* LEWIS AND CLARKE'S TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS In % TataxB 1804,-5,~6; AS RELATED BY PATRICK G A SS , ONE OF THE OFFICERS IN THE EXPEDITION. New Edition with Numerous Engravings, PUBLISHED BY ELLS, CLAFLIN ? & CO. #= Entered according to act of Congress by a5c:at^^ k _Jcr'jBL-,-jB:j^Kr 9 In, the year 1846, in the District Court of Ohio. 01 OF the various publications which unite amusement and infor- mation, few can be justly held in higher estimation than the Journals and Narratives of Travelers and Voyagers; and in our highly favored country, the diffusion of general knowledge, the enterprizing spirit of the people, their commercial pursuits and habits of emigration, render such works particularly valuable and interesting; while the vigorous and unrestrained mind of the free American, by amplifying and embellishing the scenes presented to its view, enjoys the choicest luxuries of the entertainment they are calculated to afford. If it is conceded that discoveries made in North America are more important to the people of the United States than those made elsewhere, it will not be difficult to shew that none could have been made of so much importance to them in any part of the world as in the large tracts of country through which the late expedition, under the command of Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke, passed. For, if we take a view of the different discoveries and settlements previously made, we will find that those tracts through which the Missouri and Columbia rivers and their branches flow, commonly called unknown regions, were the only parts remaining unexplored, which could be considered valu- able. The first discovery of the Western World by Europeans of which we have any authentic accounts, being near the southern extremity of North America, drew, as might be expected, their attention to that quarter; and the range which this grand discov- ery excited for other enterprizes of the same nature, the avidity with which avarice was stimulated to seize the precious metals, known to exist in those parts, the means held out for gratifying ambition; and the prospects of a lucrative commerce, with many other objects and considerations tended largely to extend them, while the diminution of the Northern Continent to a narrow isthmus, and its large gulfs, bays, and rivers, furnished and facilitated the means of exploring it. The spirit of enterprize, however, was not confined to the southern extremity; but extend- ing itself to the climates congenial with those which it had left, and connecting with its researches the planting of colonies, im- portant discoveries were made along the Atlantic coasts. In the mean time the project of discovering a north west passage to the East Indies led the boldest naval commanders of Europe through the inland seas, bays, and straits of the north; and at length pro- duced surveys of the shores of the Pacific. To these discoveries, and those occasionally made during the settlement of the country within the limits of the United States and in Canada, the Hudson's Bay Company, though not famed for enterprize, added something to the stock of general information, and by their establishments aided others in their enterprizes. Mr. Hearne, under the direction of this company, in an expedition which lasted from the 7th of December 1770 to the 30th of June 1772, proceeded from Prince of Wales' Fort, on the Churchhill River in latitude 58 47imu north, and longitude 94 7m. west of Greenwich, or 19 9 west of Philadelphia, to the mouth of the Coppermine River, which, according to some accounts, is in latitude 72 north, and longitude 119 west from Greenwich, or 44 west of Philadelphia: but is laid down by others to be in latitude about 69 north, and longi- tude 112 g west from Greenwich or 37 9 west from Philadelphia. vi PREFACE. Whatever the confined views and contracted policy of the Hudson's Bay Company may, however, have omitted in the way of discovery, the enterprize and perseverance of the Canadian traders, some- time since united under the name of the North West Company, have amply supplied. Prior to the year 1789, they had extended their discoveries and establishments along the numerous lakes and rivers situated north of that high tract of country which divides the Missouri waters from those which run towards the north and east, to within a short distance of the Rocky Mountains. In the summer of this year Mr. M'Kenzie made a voyage from Fort Chepewyan on the Lake of the Hills in latitude 58 40m. north, and longitude 1 J Q 30m. west from Greenwich or 35 22m. west from Philadelphia, by the way of the Slave River, Slave Lake, and a river by which this lake discharges its waters (since called M'Kenzie's River) to the mouth of that river where it falls into the North Sea, in latitude 69 14m. north and longitude 135 west from Greenwich, or 59 52m. west from Philadelphia. He again in the year 1 783 penetrated from an establishment on the Peace River in latitude 56 9m. north, and longitude 117 35m. west from Greenwich, or 41 27m. west from Philadelpdia, to the Pacif- ic ocean in latitude 52 24m. north, and longitude 128 e 2m. west from Greenwich, or 52 Q 54m. west from Philadelphia. By the discoveries alluded to, and those occasionally made during the rapid settlement of the country and the progress of enterprize, the principal divisions of this Northern Continent has been explored and become known. The line separating these from the parts which remained unexplored and unknown, may be con- sidered as commencing at the Pacific Ocean in latitude about 38S north, and running along the high-lands and mountains between the waters which fall into the gulfs of California and Mexico and those which fall into the Missouri River, and continuing in that direction to the Mississippi; thence up the River to the source of its highest northwestern branch; thence along the high tract of country which divides the waters of the Missouri from those which fall into Hudson's Bay and the North Sea; from whence it will continue across the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean in lati- tude about 52 north. To the south of this general division line, the known countries will be Old and New Mexico and ft part of Louisiana, to the southeast, West and East Florida; to the east, PREFACE. vii the United States; to the northeast, Canada, the Labrador country, part of New South Wales and of other countries round Hudson's Bay: and to the north, part of New South Wales, New North Wales, the Athabasca and other countries containing the establish- ments of the Hudson's Bay and North West Companies, and those explored by Hearne and M'Kenzie: leaving unknown and unex- plored (except so far as the surveys made by navigators of the coast of the Pacific, and the imperfect accounts of traders who have ascended the Missouri have furnished information) all that large intermediate tract, containing in breadth about 1800 miles, and by the way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers nearly twice that distance. This tract from its situation may be supposed to contain the chief part of those lands in the great western division of the continent of North America fit for tillage; and this circumstance will, therefore, in a special manner claim the attention of an agri- cultural people, render more interesting a description of them, and attach additional value to the history of the country. It will not be forgotten that an immense sum of treasure has been expend- ed in the purchase of this country, and that it is now considered as belonging to the United States. Here, at no distant period, settle- ments may be formed; and in a much shorter term than has elapsed eince the first were made in America, from which hath arisen a great, powerful, and independent nation, the posterity of the pres- ent inhabitants of the Union may unfurl the standard of independ- ence on the plains of the Missouri and Columbia. With respect to the accuracy of the relations given in the follow- ing pages, it may be necessary to inform those readers not acquaint- ed with the fact, that the principal object in sending out the expedition was to gain some correct account of the country; and that this might be done more effectually, and the information col- lected, preserved with more certainty, it was enjoined upon the several persons belonging to the corps, who were considered capable, to keep journals, and every necessary information and assistance given them for that purpose. These journals were also from time to time compared, corrected, and any blanks, which had been left, filled up, and unavoidable omissions supplied. By thus multiply- ing the journals revising and correcting them, the chances of securing to the country a true account of the progress of the discoveries which should be made, especially should the party be viU PREFACE. attacked and defeated by the savages, or meet with any other disas- ters in their hazardous enterprize, were also multiplied. The following is an extract of a certificate delivered by Captain Lewis to Mr. Gass, dated St. Louis, Oct. 10, 1806. " As a tribute justly due to the merits of the said Patrick Gass, " I with cheerfulness declare, that the ample support, which he "gave me under every difficulty, the manly firmness which he "evinced on every necessary occasion, and the fortitude with " which he bore the fatigues and painful sufferings incident to that "long voyage, entitles him to my highest confidence and sincere "thanks, while it eminently recommends him to the consideration "and respect of his fellow citizens." In determining the form in which the work should appear, the publisher had some difficulty. Two plans presented themselves. The one was to preserve the form of a daily journal (in which the original had been kept) and give a plain description of the coun- try and a simple relation of occurrences equally intelligible to all readers; leaving to every person an opportunity of embellishing the scenes presented to him in his own way. The other plan was to more fully digest the subject, make the narrative more general* and, assuming less of the journal form and style, describe and clothe the principal parts of it as his fancy might suggest. However far the latter might have been proper had a foreign country been the subject, and the principal object of the publication, mere amuse- ment, many objections occurred to it in the present case, and rendered the former the most eligible, especially as by it the climate and face of the country will be more satisfactorily described. And Mr. Gass having declared that the beauties and deformities of its grandest scenes were equally beyond the power of description, no attempts have been made either by him or the publisher to give adequate representations of them. The publisher hopes that the curiosity of the reader will be in some degree gratified; that the information furnished will not be uninteresting; and that some aid will be furnished those who wish to acquire a geographical knowledge of their country. March 26, 1807. JOURNAL TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS CHAPTER I. ON Monday, the 14th, of May, 1804, we left our estab- lishment at the mouth of the River du Bois or Wood River, a small river which falls into the Mississippi, on the east side, a mile below the Missouri, and having crossed the Mississippi, proceeded up the Missouri on our voyage of discovery, under the command of Capt. Clark. Captain Lewis was to join us in two or three days, on our passage. The corps consisted of forty-three men, (including Captain Lewis and Captain Clark, who were to command the expedition, ) part of the regular troops of the United States, and part for this particular enterprize. The expedition was embarked on board a batteau and two periogues. The day was showery, and in the evening we encamped on the north bank six miles up the river. Here we had leisure to reflect on our situation, ajid the nature of our engagements, and, as we had all entered this service as volunteers, to consider how far we stood pledged for the success of an expedition which the government had projected, and which had been under- taken for the benefit and at the expense of the Union, of course of much interest and high expectation. The best authenticated accounts informed us, that we were to pass through the country possessed by numerous, powerful and warlike nations of savages, of gigantic stature, fierce, treacherous, and cruel; and particularly hostile to white men. And fame had united with tradi- tion in opposing mountains to our course, which human enterprize and exertion would attempt in vain to pass. 14 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE The determined and resolute character, however, of the corps, and the confidence which pervaded all ranks dispelled every emotion of fear and anxiety for the present ; while a sense of duty, and of the honour, which would attend the completion of the object of the expe- dition, a wish to gratify the expectations of the govern- ment and of our fellow citizens, with the feelings which novelty and discovery invariably inspire, seemed to insure to us ample support in our future toils, sufferings, and dangers. On the 15. We continued our voyage. It rained in the morning ; but in the afternoon we had clear weather, and encamped at night on the north side of the river. Wednesday 16. We had a fine pleasant morning; embarked early, and at 2 o'clock in the afternoon arrived at St. Charles, and fired a gun. A number of inhabi- tants came to see us. This is an old French village, in the country around which, a number of Americans have settled. We remained at St. Charles until the 21st, where Captain Lewis arrived from St. Louis and joined us. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we left this place under a salute of three cheers from the inhabitants, which we returned with three more and a discharge of three guns. This evening was showery, and we again encamped on the north side of the river. Tuesday 22. We continued our voyage; passed Bon- um Creek on the south side, and having made fifteen miles, encamped at the Cliffs on the north side of the river. Here we were visited by some Indians. Wednesday 23. At 6 o'clock in the morning we pro- ceeded on our voyage with pleasant weather. Passed the mouth of the Osage River on the south side, about a mile and a half below the Tavern Cove a noted place among the French traders. One mile above this is the Tavern Creek. We encamped this evening on the south side of the river, and had our arms and ammunition inspected. Thursday 24. We continued our voyage, and en- camped at night on the south side. This day our boat turned in a ripple, and nearly upset. AS RELATED BY PATERICK GASS. 15 Friday 25. We proceeded three miles and passed a creek on the south side, called Wood River; the banks of the river are here high and the land rich. Arrived at St. Johns, a small French village situated on the north side, and encamped a quarter of a mile above it. This is the last settlement of white people on the river. Saturday 26. This morning two of our people set out by land with a couple of horses. At seven we em- barked and had loud thunder and heavy rain; passed Otter Creek on the north side, and encamped near its mouth. Sunday 27. We passed Ash Creek where there are high cliffs on the south side, and at five in the afternoon arrived at the mouth of Gaskenade River. On the south side one of our party killed a deer. We encamped for the night on an island opposite the mouth of Gaskenade River. This is a very handsome place, a rich soil and pleasant country. Monday 28. Our provisions and stores were put out to air and dry, and several of our men sent out to hunt. One of them killed a deer. The mouth of the Gasken- ade River is 157 yards wide. Tuesday 29. Seven men were sent out to hunt, six of whom returned. We waited here until 5 o'clock P. M. for the man who had not come in, and then pro- ceeded three miles, passing Deer Creek on the south side. A periogue and eight men had been left for the hunter who had not returned. Wednesday 30. ^fter experiencing a very disagreea- ble night, on account of the rain, we continued our voyage at seven o'clock A. M. and passed a cove where there were high cliffs on the north side opposite an island, called Mombran's Tavern. At twelve we had a heavy 'shower of rain, accompanied with hail ; passed a creek called Rush Creek, on the north side, and four miles futher, Mud Creek on the same side. Here the soil is good, with cotton wood, sycamore, oak, hickory, and white walnut, with some grape vines and an abund- ance of rushes. We halted and encamped at Grindstone Creek on the south side of the river. IS JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Thursday 31. We were obliged to remain at this encampment all day, on account of a strong wind from the west. An Indian man and a squaw came down the river with two canoes, loaded with fur and peltry, and remained with us all night. Some of our hunters went out and killed a deer. Friday, June 1, 1804. Before daylight we embarked and proceeded on our voyage ; passed Big Muddy Creek on the north side, and on the opposite side saw high banks. Two and a half miles higher up, we passed Bear Creek, and at four o'clock P. M. arrived at the Osage River ; where we remained during the evening and the next day. The Osage River is 197 yards wide at its confluence with the Missouri, which, at this place, is 875 yards broad. The country on the south side is broken, but rich, and the land on the other of a most excellent quality. The two men that went by land with the horses came to us here: they represented the land they had passed through as the best they had ever seen, and the timber good, consisting chiefly of oak, ash, hickory and black walnut. They killed in their way five deer. The periogue left at the mouth of Gaskenade River, came up with the man who had been lost. Here our hunters went out and killed three deer. The Osage nations of Indians live about two hundred miles up this river. They are of a large size and well proportioned, and a very warlike people. Our arms and ammunition were all in- spected here and found in good order. Sunday 3. Captain Lewis, with one of the men went out and killed a deer. At five in the afternoon we em- barked, and, having proceeded six miles, encamped at the mouth of Morrow Creek on the south side. Monday 4. We continued our voyage, and during the day broke our mast by steering too close to the shore. In the evening we encamped on the south side, near lead mines, when our hunters came in with seven deer. Tuesday 5. We passed Mine Creek on the south side, and Little Goodwoman Creek on the north : also the Creek of the Big Rock. We met two Frenchmen AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 17 in two canoes laden with peltry : passed a high cliff of rocks on the south side. The land about this place is good and well timbered. On the 6. We passed Saline Creek on the south side ; and on the 7th, the river of the Big Devil on the north ; and Big Goodwoman's Creek on the same side, where we encamped. Friday 8. We embarked and proceeded five miles, when we met four canoes loaded with fur and peltry: and passed the Mine River on the south side, which is 150 yards wide. The land here is also good and well timbered. Saturday 9. We passed the Prairie of Arrows and Arrow Creek on the' south side. This is a beautiful country and the land excellent. The Missouri is here only 300 yards wide, and the current very strong. Three miles further we passed Blackbird Creek on the north side, and encamped. This day going round some drift wood, the stern of the boat became fast, when she immediately swung round, and was in great danger; but we got her off without much injury. Sunday 10. We proceeded five miles, passed Deer-lick Creek on the north side ; and three miles further the Two Charlottes on the same side. The mouths of these two rivers are very near each other: the first 70 and the other 100 yards wide. We encamped on the south side of the river at a prairie, and remained there the whole of the next day, the wind blowing too violent for us to proceed. Tuesday 12. We set out early, and proceeded until five o'clock in the afternoon, when we met five periogues loaded with fur and peltry from the Sioux nation of Indians. We remained with the people to whom these periogues belonged all night; and got from them an old Frenchman, who could speak the languages of the dif- ferent nations of Indians up the Missouri, and who agreed to go with us as an interpreter. Wednesday 13. We proceeded early on our voyage; passed a small creek on the north side in a long bend of the river, and encamped at the mouth of Grand River on 2 18 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE the North side. This is as handsome a place as I ever saw in an uncultivated state. Thursday 14. At five o'clock in the morning we con- tinued our voyage. The river having risen during the night was difficult to ascend. At noon we passed some Frenchmen from the Poenese or Ponis nation of Indians, where they spent the last winter. In the eve- ning we passed Snake Creek on the north side and encamped on the same. Friday 15. We renewed our voyage at five in the morning, and had very rapid water. There is a beau- tiful Prairie on the south side and the land high. Mul- berries are in great abundance almost all along the river. We encamped on the north side, opposite an old Indian village. Saturday 16. Three men went out this morning to look for timber to make oars, but could find none suitable. On their return we continued our voyage; had cloudy weather and rapid water all day and encamped on the north side, Sunday 17. This morning was clear and at five we renewed our voyage. Having proceeded about a mile we halted to get timber for oars ; and while we remained here to make them our hunters came in and brought with them a handsome horse, which they had found astray. They also brought a bear, which they had killed. Monday 18. We remained here all day; and our hunters killed five deer and a bear. On the south side there is high land and a long prairie ; on the north the land is level and well timbered, with ash, sugar tree, black walnut, buck-eye, cotton wood and some other timber. Tuesday 19. We passed Tabo Creek on the south side, and a small creek on the north; and encamped on the south side opposite a small lake about two miles distant. Wednesday 20. At five in the morning we continued our voyage, passed Tiger Creek, a large creek that flows in from the north, and encamped on an island. The land along here is good on both sides of the river. On the 21. We had rapid water, and for about a AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 19 mile had to warp up our boat by a rope. A creek called Du Beau or Du Bois, falls in on the south side behind an island. We encamped in the evening on the south side. Friday 22. It rained hard from four to seven in the morning, when we continued our voyage. About twelve one of our men went out and killed a large bear. We encamped at a handsome prairie on the south side oppo- site a large creek, called the Fire-prairie, and which is 60 yards wide. Saturday 23. We set out at five in the morning; at twelve the wind blew so strong down the river that we were unable to proceed, and we encamped on an island and inspected the arms and ammunition. Captain Clarke went out with one of the men and did not return this evening. Sunday 24. We had a fine morning, embarked at five and pursued our voyage : at nine Captain Clarke came to us and brought with him two deer and a bear. We passed a creek on the south side called Depie. At twelve we stopped to jirk* our meat, and again proceeded at two; passed a creek on the north side and encamped on the south bank of the river. Monday 25. The morning was foggy, and at seven o'clock we pursued our voyage. The river here is nar- row with high land on the south side. We passed a creek on the south side called Labenile, and encamped on an island. Tuesday 26. We embarked and set out at five o'clock in the morning; passed a creek on the south side, called Blue-water. This afternoon we had some difficulty in passing a sand-bar, the tow-rope having broke ; but by the exertions of those on board, the boat was brought to shore without injury. We encamped on the south side on a point at the confluence of the Canzan, or Kanzas River with the Missouri. It was agreed to remain here during the 27th and 28th where we pitched our tents and built bowers in front of them. Canzan or Kanzas, is two hun- dred and thirty and a quarter yards wide, and navigable * Jirk is meat cut into email pieces and dried in the sun or by afire. Tho Indians cure and preserre their meat in this way with- out salt. 20 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE to a great distance. Our hunters killed four deer, and a young wolf, and caught another alive. In the afternoon of the 29th we again proceeded on our voyage, and encamped on the north side of the river. Saturday 30. The day was clear and we continued our voyage ; found high land on both sides of the river ; and passed a large creek on the north side, called Platt, fifty yards wide. We broke our mast and encamped on the south side, where there were the most signs of game I ever saw. Sunday July 1 , 1 804. We set out at five in the morn- ing, and having advanced twelve miles, encamped on an island opposite a prairie on the south side of the river. Monday 2. At sunrise we continued our voyage, and met a quantity of drift-wood which was carried down the stream ; this morning we passed a creek on the south side and encamped on the north -opposite an old French village and fort, but all vacant. Tuesday 3. We proceeded again at five, and continu- ed our voyage until twelve, when we .stoped at an old trading place on the south side of the river. There we found a grey horse ; but saw no appearance of any persons having lately encamped at that place. Wednesday 4. We fired a swivel at sunrise in honor of the day, and continued our voyage; passed a creek on the north side, called Pond Creek, and at one o'clock stopt to dine. One of our people got snake bitten, but not dangerously. After dinner we renewed our voyage, passed a creek on the north side, which we called INDE- PENDENCE, encamped on the north side at an old Indian village situated in a handsome prairie, and saluted the departing day with another gun. Thursday 5. We proceeded on our voyage at five in the morning; and found the land high on the south side. We went through a large bend full of sand bars where we had some difficulty in passing; and encamped on the south side at high prairie land. Friday 6. We set out early this morning; had a fine day, and made a good days voyage: and encamped on the south side, at Whippowil Creek. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 21 Saturday 7. At an early hour we proceeded on our voyage, passed a high handsome prairie on the north side, and killed a wolf and a large wood rat on the bank. The principle difference between it and the common rat is, its having hair on its tail. Sunday 8. We were under way this morning before daylight. The river here is crooked and narrow. At one we came to a large island, with only a small stream on the north side which we went up. A large creek called Nadowa flows in from the north ; and on this side we encamped. Monday 9. Early this morning we continued our voyage. It rained hard till twelve o'clock. We passed a creek on the south side, called Wolf Creek. The man that was snake bitten is become well. We encamped on the south side. Tuesday 10. We set out early this morning and had a fair day, and fair wind. There is a handsome prairie on the south side opposite an island. We encamped on the north side. Wednesday 11. We also embarked early this morn- ing; passed a creek on the north side, called Tarico, and halted at an island, opposite a creek called Moha on the south side of the river. Seven hunters went out to day and two of them brought in five deer. Here we found another horse on the bank of the river, supposed to have been left by a hunting party last winter. Two of our men, who had gone to hunt on the south side of the river, did not return at night. Thursday 12. We remained here this day, that the men, who were much fatigued, might take some rest. The hunters who had remained on the south side of the river all night, came in, but had killed nothing. Two more went to hunt on the north side and killed two deer. Friday 13. We were early under way this morning with a fair wind. The day was fine. We passed a creek on the north side, and having made twenty and a half miles, encamped on a large sand bar. Saturday 14. At day break it began to rain and con- tinued until seven when it abated, and we set forward : 22 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE but in a short time a gust of wind and rain came on so violent, that all hands had to leap into the water to save the boat. Fortunately this storm did not last long, and we went on to a convenient place and landed. Here we continued two hours and then proceeded. We saw some elk, but could not kill any of them ; passed a river on the north side, called Wash-ba-to-nan, and encamped on the south side. Sunday 15. We got under way at six o'clock; passed a creek on the south side; and gathered some ripe grapes, There is high land and prairies on this side. Captain Clarke and two men went by land. At the head of an island, called Elk island, we found some pummice stone among the drift wood. We passed a creek on the south side, called Na-ma-ha, and encamped on the same. Monday 16. Early in the morning we proceeded on our voyage opposite a prairie ; had a fine day and fair wind, and passed a long island, above which is a place where the bank has slipped into the river. There are high rocky cliffs on the south side, and hills and prairies on the north : on which side we encamped. The river here is two miles wide with rapid water. Two of our hunters met us here with two deer. Tuesday 17. We remained here all day; and one of our hunters killed three deer. Wednesday 18. Early this morning we prosecuted our voyage with a fair wind and pleasant weather. This is the most open country I ever beheld, almost one continued prairie. Two of our hunters went by land with the horses as usual. On the south side we passed high handsome banks or bluffs of red and blue strata; found some iron ore here, and encamped on the south side, where one of our hunters brought us two deer. Thursday 19. At sun rise we renewed our voyage, and passed a number of sand bars, and high land on the south side. Where we halted for dinner, we found a great quantity of cherries, called by some, choak cherries. We encamped for the night on an island of Willows. Friday 20. We embarked early; passed high yellow banks on the south side and a creek, called the Water- 24 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE. which-cries, or the weeping stream, opposite a willow island, and encamped on a prairie on the south side. Saturday 21. We set out early. It rained this morn- ing but we had a fine breeze of wind. There are a great many willow islands and sand-bars in this part of the river. At nine the wind fell, and at one we came to the great river Platte, or shallow river, which comes in on the south side, and at the mouth is three quarters of a mile broad. The land is flat about the confluence. Up this river live three nations of Indians, the Otos, Panis and Loos, or Wolf Indians. On the south side there is also a creek, called Butterfly Creek. Sunday 22. We left the river Platte and proceeded early on our voyage, with fair weather. There is high prairie land on the south side, with some timber on the northern parts of the hills. We came nine miles from the mouth of Platte Eiver, and landed on the willow bank. The hunters killed five deer and caught two beaver. Monday 23. Six men were sent out to make oars; and two to a nation of Indians up the Platte River, to inform them of the change of government in this coun- try, and that we were here ready to treat with them. Wo hoisted a flag, and sent them another. Our people were all busily engaged in hunting, making oars, dressing skins, and airing our stores, provisions and baggage. We killed two deer and caught two beaver. Beaver appear plenty in this part of the country. We continued here until the 27. On the 24th- there were some showers ; but during the remainder of the time there was clear weather. Our people were generally employed as before. The hunters killed five more deer; and the two men returned from the Indian village, with- out finding any of the natives. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 25 CHAPTER II. Friday 27. This forenoon we were engaged in load- ing the boats and preparing to start. At twelve we pro- ceeded with a fair wind, and pleasant weather; went twelve miles, and encamped on a handsome prairie on the south side. Saturday 28. We set out early ; had a cloudy morning ; passed some beautiful hills and prairies, and a creek called Round- Knob Creek, on the north side; and high bluffs on the south. We encamped on the north side. Here two of our hunters came to us, accompanied by one of the Oto Indians. Sunday 29. We embarked early, and continued our voyage. One of our Frenchmen went with the Indian to bring more of them to meet us at some convenient landing place. At twelve one of our hunters came in with a deer and some elk meat. We renewed our voy- age at three, passed a bank, where there was a quantity of fallen timber, and encamped on the north side. Monday 30. Our grey horse died last night. We set out early, and the hunters met us with a deer. At nine we came to some timber land at the foot of a high bluff and encamped there in order to wait for the Indians. At the top of the bluff is a large handsome prairie, and a large pond, or small lake about two miles from camp on the south side of the river. Two of our hunters went out and killed an animal, called a prarow, about the size of a groundhog and nearly of the same colour. It -has a head similar to that of a dog, short legs and large claws on its fore feet ; some of the claws are an inch and a half long.* Our hunters again went out, but did not return this day. Tuesday 31. One of our men went to visit some traps he had set, and in one found a young beaver, but little hurt and brought it in alive. In a short time *See Plate. 26 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE he went out again and killed a large buck. Two other hunters came in about twelve, who had killed two deer; but lost the horses. One of them with two other per- sons were sent out to hunt them, who returned at dark without finding them ; and supposed they had been stolen by the Indians. Wednesday August 1. 1804. Three of our men again went out to hunt the horses, but returned without them. They brought a deer, and two of our other hunters killed two more. Thursday 2. Some hunters went out this morning; and two of them returned with the horses and an elk they had killed. The others brought in two large bucks and a fawn. The Indians we expected came at dark; but our Frenchman was not with them. We supposed he had been lost. This place we named Council-Bluff, and by observation found to be in latitude 41 17' north. Friday 3. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke held a council with the Indians, who appeared well pleased with the change of government, and what had been done for them. Six of them were made chiefs, three Otos and three Missouris. We renewed our voyage at three o'clock; went six miles and encamped on the south side ; where we had a storm of wind and rain, which lasted two hours. Saturday 4. We were early under way this morning, and had a fair day. We passed a creek on the south side, which came out of ponds. One of our men went out this morning and did not return : another came to us and brought a deer. We encamped on the south side. Sunday 5. We set out early, but a storm of rain and wind obliged us to stop two hours. It then cleared and we continued our voyage ; passed prairies on both sides, and encamped on the north side. The river here is very crooked and winding. To arrive at a point only three hundred and seventy yards from this place, the passage by water is twelve miles. , Monday 6. We proceeded at an early hour this morning, after a stormy night of wind and rain ; passed a creek on the north side, at the back of an island, called Soldiers Creek; and encamped on the south side. 28 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Tuesday 7. We set out early this morning and con- tinued our voyage till twelve, when four of our people were dispatched to the Oto nation of Indians after the man who had not returned on the 4th, with orders to take him dead or alive, if they could see him. There is no timber in this country, except some cotton wood and willows in the bends of the river. All the high land is a continued prairie. We encamped on the north side. The musketoes here are very numerous and trouble- some. Wednesday 8. We embarked early, passed a small river on the north side, called Little Sioux. Captain Clarke and one of the men went out to hunt and killed an elk. One of the hunters killed a pelican on a sand bar, and Captain Lewis killed another very large. We encamped on the north bank. In the bag under the bill and neck of the pelican, which Captain Lewis killed, we put five gallons of water. Thursday 9. The fog was so thick this morning, that we could not proceed before seven, when we went on under a gentle breeze, and having advanced eleven miles, came to a place where the river by cutting through a narrow neck of land, reduced the distance fifteen miles. Captain Clarke and one of the men went out to hunt, and killed a small turkey. We encamped on the south side, where we found the musketoes very troublesome. Friday 10. We embarked early, passed high yellow banks on the south side, and encamped on the north. Saturday 11. A storm came on at three o'clock this morning and continued till nine; notwithstanding which, we kept under way till ten, when we came to a high bluff, where an Indian Chief had been buried, and placed a flag upon a pole, which had been set up at his grave. His name was Blackbird, king of the Mahas; an absolute monarch while living, and the Indians suppose can exer- cise the power of one though dead. We encamped in latitude 42 1 ' 3s. three, as ascertained by observation. Sunday 12. We embarked and got under way before daylight. The 'musketoes last night were worse than I ever experienced. We went around a bend, of AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 29 eighteen miles, the neck of which was only nine hundred and seventy four yards across; passed high bluffs of yellow clay on the south side of the river and low land on the north; and encamped on a sand Island. Monday 13. We proceeded this morning with a fair wind; and at two landed on a sandy beach, near the Maha village, on the south side of the river. A sergeant and one man were sent to the village, who did not return this day. Tuesday 14. The sergeant and man returned from the village ; but they had found no Indians there. Some of our hunters went out but killed nothing. Game appears scarce here. While at this place we provided ourselves with a new mast. Wednesday 15. Captain Clarke and ten of the party went to the Maha Creek to fish, and caught three hundred and eighty seven fish of different kinds. We discovered smoke on the opposite side of the river, and four men crossed to see if any of the Mahas or Sioux Indians were there ; but could not discover any. There had been fire there some days, and the wind lately blowing hard had caused the fire to spread and smoke to rise. We continued at this place until the 20th. Captain Lewis went with a party of twelve men to fish and took seven hundred and nine fish, one hundred and sixty seven of which were large pike. The fish here are generally pike, cat, .sun, perch and other common fish. What we caught were taken with trails or bush nets. On the 18th, the party who had been sent in pursuit of the man who had been absent since the 4th, returned with him, and eight Indians and a Frenchman ; but left our Frenchman be- hind who had gone out to hunt the horses. On the 19th, a council was held with these Indians, who appeared to wish to make peace with all nations. This day ser- geant Floyd became very sick and remained so all night. He was seized with a complaint somewhat like a violent colic. Monday 20. Sergeant Floyd continued very ill. We embarked early, and proceeded, having a fair wind and fine weather, till two o'clock, when we landed for SO JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE dinner. Here sergeant Floyd died, notwithstanding every possible effort was made by the commanding offi- cers, and other persons, to save his life. We went on about a mile to high prairie hills on the north side of the river, and there interred his remains in the most decent manner our circumstances would admit ; we then proceeded a mile further to a small river on the same side and encamped. Our commanding officers gave it the name of Floyd's River; to perpetuate the memory of the first man who had fallen in this important expedition. Tuesday 21. We set out early ; passed handsome pale coloured bluffs, Willow Creek and tlie Sioux River on the north side : and having come upwards of twenty miles, encamped on the south side. Wednesday 22. We proceeded early upon our voyage ; passed bluffs on the south side, where there is copperas, allum and ore of some kind; also passed a creek. The high land on the south side for nine or ten miles runs close to the river, where there are cedar bluffs of various colours. We encamped on the north side. Thursday 23. We proceeded early this morning with a fair wind. The river here becomes more straight than we had found it for a great distance below. Captain Clarke and one of the men killed a deer and a buffalo, and some of the men were sent to dress and bring the buffalo to the boat. We stoped at a prairie on the north side, the largest and handsomest, which I had seen. Captain Clarke called it Buffalo Prairie. The men having return- ed, we again went on ; but the wind changed and we were obliged to halt for the present. While we were detained here, we salted two barrels of buffalo meat. At five in the evening we proceeded some distance and encamped on the south side. Friday 24. This morning was"cloudy with some rain. Captain Clarke went by land. We passed cedar bluffs on the north side, a part of which were burning; and there are here to be found mineral substances of various kinds. There is also a quantity of small red berries, the Indian name for whiclvm English means rabbit berries. They are handsome small berries and grow upon -bushes about AS RELATED BY PATRICK GABS. 31 ten feet high. Captain Clarke came to us and had killed two elk and a fawn, we passed a creek called White-stone Creek ; landed and remained here all night to jirk our meat. Saturday 25. Two of our men last night caught nine catfish, that would together weigh three hundred pounds. The large catfish are caught in the Missouri with hook and line. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke went to see a hill on the north side of the river where the natives will not, or pretend that they will not venture to go, and say that a small people live there, whom they are afraid of. At eleven o'clock, the gentlemen not having returned, we set sail with a gentle breeze from the S. E. passed black bluffs on the south side, and continued on nine miles and encamped. Two of our hunters came in who had killed a large elk. Captains Lewis and Clarke did not return this evening. Sunday 26. Some of the men went out to dress and bring in the elk. About ten o'clock Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke with a party accompanying them came to camp; but had not been able to discover any of those small people. The hill is in a handsome prairie: and the party saw a great many buffalo near it. About eleven we renewed our voyage and passed some timber land on the South side ; and black and white bluffs on the same side, we encamped on the north side opposite a creek called Pettit-Ark, or Little-bow. Monday 27. Got under way at sunrise, and passed white bluffs on the south side. At two we stopped for dinner, and an Indian of the Mahas nation, who lives with the Sioux came to us here, at the mouth of the Sacque River; and while we remained here two more came in. A Sergeant with our old Frenchman and another man went with two of the Indians to their tamps, and the other went with us in the boat. We encamped on a sand beach on the north side. Tuesday 28. We set forward early. The day was pleasant, and a fair wind from S. E. At eight we halted for breakfast, when our young Indian left us to go to his oamp at a handsome prairie, gently rising from the river 32 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE on the north side ; a small distance above which are beautiful groves of Cotton wood on both sides of the river. About twelve one of the periogues run against a snag which broke a hole in it. We then crossed to the south side to mend the periogue, and to wait to receive the Indians we expected; and landed a little below some high bluffs. Our camp is in a wide bottom, in which are large elm and oak trees. Wednesday 29. At eight o'clock last night a storm of wind and rain came on from the north west, and the rain continued the greater part of the night. The morning was cloudy with some thunder. We are generally well supplied with Catfish, the best I have ever seen. Some large ones were taken last night. In the afternoon, the men who had gone to the Indian camp returned, and brought with them sixty Indians of the Sioux nation. They encamped for the evening upon the opposite shore, and some corn and tobacco were sent over to them. The sergeant who had gone to their camp informed me that their lodges, forty in number, are about nine miles from the Missouri on the Sacque River. They are. made of dressed buffalo and elk skins, painted red and white, and are very handsome. He said the women are homely and mostly old; but the young men likely and active. They killed a dog as a token of friendship. One of our men killed a deer. Thursday 30. A foggy morning, and heavy dew. At nine o'clock the Indians came over the river. Four of them, who were musicians, went backwards and for- wards, through and round our camp, singing and making a noise. After that ceremony was over they all sat in council. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke made five of them chiefs, and gave them some small presents. At dark Captain Lewis gave them a grained deer skin to stretch over a half keg for a drum. When that was ready they all assembled round some fires made for the purpose : two of them beat on the drum, and some of the rest had little bags of undressed skins dried, with beads or small pebbles in them, with which they made a noise. These are their instruments of music. Ten or twelve AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 33 acted as musicians, while twenty or thirty young men and boys engaged in the dance; which was continued during the night. No Squaws made their appearance among this party. Friday 31. A clear morning. The Indians remained with us all day, and got our old Frenchman to stay and go with their chief to the city of Washington. Some of them had round their necks, strings of the white bear's claws, some of the claws three inches long. CHAPTER III. Saturday Sept. 1, 1804. We renewed our voyage early; passed high bluffs on the south side, and high prairie land on the north ; on this side the hills come close to the river; and are so near on both sides, as not to be more than two miles from each other. During last night we had hard wind and some rain, which continues to fall occasionally during the day. About one o'clock we passed a rich prairie on the south side, and encamped on the north side, at the lower end of an island. Sunday 2. At one o'clock last night we had hard thunder, lightning and rain, which continued about two hours. We set out early in the morning, along the north side of the island: there is handsome prairie land on the south. Three of our men went on the island to hunt. When we landed for breakfast, we heard several guns fired on the island, and saw six elk swimming across the river about a mile above where we had halted. Two of our men went up and killed one of them ; those on the island killed three. About twelve, the wind blew so hard down the river, that we could not proceed, and we land- ed on the north side, where there is an extensive prairie. It was cloudy and rained till four, when it cleared up. We remained here for the night and dried our meat. On the bank opposite our camp is an ancient fortification 3 34 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE or breastwork similar to those which have been occasion- ally discovered on the western waters. The two ends run at right angles to the river, and the outside, which is twenty-five hundred yards in length, parallel to it: there is no breastwork thrown up next to the river, the bank as is supposed, serving as a sufficient defence on that side.* Monday 3. We set out early, and had a clear day; passed yellow bluffs on the north side, and a small creek, called Plum Creek. Here the river turns at right angles to the left, till it reaches the hills on the south side, then winds gradually to the right. There is no timber in this part of the country ; but continued prairie on both sides of the river. A person by going on one of the hills may have a view as far as the eye can reach without any obstruction or intervening object; and enjoy the most delightful prospects. During this day's voyage we found the hills on the opposite sides of the river generally not more than two miles apart, and the river meandering through them in various directions. We encamped on the south side. Tuesday 4. We proceeded on our voyage, passed a creek on the south side about thirty yards wide, called Paint Creek; and high yellow bluffs on the same side. * The description of this Breastwork corresponds exactly with the accounts given of numerous ancient fortifications discovered in the Western Country, which are known and represented to be generally of an oblong form, situated on strong and well chosen ground, and contiguous to water. These works from the examina- tions which have been made, are supposed to have been erected more than one thousand years ago; or seven hundred before the discovery of America by Columbus. They appear to have existed about the same period, throughout all, or the greater part of that vast tract of Country bounded by the Alleghany Mountains on the East, and the Rocky Mountains on the West, and including the most favourable latitudes of North America. Perhaps some have been found East of the Alleghany Mountains. Have numerous ancient nations, more civilized and disposed to labor than any of the modern Indian tribes, inhabited this country? And have these fortifications been their humble substitutes for the walled and fortified cities of the old world in remote ages? Or, has this been the Roman Empire of the New World? And has it been destroyed by other hordes of barbarians, as fierce and cruel as those who destroyed that of the old. - i AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 35 About a mile and a half further we passed another creek on the same side 50 yards wide called White-paint Creek; and yellow bluffs on the north side. About four miles higher up, we passed a river, on the south side, 152 yards wide, called Rapidwater River: Up this river the Poncas nation of Indians lived not long since. We encamped on the south side among some cedar trees. Wednesday 5. We set sail early this morning with a fair wind, and had a clear day. We passed a long island covered with timber, and three men went to hunt on it. On the north side are yellow bluffs, out of which issue several beautiful springs. Opposite the head of the island, on the south side, flows in a river, called Pania River; and about three miles higher up, on the north side, a creek, called Goat Creek. On the hills above this creek, we saw some goats or antelopes, which the French call cabres. About four we encamped on an island, where we made and put in a new mast. The three men, who went to hunt on long island killed a deer and an elk ; and two more went out from camp and killed another deer and an elk, both young. Thursday 6. We set out early and had a cloudy morning: passed a handsome bottom prairie on the north side ; at the upper end of which is a grove of cotton wood, and a long range of dark coloured bluffs on the south side. About 9 o'clock it began to rain and we had strong wind ahead. There are a great number of sand bars, and we had much difficulty in getting along. We en- camped on the north side, and one of our men killed two deer. Friday 7. We set sail early, and had a clear day: passed high prairie land on both sides ; but there is some cotton wood on the low points in the bottoms. On the south side we found a scaffold of meat neatly dried. This had been left by one of our men, who had gone out on the 26th of last month to hunt the horses, and suppo- sing we had got a distance ahead, proceeded up the river several days journey, before he discovered his error. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke with some of the men went to view a round knob of a hill in a prairie, and on 36 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE their return killed a prairie dog, in size about that of the smallest species of domestic dogs. Having understood that the village of those small dogs was at a short distance from our camp, Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke with all the party, except the guard, went to it and took with them all the kettles and other vessels for holding water; in order to drive the animals out of their holes by pouring in water; but though they worked at the business till night they only caught one of them. Saturday 8. We proceeded early on our voyage, and had a clear day and a fair wind from the S. E. Passed the bed of a creek without water. At 9 o'clock 1 went out with one of our men, who had killed a buffalo and left his hat to keep off the vermin and beasts of prey; but when we came to the place, we found the wolves had devoured the carcass and carried off the hat. Here we found a white wolf dead supposed to have been killed in a contest for the buffalo. We passed high bluffs on the south side and a burnt prairie on the north. We encamped on an island covered with timber; and having a number of buffalo on it. Captain Lewis who had been out with some of the men hunting, informed us he had passed a trading house built in 1796. This day we killed two buffalo, a large and a small elk, a deer and two beaver. Sunday 9. We set out early, and passed two small creeks on the north side, high bluffs on the south, and at 1 o'clock landed for dinner at a small creek on the south side. One of our hunters brought in a deer and two fawns. This day we saw several gangs or herds, of buffalo on the sides of the hills: One of our hunters killed one, and Captain Clarke's black servant killed two. We encamped at sunset on the south side. Monday 10. We had a foggy morning, but moved on early; passed high bluffs on the north side, and saw some timber in the bottom on the south side. At 12 o'clock we came to black sulphur bluffs on the south side. On the top of these bluffs we found the skeleton or back bones of a fish, 45 feet long, and petrified: part of these bones were sent to the City of Washington. One of our sergeants discovered a large salt spring about a mile and a half from the river. A hunter went up the AS RELATED BT PATRICK GASS. 3T bank and killed an elk. We left a pcriogue for the men who were dressing the elk, and proceeded up the north side of the river two miles, when we were obliged to return on account of sand bars, and to take the south side. Here we saw eight elk swimming the river, and had seen a great many buffalo during the day. We encamped on an island and killed one buffalo. Tuesday 11. We set sail before day light with a fair wind ; passed an island covered with timber, and high hills and prairie on both sides of the river. At 1 o'clock it began to rain. We saw some person coming down the river on horseback, when we came to land and found it was the man who had proceeded us with the horses. He had left one of the horses that had failed. We now had only one horse left. This man had been absent sixteen days, and his bullets being expended, he subsisted twelve days almost wholly on grapes. The hills here come close to the river on both sides. One of the men went by land with the horse, and we continued our voyage, until night, though it rained very hard; and encamped on the south side. Captain Clarke with two or three of the men who had gone out to hunt, killed two elk, four deer and one porcupine. Wednesday 12. We set out as usual and had a cloudy day; passed a long range of black bluffs on the south side, and an island covered with timber, which is all the timber that can be seen from this place. The country round is all hills and prairie. Captain Clarke, myself and another went out to hunt, arid did not return until after dark. The boat had much difficulty in passing on account of the sand bars and strong current, and did not make to day more than four miles. Thursday 13. Four beaver were taken last night. We set sail early ; the morning was cloudy with some rain and wind ahead ; passed a creek and a long range of bluffs on the south side. Some of our men went out to hunt; but did not return this evening. We encamped on the north side. Friday 14. We proceeded as yesterday, and with the same kind of weather. Had considerable difficulty in getting along on account of the shallowness of the river; 38 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE all hands in the water dragging the boat. At eight we halted for breakfast, and the men who went to hunt yesterday came in, and had only killed a porcupine. Three beaver were caught last night. The musketoes are as troublesome as they have been any time in sum- mer. We passed black bluffs on the south side, and an island with timber on it. Passed a creek on the same side, and encamped on the south. The man who had gone by land with the horse came to us here ; had killed a hare. Captain Clarke killed a goat or antelope. Saturday 15. A cloudy morning. We continued our voyage early, and passed a creek on the south side and black bluffs on the north. Passed White Eiver on the south side; one of the men and myself went up it to examine the country, and encamped about twelve miles from the mouth, where it is 150 yards broad. We found good bottom on this creek ; but timber scarce, and none upon the hills. The current and the colour of the water are much like those of the Missouri. Sunday 16. We set out for the boat across the hills, on the tops of which are level plains with a great number of goats and buffalo on them. Came to the head waters of a creek, and kept down it a S. E. course, and on our way killed 3 deer. We proceeded on to its mouth, which I computed to be 14 miles from that of the White River. Having found the boat had passed, we proceeded up the river, and came to a handsome bottom, where our people had encamped to dry the provisions and stores. In our absence the men had killed some deer and two buffalo. Monday 17. As the weather was fair, we remained here during the day. Captain Lewis and some men went out to hunt, and killed thirteen common, and two black- tailed deer; three buffalo and a goat. The wild goat in this country differ from the common tame goat, and is supposed to be the real antelope. The black-tailed, or mule deer have much larger ears than the common deer and tails almost without hair, except at the end, whero there is a bunch of black hair. There is another species of deer in this country with small horns and long tails. The tail of one which we killed was 18 inches long. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 39 One of our men caught a beaver, and killed a prairie wolf. These are a small species of wolves, something larger than a fox, with long tails and short ears. Tuesday 18. We continued our voyage; the day was clear and pleasant: passed some timber land on the south side, and hills and prairies on the north ; also an island and a great number of sand bars. Yesterday Captain Lewis while hunting, killed a bird not common in the states : it is like a Magpie and is a bird of prey. This day we killed eleven deer and a wolf, and halted, and encamped on the south side of the river in order to jirk our meat. Wednesday 19. We set out early, and had a clear day passed large bottoms on both sides of the river covered with timber. We saw some buffalo swimming the river and killed two of them. There is an island here, oppo- site which a river flows in on the north side. This river is formed of three, which unite their waters just above its mouth ; and immediately above the confluence is a cross- ing place, called the Sioux crossing place of the three rivers. At the upper end, a creek, called Elm Creek, comes in on the south side, and two miles above another creek called Wash Creek, falls in on the same side. About two miles further we passed another creek called Night Creek, where we encamped on the south side. Three black tailed deer were killed this day. Thursday 20. We renewed our voyage at an early hour, and had a clear day and fair wind. Passed hand- some rising prairies on the north side, and bottoms covered with timber on the south side. Two of the men with the horse went across the neck of the Long, or Grand bend, which we were obliged to go around with the boat, a dis- tance of thirty miles. At 1 o'clock we stopped for din- ner, and Captain Lewis and one of the men went to hunt, Captain Clarke had gone out in the morning. At 2 o'clock we proceeded again on our voyage, and pass- ed a long chain of bluffs on the north side, of a dark colour. From these and others of the same kind, the Missouri gets its muddy colour. The earth of which they are composed, dissolves like sugar; every rain 40 AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 41 washes down great quantities of it, and the rapidity of the stream keeps it mixing and afloat in the water, until it reaches the mouth of the Mississippi. We encamped at 7 o'clock on a sand beach on the north side. Here Captain Lewis, Captain Clarke and the other man joined us. They had killed two goats and two deer. At one o'clock at night, the bank where we were stationed began to fall so much, that we were obliged to rouse all hands, and go on a mile and cross the river before we could again encamp. Friday 21. We set out early, the day was clear, and we proceeded on four miles along bluffs on the south side, when we came to the termination of the Grand Bend, about a mile from the place of our encampment on the 19th. We again went on, having black bluffs on the south, and a handsome bottom on the north side; and beyond these a cedar bottom on the south side, and bluffs on the north; passed a creek on the south side, called Tyler's Creek; and encamped on the north side. Saturday 22. We embarked early in a foggy morning, saw some timber on the south side, and high plains on the north. About 3 o'clock we passed Cedar Island, one of the Three-Sisters, where Mr. Lucelle had built a fort of cedar. The space picketed in is about 65 or 70 feet square, with centry boxes in two of the angles. The pickets are thirteen and a half feet above ground. In this square he built a house 45J by 32| feet, and divided it into four equal parts, one for goods, one to trade in, one to be used as a common hall, and the other for a family house. Here the two men came to us with the horse. They had killed a white wolf and some deer. We proceeded on, passed a creek, and islands of the Three-Sisters; and an old Indian camp, where we found some of their dog-poles, which answer for setting poles. The reason they are called dog-poles, is because the Indians fasten their dogs to them, and make them draw them from one camp to another loaded with skins and other articles.* We encamped on the north side. *Mr. Makenz'e speakingf of the Knisteneaui, a numerous nation of Indians spread over a vast extent of country extending south westerly from the coast of Labrador, north of the St. 42 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Sunday 23. We went on early, and had a clear morning; passed some timber on the north side, and high land on the south; also a creek on the north side called Smoke Creek; passed Elk Island, a handsome bot- tom on the north side covered with timber and barren hills on the south. At six in the evening we saw four Indians on the south side and encamped on the north. Three of the Indians swam over to us : they belonged to the Sioux, and enformed us that there were more of their nation not far distant. We sent them over the river again. One of our men killed an antelope. Monday 24. We set sail early with fair weather, and passed a small creek on the south side. About 3 o'clock the man who had gone by land with the horse came to us, and informed us that he had gone that morning on an island to kill elk, and that while he was there the In- dians had stolen the horse. He had killed three elk, and the periogues remained behind to bring on the meat. We saw five Indians on the bank, but we could not understand each other. We cast anchor to wait for the periogues; one of which having come up, we went on to the mouth of the Tinton or Teeton River, where we an- chored about 100 yards from the shore on the south side. The guard and cooks only landed, the rest slept in the boat. The five Indians remained with us all night. We had a Frenchmen aboard a periogue, who understood and could speak a little of the Sioux language. The Indians gave us to understand the chiefs would come to-morrow, and that if their young men had taken the horse, they would have him given up. These In- dians are a band of Sioux, called the Tinton or Teeton Band. Tuesday 25. We stayed here to wait for the Indians, who were expected to arrive at 10 o'clock, they came, about 50 in number. The commanding officers made three of them chiefs, and gave them some presents. Laurence and its Lakes and the Lake Winnipie, east of Elk River, south of the lake of the Hills, and west, south and east of James's Bay and the southern Part of Hudson's Bay, says, "In the winter when the waters are frozen, they make their journies, which are never of any great length, with sledges- drawn by dogs." General History of the Fur Trade. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 43 Five of them came on board and remained three hours. Captain Clarke and some of our men in a periogue went ashore with them ; but the Indians did not seem disposed to permit their return. They said they were poor and wished to keep the periogue with them. Captain Clarke insisted on coming to the boat; but they refused to let him, and said they had soldiers as well as he had. He told them that his soldiers were good, and that he had more medicine aboard his boat than would kill twenty such nations in one day. After this they did not threat- en any more, and said they only wanted us to stop at their lodge, that the women and children might see the boat. Four of them came aboard, when we proceeded on a mile, and cast anchor at the point of an island in the middle of the river. The Indians remained with us all night. Wednesday 26. We set out early, and proceeded on four miles. The bank of the river on the south side was covered all the way with Indians; and at 10 o'clock we met the whole band, and anchored about 100 yards from the shore. Captain Lewis, the chiefs, and some men went on shore, the Indians were peaceable and kind. After some time Captain Lewis returned on board, and Captain Clarke went on shore. When the Indians saw him coming they met him with a buffalo robe, spread it out and made him get into it, and then eight of them car- ried him to the council house. About an hour after some of them came for Captain Lewis, and he landed; and eight of them carried him to the council house in the same manner, they had carried Captain Clarke. They killed several dogs for our people to feast on, and spent the greater part of the day in eating and smoking. At night the women assembled, and danced till 1 1 o'clock: then the officers came on board with two chiefs, who continued with us until the morning. Thursday 27. We remained here all day. Captain Lewis, myself and some of the men went over to the Indian camp. Their Lodges are about eighty in number, and contain about ten persons each, the greater part women and children, The women were employed in 44 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE; dressing buffalo skins, for clothing for themselves and for covering their lodges. They are the most friend- ly people I ever saw; but will pilfer if they have an opportunity. They are also very dirty: the water they make use of, is carried in the paunches of the animals they kill, just as they are emptied, without being cleaned. They gave us dishes of victuals of various kinds; I had never seen any thing like some of these dishes, nor could I tell of what ingredients, or how they were made. About fifteen days ago they had a battle with the Mahas, of whom they killed seventy five men, and took twenty five women prisoners, whom they have now with them. They promised to Captain Lewis, that they would send the prisoners back and make peace. About 3 o'clock we went aboard the boat accompanied with the old chief and his little- son. In the evening Captain Clarke and some of the men went over, and the Indians made preparations for a dance. At dark it commenced. Captain Lewis, myself and some of our party went up to see them perform. Their band of music, or orchestra, was composed of about twelve persons beating on a buffalo hide, and shaking small bags that made a rattling noise, They had a large fire in the center of their camp; on one side the women, about eighty in number, formed in a solid column round the fire, with sticks in their hands, and the scalps of the Mahas they had killed, tied on them. They kept moving, or jumping round the fire, rising and falling on both feet at once; keeping a continual noise, singing and yelling. In this man- ner they continued till 1 o'clock at night, when we returned to the boat with two of the chiefs. On coming aboard, the periogue run across the bow of the boat and broke the cable. All hands were roused to row the boat ashore; the chiefs called aloud, and a number of the warriors came to our assistance, but we did not need it; the circumstance, however, shewed their disposition to be of service. This unfortunate accident lost to us our anchor. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 45 Friday 28. This morning we dragged the river all round where the boat lay, but could not find the anchor. At 9 o'clock we made preparations to sail; some of the chiefs were on board, and concluded to go some distance with us. When we went to shove off, some of the the Indians took hold of the rope and would not let it go. This conduct had like to be atten- ded with bad consequences, as Captain Lewis was near giving orders to cut the rope and to fire on them. The chiefs, however, went out and talked with them: they said they wanted a carrot of tobacco, and that if we gave that we might go. The tobacco was given them, and we went off under a gentle breeze of wind. We passed high land on the north side, and bottom on the south. We proceeded four miles, and then saw an Indian following us along the beach, when Captain Lewis, went in a periogue and brought him on board. He informed us that three hundred more Indians had come to their camp, and desired we should stop and talk with them. We did not then stop, but proceeded on, and he remained on board. We passed a fine bottom covered with timber on the north side, and bare hills on the south. We made two large stones serve the purpose of an anchor, and at sunset anchored for the night, near a small sand-bar in the middle of the river. While I was at the Indian camp yesterday they yoked a dog to a kind of car, which they have to haul their baggage from one camp to another; the nation having no settled place or village, but are always moving about.* The dogs are not large, much resemble a wolf, and will haul about seventy pounds each. * It appears that these people, (in some respects resembling the wandering Arabs) are an unsettled, ferocious, blood-thirsty- race, and have been great destroyers of the Algonquin nation, who inhabit the country about lake. Superior. Mr. M'Kenzie states the following circumstance, "Within three miles of the last portage" (a place near lake Superior) "is a remarkable rock. 46 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE CHAPTER IV. Saturday 29. We set sail early and had fair weather; passed a handsome bottom covered with timber on the north side, and bluffs on the south. We saw several Indians on the south side walking up the shore ; spoke to them and found they were some of those we left yesterday. They requested us to give them a carrot of tobacco for the chiefs of the other band to smoke. We sent them two carrots to a sand bar, where they could get it; but told them we should not go on shore again, until we came to the nation of the Aricaris, commonly called Rickarees, Rickrees, or Rees. The Missouri is very shallow at this time and full of sand bars. We passed an old village on the south side, where the Rickarees lived five years ago, and raised corn in the bottom, around the village. We encamped on a sand beach on the south side of the river. Sunday 30. We set out early, in a cloudy morning; passed black bluffs on the south side, and handsome bot- tom prairie on the north ; saw an Indian on the shore, and the chief we had on board spoke to him. He said he wished to come on board and go with us to the Rees ; but we did not take him. The wind was fair and we made nine miles by 10 o'clock. We saw a great number of Indians coming down to the river on the south side. We stopt for breakfast about 200 yards from the shore; then proceeded about a mile; near to the place where the Indians were encamped on the with a smooth face, but split and cracked in different parts, which hang over the water. Into one of its horizontal chasms a great number of arrows have been shot, which is said to havo been done by a war party of the Nadowasjs or Sieux, who had done much mischief in this country, and left these weapons as a warning to the Chebois or natives, that, notwithstanding its lakes, rivers and rocks, it was not inaccessible to their enemies." General History of the Fur Trade. 48 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE south side ; we halted and spoke to them and then went on under a fine breeze of wind. A short time before night, the waves ran very high and the boat rocked a great deal, which so alarmed our old chief, that he would not go any further. We encamped on the north side. Monday October 1, 1804. We early continued our voyage, the morning was cloudy but the wind fair and we sailed rapidly. At nine we passed the River De Chien, or Dog River; a large river that comes in on the south side. A short distance above this river, the sand bars are so numerous, that we had great difficulty to get along, and encamped on one in the middle of the river. There were some French traders on the other bank of the river, and one of them came over and remained with us all night. Tuesday 2. We set sail before daylight. A French- man came on board, who could speak English. He mentioned it as his opinion, that we should see no more Indians, until we should arrive at the nation of Rees. We passed a range of black bluffs on the north side and a large bottom on the south, where there was some tim- ber on the bank of the river. About 2 o'clock we discovered some Indians on the hills on the north side, and one of them came down to the bank and fired a gun; the object or intention we did not well understand, but were ready to meet an attack. We passed black bluffs on the south side, an island covered with timber, and a handsome bottom on the north side. We halted and spoke to the Indian, who said he belonged to the Jonkta or Babarole Band, and that there were twenty lodges of them. We told him we had seen two of their chiefs, and given them a flag and medal. We passed a creek on the south side, and encamped on a sandbar in the middle of the river. Wednesday 3. The morning was cloudy, and some rain fell. The land is high on both sides of the river. About 1 2 o'clock the wind began to blow so hard down the stream that we were unable to proceed, and we halted under some high bluffs, where driftwood was plenty. At three we continued our voyage; passed a long range AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 49 of dark coloured bluffs on the south side and bottom, with some timber, on the north. We encamped on the south side. Thursday 4. We set out early; but were obliged to return to the place where we halted yesterday at twelve and to take the other side of the river; the water was so shallow and sand bars so numerous. At 9 o'clock an Indian swam across the river to see us, when we stopped for breakfast. We informed him that we were not traders, that we had seen his chief and told him all we had to say. We proceeded on, passed a creek on the south side, called Teel Creek, and encamped on the upper part of an island. Friday 5. This morning there was a white frost; the day clear and pleasant. About eleven we saw some goats swimming the river, when one of our hunters ran up the shore and killed four of them, and we took them into the boat and periogues as they floated down. We passed a creek on the north side, called Hidden Creek, and high black bluffs on the south side.* Some of our hunters having gone on an island to hunt, and scared a prairie wolf in the river, which we killed. We passed a creek on the south side called White Goat Creek and encamped on the north side. Saturday 6. We continued our voyage early, and had a clear day ; passed bluffs on the south side, and a bottom covered with timber on the north. About eleven we passed a handsome bottom, where a band of the Rees lived last winter. They had left a number of round huts covered with earth, some of their water craft made of buffalo hides, and some garden truck, such as squashes. We proceeded on and passed a small creek on the south side; a handsome bottom on the north; and encamped on a sand beach on the north side. Sunday 7. We set forward early, and had a clear *To prevent mistakes, owing to the very winding course of the river, Starbord side and Larboard side were made use of in the original journal, instead of north side and south side; during the remainder of the voyage up the Missouri; but have been changed to north side and south side, as being better under- stood, and sufficiently representing the general course of the river. 4 50 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE day: passed a willow bottom on the south side, and a creek on the north. At the beginning of some timber land we passed a small river on the south side, called Cer-wer-cer-na, about 90 yards wide. It is not so sandy as the Missouri, and the water is clear with a deep chan- nel. At the mouth of this river is a wintering camp of the Bickarees of 60 lodges. We saw two Sioux Indians on the north side, gave them some meat and proceeded on. We passed an island, on which Captain Clarke and one of the men went to hunt and killed a deer and prarow. We encamped on the north side opposite the head of the island. Monday 8. The morning was pleasant, and we set out early: passed high land on the south side, and bottom on the north. The river here is very shallow and lull of sand bars. We passed a run on the south side called Slate Run. Two of our hunters went out to some timber land on the north side to look for game. At twelve we came to a river on the south side, 120 yards wide, called the Marapa, where we halted for dinner. The hunters came up, but had killed nothing. We passed a long range of hills on the north side ; about two miles from the Marapa we passed a creek 25 yards wide; and about four miles further came to an island, where one band of the Rickarees live, and encamped at the upper end. Tuesday 9. The day was stormy, and we remained here preparing to hold a Council with the nation. Capt. Lewis with some of the men went down to their lodges, and were used very kindly and friendly. Two Friench- men live with them, one to trade, and the other to inter- pret. Wednesday 10. This day I went with some of the men to the ^dges, about 60 in number. The following is a description of the form of these lodges, and the man- ner of building them. In a circle of a size suited to the dimension, of the intended lodge, they set up 16 forked posts five or six feet high, and lay poles from one fork to another. Against these poles they lean other poles, slanting from the ground, and extending about four inches above the 52 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE cross poles: these are to receive the ends of the upper poles, that support the roof. They next set up four large forks, fifteen feet high, and about ten feet apart, in the middle of the area, and poles or beams between these. The roof poles are then laid on extending from the lower poles across the beams which rest on the mid- dle forks, of such a length as to leave a hole at the top for a chimney. The whole is then covered with willow branches, except the chimney and a hole to pass through. On the willow branches they lay grass and lastly clay. At the hole below, they build a pen about four feet wide, and projecting ten feet from the hut, and hang a buffalo skin at the entrance of the hut for a door. This labor like every other kind is chiefly per- formed by the squaws. They raise corn, beans and tobacco. Their tobacco is different from any I had before seen: it answers for smoking, but not for chewing. On our return, I crossed from the island to the boat, with two squaws in a buffalo skin stretched on a frame made of boughs, wove together like a crate or basket for that purpose. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke held a Council with the Indians, and gave them some presents. Thursday 11. A clear day. We waited for an answer from the Indians. About 12 o'clock, they came, and brought some corn, beans and squashes, which they presented to us. The chief said he was glad to see us, and wished our commanding officers would speak a good word for them to the Mandans; for they wanted to be at peace with them, These are the best looking Indians 1 have ever seen. At 1 o'clock P. M. we proceeded on our voyage ; passed a creek on the south side 20 yards wide, and a handsome bottom covered with timber. Hav- ing made about four miles, we came to the second Village of the Rickarees, situated in a prairie on the south side. They had the American flag hoisted which Captain Lewis gave them yesterday. Their lodges are similar to those in the first Village, and the same, or perhaps more in number. They are the most cleanly Indians I have ever seen on the voyage; as well as the most friendly and industrious. We anchored about 50 AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 53 I yards from shore, and sent a periogue over the river j for wood. We all slept on board except the cooks, who went on shore to prepare provisions for the next day. Friday 12. We had a pleasant morning, and remained I here the forenoon to hear the chief of this village speak. Last night the Indians stole an ax from our cook, which j of course in some degree diminished our confidence, and lessened the amicable character we had conceived of them. At 9 o'clock, Captain Lewis, Captain Clarke and myself went to the second Village, and talked with its chief: then to the third Village, about half a mile beyond a small creek, and talked with the chief of that Village ; and got some corn and beans from them. The third Village is nearly of the same size of the second, and has in it a great number of handsome and smart women and children: the men are mostly out hunting. About twelve we left the village, and proceeded on our voyage. One of the natives agreed to go with us as far as the Mandans. We encamped on the north side. After dark we heard some person hallooing on the opposite shore ; and a periogue went over and brought an Indian and two squaws, who remained with us all night. Saturday 13. We proceeded on early and had a cloudy day; passed Pond River on the north side, about 50 yards wide. One of the squaws went on with us. At twelve it rained some, and we halted to hold a court martial. At two continued our voyage, and did not get landing until after dark, the bank was so high and steep on one side, and the water so shallow on the other. We encamped on the north side. Sunday 14. We had a cloudy morning and some rain. We proceeded early on our voyage; passed a bottom covered with timber on the south side, and low ground covered with willows on the north ; passed a creek and black bluffs on the south side, and encamped on the north. It rained slowly during the whole day. Monday 15. It rained all last night, and we set out early in a cloudy morning. At seven we saw a hunting party of the Rickerees, on their way down to the vill- ages. They had twelve buffalo skin canoes or boats 54 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE ladened with meat and skins; besides some horses that were going down the bank by land. They gave us a part of their meat. The party consisted of men, women and children. At eight we went on again; passed a fine bottom covered with cotton wood on the north side, and naked hills on the south. About ten, we saw anoth- er party of hunters, who asked us to eat, and gave us some meat. One of these requested to speak with our young squaw, who for some time hid herself, but at last came out and spoke with him. She then went on shore and talked with him, and gave him a pair of ear-rings and drops for leave to come with us ; and when the horn blew for all hands to come on board, she left them and came to the boat. We passed a creek on the south side, and encampod at dusk on the north; where there was a party of Indians, about thirty in number. Our squaw remained with this party. They gave us some meat, and appeared very glad to see. us. Tuesday 16. We early renewed our voyage; and had a clear morning, passed a creek on the south side. The timber is more plenty than it has been for a con- siderable distance down the river. The sand bars, gave us a great deal of trouble, and much retarded our pro- gress. In the evening a short time before we encamped, we met with another hunting party of the Rickarees. They had a flock of goats, or antelopes, in the river, and killed upwards of forty of them. Captain Lewis, and one of our hunters went out and killed three of the same flock. We encamped on the south side. This day we saw more than a hundred goats. Wednesday 17. We renewed our voyage early, and had a clear morning. Last night eight of the Indians came over to see us, brought us some meat and remained all night. Captain Lewis, gave them some presents this morning. At half past ten, the wind blew so hard down the river that we were obliged to halt. At four we proceeded on with the assistance of the tow line, though the wind still continued against us, and having made about two miles, encamped on the south side. Several hunters went out this day and killed six deer: one of them did not join us at night. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 55 Thursday 18. We had a clear pleasant morning with some frost. We set sail early, and a hunter went up each shore. Having proceeded two miles, we met a couple of Frenchmen in a canoe, who had been up at the Mandan nation hunting, and met with a party of that nation, who robbed them of their arms, ammunition and some fur, wich they had; and therefore they had to return down the river; but meeting us, went back in hopes of recovering their property. We passed a small river, on the south side called Cannon-ball River. Several hunters went out here. We passed a creek on the north side, called Fish Creek, on which I killed a deer. At night we encamped on the south side, and all the hunters came in, having killed six deer, four goats and a pelican. Friday 19. Early this morning we renewed our voyage, having a clear day and fair wind: passed a creek on the south side. While out hunting yesterday I saw about 300 goats and some buffalo. Deer are not so plenty here as lower down the river, but elk, buffalo, and goats, are very numerous. Four hunters went out to day, and in the evening returned with seven deer and three elk. We encamped on the north side. Saturday 20. We were early under way this morn- ing, which was very pleasant. Two hunters went out and at breakfast time brought a deer to the boat ; when four more went out. We passed a creek on the north side, about 20 yards wide ; bottom covered with timber on both sides, and a small river on the south side op- posite the lower point of an island. At the upper end we passed bluffs on the south side, and bottom on the north. We this day, saw a number of buffalo and goats on the sides of the hills. We encamped on the south side, and our hunters came in having, killed 14 deer, a goat and a wolf; and one of them wounded a large white bear. Sunday 21. We had a disagreeable night of sleet and hail. It snowed during the forenoon, but we pro- ceeded early on our voyage, passed bottom on the south side, and hills on the north. We also passed a small 56 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE river on the south side called Chischeet River; and encamped on the south side. Two of the hunters, who had gone out in the morning came in, and had killed a buffalo and an otter. Monday 22. Some snow fell last night, and the morning was cloudy and cold. We embarked early and went on. At nine we saw 1 1 Indians of the Sioux nation coming down from the Mandans, who, notwithstanding the coldness of the weather, had not an article of clo- thing except their breech-clouts. At 1 o'clock the day became clear and pleasant, and we encamped at night on the south side. Tuesday 23. Some snow fell last night, and the morning was cloudy. At eight, it began to snow, and continued snowing to eleven, when it ceased. We pass- ed the place where the Frenchmen had been robbed, but no Indians could be seen. The hills here are further from the river, than they are for some distance down it; and there are fine large bottoms on both sides covered with cotton wood. We encamped on the south side where we found a great quntity of rabbit berries. Three hunters were out to day, but killed nothing. CHAPTER V. Wednesday 24. We set out early in a cloudy morn- ing. At nine, it began to rain and continued to rain for an hour. At twelve, we came to a hunting party of the Mandan nation of Indians, and remained with them until two and then continued our voyage. There were three lodges of these Indians on an island, which has been cut off the Grand Bend, a short distance below the Mandan village. We encamped on the north side. Five of the Indians came to us, and our Indian went over with them, and returned in jhe morning. Thursday 25. The morning was pleasant, and we AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 57 set sail early with a fair wind. Passed a beautiful bot- tom on the south side, and hills on the north. A great many of the natives, some on horseback and some on foot appeared on the hills halooing and singing. At two, we stopped for dinner, and as we could not get our boat to shore on the north side, the water being shallow, our Indian was sent over to them. In the afternoon we passed a bottom covered with timber on the north side, and hills on the south, and encamped on the north side. Here our Indian returned accompanied by one of the Mandans. Friday 26. We set out early, and had a clear morn- ing; passed a large willow bottom on the south, and high land on the north side. The Mandan Indian left us early in the morning. At ten, we came to a hunting party of the Mandans, consisting of men, women and children. There was an Irishman with them, who had come from the North West Company of traders. We remained here an hour, and then proceeded. A number of the Indians kept along the shore opposite the boat all day, on the south side, on which side we encamped. Some of them remained with us to twelve at night, and then returned to their village. Saturday 27. The morning was clear and pleasant and we set out early At half past seven, we arrived at the first village of the Mandans, and halted about two hours. This village contains 40 or 50 lodges, built in the manner of those of the Rickarees. These Indians have better complexions than most other Indians, and some of the children have fair hair. We passed a bluff on the south side, with a stratum of black resembling coal. There is a bottom on the north side, where the second Mandan village is situated. We went about a mile above it, and encamped in the same bottom, for the purpose of holding a council with the natives. This place is 1610 miles from the mouth of the river du Bois, where we first embarked to proceed on the expedition. There are about the same number of lodges, and people, in this village as in the first. These people do not bury 58 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE their dead, but place the body on a scaffold, wrapped in a buffalo robe, where it lies exposed.* Sunday 28. The day was clear, and we remained here ; but could not sit in council, the wind blew so violent. Monday 29. We had again a clear day, and some of the principal men came from each village of the Mandans, from the Watasoons, Sioux, and one from the Grossventers; and all sat in council together. At 11 o'clock, when the Council met, a shot was fired from our bow piece, and the commanding officers took the chiefs by the hand. Captain Lewis, through an in- terpreter, delivered a speech; gave a suit of clothes to each of the chiefs, and some articles for their villages. He also sent a suit to the chief of the Grossventers. At 3 o'clock another gun was fired at the breaking up of the council, and they all appeared satisfied. Captain Lewis gave an iron mill to the Mandan nation to grind corn, with which they were highly pleased. Tuesday 30. We remained here to know the answer of the Indians. The day was clear and pleasant. At ton, Captain Lswis with a party of our people, and an Indian or two, went about six miles up the river to view an island, in order to ascertain whether or not it would suit for winter quarters. At five P. M. they returned and were of opinion that it was not an eligible place. Wednesday 31. A pleasant morning. We remained here also to day, the Indians having given no answer. At twelve, Captain Clarke and some of the men went down to the village, and the chief gave 9 or 10 bushels of corn, and soma buffalo robes. Thursday Nov. 1, 1804. At 3 o'clock P. M. we returned down the river, to look for a place where we could fix our winter quarters. At dark we had descend- ed 9 miles, and came to a bottom covered with cotton wood where we encamped. Friday 2. Captain Lewis, myself and some of the men, went up to the first village of the Mandans, who * See Makenzie's account of the funeral rites of the Knisteneux, in his General History of the Fur Trade. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 59 gave us some corn. Captain Clarke and the rest of our. party, having dropped half a mile lower down the river, began to clear a place for a camp and fort. We pitched our tents and laid the foundation of one line of huts. Saturday 3. A clear day; we continued building, and six men went down the river in a periogue to hunt. They will perhaps have to go 30 or 40 miles before they come to good hunting ground. The following is the manner in which our huts and fort were built. The huts were in two rows, containing four rooms each, and joined at one end, forming an angle. When raised about seven faet high, a floor of puncheons, or split plank were laid, and covered with grass and clay; which made a warm loft. The upper part projected a foot over and the roofs were made shed fashion, rising from the inner side, and making the outer wall about 18 feet high. The part not inclosed by the huts we intend to picket. In the angle formed by the two rows of huts we built two rooms, for holding our provisions and stores. About the 16, the weather became very cold, and the ice began to run in the river. We sent a Frenchman down to enquire about the hunters and periogue. He and one of the hunters returned to the fort, having left the periogue and the rest about 30 miles below. The Frenchman was sent down again with a rope, and returned by land. On the 19, the hunters came up with the periogue loaded with the meat of about thirty deer, eleven elk, and some buffalo. In the cold weather we moved into the huts, though not finished. From the 20th to the 27th we had fine pleasant weather, and on the evening of the latter, finished the roofs of our huts. These were made of puncheons, split out of cotton wood and then hewed. The cotton wood resembles the lorn- bardy, poplar, and is a light soft wood. The largest trees are in thickness about 18 inches diameter. On the night of the 27th the snow fell seven inches deep, and the 28th was stormy Thursday 29. This day was clear, but cold. We went to unrig the boat, and by an accident, one of the sergeants had his shoulder dislocated. The 30th the 60 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE weather continued the same. Early in the morning of this day, we saw an Indian on the opposite side of the river, and brought him over. He informed us, that, a few days ago, eight of his nation were out hunting, and were attacked by a party of the Sioux tribe, who killed one and would two more; and also carried off their horses. Captain Clarke and 23 men immediately set out with an intention of pursuing the murderers. They went up to the first village of the Mandans, but their warriors did not seem disposed to turn out. They suggested the coldness of the weather; that the Sioux were too far gone to be overtaken; and put off the expedition to the spring of the year. Captain Clarke and his party returned the same evening to the fort. We have been daily visited by the Indians since we came here. Our fort is called Fort Mandan, and by observation is in latitude 47. 21. 32. 8* * The course of the Missouri, and distances of places on it, appear to be very erroneously laid down upon the maps of Louis- iana generally. On these the villages of the Mandans are placed in about 43 degrees of north latitude, and 112! of west longitude from Greenwich. This would place them about 500 miles nearer the mouth of the Columbia on the Pacific Ocean, than the mouth of the Missouri: supposing the mouth of the Columbia to be about 124 degrees west of London. But the near- est practicable route from the Mandan villages, to the mouth of the Columbia, according to Captain Clarke's estimate, places them 335 miles nearer the mouth of the Missouri, than that of the Columbia; and by the route actually taken by the expedition to the mouth of the, Columbia, they are 900 miles nearer the mouth of the Missouri. By Captain Lewis's observations, these villages are in latitude 47. 21. 32. 8. And according to Mr. Makenzie, Mr. Thompson astronomer to the North West company, in the year 1798, deter- mined the north bend of the Missouri, to be in latitude 47. 32. north, and longitude 101. 25. west. Now this is probably near the longitude of the Mandan villages; for as it appears by the above statement, and by other observations of Captain Lewis near the mouth of the Missouri, that the course of the river is, for a con- siderable distance, nearly due west, and afterwards nearly due north. The difference of longitude, and latitude, between the mouth of the Missouri and the point where Mr. Thompson took his observations, may be added together, in estimating the distance: and this will give about 8i degrees of latitude, and 9 degrees of longitude making the whole 17 degrees, which from the very AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 61 Saturday December 1, 1804. The day was pleasant, and we began to cut and carry pickets to complete our fort. One of the traders from the North West company came to the fort, and related that the Indians had been troublesome in his way through. An Indian came down from the first Mandan village, and told us that a great number of the Chien or Dog nation had arrived near the village. Sunday 2. The day was pleasant, and the snow melted fast. A party of the Chien Indians with some of the Mandans came to the fort: they appeared civil and good natured. The 3, 4, and 5, were moderate and we carried on the work; but the 6, was so cold and stormy, we could do nothing. In the night the river froze over, and in the morning was covered with solid ice an inch and a half thick. Friday 7. A clear cold morning. At 9 o'clock, the Big white-head chief, of the first village of the Mandans, came to our garrison and told us that the buffalo were in the prairie coming into the bottom. Captain Lewis and eleven more of us, went out immediately, and saw the prairie covered with buffalo and the Indians on horseback killing them. They killed 30 or 40 and we killed 11 of them. They shoot them with bows and arrows, and have their horses so trained that they will advance very near and suddenly wheel and fly off in case the wounded buffalo attempt an attack. Saturday 8. In our hunt of yesterday, two men had their feet frost-bitten. Captain Clarke and another party went out though the cold was extreme, to hunt the buf- falo; and killed nine, and a deer. One man got his hand frozen, another his foot; and some more got a little touch- ed. Two men encamped out to take care of the meat. Sunday 9. Captain Lewis and twelve more of us, meandering course of the Missouri, may be sufficient to include 1610 miles of it, the distance from the mouth to the villages* In the map of North America included in the Atlas accompanying Pinkerton's Geography, published in 1804, this part of the Mis- souri, appears pretty accurately laid down; but in the map of Louisiana, in the same set it is equally erroneous with any other. AS RDLATED BY PATRICK GASS. 63 went down to the bottom where the two men were taking care of the meat. We found some buffalo had come into the woods, and we killed ten of them and a deer. Having dressed them, we loaded four horses with meat and sent them with some of the party to the fort ; Capt. Lewis and the rest of us encamped out, and had toler- able lodging with the assistance of the hides of the buffalo we had killed. Monday 10. After breakfasting on marrow bones; Captain Lewis and four of us set out for the fort. Four hunters and another man to keep camp remained out. On our return we met one of our men, who said that a party had gone down with the horses for more meat. This day was very cold; an experiment was made with proof spirits, which in fifteen minutes froze into hard ice. In the evening two of our hunters came in with the horses, but had killed nothing. Five encamped out. Tuesday 11. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke thinking the weather too cold to hunt, sent men down to the camp to bring up the remainder of the meat, and orders for the hunters to return. The hunters came in at dark. They had killed four buffalo, and dressed two ef them. The cold was so severe they could do nothing with the other two. Wednesday 12. We all remained at the garrison the weather being intensely cold. We made three small sleds to haul in the meat with. Thursday 13. The weather this day, began to be more moderate. Two hunters went out and killed two buffalo. One came in, and he and some of the men went out and brought in the meat. Friday 14. This day was more moderate, and light snow showers fell. Captain Clarke and fourteen men went out to hunt; and took the three sleds with them. In the evening five of them returned. Captain Clarke and the other nine encamped out, and killed two deer. The snow fell about three inches deep. Saturday 15. A cloudy day. Some of the natives paid us a visit, and brought presents of meat to the com- manding officers. About 1 o'clock Captain Clarke and 64 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE his party returned, but had killed nothing more. The buffalo were gone from the river. Some slight snow showers fell during the day. Sunday 16. A clear cold day. I went up with some of the men to the first and second villages of the Man- dans, and we were treated with much kindness. Three of the traders from the North West Company came to our fort, and brought a letter to our commanding officers. They remained with us all night. The object of the visits we received from the North West Company, was to ascertain our motives for visiting that country, and to gain information with respect to the change of govern- ment.* Monday 17. This was a cold clear day, and we all remained in the garrison. A sled was fitted up for one of the North West traders to return in. In the evening one of the natives came down and told us the buffalo were again come to the river. Tuesday 18. A very cold day. Six of us went out to look for the buffalo; but could see nothing but some goats. At nine we returned and found that the men from the North West Company had set out on their return, notwithstanding the severity of the weather. * The North West Company was first formed in the winter of 1783-4, by the merchants of Canada ingaged in the fur trade, uniting their interests. The concern was divided into sixteen shares, without any capital being deposited; each party furnishing his proportion of the articles necessary for carrying on the trade. After a severe struggle and rival competition with others engaged in the trade, in the year 1787 more partners were admitted, the shares extended to twenty, and the establishment, which was no more than an association of commercial men agreeing among them- selves to carry on the fur trade, founded on a more solid basis. This and Hudson's Bay Company, have engrossed and carry on almost the whole trade in that extensive country, situated between Hudson's Bay, and the Rocky Mountains, and that high tract of country west of lake Superior, which separates the southern from the northern waters: and have factories, forts, and trading estab- lishments on the Winnipic, Assiniboin, Sturgeon, Saskatchiwine, Elk, and most of the other great lakes and rivers, which communi- cate with or discharge themselves into Hudson's Bay, and the North sea. It is said that some change has sinco taken place in the establishment of the North West Company. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 65 Wednesday 19. This was a more pleasant day, and we began to set up the pickets. The 20, and 21, were quite warm and pleasant, and we advanced with our work. Saturday 22. The weather continued clear, pleasant and warm. A great number of the natives came with corn, beans and moccasins to trade, for which they would take anything old shirts, buttons, awls, knives and the like articles. Sunday 23. The weather continued pleasant, and we proceeded in our operations in setting up the pickets. Monday 24. Some snow fell this morning; about 10 it cleared up, and the weather became pleasant. This even- ing we finished our fortification. Flour, dried apples, pepper and other articles were distributed in the different messes to enable them to celebrate Christmas in a proper and social manner. Tuesday 25. The morning was ushered in by two dis- charges of a swivel, and a round of small arms by the whole corps. Captain Clarke then presented to each man a glass of brandy, and we hoisted the American flag in the garrison, and its first waving in fort Mandan was celebrated with another glass. The men then cleared out one of the rooms and commenced dancing. At 10 o'clock we had another glass of brandy, and at one a gun was fired as a signal for dinner. At half past two anoth- er gun was fired, as a notice to assemble at the dance, which was continued in a jovial manner till eight at night; and without the presence of any females, except three squaws, wives of our interpreter, who took no other part than the amusement of looking on. None of the natives came to the garrison this day; the commanding officers having requested they should not, which was strickly at- tended to. During the remainder of the month we lived in peace and tranquility in the garrison, and were daily visited by the natives. 66 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE CHAPTER VI. Tuesday, January 1, 1805. Two shots were fired from the swivel, followed by a round of small arms, to welcome the New Year. Captain Lewis then gave each a glass of good old whiskey ; and a short time after anoth- er was given by Captain Clarke. About 11 o'clock one of the interpreters and half of our people, went up, at the request of the natives, to the village, to begin the dance; and were followed some time after by Captain Clarke, and three more men. The day was warm and pleasant. Captain Lewis in the afternoon issued another glass of whiskey; and at night Captain Clarke and part of the men returned from the village, the rest remained all night. Wednesday 2. Some snow fell this morning. The men, who remained at the village last night, returned. Captain Lewis, myself and soine others went up to the second village and amused ourselves with dancing &c, the greater part of the day. In the evening we in general returned and a great number of the natives, men, women and children, came to see us, and appeared highly pleased. This day 1 discovered how the Indians keep their hor- ses during the winter. In the day time they are permit- ted to run out and gather what they can; and at night are brought into the lodges, with the natives themselves, and fed upon cotton wood branches: and in this way they are kept in tolerable case. Thursday 3. From this to the 13th the weather was generally very cold ; but our hunters were frequently out. One of them killed a beautiful white hare. These ani- mals are said to be plenty. We killed a small buffalo, three elk, four deer and two or three wolves. Three of the hunters going to a distance down the river, killed nothing for two days, but a wolf, which they were obliged to eat; and said they relished it protty well, but found it rather tough, A number of the natives being out hunting in a very cold day, one of them gave out on his return in the evening; and was left in the plain or prairie covered AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 67 with a buffalo robe. After some time he began to recov- er and removed to the woods, where he broke a number of branches to lie on, and to keep his body off the snow. In the morning he came to the fort, with his feel badly frozen, and the officers undertook his cure. Sunday 13. A clear cold day. A number of the na- tives went down the river to hunt with our men. In the evening one of our interpreters and another Frenchman who had gone with him to the Assiniboins for fur return- ed. They had their faces so badly frost bitten that the skin came off, and their guide was so badly frozen that they were obliged to leave him with the Assiniboins. This nation lives near the Rocky Mountains, and about 90 miles from fort Mandan, * Monday 14. Some snow fell this morning. Six more hunters went out to join those with the natives/ In the evening one of the hunters, that first went out, returned. They had killed a buffalo, a wolf and two porcupines; and one of the men had got his feet so badly frozen that he was unable to come to the fort. During the 15th and 16th the weather was warm, and the snow melted fast. Horses were sent for the lame man, and he was brought to the fort; his feet were not so bad as we had expected. On the 17th it became cold; the wind blew hard from the north, and it began to freeze. Friday 18. Clear cold weather. Two of our hunters returned, and had killed four deer, four wolves and a pra- row. Two men belonging to the N. W. company, who stay at the Gross venters village, came to the fort. They say this animal which the French call a prarow, or bra- row, is a species of the badger. Saturday 19. Two men were sent with horses for * It is presumed, no part of the great chain of Rocky Mountains comes as near as 90 miles to fort Mandan; but it is not improbable that there may be a mountain, connected with them, which runs a considerable distance eastward along the great dividing ridge; and on some maps a mountain is laid down running east and west, south of the Assiniboin river and lake, which would appear to bo not more than 90 or 100 miles from the Mandan villages. 68 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE meat, to the hunter's Camp, which is thirty miles down the river. Sunday 20. I went up with one of the men to the villages. They treated us friendly and gave us victuals. After we were done eating they presented a bowlful to a buffalo head, saying "eat that." Their superstitious cre- dulity is so great, that they believe by using the head well the living buffalo will come and that they will get a sup- ply of meat. Monday 21. A clear cold day. Our hunters return- ed to the fort, and brought with them a three horse load of venison and elk meat. The weather on the 22nd and 23d, was warm, and we commenced cutting the ice from about our craft, in order to get them out of the river. The snow fell about three inches deep. Thursday 24. A cold day. Some of our hunters went out, but killed nothing. Friday 25. All hands were employed in cutting away the ice, which we find a tedious business. Saturday 26. A pleasant day and all hands employed in cutting wood, to make charcoal. We have a black- smith with us, and a small set of blacksmith tools. The blacksmith makes war-axes, and other axes to cut wood; which are exchanged with the natives for corn, which is of great service to us, as we could not bring much with us. On the 27th and 28th the weather became much more settled, warm and pleasant than it had been for some time. Tuesday 29. We attempted another plan for getting our water craft disengaged from the ice: which was to heat water in the boats, with hot stones ; but in this pro- ject we failed, as the stones we found would not stand the fire, but broke to pieces. Wednesday 30. 1 went up the river and found anoth- er kind of stones, which broke in the same manner: so our batteaux and periogues remained fast in the ice. Thursday 31. Some snow fell last night. Five hun- ters went out with two horses. In the morning the wind AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 69 blew and was cold, towards the middle of the day the weather became moderate, and the afternoon was plea- sant. Friday, February 1, 1805. A cold day. About 11 o'clock our hunters came home, but had killed nothing. One of the men at the fort went out a short distance, and killed a small deer. On the next day he went out and killed another deer. This and the third were cold. Monday 4. A fine day. Captain Clark and eighteen more went down the river to hunt. We proceeded on 20 miles and could see no game. Tuesday 5. We proceeded on to some Indian camps and there we killed three deer. The next day we went on to more Indian camps and killed some deer. On the 7th we encamped in a bottom on the south side of the Missouri, and the next day turned out to hunt. We kill- ed ten elk and eighteen deer, and remained there all night. On the 9th we built a pen to secure our meat from the wolves, which are very numerous here ; and in the evening went further down and encamped. The next morning we set out on our return towards the fort; and killed some elk and deer in our way. On the 12th we arrived at the fort; and found that one of our interpreter's wives had in our absence made an ADDITION to our num- ber. On the 13th we had three horses shod to bring home our meat. Thursday 14. Four men set out early with the hor- ses and sleds to bring home our meat; and had gone down about 25 miles when a party of Indians (they did not know of what nation) came upon them and robbed them of their horses one of which they gave back, and went off without doing the men any further injury. The same night the men came back and gave information of what had happened. At midnight Captain Lewis called for twenty volunteers who immediately turned out. Hav- ing made our arrangements, we set put early, accompani- ed by some Indians; and having marched thirty miles encamped in some Indian huts. Saturday 16. We renewed our pursuit early, and had a cold morning. Having proceeded twelve miles we dis- 70 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE covered fresh smoke arising at some old camps, where we had hid some meat before when Captain Clarke was down ; and therefore advanced with caution. Having ar- rived at the place we found the savages were gone ; had destroyed our meat, burnt the huts and fled into the plains. This morning the Indians, who had come down with us and one of our men whose feet had been a little frozen, returned home. We hunted the 17th and 18th and got a good deal of meat which we brought to a place where some more had been secured. The 19th we loaded our sleds very heavy, and fifteen men drew one and the horse the other, which was a small one. On the next day we arrived at the fort much fatigued. Thursday 21. Some rain fell to-day, the first that has fallen since November. In the evening the weather be- came clear and pleasant. Friday 22. Was a fine day and we again began to cut away the ice, and succeeded in getting out one of the periogues. Saturday 23. We had fine pleasant weather, and all hands were engaged in cutting away the ice from the boat and the other periogue. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we had the good fortune to get both free from the ice; and in the three following days succeeded in getting them all safe upon the bank. On the 27th we made preparations for making periogues to pursue our voyage in. Thursday 28. Sixteen of us went up the river about six miles, where we found and cut down trees for four canoes. While we were absent an express arrived from the Rickarees village with news that the Sioux had de- clared war against us, and also against the Mandans and Grossventers. They had boasted of the robbery of the 14th at the Rickarees village in their way home, and that they intended to massacre ,the whole of us in the spring. By this express we therefore found out that it was the Sioux who had taken the horses from our men. Friday, March 1, 1805. The same party encamped out to make the canoes, and continued until six were made. On the 20th and 21st we carried them to the river AS RELATED BY PATRICK 5ASS. 71 about a mile and an half distant: There I remained with two men to finish them, and to take care of them, until the 26th, when some men came up from the fort, and we put the canoes into the water. As the river had risen there was some water between the ice and the shore. We got three of them safe to the fort; but the ice break- ing before the other three were got down, so filled the channel, that we were obliged to carry them the rest of the way by land. On the 27th we put one of the canoes into the water to ascertain what weight they would carry. We found they would not carry as much as was expected, and Captain Lewis agreed to take a large periogue along. The remainder of the month we were employed in pre- paring our craft for renewal of our voyage. Monday, April 1, 1805. As our large boat was to re- turn immediately to St. Louis, the whole of our craft was put into the water. A considerable quantity of rain fell this day; the first of any consequence that had fallen here for six months. The second was a fair day but windy. On the 3d the weather was fine and pleasant. Some boxes were made, in which it was intended to have packed skins of different animals, which had been pro- cured in the country, to be sent down in the batteaux. Thursday 4. A fine clear day. We packed the box- es full of skins, buffalo robes, and horns of the Mountain ram, of a great size, for the president; and began to load the boat. Friday 5. This was a clear day and the wind blew hard and cold from the N. W. We took all our goods, stores and baggage out, divided and put them aboard our craft, that we might be ready to continue our voyage. If this brief Journal should happen to be preserved, and be ever thought worthy of appearing in print : some readers will perhaps expect, that, after our long friendly intercourse with these Indians, among whom we have spent the winter; our acquaintance with those nations lower down the river and the information we received re- lative to several other nations, we ought to be prepared now, when we are about to renew our voyage, to give some account of the fair sex of the Missouri ; and enter- 72 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE tain them with narratives of feats of love as well as of arms. Though we could furnish a sufficient number of entertaining stories and pleasant anecdotes, we do not think it prudent to swell our Journal with them; as our views are directed to more useful information. Besides, as we are yet ignorant of the dangers, which may await us, and the difficulty of -escape, should certain probable incidents occur, it may not be inconsistent with good policy to keep the Journal of as small and portable a size as circumstances will make practicable. It may be ob- served generally that chastity is not very highly esteemed by these people, and that the severe and loathsome effects of certain French principles are not uncommon among them. The fact is, that the women are generally consi- dered an article of traffic, and indulgence are sold at a very moderate price. As a proof of this I will just men- tion, that for an old tobacco box, one of our men was granted the honor of passing a night with the daughter of the head chief of the Mandan nation. An old bawd with her punks, may also be found in some of the villages on the Missouri, as well as in the large cities of polished nations. CHAPTER VII. Saturday 6. The day was clear and pleasant. This day we heard that some of the Rickarees had come up to the Mandan villages. Our interpreter and some of the men were sent over to ascertain the truth of the report; and we were detained all day waiting their return. Sunday 7. The men returned and four of the Rick- arees with them. The commanding officers held a con- versation with these Indians, and they concluded that some of them would go down in the boat from their vil- lage to St. Louis. About 5 o'clock in the afternoon we left fort Mandan in good spirits. Thirty-one men and a woman went up the river and thirteen returned down it in the boat. We had two periogues and six canoes, and AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 73 proceeded about four miles, and encamped opposite the first Mandan village, on the north side. Monday 8. We set out early and had a clear day. The wind blew hard from the N. W. At twelve the word was passed from a canoe in the rear that it was sinking, when we halted in front and Captain Clarke went back to see what was the matter. This forenoon we passed two villages of the Grossventers, or Big-Belley nation of In- dians on the South side and a small river on the same side called Cutteau or Knife-River. The canoe which had been in distress, came up, and had received little damage except wetting some powder on board. The woman that is with us is a squaw of the Snake nation of Indians, and wife of our interpreter. We expect she will be of service to us, when passing through that nation. In the afternoon we passed very high bluffs on the South side; one of which had lately been a burning volcano. The pumice stones lay very thick around it, and there was a strong smell of Sulphur. * We came about four- teen miles and encamped on the North side. Tuesday 9. We set out early, and about 1 o'clock we passed a party of Indians hunting: made about twenty- two miles and encamped on the North side. Wednesday 10. We proceeded again early, and had rapid water and a great many sand-bars ; but a fine plea- sant day. Having proceeded about nineteen miles we encamped on the North side. Thursday 11. We got underway early, had a fine clear pleasant day, and went on very well. We saw some Indians on the South side, but did not speak with them. We came about twenty-one miles and encamped on the North side. Friday 12. Another fine day. We set out early as usual. About eight we came to the mouth of the Little * "Mr. Mackay informed me, that in passing over the mountains, he observed several chasms in the earth that emitted heat and smoke, which diffused a strong sulphureous stench." Makenzie's Voyage. These appearances were near the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains where they were crossed by Mr. Mackenzie's party; and in about lat. 56. North, and long. 120. West. 74 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Missouri, a handsome small river that comes in on the South side where we halted and took breakfast. The river is very properly called the Little Missouri, for it exactly resembles the Missouri in color, current and taste. t It was thought advisable to remain here the remainder of the day, and air our loading. Some hunters went out and killed a deer, and Captain Clarke killed a hare, which was now changing its color from white to grey. Saturday 13. We had a pleasant day and a fair wind ; but our small canoes could not bear the sail. Some of the party caught some beaver, and some Frenchman who were out trapping caught ssven of them. We passed a large creek on the South side, called Onion Creek. We came 23 miles and encamped on the North side, where we found a wild goose nest on a tree about 60 feet high. One of the men climbed the tree and found one egg in the nest. Sunday 14. We started early aS usual, and had a fine morning. As we were setting out a black dog came to us, and went along, supposed to have belonged to a band of the Assiniboins, who had been encamped near this place a few days ago. We passed a hill resembling a large haystack, all but about ten feet of the top which was as white as chalk. The hills in general are much higher here than lower down the river; but the bottoms much the same. In the afternoon we passed a creek, called after our interpreter, Sharbons Creek. He had been, before, this far up the Missouri, and no white man any further, that we could discover. We made 16 miles and encamp- ed in a handsome bottom on the North side. Monday 15. We had a pleasant day and a fair wind; set forward early as usual, and went on very well. Pass- ed a large Creek on the North side, called Goat-Pen Creek. We saw a number of buffalo and two bears on the bank of the river. After going 23 miles we encamp- ed on the South side. Tuesday 16. We had a clear pleasant day; and in f The maps of Louisiana place the Mandan villages west of the little Missouri; whereas it is ascertained by this expedition to be 92 miles higher up the Missouri than the Mandans. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 75 the early part of it, a fair gentle wind. Captain Clarke went out and killed a Cabre or Antelope, the same kind of an animal, which we before called a goat. Tho wind became flawy and the sailing bad. After making eighteen miles we encamped on the South side in a point of woods called the Grand Point. Wednesday 17. We proceeded on early as usual with a fair wind. The day was fine and we made good way. Passed a beautiful plain and two large Creeks on the North side, and another creek on the South. We saw a great many buffalo and elk on the banks. At 1 o'clock we halted for dinner, when two men went out and in a few minutes killed two buffalo. We made 26 miles and en- camped on the South side, and found that some rain had fallen during the day, where we encamped, though there was none where we had been. Thursday 18. The men caught some beaver, and killed a wild goose. The morning was fine and we went on very well until 1 o'clock, when the wind blew so hard down the river, we were obliged to lie to for three hours, after which we continued our voyage. This day Captain Clarke went by land and met us in the afternoon on the bank with an elk and a deer. We came about 14 miles and encamped in a good harbor on the North side, on ac- count of the wind, which blew very hard all night accom- panied by some drops of rain. Friday 19. A cloudy morning, with high wind. We did not set out until the next day. While we lay here, I went out to the hills, which I found very high, much wash- ed by the rain, and without grass. I saw a part of a log quite petrified, and of which good whetstones, or hones could be made. I also saw where a hill had been on fire, and pumice stones around it. There is a great quantity of hysop in the vallies. We killed an elk and some wild geese, and caught some beaver. Saturday 20. We set out again and had a cold disa- greeable morning; rapid water and a strong wind. Some of the canoes took in a good deal of water ; and we made but six miles, when we were obliged again to lie too, on account of the wind, and to dry our loading. While we 76 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE lay here we killed three elk and got a number of Geese eggs out of their nests, which are generally built on trees. Sunday 21. We proceeded on early; and had a fine clear morning, but cold; there was a sharp frost. We saw a great number of elk, buffalo and deer on both sides of the river. About twelve the wind again rose and was disagreeable, but we continued our voyage. Two of our hunters went out this afternoon and caught three young buffalo calves. We passed a small river called White Clay river on the North side and having gone 15 miles encamped on the South side. Monday 22. Before day light we continued our voy- age; passed a beautiful bottom on the North side, cover- ed with game of different kinds. The wind was unfavor- able to day, and the river here is very crooked. We came about 14 miles, then encamped on the South side and caught some beaver. Tuesday 23. We set out early and had a fine day; bull the wind was ahead and we were obliged to lie too about three hours. We went 15 miles and encamped on the North side. Captain Clarke killed three blacktailed deer and a buffalo calf. Wednesday 24. This was a clear day, but the wind blew so hard down the river we could not proceed. While we lay here some of the men went to see some water at a distance which appeared like a river or small lake. In the afternoon they returned, and had found it only the water of the Missouri, which had run up a bot- tom. One of the men caught six young wolves and brought them in, and the other men killed some elk and deer. Thursday 25. We set out as usual and had a fine day; but about eleven were obliged to halt again, the wind was so strong ahead. Captain Lewis and four men set off by land from this place to go to the river Jaune, or Yellow Stone river, which it is believed is not very dis- tant. I remarked, as a singular circumstance, that there is no dew in this country, and very little rain. Can it be owing to the want of timber? At 5 o'clock in the after- AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 77 noon, we renewed our voyage; and having this day ad- vanced about 13 miles, encamped on the South side. Friday 26. A fine day. We set out early, and hav- ing proceeded 10 miles came at 12 o'clock to the mouth of the Jaune and halted: Captain Lewis and his party had not arrived. I went up the point about nine miles, where there are the most beautiful rich plains I ever be- held. I saw a large pond or lake. Captain Clarke while I was absent measured both rivers; and found the breadth of the Missouri to be 337 yards of water, and 190 of a sand beach; total 527 yards. That of the Yellow Stone river 297 yards of water and 561 of sand; total 858 yards. The mouth of this river is 1888 miles from the mouth of the Missouri; 278 from Fort Mandan and 186 from the mouth of Little Missouri. The river Jaune is shallow, and Missouri deep and ra- pid. In the evening Captain Lewis with his party joined us; and had brought with them a buffalo calf, which fol- lowed them seven or eight miles. We killed a number of calves, and found they made very good veal. There are a great many signs of beaver in this part of the coun- try. We encamped on the point all night. Saturday 27. About 9 o'clock in the forenoon we re- newed our voyage. The day was fine, but on account of a strong wind we were obliged at one to halt, till four, when we again went on; and having this day made eight miles, encamped on the North side. Sunday 28. We set out early, had a fine day and went on very well. About nine we halted for breakfast under very high bluffs on the North side. About 15 miles above the Yellow Stone river, the banks on the Missouri are not so high as below it, and the sand bars are more in the middle of the river. We came 24 miles and encamped on the North side in a handsome bottom. The bottoms here are not so large, and have less timber on them than those below the Jaune. Monday 29. We again set out early, had a clear morning and went on at a good rate.^ This forenoon we 78 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE passed some of the highest bluffs I had ever seen; and on the top of the highest we saw some Mountain sheep, which the natives say are common about the Rocky Mountains. These were the first we had seen, and we attempted to kill some of them but did not succeed. Cap- tain Lewis, and one of the men, travelled some distance by land and killed a white bear. The natives call them white, but they are more of a brown grey. They are longer than the common black bear, and have much larger feet and talons. We went 25 miles and encamped on the bank of a small river, which comes in on the North side about 70 yards wide. Tuesday 30. We embarked at sunrise; had a fine morning and went on very well. We passsd through a handsome Country, with a rich soil, and the prairies rising beautifully on both sides of the river. We went 24 miles and encamped on the North side. Captain Lewis killed a large elk here. CHAPTER VIII. Wednesday, May 1, 1805. We set out early in a cool morning; and went on till 12 o'clock, when the wind rose so high, that our small canoes could not stand the waves. We made only ten miles this day. Thursday 2. At daybreak it began to snow; and the wind continued so high, we could not proceed until the afternoon. While we lay here our hunters went out and killed some buffalo and deer. They found some red cloth at an old Indian camp, which we suppose had been offered and left as a sacrifice ; the Indians having some knowledge of a supreme being and this their mode of worship. The snow did not fall more than an inch deep. At four we set out, went six miles, and encamped on the North side in a beautiful bottom. Friday 3. We proceeded on our voyage this morn- ing, though very cold and disagreeable, and a severe frost, The snow and green grass on the prairie exhibited an ap- 80 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE pearance somewhat uncommon. The cotton wood leaves are as large as dollars, notwithstanding the snow and such hard frost. We passed a small river on the north side called the 2000 mile river. About a mile above we pass- ed a larga creek on the South side, called Porcupine Creek. We came this day about 20 miles and encamped on the North side. Saturday 4. This day was more pleasant: in the fore- noon we passed a creek on the South side, about 40 yards wide. The river has been more straight for two or three days than it was before; the bottoms larger and more timber on them. We went about eighteen miles and en- camped on the north side. One of the men became sick this morning and has remained so all day. Sunday 5. The morning was fine with some white frost. During this day the country appeared beautiful on both sides of the river. We went sixteen miles and encamped on the North side. The sick man has be- come better. Here we killed a very large brown bear, which measured three feet five inches round the head; three feet eleven inches round the neck; round the breast five feet ten and a half inches; the length eight feet sev- en and a half inches; round the middle of the fore leg twenty-three inches ; and his talons four inches and three eights of an inch. Monday 6. We set sail with a fair wind and plea- sant weather. At twelve a few drops of rain fell, but it soon cleared up. We passed a river on the South side about 200 yards wide ; but the water of this river sinks in the sand on the side of the Missouri. We went twen- ty-six miles and encamped on the South side. Tuesday 7. We again set out early and went on very well till twelve when it began to blow hard, and being all under sail one' of our canoes turned over. Fortunately the accident happened near the shore; and after halting three hours we were able to go on again. Having this day made sixteen miles we encamped on the South side. Wednesday 8. We were again very early under way in a cloudy morning; about twelve some rain fell: at two we passed a handsome river on the North side about 200 AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 81 yards wide called Milk River. There is a good deal of water in this river which is clear, and its banks beau- tiful. Our distance this day was about twenty-seven miles, and we encamped in a beautiful bottom on the South side. Thursday 9. We proceeded on early and had a fine day. The country on both sides begins to be more bro- ken, and the river more crooked. At one, we passed a creek on the South side, and having made about 25 miles we encamped at the mouth of a creek on the North side, called by the name of Warner's Creek. Friday 10. We sat out early in a fair morning; but having gone five miles were obligsd to halt and lie by during the day, on account of hard wind. Some small showers of rain occasionally fall. Hare we killed some deer and buffalo and took some b savor. Saturday 1 1 . The morning was fine, we started at the usual hour: at one passed a small creek on the South side. This day we saw several gangs of buffalo, and other game in plenty. One of the men killed another large brown bear, about the size of the one lately killed. We came seventeen miles and encamped on the South sida. Sunday 12. We early renewed our voyage and had a pleasant morning; passed some hills on the North side, covered with pine and cedar, the first timber of any kind we have seen on the hills for a long time. At one we halted for dinner and a violent storm of wind then arose, which continued until night when some rain fell. Our distance this day only 13 miles. Monday 13. The weather continued stormy, and some few drops of rain fell. At one P. M. we embarked, passed three creeks, one on the North side and two on the South; went seven miles, and encamped in a largo bottom. Tuesday 14. There was some white frost in the morning, we proceeded on early; passed black hills close to the river on the South side and some covered with pine timber at a distance. About twelve the day became warm. Banks of snow were seen lying on the hills on the North 6 82 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE side. This forenoon we passed a large creek on the North side and a small river on the South. About four in the afternoon we passed another small river on the South side near the mouth of which some of the men discover- ed a large brown bear, and six of them went out to kill it. They fired at it; but having only wounded it, it made bat- tle and was near seizing some of them, but they all for- tunately escaped, and at length, succeeded in dispatching it. These bears are very bold and ferocious; and very large and powerful. The natives say they have killed a number of their brave men. The penogues having gone ahead, while the people belonging to the canoes were dressing the bear, a sudden gust of wind arose, which overset one of the periogues before the sail could be got down. The men who had been en board, turned it again and got it to shore, full of water. It was immediately unloaded and the cargo opened, when we found a great part of the medicine, and other articles spoiled. Here we encamped, having come to day 18J miles. Wednesday 15. We remained here all day to dry our baggage that had got wet. It was cloudy and unfa- vorable for the purpose, and some rain fell. Thursday 16. This was a fine day, and by 4 o'clock in the afternoon we had all our articles dry and on board again. At that time we proceeded on our voyage ; pass- ed high barren hills on both sides of the river, with only a few pine trees on them. We advanced seven miles and encamped in a handsome bottom on the South side where there are a number of old Indian huts. Friday 17. The morning was fine and we embarked early. The hills here come very close to the river on both sides, and have very little timber on them. They are very high and much washed. There are some of them, which at a distance resemble ancient steeples. We passed two rivers, one on each side. During the whole of this day's voyage the Missouri was very handsome, and about 300 yards wide. We made 20 miles and en- camped on the South side. Saturday 18. A cloudy morning. We proceeded a& usual. The country much the same as yesterday; until AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 83 about 12 o'clock, when the bottoms became more exten- sive on both sides of the river. There is still a small quantity of pine timber on the hills. We had some showers of rain in the forenoon ; hail in the afternoon; and a fine clear evening. We went nineteen miles and encamped on the South side opposite an island. Sunday 19. The morning was foggy and there was some dew. The river is handsome and the country mountainous. We made 20^ miles and encamped on the North side in a small bottom. Monday 20. We set sail early and had a fine morn- ing. Passed a creek on the south side and about eleven came to the mouth of the Muscle-shell Kiver, a handsome river that comes in on the South side. The water of the Missouri is becoming more clear. We here spent the remainder of the day, having come seven miles. Cap- tain Lewis had an observation here, which gave 47. 00. 24. North latitude: and Captain Clarke measured the rivers. The Missouri here is 22*2 yards wide, and the Muscle-shell 110 yards. The water of the latter is of a pale color, and the current is not rapid ; its mouth is 660 miles above Fort Mandans. Tuesday 21. We proceeded on early and had a fine morning; towards the middle of the day the wind blew hard ; but we went on very well for miles, and en- camped on a sand-beach on the North side. Wednesday 22. A cloudy morning. The wind blew so hard this morning, we did not get under way until 9 o'clock. The forenoon was cold and disagreeable, but the afternoon became more pleasant. We killed a brown bear and some other game on our way. Having gone 16|- miles we encamped on the North side. Thursday 23. The morning was clear with a white frost, and ice as thick as window glass. We passed two creeks, one on each side of the river: and two Islands, which are not common. There are very few between these and Fort Mandans, not more than six or eight. In the evening we killed a large bear in the river ; but he 84 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE? sunk and we did not get him.* We went 28J miles and encamped. Friday 24. There was again some white frost this morning. We embarked early; passed a large creek on the North side and a beautiful Island close on the South- ern shore. At the head of the Island, came in another creek on the South side. The bottom of the river, and sand-bars have become much more gravelly than we found them at any place lower down. The water is high, rapid and more clear. At dinner time a party was sent out to bring the meat of some animals that had been kill- ed at a distance. Here we left two canoes to wait for them and proceeded on. W T e passed a creek on the North side, and having made 24^ miles encamped on the South side. The hills are near, on both sides of the river, and very high. Saturday 25. We waited here in the morning until the canoes came up ; and about seven proceeded on our voyage. The forenoon was pleasant. We passed two creeks opposite to each other on the opposite sides of the river. About twelve we passed a bottom on the* North side with one solitary tree on it, upon which there was an eagle's nest. The bottoms here are very small. As we went on this afternoon, some of the party killed three of what the French and natives call mountain sheep; but they very little resemble sheep, except in the head, horns and feet. They are of a dun color except on the belly and round the rump, where they are white. The horns of the male are very large; those of the female small. They have a fine soft hair. Captain Clarke calls them the Ibex, and says they resemble that animal more than any other. They are in size somewhat larger than a deer. The hills here are very high and steep. One of our men in an attempt to climb one had his shoulder dis- located ; it was however replaced without much difficulty. These hills are very much washed in general: they appear like great heaps of clay, washing away with every shower ; with scarcely any herbs or grass on any * It is said that bears, beavers, otters and such animals will sink unless shot dead. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 85 of them. This evening we passed an island all prairie except a few trees on the upper end of it. We went 18 miles and encamped on the South side. Sunday 26. We set out early in a fine morning, and passed through a desert country ; in which there is no timber on any part, except a few scattered pines on the hills. We saw few animals of any kind, but the Ibex or mountain sheep. One of our men killed a male, which had horns two feet long, and four inches diameter at the root. * We passed two creeks this forenoon on the North * "The Ibex resembles the goat in the shape of its body; but differs in the horns which are much larger. They are bent back- wards, full of knots; and it is generally asserted that there is a knot added every year. There are some of these found if we may believe Bellonius, at least two yards long. The Ibex has a large black beard, is of a brown color, with a thick woven coat of hair. There is a streak of black runs along the top of the back; and the belly and back of the thighs are of a fawn color. It is a native of the Alps, the Pyrenees, and mountains of Greece; extremely swift and capable of running with ease along the edges of precipices, where even the Wolf or the Fox, though instigated by hunger, dares not pursue it." Goldsmith. Such is the description given of the Ibex; but which to us does not appear to suit the animal found about the Rocky Mountains called the mountain Ram. From what we have before heard of that animal, and from Mr. Gass's verbal description, we are led to believe, that it much more nearly resembles the wild sheep, called the Mufflon or Musmon, to be found in the uncultivated parts of Greece, Sardinia, Corsica and in the desart of Tartary; and which is thought to be the primitive race and the real sheep in its wild and savage state. Perhaps it may be found to be exactly the same; of which we find the following description. "The Mufflon, or Musmon, though covered with hair, bears a stronger similitude to the Ram than to any other animal; like the Ram it has the eyes placed near the horns; and its ears are shorter than those of the Goat: it also resembles the Ram in its horns, and in all the particular contours of its form. The horns also are alike; they are of a white or yellow color; they have three sides as in the Ram, and bend backwards in the same manner behind the ears. The muzzle and inside of the ears are of a whitish color tinctured with yellow; the other parts of the face are of a brownish grey. The general color of the hair over the body is of a brown, approach- ing to that of the red deer. The inside of the thighs and belly are of a white, tinctured with yellow. The form upon the whole seems more made for agility and strength than that of the common sheep; and th Mufflon is actually found to live in a savage state, and main- 86 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE '4side; and in the evening one of the men killed a buffalo. At dark we came to large rapids, where we had to unite the crews of two or three canoes, to force them through. It was sometime after night before we could encamp. We at length, after having gone 21 miles encamped on the South side in a small grove of timber ; the first we had seen during the day. Monday 27. We have now got into a country which presents little to our view, but scenes of barrenness and desolation; and see no encouraging prospects that it will terminate. Having proceeded (by the course of this river) about two thousand three hundred miles, it may therefore not be improper to make two or three general observations respecting the country we have passed. From the mouth of the Missouri to that of the river Platte, a distance of more than six hundred miles, the land is generally of a good quality, with a sufficient quan- tity of timber; in many places very nch, and the country pleasant and beautiful. From the confluence of the, river Platte with the Mis- souri to the Sterile desert, we lately entered, a distance of upwards of fifteen hundred miles the soil is less rich, and except in the bottoms, the land of an inferior quality; but may in .general be called good second rate land. The country is rather hilly than level, though not mountain- ous, rocky or stony. The hills in their unsheltered state are much exposed to be washed by heavy rains. This kind of country and soil which has fallen under our observation in our progress up the Missouri, extends it is understood, to a great distance on both sides of the river. Along the Missouri and the waters which flow into it, cotton wood and willows are frequent in the bot- toms and islands; but the upland is almost entirely with- tain itself either by force or swiftness against all the animals that live by rapine. Such is its extreme speed that many have been inclined rather to rank it among the deer kind, than the sheep. But in this they are deceived, as the Musmon has a mark that entirely distinguishes it from that species, being known never to shed its horns. In some these are seen to grow to a surprising size; many of them measuring, in their convolutions, above two ells long " Goldsmith AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 87 out timber, and consists of large prairies or plains the boundaries of which the eye cannot reach. The grass is generally short on these immense natural pastures, which in the proper seasons are decorated with blossoms and flowers of various colors. The views from the hills are interesting and grand. Wide extended plains with their hills and vales, stretching away in lessening wavy ridges, until by their distance they fade from the sight; large rivers and streams in their rapid course, winding in various meanders; groves of cotton wood and willow along the waters intersecting the landscapes in different directions, dividing them into various forms, at length appearing like dark clouds and sinking in the horizon; these enlivened with the buffalo, elk, deer, and other animals which in vast numbers feed upon the plains or pursue their prey, are the prominent objects, which com- pose the extensive prospects presented to the view and strike the attention of the beholder. The islands in the Missouri are of various sizes; in general not large, and during high water mostly over- flowed. There are Indian paths along the Missouri and some in other parts of the country. Those along that river do not generally follow its windings but cut off points of land and pursue a direct course. There are also roads and paths made by the buffalo and other animals ; some of the buffalo roads are at least ten feet wide. We did not embark this morning until 8 o'clock. The day was fine, but the wind ahead. We had difficult water, and passed through the most dismal country I ever beheld; nothing but barren mountains on both sides of the river, as far as our view could extend. The bed of the river is rocky, and also the banks and hills in some places; but these are chiefly of earth. We went thirteen miles and encamped in a bottom, just large enough for the purpose, and made out to get enough of drift wood to cook with. Tuesday 28. We set sail early, had a fine morning, and proceeded on through this desert country until about 4 o'clock P. M. when we came to a more pleasant part. We made twenty-one miles and encamped on the North side. 88 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Wednesday 29. We proceeded on early and had a fine morning: passed two rivers, one on each side. At twelve it became cloudy and began to rain. We went about eighteen miles and halted at a handsome grove of timber on the South side. It rained a little all the after- noon. Some of the men went out to hunt and killed an elk. Last night about 12 o'clock a buffalo swimming the river happened to land at one of the periogues, crossed over it and broke two guns, but not so as to render them useless. He then went strait on through the men where they were sleeping, but hurt none of them. As we came along to day we passed a place where the Indians had driven above an hundred head of buffaio down a preci- pice and killed them. Thursday 30. The forenoon was cloudy, with some rain. We did not set out till late in the day. The hills came in close on the river again, but are not so high. Some of them are as black as coal and some white as chalk. We see a great many fresh Indian tracks or signs as we pass along. It rained a little all day; we went on slow and encamped early on the North side, in a small bottom with some cotton wood, having proceeded on eight miles. There are no pines to be seen on the hills. Friday 31. We embarked early in a cloudy morning; passed through a mountainous country, but the game is more plenty, and we killed some buffalo in our way. About 1 1 o'clock it began to rain slowly, and continued raining two hours, when it cleared up. We passed some very curious cliffs and rocky peaks, in a long range. Some of them 200 feet high and not more than 8 feet thick. They seem as if built by the hand of man, and are so numerous that they appear like the ruins of an ancient city. We went 1 7^ miles and encamped at the mouth of a handsome creek on the North side. Saturday, June 1, 1805. We embarked early. The morning was cloudy, but without rain. We passed through a more handsome country, than for some days past. It appears more level and there are some good bottoms on both sides of the river, but not large; also a number of beautiful small islands covered with cotton AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 89 wood. We saw a number of mountain sheep. Yester- day our men killed three of them, that had remarkable large horns ; one pair weighed 25 pounds. We passed a small river on the North side about 1 1 o'clock. The water is not so rapid to day as usual, but continues high. In the afternoon we passed a creek about 30 yards wide, and several small islands. We went 24 miles and encamped on a small island. Sunday 2. We embarked early in a fine morning. The hills come close on the river, but are not so high nor so broken , as we found them a short distance lower down. This forenoon we passed two creeks, one on each side, and several islands covered with cotton wood; but there is not a stick of timber to be seen any where upon the hills. Some of the hunters killed a brown bear in a small bottom on the south side, and having come 1 8 miles we encamped just above the bottom on the same side, at the mouth ol a large river. Monday 3. We crossed over to the point between the two rivers and encamped there. The commanding officers could not determine which of these rivers or branches, it was proper to take; and therefore concluded to send a small party up each of them. Myself and two men went up the South branch, and a serjeant and two more up the North. The parties went up the two branches about 15 miles. We found the South branch rapid with a great many islands and the general course South West. The other party reported the North branch as less rapid, and not so deep as the other. The North branch is 1 86 yards wide and the South 372 yards. The water of the South branch is clear, and that of the North muddy. About a mile and a half up the point from the confluence, a handsome small river falls into the North branch, called Rose river. Its Water is muddy, and the current rapid. Captain Lewis took a meridian altitude at the point, which gave 47. 24. 12. North lati- tude. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke were not yet satisfied with respect to the proper river to ascend. Tuesday 4. Captain Lewis with six men went up the North branch, to see if they could find any certain markg 90 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE to determine whether that was the Missouri or not; and Captain Clarke myself and four others went up the South branch, for the same purpose with regard to that branch. About eight miles above the confluence, the South branch and the small river which falls into the North branch, are not more than 200 yards apart. Near this place and close on the bank of the South branch is a beautiful spring where we refreshed ourselves with a good drink ot" grog; and proceeded on through the high plains. Here nothing grows but prickly pears, which are in abun- dance, and some short grass. We went on about thirty miles and found the river still extending in a South West direction. We saw a mountain to the South about 20 miles off, which appeared to run East and West, and some spots on it resembling snow. In the evening we went towards the river to encamp, whera one of the men having got down to a small point of woods on the bank, before the rest of the party, was attacked by a huge he bear, and his gun missed fire. We were about 200 yards from him, but the bank there was so steep we could not get down to his assistance: we, however, firsd at the ani- mal from the place where we stood and he went off with- out injuring the man. Having got down we all encamp- ed in an old Indian lodge for the night. Wednesday 5. Some slight showers of arain fell in the night, and the morning was cloudy. When prepar- ing to set out we discovered three bears coming up the river towards us; W3 therefore halted awhile and killed the whole of them. About seven we set out along the plains again, and discovered the mountain South of us covered with snow, that had fallen last night. When we had gone about 1 1 miles we saw a large mountain to the West of us also covered with snow. This mountain ap- peared to run from North to South, and to be very high. The bearing of the river is still South West. Captain Clarke thought this a good course for us to proceed on our voyage, and we turned back towards the camp again. We went about 15 miles and struck the small river about 20 miles from its mouth. Here we killed some elk and deer and encamped all night. There is a great deal of 92 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE timber in the bottoms of this little river, and plenty of different kinds of game. In these bottoms I saw the stalks of a plant resembling flax in every particular. Thursday 6. We proceeded down the small river and killed some deer. About 1 o'clock we went on the plains again, which we kept on till we came to the point in the evening. Captain Lewis and his party had not returned. Some light rain fell this afternoon. Friday 7. It rained all day: Captain Lewis and party did not return. Saturday 8. A fine cool morning. About 10 o'clock A. M. the water of the South river, or branch, became almost of the color of claret, and remained so all day. The water of the other branch has the appearance of milk when contrasted with the water of this branch in its present state. About four in the afternoon Captain Lewis and his party came to camp. They had been up the North branch about 60 miles, and found it navigable that distance ; not so full of islands as the other branch and a greater quantity of timber near it and plenty of game, which is not the case on the South branch. Its bearing something north of west a considerable distance, and then to the south of west. The party while out kill- ed eighteen deer and some elk. From the appearance of the river where they left it to return, they supposed it might be navigable a considerable distance further. They saw no mountains ahead, but one off towards the north: it was not covered with, snow like those we had seen. Both these rivers abound in fish; and we caught some of different kinds, but not large. About 5 o'clock in the afternoon the weather became cloudy and cold, and it began to rain. The officers concluded that the South branch was the most proper to ascend, which they think is the Missouri. The other they called Maria's river. At dark the rain ceased. Sunday 9. A fine morning. It was thought advisa- ble to leave the large periogue here and part of the stores and baggage, and some of the men were engaged in dig- ging a case to bury them in. The water of the Missouri changed this morning to its former color. The day was AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 93 fine, but the wind blew hard from the northwest. One of the men killed an excellent fat buffalo. There is a quan- tity of goose-berry and choak-cherry bushes on the point, and also some rabbit berries. Monday 10. We hauled our large periogue on an island in the mouth of Maria's river and covered it over with brush. We then began to examine and assort our effects to see what would be the least wanted and most proper to leave; but about two it began to rain and blow so hard, we were obliged to desist. The rain continued only an hour, and in the evening we loaded the rest of the craft, and left the remainder of our stores and bag- gage to be hurried, consisting of corn, pork, flour, some powder and lead, and other articles amounting to about one thousand pounds weight. Tuesday 11. A fine day. Captain Lewis and four men set out this morning to go to the mountains, which we had discovered towards the west. The rest of the party were engaged in hurrying the baggage and goods which had been left, and preparing to start the following morning. CHAPTER IX. Wednesday 12. The morning was fine; we set out from the mouth of Maria's river, and went ton very well. In the forenoon we passed twelve islands. At 1 o'clock the weather became cloudy and threatened ram; at two there was a light shower, and the day became clear. We passed three islands this afternoon and some handsome bluffs on both sides of the river. We went 18 miles and encamped in a small bottom on the North side, where we killed two elk and some deer. Thursday 13. We set out early in a fine morning, Some dew fell last night. We passed a large creek on the South side, called Snow creek. The water of the rirer is very clear and the current very rapid. We pass- 94 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE ed a number of islands covered with timber; but there is none to be seen on the hills on either side. We went 14 miles and encamped on the South side. Friday 14: We embarked early, and the morning was pleasant. About 7 o'clock A. M. we passed a place where Captain Lewis and his men had killed two bears, and had left a note directing us where to find them. About two, one of Captain Lewis' men met us, and informed us that the falls were about 20 miles above; and that Captain Lewis and the other three men, were gone on to examine what the distance was above the falls, before we could take water again. We went ten miles and encamped on a small bottom on the South side. Saturday 15. W T e proceeded on as usual, but had the most rapid water, I ever saw any craft taken through. At noon we stopped at the mouth of a creek on the South side, called Strawberry creek, a handsome rapid stream, but not large. On a point above, there is a great quanti- ty of Strawberry, gooseberry and choak-cherry bushes; and there appears to be a good deal of small cotton-wood on the banks of this creek. In the afternoon we passed red bluffs on both sides of the river, and at night came to a large rapid which we did not venture to pass so late; and therefore encamped below on the North side, after going 12 miles. Sunday 16. In the morning all hands were engaged in taking the canoes over the rapid about a mile in length, which having accomplished they returned and took up the periogue, where we halted to examine an other great rapid close ahead. One man had been senir^on last night to Captain Lewis, to find out what discoveries he had made, We remained here some time, and a few of the men went out to hunt. About noon Captain Lewis and the party with him joined us, and the hunters came in. Cap- tain Lewis had been up to the falls, 15 miles above the first shoot or pitch, and found the falls continue all that distance, in which there were five different shoots, 40 or 50 feet perpendicular each, and very rapid water between them. As we found the South side the best to carry our canoes up, we crossed over and unloaded our craft. We AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 95 then had to take the empty canoes to the side we had left, and to tow them up by a line about a mile, in order to get them up to the mouth of a small river on the South side, as a more convenient place to take them up the bank. This business was attended with great difficulty as well as danger, but we succeeded in getting them all over safe. Monday 17. Part of the men were employed in taking the canoes up the small river about a mile and a half; and some engaged in making small wagons to haul the canoes and loading above the falls. Captain Clarke and four men went out to view and survey our road to the place where we were to embark above the falls. Opposite the mouth of the small river, a beauti- ful sulphur spring rises out of the bank, of as strong sulphur water as I have ever seen. On the bottoms of this small river and also on the Missouri is a great quan- tity of flax growing, and at this time in bloom. Two men went out this morning to hunt for elk, in order to get their skins for covering to the iron frame of a boat we had with us. In the evening the men got the canoes to a proper place to take them upon land. Tuesday 18-. The periogue was hauled out of the water and laid safe; and some men went to dig a place for depositing more of our baggage. About twelve the two hunters came in, arid could find no elk, but killed 10 deer. In the evening- we completed our wagons, which were made altogether of wood, and of a very ordinary quality; but it is expected they will answer the purpose. Wednesday 19. A fine day, but the wind very high. Three hunters set out for Medicine River, a large river above the falls, which comes in on the north side, to hunt for elk. We finished the burying place, so that we will be ready to start as soon as Captain Clarke returns. All our people are making moccasons to go through t he prairie. Thursday 20. A cloudy morning: four hunters went out to kill some fat buffalo. About 4 o'clock one of them came in for men to carry the meat to camp ; as they had 14 down ready to butcher. We went out about a mile and a half, and brought in a load, leaving three men to 96 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE dress the rest. Captain Clarke and his party returned, having found a tolerable good road except where some draughts crossed it. They had left their blankets and provision at the place where they expect we will again embark. Friday 21. This morning was also fine, but there was a high wind. The remainder of the meat was brought in, and one ot the men killed two deer. Saturday 22. All hands, except two and the interpre- ter and his wife, set out through the prairie with one canoe on a wagon loaded heavy with baggage. We went on slowly as our axletrees were weak; and about 12 o'clock one of them broke; when we had to halt and put in a new one. This accident happened at a draught where there was some willow, and we put in an axletree of that; which I believe is the best this country affords for the purpose. It was late in the evening before we got to the intended place of embarkation on the river. Sunday 23. The morning was cloudy. When I awoke this morning I found a material difference between the river and country here and below the falls. Here the river is wide and the current gentle. There are three small islands at this place and some timber on the banks, but not much, and what is there is cotton- wood and willow. The banks are very low, and the country rising in plains a considerable distance on both sides of the river; and far off mountains covered with snow on both sides and ahead. Two of the men and myself remained with Captain Lewis here to assist him in putting together his iron boat, the rest went back for another load. The iron boat-frame is to be covered with skins and requires a quantity of thin shaved strips of wood for lining. In the forenoon we put the frame together, which is 36 feet long, 4J -wide, and two feet two inches deep. In the afternoon Captain Lewis and one of the men went down to Medicine River, which is about two miles distant; to see whether the three men sent there to hunt had procur- ed any elk skins. In the evening they found one of the hunters, and encamped with him all night. Monday 24. In the morning Captain Lewis came up AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 97 to our camp. We found it very difficult to procure stuff for the boat. The two men which Captain Lewis had left in the morning came to our camp in the afternoon, but had seen nothing of the other two hunters. In the evening there was a very heavy shower of rain; at night the weather cleared up, and the men arrived with two more canoes. The two hunters which Captain Lewis could not find, had killed some buffalo below the mouth of the Medicine river, where one remained, and the other had gone across to the camp below the falls again, but had found no elk. Tuesday 25. A cloudy morning. The men went back for more canoes and baggage; and one went down to the hunter's camp below Medicine river to bring him up in a canoe. Another went up the river to look for elk. When he had gone about three miles, he was attacked by three brown bears, that were near devouring him ; but he made his escape by running down a steep bank into the water. In this adventure he fell, injured his gun, and hurt one of his hands; therefore returned to camp. One of the men and myself went over to an island to look for stuff for the canoe, but could find noth- ing but bark, which perhaps will answer. We killed two elk on the island. There is in the bottoms a great quan- tity of spear-rnint and currant bushes. Also multitudes of blackbirds. The musketoes are very troublesome, though the snow is on the mountains so near. In the evening the two men came up the river with a quantity of good meat and 100 pounds of tallow. Wednesday 26. A fine morning. Two hunters went up the river, and myself and another went over the river to collect bark ; where a great gang of buffalo came near us, and we killed seven of them. In the evening the men returned over the plains with two more canoes and baggage. One man fell very sick and Captain Lewis had to bleed him with a penknife, having no other instrument at this camp. Captain Clarke measured the length of this portage accurately and found it to be 18 miles. He also measured the heighth of the falls, and found them in a distance of 17 miles, 362 feet nine inches. The first 7 AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 99 great pitch 98 feet, the second 19 feet, the third 47 feet eight inches, the fourth 26 feet, and a number of small pitches, amounting altogether to 362 feet nine inches. Thursday 27. A fine day. The men went back for the remaining canoe and baggage. The sick man has become better. This morning some elk came close to camp and we killed two of them. In the afternoon a dreadful hail storm came on, which lasted half an hour. Some of the lumps of ice that fell weighed three ounces, and measured seven inches in circumference. The ground was covered with them, as white as snow. It kept cloudy during the evening and some rain fell. At night ths two hunters that went up the river returned. They had killed while out nine elk and three bears. Friday 28. A fine morning. There are but six per- sons now at this camp, but all busy about the boat; some shaving skins, soms sewing them together, and some pre- paring the wood part. The following, as related by a traveller, is a striking, but melan- choly picture of cruelty towards the brute creation, mingling itself in what are called national sports. In perusing accounts such as these, we cannot but reflect with satisfaction, that, in this country, all public exhibitions in which the inferior animals are made to bleed for the mere amusement of man, may be said to be entirely abandoned, as unmanly and unbecoming a Christian people. "We again repaired to the palace at an early hour; the Rajah was ready to receive us, and after a slight refreshment, we took our sta- tion in the gallery to witness the second day's sports. We were prepared for an unusual sight. A lion was to be turned into the arena with an African buffalo, purchased by his Highness some months before, and which still remained uncommonly wild and fierce. We had not long taken our station in the gallery, before the buffalo was driven from its stall. The moment it entered the enclosure it began to bellow and plunge violently, throwing the dirt from its heels into the air at least a dozen feet high. It was a bony animal, as large as a Durham ox, though not, perhaps, quite so tall, its legs being short in proportion to its size. It had an im- mense head, with long horns, that curbed like those of a ram, whilst its large projecting eye and dilated nostril gave it an expression of extreme fierceness. There was scarcely any hair upon its body, except on the neck and tail: at the extremity of the latter appeared a large tuft, very thick and coarse. It was altogether a very noble creature, full of strength and fury. After a few moments the bars of the lion's cage were raised, and 100 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Saturday 29. We had a very hard gust of wind and rain in the morning; but a fine forenoon after it. Cap- tain Lewis and a hunter went down the river about seven miles, to see a very large spring which rises out of the bank of the Missouri on the south side. In the after- noon there was another heavy shower of rain, and after it a fine evening. Captain Lewis came to camp, but drenched with rain. Sunday 30. A fine morning, and heavy dew, which is very rare in this country. The men with the canoe and baggage did not return, as we expected. Monday, July 1, 1805. A fine day. In the after- noon, Captain Clarke and the men came with all the baggage except some they had left six miles back. The hail that fell on the 27th hurt some of the men very badly. Captain Clarke, the interpreter, and the squaw and child, had gone to see the spring at the falls ; and when the storm began, they took shelter under a bank at the mouth of a run; but in five minutes there was seven feet water the kingly animal bounded forward. It was one of the finest I had ever seen. A Hindoo sage has said that "the elephant, the lion, and the wise man, seek their safety in flight; but the crow, the deer, and the coward, die in their nest." In the present instance, how- ever, the lion was fully vindicated from the obloquy of such vul- gar wisdom, as will be presently seen. It stalked majestically forward, but, seeing the buffalo, dropped upon its belly, swept the ground with its tail, and then uttering a short growl, made two or three leaps, and sprang upon its adversa- ry's neck without further preliminaries. The sudden shock brought the buffalo upon its knees; but immediately recovering, the latter threw back its head with a violence that disloged the lion, casting it with prodigious force against the strong wooden palings of the enclosure, at the same time striking one of its horns into the flank of its assailant and opening a hideous gash. The lion was for a moment stunned; nevertheless, before its enemy had time to take advantage of its condition, it was on its legs, and had again sprung upon the buffaloes neck, which it lacerated dreadfully. There was now a deadly struggle; but the latter, repeating the same action which had before disengaged it from the gripe of its tawny foe, threw the lion against the palings with still greater violence than before, and there gored it with an animation that soon entirely disabled the noble beast from renewing the contest. The buffalo was by this time so exhausted that it fell by the side of its prostrate enemy. After some exertion the keepers got it upon its legs and led it from the scene of combat. The lion was with difficulty drag- ged into its cage, but in a few days appeared little the worse. 1 ' AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 101 in the run; and they were very near being swept away. They lost a gun, and umbrella and a Surveyor's com- pass, and barely escaped with their lives. Tuesday 2. A fine morning. The Surveyor's com- pass which had been lost was found to day. The men went out for the baggage which had been left on the way, and got in with the whole of it, and canoes safe. In the evening, the most of the corps crossed over to an island, to attack and rout its monarch, a large brown bear, that held possession and seemed to defy all that would attempt to besiege him there. Our troops, however, stormed the place, gave no quarter, and its commander fell. Our army returned the same evening to camp with- out having suffered any loss on their side. Wednesday 3. A fine morning. I was so engaged with the boat, that I had not visited the falls. I therefore set out with one of the men to-day for that purpose. I found the 2nd pitch the most beautiful, though not the highest. About a mile below the upper pitch, the largest and most beautiful spring rises out of the bank of the Missouri on the south side that I ever beheld. We had a light shower of rain. During this excursion I saw more buifalo than I had seen any day previous: we killed seven of them before we returned to camp. We also saw 25 wolves in one gang or pack. Thursday 4. A fine day. A part of the men were busily engaged at the boat, and others in dressing skins for clothing, until about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, when we drank the last of our spirits in celebrating the day, and amused ourselves with dancing till 9 o'clock at night, when a shower of rain fell and we retired to rest. Friday 5. A fine morning. All the men, except five of us who where engaged at the boat, went to hunt ; at night they came in and had killed several buffalo and some cabres or antelopes. Saturday 6. As many of the hands as could find room to work were engaged at the boat; and four went down the river to hunt buifalo, in order to get their skins to cover our craft: This was a beautiful and pleasant day. 102 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Sunday 7. The morning was fine. The hunters had remained out all night. In the evening some few drops of rain fell ; and the hunters came in ; but had not had good luck, the buffalo being mostly out in the plains. At night we got our boat finished, all but greasing; and she was laid out to dry. Monday 8. Again we had a fine morning, and a num- ber of the party went out to hunt. In the evening they all came in, and had killed but three buffalo, a deer and a cabre ; and caught a small animal almost like a cat, of a light color. Yesterday one of the men caught a small squirrel, like a ground squirrel, but of a more dun color, and more spotted. We finished the boat this evening, having covered her with tallow and coal-dust. We cal- led her the Experiment, and expect she will answer our purpose. Tuesday 9. A fine morning, and heavy dew. In the forenoon we loaded our canoes, and put the Experiment into the water. She rides verylight but leaks some. In the afternoon a storm of wind, with some rain came on from the north west, and we had again to unload some of our canoes, the waves ran so high. After the storm we had a fine evening. The tallow and coal were found not to answer the purpose; for as soon as dry, it cracked and scaled off, and the water came through the skins. There- fore for want of tar or pitch we had, after all our labor, to haul our new boat on shore, and leave it at this place. Wednesday 10. A fine cool morning. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke thought it would be best to make two canoes more, if we could get timber large enough. So Captain Clarke and 10 men set out in search of it. Some of the hunters having seen large timber about 20 miles up the river, the canoes were sent on loaded, and a party went by land; the distance that way being only six or seven miles. If timber is found, the canoes are to unload and return for the remainder of the baggage. Captain Lewis myself and nine men staid to take the boat asun- der and bury her; and deposited her safely under ground. Captain Lewis had an observation at 12 which gave 47 3. 10. N. Latitude. In the afternoon I went out to see if AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 103 there were any buffalo noar, but found none: they appear to have all left the river. On the bank of a run where there are high rocks, I found a groat quantity of sweet gooseberries, all ripe. Thursday 11. We continued here waiting for ths return of the canoes until 2 o'clock; then four of us went out and killed a buffalo and brought in part of the meat. The canoes did not come back this evening. Friday 12. A fine morning. Myself and three of the men went up the river to assist Captain Clarke's par- ty. In our way we passed a small bottom on the north side of the river, in which there is an old Indian lodge 216 feet in circumference. Here we saw some wild pigeons and turtle doves. Having gone about seven miles we found Captain Clarke's party, who had cut down two trees and taken off logs for canoes, one 25 and the other 30 feet in length. The canoes had returned to our old camp, where Captain Lewis was. Saturday 13. A fine day, but high wind. Captain Lewis carne up here, accompanied by the squaw. He informed us that the canoes had started with all the bag- gage from the former encampment, which we had called White-bear camp. The musketoss are very trouble- some. This evening the canoes were finished except the putting in some knees. Sunday 14. A fine morning. About 11 o'clock the men came up with the canoes and baggage. The dis- tance by water was found to be 22 miles, and by land only six miles. In the afternoon some rain fell but we continued to work at the canoes, and finished them ready for loading. CHAPTER X. Monday 15. After a night of heavy rain, we had a pleasant morning, and loaded the canoes. About 11 o'clock we set out from this place, which we had called Canoe camp; had fine still water, and passed some hand- some small bottoms on both sides of the river. We also passed a handsome river on the south side, about 100 104 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE yards wide, which seemed to have its source in a large mountain on the same side. The snow appears to have melted from all the mountains in view. The country around is composed of dry plains, with short grass. We passed two small creeks, one on each side of the river; made 26 miles, and encamped on the North side. Tuesday 16. We embarked early and had a fine morning. Captain Lewis and two men went on ahead to the mountain to take an observation. We passed the channel of a river on the south side without water, about 60 yards wide. We had fine water until about 1 o'clock, when we came within about two miles of the mountain; when the water became more rapid; but the current not so swift as below the falls. At this place there are a number of small islands. One of our men has been taken unwell. In the afternoon we continued our voyage, and the water continued very rapid. We got about three miles into the first range of the Rocky Mountains, and encamped on the north side of the river on a sand beach. There is some fine timber on the mountains, but not much in this part. There are great hills of solid rock of a dark color. This day we went about 20 miles. Wednesday 17. We set out early, and the morning was fine and pleasant. At 8 o'clock we came to Captain Lewis's camp, at a very rapid place of the river, and took breakfast. We had here to join the crews of two canoes together, to go up the rapids which were about half a mile long. The Missouri at this place is very narrow. At the head of these rapids a fine spring comes in on the south side, which rises about a quarter of a mile from the river; and has a good deal of small cotton-wood and willows on its banks. There is also another spring below the rapids, but it sinks before it reaches the river. We proceeded on through the mountains, a very desert looking part of the country. Some of the knobs or peaks of these mountains are 700 (perhaps some nearly 1200) feet high, all rock; and though they are almost per- pendicular, we saw mountain sheep on the very tops of them. We saw few other animals to day. The general breadth of the river is 100 yards. We went 11 miles and encamped in a small bottom on the North side.. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 105 Thursday 18. The morning was fair and we proceed- ded on early ; passed Clear-water river on the north side about 50 yards wide, rapid and shallow. There are a great quantity of currants all along the river on both sides in the small bottoms. At breakfast time Captain Clarke with three men went on ahead. About eleven we got through the higher part of the mountains, and to where there is less timber and the rocks not so large. In the forenoon we passed two small creeks on the north side, and in the afternoon a small river on the same side ; above the mouth of which we got a deer skin, that Captain Clarke's man had hung, up. The country continues much the same. We made 20 miles this day. Friday 19. A fine morning. At nine we came to high parts of the mountains, which had a good deal of pine, spruce and cedar on them, and where there were not so many rocks ; but no timber in the bottoms except some small willows. About 1 o'clock we had thunder, light- ning and rain, which continued an hour or two, and then the weather became clear. This afternoon we passed parts of the mountains, that were very high, and mostly of solid rock of a light color. The mountains are so close on the river on both sides that we could scarcely find room to encamp. We went 20 miles and encamped on the South side. After night some rain fell. Saturday 20. We had a fine morning, and embarked early. About eight we got out of the high part of the mountains, and came to where they are lower and not so rocky; and where there are the finest currants I ever saw of different kinds, red, yellow and black; the black are the most palatable. There is also a good portion of tim- ber on the mountains all along this part. We killed an elk in our way, and found the skin of one which Captain Clarke had left on the bank with a note, informing us he would pass the mountain he was then on, and wait for the canoes. We passed a small creek on the south side, and about two o'clock came to a level plain on fche north side, from which we saw a strong smoke rising, and supposed it was from a fire made by Captain Clarke. The river is very crooked in general, and here is a great bend to the 106 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE southeast; and in the afternoon it turned so far that our course was north of east. We proceeded on through a valley between two mountains, one of which we passed, and the other is in view ahead. We went 15 miles and encamped at the mouth of a small run on the South side. Sunday 21. We set out at sun rise and had a pleasant morning; passed some middling high hills on the river, and rocks of a red purple color; also two small creeks, one on each side. There are a few pines on the hills. At noon our course began to change more to the south- west again; the wind blew very hard and some drops of rain fell. In the afternoon we passed through a ridge, where the river is very narrow ; and close above a large cluster of small islands, where we had some difficulty to get along, the water being so much separated. We went 15 miles and a half, and encamped on the south side, on a beautiful prairie bottom. One of our hunters killed a fine deer. Monday 22. We embarked- early, the weather being pleasant; passed some fine springs on the southern shore, and a large island near the northern. On the south side the country is level to a good distance, but on the north the hills come close to the river. At breakfast our squaw informed us she had been at this place before when small. Here we got a quantity of wild onions. At half past nine, we proceeded on again; passed a large island at noon; and in the afternoon, more islands: and came to a place where Captain Clarke and his party were encamp- ed. They told us they had seen the same smoke, which we had discovered a few days ago, and found it had been made by the natives, who they supposed had seen some of us,' and had fled, taking us for enemies. We went 17 miles and a half and encamped on an island; where we found the musketoes very bad. We saw to day several banks of snow on a mountain west of us. Tuesday 23. A cloudy morning. We embarked early, and at the same time Captain Clarke and four men went on again to endeavor to meet with some of the natives. We had rapid water, and passed a grate number of islands. Captain Clarke and his men killed four deer AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 107 and a cabre, and left the skins and meat on the shore, where we could easily find them. The course of the river all day was nearly from the south, through a valley of 10 or 12 miles wide. The mountains are not so high nor so rocky, as those we passed. Large timber is not plenty, but there are a great quantity of small shrubs and willows. We passed a small river on the south side, and some banks of very white clay. We encamped on an island, having made 24 miles. Wednesday 24. The morning was fine, and we early prosecuted our voyage; pa c sed a bank of very red earth, which our squaw told us the natives use for paint. Deer are plenty among the bushes, and one of our men killed one on the bank. We continued through the valley all day; went 19 miles and encamped on the North side. Thursday 25. We embarked and passed on at the usual time, in a fine morning; we passed a beautiful plain on the north side, and at 2 o'clock we came to the entrance of another chain of mountains; where we took dinner and again went on. Passing through this chain we found some difficult rapids, but good water between them. This chain of mountains are not so high, nor so rocky as those passed before. Six very fine springs rise on the southern shore, about four miles above the entrance of this range. We went 16 miles and encamped on the North side. Friday 26. The morning was fine and we continued our course through the mountains. There are some cedar and spruce trees on the shores, but very little of any kind on the mountains. About 1 1 o'clock we got through this range* into a valley: about two came to a large island and halted on it for dinner. A rattle-snake came among our canoes in the water, of a kind different from any 1 had seen. It was about two feet long, of a light color, with small spots all over. One of our hunters went on ahead in the morning, and at this place killed four deer. While we remained here it became cloudy and some rain fell. At 4 o'clock we proceeded on through the valley; passed a creek on the south side, and having made 18 miles and a half, encamped on the same side, where a small mountain comes into the river. 108 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Saturday 27. We continued our voyage early, and had a pleasant morning; proceeded on, and at 9 o'clock got through the small mountain. At the entrance of the valley, a branch of the Missouri comes in on the south side about 60 yards wide; the current rapid but not very deep. Here we took breakfast, and having proceeded on a mile, came to another branch of the same size. There is very little difference in the size of the three branches. On the bank of the north branch we found a note Captain Clarke had left informing us, he was ahead and had gone up that branch. We went on to the point, and, as the men were much fatigued, encamped in order to rest a day or two. After we halted here, it began to rain and con- tinued three hours. About 12 o'clock Captain Clarke and his men came to our encampment, and told us they had been up both branches a considerable distance, but could discover none of the natives. There is a beautiful valley at these forks; and a good deal of timber on the branches, chiefly cotton-wood. " Also currants, goose and service berries, and choak-cherries on the banks. The deer are plenty too; some of the men went out and killed several to-day. Captain Clarke was very unwell and had been so all last night. In the evening the weather became clear and we had a fine night. Sunday 28. As this was a fine day, the men were employed in airing the baggage, dressing skins and hunt- ing. Captain Clarke still continued unwell. Our squaw informed us, that it was at this place she had been taken prisoner by the Grossventers four or five years ago. From this valley we can discover a large mountain with snow on it, towards the southwest; and expect to pass by the northwest end of it. Captain Lewis had a meridian alti- tude here, which gave 45 22. 34. 5. north latitude. We also remained here the 29th, which was a fine day, and the men chiefly employed in the same way. Captain Clarke is getting better. Tuesday 30. We left our encampment at the forks, and proceeded on about 7 o'clock A. M. up the North branch. This branch is about 60 yards wide and six feet deep, with a rapid current. We passed a number of AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 109 islands. The valley continued on the South side all this day; but the spur of a mountain, about five or six miles from the forks came in close on the North side with verv high cliffs of rocks. We encamped where it terminated, having made 13 miles and an half. Wednesday 31. We set out early, and had a fine cool morning with dew. Last night Captain Lewis went on ahead, and the canoes being unable to get on to him, he was obliged to encamp out alone in this howling wilderness. We passed a small creek this morning on the South side, which empties into the river, through two or three mouths, on account of its being much dammed up by the beaver, which are very plenty, At breakfast time we came up to Captain Lewis; and having made 17 miles and three quarters, encamped on an island. Thursday, August 1, 1805. We set out early in a fine morning and proceeded on till breakfast time; when Captain Lewis, myself and the two interpreters went on ahead to look for some of the Snake Indians. Our course lay across a large mountain on the North side, over which we had a very fatiguing trip of about 1 1 miles. We then came to the river again, and found it ran through a handsome valley of from six to eight miles wide. At the entrance of this valley, which is covered with small bushes, but has very little timber, we killed two elk and left the meat for the canoes to take up, as the men stood much in need of it, having no fresh provisions on hand. We crossed a small creek on the North shore, and en- camped on the same side. Friday 2. The morning was fine and we went on at sunrise, proceeded four or five miles and crossed the river. In the middle of the day it was very warm in the valley, and at night very cold; so much so that two blankets were scarce a sufficient covering. On each side of the valley there is a high range of mountains, which run nearly parallel, with some spots of snow on their tops. We killed a deer; went about 24 miles and encamped on the South side. Saturday 3. A fine cool morning. We left a note for Captain Clarke, continued our route along the valley j 110 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE and passed several fine springs that issue from the moun- tains. Currants and service berries are in abundance along this valley, and we regaled ourselves with some of the best I had ever seen. We went about 22 miles and encamped. The night was disagreeably cold. Sunday 4. At sunrise we continued our march, in a fine morning; went about six miles when we came to a fork of the river; crossed the South branch and from a high knob discovered that the river had forked below us, as we could see the timber on the North branch about six or seven miles from the South and West branches. We therefore crossed to the North branch, and finding it not navigable for our canoes, went down to the confluence and left a note for Captain Clarke directing him to take the left hand branch. We then went up the North branch about ten miles and encamped on it. Monday 5. This morning Captain Lewis thought it would be best for me and one of the interpreters to go over to the West branch, and remain there, until he and the other should go higher up the North, cross over in search of Indians and then go down and join us. At night they came to our camp, but had not seen any of the natives, nor any fresh signs. Tuesday 6. We started early to go down to the point to see if the canoes had come up that far, and came upon the North branch about two miles above it. Here we discovered that the people in the canoes had not found the note, and with great difficulty, had proceeded five or six miles up the North branch. , In their return down, one of the canoes was overturned ; a knapsack, shot-pouch and powder-horn lost, and all the rest of the loading wet. We got down to the forks about 12 o'clock, put all our baggage out to dry, and encamped for the night. Some hunters went out and killed three deer. Wednesday 7. We remained here during the fore- noon, which was fair and clear, and where Captain Lewis took a meridian altitude, which made the latitude of this place 45 2 53 North. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we were ready to continue our voyage. In the evening a heavy cloud came up, and we had hard thunder with PAS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. Ill ; lightning and rain. We went on seven miles and en- camped on the North side, when the weather cleared, and wo had a fine night. The canoes came 62 miles and three quarters while we were out. Thursday 8. We proceeded on early and had a plea- sant morning. The West branch which we went up is about 30 yards wide, and the South, which we passed, about 15 yards. Three hunters went by land to-day, and at noon had killed two deer and a goat or cabre. The river is very crooked in this valley. The hunters again went out in the afternoon and killed two more deer. There are no buffalo in this part of the country, and other game is not plenty. We went this day 19 miles. We found out the reason why Captain Clarke did not got tho note left at the point, which was, that a beaver had cut down and dragged off the pole, on which I had fixed it. Friday 9. We set out at sunrise, and had a fine morn- ing with some dew ; proceeded on till 9 o'clock when we halted for breakfast. Here one of the hunters came to us who had been out since the morning the canoes went up the North branch by mistake, and who had that morn- ing preceded them by land. Here also Captain Lewis and throe men started to go on ahead; and at ten we proceeded on with the canoes. The river is narrow and very crooked, and the valley continues about the same breadth. There is some timber on tho mountain on the South side, and white earth or rocks appearing through tho pinos. At noon we halted for dinner, and hauled out one of the canoos, which had sprung a leak and caulked her. This morning our commanding officers thought proper that the Missouri should lose its name at the confluence of the three branches we had left on the 30th ultimo. The North branch, which we went up, they called JEF- FERSON; the West or middle branch, MADISON; the South branch, about two miles up which a beautiful spring comes in, GALLATIN ! and a small river above the forks they called PHILOSOPHY. Of the three branches we had just left, they called the North, Wisdom, the South, Phi- 112 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE lanthrophy, and the West or middle fork, which we con- tinued our voyage along, retained the name of JEFFERSON. We went 14 miles and encamped on the South side. Our two hunters killed but one goat. CHAPTER XL Saturday 10. We set out early in a fine morning, and proceeded on through the valley, until breakfast time, when we came to a place where the river passes through a mountain. This narrow passage is not more than a quarter of a mile in length. At the upper end another valley commences, but not so wide as the one below. There is no timber in the lower end of this valley; and the river very crooked, narrow, and in some places so shallow, that we were obliged to get into the w r ater and drag the canoes along. At 1 o'clock we halted to dine, when a shower of rain came on with thunder and light- ning, and continued an hour, during which some hail fell. Two hunters were out to-day and killed but one deer. We came 13 miles and encamped on the North side. Here the valley begins to be more extensive. Sunday 11. This morning was cloudy and we did not set out until after breakfast. Three hunters were sent out and we proceeded on about three miles, when we came to a large island, which is 3000 miles from the river Du Bois at the mouth of the Missouri. We therefore called it 3000 mile Island. We took up the South side of it, arid had difficulty in passing, the water being shallow. About two, some rain fell. Our hunters killed three deer and a goat. We went 14 miles and encamped on the North side. Monday 12. We proceeded on at the usual time, and three hunters were again sent out. A few drops of rain fell to-day. Our hunters killed four deer; and after making 12 miles we encamped on the North side. Tuesday 13. A cloudy morning. We set out early, through rapid water; the river being crooked and narrow, AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 113 and passed a small creek on the South side. The weather was cold during the whole of this day. We went 16 miles and encamped in a beautiful plain on the South side. Wednesday 14. The morning was clear and cold. We embarked after breakfast; passed a small creek on the North side and a beautiful valley on the same side. Timber is very scarce, and only some few scattering trees along the river. Our hunters came in at noon, who had been out all day yesterday: they had killed five deer and a goat. There are a few deer and goats in this part of the country; and otter and beaver in plenty along the river, but no other kind of game that we could discover. There are some fish in the river and trout of a large size, and of the black kind. We went 15 miles and encamped on the South side where we had great difficulty in pro- curing a sufficient quantity of wood to cook with. Thursday 15. We had a fine morning and proceeded on about 8 o'clock. Having gone two miles, we came to the entrance of a mountain, where Captain Lewis and his party on the second day after their departure had taken dinner; and had left four deer skins. At the en- trance of the mountain there are two high pillars of rocks, resembling towers on each side of the river. The mountains are not very high and do not approach so near the river as some we have passed; they are about a quarter of ^a mile distant, and the river meanders along between them through the bushes and is not more than 20 yards wide, and about a foot and a half deep. The water is very cold, and severe and disagreeable to the men, who are frequently obliged to wade and drag the canoes. We went 15 miles and encamped on the South side. Friday 16. We did not set out till after breakfast, and while here one of the men went out and killed a fine buck. We proceeded through rapid water; the river is very narrow, crooked and shallow. This morning we passed a place where the hills come close to the river for a short distance, and then open on each side of a small valley, which, on account of the great quantity of service 8 114 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE berries in it, we called Service-berry valley. We passed over a rapid of about a quarter of a mile, and encamped on the South side, having come 15 miles. Saturday 17. A fine morning. We proceeded on about two miles, and discovered a number of the natives, of the Snake nation, coming along the bank on the South side. Captain Lewis had been as far as the waters of the Columbia river and met them there. We continued on about two miles further to a place where the river forks, and there halted and encamped, after much fatigue and difficulty. The water is so shallow that we had to drag the canoes, one at a time, almost all the way. The dis- tance across from this place to the waters of the Colum- bia river is about 40 miles, and the road or way said to be good. There were about 20 of the natives came over with Captain Lewis, and had the same number of horses. Here we unloaded the canoes, and had a talk with the Indians; and agreed with them that they should lend us some of their horses to carry -our baggage to the Colum- bia river. Sunday 18. A fine morning. We bought three hor- ses of the Indians. Captain Clarke and 1 1 more, with our interpreter and his wife, and all the Indians set out at 1 1 o'clock to go over to the Columbia. The Indians went for horses to carry our baggage, and we to search for timber to make canoes for descending the Columbia. We proceeded up the north branch which -is the largest and longest branch of Jeiferson river, through a hand- some valley about five miles wide. In this we found a number of springs and small branches, but no timber. There is plenty of grass and clover, and also some flax all along it. The Indians all except five went on ahead. We traveled 15 miles and encamped close on the branch which is about five yards wide. Here we killed two small deer. The country all around is very mountainous, with some few pine trees on the mountains. At 3 o'clock this afternoon there was a violent gust of wind, and some rain fell. In about an hour the weather became clear, and very cold, and continued cold all night. Monday 19. A fine morning, but cold. We proceeded AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 115 on at 8 o'clock along the valley for six miles, when the hills came more close on the branch, which here divides into three parts or other small branches, and two miles further the principal branch again forks, where the moun- tains commence with a thick grove of small pines on our left, and large rocks on our right. At 1 o'clock we dined at the head spring of the Missouri and Jefferson Rivers, about 25 miles from the place, where we had left the canoes, and from which the course is nearly west. About five miles South of us we saw snow on the top of a mountain, and in the morning there was a severe white frost: but the sun shines very warm where we now are. At 3 o'clock, we proceeded on, and at the foot of the dividing ridge, we met two Indians coming to meet us, and who appeared very glad to see us. The people of this nation instead of shaking hands as a token of friend- ship, put their arms round the neck of the person they salute. It is not more than a mile from the head spring of the Missouri to the head of the branches of the Colum- bia. We proceeded on through the mountain; passed some fine springs, and encamped about 36 miles from our camp, where the canoes are. Here we were met by a number of the natives. Tuesday 20. A fine cool frosty morning. We set out early and traveled about four miles, to a village of the Indians on the bank of a branch of the Columbia river, about ten yards wide and very rapid. At this place there are about 25 lodges made of willow bushes. They are the poorest and most miserable nation I ever beheld ; having scarcely any thing to subsist on, except berries and a few fish, which they contrive by some means, to take. They have a great many fine horses, and nothing more; and on account of these they are much harassed by other nations. They move about in any direction where the berries are most plenty. We had a long talk with them, and they gave us very unfavorable accounts with respect to the rivers. From which we understood that they were not navigable down, and expect to perform the route by land. Here we procured a guide, and left our interpreters to go on with the natives, and assist Capt. Lewis and his party to bring on the baggage. 116 JOURNAL OF. LEWIS AND CLARKE Captain Clarke and our party proceeded down the river with our guide, through a valley about four miles wide, of a rich soil, but almost without timber. There are high mountains on both sides, with some pine trees on them. We went about eight miles and encamped by a line spring. One of our men remained behind at the village to buy a horse, and did not join us this evening. Five of the Indians came and stayed with us during the night. They told us that they were sometimes reduced to such want, as to be obliged to eat their horses. Wednesday 21. About 7 o'clock in the morning we continued our journey down the valley, and came to a few lodges of Indians where our guide lives. We re- mained here about two hours, during which time a num- ber of Indians passed us, going to fish. We proceeded on the way the Indians had gone; and one of our men went with them to the fishing place. The valley becomes very narrow here, and a large branch of the river comes in a short distance below. Here we had to ascend high ground, the bottom is so narrow; and continued on the high ground about six miles when we came again to the river, where a fine branch flows in, the valley is four or five miles wide. In this branch we shot a salmon about six pounds weight. We traveled 20 miles this day, and encamped at a place where the mountains come close to the river. In the valley through which we passed and all along the river, there are cherries, currants and other small fruit. The man. who had remained behind at the first village and the other who had gone with the Indians to their fishing place, both joined us here. The Indians gaye them five salmon to bring to us: and he that had stayed for a horse, brought one with him. At this place the river is about 70 yards wide. Thursday 22. The morning was fine, with a great white frost. We began our journey at 7 o'clock; and having traveled about a mile, crossed a branch of the river. Here the mountains come so close on the river, we could not get through the narrows, and had to cross a very high mountain about 3 miles over, and then struck the river again, where there is a small bottom and one 118 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE lodge of the natives in it, gathering berries, haws and cherries for winter food. We soon had to ascend another large mountain, and had to proceed in the same way until we crossed four of them, when we came to a large creek, where there is a small bottom and three lodges of Indians. Three of our men having gone through the bottom to hunt, came first upon the lodges which greatly alarmed the unhappy natives, who all fell a weeping and began to run off; but the party coming up with the guide relieved them from their fears. They then received us kindly and gave us berries and fish to eat. We remained with them about two hours and gave them some presents. Those of the natives, who are detached in small parties, appear to live better, and to have a larger supply of pro- visions, than those who live in large villages. The peo- ple of these three lodges have gathered a quantity of sun- flower seed, and also of the lambs-quarter, which they pound and mix with service berries, and make of the composition a kind of bread; which appears capable of sustaining life for some time. On this bread and the fish they take out of the river, these people, who appear to be the most wretched of the human species, chiefly sub- sist. They gave us some dried salmon, and we proceed- ed down the river; but with a great deal of difficulty: the mountains being so close, steep and rocky. The river here is about 80 yards wide, and a continual rapid, but not deep. We went about 15 miles to day, and encamp- ed on a small island, as there was no oiher level place near. Game is scarce, and we killed nothing since the 1 8th but one deer ; and our stock of provisions is exhaus- ted. Friday 23. We proceeded down. the river through dreadful narrows, where the rocks were in some places breast high, and no path or trail of any kind. This morning we killed a goose, and badly wounded a large buck in the water. One of our sergeants is very unwell. We went on three miles, when Captain Clarke did not think proper to proceed further with the horses, until he should go forward and examine the pass. So we halted on a small flat and breakfasted on some fish the natives AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 119 had given us. Captain Clarke, our guide, and three men then went on. Another Indian who had come on from the last Indian camp remained with us. We had yet seen no timber large enough to make canoes. Two of the hunters went in search of the buck, which had been wounded; and the rest staid at the camp to fish. In the afternoon the men came in from hunting the wounded deer, but could not find him. They killed three prairie hens, or pheasants. At night the sergeant who had been sick, became better. We caught some small fish in the night. The natives take their fish by spearing them; their spears for this purpose are poles with bones fixed to the ends of them, with which they strike the fish. They have but four guns in the nation, and catch goats and some other animals by running them down with horses. The dresses of the women are a kind of shifts made of the skins of these goats and mountain sheep, which come down to the middle of the leg. Some of them have robes, but others none. Some of the men have shirts and some are without any. Some also have robes made of beaver and buffalo skins ; but there are few of the former. I saw one made of ground hog skins. Saturday 24. We had a pleasant morning and some of the men went out to hunt. The river at this place is so confined by the mountains that it is not more than 20 yards wide, and very rapid. The mountains on the sides are not less than 1000 feet high and very steep. There are a few pines growing on them. We caught some small fish to day, and our hunters killed five prairie fowls. These were all we had to subsist on. At 1 o'clock Capt. Clarke and his party returned, after having been down the river about 12 miles. They found it was not possible to go down either by land or water, without much risk and trouble. The water is so rapid and the bed of the river so rocky, that going by water appeared impractica- ble; and the mountains so amazingly high, steep and rocky, that it seemed impossible to go along the river by land. Our guide speaks of a way to sea, by going up the south fork of this river, getting on the mountains that way, and then turning to the south west again. Captain 120 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Clarke therefore wrote a letter to Captain Lewis, and dis- patched a man on horseback to meet him; and we all turned back up the river again, poor and uncomfortable enough, as we had nothing to eat, and there is no game. We proceeded up about three miles, and supperless went to rest for the night. Sunday 25. We set out early and had a fine morn- ing; passed the Indian camp, where they gave us a little dried salmon, and proceeded back again over the moun- tains. Some hunters went on ahead and about 4 o'clock we got over the four mountains, and encamped in the valley. Two men went to hunt, and all the rest to fish. We soon caught as many small fish as made, with two salmon our guide got from some Indians, a comfortable supper. At dark our hunters came in and had killed but one beaver. Monday 26. We had again a pleasant morning; and four hunters went on early ahead, and one man to look for the horses. We breakfasted on the beaver and a salmon, which had been saved from supper the preceding evening. The man, who had gone for the horses, having returned without finding them, four or five more went out, and our guide immediately found them. We then about 10 o'clock, proceeded on to the forks, where we found our hunters; but they had killed nothing. So we went up to a small village of the natives, got some fish from them, and lodged there all night. Tuesday 27. A fine morning with frost; and eight of us went out to hunt. I observed some flax growing in the bottoms on this river, but saw no clover or timothy, as I had seen on the Missouri and Jefferson rivers. There is a kind of wild sage or hyssop, as high as a man's head, full of branches and leaves, which grows in these bottoms, with shrubs of different kinds. In the evening we all came in again, and had killed nothing but a fish. We got some more from the natives, which we subsisted on. We lodged here again all night, but heard nothing from Captain Lewis. Wednesday 28. The morning again was pleasant, AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 121 and I went on to the upper village, where I found Capt. Lewis and his party buying horses. They had got 23 which with two we had, made in the whole 25. 1 then returned to our camp, a distance of 15 miles, and arrived there late. I found the weather very cold for the season. Thursday 29. There was a severe white frost this morning. Captain Clarke and all the men except myself and another who remained to keep camp and prepare packsaddles, went up to Captain Lewis's camp. While I lay here to day, one of the natives shewed me their method of producing fire, which is somewhat curious. They have two sticks ready for the operation, one about nine and the other eighteen inches long: the short stick they lay down flat and rub the end of the other upon it in a perpendicular direction for a few minutes; and the friction raises a kind of dust, which in a short time takes fire. These people make willow baskets so close and to such perfection as to hold water, for which purpose they make use of them. They make much use of the sun- flower and lambs-quarter seed, as before mentioned; which with berries and wild cherries pounded together, compose the only bread they have any knowledge of, or in use. The fish they take in this river are of excellent kinds, especially the salmon, the roes of which when dried and pounded make the best of soup. Friday 30. We remained here all day, and in the evening the whole of the corps came down within a mile of our camp, and remained there all night, being a good place for grass. Saturday 31. They all came down to our camp, and we proceeded on with 27 horses and one mule. Our old guide after consulting with the rest of the Indians, thought it was better to go along the north side of the Columbia, than on the south side. We therefore proceeded down, the same way Captain Clarke had been before, 30 miles, and then turned up a creek that comes in from the north, and encamped on it about three miles and a half from the mouth. Two hunters had gone on ahead this morning, and at night joined us, having killed one deer. The first 122 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE cost of the articles, which had been given for each horse, did not amount to more than from three to five dollars; so that the whole of them only cost about one hundred dol- lars. CHAPTER XII. Sunday, September 1, 1805. We set out early in a fine morning, and traveled on nearly a west course. We found here the greatest quantity and best service berries, I had ever seen before ; and abundance of choak-cherries. There is also a small bush grows in this part of the coun- try, about six inches high, which bears a bunch of small purple berries. Some call it mountain holly; the fruit is of an acid taste. We are much better supplied with water than I expected; and crossed several fine springs among the mountains through which we pass. At noon some rain fell, and the day continued cloudy. About the middle of the day Capt. Clarke's blaekman's feet became so sore that he had to ride on horseback. At 3 o'clock we came to a creek, where there was fine grass and we halted to let our horses eat. There are a great number of fish in this creek. After we halted the weath- er became cloudy, and a considerable quantity of rain fell. We therefore concluded to remain where we were all night, having come this day 18 miles. Our hunters killed a deer, and we caught five fish. Monday 2. The morning was cloudy. We set out early ; proceeded up the creek, and passed some parts closely timbered with spruce and pine. We went on with difficulty on account of the bushes, the narrowness of the way and stones that injured our horses feet, they they being without shoes. In the forenoon we killed some pheasants and ducks, and a small squirrel. In the afternoon we had a good deal of rain, and the worst road (if road it can be called) that was ever traveled. The creek is become small and the hills come close in upon AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 123 the banks of it, covered thick with standing timber and fallen trees; so that in some places we were obliged to go up the sides of the hills, which are very steep, and then down again in order to get along at all. In going up these ascents the horses would sometimes fall backwards, which injured them very much ; and one was so badly hurt that the driver was obliged to leave his load on the side of one of the hills. In the low ground there are most beautiful tall strait pine trees of different kinds, except of white pine. Game is scarce; and a small quantity of dried salmon, which we got from the natives is almost our whole stock of provisions. A son of our guide joined us to day and is going on. We went 13 miles and encamped; but some of the men did not come up till late at night. Tuesday 3. The morning of this day was cloudy and cool. Two men went back with a horse to bring on the load, which had been left behind last night; and we breakfasted on the last of our salmon, and waited their return. Two hunters were sent on ahead, and on the return of the two men, who had been sent back, we pur- sued our journey up the creek, which still continued fatiguing almost beyond description. The country is very mountainous and thickly timbered; mostly with spruce pine. Having gone nine miles we halted for dinner, which was composed of a small portion of flour we had along and the last of our pork, which was but a trifle: Our hunters had not killed any thing. We staid here about two hours, during which time some rain fell and the weather was extremely cold for the season. We then went on about three miles over a large mountain, to the head of another creek and encamped there for the night. This was not the creek our guide wished to have come upon ; and to add to our misfortunes we had a cold even- ing with rain. Wednesday 4. A considerable quantity of snow fell last night, and the morning was cloudy. After eating a few grains of parched corn, we set out at 8 o'clock; crossed a large mountain and hit on the creek and small valley, which were wished for by our guide. We killed 124 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE some pheasants on our way, and were about to make use of the last of our flour, when to our great joy, one of our hunters killed a fine deer. So we dined upon that and proceeded down a small valley about a mile wide, with a rich black soil ; in which there are a great quantity of sweet roots and herbs,such as sweet myrrh, angelica and several other, that the natives make use of, and of the names of which I am unacquainted. There is also tim- othy grass growing in it; and neither the valley nor the hills are so thickly timbered, as the mountains we had lately passed. What timber there is, is mostly pitch pine. We kept down the valley about five miles, and came to the Tussapa band of the Flathead nation of Indians, or a part of them. We found them encamped on the creek and we encamped with them. * Thursday 5. This was a fine morning with a great white frost. The Indian dogs are so hungry and raven- ous, that they eat four or five pair of our moccasons last night. We remained here all day, and recruited our horses to 40 and three colts; and made four or five of this nation of Indian chiefs. They are a very friendly peo- ple; have plenty of robes and skins for covering, and a large stock of horses, some of which are very good; but they have nothing to eat, but berries, roots and such arti- cles of food. This band is on its way over to the Mis- souri or Yellow-Stone river to hunt buffalo. They are the whitest Indians I ever saw. Friday 6. A cloudy morning. W r e exchanged some of our horses, that were fatigued, with the natives; about 12 o'clock some rain fell; and we prepared to move on. At one we started, when the Indians also set out. We proceeded over a mountain to a creek, and went down the creek, our course being northwest; found the country mountainous and poor; and the game scarce. Having * Captain Clarke in his letter to his brother, calls them the Olenchshoot band of the Tucknapax. It is of no very great im- portance, at present, to know by what names the several tribes and bands are distinguished; and Mr. Gass says that without an inter- preter it was very difficult to ascertain them with any degree of certainty. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 125 traveled about seven miles we encamped. Four hunters had been out to day, but killed nothing; we therefore supped upon a small quantity of corn we had yet left. Saturday 7. We set out early in a cloudy cool morn- ing; and our hunters went on as usual. We proceeded down the creek, and in our way we were met by a hun- ter, who had not come in last night, and who had lost his horse. We halted at 12 o'clock, and one of the hunters killed two deer; which was a subject of much joy and congratulation. Here we remained to dine, and some rain fell. On the south of this place there are very high mountains covered with snow and timber, and on the north prairie hills. After staying here two hours we pro- ceeded on down the creek; found the country much the same as that which we had passed through in the fore- noon; and having traveled about 20 miles since the morning, encamped for the night. The valley is become more extensive, and our creek has increased to a con- siderable river. Some rain fell in the afternoon, and our hunters killed two cranes on our way. Sunday 8. The morning was wet, and we proceeded on over some beautiful plains. One of our hunters had remained out all night, at noon we halted and they all came in, having killed an elk and a deer. At two we proceeded on again, and had a cold, wet and disagreeable afternoon, but our road or way was level along the valley. Having traveled 20 miles, we encamped and our hunters came in, one of whom had killed a deer, and another had caught two mares and a colt, which he brought with him. Monday 9. The morning was fair, but cool; and we continued our journey down the river. The soil of the valley is poor and gravelly; and the high snow-topped mountains are still in view on our left: Our course gen- erally north a few degrees west. We halted at noon: on our way the hunters had killed three wild geese; so we have plenty of provisions at present. At 2 o'clock we again went forward, and crossed over the Flathead river, about 100 yards wide, and which we called Clarke's river; passed through a close timbered bottom of about two miles, and again came into beautiful plains. The timber J26 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE on this bottom is pitch pine. We traveled 19 miles and encamped on a large creek, which comes in from the south. Our hunters this day killed three deer. Tuesday 10. We remained here all this day, which was clear and pleasant, to let our horses rest, and to take an observation. At night our hunters came in, and had killed five deer. With one of the hunters, three of the Flathead Indians came to our camp. They informed us that the rest of their band was over on the Columbia river, about five or six days' journey distant, with pack-horses; that two of the Snake nation had stolen some of their horses, and that they were in pursuit of them. We gave them some presents, and one stayed to go over the mountains with us ; the other two continued their pursuit. Wednesday 11. This was a fine morning, and we went out to collect our horses, in order to renew our journey, and found all but one. Captain Lewis had a meridian altitude that gave 46 48. 28. 8. north latitude. In the bottoms here, there are a "great quantity of cher- ries. The mountains are not so high, as at some distance back. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon the horse was found, and we proceeded on up the creek nearly a west course, through small bottoms. We went about six miles and encamp ad; when our hunters came in but had killed nothing. The country is poor and mountainous. Thursday 12. We started early on our journey and had a fine morning. Having traveled two miles we reached the mountains which are very steep; but the road over them pretty good, as it is much traveled by the natives , who come across to the Flathead river to gather cherries and berries. Our hunters in a short time killed four deer. At noon we halted at a branch of the creek, on the banks of which are a number of strawberry vines, haws, and service berry bushes. At two we proceeded on over a large mountain, where there is no water, and we could find no place to encamp until late at night , when we arrived at a small branch, and encamped by it, in a very inconvenient place, having come 23 miles. Friday 13. A cloudy morning. Captain Lewis's horse could not be found ; but some of the men were left AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 127 to hunt for him and we proceeded on. When we had gone two miles, we came to a most beautiful warm spring, the water of which is considerably above blood-heat ; and I could not bear my hand in it without uneasiness. There are so many paths leading to and from this spring, that our guide took a wrong one for a mile or two, and we had bad traveling across till we got into the road again. At noon we halted. Game is scarce; and our hunters killed nothing since yesterday morning; though four of the best were constantly out, and every one of them furnished with a good horse. While we remained here, Captain Lewis and the men, who had been left with him, came up; but had not found the horse. At 2 o'clock we proceeded on again over a mountain, and in our way found a deer, which our hunters had killed and hung up. In a short time we met with them, and Captain Lewis sent two back to look for the horse. We passed over a divi- ding ridge to the waters of another creek, and after tra- veling 12 miles wo encamped on the creek, up which there are some prairies or plains. Saturday 14. We set out early in a cloudy morning; passed over a large mountain, crossed Stony creek, about 30 yards wide, and then went over another large moun- tain, on which I saw service-berry bushes hanging full of fruit; but not yet ripe, owing to the coldness of the climate on these mountains: I also saw a number of other shrubs, which bear fruit, but for which I know no names. There are black elder and bore-tree, pitch and spruce pine all growing together on these mountains. Being here unable to find a place to halt at, where our horses could feed, we went on to the junction of Stony creek, with another large creek, which a short distance down becomes a considerable river, and encamped for the night, as it rained and was disagreeable traveling. The two hunters, that had gone back here joined us with Captain Lewis's horse, but none of the hunters killed any thing except two or three pheasants; on which, without a miracle it was impossible to feed 30 hungry men and upwards, besides some Indians. So Captain Lewis gave out some portable soup, which he had along, to be used 128 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE in cases of necessity. Some of the men did not relish this soup, and agreed to kill a colt ; which they immedi- ately did, and set about roasting it; and which appeared to me to be good eating. This day we traveled seven- teen miles. CHAPTER XIII. Sunday 15. Having breakfasted on colt we moved on down the river three miles, and again took the moun- tains. In going up, one of the horses fell, and required eight or ten men to assist him in getting up again. We contin- ued our march to 2 o'clock when we halted at a spring and dined on portable soup and a handful of parched corn. We then proceeded on our journey over the mountain to a high point, where, it being dark, we were obliged to encamp. There was here no water; but a bank of snow answered as a substitute; and we supped upon soup. Monday 16. Last night about 12 o'clock it began to snow. We renewed our march early, though the morn- ing was very disagreeable, and proceeded over the most terrible mountains I ever beheld: It continued snowing until 3 o'clock P. M. when we halted, took some more soup, and went on till we came to a small stream where we encamped for the night. Here we killed another- colt and supped on it. The snow fell so thick, and the day was so dark, that a person could not see to a distance of 200 yards. In the night and during the day the snow fell about 10 inches deep. Tuesday 17. Our horses scattered so much last night, that they were not collected until noon, at which time we began our march again. It was a fine day with warm sunshine, which melted the snow very fast on the south sides of the hills, and made the traveling very fatiguing and uncomfortable. We continued over high desert mountains, where our hunters could find no game, nor AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 129 signs of any except a boar's tract which they observed to day. At dark we halted at a spring on the top of a mountain; killed another colt, and encamped there all night. Wednesday 18. This was a clear cold frosty morn- ing. All our horses except one were collected early: Six hunters went on ahead; one man to look for the horse; and all the rest of us proceeded on our journey over the mountains, which are very high and rough. About twelve we passed a part where the snow was off, and no appearance that much had lately fallen. At three we came to snow again, and halted to take some soup, which we made with snow water, as no other could be found. Here the man, who had been sent for the horse came up, but had not found him. Except -on the sides of hills where it has fallen, the country is closely timber- ed with pitch and spruce pine, and what some call balsam- fir. We can see no prospect of gatting off these desert mountains yet, except the appearance of a deep cove on each side of the ridga we are passing along. We remain- ed here an hour and a half, and then proceeded on down a steep mountain, and encamped after traveling 18 miles. We had great difficulty in getting water, being obliged to go half a mile for it down a very steep precipice. Thursday 19. Our hunters did not join us last night, which was disagreeably cold. About eight this morning we set out, and proceeded on in our way over the moun- tains; the sun shining warm and pleasant. We traveled a west course, and about 12 o'clock halted at a spring to take a little more soup. The snow is chiefly gone except on the north points of the high mountains. At two P. M. we again went on, and descended a steep mountain into a cove on our left hand, where there is a large creek, which here runs towards the east. The hills on each side, along which the trail or path passes, are very steep. One of our horses fell down the precipice about 100 feet, and was not killed, nor much hurt: the reason was, that there is no bottom below, and the precipice, the only bank, which the creek has, therefore the horse pitched into the water, without meeting with any intervening 9 130 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE object, which could materially injure him. We made 17 miles this day and encamped on a small branch of the creek. Having heard nothing from our hunters, we again supped upon some of our portable soup. The men are becoming lean and debilitated, on account of the scarcity and poor quality of the provisions on which we subsist: our horses' feet are also becoming very sore. We have, however, some hopes of getting soon out of this horrible mountainous desert, as we have discovered the appearance of a valley or level part of the country about 40 miles ahead. When this discovery was made there was as much joy and rejoicing among the corps, as happens among passengers at sea, who have experienced a dan- gerous and protracted voyage, when they first discover land on the long looked for coast. Friday 20. It was late before our horses were collec- ted, but the day was fine; and at 9 o'clock we continued our march. Having proceeded about a mile, we came to a small glade, where our hunters had found a horse, and had killed, dressed and hung him up. Captain Clarke, who had gone forward with the hunters, left a note informing us that he and they intended to go on to the valley or level country ahead, as there was no chance of killing any game in these desert mountains. We loaded the meat and proceeded along the mountains. At noon we stopped and dined, on our horse flesh: here we discov- ed that a horse, having Captain Lewis's clothes and bag- gage on him, had got into the bushes while we were load- ing the meat, and was left behind. One of the men therefore was sent back, but returned without finding him. Two other men with a horse were then sent back, and we continued our march along a ridge, where there are rocks, that appear to be well calculated for making millstones; and some beautiful tall cedars among the spruce pine. Night came on before we got off this ridge, and we had much difficulty in finding water. The soil on the western side of the mountains appears much better than on the east; and not so rocky. We can see the valley ahead, but a great ways off. Saturday 21. The morning was pleasant; but it was 132 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE late before we got our horses collected. About 10 o'clock we were ready to start; and passed along the ridge with a great deal of difficulty and fatigue, our march being much impeded by the fallen timber. A great portion of the timber through which we passed along this ridge is dead, and a considerable part fallen; and our horses are weak and much jaded. One of them got into a small swamp, and wet a bale of merchandize. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon we got down the mountain to a creek, which runs nearly southwest. This course we suppose is a very good one for us. We went down this creek about a mile, and encamped on it for the night in a small rich bottom. Here we killed a duck and two or three pheasants; and supped upon them and the last of our horse meat. We also killed a wolf and eat it. The hunters did not join us this evening, nor the two men who went to look for the horse. Sunday 22. This was a fine warm day. About 9 o'clock we continued our route over a ridge about a west course, upon the top of which there is a handsome small prairie; where we met one of our hunters with a supply of roots, berries and some fish, which he procured from another band of the Flathead nation of Indians. Cap- tain Clarke and the hunters had arrived on the 20th at the encampment or lodges of these Indians which are in a beautiful prairie, about eight or nine miles from this place. The roots they use are made into a kind of bread; which is good and nourishing, and tastes like that some- times made of pumkins. We remained here about an hour and then proceeded on again, down the ridge along a very rough way; and in the evening arrived in a fine large valley, clear of these dismal and horrible moun- tains. Here our two men overtook us; who had found the lost horse and clothing, but on their way to us lost both the horses. The Indians belonging to this band, received us kindly, appeared pleased to see us, and gave us such provisions as they had. We were at a loss for an interpreter, none of our interpreters being able to understand them. Captain Clarke met us here: he had been over at the river, and found the distance 18 miles AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 133 ind a good road from this place. He thinks we will be ible to take the water again at the place he had been at; md where he left five hunters, as there was some game ibout the river in that quarter. Monday 23. The morning was warm and pleasant. We stayed here some time to procure provisions from the latives, for which we gave them in exchange a number >f small articles. The provisions which we got consist- ed of roots, bread and fish. Their bread is made of roots Tvhich they call comas, and which resemble onions in shape, but are of a sweet taste. This bread is manufac- ;ured by steaming, pound'ng and baking the roots on a din they have for the purpose. About 4 o'clock we enewed our journey, and went two miles to another small tillage, through a beautiful rich plain, in which these roots grow in abundance. We halted at the second tillage all night and got some more provisions. About lark a shower of rain fell. Tuesday 24. The morning was fine, and about nine >'clock we set forward on our march towards the river, all >ut one man who had gone back to look for the horses tnd another who had remained at the first village. Tho nen are generally unwell, owing to the change of diet. Fhe valley is level and lightly timbered with pine and spruce trees. The soil is thin except in some small plains, where it is of the first quality. The adjacent country appears much the same; except that on the river t is broken with hills and some rocks. In the valley ;here are great quantities of service-berry bushes. In ;he evening we arrived at the camp of our hunters on a river about 100 yards broad, a branch of the Columbia. Phe natives say it is two days march to the great river. We encamped on a small island with our hunters who had killed five deer, which was a very pleasing circum- stance to us; as the Indian provisions did not agree with us. Captain Clarke gave all the sick a dose of Rush's Pills, to see what effect that would have. We found some of the natives here upon the river fishing. Wednesday 25. A fine, pleasant, warm morning. 134 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE The hunters went out early and Captain Clarke rode out to see if there were any trees to be found large enough for canoes. The men in general appear to be getting much better; but Captain Lewis is very sick and talcing medicine; and myself and two or three of the men are yet very unwell. The climate here is warm ; and the heat to day was as great as we had experienced at any time during the summer. The water also is soft and warm, and perhaps causes our indisposition more than any thing else. In the evening Captain Clarke returned to camp, having discovered a place about five or six miles down the river, where a large branch comes in on the north side that will furnish timber large enough for our purpose. Our hunters also came in, and had killed nothing but a small panther and a pheasant. The man who had remained at the first village came up. Thursday 26. The morning was fine ; and at 9 o'clock we left our camp; proceeded down the river about five miles to the forks; and pitched our camp in a handsome small bottom opposite the point. A number of the natives came down in small canoes, and encamped close to us, for the purpose of fishing; and while we were encamping we saw a small raft coming down the north fork loaded with fish. There appears to be a kind of sheep in this country, besides the Ibex or mountain sheep, andjwhich have wool on. I saw some of the skins, which the natives had, with wool four inches long, and as fine, white and soft as any I had ever seen. I also saw a buffalo robe with its wool or fur on as fine and soft as that of a beaver. Captain Lewis procured this, which we considered a curiosity, in exchange for another buffalo robe. This band of the Flatheads have a great many beads and other articles, which they say they got from white men at the mouth of this river; or where the salt water is. They have a large stock of horses. Their buffalo robes and other skins they chiefly procure on the Missouri, when they go over to hunt, as there are no buffalo in this part of the country and very little other game. The most of the men of this band are at present on a war AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 135 expedition against some nation to the northwest, that had killed some of their people ; as we understood in our im- perfect communications with thorn. We arranged our camp and made preparations for malting canoes. Friday 27. A fine warm morning. All the men, who were able were employed in making canoes. About 10 o'clock the man came in who had gone to look for the horses, he had found one of them and killed a deer. I feel much relieved from my indisposition. In the evening the greater part of the war party came in, and some of the principal men came down to our camp. We could not understand what they had done, as we could only converse by signs. Medals were given by the Commanding Officers, to throe or four of them as leading men of their nation; and they remained about our camp. The river below the fork is about 200 yards wide; the water is clear as chrystal, from two to five feet deep, and abounding with salmon of an excellent quality. The bottom of the river is stony and ihe banks chiefly composed of a round hard species of stone. Saturday 28. We had a pleasant morning and all hands, that were able, employed at the canoes. Game is very scarce and our hunters unable to kill any meat. We are therefore obliged to live on fish and roots, that we procure from the natives; and which do not appear a sui- table diet for us. Salt also is scarce without which fish is but poor and insipid. Our hunters killed nothing to day. Sunday 29. A fine day; all our hunters went out, and all the men able to work, were employed at tho Canoes. At noon two of our hunters came in with three deer; a very welcome sight to the most of us. Five or six of the men continue unwell. Monday 30. The weather continued pleasant; and our hunters killed a deer. Tuesday, October 1, 1805. This was a fine pleasant warm day. All the men are now able to work ; but the greater number are very weak. To save them from hard labor, we have adopted the Indian method of burning out the canoes. 136 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Wednesday 2. Two men were sent to the Indian village to purchase some provisions as our hunters do not kill enough for us to subsist on. And least the Indian provisions should not agree with us, we killed one of our horses, On the third, the men were employed as usual; on the morning of the fourth there was a white frost, after it a fine day. In the evening our men returned, with a good supply of such provisions as the natives have. Saturday 5. Having got pretty well forward in our canoe making, we collected all our horses and branded them, in order to leave them with the Indians, the old chief having promised that they should be well taken care of. In the evening we got two of our canoes into the water. During the sixth most of the hands were engaged at the other canoes; and we buried our saddles and some am- munition. The morning of ths soventh was pleasant, and we put the last of our canoes into the water; loaded them, and found that they carried all our baggage with conven- ience. We had four large ones; and one small one, to look ahead. About 3 o'clock in tho afternoon we began our voyags down the river, and found the rapids in some places very dangerous. One of our canoes sprung a leak. We therafore halted and mended her, after going 20 miles. The hills come close on the river on both sides; where there are a few pine trees. Back from the river the tops of the hills, to a great distance are prairie land; and the country level. Tuesday 8. At 9 o'clock in a fine morning we con- tinued our voyage down the river: passed three islands and several rapids; and at noon stopped at some Indian lodges, of which there are a great many along the river. At two we proceeded on again. In the evening, in pass- ing through a rapid, I had my canoe stove, and she sunk. Fortunately the water was not more than waist deep, so our lives and baggage were saved, though the latter was wet. We halted and encamped here to repair the canoe, after coming 18 miles. At this place there are some lod- ges of the natives on both sides of the river; a number of AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 137 whom keep about us, and we get some fish from them. Two chiefs of the upper village joined us here, and pro- posed to go on with us, until we should meet with white people; which they say will be at no great distance. Wednesday 9. We stayed here during the whole of this day, which was very pleasant, and repaired our canoe. In the evening we got her completed and all the baggage dry. Here our old Snake guide deserted and took his son with him. I suspect he was afraid of being cast away passing the rapids. At dark one of the squaws, who keep about us, took a crazy fit, and cut her arms from the wrists to the shoulders, with a flint; and the natives had great trouble and difficulty in getting her pacified. We have some Frenchmen, who prefer dog-flesh to fish ; and they here got two or three dogs from the Indians. All the country around is high prairie, or open plains. Thursday 10. We had a fine morning; embarked early, and passed over some very bad rapids. In passing over one, a canoe sprung a leak, but did not sink; though the greater part of the loading was wet; and we had to halt and dry it. We stopped a short distance above the junction of this with another large river. The natives call this eastern branch Koos-koos-ke, and the western Ki-mo-ee-nem. Yesterday evening I had a fit of the ague, and have been very unwell to day; so much so that 1 am unable to steer my canoe. In about two hours we continued our voyage again.; we found the southwest branch very large, and of a goslin-green color. About a mile below the confluence we halted on the north side and encamped for the night, as the wind blew so hard we could not proceed. We came 20 miles to day. Friday 11. We set out early in a fine morning; pro- ceeded on about six miles, and halted at some lodges of the natives, where we got fish and several dogs. We continued here about an hour and then went on. No accident happened to day though we passed some bad rapids. In the evening we stopped at some Indian camps and remained all night, having come 30 miles. Here we got more fish and dogs. Most of our people having been accustomed to meat, do not relish the fish, but pre- 138 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE fer dog meat; which, when well cooked, tastes very well, Here we met an Indian of another nation, who informed us we could get to the falls in four days: which I presume are not very high as the salmon come above them in abundance. The country on both sides is high dry prairie plains without a stick of timber. There is no wood of any kind to be seen except a few small willows along the shore ; so that it is with difficulty we can get enough to cook with. The hills on the river are not very high, but rocky; the rocks of a dark color. The bed and shores of the river are very stony ; and the stones of a round smooth kind. Saturdry 12. We had a fine morning and proceeded on early. Two of the Flathead chiefs remained on board with us, and two of their men went with the stranger in a small canoe, and acted as pilots or guides. We saw some ducks and a few geese, but did not kill any of them. There is no four footed game of any kind near this part of the river, that we could discover; and we saw no birds of any kind, -but a few hawks, eagles and crows. At noon we halted, cooked and eat some fish, and then proceeded on. The country and river this day is much the same in appearance as that we passed yesterday. A little before sunset we came to a bad rapid, which we did not wish to pass at night, so we encamped above on the north side, having made 30 miles. Some of the Flathead nation of Indians live all along the river this far down. There are not more than four lodges in a place or village, and these small camps or villages are eight or ten miles apart: at each camp there are five or six small canoes. Their summer lodges are made of willows and flags, and their winter lodges of split pine, almost like rails, which they bring down on rafts to this .part of the river where there is no timber. Sunday 13. This was a cloudy wet morning, and we did not set out till 1 1 o'clock: we then proceeded with two canoes at a time over the rapids, which are about two miles in length ; and in about two hours got all over safe. We then went on again and passed more bad rapids, but got through safe. In the afternoon the weather cleared AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 139 and we had a fine evening. Having gone 23 miles we encamped on the North side. The country continues much the same, all high dry prairie. One handsome creek comes in on the south side. Monday 14. We embarked early in a fine clear cool morning; passed some rapids; and at eleven came to one very bad, but we got over without injury. We saw some geese and ducks this forenoon and killed some of the ducks. About 1 o'clock a canoe hit a rock, and part of her sunk, and a number of the things floated out. With the assistance of the other canoes all the men got safe to shore; but the baggage was wet, and some articles were lost. We halted on an island to dry the baggage, having come 14 miles. CHAPTEE XIV. Tuesday 15. This day was fine, clear and pleasant; and we continued here until the afternoon to dry our baggage that had been wet yesterday. The natives have great quantities of fish deposited on this island* * At 3 o'clock P. M. we got all our effects on board and proceeded on. Passed down a beautiful part of the river ; and killed some geese and ducks. This river in general is very handsome, except at the rapids, where it is risking both life and pro- perty to pass; and even these rapids, when the bare view or prospect is considered distinct from the advantages of * Immense numbers of salmon must ascend the western rivers every summer from the Pacific, and constitute a chief article in the food of the natives. Mr. M'Kenzie informs us that in the river, by which he arrived at the ocean, where it empties itself four or five hundred miles northwest of the mouth of the Columbia, the salmon are so abundant, that the natives have a constant and plen- tiful supply of that excellent fish. He also on his return states, under the date of the 6th and 7th of August, that the salmon in the waters of the Columbia were driving up the current in such large shoals, that the water seemed to be covered with the fins of them. 140 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE navigation, may add to its beauty, by interposing variety and scenes of romantic grandeur where there is so much uniformity in the appearance of the country. We went 18 miles this evening and halted at an old Indian camp on the north side, where we had great difficulty in procur- ing wood to cook with, as none at all grows in this part of the country. Wednesday 16. We had a fine morning and embark- ed early; proceeded on about three miles, when one of our canoes run upon some rocks in a rapid, but by unloading another canoe and sending it to her assistance, we got all safe to land, and then continued our voyage. About 1 o'clock we came to another rapid, where all hands carried a load of the baggage by land about a mile, and then took the canoes over the rapids, two at a time, and in that way we got them all down safe and proceeded on. Having gone 21 miles we arrived at the great Columbia river, which comes in from the northwest. * We found here a number of natives, of whose nations we have not yet found out the names. We encamped on the point between the two rivers. The country all round is level, rich and beautiful, but without timber. * The size, course and appearance of this great river, seem to con- firm beyond a doubt the opinion of Mr. M'Kenzie, who supposed that the large river, into which the branch he descended on the west side of the Rocky Mountains, having its source in these mountains near that of the Unjigah or Peace river, discharges its waters into the large river in latitude about 54 north, and longitude 122 west from London, or 47 west from Philadelphia, was the Columbia. The information he obtained from the Indians respecting this river before he left the Unjigah was, "that it was a large river and run towards the mid-day sun; but did not empty itself into the sea." This opinion of these natives at a distance, with respect to its not emptying itself into the sea, must have arisen chiefly from what they had heard of its course, which is east of south and nearly par- allel to the coast of the Pacific, and of the great distance it contin- ued to run in that direction. The accounts he received after arriv- ing at it, there called the Great river, or Tacoutche Tesse, also stated that it ran towards the mid-day sun; and that at its mouth, as the natives said they had been informed, white people were building houses. Mr. M'Kenzie having descended the river some distance, prevailed on a chief to delineate a sketch of the country on a large piece of barkj in which he described the river as running to the AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 141 Thursday 17. We remained here all day for the purpose of taking an observation. We got a number of dogs from the natives. Salmon are very plenty but poor and dying, and therefore not fit for provisions. In the plains are a great many hares and a number of fowls, between the size of a pheasant and turkey, called heath hens or grous. We killed a great many of these fowls which are very good eating. The small river, which we called Flathead and afterwards Clarke's river, is a branch of the Great Columbia, and running a northwest course, falls into it a considerable distance above this place ; we therefore never passed the mouth of that river. The Columbia here is 860 yards wide, and the Ki-moo-ee-nem (called Lewis's river from its junction with the Koos-koos-ke) 475 yards. They are both very low at this place. Our course since we took water has been a few degrees south of west: here the Columbia turns to the east of south. Friday 18. This was also a fine day and we remained here till afte.r 12 o'clock. In the forenoon our Command- ing Officers were employed in getting specimens of the language of the natives, there being three, or part of three, different nations here. They are almost without east of south, receiving many rivers, and every six or eight leagues, encumbered with falls and rapids, some of them very dangerous and six impracticable. He represented the carrying places as of great length, and passing over hills and mountains. He depicted the lands of three other tribes in succession who spoke different languages. Beyond them he knew nothing of the river or country, only that it was still a long way to the sea; and that, as he had heard, there was a lake before they reached the water, which the natives did not drink. /'The more I heard of the river," says Mr. M'Kenzie, "the more I was convinced it could not empty itself into the ocean to the north of what is called the river of the West, so that with its windings the distance must be very great." It is not improbable that the distance by water, from the place Mr. M'Kenzie struck this river, to its mouth (supposing it to be the Columbia, Oregon or Great River of the West,) is upwards of 1000 miles, and its whole course from its source 1500. By the lake mentioned by the Indian chief is no doubt meant the bay at the mouth of the Columbia, and wide part of the river where the tide water ascends and renders the whole unfit to drink. 142 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE clothing, having no covering of any account, except some deer skin robes and a few leggins of the same materials. The women have scarce sufficient to cover their nakedness. Captain Lewis had an observation at noon, which gave 46 15. 13. .9. north latitude. At one we proceeded on down the Great Columbia, which is a very beautiful river. The course is something to the east of south for about 12 miles, and then winds round to almost a west course. We passed some islands and a number of the camps of the natives, which appear to be very shy and distant. We went 21 miles and halted close below an Indian camp; where they have thirty canoes; and a great quantity of dried fish. Saturday 19. The morning was clear and pleasant, with some white frost. A number of the natives came to our camp, and our Commanding Officers presented one of them with a medal and other small articles. At 8 o'clock we proceeded on; passed some islands and bad rapids, but no accident happened. We also passed a great many Indian camps. In the whole country around there are only level plains, except a few hills on some parts of the river. We went 36 miles and halted oppo- site a large Indian camp ; and about 36 canoe loads of them came over to see us; some of whom remained all night; but we could not have much conversation with them as we did not understand their language. They are clothed much in the same manner with those at the forks above. The custom prevails among these Indians of burying all the property of the deceased, with the body. Amongst these savages when any of them die, his baskets, bags, clothing, horses and other property are all interred: even his canoe is split into pieces and set up round his grave. Sunday 20. A fine clear frosty morning. We set out early; passed along a handsome part of the river; saw some pelicans and gulls. And as the shores are lined with dead salmon, there are abundance of crows and ravens. Vast quantities of these fish die at this time of the year. At noon we came to an Indian camp on the point of a large island , where we stopped and got AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 143 some fish and other provisions. We here saw some arti- cles which shewed that white people had been here or not far distant during the summer. They have a hem- pen seine ami some ash paddles which they did not make themselves. At 1 o'clock we proceeded on again, went 42 miles, and encamped without any of the natives being along, which is unusual on this river. We could not get a single stick of wood to cook with; and had only a few small green willows. Monday 21. We continued our voyage* at an early hour, and had a fine morning. At ten, we came to the lodges of some of the natives, and halted with them about two hours. Here we got some bread, made of a small white root, which grows in this part of the country. We saw among them some small robes made of the skins of grey squirrels, some racoon skins, and acorns, which are signs of a timbered country not far distant. Having proceeded on again, we passed several more lodges of Indians; and through two very rocky rapid parts of the river with great difficulty. We went 32 miles and encamped at some Indian lodges, where we procured wood from the natives to cook with. Tuesday 22. The morning was fine and we went on early, and saw a great number of ducks, geese and gulls. At 10 o'clock we came to a large island, where the river has cut its way through the point of a high hill. Opposite to this island a large river comes in on the south side, called by the natives the Sho-sho-ne or Snake-Indian river; and which has large rapids close to its mouth. This, or the Ki-moo-ee-nem, is the same river, whose head waters we saw at the Snake nation. The natives are very numerous on the island and all along the river. Their lodges are of bulrushes and flags, made into a kind of mats, and formed into a hut or lodge. About three miles lower down we came to the first falls or great rapids; and had 1300 yards of a portage over bad ground. All our baggage was got over this evening and we encamped with it; but are not certain whether we can take our canoes by water. Our voyage to day, to th e head of the rapids or falls was 18 miles. 144 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Wednesday 23. A pleasant day. At 9 o'clock in the forenoon all hands, but three left to keep camp, went up and took the canoes over to the south side; as the natives said that was the best side of the river to take them down. Here we had to drag them 450 yards round the first pitch which is 20 feet perpendicular. We then put them into the water and let them down the rest of the way by cords. The whole height of the falls is 37 feet eight inches, in a distance of 1200 yards. In the evening we got all our canoes safe down to the encamp- ment on the north side. The natives are very numerous about these falls, as it is a great fishing place in the spring of the year. The country on both sides of the river here is high, and the bluffs rocky. Captain Lewis had an observation, which made the latitude of this place 45 42. 57. 3. North. We got several dogs from these Indians, which we find strong wholesome diet. The high water mark below the falls is 48 feet, and above only 10 feet four inches from the surface of the water: so that in high water there is nothing but a rapid, and the salmon can pass up without difficulty. The reason of this rise in the water below the falls is, that for three miles down, the river is so confined by rocks (being not more than 70 yards wide) that it cannot discharge the water, as fast as it comes over the falls, until what is deficient in breadth is made up in depth. About the great pitch the appear- ance of the place is terrifying, with vast rocks, and the river below the pitch, foaming through different channels. Thursday 24. We had a fine morning and proceed- ed on early; found the water very rapid below the falls; and having gone four miles below the narrows, came to other narrows still more confined and the rocks higher. At the head of these narrows we halted about 2 o'clock at a great Indian village, and remained there all night. We got fish and dogs from the natives, and some berries, different from any we got before, some call them cran- berries ; whether of the real kind or not I am not certain. In our way down to day we saw a great many sea otters swimming in the river, and killed some, but could not get them as they sunk to the bottom. This village has better AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 145 lodges than any on the river above; one story of which is sunk under ground a^d lined with flag mats: The upper part about 4 feet above ground is covered over with cedar bark, and they are tolerably comfortable houses. Friday 25. We found there were bad rapids in the narrows and therefore carried over part of our baggage by land, about three quarters of a mile; and then took the canoes over, one at a time. In going over one of them filled with water, on account of which we were detained three hours. The rapids continued three or four miles, when the river became more placid. At night we came to a place where there is a considerable quantity of timber on the hills; both oak and pine, and encamped at the mouth of a creek on the south side. The natives about here are, or pretend to be, very uneasy, and say the Indians below will kill us, We purchased from them a quantity of dried pounded fish, which they had prepared in that way for sale. They have six scaf- folds of a great size for the purpose of drying their fish on. Saturday 26. A fine morning. We hauled up all our canoes to dress and repair them, as they had been injured in parsing over ths portage, round the falls. Some hunters went out and killed six deer and some squirrels. In the afternoon about 20 of the natives came to our camp (among whom were the head chiefs of the two villages about the falls,) who had been out hunting when we passed down. The Commanding Officers gave medals to the chiefs, and some other small articles; and they appeared satisfied and some remained with us all night. Sunday 27. This was a fine clear morning, but the wind blew very hard up the river, and we remained here all day. This is the first hunting ground we have had for a long time, and some of our men went out. Part of the natives remained with us; but we cannot find out to what nation they belong. We suppose thorn to ba a band of the Flathead nation, as all their heads are compressed into the same form; though they do not speak exactly the same language, but there is no great difference, and this 10 146 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE may bo a dialect of the same* This singular and deform- ing operation is performed in infancy in the following manner. A piece of board is placed against the back of ihe head extending from the shoulders some distance above it; another shorter piece extends from the eye brows to the top of the first, and they are then bound together with thongs or cords made of skins, so as to press back the forehead, make the head rise at the top, and force it out above the ears. In the evening our hun- ters came in and had killed four deer and some squirrels. The wind blew hard all this day. Monday 28, Just before day light there was a shower of rain; but at sunrisj the morning was fine and clear. At 8 o'clock we embarked, went about four miles, and halted at a small village of the natives and got some dogs from them* Here we stayed about an hour and proceed- ed on again for about a mile, when we were compelled to stop on account of the wind, which blew so hard ahead that we were unable to continue our voyage. In the course of the day there were some showers of rain. In the evening one of the men went out and killed a fine deer. W e were in a good safe harbor and remained thoro all night, accompanied by the natives. Tuesday 29. We embarked early in a cloudy morn- ing; passed high hills on both sides of the river, on which there was pine timbar; and some birch on the banks of the river. At breakfast time we stopt at a small village of tlio natives and purchased some more dogs: then pro- ceeded on; passed a number more Indian camps, and a high mountainous country on both sides. In the evening we discovered a high mountain to the south, not more than five miles off, covered with snow. We have here still water; arid the breadth of the river is from three quarters to a mile. We went 23 miles and encamped at a small village on the north side. \Vednesday 30. The morning was cloudy,; the river and country we found much the same as yesterday. At noon we stopped, to dine and one of the men went out and killed a largs buck. A number of fine springs come down the hills on the South side; and we passed a small AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 147 river on the north. In the evening we came to the head of falls, where there is a large Indian village. On our way down we saw a great many swans, geese and ducks; and a number of sea otter. There are some small bot- toms along the river, with cotton wood on them, and on the banks of the river some white oak, ash and hazlenut. At a distance there are ponds which abound with geese and ducks. It rained hard all day, and we came only 15 miles, Thursday 31. The morning was cloudy. We unload- ed our canoes and took them past the rapids, some part of the way by water, and some over rocks 8 or 10 feet high. It was the most fatiguing business we have been engaged in for a long time, and we got but two over all day, the distance about a mile, and the fall of the water about 25 feet in that distance. Friday, November 1, 1805. We had a cool frosty morning. We carried down our baggage before break- fast as we could not go into the water, without uneasiness on account of the cold. In the forenoon we took down the other two canoes. A number of the natives with four canoes joined us here from above. Their canoes were loaded with pounded salmon, which they were taking down the river to barter for beads and other articles. Saturday 2. There is here a small rapid below the falls, where the men had to carry part of the baggage across a portage of two miles and a half, while the res t took down the canoes. At 12 o'clock we proceeded on again; passed a narrow rapid part of the river of about eight miles, the hills on both sides are very high, and a number of fine springs flowing out of them, some of which fall 200 feet perpendicular. The hills are mostly solid rocks. On our way we passed two Indian lodges. At the end of eight miles, the river opens to the breadth of a mile, with a gentle current. We came 23 miles, and encamped at a high peak resembling a tower on the south side. The country here becomes level, and the river broader. One of the Indian canoes remained with us and the other three went on. On our way and at camp we killed 17 geese and brants. 148 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Sunday 3. The morning was foggy: one of the men went out and killed a fine buck. At nine we proceeded on, but could not see the country we were passing, on account of the fog, which was very thick till noon when it disappeared, and we had a beautiful day. We at that time came to the mouth of a river on the south side, a quarter of a mile broad, but not more than six or eight inches deep, running over a bar of quicksand. At this place we dined on venison and goose; and from which we can see the high point of a mountain covered with snow, in about a southeast direction from us. Our Com- manding Officers are of opinion that it is Mount Hood, discovered by a Lieutenant of Vancoover, who was up this river 75 miles. The river that falls in here has two mouths, through which it drives out a considerable quan- tity of sand into the Columbia. Opposite the lower mouth there is a handsome island. At 2 o'clock we pro- ceeded on, and passed another island. The country on both sides appears level and closely timbered: on the river the timber is cotton wood, maple and some ash; and back from it mostly spruce pine. We made 13 miles and encamped on a large island, in which is a large pond full of swans, geese and ducks. On our way and here we killed some of each kind. At night, Captain -Lewis had a small canoe carried over to the pond in order to hunt by moon light, but the party did not happen to have good luck, having killed only a swan and three ducks. CHAPTER XV. Monday 4. A fine morning. We embarked early; passed two large islands, and a beautiful part of the river. The tide raised the water last night two feet. We went about seven miles and came to a large Indian village, where they informed us that in two days we would come to two ships with white people in them. The Indians AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 149 other articles which they got from these ships. We got some dogs and roots from the natives. The roots are of a superior quality to any I had before seen: they are called whapto; resemble apotatoe when cooked, and are about as big as a hen egg. Game is more plenty here than up the river, and one of the men killed a deer this morning. At this camp of the natives they have 52 canoes, well calculated for riding waves. We proceeded on, and passed some handsome islands, and down a beau- tiful part of the river. We also passed a number of Indian lodges; and saw a great many swans, geese, ducks, cranes, and gulls. We went 28 miles and encamped on the north side. In the evening we saw Mount Rainy on the same side. It is a handsome point of a mountain with little or no timber on it, very high, and a considera- ble distance off this place. Tuesday 5. We embarked very early. Some rain fell last night about 2 o'clock, and the morning was cloudy. We passed several handsome islands, generally near the shore, on the one side or the other of the river. The country on both side is somewhat higher than what we passed yesterday, and closely covered with spruce timber. The bottoms are large, covered with cotton wood, maple, and the like kinds of wood. We passed a great many Indian camps, their lodges made chiefly of poles and cedar bark. At noon we slopped about an hour at an island, and some of the men went out and killed nine brants and a swan. Three of the brants were quite white except the points of their wings, which were black. We proceeded on in the afternoon, during which some rain and a little hail fell; went 31 miles and encamped on the north side. Here the tide rises and falls four feet. Wednesday 6. We set out early in a cloudy morning after a disagreeable night of rain. Saw a number of the natives, going up and down the river in canoes. Also passed some of their lodges. The Indians in this part of the country have but few horses, their intercourse and business being chiefly by water. The high land here have a great deal of new cloth among them, and 150 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE comes more close on the river in this part. Having gone 29 miles we encamped on the south side. Thursday 7. We set out again early in a foggy morning; went about six miles and came to an Indian camp, were we got some fresh fish and dogs. The dress of the squaws here is different from that of those up the river; it consists of a long fringe made of soft bark, which they tie round the waist, and which comes down almost to their knees; and of a small robe, made out of small skins cut into thongs and wove somewhat like carpeting. We remained here about two hours and then proceeded on. At this place the river is about three miles wide, with a number of small islands, and the country broken. In the evening we came to a part of the river, where it is five miles broad. We went 34 miles and encamped on the south side at the mouth of a fine spring. Friday 8. We embarked early. The morning was cloudy, and there was a hard wind from the east. We went about five miles and came to a bay 12 or 14 miles wide. We had to coast round it, as the wind raised the waves so high we could go no other way. We halted and dined at a point on the north side of the bay where a small river comes in. We again proceeded on coasting, till we came to a point of land where the bay becomes narrower; and the water quite salt. The waves here ran so high we were obligsd to lie to, and let the tide leave our canoes on dry ground. This point we called Cape Swell ; and the bay above, Shallow Bay, as there is no great depth of water. In crossing the bay when the tide was out, some of our men got sea sick, the swells were so great. In it there are a great many swans, geese, ducks and other water fowls. The whole of this day was wet and disagreeable ; and the distance we made, in a strait line, was not more than nine miles ; though the distance we coasted was above 20 miles. Saturday 9. The morning was windy, rainy and dis- agreeable, and we were obliged to remain at Cape Swell all day and unload our canoes to prevent them from sinking; notwithstanding some of them did sink when 152 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE the tide came in at noon. We had no fresh water, except what rain we caught by putting out our vessels. We remained here all night, and the rain continued. Sunday 10. We had a rainy morning, but the wind was not so high as it had been yesterday; and we set out from Cape Swell, coasted along for eight miles, passed some high cliffs of sandy rocks, and then came a point; where we found the swells so high, the wind having risen, that we could not proceed: so we had to return back about a mile to get a safe harbor. Here we dined on some pounded salmon, that we had procured from the Indians; and unloaded our canoes. After we had been here about two hours, it became more calm and we loaded the cano3s again, but could not get round the point, the swells were still so high; we therefore put too at a branch of fresh water, under high cliffs of rocks and unloaded again. Hera we had scarcely room to lie between the rocks and water; but we made shift to do it among some drift wood that had baen beat up by the tide, ' It rained hard all night and was very disagreeable. While on our way down to day ws saw some porpoises, sea otter and a great many sea gulls. The water is become very salt. Monday 11. The morning was very wet and the wind still blowing, so that we could not proceed; we there- fore built Iarg3 fires and mad? our situation as comforta- ble as possible, but; still bad enough, as we have no tents, or covering to defend us, except our blankets and some mats we got from the Indians, which we put on poles to keep off i be rain. It continued raining and blowing all day; and at 4 o'clock in the afternoon the tide was so high that we had to leave our lodges, until it got lower in the evening. Some of the men went about 40 perches up the rivar and caught 15 fine Iarg3 fish. Tuesday 12. A cloudy wet morning, after a terrible night of rain, hail, thunder and lightning. We thought it best to move our camp, and fixed our canoes and load- ed them with stones to keep them down. We went about the eighth of a mile from this place, and fixed ourselves as well as we could, and remained all night. The rain still continued, and the river remained very rough. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 153 Wednesday 13. This was another disagreeable rainy day, and we remained at camp being unable to get away. At 9 o'clock in the forenoon it became a little more calm than usual; and three men took a canoe, which we got from the Indians of a kind excellent for riding swells, and set out to go to the point on the sea shore, to ascer- tain whether there were any white people there, or if they were gone. Thursday 14. We expected last night to have been able to proceed on this morning, but the rain continued, and the river still remained rough; and we are therefore obliged to lie by. About noon one of the three men who had gone in the canoe, returned having broke the lock of his gun: but the other two went on by land, as the swells ran so high that they could not possibly get the canoe along. About the same time some Indians in a canoe came up the river, and had stolen a gig from the men; but the one we returned got it from them again when he came up. In the evening Captain Lewis with four men started by land to see if any white people were to be found. The rest remained in camp; and the weather continued wet, and the most disagreeable I had ever seen. Friday 15. This morning the weather appeared to settle and clear off, but the river remained still rough. So we were obliged to continue here until about 1 o'clock, when the weather became more calm, and we loaded and s^t out from our disagreeable camp; went about three miles, when we came to the mouth of the river, where it empties into a handsome bay. Here we halted on a sand beach, formed a comfortable camp, remained in full view of the ocean, at this time more raging than pacific. One of the two men who first went out came to us here, the other had joined Captain Lewis's party. Last night the Indians had stolen their arms and accoutrements, but restored them on the arrival of Captain Lewis and his men in the morning. Saturday 16. This was a clear morning and the wind pretty high. We could see the waves, like small moun- tains, rolling out on the ocean, and pretty bad in the bay. 154 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE CHAPTER XYL We arc? now at the end of our voyage, which has been completely accomplished according to the intention of the expedition, the object of which was to discover a passage by the way of the Missouri and Columbia rivers to the Pacific ocean; notwithstanding the difficulties, pri- vations and dangers, which we had to encounter, endure and surmount. This morning five of the men went out to hunt; and about 3 o'clock all cams in but one. They had killed two deer, nine brants, two geese, one crane, and three ducks. The day being clear we got all our baggage dried, and in good order; and quietly rested until Captain Lewis and his party should return. Sunday 17. We had a fine pleasant clear morning, and six hunters went out. About noon they all came in; but the hunter who remained out last night did not return. He had killed two deer and the other men brought them in with some brants and a deer they had killed. About the same time Captain Lewis, and his party returned. They had been round the bay, and seen where white people had been in the course of 'the summer: but they had all sailed away. Captain Lewis and his party killed a deer and some brants. In the evening the remaining hunter came in and had killed another deer. There are but few Indians settled down about the seashore; their dress is similar to that of some of those above. The women have a kind of fringe petticoats, made of filaments or tassels of the white cedar bark wrought with a string at the upper part, which is tied round the waist. These tassels or fringe are of some use as a covering, while the ladies are standing erect and the weather calm; but in any other position, or when the wind blows, their charms have but a precarious defence. A number of both sexes keep about our camp ; some have robes made of muskrat skins sewed together, and I saw some of loon-skins. Their diet is chiefly fish and roots. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 155 MEMORANDUM. Of the computed distance in miles to the furtherest point of discovery on the Pacific Ocean, from the place where the canoes were deposited near the head of the Missouri, which from its mouth is 3096 From the place of deposit to head spring, To first fork of the Sho-sho-ne river, - 14 To first large fork down the river, 18 To forks of the road at mouth of Tour creek - 14 To Fishing creek, after leaving the river, 23 To Flathead, or Clarke's river at Fish camp, - 41 To the mouth of Travelers-rest creek, - 76 To the foot of the great range of Mountains, east side, ... 12 To ditto ditto ditto west side. - - - 130 To the Flathead village in a plain, To the Koos-koos-ke river, - - IB To the Canoe camp, at the forks, - 6 To the Ki-moo-ee-nem , - 60 To the Great Columbia, by Lewis's river, 140 To the mouth of the Sho-sho-ne, or Snake river, 162 To the Great Falls of Columbia, 6 To the Short Narrows, - - -3 To the Long ditto ... 3 To the mouth of Cataract river, north side, 23 To the Grand Shoot, or Rapids, - 42 To the Last Rapids, or Strawberry island, 6 To the mouth of Quicksand river, south side, - 26 To Shallow Bay, at salt water, - 136 To Blustry Point, on north side, - - 13 To Point Open-Slope, below encampment, To Chin-Ook river at bottom of Haley's Bay, 12 To Cape Disappointment on Western ocean, 13 To Capt. Clarke's tour N. W. along coast, 10 miles 4133 Monday 18. The morning was cloudy. Captain 156 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Clarke and ten men went down to Cape Disappointment, to get a more full view of the ocean; and three went out to hunt. In the course of the day we got some dried salmon and roots from the natives. In the evening our hunters came in with a deer, two brants, and a squirrel, a hawk, and a flounder, which the tide had thrown on a sand bar. The Indians still remained with us and Capt. Lewis got a specimen of their language. Those, who live about the seashores, and on Rogue's harbor creek, a large creek that comes in on the north side of the bay, call themselves the Chin-ook nation. Tuesday 19. We had a cloudy, rainy morning; but some of the hunters went out. About 1 o'clock the natives, who had, been with us some time, went away; and at four another party of the same nation came, and encamped close by us. They consisted of 15 men and one squaw. The dress of the squaw was the same with those of the others. Several of the men have robes made of brant skins: one of them had a hat made of the bark of white cedar and beargrass, very handsomely wrought and water proof. One of our party purchased it for an old razor. Our hunters killed three deer to day. Wednesday 20. We had a fine clear morning; the Indians remained at our camp; and Captain Lewis gave one of them a medal, as he ranked as a chief in the nation. One of the men went out to hunt in the morn- ing, and in a short time killed two deer. This day con- tinued clear and pleasant throughout. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon Captain Clarke and his party returned to camp, and had killed a deer and some brants, They had been about 10 miles north of the cape, and found the country along the seashore level, with spruce-pine timber, and some prairies and ponds of water. They killed a remarkably large buzzard, of a species different from any I had seen. It was nine feet across the wings, and three feet 10 inches from the bill to the tail. They found some pumice stones, which had been thrown out by the waves, of a quality superior to those on the Mis- souri; also a number of shells of different kinds. Thursday 21. A cloudy morning. About 8 o'clock AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 157 all the natives left us. The wind blew so violent to day, and the waves ran so high, that we could not set out on our return, which is our intention to do as soon as the weather and water will permit. The season being so far advanced, we wish to establish our winter quarters as soon as possible. One of the natives here had a robe of sea-otter skins, of the finest fur I ever saw; which the Commanding Officers wanted very much, and offer- ed two blankets for it, which the owner refused, and said he would not take five. He wanted beads of a blue color, of which we had none, but some that were on a belt belonging to our interpreter's squaw; so they gave him the belt for the skins. In the evening more of the natives came to our camp, and the night was very wet and disagreeable. Friday 22. This was a rainy and stormy morning; and we were not yet able to set out: the wind blew very hard from the south, and the river was rougher than it has been since we came here. At noon the tide was higher than common, and one of our canoes got among some logs, and was split. The rain and wind continued all day violent. Saturday 23. The weather was somewhat cloudy but more calm. Some of the men went out to hunt and some to mend the canoe which had been split in the storm yesterday. The natives still stay with us, and have a few roots and berries to subsist on at present; but I cannot conjecture how they live during the winter. They have no moccasons or leggins of any kind ; and scarce any other covering than the small robes, which were mentioned before. In the afternoon 10, of the Clat-sop nation, that live on the south side of the river came over to our camp. These are also naked, except the small robes which hardly covers their shoulders. One of these men had the reddest hair I ever saw, and a fair skin much freckled. In the evening our hunters came in, and had killed three deer, eight brants and 12 ducks. In the evening the weather cleared and we had a fine night. Sunday 24. The morning was fine with some white 158 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE frost. As this was a fine clear day, it was thought pro- per to remain here in order to take some observations, which the bad weather had before rendered impossible. The latitude of this bay was found to be 46 19. 11. 7. north;* and at our camp at the head of the bay the river is three miles and 660 yards wide. The natives stayed with us all day. At night the party were consulted by the Commanding Officers, as to the place most proper for winter quarters; and the most of them were of opin- ion, that it would be best, in the first place, to go over to the south side of the river, and ascertains whether good hunting ground could be found there. Should that be the case, it would be more eligible place than higher up the river, on account of getting salt, as that is a very scarce article with us. Monday 5. The morning was pleasant, though cloudy, with a white frost. We loaded our canoes and proceeded on: went about nine miles and made an attempt to cross the river, but failed; we therefore kept up the north side, round Shallow-bay, and encamped about four miles above it. Tuesday 26. The morning of this day was cloudy and wet; but we set out early, went about a mile and then crossed the river; passing in our way several islands. Immediately after we crossed we came to a small village of the natives, and procured a few roots, called Wapto, from them, and then proceeded on, coasting down the bay on the south side. The whole of the day was wet and unpleasant, and in the evening we encamped for the night. Wednesday 27. We set out early in a wet morning; * Geographers have stated that the Columbia enters the ocean in latitude 46 Q 18. north. The difference is therefore only one < minute 11 seconds and 7 tenths. The longitude by mistake they have made 236 34 west; but which is the east longitude, leaving 123 28 for the west longitude. Mr. M'Kenzie arrived at the ocean in latitude 52 23.43. or 6 Q 4. 31 north of the mouth of the Colum- bia; and in longitude 128 2 or 4 36. west of the mouth of the Columbia. This will shew the general course of the western coast between, those places, to which the river and great chain of the Rocky Mountains are nearly parallel. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 159 coasted round, and turned a sharp cape about a mile; when we found the swells running so high that we had to halt, unload our canoes and haul them out on shore. Here we remained the afternoon and had a very wet night. Thursday 28. We had a wet windy morning; some of the hunters went out, but had no luck. It rained all day; and we had here no fresh water, but what was taken out of the canoes as the rain fell. Friday 29. The weather continues cloudy and wet. Captain Lewis with four men, started to go down and examine whether there is good hunting, and whether we can winter near the salt water. Some of the hunters went out and in the evening returned without killing any game, which appears scarce. The hunting is also dffi- cult, the country being full of thickets and fallen timber. There was some showers of rain and hail during the day, Saturday 30. This was a fair day; and some hunters went around the cape and killed two or three ducks. This is all the supply of fresh provisions, that we have had since we have been at this camp. We live almost altogether on pounded salmon. The whole of the day was fair, pleasant, and warm for the season. Sunday December 1, 1805. The whole of this day was cloudy. Some of the hunters went out but had not the fortune to kill any thing, not even a duck, Monday 2, The day was again cloudy and wet. Some of the hunters went out in the morning; and in the afternoon one of them came in, after killing a fine elk. A party of the men went out to bring in the meat, which is a very seasonable supply, a number complain- ing of the bad effects of the fish diet. Neither the hun- ters nor tho men, who went for the meat returned. In the evening the weather became clear, and we had a fine night. Tuesday 3. The morning was foggy. About 9 o'clock the men came in with the meat of the elk. They had a disagreeable trip, it being dark before they arrived at the place where the elk had been killed: and 160 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE the darkness, fallen timber and underbrush prevented their return; so that they had to encamp out all night. Six of the natives came to our camp, the first who appear- ed since our arrival, and after staying an hour proceeded down the river. The greater part of the day was fair, hut in the evening it clouded over and rained again. At dark our other two hunters came in, and had killed six elk some distance from the river. Wednesday 4. We had a cloudy rainy morning. The river was so rough, we could not set out with the canoes, and six or seven men were sent to dress the elk that had been killed and take care of the meat. The rain continued all day. Thursday 5. Again we had a wet stormy day, so the men were unable to proceed -with the canoes. About 11 o'clock Captain Lewis and three of his party came back to camp; the other two were left to take care of some meat they had killed. They have found a place about 15 miles from this camp, up a small river which puts into a large bay on the south side of the Columbia, that will answer very well for winter quarters, as game is very plenty, which is the main object with us; and we intend to move there as soon as circumstances will admit. There is more wet weather on this coast, than I ever knew in any other place ; during a month we have had but three fair days; and there is no prospect of a change. Friday 6. We had another wet morning, and were not able to set out. At noon it rained very hard, and the tide flowed so high, that in some part of our camp the water was a foot deep: we had therefore to remove to higher ground. In the afternoon it still continued to rain hard. Saturday 7. About 12 last night the rain ceased and we had a fine clear morning. We put our canoes into the water, loaded them, and started for our intended wintering place. We coasted down the south side about a mile, and then met with the six men, who had gone for meat. They had brought four of the skins but no meat, the distance being great and the weather very bad. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 161 The swells being two high here to land, we went two miles further and took the men in. We then proceeded round the bay until we came to the mouth of a river about 100 yards broad, which we went up about two miles to the place fixed upon for winter quarters, unloaded our canoes, and carried our baggage about 200 yards to a spring, where we encamped. Sunday 8. We had a fine morning with some white frost. Captain Clarke with five men set out to go to the ocean, and myself with eleven more to bring in the meat, which the two men left by Captain Lewis were taking care of. We went up the small river in our canoes about two miles, then up a branch of it on the west side two miles, then by land about two miles more, where we found the men and the meat, of which we all carried two large loads to our canoes, and proceeded down to camp. In the evening it began to rain again. The country towards the south is mountainous at some dis- tance off; and there is some snow on the mountains. Near our camp, the country is closely timbered with spruce-pine, the soil rich, but not deep; and there are numerous springs of running water. Monday 9. The morning was cloudy and wet. A serjeant and eight men were sent to bring in the remain- der of the meat we left yesterday; some were employed in making our camp comfortable, and others in clearing a place for huts and a small fort. In the evening some of the natives came to our camp, the first we have seen for some days. It continued cloudy and wet all day. Tuesday 10. We had another wet cloudy morning, and all hands were employed at work notwithstanding the rain. About 2 o'clock Captain Clarke and three of his party returned to camp; the other two remained out to hunt. They found the ocean to be about seven miles from our camp; for four miles the land high and closely timbered: the remainder prairie out with some streams of water. They killed an elk and saw about 50 in one gang. They also saw three lodges of Indians on the seashore. The natives which were at our camp, went 11 162 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE away this morning afte** receiving some presents, In the evening we laid the foundation of our huts. Wednesday 11. This day was also cloudy and wet; but we continued at our hut building. Thursday 12. This morning was cloudy without rain. In the forenoon we finished three rooms of our cabins, all but the covering; which I expect will be a difficult part of the business, as we have not yet found any tim- ber which splits well; two men went out to make some boards, if possible, for our roofs. About 3 o'clock in the afternoon a number of the natives from the seashore came to our camp, and remained all night. Some rain fell in the evening. Friday 13. We had a cloudy, but fine morning; and all hands were engaged at work. The party of Indians who came yesterday went away, and another party came about the middle of the day. Two hunters came in, and had killed 18 elk, not more than four miles distant. The day continued cloudy and some rain fell in the evening. Saturday 14. The two hunters that had killed the elk, went back with two other men to take care of the meat. In the course of the day a good deal of rain fell ; the weather here still continues warm, and there has been no freezing except a little white frost. In the afternoon the savages all went away. We completed the building of our huts, seven in number, all but the covering, which I now find will not be so difficult as I expected; as we have found a kind of timber in plenty, which splits freely and makes the finest puncheons I have ever seen. They can be split 10 feet long and two broad, not more than an inch and a half thick. Sunday 15. . The morning was cloudy. Captain Clarke with 16 of the party started to bring in the meat the four men were taking care of; myself and two others were employed in fixing and finishing the quarters of the Commanding Officers, and two more preparing puncheons for covering the huts. Some light showers fell during the day; and at night three Indians camo to our camp, and brought us two large salmon. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 163 Monday 16. This was a wet morning with high wind. About eight Captain Clarke and 15 men came in loaded with meat; they left a canoe with seven men to bring in the remainder. They had a very bad night, as the weather was stormy and a great deal of rain fell. Not- withstanding this, a sergeant and four men, who had got lost, lay out all night without fire. As soon as they arrived all hands were set to carrying up the meat, and putting it in a house we had prepared for the purpose. The whole of the day was stormy and wet, Tuesday 17. This was another cloudy day, with some light showers of rain and hail. About 1 1 o'clock the seven men came with the canoe and the remainder of the meat. We still continued working at our huts. Wednesday 18. Snow fell last night about an inch deep, and the morning was stormy. In the middle of the day the weather became clear, and we had a fine afternoon. Thursday 19. This was a fine clear cool morning, and we expected to have some fair pleasant weather, but at noon it became cloudy again and began to rain. Friday 20. The morning was cloudy and wet. We collected all the puncheons or slabs we had made, and some which we got from some Indian huts up the bay, but found we had not enough to cover all our huts. About 10 o'clock the weather became clear; but before night it rained as fast as before. From this day to the 25th -we had occasionally rain and high winds, but the weather still continued warm. On the evening of the 24th we got all our huts covered and daubed. Wednesday 25. Was another cloudy wet day. This morning we left our camp and moved into our huts. At daybreak all the men paraded and fired a round of small arms, wishing the Commanding Officers a merry Christ- masr In the course of the day Captain Lewis and Capt. Clarke collected what tobacco remained and divided it among those who used tobacco as a Christmas-gift, to the others they gave handkerchiefs in lieu of it. We had no spirituous liquors to elevate our spirits this Christ- mas ; but of this we had but little need, as we were all in 164 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE very good health. Our living is not very good; meat is plenty, but of an ordinary quality, as the elk are poor in this part of the country. We have no kind of provi- sions but meat, and we are without salt to season that. The 26th, 27th and 28th, were cloudy with rain. We found our huts smoked; there being no chimnies in them except in the officers' rooms. The men were therefore employed, except some hunters who went out, in making chimnies to the huts. In the evening of the 27th we were informed that a large fish, answering to the descrip- tion of a whale, was driven upon shore. In the forenoon of the 28th six men started for the seashore to make salt, as we have none in the fort. Two hunters returned, having killed a deer, and three went out to hunt. Sunday 29. This was a cloudy morning; but a fair day succeeded; and three more hunters went out. In the afternoon several of the Chin-ook nation came to our fort with Wapto root and dried salmon to trade. We- purchased some from them and found the supply season- able as our meat on hand is somewhat spoiled. The men about the fort are engaged in finishing our small fortification. Monday 30. Heavy showers of rain fell last night, but the morning was fair, and we had some sunshine, which happens very seldom; light showers of rain fell during the day. About 2 o'clock the three hunters that first went out came in; and had killed four elk. Seven men went out immediately and brought them imo the fort safe, which was a pleasing^sight, the meat we had on hand being spoiled. This evening we completely finish- ed our fortification. Tuesday 31. Another cloudy morning. Some more of the natives came to trade with Wapto roots and salmon: tho first party had gone off in the morning. AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 165 CHAPTER XVII. Wednesday, January 1, 1806. The year commen- ced with a wet day ; but the weather still continues warm ; and the ticks, flies and other insects are in abundance, which appears to us very extraordinary at this season of the year, in a lititude so far north. Two hunters went out this morning. We gave our Fortification the name of Fort Clatsop. In the evening our two hunters, that went out this morning, returned and had killed two large elk about three miles from the Fort. Thursday 2. This also was a cloudy wet day. Four- teen men went out in the morning and brought the meat of the elk into the Fort. Friday 3. The weather is still cloudy and wet. I set out this morning with one of the men to go to the salt works, to see what progress those engaged in that business had made; and why some of them had not returned, as they had been expected for some time. We proceeded along a dividing ridge, expecting to pass the heads of some creeks^ which intervened. We traveled all day and could see no game ; and the rain still contin- en. In the evening we arrived at a place where two of the men had killed an elk sometime ago. Here we struck up a fire, supped on the marrow bones and remained all night. Saturday 4. The morning was wet; but we proceed- ed on, and passed the head of a creek which we supposed was the last on our rout to the salt works. Immediately after passing the creek, the man with me killed an elk; when we halted and took breakfast of it, and then went on. We got into low ground, passed through a marsh about half a mile in breadth, where the water was knee deep; then got into a beautiful prairie about five miles wide, and which runs along the seashore about 30 miles from Point Adams on the south side of Hayley's Bay, in nearly a southwest course and ends at a high point of a mountain, called Clarke's view on the sea shore. Through this plain or prairie runs another creek, or small 166 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE river which we could not pass without some craft: so we encamped on the creek and supped on the elk's tongue, which we had brought with us. Sunday 5. This was a very wet day. We killed a squirrel and eat it; made a raft to cross the creek; but when it was tried we found it would carry only one per- son at a time;, the man with me was therefore sent over first, who thought he could shove the raft across again; but when we attempted, it only went half way: so that there was one of us on each side and the raft in the mid- dle. I, however notwithstanding the cold, stript and swam to the raft, brought it over and then crossed on it in safety; when we pursued our journey, and in a short time came to some Indian camps on the sea shore. The rain and wind continued so violent that we agreed to stay at these camps all night. Monday 6. We had a fair morning and the weather cleared up, after two months of rain, except four days. We therefore set out from these lodges; passed the mouth of a considerable river; went about two miles up the shore, and found our salt makers at work. Two of their detachment had set out for the fort on the 4th and the man that had come with me and two more went to hunt. Tuesday 7. Another fine day. About noon Captain Clarke with 14 men came to the salt-makers camp, in their way to the place where the large fish had been dri- ven on shore, some distance beyond this camp. The Indians about our fort had procured a considerable quan- tity of the meat, which we found very good. The 8th was a fine day and I remained at camp. The 9th was also fair and pleasant; and about noon Captain Clarke and his party returned here; the distance being about 17 miles. They found the skeleton of the whale which measured 105 feet in length and the head 12. The natives had taken all the meat off its bones, by scalding and other means, for the purpose of trade. The Indians, who live up there are of another nation, and call them- selves the Callemex nation. They are a ferocious nation: one of them was going to kill one of our men, for his blanket; but was prevented by a squaw of the AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 167 Chinook nation, who lives among them, and who raised an alarm. There is a small river comes into ihe sea at that place. Captain Clarke and his party remained at the camp all night, during which some rain tell. Friday 10. The morning was fine and Captain Clarke and his party started, hntt'ilo meat a-ul roh -s. Th > aw a Tuitions people. r,ip:ain Clarke ijave one of their chilis ;i medal, which he ijuv h a hullalo rohe, a:ul said he wa> atVa'ul i)fwhiu x jK^opK\ and did not like to iak- x a:iy tiling h\>:n ih.\n: hut atUM' suasion h-. accepted ih. v medaU and we lef th.Mn.* II i\- a Ki\MU'hiu.Mi join \1 u> to ii'o 10 St. L.uiis, who was in :lu service of the commanding oftie TS ; ami wo dropped iK\\u to the villao-^ oa ih, island, and iMUMiupod for the CHAPTER XXV. Friday 22. This was a cloudy wet morning, after anight of hard rain, and we stayvd at this villa^- to 1 1 2 o'clock. Th.' natives us -d us tVi.'iully and with kindness; ii'avc us corn and h >ans \\iih oilier articL-s; hut none of them wotdd 11,0 down wiih us. At i . way; and having proceeded iwrlvo miles the weather lie clear, and we halted to dry our ha^;i^ -, \\hieh jr>i \ TV W.M la ;i uii.'Jn. At -1 >\-lek \\ i again \\>-ut on, and had a I'm ' passage till ni;^ht, \\!i-'ii we encamped* Saturday 1 2X. \\'c set out early in a lino morning, hut the \\ ind was hi^h; and we went on \>T\ \\ell till near noon, when ihe wind hlew so, hard that \\-- had to halt, and w ire detained ahont four hours. Three hun- i u.'in on aheail hy land, and when we ha.! .\ei-iaken * Wo think lli:il. soino I'lirllicr prunl' : \ to rs| :i |,li ,li ll^ weakneti and luperitition of tin-.- . Had the chief pert*- \ .!>-, I 111 III PfjeOtioB of tin- in.'.hl, We, instead Of llunUin;'. liim silly and HU|M'rsliliius, \vonl,! IIMVP IHM-II im-lim-il t> tin- opinion, that lie was ilif \\ i-<- ;t ln.ii:inon tli- Missouri. 232 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE them they had killed two elk and some deer, and we halted to lake in the meat. Here we had a very heavy shower of rain, which detained us another hour. We encamped at night and found the musketoes very trouble- some. Sunday 24. We had a fine morning, and went on very well till noon, when the wind rose and blew so strong that we were obliged to halt. Having lain by three hours we again proceeded, but did not go far before we were obligsd on account of the wind, again to stop, and encamp for the night. Monday 25. The morning was again pleasant, and we proceeded on early, having sent forward two small canoes with five men to hunt. When we had gone 12 miles, we came to the mouth of the Chien River, where we halted and staid till noon, for the purpose of taking an observation. Some of the men went out to hunt, and while we remained here, killed three small deer. At half past 12 o'clock we proceeded on again, and in a short time overtook our canoes with the hunters, that had gone on ahead, and killed three deer. In the evening we encamped in a handsome bottom, and a hunter killed another deer. Tuesday 26. We set out early, and had a pleasant morning; passed Teeton River, but saw no signs of the Teeton band of the Sioux nation. In the evening we passed Landselle's fort; but found no persons inhabiting it. At dark we encamped after coming about sixty miles. Wednesday 27. We again had a pleasant day and embarked early: proceeded on till we came to the upper end of the Great bend, and there stopped to hunt.* As our hunters saw some game, we in a short time contin- ued our voyage round the bend; at the lower end of * In a former geographical note (pa. 62) we stated that the place where Mr. Thompson, Astronomer to the North West Company, took his observation n the year 1798 to ascertain the latitude and longitude of the northern bend of the Missouri, was near the longitude of the Mandari villages. If what Mr. Thompson called the northern bend is the same with what Mr. Gass calls the great bend (of which there appears little doubt) the longitude AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 233 which we killed an elk. As we were passing an island we saw a gang of buffalo feeding on it; when we halted and killed three of them, and encamped on the island for the night. Thursday 28. We had another pleasant day; embark- ed early, and proceeded on till about 11 o'clock, when we arrived at Pleasant camp, and halted. We left the camp on the 18th September 1806. The commanding officers wishing to procure and take down with them the skeletons of some more deer, and cabre; and knowing that there were but few of those animals lower down the river; continued here the remainder of the day, and sent out six or eight hunters; who returned at night without finding any of the wished for animals, but killed some fat buffalo and common deer. Friday 29. The morning was cloudy and some hun- ters went on ahead very early; while we amussd our- selves till 10 o'clock gathering plums, of which there is great abundance at this place. We then went on, and passed White River on the south side. The Missouri here is very full of sand bars and shoals, and we find difficulty in gBtting along. About 2 o'clock we halted to kill some buffalo, but were unsuccessful, and we pro- ceeded, till evening, and encamped. Saturday 30. We had a pleasant morning, and went on early, three hunters starting ahead. We killed some buffalo and elk in our way, and about 2 o'clock met a band of the Teetons, fifty or sixty in number, and halted on the opposite side of the river as we did not wish to have any intercourse with them. Here we waited for three hunters, who were behind; and during our stay eight or nine of the Indians swam to a sand bar about of the Mandan villages will be between two and three degrees west of the northern, or great bend; or in about longitude 104 degrees west of London, 29 degrees west of Philadelphia, 11* degrees west of the mouth of the Missouri, and nearly 20 degrees east of the mouth of the Columbia. This will still show the great errors of those maps of Louisiana, which place the Mandan villages 20 degrees west of the longitude of the confluence of the M ssouri and Mississippi; and less than 12 degrees east of that of the mouth of the Columbia. 234 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE 60 yards from us, and we found that they were the same rascals, who had given us trouble as we went up. We could not converse with them, but one of our men understanding the language of the Ponis, of which they understood some words; we through him let them know that we wanted nothing to do with them ; and that if they troubled us, we would kill every one of them. They then withdraw, and the whole party left the river and went off to the hills. Our throe hunters returned, and we proceeded on, and in the evening encamped on a sand bar in the river. Sunday 31. This was a cloudy morning, after a disagreeable night of wind and hard rain. We set out early; went on very well all day, and in the evening encamped, where we found the musketoes very trouble- some. Monday September 1, 1806. This was a fine pleas- ant day and we S3t out early, and about 10 o'clock met nine of the Yonktin band of the Sioux nation of Indians on the south side of the river. We halted and gave them some corn, and then proceeded on with an unfavor- able wind. At night we arrived at our encampment of the 31st of August 1804, where we held a treaty with a band of the Sioux nation, and encamped for the night. Tuesday 2. We had a fine morning, but high wind; set out early, and went on till noon, when we halted, and some men went out and killed two fine fat buffalo cows; and brought in the best of the meat. The musketoes are very troublesome. We again started and went on about two miles, when the wind blew so violent that we had to encamp for the night, on a large sand bar, where the musketoes are not so bad, as where there are woods or bushes. Wednesday 3. In a pleasant morning we got early under way, and went very well all day. About 5 o'clock in the afternoon, we met a Mr. Aird, a trader, who was going up the Missouri, and we encamped with him. At sunset a violent gust of wind and rain, with thunder and lightning came on and lasted two hours. Thursday 4. This was a cloudy morning. We AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 235 exchanged some corn with Mr. Aird for tobacco, which our party stood much in need of; and his party having lost a boat load of provisions on their way up, wanted the corn. We then proceeded on till we came to our old camp near the Maha village, where we halted to dry our baggage, which got very wet last night, and remained all night. The natives are all out in the plains. Friday 5. This was a fine morning, and we early embarked, and went on very well, till night, when we encamped on a sand bar, where the musketoes were very troublesome. Saturday 6. We set out early in a fine morning, saw a number of pelicans, and about 8 o'clock a gang ojf elk, when some hunters went out, but returned without killing any. At 1 1 o'clock we met a barge belonging to a Mr. Shotto, of St. Louis, loaded with merchandize, for the purpose of trading with the Sioux nation of Indians. We got some spiritous liquors from this party the first we had tasted since the 4th of July 1805, and remained with them about three hours; sent some hun- ters ahead and proceeded on till 3 o'clock in the after- noon, when we halted and waited for the hunters at the place agreed on to meet them, but they did not come in, and we encamped for the night. Sunday 7. We had a pleasant morning. The hun- ters not having come in, we left a canoe, with directions to wait till 12 o'clock for them; and proceeded on. About 9 o'clock we met with our hunters, but they had not killed any thing; and at 11 halted to hunt and wait for the canoe. In a short time we killed three elk and brought in the meat; and the canoe having come up, we proceeded on, and at sunset encamped. The mus- ketoes are not so troublesome as they were some time ago. Monday 8. We again had a pleasant morning; and proceeded on early; at 10 o'clock we passed council bluffs where we held the first council with the Ottos on the 1st, 2, and 3, of August 1804, and in the evening encamped on a small island, having gone on very well during the day. 236 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE Tuesday 9. We embarked early, and in a short time passed the mouth of the great river Platte ; went on very well all day, and at night encamped on a sand beach opposite the Bald-pated prairie. Wednesday 10. We had a pleasant morning, embark- ed early and went on very well. At 4 o'clock P. M we met a periogue with four men, going to trade with the Loups or Wolf Indians, who live up the river Platte. We remained with these men about an hour, got some whisky from them, and then continued our voyage. In a short time we met another psriogue and seven men, going to trade with the Mahas, who live on the Missouri. We staid some time with these men, then proceeded and at night encamped on a willow island. Thursday 11. We set out early; and had a cloudy morning, and light showers of rain during the forenoon. At two in the afternoon we stopped to hunt, and soon killed two deer and a turkey ; then proceeded on and at sunset encamped on an island. Friday 12. The morning was fine and we again embarked early. In half an hour we met two periogues going up to trade; staid with them a short time and went on. About an hour after we met with a Mr. M'Clelland in a large boat with twelve men going up to trade with the Mahas. Our Commanding Officers were acquainted with Mr. M'Clelland, and we halted and remained with him all day, in order to get some satisfactory information from him, after our long absence from the United States. He, and two Frenchmen who were with him had several- ly instructions from the government to make inquiry after our party; as they were beginning to be uneasy about us. Saturday 13. We had a pleasant morning after some rain that fell yesterday, and again proceeded on early with unfavorable wind. At 10 o'clock we halted to hunt, staid about three hours and killed four deer. We then continued our voyage to sunset and encamped. We had a few musketoes, but they were not so bad as we had found them higher up the river. Sunday 14. In a fine morning we proceeded on AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 237 early and went very well, until 3 o'clock when we met three large batteaux loaded with merchandize, going up to different nations of Indians for the purpose of trade. The people in them were very glad to see us, and gave us some whisky, pork, and biscuit. We remained with them two hours and again went on. We killed five deer on the bank to-day as we floated down: and saw a fine young horse. At sunset we encamped on a small island. Monday 15. The morning was pleasant and we embarked early. In a short time we killed a fine large elk ; at 1 1 o'clock passed the Kenzon river, and encamp- ed at sunset. Tuesday 16. This was another pleasant day. We proceeded on early, and at 9 o'clock met a large periogue with eight men, going to trade with the Ponis nation of Indians on the river Platte about seventy or eighty miles from its mouth. At 11 o'clock we met a batteaux and two canoes going up to the Kanowas nation, who live on a river of the same name. We halted with them awhile, then proceeded on, and at sunset encamped on an island. Wednesday 17. We went on early and had a plea- sant day, but very warm. One of party last night caught a large catfish, supposad to weigh 100 pounds. We got a great many papaws on our way to day: a kind of fruit in great abundance on the Missouri from the river Platte to its mouth; and also down the Mississippi. About 11 o'clock we passed through a bad part of the river, where it was so filled with sawyers that we could hardly find room to pass through safe. About two in the afternoon we met a large keel-boat, commanded by a Captain M'Clanen, loaded with Merchandize and bound to the Spanish country by way of the river Platte. He intended to go by land across the mountain, and get the Spaniards to bring their gold and silver on this side, where he could take his goods and trade with them, had fifteen hands, an interpreter and a black. He intends to discharge his men on this side of the mountain, and to get some of the Ponis, who live on the river Platte to accompany him to the Spanish country. Mr. M'Clan- en gave all our party as much whisky as they could 238 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE drink, and a bag of biscuit. Some of the men were sent on ahead in two small canoes to hunt, and we encamped here for the night. Thursday 18. We gave Mr. M'Clanen a keg of corn; took our leave of him and proceeded on. In a short time, passed the mouth of the river Grande, and soon after overtook the hunters, who had not killed any thing. We continued our voyage all day without waiting to hunt; gathering some papaws on the shores, and in the evening encamped on an island. The 19th, was a fine day, and at day light we contin- ued our voyage ; passed the mouth of Mine river: Saw several turkeys on the shores, but did not delay a moment to hunt; being so anxious to reach St. Louis, where with- out any important occurrence, we arrived *on the 23d and were received with great kindness and marks of friendship by the inhabitants, after an absence of two years, four months and ten days. BOOKS PUBLISHED BY ELLS, CLAFLIN, & CO- THE WORLD TO COME; Or Discourses on Death Judgment, and Eternity; to which is added an Essay on the separate State of souls, between Death and the Res- urrection. By Dr. Isaac Watts. 8 vo. 408 pp. copper- plate portrait of the Dr. Full sp., red back, extra gilt. We take pleasure in recommending the " World to Come," by Dr. Watts, to the attention of the Christian Public. We believe it to be a good book, and worthy of a place in every family. Rev. -S. S* PARR, of the Baptist Church. " J. W. HALL, of the Presbyterian Church * E. ALLEN, of the Episcopal Church. J. C. BARNES, of the Presbyterian Church. J. A. WATTERMAN, of the Methodist E. Church. D. P. ROSENMILLER, of the Lutherri Church. D. WINTERS, of the German Reformed Church. J. EMERIC, of the United Brethren Church. SHETCHES OF WESTERN ADVENTURE. Containing an account of the most interesting incidents connected with the settlement of the West, from 1755 to 1794; with an Appendix, revised and corrected, with Engravings, by John A. McClung. Full sp. 315 pp. l%mo. 62 cts. THE LETTER WRITER'S OWN BOOK. 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We are prepared to make any thing in the shape of Blank Books for County purposes. We can Rule with Blue and Red lines, any Pattern, that may be sent us. Send your orders to Ells, Claflin, & Co. at the City Book Store, with the size of the Book in inches, a pattern of the ruling, and the title or lettering, t you wish on the back. Also say whether you wish an Alphabet in the book, and the number of quires. Our prices are from 38 cents up to $1 50, per quire, depending on the size of the Book, style of Bind- ing, and quality of paper. We are prepared to do as good work, as can be done in the West. Our papers are of the best manufacture. TO OUR CUSTOMERS Iff GENERAL OLD BIBLES. And other second hand Books re- bound, so as to appear almost as fresh as New Books, in a cheap and substantial manner. Send your Old Books, with your name, to the City Book Store, and in a short time, they will be ready to return to you, in quite a new dress. Remember that " a stitch in time saves nine," and that many an old book, could be made almost as good as new, if sent in time to the Binder. PERIODICALS. Neatly Bound, at prices varying from25cts. to $1. Books, Handbills, Show-Bills, Cards, and all other kinds of Printing neatly executed, in Inks of any color, at the City Book Store Printing Office. Prices Reasonable.