yeoman of Kent, with his yearly rent, 
 Will buy them out all three ! " 
 
 Maidstone is the most important 
 grain - market in the comity, tlie 
 whole siuTOunding district being 
 i-ich in corn, and famous for its hop- 
 gTounds, which here form what is 
 called the " middle growth of Kent." 
 A large oil-mill, and extensive paper- 
 mills (the latter among the most 
 important in the kingdom), are esta- 
 blished here on the bank of the 
 Medway, the traffic on which is very 
 considerable, the average tonnage 
 annually passing AUington Lock, 
 below the town, being 120,000 tons, 
 and the tolls above 20,000?. A 
 great quantity of timber from the 
 Wealds of Kent and Sussex is barged 
 down the river for the use of the 
 doekj^ard at Chatham. 
 
 In s^nte of its antiquity, no very 
 important historical events are con- 
 nected with Maidstone. Sir Thomas 
 Wyatt of AUington, supported by 
 some of the priuciijal landowners of 
 this part of Kent, here commenced 
 his rebellion in 1.554 (1st of Queen 
 Mary). His proclamation, published 
 at Maidstone " on tlie market-day," 
 in the i)lace wlu're the Isleys and 
 others of his al)ettors were afterwards 
 beheaded, set forth that the " quarell 
 was taken in hand for the defence 
 of the realm from over-running by 
 .strangers " (the Spaniards — the 
 Queen's marriage was the apparent 
 cause of tlie rising). "Wheras in 
 veiy deed," says Proctor, the histo- 
 rian of the rebellion, "hys only and 
 very matter was the continuance of 
 lieresye;" for which end one of his 
 wealthy followers " offered to sell all 
 his spoons, and sup his j^ottage with 
 
 Ills mouth." In IG48 Fairfax, with 
 10,000 men, stormed the town, then 
 held by about 2000 royalist troops 
 under Sir John . Mayney. These 
 lined tlie streets and houses, and, 
 compelling Fairfax to gain every 
 street inch by inch, after a struggle 
 of live hoius retreated into the 
 chiu-ch, from which they maile terms 
 for their surrender. " It was," stiys 
 Clarendon, " a sharp encounter, very 
 bravely fought, with the general's 
 (Fau'fax's) whole streng-th ; and the 
 veteran soldiers confessed that they 
 had never met with the like desjje- 
 rate service during the war." Since 
 this period Maidstone has had no 
 history — a proof, in this case, of 
 prosperity and not of decline. 
 
 The celebrated engraver Woollet 
 was a native of Maidstone. 
 
 From a veiy early jieriod the 
 manor was attached to the see of 
 Canterbmy; but the archbishops 
 had no residence here until the 
 reign of John, when Wm. de Corn- 
 hill is said to have given his house 
 in the town to Archbishop Stephen 
 Langton. A later ixilace, built per- 
 haps on this site ; the Church ; and 
 the CuUege or Hospital adjoining, are 
 now the main objects of interest in 
 Maidstone. 
 
 The veiy large and important 
 church is Perji. throughout ; and is 
 to be assigned almost entirely to 
 Abp. Courtenay (1381-139(3), who, 
 after rebuilding the college, temp. 
 Rich. II., obtained the king's licence 
 to convert the parish church of St. 
 Mary to a collegiate church, dedi- 
 cating it afresh to All Saints. The 
 chancel still contains 28 stalls of 
 carved oak for the members of the 
 college ; among the ornaments of 
 which the arms of Abp. Courtenay 
 are frequently repeated, and in the 
 centre of the pavement is a slab 
 from which the brasses have been 
 removed, but still showing by th^jr 
 matrices the figure of an archbishop. 
 Tins is thought to have been a me- 
 morial of Abp. Courtenay, rebuilder
 
 80 
 
 Route 5. — Maidstone — The Church. 
 
 Sect. L 
 
 that the figure 
 
 not represented 
 
 as at Cuuter- 
 
 the staff siir- 
 
 of the ch., and, according to the 
 leiger-boolc of Ch. Cli., Canterbury, 
 actually interred at Canterbury, 
 wliere his monument still exists, 
 adjoining that of the Black Prince. 
 There, is, however, some uncer- 
 tainty as to the archbishop's real 
 place of interment. Tlie ground 
 underneath the slab in Maidstone 
 ch. was examined in 1794, when a 
 skeleton was discovered at the depth 
 of (3 ft. ; but no ring or pastoral 
 staff was found ; and, from the per- 
 fect state of the teeth, the remains 
 are thought to have been^ those of 
 a younger man than Courtenay, 
 vvdio, liowever, certainly died at 
 Maidstone. His own will directs 
 his burial in the ehurcliyard liere, 
 thereby adding a fresh difficulty. 
 It is remarkable 
 on the brass was 
 with the crozier, 
 bury, but with 
 mou.ited by a cross. Probalily the 
 direct assertion of the Canterljury 
 leiger-book should outweigh the 
 doubtful evidence on the side of 
 Maidstone. The ricldy-painted chan- 
 cel screen should be noticed. Remark 
 also a slab on the iJavement, from 
 which the brasses have been re- 
 moved, but whicli formerly covered 
 the altar-tomb of Lord Rivers of tiie 
 Mote, fatlier of Elizabeth, c[ucen of 
 Edward IV. The sedilia are fine and 
 elaborately ornamented ; but defaced 
 by intrusive 17tli century monuments 
 of Astlcys and KnatchbulLs. They 
 were erected by John Wootton 
 (d. 1417), first master of the college, 
 whose canopied tomb is at the 
 back, in the S. chancel. The brass 
 has disappeared, but in the arch 
 above the tomb is a very curious 
 mural painting, the subject of which 
 is the presentation of the deceased 
 to the Virgin by a figure perhaps 
 representing the archangel Gabriel. 
 On either side are St. Catherine, 
 'and, perliaj)s, St. J\Iary IMagdalene ; 
 and beyond them a .sainted bis'iop 
 and archbishop, botli crowned witli 
 
 a circular nimbus, and the latter 
 wearing the pall. They probably 
 represent Abp. Becket and Bp. 
 Richard de la Wych of Chichester, 
 the patron saints of the two cathe- 
 drals with which Wootton was con- 
 nected. (He was a canon of Chi- 
 chester.) Here is also bm-ied William 
 Grocyn, eleveuth master, the friend 
 of Linacre and Erasmus, and one 
 of the fii-st Greek innovators at Ox- 
 ford. A cm'ious brass in the S. 
 chancel aisle, of the Beale family, 
 should be noticed ; and in the Arun- 
 del chapel one for Rich. Beeston, 
 lady, and children. In the vestry 
 is a library, most of the books in 
 which were given l)y a Dr. Bray in 
 173(3. One vol. of a folio Bible, 
 however, and a missal, both dating 
 about 1400, may, perhaps, have be- 
 longed to the library of Abp. Cour- 
 (enay's college. 
 
 Tlie tower of Maidstone ch. was 
 originally crowned 1 >y a wooden spire, 
 80 ft. high, whicli was destroyed by 
 ligiitniug in Yl'M). 
 
 S. of the church, and stretching 
 down toward the river, is the Col- 
 Ie(je, or Ilospiiul, of All Saints. 
 In the year 12G0 Archbishop Boni- 
 face founded the hospital of New- 
 ark, at tlie entrance of the town 
 from Wrotham, for the reception of 
 poor travellers, and for the special 
 benefit of pilgrims on their way to 
 the great shrine at Canterbm-y. In 
 1395 this hospital was incorporated 
 by Abp. Courtenay with the new 
 college of secular i)riests (a master 
 and six chaplains), founded by him, 
 close to the parish church, which 
 was at this tinie made collegiate. 
 This college of All Saints continued 
 to flourish under the patronage of the 
 archbishops until the first year of 
 Edward VI., wlien it was suppressed 
 with similar foundations. The an- 
 nual value of the college at this 
 time was 212L 
 
 The remains at present belong to 
 Lord Romne_y, who made consider- 
 able alterations here in 184.5. Tliey
 
 Kent. Route 5. — Maidstone — Archiej^iscopal Palace. 
 
 81 
 
 consist of a gateway tower, a long 
 range of rooms between it and the 
 river, terminated by a second tower, 
 parts of the master's house, a ruined 
 tower adjoining it, and a second or 
 back gateway. The gateway tower 
 is very line ; and witli tlie long adjoin- 
 ing" range, originally the jariests apart- 
 ments, and the lower tower above tlie 
 river, is best seen from the churcli- 
 yard. The grey of the Kentisli stone 
 contrasts well with the ivy and vari- 
 ously-tinted foliage waving and clus- 
 tering about it. 1. of tlie gateway was 
 the college bakehouse — probably for 
 charitable purposes, since tlie prepa- 
 ration of the brethi-en"s "manchets "' 
 scarcely requu-ed such ample space. 
 From the top of the tower there 
 is a fine view over the town and 
 river. Above the archway is a noble 
 apartment, which was perhaps never 
 completed, since the crown of the 
 arcli forms tlie only flooring in the 
 centre. In the long range rt. of 
 the gateway were the refectory and 
 kitchen, and above them a row of 
 dormitories. A cloister toward the 
 court was removed in 1845. At the 
 top of the river tower, which termi- 
 nates this range, is a room which 
 iias been called the Treasuiy. 
 
 The master's house, occupying the 
 side of the court toward the river, 
 has been greatly changed and added 
 to, but still retains some part of its 
 ancient arrangements. The ruined 
 tower adjoining the back gateway 
 seems to have been connected with 
 it. The gateway which leads into 
 the open country lies between two 
 barns, themselves part of the ori- 
 ginal buihliugs. Detailed notices of 
 all these remains will be found in a 
 Historn of the College of All Saints, 
 Maidstone, hi/ the liev. Beale Paste. 
 Whittaker, 1847. 
 
 N. of the ell. is the ancient archi- 
 episcopal Falace, tolerably perfect, 
 and now divided into 2 private 
 dwelling-houses. Abp. Ufford began 
 to rebuild it in 1348 ; the materials 
 of the ruined palace at Wrotliam 
 
 were devoted to its completion by 
 Abp. Islip ; Abp. Courtenay added 
 to it ; and finally Abj). Morton 
 (1486) enlarged and adorned it. The 
 existing building (with the excep- 
 tion of the E. front, which seems to 
 be Elizabethan) is entirely Perjj., 
 and belongs to the time when, after 
 the establishment of the college here, 
 Maidstone became one of the most 
 favoiu-ite among the 1(5 arcliiepis- 
 copal i^alaces. The jialace was 
 granted by Q. Elizabeth to Sir John 
 Astley, passed fi-om him to Sir Jacob 
 Astley, Charles I.'s Baron of Reading 
 (wliose nionimient exists in the ch.), 
 and was finally alieiuited by this 
 fumily to the first Lord Roniney, 
 whose descendant still possesses it. 
 
 Of higher interest than the palace 
 itself is a long range of outbuilding 
 on tlie opposite side of the road, 
 which seems to have orighially 
 formed part of the offices. It is 
 now usetl for stables and tan-stores ; 
 but the exterior has been little 
 changed. Note the external stair of 
 stone, usual in the court buildings 
 attached to houses of this period 
 (late Dec.). The doors are slightly 
 pointed. The windows between the 
 buttresses on the W. side are slightly 
 pointed in the lower range, and 
 square-headed above. The whole 
 building deserves notice, and is pro- 
 bably of earlier date than any por- 
 tion of the palace itself. A small 
 ancient building at the end of Mill 
 Street, immediately at the gate turn- 
 ing down to the palace, is yet more 
 remarkalile, and is, perhaps, of the 
 14th cent. Its history is altogether 
 unknown. 
 
 The tomist should descend from 
 the W. end of the churchyard to the 
 river-ljank below, where he will 
 obtain good views of the hospital, 
 the church, and the palace, together 
 foi-ming a very picturesque grouj). 
 Fiuther down is the ancient bridge 
 across the Medwaj', an archiepiscopal 
 contribution to the town ; and be- 
 yond the river stretcli away tJie Park 
 E 3
 
 82 
 
 Route 5. — Maidstone — The Mote. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Meadows, so called fi-om a park or 
 " pleasauiice " which anciently ex- 
 tciidcd here in fi-out of the palace 
 and hospital. 
 
 The chief interest of Maidstone 
 is concentrated at tliis corner, al- 
 though some other points should not 
 be left unnoticed. In St. Faith's- 
 sti'eet are the remains, now dese- 
 crated, of the chapel of St. Faith, 
 which has some pretension to he 
 considered the earliest ch. in Maid- 
 stone. The quarter of the town in 
 which it stands is certainly the 
 oldest, and Roman relics in gi-eat 
 numbers have been discovered here. 
 (Many specimens are preserved in 
 the "Charles Museum." See post.) 
 The buildmg, howevei-, which was 
 long appropriated to the use of the 
 Walloon exiles who settled at Maid- 
 stone early in Elizabeth's reign, con- 
 tains nothing to mark its date with 
 certainty. The chapel of Newark 
 Hospital, founded by Abp. Boniface, 
 at the S.W. entrance of the town, 
 has, after long desecration, been con- 
 verted into the district ch. of St. 
 Peter, but with gi-eat alterations. 
 The modern ch. of the Holy Tri- 
 nity dates from 1819. A new ch. 
 (St. Philip's) has just been erected 
 at the E. end of the town. 
 
 Of ancient liouses in the town, re- 
 mark especially one with very rich 
 carved and pargeted front, rt. in 
 entering the High-street from the 
 .station. It is perhaps temp. Jas. I. 
 In St. Faith's-street is Chillington 
 House, more ancient and interesting. 
 The manor, of which it was tlie 
 "" aula " or court-house, belonged to 
 the Cobhams until the reign of 
 Edward III., when it passed to the 
 Maplesdens, whose representative 
 forfeited it by joining Su" Thomas 
 Wyatt's rising. It has since gone 
 through many hands; and now, in 
 somewhat shattered condition, serves 
 as the Puldic Museum. The house 
 itsc^lf belongs to the early i>art of the 
 IGth century, and is worth a visit. 
 The musemn contains some tolerable 
 
 specimens of the birds and fossils of 
 the neighbom-hood, and an interest- 
 ing collection of local Eoman anti- 
 quities, all presented to the to^vn by 
 the late Thomas Charles, Esq. 
 
 On the Rochester road is the 
 County Gaol, capable of holding 450 
 prisoners, built in 1818, at a cost of 
 180,00UL The front contains the 
 assize courts. The Cavalry Burraclis, 
 with accommodation for about 400 
 men, are below on the river side. 
 Here too are the Maidstone paper- 
 mills, now Balston's factory, and, 
 as well as the Tui-key-mill, a little 
 outside the town on the Asliford 
 road, formerly known as Whatman's. 
 Drawing-ijapers of the best qualitj- 
 are manufactured here ; and botli 
 mills, tiie operations of which are 
 simple and easily comprehended, 
 employ a large nmnber of liands. 
 
 A general view of IMaidstoue is 
 not easily gained, owing to the very 
 gradual rise of the hills on either side 
 of the valley. The ch. and gi'oup of 
 old buildings about it are well seen 
 from the College hop-ground, through 
 which a path leads to Tovil, a hamk t 
 on the rt. bank of the river. The 
 sunset effect from this point is very 
 striking, and worth seeking bj- the 
 artist. In Tovil is a good modern 
 E. E. ch. dedicated to St. Stephen 
 (architect.WTiichcord, of Maidstone). 
 Adjoining are large oil-cake and 
 paper mills. 
 
 About 1 m. E. of the town is Tlte 
 Mote (Earl of Romney), built toward 
 the end of the last century, and not 
 too ornamental. The name is said 
 to indicate an ancient gathering- 
 jilace (A.-S. mot), and to have nu 
 reference to the ancient moat which 
 once surrounded the house. The paric, 
 of 600 acres, is fine, and contains 
 some grand old oaks and beeches. A 
 canal, crossed by a bridge, runs in 
 front of the house. Before the reign 
 of Henry III. the Leybornes wire 
 settled here. Early in that of 
 Richard II. the Mote had passed lo 
 the Wydevilles or Woodvilles, after-
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 5. — Allington. 
 
 83 
 
 wards Lords Rivers, Richard de 
 Wydeville beiug created by Henry 
 Vi. Lord Rivers, Grafton, and De 
 la Mote. His daughter Elizabetli 
 became the Queen of Edward IV. 
 After some changes, the Mote passed 
 to the Wyatts of Allington, the 
 Caesars, and the Tuftons, from whom, 
 about 1 G90, it came to the Marshams, 
 then of Whorne's Place, in the parish 
 of Cuxtou. In 1716 Sir Robert 
 Marsham was created Lord Romney ; 
 and his descendants have continued 
 to reside at the Mote. The house 
 was rebuilt by the third Lord Rom- 
 uey about 1795. A " pavilion " 
 erected near the site of the old 
 house marks the spot on which a 
 dinner was given by the third Lord 
 Romney, in the presence of George 
 III., to the Kentish yeomanry. The 
 guests at this dinner (one of the 
 largest on record) exceeded 3000. 
 
 Nearly opposite the Mote is Vit- 
 ners Park (James Whatman, Esq.). 
 
 Quarries of the hard limestone 
 known as " Kentish rag " (see post, 
 Bougldon Monchelsea) are largely 
 worked near the town. In one of 
 these, now known as the " Iguanodon 
 Quarry," the first important Igua- 
 nodon skeleton was discovered by 
 IMr. Bensted, the proprietor. Frag- 
 ments had already been foimd l)y 
 Dr. Mantell in Tilgate Forest ; but 
 the Maidstone specimen first enabled 
 pala3ontologists to ascertain the size 
 of the monster with accuracy. 
 Masses of water-worn wood, cones 
 of a species of abies (Abies Ben- 
 stedi), and leaves of a plant resem- 
 bling a yucca (Dracaena Bunstedi), 
 have also been found in this quaiTy, 
 to which access is readily afforded 
 by the proprietor. 
 
 The Excursions, for making which 
 Maidstone will be found the best 
 centre, are numerous and full of in- 
 terest. The chief points in the 
 immediate neigliboiu'hood may be 
 visited in a long walk — to Alling(u)i 
 Castle, 1^ m. ; thence to Boxley Abbey 
 and Boxleij, 2\ m. ; returning to 
 
 the town across Fenneaden Heath. 
 The round will be about 7j m. 
 
 A broad towhig-path leads along 
 the rt. bank of the river, here essen- 
 tially the "Medway smooth" of 
 Milton. Low, steep banks of wood 
 rise on the opjjosite side, and again 
 very picturesquely on the rt. bank, 
 fronting Allington, where the river 
 cm-ves rornid the castle meadows. 
 The scene here is striking : the red 
 and ochred sails of the barges, con- 
 stantly passing, "solemn as Barons 
 of the Exchequer" (IFciZjJoZe), con- 
 trast finely with the bright coloiu- 
 of the hanging wood. The castle 
 is on the 1. bank; but immediately 
 oiiposite is a good country Inn (the 
 Gibraltar), where a ferry-boat is 
 always ready. 
 
 Allington, a settlement of the 
 Saxon ^lingas (Kenible: the name 
 occurs in many other counties), was 
 granted by the Conqueror to William 
 de Warrene, who is said to have 
 built a castle here. It then passed, 
 through a family of the same n|ime 
 (Allington), to Sir Stephen de Pen- 
 chester, the rebuilder of some part 
 of Pensluu'st, who, toward the end 
 of Henry III.'s reign, obtained licence 
 to fortify and embattle his castle 
 here. From him, through the Cob- 
 hams and Brents, it came, early in 
 the reign of Henry VII., to Sir 
 Hemy Wyatt, whom a vague tradi- 
 tion asserts to have been preserved 
 by a cat whilst a prisoner in the 
 Tower, under Richard III. The cat, 
 it is said, used to bring him a ijigeon 
 every day from a neigldjouring dove- 
 cot. " Sir Henry, in his prosperity," 
 accoi'ding to a cmious notice of him 
 quoted by IMr. Bell from a MS. for- 
 merly belonging to the Wyatts, 
 " for this would ever make much of 
 cats, as other men will of spaniels 
 or hounds ; and perhaps you shall 
 not find his pictiu-e anywhere but, 
 like Sir Christopher Hatton with 
 his dog, with a cat beside him." 
 (A cat, also said to have been his 
 companion in the Tower, is re-
 
 84 
 
 Eoute 5. — AUimjton — The Wyatts. 
 
 Sect, I. 
 
 presented in the portrait of the 
 Earl of Soutliamptou, 8hakspeare's 
 patron, now at Welbcck.) Lady 
 Wyatt, wife of Sir Henry, seems to 
 liave been a heroine of unusnal de- 
 termination. " Keports reaching her, 
 dm-ing Sir Heniy's alxsence, that tlie 
 neighbonring abbot of Boxley was 
 in the liabit of privately visiting her 
 establijshment for purposes not very 
 credit;djle to his sanctity, she placed 
 some of her retainers on the watch ; 
 and having obtained satisfactory 
 proof of his delinquencies, she or- 
 dered him to be seized, carried 
 through the gatehouse, and put into 
 the stocks in front of tlie castle. 
 This indignity, inllicted on a priest, 
 was not to be quietly endmed at a 
 time when the spiritual licence was 
 supposed to cover all scandals ; and 
 the abbot accordingly appealed for 
 redress to the Privy Council. Sir 
 Henry's answer to the charge shows 
 of what metal the Wyatts were 
 formed. He tmuied the whole affair 
 into a jest, and frankly told the 
 Council that, if any of their lord- 
 ships had angered his wife in her 
 own house, as the abbot had done, 
 he verily believed she would have 
 served them in the same manner." 
 
 Of these parents was born here, 
 in 1503, Sir Thomas Wyatt, the poet, 
 the "delight of the muses and of 
 mankind," who, says Fuller, truly 
 answered his anagram, " Wiat, o ivit.'' 
 During his early youth "he brought 
 up a lion's whelp and an Irish grey- 
 hound at the castle, and made play- 
 mates of them, so that they used to 
 wait at the gate or hall door for his 
 coming home, and testify their de- 
 light at his return ))y the most vio- 
 lent demonstrations. At last, as the 
 lion's whelp gTew into corn-age and 
 heat, these testimonies of attach- 
 ment became rather dangerous ; and 
 on one occasion he ran roaring at 
 his yotmg master, and, flying fiercely 
 into his l)osom, must have inevitably 
 destroyed liimbut for the greyhound, 
 who, leaping on his back, pidled liim 
 
 down, when Wyatt coolly drew out 
 his rapier and slew the whelp on the 
 spot. This story being afterwards 
 repeated to Henry VIII., he ob- 
 served, ' Oh, he can tame lions ! ' " 
 
 Notwithstanding the hints of an 
 attachment to Anne Boleyn, Sir 
 Thomas became one of Henry VIII. 's 
 especial favoivrites, and made a " fair 
 seat " of the castle here, where he 
 spent liis time dui-ing his occasional 
 retirements from public affair's. A 
 satire, addressed to his friend John 
 Poins, gives us a pleasant picture of 
 his life at AUingiou : — 
 
 " This maketli me at home to hmit ami hawk ; 
 And ill foul weather at my book to sit ; 
 In frost and snow then with my bow to 
 
 stalk; 
 iso man doth mark whereso I ride or go. 
 In lusty leas at liberty I walk; 
 And of these news 1 feel nor weal nor woe. 
 
 I am not now in France to judge the wine ; 
 
 But I am here in Kent and Christendom 
 Among the Muses, where I read and 
 
 rhyme ; 
 AVhere if thou list, mine own John Poins, 
 
 to come, 
 Thou shalt be judge how I do spend my 
 
 time." 
 
 For the true position of Wyatt as a 
 reformer of English i)oetry, see Mr. 
 Bell's excellent Life (prefixed to his 
 annotated edition of the poems). 
 Wyatt has the credit of having made 
 the first metrical version in English 
 of some ])art of the Psalms (about 
 loil). His portrait has been most 
 effectively drawn by his friend and 
 fellow poet Sm-rey : " Earely have so 
 many noble qualities been collected 
 into a single character — virtue, wis- 
 dom, beauty, strength, and corn-age." 
 It was tlie poet's son who raised the 
 Kentish rel)ellion in the first year of 
 Queen Mary (1554), and who, after 
 the march to London and the deser- 
 tion of his followers, was made pri- 
 soner and beheaded on Tower Hill. 
 His manors were confiscated, and 
 AUington was afterwards granted by 
 Elizabeth to Sir Jolni Astley, in 
 wliose family it continued until it
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route .5. — Ailing ton Castle. — Boxley Abbey. 
 
 So 
 
 passed to tlie first Lord Eomney in 
 1720. The present Earl is now the 
 proprietor. 
 
 Tlie paUxce at Maidstone was 
 .i;;ranted about the same time to Sir 
 John Astley, who resided there, and 
 allowed AUington Castle to fall to 
 ruin, having clisparked the surround- 
 ing enclosm-es. The existing re- 
 mains are considerable, and well 
 deserve a visit. A broad moat, fed 
 from the IMedway, nearly encircles 
 the castle, which stands on unusu- 
 ally low ground, although command- 
 ing the river passage at an imijortant 
 point. The walls form a long 
 parallelogram, with circular towers 
 projecting at intervals. Within, the 
 castle is divided into two distinct 
 courts, of wliich that to the N. is 
 perhaps the most recent. In this is 
 the main entrance gateway, flanked 
 by two small circular towers, and 
 still retaining the portcullis-groove. 
 Above the gate was an apartment of 
 some importance, as usual in late 
 Perp. castles (comp. Hever). Ke- 
 mark, in entering, the square window- 
 hatch, opening into the guardroom 
 W. of the gateway. In this court, 
 on the side fronting the Medway, 
 seem to have been the hall and 
 cliapel. A range of low building, 
 with a good arched entrance, sej^ar- 
 ates this from tiie inner court. The 
 greater part of the first com-t may 
 have been the work of the two 
 Wyatts. In the S.W. angle of the 
 second, or inner court, is a lofty cir- 
 cular tower, apparently of older date, 
 and serving as the castle-keep. This 
 court is usually the first entered in 
 approaching trom the river, a door 
 having been pierced through one of 
 the flankiiig-towcrs, which opens 
 into a vatst chimney, perhaps that of 
 the ancient kitchen. On the Med- 
 way side is the farm-house, built out 
 of fragments of the castle, and 
 piotm-esque with its peaked roofs 
 and wide porches. Ivy and elder- 
 trees hanging about the walls and 
 towers, contribute to the satisfaction 
 
 of the sketcher,who will find his best 
 points of view on the N. and N.W. 
 sides. The irregular mounds be- 
 tween the castle and the river per- 
 haps belong to the "fau- gardens" 
 created here by Wyatt the poet, and 
 may be remains of artificial hillocks, 
 with winding-paths, such as were 
 then fashionable. 
 
 AUington Church, close beyond the 
 castle, is a small Dec. building, of 
 some interest, but without monu- 
 ments. Six Thomas Wyatt, the poet, 
 was lurried at Sherborne, Dorset, 
 where he died on his way into Corn- 
 wall. 
 
 Eecrossingthe river, the Rochester 
 road may either be followed through 
 the hanilet of Sundling (rt. is Sand- 
 ling Place, Com*tenay Stacey, Esq.), 
 or the tom'ist may find his way along 
 the bank of a stream which fails into 
 the Medway a sliort distance below 
 AUington Castle, which will lead 
 him to the entrance of Boxley Abbey 
 (Rev. E. Balston), beyond Sandling. 
 
 The site of the abbey, as in most 
 Cistercian foundations, is low and 
 flat, about 1 m. from tlie river ; the 
 chalk hills rise at some distance be- 
 hind it. It was founded, in 1146, by 
 William of Ypres, Earl of Kent, who 
 closed his own life as a moidi at Laon. 
 A colony of Cistercians was brought 
 here from Clairvaux, of wliich great 
 house Boxley claimed accordingly 
 to be "filia propria." Richard I. 
 granted the manor of Boxley to the 
 abbey, the revenue of which, at the 
 dissolution, was 218/., arising from 
 lands scattered over Kent and Surrey. 
 Much of its ancient rental, however, 
 seems to have been sacrificed for 
 large siuns of money paid in hand. 
 " There hath grown no decay by tliis 
 a])bot," wrote Henry VlII.'s com- 
 missioner, " that we can learn ; but 
 surely his predecessors pleasured 
 nnich in odoriferous savours, as it 
 sliould seem by their converting 
 the rents of the monastery that 
 were wont to be paid in corn and 
 ;,illyflowers and roses.""
 
 8G 
 
 Route 5. — Boxley Ahhey. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 No important historical events are 
 connected with Boxk^y; but tlie 
 abbey church rejoiced iu two re- 
 markable "sotelties," which pro- 
 cured for the Wliite MoidiS here no 
 small celebrity and very satisfactory 
 profits. The iu'st — like the boar's 
 head and enchanted mantle brought 
 by the elfin page to the court of 
 King Arthur, of which only Sir Cra- 
 dock and Sh Cradock's wife could 
 stand the test — was a touchstone of 
 chastity, in the sliape of a small 
 image of St. Eumbald, only to be 
 lifted by those who had never sinned 
 in thought or in deed. " Such who 
 paid the priest well," says plain- 
 spoken old Fuller, " might easily re- 
 move it, whilst others might tug at 
 it to no purpose." It was fastened 
 by a wooden pin moved from be- 
 liiud, and " many chaste virgins and 
 wives went away with blushing 
 faces, whilst others came otf with 
 more credit, because with more 
 coin — though with less chastity." 
 St. Rumbald of Boxley is not to be 
 confounded witli liis namesake, the 
 patron saint of Meclilin. His life 
 lasted but three days, dming wliich 
 he discoursed largely "of all the 
 coiumonplaces of popery," says 
 Fuller ; having announced himself a 
 Christian at the moment of his birth, 
 wliich took place among a tribe of 
 heathen Saxons. The date and place 
 at which tliis least of the saints ap- 
 peared in the world are not fixed by 
 the legend, although Buckingham- 
 shire claims liim as one of her 
 worthies. He was much reverenced 
 througliout Kent, especially here 
 and on the S. coast. 
 
 The second wonder of Boxley was 
 the famous " Rood of Grace," a mi- 
 raculous crucifix, to which crowds of 
 liilgrims resorted fi-om every part of 
 the country. It was rudely disturbed 
 by Henry VIII. 's commissioners, who 
 found therein "certayn ingynes of 
 olde wvi^'r, wyth olde roton stykkes 
 in the backe of the same, that did 
 cause the eies to move and stere in 
 
 the hede thereof lyke luito a lyvelye 
 thinge ; and also the nether lippe in 
 lyke wise to move as though it shulde 
 speke." The image was carried into 
 Maidstone on a market-day, and " iu 
 tlie cheff of the market-time " exhi- 
 bited to the people, who "had the 
 false, crafty, and sotell haiidelynge 
 thereof in wonderous detestacion and 
 hatred." It was then carried to Lon- 
 don, and " solemnly broken to pieces " 
 at Paul's Cross (1538). 
 
 Of the chm'ch in which the in- 
 genious Cistercians conducted these 
 " sotell " exhibitions, nothing now 
 remains but the foundations, wliich 
 are to be traced in the garden of the 
 modern Boxley Abbey. Other ruins 
 have all but entirely disappeared, and 
 there is now little but the recollec- 
 tions connected with the site to 
 attract the visitor. 
 
 The village of Boxley (in Domes- 
 day Boseleu, so called from the 
 quantity of box-trees that here gTOW 
 in tufts in the woods, and along the 
 sides of the chalk hills) lies about l.J 
 m. from the abbey, and on much 
 higher ground. The cli. is Dec, but 
 of no great interest. A remarkable 
 porch or ante-chapel is, however, 
 attached to it, which is unconse- 
 crated, and deserves notice. It per- 
 haps served as the parish-scliool. 
 Until the end of Eichard II. 's reign 
 Boxley church belonged to the priory 
 of Rochester. It then passed to 
 Boxley Abbey, but was restored to 
 the chapter of Rochester after the 
 dissolution. 
 
 In the neighbourhood are, Boxley 
 House (Hon. Mrs. Handley) ; Park 
 (Mrs. Best); and i?roc/i?i/rt "(Edward 
 Burton, Esq.). 
 
 [The church of Detling (1 m. from 
 Boxley) lies close under the hills, 
 and, although itself poor, contains a 
 veiy fine Dec. lectern, which well 
 deserves attention. In the chm'ch- 
 yard is a large and well-designed 
 stone cross, also perhaps Dec. The 
 parish was long the propeiiy of a 
 family of the same name.]
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 5. — Pennenden Heath. — MalUnj. 
 
 87 
 
 Pennenden Heath, across Avhieli the 
 pedestrian may return from Boxley 
 to Maidstone, is still, as at the time 
 of the Conquest, and long before, 
 the great county gathering-place — 
 the scene of the Saxon " sliyregemot " 
 and "wapentakes" and now of all 
 important county meetings. It is 
 worth notice that the F'uinedenna 
 (Pennenden) of Domesday has now 
 become generally corrupted to Fich- 
 enden. Lambarde's derivation of the 
 word from the Saxon pinian, to 
 punish, seems hardly borne out, al- 
 though it is still the place of exe- 
 cution, and the gallows remained 
 standing on a i^aii of the heath 
 above Maidstone until very recently. 
 (Comp. Kemble's remarks. Sax. in 
 Eng., i. 47, on the position of the 
 Sax. " cwealmstow," or place of exe- 
 cution, in the mark, or forest boun- 
 dary, of the primitive settlement.) 
 The various Kentish "dens" were 
 all in this mark. (See Ete. 7 — 
 Tenterden.) The views from the 
 heath, in spite of its high groimd, 
 are not extensive. Its position, 
 nearly in the centre of the county, 
 probably led to its selection as the 
 gatheriug-place for the Saxons of 
 Kent. If, as is very possible, it was 
 used for the same purpose by the 
 Kentish Belg£e,its vicinity to the great 
 cemetery on Boxley and Aylesford 
 hills may not have been accidental. 
 
 The most famous meeting on Pen- 
 nenden Heath, and one that well 
 deserves illustration at the hands of 
 an historical painter, occm-red in 
 107G, when Abp. Laufranc pleaded 
 the cause of his church here against 
 Odo de Bayeux, Earl of Kent, who 
 retained in his hands numerous 
 manors belonging to the see of Can- 
 terbury. Geotfrcy, Bp. of Coutances, 
 sat as tlie king's representative; 
 Lanfrauc and Odo wer(?ljotli present 
 in person, as were many others of the 
 Kentish nobles ; but the most strildng 
 figure was that of Agelric, Bp. of 
 Chester, of great renown for his 
 knowledge of old Saxon law, who. 
 
 on account of his great age, was 
 brought here in a " quadriga " or 
 waggon drawn by oxen. The trial 
 lasted three days, and the archbishop 
 recovered the greater part of his 
 manors. 
 
 The County Hall, a small building 
 of some antiquity, still remains on 
 the heath. A tolerable view of 
 jMaidstone is gained in descending 
 the hill toward the town. 
 
 Mailing Ahheij and the British re- 
 mains at Addington (8 m.) may be 
 visited in a second exciu'sion, which 
 may be made to embrace som(j other 
 2)laces of interest. This will be a 
 long day's work, however, and be- 
 yond a walk. The tourist, first 
 keeping thi'ough the lanes S. of the 
 Sevenoaks road, may visit the two 
 Mailings omA Off hum; thence, cross- 
 ing the main road, he should take 
 the points of interest lying N. — Ad- 
 dington, liijarsh, and Leyhorne. 
 
 A pleasant road, under the woods 
 of Mailing, with glimpses of the 
 Medway rt., and of the chalk-hills 
 beyond it, will bring us to Ditton (3 
 m.), a small Dec. eh., with some re- 
 mains of good stained glass. The 
 Church oi East Mailing (1 m. S.) is 
 of higher interest. It has portions 
 from E. E. to late Perp. Much 
 colomx'd glass remains, esijccially in 
 a Dec. chapel at E. end of N. aisle, 
 the ceiling of which should be re- 
 marked ; the bosses at the intersec- 
 tions retain their gUcHng. The lower 
 part of the tower is E. E., the upper 
 Perp. Brasses : Thos. Selby and 
 Isodia his wife, 1479 ; K. Adams, 
 vicar, 1522. The ch. was given by 
 Ab]). Anselm to the nunnery of W. 
 Mailing. 
 
 Bradbourne Park (Capt. Twisden), 
 adjoining the ch., has been, for the 
 last two centmies, in the hands of 
 the Twisdens. A younger brother 
 of the learned Sir Roger of East 
 Peckhara first settled here, and was 
 himself creatcila baronet by Charles 
 1 1 . The Twisden family is one of the
 
 88 
 
 Route 5. — St. Leonards. — Offliam. 
 
 Sect. I 
 
 laost aiicieut of Kent. The park was 
 pleasant and well wootled, but was 
 converted into hop-gardens and 
 arable lields diu'ing a temporary 
 alienation from the Twisdeus, to 
 whom it has now retm-ned. On the 
 stream that runs tlu'ough it are some 
 paper-mills, the staple manufacture 
 of this district. 
 
 In the neighbourliood is Clare 
 House (J. A. Wigan, Esq.). 
 
 From E. Mailing, through lanes 
 N. of the main road, West, or Town 
 Malliny, is reached. Both Mailings 
 indicate the site of a primitive 
 8ason mark — that of the Mallingas. 
 {Keinhle.) A Benedictine nunnery 
 was founded here in 1090 by Bp. Gun- 
 dulf of Rochester, which was greatly 
 eiuiched by subsequent benefactions. 
 Ten pounds of wax and one wild 
 boar from the oak woods that siu-- 
 roinided the convent were annually 
 sent by the abbess to the Bp. of 
 Rochester, as an acknowledgment 
 of her subjection to the see. At 
 the dissolution Mailing Abbey was 
 granted to Abp. Cranmer, and sub- 
 sequently became the ijroi)erty of the 
 Honeywoods. It is now the resi- 
 dence of the Akers family. 
 
 The remains of Mailing Abbey are 
 full of interest and well deserve a 
 visit. They contain portions from 
 Norm, to late Perp. The principal 
 Norm, fragment is the W. front of 
 the abbey ch., of which the slender 
 turrets and ornamented pilasters so 
 gi'eatly resemble the W. front of 
 Rochester Cathedi-al as to leave little 
 doubt tliat both are the work of the 
 same designer. The cloisters, now in- 
 cluded in the modern residence, are 
 late E.E., with broad trefoiled arches, 
 very good and interesting. The front- 
 ing of the great gateway, which is 
 entire, is Perp., " but examination 
 will show this work to be oidy a 
 facing." — Ilussey. To this gatehouse 
 a chapel was attached, which lias 
 been recently restored. It has Dec. 
 windows, l)ut the S. door is Perp. 
 
 At St. Ltonards, a short distance 
 
 S. of the abbey, was a cell with a 
 chapel, the site of which is uncer- 
 tain. A large, square towei', of con- 
 siderable interest, still remains here, 
 which has been pronounced a Nor- 
 man keep (Hussey). On this, how- 
 ever, the archajologist may sjjecidatc 
 for himself. A fragment of wall has 
 been traced, running E., below the 
 tower. The manor, at the time of 
 the Domesday sm-vey, was in the 
 hands of the bishops of Rochester, 
 by whom the stronghold must have 
 been erected. 
 ^The Church of W. Mailing has a 
 Norman tower, without a staircase. 
 The chancel is E. E. The nave was 
 rebuilt toward the end of the last 
 centuiy. Brasses : Will. Millys, 
 U'Jl ; Will. Skott, 1532; and some 
 others of less interest. 
 
 Skirting the woods that stretch 
 upward from behind Mereworth, we 
 reach (1 m. from Mailing) Offham, 
 where is a small Norm, and E. E. 
 church, worth looking at. In the 
 chancel windows, E. E., are some 
 fragments of stained glass. On the 
 exterior wall of the chancel remark 
 a wide, shallow buttress, apparently 
 Norm., in which, it has been sug- 
 gested, the rootUoft stairs were 
 carried. A similar buttress, with 
 what seems a window-frame, now 
 clo.sed, exists in Hever Church, and 
 in the same position. 
 
 Offliam Green long boasted of a 
 venerable relic in the shape of a 
 quintain, both parts of which — the 
 uiiright post and the cross-piece, to 
 which tlie bag of sand was attached 
 — remained luitil very recently. The 
 estate on which it stands was, it is 
 said, bound to keep it in repair ; 
 but only the upright post is now to 
 be seen. Quintains of this form are 
 scarcely earlier than the reign of 
 Elizabeth, the more ancient having 
 been in the shape of a giant or 
 " Saracen," with a broad wooden 
 sword, which struck the luiskilfid 
 tilter as the figm'c turned on its 
 pivot. {Mrijrieh.)
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 5. — Addington. 
 
 89 
 
 The road leading; from Westerliam 
 and Seveuoaks to Maidstone, crossed 
 in passing from Oftliani to Adding- 
 ton (2 m.), is, perhaps, one of great 
 antiquity — in all probability Koman, 
 if it represents the " military way " 
 mentioned in the charter (a. 945) of 
 Edmund of Wessex, granting W. 
 Mailing to the Bp. of Kochester. It 
 is possible, however, that this ancient 
 road ran somewhat more to the S. 
 The Clmrclt of Addington is Perp., 
 but not veiy interesting. The barge- 
 board of the N. porch is worth notice. 
 Some Brasses remain ; one very good 
 (William Snaith and wife, 1409); 
 and some fragments of incised slabs, 
 with Lombardic capitals, temp. Edw. 
 II., for the Leschekers (de Scac- 
 cario), lords of tlie manor. The in- 
 scription on the wall — 
 
 " In fourteen hundred and none 
 Here was neither stick nor stone ; 
 In fourteen hundred and tliree 
 Tlie goodlj' building which you see "^ 
 
 noticed here by Hasted, has now 
 disappeared. This rhyme, it may 
 be observed, is claimed by other 
 churches, in Sm-rey and elsewhere. 
 
 The position of the eh., on a 
 wooded hillock, is very pictiu'esque. 
 The hillock itself, a remarkable cone 
 of earth, is one of several which 
 exist in the S. part of this parish. 
 If these "veritable pyramids" are 
 artificial, as has been suggested 
 by ]VIr. Wright {Wanderings of an 
 Antiquary), the)' are sepidchral 
 mounds, and i:)Ossibly contain great 
 stone cromlechs, resembling that of 
 Kit's Coity House. This is rendered 
 more probable by the existence, in 
 the immediate neighbom-hood, of 
 considerable remains of the kind 
 u.sually called Druidical, and of many 
 sepulchral pits in the chalk-hills, 
 as well as by a tradition connecting 
 this place with tlie hills above Ayles- 
 ford, to which a continuous line of 
 stones is said to have extended, 
 some of which arc still to be traced. 
 
 The cluster of these remains about 
 Addington perhaps indicates a great 
 
 tribal cemetery, like that al Ayles- 
 ford. In Addington Park (J. Wing- 
 field Stratford, Esq.) are two stone 
 circles, within the smaller of which 
 are pieces of hirge cap-stones, pos- 
 sibly the covering slabs of cromlechs. 
 " It should be remarked that the 
 ground within the smaller circle ap- 
 pears raised, as though it were the 
 remains of a moimd, which, per- 
 haps, was never comi)leted." — 
 Wright. An irregidar mass of large 
 stones near the circles perhaps covers 
 a subterranean chamber. At no 
 great distance from Addington Park, 
 at the foot of a hill near Culdrmn 
 Farm, is another smaller circle, with 
 a cromlech, perfect all but the cap- 
 stone. Within tliis, numerous frag- 
 ments of urns, &c., of various periods, 
 but chiefly Brito-Koman, were found 
 in 185G. Just above, at the top of 
 Eyarsh chalk-hill, are two large 
 stones lying flat on the ground ; and 
 near them is the entrance to what is 
 apparently a sepulchral chamber, 
 cut in the chalk. The entrance is 
 by a well, about 20 ft. deep and 10 
 in diameter. A doorway at the 
 bottom leads into the chamber. 
 (Comp. the pits filled with flints on 
 Aylesford Common, a;i<e.) In Poimd- 
 gate, or ^liite Horse Wood, running 
 along the top of the hill behind, are 
 numerous masses of stones, resem- 
 bling those of the circles, and the two 
 lying near the mouth of the pit. 
 Single stones of great magnitude are 
 scattered over the holds, and may 
 be traced for some distance toward 
 the Medway. The tradition of this 
 great stone avenue may be compared 
 with the famous parallel rows of 
 stone at Caruac, in Britanny, with 
 some miniature remains, of precisely 
 sinular character, still existing on 
 Dartmoor, and with the few relics of 
 Avebm-y, in Wilts. The distance 
 from the Coldrum circles to Kit's 
 Coity House is nearly 6 m., and the 
 two cemeteries, thus imited by a 
 long stone avenue, seem to have 
 formed the grand necropolis of the
 
 90 
 
 Route 5. — BirUng. — Leyhorne. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Belgian settlers in this part of the 
 island. " The whole district is tlms 
 interesting as one of our hallowed 
 sites ; while the footsteps of the 
 wanderer are di'awn to it by its rich 
 scenery, diversified with pastures, 
 cornfields, and liop-grounds, plenti- 
 fuUj' intermingled with woods and 
 copses." — Wright. Tlie first careful 
 investigator of these remains was 
 the Rev. L. B. Larking of Ryarsh. 
 Mr. Wright has followed, with an 
 excellent description ; but much 
 remains to be done. Tlie great 
 earthen pyramids at Addington 
 seem, at all events, to hold out hopes 
 of reward to the investigator. 
 
 The stones of tlie circles and 
 avenue are ferruginoiis sandrock, 
 boulders of which, dming the ter- 
 tiary period, were carried over the 
 whole of the chalk district in this 
 neighbomhood. Geologists and an- 
 tiquaries, however, are agreed as to 
 many of the stones in the so-called 
 avenue having been artificially 
 placed. Others are still in situ in 
 the diluvial soil. 
 
 In the parish of Addington is a 
 " nailbourne " (see Introd. Kent), 
 which breaks out at intervals of some 
 years, and flows into the Leyborue 
 rividet. 
 
 Tile Church of Eyarsh (1 ra. from 
 Addington) is Norm., with Perp. al- 
 terations and additions. The E. end 
 .shows traces of numerous small Nor- 
 man windows, replaced by a single late 
 Pei-p. There is also a Norm, piscina. 
 
 [At BirUng, Ij m. N. of Ryarsh, 
 and close under the range of chalk- 
 hills that here sweeps round toward 
 the Medway, forming what is called 
 the valley of Maidstone, was the 
 ancient residence of the Nevilles, 
 Lords Bergavenny — BirUng Place 
 — now a farm-house, but exliibiting 
 many indications of its ancient state. 
 The cluu-cli is Perp., and contains 
 a very good window of stained 
 glass, the recent gift of Lord Aber- 
 gavenny, some of whose ancestors 
 were interred here. Tliere are no 
 
 monuments. The manor, with its 
 enclosed park, passed througli the 
 families of Maminot and Say to the 
 Nevilles about 1435, when Sii- Ed- 
 ward Neville, fourth son of the first 
 Earl of Westmoreland, received the 
 lands of Birling in right of his wife, 
 together with the title of Lord Berga- 
 venny. His descendant still pos- 
 sesses it, but Birling Place has long 
 been deserted, — first for Kidbrooke, 
 and then for Castle Bridge, near 
 Tunbridge Wells.] 
 
 Passing The Grange (Sir Joseph 
 Hawley), the Church of Leijhoriie, 
 which deserves a visit, will be 
 reached about 1 m. from Ryarsh. It 
 is E. E., with Peip. additions ; and 
 on the N. side of the N. aisle is a 
 remarkable nicho of Dec. character. 
 It is of considerable size, much or- 
 namented, and has two trefoiled 
 arches, divided by a shaft and filled 
 with solid masonry about half-way 
 up. In each of these arches is a 
 small tabernacle, within one of 
 wliieh was found, during a recent 
 investigation, a heart, in a leaden box. 
 The other had been prepared to re- 
 ceive a similar deposit, wliich, how- 
 ever, had never been placed tliere. 
 The heart was, perhaps, tliat of Sir 
 Thomas de Leyborne, who died 
 temp. Edw. II. 
 
 Close to the cli. stood the ancient 
 Castle of Leyborne {LeJehurne of 
 Domesday, from the "little bm-n" 
 or stream that runs through the 
 parish), held by a family of the same 
 name from the reign of Ca3ur de Lion 
 to that of Edward III.; when their an- 
 cient race became extinct in the per- 
 son of Juliana_ de licyl^orne, called 
 the " Infanta of Kent," from the 
 broad lands and manors she inherited 
 in this county, and wliich she carried 
 successively to her three Imsbands. 
 She gave Leyborne to the king 
 (Edward III.), for the endowment of 
 religious houses ; and by him it was 
 bestowed on the newly-founded Cis- 
 tercian abbey of St. Mary Graces 
 in Loudon, Since tlie dissolution it
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 5. — Bersted. — Thurnham. 
 
 91 
 
 has passed through various hands, 
 and finally into those of the Hawleys 
 of the Grange, who are now lords 
 of the manor. The site of the Castle 
 may still be traced, and a fine gate- 
 way remains. 
 
 From Leyborue the tom-ist may 
 retiu-n to Maidstone, 5^ m., by the 
 Sevenoaks road ; passing through 
 the hamlet of Larkfield, which gives 
 name to the hundred. 
 
 A third excursion will be to Leeds 
 Castle, 5 m.,from whence the tourist, 
 instead of retm-mug to Maidstone, 
 may proceed to ClMring, where roads 
 dividing i-t. and 1. will take him 
 either to Chilham and Canterbm-y, 
 or to Ashford. The whole of this 
 country is very pictiu"esque, much 
 broken into hill and valley, and well 
 wooded. The road for the most 
 part follows the line of what are 
 called " The Quarry Hills " — the 
 .sandstone underlying the chalk. 
 The Weald of Kent stretches away 
 S., and wide views across it are oc- 
 casionally commanded. 
 
 Although Eoman remains have 
 been discovered at difl'erent points 
 along this road, it seems imcertain 
 whether any line of way was con- 
 stiTicted by that people through the 
 centre of Kent. But the present 
 road is certainly of great antiquity ; 
 and a little to the N. of it, keeping 
 more to the hills, ran the ancient 
 " Pilgrims' Way," stretchmg from 
 Sm-rey into Kent, and probably of 
 British origin. 
 
 The chief places of interest on the 
 road now to be followed are Leeds, 
 Leiihani, and Charing. Churches 
 of some importance, however, lie 
 either on the road, or at a short dis- 
 tance from it. 
 
 Skuiiiig the park of the Mote, rt., 
 we gradually ascend the hills above 
 the valley of Maidstone. Bersted, 
 2 m. 1., is said to be the cradle of 
 tlie Bertie family, who possessed 
 lauds liere before the reign of Henry 
 II. At the angles of the Perp. 
 
 church-tower are placed three rude 
 figures, called, though questionably, 
 " bears seiant," and said to refer to 
 the name of the parish. Beyond the 
 village is Milgate, long the seat of 
 the Cayes, and now the property of 
 their co-heiresses. At Ware Street, in 
 this parish, is a large tumulus, as 
 yet unexplored. 
 
 [At Thurnham, 1 m. N., is an in- 
 ditYerent Dec. Church with a good E. 
 window. On the top of the chalk 
 hill above the village, and command- 
 ing a pass tlirough the valley below, 
 which leads to Sittingbourne, are 
 the riiins of Goddard's or Thurnham 
 Castle, the history of which is alto- 
 gether unknown. The walls, built 
 of rough flint, are on 'the N. side 
 about 13 ft. high and 3 ft. in thick- 
 ness. On the other sides the found- 
 ations alone remain traceable. E. of 
 the area enclosed, about J of an acre, 
 is an artificial mount. Roman urns 
 and other remains have been found 
 about this liill ; but no branch road 
 has been traced to the Watling 
 Street tlirough the valley below, 
 though one may very probably have 
 existed. Darell asserts (what was 
 no doubt the local tradition) that 
 the castle was built by a Saxon 
 named Godard. It was a complete 
 ruin in Leland's time.] 
 
 The chiu-ch of Otham, across the 
 stream of the Len, rt., has some Nor- 
 man portions. Remark a door in- 
 serted in the N. wall, \vith a hood 
 moulding carried quite to the ground 
 on either side. The Len here sup- 
 plies i^aper-mills as usual ; and the 
 wide, open comitry S. is famous for 
 its growth of fruit and hops. 
 
 We now speedily come in sight of 
 Leeds Castle (5 m. from Maidstone), 
 the main object of our pilgrimage. 
 
 In spite of Walpole's disappoint- 
 ment, who visited Leeds in 1752, 
 and pronounced the picture of the 
 Duchess of Buckingham " the only 
 reconq:)ence for all the fatigues ho 
 liad undergone," the archaeologist 
 will find no lack of occupation and
 
 92 
 
 Route 5. — Leeds Castle. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 interest here, althinip;!! the Duclicss's 
 liietiire is no longer to he seen. 
 
 Leeds (Domesday, Esledes   — a 
 word which has certainly nothing to 
 do with the apoehryphal I>edian, 
 King Ethelhert's " chief counsellor," 
 who, according to Kilburne, gave 
 name to the place ; it may perhaps 
 be the Sax. slade, an opening in the 
 woods) was early granted "by tlie 
 Conqueror to tlie family of Creve- 
 cceur (Rivenheart) of Chatham, who 
 possessed it till late in the reign 
 of Henry III., when it passed by 
 exchange to the Leybornes. William 
 de Leyborne resigned it to Edward 
 I., who had remarked the import- 
 ance of its position. Bartholomew 
 de Badlesmere, called " the rich 
 Lord Badlesmere of Leeds," was 
 castellan here under Edward II., 
 and, joining the Earl of I^ancaster, 
 lield out tlie castle against the queeii, 
 who had attempted to gain posses- 
 sion of it by a pretended pilgrimage 
 to Canterbuiy. The " rich lord " 
 was afterwards hung at Canterbury. 
 The castle, which remained in pos- 
 session of the crown, after occasional 
 temporary grants, was at lengtli be- 
 stowed by Edward VI. on Sir An- 
 thony St. Leger. From his de- 
 scendants it passed through dift'erent 
 hands to the Colepepers, in 1G32; 
 and, by marriage, to the Yorksliire 
 Fairfaxes. The present possessor, 
 Cliarles Wykeham Martin, Esq., re- 
 presents this family. 
 
 Leeds was the great central 
 stronghold of Kent, and commanded 
 the veiy important line of road that 
 passed eastward to Canterburj' and 
 the sea, keeping the high ground 
 above the deep clays of the "Weald. 
 Partly owing to this position it has 
 witnessed some rt'inarkable events, 
 and has received some remarkable 
 visitors. Abp. Arundel had a grant 
 of it for his life, and many of his 
 instriuuents are dated from here 
 during the j^roccss against Lord 
 Cobham. Abp. Chieheley sat here 
 during some part of the trial of the 
 
 Duchess Eleanor of Gloucester for 
 sorcery. Leeds was visited fre- 
 quently by Richard II., and was one 
 of the prisons in which that unhappy 
 prince was confined. Henry IV. 
 was himself here in the 2nd year 
 of his reign ; and, as if in retaliation 
 for the suiferings of Ricliard, Joan 
 of Navarre, the second queen of 
 Henry IV., was imprisoned here by 
 Henry V., under a charge of con- 
 spiracy against his life. She was 
 afterwards removed to Pevensey. 
 
 The castle stands in the centre of 
 a wide park, finely wooded, and en- 
 circled by low green bills. Its 
 crown of towers and turrets rises from 
 the midst of a broad sheet of water, 
 forming a moat ; " the only hand- 
 some object," says Walpole. " It is 
 quite a lake, supplied by a cascade 
 Avhicli tumbk^s through a Int of ro- 
 mantic grove." This is, in fact, a 
 reach of the Len rivulet, wliieh winds 
 through the domain ; and sluices 
 from this moat enabled the owner of 
 the castle to inundate at will a con- 
 siderable part of the surrounding 
 country. The main fortress dates 
 from the lltli cent. ; and altliough 
 it o1)tained little favour in the eyes 
 of Stniwberry Hill, is of very high 
 value as a specimen of the military 
 architecture of that century. Much 
 of the present building is modern. 
 " The Fairftixes had fitted up a pert, 
 bad apartment in the fore part of the 
 
 castle They had a gleam 
 
 of Gothic in their eyes, but it soon 
 passed off into some modern win- 
 dows, and some that never were 
 ancient." — Wdliiole. The original 
 plan of the fortifications can, how- 
 ever, be distinctly made out. The 
 moat, or lake, surrounds three small 
 islands. " On the first are the re- 
 mains of the barbican, and adjoining 
 the castle mill. On the second is 
 the gatehouse ; the outer bailey, 
 surrounded liy a wall of (. nceinte ; 
 and at the further end, one wing of 
 the castle. On the third, the ijrin- 
 cipal mass of the castle, and a small
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 5. — Leeds. 
 
 93 
 
 inner court. The walls rise straight 
 from the water ; and there is a cu- 
 rious original boat-house under part 
 of the castle. Each island was con- 
 nected with the other by a draw- 
 bridge only, so that each could be 
 defended separately." — C. W. Mar- 
 tin, in Parker's Domestic Architecture, 
 vol. ii. The biuldiugs are of more 
 than one period, but a great part are 
 of the 14th cent., and are no doubt 
 the work of AVilliani of Wykeham, 
 who, in 1B59, was appointed " chief 
 warder and survc yor " of the king-'s 
 castle of Leeds, which had fallen 
 into a comjjletely ruinous state after 
 the death of the " rich lord Badles- 
 mere." The windows of the chapel 
 are perhaps of earlier date. They 
 are tilled with geometrical tracery, 
 whicli is said to have been restored 
 after tlie windows iKvd been blown 
 in by a hurricane in ISl-i. (Gump, 
 the tracery in the hall windows 
 of Penshiu'st, and Mayfield, Sussex, 
 and in those of Charthanr church ; it 
 is of the same character and period 
 as this, and is sufficiently peculiar 
 to have received the name of the 
 "Kentish tracery.") Much of the 
 building on the third island dates 
 from the reign of Henry VIII., and 
 was erected by Su- Henry Guildford, 
 then constable of Leeds. The in- 
 ternal arrangements of the castle 
 have been greatly altered, and the 
 family portraits and Faii'fax papers, 
 many of which were of great interest, 
 have been dispersed. 
 
 Such a castle as that of Leeds 
 was not complete without an adjoin- 
 ing religiims establishment; and, 
 accordingly, about 5 m. distant, is 
 the site of Leeds Friary, founded in 
 1119 by Robert dc; Crevecoeur for 
 August inian canons. After the dis- 
 solution it was granted to the St. 
 Legers, from whom it passed through 
 a long succession of Coverts and 
 Merediths. The principal mass of 
 buildings was converted into a 
 dwelling-house by William Covert 
 in 1598, as appears by a date and 
 
 initials still remaining above a portal 
 here. The church, of which no 
 trace exists, was of unusual size and 
 beauty, and contained a famous shrine 
 of the Vii-gin. In it were interred 
 many of the Crevecceurs. The situ- 
 ation of the priory, on a gentle rising 
 ground, backed by wood, and over- 
 looking a stream falling into the 
 Leu, was very pleasant ; and the 
 scene is now almost the single at- 
 traction remaining for the tourist. 
 On the stream is a very ancient mill, 
 once belonging to the Augustinians. 
 
 In the liamlet of Nash, 4 oi- W. 
 of Leeds Castle, is a house called 
 Battle Hall, which should not be 
 left vmvisited. The hall and one 
 wing are of the 14th century ; but 
 considerable alterations seem to have 
 l)een made tem]^. Hen. VIII. In 
 the hall, and close to the screen, is 
 a very beautiful stone lavatory and 
 cistern, the forms of which are un- 
 usual. There are but slight traces 
 of fortification at this place, the earl)- 
 history of which is unknown. Temp. 
 Hen. VIII. it belonged to Robert 
 Chambre ; and it afterwards became 
 part of the Leeds Castle property. 
 
 The village of Leeds is pictm- 
 esqucly scattered over a series of 
 abrupt eminences. In it is a small 
 house, now a farm, which perhaps 
 dates from early in the 1.5th centin-y. 
 The lower part is of stone, witli 
 windows of Perp. character ; the 
 upper i^art of wood, with oi^eu pa- 
 nellings of good design. Above is 
 a battlemented wooden stringcourse. 
 The roof is original and perfect. 
 
 The Church of Leeds is remark- 
 able for its low stunted tower. It 
 has some fragments of stained glass, 
 and a good screen of wood divitles 
 the chancel from the nave. There 
 are here some elaborate 17th cen- 
 tury moniunents for the Merediths 
 of the abbey and castle. 
 
 [_Gh-eerimiy Court, now a farm- 
 house, in the parish of Holling- 
 bourne, under the chalk-hills N. 
 of Leeds, was the residence of tlie
 
 94 
 
 Moitte 5. — Harrietsliam. — Lenliam. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Ciilpepers from tlie rei,t>;n of Eliza- 
 beth, and was sold by them to tlie 
 Fairfaxes. The ch. of Holling- 
 boiu'ne is crowded with Culi^epiT 
 monuments of the 17th and 18th 
 centimes : the best, a recumbent 
 effigy of a I-ady Cnlpcper, d. 1038. 
 An altar-cloth, pulpit-hangings, and 
 cushion, of purple velvet, embroi- 
 dered in gold-thread with grapes 
 and pomegranates, were the worlt of 
 the daughters of Sir John Culpeiier, 
 afterwards Lord Cnlpoijer, who are 
 said to have thus employed tliem- 
 selvcs dming the many years in 
 which their father shared the exile 
 of Charles II. 
 
 Tlie chm-ches of Frinsted, Worm- 
 sell, and Bicknor, 3 m. N., and lying 
 nearly in a line from E. to "W., de- 
 serve a careful examination from the 
 very early character disj^layed in 
 portions of them. " The most an- 
 cient, and apparently the original, 
 portion of Frinsfed ch. has circular, 
 very short, and thick piers, with 
 2)lain capitals, except that two piers, 
 in other respects like the rest, have 
 a Norm, leaf, low and roughly carved, 
 in their capitals. In Wormsell ch. 
 the arches, which are pointed, ap- 
 pear to be mere perforations of the 
 wall ; the soffetes being single, the 
 angles not chamfered, of the thick- 
 ness of the wall, flat and plain from 
 one side to the other. All these 
 churches are small, particularly 
 Bicknor ; which, however, comprises 
 two side aisles, the two intervening 
 arches being low, round, supported 
 by heavy square piers, and perfectly 
 plain, except some little Norm, orna- 
 ment on the capitals, of which the 
 outline resembles tliat of Steetly ch., 
 Derbysldre, fig. in ' Gloss, of Archi- 
 tcctiu-e.'' — nussey. Frinsted ch. 
 has been lately restored. Wriiisted 
 Court, in this parish, is the residence 
 of E. Pemberton Leigh, Esq. : at 
 Bicknor is Bicknor Place (T. White- 
 head, Usq.). 
 
 The drive from HoUingbourne 
 to Frinsted, between steep, wood- 
 
 covered hills, is veiy picturesque. 
 At Milsted, a short distance N. of 
 Frinsted, is a ch. with Trans. Norm, 
 portions, and some relics of stained 
 glass. Adioining is Milsted Manor 
 (Sir John Maxwell Tylden). 
 
 The ch. of Huekinge, 1 m. N. of 
 Hollingi)ourne, has Norm, portions.] 
 
 Proceeding E. from Leeds, and 
 still sldrting the little stream of the 
 Len, Harrietsliam (Heriard's- or 
 Hariarde's-ham — Domes.) is reached, 
 7 m. from Maidstone. The large 
 ch., which has latelj' been restored, 
 has an E. E. chancel, the rest being 
 chiefly Perjj. Kemark the font, of 
 which the shape is unusual. On 
 the high ground above the village 
 is Stede Hall (W. Baldwin, Esq.), 
 from which a noble view over the 
 Weald is commanded. 
 
 The Church of Lenliam, 8 m., is of 
 more importance, and should not be 
 left imvisited. The main chancel is 
 E. E. with alterations, and retains 
 its ancient oaken stalls. On the N. 
 side, recessed in the wall, is the 
 etfigy of a priest (temp. Edw. III. ?) 
 lying on the rt. side in an unusual 130- 
 sition. Eemark the piscina, a Perp. 
 insertion, placed under a very mde 
 arch. The main point of interest, 
 however, is the stone chair, or sedile, 
 on the S. side of the chancel, with 
 solid arms, and a cinquefoil-headed 
 canopy of much later date. 1. is a 
 lower seat, much smaller, aiid with- 
 out ornament. The well-known chair 
 in Corhampton ch. is ruder and 
 earlier ; but this of Ijenham is well 
 worth attention. The rest of the 
 ch. is Peip. There is a good oaken 
 lectern, and a richly-carved pulijit of 
 17tli century work. 
 
 The manor of Lcnham, to which 
 the ch. was attached, was granted 
 to St. Augustine's, Canterburj', in 
 804, by Cenulf king of Mercia, and 
 Cucbx'd king of Kent. It continued 
 in possession of the Abbey vnitil the 
 dissolution. Tlie parish stretclies 
 across the valley between the chalk 
 and the sand-hills; but enjoys no
 
 Kent. 
 
 Eoute 5. — Linton Place. — Bougldon. 
 
 95 
 
 very high reputation, agriciUtural or 
 sanitary. " Ah, sir, poor Lenham ! "' 
 is the traditional reply of its inhabit- 
 ants to travellers inquiring the name 
 of the village. Two important springs 
 rise here. At Street Well, in the chalk, 
 is one of the heads of the river 8tom-, 
 ■which runs from hence to Ashford, 
 where it is joined by the stream 
 flowing from the hills above Lyiune. 
 At Eivell, on the W. side of the 
 parish, the Len (brook) rises from 
 the sand-rock, and runs W. to join 
 the Med way at Maidstone. 
 
 S. of Lenham is Bougldon Mal- 
 Jierhe, in which parish is Cliilstone 
 Park (J. S. Douglas, Esq.). See 
 Ete. 7. 
 
 [2^ m. N.E. of Lenham, standing 
 high among the chalk-hills, is Otter- 
 den Place (Rev. C. Wheeler), jiartly 
 of the time of Henry VIII. It com- 
 mands wide views over the wooded 
 country toward Faversham, with 
 distant glimpses of the Channel. 
 The ch. is a wonderful structure, 
 built in 1753 on the site of an an- 
 cient one dedicated to St. LaAvrence, 
 from which some 17th century mo- 
 numents of Lewins and Curteises 
 (former possessors of Otterden) were 
 removed, and are here preserved. 
 For Doddington, see Ete. 4.] 
 
 From Lenham, as before sug- 
 gested, the route may be continued 
 either tlu'ough Charing, 13 m. from 
 Maidstone, to Ashford, 6 m.; or by 
 Chilham to Caiderhury, about 15 m. 
 For Charing and Chilham, see Ete. 8 ; 
 for Ashford, Ete. 7. 
 
 A short but very pleasant excur- 
 sion may be made from Maidstone 
 through the village of Loose to 
 Linton, 4 m. 
 
 The stream wliich runs through 
 the little village of Loose, " sullen " 
 like the Mole, flows underground 
 for about 5 m. of its course, disap- 
 pearing at Brishing, above the vil- 
 lage. Loose itself, siu-rounded by 
 hop-groimds, stands picturesquely 
 on the hill-side ; but is exceeded hi 
 
 interest by the village of Linton, 
 I5 m., lying beyond Coxhcath, one 
 of the tenqjorary Aldershotts of the 
 last centiu-y. In 1778 15,000 troops 
 were encamped on it. 
 
 Linton Flace (Earl Cornwallis) 
 well deserves a visit for the sake of 
 its noble view. "The house is fine," 
 wrote (1757) Walpole to Sir H. 
 Mann, whose elder brother then pos- 
 sessed it, " and stands like the cita- 
 del of Kent. The whole county is 
 its garden. So rich a j^rospect scarce 
 wants my Thames." Linton passed 
 from the Manns by marriage into the 
 Cornwallis family. The body of Sir 
 Horace Mann, WaliJole's correspond- 
 ent, was brought from Florence, 
 where he died (178(;), and buried in 
 Linton ch. In 17p8 Walpole had 
 himself erected a monmnent here for 
 Galfridus Mann, brother of Sir 
 Horace, which the visitor may still 
 criticise. "The thought was my 
 own," he writes, " adapted from the 
 antique columljaria, and applied to 
 Gothic. The execution of the de- 
 sign was Mr. Bentley's, who alone of 
 all mankind could unite the grace 
 of Grecian architecture and the irre- 
 gidar lightness and solemnity of 
 
 Gothic The soifete is more 
 
 beautiful than anything of either 
 
 style separate Tlie tu-n is of 
 
 marble, richly polished ; the rest of 
 stone. On the whole I think there 
 is simplicity and decency, with a 
 degi'ee of ornament that destroys 
 neither." This Strawberry Hill de- 
 scription is at least as remarkable 
 as the urn itself. Some later monu- 
 ments for the Coniwallis family, by 
 Bailey, will be noticed for very dif- 
 ferent reasons. 
 
 At Bougldon MoncJielsea, a short 
 distance beyond Linton (where, in a 
 fissure, the late Dr. Buckland dis- 
 covered remains of hya>na), and in 
 many of the adjoining parishes, quar- 
 ries of the "Kentish rag" are ex- 
 tensively worked. This rock forms 
 the lowest stratum of the "lower 
 grecnsand," and consists of alternate
 
 96 
 
 Route 6. — London to Sevenoaks. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 beds of siliceous sandstone and lime- 
 stone, closely resembling the " Bar- 
 gate-stone " of Siurey. The Kentish 
 rag has been worked and used from a 
 very early ptriod. The foundations 
 of the Temple of Diana, discovered 
 by Sir Christopher Wren under the 
 site of old St. Paid's, were of this 
 stone : and the walls of numerous 
 cluu-clies throughout the county are 
 built of it, as are those of nearly all 
 oastles and ecclesiastical buildings 
 bordering t]ie Thames and tlie Med- 
 way. Owing to its great hard- 
 ness, balls for catapidts and other 
 engines of mediaeval warfare were 
 made fi-om it ; and 7000 cannon- 
 balls were worked out of the " Maid- 
 stone quarries " at the order of 
 Henry VI. 
 
 For Merewortli, and the rich line 
 of countiT traversed by the branch 
 railway from Paddock Wood to 
 Maidstone, see Etc. 7. The 7 m. 
 between Mereworth and Maidstone 
 were pronounced by Cobbett the 
 " finest in Kent," and are witliout 
 doubt almost imequalled in fer- 
 tility. The carefid garden cultiva- 
 tion of Belgium is here seen, with 
 the additional advantage of a pic- 
 ttu-esque country. 
 
 For the places of interest between 
 Maidstone and Sevenoaks, 18 m., 
 .see Kte. 6. 
 
 Thence by omnibus (running daily) 
 to Sevenoaks. 
 
 ROUTE 6. 
 
 LONDON TO SEVENOAKS. 
 
 By tlie Mid-Kent Eailway (Lon- 
 don Bridge station) to I5eckenham. 
 
 The line to Beckenham, after 
 leaving tlie Lewisham Junction, fol- 
 lows the course of tlie Bavensbourne, 
 a streandet that, uniting with the 
 Kid below Lewisham, falls into tjie 
 Thames between Deptford and 
 Greenwich. 
 
 [From the Lewisham station, Ell- 
 ham, 3 m., may be visited. It is 
 4 m. from Greenwich and from 
 Blacklieath. 
 
 Eltham {eald-ham, the old home 
 or dwelling) is chiefly interesting as 
 having been a royal residence of the 
 kings of England from the days of 
 Henry HI. (1271) to those of Henry 
 VIII., who, in 1527, or sliortly after, 
 neglected it for his new palace at 
 Greenwich. The principal remain- 
 ing jjortions of the palace are, — the 
 hanqueting-hall, a noble apartment, 
 with its magnificent roof of oak, por- 
 tions of its music gallery, its two 
 unequalled bays, and its series of 
 double windows on cither side, still 
 in good preservation ; the huttenj 
 (now the residence of Riclid. Blox- 
 am, Esq.), with its beautiful cor- 
 belled attics and ancient barge- 
 board gables ; the iv\'-covered hridfje, 
 with its three ril^bed arches, span- 
 ning the moat on the N. side ; the 
 curious drains, formerly used as sall)'- 
 ports in cases of emergency; an<l 
 the battlemented wall, flanked with 
 loopholed turrets. As a specimen of 
 domestic architecture of the time of 
 Edward IV. (whose devices, the fal- 
 con and fetterlock and the rose en 
 soleil, may still be discovered among 
 the carvings of the doorway and 
 oriel windows), the baiiqueting- 
 hall is of great interest. It was 
 rescued from speedy decay by repairs 
 undertaken by order of government 
 in 1828, when 700?. were expended 
 on it, though it is still degraded into 
 a barn, as it has been for more than 
 a centur}\ Yet it was on this site 
 that our Edwards and Henrvs were
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route G. — Eltham. — Beckeniiam. 
 
 97 
 
 wont to keeiD their Christmas with 
 splendoiu- and feasting, and that par- 
 liaments and great councils of the 
 realm were frequently held. Edward 
 III. sumptuously entertained here 
 (1364) his former prisoner, John 
 Kmg of France. Eichard II. here 
 received Leo King of Armenia, when 
 driven out of his dominions by 
 the Turks ; and Froissart, the his- 
 torian, was present in the court 
 at Eltham during the same reign. 
 Queen Elizabeth, when a baby, 
 was frequently brought over here 
 for change of air from her birth- 
 place at Greenwich, which, how- 
 ever, like her royal father, she pre- 
 ferred as a residence. Diuing the 
 civil war the palace of Eltham was 
 occupied by the Earl of Essex, who 
 died here 1()46 ; an^ it was bestowed 
 by Charles II., after the restoration, 
 on Sir John Shaw, for services ren- 
 dered at Brussels and Antwerp. It 
 continues in his family, although a 
 l^ortion of laud originally in the royal 
 park is still vested in the crown. 
 
 The hall goes by the name of 
 " King John's Bai-n," perhaps from 
 some confusion with a son of Edward 
 II., called " John of Eltham," wlio 
 was born here, and died young. One 
 of the titles of 'the Prince of Wales 
 is Earl of Eltham. 
 
 Subterranean passages have been 
 traced for some 100 yards in a south- 
 easterly du-ection. The moat, which 
 still surrounds the entire building, 
 has been partially drained and turfed. 
 Many foundations of walls remain 
 witliin its area. An archway in the 
 palace " pleasaunce," now occupied 
 by a market-gardener, is worthy of 
 notice, as being the entrance to the 
 old tilt-yard or tilting-coiu-t. 
 
 The Church of Eltham is an ugly 
 building, the greater part of which 
 is modern, the spire an<l N. aisle 
 being the only ancient parts re- 
 maining. In the churchyard is the 
 tomb, marked by an urn, of George 
 Home, Bp. of Norwich (d. 1792), 
 
 IKent & Sussex.^ 
 
 the connnentator on the Psalms ; 
 and that of Doggett, the comedian 
 (d. 1721), joint manager of Drury 
 Lane with Wilks and Gibber, wlio 
 Itequeathed the coat and badge for 
 which tlie " jolly yoxmg watermen " 
 of the Thames still contend an- 
 nually. '■ Congreve," says Cibber, 
 " was a great admirer of Doggett, 
 and foiuid his account in the cha- 
 racters he expressly wrote for him. 
 In those of Fondlewife in the ' Old 
 Bachelor,' and Ben in ' Love for 
 Love,' no author and actor could 
 be more obliged to tlieh mutual 
 masterly performances." Sir Wil- 
 liam James, the conqueror of Severn- 
 droog, whose " castle " stands con- 
 spicuously on Shooter's Hill, above 
 Eltliam, was also biu'ied here. 
 
 Vandyke, during his life in Eng- 
 land, had a summer residence at 
 Eltliam. The Philipotts, authors of 
 the ' Survey of Kent,' were natives of 
 this place. John Lilbourne, famous 
 for his eccentric movements dur- 
 ing the " general eclipse " of the 
 civil wars, at last turned Quaker and 
 settled here, where he died in 1057. 
 Dr. Sherard, tlie botanist, lived here 
 during the early part of the last cen- 
 tury ; and Dillenius, whom Sherard 
 had laronght to England, and whom 
 he afterwards appointed the first 
 Professor of Botany in the chair 
 founded by him at Oxford, spent 
 much of liis tmiehere, and pidjlished 
 a catalogue of Sherard's plants with 
 the title 'Hurtus Elthamensis.' The 
 house in which Sherard lived still 
 exists.] 
 
 The scenery on the Jlid-Kent rail- 
 way is of no great interest imtil 
 
 12 m. Beckenham is reached. 
 (For Stjdenham see Handbook for 
 Surrey, &g.) 
 
 The village of Beckenham (the 
 home by the bee or brookj is plea- 
 santly old-fashioned, and well shel- 
 tered by thick masses of trees, from 
 tlie midst of which rises the white 
 church-spire. The building itself
 
 98 
 
 Route G . — Beckenham. — Bromley. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 has been hideously clnux'liAvardeii- 
 isod, and is of little interest. It 
 contains some modem monuments 
 tor the families of Hoare and Auck- 
 land; and a tablet, the design of 
 which, at least, may be commended, 
 for Capt. Hedley Vicars, of tlie 'J7th 
 regt., who fell at Sebastoiiol. The 
 lich-gate remains, at the end of a 
 line of clipped yews, opening to the 
 S. porch. In the churcliyard is the 
 tomb of Edward King (d. 1807), 
 author of the ' Munimenta Antiqua,' 
 Avho resided here for many years. 
 An earlier celebrity of Btckenham 
 was Margaret Finch, queen of the 
 gipsies, buried here in 1740. She 
 lived to the age of 109, and during 
 the latter part of her life settled at 
 Norwood, then a favourite restiag- 
 j)!aco with the " tribes of the wan- 
 dering foot." " From a habit of 
 sitting on the ground with her chin 
 resting on her knees, the sinews at 
 length became so contracted, that 
 'she could not rise from that posture. 
 After her death they were ol)liged to 
 enclose her body in a deep s<]uare 
 box. Her funeral was attended by 
 two mourning-coaches, a sermon was 
 preached upon the occasion, and a 
 great concourse of people attended 
 the ceremony." — Lyscms. Another 
 queen of the Norwood gipsies was 
 l)uried at Dulwich in 17(J8. How 
 far the royal title was in either case 
 more than one of com'tesy seems very 
 doubtful, and can only be decided 
 by a skilful Romany " Lavengro." 
 
 In the neighbourhood are Bn-lien- 
 liam Flare (Peter Cator, Esq.), Kel- 
 sey I'urh (P. E. Hoare, Esq.), Laiig- 
 Ity Farm (Lancelot Holland, Esq.), 
 and Langley Park (E. Goodhart, 
 Esq.). 
 
 [A very pleasant vxdk may be 
 taken from Beckenham to Bromley, 
 and thence by Sundridge to Cliisle- 
 hurnt. A field-path, keeping the 
 bank of the Ravensbourne, leads to 
 IJromley, whence the tourist may 
 proceed to Chislchurst by the main 
 
 track, a very beautiful road, or find 
 his way by tlie footpath on the 1. to 
 Sundridge, where, in the sand-pits in 
 and about the park, characteristic 
 fossils are abundant. For this place 
 and Chislehurst, see jMsfJ} 
 
 A steep, hilly road leads from 
 Beckenham to Bromley, 2 m., where 
 the old high road from London is 
 entered. Bromley still vindicates 
 its name ; since tlie golden flowers 
 of the broom brighten some few 
 sjjots here in the early spring, al- 
 though tlie larger portion has disap- 
 peared. The town stands very 
 pleasantly on high ground, from 
 which good views are commanded 
 to the W. and S.W. It was granted to 
 the Clunch of Rochester at an early 
 period, and the original grant was 
 confirmed by Edgar in 907, together 
 with considerable riglits in the 
 " Andredeswald " — the great forest 
 of the Weald. Bp. Gundulf built 
 a palace here soon after the Con- 
 quest, wliich was much improved by 
 his successors. The present build- 
 ing, however, dates only from 1770, 
 wlieii it was completed by Bp. 
 Thomas, who entirely pulled down 
 tlie old palace " among the elms," 
 visited by Walpole in 1752 " for the 
 sake of the chimney in wliich had 
 stood a flower-pot, in which was put 
 the counterfeit iilot against Bp. 
 Sprat." The flower-pot itself was 
 preserved at Matsou, in Gloucester- 
 shire, the scat of George Selwyn. 
 ( For details of this famous plot, the 
 design of which was to brand the 
 bisliop as a Jacobite, see Macaulay, 
 vol. iii.) Altliougli the palace had 
 been improved by Bj). Atterbm'y, 
 the successor of Sprat, whom Pope 
 frequently visited here, it is called by 
 Walpule " a paltry parsonage." Its 
 successor, a plain brick mansion, 
 stands pleasantly on the brow of tlie 
 hill ; but althougli still called the 
 Palace, it is no longer the property of 
 the bishops, nor even in the see of 
 Rochester. It is at present the resi-
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route G. — Bromley. — Su)idrid<je Park. 
 
 99 
 
 dence of Coles' Cbikl, Esq., the lord 
 of the manor, wlio purchased it from 
 the commissioners when the see was 
 enlarged, and the episcopal resi- 
 dence iixed at Dauhmy in Essex. 
 Bromley is now in tlie diocese of 
 Canterbury. In the garden of tlie 
 old palace ivas the "clear little 
 pond teeming with gold fish " wljich 
 rivalled tlie Strawberry Po-Yang. 
 " The bishop," says Walpole, " is 
 more prolific than 1 am." Witiiont, 
 in the grounds, till lately, existed 
 St. Blaize's Well, near wliich a small 
 oratory formerly stood, of which no 
 traces remain. Tiicro is a rather 
 powerful chalybeate at the head of 
 tlic largest pond. 
 
 The Church, mainly Pcrp. and 
 containing a Norm, font, is of little 
 interest, having been mainly rebuilt 
 in 1829, with the exception of the 
 tower, the only part wliich has any 
 architectm-al merit. The E. window 
 has lately been filled with stained 
 glass by Willement. Bp. Pearce, tlie 
 editor of Longinus (d. 1774), and Bp. 
 Youge (d. 1605), are both buried here. 
 In the nave is the gravestone of 
 Dr. Johnson's wife " Tetty," so fre- 
 quently mentioned in his devotions. 
 She was buried here by tlie direction 
 of Dr. Hawksworth, the friend of 
 Jolmson, wlio resided at Bromley, 
 and to whom the disposition of lier 
 remains had been intrusted. The 
 Latin epitaph, in which she is de- 
 scribed as " formosa, culta, ingeni- 
 osa, pia," is by Johnscni himself, and 
 was written a short time before his 
 own deatli. In tlie N. aisle is the 
 monument of Dr. Hawkswortli, prin- 
 cipal author of ' The Adventurer,' a 
 pa.ssage from the 140th No. of which 
 forms the inscription. Brass: Isa- 
 bella, wife of Kie. Lacer, Loril Mayor 
 of Tjondon, i;>r){J. 
 
 From a field a few steps beyond 
 the ciiurcli N. is a good view look- 
 ing across Beckenliam to the Crystal 
 Palace and the heights of Penge. 
 Bromley Colle(je, a large red 
 
 brick building at tlie N. end of the 
 town, was founded by J^p. Warner 
 (d. 1G6(J) for " 20 widows of loyal 
 and ortiiodox clergymen." Its re- 
 soui-ces have been considerably in- 
 creased by later contributions, and 
 it now aifords 40 widows an allow- 
 ance of 38Z. a year each, with a sepa- 
 rate residence. Tlie buildings were 
 put into thorougli repair in 1765, 
 500?. having been bequeathed fur 
 the purpose by the mother of Gene- 
 ral Wolfe. Tiie college was the first 
 of its kind established in England, 
 but was sj^eedily imitated at Win- 
 chester by Bp. Morley, at Salisbm-y 
 and at Froxfield in Wilts by the 
 Ducliess of Somerset. In the chapel 
 here is a good whole-length jjoi'trait 
 of Bp. Warner. 
 
 [In the neighboiu-liood of Bromley 
 are Plaistow Lod<ie (Robert Boyd, 
 Esq.), BUMeij P'urh (Wm. Dent, 
 Esq.), and Snitdridije (Samuel Scott, 
 Esq.). Tliis last place may be visited 
 in a walk from Brtunley to Chisle- 
 hm-st — an exciu-sion much to be re- 
 commended. Tlie Kentish lane, 
 hung with w^ild fiowers and over- 
 shadowed by oak-l;)ranches, through 
 which the tourist will make his way, 
 is a very beautiful one. 
 
 " One of the most interesting 
 loealitirs I am acquainted -with is 
 Sundridge Park, where a hard con- 
 glomerate, entirely made up of 
 oyster-shells ('?), and the shingle 
 that formed tlieir native bed, is quar- 
 ried.' (The quarries are not, liow- 
 ever, in the park.) " Tliis stone 
 is much employed for ornamental 
 rock-work, and several walls in 
 and near Bromley are constructed 
 of it : these display the fossils 
 some witii the valves closed, others 
 open, others detached, and the 
 wliole grouped as if artificially em- 
 bedded to expose tlie characters 
 of tlie shells. Tliese oyster-beds 
 b( long to the tertiary strata of the 
 London basin ; tliey extend to Plum- 
 stead and otlier places in tlie viei- 
 
 F 2
 
 100 
 
 Eoute G. — ■Chalk-pits. — Chishhurst. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 nity ; and in some localities the 
 oystcTS are associated with other 
 liivalves, called PectunculL" — Man- 
 tell. The British strata yield be- 
 tween 40 and 50 species of fossil 
 oyst.TS. Those found at Sundridge 
 very closely resemble the Tlianies 
 "natives," their modern descendants. 
 
 A short distance before the tour- 
 ist reaches Cliislehurst Common he 
 will pass over a small stream (tlie 
 Kid?), one of the tributaries to the 
 river Eavensbourne, spanned by a 
 single-arclied bridge of very early 
 date, probably coeval with the N. 
 wall of the church (about 12(;0), and 
 on reaching tlie common he will 
 see 1. 
 
 Camden Place (Mrs. Martin), for- 
 merly the summer residence of tlie 
 great antiquary Camden —Ben Jon- 
 son's 
 
 "... mcist reverend head, to whom I owe 
 All that 1 am hi arts, all that I know. 
 How nothing's that! to whom my country 
 
 owes 
 The great renown and name wherewith she 
 
 goes ! " 
 
 The place itself was named by Cam- 
 den, who first piuchased it in 1(J09. 
 He is said to have written liis 'An- 
 nals of Queen Elizabetli ' here ; and 
 certainly died here in 1G23. He was 
 interred in Westminster Abbey. Lord 
 Chancellor Pratt was raised to the 
 peerage in 17(J5 by the title of Baron 
 Camden of Camden Place, which was 
 sold by his son and successor. 
 
 Throngliout this district the re- 
 markable chalk-])its, already noticed 
 at E. Tilbury (Kte. 1) and 'at Cray- 
 ford and Dartford (Kte. 2), are fre- 
 quent. They are liere called 
 " drawpits," and resemble very 
 closely tliose already descriljeil, 
 being circular, well-like excavations, 
 from 20 to 50 feet in depth, and 
 expanding at tlie bottom, or running 
 out into short passages. Tiiey are 
 liere very numerous, iind their situa- 
 tions so little known tliat accidents 
 arc not mifre<|uently caused by 
 
 tliem. In tlie summer of 1857 one 
 of these pits in the lower part of 
 Camden Park, which had become 
 tilled up by surface drainage, was 
 excavated witii great care, in the 
 hope of tlirowing some light on its 
 history. The diameter of the aper- 
 ture measured 1 1 feet, and its height 
 17 feet, with a slightly concave 
 base, cu-cular and tool-cut. At the 
 bottom was discovered a mass of 
 bones of animals of various si^ecies, 
 among wliich were some entire 
 skeletons, one of tlie lioi'se, others 
 of the pig and ox (the head appear- 
 ing to be that of Bos longifrons), 
 several dogs, and some wolves (the 
 jaws distinguishing them from the 
 dog). Jaws of deer and roe, and a 
 few delicate and jjerfect skulls of 
 the hedgehog were also found ; and 
 throughout the mass great quanti- 
 ties offresliwater shelh {Helix nenio- 
 ralis). All were the bones of exist- 
 ing races, excepting that supposed 
 to be Bos longifrons ; but from their 
 decomposing state when submitted 
 to the action of the atmosijhere, it 
 was clear that they had rested where 
 they were found for ce-nturies. Im- 
 mediately above the bones, masses 
 of squared chalk and large flint were 
 found, thus leading to the conclu- 
 sion that the various animals, in 
 traversing the woods, had fallen in 
 through the aperture, and that after 
 a lapse of time the stemming of the 
 jut had given way and buried their 
 skeletons. Among the bones were 
 discovered six distinct portions of 
 early pottery, British and Koman, 
 together with a fragment of red 
 iSaniian ware. The very early origin 
 of these pits is tlius satisfactorily 
 established, althougli their purpose 
 still remains somewhat uncertain. 
 (See Etes. 1 and 2.) 
 
 The village of Cliislehurst (Sax. 
 Ceosil, a pebble ; the " stony-hurst " 
 or wood) is situated on one of tlie 
 most beautiful commons in Kent, 
 covered with furze and heather,
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 6. — Chishliurst. — Hayes. 
 
 101 
 
 surrounded by magnificent trees, 
 and about 300 ft. above the sea. Near 
 the ch. are the remains of the an- 
 cient cockjjit, where cook-fights took 
 place, and otlier now obsok-te games 
 were played. Here also the may- 
 pole probably stood. The Church, 
 dedicated to St. Nicholas, is a most 
 picturesque oltject, chiefly Perp., the 
 N. wall and font being E. E. The 
 chancel was rebuilt in 1849, and a 
 new S. aisle added. The spire and 
 bells were destroyed by fire in 
 March, 1857, but have since been 
 restored. Of the Monuments, re- 
 mark that of Sir Edmund (d. 1549) 
 and Sk Thomas Walsingham (d. 
 1630), erected by the last before 
 his death tci the memory of his 
 father, Sir Edmund, and also serv- 
 ing as his own monument. The 
 tomb is decorated with gilt foliage 
 and a canopy. A poetical inscription 
 under the first arch indicates that 
 Sir Thomas was but an indifferent 
 versifier : the first lines run — 
 
 " A knight, sometime of wurthie fame, 
 Lyeih buried under this stoiiie bower; 
 Sir Edmund Wiilsingbam was his name. 
 Lieutenant he was of London Tower." 
 
 The Walsingharas (who had, how- 
 ever, before this been resident at 
 Chisleliurst) received a lease of the 
 manor from Elizabeth, and Sir 
 Francis Walsingham, tlie great 
 statesman, was born liere, but in 
 what year is uncertain. The Wal- 
 singham tomb is at the end of the 
 N. aisle ; and over the arch divid- 
 ing it from the nave are the cog- 
 nizances of Edward IV. (a falcon 
 and stirrup) and of Henry VII. 
 (the rose and crown), with the dates 
 1422 and 1460. In the S. aisle 
 is the monument of Sir Philip War- 
 wick, " an acceptable servant to 
 Charles I. in all his exti-emities, and 
 a ftiithful one to King Charles II." 
 After Ids retirement from public af- 
 fairs in 1667, he fixed his residence 
 at Frognal, near Chisleliurst, where 
 he died in 1682. His 'Memoirs of 
 
 Charles I.' rank among the most 
 valuable and authentic records of 
 the time. 
 
 Tlie eh. contains numerous otlier 
 monuments, but of no great interest. 
 In tlie churchyard is the tundj of Mr. 
 Bonar, wlio was mmdered here with 
 his wife by their servant. 
 
 Sir Nicholas Bacon, the Lord 
 Keeper, and father of the great Lord 
 Veridam, is another of tlie Eliza- 
 bethan worthii s who confer a grave 
 ah of ruffs and trunk-hose on Cliisle- 
 hiu'st. He was born here, but in 
 what year is uncertain. 
 
 Frognal, Sir Philip Warwick's an- 
 cient place, is now the seat of Ijord 
 Sydney, in whose family it has been 
 since 1760. The whole neighbour- 
 hood is veiy pleasant and pictur- 
 esque ; abounding in the green 
 wooded hills that make one of the 
 especial bt auties of Kent. The Mid- 
 Kent railway is continued to St. Mary 
 Cray. For the drive along the stream 
 of the Cray, from here to Crayford, 
 one of the pkasantest in the countv, 
 see Ete. 2.] 
 
 The road from Bromhy to Seven- 
 oaks, 14 m., is a perpetual succes- 
 sion of landscapes ; such as will 
 give the tomist the most agreeable 
 impression of the county into which 
 he is advancing. ^ m. bt yond Brom- 
 ley a lane rt. leads to tlie village of 
 ITcnjes, 1^ m., to be visited by all 
 who reverence the memory of the 
 great Lord Chatham. Hayes Flace 
 (now occupied by Miss Traill), where 
 Lord Chatl'.am died, and wliere his 
 not less illustrious son William Pitt 
 was born in 1759, stands close to the 
 ch., and is a white brick building of 
 no great beauty or pretence. It was 
 purchased in 1757 from the Har- 
 risons by Lord Chatham, who built 
 the present house. It owes its 
 brick casing, however, to the Hon. 
 Thomas Walpole, to whom tlic jilaco 
 was sold in 1766; but in tlie following 
 year Lord Chatham became greatly 
 desirous of retm-ning to Hayes,
 
 102 
 
 Route 6. — Hayes. — " dcsar's Camp.'' Sect. I. 
 
 ■where " in former years he had made 
 improvements whicli his memory 
 fondly recalled ; plantations for ex- 
 ample pursued with so much ardour 
 and eagerness tliat they were not 
 even interrupted at niohttall, hut 
 were continued by torchliglit and 
 witii relavs of labourers." — Lord 
 SUuihope, Hist. Eng., v. 283. (Tlie 
 bi.lts thus planted are still jiointed 
 out at Hayes.) TJie estate was 
 accordingly reconveyed to him ; atid 
 it continued his favourite residence 
 for the remainder of his life. The 
 park is not large, tliough pleasant ; 
 and a sti-eam which joins the 
 Eavensbourne near Bromley passes 
 througli it. 
 
 Hayes Church is a small E. E. 
 building of no great interest. It 
 has been lately enlarged under the 
 direction of Mr. G. Seott, when it 
 was found tliat tlie old walls were 
 constructed of remnants of Roman 
 tiles. In the chancel are hung the 
 banners used at the pnl>lic funeral 
 of Chatl lam. Brasses : John Heygge, 
 rector, 1525 ; John Andrew ; John 
 Osteler (no date)— all of small sizi». 
 
 [2 m. beyond Hayes is West Wick- 
 hnin, where is an interesting ch. : 
 and Wichlmm Court, a turretcd 
 manor-house, dating from the reign 
 of Henry VII. Eor these places, 
 whicli are best readied from Croy- 
 don, see Handhooh for Surreij, (fcc] 
 
 2 ra. from Bromley, a road rt. 
 branches off to Westcrham, 10 m. 
 The scenery is very beautiful, and 
 tlie toiu'ist in search of the pictur- 
 esque will liardly go wrong, whe- 
 tlier lie continues in tlie direct line 
 to Sevenoaks, or turns off here, and 
 crosses to Sevenoaks from Wester- 
 ham (see post). KestrDi, 1 m., on 
 the Westerliam road, lias a small 
 Norm, and E. E. c]i. Considerable 
 remains of Roman villas, &c., were 
 lately found in a field on the rt. of 
 the Westerliam road, as it leaves 
 Keston Common, the view from 
 wliieh is of extreme beauty. In the 
 
 angle between the village of Keston 
 and tlie Sevenoaks road are Hol- 
 ivood Hill and Hohvood House (built 
 by Jolm Ward, Esq., but now the 
 residence of the Lord Chancellor), 
 long tlie favourite residence of Wil- 
 liam Pitt, the gi-eat minister, avIio 
 was born at Hayes Place, about 
 1 m. distant, and who took great 
 pleasure in planting and laying out 
 the gr(5unds here. Tlie present 
 Iiouse dates only from 1823, wlien 
 tliat in whicli Pitt resided, a small 
 brick and plaster building, was 
 pulled down. 
 
 On the brow of the hill, and com- 
 manding an extensive view on evtiy 
 side (for which it should be ascended 
 even if the tourist have no antiqua- 
 rian bent), are tlie remains of a very 
 large and imjiortant fortification, 
 called " Caesar's Camp," which is 
 now generally thought to mark the 
 site of tlie ancient Noviomagus, a 
 Brito-Roman town in the ti rritories 
 of the Regni. The form of the en- 
 closm-e was oblong, with tri^jle dykes 
 and trenches, surrounding nearly 
 100 acres, a size altogether unusual. 
 Tiie external vallmn was about 2 m. 
 in circuit, but the largest portions 
 were many years since levelled ; the 
 S. parts now alone remain. [Ilorsehj 
 (Brit. Rom.) remarks tliat the largest 
 station he knew of was " not a tenth 
 part of this compass." We have here, 
 however, the site of a town, probably 
 of British origin ; and not of a 
 merely military station such as 
 Rutuiiia3 (Richborough) or Regnl- 
 biuin (Reculver). TJie walls of the 
 great to\vn of C.dleva (Silchester) 
 are nearly 3 m. in circuit.] Part of 
 tlie fortifications have been much 
 injured, anel the rc'st are overgrown 
 with wood ; but sufficient remains 
 to indicate their ancient conditieni 
 and impe>rtance. Roman bricks anel 
 tiles, together with various coins of 
 the midelle and lower empire, are 
 constantly founel here ; as well as 
 the foundations of buildings, many
 
 Kent. 
 
 Fioute G. — Farnhorough. — Gravel Bed. 
 
 103 
 
 of which were exposed in 1856, 
 across the valley towards Baston. 
 Layers of Eoinan bricks and tih's 
 appear in the towers of several of 
 the village churches in the neigh- 
 bourhood. The Eoman Watling 
 Street, after crossing Blackheath, 
 passed to this town of Noviomagiis, 
 and then turned northward, over 
 Sydenham Connnon to Tjondon. 
 
 One of tlie som-ces of the Eavens- 
 boui-ne rises close without the W. 
 side of the entrenchments. The 
 spring has been enlarged, and 
 formed into a basin. 
 
 Tlie village of Farnhorovgh, 4 m. 
 fiom Bromley, need not dt-lay the 
 tom-ist. The ch. was rebuilt after 
 1639. Adjoining the village is High 
 Elms (Sir Joliu Lubbock), who has 
 founded, aiid supports, excellent 
 infant-schools in this and the neigh- 
 bouring parishes. 
 
 The high road from London as 
 far as Farnborougli passes over 
 lower tertiary beds, excejjt that a 
 small bed of drift gravel occurs 
 here and there. At Farnborough, 
 however, the chalk crops out ui)on 
 the surface. Immediately lieyoud 
 is the hamlet of Green Street Green ; 
 and if the geologist here turns to 
 the 1. of the main road, and ascends 
 Well Hill, he will be amply repaid 
 for his exertions. 
 
 Green Street Green itself is situ- 
 ated in a trough which has been 
 excavated out of the chalk, and 
 whicli is partly occujned by a deposit 
 of " drift" gravel. This ""drift" is a 
 coarse clayey gravel containing flints 
 of two sorts, both of which have been 
 excavated by the action of water 
 from the chalk in which tliey wei-e 
 formed. The one sort, liowever, has, 
 after its removal fi-om tlie chalk, been 
 subject ordy to wear and tear suffi- 
 cient to render blunt the sharp edges. 
 The second description of flints has 
 a different history. They have been 
 obtained from tlie strata called the 
 " Woolwich and Blaekiieatli pebble- 
 
 beds ;" and having been subject to 
 great and long-continued action of 
 water, are reduced to tlie form of 
 round pebbles. Bones and tusks of 
 the mammoth (Elephas primi- 
 genius) have been found in this 
 gravel. 
 
 Ascending the hill toward Cliels- 
 field, we soon rise above the drift 
 gravel, and come again to the chalk, 
 which may be seen in tlie little 
 cuttings along the side of the road 
 until beyond the village. 
 
 When, however, we have got more 
 than halfway up the hill, the lower 
 tertiary strata, which we had left at 
 Farnljorougli, reappear on the top of 
 the chalk, and are well exposed by 
 the cuttings along the sides of 
 several of the lanes which ascend 
 the hill. They must therefore at 
 one period have extended over the 
 intermediate space, from which they 
 have since been removed. Further, 
 the extreme top of the hill is capped 
 by a deposit of very peculiar gravel, 
 which is quite distinct from tliC 
 " Woolwich and Blackheath" pebble- 
 beds on the one hand, and from the 
 lower level drift, such as that at 
 Green Street Green, on the other. 
 The flints are less rolled than those 
 of the formtr stratti, and more so 
 than those of the latter. Tlie whole 
 gravel is very white, and contains, 
 besides the flints, pieces of chert 
 and Ihts of quiirtz from the green- 
 sands which lie S. This very re- 
 markable bed of gravel was first 
 introduced to the notice of geologists 
 by Mr. Prestwich, and suggests 
 many interesting reflections. 
 
 In the first place, it is only 200 or 
 300 square yards in extent, and there 
 is no other bed of gravel in the 
 innnediate neighbourhood ofl'ering 
 similar characters. It is the only re- 
 maining I'cpresentative of a stratum 
 all the rest of which has perished ; 
 and oft'ers in fact a page in the 
 history of the district, which but 
 for this shght record would have
 
 10-i 
 
 Route 6. — Chelsfield. — Chevening. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 been entirely obliterated. Secourlly, 
 though it is now the highest hill in 
 the neighbourhood, yet, as gravel 
 can only be formed by water, and 
 water will only remain in hollows, it 
 must, at a recent period in geolo- 
 gical time have been at a very low 
 level. This suV)ject will, however, 
 be amplj' treated in the forthcoming 
 work of Mr. Prestwicli (who has 
 already so well described the ter- 
 tiary strata) ' On the Drift Gravels 
 of the S.E. of England,' whicli is 
 anxiously expected by all geologists. 
 
 From the narrow ridge forming 
 the top of Well Hill a splendid 
 panoramic view is obtained on all 
 sides. 
 
 In the ch. of Clielsfield, 1 m. 1. 
 of Farnliorough, is an elaborate 
 monument for Peter Collet, ;dder- 
 man of London, d. 1607 ; and an 
 altar- tomb, with brasses of the 
 Virgin and St. John, for Eobort de 
 IJrun, rector, 1417. Brasses: William 
 Ilobroke, rector, 1420 ; Alicia, wife 
 of Tlionias Bray, and 4 sons, 1.510. 
 
 Tlie spire of Ciidharii Clun-eli now 
 conies into view on its high ground 
 rt. A large portion of the parisli is 
 occupied by the Cudham woods, and 
 the whole place is so -wild and soli- 
 tary that the tourist will liave diffl- 
 cidty in believing himself to be less 
 than 20 m. from London Bridge. 
 Beyond Cudham appears the clump 
 of the Kiwrkholt beeches ; a landmark 
 for all the country round about, and 
 visible from the S'ydenliam Palace, 
 i'voni Gravesend, and from Leitli Hill, 
 in Surrey. Tlie Church of Knock- 
 holt dates from the end of Henry 
 Ill.'s reign, when it was built by a 
 certain Ealph Scot, who had fixed 
 liis " hall" tliere. It contains no mo- 
 numents of importance. 
 
 The road now crosses the high 
 chalk ridge above Sevenoaks, from 
 tlie summit of which the view over 
 the fertile valley of Holmdale, S., is of 
 extreme beauty, and skirts the park of 
 
 Chevening (Earl ofStanhopej. The 
 
 house is seen from the top of the 
 hill a little to the rt. 
 
 There are two manors of Che- 
 vening ; one of which belonged to 
 the see of Canterbury until the Re- 
 formation, when it passed into the 
 hands of the crown. The second, 
 whicli has far more liistoric interest, 
 early belonged to a family named 
 from it De Chevening, or Chown- 
 ing ; and passed through the Len- 
 nards, afterwards Lords Dacre, to 
 Tiiomas Lennard, Lord Dacre, 
 created Earl of Sussex by Cliarles 
 II. His daughters and co-heirs sold 
 Chevening in 1717 to General 
 Stanhope, the hero of Port Mahon 
 and of Almenara, grandson of Philip, 
 first Earl of Chesterfield ; and after- 
 wards created Earl of Stanhope for 
 his great services dm-ing the War of 
 the Succession. Chevening remains 
 in the hands of his descendants. 
 
 The house, rebuilt by Richard 
 Lennard, Lord Dacre of tlie South 
 (d. 1030), from designs by Inigo 
 Jones, stands at t)ie foot of the 
 chalk-ridge, but still on tolerably 
 high ground. All traces of the 
 original architect have, however, 
 disappeared ; a result of the nume- 
 rous alterations, both external and 
 internal, which have fi'om time to 
 time been made here. Chevening 
 contains some interesting portraits : 
 among the best are — The first Earl 
 Stanhope, Commander of tlie British 
 Army in Spain during the War of 
 the Succession, and afterwards 
 prime minister under George I., 
 lialf-length by Kiieller ; Earl of 
 Stanhope, Ambassador to tlie Court 
 of Charles II. of Spain ; Ijord 
 Chesterfield, Gainshoroiigh; the great 
 Lord Chatham ; Ducliess of Cleve- 
 land, when old ; and Mary Lepel, 
 Lady Hervey, aged. In the ground 
 is a fine lake, siuTounded by noble 
 trees ; and the close-mown turf 
 walks between the alleys and along 
 the terraces are very pleasant. A 
 mass of Roman moniunental stones
 
 Kent. 
 
 Bouts G. — Sevanoaks. — Knole. 
 
 105 
 
 and altars brought from Tarragona 
 by the first Lord Stanhope shoukl 
 be examined by the antiquary. A 
 road cut by the directions of Lord 
 Cliatliam winds up tlie combe at 
 the back of the house. From the 
 hill-top a noble view is commanded. 
 The Pilgrim's road, a ver}' ancient 
 and probably Britisli trackwaj', 
 passing from Hampshire toward Can- 
 terbury, formerly ran across the park 
 N. of the house, but was closecl by 
 an Act of Parliament obtained by 
 the late Lord Stanhope. The house 
 and grounds of Chevening are at all 
 times open to the public. 
 
 The Church has some E. E. por- 
 tions, but is chiefly Perp. It con- 
 tains some interesting monuments. 
 In the S. chancel are altar-tombs 
 with effigies of John Lennard and 
 his wife Elizabetli, d. 1590 ; and 
 of Sampson Leimard and his wife 
 Margaret Fiennes, Lady Dacre (d. 
 1615), through whom the peerage of 
 the Dacres passed to the family of 
 Lennard. The kind of mattress on 
 which the first two figure s are laid 
 is unusual. Here is also the monu- 
 ment of the great Lord Stanhope, a 
 black marble tablet erected by his 
 great-grandson. The banners car- 
 ried at his funeral are suspended 
 over his grave. Besides these, re- 
 mark a monument liy Chantrey for 
 Tiady Frederick Staidiope, daughter 
 of the Earl of Mansfii Id, who died 
 in childbirth. The child rests on 
 the bosom of the mother. The 
 design is aflfecting and successful. 
 Brass : man and wife, unknown ; the 
 date, 15!>(), remains. 
 
 Tln-ough a ri(;hiy wooded country, 
 and crossing the stream of the 
 Darent, we reacli 
 
 14 m. Irom Bromley, and 24 m. 
 from liondon, Sevenoalis. (Pop. 3000. 
 Inns : IJoyal Crown ; Dorset Arms — 
 both good). 
 
 The town stands pleasantly on 
 high ground, in the midst of fine 
 and varied scenery, and is a centre 
 
 from which very interesting excm'- 
 sions may be made. Lodgings and 
 fm-nished houses are to be had at 
 moderate rates during the summer. 
 
 Sevenoaks itself is of consid( r- 
 al)le antiquity ; but contains- little 
 of interest. About 1 m. Inyond the 
 town, on the Tuiibridge road, nearly 
 opposite the White Hart Inn, rt., are 
 seven trees traditionally said to re- 
 present the oalis which first gave 
 name to the town. 
 
 The Church, at the S. end of Seven- 
 oaks, is conspicuous from all tlie 
 slUTOunding country. It is mainly 
 Perp. I'here are monimients for 
 some of the Amherst family; 
 and in the N. chancel one for 
 William Lambarde, the " perambu- 
 lator of Kent, and the father of 
 comity historians' (d. IGOl), re- 
 moved here fi-om Greenwich after 
 the destruction of the ch. there. 
 Brass: Hugh Owen, rector; date 
 mrcertain. 
 
 The School and Almshouses, which 
 adjoin, were rebuilt in 1727. Both 
 were founded liy William Sevenokes, 
 Lord Mayor of London, tenqx Hen. 
 v., who was discovered when an 
 infant in the hollow of a tree near 
 this place (hence his name), and 
 sidjsequently ran the career of 
 Hogarth's virtuous apprentice. 
 Brought up by charitable persons, 
 he left his own fortune in charity. 
 Various benefactions were made 
 after his death to the school, which 
 was entitled " The Grammar School 
 of Queen Elizabeth," by her Ma- 
 jesty's letters patent, and receivid 
 at the same time its common seal, 
 represfiifing a formidable pedagogue 
 with 1)0(ik and birch. It is now of 
 some reputation, and has many 
 exhibitions attached to it. 
 
 The great lion of Sevenoaks, and 
 one of tlie most intert sting places 
 in Kent, is 
 
 Knole (Lady Amherst, Countess 
 of Plymouth), the park gates of 
 which are nearly opposite the ch. 
 F 3
 
 lOG 
 
 Route 6. — Knoh. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 A drive of about J m. tlirougli 
 groves of uoble trees, and over iiu- 
 dulatiug ground, where the deer 
 ^are seen qiiietly feeding, or half 
 shrouded in the deep fern, leads to 
 the house, which is almost always 
 open to the public. As, however, 
 some restrictions are occasionally 
 made, the tomist coming to this 
 neighboin-hood purposely to visit 
 Knolo wdl do will to inquire, by 
 letter addressed to one of the prin- 
 cipal hotels at Sevenoaks, whether 
 any special days are fixed as those 
 of admission. 
 
 Knole was one of the 16 palaces 
 at one time possessed by the see of 
 Canterlnny ; that of Otford, at least 
 equally large, being banly 4 m. 
 distant. It was purchased in 145G 
 from Lord Say and SlIc, by Abp. 
 Bouchier, wlio enclosed tlie park, 
 rebuilt the house, and left tlie whole 
 to the see, dying hi re in 14S(J. 
 Cardinal Morton, his successor, 
 added largely to the palace, received 
 visits here from Henry VII., and 
 died here in 1500. Abp. Warham 
 entertained Hemy VIII. at Knole in 
 1504 and 1514, but chiefly resided 
 at Otford. Cranmer, who lived here 
 occasionally, resigned the place to 
 Henry Vltl. The estate passed 
 through the usiial succession of 
 royal favourites — Elizabeth herself 
 visiting " her house at Knole" in 
 1573— until it finally (1003) fell 
 into the possession of Thomas Sack- 
 ville. Earl of Dorset, and Ixird 
 Treasurer. It was alienated for a 
 short time, and repiuehased in the 
 reign of Charles II. ; but with that 
 exception it has remained in the 
 family, and is now the property of 
 the Countess-Dowager of Plymouth, 
 a co-heiress of the last Saekville, 
 Didce of Dorset, and wife of tlie late 
 Lord Amherst. 
 
 From the almost unaltered cha- 
 racter of its fittings and decorations, 
 Knole is one of the most interest- 
 ing baronial mansions in England. 
 
 The furniture throughout dates from 
 the reigns of James I. and Cliarles I., 
 and still exhibits, as when Waljiole 
 visited it, " ancient magnificence : 
 loads of portraits, not good nor 
 cm-ious ; ebony cabinets ; endjossed 
 silver in vases, dishes, &c. ; em- 
 broidered beds, stift' chairs, and 
 sweet bags lying on velvet tables, 
 richly worked in silk and gold." The 
 assemblage of historical portraits, in 
 spite of Walpole's detraction, and 
 aUliOugli many are co])ies, piojde 
 the venerable rooms very strikingly. 
 The liouse was thorougldv refitted, 
 1(J05-1G07, by Thomas first Earl of 
 Dorset,, and the character of that 
 age is impressed both on the build- 
 ing itself (which he altered and 
 added to) and on the furniture. 
 About 17 rooms are shown, all low 
 and gloomy. The family inhabit a 
 modernised suite of ajjartments in 
 tlie W. front, which arc not shown. 
 
 The principal, or N.W., front is 
 composed of a central gatel;ouse, 
 with a long range of galdes ;uid un- 
 relieved wall. The windows are 
 square-headed. The general effect 
 is collegiate — a character which may 
 have been derived from the early 
 proprietors of Knole. The fine gate- 
 way with doid^le arch in the first 
 court ( which is carpeted with green- 
 sward, and " has a brautifnl, decent 
 simplicity that charms one" — Wal- 
 pole) is thought to have been built 
 by Abp. Bouchier (1454-1480), and 
 the oriel window over it contains his 
 crest in the glass (a falcon, with 
 bonrehier's knot). The st'cond, or 
 pavtd court, is fronted with a poor 
 Ionic colonnade, beneath which you 
 enter the Great Hall, altered, rootV d, 
 and fitted up by Thomas Hackville, 
 TiOrd Baekhurst (the poet), after- 
 wards 1st Earl of Dorset, to whom 
 the estate was given by Queen 
 Elizabeth. It is 75 ft. long and 27 
 high, with a fiat roof and a dais. 
 Tlie fireplace at the side contains 
 the ornamental fire-dogs be aring the
 
 K'tiNT. 
 
 Route 6. — Kiiole — Pictures 
 
 107 
 
 arms (auJ initials H. A.) of Henry 
 VIII. and Anue Bolt'yn, brought 
 from Hever Castle. At the lower end 
 runs a music-gallery of elaborately 
 carved wood, rich in ornaments and 
 barbarously encrusted with paint. 
 On the dais is placed a tine antique 
 statue, called Demosthents, tliongh 
 by some sujiposed to represent Pytlia- 
 goras. " It is in excellent preserva- 
 tion, only the hands and portions of 
 the feet being new." Kemark the 
 skill with which tlie drapery is 
 disposed. Tliis figiuv was bought 
 in Italy for TOOL by the third liarl 
 of Dorset. Another (the nymph 
 Egeria) is of inferior excellence. Of 
 the pictun's, remark — 
 
 George III. and Queen, Rummy; 
 Countess of Monmouth, Mijtens ; 
 Lord Somers, Lionel Duke of Dorset, 
 Kneller ; Duke d'E])ernon, A. More; 
 Death of Marc Antony, Dance ; 
 Finding of Moses, Giordano; Ani- 
 mals, Siiyders ; Bacchanals, Hulwns; 
 and a curious pictui-e of the Arundel 
 family. 
 
 A small but well-iir(.)portioned 
 staircase leads to the Bnnvn Galkry, 
 hung with a set of historical por- 
 traits, cliietly of the reigns of Henry 
 VIII., Elizabeth, and James I., for 
 the most part copies by one and the 
 same hand. "They seem," says 
 Walpole, " to have been bespoke by 
 the yard, and drawn all by the same 
 painter." There are, however, some 
 exceptions, such as — Cromwell, by 
 Walker. Queen Elizaljeth, a very 
 pale "occidental star," shadowless, 
 and very ugly. Catherine of Arra- 
 gon, Holbein. Luther, IVIelancthori, 
 and Pomeranius, the Eeform( rs, after 
 Cranarh. The Emperor Chark-s V., 
 after Andx-njer, pupil ol' Holbein. 
 Ninon de I'Enclos, at tlie age of 70. 
 A male head, in a black skull-cap 
 (good). Ortelius, the geographer, in 
 a circular frame, lloJhein (good). 
 Charles II., Ldy. The Countess of 
 Desmond. Milton, when young. 
 William Prince of Orange as a boy, 
 
 Jansen. Of the furniture, remark 
 the chair in which James I. sat 
 when here, and which, like tlie 
 " throne " in which his most sacred 
 Majesty Charles II. reposed at 
 Tillietudlem, is guarded from all 
 meaner approach. 
 
 The chamber of Lmhj Betty Grr- 
 malne (d. 1760, leaving part of 
 her fortune to Lord George Sack- 
 ville, afterwards Ccermaine) con- 
 tains a piece of tapestry worked at 
 Mortlake, after a pietm-e by Van- 
 dyck, consisting of portraits of him- 
 self, and of Sir Francis (Jrane, Master 
 of tlie Tapestry Works. The bed- 
 stead is ancient. In the Dressing- 
 room arc — Sir Walter Eakigh, in 
 armour ; George Villiers, first Duke 
 of Bucking] lain ; Anne Countess of 
 Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery 
 (who wrote the well-known lettei' to 
 Secretary Williamson), and her first 
 husband the third Earl of Dorset, 
 Jansen. 
 
 The fnrnitiu-e of the Spangled 
 Bedroom was presented l)y James I. 
 to Lionel Crantield, Earl of IMiddle- 
 sex. A curious ebony cabinet sliould 
 be remarked. The jnctures here 
 are copies, and very indiifereut 
 ones. 
 
 In the Billiard-room and Leicester 
 Gallery are — Sir Thomas More, after 
 Holbein. Sir Kenelm Digby, Van- 
 dych — a masterly portrait (in a 
 ditferent attitude from the portrait 
 of Sir Kenelm at Windsor, by the 
 same great master), with great depth 
 of colour and elaborate finish. 
 James I. and his son Prince Henry, 
 both painted at Knole, Mytens. 
 Philip IV. of Spain and his Queen. 
 James Marquis of Hamilton (a 
 duplicate, and not a good one, of 
 the Marquis by Mytens at Hampton 
 Court) ; Molino, the Venetian ambas- 
 sador, Mytens. Henry Howard, Earl 
 of Surrev (the poet), tetat. '2!), whole 
 length, after Holbein (V). This is a 
 copy of the Duke of Norfolk's i)ic- 
 ture at Arundel, engraved in Ijodge.
 
 108 
 
 Route G, — Knole — Pictures. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Frederic King of Boliemia and his 
 daughter the Princess 8o])hia, an- 
 cestress of tlie present royal liuuily, 
 copies after Honthorst (V). In tlie 
 lidcester Gallery are portraits of 
 Lionel Crauiield, Earl of Middlesex, 
 " the citizen who came to he Lord 
 Treasvu'er, and, was very near coming 
 to be hanged " ( Walpole), and others 
 of his family. "His lady, a bouncing- 
 kind of lady mayoress, looks pure 
 awkward among so much good com- 
 pany.'- — Walpole. 
 
 The Venetian Bedroom remains as 
 it was fitted up for the ambassador 
 Molino, after whom it is named. 
 The toilet-table and mirror-frame 
 are of silver. Here is a portrait of 
 Catherine II. ofEussia, in a soldier's 
 red iniiform, given by lier to Lord 
 Whitwortli. In the Dressing-room 
 are — Miss Axford, tlie fair Quakeress, 
 by Reynolds ; and a good portrait by 
 Gain^orough. 
 
 The Organ-room contains an an- 
 cient instriunent, which was used 
 for divine service by opening a 
 window communicating witli the 
 chapel. In the Ante-room to the 
 chapel an interesting specimen of 
 wood-carving is placed. It repre- 
 sents the Crucifixion, and consists 
 of more than 20 figures, admirably 
 executed. It belonged to ]Mary 
 Queen of Scots, and was given by 
 her to Eobert second Earl of Dorset 
 previous to her execution. The 
 doors of this room and several others 
 are still covered with old tapestry, 
 fastened back 1)y hooks on eacli side 
 to allow of passing. 
 
 The Chapel is Peq)., erected by 
 Abp. Boucliier. It has a good Perp. 
 E. windov/. The roof is modern. 
 Beneatli is a vaulted crypt, partly 
 bricked up. 
 
 The Ball-room, witli panelled 
 walls, surmounted ])y a curious 
 carved frieze and stuccoed roof, is 
 filled with family portraits, chiefly 
 whole-lengths. Those most worthy 
 of notice are — Edward, fourth Earl 
 
 of Dorset, celebrated for his fatal 
 duel with Lord Bruce of Ivinloss, 
 and his gallantry in the cause of 
 Charles I., Vandyck ("unusually red 
 in the flesh tones, otherwise painted 
 witli great mastery" — Wuagen); 
 Jolin Frederic third Duke of Dorset, 
 Eeynolds (" one of liis interior 
 works") ; and Lord George Sackville, 
 Gainsborough (very good : " Of very 
 animated conception, particularly 
 clear colouring, and careful execu- 
 tion' — Waageii). 
 
 'I'he Crirnson Draicing-room con- 
 tains the best ijictm-es in the house ; 
 nearly all deserve notice. Maiy 
 Queen of Scots, Zucchero (?). A 
 Kiding Party, Wouvermans — an ex- 
 cellent specimen of the master. 
 Count Ugolino in Prison (Dante, 
 'Inferno,' canto 33), the masterpiece 
 of Sir Joshua Beyuolds. Henry 
 VIII., Holbein. " Careful, and in a 
 warmer tone than usual." — Waagen. 
 A Holy Familv, (SW^oo/ of Rafaelle, 
 Ferinodel Vugd (?). TheWise'Men's 
 Otfering, MazzoUno da Fcrrara. 
 Frances, wife of the fifth Earl, 
 Vandyck. " Of great elegance." 
 Judith, with the Head ofHolofernes, 
 Garofolo. " The expression of each 
 head noble ; the careful execution 
 broad and free." — Waagen. A lit ad, 
 said to he by Bafaelle, and good, but 
 certainly not his own portrait. Eo- 
 Innetta, an actress, with a dog's head 
 peeping over her shoulder ; Portrait 
 of Madame Schindlerin, a singer; 
 the Gipsy Fortune-teller ; the Child 
 Samuel ; all four excellent pictures 
 by Eeynolds. Tlie Samuel has a very 
 strong feeling of IMuiillo. The Por- 
 trait of INIadame Bucalli, a dancer, 
 also by Eeynolds, is not so good. 
 Holy Family, Titian. Holy Family, 
 with St. Jerome (in a cardinal's 
 habit) and St. Francis ; a good copy 
 of an early Eaffaelle in tjie Berlin 
 Museum. Virgin and Child, with 
 St. John (the design by Michael 
 Angdo), Andrea del Sarto, a remark- 
 able picture, and in excellent pre-
 
 Kent. 
 
 Iloute 6. — Knole. — The Wilderness. 
 
 109 
 
 servation. Portrait of a Cliincse 
 Youth, who was at school in Seveii- 
 oaks, Beynolds. A Sibyl, Domvni- 
 cliiiio, strongly resembling the Stowe 
 picture, now belonging to the Mar- 
 quis of Hertford. A Country Merry- 
 making. "Attractive for its lively 
 action, delicate and cool tones, and 
 spirited treatment."   — Waagen. A 
 Guard-roum, with the Deliverance 
 of 8t. Peter ; " an excellent pic- 
 ture." Both by Teniers. The Duke 
 of Cleveland, Sir P. Lely ; Laud- 
 scape, Nicliolas Benjliem. 
 
 The Cartoon Gallerij contains 
 copies of six of the cartoons of Eaf- 
 faelle at Hampton Court, by Mijtens, 
 but of no great excellence. Here is 
 a very good portrait of tlie Eurl of 
 Albemarle, with a page, by Dohson ; 
 and a full-length of George IV., by 
 Lawrence. The fnrnitm'e of this 
 room is very splendid ; remark es- 
 pecially the inlaid chair of tlie first 
 Earl of Dorset, Lord Iligli Trea- 
 surer. An ancient trunk, bound and 
 studded with brass, shoidd also be 
 noticed. The sconces and fire-dogs 
 are of silver, but the ricliest display 
 of silver is in the adjoining cliamber, 
 
 Tlie King's Bedroom, so called 
 because fitted up as it now is for 
 James I. The silver toilet-service, 
 however, is an addition of the year 
 1743. Over the fireplace is a fine 
 picture by Janscn, interesting his- 
 torically, of the 3 brothers Coligny, 
 including the Admiral, miu-dered on 
 St. Bartholomew's night. 
 
 The Dining-room is hung with an 
 extensive collection of portraits of 
 literary men, "proix'r enougli in 
 that house," says Walpole, " for 
 tlie first Earl wrote a play (' Gor- 
 boduc,' acted before Elizabt'th in 
 1.561), and tlie last was a poet, and, 
 I tiiink, married a ])Iayer." Many 
 of tile persons iTprcsented here, as 
 Dryden, Pope, Prior, Wycherley, 
 Congreve, Killigrew, D'Urfey, ac- 
 tually met round tlie table of Charles, 
 tlie last and witty Earl of Dorset, 
 
 wlio did not marry a player, though 
 he lived tor some time with Nell 
 Gwynne. Kemark Cowh y and Ito- 
 cliester, by Du Bois. Waller and 
 Addison by Jarvis. Locke, Hobbes, 
 Newton, Sir Charles Sedley, Dryden, 
 and Betterton, by Kneller. Vandyck 
 and Sir Francis Crane, Vandycl;. 
 Ileyuolds (" remarkable for warm 
 and clear colouring, and careful 
 carrying out ") ; Garrick "(very cha- 
 racteristic ; the clasjied hands are 
 admirable"^ — • Waugen) ; Goldsmith, 
 Mrs. Abingdon the actress, Saceliini 
 the composer, and Dr. Johnson with- 
 out Jiis wig (a duplicate of tlie Duke 
 of Sutlierland's picture), Bcynolds. 
 Handel, Denner; careful and delicate. 
 Burke, Opie. Otway, Kneller (V). 
 Garth, Eowe, Wycherley, and Con- 
 greve, after Kneller. Gay, Bolt. 
 Ben Jonson, the original by Hon- 
 tJiurst of the head engraved by 
 Vertue. Portrait of himself (" Of 
 clever arrangement and careful 
 finish"), Dohson. Katherine Phillips 
 (tlie matchless Orinda). Cartwright 
 the poet, Ben Joiisou"s " sou." Beau- 
 mont and Fletcher. Tom D'Urfey. 
 Swift, after the head by Jervas in 
 the Bodleian. Sir Walter Scott, 
 I'll ill ijjs. 
 
 Tlie I'ark of Knole, always open 
 to the public, contains 1000 acres, 
 and is 5 m. in circuit. The grountl 
 is well varied, and many of the trees 
 are of great age and size. It abounds 
 in det r. " I'he park is sweet," 
 wrote Walpole, "with much old 
 beech, and an immense sycamore 
 before the great gate, which makes 
 me more in love than ever with 
 sycamores." The remoter slopes 
 especially, with their deep carpeting 
 of fern, their scattered hollies, and 
 oak copses, are full of attraction for 
 the landscape painter. 
 
 Almost adjoining the Park of 
 Knole, N., is The Wilderness (Mar- 
 quis Camden). The park is fine, 
 and from a hill on tiie S. sich} a 
 noble view is commanded. The
 
 110 
 
 IiQute 6. — Ightham. — WrotJiain. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 tourist .should also ascenil Lie H>U, 
 to wliicli a lane leads 1. ol'Sevcuoaks 
 Church, ayd Blorant's Court Hill, 
 generally corrupted to Madum's 
 Court Hill, on the old London road, 
 which commands a wider and finer 
 prospect than that seen from the 
 present Loudon road in entering the 
 town. The view over the Valley of 
 Tunhridge and the Weald, ohtained 
 from all these hills, will not readily 
 be forgotten. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Seven- 
 oaks are Montreal (Lord Andierst) ; 
 Klpp'nujton Park (Colonel Austen) ; 
 Ashgrove (Alexander Glendining, 
 Esq.); Beeclimont Park (Wra. Lam- 
 barde, Esq.); and Chart Lodge 
 (Lord jNIonson). 
 
 Tlie drive to Tunbridge (7 m.) 
 from Sevenoaks is very pictiux'sque, 
 the road gradually descending the 
 ridge of the sandstone into the 
 Weald country and the 
 
 " Vale of Ilolnisilale, 
 Never conquei"'d — never shall ;'' — 
 
 the inhabitants of which claim to be 
 called specially " the Men of Kent " 
 (see Swanscoinhe, lite. 2). The 
 views over the Weald, after gaining 
 the high ground S. of Sevenoaks, 
 are magidficent. The lofty tower 
 seen E. of Tunbridge is attached to 
 Hndlow Castle (A. B. May, Esq.). 
 About 4 m. from Sevenoaks, 1., is 
 Biver Hill, lately the seat of the 
 poet Rogers. Just above, and be- 
 fore reaching it, the tourist should 
 proceed 100 yards along a road 1., 
 for the sake of tlie view over the 
 Weahls of Kent and Sussex. On the 
 rt., entering the park, remark the two 
 " alle'es " cut in the beech-woods. 
 
 An omnibus runs twice a day from 
 Sevenoaks to the station at Tun- 
 bridge. 
 
 An interesting arehajological ex- 
 ciu-sion may be made from Seven- 
 
 oaks to Ljlttham and Wrotham, re- 
 tm-ning by Flaxtole and The Moat. 
 This will be a good day's work. 
 
 On this road, about 2 m., adjoin- 
 ing the park of the Wilderness, is Seal 
 Ciiurch, witli portions ranging from 
 E. E. to Pcri)., and not without in- 
 terest. Brass in chancel : Sir Wil- 
 liam de Bryene, 1395— a very early 
 example of tlie tilting helmet, with 
 crest and mantling, placed luider the 
 head as a pillow. 
 
 At Oldhernj Hill, on Ightham 
 Common, a little beyond Crown 
 Point, where the road bends south- 
 ward, is a very large intrenchment 
 of an irregular form, and enclosing 
 about 137 acres. The vallum is 
 single ; and a covered entrance may 
 bo traced on tlic S. side. Toward 
 the centre are two springs of water. 
 On the brow of the hill a cave is 
 said to exist, of which the greater 
 jiart has been filled by siidving of 
 the earth. A Roman vicinal way 
 seems to have crossed the parish 
 here, the course of wliicli is marked 
 by such Jiamrs as Stone Street and 
 Oldhorough ; Init the   camp can 
 hardly have been formed by the 
 legionaries, and is very probably one 
 of the " oppida sylvis miniita " which 
 Cajsar found existing on his tirst 
 visit to Kent. 
 
 Tlie C'inreli of Ightham, 1 m. be- 
 yond, has been greatly modernised, 
 but contains some Dec. portions of 
 interest. A])ove the Perp. eastern 
 window the frames of two very small 
 Norm, ones are visible. In the N. 
 wall of the chancel is an effigy 
 dating from the early part of the 
 14th centiu'y, atlrilmted to Sir 
 Thomas Cawne. Hideous 17th cen- 
 tirry monuments, for Selbys of the 
 Moat, disfigure the S.E. angle. 
 Brass : Sir Richard Clements, circ. 
 1.530. 
 
 The tourist may shorten his day's 
 work 1)y ]iroceeding from here at 
 once to The Moat, which lies in 
 the S. part of the parish, about 2 m.
 
 KE>fT. 
 
 Route 6. — Plaxtole — The Moat. 
 
 n\ 
 
 from Iglitliam, nnd tliencc rcinming 
 to Seveuoaks. Coiitimiiug the longer 
 excursion, liu will rtat-li, 
 
 2^ ni., Wrotham Church, partly 
 E. E.(nave, pitrs, and arches), but 
 of no very high interest. There are 
 many brasses — Thomas Nysell and 
 family, 1498 ; Tlmmas Peokliam and 
 family, 1512; Reynold Peekliam 
 and wife, 15Ho ; John f^undreet, 
 rector, 1-12G. An old mansion IS. 
 of the ell. (brick with stone dressings) 
 should be noticed. Wrotham was 
 granted by Athelstane to the see of 
 Canterbmy; and the arehl)iBhops 
 had very early a palace here, the 
 greater part of which was pidled 
 down by Abp. Islip, temp. Edw. III., 
 in order to finish his palace at Maid- 
 stone with the niati rials. The 
 manor was subsequently resigned to 
 the king by Cranmer. Of the pa- 
 lace, wliicli stood E. of the ch., there 
 are very scaiity traces. 
 
 At Blacksole Field, in this parish, 
 Sir Robert Southwell, sheriff of 
 Kent, and Lord Abergavenny, routed 
 the Islcys and their party, who were 
 engaged in Sir Tliomas Wyatt's re- 
 bellion in the first year of Queen 
 Mary. Wrotham Hill, in the chalk 
 range (the North Do^vns), 1 m. be- 
 yontl the village, commands a superb 
 view over the rich tree-shadowed 
 country S. 
 
 From Wrotham you may either 
 proceed by Addington and Mailing 
 to Maidstone (11 m., see Rte. 5), re- 
 turn to Seveuoaks by Kempsing and 
 Otford (see post. Exclusion N. from 
 Seveuoaks), or, as at first proposed, 
 turn S. to Plaxtole, 3^ m., having 1. 
 the great masses of the Hurst woods, 
 which stretcli np behind Mereworth. 
 The Church of Plaxtole dates from 
 1G49, and is of no interest ; but 1 m. 
 N.E. is Sore Place, when; is an early 
 Dec. house well deserving a visit. 
 (Inquire for " Old Shore Farm,'' a 
 modern house having been joined to 
 the ancient one.) The date of Sore 
 Place is about PJOO {Hudson Turner). 
 
 It is of tv>'0 stories, the plan consist 
 ing of an oblong buililing running 
 neai'ly E. and W., witli two lessi r 
 ones attached to the N.E. and N.W. 
 angles. The groimd-tloor of the 
 larger building is vaulted. Remark 
 the mere loops serving as wind(_)ws 
 on tliis Hoor throughout tlie building, 
 indicating the iuscciuity of the 
 times. At the foot of the stair in 
 the S.W. angle is a door whicli now 
 affords access to the modern part of 
 the house, biit whicli may originally 
 have oiieucd into a porch. The 
 principal room alwve has a fireplace, 
 tlie ja-mlw of which are mutilated. 
 The tracery is gone from the win- 
 dows, of wliich there is one at each 
 end, and a smaller one on each side 
 of the fireplace. The roof is appa- 
 rently original. 
 
 The upper stories of the two pro- 
 jecting buildings are entered from 
 this room. That at the N.E. angle 
 was probably the chapel, since a 
 piscina remains in its S. wall. The 
 room at the N.W. angle is lighted 
 by foiu' cross loops, "and may have 
 been eonstri;cted partly with a view 
 to d( fence, as it effectually flanks 
 two sides of the building." — Hudson 
 Turner. 
 
 The manor of Sore belonged to 
 the family of Colepeper luitil the 
 reign of Elizabeth, Walter de Cole- 
 peper having died possessed of it, 
 1st Edw. III., long Ijefore which the 
 present house must have been 
 erected. 
 
 1 m. W. of Plaxtole ch. lies the 
 Mont (Ca])tain Lound), the earliest 
 portions of which date from Edward 
 II. The house is one of very great 
 interest, being one of the most en- 
 tire specimens remaining of the 
 ancient moated " manor," such as 
 figures so often in the knightly his- 
 tories of the Round Table. Like its 
 brethren of romance, the Ightham 
 Moat-house lies sleeping in the midst 
 of fliiek woods, which you may rc- 
 people at will witli sucli marvels as
 
 112 
 
 Route 6. — Sundrulge. 
 
 Sect. T. 
 
 Sir Tri.stnim or Sir Pcrcival were 
 wont to encounter in similar situa- 
 tions. The broad moat is fed from 
 a neigldjouring rivulet, which, it has 
 been conjectm-ed, formed here a 
 small island or eijte, whereon the 
 building was originally erected, and 
 which thus gave name to the whole 
 parish — Iglitham, Ejirhani, the 
 "hamlet of the eyte." 
 
 The plan of the Moat is a quad- 
 rangle, the walls of which rise at 
 once fi'onr the water. It is of three 
 distinct iseriods — the first of Edward 
 II. ; the second of Henry VII. and 
 the beginning of Henry VIII. ; the 
 third of Elizabeth and James I. 
 The hall Ijelongs to i\\G first period. 
 Remark tjie central stone arch, 
 which rtsendjles those of Mayfield in 
 Sussex. The moiddings are Dec, 
 and differ in no respect from those 
 of the other princiiJals, which are of 
 wood. The doorways are also ori- 
 ginal. The fireplace and windows 
 temp. Hen. VIII. Other portions 
 of the first period are — a room with a 
 groined vault and a window looking 
 into the moat, and a chamber over 
 it called the "old chapel." Of the 
 second period the most interesting 
 portions are, the gateway-tower, with 
 the gateway itself and its wooden 
 doors ; and especially the cliapd, 
 upstairs — " a very perfect and inte- 
 resting example of the domestic 
 chapel of tliat period." — /. II. 
 Parker. Tlie original painted ceil- 
 ing, with numerous liadges of Henry 
 VIII., remains. Tiie pulpit and 
 benches are also unaltered. The 
 third, or Elizabethan work, consists 
 mainly of the large quadrangle out- 
 side the moat, entirely built of 
 timber, and containing the stables, 
 in which there is said to have been 
 room f(ir :{00 liorses. 
 
 The ]\Ioat belonged to the family 
 of De Haut, from a period before 
 the reign of Henry II. until the end 
 of that of Henry VII. ; with an in- 
 termission duruig thi", reign of 
 
 Eichard III., when the estate was 
 confiscated, Eicliard De Haut having 
 joinid the party of the Earl of 
 liiclnnond. It sulisequently passed 
 through many difierent hands tt) the 
 Selbys of Northumberland, temp. 
 Eliz., one of whom, dying without 
 issue, " for the sake of the name," 
 gave it to "Mr. George Sell)y of 
 London," temp. CJias. I., in whose 
 family it continued until quite re- 
 cently. 
 
 En)m tlie Moat, a pleasant drive 
 of 4 m. brings us back to Sevenoaks. 
 
 Wesferham, C| m., may be visited 
 from Sevenoaks. The road is hilly, 
 with occasional pietm-esque views 
 over a richly wooded coiuitry. 
 
 Tlie Ciuu-ch oi' iSiiiidridge, 4 m., is 
 E. E. with considerable additions, 
 mainly Perp. It has been lately 
 refitted with open seats of carved 
 oak. Br((sses : Roger Isley, 1429 ; 
 and three others, without names or 
 dates. On a Perp. altar-tomb are 
 stone etfigies of a man and woman, 
 said to be those of John Isley 
 and wife, d. 1484. The beautiful 
 churchyard of Sundridge will not 
 be unnoticed. In it is the tomb 
 of Bp. Porteus, who lived and died 
 here. 
 
 The Isleys of Sundridge Place, S. 
 of the ch., were active in the rising 
 of Sir Thomas Wyatt in the 1st year 
 of Queen Maiy ; and their estates in 
 consequence were forfeited for a 
 time. Their old house has entii-ely 
 disappeared. 
 
 At Brnsted, 1 m., is a patched 
 ch. of various dates ; the interior 
 mainly E. E. Remark the porch 
 with ribbed roof, formed in the 
 central buttress on the W. side of 
 the tower. Both here and at 
 Sundridge are paper-mills on the 
 stream of the Darent. In the neigh- 
 bourh(^od are Brasted Parli (William
 
 Ke^'T. Route 6. — Westerham. — Squerries Parh, 
 
 113 
 
 Tipping, Esq., once the retreat of 
 Louis Najjoleon), Hill Park (Lonl 
 Norbnry), and Cliipstead, an orna- 
 mental village, the cottages in which 
 were built by - Perkins, Esq., whose 
 handsome residence contains a first- 
 rate library, and is surrounded by 
 beautiful gardens and a noble pine- 
 tum. 
 
 liT m. fm-ther brings us to Wester- 
 liam (Pop, of tlie parish, 3000), a 
 small town stretching along the foot 
 of the chalk hills, and very plea- 
 santly situated. The Clturch is 
 almost throughout late Perp. 
 Brasses : William Stace, 2 wives and 
 15 children, 1566 ; Jolm Cliristc, 
 1567. At the vicarage are preserved 
 some other brasses, removed dm-ing 
 repairs effected some years since ; 
 more, however, are to be desired, 
 since above the present ceiling an 
 open carved roof is said to exist. In 
 the ch., over the S. entrance, is a 
 memorial for General Wolfe, tlie con- 
 queror of Queltec, born in Wester- 
 ham, Jan. 2, 1727. 
 
 " Whilst George in sorrow bows his laurell'd 
 head," 
 
 runs the inscription, the men of 
 Westerham 
 
 " AVith huml)le grief inscribe one artless stone, 
 And from thy matchless honours date our 
 own." 
 
 Other celebrities of Westerham 
 are Hoadly, Bp. of Winchester, 
 born here in 1676 ; whose famous 
 controversy with William Law is 
 better remembered than the long- 
 ckawn sentences in which he sup- 
 ported it — 
 
 " Swift for closer stylo, 
 But Hoadly for a period of a mile ; " — 
 
 and Fryth, tlie companion and 
 fellow laljourer of Tyndale, born at 
 Westerham in 1503. His father 
 was afterwards an innkeeper at 
 Sevenoaks. Frytli's writiTigs are 
 said to have been instnuuental in 
 
 the conversion of Granmer, who had 
 previously condenintd him. 
 
 Tlie view from the E. side of the 
 churchyard, where a seat has been 
 fixed, should not be missed. It 
 embraces much of the road by 
 which the totu-ist will have come 
 from Sevenoaks, besides a wide ex- 
 tent of rich and most pietm-esquely 
 varied country. At CJiarfs EiJrie, 
 on tlie range of sandstone hills S.E. 
 of the town, some quarries of 
 Kentish rag liave lately been opened, 
 a visit to which will jirove interest- 
 ing to the geologist. The modern 
 Gothic house on the top ot tlie liill, 
 and commanding fine vitws, is the 
 residence of the Eev. Thomas 
 Strcatfeild. The walk may he con- 
 tinued from here to Crocliham H/U, 
 about 1 m. W. and close above the 
 road from the Edcnbridge Station 
 to Westtrham. The view over the 
 3 counties, Kent, Sun-ey, and iSussex, 
 ranks deservedly higli among the 
 many wide panoramas obtained in 
 this neighbourhood. 
 
 Close to Westerham is Squerrits 
 Park (Charles Warde, Esq.). The 
 Darent rises not far from the back 
 of the liousc of Squerries, and at 
 once becomes a strtam of some im- 
 portance. Its course, from this point 
 to its junction with the IMt dway near 
 Dartford, is 30 m. in length, passing 
 through some very beautiful coun- 
 try ; and it still has the re pulation, 
 as when in Spenser's days it attendi d 
 tlie marriage of the Thames and 
 ]\I( dway, of being one of the bi.st 
 trout-streams in Kent : — 
 
 " the still Parent, in whot^e waters clean 
 
 Ten thousand fi>hcs play, and deck his 
 pleasant stream.'' 
 
 N. from Sevenoaks an excursion of 
 mucli interest may be made in the 
 direction of Dartford. From Farn- 
 iiigJiam, 8 m. from Sevenoaks, a coach
 
 11^ Route 6. — Otford. — Shoreham. — LuUingstone. Sect. T. 
 
 starts even- afternoon to meet the in the clim-chvard ^yas much rever- 
 traiu at Dartford, 5 ni. enced bj' the' peasantry, St. Edith 
 
 On this road, at Offorcl, 3^ m., ' " - - - 
 
 close to the chm-cli, are the ruins of 
 the archiepiscojjal palace, rebuilt by 
 Abp. Warliam, temp. Hen. VIII., at 
 a cost of 3:i,000Z. A tower and tlic 
 cloistered side of the oiiter court are 
 the only portions remaining. These 
 are of brick with stone dressings. 
 The manor was gTauted to the see of 
 Canterbm-y by Offa of IMcrcia in 
 791 ; and was resigned to the crown 
 by Cranmer. The pleasant situation, 
 at the foot of the chalk hills, and the 
 large iiai-ks and woods adjoining, 
 rendered Otford one of the most 
 favourite of the 16 archiepiscopal 
 l^alaces. Abp. Becket supplied" it 
 with water, which, according to tlie 
 local legend, it Avanted until he 
 struck his staff into the gnniud, 
 thereby calling forth the spring 
 which still feeds St. Thomas's Well, 
 close to the ruins. The saint is 
 also said to have used this sirring 
 as a bath. The water is still thought 
 to be of powerfid virtue, and is re- 
 sorted to as a cm-e for various ail- 
 ments. Abp. Winchelsea died at tlie 
 Ijalace here in 1313. 
 
 The Church was rebuilt about 2 
 cents, ago, and is of little intirest. 
 The pillars dividing the nave from 
 the aisles are of wood ; and there is 
 a monument to Charles Polhill, Esq., 
 of great local celebrity from its con- 
 taining " seven different kinds of 
 marble." The shrine of St. Bar- 
 tholomew here anciently enjoyed 
 considerable reputation from the as- 
 sistance it afforded to such ladies 
 as desired to become " as all must 
 wish to bo who love their lords." 
 
 [About 1 m. E. of Otford is Kem- 
 sincj, with a small and much-patched 
 church, containing a half-length 
 brass of Thomas de Hop, circ. 1315. 
 It is dedicated to St. Edith, a local 
 saint saiil to liave l)een born here. 
 She .still patronizes a well toward the 
 centre of the village, and her image 
 
 having succeeded the more ancient 
 " Dii Agrestes " as— 
 
 " breather round the farms, 
 To keep off mildew, and all weather harms."] 
 
 Along the line of hills above Ot- 
 ford and the village of Kemsing runs 
 the " Pilgrims' Koad," a veiy ancient 
 trackway, which, wliatevtr may have 
 been its origin, was that along which 
 the pilgrims from the S.W. districts 
 advanced toward Canterbury. (See 
 Chariug, Ete. 8.) Here, as else- 
 where, it avoids tlie inhabited coun- 
 try as much as jjossible, keeping at 
 some little distance from the towns 
 and villages. 
 
 From Otford the road follows tlie 
 course of the Darent, between the 
 clialk hills which rise on either side 
 of the river. 
 
 The Chiu'ch of Shorehmn, 1 m., 
 offers notliing wliich need delay the 
 tourist. Shon'hain Place, however 
 CH. St. Jolm Mildinay, E.scpX a 
 modern house, very 2^1easantly situ- 
 ated, contains some interesting pic- 
 tures, mostly of the Dutch school, 
 and formerly in tlie gallery of Baron 
 Verstolk at the Hague. The greater 
 part of the collection is in Mr. Mild- 
 may's London residence ; but in the 
 library at Slioreham are 
 
 Landscape with waterfall, Jan 
 Both; fine. A. large landscape, 
 Isaac van Osfade. A remarkable 
 picture, .signed, by Jan 2-an der 
 Heijdvn. An Interior, Peter de 
 Hoixilie. Small landscape. Arias 
 rau der Neer ; very good. Land- 
 scape, Hachert. In another room 
 are two pictures b)^ Srnjders, — a 
 fight between wolves and dogs, 
 and another between dogs and bears. 
 
 2 m. further, 1., is Shoreham, or old 
 Lidliii(istone Castle. A farm-house, 
 1. of the road, marks the site. Some 
 fragments of the ancient stronghold 
 still remain. This castle, which has
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 7. — Reigate Junction to Dover. 
 
 115 
 
 no historical interest, was held tinder 
 the Abps. of Canterbury. 
 
 There is a public footpath througli 
 the beautiful park of the present 
 LuUingsfoue Cudle ( Sh- Percival Hart 
 Dyke, Bart.). The honse lies low, 
 in a valley between the chalk hills, 
 and, althoug'ii some portions are an- 
 cient, the greater jjart dates from the 
 end of the last century, when it was 
 much altered and added to. Close 
 adjoining is tlie Church, which should 
 be visited for the sake of some IGtli 
 cent, monuments of tJie Peche and 
 Hart families, mmsually rich and 
 good. The best are — Sir George 
 Hart and wife, d. 1587 ; Sir Percival 
 Hart, S. of tlie main chancel, d. 1580 ; 
 and Sir John Peche, between tlie 
 main and the N. chancels, d. 31st 
 Hen. VIII. There are some later 
 tombs of less interest. Brass: Sir 
 William Peche, 1487. The cluu-ch 
 was " repaired and beautified " by 
 Percival Hart, Esq. (d. 1788). There 
 are some ti-agments of stained glass 
 of Dec. character, and a good oaken 
 chancel screen. 
 
 LuUingstone passed liy marriage 
 from tlie Peclies to the" Harts, to- 
 ward the end of tlie reign of Henry 
 VIII., and, in 1738, again by mar- 
 riage, to the Dykes of Sussex, in 
 which family it still remains. 
 
 Close beyond LuUingstone Park is 
 Eynsford (see lite. •>), and 1 ni. fur- 
 ther Farninghaiii (Kte. 2), whence a 
 coach starts daily for the station at 
 Dart ford, 8 m. 
 
 [2 m. E. of Farningham is the 
 little church of Kmgsdoivn, in wliicli 
 are some fra,gments of stained glass, 
 of the later half of tlie 14th "cent. 
 The building itself is very plain, and 
 without distinctive character.] 
 
 r.()UTE 7. 
 REIGATE JUNCTION TO DOVER. 
 
 (^South-Eastern Railwaij,^ 
 
 Leaving the Eed Hill Station, the 
 line sweeps gently round in the 
 direction of Kent, and continues as 
 straight as a Roman road nearly as 
 far as Tunbridge. 
 
 For the jjoiuts of interest on cither 
 side of the railway as far as the 
 Godstone station, see Handbook fur 
 Siirreij, cf-e. 2 m. beyond it we enter 
 the county of Kent. 1 ni. further 
 we reach, 
 
 3H m. from Loudon, Edcnhridge. 
 
 The Church at Edeubridge, ori- 
 ginally attached to Westerham, has 
 some Norm, portions. Brass, John 
 Selyard, 1558. 
 
 [om. from the station, and partially 
 seen from the rail on rt., is Hevnr 
 Castle, interesting from its associa- 
 tions with Henry VIII. and Anne 
 Boleyn, and quite as much so from 
 its affording an excellent specimen 
 of tlie later castellated mansion. The 
 walk to it, across the fielels from 
 Edeubridge, is a pleasant one. The 
 eastle, which stands close by the 
 river, forms a quadrangle of mo- 
 derate size, with high-pitched roofs 
 and gables, and is surrounded by a 
 double moat, fed from tlie Eden. A 
 gatehouse, strongly portcuUised, and 
 a very carious example of ancient 
 defensive arrangements, leads into
 
 116 
 
 Route 
 
 -ITcver Castle and ChurcJi. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 the open court. One room in the 
 gatehouse lias been recently titted 
 up. The rest of the building is 
 occupied as a farmhouse, but the 
 old arrangements liave been very- 
 little altered. The rooms are pa- 
 nelled with oak, and the chamljer 
 (now hung with a modern paper, and 
 inhabited) is shown in which Anne 
 of Cleves died. The rooms calh'd 
 Anne Boleyn's are at tlie N.W. 
 corner ; none of the furniture, liow- 
 ever, is of her time, nor of any great 
 antiquity. There is the usual gallery 
 in the roof of the N. front, and in the 
 staircase window is some stained glass 
 with the arms of Boleyn, Butler, and 
 Howard. The wooden stables, with 
 the sleeping apartments above, are 
 very curious, and should be noticed. 
 They are not later than the 15th 
 cent. Fronting them is an oi^en 
 gallery, overlooking the castle bowl- 
 ing-green. 
 
 An earlier Castle was rebuilt, 
 temp. Edw. III., by Sir William 
 Hevre of Hevre, near Northtieet, 
 whose co-heir carried it to the Jjords 
 Cobliam of Sterborough. It was 
 bought by Sir (xeoffrey Boleyn, 
 mercer, and Lord Mayor 37 Hiu. VI., 
 who began the present castle (the 
 older building being apparently in 
 a ruined state), which was completed 
 by his grandson. Sir Thomas, fatlier 
 of Anne Boleyn, and afterwards Earl 
 of Wilts. It is uncertain whether 
 Anne Boleyn was born at Hever ; but 
 she was certainly educated here, im- 
 der the care of her French " gouver- 
 nante," Simonette, before she went 
 to France in tlie train of the Princess 
 Mary ; and here subserpiently the 
 king often visited her during the 
 troubled years of his courtship. Her 
 first meeting with Henry after her re- 
 turn from France is said to have taken 
 place in the Castle gardens. Several 
 of Henry's letters are addressed to 
 her here. " In order to remind you 
 of my affection," he writes, " and be- 
 cause I cannot be in your presence. 
 
 I send you the thing which comes 
 nearest that is possible, that is to say 
 my picture, and tlie whole device, 
 which you already know of, set in 
 bracelets, wishing myself in their 
 place when it pleases von.'' On the 
 death of the Earl of W'iltslnre Henry 
 seized the estate and granted it for 
 life to his repudiated wife Anne of 
 Cleves, who died here. Queen Slary 
 gave it to the AValdegraves, and it 
 was sold in 17-1.5 to Sir T.Waldo, with 
 whose descendants it now remains. 
 
 Hever Church, adjoining, is for 
 the most part Dec., the" Boleyn 
 Chapel being late Per[i. In the "S. 
 wall of the tower is an arch with 
 ogee canopy, under Avhich is fixed 
 an inscription, taken from a slab in 
 the pavement below, for John de 
 Coldiam, 1399. In the Boleyn 
 Chantry, on an altar tomb, is the 
 fine brass of Sir Thomas, Anne 
 Boleyn's father (d. 1538). Other 
 Brasses are — Margaret Cheyne, 1499 
 (good) : and Will'fam Todde, 15S5. 
 
 A small inn in the village exhibits 
 the figure of Henry YIII. as a sign. 
 A traditionary saying, that 
 
 " .lesus Christ was never but once at Ilever, 
 And then he fell into the river," 
 
 perhaps alludes to the deep mud of 
 the ancient roads. There is a French 
 proverb whicli describes such " foul 
 ways " as roads " oil le bon Dieu ne 
 pent passer par I'hiver." TJiat the 
 Hever roads were fully equal in 
 depth of mire to those of Sussex or 
 the Weald aj^pears from a tradition 
 which asserts that Henry used often 
 " to stick in the mud " as he drew 
 near the place after nightfall ; wljen 
 he would )>lowhis liorn and summon 
 tlie inmates of the Castle with torches 
 to his assistance. 
 
 Tlie scenery about Hever is jilea- 
 sant, tliough not equal to that nearer 
 Pensliurst. On tlie sandhills be- 
 tween the Castle and Chiddingstone 
 tradition asserts tliat watclimen were 
 stationed, " to announce by sound of
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 7. — Chiddingstone. — Penshurst. 
 
 117 
 
 bngle the approach of King Henry 
 to Mistress Anue, as, galloiiiug 
 from Eltham and Greenwich, he de- 
 scended the hills opposite." 
 
 1 m. E. of Hever is Ghkldivgstone, 
 anciently called Higli Street House, 
 the residence of Henry Streatfeild, 
 Esq., whose family have been settled 
 liere since the reign of Henry VIII. 
 The present castellated house is 
 modern. Under the trees on the 
 edge of the park, behind the village, 
 is the so-called " Chiding-stone," 
 said, though very questionaljly, to 
 have given name to the jiarish. It 
 is a large, well-worn mass of sand- 
 stone, about 18 ft. high, and would 
 certainly be no bad out-door " pul- 
 pit" or "judgment-seat," to Miiieli 
 uses tradition has assigned it. Similar 
 masses, however (besides those at 
 Tunbridge Wells), are found through- 
 out all the sandstone district, as at 
 West Hoathley and Hellingley in 
 Sussex — at both which places some 
 sort of tradition is attached to them ; 
 and altliough they may possildy have 
 been used by either Britons or 
 Saxons, the rocks themselves are 
 beyond all doubt in their natural 
 position. 
 
 Chiddingstone Clnirch is in the 
 village adjoining the park. The 
 Tower is Perp., but the church 
 itself has some Dec. portions. It 
 contains many monuments of the 
 Streatfeilds ; some of them iron slabs 
 resembling those of Sussex. In the 
 neighbourhood is Stonewall Park (E. 
 Meade Waldo, Esq.). 
 
 There are some picturesque tim- 
 ber houses in the village, including 
 a cjuaiut old inn. Boar Place and 
 BoreshlH in tills parish are said to 
 be so named from the wUd boars 
 which anciently haunted this great 
 forest district.] 
 
 37 m. Penshurst Station. 
 
 2 m. 1. is Leigh Church. 
 Brasses: John Stace, 1591 ; and a 
 
 feinale, without name or date, not 
 early, but of unusual character. The 
 
 half figm-e rises from an altar tomb, 
 within which the body is seen, 
 wrapjied in a shroud. 
 
 Adjoining is Hall Place (T. P. 
 Bailey, P]sq.). 
 
 I ni. rt. is Eedleaf (W. Wells, Esq.), 
 celebrated under its late owner for 
 its pictures, the greater jiart of which 
 are now dispersed, and for the 
 beauty of its gardens, which remain. 
 There is still at Eedleaf, however, a 
 most important collection of modern 
 pictures, including Wilkie's famous 
 " Distraining for Eent," and some 
 very fine Landseers. Many of these 
 were exhibited at Mancliester, but 
 are not shown here. The views from 
 the grounds are very striking. Ee- 
 mark tlie picturesque cottages built 
 l)y IMr. Wells near the park gates. 
 
 A pleasant, tree-shadowed road, 
 14 m., leads to one of the great 
 Kentish shrines — 
 
 Pensliurst Place (liOrd de Lisle). 
 
 The iixed days for seeing the house 
 are Monday and Saturday, but in the 
 absence of the family it is shown at 
 all times. 
 
 A footway enters the park oppo- 
 site Eedleaf, and from it a fine view 
 is obtained of the grand old house 
 with the village at its back. The 
 building is of varioiis dates and ir- 
 regular plan ; but as the Sidneys 
 invariably placed either an in- 
 scription or an heraldic escutcheon 
 on every new building, the time at 
 which each was erected is ascer- 
 tained with certainty. 
 
 The air of venerable antiquity 
 which at once impresses the visitor 
 as the grey walls of Penshurst ajipear 
 among their sheltering trees, is thus 
 celebrated by Ben Jonson : — 
 
 " Thou art not, Penshurst, built to envious 
 
 show 
 Of touch ormavble; nor canst boast a row 
 Of polish'd pillars or a roof of gold : 
 Thou hast no lantern, whereof tales are 
 
 told; 
 Or stair, or courts ; but stand'st an ancient 
 
 pi le. 
 And (these gi'udged at) art reverenced the 
 
 while.
 
 118 
 
 Boute 7. — Pensliurst. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Thou joy'st in bettor marks, of soil, of air. 
 Of wood, of water; tlierein thmi art fair. 
 Thou liast thy walks for healtli, as well as 
 
 sport ; 
 Thv mount, to whicli the Pryads do resort, 
 Wlieii Pan and Bacchus their high feasts 
 
 have made 
 Beneath the broad beech and the chestnut 
 
 shade." 
 
 The N. or main front lias a gate- 
 liouse, temp. Edw. VI. The rest 
 has been hitely rebirilt. Crossing 
 the great coiu't, the picturesque 
 outlines of which will at once attract 
 attention, we first enter the Hall. 
 It was built by Sir John Devereux 
 about 1349, and is perhaps the most 
 ancient of its size remaining in the 
 kingdom. The tracery in the win- 
 dow-heads is of unusual design, and 
 should be compared with tliat at 
 Chartham {Hie. 8), at Leeds Castle 
 {Bte. 5), and in the hall of the arch- 
 bishop's palace at Mayfield in Sus- 
 sex, pod, all nearly of the same 
 date. The open timber roof is of 
 excellent design. The hearth is 
 central, with a ma;ssy brand-iron 
 still remaining. The oak tables 
 should also be noticed. At one end 
 is the Minstrels' Galleiy, supported 
 by a wainscot screen of later date 
 than the hall, but of good design. 
 The bear and ragged staff, the badge 
 of the Dudleys, is frequently re- 
 peated among its ornaments. 
 
 Among the numerous great per- 
 sonages who have been entertained 
 in tliis hall we may reckon James I., 
 whose unexpected visit gave Jonson 
 an opportunity for praising my Lady 
 Sidney's good housekeeping— 
 
 " That found King James, when hunting late 
 
 this way, 
 With his brave son, the prince ; they saw 
 
 thy fires 
 Shine bright on every hearth, as the desires 
 Of thy Penates had been set on flame 
 To entertain them ; or the country came, 
 AVith all their zeal, to wanii their welcome 
 
 here. 
 AVhat great, I will not say, but, sudden 
 
 cheer 
 Did^^tthou lhpn"make them ! and what praise 
 
 was lieap'd 
 On thy good lady, then ! who therein reap'd 
 
 The just reward of all her housewifery ; 
 To have her linen, plate, and all things nigh, 
 When she was far ; and not a room but 
 
 dress'd 
 As if it had e.\pected such a guest ! " 
 
 Through the screen were the usual 
 communications with kitchen and 
 buttery. The first has been de- 
 stroyed, but there remains at this 
 end of the hall a mass of building of 
 2 stories of the same date as the hall 
 itself. (/. H. Parker.) 
 
 At the opposite end of the hall a 
 door leads into the cellar, which is 
 vaulted, with a range of arches down 
 the centre. It is earlier than the 
 hall, and apparently of the 12th 
 cent. 
 
 The fragments of armour once 
 shown here have been removed to 
 the private apartments. They are 
 the relics of a most noble collection, 
 suits of the Sidneys from generation 
 to generation, which clisappeared 
 about 50 years since : at which time 
 also the greater part of the Sidney 
 correspondence preserved in the Evi- 
 xlence Chamber found its way to the 
 hands of London collectors, under 
 the auspices of the ingenious Mr. 
 Ireland, then a frequent visitor at 
 Peushurst. Among the papers which 
 still remain here, however, are 
 several MS. treatises in the hand- 
 writing of Algernon Sidney. 
 
 A staircase, refitted, but perhaps 
 not later than the hall, leads to the 
 main suite of 6 rooms. The furni- 
 ture is partly Elizabethan, partly of 
 the last cent. "The apartments," 
 wrote Walpole (1752), "are the 
 grandest I have seen in any of these 
 old palaces. There are loads of por- 
 traits, but most of them seem christ- 
 ened by chance, like chikken at a 
 foundling hospital." The pictures 
 are still numerous, and there are 
 many copies— some few, however, 
 are good, though all are in bad condi- 
 tion, this part of the house being 
 damp and iininhabiled. 
 
 The most interesting — many of
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 7. — Fenshurst — Pictures. 
 
 119 
 
 which, it is understood, are about to 
 be removed to the private apart- 
 ments, — are — 
 
 Page's Boom. — "Here," writes 
 Walpole, " are four great curiosities ; 
 I believe as ohl portraits as any 
 existing- in England — Fitzalk-n, Abp. 
 of Canterbury; Hamplirey Statibrd, 
 1st Dulie of IBuckingham ; T. AVent- 
 worth ; and Jolm Foxle — all four with 
 dates of commissions as Constables 
 of Queenborough Castle " (in the I. 
 of Sheppey). "Tiiey are not very 
 ill done. Six more are heads. Sir 
 Edward Hobby, last but one of the 
 Constables, is said to have collected 
 these jjortraits." Jolm Dudley, Duke 
 of Northimiberland, Holbein. Duke 
 of St. Albans, the son of Nell 
 GwjTi. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's Room (the fiu-ni- 
 ture of which is said to have been 
 a present from the queen herself). 
 Sir Philip Sidney, aged about 23, 
 reading, with a stafi' of office in his 
 hand, and his armour about him. 
 His sister, Mary Sidnej% Countess of 
 Pembroke (engraved by Lodge), 
 M. Garrard, — 
 
 " Urauia, sister unto Astrophel, 
 In whose brave mind, as in a golden cofer, 
 All heavenly gifts and riches loiked are ; 
 More rich than pearles of Ynde, or gold of 
 
 Opher, 
 And in her sex most wonderful! and rare." 
 
 Spenser. 
 
 Algernon Sidney, leaning on a 
 book labelled ' Libertas ;" behind are 
 the Tower and the executioner's axe. 
 In the inscription on this picture his 
 name is spelt "Algernoon" — perhaps 
 indicating the manner in which it 
 was then pronounced. The dasli of 
 red in the hair of many of the Sidney 
 portraits may be noticed as confirm- 
 ing the old saying that red-haired per- 
 sons are either very good or very bad. 
 V Le lioux" in this case could be no 
 term of reproach, llobert Dudley, 
 Queen Elizabeth's Earl of Leices- 
 ter : Gerard. Henry Eii-h, Earl of 
 Ilollaud : Vamhjhe. llobert Earl of 
 
 Leicester, 1G32 : Vandyhe. Philip 
 Ijord Lisle (fine) : 'Vandyhe. Bar- 
 bara Gamage, Countess of Leicester, 
 159G, and six children ; very curi- 
 ous : artist ludcnown. George III. : 
 Gainsboroiujh. Queen Charlotte : id. 
 
 Tapestry liooiti. — Edward VI. : 
 Holbein. Sir Henry Sidney, father 
 of Sir Philip. Lady Dorothy Percy, 
 Countess of Leicester, mother of 
 Algernon Sidney, and her sister 
 T^ady Lucy Percy, Countess of 
 Carlisle. Nell G\vyn as Venus : 
 Lely. 
 
 Tlie Gallery.— Lady Blary Dudley, 
 mother of Sir Philip. Algernon 
 Sidney. Hubert Languet, the friend 
 and correspondent of Sir Philip Sid- 
 ney. Dorothea Sichiey (Waller's 
 Sacharissa): Vandyke. The same 
 Dorothea Sidney as Countess of 
 Sunderland : Husheits. Sir William 
 Sidne}% to whom Penshurst was 
 given by Edward VI : Lucas de 
 Heere. Sir Philip Sidney, and his 
 brother Robert, 1st Earl oi' Leicester 
 of this line ; veiy ctuious and inter- 
 esting. Sir Philip is about 16, the 
 younger In-other 13 or 14. "Sidney's 
 keen look " is very marked in this 
 picture. 
 
 An ebony cabinet, a present from 
 James I. to the first Earl of Leices- 
 ter, which formerly stood in this 
 gallery, has been removed. 
 
 Among the other pictures remark 
 a Head of Christ and a IMadonna, 
 attributed to Simone Memmi, 1340; 
 and a Halt of Cavaliers : Wouver- 
 nians. 
 
 The apartments inhabited by the 
 present familj are in the W. front, 
 but are not shown. 
 
 Over the porch is a small wains- 
 cot-lined room, of which the panels 
 are well designed. Its oaken book- 
 cases and reading-desks are temp. 
 Jas. I. 
 
 Besides the great court, the S. 
 side of the hall, and a view in the 
 inner com-t, E. of the Buckingham 
 wing, shoidd be noticed for their
 
 120 
 
 Route 7. — Penshurst. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 fine arcliitectural groupings. In this 
 inner court is a bell, hanging in a 
 wooden frame-work, witli tlie iu- 
 serij>tion, " Robert Earl of Leicester 
 at Penshurst, 1G49." 
 
 Penshurst owes its chief celebrity 
 to the Sidneys, its latest grantees. 
 As early as Edward I. it was the 
 residence of Sir Stephen de Pen- 
 chester, whose effigy is seen in the 
 church. Sir John Devereux embat- 
 tled the house, 11 Rich. II., and it 
 afterwards passed to the liohuus, 
 Hiunplirey Duke of Gloucester, and 
 the Fanes. 6 Edw. VI. it was 
 granted to Sir William Sidney, who 
 commanded a wing of the army at 
 Flodden, and already had a house 
 in the parish. His son. Sir Henry 
 Sidney, Lord Justice of Ireland, 
 married Mary, daughter and finally 
 heiress of John Dudley, Duke of 
 Northumlierland. Sir Phil/'p Sldneij, 
 their eldest son, is sixpposed to have 
 been born here 24th Nov. 1554. He 
 left only a daughter. His sister 
 Mary, celebrated in the 'Arcadia' 
 and in Jonson's famous epitaph— 
 
 " Underneath this marble hearse 
 Lies, the subject of all verse, 
 Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother; 
 Death ! ere thou hast slain another, 
 Learn' d, and fair, and "ood as she, 
 Time shall throw a dart at thee," — 
 
 married Henry Earl of Pembroke. 
 Sir Robert Sidney, Philip Sidney's 
 next brother, was created Viscount 
 Lisle and Earl of Leicester. He 
 died here, 1026, and has a toml) in the 
 church. Robert, 3rd Earl, married 
 Dorothy Percy, and was father of 
 Lorofhij, "Waller's Sacharissa, who 
 married, 1st, Robert Earl of Sunder- 
 land, and 2nd, Robert Smith of 
 Bid1)orough. Her brother was 
 Algernon Sidney, beheaded lG8;->, 
 whose brother, Jocelyn, was 7th and 
 last earl. The estate eventually, by 
 a daughter, passed to the Perrys, 
 whose heiress married Sir Bysshe 
 ShcUey, ancestor of the present 
 possessor, whose father assumed 
 
 the name of Sidney, and was created 
 Lord de lisle. Anne, a natural 
 daugliter of Earl Jocelyn, married 
 Streatfeild of Chiddingstone, and 
 had the Glamorgan estates which 
 came with Barbara Gamage. This 
 brief sketch will explain most of the 
 inscriptions, arms, and pictures. 
 
 The scenery of the Fark, once 
 much more extensive, should be ex- 
 plored at leism-e. After long neglect, 
 it is regaining much of its ancient 
 dignity. "The park is forlorn," 
 wrote Walpole : " instead of Saccha- 
 rissa's cijjher carved on the beeches, 
 I should sooner have expected to 
 have found the milkwomau's score." 
 To most visitors Penshurst will now 
 suggest feelings very difterent from 
 those with which Walpole regarded 
 it. The thoroughly English charac- 
 ter of Sir Pliilip Sidney — a character 
 wliich has been more or less dis- 
 played by the nolilest of his fellow- 
 countrymen from the days of the 
 Black Prince to those of lukerman 
 and Delhi, and to which, far more 
 titan to his learning, he is indebted 
 for his lasting reputation, found but 
 little favour at StrawVjerry Hill. (See 
 Walpolc's curious letter to David 
 Humi', July, 1758.) Very differently 
 writes Southey : — 
 
 "... Tiead 
 As with a pilgrim's reverential thoughts 
 The groves of Penshurst. Sidney here was 
 
 born. 
 Sidney, than whom no gi'eater, braver man 
 His own delightful genius ever feign 'd 
 Illustrating the groves of Arcady 
 With courteous courage and with loj'al 
 
 love." 
 
 If the ' Arcadia ' was not actually 
 written here, many of its descrip- 
 tions may liave been suggested by 
 the surrounding country, which still 
 displays the " accomiianiable soH- 
 tarinesse " so greatly loved by the 
 hero of Zutphen. The picture of 
 Ijaconia might still pass for that of 
 Penshurst and its neighbourhood. 
 "Tliere were hils which garnished
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 
 
 -Penshurst. 
 
 121 
 
 their proud heights with stately 
 trees; humble vallies whose base 
 estate seemed comforted with the 
 refreshing of silver rivers ; medowes 
 enamelled with all sorts of eie-pleas- 
 ing flowers; thickets, which being 
 lined with most pleasant shade were 
 witnessed so too, by the cheerfuU 
 disposition of many well-timed birds : 
 each pasture stored with sheep feed- 
 ing with sober security, while the 
 pretty lambs with bleating oratory 
 craved the dammes comfort : here a 
 shejiheards boy piping, as though 
 hee should never be old; there a 
 yong shepheardess knitting, and 
 withal singing, and it seemed that 
 her voyce comforted her hands to 
 worke, and her hands kept time to 
 lier voice-music. As for the houses 
 of the countrey (for many houses 
 came under their eye), they were all 
 scattered, no two being one by 
 th' other, and yet not so farre off as 
 that it barred mutuall succour; a 
 shew, as it were, of an accompaniable 
 solitarinesse, and of a civill wild- 
 nesse." — Arcadia, lib. i. 
 
 The best points of view are gained 
 in the line of the long avenue tliat led 
 from Penshurst to Leigh. The scene 
 from a barn near the Leigh end of the 
 avenue should especially be noticed. 
 The venerable beeches of Sacha- 
 rissa's Walk are also to be visited. 
 They are commemorated in Waller's 
 lines : — 
 
 Ye lofty beeches ! tell this matchless dame 
 That if together ye fed all one flame, 
 It could not equalize the hundredth part 
 Of what her eyes have kindled in my heart ! 
 
 "Wliile in this park I sing, the listening deer 
 Attend my passion, and forget to fear. 
 When to the beeches I report my flame, 
 They bow their heads, as if they felt the 
 same." 
 
 And directly in front of the gateway 
 four stunted limes mark the site of 
 Barbara Gamage's Boifer, once a 
 woody coppice praised by Ben Jonson 
 for its never-failing supply of " sea- 
 soned deer." 
 \_Kent & Sussex.'] 
 
 Bear's Oal; above the large pond 
 called Sancup "Well (and Lineup by 
 the natives), is said to be the tree 
 referred to by Waller — • 
 
 " Goe, boy, and carve this passion on the 
 
 bark 
 Of yonder tree, which stands the sacred 
 
 mark 
 Of noble Sidney's birth " — . . . 
 
 n d by Ben Jonson, as 
 
 " This taller tree, of which a nut was set 
 At his great birth where all the muses met'' 
 
 Near the " lofty beeches " was the 
 heronry of which the colonists are 
 now established at Parham in Sussex. 
 
 Penshurst Church, which lias l^eeu 
 lately restored, closely adjoins the 
 mansion. It was rebuilt in a debased 
 Gothic ; but some parts of the interior 
 seem portions of the older structure. 
 In the ch. are a part of the effigy of 
 Sir Stephen de Penchester, temp. 
 Edw. I., and some monuments with 
 effigies of the -Sithieys. Brasses: two 
 wives of Watur Draynocott and 7 
 children, 1507; Paco'le Iden, ISGi ; 
 Margaret Sidney, d. 15.58, infant 
 daughter of Sir Henry, and sister of 
 Sir Philip ; and one imnamed of the 
 15tli cent. There is also a small 
 brass cross fur "Thos. Bullayen, sou 
 of Sir T. Bullayen :" no date. Built 
 into the interior wall of the tower 
 are two stone cotfiu-lids, found under 
 the N. aisle. One displays in relief 
 the ujiper part of a female figure in 
 tlie attitude of j^i'ayer, clinging to a 
 floriated Greek cross; the face has 
 great expression. On the other 
 cotfin-lid is a floriated Latin cross of 
 elaborate design. The eminent Dr. 
 Hammond was rector here from l(j33 
 to the sequestration in 1G43, and 
 resided in the present rectory. Sir 
 John Temple had married his sister ; 
 and their son, William Tempk^ the 
 futiu-e statesman, was educated by 
 his uncle at Penshurst until the se- 
 questration, when he was sent to 
 school at Bishop's Stortford. 
 
 G
 
 122 
 
 Route 7. — Taulridfje — Cadle. 
 
 Sect. T. 
 
 There arc some old houses in the 
 village worth notice, and the Tun, 
 the Leicester Arms (where carriages 
 may be hired), afl'ords tolerable ac- 
 commodation. 
 
 ■5 m. N. is South Park (Lord 
 Hardinge). From the hill on which 
 the house stands are fine views 
 toward the ridge of Tunbridge 
 Wells. 
 
 41 m. from London we reach 
 Tunbridge (Junction Station). Inn: 
 Eose and Crown. Sevenoaks and 
 Knole (Lady Amherst), 7 m. 1., may 
 be visited from here (see Rte. 6). 
 An omnibus leaves Tunbridge Sta- 
 tion for Sevenoaks twice during the 
 day. The drive is a vti'y beautifid 
 one. 
 
 1. is the branch to Tnnhridije Welh, 
 5 m. (see Sussex). 
 
 Tuuljridge is built on ground rising 
 from the banks of the Medway, 
 wliieh here divides into several 
 branches and winds round toward 
 the N. The spire of St. Stephen's, a 
 modern Dee. ch., first catches the 
 eye on leaving the station. The 
 Checquers Inu, in the High Street, is 
 an excellent specimen of an old 
 Kentish timbered house. I'here are 
 man}' others of similar character. 
 
 Adjoining the principal bridge over 
 the Medway is the chief manufactory 
 of Tunbridge ware, the best siieci- 
 mens of which find their way to 
 Tunbridge Wells. 
 
 At the end of the town is the 
 (rrammur School, founded in 1553 
 by Sir Andrew Judd, a native of 
 Tunbridge, who bequeathed lands 
 for its support in trust to tlie Skin- 
 ners" Com})any. The revenues are 
 now very considerable. 1(3 exhibi- 
 tions, of 100/. ii-year each, are at- 
 tached to this school, tenable at 
 either University, besides 12 others 
 of lesser value. Among the remark- 
 able scholars was Sir Sidney Smith, 
 of Syrian reputation. Of tiie build- 
 ing itself, tlie centre is as olil as the 
 foundation ; tlie 2 whiKs are modern. 
 
 Tlie arms on tlie front are those of 
 Sir Andrew Judd (the boars" heads) 
 and tiie Skinners' Comjiauy (fleurs-de- 
 lys). From the playground there is 
 a very good view over the surround- 
 ing country. 
 
 The Church, large and old, has 
 been sadly disfigured. It was granted 
 bv Roger de Clare, temp. Hen. II., 
 to the Knights Hospitallers. The 
 tower and nave are l)ec. with some 
 Perp. additions. The chancel has 
 on either side two small round- 
 headed windows, high in the wall, 
 which luaij lie early Norm. Within 
 are mutilated effigies of Sir Anthony 
 Denton and wife, temp. Jas. I. 
 ]\Iany de Clares were mterred here, 
 l)ut have no memorials remaining. 
 
 The Castle stands on the Medway, 
 near the entrance of the town. It 
 is shown. The entrance is across a 
 filled-up moat and through a noble 
 gate-tower of great size and tolerably 
 I)erfect. Note the excellence of the 
 masonry ; the durability of the very 
 soft stone ; the holes for the pivots 
 of the drawbridge, much higher than 
 usual; the extraordinary number of 
 perforations in the vault ; on the 
 1. a piscina marking the entrance 
 to a chapel ; above, the state-room, 
 with large and handsome windows ; 
 and generally, the various mould- 
 ings and enrichments, rare in castel- 
 lated buildings, and showing this to 
 be of the Eaily Dec. period, 1280- 
 1:500. 
 
 Beyond the gate-tower is the inner 
 ward; 1., beyond the modern house, 
 is a wall with fragments of Norm, 
 and E. E. work ; and forming a part 
 of the enceinte of this ward is the 
 so-called Norman Mound, on which 
 stood the keeji, covering an acre, 
 100 ft. above the river, and 70 above 
 the court. On its top is a shell of 
 wall which may be Norm. A walk 
 leads from this mound, along a thick 
 curtain wall, to the upper story of 
 the gate-tower. Under this curtain 
 is an arch, which seems to have been
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 7. — Tunhridge — Hadlow — Somerhill. 
 
 123 
 
 a water-gato, by means of which 
 boats could be brought from the 
 Medway, along the moat, into the 
 inner ward. Tlie arrangement is 
 peculiar and deserves examinatioia. 
 
 The keep-mound was probably the 
 work of Kichard Fitzgilbert, who 
 acquired the estate in exchange with 
 Abji. Lanfranc, and established a 
 jurisdiction over the " leuca " or 
 " lowy " of Tunhridge. The later 
 earls added the gate-tower, and dug 
 the outer moats, which include or 
 7 acres. 
 
 The descendants of Fitzgilbert 
 assumed the name of De Clare, and 
 the castle descended with the other 
 estates of that great house to the 
 Audleys and Statfords. It was for- 
 feited by the Dvikc of Buckingham 
 to Eichard III., and afterwards at 
 various times regranted to Cardinal 
 Pole, Dudley Duke of Northumber- 
 land, and Carey Lord Himsdon. It 
 is now the property of Jerningham 
 Lord Statford, a rej)resentative of its 
 ancient owners. 
 
 The Castle was besieged and taken 
 by Henry III. before the battle of 
 Lewes ; Gilbert de Clare, its then 
 owner, having joined the party of 
 the barons. His ancestor, Richard 
 de Clare, was one of the chief oppo- 
 nents of Kmg John. 
 
 The lords of Tunhridge were here- 
 ditary chief butlers and stewards of 
 the Abps. of Canterbury, and at- 
 tended their enthronization feasts in 
 great state. At their termination 
 they claimed the right of remaining 
 three daj^s in one of the Archbp.'s 
 manors " ad sanguinem minuen- 
 dam," — a process looked forward to 
 as necessary after the streams of 
 liippocras and malvoisie set flowing 
 in the hall at Canterbury. The 
 earls, however, may have had their 
 own wine-vfits nearer home, for 
 Hasted asserts that a vineyard ex- 
 isted at tlie castle when he wrote, 
 " from wliich cpiantities of exceeding 
 good and well-flavoured wine was 
 
 produced.'' This was planted by a 
 Mr. Hooker toward the middle of 
 the last century, who, while thus 
 appropriating the enclosure, built the 
 present dwelling-house with part of 
 the ruins. " We honoured the man 
 for his taste," wrote Walpole, who 
 ought rather to have condemned 
 his Vandalism ; " not but that we 
 wished the committee at Strawberry 
 Hill were to sit upon it, and stick 
 cypresses among the hollows. But, 
 alas! he sometimes makes 18 sour 
 hogsheads, and is going to disrobe 
 the ' ivy-inantled tower ' because it 
 harbours birds." 
 
 The Lowy of Timbridge, 5 m. 
 long, 6 m. wide, surroiuided the 
 castle. In it were two gi-eat chaces, 
 the N. and 8. Frith, well tilled with 
 deer, for the earls' disjiort. 
 
 Nearly on the site of the railway 
 station was a priory of Premonstra- 
 tensian Canons, founded by Eichard 
 de Clare, temj). Hen. II. Its few re- 
 mains were entirely destroyed during 
 the construction of the line in I8-10. 
 
 Hadhiiv Church, 2^ m., was at- 
 tached to the preeeptory of Hospi- 
 tallers in West Peckham, the ad- 
 joining parish. In it is a monu- 
 ment for Sir John Eivers and wife, 
 temp. Jas. I. 
 
 ILidhw Castle (W. B. IMay, Esq.— 
 it is entirely modern) is rendered con- 
 s})ieuous by its lofty prospect tower 
 of stone and Ijrick, seen from the 
 railway, 1., after leaving Tunhridge. 
 
 SuinerhiU (Huron Goldsmid), 1^ m. 
 rt., a large James I. house, stands in 
 the S. Frith, and was a favourite 
 haunt of the courtiers during the 
 visits of Charles II. to Tunl)ridge 
 Wells. It was then the property 
 of Lady Muskerry, the " Baliylonian 
 Princess " of Grammont's Memoirs. 
 The house was built 1624 by Eichard 
 Burgh, Earl of Clarence and Baron 
 Somerhill. An earlier mansion here 
 bad belonged to Sir Piiilip Sidney, 
 and afterwards to Queen Elizabeth "s 
 Earl of Leicester; and the present
 
 12-t 
 
 Route 7. — Somerhill. — Yalding. — Nettlested. Sect I. 
 
 house was granted by Cromwell to 
 I'resideut Bradsliaw " iu return for 
 bis great service to bis country." 
 " There is now," says Walpole, who 
 made a pilgrimage to Somerhill in 
 1752, " scarce a road to it. The 
 paladins of those times were too 
 valorous to fear breaking tlieir 
 necks; and I much api:)rehend that 
 ' La Monsery' and the fair Ma- 
 demoiselle Hamilton must have 
 mounted their palfreys and rode 
 l)ehind their gentlemen-ushers upon 
 pillions to the Wells. . . , The Ikjusc 
 is little better than a farm ; but has 
 been an excellent one, and is entire, 
 tboixgh out of repair. ... It stands 
 high, commands a vast landscape 
 beautifully wooded, and has quan- 
 tities of large old trees to shelter 
 itself, some of whiclx might be well 
 spared to open views." Roads and 
 house have alike been restored, and 
 Somerhill is now a most picturesque 
 object from whatever point it comes 
 into sight. 
 
 The Church of Pembury, 1 m. 
 beyond Somerhill, has some Norm, 
 portioiis. 
 
 From Timbridge the rail passes 
 through a richly wooded country 
 shut in by distant hills to 
 
 46 m. Paddock's Wood. (June. 
 Sta.) 
 
 A line here branches off, 1., to 
 Maidstone, 11 m., following for tiie 
 greater part of its course the valley 
 of the Medway, here very rich and 
 beautiful. The old turnpike-road 
 from Maidstone to Tunbridge, which 
 runs through the same district (here 
 known as " the Garden of Eden "), 
 used to be called the " finest 10 
 miles in Enghmd," and, so far as 
 fertility and ricliness of soil are con- 
 cerned, this corner of Kent is perhaps 
 entitled to retain its pre-eminence. 
 " It is a district of meadows, corn- 
 fields, hop-gardens, and orchards of 
 apples, pears, cherries, and filberts ; 
 with very little of any land which 
 cannot be called good with pro- 
 
 priety. There are plantations of 
 cliesimt and ash; and as these are 
 cut, when long enough, to make 
 l^oles for hops, they are at all times 
 objects of great beauty. From Maid- 
 stone to Slereworth are the finest 
 7 m. I have seen in this county. 
 The Medway is on your 1., with its 
 meadows about a mile wide. I 
 should think there were hop-gardens 
 one-half of the way on both sides of 
 the road. Looking across the Med- 
 way you see hop-gardens and 
 orchards 2 m. deep on the side of a 
 gently rising ground." — Cohhett. 
 
 The branch line, after p)assing for 
 3 m. through a hop-covered plain, 
 reaches 
 
 Yalding — in Domesday Ealdingen 
 — " a praty townlet," says Leland — 
 standing on the confluence of a 
 stream called the Bewle with the 
 Medway. In the pavement of the 
 cli. are slal)S of a marlile crowded 
 with minute shells, resembling that 
 of Bethersden and foimd in the 
 parish. 
 
 Bockingfold, in the S. part of the 
 parish, is called by Twine (de Eeb. 
 Albion.) " the forest of Buchius- 
 wald " (Beech-wood), and mentioned 
 as one of the great Kentish woods, 
 iu which wild animals still lingered 
 temp. Eliz. 
 
 Bnrston, in Hunton parish, E. of 
 Yalding, formerly the seat of the 
 Fanes, but now a farmhouse, com- 
 mands a fine view over the Weald, 
 the range of gault and sandstone hills 
 which form the outliers of the chalk 
 beginning to rise here. 
 
 The Peip. Chm-ch of Nettlested, 
 2 ra. W. of Yalding, retains most 
 of its original glazing, that of the 
 chancel being more simple than that 
 in the nave. All the windows have 
 been shifted, however, within recent 
 memory. The stained glass here 
 is very good, and deserves careful 
 notice. That now in the nave 
 (figures under canopies) is of the 
 latter part of the reign of Henry VI.
 
 KliXT. 
 
 Piouti 7. — Wateringhury . — Went PeclJic 
 
 am. 
 
 125 
 
 That in the chancel (herakh'y, em- 
 blems, &c.) appears from an inscrip- 
 tion to have been pnt up in 1405. 
 In the E. window are portraits of 
 the donors. The S. windows of the 
 nave were destroyed by a storm. 
 Not far from the ch. are some re- 
 mains of Nettlested Place, the resi- 
 dence of the Pimpe family from the 
 reign of Edward I. It came through 
 heiresses to tlie Scotts, who at the 
 beginning of last century alienated 
 it to the Botelers of Teston. 
 
 6 m. Wuteringhnry. The village 
 has been almost entirely rebuilt 
 in the last few years by the late 
 Alderman Lucas, whose family 
 possess Water iiighury Place, and con- 
 siderable property here, purchased 
 from the present Sir Charles Style, 
 Bart., whose ancestors held Water- 
 ingbury from the reign of James I. 
 The present house is a Queen Anne 
 structure. 
 
 The Church, seen on the high 
 ground 1., is Perp. with an E. E. 
 tower. In the chm-chyard is the 
 monument of Sir Oliver Style, whose 
 marvellous escape from an earth- 
 quake at Smyrna is commemorated 
 in the inscription. He was at dinner 
 witli a large party, including a lady 
 to whom he was engaged, when the 
 earth suddenly yawned, and all 
 perished except Sir Oliver. The 
 Hsitor may seek here for " the dumb 
 })orsholder of Chart," which was 
 carefidly preserved at the beginning 
 of the century. The "dumb bors- 
 liolder " claimed lilterty over fifteen 
 houses within the parish, every 
 householder of which was obliged to 
 pay the borsholder's keeper one 
 I)enny yearly. This kee])er was 
 elected annually. " The dumb bors- 
 holder was always first called at the 
 f'ourtleet hokh^n for the hundred of 
 Twyford.in which Wateringl)ury lies; 
 whenits kecptrheldit up with aneck- 
 cloth or handk(^rchief j)ut through 
 the iron ring fixed at tlie toj), and 
 answered for it. It was made of 
 
 [Kent & Sussex.'] 
 
 wood, about ?> ft. 0^ in. long, with 
 an iron ling at the top, and 1 more 
 by the sides, near the bottom, where 
 was a square iron spike, to fix it in 
 the ground, or on occasion to break 
 open doors, which was done without 
 a warrant of any justice on suspicion 
 of goods unlawfully concealed in 
 any of the 15 liouses. ' — (Hasted.) 
 Chart is the name of a i=mall manor 
 in the parish in which a market 
 granted by Edward II. is tradition- 
 ally said to have been held. 
 
 The dumb borsholder and the 
 courtleet for this hundred were dis- 
 continued toward the middle of the 
 last century ; but it was long pre- 
 served (and still may be) by the 
 heirs of Thonias Clampard, a black- 
 smith, its hii-t deputy. Its origin is 
 altogether unknown, though it clearly 
 belonged to the class of symbols 
 occurring so frequently in the pro- 
 ceedings of Saxon and Scandinavian 
 law-courts. 
 
 In the parish of East Teckliaia, 
 W. of Wateringbury, is Iloydon Hall, 
 the residence of AV. Cooke, Esq. ; 
 tkroughout the troubled times of 
 the Civil War, and afterwards, of 
 Sir Iloger Twysden, a name well 
 known and venerated by scholars 
 and archaeologists. He is buried in 
 the cliurch. The family of Twysden 
 obtained this estate by marriage 
 with the co-heiress of Thomas Roy- 
 don, wdio died temj). Pli. and Mary. 
 
 In West Peeliliam, the adjoining- 
 parish, a preceptory of Knights Hos- 
 pitallers was established on land 
 granted them l>y Sir John Cole- 
 peper in 1-±0S. Here are the 
 " Hurst "" wood.s, famous for their wild 
 swine as late as Elizabeth's reign. 
 
 I2 m. W. of Wateringbury h Mere- 
 ■ivorth Castle (Viscountess Fahiioutli), 
 much frequented by excursionists 
 for the sake of the surrounding 
 scenery, which is very beautiful. As 
 much cannot be said for the house, 
 though Walpole thought it " so per- 
 fect in a Pa.lladiau taste, that I must 
 
 H
 
 126 
 
 Boute 7. — East Farleigh. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 own it lias recovered me a little from 
 Gothic."— ( Lf-/^f J- to Bcntletj, 1752.) 
 It was Iniilt (toward the middle of 
 last century) after a design of Pal- 
 ladio's (the Villa della Capra), made 
 for " a noble Vicentine gentleman," 
 " in a situation pleasant and de- 
 lightful, and nearly like this," with 
 the trifling exceptions of climate and 
 association. On either side of the 
 main house are detached buildings 
 of similar design, one containing the 
 Ivitchens and offices, the other being 
 the stables. This last occupies the 
 site of the ancient ch., whose Gothi- 
 cisms by no means harmonized with 
 Yicentiue palaces, and were accord- 
 ingly replaced, at a judicious dis- 
 tance, by the i)resent building in a 
 " classic " style, adorned " with a 
 steeple that seems designed for the 
 latitude of Cheapside, and is so tall 
 that the poor churcli curtsies under 
 it, like Mary Eich in a vast higli- 
 crowned hat." — (^WaJpolc.') Witliin 
 are some old monmnents of Nevilles 
 and Fanes removed from the former 
 ch. ; among them, tliat of the 1st 
 Earl of Westmoreland. Through the 
 noble woods at the back of the house, 
 " Ti)-oke," says Walpole, " like an 
 Albano landscape with an octagon 
 temple and a triumphal arch," a 
 great avenue is cut, 3 m. in length. 
 Merewortli became the pi-operty of 
 the Fanes, temp. Eliz., through a 
 marriage with the heiress of Neville 
 Lord Aljergavenny. 
 
 Adjoining IVIereworth is Yokes 
 Court ( — Harriman, Esq.). 
 
 Tlie line now passes through an 
 undulating country, nowhere rising 
 into lofty hills, but rich with 
 orchards and hop-grounds. The 
 full, quietly flowing river, rt., with 
 its wooded banks, give^ much beauty 
 to the landscape, which at the vil- 
 lage of Teston, passed 1. before reach- 
 ing the Farleigh S-tation, is very 
 picturesque. The Medway is here 
 crossed by a bridge of 7 arches. 
 Stretching up behind the village is 
 
 the park of Barliam Court (Rt. Hon. 
 T. Pemberton Leigh), from which 
 the views over the Medway valley 
 are very striking. The manor here, 
 says tradition — there is no other 
 authority — belonged to Reginald 
 Fitzurse, one of the murderers of 
 Becket, and on his flight into Ire- 
 land it was taken jiossession of by 
 his kinsman, Robert de Berham, in 
 whose family it remained till the 
 reign of James I. After passing 
 through the hands of the Botilers 
 and Bouveries, it came to Sir Charles 
 Middleton, created Lord Barham, 
 whose grandson, the present Earl of 
 Gainsborough, lias lately sold the 
 estate. The present house is modern. 
 
 The Chru-ch of Wed Farlcirjli, seen 
 on the hill, rt., is E. E. Tlie view, 
 rt., from tlie station of 
 
 9 m. East Farleigh, should be 
 noticed. The ch. (for tlie most 
 part late Dec.) is seen among trees 
 on its hill, rt. Below is a very pic- 
 turesque ancient bridge, with ribbed 
 arches, here crossing the Medway. 
 In all directions are seen lioi^- 
 gardens, with their attendant lines 
 of ash " spinnies," for tlie supply of 
 poles. " There are not 5 parishes 
 in Kent, large or small, that have so 
 many acres of hops as this little 
 parish of East Farleigh. There is no 
 place in all England whose hops 
 will fetch a better price. Here 
 dwelt the Rothschild of hop-growers" 
 (James Ellis), " whose hop-poles 
 alone were said to be worth 70,000Z. ; 
 and here dwell his descendants still, 
 tliough their grounds are little more 
 than a tithe of his. The luxuriance 
 of hops about here is a puzzle to 
 theoretical agriculturists. ' Though 
 ricli mould," says Bannister, ' gene- 
 rally produces a larger growth of 
 hojis than other soils, there is one 
 exception to this rule, where the 
 growth is frequently 18 or 20 hun- 
 dred per acre. This is the neigh- 
 bourhood of IMaidstone, a kind of 
 slaty ground with an understratum
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 7. — Horsmonchn, — Cranlrook. 
 
 127 
 
 of stone. There tlie vines run up 
 to the top of tlie longest poles, and 
 the increase is equal to tlie most 
 fertile soil of any kind.' " — {House- 
 hold Words, vol. vi.) 
 
 The banks on either side approach 
 nearer the line as we reach 
 
 21 m. Maidstone. (See Etc. 5.) 
 
 [rt. of Paddock's Wood station, the 
 village of lin-ncldi'ij, i m., has some 
 good old timbered houses. Brencldey 
 Toll, a clump of trees on the high 
 groimd near the village, is the land- 
 mark of all this district. 
 
 Horsmonden Church, "Ih m. beyond 
 Brenchlej-, contains the very fine 
 brass of John de Grofhur.st, l."30, 
 probably the work of a French artist. 
 He wears the chasuble, -ornamented 
 with a central pall-shaped apparel : 
 this, and the other ornaments 
 tlu-oughout, are of unusually good 
 design. The inscription across the 
 breast records the gift by De Grof- 
 hurst of the manor of 'Leueshothe ' to 
 Bayham Abbey. The wooden porch 
 of this ch., with its rich Dec. barge- 
 boards, should be noticed. The fa- 
 mily of Grovehiu-st, long settled at 
 Grovehurst in this parish, became 
 extinct in the male line temp. Eich. 
 II. Lewisheath, the manor granted 
 to Bayham, is also in Horsmonden. 
 
 At Badmonden was a cell attached 
 to the priory of Beaulieu in Nor- 
 mandy. 
 
 Spelmonden, an ancient manoi", S. 
 of the ch., now a farm-house, has 
 some fragments indicating former 
 importance. The Weald on this side 
 of the railway is still much covered 
 with oak-wood, and as it rises to- 
 ward the ridge of Brenchley and 
 Horsmonden the views become very 
 picturesipU'.] 
 
 Passing between hop-grounds on 
 cither side, the line reaches 
 
 51 m. Mar den. 
 
 3^ m. 1. is Linton Place (Lord 
 
 Cornwallis). In the Churcli of Lin- 
 ton are some good monuments by 
 Bailey for members of the Corn- 
 wallis family. (See Etc. 5, Excursion 
 from Maidstone.) 
 
 53 m. from London is the station 
 oi Staplehurst (distant 1^ m.). The 
 ch. has some Dec. portions, and on 
 the S. door is some curiously orna- 
 mented iron-work. The village, in 
 which are several ohl timbered 
 houses, commands a good view over 
 the Weald. The Peip. Church of 
 Frittendcn, 2 m., has 1^'en lately 
 restored. 
 
 [Adjoining the Staplehurst sta- 
 tion is the South-Eastern Hotel 
 (good), where conveyances may be 
 procured for visiting 
 
 Cranhroolc, (J m., the principal vil- 
 lage of the Weald, built on the out- 
 lying ridge of Hastings sand, that 
 extends from Tunbridge Wells to 
 Eolvenden. (Tliere is also a coach 
 which leaves tlie Staplehurst station 
 for Cranbrook 3 times daih'.) The 
 old importance of Cranbrook arose 
 froin its being the centre of the 
 clothing trade, introduced here by. 
 the liody of Flemings whom Edward 
 111. induced to settle in England. 
 The broadcloth manufactm-e was 
 concentrated and carried on at Cran- 
 brook long before the introduction 
 of macliinury elsewhere. Blost of 
 the landed proprietors in the Weald 
 took part in it ; and " the grey- 
 coats of Kent,"' as they were called 
 from the dress worn by them of their 
 own cloth, carried all before them 
 in county matters. The cloth-works 
 ceased here toward the beginning of 
 the present centmy ; but there are 
 still some remains of the old fac- 
 tories in tlie principal street, not 
 unpictvu-esqite with gables and barge- 
 boards. There is a story tluit Queen 
 Elizabeth, after visiting Cranl)rook 
 and the factories, walked to Com'sc- 
 horue manor, a mile distant, the seat 
 of the llencUevs, entu-ely on broad- 
 cloth. 
 
 H 2
 
 128 
 
 Route 7. — Cranhrooh. — Ileadcorn. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 The large Church of Craiibrook, 
 principally Dec. and Pc)-]"*., retains 
 some of its ancient glass. The porcli 
 and lower part of tower have groined 
 roofs. The bearing-shafts of the old 
 nave-roof (removed) are still at- 
 tached to the walls. There are one 
 or two late brasses of no great in- 
 terest. The more recent monu- 
 ments and the whitewash which the 
 church exhiliits are not to be com- 
 mended. A curious custom pre- 
 vails here and in some of the adjoin- 
 ing parishes. When a newly-married 
 couple leave the church, the path is 
 strewed with emblems of the bride- 
 groom's calling. Thus, cai-penters 
 walk on shavings, butchers on sheep- 
 skins, shoemakers on leather-par- 
 ings, and blacksmiths on scraps of 
 old iron. 
 
 Stssinghurst, a corniption of Saxen- 
 hurst, to' which family it gave name, 
 in this parish, was the birthplace of 
 Sir Eich.Caker,thechronicler, whose 
 family settled here temp. Hen. VII. 
 The house, which was very stately, 
 was built by Sir John Baker, temp. 
 Edw. VI. After having been long 
 uninhabited it was, toward the end 
 of tlie last century, made a place of 
 confinement for French prisoners, 
 and has since been pulled down 
 piecemeal. The great entrance and 
 some other fragments remain. Tlie 
 situation is low, but the ruins and 
 the woodland about them are worth 
 u visit. 
 
 Cranbrook (Inns : the George ; tlie 
 Bull) will be found a good centre 
 from which to explore the jHctu- 
 rt'sque country lying on the Sussex 
 border. A descent may be made 
 from hereon Uawldiurst, and thence 
 to liohertsJtridge. (See Sussex, post.) 
 
 3 m. E. is iToudliursf, once a cloth- 
 ing town like Cranbrook. The 
 church tower, raised on one of the 
 loftiest hills in this part of Kent, 
 deser\'es climbing for the sake of 
 the noble and wide-spreading views 
 commanded from it. The ch. itself 
 
 contains many monuments of the 
 Colepepers, the earliest of whicli 
 are two effigies of the 15th cent, in 
 wood, lying on a tomb in the S. 
 aisle. Brass : John Bedgebury, 1 1 50. 
 In the village remark a very curious 
 doorway to a cottage, " of oak, cinque- 
 foiled, with two quatrefoiled circles 
 in each spandril." {J. H.Parker.) It 
 is of the 15th cent. 
 
 In the neighbourhood are Finch- 
 corlis (once the seat of the Bathursts, 
 whose ancestor acquired it by in- 
 termarriage with the Hordens, temp. 
 Eliz.) ; and Bedgebury Baric (A. B. 
 Hope, Esq.), long the residence of 
 the Bedgeljurys and Colepepers. 
 The woods and grounds siu-rounding 
 it are very fine. At Kihidown, ad- 
 joining the park, is a small and very 
 beautiful district ch. erected by Mr. 
 Hope in 1840. The stained glass, 
 exhibiting figures of English saints, 
 among which is a " Carolus Eex et 
 Martyr," is Munich work, and a fine 
 specimen of that school of glass- 
 painting. The absence of clear 
 lights, caused by a heavy coat of 
 white cement laid over the back of 
 the glass (a distinguishing feature 
 of Munich glass), is as apparent here 
 as in the windows of the IMaria Hilf 
 Church at Munich. ( a Wiitston.) The 
 chapel is much enrichedthroughout.] 
 
 56 m. Headcorn. 
 
 The ch. here is Perp., with some 
 fragments of stained glass. The 
 panelled roof, the font, and some 
 carved bench-ends, deserve notice. 
 In the churchyard is an enormous 
 oak, 40 ft. in circumference, the upper 
 branches of Avhich have perished. 
 There are some picturesque points 
 near the village, on the stream of 
 the Beult. 
 
 At Motteiiden, in this parish, was 
 the first house of Crouched (crossed) 
 Friars established in England, temp. 
 Hen. III. There are no remains. 
 The friars were famous for their 
 Miracle play acted in the ch. on 
 Trinity-Sunday.
 
 Kkxt. 
 
 Route 
 
 ■Biddenden. — Tentcrden . 
 
 129 
 
 [TL-nterden, 8^ m., la reached from 
 this statiuu. An oniuibiis meets 
 the early trains. 
 
 The road lies entirely through the 
 Weald, (A.-S. forest, or wood) ; the 
 termination den, which aboimds in 
 this district, marking, like the nu- 
 merous hursts, the ancient depth of 
 forest, much of which still lingers. 
 Mr. Kemhlu has suggested that the 
 ancient Mark (the common settle- 
 ment of the iirst Saxon colonists) 
 is to be recognised by following 
 the names of places ending in den, 
 " which always denoted cnhile fera- 
 rum, or pasture, usually for swine." 
 These dens were in the circle of un- 
 cleared forest which surrounded the 
 settled habitations of the jNIark ; and 
 the coimuon right of the Markruen 
 to i^asture their cattle and s%\-ine in 
 them was regulated by a general 
 court. Such a " Court of Dens " 
 existed for this part of Kent until 
 comparatively recent times, having 
 gradually, from its original form, taken 
 that of a " Lord's Court." It was 
 held at Aldington, near Hythe, and 
 claimed jurisdiction over 44. " Dens," 
 the greater part of which may still be 
 traced " along the edge of the Weald, 
 mtliin whose shades the swains 
 found mast and pasture." — Kemhle, 
 Sax. in England, i. 481. 
 
 About half way from Headcoru to 
 Tenterden is 
 
 Biddenden, where is a ch. of some 
 interest, with portions ranging from 
 E. E. to late Peii). The E. E. font 
 is worth notice. . 
 
 On the afternoon of Easter Sun- 
 day a quantity of cakes, stamped 
 with the figures of two women, 
 united at the sides after the fashion 
 of the Siamese twins, are distributed 
 in the ch. porch to all comers. 
 Bread and cheese, to a considerable 
 amount, are given at the same time 
 to the poorer parishioners. This, 
 saj-s tradition, was the legacy of 
 twin-sisters, called " The Maids of 
 Biddenden," who lived for 30 years 
 
 luiited according to the represen- 
 tation on the cakes. Tradition- 
 disturbing antiquaries, however, in- 
 sist that the figures are those of 
 2 poor widows, the Biddenden art- 
 conception of " Charity," and that 
 the cakes were the gift of 2 maiden 
 ladies named Preston, who left 20 
 acres of land to the parish for this 
 piu-pose. 
 
 At Standen, 5 m. E. of the ch., is 
 an interesting timbered hoiise, built 
 1578. Over the front door is the 
 sentence, " Blessed are they that 
 hear the word of God and keepeth 
 it." The chimney-pieces are of 
 Weald marl)lc, abounding through- 
 out the district. Altogether, this 
 specimen of a Wealden dwelling de- 
 serves examination. It may here be 
 mentioned that somewhere in the 
 Weald— the exact spot is ludiuown — 
 was the birthplace of William Cax- 
 ton, the first English printer, d. 1404. 
 " I was born," he says, " and lerned 
 myne EnglLsh in Kente, in the Weeld, 
 where English is spoken broad and 
 rude." 
 
 4 m. further through the Weald 
 lies Tenterden (Inn, the White Lion), 
 the famous cause of the Goodwin 
 sands ; the tall Perp. tower becom- 
 uig consiiicuous as the village is 
 approached. The ch. itself, ded. to 
 St. Mildred of Thanet, is of various 
 dates, the earliest portions being 
 E. E., but the window-traceries have 
 been nearly all removed, and much 
 general damage has been done. 
 The tower is fine and massive, the 
 largest and most important in the 
 district. 
 
 Tenterden Church belonged to the 
 abbey of St. Augustine, Canterbury ; 
 and Kentish tradition asserts that 
 the abbot, during the building of the 
 steeple, employed for the work a 
 qiuintity of stone which had been 
 collected for the strengthening ot 
 the sea-wall of the Goodwins, then 
 a part of the mainland. The next 
 storm, in consequence, submerged all
 
 130 
 
 Route 7 . — Molvenden. — Newenden. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 that district, of wliicli the Goodwin 
 Sands are the existing remains, and 
 thus the steeple came to he regarded 
 as the cause of the quick. 'ands. It 
 need hardly be said that the whole 
 story is apocn^^hal, and tliat the 
 Goodwins were probably in existence 
 long before any tower overlooked 
 Eomney Marshes from the heights 
 of Tenterden. 
 
 Tenterden lies in the district called 
 " Tlic Seven Hundreds," which long 
 formed a part of the Crown posses- 
 sions, and were placed under the 
 jurisdiction of one court. Henry VI. 
 united Tenterden to the Cinque Port 
 of Eye, of which it is still a member. 
 Until recently it had a cori)oration, 
 and all other Cinque-Port j^rivi- 
 leges. As late as the middle of the 
 IGth cent, an estuary extended from 
 Eye as far as Small Hythe in Ten- 
 terden, where was a chapel dedi- 
 cated to St. John the Baptist, in the 
 chmx-hyard of which shij^wrecked 
 corpses were allowed to be buried. 
 In the neighbourhood is Herouden 
 Jlall (W. Whclan, Esq.). 
 
 liiih-enden, 2 m., has a Pcrp. ch. 
 of some interest. The font is Dec. 
 and good. At Forsham, in this 
 parish, are the foundations of a stone 
 building which has been variously 
 called a chapel and a " fort." There 
 is no trace of its history. 
 
 The Church of BenemJcn, 2 m., 
 has some Dec. portions, but has been 
 terribly spoilt. 
 
 About B m. S. of Eolvcnden is 
 Ntwenden. In the ch. is a remark- 
 able font, square, with carved sides, 
 at least early Norm. There is a 
 good Dec. screen. The first Englisli 
 establishment of Carmelite friars is 
 said to have been made at Losenham 
 in this parish, in 1241, but this lionour 
 is contested ])y the Carmelite Friary 
 at Aylesford (see Ete. 5), wliicli at 
 all events was a more important 
 one. No remains of tlie Losenham 
 Priory exist. This monasteiy is 
 thought by Camden to have been 
 
 formded on the site of the ancient 
 Anderida, which had hitlierto re- 
 mained desolate after its destruction 
 by the Saxons ; and at some distance 
 from Loseuham House is a spot 
 called "Castle ToU," where are traces 
 of large and deep entrenchments, en- 
 closing a lofty mound. These re- 
 mains, the age of which is imceiiain, 
 were at one time regarded as traces 
 of the ancient city. The claims of 
 Newenden, however, have been effec- 
 tually set aside by the Rev. A. Hussey 
 C Notes on- Kentish Clmrches'), and 
 recent researches have delinitely 
 fixed Anderida at Pereiiseij. (See 
 Sussex, post.) 
 
 The Chiu'ch of Sandhurst, beyond 
 Newenden, on the Sussex border, is 
 very early Dec, and worth a visit 
 in spite of much mutilation. The 
 western tower has a small aisle, N. 
 and S. (Comp. Scaford in Sussex.) 
 In the N. chancel are some remains 
 of stained glass, among which is the 
 figure of an armed knight, said to 
 be that of John deBetherinden, lord 
 of the manor temp. Edw. II. 
 
 The ridge of hills, at the end of 
 which Tenterden stands, ranges 
 through Cranbrook and Goudhurst 
 toward Tunbridge Wells, and com- 
 mands some veiy picturesque 
 scenery. The tourist may follow 
 the whole line with advantage, 
 making Cranhrooh his central rest- 
 ing-i)lace.] 
 
 [Between 4 and 5 m. N. of Head- 
 corn, on the edge of the greensand 
 or Quarry Hills, cuiderliers of the 
 chalk, is a group of churches, the 
 Suttons, Chart, Ulcombe, and Bough- 
 ton Malherbe, all within a short 
 distance of each other. A pleasant 
 excursion may be made from the 
 Headcorn station, along this line of 
 hills, from whence the views are 
 often very fine, returning to the 
 railway at Pluckley. This will oc- 
 cupy an entire day. Of the cliurches 
 the most interesting are East Sutton 
 and Bourjhlon. In the chancel of
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 7. — Sutton. — Bougliton. 
 
 131 
 
 Ead Sutton is the brass of Sir Ed- 
 ■\vard Filmer, his wife, and IS chil- 
 dren (1(529). His sou, the royahst, 
 author of some remarkable trea- 
 tises on ' the ' Natm-al Power of 
 Kings,' resided at East Sutton Place 
 (now belonging to his descendant. 
 Sir E. Filmer, Bart.) during the 
 civil wars, and bad his house plmi- 
 dered 10 times " for his loyalty." 
 The present house, with its pic- 
 tiu-esque gables, has been added to 
 at various times, bixt is mainly Eli- 
 zabethan. 
 
 Little Charlton (Mrs. Munro), in 
 this parish, is an Eliz. house of some 
 interest, which has been lately re- 
 .stored. 
 
 At Sutton Valence, on a hill ad- 
 joining the eh., are some scanty 
 remains of a castle, the histoiy of 
 which is unknown, but which was 
 probably the work of one of the 
 Valences, Earls of Pembroke, who 
 held the manor for some time. The 
 fragment of keep-wall which exists 
 dates probably from the end of the 
 13th cent. About 10 ft. from the 
 ground there are some remarkable 
 cells in the thickness of the wall, 
 about 8 ft. long, 6 ft. high, and 3 or 
 4 ft. wide. There is no external 
 opening, and their use seems quite 
 uncertain. 
 
 Chart is recorded in Domesday as 
 possessing a vineyard of " three 
 ai-})ents." It may be remaikcd that 
 the soil much resembles that of the 
 champagne districts about Epernav, 
 though a compotitiou is hardly to 
 be recommended. 
 
 The Church of Botighton Malherhe 
 is Dec, and contains the effigies of 
 a cross-legged knight and of a lady, 
 either belonging to the Malhcrbe 
 family, which possessed the manor 
 temp. Hen. III., or to tlie Peyfoi'crs 
 of Colbridge Castle, some traces of 
 wliich exist S. of the ch. Its ma- 
 terials are said to liave been used 
 for building Bougltton Place, long 
 the residence of tlie Wottons, and 
 
 afterwards the property of Sir Ho" 
 race Mann, the correspondent of 
 Walpole— called by Walton " an an- 
 cient and goodly structure." Hero 
 was born, in 15lJ6, Sir Henry Wotton, 
 of great reputation under James and 
 Charles I., but happiest in having 
 Isaac Walton for his biographer. 
 The place is now a farndioxise, but 
 retains " the advantage of its largo 
 prospect " noticed by SValton. Some 
 of the ancient rooms also remain, 
 and are worth a visit. The circular 
 roof of the dining-hall is much en- 
 riched. On one of the chimnej- 
 pieces is the date 1553. The house 
 was built l)y Sir Ed. Wotton, trea- 
 surer of Calais, temp. Hen. VIII., 
 and was visited by Q. Eliz. in 1573. 
 
 In this neighbom-hood is Chel- 
 ston (J. S. Douglas, Esq.).] 
 
 The valley overlooked by Sutton 
 Valence and by Bougliton Place is 
 traditionally said to have been an 
 arm of the sea; and it is asserted 
 that an anchor was discovered close 
 under tlie walls of Sutton Castlo 
 almost within living memory. The 
 sea cannot, however, have covered 
 this district within the historical 
 period. Through this valley tlio 
 line passes to 
 
 02 m. Plucldeij. 
 
 Here is an E. E. ch., with many 
 Perp. ^^'indows inserted. (One in tlio 
 Surreuden chancel is tilled with 
 early German glass of some interest.) 
 The ch. is said to have been built by 
 Rich, de Pluckley, temp. Hen. 11. 
 It stands high, and from the village 
 noble views are commanded over tho 
 Wealds of Kent and Sussex. Brass, 
 John Malmaines, 1440. 
 
 5 m. E. of the ch. is Surrcnden 
 Bering (Sir Edward Dering), com- 
 manding line views over the Weald 
 — " a very delicate and various pro- 
 spect," says Wcever. The Saxon 
 family of Dering, which still bears 
 as a crest the famous Horse of Hen- 
 gist, became possessed of this manoi-, 
 temp. Hen. VI., by a marriage with
 
 132 
 
 Route 7. — Bethersdea. — Ashford. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 its heiress. Tlie liouse contains an 
 important library, the foundations 
 of which were laid by Sir Edward 
 Dering, whose name figures largely 
 during the early part of the civil 
 war. The mansion itself is mainly 
 the work of his descendant, temp. 
 Geo. II. 
 
 [Little Chart, 1 ni., has a ch. with 
 portions from E. E. to late Pcip. 
 There are some fragments of stained 
 glass. In the N. aisle is the effigy 
 of an armed knight with collar of 
 SS.— one of thc^Darell famUy, to 
 whom this aisle belongs. It is en- 
 closed with a Perp. screen of wooil. 
 
 The towers of this ch., of Eger- 
 ton, and of Charing, are said to 
 have been built by Sir John Darell, 
 temp. Hen. VII. Adjoining is Calc 
 Hill (E. Darell, Esq.), the seat of 
 the Darells smce the reign of 
 Heniy IV. 
 
 The tower of Erjerton Church 
 (1^ m. W.) is marked as one of the 
 boundaries of the Weald. It stands 
 high on the Quarry Hills, at tlie 
 back of which rises the ch;dk, and 
 looks out far over the wooded dis- 
 trict to the S.] 
 
 \_Smurdeii Church (^ m. rt. of the 
 Pluckley station) has on either side 
 the chancel-arch some unusual tre- 
 foil-headed ornamentation, which 
 may be pai-t of a rcredos ; it de- 
 serves examination. 
 
 2 m. S. of Pluckley is Bdhersden, 
 famous for its quarries of marble, 
 filled with minute shells, and resem- 
 l)ling that of Petworth. Tins is 
 now little worked ; but its ancient 
 reputation is shown l)y the extensive 
 use of it in Canterbuiy and Eoclies- 
 ter cathedrals, and by numerous 
 monumental effigies sculptured in 
 it, and existing in dift'erent parts of 
 the county. The shells of which 
 this marble is almost entirely com- 
 posed, are freshwater species, and 
 consist (as at Petworth) of Paludiiu'e 
 and minute crustaceans of the genus 
 Cypris. In the prc-macadamite 
 
 period Bethersden enjoyed an evil 
 reputation for the depth and danger 
 of its roads, which here, as through- 
 out the Weald, were for the most 
 part narrow lanes between the woods, 
 all but impassable in winter. The 
 sward was cleared ofl' these " tm-u- 
 pike-roads," and, as soon as they 
 became tolerably dry in summer, 
 they were ploughed up, and the 
 surface soil " laid in a half-circle to 
 dry thoroughly." (Hasted). Great 
 ladies were thus oljliged to travel 
 to church in carriages drawn by 
 a team of oxen. brasses in the 
 ch. are, — W. Lovelace, citizen of 
 London, 1459 ; Thomas Lovelace, 
 1591.] 
 
 The low range of hills, 1., now ap- 
 proaches nearer the line, which 
 
 (j7 m. reaches Ashford. 
 
 1. is the branch line by Canter- 
 Inny to Piamsgate and Margate. 
 
 rt. the branch which, skirting 
 Eoinney Marsh, runs by Ajjpledore 
 and Eye to Hastings. 
 
 This is tlie principal "repairing"' 
 station on the Soutli-Eastern Eailway, 
 and the ground adjoining the line is 
 covered with extensive workshops. 
 
 xVshford, although of some size 
 (Pop. 5000 — Inn: the Saracen's 
 Head), and important as the junc- 
 tion of 3 great lines of railwaj', 
 contains nothing t(.) attract the 
 tourist except the Church, the fine 
 Perp. tower of which is conspicuous 
 on entering. This, which greatly 
 resembles (of course, in miniature) 
 the Bell Hariy Tower of Canterbury 
 Cathedral, was built by Sir John 
 Fogge, of Eejiton, temp. Edw. IV., 
 who also rebuilt, or restored, the en- 
 tire church, the greater part of which 
 is of this date. The tomb of Sir 
 John Fogge remains in the chancel, 
 but without its l)rasses. On the 
 pavement is the brass of Elizabeth 
 wife of David de Straljolgie, Earl of 
 Athole (i;]75j : she married secondly 
 John Malmayns of Kent : hence her 
 interment in this ch. Here are also
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 7. — Great Chart. — Aldington. 
 
 T Of 
 
 some elaborate IGth century monu- 
 raeut3 for the Smytlics of Wcsteu- 
 lianger, wbich deserve notice. 
 
 Ashford is indebted to Shakspeare 
 for the honour of figiiring as the 
 native place of the " headstrong 
 Kentish man, John Cade of Ashford." 
 (Henry VI., Part II.). Hall, wlio de- 
 .scribes him as of a " goodly stature 
 and pregnant wit," calls him only 
 " the lustv Kentish captain." 
 
 The Perp. Chmx-h of Great aiart 
 (2 m. W. of Asliford; and seen from 
 the railway before the town is 
 reached) contains the somewhat re- 
 markable Brass of William Sharpe 
 and 5 wives (1199). An old manor- 
 house, called Comhe Lodge, near the 
 ch., has portions of the 14th cent. 
 The N. side of tlie hall-windows are 
 of this date, though much concealed 
 by a lean-to roof.— /. U. P. Godinrj- 
 ton (Ecv. N. Toke) passed to the 
 Toke family by intermarriage, temp. 
 Hen. VII. The hoase has been 
 partly modernised, but contains some 
 good oak-carving and stained glass. 
 The chestnuts in the park sliouUl 
 be noticed. Nicholas Toke, of 
 Codington (d. 1G80), like his pre- 
 decessor in this parish, William 
 Sharjje, survived 5 wives, and, ac- 
 cording to the family tradition, 
 walked to London at the age of d'-l 
 to seek a sixth, but died before find- 
 ing her. This veteran's portrait re- 
 mains in the hall. 
 
 IHothfield, 2h m.W., contests witli 
 Heathfield, in Sussex, the honour of 
 having been the place at which 
 Jack Cade was taken by the Sheriff 
 Iden. " Jack Cade's Field " was long- 
 shown adjoining liothfield Place (Sir 
 II. Tufton). Sussex however seems 
 to liave the better claim. 
 
 In Willesborouijli Cliurch,2iXi.'E.,aK' 
 several stone seats resembling those 
 of Lcnham (Kent) and Corhampton 
 (Hants) : they are figured Gloss. 
 Arch. A tradition in the family of 
 Masters, long resident here, and one 
 of wliom was Queen Elizabeth's 
 physician, is said to have furnished 
 
 the plot for Otway's tragedy of ' The 
 Oii)lian.'] 
 
 Beyond Ashford the undulating 
 lines of the chalk hills soon become 
 visible, 1. ; but the railway does not 
 yet leave the greensand. 
 
 72 m. Siiieeth. 
 
 S. of the station is 3Lrs]iam ILdch 
 (Sir Edward KnatchbuU). The 
 house, of red brick, was rebuilt 
 during the last cent. 
 
 Smeeth Chm'cli contains Norm, 
 portions, especially a fine chancel 
 arch with enriched mouldings. Ad- 
 joming the line rt. was the site of 
 Scot's Hall, the ancient seat of 
 the Scots, a tiimily professing de- 
 scent frona William de Balliol, le 
 Scot. Sir Thomas Scot, the head 
 of this House, was appointed leader 
 of the Kentish forces at the time of 
 the Armada, and 1iy the help of the 
 beacons sent 4000 men to Dover tlie 
 day after receiving the Council's 
 letters. Reginakr Scot, author of 
 the ' Discovei-ie of Witchcraft ' (first 
 published in 1584), was of this fa- 
 mily. The original mansion has 
 entirely disappeared. 
 
 [The Church of Aldington (3 m. S.) 
 was that given liy Abp. Warhani to 
 Erasmus ua 1511. He resigned it 
 very soon aftei-wards, on condition 
 of receiving a pension of 20/. per 
 annum from its revenues. In the 
 ch. is a good Brass of John Weddeol 
 and his wife (1475). The tower is 
 late PeiiL, with a W. door much en- 
 riched, and deserving notice. Close 
 to the ch. is a large .stone house, 
 mucli altered and modernised, but 
 retaining 2 large 2-light windows of 
 the 14th cent. — Parker. There is 
 no trace here of the great DuteJi- 
 man, but he was still receiving his 
 pension when Richard Masters, his 
 successor, " a young man well skilled 
 in divinity," says Erasmus, in one of 
 his letters, " discovered " the famous 
 nun of Kent, afterwards the great 
 oracle of the party of Queen Cathe- 
 rine. From her first attacks of frenzy, 
 evidently unassumcd, she recovered 
 
 11 3
 
 134 
 
 Route 7. — Brdbourne. — Westenhanger. 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 after lyiuG; before the image of the 
 Virgin in the little chapel of Court of 
 Street, about 1 m. E. of Aldington 
 Church. After gaining some reputa- 
 tion as a prophetess, she was carried 
 to this chapel accompanied by a 
 procession of 2000 persons singing 
 psalms by the way— a solemn inaugu- 
 ration, which was patronised by 2 
 monks of Christ Church, who " took 
 her into training,'' and sent her to St. 
 Seijulchre's, Canterbury, where from 
 her cell she long influenced the 
 politics of Europe (see Froiale, i. 
 295-308). Some wall fragments still 
 mark the site of the chapel, wliich 
 stood below a ridge of wooded 
 ground that stretches E. as far as 
 Hythe, and overlooks the marshes. 
 Tiie sea view is very striking. 
 
 Court of Street is also known as 
 Belerica,a,w\ has traditions of ancient 
 greatness, which are probably due to 
 its vicinity to Lijnme. It stands on 
 the Eoman road wliich ran from 
 Lymne to Peveusey (Anderida), the 
 straight course of wliicli, along the 
 high ground, at once betrays its origin. 
 " Kemains of Roman settlements are 
 discovered all along, on both sides of 
 the road, wliich seems to have been 
 bordered with villas." — Wrigld."^ 
 
 Brahourne Churcli, among the low 
 hills (1 m. N. of Smeetli), has a re- 
 markable stone erection against the 
 S. wall of the chancel. It is about 
 the usual height of an altar, but is 
 much smaller. Cut on the stone on 
 the top is a cross enclosed in a 
 cii'cle, and 3 sides of a parallelo- 
 gram rt. and 1. At the back is a 
 low-arched canopy, under which is 
 a shield which has been painted. 
 It is apparently late Dec, and has 
 been called a credence-table ; more 
 probably it marks the place where the 
 heart of some important personage 
 was deposited, like the tabernacle at 
 Lcyliorne near Maidstone (,see lite. 
 5) : it is too liigh for a seat. In the ch. 
 is a mutilated stone efSgy of uncer- 
 tain date, and at the vicarage is pre- 
 .servcd the Brass of Sir William Scott 
 
 (1546). The armorial bearings on 
 the tomb of Sir Kobert Gower, also 
 in the ch., and the same coat of 
 Gower quartered with that of Scott, 
 on a later monument here, are iden- 
 tical with the bearings on the tomb 
 of Gower the iwet in St. Saviom-'s, 
 Southwark, who on the strength of 
 this evidence is claimed as a Kentish 
 worthy. 
 
 The churcliyard is famous for an 
 enormous yew-tree, which, according 
 to De CandoUe, is 3000 years old, 
 and therefore a contemporary of 
 Solomon's temple. The yews of 
 the Kentish churchyards are many 
 of them of extreme age and size ; 
 and it has been suggested that 
 they mark ancient religious rites 
 which were Cliristianised l)y the 
 building of the ch. 
 
 A remarkable conical hill in this 
 liarish, called " Collier's Kill," seen 
 rt. from the rail, has a large pond 
 on its top, which is said never to 
 become dry. 
 
 From the next station — • 
 
 75 lii., Westenhaiujer — a very inter- 
 esting excursion may be made, em- 
 bracing Hythe, Saltwood Castle, and 
 the Roman Castrum at Lymne. An 
 omnibus to and from Hythe ( 3J m.) 
 meets the trains, and at Hythe car- 
 riages may be procured for visiting 
 Lymne, 35 m. W. (If the tourist 
 walk to Hythe he should take Salt- 
 wood Castle in his way.) 
 
 Adjoining the station, rt., among 
 some fine old walnut-trees, are the 
 remains of the ancient mansion of 
 Westenhanger, a remarkable frag- 
 ment of the fortified manor of the 
 loth cent. It is surrounded by a 
 broad moat, enclosing a c[uadranglc, 
 the walls of which were defended 
 by 9 towers, alternately square and 
 round. Of these towers, 3 only re- 
 main ; and the interior buildings 
 have ail-but disapi^eared, a farm- 
 house having been built on jiart of 
 the site. The round dovecot tower 
 at the N.E. angle lias holes for 500 
 pigeons, and is curious. The cen-
 
 IvENT. 
 
 Eoute 7. — Hythe. 
 
 135 
 
 tral tower of the 3 remaining is 
 called Fair Eosamond's, from a 
 tradition tliat the " Rosa Mnndi " 
 had her bower here before her re- 
 moval to Woodstock. A long 
 gallery adjoining the tower, now 
 destroj'ed, was called her " 2)ri- 
 son." The single confirmation of 
 this tradition is the fact that the left 
 hand of a statue grasping a sceptre 
 — "a position peculiar to Hemy 
 II.," says Hasted, — but queiy? — was 
 long since found in the ruins. The 
 existing towers, however, are of later 
 date, and are probably the work of 
 Bertram de Criol, temp. Hen. III. 
 The manor subsequently passed into 
 the hands of the Poynings family, 
 by one of whom. Sir Edward Poyn- 
 ings, the chapel and other parts of 
 the mansion now destroved were 
 built, temp. Hen. VIII. ' It then 
 lapsed to the crown ; and Queen 
 Elizabeth rested during one of her 
 progresses " at lier own house at 
 Westenhanger." The name has 
 sometimes been written (Escing- 
 hanger, from the tradition, which 
 also belongs to Saltwood, of its 
 having been built by the CEscings, 
 the Saxon kings of Kent. In ac- 
 cordance with this, Eosamond"s 
 Tower is sometimes called the Tower 
 of Hengist. In the register of S. 
 Augustine's, Canterbury, the manor 
 is called " Le Hangre " {amjra. Sax., 
 a corner of land). It was subse- 
 quently divided into Osten and 
 Westen Hanger. 
 
 ^Hythe (the harhoiu; Sax.), Pop. 
 2500 (//»(, The Swan), one of the 
 chief Cinque Port.s, is, like the 
 others, a successor of one of the 
 Roman fortresses placed under tlie 
 control of the Count of the Saxon 
 shore. Portus Leman'iK, the ancient 
 castle and luirbour, is now more 
 than 3 m. distant, tlie sea having 
 gradually retired, first to West HijtJie, 
 and then to the present haven, 
 which is still silting up. 
 
 Hythe rejoiced in all tJie Cinque 
 Ports' privileges, and exhibits many 
 
 traces of ancient prosperity. Its 
 harboiu-, which lay " strayt for pas- 
 sage owt of BolcjTi" {Lchoiil), was 
 greatly narrowed in Elizaljeth'is 
 time, and soon became ail-but 
 closed. 
 
 'Jhe Church, dedicated to S. Leo- 
 nard, stands on high gromid com- 
 manthng a fine view of the sea 
 and Romney INlarsh, and well de- 
 serves a visit. The tower and much 
 of the nave were rebuilt toward 
 the middle of last century. Tim 
 E. E. triple chancel still remains. 
 The main chancel is raised by 8 
 steps above the nave, and has a 
 farther ascent of 3 to the altar. 
 The view from the W. end is thus 
 rendered very imiiressive. Round 
 the chancel is an arcade of Bethers- 
 den marble, which is also used for 
 the clustered shafts below. The 
 mouldings and enricliments should 
 be carefully noticed. There are 
 no monuments of special interest. 
 On the exterior of the N. transept 
 are traces of a Norm. door. 
 
 In the cryj,it under the central 
 chancel is an extraordinary collec- 
 tion of human skulls and bones, re- 
 minding the visitor of the Breton 
 ossuaries. Many of the skulls have 
 deep cuts in tliem, and are thought 
 to have become blanched by long 
 lying on the sea-shore. Their age 
 and date are altogether xmccrtain, 
 nor can it be fairly assumed that 
 they are the relies of any battle, in 
 spite of the local hjqjothesis, which 
 makes tliem the remains of Briton.s 
 and Saxons, or of Saxons and Danes. 
 A similar collection once existed at 
 Folkestone, and another at Upchurcli, 
 ou a creek opening to the Medway. 
 IMr. AVright has pointed out that no 
 tradition witli resjiiect to the origiii 
 of tlie collection of boues at Ilytlio 
 existed at the begimiing of the last 
 cent., and suggests that they may 
 have come from a Saxon or Romaii 
 cemetery, on which the original ch. 
 may have been constructed. 
 Like the other Cinque Ports, llylho
 
 13G 
 
 Route 7. — Salticood Castle. 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 liad 2 well-encTo'wcd liospitals, which 
 still exist— *S^<. Bartholomeiv'i),foiindcd 
 1330 hy Bp. Hamo of Eochestcr ; 
 and St. John's, of unknown but early 
 foundation. The existing buildings, 
 thougli not modern, arc of no great 
 interest. In the High Street bcjlow 
 St. John's hospital is an Elizabethan 
 timbered liouse wortli notice. 
 
 The quarries of greensand near 
 Hythc abomul in fossils. Fragments 
 of an enormous marine saiu-ian found 
 here some years since arc now in the 
 British Museum. 
 
 An excursion of some interest 
 may be made from Hythe to Romney, 
 and across the marshes to Appledore. 
 (See Sussex, post«) 
 
 Tlie Military Canal, which be- 
 gins close to Hytlie, and crosses 
 the marshes to Appledore, was com- 
 menced in 1805, when the Martello 
 towers along the coast were also 
 erected. The canal, in which there 
 is said to be good fishing, was in- 
 tended for the conveyance of troops 
 and stores, but was never completed. 
 Military stations were erected on it 
 at intervals, many 'of which are now 
 used by tlie Preventive Service. All 
 the purposes for whicli this canal 
 was designed are now obtained far 
 more eifectually l)ythe railway from 
 Ashford to Hastings. 
 
 Saltwood Castle, 1 m. N., is within 
 an easy Avalk of Hythc. There are 
 considerable remains, and the site is 
 sufficiently i)icturesque ; low, wooded 
 hills stretching away on citlier side, 
 and the sea opening at the end 
 of the valley in front. Within 
 the outer walls, forming a long 
 oval, was a broad deep moat, now 
 dry, but originally fed from the 
 Saltwood In-ook, which runs W. of 
 the Castle. Across the moat is the 
 imier f/atehouse. Hanked ))y 2 cir- 
 cular towers. The portcullis groove 
 is visible over the arch. The actual 
 gatehouse was the work of Abp. 
 Courtenny, temp. Rich. II. ; and 
 the shields above the entrance bear 
 on one side the archbishop's coat 
 
 alone, on the otlu-r that of Cour- 
 tenay impaled witli the see of Can- 
 tcrbmy. The circular flanking 
 towers arc perhaps a century earlier. 
 This tine gate-tower has not been 
 improved by its long use as a farm- 
 house. The roof should be climbed 
 for tlie sake of the view, which ex- 
 tends to the French coast, and i» 
 very striking. 
 
 The inner court was surrounded 
 by a lofty wall with turrets at inter- 
 vals ; and here were the principal 
 apartments, remains of which still 
 exist. The foimdations of the cha- 
 pel may l)e traced toward the centre 
 of the court ; the reimiins on the S. 
 side, usually jiointed out as belong- 
 ing to it, being probably tliose of a 
 hall or solar. Mucli of the castle 
 was overthrown in 1580 by an earth- 
 rpiake. 
 
 Saltwood was granted to the see 
 of Canterbury in i03(>, byHalfden, a 
 Danish jarl. The castle' was at first 
 held 1)y ditferent knights under the 
 archbishops, and its antiquity is in- 
 dicated by the tradition which 
 assigned its first building to Esc or 
 Oisc, the mythical ])rogeuitor of the 
 kings of Kent. Henry de Esses, 
 Constable of England, is said to 
 have rebuilt it, temp. Hen. I. His 
 lands were subsequently forfeited, 
 and the king seized and retained the 
 castle of Saltwood. It was claimed 
 by Becket as among the ancient 
 possessions of his see. Hence the 
 great enmity displayed towards him 
 ))y Eandulf de Broc, who then held it. 
 It was he who executed the orders for 
 the banishment of Becket's relatives 
 " with a barbarity beyond what was 
 required.'' Tlie De Brocs had the 
 charge of the pahice at Canterbury 
 during the archbishop's absence, 
 and one of them guided tlie knights 
 through its passages on the evening 
 of the murder. It was at Saltwood 
 that the 4 knights assembled after 
 landing separately at Dover and Win- 
 chelsea, and here during the niglit 
 (Dec. 28, 1170) the murder is said
 
 Kent, 
 
 Route 7. — Lymne. 
 
 137 
 
 to have been concerteJ, the candles 
 being extinguished, according to 
 popidar belief, since they feared to 
 see each other's faces. Hence they 
 rode to Canterbury along the Stone 
 Street, and here was their first rest- 
 ing-place after the murder. (Stank'tj, 
 H. M. 50.) King John restored the 
 castle to the archbishops, one of 
 whose residences it continued until 
 Cranmer exchanged it for other 
 lauds with the Crown. It has since 
 passed through various hands, and is 
 now the property uf Wm. Deedes, 
 Esq., of Sandling. 
 
 Saltwood Church, which has been 
 lately restored, is large and de- 
 serves a visit. The font is enclosed 
 in a case of carved oak. Brass, 
 Thomas Brokhill (1437 ). Adjoining 
 is SandUiuj Tarh (W. Deedes, Esq.). 
 
 The drive to Ijymne, 'A m., extends 
 along a tract of high ground over- 
 hanging the marshes. The road, how- 
 ever, is not picturesque until Lymne 
 itself is reached, when a very fine 
 view seaward, extending to Duuge- 
 ness, opens suddenly. The ancient 
 CastrHiii,knosvnasSlu(lfall Castle, by 
 which name the tourist must inquire 
 for it, occupies a wild and solitary 
 position on the edge of this broken 
 tract, at the point where it begins to 
 turn landward. The ruins, though 
 scarcely less interesting, are not so 
 intelligible at first sight as those of 
 Eichborough or Reculver. The area 
 (about 12 acres) is uneven and hiter- 
 sectedby hedges ; and the visitor who 
 desires to obtain a proper idea of the 
 .situation of the Castrum, and of its 
 relation to the haven, should walk 
 for some distance into the marshes, 
 and thence look back upon it. 
 
 The plan of the Castrum was more 
 irregular tliau that of either of those 
 just mentioned, owing no doubt to 
 the form of the ground. The E. 
 and W. sides were straight ; that 
 on the N. bent ui)wards in a semi- 
 circular form. On the S., where it 
 overlooks the harbour, there seems 
 to have been no wall, as was also 
 
 the case at Richliorough. Like the 
 others, it had circular towers at inter- 
 vals in its line of wall. Nearly in the 
 centre of the E. side was the Decu- 
 man gate (discovered during the re- 
 cent excavations), flanked by 2 circu- 
 lar towers. There were many small 
 postern entrances. The walls which 
 are now best seen are the N. and W., 
 large portions of which are yet 
 standing. At the S.W. corner is the 
 most perfect tower remaining (10 ft. 
 high, 45 ft. circumference). The 
 N. E. and W. sides have fallen out- 
 wards in masses so confused as to 
 render it difficult to trace their lines. 
 This was probably the result of 
 landslips, to which this whole dis- 
 trict is sidjject. Remark the trowel- 
 marks on the mortar, and some 
 circular perforations in a fragment 
 of wall on the N.E. side, which were 
 probably scafibld-holes, though it 
 has been suggested that they were 
 intended for conveying water. The 
 facing stones and tile bonchng courses 
 have sufiered greatly in these parts of 
 the wall ; but in tlie fomidations and 
 masses uncovered during the recent 
 excavations they remained perfect. 
 The stone used is tliat of the district, 
 and the central mass of the wall is 
 filled up with rmigh pieces. The 
 whole works were as carefully 
 finished as those of the most accu- 
 rately building railway company. 
 
 The walls of Lymne were probably 
 built at a late period of the Roman 
 occui:)ation, since mpaiy of the stones 
 appear to have belonged to earlier 
 buildings. In tlie Decuman gate 
 part of an altar was discovered, 
 bearing the inscription, " Prasfect. 
 Clas. Brit.;" thus confirming the ex- 
 istence of an early company of " Bri- 
 tish Marines " (Classiarii Britan- 
 nici), which had been already 
 guessed at by Mr. Roach Smitli, from 
 the letters CI. Br. on tiles found at 
 Dover. Some few ornaments and 
 weapons were also discovered, and 
 some coins, the greater numl)er be- 
 longing to the Constantiue family.
 
 138 
 
 Eoute 7. — Lymne. — Stone Street. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Portus Lcmanis is mentioned in 
 all the early Itineraries ; and at the 
 compilation of the Notitia was garri- 
 soned by the Prepositns Turnacensi- 
 um, a body of soldiers fi'om Touruay. 
 The river Lymne or Lemanis, tlie 
 Sax. Limene, has been identiiied 
 with the liother, wliioh now joins 
 the sea at Eye, liaving greatly 
 changed its aneient course. It seems 
 doubtful whether it ever flowed near 
 the Castrum ; but from the high 
 groimd above the ruins the bay or 
 estuary — the ancient Portus, now 
 dry land — is distinctly traceable as 
 far as Hythe. The sea-sand lies 
 almost on the surface, and affects the 
 colour of the soil throughout. 
 
 Stud/all, the present name of the 
 ruins, signifies a fallen place ; and is 
 found applied to ancient remains in 
 other counties. Besides the land- 
 slips, from which all this district has 
 sulfered, and which have aided in 
 ■changing the coiu'se of the rivers, 
 the castle has been injured by depre- 
 dators like Abp. Lanfranc, who used 
 much of the squared stone for build- 
 ing the church of Lymne. For all 
 that is known of Lynaie, and of these 
 ruins, see C. B. Smith's 'Antiquities 
 of Riclihorough, Eecidvcr, ami Li/inne: 
 Londoi), 1850.' 
 
 The Church of Lymne, on the liill 
 above the castle, still has Norm. 
 portions, and some of the stones 
 from the Roman fortress may be 
 traced in its walls. The castellated 
 Louse adjohiing, belonging to the 
 Archdeacon of Canterbury, but now 
 only a farm, formed part of a " cas- 
 telet embatayled," as Leland calls 
 it, and is said also to have been the 
 work of Lanfranc, though the exist- 
 ing remains are Edwardian. It was 
 probably a watch-tower, the Norm, 
 successor of the Castrum. The views 
 from this high ground are very fine. 
 4 m. E. "of the ch. is tihepu-aii 
 Cross, where the earliest general 
 courts of the Cinque Ports were 
 held in the open air. Here also 
 the "Limeuarchu," the warden of 
 
 the ports, took and received the 
 oaths on first enteiing on his oflSpe. 
 These courts were at an early jieriod 
 removed to Roinney, as the central 
 port. Shepway Cross gives name to 
 the whole lathe, a mark of its an- 
 cient importance.] 
 
 [The road which led from Canter- 
 bury to Portus Lemanis was the 
 Stone Street, whicli, however, has 
 not been traced in the immediate 
 neighboiu-hoodof the Castrum. From 
 the Wcstenhanrjer station it stretches 
 away in a straight line to the hills 
 above Canterbury, 16 m., and the 
 toiuist may still travel to Duro- 
 vernum by this old path of the 
 legions. It serves as a boundary 
 to the parishes on either side of it. 
 On this road, 3 m. from Westen- 
 hanger, and in what was once the 
 park of Jlount IMorris, is the Chm-cli 
 of Moidi's Horton, the tower of which 
 is of wood and curious. There are 
 some remains of stained glass. 2 m. 
 S.W., in a low situation among woods, 
 by tlie side of a stream, are the re- 
 mains of Horton I'riorij, now con- 
 verted into a farmhouse. A large 
 apartment, now a storeroom, is 
 panelled, and retains a IGtli cent, 
 ceiling, the compartments of which 
 are richly ornamented. Some frag- 
 ments without, and an arch in one 
 of the oftices, belong to the original 
 building and are Tr. Norm. The 
 whole deserves examination. The 
 Priory, founded early in the reign of 
 Henry II., by Eobert de Ver, was 
 Cluniac, and a cell of the famous 
 house of St. Pancras at Lewes. It 
 was made " indigena " by Edward 
 III. The manor of Monk's Horton 
 was attached to it ; but the Priory 
 was of no great value when resigned 
 to King Henrys commissioners. 
 From the Priory a field-path leads 
 to the Westenlianger Station. 
 
 Stoiding Church^'N. of Monk's Hor- 
 ton, which has been lately restored, 
 contains some good fragments of 
 Perp. glass. On the chalk hills, here 
 called"" the backbone of Kent," were
 
 Kej^t. 
 
 Route 7. — Folkestone. 
 
 139 
 
 discovered, not many years since, at 
 least 30 skeletons and many Roman- 
 Britisli remains, indicating cither a 
 cemetery or tlie locality of a battle.] 
 
 Leaving Westenlianger, the line 
 crosses handling Park (W. Deedes, 
 Esq.). The first glimjise of the sea 
 is gained after passing the Salticood 
 tuunel, cut through the greensaud. 
 The ruins of Saltwood Castle are 
 here visible at some distance rt., and 
 on one of the conical hills 1., wliich 
 are characteristic of this district (see 
 post), is seen Beachborouyh snmnier- 
 lioiise. The house (W. Broclcman, 
 Esq.) lies below. The Ford Valley 
 viaduct, of 19 arches, and 75S ft. long, 
 is then crossed, and the train reaches 
 
 82 m. Folkestone, the last watering- 
 place discovered on the S. coast, aud 
 in some respects the best (Pop. of 
 town and ixiri.^h 5000). Inns: The 
 Pavilion, at the end of tlie pier, 
 among the best in EngLuid, with a 
 table-d'hote twice a day, and a fixed 
 scale of prices himg in every room ; 
 — Eoyal George ; — York. 
 
 "Eoine," says Thomas Ingoldsby, 
 " stood on 7 hills ; Folkestone seems 
 to have been built on 70"— a site 
 wliich at least adds to tlie pictu- 
 resque qualities of the town, the 
 oldest part of which stands in a 
 narrow valley, formed by the ter- 
 mination of the great chalk and 
 sandstone ranges. The name (no 
 doidat Fulke's town) has been va- 
 riously interpreted Folks-stano (the 
 people's rock) — the rock of the 
 small people (/a/V/es), thinks Baxter 
 — or Flos-stane, a " flaw in the rock," 
 wliich, says Lambarde, " beginneth 
 here." The place, which was a 
 Saxon royal manor, and after the 
 Conquest a limb of the Dover 
 Cinque Port, was known for little 
 more than its Priory of St. EansM'ith, 
 luitil it grew into some reputation as 
 a fishing-town toward the end of tlie 
 last century. The real prosperity of 
 Folkestone, however, dates from'the 
 opening of the railway in 1844, the 
 consequent improvements of its 
 
 harbour, and the establishment of 
 packets to Boulogne. New streets 
 and villas immetliately sprang up in 
 plenty ; and the wide sea - view, 
 always alive with vessels, the plea- 
 sant neighbourhood, and the great 
 excellence of the air, combine to 
 make Folkestone an attractive 
 watering-place. To this the good 
 arrangements of the Pavilion have 
 not a little contributed. 
 
 The chief relic of ancient Folke- 
 stone is the Cliureh, which stands 
 very picturesquely on the W. cliflf. 
 The tower is placed between the 
 nave and chancel : this last is E. E., 
 with an unusually high-pitched roof, 
 and is very interesting. Great part 
 of the nave fell diuing a storm in 
 1705, and only a portion was rebuilt. 
 The cli. is in consequence sadly de- 
 faced ; a result to which the hideous 
 galleries within contribute all in 
 their power. The rope of the tolling 
 bell is brought into the ch. from the 
 tower through an octagonal opening, 
 ofPerp. date. (Comp. Glastonbury.) 
 The font is Perp. On the N. side 
 of the chancel is a much shattered 
 altar tomb, of late Dec. character 
 and good design, with an effig}'-, 
 assigned to one of the Fiennes 
 family, more than one of whom 
 were constables of Dover Castle. 
 In the S. chancel is a 17th cent, 
 monument, for John Herdson ; and 
 a Br,iss in the nave, which deserves 
 notice, commemorates Joan Harvey, 
 d. 1605, who among other virtues 
 is praised as " a charitable, quiet 
 neighbour," and who was the mother 
 of William Harvey, discoverer of the 
 circulation of the blood, born here, 
 April 1, 1578. Adjoinhig the N. 
 door is a vault, which once contained 
 a collection of skulls resembling 
 that at Hythe. In the Singing Gal- 
 lery is the stone lid of an early coffin 
 bearing a cross of unusual shape. 
 
 No part of the existing ch. can 
 belong to that built by Nigel do 
 Muneville, lord of Follvcstone, temp. 
 Stephen. This earlier building, like
 
 140 
 
 Route 7. — Folkestone. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 the present, on the site of whicli it 
 stood, served as the conventual 
 church for the Benedictine priory 
 of S. Eanswitli, -winch De Mune- 
 ville first established \s-ithin the 
 limits of the Castle of Folkestone, 
 and which aftei-wards, owing to tlie 
 wasting of the cliff, was removed to 
 a site adjoining the present ch. It 
 was attached as a cell to the Xornian 
 Abbey of Lonlay, in the diocese 
 of Seez. Some scanty remains, 
 thought to indicate the site of this 
 priory, exist in the vicarage garden ; 
 and much so-called Roman tile was 
 traceable among the ruins in Has- 
 ted's time. The l)ody of St. Eans- 
 witli, daughter of King Eadbald of 
 Kent, was removed from the castle 
 to the existing ch. ; and her stone 
 coffin is said to have been discovered 
 in the wall of the S. aisle, toward 
 the middle of the 17th cent. 
 
 The Castle of Folkestone, which 
 stood on the cliff, a short distance S. 
 of the ch., Is said to have been 
 founded by King Eadbald of Kent, 
 about G30, on the site of a Roman 
 watch-tower. A later Norman 
 fortress was built on the same site 
 by the great house of Avranches (de 
 Abrincis), who became lords of 
 Folkestone soon after the Conquest. 
 The present Bail (ballium) marks the 
 spot, and a length of ancient wall on 
 the E. side may perhaj^s be Norm. 
 The hail-pond, or reservoir, is sup- 
 plied with water from St. Eanswith's 
 spring, which she brought miracu- 
 lou.sly here " over the hils and rocks 
 to her oratorie at the seaside." 
 Within this castle was the nunnery 
 of St. Eanswith, destroyed during 
 the Danish ravages, and afterwards 
 replaced by the Benedictine priory, 
 which in its turn Avas removed near 
 the site of the present ch. St. Eans- 
 with, daughter of King Eadbald, who 
 is himself .said to have founded a ch. 
 ded. to St. Peter at Folkestone {Cap- 
 grave'), was one of the many canoTi- 
 ized Kentish princesses, and her 
 muniery, according to Tanner, v.-as 
 
 the finst female religious house esta- 
 blished in Saxon England. Her 
 sister ^dilberge was at the head 
 of another at Liminge (about 5 m. 
 N.), founded after her return from 
 Northumbria with Paulinus in 633. 
 
 Fragments of Saxon arms and pot- 
 terj', marking the site of a Saxon 
 cemetery, have been found here in 
 the Bail ; " one of many proofs that 
 the Christian missionaries established 
 their churches not unfrequently near 
 the places of burial of the imcon- 
 verted Saxons." — • Wright. There 
 may have been, as jMr. Wright sug- 
 gests, another reason for the esta- 
 blishment of Eadbald's church and 
 Eanswith's nmmery here; if, as 
 seems probable, there was a deserted 
 Roman settlement at Folkestone, its 
 ruined buildings furnished ready 
 materials for the mason. 
 
 The piers, enclosing the harbour 
 of Folkestone, were commenced in 
 1808, and the work was carried out 
 by Telford, the father of modem 
 engineering. The liarbour, however, 
 was not rendered available until the 
 opening of the railway in 1814, when 
 it was cleared from its accumulation 
 of shingle, and at once rose to im- 
 portance. 
 
 The views from the pier extend to 
 Shakespeare's Cliff E., and across 
 the marshes to the Fairlight Downs 
 above Hasting;;, W. Eastward 
 stretches away tlie French coast, the 
 flagstaff on the heights at Boulogne 
 being distinctly visible in clear 
 weather. A submarine chain of rocks, 
 only 14 ft. under low water, extends 
 from Folkestone quite acro.ss to Bou- 
 logne. 
 
 Along the .shore, between Folke- 
 stone and Hythe, the yellow horned 
 poppy {Glaucium luteum) grows in 
 abundance. Scraped upwards, says 
 ancient folklore, its root is a power- 
 fid emetic ; downwards, an excellent 
 cathartic. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Folkestone 
 abounds in interest for the geologist. 
 At Cojjf Point, beyond Eastweir I5ay.
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 7. — Sandgate. — Castle Hill. 
 
 141 
 
 •with its picturesque clift's, is a very 
 fine section of the gault, wliich lui- 
 (lerlies the chalk and upper green- 
 sand. Ammonites, belemnites, nau- 
 tili, and other characteristic fossils 
 of the gault, may here be procured 
 in plenty, the constant slipping of 
 the clitf affording the greatest facility 
 for its examination. " At Copt Point 
 the lower greensand rises from be- 
 neath the gault, and the line of junc- 
 tion of the two beds is well defined 
 on the face of the cliff thence to 
 Folkestone. A layer of coniferous 
 wood occiu's just above this luic of 
 junction." About 2 m. from the 
 town is a cludyheate spring, more 
 beneficial than agreeable. 
 
 Walks from Folkestone may be — 
 along the clifi" to Sandgate, 2 m., 
 commanding noble sea- views. Sand- 
 gate is a small bathing-jjlaceof some 
 reputation, with a very picturesque 
 country inland. Its Castle, on the 
 site of an earlier one, was one of 
 those built by Henry VIII. for the 
 defence of the coast, on the same 
 plan as its brothers at Deal and 
 Walmer. It was somewhat altered 
 in 180G, when the Martello towers 
 were constructed here. At the same 
 time an encampment was formed at 
 Shorncliff, between Sandgate and 
 Hythe, which soon became of im- 
 portance. Sir John Moore trained 
 many of the old PeuinsiUar regi- 
 ments here. Barracks were subse- 
 quently built, which, during the late 
 war, were appropriated to theForeign 
 Legion, reviewed on the Downs 
 above by Queen Victoria in the 
 autumn of 1855. 
 
 About 2 m. N. of Folkestone, and 
 seen 1. from the railway, is a re- 
 markable series of conical chalk- 
 hills, almost all of which are crowned 
 with ancient tumuli or with iutrcnch- 
 ments. The two largest are Sugar- 
 loaf Hill and Castle Hill. The first 
 is crested with a large low barrow, 
 occupying precisely the favourite 
 position for that of a Saxon hero. 
 A road has been cut into the side of 
 
 the hill, and winds roinid to the top. 
 At the foot is a spring called St. 
 Thomas's Well. Castle Hill, or Cjb- 
 sar's Camp, which "the country 
 l^cople " in Lambarde's time " as- 
 cribed to King Ethelbert, the first 
 godly king of this shyre," has on its 
 summit "three lines of intrench- 
 nieuts, of which the first encloses a 
 very considerable space of a long 
 oval form. In the S. end, seaward, 
 is a 2nd intrcuclinient, rising imme- 
 diately witliin tiie former, but leav- 
 ing a large open area within the 
 outer intrencluneut to the N. Within 
 the inner iutrenchment again, on the 
 highest jioint of the hill, is another 
 circular intrencluneut, closely re- 
 sembling (thougli not so large) that 
 which encloses the pliaros at Dover. 
 In fact, after examining Dover Castle 
 closely, its original intrenchments 
 seem to me to have borne so close a 
 resemblance to the so-called ' Cae- 
 sar's Camp ' on the liill I am de- 
 scribing, that I am inclined to believe 
 that this latter also was the site of 
 a Roman pharos, that served as a 
 guide to the sailors ai:)proacliing the 
 coast."— Wright. Roman tiles and 
 pottery have been fomid Avithin these 
 intrenchments, and " there are many 
 inequalities in the ground which 
 seem to indicate the sites of former 
 buildings." Roman biu-ial lu-ns have 
 been found in the field below. From 
 all these hills noble views are com- 
 manded. 
 
 Cherry Garden Valley, below Cae- 
 sar's Camp, has scattered among its 
 ashes some very ancient cherry and 
 apple trees, on the original planters 
 of which the visitor may speculate. 
 There is a small inn here, where re- 
 freshments may be procured. 
 
 Cherifon, 2 ra. W. of Folkestone, 
 has an E. E. ch. of some interest. 
 The sea-view from the churchyard is 
 very picturesque. 
 
 1^2 ni. bevond is Beachhorough 
 (W. Brockma'n, Esq.). On a hill ad- 
 joining the house is a summer-house 
 (wliich strangers are allowed to visit)
 
 142 
 
 Eoute 7. — Sicingfield. — Paddlesvcorth. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 commanding very fine and extensive 
 land and sea views. The retmu 
 may be made to embrace Newington, 
 where the ch. deserves a visit. The 
 font is cased in carved oak, like that 
 of Saltwood. Brasses : Thos. Chyl- 
 ton, 1501. John Clark, vicar, 15U1. 
 Eicliard Rigge and 3 wives, 1522. 
 From the Downs above Hythe, about 
 1 m. beyond Newington, there is a 
 magnificent view S., ranging over the 
 marshes to Hastings. 
 
 l^Longer excursions may be made, 
 to Hythe, 5 m., and thence to Salt- 
 wood and Lymne (see ante) ; to 
 Sa-iiuifiehl 3Iinnis, H m. N., -where 
 are the remains of a Preccptory of 
 the Knights of St. John ; and to St. 
 liadirjiDid s Abbey, 5 m. (see post). 
 
 The exciu-sion to Sicingfiekl will 
 take the tourist among the chalk- 
 hills N. of Folkestone, a picturesque 
 district abounding in small Norm, 
 churches. 
 
 The Preceptorij, a farm now called 
 St. John's, lies at the further end of 
 the Minnis, or Common (Celt. 31ynys 
 — a stony heath), and just beyond 
 the ch. The principal remains, at 
 the E. end of the present house, 
 are those of the chapel, and are Tr. 
 Norm, and E. E. At the E. end are 
 3 lancets with 3 circular openhigs in 
 the high-pitched gable above them. 
 Other portions of the original build- 
 ing remain worked into the house, 
 and shoidd be examined. A Com- 
 niandery of Kniglits Templars cer- 
 taiidy existed here early in the reign 
 of Henry II., though by whom it was 
 originally founded is unknown. On 
 the dissolution of the Order of the 
 Temple in 1312 their lands at Swing- 
 field were granted to the Knights of 
 St. John. Eich. de Swingfield, Bp. 
 of Hereford, a native of this place, 
 d. 1316. He is said to have trans- 
 planted a little colony of Swingfield 
 men to Hereford. 
 
 Either in going or returning the 
 churches oi'Acrise, Paddlesicorth, and 
 JIan-hlnrfe maj- be visited. 
 
 Acrise, 1 m. W. from Swingfitld, 
 
 has a rich Xorm. chancel arch. 
 Brass: Mary Haymen, 1001. Acrise 
 Court (T. Papillon, Esq.) is an early 
 brick mansion of some interest. 
 
 Paddlesicorth, on very high ground, 
 S., is also Norm. The chancel arch 
 has been removed. The doorways, 
 N. and S., shoidd be noticed, and 
 the colmnn which supports the 
 font. One of the latest chmx-h- 
 warden glorifications to be found in 
 England is suspended against the 
 N. wall of this ch., which is said to 
 be the smallest in the county. It 
 was anciently attached to tlie Church 
 of Lijiiiinge, the adjoining parish E., 
 where a nunnery was founded by 
 ^dilberge, daughter of King Etliel- 
 bert, and wife of Edwin of Northum- 
 bria, after her retm-n to Kent with 
 PaulinusinG33. She died at Lj-minge, 
 and was interred in the ch., which 
 must probably be regarded as the 
 primitive Cliristian church of all this 
 district. The nunnery disa]ipeared 
 at an earlj' period. Lyminge Church, 
 which is of various i^eriods, and may 
 perhaps repay examination, is dedi- 
 cated to St. Mary and St. ^cUlberge ; 
 and that of Paddlesworth to St. 
 Oswald of Northumbria, whose fate 
 and character must have had an 
 esj^ecial interest for .^ildilberge, the 
 probable foundress of the ch. Ly- 
 minge lies about J m. off the line of 
 the lloman Stone Stix-et. The eh. 
 and nunnery here are mentioned in 
 charters of "Wihtred of Kent (697) 
 and Cuthred of Kent (804). — KemlAe, 
 Cod. Dip. i. 
 
 Huiclcinge, 2 m. E. from Padilles- 
 worth, is not so interesting as the 
 other two, though parts are probably 
 Norni. These churchts, like most 
 others throughout the district, are 
 veiy small. The Peiqi. Chmx-h of 
 Elham, N.E. of Acrise, is an excep- 
 tion, as is that of AJkham, -where is 
 an interesting E. E. chancel with a 
 trefoil-headed arcade.] 
 
 Beyond Folkestone the line enters 
 on the chalk, and passes through a 
 series of timuels and deep cuttings.
 
 Kkxt, 
 
 Ro lite 7 . — Do ver — Situation . 
 
 143 
 
 between which are pleasant gUmpses 
 of the sea, rt., and of the picturesque 
 country, 1., to Dover. Tiie whole 
 course here is a series of en£;ineeriug 
 triumphs. The Abbot's Cliff Tunnel, 
 1940 yards (1^ m.), is the longest on 
 the line. It is ventilated by side- 
 galleries opening in tlie face of the 
 clitf. Between this and the long 
 tunnel under Shakespeare's Cliii" the 
 railway crosses the site of the Bound 
 Doivn Cliff's, a mass of chalk, 300 ft. 
 long, 375 ft. high, and 70 ft. in 
 average thickness, tlie whole of 
 which, during the construction of 
 the line, was removed by gunpowder, 
 fired by means of enormous galvanic 
 batteries, under the direction of 
 Gen. Pasley, E.E., Jan. 2U, 1843. 
 Long galleries, with shafts and cham- 
 bers, were constructed in the clitf; 
 18,500 lbs. (180 barrels) of powder 
 were placed in them, and, after the 
 discharge from the batteries, the 
 rock, without any violent explosion 
 — "a low munuur lasting liardly 
 more tlian half a second " — " glided 
 like a stream into the sea," distant 
 about 100 yds. from its base. About 
 18 acres were covered with the chalk 
 fragments, which were aftenvards 
 used in the formation of tlie sea- 
 wall. For a short notice of this most 
 successful operation, communicated 
 by Sir John Herschel, see the Athe- 
 nxum for 1843. 
 
 Passing the tunnel under Shake- 
 speare's Cliff (1331 yds. in length — 
 nearly 1 m.), the line sj)eedily reaches 
 ' 88 in. Dover (Pop. 20,000). Inns : 
 The Lord Warden, built by the 
 S. E. Kail. Compy., close to the pier, 
 and honoured by royal and imperial 
 visitors. The "Shiii, old, excellent, 
 and celebrated by siuidry tourists and 
 novel-writers. Dover Castle in Cla- 
 rence Place. Gun Hotel, Sliorn 
 Street, cheap and tolerably good. 
 
 Dover has been famous for its 
 " long l)ills" and extortions from the 
 days of Erasmus, who declui-es that 
 all the boatmen liere were tliieves, 
 to those of Don Juan, who 
 
 [ " here saw Albion's earliest, beauties. 
 
 Thy cUirs, dt'.ar Dover! harbour, and hotel; 
 Thy custom-house, with all its delicate duties ; 
 
 Thy waiters running mucks at every bell ; 
 Thy packets, all whose passengers are booties 
 
 To tliose who upon land or water dwell; 
 And last, not least, to strangers uninstructed. 
 Thy long, long bills, whence nothing is de- 
 
 _ ducted." 
 
 There is still great room for im- 
 provement in the matter of tlie lulls, 
 though the contrast between thorough 
 English comfort and the arrange- 
 ments of a continental hotel may dis- 
 jjose the returning traveller to look 
 on their high charges with somewhat 
 less displeasm-e, — 
 
 "And doubtless, as the air, though seldom 
 sunnj', 
 Is free, the respiration's worth the money." 
 
 The town of Dover is bustling and 
 fidl of movement. The shops are 
 good, and the ranges of new ter- 
 races, eastward, very pleasant. 
 
 No idea, however, of the beauty 
 or of the general situation of Dover 
 can be obtained until the visitor has 
 climbed either the Castle Hill or 
 the Western Heights. The town it- 
 self lies in the valley between them, 
 down which runs the little stream of 
 the Dour (Dwr, Brit., water), giving 
 its name to the Ivoman port and 
 town of Dubra', whence the modern 
 Dover. The walls and gates of this 
 Koman town have been traced. Lit- 
 tle is recorded of Dover during the 
 Saxon period, and the Northmen do 
 not seem to have trou]>led it. It was 
 burnt and suffered much at the 
 CoiKpiest, but afterwards soon rose 
 in importance. The castle was en- 
 larged and strengthened, and nu- 
 merous chm-ches and religious houses 
 were built in tlie town below. Dover 
 1)ecanie one of the "Keys of Eng- 
 land '■ (tlie lock and key — "clavis et 
 repagulum regni"— it is called by 
 Matt. Paris), and the strength of its 
 castle, which enabled Hubert de 
 Burgh to hold out during the siege 
 by Louis of France (1216), in all 
 probability saved England from a 
 French dynasty. On this occasion
 
 144 
 
 liOute 7. — Dover — History. 
 
 ?ect. T, 
 
 Philip Augustus swore by ' St. 
 James's arm " tliat iiotliiiig was done 
 till Dover was gaiued. After the 
 battle of Lewes, 12G4, when Ileiuy 
 III. was defeated by the barons, his 
 son Prince Edward and other pri- 
 soners were confined in this castle. 
 Edward was freed the next year, and 
 afterwards besieged the castle, setting 
 at liberty his friends, who, in the 
 mean time, had risen on the ground 
 and taken the keep. 
 
 During the civil war Dover 
 Castle fell by stratagem into the 
 hands of the Parliamentarians, who 
 retained it in spite of many Cavalier 
 assaults. On the night of Aug. 1, 
 1G4'2, a merchant of Dover named 
 Drake, an eager Parliamentarian, 
 scaled the cliff on the side next tjie 
 sea with a few followers, and, before 
 the garrison were on the alert to 
 repel them, threw open the gates. 
 The king's party tried in vain to re- 
 cover it. 
 
 Numberless are the great person- 
 ages who at different times have 
 landed or sailed from here. From 
 Dover Eichard I. embarked for Pa- 
 lestine in 1189. In 1382 Anne of 
 Bohemia, the bride of Richard II., 
 arrived here. The sea "fell into 
 fmy " immediately after her land- 
 ing, and the ship she had left was 
 dashed to pieces. The Emperor Si- 
 gismuud, in 1-llG, landed at Dover 
 to mediate between Henry V. and 
 France. Here in 1520 Hemy VIII. 
 embarked in his "grete shipiie, ' the 
 Harry Grace-de-Dieu, for the Field 
 of the Cloth of Gold ; and here, two 
 years later, the Emperor Charles V. 
 landed, and was received on the 
 beach by Wolsey. King Henry him- 
 self arrived the next day, and the 
 two monarchs rode hence in state to 
 Canterbury. HenriettaMaria landed 
 here as a bride in 1625, and in 1G42 
 again sailed from Dover on her de- 
 partin-e for France, having taken 
 leave of Charles I. in the castle. 
 Charles II. iirst touched English 
 groimd at Dover on his restoration, 
 
 May 27, IGGO, and was received by 
 General >\Iouk under a canopy 
 erected on the beach, the mayor at 
 the same time presenting his Majesty 
 with a " large Bible with gold clasj^s 
 embossed." From the castle clitis 
 and from the beach "an innumerable 
 company of gazers " beheld the fleet 
 of William of Orange, as, Nov. H, 
 1G88, it passed the straits, "sjaread- 
 ing to within a league of Dover on 
 the N. and of Calais on the S., so 
 that the men of war on the extreme 
 1. and rt. saluted both fortresses at 
 once. The spectacle, says Rapin, 
 was the most magniflcent and afi'ect- 
 ing ever seen hy Innnan eves." {Muc- 
 aukuj, ii. 482.) Louis XVIIL, after 
 his English exile, left Dover for 
 France, April 23, 1814 ; and the 
 allied sovereigns landed at Dover, 
 from Boulogne, on the Gth of Jun(^ 
 in the same year. Prince Albert 
 arrived here on the occasion of his 
 marriage ; and not the least remark- 
 able landing that has taken place 
 at Dover was that of the Emperor 
 and Empress of France in April, 
 1855. 
 
 The first great point of interest in 
 Dover is the Castle, rising grandly 
 on its clitf opposite the station. It 
 is at all times accessible to visitors, 
 and persons are always at hand to 
 act as conductors, if desired. The 
 vaidts and underground works alone 
 are not shown without an express 
 order. The castle has been entirely 
 remodelled since 1780, and the plans 
 of Roman and Saxon fortifications, 
 so often published, are all from 
 Lyon's 'Hist, of Dover,' 1813, who 
 says they were made before the 
 alterations. They are, however, of 
 little service, and all that can be 
 gathered from them is the fact of the 
 gradual extension of the defences, 
 till the entire hill was surrounded 
 by Norman walls and watch-towers. 
 In spite of much alteration, it is 
 still a very perfect type of a Norman 
 castle, with keep, inner and outer 
 courts or bailevs, gate, and watch-
 
 IvENT. 
 
 Route 7. — Dover — Castle. 
 
 145 
 
 towers. The morit important por- 
 tions still existinff will be best de- 
 scribed in regular order. 
 
 The size of the Eonian Castellum 
 is uncertain ; it ])robubly took tlie 
 place of an earlier Briti^ih strongliold 
 to which Pennant thought " the 
 vast foss in the remotest part of 
 the precinct " might have belonged. 
 This circular entrenchment, how- 
 ever, is now considered a part of tlie 
 Eoman work ; and within it stood 
 the famous lighthouse which guided 
 tlie Imperial galleys into tlie port 
 below, or lent its tlickcring glare to 
 tlie British oyster - boat, as, laden 
 with the spoils of the Eutupine 
 coast, it passed through the straits 
 toward the opposite harboin- of 
 Bovdogne. 
 
 This Flutros, attached to the ruined 
 ch., iS. of the keep, is the onlj^ frag- 
 ment of Roman masonry remaining. 
 The wall, like tliat of its sister 
 light at Gessoriacum (Boulogne), is 
 composed of a casing of flints and 
 tufa, with bonding-courses of large 
 Roman tiles, filled up in the inte- 
 rior witli smaller stones and mortar. 
 Owing, perhaps, to some difficulty in 
 procuring tiles, Folkestone rock cut 
 tile-shape is occasionally used in 
 the bonding-coiu-ses. The Pharos 
 is octagonal without, and squared 
 within, each side being about 14 ft. 
 The windows are said to have been 
 altered liyBp. Gundulf in the course 
 of his Norman additions. The arms 
 on the N. side are those of Lord 
 Grey of Codnor, constable about 
 1259. The Pharos is now used as 
 ii government storehouse, and the 
 )niblie an" tlicrefore not achnitted to 
 the interior. 
 
 The ruined Church adjoining, of 
 which the origin is traditionally 
 given to the shado\vy king Lucius, 
 is probably Saxon in parts, the re- 
 mainder Norman. "The ]:)ortal and 
 window-arches seem copied from 
 those in Ihe Roman tower. The 
 most ancient portions may be of the 
 middle of the 7th cent., "the proba- 
 
 ble founder being the Kentish king 
 Eadbald, d. 640." (Bhxnm.) The 
 walls are interspersed with Roman 
 bricks and tiles. This ch., cer- 
 tainly one of the oldest Cliristian 
 ediiices in tlie countj', deserves as 
 much attention as ca7i be given to 
 it; but like the pharos, to which it 
 leads, admission within its walls is 
 not readily granted. 
 
 The walls of the later fortress were 
 thickly planted with watch-towers, 
 for the most part mere shells, open 
 to the court within. The greater part 
 have been destroyed. Of those re- 
 maining, and of the larger gate- 
 towers, the most remarkable, besides 
 the keep, are Constable's, Peverell's, 
 the Arntuches, and the Cotton. 
 
 CoHs/((/>/e"sTower, sometimes called 
 Fiennes,iti that by which the outer 
 balliinn of the castle is entered, after 
 ascending the steep flight of steps 
 from the town. It is said to have 
 been the work of John de Fiennes, 
 the first constable after the Con- 
 iiuest. No traces of Norman work 
 however remain. The unaltered por- 
 tions arc Edwardian ; V)nt sashed 
 windows and modern chimneys are 
 not improvements outwardly, how- 
 ever agreeable they may be to the 
 Lieut. -Governor, whose residence is 
 in this tower. 
 
 Beyond Constable's Tower (rt. on 
 entering) is Feverell's Tower and 
 gate. The upper part has been re- 
 mov('d. "V^^lat remains is perhaps 
 temp. Edw. I. It had drawbridge 
 and moat, now filled up, and guarded 
 the entrance to the keei>court or 
 inner ballivnn. 
 
 In an angle of the outer wall, at 
 some distance 1. from Constalile's 
 Tower, is the Avranclies or de Alirin- 
 r/'s Tower, the probable work of 
 William de Abrineis(temp. Stephen), 
 and " one of the most perfect and 
 curious Norman edifices existing." 
 The foundations are below the 
 bottom of the deep ditch on the 
 N.E. side. The wall. 10 ft. tliick, is 
 raised to a level with the upper
 
 UG 
 
 Route 7. — Dover — Castle 
 
 Sect, I. 
 
 balliiim. There is a gallery in the 
 thickness of the wall, with a plat- 
 form for archers behind apertures, 
 on all five sides of the tower. In the 
 tower is an arched room or recess, 
 open in front, in which weapons 
 were deposited. Above this chamber 
 is a platform into which the gallery 
 in the wall opened. This tower com- 
 manded an important angle of the 
 fortifications, and was therefore con- 
 structed with unusual care. 
 
 The Colton Tower and Gate exist 
 in a ruined condition at the angle 
 W. of the Pharos. The shield 
 of arms in front is that of Lord 
 Burghurst, who commanded this 
 tower temp. Edw. III., and who 
 probably then restored it. 
 
 The Jveep remains. The founda- 
 tion walls, 24 ft. thick, are said to 
 have been laid by Henry of lilois 
 (afterwards Henry II.), grandson of 
 Henry I., on arriving from Normandy 
 for the relief of Wallingford Castle, 
 about 1153. Anotlier tradition (for 
 it is nothing more) asserts the arclii- 
 tect to have been Bp. Gundulf of 
 Eochester, the builder of IJoehester 
 Castle and of tlie White Tower of 
 London. The Dover keep has three 
 stories. The first had originally no 
 entrance except from the story above. 
 In it is a hall-, 50 ft. square, divided 
 by 3 massive arches and pillars. Nar- 
 row flights of steps ascend to the loop- 
 holes, which are at the top of the 
 walls. The second story was entered 
 by a flight of steps on the S.E. side, 
 which were altered when the modern 
 entrance was made below. Here is 
 the Chapel, with Norman arches and 
 mouldings, and two large apartments, 
 each 50 ft. by 25 ft. There are 
 galleries in the walls. In the third 
 story are the state apartments : tlie 
 stairs leading to them were strongly 
 guarded with gates and a portcullis, 
 and at the sides are concealed 
 galleries for archers. At the top, on 
 the left of the entrance to the apart- 
 ments, is a well descending tlu-ough 
 the thickness of the wall, A plummet 
 
 gives a depth of 293 ft., but great 
 part of the well was filled witli rul^bish 
 bj' French prisoners confined here 
 during Blarlborough's campaigns. 
 This well was long called " Ctesar's," 
 and is no doubt the same whicli 
 Harold, on his Norman visit, iinder- 
 took to deliver to the Conqueror, 
 to2:ctlier with the castle itself. 
 
 The view from the N. turret, IGS ft. 
 above the sea-level, is magnificent. 
 The line of clifls between the two 
 Forelands, and the French coast 
 from Boidogne to Gravelines, are 
 traceable in clear weather. The 
 distance to the tower of Notre Dame, 
 Calais, is 2G m., to Dunkirk 4(J, 
 Those " aditus insulfc mirificis moli- 
 bvis muniti," which well-nigh baffled 
 Cresar, of which Cicero writes to 
 Atticus, and which suggested the 
 masses of rock that accompany the 
 figure of Britannia on Roman coins 
 (first occurring on a large brass of 
 Hadrian), are nowhere better seen 
 or more impressive. 
 
 Arthur's Hull, on the N.E. side of 
 the keep-court, is now converted into 
 mess-rooms and a range of barracks. 
 In the Lesser Hall, or Guinerer's 
 Chamher, on the opposite side of the 
 court, now destroj'ed, certain stores 
 of salt and wine, "which," says Kil- 
 burne, "by long lying had become 
 as thick as treacle," • used to be 
 pointed out as " Julius Ca3sar's," to 
 whom tradition assigns the building 
 of the castle, equally with the other 
 " Towers of Julius," on the lianks of 
 the Thames. Here also was shown 
 a brass horn called Cicsar's, and said 
 to have been used " for calling his 
 workmen together." The stores, it 
 has been suggested, may have been 
 part of tliose collected here by 
 Heniy YIII. before his French ex- 
 pedition. 
 
 Near the edge of the castle cliff 
 is a brass camion, cast at Utrecht 
 in 1514, and afterwards presented to 
 Queen Elizabeth by the States of 
 Holland. It rejoices in the name of 
 " Queen Elizabeth's Pocket Pistol,"
 
 Kent. 
 
 Houte 7. — Dover — Churches. 
 
 U7 
 
 is 24 ft. long, and is covered with 
 devices representing tlie contrasts of 
 peace and war, which no people were 
 better able to appreciate than the 
 givers. It is further graced by a 
 Dutch verse, to this efl:Vet,— 
 
 "O'er hill and dale I throw my ball, 
 'Breaker,' my uame, of mound and wall." 
 
 A popular rhyme which runs — • 
 
 " Load me well and keep me clean, 
 And I '11 carry a ball to Calais Green " — 
 
 is supposed to refer to this gun, 
 which is now much honeycombed 
 and useless. Anotlicr famous piece 
 of ordnance was long sho\vn here 
 called "Basilisco," and said to have 
 been given by Charles V. to Henry 
 VIII. 
 
 From this spot (Doc. 1784) Jef- 
 fries and Blanchard "set sail" in 
 their balloon, and after a i^erilous 
 crossing alighted safely on the oppo- 
 site side of the straits, in the Foret 
 des Felmores, near Guines. 
 
 The visitor should make a pomt 
 of getting a view of the castle from 
 the sea, when he will ujiderstand 
 how it came to inijiress the minds of 
 strangers arriving in England so 
 forcibly as to give rise to the belief 
 that it was built by evil spirits. " A 
 cacodajmonibus extructa," says the 
 Bohemian, Leo von Eotzmital, in 
 1446, "adeo valida et munita ut in 
 nullo Cliristianorum provincia par 
 ei reperiri queat." 
 
 The excavations in the chalk clifl' 
 on which the castle stands were 
 made* toward the end of the last 
 century, when the fortifications were 
 completed nearly as tliey exist at 
 jDresent. Casemates for lodging 2000 
 men, and magazines for provisions 
 and powder, are formed in tlie clift", 
 which is honeycombed in all direc- 
 tions with long galleries and cliam- 
 bers. Air is supplied through brick 
 funnels. This part of the castle is 
 not shown without an order from 
 the governor. 
 
 We may now descend into the 
 town. Of the Clmrches, only two 
 
 remain in use. St. Mary's, in Cannon 
 Street, has recently been almost re- 
 built. The Norman (':*) tower is re- 
 markable. Until the late alterations 
 the mayor and corporation occupied 
 here the ancient position of the 
 bishop with his jiresbyters, and had 
 seats at the E. end, hehiud the altar. 
 They are now happily compelled to 
 take a lower place. In this ch. are 
 monumental inscriptions for Foote, 
 the dramatist, and Churchill, neither 
 of Avliom were buried here. Foote 
 died at Dover, in tlie Ship Hotel, 
 Oct. 21, 1777, and was interred in 
 the cloisters of Westminster Abbej'. 
 The inscription for Churchill cele- 
 brates him as " the great high-priest 
 of all tlie nine." 
 
 St. James s, in St. James's Street, 
 has a Norm, doorway. The Chancery 
 Court for the Cinque Ports was 
 formerly held in the S. chancel. It   
 seems to have been even more vexa- 
 tious in its proceedings than its 
 great prototype. Here is a monu- 
 ment for Sir Nathanael Wraxall, tlie 
 well-known diarist ; and here also 
 are buried tlie father and grand- 
 father (Simon and Philip Yorlce) of 
 Lord Chancellor Hardwicke, who 
 was born at Dover in IG'JO. The 
 house occupied by his parents is still 
 pointed out in Snargate Street (on 
 the N. side, about half-way down). 
 
 Tlicre are fragments of St. Mar- 
 fht's-le-Graud behind the market- 
 place. In its churchyard was buried 
 Churchill the poet, who died at 
 B(nLlogne,17<j4. His tomb still exists,, 
 with the edifying motto from liis 
 own ' Candidate,' " Life to the last 
 enjoyed, here Churchill lies." It 
 was here, at the " grave of one who 
 Ijlazed the Comet of a season," that 
 Bvron wrote his well-known lines, 
 recording 
 
 " the old sexton's natural homily. 
 In which there was Obscurity and Fame, 
 The Gloiy and the Nothing of a Name." 
 
 "The grave of Churchill," says Sir 
 Walter Scott, " might have called 
 from Lord Byron a deeper com-
 
 148 
 
 Route 7. — Dover — St. Martins P. 
 
 rionj. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 luemoration ; for, although they 
 generally diflfered ia character and 
 genius, there was a resemblance be- 
 tween their history and character. . . . 
 Both these poets held themselves 
 above the opinion of the world, and 
 both were followed by the f\ime and 
 popularity which they seemed to 
 despise. . . . Both carried their hatred 
 of hyjjocrisy beyond the verge of 
 prudence, and indulged their vein 
 of satire to the borders of licentious- 
 ness. Both died in the flower of 
 their age in a foreign land." 
 
 The modern chapels are Trinity 
 and Christ Church, the last good 
 E. E. It is nearly opposite the 
 ancient Priory of St. Martins, of 
 which the story is as follows. The 
 College of St. Martin for 22 secrdav 
 canons, which had been at first esta- 
 blished in the castle, was removed 
 into the town by Withred King of 
 Kent (700). They were exempt from 
 episcopal jurisdiction, and subject 
 only to the Pope and King of 
 England. They were moreover 
 wealthy ; and an extreme jealousy 
 early arose between them and the 
 archbishops, wlio were anxious to 
 bring them imder the control of the 
 great Canterbury Priory, and who at 
 length succeeded in obtaining a grant 
 from the king of the whole lands and 
 revenues of the canons. Abp. Cor- 
 boil immediately built (1132) the 
 priory of whicli the ruins now exist, 
 and placed in it certain canons from 
 Merton. The old canons, thus ex- 
 pelled, complained to the king ; Init 
 after a series of ecclesiastical squal)- 
 bles the archbishops had their way, 
 and the priory became Benedictine, 
 like that at Canterlmry. 
 
 The site, with the greater part of 
 the lands, still continues attached to 
 the see of Canterbury. 
 
 The refectory and part of the dormi- 
 tory remain, and are used as farm- 
 buildings. The refectory, now a barn, 
 is nearly perfect, and is part of the 
 original foundation. It has 8 win- 
 dows and (j buttresses N. and 7 S. 
 
 Its extreme dimensions arc 107 ft. 
 by 34, the walls being 3 ft. 6 in. thick. 
 The original entrance was on the 
 S. side, but is now blocked up with- 
 out. An E. E. entrance, also blocked 
 up, is visible on the same side. The 
 interior is very striking, and shoidd 
 not be left unseen. The wall is 
 blank to the height of 12 ft. G in., 
 above which an arcade is carried 
 quite round the apartment. The 2 
 arches next the E. end are pierced 
 for windows to light the high table ; 
 after them every alternate arch is 
 pierced, producing good effects of 
 light and shade. On the wall at the 
 E. end, under the arcade, are faint 
 traces of a mural painting of the 
 Last Supper ; some of the nimbi 
 surrounding the heads may still be 
 made out. Of the mof, the central 
 bay is perhaps 15th cent, work ; the 
 rest is modern. The work through- 
 out is very plain, but massive. 
 
 The principal gateway is Dec. and 
 very picturesque. 
 
 Foundations of the large and mag- 
 nificent ch. were laid open in 1844, 
 when the ground was levelled : some 
 portions of the plan may still be 
 traced. Under an apse, on the S. 
 side of the chancel, were found 24 
 silver coins of Henry II. 
 
 There was a considerable library 
 in the priory. Of the priors, one, 
 Richard, succeeded Becket as arch- 
 l)ishop, and was the " Canterbury " 
 in whose lap "York" sat down at 
 Westminster dming the famous fight 
 for precedence. Suffragan bishops 
 of Dover existed from 1537 to 1597. 
 
 Tlie Maison Dien, now the Town 
 Hall andSessionsHouse, was founded 
 by Hubert de Burgh as a resting- 
 place for strangers and pilgrims, who 
 had hitherto been entertained by 
 the canons of St. Martin's. Much 
 land was attached to it. In this 
 meditcval " Lord Warden " the Kings 
 of England used to lodge in their 
 way to and from the continent. 
 
 Tlie present Town Hall is a part 
 of the ch. attached to tlio Maison
 
 Kent. 
 
 Iloute 7. — Dover — Tlarlour 
 
 149 
 
 Dieii, wliich was built by Henry III. 
 after the foundation had been re- 
 signed to him by De Burgh. Henry 
 was himself present at its dedication 
 in 1227. Examples of religious edi- 
 fices thus converted to secular piu-- 
 poses are rare iu England, though 
 common enough on tiie other side 
 of the Channel. In this hall are pic- 
 tures of sundry Dover worthies, and 
 of persons otherwise connected with 
 the town — Elizalieth, Anne, Charles 
 II., William III., Wellington. 
 
 The Old Court Hall, in the market- 
 place (date 1607), has some cm-ious 
 grotesques on the pillars supporting 
 it. Beyond is the Museum (built 
 1848). It is open to the public, and 
 contains a good collection of natural 
 kistory ; some local antiquities — 
 Roman tiles, urns, &e. ; Saxon 
 brooches and bracelets ; bronze 
 weapons, and seals connected \vith 
 Dover. There is also a stone, with 
 mason's mark, said to have come 
 from a church of the Templars, 
 wMch, as tradition assert.s, once 
 existed on the western heights, and 
 in which, it is added, took place 
 the famous scene of King John's re- 
 signation of his crown to Pandulph. 
 But although the manor in which 
 the heights are situated certainly 
 belonged at one time to the Tem- 
 plars, there is no authoritj' wliatever 
 for the existence of a ch. here ; and 
 King John's resignation occurred 
 either at Swingtield or at Temple 
 Ewell, about 3 m. from Dover, on 
 the Canterbury road (see Rte. 11). 
 
 These Heifjhts and Batteries, be- 
 yond the town, W., are more ele- 
 vated than the castle ; and the whole 
 position was formed during the years 
 preceding the peace of 1814, when 
 more than once the camps of France 
 and England were in sight of each 
 other on the opposite shores. 
 Gravel walks are carried all along 
 the heights, and tlie view from them 
 across the town to tlu: 
 castle is very striking. 
 
 The barracks here have a com 
 \^K.e,nt & Sussex.'] 
 
 grand old 
 
 munication with the town by a mili- 
 tary shaft entering from Snargate 
 Street. " Three spiral flights, of 
 140 steps each, wind round a large 
 shaft or tower, open at the top to 
 admit light, and .59 more reach the 
 barrack-yard. " 
 
 The tunnel of the E.Kent railway 
 (not yet completed"!, 680 yds. long, 
 passes under these heiglits tti reach 
 the Dover terminus. 
 
 A deep valley separates these 
 heights from Ilau or Shalcspeare's 
 Cliff, 
 
 " whose high and bending head 
 Looks fearfully on the confined deep." 
 
 It is now 350 ft. above the sea- 
 level ; but, although ti;iUs are of 
 freqixent occurrence, and the height 
 has perhaps diminished, it is only 
 possible to repeat Wordsworth's 
 wonder (' Memoirs,' vol. ii.) that 
 any one shoidd have imagined the 
 famous description in ' King Lear ' 
 to be, or to have been intended as, 
 an accurate cojjy from nature. At 
 what time the name of " Shak- 
 speare's Cliff " began to be applied 
 to this jiarticular headland does not ' 
 appear : the wild larkspur grows in 
 the crevices, and samphire may yet 
 be gathered there ; but there are no 
 choughs, and the crows are much 
 larger than beetles. Still, 
 
 " the murmuring surge 
 That on tlie unnumber'd idle pebbles 
 chafes " 
 
 has an eclio of a grand music, and 
 the turf cresting the white cliff is 
 scarcely less haunted ground than 
 the glades of Windsor or the green 
 banks of Avon. 
 
 The Harbour of Dover formerly 
 extended some way up the Charlton 
 valley, and has gradually retreated, 
 owing to dtHiris brought down from 
 the hills, and the effects of a shift- 
 ing bar of shingle, which frequently 
 closed it altogether. Dover is the 
 only one of the ancient Cinque 
 Ports which still exists as a har- 
 bour ; but it would long since liave 
 shared the fate of its brethren, had
 
 150 
 
 Boute 7. — Dover — Harhour of Refuge, 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 it not becu for the large and im- 
 portant works wliicli have been 
 undertaken here at tlifferent times. 
 Henry VIII. commenced an enor- 
 mous pier, stretching 20 rods further 
 into the sea than the present pier- 
 heads, which remained vmfinislied at 
 his death, and soon became quite 
 ruinous. The loss of Calais greatly 
 affected Dover, and the town was re- 
 duced to considerable distress, when 
 Raleigh reported that an improved 
 harbour there would be of great ser- 
 vice, since " no i^romontory, town, or 
 haven in Europe was so Avell situ- 
 ated for annoying the enemy, pro- 
 tecting the commerce, or seniling 
 and receiving despatches from the 
 Continent." Fresh works were ac- 
 cordingly commenced by Elizaljeth, 
 and continued by James I. ; and by 
 dint of these and later operations 
 the harbour has been kept open. 
 The outer harbour, and the Fent or 
 eastern basin, were much enlarged 
 by the Harbour Commissioners in 
 18-14, and a quay-wall has since been 
 carried round the latter. The sea- 
 walls lately constructed in the bay 
 form convenient promenades, while 
 they also perform tlieir more im- 
 portant duty of stopping the en- 
 croachments of the cliannel. 
 
 The Harhour of liefnge (Messrs. 
 Walker and Bm-ges, engineers), 
 which was commenced in 18-17, has 
 been of infinite service. The pas- 
 sage of lieacli from the westward, in 
 front of tlie harbour's month, which 
 was formerly a cause of great trouble 
 and expense, now no longer takes 
 place, since it is effectually stopped 
 by the mass of masonry which every 
 year is extending itself further and 
 further into the sea. About 600 
 acres of the bay will be enclosed, in 
 a large portion of which tliere will 
 be a depth of water suihcient for 
 men-of-war of the largest size, with 
 ani])le si^ace nearer the shore for 
 Bmaller vessels. The double object 
 of a convenient low-water landing 
 for steamboats, and a i^ort of refuge 
 
 for wind-bound vessels, will there- 
 fore be attained. 
 
 The large concrete blocks used 
 for blocking up the granite facing 
 of the walls are worthy of notice ; 
 they were made on the spot by 
 steam-machinery, specially designed 
 for the purpose. The diving opera- 
 tions also are carried on on a larger 
 scale than has hitherto been at- 
 tempted ; the solid mass of masonry, 
 upwards of 80 ft. in width at the 
 base, being raised from 45 ft. Ijclow 
 low water as far as the surface, by 
 means of diving-bells, and thence 
 by the ordinary method. The land- 
 ing jetties formed on both sides of 
 the pier supply what Dover had long 
 rerpiired — a deep-water laiiding- 
 Ijlace for vessels at all times of the 
 tide. 
 
 Dover is the chief pilot-station of 
 the Cinque Ports, having attached 
 to it 50 pilots employed in the 
 Channel service. Government steam- 
 ers cross from here daily to Calais 
 and Ostend. 
 
 The first submarine telegraph 
 ever undertaken was laid down be- 
 tween Dover and Cape Grisnez, in 
 August, 1850. This cable, however, 
 broke in consequence of fretting on 
 a ridge of rocks under the Cape ; 
 and a second was connected with 
 the French coast at Sangatte, about 
 2 m. nearer Calais. Another cable 
 crosses from here to Ostend. The 
 wire is insidated by means of gutta- 
 percha. No other substance woidd 
 have answered the pm'pose, so that 
 it may be said " that the instanta- 
 neous interchange of thought be- 
 tween distant nations awaited the 
 discovery of a vegetable production 
 in the forests of the Eastern Archi- 
 pelago " {Sir F. Head). 
 
 There can ))e little doubt tliat the 
 countries now united by tliese sub- 
 marine cables were at one time con- 
 nected by an isthmus which was 
 gradually broken through by the 
 action of the sea. "The greatest 
 depth of the straits between Dover
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 7. — The Cinque Ports. 
 
 151 
 
 and Calais is 29 fathoms, wliicli only 
 exceeds by 1 fathom the greatest 
 depth of tlie Mississippi at New 
 Orleans." {LyeU.) Desmarest, wlio 
 gained a prize essay on this subject 
 in 1753, attributed the rupture of 
 the ancient isthmus to the i^repou- 
 derating violence of the current from 
 tlie north. 
 
 The bathing at Dover is said to 
 be dangerous, owing to the sudden 
 shelving of the beach, which is so 
 great as to prevent the use of horses 
 for the machines. Accidents have 
 more than once occmred. There 
 are fixed baths on the j^arade. 
 
 Excursions may be made from 
 Dover to St. Radigund's or Bradsole 
 Abbey, 3 m., founded 1101 by Jeffrey 
 and Thomas, Earls of Pertli, for Pre- 
 monstratensian monies. Tlie prin- 
 cipal gateway, part of which may 
 belong to the original foundation, 
 remains nearly peribct, though much 
 covered with ivy. The chapel and 
 some domestic buildings, now con- 
 verted into a farmliouse, also remain. 
 Of this last " the facings of the wall 
 are ciuious from the variations of 
 pattern in tlie flint and Caen stone " 
 {Eev. A. Ilusseij). The ground be- 
 neath the ruins is pierced with long 
 subterranean passages, which have 
 not been thoroughly explored. The 
 abbey stantls on high ground, and 
 commands a good view of the beau- 
 tiful valley of Poulton. Adjoining 
 is a large pond, in Kent called a 
 "sole" — a true Saxon word — from 
 which the abbey was named. 
 
 2 m. on the I^ondon road is River, 
 a picturesque and old-fashioned vil- 
 lage, worth a visit. In the neigh- 
 bourhood is Kearsucy Abbey (J. M. 
 Fector, Esq.). For other interesting 
 places within reach of Dover, see 
 the present Route {ante) and Etes. 
 10 and 11. 
 
 A short notice of the Cinque 
 Ports, of which Dover is the only 
 one that remains in active service, 
 may perhaps be best inserted here. 
 
 Dining the later Roman period the 
 Count of the Saxon Shore had 
 under his especial control 9 gi-eat 
 fortresses, which guarded the prin- 
 cipal landing-places on the coast 
 from Yarmouth to Portsmouth. The 
 more recent Cinque Ports are (ex- 
 cept Romney) nearly or altogether 
 identical with 4 of these castles- 
 Dover (Dubrai), Hythe (Portus Le- 
 manis — Lynine), Romney, Hastings 
 — which may be allowed to repre- 
 sent Anderida (Pevensey — a branch 
 of the Hastings port) — and Sand- 
 wich (Rutupiie). Yarmouth (Garia- 
 110 nam) was also to some extent 
 under the jurisdiction of the Cinrpie 
 Ports. The Cinque Ports are first 
 directly so called soon after the 
 Conquest, when John de Fiemies ap- 
 pears as the first warden ; but it is 
 probable that they existed as a 
 pecidiar community throughout the 
 Saxon i^eriod, and that the liOrd 
 Warden is the natural, if not the 
 direct, representative of the Roman 
 " Comes." 
 
 Almost all the coast from Thanet 
 to Hastings is (or was) under the 
 control of the Cinque Ports, through 
 the minor ports or limbs, which pro- 
 bably purchased a share in the fran- 
 chises by a fine to the head port, 
 glad, in its turn, to have sharers in 
 the burden of providing ships. 57 
 was the number of ships to be 
 furnished by all the ports and limbs 
 whenever the king should require 
 them; and in war-time the king 
 supplied a certain numljer of soldiers 
 for each ship. 
 
 This Cinque Ports fleet was the 
 germ of the Briti.sh navy. With the 
 burden of providing it their great 
 privileges were bound up. They 
 had the entire control of their own 
 towns, all the freemen of wliich 
 were called and ranked as barons. 
 These could only be tried by their 
 peers, before the lord warden, or 
 before the king in person. Thej' 
 were tlischarged from all military 
 duties in the field, and could not be 
 
 I 2
 
 152 
 
 Route 8. — Asliford to Canterhimj. 
 
 Sect. I, 
 
 removed beyond their own jurisdic- 
 tion but for the assirstance of each 
 other. The main court, called the 
 " Court of Brotherhood," for up- 
 liolding their privileges and regu- 
 lating the affairs of each port, was 
 held twice a-year — first at Shijiway 
 Cross, nearHythe, and then at liom- 
 ney, as the central port. 7 persons 
 attended from each head port. The 
 barons of the Cinque Ports were 
 rejiresented in parliament from a 
 very early period, and at every coro- 
 nation they bore the canopy over 
 the king and queen, wearing a pecu- 
 liar dress. Tliere were 11 barons 
 attached to each canopj-, which was 
 Ijorne by silver .staves, having small 
 l)ells of silver attached to them. 
 One of the canopies was usually 
 offered after the coronation at the 
 siirine of St. Thomas of Canterl)nry. 
 Tlio bearers dined in Westminster 
 Hall, at the right hand of the king. 
 
 At what time these privileges 
 commenced is altogether uncertain. 
 The charter of Edward I., long pre- 
 served at Eomney, only confirms 
 tliem. Tlie ancient Custumals of 
 the towns deserve careful attention, 
 and are in some respects peculiar. 
 The mayors are elected annually. 
 If the person elected refused the 
 oath — " to be true to the king, to 
 maintain the liberties of the town, 
 and to do justice to the poor" — at 
 Dover and Eye his house was pulletl 
 down, — at Eomney, Winehelsea, and 
 Hastings, he was turned out with 
 \\\-.i family, and the doors were sealed 
 Vip. A thief taken " back berende " 
 in Dover or Folkestone was thrown 
 from the top of a precipice ; at 
 Sandwich he was smothered in tlie 
 marslies. In all the towns a tub of 
 water was to be j)laced at every 
 liouse-door as a precaution against 
 fire. 
 
 Copies of these Custumals were 
 kept by tlie lord warden, to whom 
 lay an a])peal from judgment in 
 the mayors' courts. As warden lie 
 is chancellor and admiral of tlie 
 
 coasts wliere the ports lie. Tlie 
 warden is also constable of Dover 
 Castle — a superior title, and an office 
 which, although now always imited 
 with the wardenshiji, was not so for- 
 merly. 
 
 The functions of the lord warden, 
 and the special privileges of the 
 Cinque Ports, have been greatly 
 abridged, especially since the " ]Mu- 
 nicipal Eeform Act." The warden 
 still presides, however, at the courts 
 of " Brotherhood " and " Giiestling," 
 now on\y held previous to a corona- 
 tion ; and as admiral of the coast 
 his jurisdiction continues in full 
 force. In this capacity he is the 
 supreme judge of the Court of 
 Lode - Manage, in which pilots are 
 licensed, and complaints heard of 
 their incapacity or ill-conduct. 
 
 The present .state of tlie Cinque 
 Ports, once the great harbours of 
 England, is remarkable. Eomney, 
 Hythe, and Sandwich are no longer 
 ports at all. Hastings little better. 
 Dovei- alone remains of the larger 
 ports. The lesser, or " limbs," have 
 been somewhat more fortiuiate. 
 Margate, Eamsgate, Deal, Eye, and 
 Shoreliam are still of some import- 
 ance. Winehelsea and Pevensey, 
 however, read even a more striking 
 lesson of change than the main har- 
 bours on which they depended. 
 
 EOUTE 8. 
 
 ASHFORD TO CANTERBURY. 
 
 From Asliford to Canterbury the 
 railway, following the line of an an- 
 cient road which fell into theWatling 
 Street at Canterbury, passes througli 
 the valley of the Stour, bounded on 
 either side by low wooded hills, and 
 about Chilham oti'ering scenery of
 
 Kent. 
 
 much quiet beauty. From the sta- 
 tion at 
 
 4 m. Wye, the low tower of the 
 ch. is seen, rt., cresting the rising 
 ground. Tlie ch. here was rebuilt 
 by Abp. Ivempc, who was born 
 at OUantigh in this parish, temp. 
 Hen. yi. It had a central tower, 
 which fell in 1685, destroying great 
 part of the building. The present 
 tower and chancel date from 1706. 
 The Perp. nave is Kempe's. 
 
 AVye was one of the royal manors 
 granted by the Conqueror to Battle 
 Abbey ; and its manor-house, of which 
 no trace remains, was of sufficient 
 size and importance to receive the 
 visits of many sovereigns. The 
 manor has jmisdiction over 22 hun- 
 cbeds, a proof of its ancient conse- 
 quence. 
 
 The College, at the end of the vil- 
 lage adjoining the churchyard, was 
 founded by Abp. Kenipe in 1147, 
 who, having rebuilt the ch., made 
 it collegiate, amply endowing it, 
 and ijroviding at the same time for 
 the education of the parish. The 
 present college was the residence of 
 his provost and chaplains. At the 
 dissolution the site passed into the 
 hands of the Crown, and subse- 
 quently through those of various 
 proprietors, until Sir George Wheler, 
 in 1724, gave it by will as a residence 
 for the master of the grammar-school, 
 and for the use of Lady Joanna 
 ThornhiU's charity. 
 
 The college formed a quadrangle, 
 the lower story of stone, the upper 
 timbered. A large hall occupied 
 one side of the square. This is now 
 the school-room, and the present 
 kitchen was the ancient common 
 room. Some fragments of ancient 
 stained glass remain in the windows 
 of the S. side. 
 
 Abj). Kempe's school-room ad- 
 joins the clmrchyard, and may be 
 the original one. The teaching here 
 was to be gratis, " except the usual 
 oft'erings of cocks and jience at the 
 Feast of S. Nicholas." 
 
 lioute 8. — Vy^ye. — EastweJl. 
 
 lo3 
 
 Lady Joanna ThornhiU's school, 
 founded 1708, provides for the edu- 
 cation of the poorest children, and 
 is amply endowed. 
 
 In the neighbomhood are Spring 
 
 Grove ( Goldsniidt, Esq.), and 
 
 OlJurdUjh (J. Sawbridge, Esq.) 
 
 At Withersdtn, S. of the village, 
 is Ht. Eustace's Well, so named from 
 Eustace, abbot of Flai, who, at the 
 beginning of the 13th cent., preached 
 throughout England the better ob- 
 servance of the Sunday. After his 
 sermon at Wye, according to Matt. 
 Paris, he blessed this fountain, which 
 from that time cmed all diseases. 
 
 There is atuleralde Jy(/i in the vil- 
 lage, and the neighbouring country 
 is pleasant. The Stour here is fa- 
 mous for its pike. 
 
 The views from Wye Doicns, part 
 of the chain of chalk hills extending 
 S.E. as far as Folkestone, will repay 
 the labour of climbing them. On 
 the side of the hill above Tremwortli 
 an extensive Roman burial-ground 
 was discovered in 170o, and was 
 afterwards carefully explored by the 
 Rev. Bryan Faussett, in whose col- 
 lection (now at Liverpool) much of 
 the glass and pottery found here is 
 still preserved. 
 
 [W. of Wye an interesting excur- 
 sion jiiay be made by Boughton 
 Aluph and Eastwell, to Charing 
 (8 m.). 
 
 The large Church of Boughton 
 Aluph, 2^ m., so named from Alulph 
 de Boughton, lord of the manor 
 tenq). John, will amply repay a visit : 
 the tower is central. From Bough- 
 ton the lower road should be taken 
 to Eastwell Oiurch, in which is bu- 
 ried the " last of the Plantagenets." 
 Richard, a natm-al son of Richard 
 III., is said to have tied here im- 
 mediately after the battle of Bos- 
 worth, and to have supported him- 
 self as a mason, until discovered by 
 Sir Thomas Moyle, who allowed him 
 to build a small house adjoining 
 Eastwell Place, in which he lived 
 and died ( 1550). The parish register
 
 154 
 
 Route 8. — Eastwdl. — Westwell. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 of burial contains the following 
 entry, copied, of course, from an 
 earlier book : — 
 
 " V. Eychard Plantagenet, Desember 22nd, 
 iuSO." 
 
 The letter V mailing persons of 
 noble birth tlu-oughout the register. 
 A tomb in the chancel, without in- 
 scription and deprived of its brasses, 
 is said to belong to this offset of 
 the White Eose (but the Earl of 
 Winchelsea told Dr. Brett in 1720 
 that it was unknown whether he 
 was buried in the eh. or chyard. — 
 See Dr. Brett's letter in Pech s Desi- 
 derata Cttriosa). The house in which 
 Plantagenet lived was destroyed to- 
 ward the end of the 17th cent. ; a 
 modern building marks tlie site. 
 Near it is a spring still called 
 " Plantagenefs Well." 
 
 The stately tomb of Sir Moyle 
 Finch, and his wife the Countess of 
 Winchelsea (1614), should also be 
 noticed. 
 
 EashrellParh (E. of Winchelsea), 
 which the road now skirts for some 
 distance, contains some fine park sce- 
 nery (Defoe, in his 'Journey througli 
 England,' declares it was the finest 
 park he had ever seen), especially 
 at the N.W. corner, where tlie high 
 ground commands the sea on either 
 side — Sheeruess and the Nore, N., 
 across the picturesque heights of 
 Challock Wood, and the old forest 
 of the Blean ; and, S., the Channel 
 beyond Eomney IMarsh. The view 
 is a very remarkable one, and the 
 tourist will do well not to miss it. 
 The hill which commands it has its 
 sides covered with wood, through 
 which 8 avenues are cut, called 
 " The Star Walks." The venison 
 fed in this park is considered the 
 finest in Kent. (For an edifying 
 story of the misfortunes which re- 
 sulted from the felling of " a most 
 curious grove of oaks " here, by one 
 of the Earls of Winchelsea, sec Nor- 
 irond, TIandhoul: for Surrey, itc.) 
 
 The House, which is modern, and 
 
 has no special interest, replaced that 
 built by Sir Thomas Moyle, temp. 
 Hen. VIII., from whom the estate 
 passed to the Finches, Earls of 
 Winchelsea. It was from here that 
 Lord Winchelsea was summoned 
 by James II. on his detention at 
 Feversham. 
 
 Close imder the park, N., is the 
 church of Challock. 
 
 The manor of Westwell, \\ m., 
 belonged to Ch, Ch. Canterbuiy. 
 The ch. is partly E. E., and contains 
 some stained glass of very high in- 
 terest. Tlie E. end is liglited by 3 
 independent lancets, the centre one 
 of wliicli contains the remains of a 
 remarkably fine Jesse. Two ovals 
 remain; the figure of the Virgin 
 occupying the lower, and that of the 
 Father Almiglity the upper. These 
 have been carefully re-leaded hy 
 Mr. Willement. One of the side 
 lancets exhibits the remains of a 
 beautiful quarry i^attern with a rich 
 border; the otlier, now filled with 
 modern white glass, probably re- 
 sembled it. — C. W. All this glass is 
 E. E. Eipleij Court here was the 
 residence of Alexander Iden, the 
 capturer of Jack Cade, but its an- 
 cient state and " quiet walks " have 
 been exchanged for the bustle of a 
 farmyard. 
 
 In the year 1.574 a remarkable 
 case of apparent possession occurred 
 at Westwell, and is duly recorded by 
 Reginald Scot {Disc, of Witchcraft, 
 vii. ch. 1). Mildred Norrington, ser- 
 vant to William Sponde, " was pos- 
 sessed with Satan in the night of 
 October 13th." The ministers of 
 Westwell and Kenington were called 
 on to attend the case, and a con- 
 ference took place between them 
 and tlie evil spirit, in the course of 
 which the latter accused "old Alice 
 of Westwell-street " of having killed 
 tliree persons by the aid of the same 
 devil wliieh had taken possession 
 of Mildred Norrington. "Satan's 
 voice," say the ministers, "did difler 
 much from the maid's voice, and all
 
 Kej^t. 
 
 lioute 8. — Charing. — Chilham. 
 
 155 
 
 that be spake was in Lis own name." 
 Tlie " ventriloqua " of Westwell, as 
 Master Scot calls her, was liow- 
 cver siieedily discovered, and the 
 "cosenage confessed." "Hags and 
 witches," he continues, " will in time 
 to come be as much derided as Eobin 
 Goodfellow and Hobgoblin be now," 
 — a prophecy which has yet to be ful- 
 filled, so far as the remoter districts 
 of Kent are concerned. 
 
 From Westwell the road passes 
 along the chalk downs to Charing, 
 3 m. 
 
 The chief point of interest here is 
 the Archbis]i,o2j's Palace, the ruins of 
 which are considerable. The great 
 gateway, which remains, opened into 
 a coiu-t, partly surrounded by offices: 
 fronting it was the entrance to the 
 palace itself, some part of which has 
 been iitted up as a dwelling-house, 
 and at the back are remains of the 
 chapel. The greater part of the 
 ruins are early Dec. (but the work 
 is very poor), and few traces remain 
 of Abp. Morton's work, who is said 
 to have much enlarged the palace, 
 temp. Hen. VII. 
 
 Charing was one of the earliest 
 possessions of the church of Canter- 
 bury, and the archbishops had a re- 
 sidence here long before the Con- 
 quest. It was much favoured by 
 later prelates, and both Henry VII. 
 and Henry VIII. were frequently 
 lodged here in their progresses. The 
 latter rested at Charing on his wav 
 to the " Field of the Cloth of Gold ;" 
 his other halts, after leaving his own 
 palace at Greenwich, being Otford, 
 Leeds, and Canterburj^ all at that 
 time archicpiscoijal palaces. The 
 king did not forget their splendour, 
 and Charing, among others, was 
 subsequently resigned to him by 
 Cranmer. 
 
 The Church, which has some few 
 E. E. and Peip. portions, is princi- 
 pally later than 1.590, in which year 
 the greater part of it was accidentally 
 burnt. It long contained a remark- 
 able relic — the block on which John 
 
 the Baptist was beheaded, brought 
 into England by Eichard I. 
 
 Charing stands on a line of ancient 
 road, perhaps British, which joined 
 that running through the valley of 
 Ashford to Canterbury. In many 
 parts of its course, as is the caso 
 about 5 m. N. of Charing, it is 
 known as " The Pilgrims' Way," 
 and is traditionally said to be that 
 followed by the i:iilgriras to Canter- 
 biu-y coming from Southampton and 
 the western counties. Traces of it are 
 found throughout Kent, Suri-ey, and 
 Hampshire, " marked often by long- 
 lines of Kentish yews, usually creep- 
 ing half way up the hills, immedi- 
 ately above the line of cultivation, 
 and under the highest crest, passing 
 here and there a solitar)' chapel or 
 friendly monastery, but avoiding for 
 the most part the towns and villages 
 and the regular roads, probably for 
 the same reason as, in the days of 
 Shamgar the son of Anatli, 'the 
 highwaj^s were tmoceupied, and 
 the travellers walked through by- 
 ways.' " (Stanley, H. Mem. ; and the 
 line is carefully traced in a note 
 appended.)] 
 
 Beyond Wye the scenery on either 
 side of the railway increases in 
 beauty ; 1. is the richly wooded park 
 of Godmersham (Edward Knight, 
 Esq.) The eh. is seen from the rail 
 (see posf). 
 
 9 m. Chilham . rt. and immediately 
 above the station is Julaber's Grave, 
 a lofty mound, maikecl by a clump 
 of fir-trees. It is an artificial bar- 
 row, and earlier antiquaries sug- 
 gested that ics name was a coiTuiitiou 
 of "Julius Laberius," 1. e. of the 
 name of Laberius, the tribune of 
 Julius Cffisar, killed in tlie second 
 expedition, dming the battle at the 
 river, the scene of which was conse- 
 quently fixed at Chilham, and the 
 moimd called the grave of Laberius. 
 By others it has been pronounced 
 the grave of Cilia, the Saxon founder 
 of Chilham. After more than one 
 examination, however, no trace of
 
 150 
 
 Route 8. — Chilham 
 
 Sect. L 
 
 sepiilclutil deposit has been dis- 
 covered. "Julaber" seems identical 
 with " Jidiau's Bower," itself per- 
 haps a corruption, brit found in con- 
 neetion with ancient eartliworks and 
 " labyrintlis " at Applel'v in Lincoln- 
 shli-e, and elsewhere. (See Stuheley, 
 Itin., p. 91.) Julian's Bowers are 
 sometimes called "Troy Town;' and 
 games were held at them, perliaps 
 connected with tlie midsuiumer festi- 
 val. Similar earthworks are known as 
 " Gallantry," or " Gallant's Bower," 
 in some of the western counties. The 
 view of the valley of Ashford from 
 this mound is very fine. 
 
 5 m. from the station, 1., are 
 tlie village and castle of Chilham. 
 (J. B. "Wildman, Esq.). There is a 
 tolerable coimtry inn here (the 
 Woolpack) which the tourist may 
 make his centre for a day or two 
 with advantage. The Castle, of 
 which the remains arc shown on 
 application, was surrounded by a 
 deep fosse, enclosing about 8 acres. 
 At the N. W. angle stands the 
 ancient keep, octagonal, and 3 stories 
 in height. This is late Norm. Other 
 portions of the castle seem to have 
 been used in the construction of 
 the modern houses which have suc- 
 cessively occupied its site. 
 
 The castle of Chilham replaced a 
 Eoman Castrum, which here over- 
 looked the valley of the Stour. 
 Many Komau remains have been 
 discovered here ; and, in building 
 the present house, ancient founda- 
 tions were found at a great depth, 
 together with Eoman vessels, of dif- 
 ferent sorts, in metal and pottery. 
 This first castle, according to general 
 tradition, was the residence of Lu- 
 cius, the Brito-Roman king, who is 
 said to have become a Cliristian 
 convert, a.d. 189, and to wliom the 
 earliest foimdation of Canterbury ca- 
 thedral is attributed. (For a care- 
 ful discussion of this question see 
 a paper byMr. Hallam in the'Arcli- 
 ajologia.' After his conversion Lu- 
 cius is said to have become a hermit 
 
 at Coire in the Grisons, wliere his 
 relics are still sliown in the cathe- 
 dral.) Chilham sixbsequently passed 
 into the hands of the Saxon kings 
 of Kent, by whom the castle was 
 much strengthened. After the Con- 
 quest it was granted to a Norman 
 knight named Fulbert. He assumed 
 the name of De Dover (the lands 
 having been granted to him for the 
 defence of Dover Castle), and the 
 line of his descendants expired in 
 Isabel de Dover, Countess of Athole, 
 who died here in 1292, and whose 
 tomb remains in the undercroft of 
 Canterbury Catliedral. Through the 
 great house of Badlesmere, and 
 many others, it at last came to 
 Sir Thomas Cheney, Edward VI. 's 
 Warden of the Cinque Ports, who 
 pulled down the greater part of 
 the ancient l^uildings, in order to 
 complete his mansion at Shurland, 
 in the Isle of Sheppey, witli the 
 materials. At the beginning of 
 the 17th cent. Chilliam became the 
 property of Sir Dudley Digges, who 
 built a new residence here — that 
 which now exists. It was completed 
 in lGl(j, and is a fine specimen of 
 James I. architecture. From his 
 descendants it passed to the Cole- 
 brooks in 1752, and thence to the 
 Herons and Wildmans, the present 
 possessors. 
 
 The Church is Dec, with a later 
 clerestory, and belonged to the 
 Priory of Throwleigh, a cell of the 
 Benedictine Abbey of St. Bertin, 
 until the suijpression of alien houses, 
 Avhen it was granted to the monas- 
 tery of Sion. Tlie S. chancel has 
 been appropriated to the illustration 
 of the house of Digges, wliose monu- 
 mental display here deserves atten- 
 tion. An obelisk rises in the centre 
 of the chancel, having a sehjction 
 from the cardinal viitues arranged 
 about its base. Temperance and 
 Fortitude are especially commended 
 to the attention of the curious. Ob- 
 serve also the pillar to Lady Digges, 
 " in imitation of that set up by Jacob
 
 Kent, 
 
 RouU 8 . — Chartham . 
 
 157 
 
 over Eaclicl." The N. cliancc4 has 
 been rebuilt, in imitation of a Ro- 
 man cohnubariiim, witli circles for in- 
 scrij^tions instead of m-n-niehes, and 
 is appropriated to the Colebrooks. 
 In the main chancel is a momunent 
 by Chantrey, for T. Wildman, Esq., 
 whicli the visitor is not boinid to 
 admire unless he chooses. A monu- 
 ment here to one of the Fogg family, 
 and another to a Lady Digges in 
 the N. transept, are unusual. Both 
 are early 17th cent. work. They 
 are of marble, covered with minute 
 arabesques and diapered patterns, 
 worked in the stone itself. 
 
 The views over the valley of the 
 Stom- fi-om the castle, and from the 
 high ground above the village, are 
 of great beauty. The tower of Wye, 
 and farther on that of Ashford, are 
 good landmarks. 
 
 The park which surromids Cliil- 
 ham Castle is of some extent ; but 
 although it commands a more exten- 
 sive view, and has in it some noble 
 old trees, especially chestnuts, it is 
 not perhaps so picturesque as a whole 
 as that of Godsmershani (Edward 
 Knight, Esq.), which adjoins it E. 
 At the S.E. end of this park, close 
 to the river, are the Chm-eh and vil- 
 lage of Godmersham. The Church, 
 with the manor, belonged to Ch. Cli. 
 Canterbiu-y. A short distance N. is 
 the old manor-house of the Priors, 
 much altered, but still retaining a 
 very interesting fragment of 13th 
 cent, work, probably due to Prior 
 Henry de Estria, who repaired the 
 house here about 129U. There is a 
 doorway, now built up, with good 
 mouldings, and in the upper part a 
 figure of the prior, with mitre and 
 crozier. The cylindrical chimney 
 in the gaV)le adjoining is of the same 
 date, and apparently re'tams its 
 original cap])ing. {Hudson Turner.) 
 Tlie hall and the other parts of the 
 building were pulled down about 
 1810. 
 
 The very interesting Church of 
 Chartham, about half way between 
 
 Chilham and Canterbury, and seen 
 rt. from the rail, must be visited 
 from the latter city, 3J m., since 
 there is no station here. 
 
 The nave is jjartly E. E., the 
 chancel Dec. (toward the end of Ed- 
 ward 11. 's reign), and has 4 windows 
 on either side, the tracery of which 
 is very beautiful and unusual. The 
 E. window is the double of one of 
 tlic side windows. Examples of this 
 Iieculiar tracery, which has been 
 called " the Kentisli," occur in tlie 
 hall windows at Penshurst, in the 
 chapel windows at Leeds Castle, and 
 in the windows of tlie hall at May- 
 field, Sussex. Observe the trefoil 
 moulding which comiects the win- 
 dows within. Some of the original 
 stained glass remains, and deserves 
 careful notice ; the red and green 
 vine-leaf pattern bordering the lights 
 is especially graceful. On the N. 
 side is an unknown tomb, probably 
 tliat of the builder of the chancel, 
 and on the floor the very fine brass 
 of a knight of the Septvans family, 
 an excellent example of armour, 
 temp. Edw. II. : on his shield, surcoat, 
 and aillettes or shoulder-pieces, are 
 3 wheat screens or fans, the arms of 
 the Septvans. The mailed coif is 
 tlirown back from the head. The 
 " hauketon " of leather, appears at 
 the wrists, and again below the 
 ringed hauberck. The " polejus" or 
 knee-ijieces are highly ornamented. 
 There are 3 smaller 15th cent. Brasse» 
 for rectors of Chartham. 
 
 Between the nave and chancel are 
 trefoil-headed hagioscopes. 
 
 In the S. transept is an elaborate 
 monument by Eysbrach for Sir 
 William Young and his wife Sarah 
 Fagg ; and adjoining are other re- 
 cords of the Faggs of Mystole, all of 
 whom it appears " exemplarily satis- 
 fied the ends for which they were 
 born." The N. transept contains 
 the monument of Dr. Delangle, 1724, 
 a French refugee, who became canon 
 of Westminster and rector here. 
 The whole of this ch., but especi- 
 
 I 3
 
 158 
 
 Route 8. — Canterhwy. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 ally the chancil, deserves the most 
 careful exaiiiiuation. 
 
 The village of Chartham is built 
 round a green, on one side of which 
 is the " Delangle House," built by 
 the Doctor, and marked by a bust of 
 Charles II., with sceptre and cushion, 
 iu a niche over the entrance. At the 
 back of the village is a large pajier- 
 mill, the smoke from which is con- 
 spicuous throughout the whole 
 valley. 
 
 In 1668 one of the first discoveries 
 of enormous fossil bones which at- 
 tracted the attention of the learned 
 was made at Chartham in sinking a 
 well, and gave rise to various specu- 
 lations. 
 
 On the Downs above the village, 
 W., are some relics of a mmiber of 
 tumuli called Danes' Banks, the 
 greater part of which were examined 
 by Mr. Faussett. S. of the tumuli 
 the Downs are marked by entrench- 
 ment lines which cross them from 
 E. to W. 
 
 The visitor may return to Can- 
 terbury by a pleasant field-path, 
 which will Ining him to Harbledown, 
 above the city. About half way, 
 and in the lower ground, is the farm- 
 house of Ttiniford, where are some 
 remains of a mansion originally be- 
 longing to an ancient family of that 
 name. The gateway arch is early 
 Perp. and very gracefvd. In the 
 ruined wall, which seems to have en- 
 closed a quadrangle, and in tlie wall 
 of the present liouse, are fragments of 
 circular towers, which are probably 
 earlier. Sir Thomas Browne, 27 
 Hen. VI., obtained leave to " em- 
 battle and empark," and the later 
 work may be his. The house was 
 moated. 
 
 In returning to Canterbuiy by the 
 road, the little desecrated Church of 
 Horfon is first past, 1., now used as a 
 barn, but containing a curious Dec. 
 roof. Beyond is Milton (E. E.), and 
 next Thaiiinyton, very rude E. E., 
 witii a low square tower at N. side 
 of nave, and 2 lunceta in the E. 
 
 gable instead of the usual .". In the 
 churchyard is a large yew. Both 
 these churches are dedicated to the 
 great Norman patron, St. Nicholas. 
 
 From the railway, beyond Chart- 
 ham, tliese churches are seen rt. ; 
 1. is the high ground of Harbledown, 
 with its jjicturesque old hospital, 
 after passing which the train rapidly 
 reaches 
 
 14 m. Cunterhury (Pop. 18,000). 
 Hotels : the Foimtain (best and 
 dearest) ; Rose (very good) ; Fleur 
 de Lys. (The Red Lion is perhaps 
 the most ancient. In it Charles V.'s 
 ambassadors were entertained by 
 the town iu 1520 ; but it may be 
 questioned whetlier Dr. Dryasdust, 
 however enthusiastic, would be con- 
 tented with its present accommoda- 
 tion. It may here be mentioned 
 that "Canterbury brawn" enjoys a 
 considerable and deserved celebrity.) 
 
 The station is without tlie city ; 
 and in entering it, through the 
 suburb of S. Dunstan's, fitting asso- 
 ciations are at once suggested to the 
 visitor by the galdes of the Star Inn 
 fronting him as he turns into the 
 street. This, which has lately been 
 repaired, was an ancient hostel with- 
 out the walls, for pilgrims who ar- 
 rived after the gates were closed at 
 nightfall. The interior is entirely 
 altered. The W. gate, beyond, by 
 which the city is entered, is the 
 work of Abp. Simon of Sudbury 
 (1374-1381), who repaired the greater 
 part of the city walls, then fallen into 
 decay. The most important portions 
 of these walls now remaining are in 
 Broad Street, where two or three of 
 the turrets or small watch-towers, 
 orderly placed, are still nearly per- 
 fect. There were 6 gates, of which 
 the W. gate alone now exists, thanks 
 to a judicious town council, wlio, 
 having jjulled down the rest, thought 
 it prudent to leave this as an attrac- 
 tion for archffiological visitors. The 
 upjier ])art of the gate, together with 
 the building adjoining, serves as the 
 city prison. The whole character of
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 8. — Canto-bury — Ilidory, 
 
 159 
 
 the city -witliin in ancient. Gabled 
 ends and projecting fronts rnn np 
 the Higli Street ; and altliongli Mr. 
 Euskin points out their diminutive- 
 ness as compared with the grander 
 masses of an old continental town 
 — (as Sorbiere (1665) had done be- 
 fore — " The houses are low, and the 
 stories scarce higli enough for a man 
 of middle size, who can touch the 
 ceiling with his hand ")— there are 
 hero and there ramblmg latticed 
 fronts, behind which we may ima- 
 gine David Copperfield's Agnes, and 
 openings thi'ough narrow lanes to- 
 ward the catliedi'al and its pre- 
 cincts, as picturesque as the most ex- 
 acting artist can possibly demand. 
 
 The island which the Stour here 
 formed in its windings, and its i")osi- 
 tion just at the point at which the 2 
 estuaries (the greater Stoiir here, and 
 the lesser about Bridge 2 m. distant) 
 ceased to be navigable, were the 
 probable reasons which induced the 
 Britons Of Kent to fix their chief 
 town here. The Koman city, Diiro- 
 vernum (perhaps from the Brit. Dur 
 Guairn, "the Alder river," or Dur 
 Gwern, " the river of marshes "), 
 which took its place, seems to have 
 been irregular in form, covering 
 nearly the whole of modern Canter- 
 bury. Of the mode of its first occui^a- 
 tion by the Saxons we know nothing ; 
 but in their hands it at once became 
 Cavfivarahyrig, Canterbury, " the 
 stronghold of the men of Kent." 
 (Some interesting notices of its con- 
 dition at this time will be found in 
 Wriyht's ' Celt., Hum., and Sax.,' ch. 
 last.) After the arrival of Augus- 
 tine (597) and tlie conversion of 
 Ethel iDcrt, Canterbury rose in im- 
 portance as the spot from which the 
 rest of England was to be chris- 
 tianised, and afterwards as the me- 
 tropolitical cih". It was eclipsed, 
 however, on the extinction of the 
 kingdom of Kent, by the royal cities 
 of London and Winchester ; and in 
 spite of tlio great reputation of 
 Aljps. Lanfranc and Auselm, Can- 
 
 terbury itself was comparatively 
 little heard of, until the murder of 
 Becket in the cathedral (1170) 
 lifted it at once to an equality with 
 the most sacred shrines of Europe. St. 
 Augustine, the former patron saint, 
 gave place to the new martyr. The 
 3 Cornish choughs in Becket's coat 
 were inserted in the shield of the 
 town, and the common seal ex- 
 liibited the verse — 
 
 ' Ictibus immensis Thomas qui corruit ensis 
 'Tutor ab oilt-usis urbis sii Cautuariensis." 
 
 From this time " Candelberg," as 
 our German cousins were pleased to 
 call it, became imiversally cele- 
 brated. Pilgrims from all parts of 
 Christendom hastened to pay their 
 vows at the tomb ; and " Cantorbiere, 
 la cite vaillante," took its jjlace in 
 the verses of the Romancers, side by 
 side with Cologne, "la Mirabel," 
 and Compostella, the city of " Mon- 
 seigneur S. Jacques." But the story 
 of Canterbury is best read in the 
 great buildings which still remain. 
 The visitor who desires fuller in- 
 formation than can be given here 
 must provide himself with 3Ir. 
 Stanley's 'Historical Memorials of 
 Canterbury' {Murray), and I'rofessor 
 WiU/s's ' Architectural Hist, of 
 Canterbury Cathedral ' (Longman). 
 From both we have borrowed largely. 
 Placing ourselves in the position 
 of Canterbury pilgrims, we may now 
 approach the Cathedral. At tlie W. 
 corner of Mercery Lane, opening 
 from the High Street, stood the 
 hostelry called the Checquers of the 
 Hope, at which Chaucer's company 
 reposed themselves. It was built 
 (or at all events enlarged) for the 
 especial accommodation of pilgrims 
 by Prior Chillenden (1390-1411). 
 " The stone arches of the windows 
 extending down Mercery Lane 
 formed part of its lower story. 
 The first opening W. of the lano 
 shows part of the court into which 
 the pilgrims rode. Its upper stories 
 were entirely composed, like houses
 
 160 
 
 Route 8. — CiUiVniiury — Cathedral. 
 
 ^ect. I, 
 
 in Switzerland, of massive timber, 
 chiefly oak and cliesnut." lu the 
 liiglicst, " approached by stairs from 
 the outside, which have now dis- 
 appeared, a spacious cliamber still 
 remains, supported on wooden pil- 
 lars, and covered by a high-jjitchcd 
 wooden roof, traditionally known as 
 the Dormitory of the Hundred 
 Beds." Here wo may imagine the 
 Miller and the Ileve and the Ship- 
 man reposing, whilst the more dis- 
 tinguished pilgrims sought quarters 
 within the great monastery, or in 
 other religious houses. Mtreenj 
 Lane itself takes its name from the 
 shops and stalls which lined it, in 
 which the pilgrims sought memo- 
 rials of their visit, principally leaden 
 brooches representhig the mitred 
 head of the saint, with the inscrip- 
 tion " Caput Thomae." These and 
 the " Ampulles" of water distri- 
 buted within the cathedral were 
 the great marks of a Canterbury 
 pilgrim, as the scallop-shell was of 
 Compostella, or the palm-branch of 
 Palestine. From these mercer)'- 
 stalls King John of France, on his 
 return fi'om liis captivity, bought " a 
 knife for the Count of Auxerre." 
 At the end of Mercery Lane was 
 the ancient nish-market, in which 
 stood a great cross, gilt and painted. 
 AVe are now at the gate of the pre- 
 cincts. 
 
 No English cathedral more com- 
 pletely dominates over the svu-round- 
 ing town than Canterbury. " Tanta 
 magestate sese erigit in coilum," 
 says Erasmus {Pereg. Relig. ergo), 
 " lit procul etiam intuentibus reli- 
 gionem incutiat." It has all the 
 imjiressiveness of some great natural 
 feature, rock or mountain, in the 
 midst of a comparative!)' level dis- 
 trict. It must not be forgotten that 
 it served at once as the metro- 
 political ch., and as that of a great 
 monastery : for as in the case of all 
 missionary churches, Augustine es- 
 tablished a convent here in con- 
 nexion with his cathedral. Lanfranc, 
 
 after the Conquest, compiled a strict' 
 rule for it and the other BenedictiBe 
 monasteries throughout England. It 
 was known as the Convent of 
 Christ's Church, and the massive 
 wall by wliich it was surrounded, 
 rendering it a fortress within a 
 fortress, served at once for defence 
 and for seclusion. This exterior 
 wall was greatly strengthened by 
 Lanfranc, and some portions still re- 
 maining are probably of his time. 
 The prmcipal entrance is Prior Gold- 
 stone s Gate, commonly called " Christ 
 Church Gate," at the end of Mer- 
 cery Lane, built 1517, and a tine 
 example of late Peip. The central 
 niche was filled by a figure of Our 
 Saviour, and the defaced bearings oo. 
 the shields below were those of con- 
 tributors towards the work. The 
 battlements with which the gate was 
 originally crested were taken down 
 not many years ago. Passing within 
 it, we enter the precincts of the 
 Cathedral. 
 
 The site on which it stands is the 
 same on which stood the primitive 
 Roman or British church attributed 
 to King Lucius, and granted by 
 Ethelbert to Augustine, "the first 
 instance in England, or in any of 
 the countries occupied by the bar- 
 barian tribes, of an endowment by 
 the State— the earliest monument 
 of the English miion of Church and 
 State." Eadmer expressly tells us 
 that it resembled in its arrange- 
 ments the old Basilica of St. Peter's 
 at Rome, destroyed in the IGth 
 cent, (see Willis, for an interesting 
 comparison of the two). As at St. 
 Peter's, the altar was originally at 
 the W. end, witli the episcopal 
 throne behind it : there was also in 
 both a crjqjt lu imitation of the 
 ancient catacomljs in which the 
 bones of the ajjostles were originally 
 fouiid, the first beginning of the 
 crypt which still exists at Can- 
 terbuiy. 
 
 These arrangements may either 
 have been made by St. Augustine
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 8. — Canterbury— Cathedral. 
 
 161 
 
 greatly injured 
 of Cauterburv 
 
 himself, or by Abp. Odo (940-960), 
 who restored the roof and walls of 
 the ch. The building remained un- 
 covered for 3 years, during Avhich 
 time, says Eadmcr, no rain fell 
 within its sacred enclosm-e. The 
 renewed ch. was 
 during the sack 
 by the Danes (1011), when the 
 " beata monachoruni plebs" were 
 massacred, and Alip. Alphege carried 
 oif to Greenwich, where he after- 
 wards shared their fate. Canute re- 
 paired it in expiation, hanging up 
 his crown in the nave, and restored 
 the body of the martyred Alphege 
 to the monks. The ch. was com- 
 pletely burnt down during the 
 troubled times of the Conquest 
 (10G7), together with the many bulls 
 and privileges of kings and popes 
 contained within. Of this first or 
 Augustine's chm'ch, no fragment re- 
 mains. There are memorials of it 
 in the name of the cathedral (Christ's 
 Chm-ch), agreeing with Bede's state- 
 ment that Augustine consecrated the 
 Koman chm-ch he found in Can- 
 terbury "in nomine S. Salvatoris 
 Dei et Domini uostri J. C. ;"' in the 
 present cnjjA, which succeeded the 
 earlier one ; and in the southern porch, 
 which is the principal entrance at 
 present, as it was in the Saxon ch. 
 
 Lanfranc, the first archbishop after 
 the Conquest (1070-1089) found his 
 cathedral ch. completely in ruins, 
 pulled down the few remains of the 
 monastic buildings, and recon- 
 structed both ch. and monastery from 
 their foundations. Under Anselm, 
 the next archbishop (1093-1109), 
 the eastern part of this ch. was taken 
 down, and rc-erected with far greater 
 magnificence, by the care of Ernulph, 
 prior of the monastery. His suc- 
 cessor, Prior Conrad, finished the 
 chancel, and decorated it with so 
 much splendour that it was hence- 
 forth knowia as " the glorious Choir of 
 Conrad." The ch. thus finished was 
 dedicated by Abp. William in 1130. 
 "Henry King of England, David King 
 
 of Scotland, and all the bishops of 
 England, were present at this dedi- 
 cation, the " most famous," says 
 Gervase, " that had ever been heard 
 of on the earth since that of the 
 Temple of Solomon." It was in 
 this ch. that Bccket was murdered 
 (1170), and in the "glorious Choir 
 of Conrad" that his body was 
 watched by the monks during the 
 succeeding night. 4 years later 
 (1174) this choir was entirely burnt 
 down. " The people," says Gervase, 
 himself a monk of Ch. Ch., and an 
 eye-witness of the fire, " were asto- 
 nished that tlie Almighty should 
 suft'er such things, and, maddened 
 with excess of grief and perplexity, 
 they tore their hair, and beat the 
 walls and pavement of the ch. with 
 their hands and heads, blaspheming 
 the Lord and his saints, the patrons of 
 his Church," — a frenzy rather Italian 
 than English, but curiously illus- 
 trating the fierce excitability of 
 mediaeval times. The rebuilding was 
 intrusted to William of Sens, an 
 architect of " lively genius and good 
 reputation," who, beginning in Sept. 
 1174, continued the work till 1178, 
 when, just after an eclipse of the sun, 
 which Gervase sc^cms to intimate had 
 something to do with the accident, 
 " through the vengeance of God, or 
 spite of the devil," he fell from a 
 scaffolding raised for turning the 
 vault, and was so much injured that 
 he was compelled to retmu to 
 France. Another William succeeded 
 him as master architect, "English 
 by nation, small in body, but in 
 workmanslr'p of many kinds acute 
 and honest." Under the care of 
 English William the choir and the 
 eastern buildings beyond it were 
 completed in 1184, 10 years from the 
 burning of Conrad's Choir. 
 
 Lanfranc's Nave still remained ; 
 but was taken down, and a new nave 
 and transepts were built, under Prior 
 Chillendeu, the works extending 
 over the years between 1378-1410. 
 The great central tower, at least
 
 162 
 
 Route 8. — Canteruury — Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 tliat part of it which rises above the 
 roof, was added bv Prior Goldstone 
 II. about 1495. 
 
 The present cathedral consists 
 either of "portions or of the whole of 
 these diifereut works, from the re- 
 building by Lanfranc, to the death 
 of Prior Goldstone, a period of more 
 tliau 4 centuries. It thus exliibits 
 specimens of nearly all the classes 
 of pointed architecture, tlie principal 
 being Trans. -Norm, and Perp. Its 
 gradual enlargements, under Anselm 
 and later, as well as its general ar- 
 rangements, arose mainly from the 
 great wealth of relics possessed by 
 the ch., and the necessity of finding 
 shrine-room for displaying them. 
 The Saxon ch. contained the liodies 
 of St. Blaize (bought by Abp. Pleg- 
 mund at Rome " for a great sum of 
 gold and silver.'' Is it from this 
 time that he becomes the patron of 
 the English and Flemish clotli- 
 workers '?) ; St. Wilfred, brought from 
 Eipon, ruined by the Northmen in 
 950 ; St. Dunstan, St. Alphege, and 
 other sainted archbishops of Can- 
 terbury ; St. Audoen, or Ouen, of 
 Kouen, brought to Canterbury by 
 4 clerks about 957 (there was un- 
 fortunately another body at Pi ouen); 
 besides the heads of St. Swithin, St. 
 Furseus, and others, and the arm of 
 St. Bartholomew. All these were 
 enclosed in various altars, and in 
 different chapels, and were carefully 
 removed from the rained cli. by 
 Ijanfranc. Tliey were replaced in 
 the new cathedral, where other 
 similar treasures were added to them, 
 and where they were at last joined 
 by the greatest of all, the martyred 
 St. Thomas of Canterbury. It 
 should also be remarked that the 
 existing cathedral, altliough of such 
 various dates, covers, as nearly as 
 can be ascertained, the same ground 
 as the original building of Lanfranc, 
 wth the exception of the nave, which 
 is of greater length westward. 
 
 We may now enter the cathedral, 
 thronged with remembrances of 
 
 almost eveiy reign in English his- 
 tory. Nearly all the archbishops, 
 " alterius orlDis papse" (the words 
 are first applied by Pope Pasclial II. 
 to Abp. Anselm), iDcfore the Reform- 
 ation are buried here, and most of 
 their tombs remain. " There is no 
 ch., no place in the kingdom, with 
 the exception of Westminster Abl^ey, 
 that is so closely connected with the 
 liistory of our couiitry." (Stanley.) 
 
 Tlie principal entrance is still, as 
 in Augustine s church, the S. Porch. 
 In the Saxon period and later " all 
 disputes, from the whole kingdom, 
 wliich could not be legally referred 
 to the King's Court, or to the hun- 
 dreds or counties, ' were judged in 
 the Sutli dure or porch, which was 
 generally built with an apse, in 
 which stood an altar. The present 
 porch is part of the work of Prior 
 Cliillenden, about 1400. On a panel 
 above the entrance Erasmus saw 
 the figm-es of Becket's 3 murderers, 
 " Tusci, Fusci, and Berri," whom 
 lie describes in his Colloquy as 
 sharing the same kind of honour 
 with Judas, Pilate, and Caiaphas, 
 when they appear on sculptured 
 altar-tables. These have quite dis- 
 appeared. In the portion that re- 
 mains is still traceable an altar sur- 
 moimtcd by a crucifix, between the 
 figures of the Virgin and St. John : 
 beside it are fragments of a sword, 
 marking it as the " Altar of the 
 Martyrdom." The arms over the 
 vaulting of the porch are probably 
 those of contributors towards tlie 
 rebuilding of the nave : among them 
 are England and France, the See of 
 Cauterbmy, Chichester, and Com- 
 tenay. 
 
 We now enter the Kctre. The 
 nave of Lanfianc's cathedral, which 
 covered the same ground as that 
 now existing, had in 1378 fallen into 
 a ruinous condition, when Abp. 
 Sudbmy issued a mandate granting 
 40 days' indulgence to all contri- 
 l)utors towards its rebuilding. Tlie 
 work was continued under his two
 
 Kext. 
 
 JRoute 8. — Canterbury — Cathedral. 
 
 163 
 
 successors, Abps. Courtenay and 
 Arundel, the architect being proba- 
 bly Thomas Chillenden, prior of the 
 convent. The nave dates therefore 
 from about 1380. Chillenden died 
 1411. " The style is a light Peqi., 
 and the arrangement of tlie parts 
 has considerable resemblance to 
 that of the nave of Winchester, 
 although the latter is of a much 
 bolder character. Winchester nave 
 was going on at the same time with 
 Canterbury nave, and a similar un- 
 certainty exists about the exact 
 commencement. In both a Norm, 
 nave was to be transformed, but at 
 Winchester the original piers were 
 either clothed with new ashlaring, or 
 the old ashlaring was wrought into 
 new forms and mouldings where 
 possible ; while in Canterbiuy the 
 jiiers were altogether rebuilt. Hence 
 the piers of Winchester are much 
 more massive. The side aisles of 
 Canterbury are higher in proportion, 
 the tracery of the side-windows dif- 
 ferent, but those of the clerestory 
 are almost identical in pattern, 
 although they difier in the manage- 
 ment of the moiddings. Both have 
 ' lierne" vaults, and in both the 
 triforium is obtained by prolonging 
 the clerestory windows downward 
 and making panels of the lower 
 lights, which panels liave a plain 
 opening cut through them, bj' which 
 the triforium space communicates 
 with the i^assage over the roof of 
 the side aisles." {WilUg.) 
 
 The first impression, however, 
 difters greatly from that of Win- 
 chester, mainly owing to the height 
 to whicli the choir is raised above 
 the crypt below, and the numerous 
 ste^js whicli are consequentlj' neces- 
 sary in order to reach it from the 
 nave. In this respect Canterbury 
 .stands alone among both English 
 and foreign cathedrals. These 
 stately " escaliers," combined with 
 the height and grandeur of the piers, 
 lireakiug up from the pavement 
 like some natural forest of stone, 
 
 have always produced their effect 
 even in the darkest anti-gothic pe- 
 riod. " Entering in company with 
 some of our colonists just arrived 
 from America .... how have I seen 
 the countenances even of their 
 negroes sparkle with raptures of ad- 
 miration!'' {GostUng's Walk, 1770.) 
 Here the pilgrims waited, admiring 
 the " spaciosa asdiflcii majestas," 
 and deciphering the painted win- 
 dows, until the time came for visit- 
 ing the great shrine. " The nave 
 contained nothing," says Erasmus, 
 " excejit some books chained to the 
 pillars, among them the Gospel of 
 Nicodemus, and the tomb of some 
 unknown person." This must have 
 been either the chapel in the S. wall, 
 afterwards called Dean Neville's, 
 built in 1447 by Lady Joan Brench- 
 lej, and removed altogether in 1787, 
 or the tomb of Abp. Wliittlesea, d. 
 1374, now destroyed. The Gospel 
 of Nicodemus had been printed by 
 Wynkyn de Worde in 1509. Of the 
 nave stained windows none remain 
 entire, the great W. window having 
 been made up of fragments from 
 the others. In this, under the i^oint 
 of the arch, are the arms of Richard 
 II. imj^aling the Confessor's, those of 
 Anne of Bohemia on N. side, and of 
 Isabella of France S. The memo- 
 rial window adjoining it S., and 
 that imder the new tower N., are 
 the work of G. Austin, Esq. ; as 
 ai'e also the windows in the cleres- 
 tory, and that on the S. side — 
 tlie first of a series, having for its 
 subject the Te Deum, which is de- 
 signed to fill the windows of the 
 nave. In the N. aisle of nave are the 
 monuments of Adrian Saravia, the 
 friend of Hooker, who died here a 
 prebendary in 1612 ; of Orlando 
 Gibbon.s, organist to Charles I.; and 
 of Sir John Boys (d. 1G14), founder 
 of the hospital without the North 
 gate. Memorials to ofiioers and men 
 of diflerent regiments engaged in the 
 Indian campaigns have recently 
 been placed against the walls ; and
 
 164 
 
 Route 8. — Canterbury — Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 in the S. aisle a recumbent figure of 
 Dr. Bronghton, Bp. of Sidney, an 
 old King's scliolar, in English ala- 
 baster, by Lough. The G panels in 
 front bear the arms of the 6 Austra- 
 lian sees. 
 
 The piers -which support the 
 central toicer are probably the ori- 
 ginal piers of Lanfranc's erection, 
 cased with Pcrp. -work by Prior 
 Cliillenden at the same time with 
 the building of the nave. To this, 
 Prior Goldstone II. (1495-1517) 
 added the vaulting of the tower, and 
 all the portion above the roof, toge- 
 ther with the remarkable buttressing 
 arches supporting the piers below, 
 which had perhaps shown some 
 signs of weakness. These arches 
 have on them the prior's rebus, a 
 sliield with 3 gold stones. The 
 central arch occupies the place of 
 the ancient rood-loft, and i^robably 
 tlie great rood was placed on it until 
 the Eeformation. 
 
 The western screen, through which 
 we enter the choir, has no recorded 
 date, but is of the 15th cent. It is 
 very beautiful and elaborate, and its 
 carvings deserve tlie most careful ex- 
 amination. Of the G crowned figures 
 in the luwcr niches, the one holding a 
 ch. is probably Ethelbert, the others 
 are luu-ertain. Figures of the Savi- 
 our and his Apostles originally filled 
 the 13 mitred niches encircling the 
 arch, but were destroyed by the 
 Puritan " Blue Dick" and his friends. 
 The wliole screen, including the 
 figures, has lately been carefidly re- 
 stored. 
 
 On entering the Choir, the visitor 
 is immediately struck by the sin- 
 gular bend with which the walls 
 approach each other at the eastern 
 end. But this remarkalde featin-e, 
 together with the great length 
 and narrowness of the choir (it is 
 the longest in England), the low- 
 ness of the vaulting combined with 
 the antique character of the archi- 
 tecture, enforced by the strongly con- 
 trasted Piubeck and Caen stone, and 
 
 the consequent fine effects of light 
 and shadow — all this produces a so- 
 lemnity not unfitting the first great 
 resting-place of the faith in Saxon 
 England, and carries the mind more 
 completely back into the past than 
 many a cathedj-al more richly and 
 elaborately decorated. The choir 
 as it at present exists is the work of 
 William of Sens, and his successor 
 English William (1174-1184), by 
 whom it was rebuilt after the burn- 
 ing of that of Conrad. Gervase, the 
 contemporary monk, supplies full 
 details of all the operations, so that 
 we are enabled to follow the works 
 year by year. (See translation in 
 Willis.) The style is throughout 
 Transition, having Norm, and E.E. 
 characteristics cm-iously intermixed. 
 The pillars with their pier arches, 
 the clerestory wall above, and the 
 great vault up to the transepts, were 
 entirely finished by WiUiara of Sens. 
 The wliole work dilfered greatly 
 from that of the former choir. The 
 richly foliated and varied capitals 
 of the pillars, the great vault with 
 its ribs of stone, and the numerous 
 slender shafts of marble in the 
 triforia, were all novt^lties exciting 
 the great admiration of the moiiks. 
 
 The Cathedral of Sens must 
 have largely influenced the architect 
 William : it dates from 1143 to 1168, 
 and must have been well known at 
 Canterljury from Becket's residence 
 there during his exile. It has several 
 peculiarities in connnon with Can- 
 terbury ; for exanqjle, double piers, 
 composed of two columns, set one 
 behind the other, foliated capitals, 
 rings on some of the slender shafts, 
 and the same system of vaulting. 
 The mouldings of William of Sens 
 are very varied, exhibiting a pro- 
 fusion of billet-work, zigzag, and dog- 
 tooth — the first two characteristics 
 of Norm., the last of E. E. — a mix- 
 ture of ornaments in accordance 
 with the mixtm-e of round and 
 pointed arches throughout. The 
 triforium exhibits this curiously.
 
 Kent. 
 
 lioute 8 . — Canierhury — Cathedral. 
 
 105 
 
 the outer arch licing circular, the 
 two inner, which it circumscribes, 
 pointed. The clerestory arches are 
 pointed. The stone vault was one 
 of the earliest, if not the very tirst, 
 constructed in England, and ex- 
 hibits the same mixtiu'e of styles. 
 Some of the transverse ribs are 
 pointed, others round ; the diagonal 
 are all round. William of Sens fell 
 from the upper part of the clerestory 
 wall, a height of 50 ft., whilst pre- 
 paring to tmn the portion of this 
 vault between the transepts. Of this 
 part he directed the completion from 
 his bed, and the work was then re- 
 signed to English William. The 
 remarkable contraction of the choir, 
 at the head of the ch., was rendered 
 necessary from the architect's desire 
 of uniting his work with the 2 towers 
 of 8t. Anselni and St. Andrew, 
 which still remain on either side. 
 These had escaped during the recent 
 fii'e, and, as they were not to be re- 
 moved, they " woiild not allow the 
 breadth of the choir to i3roceed in 
 the direct line" {Gervase). It was 
 also determined that a Chapel of 
 St. Thomas, the new martyr, should 
 be placed at the head of the ch. in 
 the room of the Chapel of the Trinity, 
 which had been destroyed ; but the 
 dimensions were to be preserved ; 
 and as it was much narrower than the 
 choir, this last had to be narrowed 
 so as to coincide mth it. 
 
 The second transepts already ex- 
 isted in the former ch., and were 
 retained by William of Sens. The 
 best general views of the choir 
 will be obtained ti-om the upper 
 stalls, N. and S., toward the W. 
 end, where the full beauty of these 
 transepts is gained. The effects of 
 light are grand, though it is much 
 to be wished that the whole of the 
 windows in the transept clerestory 
 were filled with stained glass. Colour 
 might perhaps also be introduced 
 with advantage throughout the 
 vaulting itself, which is now some- 
 what cold and ceiling-like. 
 
 The Screeii surrounding the choir 
 is the work of Prior Henry de Estria 
 (constmctcd 1304-5), and is " valu^ 
 able on accovuit of its well-ascer- 
 tained date, combined with its great 
 beauty and singularity." {TVillis), 
 The entire height is 14 ft. The N. 
 doorway remains perfect ; its central 
 pendant bosses are especially re- 
 markable. The S. door is much 
 later, and is " manifestly a subse- 
 quent insertion." 
 
 The great height to which the 
 altar is raised was the result of 
 the new crypt vmder St. Thomas's 
 Chapel, E. of the choir, which is 
 miich loftier than the oLler choir 
 crji^t. On the completion of the 
 choir by William of Sens, the high 
 altar stood completely isolated, with- 
 out a reredos ; and behind it, E., 
 was placed the metropolitan^ chair, 
 its ancient and true position, still to 
 be seen in many early continental 
 churches (Torcello iii the Lagunes of 
 Venice is an excellent example). 
 This was afterNvards removed into 
 the Corona, and is now in the S, 
 choir transept. 
 
 The Reredos, which was erected 
 behind the high altar (probably 
 during the 14th cent.), was destroyed 
 by the Puritans in l(j42. It was 
 succeeded byan elaborate Corinthian 
 screen, which was removed only a 
 few years since, and replaced by the 
 present reredos, " imitated from the 
 screen work of the Lady Chapel in 
 the crypt." The high altar before 
 the Reformation was most richly 
 adorned ; and in a grated vault 
 beneath was a treasury of gold and 
 silver vessels, in presence of which, 
 says Erasmus, Midas and Croesus 
 would have seemed but beggars. 
 The Puritans destroyed " a most 
 idolatrous costly glory cloth," pie- 
 sented by Laud. The existing altar- 
 coverings, of crimson velvet, were 
 the gift of Queen Mary, wife of 
 William III., on a visit to the 
 cathedral. Among the plate is a 
 chalice, the offering of the Earl of
 
 IGo 
 
 Route 8. — Canterlury — Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Arunilcl, Ambassador of Charles I. 
 to Germany, on bis passing tki'ougb 
 {Canterbury in 163G. 
 
 The wainscoting •\vhicb formerly 
 concealed the tracery of Prior de 
 Estria's screen lias been removed, 
 except at the W. end. The pews, of 
 the same character, also remain. A 
 Corinthian throne of wainscot, 
 carved by Gibbons, and presented 
 by Abp. Tenison in 1704, has been 
 lately replaced by a lofty canopy 
 of stone tabernacle work, the gift of 
 Abp. Howley. 
 
 The Orrjan formerly stood over 
 the W. door, but has now been 
 " ingeniously deposited out of sight 
 in the triforimn of the S. aisle of the 
 choir. A low pedestal with its keys 
 stands S. in the choir itself, so as 
 to place the organist close to the 
 singers, as he ought to be, and the 
 communication between the keys 
 and the organ is effected by trackers 
 passing under the pavement of the 
 side aisles, and conducted up to the 
 triforium, through a trunk let into 
 the S. wall " ( Willis). The services 
 are performed with great order and 
 beauty. 
 
 An especial interest belongs to a 
 small portion of the pavement of the 
 choir, lying between the transepts. 
 It is of a peculiar stone, or veined 
 marble, of a delicate brown colour ; 
 and, " when parts of it are taken up 
 for repair or alteration, it is usual to 
 find lead which has run between the 
 joints of the slabs, and spread on 
 each side below, and which is with 
 great reason supposed to be the 
 effect of the tire of *1174, which 
 melted the lead of the roof, and 
 caused it to run down between 
 the paving-stones in this manner." 
 (^Willis.) This is, therefore, a frag- 
 ment of the original pavement of 
 tlie "glorious choir of Conrad," in 
 which the body of Becket was 
 watched by the monks tliroughout 
 the night following the murder. 
 
 Within the choir, before the Ee- 
 formation, there were, besides the 
 
 high altar, the altar-shrines of St. 
 Alphege and St. Dunstan. That 
 of St. Alphege, the Abp. martyred 
 by the Northmen in 1011, whose 
 body was restored to Canterbury by 
 Canute, was on the N. side near the 
 present altar. No trace of it exists. 
 On the S. wall of the choir, between 
 the monuments of Abjis. Stratford 
 and Sudbury, still remains some 
 diaper-work of open lilies, a part of 
 the decoration of Dmistan's altar, 
 which stood there. The bodies of 
 St. Alphege and St. Dunstan, "co- 
 exiles with the monks," after the 
 fire, says Gervase, were re-conveyed 
 into the new choir with great cere- 
 mony. The shrine of Dunstan was 
 opened by Abp. Warham in 1508, 
 in consequence of a dispute with 
 the monks of Glastonburv, who 
 declared that the body of the tongs- 
 wielding saint had been removed to 
 Glastonbury after the sack of Can- 
 terbury by the Danes. A body, 
 however, -svith a plate of lead on 
 the breast, inscribed " Sanctus Dun- 
 stanus," was found on the opening of 
 the shrine. A portion of the saint's 
 skull was then enclosed in a silver 
 reliquiary, made in the form of a 
 head, and placed among the other 
 relics, which, in their ivory, gilt, or 
 silver coffers, were exhibited to the 
 pilgrims on the N. side of the choir. 
 Among them were pieces of Aaron's 
 rod, of the clay from which Adam 
 was made, and, especially precious, 
 the right arm of " our dear lord, 
 the knight St. George." Each of 
 these relics was devoutly kissed, ex- 
 cept by such " Wickliffites " as Dean 
 Colet, who visited Canterbury with 
 Erasmus in 1512. 
 
 The moniunents in the choir will 
 be best examined from the side 
 aisles. Leaving it again at the W. 
 door of the screen, we follow in the 
 track of the pilgrims, who were usu- 
 ally conducted into the N. transepi, 
 called the Transept of the Martyrdom, 
 through the dark passage under the 
 choir steps. We are now on the
 
 Kext. 
 
 Houte 8. — Canterhurii — Cathedral. 
 
 1G7 
 
 actual scene of the murder ; but 
 although the transept was not in- 
 jured by the fire which consumed 
 Conrad's choir, it was completelj^ 
 altered by prior Chillenden during 
 the building of the present nave. 
 Lanfranc's ch. had closely resem- 
 bled that of the monastery of St. 
 Stephen at Caen, of which he was 
 abbot, and which was in building at 
 the same time. In the transept of 
 St. Stephen's may still be seen the 
 arrangement which existed in that of 
 Canterbury at the time of Becket's 
 murder. 
 
 The transept was divided into an 
 upper and lower portion by a vault 
 open on the side of the nave, where 
 it was sui^ported by a single jjillar. 
 In the E. apse of the loaxr part was 
 the altar of St. Benedict ; in the 
 upper, that of St. Blaize. Many of 
 the Saxon archbishops also were 
 buried in the loit-er apse. There was 
 a piece of solid wall iutcrvemng be- 
 tween this apse and two flights of 
 steps, one leading down into the 
 crj-pt, the other up^^■ard into the N. 
 aisle of the choir. In the W. wall 
 a door opened into the cloister. 
 Becket, after the violent scene in 
 his chamber with the knights, was 
 dragged along the cloister by the 
 monks, and entered the transept by 
 this door, which, after it had been 
 barred bj^ his attendants, he flung 
 open himself, saying that '"the ch. 
 must not be turned into a castle ;" 
 and tlie knights, who had followed 
 through the cloister, now instantly 
 rushed into the ch. It was about 5 
 o'clock, Dec. 29, 1170, O. S., and 
 Tuesday, remarked as a siguificant 
 day in Becket's life, and aftei-wards 
 regarded as the weekday especially 
 consecrated to the saint. The ch. 
 must have been nearly dark, witli 
 the exception of the few lamps burn- 
 ing here and there before tlie altars. 
 Tespers had already commenced, 
 but were thrown into utter confusion I 
 on the news of the kniglits' approach, 
 and, when they entered the cathedral, 
 
 all the monks who had gathered 
 about Becket fled to the different 
 altars and hiding-places, and there 
 remained with him only Robert, 
 canon of IMerton, his old instructor, 
 William FitzStephen, his chaplain, 
 and Edward Grim, the Saxon monk. 
 They urged him to ascend to the 
 choir, and he had already i^assed up 
 some steps of the eastern flight 
 leading to it, perhaps intending to 
 go to the patriarchal chair at the 
 high altar, when the knights rushed 
 in, and Reginald Fitziuse, who was 
 first, coming round the central pillar, 
 advanced to the foot of the steps, 
 and called out, " "VMiere is the 
 archbishop ? " Becket immediately 
 stopped, and retin-ned to the transept, 
 attired in his white rochet, with a 
 cloak and hood thrown over his 
 shoulders. He took up his station 
 between the central pillar and the 
 massive wall between St. Benedict's 
 altar and the choir steps. There 
 the knights gathered round him, and 
 at first endeavoured to drag him out 
 of the church. But Becket set his 
 back against the pillar, and resisted 
 with all his might, whilst Grim 
 flung his arm round him to aid his 
 efiorts. In the struggle Becket 
 threw Tracy down on the j^avement. 
 After a fierce dispute, in which 
 the archbishop's language was at 
 least as violent as that of the 
 knights, Fitzurse, roused to frenzy, 
 struck ofi" Becket's cap with his 
 sword. The archl)ishop then co- 
 vered his eyes with his hands and 
 commended himself to God, to St. 
 Denys of France, to St. Alphege, and 
 the other saints of the church. 
 Tracy sprang forward and struck 
 more decidedly. Grim, whose arm 
 was still round the archbishop, threw 
 it up to avert the blow ; the arm was 
 nearly severed, and Grim fled to the 
 altar of St. Benedict close by. The 
 stroke also wounded Becket, who 
 after 2 otliers, also from Tracy, fell 
 flat on his face before the corner 
 wall. In this posture, Richard le
 
 168 
 
 lioute 8. — Canterbury — Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. I, 
 
 Bret, cryiiie:, " Take this for the love 
 of my lord "William, the king's bro- 
 ther," struck him so violently that 
 the scalp or crown was severed from 
 the scull, and the sword snapped in 
 two on the pavement. Hugh of 
 Horsea, the chaplain of Eobert de 
 Broc, who was with the knights, 
 then thrust his sword into the wound 
 and scattered the hrains over the 
 floor. This was the final act. Hugh 
 de Moreville was the only one of the 
 knights who had struck no blow. 
 He had been hokling the entrance 
 of the transept. The four knights 
 then rushed from the church through 
 the cloisters, and re-entered the 
 palace, which they phuidered, carry- 
 ing oft" from the stables the horses, 
 on which Becket had always greatly 
 prided himself. 
 
 We have now to see how far the 
 existing transept retains any memo- 
 rials of this scene, regarded through- 
 out Christendom as unexampled in 
 sacrilege since the crucifixion of our 
 Lord. And firtit, much of the ori- 
 ginal Norman walls were allowed to 
 remain in the transepts when Chil- 
 lenden rebuilt them at the same time 
 with the nave ; and portions of Lan- 
 franc's ashlaring are still visible on 
 the W. side of the door leading into 
 the cloisters. This is, therefore, the 
 actual door hy which Becket and 
 the knights entered the ch. Next, 
 the wall between the chapel of St. 
 Benedict and the passage leading to 
 the cryi)t, in front of which the 
 archbishop fell, still remains unal- 
 tered : " for the masonry of the 15th 
 cent., which clothes every other part 
 of the transept, does not intnide it- 
 self here, but is cut oft" many feet 
 above." {Willis.') Lastly, there is 
 reason to believe that the pavement 
 immediately in front of the wall is 
 tliat existing at the time of the 
 nnn-der. It is a hard Caen stone, 
 and from the centre of one of the 
 flags a small square piece has been 
 cut out, wliich is saicl to have been 
 sent to Rome. It is certain that 
 
 such a relic was taken to Rome by 
 the legates in 1173, and deposited 
 in Sta. Maria Maggiore, where a 
 fragment of Becket s tunic, and small 
 bags, said to contain portions of the 
 brain, are still shown. The stone, 
 however, is no longer in existence. 
 In front of the wall, and on a por- 
 tion of the pavement, was erected a 
 wooden altar to the Virgin, called 
 " Altare ad punctum ensis," where a 
 portion of the brains was shown 
 under a piece of rock crystal, and 
 where were exhibited and kissed by 
 the pilgrims the fragments of Le 
 Brets sword, which had been broken 
 on the floor. (The sword worn by 
 Hugh de Moreville was preserved 
 in Carlisle cathedral, and is still to 
 be seen at Braytou Hall in Cumber- 
 land.) In order that this altar 
 might be better seen, the pillar and 
 vault above were removed. The 
 stairs also up which Becket was 
 ascending have disappeared ; but the 
 ancient arrangement, precisely simi- 
 lar, may still be seen in the S. tran- 
 sept. (The cloisters are generally 
 entered from this transept of the 
 Martyrdom. For a notice of them 
 see post.) 
 
 The great \vindow of the transept 
 was the gift of Edward IV. and his 
 Queen, whose figures still remain in 
 it, together with those of his daugh- 
 ters, and the two princes murdered 
 in the Tower. The "remarkably 
 soft and silvery appearance " of this 
 window is noticed by Winston. In 
 its original state the Virgin was pic- 
 tured in it "in seven several glorious 
 appearances, ' and in the centre was 
 Becket himself, at full length, robed 
 and mitred. This part was demo- 
 lished in 1642 by Ed. Culmer, called 
 Blue Dick, the great iconoclast of 
 Canterbury, who " rattled down 
 proud Becket s glassie bones " with 
 a pike, and who, when thus engaged, 
 narrowly escaped martyrdom himself 
 at the hands of a " malignant " fel- 
 low-townsman, who " threw a stone 
 with so good a will, that, if St.
 
 Kknt. 
 
 Route 8 . — Canterhury — Cathedral. 
 
 169 
 
 Ilicliard Culmer had not ducked, 
 lie might have laid his own buues 
 among the rubbish. " 
 
 In this transept are the monu- 
 ments o? Ahp. Fech-ham (1279-1292), 
 temp. Edw. I. (whose marriage with 
 Margaret of France was solemnized 
 by the Abp. on this spot in 1299). 
 Peckhams effigy is in Irish oak. 
 This is the earliest comi^lete monu- 
 ment in the cathedral. Adjoining 
 (a "very handsome specimen of a 
 very common design") is that of 
 Abp. T^'or/iam (1503-1532), the friend 
 and patron of Erasmus, at whose 
 death only 301. were found in his 
 coffers ; " satis viatici ad coelum ! " 
 said the Arclibishop. 
 
 The site of tlie chapel of St. Bene- 
 dict, to the altar of which Grim 
 fled, is now occupied by the Deaiis 
 or Lady Chapel, built by Prior Gold- 
 stone (1449-G8), in lionour of the 
 Virgin. It has a rich fan-vaidt. In 
 it are the monuments of many of the 
 deans : those of Fothcrhij, a curious 
 specimen of the worst "debased"' 
 taste ; of Dr. Bargrave (d. 1G42), 
 with the copy of a Jansen portrait, 
 now in the deanery ; of Dean Bd/jh, 
 seated in his study : and of Dr. 
 Turner, who attended Charles I. at 
 Hampton Court and in the Isle of 
 Wiglit, are the most remarkable. 
 
 From tlie transcjit of the martyr- 
 dom we advance into t\ic Nortli Aisle 
 of the Choir, np which the pilgrims 
 were conducted on their way to the 
 great shrine. The walls of the side- 
 aisles, and the choir transepts, were 
 not destroyed by tlie fire which con- 
 sumed Conrad's choir, and althongli 
 throughout altered and enriched by 
 William of Sens, still retain large 
 portions of the original work of Prior 
 Ernulf, by whom the rebuilding of 
 Lanfranc's choir was commenced 
 during the episcopate of Anselm. 
 For a careful distinction between tlie 
 architecture of Ernulf and William 
 of Sens, see Willis. The arcade at 
 the base of the wall in the aisle is 
 Ernulf s, and his piers and arch- j 
 
 heads were retained in the aisle- 
 windows,'whieh, however, were raised 
 by William about 3 ft. 8 in. In the 
 choir fraufiept, the clerestory win- 
 dows of Eruulf|'s work are the pre- 
 sent triforium windows. The arcade 
 work and monldings here, and the 
 present clerestory windows, are all 
 William of Sens'. There is a marked 
 difference, in the base-mouldings and 
 in the masonry of the vaulting-shafts, 
 between the works of Ernulf and 
 William, the first being much plainer. 
 Throughout, William of Sens, whilst 
 improving and enriching, seems to 
 have aimed at harmonizing his work 
 with Ernulf 's ; hence his mixture of 
 round and pointed arches, and a cer- 
 tain imitation in portions of orna- 
 mental mouldings, purposely kept 
 simple, although very graceful in 
 outline. " Ernulf 's carvings," says 
 Gervasc, " were worked by an axe, 
 and not a chisel, like William's," and 
 the difl:erence can readily be traced. 
 The stained windows in the lower 
 part of the aisle arc of extreme 
 beauty, and deserve the closest at- 
 tention. They are of the same date 
 and character as those in the Trinity 
 Chapel, to be hereafter mentionecl. 
 On the corner of the wall, adjoining 
 the transept, are the remains of a 
 wall-painting representing the con- 
 version of St. Hubert. In the Tran- 
 sept, a memorial-window has lately 
 been placed for Dr. Spry. In the 
 2 E. apses were the altars of St. 
 Stephen and St. Martin, and over 
 them relics of SS. Swithin and Vul- 
 garius. The bases of the arches, 
 opening into these apses, are William 
 of Sens' work, and very elegant. 
 
 At the end of the aisle, close to 
 the steps ascending to the retro- 
 clioir, is the door of St. Andrew's 
 Tower, part of Lanfranc's building, 
 now used as a vestry, and formerly 
 the sacristy, in which the privileged 
 class of pilgrims were shown the 
 " wealth " of silken robes and golden 
 candlesticks belonging to tlie ch., 
 Becket's pastoral staff" of pearwood.
 
 170 
 
 Route 8. — Canterhiiry — Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 witli its crook of black horn, bis 
 bloody baudkercbief, and a black 
 leatber chest, containing linen rags 
 with wbicli be wiped bis forehead 
 and blew bis uose. All knelt when 
 this chest was exhibited. 
 
 On the choir side of the aisle are 
 the monuments of Henry Chicheley 
 (1413-1444), the Abp. of Henry V. 
 and of Agincourt, the instigator of 
 the last great war of conquest in 
 France. This monument was erected 
 by him diu-ing bis life, and, like bis 
 college of All Souls, may possibly 
 indicate " bis deep remorse for this 
 sin," which seems also indicated in 
 a letter to the pope. The monu- 
 ment is remarkable in many respects. 
 The small figures in the niches are 
 perhaps of later date. It is kept in 
 repair and colour by the Warden 
 and Fellows of All Soids. Beyond 
 is a recinnbent figvire of Ah p. Howletj, 
 biuied at Addington, for which place 
 this momnnent was originally des- 
 tined. This is the first monument 
 of an arcbbisboiJ placed in the ca- 
 thedral since the Reformation. 
 
 The great loftiness of the crypt 
 xmder the new Trinity Chapel, I'cn- 
 dered necessary the steep flights of 
 steps by which it is reached from 
 the choir aisles. Up these the pil- 
 grims climbed on their knees, and 
 the indentations on the stones yet 
 tell of the long trains of worshippers 
 by which they have been mounted 
 age after age. At the foot of these 
 stairs were placed receptacles for of- 
 ferings. This " long succession of 
 ascents, l)y which cbiu-cb seemed 
 piled upon cbm-cb," may have sug- 
 gested the byimi to St. Thomas : 
 
 " Tu per ThomEB sanguinem 
 Ijuem pro te impendit, 
 F;ic iios Christo scandeix 
 Quo Tliomas ascendit." 
 
 Stanley. 
 
 The whole of this part of the Ca- 
 tbedi-al, from the choir-screen to the 
 extreme E. end, is the work of 
 English William. It is marked by 
 a lighter character than that of 
 
 William of Sens, though its main 
 featiu-es are the same. In the side 
 aisles, and in the E. apse or corona, 
 English William's style is best dis- 
 tinguished. His " slender marble 
 shafts" are so detached and com- 
 bined, as to produce " a much greater 
 lightness and elegance of effect than 
 in the work of the previous archi- 
 tect" (Willis), and a single order of 
 mouldings is used throughout. 
 
 In the ancient chapel of the Tri- 
 nity, burnt at the same time with 
 Conrad's choir, Becket had sung 
 his first mass after bis installation 
 as arcbljishop ; and after the rebuild- 
 ing, this was the spot chosen for his 
 shrine — toward the ancient position 
 of which the stranger first turns, in 
 spite of the stately tombs ai'ound 
 him. The jjlace where the .shrine 
 stood is exactly ascertained by the 
 mosaic of the pavement, a fragment 
 of the " Opus Alexandrinum," with 
 which most of the Roman basilicas 
 are paved (portions of a similar pave- 
 ment remain in Westminster Abbey 
 about the shrine of the Confessor). 
 Some of the zodiac signs may be 
 traced on it. This mosaic was im- 
 mediately in front of the shrine, 
 which stood eastward of it. An 
 indentation in the pavement run- 
 ning for some distance eastward on 
 either side, is thought to mark the 
 limit beyond which the ordinary 
 class of pilgrims was not allowed to 
 advance, and at which they knelt 
 whilst the marvels of the shrine 
 were pointed out by the prior. In 
 the roof above is fixed a crescent, 
 made of some foreign wood, which 
 has not been clearly accoimted for. 
 It probably refers to Beckefs title 
 of St. Thomas Acrensis, from the 
 hospital of S. Jolm at Acre. His 
 intercession was thought to- have 
 driven the Saracens from that for- 
 tress. A number of iron staples for- 
 merly existed near this crescent, and 
 perhaps supported a trophy of flag.s. 
 and spears. 
 
 On the morning after the mm-der.
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 8 . — Canterbury — Cathedral. 
 
 171 
 
 the body of Becket, for fear of tlie 
 knights, who threatened yet furtlier 
 to dishonour it, was hastily buried 
 at the east end of the ci-ypt. Here 
 it remained after his solemn canoni- 
 zation l)y the pope, Alexander II., 
 in 1173, and after the lire of 1174, 
 imtil the new choir and chapels had 
 for some time been completed, and 
 every thing was duly prepared for 
 its translation. This took place on 
 Tuesday, July 7th, 1220, after 2 
 years' notice circulated throughout 
 Europe, and before such an assem- 
 blage as had never beeu collected 
 in any part of England before. The 
 Abp., Stephen Laugton, with all the 
 monks of the convent, opened the 
 tomb in the vault the night before. 
 The next day, Pandulph the legate, 
 the archbishops of Rlieims and Can- 
 terbury, and Hubert de Burgli, grand 
 justiciary of England, carried on 
 their shoulders the chest containing 
 the bones up to the shrine prepared 
 for them behind the high altar. 
 Nearly all the bishops of the pro- 
 vince of Canterbury were present, 
 and the procession was led by the 
 yormgking, Henry III., then only 13. 
 Of the shi'ine itself, a drawing re- 
 mains among the Cottonian MSS., 
 and it is also represented in one of 
 the stained windows. It resembled 
 that of St. Cuthbert at Durham. 
 The altar of St. Thomas stood at 
 the head of it. The lower part was 
 of stone and on marble arches, 
 against which the sick and lame pil- 
 grims were allowed to rub them- 
 selves in hope of a cure. The mass 
 of worshippers did not pass beyond 
 the iron rails that surrounded it. 
 The shrine itself rested on the 
 marlile arches, and was covered by 
 a wooden canopy, which at a given 
 signal was drawn up, " and the shrine 
 then ajjpeared blazing with gold and 
 jewels ; the wooden sides were plated 
 with gold and damasked with gold 
 wire, and embossed with innumer- 
 able pearls and jewels and rings, 
 cramped together on this gold 
 
 I ground." (Stanley.) As all fell on 
 their knees, the prior came forward 
 and touched the several jewels with 
 a white wand, naming the giver of 
 each. One was supposed to be the 
 tinest in Europe. It was a great 
 carbuncle or diamond, as large as a 
 hen's egg, called " the Regale of 
 France," and presented by Louis VII. 
 of France, who, said the legend, 
 was somewhat miwilling to part with 
 so great a treasure ; but the stone 
 leapt from the ring in which he wore 
 it, and fastened itself firmly into 
 the shrine — a miracle against which 
 there was no striving. The stone 
 itself bm-nt at night like a fire, and 
 would suffice for a king's ransom. 
 Louis was the first French king 
 who ever set foot on English ground. 
 He had visited the tomb in the cvypt 
 inJ 17i;>, and being " very fearful of the 
 water," he obtained St. Thomas's 
 promise that neither he nor any other 
 person crossing from Dover to Whit- 
 sand or Calais should sufi'er ship- 
 wreck. Here also came Eichard 
 on his liberation from his Austrian 
 dungeon, walking from Sandwich to 
 give thanks to " God and St. Tho- 
 mas." Jolm followed him, and every 
 succeeding English king and their 
 great foreign visitors did repeated 
 homage at the upper shrine. Ed- 
 ward I. (1299) oftered here no less a 
 gift than the golden crown of Scot- 
 land. Henry V. was here on his re- 
 turn from Agincourt. Emanuel, the 
 Emperor of the East, paid Lis visit 
 to Canterbury in 1400 ; Sigismund, 
 Emperor of tiie West, in 1417. In 
 1520 Henry VIII. and the Emperor 
 Charles V. knelt here together. 
 " They rode together from Dover, 
 on the morning of Wliitsunday, and 
 entered the city through St. George's 
 gate. Under the same canopy were 
 seen both the youthful soven-igns; 
 Carchnal Wolsey was directly in 
 front; on the right and left were 
 the proud nobles of Spain and 
 England; tiie streets were lined with 
 clergy, all in full ecclesiastical cos-
 
 172 
 
 Eoute 8. — Canterbury — Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 tume. They lighted off" their horses 
 at the W. door of the cathedral ; 
 Warliam was there to receive them ; 
 together they said their devotions — 
 doubtless before the slirine." {Stan- 
 ley.) Myriads of pilgrims of all 
 coimtries and of all ranks thronged 
 year after year toward Canterbury, 
 " the holy blissfid martyr for to 
 seek," after the fashion of that im- 
 mortal company which sliines in the 
 pages of Chaucer with a glory more 
 lasting tlian that of the " great Re- 
 gale " itself; and churches were de- 
 dicated to him throughout everj' 
 part of Christendom, from Palestine 
 to Scotland. 
 
 The Vigil of the Translation, July 
 6, had always been kept as a solemn 
 fast in the English church until 1537, 
 when, a sign of greater changes to 
 come, Abp. Cranmer " ate flesh " on 
 the eve, and " did sup in his hall 
 with his family, which was never 
 seen before." In April, 1538 (such 
 at least was the story believed at 
 tlie time on the Continent), a sum- 
 mons was addressed in the name of 
 Henry VIII. "to thee, Thos. Becket, 
 sometime Abp. of Canterbury,"charg- 
 ing him with treason, contumacy, 
 and rebellion. It was read at the 
 shrine, and 30 days allowed for 
 Becket's aj^pearance ; as this did not 
 occur, the case was tried at West- 
 minster by the attorney-general for 
 Henry II., and by an advocate ap- 
 ])ointed by Henry VIII. for Becket. 
 Tlie first prevailed, and sentence was 
 pronounced tliat the archbishop's 
 bones should be burnt, and the of- 
 ferings forfeited to the Crown. In 
 September this sentence was carried 
 into effect. The bones were not 
 burnt, but buried, the jewels and 
 gold of the shrine were carried oil' 
 in 2 coffers on the shoulders of 7 
 or 8 men, and the remaining offer- 
 ings filled 26 carts. (The annual 
 offerings at the shrine, at the be- 
 ginning of tlie IGth cent., when 
 tlicy had much decreased in value, 
 averaged about 4000Z. of our money). 
 
 The " Regale " was long worn by 
 Henry in his thumb-ring. Finally, 
 an order api^eared that Becket was 
 no longer to be called a saint, but 
 "Bishop Becket;" that his images 
 throughout the realm were to be 
 pulled down, and his name razed 
 out of all books. This last injunc- 
 tion was rigidly carried out. " The 
 name of Geta lias not been more 
 carefully erased by his rival brother 
 on every monument of the Roman 
 empire." {Std/ileij.) At this time also 
 Becket's Cornish choughs were re- 
 moved from the arms of the city. 
 
 His flgm-e, however, was still 
 allowed to remain here and there in 
 stained windows, and fortunately 
 some of those which once entirely 
 surrounded Trinity Chapel were of 
 the number. The windows here and 
 in the Corona should be most care- 
 fully examined. They are of the 
 13tli cent., and perhaps the finest in 
 Europe, excelling in many respects 
 those of Bom'ges, Troyes, and 
 Cliartres, " and for excellence of 
 drawing, harmony of colouring and 
 purity of design are justly con- 
 sidered unequalled. The skill with 
 which tlie minute figures are re- 
 presented cannot even at this day 
 be suqjassed." Remark espe- 
 cially the great value given to the 
 brilliant colours by the profusion of 
 white and neutral tints. The scrolls 
 and borders surromiding the me- 
 dallions are also of extreme beauty. 
 The 3 windows remaining in the 
 Trin. Chapel are entirely devoted, 
 as were all the rest, to the miracles 
 of Becket, which commenced imme- 
 diately on the death of the great 
 martyr, to whom, as visions de- 
 clared, a place had been assigned 
 lietween the apostles and the mar- 
 tyrs, preceding even St. Stephen, who 
 had been killed by aliens, whilst 
 Thomas was killed by his own. 
 (Bened. de Mirac.) The miracles 
 represented in the medallions are of 
 various characters. The " Lucerna 
 Angliffi," a true St. Thomas of Kan-
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 8. — Canterhm-y — Cathedral. 
 
 V. 
 
 delherg as tlie Germans called him, 
 restores sight to the blind. Loss of 
 smell is recovered at the slu'ine of 
 this " Arbor Aromatica." Frequently 
 he assists sailors, the rude crews of 
 the Cinque Ports in his own imme- 
 diate neighbourhood. At the Nor- 
 way fishing, his figure came gliding 
 over the seas in the dusk, and de- 
 scended biu-ning like fire to aid the 
 imperilled ships of the Crusaders. 
 (Bened. — Hoveden.) In the window 
 toward the E., on the N. of the shrine, 
 is represented a remarkable series of 
 miracles occrn'ring in the household 
 of a knight named Jordan, son of 
 Eisidf, whose son is restored to life 
 by the water from St. Thomas's 
 Well, which, mixed with liis blood, 
 was always carried off by the pil- 
 gi-inis. The father vows an offering 
 to the martyi' before Mid-Lent. 
 This is neglected, the whole house- 
 hold again suffer, and the son dies 
 once more. The knight and his 
 wife, both sick, drag themselves to 
 Canterbmy, perform their vow, and 
 the son is finally restored. (Beiied.) 
 On a medallion in one of the win- 
 dows on the N. side is a representa- 
 tion of Becket's shrine, with the 
 martyr issuing from it in full ponti- 
 ficals to say mass at the altar. 
 This vision Benedict says was seen 
 by himself. 
 
 Between »the first 2 piers of the 
 Chapel, S. is the monument of 
 Edward the Black Prince, " the 
 most authentic memorial remain- 
 ing of the first of a long line of 
 English heroes." (Stanley.) He 
 had ali-eady founded a chantry in 
 the ci'j'pt, on the occasion of his 
 marriage with the "Fau* Maid of 
 Kent;" and his will, dated June 7, 
 1376, about a month before his death, 
 contains minute direction for this 
 monimient, and for his interment, 
 which he orders to be in the crypt. 
 For some unknown reason this was 
 disregarded, and he was l3m-ied above ; 
 his tomb being the first in what was 
 then thought to be the most sacred 
 
 [^Kent & Sussex.^ 
 
 spot in England. The effigy is in 
 brass, and was once entirely gilt. 
 (See it in this state at Sydenham.) 
 The Plantagenet featmes are trace- 
 able, " the fiat cheeks, and the well- 
 chiselled nose, as in the effigy of 
 his father at Westminster Alibey and 
 of his grandfather at Gloucester." 
 Above are suspended the brass 
 gauntlets, the "heaumedu leopard '" 
 — " that casque, which never stooped 
 except to time " — lined with leather, 
 " a i^roof of its being actually in- 
 tended for use ;" the sliield of wood, 
 covered with moulded leather, the 
 velvet sm'coat with the arms of 
 France and England, and the scab- 
 bard of the sword. The sword itself 
 Cromwell is said to have carried away. 
 Round the tomb are the ostrich 
 feathers with the mottos used by him 
 as his sigu'dtva-e—Houiaont (hocli 
 muth, high spirit), and Ich di.en. On 
 the canopy of the tomb is a represen- 
 tation of the Trinity, reverenced with 
 " pecidiar devotion " by the Prince, 
 and on whose feast he died. It is re- 
 markable from the absence of the 
 Dove usually introduced in similar 
 tablets. Eound the tomb are hooks 
 for the hangings bequeathed in his 
 will — black with red borders em- 
 broidered with " Cj'gues avec tetes 
 de dames." The Prince's will pro- 
 vided that liis body shoidd be met 
 at the W. gate of Canterbury by 
 2 chargers fully caparisoned and 
 mounted by 2 riders, one to represent 
 him as in war, the hero of Crecy 
 and Poictiers ; the other in black as 
 at tournaments. (See further in 
 Stanley's ' Hist. Mem.') 
 
 Immediately opposite, N., is the 
 tomb of Henry IV. and of his second 
 wife, Joan of Navarre. The king's 
 will ordered that he should be 
 buried " in the church at Canter- 
 bmy " (he had given much toward 
 the building of the new nave), and 
 his body was accordingly brought 
 by water to Faversham, thence by- 
 land to Canterljmy, and on the Trin. 
 Simday after his death (1-113) the
 
 174 
 
 Route 8. — Canterbury — Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 funeral took place in the presence 
 of Henry V., and all the " great no- 
 bility/' Joanna of Navarre died at 
 Havering, 1437 ; and the monument is 
 probably of her erection. The arms 
 are those of England and France, 
 Evreux and Navarre. The ground of 
 tlie canopy is diapered ■with the word 
 " soverayne" and eagles volant, the 
 king's motto and device, and with 
 ermines collared and chained, and 
 the word "atemperance," the queen's. 
 These are transposed, the ermines 
 being above the king's efiSgy. It was 
 asserted by the Yorkists that the 
 king's body had been thrown into 
 the sea, between Gravesend and 
 Barking. There had been a great 
 storm,-and, after this Jonah oii'ering, 
 a calm. " Whether the king was a 
 good man, God knows," said Clement 
 Maidstone's informant. (^Whartmis 
 Am/. Sacra., ii.) The coflSu was, 
 however, brought to Canterljury, and 
 solemnly interred. In consequence 
 of this story the tomb was opened in 
 1832, in tlie presence of the Dean of 
 Canterbiuy. Two coffins were found, 
 but that of the king could not be 
 removed without injury to the monu- 
 ment above. The upper part was 
 therefore sawed through, and after 
 removing a thick layer of hay, on 
 the surface of which lay a rude cross 
 of twigs, an inner case of lead was 
 discovered ; wliich being also sawed 
 through, the lower half of the head 
 of the body it contained was lui- 
 wrapped from its foldings ; " when, to 
 the astonishment of all present, the 
 face of the deceased king was seen 
 in complete preservation : the nose 
 elevated ; the beard thick and matted, 
 and of a deei^ russet colour ; and the 
 jaws perfect, with all the teetli in 
 them, except one fore-tooth which 
 had probably been lost during the 
 king's life." The whole was re- 
 placed after examination. 
 
 In the N. wall of Trin. Chapel, 
 beyond this tomb, is a small chantry 
 founded by Henry IV. " of twey 
 preistes for to sing and_ pray for my 
 
 soul." The fan vault is rich. At 
 the feet of the Black Prince lies 
 Ahp. Ccmrtenatj, the severe opponent 
 of theWickliffites (1396); why buried 
 in this most distinguished place does 
 not appear. He was, however, exe- 
 cutor to the Black Prince, and a 
 great benefactor to the cathedral. 
 E. of Henry IV. is a kneeling 
 figiu-e of Bean Wotton, by Bernini ; 
 the iirst Dean of Canterbury after 
 the foundation of the Collegiate 
 Church by Henry VIII. Beyond 
 Abp. Courtenay lies Odo Coligny, 
 Cardinal Castillion, who, on account 
 of his Huguenot tendencies, fled to 
 England in 15(38, and was favourably 
 received by Elizabeth. He died at 
 Canterbury, on his way to France, 
 poisoned by an apple given him by 
 one of his servants. 
 
 The great lightness and beauty of 
 the Corona, the extreme E. end of 
 the cathech'al, are remarkable. It 
 is English William's work. "When 
 Abp. Anselm was at Eome in the 
 early jiart of his episcopate, and 
 attending a coimcil in the Lateran, 
 a question arose as to his proper 
 place, since no Abp. of Canter- 
 bury had as yet been present at a 
 Eoman Council. Pojie Pascal II. 
 decided it by assigning to the " al- 
 terius orlus papa " a seat in the 
 Corona, the most honourable posi- 
 tion. (Eadmer. H. Novor.) It is 
 possible that this fact may have led 
 the architects, on the rebuilding of 
 the choir, to make this addition of 
 an eastern apse or Corona, which 
 did not exist in the earlier ch. In 
 it were the shrines of Abp. Odo and 
 Wilfred of York, and a golden re- 
 liquary in the form of a head, con- 
 taining some relic of Becket, per- 
 haps the severed scalp. On the N. 
 side is the tomb of Cardinal Pole, 
 son of the " Write Rose " who fell at 
 Pavia — Queen IMaiy's archbishop 
 (15.56-1558), and the last archbishop 
 bmied at Canterbury. His royal 
 blood gave him a title to so dis- 
 tinguished a place of sepultm-e.
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 8 . — Canterhury — Cathedral. 
 
 Ill 
 
 Descending the 8. aisle, of Trin. 
 Chapel, the first tomb against the 
 wall is an unknown one, in style 
 rather later than the completion of 
 the chapel itself. ( Willis.) It is 
 attributed to Ahp. Theobald (1138- 
 1160), but without reason. Still 
 passing W. down the pilgrim-worn 
 steps, we come to St. Anselnts Tower 
 and Chapel. The screen of the 
 chapel is formed by the tomli of Ahp. 
 Simon de Mepham { 1327-1333), " a 
 beautiful and singular work, con- 
 sisting of an altar-tomb placed be- 
 tween a double arcade." Tliis 
 archbishop was worried to death by 
 Granchson, Bp. of Exeter, who re- 
 sisted his visitation as Metropolitan, 
 and who, distrusting admonitory 
 letters or violet wrapped pampldets, 
 eflected a more complete Canterbury 
 settlement by encoimtering the arch- 
 bishop on the borders of Devon with 
 the posse comitatus. " This affront 
 did half break Mepham's heart," 
 says Fuller ; " and the pope, siding 
 with the bishop against him, broke 
 the other half thereof." He re- 
 tm-ned to Kent and died. 
 
 Anselnts Toiver is part of Prior 
 Ernulfs work, like St. Anch-ew's 
 opposite. The original S. window 
 was replaced by an elaborate Dec. of 
 five lights, by Prior Henry de Estria 
 in 1330. There were pendant bosses 
 in the heads of the lights, like those 
 of his choir screen door ; but these 
 have disappeared. At the E. end 
 was the altar of SS. Peter and 
 Paul, and behind it was buried 
 Anselm (1089-1109); of all the 
 archbishops, with the exception of 
 Becket, the most widely renovmed 
 throughout Europe. 
 
 Above the chapel is a small room, 
 with a window looking into the 
 chapel, which served as the " watcli- 
 ing chamber," in which a monk 
 was nightly stationed to keep ward 
 over the rich shrine of St. Thomas. 
 " On the occasion of fires the shrine 
 was additionally guarded by a troop 
 of fierce ban-dogs." The watching 
 
 chamber is said, but without au- 
 thority, to have been used as the 
 prison of King John of France. Be- 
 tween the first 2 piers of the choir, 
 W. of Anselm's Chapel, is the cano- 
 pied tomb of Ahp. Strafford (133.3- 
 1348)— Edward III.'s Grand Justi- 
 ciary during his absence in Flanders ; 
 and next to it, W., that of Simon de 
 Sudhury {137-l-liiSl), the archbishop 
 who built the W. gate and much ojf 
 the city walls ; who reproved the 
 " superstitious " pilgrimages to St. 
 Thomas, crowned Kichard II., and 
 was himself beheaded by the Kentish 
 rebels under Wat Tyler. " Not 
 many years ago, when tliis tomb was 
 accidentally opened, the body was 
 seen within, wrapi^ed in cerecloth, a 
 leaden ball occupying the vacant 
 space of the head." (Stanley.) In 
 commemoration of the benefits Sud- 
 biuy bestowed on the town, the 
 mayor and aldermen used to pay an 
 annual visit to his tomb, "to pray 
 for his soul." Below is the tomb 
 of AJjp. Kemp (1452-1454), sur- 
 mounted " by a most curious double 
 canopy or tester of woodwork." 
 
 The S.E. Transept, which we have 
 now reached, has the same archi- 
 tectural character as the N. — Wil- 
 liam of Sens' work on Ernulfs 
 walls, completed by English Wil- 
 liam. In the 2 apses were the altars 
 of St. John and St. Gregory, with 
 the tombs or shrines of 4 Saxon 
 archltishops. Below the easternmost 
 window in the S. wall are some in- 
 dications, in the broken pillars, of 
 the tomb of Ahp. Winchelseij (1292- 
 1313), whose contest with Edward I. 
 touching clerical subsiches, and 
 whose great almsgiving— 2000 loaves 
 every Sunday and Thiu-sday to the 
 poor when corn was dear, and 3000 
 when cheap — caused him to be re- 
 garded as a saint. 01)latious were 
 brought to his tomb, but the pope 
 would not consent to canonize him. 
 His tomb is said to have been de- 
 stroyed at the same time as Becket's 
 shrine. Close adjoining is now 
 K 2
 
 170 
 
 Route 8. — Canterhimj — Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 placed the Patriaychal Chair of 
 Purbeck marble called " St. Augus- 
 tine's Chair," and traditionally said 
 to be that in which the pagan kings 
 of Kent were euthroued, and which, 
 presented by Ethelbert to Augus- 
 tine, has ever since served as the 
 Metropolitical "Cathedra" of Can- 
 terbm-y. It is certainly of high an- 
 tiquity, but the old throne was of a 
 single stone — this is in 3 pieces — and 
 Purbeck stone was (it is said) un- 
 used until long after Augustine. 
 In this venerable chair the arch- 
 bishops are still enthroned, in per- 
 son or by jjroxy. 
 
 W. of the transept, against the S. 
 wall of the choir, is the mutilated effigy 
 of Abp. Hubert Walter (1193-1205), 
 who having accompanied Richard 
 Cceur de Lion and Abp. Baldwin to 
 the Holy Land, was, on the latter's 
 death, chosen archbishop in the 
 Crusaders' camp at Acre. The pa- 
 nelling below the tomb is much 
 later; beyond is Walter Eeyuolds 
 (1313-1327), the courtier archbishop 
 of Edward II., whom he deserted in 
 his adversity. 
 
 The steps leading down into the 
 S. transept, W., indicate the same 
 arrangement as that of the Martyr- 
 dom at the time of Becket's murder. 
 The transept itself is part of Chillen- 
 den's work. The stained glass of 
 the S. window should be noticed. 
 In the pavement, close at the foot of 
 the stairs descending from the tower, 
 is the tombstone of Merie Cusauhon, 
 Abp. Laud's prebendary, d. 1671 ; 
 adjoining is that of Shuckford of the 
 " Connection." 
 
 Ojiening E. from this transept is 
 8t. Micluiel's or the Warrior's Chapel. 
 The builder is unknown. It is Pei^i. 
 about 1370, with a " complex lierne 
 vault." In it are " siuidry fair monu- 
 ments." The central one is that 
 erected by Margai'ct Holland (d. 
 14.37) to the memory of her 2 
 husbands, John Beaufort Earl of 
 Bomerset, half brother of Henry IV. 
 (d. 1409;, 1., and Thomas of Cla- 
 
 rence, " qui fnit in bello clarus, nee 
 clarior uUus" — 2nd son of Henry IV., 
 killed by a lance-woimd m the face 
 at the battle of Beaugy, 1421, vt. At 
 the E. end, singularly placed, the 
 head alone appearing through the 
 wall, is the stone coffin of Stephen 
 Luiujton (1207-1228), the great Abp. 
 of John and Magna Charta, " whose 
 work still remains among us in 
 the familiar division of the Bible 
 into chapters.' WilUs suggests that 
 the tomb was outside when the 
 chapel was built, and that it was 
 arched over by the constructors. 
 The altar slab must have covered 
 the coffin, a position most unusual 
 imless for the remains of a distin- 
 guished saint. It was that chosen by 
 Charles V. for himself at Yuste, where 
 the Chm'ch would only allow his 
 wish to be carried out with consider- 
 able modification. But Laugton 
 was a marked man, and his memory 
 was greatly reverenced. The re- 
 maining monuments are of much 
 later date. My Lady Thornhursfs 
 (d. 1G09) mil and farthingale de- 
 servo notice. Her virtues, it would 
 seem, were not less remarkable — " Si 
 laudata Venus, Juno, si sacra Mi- 
 nerva, Quis te coUaudet, fajmina? 
 Talis eris." 
 
 Passing through the gallery under 
 the tower stairs, we return to the 
 Martyrdom Transept, and from it 
 enter the Crypt or Undercroft, the 
 same that existed under the choir of 
 Conrad. The walls near the transept 
 are ornamented by a curious diaper, 
 also found on a fragment of the Ro- 
 chester Chapterhouse, of which 
 place Ernulf, who constructed this 
 crypt, afterwards became bishop. 
 Canterbury is one of 5 English east- 
 ern crypts founded before 1085 ; the 
 others are Winchester, Gloucester, 
 Rochester, and Worcester. From 
 this time they ceased to be con- 
 structed excei^t as a continuation of 
 former ones. ( Willis.) The enrich- 
 ments on the capitals of the colmuns 
 are occasionally luifiuished, proving
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 8. — Canterhury — - Cathedral. 
 
 ] 
 
 i I 
 
 that they were worked after being set 
 in i3hice. On one, at the S.W. side, 2 
 sides of the block are phiin ; the tliird 
 lias the ornament ronghed out, and 
 the fom-tli is completely finished. 
 Some of the shafts also are rudely 
 fluted, whilst others are untouched. 
 In the roof are rings, each surrounded 
 by a crowir of thorns, from which 
 lamps were suspended. 
 
 The whole crj-jit was dedicated to 
 the Virgin, and toward the E. end is 
 the Chapel of Our Lady Undercroft, 
 enclosed by late Perp. open stone- 
 work. It was, says Erasmus, siu-- 
 rounded by a double rail of iron — 
 "Quid metuit Virgo? nihil opinor 
 nisi fures." In beauty the shrine 
 exceeded that of Walsingham ; its 
 wealth was indescribable. Only 
 a very few " magnates" were per- 
 mitted to see it. The niche over the 
 altar for the figure still remains ; the 
 bracket has a carving of the Annim- 
 ciation. In the centre of the pave- 
 ment is the gravestone of the Car- 
 dinal Abp. Morto7i (1486-1500). 
 Faithful throughout to Henry VI. 
 he effected the union of the two 
 Roses by the marriage of Hemy of 
 Richmond to Elizabeth of York. 
 His monument is at the S.W. corner, 
 much defaced by Blue Dick. The 
 Mart or hawk on a tun is the arch- 
 bishop's rebus. 
 
 In the S. screen of the Lady 
 Chapel is the monument of Lady 
 Mohun of Dunster (about 1895) ; a 
 perpetual chantry was founded by her. 
 
 The whole of the crypt was given 
 up by Elizabeth in 1561 to the 
 French and Flemish refugees — 
 " they whom the rod of Alva bruised" 
 — who fled to England, then as now 
 the asylum of Europe, in great 
 numbers. (See Sandwich, Rte. 10.) 
 A company of clothiers and silk- 
 weavers (" gentle and profitable 
 strangers " as Alip. Parker called 
 them) estal)lislied themselves at 
 Canterbury, where their numbers 
 rapidly increased : they were about 
 500 in 1676. They had their own 
 
 pastors and services, with which Abp. 
 Laud attempted to interfere ; but his 
 attention was directed elsewhere by 
 the breaking out of the Scottish 
 war. The main body of the crypt was 
 occupied by their silk-looms, and 
 the numerous French inscriptions 
 on the roof are due to tliis congre- 
 gation, which still continues to exist, 
 although their silk trade has long 
 since disappeared. The S. side 
 aisle was separated for their place of 
 worship, where they still regularly 
 assemble. The long table is that at 
 which they sit to receive the sacra- 
 ment. 
 
 Forming the entrance to the 
 French Church, E. is the chantry 
 founded by the Black Prince on his 
 marriage in 1363. On the vaulting 
 are his arms, those of Edward III. 
 and what seems to be the face of his 
 wife, the " Fair Maid." For per- 
 mission to foimd this chantry he 
 left to the cathedral the manor of 
 " Fauke's hall " (Vanxhall), still 
 the property of the Chapter. Still 
 further E. is St. John's Chapel, di- 
 vided into two by a stone wall, the 
 imier part being quite dark. On the 
 roof are some interesting tempera 
 paintings, figured in Dart. Pugin 
 conjectured with great probability 
 that this dark chapel was a contri- 
 vance for hiding the principal trea- 
 sures of the ch. in case of need. 
 Beyond it is the tomb of Isabel 
 Countess of Athol (1292), heiress of 
 Chilham. 
 
 The eastern part of the cryjit, 
 under Trinity Chapel and Bccket's 
 crown, is the workof English William, 
 and difiers greatly from the somljre 
 gloom of Ernulf's btulding. "The 
 work from its position and ofHce is 
 of a massive and bold character, but 
 its unusual loftiness prevents it from 
 assuming the character of a crypt.' 
 ( Willis.) The windows have been re- 
 cently opened and its beauties made 
 more apparent. The abacuses of 
 the piers are round, a peculiarity 
 which distinguishes English Wil-
 
 178 
 
 Eoute 8 . — Conterh ury — Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. T. 
 
 liam's -worlv from that of William of 
 Sens. This part of the erji^t was 
 long assigned to the first canon for 
 a wine and wood cellar. In the 
 earlier cr\i:)t, which existed here 
 hefore the rebuilding, and which, 
 althongh not so lofty, must have 
 resembled this in arrangement, 
 Becket was laid in a marble sarco- 
 phagus the <lay after the murder. A 
 wall was built about it, in each end 
 of which were 2 windows, so that 
 pilgrims might look in, and kiss the 
 tomb itself. The tomb was covered 
 with tapers, the offerings of pilgrims, 
 and hung round with waxen legs, 
 arms, &c.- — such votive memorials 
 as may still be seen about great con- 
 tinental shrines {Benedict). Here 
 Becket remained until removed to 
 the upper church in 1220. In 
 this earlier vault took place one of 
 the most remarkable scenes of the 
 middle ages, — the penance of Hemy 
 II.,^who 2 years after the miuder, 
 when all seemed darkening romid 
 him, determined to make a fm-ther 
 attempt at propitiating the saint. 
 Living on bread and water from the 
 time of his arrival at Southampton, 
 he walked barefoot through Can- 
 terlniry from St. Dmistan's Chm-eli 
 to the cathedral, where, after kneeling 
 in the Martyrdom transept, he was 
 led into the cryj^t. There, removing 
 his cloak and having placed his 
 head within one of the openings of 
 the tomb, he received 5 sti'okes 
 from the "balai," or monastic rod of 
 each bishoii and abbot who was 
 present, and 3 from each of the 80 
 monks. He passed the whole night 
 in the cryjit, fasting, and resting 
 against one of the pillars, and finally 
 dejiarted, fully absolved. That very 
 day the Scottish king, William the 
 Lion, was taken prisoner at Rich- 
 mond, and comiecting his capture 
 with the power of the martyr, he 
 founded, on his retmii to Scotland, 
 the Abliey of Aberbrothiek, to the 
 memory of St. Thomas of Canter- 
 bury. 
 
 We may now retiu-n to the ex- 
 terior of the cathedral. Of the 2 
 W. towers, that N. is modern, and 
 was finished in 1840, under the su- 
 perintendence of the late G. Austin, 
 Esq. In digging the foundations, 
 skeletons of oxen are said to have 
 been found at a very great depth. The 
 soil is a deep gravel. The tower 
 tlien taken down was Norm, and 
 called the " Arundel Steeple," from a 
 ring of 5 bells placed in it by that 
 archbishop. The S., or " Dunstan 
 Steeple," is the work of Abp. 
 Chicheley and Prior Goldstone. 
 
 The great central tower, called 
 "Bell Harry," from a small bell 
 hmig at the top of it, is entirely due 
 to Prior Goldstone 11. (1495-1517.) 
 It replaced that called the " Angel 
 Steeple," from the figiu-e of a gilt 
 angel crowning it ; tlie first object 
 that caught the eye of pilgrims ad- 
 vancing to Canterbm-j^ The height 
 of the present tower, one of the 
 most beautiful examples of Perp. 
 work existing, is 235 ft. The ex- 
 terior arcades of the chapels east- 
 ward, indicate the works of Ernulf 
 and Anselm, all of which has al- 
 ready been pointed out from within. 
 
 Throughout, it must be remem- 
 bered, all the iwecincts exhibit traces 
 or remains of the great Benedictine 
 monasteiy founded by Augustine 
 and confirmed by Lanfranc. 
 
 The early abps. lived in common 
 with the monks. Lanfranc's rule 
 first gave them a irrior, and the 
 abps. from this time were more 
 separated, although they still con- 
 tinued the nominal heads of the 
 convent, and the monks long insisted 
 that the abp. should always be a 
 Benedictine. The priors had the 
 right of wearing the mitre, and of car- 
 rying the episcopal staff ; they were 
 personages of great importance, and 
 for the most part discharged their 
 duties well. The monastery, at the 
 dissolution, does not seem to have 
 been in a very debased condition. 
 
 The Norm, doorway, now built into
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 8. — Canterbury — Cathedral. 
 
 179 
 
 the in'ecinct wall E. of the choir, 
 formerly admitted from the exterior 
 to the interior or convent cemetery, 
 into which two portions the S. pre- 
 cincts, now occupied by canons' 
 houses, was mainly divided. The 
 part now called " The Oaks, " rumiing 
 S. beyond the choir, was the mo- 
 nastery garden. Somewhere here 
 too was the ancient school on the 
 site of that founded by Abp. Theodore 
 for the study of Greek, and on which 
 he bestowed many Greek books, in- 
 cluding a copy of Homer, — thus 
 marking Canterbury as the earliest 
 place of Greek study in England. 
 
 A narrow flagged passage leading 
 round the catheth-al, opens to the 
 Prior s or Green Court. In this 
 passage, the first house 1., adjoining 
 the archway, formed part of the 
 "Honours" or "Maister Honom-s," 
 a set of state chambers belonging 
 to the prior, and used on occasions of 
 special dignity ; pilgrims of high rank 
 were lodged here. Beyond these 
 nmning W. was the Infiruuiry with 
 its Cliurrh, the arches of which may 
 be traced in the walls of the houses 
 1. A door from the infirmary opened 
 into the convent garden conveniently 
 for the sick monks. 
 
 Somewhere on the N. side of the 
 choir was the famous ivell of St. 
 Tliomas, of which no trace is now 
 visible. The dust and blood from the 
 pavement after the murder is said 
 to have been thrown into it. The 
 spring changed four times into 
 blood, and once into milk ; and con- 
 stant miracles were wrought by the 
 water. This mai-vel did not appear, 
 however, until the beginning of the 
 14th cent., and is vmknowu by the 
 earlier chroniclers. {Stanley, H. 31., 
 185.) From its I'ecorded effects it 
 seems to have been slightly chaly- 
 beate, like the well of Zem-Zem at 
 Mecca. 
 
 Beyond the infirmary is the " Dark 
 Entrj'," leading on one side into the 
 cloisters, on the other into the 
 Green Court. The passage has of 
 
 late years been uncovered, and the 
 arches oi^cned, thereby exorcising 
 the ghost of " Nell Cook,'' touching 
 whom the cmious may refer to the 
 ' Ingoldsby Legends.' The Norm. 
 I^ortions of this entry seem to have 
 been the work of Prior Wibert (d. 
 11G7), who certainly built the curious 
 bell-shaped tower in the garden 
 without, adjoining the cloisters. 
 This building (the " Castellum 
 Aquas") formed a part of the com- 
 plicated system for supplying the 
 monks with water, which was 
 brought into it from the fields with- 
 out at some distance, and distributed 
 in pipes all over the monastery. It 
 is now called " The Baptistery, ' and 
 the upper part contains the marble 
 font, given by Bp. Warner, removed 
 here from the cathecbal nave. 
 
 A staircase (rt., going towards the 
 Green Court) leads to the CJiapter 
 Library. This was at first the Prior's 
 Chapel, then the Dean's, until it was 
 applied to its present purpose. It 
 contains a good collection of books, 
 made accessible with great liberality. 
 There is a case of Bibles and Prayer- 
 books of veiy high interest. The 
 most remarkable MS. is the Charter 
 of Edward granting Reculver to the 
 Monastery : (see Kte. 9). This is 
 in all probability an autograph of 
 Dunstan. At the end of the room 
 hangs an ancient painting on wood 
 (perhaps temp. Kich. II.), represent- 
 ing Queen Edgiva. The lines be- 
 neath commemorate her virtues, and 
 her gift, to the convent, of " Monkton 
 and Minster, monkes to feede." 
 
 Again descending, a gate, 1., leads 
 into the Cloisters, generally visited 
 from the IVIiirtyrdom Transept, but 
 better described in this place. They 
 are late Perij., but here and there 
 show Norm, and other portions, 
 indicating that the ancient site is 
 preserved. A door still existing on 
 the "W. side, opened to the arch- 
 bishop's palace, and marks the posi- 
 tion of that through which Becket 
 passed on his way to the cathedral.
 
 180 
 
 Route 8. — Canterlwy — Deanery. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Tlie-use of the circular opening at 1 
 the side is uncertain. The arched 
 door on the N. side of the cloister 
 — where are still traces of a laver 
 vrith a double cistern, for the ablu- 
 tions of the monks — led into the 
 refectory. The cloister windows 
 were glazed and the walls painted 
 with " Carols " and texts by Prior 
 Selling, d. 1494. The shields on the 
 roof are those of benefactors. The 
 central space is said to have served 
 for the herb-garden of the convent. 
 On the E. side is the Clmpterlumse, 
 the work of Abp. Arundel (1472- 
 1492 ). Its roof, of Irish oak, is very 
 rich and curious. At the upper end 
 are seats for the prior and great 
 officers. The stone bench round 
 the walls was for the monks. The 
 scom-ging of Henry II., which is 
 said to have taken place here, was 
 really inflicted in the crypt. After 
 the reformation it was used for 
 preaching, and thence acquired the 
 name of "The Sermon House." 
 Traces may still be seen of the 
 arr.mgements for galleries. 
 
 Keturningthroughthe Dark Entry, 
 we may enter the Grep,n Court, for- 
 merly surrounded by the principal 
 domestic buildings of the monastei7. 
 The arch and mins adjoining the 
 entry were portions of " I^a Glo- 
 riette," the prior's ordinary apart- 
 ments, built by Prior Hathbrande, 
 about 1.370. 
 
 The present Deanery (E. side of 
 court) was also comprised in the 
 prior's lodgings, and contained the 
 great stone hall, called " Mensa Ma- 
 gir^tri." In the deanery are por- 
 traits of the deans of Canterbiuy, 
 from Dr. Wotton, the first after the 
 dissolution. The ruins now remain- 
 ing on the S. side, are mainly those 
 of" the dormitory and connected 
 buildings. The refectoiy or "Fra- 
 tery " was here, with kitchens and 
 cellarer's lodgings attached. 
 
 On the W. side is the Porters Gate, 
 the most ancient now remaining, 
 tiiiough which provisions and ne- 
 
 cessaries of all kinds were brought 
 into the convent. Its late Norm, 
 ornamentation is curious. Beyond 
 the gate is the present Grammar 
 School. 
 
 The Norm, staircase leading up to 
 the hall, is the only construction of 
 the sort known to be in existence. 
 The work is late Norm., although 
 the pillars resemble those with plain 
 capitals in the ciypt. The hall 
 above was rebuilt in 1855. It takes 
 the place of that called the north or 
 "Hog-hall," not "as some say, from 
 the dressing of hogs in the under- 
 croft of it," but from its size and 
 height Qiorp, hoch). It seems to 
 have anciently served for the 
 stewards of the monasteiy courts. 
 
 In the com-t which is entered 
 through the arches under the hall 
 was the Almonrn of the priory. At 
 the dissolution Heniy VIII. retained 
 these buildings in his own hands, 
 and converted some portions of them 
 into a mint. In the remainder he 
 established the King's or grammar 
 school, for 50 scholars. It maintains 
 a very high reputation. Among its 
 distinguished scholars were Marlowe 
 the dramatist — a native of Caiiter- 
 bm-y (see Dyce's Marlowe, vol. i.) — 
 and Lord Chief Justice Tenterden, 
 who declared " that to the free school 
 of Canterbury he owed, under the 
 Divine blessing, the first and best 
 means of his elevation in life." An 
 interesting anecdote of Lord Tenter- 
 den has been recorded by Mr. Mac- 
 ready, to whom a verger pointed 
 out where a little barber s shop used 
 to stand, opposite tiie W. front of the 
 cathedral, and said, " The last time 
 Lord Tenterden came down here he 
 brought his son Charles with him, 
 and it was my duty, of course, to 
 attend tliem over the cathedral. 
 When we came to this side of it, he 
 hnl his son up to tliis very spot and 
 said to him, 'Charles, you see this 
 little shop ; I have brought you here 
 on purpose to show it to you. In that 
 shop your grandfather used to shave
 
 Kent. Ihate 8. — Canterlnnj — ArchlisJwp's Palace. 
 
 181 
 
 for a penny ! That is tlie proudest 
 reflection of my life ! WJiile j'ou live 
 never forget that, my dear Charles.' " 
 {Ld. Campbell.) 
 
 We jDass out of the precincts 
 by the porter's gate into Palace 
 Street, where an arched doorway is 
 nearly all that now remains of the 
 ArrJihisliop's Palace. The ruined 
 Saxon palace here was rebuilt by 
 Lanfranc. In this Norm, building 
 the scenes took place between Becket 
 and the knights before he entered 
 the cathedral. The great hall, 
 famous for its entertainments, was 
 begun by Abp. Hubert Walter, and 
 finished by Stephen Langton. On 
 the marriage of Edward I. with 
 Margaret of France there were 4 days 
 of feasting here. In 1514 Warham 
 entertained CharlesV., Queen Joanna 
 of Arragon, Heniy VIII., and Queen 
 Catherine ; on which occasion there 
 was a "solenine damicing" in the 
 great hall. In 1573 Parker feasted 
 Queen Elizabeth here ; but the 
 greatest festivities recorded took 
 place at the entlu-onization of War- 
 ham in 1504. On this occasion, the 
 " subtylties " wliich appeared be- 
 tween each course must have tried 
 monastic invention to the utmost. 
 The archbishop's table was graced 
 with " Our Lady and the King pre- 
 senting Warham, in his habit as 
 Master of the Rolls, unto St. Paid, 
 sitting in a tower between St. Peter 
 and St. Thomas k Becket, ' who re- 
 ceive him with "benigne counte- 
 nances.' There were otlier devices 
 exhibiting doctors in grey amices at 
 their desks, " well garnished with 
 angels." All were sujjplied with such 
 mottoes as induce us to hope tliat the 
 cooks were more skilful than the 
 poets. The archbishop was served by 
 his high steward, the Didce of Buck- 
 ingham, who entered the hall on 
 horseback. He had his own table, 
 decorated with " subtylties "' of a 
 more worldly cast ; whilst tlie breth- 
 reti feasted on salmon and lampreys. 
 The high steward had the right, 
 
 after tlie cnihronization, of stoijping 
 with liis train for 3 days at one of 
 the archbishoij's nearest manors, to 
 be bled — " ad minuendam sangui- 
 neni " — a proof of IJie consequences 
 expected to result from the outpour- 
 ing of yppocrasse and clarye. The 
 palace was pillaged, and fell into 
 a rained state imder the Puritan 
 nde, and on the Restoration an act 
 was passed, dispensing the arch- 
 bishops from restoring it. From 
 this time they have had no ofEcial 
 residence in Canterliury. , 
 
 After the cathedral, the great ob- 
 ject of interest is St. Amjnst/ne's 
 College. Its ancient history must be 
 told before coming to the present 
 foundation. 
 
 Outside the Roman city, and ad- 
 joining the road to Rutupia?, was a 
 building in which Etlielbert had been 
 accustomed to worship the Saxon 
 deities. This, after his conversion, he 
 made over to Augustine, who conse- 
 crated it as the church oi' St. Pancras, 
 the patron saint of chikh-en, and now 
 probably chosen with a reference to 
 the 3 English children whose pre- 
 sence in the Roman forum had led 
 to the conversion of their country. 
 Close adjoining this ch., on ground 
 also granted by Ethell^ert, Augus- 
 tine built the Benedictine monastery 
 of Ss. Peter and Paul, called after 
 the two apostles of the city of Rome, 
 from which Augustine and his com- 
 panions had come. It was after- 
 wards dedicated by Dunstan, in 978, 
 to these 2 saints and to Augustine, 
 by whose name it was henceforth 
 chiefly known. Its original fomida- 
 tion without the walls was owing to 
 the wish of Augustine to provide a 
 spot of consecrated ground for the 
 interment of himself and successors ; 
 " Ne intra muros sepelito "' being the 
 rule of Roman and of Saxon Britain 
 as well as of Rome itself. Augus- 
 tine and Ethelbert, with many of 
 their successors, were Inu'ied here, 
 and the Roman road to Rutupiaj 
 thus became the English Appiau 
 K. 3
 
 182 Route 8. — Canterhuri/ — St. Augustine's College. Sect. I. 
 
 way. The A. S. kings vied with 
 each other in bestowing lands and 
 gifts upon this great monastery. 
 The abbot's place in the general 
 Benedictine Conncil was next to that 
 of the abbot of Monte Casino, the 
 head of the order. When he was to 
 be consecrated, the abp. himself came 
 to the abbey ch. for the pm-pose. 
 The abbot had, before the Conquest, 
 the right of minting and coinage, 
 and, at the dissolution, jiirisdiction 
 over a whole lathe of 13 hundreds. 
 
 In the matter of feasting, the ab- 
 bots of St. Augustine vied with the 
 neighbouring priors of Ch. Ch., and 
 great is the recorded consumption of 
 " swannys " and " suckmg piggis " 
 which took place in the great hall 
 on " superior occasions." The city 
 occasionally contributed its share, 
 and in 1520 paid 2s. for " ij turbottes 
 given to my L. abbot of S. Austieyns 
 at his coming home from Eome." 
 
 The abbey was stripped of its lead, 
 and became greatly ruined immedi- 
 ately after the dissolution. 
 
 Of the Church, which had been 
 several times injured l)y tire and by 
 flood, there now only remain some 
 wall fragments of late Norm, cha- 
 racter. "At the "W. end stood Ethel- 
 bert's Toiver, erected about 1047, and 
 taken down at the beginning of the 
 present cent. (See GostUurfs Walk 
 for views of it.) Somner suggests 
 that it was a campanile, and called 
 from a bell named Ethelbert. The 
 arrangements of the high altar, with 
 the shrines of the first archbishops 
 surrounding it, are figiu-ed by Som- 
 ner from a MS. in Trin. Col. Cam- 
 bridge. The shrine of King Ethel- 
 bert was above the altar, and on each 
 side "books sent by Gregory to 
 Augustine," probably the 2 MS. 
 Gospels still preserved in the Bod- 
 leian and in Corpus Christi Col. Cam- 
 bridge, " the most ancient books that 
 ever were read in England." {Stan- 
 ley, H. M. 23.) Before the Beckct 
 murder this ch., as that of the 
 
 patron saint, was regarded as a 
 more sacred and important edifice 
 than the cathedral, and was, more- 
 over, venerated .as the burial-place 
 of the earlier archbishops and kings 
 of Kent ; but the glory of Becket s 
 shrine speedily eclipsed it. 
 
 S. of the ch. adjoining its ancient 
 cemetery, are the remains of St. Pun- 
 eras chapel. The arch of Roman 
 brick may perhaps have formed a 
 portion of the primitive building. 
 In the wall are shown the marks of 
 the "demon's claws," who, having 
 rilled supreme in the building before 
 Augustine's coming, attempted to 
 shake it down when he heard the 
 first mass in it. They are " ivy 
 marks," says Somner. Besides these 
 ruins, the entrance-gate, the ceme- 
 tery-gate, and the present refectoiy, 
 are the only remains of the original 
 monaster}'. The refectory was per- 
 haps the ancient Guests' Hall ; its 
 open roof is unchanged. Tlie En- 
 trance Gate was built by Abbot Fyn- 
 don in 1300 ; the massive oaken doors 
 are perhaps (?) of the same date. It 
 was eml)attled by royal licence soon 
 after. The roof connnands a view 
 over the city, embracing every point 
 of interest. Eemark the curious 
 framing of St. Martin's Clim-ch be- 
 tween 2 of the embrasures. This 
 gate has been frequently copied with 
 and without propriety. The IMar- 
 quis of Hastings introduced it in 
 the centre of the fa§ade of Donning- 
 ton castle, and the Marquis of West- 
 minster as a lodge at Eaton. 
 
 Tlie Cemetery Gate, which is be- 
 yond the present college, toward 
 Burgate, was built b}^ Ickman,the sa- 
 crist, in 1309, at a cost of 4(36Z. 13s. id. 
 
 After the dissolution, the habit- 
 able buildings were converted into 
 a royal palace, though the ground 
 still remained covered with ruins. 
 Mary granted this palace to Cardi- 
 nal Pole for his life. Elizabeth 
 held her court in it for some days ; 
 Charles I. returned here with Hen- 
 rietta Maria, after their first meeting
 
 IvEXT. Route 8. — Caiiterluri/ — St. Aiigustines College. 
 
 isr 
 
 tit Dover. At supper he carved for 
 her with his own royal hand " a 
 pheasant and some venison ;"' and 
 the great room over the gateway 
 is traditionally pointed out as that 
 in which the ominous marriage 
 was consuimnated. It was then 
 granted to Thomas Lord Wotton, of 
 Marley, whose family long continued 
 to reside here, and entertained 
 Charles II. when he passed through 
 Canterbury after the Restoration. 
 The buildings were subsequently 
 known as Lady Wotton's palace, and 
 the open space before the gateway is 
 still called " Lady Wotton's Green." 
 They at last sank into complete 
 ruin. Over the gate was a cockpit. 
 There was a tives-com-t in the cha- 
 pel, and the great court became a 
 bowling-green. 
 
 Tlie abbey had been converted 
 into a brewery, when it was pur- 
 chased in 1844 by A. J. Beresford 
 Hope, Esq., and devoted Ijy him to 
 its present puqiose, that of a Mission- 
 ary College, " intended to carry far 
 and wide, to countries of which Gre- 
 gory and Augustine never heard, 
 the blessings whicli they gave to 
 us." (Stanley.) It " provides an 
 education to qualify young men for 
 the service of the ch. in the dis- 
 tant dependencies of the British 
 empire, with such strict regard to 
 economy and frugality of hal)it, as 
 maj- fit them for the special duties 
 to be discharged, the difficulties to 
 be encountered, and the hardships 
 to be endm-ed." (Charter of Incor- 
 poration.') A full account of its ob- 
 jects, arrangements, and studies, will 
 be found in the ' Calendar of 8t. 
 Augustine's College,' published an- 
 nually. 
 
 The college consists of warden, 
 subwarden, and six fellows. The 
 endowment, only partially provided 
 as yet, has been raised from free 
 contributions. Exhibitions have been 
 founded in the college by ditferent 
 benefactors. (Donations are received 
 by Messrs. Child, Temple Bar, Lou- 
 
 don, and Messrs. Hammond, Can- 
 terbury.) 
 
 There is at present accommoda- 
 tion for 45 students, who may lie of 
 any nation and rank in life. 1'lie 
 annual collegiate charge for educa- 
 tion and maiuteuance of each is oHL 
 The studies are to some extent 
 varied according to the pupil's desti- 
 nation, and there are classes of 
 printers, carpenters, and gardeners. 
 
 The building was erected from de- 
 signs bv Mr. Butterfield, and com- 
 pleted in 1S4S, 810 years after the 
 dissolution of the earlier foundation. 
 It is full of beauty ; " No motley col- 
 lection of ill-assorted plagiarisms, 
 but a positive creation, a real thing, 
 which may be said to be like no- 
 thing else, and yet like evei-ytbing 
 else, in Christian art." (Bj). of Fre- 
 derieton.) 
 
 Fronting the main entrance is the 
 Library, containing a valuable col- 
 lection of missionaiy books, the 
 Oriental collection of Dr. Mill, pre- 
 sented l\v Mr. Hope, and perhaps 
 the very finest set of the Fathers ex- 
 isting. The portrait of Bp. Heber 
 here was painted for the King of 
 Oudc, but passed into the hands of 
 Dr. Mill. 
 
 The picturesque cij\}i beneath the 
 library is used by the carijenters ; 
 opposite are the refectory (with its 
 ancient roof) and the chapel, on the 
 site of the ancient guests' chapel, con- 
 taining some of Willement's stained 
 glass. On the N. side of the quad- 
 rangle are the cloisters, with students' 
 rooms above them. The S. side is 
 still open, and shows the ruins of 
 the abbey ch. The oak fittings of 
 the library and students' gallery are 
 specially worth notice. Each student 
 has his sitting-room and bed-room. 
 
 From St. Augustine's, with his 
 mind filled with its impressions and 
 associations, the visitor may fitly 
 proceed by the Longport Boad, the 
 first manor granted to St. Augustine's 
 by Ethelbert, to St. Martin's Church 
 on the hill above, the " Motlier
 
 1-84 Route S.—Canterhurij—Sf. Martin's Church. Sect. I. 
 
 Church of England, as Canterbury is 
 the Mother Cathedral." It had been 
 a British Christian chapel before the 
 arrival of the Saxons, and had been 
 given up for the use of Bertha, the 
 Christian -wife of Ethelbert, and of 
 lier French bishop, Liudluird. St. 
 Martin of Tours was then the most 
 famous saint of France, and the 
 name was probably given by Bertha. 
 This chapel of St.Martin must have 
 been the iirst object that caught the 
 view of Augustine and the mission- 
 aries as they advanced from Rich- 
 boroTigh to Canterbury, along the 
 Roman road that crossed St. Mar- 
 tin's Hill. " And then, in the valley 
 below, on the banks of the river, 
 appeared the city — the rude wooden 
 city as it then was — emVjosomed in 
 tiiickets. As- soon as they saw it 
 they formed themselves into a long 
 procession ; they lifted up again tlie 
 tall silver cross, and tlie rude 
 painted board" (see Thcmet,Jite. 9) ; 
 " there were with them the choris- 
 ters whom Augustine had brought 
 from Gregory's school on the Ca3lian 
 hill, trained in the chants which 
 were called after his name, and tliey 
 sang one of those litanies which 
 Gregory had Introduced for the 
 plague at Rome. . ' "We beseech 
 tliee, O Lord, in all thy mercy, that 
 thy wrath and thine anger may be 
 removed from this city, and from 
 tliy lioly house. Alleluia.' Doubt- 
 less, as they uttered tliat last word, 
 tiiey must have remembered that 
 they were thus fulfilling to the letter 
 the very wish that Gregory had ex- 
 pressed when he fir.st saw the Saxon 
 children in the market-place at 
 Rome. And thus they came down 
 St. Martins Hill, and entered Can- 
 terbury." (StanUy.) Tlie Chapel 
 of St. Martin was now made over to 
 Augustine ; and in it Ethelbert is 
 said to have been baptized — " except 
 the conversion of Clovis, the most 
 important baptism that tlie world 
 had seen since that of Constantine." 
 Suflfi-agan bishops of St. Martin's 
 
 were occasionally appointed during 
 the Saxon period. 
 
 The present ch. no doubt occupies 
 the site of Augustine's, and por- 
 tions of the walls may be identical. 
 Throughout them, Roman bricks are 
 introduced, on some of which frag- 
 ments of the original Roman mortar, 
 partly composed of pounded brick, 
 are foimd adhering. The chancel 
 windows are E. E. : on the N. side, 
 on a brass within the arch of an 
 Easter Sep. (?) is this inscription : 
 " Si qua ppe hie alieubi positte jacent 
 reliquiiB Berthfe, regis Ethelberti 
 conjugis, in posti-emum Domini Jesu 
 adventmnpace requiescant." Bertha 
 was really buried in St. Martin's 
 ChrqKl, within St. Augustine's Ab- 
 bey. 
 
 In the modern stained glass win- 
 dows are memorials of the church's 
 early liistory. St. Rlartin dividing 
 his cloak, Bp. Liudhard, Gregory the 
 Great, and the children in the mar- 
 ket-place, "Non Angli, sedAngeli." 
 The font large, and certainly Norm., 
 is traditionally said to be that in 
 which Ethelbert was baptized. 
 Although of a later date "it is so 
 like that which appears in the re- 
 presentation of the event in the seal 
 of St. Augustine's Abbey, and is in 
 itself so remarkable that we may 
 perhaps fairly regard it as a monu- 
 ment of the eveiit ; and in the same 
 manner as the large porphyry basin 
 of the Latcran commemorates the 
 baptism of Constantine." {Stanley.) 
 The ch., wliich had fallen into a sad 
 condition, is almost entirely indebted 
 for its present order and beauty to 
 the Hon. Daniel Finch, auditor of 
 the cathecb-al, one of whose ances- 
 tors (temp. Chas. I.) is inten-ed in 
 it. In the chra-chyard Byzantine and 
 Merovingian looped coins, regarded 
 by the antiquary as amulets, have 
 been found. 
 
 The visitor should make a point 
 of attending the service here. In 
 no ch. throughout England has the 
 Creed a more solemn sound or sig-
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 8. — Canterhuri/ — Dane John — Castle. 
 
 18i 
 
 nificance. And passing beyond the 
 cliurcliyard gate, be sbonld dimb 
 the bill behind it, commanding one 
 of the best views of Canterljury, " the 
 first English Christian city," with 
 the great cathedi-al towering in the 
 centre, and St. Angustine's close 
 below. " From the Christianity here 
 established, has flowed by direct 
 consequence, first, the Christianity 
 of Germany, then, after a long in- 
 terval, of Nortli America, and lastly, 
 we may trust in time, of all India 
 and all Australasia. The view from 
 St. Mai-tin's Hill is indeed one of 
 the most inspiriting that can be 
 found in the world ; there is none to 
 which I would more willingly take 
 any one, who doubted whether a 
 small lieginning could lead to a 
 great and lasting good, none which 
 carries us more vividly back into the 
 past, or more hopefully forward to 
 the future." (Stanley.) 
 
 Turning off opposite the County 
 Hospital, we maj' pass through 
 Chantry Lane to the Dane John, 
 with a glance at the site of St. 
 Sepulchres, a Benedictine nunnery, 
 founded by Anselm, adjoining a ch. 
 of the Holy Sepulchre. It was here 
 that Elizabeth Barton, "the mm 
 of Kent," was removed from Al- 
 dington, whore her cell "for some 
 3 years was the Delphic shrine 
 of the Catholic oracle, from which 
 the orders of Heaven were commu- 
 nicated even to the pope himself." 
 (Froude, H. E., i. 295, where wiU be 
 found the best and fullest account 
 of her.) There are but scanty re- 
 mains of the nunnery, and it will be 
 hopeless to attempt to trace the 
 chamber from which she "went to 
 heaven once a fortnight," and where 
 the devil at other times "made 
 great stinking smokes." (See more, 
 Aldington, Etc. 7.) 
 
 The public walks of the Dane 
 Jofin are beautiful and wlII worth a 
 visit. The name is no doubt a cor- 
 ruption of Donjon, with a probable 
 reference to the lofty mound close 
 
 within the city walls. This may 
 have had some connexion with the 
 castle beyond ; or may mark the site 
 of some earlier British stronghold. 
 The view of the cathedral from it, 
 seen over the fresh green of the 
 trees, is very striking. The field 
 opposite, outside the walls, is called 
 "the Martj'rs' Field," and in a 
 hollow still visible at the end the 
 Blarian auto-da-fe's are said to have 
 tiiken place. 
 
 Beyond the Dane John, but still 
 close to the city wall, is the Castle, 
 the venerable Norm, keep of which 
 is now converted into a gas factory. 
 It measures 88 ft. by 80, and is the 
 third largest Norm, keep in England, 
 the two exceeding it being Colches- 
 ter 1 08 X 1 26 - and Norwich - 98 x 93. 
 According to Domesday the Con- 
 queror received the castle in ex- 
 change from the Archbishop and 
 Abbot of St. Augustine's. It was 
 reduced without resistance by Louis 
 of France (temp. John.) It became 
 afterwards a prison ; and in the bar- 
 bacan certain of the prisoners used 
 to sit " bound in chains, to beg their 
 daily bread." Jews were frequently 
 confined here, and many versicles 
 of tlie Psalms in Hebrew remained 
 on the walls of the N.E. stair- 
 case in Plot's time (1672). The 
 state apartments were on the third 
 story, with larger arched windows. 
 At the N. end is an arch, high in the 
 wall, now bricked up, which King 
 (Alun. Ant.) supposed to be the 
 original entrance, as at Rochester. 
 Adjoining it was the ancient WortJi 
 Gate, now removed, — an arch of 
 Eoman brick, opening to the Stone 
 Street, by which Lymne (Portus 
 Lemanis) was approached. 
 
 The smaller parish churches, of 
 which Canterbury contains no less 
 than 12, are perhaps of no very high 
 interest. St. Gregory's without the 
 walls, beyond Broad Street, an excel- 
 lent modern E. E. ch. (Scott. Arch.), 
 again recalls the Great Pope whose 
 name "stands at the opening of
 
 18G Route 8. — Canterhury — Churches — Muse 
 
 urn. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Christian Europe," and a little 
 further on, in Northgate Street, was 
 the ancient Priory of St. Gregory, 
 founded by Lanfranc for Augusti- 
 nian Black Canons, the first house of 
 the Order in England. There are now 
 no remains. Tlie canons had the 
 dutj' of ministering to the infirm in 
 the Hospital of St. John, opposite, 
 also founded by Lanfranc, and the 
 twin hospital of Harbledown. More 
 than 100 poor were sustained in this 
 hospital and adjoining edifices, 
 temp. Edw. III. (Somner.) In the 
 chapel was a "very brave qiiire 
 window, with the 12 Apostles," 
 given by one of the Eopcr family, of 
 which only fragments remain. The 
 hospital has been recently restored. 
 The most interestmg part remaining 
 is the Gateway, a wooden structure, 
 arched. 
 
 The Church of Holy Cross was 
 removed by Abp. Sudbuiy (1874-81), 
 from its old position above Westgate 
 when that was rebuilt, and placed 
 beside it. The talbot seiant, 
 Sudbury's coat, appears within the 
 porch. In St. Dnnstan's Clriirrh, he- 
 yond, the head of Sir Thomas More 
 was deposited in the vault of the 
 Kopers. When examined some time 
 since, the hair was found to be quite 
 perfect. The brick gateway nearly 
 opposite the ch., now part of a 
 brewery, is all that remains of the 
 Eopers' manor-house, in which IVIar- 
 garet, the most learned of the 
 "Moricse," as Erasmus called Sir 
 Thomas's daughters, spent her 
 married life. 
 
 Of the smaller religious houses, the 
 most important remains are those of 
 the Dominicans, or Black Friars, on 
 the banks of the Stoiir, below St. 
 Peter's Church. This liouse is said 
 to have been the first they jjos- 
 sessed in England.- They were es- 
 tablished here by Henry III., and 
 the remains are of this date. The 
 refectory, with windows high in the 
 wall, is perfect, and is now used as a 
 Unitarian Chapel. In it De Foe is 
 
 said to have frequently preached. 
 The E. window of the ancient ch. 
 appears on the opposite bank of the 
 Stour. A pictiu-esque view of the 
 ruins may be had from Masters' 
 Nursery, worth a visit for its own 
 sake. The walks are well laid out, 
 and between the trees are pkasaut 
 glimpses of the cathedral and the 
 city wall with its watch turrets. 
 Eemark especially an enormous 
 Lombardy poplar planted 1758. 
 
 Without the garden in a meadow 
 adjoining the " Abbot's Mill," which 
 belonged to St. Augustine's Monas- 
 tery, are 5 large poplars ( 1 Canescens, 
 British, and 4 Monilifera, Canadian). 
 They are about 100 years old, and 
 so picturesque with their ribbed 
 truniis, and great masses of pointed 
 leafage, as to be well worth tlie 
 artist's attention. 
 
 On tlie other side of the street, 
 and in somewhat dangerous jirox- 
 imity to the Dominican brethren, 
 considering the " tantje animis cceles- 
 tibus iraj," were the Franciscctns, es- 
 tablished in Canterbury in 1270. Of 
 their house are no remains. 
 
 FmsI Bridge Hospitcd, close ad- 
 joining, and bound originally to re- 
 ceive " wayfaring and hurt men," is 
 said to have been foiuided by Abp. 
 Becket. Its true histoiy seems un- 
 certain. 
 
 In Guildhall Street, which opens 
 from the High Street, is the Museum, 
 built by siibscription, and containing 
 some collections well worth a visit. 
 Among the local antiquities is an 
 A. S. drinking cup of " twisted " or 
 " pillared " glass— the " twisted ale 
 cup" of Beowulf — such as Ethelbert 
 may have drained in his hall, or 
 pledged Augustine in. It was found 
 near Reculver, and is probably 
 unique. Eemark also the remains 
 of a sacrificial vat or bronze bucket, 
 for mead or beer ; some of the circu- 
 lar A. S. (or Jutisli) brooches pecu- 
 liar to Kent and the Isle of Wight, 
 and other relics from Gilton and 
 Breach Downs. In other cases are
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 8. — WhitstaUe — Oi/ster-heds. 
 
 187 
 
 urns from Hartlip and Cliartlmm, 
 and a curious statuette of Latona(?) 
 foimd in a Roman urn at St. Dun- 
 stan's; besides a fragment of Becket's 
 slirine (?) There is also a remarkable 
 collection of Greek and Etruscan 
 vases presented by Lord Strangford. 
 The Nat. Hist, collections are large. 
 Eemark a large British pearl found 
 in a WTiitstable oj'ster ; fossils from 
 Sheppey, — echini, crabs, lobsters, and 
 turtles ; horns of different species 
 of ox, from Sea Salter and Heme ; 
 mammoth bones and tusks from 
 Heme Bay, and in the hall, some 
 very large ammonites ti'om Dover. 
 An early picture of Cooper's, 
 " Meadows on the Stour, looking 
 towards Canterbury from Tuniford,' 
 hangs in the upper room. The 
 windows of Flemish glass contain 
 some interesting fi-agments. There 
 is a small library below, liberally 
 conducted. Over the fireplace is the 
 portrait of Gostling, author of the 
 ' Walk round Canterbury' (1777). 
 His walking-stick hangs below. 
 
 The Guildhall at the corner of 
 this street, modernized without, con- 
 tains some relics of armour, and 
 some cm-ious portraits. That of 
 Cogan, who gave lauds in 1G57 for 
 the support of 6 clergymen's widows, 
 to the hospital called after liim in 
 High Street, is by Jansen, who was 
 long resident at Bridge, about 3 m. 
 from Canterbury. At the N. end of 
 this street is the small district called 
 " Stalde gate," wliich Ethelbert, it is 
 said, assigned to Augustine and his 
 companions before his own conver- 
 sion. 
 
 Numerous interesting excursions 
 may be made from Canterbury. For 
 Harbledoum and its neighbourhood 
 (within a walk), see Ete. 4 ; for St. 
 Stephen's, where is an interesting ch. 
 (also within a walk), see Ete. 9 ; for 
 Barfreston, with its well-known Nor- 
 man ch., 7 m. from Canterbury, see 
 Ete. 11. 
 
 The short railway from Canter- 
 
 hury to Whitstahle is chiefly used 
 for the conveyance of coals, which 
 are landed at the latter place. 
 
 The modern castellated house 
 seen on the hill rt. in ai)proaching 
 Whitstable is Tanlierton Toiver 
 (Wynn Ellis, Esq.), 
 
 '\MiitstabIe itself, a long straggling 
 village, has few claims to admira- 
 tion ; but some of the largest oyster- 
 beds lie off the coast ; and the scene, 
 when the white-sailed fleet of dredg- 
 ing boats is fluttering and tacking 
 across them, is full of animation. 
 The " Mid-Channel " oysters, from a 
 great natiiral bed which stretches for 
 40 m. between the ports of Shore- 
 ham and Havre — discovered only a 
 few years since — liavc somewhat 
 disturljed the old trade ; Init the 
 " real natives are gi-eater aristocrats 
 among their fellows than ever," so 
 much higher is their gout and deli- 
 cacy. These are re.gularly culti- 
 vated by different companies. At 
 Wiitstable, Sheerness, and other 
 points along the mouth of the 
 Thames, the flow of fresh water 
 from the Thames and IMedway is 
 said to lieucfit the young beds 
 greatly. The " spat" or yoimg brood 
 is frequently brought from a great 
 distance, and " laid" in the lied, where 
 they remain for 8 years before they 
 are brought to market. There are 
 at least 9 oyster companies, besides 
 many individuals who possess and 
 work their own " sea farms," some- 
 times miles in extent. Of these is 
 Mr. Alston, " without doubt the 
 largest oyster fisher in the world, 
 who in a single year has sent to 
 London more than 50,000 bushels 
 from his fisliery at Cheyney Eock, 
 near Sheerness. (Q. Rev. vol. 95.)" 
 
 The Dutch were formerly among 
 the largest purchasers from these 
 fisheries, so that the admirer of the 
 oysters and cut lemons in some 
 frerard Dow or Ostade may please 
 himself with the notion that he has 
 before him the portraits of ancient 
 Thames natives, themselves the de-
 
 188 
 
 Route 9. — Canterbury to Margate. 
 
 Soct. I. 
 
 scendants of those venerable Britisli 
 oysters which in tlie days of Juvenal 
 found their way to Nero's Golden 
 House and Domitian's Alban Villa. 
 The fragments of red Samian 
 pottery, constantly dredged up from 
 the fisheries near the " Pudding 
 Pan Eock" off Eeculver, still re- 
 mind us of the ancient presence of 
 the Romans here. (See the follow- 
 ing Eotite.) 
 
 ROUTE 9. 
 
 CANTERBURY TO MARGATE. 
 
 Proceeding toward Margate, close 
 beyond the Canterbm-y station, 1., 
 half hidden in trees, is the old Church 
 of St. Stephens. On this site Abp. 
 Baldwin (temp. Hen. II.) attempted 
 to establish a college for secular 
 canons. The building was com- 
 menced, but the monks of St. Augus- 
 tine's were violently hostile, and at 
 length obtained a bull prohibiting 
 the college altogether. In it the site 
 is called " maledictum et profaniun.' 
 The earliest portions of the existing 
 ch. are thought to have formed part of 
 Baldwin's foundation. The W. tower 
 has massive E. E. buttresses, and the 
 W. door is E. E. with very rich dog- 
 tooth mouldings. The nave is also 
 E. E. The wide circular transept 
 arches, and tlie S. door icitlun the 
 j)orch, with a diapered tympanum, are 
 earlier. Some of the windows ex- 
 hibit unusual forms of Dec. tracery, 
 and the E. window of the chancel, 
 wliich is Perp., has a smaller light on 
 eitluT side. The whole ch. has lately 
 been well and carefully restored, and 
 
 contains some good stained glass bv 
 Willement. The font, 1591, for tha't 
 time of unusually good Perp. form, 
 was given by Sir Roger Man wood, 
 Chief Baron of the Exchequer temp. 
 Eliz., whose monument is in the S. 
 transept. This was completed in 
 1592, before the death of Sir Roger, 
 and is an excellent specimen of the 
 Elizabethan monument. It is of ala- 
 baster and painted. The bust exhi- 
 bits the bearded chief baron in his 
 red robe, collar of SS., coif, and 
 black cap. Above is an achievement ; 
 and midernoath a skeleton reposes 
 on a mattress. There is a long in- 
 scription. 
 
 The manor fell into the hands of 
 the Manwoods after the dissolution, 
 and Sir Roger built a large " Place 
 House " in the field S. of the ch., of 
 which the foundations still exist. 
 The almshouses beyond were founded 
 by him, as was also the grammar- 
 school at Sandwich (sec Rte. 10). His 
 will and letters (see Boys' Sanrlwir.h) 
 give a fine picture of his life at St. 
 Stephen's, at a time when the duties 
 of property were insisted dn as 
 strongly as its rights. The manor 
 subsequently became the property of 
 the Hales family, one of whom. Sir 
 Edward Hales,had figmxd in the ti-ials 
 relating to the king's dispensing 
 power {Macaulay, i. 84), and was after- 
 wards the companion of James II. 
 in his attempted flight from Shep- 
 pey ; he was taken with the king, and 
 " at that very moment a band of 
 rioters was employed in pillaging his 
 house (at St. Stephen's) and shooting 
 his deer." (Macaulay, i. 570.) About 
 1780 this house was entirely pulled 
 downi ; and the present Hales Place 
 (Miss Hales) built on the ground 
 above. This is of red brick and 
 ugly ; but there are elm avenues and 
 old trees aboixt it, iir the shade of 
 which Sir Roger de Coverley and 
 " the short-faced gentleman " would 
 have delighted. There is a R. C. 
 cliapel attached to the house. 
 
 Slurry, 2 m. (Esturai — Stour
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 9. — Heme Bay. 
 
 189 
 
 Island). At this point an omnibus 
 meets the trains for Heme Bay. 
 
 [The road from Stnrry to Heme 
 Bay, although hilly and varied, is 
 not, as French guide-books would 
 say, very " fertile en emotions." 
 From the top of Storry Hill there is 
 a good view back over Caiiterbury. 
 About 3 m. on rt., in the parish of 
 Hoath, are some very scanty remains 
 of the Archiepiscopal Palace of Ford, 
 the most ancient (except Canter- 
 bury) belonging to the see, to 
 which it was given by Ethelbert. 
 The house, which was of brick 
 and extensive, was rebuilt by Abp. 
 Morton. Cranmer re\nowed tlie 
 " Articles of Eeligion " here in 1552, 
 and had many " friendly conferences' ' 
 at Ford with Ridley, then vicar of 
 Heme, the adjoining parish. Here too 
 he was apprehended and committed 
 to the Tower after the accession of 
 Mary. Parker wished to pull it 
 down and enlarge Bekesbourne, but 
 the Queen would not consent. Whit- 
 gift uged to himt in the park ; an im- 
 archiei)iscopal recreation, punished 
 in the person of his successor. Abbot, 
 who after accidentally killing a 
 keeper with an arrow in Bi'ainshill 
 Park, Hants, spent the period of his 
 disgrace here. Tiie Parliament de- 
 molished Ford and sold the ma- 
 terials. It was restored by Charles 
 II., but the archbishops were freed 
 by Act of Parliament from keeping 
 it in repair, together with the palaces 
 at Canterbury and Bekesbourne. 
 
 The village of Heme, 2 m., is 
 ' pleasantly surrounded by wood. 
 The number of herons once to be 
 found on the coast are said (but 
 questionably) to have given its 
 name to this parish, and to that of 
 Heme Hill, near Favcrsham. The 
 large ch. (Dec. and Perp.) contains 
 some fine Brasses : John Daruley, 
 \'icar, " Qui pater mornm fiiit, et ilos 
 philosophoruni," says the inscription, 
 the date of which is lost — Sir Peter 
 Hal 1 and wife, " a fine si^fecimen of com- 
 
 plete plate armour " (i?0Mfp?/), 1420 
 — Lady Fineanx, 1539 — Cliristian 
 Philp, 1-170, wife of the lord mayor 
 who led the London citizens to Bar- 
 net and was knighted on the field : 
 the hands are spread oi^en, forming a 
 cross, and the unusual inscription 
 runs, "Qui migi'avit ab hac valle 
 miserie." In this ch. the " Te Deum " 
 is said to have been sung for the 
 first time in English, whilst Bp. 
 Eidley was its vicar. " Farewell, 
 Heme," are the words in his " last 
 farewell " — " thou worshipful and 
 wealthy parish, the first cure where- 
 unto I was called to minister God's 
 word. Thou hast heard of my mouth 
 oft time the word of God preached, 
 not after the popish trade, liut after 
 God's gospel. Oh that the fruit had 
 answered to the seed ! But I bless 
 God for all that godlj- vii-tue and zeal 
 of Citod's word which the Lord i)y 
 preaching of his word did kindle 
 manifestly both in the heart and the 
 life of that godly woman there, my 
 Lady Fiennes." The brass of Lady 
 Fineaux, near the altar (akeady 
 noticed), probably commemorates 
 the same jierson. Close to the ch. 
 
 is Stroud Park ( May, Esq.). 
 
 A walk across the fields leads direct 
 to Heme Biuj, which is still 1^ m. 
 distant by the main road. The town 
 here has sprung up very recently, 
 but already contains large and good 
 houses, and excellent bathing ac- 
 commodation. Inn: The Dolphin. 
 There is a long pier used as a 
 promenade, and the usual delights 
 of watering-places — reading-rooms, 
 shrimps, and German l)ands — 
 abound. The wide open bay atfords 
 a magnificent expanse of sea. Canary 
 Grass, first introduced by the Flem- 
 ings of Sandwich, is much grown 
 on the neiglibouring farms. (See 
 Infrod. : Kent.) 
 
 Tile most interesting place to be 
 visited fi'om Heme Bay is Beculver, 
 which is more easily reached from 
 here than from any other point. The 
 distance is about 3 m. The fullest
 
 190 
 
 Route 9. — Eecuher. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 account of tlie old fortress, and of the 
 remains discovered there, will be 
 found in Mr. G. E. Smith's ' AittiqiU- 
 ties of Bichborough, Becitlver, and 
 Ltjmne.' Eeculver, the ancient " Re- 
 gulbiura," was the sister fortress of 
 Richborough (Rutupia!), and pro- 
 tected the " Yenlade '' or north mouth 
 of the Wantsome, dividing Thanet 
 from the main land, just as Rutupiaj 
 did the south. (See Rkhborougli, Rte. 
 10). Both fortresses rose into impor- 
 tance, and were proljably increased 
 in strength, during the latter period 
 of Roman domination, when the 
 " Saxon shore,'' as this part of Kent 
 was called, was constantly lialjle 
 to the descents of northern rovers. 
 There was no Roman road from 
 Regulbium ; and as it lay out of 
 the direct line, it is only mentioned 
 in the Notitia and the Antonine 
 Itinerary, from the first of which 
 we learn that it was then (a.d. 400- 
 450) garrisoned by the first cohort of 
 the Vetasii — Belgians from Brabant 
 — under the command of a tribime. 
 
 Reculver wants the impressive 
 dignity of Richborough, so much of 
 the walls having been either de- 
 stroyed or concealed by the soil. The 
 S. and E. walls are yet standing, but 
 much shattered, and covered with ivy, 
 elder-bushes, and wild fig-trees wliicli 
 sometimes ripen their fruit. The N. 
 wall has been entirely desh-oyed by 
 the sea, and much of the W. has been 
 levelled. When entire, the Castrum 
 occupied about 8 acres. There are no 
 traces of towers. The entrance was 
 in the centre of the W. wall. The 
 walls, when perfect, with their facings, 
 were aljout 12 ft. thick. They are 
 built of flints and pebbles, intermixed 
 with layers of septaria— stones found 
 in the London clay, like flints in 
 chalk, and probably brought from the 
 Isle of Sheppey. There are no tiles, 
 such as occur largely at Richborough, 
 the absence of which is very rare in 
 the S. of England, although usual in 
 theN. 
 
 In Leland's time the sea was 
 
 5 m. distant from the Castrum. In 
 1780 it had advanced close under 
 it, and the N. wall was overthrown 
 by a fall of the clifl'. It is still 
 gaining on the land, but the force of 
 the waves has been cheeked by an 
 artificial causeway of stones and 
 large wooden piles driven into the 
 sands. The average waste of the 
 clift' between the N. Foreland and 
 Reculver, about 11 m., is 2 ft. per 
 annum. {Sir C. Lyell.) 
 
 The Saxon meniories of Regul- 
 bium, now called Eaculf Ceastre, 
 Recnher, are at least as interesting 
 as the Roman. Ethelbert, after his 
 baptism, retired here, having built a 
 palace out of the remains of the 
 fortress. His former palace in Can- 
 terbury, with a ch. or basilica ad- 
 joining, he gave up to Augustine as 
 the foundation of the new cathedral. 
 It is possible, suggests Mr. Stanley, 
 that Ethelbert may have been in 
 some measiu'e influenced by what he 
 had heard of the greater convert 
 Constantine, his donation of the 
 "States of the Church" to Pope 
 Sylvester, and his retirement to Con- 
 stantinople. " Ethelbert's wooden 
 palace was to him what the Lateran 
 was to Constantine. Ai;gustine was 
 his Sylvester — Recidver his Byzan- 
 tium." (H. Mem. 21.) " This wild 
 spot is the scene which most closely 
 connects itself with the remembrance 
 of that good Saxon king," who was 
 traditionally said to have been buried 
 here. The " strong masomy of the 
 Roman walls, which he must have 
 seen and handled," at all events re- 
 mains ; and on a board aflixed to the 
 wall of the ch. was to be read, luitil 
 very lately, the inscription, "Here lies 
 Ethelbert, Kentish King whilome." 
 (He was in fact bm-ied in St. Augus- 
 tine's, Canterbury.) In 669 King 
 Egbert gave Reculver to " Bassa, a 
 mass priest, to build a minster," and 
 in !»49 Eadred gave the monastery 
 so built, "cum tota villa," to Ch. 
 Ch. Canterbury. The original char- 
 ter, m the handwriting of Dunstan,
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 9. — Sturry. — Fordmch. 
 
 191 
 
 " propriis digitoriim articulis," is still 
 preserved and may be seen in tlic 
 cathedral library. The manor still 
 belongs to the archbishops. Abp. 
 Berchtiiald, d. 731, the successor of 
 Theodore of Tarsus, "the philoso- 
 pher," and the first native Saxon 
 who ruled the see imder his o\m 
 name, was Abbot of Keculver. Deus- 
 dedit, d. (J64, was the ouly Saxon 
 archbishop before liim. 
 
 The Church of Eeculver, fidl of 
 interest, " a moniunent of the down- 
 fall of paganism and the triumph of 
 Christianity," was barbarously pulled 
 down in 1809. The vicarage-house, 
 adjoining, was converted into a pub- 
 lic-house. The ch. contained some 
 portions of a Roman building, form- 
 ing the arches into the choir (for 
 drawings see C. B. Smith's Anti- 
 quities of Eeculver, p. 197). The W. 
 towers, called " The Sisters," visible 
 from a great distance, and a land- 
 mark at sea, are now the sole sur- 
 viving relics. A tradition, unsup- 
 ported l)y any autliority, asserts that 
 these towers were built by an Abbess 
 of the "poor nuns of Davington," 
 near Faversham, who, as with her 
 sister she was proceeding in fulfil- 
 ment of a vow from Faversham to 
 the chapel of the Virgin at Broad- 
 stairs, was wrecked at Eeculver, 
 where her sister died. The Abbess 
 is said to have biiilt the ch. towers 
 in memory of the event, and as a 
 warning guide to future sailors along 
 the coast. The beach below is 
 strewed with bones from the church- 
 yard. The ancient remains dis- 
 covered at Eeculver have been much 
 scattered, and the principal notice of 
 them will be found in the Antiqiii- 
 tates Eutupinse of Batteley (1711), 
 who, when rector of Adisham, made 
 extensive researches at Eeculver. 
 A bronze slrigil, used in the bath, 
 is preserved in the library of Trinity 
 College, Cambridge, and mmierous 
 Saxon " sceattas " are figured in Mr. 
 Smith's Antiquities. There is a 
 little inn near the Castrum, rejoicing 
 
 in the name of the " Elhelberfs 
 Arms," at which the visitor will find 
 rude accommodation. 
 
 Some distance from the coast 
 between Wliitstable and Margate, is 
 the Pan Sand or PuddiHg-pan, Bock, 
 from which oyster fishers constantly 
 dredge up gi'eat quantities of Samian 
 pottery. " It has been supposed by 
 some, that a vessel laden with Samiau 
 ware may have foundered here. 
 Others suggest that a pottery has 
 been submerged. As the sea has 
 made extensive im-oads upon this 
 coast, it is more than probable that 
 the locality which furnishes the ware 
 was formerly dry gromid ; but neither 
 of these theories seem altogether 
 satisfactory" (C. B. Smith). The 
 weight of evidence is against the 
 manufactory of Samian pottery.] 
 
 The chancel of Sturry Chiu-cli, 
 dedicated to St. Nicholas, is Norm., 
 the rest Perp. The manor was part 
 of the original grant of Ethelbert 
 to St. Augustine's Monastery. The 
 abbots had a summer residence here, 
 in which, after the dissolution, the 
 last abbot died. (Twine, de Beb. 
 Albion.) The whole manor had 
 been assigned to him. Near the 
 ch. are some few relies of Sturry 
 Court, a James I. house of the Lords 
 Strangford. 
 
 On the opposite bank of the Stour is 
 the village of Fordtcich, a member of 
 the Sandwich Cinque Port. Before 
 the great changes on the coast, the 
 tide flowed as high as this ; ships were 
 moored here, and goods landed. The 
 Domesday survey records 10 mills 
 and 7 fisheries on the stream at this 
 point, so much larger was it than at 
 present. The manor was given by the 
 Confessor to St. Augustine's. Ford- 
 wieh trout (still to be taken) difl'er 
 "from all others in many consider- 
 ables," says Fuller, " as, greatness, — 
 colour, cutting white instead of red 
 when in season, — cunning, not being 
 takeable with an angle,— and abode, 
 remaining 9 months in the sea.
 
 192 
 
 Route 9. — Chistlet. — Minster. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 whence they observe their coming 
 up almost to a day." They are 
 salmon peel. 
 
 An ancient stone shrine (?) 
 figured by Hasted, and said by him 
 to liave been removed from tlie nave 
 of Fordwich Chin-ch to tlie cathedral 
 precincts, does not now appear to 
 exist. 
 
 From Grove Ferry 6 m., famous 
 for its strawberry gardens, it is pos- 
 sible to visit the Koman station of 
 Reculver, distant about G m. It is 
 liowever more conveniently readied 
 from Heme Bay (see ante). Chistlet, 
 1^ m., an ancient manor of Ch. Ch., 
 Canterbury, has an interesting E. E. 
 ch., with a low massive tower at 
 the intersection of nave and chancel. 
 The interior corbels of the chancel 
 windows (long lancets) have monas- 
 tic heads with admirably varied ex- 
 pressions, some of which it is ditiicult 
 to believe not to be portraits. 1 m. 
 beyond, the rail passes Sarre, where, 
 before the drjang up of the Want- 
 sniiie, was the main ferry into the 
 Isle of Thanet. The Wantsome was 
 the name given to the sea passage 
 between Richborough and Reculver, 
 which cut off Thanet from the main 
 land. The wide-spreading marshes 
 vt. of the railway, through which the 
 Stour now drains itself, were partly 
 formed from the ch-ying up of this 
 channel, along the ancient bed of 
 which, once ploughed by Roman 
 galleys and the " dragons " of the 
 N'orthmcn, the railway passes till it 
 reaches Minster, 4 m., where is the 
 junction of the Deal line with that 
 to Rarasgate and IMargate. 
 
 Opposite Minster Church, the 
 tower of which looks out from 
 among its old trees, 1., was Minster 
 fleet, a little creek in wliicli lay 
 the ships bound for this place. 
 This parish was made the scene of a 
 remarkable legend, in which Kemble 
 (Sax. in. Enrj. i. 348) finds ti-aees of 
 ancient heathenism. Egbert, fourth 
 CliristianKing of Kent, had unjustly 
 excluded his cousins from the throne. 
 
 and ordered his lieutenant, Thmior, 
 to put them to death. This was 
 done, and the bodies were buried 
 under the king's own throne. But a 
 mysterious light revealed the place. 
 Egbert was terrified, and by the 
 advice of A.h'p. Theodore he seiit 
 to Dompncva, sister of the mra'dered 
 princes, to ask forgiveness and pay 
 the wergyld. Dompneva desired to 
 have land for founding a monastery 
   — as much as a hind could run over 
 at one course. The king agreed ; and 
 the hind was accordingly let loose 
 in Thanet in his presence. Thunor 
 endeavoured to stop it by riding 
 across its com-se : but the earth 
 opened and swallowed him, "et in 
 infernum cum Dathan et Abiram 
 absorbetur." The hind continued 
 her course straight across the island, 
 having nui over about 48 plough- 
 lands. The monastery (Minster) 
 was founded on the ground thus 
 acquired by Dompneva, who was the 
 first abbess. Mildred, her daughter, 
 a yet greater saint, succeeded, and 
 ruled over the " great multitude of 
 virgins." The house flourished until 
 1011, when it was destroyed by 
 Sweyn of Denmark, and the abbess 
 with her nuns were burnt within 
 the walls. Knut, Sweyn's son, gave 
 the land and site of the monasteiy 
 to St. Augustine's at Canterbury. 
 The gift included the body of 
 the "Nardiflua Virgo," St. Mil- 
 dred, which had escaped the Danish 
 ravages, and which, after declining 
 to move, at last yielded to the 
 prayers of the abbot, who took it 
 from its tomb by night, and tied 
 with it in haste to the feriy, pursued 
 by the men of Thanet, unwilling 
 to lose so great a treasure. It 
 was, however, safely conveyed to 
 St. Augustine's, where its miracles 
 soon became of great reputation. 
 
 The present Chitrcli was erected 
 
 after the land had become the pro- 
 
 I perty of St. Augustine's. It is large 
 
 and important, and well deserves a 
 
 visit. The nave is late Norm. ; the
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 9. — Minster. — St. Mildred's Lynch. 
 
 193 
 
 transepts and choir E. E. The choir 
 is vaulted in 4 bays, sjiringing from 
 shafts between 4 very lofty E. E. 
 \vindows. The E. window is a triplet 
 E. E., with clustered shafts between 
 the lights. In the choir are 18 
 miserere stalls, with very perfect 
 grotesques. On the base of the 
 second pilaster, N. side of choir, is 
 scratched in letters of early form, 
 "discat qui nescit q'' trot — hie re- 
 quiescit." The name has been partly 
 obliterated, and it seems more than 
 probable that the inscription is not 
 much more ancient than tliat dis- 
 covered in Mr. Oldbuck's prsetorium. 
 The transept vaidting was perhajis 
 never comi^leted. The commence- 
 ment of each bay alone remains. 
 Within the tower is a Norm, door, 
 with tympanum. 
 
 At the N. end of the N. transept is 
 the arched tomb of Edila deThorne ; 
 the brass is gone. In the S. aisle of 
 nave is the old Bible pew, with the 
 fragment of a brass-studded cover still 
 chained to it. Remark also a very 
 ancient iron-bound chest, of which 
 the lid is a romided oak trunk. The 
 ancient wealth of the Kentish yeo- 
 man, which beat "a gentleman of 
 Wales, a knight of Cales, or a laird 
 of the North countrie," is indicated 
 by two large black marljle altar- 
 tombs, in this aisle, elaborately de- 
 corated with death's heads and in- 
 scriptions to match. The spire was 
 originally surmounted by a cross, but 
 this was removed in 1G47 by "Blue 
 Dick," the famous Canterbmy fa- 
 natic ; who, when Meric Casaubon, 
 the previous vicar, refused the Cove- 
 nant, obtained the grant of the se- 
 questration. 
 
 E. of the churchyard is Minster 
 Court, (John Swinford, Esq.), the 
 manor-house in which the monks 
 resided who cared for the estate. 
 There are still some remains of the 
 old building ; the chief relic being 
 what seems to have once formed 
 an entire house, dating late in 
 12th cent. One end is now joined 
 
 to other buildings. In the other is 
 a Norm, window ; the interior has 
 been entirely modernized. This was 
 probably the original grange. The 
 great barn or " Spicarium," 352 ft. 
 long, by 47 wide, with chestnut roof, 
 was burnt by lightning in 1700. 
 The abbot had much difficulty with 
 his tenants here, descendants of the 
 fierce old Jutes. In 1318 they at- 
 tempted to destroy the manor-house, 
 besieged the mouisin it for 15 days, 
 cut down trees, and bm-nt all the 
 abljot's ploughs and carts. The 
 varying "rents and services" were 
 the grounds of quarrel. 
 
 [Minster is perhaps the most con- 
 venient point from which to reach 
 St. NicJwlas Clrurch — well worth a 
 visit. The high ground toward the 
 centre of Thanet, which will be 
 crossed on the way, commands one 
 of the most interesting prosjiects in 
 England. 
 
 A wooded lane beyond the manor- 
 house leads ui^ward to the liigher 
 part of the island, along which ran 
 the line of the Lynch or raised green 
 way, said to mark the course of 
 Dompneva's deer, and serving as 
 the boundary of the parish. Some 
 traces of it may perhaps be found 
 near the inn on the hill-top, called 
 Prospect House, but the greater part 
 has been broken up, notwithstanding 
 the old monastic rhyme : — 
 
 " Cultor sive sator, hujus metse violator, 
 Cum Thunor atra metit, inde baiatra petit." 
 
 It was known as "St. Mikh-ed's 
 Lynch," she having been jjatron 
 saint of the district. St. Mildred's 
 rock with the impression of her foot 
 was long shown at Ebb's fleet (when 
 she took the i^lace of St. Augustine, 
 see post), and she once saved Minster 
 from an attack of Edward I. who 
 had claimed the manor for the crown. 
 Being at Canterbmy on St. Mildred's 
 Eve, the king dreamt that he was 
 crossing the straits from Flanders, 
 and that, being overtaken by a great 
 storm, he made for Thanet, but was
 
 194 
 
 Route 9. — Isle of Thanet. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 in-evented from Linding by a royal 
 virniii, luilnted like a imii, who " put 
 olt" the king's vessel with her stall"." 
 King Edward complained ; but was 
 awakened by the ringing of bells on 
 St. Mildred s morning, whose power 
 he recognised, and abandoned his 
 purpose. Close to Prospect House 
 is Minster Chalkpit, long called Thu- 
 nor's Leap, since it was at this spot 
 that the minister of King Egbert 
 was swallowed up. The king stood 
 close by, says the legend, to see the 
 deer run. Thunor (the thunder) is 
 probably a recollection of the old 
 Northern god so called. In no other 
 instance does it occur among the 
 Anglo-Saxons as the name of a man. 
 i^Kemble.) 
 
 The hill beyond Prospect House is 
 one of the highest points in Thanet ; 
 and some general notice of the 
 island may perhaps be most fittingly 
 read here. Tenet — Tanet-lond (Sax. 
 tene, a fire or beacon), probably re- 
 ceived its name from the many 
 beacons or watch-fires lighted up on 
 this im2:)ortant outpost to give warn- 
 ing of api^roaching sails, 
 
 " To tell tbat the ships of the Dimes 
 And the red-haired spoilers were nigh." 
 
 Its British name was Ituim — a 
 headland (so Ilanie Head, W. point 
 of Plymouth Sound). Its Koman 
 occupation is proved by the great 
 number of interments and of Eoman 
 coins, " liald pennies " as they are 
 called, which have been foimd here ; 
 and its early Saxon (or Jutish) colony 
 by the extensive cemetery inOsengal 
 Hill, near Ramsgate. The length of 
 the island, between Sarre and the N. 
 Foreland, is 9 m. ; the breadth, at 
 the narrowest part, is 4 — between 
 Margate and Sandwich 8. The Want- 
 some or sea passage which divided 
 it from the main land — one-third of 
 a mile wide in Bede's time, and 
 passable only at Sarre and Wade — 
 
 through which the waters of the Stour 
 anciently passed N. and S. to Rich- 
 borough and to Reculver (where the 
 N. mouth of the Wantsome was 
 called the Yenlade), began to dry up 
 at a very early period. It was the 
 general passage for the Danish ships 
 Londonward, after touching at Sand- 
 wich ; but the Sandwich harliom- and 
 the Wantsome shared the same fate, 
 and became finally closed about 
 1500, nearly at the same time as the 
 Damme inlet (the i)ort of Bruges), 
 on the opposite coast of Flanders, 
 also became imjjassable. The island 
 seems to have extended much farther 
 seaward in Bede's time, who says 
 it contained land enough for GOO 
 families. It now contains about 
 28,000 acres of arable land, and 3500 
 of marsh and pastiu-es. On the high 
 ground there is at i^resent but little 
 wood ; Domesday, however, mentions 
 1000 acres of forest. The Pop. when 
 Lewis Avrote (1723) was 8800; it is 
 now aliout 40,000. The soil is gene- 
 rally light and challvy, and a wet 
 summer, elsewhere a great evil, is 
 here rather longed for. Hence a 
 local proverb —   
 
 " When England wrings, 
 The island sings." 
 
 Yet Thanet is rich and fmitful : 
 
 " Insula rotunda Thanatos fjuam circuit tinda, 
 FertilisetmundanuUi est inorbe secunda" 
 
 was the inscription which formerly 
 encircled the chancel of Monkton 
 Chiu'ch in the valley below. Much 
 corn seems to have been grown here 
 at a very early period, — possibly for 
 exportation to the continent. Solinus 
 calls Thanet " frumentariis campis 
 felix." It had been blessed, " con- 
 traxit benedictionem," ever since Au- 
 gustine had first set foot on it. No 
 snake or rat could live within its 
 Ijounds {Hi<iden^ any more than in 
 Ireland, or in the triangular patch of 
 holy ground between the hills of 
 Glastonbury. 
 Until the beginning of the last cen-
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 9. — Isle of Thanet. 
 
 195 
 
 tiuy, owing partly to its being diffienlt 
 of access, and to its lying off the main 
 roads, Thauet was in nearly as wild 
 a state as the remotest parts of Corn- 
 wall. " The inhahitauts," says Cam- 
 elen, " arc a sort of amphiliions crea- 
 tm-es, equally skdled in holding helm 
 and plough." In Lewis's time (1723) 
 "they made two voyages a year to 
 the North Seas, and came home from 
 the latter soon enough for tlie men 
 to go to wheat season, and take a 
 winter tlu-esh, which last they have 
 done time enough to go to sea in the 
 spring." They were good sailors, 
 but " it's a thousand pities they are 
 so apt to pilfer stranded ships. This 
 they call Paultring, and of the goods 
 saved they make what they call Qaile 
 shares between each other." There 
 was then a local rhyme which ran 
 thus — 
 
 " Ramsgate herrings, Peter's lings, 
 BroaJstairs' scrubs, and Margate liings" — 
 
 indicating the great poverty of all 
 but the last jjlace, which from its 
 London trade was wealtliy. Lewis 
 mentions as a peculiarity of the 
 " Thanet people that they gave to th 
 the sound of cZ," as "dat man dere," 
 for " that man there." This, however 
 (which was not confined to Thauet, 
 but extended over much of Kent and 
 Sussex), is now greatly changed, 
 together with the ancient farming, 
 which " cast the straw into the 
 king's highway to make dimg." 
 " Sainte Foine, or wholesome hay, 
 a French grass," had just been 
 introduced, in 1720, together with 
 the planting of beans. At present, 
 Thanet is not beliind the rest of the 
 world in good farming ; and sundry 
 " noisome savours," in which modern 
 agricultiu-e rejoices, — such as that of 
 burning kelp on the shore, whicli 
 had once been "cursed out of the 
 country," — have reappeared, and are 
 very far from bestowing an additional 
 charm on tlie sea-breezes. Thanet 
 confers the title of Earl on the family 
 
 of Tufton ; whose peerage dates from 
 1G28. 
 
 Tlie high ground above Prosi^ect 
 House is interesting, not only from 
 its wide view, but from its having 
 possibly been the scene of one of 
 the most important events in the 
 history of Thanet and of England, 
 the first meeting of Augustine the 
 missionary with King Ethelbert. It 
 is said by Lewis, apparently from 
 old tradition, to have occurred here, 
 under an oak, a sacred tree with 
 Germans as well as Britons. Ethel- 
 bert, after Augustine's landing at 
 El)be's fieet, had ordered him to re- 
 main in Thanet, with the Wantsome, 
 then 3 " fmlongs " broad, between 
 the Kentisli king and the strangers ; 
 and afterwards arranged that their 
 first conference should take place in 
 the open air, for fear of magical in- 
 fluences. " The meeting must have 
 Ijcen remarkable. Tlie Saxon Iving, 
 ' son of the ash-tree ' (^scing), with 
 his wild soldiers round, seated on 
 the bare groimd on one side — on 
 tlie other, with a huge silver cross 
 borne before him, and beside it a 
 large picture of Christ painted and 
 gilded, on an upright board, came 
 up from the shore Augustine and 
 his companions ; chanting, as they 
 advanced, a solemn Litany, for them- 
 selves and for those to whom they 
 came. He, as we are told, was a 
 man of almost gigantic stature, head 
 and shoulders taller than any one 
 else ; with him were Lawrence, who 
 afterwards succeeded lum as Abp. 
 of Canterbury, and Peter, who be- 
 came the first abbot of St. Augus- 
 tine's. They and their companions, 
 amounting altogether to forty, sat 
 down at the king's command, and 
 the interview began." (Stanley's 
 II. Mem. of Canterbury.') After ob- 
 taining the king's consent to their 
 teaching they crossed to Kichbo- 
 rough, and so advanced by the old
 
 196 
 
 Route 9. — MonTiton. — St. Nicholas at Wade. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Koman road to Canterbury. The 
 liiritory of their institutions there has 
 ah-eady been traced (Kte. 8). 
 
 Few prospects are of higher his- 
 torical interest tlian this from the 
 hills of Thanet. Far aud wide, and 
 glowing with corn-fields, spreads out 
 the panorama of East Kent, with its 
 old Saxon graveyards and memo- 
 rials. Ebbe's fleet, where Augustine 
 landed and where Hengist is said to 
 have landed before Mm, may be 
 ti-aced by its line of trees in the 
 marsh S. Beyond are visible the 
 massive walls of Kutupite (Eich- 
 borough), with the glimmer of the 
 " Pontus Eutupinus " along the 
 moutli of the mined harbour of 
 Sandwich. N. are the twin spires of 
 Eeculver (Eegidbium), and W. the 
 great towers of Canterbury cathe- 
 di'al rise dark against the blue dis- 
 tance. An entire history of England 
 lies open before us. The veiy 
 changes of the landscape, — the white 
 train smoke, the sea covered with 
 sails, the rich cultivation, — suggest 
 the contrast of that distant time when 
 Augustine landed here "in tinibus 
 mundi," a messenger to a barbarous 
 people, whose land was covered with 
 thick woods and desolate marshes, — 
 yet bringing with him the germs of 
 so much coming change aud pros- 
 perity. 
 
 The church and manor of Monk- 
 ton, seen among the trees below, 
 was granted by Queen Edgifa to Oh. 
 Ch., Canterbmy, " monkis for to 
 feecle,"accordingto the Chapter-house 
 picture. The ch. has fragments of 
 all periods, and from the exterior 
 arches in the S. wall seems to 
 have been larger. At the W. end 
 were the verses quoted above. Tlio 
 " antient spiral staircase of wood " 
 mentioned by Hasted does not now 
 exist. There is a monument to " that 
 modest gentlewoman," Frances Ble- 
 cheden, " who enjoyed 3 husbands." 
 Brass: a priest in chasuble, 1450, a 
 very fine example. The farm ad- 
 joining, on the site of the old manor- 
 
 house, seems still capable of feeding 
 many monks. 
 
 A road over wide open fields leads 
 to St. Nicholas at Wade, where was 
 one of the two fords over the Want- 
 some. It was at first a chapel at- 
 tached to Eeculver, but was after- 
 wards transferred to the monks of 
 Ch. Ch., to whom the erection of 
 the large and interesting ch. is 
 owing. The S. side of the nave is 
 late Norm. The 3 upi^ermost of the 
 5 bays are circ, richly cai-ved. The 
 piers have circ. columns half attached, 
 with rich capitals. The piers of the 
 N. aisle are octangular, witli moidded 
 capitals E. E. Each aisle terminates 
 in a chancel, parallel with that of 
 the nave, into which the N. chancel 
 opens with 2 E. E. arches. The win- 
 dows in all the chancels are Dec, 
 and the great E. window strongly 
 resembles (but is not identical with) 
 the Auselm window in Canterbury 
 Catheih-al. The font is E. E. The 
 tower at the end of S. aisle is late 
 Dec, the vaulting having either been 
 destioyed or never fijiished; the 
 brackets remain. The nave is flat, 
 and ceiled, and has a chandelier with 
 crown and mitre for weights. In the 
 N. chancel is a good -Brass (1559) of 
 Valentine Everard, two wives and 
 sou. The porch has a parvise cham- 
 ber. The ch. is built of sea-worn 
 flints, with much rough brick (Eo- 
 man?) interspersed. The eastern 
 dripstones of the tower window, en- 
 ciTisted with nests of the " temple- 
 hamiting martlet," represent heads 
 of a bishop and prior. The whole 
 building proves the care and ex- 
 pense bestowed by the monks on 
 their ofi"-lying manors. 
 
 From St. Nicholas it is possible to 
 cross the marshes to Eecrdver, but 
 the path is dangerous, and not to be 
 reconimended.3 
 
 From Minster, the rail proceeds, 
 skirting the marshes, aud passing 
 through a deep cutting in Osengal 
 mil, with its Saxon cemetery (see 
 post), to
 
 Kent. 
 
 Fioute 9. — Ramsgate. — Pegicell Bay. 
 
 197 
 
 5 m., Bams(jaie (Pojj. 11,000). 
 Inns : Albion ; George Watson's ; 
 Royal Hotel (a tariff of charges hung 
 in each room) ; and niany others. 
 
 At Ramsgate {Eium's gate, the 
 Gate of Eium, tlie British name of 
 Thanet — Gate, Loth here and on the 
 Flemish coast, signifying a passage 
 between dunes or clifls to the sea) 
 the chalk reappears ; a In'oad space 
 of open marshland extending from 
 this point to the clitfs Ijeyond Deal. 
 
 As a watering-place Ramsgate is 
 slightly more aristocratic than Mar- 
 gate, though the difference is not con- 
 siderable. The season is the latter 
 end of the summer and the autumn, 
 when the demands of lodging-house 
 keepers become extravagant. Board- 
 ing-houses and lodgings of all kinds 
 abound ; and from the situation of 
 the town, most of them command 
 good sea-views. Every usual sea- 
 side accommodation or amusement 
 is to be found here. Tlie climate is 
 far more bracing than that of the 
 southern coast ; and it is found to 
 have an especially favourable in- 
 fluence in all cases of scorbutic 
 disorder. 
 
 Ramsgate, which had hitherto been 
 a small fishing village, began to in- 
 crease in importance toward the be- 
 ginmng of the last century, " through 
 the successful trade of its inhabitants 
 to Russia and the east country." The 
 commencement of its pier in 1750 
 proves that this trade was not then 
 declining. This pier, which was built 
 chiefly of Purbeck stone, is described 
 by Pennant (1787) as tlie "finest 
 existing," ajid it still ranks among 
 the most important works of its kind. 
 Great improvements have, however, 
 been made here .since the beginning 
 of the century. There are now 2 
 pier.s, forming excellent promenades, 
 and enclosing tlie small harbour, 
 which covers an area of about 40 
 acres. Tliis serves as a "harbour 
 of refuge " for tlie Downs, wliieli 
 stretch away in front of it. On tlie 
 W. pier-head is a lighthouse ; 400 
 
 [Kent & Sussex.'] 
 
 sail have been received in this har- 
 bour at one time. An oljelisk near 
 the pier commemorates the df-par- 
 ture of George IV. from this place 
 for Hanover. On the Parade, and 
 close to the sea, is St. Aucjustine's — 
 tlio Gothic villa built by, and long 
 the residence of, A. W. Pugin, Esq. 
 The sea and Christian areiiitecture 
 were, in his opinion, " the only tilings 
 wortli living far." He was indiftlr- 
 eut to the roughest weather ; and 
 rendered frequent help with his ov*n 
 cutter iir cases of sliipwreck. 
 
 The village of St. Lawrence, the 
 ch. wliich gives name to the parish 
 in which Ramsgate stands, lies inland 
 about 5 in. It has a central Norm. 
 tower, with external arcade. In it 
 is a good Jlrass of Nicli. Mansion, 
 1444. St. Lawrence was at first a 
 chapelry attached to Minster, but 
 was made paroeliial in 1275. 
 
 At Manstun Conii, 1 m., the family 
 of Manston were settled as early as 
 the reign of John. The mansion, 
 which is ancient, has now become a 
 farmliouse. There are considerable 
 remains of the chajiel. 2 m. farther, 
 at Thome, long the residence of a 
 family of the same name, are parts 
 of a good Dec. house, witli some of 
 the original windows remaining. 
 
 PecjiceU. Bay, which stretches in- 
 land between Ramsgate and Sand- 
 wich, is the traditional scene of two 
 famous landings,— that of Hengist 
 and Horsa, and that of St. Augiistine 
 in 597. The historical character of 
 the first is very questionable : for 
 ample details of the second, see 3Ir. 
 Sfaiilei/'s ' Historical Memorials of 
 Canterbury— Tlie Lanchng of Au- 
 gustine.' The actual sjjot where the 
 Christian missionaries first set foot 
 on English ground was Ebhe's fleet 
 [fleet is port, harbour), "still the 
 name of a farm-liouse on a strip of 
 liigh ground rising out of Minster 
 marsh," now some distance inland, 
 Ijut evidently at one time a pro- 
 montory running out between the 
 estuary of the Stour and Pegwell
 
 198 
 
 Route 9. — Hill of OsengalJ. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Bay. " The tradition that ' some 
 lamling ' took phi,ce here, is still pre- 
 served at the farm, and the field of 
 clover ■whioli rises immediately on its 
 N. side is still shown as the spot.'" 
 (Stanley.) The landing of Hengist 
 is also jilaeed at Ebbe's fleet by tlie 
 Saxon Clironiclcr ; and afterwards Bt. 
 IMildred, the great saint of Thanet, 
 Avas said to have left her footmark 
 on a rock there, which, if ever re- 
 moved, had the power of flying liack 
 to its original place. The mark was 
 also called 8t. Augnstine's, and be- 
 longs to a class of snperstitions fonnd 
 almost throughont the world. (Com- 
 pare Adam's footi)rint in Ceylon, Ma- 
 homet's in the Mosque of Omar, 
 &c.) " In later times the footmark 
 became an object of i^ilgrimage, and 
 u little chai)el was built over it." 
 These several instances prove that 
 Ebbesfleet was the ordinary land- 
 ing-place in Thanet. Augustine's 
 subsequent interview with Etlielbert 
 may have taken place here ; but the 
 more ]n-ol)able scene of it, according 
 to local trachtion, was the high ground 
 above Minster. (See ante.) The 
 missionaries at all events crossed 
 from here to llichborough on tlieir 
 first advance to Canterbury. (See 
 Ete. 10.) 
 
 The hill of Omujull, about U m. 
 from Eamsgate, should be visited as 
 ■well for the sake of its noble view 
 as for tlie interesting associations 
 connected witli the site. In cutting 
 the railway through tlie chalk of 
 which the hill consists, it was found 
 tiiat tlie whole of its summit was 
 covered with the graves of the first 
 Saxon settlers in Thanet — about 200 
 of wliich are supposed to have )>een 
 destroyed, and their contents thrown 
 carelessly aside, before the attention 
 of Mr. Rolfe of Sandwich was called 
 to the .spot. He at once obtained 
 exclusive permission to excavate in 
 different parts of tlic hill ; and nu- 
 incriius graves have been opened by 
 liim since the summer of ISIO. 
 
 " Tlie graves are dug into the 
 
 chalk, on an average not more than 
 4 feet deep, and often less. They 
 lay apjiarently in rows, and were no 
 doubt originally covered, like tho 
 Saxon graves in other jiarts of tho 
 island, witli low mounds or barrows, 
 wliich have been levelled with the 
 surrounding .soil by tlie action of 
 wind and weather." The remains 
 found in the graves are all of the 
 heathen period — the latter part of 
 the 5th and Gth cents., "and illus- 
 trate a period of the history of our 
 island concerning which we have no 
 otlicr authentic record. Their pe- 
 culiar interest arises from the cir- 
 cumstance that it was the custom 
 of the Anglo-Saxons, l)eforo their 
 conversion to Christianity, to bury 
 their dead in their best garments, 
 W'ith tlieir arms and personal orna- 
 ments, and with every variety of 
 imijlement and utensil to whicli 
 they had shown any attachment." 
 {Wright.) Strings of glass and 
 amber beads, coins (sceattas, and in 
 one instance a fresh and unworn 
 gold Byzantine coin of the Emi:)eror 
 Justin, wlio reigned from 518 to 527), 
 brooches, and weapons (spear-heads, 
 swords, knives, and fragments of 
 sliields), are the principal objects 
 found. In one grave was discovered 
 "a beautiful pair of bronze scales, 
 delicately shajjed, and a complete 
 set of weights formed out of Roman 
 coins." Some few of the graves are 
 decidedly Roman— and in these the 
 interment has been made in the 
 Roman and not in the Saxon man- 
 ner — indicating that " a Roman and 
 a Saxon population lived simul- 
 taneously, and probably mixed to- 
 gether, in tlie Isle of Thanet.'' 
 
 At whatever period the interments 
 commenced here, tliey must have 
 been continued up to the time of 
 Ethelbert— a fact wliich gives an 
 ad<liiional interest to his interview 
 with Augustine, wliich, whether it 
 occurred at Ebbesfleet or above 
 Minster, must have taken place in 
 full view of the great Saxon ceme-
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 9 . — Broadstairs. — Margate. 
 
 199 
 
 terj' where tlie " followers of Hengist 
 and Horsa " had been interred for at 
 least two cents. The view from 
 Osengall, in all its main features, 
 resembles that already notieed above 
 Minster — "a noble burial-place for 
 men whose birthright it was to play 
 with the ocean, and who had so 
 recently made themselves masters 
 of the valleys that lay extended 
 below." (^Wrlcjht — Wanderhvjs of an 
 Antiquary ; where will be found an 
 interesting account of tliesc graves, 
 and of the discoveries made m 
 them.) 
 
 At East CZ/f (Sir M. Montefiore), 
 5 m., some remarkable {)assages have 
 been cut in the chalk, leading from 
 the upper clifis to the shore. 
 
 Broadstairs, 3 m. from Eamsgate 
 {Inns: Albion; Prince Albert), 
 much quieter than either Eamsgate 
 or INIargate, is in many respects pre- 
 ferable as a bathing-place. The sands 
 are firm and good ; and from the 
 parade on the clifts above, the sea- 
 view is grand, and unbroken, except 
 by the line of the French coast 8. 
 Lodgings are good and plenty, and 
 all other conveniences are amply 
 supplied. 
 
 The breadth of its sea-gate gave 
 name to Broadstairs. This passage 
 was defended by strong doors within 
 a stone portal arch, some part of 
 which remains. A little above was 
 a chapel dedicated to " Our Lady of 
 Broadstairs," of so great I'ciiutation 
 that ships lowered their topsails in 
 sailing by it. (Some part of this 
 chapel is retained in the present 
 Baptist Meeting-house.) The cod 
 lisheries of Iceland and the Northern 
 Seas were greatly frequented about 
 1759 by vessels from Broadstairs, 
 owing to which the prosperity of 
 the place rapidly increased. 
 
 1^ m. inland from Broadstairs is 
 St. Peter's — like St. Lawrence, at first 
 a chapelry to Minster, and after- 
 wards made parochial. The ch. is 
 mainly Ptrp., and of some interest. 
 In the churchyard is the headstone 
 
 of Eichard Joy, called the Kentish 
 Samson, whose feats of strength 
 were the marvel of all this district in 
 the early part of the last century. 
 Among them, he is said to have 
 pulled successfully against a horse 
 of unusual power, to have lifted a 
 weight of 2240 lbs., and to have 
 broken a rope capable of suijjoortiug 
 35 cwt. 
 
 St. Peter's has many pleasant 
 houses scattered about it, and the 
 situation is altogether agreeable. 
 Lowell Hill, in this jiarish, is the 
 highest ground in Thanet. 
 
 From Kamsgate a course of 4 m. 
 across the island brings the tourist to 
 
 Margate. — Inns: York Hotel; 
 Duke's Head; White Hart. Lodg- 
 ings are good and plentiful ; varying 
 in price according to the sea-view. 
 Steamers run daily to and from 
 Jjondon. 
 
 Of all English "Aljigails in cast 
 gowns," as Horace Walpole calls 
 watering-places " that mimic the 
 capital, Margate is without doubt 
 the least aristocratic, though, per- 
 haps, not the least amusing. Like 
 Brighton, it is conqjletely a srdanrb 
 of Loudon ; and a iluctuating popu- 
 lation of between 50,000 and 100,000 
 is poured into it during the season 
 by railway and steamers, to which 
 latter IVIargate is indebted for its 
 prosperity ; since all the modern 
 buildings and accommodation of the 
 place date from their hrst introduc- 
 tion here about 30 years since. 
 Margate, however, began to be 
 sought as a bathing-place toward 
 the middle of the last century ; its 
 tirm and smooth sands being a great 
 attraction. Bathing-machines were 
 used here for the hrst time in Eng- 
 land, about 1790. Their projector, 
 Benjamin Beale, a Quaker, was an 
 inhabitant of Margate, and ruined 
 himself in establishing his invention. 
 {Hasted.) 
 
 The gate or sea passage luy " close 
 to a little mere (used in this jjart of 
 Kent to signify a streandet\ called 
 
 h 2 '
 
 200 
 
 Route 9. — Margate. — Bivchington. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 ' the Brooks;" " hence the name Mere- 
 giite or INIargatc. Tlie original vil- 
 lage was called St. John's, and clns- 
 tcrcd abont tlio old C'hnrch of St. 
 John, at the S. end of IMargate, The 
 houses, like those of Flemish and 
 Scots fishing towns, were generally 
 of one story ; but the village was 
 early in repute " for fishery and coast- 
 ing trade," and most of the corn 
 grown in the Island was lirought 
 hero for conveyance to London. 
 There was a wooden pier at Margate 
 'long before the reign of Henry A'lII., 
 when Leland describes it as " sore 
 -decayed." 
 
 Tlie passage from England to 
 Holland used frequently to be made 
 from this place. The Elector Pala- 
 tine, and the Princess Elizabeth, his 
 wife, daughter of James I., embarked 
 from here, ^^'illiam III. more than 
 once sailed from Margate ; and "tliat 
 successful and victorious general, tlie 
 late Duke of Marlborough, used to 
 choose this for his jilace of going 
 abroad and landing, when he went 
 nnd came to and from the several 
 vam])aigns he made." (I'eiiunnt.) 
 
 The existing pier, of Whitby stone, 
 was completed by the engineer, 
 John Eennie, in 1815. This is the 
 Grand Promenade of IMargate, where 
 the peculiarities of the place may be 
 thoroughly studied. Strangers are 
 admitted to tlie lighthouse on the 
 pier, and the view from its siuumit 
 will i-epay the labour of mounting. 
 
 All the usual watering-place rc- 
 isom'ces abound in IMargate. The 
 Museum of the Literary Institution, 
 in Hawley Square, contains some 
 good specimens of British birds, and 
 a collection of the native plants of 
 'i'hanet. 
 
 Sf. Johns Church has Norm, por- 
 lions ; and is rich in Brasses: Nicli. 
 C.'antejs, 1431— Thos. Smith, vicar, 
 1433 ; John Daundelyon (the last 
 male of his house), 1445 ; Kich. 
 \otfield (a skeleton), 1446; John 
 Sefowh^ and wife, 1475: Thos. C'ar- 
 diif, vicar, 1515. The five bells aie 
 
 famous. On the 4th is the inscrip- 
 tion, " Missi de coelis habeo nomen 
 Gabrielis." On the 5th, or tenor, 
 "Daundeleon,I.H.S.;'J'rinitati sacra, 
 sit hsoc campana beata." These two 
 ])ells were cast by the same founder, 
 probably a Fleming. The traditional 
 rhyme concerning the latter runs 
 thus : — 
 
 " John de Daundelyon with his great Dog, 
 Bnnight over this bell on a mill cog." 
 
 The " dog " is explained as the name 
 of the vessel in which the bell was 
 conveyed. 
 
 Daundehjon, the ancient manor of 
 this family, lies about 1^ m. W. of 
 Margate. It was long converted 
 into a tea-garden, from which degra- 
 dation it has been happily rescued. 
 Of the older mansion the gateway 
 alone remains, dating from about the 
 reign of Heniy IV. It is built of iiint 
 and brick in alternate rows, with 
 loopholes and battlements above. 
 Over the main gate are the arms of 
 Dent de Lyon, which family was esta- 
 blished here before the time of Ed- 
 ward I. Underneath tlie rt. side of 
 this gate was discovered, toward the 
 end of the 17th cent., what seems to 
 have been a Eoman sepulchral de- 
 posit of unusual importance. The 
 urns and glass vessels were arranged 
 in a " room large enough to hold 8 
 or 10 persons." (Leivis's ' Thanef.') 
 
 From Daundelion the tourist may 
 proceed to Birchington, and return 
 to Margate by Hengrove and Sal- 
 meston. 
 
 The Church of Birclu'injton, 2 m. 
 beyond Daundelyon, contains some 
 interesting Brasses : — John Felde, 
 1404 ; Joiin Quek and child, 1449 ; 
 Richard Quek, 1459 ; Alys Crispe, 
 1518 ; John Heynys (vicar) ele- 
 vating the host, 1523. In the church- 
 yard liere, as in some others in tliis 
 part of Kent, was a small building 
 called the " wax-house," in which 
 the lights used in the ch. and for 
 processions were made. 
 
 Great Quex (H. P. Cotton, Esq.),
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route- P . — Hiiiigrovc. — Kiagsgate. 
 
 201 
 
 S. of the oil., was the scat of the 
 Qneke or Quex family from the 
 lieginning of the 15th cent. The 
 Crispes succeeded them liere, through 
 intermarriage with an heiress, temp. 
 Hen. VII. It was at the old house 
 here, which was of brick and partly 
 timbered, that William III. Avas in 
 the habit of resting before and after 
 his passages to Holland. In 1057, 
 during the Protectorate, Hem-y Crispe 
 of Quex, a person of considerable im- 
 portance, and a Puritan, was carried 
 off from his own house here by Cap- 
 tain Goldiug, a sanguine royahst, and 
 long detained prisoner at Ostend 
 and Bruges. The present house is 
 modern, and the 2 towers in the 
 park are good sea-marks. One of 
 them contains a peal of 12 bells, in 
 whose sweet voices the oi-iginal pro- 
 prietor greatly delighted. 
 
 At Hemjrove (1 m. S.E. of Daun- 
 delyon) are some slight remains of 
 a chapel attached to the manor. 
 Salmeston ; beyond, about ^ m. from 
 Margate, was a grange beh^nging to 
 St. Augustine's, Canterbury. It is 
 now a farm-house ; but great part of 
 the original buildings, temp. Edw. II., 
 remain, and are interesting. The 
 two vdngs contain a hall and chapel 
 — the windows in botli of whieli dis- 
 play their original form and tracery. 
 The chapel roof, with a king-post, 
 open to the rafters, is good Dec. On 
 the N. side of the cliapel is a liuild- 
 ing now called the Infirmary— Dec, 
 with tolerable 2 -light windows. 
 From the courtyard, E. of the chapel, 
 there is an entrance leading to a 
 small crypt. (/. H. rnrlicr.) Beyond 
 Salmeston, and closely adjoining Mar- 
 gate, is Draper's Hospital, founded 
 1709 l)y a Quaker named ^Michael 
 Yokely. 10 poor persons are ac- 
 commodated here. The overseer 
 was to be a Quaker, " with a conve- 
 niencybyhis dwelling for a meeting- 
 house." The inscription over the 
 door indicates that the versifying 
 powers of the Society of Friends 
 were as yet undeveloped. 
 
 xVt Nash Court, now a farm-house, 
 1 m. S. of Margate, are .some por- 
 tions of 14th cent. work. 
 
 The excursion to the Becuh-en^ 
 (see ante) may be made from Blar- 
 gate very pleasantly by water. 
 
 Kingsgate, a pass to the sea about 
 3 m. E. of IMargate, was so called 
 from its having been in 1(J83 the 
 landing-place of Charles II. and 
 James Duke of York in their way 
 from London to Dover. Its former 
 name was St. Bartholomew's Gate. 
 No vestiges remain of the gate and 
 portcidhs which once guarded the 
 pass. Above the gate a mansion 
 was built toward the middle of the 
 last century by Henry Ijord Hollantl 
 " to reiiresent Tully's Formian Villa."' 
 " His Lordshiii," says Pennant, 
 " might truly say, 
 
 " Mea ncc Falern» 
 Tempevant vites, neque Formianre 
 Pocula coUes." 
 
 The villa was full of true antiquities, 
 and roiuid it were erected a variety of 
 false ones, which are happUy fast 
 disappearing. The " Convent," the 
 most important among them, has 
 been converted into a private resi- 
 dence. The " Castle," originally in- 
 tended for stables to the villa, has 
 shared the same fat(\ " Harley 
 Tower, built in the style of Koman 
 architecture in honour of Thomas 
 Harley, Lord Mayor of London," 
 has been considerably heightened, 
 and now serves as a landmark. 
 
 At JLiclcendoivn JBaiilcs, a short 
 distance S. of Kingsgate, 2 large 
 tumuli were long pointed out as the 
 graves of Danes and Saxons killed 
 in a fierce battle on this spot. They 
 were opened liy Lord Holland, and 
 numerous remains discovered, though 
 of what period seems micertain. The 
 circular tower which now marks tin' 
 spot was erected by Lord Holland, 
 whose inscrijition gives SOO as the 
 trachtional date of the battle. 
 
 ^ m. beyond is the North Fordand, 
 with its lighthouse, which may be 
 ascended. Tliere w:>' a rude lim-
 
 202 
 
 Route 10. — Canterhury to Dover. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 lierecl lighthouse here very early— a 
 beacon for steering clear of the 
 Goodwins. Tliis was burnt down 
 about 1GS3, wlicn the present build- 
 ing was erected. On the toji was at 
 first an iron grate, open to the air, 
 with a coal-fire. The arrangements 
 of the present lantern, with its re- 
 tlectors, and comj^aratively small 
 lights, are well worth inspecting. 
 The ancient beacon-fire eouhl hardly 
 have been so eifective as its suc- 
 cessor, which is visible at the Nore, 
 a rUstance of 30 ra. 
 
 The North Foreland is the Can- 
 tium of Ptolemy. Oft" it, June 1-4, 
 1666, occurred the great sea-fight, 
 lasting 4 days, in which the EngUsh 
 were commanded by tlie Duke of 
 Albemarle, the Dutch by De Euyter 
 and De Witt. On this occasion the 
 English fleet, of 54 sail, had encoun- 
 tered the Dutch, of SO. Victory 
 finally remained with the Dutcli, 
 vet the English lost no honour. 
 " They may be killed," said De Witt, 
 "but they will not be conquered." 
 On the 25th another action was 
 fouglit, in which the English were 
 victorious. 
 
 ROUTE 10. 
 
 FIIOM CANTERBURY, BY DEAL AND 
 WALMER, TO DOVER. 
 
 For the line from Canterbury to 
 Minster Junction, where the rail 
 branches to Margate, see Rte. 0. 
 
 Leaving Minster Junction, after 
 passing 4 m. through the marshes, 
 iind under the cliff of Richborough, 
 the wall of which is just visible as 
 the traveller flies over the ground 
 
 from which the Kutupian oysters 
 were once collected for the delight 
 of the discriuainating gourmands of 
 Rome, we reach 
 
 Sandwich (Pop. 2951— J«n, The 
 Bell), one of the earliest and most 
 important Ejiglish harboiu's, al- 
 though now distant nearly 2 m. from 
 the sea. Witliout anything very pic- 
 turesque about it, the town has a 
 strangely old-world and Plantagenet 
 character. The streets and houses 
 are so crushed together, and so in- 
 tricate, and there is such an entire 
 absence of all novelty, that the ge- 
 neral impression is very great. It 
 much resembles the less architec- 
 tural jiarts of Bruges — a likeness in- 
 creased by its large and numerous 
 churches. 
 
 The name "Sandwich" (the vil- 
 lage on the sands) fir.st occurs in 
 Eddius" ' Life of Wilfred,' who landed 
 here after preaching among the 
 Frisians about tlie year 665. The 
 town gradually rose as the old har- 
 bour of Eutui^iic became unavail- 
 able. The Danes constantly landed 
 here. Ethclred's fleet was collected 
 at Sandwich to oppose them ; and 
 about 1014 it became the most im- 
 portant Englisli harbom- — "omnium 
 Anglorum portuum famosissimus." 
 Encomitini Eninix). The port was 
 given by Canute to the monastery 
 of Christ's Church, Canterbury, luit 
 was afterwards exchanged by the 
 monks for other lands. The horoiKjlt 
 however still remained their pro- 
 jierty, and contributed 40,000 her- 
 rings " ad victum," besides clothing 
 them. Sandwich is the most ancient 
 of the Cinque Ports — probably suc- 
 ceeding to the position of the Ro- 
 man RutupicT. ; and all ports and 
 creeks on the Kentish coast are (or 
 were) members of it. (See Dover, 
 for a general notice of the Cinque 
 Ports). Becket escaped from here, 
 having remained for some days at 
 Eastry after the famous scene with 
 the king at Northampton ; and 
 landed here on his return in Dec.
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 10. — Sandinch. 
 
 203 
 
 1170, when lie was conducted in 
 triumph to Canterbury, the people 
 singing "Benedictus qui venit in 
 nomine Domini," the hymn witli 
 which Chark'magne had been re- 
 ceived in Eome as the deliverer of 
 tlie Cliurch from tlie Lombards. 
 Cceur de Lion, on landing here from 
 Antwerp after his Austrian imprison- 
 ment, proceeded on foot to Canter- 
 bury to return tlianlcs for his deli- 
 verance to God and to St. Thomas. 
 Edward III. usually sailed from here 
 for France and Flanders ; and it 
 was here that ho landed after the 
 surrender of Calais. In 144(3 the 
 recorders of the travels of the Bohe- 
 mian ambassador, Leo von Rotzmital, 
 describe Sandwich " as we might 
 speak of Liverpool or Portsmouth ' — 
 the resort of ships from all quarters 
 — vessels of every size — in which 
 the agility of tlie sailors in running 
 up and down the masts called forth 
 their especial admiration. It was 
 the custom, they say, for bands of 
 musicians to walk tlirougli the streets 
 all night long, proclaiming, at inter- 
 vals, the direction of the wind. Ten 
 years later— in 145G — the town was 
 biUTit, and nearly all the inhabitants 
 killed, by the Marshal de Bre'ze'. It 
 speedily recovered ; and the customs 
 of Sandwich, temp. Edw. IV., yielded 
 annually 17,000/. At this time it 
 had 95 ships belonging to it, and 
 1500 sailors. The haven began to 
 be difficult of access about 1500. 
 A large ship belonging to Pope 
 Paul IV., sunk at the mouth of the 
 liarbour, hastened its destruction ; 
 and, although in 1558 " a cunning 
 and expert man in waterworks " was 
 -sent for from Flanders to amend it, 
 it was quite closed in another cen- 
 tury. The town, however, had de- 
 rived fresh importance from the great 
 number of French and Flemish 
 exiles — "they whom the rod of Alva 
 bruised " — who settled here after the 
 •' troubles." They were principally 
 )>aize- workers and gardeners — and 
 the first raarket-gai'deus ever seen 
 
 in England were formed liy these 
 " gentle and profital)le strangers," 
 as Abp. Parker called them, in tho 
 neiglibourhood of Sandwich. Tluir 
 descendants were numerous, and 
 kept to their old trades in Pennant's 
 time. Sandwich celery is still much 
 esteemed ; and tlie Flemish name of 
 " polders " is still given to the re- 
 claimed marshes W. of the town. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth visited Sandwich 
 1572, when the streets were hung 
 with garlands of vine-leaves, and 
 Flemish and English children were 
 placed spinning yarn on platforms. 
 Her Majesty was "very merrie," and 
 gave commendation to the orations 
 and verses, especially to " a goldcTi 
 cup of C. lib." the most cloc[uent of 
 all. Six years later " a most tierce 
 and terrible earthciuake" is recorded, 
 which lasted "a paternoster while." 
 It shook tlie churches, but " did 
 little liarme." 
 
 Sandwich has given tlie title of 
 Earl to the Montague family since 
 ](J50-in honour of one of whom 
 (Cieorge III. s minister) its name 
 was transferred to the South Sea 
 group of islands, on their discovery 
 by Capt. Cook in 1769. The ancient 
 Custumal of Sandwich, tirst icritten 
 in 1301, Init probably of much earlier 
 date, will be found in Boyt' Hist, of 
 Saiidirieh, and is of great interest. 
 From it it appears that in tho 
 Guestliug, which falls into the Stour 
 above the town, female criminals were 
 drowned, and that adjoining it were 
 the Thief Downs (dunes?), where 
 others were buried alive : an ancient 
 German fashion, much in favour with 
 Tacitus and Mr. Carlyle. The morass 
 below the town is still called the 
 Haven ; and through it the Stour 
 winds so greatly that its course is 
 nearly 4 m. in length before reaching 
 the sea. 
 
 The town is rectangular, and 
 built on a flat elevated about 15 ft. 
 al)ove the rest of the i)lain. The 
 walls toward the river, W., were of 
 stone-, the otliers of earth. Along
 
 204 
 
 Route 10. — Sandwich. 
 
 Sect. I, 
 
 these a broad path has beeu made, 
 affording curious views over the 
 town ; which, with its garden spaces 
 and drying- lie Ids, recalls the views of 
 old Flemish cities illustrating Guicci- 
 ardini's folio. There were five gates ; 
 of which the only one remaining 
 is Fisher s Gate, towards the haven. 
 On the S. side of the town was 
 the Castle, now quite gone. It was 
 lield (1-17J i against Edward IV. by 
 Falconbridge and his followers ; 
 and was at length surrendered, to- 
 gether with 13 ships, on promise of 
 full pardon. Here the channel 
 formerly opened to the sea. At the 
 S.W. angle of the walls was a mo- 
 nastery of Carmelites, foimded temp. 
 Edw. *I. by Lord CUnton. The 
 cliurch was very fine, and in it were 
 biu-ied the principal inhaljitants of 
 Sandwich. On the dissolution it 
 was gi-anted to Arden of Faversham, 
 towards whose cairn it perhaps con- 
 tributed an additional stone, and at 
 last was entirely destroyed. 
 
 The principal ch. in Sandwich is 
 St. Cleiitcnfs, the low Norm, tower 
 of which, with an exterior arcade, is 
 seen from the station. The nave 
 and chancel are E. E. The tower is 
 central, and has an interior arcade 
 above the supporting arches. There 
 are Miserere stalls in the chancel, 
 said traditionally to have belonged to 
 a brotherhood of St. George. The 
 aisles, N. and S., are terminated by 
 chantries ; in that N. is the font (temp. 
 Hen.YII.), with arms of England and 
 France, and some cin'i(jus grotesques. 
 The roof — Tudor with gilt angels at 
 the bosses— has been restored. The 
 most conspicuous object in the ch. is 
 the mayor s seat, with the royal anus 
 above it. The pulpit is at the W. 
 end. The Flemish residents were 
 formerly allowed to have their ser- 
 vices in this ch., which well deserves 
 a visit. Urus aud other articles have 
 l)e( n found in the cliurcliyard, pro- 
 bably marking it as the site of a 
 cemetery attaclied to the neighbour- 
 ing Koman town of Kutupia). Ex- 
 
 amples of Christian churches thus 
 founded on or near the earlier hea- 
 then cemeteries are not uncommon 
 in Kent. 
 
 The steeple ot St. Peter's Church 
 fell in 1G61 and demolished the S. 
 aisle, of which the ruins remain. 
 The rest of the chancel has been 
 hideously remodelled. There are 
 many moruiments well liidden by 
 pews, of which the most important 
 is one in the N. aisle, for Thomas 
 Ellis, merchant, and his wife, about 
 1392 ; — a great benefactor to the town, 
 who founded a chantry in this ch. 
 for liimself his wife, and 23 cluldren. 
 A bell called " the brand gose " is 
 rung here daily at 1 p.m. 
 
 Nearly opposite St. Peter's is St. 
 Thomas' Hospital, founded by Thomas 
 Ellis in honour of his patron saint^ 
 Becket. It maintains 12 persons, 
 and has an ancient dining hall with 
 an early Perp. mndow, worth a visit. 
 In the corn-market is the Hospital 
 of St. John, founded before 1280. 
 Behind it was a building called the 
 " Harbinge" in wliich travellers were 
 entertained. The brothers of St. 
 John used to beg in the churches,, 
 and at the harbour in the herring 
 season. The hospital has been 
 entirely remodelled. 
 
 Without the town, on the Deal 
 road, is the liospital of St. Bartho- 
 lomew, the great patron of lepers. 
 Its age is unknown, but it is pro- 
 bably of the 12th cent. An estate of 
 ]iearly 300 acres adjoins this liospital, 
 which supports 16 brethren and 
 sisters. It was probably at first a 
 lazar-house, but afterwards (hke 
 Harbledown near Canterbury) re- 
 ceived pilgrims and travellers. The 
 knightly family of Sandwich were 
 great benefactors to it; and in its 
 chapel is the altar-tomb, with effigy, 
 of Sir Henry Sandwich, probably a 
 cenotaph, for the ground has beeu 
 searched in vain for any deposit. 
 This chapel is E. E., and interesthig. 
 Farm-buildings are raised against its 
 walls in a most unseemly fashion.
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 10. — Richhorough. 
 
 20i 
 
 At the opiJosite end of the town, 
 near the site of the Cauterbury gate, 
 is the Grammar School, founded 1563 
 by Sir Roger Mauwood, whose tomb, 
 in St. Stephen's cliureli, near Canter- 
 bury, lias already been noticed (see 
 Ete. 9). His father was a draper of 
 Sandwich, " a goodly and pleasant 
 gentleman." Sir Roger was born here 
 in 1525. The rules for the govern- 
 ment of the school are curiously 
 minute. The books to be used are 
 the " diallogs of Castillo," "thexer- 
 cises of Apthomius," " Virgills Eglogs 
 or some chaste poet," "TuUy, Cesar, 
 and Livie." The seal exhibits a 
 grave pei'sonage in a recess, with 
 iiames for hair, siirrounded by bees, 
 and young ideas in trunk hose. The 
 building is Flemish in character, with 
 crowstepped gables ; but is much de- 
 cayed, and, to judge trout externals, 
 has cause to fear the visitation of Sir 
 Roger's ghost. It is no longer used 
 for the grammar-school, which has 
 been removed further into the town. 
 Richard Knolles, who in his 'Hist. 
 of tlie Turks' (first printed 1610) 
 displayed in Johnson's opinion " all 
 the excellences that narration can 
 admit," was placed here by Sir Roger 
 himself as the 3rd master, and wrote 
 his liistoiy here. 
 
 Some architectural fragments in 
 the town deserve attention. " The 
 wood-carving on a house in Strai>d 
 Street maybe esjieeially pointed out ; 
 and another ancient house in tlie same 
 street, said to have been occupied by 
 Queen Elizabeth when she visited 
 this town in 1572, contains a room of 
 that period, with an exti-aordinarily 
 fine carved cliinniey-piece. In a 
 house in Luclcshoot Street there are 
 22 i)anels in oak, witJi very spirited 
 carvings of grotesque heads, supposed 
 to be of tlie time of Henrv VHI." 
 (H'V/;////.) 
 
 Before or after visiting Rich- 
 borough, which must be done from 
 this place, the archaeologist should 
 endeavour to see the very important 
 collections of W. H. Itolfe, Esq., 
 
 whose residence is in the town. 
 Many of these have been figured in 
 Mr. R. Smith's 'Antiquities of Rich- 
 borough' and in the ' Collectanea 
 Antiqua ;' but there is a deep hi- 
 terest in examining the actual objects 
 close to the spots from which they 
 have been restored to light after 
 their 1500 years' slumber. Among 
 the principal relics are some fine 
 Samian ware from Richborough and 
 Reculver, some early glass of great 
 rarity, and a crowd of Saxon weapons 
 and ornaments from the cemeteries- 
 (at Ash and elsewhere) of the first 
 Saxon colonists. It is principally to 
 ]Mr. Rolfe that we are indebted for 
 the researches lately undertaken at 
 Richborough, Osengall, and elsewhere 
 in Kent, witii such very interesting- 
 results. His collection (if it be not 
 already gone) is destined to join that 
 made liy tlie Rev. Bryan Faussett of 
 H( i^pington, also from Kentisli ceme- 
 teries, and which, having been re- 
 jected by the British Museum, is 
 now in the hands of Mr. Mayer of 
 Liveii^ool. Together they will form 
 the most important and instructive 
 collection which exists of Roman- 
 Britisli and Saxon antiquities. 
 
 EichhoroKgh itself, the ancient 
 Rutupio', and perhaps the most 
 strikuig relic of old Rome existing 
 in Britain, lies about 1 m. N. of 
 Sandwich. All that lias been ascer- 
 tained respecting it will be found in 
 Mr. Roach Smith's excellent ' An- 
 tiquities of Itichhorough, Jieculver. 
 and Lymne.' (J. R. Smith, 1850.) 
 Rutupias was the favourite Roman 
 landing-place (sfatio tranquilla it is 
 called by Ammian), in crossing from 
 the opposite coast of Boulogne. 
 (Bononia). Hence the whole dis- 
 trict became known as the " Littns 
 Rutupinum "—a word which to un- 
 tra veiled Roman ears suggested the 
 delicate "natives," ancestors of the 
 Whitstable and Margate oysters of 
 our own d;iy, whose birthplace was 
 at once recognised by learned gas- 
 tronomers, such as the Montanus of 
 
 L 3
 
 206 
 
 Route 10. — Richlorough. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Juvenal—" Ciiccis ntita forcnt an 
 Lucriiium ad saxuni, Rutiipiiiove 
 edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo 
 dcprcndere raorsu." {Juv. S. iv. 139). 
 The name first occurs in Lucan's 
 riiarsalia (a.d. 39-05) -" vaga cum 
 Tcthys Itutupinaqne littora fervent" 
 — in allusion to the fierce storms 
 which then, as now, swept along 
 the Kentish coast, — and for the last 
 tune in the Notitia (a.d. 400-450), 
 where tlie Lcgio Secunda Augusta is 
 said to have been removed here from 
 Chester. Between these periods it 
 is mentioned liy Ammianus Blar- 
 cellinus, who sa3-s tliat Lupicinus 
 landed here temp. Julian, to repel 
 the Picts and Scf)ts, and that Theo- 
 dosius entered Britain by the same 
 route to expel the Saxons. Auso- 
 nius three times refers to it, once as 
 the bin-ial-place of one of liis uncles — 
 " Contentum, tellus quem Eutupina 
 tegit " — and gives the name of "Ku- 
 tupine robber," " Eutupinus latro," 
 to Maximus, whom the legions in 
 Britain (a.d. 383) had invested witli 
 the supreme command. In the Iti- 
 neraries, and by the geographer of 
 Eavenna, Eutupi;c is duly recorded. 
 Until the northern barbarians began 
 to Infest the " Saxon shore," Eutupi;c 
 and Kent generally seem to liave re- 
 mained in great cj,iiict and prosperity. 
 After this period, when, on account 
 of their incursions, the legions in 
 Britain had been collect( cl in tlie 
 stations along the great wall, and in 
 the fortresses of the S. and E. coasts 
 of Britain, the Eutupine coast must 
 have been the scene of many im- 
 portant events, of which tlie details 
 have unfortunately been lost to us. 
 The epitliet of Ausonius indicates 
 how closely tlie career of Maximus 
 had been connected with it ; and at a 
 later period the fleet of Carausius, tlie 
 "Archipirata" (a.d. 287-293), imist 
 have been well acquainted with its 
 harbour. Coins of both " usurpers" 
 have been found at Eichborough ; and 
 the (tamp gate on the reverse of those 
 of Maximus no doubt alludes to the 
 
 great fortified castra, such as Eich- 
 borough, Eeculver, and Lymne, 
 erected along the coast to repel the 
 l)arbarians. EutupisB was held "by 
 the famous second legion, whose 
 " Capricorn " so often occui's at 
 Ciiestcr and in Northumberland, 
 and the "Yir spectabilis," the Count 
 of the Saxon Shore, reckoned it undei- 
 his " disposition," together with the 
 other fortresses of liis fhstrict. 
 
 There was a " Castellum " at Eu- 
 tupiai very early, as coins found 
 there prove ; but the last of the 
 Romans who put the island into an 
 eftectual state of defence was the 
 great Stilicho ; and it has been sug- 
 gested (Quarterly Eeview,yol. xcvii.) 
 that the remains we now see may be 
 indelited to him for some portion 
 of their long enduring massiveness. 
 Clavulian's lines Anil thus be read 
 with interest on the spot. 
 
 " Me quoque vicinis pereuntem gentibus, In- 
 quit (i. e. Brit.) 
 Munivit Slilicho, totam cumScotus lerricn 
 IMovit, et iiii't sto t^pumavit rouiige Telhys. — 
 lUius effectian ciiris ne tela timerem 
 Scotica, ne rittum tremerem, neu litore toto 
 Prospiccrtm dubiis venturum .^'axmia 
 
 VLJltiS." 
 
 Thus prepared to be called back 
 uito the world of Eoman Britahi, we 
 may find our way to Eichborough 
 along the Canterlniiy road, from 
 whicli we turn off by a path skirting 
 tlie Stour, and marked by some wind- 
 mills. Tlie walls are in view the whole 
 way, and on the higliest point of the 
 hili on the 1. was the ancient amphi- 
 theatre. At the commencement of 
 the clitf, the road divides, and " the 
 pedestrian can either proceed by the 
 side of the railway, between the clitf 
 and the river, or cross the raihva}% 
 and ascend the hill to the S. wall." 
 The first is perhaps the most im- 
 pressive approach, opening at once 
 on the great N. wall, the best pre- 
 served portion of tlie structure. This 
 is aliout 4(50 ft. in length, 30 ft. high 
 on the exterior in some places, and 
 in others 20 ft. The masses of ruin
 
 Kext. 
 
 Route 10. — Itichhorough. 
 
 207 
 
 passed in ascoiidiiig to it from tlie 
 river are those of a return wall now 
 quite overthrown, and of a tower and 
 buttress, near the anple of the cliff. 
 At the oppociite N.W. angle, are 
 the remains of a circular tower ; 
 and there were originally 2 square 
 towers on this side of the castruni, 
 nearly equidistant from the circular 
 corner towers, and from a postern in 
 the centre. (The general character of 
 the square towers will perhaps bo 
 best seen in the W. wall, where one 
 remains in more entire preservation.) 
 The great wall at the postern is 10 ft. 
 8 in. thick ; the entrance wallG ft. 4. 
 In the W. wall the principal opening 
 is the Decuman gate, where a com- 
 plete stone pavement, long since re- 
 moved, was laid oj^en towards the 
 middle of last cent., by Boys, the 
 liistorian of Sandwich : beyond it, S., 
 are the remains of a square tower. 
 These square towers, throughout the 
 fortress, were " solid to the extent 
 of nearly 8 ft. from the foundation, 
 liollow in the centre, and united 
 to the mahi wall again at the top. 
 It is probable that they contained a 
 room, with loopliolcs for watchers. 
 The holes in the main wall, within 
 these towers, seem to have served 
 for the insertion of timber." (C. R. 
 Smith.) At the S.W. comer of tlie 
 W. wall was a circular tower, of whicli 
 only the foundation remains ; the 8. 
 wall has a square tower toward the 
 centre. There was no wall toward 
 the cliff, which itself served as a pro- 
 tection. The external facing is most 
 ))erfect in the N. wall, and is fonned 
 of regular coui-ses of squared grit and 
 Portland stone, bonded at irregular 
 intervals by doul)le rows of large flat 
 tdes made of well-tempered clay. 
 These do not extcTid into the wall 
 beyond the widtli of a single tile, or at 
 most a couple. At the postern gate 
 they are relieved at the angles b}' 
 .short intermediate courses of red and 
 yellow tiles. Internally, the facing 
 was chiefly conqiosed of flints. It 
 Jias been mucli destroyed ; but a 
 
 tolerably good fragment rcmam.s 
 near the N.W. corner. The great 
 body of the wall consists of layera 
 of Ijoulder.s, .sandstone, &c., arranged 
 with much precision, and cemented 
 with mortar formed of hmc, grit, sea- 
 slulls, and pounded tiles. 
 
 Within the area, not far from the 
 N.E. corner, a ridge in the form of a 
 cross will be observed, rising slightly 
 above the ground. This is the mark 
 of a superstructure which has en- 
 tirely di.sappeared, and which was 
 based on a solid rectangidar platform 
 of masonry, underground, 144 ft. long, 
 104 ft. wide, and 5 ft. thick. Beneath 
 this platfomi is an extensive sub- 
 terranean building, an examination 
 of which has been attempted, but 
 hitherto without success. " Nothing 
 at all analogous to it has been dis- 
 covered at any of the Roman stations 
 in this country, or as far as can be 
 asccrtamed, on the continent.' It 
 has been suggested that it was used 
 as an arsenal for arms, or as a store- 
 house for corn : but xnitil it has been 
 opened, nothing can be determined 
 with any certainty. The cross above 
 may have Iteen the foundation of a 
 sacellum or chapel. It was long- 
 called " St. Augustine's Cross," pos- 
 .sibly from some tradition of the re- 
 ception of Augustine here bv King 
 Ethell)ert. 
 
 It must be carefully remembered 
 that Kutujiiaj was not a large walled 
 city like Duroverniun (Canterbury) 
 or London, but oidy a strong frtmlier 
 fortress. The ancient arrangement 
 of buildings witliin the walls it is 
 impossible to determine. Fragments 
 of pillars ani cornices, in a fine white 
 marble, and of mural painting, have 
 been found ; and the whole ground 
 withinaud around is still strewed with 
 pieces of tiles and broken pottery. 
 There were probably numerous villas 
 without the walls ; the foundations of 
 one of which were laid bare iii cutting 
 the railway below the chff. For 
 engravings and notices of the inon^ 
 important discoveries the reader
 
 208 
 
 Route 1 . — Ricliborough . — Ash . 
 
 Sect. T, 
 
 iuu8t be refeiTod to Siiiitlrs ' An- 
 tiquities   already noticed. The 
 sjreater portion of articles there 
 ligurcd are preserved in Mr. Eolfe's 
 cabinet at Sandwich. It has been 
 i-alculated that not less than 140,000 
 coins have been found at Kiclibo- 
 rough at different periods. Of those 
 described by Mr. Smith, the greater 
 number belong to the 10 years 
 (287-297) during which the island 
 maintained its independence luidcr 
 Carausius and Allectus, — when Eu- 
 tupias was no doubt a place of great 
 importance and much frequented. 
 
 On the highest point of the hill, 
 about 460 yards from the S.W. angle 
 of the castrura, are the remains of 
 a castrcnsian amphitheatre, now 
 covered with earth, but laid com- 
 pletely open by Mr. Eolfe in 1S49. It 
 was walled, and formed an ellipse, the 
 longer diameter measuring 200 ft., the 
 shorter 1(3G. There were 3 entrances, 
 N. S. fmd W. On the ruined wall of 
 the W. entrance a skeleton was found, 
 with a brass coui of Constantine imder 
 the right hand. Standing here, where 
 athletes and glathators once delighted 
 tlie shouting soldiers, the imagina- 
 tion, in sijite of the ploughs lying 
 •quietly under the liollows of the 
 broken walls, or of the wheat-field 
 that closes up round them, may restore 
 the fortress, see the glittering helmets 
 and eagles of the legionaries sweep 
 out from its gates, or look down upon 
 the tall triremes at rest in the har- 
 bour below. Ilegulbinm (Keculver), 
 the sister castle, is M'ithin sight, and 
 far over the sea are the hazy cliffs of 
 Gessoriacum (Boulogne). The site 
 is still, as Leland describes it, " won- 
 derful fair," but must have been 
 far more so when tlie sea swept up 
 on one side toward Sandwich, and on 
 the other toward lieculver ; thus 
 leaving Eutupiaj at the point of the 
 promontory, still indicated by its high 
 ground and cliff. 
 
 The Wailing Street, proceeding 
 eastward IVcmi Cantcrbur)', touched 
 the sea in the neiglibourhood of 
 
 Eutupia) — probably on the Sandwich 
 side of the fortress. Besides Eomau 
 relics, ranging over the whole 400 
 years of their occupation, Saxon 
 coins and personal ornaments, clasps 
 and fibula, have been found at Eich- 
 borough, indicating the continued 
 occupation of the j^lace by the new 
 conquerors. There was a chapel and 
 hermitage witliin the walls in Le- 
 land's time, now quite gone. This 
 chapel, dedicated to St. Augustine, 
 was perhaps a more direct memorial 
 tlian the name of " St. Augustine's 
 Cross,' of the reception of the Eomau 
 missionaries here by Ethelbert after 
 the meeting in the Isle of Thanet. 
 From Eichborough they advanced to 
 Canterbury along the line of the 
 Watling Street. (See Stanley's 
 H. M., p. 19.) Nearly opposite the 
 Dcciunan gate of the castle is seen 
 the spire oi Ash 67; mtc/?, which serves 
 as a landmark. The eh. itself is 
 E. E. and very fine. The tower is 
 central. Some judicious restorations 
 have lately been made here ; and 
 there is a good E. window by Wille- 
 ment. There are 2 altar-tombs and 
 some brasses. The effigy of an un- 
 known knight (temp. Edw. II.) on 
 one of the altar-tombs is of great 
 interest, since it affords an example 
 of the gradual change from mail to 
 plate-armour. Instead of a mail 
 hauberk, several successive plates of 
 steel are riveted on a tunic of cloth 
 which reaches nearly to the knees. 
 The gauntlets are formed in the 
 same way ; and between them and 
 the elbows appear tlie sleeves of the 
 leather hauketon. The short surcoat 
 is also an early example. Meyrick 
 assigns the date lo20 to this e'ffigy. 
 Here, at Ash, was one of the earliest 
 Saxon settlements. At Giltou in 
 this parish a Saxon burial-ground 
 was long since discovered, from 
 which personal ornaments, weapons, 
 and other relics of the highest in- 
 terest, have been, and are still, 
 disinterred. Many of these are in 
 Mr. Eolfe's cabinet. They are all
 
 Kent, 
 
 Route 10. — Wingliam. — Deal. 
 
 209 
 
 of the pagan Saxon period, indicat- 
 ing considerable artistic skill, and 
 some imitation of Eome. Douglas's 
 'Nenia Britannica " (1793) first drew 
 attention to tliis spot. 
 
 [About 2 m. S. of Asli, Wodensbo- 
 rovgh, on a height " throwing down 
 various small streams N. and S. into 
 the Stourandthe sea " (Keinhle), was 
 probably selected for tliis reason as a 
 sacred Saxon site. There is here a re- 
 markable earthen mound, adjoining 
 the ch. ; and Saxon sepulchral re- 
 mains have been fomitl in the neigh- 
 boxu-hood. 
 
 Eastrij (3 m. from Sandwich) has 
 a large E. E. ch. with some Norm, 
 portions. It belonged to Ch. Ch., 
 Canterbury, and Becket lay con- 
 cealed here for some days before 
 his flight. The mmxler of the Saxon 
 princes, buried under King Egbert's 
 throne (see Minster, Ete. G), is placed 
 here by Matthew of Westminster, in- 
 tlicating at least the traditional im- 
 portance of Eastry. 
 
 At Wuigham (2 m. from Ash) is a 
 large Dec. and Perp. ch. in a sad 
 state of dirt and wliitewash. Abp. 
 Peckham founded here a college for 
 a provost and 6 canons ; and some 
 remains of the collegiate buildings 
 may be traced opposite the church- 
 yard in " Canon Eow,' where the 
 village inn, mth a remarkable gable 
 and bargeboard, apparently formed 
 part of them. The S. chancel is 
 filled Avith an elaborate moniiment 
 for the Oxenden family of Dcane, 
 a singular structure, consisting of a 
 pyramid with despairing cherubs 
 at the base, whose hideous faces 
 and very large tears are worth 
 notice. In the ch. (1360) Ehza- 
 beth, daughter of the Marquis of 
 Juhers, and widow of John Plau- 
 tagenet, was manied to Sir Eustace 
 Dabrieschescourt. The lady had 
 taken the veil at Waverley, and for 
 this breach of her vows was con- 
 demned daily to repeat the 7 peni- 
 tential psalms and the 15 gra duals, 
 once even' vear to visit the shrine of 
 
 St. Thomas at Canterbury, and once 
 every week to wear no "camisia," 
 and to eat nothing but bread and f» 
 mess of pottage. This penance she 
 endured 51 years. Her story was 
 made the subject of an indifferent 
 paper in ' The World,' by Horace 
 Walpole.] 
 
 On the bank of the Stour, oppo- 
 site Eichborough, a farndiouse indi- 
 cates the site oi' Stonar (i^erliaps the 
 Lapis Tituli of Nennius). The town 
 was destroyed by the French in 1385. 
 
 In the marshes through which the 
 railroad passes after leaving Minster 
 are patches of a large reed grass- 
 used for thatching and sometimes 
 for fences. The effect of the long 
 pointed leaf in masses, with its grace- 
 ful tassel of seed, is very beautiful, 
 and the breeze sweeps through these 
 Midas plots with a most musical 
 "susun-us." 
 
 5 m. from Sandwich is Deal (Pop. 
 1000—Iiuis: Eoyal Hotel, Fomitam), 
 at which point the rail ceases. Deal 
 rose into importance as a harbour as 
 Sandwich declined ; there is conse- 
 quently nothing of any great anti- 
 quity in the lower town, adjoinmg 
 the pier, which is of much later date 
 than Upper Deal, on the hill above, 
 the original village. The church of 
 Uj^per Deal has some Norm, frag- 
 ments. That of Lower Deal is a 
 Queen Anne stracture of the most 
 barbaric character. St. Antlrew's 
 Church, in West Street, was com- 
 pleted in 1850. The " General 
 Baptists' Chapel " is so far a curi- 
 osity that it is said to have been built 
 by Samuel Tavernor, govenior of 
 Deal Castle throughout the period of 
 the Commonwealth. By Charles II. 
 he was employed to carry out the 
 laws against dissenters, but was him- 
 self converted, and baptized in the 
 Delf at San<lwicli, 1G63. 
 
 The historical memorials of Deal 
 (passing by Caesar's landing for the 
 present) are scanty. Perkiu Warbeck 
 landed here in 1495, and was de- 
 feated bv the men of Sandwich : in
 
 210 
 
 Route 10.— Deal Castle. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 1540 Anne of Clfves was received 
 in the castle after her voyage ; and it 
 was at Deal tliat Queen Adelaide 
 first set her foot on British ground. 
 In Pennant's time Deal was entirely 
 supported by the sliipping in the 
 Downs, and " every shop was filled 
 with punch - bowls and drinking- 
 glasses." Its long narrow streets are 
 now somewhat better supplied, and, 
 together with the adjoining village 
 of Walmer, it has iiumerous smnmer 
 visitors. 
 
 Deal Castle, like the castles of 
 Sandown and Walmer, was one of 
 the " platforms and blockhouses " 
 built along tlie coast by Henry 
 VIII. in 1539, when it seemed pro- 
 bable that England would have to 
 .stand singlehandcd against a com- 
 bination of tlio great continental 
 powers. Tlie king himself, at much 
 personal inconvenience, rode along 
 the coast to hasten their completion. 
 They are all alike, and consist of a 
 central keep or circular tower, sur- 
 rounded by 4 roimd bastions. Both 
 at Deal and at Walmer there are 
 nmuerous modern additions. The 
 captain of Deal Castle is a])pointed 
 by the Lord Warden. Scuidoicn 
 Castle aboTit -^ m. N. of Deal has a 
 higher interest. Here "after 11 
 months' harsh and strict imprison- 
 ment " (only a part of which, how- 
 ever, was passed at Sandown), "with- 
 out crime or accusation," died Colonel 
 Hutchinson, Sept. 11, 1GG4. It is 
 still, as then, a "lamentable old 
 iiiined place, not weather-proof, 
 unwholesome and damp," the sea 
 in front, and the dreary marsh 
 land toward Sandwich stretcliing 
 away behind it. " Wien no other 
 recreations were left him he di- 
 verted himself with sorting and 
 .shadowing cockle-shells, which Ids 
 ■wife and daughter gathered for him, 
 with as much delight as he used 
 to take in the nchest agates and 
 onyxes he could compass, A\-ith the 
 most artificinl engravings." (3/e- 
 jjioirs by his Wife.) We may recall 
 
 there at night 
 and 
 
 liis grave figure, sucli as it appears 
 in the well-known portrait, with 
 long unpuritanical liair falling over 
 liis shoulders, slowly pacing the 
 beach, where at last he obtained 
 leave to walk, and intenningling 
 his discourse " of the public con- 
 cernments" with sundry prophe- 
 cies of the downfall of the Stuarts, 
 and confusion of the " serpentine 
 seed " of the Cavaliers. " The place 
 had killed him," certified the doc- 
 tors. The conveyance in which the 
 colonel was brought to Sandown, his 
 chair, and a so-called portrait, are still 
 shown in the castle. Mrs. Hutchinson 
 was not adniitttd permanently to the 
 castle, but had to remain in "that 
 cut-throat town of Deal " at an 
 excessive chai'ge, walking back 
 with liorriide toil 
 niconvenience." With the 
 black shadow thus cast on Deal 
 nuist be contrasted the reputation 
 conferred on the place by IMrs. 
 Elizalieth Carter, the translatress of 
 Epictetu.s, whose really jarofomid 
 Greek learning excited the admira- 
 tion of Dr. Johnson, — none the less 
 because " she could make a pudding 
 as well as translate Epictetus, and 
 work a handkerchief as well as com- 
 pose a poem." She was l)orn (1717) 
 and lived here, passijig throughout 
 all the neighbouring villages for a 
 "cmming gentlewoman," who rivalled 
 Francis Moore in her powers of fore- 
 telling future events. In her house 
 (now judled down) was a portrait of 
 the learned lady " in the costume ap- 
 jiropriated to Minerva." {Metnoirs 
 by llev. T. Pennington.) 
 
 Between the town of Deal and the 
 castle are the naval yard, of no 
 great importance, the custom-house, 
 watch-house, and the ijilot-house. 
 Beyond the castle commences the 
 village of Walmer, which, like Deal, 
 has its upper and lower towais. 
 I^ovver Walmer lies along the beach ; 
 and at the S. end has some very 
 l)leasant houses. As a quiet bathing 
 l)lace, it is much preferable to the
 
 Kent. 
 
 lioide 10. — IVabner. — Kingsdoim. 
 
 211 
 
 larger towns on the coast (there 
 is no good hotel, however, nearer 
 than Deal). The naval hospital, 
 on the rt. after passing Deal Castle, 
 has accommodation for 250 patients. 
 The barracks, beyond, were bnilt 
 in 1795, when the coast seemed 
 to demand some more etfective pro- 
 tection than Henry YIII.s "worm- 
 eaten " castles. They are arranged 
 for 1100 infantry and a troop of 
 horse. St. Saviour's Chapel was 
 completed in 1849. Walmer Castle, 
 to which the visitor's attention 
 is first turned, the official resi- 
 dence of the great duke as Lord 
 Warden, and the spot where (Sept. 
 14, 1852) "tanti viri mortalitas magis 
 (piam vita iinita est, ' lies about 5 m. 
 l)eyond St. Saviour's. The interior 
 is only shown M'lien the castle is un- 
 occupied. 
 
 "Walmer, like Deal and Sandown, 
 is one of Henry VIII. "s block- 
 liouses, but has been greatly altered, 
 although the original plan is still 
 traceable. It was early assigned to 
 the Lord Wardens of theCinque Ports 
 ;is an oflicial residence ; and the Duke 
 of Wellington, after succeeding Lord 
 Liverpool as warden in 1829, re- 
 gularly spent the autumn mouths 
 here. The window of the end turret, 
 farthest from Deal, is that of the 
 room in which he died. Tlie sea 
 views from the windows of tlie prin- 
 cipal apartments, and from the ])Iat- 
 ibrm in front, are veiy tine. The 
 moat has been converted into a 
 kitchen garden ; and at .the back 
 .stretches up a long plantation of 
 beeches and sycamores, made by 
 Mr. Pitt, and showing evident signs 
 of battles with the sea winds. They 
 protect, however, some very fine 
 evergreens, including a laurestinus 
 of remarkable size,and laurels worthy 
 of the garden of a hero. From tlie 
 midst of the turf rise two slioots from 
 Napoleon's weeping willow at St. 
 Helena, planted liy the Dulce hinr- 
 Hclf, and carefully watchi'd ))y Jiini. 
 
 "Within the castle (the furniture of 
 
 which has been altered since the 
 Duke's deatli) a small room is shown 
 iu which William Pitt, then Lord 
 Warden, is said to have, held frequent 
 conferences witli Lord Nelson, whilst 
 the fleet lay in the Downs. 
 
 A footpath along the beach, gay 
 with the yellow flowers of the horned 
 poppy, leads to Kingsdown, a decayed 
 "member" of the Cinque Port of 
 Dover, picturesquely situated under 
 the clitls, wliich recommence here. 
 St. John's Chapel, above it, was com- 
 pleted in 1850. Its erection and en- 
 dowment are entirely due to William 
 Curling, Esq., whose residence i.s 
 opposite. Some indistinct traces of 
 an intrenchment in the valley here 
 are said by Darrell to have been 
 formerly called " Roman Codde," 
 wliieh he is pleased to interpret 
 " Eomanorum fortitude." It is pos- 
 sible that Mr. Sorrow's Romanye 
 friends may have known more of the 
 matter. Small pieces of amber are 
 found on the beach here, and on that 
 of tlie Isle of Thanet, after a gale. 1 
 
 The scene from Deal and Walmer 
 
 beach — and yet more so where the 
 
 chtfs recommence at Ivingsdown — 
 
 is always grand and impressive. 
 
 The Downs, " the safest and most 
 
 commocUous roadstead in the world," 
 
 lie in front, generally crowded with 
 
 merchantmen, and not often without 
 
 some specimen of those " brave 
 
 navies " 
 
 " From floating cannons' thuiuleving throatcs 
 that all the world defye." 
 
 Beyond is seen the fringe of breakers 
 along the perilous Goodwins. ^. 
 are the cliti's of Tlianet, and Peg- 
 well Bay with its memories of Augus- 
 tine and the Saxons ; and opi)osite 
 stretches away the French coast, 
 from the " Noirmottes " above Calais 
 to the heights beyond Boulogne — the 
 old country of the Morini — with its 
 chalk cliffs of Blanez and Grisnez ; 
 the sight of which brings crowding 
 back on the mind all the eventful 
 story from the day when the oars of 
 the Roman galleys first flashed iu
 
 212 
 
 Ro-xte 10. — The Doions. — The Goodwins. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 the smisliine across the narrow strait, 
 to that (August, 1850) on whieli 
 the cable of the electric telegraph 
 attached the ".fines terrarum " of the 
 Britons to the great world opposite. 
 The coast of the Pas de Calais has 
 undergone at least as much cliange 
 as that of Kent ; but the Portus 
 Iccius, from which Caesar sailed, cer- 
 tainly lay within sight opposite, and 
 probably .stretched up under the 
 Noirmottes as far as St. Omer. 
 Stanthug on the beach at Walmer, 
 it is not a little interesting to 
 have at once before us the points 
 both of departure and of arrival ; 
 for it was in all probability on this 
 low coast, between Kingsdown and 
 Thanet, that Cresar's first landing 
 was made — the first great landmark 
 in the history of Britain, which was 
 thus Itronght within the pale of 
 the Roman world. Professor Airey 
 {Archxologia, xxxv.) has brought for- 
 ward some interesting arguments for 
 fixing the landing at Pevensey. Tlie 
 shore near Folkestone, and the coast 
 of Romney Marsh, have also been 
 suggested. But the weight of evi- 
 flence stiU seems in favour of Deal, 
 which, although the coast has much 
 altered, must always have been " in 
 piano et aperto littore." 
 
 The Bourns, l)etween the break- 
 water of the Goodwins and the shore 
 — the largest natural harboirr of re- 
 fuge existing — are 8 m. in length and 
 6 wide, containing about 20 m. of 
 good anchorage. No doubt they are 
 " a down bed to repose in," as Defoe 
 suggests ; biit the name is derived 
 from the dunes or sand-heaps of the 
 Goodwins and the shore. They are 
 well protected from PI W. and N., 
 but are unsafe under a high S. wind ; 
 and a " Deal gale," such as howled 
 along the Rutupine shores in Lucan's 
 time, generally sends ashore manj' 
 of the lesser craft. The Downs vary 
 in depth from 4 to 12 fathoms. In 
 many parts are overfalls and sands — 
 as tlic Brake, the Quern, &c. — dry 
 wholly or parlially at low water. 
 
 The famous Goodwins — " a very 
 dangerous flat and fatal, where the 
 carcases of many a tall ship lie 
 buried" {Merck, of Venice') — extend- 
 ing about 9 m. between the 2 fore- 
 lands, run nearly parallel with the 
 coast. They consist of 2 j^^rts, 
 divided in tlie middle by 4 narrow 
 channels, about 2 fathoms deep ; 
 one of which, called " the Swash," 
 is navigable in fine weather. E. of 
 the N. Goodwin is a bank of chalk — 
 a more substantial fragment of Earl 
 Godwin's Lomea than the sands 
 themselves : — 
 
 " AVhere oft by mariners are shown 
 (Unless the men of Kent are liars) 
 Earl Godwin's castles overflown. 
 
 And palace roofs, and steeple spires."' 
 
 Whatever may have been their ori- 
 gin, they are probably older than 
 either Earl Godwin or Tenterden 
 steeple. There is no early notice of 
 any island in this jjlace, though it is 
 not impossible tliat more than one 
 change may have taken place here 
 during the many inundations wliicli 
 liave swept over this, and the oppo- 
 site Flemish, coasts. Sir C. Lyell 
 .suggests that the last remains of an 
 island, consisting, like Sheppey, of 
 clay, may have been carried away by 
 the great flood of 1099, recorded by 
 the Saxon Chronicle. {Principles of 
 Geology, i. 409.) The sands are 
 completely covered at high water. 
 At low tiiey may be walked upon 
 with safety, except in certain ominous, 
 lake-like places, the especial pro- 
 perty of the water-nixes. 
 
 Seamen assert that if a sliip of the 
 largest size were to strike on the 
 Goodwins she would be completely 
 swallowed up liy tlie fj[uicksands in a 
 few days. The bank consists in 
 reality of 15 ft. of sand, resting on 
 blue clay — a fact which seems to 
 prove that it is a remnant of land 
 and not a mere acciunulation of sea- 
 sand. {Lyell.) 
 
 A lighthouse and 2 beacons on 
 the Goodwins have been successive!}' 
 erected and destroyed since 1841.
 
 Kent, 
 
 Route 10. — Great Mongeham. — Korthhourne. 
 
 2V6 
 
 Two floating lights now mark the 
 N. and S. heads of the sands, and 
 another is fixed at the Gull stream 
 — the main passage into the Nortli 
 Sea. The Calais liglit and tlie re- 
 volving light at Boulogne are also 
 visible from the beach, as are those 
 of the North and South Forelands. 
 
 The most memorable case of ship- 
 wreck on tlie Goodwins took place 
 dm-ing the great storm of Nov., 
 1703, which lasted 14 days ; during 
 its greatest -vnoleuce (the night of 
 the 26th) 13 men-of-war were lost 
 on the sands, and nearly the whole 
 of their crews perished. Many East 
 Indiamen have been wrecked on 
 them ; but the number of vessels lost 
 or damaged here bears no proportion 
 to those which pass in safety ; and 
 " the improvements in navigation, the 
 use of chain-cables, and the applica- 
 tion of steam-power, have rendered 
 these sands much less formidable 
 than formerly." Rockets thrown up 
 from the lightboats at the sands are 
 the signals tliat some vessel lias struck 
 on them ; and such calls for help are 
 instantly responded to by the boat- 
 men of the coast, who, loimgers on 
 ordinary occasions, start into activity 
 at tlie approach of a storm. Tlic 
 number of lives annually saved by 
 these boats, " admirably "handled by 
 their hardy crews," is very great. It 
 is, indeed, tiiie that they look upon 
 the wreck itself as their own pro- 
 perty ; but there are few among 
 them who might not appropriate the 
 epitaph of George Pliilpott in Deal 
 Church : — 
 
 " Full many lives he saved with his un- 
 daunted crew. 
 He put his trust in Providence, and cared 
 not how it blew." 
 
 All along the coast these boatmen 
 are known by the name of liovellers ; 
 110 doubt a corruption of hobelers, 
 tlie ancient name of tlie light-armed 
 English cavalry, from the hohhij or 
 small horse ridden by them. Thus 
 the light boats of the Deal seamen 
 were their hobbies. The shore life 
 
 of the liovellers is scarcely without 
 reproach. In fine weatlier" tliey re- 
 main altogether idle and inactive ; 
 and are only roused to exertion 
 by the occurrence of wliat the old 
 Coruishmen used to call a " provi- 
 dential " wreck. 
 
 [The country landward of Deal 
 is comparatively liare and unpic- 
 turesque ; yet it is interesting as 
 ha\-ing been (together with Thanet) 
 the first portion of Brittun colonised 
 by the invading Saxons, of whose 
 early settlements it still contains 
 nmuerous traces. Besides liurial- 
 groimds of the heathen period (as 
 Ash, Osengall, &c.), some of the 
 churches are remarkably placed 
 witliin ancient entrenchments (Wal- 
 mer, Coldred, &c.), and otliers have 
 close adjoining them lofty earthen 
 moinids (Wodne.sborough, Coldred), 
 possibly marking the sites of early 
 mark or hundred courts. 
 
 Of the churches themselves, the 
 most interesting in tlie neighbour- 
 hood of Deal are Great Mongeham 
 and Northbourne. Great Mongeham^ 
 2 m. from Deal, is mainly E. E., with 
 a later tower, comniantling a wide 
 view over the countiy. This ch. 
 has lately been restored by Butter- 
 field. The chancel sedilia are worth 
 notice. 
 
 Great ^Mongeham (Monk-ham) be- 
 longed to St. Augustine's, Canter- 
 bury. Some remains of brick and 
 flint walls near the W. door of the 
 ch. indicate the site of an ancient 
 mansion belonging to the family of 
 Craj-tbrd, whose monuments still re- 
 main in the ch. 
 
 1 m. beyond Great Mongeham is 
 Norlhhourne, wliich the archaeologist 
 will find well worth a visit. The 
 " burn " from which it derives its 
 name falls into the Stour at Sand- 
 wich. Tlie manor was granted by 
 Eadbald (U18) to St. Augustine's, by 
 which monastery the ch. was of 
 course erected. This (detlicated to 
 St. Augustine) is E. E. of very in- 
 teresting character, with a tower at
 
 nu 
 
 Route 10. — Northhoarne. — Upper Walmer. 
 
 Sect. L 
 
 tlie intersection of nave and chancel. 
 At the E. end of chancel are 3 
 lights, one above another, the nj)per- 
 most in the roof, and circular. 
 AVithin, the lowest light is placed 
 within a recessed arch, having pilas- 
 ters at the angles. Above this arch 
 is the second light. The piscina is 
 triangular-headed. The tower arches 
 are circular — except that opening to 
 the nave, which is pointed, with a 
 zigzag moulding— and have a broad 
 reversed trefoil on the capitals of the 
 lower ])ilasters. The windows are 
 trefoil-headed within, and broadly 
 .splayed; flush without. The door of 
 the S. porch, with t,ympanum and 
 zigzag moulding, has the mason's 
 jnark on one of the stones. 
 
 In the S. transept (which is later 
 and has a curious S. window) is the 
 tomb of Sir Edwin Sandys and his 
 wife, second son of the Abp. of York 
 (1G29). Both are recumbent cftigies 
 in white marble, and very good. 
 
 Northbourne Court lies below the 
 ch. It was at one time among the 
 greatest ornaments of this part of 
 Kent, and its gardens, carefully 
 tended by the monks, " rose into 
 divers terraces, which had been laid 
 up with great art and expense for 
 the cultivation of fruits and vege- 
 tables." The bite is said to have 
 been tliat of a palace of King 
 Eadbald ; and in Ijcland's time, " yn 
 breking a side of walle yn the halle, 
 were found ii children's bones." 
 
 Northbourne Coiut was for some 
 time in the hands of the Sandys fa- 
 mily. It is now a large farm : the 
 barns and outlnnldings may possibly 
 repay examination. 
 
 Detslumcjer Church, 6 m. from Deal, 
 is Norman, and has been admirably 
 restored by Mr. Salvin. 
 
 In the ncighboiuhood of Deal are 
 Cottivcjton (G. Hooper, Esq.) and 
 Beishanger Farlc (Sir Walter James, 
 Bart.)] 
 
 Tlie railway ceases at Deal, but 
 coaches and omni})uses start several 
 times a-day for Dover, passing through 
 
 Walmer. This road is, however, bare, 
 and oft'ers few points of interest. The 
 vmUc to Dover along the cliffs, by the 
 South Foreland, is about 10 m., and 
 magnificent. On the beach, beyond 
 Kingsdown, stations for rifle prac- 
 tice and " judging of distance " have 
 been fixed for the use of the Walmer 
 barracks. It is possible to walk to 
 Dover by the beach, but in this case 
 the tides must be carefvdly noted. 
 The white, flint-bedded cliiis aflord 
 no resting - places, like " Bessie's 
 apron ;" and whoever may flnd him- 
 self beneath them in Sir Arthur 
 Wardour's position will have but a 
 slender chance of escape. The loose 
 shingle, moreover, under the Fore- 
 land, atfords by no means a pleasant 
 patli. The pedestrian will do best 
 to walk by the cliff's to St. Marga- 
 ret's, see the very interesting Norm, 
 church there, and then descend to 
 the beach from the preventive sta- 
 tion at Cornhill, on the other side 
 of the S. Foreland. From this point 
 a footpath continues to Dover. 
 
 The main road from Deal passes 
 through the village of Upper Walmer, 
 2 m. The chancel arch and S. door 
 of the ch. are Norman, and richly 
 decorated. There is no memorial of 
 "El (ilran Lor," but the pew which 
 he used to occupy almost every Sim- 
 day dining his residence at AValmer. 
 This is the large seat immediately in 
 front of the pulpit. The wonderful 
 square addition to the ch. was made 
 in 182(3. The churchyard is enclo.sed 
 by a deep ancient fosse. Near it 
 are some relics of a mansion belong- 
 ing to the ancient family of Criol. 
 About half-way down Castle-street, 
 in the village, a house is pointed out 
 which was tenanted by the Duke 
 when Sir Arthur Weliesley : it is 
 known as " The Duke's House." 
 
 The various intrenchments in the 
 neighbourhood (interesting in con- 
 nexion with Cjesar's landing),uoticed 
 by Hasted, are now difficult of dis- 
 covery, in consequence of increased 
 cultivation. " A deep single fosse
 
 IvE}TT. Route 10. — Sutton. — St. Margarets at Cliff. 
 
 215 
 
 upon a rising ground " is mentioned 
 near Walmer Churcli, and there are 
 said to be marks of intrenchment at 
 Hawkshill close, near the castle, to 
 the S. There are others N. of Eip- 
 ple Church, and at Dane Pitts, on 
 a farm now called Winkland Oaks. 
 Tills last is readily found, although 
 much changed since it was figured 
 by Hasted. It is too small for a 
 fortification of any sort, and was 
 probably a " bower " or " Troy- 
 town," in wliich games took place 
 on certain occasions. (See Ete. 8 ; 
 Julaber's Grave, Chilham.) 
 
 From the high ground above 
 Walmer a fine view is olitained 
 northward, — Sandwich, with Kich- 
 borough beyond it ; Thanet, and 
 Ilamsgate stretching along its cliffs ; 
 tlie Downs on one side, and on the 
 other a wide sweep of undulating 
 chalk country, fidl of Saxon me- 
 morials. 
 
 R/pple church (belonging to St. 
 Augustine's), to which a footpath 
 leads across the open fields, has some 
 Norni. portions. The W. window is 
 circular with pilasters. At Sutton, 
 1 m. further S., is a small Norm. ch. 
 of some interest. It is dedicated to 
 SS. Peter and Paul, and has nave 
 and chancel, with circular apse. The 
 windows are circular-headed, varjing 
 in size, with zigzag ornaments rudely 
 scratched above them. The S. door 
 has an enriched tympanum. The N. 
 door (now closed) is immediately op- 
 posite, as at Eipple and Nortlibourne. 
 The wall of the W. end is said to have 
 been injured by an earthquake, April 
 G, 1 680. It has been rebuilt, but still 
 shows the circular window. All the 
 rest of the ch. remains unaltered. 
 The manor belonged to the familv of 
 (Jriol. 
 
 3 m. from Deal is the village of 
 Rlngwouhi. Tlie church, dedicated 
 to St. Nicholas, perhaps served as a 
 landmark. It stands on high ground, 
 commanding fine views of the Downs. 
 'I'ho shell is E. PI, but much altera- 
 tion has taken place. The raised 
 
 ground S. of ch. may perhaps mark 
 an intrenchment like that at Walmer. 
 
 At Ozneij, 1 m., are some fragments 
 of a desecrated chapel. Oxneij Court 
 (E. Eoffey, Esq.) adjoins. Some dis- 
 tance off the road, W., are the two 
 Langdons. The ch. of East Ijangdou 
 has a late Norm, turret for 2 bells. 
 The pidpit-cloth is made from an 
 ancient vestment of crimson velvet, 
 embroidered with the words " Jesu 
 Maria," and other figures. " It weU 
 deserves to be copied." (Hussey.) 
 At West Langdon was a Benedictine 
 abbey, founded 1192, by Will, de 
 Aubeville. Both this and the ch. 
 have disappeared, a few ivy-covered 
 walls of the latter alone remaining. 
 Here Leyton, Cromwell's commis- 
 sioner (Oct., 15;!5), after gaining 
 entrance with much difficulty, took 
 captive the abbot's "tender damoi- 
 .sel,'' lier apparel being found in the 
 abbot's coffer (see his graphic letter 
 in Fronde's Hist. vol. i.). 
 
 A road at the head of Oxney Hill, 
 1., leads to St. Margaret's at Cliff, 
 where the Norm. ch. must on no 
 account be left unvifeited. The nave 
 of 4 bays has circular piers, except 
 one, wliich is clustered. The bases 
 are best seen at the W. end, but are 
 buried in whitewash. A much en- 
 riched moulcUng surrounds the arches. 
 The capitals of the piers have various 
 Norm, ornaments. At the angles, 
 and at the centre of each arch, are 
 heads, and there is a shigidar mask 
 in the centre of the moulding between 
 tlie nave arches and the clerestoiy. 
 The aisles do not extend beyond the 
 nave. 'I'he small and deeply splayed 
 side-windows have nearly all been 
 altered : in that at the E. end of the 
 S. aisle is a bracket for a figure, pro- 
 Ijably above an altar. The circular 
 chancel arch is unusually lofty, 
 reaching to the toja of the clerestory 
 windows. The chancel, of great 
 length, has at the E. end 3 windows 
 below, half blocked by a carved 
 Corinthian screen, and one (closed) 
 above. The rest of the chancel
 
 21(3 
 
 Route 10. — St. Margaret's. — Gaston. 
 
 Sect. L 
 
 windows are circular-headed. Tlie 
 tower arch is pointed. The exterior 
 wall of tlie nave, rising above tlie 
 aisles, is surrounded by a rich arcade, 
 which is pierced at intervals for the 
 clerestory windows. There is a low 
 side window (circular-headed), but 
 now blocked up, on S. side of chancel. 
 
 Some whitewash has been removed, 
 and more might be got rid of with 
 great advantage. The church is 
 pewed in orthodox style, and is 
 altogether in a sad state. 
 
 The manor has always belonged 
 to the archbishops of Canterbury, by 
 one of whom (Anselm?) the ch. 
 must have been erected. In this, as 
 in most otlicr Kentish villages, the 
 stocks appear in the churchyaid, 
 and are reverenced as a venerable 
 institution, — though their usual state 
 of chlapidation would reassure Dr. 
 Eicabocca. 
 
 Beyond the church, which lifts 
 itself proudly aT)ove the little village, 
 a " gate ' opens to the sea. The 
 cliffs unfold like an ampliitheatre ; 
 and down their broken sides a road 
 winds to St. IMargaret's bay, whose 
 voices come floating inland with a 
 solemn music — 
 
 " Kt geniitum inge-.item pelagi, piilsataque 
 sa.xa 
 -\iiUimus longe, fractasque ad littora voces." 
 
 The guillemots which breed in the 
 cliffs here are said by Buffon to be 
 much sought after by the fishermen 
 of Picard}-, — as baits for lobsters and 
 other fish, according to Pennant. The 
 finest flavoured lobsters in England, 
 " small, and turning of a remark- 
 ably deep red colour," are found in 
 St. IMargaret's bay. Gastronomy, 
 " which owes eveiything to the 
 Church,"' is perhaps indebted for their 
 discovery to Abp. Morton, by whom 
 a small pier was constriicted below 
 the cliffs, " for the defence of the 
 fishing craft." 
 
 From St. ]Margaret's, tlie 2 light- 
 houses on the S. Foreland may be 
 visited. This is the nearest point to 
 
 the French coast, the " Pas " being 
 somewliat shorter from here to the 
 cliff of Grisnez tlian from Dover to 
 Calais. The light at Dunkirk is here 
 visible, besides those of Calais and 
 Boulogne. The arrangements of the 
 S. Foreland lighthouses correspond 
 in all particulars with those of the 
 N. Foreland. (See Ete. 6.). The 
 view from the cliffs — always mag- 
 nificent — is sometimes rendered 
 more S(j than usual from the passing 
 of whole fleets of merchantmen— 200 
 or 300 in number— outward bomid, 
 after havuig been detained by con- 
 trary wind in the Downs. 
 
 Gusfon (rt. of the high road) has a 
 Nonn. ch., worth a visit. The country 
 from this point is open and wind-swept. 
 The name of " The Lone Tree," 
 given to a sycamore, wliich derives 
 importance from its isolation, like a 
 remote country squire, indicates its 
 character. "This tree is the subject 
 of a ratlier romantic legend. In the 
 days of the Commonwealtli, they tell 
 us, two sokUers of the garrison of 
 Dover Castle were jealous of each 
 other on account of a woman, and, 
 chancing to walk thus far together, 
 one suddenly slew the other with a 
 thick staff" wliicli he had in his hand. 
 Horror-stricken at the crime which 
 he had conmiitted, the murderer 
 threw the weapon from him violently 
 and hastened from the spot ; but the 
 start' falling in such a manner as to 
 stick upriglit in the ground, imme- 
 diately took root, and grew into the 
 solitary tree which still remains as 
 a perpetual testimony of tliis san- 
 guinary deed." (TlV/f/Zi^—' Wander- 
 ings of an Antiquary.) 
 
 The dark towers of Dover Castle 
 at last rise up on the 1., and one of 
 the most striking views in Kent opens 
 as we descend the steep liill into the 
 town. The valley which stretches 
 up rt. from Charlton is called "The 
 Knights' Bottom ' — and is said to 
 have been the favoiu-ite spot for the 
 lists and joustings of tlie Castle gar- 
 rison. (For Dover, see Ete. 7.)
 
 IvEXT. 
 
 Route 11. — Canterhury to Dover 
 
 217 
 
 ROUTE 11. 
 
 CANTERBURY TO DOVER. 
 
 -The high road from Canterbury 
 to Dover follows tlirougliout nmch 
 of its course the line of tiie Watliug 
 Street, wliicli, E. of Canterbury, 
 seems to have brauehed in two divi- 
 sions to Kichborough (Tvutuijije) on 
 one hand, and to Dover (Dubrfe) on 
 the other. In King John's charter 
 to St. Eadegunds Abbey this 
 Dover branch is called " Alba Via," 
 the "White Way." 
 
 Tlie country is not so wooded as 
 among tlie hills of the Blean W. of 
 Canterbury ; and in some parts has 
 much in common with the bare, 
 open landscape which used to 
 delight the traveller by diligence S. 
 of Calais. The high ridge of Bar- 
 ham Downs, and tlie valley of the 
 Doiu' beyoiid tiiem, are the principal 
 features. 
 
 [Heppimjton, in the parish of Nack- 
 ington, 2 m. from Canterbury, and 
 1 m. 1. of the road, was the residence 
 of the Eev. Bryan Faussett, who 
 (toward the close of the last cen- 
 tury) was the lirst to examine the 
 graves of tlie earliest .Saxon settlers 
 in thi.s part of Kent. His very in- 
 teresting museum, probably the most 
 important collection of Saxon relics 
 which exists, is nut where it should 
 1)0, in the National Museum, but in 
 the possession of H. Meyer, Esq., of 
 Liverpool .3 
 
 Bridge, 3 m., lies picturesquely 
 
 in the valley of the Little Stour, 
 the "bourn " or river wluch gives 
 its name to the many neigliboin- 
 ing hourncs (Bishopsbovu'ne, Beki'S- 
 bourne, &c.). The Watling Street 
 crossed the stream at Bridge, the 
 manor and cli. of which beh)nged to 
 the Abbey of St. Augustine. The 
 cliiirclt, dedicated to St. Peter, is 
 Norm, and E. E., the latter predomi- 
 nating. On the N. side of the chancel 
 is a remarkable monument, a recum- 
 bent figure in a recess, in a long robe 
 witli loose sleeves furred at the 
 wrists. On the 1. breast is a small 
 quatrefoil badge or clasp ; the hair 
 is long and straight. It is possibly 
 the etfigy of some ofiicer of the 
 abbey, wlio had the management of 
 its laud at Bridge. Above, in tlie 
 head of an arch, are some curious 
 carvings in rehef, the subjects of 
 which are, — the Deity with angels, 
 the Temptation, the Expulsion, and 
 Cain and Abel. Remark the human- 
 headed serpent on the tree. The cos- 
 tume is about the time of Richard II. 
 On the opposite wall (E. side of 
 S. window) is a niche for a lamp or 
 figure. There is also a memorial of 
 the Baron de Montesquieu, grandson 
 of the famous President, who died 
 here in 1823. 
 
 Between 1630 and 1640 Cornelius 
 Jansen the artist lived much at 
 Bridge, " and drew many portraits 
 for gentlemen in the neighbourhood. 
 One of his best works was the i)or- 
 trait of a Lady Bowyer, of the 
 family of Aucher, called for her ex- 
 quisite beauty ' The Star in the 
 East.' " ( Walpole.) This i^icture is 
 now at St. Alban's Court (see post). 
 
 [Leaving the high road, and fol- 
 lowing the stream on the 1., we 
 reach (5 m.) Patrixhourne, a Norm, 
 eh. well deserving a visit. At theE. 
 end are 3 circidar-headed windows, 
 with a fine rose or Catherine wheel, 
 like tliat of Barfreston, above. Over 
 the S. door of the chancel is a 
 figure in a sealed hauberk, perha])s 
 representing St. Michael. Tlie S.
 
 218 
 
 Houte 11. — Beheshourne. — Lee Priory. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 door of tlie nave, looking out from a 1 
 mass of ivy wliich clusters all over 
 the tower, is very rich. In the 1 
 tjnnpanuna is a figure of the Saviour, ; 
 with a triply rayed nimbus ; beneath 
 liis feet are dragons and a dog. The • 
 Caen stone mouldings arc as sharp 
 as if just finished. A sort of leaf or 
 quatrefiiil ornament indicates that 
 this door was not completed until tlie 
 style was on the point of changing. 
 At the end of the 12th cent, the eh. 
 belonged to the Priory of Beaulieu 
 (near Kouen) m Normandy, by wliich 
 house it was perhaps built. Tlie 
 colmuns and arches within are heavy 
 Norm. TJiere are some modern 
 stained windows, and otliers filled 
 with Flemisli glass of the IGth cent. 
 The interi(3r of the ch. has been re- 
 stored (1857) by Mr. Scott. 
 
 The Vicarage beyond has the 
 Conyngham crest over tlie door, in- 
 dicating the patronage of that 
 family. The house of Bifrons 
 (Marchioness of Conyngliain) ad- 
 joins. In the drawing-room is a fine 
 full length of George IV. by Laio- 
 rence. Along the front of the house 
 a Mr. Taylor, who rebuilt it in 1770, 
 placed this inscri])tion "in commen- 
 dation of his wife :" " Diruta aidificat 
 uxor bona, sedificata dirnit mala." 
 
 The road continues along tlie side 
 of the stream, which has some large 
 willows on its banks, to Btkesbourae 
 (■J m.). On the 1. are the remains 
 of the Archhishop's Palace, the relics 
 of wliich however arc very scanty. 
 In tlic outer wall of the gate-house 
 is a stone with Cranmcr's initials — 
 " T. C. 1552 : Nosce Teipsuin et 
 Deum." A few Perp. windows re- 
 main. In the garden remark an 
 enormous walnut, with twisted and 
 gnarled boughs, covered with ivy. 
 Cranmcr (who liad acquired tlie pro- 
 perty by an exchange with the 
 monks of Ch. Cii. Canterbury) re- 
 tired to this palace on the accession 
 of Queen Mary ; and hid some 
 paper.s (said to have been his will) 
 beliind the wainscot of the gal- 
 
 leiy, where they were found when 
 the rebels pulled down the palace, 
 as some one wlio saw them told 
 Batteley. From tliis place Cranmer 
 removed to Ford (see Rte. 9), 
 whence he was committed to the 
 Tower. Archbishop Parker resided 
 here frequently, as appears from his 
 correspondence. The cliurcli stands 
 rt. on a hillock, and is E. E. with 
 some Norm, portions. The E. win- 
 dows are double lancets, instead 
 of triple as usual. (This arrange- 
 ment also occurs at Upper Hardres 
 and at Thanington.) In the nave 
 is the tombstone of Nicholas Batteley 
 tlie antiquar\', vicar of Bekesbourne, 
 d. 1704. 
 
 A field patli still along the Stour 
 valley, wiiicli continues pleasantly 
 wooded, leiids to the ruined chapel 
 of Well. It is E. E. and picturesque. 
 Near this is tlte Hoicletts-(G. Gipps, 
 Esq.). In the grounds are some fine 
 old cedars. Lee Friory, be3'ond (Sir T. 
 Brydges, Bart.), will be visited with 
 some iiiti-Tcst by the literaiy tourist. 
 Horace Walpole's " daughter of 
 Strawberry, fairer than Strawljerry 
 liersclf," is certainly more substan- 
 tial than her distinguished parent^ 
 but is still fantastic enough. Tlie 
 Inmse was entirely remodelled by 
 Wyatt towards the close of the last 
 cent., under the auspices of its then 
 owner, Thomas Barrett, Esq. The 
 great oriel window is merely a piece 
 of external elFeet. The Library (also 
 an " eflfect ") is fitted as a chapel with 
 a small altar in a recess. Througli- 
 out, the house exhibits a strange 
 mixture of churchwarden's Gothic 
 witli the white paint and gilding 
 fashionable at the time of its recon- 
 struction. Of the 2^>ctiires, two arc 
 wortli special notice— Charles I., by 
 J)o})»(in (?), resting his hand on a 
 crystal globe (in the dining-room) ; 
 and an early Flemish picture in 
 wliicli a deacon is represented 
 kneeling between two bishops (now 
 in a small upstairs sitting-room). The 
 park surrounding the house has
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 1 1 . — Litthlouviie. — Lishopshourne. 
 
 219 
 
 mucli broken gi-ound, with some 
 good scenery. At the death of Mr. 
 Barrett in 1803, Lee Priory passed 
 by will to the eldest son of Sir 
 Egerton Brydges, tlien a minor. Sir 
 Egerton himself afterwards resided 
 here, and in 1813 estabhshed tlic 
 Lee Priory Press, the rei^rints iVora 
 which are well known to all book 
 collectors. 
 
 Beyond Lee Park is Littlebourne, 
 the last of tlie " bourne " group in this 
 direction. The eh. is E. E. Tlie 
 lesser Stour, which now joins tlie 
 larger river near Sarre, was jerhaps 
 formerly na\igable for small craft as 
 high as Bekesbourne : the parish at 
 all events became a member of the 
 Hastings Cinque Port, and Avas com- 
 lielled to contribute its single shiji 
 when required. Sujiposing that Ccc- 
 sar's second landing can be fixed with 
 certainty at Deal, tlie river behind 
 which he found the Britons posted, 
 after his 12 hours' night march, must 
 have been the Lesser Stour, and the 
 skirmish in which Laberius Durus 
 was killed may have taken place 
 somewhere about Bekesbourne. {De 
 B. G. V. 8-11). 
 
 Returning to Bridge, we diverge 
 again rt. of the main road in order 
 to visit Bisliopsljourne (1 m.). It is 
 stiU possible to drive by the side of 
 the stream through Bourne Park 
 (M. BeU, Esq.). On the higher 
 ground some Saxon barrows were 
 opened in 1814. Through the trees, 
 and beyond the green quiet mea- 
 dows, looks out the tower of Bishops- 
 bourne, with its memories of Hooker, 
 to whom the hving was given bv Abp. 
 Whitgift in 1595. " He had not 
 been tliere 12 months," says Walton, 
 " liefore his books, and the innocency 
 and sanctitj" of his life, became so 
 remarkable, that many turned out of 
 the road ; and others, scholars 
 especially, went purposely to see the 
 man." Bisliopsbourne still attracts 
 many pilgrims. The Rectory, which 
 has been greatly modernised, con- 
 tains a dining-room, the ceiling of 
 
 which is crossed and rccrossed with 
 beams and rafters of black oalv, which 
 are probably older tiuiu Hooker's 
 time. A small study beyond, in 
 which he may have conferred with 
 •Saravia, is also part of the old house. 
 In the garden is a noble yew hedge. 
 
 The church, restored about 15 
 years since, as a memorial of 
 Hooker, is throughout Perp. In the 
 modern E. window of five lights are 
 the anns of Canterbury (centre), 
 Eochester (1.), and Hooker (rt.). 
 Hooker's monument, erected by Sii~ 
 WiUiam Cowper in 1633, is on the 
 N. wall of the chancel. It is a 
 painted bust, in cap and ruff, witliin 
 a circular medallion. Aljove are 
 two angels bearing a wreath. The 
 date here assigned for Hooker's 
 death (1G08) is inaccurate. Itsiiould 
 be 1600. Sir WiUiam Cowper, who, 
 says Walton, " acknowledged Hooker 
 to have been his spiritual fatlier," 
 was an ardent royalist, and suli'ered 
 much during the troubles. The 
 parish register (kept at tiie rectory) 
 contains long entries in Hooker's 
 writing. 
 
 On the S. side of the nave, above 
 the capital of the pillar opposite the 
 pulpit, is a niche in whieli stood the 
 image of the Virgin, patroness of the 
 eh., to whom AVilliam Hawte gave 
 by his will in 1462 sundry relics, 
 including a i)iece of the stone on 
 wliich the archangel Gabriel 
 descended when he salut 'd her, for 
 the image to rest its feet upon. 
 
 From Bisliopsbourne the tourist 
 may either return at once to the " Via 
 Alba," extend his excursion to 
 Upper Hardres, or proceed along 
 the bottom of the valley to Barham, 
 and regain the downs from t.ience. 
 
 The Church of Upper Hardres, 
 2 m., is for the most part E. E. and 
 contains some good brasses - John 
 Storte, rector, 1404 ; George Hardres, 
 1485 ; and some others for the 
 Hardi-es family, who seem to have 
 been settled here from a period soon 
 after the Conquest, and wlio con-
 
 220 
 
 Route 1 1 . — Kingstone. — Barham. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 tiuued to reside at Hardres Court I 
 iiutil Sir William Hardres died with- 
 out issue iij 17G4. At Hardres 
 Court (now a farmhouse) the gates 
 of Boulogne were long preserved 
 " in the garden wall, opjiosite the 
 cli." Thomas Hardres, who was 
 present with Henry VIII. at the 
 siege of Boulogne, was permitted 
 to bring away these gates as a 
 mark of his services. They liave 
 long disappeared. The dagger of 
 Henry VIII. was also shown here. 
 The king, it was said, had left it at 
 Hardres Court as an additional mark 
 of favour, after passing two days in 
 the house on his return from France. 
 
 Through this i^arish runs the 
 ancient Stone Street (see Rte. 7), 
 along which the tourist may still 
 travel nearly as far as Hythe. Tlie 
 country is much wooded and very 
 pleasant. At Peiluim, on the W. 
 side of the Stone Street, are remains 
 of entrenchments which, as usual in 
 this part of Kent, are called Caesar's. 
 
 About half way between Bishojjs- 
 bourne and Barliani is a little inn 
 called "Black Eobin's Corner," witli 
 a, negro for its sign. The original 
 "Black Robin," however, was a 
 famous highwayman, who frequented 
 the neiglil)ouihood about fifty years 
 since. Kingslone, rt., is apparently 
 the place which has given its name 
 to a remarkable tliaumaturgist, " St. 
 Thomas Regio-Lapidensis," whose 
 miracles seem to have rivalled tliose 
 of his greater namesake of Canter- 
 bury. (See for perhaps the fullest 
 notice of this Saint existing, ' Notes 
 and Queries,' vol. ii.) Close to the 
 village of Barham is a dry bridge 
 under which the " Nailbourne," form- 
 ing the ujiper course of the Lesser 
 Stour, occasionally comes down. 
 
 The Church of Barham is early 
 Dec. and contains some brasses. 
 The manor was held of the arch- 
 bishops, and was in the hands of 
 Reginald Fitzurse, one of Becket's 
 nuirdcrers — Barham Ijeing, it is 
 .said, the English version of tlie 
 
 name Fitzurse (althougli the resem- 
 blance is more probably accidental). 
 A family named from the place 
 continuedi here until the reign of 
 James I., and from it the autlior of 
 the 'Ingoldsby Legends' claimed 
 descent. 
 
 Tappiwjton, or Tapton Wood, the 
 scene of sundry murders in the 
 Legends — " an antiquated manor- 
 house, with gable ends, stone stan- 
 chions, and tortuous chimneys," lies 
 on the side of the valley beyond 
 Denton. It still boasts its " ineradi- 
 eal)le bloodstain on the oaken floor, 
 bidding defiance to the united 
 energies of soap and sand," — the 
 scene of " Bad Sir Giles's fratricide," 
 a genuine tradition. 
 
 Broome Bark (Sir H. Oxenden), the 
 house of most architectural character 
 in tlie neiglibourliood, was built 
 about 1G20 by a member of the 
 Dixwell family, whose " pyramid" 
 appears m the S. aisle of Barham 
 Church. There are some fine 
 beeches in the park.] 
 
 From Barham we regain the 
 downs, which are loftiest at this 
 point. The air of all tliis district is 
 unusually bracing, and instances of 
 longevity are common. The soil is 
 thin and indifferent. Like the 
 central moors of the " kingdom of 
 Fife," which it much resembles, it 
 is the "frieze garment" of Kent, 
 here a district of " health without 
 wealth." As tbe chalk hills slope, 
 however, toward Thanet on the N. 
 and the country about Folkestone S., 
 the "golden border" rapidly gains 
 on the frieze, as is the ease in 
 Scotland. 
 
 Barham Doicns, properly so called, 
 are about 4 m. long, the elevation 
 being greatest at their E. end. 
 From the wide extent of open 
 ground afforded by them on the 
 direct line of the Watling Street, 
 they have been the scene of sundry 
 great " gatherings," from the days of 
 Ca3sar to those in wliicli Napoleon's 
 camp threatened " Kent and Chris-
 
 Kent. 
 
 Route 11. — BarJiam Doicns. 
 
 -Actishani. 
 
 121 
 
 tendom " from the opposite heights 
 of Boulogne. King Jolm's army of 
 nO,000 men was encamped here in 
 1213, when Philip Augustus was 
 preparing for that invasion of j 
 England, afterwards accomphshed 
 by his son Louis. On this oeeasion 
 the king and Pandulph the legate 
 met, probably lirst at Dover, and ' 
 afterwards at Temple Ewell, about 
 i) m. distant (see jyost) ; and the king 
 resigned his crown to the " Italian 
 priest " in the house of the Templars 
 there. A more solemn resignation 
 afterwards took place in St. Paul's 
 Cathedral, Lomlon. (See, for the 
 best account of all this period, 3Iil- 
 iiian's ' Latin Christianity," iv.) A 
 large body of troops was assembled 
 on Barham Downs by Simon de 
 Montfort, temp. Hen. 111., in order to 
 oppose the landing of Queen Eleanor 
 from France. Here Henrietta Maria, 
 after landuig at Dover, May 10, 1G25, 
 during her progress to Canterljury 
 with the king, found a number of 
 the court ladies awaiting her. 
 Hemietta left her carriage, and held 
 her first English " drawing-room " 
 on Barham Downs, in a tent which 
 liad been pitched for her reception. 
 The last great assemblage on these 
 do'W'us was the camp formed at the 
 time of Napoleon's Boulogne de- 
 monsti-ation, of which traces are 
 stiU visible. 
 
 A small square intrenehment with 
 u single vallum exists on the side of 
 the hill facing Kingstone Church. 
 Numerous barrows, great numbers 
 of which were opened by Mr. Fans- 
 sett of Heppington, are scattered 
 over the downs. They are of various 
 periods, from early British to Saxon. 
 Twine (de Reb. Albion.) describes 
 the opening of a very large one here 
 in the reign of Henry "VIII., in 
 which much armour of unusual size 
 was found. His description is too 
 vague however to detennine its 
 cliaracter. 
 
 The Canterbury races, no longer 
 of mucli importance, are held on 
 
 IKent it Sussex.'] 
 
 Barham Downs ; and here the elec- 
 tion of mendjcrs for East Kent takes 
 place. 
 
 [The country 1. of the downs con- 
 tains some interesting points, which 
 the tourist may proceed to visit 
 through a series of intricate cross- 
 roads. The scenery is for the most 
 part veiw pleasant, witli broad jias- 
 toral valleys, tliroughout wliicli tufts 
 of wood, mostly beech and ash, are 
 scattered at intervals. Above them 
 rise green, imenclosed hills, com- 
 manduig very tine views over the 
 country seaward. The parks of 
 Goodnestoue, Knowlton, St. Alban's, 
 and Fredville, with their richer 
 masses of foliage, add not a little to 
 the beauty of the near landscape. 
 
 Adislimii, about -|m. off tlie downs, 
 and best reached by a road turning 
 off opposite Bishopsbourue, is inter- 
 esting from its connection with tlie 
 Priory of Clirist Church, Canterlnny, 
 to wliich foundation it was granted 
 by King Eadbald in (JKi, free of all 
 tribute except tlie well-known "tri- 
 noda necessitas" — contributions to- 
 ward the repair of castles and 
 liridges, and assistance in the " fyrd " 
 or military expedition. In all sub- 
 seciuent grants to the cliurch of 
 Canterbury, involving siinilar pri- 
 vileges, it was usual to insert the 
 words "Libere sicut Adisham," or 
 the letters I;. S. A., instead of re- 
 cording the various immunities at 
 length. Tlie manor still continues 
 in the possession of the Canterbiuy 
 Chapter, to wliicli it was restored bv 
 Hemy Vlll. Tlie C/^»re/^ dedicated 
 to the Holy Innocents, is cruciform, 
 with a central tower. The greater 
 jiart is E. E. There are no monu- 
 ments of importance. 
 
 li 111. from Adisham is Goodnestoiie 
 (conunonly called Gunsfou) Parle 
 (Sir Brook Bridges, Bart., whose 
 family has been settled here since 
 the reign of Queen Anne). The 
 house was rebuilt in 1733. The 
 greater part of the churrh, which 
 adjoins, is modern. Tlie tower is 
 
 M
 
 900 
 
 l^oute 11. — Chilknden . — Nonington . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 however the usual Kentish Perp., 
 and the single aisle is E. E. Brasses: 
 wifo of AViiliam Goodnestone, 1423 ; 
 "William Bovs, wife aud 8 claildren, 
 1507. 
 
 The adjoining parish of ChiUenden 
 is best known from its having given 
 name to the prior of Clirist Church 
 Cauterbuiy (d. 1411), who did so 
 much for his monastery and cathe- 
 dral. (See Canterbury, Ete. 8.) The 
 clturch here, however, belonged to the 
 Priory of Leeds. It is very small, 
 late Norm., witli Perp. windows in- 
 serted. The N. and S. doors are 
 the original Norm. From this point 
 the tourist may return to the Dover 
 road by a road skirting tlie parks, 
 wliich almost join each other, of 
 Knon-lton (Ad'miral D'Aeth), St. 
 Albau's Court (W. O. Hammond, 
 Esq.), and Fredville (\. P. Plumptre, 
 Esq.). At St. Albans, wliich was 
 bought by the ancestor of the pre- 
 .sent proprietor, temp. Pliilip and 
 Mary, is the portrait by Jansen of 
 the beautiful Lady Bowyer, called 
 "the Star of the East," painted dur- 
 ing Jansen's residence at Bridge 
 (see arde). The house contains 
 some other pictures of interest. In 
 Fredville Park are some of the most 
 remarkable trees in this part of 
 Kent — the grandest being an enor- 
 mous oak, which stands not far 
 from the house, aud is well known 
 tliroughout all the country as " the 
 Fredville Oak." It is of no great 
 height, but measures 3G ft. in girtli. 
 Tlie rarity of the oak throughout 
 the district renders this tree espe- 
 cially wortliy of notice. Its age is 
 unknown ; but it may have shadowed 
 the Saxon hunter long before the 
 "alien king" fought for his new 
 crown at Hastings. Fredville was 
 held of the Castle of Dover, and 
 formed part of tlie barony of Saye. 
 In the reign of Richard III. it came 
 into the hands of tlie Boys family, 
 who suffered mucli during the civil 
 war, and whose last representatives 
 (about 1G73), John aud Nicholas 
 
 Boys, "finding that there was no 
 further abode at Fredville, departed 
 each from thence, with a favourite 
 hawk in hand, and became pension- 
 ers at the Charterhouse in Lon- 
 don." — Hasted. 
 
 The Church oi Nonington, in which 
 parish Fredville stands, is for the 
 most part E. E., but of no very great 
 interest. Passing rt. the small church 
 of Womejisioould, or Wimlingswold 
 (called by the natives Womenjole), 
 which has nothing to detain the 
 tourist, the main road is regained 
 nearly opposite Broome Park. At 
 Denne hill (Colonel Moutrcsor), round 
 which the road winds, are traces of 
 very extensive intrenchments, which 
 earlier antiquaries regarded as in- 
 dications of the line of Cesar's in- 
 land march from Deal.] 
 
 The main road, along which we 
 are again advancing, had in former 
 days an evil reputation as the 
 ttivouritc haunt of nocturnal phan- 
 toms, especially of Robin Goodfellow 
 and liis friends. "By this time,"" wrote 
 Reginald Scot in 1582, " all Kentish- 
 men (some few fooles excepted) 
 know that Robin Goodfellow is a 
 knave." He could still, however, 
 
 " llislead night waud^rors, laugbing at then' 
 harm," 
 
 when Hentzner, in 1598, passed over 
 this road on his way to Dover. He 
 was led astray, as he asserts, by a 
 pair of horsemen, whose horses, 
 dress, and general appearance ex- 
 actly resembled those of his own 
 companions, from whom he had been 
 accidentally separated. He followed 
 them for some distance ; but finding 
 that they i:)res(rved a mysterious 
 silence, that tliey .rode direct into 
 the marshes, that fire broke forth 
 wherever their horses' feet struck 
 the earth, and that Will-with-the- 
 wisps came gathering round in gTcat 
 numbers, he became alarmed, and 
 stopped. Fortunately his guide 
 sounded his horn at that moment, 
 and recalled him to the right track. 
 His companions had seen nothing.
 
 Kkxt, 
 
 Route 1 1 . — Barfreston . — CoIJred. 
 
 223 
 
 The greater part of JTootton Court 
 (John Brydgcs, E.«q.), which lies 
 on a liill rt. of tlie main road, was 
 rebuilt toward the end of the last 
 cent. The earlier life of Sir Eger- 
 ton Brydges was spent here, and in 
 the neighbouring parisli of Denton ; 
 and here lie made those observations 
 on the "provincial dignity "of the 
 Kentish sqnires, which he turned to 
 account in his subsequent novels, 
 not however without finding that 
 nature had provided even Kentish 
 squires with tolerably efficient means 
 of self-defence. (See his Autubio- 
 (jroplty, vol. i.) 
 
 [Near the 10th milestone fi-om 
 Cauterbuiy a road turns off 1. to 
 Barfreston (better known here as 
 Barson), distant about 2 m. The 
 Church is the great lion of the 
 district, and one of the most remark- 
 able Norm, buildings in England. 
 Its enrichments are ruder than those 
 of Ifificy, near Oxford, with which 
 church it has perhaps most in com- 
 mon, and its date is probably much 
 earlier. In this county the Church 
 of Patrixbourne (sec ante) seems 
 most to have resembled Barfreston. 
 Hugh de Port, Constable of Dover, 
 on wliom the manor of Barfreston 
 was bestowed after Bishop Odos 
 disgrace in 1081, has been pointed 
 out us the probable builder of the 
 eh. Abp. Lanfranc, Gundnlf Bishop 
 of Rochester, and Prior Ernulf of 
 Canterbury, had introduced Caen 
 .stone and good masons to Eng- 
 land, and the Norman lords in many 
 parts of Kent seem to have eagerly 
 taken advantage of them. 
 
 The walls of Barfreston Church 
 are 2 ft. 9 hi. thick ; the exterior of 
 Caen stone, the middle tilled in with 
 niblile. llemark the wreathed jnl- 
 lars of the chancel arch, — the exterior 
 corbel-heads, — the niclies for tigures 
 all round the exterior walls, — the 
 great S. entrance, — the circular 
 window of the chancel, — aird the two 
 arches below (withoTit the walls), 
 which, it has been suggc sted, may 
 
 j have been intended to serve as 
 
 [ burial-places for the founder's 
 
 I family. Tlie ch. has been lately 
 
 restored with much care, and with 
 
 very good result. 
 
 In visiting Barfreston either from 
 Canterbury or Dover, the excursion 
 should be prolonged to Walihrt^hore 
 and the church of CohJred. Tlie rich 
 tree masses of Waldershare Purh 
 (Earl of Guildford, which lies about 
 2 m. olf the Dover road, and 1 m. 
 from Barfreston), together with its 
 lofty Bclvidere, are conspicuous from 
 a great distance. Tlie house was 
 built by Sir Henry Furnese, temp. 
 Will. HI. The park is extensive and 
 well stocked with deer. From the 
 tower of the Bclvidere, which stran- 
 gers are allowed to ascend, there is a 
 very wide view over all this part of 
 E. Kent, with a broad stretch of sea, 
 and the French coast beyond. Wal- 
 dershare ijasstd through the Mal- 
 maynes, the Monyns, and tlie Fur- 
 neses, to the Guildford family in 
 1790. The farm-house of Mahiiaius, 
 at the N. end of the parish, occupies 
 the site of the original mansion. 
 
 Tlie Church, which is nearly 
 covered with ivy, contains a stately 
 monument erected by Sir Robert 
 Furnese, at the beginning of the last 
 cent., to his father. Sir Henry. It 
 is in the true taste of the time— a 
 jiyramid, supported by 4 female 
 figures. Remark the noble yews in 
 the chuix'hyard. 
 
 The Church of Coldred, which ad- 
 joins Waldersiiare Park, S., stands 
 on the summit of a hill, and within 
 an oval intrenchnient, the area of 
 wliich contains about 2 acres. At 
 the N. E. corner is a lofty mound, 
 resembling that of Wodensborough 
 (Rte. 10). A well of very great 
 deptli was discovered many years 
 since in cutting a road throiigli the 
 centre of the intrenchnient ; and 
 Roman sepulchral remains have been 
 found in Waldershare Park (about 
 g m. distant), indicating the existence 
 there of an extensive cemetery. The
 
 224 
 
 Route 11. — Lydden. — EvxlL 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 iutrenelinients at Colilrcd were made, 
 s;iy.s tradition, " by a king of the 
 !<ame name." Hasted suggests that 
 there may be here some recoUcetion 
 of Ceolred of Mercia, who seems to 
 have been in Kent in the year 715. 
 The ch. itself has little interest, 
 with the exception perhajis of the 
 W. bell-turrets, whieh, uncoimnon 
 in England, are frequent on the 
 opposite side of the Channel.] 
 
 The main road will be regained 
 at L]/dden, Hi m. from Canterbury. 
 In tliis parish are the sources of a 
 kind of "nuilbourne," wliicli is said 
 to have air underground connection 
 witli the waters called for tliis reason 
 the "Lydden spouts," falling into 
 the sea from the cliffs at Hougham, 
 about 4 ni. distant. 
 
 From this point to Dover tlie road 
 inns between lofty, bare clialk hills, 
 not unpicturesque, and commanding 
 line views from tlieir sununits. The 
 little river Dour, which rises here, 
 and gives name to Dover, accom- 
 jianies the road through the valley 
 \>> the harbour. x\t 
 
 13 m. we pass tlirougli the village 
 of Ewell, or Temple Eivdl. The 
 manor was granted by William 
 Peverelle to the Knights Templars 
 l)efore 1185 ; and it was either here, 
 or at the Commandcry of tlie Tem- 
 ])lar3 in the adjoining i^arish of 
 Swingfield (Etc. 7), that the firmous 
 scene took place between John and 
 
 tlie legate randulph (1213), inwhicli 
 the king resigned his crown. Tlie 
 recognition by King Jolni of the 
 right of Abp. Laiigton to the see of 
 Canterbury, which was one result of 
 the meeting, is dated from "The 
 Temple of Ewell," thereby rendering 
 the claim of Ewell the more pro- 
 bable. There was no house of the 
 Templars at Dover, where the scene 
 of tlie resignation has somctuues 
 been laid. 
 
 The " Temple of Ewell " stood on 
 the hill 1. about 1 m. from the 
 village. The ancient buildings were 
 entirely removed toward the middle 
 of the last cent. Tlie present village 
 church is small and quite uninterest- 
 ing. 
 
 The word " minnis," which occurs 
 frequently in this part of Kent 
 (Swingfield Minnis, Ewell Minnis, 
 &c.), is, like the name of the Dour 
 rivulet, a Celtic relic, and signifies a 
 "stony common. ' 
 
 A very pictiu-esque view occurs 
 about 1 m. beyond Ewell, where the 
 church and village of River are seen 
 rt., whilst in front the valley opens 
 to Dover and the sea, the castle 
 rising grandly 1. At 
 
 14 m., the little village oiBuckland, 
 the stream of the Dom- is crossed : 
 beyond it, 1., is seen the Chm-ch of 
 Charlton, rebuilt in 1820; and the 
 tourist speedily enters 
 
 IG m. Dover. (See Rte. 7.)
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 SUSSEX. 
 
 ROUTE^^. 
 
 KOUTE 
 
 12. Tuiibridgc to Hastings 
 
 13. Hastings to Asliford .. . 
 
 14. Loudou to Brighton   .. 
 
 15. London, by Lewes, to Hast 
 
 ings 
 
 PAGE 
 
 . 22.5 
 . 245 
 . 254 
 
 26G 
 
 ROUTE PAOK 
 
 1(1. Brighton to Chichester .. . . 2'J2 
 
 17. East Grinstend to Hastings 32G 
 
 18. Horsham to Rlioreliam . . . . 33i 
 
 19. Godalming,by Fetworth and 
 
 Midhurst, to Chichester . . 313 
 
 ROUTE 12. 
 
 TUNBRIDGE TO HASTINGS. 
 
 (^South-Eastern Railu-ag, London Bridge 
 Station, Tnnhridge Wells and Hast- 
 ings Branch.) 
 
 Soon after leaving Tuubridge tlie 
 high gables of Summerhill (Baron 
 Goldsmid) are seenl. (See Ete. 1.) 
 Through a wooded district tlie railway 
 reaches 
 
 5 m. (46 m. from London) Tun- 
 hridge WelJs. {Inns : Calverley, best 
 and most extravagant, with extensive 
 pleasiu-e-grounds, and a terrace from 
 which a most noble view is com- 
 manded ; Mount Ephraim, well situ- 
 ated ; Eoyal Sussex, veiy good, on 
 the Pantiles. Tlie season is July, 
 August, and September, during 
 which months lodgings are exorbi- 
 tantly dear. The best and dearest 
 situations are Mount P^.phraim and 
 Calverley I'ark.) 
 
 Tuubridge Wells, with the single 
 exception of "The Batli," the oldest 
 
 watering-place in the kingdom, occu 
 pies the head and slopes of one of 
 the numerous valleys of the Weald, 
 through which tributary streamlets 
 til id their way to the IMedway. The 
 soil is rocky and sandy, with a mix- 
 ture of loani,wluch dries rapidly. The 
 general aspect is S.W. The views are 
 very fine, and probably no English 
 watering-place (inland) is better 
 placed. Three parishes, Tuubridge, 
 Frant, and Speldhurst, meet at the 
 Wells ; two counties, Kent and 
 Sussex ; and three ancient forests. 
 Bishop's DoNvn, Water Down, and S. 
 Frith, traces of wliieh remain in 
 riumerous scattered j^atehes of wood- 
 land. The three centres of popula- 
 tion are ]\Iount Ephraim, IMouiit 
 Sion (these names date from tlie 
 first "discovery" of the Wells, and 
 are said to have been suggested liy 
 some fancied resemblance to the site 
 of Jerusalem), and Blount rieasant : 
 separated by a broad and very plea- 
 sant conunon and race-course, and 
 by the Wells themselves. Calverley, 
 tlie name given to tlie hotel uul
 
 Route 12. — Tunhridge Wells. 
 
 Sect, II. 
 
 estate at tlie head of the valley, is a 
 corruption of Culverden, the "den' 
 (small wood) haunted by the culver 
 or wood-pigeon. 
 
 Tlie place is essentially quiet ; 
 little of gaiety or display goes on 
 here ; and the chief resources of the 
 visitors arc the agreeable country, 
 and tlie charming rides and walks in 
 the vicinity. It is still, as Evelyn 
 describes it, " a very sweet place, 
 private, and refreshing." 
 
 The waters, which rise in the l)ot- 
 tom of tlie valley, are chalybeate, clear 
 and bright, with a slight Init not un- 
 pleasant taste of steel. The infusion 
 of iron is not very powerful, and 
 many similar sjirings are to be 
 found throughout ihe " Forest Eidge" 
 of Sussex, and in different parts of 
 Kent. The " Wells " here were first 
 discovered about IGOG by Dudley, 
 L(u-d North — whose shattered health 
 was completely reinstated by them. 
 In a book pul)lishcd in 1(;37 he 
 recommends them in preference to 
 "the Spa in Germany," " a charge- 
 able and inconvenient journey to 
 .sick bodies." The spring had no 
 doidjt been long known to the 
 peasantry, for, as Meg Dods asserted 
 of St. llonan's Well, its steely taste 
 was traditionally said to have been 
 impartetl by the Devil, who, after his 
 conflict with St. Dunstan at Mayfield, 
 fled here to chp his nose in the water 
 liitherto pure and tasteless. Another 
 and perhaps more satisfactory ver- 
 sion attributes the chalybeate of the 
 spring to St. Dunstan himself, who, 
 finding that the enemy's nose hail 
 imparted an luiusual heat to his 
 tongs, cooled them in the water at 
 this place. 
 
 The nearest lodgings to be found 
 at the time of Lord North's discovery 
 were at Tnnlmdge,— hence the name 
 given to the Wells. Others were soon 
 erected, however, at Southborongh, 
 about half way between Tunbridge 
 and the Wells,'and at Rusthall. The 
 waters s])eedily obtained consider- 
 .able reputation, and Henrietta, queen 
 
 of Charles I., visited them more 
 than once ; the Cavaliers assembhng 
 at Southborough and the Puritans at 
 Rusthall. They rose into the highest 
 fashion after the restoration, and 
 e(hfying notices of the visits of the 
 Court here will be found m the pages 
 of Grammont. 
 
 " When the Court, soon after the 
 restoration, nsited Tunbridge Wells, 
 there was no town ; but witliiu a 
 mile of the siDrmg, rustic cottages, 
 somewhat cleaner and neater than 
 the ordinary cottages of that time, 
 were scattered over the heath. 
 Some of these cabins were moveable, 
 and were carried on sledges from 
 one part of the common to another. 
 To these huts, men of fasliion, 
 wearied with the din and smoke of 
 London, sometimes came in the 
 sunmier to breathe fresh air and to 
 catch a glimjjse of rural hfe. During 
 the season a kind of fair was daily 
 held near the fountain. The Avives 
 and daughters of the Kentish fanners 
 came from the neighbouring vil- 
 lages with cream, cherries, wheatears, 
 and quails. To chafter with them, 
 to flirt with them, to praise their 
 straw hats and tight heels, was a re- 
 fresliing pastime to voluptuaries siek 
 of the airs of aetresses and maids of 
 honour. Milliners, tojonen, and 
 jewellers came down from London 
 and opened a bazaar under the trees. 
 In one booth the pohtician miglit 
 find his coiiee and the London 
 Gazette ; in another were gamblers 
 jdaying deep at basset ; and on fine 
 evenings, the fiddles were in attend- 
 ance, and there were morris-dances 
 on tlie elastic turf of the bowling 
 green. In 1GS5 a subscription had 
 just been raised among those who 
 trequented the wells for building a 
 church, which the Tories, who then 
 domineered everywhere, insisted on 
 dedicatingto St. Charles the Martvr." 
 {Miir<iHhnj,Yi. E., i. 346.) 
 
 This ch. closely adjoins the Wells 
 (the pulpit is in the parish of Speld- 
 hurst, the altar in Timbridge, and
 
 Sussex, 
 
 Eoute 12. — Tanhrklge Wells. 
 
 227 
 
 the vestry in Fraut) — the present 
 urrangements of wliicli date from 
 1703, when John, Earl of Bucking- 
 ham, gave " tile Gro\^ " as a pro- 
 menade. Queen Anne snhsequentl}- 
 gave the Bason, called the Queen's 
 Well ; and in her honour the 
 "Queen's Grove," lately replaced by 
 younger trees, was planted on the 
 common. She contributed also 
 toward the pa\dng of the promenade 
 or "parade" with Pantiles, whence 
 its present name. This paving has 
 been replaced with stone, but the walk 
 .still retains much of the character 
 represented in a well-known and cu- 
 rious print of the last century ; when 
 Dr. Johnson strmibled along it, and 
 " all the good company on the Pan- 
 tiles " came to stare at Mrs. Elizabeth 
 Carter, " the woman who could talk 
 Greek faster than any one in Eng- 
 land." Beau Nash at this time pre- 
 sided over the " social arrangements " 
 of the Wells. 
 
 One or two names of historical 
 interest are connected with houses 
 still remaining at Tunbridge Wells. 
 Pope's Duke of Chandos died here 
 at Mount Pleasant House ; Lord 
 North, after his retirement, lived at 
 Grove House ; and Richard Gmn- 
 berland has given his name to a 
 house on Mount Sion, where he lived 
 for more than 20 years. " In this 
 .salubrious climate," he says, " I 
 never experienced so much iudispo- 
 .sition as to confine me to my bed 
 even for a single hour." 
 
 The Wells themselves arc at the 
 end of the Pantiles. The spring 
 retains its original situation ; but is 
 protected by a kind of jiortico or 
 piazza, completed in 1847. The 
 water is supplied by women in 
 attendance called Dippers. 
 
 On the Parade, the " Tunbridge 
 ware," for which the place is cele- 
 1)rated, may bo procured, of great 
 beauty, and at no very extravagantly 
 higli prices. TlH>re are one or two 
 manufactories of it at th(! Wells, but 
 the largest is in tlie town of Tun- 
 
 bridge itself. This species of inlay- 
 ing was introduced here from S]>a, iA 
 order to complete the resemblance 
 between the two watering-places. 
 Cherry, plum, holly, and sycamure 
 are tlie woods chiefly used. 
 
 Tlie nmllis from Tunbridge Wells 
 are numberless. The Cominon, furze 
 and fern covered, is crossed by broad 
 paths, wliich have the advantage of 
 rapidly di-ying after rain. The locks 
 scattered over it are characteristic 
 of the Hastings formation ; and 
 similar masses occur throughout the 
 Weald. On liiisthall Couiihou, 1 m., 
 is the Toad Bock, a remarkable logan- 
 like cluster, from wliicli there is a 
 striking view. The Hi<jh liorhg, 1^ 
 in., are the largest and most pictu- 
 resque in the neighbourhood. Among 
 them, INIrs. Carter found the " Sal- 
 vator-like scenes " through which she 
 wandered, "not without a kind of 
 pleasing terror." " Walking about 
 the solitudes," says Evelyn (10*)!)," I 
 greatly admired at the extravagant 
 turnings, insinuations, and growth of 
 certain birch-trees among the rocks." 
 There are still some remarkable 
 birch-trees among the High Eocks, 
 but the tourist who now visits them 
 will scarcely find the scene a " soli- 
 tude " as in Evelyn's time. They 
 have been enclosed, and the visitor is 
 admitted through a glazed porch, 
 after paying (J(/. Opposite the en- 
 trance is a little inn, called The 
 Cape of Good Hope. The High Pocks 
 are covered with inscriptions ; the 
 most edifying being the following 
 e])itapli on I3ow, a lapdog lost iu 
 one of the chasms : — 
 
 " 1702. 
 
 " Thi.s scratch I make tliat you may know 
 On this rock lyes ye beauleous Bow; 
 Keaiier, this IJock is the Bow's Bell, 
 Strike't with thy ■stick, ami ring his knell." 
 
 The "Bell rock," thus inscrilicd, 
 rings with a metallic sound when 
 struck. The walk to the High Rocks, 
 through lanes and hazel coppices, is 
 pleasant.
 
 228 
 
 Route 12. — Bayham Ahhey. 
 
 Sect. IL 
 
 rendiunj clmrch, 22 m., has some 
 Norm, portions. Ailjoitiing Pt mbury 
 Greeu is Great Baijlatll, an old seat 
 of the Ciilpepers. 
 
 Drires. — Penshurst, 7 m. (see Etc. 
 7. The interior is only shown on 
 Mondays and Saturdays, unless tlic 
 family are absent). Hever, 11 m. 
 (Rte. 7). Knowle and Sevenoaks, 
 11 m. (Etc. 6). IMayfield, 8 m. (see 
 2Jost. The distance is less from the 
 Tieehurst station, but the road from 
 Tunbridge Wells is vci-y lieautiful, 
 keeping- to the high ground the whole 
 way, and commanding noble views). 
 Withj'am and Buckhurst, 6 m. (Ete. 
 17). Other interesting excursions to 
 be made from Tuuln-idge Wells are 
 Bayhaui Abbey, Eridge, andGroom- 
 l»ridge. 
 
 ]j((i/h<(m AhliL'ij ([NFarquis Camden) 
 is distant 6 m. (the footway is 
 about 5 m.). The ruins are shown 
 on Tuesdays and Fridays. Both 
 ride and walk are very beautiful, 
 especially the latter, which leads 
 through the W(jods, and along tlie 
 edge of an extensive sheet of water 
 formed by the late marquis. The 
 modern house is a mere villa, sel- 
 dom inhabited, and so low as to 
 have its lawn and cellars flooded in 
 winter. The ruins of the Ahhey 
 stand in the groimds, and consist of 
 the eh. and some of its dependent 
 buildings. The walls of the nave, 
 choir, and transepts are tolerably 
 perfect, and much of the clerestory 
 remains. The ch. was about 57 ft. 
 long, very narrow (al)out 24 ft.) and 
 stone vaulted. It is late E. E. with 
 some Dec. adilitions in tlie nave, and 
 in a gateway N. of the ch. The de- 
 tails have considerable beauty. Ee- 
 jnark especially a cluster of foliage 
 in the nave, of admiral)le design and 
 execution. The E. end was apsidal, 
 this limb of the cross being unusually 
 sliort. A pile of ruin marks the site 
 of tile high altar. The doorways on 
 either side of the nave, S. and N., 
 were formed for commmiicating with 
 the transept l)y means of passages, 
 
 there being ]io side ais^les. Two of 
 the chapels in the N. transept retain 
 their vaulting. A stone coffin and a 
 few grave-slabs also remain. 
 
 Great and judicious care has been 
 bestowed on the ju'eservation of the 
 ruins, which are partly covered with 
 ivy. The iioor of greensward is kept 
 smooth, and the whole is in excellent 
 order. 
 
 Bayham was a liouse of Premon- 
 stratensian Canons, first founded at 
 Otteham, or Othani, in Sussex (see 
 Ete. 15), and removed herein ]200> 
 owing to the poverty of the original 
 site. It was largely endowed by 
 Ealph de Dene, the foiuider of the 
 house at Otham, by Eobert de 
 Tlinrnham, and by Ela de Sackville 
 of Buckhurst. The canons here 
 were in great favour with the sur- 
 rounding peasantry, and on the dis- 
 solution, after their first exijulsion, a 
 " company with painted faces and 
 vizors ' drove out the commissioners, 
 and put tlie canons in place agaui, 
 though not to remain long. After 
 passing through various hands Bay- 
 ham Abbey was purchased in 17i4 
 by Cliief Justice Pratt, to whose de- 
 scendant it gives a subordinate title. 
 
 It has been suggested that the 
 peculiar form of the ch. tells its 
 own tale. Stern Premonstratcnsian 
 canons (the order was one of great 
 strictness) wanted no congregations 
 and cared for no processions ; there- 
 fore thev built their ch. like a long 
 room. ' {A. J. B. Hope.) The 
 churches of other religious orders, 
 which sought more to attract the 
 people, exhibit ditferent arrange- 
 ments. 
 
 On the stream, about 1 m. be- 
 low Bayham Abbey, is the site of 
 Ghiurcgter Furnace, an ancient iron- 
 work, so called in lionour of a visit 
 from the Duke of Gloucester, son of 
 Queen Anne. This furnace disputes 
 with one at Mayfield the distinction 
 of liaving cast "the great balustrade 
 still remaining round St. PaulV 
 Catliedral.
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 1 2. — ErkJge, — Groomhridge. 
 
 22<,t 
 
 2^ in. beyond Bayliam, in Liunljcr- 
 luirst, is Scotneij Castle, of wliicli one 
 line round tower, luachicolated, re- 
 mains. It was a seat of Abji. Chi- 
 eheley, 1-118, and long continued the 
 residence of his collateral descendants 
 the DarreUs, whose house here is said 
 to have been rebuilt l)y Iiiigo Jones. 
 
 Eruhfc. (Earl of AbergavennA') is 
 about 3 m. from the Wells. This 
 place has been in the Neville family 
 above 500 years ; but the castle and 
 all the cottages about it have been re- 
 built during thein-esent centmyin the 
 worst possible taste, the castle itself 
 being ipiite -northy of a place in 
 Pugin's ' Contrasts.' Great care is 
 taken to exclude the puljhc from the 
 park and plantations, which are very 
 extensive. The green rides cut 
 thr(jugh the woods in all directions 
 are said to exceed 70 ni. in length. 
 Saxonbury hill, on the W. side of the 
 park, is crowned by an ancient cir- 
 cular entrenchment : m the centre 
 of the area is a prospect tower, the 
 views from which, especially toward 
 Crowborongh, S.W., are magnificent. 
 Notliing, however, is shown either in 
 the house or grounds. The only 
 (and a very good) view of the house 
 is obtained by driving to Bridge 
 Green, and walking thence about 2 
 m. to Frant, while the carriage pro- 
 ceeds by another road. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth passed six days at 
 Eridge in 1578. "From Bridge, mj- 
 L. of Burgenys house," writes Lord 
 Burleigh, " the Queen's Majesty had 
 a hard begyning of a progress in the 
 'Weald of Kent, and namely in some 
 part of Sussex, where sm-ely are more 
 wondeross rocks and valleys, and 
 much worss ground, than in tlie 
 Peck." My Lord Burleigh had pro- 
 bably seen and marvelled at the 
 range called "Eridge Eocks,' 1. of 
 Eridge Green, of the same character 
 as those nearer Tunbridge Wells. 
 They are more important, however, 
 than the High Eocks, and more pic- 
 turescpiely shrouded in woods of 
 pine and oak. About 2 m. furtlier. 
 
 and lying a short distance oft" llie 
 Brighton road, are Uarrisoii's Eocks, 
 and Perm s Eocks, named from the 
 great Quaker, who had an estate iu 
 the neighbourhood. All these rocks 
 are worth visithig. At Harrison's 
 Eocks the beautiful Osmunda rega- 
 hs, the (pieen of British ferns, gi-ows 
 plentifully. 
 
 At Groomhrichje, 3^ m. from Tun- 
 bridge Wells, is the Moat House, 
 on the site of the old seat of the 
 Wallers, W'here the Duke of Orleans 
 was detained a prisoner for 25 years 
 after Agincourt. The duke was 
 found iifter the battle mider a hca]> 
 of dead bodies, by Eichaid Waller of 
 Groondjridge, who had greatly dis- 
 tinguished himself. He was re- 
 covered, and committed to the cus- 
 tody of his captor. During his 
 detention at Groomb ridge he is Sidd 
 to have re])uilt the house ; and also 
 to have built the church oi'Speldhursf, 
 I3 m., in wliich parish Groombridgc 
 stands. This ch. was destroyed by 
 lightning in 1791. A stone over the 
 porch, on which are the arms of the 
 Duke of Orleans, was in-cservcd, and 
 attached to the 8. porch of the new 
 building, where it still remains. 
 
 The chapel by the roadside mai- 
 Groombridge was rebuilt in 1625, 
 after the return of Prince Charks 
 from Spain, and was subscqxiently 
 dedicated to Saint Charles the Mai- 
 tyr. accordhig to Kilburn. 
 
 The jiark of Great Bounds (3 m. 
 Sir Charles Hardinge) has some 
 pleasant scenery. In the birch 
 wood is a column erected to the 
 memory of Lady Catherine Stewart, 
 first wife of the Marquis of London- 
 derry, then General Stewart. 
 
 From Frant Cliurch (2^ m. S. of 
 the Wells) may be seen Dungeness 
 and Beachey Head. The 3 i)oints form 
 one of the triangles of the Ordnance 
 Survey. On the green are the old 
 butts for archery. The views from 
 this high gromid rank among (lie 
 finest woodland scenery in England. 
 Longer excursions may be made
 
 230 
 
 Boute 12, — Ticehurst. — Mayfield. 
 
 Sect, ir 
 
 from TuiibiiJc;;e Wells to Cranhrool; 
 along the ridge extending into the 
 Weald of Kent (see Kte. 7), or to 
 East Griustead, and the wild country 
 of Ashdown Forest (I?te. 17). 
 
 Proeeeding toward Hastings, after 
 passing Frant (3 m., see (uite) and 
 Wadhiast (2 m.), where the ch., 
 otherwise uninteresting, contains a 
 curions proof of the former activity 
 of the furnaces in this district, in the 
 shape of thirty iron grave-slal>s, tlie 
 railway reaches 
 
 Ticehurst lioad, G m. The borders 
 of Kent have been skirted nearly tlio 
 •whole way from Tunbridge Wells, 
 and fine views are occasionally 
 opened across the Weald country on 
 either side. Tlie village of Tieelinrst 
 is al^out 4 m. 1. from the station. 
 In its Pcrp. ch. are consideralde re- 
 mains of stained glass ; the letter W., 
 in a coloured roundel, possibly indi- 
 cates that the windows were the gift 
 of John Wybarne, whose remarkable 
 brass still remains here. The figures 
 of his 2 wives, on either side, are mucli 
 smaller than his own, of whicli tlie 
 armour must date nearly a century 
 earlier tlian 1490, the year inscribed 
 on the brass. It is suggested that 
 an earlier l)rass was approi^riated, or 
 that the artist copied that at Etcliyng- 
 ham (see post). 
 
 Boarzell and Pashley, ancient 
 houses in tliis parisli, may perhai>.s 
 reward examination. 
 
 Ticehurst, hke the other hursts in 
 this district, indicates the ancient 
 presence of deep forest, much of 
 wliieh still remains. Its glades and 
 thickets were once tlie liaimts of 
 tlie fairy Tys, who, like his Saxon 
 brethren, Niji, and Trip, and Job, has 
 left his name to many an English 
 green wood. The whole country is 
 broken iuto the most j^i'-'turesque 
 hill and dale. 
 
 [The Ticehurst station is the best 
 point from which to visit the very 
 interesting remains at Mayfidd (5 
 m. rt.) The oountiy on either side 
 is still wooded and "full of vurietv. 
 
 The village itself stands high, com- 
 manding wide ^^ews. Mayfield was 
 a " peculiar " of the archbishops of 
 Canterbury, and one of the line of si- 
 milar parishes which extended across 
 the country from the borders of Kent 
 to the neighbourhood of Lewes. 
 
 Al)p. Dunstan built the first ch. at 
 Magavdda, as in other villages re- 
 mote from Canterbury, where he had 
 residences. It was of wood, and, find- 
 ing when dedicating it that its posi- 
 tion was not exactly E. and W., he 
 put his shoulder to it, and " aliquau- 
 tuliun pressit " the whole building 
 into the right direction (Eadmer, Y. 
 S. Dun.). Either before or after 
 this miracle, Mayfield was the scene 
 of St. Dunstan 's famous contest with 
 the Devil. After holding the evil 
 spirit with his tongs for some time, 
 the saint let him go, when he leaped 
 at one bound to Tunltridge Wells, and, 
 plunging his nose into the s]ning, 
 imparted to it its chalybeate qualities. 
 Such is the local story, scarcely less 
 accurate than that of the "Acta." 
 
 The palace, adjoining the churcl.', 
 tvas a favourite residence of the Abps. 
 An important council, regulating the 
 celeliration of holydays and saints' 
 festivals, was held here in 1332, 
 under Abp. Mepliam, who, like Abps. 
 Stratford and Islij), died at Mayfield. 
 The last-named archbishop biult 
 tlie greater part of the palace here, 
 " and wasted more of the timber hi 
 the Dourdennes (Weald of Kent), 
 than any of liis predecessors." (S. 
 di' Birclilngton.) He fell from liis 
 horse in riding between Sevenoaks 
 and Tunl)ridge ; did not change his 
 dress, and atf er dinner, at Mayfield, 
 was seized vni\\ paralj-sis,— a fate 
 which Aubrey might have recorded 
 among his examples of oak-cutters' 
 misfortunes (see Nunvood, Jland- 
 hool; for Surrey, Ac). Cranmer ex- 
 changed Mayfield with the king for 
 other lands, and it has since passed 
 through the hands of many dif- 
 ferent proprietors. Sir Thos. G res- 
 ham, Iniilder of tlie Exchange, re-
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 12. — Mayfidd Palace. 
 
 231 
 
 stiJed here occasionally in great 
 state, and entertained Elizabeth 
 during one of her progresses. About 
 1740 the house was completely dis- 
 mantled, and left to become the ruin 
 it now is. 
 
 The large Perp. Church of May- 
 field, dethcated of course to St. 
 Dunstan, is of no very liigh interest ; 
 but the remains of the Palace of 
 the Abps. deserve the most carefid 
 nttention. They are partly Dec. of 
 the 11th, and Perp. of the 16th, 
 cent. The building, the plan of which 
 was irregular, consisted of a prin- 
 cipal hall, with apartments at the E. 
 end, having projections in the form 
 of square towers. At the lower end 
 of the hall were the kitchen and 
 buttery, and a tower with servants' 
 apartments. On the S. side was the 
 porter's lodge. 
 
 The most ancient part of tlic 
 l)uilding is the Great JfaU, dating 
 about 1350, and evidently the work 
 of Abp. Islip. Tlie stone used is the 
 .sand rock of the neiglibourhood. The 
 porch is massive and well propor- 
 tioned. The arches, turned above the 
 windows, between the buttresses, and 
 " thus made to sustain a longituilinal 
 as well as an outward pressure," 
 should be remarked. Pinnacles pro- 
 bably once existed on the buttress- 
 heads, balancing the thrust of the 
 internal arch. " The whole design is 
 .singular, but beautifub and has been 
 followed to some extent in the new 
 library at St. Augustine's, Canter- 
 bury." The transoms of the win- 
 dows are peculiar to the domestic 
 architecture of tlie time. Their tra- 
 cery is remarkabh^ and should be 
 compared with that in the hall- 
 windows at Penshurst, and in the 
 windows of Chartham Church, near 
 Canterbury (lite. 8). Three lofty 
 stone arches spanned the hall when 
 perfect, and sustained a timber roof 
 of acute pitch, resembling the earlier 
 one at the Mote, Ightham, Kent, 
 Avliere the centre arch is of stone, 
 with timber lu-ches at each cud. 
 
 " The stone arches (at Mayfield) 
 clearly supported the roof, in which 
 they took the place of i)rincipals. 
 In the walls above the arches there 
 are corbels which evidently sup- 
 ported arched pieces under the 
 purlines, and which probably sujk 
 ported also queen-posts, as we should 
 call them. It is to be lamented that 
 the timber roof should have been 
 destroyed, for it was probably 
 unique."— J. H. Parker. Remark 
 the vine, ivy, and oak-leaf of the 
 roof corbels, bits of "natmulism " of 
 the very best period. The stone; 
 diaper work at the upper end marks 
 the seat of the archbishop. (Conq). 
 that in Canterbury Cathedral, over 
 Dunstan's shrine.) The closed win- 
 dow in the wall above probably 
 communicated with his private apart- 
 ments. Internal lengUi of hall, G8 
 ft. ; breadth, 38 ft. ; height, 50 ft. 
 
 In" the Great DinuKj-Itoom, occu- 
 pying one side of the quadrangle, is 
 a hooded chimney-piece of stone, 
 perhaps older than the hall. Ob- 
 serve the open lead work and fleur- 
 de-lys in the window of a lower room, 
 perhaps a larder. In this part of the 
 building are exliibited some vener- 
 aide relics : St. Dunstan's anvil, 
 hammer, and tongs, of course the 
 identical pair with which he pinched 
 the Devil. An ancient sword, called 
 St. Dunstan's, may also be inspected. 
 "The anvil and tongs are of no great 
 antiquity, but the hammer, with its 
 solid iron handle, may be medianal." 
 {M. A. Lower.) All are of local 
 manufacture, as is the massive hand- 
 rail of the great stone staircase. 
 Observe also what seems to be an 
 iron mustard-mill, of 15th cent. work. 
 Tliis parish, like others of the 
 arcliljishop's " peculiars," stretching- 
 through the Weald towards Lewes, is 
 in the heart of the Sussex iron 
 cUstrict (see Introduction : Sussex^. 
 Mayfield had important furnaces, 
 and the iron copings of Ilochester 
 Bridge (now destroyed), presented 
 early in the 16th cent, by Abp.
 
 2;}2 
 
 Roite 12. — Etchingham. — Haichhurd. 
 
 Sect. 
 
 11. 
 
 Wailiam, were probably manufac- 
 tured here. {M. A. Lower.) 
 
 N. of the hall are traces of a sub- 
 terranean passage, said to have led 
 to the church. St. Dunstan's Well, 
 carefully walled round, adjuins the 
 kitchen apartments. Thomas May, 
 the liistorian of the Long rarliament, 
 ■\vas bcu'n in the palace in 1595. 
 
 The village of Mayfield is a good 
 centre from wliich to explore the 
 l^icturescpie scenery of the surround- 
 ing district. Eotheriield and Crow- 
 borough Hill may be visited from 
 here; and the pedestrian will lind 
 u walk through the wild country 
 between IMayfield and East Grinstead 
 full of interest. (See Ete. 17.) The 
 accommodations both at Mayfield and 
 tlie other villages on this line are 
 .suthciently rustic, but the never fail- 
 ing Sussex resource of eggs and 1 lacon 
 may always be depended on, and, for 
 the most part, the cleanliness and 
 lavender sheets of Isaac Walton's old- 
 fashioned inn.] 
 
 I! ni. beyond the Ticehurst Road 
 station the railway reaches Etclu'iig- 
 liain. The ch. here, close to the 
 station, is of great interest. It is 
 througliout late Dec, and the general 
 mass, with sqirare tower, staircase 
 turret, and high-pitched roof, is very 
 medireval. The nave windows are 
 unusual in form and tracery. The 
 chancel is of great length The pe- 
 culiar arrangement of steps should 
 be noticed. The two westernmost 
 windows on eitlier side are deep and 
 large, the third raised high in the 
 wall, and much smaller. The E. 
 window is flamboyant. The original 
 wood fittings remain in Ihe choir. 
 (Jn the X. side, without, are indica- 
 tions of a chantry. The chancel door 
 (S.) should be noticed ; the font 
 seems to be E. E., and perhaps 
 belonged to an earlier ch. The 
 1)01 ch with its bargeboard is original. 
 (C(jmp. the churches of Alfreston 
 and Poynings, both in this county 
 — of the same period, but diifering 
 in details.) In the nave is a monu- 
 
 ment, with Latin inscription ancl 
 medallion l)ust, to Henrv Corboidd, 
 F.S.A., father of the artists. The 
 ch. was built by Sir WiUiam de 
 Etchyngham (died 1387), part of 
 whose fine brass remains in the 
 chancel, mtli a rhyming inscription 
 somewhat resembling that on the 
 BLick Pi'ince's tomb at Canterbury. 
 Adjoining is the brass of another 
 Sir William, liis wife, and son, mider 
 a triple canopy (1441). A helmet, 
 another Etchingham relic, hangs in 
 tlic S. aisle. The ch. has been 
 most carefully restored throughout : 
 the chancel at the cost of the rector, 
 the Eev. Dr. Totty, now (1857) in 
 his 101st year. The chm-chyard, in 
 which is a fine old yew, was once 
 moated, as was the ancient manor- 
 house of the Etchynghams, over the 
 site of which the railway now passes. 
 This family was already estabhshed 
 here early in the reign of Henry III.. 
 and continued lords of Etchyngham 
 until that of Elizabeth. 
 
 The house of Uaremare (John 
 Snejip, Esq.), in this parish, contains 
 some cmious carving. At Seacoch'if 
 Heath is a large house said to have beei i 
 built liy a famous gang of smugglers, 
 whose head-quarters were at Goud- 
 liurst, and who infested all this 
 district between the years 1740 and 
 1750. The Eother, which winds close 
 to the chiuvh, was anciently navig- 
 able as high as Etchingham. 
 
 The Church of Burivash, on the 
 ridge 3 m. W., contains the oldest 
 existing article produced by Sussex 
 iron-founders. It is a cast-iron .slab, 
 with cross and inscription of the 
 14th cent., " Orate p. annenia Jhone 
 Coline,"' probably an iron "mistress ' 
 in the neighbourhood. 
 
 [The i)leasant village of Huirl- 
 hurst (about 4 m. E.) may be visited 
 from the Etchingham station. Tlie 
 greater part of the parish (iiieluding 
 the ch.) lies in Kent. The large 
 sandstone ell. is Dec. and Peip. 
 The rich and peculiar tracery of 
 the E. window deserves notice.
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 12. — Rolcrtd ridge. 
 
 Zo-J 
 
 (Comp. Etchynghani. The tux-liitect 
 was proliably the same in Ijuth 
 mstances.) Tliere are N. and S. 
 porches, each -with a parvise cliamher. 
 Tlie Abbot of Battle, lord of the 
 manor, erected the first ch. liere, 
 temp. Edw. III. (Hussey.) 
 
 Hawkhurst, like all the villages 
 in tliis neighbourhood, enjoyed, for 
 great part of the hist century, a bad 
 preeminence as the resort of smug- 
 glers and " water-thieves. " "I found 
 an old newspaper t'otlier d^iy," wrote 
 Walpole in 1750, to Montague, who 
 had an estate near Hawkhurst, " with 
 a list of outlawed smugglers. Tliere 
 were John Price, aUasMias Majoram, 
 Bob Plunder, Bricklayer Tom, and 
 Roliin Cursemother, — all of Ilawk- 
 hurst in Kent." 
 
 Tlie irou-fm-uaces of Hawkhiu-st 
 were at one tune the property of 
 William I'enn, the courtier-quaker, 
 wlio i^ossessed many others in Sussex. 
 The village stands on high ground, 
 and commands fine views over the 
 Weald. In tlie neighbourhood is Col- 
 ling icood (Sir John Herschel, Bart.)] 
 S. of Etchuigliam the rail enters 
 a pleasant tract of country, wldeh 
 reaches quite to Hastings. Hounded, 
 wood-covered lulls, and, in the lower 
 groiuids, farms enringed with bright 
 green pastmes, intersected by narrow 
 lines of coppice, olier a constant suc- 
 cession of thoroughly EngHsh pic- 
 tures. In the midst of such scenery Ucs 
 liohertshridye ('6 m.), where arc the 
 .scanty remains of a Cistercian abbey, 
 founded by Robert de St. Martin in 
 1I7(J. Its position, on the Pother, at 
 a point wliere several small .streams, 
 muting, flow on to Bodiam Castle, is 
 in accordance ^vith the almost uni- 
 versal choice of the discii)les of Ber- 
 nard, who preferred the river valleys 
 to the Iiills. A crypt remains nearly 
 perfect, and the position of the chapel 
 may be traced, jjut the rest is too 
 completely ruined to be appropriated. 
 Au " oasthouse " with a curious 
 conical roof full of sparrows' nests 
 shows some fragments of arches. In 
 
 the Bodleian is preserved a volume 
 liaviiig on one of its pages the words, 
 "This book belongs to St. Mary of 
 Robertsbridge ; whoever shall steal 
 or sell it, let liim be Anathema Ma- 
 ranatliii." That this inseriijtion was 
 not without its terrors is proved by 
 the lines written below : " I, John, 
 Bp. of Exeter, know not where the 
 aforesaid house is ; nor chd I steal 
 this book, but acqiur-cd it in a lawful 
 way." The abbots of Robertsbridge 
 and Boxley, both Cistercian houses, 
 were sent into Germany on the de- 
 tention of Coeur de Lion, in order to 
 ascertain the cause and jdace of his 
 imprisonment. (Suss. Arch. Coll.) 
 
 Horace Walpole, who, to the im- 
 minent peril of his neck, travelled in 
 1752 through the "luirie ways" of 
 Kent and Sussex in search of castles 
 and abbeys, found Robertsbridge 
 nearly as vuiknown as it seems to 
 have been in the days of Bp. John. 
 "Without being at "all killed," he 
 says " we got uj), or down, I forget 
 whicli, it was so dark, a famous jjre- 
 cipice called Silcer Hill, and about 
 lU arrived at a wretclied village 
 called Pother (Robert's) bridge. We 
 had (j miles farther, liut determined 
 to stop, as it would be a pity to break 
 our necks before we had seen all we 
 intended. But alas ! there was only 
 one bed to be had. All the rest 
 were inhabited by smugglers, whom 
 the people of the liouse called Mounte- 
 haulc, and with one of whom the lady 
 of the den told j\Ir. Cluite he might 
 he." But :Mr. Chute "could not take 
 to this societ3%" and about two in 
 the morning the travellers arrived at 
 Battle. (Lefters, vol. i.). In return- 
 ing, the lord of Strawberry luxuriated 
 in the view from Silver Hill, Mhieli 
 extends far and wide over the Wealds 
 of Ihe 2 counties. "It commands a 
 whole horizon of the richest blue 
 prospect you ever saw." This "pre- 
 cipice " stretches up behind Salehurst 
 Churcli, conspicuous from the rail- 
 way. It has some E. E. portions, 
 and nuiy repay a visit.
 
 234 
 
 Route 12.— Battle 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Iridije Place (Sir. S. Miclde- 
 tlnvuit, Bart.), Iligham (Mrs. Lux- 
 ford), and Wigsell, formerly the re- 
 sidence of the Culpepers, are in this 
 parish. 
 
 Professor Aire}''s tlicory, Avhich 
 lands Ca3sar at Pevenscy, lixes tlio 
 battle at -which Laherins was killed 
 here at the Eother. {Arcltifoloijia, 
 vol. xxxiv.). 
 
 Bodiam Cnstle may he visited 
 from this station, from -wliich it is 
 distant aliont -i m. An excursion to 
 it from Hastings, however, may be 
 made to comprise Norfhiain and 
 Brede, and is more to be recom- 
 mended (see post). 
 
 Through the same undulating- 
 country the train reaches 
 
 Battle (6 m.). A pictiu'csrpie view 
 v)f the] abbey gateway, and of tlie 
 church, surrounded by trees, is seen 
 from the railway. Tlie abbey, which 
 has recently (1857) become the pro- 
 perty of Lord Harry Vane, is open 
 to ^the public on Tuesdai/s and Fri- 
 days ; and although much has been 
 done to hinder the associations of the 
 place from producing tlieir full effect, 
 it still remains one of tlie most in- 
 teresting sites in England. 
 
 The cjreut battle, which the abbey 
 rose to comnremorate, must first be 
 noticed ; and if, before visiting the 
 I'uins, the tourist passes to the high 
 ground N. of the town, he will find 
 himself in view of nearly all the 
 localities : many of which may also 
 be seen from the ten-ace of what is 
 c-alled the banqueting hall, witliin 
 the abbey. 
 
 After defeating the Norwegians at 
 Stamford Bridge, Harold, passing 
 i-apidly S., took up his jJOsition on the 
 rising ground now occupied by the 
 abbey. His camp was protected l)y 
 deep dykes, and by a breastwork of 
 stakes and Inn-dles. The position 
 commanded the only pass iidand from 
 Hastings, for E. were broad woods 
 and deep marshes, and W. the great 
 Anderida forest still covi-red the 
 country. A defeat would therefore 
 
 have been all but irreparable by the 
 Normans. " Had the entrenchments 
 of Battle been held -n'ith the same 
 enduring coolness as the lines of 
 Torres Vedras or the slopes of Water- 
 loo, the Normans would have fallen 
 back dispirited and starved ; in a 
 day or two they would perhaps have 
 been attacked by superior forces, 
 and, in all probability, the glory 
 of the Norman name would Jiave 
 perished on the plains of Hastings." 
 — {Prof. Aireij, Arclixol., xxxiv.) 
 
 WUliam marched from Hastings 
 along the 8.W. slope of the ridge 
 extending from Fairlight to Battle, 
 passing through what is now Crow- 
 hurst Park to Telham Hill, then 
 called Jlelheland (within sight S. of 
 Battle, and marked by a white farm- 
 liouse). This point, a mile distant 
 from the Saxon camp, he reached 
 early on the morning of Oct. 14th, 
 10G6, the feast of St. Calixtus. Here 
 he and his knights armed. The 
 duke's own hawberk was brought 
 to him reversed; a bad omen, but 
 one that he made light of, as he 
 had done by his fall on the beach. 
 (See Pevenaey, lite. 1.5.) Here also 
 he vowed, if he should be victorious, 
 to build on the field of battle a great 
 abl)ey, for the souls of the slain, and 
 in honour of St. Martin, the i^atron 
 of soldieis. The holy banner, blessed 
 by the pope, and containing- within 
 its staff one of the hairs of St. Peter, 
 was then raised, and the army moved 
 forward. On all the surrounding- 
 heights Saxon monks and priests 
 had posted themselves, watching and 
 praying. 
 
 • Tidllefer the Jongleur first ad- 
 vanced toward the Saxon camp, sing- 
 ing the song of Roland. He struck 
 the first blows, and fell himself later 
 in the battle, which then began 
 in earnest. The Norman cry was 
 " Dien aide ;" the Saxon " Out, out ! 
 Holy cross, (ilod Almighty." Harold'.s 
 army would have been invincible 
 had it remained within the en- 
 trenchments, but the Normans pre-'
 
 Sussio:. 
 
 Eoute 12.— Battle. 
 
 235 
 
 tended to retreat, the Saxons broke 
 out upon them, and Eustace of 
 Boiilogne fell on the Saxon rear. In 
 tliis fliglit and pursuit Normans and 
 Saxons fell into a ditch called the 
 Malfosse in wliich many perished. 
 This Malfosse has been fixetl at the 
 .stream which rims under Caldbcck 
 Hill toward Wallington (N.W. of 
 Battle). It was then a morass. 
 
 The battle was then renewed. The 
 Norman arrows had not yet done 
 much execution, but William now 
 directed the archers to shoot upward 
 into tlie ail', and one of tliese de- 
 scending sliafts pierced Harold's 
 eye. The battle, wliich liad hitlierto 
 seemed desperate on the part of 
 the Normans, now turned in their 
 favour. Twenty knights bound 
 themselves by a vow to carry off 
 the Saxon standard. They suc- 
 ceeded ; many fell ; and in the struggle 
 Harold himself was struck twice 
 on the helmet and thigh ; by whom 
 was never known, (jrurth and Leof- 
 wine, his brothers, also fell at this 
 time. Tliis decided the battle, which, 
 liowever, struggled on until the even- 
 ing, when the remaining Saxons fled 
 to the woods. It had lasted the 
 wliole day. William supjied and slept 
 on the spot where Harold liad fallen. 
 
 The main scene of tlio fight was 
 then "probably a down covered witli 
 lieath and furze — a wild rough com- 
 mon without houses or trees." (M. A. 
 
 iSancfuelac, or " the lake," is the 
 name given to that part of the town 
 lying E. of the ch., — tradition says 
 Ijccause of the blood sjiilt tliere. The 
 earliest form, however, in which the 
 word ,'ippears is Sindlarhc Local 
 " folk-lore " found another trace of 
 the battle in the Utile rivulet Asten, 
 close by — 
 
 ■" Asten once dishiined willi native Englisli 
 blood. 
 Whose soil yet, uben but wot with any 
 
 little rain. 
 Doth blush, as put in mind of those there 
 sadly slain. " 
 
 Drayton, I'tAjolb. 
 
 Its som-ces arc chalybeate springs 
 tinged with red. Tellutm Hill, where 
 the Conqueror's standard was raised, 
 is, says tradition, probably Tcllrnau 
 hill, because William there " told his 
 men." So Caldhec is converted into 
 "Call-back" Hill, because the Con- 
 queror here called hncl; his pursuing 
 troop. The name of " Moidjoi/e," one 
 of the divisions of the hundred of 
 Battle, was occasionally given to a 
 heap of stones set up as a monument 
 of victory, and may have been so 
 here ; but it also frequentl}^ occurs as 
 the name of a sjiot from which the 
 first view of a great religious house 
 was obtained. 
 
 To the Watch Oal;W. of the town, 
 on the London road, a vague tradi- 
 tion is attached referring to some 
 watcli set the night before or after 
 the battle. Standard Hill, in the 
 parish of Ninfleld, some distance E., 
 cannot possildy refer to the po.sition 
 of the Saxon or Norman standai'd, 
 though of course so fixed on by the 
 local guides. All these localities 
 liave been most carefully investigated 
 by ]\Ir. M. A. Lower, whose descrip- 
 tions (see his vol. entitled ' Coidri- 
 hidious to Litrratnre ') have here been 
 followed. 
 
 It is worth remarlving that the 
 battle was not improlmbly fought on 
 Harold's own land. Nearly all the 
 manors on this southern coast had 
 been the property of liis father. Earl 
 Godwin ; and that of Crowliurst, the 
 limits i^f which very likely extended 
 beyond the then wild scene of the 
 liattle, belonged to Harold himself. 
 
 The tourist may now proceed to 
 the aljbey. With his mind " forcibly 
 carried back to the time when the 
 battle-field was strewn with dead 
 warriors, and then to the period when 
 sallow monks cooled their shorn 
 lieads jierhajis under the verj' oaks 
 that now shadow us, ho is beginning 
 to feel that Hume and Smollet's 
 History is really and truly not a 
 fiction." {Ilouii'-liitid Word>i, ix.) He 
 M'ill find, however, that, like other
 
 236 
 
 Route V2.~Battlc Abhe^. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 liistoiic relics of Old Eiigliiiid, Battle 
 Abbey "opens only with silver keys.' 
 Tlie pilgrimage, moreover, must be 
 made in the company of some dozens of 
 visitors, congenial or otherwise. "We 
 are by no means at liberty to hold 
 communion with the spirits of llie 
 past that dwell among tlie lichens and 
 the mould," but are driven onward 
 iu the regular train. Without at all 
 desiring, like Mrs. Elizabeth Carter, 
 who visited Battle toward the end 
 of the last century, "to have the 
 ground i)lauti'd with yew and cy- 
 press, to turn the proi>rietor out of 
 ins usurped abode, and restore the 
 screech-owls and ravens," some al- 
 teration in the present arrangements 
 is much to be wished for. " The 
 soil has its owner, and ma}' his crops 
 be abmidaut ! Imt to all of us lielong 
 the associations that draw pilgrims 
 to it." {^Household Words.^ 
 
 The " Abbey of St. Martin of the 
 place of the battle " (Domesday), 
 the " token and pledge of the royal 
 crown," as it was called by its monks, 
 rose on the very spot where the 
 Saxon standard fell, within 10 years 
 after the Conquest. William Faber, 
 a Norman knight who had heard the 
 Conqueror's vow on Telham Hill, 
 and who had afterwards made him- 
 self a monk in the Benedictine abbey 
 of Mannoutier, was intrusted with 
 the work ; in order to which he 
 brought over with him 4 monks of 
 great re])utation from his Norman 
 abbey. William endowed it richly, 
 marking a " Icuga " about the aliljey 
 — a circle of 3 miles diameter — ex- 
 empt from all customs and domina- 
 tion. Special rights and jtrivileges 
 were conferred on the abbot, who 
 had the liberty of releasing from 
 punishment " any condemned thief, 
 robber, or other criminal " he should 
 chance to meet anywhere throughout 
 England. The abbey itself was not 
 consecrated until lOOf), when William 
 Kufus, accompanied by Ab}). Anschu 
 and a great train of ])relates, visited 
 it for the purj)ose. Its great i)rivi- 
 
 leges, and especially its freedom from 
 episcopal jurisdiction, involved the 
 abbey in peqietual disputes with the 
 bishops and archbishops, which in- 
 deed make up the principal part of 
 its history until the cUssolution, when 
 the house was found in no good con- 
 dition. It was, wrote Commissioner 
 Layton, " the worst that ever I see 
 in all other places ; whereas I see 
 specially the blake sort of dy vellyshe 
 monks." The annual value of Battle 
 was then 8G0Z., marking it as among 
 the wealthiest abbeys of England. 
 It was granted to Sir Anthony 
 Browne, the proxy of Henry VIII. 
 on his marriage with Anne of Cleves. 
 It contuiued in the hands of liis de- 
 scendants — the Lords Montacute of 
 Cowdray (which place had also be- 
 longed to Sir Anthony Browne), 
 until sold by the fourth Lord ]\Ionta- 
 eute to Sir Thomas Webster, from 
 whose descendant it has recently 
 passed to Lord Harry Vane. 
 
 The abbey buildings were con- 
 verted into a mansion-house by Sir 
 Anthony Browne, and far more has 
 been jireserved than the " few found- 
 ation-stones in the midst of a swamp," 
 which, as Dr. Lappeidjerg is pleased 
 to assert, are the only visible monu- 
 ments of the Conquest. 
 
 The [jute-honw, fronting the street, 
 is for the most part late Dee., and 
 proliably the work cif Abbot Bethynge, 
 who obtained a licence to fortify and 
 embattle his monastery, 12 Edw. III., 
 its position near the sea rendering 
 such precautions not rmnecessary. 
 " A small portion of the gate-house 
 front shows ndjl.)le masonry and a 
 Norman buttress" {Ilusseij), which 
 must have been united with the new 
 work. The Dec. part is very beauti- 
 ful, and one of the best specimens of 
 the time. The long range of building, 
 rt., was for some time used as tlie 
 town-hall, but has been allowed to 
 fall into ruin. The house nearest the 
 gateway W. was the ancient Jiospital 
 for pilgrims, and is still called tlu' 
 Almonry. Passing within the gate-
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 12.— Battle Abbey. 
 
 237 
 
 way, the visitor fiiuls himself in front 
 of tlie present dwening-house, and 
 may tirst inspeet the hull, whieli, witli 
 a vaulted room adjoining, is the 
 only i^art shown. The ahhatial hall 
 is interesting solely on its own ac- 
 count, and in spite of its many 
 decorations, among which is Wil- 
 lihis' large iiicture of the Battle of 
 Hastings. Tlie adjoining room is 
 tliought to have been the Locntorium 
 or " parlour," in wliich strangers 
 were received. Many other portions 
 of the abbey (not shown) are com- 
 prised in the present house. A 
 morning-room, commimicatuig witli 
 the dais of the hall, was probably 
 one of the abbot's private apart- 
 ments, and retains its original win- 
 dow. A corridor and bed-rooms have 
 been formed from tlie dormitorj", and 
 below is a vaulted room called the 
 " Beggar's Hall." 
 
 From the hall, having coutrilnited 
 to the hoard of its ever watchful 
 dragon, the visitor should pass to the 
 raised terrace, S., traditionally called 
 the " banquctiug-room,'' and having 
 watch-turrets at the W. end. From 
 tliis point there are good views over 
 all the country, S., and most of tlic 
 locahties of the battle may be made 
 out. The sea is here visible, as is 
 Beachey Head, tlie English head- 
 land wliich first greeted the Con- 
 queror as he neared the coast 
 (see Pevensey). The beauty of the 
 site, " noble above the level of 
 abbeys," ^^Tote Walpole, is also en- 
 dent from here. Below the terrace 
 are 8 vaults, " magazines for pron- 
 sious and fuel " {Peniuuit). From 
 the E. end the refectory is visiljle, 
 but not accessible. In order to reach 
 it, the stranger must place himself in 
 the hands of the gardener, who will 
 lead him round to tlie E. front of tlic 
 building. 
 
 This lie should first notice. It 
 was the internal wall of the W. side 
 of the cloisters, and displays 9 arches 
 filled with Perp. tracery. On the N. 
 side of the cloi.sters, stretching over 
 
 what is now the flower-gaidtii, wai< 
 the Clnirrli of tlie monastery, of which 
 the fomidations of the E. end were 
 laid open in 1817. They still remain 
 uncovered, and show the apse of the 
 crj^:)t, with the bases of its massy 
 cohunns. This spot is the most 
 interesting within the abbey-walls, 
 for it is exactly that on wliich 
 Harold himself fell, and where the 
 Saxon standard was erected. Faber 
 and the monks of Blarmoutier had 
 at first selected another site for the 
 abbey, representing the want of 
 water on the actual field of battle ; 
 but "V\'^ilham rephed that, if God 
 spared his life, wine should be more 
 lilenty in that monastery than 
 water elsewhere ; and the founda- 
 tions were accordingly marked o\it 
 as originally intended, the high altai' 
 of the cli. being fixed on the 
 spot where Harold had fallen. At 
 this altar William subsequently 
 oftered the sword he had carried in 
 the battle, and the robe worn at liis 
 coronation. Here the visitor may 
 return for a moment to that old 
 world of strife and expiation, — if 
 brown liats, parasols, and wide- 
 awakes will allow him to forget the 
 liresent. 
 
 S. of the ch. is the refectory, with 
 lancet windows and strongly but- 
 tressed walls. It is E. E., and be- 
 neath it are vaulted rooms of the 
 same date, the height of wliich varies 
 owing to the slope of the ground 
 from the N. The appropriation of 
 these rooms is uncertain : the largest, 
 supported on 3 central pillars, has 
 been called, and perhaps with reason, 
 the Scriptorium, or library. Among 
 the few books found here by Leland 
 on his visitation was Prior Clement 
 ofLlanthony's " hbellus " 'On the 
 Spiritual "Wings and Feathers of the 
 Cherubim.' 
 
 Some remains at the S. angle of 
 the morning-room are probably tliose 
 of an oratory attached to the abbot's 
 apartments. 
 
 The fiimous roll of Battle Abbey,
 
 238 
 
 Tioufe 12.— Battle. — Hastings. 
 
 Sect. ir. 
 
 said to be the " roll-call " from wliicli 
 William's knights were called over 
 on Telham Hill the morning of the 
 battle, was hung up in the monastery, 
 and after the dissolution is said to 
 have been removed to Cowdray, 
 where it perished in the great fire. 
 The most accurate copy seems to be 
 Leland's ; but, although the roll may 
 be accepted as a good list of Norman 
 families, it in all probability never 
 existed until long after Normans and 
 Saxons had settled down peacefidly 
 all over England. The various ver- 
 sions differ hopelessly between them- 
 .selves. 
 
 Keturning through the gatehouse, 
 the doors of wliich are kept carefidly 
 shut, and oi:)en to no sesames but 
 silver ones, tlie parish Church, should 
 next be visited. The enclosure wall 
 of the Abbey, and of the road, has 
 some Norm, buttresses. The cli. 
 is Traus., with some Dec. windows 
 (comi). Tillington and Hurstmon- 
 ceux, also of this (Trans.) period. — 
 JSharpe). All that is now seen is 
 later than the first eh. here, which 
 was built for the use of the town, 
 temp. Hen. I., by the Abbey, to 
 which it was subject. There are 
 some fragments of stained glass, 
 among which is the effigy of Ha- 
 mond, the last alibot. In the chancel 
 is the stately tomb of Sir Anthony 
 Browne, tlie first lay lord of Battle. 
 It is of wlute marble, with some 
 traces of foi'mer splendours in gold 
 and colour. Beneath its canopy are 
 tlie efHgies of Sir Anthony and his 
 wife Alice ; the date of Sir Anthony's 
 d<'atli is left lilank — a proof that the 
 tomb was erected by himself during 
 liis lifetime. On the floor are o 
 Brasses: — John Wythines, Dean of 
 Battle, d. 1G15 ; Robert Acre, also 
 dean ; and a knight in plate-armour 
 (142o). In the nave is a half-length 
 brass of Sir W. Arnold (1435). 
 
 Tlie parish of Battle retains traces 
 of its ancient privileges. The lay 
 al)bot (now Lord 11. Vane) appoints 
 .'I decoi, who has full power within 
 
 the old jurisdiction, still free from 
 that of the bishop. 
 
 After inspecting the scenes of an- 
 cient warfare, the tourist may, if he 
 pleases, make inquiries as to the 
 resources of modern. The great 
 powder-mills of Battle are among the 
 largest in tlie kingdom. They lie 
 S.W. of the town, and the walk to 
 them through the woods is very pic- 
 tm-esque. 
 
 The scenery round Battle is so 
 pleasing, although without any very 
 striking features, that the stranger 
 will do well to explore it. A walk 
 to or from Hastings (7 m.) will be 
 found far from unpleasant ; and a 
 very interesting drive may be taken 
 by Ashhiirnham and JJurstmonceiix, 
 returning to Hastings by rail either 
 from the Pevensey or Hailsham sta- 
 tions. Tins may be well done in a 
 long summer-day. There is much 
 woodland about Battle, although the 
 oaks are not fine, owing, as Cobbett 
 has pointed out, to the shallowness of 
 the clay. The neiglibourhood is 
 famous for its wild flowers. 
 
 Through tliis scenery the railway 
 passes to 
 
 St. Leonard's, G m., and then to 
 Hastings, 1 m. 
 
 TIasthtqs (Pop., including St. Leo- 
 nard's, 17,621) {Hotels: Albion; 
 Castle — best ; Swan ; at St. Leonard's 
 the Victoria) is by far the most 
 picturesquely situated watering-place 
 on the coast of Sussex ; and in this 
 resjieet Dover alone can compete 
 with it on that of Kent. The old 
 town climbed one of the narrow val- 
 leys that here open in the sand-rock 
 toward the sea, and was overhung 
 by the castle on the western cliffs. 
 The inr/ termination marks it as one 
 of the earliest Saxon settlements (of 
 tlie Hrestingas, whose name occurs 
 in many other counties), for its 
 foundation by Hasten, the great 
 Danish sea-king, has been entirely 
 disproved. Its ships and sailors 
 (l)utsekarls) were numerous and im- 
 portant under the Confessor, when
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 12. — Hastings. 
 
 239 
 
 the town became a member of the 
 Cinque Ports. Tlie arrival of the 
 Conqueror is the first great event in 
 iti liistor}^ (see post). Hastings hing 
 continued in great repute for its ship- 
 building, for which the neighbourhood 
 of the great Sussex forests atfordcd 
 ample material. As a port, however, 
 it had not the early iuqioitaiice nor 
 the wealth of Rye or Winelielsea, and 
 consequently escaped many of the 
 French burnings to wliich tliey were 
 .subjected. Like other towns on this 
 coast, it gradually declined, and had 
 become a mere fisliing village when, 
 toward the end of the last century, 
 Dr. Baillie began to recommend his 
 patients to resort to Hastings. From 
 tliat time it has steadily increased ; 
 and St. Leonard's, tlien a small vil- 
 lage more than a mile distant, is now 
 joined to it by a succession of ter- 
 races. As a watering-place, Hastings 
 holds a middle station between the 
 universal mixture of Brighton and 
 the resorts of Mrs. Jarley's " general 
 jiublic " at Margate and Ramsgate. 
 
 The climate of Hastings varies 
 greatly, owing to the situation of the 
 town. The old town, and all the 
 lower range of houses reacliing as 
 far as Pelham Place, are thoroughly 
 sheltered from the N. and I*]., and are 
 " well suited to the most delicate 
 pulmonary invalids during the win- 
 ter and spring." {Maclntess.) The 
 higher parts of the town enjoy a 
 climate far more bracing, but still 
 milder than tbat of the East Kent 
 watering places. St. Leonard's is in 
 some respects better situated than 
 either, since it is quite as warm as 
 the lower part of Hastings, witliout 
 being overhung by the clitf. 
 
 Very ample details for Hastings 
 and its neighbourhood will be found 
 in a volunre entitled ' JI((s(iiiij.<, Fast 
 and Present ' (Hastings, Diplock), to 
 which we have been much indebted. 
 
 The Castle is the first point of in- 
 terest in Hastings. ' Its area, now 
 liiid out as a pleasure-ground, covei-s 
 tlie extreme point of the AV. cUti". 
 
 A small payment is required from 
 visitors. The plan seems to have 
 been imusually irregular, owing to 
 the cliff, which descends sharply on 
 the S. side, and rendered all fortifi- 
 cation there mineccssary. The main 
 entrance was on the N. side, where 
 the groove for the portcullis, and the 
 hooks for the gate-hinges, still re- 
 main. On the E. side are fragments 
 of 3 semicircular towers. W., a cir- 
 cular and square tower both remain, 
 still of considerable height. " In the 
 circular tower, and in other parts of 
 the walls, are com-ses of herring-bone 
 work." The most interesting re- 
 mains, however, are those of the 
 Castle Chapel, which are Tr.-Norni. 
 Tlie stone coffins placed here were 
 found during excavations made in 
 1824. In this, or an earlier chapel 
 within the castle, Anselm conse- 
 crated Robert Blovet Bp. of Lincoln, 
 while William Rufns was detained 
 here by contrary M'inds. Tlie chapel 
 itself was independent of the castle, 
 and was in the hands of a dean and 
 secular canons ; a similar establish- 
 ment, perhaps, to that which once ex- 
 isted in the castle of Dover. Thomas 
 a Becket was dean of this chapel, 
 and WUliam of Wyckham held one of 
 its canonries. 
 
 Little is known of the history of 
 tlie castle. Hastings was bestowed 
 by the Conqueror on the Count of 
 Eu, who may have erected the first 
 fortress here, and in the hands of 
 wliose descendants it remained rmtil 
 tlie middle of the 13th cent., after 
 which the most remarkable among 
 the many Lords of the Honour were 
 the dukes of Biittany, who, however, 
 do not seem to have been admitted 
 as castellans, the fortress being re- 
 tained in the hands of the Crown. 
 It is now the property of the Pelliam 
 family. 
 
 On the East Cliffs, between wliich 
 and the castle lies the old town of 
 Hastings, are traces of a great em- 
 l)ankment, which has been con- 
 sidered to mark the site of the Con-
 
 240 
 
 Iioute 12. — Hastlinjs. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 qucror's camp Ijcfore Ids mareli npoii 
 Battle,— 
 
 " the bcifjlits 
 ^Vllel■e till' Norman encamped him of iilil, 
 
 With his bowmen and knights, 
 And his banner all burnished with gold." 
 
 Sir. Lower suggests, however, witli 
 far more probability, that the eanip, 
 ill wliich tlie Normans spent the night 
 in praj^er (as they tell lis themselves, 
 by waj" of a favouralile eoutrast with 
 the shouts and " drinkheils " of the 
 Saxons at Battle), was on low ground, 
 near the site of the present railway 
 station, and that the East Hill em- 
 bankment was an outpost for ob- 
 sei-vation. 
 
 An exeellent \'iew of the old town 
 is gained from this chfl:'. In very elear 
 weather the opposite coast of Pieardy 
 is visible from liere, including the 
 harbour of St. A'alery, from whence 
 the Conqueror's expedition set sail. 
 In the summer of 1797, owing to a 
 remarkable atmospheric refraction, 
 the whole line of coast from Calais 
 to Diej)pe became distinctly visible, 
 not only from tlie clilf, but from the 
 shore below, and appeared as near 
 as if seen from a vessel a short dis- 
 tance off tlie coast. {Fldl. Trans., 
 vol. 88.) 
 
 Tlie Chuirhes of Hastings are quite 
 Tiuinteresting. AJI Sainfs. stands pic- ' 
 turesquelyutthehead ofthe old town, 
 and is mainly Perp. In its register 
 for 1619 ajuiears the baptism of 
 Titus Gates, the infamous, who was 
 born here, and whose fatlier was 
 subsequently rector of All Saints. 
 St. Clement's, in the High Street, is 
 also Perp. Tlie 2 balls tixed to the 
 tower are memorials of the combined 
 French and Dutch fleets which fired 
 oil the town in 1720. There are 
 here two Brasses : Thos. Weekes, 
 died 1.5G3, and John Biirlcv, IGOl. 
 The new Church of St. Marij Mkj- 
 dalene was consecrated in 1852, and is 
 good. PerhajJS the original of Lady 
 Whittlesea's Chapel, in which the 
 Rev. Charles Hoiieyman displayed 
 himself, may be found in that called 
 
 " St. Mary in the Castle," and situated 
 in the centre of Pelliam Crescent. 
 Wine-vaults run back under it, and 
 are entered from the street below. 
 At the Priory Farm (1. of the road 
 leading to the station) is a fragment 
 of wall marking the site of a house of 
 Augustinian canons. 
 
 There are a few wooden houses 
 in the old town worth notice. A 
 strong wall, defending the seaward 
 entrance to the town, ran from the 
 Castle Hill to the E. cliff; some por- 
 tions of it still exist in Bom-ne Street 
 and George Street. 
 
 Hastings can boast of no dis- 
 tinguished sous, but has received 
 many remarkable visitors. Here Lord 
 Byron wrote, Aug. 1814, "I have 
 been swimming and eating turbot, 
 and smuggling neat lirandies and silk 
 handkerchiefs, and hsteniug to my 
 friend Hodgson's raptures about a 
 pretty wife elect of his, and walking 
 on cliffs, and tumbling down hills, 
 and making the most of the dolce 
 far nieiife for the last fortnight." 
 Campbell lived for 5 years at St. 
 Leonard's, and liis 'Address to the 
 Sea ' was Avritten here. Charles 
 Lamb, htiving lieen " "dull at Worth- 
 ing one summer, tluller at Brighton 
 another, and dullest at Eastbourne 
 a tlurd," " did dreary penance " 
 during another at Hastings. "It 
 is ' a place of fugitive resort, an 
 heterogeneous assemblage of sea- 
 mews and stockbrokers, Amphitrites 
 of the town, and misses that coquet 
 with the ocean. If it were what 
 it WTis in its primitive shape it 
 were something. I coidd abide to 
 dwell with Meseheck ; to assort with 
 fisher swains and smugglers. I like 
 a smuggler. He is the only honest 
 tliief." (Essays of Ella). Smugglers 
 are now rare at Hastings as else- 
 where. Caves said to have been 
 used by them exist on the W. or 
 Castle Hill. They are known as St. 
 Clement's Caves, and are occasion- 
 ally lighted up i\n- the inspectio-i of 
 curious visitors.
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Roati 12. — Hastings — Xcighboiu-hooJ. 
 
 241 
 
 St. Leonard's, the Bclgravia of 
 Hastings, lias a long row of good 
 houses (the Marina) adjoining the 
 shore ; with subscription gardens and 
 archery ground stretching up tlic 
 hiU behind them. The Victoria 
 hotel was occupied during the ■winter 
 of 1848 by tlie exdiing LomsPhiUppe. 
 On its site formerly existed a rtjck 
 called the "Concpieror'sdiniug-table," 
 at which William is said to have 
 dined on the day of his lamling. This 
 dinner finds a place in the Bayeux 
 Tapestry, but with better apphances 
 than seaside rocks. The true site 
 was probably nearer Pevcnsey. 
 
 The neighbour] lood of Hastings is 
 rich in beautiful walks ; and diives 
 and railway excursions may be made 
 to embrace a great part of East 
 Su.ssex. Wallis to be reconuneuded 
 are, — over the E. hill to Ecclesbounie 
 (1 m.), where a narrow valley opens 
 on the sea. The return, when the tide 
 is well out, may be by the beach. To 
 Fairlighf Place and the Lover's Seat, 
 one of the great Uous of Hastings. ' 
 Fairlight Place, l^ m., is best reached 
 Ity the main road, whence some fields 
 open toward the glen that descends 
 to the sea. This is very picturesque, 
 with thickly wooded sides and a 
 tapestry of wild flowers. At the head 
 of the glen is the drippincj irell, over- 
 hung by an enormous beech-tree, and 
 bright with the stars of the golden 
 .saxifrage. The Lovers' Seat, is a ledge 
 of rock, a little way do^vu the clilf, 
 8. of the glen. It owes its name to 
 the stolen interviews of the captain 
 of a revenue cutter with a Kentish 
 heiress, ending, as may lie recorded 
 for the benetit of future occupiers of 
 the seat, in a happy marriage. The 
 return to Hastings may be along the 
 clitf, making the walk altogether 
 al)out 5 m. — Fairlight Oiiirrk (2 m. 
 from Hastings) was erected in 1845, 
 when the old ch. was taken down. 
 Behind it stretches up FairJicjht 
 Down, 599 ft., the liighest ground in 
 this part of Sussex. The sea-view 
 extends from the S. Foreland to 
 
 Beachy Head ; and inland is very 
 rich and beautifid. The high ridge, 
 forming a continuation of the downs, 
 is that along which the Conqueror's 
 army marched to Telham Hill, visible 
 over Battle.— OZ J i?o«v {'1 m.) is a 
 so-called waterfall, wliich now, how- 
 ever, roars "gently an 'twere any 
 sucking dove." "Probably no one 
 ever visited Old Roar ^vithout being 
 told that this was not the season 
 for the water, and that it was never 
 known to be so dry as at present." 
 {Lost Brooch.) The situation, how- 
 ever, is pictiu'csque, and the walk to 
 it very pleasant. Part of Ore Place, 
 close by, is said to have been built 
 by John of Gaimt. Ore Cluu'ch is 
 luiinteresting. 
 
 Within drivifs of Hastings art — C'roiv- 
 liurst Church, 5m. It stands pleasanlly 
 in a valley, surrounded by trees. The 
 nave was rebuilt 1794. In the tower 
 window are considerable remains of 
 stained glass. Crowhurst was lontr 
 held by the Pelhams ; and in the 
 tower door-case, and the tracery of 
 the windows above, occuis the well- 
 known Pelliam Buckle, the achieve- 
 ment adopted in memory of the 
 takingof theFrencliKing at Poictiers, 
 an exploit in which Sir John Pelliam 
 assisted. A wooden buckle, probably 
 a liart of the old screen, is also nailed 
 to the front of the gallery. In the 
 churchyard is a noble yew of un- 
 known antiquity, 27 ft. in circum- 
 ference at 4 ft. from the ground. S. of 
 the ch. are the remains of an ancient 
 manor-house of late E. E. character. 
 It was a small parallelogram with a 
 porch ; and contained only 3 rooms, 
 a vaulted ground floor, a large room 
 above, and one over the porch, perhaps 
 an orator}^ The E. window of the 
 large room has very good mouldings. 
 (Comp. the earlier Norm, house at 
 Ch. Ch., Hants, the house at West 
 I Tarring in this coimtj% and Little 
 j Wenluim Hall, Suffolk, hke this of 
 ; the 13th cent.) It seems uncertain 
 whether the present remains con- 
 _ stituted the whole house, or whether
 
 242 
 
 Route 12. — Crowhumf. — Wentfidd. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 there was a hall on the S. side, in 
 wliich case the existing house would 
 be only the solar, or private chamber. 
 (Hudson Turner.) The biiilder of 
 Crowhiu-st is thought to have been 
 Walter de Scotuey, owner of the 
 manor temp. Hen. III. He was chief 
 steward of De Clare, Earl of Glou- 
 cester, and was executed in 1259, on 
 the charge of having poisoned the 
 Earl and his brother. {Suss. Arch. 
 Coll.) 
 
 Crowliurst Place (T. Papillon, Esq.) 
 was long the residence of the Pel- 
 hams. 
 
 A longer drive will be to Winchel- 
 sea, by" Guestling and Icklesham. 
 Guestlincj C]iurcli\\h m.) is mainly 
 Trans. -Norm, and interesting. In 
 the vestry is a tine old "Flanders 
 Chest" very richly pannelled. Broom- 
 ham Park, adjoining, is an ancient 
 seat of the Ashburnhams. At Mux- 
 field in tliis parish is an old timbered 
 house worth notice. Maxfield is the 
 birthplace of Greg. Martin, translator 
 of the Rlieims version of the Bible. 
 — For Iclilesham and Winchelsea, 
 see Rte. 1.3. 
 
 From Pelt, a short distance S. of 
 Guestling, a road leads over Chick 
 Hill, with a wide view, to Cliff End, 
 the point at which the sandstone of 
 Hastings suddenly sinks into tlie 
 level, leaving an open, marshy coast 
 luitil the chalk reappears at Folk- 
 stone. The soUtude of Clitf End is 
 striking ; and the scene, wild and 
 picturesque, will repay a visit. 
 
 The Hastings Sand, of which the 
 cliffs consist, is the formation which 
 in various strata extends over the 
 valley of the Weald, between the N. 
 and S. chalk ranges. At Hastings 
 the rock is white and friable, and re- 
 sembles the blocks on the common 
 at Tunbridge Wells. Its beds abound 
 in remains of fishes ; and fragments 
 of th(! Iguanodon have occasionally 
 been found. This white sand rock 
 is one of the lower beds of the forma- 
 tion, r(>sting immediately oti the 
 Tilgate clay, in which Dr. ManteU 
 
 first discovered some of the greater 
 saurians. 
 
 A still longer cxciu'sion may bo 
 made to Podiam Castle (13 in.), 
 a distance which will be slightly in- 
 creased if, as may easily be done, 
 Brede and Northiam are taken in the 
 way. The return may be by Sedles- 
 couibe. Very ample notices of Bredo 
 and Noithiam will be found in 
 ' Ilasthigs Past and Present,' of wliich 
 only a small portion can be inserted 
 here. 
 
 The Church of Westfield (Gm.) is 
 E. E., but of no great interest. That 
 of Brede (1 m.j is more important. 
 The chantry S. of the chancel is 
 attaclied to Brede Place ; and was 
 enlarged by Sir GoddardOxenbridge 
 toward the beginning of the 16th 
 century. French workmen are said 
 to have been employed by him ; of 
 which the flaml>oyant traceries, the 
 foliage over the entrance door and in 
 the capitals of the arch-piers, Ivere 
 the result. All these exhibit pecu-^ 
 liarities unlike the English work of 
 the time. The monument of Sir 
 Go.ldard Oxenbridge, d. 1537, dis- 
 plays liis effigy in armour, and is in 
 Caen stone, like the additions to the 
 chantry. The local folklore respect- 
 ing Sir Goddard is remarkable. He 
 was a cannibal giant, especially fond 
 of young chikken ; invulnerable by 
 metal, and only to be killed by a 
 wooden saw, with which instrument 
 some of his neighbours, having made 
 him dnmk, succeeded in sawing him 
 in half. 
 
 Brede Place, now a farm-house, 
 
 on the side of a hill, at the foot 
 
 of which a trout-stream "huddles" 
 
 along, lies 1 m. E. of the ch. It 
 
 ] dates mainly from the end of the 
 
 14th cent., but has some additions 
 
 made by Sir Goddard Oxenbridge 
 
 early in the IGth. The first recorded 
 
 possessors of Brede were the Atte- 
 
 fords, in whose hands it continued 
 
 until early in the reign of Henry 
 
 1 IV., when it passed to the Oxen- 
 
 I bridges. The Aitejord, or earlier
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 12. — Bridaoall. — Northiam. 
 
 243 
 
 portion of the house, is of sandstone, 
 and the rest brick. Tlie great hall, 
 and the apartment S. of it, deserve 
 careful notice ; beyond was the 
 chapel, two stories in height, but 
 entered through an ante-chapel, of 
 one only. Tlie Caen stone work and 
 the window traceries tliroughout 
 .should be compared with those in 
 the Oxenbridge chantry. The view 
 from the top of the house is tine. 
 Brede Place was long a favourite 
 resoii of smugglers, who managed to 
 produce strange noises in the house 
 and al)Out it, thus scaring away the 
 peasantry. K bridge crossing the 
 .stream near the house is still called 
 Groaning Bridge. 
 
 In GilhjWood, on the tm-npike road 
 to Tije, near the point at which it is 
 crossed in proceeding to Northiam, is 
 a deep gill (guenle) or ravine, like 
 that of Old Eoar, very picturesque 
 and worth visiting. On the same 
 road, 1 m. toward Udimore, is Great 
 Sowdens Wood, I., in which is a 
 large heroniy ; 400 nests have been 
 counted here. Uditnore, 1 m., was so 
 named, says tradition, because, while 
 the ch. was building on a ditierent 
 site, a spirit nightly removed the 
 stones, crying "O'er the mere ! 0"er 
 the mere ;" of which Udimore is a 
 corruption. 
 
 In proceeding to Northiam, 5 m., 
 remark, rt. (1 m. from Northiam), 
 the Well-House, an old timbered 
 Iniilding, dating from the middle of 
 the lUth cent. ; a good specimen of a 
 yeoman s residence. It has a large 
 hall, now used as a store-room, with 
 a central fireplace. Beyond is 
 Brickwall Park, and opposite, 1., an 
 old farm-house, said to have been 
 the birthplace of Abp. Frewen in 
 1588. Briclcn-all (T. Frewen, Esq.) is 
 only to be seen when the family are 
 absent. It was purchased in IStiG by 
 Stephen Frewen, alderman of Lon- 
 don, from a family named White who 
 had long possessed it. Stephen 
 Frewen had been born at Northiam, 
 where his father was rector ; mani- 
 
 festing strong puritanical tendencies 
 in the names of his other children —   
 Thankful and Aceeijted, of wliom 
 the first became Secretary to the 
 Lord-Keeper Coventry, and the 
 second Abp. of York. Accepted 
 was an eager Royalist, and conse- 
 quenlly denoiuiced by Cromwell, 
 who set 1000/. on his" head. On 
 the restoration he was appointed to 
 the archbishopric. Brickwall House 
 is Elizabethan, with some additions 
 and decorations temp. Clias. II. 
 The N. front remains unaltered ; the 
 rest is of the second period. The 
 chimneys are richly ornamented. 
 The house contains some interesting 
 portraits — Accepted Frewen the arch- 
 l)ishop, and his brother Stephen, by 
 Gerard, Loest ; their father, tlie rector 
 of Northiam (3/«r/.; Gerrard); Lord 
 Keeper Coventry and his second wife 
 (Jansen\ i")resents to his secretary, 
 Tliankful Frewen ; Lady Guldeforde 
 (Holbein). On the staircase are 
 Queen Elizabeth's green silk shoes, 
 which she took oft' under the oak on 
 the village green (see j^o^O : Abp. 
 Frewen's wheel barometer; and a 
 curious finger-organ. The gardens 
 are pleasantly old fiishioned. Front- 
 ing the house is a large oak, IS ft. in 
 circumference, the single survivor of 
 an avenue the width of the house, 
 jjlanted from acorns oft' Queen Eliza- 
 beth's oak, immediately after her 
 visit in 1573. 
 
 Northiam Clnirch was much en- 
 larged in 1835. 'J'he Tower is the 
 most interesting portion — Norm. — 
 and " deserving of attentive exami- 
 nation, as it presents some features 
 which maij i.idicate very consider- 
 able antiquity" {Hiafseij). The coign 
 stones should be remarked. Tiiero 
 are two Brasses: Nich. Tuftoii, 1538, 
 and Eobert Benford, rector, 1518. 
 The Mausoleum belongs to tlie 
 Frewen family, and was erected in 
 1846. The Church House dates 
 apparently from the time of Henry 
 
 vni. 
 
 Dixtcr in this parish is an old
 
 •J-i4 
 
 Route 12. — Bodiarn Castle. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 tiinlicrc'cl liouso, which would pro- 
 hably repay examination. Tufton 
 I'lare, a largo old farm-house, was 
 the cradle of the Tuftons, afterwards 
 Earls of Thanet. 
 
 Adjoining the churchyard, on the 
 village green, is the fragment of 
 Queen Elizabeth's Oak, 2i ft. in cir- 
 cumference. Under it, Aug. 11, 
 1.573, the great Queen dined in her 
 way from Hempstead to Kye. Here 
 she changed her shoes, those she 
 took oft' being carefully preserved as 
 relics. Her INIajesty's dinner was sup- 
 plied by Mr. George Bishopp, whose 
 very ancient timbered house stands 
 opposite the oak, and should be 
 noticed. 
 
 Bodtam Castle, about 2 m., lies 
 on the opposite bank of the Eother. 
 The manor became the projierty of 
 Sir Edward Dalyngrudge, temp. 
 Edw. III., l)y his marriage with the 
 heiress of the Wardenx. Sir Edward 
 was jjreseut at Crecy and Poietiers, 
 and afterwards became a success- 
 ful plunderer throughout northern 
 France. He obtained letters patent 
 for building a castle here in 138(3 
 flttli Rich. II.), from which period 
 the building dates. The male line 
 of Dalyngrudge soon became extinct, 
 and Bodiam passed to the Lewknor 
 family, in whose liands it remained 
 until the civil war, when Sir Lewis 
 Lewknor became a hot royalist, and 
 his castles, Bodiam and Amberley, 
 were dismantled by Waller's troops. 
 The ruins have since passed through 
 many hands ; and are now the pro- 
 j)ertv of A. E. Fuller, Esq., of Rose 
 Hill! 
 
 The castle is surrounded with a 
 deep moat filled with water. It is 
 nearly square, with a round tower at 
 each angle ; and square towers in the 
 centre of each side except the N., 
 where is the great gateway. This is 
 approached by a causeway, once de- 
 fended by a liarbacan tower and 
 drawbiidge. Tlie escutcheons over 
 tbe main entrance are those of Bo- 
 <liam (the Norman possessor who 
 
 held from the Coinit of Eu), Dalpi- 
 grndge, and "VVardeux. The arrange- 
 ments for defence shoidd especially 
 be noticed. Tlie outer portcullis is 
 still visible, and witliin the vaidted 
 passage are traces of two more, in- 
 tended to divide the space mto two 
 rooms. Instead of bosses, the ceilings 
 have funnel - shaped perforations, 
 serving as macliicmdis, through 
 winch melted lead might be poured 
 down on the assailants. 
 
 Witliin the area are the remains of 
 liaU, chapel, kitchen, and other 
 apartments ; these are carried round 
 the main walls, leaving an open court 
 in the centre. The kitchen is marked 
 1iy its 2 large fireplaces and its oven, 
 all of which are constructed of tUes. 
 From the S.E. corner tower a stair- 
 case led to an upper series of rooms, 
 lighted from the court ; i^erhaps the 
 ladies' apartments. On the Vj. side 
 was the chapel. The greater portion 
 of these inner buildings are probably 
 of later date than the castle walls. 
 Hurstmonceux, although consider- 
 ately later, may be compared through- 
 out. 
 
 Bodiam Clnirch, 1^ m., is Dec. 
 and E. E. The original roof extend.s 
 over lioth nave and aisles. 
 
 The return to Hastings, 12 m., 
 should be through Sedlescovih, where 
 is an E. E. ch. with some Perp. ad- 
 ditions. The font cover (Per}i.) 
 deserves notice. In this parish 
 Roman coins have been foimd in an 
 ancient cinder-field, one among many 
 other proofs that the Sussex ironstone 
 was not unworked by the " terraruin 
 Domini."
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 13. — Hastings to Ashford. 
 
 241 
 
 
 ROUTE 13. 
 
 HASTINGS TO ASHFORD. 
 
 {South-E astern Eailway, Ashford and 
 Hastings Brunch.) 
 
 After losing sight of the ragged 
 towers of Hastings Castle there is 
 little rt. 01- 1. to interest the tourist, 
 initU he reaches 
 
 9 ni. Whtclielsea, one of the most 
 singular " triumijlis of time" to be 
 found throughout England. Old 
 Winchelsea having been destroyed 
 by encroachments of the sea, the new 
 town was foiuided on liighcr ground 
 by Edward I. New Winchelsea was 
 abandoned in its tiuu ; and is now a 
 village, with the remauis of ancient 
 grandem' scattered about it. It lies 
 about a mile from the station. The 
 visitor should be told that no con- 
 veyance meets the trains, nor is it 
 possilDle to procm-e one in the ueigh- 
 bourliood. 
 
 The site of Old Winchelsea (now 
 submerged) was about 3 m. S.E. of 
 the new town. It was a low, flat 
 island (Winchel's-ea) only connected 
 with the land on the W. side. Here 
 the Conqueror lauded on his return 
 from Normandy to commence the 
 siege of Exeter ; and here landed 
 2 of the knights on their way to the 
 murder of Becket. It was, like its 
 successor, one of the "more noble 
 members" of the Cinque Ports ; but 
 had been granted by tlie Confessor 
 to the Norman Abbey of Fecamp, 
 
 \_Kent & Sussex.'] 
 
 with wliich monastery Henry III. 
 exchanged it for the manor of Chelten- 
 ham. The flrst recorded inmidation 
 took place in 1236 ; others succeeded 
 m 1250, when " 300 houses and some 
 chm-ches were drowned." Winchel- 
 sea had held (hke the other Cinque 
 Ports) to the party of Simon de 
 Montfort ; and made some resist- 
 ance to the royal authority even 
 after Simon's death at Evesliam. It 
 >vas taken, however, by Prince 
 Edward, and the mass of the iidia- 
 bitants were massacred. After this 
 desolation, and a linal inundation 
 wliich efiectually drowned tlie town 
 on the eve of St. Agatha, 1287, the 
 site was removed by Edward I. to 
 the hill above. In tlus old town was 
 born liobert de Winchelsea, after- 
 wards Abp. of Canterbury, who, after 
 opposing Edward I. in the matter of 
 Church revenues, solemnized his mar- 
 riage with the Prmcess Margaret of 
 France. (See Canterbury.) 
 
 The fitness of the site for the new 
 town is at once seen on chmbing the 
 wooded hill of Higham on which it 
 stands, rising sharply out of the 
 marshes, and looking across them to 
 its sister acropolis at Eye. On the 
 top of the hill, one of the ancient 
 gates — now leading to notliing — is 
 passed ; this is " PiiJe-weU " or " the 
 land" gate, and on it is a sliield mth 
 the word "Helde," the name, it is 
 supposed, of the Mayor of Whichelsea 
 at the time of its construction. Some 
 distance beyond, appears the ch., 
 with the relics of tlie old town linger- 
 ing about it. 
 
 At the time New Winchelsea was 
 built, tlie rock on which it stands 
 was washed by the tides E. and N., 
 and the harbour was one of first rate 
 im])ortance, the Portsmouth and 
 Spithead of its day. The town, like 
 others foiuided hi Gascony and else- 
 where by Edward I., was built on a 
 regular plan, and subdivided into 39 
 squares or quarters, an arrangement 
 resembling that of a Eoman town, 
 
 N
 
 2-L6 
 
 Route i; 
 
   Winchelsea. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 and wliich was also found by the 
 Spaniards existing in Mexico. The 
 town was protected by the natural 
 form of the ground except on the W. 
 side, where is a deep trench or moat ; 
 and had 3 gates. It traded largely 
 in wines and other " commodities," 
 besides being the harbour from wliielr 
 English troops constantly embarked 
 for the French wars. It continued 
 prosperous, notwithstanding constant 
 assaiUts from enemies by sea, until 
 the middle of the 15th cent, when 
 the sea rapidly retired ; and on Eliza- 
 beth's visit in 1573, although the 
 town itself was still full of stately 
 buildings, and the nuxgistrates ma- 
 naged to make so brave a show that 
 lier Majesty was pleased to call it a 
 "little London," there were not more 
 tlian (jU households remaining. Win- 
 chelsea never recovered ; the greater 
 part of the town disai^peared alto- 
 gether ; and the grey old rehcs that 
 still survive have a strangely spectral 
 cliaracter, Uke owls seen by dayhght. 
 The assaults from foreign enemies 
 no doubt greatly injured the town. 
 8000 French landed liere in 1359 
 during the absence of Edward III. 
 in France ; set fire to the town, and 
 killed many of the inhalsitants, who 
 were assemljled in the ch. at mass. 
 The king, greatly incensed, at once 
 turned his arms against Paris ; but 
 in the mean time Winchelsea was 
 again taken and sacked by the 
 French navy, luuler the Comte de St. 
 Pol. In 1377 they again ajipeared 
 off the coast ; took Kye, and would 
 have taken Winchelsea, had it not 
 been bravely defended by the Abbot 
 of Battle. " The French let fly 
 tlieir great guns," says old Fuller, 
 " and I take it to be the first and 
 last time they were ever planted by 
 a foreign enemy on the English con- 
 tinent ; and these roared so loud that 
 they lost their voice, and have been 
 (blessed be God) silent ever since." 
 But Winelielsea was again taken by 
 John de Viemie in 1380, and it is 
 
 supposed that the nave of the re- 
 maining ch. was burnt on this occa- 
 sion. Tlie town was attacked and 
 fired for the last time by the French 
 in the reign of Henry VI. about 1449. 
 August 29, 1350, a battle took 
 place ofl' Winchelsea between the 
 Spanish fleet returning from Flan- 
 ders, and that of Edward III., who was 
 present in person. The Black Prince 
 and John of Gaunt were also in the 
 English fleet, the latter too young 
 to bear arms ; but the king, says 
 Froissart, " had him on board because 
 he much loved lum." After Edward 
 had cruised for 3 days between Dover 
 and Calais, the Sf)aniards came in 
 siglit. They lost 14 ships in the 
 action, which was " well and hardly 
 fouglit." The rest fled. The khig 
 and his nobles disembarked at Win- 
 chelsea in the evening, and rode to 
 the mansion (jjrobably Sir WiUiam 
 de Echiugliam's at Udimore) where 
 Queen Philippa waited him — 
 " miglitily rejoiced to see her lord 
 and children." Her attendants had 
 watched the whole of the battle from 
 the coast. 
 
 The first point of interest in Win- 
 elielsea is the CJiurcli, of St. Thomas 
 (tlie arehbisliop, and not the apostle), 
 of which the chancel with its side 
 aisles only remains, the nave having 
 been destroyed, probal^ly by John do 
 Vienne in 1380. Tlie wliole is early 
 Dec. (circ. 1300), and the most im- 
 portant biulding of this period m 
 Sussex. The chancel, with its sediha, 
 was restored in 1850. The windows, 
 connected by an inner arcade with 
 blind arches, are filled with a tracery 
 " of foreign rather than English cha- 
 racter" (Cooper), and resemble those 
 of Chartham in Kent. The leafage 
 throughout the ch., executed during 
 the very best period of " natm-ahsm," 
 deserves the most careful attention, 
 and the corbel heads at the spring of 
 the arches are not less curious. The 
 modern flooring tiles were copied 
 from a few of the original ones which
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 13. — Winchehea. 
 
 247 
 
 still remain in the chancel. Through- 
 out the ch. Caen stone and Sussex 
 marble were used in judicious con- 
 trast. 
 
 In the S. aisle was the Alard 
 chantry, originally the chajiel of St. 
 Nicholas. Here are the 2 Alard 
 tombs, ranking " among the noisiest 
 conceptions of this period in the 
 kingdom." The earliest is that of 
 Gervase Alard, Admiral of the Cinque 
 Ports in 1303 and 1306. He was 
 living at the time the ch. was built, 
 and probably one of the benefactors 
 to it. (Cooper.) His efSgy is cross- 
 legged, and the hands clasp a small 
 heart. Remark the manner in which 
 the mad is thrown back from them, 
 an arrangement worthy of Donatello. 
 The lion at liis feet, half risuig yet 
 still trodden down, turns liis head 
 growling. In the canoi^y above is 
 a grotesque head with oak-sprays 
 springhig from the mouth, admirably 
 designed. At the angles of the 
 canopy are the heads of (apparently) 
 Edward I. and Queen Eleanor. 
 
 The second tomb is probably 
 that of Steplien Alard, grandson of 
 Gervase, and Admiral of the Cmque 
 Ports in 1324. It is still very 
 fine, but not equal to the carher 
 one, wliich, however, it greatly re- 
 sembles. Remark the head -with 
 bats'-ears, above, and the oak leafage 
 springing fi-om them. The canopies 
 of both these tombs deserve carefid 
 study. It is just possible that they 
 may be somewhat later than the 
 effigies themselves. Their position, 
 under the windows, wliich are partly 
 blocked by them, is miusual. 
 
 At the up2:ier end of the aisle are 
 the sedilia and piscmaj of the 
 chantiy. 
 
 In the N. aisle are 3 monuments ; 
 a kniglit in mail armoiu-, a lady, and 
 a young man in a long robe. These 
 are all tliouglit to have been mem- 
 bers of the Alard tVtmily. The tombs 
 are all canopied ; and a comparison 
 of the designs with those in the S. 
 
 aisle will show that they are pro- 
 bably by the same artist. On the 
 chancel floor is the brass of an 
 ecclesiastic. 
 
 The porch without the ch. is a 
 later addition. Over it are the arms 
 of Winchelsea. The triple gable of 
 the chanci 1, ivy covered, grovips sin- 
 gularly with the ruined transept ad- 
 jouiing. These fragments are of the 
 same date as the chancel. 
 
 Under a large tree at the side of 
 this ch. Wesley preached, on his visit 
 to " that poor skeleton of ancient 
 Winchelsea," in 1790. 
 
 There were 2 other churches in 
 Wmchelsea ; St. Giles's, and a second 
 of wliich no fragment remains. 
 
 The Friars (E. Stileman, Esq.), 
 not far from the ch., shoidd next be 
 visited. The public are only ad- 
 mitted on Mondays. The ancient 
 house of the Franciscans here was 
 pulled down about 1819, and the 
 present building erected ; but a part 
 of the ruined cha2:)el of the Virgin 
 stiU remains in the groiuids. This is 
 the choir, termuiating in an apse, and 
 entered l>y the original arch, which is 
 veiy striking. It is somewhat, though 
 perhaps not much, later than St. 
 Thomas's Church ; and is very pic- 
 turesquely situated. Towards the end 
 of the last century the Friars was the 
 residence 'of 2 remarkable liighwiiy- 
 meu, George and Joseph Weston. 
 They lived here under assumed 
 names and, wliilst rol)bing the country 
 in all diiections, enjoyed the Inghest 
 reputation at Winchelsea, one of 
 tliem being aiipointed churchwarden. 
 They were apprehended here, after 
 robbing the Bristol mail, and one of 
 them was subsequently executed. 
 
 Of the house of the Dominicans 
 here no fragment remains. The 
 court-house and gaol, N. of the 
 churchyard, are ancient rehcs, but of 
 no great interest. Besides the Pipe- 
 well gate already noticed, the New 
 Gate, W., and the Strand Gate, half 
 way up the hiU looking toward Eve,
 
 248 
 
 PiOute 13. — Lye. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 also remain. Few remains are more 
 strildng than these stately gates in 
 the midst of rough lanes and green 
 tields. At the Strand Gate Ed- 
 ward I. nearly lost his life soon 
 after the town was built. At this 
 point it was fortified by bulwarks 
 of earthwork, along which the king 
 was riding, and looking at his fleet 
 below, when his horse, frightened by 
 a windmill, leapt clear over the bid- 
 wark. All within gave up the king 
 for dead ; but the horse, after slip- 
 ping a considerable distance, did not 
 fall ; and Edward rode safely back 
 through the gate. 
 
 Icldesham Church (about 1 m. 
 W. of Winchelsea) is good Norm, 
 and deserves a visit. The nave 
 pillars have enriched capitals, and 
 the S. aisle 3 early circidar-headed 
 windows. The E. window is early 
 Dec. This ch., dedicated to St. 
 Nicholas, has been carefully re- 
 stored." Beyond it, on White Hart 
 Hill, is a striking view looking over 
 Eye toward Dover. 
 
 The walk or drive from Winchelsea 
 to Rye, about 5 m., is not to be com- 
 mended on the score of beauty, since 
 the road passes through the salt 
 marshes. On the shore, about half 
 way (but Ij'ing off the road), are the 
 remains of Ckimher Castle, one of 
 tliose small fortresses Hke Deal, 
 Walmer, and Sandown, built by 
 Henry VIII. for the defence of the 
 coast. Like its Kentish brothers, it 
 has a central tower, surrounded by 
 smaller ones, which are comiected l)y 
 curtains. It is perhaps more com- 
 pletely in its original condition than 
 either of the others. It was dis- 
 mantled in 1642. The sea, which 
 once washed its walls, has now re- 
 tired to some distance. 
 
 Beyond Camber Castle, on this road, 
 the tourist wiU gain the best \aew of 
 
 13 m. from Hastings by rail, 
 Bije (Pop. SOOO— Inns: Cinrpie Port 
 Arms ; George ; Red Lion), itself a 
 contemporary of Old Winchelsea ; 
 
 and therefore far more ancient than 
 the new town, opposite which it 
 stretches along on its irregular rock, 
 from the clefts and hollows of which 
 hang long tufts of sea-grass ; whilst 
 above, the varied lines of its roofs 
 and house-fronts are broken by the 
 square tower of the ch., and by that 
 of William de Ypres rising beyond it. 
 
 The town, on entering, is found 
 to be as old-fashioned as the most 
 thorough-paced antiquary can desire ; 
 and the narrow grass-grown streets, 
 curiously winding to meet the form 
 of the rock, sufficiently prove that 
 the tide of modern life has passed 
 away trom Eye, like that of the sea 
 itself, which once flowed close up 
 round it. It is now nearly 2 m. 
 distant ; and the harbour of Rye, 
 still of some importance (vessels of 
 200 tons can enter it), is formed 
 by the 3 rivers Eother, Brede, and 
 TiUingham, which here unite their 
 waters. Eye, like Winchelsea, was 
 granted by the Confessor to Fe'camp, 
 and was resimied by Henry III. It 
 became at an early i)criod one of the 
 Cinque Ports : and like other towns 
 on this coast, suffered much from 
 French invasions. Pestilence and 
 plague also visited it severely at dif- 
 ferent times — the combined result of 
 its crowded, sea-faring population, 
 and of the miasma from the adjoining 
 marshes. After the massacre of St. 
 Bartholomew a large body of French 
 protcstants took refuge here ; as did 
 others on the revocation of the edict 
 of Nantes, some of whose descend- 
 ants still remain in the town. 
 
 Elizabeth and Charles II. both 
 visited Eye. The first and second 
 Georges were driven into the port by 
 stress of weather — and detained here 
 some days — with what accompani- 
 ments of Hanoverian ill-temper is 
 not recorded. The sitting-room and 
 bed-room of George II. are still 
 shown in a liouse at the S.W. corner 
 of IMiddle Street. 
 
 The single "illustration" of Eye
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 1 
 
 o.- 
 
 -Rye. 
 
 249 
 
 is a bright one. John Fletclier, the 
 dramatist, literary brother of Beau- 
 mont, was born here Dec. 20, 1579. 
 His father, Richard Fletcher, after- 
 wards Bp. of Bristol, was at that 
 time rector of the town. 
 
 There are three points of interest 
 in Eye — the Church, the Land Gate, 
 and the Yjjres totver. 
 
 The Church well deserves the most 
 carefid examination. The earliest 
 portions are the central tower ; the 
 transepts ; and the plain circular 
 arches opening into them from the 
 aisles of the nave. These are early 
 Norm. In both transepts are frag- 
 ments of a Norm, arcade, with 
 zigzag mouldings. The nave is Tr. 
 Norm. The chancel has chapels on 
 either side, into which arches N. and 
 S. once opened ; these are now closed. 
 Those on the S. side, and one N., are 
 Perp. ; the rest E. E. The E. window 
 is rich Perp., by no means improved 
 by the Harlequin glass witli which 
 it is at present tilled. Tlie carved 
 mahogany altar-table is said to have 
 been taken from one of the Armada 
 ships, and to have lieen given to this 
 ch. by Queen Elizabeth. Unfortu- 
 nately for the tradition, it is certainly 
 not older than William III. Within 
 the rails is the brass of Thomas 
 Hamon (1C07), six times mayor of 
 Rye. The N. or St. Clare's Chapel 
 is E. E., and must originally liave 
 been very striking. On one side is 
 a row of two-light lancet windows, 
 interclosed, the splays of which are 
 pierced for a gallery which passes 
 through the wall ; on the other side 
 arches opent'd to the main chancel. 
 It is impossible to speak too severely 
 of the present state of tliis beautiful 
 chapel, desecrated, neglected, damp, 
 and filled with ladders and fire-en- 
 gines. Here is the monument of Allen 
 Grebell, who " fell by the cruel 
 stab of a sanguinary butcher, Mareli 
 17th, 1742." He was killed in mis- 
 take for a IMr. Lamb, with whom the 
 " sanguinary butcher" had quarrelled. 
 
 The S. or St. Nicholas" Chapel is 
 used as a school-room. The diver- 
 sity of styles in this ch. is said to be 
 owing to the destruction caused at 
 different periods by French inva- 
 sions. 
 
 The Perp. flying buttress at the 
 E. end, without, should not be un- 
 noticed. The clock on the other 
 side, the bells of which are struck 
 by a jiair of fat golden cherubs, is 
 .said, like the altar, fo have been the 
 gift of Elizabeth ; but it may well be 
 doubted if it be so old : it is con- 
 sidered, however, to be the most 
 ancient clock in England still ac- 
 tually doing its work. The weight 
 swings into the central tower. 
 
 The Ypres tower, at the S. E. angle 
 of the to\vn, was built by Wm. de 
 Ypres, Earl of Kent temp. Stephen. 
 It was at once a watch-tower and a 
 tower of defence, since the sea once 
 flowed close under the rock on which 
 it stands. It has been restored, and 
 now serves as the town prison. Tlie 
 tourist should pass beyond this tower 
 to the patli by the river, where he 
 M'ill get a good notion of the position 
 of Rye. The view, in clear weather, 
 stretches over Romney Marsh to the 
 clifts of Folkestone and Dover. 
 
 The Land Gate, on tlie London 
 road, N.E. of the town, is the 
 only one remaining, and deserves a 
 visit. 
 
 In Mermaid Street are some 
 remains of a storehouse built (1689) 
 by Samuel Jeake, a member of an 
 ancient Rye family. " The foundation 
 stone,' he says in his Diary, " was 
 laid precisely at xioon, mider a posi- 
 tion of heaven" — which is probably 
 tliat figured in a horoscope, still to 
 be seen carved on the building. On 
 the gable were three serpents, now 
 destroyed. The Mermaid Inn, in 
 this street, has some carved wains- 
 coting. 
 
 S. of the churchyard is a stone 
 building, supposed to liave been the 
 chapel of the Carmelites. That of
 
 250 
 
 Route 13. — Romney Marsh. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 the Augustine Friars is on Conduit 
 Hill and now used as a ■\vool-store. 
 
 At no great distance is the house 
 of C. Hicks, Esq., containing some 
 curious old furniture, glass, porce- 
 lain, and other antiquities. 
 
 On a hill about h ni. from Eye is 
 the Chiu-ch of Plmjden ; E. E. with 
 some Norm, fragments. Near the N. 
 door is a slab having on it two barrels, 
 with a brewer's fork and mash-stick, 
 crossed, and the inscription, " Hier is 
 begraven Cornells Zoctmanns — bidt 
 voer de ziele" (Pray for the soul). 
 It is of tlie 15th cent. The material 
 of the slab is the carlioniferous lime- 
 stone of the hills near Liege, acurious 
 proof that the "thiols " brewer had 
 not forgotten his native country. 
 There is another Flemish slab in All 
 Saints Church, Hastings. Many 
 Walloons who settled in Sussex are 
 known to have come fi'om the district 
 of Liege. In an old oak near Play- 
 den churchyard was formerly fixed 
 a tar-barrel, used as one of the chain 
 of beacons from the coast inland. 
 
 Men (2 m.) claims to have given 
 name to the family, one of whom, 
 Alexander Iden, Shakspeare's " gen- 
 tleman of Kent," killed Jack Cade. 
 Their ancient residence has dis- 
 appeared ; but the moat may still be 
 traced. Iden Church has some Norm, 
 portions. Peasemarsh, on its hill, 
 2 m. W., is Norm, and E. E. 
 
 Leaving Rye, the railway crosses 
 the mouth of the Pother, and enters 
 on the gi-eat level of Romney 
 Marshes. It soon reaches 
 
 7 m. Appledore. 
 
 This was the extreme E. point of 
 the great Andi'ed"s wood, fragments 
 of which (buried roots and branches) 
 are still discovered in a tract called 
 the Dowles (Sax. daelan, to divide), 
 now forming part of the marshes. 
 
 The Rother, which now passes S., 
 anciently ran across the marshes to 
 Romney ; and it was up this channel 
 (from Romney) that the Danish 
 pirates, under Hasten, i)assed, when 
 
 they established themselves at Ap- 
 pledore in 894. The Church has 
 been greatly altered, but exliibits 
 some unusual masonry, especially in 
 a projection from the N. side of the 
 nave, resembling that of Northiam, 
 Sussex (see Rte. 12), which may be 
 Saxon. The tower is Norm, with 
 Perp. insertions. 
 
 At Home Farm (1 m. N.W. of 
 the ch.) are the very interesting re- 
 mains of a late Dec. chapel. The 
 present house is modem, bnt the 
 chapel retains its original window- 
 frames and its open roof with carved 
 brackets. Below it is a vaulted 
 cellar. Home's Place was long the 
 residence of a family of that name 
 which became extmct in 1565. 
 
 In the garden of the vicarage at 
 Stone (2 m.) is preserved an ancient 
 altar (Brito-Roman '?) which before 
 its removal there, had, time out of 
 mind, been kept in tlie ch. It had 
 figures of oxen on its fom- sides, only 
 one of which is now perfect. At the 
 foot is an iron ring, for securing the 
 victims (? ) ; and vestiges of the iron 
 linnig to the basin existed until very 
 recently. This altar seems to illus- 
 trate the name of tlie district of 
 which Stone forms a part — Oxney, 
 the " oxen island." The island, 6 m. 
 long, 3 m. broad, is formed by two 
 branches of the Rother, and is famous 
 for its fertile cattle-feeding marshes. 
 
 [Appledore is perhaps the best 
 l^oint from which to penetrate Rom- 
 ney Marsli, a tract so isolated, that, 
 say the marshmen, the world is di- 
 vided into Europe, Asia, Africa, 
 America, and Romney Marsh. The 
 greater part oftliis land is of ancient 
 formation, tliough it has Avidened 
 considerably within historical times, 
 owing to fresh accumulations of silt 
 and shingle. There was a Roman 
 settlement on it ; and the Merscwara 
 (marslunen) of the Sax. Chron. 
 (whose district formed, according to 
 Kemble, one of the small dependent 
 "kingdoms" into which Kent was
 
 Sussex. Route 13. — Romney Marsh. — New Romney. 
 
 251 
 
 divided during the earlj' Saxon period) 
 have had tlieir constant successors, 
 notwithstanding the malaria, wliicli 
 renders it, says Lambarde, " bad in 
 winter, worse in summer, and at no 
 time good." It is about 14 m. long, 
 and 8 broad, and is divided into four 
 disti-icts • — Romney Marsh proper, 
 N. ; WaUend Blarsh, adjoining, S. ; 
 and S.E. and W., Denge Marsh and 
 Guildford Marsh, part of which lies 
 in Sussex. Eomney Marsh proper 
 contains 23,925 acres, and the other 
 three 22,666. 
 
 There are few or no trees through- 
 out the district, and the principal di- 
 visions are formed by dykes and 
 watercourses. Cattle and sheep are 
 fed here in great numbers ; the 
 latter a peculiar breed, said to be 
 capable of enduring greater priva- 
 tions from cold and stinted food 
 than any other " lowlanders." The 
 green cattle-dotted plain, with its 
 gleaming water lines, is not with- 
 out its own beauty when overlooked 
 from the adjoining heights — often 
 presenting singular effects of light. 
 There are numerous churches scat- 
 tered through it, many of Norm, date, 
 much of the Marsh having been in 
 the hands of the two great Canter- 
 bury Abbej'S, which did not neglect 
 their outlying parishes. 
 
 The whole tract was very early 
 fenced from the incursions of the 
 sea, 24 jm-ors having been elected 
 from an unknown period for taking 
 all necessary steps towards its preser- 
 vation. Some complaint having been 
 made by these jurors in the reign of 
 Henry III., the king issued a commis- 
 sion under Henry de Bathe, one of 
 his Justices Itinerant, by whom a 
 sessions was held at Eomney ; and 
 the ' Ordinances of Henry de Bathe,' 
 then agreed to, still lie at the bottom 
 of the English law of chaining 
 and embanking. The whole of the 
 Marsh was incorporated by Edward 
 IV. under whose charter the govern- 
 ment was placed in the hands of a 
 
 bailiff and 24 jurats. The repair of 
 the walls, and the chainage, is, how- 
 ever, vested in the lords of 2.S adjoin- 
 ing manors, called " The Lords of 
 the Marsh." 
 
 The Marsh is defended from the 
 sea by Dlmclmrcli Wall, on its E. 
 side, 3 m. long. But for this barrier 
 the sea would overflow it at once. 
 The interior drainage is effected by 
 a number of divisions called water- 
 ings. The Blue Wall, which i-uns 
 across it from Appledore to Romney, 
 marks the old course of the Eother, 
 from which the river is said first to 
 have been diverted by the results of 
 a great tempest temp. Edw. I. In 
 this old bed an ancient vessel, appa- 
 rently of Dutch (?) build, was found 
 within the last few years. It was 
 entirely of oak. 
 
 From its solitude, this coast was 
 extensively favoured by smugglers ; 
 and at one period by Jacobites. 
 Hm-st House in the fens here was 
 their great place of resort during the 
 concoction of Fenwick's Plot iu' 
 1696, and Fenwick himself was af- 
 terwards taken here. (Macaulaij, iv. 
 650.) 
 
 From Appledore the tourist may 
 cross the marsh to Romney (7 m.)'; 
 and if he pleases, proceed along the 
 coast road, to Hj-the and Folkestone. 
 
 Snargate (IJ m.) has an E.E. ch. of 
 some interest. In the pavement 
 are many encaustic tiles. The ch. 
 belonged to the archbishop. 
 
 The ch. of Brenzet (4 m.), dedi- 
 cated to St. Eanswith of Folkestone, 
 has some Norm, portions. It long 
 belonged to the Abbey of Guisues 
 in Artois. 
 
 Brookland (li m. S.) was attached 
 to St. Augustine's, Canterlniry, and 
 is worth a detour. The bell-tower, 
 built of massive timber, is detached 
 from the ch., and of uiuisual form. 
 The font is Norm., of lead, and en- 
 riched by two rows of minute figures. 
 
 New Eomney, 8 m. (Pop. 1100 — 
 Lin: the New Inn), Bumen-ea, the
 
 252 
 
 Route 13. — Dungeness. 
 
 Sect. IT. 
 
 " large island " (Somner — but query), 
 tlie most central of tlie Cinque Ports, 
 though perhaps not the most ancient, 
 contains few relics of its former im- 
 portance besides its church dedicated 
 to St./Nicholas. This is mahilyNorm. 
 and of considerable size. The tower, 
 which is lofty, and seen over all the 
 surrounding level, has an exterior 
 arcade of Norm, arches. The upper 
 part of the nave is E. E. Brassm : 
 Thomas Smith (jurat) and wife, 
 KJlO ; Thomas Lambaude, 1514. 
 This ch. is the solitary survivor of 
 five, which Komney boasted in her 
 flourishing days. It was early 
 granted to the Abbey of Pontiniac, 
 which had a cell here, of which no 
 traces remain. 
 
 The imiJortance of Eomney as a 
 seaport ceased altogether after the 
 storm which changed the course of 
 the Rotlier (temp. Edw. I.). The 
 general courts of the Cinque Ports 
 were long held here however, after 
 their removal from Shipway Cross 
 near Lymne. 
 
 A large fair, at which the sheep of 
 the Marsh breed may be duly in- 
 spected and admired, takes place at 
 Eomney, August 21st. 
 
 5 m. N. are some remains of Hope 
 Chapel. They are Trans. Norm. 
 
 Old Romney, about 1 m. liigher up 
 the ancient course of the Eother, is 
 said to have been the earliest port. 
 The silting up of the river's mouth 
 must have begun at a very early 
 ])eriod, since New Eomney was es- 
 tablished soon after the conquest. 
 The ch. may be worth examination. 
 
 Lydd (3 m. S. of Eomney) was a 
 member of that Cinque Port, and 
 has a large Perp. ch. Brasses : John 
 Montelforet, vicar, 1420 ; Clement 
 Stuppeneye, jm-at and bailiff, 1G08. 
 In the N. chancel is the altai"-tomb, 
 with eiBgj', of Sir Walter MeyneU, 
 t^mp. Edw. III. This ch. was grante'd 
 bv one of the De Glares to Tintern 
 Abbey. 
 
 At Stone end on the shore, E. of 
 
 the town, a heap of stones was long 
 shown, called the Tomb of SS. 
 Crispin and Crispiauus, who, ran the 
 tradition, were shipwrecked and 
 buried here. (Their legend was also 
 connected with Faversham — -Ete. 4.) 
 
 The whole of the land S. of Lydd 
 seems to be of more recent forma- 
 tion than the rest of the marshes. 
 Among a mass of pebbles and sea 
 beach nearly adjoining the town on 
 this side is the Holmstone, a long tract 
 covered with the sea holly or holm, 
 here attaining an unusual size. 
 
 TJuncje.ness, surroimded by flats and 
 sand shoals, contrasting not a little 
 with the bold chalk clifis of the next 
 southern headland, Beachy, may be 
 reached over the marshes from Lydd 
 (4 m.). There is little to attract 
 however. The lighthouse on this spot, 
 of which the perils resemble those 
 of the Goodwins, was first projected 
 by a brother goldsmith of George 
 Heriot, temp. Jas. I., named Allen. 
 This old liglit was replaced toward 
 the end of the last century, at the 
 sole expense of the late Earl of Lei- 
 cester, when member for Norfolk, 
 by one built after the model of 
 the Eddystone. The architect was 
 Wyatt. 
 
 The point of Dungeness gains so 
 rapidly from the sea, that it is said 
 to have extended above 1 m. seaward 
 within living memory. This growth 
 is caused by the accumulation of 
 shingle, which throughout the chan- 
 nel is in constant motion from W. 
 toE. 
 
 Between Dungeness and Folke- 
 stone the line of coast is dotted with 
 Mflrtello towers placed at regular 
 uitervals. These date from 1807, 
 when this sorxthern coast especially 
 demanded protection. 
 
 The road from New Eonniey to 
 Hythe (10 m.), nms the whole way 
 parallel with the shore ; and, for 
 about 8 m., along the crest of the 
 sea wall, which, more like one of 
 Vaubau's bastions than a Flemish
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Iloiite 1 3. — Dimchurch. — Bihhigton. 
 
 253 
 
 dune, here protects the marshes. 
 It is kept in repair by a tax levied 
 over the whole district ; is about 20 
 ft. m height, and 20 broad at the 
 top. At the base it mdens to more 
 than 300 ; and its various outworks 
 of jetties, groins, and fuggotg, well 
 deserve attention. 
 
 At Dimcliurch, i^ m. (where the 
 ch. has Norm, portions), dming some 
 recent alterations of the sea wall, the 
 remains of a Eoman pottery were 
 discovered ; the situation of which 
 proved that in this part of the 
 marshes the sea has l^een gaining on 
 the land, which, but for the wall, 
 would rapidly be submerged. Great 
 masses of pottery were here dis- 
 covered ; among them, iSamian ware 
 of unvisual beauty. The greater 
 part however was a grey ware, re- 
 sem1>Ung tliat of the Eoman pottery 
 at Upchurch on the Medway. Few 
 coins were found ; but some sepul- 
 chral deposits, indicathig a perma- 
 nent settlement. Under the pottery 
 were discovered bones of the mam- 
 moth and whale ; and above it Saxon 
 and mechseval rehcs ; — a singular 
 mixture of ages. 
 
 The hue of the ancient estuary, 
 which, beyond Dimchm'ch, passed 
 inland as far as Ljanne, is readily 
 traceable by the eye. The sand 
 ■with which the soil is filled contrasts 
 strongly in colour with the rich pas- 
 tures southwards. 3 
 
 At the station beyond Api>ledore, 
 
 3 m. Ham Street, the railway 
 leaves the marshes. 
 
 At Bihington (3.i m. E. of Ham) 
 are the remains of a priory of Au- 
 gustinian canons, founded about 1253 
 by John Mansell, Henry III."s Great 
 Counsellor — " the wealthiest clerk in 
 Christendom," — who entertained tlie 
 Kings of England and Scotland at a 
 dinner of which the first course con- 
 sisted of 700 dishes. 
 
 The priory stands on high ground, 
 having a good view over the marsli. 
 Part of the ancient buildings have 
 
 been worked into the present farm- 
 house. 
 
 Rucking, between Ham and Bil- 
 sington, belonged to the see of Can- 
 terbury. The ch. has Norm, por- 
 tions. 
 
 Near the clnu'ch of Kenardington 
 (1 m. W. of Ham) is a British earth- 
 work of considerable size, comiected 
 by a narrow causeway with a second 
 in the marsh below. The forms of 
 both are irregular. 
 
 The Church of Woodchurcli, 2 m. 
 in the Weald, is E.E. and has some 
 remains of stained glass. It has 
 lately (1857) been well restored. 
 Brass: Nic. de Gore, 1320; his 
 figure wears the chasiible, and is 
 jilaced in the midst of a floriated 
 cross. In this ch. is buried Simon 
 de Woodchurch, i^resent with Ed- 
 ward I. at the siege of Carlaverock, 
 and renowned as " Malleus Scot- 
 onuu" — the "Hammer" of the 
 Scots. 
 
 Beyond Ham Street, crossing the 
 military canal which unites Rye with 
 Hythe, the railway enters a level 
 district of the Weald, which con- 
 tinues to 
 
 6 m. Ashford. (see Rte. 8.) 
 
 N 3
 
 254 
 
 Eonte 14:. — London to Brighton. 
 
 Sect. IT. 
 
 ROUTE 14. 
 
 LONDON TO BRIGHTON. 
 
 (London and Briiihton Raihoay. 
 London Bridge Station.) 
 
 For the line from London to Eed- 
 hill (Eeigate Junction), 20§ ni., and 
 thence to Horley, see Handbook for 
 Surrey, ^'C. 
 
 1 m. beyond Horley the line 
 enters on the Weald clay ; and shortly 
 after, crossing the boundary of Sus- 
 sex, we reach 
 
 29J m. Three Bridges, where 2 
 branch lines pass E. and W. to 
 Horsham and East Grinstead. For 
 that to Horsham, see Kte. 18 ; for 
 East CTrinstead, Kte. 17. 
 
 [About IJ m. E. of the Three 
 Bridges station is the Utile Church of 
 Worth, well known to arclijeologists 
 from its affording the only perfect 
 specimen of an Anglo-Saxon ground- 
 plan that remains. It stands very 
 pictiiresqucly on a rising ground, 
 encircled by trees. The Uch gate, 
 througli which the churchyard is 
 entered, N.W., is of some anti- 
 quity. The ch. itself is cruciform, 
 consisting of a nave, N. and S. 
 transepts, and chancel, with a cir- 
 cular apse at the E. end. Tlie 
 walls are covered witli plaster, but 
 are built of roughly-squared stones, 
 and rubble. The nave and transepts 
 have external quoins of long and 
 short work. The great Saxon pecu- 
 liarities are of com-se the external 
 bands of stone, one of whicli was 
 carried as a string-coin-se round the 
 whole building at half the height of 
 the walls. Tliis is supported by 
 pilasters of irregular long and short 
 ■work, wliicli rest in theu' turn on a 
 
 projecting, double course of stone. 
 Tliis base is in 2 stages, of which the 
 vipper recedes, and " reminds us of 
 the graduate pUnths in classical 
 architecture, from which it may have 
 been derived through debased ex- 
 amples existing in this comitry" 
 ( \V. S. Widford, in Suss. Arch. Coll.). 
 The stringcoiirses of nave and chan- 
 cel are of different heights — possi])ly 
 a proof that the 2 portions were not 
 built at once. Stringcourse, base, 
 and pilasters are now defective in 
 many parts. There is no evidence 
 that tlie pilasters were ever carried 
 above the stringcourse, although at 
 Corhampton, Hants, they reach quite 
 to the roof. These stone bandings 
 are tliought to have been derived 
 from the earher wooden churches, 
 some features of which were thus 
 copied in stone. 
 
 The external buttresses and masses 
 of masonry are all modern. The 
 doorways, W. and S., are insertions 
 of the ' Dec. period. The chancel 
 arch lias some rude ornament ; those 
 of tlie transepts are quite plain. In 
 the E. side of N. transept is tlie only 
 window that can be original ( W. S. 
 WaJford), small, and semicircular. 
 In the Dec. window over tlie W. 
 door are the arms of De Warrene. 
 The roof is unhappily ceiled, and 
 flat. The font is remarkable, and 
 formed of 2 basins, one above the 
 other ; why so placed is micertain. 
 
 Altliough the Saxon arcliitecture 
 and plan of this ch. are generally 
 admitted, its date must nevertheless 
 be placed ivithin the lltli cent. It 
 may have been the work of some 
 Saxon " eorl " who fixed himself here 
 among the forests for the sake of 
 their " wild deer." ( W. S. W.) It 
 afterwards became part of tlie barony 
 of Lewes, and continued in the hands 
 of the De Warrenes until 1347, when 
 it passed to the Fitzalans. 
 
 The forest of Worth still retains 
 its name, and extends far into the 
 adjoining parishes. Tilgate forest
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 14. — Bdlcomhe. — West HoaHihj. 
 
 was formerly considered a portion of 
 it. Tlie scenery is wild and pleasant. 
 The gronnd is well liroken ; patches 
 of heatli and birch-wood occur in all 
 directions ; and some fragments of 
 the older and more " patrician " forest 
 still linger here and there. The 
 artist may wander hero with advan- 
 tage, and will find more and more 
 work for his portfolio as he wanders 
 toward the higher ground, E. A 
 long but very pleasant walk may be 
 taken from Worth to Wakehurst 
 Place and Ardingly Church, return- 
 ing to tlie railway at Balcombe. 
 
 A peculiar sandstone is much dug 
 in the parish of Worth, " of a white, 
 pale fa\vn or yellow colom-, occa- 
 sionally containing leaves and stems 
 of ferns and other plants " (Mantell). 
 Here and in Tilgate forest, in wet, 
 heathy spots, occurs the rare lichen 
 " Scyphophorus microj^hyllus."] 
 
 From Three Uridges the railway 
 passes through Tilgate forest — here 
 of no great importance — xmtil it 
 reaches 
 
 33| m. Balcombe, where is a little 
 inn in which the tourist will find 
 tolerable accommodation whilst bo- 
 tanising or geologising throughout 
 the neighbouring district. For the 
 general character of the Wealden 
 formation (of which Tilgate forest 
 consists) see Introd. Sussex. It was 
 the delta of a vast river, and con- 
 tains the remailis of palms and tree- 
 ferns, mixed with tliose of enormous 
 reptiles, of all which ample notices 
 will be found in Dr. MariteU's ' Fossils 
 of Tilgate Forest." The first teeth and 
 bones of the Iguanodon, and the first 
 enornious fragments of the Hylceo- 
 saurus, were discovered here by Dr. 
 Mantell. The forest contains 1500 
 acres ; })ut the woodland scenery on 
 tliis side is not equal to that al)out 
 Worth. Balcombe Church is partly 
 E. B. 
 
 [_Ardmglij Church (about 2 m. S.E.) 
 has some good Den. portions, com- 
 prising an oaken screen. The porch 
 
 is of wood, and ancient. In the 
 chancel is the stone effigy of an un- 
 known lady ; anotlier of a knight, pro- 
 bably one of the Wakehursts ; and on 
 the floor are many Bi-asses. chieliy 
 Cidpcpers of Wakehurst. The best, 
 however, is of Richard Wakehurst 
 and his wife Elizabeth, 14(!4, on a 
 Perp. tomb in the chancel. The 
 husband's is a good example of the 
 ordinary costume at this period. 
 Wakehurst Phire (S»- Aiex. ©r?ek- >7c^'^ 
 bu»i), a short distance N. of the ch., 
 was the original seat of the Wake- 
 hursts. It passed to the Culpepers, 
 one of whom, in 15U0, built the pre- 
 sent mansion, picturesque with its 
 gray lichens, and worth a visit. 
 
 West Hoatldij, 3 m. N.E. of Ar- 
 dingly, has a ch. with some E. E. 
 portions. At the Tower entrance 
 (used as stepping-stones) are 2 iron 
 grave-slabs for members of the Infield 
 family — a use to which the Sussex iron 
 was not unfrequently applied. (The 
 Swedish and Norwegian iron has 
 been used in the same manner ; there 
 are some elaborately-worked slaljs in 
 the churchyard of the cathedral of 
 Tronjhem.) About i m. AV. of the ch., 
 on the summit of a sandstone cliff, is 
 a mass of rock, weigliing about 300 
 tons, and poised on the very point of 
 another. Its local name is " Great 
 upon Little." It is not a logan rock ; 
 and there seems no reason to regard 
 it as in any way connected with 
 Druichsm, though some early anti- 
 quaries found in it the shapeless em- 
 blem of the British deity Andrast, 
 whose name has also been traced in 
 that of the Andreds -'wooA, in the 
 midst of wiiicli stands " Great upon 
 Little." Dr. Guest, however, sug- 
 gests, and with far greater proba- 
 bility, that the true etymology of 
 this great forest, whicli covered all 
 Sussex N. of the chalk hills, is an, 
 the Celtic negative prefix, and tred, 
 a dwelling — i. e. "the uninhabited 
 region." 
 
 The scenery of all this sandstone
 
 256 
 
 EoUle 14. — CucJ;JioId. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 istrict has miicli beauty and variety, 
 aiul will well repay the tourist in 
 Seareli of the pictmx-sque. It belongs 
 to the class of wliich Tiuibridge 
 Wells and its neighbovu-hood is a 
 good type — totally distinct from that 
 of the Surrey hills, or from the un- 
 dulating sloi^es of the South Downs. 
 
 SeJsfieJd Common, N. of W. Hoathly 
 Ghnrch, was formerly a beacon sta- 
 tion, and comiuands tine and very 
 wide views over paiis of Kent, Surrey, 
 and Sussex.] 
 
 [In the village of Slaugham (3 m. 
 W. ofBalcombe) are some remains of 
 Slaugham Place, the ancient resi- 
 dence of the Coverts, a family of great 
 distinction here during the reigns of 
 Elizabeth and James I., when their 
 manors, says tradition, extended 
 " from Southwark to the sea." In 
 the cli. are some early stained glass, 
 and several Brasses of the Coverts : —   
 John Covert, 1503 ; Jane, 15SG ; and 
 a remarkable one for Richard Covert 
 and his 3 wives, 1547. He is stand- 
 ing in his coffin, staff hi hand, looking 
 toward a figm-e of the Saviour- rising 
 from his sepulchre.] 
 
 A short distance beyond Balcombe 
 the railway crosses the viaduct over 
 the river Ouse, one of the longest 
 and most important in the kingdom, 
 and constructed at a cost of 58,000/. 
 It has 37 arclies, about GO feet high 
 at tlve centre of the viaduct. Tli'e 
 entire length is more than J m. 2 
 m. beyond we reach 
 
 38 m. Hayward s Heath, whence a 
 branch-line i^asses to Lewes (see Rte. 
 15). There is a tolerable inn close 
 to the station, where carriages are to 
 be hired. From this point some 
 interesting covmtry is accessible. 
 
 lOw-kfield, 2 m. W. (Inn: the 
 King's Head), lifts its E. E. ch.-tower 
 among pleasant, wooded sceneiy. 
 The ch., orighially E. E., has 
 had much Perp. addition. It con- 
 tains monuments by Flaxmau and 
 Westmacott. 
 
 Cuckjield Place (W. Sergison, Esq.) 
 
 dates from the end of the IGth cent., 
 and is the original Eookwood Hall 
 of Ainsworth's romance. " The 
 general features of the venei-able 
 structiu-e, several of its chambers, 
 the old garden, and in particular the 
 noble park, with its spreading pros- 
 l)ects, its picturesque views of the 
 hall, ' like bits of Mrs. Radcliffe ' 
 (as the poet Shelley once observed 
 of the same scene), its deep glades 
 through winch the deer come lightly 
 tripping down, its uplands, slopes, 
 brooks, brakes, coverts, and groves 
 are carefidly delineated " (Introd. to 
 Eookwood). The prototype of the 
 fatal tree, from which a liough al- 
 "ways fell on the approaching death 
 of its ownier, was also fomul here. 
 It is an enonnous lime, standing in 
 the avenue that leads up to the 
 house, and preserved with all the 
 veneration due to so mysterious a 
 family guardian. Other ancient 
 houses in tliis neighboui'hood are 
 Board. Hill (Capt. Preston\ Slough, 
 and Tye. Ochendon House, adjoining 
 the village, was the residence of 
 Timothy Bm-rell, whose very curious 
 jom-nal (1GS3-17U:) will bo foinid in 
 the Sussex Arch. Coll., vol. iii. " Pan- 
 doxa\i, Pandoxavi," writes tlie worthy 
 Sussex squire on his brewing days, 
 illustrating the entry by a Rus- 
 kincsque sketch of a beer-barrel. In 
 the S. part of the parish is Leigh 
 Pond, covering about 50 acres, and a 
 favoiuite resort of -ndld-fowl during 
 the winter-months. The geologist 
 shoiild visit the quarries on the hill 
 above the town. They were at one 
 time very productive, and the usual 
 wealden fossils may still be obtained 
 from tliem. 
 
 Bohieij, 3 m. W. of Cuckfield, has 
 a Perp. church, jjicturesquely situated 
 above the village. The neigliboitr* 
 hood is very lieautiful ; and the 
 Adur has here become a " troutful 
 stream," though of no great size. 
 St. Leonard's forest (see Rte. 18) 
 extends into the northern part of the
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 14. — Lindfield. 
 
 267 
 
 parish, which is entirely woodhriid. I 
 There are grand views over tlie 
 downs, and toward the Hampshire 
 hills, from Bolney Conmion, famons 
 for its cherry-trees and camomile. 
 Coonibe House and BoJneij Manor in 
 this parish are both houses of some 
 antiquity. 
 
 The Chm-ch of Twineham, 2 m. S., 
 is entirely of brick, and of uncertain 
 date. Illcksted Place, an ancient 
 house in this parish adjoining the 
 Brighton road, has its walls orna- 
 mented ^vitll great blocks of brick 
 eartli, worked into crosses and other 
 devices. Such enormous bricks are 
 still made in the county (HHSsey)."] 
 
 ^Lindfield, 2 m. E. of Haj-^vard's 
 Heath, is in the midst of a most pic- 
 tm-esque district, still more interest- 
 ing, especially as it stretches farther 
 N.E. than that on the W. side of the 
 railway. Lmdfield Church is for 
 the most part Porp., the tower pos 
 
 very miusual 
 
 pressed or in- 
 
 iles, — the entire 
 
 h tile 15 in. 
 
 ,520. On the 
 
 sibly E. E 
 sepulchral efH^ 
 cised on 3 glo 
 size 45 in. by 
 / square. The d 
 
 wall*» a mural painting of the Dec. 
 period — St. Michael, his robe pow- 
 dered with Gothic M's, stands on 
 a 6-headed monster, weighing souls. 
 The monster's heads are severed. 
 Beside him is the Virgin with a 
 jewelled nimbus, who wounds the 
 dragon with her staff. A small 
 figure prays at her feet. There are 
 many wooden houses in the long, 
 pleasant village street. The work- 
 house also deserves notice. 
 
 In this neighbom-hood is Pax 
 Hill, an Elizabethan house, built 
 about 1606, and worth looking at. 
 Other old houses are Kenwards, 
 once belonging to the Challoners ; 
 jtSfunt, to the Hamlyus ; and East 
 Mascalls, to the Newtons. All 3 are 
 now farm-houses. 
 
 From Lindfield, through a lovely 
 country, richly wooded, and affording 
 glimpses of the distant South Downs 
 
 through the outspreading boughs, 
 the tourist may visit Horsted Keynes, 
 3 m. The ch. is mainly E. E., and 
 contains a small cross-legged effigy 
 27 in. in length. Similar ones exist 
 at Mappowder, Dorset ; Long Wil- 
 lenham, Berks ; Tenbiuy, Gloucester- 
 shire ; and Little Hempstead, Devon. 
 The date is early in the reign of 
 Edward I. The rings of mail are not 
 marked, and were perhaps painted. 
 The effigy probably represents one 
 of the Keynes family, who may have 
 gone to the Holy Land with Edward 
 I. This Norman family was spread 
 over various comities in the S. of 
 England : Cheney seems to be the 
 same name — Cahaignes in Noimandy 
 was its cradle. In the S. chancel is 
 buried the excellent Abp. Leighton, 
 d. June 3, 1684. The slab records 
 his name only. After his resigna- 
 tion of the archbishopric of Glasgow, 
 he spent 10 years at Broadhurst in 
 this parish, preaching hi all the 
 neighbouring churches, and practis- 
 ing what he preached. During his 
 sermons, "I never once," says Bp. 
 Burnet, " saw a wandering eye." 
 Broadhurst is now a farmhouse. 
 
 The ethfying journal of Giles 
 Moore, rector of Horsted 1655-1679, 
 supplies a picture of Sussex life 
 before the period when Sqiiire 
 Burrell of Cuckiield takes up the 
 tale. (Suss. Arch. Coll. i.) His 
 various troubles and expenses, and 
 how he became " obnubilatus" with 
 certain perry, " not knowmg how 
 strong the liquor was," are all care- 
 fully recorded.] 
 
 For the branch line which runs 
 from Haj-ward's Heatli to Lewes 
 see Rte. 15. At the tunnel close be- 
 yond the Hayward's Heath station 
 a good section is exposed of the 
 Wealden sand, sandstone, shale, and 
 blue marl, or oak-tree clay, to a 
 depth of about 36 yds. At 
 
 41J m. we reach the Burgess Hill 
 Station; rt. is Clayton Priory (Col. 
 Elwood), and 2 m. further
 
 258 
 
 Route 14. — Hassock's Gate. — Hurstpierpoint. Sect. IT. 
 
 43^ m. JIassocli's Gate (" Hassock," 
 ill the local dialect, signifies a thick 
 coi)j)ice, or small wood), from which 
 mucli interesting countiy is com- 
 manded on either side. Carriages 
 are sometimes to be had at an inn 
 near the station, hut caiuiot be de- 
 pended ou. The ped<-stiian, however, 
 who climbs the S. Downs from this 
 point, will have the advantage in 
 every way. [^Eastward, he should 
 make for 
 
 Ditchling Beacon (aliout 3 m. from 
 the station, 8.58 ft. aljove sea-level), 
 the higliest point of tlie whole S. 
 chalk range, of which the northern 
 escarpment is here unusually bold. 
 In clear weather the views are very 
 grand, commanding nearly the whole 
 of Sussex, and a glittering border of 
 sea. On the summit are tlie remains 
 of a s(xuare entrenchment, probably 
 Roman. The ancient " via" up the 
 N. face of the downs still exists, 
 except at the lower part, where a 
 chalk pit has destroyed it. The 
 walk into Lewes from this point, 
 along the crests of the hills (about 
 6 m.), is one of the finest to be 
 had in the county, and will give 
 an excellent notion of the downs 
 themselves, ■with their " deans" and 
 " combes," all marked with green 
 fairy riiigs, and solitaiy Celtic bar- 
 rows. Mount Hari-y, the scene of the 
 great battle, lies about half way. 
 (See Rte. 15). 
 
 The Church of Keynipr, 1 m. from 
 the station, has a plain circular 
 chancel arch, which vkoj be Saxon. 
 That of Ditrhlinf), through which 
 village the pedestrian will pass on 
 his way to the Beacon, is worth 
 notice. It has Tr.-Norm. (nave 
 and aisle) and rich E. E. portions 
 (tower, transepts, and chancels). 
 S. of the ch. is a picturesque old 
 house, now converted into shops. 
 
 At riumpton FUwe, close under 
 the downs, about .5 m. from IjCwcs, 
 is an old moated house, once the seat 
 of the Mascalls. Leonard Mascall, 
 
 who lived here tomp. Hen. YIIL, is 
 said to have introduced the carp to 
 this county from the Danube ; and 
 the first of this species brought into 
 England were turned into the moat 
 here, three sides of which still re- 
 main. The Golden Pippin, which 
 he is also said to have introduced, 
 has however been claimed as a native 
 of Sussex, and its birthplace fixed at 
 Parham Park. 
 
 Street Place, a fine James I. house, 
 nearer the Lewes brancli of railway, 
 was the ancient seat of the Dobells. 
 It is now a farmhouse. The room 
 whicli was once the library has j^ilas- 
 ters of carved work, and a cornice full 
 of Ijatin mottoes such as the royal 
 Solomon himself affected. The house 
 contained a curious hiding-place, en- 
 tered from the great hall chimney. 
 During the civil wars, runs a maiwel- 
 lous tradition, a horseman, piu-sued 
 by a eompanyof Roundheadtroopers, 
 gallopedinto thehall, and disappeared 
 in this recess ; neither he nor his 
 horse could ever be found aftei-wards. 
 
 In the ch. adjoining is a tablet to 
 Mrs. Martha Cogger, who was, it 
 appears, " A pattern of Piety and 
 Politeness" — a double P which as- 
 suredly should never be disunited. 
 
 West of Hassock's Gate, the first 
 point of interest is Hurstpierpoint, 
 The village lies about 2^ m. ti-om 
 the station. I^ike tlie hursts of the 
 Kt^ntish Weald, the countiy here 
 shows a deep clay, in which grow 
 "okes grete," such as Chaucer loved 
 to paint, with all tlieir accompani- 
 ments. The church of Hurstpier- 
 point was rebuilt, some years since, 
 by Sir Charles Barry, in the Dec. 
 style ; its doors are always open 
 — a proceeding from whicli no ill 
 results have followed, and which 
 might well be imitated in Sussex 
 and elsewhere. In the S. transept 
 is a much shattered cross-legged 
 effigy (temp. Hen. III.) ; and in the 
 N. aisle another of a knight (temp. 
 Edw. HI.); neither have been satisfac-
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Houte 1 4. — Hurstpierpoint. — Brighton. 
 
 259 
 
 torily appropriated. There are wide 
 views from the churchyard. Leith 
 Hill, in Surrey, is visible, N. E. the 
 prospect extends to Ashdown Forest, 
 and S. is the long green line of the 
 Downs. 
 
 The Manor, with its ancient park, 
 lying N. of the cli., helonged to the 
 Pierrepoint family until it passed 
 into the hands of the Dacres, temp. 
 Edw. IV. It now belongs to W. J. 
 Campion, Esq., whose seat, Danny 
 Park, like other Elizabethan houses, 
 lies close under the do^vns. The 
 house is of brick, and dates from 
 1595. The park contains some of 
 the grandest oaks in the neighbour- 
 hood. On Wolstanhury Hill, at the 
 back of the house, is a circular camp, 
 probably British. 
 
 St. John s Cvllege, a newly founded 
 middle-class school, in connexion 
 with that at Lancing (see Lancing, 
 Ete. 16, for a notice of the full 
 scheme), stands off the road, about 
 1 m. N., half-way between the Has- 
 sock's Gate station and the village 
 of Hurst. It contains accommoda- 
 tion for 300 boys, sons of farmers and 
 small traders, for whom an excellent 
 education is provided. Tiie ordinary 
 expenses of education and board are 
 fixed at 18?. 18s. per annum ; but 
 there are one or t\vo special classes 
 for which . the terms are somewhat 
 higher. 
 
 A walk from Hurstpierpoint to 
 Brighton, over and among the downs, 
 may be safely recommended to the 
 pedestrian. The distance is about 
 9 m. 
 
 About 1 m. S. of the Hassock 
 Gate station is the little Church of 
 Clayton, in which is a round, massive, 
 chancel arch resembling those called 
 Saxon. The chancel is E. E. : " at 
 the E. end of N. wall of nave ap- 
 peal's an arch, now filled up, with 
 marks of a roof over it." {Hussey.) 
 The whole building deserves notice.] 
 
 Below Clayton the rail pierces the 
 line of the S. Downs by a tunnel 
 
 nearly I5 m. in length, the exrava- 
 tion of which cost upwards of 90,O00Z. 
 Deep chalk cuttings and a shorter 
 timnel succeed. Some part of Stan- 
 nier Park (Earl of Cliichester) tlien 
 opens 1., and at last ajipears 
 
 50| m. Brighton (Pop. 70,000, with 
 an average of 25,000 visitors. Hotels : 
 Old Sliip, Royal Albion, Bedford, 
 Boyal York, Bristol, all first-class 
 (especially in their charges), and all 
 facing tlie sea. Second-rate, but 
 still excellent, are the Norfolk, New 
 Shij), New Steyne, and very many 
 more. In Brighton, as in London, 
 eveiT class of hotel is to be found ; 
 in all, the charges increase according 
 to the season. The price of lodgings 
 varies according to the sea-view. It 
 is, however, at all times an expen- 
 sive place of residence, the cost, of 
 living and house-rent bemg about 
 one-third more than in London. The 
 principal baths are Brills', Creale's 
 and Ilobdens. There are machines 
 at difi'erent stations along the strand, 
 but tlie beach is shingle, without 
 sand. 
 
 Eailroads have in fact made 
 Brighton the marine suburb of Lon- 
 don, to which city it serves as a 
 " lung " almost as effectually as Hyde 
 Park. " It is the fashion to run down 
 George IV. ; but what myriads of 
 Londoners ought to thank him for 
 inventing Brighton ! One of tlie best 
 physicians our city has ever known 
 is kind, cheerful, merry Doctor 
 Brigliton. Hail thou purveyor of 
 shrimps, and honest prescriber of 
 South Down mutton ; no fly so plea- 
 sant as Brighton flys ; nor any clifls 
 so pleasant to ride on ; no shops so 
 beautiful to look at as the Brighton 
 gimcrack shops, and the fruit shops, 
 and the market. I fiincy myself in 
 Mrs. Honeyman's lodgings in Steyne 
 Gardens, and in enjoyment of all 
 these things." {Tliackeray — New- 
 comes, vol. i.) 
 
 All who wish stir and bustle, gay 
 bonnets, and groves of parasols, may
 
 2G0 
 
 Route 14, — Brighton. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 select Brigliton as their watering- 
 place. It is the largest in the world, 
 and a greater mixture is to be 
 found liere than in any other bathing 
 town. In its streets all classes meet 
 and jostle with as much variety as 
 in Pall 3Iall, and its rows of white, 
 staring terraces might Iiave walked 
 out from Hyde Park or Belgravia. 
 What London cannot give, however, 
 is the wide sweep of open channel, 
 or the famous pier, " where for the 
 sum of twopence you can go out to 
 sea and pace the vast deep without 
 need of a steward witli a basin.'' 
 There is no beauty in the town itself ; 
 and the "pinnacles of the beloved 
 George " provoke any feelings rather 
 than those of admiration. 
 
 BrifjJdhdmdone claims to derive 
 its name from an early bishop of 
 Selsea : but who the original Bright- 
 helm may in truth have been is alto- 
 gether unknown. After the Conquest 
 the manor was granted to the Earls 
 de Warreno, and a iishing-village 
 was established here, which seems 
 to have speedily attracted Flem- 
 ings from the opposite coast— better 
 fishermen than the descendants of 
 Bp. Wilfred's S. Saxons (see Selsey). 
 The fishing-village lay under the 
 clifl", and its inhaljitants— ;/«(/« as they 
 were called ^traded with their wares 
 to all the neighbouring inland towns. 
 On tlie top of the clitf was a small 
 colony of landsmen, between whom 
 and the jugs was no good feeling. 
 The village, like all the others along 
 this coast, suffered from French 
 attacks during a period of at least 
 three centuries. Early in the 17th 
 the sea began its encroachments ; 
 and the lower, or fishing town, all 
 but disapi^eared. From this and 
 other cartses Brigliton declined more 
 and more imtil a1)out 1750, when a 
 change in its fortune's commenced. 
 
 At this time Dr. linssell, of Lewes, 
 first drew attention to Brighton as a 
 bathing-place ; and soon after, fine 
 London ladies werepre vailed on to un- 
 
 dertake the perilous journey through 
 the wilds of Sussex, for the sake 
 of the bracing sea air and the pro- 
 menades on the Steyne, then open and 
 unbuilt ujioii. Mrs. Thrale was here 
 in 1770, accompanied by Dr. Johnson 
 and Fanny Burney— who records the 
 " loyal satisfaction " with which she 
 looked on tlie King's Head Inn — at 
 which Cliarles II. spent the night 
 before embarking at Shoreham (see 
 STioreliam, Etc. IG). " His black-wig- 
 ged jMajesty," she tells us, " has from 
 the time of the restoration been its 
 sign." (It still exists in West Street; 
 tlie original sign was The Georges.) 
 Houses increased, however, but slow- 
 ly, until the end of the century, when 
 tiie Prince of Wales established 
 liimself here, and built the first Pa- 
 vilion. Brigliton was first visited by 
 him in 17S2. Tlie Pavilion was com- 
 menced in 1784, and additions made 
 at intervals until 1817, when the 
 building was altogether changed ; 
 some parts pulled down ; and the 
 rest, with vast additions, converted 
 into the wonderful pile with which 
 all the world is acquainted. Under 
 this royal patronage, the reputation 
 of Brighton was efiectually esta- 
 blished. The pier was built ; houses 
 spread out in all directions, covering 
 the clitfs and the downs ; and be- 
 tween 1820 and 1830 the place was 
 converted from a comparatively quiet 
 village to the vast pleasm-e to^^^l 
 which it now is. The railroad has 
 since brought it within 2 hours of 
 London ; and there is no sign of 
 check to its rapidly increasing streets 
 and terraces. The liest squares and 
 liouses are : — on the W. Cliff, Re- 
 gent's Square, Brunswick Square 
 and Place, and Adelaide Place ; on 
 the E. Cliff, Kemp Town. East- 
 street is the place of business, and 
 there are some good shops m it and 
 on W. Clift; 
 
 The chief relic of Old Brighton is 
 tlie Church of St. Nicholas, about 
 which the tide of new building has
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 14. — rBrighton. 
 
 261 
 
 risen, hut which formerly stood on 
 liigh open groinid, a hmdraark for 
 the fishermen, as indeed it still is. 
 The building itself, now chiefly 
 Peip., was restored, or rather re- 
 built, in 1853, as a memorial of 
 the Duke of Wellington, who was 
 for some time a pupil of the Vicar 
 here, and accustomed to attend this 
 eh. The original Perji. screen has 
 been gilt and painted. The E. win- 
 dow, with its stained glass of the 
 miraculous draught, recalls Eubens' 
 famous picture in the chapel of the 
 Fishmonger.s' guild at Mechlin. 
 The ancient font has suffered from 
 no beautifyings Imt those of the emi- 
 nent churchwardens of 1745, who 
 considered that the addition of their 
 names on the base would improve 
 the general efiect. It is Norm., circ, 
 and sxirrounded by rude sculptures. 
 On one side is the liast Supper (re- 
 mark the unusual nimbus encircling 
 the Saviour's head, and tlie pallium 
 which he wears) ; the otlier subjects 
 have not been ascertained. 
 
 In the chantry S. of the chancel 
 is the so-called Wellington Memo- 
 rial, a richly decorated cross, about 
 18 ft. high. An inscription below 
 records the restoration of the ch. in 
 memory of the Great Duke. A scroll 
 winding round the shaft bears the 
 words Assaye — Torres Vedras — Vit- 
 toria — Waterloo. Within a canopied 
 niche at the top is a figure of St. 
 George. The design is by Cariientcr. 
 In the chm'chyard (not open to the 
 pu1)lic) are the monmnental stones of 
 Captain Tettersell, " through whose 
 prudence, valom*, and loyalty Charles 
 II. was faithfully preserved and con- 
 veyed to France, 1651 " (see Shore- 
 ham, Ete. 16); of Phoebe Hessell, 
 who, though of the gentler sex, fought 
 and was woimded at Fonteiioy, dying 
 at the age of 108 ; and of Mrs. Crouch, 
 the actress. The base of the church- 
 yard-cross also remains. 
 
 The 2 best modern churches are 
 St. Peter's, at the end of the Steyne, 
 built from a design by Sir Charles | 
 
 Barry, at a cost of 20,0007. : and St. 
 Faiits, in We«t-street, built by Mr. 
 Carpenter in 18-17. The porch has 
 medallion bas-reliefs from the life of 
 St. Paul. 
 
 The Steyne, in name at least, be- 
 longs, like St. Nicholas Church, to 
 Old Brighton. It was the rock 
 (stane) on which the fishermen dried 
 their nets ; and became the first 
 jjublic promenade when Brighton 
 rose into fashion ; the downs at that 
 time stretching up from it on either 
 side. On the completion of the 
 Pavilion, in front of which it lies, the 
 Prince obtained jiermission to rail in 
 a i^art of the Stcjiie. Other altera- 
 tions followed ; and in 1831 the j^re- 
 sent roads were cut through it. 
 
 In it is Chantry's statue of George 
 IV., the presiding genius of Brighton, 
 and a fountahi called The Victoria. 
 The Pavilion is the link between 
 Old and New Brighton. Although 
 Nash was the nominal architect, the 
 general conception is entirely due to 
 the Prince, whose Chinese sympathies 
 had been excited by the recent mis- 
 sion of Lord Amherst. It was occa- 
 sionally visited by William IV. and 
 liy Queen Victoria ; and after it liad 
 been finally abandoned as a royal 
 residence, was bought in 1850, by 
 the town of Brighton, for 53,0007. Its 
 apartments are now used on public 
 occasions of all kinds ; and are al- 
 ways to be seen (paying Is.). The 
 enormous stal)les, including an ex- 
 cellent riding-school, are (1857) 
 about to be converted into a kind 
 of winter-garden. "Will you do me 
 a favour?" writes Sir W. Scott to 
 Morritt, then, Feb. 1826, at Brighton. 
 " Set fire to the Chinese stables ; and 
 if it embrace the whole of the Pa- 
 vilion, it will rid me of a great eye- 
 sore." 
 
 Overlooking the Steyne (W.), and 
 adjoining the Pavilion, was, and still 
 exists, the house of Mrs. Fitzherbert. 
 
 The Chain Pier, essentially a sine- 
 cure, for Brighton has no harbour 
 and no packets, was completed in
 
 262 
 
 Route 14. — Devifs Dyh. 
 
 ^QCt. II. 
 
 1823, at a cost of 30,000?,, and was 
 the first constructed in England. It 
 suifered much from storms in 1824 
 and 1833 ; but has since been greatly 
 strengthened. It is one of the grand 
 Brighton promenades, scarcely less 
 frequented than the long Esj^lanade 
 connecting the clift's, which rise E. 
 and W. of the town. The space over 
 which the Pier extends was the site of 
 the original fishing-village, destroyed 
 by the encroachment of the sea. 
 
 From tlie Cliain Pier to Kemp 
 Town, a distance of nearly a mile, 
 the cliff is now protected by a sea- 
 wall, the cost of which was about 
 100,000/. 
 
 Kemp Town, at the end of East 
 Clifi; was built, 1821-30, by Thomas 
 Eeed Kemp, Esq. It contains a 
 crescent and square, with houses 
 equal in size to those of Belgrave 
 Square in London. A tunnel leads 
 from the gardens down to the beach, 
 whei-e there is a pleasant esplanade. 
 Behind Kemp Town are the Sussex 
 County Hosi)ital and a college for 
 orphan daughters of clergymen. 
 
 Almost the only spot where trees 
 are to be seen near Brighton is the 
 Queen s Park, a prettily laid out 
 garden in a narrow valley running 
 up from the East Clitf, within which 
 stand several villas and the Royal 
 German Spa, where artificial mineral 
 waters, prepared according to the 
 system of Dr. Struve of Dresden, are 
 administered to patients with as effi- 
 cacious results as could be obtained 
 from a visit to the real springs. 
 
 The great defect of Brighton, one 
 inseparable from so large a town, is 
 the difficulty a pedestrian finds in 
 getting quickly into the country. 
 The esplanade along the beach forms 
 a good walk ; but the cliffs are some 
 distance from tlie centre of the to\vn, 
 and the downs farther still ; in short, 
 Brighton is not the watering-place 
 for an " unclubbable " man, since it 
 affords no solitude except that of a 
 crowd. 
 
 Numerous excursions, however, of 
 
 great interest, are to be made from 
 Brighton. All the places in Sussex 
 mentioned in the former part of this 
 route, and in Etes. 15 and 16, may 
 be visited by railway ; and among 
 rides and drives are, the Devil's 
 Dyke, Preston, and Newhaven. 
 
 The Devil's Dyke, 5i m. N.W. (an 
 omnibus occasionally runs here from 
 Brighton during the season), is one of 
 the finest points of the do^vns, com- 
 mandhig grand views in all directions. 
 The sharp, stee^D declivity has all the 
 look of "a trench cut by the hands 
 of giant excavators ; ' and old Sussex 
 tradition has accordingly assigned 
 it to the Devil, or, as he is some- 
 times called in Sussex, the "poor 
 man." It was intended to pierce 
 quite through the downs ; and the 
 "poor man's " object in digging itwas, 
 to drown tlie churches of the Weald 
 by bringing in the sea on them. But 
 a neighbouring old woman, hearing 
 the work in progress, looked out of 
 her Avindow, hohling a candle in a 
 sieve. The "poor man" took it for 
 sunrise, and disapj^eared, leaving his 
 work half done. His foot-prints, 
 bmnt in the turf, are still shown on 
 the edge of the dyke. 
 
 On the lofty crest which this dyke 
 divides from the lower range of 
 downs is an oval camp with broad 
 cUtcli and enormous rampart, about 
 1 m. in circumference. Roman coins 
 have been found here — no proof of 
 course of the origin of the work, 
 which is probably British. The 
 view, over the Weald of Sussex on 
 one side, and toward the sea on the 
 other, is best seen by following the 
 line of the rampart. 
 
 The Church of Poijnings, below the 
 dyke, is early Perp. and of much in- 
 terest. Compare that of Alfriston, 
 near Lewes, whicli, although larger, 
 so much resem1>les tliis as to prove 
 it the work of the same arcliitect 
 (Husseij). E. of the ch-yard are some 
 traces of the Manor-house, the resi- 
 dence of the baronial family of Poy- 
 nings from the time of Henry II.
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 14. — Preston. 
 
 26^ 
 
 The down scenery liere •will amply 
 repay ^yandel■el•s. At the entrance 
 of a valley near Hove, considerably 
 nearer Bi'ighton, was a huge mass of 
 breccia, known as "gold-stone at 
 Hove," called Druidical, and possibly 
 sepulclu-al. (The names gold-rock — 
 guinea-rock — are given to some of the 
 sei^ulchral stones on Dartmoor.) It 
 was about 6 ft. high, and was a few 
 years since carefidly removed and 
 buried in a trench purposely dug 
 for it. Its " dull destroyer " should 
 have been laid by its side. Remains 
 of what has been called a Druidical 
 circle may still be traced at the 
 upper end of the valley ; and similar 
 masses of breccia are scattered here 
 and there about the downs. 
 
 Preston, 1^ m. deserves a visit, as 
 well for the quiet beauty of its situa- 
 tion as for its little ch., which is 
 entirely E. E. On the wall of the 
 nave, either side of the chancel arch, 
 are some very iuchstinct mural paint- 
 ings, in red and yellow ochre, repre- 
 senting on one side the murder of 
 Becket. All four Knights are present, 
 besides the Saxon monk Grim, who 
 extends his arm to shield the Aljp. 
 On tlie other side is St. Michael 
 with his scales. In the chancel is 
 the tomb of one of the Shirley family, 
 connected with, but not descended 
 from, the Shirleys of Wiston ; and in 
 the nave is the tombstone of " Francis 
 Cheynel, Doctor in Divinity, d. 1G65," 
 the fierce puritanical opponent of 
 Cliillingworth, whose grave even was 
 not safe from his violence. (See 
 Chichester, Rte. 16.) Douglas, the 
 author of the ' Nenia Britannica,' the 
 first book which drew attention to 
 the sepulchral wealth of ancient Kent 
 and Sussex, is buried in the church- 
 yard. 
 
 The excursion may be continued 
 from Preston to Hollingsbury Castle, 
 overlooking Stanmer Park. The 
 camp is a square of 5 acres, and com- 
 manded the passes from the coast 
 inland. About 3 m. distant from 
 
 it on either side are the camps on 
 Ditchling Beacon (see ante) and White 
 Hawk Hill — the last a triple earth- 
 work, adjoining the Brighton race- 
 coin-se. 
 
 The drive to Newhaven, 7 m., by 
 Eottingdean, between the sea and 
 the downs, which here stretch close 
 down upon it, is a very pleasant one. 
 To the geologist, the clifts between 
 Kemp Town and Eottingdean are 
 of considerable interest, since they 
 contain occasional masses of cal- 
 careous strata, in which are found 
 niuuerous bones and teeth of the 
 fossil elephant, floated, it has been 
 suggested, to the Sussex coast by 
 icebergs, durhig extensive changes 
 which took place in the geological 
 period immediately antecedent to 
 the present. Similar relics are found 
 throughout all the valleys of the 
 S.E. and E. of England that open to 
 the sea. Very large ammonites are 
 sometimes found in the chalk, ex- 
 posed at low water, along the shore 
 between Kemp Town and Eotting- 
 dean, besides fossil sponges of much 
 beauty. "Strombolo" or "Strom- 
 balleu ■' (Stream-halls) is the pure 
 Flemish name given here to pieces 
 of black bitumen charged with 
 sulphur and salt, and found along 
 the coast. It is one of the many in- 
 chcations of an early Flemish colony 
 of fishers. Ovingdean Church, 5 m., 
 contains Norm, and E. E. portions. 
 The Manor-house is said, but inac- 
 cm'ately, to have afi'orded shelter to 
 Charles II. before his departure from 
 Shoreham. Rottingdean, nearer the 
 sea, and 4 m. from Brighton, has an E. 
 E. Church, in tlie walls of which por- 
 tions of columns, &c., are noticeable ; 
 indicating the existence of an earlier, 
 and probably Saxon, building. Early 
 in the reign of Eichard II. theFrench, 
 after plundering numerous • other 
 places on the S. coast, lauded here, 
 with the intention of sacking Lewes 
 and its rich priory. But the Prior, 
 John de Cariloco, assembled his fol-
 
 264 
 
 Route 14. — Tltinfield. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 lowersi, and witli some neiglilioiu-ing 
 Knights proceeded to the downs 
 above Rottingdean. Here a "sore 
 scrymmysche " took phice, in which 
 the Prior was defeated and made 
 prisoner : the enemy, liowever, retired 
 withont venturing farther inland. 
 About 2 m. N. of Rottingdean is tlie 
 little liamlet of Balsdenn, lying quite 
 among the downs. A Imildiiig called 
 the "Chapel '' here, but now used as 
 a stable, is apparently Dec. It has 
 the ancient roof, thatched without. 
 The termination dean, frequent in 
 this neighbourhood, indicates a de- 
 pression among the downs, not so 
 profound as the Coombe, which occurs 
 more frequently on the Northern 
 side. For Newhaven and-its neigh- 
 bourhood, see Rte. 15, Exc. from 
 Lewes. 
 
 For some general notices of the 
 South Downs, which no lover of 
 picturesque scenery should leave 
 Brighton without an attempt to ex- 
 plore, see Introduction (Sussex), and 
 Lewes (post). 
 
 A very interesting return tour 
 from Brighton to London may ))e 
 made from Arundel (accessible from 
 Brighton by rail), by Farham, Big- 
 nor, with its Roman villa, and Pet- 
 worth, to the Godalmiug Station. 
 This line has no pul die conveyances : 
 but it embraces some of the most 
 interesting places in Sussex, and 
 the down scenery al»out Bignor is 
 of the finest kind, diftering gi'eatly 
 from that in the neiglibourhood of 
 Brighton. The tour should be made 
 to emln-ace two or three days ; and 
 the resting-jDlaces may be Storring- 
 ton, near Parham, where is a toler- 
 able country inn : and Petwurth, 
 where is a much better one. From 
 Petworth a coach runs to Godalming. 
 
 Three times a week a coach 
 leaves Brighton forHor.sham, passing 
 through some interesting country. 
 
 It first proceeds under the downs 
 
 by the Devil's Dyke and Poynings. 
 rt. of the main road, and 7 m. from 
 Brighton, is Newtiniber. The ch. 
 contains same fragments of stained 
 glass. Newtlmher Place (Lady Gor- 
 don) is a brick mansion of some au- 
 tii|iuty, and surrounded by a moat. 
 
 The Manor of Alhourne, lying off 
 the road 2 m. N., was long the pro- 
 perty of the family of Juxon. Al- 
 hourne Place (the Misses Long) is 
 traditionally said to have been built 
 by the abp. who attended King 
 Charles on the scaftbld. He was 
 himself ])orn at Chichester. 
 
 Henfield 3 m. is a j^icturesque vil- 
 lage on an eminence, about and in 
 which the tourist will find some good 
 siJecimens of the old Sussex cottages, 
 generally built of dark-red bricks, 
 witli massive chimney shafts. The 
 ch. is Perp., and contains a remark- 
 aljle inscription for Meneleb Rains- 
 ford, d. 1627, aged 9. 
 
 " Great .Jove has lost his Ganymede, I know, 
 Wliich made him seek another here below — 
 And finding none — not one lilce unto this — 
 Hath ta'en him hence unto eternal bliss." 
 
 " A child on earth" runs the con- 
 cluding line "is now a saint in 
 lieaven." The admirer of monastic 
 legends will search the pages of 
 Surius and Ribadeneyra in vain for 
 a companion to this. 
 
 At Shermauhury 2 m. stands the 
 gateway (worth notice) of Ewhurst, 
 an old mansion of the Peverels. It 
 is early Edwardian. Sliennanhury 
 Place (S. Cliallen, Esq.) stands on 
 the site of the Elizabethan house of 
 the Comber family. 
 
 West Grinstead Church, 2 m., has 
 some Norm, portions, and a wooden 
 porch (Dec.) well deserving atten- 
 tion. In the Burrell chantry are two 
 interesting Brasses: Philippa Lady 
 Halsham (d. 13S5), one of the heir- 
 esses of David de Strabolge, E. of 
 Atholc ; and Hugo Halsham and his 
 wife, 1411. The Bijshrach monu- 
 ment for Wm. Poulett and his wife,
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 14. — Knepp Castle. 
 
 265 
 
 need not be greatly admired. Tlie 
 sfircojjhagus of Sir AVm. Burr ell, d. 
 1796, whose collections for the hist. 
 of Sussex (now in the Brit. Mus.) 
 have greatly aided his successors, is 
 by Flaxman. 
 
 The present house of Wed Grin- 
 dead (W. W. Burrell, Esq.), of nonde- 
 script Gothic, dates from 180G, when 
 it was erected by Walter Burrell, Esq. 
 It succeeded an ancient mansion, long 
 tlie property of the Caryls, at which 
 Pope was a frequent visitor. The 
 Park is finely wooded, and commands 
 extensive views. A grand old oak is 
 pointed out in it, under which, says 
 tradition, Pope delighted to sit ; and 
 whose branches may have heard the 
 first murmured music of the ' Rape 
 of the Lock,' which the poet com- 
 posed at the suggestion of his 
 host : — 
 
 " This verse to Carj'l, muse, is due ! 
 This, e'en Belinda may vouclisafe to view." 
 
 Abortt 1 m. W. rises the solitary 
 fragment of Knepp Castle (Cncep. 
 A.-S., a hillock), an ancient hunting- 
 castle of the great Braose family : 
 from which they had the couunand 
 of all the adjoining forest district, 
 with its "store of harts." A great 
 establishment of men and dogs was 
 kept hero by them during the reign 
 of John. The remaining wall is part 
 of the keep tower, and shows Norm. 
 window and door arches. Tlie manor 
 has always formed a part of the De 
 Braose Honom- of Bramber. 
 
 J m. from the rum is the modern 
 castle of Knepjp (Sir C. M. Burrell), 
 built by its present owner, whose 
 family became proprietors of Knc'i^p 
 toward the end of the last century. 
 The house (which is not generally 
 shown) contains an important_gallery 
 of historical jjortraits ; the most m- 
 teresting being eight by Holbein : — 
 
 1. Anne of Cleves (engraved in 
 Harding) ; 2. Cromwell, Earl of 
 Essex (engraved in Harding) ; 3. 
 Edward Stafibrd, Duke of Bucking- 
 ham (engraved by Hollar) ; 4. Sir 
 
 Henry Guldeford (engraved by Hol- 
 lar) ; 5. Lady Guldeford (Hollar) ; 
 G. Sir Picliard Rich, Chancellor to 
 Edward VI. ; 7. Egidius, the "Sa- 
 vant " employed by Francis I. to 
 visit the East ; and, 8. an miknown 
 female portrait. In a lozenge are 
 these arms — three lions gules, cro-\vned 
 or. 
 
 Others of scarcely less interest are 
 — Sir Rol)ert Cotton ( Vansomer) ; this 
 portrait was engraved by Vertue for 
 the Society of Antiquaries. Wm. 
 Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, Chancel- 
 lor to James I. ( Vansomer^. Loyeus, 
 Chancellor of Brabant {Philip de 
 Champagne). Cornelius Van Tromp, 
 (Frank Hals). A fidl- length of 
 Henrietta Maria ( Vandyke). Charles 
 II. (Sir Peter Lelij). 
 
 The collection contams other pic- 
 tiues worthy of notice ; but the por- 
 traits are by far the most interesting 
 and important. The greater part of 
 these, including the six first Holbeins, 
 were collected by Sir Wm. Bm-rell, 
 and are all noticed in Granger. 
 The first two were i^urchased at 
 Barrett's sale, the best three at that 
 of the Comitess Dowager of Statford. 
 
 The park is pleasant ; and the 
 whole scenery about Knepp deserves 
 exploration. 
 
 The Cliurch of Shipley, in which 
 parish Knepp lies, is Norm, and has 
 a central tower. It was granted to 
 the Knights Templars at the begin- 
 ning of the 12th century. The oak 
 ceiling is flat, and ha§ been painted. 
 In the chancel is the altar tomb with 
 efiigy of Sir Thomas Caryl, d. 1616, 
 which has been restored by Carew. 
 The ch. chest contains a Bj'zan- 
 tine (?) reliquary of wood, enamelled 
 and gilt ; the subjects being the cru- 
 cifixion, with angels. 
 
 3 m. N. of West Grinstead is Cow- 
 fold. The ch. is Perp. with an 
 earlier chancel, and in it is the mag- 
 nificent Brass of Thomas Nelond, 
 Prior of Lewes, d. 1433. The Vir- 
 gin and Child are figiu-ed above his 
 head ; and on either side, St. Pancras,
 
 206 
 
 JRoute 15. — London to Hastings. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 the patron of hia priory, and St. 
 Thomas of Canterbury. The inscrip- 
 tion seems to have been partly bor- 
 rowed from that on Gundrada's tomb 
 at Lewes. 
 
 From Shipley to Horsham, G ni., 
 the road oflfers nothing to delay the 
 tourist. For Horsham and its neigh- 
 bourhood see Rte. 18. 
 
 ROUTE 15. 
 
 LONDON, BY LEWES, TO HASTINGS. 
 
 {London, Brighton, ami S. Coast Rail- 
 way — Lomlon Bridge Station.) 
 
 For the route from London to 
 Haywards Heath, see Rte. 14 
 (London to Brighton). 
 
 At 37 m. from London, Haywards 
 Heath, a line branches to Lewes, 
 where it joins the Hastings line 
 coming from Brighton. There is a 
 tolerable inn (Bennett's) close to 
 the Hayward's Heath Station, where 
 carriages may be hired. 
 
 After leaving Hayward's Heath 
 the South Downs are full in view, 
 rt., nearly the whole way to Lewes. 
 From 
 
 47 m. Cook's Bridge, the interme- 
 diate station, Street and Plumpton 
 (see Ete. 14) may be visited; but 
 
 the latter, at least, will be more 
 easily reached from the Hassock's 
 Gate Station on the Brighton line. 
 
 3 m. beyond Cook's Bridge the 
 railway, passing through a tunnel 
 under the town and castle, reaches 
 the general terminus at 
 
 50 m. Lewes, perhaps the most pic- 
 turesquely situated town in the S. of 
 England. (Pop. 9821. J?ms;_ the 
 Star, good and old fashioned, with a 
 grand old staircase of carved oak, 
 brought here from Slaugham Place, 
 the ancient seat of the Coverts : the 
 cellar is antique and vaulted, and is 
 said to have served as a prison for 
 many of the Marian martyrs, some of 
 whom were burnt in the street front- 
 ing the house. Other inns are — the 
 ■White Hart, the Bear, and the Crown.) 
 
 Tlie town of Lewes — perhaps from 
 Hliew (Sax.), a hill (Lowes is the 
 old Sussex pronunciation : corap. the 
 Galloway " Loch of the Lowes") — 
 which has grown up around the 
 ancient castle and priory, covers the 
 side of a steep hill in the very heart 
 of the South Downs, and at a point 
 where the surrounding heights are 
 unusually striking and elevated. 
 The views from the castle and from 
 the neighbom-ing hills will give the 
 best notion of its po.sition, which to 
 some extent resembles that of Tot- 
 ness in Devonshire, equally castle- 
 crowned. Lewes however can 
 boast of no bright river like the 
 Dart. The Ouse, whicli flows 
 through the town, is sulKciently 
 muddy ; although St. Richard of 
 Chichester is recorded to liave had 
 " good luck in his fisliing" from the 
 bridge, and to have sent the results 
 as a present to the neighbouring 
 Prior of St. Pancras. The view 
 from the High Street, looking back 
 into the face of the opposite liill, 
 especially under certain effects of 
 morning mist and sunshine, is very 
 peculiar and un-English. Those 
 from tlie suburbs of Southover and 
 Cliffe, the latter especially, are 
 scarcely less remarkable.
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 15. — Lewes — Castle. 
 
 267 
 
 The main points of interest in the 
 town itself are the Castle, the Friorij, 
 and some of the Churches. The 
 liistory of the town is in fact that of 
 the fonner two. 
 
 An excellent Handbook for 
 Lewes has been published by Mr. M. 
 A. Lower — the well-known author 
 of the Essays on English siirnamcs 
 — who resides in the town, and 
 whose researches have contributed 
 not a little toward the illustration 
 of the history and antiiiuities of 
 his native county. We have been 
 greatly indebted to his Handbook, 
 and all who are desirous of more 
 ample information than can here be 
 supplied should have recourse to its 
 pages. 
 
 British names of localities, which 
 abound in the neigldjourliood of 
 Lewes, prove the existence of a 
 Celtic settlement here. Roman 
 coins and remains have also been 
 found. Lewes had two mints 
 during the reign of Athelstane ; and 
 some specimens of its coinage are in 
 the possession of Mr. Ade of Slilton 
 Court, at which place they were 
 found. After the Conquest, Lewes was 
 granted to William Earl of Warrene, 
 whose Countess, Gimdrada, was the 
 daughter of William I. The town had 
 become important during the Saxon 
 period ; and its castle either already 
 existed, or was now built by 
 William de Warrene, who in con- 
 junction with his wife afterwards 
 built and endowed the priory of St. 
 Pancras in the meadows below. Tlie 
 castle continued in the hands of the 
 Warrenes until the extinction of 
 that great family in the 14tli cent., 
 when, with the barony, it passed 
 to the Fitzalans of Arundel. Dur- 
 -ing the Warrene period occurred 
 the battle of Lewes (May, 12CA). 
 (See post.) Lewes was more tlian 
 once disturbed by French attacks on 
 the coast, but was never itself pil- 
 laged. The town witnessed sundry 
 autos da fe' during the reign of 
 Mary; and the nonconformists 
 
 troubled it much after the Restora- 
 tion. From that time no marked 
 events have occurred to ruffle its 
 tranquillity. 
 
 The Castle, whose "worm-eaten 
 hold of ragged stone " towers 
 grandly above the town in all dis- 
 tant views, is approached from the 
 High Street by a turning close 
 beiow St. Michael's Chm-ch. The 
 gate-house, with battlements and 
 machicolations, is early Edwardian, 
 and, like all the existing remains, 
 belongs to the period of the De 
 Warrenes. " There are no loops 
 for the raising of the drawbridge, 
 but the massive hinges of the gates 
 i-emain, as also the grooves for a 
 double portcullis." (M. A. Lower.) 
 The original Norm, gateway, with 
 plain semicircular arch, remains close 
 witliin, and is in all probabihty a 
 fragment of the work of the first 
 Earl William. The enclosure within 
 this outer wall, forming the outer 
 ballium, or base court, was in shape 
 an irregular oval. At each extre- 
 mity is an artificial mound; thus 
 giving Lewes Castle the very unusual 
 peculiarity o'f two keeps. The space 
 between the centres of the two 
 mounds measures nearly 800 feet. 
 One of these is occuijied liy the 
 remains of the existing keep. On 
 the other, called the Brack mount, 
 there are traces of foundations which 
 prove tliat it was once crowned by a 
 similar mass of towers. The keep is 
 reached by a winding ascent close 
 witliin the gatehouse. Of its four 
 octagonal towers only two remain, 
 clustered with ivy and liart's-tongue, 
 and rising from a thicket of ash-trees 
 winch covers the base of the moimd. 
 These towers are perhaps earHer than 
 the gateway, l;>ut date from a period 
 long after tlie Conquest, and are the 
 work of one of tlie later De War- 
 renes. They can only be visited 
 by strangers after the payment of a 
 sixpenny fee, since the pirincipal 
 tower has been given iip to the 
 Sussex Archseological Society, whose
 
 268 
 
 Boute 15. — Lewes — Prioi^. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 mriseum is arranged in its several 
 stories. Tliis contains a few local 
 remains of interest — celts and pottery 
 from the barrows which dot the sur- 
 face of the Downs, some relics of the 
 Snssex iron-works, and a collection 
 of seals of tlie Cinque Ports and their 
 members. In a room above are ar- 
 ranged rubbings from some of the 
 finest Sussex brasses, and fragments 
 of carved stones from the Priory ruins. 
 But more striking than anything in 
 the Society's museiun is the view 
 from tlie leads of the tower. It ex- 
 tends N. over the forest-like coiuitry 
 of the Weald as far as Crowborough, 
 and the still more distant line of 
 the Surrey hills. S. is seen South- 
 over, with the winding Ousc, and the 
 gleam of the sea at Newhaven ; and, 
 close below, the town itself, with its 
 trees and gardens, lies scattered 
 between the steep hills that guard 
 it ; — Mount Harry, the scene of the 
 great battle, on one side, and on the 
 other Clitfe Hill and the narrow, 
 deeply shadowed Coombe. The 
 general position of tlie town is well 
 seen here. Although quite sur- 
 rounded by hills, it nevertheless 
 stands at a point where the Ouse, 
 once a broad estuary as high as 
 Lewes, pierces them ; wliilst under 
 Firle beacon, a valley (now traversed 
 by the railway) opens toward tlie 
 coast E. Lewes Castle therefore, like 
 Bramber and Arundel, guarded one 
 of the Sussex highways to and from 
 Normandy. 
 
 Scarcely less interesting tlian the 
 Castle, in spite of its scanty remains, 
 is tlie VGnemhle Priori/ of St. Pancras. 
 at the foot of the liill. In true old- 
 worlil fasliioii, the monk and tlie 
 baron divided the town between 
 tliem. The ruins are in private 
 hands, and are not generally acces- 
 sible to strangers, but for all ordinary 
 purposes a sufficiently good view may 
 be obtained from the mound near the 
 groimds of the cricket club, which 
 closely overhangs them. Tlie railway 
 passes directly over the site of the 
 
 great church of the Priory; and whilst 
 its interference with the ruins is to be 
 regretted, the necessary excavations 
 nevertheless gave rise to one of the 
 most interesting of recent archajolo- 
 gical discoveries — that of the coffins 
 and remains of "William de Warrene, 
 the first Norm. Earl, and Gundrada 
 his wife, daughter of the Conqueror, 
 the builders of Lewes Castle, and 
 the founders of the Priory. 
 
 A small wooden chapel, dedicated 
 to St. Pancras (the first saint to 
 whom Augustine dedicated a church 
 after his arrival in England— see 
 Canterbury, Rte. 8), existed on tliis 
 spot before the Conquest. At Abp. 
 Lanfrauc's suggestion, William and 
 Gundrada raised tlieir priory liere, 
 and filled it with Cluniac monies ; 
 wliich order had received the Earl 
 and Countess at Clugny, when on 
 their way to Italy, with unusual hos- 
 pitality. They were the first Clu- 
 niacs who were established in Eng- 
 land, and their priory continued the 
 only one in tlie island for the next 
 150 years. Their introduction very 
 probably formed part of Lanfranc's 
 plan for the reform of the Saxon 
 monasteries. "Intidit ecclesiis Au- 
 glorum balsama morum," runs the 
 verse on Gundrada's tombstone. 
 Unlike the disciples of Benedict or of 
 Bernard, the Cluniacs (themselves 
 a lu'aucli of the Benedictines) pre- 
 ferred a i^opidous neighbourhood, 
 and were distinguished by the 
 wealth of their churches and the 
 splendour of their services. The 
 election of the prior of Lewes was 
 always subject to the apj^roval of tlie 
 Abbot of Chiguy, of wJiicli famous 
 house Lewes was one of the "five 
 chief daughters;" and in the great 
 councils of the order the prior took 
 the second i)lace. The close vicinity 
 of the coast, and tlie foreign con- 
 nexion always kept up by the monks, 
 caused them to be regarded with 
 some distrust during tlie later 
 French wars ; and Edward III. (Oct. 
 4, 1338) directs the Bp. of Chichester
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 15. — Leioes — Priory. 
 
 269 
 
 to remove the whole of the brethren 
 without delay to the Cliimac houses 
 further from the sea. For this 
 distrust however there was not 
 always reason. Prior John de 
 Cariloco himself took part in a 
 "sore scrimmyshe " with the French 
 at Kottingdean in 1377, and was 
 made prisoner. The Priory was 
 large and stately. It was occu- 
 pied the night before the battle of 
 Lewes by Henry III. and his fol- 
 lowers, who are said to have made 
 even the great church a scene of such 
 .sacrilegious revelry as called down 
 the vengeance of tlieir defeat on the 
 following day. After the battle 
 Prince Edward took refuge here ; 
 and the Priory was fired by the 
 barons, but the flames were extin- 
 guished before great harm had been 
 done. At the dissolution the build- 
 ings were entirely dismantled, the 
 vaults and pillars " plucked down" 
 (so Portinari wrote to Cromwell), and 
 the land sold. The site was at first 
 granted to Cromwell ; after revert- 
 ing to the Cro\vn it became the pro- 
 perty of Thomas Sackville Earl of 
 Dorset ; and has since passed through 
 many hands. In this Priory v.as 
 educated Ednumd Dudley, the fa- 
 vourite of Henry VII., who, in 
 Lord Bacon's words, "took toll of 
 his master's grist," and was beheaded 
 on Tower Hill, together with his col- 
 league Empson. Dudley's father is 
 said to have been the carpenter of 
 St. Pancras. 
 
 The existing remains are very 
 scant}', and tlieir appropriation un- 
 certain. The space enclosed be- 
 tween two long walls, under which 
 a stream of water flows, has been 
 called the monastic kitchen, but in 
 all probability had a less honourable 
 destination. There are some frag- 
 ments of late Norm, wall, and of a 
 wiiiding stair, on which, says an 
 edifying tradition (unrecognised l)y 
 Mr. Froude), Hemy VIII. mur- 
 dered one of his wives. The pigeon- 
 house, which stood S.W. of the 
 
 present ruins, was taken down about 
 50 years since. " It was cruciform, 
 and equalled in magnitude many a 
 parish church." There were 3228 
 pigeon-holes. Traces of tlie monas- 
 tic fish-ponds may still be seen 
 beyond the enclosure, S. But per- 
 haps tlie most interesting fragment 
 is the so-called " Lantern " of the 
 Priory, standing farther back than 
 the great mass of the ruins, in the 
 garden of the proprietor. It is a 
 round building, vnidergrouud, quite 
 dark, and entered through a narrow 
 passage of some length, from what 
 was originally a vaulted crj-jjt (now 
 covered by the railway). The Lan- 
 tern itself, there seems to be no 
 doubt, was the prison of the monas- 
 tery, in which the refractoiy monk 
 was secluded — sometimes in chains ; 
 (see Ducange, s. v. 'Laterna;' and 
 tlie Cluniac statutes of Peter the 
 Venerable).   — Sussex Archaeological 
 Coll. There is a similar recess, 
 called Isaac's Hole, at Michelham 
 Priory, near Hailsliam. 
 
 The artificial momid in the cricket- 
 ground was connected with the 
 Prior}', and may very joossibly have 
 served as the base for a Calvary, a 
 necessary adjunct to most Benedic- 
 tine monasteries. The hollow near 
 which it stands — called the "Drip- 
 ping-pan " — was perhaps originally a 
 garden. 
 
 The great cliiuvli of the Priory, 
 abandoned at the dissolution, con- 
 tained the stately tombs of numerous 
 Do Warrenes, Clares, De Veres, St. 
 Johns, and Fitzalans. In Oct. 1845 
 the excavations for the line of the 
 railway led the workmen straight 
 across the site of the ancient chapter- 
 house, and through a part of the 
 church itself. The chapterhouse of 
 a monastic churcli was a not un- 
 usual place of interment for persons 
 of especial distinction ; and liere, 
 about 2 feet Ijelow the surface, 
 were discovered the cofiins of the 
 f(3unders, William De Warrene and 
 Gundrada, now preserved in South- 
 
 o
 
 270 
 
 Route 15. — Lewes — Southover Church. 
 
 Sect. IL 
 
 over Clmrcli (see post). Other 
 remains, but of far less interest, were 
 also found here ; and a few feet E. of 
 the ch. a circular pit was opened, 10 
 ft. in diam. and 18 ft. deep, filled to 
 about half its depth with human 
 remains. Many luindred bodies 
 must have been flung into this jiit, 
 the contents of which infected the 
 air 80 terribly, that even the not very 
 delicate senses of the railway exca- 
 vators were overpowered. It seems 
 doubtful whether this wholesale in- 
 terment was the result of the great 
 battle of Lewes, or of the fearful 
 "black death" of the 14th cent., 
 which is said to have fallen with 
 especial severity on the monks and 
 clergy. 
 
 From the Priory the visitor 
 should proceed at once to Southover 
 Cliurch, close beyond, in which the 
 De Warrene relics are reposing. 
 Part of the nave arches are early 
 Norm. Tlie cliancel is Peip., and 
 originally extended much farther E. 
 No part of the building, however, is 
 so interesting as the little Norm, 
 chapel, erected by subscription in 
 1847 to contain the bones of Gun- 
 drada and her husband. The de- 
 signs were made by a local archi- 
 tect, to whom they are highly cre- 
 ditalde. The material throughout 
 is Caen stone. In the stained win- 
 dows are small figures of William and 
 Gundrada, and of St. Pancras, 
 patron of the priory. The walls are 
 arcaded ; and on the floor-tiling 
 appear the arms of De Warrene, and 
 of some succeeding barons of Lewes. 
 Within two deeply recessed arches 
 in the S. wall are placed tlie leaden 
 coffins of Earl William and his Coun- 
 tess. " The lids do not appear to have 
 been soldered or otherwise fastened 
 to the coffins, but merely flanged over 
 the edges. The ornamentation of 
 both is very singular, though simple. 
 Tlie plates composing them are 
 evidently cast. A cord of loose 
 texture seems to have been im- 
 pressed in the sand at regular inter- 
 
 vals, and then crossed in the opposite 
 direction, so as to produce on the 
 plates a lozengy or network pattern, 
 in relievo, with interstices aver- 
 aging 5 in. by 3. It is worthy of 
 remark that our phmibers, to this 
 day, ornament their coffins with a 
 similar pattern slightly incised in 
 the lead." (ill. A. Lower.) On the 
 upper end of the two coffins, respec- 
 tively, are the words " Gundrada " 
 and "Willelm." The length of 
 William's coffin is 2 ft. 11 in., of 
 Gundrada's 2 ft. 9 in. They are not 
 of course those in which the Earl 
 and Countess were originally l)uried, 
 since they are not of sufficient size ; 
 and it is suggested that at some 
 period not very remote from their 
 decease the bodies of the founders 
 were exliumed, and afterwards de- 
 posited in tlieir present coffins, be- 
 neath the floor of the chapter- 
 liouse. From measurements of Earl 
 William's bones, he appears to have 
 been more than 6 ft. high. The 
 teetli were perfect. 
 
 The ancient tombstone of Gun- 
 drada, which occr;pics the centre of 
 the chai:>el floor, is certainly of 
 tlie same date as the leaden cists 
 above, since the Norman characters 
 on both are precisely similar. Its 
 " chevrefeuille " ornament, and its 
 leopard-heads, are also indications 
 of its early date. The histoiy of 
 this stone is remarkable. After the 
 demolition of the priory it was seized 
 by a Mr. Sliiudey, of Isfield, near 
 Lewes, who, being of an economical 
 character, converted it into a portion 
 of his own tomb. From this office it 
 was rescued by Sir William Burrell, 
 about 1775, and placed in Southover 
 Cliurch, as the nearest spot to its 
 original loosition in the Priory. 
 After a lapse of nearly 300 years, 
 tlie tombstone and the relics which 
 once slept beneath it are reunit- 
 ed ; and althougli the church which 
 William and Gundrada so riclily 
 endowed and " thought it should 
 have canopied their bones till
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 15. — Lewes — ;S'^. MicliaeVs. 
 
 271 
 
 Domesday," has altogetlier disap- 
 peared, their remains are nevertlie- 
 less sheltered by consecrated walls, 
 and their memoiy is still fragrant 
 mthin their ancient town of Lewes. 
 The strildng inscription on Gun- 
 drada's tombstone rims as follows; 
 where it is imperfect, the stone luis 
 been broken :— 
 
 " Stirps Gundrada ducum, dccus evi, nobile 
 
 germen 
 lutulit ecclesiis Anglorum balsama morum. 
 
 Martir 
 
 Martha fuit miseris ; fuit ex pietate Maria. 
 Pars obiit Jlartbe ; superest pars magna 
 
 Marie. 
 O pie Pancrati, testis pietatis et equi 
 Te tacit heredem ; tu, Clemens, susoipe Ma- 
 
 trem. 
 Sexta Kalendarum Junii, lux obvia, camis 
 Fregit alabastnim." 
 
 The words "testis pietatis et 
 equi " refer to the legend of St. 
 Pancras, at whose tomb all false 
 swearers were citlier possessed by evil 
 spirits, or fell dead on the pavement. 
 The allusion to Martha and Mary is 
 repeated, witli for less propriety, on 
 the superb brass of Thomas Nelond, 
 prior of Lewes, in Cowfold Church. 
 " Mundi Martha fuit, sed Xto. mente 
 Maria." 
 
 Tlie efhgy in tlie N. wall recess 
 was also found during the excava- 
 tions at the priory. It is temp. 
 Hen. III. ; and from some traces of 
 the Braose arms on the siUToat it 
 lias been conjectured to represent 
 John de Braose, Lord of Brumber 
 (d. 1232). The ring-mail has been 
 gilt. 
 
 The great gate of the priory stood 
 near the E. end of Southover 
 Chui'ch. It was removed in 1832. 
 The side portal, which adjoined it, 
 was then placed at the end of 
 Soiithover Crescent, where it now 
 remains. Tlie ancient house nearly 
 opposite the ch. is said to have been 
 for some time the residence of Anne 
 of Cleves ; who, together with 
 Henry VIII. and Cromwell, occupies 
 a conspicuous place in Sussex tradi- 
 tion. 
 
 Of the rcmaimng cliurches in 
 
 Lewes, the most interesting are Si. 
 Anne's, at the top of the hill — very 
 good Trans.-Norm. with an early font ; 
 — this churcli has been lately re- 
 stored : and St. Michaels, near the 
 projecting clock in the High Street, 
 mth a low circular tower. Hero 
 are two Brasses — John Braydforde, 
 rector, 1457; and an unknown knight, 
 about 1400. Against tlie wall is a 
 monument for Sir Nicholas Pelham, 
 d. 1559, who, with his wife and ten 
 children, kneels before a lectern. 
 The inscription runs^ 
 
 " His valour's proofe, bis manlie vertue's 
 
 prayse. 
 Cannot be marsliall'd in this narrow roome ; 
 His brave exploit in great king Henry's 
 
 dayes 
 Among the worthy hath a worthier tonibe : 
 What time the French sought to have sackt 
 
 Sea-Foord 
 This Pelham did repel 'cjd back aboord." 
 
 The helmet suspended above may 
 have been tlie actual one worn by 
 tills valiant Pelham during the 
 skirmish, which occurred in 1545. 
 The Church of St. John sub Castro 
 is modern ; but stands on the site of 
 a vciy ancient ch., of which the arch 
 of one doorway, formerly in the S. 
 wall, has been jireserved, and re- 
 placed in the present building. 
 There is also preserved an inscrijition 
 in two semicircular lines, which rims 
 tlius :— 
 
 " Clauditur hie miles, Danorum regia proles ; 
 Mangtius nomen ei.tnangniu nota progeniei ; 
 Deponens Jlangnum, se moribus induit 
 
 ugniim 
 Prepcte pro vita, fit parvulus arnacorita." 
 
 Of the Magnus thus recorded 
 nothing is known, though tradition 
 asserts that he was made prisoner in 
 a battle with the Danes close to the 
 town. The letters are apparently 
 of the 14tli cent. The ehurchyaid 
 occupies the site of a very small 
 Roman camp, of which the vallum 
 is still traceable. In it is the tomb 
 of Thomas Blunt, barber, of Lewes 
 (d. IGll), who gave the town con- 
 stables a silver gilt cup, still used by 
 
 2
 
 272 
 
 Route 15. — Lewes — Neighbourliood. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 their successors; his epitaph ac- 
 cordingly oonchuling — 
 
 " Oona dedit, donisq. drttis, datur ipse scpul- 
 cliro : 
 Dona dedit ; dando celestia dona rccepit." 
 
 In the Connhj Hall half way ilown 
 the High Street, is a good picture 
 by Northcote, formerly in the 
 Shakspeare gallery, and a portrait 
 of General Elliot, the hero of Gib- 
 raltar. 
 
 Lewes was the birthplace of Dr. 
 Mantell the geologist ; whose dis- 
 coveries throughout this chalk dis- 
 trict, as well as in the Weald, form 
 prominent landmarks in the history 
 of the science for which he did so 
 much. The literary reputation of 
 the towna is at present sustained by 
 Mr. Lower of St. Anne's House, 
 author of many well-known works, 
 and whose valuable local researches 
 have already been noticed. 
 
 The toallis in the neighbourhood 
 of Lewes are almost endless ; since 
 the downs, with their perfect frec- 
 spruigy turf, open at 
 the town. The visitor 
 climb the Cliffe Hill, 
 the town, a fine view of 
 
 dom and 
 once from 
 may first 
 fronting 
 
 which is obtained from it : the 
 houses struggling up the hill-side, 
 with theii- 'red roofs glistening 
 among the trees, and the grand old 
 castle overtowering them. Beyond 
 rises Mount Harry, the scene of the 
 battle; and the Weald, with the 
 Ouse winding through it, stretches 
 away N. Close below, Cliffe, one of 
 the suburbs of Lewes, extends its 
 long street under the steep escai-p- 
 ment of the chalk, a situation of 
 .some danger. In Dec. ISoG, a vast 
 mass of drifted snow slipped from 
 the hill, and entirely desti-oyed a 
 range of cottages on which it fell. 
 Eight persons perished in the ruins. 
 Cliffe inn may be; climbed at its 
 soTithern extremity, and the town 
 may be regained througli the Ccxiinhe, 
 one of the lions of Lewes, wliich 
 opens at the farther end. This is 
 
 one of tliose deep hollows occur- 
 ring throughout the chalk districts, 
 which the sun only touches for a 
 short time even at the season of 
 "St. Barnaby bright," and whose 
 steep sides are not to be descended 
 without much care and caution. 
 The green winding level at the 
 bottom, looking iioia above like a 
 procession path for the hill fairies, 
 will bring the visitor back to the 
 town. " By aid of the numerous 
 chaUc-pits worked at the tenuination 
 of the Coombe, we discover that the 
 ravine coincides precisely with a 
 line of fault, on one side of which 
 the chaUv with flints appears at the 
 summit of a liill, while it is thrown 
 down to the bottom on the other." — 
 Lydl ; who refers to the Coombe as 
 " a beautiful example of the manner 
 in which narrow openings in the 
 chalk may have been connected with 
 shifts and dislocations in the strata. " 
 From the opening of the Coombe 
 the walk may be extended to South 
 ]Malhug, along the Cliffe suburb. 
 In this is Jireh chapel, erected, as 
 an inscription on the front an- 
 nounces, by J. Jenkins, W. A. (Welsh 
 Ambassador), and containing, in the 
 little cemetery behind, the tomb of 
 the well-known William Huntingdon, 
 S.S. This is his epitaph : — 
 
 " Here lies the coalheaver, beloved 
 of his God, but abhorred of men. 
 The Omniscient Judge, at the grand 
 assize, shall ratify and confirm this 
 to the confusion of many thousands ; 
 for England and its metropolis shall 
 know that there hath been a prophet 
 among them. W. H., S. S." (Sinner 
 saved.) 
 
 Some good views of the town are 
 obtained on the road to Mailing 
 Church ; the foundation stone of 
 which was laid (1G28) by John 
 Evelyn of the Sylva, whose early 
 education was received at the South- 
 over Grammar School. The ch. 
 contains nothing of much interest; 
 but some distance W., at Old 3Iallinfj, 
 is the site of an ancient collegiate
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 15. — Levees — Nei^libourliood. 
 
   to 
 
 chiu'cli, called the " Deanery of 
 Mailing," estalilished on a manor 
 of the Alijisi. of Canterhnry. The 
 earliest foundation is said to have 
 been made by Ceadwalla King of 
 Wessex (about 688), and it was 
 therefore one of the first Christian 
 churches in Sussex. The archbishops 
 had a residence here ; and were able 
 to jmss from South IMalling to their 
 Kentish diocese tlirougli a line of 
 parishes equally theii- o^vn "pecu- 
 liars.' The day following Becket's 
 murder, the four knights rode 40 
 miles by the sea-coast from Salt- 
 wood Castle to this place. " On 
 entering tlie house they threw off 
 their arms and trappings on the 
 large dining-table wliich stood in the 
 liall, and after supper gathered 
 round the blazing hearth ; suddenly 
 the table started back, and threw its 
 burden on the ground. The attend- 
 ants, roused by the crash, rushed in 
 with lights, and replaced the arms. 
 But soon a second still louder crash 
 was heard, and tlie various articles 
 were thrown still fartlier otf. Soldiers 
 and servants witli torches searched 
 in vain under the sohd table to find 
 the cause of its convulsions, till one 
 of the conscience-stricken knights 
 suggested that it was indignantly 
 refusing to bear the sacrilegious 
 burden of their arms. So ran the 
 popular story; and as late as the 
 fourteenth cent, it was still shown 
 in the same place, the earliest and 
 most memorable instance of a 
 'rapi^ing,' 'leaping,' and 'tiiming' 
 table." {Stanley, Hist. Mem. of Can- 
 terbury.) From South Mailing the 
 knights proceeded to Knaresborough. 
 The only trace of former glories now 
 existing at Old Mailing is the capital 
 of a column witli foliated ornaments 
 in the kitchen of the farmhouse, and 
 a small fragment of an early Norm, 
 wall in the garden. 
 
 From Cliffe Hill a walk may be 
 undertaken to Mount Cuhuru, about 
 2 m. from Lewes, where a small en- 
 trenchment, probably British, occu- 
 
 pies the brow of a hill overhanging the 
 IJass through which the railway winds, 
 and looks across to Firle Beacon on 
 the opposite side. This mass of hill 
 is entirely divided from the rest of 
 the S. dow'us ; the Firle valley 
 cutting it off from the line whicii 
 extends to Beacliy Head, and the 
 Ouse separating it from tlie spur on 
 which the town of Lewes is built. 
 It is about 9 m. in circumference ; 
 and tlie drive round this isolated 
 cluster of hills is a very pleasant one, 
 passing through the villages of 
 Beddingliam, Glpidc, and Ringmer. 
 It is from Bingmer that many of 
 Gilbert White's (of Selbourne) let- 
 ters are dated. " Though I have 
 now travelled the Sussex downs up- 
 wards of 30 years, yet I still investi- 
 gate that chain of majestic moimtains 
 with fresh admiration year by year." 
 {lltliLetter to Barrington.) The rook- 
 ery whicli he meutions still exists. 
 Mount Caburn is so conspicuous an 
 oliject from the top of the Cliife Hill, 
 that the pedestrian will have no 
 difficulty in findmg his way to it. 
 The "cleans "and "coombes" and 
 green heights which make up the 
 character of the downs are here seen 
 in perfection. The tourist who may 
 have been accustomed to the fresh, 
 dafihing streams usually found in dis- 
 tricts like these, filling every hollow 
 with the most delicious sound in the 
 world — "the lonely voice of waters, 
 wild and sweet" — will here, as 
 throughout the chalk country, find 
 them missing. He must seek con- 
 solation in the exquisitely varying 
 lights, which along these soft reaches 
 of turf produce eflects almost more 
 striking and picturesque than on 
 rougher hill-sides. Even the solemn 
 grey shadows of the coombes rmder 
 a completely clouded sky are not 
 witliout tlieir ))eauty. (For a general 
 notice of the S. Downs see Introduc- 
 tion, Siissex.') 
 
 The view, which is grand and 
 varied the whole way from Clifte 
 Hill, attains its finest point at Mount
 
 274 
 
 HoiLte 1 5. — Lewes — NeighlouylioGd. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Cabm-n. Pevensey Castle and Battle 
 Abbey — each a landmark in the 
 story of the Conquest — are within 
 sight; and troni his watch-tower 
 liere the archseologist may recon- 
 struct for himself the whole pa- 
 norama of ancient Sussex. The 
 view from the sister height, Firle 
 Beacon, is perhaps still more pic- 
 turesque, since it has more of the 
 sea; but this summit is not so easy 
 of access as Caburn. 
 
 The camp at Mount Caburn is 
 nearly circular, with double trenches 
 and a very lofty rampart. There are 
 traces of gates or entrances, E. and 
 AV. It effectually commanded the 
 pass below, into wiiich the hill slopes 
 from it suddenly and steeply. There 
 are many traces of earth-works in the 
 valley under the camp, in the direc- 
 tion of Lewes, called Oxsteddle Bot- 
 tom. One small oblong enclosure 
 here, looking at a distance like an 
 open book, is called " The Bible ;" 
 and sometimes "Tlie Devil's Book." 
 
 On the short sweet grass of Mount 
 Caburn and the neighbouring downs 
 the famous breed of S. Down .sheep 
 was pastured, and its merits first de- 
 veloped, by the late Mr. Ellman, 
 wliose resilience was in the village 
 of Glynde below. His improve- 
 ments in the breed were noticed by 
 Arthur Young in 1788. In 1800 
 the principal landowners of Sussex 
 presented him with a silver vase in 
 recognition of his merits ; and after 
 disposing, at intervals, of rams from 
 his flock at very high prices, he died 
 in 1832, by which time the breed of 
 S. Down sheep had been spread, and 
 taken the highest place, through- 
 out Great Britain. The bee-orchis, 
 among other rare plants, is to be 
 found, in its season, on these hills. 
 
 The small Dec. ch. at the old 
 royal manor of Kingston (about 2 m. 
 from Southover) is worth a visit for 
 the sake of its position. The vil- 
 lage is curiously nestled under the 
 hills. The return may be through 
 Iford, where is a Norm. ch. of con- 
 
 siderable interest, with a central 
 tower; and thence to Southover. 
 Swaiihorough, an old farmhouse, 1., 
 with considerable remains of early 
 architecture, was a grange belonging 
 to the Priory of St. Pancras. The 
 northern side is E. E. with Peip. 
 additions and alterations. The so- 
 called "Chapel" is divided into 3 
 rooms. The roof is concealed by a 
 flat ceiling, but should be examined, 
 as it may be, above. It resembles 
 that of Godshill Church, Isle of 
 Wight {Hussey), and is very early 
 Perp. W. of this E. E. portion is 
 an addition entirely Perp. In the 
 kitchen is an " ancient very massive 
 oak table, constructed to draw out 
 nearly double its usual length." 
 
 The most interesting of all walks 
 from Lewes, however, is that to 
 Mount Harry, the scene of the great 
 battle, and so called, as appears 
 most probable, from the unhappy 
 king (Henry III.), who was there 
 defeated. Its highest point is about 
 3 m. W. of the town. Tlie road 
 tm"ns off on tlie downs a short dis- 
 tance beyond St. Anne's church, and 
 climbs to a windmill, which forms 
 a conspicuoiis mark ; thence crossing 
 the race-course (where races are 
 annually held for two days), the 
 pedestrian reaches Mount Harry 
 itself, the summit of which, called 
 Black Cap, is crested by a stunted 
 plantation. The downs are dotted 
 witli barrows, Celtic and Saxon. The 
 views of the S. downs themselves, 
 and of the Caburn cluster, are full of 
 variety and beauty ; not less striking 
 are those toward Lewes Castle and 
 town, with the coombes beyond ; and 
 northward stretches away the great 
 Weald valley, its depth of oak- 
 forest and ancient wood finely con- 
 trasted with the bare, sliadow-swept 
 heights from which we look down 
 on it. In early autinnn, when the 
 corn-fields, " like golden shields cast 
 down from the sun," are just ready 
 for the sickle, the view from all these 
 hills is as fine as can well be con-
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 15. — Battle of Leives. 
 
 275 
 
 ceived. Newhaven, the port of 
 Lewes, is visible soon after first 
 climbing tlie clowns. At an opening 
 farther on, the terraces of Brigliton 
 appear in the distance, far more pic- 
 turesque than when seen nearer at 
 hand. Remark the broad green 
 pathways that descend the face of 
 the downs in 'a sloping direction 
 all along the N. side of the range. 
 These are called BorstaUs (Beorh- 
 stigele, hill-path, suggests Kemble), 
 and are no doubt tlie most ancient 
 lines of communication seaward. 
 One of the most conspicuous liere is 
 Jugs' Borstal!, so called from the old 
 Brighton fisliermen, locally named 
 Jiigs, who used to cross it with then- 
 wares to Lewes. 
 
 Over all this hill, from the top of 
 Mount Harry to the town, the battle 
 extended in its various stages. 
 
 The king, accompanied by Prince 
 Edward and the main body of liis 
 forces, reached Lewes May 11th, 1264, 
 and established himself in the Priory 
 of St.Pancras; Prince Edward taking 
 lip his quarters in the Castle of De 
 Warrene, his brother-in-law. The 
 army of De Montfort and the barons 
 rapidly followed Iving Hem-y ; and 
 their camp was fixed at Fletching, in 
 the Weald, about 9 m. from Lewes. 
 (The spire of Fletching Church is 
 visible from IMount Harry.) The 
 Bps. of London and Worcester were 
 despatched by De Montfort as 
 bearers of his final propositions to the 
 King : these were rejected, and the 
 Bai"ous at once jirepared for battle. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 13th 
 of May their army chmbed the 
 do^vms, and advanced along the 
 ridge vmtil they came within sight of 
 the bell-tower of the Priory. Here 
 Simon de Montfort addressed them ; 
 and all the troops prostrated them- 
 selves on the turf, extending their 
 arms in the form of a cross, and 
 uttering a short prayer for victory. 
 De Montfort, having been lamed by 
 tlie fall of his horse some time before 
 the battle, had been conveyed to 
 
 Fletching in a sort of closed litter. 
 This was now brought on the field, 
 and stationed on a conspicuous point 
 of the hiU, surrounded by his own 
 standard and pennons, in order to 
 deceive the royal troops. Within 
 the litter were shut up some London 
 citizens of importance, who had been 
 made prisoners in the preceding 
 autumn. 
 
 From the highest point of Mount 
 Harry three projecting ridges stretch 
 down toward Lewes, separated by 
 deep hollows. The Barons' army 
 advanced along these ridges in three 
 divisions. The left was commanded 
 by Nicholas de Segrave, the centre 
 by De Clare, and the right by the 
 two sons of De Montfort ; a fourth 
 division remained in reserve, com- 
 manded by the Earl himself. 
 
 The King had been made early 
 aware of the advance of the Barons 
 and of their ascent of the downs. 
 Prince Edward first issued from the 
 Castle, and found himself opposed to 
 the body of troops under De Segrave. 
 On the S., Richard King of the Ro- 
 mans, with his son, fronted the young 
 De Montforts ; and King Henry him- 
 self commanded the central body 
 opposed to De Clare and the Earl's 
 reserve. When the two hosts had 
 thus faced each other, the royal 
 " dragon " was unfurled, and with 
 the famous challenge from the King's 
 mouth, " Simon, je vous defye," the 
 battle began. 
 
 The left body of tlie Barons' army, 
 imder De Segrave, were at once 
 broken by the troops of Edward, 
 who pursued them for four miles 
 without drawing bridle. Tlie rout 
 was complete. "Along the most 
 northern slope of the downs nu- 
 merous bones and arms have been 
 found, tracing the direction of their 
 flight toward the W., where the 
 abrupt steepness of the ground 
 afl"orded fugitives on foot the best 
 chance of escape from horsemen." 
 {W.H.Blaauw.) During this advance, 
 or possibly on the return, Prince
 
 276 
 
 Fioute 15. — Lewes — Neighbourhood . 
 
 Sect. n. 
 
 Edward attacked the litter in wbicli 
 Simou was supposed to be, and tlie 
 unhappy London citizens were killed. 
 Meauwliile, De Montfort, seeing the 
 confusion caused by the Prince's 
 eager pursuit of the left wing, 
 brought down his reserve upon the 
 remaining royalists. The King of 
 the Konians, after a "strong struggle," 
 fled; and King Henry, after two 
 horses had been killed under him, 
 retreated into the Priory with the 
 scanty remnant of liis forces. 
 
 On Prince Edward's return the 
 battle was renewed under the Castle 
 walls, and in the streets of the town ; 
 but, like his father, he was finally 
 driven within the walls of St. Pancras. 
 At the commencement of the battle 
 some knights from tlie Barons' army 
 had been made prisoners, and con- 
 fined in the castle. An attempt was 
 made to rescue them, but without 
 success ; and in revenge the barons 
 set fire to the Priory, though the 
 flames were soon extinguished. 
 After the Prince's return, and pro- 
 bably during the attack on the 
 Castle, a number of his followers, 
 seeing that the day was lost, left 
 him and fled toward Pevensey. They 
 were joined by other fugitives from 
 the town; and a terrible confusion 
 took i)lace at the bridge which 
 crossed the Ouse S. of Lewes. 
 " Numbers were there drowned, and 
 others suffocated in the pits of mud ; 
 while, from the swampy nature of 
 the ground, many knights Avho 
 perished there were discovered after 
 the battle, still sitting on their horses 
 in complete armour, and with drawn 
 swords in their lifeless hands. Quan- 
 tities of arms were found in this 
 quarter for many years afterwards." 
 ( W. H. Blaamv.) The King of the 
 Eomans had taken refuge in a wind- 
 mill which stood on the site of the 
 present Black Horse Inn, on the edge 
 of the downs, above St. Anne's 
 Church. " Tlie Kyng of Alemaigne 
 thought to do full well; he seized 
 the mill for a castel," ran the ballad ; 
 
 but "the bad miller'' was attacked 
 in his fortress and made prisoner. 
 About 50u0 are thought to have 
 been killed in the battle, although a 
 much higher number has sometimes 
 been given. 
 
 The day thus closed with the en- 
 tire defeat of the royal party. The 
 so-called " Mise of Lewes " was the 
 result. Prince Edward, and his 
 cousin, the son of the King of the 
 Romans, were delivered to tlie barons 
 as hostages, and the matters in dis- 
 pute referred to the arbitration of 
 the King of France. 
 
 Although the cause of the barons 
 sank low after the subsequent defeat 
 at Evesham, the battle of Lewes was 
 nevertheless a great step toward the 
 establishment of the liberties of 
 England. The Great Charter was 
 materially confirmed on the green- 
 sward of Mount Harry; and the 
 advantages here gained by the high 
 heart of De Montfort were never en- 
 tirely lost. For this and for ample 
 details of the whole contest see Mr. 
 Blaauw's 'Barons' War,' London, 
 1844. 
 
 2 m. to the W. of Mount Harry 
 a large cross was cut on the side 
 of the downs; only now visible 
 imder peculiar eff"ects of light. It 
 was perhaps intended to excite the 
 prayers of travellers for the re- 
 pose of such as had fallen in the 
 battle. 
 
 From Mount Harry the pedestriau 
 may descend tlie hill on the N. side, 
 and return to Lewes by the old Lon- 
 don road. In so doing, at the Offham 
 chalk-pits he will pass the remains 
 of what claims to be the first bit of 
 railway executed in the south of Eng- 
 land. It is an inclined plane for 
 conveying the lime or chalk to the 
 stream of the Ouse. Beyond, on 
 the side of the downs, is Coombe 
 Place (Sir Henry Shifther). In 
 Eamsey Church (early Peqj.), which 
 overhangs the bed of the river, is a 
 rich Easter sepidchre (?) in the N. 
 wall. The marl bank at the foot of
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 15. — Fletching. — Buxted. 
 
 277 
 
 the mound ou wMch the church 
 stands is rich iu fossils. 
 
 Some longer but very interesting 
 excursions may be made into the 
 Weald country N. of Lewes. 
 Fletching, 9 m., may be reached Ijy 
 the Newick road ; the retui-n to 
 Lewes being througli Uckfield -and 
 Little Horsted. The whole of tliis 
 country may be commanded from 
 the Downs above Lewes, so that the 
 visitor may judge beforehand of the 
 class of scenery he is about to en- 
 counter. 
 
 The drive to Fletching is through 
 a richly wooded, pleasant country, 
 but offers nothing to detain the 
 tourist. Tlie Church of Fletching, 
 one of the few in Sussex provided 
 ■with a spire, is of great interest. It 
 is the largest in the district. The 
 greater part is E. E. The design of 
 tlie large E. window is unusual. The 
 tower is Norm., though not without 
 some peculiarities which may indi- 
 cate an earlier date. There is no 
 staircase, as is also the case at 
 Bosham. The double windows are 
 divided by balusters with Norm, 
 capitals, and the door opening into 
 the chui'ch was a semicircular arch 
 with zigzag moulding. The floor 
 of the ch. has a gradual ascent from 
 W. to E. The achievements sus- 
 pended in the transept show the 
 crest of the Nevilles (a bull's head) ; 
 though in what manner that family 
 was connected with this parish is 
 uncertain. On an altar-tomb in the 
 S. transept is a very fine Brass of a 
 knight of the Dalyngrugge family 
 and his wife, circ. 1395. On the 
 jupou of the knight are his anns — 
 or, a cross engrailed, gules. In the 
 same transept is tlie altar-tomb, with 
 effigies, of Rich. Leche (d. 1596). 
 
 In the mausoleum of the Sheffield 
 family (a continuation of the N. 
 transept) is interred Gibbon the his- 
 torian. The characteristic inscrip- 
 tion is from the pen of Dr. Parr. 
 Gibbon spent much of the latter part 
 
 of his life at Sheffield Place ; John 
 Hoh-oyd, the first Lord Sheffield, 
 having been his most intimate friend. 
 
 Sheffield Flace (Earl of Sheffield) 
 was almost entirely rebuilt by the 
 late Earl. It cannot be called good. 
 The shields on the outer walls are 
 those of the various possessors of the 
 manor since the Conquest. The 
 park is very fine, and contains some 
 noble timber. In the house is pre- 
 served the only good portrait of Gib- 
 bon, painted by Sir Joshua for his 
 friend Mr. Holroyd. 
 
 Adjoining Sheffield is Series (Sir 
 T. M. Wilson). 
 
 In the woods, which then com- 
 pletely surrounded tlie old church 
 of Fletching, Simon de Montfort en- 
 camped mtli the anny of the barons 
 the night before the battle of Lewes, 
 May 13th, 1264 ; and from this spot, 
 after their fruitless negociation with 
 the Iving, they climbed the downs at 
 Mount Hariy. (See ante.) 
 
 Maresjield, which adjoins Fletching, 
 N., has a small Dec. ch. of no great 
 importance. " It contains however 
 some good ancient woodwork." 
 (Hussey.) In the neighbourhood is 
 Maresjield Park ( J.V. Shelley, Esq.). 
 
 Buxted, the first village on the 
 return road, is more interesting. The 
 church, wliich standson Iiigh ground 
 surrounded by trees, is E. E. with a 
 Dec. chancel. It has a low shingled 
 spire. It may be remarked that nearly 
 all the Sussex spires occur in the 
 Weald, as though to mark the position 
 of the church by their elevation above 
 the tree-tops. Over the N. ])orch is 
 a figure of a woman holding a large 
 churn, possil ly a rebus for the name 
 of AUchoru. "Ou either side is a 
 figure of a warrior carved in stone, 
 having a shield upon his breast." 
 (Ilorsjield.) In the chancel is the 
 Brass of Britellus Avenel, rectoi-, 
 1375. The coped figure is in the 
 upper part of a cross fleury. " Chris- 
 tojiher Savage, both flesh and bone, 
 lyeth graven under a stone," at the 
 entrance of the chancel. 
 
 3
 
 278 
 
 Route 15. — UcTifield. — Little Ilorsted. 
 
 Sect.II. 
 
 Near Buxtecl Cliurcli is an ancient 
 building called the Hog-house ; from 
 a bog carved over the door, with 
 the date 1581. This was the resi- 
 dence of the Hogge family; one 
 of whom, Ralf Hogge, in 1543 cast 
 the first iron cannon over made 
 in England, snpersetUng the earlier 
 hooped or banded guns. The name 
 Hogge seems to have become con- 
 founded with that of Huggett ; and 
 HurigeU's Furnace, between Buxted 
 and Mayfield, is still pointed out as 
 the place where the first iron ord- 
 nance was cast. 
 
 ■" Master Huggett and his man John, 
 They did cast the first can-non" — 
 
 runs the local rhyme. Ralf Hogge 
 was at first assisted by French and 
 Flemisli gunsmiths, but afterwards 
 " made by himself ordnance of cast- 
 iron of divers sorts." The name of 
 Huggett is still common among the 
 lilacksmiths of E. Sussex. {M. A. 
 Lower.') 
 
 At Howbourne in this jiarish is 
 another relic of the iron manufac- 
 ture. The old hammer-post, an 
 oaken trunk, Gg ft. high, still remains 
 near the end of the pond, which has 
 been drained. The great interest of 
 these relics lies in the contrast they 
 suggest between the present cha- 
 racter of the country, quiet and tree- 
 shadowed, and its condition in the 
 days when anvil and hammer rang 
 incessantly through all the Weald. 
 
 At Hendall (N. of the ch.) is an 
 ancient house which may be worth 
 visiting. " On the E. is a circidar arch 
 with pillars, in good repair." {Ilors- 
 jield.) It was for some generations 
 the residence of a family called Pope. 
 
 Buxted Place (Colonel Harcourt), 
 deserves notice for the sake of its 
 pai'k, which is picturesque and well 
 wooiled. Tlie Rev. Edward Clarke, 
 fatlierof the traveller, was long rector 
 of Buxted. The place boasts also 
 of another celebrity, George Watson, 
 the "Sussex calculator," who, in 
 other respects all but idiotic, coidd 
 
 perform the most difficult arith- 
 metical calculations, and remember 
 the events and the weather of eveiy 
 day from an early period of his life. 
 
 Vclifield, 2 m., stands in the midst 
 of pleasant scenery, richly wooded 
 and varied, like all this part of 
 Sussex. The ch. has been rebuilt. 
 The grounds of Copwood (Mrs. 
 Streatfeild) are picturesque, and on 
 the borders of a small lake are some 
 masses of rock, characteristic of the 
 Hastings sand, and resembling those 
 on the common at Tunbridge Wells. 
 There are others on an estate called 
 the Rocks, between Uckfield and 
 Buxted ; where is also a deep cavern 
 iu the sandstone. 
 
 Little Horsted, the next village, 
 has a small Norm. ch. of no great 
 interest. Is field (2 m. off' the road, 
 W.), has a Dec. ch. with later addi- 
 tions. On the S. side is the Shurley 
 Chapel, containing some interesting- 
 monuments ; Brasses of Edw. Shurley 
 and wife, 1558, and of Thos. Shurley, 
 1571 ; and an elaborate altar-tomb 
 with effigies of Sir John Shiu-ley 
 and his two wives, 1631. The 
 inscription is edifying, and should be 
 read. The children by his first wife, 
 some of whom " were called into 
 heaven, and the others into several 
 marriages of good quality," appear 
 in front of the monument. The Shm-- 
 leys of Isfield were a branch of the 
 celebrated Wiston family ; and there 
 are still considerable remains of their 
 ancient residence, Isfield Place. The 
 Shurley arms and mottoes remain 
 over the door. The house was sur- 
 rounded by a lofty wall, having a 
 kind of watch-tower at each angle. 
 This is probably earlier than the 
 remains of the dwelling-house, now 
 a farm. Comp. ComiJton Castle, 
 Devon, which has the same external 
 wall, and dates from the end of the 
 14th cent. 
 
 In the ch. at Isfield, Gundi'ada's 
 tomb, now in Southover Church, 
 Lewes, was long preserved and mis- 
 applied. (See ante.)
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Eoiite 1 5. — Laugliton. — Xeichaven. 
 
 279 
 
 A drive of 5 in. through a vciy 
 pleasant country will bring the tourist 
 to Lewes, 
 
 A second and shorter roiuid may 
 be to Laughton and Ciiiddingly. 
 
 Laugliton, G m. E., deserve,^ a visit 
 for the sake of the remains of the 
 old house of the Pelhams ; although 
 these are not extensive. A single 
 brick tower, to which a modern 
 farm-house is attached, rises in the 
 midst of a wide and almost treeless 
 plain, the site of the ancient jjark. 
 The house was built in 153i ; and 
 the moat, siUTouuLling about 3 acres, 
 attests its former uoportance. At 
 the S. corner is a lofty building 
 chequered by diagonal lines of 
 darker brick, and terminating in a 
 stepped gable. Here and in the 
 maiu tower the arabesque is curi- 
 ously mingled with trefoil-lieaded 
 Gothic ; and the Pelham buckle, the 
 famous badge assumed after the 
 battle of Poictiers, is introduced on 
 the walls and in the window mould- 
 ings. From the tower there is a 
 wide view over all the surrounding 
 country. 
 
 Laugliton has been the property 
 of the Pelhams since the beginning 
 of the 15th cent., and still remains 
 in theu' hands. Their burial-place 
 is in Laughton Church, which, how- 
 ever, contains no monuments. 
 
 On Culhrand's Farm in this parish 
 (\Y. of the ch.) are two remarkable 
 oak-trees, gnarled, shattered, and 
 carrjang the mind back into the 
 ancient world even more completely 
 than the most venerable ruin of 
 " stone and lime." Their ago is 
 altogether unknown. 
 
 The Church of E. Hoathhj, N. of 
 Laughton, is for the most part Perp. 
 The Pelham buckle occurs on the 
 tower. On the S. border of the 
 parish is Hulland, an Elizabethan 
 house, long a residence of the Pel- 
 hams ; the greater part of which, 
 however, has been taken down. 
 Waldron, still farther N., is in the 
 
 midst of the wooded district. The 
 ch. is Dec. and Perp. (See Ete. 17.) 
 
 The Church of Chiddinghj, 3 m. 
 from Laughton, conspicuous with its 
 lofty stone spire, deserves a visit. It 
 is mainly E. E., but the tower and 
 spire are perhaps Dec. It contains 
 the stately and somewhat unusual 
 monumentof Sir John Jetferay, Chief 
 Baron of the Exchequer temp. Eliz. 
 Sir John and his wife recline on tlie 
 tomb, whilst in niches on either side 
 stand the figures of Sir Edward 
 Montague and his wife, the daughter 
 of Sir John Jefferay. A mutilated 
 figure of a child kneels in front. 
 
 W. of the ch. are eoirsiderable 
 remains of Chiddinglij Place, the 
 mansion of the Jetierays. It was 
 Elizabethan and of great size. 
 
 A branch railway from Lewes 
 leads to NeicJiaren, 7 m., the ancient 
 port of the Ouse, and now well 
 known as the place of embarkation 
 for Diejipe, between which place 
 and Newhaven large steam-vessels 
 ply daily. This route is the most 
 direct between London and Paris. 
 The steam passage is effected in 
 about ii hom's. It was here that 
 Louis PhiUppe and his Queen 
 landed in 1848, ha\ing crossed from 
 Tre'port in an open fishing-boat. 
 The residence of Mr. Smith, who 
 greeted him on his arrival, and 
 whose name the ex-monarch " fan- 
 cied he had heard before," may no 
 doubt be discovered by the curious. 
 Vessels of some size are built at 
 Newhaven, which is said to be " the 
 only port of moderate value between 
 Portsmouth and the Downs." Its 
 important situation has more than 
 once suggested material improve- 
 ments in the harbour, which still 
 however remain to be effected. 
 
 The little Norm. Church of New- 
 haven, with chancel apse at the E. 
 end of its tower, curiously resembles 
 that of Yainville-sur-Seine {31. A. L.), 
 one of the many Norm, resemblance*
 
 280 
 
 Route 1 5 . — Bishopstone. — Seaford. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 on tliis coast. The cliurchcs of 
 Southese and Pidtliughoc, between 
 Lewes and Newhaveu, have round 
 towers. Piddiugboe is famous in 
 popular saying as the pUxce " where 
 they slioe magpies," which oracular 
 statement may be com2iared with 
 another specimen of Sussex wit — 
 " Heightou, Denton, and Tarring " 
 (villages on the opposite bank of the 
 Ouse), "all begins \vitli A." 
 
 [Reaching Newhaven by rail, the 
 toiu-ist may from thence extend 
 his excursion to Bishopstone, Sea- 
 ford, and West Dean. The Clmrcli of 
 Blshopdone (about 2 m.) is very 
 interesting. Tlie tower is in four 
 stories, each diminishing about a 
 foot ; in eacli lower stage is a single 
 circular-headed window ; in the 
 upper, a double window, with balus- 
 ters; in the third, a circular 
 window with mouldings. At the 
 angles of the three upper stages arc 
 circular shafts, without capitals or 
 bases. The present tower-arch is 
 circular. Norm., and low, but there 
 are traces of a loftier one now hitlden 
 in the roof. Under the stunted 
 spire is a grotesque corbel table. 
 Within, the chancel is in two divi- 
 sions, the westermnost of which is not 
 distinguishable externally from the 
 nave. The arches are Norm, and 
 E.E. There are traces of circular- 
 headed windows in diiferent parts; 
 the present are E.E. Remark the 
 now closed openings in the chancel 
 and nave gables. Similar ones 
 " may almost invariably be found in 
 the cliurches of tliis central coast 
 district of Sussex." (Hitssey.) The 
 form of the S. porch is imusual, and 
 the outer angles exhibit long and 
 short work. The capitals at the 
 sides of the doorway should be 
 noticed. Tlie ancient beams and 
 king-posts seem quite sound. Over 
 the door is a stone dial i^late, 
 having in the upper part a cross 
 and the name Eadric. (Comp. 
 those of Corhampton and Warnford, 
 Hants, and a remarkable dial at 
 
 Aldborough, Yorkshire, which has 
 the inscription — "Ulf het arerau 
 cyrice for haumn and for Gunthard 
 saula.") The church seems originally 
 Norm, with E.E. alterations. The 
 porch alone shows Saxon indications. 
 In the vestry is a curious stone slab 
 found during the recent restoration. 
 On it is a cross with intertwined 
 circles : in one of which appears 
 tlie Agnus Dei ; in another, two 
 doves drinlving, a favourite early 
 Cliristian symbol. If early Norm., it 
 .sliows Italian influence. {W. Figg, 
 in S. A. C.) In the chancel is the 
 monument of the Rev. I. Hurdis, 
 Oxford ijoetry professor, d. 1801. 
 Tlie verses are by Hayley. 
 
 Seaford, 2 ni., is an ancient mem- 
 ber of the Cinque Port of Hastings, 
 and takes rank immediately after the 
 7 greater ones. The old harbour, 
 now entirely closed, was the original 
 outlet of the Ouse. It sufi'ered much 
 from tiie French attacks under Ed- 
 ward III., and later from the black 
 death, which it .scarcely recovered, 
 though it continued an " immaculate 
 borough " until the days of Reform. 
 The French, under their High 
 Admiral Claude d'Annabault, at- 
 tacked it in ] 5i5, when " the Pelliam 
 did re-pel 'em," as we learn from his 
 monument at Lewes. The church, 
 dedicated to St. Leonard, a favourite 
 patron of the Cinque Ports, is Norm, 
 and E. E. Remark especially the 
 carving of the central column of the 
 S. aisle. The sculpture of St. Michael 
 and the dragon, fixed above it, is of 
 tlie same date, and was found in the 
 churchyard. To the exterior wall are 
 attached a stone cofiQn and cover, 
 also found here. Traces of Roman 
 occupation, urns and medals, have 
 been discovered in the neighbour- 
 hood. Seaford may jiossibly be the 
 Mercredesburn (Moer-cryd, sea ford) 
 of Ella's battle in 485. Into the ha- 
 ven of Seaford, in 1058, was driven 
 a Flemish vessel, having on board 
 Balger, a monk of Bergue St. Winox, 
 who, "fidelis fur et latro- bonus,"
 
 Sussex, 
 
 Route 15. — Went Dean. — Alfriston. 
 
 281 
 
 stole from the neiglibouring mo- 
 nastery of St. Andi-ew the relics of 
 St. Lewinua, one of the early 
 British converts in Sussex. The 
 position of St. Andrew's monastery 
 is unkiaown. For the whole story 
 of tliis pious theft, which is very 
 curious, see Suss. Arch. Coll., i. p. 40. 
 
 lu the garden of " The Folly," a 
 house in Church Street, is a vaulted 
 apartment of E. E. character. An 
 early stone chimney-piece (in a build- 
 ing attached to the Plough Inn) 
 may be worth examination. 
 
 Seafurd has some slight preten- 
 sions as a quiet bathing-place, and 
 will doubtless become in that respect 
 more important. 
 
 On the verge of the lofty cliff, a 
 short distance E. of the town, is a 
 ledge called " Puck Clnu-ch Par- 
 lour," inaccessible except by a nar- 
 row path from above. There are 
 3 platforms, each a few feet square, 
 " now the abode of a pair or two of 
 old foxes, who find here a most 
 secure retceat from dog and hunter, 
 and are occasionally visited by the 
 raven, the chough, sea-gull, and 
 peregrine falcon." {M. A. Lower). 
 This is not the only instance in 
 which the name of the " tricksy 
 spirit " is connected with the sea and 
 its belongings, as, for instance, at 
 Puck Down, near Bournemouth, 
 Hants ; Puckaster, Isle of "Wight, &c. 
 
 At West Dean, ?> m., an ancient 
 parsonage-house of the 14th cent, 
 still remains, though now divide<l 
 into cottages. It is built of stone 
 and oak timber, having a spiral stone 
 stair leachng to an upper story. The 
 lower fireplace has been altered ; the 
 upper remains as at first. Windows, 
 mulUons, &c., all deserve attention. 
 It was probably built by the Prior 
 of Wilmington, a cell of St. Mary 
 Grestein in Normandy. West Dean 
 belonged to Wilmington. (Comp. 
 Sore Place, Plaj-tole, Kent.) The 
 church is Norm., -svith E. E. jjortions. 
 
 The undulations in the clialk 
 clilfs between Seaford and Beachy 
 
 Head are known as the " Seven 
 Sisters" — a mysterious number which 
 occurs frequently in the boundary 
 lists of Saxon charters, as " Seven 
 Oaks," "Seven Thorns," &c. In these 
 chfts peregrine falcons and ravens 
 annually rear their young, " and the 
 kestrel may be seen fluttering along 
 the margin, or dropping over the 
 edge of the precipice, on his return 
 to his own Uttle estabhshment from 
 a mousing expedition into the in- 
 terior." (^. E. Knox.) 
 
 The tourist may proceed, if he 
 chooses, by Fristou and East Dean 
 to Beachy Head and Eastbourne, re- 
 gaining the Hastings railway at Pole- 
 gate. The whole of this coast-road is 
 picturesque, with the sea on one side 
 and the downs close on the other. 
 Fristou Place is for the most part of 
 the 17tli century, and deserves ex- 
 amination.] 
 
 The Church of Ghjncle (Glyn, Celt, 
 a vale), 53 m. from London, the first 
 station beyond Lewes, is a sjiecLmen 
 of the Grecian taste of 17G5, when it 
 was built by Rd. Trevor, Bp. of Dur- 
 ham. An obelisk in the churchyard 
 has an inscription by Mrs. Hemans 
 to the memory of two sous of Sir D. 
 Wcdderburn. 1. is Glijnde Place (Lord 
 Dacre) ; andrt. stretch away the woods 
 and jolantations of Flrle Place (Lord 
 Gage) ; both Elizabethan houses, and 
 in the usual S. Down position, close 
 under tlie hills. Firle Beacon rises 
 behind. From 
 
 57^ m. Bericick the little vil- 
 lage of Alfriston, about 3 m., may 
 be visited. The ancient ho.stelry of 
 the Star Inn well deserves notice. 
 It is of the beginning of the 16th 
 cent., and was probably a resting- 
 place for pilgrims to the shrine of 
 St. Richardof Chichester. On wooden 
 ))rackets each side of the door are 
 mitred figures, — one with a hind 
 (St. Giles V), — and the other possibly 
 St. Julian, the patron of travellers. 
 Among other ornaments are St. 
 George and the Dragon, and what is
 
 282 
 
 Route 15. — Eastiourne. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 apparently a bear and ragged staff 
 with a lion opposite. The house 
 stands within the boundaries of 
 Alciston IManor, belonging to the 
 Abbot of Battle, by whom it may 
 have been built. On the bracket of 
 a beam in the parlour is a shield with 
 I. H. S. on it. {M. A. L.) There is 
 a mutilated cross in the village 
 street. In the spring of 1843 aboiTt 
 .60 silver Anglo-Saxon sceattas were 
 found at Milton Street, close by, in a 
 garden. At 
 
 61 m. Polegate, short lines branch 
 to Eastbourne and Hailsham. 
 
 Eastbourne lies about 4 m. S. Not 
 far from Polegate the line of the 
 clowns turns S., and terminates in the 
 promontory of Beachy Head. From 
 the station are visible the little churcli 
 and village of Wilinington. There 
 was here a Priory, connected with 
 the Benedictine Abbey of Grestein, 
 near Houfleur, to which religious 
 house it was given by Kobert de 
 Moriton, the first Norman Lord 
 of Pevensey and the surrounding 
 manors. There are some scanty re- 
 mains of "Alien Priory" as it is 
 called, now converted into a farm- 
 house. The principal sitting-room 
 was formed out of the chapel. There 
 is a cellar, supported by a low hex- 
 agonal pillar in the centre ; and the 
 house-roof, vast and full of timber, 
 is evidently that of the old building. 
 The shattered gate-towers adjoining 
 seem of the reign of Henry Yl. 
 About 2 ni. off is a pond called the 
 " Well Holes," the stew for supply- 
 ing the brethren's "maigre" table. 
 S.E., on the side of the Downs, is the 
 so-called "Long Blan of Wilming- 
 ton," a rude figure 240 ft. in length, 
 holding a staff in either hand. It 
 has not been " scoured " for many 
 years, and is invisible on the spot, 
 but is easily distinguishable at a 
 distance when the light falls on it 
 at a particular angle. There is a 
 similar figure at Cerne Abbas in 
 Dorsetshire. Both are near religious 
 
 houses, and may have been the work 
 of their inmates. Wilmington Church 
 has Norm, portions. Some of the 
 windows, as well as the arches and 
 pillars of the S. transept, are com- 
 posed entirely of hard chalk. In 
 the churchyard is a venerable and 
 most picturesque yew, 20 feet in 
 girth where the main stem divides. 
 
 The walk from Wilmington to 
 Eastbourne, keeping along the crest 
 of the Downs, will not be found an 
 unpleasant one. A great sti-etch of 
 country is commanded on either side. 
 The pedestrian may, if he pleases, 
 divert rt. to Jtvington, where the ch. 
 tower has some peculiarities which 
 have been called Saxon, but which 
 rather resemble those of the Norm, 
 tower of Bishopstone. In the wall 
 of the belfry is a fragment of ancient 
 sculpture representing the Saviour 
 bruising the serpent's head. 
 
 Eastbourne, however, will be ordi- 
 narily reached by rail. The station 
 is about half way between the old 
 village and the newly erected " Sea 
 houses." On the 1. between the 
 station and the village, 1^ m., is 
 Eastbourne Place, long the residence 
 of Davies Gilbert, the well-known 
 President of the Koyal Society. The 
 Church, which deserves careful at- 
 tention, is for the most part rich 
 Trans. Norm. The chancel arch is 
 slightly pointed, and depressed. The 
 S. chancel has Perp. sedilia and a 
 Perp. Easter sepulchre. The piers 
 and arches dividing this from the N. 
 chancel are Trans., and should be 
 well examined. In the N. chancel is 
 the monument of Davies Gilbert. His 
 family name was Giddy, and that of 
 Gilbert was assumed by him on his 
 marriage with tlie heiress of East- 
 bourne Park. Tlie Greek inscription 
 on the monument was probably 
 chosen by himself, as well as the 
 words on the slab of the vault 
 below : — " To fiiWov 7?|ei." The 
 E. window lias some fragments 
 of Flemish glass. The manor of 
 Eastbourne soon after the Conquest
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 1 5. — Bcacliy Head. 
 
 283 
 
 passed into the hands of the Badles- 
 mere family, who seem to have built 
 the eh. The Parsoncxje Farm-house 
 and the Lamb Inn, both adjoining 
 the eh., are ancient buildings, de- 
 serving careful examination. Both 
 have the reijutation of having been 
 religious houses, but no certainty 
 exists in either case. The farm is 
 said to have been a house of Black 
 Friars. At the Lamb is a remarkable 
 vaulted apartment, and a refresliing 
 bit of Eadcliifian mystery, in the 
 shape of a siibterraneoiis passage 
 leading toward tlie ch., wliich has 
 only been explored in part. 
 
 The Sea-houses, the Eastboiu'ne of 
 Invalids and holiday-makers, are 
 about 2 m. from the old village. 
 Like other watering-places on tliis 
 coast, Eastbourne began to be known 
 about the beginning of the century. 
 It has now some good houses and 
 terraces; but whoever is in search 
 of gaiety should go elsewhere. The 
 grand recommendations of East- 
 bourne are, its quiet, and the mag- 
 nificeut stretch of sea, over which 
 Beachy Head, at no great distance, 
 looks out far and wide. In this direc- 
 tion the walks about Eastbourne are 
 full of beauty. The roads toward 
 the old village are shadowed by elm- 
 trees of unusual size. Eastward, a 
 marshy plain extends toward Peven- 
 sey. Many places of great interest 
 iu this part of Sussex are accessible 
 by rail from Eastbourne. Hurstmon- 
 ceux, 9 m. ; Michelham, 8 m. ; and 
 Peveusey, 5 m., are within driving 
 distance (see post). 
 
 The circular redoubt here, and the 
 martello towers which dot the coast- 
 line at intervals in the direction 
 of Hastings, were erected between 
 1804-7, when a descent of French 
 troops in tliis neighl)(jurhood was 
 not altogether unexi^ected. 
 
 Beachy Head, where our old com- 
 panions the S. Downs leave us, is 
 about 3 m. W. of the town. Its 
 summit is 575 feet above the sea- 
 level ; E. the view extends to Hast- 
 
 ings, W. to the Isle of Wight. The 
 coast of France is visible on a clear 
 day. There are few grander head- 
 lands on the southern coast, and 
 few which have witnessed more fre- 
 quent or more hopeless shipwrecks. 
 These have been greatly diminished 
 since the erection in 1831 of the 
 Bell Tout Lighthouse, wliich the 
 visitor will see on liis way. It stands 
 on a point considerably lower than 
 Beachy Head itself, but projecting 
 farther into the sea. Close under 
 Beachy Head is a cavern called 
 "Parson Darby's Hole;" its two 
 ai^artments are said to have been 
 excavated with his o\vn hands by a 
 former \icar of E. Dean, as a refuge 
 for the shipwrecked, and partly per- 
 haps for himself ; since Mrs. Darby is 
 said to have been gifted with unusual 
 powers of loquacity. On stormy 
 nights he hung out a light here. 
 Parson Darby's fioek, however, were 
 by no means so humanely disposed 
 as himself. " Providential wrecks," as 
 the Cornishmen used to call them, 
 were prayed for not less devoutly all 
 along this coast, whose natives, says 
 Congreve, " fattened on the spoils of 
 Providence, 
 
 " As critics throng to see a new play split, 
 And thrive and prosper on the wrecks of 
 wit." 
 
 The lighthouse and better charts 
 have gone far to diminish these 
 prolits ; and smuggling, for which the 
 coast was equally famous, has, since 
 the establishment of the coast-guard, 
 whose station is perclied on the top 
 of the cliflf, retired to more solitary 
 shores. The headland itself is the 
 resort of numberless sea-fowl. From 
 time immemorial a pair of peregrine 
 falcons have built near the summit, 
 and guard the lofty ledge on which 
 their nest is situated with the most 
 watchfid jealousy. " With the excep- 
 tion of a few jackdaws who bustled 
 out of the crevices below, all the 
 other birds which had now assembled 
 on tliis i^art of the coast for the
 
 28-i 
 
 Route 15. — Beadiy Head. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 breeding season — it being about the 
 middle of May — seemed to resiDect 
 the territory of their warUke neigh- 
 bours. The adjoining precipice, 
 farther westwai-d, was occupied by 
 guillemots and razorbills, who had 
 deposited their eggs, the former on 
 the naked ledge, the latter in the 
 crevices in the face of the cliff. Here 
 the jackdaws appeared quite at their 
 ease, their loud, merry note being 
 heard above every other sound, as 
 they flew in and out of the fissures 
 in the white rock, or sat perched on 
 a pinnacle near the. summit, and 
 leisurely surveyed the busy crowd 
 below." {A. E. Knox.) The sam- 
 phire, which grows here in abim- 
 dance, has more than once told a 
 welcome story to tlie shipwrecked 
 sailor, who, having gained the ledges 
 from which it hangs, knows that he 
 is above the sea-mark. 
 
 Off Beachy Head, June 30, 1G90, 
 took place the fight between the 
 combined English and Dutch fleet 
 of 50 sail, under Lord Toriington, 
 and tlie French, of 82, under tlie 
 Count do Jourville. The Dutch, 
 after displaying wonderful courage, 
 were placed in extreme peril before 
 Torrington could come up to them. 
 He at last succeeded in placing his 
 fleet between those of the Dutch 
 and Frencli, and thus saved the 
 former; but retired after the first 
 day's fight to the mouth of the 
 Thames. For this, Torrington was 
 committed to the Tower by King 
 William — pleaded his own cause — 
 was acquitted, and passed in triumph 
 up tlio Medway with his flag flying. 
 The king, however, could not forget 
 the peril of his Dutch ships, and the 
 loss of many of them, and Tor- 
 rington's commission was taken from 
 him. (See Marjiulay, vol. iii.) 
 
 Birling Gap, \h m. W. of Beachy 
 Head, was formerly defended, like 
 some of the "gates " on the Kentish 
 coast, by an arch and portcullis, 
 some remains of which may still be 
 traced. The visitor may descend 
 
 to the beach by this gap, and re- 
 turn to Eastbourne through the 
 Cow Gap, which passes upward 
 from the beach on the E. side of the 
 headland. 
 
 Tlie grandeur of Beachy Head 
 and the adjoining coast will best be 
 seen from the water : boats can rea- 
 dily be procured at Eastbourne, and 
 can pass along close under the chalk 
 chfTs. " The Charles Kock," below 
 the headland, is the solitary survivor 
 of 7 liigh masses called the " Seven 
 Charleses," the rest of which have 
 gradually crumbled away. " When 
 the Charleses wear a cap, the 
 clouds weep," is the local saying. 
 
 Among this wild coast scenery, 
 and associating with still wilder 
 smugglers, Mortimer the painter 
 (born 1741) passed his earlier years. 
 His father was Collector of the Cus- 
 toms at Eastbourne, and the artist's 
 favourite subjects, wild seas, wrecks, 
 and gloomy caverns, the haunts 
 alike of land and water thieves, 
 prove, not less than his irregular life, 
 how powerfully he had been influ- 
 enced by his early surroundings. 
 
 The foundations of a Roman villa 
 were discovered here in 1848, S.E. 
 of Trinity Church. The downs are 
 dotted with tiimuli, and show many 
 traces of early entrenchments. 
 
 Between Eastbourne and Bexhill 
 extends the sweep of Peveusey Bay, 
 the coast of which is little else than 
 a wide - spreading bed of shingle, 
 aftbrding by no means easy walking. 
 Wide, flat pieces of wood, shaped to 
 the feet, and called "backsters," are 
 here (and in jjarts of Kent) used for 
 walking over it. "On this wild 
 Ijcach the ring dotterel, or stone 
 runner as it is frequently termed, 
 deposits 3 eggs, which can scarcely 
 be distinguished from the surround- 
 ing pebbles; and many species of 
 terns haunt it in great numbers 
 during the sxunmcr months. But 
 amid this liari'cn waste, like an 
 oasis in a desert, a cluster of green, 
 furze-covered hillocks suddenly ap-
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 15. — Michelham Ft 
 
 lory. 
 
 285 
 
 pears, intersected ^Yith little fresh- 
 water lakes, whose swampy banks, 
 clothed with reeds and rushes, 
 abound, diuing certain season, with 
 many migratory birds of the gral- 
 latorial and natatorial divisions. ' 
 (^4. E. Knox.) A corner of this 
 oasis is passed in driving from East- 
 bourne to Pevensey, 5 m., an excur- 
 sion by no means to be recom- 
 mended on the score of beauty, 
 though the interest of Pevensey 
 itself cannot be overrated. 
 
 Langney, aboiit halfway, was an 
 ancient grange of the Lewes Priory. 
 The chapel remains almost entire. 
 
 Haihham (4 m. from Polegate 
 station) contains nothing of great 
 interest. The chiu'ch has a low 
 pimiacled tower (Perp.) like those 
 in some parts of Devon. 
 
 At Otham, in the S. part of the 
 parish, is a .small chapel of early 
 Dec. character, now used as a stable. 
 It marks the site of a house of Pre- 
 monstratensiau canons, iirst settled 
 here, and then removed to Bayham 
 in Kent. A chapel of St. Lawrence 
 still remained on the older site, and 
 is probably that now existing. 
 
 The remains of Michedium Priory, 
 2 m. W. of the town, are more im- 
 portant and interesting. It was a 
 house of Augustiniau canons, 
 founded by Gilbert de Aquila early 
 in the reign of Hemy III. The 
 buildings, now converted into a 
 farmhouse, formed a spacious quad- 
 rangle, and are siurounded by a 
 broad moat, covered with water- 
 lilies, and a favourite haunt of the 
 otter. Three fish-stews, commu- 
 nicating with the moat, still remain 
 usable. The moat is fed by the 
 river Cuckmere. The present bridge 
 seems to have replaced a draw- 
 bridge; for the house was suffi- 
 ciently near the sea to induce the 
 canons to look well after their means 
 of defence. 
 
 The enclosure is entered through 
 a square gateway tower of 3 stories. I 
 
 Of other remains the most im- 
 portant are a crypt, now used as a 
 dairy, and an ancient apartment 
 above it; probably the common 
 room of the canons, though called 
 the "Prior"s chamber." This has a 
 massive stone fireplace, surmounted 
 by a funnel projecting from the 
 wall, and chvided into two distinct 
 and equal parts, having a flat stone 
 bracket on either side of the funnel. 
 In this fireplace are two andirons of 
 Sussex iron, terminatuig in human 
 heads, the head-dress marking the 
 time of Henry VII. All this por- 
 tion is E. E. and part of the original 
 building. Some mutilated E. E. 
 arches near the present back door 
 seem to mark the site of the chapel. 
 The large parlour of the farmhouse 
 is late Tudor, and has been secu- 
 larized. A remarkable passage, 
 ribbed over with short pointed 
 arches, runs parallel with the crypt, 
 and is called Isaac's Hole. It seems 
 probable that it was the Latema, 
 or place of punishment. (Comp. the 
 Lantern in Lewes Priory, ante.) 
 
 Owls in great numbers frequent 
 the large roofs of the farm. The 
 old priory mill stands without the 
 moat, surrounded by a cluster of 
 trees, and makes a pleasant ijicture. 
 
 It was at Hellingly, 3 m. N. of 
 Hailsham, where the Pelhams had 
 a deer-park, that Lord Dacre of 
 Hurstmonceux, temji. Hen. VIII., 
 was hunting with certain of his 
 friends, when a "fraie" took place, 
 in which John Brisbrig was killed. 
 For this Lord Dacre was subse- 
 rjuently executed at Tyburn. His 
 tleatli, so called — "murder," thought 
 Camden — was caused by " his great 
 estate, wliich the needj' com'tiei-s 
 gasped after." They missed their 
 prey, however, since it was foimd 
 "too strongly entailed." (See, for a 
 very diflerent judgment on this mat- 
 ter, Froude, Hist. Eng. iv. 120.) 
 
 Near Hellingly Park is an ancient 
 boundary mark (?) called the Am- 
 berstone.
 
 28G 
 
 Route 15. — Ilardiiionceux Castle. 
 
 Sect. IL 
 
 Ilurslinonceux Castle, 3 m., may be 
 best visited from Hailsham. 
 
 Waleran cle Monceu.r, the first 
 Norman lord of the district, gave 
 his name to tliis parisli and to 
 Compton Mouceiix iii Hants. From 
 an lieiress of this family tlie manor 
 passed to Sir John de Fienes, whose 
 descendants, the Lords Dacre of the 
 Soutli, retained it until 1708, since 
 which time it has passed through 
 many hands, chiefly those of the allied 
 families of Hare and Najdor. A ma- 
 nor-house existed here from a very 
 early period, proliably on tlie site of the 
 present castle. This was built, temi?. 
 Hen. VI., by Sir Roger de Fiene.s 
 who had been present at Agincourt. 
 It was entirely of brick, and was 
 probably the largest jiost - Roman 
 building of that material in England. 
 It had fallen much into decay 
 toward tlie end of the last century ; 
 and in 1777, after an examination 
 by Wyatt the architect, the interior 
 was demolished, and the materials 
 used for enlarging the present man- 
 .sion (Hurstmonceux Place), on tlie 
 W. side of the park. 
 
 Tlie shell of the castle still re- 
 mains, a very interesting specimen 
 of the half fortress, half mansion 
 of the latter daj's of feudalism. 
 The valley in which it stands is 
 .still beautiful, though the " wings 
 of tlic blue hills covered with 
 wood," which Horace Walpole ad- 
 mired on his visit in 1752, have 
 been deprived of the greater part of 
 their timber. The actual site is low, 
 and the building, " for the conveni- 
 ence of water to the moat, saw 
 nothing at all" (Walpole). It en- 
 closed 3 courts, a largo and 2 small 
 ones. The main gateway, a very fine 
 one, is in the S. front. Above it is 
 the shield of the Fieneses, with their 
 supporter, the alaune or wolf-dog. 
 The flanking towers are 84 feet high, 
 and are capped by watch - tiu-rets, 
 from which the sea is visible. A 
 wooden bridge takes the place of the 
 old drawbridge, "actuallyin being'in 
 
 Walpole's time. " Persons who have 
 visited Rome, on entering the court, 
 and seeing the piles of brickwork 
 strewn about, liave been reminded 
 of the baths of Caracalla, though of 
 course on a miniature scale ; the il- 
 lusion being perhaps fostered by the 
 deep blue of the Sussex sky, which, 
 when compared with that in more 
 iiorthernly parts of England, has al- 
 most an Italian character." (Arclidn. 
 Hare.) The walls are thickly co- 
 vered with ivy, finely contrasting the 
 red colour of the brick. Remark 
 especially the great trunks of the 
 ivy in what was the dining-room. 
 The inner courts are carpeted with a 
 bright green turf, and hazel-bushes 
 have sprung up here and there be- 
 tween the walls. 
 
 The "Green Court" is the first 
 entered ; and beyond this was the 
 great hall, which had a central fire- 
 place. Other apartments were 
 ranged round the walls. The S. and 
 N. fronts of the castle measured 
 206 ft., and the E. and W. 214. The 
 kitchen, like the hall, was of great 
 height, and had no ujiper story. The 
 great oven of the bakehouse, 14 feet 
 diameter, is worth notice. On the 1. 
 side of the S. front, beyond the gate- 
 house, was a long room which Grose 
 suggests may have been intended 
 for a stable in case of a siege. The 
 small chapel (marked by its oriel) 
 was in the S.E. front, and had some 
 stained glass in Walpole's time. 
 Some had been removed, and " we 
 actually found St. Catherine, and 
 another gentlewoman with a church 
 in her hand, exiled into the butteiy." 
 The " alaunes " of tlie Fienes 
 figured in most of the windows 
 tliroughout the castle. Up to the 
 demoUtion of the castle, all the walls, 
 except those of the principal apart- 
 ments, remained " in their native 
 hricl;]iooil." "That age had not 
 arrived at the luxury of whitewash," 
 says Walpole. Under the tower at 
 the S.E. angle was the dungeon, 
 " giving one a delightful idea of
 
 Sussex. 
 
 liOule 13. — Hur^tnionceux C/i 
 
 urea. 
 
 287 
 
 living iu the days of soccage, and 
 under such goodly teuui-es." {Wal- 
 2)ole.) In Grose's time a stone post 
 Avith a large chain still remained in 
 the centre. Over the porter's lodge 
 was a room called the " Drummer's 
 Hall," in which, says tlic tradition, a 
 chest containing treasure was hid- 
 den, and guarded by a supernatural 
 drummer, the sound of whose dnnn 
 was occasionally heard at midnight. 
 Addison's comedy of ' The Drum- 
 mer' was " descended from it," 
 says Walpole ; but there are similar 
 stories in Baxter's ' Invisible "World" 
 and other such collections. The 
 unearthly driuu of Hurstmonceiix is 
 said to have been the invention of a 
 gardener, who sounded it in the 
 interest of certain smugglers by 
 whom the castle was frequented. 
 The winding stairs wliich communi- 
 cated with the upper galleries are 
 ciuious, and should be examined. 
 Some carvings by Grinling Gibbons, 
 formerly in the castle, and noticed 
 by "Walpole, are now preserved at 
 Hurstmonceux Place. 
 
 The moat, which surrounded the 
 castle, spread out on the E. side into 
 a large pond. This was drained 
 early in Elizabeth's reign, and 
 formed into a pleasauuce, of which 
 only traces remain. A row of grand 
 old Spanish chesnuts beyond the 
 moat are, it is said, of greater anti- 
 quity than the castle, and may pos- 
 sibly have shadowed the walls of 
 the earlier building. 
 
 The visitor should make the cir- 
 cuit of the castle without the walls 
 as far as possible. The exterior of 
 the W. side is especially striking. 
 
 Hurstmonceux Cluu-ch was for- 
 merly connected with the castle by 
 "a brave old avenue" "up which," 
 says Walpole, " we walked, with ships 
 sailing on our left hand the whole 
 way." The ships are 6 miles off, 
 however, and the avenue has now 
 entirely disappeared ; but the church 
 .should on no account be left ini- 
 visited. It stands on high groiuid. 
 
 commanding distant views of Bcacliy 
 Head ; and under the great church- 
 yard yew are a cluster of tomb 
 crosses, which alone would give in- 
 terest to the spot; those of Archd. 
 Hare, rector of Hurstmonceux, d. 
 185.5, with whose name " Hurstmon- 
 ceux may well be proud, as it may 
 well ))e thankful, to have its name, its 
 people, and its scenery associated" 
 ( Quart. Rev.) ; liis brother Marcus 
 Hare ; Caroline Deimling ; and 
 others. Archd. Hare's first curate 
 here was John Sterling, who has had 
 the good fortune to obtain two dis- 
 tinct biographies,— by Hare, and 
 Carlyle. 
 
 The ch. itself is mainly E. E. : on 
 the caps of the circidar columns are 
 palm-leaves, marking that the build- 
 ing is early in the style, if it should 
 not rather be called Trans. The 
 E. window, tilled with medallions 
 from the life of Our Lord, is recent, 
 and a memorial of the Archdeacon. 
 Adjoining, between the main chancel 
 and the "Dacre" chantry, is the very 
 striking tomb of Thomas Fienes, 2nd 
 Lord Dacre (d. ISS-i), "all in our tre- 
 foil taste," says "Walpole. From its 
 position the recumbent effigies (those 
 of Lord Dacre and his son, who died 
 before him) receive peculiar effects 
 of light. Their feet rest on alaunes, 
 the badge of their house ; and the 
 grey, time-worn look of the stone 
 canopy, rich with carved work, com- 
 bines to heighten the solemnity of the 
 sleeping figures below. The mantling 
 of the helmets in the canopy is re- 
 markable, and the details of the entire 
 monument deserve careful examina- 
 tion. There is very little of any 
 Italian mixture, such as is so marked 
 in the scarcely later Delawarr tombs 
 at Broadwater and Boxgrove. Lord 
 Dacre's will provides that this 
 monument should be used as the 
 Easter sepulchre. The niches at the 
 ends probably contained the figures 
 of patron saints. The greater part of 
 the tomb is of Petworth marble, the 
 rest is Caen stone.
 
 288 
 
 Route 15. — Pevsnsei/. 
 
 Sect. 11. 
 
 On the pavement is the tine Brass 
 of Sir William Fienes, li05. Against 
 the chancel wall is a monument by 
 Kessels, a Flemish sculptor, who died 
 at Rome, wliere the work was exe- 
 cuted, in memory of tlie mother of 
 Archd. Hare, Mrs. Naylor of Hurst- 
 monceiix Place. 
 
 The modern Hurstmonceux Place, 
 above the castle, is the residence of 
 H. M. Curteis, Esq. 
 
 From Hurstmonceux the tourist 
 may descend on the Hastings Railway 
 at Pevensey Station, and visit the 
 castle there (see 2^°^0' or he may 
 proceed liy Ashburnham to Battle, 
 aljout 10 m. (See Rte. 17.) 
 
 After leaving the Polegate Station 
 the railway enters the so-called 
 " Lowy" (leuca) of Pevensey, the dis- 
 trict suiTounding the ancient castle, — 
 once dotted with low islands, — in 
 a wide bay of the sea, and now a 
 tract of green marshland. Hidney, 
 INIankseye, Horsey, Northey, and 
 Langney, all terminating with the 
 Saxon " ey," ig (island), are still the 
 names of slight eminences in these 
 marshes ; and another such island 
 was 
 
 65 m. from London, — Pevensey, 
 (Peofn's Island), where the archseo- 
 logist may enjoy such a day of 
 dreams and explorations as rarely 
 falls to the lot of the most ima- 
 ginative of Oldbucks. The castle 
 is about 5 m. distant from the ter- 
 minus. In approaching it, the round 
 towers of the Decuman, or western 
 gateway, are first seen ; and when the 
 gate is passed the tourist finds liim- 
 self confronted by the mediaeval 
 castle of the " Eagle Honour," rising 
 witliin the walls of a Brito-Roman 
 city, — for there can no longer be the 
 sliglitest doubt that Pevensey is the 
 ancient Anderida. Full and most 
 careful historical notices will be 
 found in Mr. Lower's ' Chronicles of 
 Pevensey.' Only the most important 
 can be referred to here. 
 
 Anderida, so called from the great 
 
 Andredes-weald, or forest of Andred, 
 which covered all this ]>art of Sus- 
 sex (the name, according to Dr. 
 Guest, signifies the "uninliabited dis- 
 trict," — from an, the Celtic negative 
 particle, and tred, a dwelling), was 
 one of the great Roman fortresses un- 
 der the command of the Count of the 
 Saxon Shore. Some years after 477, 
 when the Saxons under ^Ella made 
 their first permanent settlements on 
 the coast near Chichester, they at- 
 tacked Anderida, " and slew all that 
 dwelt therein, nor was there one 
 Briton left." {Sax. Chron.) — an entry 
 whose simple brevity appeared to 
 Gibbon more dreadful than all the 
 lamentations of Gildas. (A longer 
 account of the destruction of Ande- 
 rida occurs in Henry of Huntingdon, 
 1. ii.) The site of this luckless city 
 has been claimed in turn by no less 
 than seven Sussex towns, and by at 
 least one in Kent ; and wrathful an- 
 tiquaries have debated the question 
 with all the energy of Sir Arthur 
 Wardour in the dining-room at 
 Monkbarns. It has been eftectually 
 settled by modei'n research, which, 
 in addition to other discoveries, has 
 proved the exterior walls of Peven- 
 sey to be Roman. 
 
 After the Conquest, Pevensey was 
 granted to Robert do Moriton, 
 the Conqueror's half-brother, who, 
 " struck with the importance of the 
 position for one whose interests lay 
 between England and Normandy," 
 built a castle here witliin the ancient 
 walls. About 1104 the barony of 
 Pevensey passed into the hands of 
 Gilbert de Aquila, in which great 
 Norman family it continued, with 
 some variations, for about a century. 
 Hence the name of the " Honour of 
 the Eagle," by which the barony was 
 subsequently known. The Earls of 
 Warrene then held it for some little 
 time. About 12G',) it was granted to 
 Prince Edward, afterwards Edward 
 I., and his heirs ; and it continued in 
 the crown imtil Edward III. settled 
 it on .lohn of Gaunt, who appointed
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 15. — Pevensey Castle. 
 
 289 
 
 one of the Pelhams bis constable. 
 Tbis family long retained the com- 
 mand here. The later history of 
 the castle is uncertain. Like many 
 others, it seems to have been left 
 to a gradual decay, after the gene- 
 ral introduction of artillery ; and at 
 the period of the Annada, orders 
 were issued for the ruins to be 
 " utterly e rased.' Fortunately this 
 order was disregarded. The castle 
 long continued, however, a perfect 
 quarry for the neighbouruig district. 
 In 1650 the parhamentary commis- 
 sioners sold the materials for 40L 
 to John Warr of Westminster, who 
 left them untouched. The present 
 " Lord of the Eagle " is the Earl of 
 Burlington : and there is little reason 
 to apprehend any further depreda- 
 tioiis on the venerable fortress thus 
 preserved, "fortuna rerum"'— for the 
 ^'religio patrum" had certainly no 
 hand in the matter. 
 
 Pevensey Castle was besieged by 
 Eufus in 1088, when Odo, Bishop of 
 Bayeux, who had espoused the cause 
 of Duke Eobert, held it out for six 
 weeks ; by Stephen ; by Simon de 
 Montfort, son of the " Fleur de Prys," 
 the great Earl of Leicester, on behalf 
 of the barons, in 1265 ; and again in 
 1399, when it was gallantly field out 
 by the Lady Pelham against the 
 combined forces of Sussex, Surrey, 
 ;ind Kent, who attacked it on behalf 
 of Richard II., Pelham, its constable, 
 being a strong partisan of the red 
 rose. On tliis occasion the earliest 
 existing letter in the EngUsh lan- 
 guage was despatched from Peven- 
 sey by the Lady Pelham "to her 
 trew Lorde," then absent with Bo- 
 lingbroke (see it in HaUam, Lit. 
 Hist. i. 71, and in Lower's Chron.). 
 The castle siibsequently served as 
 the prison of Edmund Duke of York, 
 and of Queen Joan of Navarre, the 
 hist wife of Hem-y IV., accused 
 of emplojang " metaphysical aid " 
 against the life of Henry V., and 
 detained here nearly four years. 
 
 After the picturesque appearance 
 
 of the ivj'-grown towers, with their 
 accomijaniments of shattered bridge 
 and reed-grown moat, has been duly 
 admired, and after a glance has been 
 bestowed on the pictiu-e seen look- 
 ing back toward Westham and 
 Beachy, between the venerable 
 entrance towers, the fortress may be 
 examined more in detail, begimiing 
 with the Eoman portion. 
 
 This consists of nearly the whole 
 outer walls; for although some 
 Norman work ia observable on the 
 northern side, the rest is still in the 
 same eoncUtion in which it was 
 found by the Saxon -Ella's host. 
 
 The plan of the walls, neglecting 
 the usual Roman square, follows 
 the outline of the rising ground. 
 " Hence the irregular oval and 
 island- like fonn of the enclosure." 
 At the period of tlieir erection 
 " the southern and eastern sides 
 doubtless occupied a sort of low 
 clift", washed at every tide by the 
 waters of the ocean, or at least a 
 considerable arm of the sea. On the 
 other sides the ground, tliough not 
 so precipitous, rises more or less 
 from the general level of the siu'- 
 ruunding marsh." {M.A.L.) The 
 walls average about 12 feet in thick- 
 ness, and between 24 and 30 in 
 height, spite of the changes of 1600 
 years. " The mark of the trowel is 
 still visible on the mortar, and many 
 of the facing stones look as fresh as 
 if they had been cut yesterday." 
 (Wright.) The material is flint, with 
 sea-sand mortar ; the facing, squared 
 sandstones, with bonding courses of 
 red tiks. The mortar has the usual 
 red tint (from the pounded tiles 
 mixed with it) of Roman work. The 
 walls are strengthened at intervals 
 by solid buttress towers, which every- 
 where stand singly, except at the 
 W. entrance. The principal tower 
 on the N. side has some remarkable 
 Norm, additions, no doubt part of 
 the works of Robert de Moriton. 
 Remark the far greater nideness of 
 tlie masonry, " as base as the Roman
 
 290 
 
 Route 15. — Pevedsey Castle 
 
 Sect. 11. 
 
 is excellent." A nule Norm, win- 
 dow remains, no doubt a watch- 
 tower, commanding the whole of the 
 marshes and weald ; some Norm, 
 work also appears in the next tower 
 eastward. W. of both these towers, 
 and also W. of a portion of the wall 
 that has fallen outward, is a little 
 postern gate, " which does not pass 
 at right angles through the wall, but 
 by a singular winding course, — ob- 
 viously for better defence." The ex- 
 cavations which were undertaken 
 here in 1852 proved that the towers 
 of the great W. gateway had origin- 
 ally been connected by a wall, an 
 archway in which formed the en- 
 trance. The whole of the area, it 
 also appeared, had been covered -uith 
 a bed of stiff" red clay to a depth of 
 many feet, and debris of various 
 kinds, accumulating on this, had 
 raised the surface within so greatly, 
 that the walls in some places are 
 little more than breast high. This 
 elevation, on the E. side, seems to 
 have been purposely made. Tlie 
 visitor will do well to walk round 
 the walls without, as well as within, 
 the area. 
 
 The area, exclusive of the me- 
 diaeval castle, contains about 8^ acres. 
 The Koman coins that have been 
 found here are mostly of the a^ra of 
 the Constantines, a proof that this 
 was the most flourishing period of 
 Anderida. 
 
 On the bank overlooking the S. 
 wall are two jneces of ordnance of 
 the IGth cent. These are probably 
 the identical "two demi-culverings 
 of small value," mentioned as being 
 in the castle of "Pemsey," in a 
 survey of the Sussex coast made in 
 1587, in anticipation of the Spanish 
 invasion. 
 
 The castle of the " Eagle " rises 
 massive and grand within this Eoman 
 castrum. The gateway towers, look- 
 ing towards the Decuman gate, have, 
 says Mr. Wright, "evidently been 
 imitated by tlie mediajval architect 
 from the Koman models before him." 
 
 The castle is no longer accessible by 
 this gateway, however, and must be 
 entered from behind, — by a path 
 nearly opposite the church. Five 
 towers, built of Eastboiuiie or green 
 sandstone, surroiuid the court. One 
 of these, on the E. side, was elevated 
 on an artificial mound, and ftirmed 
 the keep. That of the N.W. angle 
 is said to have been the residence of 
 
 the governor. 
 
 Eemark in the gate- 
 
 way towers the arrangement for 
 the portcullis and drawbridge. The 
 entire castle dates from about the 
 end of the 13th cent, at which time 
 it was in the hands of the crown, 
 though some traces of the original 
 Norm, work may be observed about 
 the gateway. At the S.E. angle the 
 Eoman wall of Anderida has been 
 very skilfully connected with the 
 castle, and a small .sallyport opens on 
 the toj) of one of the Eoman towers, 
 which remains firm althougli curi- 
 ously bent forward. Within the 
 court, S. of the N.W. tower, stood a 
 small cliapel, of which the founda- 
 tions are still traceable. Still farther 
 S. is the well of the fortress, 50 ft. 
 deep, and very solidly constructed. 
 In emptying it, during the recent ex- 
 cavations, numerous masses of green 
 sandstone, supposed to have been 
 catapult balls, were found, together 
 with some skulls of wolves, the 
 ancient " burgesses " of the wood of 
 Andred. Within this court the 
 Sussex Archaeological Society was 
 inaugurated in July 1846. 
 
 A tliird historical association, cer- 
 tainly not less interesting than those 
 belonging to the Eoman fortress and 
 to the castle, is connected with Pc- 
 vensey : it was here that William of 
 Normandy landed a fortnight before 
 tlie battle of Hastings, Sept. 28th, 
 10G6. The disembarkation from 600 
 vessels, the number of his licet, no 
 doubt extended along all the bay 
 from Pevensey to Hastings; but it 
 was at tills spot that William's own 
 landing took place, as it is depicted 
 in the Bayeux tai)cstry. " Hie Wil-
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 15. — Pi 
 
 evensey. 
 
 291 
 
 lelm' venit ad PevenessB." The duke 
 came ashore last of all, and, in setting 
 his foot on the sand, fell for\yard on 
 his face. "A bad sign," muttered 
 the soldiers ; but " Par la resplendor 
 De," cried William, as he rose, "I 
 have seized the land -svith my two 
 hands, and, as much as there is of it, 
 it is ours." The army marched for- 
 ward without delay to Hastings. On 
 his retui'n to Normandy in the 
 following year, the Conqueror again 
 sailed from Pevensey, accompanied 
 by many English nobles ; and here 
 he distributed presents of all kinds 
 to his anxious followers. The actual 
 site of the lantling is now ^jrobably 
 covered by marsh ; but Beachy 
 Head still stretches out seaward — 
 the long line of the downs is still 
 dappled and cloud-swept, just as 
 William must liave seen it - the first 
 heights of the English land looked 
 on by their destined conqueror. 
 The Roman walls of the fortress, too, 
 must have been seen by the Nor- 
 mans nearly as we see them now. 
 
 The ancient harbour of Pevensey 
 was of coiu'se the origin as well of 
 the Roman castrum as of the selec- 
 tion of the ijlaee for William's land- 
 ing. An earlier and even more 
 important lantling, that of Caesar, 
 has been fixed by Professor Airey at 
 Pevensey {Archxologia, vol. xxxiv.) ; 
 but although the Professor's argu- 
 ments are of great interest, it seems 
 far more probable that the real scene 
 of this first invasion of Britain was 
 Deal (See Rte. 10). The harbour 
 here was formed by tlie mouth of the 
 Ashbourne river, navigable for small 
 vessels as high as Pevensey bridge, 
 until about 1700. The accumulation 
 of sand and shingle has destroyed 
 the harbour ; but Pevensey is still a 
 member of the Cinque Ports, and 
 rejoices in an ancient corporation 
 seal witli the usual Cinque Port 
 emblems, and an invocation of St. 
 Nicholas, the patron of tlie port. 
 Pevensey was a " limb " of Hastings. 
 Its "barons," as the freemen of all 
 
 the Cinque Ports were called, were 
 men of no small importance ; and 
 their chief magistrate is the hero of 
 numberless jokes, which are perhaps 
 quite as applicable elsewhere. 
 " TJiough Mayor of Pevensey, I am 
 still but a man," said one of unvisual 
 huniilit}'. Most of these stories seem 
 to be the invention of Andrew 
 Borde, one of Henry VIII. 's phy- 
 sicians, and the original "Merry 
 Andrew." Borde was a native of 
 Sussex and probably of Pevensey, 
 and his "tales of tlio wise men of 
 Gotham" were either picked up or 
 invented among the freemen of this 
 ancient port. {M. A. Lower.) The 
 usual Cinque Port privileges ex- 
 isted here. Criminals were dro^STicd 
 in tlie haven. 
 
 The Church, of Pevensey is E. E. ; 
 octangular piers are varied with 
 clustered columns, the capitals of 
 which are richly foliated. There 
 are mehcs for images in one or two 
 of the colmnns. The general effect 
 is not improved by a range of singu- 
 lar hat-stands, brandishing their 
 arms between each pier ; nor are the 
 hxgubrious arrangements about the 
 conununion-table more to be com- 
 mended. The chancel-areh is un- 
 usually fine. The chancel itself, 
 with its lancets, must have been verj' 
 striking when entire, but is now 
 cut in two by a wooden partition, 
 and the E. part unused. There is a 
 James I. monument, with an effigy, 
 for Jolm Wheately, of an ancient 
 Pevensey family. The position of the 
 tower at the N. side, between nave 
 and chancel, is unusual. There are 
 traces of a chantiy beyond. The 
 church is dedicated to St. Nicholas 
 — the patron of the port, and greatly 
 venerated by Lanfranc and the Nor- 
 mans—probably with a reference to 
 Pope Nicholas, ^yho first employed 
 tlie Normans in Apulia, ami sent 
 William his consecrated banner. It 
 is interestmg to find a St. Nicholas 
 Chui-ch here, on the scene of Wil- 
 liam's landing.
 
 292. 
 
 Route 16. — Brighton to Chichester. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Tlie ancient prison, resembling an 
 old cottage, still exists on the S. 
 side of the village street. There 
 is also an hospital, the date of which 
 is unknown, called in old documents 
 by the mysterious name of " Gorogl- 
 towu." Opposite the castle is a toler- 
 able country inn, the Royal Oak, at 
 which refreslmients may be procured. 
 
 Between Pevensey and the station 
 ia the village street of Westham. The 
 church deserves notice. It contains 
 portions of various periods ; in the 
 S. wall are some Norm, windows ; 
 the chancel is Perp. with some frag- 
 ments of stained glass ; the Norm. 
 S. transept is converted into a school- 
 room. 
 
 From Pevensey the tourist may 
 visit HurstmoHceux (see ante) by 
 the Watling road, about 6 m. 
 
 The railway, passing close under 
 the old castle, keeps in constant 
 view of the sea, witli its line of 
 martello towers, until it reaches 
 
 71| m. BexhlU. The village stands 
 on an eminence a short distance 
 above the station. Of the Church, 
 the nave is Norm ; the chancel E. E. 
 The window figured in the frontis- 
 piece to Walpole's Ann. of Paint- 
 ing, vol. i., representing (according 
 to him) Eleanor of Provence and 
 Henry III., was prociired by hmi 
 from this ch. at a time when similar 
 robberies were not uncommon. It 
 was formerly at Strawberry Hill. 
 Richard do la Wych, the sainted 
 bishop of Chichester, is usually said 
 to have died here, biit his death 
 really took place (1253) in the 
 Maison Dieu at Dover, where he had 
 rested whilst preaching the crusade 
 along the coast. A submarine forest 
 has been discovered on the coast 
 here, from wliicli the sea is now 
 retiring instead of encroaching. 
 
 In the Church of Ilooe, a small 
 village about 4 m. N.W., is some 
 stained glass with the figures of 
 Edwaril III. and PhiUppa, not unlike 
 the window stolen from Bexliill. 
 
 From Bexhill, still along the coast, 
 
 the railway passes to St. Leonard's, 
 and thence to 
 76| m. Hastings. (See Rte. 12.) 
 
 EOUTE 16. 
 
 BRIGHTON TO CHICHESTER. 
 
 {Brijiiton and S. Coast Railway, Ports- 
 mout/i Branch.') 
 
 Hove 1 m., the first station from 
 Brighton, is ui fact a suburb of the 
 great watering place, to which it is 
 united by a series of streets and 
 squares. The old parish church is the 
 fragment of a much larger one, wliich 
 seems to have been Tr. Nonn. In a 
 meadow beyond, are the ruins of 
 Aldrington Church, of E. E. cha- 
 racter. The sea, which has greatly 
 encroached on this coast, is said to 
 have destroyed the village. 
 
 The principal points of interest in 
 the neighbourliood of Brighton will 
 best be visited from the town itself. 
 The railway, which keeps the sea in 
 view nearly the whole way, offers 
 nothing to detain the tourist at any 
 intermediate station, imtil he reaches 
 
 G m. Ntw Shoreham (Inn: Dol- 
 jihin), which gradually rose as the 
 iiarbour of Old Shoreham (1 m. N.) 
 became silted up. As one of the great 
 liighways to Normandy, and one of the 
 principal harbours on this coast, this 
 embouchure of the Adur river became 
 early of importance. John landed 
 here on his return to England as 
 king after the death of Cceur-de-Lion. 
 The town fm-nished 26 ships to the 
 fleet of Edward III. hi 134:6 ; but 
 subsequently decUned, omng to the
 
 teUSSEX. 
 
 Boute IG. — Shorcham. 
 
 293 
 
 encroaclimonts of the sea. It was ' 
 from Shoreliam that Charles II. em- 
 barked after the battle of Worcester, i 
 and Ills 2)reservatioii at Boscobel. 
 Accompanied by Lord Wihnot, he ! 
 had crossed tlie country from his I 
 hiding' place at Trent in Somerset to 
 Brighton, where they met the captain j 
 of the vessel which had been en- 
 gaged for them, and which lay at 
 .Shoreham. Thej- rode over to it 
 early in the morning, and after wait- 
 ing for the tide, at last lost sight of 
 tlie "mahguant" English shore, Oct. 
 15, 1651 : the same day on which the 
 Earl of Derby, who liad fled from 
 Worcester witli Charles, lost his head 
 on the scaftbld at Bolton. The king 
 was safely landed at I'ecamii. After 
 the restoration, the vessel in which 
 he crossed was brought by Captain 
 Tattersall into tlie Thames, "where 
 it lay some months at anchor before 
 Whitehall, to renew the memory of 
 the happy service it had performed." 
 How far Captain Tattersall suc- 
 ceeded in renewing the king's very 
 slippery memory, does not appear. 
 
 Shoreham haven has recently been 
 much improved ; but although the 
 waters within expand laterally to a 
 great extent, the mouth is uaii-ow, 
 and cannot be entered by large 
 vessels Imt at high tide. A suspen- 
 sion bridge, built over the Adur, at 
 the expense of the Dulce of Xorfolk, 
 in 1833, has done much for the town. 
 Much sliip-building goes on here, 
 and there is a coiisidera])le ti-ude 
 with France. The main objects of 
 interest, however, here and at Old 
 Shoreham, are the churches, which 
 the archaiologist should by no means 
 neglect. Both were probably erected 
 by the great Braose family, the early 
 lords of Shoreliam. 
 
 New Shoreham contains portions 
 of Norm., Tr., and E. E. It was ori- 
 ginally a largo cross church, but 
 nearly the whole of the nave has 
 disappeared. The series of ]nirs and 
 arches, including tlie Iriforium, in 
 
 the limb of the cross 
 [Kent it tSussex.'] 
 
 whicli forms 
 
 the present nave, is very interesting 
 and varied, being somewhat later 
 than Steyning, with wliich it may be 
 compared. Tliose of the S. side are 
 distinct E. E., the others perhaps 
 Trans. Remark especially the un- 
 usual pendant corbels, on wliich the 
 triforium arches of the N. side rest. 
 The leafage of the capitals througli- 
 out the church deserves .special 
 attention. It is still stiff, but the 
 naturahsm of the Dec. is beguming 
 to display itself. Note the palm 
 branches, indicating tlie early cru- 
 sade, and a cajiital in the S. transept, 
 formed trom tlie leaves of some water- 
 plant or large flag. 
 
 A circular-headed arcading nuis 
 dowm the Norm, walls of each aisle. 
 The vaulting is E. E. The extreme 
 E. end has a trijjle lancet al)ove cir- 
 cular-headed late Norm, ^\^ndows. 
 All this jKirtion is later than the ori- 
 ginally central tower, the transepts, 
 and the 2 remaining bays of the nave, 
 whicli are all Norm. From a wea- 
 ther moulding on the E. side of the 
 tower, it would seem that the original 
 cliaiicel was very low, " perhaps 
 terminating in an apse like New- 
 haven." The upper story of the 
 central tower, as seen from without, 
 is Trans, ancl has a later addition. 
 Observe also the exterior of the E. 
 end, which shows some curious patch- 
 work, Norm, and E. E. In the nave 
 is a good Bruss of a merchant and 
 wife, temp. Edw. IV. 
 
 Old ShoreMm Church, about 1 m. 
 N., is scarcely less interesting. It is 
 cruciform, the 4 limbs being of equal 
 length. This is the original cli. of 
 the district. New Shoreham having 
 liecn at first a chapel attaelied to if. 
 It is almost tlirougliout Norm., and 
 is " remarkable for the small nmnber 
 of windows, and the consequent dark- 
 ness of the nave ; as also for possess- 
 ing, on the tie beams of the cliancel, 
 tlie tootli moulding, which is very 
 rarely found carved in wood." 
 (lliisneij.) The lower arches are 
 very highly enriched. Eemark the
 
 291 
 
 Route IG. — Wortldng. — Broadwater. 
 
 Sect. TL 
 
 peculiar oT)lonf^ window in the S. 
 transept, with its exterior zigzag bor- 
 dering. This chureli has been care- 
 fully and well restored by Mr. Ferrey. 
 
 From Shoreham an excursion may 
 be made to Steyning, AViston, and 
 Chanctonbury Eing ; or the journey 
 may be prolonged to Storrington, 
 where is a good iiui, and from whence 
 Parham and Amberley may be vi- 
 sited. (For all these places see 
 Etc. IS.) 
 
 The large building on tlic hill at, 
 8 m.. Lancing is St. Nicholas Col- 
 lege, a scliool for the lower middle 
 classes, forming pai't of a large and 
 excellent scheme which comprises 
 3 grades of schools : — 
 
 1. For the education of upper 
 classes at Shoreham (in fact, a gram- 
 mar school), at 40', a-year ; 
 
 2. For sons of farmers at Ilurst- 
 pierpoint (see Etc. 1 4), at 23/, ; and 
 
 3. For sons of small traders, at 
 Lancing, at 14/. The wliole scheme, 
 of wliich the Lancing division is not 
 tiie least important, has been esta- 
 blished under the sanction of the 
 Bishops of tlie Church of England. 
 The college here is not yet (1857) 
 completed, biit will aft'ord accom- 
 modation to 1000 boys. Tlie views 
 from it are good, and from the downs 
 beyond a wide stretch of coast is 
 commanded. Ijancing possibly de- 
 rives its name from ^]'Iencing, one of 
 the sons of Ella, founder of the S. 
 Saxon kingdom. 
 
 Proceeding onward along the 
 coast, the tourist soon reaches 
 
 lO^m. Wortlihig (Inns: Sea-House 
 Hotel, Marine Hotel ; Stejaie Hotel), 
 a pleasant, broad-streeted watering 
 place, " discovered" some time before 
 Brighton, but not destined to attain 
 the dimensions of that marine 
 London. There is good battling at 
 Worthing, and a sea-side walk along 
 tlie esplanade, raised above the 
 f^hingle, from wliich in clear weather 
 the line of coast is visible from 
 Beachy Head to the Isle of Wight. 
 All the usual watering - place 
 
 " agre'mens " will be found duly pro- 
 vided. The sea-weed at low water 
 is said to be more than usually an- 
 noying at Wortldng ; but the climate 
 is milder than that of Brighton, and 
 consequently has its recommenda- 
 tions for a certain class of invalids. 
 
 The town itself was a mere fishing 
 village until about the year 1800, 
 when it Ijegan to rise in importance. 
 It contains notliiiig to detain the 
 ordinary tourist ; but the neigh- 
 bourhood has many points of in- 
 terest, which may be visited from 
 here. 
 
 The churches of Broadwater and 
 Sompting are within a indh. Broad- 
 loater, 1 m., is Trans. Norm., nearly 
 of the same date as Steyning, and 
 very rich. There is some good wood- 
 work. Eemark outside the N. wall 
 a cross wrought in flint. The palm 
 branch occurs here as at Shoreham. 
 In the N. chancel is a fine Brass of 
 Jolui Mapletou, Chancellor to Mar- 
 garet of Anjou, d. 1432, and an elabo- 
 rate tonil) in Caen stone for Thomas 
 Lord la Warre, d. 1526. The same 
 mixture of Italian and Gotliic occurs 
 here as in the tomb of the 2nd 
 Lord la Warre (1532) at Boxgrove, 
 and the design was probably fur- 
 nished by the same person. In the 
 S. transept is another and similar 
 monimient for the 3rd Lord la Warre, 
 d. 1554. This has been lately re- 
 stored, together with the entire 
 building. 
 
 OffingtoH (J. F. Daulniry, Esq.), 
 the ancient residence of the Lords de 
 la Warre, lies about 5 m., W. of the 
 village. Tlie house has been much 
 altered, and has at present no great 
 interest. In the neighbourhood is 
 Charman Dean (Mrs. Thwaytes). 
 
 A field pathway leads to the 
 church of Som-pting, 1 m. beyond 
 Broadwater (the keys shoTild be 
 inquired for at the vicarage before 
 tliech. is reached), well kiio\vn as an 
 arclijcological battle-field in the 
 question of Saxon or no Saxon. 
 Whether the shield be silver or gold.
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 16. — Sompting. — Cisslury. 
 
 295 
 
 liowever, Sompting Church is so re- 
 markahle as to demand the most 
 careful examination. Tlie tower, 
 with its peculiar gabled sjjire, greatly 
 resembles those of certain early 
 churches on the Rhine, wliich, it lias 
 been conjectured, were directly imi- 
 tated here at Sompting. The oh. 
 consists of nave, chancel, and tran- 
 septs. The portions said to be 
 Saxon are the tower, and part of tlie 
 exterior chancel wall (the E. end). 
 Tlie chancel appears to be Norm, 
 witli Peri5. windows inserted. Traces 
 of the original circular-headed win- 
 dows appear, however, in the wall. 
 Over the altar is a double aumbry 
 (tabernacle ?) — an imusual position. 
 On the S. side is a triangular headed 
 piscina with Trans. Norm, mould- 
 ings. Below is a Perp. tomb, the 
 occiipant of which is unknown. The 
 N. transept, opening in a lofty cir- 
 cular arch from the nave, is divided 
 into 2 aisles, by circular pillars, with 
 E. E. arches. The E. aisle is vaulted : 
 remark the singular corbel face. 
 The S. transept has a similar wide 
 entrance arch. Trans. Norm. At the 
 angles are pilasters with enriclied 
 capitals. The E. end above the 
 original altar has E. E. vaulting. 
 This transept is 4 steps lower than 
 the nave. On the walls are 2 remark- 
 able fragments of sculiJture, — the 
 Saviour with an open book, and the 
 Evang.list emblems in the border ; 
 and a kneeling bishop, under a cir- 
 cular arch, with pilasters of E. E. 
 character, his crozier behind him. 
 Compare the sculptures in Chichester 
 cathedral, said to have been brought 
 from Selsea. These are perhaps 
 somewhat later, though of sunilar 
 character. Tlie tower, ivithiii, has 
 E. E. window arches, and a circular 
 arch opening to the nave. This has 
 a tiiple abacus (comp. Eartham and 
 Amberlcy, both in Sussex), and a 
 rounded moulding runs round the 
 centre of tlie sotHt. Without, the 
 evidence of its Saxon origin is found 
 in tlie bands and pihisters of stone 
 
 work witJi wliich it is crossed and 
 re-crossed (comp. Wortli, in Sussex), 
 and which were probably imitated in 
 stone from more ancient timber erec- 
 tions. The long narrow capitals of 
 the central ribs should be noticed. 
 Mr. Hussey considers the tower to be 
 of 2 eras, the lower part Saxon, the 
 ujjper Norm., since it has Norm, orna- 
 ments, and " the continuation of tlio 
 central rib has a slight variation fiom 
 the line of that below." {Churches 
 of Sussex.) Tlie whole of Bosliam 
 tower should be compared. It should 
 be recollected that a date much 
 anterior to the Conquest, is in no 
 case claimed for so-called Saxon 
 buildings. 
 
 The church of Sompting was at an 
 early period granted to the Knights 
 Templars. A portion of the manor 
 was in the hands of the Abbey of 
 Fecamp ; and is still known as 
 Soiiiptiiig Atitiois. The house be- 
 longing to it stands on the opposite 
 side of the road, above tlie church, 
 and is to be regarded ^^^th venera- 
 tion, from the fact that Queen Caro- 
 line resided in it for a short time 
 before her departure for Berganii and 
 the East. 
 
 If the tourist be a good i;)edestrian 
 he may continue his walk along 
 the downs in the direction of Cissbury 
 (Cissa's beorg) about 2 m. — an en- 
 campment which, like Chichester, 
 probably derives its name from 
 Cissa, one of tlie sons of Ella. A 
 space of GO acres is here enclosed by 
 a single trench varying in dtiilh 
 from 8 to 12 ft., and a rampart of 
 considerable width and heiglit. It 
 follows the oval shape of the hill 
 crest, and was approached by roads 
 on the E., iS., and N. sides. Although 
 it perhajis bears Cissa's name, there 
 is some evidence of Boman occupa- 
 tion. Eoman coins and pottery have 
 been found in a garden at the foot 
 of the hill ; and in the centre of the 
 fort the foundations of a building 
 (prfctorium?) are traceable in dry 
 seasons. On the W. slope of the 
 
 p 2
 
 296 
 
 Route IG. — Tarring. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 iircn are some circular pits varying 
 ill diameter and de]jth, resembling 
 otliei-s at the Trundle above Good- ' 
 wood, at Wolstonbury, and at Hol- 
 liugbnry. They have been called the ; 
 sites of British villages, but their | 
 use is quite uncertain. The views 
 from Cissbury are very fine, and 
 are occasionally seen under singular 
 efiects, owing to the mists and the 
 marine atmosphere. " In the dis- 
 tance was Worthing .... like a 
 ruined city, Balbec or Palmyra, on ; 
 the edge "of the sea ; l)ut it might ^ 
 4is well have been a desert ; for it , 
 -was so variegated v\'itli streaks of 
 sunshine and of shade, that no one 
 ignorant of the place could have 
 ■determined whether it were sea or 
 sky that lay before us." (Soufhey's 
 life, vi. 32.5.) The camp commands 
 the coast from Beachey to Selsea, 
 and looks across the country to 
 Portus Magnus (Porchester). It is 
 the largest and most striking of the 
 Southdown earthworks. 
 
 Chanctonhury (see Ete. 18) lies 
 about 8 ra. from Cissbury, IST.E. The 
 tourist may walk to it the whole way 
 across the downs. The views across 
 the Weald N. are far wider and 
 grander than those from Cissbiuy. 
 The whole sweep of woodland is 
 commanded as far as tlie Surrey hills. 
 A carriage excursion may l)o made 
 from Wortliing to Clianctonbury, 
 Wiston, and Steyning (see Pite. IS), by 
 ihc road leading through the narrow 
 pass of Findon, seen stretching along 
 under Cissbury. Findon Cluu-ch con- 
 tains "two stone seats \nt\i a door 
 between them ;" parts are E. E. 
 Adjoining is Findon Plane (M. W. 
 Richar Ison, Esq.) ; and beyond, Mnn- 
 tUam (Marchioness of Batli). The 
 whole drive through the hills is pic- 
 turesque and pleasant. Storrinrjton, 
 the point for visiting Parham and 
 Amberley (see Etc. 18), may also Ije 
 reached "from Worthing by tliis road. 
 
 A second n-alk from \V(.)rthing may 
 be made to embrace Highdown Hill, 
 W. Tarring, and Salvington, ^\^th its 
 
 memorials of the " learned " Selden. 
 Highdown Hill itself may be more 
 quickly and easily reached from the 
 Goring station, 2^ m. In the walk. 
 Tarring, li m., is first reached. The 
 Church, which has a lofty spire, is 
 partly E. E. (nave and aisles ; the 
 nave very lofty, with clerestory win- 
 dows ; the Perp. E. window deserves 
 notice), and partly Perp. (chancel 
 and tower). There are some frag- 
 ments of old seating and a chest. 
 The window under the tower is a me- 
 morial to Eobert Southey, erected by 
 his eldest daughter, wife of the Eev. 
 J. W. Warter, vicar of Tarring. Since 
 the time of Athelstane, Tarring has 
 been a " peculiar " of the Arcli- 
 bishoi^s of Canterbury ; and some 
 portions of an archi episcopal palace 
 still exist in the national school- 
 house, which stands in the village 
 street, E. from the ch. " The southern 
 part is E. E., though it has e^^dently 
 been altered. The original windows 
 have light shafts, yntii capitals of 
 foliage at the sides. These are 13th 
 cent, work, but the tracery witli 
 which tlie windows are filled is 
 Perp. Tlie hall on the W. side of 
 the building is Perp. and an addi- 
 tion (the door may be original)." 
 (Hiissey.) Tliis palace is tradition- 
 ally said to have been frequently 
 occupied by Becket, and the Jig 
 orchard adjoining was raised from 
 some old stocks in the rectoiy garden, 
 sometimes said to have been planted 
 by him, and sometimes by Richard 
 de la Wych, the sainted Bishop 
 of Chichester. The biographer of the 
 latter saint distinctly asserts that he 
 " grafted fruit trees at Tarring with 
 his own hand." (Act Snnci. Aj). 
 ill.) The fig orchard is at all events 
 remarkable. It was planted in 1745, 
 and contains 100 trees which pro- 
 duce about 2000 dozen annually. 
 There are otliers at Somj)ting, which 
 place l>elonged to the Abbey of 
 Fe'eamp, from whence in all pro- 
 Ijability the first plants were im- 
 ported. The opposite Norman coast
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route IG. — Sah-iiigton. — IL'gJidovra Hill. 
 
 lias always been famous for its figs, 
 and Fecamp (Fici Campus?) had a 
 very ancient legend that the Sangraal 
 (the vessel used by our Lord at 
 liis Last Suj)per) was miraculously 
 floated to the coast under the abbey, 
 enclosed in the trunk of a tig-tree. 
 (See Le Eoux tie Liiicij, H. do Fe- 
 camp.) It is singuliir enough that a 
 bird apparently identical with the 
 Beccaflco (fig-eater) of the Gampagna, 
 migrates annually to Tarring and 
 Sompting aljout the time of the 
 ripening of the fruit. The flocks 
 remain five or six weeks, and then 
 disappear as they came, seaward. 
 They visit no other part of Sussex. 
 
 A range of buildings adjoining the 
 rectory, called "tlie Parsonage Row," 
 aflbrds good specimens of domestic 
 architectxire of the reigu of Henry 
 VI. 
 
 A field patli N., through the 
 ciinrchyard, leads to Salvinriton, 
 still in the manor of Tarring. At 
 the entrance of Salvington Street is 
 Lacies, the cottage in which Selden 
 was born, Dec. IGth, 1.584. His 
 father is said to have been a wander- 
 ing fiddler. On the Imtel of the 
 door a Latui tlistich is still sho^vn, 
 which it is asserted was composed 
 and carved there l>y liim when only 
 10 years old : — 
 
 " Gratus, honeste, milii, non claiuUir, iuito, 
 sedebis. 
 Fur abeas, non sum facta soluta tibi." 
 
 "Selden's learning," says Fuller, 
 "did not live in a lane, but traced all 
 tlie latitiule of arts and languages. ' 
 He passed to Hart Hall, Oxford, in 
 1598, and tlierc is no record of his 
 having returned in after life, to visit 
 the " lane " in which his learning at 
 all events first sprang np. His early 
 education was received at the free 
 school in Chichester. 
 
 From Salvington, passing the ruins 
 oi Durrinfjliiii Chnpel (without archi- 
 tectural interest), over Clapham Com- 
 mon, and by some pleasant, wood- 
 bordered lanes, the tourist reaches 
 
 IIi(jliiJovn. Hill, famous for the 
 miller's tomb. The view from the 
 hill is inctiu'csqne and full of beauty, 
 but is not so wide stretching as tliose 
 from Cisslnu'y and Chanctonbury. 
 An irregular earthwork, perluips of 
 the same date, crowns the summit. 
 Within it is the "miller's tomb," and 
 his windmill formerly occupied the 
 S.W. corner. The tomb is a flat 
 slal> raised on brick-work, having on 
 it rudely carved figures of Time and 
 Death, and some edifying verses, com- 
 posed by John Olliver the miller 
 liimself, who erected his tomb 30 
 years before his death, and lived for 
 the same period witli his coflin under 
 his bed. Notwithstanding all this, 
 however, he is said, like his famous 
 brother of the Dee, to have been 
 sufficiently "jolly," and to have 
 looked with no unlriendly eye on the 
 doings of the smugglers who theji 
 infested the coast. He died in 1793 : 
 and his coflin, at his funeral, was 
 carried round the field by persons 
 dressed in white, and attended by a 
 company of young women attired 
 like Tilburina's confidante, in white 
 muslin, one of whom read a sermon 
 over the grave. Tlie cottage on the 
 N. side of the liill is on tlie site of 
 tliat formerly occupied by the miller, 
 and is now in the hands of his de- 
 scendants, who supply tea, shrimps, 
 and boilmg water to the numerous 
 l)ilgrims of tlie hill. 
 
 The Clapham Woods, below the 
 hill, are fine. Rising from them is 
 Cudlv Goring (Sir G. B. Pecliell, 
 Bart.), long the residence of the 
 Slielleys. Further N. is Clapham 
 Churcii, Tr. Norm, with some Shelley 
 tombs (1550) and brasses (152G). S. 
 of the churchyard stands a large 
 farmhouse bearing evidence of some 
 antiquity. 
 
 Fnjiii the station at, 13 m.. Goring, 
 Highdown Hill may be visited. 
 
 15^ m. Aiiguicring has a small Tr. 
 Norm. Cliurch. There were formerly 
 2 churches here, for East and West 
 Angmering, close adjoining; that of
 
 298 
 
 Route 1 6. — Littlehampton. — Arundel. 
 
 h'ect. II. 
 
 West Angmei-in,<x alone remains. 
 Angimring Park (Dnke of Norfolk), 
 in tlieN. part of the parish, has some 
 fine woodland scenery. The colony 
 of herons, llo^^ established at Par- 
 ham, migrated from hero. At New 
 Place in this parish (now partitioned 
 into labourers' dwellings) were born 
 on 3 snccessive Sundays the 3 sons 
 of Sir Edward Palmer, all 3 knighted 
 by Henry VIII. , and as remarkable 
 for the circumstances of their birth, 
 as the 3 Shirleys for their adventiu'es. 
 At some distance rt. of the line is 
 seen Putcham Place (Colonel Paine). 
 In the parish of Poling, N., is a wild- 
 fowl decoy belonging to the Duke of 
 Norfolk ; and near tlie ch. was a com- 
 mandery of the knights of St. John, 
 the chapel of wliich has been con- 
 verted into a modern dwelling. The 
 Downs are visil)le all along the line, 
 but on this, the S. side, they are less 
 picturesque. 
 
 The termination in " ing,'' which 
 occurs so frequently in Sussex, and 
 especially along the coast (Sompting, 
 Tarring, Goring, Poling, &c.), is, it 
 should here be mentioned, the Saxon 
 patronymic, and indicates tlie site of 
 a " mark," or Saxon settlement, 
 founded by the tribe whose name is 
 .still retained. Thus Sompting is the 
 settlement of the Somtiugas ; Poling 
 of the PoUngas, or "sons of Pol," — 
 the Angl(j-Saxon name of the north- 
 ern deity Balder. Tlie first part of 
 the word preserves the name of the 
 hero or deity from whom the set- 
 tlers of the " mark "' claimed descent. 
 For ample details see Kemhle's 
 Saxons in England, i., ch. 2, and 
 Appendix. 
 
 At 18 m. the Arundel and Little- 
 liampton Station, omnibuses are in 
 waiting for either place. Little- 
 hampton (about 3 m. S.) lies about 
 f m. from the mouth of the Arun, but 
 was the ancient haven of Arundel. 
 The Empress INIatilda landed lure 
 in 1139, on her way to Arundel 
 Castle. It is still the port of the 
 central districts of Sussex and Sur- 
 
 rey, since it communicates, by means 
 of a canal, with Arundel and Ports- 
 mouth ; whilst the Arun, above 
 Arimdel, has been rendered navi- 
 gable, and connected with the Wey, 
 thus opeiung a course to Guildford, 
 and thence to the Thames. Little- 
 hampton has lately become a water- 
 ing-i:)lace of moderate pretensions. 
 The neighl louring country, though 
 level, is well wooded ; and the walk 
 all the way to Arundel is through 
 elm-shadowed lanes of much beauty. 
 There are lure sands, along which 
 carriages may drive, extending to 
 Worthiiig. The river is famous for 
 the Anmdel mullet, a fish which has 
 attractions for bipeds of more than 
 one description. The o.sprey, called 
 in Hampshire the "mullet hawk," is 
 frequently seen on this coast dm-ing 
 the best season for the fi.sh. Baillies 
 Court, on the W. side of the Arun, 
 anciently belonged to the Norman 
 abbey of Seez, and seems to have 
 been so named from liaving been 
 the residence of the bailifl'. 
 
 The castle and town of Arundel 
 are about 2 m. from the station. The 
 road has some good points of view, 
 one especially, from which the E. 
 front of the castle is well seen above 
 the river. The town consists mainly 
 of one very steep street, momiting up- 
 ward from the Arun to the castle, 
 one of the ancient fortresses which 
 guarded the river embouchitres all 
 along this coast ; but its history, its 
 striking position, and its lines of 
 Fitzalans and Howards, whose bluest 
 of blue blood cannot be outazured by 
 Spain or by Germany, have invested it 
 with a more than ordinary intere-st. 
 The inliabited portion of the castle 
 is never shown, the best excuse for 
 which is to he found in the closo 
 vicinity of so many watering places. 
 The keep, far more interesting, is 
 open to the public on Mondays 
 and Fridays. Cards of admission 
 are to be procured at the Norfolk 
 Arms. Besides the castle, the objects 
 of interest in Armrdel are the Church,
 
 Sussex, 
 
 Route 16. — Anindd — The Castle. 
 
 299 
 
 and some scanty remains of the 
 Hospice, or " Domus Dei," seen in 
 crossing the bridge at the foot of 
 the to\vn. The castle i^ark, and 
 adjoining scenery of the Downs, are 
 fuil of beauty, and deserve the most 
 careful exploration. There is a large 
 and good inn (the Norfolk Arms) in 
 the town, where tourists may remain 
 a day or two with advantage, and 
 where carriages may be iDrocured for 
 crossing tlie comitry, by Bignor, to 
 Petworth — an excursion to be highly 
 recommended. 
 
 Arundel first occurs in the will 
 of King Alfred ; and a castle here is 
 mentioned in Domesday. The name 
 (of course from the river Arun — 
 probably a British word) has been 
 ingeniously coiuiected ^^ith Uiron- 
 delle, the traditional name of Bevis 
 of Hampton's steed, which distin- 
 guished giant was, it is said, long 
 warder here at tlie gate of the Earls 
 of Armidel, who built a tower for 
 him, and gave him 2 hogsheads of 
 beer a week, a whole ox, and bread 
 and mustard in proportion. "Mor- 
 glay," Bevis's sword, was long shown 
 in the armoury, and a mound in the 
 park is called his grave. "Heavy 
 waggon horses in Sussex are still 
 sometimes pleasantly called Swal- 
 low." {M. A. Lom-r.) The earldom 
 of Arundel, witli tlie castle, was con- 
 ferred after the conquest on Koger 
 de IMontgomery, who commanded at 
 Hastings the central body of Breton 
 and other auxiliaries. The position 
 of the castle on this southern coast 
 was an important one ; and the 
 lands bestowed with it upon Earl 
 Roger comprised 3 lordsliips, 10 
 hundreds with their courts and suits 
 of service, 18 parks, and 77 manors. 
 His 2 sons, Hugh and Robert, suc- 
 cessively held Anmdel until 1118, 
 when it was granted to tlie house 
 of Albini. The last Earl, Hugh de 
 Albini, died in 1243, without issue ; 
 and the earldom then passed to John 
 Fitzalan, through his marriage with 
 Isabel, sister and co-heir of Earl 
 
 Hugh. The Fitzalans held it till 
 1580, rather more than 3 centuries, 
 when Henry Fitzalan, last carl, died, 
 leaving only one surviving daughter, 
 Mary, wlio b}' her marriage with 
 Tliomas Howard, 4th Duke of Nor- 
 folk, brouglit the Earldom of Arundel 
 to that famous house, in which it has 
 ever since remauied. Henry Howard, 
 son of the 5th Earl of the Howard 
 family, siicceeded to the Dukedom 
 of Norfolk, and died (7th Duke) in 
 1701. The present (13th) Duke is 
 Premier Duke and Earl, and Here- 
 ditary Earl Marshal of England. 
 
 Arundel Castle was first besieged 
 in 1102 by Henry I., to whom it was 
 surrendered by Robert de Belesme, 
 son of Roger tlae first Norman Earl. 
 In 1139 the Empress Maud was re- 
 ceived here bj' her step-mother, Alice 
 of Louvain, widow of Henry I. The 
 castle was at once besieged by 
 Stephen, and the Empress retired to 
 Bristol. The third and most im- 
 portant siege was tliat by tlie Parlia- 
 mentary troops under Sir W. Waller 
 in Dec. 1G43. This lasted 17 days, 
 and the castle was finally surren- 
 dered on Jan. 6. " We have taken," 
 wrote Waller to Essex, " 17 colours 
 of foot, and 2 of horse, and 1000 
 prisoners one with anotlier. " During 
 the siege, artillery played on the 
 castle from tlie steeple of the cliurch, 
 and the greater part of the building 
 was reduced to a mass of ruin. It 
 remained neglected and all but de- 
 serted until 1720, when the 8th 
 Duke of Norfolk repaired some por- 
 tions, in which he occasionally re- 
 sided. The present building, how- 
 ever, was erected by the lOtli duke, 
 and commenced in 1791. For the 
 most part, the duke seems to have 
 been his own architect. All that 
 can be said for the result is, that the 
 designs are not worse than other 
 Gothic of that period. There is of 
 coru'se a jumble of styles ; but a 
 certain gi'andeur is produced ))y tlic 
 great masses of building. Figinxs 
 of Hospitality and Liberty surmount
 
 300 
 
 Route 16. — Arundel Castle. 
 
 Sect. il. 
 
 the entrance, and against one of tlio 
 walls is placed a surprising bas-relief 
 representing ' Alfred instituting trial 
 by jury on Salisbury Plain!" The 
 interior, which is quite inaccessible 
 to ordinary toiu-ists, was also arranged 
 and designed by the 10th Duke. 
 
 In the Great Hall are 8 or 
 modern painted windows, represent- 
 ing the signing of Magna Charta, 
 and figures of the Barons connected 
 with it. Tlie enamel with wliicli 
 tliey are loaded gives them much 
 the eft'ect of coloured blinds. Tlie 
 Library is lined tln-oughout with ma- 
 lioganj', and is fitted with bookcases 
 of tlie same wood — lieavy in spite of 
 its splendour. 
 
 The most remarkable pictures 
 wiiich the Castle contains are the fol- 
 lowhig portraits : — Cliristinc, daugli- 
 ter of Cln'istian II. of Denmark, and 
 widow of Francesco Sforza, Duke of 
 Milan : Holbein. This portrait was 
 executed for Hemy VIII., with a 
 view to becoming acquainted with 
 the lady's charms liefore offering 
 her his hand. (See for the negotia- 
 tions about this marriage, Froiide, H. 
 E. iii.) The 4th Duke of Norfolk, 
 with staff of office, beheaded 1572 : 
 Holbein. "Among the various ex- 
 amples of tliis picture, this is one of 
 the best." — Waagen. Hemy How- 
 ard, Earl of Arundel ; Thomas Hnw- 
 ard, Earl of Arundel, and his Coun- 
 tess ; Thomas Howard and his son 
 Lord Maltravers ; Henry Howard : 
 Vandyck. Hemy Howard, Earl of 
 Surrey (beheaded by Hemy VIII. 
 1547) ; whole length in black, under 
 an arch, his liand on a lirolcen pillar : 
 William Strute or Street, an artist who 
 formed himself entirely on Holbein. 
 
 Visitors to the Keej) must apply 
 at the principal entrance lodge at the 
 tojj of the town, where tlie modern 
 successor of Bevis will receive their 
 cards of admission. This lodge is a 
 recent erection, and the arched gate- 
 way of the inner quadrangle was 
 commenced in 1809. Within tliis, 
 on one side is the modern castle, 
 
 and on the other a series of steps 
 and narrow passages lead to the 
 venerable Keep, the view of wliich 
 from the quadrangle is striking. 
 
 Tlie Clock Tower, tlu'ough which 
 the ascent to the Keep commences, 
 may perhaps have some Norm, por- 
 tions in the lower part ; but the 
 upper is much . later. It was the 
 ancient entrance to the inner court, 
 and abutted on the fosse without. 
 Passing through this tower, those of 
 tlie outer entrance become visible 
 below. These were the work of 
 Richard Fitzalan (d. 1302j. They 
 are not accessible to visitors. Each 
 tower has 4 stages, and souterrains 
 15 ft. below the fosse, the walls of 
 which are marlctd witli rude draw- 
 ings and inscriptions ; among them 
 are tlie words " I pray to God if hit 
 him please delyvere us all out of 
 distress." The Keej:) is reached by 
 a long flight of steps. The entrance, 
 a square tower, with portcullis, 
 grooves, and machicoules, is also 
 given to Richard Fitzalan. 
 
 Tlie Keep itself, although it ex- 
 hibits some herring-bone masonry, 
 has no pretensions whatever to rank 
 as a Saxon building, although a 
 date before the Conquest is con- 
 stantly assigned to it. It is circidar, 
 and to all appearance late Norm. 
 (Comp. the Keep of Windsor.) On 
 the S.E. side is a circular doorway, 
 at present inaccessible, with Norm, 
 moulding. The greater part of the 
 Keep was faced wath Caen stone, 
 now hidden by the ivy. The walls 
 vary in tliickness from 8 to 10 ft. 
 Tlie corbels and fireplaces in the 
 wall within marli the position of 
 the ancient chambers, which were 
 lighted from the inner side. In the 
 centre of the Keep a shaft descends 
 to a sul)terraneous apartment, pro- 
 bably tlie store-room of the garrison. 
 " Tlie roof is pointed, formed of chalk, 
 and strengtliened by ribs of stone ; 
 the doorcase is distinguished by the 
 flat label head, which is observable 
 in the windows of the gatehouse.
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 10. — Arundel Castle. 
 
 301 
 
 and the whole is evidently contempo- 
 rary witli that strnctui-e." {Tivmeij.) 
 Tlie raiuparts are gained by a wind- 
 ing staircase. Immediately over the 
 entrance to the Keeii is tlie window 
 of St. Martm's Oratory (Norm.), 
 commanding a wide view S.E. Ob- 
 serve t!ie funnel-shaped machiconle 
 in the tioor, for pouring lieated mis- 
 siles on the heads of assailants. From 
 the round of tlie ramparts a good 
 notion.maybe obtamed of the strengtli 
 and position of the castle — and of 
 the Keep itself, the kernel of the 
 ancient fortress. The mound is 
 chieily artificial ; and the heiglit 
 from tlie bottom of the fosse is 96 ft. 
 E., 103 ft. W. The keep rises from 
 the centre of the castle enclosures, a 
 somewhat luiusual position. The 
 entire si^ace within the walls is about 
 5.J acres. The general form of the 
 castle, like that of Windsor, is oblong. 
 The elevation on which it stands is one 
 of the extreme spm-s of the S. Downs, 
 hanging over the Arun ; and the tide 
 anciently flowed nearly up to its 
 walls. A sharp fall in the hill-side, 
 fortified it natiu-ally N.E. and S.E. 
 A strong wall prt)tected the S., and 
 on the other side was a deep fosse, 
 with a double line of wall. The 
 same position may have successively 
 seen British and Saxon fortifica- 
 tions ; but the great strength and 
 size of the present castle, and the 
 care with which it was defended, are 
 due to the importance of the site in 
 later times ; when it guarded one 
 of the great Sussex "liigh roads " to 
 and from Normandy, and when the 
 line of the coast was exposed to con- 
 stant ravages from French ships and 
 pirates. 
 
 The views from the Keep stretch 
 away on all sides, and amply repay 
 the trouble of clindnng to it. 
 Nothing can be more beautiful than 
 the fleeting lights, as they sweep 
 seaward across the plain through 
 which the Arun winds, or along the 
 wooded .sweeps of the upper park. 
 W. the landscape extends to the I.sle 
 
 of Wight, and the spire of Chichester 
 Cathedral rises as a landmark in 
 the centre. Highdown Hill is con- 
 spicuous S.E., and further N. Brup- 
 ham with its chalk pit. The plea- 
 sure-ground lying within the walls, 
 under the Keep, was formerly a 
 garden. It is now disposed in Ver- 
 sailles fashion with btrceaux and 
 cabinets de verdure. An a2iricot-tree 
 covers no less than lUOO ft. of the 
 old Fitzalan walls. The barbacan 
 tower at the corner is called Bevis's 
 Tower. It is perhaps late Nomi. 
 and has recently been restored as a 
 sort of garden-house. There was a 
 covered way communicating between 
 it and the Keep. This was the loftiest 
 of many square towers, open within 
 like those of Dover, which strength- 
 ened the whole line of the outer 
 walls. 
 
 The Keep is covered with a close 
 netting for the sake of a colony of 
 owls, which inhabit the niches and 
 flreplaces. These are chiefly eagle 
 owls (Bul)O maximus), an unrivalled 
 living collection. " The fact that 
 these l;)irds have here not only per- 
 formed the duties of incubation, but 
 even reared their young occasionally, 
 the only instance, I believe, on record 
 of any bird of i^rey breeding when 
 deprived of its liberty, would alone 
 prove their perfect reconciliation to 
 the very qualified captivity to which 
 they are subjected." {A. E. Knox). 
 It is said that Lord Tluuiow (himself 
 unknown) was once shewn a name- 
 sake of his own among these owls. 
 " We sometimes," said the guide, 
 " call him The Chancellor, and some- 
 times Lord Eldon, "cause he's so very 
 wise." There are now here (1856) 
 11 eagle owls, and one woodcock or 
 short-eared owl. The Bubo maximus 
 is not an English species, though said 
 to have been shot hi Sussex. 
 
 The principal aparhnents of the 
 
 ancient castle were of course situated 
 
 I below the Keep, in the inner coiu-t. 
 
 I Some ]iortions of these were biult by 
 
 lUchard Fitzalan, present at Cressy 
 
 i> 3
 
 502 
 
 Routs IG. — Arundel Church. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 who applied to tliis purpose the 
 ransom of his prisoners. Tlie Great 
 Hall was bnilt at the same time. 
 Hollar engraved a view of it before 
 the siege, when it was entirely de- 
 stroyed. Some portions of the an- 
 cient buildings exist in the S. front 
 and in the E. tower of the present 
 castle. The vault under the last is 
 prol)ably of great antiquity. It 
 served as the castle dungeon. 
 
 The Parish Chnn-h of St. Nicholas, 
 with its sujierb Armidel tombs, is 
 scarcely less interesting than the 
 castle which it closely adjoins. A 
 priory attached to the Benedictine 
 Abbey of St. Martin of Seez, in Nor- 
 mandy, was estaljlishcd in Arundel 
 l)y the first Norman Earl, Eoger de 
 Montgomery, founder also of the 
 l^arent abbey. In 1380 Eichard Fitz- 
 alan, the fierce opponent of Richard 
 II., beheaded on Tower Hill in 1397, 
 established the College of the Holy 
 Trinity " for a master and 12 canons." 
 The earlier priory of Seez became 
 merged in tliis : and nearly in the 
 same year with its foundation Earl 
 Richard commenced the rebuilding 
 of the parish chiu'ch, with which the 
 chapel of this nev/ college was to 
 be eoimected. The i3resent church 
 therefore dates from 1380. It has 
 a central tower, and the college 
 chapel is at the E. end, beyond the 
 chancel. N. of the former is the 
 Lady Chapel, of nearly equal dimen- 
 sions. In the N. aisle of the nave 
 are 2 ancient wall painthigs, pro- 
 bably coeval with the church ; one 
 of which represents the Seven Deadly 
 Sins, the other the Seven Works of 
 Mercy. The quatrefoil clerestory 
 windows are very unusual, and should 
 be remarked. The other curiosities 
 in the nave are the seats for the cor- 
 poration and its ladies ; and wluit 
 seems to be the ancient stone pidpit, 
 encircling a pillar; now, however, 
 converted into the vicarial pew, duly 
 shelfed and benched, and not imcom- 
 fortably cushiotu d. It lias 2 small 
 arches opening in front, and a groined 
 
 roof. The altar is in the S. aisle. 
 The organ, fiUuig the old arch be- 
 tween the Parochial Chmx-h and the 
 College Chapel, is said to be fine. 
 The chapel itself, beyond, is large and 
 lofty, and has evidently been of great 
 magnificence. There are 5 Arundel 
 tombs in this chapel. The earliest 
 is that in the centre, upon which are 
 effigies of Thomas Earl of Arundel 
 (d. 1415), son of the foimder of the 
 college, and of his Countess, Beatrix, 
 daughter of King John of Portugal. 
 The horse at the earl's feet is the 
 Fitzalau cognizance. The comitess's 
 robe is guarded by 2 lapdogs. lu 
 niches round the tomb are 20 figures 
 of priests, each holding an open 
 book ; and the rim is encircled by 
 40 shields, once charged with all the 
 quarterings of Fitzalan and Portu- 
 gal. This Fitzalan, who had been 
 deprived of Ids inheritance by 
 Eichard II., was restored by "Harry 
 of Bolingbroke." Under the most 
 easterly of the 3 arches which 
 di\ide this from the Lady Chapel, 
 is the cenotaijh of John Fitzalan, 
 17th earl (d. 1434). His figiu-e 
 is in plate armour, with a close 
 surcoat and a collar of SS. An 
 emaciated body stretched on a shroud 
 lies below. The earl hunself was 
 bm-ied at Beauvais. He was taken 
 prisoner, after receiving a mortal 
 wound, during an attack on the 
 Castle of Gerberois, near Beauvais, 
 and died a few days after. S. of the 
 altar is the very fine chantiy tomb 
 of William, 19th earl (d. 1488), and 
 of his countess. The effigies pro- 
 perly belongmg to it lie on the tomb 
 o]:>posite ; — that of Thomas and 
 William Fitzalan. The dress of the 
 Countess Joan is especially worth 
 notice. The wonderful structvu'e on 
 her head is rare in marble, and does 
 not occur very frequently in brasses. 
 Remark here the twisted pilasters 
 indicating the approach of the Re- 
 naissance, more completely developed 
 in the De la Warre tombs at Broad- 
 water and Boxgrove. This " puis-
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 16. — Arundel. 
 
 ]03 
 
 sante, noble, and virtuous carle," \Yas 
 the pati'ou of Caxtou t!ie printer. 
 On the N. side, opposite, is the tonib 
 of Thomas (d. 1524) and William 
 (d. 1514), successively earls of 
 Armidel, son and grandson of the 
 19th Earl, William. It has a rich 
 but much injured canopy. Above 
 Earl William's Chantry (S. side) is 
 a tablet in memory of Hemy Earl of 
 Anmdel, last of the Fitzalans, who 
 " pie et su.l^iter in Domino obdor- 
 mivit," 1579. 
 
 Tliere are no mouimients or in- 
 scriptions for any of the Howard 
 family, although many are mterred 
 her& Among tliem is Thomas, 2ud 
 Howard Earl of Arundel (d. 1646), 
 the friend of Evelyn, and the col- 
 lector of the Anmdelian marbles. 
 His body was brought hero from 
 Padua, where he died. 
 
 These tine monuments deseiTC 
 very careful attention, as illustrating 
 the changes in art during a period 
 of a centiuy and a half. Their shat- 
 tered condition is due partly to the 
 soldiers of Waller's army, who were 
 quartered in this chapel durhig the 
 .siege of the castle, and partly to the 
 removal of the carved roof in 1782, 
 when the heavy timbers were suf- 
 fered to fall below at random. 
 
 The Lady Chapel is divided from 
 that of the College by 3 pointed 
 arches. In the middle is the j^laiu 
 altar-tomb, in Sussex marble, of 
 John Fitzalan, 16th Earl. Its brasses 
 have been removed. Adjoining is 
 a good modem monument in black 
 marble for Lord Henry Howard, 
 brother of the late duke. It was 
 executed in Eome. In this chapel, 
 the original stone altar, with its 
 crosses, remains. The window above 
 has some fragments of stained glass, 
 among which is a figure absurdly 
 said to be that of " Jockey of Nor- 
 folk." The Bras'ses still remaining, 
 and worth notice, are, Sir Eden 
 Ertham, 1st Master of the College, 
 14:32 ; and a Knight and Lady, 141S. 
 Behind the Lady Chapel, a room 
 
 opens to the castle gardens. The 
 exterior windows and parapet on 
 this side have been restored. The 
 parapet is peculiar, and should be 
 noticed. Similar care, it is to be 
 hoped, will be extended to the in- 
 terior of both chapels, the present 
 comhtion of which is disgraceful to 
 all concerned. 
 
 Adjoining the churchyard are some 
 remains of the college buildings, 
 originally a quadrangle, one side 
 of which was foinied by the chapel. 
 The principal gateway, at the S. E. 
 angle, remains. Tlie college oc- 
 cupied the same site as the more 
 ancient prioiy. It had the right 
 of sanctuar}', and the register of 
 Bishop Kede of Chichester contains 
 the record of a very severe iJenance 
 passed on the constable of the 
 castle, for havmg forcibly removed 
 a prisoner, who had escaped from 
 his dungeon and seized the great 
 sanctuary-ring attached to the col- 
 lege door. 
 
 The fragments of the Maison Dieu, 
 at the foot of the town, need not long- 
 delay the tourist. It was ibunded by 
 Earl Eichard, builder of the church 
 and college, about 1380. It provided 
 for 20 poor men. The building, a 
 quadrangle, with chapel and refec- 
 torj% was destroyed by Waller's 
 troops, who were quartered in it. 
 The adjoining bridge was built from 
 part of the ruhis in 1742. The whole 
 seems to have been of chalk. 
 
 Besides the Keep, toiuists are sup- 
 plied at the Norfolk Arms with 
 tickets for seemg the Baby. This, 
 with ecclesiastical faim buildings 
 attached, resembling small Norman 
 chapels, is about ^ m. from the 
 town, and was built in 1847. It is 
 pleasant enough in itself, with white 
 and blue tiles and a fountain, but is 
 not worth a special visit. The stran- 
 ger will do better to devote his time 
 to the Parlt, liis wandeiings in which 
 will be amply repaid. A gate opens 
 into it, a short chstance beyond the 
 dairy, and close to Swiaboume Lake,
 
 304 
 
 Route 1 G. — Leominster. — Bognor. 
 
 Sect. TI. 
 
 a reed-growu piece of water of no 
 great size. From the higher end of 
 the lake is a fine view of tlie castle. 
 The best point here, however, and 
 nearly that from wliich Turner's 
 beautiful drawing was made (Rivers 
 ofEiKjland ; the drawing is now in the 
 National Collection), is from the brow 
 of the hill N. of the "Copyhold," 
 nearly the highest part of the park. 
 The Castle rises in the middle dis- 
 tance, oak and beech woods sweep 
 down over the heights to the lake 
 below, and far otf the sea fringes the 
 vride landscape, rich with homesteads 
 and cattle-dotted meadows. Tlie park 
 contains about 11(10 acres, and has 
 " good store of harts.' The coinitry 
 beyond ojiens to the high groimd 
 over Bignor and Sutton (see post, 
 Excursion from Cliichester — Bignor), 
 whence the grand views over the 
 Weald, N., are perhaps imrivalled in 
 the south of England. At North Slolce, 
 on the Aruu, visible from this part of 
 the park, an ancient British canoe, 
 made from a hoUowed oaken tnmk, 
 and now in the 13ritisli IMuseum, was 
 discovered in 1884, G ft. below the 
 level of the soil, and 150 yds. from 
 the liver. A second canoe was found 
 in 1857, at Warruugcamp, 1 m. from 
 South Stoke, in widening a ditch, 
 locally called a " rife," leading to 
 the Arun. Like the other, it is the 
 hollowed truidf of an oak, with 
 insertions at the edge, forming seats 
 for 3 men. 
 
 In the chalk at Burpham, 2J m. 
 N.E. of Arundel, are found thin 
 layers, " composed of an aggregation 
 of detached ossicula of star-fishes." 
 
 Tlie Qnu'cli of Leotainster, not far 
 from the Arundel Station, deserves 
 notice. It contains Tr. Xorm. and 
 E. E. portions. " The chancel-arch 
 is very lofty, with projecting abaci 
 dividing the piers into two stages." 
 {Uusse;/.) There was a small Saxon 
 mumery here, whicli subsequeutly 
 became a priory of Benedictine nuns, 
 attached to the abbey of Alme- 
 nesches, near Seez, in Normandy. 
 
 From the Ford Station (2 m. from 
 Arundel) may be visited Tortington 
 Church (1 m.), which has some rich 
 Norm, work ; and ^ m. beyond it 
 the refectory of Tortington Priory, 
 founded for Black Canons, temp. 
 John. It is now a barn, and shows 
 E. E. arches. 1 m. S. of Ford is 
 the very interesting Church of Clim- 
 piiig. It is E. E. with some pecu- 
 liarities. There are circular windows 
 (above lancets) in the W. gable, the 
 chancel gable, and that of the N. 
 ti-ansept. The chancel is large and 
 striking. The whole seems to be of 
 one date. The Tower, at the end 
 of S. ti-ansept, is Norm., and appa- 
 rently belonged to an earlier church ; 
 narrow windows are opened in its 
 buttresses. Eeraark the ornaments 
 on either side of the door, — a small 
 sunken circle and a diamond. In 
 the chancel are two oak chests, one 
 of w'hich, with very shallow cai-ving, 
 may perliaps be E. E., and coeval 
 with the ch. The Norman abbeys 
 of Almenesches and St. Martin at 
 Seez both held lands in Climping 
 mider Eoger de Montgomery, and 
 the church may possibly have been 
 erected by one or 1)oth. 
 
 The church at Yapton (1 m.), the 
 next station, is mainly E. E., and has 
 a singidar font of black gianite, cir- 
 cular, with crosses on the sides. The 
 tower has been considered Saxon, 
 and should be noticed. 
 
 [At Woodgate Station (3 m.) om- 
 nilnises are in waiting for Bognor, 
 which lies about -4 m. S. Bognor has 
 a strong family likeness to the other 
 small watering-places on this coast. 
 It is quiet, and the climate is at least 
 as mild as that of "Wortliing. There 
 are the usual lodging-houses and 
 hotels, the best being the Norfolk 
 Hotel ; the Sussex ; and the Clare- 
 mont. The surrounding coiuitry is 
 perfectly iiat, Ijut there are some in- 
 teresting points for visitors. Pag- 
 ham, the Hushing Well, and Selsea 
 Church may be visited fromhere. (See 
 post; Excursion from Chichester.)
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route IG. — Chichester. 
 
 305 
 
 Close to the shore, and extending 
 about 2 m. into the sea, are the so- 
 called Bofjnor roclis, visible only at 
 low water, and sandstone fragments 
 of a deposit " which, even within 
 the memory of man, formed a line of 
 low cliffs along the coast. 
 
 " The B((rn rocks, between Selsea 
 and Bognor ; the Houndgate and 
 Street rocks, W. ; and the Vivan rocks 
 S. of Selsea, are portions of the same 
 bed. The fossils are similar to those 
 which occm* in tlio London clay. 
 Some of the polished slabs are very 
 beautiful." (Maufell.) 
 
 At Felphaiii (about 1 m.) is the 
 villa to which the poet Hayley retired 
 after parting with Earthani. It 
 stands toward the centre of the vil- 
 lage. The church has portions of 
 various dates. In the clun-chyard is 
 the tomb of Cyril Jackson, dean of 
 Ch. Ch., Oxford, and the early pre- 
 ceptor of George IV., who visited 
 him here when dying. Within the 
 church is a marble tablet for Hayley, 
 who was buried here. The inscrip- 
 tion is by Mrs. Opie.] 
 
 From Woodgate the railway passes 
 through a rich level district to 
 
 Cliichester (Pop. 8331. Ian, The 
 Dolphin ; excellent, and not without 
 a certain gravity befitting an episco- 
 pal city). 
 
 Chichestei-, the ancient Eegnimi, 
 betraj's its Roman origin hi its 4 
 nearly straight streets, answering to 
 the points of the compass, and meet- 
 ing at the elaborate market cross, E. 
 of the Cathedral. The town is quiet, 
 and, with the exception of the catlie- 
 dral and the cross, is distinguished 
 by no marked architectural features. 
 The view from East Street, lookhig 
 W. toward the Cathedral, is, how- 
 ever, very striking, and should be 
 looked out i'or toward smiset. Other 
 good points will be found in Canon 
 Lane, and in West Street, beyond 
 the cathedral. Chichester stands on 
 a perfect level, and tlie only general 
 views arc to be liad from the tower 
 
 of the campanile, or better still, 
 from that of the cathedral, where 
 the city is seen spread out like a 
 map, its red roofs intersected by large 
 trees and gardens. An excellent 
 distant view of the cathedral, l)acked 
 by the Goodwood Downs, is gained 
 from the road S. of the town, after 
 passing the railway station. 
 
 Berjnum, the city of Cogidubnus, 
 king of the Regni, and legate in 
 Britain of th.e Emperor Claudius, 
 lies V>uried beneath the present city. 
 iMosaic pavements, coins, and urns, 
 occur in all directions. In the grave- 
 yard of St. Andrew's Church, in East 
 Street, the coffins are laid on an 
 ancient tessalated iloor. The walls 
 of the Church of St. Olave in North 
 Street were found, on its restoration, 
 full of Iioman tile ; and in this street 
 also was discovered in 1720, the re- 
 markable inscription now preserved 
 at Goodwood, one of the most in- 
 teresting relathig to Iioman Britain. 
 It records the dedication of a temple, 
 by the College of Smiths, to Nei^tune 
 and Minerva, the two great patrons of 
 handicraftsmen (see post, Goodwood) ; 
 lint its great interest arises from its 
 forming a link in the chain of evi- 
 dence, whicli seems to connect Reg- 
 nimi with the Claudia and Pudens of 
 Martial and of St. Paul's 2nd Epistle 
 to Timothy. For a sketch of the 
 romance which has been built on 
 these authorities, perfectly consistent 
 with dates and with historical pro- 
 bability, see ' Quart. Bev.,' vol. xcvii. 
 
 Regnum stood at the junction of 
 the Roman "Stane Street," running 
 N. by Bignor toward London, with 
 another line that passed W. to Portus 
 Magiius (Porchester). Hence it wag 
 at once attacked by the earliest 
 Teutonic settlers, who landed on the 
 coast 7 m. S., at a place called from 
 one of Ella'.s sons, Cymensore (now 
 Keynor) ; and its Saxon name, Cissa's 
 master — Cissa's camp — Clu'ctiester, 
 seems to have been derived from 
 one of the 3 sons of Ella, the first 
 recorded colonist of the S. Saxons.
 
 306 
 
 Route \Q. ^-Chichester — the Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 It is but little iioticed during the 
 Saxon period. The Conqueror gave 
 it, with S3 manors in the rajDes of 
 Arundel and Chichester, to Roger do 
 Montgomery, Earl of Alen90u, who 
 built a castle within the walls. The 
 ancient bishopric of the S. Saxons 
 was at the same tune removed from 
 Selsey, and a cathedral built at Chi- 
 chester (see post, Selsey). The N.E. 
 quarter of the city was appropriated 
 to the castle and its belongings, of 
 which no trace remains. The church- 
 men had the S.W. quarter. The city 
 walls were restored and repaired at 
 different times, but were not of suffi- 
 cient strength to enable Chichester 
 to stand out for more than 10 days, 
 when it was besieged by Sir William 
 Waller in 1643. The Parliament 
 troops were greatly favoured on this 
 occasion. " Although it rained hea- 
 vily half an hour after the town was 
 taken, no ram had fallen while the 
 besiegers were ' lying abroad ' pre- 
 viously." The soldiers were thus in 
 good heart for doing the work that 
 followed. They "pulled down the 
 idolatrous images from the market- 
 cross ; they brake down the organ 
 in the cathedral, and dashed the 
 pipes with their i^ole-axes ; crying in 
 scoff, ' harke how the organs goe ! '" 
 and after the thanksgiving sermon, 
 also in the cathedral, they " ran up 
 and down with their swords drawn, 
 defacing the monuments of the dead, 
 and hacking the seats and stalls." 
 This is the solitary event of import- 
 ance in the later history of tlie city. 
 
 The Cathedral is of com-se the iirst 
 point of interest. " A very interest- 
 ing pile on many accounts," says 
 Southey, " and much finer than books 
 or common report had led me to ex- 
 pect." At the time of the removal 
 of the see from Selsey, a monastery, 
 dedicated to St. Peter, existed partly 
 on the site of the present cathedral. 
 The church of this monastery seems 
 to have served for some time as that 
 of the bishopric. A cathedral, how- 
 ever, was built by lialph, the 3rd 
 
 bishop. This was completed in 1108, 
 and destroyed by fire in 1114. A 
 second building was commenced, also 
 by Bj). Piali^h, and nearly finished 
 at.' his death in 1123. Much of this 
 church still remains. The additions 
 will be best pointed out in au archai- 
 ological survey. 
 
 The cathedral shoidd be entered 
 through the W. Porch, very beautiful 
 E. E., and like the S. Porch, which 
 opens into the cloisters, and is of the 
 same date, no doubt the work of 
 Bp. Seftrid II. (1180 — 1204), by 
 whom Ralph's cathedral was greatly 
 enlarged and altered, and who, says 
 Fuller, " bestowed the cloth and mak- 
 ing on the church, whilst Bp. Sher- 
 borne gave the trimming and best 
 lace thereto, in the reign of Henry 
 VII." In an elongated quatrefoil 
 over the portal was the figm-e adopted 
 as the arms of the see, commonly 
 called a " Prester John seiant," but 
 in reality the Salvator Mundi. This 
 no longer exists. 
 
 On entering tlie Nave, the eye is 
 at once caught by the five aisles, a 
 peculiarity shared by no other Eng- 
 glish cathedral, although some parish 
 chiu-ches have it on a smaller scale, as 
 Manchester, Taunton, and Coventry. 
 On the continent the increased num- 
 ber of aisles is common : witness 
 Beauvais, Cologne, Milan, Seville, 
 and 7-aisled Antwerj^. Grand eifects 
 of light and shade are produced by 
 these 5 aisles ; remark especially the 
 view from the extreme N. E. corner 
 of the N. aisle, looking across the 
 cathedral. Tlie great depth of the 
 triforium shadows are owing to the 
 unusual width of this wall passage. 
 The cathedral is the broadest in 
 England except York. 
 
 The nave itself, and the 2 aisles 
 immediately adjoining, are the work 
 of Bp. Ralph, to the top of the tri- 
 forium. The clerestory above, and 
 the shafts of I'urbeck marble which 
 lighten the jiiers, are Seffrid's addi- 
 tions. The roof is perhaps somewhat 
 later. The 2 exterior aisles, N. and
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 16. — Chichester — the Cathedral 
 
 307 
 
 S., were perhaps added under Bp. 
 do la AVych (1245-1253). It became 
 necessary to pro\ide additional room 
 for chantries and relic-shrines ; and 
 the positions of the various altars 
 are marked by the piscinas and aum- 
 bries in the walls. The two, how- 
 ever, only occur together in the S. 
 aisle. In the N. are aiunbries only 
 — an arrangement lu'obably due to 
 the ancient feeling with Avhich that 
 quarter was always regarded. The 
 tirst 2 stories of the S.W. tower at 
 the end of the nave deserve examina- 
 tion. The rude, long capitals and 
 l^laiu circular arches possibly indicate 
 a date earlier than Bp. Kali)h. A 
 certam triplicity pervades all this 
 part of the catliedral, which was de- 
 dicated by Setfrid to the Holy Tri- 
 nity. " The side shafts are triple 
 throughout. The bearing-shafts of 
 the vaidting are clustered in threes, 
 and branch out with 3 triple vault- 
 ing-ribs above." (Bev. P. Freeman.) 
 
 The stained windows of the nave 
 are all modern, and are perhaps 
 more satisfactory than usual, in spite 
 of the e\ident want of some uniform 
 design. The 2 W. windows are by 
 Wailes, — the larger one a memorial 
 to Dean Chandler, from the parish- 
 ioners of All Souls, St. JIarylebone, 
 London, of winch parish he was for 
 many years rector. In the N. aisle 
 tlie memorial whidow of Sir Thomas 
 lleynell is by O'Connor. 
 
 In the Arundel Chantry (N. aisle) 
 is the altar-tomb of Bkharcl Fitz- 
 alan, 14th Earl of Armidel (beheaded 
 1397), and Ins countess. Tliis tomb 
 was restored in 1843 by Eichardson, 
 the " repairer " of the efdgies in the 
 Temple Clmrch. The Arundel 
 iigures had been sadly mutilated, 
 and were lying in different parts of 
 the aisle. The tomb does not seem 
 to have been originally placed m the 
 catliedral ; and it has been suo-trested 
 
 ' CO 
 
 tlsat the effigies were removed from 
 the Church of the Grey Friars, now 
 the Guildhall (see 2^''^0' ^ which 
 the earls of Arandel were great bene- 
 
 factors. It was the tomb of this earl 
 that Iiichard II. caused to be opened 
 after his interment, it being " bruited 
 abroad for a miracle that his head 
 shoTild be growne to his body again " 
 ( Holinsh ed). At the end of this aisle, 
 in the Chapel of the Baptist, is the 
 tomb of an miknown lady, happily 
 unrestored, and of extreme beauty. 
 It is of the best Dec. period. A 
 plaster " restoration " may be seen 
 at the Sydenham Palace. Tlie statue 
 of Huskisson in the end of this aisle 
 is by Carew. A memorial wmdow 
 has lately been added above it. 
 
 The nave is rich in Flaxman monu- 
 ments, none of which are obtrusive, 
 and one or two of much beauty. 
 The best are in the N. aisle. Kemark 
 especially that of William Collins, 
 the poet, who was born in Chichester 
 on Christmas - day, 1719, and who 
 died in a house adjoinhig the clois- 
 ters, 1759. He was biuied in St. An- 
 drew's Chm-ch, and the 2:)resent monu- 
 ment was placed here by subscrip- 
 tion. The poet is bending over the 
 New Testament. " I have but one 
 book," he said to Dr. Johnson when 
 he visited Collins at Islington in the 
 last year of his life, at which time 
 the attacks of frenzy had ail-but de- 
 stroyed him, " but that is the best." 
 ' The Passions " lie at his feet. The 
 inscription — 
 
 " where Collins, hapless name. 
 Solicits kindness with a double claim " 
 
 — is the joint production of Hayley 
 and Sargent. In the S. aisle remark 
 tlie monument oi A(jnes Cronucell, a 
 graceful tignre borne upwards by 
 floating angels ; and that of Jane 
 Smith. Better perhaps than any of 
 tliese is the small bas-relief at 
 Eartham (see post). Mr. Euskin's 
 judgment on the artist need not, per- 
 haps, be considered as final. " There 
 was Flaxman, another natiu-ally great 
 man, with as true an eye for nature 
 as Eaphael, — he stumbles over the 
 blocks of the antique statues, — 
 wanders in the dark valley of their
 
 308 
 
 Route IG. — Chichester — the Cathednd. 
 
 Sect. II 
 
 iiiius to the eud of his days. He 
 lias left you a few oiitliues of mus- 
 cular men straddling and i'rowning 
 behind roiuid shields. Much good 
 may they do you ! Another lost 
 mind." — Led. on Areli. and rainting. 
 
 The window over the doorway 
 into the cloisters, representing the 
 jMartyrdom of S. Stephen, is by 
 Wailes, and very good. 
 
 The screen which divides the nave 
 from tlie choir is the work of Bp. 
 Arundel (1458-1478), and is called 
 his " Oratory. " It is a good specimen 
 of Perp. The choir-stalls and the 
 altar -screen are part of Fuller's 
 " lace and trimmings " given by Bp. 
 Sherborne (1507-153G). The bishop s 
 throne was erected in 1830. The 
 defect of the clioir is its extreme 
 narrowness, owing to which the 
 chanted services become far moi'c 
 striking wheu listened to iu tlie 
 nave or transepts. The massive 
 Norm, arches (Bp. Ralph's) which 
 support the spire shoiild here lie 
 noticed. 
 
 The window of the S. transept 
 is due to Bp. Langton (1305- 
 1338), and is of great beauty. Tlie 
 stained glass was destroyed by AVal- 
 ler's pikemen. Beneath it is the 
 bishop's toml), much nmtilated, Init 
 still showing traces of colour. The 
 modern tomb beside it — that of John 
 Smith, Esq., of Dale Park — is at 
 least an attempt in a good direction. 
 On the N. side, adjoining the clioir, 
 is a very important tomb, whicli is 
 ill all prol>abilitv tliat of St. Richard 
 de laWych(bp. 1245-1253) : (see the 
 Life of St. Richard of Chichester, by 
 Ralph Bockhig — like himself, a Do- 
 minican, and the bishop's constant 
 attendant ; Acta Sand., April iii. 
 The miracles recorded are of the 
 usual character, but enough remains 
 to prove the great excellence of the 
 bishop's career). 
 
 The translation of St. Richard's 
 relics took place in 127(j, in the pre- 
 sence of Edward I., his queen, and 
 court. From this time his shrine 
 
 became one of the most honoured in 
 southern England, and numerous 
 offerings are recorded. The tomb is 
 one of Richardson's restorations ; the 
 small tigures hi the niches being en- 
 tirely new. It seems later than the 
 dateof the bishop's translation ; and 
 Professor Willis has questioned its 
 right to figure as the shrine of St. 
 Richard, although it is difficult to 
 appropriate the tomb more satisfac- 
 torily. When the tomb was opened 
 for the recent repairs, fragments 
 of hazel wands and branches were 
 foimil lying on the surface, such as 
 pilgrims, having cut by the way, 
 used to suspend round the shrine. 
 These, together with pieces of glass 
 and other vessels, were probably 
 thrown back in disorder either after 
 the destruction of the shrine by 
 Heiu-y VIII. 's commissioners, or 
 after the bishop's tomb had been 
 violated by Waller's troops. 
 
 The remarkable decorations of this 
 transept are part of Bp. Sherborne's 
 lace-wt)rk, and exhibit on the E. wall 
 portraits of the Bps. of Selsey and 
 Chichester from the commencement. 
 A singular family -likeness runs 
 through the series, which is quite as 
 edifying and aiithentic as that of the 
 kings of Scotland in the Holyrood 
 Gallery, on the uniform shape of 
 whose noses Mr. Crystal Croftangry 
 was wont to speculate. On the 
 opposite wall are the monarchs of 
 England from the Conqueror, and 
 above them a picture, in 2 compart- 
 ments, representing Ceadwalla be- 
 stowing the monastery of Selsey on 
 St. Wilfred, and the confirmation of 
 tJiis grant to the cathedral, made by 
 Henry VIII. to Bp. Sherborne. In 
 this the costume and accompaniments 
 are all of the beginning of the 16th 
 cent. ; and Ceadwalla is represented 
 by the figure of Henry VII., who, 
 like his son and successor, was 
 Bp. Sherborne's pairon. The artist 
 was Theodore Bernardi, a member of 
 an Italian family long resident iii 
 the Low Countries, and which at tliis
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 16. — Chichester — the Cathedral. 
 
 309 
 
 time was settled in Chichester under 
 the bishop's patronage. 
 
 Tlie railed portion of the transept 
 is used as an ecclesiastical coiut. 
 Tlie ancient Consistory Court, over 
 the S. jJorch, is entered by a spiral 
 staircase in the nave, close witliout 
 the transept. It is late Perp., and 
 contains the original president's 
 chair, which deserves attention. A 
 slidhig panel opens from this room 
 into another called the " I^ollard's 
 prison," perhaps a chamber of 
 archives. The Sacrist ij, of E. E. 
 date, is entered from the transe^jt. 
 In it is a very ancient oak-chest, S 
 ft. long. There is nothing about it 
 to contradict the tradition that it is 
 of Saxon workmanship ; and we may 
 believe that it was broxight from 
 Selsey at the removal of tlieliishopric. 
 
 In the wall of the 8. aisle, E. of 
 the transept, are fixed 2 sculptured 
 slabs of very unusual character, wliich 
 are also said to have been removed 
 from Selsey. Casts from them are 
 at Sydenham. The subjects are tlie 
 Raising of Lazarus, and the ^Meeting 
 of the Saviour with Martha and 
 Mary. These slabs were discovered 
 in 1829 behind tlie stalls of the choir, 
 where they had been long concealed. 
 They are probably of early Norm. 
 date, though the costume and ar- 
 rangement seem to indicate a foreign 
 artist. The hollows in the ej'es were 
 perhaps filled wth crystals. fComp. 
 the sculptm-es in Sompting Church, 
 ante, which, although later, have a 
 similar character.) 
 
 Between these slabs is the tomb 
 of jBjj. Sherborne {1507-M), lately re- 
 stored by the society of New College, 
 Oxford, in whose charge it was left. 
 
 Bp. Seftrid's restoration of Ralph's 
 Norm, church terminates in tlie choir. 
 The Eastern Aisles, behind the choir, 
 are Trans., and probablv a later work 
 of the same Bp. Selfrid II. (1180- 
 1204). Tlie central columns with de- 
 taclu^d shafts are of extreme beauty, 
 and perhaps uni((ue. The mixture of 
 the Circular and Pointed stvles is 
 
 best seen m the triforium. The 
 bosses of the vaulting-ribs should be 
 noticed, especially an extraordinary 
 composition of 6 human faces near 
 the S. aisle. The monuments at the 
 liaek of the altar-screen are tliose of 
 Bp. Henrij King, tlie poet (Itj41-G9), 
 whoso fatlier, John King, Bp. of 
 London, was James I.'s " king of 
 preachers." (It was dimng this 
 bishoji's lifetime that the cathedral 
 was " set to rights " by the Puri- 
 tans) ; Bj). Grove (1G96) ; and Bj). 
 Carlton (1705). The plaui tomb on 
 the N. side is that of Bp. Story 
 (1478-1503), the builder of the 
 Rlarket Cross. The trefoil on the 
 pavement adjoining, within which 2 
 liands support a heart, is inscribed, 
 " Ici gist le cojur Maud de . . . . " — 
 the lady's surname being imde- 
 ciijherable. On the S. side is the 
 tomb of Bp. Day (d. 1556). 
 
 In tlie chapel (E. E.) at the end 
 of the N. aisle is a bust of Bp. Otter 
 by Towne. The E. window of this 
 chapel claims to have been the first 
 modern memorial window erected in 
 England. It was placed here in 
 1842 liy Dean Chandler; but a 
 second window has since been sub- 
 stituted by Wailes for the first, with 
 the design of which lie liecame dis- 
 satisfied. To the example thus set 
 Tiy the dean the cathedral is indebted 
 for the riches of its stained glass, 
 now of unusual quantity. In the S. 
 aisle is a memorial window for Bp. 
 Shutlkworth (d. 1842). 
 
 From the E. aisles the Lady 
 Chapel is entered — the work of Bp. 
 Gilbert de St. Leofard (1288-1305). 
 In entering, remark rt. a coped tomb, 
 with the words " Radnlphus Ejiisco- 
 pus " at its W. end. Tliis has been 
 tliought, and perhaps rightly, to 
 belong to Bp. Ralph, the foimder of 
 the original Norm. Church. Ojipo- 
 site are 2 similar tombs, called those 
 of Bps. SettVid and Hilary. Both 
 are uncertain. 
 
 The beautifid Lady Chapel has 
 been .spoilt as far as possible. The
 
 310 
 
 Route IG. — Chichester — the Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 tlooring has been raised iu order to 
 provide room for the Duke of Itich- 
 luoiid's vault, -wliich ranges beneath 
 it. The E. window lias been chjsed 
 up, and tlie others partly liidden. 
 
 Here is arranged the Chapter Li- 
 brary — a good collection; among the 
 treasures of which are Cranmer's 
 copy of the Service-book of Her- 
 mann, Arbp. of Cologne, with his 
 autograph and numerous MS. notes ; 
 and Eustathius on Homer, with 
 the MS. notes of Salmasius. There 
 are no early MSS. of importance. 
 In a case against the wall are 
 preserved some interesting relics, 
 discovered in 1829 in the stone 
 coffins of 2 early bishops, which then 
 stood under the choir arches. The 
 most remarkable are a silver chalice 
 and paten, with gold knobs and or- 
 naments, of the 12th cent., and per- 
 haps marking the tomb of Setfrid II. 
 (d. 1205). in the coffin was found 
 a talismanic thumb-ring — an agate 
 set in gold and engraved with 
 Gnostic devices. Similar talismans 
 have been fomid in the tombs of 
 early crusaders both here and on the 
 continent. This ring, and 2 others 
 of great beauty, set with rubies and 
 sapjihires, and found at the same 
 time, are preserved at the deanery. 
 The other coffin was that of God- 
 frey (1087-1091), second bp. of Chi- 
 chester. It contained the leaden 
 cross exhibited in the library. This 
 is inscrilnd with a papal absolution, 
 from which it appears that some com- 
 plaint against the bishop had been 
 carried to the court of Eonie. Of 
 this, however, nothing is known. 
 Godfrey was consecrated by Ahyt. 
 Lanfranc. 
 
 The vaulting of the ante-room 
 exhibits another fragment of Bp. 
 Sherborne's " lace- work." The whole 
 of the cathedral vaultings were 
 painted in a similar manner, Init 
 all the rest of the decoration has 
 been scraped off. Like the tran- 
 sept pictures, it is Bernardi's work 
 (corap. the roof paintings in the 
 
 church of St. Jacques at Liege, 
 which are of a similar character). 
 There are others, also by Bernardi, 
 at Boxgrove (see 'post). 
 
 In the N. a/'slc, down which we 
 now i^ass, are three memorial win- 
 dows, the best being WiUemeiit's, for 
 P. E. Freeland, Esq. The large 
 tomb under its canopy is said to be 
 that of Bp. Moleynes (1415-49), 
 counsellor of Henry VI., "faithful 
 found among the faithless," and after- 
 wartls murdered at Portsmouth. 
 
 The N. transept was long used as 
 the parish Church of St. Peter, and 
 deserves careful attention. Although 
 much worked upon by Bps. Ealph 
 and Setfrid, there are some indica- 
 tions — such especially as the plain 
 \V. arch^ — which suggest that it may 
 have fornred part of the original 
 monastic Clmrch of St. Peter, known 
 to have existed on this site before 
 the foundation of the Cathedral. 
 The central pillar in the Norm. E. 
 end has been thought to point this 
 out as the Chapterhouse of Bp. 
 llalph's church. 
 
 The Cloisters, entered from the S. 
 aisle of the nave, are Perp. and their 
 wooden roof deserves notice. They 
 should be walked round for the sake 
 of the exterior views of the Cathe- 
 dral to be obtained from them. 
 The S. transept window is best seen 
 here. The ckcular window above it 
 has disappeared from within, owing 
 to the depression of the roof. The 
 Norm, windows of the aisles, now 
 closed, may also be traced here ; the 
 walls themselves, according to Willis, 
 afford evidence that the E. end of the 
 chancel was originally circidar, the 
 ordinary Norm. U-pe. 
 
 Over a doorway iu the ^S". cloister 
 is a shield with tjie arms of Henry 
 VII., together with two robed figures 
 kneeling before the Vii'gin, who is 
 supported by an angel, lioldhig a rose. 
 This marks the house of " the King's 
 Chaplains, who served a chantry 
 founded by Henry V. for his own 
 soul, those of his father and mother,
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 16. — Chichester — the Cathedral. 
 
 aud of Nicholas Mortimer." It is 
 now a private re'sidcnce. 
 
 Beyoud, but still in tlie S. wall, is 
 a tiiblet to the memory of Wm. Chil- 
 lingicorth, tlie champion of Protes- 
 tantism, wlio died here (1643) after 
 the capture of Arundel Castle, where 
 he had suffered much during the 
 siege. He was hurled in this cloister, 
 and Cheynell, a Puritan Grand Inqui- 
 sitor, appeared at the grave with 
 Chilling-worth's ' Pieligion of Protes- 
 tants,' which he Umig into it, " to rot 
 with its author and see corruption ;" 
 accompanying his proceeding Avith a 
 speech that Torquemada miglit have 
 envied. Like most impartial writers, 
 Chillingworth shared the fate of the 
 bat in the fable, and was cordially 
 recognised by neither party. The 
 last lines of the inscription on his 
 monument, 
 
 " Sub hoc marmore conditur 
 Nee seutit damna sepulohri," 
 
 are said to be a later addition. The 
 original inscri])tion, written by a 
 friend of Chillingv.orth's soon after 
 the restoration, contained a special 
 allusion to ChejTiell, in which he was 
 .styled " Theologaster." His son got 
 into the cloister at night, and defaced 
 it with a pickaxe. 
 
 The Episcopal Palace opens from 
 the W. end of tlie cloisters. The 
 L'hapel is late E. E. with some addi- 
 tions. The dining-room ceiling is 
 painted with coats of arms and ini- 
 tials, attributed to Bernardi, the 
 )nanufacturer of Bp. Sherborne's 
 " lace " in tlie Cathedral. 
 
 At tlie S.E. angle of the Cloisters 
 is the Chapel of St. Faitli, foimded 
 early in the 14th century. It is 
 now a dwelling-house, distinguished 
 only by two heavy buttresses. Within, 
 one or two deeply-splayud E. E. win- 
 dows are traceable. 
 
 The liest exterior views of the 
 Cathedral will be gained from "West 
 Street. The spire dates from the 
 end of the IStli century, but it is 
 uncertain under what bishop it was 
 
 erected. It is 270 ft. from the 
 ground, and strikingly resembles its 
 much loftier Inother of Salisbury. 
 " In Salisbury and Chichester alone 
 is there a visible centre and axis to 
 the whole Cathedral, viz., the summit 
 of the sjiire, and a line let fall from 
 it to the gromid. Salisbury was so 
 constructed at first. Chichester spire 
 was made exactly central, to an inch, 
 by the additions of the I-ady Chapel 
 and the W. porch. Michael Angvlo's 
 " most perfect " outline — the pyra- 
 midal —is thus gained. The eye is 
 carried upward to the spu-e-point 
 from the chapels clustering at the 
 base, along the roof and phmacles. 
 Contributing to this is a certain 
 squareness of detail in the abaci of 
 the capitals of the nookshafts which 
 adorn the oiienings. The retention 
 of this Norm, feature at an advanced 
 period of the E. E. style, is remark- 
 able. Witliii 1, square and circular abaci 
 are placed in juxtaposition. (Comp. 
 Boxg)-ove.) {liev. P. Freeman, Suss. 
 Arch, i.) 
 
 The Campanile on the N. side of 
 the cathedral is Perp., of the 15th 
 cent. It is the only English example 
 of a detached bell-tower adjoining a 
 cathedral, though tliere are many in- 
 stances of it in parish churches. The 
 stone of which it is built is from the 
 Isle of Wight quarries near Ventnor. 
 The summit commands a good view 
 of the to-wn aud cathedral. 
 
 The Marlitit-Cross, at the meeting 
 of the four streets, was completeti 
 about 1500, and is the work of Bj?. 
 Storey. The ground has been much 
 raised about it ; and the figures which 
 originally filled the niches above 
 each arcli were removed by Waller's 
 iconoclasts. Tlie clock was the gift 
 of Dame Elizalietli Farringdou 
 (1724), "An hom-ly memento of her 
 goodwill to the city." 
 
 After the cathedral, the most in- 
 teresting building in Chichester is 
 St. Marys Hospital, lying a short 
 distance E. of North Street. Little is 
 known of its history. It is said to
 
 312 
 
 Route 10. — Chichester. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 have been founded as a house of fe- 
 male religious, by a Dean of Chiehcs- 
 ter about the middle of the 12th 
 cent. For some unknown reason it 
 was suppressed as a convent alxnit 
 1229 ; and its revenues, Avith the sanc- 
 tion of Henry III., were appropriated 
 to the maintenance of lo decayed 
 persons and a warden. In 1562 fresh 
 arrangements were made, under which 
 the warden and only 5 poor were 
 maintained ; it now supports 8. 
 
 An arched door and passage lead 
 into the hospital from the street. A 
 long hall or refectory is then entered, 
 in the side walls of which small dwel- 
 lings, of two rooms each, are con- 
 structed for the hnnates. These are 
 only accessible from the central aisle. 
 At the E. end, separated by an open 
 screen of oak, is the chapel, with its 
 ancient stall-work. The arrange- 
 ments of the whole building are so 
 unusual as to deserve very careful 
 attention. The arclutectiire througli- 
 out is late E. E. or very early Dec. 
 The hall-roof is made to span across 
 the building in arches formed by 
 massive timbers, continued downwai'd 
 on either side to within 6 ft. of the 
 ground, and resting on low stone 
 side-walls, which are pierced for win- 
 dows. The oaken screen of the 
 chapel is of later date, but still ap- 
 parently Dec. 
 
 On the E. side of North Street 
 is the restored Church of St. Oluve, 
 remarkable as containing some traces 
 of very early work. Note especially 
 the small door on the S. side, whicli 
 may be even Koman. Eoman urns 
 and bricks were foimd in the E. wall 
 during tlie restoration ; and as the 
 church clearly occupies the site of 
 a Roman building, it may perhaps 
 claim to be the first Christian church 
 of Cliichester. 
 
 The Guildliall, situated in the 
 Priory Park, near the end of North 
 Street, was the chapel of the Grey 
 Friars. It is late E. E., and well de- 
 serves a visit, notwithstanding the 
 desecration and destruction to wiiich 
 
 it has been exposed. Very beautiful 
 sedilia will be found behind the 
 magisterial Ijenches. In the garden, 
 formerly the grounds of the Friary, 
 but now used liy the Cricket Club, is a 
 circular moimd, wliich may either 
 have supported a Calvary(like that at 
 Lewes), or have been connected with 
 the early defences of the city-walls 
 which adjoin it. Similar mounds exist 
 at Canterbury, Oxford, and elsewhere. 
 
 Under St. Aiidreiv's Church and 
 churchyard (East Street) a Roman 
 tessellated pavement extends, at a 
 depth of 4 or 5 ft. In this church the 
 poet Collins was bmled, as an inscrip- 
 tion against the S. wall records. 
 Notice also the monument of John 
 Cawley (d. 1621), father of Cawley 
 the regicide, who died at Bniges. 
 In the exterior wall of this ch. is a 
 mural slab wliich hitherto has j^roved 
 undecipherable. 
 
 In the house of Mr. Mason, adjom- 
 ing St. Andrew's Church, are some 
 interesting relics of Hayley, including 
 a very tine portrait of the poet by 
 Ttomiieij. Here are also some land- 
 scapes by the Smiths, of Chichester ; 
 artists whose local reputation was 
 considerable. 
 
 The Canon Gate, opening from the 
 close hito South Street, has on it the 
 arms of Bp. Sherborne, and was no 
 doubt erected by hun. 
 
 The Museum of the Philosophical 
 Society in South Street, contains a 
 very tolerable collection of local na- 
 tural liistoiy, and some antiquities 
 found in the neighbourhood ; the 
 most important being a quantity of 
 jjottery discovered in 1817 in aBrito- 
 Poman tomb at Avisford, in the 
 ]iarish of Wallierton near Arundel. 
 There are 28 pieces of various forms, 
 together with some large vessels of a 
 pale sea-green glass ; the principal 
 of which, with a reeded handle, con- 
 tained tlie calcined bones of tlie 
 deceased. A very similar deposit 
 was foiind in the Bartlow graves in 
 Essex. {Arclneol. vol. xxv.) 
 
 Some liouses in the nj^per part of
 
 SUSSKX. 
 
 Itouta IG, — Bosham. 
 
 313 
 
 this street, marlved by ovcrliaiigiiig 
 cornices, are attriljiitcd to Wren, as is 
 a brick lionsc in West Street, with 
 the date 1696 in the pediment. Tlie 
 Pallunt, a district oi^ening from West 
 Street, forming a miniature Chiches- 
 ter -with its own four streets, is the 
 pulatinaie. or Ai'chbishop's peculiar. 
 
 Adjoining South Street is the hall 
 of the Vkars' Cullege, now used as a 
 school-room. It still contains the 
 ancient lavatory and reader's pulpit. 
 The Vicars Choral Avere placed here 
 as a collegiate body toward the end 
 of the 14th cent. 
 
 Of the ancient Citij Walls there 
 are considerable remains ; and verj' 
 pleasant public walks have been 
 formed within them on the N. side, 
 overlooking the coimtry toward 
 Goodwood. Semicircular towers still 
 remain at intervals. Of other parts 
 of the walls good news are to be had 
 from the E. side of South Street be- 
 j'ond the Theatre, and from the fields 
 beyond West Street. 
 
 Beyond the city walls, N., is the 
 so-called Otter Memorial — a training 
 college for schoolmasters founded by 
 Bp. Otter, and erected in 184t)-5d. 
 It is a goi'd collegiate building, from 
 the designs of Mr. J. Butler. 
 
 Not quite 1 m. N. of the walls, on 
 the Goodwood road, are some re- 
 markable lines of embankment, now 
 called the Broyle, probably from the 
 ancient character of the district, once 
 covered with coppice, hruillum. Tlie 
 lines extend fn- a considerable dis- 
 tance, N. and W., but have never 
 been thoroughly examined. A some- 
 what similar work, called " Redvin's 
 Cop " runs E. of Cloodwood. It has 
 been suggested that the "Broyle' 
 marks the military station of Eoman 
 liegnum without the walls. 
 
 Bosham will be one of the first 
 places visited by the archreologist 
 from Chichester. The church is dis- 
 tantabout J m. fromthe station, which 
 is the liist between Chichester and 
 I'ortsmouth. Bv the road, the dis- 
 
 tance from Chichester is about 4 m., 
 but the walk cannot be recommended 
 on the score of beauty or interest. 
 All this is forgotten, however, when 
 the venerable tower is at last seen 
 presiding over the quaint fishing 
 village, at the head of its historical 
 creek. The clmrch, dedicated to the 
 Holy Trinity, stands on a green ris- 
 uig ground, extending to the water, 
 and consists of chancel, nave, with 
 N. and S. aisles, and W. tower. The 
 portions called Saxon should be first 
 noticed. These are the Chancel Arch 
 and the Toirer. The first is circular 
 and unusually lofty, the pier shafts 
 veiy high, with moulded capitals. If 
 it he not late Norm, it is Saxon ; 
 the matter is "adhuc sub judice," 
 and the visitor may make his own 
 discoveries. The so-called Saxon 
 relics throughout the country have 
 frequently a strong resemblance t(j 
 late Norm, or nide E. E. The Toicer 
 seems to have more positive claims. 
 There is no external door. Above 
 the circular arch, opening to the 
 nave, is a triangular-headed window, 
 with long and short work (such an 
 arch occurs at Janow, and in other 
 Anglo-Saxon Imildings), and a small 
 square slit beside it. In the massive 
 walls are several roxuid-headed win- 
 dows deeply splayed. 2 stages arc 
 marked without by square - edged 
 stringcom-scs, and imder the spire is 
 a. Norm. ( ? ) corbel-tal )le. The parish 
 l)ooks record that the steeple was 
 set on fire liy lightning hi 1638, but 
 no great harm was done. This por- 
 tion of the buikUng has at least the 
 best claim of hanng witnessed Ha- 
 rold's appearance with liawk on 
 wrist, as he is represented in the 
 Bayeux tapestry, when he entered 
 the church of Bosham to perform 
 his devotions, before sailing from the 
 harbour on his fatal visit to Duke 
 William. 
 
 The present Chancel is E. E., vnth 
 an E. window of 5 lights. A college 
 f(n' a dean and 5 secular preliendarics 
 was founded at Bosham by William
 
 314 
 
 Route 10. — Bosh 
 
 am. 
 
 Sect. 11. 
 
 Warlewast, Bp. of Exeter, aljout 1120. 
 This bishop had dissolved his college 
 at Plymp ton ill Devonsliire.on account 
 of tlie irreguhir lives of the inmates, 
 and he settled the same number oli 
 Iiis manor here. The chancel was 
 appropriated to this college, but is 
 of considerably later date than its 
 foundation. The shafts of tlie ori- 
 ginal E. E. windows are of Petworth 
 marble. In tlie N. wall, imder an 
 arched recess, is a figure, tradition- 
 ally said to be that of a daughter of 
 Canute, who visited Earl Godwin at 
 his castle here, and died. It is sliort, 
 and apparently temp. Edw. I. The 
 remaining stall work is Perp. The 
 nave is E. E., with circular piers and 
 broad bases. Tlie windows are of 
 all dates, only one being the original 
 E. E. At the E. end of the S. aisle is 
 a groined E. E. crypt. In the wall 
 adjoining is an arched tomb of some 
 peculiarity. The font is E. E. The 
 earliest exterior buttresses seem to 
 be E. E. 
 
 Bosham Church is twice mentioned 
 in the Doomsday Survey, and is re- 
 presented, but only under a general 
 form, and not as a portrait, in the 
 famous Bayeux tapestry, where Ha- 
 rold enters it before sailing. The 
 very first picture in tlie tapestry ex- 
 Mbits " Harold and his kniglits rid- 
 ing towards Bosham ;" one of his 
 principal manors on the S. coast. 
 The well-known story, in which his 
 father. Earl Godwin, is made to ask 
 " Da milii hasium" in taking leave 
 of Arpb. CEgilnoth, and tlien to in- 
 sist that the archliishop had given 
 him Bosham., is first told by Walter 
 de Mapes, and is of about equal 
 authenticity with that recording the 
 union of Bath and Wells. Tlie lands 
 of Harold extended from Chichester 
 to Havant. The site of his residence 
 at Bosham was probably that of the 
 present manor-house, not far from 
 the church, where an ancient moat en- 
 closes a considerable piece of ground. 
 The barn in front is erected on re- 
 mams of stone walls of great anti- 
 
 quity. The importance of Bosham 
 no doubt arose from its being a 
 safe landing-place at the head of 
 the creek. Its name (Bosanhamm, 
 Boso"s meadow), is at least as old as 
 Bede's time, who tells us, that wlien 
 Bp. Wilfred of York visited Sussex in 
 G81, he foimd here at Bosham, en- 
 circled by woods, and by the sea, 
 (sylvis et mari circumdatum), a small 
 religious house of 5 or 6 brethren, 
 ruled by a Scot named Dicul, — a 
 little Christian fortress in the midst 
 of the heathen Saxons, on whom, how- 
 ever, Dicul and his monks had made 
 no impression whatever. How far Bp. 
 Warlewast's foundation was on the 
 same site as Dicul 's (which was con- 
 firmed by Wilfred) is of course un- 
 certain. Of the later college some 
 portions remain close to the ch. An 
 arched doorway here may perhaps 
 be of the same date as the chancel ; 
 the rest seems later. Herbert de 
 Bosham, Becket's secretary, but not, 
 as is generally asserted, one of those 
 present at his death, was either a 
 native of the village or a canon of 
 this college. His ' Book of Beckefs 
 Martyrdom ' was to be found in almost 
 every religious house. 
 
 The bells of Bosham are said to 
 have been carried o& by the Danes. 
 In punishment of their sacrilege, 
 however, a great storm arose before 
 they were half way do\vn the creek, 
 and the weight of the bells sank 
 their ship. But they stdl remain 
 under the water, and on great festival 
 days their voices may be heard 
 chiming in sympathy with their Pro- 
 testant successors in the tower. How 
 far this is a scandal on the ancient 
 bells, any one may judge who re- 
 marks the strong echo floating back 
 from the West Itchenor woods, 1. of 
 the creek. Similar legends are told 
 of Bottreaux in Cornwall, and of 
 more than one church on the coast of 
 Normandy. A colossal head, foimd 
 in the churchyard here, is now 
 preserved in the palace garden at 
 Chichester. It has been taken for
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 16. — Selsey. 
 
 315 
 
 Woden or Jupiter, but is more pro- 
 bably the fragment of a St. Christo- 
 pher. The prebendal churches at- 
 tached to the college of Bosham 
 seem to have been restored or rebuilt 
 about the same time as the chancel 
 of the parent clmrch. Chidham 
 (1 m. W.) is E. E. of that time, as is 
 Appledram, about h m. otf the road in 
 the way back to CI lich ester. A farm- 
 house at this latter place, near the 
 church, is said to be a portion of a 
 tower built by William Eenan, temp. 
 Edw. II. But a licence to crenel- 
 late could not be obtained from tlie 
 king, and the stone which had been 
 collected for the rest of the castle 
 was bought by Bp. Langton, who 
 used it for the campanile adjoining 
 the cathedral. 
 
 The tourist in search of the pic- 
 turesque must not be sent to Selseij, 
 although it is a corner of much 
 historical interest. The point of 
 Selsey Bill is about 9 m. from Chi- 
 chester, whence it may most easily be 
 visited. The entire hundred of Man- 
 hood, forming the penuisula, the 
 name of which indicates that it was 
 anciently covered with forest (i\Iain- 
 wood), is a dead level, with a rich 
 soil, composed of the "London claj-," 
 and with deep marshes at intervals. 
 The low coast is still encroached on 
 by the sea, which is said to have swept 
 away half the peninsula since the 
 Saxon period. The entire district 
 was granted by Edilwalch, king of 
 the S. Saxons, to Wilfred of York, 
 shipwrecked on this coast about 
 G80-1. Edilwalch and his queen were 
 alreadj^ Christians, but the whole of 
 his people still worshipped Thor and 
 Odiu. They were, howevej-, prepared 
 to receive Christianity, for Wilfred 
 first Ijaptized the chiefs and pruiciiial 
 leaders, and the priests who were 
 with him speedily brought over the 
 rest. No rains, says Bcde, had fallen 
 for 3 years before Wilfred's arrival. 
 A great famine had been the result ; 
 and the S. Saxons, chaining them- 
 
 selves together in companies of 30 or 
 40, souglit an end to their miseries 
 by throwing themselves into the sea. 
 Wilfred taught them to fish, of which 
 before they knew nothing ; and on 
 the first day of baptism the rain fell 
 in plenty, and the earth once more 
 became fruitful. Ui^on Selsey, " the 
 seal's island," he then established a 
 monastery, and collected there such 
 of his followers as, like himself, had 
 been exiled from Northumberland. 
 In this southern house Oswald, the 
 sainted king of Northumbria, was 
 especiallv reverenced. (See Bede, 
 1. iv. c. 14.) 
 
 Wilfred was thus the first bishop 
 of Selsey and of the S. Saxou.s, and 
 the see conthiued here until after 
 the Conquest, when it was removed 
 to Chichester. For this Saxon cathe- 
 dral and monastery of Selsey all 
 search will now be in vain. The 
 village of Selsey, now about i m. 
 from the sea, is traditionally said to 
 have been once in the centre of the 
 peninsula ; at all events, the site of 
 the old cathedral is now covered with 
 water. It is said to have lain about 
 a mile E. of the present church, and 
 so rapidly has the sea encroached, 
 within the last 3 cents., that in Cam- 
 den's time the foundations were un- 
 covered at low water. The line of 
 anchorage along the S. E. coast is 
 still called '• the Park," which was 
 existing and full of deer, temp. Hen. 
 VIII., and for 2)oaching in which 
 Bp. Rede fiercely excommunicated 
 certain imhajJiiy deer-stealers. 
 
 The present Clmrch, about 2 m. N. 
 of the village, is probably the work 
 of the same Bp. Eede (13G9-13S5), 
 with a considerably later roof. It 
 is dedicated to St. Peter, like the 
 ancient catiicdral, and is of some 
 size. The tower was never finished. 
 In the nave are some grave-slabs of 
 Sussex marble, with crosses and other 
 ornaments, said to have been brought 
 from the former church. Against the 
 N. wall of the chancel is a somewhat 
 remarkable monument for John Lews
 
 316 
 
 Route IG. — Pagham. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 unci Agatha Gorges his wife, died 
 1537. Beliiud the recumbent figures 
 are the lady's patron saints, St. 
 George and St. Agatlia. Similar ar- 
 rangements exist at West Wittering 
 and at West Hampnett, and seem to 
 indicate the same designer ; perhaps 
 one of the Bernardi family, settled 
 in Chichester about this time. The 
 font is ancient and should be noticed. 
 In tlie clmrcliyard is an epitaph by 
 Hayley on the tombstone of two 
 j'oung men drowned ofi" the coast. 
 Close adjoining is tlie mound and 
 trench of an ancient fortification. 
 
 The whole of the Selsey iDcninsula, 
 but especially the coasts, and the 
 Pagham Creek, is the resort of in- 
 numerable wild-fowl, many of rare 
 species ; and, in severe winters, flocks 
 of wild swans are always to be heard 
 and seen here. The patches of brush- 
 wood, and rough copses of stunted 
 oak, which dot its line of coast, also 
 " afford temptmg places of rest to 
 our vernal migratory birds on their 
 first arrival from the continent." 
 " Here, in the dead long svunmer 
 days, when not a breatli of air has 
 been stirring, have I frequently re- 
 mained for hours stretched on the 
 liot shingle, and gazed at the osprey 
 as he soared aloft, or watched tlie 
 little islands of mud at the turn of 
 the tide, as each gradually I'ose from 
 the receding waters, and was succes- 
 sively taken i^ossessiou of by iiocks 
 of sandpipers and ring-dotterels, 
 after various circiun volutions on the 
 part of each detachment, now simul- 
 taneously presenting tlieir snowy 
 Ijreasts to the sunshine, now sud- 
 denly turning their dusky backs, so 
 that the dazzled eye lost sight of 
 them from the contrast ; while the 
 prolonged cry of the titterel, and the 
 melancholy note of the peewit from 
 the distant swamp, mingled with tlie 
 scream of tlie tern and the taunting 
 laugh of tlie "gull." {A. E. Knox.) 
 The sands are very firm and dry, 
 and it is possible to drive along them 
 for about 10 miles. Off the coast 
 
 there is an extensive fishery, and a 
 "Selsey cockle" is one of Fuller's 
 " four good things " of Sussex. {See 
 Introdurthm, Sussex.) 
 
 In Pagham harliour, between Pag- 
 ham and Selsey Cliurch, is a place 
 called Ijy the fishermen the Kusliing 
 Well. Over a space of about 130 ft. 
 long by 30 broad, the water is 
 " apparently in a state of ebulli- 
 tion, from the rushing of immense 
 volumes of air to the surface. The 
 noise of tlie bursting bubbles re- 
 sembles the simmering of a huge 
 caldron, and may sometimes be 
 heard at Selsey church, J m. dis- 
 tant." The air rushes through a bed 
 of shingle, left dry at low tide, and 
 the only explanation hitherto offered 
 is, that there is some large cavity 
 beneath, from which the air is ex- 
 pelled as the water rushes in. [The 
 Hushing Well and Selsey Church 
 may be visited from Bognor, taking 
 especial note of the state of the tides.] 
 Pagham harbour itself was formed 
 by an irruption of the sea at the be- 
 ginning of tlie 14tli cent., when 2700 
 acres were desb-oyed. Tlie Church of 
 Pagham is good E. E., and worth 
 notice, although it lias been much 
 injured by "reijairers. ' It is dedi- 
 cated to Thomas h, Becket, and was 
 probabl}- built soon after his cano- 
 nization by an archbishop of Caii- 
 terliuiy, to which see the manor 
 belonged till the Reformation. A 
 slab in the chancel, with Longobardic 
 characters, shoiild be looked foi'. 
 Some indistinct remains of the arcliie- 
 piscopal i:)alace are visible in a field 
 S.E. of the church. 
 
 At Brackhsl/aiii Buy, 3 m. W. of 
 Selsey Bill, masses of clay occur on 
 the sands, containing fossil shells of 
 great rarity. " The part of the bay 
 most interesting to the geologist is 
 that immediately in the neighbour- 
 hood of Bracklesham barn, esiDCcially 
 at about a furlong to the E. of that 
 spot, where there is a small brealc 
 or chine in the low clay clitf. Here 
 there is a stratum of light green
 
 Sussex. Route 10. — West Hampnett. — Boxgrove. 
 
 ;i7 
 
 marly sand, aboxiiiding in Veneri- 
 cardia plaiiicosta and other sliel'.s." 
 — Boioerhanlc. Vertebras and other 
 bones of turtles, serpents, and eroeo- 
 diles, have also been discovered 
 here. At Cakeham, in West Witter- 
 ing, beyond, is a lofty hexagonal 
 tower of brick, with labelled Avin- 
 dows, bnilt by Up. Sherborne of 
 Chichester, in the early i:>art of the 
 16th cent., for the sake of the sea 
 view, which is here very fine and 
 unimpeded. Cakeham Manor was an 
 occasional residence of the Bps. of 
 Chichester, but the tower is now 
 the only relic of their palace here. 
 Here Rich, de la Wych, the sainted 
 bishop, is said to have miraculously 
 fed, during- a great dearth, 3001) per- 
 sons witli beans only sufficient for 
 one-third the number. 
 
 In West Wittering Church is a ca- 
 nopied altar-tomb, with bas-reliefs at 
 the ends, representing the Annuncia- 
 tion and thcEesurrection It is that 
 of William Ernley, died 1545, and 
 resembles the Lews monument at 
 Selsey. 
 
 Kynor, in the parish of Sidlesham, 
 extending W. to tlie sea, is, hi all 
 probability, the " Cymenes-ora," at 
 which Qillla and his three sons, 
 Cijmen, Wlencing, and Cissa, landed 
 in 477, whence they established 
 themselves on the coast, and founded 
 the settlement of the S. Saxons. 
 Sidlesliam Church is mainly E. E. 
 In it is a good " Flanders chest " of 
 Dec. character. The little village, 
 with its large tide-mill, sleeping in 
 the clear summer air at the head of 
 the estuary, looks like some sharply 
 touched landscape by Asselyn or 
 Van Goyen. 
 
 Although the tourist must not be 
 sent S. of Chichester in search of the 
 pictiu-esquc, he may very safely tiu-n 
 northward. As soon as the ground 
 begins to rise toward the chalk 
 range, the views become of great in- 
 terest, fringed from the higher land 
 with a background of sea. A first 
 
 \_Kent & Sussex.'^ 
 
 excursion may be to Goodwood and 
 the race-course al)0ve it ; or a longer 
 round may be made by Boxyrove, 
 visiting the church there, proceetling 
 by Halnaker to Goodwood, thence to 
 St. Eoche's Hill and the race-course, 
 and back to Chichester by the Mid- 
 hurst road. On this route 
 
 West lianipnett, I5 m., has an E.E. 
 chui-ch, with a monument to Richard 
 Sackville and bis wife in the chancel. 
 Between the 2 kneeling figures is a 
 representation of the Holy Trinity, in 
 which the arrangement is that of a 
 Pietk. The dove (as on the tomb of 
 the Black Prince at Canterbury) is 
 wanting. Beneath is the inscription, 
 " Sanctus Spiritus Unus Deus," the 
 
 2 figures al3ove being apparently 
 intended to form part of the sentence. 
 (See Selsey aide.) Beyond the church 
 by the roadside, is West Hampnett 
 Flare, now tlie union poor-house for 
 this and tlie adjohiing parishes. The 
 front is modern ; the rest of the 
 house Elizabethan. The ceiling of 
 the great staircase is painted in the 
 style of Kneller. The house is said 
 to have been built by Ed. Sacknlle, 
 uncle of Thomas, first Lord Buck- 
 hurst. The Church of 
 
 Boxgrove, 2 m., should on no ac- 
 count be left unvisited, since it is one 
 of the most important .specimens of 
 E. E. in the kingdom. Boxgrove 
 Priory was foimded temp. Hen. 1. by 
 Eobert de Haia, who then possessed 
 the lordship. He made it a cell for 
 
 3 monks, attached to the Benedic- 
 thie abbey of Lessay in Normandy 
 (diocese of Coutances). The number 
 was increased to 15 by the St. Johns, 
 heirs of Eobert de Haia ; and when 
 the alien priories were supjjrcsscd, 
 Boxgrove was made " denizen, or in- 
 digena,"' and retained its rich endow- 
 ments. At the dissolution, Thomas 
 West, Lord Delawarr, then loid of 
 Boxgrove and Halnaker, pleaded 
 earnestly for it to Cromwell. " I 
 have made therem a powr chapell 
 to be buried yn;" he writes ; l>ut in 
 spite of this, and although commia- 
 
 Q
 
 518 
 
 Route IG. — Boxgrove. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 sioner Layton found its condition 
 satisfactory — "the prior is a gret 
 liusbonde and kepitli gret hospital- 
 itie ; ejus monachi omncs sunt ejns- 
 dem farinre '"—the Boxgrove Bene- 
 dictines could not be spared. 
 
 The present Church, dedicated to 
 St. Mary and St. Blaize, is tliat of 
 the prioiy ; the ancient nave, which 
 probably served as the original parish 
 chnrcli, is now ruined. The existing 
 portion consists of the chancel, aisles, 
 transepts, and central tower ; of all 
 which, with the exception of the 
 tower, which is Norm., the cliaracter 
 is rich E. E. Tlie composition of the 
 choir or sacrarium is of great beauty. 
 "Itisdividtd into 4 square compart- 
 ments, each having a cross vault with 
 ribs, the diagonal being enriched with 
 the tooth ornament." All this ar- 
 rangement deserves the most care- 
 ful attention. Remark the pillared 
 brackets from which the vaulting 
 shafts spring ; and the graceful man- 
 ner in which they are made to fill 
 the spaces between the circular pier 
 arches. The clerestory above the pier 
 arches is very beautiful — its unequal 
 arches supported by slender columns 
 of Purbeck. The E. window is a large 
 triple lancet, with long filleted shafts 
 of Purbeck marl)lel)etwceu the lights. 
 The vaulting tliroughout is covered 
 with paintings of the same character 
 as those of Bp. Sherborne in Chiches- 
 ter cathedral ; the artist was no doubt 
 the same. A peculiar blue green is 
 used for the foliage and traceries. 
 Under the second bay, on the S. side 
 of tlie chancel, is the tomb of Lord 
 Delawarr, (died 1532); a most striking 
 specimen of Mr. Ruskin's "pestilent 
 Renaissance." The character of the 
 upright ornamented sliafts covered 
 with rude, low reliefs, is very remark- 
 al>le. On one, a lady standing in a 
 wattled enclosure, catches in her 
 apron the figs which a climbing figure 
 in the tree above shakes down to her. 
 Compare the ornaments with the 
 paintings on the chancel roof. In 
 cither case the artist may liave been 
 
 one of the Bernardis. Within the 
 tomb, remark the central pendant 
 boss, and tlie curious miniature vault. 
 Lord Delawarr's " jiowr chapell," 
 supplied with arm chairs, and glazed 
 to keep OTit draughts, more pestilent 
 than the Renaissance, now serves as 
 a " ducal " seat for Goodwood. " Sic 
 vos non vobis." It is much to be 
 wished that the same thoughtful 
 care which has been bestowed here 
 should be extended to the whole ch., 
 which is greatly in need of it. Some 
 of the original iron-work for the 
 chaj^el may Ijc seen, thrown aside at 
 the end of the N. aisle. It bears the 
 " erampet badge" of the Delawarrs. 
 
 The aisles, like the chancel, are 
 E. E. N. of the chancel lies interred 
 rhilippa. Countess of Arundel, after- 
 wards wife of Thomas, Lord Poynings 
 (circ. 1428). In the wall of the N. 
 aisle are 3 arched tombs without 
 inscriptions. 2 daughters of Alice 
 of Louvain, Queen of Henry I., and 
 afterwards wife of William de Albini, 
 Earl of Arundel, were buried here, 
 and these memorials possibly belong 
 to them. In the N. transept is a bud 
 monument for Sir William Morley 
 of Ilalnaker, and opposite one for 
 his heiress, the Countess of Derby, 
 with a bas-relief commemorating her 
 charity. Three other arched tombs 
 are in the S. aisle, where the E. E. 
 windows have been less tampered 
 with. The arches from the transepts 
 uito the aisles, are early Norm. The 
 remains of floor-tiling should be 
 noticed throughout. Theupper stories 
 of the tower are open, as a lantern. 
 Outside the church the wall is visible, 
 across the entrance to the nave, which 
 divided the jjarish church from that 
 of the priory (comp. the aiTangements 
 at Arundel, and at Ch. Ch., Hants). 
 In the centre is a (tabernacle?) niche 
 above the ancient altar-site. The 
 nave beyond is ruined. On the N. 
 side were the cloisters and chapter- 
 house ; the entrance to the last di- 
 lapidated, but still showing some fine 
 Norman arches. Near the W. end of
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Eoute 16. — Goodwood. 
 
 the church is the monastic jiigeon- 
 hoiise, of brick, with hut tresses. 
 Through the farm gatebejoud, N., are 
 the remains of tlie refectory, only 
 lately reduced to their present condi- 
 tion. They are early Dec, the lo\yer 
 story vaulted, with a range of pillars 
 running longitudinally. The corbel 
 heads, from which the vault arches 
 sprang, remain. Above were larger 
 apartments, and a third range in the 
 gable. Many fragments of the priory 
 are traceable in the farm walls and 
 buildings. 
 
 The ruins of Halnal;er, ^ m., need 
 not long delay the tourist. The 
 house was a good specimen of Henry 
 VIII. architecture, with a gateway 
 flanked by small octangular turrets 
 leading into a square court. It is 
 now little more than a mass of ruined 
 walls, with an occasional stone win- 
 dow-frame. The Imilder was Sir 
 Thomas West, Lord Delawarr, whose 
 " powr chapell '" we have already con- 
 templated. Halnakcr is now attached 
 to Goodwood. In the park, well 
 filled with deer, is an avenue of 
 Spanish chesnuts which should not 
 pass unnoticed. 
 
 The park of Goodwood (Duke of 
 Richmond), 1 m., may be visited at 
 all times. The house is oidy shown 
 when the family are absent. Good- 
 wood possibly derives its name 
 from its ancient Saxon possessor 
 Godwinus, who was fortimate enough 
 to retain his lauds at the period of 
 the Conquest. It was purchased 
 from the Compton family bv the first 
 Duke of Eichmond about 1720. The 
 house, of no especial beauty, is built 
 on four sides of a hexagon, with 
 towers at the angles. The original 
 design was by Sir William Chambers. 
 The later additions are Wyatfs. The 
 collection of pictures here is not one 
 of great importance, although of some 
 extent. It is richest in portraits. 
 Notice in the hall those of Charles I. 
 in his robes of state, Henrietta Maria 
 in white satin, and their .5 children, 
 all by Vandyke: a half-length of 
 
 Charles II. ; Sir Peter Lehj: liOuise 
 de Querouaille, Duchess of Ports- 
 moutli, mistress of Charles II. (gene- 
 rally called "Madam Carwell ") ; 
 Kneller : Charles, 1st Duke of Rich- 
 mond (son of Charles IT. and Louise 
 de Querouaille\ and his Duchess, 
 Anne ; both by Kneller : and Sir 
 William Waller, the General of the 
 Parliamentarians who took Arundtl 
 Castle and the city of Chichester : 
 Sir r. Lehj. A pair of curfews, of 
 copper, riveted together, are alst) 
 shown in the hall. In a cabinet in 
 the drawing-room is preserved " a 
 worked shirt of Charles I., and 
 various silver articles used during 
 the infancy of Charles II." {Mason's 
 Goodwood.) Much of the china in 
 this room was i>resented by Louis 
 XV. to the 3rd Duke of Richmond. 
 The diniiKj-room contains busts of 
 the Marquis of Rockingham and Pitt 
 by NoUehens, and of tlie Duke of 
 Wellington by TurnerrUi. In the 
 mnsic-room are portraits of Charles, 
 2nd Duke of Richmond : Duke of 
 Monmouth; Kneller: Killegrew the 
 wit : Carew the poet ; and Montrose, 
 all 3 by Vandtjlce ; and some by 
 Lehj. Of the other pictures the 
 most striking is a lai-ge one by Sal- 
 vator liosa, representing a Seaport 
 with ruins. In the irai ting-room be- 
 yond are the tliird Duchess of Rich- 
 mond, Lady Charles Spencer, and 2 
 portraits of the third Duke of Rich- 
 mond, all by Sir J. Beynolds ; and 
 William Pitt, by Gainshorough. A 
 full-length of the present Duchess of 
 Richmond, in the staircase-hall, was 
 thought by Lawrence "one of the 
 best he had painted." Here are also 
 Charles II., by Lehj; Miss Stewart, 
 " La belle Stewart," afterwards 
 Duchess of Richmond, as Bellona, 
 also by Lehj, and a very fine picture ; 
 (this lady is said to have atfoided tlie 
 tj'pe for the figure of Britannia on the 
 coins of the realm) ; and in the gal- 
 lery above, Nell Gwynme, tlie Duchess 
 of Portsmouth, and Mrs. Middleton, 
 all showing Lely's one-pin-fastened 
 
 Q 2
 
 320 
 
 Route 16. — Goodwood. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 dresses. The finest Vandyke in tlic 
 coUcetion is placed liere — Charles I., 
 Henrietta, and the Princes Charles 
 and James. This picture was in 
 the Orleans Grallery ; and was pur- 
 chased by the 3rd Duke for 1100/. 
 Vandyke painted 3 copies : one in 
 the possession of the Crown ; one be- 
 longing to the Duke of Devonshire ; 
 ami this at Goodwood. In the )<iiu(U 
 library are the third Duke of liich- 
 moud, by Bomney, and the foiu-th 
 Duke (who died in Canada), by 
 Jackson. In the hiUt'ard-room are 
 Romney'g jiortrait of Lord Anson ; 
 and some landscapes by George 
 (d. 1775) and John Smith, his younger 
 brother (d. 1764), natives of Chiches- 
 ter, and once of considerable reputa- 
 tion. Many of their best pictures 
 have been engraved by Woollet. The 
 most remarkable picture here, how- 
 ever, is the so-called " Cenotaph of 
 Lord Darnley ;" brought from the 
 Chateau d'Aubigny, where it was 
 discovered in a dilapidated state. 
 There is a duplicate in the possession 
 of the Earl of Pomfret. In the i-iglit- 
 hand corner is tlie inscription, "Tra- 
 gica et lamentaljilis internecio sere- 
 nissimi Henrici Scotorum Regis." 
 In the centre the figure of Darnley 
 is seen exposed before the altar of 
 a cliaiDel, aud near it are his son, 
 King James ; the Earl and Countess 
 of Lennox, his father and motlier ; 
 and his younger brother ; all kneel- 
 ing. The story of Darnley's murder 
 is told in small compositions arranged 
 in different parts of the pictiu-e. First 
 appears the actual murder, where 2 
 armed figures are drawing the body 
 from the Ijed ; next, the l)ody of Darn- 
 ley is Fho\vn lying under a tree in the 
 orcliard ; and last is the battle array 
 of CarljiTry Hill, where queen Mury 
 parted from Bothwell. Below again 
 is a view of the city of Edinburgh, 
 with Salisbury Crags and Arthur's 
 Seat. From 2 of the inscriptions it 
 appears that this picture was com- 
 menced in October, 15(J7, wlien King 
 James was IG months old, and finished 
 
 in the January following. It was 
 thus begiui within 7 months after tlie 
 min-der. For whom, and Ijy whom, 
 this curious picture was designed, is 
 not known, though it has been as- 
 cribed to Leviniis Venetianus or Vo- 
 rielarius. It has been engraved by 
 Vertue. In the stnne staircase are 
 Hogarth's picture of "The Lady's 
 Ijast Stake," painted for Lord Cliarle- 
 mont ; many landscapes by the 
 Smitlis ; some portraits by Bomney 
 and Hudson; and "Autiochus and 
 Stratonice " by Barry. In the Long 
 HaJl are two curious views of London 
 from the terrace and gardens of 
 Richmond House, by Canalletti. 
 The TaiK'Stry Drawing Boom is hung 
 with fine old gobeluis, the designs 
 from Don Quixote. The chimney- 
 piece is by Bacon. 
 
 Goodwood Park is more attractive 
 than the house. The views from the 
 higher grounds are very grand ; and 
 the trees beat the pictures. Of these 
 the Lebanon cedars are the finest. 
 1000 were planted by the third duke 
 in 1761 ; only 159 now remain, but 
 many are of unusual size. The 
 largest, in a paddock near the dog- 
 kennels, measures 25 ft. in circum- 
 ference. The greater niuuber are 
 scattered in clumps through the i^ark, 
 and on the road to Molecomb, a villa 
 within the domain. Remark also tv.'o 
 very large cork-trees opposite the 
 principal i-ntrance ; an enormous 
 beech opposite the stables ; a spruce 
 fir near the kitchen gardens ; and 
 some deciduous cypresses in the 
 High Wood, where is also a fine 
 chestnut avenue. In the High Wood 
 grounds, not far from the house, is a 
 temple containing the famous " Nej)- 
 tune and Minerva " slal), found at 
 Cliichester in 1731, in digging the 
 foiuidations for the Coimcil Chamber ; 
 when the remains of stone walls 
 were also discovered, no doubt part 
 of the temple to which the inscrip- 
 tion refers. The stone is of grey 
 Purbcck fnot Sussex) marble. The 
 inscription, as restored, with almost
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route IG. — Kwgly Bottom. 
 
 321 
 
 certainty, nms thus : the letters in 
 Italics mark the conjectural restora- 
 tious. 
 
 " j\"eptuni et Jlinerva? templum 
 pro salute Aomu& divinaj 
 tx auctoritate Tib. C'lauJ. 
 Cogidubni r. leg. aug. in Brit. 
 CoZiegiuni i'abror. et qui in eo 
 a sacris sunt d. s. d. lionante aream 
 i'Mdente Pudeutini fil. 
 
 Cogidubiius, to whom, as a reward 
 for his tidelity to the Romans, many 
 cities were given after the successes 
 of Plautius and Scapula, here takes 
 tlie uauie of his patron, tlie Emperor 
 Claudius, according to Koman custom. 
 The " Collegium fahrorum" may have 
 been the company of the carpenters 
 or shipbuilders of the port. Nep- 
 tune and Alinerva were thus their 
 natural patrons, the last as the god- 
 dess of Arts. Comji. Virg. — • 
 
 " Juxtarmontis equum divina Palladis arte." 
 
 The deep interest which belongs to 
 the Pudentums part of the inscription 
 has already been noticed. (Chiches- 
 ter, ante.) 
 
 The Stuhles should be visited by 
 all who are interested in such matters ; 
 they are as complete as possible. 
 The dog Icennels, once of no small 
 celebrity, have been converted into 
 cottages. The i)h(^amntrij formed 
 from an old chalk pit, planted with 
 evergreens, should not be missed. 
 Above it, nearly on the lull top, is 
 Cairney Seat, which has "received its 
 name from that of a faithful old 
 servant of the family." The view 
 from the building here, which is oj^en 
 for the use of the public, extends far 
 along the coasts of Sussex and Hamp- 
 shire, and is very striking. 
 
 The race-course, witli its yet more 
 magnificent prospect, is about a mile 
 from the house. Races were esta- 
 1 dished here in 1802, and the course 
 is now oiui of the best in the king- 
 dom. " The celebrity which Good- 
 wood races have now obtained is 
 entirely owing to the exertions of the 
 present duke." They lutve, perhaps, 
 
 somewhat declined of late years ; but 
 the meeting, which takes place in 
 August, is still more "aristocratic" 
 than either Ascot or Epsom. From 
 the course it is possible to proceed, 
 either on foot or on horsebttck, for 
 almost any distance along the heights 
 of the chalk hills. The paths and 
 wood walks are all open, and all 
 beautiful. The beech is here the 
 prineiiial tree, smooth stemmed, and 
 with little undergrowth. (For the 
 eastern line, towards Bignor, see 
 2}ost.) On Rook's or St. Roche's Hill, 
 W. (height, 702 ft.), is an ancient 
 camp called the Trundle, circidar, 
 enclosing al:)out 5 acres, with a double 
 vallum and deep fosse. In the centre 
 are the traces of a small building, 
 14 ft. by 11, of flints cemented 
 with a very hard mortar. Its age 
 and puipose are entirely matters of 
 conjecture. From Rook's Hill the 
 tourist may gain the Midhurst Road, 
 and so return to Cliichester. 
 
 A second excursion northward may 
 lie to Kiiiijlij Bottom and Bow Hill. 
 This mtiy be prolonged to UjJ Park 
 at pleasure. The road has no specitil 
 interest until Kingly Bottom itself is 
 reached, 4 m. from Chichester. This 
 is a long narrow vale, lying imder 
 Boir Hill, an outlying spur of the 
 chalk range. It is luost picturesquely 
 wooded throughout ; but its principal 
 feature is a cluster of yew trees of 
 very great age and size. The valley 
 is said to derive its name from a great 
 fight between the men of Chichester 
 and a liody of invading Danes, about 
 the year 1)00. Many of the leaders 
 or " kings " of these last were killed ; 
 and the 4 large barrows on the side 
 of the downs, N. of the valley, are 
 said to cover their remains. Two 
 of them were opened duruig the 
 Archaeological Association's visit to 
 Chichester in 1S53, but no discoveries 
 were made that could even mark 
 their age. At the foot oi Stoke Down, 
 on the E. side of Kingly Bottom, are 
 a number of circular excavations, on
 
 322 
 
 Route 16. — Eartlmm. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 ail average about 10 ft. in diameter, 
 and 4 ft. deep. They have been 
 thought, perhaps without much rea- 
 son, to mark the site of an ancient 
 British viUage. Similar hollows exist 
 on the Dorsetshire downs ; and there 
 is a large group at Worlebnry, on the 
 coast of Somersetshire. 
 
 In Radon Church, E. of the valley, 
 is a monument to one of the Gunter 
 lamilv, somewhat resembling those 
 at W." Witteney and Selsey. St. John 
 the Baptist here stands in the centre, 
 whilst male and female figures kneel 
 on either side. Close beyond Eacton 
 is Stanstead Park (Charles Dixon, 
 Esq.\ with its forest of 1666 acres. 
 The house was built about 1687 by 
 an Earl of Scarborough; but has 
 been a good deal altered. In it is 
 some good Gibbons carving; and a 
 suit of tapestry brought from Flan- 
 ders by tlie first I-ord Scarborough. 
 6 suits of tapestiy were made at Arras 
 for Marlborough and 5 of his gene- 
 rals. This Stanstead suit is the 
 largest, and represents the battle of 
 Wvueudaal. 
 
 The forest lies W. of the house ; 
 and is divided by 3 great avenues, of 
 which the central one is 2 miles 
 long. The tourist may either proceed 
 t] trough Stanstead Forest by in- 
 different roads to Complon, and so to 
 Up Park, or he may ri^turn tiu-ough 
 Kingly Bottom, and proceed to it 
 by N. Marden. The whole of this 
 country is interesting and picturesque. 
 TTp Park ( Lady Featherstonehaugh, 
 r.liout 3 m. from" Stanstead) is perhaps 
 its finest point. The park is large, 
 well wooded, and commands very 
 wide land and sea views. The beech 
 is the principal tree ; there are some 
 clumps of very great size, shadow- 
 ing the deep ferny hollows. The 
 pa'i-k may be visited ; but the house 
 is not generally shown to strangers. 
 It was built at the end of the 17th 
 cent, and is full of interesting col- 
 lections, pictures, carvings, &c. — the 
 most important being a collection of 
 Sevres cluua, bought about 40 years 
 
 since for 20,000i'., and which must 
 now be worth five times that sum. 
 From Up Park it is possible to pro- 
 ceed along the line of the downs to 
 Cocking and so back to Chichester. 
 Nothing can be more picturesque 
 than the scenery ; but much cannot 
 be said for the roads. On the top of 
 the downs at Treijford are 5 very 
 high barrows, placed in a Ime, and 
 called the "Devil's Jumps." 
 
 A still longer, yet by far the most 
 interesting excursion to be made from 
 Chichester, is that across the chalk 
 range to the Eoman remains at Biy- 
 nor. Bignor may be visited from 
 Brighton or Arundel by the help of 
 the rail ; or a torn- may be taken from 
 Arundel by Parliam and Bignor to 
 Petworth, thus including the 4 most 
 interesting points in this part of 
 Sussex ; but the chalk hills, here 
 most picturesque and remarkable, 
 can nowhere be seen so well as in 
 crossing them from Chichester to 
 Bignor — about 12 m. The route 
 should be by I^p "Waltham across 
 Sutton Hill, and so down upon Bignor ; 
 returning to Chichester over Bignor 
 Hill and by the line of the " Stane 
 Street." This will be a long summer- 
 day's work. The distance, owing to 
 steep hills and indifferent roads, 
 cannot fairly be estimated in miles. 
 
 Eartham,' 6 m. from Chichester, 
 about ) m. from the main road, may 
 be visited on the way. Hayiey's resi- 
 dence here, inherited from his father, 
 from whence the "Triumphs of 
 Temper" were sent forth, and which 
 was long a gathering place for the 
 literary world of his time, was pur- 
 chased from the poet by the Eight 
 Hon. Wm. Huskisson, the statesman, 
 and the first victim of English rail- 
 roads. (For the best notice of Hay- 
 ley, by Southey, see Q. E., vol. 31.) 
 The house has been greatly altered. 
 The cltnrrh has a remarkable Norm, 
 chancel arch, of the same type which 
 occurs at Amberley and Steyning. 
 The rest is E.E. In the chancel is
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 16.— B 
 
 ignor. 
 
 323 
 
 a very beautiful monument, erected 
 byFlaxman to a sonotHayley's. An 
 angel holding in the riglit hand a 
 palm-branch, raises, with the left, a 
 coronal of flowers above his head. 
 It is better than any of the Flaxman 
 sculptures in the cathedral. The 
 verses below, recording his son's 
 
 " Gentle manners, his exalted mind, 
 Modestly tirin, and delicately kind,'' 
 
 are by the poet. In the N. aisle is 
 a tablet to Wm. Unskisson, who is 
 buried in the Livei'jjool cemetery. 
 
 Eartham lies among the low hills 
 at the foot of the downs, and the 
 scenery increases in interest from 
 this point. Shortly before reaching 
 Up-Wultham, 4 m., a picturesque 
 valley opens towards Singleton and 
 East Dean. The hills are dotted 
 with scattered wood among beds of 
 fern ; and the chalk begins to disjilay 
 itself more clearly. The little church 
 of Up-Walthani is E. E. with a 
 circular apse. There is no E. win- 
 dow ; two small lancets are arranged 
 on either side. 
 
 At Littleton farm, a short distance 
 beyond, the road turns up over Sut- 
 ton Hill. The view N., that sud- 
 denly breaks upon the spectator as 
 he gains the top of the hill, will not 
 readily be forgotten. The whole 
 sweep of the weald is commanded, 
 with hamlets nestled among tlieir 
 trees at the foot of the downs ; 
 circling round E., with Chanctonbiuy 
 Ring as a termination. W. is Dune- 
 ton Beacon, a still higher point 
 than Sutton Hill. A steep, rough 
 road descends to the Wliite Horse at 
 Sutton, where the tourist had better 
 leave his carriage, and proceed on 
 foot to Bignor, 1 m., at which place 
 there is no inn. The walk is through 
 deep lanes with broken banks, over- 
 hung with spreading oaks and 
 sheaves of traveller's joy — the last a 
 marked feature N. of the hills. At 
 Bignor Church remark the lung lan- 
 cets of the clianccl. In the church- 
 yard are two very large yews. The 
 
 mistress of the villa, whose assistance 
 must be invoked, in order to see the 
 pavements, which are now preserved 
 luider lock and key, lives at an ad- 
 joining farm. At the angle turning 
 into the fields, remark a very jjic- 
 tiu-esquo timbered house, with a pro- 
 jecting upper story. Notlung can 
 be more beautiful than the situa- 
 tion of the villa itself. The colon- 
 nades of its principal rooms opened 
 toward the S.W., to receive the full 
 warmth of such sun as was to be 
 had " in ultima Britannia ;" and 
 looked into the bosom of the green 
 hills with their " holts" of beech and 
 ash trees, their scattered jimipers 
 and hawthorns. The Stane Street 
 — the Eomau road from Reguum 
 (Chichester) to Londinium — de- 
 scends the hill obliquely in full 
 view. Whoever he was, proprajtor 
 or legate, who fixed his lares here, 
 he was certainly not -without an eye 
 for natural beauty ; although he may 
 have had another upon the well- 
 stored forests, the territories of Sil- 
 vaiuis and the Dii agrestes, which 
 spread round him in all directions. 
 
 Bignor is the " Ad decimum," the 
 station at the lOtli milestone from 
 RefjHum (Chichester), of the Itine- 
 raries ; a hulting-iilaee which was pro- 
 bably established at this point of the 
 Roman road on accountof the vicinity 
 of the great vUla ; just as a modern 
 railway "lord " procures a station iii 
 the nt'igltbourh(.)od of his own resi- 
 dence. The site of Ad decimum 
 was doubtful until 1811, when the 
 pavements were first discovered by 
 the farmer to whom the land belonged, 
 who sti-nck up a fragment in plough- 
 ing. There are marks of the plough- 
 share on many of the tiles. His 
 family still own the villa ; and the 
 story of his discovery should by all 
 means be heard from the primitive 
 old lady who shows the remains, 
 and tells how her liusband found 
 tliein when driving his father's team. 
 Tlie fields liad always been known 
 by the names of the "Berry" and
 
 324r 
 
 Route 16. — Bignor. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 tlie "Town" field; in the last of 
 v.iiieh tliere was a tradition that the 
 old " town " of Big"uor had once stood. 
 The earth lay from cue to two feet 
 thick above the pavements. The 
 villa was of unusual dimensions. 
 " The buildings have been traced 
 to an extent of about GOO feet in 
 length by nearly 350 ft. in breadth. 
 The principal houseliold bixildings 
 formed about one half tliat length. 
 They stood round an inner court, 
 w^hich was nearly a rectangular 
 parellelogram. " ' — Wrajht. The chief 
 apartments were on the N.E. side of 
 tiiis court, and opened into a crypto- 
   i)orticus, or ambulatory, surroumling 
 tiie court, at tlie S.W. corner of 
 which were baths and sudatories. 
 There are three principal pavements. 
 The largest, first discovered, was 
 prol)ably that of the tricliniunr or 
 great l)anqnetinghall ; an apartment 
 i'.i 2 divisions, the smaller of whicli 
 lies backward from the court. " It 
 is not improbable that there was a 
 cm-tain thrown across, by which the 
 two rooms might at will he separated 
 or thrown into one.' — TlV/;//«f. Its 
 principal decorations are two cir- 
 cular compartments, one 7 ft. 6 in. in 
 diameter, the other IG ft. The 
 smaller exhibits Ganymede and the 
 eagle : the larger is di^^ded into six 
 compartments, of which those remain- 
 ing contain figures of dancing nymplis. 
 'i'iiis pavement so completely resem- 
 bles one at Avenches in Switzerland, 
 executed about the reign of Titus, that 
 this Sussex villa has been assigned 
 to the same period. In the centre 
 of the larger compartment is a stone 
 cistern, 4ft. in dianu'ter and 1ft. Sin. 
 deep, having a round hole at the 
 bottom, connected with a leaden pipe 
 for carrying off the water. This is 
 also found at Avenches, and not else- 
 where. It may possiljly have served 
 as a fountain. The uneven surface of 
 the pavement is caused by the flues 
 of the hyi^ocaust, by which the room 
 was heated, giving way beneath it. 
 A second pavement, W. of this prin- 
 
 cipal room, displays a remarkable 
 heail, covered with drapery, and with 
 a leafless brancli at tlie siile, wdjich 
 has been called AVinter, and thought 
 to have been one of the four seasons 
 figured at the corners of the pave- 
 ment. It has also been suggested 
 (but most improliably) that the head 
 is that of a British Druid, with his 
 mystic branch of misletoe. The re- 
 maining ornaments of this room de- 
 serve attention. The third pave- 
 ment, a very important one, exhibits 
 combats of Cupids, habited as gladi- 
 ators ; Retiarii, with net, trident, 
 and short sword ; Secidores, with 
 shield, greave for the left leg, and 
 crested helmet ; and Rudiarli, vete- 
 rans, holding a rod, and regulating 
 the combats. Four different scenes 
 are represented. In one, the gladia- 
 tors are preparing for the struggle. 
 In another, they are engaged in it. 
 In a third tlie retiarius is wounded, 
 and the rudiarius is coming to lois 
 assistance ; and in the last, he has 
 fallen, and is disarmed. The N. end 
 of the pavement has a semicircular 
 division, witliin which is a female 
 head ornamented with a chaplet of 
 flowers, and surrounded by a nimbus 
 of a light blue colour. It would 
 seem that Venus and Juno brought 
 their ancient rivalry into Britain, 
 since the appropriation of this head 
 is claimed by both. Tlie W. part 
 of this room was ornamented by 
 Doric columns, of whicli fragments 
 remain. The pavement of a smaller 
 room, 20 ft. by 9 ft. 9 in., is entire, 
 and shows some graceful patterns. 
 Another contains a curious example 
 of the open fireplace — the "caminus"' 
 or " focus" — upon which logs from the 
 Sussex forest were piled up for warm- 
 hig tlie apartment instead of the 
 heated air from tlie hyijocaust. The 
 remains of the bath, and of an exten- 
 sive liypocaust for warming the su- 
 datory, lie at the S.W. corner of the 
 eoiut. There are jiortions of smaller 
 mosaics, and of numerous other rooms. 
 The amljulatory or "crypto-porticus,"
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 16. — Bignor, 
 
 6lo 
 
 which siirroumlecl the whole court, 
 was 10 ft. wide, with a beautiful 
 tesselated pavement. The outer 
 court was much larger than the 
 inner, which contuincd the household 
 buildings, and " seems to have been 
 surrounded by bare walls, although 
 traces of buildings were found in 
 various parts of its interior. The 
 walls of this outer court seem to have 
 continued so as to surround the whole 
 edifice, which perhaps, externally, 
 presented merely the appearance of 
 a great, irregular, square-walled en- 
 closure." — Wright. Although tlio 
 great size of the villa evidently marks 
 it as having been that of one of the 
 chief functionaries of the Kegniau 
 pro\'ince, the mosaics, iu point of 
 execution, cannot be compared to 
 those of (Jorinium (Cirencester), or 
 of Woodljoiu'ue in Gloucestershire. 
 The work is much rougher, and the 
 materials used are not so rich. 
 There are no tessera; of coloured 
 glass as at Corinium. At Bignor 
 Park is preserved a gold ring found 
 near the villa ; one of the finest ex- 
 amiiles of Itomau art in precious 
 metals whicli has been discovered in 
 Britain. The work is chased, and 
 set with an intaglio, representing the 
 figure of a warrior holdhig a buckler 
 before him. A few fragments of pot- 
 tery, &c., are kept at the villa, iu huts 
 which have been liuilt over the 
 jiavements in order to preserve them. 
 The present proprietor is, however, 
 it is understood, anxious to sell the 
 wliole of the remains. They should 
 not be allowed to leave the spot. 
 Half of the interest which at present 
 attaches to them will be lost if they 
 are removed to the British Museum 
 or elsewliere. 
 
 Bignor Park (J. Heywood Hawkins, 
 E.sq.) was long an appendage to the 
 castle of Arundel, and used for fat- 
 tening deer driven iu from the forest. 
 The house commands grand views of 
 tlie Weald and South Downs. It was 
 long the property of Nicholas Turner, 
 Esq., whose daughters, Charlotte 
 
 Smith of ' The Old Manor House, ' 
 and Mrs. Dorset, authoress of the 
 still more widely known ' Peacock at 
 Home,' both resided here for many 
 years. Many of Charlotte Smith's 
 sonnets relate to this neighbom-hood 
 and the banks of the Arun : — 
 
 "Farewell, Arunal on whose varied shore 
 My early vows were paid at Nature's shrine ! 
 
 sighing- 1 resign 
 
 Thy solitary beauties, and no more 
 
 Or on thy roelcs or in thy woods recline. 
 
 Or on the heath, by moonlight lingering, pore 
 
 On air-drawn phantoms . . . ." 
 
 The house contains some imiiortant 
 collections, artistic and arcliieolo- 
 gical, but is not usually .shown. 
 Among them are " admirable im- 
 2)ressions of Albert Durer's etchings, 
 and a marvellously beautiful bronze 
 relief of Parisand Helena. " — Waagen. 
 
 Parhain (see Rte. 18; may be visited 
 from Bignor if the tourist remains 
 in the neighbourhood for more than 
 a single day. The country at the 
 back of the South Downs is no- 
 where more interesting or attractive 
 tlian here, but sleeping accommo- 
 dation is somewhat dilficult to i>ro- 
 cure. There is a White Horse at 
 Sutton, and another at Bury, both 
 small inns, which may do well 
 enough if there are no si)ortsmen or 
 harvest feasts in the way. At Pul- 
 horough and at Storringtoii, each 
 about 4 m. off, are very tolerable 
 iinis ; but at some distance from the 
 best scenery. 
 
 "Fuci, particularly a branclied 
 species, Fucoides Targionii, occur 
 abundtmtly iu tlie fire-stone, or upjier 
 greensaml, at the foot of the chalk 
 downs, near Bignor." — Mantdl. 
 
 The return to Chichester should 
 be made over Bignor hill. The road 
 can scarcely be called one at all ; 
 and although it is passable for 
 wheels, a stout pony will do the 
 work far better. Tire hill sides are 
 here much more wooded than in other 
 parts of the South Downs, and are 
 picturesque in proportion. Tlie 
 green coombes, and the patclies, de- 
 
 Q 3
 
 326 
 
 Boute 17. — East Grinstead to Hastings. Sect. II. 
 
 licious to the eye and the imagina- 
 tion, of " liolt ' and " shaw," as the 
 little woods are locally named, to- 
 getlier with the incessant play of light 
 and shade along them, will recall 
 Copley Fielding at every step. (Fur 
 a general notice of the South Downs 
 see Introd. : Sussex.) 
 
 Bunj mU, the next E. of Bignor, 
 has a large barrow or tumulus on the 
 top. There is also a group of bar- 
 rows on the S. ridge of Bignor Hill ; 
 from the top of which a magnificent 
 view opens seaward, with the Isle of 
 Wight W., and beyond the Arundel 
 woods, E., the hill crests above 
 Steyning and Brighton. There is 
 here a direction post from which the 
 Roman road descends in a straiglit 
 line upon Chichester, the cathedral 
 spire terminating the vista. This 
 luie may be taken, or anotlier towards 
 Slindon (marked on the post). This 
 last is a green road, with very pictur- 
 esque trees scattered along its course. 
 Bale Park ( — Fletcher, Esq.) stands 
 on the very edge of the Downs. Re- 
 mark the oak-like form taken by the 
 beeches on this high ground. 
 
 Slindon beeches, which are scattered 
 up and dowai a valley at the back of 
 Slindon Park, fidly deserve their 
 celebrity, and should not be neg- 
 lected by the artist. Slindon Park 
 itself (Countess of Newburgh) is an 
 Elizabethan house containing a long 
 upper gallery. It is not generally 
 shown. An older house here is said 
 to have been built by an early Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury ; and Stephen 
 Langton, the famous Archljiishop of 
 Magna Charta (it is also asserted), 
 died here. From this point the 
 tourist may return to Chichester by 
 the West Hampnett road. 
 
 ROUTE 17. 
 
 EAST GRINSTEAD TO HASTINGS. 
 
 (This route will take the tourist 
 over the " Forest ridge," one of the 
 most picturesque parts of Sussex. 
 The cross-roads are indifferent. Two 
 days should be given to this excur- 
 sion. The resting-place may be at 
 Mayfield, at Maresfield, or (if much 
 accommodation is not required) at a 
 toleralile wayside inn, the " Cross in 
 Hand," above Walcbon. 
 
 The " Forest ridge " is the name 
 given to tlie elevated tract of sand- 
 stone wliich runs diagonally across 
 E. Sussex from Horsham to Hastings. 
 It is so called from the remains of 
 the great Andredswood, which once 
 covered it completely, and of which 
 the forests of Ashdown, St. Leonards, 
 Tilgate. and Worth are relics. For 
 tlie geology of this tract, and for the 
 history of its ancient iron- works, see 
 Introd. : Sussex.) 
 
 From Three Bridges Station a 
 branch line runs E. to East Grinstead, 
 7 m. (Inn: Dorset Arms), whose 
 church, on its lofty ridge, serves as 
 a landmark to all the surrounding 
 couutiy. 
 
 East Grinstead Chui'ch has been 
 3 times rebuilt, the first havhig been 
 destroyed by lightning in 1684. 
 The tower of its successor fell in 
 1785, and was replaced by that now 
 existuig ; lofty and pinnacled, and 
 very effective at a distance. The 
 ch. is ded. to St. Swithin, and con- 
 tains (preserved from the earlier 
 liuilding) a Brass of Catherine, wife 
 of P. liCwkner of Brambletye (d. 
 1505). Here is also the tomb of 
 Speaker Abbott (Lord Colchester), 
 d. 1829. 
 
 The principal object of interest in 
 East Grinstead is Sackville College, 
 founded 1(J09 by Robt. Sackville, 2nd 
 Earl of Dorset, whose will provided
 
 Susssx. Route 17. — BramUetye. — Ashdown Forest. 
 
 527 
 
 1000?. for LiiilJiug this college, and 
 330?. per anuiim for the muhiteuauce 
 of its inmates, a certain niuuber of 
 poor men and women. The foimda- 
 tion is one of the most liberal since 
 the reformation, and recent improve- 
 ments have much increased the im- 
 portance of the college. The hall 
 and chapel liave been rebrxilt since 
 1848, from designs by Butterfield, 
 who has also superintended many 
 lesser alterations. The college stands 
 on high ground, and commands noble 
 views towards Ashdown Forest. It 
 is of grey sandstone, and forms a 
 quadrangle, round which are ar- 
 ranged the different apartments. 
 A set of rooms on the N.W. side is 
 called The Dorset Lodghigs, having 
 been set apart for the accommodation 
 of the founder's family. 
 
 A warden, 2 assistant wardens, 6 
 brethren, and G sisters, make up the 
 present establishment. The patron- 
 age is m the Sackville family. 
 
 The town of East Griustead con- 
 tains many old timbered houses. 
 About 3 m. S.E. from the ch. are the 
 remains of Brambhtye House, of no 
 great interest in tliemselves, and 
 which certainly will not now be 
 visited for the sake of any fictitious 
 imi^ortance conferred on them by 
 Horace Smith's romance. The house 
 was built temp. James I. by Su- 
 Henry Compton. In 1683 it was 
 the property of a Sir James Eick- 
 ards, during whose absence at a 
 great hunt in Aslidown Forest, rims 
 the tradition, the house was searched 
 on suspicion of ti-eason. Large sup- 
 plies of arms and other military stores 
 were discovered, and the news was 
 conveyed to Sir James, who escaped 
 to Spain without returning to Bram- 
 bletye House. This was left ludn- 
 habited, and gradually fell into decay. 
 The few remains are of James I.'s 
 time ; but the scenery of the valley 
 in which they stand is more attrac- 
 tive than the ruins themselves. 
 
 Not far from Brambletye is Forest 
 Row, a straggling hamlet said to 
 
 have been originally built for the 
 accommodation of the lords and their 
 retinue, who came to " rouse the hart" 
 in the adjoining Forest of Ashdown. 
 Kidbroohe (Lord Colchester) adjoins. 
 
 At Tm-ner's Hill, W. of the Church 
 of East Grinstead, is the birthi)lace 
 of the river Medway ; which nms 
 through Forest Kow and then turns 
 northward on her way to the Thames 
 her bridegroom. 
 
 From East Griustead the tourist 
 may cither descend at once upon Ma- 
 restield ( Etc. 15), passing from thence 
 either W. to Battle or S. to Lewes, or 
 he may proceed by Hartfield and 
 Rotherfield to Mayfield, thence mak- 
 ing his way along the ridge to Battle. 
 This last coiu'seis to be recommended. 
 Some interesting places may be 
 visited ; and the iieculiar scenery of 
 this part of Sussex will be seen to 
 the best advantage. 
 
 In either case the tom'ist will skirt 
 the wild district of Ashdown Forest, 
 now bare and treeless, but once 
 covered with deep woods of ash and 
 beech, the greater part of which 
 were destroyed for the use of the 
 iron furnaces, when Sussex, and this 
 forest ridge in especial, was the 
 "Wolverhampton" of England. 
 Ashdown is included in the elevated 
 line of which Crowborough beacon is 
 the highest point, and which stretches 
 in a direction from N.W. to S.E. 
 between the 2 ranges of chalk hills. 
 In all this country ironstone is fomid 
 hi more or less profusion ; and such 
 names as " Furnace Pond," " Forge 
 Pond," " Cuider Hill, ' " Hammer 
 Pond, " constantly occur, indicating 
 the sites of ancient iron works. (See 
 Introduction: Sussex.) 
 
 The greater part of Ashdown 
 Forest lies within the manor of 
 Maresfield, and like it, was attached 
 to the honor of " the Eagle" or 
 Pevensey. Amongst other lands 
 assigned to John of Gaunt in com- 
 pensation for his castle of Eichmond, 
 was Maresfield, including the forest, 
 which henceforth is frequently called
 
 328 
 
 Route 17. — Hartfield. — Withyam. 
 
 Sect. 11. 
 
 " Lancaster Great Park." About 
 1 0,000 acres of the forest were en- 
 closed within a fence, and well 
 stocked with deer. Diuing the civil 
 M'ars, however, the fences were 
 broken down and the deer killed ; 
 and the whole remained waste until 
 the Eestoration, when it was granted 
 to the Earl of Bristol. It is now 
 divided among various proi^rietors. 
 
 The whole" of the forest is open 
 heathland, here and there rising into 
 considerable elevation. At rare in- 
 tervals, on the lower ground, a relic 
 of tlie old wood still survives ; but 
 the desolation, the prospect of which 
 made Drayton's "Daughters of the 
 Weald ■' 
 
 " Under the axe's stroke fetch many a griev- 
 ous groan, 
 
 When as the anvil's wciglit, and hammer's 
 dreadful soiuid, 
 
 E'en rent the hollow woods, and shook the 
 queachy ground," 
 
 has been thoroughly accomplished, 
 and the chalk downs are scarcely 
 more bare of wood than the Forest 
 of Ashdown. The scenery is wild, 
 broken with deep "gills" and glens, 
 and from the higher pouits wide 
 views are commanded. Pepping- 
 ford Lodge (John Mortimer, Esq.) is 
 surrounded by an extensive park, 
 well worth a visit for the sake of its 
 pictm-esque scenery. Maresfhdd Furl; 
 iJ. V. Shelley, Esq.) was one of the 
 earliest Sussex residences of the 
 Shelleys, who settled here temp. 
 Hen. VIII. 
 
 Hurfjidd (about 7 m. from East 
 Griustead) lies on the N. edge of the 
 forest. The chiu'ch has E. E. and 
 Dec. portions. In this parish are 
 some scanty remains of Bolehrook, an 
 ancient house of the Saekvilles. It 
 was of brick, and dated from the 
 loth cent. Tliere are tine views 
 from HoJlii Hill, P<-rry Hill, and 
 High Beeches, all lying N. of the 
 village and on the borders of Kent. 
 
 IMuch of tVie church at Withyam, 
 (2 m. from Hartfield) was destroyed 
 by lightning early in the 17th cent. ; 
 
 but there are still some E. E. por- 
 tions. The Dorset chancel was rebuilt 
 in 1G2I. It contains 3 monuments 
 worth notice. The earliest is an 
 altar tomb of white marble, for 
 Kichard Earl of Dorset, d. 1677. 
 An infant son lies m the 'centre ; the 
 father and mother stand on either 
 side ; the earl died before the monu- 
 ment, originally intended for the son 
 alone, could be erected. The 2 re- 
 maining monuments are — Duke of 
 Dorset, d. 1799 {NoUekens), and 
 Duke of Dorset, killed by a fall from 
 his horse, 1815 (Flaxman). Pope's 
 verses on tlie Earl of Dorset, who 
 died at Bath in 1705, usually prmted 
 as " in the Church of Withyam " 
 are not here, although the Earl him- 
 self, 
 
 " The grace of courts, the Muse's pride," 
 
 is buried in the church. 
 
 In this ch., as in Hartfield, and 
 others througliout the district, are 
 several iron tomb slabs, of local 
 manufactiire. They are said gene- 
 rally to indicate the graves of pro- 
 prietors of foundries. 
 
 S.E. of the cliurch are the remains 
 of BiuMiurst, for many centuries the 
 residence of the Saekvilles. Early 
 in the 17th cent, the family obtained 
 a grant of Knole in Kent from the 
 Crown; having represented the "ex- 
 treme bad ways ' which made travel- 
 ling difficult in the neighbourhood of 
 Bucklnu'st. Thither they removed, 
 and the stately old mansion of Buck- 
 hurst was suftered to fall into decay, 
 a part of the materials being used for 
 building Sackville College in East 
 Gruistead. The size and import- 
 ance of the ancient house may be 
 estimated from the ground-plan in 
 Wulpole's ' Anecdotes of Painters,' 
 vol. i. The solitary survivor of so 
 much magnificence is tlie gate tower, 
 of no very great hitercst. Adjohiing 
 is the modern house of Buckhuist 
 Park (Lord Delawarr). 
 
 From Withyam the tourist may 
 make his way through the N.E.
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 17. — Heathfidd. — Cade Street. 
 
 329 
 
 skirts of Ashdown Forest to Crow- 
 horougl) (4 m.), the greatest eleva- 
 tion in tliis part of the couutiy (804 
 ft. above sea-level). The view over 
 the foreground slopes of fern, across 
 the shaduw-swept^^'eald to the South 
 Downs, is worth all the labour of the 
 ascent. The sea is visible near 
 Beachy Head. Crowborough was 
 one of the great Sussex beacon sta- 
 tions ; and the "beard of flame" on 
 its crest has blazed up on more 
 occasions than the approach of the 
 Armada. 
 
 1 m. E. of Crowborough Hill is 
 Roil I er field, one of the few Sussex 
 churches which can Ijoast of a spire. 
 The original chm-ch was founded 
 by " the ealdonnan Bcrhtwald of 
 Sussex," who had been cured of a 
 grievoiis sickness by a visit to tlie 
 shrine of St. Denys, and who, having 
 brought back with him some relics 
 from the monastery, built a ch. here 
 on his "Villa of Eidrefeld," in which 
 to place them. Berhtwald after- 
 wards (in 792) gave his church to the 
 Abbey of St. Denys, which foiuida- 
 tion established a cell here. The 
 present ch., ded. to St. Denys, is 
 mainly E. E., and lias an open roof 
 of chestnut. It has lately been well 
 restored, when a mural painting, 
 representing the martyrdom of St. 
 Lawrence, was found near the 
 pulpit. 
 
 From Eotherfield, by cross roads, 
 the tourist may visit Maijfield (3 m. 
 seelUe. VI.) 
 
 All this country will be best ex- 
 plored by the pedestrian, who will 
 find his pilgrimage in search of the 
 pietiu-esque amply rewarded. Owing 
 to the pecixliar formation of the 
 Hastings sand, the whole district is 
 In-oken into hill and valley, forming 
 a class of scenery quite distinct from 
 that of any other part of Sussex, and 
 strongly resembling some corners of 
 Devon. Nothing of this is seen from 
 any line of railroad. The " pictu- 
 resque old villages, the veneraljle 
 farms niched into the hill sides, with 
 
 the ' wallet' oak in front of tho 
 porch, and the green loisli- or meadow 
 below," the hollow with its group of 
 old ash-trees, and deep lanes himg 
 with fern and wild flowers, afford a 
 succession of pictures well worth the 
 seeking. Tlierc are tolerable coun- 
 try Inns at Mayfit-hl and at Maresfield, 
 which the tourist will find good 
 centres. 
 
 From Mayfield a lower spur of the 
 forest ridge may be reached at 
 
 Ilenthfield, 6 m., tln-ough scenery of 
 the character already noticed. The 
 summit of the ridge will be gained 
 at Cniss-in-hfind, where is a small 
 country inn. The view from this point 
 is magnificent, extending far over the 
 Weald E. and W., with the line of 
 the S. Downs and the sea in front. 
 Heathfield ch. is of no great interest. 
 Ileathfield I'ark (G. E. Towery, 
 Esq.) was long the residence of 
 General Elliot, the famous defender of 
 Gibraltar ; whose title of Lord Heath- 
 field was derived from this place. 
 The house has since been greatly 
 altered. The park is very fine, and 
 c(jmmands noble views : the South 
 Down range in especial is seen well 
 from here. At tlie N.AV. corner is 
 Heathfield Tower, a mark for the 
 entire weald, rising as it does from 
 ground abuut GdO ft. above sea-level. 
 It was built in honour of the hero of 
 Giltrtdtar (Cali:)es defensori), by 
 Francis Newbery, Esq., to whom 
 Lord Heathfield's .successor sold the 
 estate. From the top of the tower 
 the views embrace much of Kent and 
 Sussex, with the coast-line from 
 Beachy Head to Hastings. 40 
 churches are visible. The scene is 
 fine, but not finer than that from 
 Cross-in-hand. 
 
 About ^m. from Heathfield Park 
 is Cade Street, where a tradition 
 asserts that Jack Cade, the proposed 
 reformer of the commonwealth, was 
 killed by Alexander Iden, Sherifl' of 
 Kent. Cade is said to liave been 
 playing at bowls in the garden of an 
 alehouse in the village, when he was
 
 330 
 
 Route 17. — BrightUng Down. 
 
 Sect, n 
 
 struck dead by a shaft from Ideii's 
 bow. Heathticld in Kent also claims 
 to have been the scene of Cade's 
 death ; but his name was conuiion 
 throughout this part of Sussex, of 
 which, in spite of Shakespeare (see 
 lite. 8, Ashford), he seems to have 
 been a native ; and he is known to 
 have been a follower of Lord Dacres, 
 to whom Heathtield Park then be- 
 longed. The pillar at Cade Street, 
 marking the spot of his supposed 
 death, was erected, like Heathfield 
 Tower, by Mr. Newbery. 
 
 One of the largest iron furnaces in 
 Sussex was situated about 1 m. below 
 Heathfield ch. The cannon cast here 
 bore a high reputation, and were 
 considered the best manufactured at 
 an English foundry. Traces of the 
 furnace and banks are still visible ; 
 but all working has long ceased. 
 
 At Warbletun, adjoinuig Heathfield 
 S., are the remains of a Priory of 
 Avigustinian Canons, removed from 
 Hastings by Sir Jolm Pelham, temp. 
 Hen. tV. The remains, now ad- 
 joining, and forming part of, a farm- 
 house, may be worth examination ; at 
 all events the beauty of the site will 
 repay a visit. Tanner asserts that 
 the intention of removing the monas- 
 tery " never fully took effect;" but 
 the buildings were evidently erected, 
 although flic Canons may not have 
 been settled there. 
 
 Warbletou Church contauis the 
 very fine Brass of William Prestwick, 
 Prior of Battle (d. 143G). The ap- 
 parel of the Cope bears the inscrip- 
 tion " Credo quod redemptor mens 
 vivit." The canopy, crested with the 
 " pelican in her i)iety," deserves espe- 
 cial notice. A loft in the tower is 
 said to have been used as a prison 
 during the Marian persecutions ; but 
 the visitor need not place implicit 
 confidence in certain so-called ap- 
 pliances for torture exhibited on the 
 door. Richard Woodman, the prin- 
 cipal Sussex martyr, whose long ex- 
 amination will be found in Fox, was 
 certainly confined at Warbleton. He 
 
 was an iron-master ; and the sites of 
 his foimdry, and of his dwelling- 
 liouse, adjoining the churchyard, are 
 still pointed out. After long im- 
 prisonment he was burnt with others 
 in front of the Star inn, at Lewes. 
 
 Burkstcep and Cralle are old man- 
 sions, now farmhouses, in this parish, 
 and may rejiay a visit. There is a 
 very extensive view from Iivood, S.E. 
 of the village. In the parish of 
 WahJroa, S.W. of Heathfield, are the 
 remains of 3 fine old residences : 
 Horeham (of the Dykes) ; Tanners 
 (of the Fullers) ; and Fopingworth 
 (of the Dalrymples). All thi-ee are 
 now farm-houses. 
 
 Keeping along the ridge toward 
 Battle, DalUiigton, 4 m., commands a 
 noble view from the church tower. 
 The Pelham Buckle appears on the 
 outside walls. 
 
 BrirjMling JDoimi, which the road 
 here skirts, is the highest part of the 
 ridge ; it commands perhaps the 
 finest panoramic view throughout the 
 Weald, — which figures in Turner's 
 " Coast Scenery," though not without 
 a considerable display of " Turnerian 
 topography." The French coast is 
 occasionally visible ; and a grand 
 sweep of Sussex, Kent, and Surrey, 
 stretches away into the blue distance. 
 The highest point of the Down is 
 marked by an observatory, 64G ft. 
 above sea-level, built by J. Fidler, 
 Esq., of Rose Hill Park. Not far 
 from it is a lofty pillar, also a con- 
 spicuous landmark, and said to be 
 visiljle from the neighljourhood of 
 London. The site of the ancient 
 beacon on this Do\vn is called 
 " Browns Burgh." 
 
 Brightlhig Church contains some 
 fragments of stained glass, but is of 
 no very high interest. 
 
 Bose Hill (A. E. Fuller, Esq.), and 
 Soehnersh (John Hallaway, Esq.), are 
 in this parish. 
 
 From Brightling the tourist may if 
 he pleases find his way through a 
 country full of deep lanes, and steep, 
 short hills, to Ashhurnhum Flace
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 17. — Ashhuniham. 
 
 331 
 
 (Earl of Ashhuniham), 4 m., a place 
 which ought to he one of the most 
 interesting in Sussex, hut which is in 
 reality one of the most disappointing. 
 The most adventurous wanderer will 
 sound his horn before its portals 
 in vain. The reli(;s of Charles I. 
 given to his attendant Jolin Ash- 
 bumham, and by one of his suc- 
 cessors " bequeathed to the parish 
 for ever," " to be exhibited as great 
 curiosities," have been removed from 
 the chm-cli, where they were long- 
 preserved, to Ashburnham House — 
 where, together with other collec- 
 tions of great iiiterest, they are en- 
 tirely inaccessilde to tlie public. 
 
 The relics (whieli were exhibited at 
 Manchester) consist of the shirt worn 
 by Charles on the scaffold, still show- 
 ing faint blood spots on the wrists ; 
 the khig's watch, his white silk 
 drawers, and the sheet tlu'own over 
 the body after the execution. " The 
 superstitious of the last, and even of 
 the present age, have occasionally 
 resorted to these relics for the 
 cure of the King's evil." (Ilorsfidd.) 
 
 The finest private collection in 
 England of MSS. and printed books is 
 at Ashburnliam Place. The printed 
 books nearly equal the Grenville 
 Library ; and the MS. collection, so 
 far as Latin and European languages 
 go, is periiaps the most splendid dis- 
 play of ancient literature ever broiight 
 together by a subject. Amcwig other 
 treasures preserved liere is the well- 
 known collection of BISS. made by 
 M. Barrois, a Belgian, which con- 
 tains some of the most valuable 
 productions of Netherlandish art. 
 The house also contains a collection 
 of old plate, well deserving of ad- 
 miration and study ; and among the 
 armour is an Elizabethan embossed 
 suit, an object of the highest rarity 
 and value. Three well-known pic- 
 tures — the portraits of Rainier Anslo 
 and his mother, by Eemhrandt (one 
 of liis most important works) ; a 
 village festival by Tenters ; and a fine 
 landscape by Cuyp—viere bought in 
 
 at the sale of Lord Ashburnham's 
 collection in 1850, and are probably 
 still at Ashburnham Place. 
 
 Ashburnliam Churrli stands in the 
 park close to the house, and is ac- 
 cessible, though not without some 
 difficidty. It was entirely rebuilt by 
 the same John Ashburnliam, " of the 
 bedchamber" to Charles I. and XL, 
 who died in 1671. It contains the 
 monument of himself and his 2 
 wives ; and of his brother. Sir 
 William Ashburnliam. The grey 
 cliureh tower combuies well with the 
 red Inick of the mansion, tlie greater 
 part of which is modern, and wliich 
 stands, with gables and a U'fty tower, 
 a picturesque mass on a knoll in a 
 wide " coonibe " backed with steep 
 woods. No part of this mansion, 
 the residence of Fuller's " family 
 of stupendous antiquity, wherein the 
 eminency hatli equalled the anti- 
 quity," is shown. There is a public 
 patli through the park, which tlie 
 stranger will do well to follow. It 
 commands very striking views, and 
 on the S. side the wliole line of coast 
 is visible, terminating in the grey 
 cliff of Beacliy Head. 
 
 Bertram de Eshlnu-uliam was 
 " vice-comes" of Kent and Sussex at 
 tlie time of the Conqueror's invasion. 
 Harold's writ, commanding liim to 
 assemble the " posse comitatimi," 
 was, says Fuller, " lately in the 
 possession of this family." 
 
 Ashburnham was famous for its 
 irou-furnace, the last which ceased 
 working in E. Sussex. Its site, with 
 the " hammer ponds," still remain in 
 tlie N. part of the parish. Ashburn- 
 liam iron was tlie best in England. 
 " It excelled in quality of toughness ; 
 and I have been assured by smiths 
 who have used it, that it was no wise 
 inferior to the Swedish metal, gene- 
 rally accounted the best in the 
 world.' (ilf. A. Lower.) 
 
 A drive of 4 m. tlirougha pleasant 
 open country, witli the grey old 
 abbey in siglit nearly the whole way, 
 will bring the tourist to Battle (see
 
 oo^ 
 
 JRoute 18. — Horsham to Slioreham. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Pite. 12), whence he may pioeeud hy 
 railway (G m.) to Radiiujs (^Kte. 12). 
 
 ROUTE 18. 
 
 HORSHAM TO SHOREHAM. 
 
 By rail to Horsham (London and 
 Brigliton Eailway, Horsham branclij, 
 thence by road to Shoreham. 
 
 A short l)rancli line of 9 m. runs 
 from the Three Bridges Station, on 
 the Brighton Railway (Ete. 1-1), to 
 Horsham. At 
 
 IJ m. Crawley, is a small Dee. 
 church, which has been restored. 
 Tiie oaken roof is now uncovered, 
 and on one of tlie tie-beams is carved 
 the legend — 
 
 " Man yn wele bewar ; for warldly good 
 maketh man blyiide. 
 Bewar be lor whate comyth be hinde." 
 
 In the centi'e of the village is a pic- 
 turesquely-shattered old oak-tree. 
 
 The line proceeds through a 
 wooded district (part of St. Leonard's 
 Forest, see pod) to 
 
 9 m. Horsham (Pop. of parish 5947. 
 Jniis : King's Head ; Anchor). The 
 name, says tradition, is from tlie 
 Saxon chief Horsa, who, it is also 
 asserted, was killed near this place. 
 A mound at Horded, near Aylesford 
 in Kent, is also pointed out as his 
 tomb ; no doubt the true signification 
 of the name is liors-hain, the horse 
 meadow. 
 
 There is some pleasant country in 
 the neighbourhood 'of Horsham, but 
 the only object of interest in the 
 place itself is the Churcli, which well 
 deseiTcs a visit. It is E. E. witli 
 
 Perp. additions. The nave and chan- 
 cel are of one pitch ; the chancel 
 gable being terminattd on eitlier side 
 by E. E. buttresses, capjied with re- 
 markable iiilastered pinnacles. Tlie 
 interior roof is Perp. ; the lofty arches 
 E. E., as is the clerestoiy. Portions 
 of the tower may be Nonn. The 
 large chantry adjoining the. N. porch 
 is apparently that called the Trinity 
 Chantrv, founded by Sir John Caryll, 
 temp. Hen. VIIL 
 
 Horsham was long in the hands of 
 the powerful house of Braose, to 
 whom the building of the church may 
 be attributctl,and whose wealth seems 
 to have been as freely bestowed here 
 as at Shoreham (see jjos^ and Rte. IG). 
 In the chancel are — the altar tomb, 
 with effigy, of Thomas, Lord Braose, d. 
 139G : much nmtilated and scratched, 
 but important as an armour study — 
 the tomb, witli effigy, of Elizabeth 
 Delves, d. 1054 ; in white marble and 
 very good ; the feet rest on a lion, 
 one liand on a book — and a canopied 
 altar-tomb of Sussex marble, said to 
 be that of Thomas Lord Hoo, d. 
 1455, who long acted as Chancellor 
 of France, and rendered very im- 
 l^ortant services to Heniy VI. both as 
 soldier and statesman. Queen Eliza- 
 beth was comiected with him through 
 the Boleyns, and it is said that the 
 tomb was repaired by her order after 
 one of her Sussex progresses. Ou 
 the chancel floor is the Brass of a 
 priest in a lettered cope. 
 
 E. of tlie churchyard is the Gram- 
 mar ScIjooI, founded 1532 by Richard 
 Collier. 
 
 The quarries from which the Hor- 
 sham Stone is obtained, with which 
 the town is paved, and many Sussex 
 churches are roofed, are about 1^ m. 
 from the town, but are now little 
 worked. Local celebrities are — 
 Nicholas of Horsham, a physician 
 tenq). Hen. VI. and Barnaby Lintot, 
 the famous publisher, born here in 
 1G75. To his press the world is in- 
 debted for Gay's 'Trivia' and 
 Po])e"s ' Iliad and" Odyssey.'
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 18. — St. LeonarcVs Forest. 
 
 ooo 
 OOO 
 
 From the clmrel lyard a pleasant 
 path leads into Deiine Park (C. G. 
 Eversfiekl Esq.), which is open to 
 the public. The park is itself high 
 ground, and connnands fine views 
 over the N. Weald ; Leith Hill and 
 Tower forming conspicuous land- 
 marks. The house is old and partly 
 covered with ivy. A fine beech 
 avenue, worth visiting, fronts it. From 
 a mound marked by some tir-trees 
 near the entrance from the Horsham 
 road is a good view over the town,half- 
 buried among trees. Chestoorih, the 
 ancient residence of the Braoses, ad- 
 joins Denne Park. It is now a farm, 
 but deserves examination. 1 m. E. 
 is Coolhurst (C. S. Dickens Esq.). 
 The house is Elizabethan, and lately 
 reltuilt. 
 
 St. Leonard's Forest, containing 
 about 11,000 acres, lies E. of Horsliam 
 and forms a part of the parish of 
 Deeding ; from the rest of which, ad- 
 joining Bramber, the castle of the 
 Braoses, it is separated by three 
 entire hundreds. Tliere was m the 
 N. E. quarter a chapel of St. Leonard, 
 which may have given name to the 
 forest. No remains exist. St. Leo- 
 nard, whose emblem is a vane, be- 
 sides his more especial office of assist- 
 ing and releasing prisoners, was one 
 of the patrons of travellers by sea 
 and land ; and his cliapels, both here 
 and at Hastings, were in the direct 
 routes of passengers to Normandy. 
 
 St. Leonard's forest was held by 
 the Braose family probably from the 
 time of the Conquest, and is now 
 divided among several proi)rietors. 
 It is mostly oak and beech; but has 
 some ancient jjine scattered through 
 it; and there are extensive planfci- 
 tions of larches. 3Iike Mill's Mace, the 
 principal avenue in it, is 1^ m. long 
 and contains 15,000 trees, none of 
 which, liowever, are of more than 80 
 j'ears growtli — tlie older avenue 
 havmg been entirely destioyed by 
 a tremendous storm of wind. Mike 
 I^Iill, says tlie tradition, ran the dis- 
 tance for a wager, and dropped dead 
 
 at the end of tlie race. The eleva- 
 tions within the forest are not great, 
 though i)arts are picturesque, and 
 tliere are some deep " gills " or water- 
 courses. It was formerly asserted 
 that, like the entire county of 
 Devon, the forest could lioast of no 
 nightingales. Althougli the country 
 round about, says Andrew Borde " ys 
 replenysshed with nyghtyngales, they 
 will never singe within the precincts 
 of the foreste, as divers keepers and 
 other eredilde parsons dyd show me." 
 The nightingales were said to have 
 once disturbed a hermit who had 
 fixed his cell in the forest ; he be- 
 stowed a curse upon tliem in return 
 for their songs ; and from that time 
 they were unable to pass the boun- 
 daries. "CrediJjle parsons" hi the 
 neighliourhood now, however, assert 
 that, although the nightingales are 
 very capricious — singing in one wood 
 and altogether avoiding the next — 
 they nevertheless abound within the 
 limits of the forest. A greater wonder 
 still was tlie " strange monstrous ser- 
 pent or dragon, lately discoveied, and 
 yet living to the great annoyance and 
 divers slaughters both of men and 
 cattle, in St. Leonard's forest, August 
 1(J14 ;" but this southern " Dragon of 
 Wantley" never attained to great 
 celebrity. Its history seems to have 
 been developed from an earlier le- 
 gend, which asserts that St. Leonard 
 himself f lught v.ith a " mighty worm 
 in the forest. The strife was renewed 
 at many difierent places, and wherever 
 the saint's Idood fell to the ground 
 patches of lilies of the valley sprang 
 up. These llowers still abound here 
 in the spring, when all the neighljour- 
 hood "goes a lilying." A gloomier 
 piece of folk-lore declares that a 
 headless phantom springs up behind 
 the traveller on horseback through 
 the forest by niglit, and cannot be dis- 
 lodged until the 1 loundaries are passed. 
 The Anui and the Adur, two of 
 the principal Sussex rivers, both have 
 their main sources in this forest; 
 and the Ouse rises a short distance
 
 oo4 
 
 Route 18. — Horsham to Shoreham. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 without the southern bouiidaiy. Tlie 
 two large " hammer ponds " not far 
 from Coolhmst are relies of the old 
 Sussex iron -works (see Iiitrod.). 
 Their bottoms and sides are studded 
 with a fresh-water mussel (Anodon 
 anatina), locally known as the " Crow 
 mussel" from the eagerness with 
 which it is sought and devoured by 
 the carrion crow. 
 
 In the forest are Holmbush (T. 
 Broadwood, Esq.), picturesquely si- 
 tuated, and St. Leonard's Lodge 
 ( — Hubbard, Esq.) ; 4 m. from 
 Horsham, and S. of St. Leonard's 
 Forest, is Nuthurst, in which parish 
 the woodland scenery is perhaps more 
 attractive than that of the forest it- 
 self. Nidhurst Lodge (I. T. Nelthorpe, 
 Esq.) commands very fine views, in- 
 cluduig a distant fringe of sea. ^ m. 
 N.W. from the house are the remains 
 of an ancient castle, which for some 
 centimes after the Conquest belonged 
 to the family of " Le Selvage," and 
 tiien to the Braoses. The founda- 
 tions are circular, and surrounded by 
 a wide moat. An adjoining well, 
 lined with large blocks of stone, is 
 called the " Nun's Well." The little 
 cliurch of Nuthurst is ancient and 
 worth notice. 
 
 At li/n^per, 5 m. N., was the small 
 Benedictine Prioiy of St. Mary Mag- 
 dalene. Its origin and date of foim- 
 dation are very uncertain, though it 
 was i^robably established by the 
 family of Braose. There are no 
 traces of the Priory except the name 
 of Numiery House given to its suc- 
 cessor. At a farm called Normans 
 the family of Mutton professes to 
 liave been established since the Con- 
 quest. A chest is jireserved here, 
 said to have been " brought over the 
 water" by the "Mutton" who 
 arrived with the Conqueror. The 
 ch. has some E. E. portions. In it 
 are lialf-length Brasses of John and 
 Agnes Kyggcsfeldge, about 1375, and 
 others of Thos. and. Marg. Challouer, 
 1.532. 
 
 Ktitpp Castle, 6 m., with its por- 
 
 trait gallery (see Etc. 14), may be 
 visited from Horsham. The excur- 
 sion may easily be made to embrace 
 the Nuthurst woods and scenery (see 
 ante). 
 
 There is no public conveyance from 
 Horsham to Pulborough ; but horses 
 and cai'riages are to be had at the 
 King's Head. Crossing towards tlie 
 Staue Street, 1 m. rt., is Field Place, 
 the birthplace of Shelley (Aug. 4, 
 ] 792). Here the poet passed the first 
 years of his life, one of liis greatest 
 amusements being the management 
 of a boat upon Warnham pond ; and 
 here, after leaving Eton in 1809, he 
 wrote the ' Wandering Jew,' a long 
 metrical romance, portions of which 
 were imblished in 1831 in ' Eraser's 
 INIagazine,' and the greater part of 
 'Queen Mab.' He never returned 
 to Field Place after his marriage. 
 The house stands low, and com- 
 mands no prospect ; some portion is 
 ancient, but it has been much al- 
 tered. It came into the possession 
 of Sir Bj'sshe Shelley, the poet's 
 grandfathei; tlu-ough his marriage 
 with the heiress of the Michell family, 
 which had resided there for many 
 generations. Behind Field Place 
 lies Warnham Court (Sir H. Pelly), 
 a large modern Elizabethan man- 
 sion. Warnham pond, m the S. part 
 of this parish, covers 100 acres. 
 
 The Chm-ch of Itchingfield, 3 m., 
 has a low tower constructed of 
 roughly squared oak timber, which 
 is however not earlier than the late 
 Dec. period. There are similar 
 towers at Warnham and at Slinfold. 
 The ch. itself seems to have been 
 originally E. E. A skull and cross- 
 bones were formerly fixed on one of 
 the roof-beams here, a "memento 
 mori" which has only lately been 
 removed. 2 m. beyond Itchinfield 
 the cross-road joins the Roman Stane 
 Street, which ran from Regnum (Chi- 
 chester) to Londinium (Ijondon). 
 
 Billingshurst, 1 m., lying on this 
 road, like the metropolitan Billings- 
 gate (where the road ended), probably
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 18. — Pulborough. 
 
 retains the name of the great Saxon 
 tribe of Billing, of which an ott'sct 
 settled here. The ch. well deserves 
 attention. The S. side is very early 
 Xornian ; the rest, mainly Perp.; 
 Brass, Thos. and Eliz. Bartlett, 1489. 
 Wisborough Green, off the road, rt., 
 is one of the places considered by 
 Kemble as having been consecrated 
 to Woden, nnder his name Wise 
 (Wish). The ch., on an insulated 
 hill, perhaps occupies the site of an 
 heathen place of worship ; it is E. E. 
 almost without alteration. 
 
 The road, which passes straight 
 through the Weald, although showing 
 l^atches of forest on either side, is 
 not very picturesque until it reaches 
 
 Pulborough, 5.| m. The large church 
 has portions (chancel and N. aisle) 
 E. E., the rest early Pei-p. The 
 whole is of a type unusual ui Sussex, 
 though common in the W. and mid- 
 land counties. The font is early 
 Norm. Brasses: Thomas Harlyng, 
 Canon of Chichester and rector of 
 Kingwood and Pulborough, 1423 
 (fine) ; Edmund Mille and wife, 
 1452 ; and Ed. Mille, Ins son (in 
 furred gown) 1478. These were 
 removed from a sepulchral chapel of 
 the Mille family, formerly in the 
 churchyard. Due W. of the ch. is a 
 circular mound, partly artificial, on 
 which was a Roman "castellum," 
 commanding the jimction of the 
 Arun and Kother. A foimdation 
 arch still remains. Remains of a 
 circular Roman IMausoleimi were 
 found at IMare's hill in tins parish in 
 1817. There are traces of a villa, 
 which has been very imperfectly ex- 
 amined, at Borough, N.E. of the 
 N^illage, on the brow of a hill over- 
 looking the Weald. Roman urns and 
 coins have frequently been found ; 
 and one of four Roman jiigs of lead, 
 all of which were stamped with the 
 letters — 
 
 " tcltrpvibrexarg" 
 
 and discovered here in 1824, may now 
 be seen in the gallery at Parham. The 
 
 inscription has not been satisfactorily 
 explained. The whole of these re- 
 lics are due to the neighbourhood 
 of the Roman road — the Stane Street 
 — which passes through Pulborough 
 m its way to Biguor and Chichester. 
 A short distance below the church 
 are the remains of Old Place, the 
 mansion of the Apsleys. They seem 
 temp. Hen. VI., and are worth ex- 
 amination : what remauis of the 
 barn, is perhaps earlier. 
 
 There is a small inn (The Swan) 
 at Pidborough, at which very toler- 
 able accommodation can be had. The 
 coimtry round has many points of 
 hiterest, although the best scenery, 
 close under the South Downs, is still 
 at some distance. 
 
 At Ilardham, 1 m. S., are the scanty 
 remains of a small priory of Augus- 
 tinian Canons, founded by Sir William 
 Dawtrey temp. Hen. II. The exist- 
 ing arches and mouldings are Trans. 
 Norm., but of no great interest. The 
 rude E.E. ch. is dedicated to St. 
 Botolph. Opposite the priory is a 
 Roman entrenchment called Chanc- 
 tonburij, about 400 ft. square, mark- 
 ing the S.W. course of the Stane 
 Street. 
 
 Pulborough is a central point, 
 from wliich the tourist may proceed 
 — first, along the course of the Rother 
 to Petworth <;j m., passing Stopham, 
 Fittleworth, and Egdeau. The coun- 
 try is pleasant and varied, and there 
 is a fine \aew from a hill above Stop- 
 ham^ the church of which place is 
 interesting. It is partly Norm, and 
 contains a series of Brasses of the 
 Bartelott family, hereditary sene- 
 schals to tlie Earls of Arundel, from 
 their first settlement here in the 1 4th 
 cent, to the time of Charles I. The 
 fragments of stained glass are said 
 to have been brought from the hall 
 windows of the ancient manor-house, 
 now rebuilt. — Or he may descend 
 upon Arundel, 9 m., cro.ssing Bury 
 Hill. — Or thirdlj', proceed by a cross 
 line which here joins the Stane Street, 
 l>assiiig at the back of the South
 
 336 
 
 Route 18. — Ambcrley. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Downs, through Storiingtou ;iud 
 Steyniug to Shoreham. 
 
 Storrimjton, 3\ m., lias a tolerable 
 luu, the White 'Horse. An omnibus 
 runs from here every other day 
 daring the summer, through Steyn- 
 iug to Worthing. Tlie ch. contains 
 two monmuents by Westmacott. Ex- 
 cursions may be made from here to 
 Amberley and Parham. 
 
 The road to Amherleij, ?>\ m., passes 
 close under the South Downs, but 
 not where they are most attractive. 
 Tlie village itself should be visited 
 for the sake of the fine ruins of the 
 castle built here by Bp. Eede, tenii^. 
 liieh. II. These stand on a low sand 
 roek, overlooking a marsh called the 
 "Wild Brook" {hrooh is generally 
 used in Sussex to signify a marsh), 
 from which in smnraer much turf is 
 cut, and a profusion of cranberries 
 gathered, but which is Hooded in 
 winter. The river Anm runs through 
 it, and here are still caught the 
 "Amberley trout," one of Fuller's 
 "four good things" of Sussex. They 
 are salmon peel. The casUe formed a 
 parallelogram, having a square tower 
 Qt cacli corner rising above the walls, 
 and two round towers (S.) flanking 
 the gateway, which is not unlike tliat 
 of Lewes. This part is sufficiently 
 jiicturesque. The N. wall is the 
 most perfect. On this side was tlic 
 chapel, of which there are still some 
 indications. The present dwellhig- 
 liouse, in the upper or Green Court, 
 was built by Bp. Sherburne 1.5US. 
 In one of the apartments, called the 
 Queen's room, were long preserved 
 some curious paintings on pannel, of 
 tlio same character as the series of 
 liishops in Chichester Cathedral, the 
 work of one of the Bernardis. These 
 have now disappeared : but the carved 
 ceiling is still worth enquiring for. 
 The bishoj^s of Chichester seem to 
 have had a residence here from tlie 
 l)eriod of the Conquest, but it was 
 not castc^llated until ],379. It was 
 plundered and dismantled by Wal- 
 ler's trooi) after the surrender of 
 
 Arundel in 1G43. The castle is still 
 an appendage to the see, but has long 
 been under lease. 
 
 The little Clmrch of Amberley will 
 be found scarcely less interesting 
 than the castle. It has Norm, and 
 E. E. portions. The Norm, chancel 
 arch resemliles that of Eartham, but 
 has an enriched solfete. The S. door 
 is very rich E. E. On the S. wall are 
 traces of mural painting, and the red 
 consecration crosses remain on the N. 
 and W. walls. Adjoining the pulpit 
 is an liom--glass stand. In the S. 
 aisle is a small Brass of John Wantell, 
 1424 ; a tabard with short sleeves, 
 worn over the armour, is enamelled, 
 vert, with 3 tiger's heads argent. 
 
 The difference between Amberley 
 in its winter and smnmer dress is 
 expressed in the local saying which 
 makes the whiter reply to, "Where 
 do you belong?" "Aniberiey — God 
 help us :" and the summer; "Am- 
 l)eiiey — where woidd you live ?" 
 The best views of the quaint, old- 
 fashioned village, with its long castle 
 walls and low church-tower, are 
 gained from the Arundel road on 
 the farther side of the river, where 
 the downs form a picturesque back-   
 ground. Close beyond, the Arun 
 runs seaward through its gap in the 
 downs, passing under Bury Hill. 
 
 Parham (Hon. K. Curzon), 1\ m. 
 from Storrington, may be visited in 
 returning from Ambcrley, and is one 
 of the most interesthig places in 
 Sussex. The house is Elizabethan, 
 with some modern additions, and 
 like many Sussex houses of the same 
 character, lies close under the Downs, 
 in a fine old chase, full of the most 
 picturesque scenery. It was built 
 by Sir Thomas Palmer, early in the 
 l(jth cent., and passed in 1597 to the 
 family of Bisshopp, represented by 
 the present baroness de la Zouch. 
 The great interest of Parham how- 
 ever lies in the collections of armour, 
 ]MSS., early printed books, ancient 
 plate and metal work, enamels, &c., 
 l)rincix)ally made by the author of
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Houte 18. — Parliam. 
 
 337 
 
 the ' Monasteries of the Levant.' The 
 libraiy contains about 100 ^sTitings 
 on tablets of stone and wood, or on 
 rolls, including 1 ancient Egj^^tian 
 MS. on hncn, and 22 on papyrus ; 
 others on vellum, &c. ; and about 200 
 MS. books, mostly folios on vellum. 
 These are interesting from their great 
 antiquity, 4 or 5 being of the 4th 
 century, and several, in the Greek, 
 Coptic, and Syriac languages, haviiig 
 been written' before the year 3000. 
 Some are richly illuminated. Many 
 are bound in faded velvet, orna- 
 mented with bosses and plates of 
 silver-gilt. The New Testament m 
 the Coptic language has been printed 
 by the Society for promoting Chris- 
 tian Knowledge, priucii^ally from the 
 MSS. at Parhara, which have been 
 freely tendered to any persons desi- 
 rous of studjang them. The early 
 printed books are about 200 in num- 
 ber. Among these are the Maza- 
 rine, German, and Greek first Bibles ; 
 the 5 folio editions of Shakspeare ; 
 the Monte Santo di Dio, tlie earhest 
 book containing copperplates ; seve- 
 ral Caxtons, and books printed by 
 Wynkyn de Worde ; the German and 
 Latm editions of De Bry's Voyages ; 
 and a chrty-looliing folio (from the 
 Malone and Chalmers collections), 
 containing Montaigne's Essays, 1(303, 
 and A World of Wonders, 1G07, with 
 the autograph of W. Shakspeare in 
 the begimiuig. Here are also the 
 first editions of Homer and of Vu-gil, 
 on vellum ; &c. &c. 
 
 There is also a collection of ancient 
 gold and silver plate, consisting of 
 reliquaries, cups, salvers, &c. ; early 
 enamels, carvnigs in ivory, and early 
 metal-work. Some of these are set 
 with jewels, or are remarkable for 
 the beauty of their workmanship or 
 then- higli antiquity. Of these, be- 
 tween 60 and 70 are ecclesiastical ; 
 and about 170, things not belonging 
 to the church. In the same room 
 with the collection of works in metal 
 are several early pictures in dis- 
 temper, by Giotto, Giovanni Bellini, 
 
 and others, including an early work 
 of Eaifaelle, when he was studying 
 under Pcrugino at Perugia. 
 
 These collections are of course not 
 generally shown. The rest of the 
 house and its contents are made ac- 
 cessible to strangers with great libe- 
 rality. 
 
 The hall has the arms and quar- 
 tering of Elizabeth, on the wall, over 
 the spot where the queen is said to 
 have dined, in the year 1592, on her 
 way to Cowdray. Pound the walls, 
 and in tnie ' armoires' Ceases for 
 armour), placed in the window re- 
 cesses and behind the screen, is a 
 most imjiortant collection of armour 
 of all coiuitries and ages, tiie greater 
 part of wliich however is of the 15tli 
 cent, and came from the desecrated 
 chiu'ch of St. Irene at Constautmople, 
 where it was piu'chased by Mr. 
 Curzon. It is the armour of the 
 Christian knights who defended Con- 
 stantinople against the Sultan Ma- 
 homet II. in the j'ear 1452. A MS. 
 account of this purchase, and of the 
 principal objects of interest m the 
 hall, drawn up by Mr. Curzon him- 
 self, lies on tlie great table, and the 
 visitor will do well to consult it. 
 Remark especially, in the armoire 
 which stands in the oriel, some pieces 
 of armour engraved by Hans Bmg- 
 mair for Maximilian of Austria.— 
 A shield which belonged to the un- 
 fortunate Courtenay Earl of Devon, 
 who caused so much jealous feeling 
 between the sisters Mary and Eli- 
 zabeth. — A German executioner's 
 sword, which has done severe duty 
 in its time, and which may be ho- 
 noured, if not for its deeds, at least 
 for the result of them, since the 
 executioner became ennolded after 
 having officiated a certain number 
 of times. — A thumb-screw, and cuii- 
 ous lock from an old house pulled 
 down in the High Street at Chiches- 
 ter. — Two antique helmets (one 
 Etruscan) from a tomb in the Nea- 
 politan territory of Bari, and tlie 
 linest yet found, with the exception
 
 538 
 
 Route 18. — Parham. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 of a similar one preserved at Bignor 
 Park : and a small model of a helmet 
 found at Castri (Delphi), and pro- 
 bably " the salve of some ingenious 
 Greek who had vowed a .helmet 
 to Apollo." — A cylindrical English 
 helmet of the 12th cent. — Venetian 
 helmets of the 15th cent., retaining 
 their original covering of red velvet. 
 Here is also some rich Mameluke 
 horse furniture. In the case behmd 
 the screen is some 15th cent, oriental 
 armour from St. Irene, deserving at- 
 tentive notice, especially a breast- 
 plate which may perhaps have be- 
 longed to the Sultan Mahomet II. ; 
 and a gauntlet and chamfron of 
 copper gilt, which, from the Arabic 
 inscriptions on tliem, appear to have 
 been made for Saladin. Among the 
 groups arranged on the walls, re- 
 mark particularly some gilt and em- 
 bossCLl shields of Italian workman- 
 ship. 
 
 In the small draimng room are : a 
 Holy Family by Pontormo, brought 
 from Italy by Mr. Curzon ; two 
 Ostades; and four remarkable ena- 
 mels on copper, representuig the 
 seasons, by Pierre Courtois, of Li- 
 moges. In a cabinet in this room 
 are some smaller Eastern curiosities. 
 
 In the dining-room, among others, 
 are portraits of Lady Frederick 
 Campbell, the widow of the Lord 
 Ferrers who was hanged, by Gains- 
 horough ; and Lady Wilmot Horton, 
 with the autograph verses ui^on her 
 by Lord Byron, beginning, "She 
 walks in beauty like the night." 
 
 The large drawing-room is full of 
 jiortraits of very liigh interest. 
 Henry IV. (Pourhus). A superb 
 Vandy'ie, of Mary Curzon, gover- 
 ness of Charles I.'s children, and 
 honoured by a public funeral in 
 Westminster Abbey. The Constable 
 Bourbon {Titian), a grand portrait 
 which has been more than once en- 
 graved. Sir Philip Sydney, Lady 
 Sydney, and the Earl of Leicester, all 
 three full-lengths, by Zucehero. Of 
 more uncertain charactei', but all 
 
 worth notice are — the Prince of 
 Orange, father of William III. ; 
 Lord Crewe, Bp. of Durham ; 
 Lord Maltravers, eldest son of the 
 last Fitzalan, Earl of Arundel ; Earl 
 of Worcester ; Sir Francis Walsing- 
 ham, father of Lady Sydney; and 
 Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick, 
 elder brother of Leicester. The 
 three portraits in tliis room to be 
 especialhj remarked, however, are the 
 Vandyke, the Titian, and the Zuc- 
 ehero of the Earl of Leicester. On 
 either side the fireplace hang two 
 curious landscapes on copper, by 
 Marco Ricci ; a sketch of St. John, 
 by Buffaelle; a Holy Familj', by 
 Jacobello Flores, the master of Era 
 Angelico ; and on the opposite wall, 
 a large Holy Family, by Carlo Mar- 
 ratti. Here are also two very fine 
 busts, Poppsoa (?) and Augustus 
 Ca?sar ; the last wonderfully grand. 
 
 In the Morning Boom is a good 
 portrait of Lady De la Zouch, by 
 Angelica Kaufman. The Old Li- 
 hrartj beyond is hung with Venetian 
 stamped leather, having Chinese de- 
 signs. 
 
 In ascending to the Gallery, at the 
 top of the house (alwaj-s a great 
 feature in a true Elizabethan man- 
 sion\ remark the small window open- 
 ing into the kitchen, from which the 
 mistress might occasionally inspect 
 the progress of operations below. 
 
 The Gallery is 158 ft. long, and 
 contains a series of historical family 
 pictui'es, many of which are curious. 
 Among them are, Queen Elizabeth 
 at the age of 25. Sir Henry Wootton, 
 by Cornelius Jansen. Sir William 
 Harvey of Ickworth, " third husband 
 of Penelope Darcy, daughter of 
 Earl Eivers, who promised her 3 
 suitors, Sir George Trenchard, Sir 
 John Gage, and this Sir William 
 Harvey, that she would marry them 
 all in turn," which she did. Charles 
 Paget, brother to Lord Paget, con- 
 cerned in the Babmgtou plot, and 
 concealed for some time, mider the 
 name of Eoper, on this coast (possibly
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 18. — Parliam. 
 
 339 
 
 in Parham), -whence be escaped, 1586. 
 A large water-colour drawing, about 
 S ft. square, of the Murder of the 
 Innocents, by Eajf'aelle : this formed 
 one of the hangings in the aijartments 
 of the painttr, in his palace in the 
 Borgo, at Eome. In one recess 
 is a good collection of china, and 
 m another a very remarkable as- 
 semblage of " literary antiquities,' 
 MSS., inkstands, and writhig imple- 
 ment.-^, — among them the pencase of 
 Henry YI., from Waddingtou Hall, 
 Yorkshire. On the opposite wall are 
 someEgj'ptian antiquities, and others, 
 brought from the East by Mr. Cur- 
 zon. The most interesting is an ark 
 of Egyi^tian sycamore, from Thebes, 
 white and powderj^ and covered in 
 front with hieroglyphics, among 
 which is the cartouche of Amuuoph 
 I., 1550 B.C. It is thus 50 years 
 older than the Mosaic Ark of the 
 Covenant, the form of which m all 
 probability resembled this at Par- 
 ham, although the dimensions were 
 rather larger : — 
 
 Length. Width. Height, 
 ft. in. ft. in. ft. in. 
 
 Ark of C. . . 4i 2 3 2 3 
 
 Parham Ark 2 9 11 14 
 
 The ark, when discovered, was filled 
 with small images of Egyptian divi- 
 nities. 
 
 On the floor is the Roman pig of 
 lead from Pulborough. 
 
 The views from the gallery win- 
 dows, toward the Downs on one side, 
 and to Pefrworth Park on the other, 
 should not be unnoticed. 
 
 At the farther end of the gallery 
 is the chapel. Over tlie door are 
 three half-lengths (St. John and two 
 monks), tlie work of Andrea, brother 
 of Luca della Robbia. There is some 
 good wood-carving in the chapel, 
 some early stained glass, and a 
 cui'ious font (Elizabethan) from a 
 ch. in Oxford. A wooden one re- 
 sembling it exists at Moulton in 
 Lincolnshire, and one in marble at 
 St. James's in London. 
 
 The church closely adjoins the 
 
 house, but contains nothing of great 
 interest. The font is leaden, and of 
 the 14th cent. 
 
 The forest-like j^ark, or rather 
 chase, with its thickets of birch and 
 whitethorn, and its wide branched 
 elms and oaks, the latter especially 
 grand and picturesque, is one of the 
 finest in Sussex. On all sides the 
 artist will find sylvan pictures of 
 the highest beautj', with a back- 
 groTind of green hill caught here 
 and there between the rich masses 
 of foliage. Here, in the centre of a 
 thick wood of pine and spnice fir, 
 is one of the few remaining English 
 heronries. Advancmg witli the ut- 
 most caution, the visitor may per- 
 haps invade the colony without dis- 
 turliingit, and hear the "uideseribabla 
 half croaking, half hissing soiuid," 
 uttered by the young birds when in 
 the act of being fed. The slightest 
 noise, however, even the snapping of 
 a stick, will send off the parent birds 
 at once. " The herons assemble early 
 in February, and then set a1)out re- 
 pairing their nests ; but the trees are 
 never entirely deserted duruig the 
 winter months, a few birds, probably 
 some of the more backward of the 
 preceding season, roosting among 
 their boughs every night.'" (A. E. 
 Knox). Thej' commence laying early 
 in Blarch, and from the time the 
 young buxls are hatched, imtil late 
 in the summer, the parent herons 
 forage for them day and night. The 
 nimilier of nests has gone on increas- 
 ing of late years, there being now 57. 
 The Parham heronry has its history 
 Early in the reign of James I. the 
 ancestral birds were brought by 
 Lord Leicester's steward from Coity 
 Castle, in Wales, to Penshurst. There 
 they continued for more than 2 cen- 
 turies, and then migrated to Michel 
 Grove, not far from Arundel, and 
 about 8 m. S.E. of Parham. About 
 17 years since Michel Grove was 
 bought by the Duke of Norfolk, who 
 pidled down the house and felled 
 1 or 2 trees in the heronry. The
 
 340 
 
 Route 18. — Wiston — the Shirley s. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 birds at once commenced their mi- 
 gration, and in three seasons all had 
 found their way to the Parham woods. 
 A clump in the vicinity contains a 
 raven's nest, the only one now known 
 in this part of the country. An ac- 
 count of the migration of these ravens 
 from Petworth is given in IMr. Knox's 
 amusing work. 
 
 From Storrington the road to Steij- 
 ning still keeps close luidcr the 
 Downs. The villages of Sullingion 
 and Washington are picturesque, hut 
 need not delay the tourist. Wiston 
 (4 m.) is more important. Some of 
 the grandest Down scenery is in this 
 parish, includmg Chandonhury Iting, 
 with its dark clump of trees, a land- 
 mark for half Sussex. It is tlie third 
 height of the S. Downs (see Introduc- 
 tion : Sussex), being 814 feet above 
 sea-mark. The entrenchment here is 
 circular, and may be of British origin, 
 but Roman coins have been found : 
 and the Eoman road, nnuiingE. and 
 W., passed not far from the foot of 
 the hill. The views in all directions 
 from tliis camp are grand and pano- 
 ramic, though the scenery is perhaps 
 not so manageable for the artist as 
 that among the hills farther E., above 
 Bignor and Sutton. Wiston House 
 (the Eev. John Goring), below the 
 hill, besides its historical interest, 
 commands views of extreme beauty. 
 The park itself is very fine and undu- 
 lating, and the terrace overlooks the 
 whole richly wooded valley, E. and 
 W., a scene which will not readily be 
 forgotten. The house, like Parham, 
 is Elizabethan, but has been greatly 
 altered. The hall, 40 ft. square and 
 40 ft. high, is very fine, and has a 
 magnificent wood ceiling of Cliarles 
 I.'s time. The manor long belonged 
 to a branch of the great Braose fa- 
 mily, from which it passed by mar- 
 riage into the hands of the Shirleys 
 one of whom, Sir Thomas Sliirley, 
 built the house about 157G. The 
 family was remarkable in many ways. 
 Sir Hugl: Shirley, the first who set- 
 tled in Sussex, was a stanch adher- 
 
 ent of the Red Rose, and one of the 
 4 knights who, clad in royal armour, 
 successively encountered and fell 
 under the arm of Douglas at Shrews- 
 biu'y, 1403. So Shakspeare — 
 
 " Hold up thy head, vile Scot, or thou art 
 
 like 
 Xever to hold it up ajrain ! the spirits 
 Of Shirley, Stafford, i?lunt, are in my arm?." 
 K. Hen. IV., Pt. 1, act v. so. 4. 
 
 His son was present at Agincourt, and 
 his grandson. Sir TItomas, had by 
 Anne, daughter of Sir Thomas Kempc 
 of OUentighe in Kent, 3 sons, the 
 famous " Shirley Brothers," whose 
 adventures were so full of romance, 
 and appeared so wonderful in that 
 age, that a play was comjoosed from 
 them, " by a trinity of poets, John 
 Day, Vvilliam Rowley, and George 
 Wilkins," 1G07, and acted durmg their 
 lifetime. Antliouy Shirlcij (b. 15G.5), 
 after ser\iug in the Low-Country 
 wars, and against the Portuguese 
 settlements on the coast of Africa, 
 " where,'' says Fuller, " the rain 
 did stink as it fell down from the 
 heavens, and within 6 hours did tiuu 
 into maggots," went in 1.598 to Per- 
 sia, on a mission, half religious, half 
 mercantile ; his main object being to 
 induce the Shah to join the Christian 
 l^owers against the Turk. He sailed 
 from Venice ; discovered cofi'ee at 
 Aleppo, " a drink made of seed that 
 will soon intoxicate the brain ; ' and, 
 after sundry perils from Turks and 
 Bedouins, reached Ispahan, where 
 Abbas Shah created him a "Mirza' 
 (the first instance of a Christian 
 receiving an Oriental title), and ap- 
 pointed hun ambassador to the courts 
 of Europe. After a long series of 
 adv<'ntures worthy of an Amadis or 
 a Palmerin, he died in 1630. liohert 
 Shirh-ij, his yoruiger brother, had ac- 
 companied hun to Persia, where he 
 remained, having married Teresia, 
 daughter of a Circassian named Is- 
 mael Khan. He too was sent (or 
 at least professed to have been sent, 
 — see, for the whole story, Burke's 
 'Anecdotes of the Aristocracy,' vol. i.)
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 18. — Stei/ning. 
 
 341 
 
 as ambassador back to Europe, and 
 arrived in Kome wearing the Persian 
 costume, with a crucifix stuck m liis 
 turban. TJience he returned to Wis- 
 tou witli liis wife, was well received by 
 James I., and, after sundry changes, 
 died at Kazvcen in Persia in 1628, 
 and was buried tliere under his own 
 threshold. Teresia ended her life in 
 a Roman nuunery. In 1(J22 Van- 
 dyke painted at Eome the j)ortraits 
 of Eobert Shirley and his wife, now 
 at Petworth. Thoums, the eldest of 
 the 3 brotliers, after a life full of 
 changes, sold Wiston, and died in 
 the Isle of Wight. Their story is a 
 curious exami)le of the love of wan- 
 dering and adventure which then 
 prevailed in England as elsewhere, 
 and is not without a dash of Sjjanish 
 kn i gh t- err a n try . 
 
 No Sliirley relics now exist in the 
 house at Wiston, but the Church con- 
 tains some interesting monuments. 
 That of Sir Richard Sliirley (died 
 1540) exhibits liim standing on a rock 
 between his 2 wives, with his hands 
 sti'etched towards a dove, represent- 
 ing the Holy Spirit. At the sides 
 are 2 brackets for figures of patron 
 saints. Thedetails are Italian. (Com- 
 pare the monuments at Selsey and 
 West Hampnett, Rte. 16.) Against 
 the wall is the monument of Sir Thos. 
 Shirlej-, father of the Ijrothers, and 
 builder of Wiston. Under an arch, 
 on the N. side, is a very interesting 
 effigy of a child in a close vest, pro- 
 bably a son of Sir John de Braose 
 (died 1426). Sir John's own fine 
 Brass, inlaid, and powdered all over 
 with the words " Jesu Mercy,'' lies 
 on the floor of the S. chapel. The 
 adjustment of the sword is miusual. 
 All six shields have the arms of 
 Braose. " Es testis Christe, quod non 
 jacet lapis iste coipus ut ornttur, sed 
 spiritus ut memoretin-," runs its in- 
 scription, one commonly repeated in 
 the brasses of this period. The ch. 
 itself is Dec. 
 
 At Steyninq, l^m., is a tolerable 
 Inn (the White Horse), from which 
 
 \_Kent & Sussex.'] 
 
 an omnibus runs three times a week 
 to the railway station at Shoreham. 
 
 The Church of Steyning, now the 
 main interest of the place, was ori- 
 ginally founded by S. Cuthman, who, 
 born in one of the western counties, 
 was dm-mg his youth in the habit of 
 miraculously guarding his father's 
 sheep by making a circle round them, 
 which no enemy could break through. 
 On liis father's death he travelled E. 
 with his mothei-, who was infirm, 
 canyhig her on a sort of liarrow. 
 The cord broke, and Cuthman re- 
 placed it by some elder twigs ; a 
 part}' of hajanakers close by ridiculed 
 him, and ever after a shower fell on 
 that meadow when the hay was down. 
 The twigs at last gave way again at 
 Steyning ; and here, after buildmg a 
 hut for his mother and himself, heoon- 
 structed a timbered church, in which 
 he was buried. The country was 
 covered with brushwood and thinly 
 inhabited ; liut many pilgrims came 
 to Cutlmian's grave, and the town 
 gradually sprang up round the 
 church. (See life of S. Cuthman, 
 Acta S. Feb. 4, quoted in Sussex 
 Archseol. Coll.) 
 
 The neighboiu'ing palace of the 
 Saxon kings at Bramber no doubt 
 gave imiiortance to the settlement. 
 Ethel wolf, father of Alfred, is said to 
 have been buried in the ch. of Stey- 
 ning .\.T>. 858, but his body was after- 
 wards removed to Winchester. The 
 Confessor granted Steyning to the 
 Benedictine Abbes, of Fe'cauq) in 
 Normandy, and "mlliani confirmed 
 the grant. A cell existed lieie nearly 
 on the site of the present vicarage. 
 At the suppression of alien priories 
 (1 Edw. IV., 1461) Steyiung was 
 transferred to the Abbey of Sion. 
 
 Cuthman's church seems to have 
 been on the site of that now existing, 
 the position of wliich is very accu- 
 rately described in the early life of 
 the Saint. The present church, 
 dedicated to St. Andrew, is no doubt 
 the work of the Et camp Benedictines. 
 It is of two periods. The E. archeB 
 
 R
 
 342 
 
 Route 18. — Bramher. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 of the aisles, and the piers of the E. 
 tower-arch, are early Norm. ; the rest 
 not earlier than 1150. The chancel 
 is modern and indift'erent. The ori- 
 ginal plan of the Iniilding seems 
 never to have been completed (Hus- 
 seij) ; tliere was apparently an inten- 
 tion of erecting a central tower ; and 
 the last piers of the nave are partially 
 inchidf d in the wall, as if not origin- 
 ally meant to cease where tliey now 
 do. Tlie present tower is at the W. 
 end. The nave contsiins " one of the 
 most remarkable series of enriched 
 pier-arches to be met with anj^vhere" 
 (Sharpe). These were, as usual, 
 carved after erection, portions being 
 still unfinished. They belong to the 
 second period (circ. 1150). The 
 chancel-arcli resembles that in the 
 clrarch of Graville in Normandy, 
 which also belonged to Fe'camp. 
 (Compare also those at Eartham and 
 Amber ley.) 
 
 The old gabled house in the street 
 leading to the church is called the 
 ^'Brotherhood Ilnll," and was given 
 by William Holland, Alderman of 
 Cliichester, for the jjurposes of the 
 Grammar School which he founded 
 here in 1614. 
 
 The tide seems anciently to have 
 risen as high as Steyning, the har- 
 bour of which was known as " Tortus 
 Cuthmamii.' It was the higliest 
 and most ancient harbour here ; the 
 sea having gradually retired, first to 
 Old, and then to New Shoreham. 
 
 The advantage and importance of 
 the haven no doubt induced the 
 Saxon kings to establish a fortress 
 at BramJmr, 5 m. from the town ( Sax. 
 Bnjmmhurh, a fortified hill), possibly 
 on the site of a Koman castellum, 
 for an ancient road passed from Dover 
 to Winchester, under the Downs ; and 
 the remains of a Romaii bridge have 
 beendiscovered on ithere, atBramber. 
 After tlie Conquest, the castle and 
 baroi^y were granted to William de 
 Braose, and it was one of the princi- 
 pal strongholds of that great family. 
 As Arundel guarded tlie entrance to 
 
 the Aruu, so this watched over the 
 estuary of the river Adm*. The view 
 from the KeeiJ-mound is very striking. 
 Like Amberley, the castle stands on 
 a sort of promontory overlooking the 
 marshes and tree-dotted meadows of 
 the Adur. The sea is visible S. and 
 E., and W. the hills stretch away in 
 rounded outlines of extreme beauty. 
 Remark the steep escarpment of the 
 chalk hills W., rising direct from the 
 plain, like sea-cliffs, as they no doubt 
 once were. (See Lyell, Geol. ; and 
 Introd., Sussex.) Of the actual build- 
 ing there are few remains. It formed 
 an irregular parallelogram encircled 
 by a deep moat, now filled with trees. 
 The banks are famous for "wealth" 
 of primroses. A solitary fragment of a 
 lofty barbican tower lifts itself within 
 " like a tall tombstone of the mighty 
 race of Braose." In it is a Norm, 
 window witli herring-bone masonry. 
 
 The Church, dedicated to the 
 favourite Norm, saint St. Nicholas, 
 nestles close under the castle-wall. 
 It lias some Norm, portions, and 
 seems to have been originally cruci- 
 form, with a central tower. 
 
 The road from Steyning to Shore- 
 ham, 5 m., runs parallel with the 
 Adur river through the Shoreh am Gaj\ 
 one of tlie transverse valleys of the 
 chalk. " These cross fractures, which 
 liave become river channels, remark- 
 ably correspond on either side of the 
 Weald N. and S. Thus the defiles 
 of the Wey in the N. Downs, and of 
 the Arun in the S., seem to coincide 
 in direction." (Lyell.) The trans- 
 verse fissures were probably caused 
 "by the intensity of tlie vip-heaving 
 force toward the centre of the Weald" 
 during the elevation of the Forest 
 ridge. (See Introd.) Although the 
 Adur here by no means recalls tlie 
 sunsliine of its Pyrenean namesake 
 (both rivers retain the Celtic Dicr, 
 water), it is tlie liaunt of many rare 
 water-birds. " The river above Shore- 
 ham, as far as Beeding Levels, during 
 the spring and autumnal months, 
 will generally repay the patient ob-
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 19. — Godalming to Chichesta 
 
 343 
 
 server, or the persevering gunner, 
 who explores its muddy banks ' (A. 
 E. Knox) ; and " the reed warhhT 
 and its beautiful nest may be found 
 during the mouth of May in the 
 reedy ditelics a little to the W. of 
 the old wooden bridge, about a mile 
 above Shoreham." (/(/.) 
 
 The new college at Lancing is 
 conspicuous from the road. For it 
 and for ShortJiam see Kte. 16. 
 
 ROUTE 19. 
 
 GODALMING, HV PETWORTH and 
 MIDHURST, TO CHICHESTER. 
 
 For Godalming, see Handboohfor 
 Hampshire. 
 
 A coach leaves Godalming daily, 
 after the arrival of the midday trau), 
 for Midhurst, passing through Pet- 
 worth. On alternate days it goes on 
 to Chichester. 
 
 1 m. 1. is Mllford Ilnuse (H. 
 Knowles, Esq.\ The small eh. oppo- 
 site was built in 1S3G. W/'tley Church, 
 2 m., is E. E. with a central tower. 
 Some of the windows are early Dec. 
 There are some fragments of Pei-p. 
 stained glass. On an altar tomb 
 under an open arch between the two 
 chancels is a good Brass of " Thomas 
 Jonys and Jane his wife," one of the 
 servers of the chamber to Henry 
 VIII. The whole church has been 
 well restored. From Witley the road 
 rapidly descends toward Chidding- 
 fold, 3 m., in the Weald. The deep 
 clay is here tliickly covered with 
 wood, and the green, branch-shaded 
 laJies are enlivened liy the venerable 
 Ked Riding-hood cloak, still much 
 worn throughout the district. About 
 
 Chiddingfold green, over which the 
 road passes, eleven glass-houses were 
 in existence temp. Eliz. The work- 
 ing was then prohibited, on a petition 
 from the inhabitants, complaining of 
 them as a nuisance. Cuiders and 
 glass fragments are still found here. 
 The ch. is mainly E. E. with some 
 later portions. 
 
 We are now fairly in the Weald, 
 where the ninnerous old timbered 
 farms and manor-houses constantly 
 remind us of the ancient wealth of 
 oak forest ; the solitudes of which, 
 in their turn, have preserved many 
 yeomen families, representatives of 
 Chaucer's Franklin, throughout long 
 generations. The Entyknapps of 
 Pockford, in this parish, are said 
 to possess a Saxon charter relating 
 to their farm, which has been their 
 property ever since the Conquest : 
 and the families of Wood and Child 
 are of almost equal antiquity. The 
 famous ironstone of the Weald here 
 begms to appear, and there are re- 
 mains of furnaces in the S. jjart of 
 the parish. The hard C'arstone or 
 Clinhers, connected with this iron 
 rock, is much used for road-making. 
 Hence the excellence of the high- 
 ways throughout this part of SiuTcy 
 and Sussex, strongly contrasting with 
 the "deep clay and mire" of the 
 ancient roads. 
 
 Chiddingfold is one of a group of 
 folds ; ancient cattle enclosures in the 
 midst of the woodlands, which have 
 grown into parishes. Dunsfold, about 
 2 m. rt. of the main road, has an 
 early Dec. ch. of some mterest, since 
 it is nearly all of one time. The 
 smuU ch. of Alfold, 3 m. beyond, is 
 Trans. Norm, and is dedicated to 
 St. Wilfred, the first preacher of 
 Christianity in this district. The 
 country here is still covered with 
 wood, and little grain except oats is 
 producible. 
 
 2 m. beyond Chiddingfold we enter 
 Sussex : 1. are the undulating hills 
 and woods of ShiUinglee Parle (Earl 
 of Winterton), withua which is a lake 
 
 R 2
 
 344 
 
 lloiite 1 9. — Petworth. 
 
 Sect. ir. 
 
 covering about 70 acres. There is 
 liere some fine forest scenery. The 
 road however lias no special interest 
 until we reach Petwortli, G m., the 
 long park wall of which it skirts for 
 about two miles. 
 
 The town oi Petworth (Pop. of pa- 
 rish, 3500— Inns: the Half Moon, 
 best ; the Swan) is a mass of narrow 
 and irregular streets, which have 
 grown up about the ancient manor of 
 the Percics ; who, however, verifying 
 the old Danish proverb, that there 
 are three bad neighbours — a great 
 river, a great road, and a great lord —   
 cared more for their parks and chases 
 than for the town ; and Leland says 
 that it had much increased "syns 
 the Yerks of Northumberland used 
 litle to ly there." But its later 
 lords have done much for Petworth. 
 The market-house in the centre of 
 the town, with its bust of William the 
 "Deliverer," was built by George 
 O'Brien, Earl of Egremont; and 
 beyond the ch. is an almshouse 
 founded by Duke Charles of Soiuer- 
 set in the early part of the last cent., 
 a remarkable specimen of the brick 
 building of that time. The church, 
 Perp. for the most part, was restored 
 by Lord Egremont : and the spire is 
 an early work of Sir Charles Barry. 
 Its most interesting portion is the 
 large N. chancel or chantry, originally 
 dedicated to St. Thomas of Canter- 
 bury, in which many of the Pcrcies 
 are buried. A memorial of them 
 was erected here in 1837, by Lord 
 Egremont, then in his 8Gth year : 
 "Mortuis Mori turns. ' It is a figure 
 of Religion leaning on a cross, at 
 the foot of which is placed an 
 open Bible. The left hand holds a 
 chalice, and rests on a kind of sarco- 
 phagus. The sculptor is Carew, "jias 
 raeme academicien. ' " Proh pudor 
 academiiio, non academicus," runs the 
 inscription : but the work is not too 
 good. The Percies commemorated 
 and buried here are the ninth Earl, 
 long the victim of the Gunpowder 
 Plot ; Algernon, the tenth ; and Jos- 
 
 celine, the eleventh, in whom the 
 male line became extinct. Lady 
 Lucy Percy, Countess of Carlisle, 
 also rests here, and a further inscrip- 
 tion records the somewhat doubtful 
 fact that in this ch. is buried Josce- 
 line de Louvain, who, temp. Hen. I., 
 first brought Petworth into the 
 t\xmily of the Percies. A far more 
 successful monument is the sitting 
 figure of Lord Egremont himself, 
 which " Bailey /ac(ek(< 18-10." The 
 altar-tomb against the N. wall be- 
 longs to a knight of the Dawtrey 
 family, 1527. The painted vault- ribs 
 in this chapel are not to be admired. 
 The grand interest of Petworth, 
 however, and that which makes it a 
 resort of art pilgruns from all parts of 
 Europe, is the P'(»7; (Col. Wyndham\ 
 witli its vast and superb collection of 
 pictiu-es. Few English " honours" can 
 show a more undisturbed succession 
 than this. It was granted by " Alice 
 la Belle,' dowager Queen of Henry I. 
 (part of whose dower it had formed), 
 to her brother, Josceline de Louvain, 
 of the great house of Brabant. 
 Josceline married Agnes, heiress of 
 the "Percies owte of Northumber- 
 land ;" and the manor has ever since 
 continued in the hands of tins great 
 family and its descendants, passing, 
 after the death of the last Earl in 
 1700, to Charles Duke of Somerset, 
 who married Lady Eliza1)eth Percy, 
 only child of Earl Josceline, and 
 through his daughter Catherine to 
 the W\^ldhams, in whose hands it 
 now remains. The old castellated 
 house of the Percies seems to have 
 occupied the same site as the present 
 mansion. "It was," says Fuller, " most 
 famous for a stately stable, the best 
 of any subject's in Christendom . . . 
 aifording standing in state for three- 
 score horses, with all necessary ac- 
 commodations." Edward VI. was en- 
 tertahied here for some days ; and in 
 1703 Ciiarles III. of Spain,"" Catholic 
 king by the grace of the heretics," 
 as Walople calls him, rested some 
 days liere on his way to visit Queen
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 19. — Petworth. 
 
 345 
 
 Anne at Windsor. Such rest was 
 needful, as the king had " made no 
 stop on the way from Portsmouth, 
 except when his coach was over- 
 thrown or stuck in the mud." He 
 was met liere by Prince George of 
 Denmark, who had encomitered simi- 
 lar misfortunes in approaching Pct- 
 wortli from Godalming. Tlie Allied 
 Sovei-eigns, the Prince Regent, the 
 Emperor Alexander, and the King 
 of Prussia, who, together with the 
 Prince of Wirtemhurg and the Grand 
 Duchess of Oldenburg, ^asited the 
 Earl of Egremont here in ISli, were 
 happily subjected to no such perils 
 during their progress over roads to 
 which the Sussex " clinlcers," or iron- 
 stone, had by that time been applied. 
 Nearly the whole of the earlier 
 building was removed by the Duke 
 of Somerset, the old chapel being 
 the principal part left. The mass of 
 the present house is therefore of his 
 time (about 1730), but numerous 
 alterations and additions were made 
 by George O'Brien, Earl of Egre- 
 mont. It cannot be said that the 
 house possesses the slightest architec- 
 tural attraction. The front towards 
 the park resembles a strip from an 
 indifferent London terrace, of which 
 the long straight line is only broken by 
 the church spire rising at the back. 
 
 The Petworth collections are at 
 present, with very unusual liberalitj^ 
 made accessible to strangers at all 
 times (with the exception of an hour 
 in the middle of the day), whether the 
 family are occupyhig the house or 
 not. Application should be made at 
 the porter's lodge, hi the iipper part 
 of the town. 
 
 The Grnnd Staircase, into which 
 the visitor is first conducted, was 
 painted by Louis la Guerre for Duke 
 Charles of Somerset. The story 
 throughout is that of Prometheus, 
 with the exception of the right-hand 
 wall, where the Duchess of Somerset 
 (the Percy heiress) appears on a 
 triumphal car, surrounded by her 
 daughters. The paintings are ex- 
 
 cellent specimens of La Guerre ; but 
 the visitor should not linger here, 
 since he has a serious extent of work 
 before him. For the story of the 
 great Percy heiress, "three times a 
 wife and twice a widow before she 
 was IG," and the cause of the famous 
 murder of Thynne, of Longleat (her 
 second husband), by a disappointed 
 suitor, the Count von Konigsmark, 
 see Burke's ' Anecdotes of the Aris- 
 tocracy,' vol. i. Her father, Earl 
 Josceljn, died at Turin, aged only 2(j. 
 The heiress of all his vast estates was 
 married at 13 to the young Earl of 
 Ogle, son of the Duke of Newcastle, 
 who died within a few mouths ; then 
 to Thynne, of Longleat ; and, after 
 his murder, to Charles Duke of So- 
 merset. She ched in 1722, aged 55. 
 
 Of the pictures, many of the Van- 
 dykes rank among his finest works, 
 and so many genuine pictiu-es by Hol- 
 bein as are here assembled are rarely 
 to be seen. The works to be chiefly 
 noticed are — 
 
 Square Dining-room. — Portrait of 
 himself (?) : Tintoretto. Philip II. of 
 Spain: Sir Aidonio More. Male por- 
 trait : Titian. Portrait of Philippe 
 le Bel, father of the Emperor Charles 
 V. : School of Van Eyck. Male por- 
 trait : Van Cleef, according to Waa- 
 gen, but generally attributed to Hol- 
 J)ein. Portrait of a man : School of 
 Giovanni Bellini. Catherina Cornaro, 
 Queen of Cji^rus : Titian. Titian's 
 daughter Lavinia holding a kitten : 
 Titian. Queen Catherine Parr : Hol- 
 bein. Duke of Brabant and his 
 daughter Bega, trachtional foundress 
 of the Beguines : Jordaens. Grand 
 landscape, Jacob and Laban : Claude 
 Lorraine. " This picture, which Wool- 
 lett's masterly engraving has made 
 universally known, is, in point of 
 size, freshness of the silvciy morning 
 tones, carefulness of execution, and 
 delicacy of gradations, one of the 
 most important works of the middle 
 period of the master." — (Waagen.) 
 Holy Family with Angels : Andrea 
 del Surto. Virgin and Child : Sir J.
 
 ?A6 
 
 Ro-ite 19.— Pefworth. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Jteynolds. Tlie young Singer anil the 
 old Connoisseur : Hogarth. Allegory 
 of events in the reign of Charles I. : 
 Tenters. Portrait of "Woodward the 
 comedian : Beijuolds. Oliver Crora- 
 ■well : Walker. Joseeline Percy, 11 tli 
 iind last Earl of Northuniljerland, 
 with a dog : Sir P. Lehj ; very good. 
 
 The following are all by Vandijck, 
 and deserve the most careful atten- 
 tion. Algernon Percy, 10th Earl of 
 Northumberland, with his Countess 
 and child : tliere is a repetition of 
 this picture at Hatfield, Marquis of 
 Salisbury's. Sir Charles Percy. 
 Anne Cavendish. Lady Eich : " The 
 landscape background is unusually 
 fine." Mrs. Porter, lady of the bed- 
 chamber to Henrietta ]\Iaria ; Henry, 
 Lord Percy of Alnwick; Mountjoy 
 Blount, Earl of Newport ; and Lord 
 Goring, with his son. Earl of Straf- 
 ford : " The somewhat heavy brown- 
 ish flesh-tones were doubtless true 
 to life, as they recur in all Vandyck's 
 portraits of Lord Strafibrd. " Henry 
 Percy, 9th Earl of Northiunberland 
 Csuspected of having been privy to 
 the Gunpowder Plot, and confined 
 for 16 years in the Tower) : " This 
 picture belongs in every respect to 
 the great masteii»ieces of Vandyck." 
 William Prince of Orange (father of 
 William III. of England), as a child. 
 
 Duke of Somerset's Boom. — Card- 
 players : Jan Matsys son of Quentin^. 
 Corps-de-garde : Eeclchout. Ijaud- 
 scape : Lucas van Uden. Two land- 
 scapes : Hohbema. Sea-shore with 
 buildings : Claude. " The etfect of 
 the clearest morning light is here 
 given with the utmost delicacy." 
 Portrait of Claas Van Vourhoot, 
 "Brouwer in dos Brouwery Swaan' 
 — Brewer in the Swan brewery — 
 (written on the back) : Frank Hals. 
 Edward VI. under a canopy, date 
 1547, tlie year of his accession, astat 
 10: Holbein. The Archduke Leopold, 
 with an ecclesiastic and tlie painter, 
 in liis picture gallery at Brussels, 
 of which Teniers was the superin- 
 tendent : Teniers. " The imitation 
 
 of the diiferent masters in tlie variou.s 
 pictures is very happy."' Landscape : 
 Gaspar Poussin. Landscape: Sivan- 
 eveldf. Mouth of a cavern, looking 
 out into the country : Old Teniers. 
 View of Scheveling, where diaries II. 
 embarked on his return to England, 
 May24, IBGO: Van Goyen. Portrait 
 of Thomson, the poet : Hudson. 
 Henry Percy, 9th Earl of Northum- 
 berland, painted in 1602, wlien he 
 was serving in the Low Country wars : 
 Vansomer. Prince Kupert : Varelst. 
 Portrait of Brughel, the artist (" Vel- 
 vet Brughel ") : Vandyck. 
 
 On the oak staircase observe two 
 concerts of birds, attributed to Sny- 
 ders by Dr. Waagen, but generally 
 assigned to Hondekoeter. There is a 
 repetition of one in the Berlin Mu- 
 seum. 
 
 The Xorfh Gallery is almost en- 
 tirely devoted to Eiiglisli art. There 
 are some antique sculptures, most of 
 wliich were collected for the Earl 
 of Egremout by Gavin Hamilton. 
 Their interest however is not great. 
 
 Of the modern sculpture notice 
 especially Flaxman's colossal group 
 of the Archangel Michael piercing 
 Satan with his spear, and a Shepherd 
 Boy, by the same master, " one of his 
 best works ' ( Waagen). One of ^V»' 
 Richard Westrnacotfs most striking 
 works is also here, a bas-relief illus- 
 trating the passage of Horace : 
 " Nou sine diis animosus infans," &c. 
 The most important jnctures here 
 are — Children of Charles I : Sir 
 Peter Lely. Sleeping Venus and 
 Cupid, and Vertnmuus and Pomona : 
 both l)y Hoppner. A stormy sea : 
 Cidcotl. Death of Cardinal Beaufort : 
 Sir J. Ileynolds. Witches and cal- 
 dron ; from Macbeth : Beynolds. Still 
 water, with a rock and castle : Wil- 
 son. "One of his choicest pictures." 
 The Cognoscenti, Patch ; and the 
 Punch-drinkers, a copy from Hogarth. 
 In the last the two red coats disturb 
 the harmony of the picture. A scene 
 in Windsor Park : Hoivard. Musi- 
 dora : Opie. Landscape, with shej)-
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route \9.—Pefiwi-th. 
 
 347 
 
 lierd and shepherdess in foreground 
 (much darkened) ; and another with 
 cows and sheep, very beautiful :. 
 Gainshorourih. View in Westmore- 
 land (Eydai Water) : Copley Fielding. 
 Storm in tile Alps, with avalanche : 
 Loutherhurg. The Invention of Mu- 
 sic : Barrij. Edwin (Beattie's Min- 
 strel ) : WestaU. Eape of Europa : 
 Hilton. Michael leavhig Adam and 
 Eve, having conducted them out of 
 Paradise : Phillips. The Infant 
 Shakespeare nursed by Tragedy and 
 Comedy (Lady Hamilton) : Bomney. 
 Mirth and Melancholy — portraits of 
 Lady Hamilton and Mrs. Charlotte 
 Smith, authoress of the ' Old IMaiior 
 House :" Rornney. Portraits of Lord 
 Eodney, Mrs. Musters, General (Gar- 
 diner, Lady Craven and son, a huly 
 with 3 children, ami the cliiklren of 
 tlie Earl of Thanet witli a dog : all 
 by Reynolds. Herodias with the 
 head of John the Baptist : Fuseli. 
 Jacob's Dream ; and Contemplation : 
 by the American artist AUston. 
 Garrick and Ids villa at Hampton : 
 Zoffany and Hodges. Presentation 
 "of Gulliver to the Queen of Brob- 
 dignag ; and Sancho and the Duchess : 
 Leslie. Portrait of Alexander P(jpe : 
 Richardson. Dedication of the Prin- 
 cess Bridget Plantagenet, daughter 
 of Edward IV., to the nunnery at 
 Dartford (an extract from Sandfords 
 Koyal Genealogies is painted on the 
 book at the foot of the pictm-e : the 
 princess died at Dartford about 1517); 
 Richard III. receiving the young 
 Princes in the Tower ; and the 
 Murder of the Princes : all three pic- 
 tures by Norfheote. The mo.st im- 
 portant pictures iii the Gallery, how- 
 ever, are the Turners, of which tliere 
 are many. The Thames and Wind- 
 sor Castle ; the Thames at Wey- 
 bridge ; the Thames near Windsor 
 — an evening scene, with men drag- 
 ging a net on shore ; the Thames 
 from Eton College ; a scene at Tab- 
 ley in Cheshire — the tower in the 
 lake ; an evening scene with a pond 
 surrounded by willows — cattle drink- 
 
 ing, and men stripping osiers ; a sea- 
 view, with an Indiaman and a man- of- . 
 war ; Echo and Narcissus : and Jes- 
 sica — should all be carefully noticed. 
 
 Red Room. — Adoration of the 
 Kings : Hieronymus Bosch ( Waageri); 
 a remarkable jncture, whicli has been 
 generally ascribed to Albert Durer. 
 Travellers attacked by Robbers ; 
 Louis XIV. and the Dauphin at 
 Lisle : Viotli by Vander Menlen. 
 A thunderstorm at sea : Simon de 
 Vlieger. Battle of the Boyne : Dirk 
 Muas. Hillv country near Nime- 
 guen: Albert Ciiyp. ""Of the best 
 time of the master ; and in com- 
 position, transparency of colour, and 
 unusual richness of detail, it is 
 of the liighest merit :" Waagen. 
 Two prelates kneeling : Ridiens. 
 Portrait of Prince Boothliy ; a 
 lady holdhig a letter ; a lady in a 
 turban : all three by Reynolds. 
 Portraits of Sir Robert Shirley and 
 his wife Teresia. (See for a notice of 
 the Shirleys of Wiston, Rte. 18.) 
 These portraits are generally attri- 
 buted to Vandyek, though Dr. 
 Wiagen has some doubt. " They 
 appear too feeble in drawing and too 
 heavy in colour. " Bellori, however 
 {Lives of the Painters), asserts that 
 both Sir Robert and his wife were 
 painted at Rome about 1622 by Van- 
 dyek, then a young man in the ser- 
 vice of Cardinal Bentivoglio ; and 
 that the pictiires were preserved at 
 Petwortli. Other Vandychs in this 
 room are — Frances Howard, Duchess 
 of Richmond ; and Anne Brett, wife 
 of Lionel Cranfield, Earl of Middle- 
 sex — the "bouncing kind of lady 
 mayoress " conniiented on by Horace 
 Walpole at Knole (see Rte. 0). 
 Lodowick Stuart, Earl of Richmond ; 
 and Ralph, Lord Hopton : both by 
 Vansomer. Portrait of an unknown 
 lady in black : Rembrandt. An Ad- 
 miral, said to be Van Tromp : Van 
 der Hist. Countess of Egremont : 
 Gainsborough. Charles II. passing 
 Whitehall in liis carriage : Stoop. 
 
 The Carved Dining - room. — The
 
 348 
 
 Boute 19.— Petivorth. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 walls and cornices of this room (60 ft. ! 
 by 24, and 20 ft. high) are almost 
 covered witli delicate wood carvings 
 by Gibbons. "There is one room," 
 wrote Walpole to Montague (Aug. 
 1749^, " gloriously flounced all round 
 with whole - length pictures, with 
 much the finest carving of Gibbons 
 that ever mj^ eyes beheld. There 
 are birds absolutely feathered ; and 
 two antique vases with bas-reliefs as 
 perfect and beautiful as if they were 
 carved by a Grecian master." " Sel- 
 den, one of his disciples and assist- 
 ants," adds Walpole, in his 'Anec- 
 dotes of Painting ' " (for what one 
 hand could execute such plenty of 
 laborious productions !), lost his life 
 in saving this carvhig when the 
 house was on fire." Jonathan Rit- 
 son, a native of Cumberland, was 
 employed by George O'Brien, Earl 
 of Egremont, and afterwards by 
 Colonel "VVyndham, in tlie completion 
 of this room, which he has done in a 
 style only inferior to that of his 
 celebrated predecessor. Portraits of 
 Gibbons and of Eitson, botli by Clint, 
 hang at either end of this room, 
 opposite the windows. 
 
 It may be questioned whether the 
 pictures here do not suffer from the 
 dark framework of the panels, in 
 which they are placed without the 
 usual gilt moidding ; among them, 
 remark — Charles Seymour, " the 
 proud Duke " of Somerset ; and his 
 first wife. Lady Elizabeth Percy ; 
 both by KiieUt-r. Ijord and Lady 
 Seymour of Trowbridge ; both by 
 Jansen. A very fine portrait of 
 Henry VIII., painted about 1540, 
 by Holbein (that of Anne Boleyn is 
 a copy\ In the lower panels a 
 series of pictures by Turner deserve 
 all attention. The sul)jects are — 
 Chichester Canal, ^sunset ; Petworth 
 Park, sunset ; Brighton from tiie 
 sea ; aud the lake in Petwortli Park. 
 
 Ante-room to Curved Room. — Por- 
 ti-ait of Vandyck : Dohson. Sir Isaac 
 Newton : KndJer dirobably the best 
 portrait of Newton existing). Lord 
 
 Chief Justice Coke: Jansen. John 
 IMarquis of Granby : lieynolds. Por- 
 traits of Colonel Wyndham, of Mrs. 
 "WVndham and her sons : Grant. A 
 nobleman at prayers, and two pil- 
 grims : Van Eyek. Sketch for " The 
 Preaching of Knox " in Sir Robert 
 Peel's collection : Wilkie. 
 
 Marble Hall. — Tiiree unknown 
 porti'aits : Holbein. Portrait of him- 
 self : Vandyck. Cervantes : Velas- 
 quez (a very interesting portrait). 
 Marshal Tiu-enne : Frank Hals. Por- 
 ti-aits of himself aud of his wife : 
 Rembrandt. Guidobaldo I., 3rd Duke 
 of Urbino, from the Albani palace 
 at LTrbino : Raffaelle. Cardinal de' 
 Medici, afterwards Pope Leo X. : 
 Titian; very fine. Paolo Cespedes, 
 an eminent Spanish painter, circ. 
 1600 (artist unknown). Head of a 
 youth : Bronzino. A stream with a 
 ferry : Cuyp. Portraits of Macpher- 
 son (translator of Ossian), Lord North, 
 and Lady Thomond : Reynolds. Por- 
 ti'ait of Mrs. Woffingtou the actress : 
 Hocjarth. 
 
 The Beauty Room — contains (in 
 panels) the portraits of several 
 ladies of the Court of Queen Anne, 
 remarkable for their beauty. They 
 are — The Countess of Portland : 
 Duchess of Ormond ; Duchess of 
 Devonshire ; Countess of Carlisle ; 
 Lady Longueville ; Countess of Pem- 
 broke ; and Lady Howe : all by Dahl. 
 Here are also 2 pictures of Louis 
 XIV. at Fontainebleau and at Maes- 
 tricht : by Vander Meulcn, who at- 
 tended tlie " Grand Monarch " on his 
 military e:!^3editi()ns. 
 
 White and Gold Room.— Here are 
 five portraits of noble ladies by 
 Vandyck, "which combhie all his 
 qualities of elegance of conception, 
 transparency of colour, and spirited 
 treatment:" Waaf/en. They are — 
 1. Lady Dorothy Sidne}', Countess of 
 Sunderland, Waller's " Sacharissa," 
 and sister of Algernon Sidney. 2. 
 Lady Lucy Percy, Countess of Car- 
 lisle, " called by Bishop Warburton 
 ' the Erinnys of her tune ;' and
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 19. — Petworth, 
 
 349 
 
 undoubtedly the most euchauting 
 woman at the court of Charles. 
 Celebrated by Voiture, Suckling, and 
 half the poets of tlie day, it would 
 nevertheless have been better for 
 her hud she courted respect more 
 and admiration less.' (Jesse's Court 
 of the Stuarts.) It was this lady's 
 father, the 9th Earl of Northumber- 
 land, who was confined for so many 
 years in the tower. 3. Lady Dorothy 
 Percy, Countess of Leicester, sister 
 of the Countess of Carlisle, and 
 mother of Lady Dorothy Sidney and 
 Algernon Sidney, i. Lady Elizabeth 
 Cecil, Countess of Devonshire. 5. 
 Lady Anne Carr, Countess of Bed- 
 ford, only daughter of the infamous 
 Earl and Countess of Somerset, who 
 were tried for the miuder of Sir 
 Thomas Overbuiy. She was the 
 mother of the unfortunate Lord Rus- 
 sell, who was beheaded. This pic- 
 ture is, perhaps, the finest in the 
 room ; and has been especially praised 
 by Leslie {Handbook for Painters). 
 "It is the nicely discriminated in- 
 dividual character of every part — 
 the freshness and delicacy of his 
 colour — and the fine treatment of 
 his masses, that have placed Vau- 
 dyck so high among portrait-pahit- 
 ers." — Leslie's Handbook. 
 
 Remark also tsvo pictures by Leslie 
 — Charles II. saluting Lady Mar- 
 garet Bellendeu (from 'Old Mor- 
 talitv' ') ; and Lady Lucy Percy, Corni- 
 tess of Carlisle, bringing the pardon 
 to her father in the tower. During 
 the Earl's imprisonment (he was sus- 
 pected of having been privy to the 
 Gunpowder Plot) he was allowed 
 free intercourse with Sir "Walter 
 Raleigh, a prisoner at the same time ; 
 and Harriot, Hughes, and War-ner, 
 three of the most celebrated mathe- 
 maticians of the age, were the Earl's 
 constant companions, and were called 
 " the Earl of Northumberland's 3 
 Magi." These persons are all repre- 
 sented in the pictru-e. Raleigh stands 
 at the farthest end of the table. The 
 globe near him was painted from one 
 
 at Petworth as old as the reign of 
 Elizabeth. 
 
 The Library. — Virgin and Child : 
 Correggio, "A beautiful picture; 
 in his delicate, but much broken 
 tones, like the 'Vierge au Pauier' 
 in the National Gallery :" Waagen. 
 Early Christians giving instruction : 
 Fasqualino. " Giving Bread to the 
 hungry :' Teniers. Portrait of Charles 
 III., iving of Spain and Emperor, 
 who visited Petworth in 1703 (see 
 ante)   Kneller. Ferdinand d'Adda, 
 Papal Nuncio at the Court of James 
 II. : Kneller. Portrait of Sir Ni- 
 cholas Bacon ( fiither of Lord Bacon), 
 ffitat. 68 (artist unknown). New- 
 market Heath in 1724. The Duke 
 of Somerset's horse "Grey "Wynd- 
 ham," has just beaten the Duke of 
 Devonshire s "Cricket.'' The Duke 
 of Somerset, with his hat off, is speak- 
 ing to the Duke of Cumberland : 
 Wootton. Visit of the Allied Sove- 
 reigns to Petworth in 1814 : Phillips. 
 In this room also are 8 small pic- 
 tures by Elsheimer, which should be 
 noticed from the rarity of this artist's 
 works. 
 
 Numerous pictitres of less import- 
 ance are arranged in the up-stairs 
 apartments, which are not shown. 
 
 The tourist should on no account 
 leave Petworth without visiting the 
 Park, of which the walls are about 
 14 m. in circumference. This, like 
 the house, is liberally thrown open 
 to the public, who may ride or drive 
 in it at pleasure. " We were charmed 
 with the magnificence of the park," 
 wrote WaliJole, " which is Percy to 
 the backbone." To a stranger fresh 
 from the high grounds of Surrey or 
 the S. Downs, the wide open sweeps 
 of the lower park may at first seem 
 tame, but his eye will soon take in 
 the totally distinct character of the 
 scenery ; and what gloiy the views 
 can sometimes assiune he will have 
 already seen within in Turner's pic- 
 tures. There is a large piece of 
 water in front of the house ; grand 
 old oaks and beech-clumps are scat- 
 
 R 3
 
 350 
 
 Houte 19. — Midhurst. 
 
 Ptct. II. 
 
 tered over the heights aucl hollows ; ] 
 and the whole is well peopled by j 
 herds of deer. 
 
 The Upper Park is steeper and | 
 more varied ; and at its highest point I 
 a noble view over the surrounding ! 
 country is obtained from the I'rospeet 
 Tower, which strangers should Vjy all 
 means ascend. The ground here 
 breaks otf sharply in a steep, heathery 
 descent toward the N., a foreground 
 with which the artist will not quarrel ; 
 close below lies the ancient " Stag- 
 Park,' enclosed and brought into 
 cultivation by George O'Brien, Earl 
 of Egremont ; and beyond, the view 
 stretches away to the steep crests of 
 Farnhurst and Heyshott, with the 
 line of Blackdown extending behind 
 them. S. are the S. Downs, with 
 Clianctonbury King and its tree 
 clump conspicuous ; and E. is a wide 
 range of woodlands, the heart of the 
 Weald. 
 
 The Ravens" Clump, so called from 
 its having been the aiumal breeding- 
 place of a pair of those birds (see 
 Kuox"s ' Oniith. Ramhles '), adjoins 
 the ivied tower further E. (The 
 ravens have now removed to Par- 
 ham ; but lately (1857) have been 
 seen ui the clump again, and may, 
 perhaj)S, return to their old quarters.) 
 The view is nearly the same as that 
 from the Prospect Tower. The 
 country lying N. and N.W. of the 
 park, however — the corner extend- 
 ing toward Hindhead — has an espe- 
 cially attractive look, and will repay 
 the sketcher's wanderings. 
 
 From Petworth the villa at Bignor, 
 6 m., may be visited. (See P^xe. from 
 Chichester, Rte. 16.) For a descrip- 
 tion of the Petworth or Sussex 
 marble, of which quarries are worked 
 in most of the neighbouring parishes, 
 see Introd., Sussex. 
 
 The road to Midhursf, 5 m., crosses 
 the country nearly parallel witli tlie 
 line of the S. Downs, distant about 
 3 m. the whole way. The little 
 church of Tillington, close outside 
 the Great Park, contains some Dec. 
 
 portions. That of Lodsworth, i ra. 
 rt., has a sort of " open cloister of 
 timber work " on the S. side. 1^ m. 
 from Midhurst the road enters Cow- 
 dray Park, which it crosses. The 
 l)ark scenery here is of the finest 
 and most " rememberable " kmd. 
 (See post.) Outside the second park 
 gate is the Church of Easeborne, 
 Perp. in character, and originally 
 attached to a small house of Benedic- 
 tine nuns, founded by John de Bohun, 
 temp. Hen. III. Of this there are 
 same remams adjoining : the refectoi-y 
 is now a barn ; and the dormitoi-y 
 and some other portions may be 
 traced. The S. aisle of the church, now 
 ruinous, served as the nuns' chapel. 
 In the chancel is a recmnbent eiiigy 
 in alabaster of Sir David Owen (d. 
 1542 ), a natural sou of Owen Tudor, 
 and in high favour with Henry VIII. 
 The efligy, judguig from the armour, 
 was made dming Sir David's lifetime. 
 He married an heiress of the Bohims, 
 who were also buried here. Here 
 is also the marble monument of 
 Lord Montague (d. 1591), the "great 
 Eomau Catholic Lord," who with 
 his sons and grandson, " a yonge child 
 very eomelie, seated on horse-back," 
 came attended l)y 200 horse to join 
 Elizabeth at Tilbury ; a piece of 
 loyalty which her Majesty never 
 forgot. This monument has been 
 removed here from the chm'ch at 
 Midhurst. 
 
 The old town of Midhurst (Pop. 
 1474 — Lms : Angel, Eagle, New Inn) 
 stands on an eminence above the 
 Rother, navigable fi'om this point to 
 its junction with the Arun at Pul- 
 borough. The " Schola Grammati- 
 calis," which catches the eye on 
 entering, was founded by Gilbert 
 Hannam in 1672, and has enjoyed 
 considerable reputation. Sir Charles 
 Lyell the geologist is one of the most 
 eminent of its pupils. The church, 
 Perp., was chiefly remarkable for the 
 great Montague tomb, which is now 
 at Easeborne. On St. Anne's Hill, 
 at the back of the town, may be
 
 SUSSKX. 
 
 Route 19. — Cowdray. 
 
 351 
 
 ti-aced the foundations of the old 
 Castle of the Bohims. 
 
 The ruins of Cowdray, of which 
 the tourist will already have caught 
 a glimpse, 1., in passLug tlirougli the 
 park, must not be left unvisited. 
 Cowdray remained in tlie hands of 
 the Bohnns mitil the reign of Henry 
 VIII., when their heiress brought it 
 to Su' David Owen. It afterwards 
 passed to Sir Anthony Browne, " great 
 standardbearer of England," created 
 Viscoimt Montague in 1554, the first 
 of seven viscounts in regular succes- 
 sion. In 1843 it was sold to the 
 Earl of Egmont, the present pos- 
 sessor. There is a modern cottage 
 residence in the j^arlc, not far from 
 the ruins. 
 
 The grand old house of Cowdray 
 was entirely destroyed by an acci- 
 dental fire iu 1793, and in the follow- 
 ing month the last Lord Montague, 
 still igjioraut of his loss in England, 
 was drowned in attempting to shoot 
 the falls of Scliaii'hausen. The 
 house, like Cothele and Haddon Hall, 
 was antique in all its fittings and 
 "plenishing." "Sir," said Dr. John- 
 son, when he visited it from Brighton, 
 " I should liice to stay here four-and- 
 twenty hours. We see here how our 
 ancestors lived." It was built by 
 Sir William Fitzwilliam, Earl of 
 Southampton (whose mother after- 
 wards married Sir A. Browne), about 
 1530, and was filled with treasures 
 of every description ; amongst tliem 
 a series of pictures said to have been 
 by Holbein, and somemost interesting 
 relics from Battle Abbey. At the 
 upper end of the " Buck Hall "' was 
 a stag carved in wood, bearing 
 shields with the arms of England 
 and her standard-bearer ; and round 
 the hall were 10 others, " large as 
 life, standing, lying, and sittuig, Avith 
 small banners of arms supported by 
 their feet." 
 
 Of aU this splendour the only 
 traces remaining are the ivy-covered 
 ruins, approached from the town 
 through wide iron gates, opening 
 
 on a straight causesvay laised above 
 the meadows, and passing over the 
 "little Eother," which flows along 
 the entire W. front. The house was 
 quatkangular. Over the archway of 
 tlie principal front are tlie anus of 
 Sir A. Browne. In the court beyond 
 was a stately fountahi, which is now at 
 Woolbeding. The " Buck Hall " was 
 immediately opposite, and half-burnt 
 portions of the stags that decorated 
 it still lie hi the quadrangle. E. of 
 the hall was the chapel, of which the 
 window traceries are tolerably pre- 
 served. Traces of the wall-paintings 
 that decorated some of the principal 
 ai^artments are still visible. 
 
 Although the house at Cowdray 
 will no longer show us " how our fore- 
 fathers lived," we may get a very toler- 
 able picture from the ' Book of Orders 
 and Rules,' established by Anthony 
 Lord Montague (the yoiuig child of 
 Tilbmy) for the dhection of his 
 household and family here, a.d. 1595. 
 This very curious MS. was saved 
 from the fire, and has been printed 
 in the Sussex Archxol. Collect ions, 
 vol. vii. 
 
 Time, which has mouldered these 
 ruins into beautj', has dealt still 
 more gentlj' with the magnificent 
 clicsnuts and limes of the " Close 
 W;dks," the scene of Queen Eliza- 
 beth's feastings on the occasion of 
 her visit to Lord Montague of the 
 "Armada" in 1591. Here it was 
 that her Majesty, armed with a cross- 
 bow, killed " three or four deer" as 
 they were driven past her sylvan 
 bower, whilst tlie Countess of Kil- 
 dare, her attendant, very judiciously 
 brought down only one. Tlie park, 
 full of heights and hollows and 
 thickly caii^eted with fern, deserves 
 all possible exploration. In it, about 
 1 m. from the ruins, is Cowdray 
 Lodge, the cottage of the Earl of 
 Egmont. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Midhurst 
 is Bunford House (R. Cobden, Esq.), 
 on the estate which was purchased 
 and presented to him by the sup-
 
 352 
 
 Route 19.— Godahnijig to Chichester, 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 porters of the Anti - Com Law 
 Leagiie. 
 
 From ]\Ii(lliiirst the scenery N. to- 
 vrards Fa rnli u n<t,im., may most easily 
 be visited. It is wild and varied; aud 
 from Henley Hill (about half way) 
 the view is very fine. The chm-cli at 
 Farnliurst is small and E. E. In an 
 oak wood, rt. of tlie road, are the 
 remains, now a mere heap, of Verdleij 
 Castle, " known only to those that 
 Imnt the marten cat," says Camden, 
 and still remote and solitary. It 
 was a hunting- tower attached to the 
 Lord.shiii of Midhurst ; but all arclii- 
 tectiu-al features were destroyed some 
 years since, when the walls were 
 used for road-making. About 2 m. 
 N.W. from Faruhurst are the ruius 
 of Shidhrede Fn'orij, in a small valley, 
 surrounded with wood, and not to be 
 got at without some difBcuIty. It 
 was founded by Sir Ealph de Arderue 
 early in the 13th cent, for five Au- 
 gustiuian canons, and was suppressed 
 by the Bp. of Chichester, " not with- 
 out an eye to his own advantage," 
 ten years before the visitation of 
 Cromwell's commissioners. The 
 only portion of interest that remains 
 is the Prior's chamber, a large room 
 approached by a stone staircase. 
 The walls are covered with nide 
 paintings of more than one period. 
 Among them is the Nativity, where 
 the Virgin and Child are surrounded 
 by different animals, wliose voices 
 are made to express articulate sounds. 
 A label proceeding from the moutli 
 of a cock m the act of crowing, bears 
 the words " Christus natus est." A 
 duck demands "Quando quando?" 
 and a raven makes answer " In hac 
 nocte, in hac nocte. ' The cow bellows 
 "Uiji'? ubi?'' and the lamb bleats 
 " Bethlem, Bethlem." Other paiut- 
 ing.s, showing the dress of Elizabetli's 
 time, and the arms and motto of 
 James I., must have been added after 
 the dissolution. 
 
 Along the course of the R other, 
 "W. fronr Midhurst, are Woolhedhuj, 
 where the stained glass in the chan- 
 
 cel was removed from the Prioiy of 
 Mottisfout in Hampshire, aud Trottoii, 
 an ancient manor of the Camois 
 family. The chiu-ch, dedicated to St. 
 George of England, was rebuilt 
 about 1400 by Thomas Lord Camois, 
 as was the bridge over the Eother, 
 close adjoining. In the chancel arc 
 two very fine Brasses ; the first, of 
 Marguerite de Camoys (d. 1310), and 
 probably the earliest brass of a lady 
 that exists in England ; the second 
 is on tlie altar tomb of the founder 
 and his wife, d. 1419, which stands 
 in the centre of the chancel. The 
 Elizabeth Lady Camoys, who is re- 
 presented here by the side of her 
 lord, is no other than the widow 
 of Hotspur, the " gentle Kate" of 
 Shakspeare, who has erred at all 
 events in her name, however tiidy 
 he may have depicted the shrewd- 
 ness of her wit. It was no doubt 
 Petworth which brought her into" 
 the neighbourhood of Lord Camoys, 
 whom she married after the death 
 of Percy. In this parisli Otway the 
 dramatist was born, Marcli 3, 1651, 
 whilst Ills father was curate here. 
 Collins thus alludes to him in his 
 ' Ode to Pity : '— 
 
 " But wherefore need I wander wide 
 To old llissus' distant side, 
 
 [leserttd stream and mute? 
 "Wild Alun too has heard thy strains, 
 And Echo, midst my native plains, 
 Been soothed by Pity's lute." 
 
 Dureford Abbey, in the parish of 
 Eogafe, 2 m., a small house of Pre- 
 monstratensian Canons, was founded 
 by Henry Hoese (Hosatus — Hussey) 
 aljout 1169. Some portions of the 
 ancient buihling have been worked 
 into the present dwelling-house. 
 Near Haben bridge, on an eminence 
 above the Arun, about .] m. from the 
 village of Rogate, are vestiges of a 
 tower within a foss : probabl}' erected 
 by the Camois, ancient lords of the 
 manor. 
 
 The Chichester road, S. of Mid- 
 hurst, has some picturesque views ; 
 aud about 2 m. begins to ascend the
 
 Sussex. 
 
 Route 19. — Godahning to Chichester. 
 
 353 
 
 line of the South Downs, here of no 
 great heiglit. There are some fine 
 points however among the sjjurs tliat 
 strike out northward from the line 
 running E. into Hampshire : and 
 the tourist may if he pleases walk or 
 ride from Corhhui, where the road 
 crosses the hills, along the westward 
 heights by Gratfham and Lavhigton 
 toward Bignor and Arundel. This 
 line will give him some of the very 
 finest scenery in the South Downs : 
 Init he should be told that he will 
 findbut indifferent accommodation at 
 the primitive village inns. The view 
 (northward) above the village of 
 Graffhaiii (al)out 2 m. from Cocking) 
 is very grand and panoramic. " The 
 dark hanging woods of Lavington 
 clothe the steep hills on one side, 
 while on the other their natural forms 
 are varied by smaller clumps of beech 
 and junii^er. Below, is the long and 
 picturesque valley of the EotTier, 
 extending from the borders of Plamp- 
 shire as far as tlie eye can reach, and 
 varied with wild heathery commons, 
 evergreen woods, brown copses, and 
 ctiltivated- fields. Immediately op- 
 posite is the elevated ridge of the 
 lower green sandstone, the S. boun- 
 dary of the Weald of W. Sussex, and 
 far in the distance the blue outline 
 of the SuiTcy Downs. (A. E. Knox, 
 Game Birds and Wild Fowl.) The 
 explosion of the powder-mills at 
 Hounslow, March 11, 1850 (50 m. in 
 a direct line), made all the pheasants 
 in the Lavington woods crow at once. 
 At Cocking the archajologist maj' 
 search for the remains of a cell, be- 
 longing first to the Abbey of Seez, 
 and afterwards to the College of 
 
 Arimdel. On the edge of Heyshott 
 Do\Mis (E.) are the traces of a forti- 
 fitd camp. 
 
 Extensive woods stretch away on 
 either side of the road l^eyond Cock- 
 ing. The church of Singleton, 2 m., is 
 Perp., and uninteresting. At West 
 Dean, 1 m., in the midst of the low 
 roimdtd hills and coppicts which 
 belong to this part of Sussex, is West 
 Dean I'arh (Rev. L. V. Harcourfi, 
 built by Lord Selsey about 1804, in 
 a Strawberry-Hill Gothic. The )iark 
 is exten.sive and well wooded. West 
 Dean church has someE.E. portions, 
 and contains a good monument 
 (about l(j](j) to three of the Lewknor 
 family, former lords of the manor. 
 Either here or at East Dean, 1 m. 1., 
 very picturesquely placed at the end 
 of a narrow chalk valley, was the 
 royal villa of Dene, at which Asser 
 for the first time saw King Alfred 
 ("usque ad regionem dexteralium 
 Saxonimi, qua3 Saxoniee Sutliscaxmn 
 appellatur, j^erveni ; iljique ilium in 
 villa regia, qufe dicitur Dene, primitus 
 vidi. ' ' — Vita A If. ) . There are now no 
 traces of this ancient hunting seat. 
 Iioman sepulchral lu'ns have been 
 found near Chilgrove in West Dean. 
 
 In Midluvant Church, 1 m., is a 
 marble effigy of " Dame Mary May,"' 
 d. 1G81. It was erected during her 
 lifetime. 
 
 Goodwood is now the great feature 
 (1.) ; and passing the ancient Broil 
 entrenchments and the barracks, 
 Chichester is entered by the old 
 North Street of Eoman Regnum. 
 
 (For Chichester and excursions in 
 its neighljourliood see Rte, IG.J 
 
 Indk
 
 355 
 
 I N D E X. 
 
 ABUEY. 
 
 A. 
 
 Abbev Wiiod, station on the Chatham rail- 
 way, 25. 
 
 Abbej'6 in Kent : Lesnos, 25 ; Faversham, 66 ; 
 Boxley, 85; Mailing, 88; St. Radigiind's, 
 151. 
 
 in Sussex : Bayham, 228 ; Battle, 254. 
 
 Abbot's Cliff tunnel, near Dover, 14;. 
 
 Academy, military, at Woolwich, 24. 
 
 Acrise Court in Kent, 142. 
 
 Adams, William, the discoverer of Japan, his 
 birthplace, 48. 
 
 Ad iJecimum, site of the, 323. 
 
 Addington, church, inscription in, its situa- 
 ation, 89 ; park, Oruidical remains, 89 ; 
 parish, " Xailbourne " in, 93. 
 
 Adishara, manor granted to Christ Church, 
 Canterbury, 221. 
 
 Adur, the, at Cuckfield, 256 ; an embouchure 
 of, 292 ; suspension bridge over, 293 ; 
 source of, }}} ; estuary, 342. 
 
 Ague, the region of, 65. 
 
 Airey, Professor, localities fixed by, for Cai' 
 sars conquest, 234. 
 
 Alard, the, chantry in St. Nicholas's church, 
 Winchelsea, 247. 
 
 " Alba Via," tho, 217. 
 
 Alban's, St., Court, portrait by Jaiisenin, 223. 
 
 Albourne Manor, an estate of the Ju.\on 
 family, 264. 
 
 Alciston Manor in Sussex, 282. 
 
 Aldington church, given to Erasmus, 133 ; 
 the nun of Kent, i J3-134. 
 
 Aldrington church, 292. 
 
 Alfold, St. Wilfred's church, 343. 
 
 Alfred, lands alienated in his reign, ;. 
 
 Alfriston, ancient hostelry at, 281, 282. 
 
 Alkbam, church, witli Early English chancel, 
 at, 142. 
 
 AUington Castle, view of, from Longscle, 
 78; history of, 83, 84; described, 85. 
 
 Alphege, St., shrine of, Canterbury, 166. 
 
 Alston, Mr., his oyster-beds at Milton, 6j ; 
 his " sea-farm" at Whitstable, annual pro- 
 duce of his Sheerness fishery, 187. 
 
 ' Amadis de Gaul,' reference to Duke Hum- 
 phrey's tower in, 10. 
 
 Amber, found on tlie coast of Kent, 211. 
 
 Amberley, ruined castle, church, picturesque 
 old village, 336. 
 
 ARMOUR. 
 
 Amberstone, the, near Hellingly Park, 285. 
 
 Anderida, supposed site of the ancient, 130; 
 true site of the ancient, 288. 
 
 Andred's A\''ood, the extreme easterly point 
 of, 250 ; various etymologies of, 255; scen- 
 ery of, 256. 
 
 Angmering, East and We.st, 297 ; park, mi- 
 gration of herons from, 298. 
 
 Anne Boleyn, her education at Ilever, u6. 
 
 Amie of Cleves, scene of her marriage, 5 ; 
 tirst meeting with Henry, 20; priory 
 granted to, 27 ; first seen by Henry, 35; 
 grant of Hever to, 116; place of her first 
 landing in England, 210; her houae in 
 I^ewes, 271. 
 
 Anne of Denmark, her "House" at Creen- 
 wich, 6. 
 
 Anne, yiieen, benefactions of, to Greenwich 
 Hosjiital, 7; memorials of, at Tunbridge 
 Wells, 227. 
 
 Anselui, Archbishop, building of, at Canter- 
 bury, 161. 
 
 Anson, model of his ship, 9. 
 
 Anticjuities of Kent, x ; of Sussex, xxii. 
 
 Antonine's Itinerary, the Durolevum of, 70; 
 the Vagniacaj of, 78 ; Keculver mentioned 
 in, 190 ; the Ad Liecnnuiu of, 323. 
 
 Ajiplidiire, sailing of Panes up the Piother 
 to, 250; routes from, 251. 
 
 Appledrani. chtuch, near Chichester, 315. 
 
 Aquila, Gilbert de, priory founded by, 28;. 
 
 Architecture, ecclesiastical, military, and do- 
 mestic : of Kent, xii ; of Sussex, xxii. 
 
 Architecture, example of Norman, 28-29 > 
 ancient British, sepulchral, 77 ; domestic, 
 of Edward IV. 's time, 96-97 ; exam])le of 
 \arioiis periods from Edward H. to James 
 I., 112; liall of the 14th century, ji8; for- 
 titiid manor of the 13th, 134; Kentish 
 tracery, 157 ; Early English transepts and 
 choir, 19; ; example of Roman, 206-207 » 
 severe, of Premonstratensian Canons, 228 ; 
 example of l>ec. and Perp., 231 ; specimen 
 of early Dec, 246 ; peculiarities of Anglo- 
 Saxon, 254; of brick, in Su.ssex, 257; of 
 tlie De Warrenes, 267; pier arches in 
 Stev'ning church, 342. 
 
 Arden, Thomas, bought Faversham Abbey, 
 66 ; nuirder of, 68-6g. 
 
 Ardingly, church with wooden porch, 255. 
 
 Armour, Bayard's suit at Woolwich, 24 ; 
 ancient manufacture of, 26; collection of, 
 at Parham, 337-338.
 
 356 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ARSENAL. 
 
 Arsenal, the royal, at Woolwich, 12, 22-2}; 
 at Chalham, 46. 
 
 Arun, the, luivigahle, nuiUet of, tgS ; canoes 
 found al Nurili Stuke un, 304; main source 
 of, 5J! ; jiniction of, willi the Itolhi-r, J35 ; 
 running through Amberley, Jj6; ruuicil 
 tower aljove, 352. 
 
 Arundel, situation of the town, 298 ; origin 
 of its name, history of the cjstlc, 299 ; 
 great hall, library, pictures, joo ; the keep, 
 J00-J02 ; parish church of St. Nicholas, ;o2- 
 iO} ; ruins of the Malsou Uieu, the dairy, 
 30 J ; the park, ;04. 
 
 Ash church, at Richborongh, the spire a 
 landmark, altar-tombs in, 208. 
 
 Ashbourne, the, in old times forming a har- 
 bour, 291. 
 
 Ashburiiham Place, its collection of MSS. an<l 
 printed books ; church, repuUitiou of its 
 iron, 3JT. 
 
 Ashdown forest, furnaces of, J27 ; scenery, 
 J28. 
 
 Ashford railway " repah-ing " station, popu- 
 lation of, church, 132; birthplace of Cade, 
 
 Ashgrove, in Kent, no. 
 Asten, the, coloured waters of, 235. 
 Augustine, his share in the foundation of 
 Rochester cathedral, 36 ; baptisms in the 
 Swale by, 58 ; place of his landing in Eng- 
 land, 7 J ; convent in Canterbury established 
 by, 160; monastery founded by, 18T-182; 
 burial-place of, 181 ; efficacious blessing of, 
 194 ; his first meeting with Ethelbert, 195 ; 
 landing of, in Engl.and, 197 ; chapel in 
 Richborough dedicated to, 208. 
 
 Augustinian canons, Lesnes Abbey founded 
 for, 25 ; priory of nuns at Dartford, 27 ; 
 priory founded by Robert de Crevecoeur 
 for canons, .gj ; "first English house of 
 Black canons, i36 ; site of a house near 
 Hastings, 240: remains of a priory founded 
 by .John Mansell, 25;; house founded by 
 Gilbert de Aquila, 285; priory at War- 
 bleton, ;;o; priory founded by Sir Wil- 
 liam Dawtrey, J35 ; priory suppressed by 
 the Bishop of Chichester, 352. 
 
 Augustine's, St., villa at Ramsgate, 197. 
 
 Aylesl'ord, sepulchral caves at, 26. 
 
 . , Sax(.)n traditions of, 75 ; church, friary, 
 
 manufactures of, 76. 
 
 B. 
 
 Badmonden, cell attached to a foreign priory 
 at, 127. 
 
 Baillie's Court, near laltle Hampton, be- 
 longing to the abbey of Seez, 298. 
 
 Baillie, Dr., his recommendation of Hastings, 
 2!9. 
 
 Balcomhe, on the Weald of Sussex, 255. 
 
 Balsdean, desecrated chapel, 264. 
 
 Balustrade of St. Paul's, furnace where it was 
 cast, 228. 
 
 BENEDICTINKS. 
 
 Bapchild, Saxon council held at, architecture, 
 history of the church, 65. 
 
 Coiu'l, 66. 
 
 Barfreston, excursion from Canterbury to, 
 187; fine churcli of, 225. 
 
 Barham Court, tradition of, 126. 
 
 church, manor belonged to Fitzurse, 
 
 220 ; Downs, historical memorials of, 221. 
 
 Bathing machines, invention of, 199. 
 
 Bathurst, Launcelot, house built by, 30. 
 
 Battle Abbey, scene of the battle, 234 ; story, 
 memorable localities, 234, 2J5 ; foundation 
 of the abbey, 236; description of, 237; 
 church, privileges of the parish, powder- 
 mills, 2?8. 
 
 Battle Hall, near Leeds Castle, 93. 
 
 Baxter, origin ascribed to the Isle of Dogs 
 
 hy, ,-• 
 Bavard, his suit of armour at Woolwich, 24. 
 Ba'yford Castle, built by Alfred, 64. 
 Bayliam Abbey, ruins described, history of, 
 
 223. 
 
 Beachborough House, near Folkestone, 139 ; 
 
 summer-house at, 141. 
 Beachy Head, height of. Parson Darby's 
 Hole, wrecks, sea-fowl, 283 ; sea-fight otf, 
 284. 
 Beale, Benjamin, unlucky invention of, 199. 
 Bear's Oak, in I'enshurst Park, rei'erred to, 
 
 by Waller, 121. 
 Beckenham, village of, 97 ; celebrities of, 
 
 church and churchyard, Place, 98. 
 Becket, Thomas a, abbey dedicated to, 25; 
 relic of, at Harbledown, 75; miraculous 
 ■well of, 114; his claim on Saltwood, 136; 
 plotting of his murder, 137; story of his 
 murder, 167, 168 ; translation of his body 
 from the crypt, 171; trial of, in Henry 
 VIII. 's reign, 172; representations of his 
 miracles, 172, 173; reception of, in Sand- 
 wich, 20! ; place of his concealment, 209; 
 church dedicated to, 316. 
 Beddingham, in Susse.N, 273. 
 Bede, name given by, to Rochester, ji ; Tha- 
 
 net, in the days of, 194. 
 Bedgebury Park, near Goudhurst, 128. 
 Beechmont Park, in Kent, no. 
 Bekesbourne, ruins of an archiepiscopal pa- 
 lace, 218; skirmish of Caesar's army, 219. 
 Belerica, the ancient, 1 34. 
 Bell Tout Lighthouse under Beachy Head, 
 
 283. 
 Bellot, Lieut., memorial of, at Greenwich, 6. 
 Belmont Castle, near Gray's Thurrock, 14. 
 Benedictines, nunnery of, founded by Ste- 
 pheiij near Iligham, 32; colony established 
 by Gundulf, 36; priory at Davington, 70; 
 nunnery founded by Gundulf, its tribute to 
 Rochester, 88 ; priory at I'olkestone. 140; 
 priory at Dover transferred to, 148 ; con- 
 vent in Canterbury, 160, 178, 179; college 
 of St. Augustine in Canterbury, its history, 
 181, 182; abbey at West Langdon, 2i; ; 
 foundation, consecration of St. Martin's 
 Abbey at Battle, 236; priory at Wilming-
 
 INDEX. 
 
 357 
 
 BENSTED. 
 
 toll, 282; nunnery at Leominster, 504; 
 Bnxgrove Priory, J17 ; priory of St. Mary 
 Magdalene, j 14 ; grant of Kdward the Con- 
 fessor to the Abbey of Fe'camp, 541 ; nun- 
 nery f(]undcd liy John de Boliun, 550. 
 
 Bensted, W. H., chalk-quarries belonging 
 to, 75. 
 
 Berens, H., retreat founded by, 27. 
 
 Bernardi, -work of, in Chichester cathedral, 
 ;o8 ; at Boxgrove, ji8. 
 
 Bersted, cliurcls-tower witli figiu'es at, 91. 
 
 Bether^den, marble- quarries, bad roads, 
 chureli, 1J2. 
 
 , arcade built of its marble, l}$. 
 
 Betshanger church, near Deal, 214. 
 
 Bexhill, church, submarine forest, 292. 
 
 Bexley Heath, mode of transit from Abbey 
 Wood to, 26. 
 
 Bexley manor, destination of its rental, 
 church, architecture of, 26. 
 
 Bicknor church, in Kent ; Place, 94. 
 
 Biddendsn, Easter Sunday observance in, 129. 
 
 Bifrons House, inscription on, 218. 
 
 Bignor, various routes to, 522 ; 'Situation of, 
 i2! ; I'oman villa and pavements, J24; 
 other relics, park, 325 ; hill, scenery of, 
 J 26. 
 
 BiUiugsburst, etymology of, church, 3^4. 
 
 Bilsington, ruined priory at, 255. 
 
 Blrchington Church, " wax-house " in the 
 churchyard, 200. 
 
 Birling Place, a residence of the Nevilles, 
 history of the manor, 90 
 
 Birling Gap, near Beachy Head, 284. 
 
 Biscuit, mode of baking, at Deptford, 4. 
 
 Bishojisbourne, Hooker's living, church re- 
 stored 15 years since, 219. 
 
 Bishopstone, interesting church at, 280. 
 
 Black Cap, the top of Mount Harry, 274. 
 
 Blackheath, villas on, historical recollections, 
 20; grammar-school, 21. 
 
 Blackwall, means of transit from London to, 
 I ; described, 11. 
 
 Blacksole Field, battle fnTight at, iii. 
 
 Blean, the, tract of forest-land in Kent, 71. 
 
 Bloomfi>Id, Hobert, favourite walk of, 25. 
 
 Blue Wall, the, traversing Romney Marsh, 
 251. 
 
 Boar Place, in Chiddingstone parish, 117. 
 
 Board Hill, in Sussex, 256. 
 
 liciarzell, house in 'ricehurst, ijo. 
 
 Bi ckingfold, anciently a forest, 124. 
 
 Bodiani Castle, excursion to, 2;4 ; date of its 
 building, history, luins, church, 244. 
 
 Bogiior, excursions from, 504; rocks, jo;. 
 
 Bobuns, the, ruins of their mansion, J51. 
 
 Bolebrook, a house of the Sackvilles, ruins of, 
 }i8. 
 
 Boley Hill, court-leet held on, 45. 
 
 Bolney, picturesque church at, 25A ; com- 
 mon, views from, productions of, 257. 
 
 Bolton, Lavinia liuchess of, buried at Green- 
 ■wich, 10. 
 
 Borden church, 6;. 
 
 Boreshill, Chiddingstone, 117. 
 
 BRASSES. 
 
 Borough, in Sussex, Roman villa at, j;;. 
 
 " Borsholder, a dumb," preserved in \Vater- 
 higbury chiircii, 125. 
 
 Borstalls, in Sussex, 27;. 
 
 Boshani, church, its claims to be Anglo- 
 Saxon investigated, 31J; fticul's and 
 Warlewast's foundation at, 514 ; repre- 
 sented in the Buyeux tapestry ; legend of 
 the bells, ih. 
 
 Bossenden Wood, death of Courtenay in, 72. 
 
 Boughtoii Aluph, large church at, 15J. 
 
 Boughlon-under- Blean, Canterbury pilgrims 
 at, 71. 
 
 Boughton Hill, view from, 71. 
 
 Boughton Malherbe, in Kent, 9; ; the church 
 of, I jr. 
 
 Boughton Jlonchelsea, remains of a hyana 
 discovered near, 95. 
 
 Boughton Place, a residence of the Wottons, 
 
 Bourne Park, in Kent, 2 J 9. 
 
 Bow Creek, junction of the Lea with the 
 Thames at, it. 
 
 Bow Hill, spur of the chalk-range overlook- 
 ing Kingly Bottom, J2i. 
 
 Boxgrove, dissolution of the priory at, J17 ; 
 chiuxh, beautiful example of E. E. archi- 
 tecture, !t8. 
 
 Boxley Abbey, history of, 85 ; " the Rood of 
 Grace," village, origin of the name, 86. 
 
 Boyle, Roger, monimient in Preston church 
 to, 70. 
 
 Brackiesham Bay, fossil shells found in, 516- 
 
 Bradbourne Park, 87 ; church, churchyard 
 with enormous yew-tree, 154. 
 
 Bradsole abliey, origin of the name, 151. 
 
 Brauibletj'e House, near East Griustead, J27. 
 
 Brand)er, manor forming part of the honour 
 of, 265 ; Saxon palace at, 341 ; fortress on 
 the site of a castellum, view from, St. Ni- 
 cholas' church, 342. 
 
 Braose family, the, hunting-lodge of, 265 ; 
 churches erected by, 29? ; building of, at 
 Horsham, 332; old residence of, 333; their 
 possession of St. Leonard's forest, ib. ; old 
 castle of, 334; a manor of, 340; brass of 
 Sir .John in Wiston church, 341; strong- 
 hold at the mouth of the Adur, 342. 
 
 Brasses: in Eriih church, 13; in Stone church, 
 14; Northfleet, 15; East ^Vick!!am, 26; 
 St. Mary Cray, 27 ; Dartford, ih. ; Horton 
 Kirkl)y, 29; Farningham, ?o ; Cliffe, 32; 
 Cowling, ; ; ; Strood, il^. ; Chatham, 47 ; St. 
 James, in the Isle of Grain, 49 ; Cobham. 
 5?, ■14; Minster, 60; Rainhani, 61 ; New- 
 ington, 63 ; Alilton, 64; Bredgar, ih.; Fa- 
 versham, 67; Sheldwich, 71; Graveney, 
 ib.; Lucldesdon, 74; Hailing, ib. ; -Ayles- 
 ford, 76; Maidstone, 80; East Mailing, 
 87; West Mailing, 88; Addington, 89; 
 Bromley, 99 ; Hiiyes, 102 ; Chelsfield, 104 ; 
 Chevening, 10;; Sevenoaks, ih. ; Seal, no; 
 Ighlham, ih.; Wrotham, in; Sundridge, 
 112; Weslerham, 11?; Kemsing, 114; 
 LuUingstone, 115 ; Hever, 116; Penshurst,
 
 358 
 
 IN^DEX. 
 
 BRASSES. 
 
 121 ; Horsmonden, 127; Cranbrook, Goud- 
 hui'st, 128; East Sutton, I'luckley, iji ; 
 Bethersden, Asbford, IJ2; Great Chart, 
 Addington, ijj; Bradbourne, 134; Salt- 
 wood, ij"; ; Folkestone, ijg; Newington, 
 Acrise, 142; Charthani, 157; Monktou, 
 196 ; St. Nicholas at Wade, ib. ; St. Law- 
 rence, 197 ; St. John's, Margate, 200 ; 
 Birchington,*. ; Ash,2o3 ; Upper Hardres, 
 219; Barham, 220; Goodnestone, 222. 
 
 Brasses found in Sussex : in Ticehurst churcli, 
 2jo; Etchingham, 2J2; Battle, 2;8; St. 
 Clement's, Hastings, 240; Northiam, 24;; 
 St. Nicliolas, Winchel.sea, 247 ; Rye, 249 ; 
 New Romney, Lydd, 252 ; NVoodclnirch, 
 253; Ardingly, 25;; Slaugham, 256;AV^est 
 Grinstead, 264 ; Cowfold, 265; St.Mlcliael 
 in Lewes, 271 ; Fletchiiig, 277; Buxted, 
 ib. ; Isfield, 278; Hurstmouceux, 288; 
 Shoreham, 29?; l?roadwater, 294; East 
 Grinstead, 326; AVarbleton, !?o; Hors- 
 ham, 352; Rusper, 334; Billingsliurst, 
 Pulboroiiglj, 355; Stupham, I'ft. ; Amber- 
 ley, 536; Wiston, 341; Whitley, 34;; 
 Woolbcding, 352. 
 
 Brasted, in Kent, 112. 
 
 Brede, the, junction of, with the Tillinghara 
 and Bother, 248. 
 
 church, French flamboyant -work in, 
 
 342 ; Place, built, the end of the 14th cen- 
 tury, 242, 24 J. 
 
 Bredgar, chantry at, 64. 
 
 Brenchley loll, a landmark, in Kent, 127. 
 
 Urenzet, St.Eanswilh's church, 251. 
 
 Brickwall Park, birthplace of an archbishop, 
 house, curiosities, relic of Queeu Elizabeth 
 in, 243. 
 
 Bridge, curious carvings in relief in the 
 church, 217. > 
 
 Brightling Down, views from, observatory on, 
 J 30. 
 
 Brighton, lodgings at, 259 ; origin and his- 
 tory, 260 ; notabilities, 261, 262 ; return 
 tour to London from, 264 ; coaches from, ib. 
 
 Brishing, stream flowing umlerground 
 from, 95. 
 
 British antiquities in Kent, x ; embankments 
 on the Thames, supposed to be, 12; s'^pul- 
 chres, 17 ; traces of a battle with Hengist, 
 26; "via sacra," 61; the cromlech Kit's 
 Coity House, the Countle^s Stones, 77; 
 sepulchres, 78 ; cromlech, circles, seijul- 
 chral chambers at Addington, 89, 90 ; 
 pottery found in Camden Park, 100 ; the 
 supposed site of Noviomagus, 102; sup- 
 posed locality of a battle, 139 ; name of 
 Thanet, 194. 
 
 in Sussex, xxii ; earthworks at Kenard- 
 
 ington, 255 ; circular camp, 258 ; oval camp 
 on the South Downs, 262; l)ruidical remains 
 on the South Downs, 263 ; canoes, 304. 
 
 Broadhurst, Lpighton's residence at, 257. 
 
 Broad.stairs, origin of the name, source of its 
 prusperity, 199. 
 
 Broadwater, fme church at, 294. 
 
 CAMDt;N. 
 
 Brockl3'n, 86. 
 
 Bromley, walk from Beclionham to, situa- 
 tion, history of the toAn, 98 ; archiepisco- 
 pal palace, ib. : palace garden, church and 
 churchyard, 99 ; college founded by Bishop 
 ^Varner, ib. ; road to Sevenoaks from, 101. 
 
 Rrimipton, its barracks, 47. 
 
 Brook, Sussex signification of, 336. 
 
 Brooke, Sir Wm., almshouse lounded by, 
 
 5-t- 
 BruoklanJ, bell-tower at, built of timber, 
 
 251. 
 
 liroome Park, in Kent, 220. 
 
 Broomham Park, in Sussex, 242. 
 
 Browne, Sir Anthony, his succession to Cow- 
 dray, 251. 
 
 Browne, Sir Anthony, grant of Battle Abbey 
 to, 236 ; tomb of, 238. 
 
 Brown, Capability, grounds laid out by. 26. 
 
 Brown's Burgh, beacon on Brightling Down, 
 330. 
 
 Broj'le, the, near Chichester, 313. 
 
 Buckhurst, old residence of the Sackvilles, 
 Park, 328.- 
 
 Buckland, on the Dour, 224. 
 
 Bucksteep, old mansion house in Warbleton, 
 330. 
 
 Burgess Hill railway station near Brighton, 
 
 257- 
 Burgh, Hubert de, scene of his meetmg with 
 
 the malcontent barons, 13 ; his defence of 
 
 Dover, 143-144 ; ])art taken by, in the 
 
 translation of Becket's body, 191. 
 Burhara, Knights Hospitallers' church, 75. 
 Burpham, ossicula of starfish found at, 304. 
 Burston, now a farm-nouse, view from, 124. 
 Burwash church contains oldest specimen of 
 
 Sussex founder's workmanship, 232. 
 Bury Hill, barrows on, view from, 326. 
 Buxted, church with shingled spire, 277 ; 
 
 Place, 278. 
 Byron, Lord, his description of the view of 
 
 Loudon, 24 ; at Hastings, 240. 
 
 c. 
 
 Cabot, Sebastian, fleet of, at Gravesend, i ,. 
 Caburn, Mount, position of, 27 ; ; camp on, 
 
 274- 
 
 Cade Street, traditionary scene of Jack (%.de s 
 murder, 329-330. 
 
 Cade, his birthplace. 133. 
 
 Ca'sar, Julius, probable landing-place of, 
 212 ; traces of entrenchments of, 214-215. 
 
 Caistor, Roman pottery made at, 62. 
 
 Cakeham, Bishop Sheiijorne's tower at, J17. 
 
 Cale Hill, a seat of the Darells, 132. 
 
 Camber castle, date of its dismantlement, 
 retiring of the sea from, 248 
 
 Camden, quoted in reference to the 'Golden 
 Hind,' 5 ; fixes the Counnenos of Ptolemy, 
 18 ; source of revenues apjiropriated by, to 
 founding an Oxford professorship, 26 ; testi- 
 mony of, to Cliatham dockyard, 4; ; charac- 
 ter given to the people of Thanet bj', 195.
 
 IN^EX. 
 
 359 
 
 CAMER. 
 
 Cimer, in the parisn of Meophani, j2. 
 
 imomile on Boliiey Common, 257. 
 
 Canals, history of the Thames and Med way, 
 16; the Militaiy, from Hythe to Apple- 
 dore, i;6. 
 
 Canary grass, its introduction into England, 
 189. 
 
 Cannon, iron, place of the first casting of, 
 278. 
 
 Canterbury, sack of, by the Danes, 10; well, 
 used by pilgrims to, 54 ; means of transit 
 to, 61 ; archbishop's vineyard, 66 ; view of 
 the cathedral, 72 ; view of, from Harble- 
 down, 7? ; palaces belonging to the see, 
 106; earliest founder of the cathedral, 156; 
 entrance to, gates of, 158 ; description, his- 
 tc/ry of, 159; the cathedral described, 159- 
 160; its history, 160-161; the present 
 cathedral, 162; nave, 162-164; choir, 164- 
 i7o;reredos, 165; organ, 166; scene of 
 Becket's murder, 167 ; St. Andrews tower, 
 169; 'I'rinity chapel, 170; translation of 
 Bfckft's body, 171 ; royal pilgrims, 171- 
 172 ; Trinity chapel windows, 172 ; monu- 
 ments and tombs, I7;-177; the corona, 
 174; Anselm's tower, 175; the crypt, 176- 
 178; exterior of the cathedral towers, 178; 
 IViors court, Chapter library, 179; Dean- 
 ery, grammar school, 180 ; the archbishop's 
 palace, its history, i8i ; history of St. 
 Augustine's college, 181-18; ; the present 
 college described, i8j; St. iVIartin's, the 
 mother church of England, 18J-185; Dane 
 John, castle, |8?; churches and religious 
 houses, 186; museum, guildliall, t86, 187. 
 
 Canterbury, archbishops ol, their hereditary 
 stewards, I2j; casile restored to, by King 
 John, I {7 ; history of their palace at 
 Charing, 155; palace in Canterbury, 181; 
 palace of Ford, 189; first Saxon, 191; 
 manor belonc,ing to, 216 ; Bekesbourne 
 palace, 218; "peculiar," and favourite re- 
 sidence of, 250; chain of " peculiars " of, 
 27;; Tarring a " peculiar," 296. 
 
 Cantium of Ptolemy, the, 202. 
 
 Canvey Island, the Counnenos of Ptolemy, 18. 
 
 Carmelites, first house of, established hi Eng- 
 land, first general chapter of ihe order, 76 ; 
 friary claiming to be their first establish- 
 ment, i;o; monastery of, fuunded by l>ord 
 Clinton, 204; supposed cliapel of, in Rye, 
 
 249- 
 
 Carp, introduction of, into England, 258. 
 
 Carstone, of the Weald, ;4;. 
 
 Carter, Elizabeth, birthplace of, 210 ; at Tun- 
 bridge Wells, 227. 
 
 Carthusians, Greenwich transferred from the 
 Ghent Abbe_v to Eiiglisli, ;. 
 
 Castelluni, Cantuariorum, name given to Ro- 
 chester, 51. 
 
 Castle Goring in Clapham woods, 297. 
 
 Castle Hill, C»sar's camp on, 141. 
 
 Castle Rough, on Kemsley Down, 64. 
 
 " Castle Toll " in Penenden, i ;o. 
 
 Castrum, Roman, near Lynme, 1J7. 
 
 CUELSTOX. 
 
 Cathedfals in Kent: Rochester, j6 ; Canter- 
 bury, 180. 
 
 in Sussex : Chichester, 30$. 
 
 Catherine of Arragon, her name associated 
 with Greenwich, 5. 
 
 Cattle, mode of slaughtering for victualling 
 offices, 4. 
 
 Caxton, ^Villiam, birthplace of, 129. 
 
 Cedars of Goodwood, }2o. 
 
 Chalk pits, at Greenhithe, 14 ; at Northfleet, 
 15 ;excava!ionsjn,at Crayford, 26 ;at Dart- 
 iord, 28 ; caverns at Favershiuu, 69, 70 ; 
 quarry at Burhani, 75 ; pits, ju-obably 
 tombs, near Kit's Coity House, 77, 78; pit 
 at Camden Place, excavated, skeletons 
 found, 100; layers of starfish bones found 
 in, 504. 
 
 Chalk church, j2 ; visit to, 49 ; curious porch 
 of, 55. 
 
 Challock church, in Kent. 154. 
 
 Chalybeate spriim at Folkestime, 141. 
 
 Chanctonbury Ring, seen Irom the Downs, 
 J2J ; extent of, jj5 ; a landmark on the 
 South Downs, 240; entrenchment, ib. 
 
 Charing, ruins of the archbishop's palace, 
 church, 15";. 
 
 Charles I., bis reception at Cubham, 49; fort 
 built by, 57; at Dover, 144; (hurch dedi- 
 cated to, 229 ; relics of, at Ashbunihani, 
 J!t. 
 
 Charles II., his additions to GreenAvich, 6; 
 his march from Dover after the Restora- 
 tion, 21; received at Rochester, 35; his 
 grant of Ellhani, 97; house near 'I'un- 
 bridge fref]Uented by his courtiers, 123; 
 his reception at Dover, 144; bust at 
 Chartham, i;8; landing-place in 1GS3, 
 201 ; Rye visited by, 248 ; night spent by, 
 at Brighton, 260; his embarkation from 
 Shoreham, 29?. 
 
 "Charleses, the seven," near Eastbourne, 
 284. 
 
 Charlton, the hills of, 11 ; its fair, manor- 
 house of, 21. 
 
 Charlton, near Dover, 224. 
 
 Charinan 1 Iran, near Worthing, 294. 
 
 Chart, "the diimbborshokUr " of, 125; the 
 vineyard of, 151. 
 
 Chart Ldge, in Kent, 110. 
 
 Chart's Edge, quarries at, iij. 
 
 Charters, preserved in Rochester, 40; of 94.5, 
 granting West jMalling, 89 ; nunnery men- 
 tioii'd in Wihtred's, 142; in the Chapter 
 library in 'L'anierbury, 179; granting Re- 
 culver, T90; Watling Street mentioned Ml 
 a, 217 ; virtual confirmation of the Great, 
 276. 
 
 Charth.ani, beautiful church of, nave and 
 transept described, 157; village, fossil 
 bones discovered at, 1 ;8. 
 
 Chatham, derivation of the name, dockyard, 
 45; De Rnyter's attack on, 46; barracks, 
 church. Lines, 47; reviews at, 48; hiil, 
 view from, 61. » 
 
 Chelslon, near Boughton Malherbe, iji.
 
 360 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 CHENEY. 
 
 Cheney family, tbeir possession of Minster, 
 
 59- 
 
 , Sir Thomas, mansion Imilt by, 60 ; grant 
 
 of Faversliani Ablioy to, 66. 
 Cheriton, sea view from, 141. 
 Cheny, cultivation of the, in Kent, xiii. 
 Cherry Garden Valley, near Folkestone, 141 ; 
 
 Cherry Garden farm, 22. 
 Cherry-frees of Bolney, 257. 
 Chesterfield, Lord, his villa on Blackheath, 
 
 20. 
 Chesworth, once a residence of the Braoses, 
 
 iU. I 
 
 Chevening, two manors of, history of the 
 Earl of Stanhope's, the house described, 
 portraits, 104; church, monuments of the 
 Lennard and Stanhope families, 105. 
 Cheynel, Dr., grave of, 26?. 
 Cheyney Rock, oyster fisheries, 60. 
 Chichester, Roman origin, situation of, J05 ; 
 historical notice, 505, jo6 ; the cathedral, 
 Jo6-;ii ;1 the campanile, market cross, 
 St. Marj-'s hospital, jii ; church of St. 
 Olave, guildhall, Canongate, museum, 312; 
 houses attriViuted to Wren, city walls, jij ; 
 excursions from, J17. 
 Chiddingfold, the landscape at, old glass- 
 works, J4J. 
 Chiddingly, church with spire. Place, a'jg. 
 Chiddingstone, old name of, origin of the 
 
 present, church with monuments, 117. 
 Cliidham, near Chichester, ;i5. 
 Chilgrove, sepulchral ruins found near, ;;5. 
 Chilham, scenery of, i;j ; battle supposed to 
 have been fought at, 155; history of the 
 castle, T56; the church and park, 156, 157. 
 Chillenden, prior named from, small church, 
 
 late Norman, 222. 
 Chillhigworth, grave of, ?ii. 
 Chislehurst, walk from Bromley to, 98. 
 Chilstone Park, its parish, 95. 
 Chistlet, church at, Karly English, 192. 
 Christ Chiu'ch, Canterlmry, Davent church 
 given to, 940, 29 ; grant of .Elfege to, 50 ; 
 one of its earliest possessions, J2; Preston 
 church, once belonging to, 70 ; Westwell 
 manor, belonging to, 15;; Godmersham, 
 157; foundation of, 160; gift of Reculver 
 to, 190; an ancient manor of, 192; grant 
 of Edgifa to, ig6 ; church built by, ib.; 
 gift of Canute, to, 202; Easlry church be- 
 longing to, 209; grant of Eadbald to, 221. 
 Church-field, traces of a Roman villa at, 75. 
 Churchill, burial-place of, 147. 
 Cinque Ports, causes of their destruction, 57 ; 
 Tenterden united to, i!o; Hythe, ij;; 
 place where courts were earliest, held, ijS ; 
 Folkestone a limb of, ijg; Dover, 149; 
 chief pilot station of, 150 ; historj' of, 151, 
 152; Fordwich a member of, 191; the 
 most ancient, 202 ; residence of the war- 
 dens, 211 ; Littlebnurne a member of, 
 219 ; Hastings, 259 ; Winchelsea, 24, ; fine 
 tomb of an admiral, 247 ; the most central, 
 251 ; place of meeting iif the geuerttl 
 
 COMBE. 
 
 courts, 252; the earliest, a member of 
 Ronmey, 252 ; Seaford a member, 280 ; 
 Pevensey, 292. 
 Cissbury, encampment, Roman remains at, 
 
 295 ; view fronj, 296. 
 Cistercians, colony, brought from Clairvaux 
 by William of Ypres, 85, 86; grant of 
 Edward III. to the abbey of St. Mary Graces, 
 90 ; remains of an abbey at Robertsbridge, 
 2JJ ; sites preferred by, ib. 
 Clapham Connnon, in Sussex, woods, church, 
 
 297. 
 Clapper-napper's Hole, ;i. 
 Clare Hall, 88. 
 Clayton Priory, near Brighton, 257 ; church 
 
 near Brighton, 259. 
 Cliff End, in Sussex, scenery of, 242. 
 Cliffe, church councils anciently held at, 
 
 church of, described, ;2, ;j. 
 Climping, interesting church at, 304. 
 Clinkers, stone used in ro;;d-making, 34;. 
 Clinton, I^ord, monastery founded by, 204. 
 Cloveshoo, places supposed to be, ;2. 
 Cluniacs, established in Faversham Abbey, 
 66 ; priory of, louiidcd by Robert de Ver, 
 Ij8; priory founded by William de War- 
 rene, 268 ; history of tlie first established 
 in England, 268, 269. 
 Cobhain Hall, history of, 49 ; description of, 
 50 ; picture gallery, 50-53 ; park, church, 
 colleges, 5?, 54. 
 
 , Sir John, architectural works of, 53. 
 
 Cobhams, the castle of the, 33. 
 
 Cocking, scenery of the South Downs, cell 
 
 belonging to Seez Abbey, 25;. 
 Cockleshell Bank, in Svvanscombe Wood, 31. 
 Cogidubims, the city of, 305. 
 Coins : of Antoninus Pius, found at Halstow, 
 62; British, near Kit's Coity House, 77; 
 British silver, found in digging foundations, 
 78 ; silver, Roman, found at Lymne, 137 ; 
 silver, of Henry II., in Dover, 148 ; Roman, 
 in 'I'hanet, 194 ; gold, of Justin, in Osengall 
 hill, 198; of Maximus, and of Carausiu.s, 
 found at Richborough, 206 ; great number 
 of, in Richborough, 208; Roman, found at 
 Sedlescomb, 244 ; Roman, from a British 
 camp, 262; Roman, found in Lewes, Saxon 
 mints, 267 ; Anglo-Saxon sceattas, at Mil- 
 ton street, 282; of the Constantines at 
 Pevensey, 290 ; Reman, found at Cissbury, 
 29;; Roman, at Chichester, 305; Roman, 
 near I'ulboroiigh, j}^ ; Roman atChancton- 
 bnry, 340. 
 Colbrand's Farm, oak-trees on, 279. 
 Coldred, church standing within an entrench- 
 ment, 22; ; bell-turrets of, 224. 
 Coldium Farm, cromlech near, 89. 
 Colfe, Abraham, grammar school founded by, 
 
 21. 
 Collier's Hill, a pond on the top, 134. 
 ColliMgwiiod, in Snsse.N, 2;;. 
 Cnllins, birthplace of, 307. 
 Combe Lodge, an old manor-house in Kent,
 
 INDEX. 
 
 361 
 
 COOK. 
 
 Cuok's Bridge, railway station between Hay- 
 ward's Heath and Lewes, 266. 
 
 CiK'lhurst, an Elizabethan house, }}} ; ham- 
 mer ponds near, JJ4. 
 
 Cuonibe, etymology of, 264. 
 
 Coonibe House, in Sussex, 257. 
 
 Coombe Place, near Lewes, 276. 
 
 Cooper, Sidney, residence of 72. 
 
 Copperas stones found in Sheppey, 58. 
 
 Copt Point, near Folkestone, geological 
 structure, 141. 
 
 Copwood, in Sussex, 278. 
 
 Cosenton, mineral springs at, 76. 
 
 " Coterels " on Sheppey, 58. 
 
 Cottington, near Deal, 214. 
 
 Counnenos of Ptolemj', at Canvey, 18. 
 
 Court of Street, built on a Roman road, IJ4. 
 
 Courtenay, Sir William, fanaticism of, 72. 
 
 Cowdray, owners of, fire at, ruins, J51. 
 
 Cowfold church, near West Grinstead, 265. 
 
 Cowling, castle, its history, the church, }}. 
 
 Coxheath, camp on, 95. 
 
 Cranbrook, chiet village of the Wetild, its 
 colony of Flemings, manufactures, 127 ; 
 large church. Perpendicular, curious cus- 
 tom, 128. 
 
 Cranmer, manors resigned to the crown by, 
 106, III, 114; castle given to the crown 
 in exchange, 1J7 ; palace resigned by, 15; ; 
 place where he reviewed the " Articles 
 of Keligion," 189; hiitials of, on the wall 
 of a gatehouse, 218; papers hidden by, ib. ; 
 Mayfield given in exchange, 2}o. 
 
 C'ralle, old mansion-house, })o. 
 
 Crawley, in Sussex, JJ2. 
 
 Ciay, the, joins the Harent, 14; mills on, its 
 source, churches on, 26. 
 
 Crayford, the village of, 14 ; village and 
 church, 26. 
 
 Crevecoeur, Robert de, jiriory founded by, for 
 Augustinian canons, 9J. 
 
 Criol family, the, mansion of, 214; manor 
 once belonging to, 215. 
 
 Crispe, M., introduced madder-growing into 
 Kent, 69. 
 
 Crispin, St., grave of, in Sussex, 252. 
 
 Crockham Hill, view from, over three 
 counties, 113. 
 
 Crog Dick, in Sheppej', 60. 
 
 Cromlechs, the largest in the east of Eng- 
 land, 77 ; found near Addington, 89. 
 
 Cromwell, Oliver, liis grant to Bradshaw, 
 124; his possession of St. Pancras Priory 
 in Lewes, 269. 
 
 Cross-in-hand, view from, over Kent and 
 Sussex, 529. 
 
 Crouched Friars, first establishment of, in 
 England, 128. 
 
 Cmwborough, highest point of the South 
 Downs, beacon station, J29. 
 
 Crowhurst, in Sussex, church with old stained 
 glass, yew-tree, manor-house of the Pel- 
 hams, 241, 242. 
 
 Crow Stone, marking the Lord Mayor's juris- 
 diction on the Thames, 1 8. 
 
 DENNE. 
 
 Cuckfield, monuments by Flaxman and 
 Westmacott in the church, 256. 
 
 Place, the original of Alnsworth's Rook- 
 wood, ib. 
 
 Cuckmere, the, ruins of a priory on, 285. 
 
 Cuckold s Point, tradition regarding, j. 
 
 Culpepers, the, transfer of Li'cds Castle to, 
 92; residence of, in Hollingbounie, 9J ; 
 date of their possession of Sore, in; seat 
 of, near Tunbridge, 228 ; residences in 
 Robertsbriilge, 254; of Wakelinrst, 255., 
 
 " Cunobcline's Gold Mines" at Little Thiir- 
 rock, 14. 
 
 Cuxton, range of chalk hills from, 74. 
 
 Dale Park, on the edge of the South Downs, 
 J 26. 
 
 Dallington, view from the church tower, 
 J 50. 
 
 Dalton, Mr., provides tickets for the Erith 
 picture gallery, 13. 
 
 "Danes' Ptoles," at Little Tliurrock, 14; at 
 Tilbury, their probable origin, 17. 
 
 "Danes' Banks," on Chartham ])ovvns, 158. 
 
 Danes, relics of, in Ivent, at Little Thur- 
 rock, 14; near East Tilbvny, 17; tradi- 
 tionai-y camp of, jo; graves in Sheppey, 
 58; fortress on Kemsley Down, 64; tradi- 
 tionary cemeteries of, i ,'5 ; sack of Canter- 
 bury by, 161 ; ancient passage of ships by 
 the Wantsome, 194; date of their settle- 
 ment at Appledore, 250 ; battle fought bj', 
 in Kingly Bottom, ,321. 
 
 Danny Park, on Hufttpierpoint manor, 259. 
 
 I)anson Hill, 26. 
 
 Darell, Sir John, towers built by, IJ2. 
 
 Dareut, the, joins the Thames, 14 ; origin of 
 the name, 27 ; mills on, 28 ; stronghold 
 overhanging, jo ; at Ciievening, 105 ; source 
 of, length of its course, iij. 
 
 Dartford, situation of, priory, chantry, church, 
 27 ; mills, historical recollections, 28 ; archi- 
 tecture of the church, history of, 28, 29. 
 
 Creek, salmon fishery of, 14. 
 
 Heath, view from, 28. 
 
 Darrells, house of the, built by Inigo Jones, 
 229. 
 
 Daundelyon, old manor-bouse, built of flint 
 and brick, 200. 
 
 Davington, priory and church, 70. 
 
 I )awtrey. Sir William, priory founded by, jjj. 
 
 Deal, for the most part modern, 209 ; castle 
 and naval yard, 210 ; the country landward 
 of, described, 21 j. 
 
 Dean, etymology of, 264. 
 
 De Foe, mention of the Thames in his His- 
 tory of the Plague, _} ; chapel where he 
 preached, 186. 
 
 Dene, meeting of Alfred and Asser at, JSi- 
 
 Denna Hill, traces of entrenchments on, 222. 
 
 Denne Park, landmarks in, btech avenue, 
 Hi- .
 
 ]62 
 
 INDEX'. 
 
 DENS. 
 
 Pens, Saxon courts of, 1 29. 
 
 Deptforii, transit from London to, i ; origin 
 
 of the name. 4 ; liistory of, 4, 5. 
 De Ruyter, bis attack on ships in the 
 
 Thames, 46. 
 Derwentwater, appropriation of the forfeited 
 
 lands of the Earls of, 7. 
 Detling church, fine leclern in, 86. 
 Devil's l)yke near Brighton, legend of, 262. 
 Dibdin, song of, qtioted, 18. 
 Dickens', Charles, rtcoUections of Rochester, 
 
 Diciil, the monastery of, 314. 
 Dimchnrch Wall, protecting Romney Marsh, 
 251 ; Roman pottery discovered at, relics 
 of many ages, 25J. 
 Ditchling' Beacon, tine views from, old en- 
 trenchment, church, 258. 
 Ditton, church. 87. 
 Dixler, old timbered house, 24?. 
 Docks, on the Thames, ;; at Blackwall, 11 ; 
 at Nurthfleet, 15; Woolwich, 22; Chat- 
 ham, 45 ; Sheerness, i;8. 
 Dockyard, Woolwich, date of, described, II, 
 12; late additions to, 22; Chaiham, 45; 
 Sheerness, 59 ; timber from the Wealds of 
 Kent and Sussex fur the Chaiham, 79. 
 Pod, Ralph, his driftway under the Thames, 
 
 16. 
 Poddington church, 66. 
 Pogs, the Isle of, various derivations of the 
 
 name, 5. 
 Dominicans, first h(juse possessed by, in Eng- 
 land, 186. 
 Pour, the source of, 224. 
 Dover, situation of, origin of the name, 14? ; 
 history of, 143, 144 ; cjfstle, plioros, church, 
 Constable's Tower, 145 ; Colton Tower, 
 chapel, Arthur's Hall, 146; excavations in 
 the cliff, churches in the town, 147 ; St. 
 Martin's Priory, Maison Pieu, 148 ; Old 
 Court Hall, heights, cliffs, 149; h.arliours, 
 149, 150; isthmus between England and 
 France, i;o; excursions from, 151; walk 
 to, from Peal, 214. 
 Downs, the, harbour of refuge, origin of the 
 
 name, 212. 
 Drake, Sir Francis, history of his ship, 5 ; 
 an astrolabe of, 9 ; the Chatliam Chest 
 planned by, 47. 
 Draper's Ho'spit.al near .Margate, 201. 
 Dreadnought, the, its exploits, its present 
 
 duty, ;. 
 Pruidical remains, on the .South Downs, 263. 
 Dubra>, the Rom.an, 143. 
 Dunford House, presented to R. Cohden, ;;i. 
 Dungeness, point, lighthou?e, rapid arcumu- 
 
 lation of shingle, 252. 
 Punsfold, in the Weald, 343. 
 Ptmkirk, in the Blean, 72. 
 Punstan. St., shrine of, 166; charter in his 
 handwriting, 190; scene of his famous con- 
 test, 230. 
 Puppa, Brian, birthplace of, 20. 
 Pureford Abbey, now a dwelling-house, 352. 
 
 EASTBOURNE. 
 
 Purer, Albert, impressions of his etchings at 
 
 Bignor, 325. 
 Purolevum, of Antonine's Itinerary, village 
 
 on the site of 70. 
 Purovermim, the Roman, derivation of. 1 59. 
 Ptirrington chapel, ruins of, near Salvinglon, 
 
 297. 
 
 E. 
 
 Eanswith, St., miraculous spring, story of, 
 140. 
 
 Eardley, Sir Culling, his collection of pic- 
 tures, 13. 
 
 Eartham, Hayley's house at, 322. 
 
 Earthworks "in Kent : Panish on Kemsley 
 Pown, 64 ; Roman, or Saxon, on the east 
 side of Thnrnham Castle, 91 ; important 
 fortification, site of a Brito-Ronian town, 
 102 ; entrenchment on Ightham Common, 
 no; traces of, near Losenham, ijo; on 
 conical hills near Folkestone, 141 ; names 
 of, i;6; entrenchments near Peal, 213; 
 traces of, n'-.arWalmer, 214, 215 ; entrench- 
 ments at Petham, 220; entrenchment on 
 Barh.am Downs, 221 ; entrenchments on 
 lienne Hill, 222 ; oval entrenchment of 
 Coldred, 223, 224. 
 
 Earthworks in Sussex : circuLar entrenchment 
 on Saxonbury Hill, 229; embankment on 
 Hastings east cliff, 239, 240; British, near 
 Kenardington, 253; square entrenchment, 
 near Ditchling Beacon, 258; camp on AVal- 
 st.aiibury Hill, 259; oval camp on the South 
 Powns, 262 ; camps on the .South fiowns, 
 26; ; entrenchment on Mount Caburn, 273 ; 
 camp, 274 ; encampment at Cissbury, 295 ; 
 on Highdowu Hill, 297; the Broyle, 313 ; 
 the Trundle, 321 ; Roman entrenchment, 
 33; ; camp at Chanctonbury Ring, 340. 
 
 Easeborne, church and ruins of a Benedictine 
 nunnery, 550. 
 
 East Clifif near Ramsgate, cuttings in chalk 
 at. 199. 
 
 East Dean, site of a royal villa, 353. 
 
 East Farleigh, picturesque bridge at, hops, 
 126. 
 
 East Crinstead, branch railway from Throe 
 Bridges to, 254 ; church, Sackville College, 
 ?26, 327. 
 
 East Hoathly church, Pelhani memorial in, 
 
 279- 
 East Mailing church. 87. 
 E.ast Ma^calls, an old house of the Newtons, 
 
 ' 257. 
 East Peckh.am, in Ivenl, 125. 
 East Sutton Place, its fate in the civil wars, 
 
 131. 
 
 East Sutton church, brass of Sir Edward 
 
 Filnier in, 151. 
 East Wickham. church, contains br.asses, 26. 
 Eastbourne, Pavies Gilbert's residence. 
 
 church, 282 ; old houses in, the Sea-houses, 
 
 28J.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 363 
 
 EASTCHURCH. 
 
 Eastchurch in Sheppey, grant of, to Flemish 
 
 Cistercians, 60. 
 
 Eastry, a cliurch where Becket was con- 
 cealed, 209. 
 
 Kastwell church, burlal-pUice of the last 
 Plantagenet, 15J; l>ark, views fnini, 154. 
 
 Elibe's fleet, Augustine's landing at, 195, 198. 
 
 Ecclesbounie, valley optiiing l(i the sea, 241. 
 
 Edenbridge, village and cliurdi, 115. 
 
 Edmund Ironside, his battle with Knut, 48. 
 
 Edmund's Way, St., a name of Watling 
 Street, 27. 
 
 Edward I., imprisonment of, at Dover, 144 ; 
 his siege of Old Winchelsea, founding of 
 New, 245 ; narrow escape of, 248. 
 
 Edward III., priory founded hy, 27 ; castle 
 built by, in Sheppey, 6o; gift of Juliana 
 de Leyborne to, 90; fiitertainment eiven 
 by, at Elthani, 97; Flemings introduced 
 into England by, 127 ; priory made "indi- 
 gena" by, ijS; usual port of, 20;. 
 
 Edward the Black Prime, monument of, in 
 Canterbury cathedral, I7_}. 
 
 Edward IV., building of, at Greenwich, 5 ; 
 domestic architecture of his time, 95; 
 window presented by, 168; surrender of 
 Sandwich to, 204 ; Komney Marsh incor- 
 porated by, 251. 
 
 Edward VI., date, place of his death, 5. 
 
 Egerton church, tower of, a boundary of the 
 Weald, 152. 
 
 Elham, church of Perpendicular, 142. 
 
 Elizabeth, birthplace of, 5 ; at Greenwich, 6; 
 sbip launched liy, 11 ; names Purfleet, 13; 
 Gravesend incorporated by, i;; review of 
 troops at Tilbury, 17; monument to her 
 jeweller, 27; in Kocliester, 55; entertain- 
 ment at Satis, 4;; at Cobluim, 49; at 
 Wrstenhanger, ij5; her pocket-pLstol, 146; 
 crypt in Canterbury given up to Flemings 
 by, 177; her reception in Sandwich, 203; 
 progress of, in the Weald of Ki-nt, 229; 
 relic of, 24; ; dining imder an oak, 244 ; 
 Eye visited by, 248 ; at Parham, 337 ; deer- 
 shooting of, ;5i. 
 
 Ellman, Mr., improvements of, in the South 
 . Down breed of sheep, 274. 
 
 Elmley, snuthemniost parish of Sheppey, 60. 
 
 Eltham, situation of, 25; anciently a ix.yal 
 residence, its banqueting-hall, 96; histori- 
 cal personagis cimnected with, subterra- 
 nean passages, 97 ; church and church- 
 yard, 97 
 
 Eltruda, gift of, to Ghent, 5. 
 
 Erasmus, at Harbl(do«n, 7;; an Engli.-h 
 benefice of, 133 ; his recollections of Dover, 
 
 I4J- 
 
 Eridge, park and woods, rocks, 229. 
 
 Erith, means of transit from London to, i ; 
 the " Henrye Grace de Dieu " launched 
 from, II ; described, 12, 13. 
 
 Ernulf, Prior, his work in (Canterbury cathe- 
 dral compared with that of William of 
 ■Sens, 169. 
 
 Etchingham, brass of, copied in Ticehurst, 
 
 FITZAL.\NS. 
 
 230 ; church, with moated churchyard, 232 ; 
 country south of, 23 j. 
 
 Etlielbert, shrine of, 182; his baptism, 184; 
 his retreat at Reculver, 190 ; first inter- 
 view with Augustine, 195. 
 
 Eustace, Abbot of Flai, preaching of, mira- 
 culous well, 153. 
 
 Evelyn, John, residence of, 4 ; foundation- 
 stone laid by, 6 ; the Dutch in the Thames, 
 46 ; school of, 272. 
 
 Ewell, spring at, 9;. 
 
 Ewell or Temple Ewell, Templars' manor, 
 historical memorials of 224. 
 
 Exports, from Kent: flints to Staffordshire 
 and China, 15; in old times chalk, 28; 
 corn anciently from Thanet, 194. 
 
 Eyiisford, paper-mills, church, castle, his- 
 tory of, JO. 
 
 Faber, AViUiam, the fijunder of Battle Abbey, 
 236. 
 
 Fairlight Place, picturesque dell, view from 
 the Down, 24T. 
 
 Falconer, Matthias, factory at Minster esta- 
 blisl]ed by, 58. 
 
 Farleigh, hiip-gardens of, 126. 
 
 Faridnirst, ruins near, church, 352. 
 
 Farningham, coach from ])artford to, 28; 
 situation of, its church, 30; coach from, to 
 Dartford, 113, IT4. 
 
 Fausset, Bryan, liis researches, 211. 
 
 Faversham, history of its abbey, 66 ; church 
 described, 67 ; legends of its patron saints, 
 63 ; historical personagesconnected with,69. 
 
 Felpham, Hayley's villa at, ;oi. 
 
 Feiichurch Street station, railway to Black- 
 wall from. I. 
 
 Fenwick, Sir John, house where he was 
 taken, 251. 
 
 Ferns, British, habitat of the ciueen of, 229. 
 
 Fiddler's Keadi, origin of the name, 14. 
 
 Field Place. .Shelley's residence at, 334. 
 
 Figs, introduced into England, 296. 
 
 Finch, JIargaret, the gipsy queen, 98. 
 
 Finchcocks. a seat of the Bathursts, 128. 
 
 Findon church and Place, 29C. 
 
 Firle Beacon, near Lewes, 273 ; view from, 
 2-74 ; Place, 281. 
 
 Fisheries, in Kent : salmon, in Dartford Creek, 
 14 ; oyster and shrimp, at Leigli, 1 8 ; repu- 
 tation of Cray trout, 26; oj'ster, at the 
 mouth of the Medway, 44; oyster, of the 
 Cheyney Rock, 60; oyster, of Milton, 64; 
 guild of oyster fishers at Faversham, 69 ; 
 oyster, of Whitstable, antiquity of, 187, 
 188; trout, at Fordwich, 191 ; the Roman 
 oysiers. 205; lobster, in St. Margaret's 
 Bay, 216. 
 
 , in Susse.x : indications of old Flemish, 
 
 263 ; mullet, in the Arun, 298 ; Amber- 
 ley trout, 336. 
 
 Fitzalans, the, of Arimdel, 298, 299; tombs 
 of, 302.
 
 564 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 FITZtJRSE. 
 
 Fitzurse, ReginaW, manor in Kent belonging 
 
 to, 126; Barham manor, 220. 
 Flaxman, monument by, in Lewisliam cburcli, 
 19; in Cuckfield church, -256; sarcophagus 
 by, 265 ; monuments by, in Chichester, 
 ^07 ; in ICartham church, 32J ; in Witliyam 
 church, 328. 
 Fleminfis, (manufactures of, in Kent, 127; 
 established in Canterbury cathedral, 177 ; 
 canary grass introduced into Kent by, 189; 
 settled in Sandwich, 20; ; at Brighton, 260 ; 
 colony of fishers in Sussex, 26?. 
 Fletcher, Ji.hn, birthplace of, 249. 
 Flelching church, the buriul-place of Gibbon, 
 
 277. 
 Flints, exportation of, from Northfleet, 15. 
 Folkestone, picturesque situation, origin of 
 the name, history of, the church, 139; his- 
 tory of the church and castle, piers, views 
 from, 140 ; geological structure, walks 
 from, 141 ; excursions from, 142. 
 Foote, place of his death. 147. 
 Foot's Cray church, effigies in, origin of the 
 
 name, 27. 
 Ford, an archiepiscopal palace, historical 
 
 recollections, 189. 
 Ford valley viaduct, 159; station, churches 
 
 in tlie neighbourh<iod of, 304. 
 Fordwich. its ancient fisheries, character- 
 istics of its trout, 191. 
 Forest ridge in Sussex, scenery of, 326. 
 Forest Row, near Ashdown I<'orest. 327. 
 Forests : the Blean, 71 ; Worih, 254 ; Tilgate, 
 255 ; submarine, near Bexhill, 292 ; Stan- 
 stead, 522; Ashdown, 327; St. Leonard's, j;}. 
 Forsham, foundation of a ruined building at, 
 
 130. 
 Fort Clarence, military asylum at, 74. 
 Fort Pitt, at Chatham, 46. 
 Fossils, chalk, found at Northfleet, 15 ; found 
 near Charlton, 22 ; in the Isle of Shcppey, 
 57, ;8; remains found near Burham, 75 ; 
 iguanodon, plants found near Maidstone, 
 83; oysters, at Sundridge, 99; saurian, in 
 the Hythe quarries, 136; ammonites, at 
 Copt Point, 141 ; bones, in Chartham, 158; 
 fragments of iguanodon, in Hastings sand, 
 242 ; leaves, ferns, in Worth sandstone, 
 25; ; of Tilgate Forest, 255 ; in the cal- 
 careous strata of the' South Down, 263; 
 near Hamsey, 277 ; starfish, 304 ; '"^'''i' 
 Boguor, 505; of Bracklesham, J 16; fuci, 
 near Bignor, 325. 
 Foulness island, breadth of tideway between 
 
 Whitstable and, 19. 
 Fox, Bishop, baptized Henry A^IIl., <;. 
 Franciscans, date of their establishnient in 
 Canterbury, 186; house of, in Winchelsca, 
 247. 
 Franklin. Sir .Tohn, relics of his expedition, 
 8 ; embarkation of his last expedition, 14. 
 Franks, a house of Elizabeth's time, 30. 
 Fraut church, view from, 229. 
 Fredville Park, history of, the " Frcdville 
 Oak," 222. 
 
 GLASS. 
 
 French Protestants, descendants of, in P.ye, 
 
 248. 
 Frewens, the, of Brickwall Park, passages in 
 
 their history, 24;. 
 Friars' church, Elizabeth baptized iu, 5. 
 Frigates, the invention of, 4. 
 " Frinsbury Clubs," origin of the byeword, J4. 
 Frinsted church, in Kent, 94. 
 Friston Place, in Sussex, 281. 
 Frittenden church, lately restored. 127. 
 FroViisher, JNIartin, fleet of, at Gravesend, 15. 
 Fuller, quoted, 48 ; description of Fordwich 
 
 trout by, 191. 
 
 G. 
 
 Gad's Hill, robberies on, obelisk, 55 ; Dickens' 
 
 house, 56. 
 Gardens, market, the first in England, 203. 
 Gavelkind, custom of, in Kent, vii. 
 Gay, the original of his Polly Peachum, 10. 
 Geiiibelli, the engineer of fortifications at 
 
 Tilhury, 17. 
 Geology of Ivent, xvii ; Sheppey, 57 ; the 
 " Kentish rag," 95 ; conglomerate of Sund- 
 ridge Park, 99 ; gravel-beds near Fam- 
 borough, 103 ; rise of the gault and sand- 
 stone hills, 124; greensand, underliers of 
 the chalk, 130; section of the gault at 
 Copt Point, 141. 
 
 of Sussex, xxviii ; interval between 
 
 sandstone and chalk, extent of Hastings 
 sand, 242; Worth sandstone, 2;;; section 
 of Wealden s.-xnd, 257 ; calcareous strata 
 vpith fossils, 26j ; Bognor rocks, 304, 305 ; 
 break in the clay at Bracklesham, 316, 317 ; 
 character of the country on the Hastings 
 sand, 329; cross fractures in chalk, 342. 
 George I., resting-place of, on his way to 
 
 Hanover, 63. 
 George II., statue of, at Greenwich, 7 ; storm- 
 stayed in Rye, 248. 
 George IV.. gift of, to Greenwich Hospital, 7. 
 Ghent, grant of English lands to the abbey of 
 
 St. Peter at, 5. 
 Gil)bon, grave of, 277. 
 Gillingham, derivation of, church, battle 
 
 fought at. 48; fort, 57. 
 Gilly Wood, ravine in, 24;. 
 Gilton, in Ash parish, Saxon burial-ground 
 
 at. 208. 
 Giustinian describes the " Henrye Grace de 
 
 Dieu,' II. 
 Glanville, Bishop, hospital founded by, }; ; 
 
 monument to, 39. 
 Glass, stained, fragments of, in Cliffe church, 
 32; in Rodmersliam church, 66; of the 
 15th century, at Selling, 71; in Snodland 
 church, fragments of ancient, a chancel 
 window of modern, 75; remains of, in 
 Ditton and P^ast Mailing, 87 ; at Ofl'ham, 
 fragments in chancel-windows, 88 ; modern 
 window in Birling church, 90 ; fragments 
 in Leeds church, 95 ; window by \Villeraent 
 in Bromley church, 99 ; most of the ori-
 
 INDEX. 
 
 365 
 
 GLASS. 
 
 ginal remaining in Pettiest ed church, 124 ; 
 fragments of ancient, at Cranbrook, 128; 
 Munich, in Kilndown chnrcli, fragments in 
 Headcom, i"6. ; remains at Sandhurst, ijo; 
 early German, at Plucliley, iji ; fragments 
 in Little Chart church, ijz; in Monk's 
 Horton, in Stowting, 138 ; in Wye college, 
 153 ; very fine Early English, 1 54 ; remains 
 of the original in Oharlham church, 157 ; 
 transept window in Canterliury cathedral, 
 168 ; in Trinity chapel, of the 13th century, 
 172, 173; in a transept window, 176; I)y 
 Willement, in the Missionary College 
 chapel, 183 ; fragments of Flemish, in the 
 museum, 187 ; Isy Willement, in St. Ste- 
 phen's cliurch, 188; by Willement, In Ash 
 church, 208 ; modern and Flemish, of the 
 16th century, in Patrixbourne church, 218. 
 
 Glass, stained, in Ticehurst ch., 230 ; frag- 
 ments of, in Battle ch., 238; considerable 
 remains in Crowhurst ch., 241 ; incongruous, 
 in P,ye church, 249 ; remains of, at Wood- 
 church, 253 ; in Slaugham church, 256 ; 
 ■window in St. Nicholas' church, Brighton, 
 
 ' 261 ; figures on, in Southover claurch, 270 ; 
 fragments of Flemish, in Eastbourne, 282 ; 
 modern memorial window in Hurstmon- 
 ceux church, 287 ; fragments in AVestham 
 church, 292 ; in Hove church, 292 ; modern 
 windows in Arundel castle, 300; frag- 
 ments in the Lady chapel, 303 ; modern 
 windows in Chichester cathedral, 307 ; 
 claiming to he the first modem memorial 
 English Mnndow, 309 ; memorial window 
 by Willement, 310; fragments in Bright- 
 ling church, 3 jo; fragments in Stopham 
 church, 355; early, at Parham, 339; Perp. 
 in Whitley church, 345 ; in the chancel at 
 Woolbeding, removed from Mottisfont, 
 
 Gloucester Furnace, near Bayham Abbey, its 
 dispute with Mayfield, 228. 
 
 Glynde, etymology of, church and Place, 281. 
 
 Godalming, coach from, to Midhurst and 
 Chichester, 343. 
 
 Godington, l^elonging to the Tolies, 13J. 
 
 Godmersham, in Kent, 155. 
 
 Golden Hind, the, entertainment of Queen 
 Elizabeth on board, 5. 
 
 Golden pippin, birthplace of the, 258. 
 
 Goodnestone Park, church with old tower, 
 221, 222. 
 
 Goodwin Sands, apocryphal origin of, 130 ; 
 beacon for protection against, 202 ; seen 
 from Kingsdown Cliffs, 211; extent of, 
 sandbank forming, 212; memorable ship- 
 wrecks on, hovellers, 213- 
 
 Goodwood, derivation of the name, picture- 
 gallery, 319,320; park, race-course, 320, 
 321. 
 
 Gore Court, 64. 
 
 Goring, railway station at, 297. 
 
 Goudhurst, view from the church-tower, 
 128; smugglers of, 232. 
 
 Graffham, view from, 353. 
 \_Kent i^ Sussex.] 
 
 HALL. 
 
 Grain, Isle of, at the junction of the Thames 
 and Mfcdway, 18; church on, 49. 
 
 Grange, Perpendicular chapel at, 48. 
 
 , the, Kent, 90. 
 
 Grave-slabs of iron in Sussex, 230. 
 
 Graveney church, fine brass in, 71. 
 
 Gravesend, mode of transit from London to, 
 1 ; detention of ships at, 14 ; historical 
 events connected with, 15 ; described, its 
 public buildings, 16 ; width of the Thames 
 at, 17 ; omnibus from, 31. 
 
 Gravesends, family, the, manor-house of, at 
 Nutsted, 32. 
 
 Gray's Thurrock, its brick trade, 14. 
 
 Great Bayhall, in Sussex, 228. 
 
 Great Bounds, park near Tunbridge, 229. 
 
 Great Chart, Perpendicular church contain- 
 ing a remarkable brass, 135. 
 
 Great Mongeham, near Deal, 213. 
 
 Great Quex, history of its masters, 201. 
 
 Great Sowdens Wood, heronry of, 24!. 
 
 " Great upon Little," huge rocks near West 
 Hoathly, 255. 
 
 Greenhithe, chalk-trade of, embarkation of 
 Franklin's expedition from, 14. 
 
 Green way Court, a residence of the Cul- 
 pepers, 93. 
 
 Greenwich, transit from London to, i ; his- 
 torical personages associated with, ;, 6; 
 remarkable public buildings of, 6-11 ; 
 powder-magazine removed from, 14. 
 
 Gresham, Sir Thomas, his entertainment of 
 Queen Elizabeth, 231. 
 
 Grinling Gibbons, carvings by, in Ilurstmon- 
 ceux, 287. 
 
 Grocyn, William, tomb of, 80. 
 
 Groombridge, Moat House at, the Duke of 
 Orleans' imprisonment in, 229. 
 
 Grove Ferry, strawberry gardens of, 192. 
 
 Guestling church, a Flanders chest in the 
 vestry, 241. 
 
 Gundulf, Bishop, buildings of, at Rochester, 
 36, 37 ; reputed tomb, 40; tower of priory 
 re-established by, 41 ; hospital founded by, 
 47 ; palace built by, 98. 
 
 Gunpowder-magazine atErith, 14; on Plum- 
 stead marsh, 25. 
 
 mills at Dartford, 28 ; mills at Favers- 
 
 ham, 69; mills, the largest in England, 
 238. 
 
 Guston, legend of " the lone tree" at, 216. 
 
 H. 
 
 Hackendown Banks, battle fought at, tumuli, 
 
 201. 
 Hadleigh Castle, date of its erection, 18. 
 Hadlow Castle, in Kent, no. 
 church, belonged to Hospitallers, the 
 
 castle modern, 123. 
 Hailsham, in Sussex, 285. 
 Hales Place, built on the site of St. Stephen's 
 
 Place, 188. 
 Hall, event at Greenwich notified by, 5. 
 
 S
 
 366 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 HALL. 
 
 Hall Place, in Kent, 117. 
 
 Hallanil, a residence of the Pelliams, 279. 
 
 Halley, Edmund, bnvial-place of, 21. 
 
 Hailing, Bishop's palace at, 74. 
 
 Halnaker, in Sussex, chesnut avenue, ruins, 
 
 JI9- 
 
 Halstow Marshes, Roman potters' village, 
 church, 62. 
 
 Ham Street, on the borders of Rotnney 
 Marsh, 2?;. 
 
 Hamblin, Mr., inventor of the Nore light, 19. 
 
 Hammer ponds, ; J4. 
 
 Hammond. Dr., rectory of, 121. 
 
 Hamsey Church, near Lewes, 276. 
 
 Havbledown, site of an ancient lazar-house, 
 church described, 72 ; seen from the rail- 
 way, 158. 
 
 Harbours on the coast of Kent: Sheerness, 
 59; Hythe, i?5; Folkestone, 159; Dover, 
 149, 150; Piamsgate, 197; the Downs, 211, 
 212. 
 
 — on the coast of Sussex: in old times, 
 Winchelsea, 24;; R.ye, rivers forming, 
 248 ; Newhaven, 279 ; old, of Pevensey, 
 291 ; Shoreham, old, silted up, 292 ; the 
 new, 29; ; ancient, of Arundel, 298; Pag- 
 ham, 516; old, of Steyning, 342. 
 
 Hardham, ruined prioiy, church of St. Bo- 
 tolph, 3j;. 
 
 Hardres Court, memorials of HenryVIlI., 240. 
 
 Hare, Archdeacon, rectory, grave of, 287. 
 
 Haremare House, curious carving in, 2J2. 
 
 Harold, scene of his death, 2J5 ; at IJosham, 
 
 Harriotsbam church, architecture of, 94. 
 Harrison, his reference to Thames salmon, 2. 
 Harry, Mount, scene of the battle of Lewes, 
 
 274. 
 Hartfield church, hills in the neighbourhood, 
 
 J28. 
 
 Hartlip, Roman remains at, 62. 
 
 Harty church, curious oak chest in, 60 ; 
 island, 61. 
 
 Harvey, William, birthplace of, i;9. 
 
 Hassock's Gate, near Brighton, 258. 
 
 Hastings, situation of, 2_}8; source of its 
 prosperity, the castle, 2J9 ; East Cliff, 
 churches, celebrities of, 240 ; walks, ex- 
 cursions from, 241, 242. 
 
 Hawkhurst, lies partly in Kent, 2J2; the 
 smugglers of, 23 j. 
 
 Hawkinge, Norman church in, 142. 
 
 Hawkins, Sir .John, hospital founded by, 47. ' 
 
 Hayward's Heath, branch line to Lewes, 
 2;6; branch railway from, to Lewes, 266. 
 
 Heathfield Park, tower a landmark in, J29; 
 old foundry near, ? jo. 
 
 Hedcorn, church, enormous oak in the church- 
 yard, 128; excursion from, 150. 
 
 Hengist, his battle on the Cray, 26; Kentish 
 stronghold built by, 65 ; scene of his Iiattle 
 with Vortigern. 75; "White Horse stone" 
 of, 77 ; place of his landing in England, 196, 
 193. 
 
 Hellingly, tragedy of, 285. 
 
 IIOATH. 
 
 Hendall, old house at, 278. 
 
 Henfield, inscription in the church, 264. 
 
 Hengrove, near Margate, 201. 
 
 Henrietta Maria, building of, at Greenwich, 6. 
 
 Henry II., grant of, to the Knights Templars, 
 };; hospital founded by, 70; foundations 
 laid by, at Dover, 146; penance of, 178. 
 
 Henry III., Penshurst Castle besieged by, 
 12? ; hospital built l>y, 149; entertainment 
 given to, by John Mansell, 25?; lodging of, 
 before the battle of Lewes, 269. 
 
 Henry IV., funeral of, 17J, 174. 
 
 Henry V., alien priories repressed by, 5 ; 
 entertained at Sittingbourne, 6j. 
 
 Henry VI., bridge built by, 27; cannon- 
 balls 01,96; Tenterden united to the Cinque 
 Ports by, 1 jo. 
 
 Henry VIII., guild of the Holy Trinity 
 founded by, 4 ; passages in the life of, at 
 Greenwich, 5 ; picture of his embarkation 
 in the Henrye Grace de Dieu, 11 ; visit of, 
 to Rochester, 3 ; ; castle in Slieppey re- 
 paired by, 60 ; gardens of his fruiterer, 66 ; 
 his possession of Knole, 106; his visits to 
 Hever, 116; castles built by, 141; em- 
 barkation at Dover, 144; works of, at 
 Dover, 150; his visit to Charing, 155; 
 grammar-school founded by, 180; block- 
 houses built bj% 210. 
 
 Henrye Grace de Dieu, building and launching 
 of the, II. 
 
 Hentzner, Queen Elizabeth described by, 6 ; - 
 original of the tower of Miraflores accord- 
 ing to, 10; his night journey to Dover, 222. 
 
 Heppington, the residence of Bryan Fausset, 
 217. 
 
 Heriot, Allen, lighthouse projected by, 252. 
 
 Heme Bay, time of transit from London to, 
 I ; the pier of, 19. 
 
 Heme Hill, 71. 
 
 Heme, situation of the village, Ridley's 
 vicarage, bay, 189. 
 
 Heronden Hall, in Kent, ijo. 
 
 Heronry of Penshurst, 121; in Great Sow- 
 dens Wood, 24? ; of Angniering Park, 
 migration from, 298 ; history of the Par- 
 ham, 3 39, 340. 
 
 Hever Castle, description of, 115; history 
 and historical associations, church, muddy 
 roads, 116. 
 
 Hicks, C., his collection of curiosities in Rye 
 250. 
 
 Hicksted Place, in Sussex, built with orna- 
 mental bricks, 257. 
 
 Higham, Thames forded by the Romans at, 
 18; the church of, 32. 
 
 in Sussex, 234- 
 
 Highdown Hill, view from, earthwork on, 
 " the miller's tomb," 297. 
 
 Hildeferth, St., shrine of, 31 ; Cistercians, 
 grants of F^astclnn'cli to, 60. 
 
 Hill Park, near Brastcd, 113. 
 
 Hill, St. Thomas's, school for sons of the 
 clergy on, 7;. 
 
 Hoath, ruined jialace in, 189.
 
 INDEX, 
 
 ^37 
 
 HOG. 
 
 Hog-house, residence of the first founder of 
 iron cannon, 278. 
 
 Holborough House, hamlet of, Roman liaiTOW 
 opened in 1844, 74; view from the hill, 75. 
 
 Hole, or Thames Haven, a port for Xurwegiau 
 lobs,ter-boats, 18. 
 
 HolUiigboume church, monuments of the 
 Culpepers in, 94. 
 
 HoUiugsbury Castle, near Brighton, 263. 
 
 Holly, sea, unusually large in Sussex, 252. 
 
 Holmbush, in St. Leonards Forest, j_J4. 
 
 Holmsdale, the vale of, } 1 ; old rhyme de- 
 scribing, 110. 
 
 Holmstone, the, a tract in the Eomney 
 Marshes, 252. 
 
 Hoo, the hundred of, its character, j2 ; situ- 
 ation of, wild geese, church, 48, 49. 
 
 Hooker, memorials of, at Bishopsbourne, 219. 
 
 Hop, cultivation of the, in Kent, xiv. 
 
 Hop-grounds in the Blean, 72 ; of Maidstone, 
 79 ; near Turuham, 91 ; in the valley of 
 the Medway, 124 ; in liast Farleigh, 126. 
 
 Hope, A. J. Beresford, missionary college 
 founded by, i8j. 
 
 " Hope, the," last reach of the Thames, 18. 
 
 Hope Point, battery at, 18. 
 
 Horley, on the borders of the ^Veald, 254. 
 
 Home Farm, in Sussex, late Decadence 
 chapel at, 250. 
 
 Horsham, branch railway from Three Bridges 
 to, 254 ; derivation of the name, tine church, 
 P'ammar-school, quarries, ai. 
 
 Horsmonden church, fine brass in, wooden 
 porch with Dec. bargeboards, 127. 
 
 Horsted, grave of Horsa at, 75. 
 
 Horsted Keynes, curious effigy in the church, 
 Leighton's burial-place, 257. 
 
 Horton, church of, used as a barn, 158. 
 
 Horton Kirkby, architecture of its church, 
 history of the manor, 29, jo. 
 
 Horton Priory, history of, ijB. 
 
 Hospitallers, Ivnights, gift of Rodmersham 
 church to, 66; preceptory T)f, in West 
 Peckham, I2j, 125; preceptory at Swing- 
 field Minuis, 142; commandery of, in Po- 
 ling, 298. 
 
 Hospitals, for pilots and shipmasters :atDept- 
 ford, 4 ; ship converted into an, 5 ; origin, 
 history, description of Greenwich, 6-9; 
 Norfolk College, :o ; Morden College, 20 ; 
 Bishop Glauvi lie's, jj, J4; Richard Watts', 
 in Rochester, 44; Jlilitary, at Chatham, 
 47 ; Sir John Hawkins', ilj. ; founded by 
 Henry HI. at Ospringe, 70; founded by 
 Archbishop Lanfranc, 72-7J ; founded by 
 John Sedley at Aylesford, 76 ; A 11 Saints, in 
 Maidstone, 80 ; Bromley College, founded 
 3666, its iiistory, 99; St. Banholomew's 
 and St. John's, in Hythe, i}6; Maison 
 Dieu, in Dover, 148 ; St. John's, Kast 
 Bridge, in Canterbury, 186 ; Drapers', 
 founded by a Quaker, 201 ; St. Thomas's, 
 in Sandwich, 204 ; St. John and St. Bar- 
 tliolomew, in Sandwich, ib. ; Naval, at 
 Deal, 211. 
 
 INNS. 
 
 Hospitals in Sussex: ruined, at Arundel, 
 299. io}'i St. Mary's, in Chichester, ^ii, 
 J 12 ; Sackville College, J26, J27. 
 
 Hotels, at Cireenwich, 10; .at Staplehnrst, 
 127 ; Dover, 14J ; Canterbury, 158 ; Rams- 
 gate, 197; Deal, 209; Hastings, 238; St. 
 Leonard's, 241 ; iSrigbton, 259; Bognor, J04. 
 
 Hothfield, Jack Cade at, ijj. 
 
 ' Household AVords,' islets of the Medway 
 described in, 56, 57. 
 
 Hove, the " gold stone " of, 26j. 
 
 , church with stained windows, 292. 
 
 , a suburb of Brighton, 292. 
 
 Howard, Thomas, 2nd Karl of Arundel, grave 
 of, jo^. 
 
 Hou bourne, relic of the Sussex iron manu- 
 facture at, 278. 
 
 Huckinge chinch, in Kent, 94. 
 
 Huggins College, near Stone Bridge, 15. 
 
 Humpbrey, Duke of Gloucester, the tcjunder 
 of Greenwich Palace, 5; the 'Amadis de 
 Gaul ' indebted to, 10. 
 
 Hungerford i'ier, steamers from, for Graves- 
 end, for AVoolwich, 1 ; remarkable build- 
 ings to be seen after leaving, j. 
 
 Hurst, nieauing of the termination, 129 ; sig- 
 nification of, 2J0. 
 
 House, in Romney Marsh, plots con- 
 cocted in, 251. 
 
 " Hurst" Woods, in Kent, 125. 
 
 Hurstmonceux Castle, history, ruins of, 286 ; 
 church, 287, 283. 
 
 Hurstpierpoint, modern church, Dec, views 
 from the churchyard, 258, 259. 
 
 Hutchinson, Colonel, place of his imprison- 
 ment and death, 210. 
 
 Hythe, retiring of the sea at, ancient pro- 
 sperity, ii5 ; church, collection of bones in 
 the crypt, ib. ; hospitals, quarries, canal, 
 ij6 ; road from New Romney to, 252. 
 
 Icklesham church, Norman, carefully re- 
 stored, 248. 
 
 Ide Hill, view from, no. 
 
 Iden, in Sussex, 250. 
 
 Iford, church with central tower at, 274. 
 
 Ightham Common, church modernised, no. 
 
 " Ing," etymology of, 2^8, 298. 
 
 Inns, at Northfieet, 15 ; Southend, 18; Wool- 
 wich, 22; Dartford, 27; Rochester, 35; 
 Chatham, 45 ; Sheeruess, 59 ; Sittingbourne, 
 6j ; Favcrshaai, 66 ; Kit's Coity House, 
 77 ; Maidstone, 78 ; Sevenoaks, 105 ; Hever, 
 116; Tunbridge, 122; Cranbrook, 128; 
 Tenterdcn, 129 : Ashford, ij2 ; Folkestone, 
 IJ9; Dover, 14J ; Withersden, i,}; Heme 
 Bay, 189; Reculver, 191; on the Lynch, 
 Thanet, lyj ; Ramsgate, 197 ; Broadstairs, 
 199 ; Margate, ib. ; Sandwich, 202 ; Deal, 
 209 ; Black Robin's Corner, 220. 
 
 in Sussex : Tunbridge WelLs, 225 ; Eye, 
 
 248; New Romney, 251 ; Balcombe, 255; 
 
 s 2
 
 368 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 IRENE. 
 
 Haywards Heath, Ciukfield, 256; Stor- 
 rington and Petworth, 264; Lewes, 266; 
 Shorehara, 292 ; Worthing, 294; Arundel, 
 299; Chiihester, 505; Sutton, j23 ; Bury, 
 Pulborough, and Storrington, 325 ; the 
 " Cross in Hand," 326, 329 ; Horsham, jjz ; 
 Pulborough, J j;; Storrington, Jj6; Steyn- 
 ing, J41; Petworth, 544 ; Midhurst, 350. 
 
 Irene, the tragedy, where composed, 9. 
 
 Iridge Place, in Sussex, 234. 
 
 Iron, notice of the ancient production and 
 manufacture of, in Sussex, and existing 
 remains, xxiv-xxviii ; old work near Bay- 
 ham, lirtlustrade cast in, 228 ; grave-slabs, 
 2 jo; furnaces of JIayfield, 2ji ; oldest spe- 
 cimen of, work in Sussex, 2J2 ; Penn's 
 furnaces, m ; traces of Roman works, 244 ; 
 grave slabs of, 255 ; stone, works of Ash- 
 down Forest, 327 ; slabs in Withyam 
 church, }28 ; old furnace below Heathfield, 
 3JO ; qualities of Ashbmnham, 331 ; stone 
 of the Weald, 34?. 
 
 Ironstone, bed of, near Erith, 13; in Ash- 
 down Forest, 32'] ; i" 'lie Weald, 34!. 
 
 Isfleld Place, in Sussex, church, Gundrada's 
 tomb removed from, 278. 
 
 Islip, Archbishop, timber felling of, 230. 
 
 Itchingfield church, oak tower of, 334. 
 
 Iwood, view from, over Warbleton, 330. 
 
 James I., building of, at Greenwich, 6 ; his 
 exchange of lands with Sir Robert Cecil, 
 27 ; in Rochester cathedral, 3;. 
 
 James II., his detention at Rochester, 35; at 
 Faversham, 69. 
 
 James, Sir William, burial-place of, 97. 
 
 Jansen, Cornelius, English residence of, 217. 
 
 Jevington, near Eastbourne, 282. 
 
 John, King, scene of his interview with Pan- 
 dulph, 224. 
 
 John's, St., Church, Margate, rich in brasses, 
 200. 
 
 John's, St., College, near Brighton, connected 
 with Lancing, 259. 
 
 Johnson, Ur.,his name associated with Green- 
 wich, 9. 
 
 Jones, Inigo, architect of the Queen's House 
 at Greenwich, 6; part of the palace at 
 Greenwich built by, 7 ; a residence for 
 himself built by, 22 ; additions of, to Cob- 
 ham Hall, 50; his designs for Chcvening 
 House, 104 ; house in Lamberhurst rebuilt 
 by, 229. 
 
 Jonson, Ben, his descriptions of Penshurst, 
 n8. 
 
 Joyden's AVood, 28. 
 
 Judd, Sir Andrew, school founded by, 122. 
 
 Jugs, Brighton, 260; Borstal!, 275. 
 
 Julaber's Grave, supposed derivations of the 
 name, 155, 156. 
 
 Julius Caesar's wine, 146. 
 
 Justus, first bishop of Rochester, 36. 
 
 Juvenal, Rutupias mentioned by, 206. 
 
 KYNOR. 
 
 K. 
 
 Katherine's, St., excavation and removal of 
 
 the parish of, j. 
 Kearsney Abbey, in Kent, 151. 
 Kelsey Park, 98. 
 Kempe, Abp., birthplace of, college founded 
 
 by, I5J- 
 
 Kemsing, St. Edith's well at, 114. 
 
 Kemsley Down, Danish earthwork on, 64. 
 
 Kenardington, earthwork near, 25?. 
 
 Kent, extent and history, v; antiquities, 
 X ; products and manufactures, xiii ; geo- 
 logy and traveller's view, xvii ; skeleton 
 tours, XXXV ; routes in, i ; origin of the 
 name, 26 ; distinction between Kentish men 
 and the men of, 31 ; Roman villas in, 6r ; 
 sweet-chesnut trees in, 6;; its fertility, 66; 
 chalk-hills of, 74; the "Infanta" of, 90; 
 geology of, near Farnborough, loj ; fertility 
 of the Medway valley, 124 ; the hop- 
 district of, 126 ; introduction of canary 
 grass into, 189; amber found on the coast 
 of, 211 ; " the frieze garment" of, 220. 
 
 "Kentish rag" described, 95; various uses 
 served by, 96. 
 
 " Kentish" tracery, windows where it occurs, 
 
 157- 
 Kenwards, once a liouse of the Challoners, 
 
 i57- . . 
 
 Keycol Hill, Roman urns found m, derivation 
 of the name, 63. 
 
 Keymer, church of, in Sussex, 258. 
 
 Keynes family, origin of, 257. 
 
 Kid the pirate. Queen Amie's appropriation 
 of his wealth, •^. 
 
 Kidbrooke, near Ashdown Forest, 327. 
 
 Kilndown, church with Munich stained 
 glass, 128. 
 
 Kingly Bottom, fine yew-trees, Danish skir- 
 mish in, 321. 
 
 Kingsborough, in Sheppey, annual courts 
 held at, 60. 
 
 Kingsdown, stained glass in the church, 115. 
 
 , picturesque situation, old entrenchment, 
 
 view from the cliffs, 211. 
 
 Kingsgate, origin of the name, genuine and 
 fictitious antiquities of, 201. 
 
 Kingston, manor of, near Lew'es, 274. 
 
 Kingstone, miracles of, 240. 
 
 Kippinton Park, no. 
 
 Kit's Coity House, cromlech, surrounding 
 monuments, x, 77 ; sepulchral excava- 
 tions, 78 ; avenue of stones from Coldrum 
 to, 89. 
 
 Knepp Castle, ruins of, picture gallery, 265 ; 
 excursion to, from Horsham, J34. 
 
 Knole, belonging once to Canterbury, 105 ; 
 history of its transfer, house described, 
 106; pictures, 107-109; park and wilder- 
 ness, 109. 
 
 Knowlton Park, in Kent, 222. 
 
 Kynor, landing of LEUa and liis sons at, 317.
 
 IXDEX, 
 
 369 
 
 LABERIUS. 
 
 Labei'ius, locality of the battle where he fell, 
 
 2J4- 
 
 La Hogue, memorial of the victory of, 6. 
 
 Lamb, Charles, his appreciation of watering- 
 places, 240. 
 
 Lambarde, college founded by, 10. 
 
 Lamberhurst, in Sussex, 229. 
 
 Lancing, St. Nicholas' College at, derivation 
 of the name, 294. 
 
 Lanfranc, Archbisliop, hospital founded by, 
 72; scene of liis pleading against Odo of 
 Bayeux, 87 ; estate given in exchange by, 
 I2J ; rule for monasteries compiled by, 
 160; rebuilt Canterbury cathedral, 161; 
 Norman masons brought into England by, 
 
 Langdons, the two, in Kent, 215. 
 
 Langley Parle, fann, 98. 
 
 Langney, grange of Lewes priory, 285. 
 
 Langridge, Elizabethan chinnieys at, 74. 
 
 Langton, Arclibishop, place of his death, J26. 
 
 Lantern, the, of Lewes priory, 269 ; of Michel- 
 ham priory, 285. 
 
 Lapis Tituli, of Nennius, probable site of, 
 209. 
 
 I^arlcfield, hamlet and hundred of, 91. 
 
 Laughton, in Sussex, old house of the Pel- 
 hams in, 279. 
 
 Lavington Woods, from the South Downs, 
 
 iSi- 
 
 Lawrence, St., near Ramsgate, church with 
 
 Korman tower, 197. 
 Lea, the, falls into the Thames, 11. 
 Lee, the village of, 21. 
 Lee Priory, pseudo-Gothic, contains two fine 
 
 pictures, 218 ; establishment of the press, 
 
 219. 
 Leeds Castle, its history, impoitance in Kent, 
 
 description of, 92 ; priory, village, and 
 
 church, 9?. 
 Lees Court, 71. 
 Leigh, oyster fisheries of, 18. 
 Leigh church, curious brasses, 1 1 7. 
 Leigh Pond, in Sussex, its wild fowl, 256. 
 I-eighton, Archbishop, last residence and 
 
 grave of, 257. 
 Len, the, paper-mills on, 91 ; its source, 95. 
 Lenham church, fine sedile in, 94 ; manor 
 
 granted to St. Augustine's, Canterbury, 
 
 character of the district, 94, 95. 
 Le Notre, improvements by, at Greenwich, 9. 
 Leominster, church and priory, io\. 
 Leonard's, St., Forest, extending into Cuck- 
 
 field parish, 256; its extent, legends of, ijj ; 
 
 rivers rising in, ib. ; old iron-work, houses 
 
 in, JJ4. 
 , a manor of the Bishops of Rochester, 
 
 88. 
 
 , its relation to Hastings, 241. 
 
 Lesnes Abbey, raised embankments on the 
 
 Thames, 12; excursion to visit, ij ; situ- 
 ation, history of, 25. 
 
 LYMNE, 
 
 Lewes, branch railway from Hayward's Heath 
 to, 256 ; Star Inn, 266 ; etymology of, 
 situation, ib.; history of the castle, 267; 
 priory of St. Pancras, 268 ; rains of the 
 priory and church, 269 ; churches, 270, 271 ; 
 County Hall, ^yalks in the neighbourhood, 
 272-274; scene, history of the battle, 274- 
 276 ; excursions from, 277-281. 
 
 Lewisham, grant of, to a foreign abbey, 5 ; 
 town and church, 19. 
 
 Lewisheatli, a manor in Horsmondcn, 127. 
 
 Leyborne, church and castle, 90. 
 
 family, possessions of, in Kent, 90, 92. 
 
 Lichen, the Scyphophorus, Microphyllus, 
 habitat of, 255. 
 
 Lights, on the coast of Kent, vessel on the 
 Nore Sand, 18, 19; lighthouse on Margate 
 pier, 200; North Foreland, 201, 202 ; floats 
 ing, ou Goodwin Sands, 2ij ; on the South 
 Foreland, 216. 
 
 , on the coast of Sussex, on Dungeness 
 
 Point, 252 ; the Bell Tout lighthouse, 28J. 
 
 Lilbourne, John, place of his death, 97. 
 
 Lime-trees, the first brought to England, 28. 
 
 Lindfield, efligy, on glazed tiles, in the church, 
 
 257- 
 Linton Place, fine view from, church and 
 
 village, 95 ; Place and church, 127. 
 Lintot, Barnaby, birthplace of, az. 
 Little Charlton, in Kent, 131. 
 Little Chart, churcli, effigy of a Darell, I j2. 
 Little Hampton, landing of the Empress Ma- 
 tilda, canal to Portsmouth, sands, 298. 
 Little Horsted, in Sussex, 278. 
 Littlebounie, junction of the Stour and Lesser 
 
 Stour, 219. 
 Lodsworth church, woodwork cloister, ^50. 
 London Bridge, wharf, steamers from,   for 
 
 Margate, i. 
 station, railway trains from, for Dept- 
 
 ford, Greenwich, i. 
 Longsole, the hermitage at, 78. 
 Loose, village, picturesque situation of, 95. 
 Losenham priory, supposed siie of, 130. 
 Louis Philippe, residence of, during 184:8, 
 
 241 ; his landing at Newhaven, 279. 
 Lovelace, Pdchard, birthplace of, 24. 
 Lowell Hill, the highest ground in Thanet, 
 
 199. 
 Lower Danefield, P.oman baths in, 6j. 
 Lower, M. A., Handbook of, for Lewes, 
 
 267. 
 Lucan, Rutupiae referred to by, 206. / 
 
 Luddesdon, church and manor, 74. 
 LulUngstone Castle, ruins of the old, 114; 
 
 situation of the present, church with mo- 
 numents, 115. 
 Lvmt, belonged to the Hamlyns, now a farm- 
 
 house, 257. 
 Lydd, large Perpendicular church in, 252. 
 Lydden, "nailbourne" rising at, 224. 
 Lyell, Sir Charles, ins school, 350. 
 Lyminge, nunnery, church of various periods, 
 
 142. 
 Lymne, drive to, walls of, IJ7 ; river, its 
 S 3
 
 370 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 LYNCH. 
 
 change of course, church and watch-tower, 
 ii8. 
 Lynch, St. Blildred's, legend of St. Mildred, 
 I9i. 
 
 M. 
 
 Magavelda, St. Dunstan's, 2?o. 
 Maidstone, population of, derivation of the 
 name, 78 ; sources of its wealth and im- 
 portance, historical events, "jg ; church and 
 tombs, 79, 80; All Saints' Hospital.'archie- 
 piscopal palace, 80, 81 ; old quarter of, 
 82; excursions from, 8j ; excursion" to 
 Mailing Abbey and Addington, 87 ; road 
 from Westerham and Sevenoaks to, 89 ; 
 excursion from, to Leeds Castle and 
 Charing, 91 ; excursion to Linton from, 95. 
 Mailing Abbey, a Benedictine nunnery, its 
 
 architecture, 88. 
 Mailing, in Sussex, the deanery of, 27J. 
 Mann, Sir Horace, burial-place of, 9;. 
 Mansell, John, priory founded by, his sump- 
 tuous ostentation, 2;}. 
 Mansion Court, near Ramsgate, 197. 
 Mantell, Dr., birthplace of, 272. 
 Manufactures, Kent : biscuit-making atDept- 
 ford, 4 ; engine factory at Woolwich, 12; 
 lime at Northfleet, 15 ; gim factory at 
 Woolwich, 2} ; printing mills, saw mills 
 on the Cray, 26 ; paper mills on the Cray, 
 27 ; the founder of Dartfoi'd mills, 28 ; 
 , paper mills at Eynsford, 30 ; saw mills at 
 Chatham, 45 ; copperas works in the isle 
 of Sheppey, 58 ; powder mills near Favers- 
 hani, 69; lime works at Durham, 75; 
 paper mills on the Medway, 76 ; oil mill, 
 paper mills at Maidstone, 79 ; Turkey and 
 paper mills in the neighbourhood of Maid- 
 stone, 82 ; paper mills in Bradbourne Park, 
 88 ; paper mills on the Len, 91 ; broad- 
 cloths of Cranbrook, 127; of Goudhurst, 
 128; paper mill at Chartham, 158; of the 
 Flemings in Sandwich, 2o}. 
 .^— in Sussex : Tunbridge ware, origin of, 
 227 ; old iron furnace near Bayhara, 228 ; 
 iron, at Mayfield, 2ji; iron furnaces of 
 Hawkhurst, 2j?; powder mills of Battle, 
 2J8 ; relics of the old Weald iron, 278 ; in 
 old times, glass works, J4J. 
 Manwood, Sir Roger, schools, almshouses 
 
 founded by, 188. 
 Marden, in Kent, 127. 
 Maresfield, near Lewes, 277. 
 Maresfield manor, assigned to John of Gaunt, 
 
 }27; park, }28. 
 Margaret's, St., at Cliif, fine Norman church 
 at, 215; manor Ijelonging to Canterbury, 
 bay famous for lobsters, 216. 
 Margate, mode of transit from London t<i, i ; 
 source of its prosperity, name, unde deri- 
 vatur, 199; the original village, place of 
 embaikation for Holland, 200. 
 Martello towers, on the coast of Sussex, 252 ; 
 between Eastbourne and Hastings, 28j. 
 
 MONTFORT. 
 
 Martin, George, the Bible translator, birth- 
 place of, 242. 
 Martyrs, portraits of, on church windows, 
 
 75- 
 Mary Cray, St., church, brasses m, 27. 
 Mary, Queen, the birthplace of, 5. 
 Mask, scene of the first, in England, 5. 
 Maxfield, old timbered house at, 242. 
 Mayfield, road from Tunbridge Wells to, , 
 228 ; legends of St. Dunstan, archbishops 
 who died at, 130; church, ruins of the 
 palace, furnaces, 231 ; St. Dunstan's well, 
 excursions, 2?2. 
 Mayor, Lord, of London, " Conservator of the 
 
 Thames," 2; limit of his jurisdiction, 18. 
 Medway, the, bounding the Lord Mayor's 
 jurisdiction on the Thames, i ; joins the 
 Thames, 18 ; towns on, j}, 34; oyster fish- 
 eries, 44; name of, 56; its islands, 57; 
 from Rochester to Maidstone, 74; paper 
 mills on, 76 ; at AUington castle, 8J ; 
 castle on, 122, 12? ; the valley of, 124; at 
 Farleigh, 126; source of, J27. — 
 Meopham, village and church, J2. 
 Mereworth, fertility of the country between 
 Maidstone and. 96 ; castle and church, 
 modern, 12;, 126. 
 Merscwara, the, Saxon, 250. 
 Mersham Hatch, in Kent, ijj. 
 Merton College, the founder of, jg. 
 Michelham priory, a house of Augustinian 
 
 canons in Henry III. 's reign, 28;. 
 Middlesex, boundary between Essex and, 11. 
 Midhurst. situation of, 350; foundations of 
 the Bohuns' Castle, 351 ; country between 
 F.arnhurst and, 352. 
 Midl.avant church, in Sussex, 355. 
 Mike Mill's Race, an avenue in St. Leonard's 
 
 Forest, 233. 
 Milford House, near Godalmiug, 343. 
 Milgate, in Kent, 91. 
 Milsted church and manor, 94. 
 Milton, Decadence church at, 16. 
 
 , oyster fisheries, church, 64. 
 
 , near Canterbury, 158. 
 
 Street, Anglo-Saxon coins found, 282. 
 
 " Minnis," signification of, 224. 
 Minster, in Sheppey, copperas factory at, 
 58; the site of a nunneiy, history of, 59. 
 
 , legends of the monastery, 192 ; church 
 
 described, 193; court, turbulent tenantry 
 of the manor, ib. ; chalkpit, 194. 
 Mints, Athelstane's, at Lewes, 267. 
 Missionary college, in Canterbury, 18?. 
 iVloat, the', Ightham, built at three periods, 
 history of its transfer to the Selbys, iil, 
 112. 
 INIonceux, Waleran de, places named from, 
 
 286. 
 Monk's Horton, curious wooden tower at, 138. 
 Monkton, the church, of all perifids, 196. 
 Montague, Lord Anthony, his 'Book of Or- 
 ders and Rules,' 351. 
 Slontfort, Simon de, siege of Rochester 'by, 
 i7 ; troops assembled by, on Barham
 
 INDEX. 
 
 571 
 
 MONTREAL. 
 
 Downs, 221 ; conduct of, at the battle of 
 Lewes, 2^$ ; encampment of, 2']7. 
 
 Montreal, in Kent, no. 
 
 Moore, Giles, journal of, 257. 
 
 Morant's Court Hill, view from, no. 
 
 Morden College, an hospital, date of its found- 
 ation, 20. 
 
 More, Sir Thomas, vault where his bead was 
 buried, 186. 
 
 Mortimer the painter, birthplace of, 284. 
 
 Morton, Archbishop, his furtherance of the 
 union of the Hoses, i^v. 
 
 Mote, the, signification of the name, 82 ; his- 
 tory of, 8j. 
 
 Mottenden, house of Crouched Friars in, 128. 
 
 Muntham, near Cis'sburj', 296. 
 
 Museums in Kent : at Chatham, 47 ; at 
 Brompton, ib. ; the Charles, at Maidstone, 
 82; Dover, 149; Canterbury, 186, 187; 
 Iilargate, 200; archaeological collection of 
 Mr. Rolfe in Sandwich, 205. 
 
 in Sussex : of the Sussex Archaeological 
 
 Society, 267, 268 ; in Chichester, 311. 
 
 N. 
 
 '' Xailbourne " in Addington parish, 90 ; at 
 Barham, 220 ; at Lydden, 224. 
 
 Xapoleon, relics of, at Woolwich, 24. 
 
 Nash Court, 71. 
 
 Nash, a hamlet in Kent, 9?. 
 
 Nash Court, near Margate, 201. 
 
 Nathurst Lodge, ruins of an old castle at, 3^4. 
 
 Nelson, relievoes representing his death, 7 ; 
 relics of, preserved at Greenwich, 8. 
 
 Nettlested church, fine stained glass in, 124 ; 
 Place, its owners, 125. 
 
 Nevilles, ancient residence of the, near By- 
 arsh,9o; country-house belonging to, for 
 above 500 years, 229. 
 
 New Cross, view from, 19. 
 
 " New Place " in Angmering, birthplace of 
 the Palmers, 298. 
 
 New P>omney, Saxon name of, 251 ; cause of 
 its decline, sole remaining church of, an- 
 nual fair, 252. 
 
 Newenden, in the church a square font, Nor- 
 man, establishment of Carmelites, lio. 
 
 Newhaven, drive from Brighton to, 26j ; 
 place of embarkation for Dieppe, Louis- 
 PhiUppe's lauding at, 279; excursions 
 from, 280. 
 
 Newington, church, priory, 6j ; curious font 
 in the church, 142. 
 
 Newtimber Place, moated house near Brigh- 
 ton, 264. 
 
 Newton, Sir Adam, manor-house built by, 
 occupation of his retirement, 21. 
 
 Nicholas, St., history of the church of, at 
 Deptford, 4; at Wade, road from Jlinster 
 to, igj ; description of the church, 196. 
 
 Noning'ton church in Kent, 222. 
 
 Nore sand, light on, 19. 
 
 North Foreland, lighthouses, sea-fight off, 
 201, 202. 
 
 OXENBRIDGE. 
 
 North, Lord, his discovery* of Tunbridge 
 
 Wells, 226. 
 , Roger, Sayes Court gardens described 
 
 by, 4. 
 Northampton, Henry Earl of, college built 
 
 and endowed by, 10. 
 Northbourne, fine church at, described, 21J ; 
 
 court, its gardens, 214. 
 Northfleet described, 15, J i. 
 Northiam church, in Sussex, 24?.' 
 Normans, in Kusper, old chest preserved at, 
 
 Norwood, the gipsies of, 98. 
 Nun of Kent, her cell in Canterbury, 184. 
 Nunnery, first established in England, 140. 
 Nutsted, 14th century manor-house at, ji. 
 
 0. 
 
 Oak-trees, 2 of unknown age, in Sussex, 279. 
 
 Dates, Titus, birthplace of, 240. 
 
 Observatory, the, at Greenwich, 10; com- 
 pass, at Woolwich, 24; onBrightliugDown, 
 no. 
 
 Ockendon House, Timothy BurrelKs resi- 
 dence, 256. 
 
 (Ella, the landing of, J17. 
 
 Oft'ham, church and Green, 88; chalk-pits, 
 railway, 276. 
 
 Offington, ancient residence of the De la 
 Warres, 294. 
 
 Old Mailing, church at, tradition of Becket's 
 murderers, 272, 27J. 
 
 Old Place, in Pulljorougb, }j;. 
 
 Old Romney, the earliest Cinque Port, 252. 
 
 Oldben-y Hill, Roman camp at, no. 
 
 Oldcastle, Sir John, his possession of Cowl- 
 ing, J3 ; his right to the title of Lord Cob- 
 ham, 49. 
 
 OUantigli, near Wye, i;j. 
 
 Ore Place, built bj' John of Gaunt, 241. 
 
 Orleans, Duke of, his prison for 25 years. 
 229. 
 
 Orpington church, architecture of, 27. 
 
 Osengall Hill, railway cutting in, graves, 198, 
 199. 
 
 Osmunda regalis, growing plentifully at Har- 
 rison's Rocks, 229. 
 
 Ospriuge, Maison Dieu at, 70. 
 
 Ossuaries in Kent, 135. 
 
 Otford, ruins of an archiepiscopal palace at, 
 church of, 114. 
 
 Othani church, 91. 
 
 desecrated chapel at, 285. 
 
 Otterden Place, church built on| the site of 
 ancient one, 95. 
 
 Otway, birthplace of, J52. 
 
 Ouse, the, in Sussex, viaduct over, 256 ; flow- 
 ing through Lewes, 266 ; old estuary of, 
 263 ; knights drowned in, 276 ; old port of, 
 279; its original outlet, 280; source of, 
 
 }ii, JJ4- 
 
 Ovingdean church, in Sussex, 26?. 
 
 Oxenbridge, Sir Goddart, legend of, monu- 
 ment in Brede church, 242.
 
 372 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 OXFORD. 
 
 Oxford, chair of ship-timber at, 5 ; professor- 
 ship at, founded by Camden, 26. 
 
 Oxney Court, in Kent, 215. 
 
 , a cattle-feeding island in the Rother, 
 
 250. 
 
 Oyster-fishery on the Thames, 18, 19; fish- 
 eries in the Jledway, 44 ; of the Cheyney 
 Rock, 60 ; at Milton, 64 ; ancient guild of 
 fishers, 69. 
 
 P. 
 
 Paddleworth, Xorman church at, 142. 
 
 Pagliam Ilarljour, the Hushing Well, church 
 injured by repairs, ji6. 
 
 Paintings in Greenwich by Sir James Thorn- 
 bill, 8 ; mural, in Rochester cathedral, j8 ; 
 traces of, in the crypt, 40; in Faversham 
 church, 67 ; Maidstone church, 80; min-al, 
 in St. Martin's College, Dover, 148 ; Ro- 
 man mural, in Richborough, 207. 
 
 found in Sussex : mural, of the Dec. 
 
 period, in Lindfleld church, 257 ; mural, in 
 Preston church, of Beclset's murder, 26 j; 
 mural, in St. Nicholas's church, Arundel, 
 30; ; Bisliop Sherborne's " lace-work," jo8- 
 310; ceiling attributed to Bernard!, 311; 
 ceiling, by Kneller, 317; in Boxgrove 
 church, 318; mural, in Rotherfield church, 
 329; by La Guerre, at Petworth, 345 ; 
 mural, rude, in Shulbrede priory, 352. 
 
 Pancras, St., distinguished by Augustme, 268. 
 
 Paper manufacture of Kent, xvii. 
 
 Parsons, William, burial-place of, 21. 
 
 Parham, situation of, 336; collections of 
 MSS., early printed books, armour, &c., 
 337; pictures and gallery, 338; chapel, 
 park, and heronry, 339; raven's nest, 340. 
 
 Pashley, house in Ticehurst, 230. 
 
 Pateha'm Place, in Sussex, 298. 
 
 Patrixbourn, fine Normau chvarch, 217; vi- 
 carage, 218. 
 
 Paulinus, St., church dedicated to, 26, 27. 
 
 Paul's Cray, St., architecture of, 27. 
 
 Paultring, Thanot, custom of, ig?. 
 
 Pax Hill, an Elizabethan liouse in Sussex, 257. 
 
 Peasemar^h, in Sussex, 250. 
 
 Pegwell Bay, landing-place of Augustine, 73 ; 
 the two landings in, 197. 
 
 Pelhams, the, devices of, at Crowhurst, 241 ; 
 monument to Sir Nicholas, 271 ; old house 
 of, at Laughton, 279 ; an exploit, 280 ; 
 at Pevensey, 289 ; priory removed from 
 Hastings by Sir John, ?jo. 
 
 Pelt, walk from, to Cliff End, 242. 
 
 Pembury church, in Sussex, 228. 
 
 Penn, William, his iron-furnaces, 233. 
 
 Pennenden Heath, " shyregemots " on, 87. 
 
 Penshurst Place, irregularity of the Imild- 
 ings, apparent antiquity, 117; hall and 
 vaulted cellar, 118 ; pictures, 119 ; history, 
 worthies of, the park, 1 20. 
 
 Peppingford Lodge, near Ashdown Forest, 
 328. 
 
 TORTUS. 
 
 Pepys, Mr., quoted, 6 ; the Dutch in the 
 
 Thames, 46. 
 Percies, the, date of their possession of Pet- 
 worth, 344. 
 Peter the Great, residence of, at Sayes 
 
 Court, 4. 
 Peter's, St., near Broadstairs, church Perpen- 
 dicular, 199. 
 Petham, remains of entrenchments at, 220. 
 Pett, Peter, his invention, his monument at 
 Deptfurd, 4. 
 
 , Phineas, the shipbuilder, portrait of, 11. 
 
 Petworth, town, church, monuments of the 
 Percies, 344 ; annals of the park, 344, 345; 
 pictures, 345-349 ; park landscapes, the 
 Ravens' Clump, 349, 350. 
 
 Pevensey Bay, wild fowl in, 284; "Lowy" 
 of, 288 ; history of the castle, f288, 289 ; 
 description, 289, 290; landing of William, 
 290; church, 291 ; old prison, 292. 
 
 Pliilipott, Sir John, chapel built by, 48. 
 
 Pickwick Papeis, view from Rocliester bridge 
 described, 35; principal productions of 
 Rochester, 36 ; review at Chatham, 48 ; an- 
 tiquarian discovery, 54. 
 
 Pictures, collections of, in Kent : at Green- 
 wich, 7,8; Eritb, 13; Cobham, cards of 
 admission to, 49; tlie gallery described, 
 50-53 ; Preston Hall, 78 ; portraits at 
 Chevening, 104; Knole, 107-109; Shore- 
 ham, 114; Redleaf, 117; Penshurst, 119; 
 two good, in Lee prioiy, 218; St. Albans 
 Court, 222. 
 
 , collections of. In Sussex : portraits in 
 
 Brickwall House, 24; ; Knepp Castle, 265 ; 
 2, in the Coimty Hall, Lewes, 272 ; Arun- 
 del, 300; Goodwood, 319, 320; Up Park, 
 322 ; Slindon, 326 ; Ashburnham House, 
 3;i ; early, in distemper, at Parham, 337 ; 
 others, gallery at Parham, 338, 339; Pet- 
 worth, 345-349- 
 
 Piddinghoe, popular saying regarding, 280. 
 
 Pigeonhouse of Lewes Priory, 269. 
 
 " Pilgrims' Path," the, above Hailing, 74, 91 ; 
 crossing Chevening Park, 104; on the hills 
 above Otford, 114; route of, described, 155. 
 
 Playden church, Walloon brewer's monu- 
 ment in, 250. 
 
 Plaxtole church, in Kent, iii. 
 
 Pluckley, Early English church in, fine views 
 from the village, 151. 
 
 Plumpton Place, old moated house, in Sussex, 
 253. 
 
 Plumstead, church and churchyard, 25. 
 
 "Point, the,'' a chalk cavern on Blackheath,2i. 
 
 Polegate, branch railways from, 282. 
 
 Poling, wild fowl decoy in, old commandery, 
 298. 
 
 Pool, the, the Thames below London Bridge,?. 
 
 Pope, recollections of, at West Grinstead, 265. 
 
 Rjplars, 100 j-ears old in Canterbury, 186. 
 
 Po]ipy, the yellow horned, habitat, virtues of, 
 140. 
 
 Portus Culhmanni, retiring of tl'.e sea from, 
 i42-
 
 INDEX. 
 
 373 
 
 PORTUS. 
 
 Portus Lemaiiis, its present distance from the 
 sea, IJ5 ; descriljed, ijS. 
 
 Pottery : Roman, in UpclmrcU marshes, 62 ; 
 stoneware, near Aylesford, ']6 ; British, 
 Roman, and Samian ware, found in Camden 
 Parlv, 100 ; Roman, from Wye Downs, 175 ; 
 Roman, in Chilbam Castle, 176 ; red Samian 
 ware, dredged up off Reculver, 188, 191 ; 
 Roman, found in Richborough, 207 ; a Ro- 
 man, discovered, at Dinicburcb, Samian 
 ware, 253 ; Roman, found at Cissbury, 295 ; 
 Roman, at Bignor, j2;. 
 
 Poundgate, Druidical remains, 89. 
 
 Poynings, church, ruins of the old manor- 
 house, 263. 
 
 Premonstratensian canons, priory founded 
 by Richard de Clare for, i2j ; abbey 
 founded 1191, for monks, 151; house of, 
 canons, removed from Otham to Bayham, 
 228 ; severe architecture of, ib. ; house of, 
 founded by Henry Hoese, 352. 
 
 Preston church, 70; hall, originally a man- 
 
 ' sion of the Colepepers, 78. 
 
 , mural painting in, 26 j. 
 
 Priory at Dartford, history of, 27. 
 
 Products of Kent, xiii ; of Sussex, xxix. 
 
 Prospect House, an inn on St. Mildred's 
 Lynch, 19; ; high ground above, 19;. 
 
 Provinces, the United, deputies from, re- 
 ceived 1588 at Greenwich, 6. 
 
 Ptolemy, the Counnenos of, 5. 
 
 Puck Church Parlour, cliff near Seaford,28i. 
 
 Pudding Pan Rock, theories accounting for 
 Samian ware found off, 191. 
 
 Pugin, A. W., residence of, atRamsgate, 197. 
 
 Pulborough, church of, a type unusual in 
 Sussex, Roman castellnm, jj5. 
 
 Purfleet described, origin of the name, i} ; 
 powder-magazine, 14. 
 
 Q. 
 
 Quarries in Kent : chalk at Buriiam, 75 ; Kent- 
 ish rag, 8j, 95 ; conglomerate, 99 ; marble, 
 IJ2; greensand, i;6. 
 
 in Sussex : above Cuckfield, 256 ; Hors- 
 ham, JJ2; Petworth marble, j;o. 
 
 Quarry Hills, the, group of churches on, i ;o. 
 
 Queenborough Castle, a fortification of Sheer- 
 ness, 58 ; position of, 60. 
 
 Quex family, residence of the, 201. 
 
 Quile, shares of plunder, 19;. 
 
 R. 
 
 Racton, near Stanstead Park, J22. 
 Radigund's, St., Abbey, excursion to, 142 ; 
 
 date of its foundation, ruins, i;i. 
 Rainham, mommients in the church of, 61. 
 Raleigh, Sir Walter, at Greenwich, 6. 
 Ramsgate, situation of, origin of the name, 
 
 piers, 197. 
 
 ROMAN. 
 
 Raven's nest at Parham, 340 ; Clump at Pet- 
 worth, J50. 
 
 Ravensbourne, the, its junction with the 
 Lee, }. 
 
 Reculver, seen from Hearne Bay, 19 ; Samian 
 ware dredged up off, 188 ; Roman fortress, 
 Saxon palace, 189-191 ; ruined church, tra- 
 dition of the "Sisters," 191. 
 
 Redleaf, near PensUurst, picture-gallery, 
 views from the grounds, 117. 
 
 Reed grass, used lor fencing in Kent, 209. 
 
 Regiumi, site of, 305. 
 
 |{egulbium, the ancient, 190. 
 
 Richard II., right of conveying passengers to 
 London confirmed by, 15 ; one of his pri- 
 sons, 92 ; at Eltham, 97. 
 
 Richard ill., estate forfeited by Buckingham 
 to, I2J ; story of his son, tlie last Planta- 
 geiiet, 15}, 154- 
 
 Richborough, fortress on the Wantsome, 
 190; railway view of, i<)i; its classical 
 reputation, 205, 206; memorials of the 
 Roman period, 206; description of the for- 
 tress, 207 ; the amphitheatre, occupation 
 of, by Saxons, 208. 
 
 Ridley, Bishop, his first cure, 189. 
 
 Ringmer, in Sussex, 275. 
 
 Ringwould, church of, a landmark, 215. 
 
 Ripley Court, Alexander Idens residence, 15 f. 
 
 Ripple church, belonging to St. Augustine's, 
 215. 
 
 Piiver, a village in Kent, 151, 
 
 Kiverhill, in Kent, no. 
 
 Roljcrtsbridge, ruins of a Cistercian Abbey 
 at, ^V'alpole s visit, 2;}. 
 
 Rocher de Cancale, importation of oyster- 
 spawn from, 18. 
 
 Rochester, character of the town, bridges, 34, 
 }y ; historical personages associated wilh, 
 3;; description of, j6 ; the cathedral, j6- 
 41 ; bishops of, martyrs, or exiles, 41 ; 
 priory and deanery, 41 ; the castle de- 
 scribed, 42; its history, 45 ; other objects 
 of interest, trade, appellation of the inha- 
 bitants, 44, 45 ; walk from, 49; fine view 
 of, 74 ; tribute from Mailing Abbey to the 
 bishop, 88 ; former residence of the bishops 
 of, 98. 
 
 Rodersham church, belonged to the Knights 
 of St. John, 66. 
 
 Roding, the, joins the Thames, 12. 
 
 Rugate, in Sussex, 352. 
 
 lingers, Samuel, country-house of, no. 
 
 Rolvenden, in Kent, ijo. 
 
 Roman antiquities in Kent, xi ; traces of 
 bui'.dingsat Ji ydi'iVsWood, 28 ; in the val- 
 ley of the Darent, jo ; bricks in Swanscombe 
 church, J I ; causeway, near Higham. 52 ; the 
 Castrum Durobriva-, 35 ; on Boley Hill, 4J ; 
 liricks in Rochester walls, 44; villas in 
 Kent, 61 ; potteries, masonry, in the Up- 
 church marshes, 62 ; baths at Hartlip, 62, 
 63 ; sepulchral urns, 6j ; relics found at 
 Iiavington, 70; traces of buildings on the 
 Medway banks, 74 ; fibula found near Hoi-
 
 374 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ROMAN. 
 
 borougb, lb.; traces of a villa, "j;; villa 
 near Aylesford, 78 ; relics found at Jlaid- 
 stone, 82; road to Maidstone, 89; urns in 
 Thurnliam Castle, 91 ; pottery and Samian 
 ■ware, found at Camden Place, 100; tiles in 
 Hayes church, loi ; villas near Keston, 
 "Cesar's Camp," tlie site of a town, 102; 
 camp at Oldberry Hill, no; road, remains 
 of villas near Court of Street, IJ4; castrum 
 near Lymne, IJ7; Caesar's Camp, near 
 Folkestone, 141 ; the Pharos at Dover, 14; ; 
 burial-gi-ound on Wye Common, i;j ; form 
 of the city on the site of Canterbury, ng ; 
 fortress at Reculver, 190 ; graves in Tha- 
 net, 198; sepulchral urns at Daundelyon, 
 200; urns In Sandwich, 204; the ancient 
 Eutupi.v, 205-208 ; sepulchral remains in 
 AValdershare park, 22j. 
 Roman Antiquities in .Sussex, xxi; traces of 
 iron-works, 244 ; altar in Stone vicarage, 
 250 ; settlement on Romney Marsh, ib. ; 
 remains of a pottery at Dimcliurcb, 25? ; 
 remains of an entrenchment on the South 
 Downs, 258 ; site of a camp in Lewes, 2']t ; 
 urns and medals found near Seaford, 280 ; 
 villa at Birling Gap, 284; fortress at Pe- 
 vensey, 288-289; remains found in Chi- 
 chester, 305; in St. Olave's church, }12; 
 pavement under St. Andrew's church, ib. ; 
 slab at Goodwood, ?2o; pavements at 
 Bignor, j24, J25 ; gold ring, n5 ;«istellum, 
 traces of a villa near Pulborough, J35 ; 
 entrenchment, ib. ; remains of a bridge at 
 Bramber, 342. 
 " Roman Codde," possible interpretation of, 
 
 211. 
 Ronmey Marsh, its isolation, 250; unhealthi- 
 
 ncss, cattle fed on, sea-walls, 251. 
 Romney, removal of Cinque Port Courts to, 
 
 133. 
 Rooke, Sir George, memorial of his naval 
 
 victory, 7. 
 Roper, Margaret, berhouse in Canterbury , 1 36, 
 P.ose Hill, in Sussex, jjo. 
 RosherviUe Gardens, transit from London to, 
 
 I ; laid out in old chalk-pits, 15. 
 Rother, the, ancient river identified with, 
 138 ; point to which it was anciently navi- 
 gable, 2J2; picturesque situation of an 
 abbey on, 233 ; death of Laberius at, 254; 
 joining two rivers to form Rye harbour, 
 243 ; "fonning Oxney island, 250 ; wall 
 marking the old course of, 251 ; results of 
 its change of course, 252 ; castellum com- 
 manding its junction with the Arun, ?}? ; 
 navigable from Midhurst, 350 ; bridge built 
 by Lord Caniois over, 352; valley of, 358. 
 — — , the Little, flowing past Cowdray, 351. 
 Rotherfield, church with spire at, 329. 
 Rottingdean, battle fought at, 263, 264. 
 Round Down Cliffs, removal of, by gun- 
 powder, 14J. 
 Routes in Kent: the Thames, London to 
 Margate, i ; London to Chatham, 19; the 
 Isle of Sheppey, 56; Chatham to Canter- 
 
 SAXONS. 
 
 bury, 61 ; Rochester to Maidstone, 73 ; 
 London to Sevenoaks, 96 ; Eeigate to 
 Dover, 115; Ashford to Canterbury, 152; 
 Canterbury to Margate, 188; Cantert>ury 
 to Dover, 202 ; Canterbury, by Barbara 
 Down, to Dover, 217. 
 
 Routes in Sussex: Tunbridge to Hastings, 
 225; Hastings to Ashford, 24; ; London to 
 Brighton, 253; London to Hastings, 286 ; 
 Brighton to Chichester, 292 ; East Grin- 
 stead to Hastings, 326; Horsham to Shore- 
 ham, 332; Godalming to Chichester, ^4;. 
 
 " Royal Albert," the, marks an epoch in 
 ship-building, 11. 
 
 " Royal George," the, model of, 9 ; built at 
 Woolwich, II ; relics of, 47. 
 
 Roydon Hall, an estiite of the Twysden 
 family, 125. 
 
 Rucking, in Sussex, 253. 
 
 Ruim, t$ritish name of Thanet, 194. 
 
 Rusper, nunnery house at, 334. 
 
 Rutupi*, the ancient, 205. 
 
 Eyarsh Hill, Innaidical remains on, 89 ; 
 church, 90. 
 
 Rye, .ancient aspect of, 248 ; retiring of the 
 sea from, causes of its decline, ib. ; church, 
 Ypres tower. Land Gate, 249. 
 
 Rysbrach, statue by, at Greenwich, 7. 
 
 Sackvilles, the, old mansion of, in Sussex, 328. 
 .Salehurst church, below Silver Hill, 233. 
 Salisbury, Countess of, a manor belonging 
 to, 28. 
 
 Sulmeston, anciently a grange of St. Augus- 
 tine's, 201. 
 
 Saltwood castle, description, history of, in- 
 jured by an earthquake, 136; Beckel's 
 murderers at, 137 ; tunnel, 139. 
 
 Salvington, memorial of Selden at, 297. 
 
 Samphire, on Beachy Head, 284. 
 
 Sancup Well, in Penshurst Park, 121. 
 
 Sandgate, fortifications of, 141. 
 
 Sandhurst, church mutilated, 130. 
 
 Sandling Place, 85. 
 
 Park, near Saltwood, 137; Saltwood 
 
 Castle seen from, 1 39. 
 
 Sandown, near Deal, ruined castle where 
 Colonel Hutchinson died, 2ro. 
 
 Sandstone, yellow, of Worth. 255. 
 
 Sandwich, description, history of the town, 
 202 ; historical recollections of, Flemish 
 colony, 203 ; churches and hospitals in, 
 204 ; grammar-school founded by Sir Roger 
 Manwood, 205. 
 
 Sarre, ferry in old times at, 192. 
 
 Satis, Master Watts' house, origin of the 
 name, 4;. 
 
 Saxon antiquities in Kent, xi. 
 
 Sa.xons, 'scat of their ancient councils, 32; 
 name of Rochester, 3; ; 10,000 baptized, 
 58 ; scene of a mass.acre of the Britons by, 
 65 j scene of their shyregemots, 87 ; mode
 
 IXDEX^, 
 
 375 
 
 SAVES. 
 
 of recognising tbeir settlomnnts, 129; 
 mansions built by, 1^5 ; site of a cemeterj' 
 of, 140; palace at Retulver, 190; their 
 early possession of Tbanet, 194 ; graves of, 
 on Osengall Hill, 198 ; coins, ornaments 
 of, found in Richborough, 208 ; one of their 
 earliest settlements, 208, 209 ; first colonies 
 of, 2ij; district in Ronmcy Marsh, 250; 
 architecture of, 254; first colonists of the 
 south, 305; settlement of the south, 317; 
 fortress, 342. 
 
 Sayes Court, buildings now on the site of, 4. 
 
 Schalch, Andrew, history of his appointment 
 at Woolwich Arsenal, 22. 
 
 Seotney Castle, in Lamberhurst, 229. 
 
 Scot's Hall, history of its possessors, IJJ. 
 
 Sea-wall, from Romney to Hythe, district 
 taxed for. 252, 253. 
 
 Seacock's House, built by smugglers, 252. 
 
 Seaford, attacks of the French on, St. Leo- 
 nard's church at, 280, 281. 
 
 Seal church, curious brass in, 110. 
 
 Sedlescomb church, font-cover, Perp., 244. 
 
 Sedley, Sir Charles, birthplace of, 76. 
 
 Selden, birthplace of, 297. 
 
 Selling church, fine window in, 71. 
 
 Selsey, tradition of the Saxon conversion at, 
 submerged cathedral, present church, 315 ; 
 wild fowl, fishery, 316. 
 
 Selsfield Common, once a beacon-station, 
 views from, 256. 
 
 Series, near Lewes, 277. 
 
 " Seven Sisters," the, between Seaford and 
 Beachy Head, 281. 
 
 Sevenoaks, route from Farningham to, 30 ; 
 town, church, almshouses, 105 ; drive to 
 Tunbridge from, no; excursion from, to 
 Wrotham and the i\loat, no; excursion 
 from, to Dartford, 113, 114. 
 
 Sevenokes, William, history of, 105. 
 
 Severndroog, taking of, commemorated, 12, 
 
 25- 
 
 Sexburga, nunnery founded by, 59; her 
 death, 64. 
 
 Shakspeare, associated with Greenwich, 5. 
 
 Sheemess, at the mouth of the Med way. 18 ; 
 steamboats for, 33 ; situation, fortifica- 
 tions, 58 ; divisions, dockyard, storehouse, 
 59 ; road from Sittingbourne to, 65. 
 
 Sheffield Place, near Lewes, 277. 
 
 Sheldwich church, 71. 
 
 Shelley, Percy B., birthplace of, 3J4. 
 
 Shellness, coastguard-station, 61. 
 
 Sheppey, the Isle of, its clay cliffs, 19 ; means 
 of transit to, ;6; earlier name, population, 
 fossils, 57, 58 ; principal places, 59, 60 ; 
 view of, 64. 
 
 Shepway Cross, courts held at, 138. 
 
 Sherborne, Bishop, lacework of, in Chichester, 
 308; tower built by, 317; house at Am- 
 berley built by, 336. 
 
 Shermanbury, Ewhurst gateway at, 264. 
 
 Shillinglee Park, lake in, 343. 
 
 Shipley, Templars' chunh at, 265. 
 
 Shirleys, the, of Wiston House, 340, 341. 
 
 SODTH. 
 
 Shooter's Hill, its site, 12'; origin of the 
 name, 24. 
 
 Shoreham Place, pictures at, 1 14. 
 
 , New, and Old, 292 ; hislorical recol- 
 lections, 292, 293; churches, 293; excur- 
 sions from, 294. 
 
 Gap, transverse fissure in the chalk, 342. 
 
 Shorncliffe, camp and barracks at, 141. 
 
 Shorne church, 32; excursion to, 49; de- 
 scribed, 54. 
 
 , jNIaister John, shrines of, 54, 55. 
 
 Shottenden Hill, Roman camp, 71. 
 
 Shove], Sir Cloudesley, his gift to Crayford 
 church, 26 ; his gift to Rortrester, 44. 
 
 Shrewsbury, Countess of, her tomb in Erith 
 church, 13. 
 
 Shulbrede, priory, ruins, the prior's chamber, 
 
 352. 
 
 Shurland, Sir Robert de, tomb of, in Minster 
 church, 59. 
 
 , manor of, in Sheppey, 60. 
 
 Sidlesham, church and village, 317. 
 
 Sidney, Sir Philip, birthplace of, l2o ; scenes 
 of his 'Arcadia,' 120, 121. 
 
 Sidneys, the, portraits of, at Penshurst, his- 
 tory of, 119, 120. 
 
 Silver Hill, on the borders of Kent and Sus- 
 sex, view from, 233. 
 
 Sittingbourne, historical recollections, church, 
 63 ; road to Shcerness, 65. 
 
 Sissinghurst, French prisoners confined in, 
 128. 
 
 Skeleton tours, xxxv. 
 
 Slaugham Place, ruins of, village and church, 
 256; carved oak staircase brought from, 
 266. 
 
 Slindon Park, Elizabethan house, fine beech- 
 trees, 326. 
 
 Slough, in Sussex, 256. 
 
 Small Hythe, chapel where drowned corpses 
 were buried, 1 50. 
 
 Smarden chmxh, curious chancel arch of, 
 
 132. 
 
 Smeeth church, with Xorman portions, 133. 
 Smith, Charlotte, residence of, 325. 
 Smith, Sir Sidney, school of, 122. 
 , Sir Thomas, his monument in Sutton 
 
 church, 29. 
 Smugglers, of Goudhurst and Hawkhurst, 
 
 2327233; of Hastings, 240; atBrede Place, 
 
 243 ; in Romney Marsh, 251 ; of Beachy 
 
 Head, 283. 
 Snargate, Early English church in, 251. 
 Snodland, 74; church at, 7;. 
 Socknersh, in Sussex, 330. 
 "Sole," Kentish meaning of, 151. 
 Somerhill, historical recollections of, 123, 
 
 124. 
 Sonnne, the, " Danes' Holes " on, compared 
 
 with English, 17. 
 Sompting, church, tower with gabled spire, 
 
 294, 295 ; fig-trees in, 296. 
 Sorbiere, his description of Kent, ix. 
 Sore Place, date of, house described, 1 1 1. 
 South Downs, the, highest point of, 258 ;
 
 376 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 SOUTH. 
 
 situation of Lewes on, 266 ; isolated mass 
 of hill on, 27 J ; sheep of, 274; battle on, 
 275 ; termination, 18} ; wooded slopes, 
 J25, J26. 
 
 South Foreland, walk to Dover by the, 214 ; 
 lighthouses on, 216. 
 
 South Park, in Kent, 122. 
 
 Southend described, 18. 
 
 Southese, church with round tower, 280. 
 
 Southover church in Lewes, tombstones of 
 the De Warrenes in, 270, 271. 
 
 Speldhurst church, built by the Duke of 
 Orleans, 229. 
 
 Spelmonden, manor now a farm-house, 127. 
 
 Spenser, the Thames described by, 2. 
 
 Spielman, Sir John, mills established by, 28. 
 
 Spring Grove, near Wye , 1 5 J. 
 
 Sprott, story from the Chronicles of, 31. 
 
 Squerries Park, nearWesterham, iij. 
 
 Standen, old timbered house in, 129. 
 
 Stane Street, the, course of, traced, ij8; 
 passing through Hardres parish, 220 ; 
 direction of its branches, J05 ; descending 
 to Bignor, J2t; Field Place on, 334; ter- 
 mini of, ih. ; Roman entrenchment, mark- 
 ing its S.W. course, 3?;. 
 
 Stanhope, Dr., buried in Lewisham church, 
 
 19- 
 
 Stanmer Park, near Brighton, 259. 
 
 Stanstead Park, 1666 acres of forest, J22. 
 
 Staplehurst, railway station, church with 
 curiously ornamented door, 1 27. 
 
 Starkeys, mansion of the, in Kent, 74. 
 
 Steamers : from London Bridge to ]Margate, 
 I ; from Hungerford Pier to Gravesend, to 
 Greenwich, Blackwall, and AV'oolwich, ib. ; 
 touching at Blackwall, 11 ; from Strood to 
 Sheemess, 56. 
 
 Stede Hall, in Kent, 94. 
 
 Stephen, King, nunnery founded by, 32 ; 
 Faversham abbey ftjunded by, 66. 
 
 St. Stephen's church, near Canterbury, Arch- 
 bishop Baldwin's College, history of the 
 manor, 188. 
 
 Steyniiig, legend of St. Cuthman, grant to 
 F&arap abbey, 541 ; St. Cuthnif.n's church, 
 old gabled house, retiring of the sea from, 
 
 342- 
 Stilicho, fortifications of, at Richborough, 
 
 206. 
 Stockbury church, its cai-vings, 6j. 
 Stoke, North and South, in Sussex, British 
 
 canoes dug up, 304. 
 Down, circular excavations at the foot 
 
 of, 321, 322. 
 Stonar, the site of, 2C59. 
 Stone, the church of, described, its antiquity, 
 
 14. 
 
 , Brito-Roman altar in the vicarage, 250. 
 
 Stone End, in Sussex, St. Crispin's tomb in, 
 
 252. 
 Stone-grave Field, 7;. 
 Stonewell Park, near Chiddingstone, 117. 
 Stour, the, a source of, 9; ; railway passing 
 
 through the valley of, 152 ; its pike, 153 ; 
 
 TAi'PlNGTON. 
 
 island formed by, at Canterbury, 159; re- 
 ligious house on, 186; mouth of, 192; 
 windings of, below Sandwich, 203 ; path 
 skirting, 206 ; ruined town on the bank 
 of, 209. 
 Stour, the Lesser, places named from, 217; 
 
 navigation, skirmish fought on, 219. 
 Stopham, interesting church at, 335. 
 
 Stowting church, Perpendicular, glass in, 
 138; skeletons found near, 139. 
 
 Stratford, the abbey of, its works on the 
 Thames, 12. 
 
 Street Place, hiding-place in, 258. 
 
 Well, spring at, 95. 
 
 Strombolo, or Stromballen, found on the 
 coast of Sussex, 263. 
 
 Strood, a railway station, history of the 
 church and manor, }} ; coaches from, to 
 Canterbury, 61. 
 
 Studfall castle, a castrum near Lymne. de- 
 scribed, 137; causes of its injuries, 138. 
 
 Sturry, road from, to Heme Bay, view from 
 the hill, 189 ; chiirch and manor, 191. 
 
 Sugarloaf Hill, near Folkestone, 141. 
 
 Sullington, in Sussex, 340. 
 
 Summerley, Felix, excursion to Erith de- 
 scribed by, 13 ; view from Plumstead 
 church, 2;. 
 
 Suudridge church. Place forfeited in Maiy's 
 reign, 112. 
 
 .Sussex, extent and history, xix; antiquities, 
 xxii ; produce and manufactures, xxiv ; 
 geology and traveller's view, xxviii ; ske- 
 leton tours, XXXV ; iron-furnaces of, 228- 
 23;; martello towers, 252; peculiar use of 
 its iron, 255 ; picture of life in, in old times, 
 257, 258 ; carp and the golden pippin intro- 
 duced into, 258 ; first iron cannon cast in, 
 278 ; the calculator of, ib. ; popular sayings, 
 280 ; figs introduced into, 296, 297 ; ety- 
 mology of the termination " ing,' ' 298 ; 
 ironstone fields in, 327 ; pedestrian excur- 
 sions in, 329 ; meaning of brook, 336 ; 
 ironstone of, 343. 
 
 Sutton, Norman church at, manor, 215. 
 
 Sutton-at-IIone, its church, 29. 
 
 Sutton Barn, Roman remains at, 63. 
 
 Sutton Hill, view from, 32;. 
 
 Sutton Place, history of, 29. 
 
 Sutton Valence, ruins of a castle at, iji. 
 
 Surrenden Dering, fine views from, 131 ; the 
 Dering family, 132. 
 
 Swale, the, dividing Sheppey from the main- 
 land, 19 ; navigable in old times, 58. 
 
 Swanborough, old fann-house in Sussex, 274. 
 
 Suanscombe, the village of, 14 ; early tradi- 
 tions connected with, 30 ; architecture, 
 history of the church, 31. 
 
 Swingfield Minnis, excursion to. Hospitallers' 
 preceptory, 142. 
 
 Tankerton Tower, near Whitstable, 187. 
 Tappington, old manor-house of, 220.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 377 
 
 TARRING, 
 
 Tarring, church with fine spire, archiepisco- 
 pal palace, 296; fig orchard, 297. 
 
 Telegraph, submarine, the first undertaken, 
 i;o. 
 
 Templars, Knights, manor and preceptory of , 
 at Strood, jj; commandery of, at Swing- 
 field Minnis, 142; grant ofWilliam Peve- 
 relle to, 224 ; grant of Sliipley church to, 
 265 ; grant of Sompting, 295. 
 
 Temple, Sir William, his school and tutor, 
 121. 
 
 Tenham, its fmit gardens, 66. 
 
 Tenterden, road to, church with fine tower, 
 129 ; legend of its building, district of, ijo. 
 
 Teston, bridge over the Medway at, 126. 
 
 Tevington, near Eastbourne, 282. 
 
 Thames, the, steamers on, i ; navigation of, 
 I, 2; docks, ;; joined by the Lea, 11; 
 ancient embankments raising its level, 12 ; 
 Fiddler's IJeach, 14; Dod's driftway, 16; its 
 width and depth at Gravesend, I'j ; forded 
 by Aulus Plautins, 18 ; oyster fisheries, 
 ib.; floating light at its mouth, ig; 
 breadth of tideway at its mouth, ib. ; 
 joined by the Dareut, 27. 
 
 Thanet, the Isle of, country described, 194 ; 
 customs of the people, 19; ; meeting of 
 Augustine and Ethelbert, ib. ; view from 
 the hills of, 196; highest ground in, 199. 
 
 Tlianet, the Earls of, burial-place of, 61 ; 
 their cradle, 244. 
 
 Thanington, church of, rude Early English, 
 158. 
 
 Theobald, birthplace of, 6j. 
 
 Thomas, St., well, in Canterbury, 179. 
 
 Thorne, near I'amsgate, 197. 
 
 , story from the Clu'onicles of, jr. 
 
 Thornhill, Sir .lames, ceilings at Greenwich 
 painted by, 7, 8. 
 
 , Lady Joanna, charity scliool of, 15J. 
 
 Three Bridges, branch railways from, 254. 
 
 Thunor's Leap, in Thanet, 194. 
 
 Thurnham Castle, built of rough flint, 91. 
 
 Ticehurst, village and church, old houses, 
 origin of the name, 2jo. 
 
 Tilbury, fortifications at, 16, 17. 
 rilgate Forest, a portion of Worth, rare 
 lichen in, 254, 255. 
 
 Tillingham, the, share of, in forming Rye 
 harbour, 248. 
 
 Tillington church, near Petworth, J50. 
 
 Tindal, Nicholas, burial-place of, 9, 
 
 Tong Castle, its site, Saxon traditions of, 65. 
 
 Torrington, Lord, sea-fight of, 284. 
 
 Tortington church and priory, J04. 
 
 Tovil, a hamlet near Maidstone, 82. 
 
 Treyford, barrows at, ;22. 
 
 Trinity Boaril, the, origin and history of, 4. 
 
 Trotton, manor-house of the Camois, and 
 church, J 52. 
 
 Tufton Place, a farm-bouse, 244. 
 
 Tumuli : in the Isle of Sheppey, 58 ; mound 
 of Tong Castle, 65 ; Roman barrow, near 
 Holborough, 74 ; conical hillock near Ad- 
 dington, 89 ; large unexplored, at Ware 
 [_Kent 4' Sussex.^ 
 
 VINEYARD. 
 
 Street, 91 ; near Folkestone, 141 ; Julaber's 
 grave, 155 ; onChartham Downs, i;8; two 
 at Hackendown Banks, 201 ; in Bishops- 
 bourne, 219; on Barham Downs, 221. 
 
 Tumuli in Sussex .- on the South Downs, 274 ; 
 on the Downs near Beachy Head, 284 ; bar- 
 rows in Kingly Bottom, j2i ; the Devil's 
 Jumps, J 22 ; on Bury Hill, 526. 
 
 Tunliridge, situation of the town, grammar 
 school, church, 122; castle described, his- 
 tory of its lords, 1 13 ; country from, to 
 Paddock's AVood, 124. 
 
 Wells, season for, situation of, 22; ; dis- 
 covery and establishment of, apochrj-phal 
 origin of the spring, 226; celebrities of, 
 commons and rocks, 227 ; drives from, 228 ; 
 excursions from, 2jo. 
 
 Tunifurd, ruined mansion at, i-;8. 
 
 Tunnel, the Abbot's Cliff, near Dover, 14J ; 
 piercing the South Downs, 259. 
 
 Tunstall church, monuments in, 64. 
 
 Turner's Hill, in Sussex, 527. 
 
 Twinebam, church Ijuilt of brick in, 257. 
 
 Twysden, Sir Roger, residence, burial-place 
 of, 125. 
 
 T}-e House, 256. 
 
 Tyler, Wat, his encampment on Blackheath, 
 20 ; the village of, 28. 
 
 u. 
 
 Uckfield, scenery of, 278. 
 
 Udimore, traditionary etymology of, 24J. 
 
 Up Park, beech-trees" in, J22. 
 
 Up-\\'altham, church, pictm'esque country, 
 
 32J. 
 Upchurch, its architecture and history, 61 ; 
 
 marshes, Roman' potteries, 62. 
 Upnor Castle, date of its erection, 57. 
 Upper Hardres, chiuxh, Early English, 219. 
 Upper AValmer, church, Duke's House in, 
 
 214. 
 Ursula Lodge, 27. 
 
 V. 
 
 'Vagniaca;, possible site of, 78. 
 ■\^ale, Mascall, near North Cray, 26. 
 Vanbrugh, Sir John, dining-hall decorated 
 
 by, 7 ; houses built by, on Blackheath, 20. 
 Vandevelde, fine picture of the " Golden 
 
 Devil" by, 11. 
 ■Vandyke, liis summer residence in England, 
 
 Venetians, the, inventors of the frigate, 5. 
 Verdley Castle, ruins near Farnhurst, J52. 
 Viaduct, of Ford Valley, 139 ; over the 
 
 Ouse, 256. 
 Victualling Offices, at Deptford, 4. 
 Vineyard of Chart, iji.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 WADHURST. 
 
 w. 
 
 Wadhurst, iron grave-slabs in the church- 
 yard, 2JO. 
 
 AVakeluirst Place, rebuilt by a Culpeper in 
 1590, 255. 
 
 Waldershare Park, fine view from, 22}. 
 
 Waldron, in Sussex, l-i<) ; old niansion-liouses 
 in the jmrish of, jjo- 
 
 Waller, the beeches of Penshurst, 121. 
 
 Waller, his siege of Arundel, 299 ; of Chi- 
 chester, J06 ; castles destroyed by, 244. 
 
 Walloons, settling in Sussex, 250. 
 
 Walmer, lower and upper towns, 210; hos- 
 pital, barracks, historical memorials, 211. 
 
 Walpole, Horace, first visit of, to Greenwich, 
 9 ; his description of Leeds Castle, 91, 
 92 ; Linton Place described by, 95 ; des- 
 cribes Knole, 106; the park, 109; "pil- 
 grimage" to Summer Hill, 124; his praise 
 of J\lereworth, 12;, 126; "daughter of 
 Strawberry," 218 ; voyage of discove:-y in 
 Sussex, 2J_?; visit to Hurstmoncoux, 286. 
 
 Wantsome, strait between the mainland 
 and 'I'hanet, 192; change in the, since 
 Bede's time, 194. 
 
 ^Varbleton, ruins of an Augustinian priory, 
 church, no- 
 
 Ware Street, tumulus at, gr. 
 
 Warham, Archbisho)i, briilge erected by, 54 ; 
 palace rebuilt b,y, 114; gift of, to Krasmus, 
 ij; ; monument of, in Canterbury, 169. 
 
 Warlewast, Bp., foundation of, at Bosham, 
 
 Warner, Bp., hospital founded by, 99. 
 Wamham Court, In Sussex, large pond near, 
 
 Warrenes, Pe, the architecture of, 267 ; 
 coffins and tombs, 269, 270. 
 
 Washington, in Sussex, 540. 
 
 Watering-places, tbe two most ancient in 
 England, 225. 
 
 ^Vateringbur}^ village rebuilt, church with 
 monument of Sir Oliver Styh-, 125. 
 
 Watling Street, crossing Blackheath, 20; 
 battle fought by the Britons on, 26; name 
 given to, at Dartford, 27 ; opening into the 
 valley of the Darent, jo ; railroad follow- 
 ing the line of, ji ; crossing the Medway, 
 3;; pilgrim murdered on, j8; crossing 
 Cobliam Park, 54 ; road to Canterbury fol- 
 lowing, 61 ; site of Tong Castle on, 65 ; 
 royal "villa" on, 66; direction of, from 
 Blackheath, 102 ; bordering the sea, 208 ; 
 routes of its two branches, 217; on Bar- 
 ham Downs, 220. 
 
 AVatson, George, the Sussex calculator, birth- 
 place of, 278. 
 
 Weal<i, the, of Kent described, 129; fossils of, 
 255; old families in, ironstone of, 345. 
 
 Weaver, date fixed by, for Erith rectory, 
 I?. 
 
 AVeldon, Sir Anthony, his monument in 
 Swanscombe church, }i. 1 
 
 Hospitallers' pre- 
 of Richard de la 
 
 WILMINGTON. 
 
 Well, ruined chapel of, 218. 
 
 AVell lluuse, near Nortbiam, 243. 
 
 Welling, uiide derivalur, 24. 
 
 Wellington, the Duke of, scene of his death, 
 
 2ir ; memorial of, at firighton, 26t. 
 Werburgh, St., of Mercia, the prayers of, 48. 
 West, alto-relievos by, at Greenwich, 7. 
 
 Dean, old parsonage house at, 281. 
 
 Deati Park, Roman remains found in, 
 
 SSi- 
 
 Farlcigh, in Kent, 126. 
 
 Griiistead fluirch, wooden porch, House 
 
 visited by Pope, 264, 26;. 
 
 Hampnett, Pearly English church, Place, 
 
 now a poors-house, 517- 
 
 Hoathly, iron grave-slabs at, mass of 
 
 nicely poised rock near, 255. 
 
 , or Town, Mailing, I 
 
 Peckham, Knigbls 
 
 ceptory In, 125. 
 
 Wittering, miracle 
 
 Wycb, church, J17. 
 
 Westfield church, in Sussex, 242. 
 
 Westham, church built at different periods, 
 297. 
 
 Westenhanger, excursion from, fortified 
 manor, old walnut-trees, IJ4; its history, 
 Rosamond's tower, ij; ; Roman road pass- 
 ing, ij8. 
 
 Westwell, fine stained glass in the church, 
 witchcraft story connected with, 154. 
 
 White, Gilbert, village in Sussex frequented 
 by, 27J. 
 
 Hart Hill, in Sussex, view from, 248. 
 
 Hawk Hill, near Brighton, camp on, 26^. 
 
 Horse Wood, 89. 
 
 AVbitebait, a distinct species, 11. 
 Wliitleychurch, E. E., with central tower, 34J. 
 Whitstable, its oyster fishery, 19, 187. 
 Wigsell, in Sussex, 254. 
 
 Wilfred, monastery founded by, J15. 
 
 Willement, Thomas, church repaired and 
 decorated by, 70 ; stained glass by, in 
 Bromley church, 99; windows in West- 
 well church releaded by, 154; windows in 
 a chapel in Canterbury, 18?; window in 
 Ash church, 208; memorial window at 
 Cbichester, 310. 
 
 Willesborough church, stone seats in, 1J3. 
 
 William, .St., of Rochester, story of, j8. 
 
 of Wykeham, buildings of, at Leeds 
 
 castle, 9J ; canonry, 2J9. 
 
 of Sens, architect of Canterbury Cathe- 
 dral, 161 ; his fall from the clerestory wall, 
 165. 
 
 I., landing of, at Pevensey, 290, 291. 
 
 111., house in Kent visited by, 201. 
 
 • and Mary, associated with Greenwich, 
 
 6. 
 
 IV., bust given by, to Greenwich Hos- 
 
 l)ital, 9. 
 
 Wilmington, its cherry-gardens, its ancient 
 proprietors, 28. 
 
 Wilmington, alien priory at, Well Holes, 
 " Long Alan " of, 282.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 379 
 
 WINCnELSEA. 
 
 AViiichelsea, site of Old, inundations, plan of 
 New, 245 ; its ancient trade and prosperity, 
 passages of liislor.f, 246; cburch of St. 
 Thomas, 246, 247 ; the Friary, gates, 247 ; 
 narrow escape of Edward I. in, 248. 
 
 , estate of the Earls of, 154. 
 
 Windham, church and college at, story of 
 
 ^ penance connected with, 209. 
 
 Wisborough Green, consecrated to Woden, 
 
 US- 
 
 Wiston, fine scenery of the parish. House 
 
 Elizabethan, historj' of the Shirleys, J40 ; 
 
 Shirley nioiniments in the church, 541. 
 Withersden, St. Eustace's Well at, 15J. 
 Withyam, church struck by lightning at, 
 
 Dorset monuments, 328. 
 Woden sborough, Saxon sepulchral remains 
 
 found at, 2og. 
 Wolf, General, grave of, 10; residence on 
 
 Blackheath, 20 ; birthplace, 11;. 
 Wolsey, Cardinal, his apjilication of the 
 
 revenues of Lesnes Abbey, 25. 
 Wolstanbury Hill, camp on, 259. 
 Womenswould, in Kent, 222. 
 Woodchiirch, in the AVeald of Sussex, church 
 
 E. E., 25}. 
 . , Simon de, " Malleus Scotoruni," grave 
 
 of, 25J. 
 AVoodgate railway station, near Bognor, 304. 
 AVoodstuclv Park, 64. 
 Woolbeding. in Sussex, 552. 
 AVoollet, the engraver, birthplace of, 79. 
 Woolwich, transit from London to, i ; ships 
 
 built at, II ; remarkable objects to be seen 
 
 at, 12; public buildings, 22-24. 
 Wootton Court, scat of Sir Egerton Brydges, 
 
 225. 
 Warmsell Churcli, in Kent, 94 
 
 YOKES. 
 
 Worth, church, the only perfect example of 
 Anglo-Saxon building, probable date of, 
 254 ; forest, the landscape in, sandstone 
 of, 255. 
 
 Worthing, dates its importance since 1800, 
 294 ; excursions from, 296. 
 
 Wotton, Sir Henry, birthplace of, i^i. 
 
 WouUlhaiu, church and village, 74. 
 
 AVreii, Sir Christopher, designs of, for Green- 
 wich, 6, 7 ; a design of, followed in the 
 Royal Naval School, 115; houses in Chi- 
 chester attributed to, iij. 
 
 AVrinsted Court, in Kent, 94. 
 
 AV'rotham, once the site of an archiepiscopal 
 palace, view from. Hill, iir. 
 
 Wyatt, Sir Henry, date of his succession to 
 Allington, 83. 
 
 , Sir Thomas, the poet, birthplace of, 84 ; 
 
 grave, 85. 
 
 , Sir Thomas, his attack on Cowling 
 
 Castle, jj ; grant of Aylesford Friary to, 
 76 ; place of the breaking out of his rebel- 
 lion, 79 ; manors of, 84. 
 
 Wych, Uichard de la, miracle of, 317. 
 
 Wye, church and college of, 15J. 
 
 Yalding, situation of, 124. 
 
 Yaptoii, in Sussex, J04. 
 
 Yarrell, Mr., decision of, with regard 
 
 whitebait, 11. 
 Yenlade, a mouth of the Wantsome, 194. 
 Yew-tree, large, at Bradbourne, 1J4; in 
 
 Crowhurst churchyard, 241 ; 20 feet in 
 
 girth, in Wilmingiun churchyard, 282; 
 
 group, at Bowhill, }ii. 
 Yokes Court, in Kent, 126. 
 
 to 
 
 THE END. 
 
 LOHPON: FlUNTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFOKD STREET, 
 AND CUAEIKG CROSS.
 
 MURRAY^S 
 
 HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 1858. 
 
 The great advantage of this medium of Advertising over all others for those who are 
 desirous of communicating infiirmation to Travellers can scarcely be questioned, as it, 
 enables Steam, Railway, and other Public Companies, Landlords of Inns, Tradesmen, and 
 others, to bring under the immediate notice of the great mass of English and American 
 Tourists who resort to France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, 
 Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Russia, the East, and other parts of the world every Season, in 
 the most direct way, the various merits of their Railways, Steamers, Hotels, Taverns, Articles 
 of Merchandise, Works of Art, and such other infurniation as they may desire to make 
 known. Instead of being limited to the casual publicity of a Daily, Weekly, or Monthly 
 Periodical, The Handbook Advertiser has the additional merit of being displaj'ed, for the 
 entire year, in a permanent work of interest and of perpetual reference by the very class of 
 persons for whom it is specially intended. 
 
 Annual Circulation, 12,000. 
 
 Advertisements must be paid in advance and sent to the Publisher's hy2Qth of April in each 
 year. The Charges are— A Page, 4Z. Half-page, 2J. 2s. A Column, 2i.2«. Haifa Column, IJ. 2s. 
 
 INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 GERMANY. 
 
 Berlin. — Harsch's Glass Wai-ehouse .13 
 
 Bonn. — Golden Star Hotel . . .19 
 
 Carlsbad. — Wolf's Glass Manufactory 11 
 
 Cologne. — Farina's Eau de Coloi,aie . 10 
 
 Dresden. — Magazine of Fine Arts .11 
 
 Frankfort. — Bing's Manufactory . 8 
 
 Tacchi's Glass Warehouse 9 
 
 Roman Emperor Hotel. 12 
 
 Bohler's Manufactory of 
 
 Staghorn . . . IG, 17 
 
 Munich. — Wimmer's Magazine . . 7 
 
 Prague and Vienna. — Ilofmann's Glass 
 
 Manufactory 11 
 
 Vienna. — Lobmeyr's Glass Manufactory 12 
 
 FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, & ITALY. 
 
 BuiENZ. — Grossraaun's Wood Sculpture 
 Florence. — Bianobini's Mosaic 
 Leghorn. — Micali's Marble Works 
 Lucerne. — English Hotel . 
 Nice. — How's English Warehouse 
 
 Lattes, General Agent 
 Plsa. — Huguet and Van Lint, Sculptors 
 Veytaux. — Pension Masson . . 
 Zurich. — Hotel Belle Vue . 
 Kerez, Chemist . 
 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 Custom House Agents — McCracken 
 
 Cary's Telescope 
 
 Mai/, 1858. 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 21 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 31 
 
 24 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 Mechl's Dressing Cases 
 Argus Life Assurance . 
 National Bank of Scotland 
 Thimm, Foreign Bookseller 
 Spiers' Ornamental Manufactures 
 Black's Guide Books . . 
 Passport .Agency Office 
 Royal Insurance Office . 
 Pelican Life Insurance 
 London and Westminster Bank 
 Locock's Pulmonic Wafers 
 Athenaeum .... 
 
 Blackwood's Maps . 
 Lavin's Cornish Museum 
 Sir Walter Scott's Works . 
 Southgate's Portmanteaus . 
 South-Eastern Railway . 
 Society of Swiss Couriers . 
 Tennant, Geologist 
 Heal's Bedsteads , 
 i Stanford, Mapseller 
 Rowland's Perfumery 
 Galignani's Paris Guide 
 Von Wegnern, German Teache 
 Works on the Fine Arts . 
 Sunset any Hour . . 
 Mudie's Library 
 Passport Agency Office 
 Steam to California, &c. 
 Railway Guide-books . . 
 Lee and Carter's Guide Depot 
 
 6 
 
 . 12 
 . 13 
 . 14 
 . 14 
 . 14 
 . 15 
 . 18 
 . 20 
 . 21 
 . 21 
 . 22 
 . 22 
 . 23 
 . 24 
 . 25 
 . 26 
 . 27 
 . 28 
 . 28 
 . 29 
 . 30 
 . 31 
 . 31 
 . 31 
 . 32 
 . 33 
 . 33 
 .33 
 . 33 
 34, 35 
 . 36
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 BRITISH CUSTOMS DUTIES. 
 
 London, January 1, 1858. 
 
 MESSRS. J. & R. MCCRACKEN, 
 
 7, OLD JEWRY, LONDON, 
 
 IMPORTERS OF FOREIGN WINES, 
 
 And Agents to Messrs. A. DELGADO and SON, of Cadiz, 
 
 AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY, 
 AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART, 
 
 Sole Agents of Mr. J. M. FARINA, vis-a-vis la Place Juliers, Cologne, 
 
 And Agents generally for the Reception and Shipment of ^Y'orks of Art, Baggage, &c., 
 
 FROM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD, 
 
 Return their sincere acknowledgments to | British Artists resident abroad, having 
 the Nobility and Gentry for the liberal pa- ! occasion to send home their works for Ex- 
 
 tronage liitherto confeiTed on them. They 
 hope, by THK MODERATION OF THEIR 
 CHARGES, and their imremitting care in 
 passing through the CUSTOM-HOUSE Pro- 
 perty confided to thern, to merit a conti- 
 nuance of the favours they have heretofore 
 
 hibition, or to be passed by the Academy, 
 will find it advantageous to address them to 
 the care of Messrs. J. & R. M'C, whose 
 appointment enables them to offer every 
 facility. 
 Parties favouring J. & R. M'C. with Con- 
 
 enjoyed. Their establishment comprises DRY j signments are requested to be particular 
 
 AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, where 
 Works of Art and all descriptions of Property 
 can be kept durhig the Owner's absence, at 
 most modei'ate rates of rent. 
 
 J. & R. M'C. undertake to execute Commis- 
 sions for the purchase of Pictures, Statuary 
 in Marble and Alabaster, Bronzes, &c., being 
 
 in having the Bills of Lading sent to them 
 DIRECr by post, and also to forward their 
 Keys with the Packages, as all Goods MUST 
 BE EXAMINED immediately on arrival. 
 
 J. & R. M'C. keep Marsala Wines of first 
 quality, also Port, and Messrs. A. Delgado 
 and Son's Sherry and Amontillado Wines ; 
 
 indirect correspondence with Artists, Agents, I and are general Importers of French and 
 and Bankers throughout the Continent. ' other Foreign Wines. 
 
 Packages sent, by Steamers or othervrise, to Southampton and Liverpool, also attended to; hut 
 all Letters of Adoice and Bills of Lading to be addressed to 1, Old Jewry, London. 
 
 LIST OF DUTIES 
 
 NOW PAYABLE IN LONDON UPON THE IMPORTATION OF WORKS OF ART, 
 
 CURIOSITIES, ETC., FROM THE CONTINENT. 
 
 The following i^rticles are AIiZi F^^SB OF BTTTT. 
 
 Alabaster and Maeble. 
 
 Amber, JIanufactures of. 
 
 Anchovies. 
 
 Agates and Cornelians, unset. 
 
 Books, of editions printed prior to 1801. 
 
 Bronze Works of Art (antiques and ori- 
 ginal works only). 
 
 Bullion, Coins and Medals of all kinds, 
 and battered Plate. 
 
 Cambrics, Lawns, Damask and Diapers of 
 Linen, or Linen and Cotton. 
 
 Cameos, 7iot set. 
 
 Carriages of all sorts. 
 
 Catlings, and Harp Strings, silvered or not. 
 
 Casts of Busts, Statues, or Figures. 
 Coral, whole, polished, unpolished, and 
 
 fragments. 
 Cotton, Manufactures of, «o? being articles 
 
 wholly or in part made up. 
 Diamonds, Emeralds, Pearls, and other 
 
 Precious Stones, not set. 
 Flower Roots. 
 Frames for Pictures, Prints, Drawings, 
 
 and Mirrors. 
 Furs and Skins, and Articles thereof. 
 Glass, all Plate, Cast or Rolled Glass. 
 
 Paintings on Cilass. 
 
 Beads and Bugles.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 nCcCRACSSM-'S IiIST 
 
 Glass Bottles, Wine Glasses, ;ind Tumblers, 
 and all white flint and common green- 
 glass goods, not being cut or orna- 
 mented. 
 
 Linen Manufactures, not being articles 
 •wholly or in part made up. 
 
 Lay Figures, imported by British Artists 
 for their own use. 
 
 Magna Grecia Ware, and Antique Earthen 
 Vases. 
 
 Manuscripts. 
 
 Maps and Charts, and parts thereof. 
 
 Mineral Waters. 
 
 Models of Cork and Wood. 
 
 Olites and Olive Oil. 
 
 On the folloviringr ilrticles the Suty is 5 per cent, ad valorem. 
 
 or 3>xrTIES— continued. 
 
 Painters' Colours, Brushes, Pencils, and 
 
 Crayons. 
 Pictures. 
 
 Plants and Trees, alive. 
 Seeds. 
 Sausages. 
 Specimens of Natural History, Minerals, 
 
 Fossils, and Ores. 
 Stone, all Sculpture and -Articles of Stone, 
 
 Alabaster, and Slarble. 
 Sulphur Impressions, or Casts. 
 Telescopes. 
 Tiles. 
 Vases, Ancient, not of Stone or Marble. 
 
 Cashmere Shawls, and all Articles of 
 
 Goats' Hair or Wool. 
 Cotton Articles, wholly or in part made up. 
 
 Linen Articles, wholly or in part made up. 
 Woollen Articles, wholly or in part 
 made up. 
 
 On the following^ Articles the 3>uty is lO per cent, ad valorem. 
 
 Boxes of all sorts. 
 
 Egyptian, and all other Antiquities. 
 Embroidery and Needlework. 
 Furniture of all kinds. 
 Jewellery, and all Jewels set. 
 Lace made by hand. 
 
 Mosaic, small Ornaments for Jewellery. 
 Musical Instruments, excepting Musical 
 
 Boxes, Brass Instruments, Pianos, and 
 
 Accordions. 
 ScAGLiOLA Tables. 
 
 ARaUEBUSADE WaTER .... 
 
 Beads of Coral ..... 
 
 Crystal, Jet, and Mock Pearl . , 
 
 Books, of editions printed in and since 1 SOI . 
 
 imported under International Treaties of Copyright 
 
 (Pirated Editiuns of Eni^lish U'orks, of wliich tlie Copyright exists 
 totally proliibited.) 
 
 English, reimported (unless declared that no Drawback 
 
 was claimed on Export) 
 Brocade of Gold and Silver 
 Bronze, 1 
 
 Brass, and > all Manufactures of 
 Copper, J 
 
 Carpets and Rugs (woollen) 
 Coral Negligees 
 
 China, Porcelain, and Earthenware, all 
 Clocks, not exceeding the value of bs. each 
 
 . the gallon 
 
 £1 
 
 
 
 
 
 the Ih. 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 ditto 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 the cut. 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 ditto 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 England, 
 
 
 
 
 k 
 
 the lb. 
 
 
 
 
 
 U 
 
 ditto 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 the cwt. 10 
 
 the square yard 
 
 the lb. 
 
 . the civt. 
 
 . the dozen 
 
 exceeding 5«., and not exceeding the value of 12«. Qid. each ditto 
 
 •— ^^ exceeding \'2s. Qd., and not exceeding the value of 3/. each each 
 
 exceeding 3/., and not exceeding the value of 101. . ditto 
 
 exceeding 10/. value .... ditto 
 
 Cigars and Tobacco, manufactured (3 lbs. only allowed in a 
 
 passenger's baggage, and 5 per cent, additional) . . the lb. 
 
 Tobacco, unmanufactured (with 5 per cent, additional on the Duty) ditto 
 
 (N.B.- — Unmanufactured Tobacco cannot be imported in less quantity than 300 lbs., 
 or Cigars 80 lbs. in a Pack:u;e ; but small quantities are allowed for Private Use 
 on declaration, and payment of a Fine of Is. (id. per lb. in addition to the Duty.) 
 
 Coffee ....... the lb. 
 
 Confectionery, Sweetmeats and Succades . . . ditto 
 
 Cordials and Lisueurs . . . . .the gallon 
 
 Curtains, embroidered on Muslin or Net, called Swiss Curtains the lb. 
 Eau de Cologne, in long flasks .... the flask 
 
 in any other description of bottles . . the gallon 
 
 10 
 4 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 3 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 B
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 IV[cCRACB:x:]n''S XiIST of duties— continued. 
 
 Flowers, Artificial, the cubic foot as packed . , . . £0 12 
 Glass, Flint, Cut, Coloured, and Fancy Ornamental Glass, of 
 
 whatever kind ...... the cnrt. 10 
 
 Gloves, of Leather (and 5 per cent, additional) . the dozen pair 3 6 
 
 LAcauEKED and Japanned Wares . . . .the cwt. 10 
 
 JIaccaroni and Vermicelli ..... ditto 010 
 
 Naples Soap ...... ditto 008 
 
 Perfcmkry . . . . . . the lb. 2 
 
 Perfumed Spirits . . . . . , the gallon 10 
 
 Paper hangings, Flock Paper, and Paper printed, painted, or stained <//<" /ft. 3 
 
 Pianofortes, horizontal grand .... each 300 
 
 upright and square .... ditto 200 
 
 Plate, of Gold ..... the oz. troy 1 1 
 
 of Silver, gilt or ungilt .... ditto 018 
 
 Prints and Drawings, single or bound, plain or coloured . the /b. S 
 
 Silk, Millinery, Turbans or Caps .... each 036 
 
 Hats or Bonnets .... ditto 070 
 
 Dresses ..... ditto 1 10 
 
 Hangings, and other Manufactures of Silk . the lOOl. value 15 
 
 Velvets, plain or figured .... the lb. ^ 
 
 Tea ....... ditto 015 
 
 Toys and Turnery . .... the cubic foot 004 
 
 Wine in Casks or Bottles (in bottles 6 to the gal., & 5 percent, add.) the gal. 5 6 
 
 Spirits in Cask or Bottle ..... ditto lo 
 
 No Cask can be imported of less contents than 24 Gallons. 
 
 THEIR PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS ARE AT 
 
 CALAIS Messrs. Ciiartier, Mout, Sc Vogue. Messrs. Isaac Vftal & Fils. 
 
 BOULOGNE S. M. . . Messr.s.CHAKTiER,MoRy,& Vogue. Mr.H.SiRE. Mr.C.QuETTiEK. 
 , ]\Ir. M. Chrnue, Packer, Paie Croix Petits Chajups, No. 24. 
 
 PARIS J Mr. .J. Kleinfelder, .38, Rue Lafayette. 
 
 Im. M. Hofmann, 58, Rue Hauteville. 
 
 HAVRE Messrs. P. r)E\OT & Co. 
 
 HONFLEUR Mr. J. Wagneu. 
 
 MARSFILLFS -J ^^'^^■'^''s- Horace Bouchet & Co. Messrs. Claude Clkrc & Co. 
 
 ^ I Mr. Philigret, 8, Rue SuEfreu. 
 
 BAGNERES DE BI-, 
 
 GORRE (Hautes J. Mr. Leon Geruzet, Marble Works. 
 
 Pyrenees) ) 
 
 PAiJ Mr. Merillon Aine. 
 
 KnTfnFATTY ^ '^^'"' I^EON Geruzet, 44, AUdes de Toumy. 
 
 "" ^ ^ jjj. -^^^^ Sansot, FfLS, Hotel des Princes et de la Paix. 
 
 GIBRALTAR Messrs. Archbold, Johnston, & Powers. Messrs. Turner k Co. 
 
 LLSBON Mr. Arthur Van Zeller, Renin. & Orient. St. Nav. Co.'s Offices. 
 
 SFVILI E i ^^^' •^°^''^^' ^- Williams, British Vice-Consulate. 
 
 ■' \ r>on Juan Anto. Bai lly. 
 
 MALAGA Mr. W. P. Marks, British Consul. 
 
 f^iprj' ( Messrs. A. Lacroix & Co., British Consulate. Mr. T. W. How. 
 
 ^ ( Messrs. Avigdor AiNfi & Fils. Mr. Cii. Giordan. 
 
 rv^nx ( Messrs. GiBBS & Co. Sig. G. Loleo, Croce di Malta. 
 
 ^ '^^ I Mr. Brown, Jun., British Vice-Consul. Gio. Vionolo & Fig". 
 
 TUTT » -vr i Messrs. Buffet & Beruto, Piazzale di S. Sepolcro, No. 3176. 
 
 "^'"^'^ \ Messrs. B.iambilla. 
 
 CARRARA Sig. F. Bienaijie, Sculptor. Mr. Vincenzo LrvY, Sculptor. 
 
 {Messrs. W. Maobean & Co. Messrs. Henderson Brothers. 
 Messrs. Thomas Pate & Sons. Messrs. Maquay, Pakenham, 
 S: Smtth. Messrs. GiAco. Micali & FiGo. Sculptors in Alabaster 
 and Marble. Mr. M. Ristori. Mr. Joseph Guano." Messrs. 
 G. Galliani & Co. Mr. Ulisse Cotkeman. 
 PISA Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. 
 
 I Messrs. EMMle. Fenzi & Co. Messrs. Plowden & French. Messrs. 
 Maqday & Pakenham. Mr. E. Gooddan. Mr. J. Tough. 
 Messrs. Nesti, Ciardi, & Co. Mr. Ant° pi Luigi Piacenti. 
 Mr. S. Lowe. Mr. Gaeto. Bianchini, Mosaic AVorker, opposite 
 
 '■ '^^^^'^'■^'^'^ ' the Capella de' Medici. P. Bazzanti & Fig., Sculptors, Lungo 
 
 lAriii). Heirs of F. L. PrsANi, Sculptor, No. I, sul Prato. M«ssrs. 
 Fiii. Pacetti, Picture-frame Makers, Via deli'alugio. Sig. Caklo 
 NocciOLi. Sig. LuiGi Ramacci.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 MESSRS. J. & R. MCCRACKEN'S CORRESPONDENTS-coKtinwed. 
 
 VOVriiRRA Sig. Otto. Callaj, and llessrs. G. Cuerici & Fici. • 
 
 BOLOGNA Mr. G. B. Renoli. Sig. L. Gai.li. 
 
 ANCOSA Messrs. Moore, Merellet, & Co. 
 
 Messrs. Torlonia & Co. Messrs. Freeborn & Co. Messrs. Mac- 
 
 P^-jp J BEAN & Co. Messrs. Plowden, Cholmelet, & Co. Messrs. Pa- 
 
 < kenham, Hooker, & Co. Mr. Edward Trebbi. Mr. Lligi 
 
 >■ BitANCHiNi, at the English College. 
 CIVITA VECCHIA . Messrs. 1x)WE Brothers, British Vice Consulate. Mr. T. Abata. 
 
 NAPLES Messrs. Igguldkn & Co. Messrs. W.J. Tukxer & Co. 
 
 PALKRMO Messrs. Prior, Tl-rneb, & Thomas. 
 
 M ESSINA Messrs. Cailler & Co. 
 
 CORFU Mr. J. W. Taylor. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA Messrs. Briggs & Co. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE Messrs. C. & E. Grace. Mr. Edward Lafontaine. 
 
 I Mr. Emanuel Zammit. Messrs. Josh. ] jarmanin k. Sons, 45, Strada 
 MALTA < Levaute, Mosaic Workers. Mr. Fortunato Testa. 92, Strada S'a 
 
 ' Lucia. Mr ssvs. L. Ved. L)e Cesakk & Figli. Mr. L. FbajsCalakza. 
 
 SJIYRNA Messrs. Hansos & Co. 
 
 BEYROUT Mr. Henry Heald. 
 
 ArHENS, PlRiEUS Mr. J. J. Bccherer. 
 
 SYRA Mr. A\'ilkixson, British ConsuL 
 
 I Messrs. Freres Schielin. 
 VENICE ■! Messrs. S. & A. Blumenthal S: Co. 
 
 t Mr. ].,. BovAUDi, Campo S. Fanliuo, No. 2000, rosso. 
 
 TRIESTE Messrs. Moore & Co. 
 
 OSTENO Messrs. Bach & Co. Mr. R. St. Amour. 
 
 GHENT Mr. J. Le Buyser, Dealer ui Antiquities, Marche au Beurre, 21. 
 
 BRUSSELS 
 
 A VT\iinrT>p i Messrs. F. Mack & Co., Kipdorp, No. 1149. 
 
 AA 1 w t.nf t Mr. P. Van Zeebroeck, Picture J )ealer, &c.. Rue des Recollets, 2076. 
 
 TJAi'TE-T-nAM 5 M^ssrs. Preston & Co. Messrs. S. A. Le\ ino & Co. 
 
 itui iii,i.i<Aivi I Messrs. Boutmy & Co. Messrs. C Hemmann & Co. 
 
 PAT CiPf^K i ^^^- "^' ^^* Fakixa, vis-ii-vis la Place Juliers. Messrs. G™e. TiL5!Ea 
 
 CUljUtiiN t ^ j^ ^^^_ jj|._ ^i_ggjjj Heimann, 29, Bishofsgartenstrassf. 
 
 MAYENCE Mr. G. L. Kay.seb, E.xpediteur. Mr. W. K>u.s.smann, Cabinet Maker. 
 
 / Mr. P. A. '1'a(;chi's SuC(;essor, Glass Manufacturer, Zeil. 
 FRANKFORT 0. M. < Alessis. Bing, Jun., & Co. Mr. F. Bohler, Zeil D, 17. 
 
 l Ml G. A. ZiPF, Ross Markt. 
 
 HFIDELBERG Mr. Ph. Zimmermann. Mr. M. Lieeer. 
 
 MANNHEIM Mr. Dinkelsj-eil. Blessrs. Ey.ssen & Claus. 
 
 I Mr. IIy. Wimmer, Prmtseller, Promenade St. No. 12. Messrs. May 
 MUNICH < S; Widmayer, Priutsellers. Messrs. L. Neghioli it Co. Heirs 
 
 [ of Seb. Pichler. 
 „..__,,. _„T,^ ( Mr. Paolo Galimberti, at the Red Horse, Dealer in Antiquities. 
 
 IN UKhMKtKtr ^ jjj._ jQjij. co^.,,^j, Qi^oiF, Banker and Forwarding Agent. 
 
 FURTH Mr. A. Pickert. 
 
 „.„,., j Messrs. Jean Preiswerk & Fils., Mr. Bischoff de St. Alban. 
 
 BAbLb. ^ Messrs. Schkewlin & Co. Mr. Benoit La Roche. 
 
 BERNE Mr. Albei;! Trumpy. 
 
 GENEVA Messrs. Aug. Snell & Strasse. 
 
 LAUSANNE Mr. L. Longchamfs. 
 
 INTERLACKEN Mr. J. Gkossmakn. Mr. Clement Sesti. 
 
 CONSTANCE ■» 
 
 SCHAFFHAUsEN .. ( Messrs. Zollikoffer & Hoz. 
 
 WALDSHUr •' 
 
 HAMBURG Messrs.ScHAAR&CLAUSS. Mr.G.F.RoPE. 
 
 r>D Ar-TTi.^ ) Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stern. 
 
 I'KAUU K, ^ ^jj. p CzERMAK. ditto. Mr. A. V. Lebeda, Gun Maker. 
 
 nATjT CD ATI i Mr. '1'homas Wolf, Glass Manufacturer. 
 
 CARLbBAl) ^ jyj^ ^,^i,j^ JC.NOLL, au Lion Blanc. 
 
 MARIENBAD Mr. J. T. Adler, Glass JIanulacturcr. 
 
 „ „ . ( Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, am Liigeck, No. 768. 
 
 •^ -^ jli. j(jg_ Lobmeyr, Glass Manufacturer, 940, Karnmer Strasse. 
 
 I Jlessrs. Schicklek, Brothers. 
 
 BERLIN <[ M r. Lion M. Cohn, Comni"'. Expediteur. 
 
 ( Messrs. 0. Harsch &Co., Glass Manufacturers, 67, Unter den Linden. 
 
 {Messrs. H. \V. Bas.senge & Co. Mr. C. Ieichert, Royal Porce- 
 lain Manufactoi.v Depot. Mr. J. Kreiss, Glass Manufacturer. 
 Madame Helena \V'olfsohn, Schossergasse, No. 5. 
 NEW YORK Messrs. Wilbur & Price.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 G. B I A N C H I N I, 
 
 MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES' ORNAMENTS 
 OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC, 
 
 Wo. 484:4=, VIA 1I>E» STKHI, 
 
 Opposite the lioyal Chapel of the Medici, 
 
 TNVITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where 
 may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful 
 Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables 
 and other Ornaments executed to any Design. 
 
 G. BiANCHixi's Agents in England are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old 
 Jewry, London. 
 
 BRIENZ — INTERLACKEN. 
 
 J. GHOSSMANN, 
 
 SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTUEEE OF SWISS 
 WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, 
 
 AT IM-TE^S.ACiSEK'. 
 
 TILS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof, 
 
 where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the aljove objects to be 
 
 ound in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry. 
 
 PISA. 
 
 HUaUET AND YAN LINT, 
 
 SCULPTORS IN MARBLE AND ALABASTER, 
 
 Xiung' Arno, near the Tre Sonzelle. 
 
 rpHE oldest established house in Pisa, where may be found the best assortment 
 -*- of Models of the Duomo, Baptistry, and Tower. Also Figures and other 
 local objects illustrative of the Agriculture and Customs of the country, executed 
 in the highest style of art. 
 
 Their extensive Show Rooms are always open to Visitors. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry, 
 London.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 NICE. 
 
 ENGLISH WAREHOUSE. 
 
 T. W. HOW, 
 
 WINE MERCHANT, GROCER, &c., 
 Quai du Jardin des Flantes, 
 
 (Two doors from the Hotel de France), 
 
 AVines and Teas of the choicest qualities. 
 Bass's and Allsopp's Pale and Burton Ales, 
 Stout, Porter, &c. Lemann's Biscuits, Eng- 
 lish Cheese, York Hams, Pickles, Sauces, and 
 a variety of other condiments and articles 
 too numerous to mention. 
 
 Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and 
 R. M'Ckaciven, 7, Old Jewry. 
 
 NICE 
 
 F. LATTES, 
 
 Uear the Pont Neuf, 
 
 GENERAL AGENT, 
 
 AND 
 
 AGENT FOR LETTING FURNISHED 
 APARTMENTS. 
 
 Letters addressed as above from parties 
 requiring anj' information respecting Apart- 
 ments, &c., will meet with immediate at- 
 tention. 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 HENRY WIMMEE, 
 
 SUCCESSOR TO 
 
 J. M. DE HERMANN, 
 
 PRINT AND PICTURE SELLER TO HIS MAJESTY THE KING 
 
 OF BAVARIA, 
 
 ItOYAI, a»J10MESfAI5E STKASSE, A'o. 12, 
 
 M.\GAZINE OF OBJECTS OF FINE ARTS, 
 
 PICTURES, PRINTS, DRAWINGS, AND LITHOGRAPHS, 
 
 Invites the Nobility' and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where he 
 has always on Sale an extensive collection of Pictures by Modern 
 Artists, Paintings on Glass and Porcelain, Miniatures, Drawings, En- 
 gravings, and Lithographs, the latter comprising the Complete Collec- 
 tions of the various Galleries, of which Single Cojiies may be selected. 
 
 He has also on Sale all that relates to the Fine Arts. 
 
 H. WIMMER undertakes to forward to England all purchases made 
 at his Establishment, through his Correspondents, Messrs. J. & R, 
 M'Cbacken, 7, Old Jewry, London.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 FRANKFORT O. M. 
 
 BING JUN^ AND CO. 
 
 ZEII., Bfo. 31, 
 
 (opposite the hotel de russie,) 
 
 MANUFACTORY OF ARTICLES IN STAG'S HORN. 
 
 DEPOT OF DRESDEN CHINA. 
 COPY OF THE STATUE OF ARIADNE. 
 
 *^,* All kinds of Parisian Fancy Articles. 
 
 Messrs. BING Jun. and Co. beg respectfully to invite the Public to visit tlieir 
 Establishment, where they have always on show, and for sale, a most extensive 
 Assortment of Articles in Stag's Horn, of their own manufacture ; consisting of 
 Brooches, Ear-rings, Bracelets, Pen and Pencil Holders, Seals, Inkstands, Watch- 
 stands, Snutf-boxes, Cigar-boxes, Whips, Walking-sticks, Knives, Card-cases, and 
 every description of article for the Writing and Work Table, besides Vases and 
 other ornamental objects too various to be here enumerated. 
 
 Messrs. BiNG have also the finest Copies, both in Biscuit-China and Bronze, of 
 the Statue of Ariadne, the chef-d'oeuvre of the Sculptor Dannegker, of which 
 the original is in Bethman's Museum at Frankfort 0. M. 
 
 Messrs. BiNG have likewise the Sole Depot in Frankfort of the Porcelain of 
 the Royal Manufactory of Dresden; and at their Establishment may be seen the 
 most splendid assortment of Figuies after the Ancient Models, ornamented with 
 Lace-work of the most extraordinary fineness ; likewise Dinner, Dessert, and Tea 
 Services; Plates, Vases, Candelabras, Baskets, &c. &c., in the Antique Style, 
 ornamented with flowers in relief, and the finest paintings. 
 
 Besides the above-named objects, they liave a superb assortment of Clocks, 
 Bronzes, Porcelain, and other Fancy Objects, the productions of Germany, France, 
 and England. 
 
 DEPOT OF THE VERITABLE EAU DE COLOGNE OF JEAN MARIA 
 FARINA, OF COLOGNE. 
 
 gg» Their Correspondents in London are J. and R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 FRANKFORT O. M. 
 
 P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR, 
 
 (LATE FRANCIS STEIGERWALD,) 
 
 zi<:ii> n, ^o. 17, 
 
 IBOMEMIAH FAH(DT ^LAgg AHB (C:KTSTAIL 
 
 p. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOK begs to acquaint the Tiiblic that 
 he has become the Purchaser of Mr. F. Steigerwald's Establish- 
 ment in this Town, for the Sale of Bohemian Fancy Cut Glass and 
 Crystals. 
 
 He has always an extensive and choice Assortment of the Newest 
 and most Elegant Patterns of 
 
 ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVTED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, 
 
 BOTH WHITE AND COLOUKED, 
 
 In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Articles for the Table and Toilet, 
 and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of manu- 
 facture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a continuance of 
 the favours of the Public, which the late well-known House enjoyed 
 in an eminent degree during a considerable number of years. 
 
 P. A. Tacchi's Successor has Branch Establishments during the 
 Season at 
 
 WIESBADEN AND EMS, 
 
 Where will always be found Selections of the newest Articles from his 
 principal Establishment. 
 
 His Agents in England, to whom he undertakes to forward Pur- 
 chases made of him, are Messrs. J. & li. M'Crackek, 7, Old Jewry, 
 London,
 
 10 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 COLOGNE O. RHINE. 
 
 JOHN MARIA FARINA 
 
 (OPPOSITE THE JULICH'S PLACE), 
 
 PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; 
 
 TO H. M. F. W. III., KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; 
 
 THE laNG OF HANOVER, ETC. ETC., 
 
 OF THE 
 
 ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE. 
 
 fFHE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most 
 A part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request 
 
 the attention of English travellers to the foUowhig statement : — 
 
 Since the first establishment of my house in 1709, there has never been any partner in 
 the business who did not bear the name of Farina, nor has the manufacture of a second 
 and cheaper quality of Eau de Cologne ever been attempted. Since 1828, however, 
 several inhabitants of Cologne have entered into engagements with Italians of the name of 
 Farina, and, by employing that name, have succeeded to a very great extent in foisting an 
 inferior and spurious article upon the Public. 
 
 But they have m this rivalry in trade not been satisfied with the mere usurpation of my 
 name ; the concluding phrase, "opposite the Julich's I'lacel' which had so long existed my 
 special property, was not allowed to remain in its integrity. To deceive and lead astray 
 again those of the public who are not fully conversant with the locality and circumstances, 
 the competition seized hold of the word " o2^posite," and more than once settled in my 
 immediate neighbourhood, that they might avail themselves to the full extent of the phrase 
 " opipjosite the Julich's Place." When tried before the courts, the use only of the word 
 ^' oprposite" was forbidden, which, however, has been supplied liy the word "at" or "near," 
 with the addition of the nvunber of their houses. It is true, another less fiagrant, but not 
 less deceitful invention was, that several of my imitators esUiblished the sites of their 
 manufactories in other public places of the town, to enable them to make use of the phrase 
 
 " opposite Place, or Market" on their address cards or labels, speculating, with respect 
 
 to the proper name "Jalich," on the carelessness or forge tfulncss of the consumer. I there- 
 fore beg to inform all strangers visiting Cologne that my estal>lishment, which has existed 
 since 1709, is exactly opposite the Julich's Place, forming the corner of the two streets, 
 Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Marspfurten, No. 23; and that it may be the more easily 
 recognised, I have put up the arms of England, Russia, &c. &c., in the front of my house. 
 By calling the attention of the public to this notice, I hope to check that system of unposi- 
 tion which has been so long practised towards foreigners by coachmen, valets-de-place, and 
 others, who receive bribes from the vendors of the many spurious compounds sold under my 
 name. 
 
 A new proof of the excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the 
 fact of the Jury of the Greai Exhibition in Loudon having awarded me the Prize Medal. — 
 See the Official Statement in No. 20,934, page 6, of the ' Times' of this month. 
 
 Cologne, October, 1851. J. M. FARINA, 
 
 Opposite the Julicli's Place. 
 
 *^,* Mtj Aijents in London are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry, 
 by xohoiii orders are received for me.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 11 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 MGAZINE OF ANTIQUITIES AN8 YIM. ARTS. 
 
 HELENA WOLFSOim, nke MEYER, 
 
 (SUCCESSOR OF L. MEYER AND SONS,) 
 
 5, SCHI.OSl§EI4«ASSE, 
 
 Begs respectfully to solicit the inspection of her Establishment, where she has 
 always on show and for sale a most extensive assortment of Old Saxon China, Old 
 Sevres and Japan, Antique Furniture, Bronzes, Old Lace, such as Points de 
 Bruxelles and d'Alen9on, Points de Venise, Guipure, &c. &c. Venetian, Ruby, 
 and Painted Glass, Rock Crystal, Ivory Work, Enamels, Mosaic Work, Armour, 
 Gobelins Tapestry, Fans, and many other remarkable and curious articles. 
 
 HER CORRESPONDENTS IK ENGLAND ARE 
 
 Messrs. J. & K. M'CRACKEM", 7, Old Jewry, London. 
 
 WILLIAM HOFMANN, 
 
 BOHEMIAN GLASS i/aNUFACTURER, 
 
 TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA, 
 
 Recommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in 
 Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold, 
 at the same moderate prices, at both his Establishments — 
 
 At Prague, Hotel Blue Star; at Vienna, 768, lugeck. 
 
 Agents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 7, Old Jewry. 
 Goods forwarded direct to England, America, ^-c. 
 
 LEGHORN. 
 
 CARLSBAD. 
 
 THOMAS WOLF, 
 
 MANUFACTURER OF 
 
 niACIATII MICALI AND SON, 
 
 Via Ferdinanda, No. 1230. 
 Manufactory of Marble, Alabaster, and ' ORNAMENTAL GLASS WAKES. 
 
 Scagliola Tables, and Depot of objects of \ Thomas Wolf be?s to iuform the Visitors 
 
 ??u . • . . c-o, 1 I to Carlsbad that at his Establishment will be 
 
 1 heir extensive Show-rooms are always | j.^^^^, ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ ^i^^^^^ Assortment of 
 
 open to Visitors. I ^^^ Crystal and Glass Wares of Bohemia— 
 
 THEIR AGENTS IN ENGLAND ARE j especially Table and Dessert Services — 
 
 MESSRS. J. AND R. M'CRACKEN, j ^'^ ^' ':::::!^!:,S^J^t:'^..,: 
 
 7, Old Jewry, Lmdon. Messrs. J. X: K. il'OUACKEISr, 7, Old Jewry.
 
 12 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 V I E N NA. 
 
 Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal €<lass Warehouse. 
 
 JOSEPH LOBMEYR, 
 
 GLASS MANUFACTURER, 
 
 No. 940, KARNTHNERSTRASSE, 
 
 Begs to inform Visitors to Vienna that he has considerably enlarged his Esta- 
 blishment. The most complete assortment of ail kinds of Bohemian White and 
 Coloured Crystal Glass, and of all articles in this branch of industry, in the 
 newest and most elegant style, is always on hand. The rich collections of all 
 Articles of Luxury, viz. Table, Dessert, and other Services, Vases, Candelabras, 
 Lustres, Looking-glasses, &c. &c., will, he feels assured, satisfy every visitor. 
 
 The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. — The English 
 language is spoken. 
 
 His Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'Cracken, No. 7, Old 
 Jewry, London, will execute all orders with the greatest care and attention. 
 
 Everything for the Tourist, i GARY'S improved pocket 
 
 1 TOURIST'S TELESCOPE. 
 
 DRESSING-CASKS. -At Mr. MECHI'S (_Sce ' Murray's HMidbouk.') 
 
 EsUlilishineiits, 112, Tiegent Sireet, 4, Lead- I 
 
 piiliall Street, and Crystal Palace, are EX- : Just published, 16th Edition, 
 
 HIBITED the FINEST SPECIMENS of I ^ ' ' 
 
 BlilTISH MANUFACTURES, in Dressing GOULD'S COMPAXIOX TO THE 
 Cases, \\ ork Boxes, vVrituig Cases, Dressuig n,./-,. nc^ n r\ 
 
 Bags, and other articles of utility or luxury, ! MICKuSCOPE. 
 
 suitable for presentation. A separi4s De- r> • j j t j 
 
 partment for Papier Mache Manufactures and | Kevised and Improved. 
 
 Bagatelle Tables. Table Cutlery, i;azors,Scis- i Cary, Jilathematieal and Oiitical Instru- 
 sors, Pen-knives, Strops, Paste, &c. hhipprng i ^ at i i ii a i • i\ ] r. i 
 
 orders executed. Aii extensive assortnient ! i^^"*^ ^'■'^'^er to the Admiralty and Koyal 
 of superior Hair and other Toilet Brashes. ! Military College, &e. &c., 181 , Strand. 
 
 FRANKFORT O. M. 
 
 MESSRS LOHR & ALTEN, 
 
 ritOPRIETOltS OF 
 
 THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, 
 
 Beg to recommend their House to English Travellers. 
 
 This large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate 
 superintendence of the Pi'oprietors, and newly furnished with every comfort, and 
 a new splendid Dining-room. 
 
 The " Roman Emperor" is often honoured by Royal Families and other liigh 
 personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel — 
 
 II.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WURPEMBERQ. 
 
 H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. 
 
 H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WURTEMBERG. 
 
 H.I.II. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSfRIA. &e. &c. &c. 
 
 Table-d'h6teat 1, Ifl. 30kr. Breakfast, 42kr. 
 
 „ „ 5, 2fl. IVa, 42kr. 
 
 Bed Rooms, from Ifl. to 3fl.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 13 
 
 BERLIN. 
 
 C. HARSCH & CO., 
 
 67, Unter den Linden, 
 
 FAHCY (SILASi WAIr^lEHOUSIE, 
 
 Beg to call the attention of VisiTOUS to their Extensive Assortment of 
 BOHEMIAN, BAVARIAN, AND SILESIAN GLASS, 
 
 CONSISTING OF 
 
 ARTICLES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, 
 
 OF THE NEWEST AND MOST ELEGANT PATTERNS, 
 
 Their Correspondents in London are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry. 
 
 ARGUS LIFE ASSURANCE COMPANY, 
 
 30, THROGMORTON STREET, BANK. 
 
 Chairman— THOMAS FARNCOMB, Esq., Alderman. 
 
 Deputy-Chairman— WILLIAM LEAF, Esq. 
 
 Rich. E. Arden, Esq. I Professor Hall, M.A. | Rupert l)igleby,Esq. I Jeremiah Pilcher, Esq. 
 
 Edward Bates, Esq. | J.Humpherj'.Esq.Ald. | S. W. Johnson, Esq. | Lewis Pocock, Esq. 
 
 Physician— Dr. Jeaffreson, 2, Finsbury Square. 
 
 Surgeon— W. Coulson, Esq., 2, Frederick's Place, Old Jewry. 
 
 Actuary— George Clark, Esq. 
 
 ADVANTAGES OF ASSURING 
 
 IN THIS COMPANY. 
 
 The Premiums are on the lowest scale con- 
 sistent with security. 
 
 The Assured are protected by a subscribed 
 Capital of 300,00nL, an Assurance Fund of 
 450,000?., invested on mortgage and in the 
 Government Stocks, and an income of 85,000L 
 a-year. 
 
 Premiums to assure 100^ 
 
 Whole Term. 
 
 < 
 
 One 
 Year. 
 
 Seven 
 Years. 
 
 With 
 
 Profits. 
 
 Without 
 Profits. 
 
 20 
 30 
 40 
 00 
 GO 
 
 £0 17 8 
 1 1 3 
 1 5 
 1 14 I 
 3 2 4 
 
 £0 19 9 
 I 2 7 
 1 6 9 
 1 19 10 
 
 3 17 
 
 £1 15 10 
 
 2 ft 5 
 
 3 7 
 
 4 B 8 
 
 6 12 9 
 
 £1 11 10 
 2 7 
 2 14 10 
 4 11 
 6 10 
 
 MUTUAL BRANCH. 
 
 Assurers on the Bonus System are entitled 
 at the end of five years to participate in nine- 
 teiiths, or 90 per cent., of the profits. 
 
 The profit assigned to each policy can be 
 added to the sum assured, applied in reduction 
 of the annual premium, or be received in cash. 
 
 At the tirst division a return of 20 per cent, 
 in cash on the premiums paid was declared ; 
 this will allow a reversionary increase vary- 
 ing, according to age, from 66 to 2S per cent, 
 on the premiums, or from 5 to 15 percent, on 
 the sum assun.-d. 
 
 One-half of the "Whole Term" Premium 
 may remain on credit for seven years, or one- 
 third of the Pi-emium may remain for life as 
 a deM upnu the Policy at 5 per cent., or may 
 be paid off at any time without notice. 
 
 Claims paid in one month after proofs have 
 been approved. 
 
 Loans upon approved security. 
 
 No charge for Policy stamps. 
 
 Medical attendants paid for their reports. 
 
 Persons may, in time of peace, proceed to or 
 reside in any part of Europe or British North 
 America without extra charge. 
 
 The medical officers attend every day at a 
 quarter liefore two o'clock. 
 
 E. BATES, Eciident Director.
 
 14 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 FOREIGN CREDITS AND CIRCULAR NOTES. 
 
 rTHE NATIONAL BANK OF SCOTLAND GRANT CREDITS of £10 
 -*- and upwards, availalile for Travellers, Foreign Residents, Military and Naval Officers 
 on Foreign Service, Emigrants, S:c., and also fur Business purposes, in all the principal 
 places on the CONTINENT, MKIUTEKRANEAN, MADEIRA, EASF and WEST 
 INDIES, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND, UNITED 
 STATES, CANADA, &c. &c. 
 
 These Credits may be obtained at the Head Office, and at the Glasgow and Dundee 
 Branches, or through any of the other Branches of the Bank. 
 National Bank of Scotland, Edinburgh, April, 185S. 
 
 SORRENTO. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL VILLA NAHDI, BY WILLIAM TRAMONTANO. 
 
 THIS Hotel, which has recently been greatly altered and enlarged, is beautiful!)' 
 situated on the borders of the Sea, and commands an uninterrupted and extensive view 
 of the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. 
 
 The Landlady is English, and gives her particular attention to Cleanliness and Cooking, 
 and the general comfort of Visitors. 
 
 Large and small Apartments looking on to the Bay. An excellent Table d'H6te daily 
 Baths, and Barques for C;ipri. French, English, and German spoken. Charges moderate. 
 
 FOREIGN LANGUAGES. 
 
 ORIGINAL AND COMPLETE EDITIONS OF 
 
 AHN'S FOREIGN GRAMMAES. 
 
 Ahn's Remodelled German Grammar and 
 Key, 1857, cloth, is. 6(i. ; French Grammar 
 and Key, 3rd edition, 1858, cloth, 4s. Gd.; 
 Italian Grammar and Key, 2nd edition, 1857, 
 cloth, 5s. ; Spanish Grammar and Key, cloth, 
 5s. ; Portuguese Grammar. 1857, cloth, 4s. ; 
 Swedish Grammar, 1858, cloth, 4s. ; Danish 
 Grammar, 1S58, cloth, 4s. ; Dutch Grammar, 
 clotb, 4s. ; Latin Grammar, cloth, 3s. 
 
 The method of Ahn, now of European cele- 
 brity, is most simple and rational, and is emi- 
 nently adapted for Self-tuition, for School use, 
 and for a comparative study of European 
 Languages. 
 
 FOREIGN DIALOGUES, 
 
 On an entirely new and practical plan, calcu- 
 lated to insure a rapid acquisition of Foreign 
 Languages, 12mo. cloth. German and English 
 Dialogues, by Meissner, 2s. 6(Z. ; French and 
 English ditto, by Dudevant, 2s. 6d.; Italian 
 and English ditto, by Marchezzi, 2s. 6(i. ; 
 Spanish and English ditto, by Salvo, 2s. 6d. ; 
 Sivedish by Lenstriim, Danish by Lund, each 
 2s. 6d. ; Dutch by Harlen, Portuguese by Mon- 
 teiro, each 2s. (id. ; Turkish, Russian, Eiiyli^h, 
 and French Vocabulary, for Travellers in the 
 East, 2s. Gd. 
 
 Published by Mr. Franz Thimm, Publisher 
 and Foreign Bookseller, 3, Brook Street, Gros- 
 venor Square, London; and at 32, Princess 
 Street, Manchester. 
 
 P.S.— Travellers can order these Grammars 
 and Dialogues through any Continental Book- 
 seller. 
 
 OXFORD lies on the road to Bath, 
 Bristol, Clifton, and the West of Eng- 
 land ; to Leamington, Warwick, Kenilworth, 
 Stratford-on-Avon, Jjirmingbam, Worcester, 
 Wolverhampton, Chester, Manchester, Liver- 
 pool, and the North; to Cheltenham, Glou- 
 cester, and South Wales. In its neighbour- 
 hood are Blenheim, Nuneham, and other 
 places of interest. 
 
 VISITORS TO OXFORD 
 
 (a central point for Railway Travellers) 
 are invited to inspect 
 
 SPIERS AND SON'S 
 
 ESTABLISHMENTS, 
 
 102 & 103, High St., 45 & 46 Cm-nmarJcet St., 
 and 24, Neieinnhall St., 
 
 Where will be found one of the largest and 
 most varied Stocks in the kingdom of 
 
 USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL MANUFACTURES, 
 
 Suitable for Presents, or for Remembrances 
 of Oxford. 
 
 At the Great' E.xhibition in London, of 
 1851, and in Paris, of 1855, "Honourable 
 Mention " was awarded to their Papier Mach€ 
 Manufactures ; and at the New York Exhi- 
 bition of 1853, the " Prize Medal."
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15 
 
 LACK'S GUIDE-BOOKS 
 TRAVELLING MAPS. 
 
 To Tourists in Britiiiii {^i 
 
 In noat Portable Volumes, profusely illustrated hy Maps, Charts, and Views of 
 
 the Scenery, and containing full particulars regarding Hotels, Distances, and 
 
 whatever is likely to prove useful or instructive to the Tourist. 
 
 Zngrland, 10/6. | irorksbire, 1/6 & 2/. 
 
 ^n^Iish Ziake District, 5/. Scotland, 8/6. 
 
 Do. Illustrated Edition, 7/6. Hig-hlands (Anderson's), 10/6. 
 
 "Wales, XJorth and Soutb, 5/. Trosachs, 1/6. 
 
 STortli "Wales, separately, 3/6. Staffa and Zona, 1/6, 
 
 Derby and "W"arwick sbires, Edinburgh and Environs, 2/6. 
 
 eacb 1/6 &. 2/. Glasgow^ and Environs, 2/6. 
 
 Devon and Corn^rall, 1/6 &, 2/. 
 
 Hampshire (Isle of "Wight) 1/6 Ireland, 5/. 
 
 & 2/. I Dublin, I^illarney, each 1/6. 
 
 ROAD AND RAILAVAY TRAVELLING MAPS. 
 
 Carefully constructed from tbe Maps of the Ordnance Survey and other Authorities, and 
 containing all the Roads, Railroads, Villages, Country Seats, Fishing Streams, Rivers, Lakes, 
 and Mountains, and every Topographical Information required by the Tourist on pleasure or 
 business. Mounted or printed on cloth, and neatly bound in portable cases. 
 
 England, 32 x 22i. 4/6. 
 
 English Iiakes, 19 x 14. 2/6. 
 
 "Wales, K". &.S. 14 X Hi. each 1/6. 
 
 Scotland, 32 x 22i. 4/6. Scotch Counties, each 1/. 
 
 Smaller Maps at 2s. 6d. and Is. each. 
 
 Ireland, 20 x uh 2/6. 
 
 Germany, 17 X 24. 4/6. 
 Europe, 3 feet by 4. IS/. 
 
 PROFESSOR FORBES'S WORKS OM SWITZERLAND 
 
 AND NORWAY. 
 
 THE TOUR OF MONT BLANC AND OF MONTE ROSA: 
 
 Being a I'ersonal Narrative, abridged from the Author's ' Travels in the Alps of Savoy.' 
 With a Map of the Mer do Glace of Chamouni and neighbouring district; containing im- 
 portant additions and corrections from the Author's more recent observations. In Fcap. 
 Cloth, Price 5^:. 
 
 " An admirable edition, and the Map of the Mer de Glace most cwrect and valuable." — 
 Albert Smith. 
 
 NORWAY AND ITS GLACIERS VISITED IN 1851. 
 
 Followed by Journals of E.KCursions in the High Alps of Dauphind, Berne, and Savoy 
 With Two Maps and numerous Illustrations. Royal 8vo. Cloth, Price 21s., 
 
 Recently Published, 
 
 MADEIRA, ITS CLIMATE AND SCENERY: 
 
 A Handbook for Invalid and other Visitors. By Robert White. Second Edition. Edited 
 by James Yatk Johnson. With Map, Crown 8vo. Is. 6d. 
 
 " The most complete and trustworthy Guide Book to Madeira yet published." — Litekart 
 Gazette. 
 
 Edinburgh : A. & C. BLACK. London : LONGMAN & CO. ; 
 & SMITH & SON, Strand ; and all Booksellers.
 
 16 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 FRANKFORT O. M. 
 
 S!LBEIli\E 
 
 MEDAIILE 
 
 ; 
 
 
 STEMPEl, 
 
 b e w i 1 1 i g t 
 
 vom 
 
 V^ 
 
 Afli 
 
 SENAT 
 
 der freien Stadt, 
 FRAMFIIRT. 
 
 FIIIEDEICH BO.HLEE, 
 
 MNUFACTOUY OF STAGHORN, 
 
 Zeil No. 54 (next door to the Post-Ofiace). 
 
 Furniture of every description, as Sofas, Chairs, Tables, &c. &c. Chan- 
 deliers, Table and Hand Candlesticks, Shooting-tackle, Inkstands, Paper- 
 knives, Penholders, Seals, &c. Knives, Riding-whips, Cigar-cases and 
 Holders, Pipes, Match-boxes, Porte-monnaies, Card-cases, Thermometers, 
 Goblets, Candle-screens, Figures and Groups of Animals executed after 
 Itiedinger and others. Brooches, Bracelets, Earrings, Shirt-pins, Studs, and 
 Buttons. Stag and Deer Heads with Antlers attached to the Skull. Sofa- 
 rugs or Foot-cloths of Skins of Wild Animals with Head jireserved. 
 
 Orders for a Complete Set or for any quantity of Furniture will be 
 promptly executed. 
 
 The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. M^Cracken, 7, Old Jewry.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 17 
 
 FRANKFORT O. M. 
 
 FPiIEDPiICIl BOHLEE, 
 
 Zeil, 4i-^S No. 54, 
 
 ^■^' d e r Post, 
 
 diclit neben 
 
 Stempel, bewilligt vom Senat 
 
 0,(MXy 
 
 Mt^^ 
 
 der freien Stadt, Frankfurt. 
 
 Pendules (Ornamental Clocks) of every description, Vases, Goblets, Antique 
 and Modern St^vtuettes and Gboups, Groups of Animals, Inkstands, 
 Paper-weights, &c. &c., in Bronze, Cast Iron, Galvano-plastic, &c. 
 
 Crowx-chandeliers ; Branch, Table, and Hand Candlesticks, in Bronze, 
 &c. ; Lamps of every description. 
 
 Porcelain and Britannia-metal Goods, Liqueur-chests. 
 
 Travelling Dressing-cases, Piailroad Companions, Picnic-baskets, Tra- 
 velling Bags, Brushes, Combs. 
 
 Work-tables and Boxes, Tapestries, Fans, Ball-books, Smelling-bottles, 
 •Opera-Glasses, &g. &c. 
 
 Superior Copies of the Ariadne by Danneckcr, and the Amazon by Kiss. 
 
 Genuine Eau de Cologne of Jean Maria Farina, opposite the Jiilichsplatz. 
 
 The Agents in Loudon are Messrs. J. and R. M^Cracken, 7, Old Jewry. 
 
 c
 
 18 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 i 
 
 "ft Jk3^ # 
 
 PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE, 
 
 LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E. C. 
 
 PAETIES residing in any part of the 
 United Kingdom or London, who desire 
 to avoid delay, trouble, or expense, can 
 have their PASSPORTS obtained and 
 duly vised, with the utmost expedition 
 and despatch upon application by Letter, 
 or otherwise, to Mr. W. J. ADAMS 
 (Bradshaw's British and Continental 
 Guide Office), 59, Fleet Street, as above. 
 
 Country' Residents, by this arrangement, are saved the trouble of coming 
 to London about their Passport, as it can be forwarded to them by Post 
 {en Regie). 
 
 For full particulars, see Bradshaw's Continentxil Guide, pages xxix to xxxlv. 
 
 The countersignature of the American Minister in London obtained to United 
 
 States Passports. 
 
 Passports carefully mounted, and Names lettered thereon in Gold. 
 
 Passport Cases, from Is. 6c?. to 68. each, 
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 Students' & Portable Travelling Cases. 
 
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 Polyglot Washing Books for Ladies 
 or Gentlemen — English and French 
 — Italian — German — Spanish — 
 Portuguese, Is. each ; per Post, 
 Is. \d. 
 
 Family do., Is. 6c?. each; per Post, 
 Is. Id. 
 
 Foreign Post Note Paper, Envelopes. 
 &c. &c. 
 
 Courier Bags. Carpet do. 
 
 And every description of Stationery, British and Foreign 
 
 THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. 
 
 Phrase Books, French and German Dictionaries. 
 
 Bradshaw's Biutish and Continental Guides. 
 
 Bradshaw's Special Continental Guide and Handbook. 
 
 Bradshaw's Descriptive Guide and Illustrated Handbook of Great Britain 
 
 and Ireland, with Map, &c. Ditto of France, Belgium, Switzerland, Paris, 
 
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 Dr. Lee's Continental Books on Climates, Scenery, and Remedial Resources- 
 
 Notes on Spain, its Climate, &c. ; Nice and its Climate. 
 Adaims's Guides to the Watering-places of England; boards, 2s. 
 Adams's English Lakes, &c.. Is. 
 
 Addresses of experienced Couriers may be had on application to 
 
 W. J. ADAMS (Bradshaw's British and Continental Guide Office), 
 LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E.C.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 19 
 
 BONN ON THE RHINE. 
 
 MR. SCHMITZ, 
 
 PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL, 
 
 Begs leave to recommeud his Hotel to English Travellers. The 
 apartments are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms 
 are carpeted ; and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine- 
 cellar, is well provided. Mr. SCHMITZ begs to add that at no first- 
 rate Hotel on the Rhine will be found more moderate charges and more 
 cleanliness. 
 
 The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following 
 Members of the English Royal Family : — 
 
 R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by General Sir W. Codrincton, 
 
 Col'-inel PoNSONBT, Sir Frederic Stanlkv, Dr. Akmstrong, Rev. F. C. 
 
 Tauvkh, Mr. GiBiis, etc 
 , R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite paying a visit at the Golden 
 
 Star Hotel to His Majesty the King of the Belgians. 
 R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite. 
 R. H. the Duchess of Camwudge and Princess Mart of Cambridge, 
 
 accompanied by the Baron Knesebeck and Suite. 
 R. H. the Prince of Walks paying a visit at the Golden Star Hotel to 
 
 T. R. H. the Duchess of Cambkukie and i'rintess Mart of Cambiulge. 
 R. H. the Prince of Wales, acconiyianied by the Right Honourable C. 
 
 Grey, General Major, Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. 
 
 Armstrong. Rev. F. C. Takver, Mr. Gibbs, etc. 
 R. H. Prince Alfred of Great Britain, accompanied by Lieutenant- 
 
 General Sir Frederick Stovin and Lieutenant Cowell. 
 , M. Adelaide, Queen Dowager of Great Britain, accompanied by 
 
 His Highness Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, Lord and Lady Bah- 
 
 rington. Sir David Davies, M.D., Rev. J. R. Wood, M.A., Capuiiii 
 
 Taylor, &c. &c., honoured the above establisliment with a 'J'hreb 
 
 Days' Visit. 
 R. H. the Duke of Cambridge and Suite. 
 R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Clarence (King William IV. and 
 
 Queen Adelaide) and Suite. 
 M. QUEEN Adelaide, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of Eurol 
 
 Earl and Countess of Denbigh, Earl and Coimtess Howe, &c. 
 R. H. the Duchess of Gloucester and Suite. 
 R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 
 R. H. the Prince George of Cambridge and Suite. 
 R. H. Prince Albert of Saxe Coburg Gotiia, accompanied by Prince 
 
 Ernest of Saxe Coburg Gotiia, and their Suite. 
 R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge, accompanied by the Princess Augusta 
 
 of Cambridge, and their Suite. 
 R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. 
 
 Prince of Leiningen. 
 
 R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 
 R. H. Princess Carolina of Cambridge. 
 R. PL the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 
 R. H. Princess Mart of Cambridge. 
 R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. 
 
 Prince of Leiningen. 
 R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, with their Family and 
 
 Suite. 
 
 1857. 
 
 Oct. 16 
 
 {"■ 
 
 1857. 
 
 Aug. 20 
 
 {„. 
 
 1857. 
 
 Aug. 8 
 
 H. 
 
 1857. 
 
 July 29 
 
 )'• 
 
 1857. 
 
 July 29 
 
 )"• 
 
 1857. 
 
 July 15 
 
 H. 
 
 1856. 
 
 Nov. . 
 
 H. 
 
 1846. 
 
 June 18 
 
 
 1818. May . . 
 1S25. March 
 and Sept. . 
 
 1834. July. . 
 
 H. 
 
 1836. 
 ]837. 
 1839. 
 
 Aug. . 
 July. . 
 Nov. . 
 
 Nov. . < 
 
 H. 
 
 H. 
 
 H. 
 
 (H. 
 
 f 
 
 1840. 
 
 .•••■' 
 
 (H. 
 
 1841. 
 
 ... .J 
 
 H. 
 
 1841. 
 1844. 
 
 1845. 
 
 • • • • 
 
 • • • • 
 
 June .   
 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 
 1847. 
 
 July . ^ 
 
 r. 
 
 the 
 
 the
 
 20 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 ROYAL INSURANCE COMPANY, 
 
 ROYAL INSURANCE BUILDINGS, 
 JlTorth John Street, and I>ale Street, liiTerpool, 
 
 AND 
 
 29, LOMBARD STREET, LONDON. 
 Capital— £2,000,000 in lOOjOOO Shares of £20 each. 
 
 THE City Article of the London Times, of the 24th of July 1856, states 
 that the transactions of the Royal Insurance Company "appear to 
 ■have been of a perfectly satisfactory character." It includes the following 
 statements confirmatory of that opinion : —   
 
 PREMIUMS. 
 
 The Premiums of Kino Offices enumerated are} ^824 924 
 
 stated to be i ' 
 
 Of which the Royal alone amounts to 371,957 
 
 being 82 per cent, of the accumulated Premiums of the remaining eight 
 Companies. EXPENDITURE. 
 
 The accumulated Expenditure of 5-i Life Offices enumerated by The 
 Times of 12th August, 1856, compared with their amount of Premium and 
 Interest, is stated to be 61 per cent. ; the Expenditiu-e of the Koyal Insur- 
 ance Company is only 13 per cent. 
 
 RESOURCES. 
 
 In like manner the entire Funds in hands of thirteen Offices are quoted in 
 The Times at £1,238,688, including the " Royal," wliich alone is £372,394, 
 and which is, therefore, equal to 43 per Cent, of the accumulated Funds 
 of the remaining twelve Offices, viz. for the year 1S55. Since increased to 
 £600,000. 
 
 The following figures exhibit the RAPID GROWTH AND INCREASING 
 RESOURCES OF THE COMPANY :— 
 
 Whilst last year, 1857, they 
 
 were £175,000 
 
 Total Revenue, 1857, all 
 
 sources 260,000 
 
 Increase on One Year alone 40,000 
 Funds in hand, to meet any claims, over £600,000. 
 
 LIFE. 
 
 LARGE BONUS DECLARED 1855, 
 
 Amounting to £2 per cent, per annum on the Sum Assured : being, on ages from Twenty 
 to Forty, 80 per cent, on the Premium. 
 
 PERIODS OF »lVBSIOI\ — EVERV FIVE YEARS. 
 
 PROGRESS OF THE LIFE BRANCH. 
 New Policies for the Year ending 
 
 FIRE PREMIUMS. SUM ASSURED. PREMIUM. 
 
 June, 1855 396 £166,864 £4.867 
 
 „ 1856 654 288,321 8,370 
 
 ,, 1857 756 391,158 11,894 
 
 Thus the New Assurers for the Year ending June, 1857, are 160 per cent, 
 above those for the Year ending June, 1 855. 
 
 PERCY M. DOVE, Actuary and Manager. 
 
 TTie Company is willing to consider tlie propriety of establisiiing Agencies in 
 Foreign places, ivhere it has not at present any Representatives. Applications from 
 Gentlemen of the higliest position and cliaracter will alone receive attention. 
 
 Fire Premiums- 
 
 -1848 . 
 
 . £31.346 
 
 
 1850 . 
 
 . 44.027 
 
 
 1852 . 
 
 . 76,925 
 
 » 
 
 1854 . 
 
 . 128,459 
 
 ■>■> „ 
 
 1856 . 
 
 . 151,733
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 21 
 
 PELICAN LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY, 
 
 Established in 1797, 
 70, Lombard Street, City, and 57, Charing Cross, Westminster, 
 
 DIRSCTOSIS. 
 
 Henry Grace, Esq. 
 
 Kirkman D. Hodt;son, Esq., M.P. 
 
 Henry Lancelot Holland, Esq. 
 
 Benjamin Shaw, Esq. 
 
 Matthew Whiting, Esq. 
 
 M. Wy vill, jun., Esq., M.P. 
 
 Robert Gumey Barclay, Esq. 
 Octavius E. Coope, Esq. 
 William Cotton, D.C.L., F.R.S. 
 John Davis, Esq. 
 William Walter Fuller, Esq. 
 Jas. A. Gordon, M.D., F.R.S. 
 
 This Company offers : — 
 
 COIVXFZ.STS SSCURZTV. 
 
 MODERATE RATES of Premium with Participation in Four-fifths, or Eighty per cent., 
 of the Profits. 
 LOW RATES without Participation in Profits. 
 
 In connection with Life Assurance, on approved Security, in sums of not less than £500. 
 
 Required for the Assurance of lUOl. for the whole term of life : — 
 
 Age. 
 
 15 
 20 
 30 
 
 Without 
 Profits. 
 
 With 
 Profits. 
 
 ±'1 U 
 
 1 13 10 
 
 2 4 
 
 £1 15 
 
 1 19 3 
 
 2 10 4 
 
 Age. 
 
 40 
 50 
 60 
 
 Without 
 Profits. 
 
 i2 18 10 
 4 9 
 6 10 
 
 ■\\^th 
 Profits. 
 
 £3 6 5 
 
 4 10 7 
 6 7 4 
 
 For Prospectuses and Forms of Proposal apply at the Offices as above, or to any of the 
 Company's Agents. 
 
 ROBERT TUCKER, Secretary. 
 
 THE LONDON and WESTMINSTER BANK issues Circular Notes of £10 
 each, payable at every important place in Europe. These Notes are issued without 
 charge, and they are cashed abroad free of commission. The Bank also issues, free of charge. 
 Letters of Credit on all the principal cities and towns in Europe. The Letters of Credit 
 are issued only at the head office, in Lothbury. The Circular A'otes may be obtained at the 
 bead office, in Lothbury, or at any of the Branches, viz.; — 
 
 Westminster Branch, 1, St. James's Square. 
 Bloomsbury „ 214, High Holborn. 
 Southwark ,, 3, Wellington Street, Borough. 
 
 Eastern „ 87, High Street, Whitechapel. 
 
 Marylebone „ 4, Stratford I^lace, 0.\ford Street. 
 Temple Bar „ 217, Strand. 
 May 1, 1858. J. W. GILBART, General Manager. 
 
 LUCERNE (SWITZERLAND). 
 
 ME. JOHN EEBER, 
 
 rKOPRIETOR OF THE ENGLISH HOTEL, 
 
 (ENGLISCHER HOF). 
 
 THIS SPLENDID HOTEL is situated on the borders of the LAKE OF THE 
 FOUR CANTONS. The views from the balconies of the Hotel are of the most splendid 
 description. Many of the rooms command the view of the magnificent chain of the Alps, 
 Mount Pilate, and the Righi. The ENGLISH HOTEL contains sixty rooms provided with 
 every comfort. This new and very clean Establishment is one of the first-ranked hotels in 
 Switzerland, and deservedly patronised by the English. The Beading Room of the Hotel 
 is furnished with English and American Papers, The Times and Galignani.
 
 22 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 Give perfect frcedoin Imiu i'..u-hs in Ten jMinutes, niid instaiiMelicf and a rapid cure of 
 Asthma and Consuiiiptioii, L'<jU!;lis, Colds, and .dl Disorders of the Breath and Lungs. 
 
 Cure of 29 Years' Astlimatic Cough. 
 
 Middli-ton, near Manchester. 
 
 Sir,— I am now 44 years of age, and I have been afflicted with an asthmatic cougli since 
 I wa,s a boy of fifteen years of age; during that time 1 have resorted to every means in 
 my power to remove it, but in vain, until last Sunday, when I sent lor a small box of V.r. 
 Ivocock's Wafers. 1 have taken two bo.xes since, and from the effects they have had upon 
 me 1 feel no doubt of a speedj- recovery. G. STRINGER. 
 
 Witness, M. Lysch, Chemist, Market-street. 
 
 The 2^articulars of many hiuidi-eds of Cares may he had from every Agent thrmighout the 
 
 Kingdom. 
 To Sing-ers and Public Speakers they are invaluable, as in a few hours 
 they remove all hoarseness, and wonderfully increase the power and flexibility of the voice. 
 
 TllEY HAVE A PLEASANT TaSTE. 
 
 Price Is. 1+ I., 2s. 9d., and 11,<!. per box. Sold by all Medicine Vendors. 
 
 IMPORTANT CAUTION.— It has been discovered that many Medicine Vendors, when 
 aski.d for any of 3J31. liOCOCBl'S I«E3>IClPrB3, attempt to pass off instead 
 some counterfeit, bovause tliey have a greater profit in doing so tlian by selling the genuine 
 Hfedicine: the Pur.Lic is CArTioxi:ii against such dislionest practices, which may be detected 
 
 FEITS AKD AN IMPOSITION. VaSa^ XS tl ^St 'flS&S^SSISSB t'^^'^^ mU 
 
 E VER Y SATURDA Y, PRICE FO (JRPENGE, OF ANY BOOKSELLER, 
 
 THE ATHENJEUM 
 
 JOURNAL OF LITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND ART. 
 
 (stamped to go free by post, bd.) Contains : 
 
 Reviews, with copious extracts, of every important New English Book, and of the more 
 imi)ortant Foreign AV^orks. 
 
 Heports of the Proceedings of the Learned and Scientific Societies, with Abstracts of all 
 J'apers of Interest. 
 
 Authentic Accounts of all Scientific Voyages nnd E.\peditions. 
 Poreig-n Correspondence on subjects relating to Literatxire, Science, and Art. 
 Criticisms on Art, with Critical Notices of I-Lxhibitions, Picture Collections, New 
 Prints, itc. 
 
 lilusic and I>railia, Including Reports on the Opera, Concerts, Theatres, New 
 
 J.Iiisic, kc. 
 
 Biogrrapllical Wotices of Men distinguished in Literature, Science, and Art. 
 
 Orig^lnal Papers and Poems. 
 
 "Weekly Gossip. 
 
 2>Xiscellanea, including all that is likelv to interest tlie informed and intelligent 
 
 THE ATHENJEUM 
 
 is so conducted that the reader, however far distant, is, in respect to Literature, Science, 
 and the Arts, on an equality in point of infonnation with the best-informed circles of the 
 Metropolis. 
 
 *.* The ATHEN^UM is published every Saturday, but is re-issued each Month stitched 
 in a WrappiT. 
 
 The Volume for 1856, complete in itself, and containing about 1624 large quarto Pages, with 
 
 Title-page and Index, may be had of any Bookseller, price One Guiivea. 
 
 Office for Advertisements, 14, Wellington Stkeet Nouth, Stuanb, London, W. C.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23 
 
 NEW 
 
 TOURIST'S MAP OF SCOTLAND. 
 
 BY A. K. JOHNSTON, F.K.G.S., F.E.S.E., &c. 
 
 Size, 3 feet by 2 feet, containing: 7439 Names of Places. Price 7s. 6d. in a case 
 for the Pocket ; accompanied by an Alphabetical List of the Names in the Map. 
 
 This Work, constructed at great expense from the Trigonometrical and Detail 
 Surveys of the Boards of Ordnance and Admiralty, and an extensive collection of 
 pi-ivate and unpublislied Materials, is the only ijeneral Map which orpresents the 
 true Physical and Topographical Features of the Country. 
 
 ' The assertion, bold as it is, seems fully borne out by the work itself." — Scotsman. 
 
 WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, Edinbukgh and London, 
 
 On Four Sheets Imperial, beautifully printed in Colours, 
 
 A GEOLOGICAL MAP OF EUROPE. 
 
 By SIK R. I. MUECHISON, D.C.L., M.A., F.R.S., &c. ; 
 
 Aud JAMES NICOL, F.R.S.E., F.G.S. 
 Constructed by A. KEITH JOHNSTON, F.R.S.E., &c. 
 
 Size, 4 feet 2 by 3 feet 5 inches. Price in Sheets, 3^. 3s. ; in a Cloth Case, 
 
 4to., 31. lus. 
 
 WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, Edinburgh and London. 
 
 On Four Sheets Imperial, carefully coloured, price in Sheets, 30s. ; or in 4to., 
 Cloth Case, for Travelling, 2l. 2s., 
 
 A NEW MAP OF EUROPE. 
 
 By A. KEITH JOHNSTON, F.R.S.E., &c. 
 
 WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, Edinburgh and London. 
 
 NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION, 
 
 THE PHYSICAL ATLAS OF NATURAL I 
 
 PHENOMENA. 
 
 By A. K. JOHNSTON, F.E.S.E., &c. I 
 
 Consisting of 35 large and 7 small Plates, printed in Colours; and 145 folio 
 pages of Text and Index. In imperial folio, half-bound in russia or morocco, 
 price 12/. 12s. 
 
 WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, Edinburgh and London.
 
 24 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 CORNWALL MINING DISTRICT. . 
 Mineralogy and Geology. 
 liAVIN'S MUSEUITI, €MAPEB. STREET, PENZANCE. 
 
 VIEWS, 
 
 SERPENTINE 
 ORNAMENTS, iill, 
 
 STUDENTS of Mineralogy and Geology, and Tourists to the Scenery, Antiquities, 
 and Mines of Cornwall, will be interested by a visit to this Museum. The Collection 
 of Cornish Minerals is unique, and contains specimens of the most Interi'sting and rare sub- 
 stances, with perfect crystallizations, for which the aljuve County has been so justly 
 celebrated. Selections made for Purchasers on various Scales. 
 
 Minerals scientihcally arranged in Trays containing 100, with descriptive Catalogue, 
 from If. 5s. to^ii. Larger Specimens neatly set in a Mahogany Cabinet at 5i. More extensive 
 Selections and first-rate specimens from iol. to 501. and upwards. 
 
 Geological Selections, comprehending Specimens of the various Eocks of the County, 
 from ll. upwards. 
 
 e5~ A specimen of Carbonate of Iron, from Wheal Maudlin Mine, for which the sum of 
 130^. has been refused ; as well as a great many others presumed to be unrivalled. 
 A LARGE Assortment of the LrzAun Serpextine Ornamekts. 
 Views of Scenerii and Antiquities, Handbooks, Pocket-Maps of Cornv:all and Devon. 
 Prompt attention given to all Orders from a distance. 
 
 ^URICH. 
 
 -HOTEL BELLE VUE, 
 By C. GUJER. 
 
 This excellent first-rate establishment, re- 
 cently constructed, s'rongly recommended 
 for its comfort and cleanliness, is in the 
 best and most delightful situation on the 
 bank of the lake opposite the landing-place 
 of the steamers, commanding frcjm its 
 windows an extensive view over the lake, 
 the Alps, and glaciers, as well as the quay 
 and the town. It comprises upwards of 80 
 beds and 6 sitting-rooms, with separated 
 breakfast and spacious dining saloons, a 
 splendid and good restaurant a la carte, and 
 English newspapers. Prices are moderate, a 
 list of wliich will be found in each bed-room. 
 Tables-d'hote at 1 and 5 o'clock. Flys to 
 meet all trains; a small boat meeting the 
 steamers. Knglish spoken by the servants. 
 
 From Octolier till May a good pension 
 (board) on reduced terms. 
 
 J. H. KEREZ, 
 
 CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST, 
 
 ZURICH, 
 
 DESPECTFULLY announces to Tour- 
 -'-^ ists and Visitors that he prepares and 
 dispenses Medicines and Prescriptions ac- 
 cording to the Krglish Pharmacopa'ia with 
 the purest and choicest Drugs and Chemicals. 
 J. H. Kerez, having been a principal dis- 
 pensing Assistant at one of the first Houses 
 in England, hopes that his 'experience and 
 attention will merit the support and confi- 
 dence of the English Nobility and Gentry. 
 
 J. H. K. keeps constantly on hand a well- 
 selected Stock of the most popular Engliah 
 Patent Medicines and Perfiunerj-.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 25 
 
 SIR WALTER SCOTT'S WRITINGS AND LIFE. 
 
 WAVER LEY NOVELS, «^^»i'' the Author's 
 hxft Introductions, Notes, and Additions. 
 
 LIBRARY EDITIOX. Illustratod by upwards 
 
 of Two Hundred Engravin'^s on St.eU aftor Drawings 
 bv Turner, Landseer, Wilkie, Sl.tntield, Roberts, i!tc., 
 including Portraits of the Instorual personages described 
 in the Novels. Complete in 25 volumt-s, demy 8vo., 
 elegantly bound in extra cloth, 131. is. e'd. 
 
 ABBOTSFORD EDITION. With One Hundred 
 
 and Twenty Engravings on Steel, and nearly Two Thou- 
 dred on Wood, In 12 vols, super-royal bvo. 14/. l-li. 
 
 AUTHOR'S FAVOURITE EOmOX, in 48 
 
 portable fcap. 8vo. vols. (B6 Engravings), //. 45. 
 
 CABINET EDITION, in 25 vols. fcap. 8vo. (26 
 
 Illustrations), JUs. 6d. 
 
 PEOPLE'S EDITION, in 5 large vols, royal 
 
 8vo. 42s. 
 
 POETICAL WORKS-consisting of, 1st. 
 The Metrical Romances,— The Lay of the 
 Last Minstrel, Marmiox, The Lady of the 
 Lake, Rokeby, The Lord of the Isles, The 
 Vision of Don Roderick, The Bridal of 
 Triermain, and Harold the Dauntless. 
 2iid. Dramas, Songs, and Ballads. 3rd. The 
 Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border. 
 
 The folloiving are the only Copyright Editions, 
 with the Author's last Notes ik Improvements, 
 
 I. In One portable fcap. Vol. including all the 
 
 'Metrie:d Uonnances (e.\cept the * Bridal of Triermain* and 
 •Harold'), the Principal Songs and Ballads, and several 
 lllu>tniti()ns. Bound in cloth, gilt edges, 5i". ; morocco 
 antique, 10*. 
 
 II. In One crown 8vo. Vol. (same contents as 
 
 previous eelition), with numerous Engravings on Steel and 
 \Vood, aiter Sir David \^'illcie, Stanfield, Gilbert, and Fos- 
 ter. Bound in cloth, gilt edges, 7^- *i(l. ; morocco ant. 14s. 
 
 III. In 12 Vols. fcp. 8vo. (24 i;ngravings), 36s. 
 *^* This is the only edition which contains 'The Min- 
 
 ■strelsy of the Scottish Border.* 
 
 IV. In 6 Vols. fcap. 8vo. (12 Engravings), 24s. 
 
 V. In One Vol. royal 8vo. (PEOPLES EDI- 
 TION), lOs. 
 
 VI. The ABBOTSFORD EDITION, printed 
 
 on Tint'-d Paper, with upwards of b'lt Illustrations on Steel 
 and Wood, alter Turner, Gdbcrt, and Foster. Elegantly 
 bound in extra cloth, gdt edges, 31s. Cd. ; morocco elegant 
 or antique, 42.*(. 
 
 VII. TOURISTS' EDITIONS of The LAY 
 
 (if the LAST MINSTKEL, M.\liM10N, LADY of the 
 LAKE, LORD of the ISLE.S, KOKEB'V', and BRIDAL of 
 FKIER.MAIN, IS. 3d. each; cloth, Is. 6d. ; morocco, gilt 
 edges, 2.S. 6d. 
 
 VIII. New Illustrated Editions of The LADY 
 
 if the LAKE, MAllMION, LAY of the LA.ST MIN- 
 STREL, and LORD of the ISLES, contiuning each from 
 70 to 100 Illustrations on Wood, by Birket Foster and John 
 liilbert. Piinte<l in the best style on Tinttnl Paper, and 
 _'leg.'intly bound in cloth, gilt edgrs, IB-?, each; morocco 
 .;lcgant or antique, 2gs. ; enamelled tartan boards, 36s. 
 
 PROSE WORKS-consisting of. Tales op 
 a Grandfather (History of Scotland), Tales 
 OF A GRANDF.iTHER (History of France), Life 
 of John Dryden, Memoies op Jonathan 
 Swift, Mejioirs of Eminent Novelists, &c., 
 Paul's Letters to his Ivinsfolk, Essays on 
 Chlvalry, Romance, and the Drama, &c., 
 Provincial Antiquities of Scotland, Life 
 OF Napoleon Bonaparte, Miscellaneous 
 Criticisms, &c. 
 
 COMPLETE EDITIONS. 
 
 I. In 28 Vols. fcap. 8vo. with 56 Engravings 
 
 from Turner, 84s. ; separate volumes, 35. 
 
 II. In 3 Vols, royal Svo. (People's Edition). 
 
 Bound in clotli, 2tjs. ; separate volumes, I. and IT. 10s, 
 each; III. (Talks of a Grandfather), 6s. 
 
 Illustrated Edition of the TALES of aGRAND- 
 
 F.VTHER — (HlsTORv op Scotland). With 6 Engravings 
 after Turner, and upwards of 50 on Wood. In 3 Vols, 
 fcap. Svo. cloth, 125. ; extra cloth, gilt edgis, I5s. 
 
 (History of France). With 2 Engravings 
 
 from Turner and upwards of 50 on Wood. 1 vol. fcap. 
 Svo. cloth, 4s. ; extra clotli, gilt edges, 5s. 
 
 School Edition of the HISTORY of SCOT- 
 LAND, with Map. 2 vols, crown Svo. bound, 10s. 
 LIFE of NAPOLEON BONAPARTE. 5 vols, 
 
 fcap. Svo. Maps, Portrait, and 9 Engravings after 
 Turner, cloth, tOs. 
 
 Another Edition, in larger type. 9 vols. fcap. 
 
 8vo. Maps, Portmits, and Engravings, cloth, 27s. 
 
 SELECTIONS from Sir WALTER SCOTT'S 
 
 WORl-CS— Belgium and Waterloo, France 
 AND Paris, Tales op Chh^alry, Romantic 
 Narratives, Characters op Eminent Per- 
 sons, The Highland Clans, Scottish Scenes 
 AND Characters, ISARitAirvE and Descrip- 
 tive Pieces. 
 
 Price Kighteenpence, or Two Shillings cloth. 
 
 BEAUTIES of SIR WALTER SCOTT; being 
 
 Selections from his Writings and Lite. 1 vol. crown 8vo., 
 with Two Engravings, cloth gilt, 5s. ; extra cloth, gilt 
 sides and edues, 65. 
 
 READIXGS for the YOUXG-, from the Works 
 of Sir W:iUer Scott. 3 vols, with 36 lUustr.itiuns on 
 Wooii, ^s. 6d. each ; or bound in 1 vol. cloth, gilt 
 edges, 7s. 
 
 LIFE of Sm AVALTER SCOTT. By J. G. 
 LocKHART, Esq. Three Editions as follows. 
 
 In Ten Vols. fcap. Svo., uniform with the Au- 
 thor's Favourite Edition of the Novels. 20 Engravings on 
 Steel. 30s. 
 
 In' One Vol, royal 8vo., uniform with the 
 
 Novel?, People*s Edition, Witli Portrait, 105. 
 
 The same, Largo Paper, uniform with the Novels, 
 Abcotsford Edition. With 11 Engravings from T'omcr, 
 Portraits, &c., 185. 
 
 In One Vol. crown 8vo., Mlth 12 Engravings 
 
 from Turner and others, 7-s. ^- \ extra cloth, gilt edges, 
 3s. td. 
 
 Edinburcfh ; 
 
 ADAM and CHARLES BLACK. London ; 
 And all Booksellers. 
 
 HOULSTON and WRIGHT.
 
 2G 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 THE NEW REGISTERED PORTMANTEAU, 
 
 UKGISXEUICD AND MANUFACTURED BY 
 
 JOHN SOUTHGATE, 
 
 76, WATLING STREET, 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 This Portmanteau is admitted by all wlio have used it to be the most perfect and useful of any: 
 yet invented, and to combine all the advantages so long desired by those who travel. 
 
 Its peculiar conveniences consist in its containing separate compartments for each description 
 of Clothes, Boots, &c. ; each division is kept entirely distinct, and is immediately accessible on. 
 opening the Portmanteau, without lilting or disturbing anything else; every article is packed per-- 
 feclly flat, and remains so during the whole of the journey. 
 
 SOUTHGATE'S NEW FOLDING PORTMANTEAU. 
 
 With separate divi- 
 sions for Shirts, Linen, 
 Clothes, and Boots ; the 
 whole of which are 
 immediately accessible 
 on opening the Port- 
 manteau. 
 
 Both of these Port- 
 manteaus are admir- 
 alty adapted for Con- 
 tinental travelling, on 
 account of the facility 
 they offer for Custom- 
 house examination, 
 without disarranging 
 the wardrobe. 
 
 JOH\ SOUTHGATE'S LADIES' POUTMANTEAUS AND DRESS TRIMS, 
 
 With 'I'rays and Moveable Divisions for Bonnets, contain every convenience for packing separately 
 J)resses, Boimets, Linen, &c., and are made in various styles and sizes. 
 
 Tliey may be obtained of Mr. WtLKiNSON, 30, Cockspur Street; of Messrs. Moore & Co., 14, St, 
 James's Street, London; of Mr. HtiNT, Above Bar, Southampton; of Mr. Bays, Hatter, Cambridge; 
 of Mr. ICllknger, Granger Street, Newcastle-on-Tyne ; Mr. Northam, Tnmk Maker, opposite St. 
 Sidwell's Church, Exeter; Mr. Damon, Weymouth; Mr. Nicholson, Saddler, Manchester; of any 
 tjaddler or Outtitter throughout the kingdom'; and of the Manufacturer, 
 
 JOHN SOUTHGATE, 76, WATLING STREET, LOKDOW.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 27 
 
 SOUTH-EASTERN RAILWAY. 
 
 THE MAIL SHORT SEA-ROUTE TO ALL PARTS OF THE CONTmENT, 
 VIA FOLKESrONE AND BOULOGNK, AND DOVER AND CALAIS. 
 
 LONDON, PARIS, AND THE SOUTH OF EUROPE. 
 Paris in 10| hours. Switzerland (Bale) 37h hours. 
 
 Marseilles 34 hours. Bordeaux 38 hours. 
 Sea-passagre under 2 hours. Four departures daily. 
 
 1. B}^ Tidal Service via Folkestone and Boulogne. For times of sailing 
 
 see Company's Time-book and Bradshaw's (niides. 
 This (Service is now accelerated so as to perform the jonrney between 
 Loudon and Paris in less than 11 hours. Small Boats are never used 
 in embarking or landing. The Trains are accompanied by an Inter- 
 preting Conductor. 
 
 OTHER SERVICES 
 Leave London Arrive at Paris Leave Paris Arrive in London 
 
 2. 8.30 a.m. (via Calais) 10.20p.m. 8.0 a.m. 10. p.iu. 
 
 3. 1.30 p.m. „ 5.30 a.m. 1.45 p.m. 4.30 a.m. 
 
 4. 8.30 p.m. „ 9.10 a.m. 7.30 p.m. 7.45 a.m. 
 
 -^"W^*^ can be registered by all Through Trains. 
 
 LONDON AND PARIS. 
 
 There is a Tldrd Class Service between these Cities. Fare, 25s. 
 Beturn Tickets are also issued, First and Second Class. 
 
 LONDON, BELGIUM, HANOVER, GERMANY, THE 
 RHINE, AND THE NORTH OF EUROPE, 
 
 via Dover and Cains, and Dover a)id Ostend, 
 
 Brussels in 13 hours. Berlin in 35 hours. 
 
 Cologne in 19 hours. Hamburg in 36 hours. 
 
 Three departures from Iiondon daily, viz. 8.30 a.m. (the most 
 convenient Service), 1.30 p.m., and 8.30 p.m. Trains. 
 
 Bag-grag^e can be registered to Brussels, Cologne, &c., by which 
 each Passenger secures an allowance of 50 lbs. weight of Baggage /ree 
 on the Belgian and Rhenish Railways. 
 
 Through Tickets to nearly all the Chief Continental Cities (enabling 
 the passenger to stop at certain places on the journey) and all informa- 
 tion may be obtained at the Chief OfHces, London Bridge Station ; 
 4:0, Regent Circus, Piccadilly. City : 147, Cheapside, and 20, Moor- 
 gate Street. Paris : 4, Boulevard des Italiens. Brussels : 74, Mon- 
 tague de la Cour. For further particulars, see Time-book and Bills. 
 
 C. W. EBORALL, General Manager. 
 London Terminus, May, 1858.
 
 28 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 The Society of Swiss Couriers and 
 Travelling' Servants. 
 
 THIS Society, liaving been composed only of the most 
 experienced and respectable Couriers and Travelling 
 Servants having a thorough knowledge of the Continental 
 and Eastern Languages, beg most respectfully to solicit the 
 patronage and support of the Nobility and Gentry. 
 
 They possess the highest testimonials from those they have 
 had the honour of serving both in England and abroad, and 
 trust to merit a continuance of futxire favours. 
 
 All information respecting Couriers and Travelling Servants 
 can be had of the Agent, 
 
 HENRY MASSEY, Manufacturing Stationer, 
 103, Park Street, Grosvenor Square. 
 
 GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY. 
 
 A KNOWLEDGE of these iuterestincr brandies of Science adds greatly to tlie 
 pleasure of the traveller in all parts of the world, and may lead to important discoveries. 
 
 Mr. TENNANT, Jlineralogist to Her Majesty, 149, Strand, ^'wes Practical Instruction 
 to TrareUers in Misehalogy and Gecjlogy. He can supply Geological Maps, Hammers, 
 Acid Bottles, Blowpipes, and all the recent Works on Mineralogj', Conchology, Chemistry, 
 and GeoUigy. 
 
 Elementary Collections of Jlinerals, Eocks, and Fossils, at Two, Five, Ten, Twenty, Fifty, 
 and One Hundred Guineas each. 
 
 A Collection for Five Guineas, which will illustrate the recent works on Geology by Lyell, 
 Ansted, Blantell, and others, contains 200 Specimens, in a plain Mahogany Cabinet, with 
 five Trays, comprising the following specimens, viz.: — 
 
 JIINElvALS which are either the components of rtncks, or occasionally embedded in them : 
 Quartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Garnet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Augite, Asbestus, Felspar, 
 Mica, Talc, Tourmaline, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Bar3'ta, Sti'ontia, Salt, Sulphur, 
 Plumbago, Bitumen, &c. 
 
 NATIVE Mm'ALS, or METALLIFEROUS MINERALS: these are found in masses or 
 beds, in veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivers. .Spiximens of the following metallic 
 ores are put in the Cabinet: Iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver, 
 Gold, Platina, &c. 
 
 ROCKS : Granite, Gneiss, Mica-slate, Clay-slate, Porphyry, Serpentine, Sandstones, Lime- 
 stones, Basalt, Lavas, See. 
 
 PALEOZOIC FOSSILS from the Llandeilo, Wenlock, Ludlow, Devonian, and Carboni- 
 ferous Rocks. 
 
 SECONDARY FOSSILS from the Lias, Oolite, Wealden, and Cretaceous Groups. 
 
 TERTIARY FOSSILS from the Woolwich, Barton, and Bracklesham Beds, London-clay, 
 Crag, S;c. 
 
 In the more expensive collections some of the specimens are rare, and all more select. 
 Mr. Tennakt has on sale the Duke of Buckingham's Collection of IMinerals I'rom Stowe. 
 It contains upwards of 3000 specimens, and has been greatly enriched since the purchase 
 by a collection of coloured Diamonds, Australian Gold, &c. Price 2000 guineas. 
 
 TENNANT, Geologist, No. 149, Strand, Loudon.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 29 
 
 illL ill Sill 
 
 NEW 
 
 ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE 
 
 CONTAINS 
 
 DESIGNS AND PRICES 
 
 OF 
 
 150 DIFFERENT ARTICLES OF 
 
 BED-EOOM FURMITUEE, 
 
 AS WELL AS OF 
 
 100 BEDSTEADS, 
 
 AND 
 
 Prices of Every Description of Bedding. 
 
 SENT FREE BY PO 
 
 HEAL AND SON, 
 
 BEDSTEAD, BEDDING, AND BED-ROOM 
 FURNITURE MANUFACTURERS, 
 
 196, TOTTENHAM COURT EOAD, 
 
 LONDON.
 
 30 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 TO TOURISTS AND TRAVELLERS. 
 
 PASSPORTS— NEW REGULATIONS. BRITISH SUBJECTS who are 
 prepaiiiif; to visit or travel on the Continent may be saved much trouble and 
 expense by obtainius Foreign Office Passports through EDWARD STANFORD'S 
 Agency, 6, Charing Cross, London; whose experience and long established arrange- 
 ments enable him to ensure Passjiorts in proper form and duly vised, according to 
 the New Regulations, without personal attendance. He mounts the Passport, 
 which is good for many years, on Muslin or Silk, in Roan, Morocco, or Russia 
 Case, to prevent injury or loss, as well as to lessen delay in undergoing examina- 
 tion abroad. Residents in the country can have Passports obtained, completed, 
 and forwarded by post. 
 
 For further particulars, including the Forms of Application, Cost of Passport, 
 Visas, &c. &c., see Stanford's Passport Circular, which will be forwarded per post 
 on appliciition. 
 
 Edward Stanford has on sale at all times the best English and Foreign Maps, 
 Handbooks, and Railway Guides, Pocket Dictionaries, and Conversation Books. 
 
 THE FOLLOWING CATALOGUES, 
 
 Embracing various portions of EDWARD STANFORD'S Stock, may be had 
 
 upon application. 
 
 < 1.— Ordnance IVIaps.— Catalogue of the ORDNANCE MAPS, published under the 
 superintendence of LiEnT.-CoLONEL James, R.E., Superintendent of the Ordnance 
 Surveys. 
 
 2.— Geological Survey Maps.— Catalogue of the GEOLOGICAL MAPS, 
 SECriO.NS and MEMOIRS of the GEOLOGICAL SURVEY of GREAT BRI- 
 TAIN and IRELAND, under the superintendence of Sir Roderick I. MuRcni- 
 SON, Director-General of the Geological Surveys of the United Kingdom. 
 
 3.— Geologrical Maps.— Catalogues of the best GEOLOGICAL MAPS of various 
 parts of the World. 
 
 4.— General Catalogue.— General Cabilogue of Atlases, Maps, Charts, Plans 
 &c., English and Foreign, including the Trigonometrical Surveys of various 
 States. 
 
 5.— XTseful Knowledge Maps.— Catalogue of Atlases, Maps, and Plans, en- 
 graved under the superintendence of The Society for the Diffusion op 
 Useful Knowi.kdoe. 
 
 " 6.— Admiralty Charts.— Catalogue of Charts, Plans, Views, and Sailing Direc- 
 tions, &c., published by order of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiraltt, 
 178 pages royal 8vo., piice Is. 6d. 
 
 7. — VTar Department.— Catalogue of the Plans, Maps, and Drawings, issued by 
 The War Defartment, and sold by Edward Stanford. 
 
 8,— Educational.— Catalogue of Educational Atlases and Maps, recently published 
 by Edward Stanford. 
 
 9.— Emigration.— A List of Publications on the British Colonies and the United 
 
 States, sekctid from the Stock of Edward Stanford. 
 
 XO. — Johnston's Maps. — Johnston's List of Geographical and Educational Works, 
 compiisiiig Atlases, Maps, Globes, &c., sold wholesale and retail by Edward 
 Stanford. 
 
 11.— Guide-Books for Tourists.— Catalogue of Guide-Books, Maps, Plans, 
 Dictionaries, and Conversation-Books, &c., for Tourists and Travellers. 
 
 LONDON: EDWARD STANFORD, 6, CHARING CROSS.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 31 
 
 TO TOURISTS & TRAVELLERS, 
 
 Visitors to the Sea Coast, and to those who 
 enjoy the Promenade, the Ride and Drive. 
 In ail cases, fervid heat, and its concomitant, 
 dust, materially injure the skin, producing 
 sunburn, tan, freckles, and discolourations of 
 an almost indelible character. To obviate 
 and eradicate these baneful results, recourse 
 may with confidence be had to 
 
 ROWLANDS' KALYDOR, 
 
 an Oriental botanical preparation. Whether 
 resorted to in its specific character as a tho- 
 rough purifier of existing defects of an erup- 
 tive nature, and discolourations of the skin, 
 or as a preserver and promoter of its already 
 bright and glowing tints, this 
 
 ELEGANT TOILETTE REQUISITE 
 
 has in every instance maintained its claim to 
 the title of " THE UNFAILING AUXI- 
 LIARY OK FEMALE GRACE." During 
 Summer and Autumn the invigorating and 
 refreshing properties of Rowlands' Kalydou 
 will be found singularly agreeable to 
 
 i.ii.x>ii:s TaiivEi.i.iiirG ; 
 
 the effects produced by temporary exposure 
 to solar heat upon the Face, Neck, Arms, 
 and Hands being neutralized, and the cloud 
 induced by relaxation and languor dispelled 
 by its power of sustaining a perfect elasticity 
 of the Skin ; without which certain deteriora- 
 tion takes place ; — thus, in the usual periodical 
 visits made to the coast, Rowlands' Ka lvdor 
 is indispensable as a preservative of the Skin 
 after SEA BATHING, from the irritation 
 caused by the chemical action of saline 
 vapour. Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per bottle. 
 
 GALIGNANPS 
 
 >j rii 
 
 The heat of summer also frequently com- 
 municates a dryness to the hair, and a ten- 
 dency to fall off, which may be completely 
 obviated by the use of 
 
 ROWLANDS' MACASSAR OIL, 
 a delightful fragrant and transparent pre- 
 paration, and as an invigorator and purifier 
 beyond all precedent. 
 
 Nor at this season can we be too careful 
 to preserve the Teeth from tlie deleterious 
 effects of vegetalile acids (the immediate 
 cause of toothache), by a systematic employ- 
 ment, night and morning, of 
 
 ROWLANDS' ODONTO, 
 
 OB, PEARL DENTlyRICE. 
 
 a 'Wbite Powder, compounded of the rarest 
 and most fragrant exotics. It bestows on 
 the Teeth a pearl-like whiteness, frees them 
 from Tartar, and imparts to the Gums a 
 healthy firmness, and to the Breath a grateful 
 sweetness and purity. 
 
 Sold by A. Roicland and Sons, 20, nation 
 Garden, London, and by Chemists and Fer- 
 furriers. 
 
 Beware of Spurious Imitations ! ! ! 
 
 The only genuine of each bears the name 
 of "ROWLANDS'" preceding that of the 
 article on the Wrapper or Label. 
 
 Compiled from tlie best authorities, re- 
 vised and verified by personal inspection, 
 and arranged on an entirely new plan, 
 with Map and Plates. Roval 18mo. 
 10s. 6c?. bound ; or without Plates, 7s. 6d. 
 bound. 
 
 London : SiiiPKiN, Marshall, & Co. 
 
 GERMAN LANGUAGE AND 
 
 LITERATURE 
 
 Taught on Ahn's celebrated System by 
 HERRN OSCAR VON WEGNERN. 
 
 Twelve Lessons for Travelling. 
 
 4, Sydney Street, Brompton, S.W., 
 
 at a short distance from 
 BELGRAVE SQUARE. 
 
 Lake of Geneva. 
 PENSION MASSON, 
 
 Situated within half a mile of the 
 Castle of Chillon, will be found in 
 every respect an extremely comfort- 
 able and well-regulated establish- 
 ment. Terms, very moderate. The 
 surpassing beauty of the surround- 
 ing scenery is universally admitted ; 
 and not only has the locality its 
 undeniable attractions for summer 
 visitors, but as a winter residence 
 it is no less desirable ; its remark- 
 ably sheltered position, protected 
 as it is from the north and east, ren- 
 dering its climate truly delightful.
 
 32 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 WORKS ON THE FINE ARTS. 
 
 The following are now Ready. 
 
 HE TEEASURES OF ART : Being an Account of the 
 
 Chief Collections of Paintings, Sculptures, Drawings, &c., in Great Britain. 
 By Dr. WaAGEN. Ind Thousand. 4 vols. Svo. 
 
 KUGLER'S HANDBOOK OF PAINTING: tlie Italian 
 
 Schools. Edited, with Notes, by Sir Charles Eastlake, R.A. Third 
 Edition. With 150 Illustrations. " 2 vols. Post Svo. 30s. 
 
 THE EAELY FLEMISH PAINTERS: their Lives and 
 Works. By J. A. Crowe and G. B. Cavaselle, Woodcuts. Post Svo. 12s. 
 
 A HANDBOOK FOR YOUNG PAINTERS. By C. R. 
 
 Leslie, R.A. With Illustrations. Post Svo. 10s. Gd. 
 
 HANDBOOK OF ARCHITECTURE : Being a Concise and 
 
 Popular Account of the different Styles of Architecture prevailing in all Ages 
 and all Countries. By James Fergusson. Zrd Thousand. With 850 Illus- 
 trations. 2 vols. Svo. 36s. 
 
 A BIOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF ITALIAN 
 
 PAINTERS. Edited by R. N. WoRNUM. With a Chart. Post Svo. Gs. 6d. 
 
 LIFE OF THOMAS STOTHARD, R.A. By Mrs. Bray. 
 
 With 70 Illustrations. Small 4to. 
 
 MEDIAEVAL AND MODERN POTTERY. By Joseph 
 
 Marryat. With Coloured Plates and 24-0 Woodcuts. Medium Svo. 31s. 6d. 
 
 ANCIENT POTTERY : Egyptian, Assyrian, Greek, Etrus- 
 can, and Roman. By Samuel Bircu, F.S.A. With Coloured Plates and 
 200 Woodcuts. 2 vols. Medium Svo. 42s. 
 
 AN ILLUSTRATED HANDBOOK OF THE ARTS OF 
 
 THE MIDDLE AGES AND RENAISSANCE. By M. J. Labarte. 
 With 200 Woodcuts. Svo. 18s. 
 
 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS, Historical and Romantic. 
 
 Translated by J. G. Lockhart. With Coloured Borders, Woodcuts, &c. 4to. 
 
 HORACE ; HIS LIFE AND WORKS By Dean Milman. 
 
 With 300 Illustrations from the Antique. Svo. 30s. 
 
 THE ILLUSTRATED PRAYER-BOOK. With Borders, 
 
 Initial Letters, and Illustrations from the Old Masters. Svo. 21s. 
 
 THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS; their Private Life, Man- 
 ners and Customs. By Sir J. G. Wilkinson. With 500 Woodcuts. 2 vols. 
 Post Svo. 12s. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
 
 MUKKAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 
 
 SUNSET ANY HOUR. 
 
 SCENERY, however extensive, viewed through the IMITATION SUNSET 
 GLASSES, appears as if glowing in a beautiful Sunset. Invaluable little boons for 
 viewing Scenery. It is better to use two Glasses — one to each eye. Post-free by return : 
 the Pair, 36 stamps ; in best black or white ivory, 60 stamps. Single Glass, 18 and 30 stamps. 
 
 G. T. MORTON, ISLINGTON GREEN, LONDON, N. 
 
 These Glasses have a most beautiful effect at the Crystal Falace, inside and outside the Palace. 
 
 MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY. 
 
 NOTICE. 
 
 r\ E. MUDIE has the pleasure to announce that the altera- 
 • tions in progress at his Library are now stilBciently advanced to 
 provide increased accommodation for the Subscribers and greater facilities 
 for the rapid exchange of books. The supplies of the higher class of works, 
 for the circulation of which the Library was originally established, are also 
 largely increased, and will be fiu-ther augmented by the addition of more 
 than One Hundred Thousand Volumes in the course of the present and 
 ensuing season. 
 
 509, 510, & 511, New Oxford Street, 
 
 AND 20 & 21, Museum Street, London. 
 May, 1858. 
 
 MESSRS. TURISTER AND ADAMS, 
 
 Foreign Office Passport Agents, 65, King Street, Downing Street, 
 
 London, 
 
 EROM their thorough knowledge of the business and close proximity to the Foreign OfiSce, 
 are enabled to transact all business connected with obtaining Passports and Visas with 
 great despatch and entire satisfaction to their employers. 
 Visas One Shilling each. Passports mounted in the best manner. 
 Murray's Handbooks, Bradsbaw's Guides, Maps, &c, supplied to order. 
 
 California, Mexico, Central America, Peru., Chili, Australia, 
 
 and New Zealand. 
 
 The shortest route to all Ports on the West Coast of North and South America, as also to 
 Australia and New Zealand, is that vid the 
 
 PANAMA RAILWAY. 
 
 In Two Hours and a Half from the Atlantic to the Pacific ! 
 Through fare, 25 dollars; children under twelve, half-price — under six, quarter price. 
 Passengers allowed 501bs. of luggage; all above that weight 10 cents per lb. Express 
 freight for Passenger trains 1 dollar 80 cents per cubic foot. First-class freight, comprising 
 Merchandise, in fisxes and bales, 50 cents per cubic foot; second-class, li cent per lb.; 
 third-class, 1 cent per lb. ; fourth-class, i cent per lb. ; fifth-class, i cent per lb. ; sixth, 
 i cent per lb. The Steamers of the Royal Mail Company leave Southampton fortnightly 
 for Aspinwall, and steam communication is maintained by the Pacific Mail Company 
 between Panama and California, Mexico, Peru, and Chili, and by the Railway Company 
 between Panama and Central America. The SALADIN Steamer also sails regularly from 
 Liverpool — apply to Mr. Holt ; and sailing vessels from London — apply to Messrs. Oswald, 
 Fitze, and Co. For further particulars apply to the London Agent of the Company, — 
 
 9, NEW PALACE YARD, LONDON.
 
 34 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 OFFICIAL 
 
 BY GEOEGE MEASOM. 
 
 UNIFORM PRICES. 
 
 In Wrapper, Is. ; or, in Cloth, Elegantly Bound, with Maps, 2s. 
 COUTH-EASTERN RAILWAY AND ITS BRANCHES. 
 
 ^ 200 Engravings. 
 
 "Tliis, without exception, is the cheapest work ever Issued. How a book with 200 
 Engravings, all original, over 400 pages of letterpress, and a splendid Map, can be issued 
 for a shilling will ever remain to us a mystery. Of course all our readers will, if possible, 
 obtain a copy."— Serald. 
 
 W. H. Smith and Son, London Bridge and all Stations. 
 THE NORTHERN RAILWAY OF FRANCE, including 
 
 J- SIX DAYS IN PARIS. 100 Engravings and magnificent Map. 
 
 W. H. Smith and Son, London Bridge and all Stations; A. Hall, 
 Virtue, & Co., 25, Paternoster Row, London. 
 
 The Two Books together, bound and gilt, 2s. 6ci. 
 
 THE GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY & its BRANCHES, 
 
 -L KING'S CROSS TO YORK. 90 Engravings. 
 
 " The Official Guide-book to the Great Northern Railway (Smith and Son, 
 Strand), compiled and illustrated with 90 engravings by the fertile pencil of George 
 Measom, is one of those amusing and indispensable companions for a long journey which 
 beguiles its tedium, satisfies the curiosity, instructs, amuses, and delights in so eminent a 
 degree, that in itself, and apart from its obvious uses, it cannot fail to be a reaUy inter- 
 esting book." — Despatch, Dec. 185t. 
 
 " We have found profit and pleasure in it" — Athenaum. 
 
 W. H. Smith and Son, King's Cross and all Stations. 
 
 THE SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY and its BRANCHES, 
 
 -L including A TOPOGRAPHICAL ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 80 
 Engravings. 
 
 "The OFFiCLiL Illustrated Guide to the London and South- Western Railway, by 
 G. Measom, is quite a mar\<el in its way, on the score of cheapness, and will no doubt be 
 most acceptable, not only to people travelling on the line, but to those who take an Interest 
 in the localities through which it passes. Considering that a tourist without a guide-book 
 is somewhat in the predicament of a sportsman in search of game without his gun, the 
 writer has explored every nook and corner of the London and South-Westem Line, and 
 given the public the result of his labours in the capital shilling volume before us. It is 
 uell printed on excellent paper, and illustrated with icood engravings of more than average 
 merit." — Illtistrated Times, July 5th, 1856. 
 
 W. H. Smith and Son, Waterloo and all Stations. 
 
 Mr. George Measom will feel obliged for any local information of public general interest 
 for embodiment in future editions of the above works. 
 74. Chai-rington Street, St. Pancras, London, N.W, June, 1858.
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35 
 
 OFFICIAL 
 
 BY GEOEGE MEASOM. 
 
 UNIFORM PRICES. 
 
 In Wrapper, Is. ; or, in Cloth, Elegantly Bound, with Maps, 2s. 
 ^OETH-WESTERN E AIL WAY AND ITS BRANCHES. 
 
 -'-' 70 Engravings. 
 
 " It is certainly the most perfect Railway Guide that has yet appeared. As an ' official ' 
 work it has authority when speaking of the history and statistics of the line. The other 
 information conveyed in it will be found not merely interesting, but suggestive. The pages 
 afford abundant matter for thought and conversation ; and though all Is done briefly, yet all 
 is done well. Few books descriptive of tours contrive to tell so much. The plan here 
 followed is to take the main tnmk line from London to Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, 
 and other great towns, as a basis ; describing all that is worthy of description by the way, 
 and conducting the traveller along each branch as the points are arrived at where each 
 branch diverges from the trunk." — AthencBum. 
 
 " The Official Guide to the London and North-Western Railway is richly illustrated, and 
 will be fomid a very useful Handbook." — The Builder. 
 
 W. H. Smith and Son, Euston and all Stations on the Line. 
 A New and Enlarged Edition in Progress, 
 
 pREAT WESTERN RAILWAY AND ITS BRANCHES 
 
 vT 50 Engravings. 
 
 "The Illustrations are numerous, correct, and wc"! ex-^cnted, and the Information is 
 ample, accurate, and carefully conveyed. It it worthy of patronage." — Sunday Times. 
 
 " This is a little book which every traveller on the Great Western Railway should obtain. 
 We feel great pleasure in saying a capital idea has been most ably carried out." — Morning 
 Advertiser. 
 
 Marshall and Sons, Paddington Station. 
 
 THIRD EDITION OF 
 
 THE BRIGHTON AND SOUTH-COAST RAILWAY, 
 
 J- Including a DESCRIPTIVE GUIDE TO THE CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM, 
 and A TOPOGRAPHICAL ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 60 Engravings, 
 
 " The fact that this is the third edition of this Guide needs only to be recorded to show 
 the appreciation, on the part of the public, of the author's labours. The manual deserved no 
 less. It contains a great amoimt of interesting matter within small auj convenient compass, 
 and is illustrated by some excellent woodcuts." — Athenceum. 
 
 Connelly, Brighton Terminus, London Bridge ; 
 Waterlow and Sons, London Wall ; and all Stations on the Line. 
 
 %* Shortly will be issued an entirely New Edition of thit tan-k, uniform with the South- 
 Eastern Railway Guide. 
 
 Mr. George Measom will feel obliged for any local information of public general interest 
 for embodiment in future editions of the above works. 
 74, CharringUm Street, St. Pancras, London, N.W. June, 1868.
 
 36 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 LEE'S 
 Polyglot 
 Washing 
 
 Books, 
 
 (To save Travellers 
 the trouble of trans- 
 lating their Washing 
 Bills) 
 
 For Ladies. 
 
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 English <fe French. 
 English cfc Italian. 
 English dk German. 
 English <fc Spanish. 
 English <fc Portuguese. 
 Is. each. 
 
 Metallic Soap 
 £oxes. 
 
 Obtained through the medium of 
 Bankers' Letters, carefully mounted 
 and inserted in morocco cases, with 
 name lettered in gold. 
 
 Ambassadors' Signatures obtained 
 to British Secretary of State's and 
 American Passports, at One Shilling 
 each. 
 
 The latest editions of all Mcrbat's 
 Eans-Booes. 
 
 CO0BIERS, or Travelling Servants, 
 can be obtained at 
 
 Foreign Letter 
 Paper, 
 
 ExtTU Large Size, 
 
 VKBY THIN, 
 
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 BERRY'S PATENT 
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 LEE & CARTER'S GUIDE DEPOT, 
 
 440, WEST STEAND, W.C. 
 
 TWO DOORS WEST OF LOWTHER ARCADE, 
 
 Where an extensive Collection of Guides, Hand-Books, Maps, DicnoNAHrES, Dia- 
 logues, Gbaiimars, Intebpbeters, &c., useful for Travellers upon the Continent and 
 elsewhere, and much useful information conceniiug Passports, can be obtained. 
 
 MURRAY'S HAND-BOOKS, rendered convenient Pocket-Books by J. Lke's limp 
 
 leather binding, at 2s. additional charge. 
 
 MOROCCO and RUSSIA PORTABLE ROLL-DP CASES, containing every essential for 
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