DA 590 W3 (38^5 1870 ENVI V^ UC-NRLF :a£ B M m3 IMD A^ DE TO WARWICK With its Castle AND Surroundings. WARWICK lENRY T, COOKE AND SON, PUBLISHERS. HIGH STREET, PRICE SIXPEHCE. Cooke's Guides and Photographs have ^been supplied by command to Her Majesty the Queen; H.R.H. the Prince of Wales; H.R.H. the Duke of York; H.R.H. the Duchess of Teck; the late Shah of Persia; I the King of Saxony, etc., etc. These Photographs are now offered at a great Reduction from the 4 Published Price. For particulars enquire of H. T. Cooke & Son, 9, Hig^h Street, Warwick. Rec'd UCB tNVI NOV 1 G 198a^^ ( ^ATADOGPUE OF AN ENTIRELY JietD Series of Pl)otograpJ)0, By FRANCIS BEDFORD. CABINET FIGURES, 6/< 4y^ LEAMINGTON. The Parade, and Regent Hotel 2007 The Parade, looking up the Street 2008 Fountain in the Jephson Gardens, and the Pump Eoom 2010 The Parish Church, Interior, looking East .. .. 2014 Holly Walk and Avenue . . 2016 View on the River Walk . . 2017 St. Paul's Church, from the North-East .. .. 2018 WARWICK. THE CASTLE: From the Bridge .. .. 2942 By Moonlight 1359 From the Ferry . . . . 2944 The Entrance 29i5 From the Outer Court . . 1362 The River Front . . . . 1977 View ill the Outer Court . . 1979 The Portcullis 1364 The Porter's Lodge . . . 1361 The Inner Court, from the Mount 1980 The Principal Front, from the Mouut 19S1 Gatehouse and Caesar's Tower 19.'^2 Gatehouse aud Guy's Tower 1933 Entrance Porch aud Caesar's Tower 1981 The Great Hall, looking West 1;)35 The Great Hall, looking East 1986 The State Dining Room . . 1987 The Breakfast Room . . . . 1988 The Red Drawing Room . . 1989 The Cedar Drawing Room, looking West The Cedar Drawing Room, 1990 looking East 1991 Queen Anne's Bedroom 1992 The Warwick Vase 1993 The Cedars of Lebanon 621 The Gilt Drawing Room 629 The Boudoir . . . . . . 631 ST. MARY'S CHURCH: From Church Street . . 1996 Interior of Nave 3283 Interior of the Chancel 1997 Crypt and Ducking Stool 3284 The Beauchamp Chapel, Interior, looking East . . 1998 LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL: The West Gate 2938 The Courtvard . . 2939 The Principal Front . . 2002 The Master's House . . 2U03 The East Gate 3940 St. Mary's Church and Town, from Guy's Tower 1994 The Castle Mill on the Avon . . 2004 Emscote Church, from the South-East 2005 Emscote Church, Interior ol Chancel 2006 /^/tu/rc^L^ej^pK DA (o^O GUY'S CLIFFE : From the Mill 2949 From the River . . . . 2950 The Avenue 1969 Interior of the Chrtpel .. 1971 The Mill, from the Eoad ..1972 Gny's Well 635 Guy's Cave 636 KENILWORTH. THE CASTLE : From the Entraiipe . . .. 2955 From the West.. .. 2024 From the Bridge .. 2o25 From the South-East.. .. 2026 From the Echo Field. . .. 2027 From the Road . . .. 2028 Lancaster Buildings and Banquet Hall .. .. .. 2030 Leicester's Buildings, and C aesar's Tower . . .. 2021 Interior of the Banquet Hall 2034 Mervyn'^s Bower . . . . 3287 Entrance to the Great Hall.. 32b6 Stoneleigh Abbey, the Principal Front, from the Garden 2039 COVENTRY. The Church . . Interior, looking East .. 2041 .. 2042 )LY TRINITY CHURCH: From the South-East. . . . 2043 From the Tower of St. Michael's .. .. 2044 Interior, looking East . . 2045 Interior, looking West . . 2046 TheReredos 2047 ST. JOHN'S CHURCH : From the South-East.. Interior, looking East View from the Green . . The Grey Friars Hospital 2048 2049 2040 663 (2^ t STRATFORD-ON-AVON. SHAKESPEARE'S HOUSE: From the East 2907 From the West 2908 The Museum 2910 The House Place, No. 1 . . 2911 The Room in which the Poet was Born 2063 HOLY TRINITY CHURCH : The South Side 2062 Interior of the Chancel . . 2056 Shakespeare's Moniiment . . 2057 Inscriptions on the Tombs of the Shakespeare family 2058 Avenue and North Porch . . 2059 Church and River, from Memorial, No. 1 2886 The Memorial, from the River 2900 The Memorial Library . . 2904 Washington Irving's Parlour, with Arm-Chair, Clock and Poker 2917 The Grammar School' and Street 2064 The Memorial Statue . . . . 3055 The Stratford Picture of Shakes- peare, from the Original Picture .. .... 2G70 ANN HATHAWAY' S COTTAGE: From the Brook, at Shottery. . 2921 Interior 2922 The Bedstead 2923 The Cottage 2u67 Mary Arden's Cottage, at Wilmcote 3295 Charlecote, from the River . . 2924 Hampton Lucy Church, from the Nnrth-East Ha'Tiptou Lucy Church, Interior, looking East Sherbourne Church, from the North-West Sherbourne Church, Interior, looking East 666 667 664 665 J^. rxj (L^UHyX^O L' X^l/j^rU LARGE CABINETS, g'A 6% WAEWICK. THE CASTLE: From the Bridge .. .. 627 The River Front . . . . 629 View in the Outer Court . . 630 The Inner Court, from the Mount 631 The Gatehouse and Guy's Tower 632 The Principal Front, from the Mount .. .. ..633 The Great Hall, looking West 6^4 The Great Hall, looking East 635 The State Dining Eoom .. 636 The Cedar Drawing Room . . 637 From the Avon . . . . . . 291 From the Outer Court . . 1173 Entrance and Road in the Rock 2117 Gateway and Portcullis . . 2120 Gatehouse Tower, Bridge and Moat 2119 ST. MAKY'S CHURCH: Interior 2123 Crypt and Ducking Stool . . 2124 The Beauchamp Chapel, Interior, looking East, No. 2 . . 638 LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL: The West Gate 1164 The Courtyard 1165 The King's School, from the River 1178 The East Gate 2121 The Castle Mill, on the Avon 639 GUY'S CLIFFE : From the Mill 1181 From Backwater . . . • 1182 From the Road 641 The House, from the Avon . . 286 KENILWORTH. THE CASTLE: From the South . . . . 642 From the Bridge . . . . 643 From the Echo Field . • 644 View in the Inner Court . . 645 Leicester's Buildings and Cgesar's Tower .. .. 646 The Banquet Hall . . . . 647 Mervyn's Bower . . .. .. 2127 COVENTRY. ST. MICHAEL'S CHURCH : The Church . . Interior, looking East . . HOLY TRINITY CHURCH ; From the South-East . . Interior, looking Bast . . 649 650 651 652 View from the Green . . . . 648 STRATFORD-ON-AVON . SHAKESPEARE'S HOUSE: From the East 1142 From the West .. .. .. 1143 The Museum . . . . . . 1145 The Room in which the Poet was born . . . . 661 HOLY TRINITY CHURCH: The Avenue 1136 From the Avon . . .. .. 1126 From the Island . . . . 1692 The South Front . . . . 654 Interior of the Chancel . . 657 The Memorial, from the River. . 1139 Washington Irving's Parlour, with Arm-Chair, Clock and Poker 1151 The Church and Lock No. 2 . . 1132 The House Place 1146 The Stratford Portrait of Shakespeare, from the Original Picture . . 664 Mary Arden's Cottage, at Wilmcote 2135 Charlecote, from the River .. 1155 ANN HATHA WAY'S COTTAGE: The Cottage 1152 Interior 1154 SMALL CABINETS, 4^^ LEAMINGTON. The Parade and Eegent Hotel 226 The Parade, looking up the Street 227 View in the Jephson Gardens 228 The Fountain in the Jephson Gardens .. .. ..229 The Parish Church, from the Jephson Gardens . . 230 The Parish Church, the South Front 231 The Parish Church, Interior, looking East .. .. 232 The Holly Walk and Avenue 233 View on the River Walk . . 234 St. Paul's Church, Interior, looking East .. ., 235 Old Milverton Church .. 236 WAKWICK. THE CASTLE: From the Bridge . . . . 1173 From the Park 202 The River Front . . . . 203 View in the Outer Court . . 204 The Inner Court, from the Mount .. .. .. 205 The Gatehouse and Guy's Tower 206 Entrance Porch and Caesar's Tower 207 The Principal Front, from the Mount 208 The Great Hall, looking West 209 The Great Hall, looking East 210 The State Dining Room .. 211 The Red Drawing Room . . 212 Cedar Drawing Room, looking West 213 Cedar Drawing Room, looking East 214 The Green Drawing Room . . 215 The Warwick Vase . . . . 216 ST. MARY'S CHURCH: The Church and Church Street 218 Interior of the Beauchamp Chapel 219 lEICESTER'S HOSPITAL: TheWestgate 1171 The Master's House . . . . 222 The Courtyard 1172 St. Mary's Church and Town from Guy's Tower .. ..217 The Castle Mill, on the Avon „ . 223 Emscote Church, from the South- East 224 Emscote Church, Interior, looking East 225 GUY'S CLIPFE: From the River 11 75 Tne Avenue, from the Road . . 198 Guy's Mill, from the Road . . 199 KENILWORTH. THE CASTLE: From the Bridge .. ..1178 View from Abbey Hill. . . . 237 From the South 238 From the Echo Field .. .. 241 From the Road 242 View in the Inner Court . . 243 Leicester's Buildings and Cesar's Tower . . . . 244 Leicester's Buildings and Lancaster Buildings .. 245 Lancaster Buildings and Banquet Hall . . . . 246 The Banquet Hall . . . . 247 Interior of Banquet Hall . . 248 Caesar's Tower 249 Stoneleigh Abbey, from the River Bank . .,252 Stoneleigh Abbey, the Principal Front, from the Garden 253 COVENTRY. ST. MICHAEL'S CHURCH: The Church 255 Interior, looking East .. .. 256 HOLY TUnriTY CHURCH : From the Sonth-East From Tower of St. Michael' Interior, looking East Interior, looking West The Rereclos . . ST. JOHN'S CHURCH: From the South-East Interior, looking East 257 258 259 260 261 262 263 264 View from the Green STEATFOED-ON-AVON. SHAKESPEARE'S HOUSE: From the West 1153 From the East 274 The Room in which Shakes- peare was born . . . . 276 HOLY TRINITY CHURCH: From the Memorial .. .. 1142 From the North- West . . . . 267 The Avenue and North Porch 269 Interior, looking East . . . . 270 Interior of Chancel .. .. 271 Shakespeare's Monument . . 272 Inscriptions on the Tombs of the Shakespeare family 273 The Grammar School and Street 277 The Guild Chapel and remains of New Place .. .. 278 The Stratford Portrait of Shakespeare, from the Original Picture . . 282 Mary Arden's Cottage, at Wilmcote 3295 AKS HATHAWAY'S COTTAGE : The Cottage 1159 The Cottage, with Portrait of ■ Old Lady 3294 Interior 116.) PHOTOGRAPHIC PICTURES WARWICK CASTLE: From the Bridge . . ... 182 From the Park 183 The River Front . . . . 184 Caesar's Tower, from the Park 185 The Castle Mill, on the Avon 186 12 '^ 9 Guy's Cliffe, from the Mill . . 187 Kenilworth Castle, from the Bridge 188 The Stratford Portrait of Shakes- peare, from the Original Picture 189 Stratford Church, from the River Bank . . . . 190 PANORAMICS, I I 7X OF Warwick Castle from the River, By DAVID LAW. The Finest Etching ever issued, Price £1 lis. 6d. A large stock of Etchings of the Neighbouphood-very cheap COOKE'S GUIDE TO Warwick & Kenilworth Castles, Guv's Cliffe, Stratford-on-Avon, CIi.A-I2,XjECOTE, STOlsTEXiEIG-H -A-BBE^Z-, And every place of interest in tJu Neighbourhood, ELEGANTLY BOUND IN CLOTH, With 10 Steel Engravings, and about 200 Wood Engravings, THREE SHILLINGS & SIXPENCE. CONDENSED EDITION ONE SHILLING. IN SHAKESPEARE'S COUNTRY. A complete Guide, with an account of the Poefs Life, BY SAMUEL NEIL, FULL OF ILLUSTRATIONS, ONE SHILLING. The Home of Shakespeare, BY F. W. FAIRHOLT, AND INTRODUCTION BY J. HALLIWELL-PHILLIPPS, With Illustrations, Sixpence. William Shakespeare As He Lived A most interesting Novel, founded on the Poet's Life. TWO SHILLINGS. A FULL ACCOUNT OF The siege of KENILWORTH And the Military Architecture of Warwick and Kenilworth Castles. 6d. HENRY T. COOKE AND SON, 9, KIGR STREET, WARWICK. HISTORY OF GUY, BAEL OF WARWICK. i^ The unabridged edition from the old copy in Warwick Castle. One Shilling. Sir Walter Scott's Novel of 'KENILWORTH.' Sixpence. THE LAST OF THE BARONS! ^Nevil, the King Maker J, By Lord Lytton. Sixpence. THE WARWIOKSHIRE AVON, By A. T. Quilter-Couch, WITH illustrations BY ALFRED PARSONS, 12s. 6d. "A LOVELY BOOK." A Book of Fifteen Permanent PHOTOGRAPHS OF WARWICK, &o. One Shillino. HENRY T. GOOKE Z? SON, Publishers of Guides and Photographs, 9, ma-H STIZ-EEOT, •W^TLAATIGK. Guide to Warwick With its Castle AND Surroundings WARWICK • HENEY T, COOKE AND SON, PUBLISHERS OF Guides and Photographs, 9, High Street, WAEWICK. We would not detain our readers by adverting to the importance (at best conjectural) sought to be con- ferred on Warwick by antiquity. Some state that a fortress was erected by P. Ostorius Scapula, A.D. 50; others that it was the Praesidum Romanorum, and that a cohort of Dalmatian horse was placed here under the command of Dux Romanorum. Certain it is that, after the destruction of the town by the Danes, it w^as rebuilt, and taken under the especial protection of Ethelfleda, the spirited and accomplished daughter of Alfred the great. This princess, who married Ethelred, Earl of Mercia, laid the foundation of the Castle in the year 915. In 1016, during a successful incursion of the Danes under Canute, the fortifications of the Castle and town were nearly demolished. They, however, quickly arose from their ruins ; and, at the time of the Conquest, Warwick is mentioned in the Domesday Book as a Borough containing '216 houses, and was evidently regarded as a place of some importance, as orders were given to repair and fortify the town and castle of Warwick. This was carried into effect by surrounding the town with a strong wall and ditch, and by enlarging the castle. ii^wniiw EARLS OF WAEWICK. Eous, the Warwickshire antiquary gravely assures us that Warwick hath had its Earls ever since the reign of the renowned King Arthur, w^hen Arthgal or Artigalth first enjoyed the honour, and furnishes us with a list of the succeeding Earls from ancient British chronicles, and in this he is partly followed by Dugdale. We do not consider it necessary to give an account of the various Saxon Earls, but it would be unpardonable to avoid mention of the redoubtable Guy, who, we are told, married Felicia, daughter and heiress of Eohand, a great warrior in the time of Alfred, and in her right became Earl of Warwick. This renowned champion is said to have been the son of Siw^ard, Baron of Wallingford, and according to belief his height exceeded nine feet. Among other instances of his prowess, it is related that he slew a Saracen giant in single combat ; killed a wild boar, an enormous dun cow, and even a green dragon.''' Guy at last retired to Guy's Cliffe, near Warwick, where he lived the life of a hermit, till his death in 929. t * A reprint, in English, of the famous and curious old French book in the library of Warwick Castle, of the adventures of Guy, Earl of Warwick, may be had of the Publishers of this book. Price Is. f For the account of a curious inscription lately discovered in Guy's Cave, and said by experts to have been engraved by Guy himself, see the large edition ot this Guide. EAELS OF WAEWICK. 7 At the time of the Conquest, Turchil (descended from the famous Guy) was Earl ; but although a noble- man of vast power, he gave no assistance to Harold, in opposition to Duke William, for which reason he was allowed quiet possession of his vast estates, and was even employed to enlarge and fortify the castle and town, but he was soon after deprived of his earldom. The town having been thus fortified by order of the Conqueror with ditch and gates and the castle repaired and enlarged, which before consisted of little more than the dungeon, bailt by order of Ethelfleda upon the artificial mound of earth near the river side ; the custody of this strong place was committed by the King to Henry de Newburgh, whom he advanced to the rank and dignity of Earl of Warwick, and bestowed on him the castle, the manor of Warwick, and the royalty of the borough. Henry de Newbukgh, the first Earl of Warwick, who took his name from the castle of Newburgh, in Normandy, attended the Conqueror to England, was one of those who effected the reconciliation between William I. and his son Robert, and was the chief instrument in raising Henry, the King's youngest; son, to the throne, on the death of William Rufus, He began making Wedgnock Park, near Warwick, in imitation of Woodstock Park, made just before by Henry I. and which was the first land emparked in England, He died in 1123, was buried in the abbey of Preux, in Normandy, and succeeded by his son Roger DE Newburgh, who was a witness to King Stephen's laws, and conquered Gowerland in Wales. He founded several religious houses in Warwick, and was accounted 8 EARLS OF WARWICK. a pious man. He married the daughter of William Earl of Warren (who, on the arrival of Henry, Duke of Normandy, afterwards Henry II., turned out King Stephen's soldiers who then manned the garrison, and delivered it up to Henry), and dying, was succeeded by his son, William de Newburgh. This Earl appears to have lived in regal splendour ; he founded two hospitals in Warwick, and built a new church for the Templars there. He died in the Holy Land, 1184, and was succeeded by his brother, Walleran de Newburgh, of whom history mentions little. He died 1205. Henry DE Newburgh was a minor when he succeeded his father and was committed to the care of Thomas Bassett, of Heddington, near Oxford. This Earl strictly adhered to King John in all his wars with the barons, notwith- standing that monarch had seized on the seigniory of Gower, in Wales, during the Earl's minority, and bestowed it on William de Braose. He died 1229, and was succeeded by his son, Thomas de Newburgh, who had not full possession of the earldom until four years after the death of his father. This Earl married the daughter of William Longespe, Earl of Salisbury, son of Henry II., and died without issue. Margery de Newburgh, heiress to the earldom, was married first to John Mareschal, of the family of the Earls of Pembroke, and secondly, by the special appointment of Henry III., to John de Plessetis, who, in right of his wife, took upon him the title of Earl of Warwick, in 1247, and in the following year the King afforded him the title of Comes Warwici, which from that time he constantly used. At the decease of his countess, without children, EARLS OF WARWICK. 9 the inheritance reverted to her aunt Alice, daughter of Walleran, who had been married to Wilham Mauduit, Baron of Hanslape, by whom she left a son and heir, William Mauduit, who on the death of John de Plessetis became Earl of Warwick. In the war between Henry III. and the Barons, he was a firm adherent of the King, and was unfortunately surprised in his castle at War- wick, by John Gifford, governor of Kenilworth, on the part of the Barons, when the walls of the castle were demolished from tower to tower, the Earl and his Countess taken prisoners to Kenilworth, and obliged to pay 1900 marks for his ransom. He died without issue, and left Isabel, his sister, married to William de Beau- champ, sole heiress to his title and estates. William DE Beauchamp, heir of the noble family of the Beau- champs (which at the Conquest was considered one of the principal families in Normandy, and who, coming over with the Conqueror, had for their services, and by intermarriage, obtained immense possessions and privi- leges in England), became heir to the Earldom in right of his wife, but she having entered a nunnery, they never assumed the title; he died in 1269, leaving his eldest son, William de Beauchamp, to succeed him. This Earl enjoyed the title in right of his mother, during his father's lifetime, as appears from his father's will. His services were almost continually employed by the Crown in Scotland and Wales, and he was one of the Governors of Prince Edward, then a minor, during the time Edward I. was employed in the Netherlands. He died in 1298, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Guy de Beau- champ, who the same year, attended the King in Scot- B 10 EARLS OF WARWICK. land, and for his valour in the battle of Falkirk, received all the castles of Geoffrey de Mowbray, lying in that kingdom, except the lordship of Okeford, and all the lands of John de Strivelin. He served Edward I. several years in this country, for which he was rewarded with Bernard Castle, together with the manor of Middleton and its chases, and the manor of Gainsford, with other lands belonging to John de Baliol, then the King's enemy. He was one of the noblemen who seized Piers Gaveston, the haughty favourite of Edward IT., whom he conveyed to Warwick Castle, and in conjunction with three other Earls, to Blacklow Hill, near Warwick, where they beheaded him. Earl Guy long entertained an invincible hatred against Gaveston, for having fixed on him the insulting epithet of ' ' The Black Hound of Arden." He died at Warwick Castle, 1315, as most thought by poison, and was succeeded by Thomas de Beauchamp, who being scarcely two years old at the time of his father's death, was committed to the custody of Hugh le Despencer, but after the ruin of that favourite, in the beginning of the next reign, the custody was obtained by Eoger Lord Mortimer. At the age of 17, by special favour, the King received his homage, and before he was twenty, was made Governor of Guernsey and the islands adjacent. He was one of the marshals of the King's army in France, and one of the chief commanders who, under the Black Prince, led the van of the English army at Cressy. At Poictiers he fought so gallantly that his hand was severely galled with plying his sword and battle axe ; he afterwards made a progress into the east, warring against the EARLS OP WAEWICK. 11 infidels. He rebuilt the walls of Warwick Castle, founded the choir of St. Mary's, and made the town toll-free. 43 Edward III., hearing that the English army, under the Duke of Lancaster, lay perishing with famine and pestilence in their camp, and yet refused to fight the French, who pressed them close, old as he then was, he hastily collected some choice troops, and sailed for Calais, where his bare appearance dispersed the French, whom he pursued in their retreat. This truly great man was seized with the pestilence in Calais, and died 1370, 'aged 63. His body was brought over and buried in the middle of the choir of St. Mary's, at Warwick. Thomas Beauchamp, second son of the last Earl, succeeded to the earldom in consequence of his brother's death. He was chosen Governor to Eichard II. , and in concert with the Duke of Gloucester (whose life the King sought), constrained the King to call a Parliament, in which laws were enacted for the better government of the kingdom. In two years after, the Earl was deprived of his offices, and dismissed the court, when he retired to Warwick, built the tower now called Guy's Tower (costing £395 5s. 2d.), and finished the body of St. Mary's Church, 1394. Though in retirement he was still an object of jealousy to his enemies : being invited to a feast by the King, he came in an unguarded manner, was seized as a prisoner, and con- demned to lose his head for having been in arms against the King. This sentence was remitted, however, but he was banished for life, and his lands granted to Thomas Holland, Earl of Kent. In the same year he was brought back and confined in the Tower ; but at the 12 EARLS OF WARWICK. revolution he was reinstated in his rights. He died 1401, and was succeeded by his son, Eichard de Beau- champ, who had for his godfather Eichard II,, and was one of the most considerable persons in this kingdom in the 15th century. At the coronation of Henry IV., he was made a Knight of the Bath when only nineteen years of age, and Knight of the Garter at twenty-three. In the next year he marched with the forces to suppress the rebellion of Owen Glendowr, whose standard he took in open battle. At the coronation of Henry V. he was constituted Lord High Steward ; 1415 Captain of Calais and Governor of the Marches of Picardy ; 1417 created Earl of Albermarle. He was appointed by Henry V, to the tutelage of his son, then an infant ; and called from France by Parliament, after the death of Henry V., to take upon him the government of the young King. 14 Henry VI. he was appointed Eegent of France, and Lieutenant-General of the King's forces in that realm and the Duchy of Normandy. He died in the Castle of Eoan, 1439, and his body brought over to England, and laid in a chest of stone before the altar of St. Mary's, at Warwick, until a chapel and tomb (the most costly and beautiful in the kingdom, Henry VII. at Westminster excepted), adjoining St. Mary's, at Warwick, could be finished, wherein he was then laid with great solemnity. Henry de Beauchamp succeeded his father when little more than 14 years of age ; even then he had for some time been married to the daughter of Eichard Nevil, Earl of Salisbury. When not yet 19 years of age he tendered his services to Henry VI. in defence of the Duchy of Aquitain, for which the King created him EARLS OF WARWICK, 13 Premier Earl of England; and, within three days, advanced him to the rank of Duke of Warwick, with precedence next to the Duke of Norfolk. After this the Duke had a grant in reversion of the Islands of Guernsey, Jersey, Sarke, Erme, and Alderney, for the yearly tribute of a rose ; and the King further to express his affection declared him King of the Isle of Wight, and placed the crown on the Duke's head with his own hands. He survived these mighty honours but a short time, dying in 14:4:5, at the age of 22. He had an only child Anne, who died before she attained the age of six years, leaving her aunt Anne, sister to Henry, Duke of Warwick, heiress to the Earldom. EiCHARD Nevil now assumed the title of Earl of Warwick, in right of his wife, Anne. This Earl so well known in English history by the title of "The King- Maker," finding himself of consequence enough to hold the balance between the families of York and Lancaster, rendered England during the reign of his power, a scene of bloodshed and confusion ; and made or unmade kings of this or that house as best suited his passions, pleasures, or interests. His life was passed in wars and broils, destructive to his family and country, and he was slain in the battle of Barnet, 1471, which battle he fought against Edward IV., endeavouring to replace Henry VI. on that throne from which, a few years before, he had hurled him. He left two daughters : Isabel, married to George, Duke of Clarence ; and Anne, married to Edward, Prince of Wales, son to Henry VI., by whom she had no issue, and afterwards to Eichard, 14 EARLS OF WARWICK. Duke of Gloucester (afterwards Eichard III.), who killed the prince, her first husband, in cold blood after the battle of Tewkesbury, and, when king, poisoned her, to secure the throne by marrying his brother's daughter, George Plantagenet, Duke of Clarence, in con- sideration of his marriage with Isabel, was by his brother, Edward IV., created Earl of Warwick and Salisbury. He began to beautify and increase the Castle, and pro- jected many and important improvements, both in the castle and town, but falling under the suspicion of his brother, he was imprisoned in the Tower of London, attainted of high treason before Parliament, and drowned in a butt of Malmsey wine, his brother, the Duke of Gloucester, assisting thereat. He had issue two sons, the eldest, Edward, succeeding to the earldom. In 3 Henry VII. an Act was passed recalling the Countess Anne, widow of Richard Nevil, and restoring her to the inheritance of her family'; but this was a refinement of cruelty, for shortly after obtaining posses- sion, she was forced to transfer to the king, by special deed, the immense possessions of the family, amounting at that time to 114 lordships, and the islands of Jersey, Guernsey, Sarke and Aldemey. After the death of this lady, Edward Plantagenet succeeded to the earldom, but an unhappy fortune pursued him from a child : he was confined by Richard III. in the castle of Sheriff- Hutton until the battle of Bosworth Field, when Henry VII. caused him to be removed to the Tower of London, and confined more closely than ever, although his only EARLS OF WARWICK. 15 crime was that of being the only Plantagenet living. He was at the age of twenty-five, arraigned for high treason, and by a promise of mercy prevailed upon to acknowledge himself guilty of entering into conspiracy with Perkin Warbeck ; this sealed his fate : he was con- victed on his own confession, and beheaded on Tower Hill, 1499, and to prevent the claim of any who might be his heirs an attainder was passed against him. The title now lay dormant for a period of 48 years, when in 1547 it was revived in favour of John Dudley, Viscount Lisle, who was descended from Eichard Beau- champ, Earl of Warwick. Feb. 16, 1 Edward VI., by letters patent, he had the dignity of Earl of Warwick conferred upon him, together with the castle, Wedgnock Park, the manor of Warwick, &c. ; he was made Lord High Chamberlain for life ; elected one of the Knights of the Garter; 4 Edward VI. made General Warden of the North, and 6th year of that King's reign raised to the dignity of Duke of Northumberland. He was attainted in the first Parliament of Queen Mary for high treason, in attempting to place Lady Jane Grey, his daughter-in-law, on the throne, and was beheaded on Tower Hill, 1553. Ambrose Dudley, third son of the last Earl having obtained a reversion of the attainder, was, on Christmas Day, 1557, created Viscount Lisle, and two days after, by a new creation, Earl of Warwick. He was Master of the Ordnance, Lieutenant-General of Normandy, Chief Butler of England, Knight of the Garter, and Privy Counsellor. He married three wives, but dying without issue 1589, the title became again 16 EAELS OF WARWICK. extinct, and the inheritance reverted once more to the crown, but was renewed in 1618 in favour of Eobert Lord Eich. This Earl not being descended from the old family, never held the estates nor did he long enjoy his honours, dying about eight months after his eleva- tion, and being succeeded by his eldest son, Egbert Eich, who was Lord High Admiral of England for the Long Parliament. He was a man of pleasing conversa- tion and fascinating manners, and enjoyed the confidence of Cromwell more than any other man. In the negotia- tion with the king in 1645, one of the conditions proposed by the Parliament was the elevation of this Earl to a Dukedom. He died in 1658, and was succeeded by his son Egbert Eich, who survived his father but one year ; his only son, Eobert, married Francis, youngest daughter of the Protector Cromwell, but died without issue in his father's lifetime. Charles, brother to the above, now succeeded to the title, but his only son dying during the father's lifetime, the earldom was united with that of Holland, by the succession to the title of Egbert Eich, Earl of Holland. He died in 1675, and the title descended in succession to Edward Eich, who died in 1701; Edward Henry Eich, who died in 1721; and Edward Eich, who died 1759, without male issue, and the title became a third time extinct. Fulke Greville, who was born 1554, and received his juvenile education with the great Sir Philip Sidney, his cousin, at the school of Shrewsbury, bought up claims on the manor of Wedgnock, which were granted in plenitas by Queen Elizabeth. In James II. he obtained EARLS OF WARWICK. 17 a grant of Warwick Castle, which was then in a ruinous state (the stronger parts being used as a county gaol), and at an expense of £20,000, restored it ; he also pur- chased and planted the Temple grounds on the left bank of the river, and 18 James I. he was advanced to the peerage as Lord Brooke. A man of letters himself, he sought out and patronized that merit in others. This great and good man was stabbed by his servant in his bedroom, and died of his wounds, September 30, 1628 : he was buried in St. Mary's Church, Warwick. Dying without issue, he was succeeded by his first cousin's son, EoBERT Greville, who married a daughter of Francis, Earl of Bedford. He was one of the first who openly exclaimed against the measures adopted by the Court of Charles I., and taking up arms against that monarch, was appointed Commander-in-Chief of the counties of Warwick and Stafford. The Castle of Warwick being besieged by the Eoyalists, under the Earl of Northamp- ton, Lord Brooke hastened from London with reinforce- ments, and raised the siege, to the joy of Sir E. Pieto, who, with a small garrisoQ, and poor supply of artillery, had held the post for the period of 10 days. After doing great and important service at the battle of Edge-hill, he was killed by a shot in the right eye, on March 1, 1643, while forcing the position held by Lord Chesterfield, at Lichfield, and was succeeded by his son, Francis Greville, who died unmarried in the same year as his father, and was succeeded by his brother Robert Greville. This Lord Brooke was instrumental in effecting the restoration of Charles 11. ; and was one of the six lords sent over to Holland, with the humble c 18 EARLS OF WARWICK. invitation of Parliament, that his Majesty would return and take the government of the kingdom into his hands. He had six sons, all of whom died young, and he, at his death in 1676, was succeeded by his brother, Fulke Greville, who held the title until 1710, when he was succeeded by his son, William Greville . At his death in 1727, Francis Greville, his son succeeded to the title, and in July, 1746, was raised to the dignity of an Earl by the title of Earl Brooke, of Warwick Castle ; in 1753, he was made a Knight of the Thistle ; in November 1759, created Earl of Warwick, and obtained a special grant, April, 2, 1760, for bearing the crest of the ancient earls of that name, namely a bear erect, argent, muzzled gules, supporting a ragged staff of the first. He died 1775, and was succeeded by his son George Greville. To this nobleman the town is indebted for some of its most valuable improvements. He erected the bridge over the Avon, opened the approaches to the town, formed the present rocky road to the Castle, enlarged the park, and surrounded the Castle with its spacious lawns and luxurious shnibs. He died in 1816, and was succeeded by his son, Henry Richard Greville. This nobleman, who was Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotu- lorum of the County of Warwick, and Colonel of the Warwick Militia, married the relict of the fifth Lord Monson, and dying in 1853, was succeeded by the present Earl, George Guy Greville, who was born March 28, 1818, and married, February 18, 1852, the Lady Anne Charteris, second daughter of the Earl of Wemyss, and has issue four sons and one daughter. WARWICK CASTLE The present approach to the Castle commences with a recently-erected embattled gateway, called the Porter's Lodge, passing through which the visitor enliers a fine broad road, deeply cut through the solid rock ; the ample branches of foliage forming a canopy above, while beneath the moss and ivy, creeping in fertile wildness, form a picture at once romantic and pleasing. Proceeding about 100 yards, a sudden turn in the road brings the visitor to the outer court (formerly a vineyard, and where, so far back as the time of Henry IV., the rich clusters of grapes are said to have come to considerable perfection) : where the stupendous line of fortifications, with the " cloud cap't towers," breaks suddenly on the sight in all its bold magnificence, seeming, firmly joined as it is to its rocky foundation, to bid defiance to the all-subduing power of time. On the right is the fine polygon tower, dedicated to Earl Guy, having walls ten feet thick, and a base of thirty feet in diameter, and rising to a height of 128 feet. On the left is the venerable Cassar's Tower, said to be coeval with the Norman Conquest ; and although it has braved the ravages of time, and the 20 WARWICK CASTLE. depredations of man for nearly 800 years, still continues as firm as the rock on which it is founded. It is con- nected with Guy's Tower by a strong embattled wall, in the centre of which is the ponderous arched gateway, flanked by towers, and succeeded by a second gateway, with towers and battlements rising far above the first. These were formerly defended by two portcullises, one of which still remains in use. Before the whole is a now disused moat, with an arch thrown over at the gateway, where formerly was the drawbridge. Passing the double gateway, the visitor enters the inner couf t, where a scene is presented to the view which excites feelings of admiration. The spacious area of the court is clothed by a carpet of rich green sward. On the left stands the grand irregular castellated mansion of the feudal barons of Warwick. Uninjured by time, it still retains that bold, irregular outline so peculiar to the ancient castellated style ; on the left is Caesar's tower : in the front is the mount or keep, clothed from its base to its summit with trees and shrubs. The top of the mount is crowned with towers and battlements, in the centre of which is a gateway closed by an iron grating, the light breaking through which relieves the heaviness of the battlements, and produces a charming effect. On the right appear two unfinished towers, one of which is the Bear Tower, begun by Kichard III. : and at the extreme termination is the lofty and commanding Guy's Tower, the whole range being joined by ramparts and embattled walls of amazing thickness. Open flights of steps and broad walks on the top of the walls form a WAKWICK CASTLE. 21 means of communication throughout the whole of the fortress. The scene is grand, and so perfect the fascina- tion that it would be difficult to say what might be added that would improve, or what might be taken away that would not injure the effect of the whole. INTERIOR. On Advent Sunday, 1871, a fire broke out in the Castle, which, before it was suppressed, consumed the whole eastern portion, including the Great Hall, with its priceless treasures. The pictures, library of books, and some of the antiques in the private apartments were fortunately preserved, but many unfortunately fell a prey to the flames. The building has, however, undergone a most judicious restoration at the hands of Mr. Salvin, the eminent architect ; and many architectural features, which were walled up or covered with plaster, are now exposed to view. The armour, also, has been restored under the judicious treatment of Mr. Syers, of London, and is now arranged around the Great Hall. Here are found a collection of complete suits of armour, a fine suit of horse armour, specimens of two- handed swords ; the armour belonging to Lord Brooke, ^ commander of the Parliamentarian army, who was killed at the siege of Lichfield ; an enormous arquebuse, taken from a French ship of war; and an excellent collection of iron head-pieces of different nations and reigns. 22 WARWICK CASTLE. The relics of that hero of antiquity Guy, Earl of Warwick, have been removed to the Great Hall from the Porter's Lodge, where they were formerly kept. The sword (the custody of which was, in the reign of Henry VIII., committed to William Hoggeson, yeoman of the buttery, with a salary of 2d. per day), shield, helmet, breastplate, walking staff, aud tilting pole, all of enor- mous size, the horse armour, on which is an inscription nearly obliterated, is evidently of later date. A large pot, called "Guy's porridge pot," his flesh fork, and his lady's stirrups. Although the armour may not have a right to the antiquity claimed for it, yet, says Gilpin, " they are no improper appendages to the place, as they give the imagination a kind of tinge, which throws an agreeable romantic colour on all the vestiges of this venerable pile." From the Great Hall, a view is obtained, at a single glance, of the grand suite of state rooms on the one side, and domestic apartments on the other, extending in a straight line 333 feet, terminated at the western ex- tremity by a window. From the Great Hall is also seen with good effect, hanging at the end of the chapel pas- sage, the celebrated painting, by Vandyck, of Charles I. This is a splendid figure, and at the distance nearly resembles life ; it was given by Prince Charles of Lorraine to Lord Waldegrave, and was purchased by the father of the late Earl of Warwick. Sir Joshua Reynolds is said to have offered 500 guineas for it. The prospect from the south windows is one of the most delightful the country can boast ; the soft classic Avon (a branch from which, dividing here, and entering WARWICK CASTLE. 23 the main stream a distance below, forms before the window a fertile little island), falling with a " soothing somid " over a cascade 100 feet below, laves the fomida- tion of the Castle, and continues its meandering way to the right through the extensive and highly cultivated park — sheep and cattle grazing in peaceful security on its banks — the undulating foliage of forest trees of every hue, intermingling with the stately cedar spreading its curiously-feathered branches — and the verdant lawns, where nature and art appear to have expended their treasures — combine to form a landscape of surpassing beauty. The Red Drawing Room contains a magnificent Venetian Mirror, in a quaint and rich frame; and besides other objects of interest, the following paintings : — Van Trump, A Dutch Burgomaster, (commonly called Van Tromp), by Vandyck ; Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, by Rubens (this magnificent picture is considered by Sir Thomas Lawrence the best in the collection) ; The Assumption of the Virgin, by Raphael; Amhrosio, Marquis de Spinola, by Rubens ; Wife of Snyder, by Vandyck ; over the fire- place, a curious clock; on the mantelpiece, two sacrificial vessels called Prafericula ; and an Urn of bronze and antique. On a buhl table the Lion of St. Maik, and some candelabra of chaste design in ormolu. On the right a handsome cabinet of tortoiseshell and ivory, formerly belonging to the Spinola family, and bearing their arms. On the left a cabinet inlaid with pearl, and supporting a valuable image in green basalt, brought from Egypt. Between the windows is a 24 WARWICK CASTLE. beautiful table of Pietra Commessa, which formerly belonged to Marie Antoinette ; opposite to this are buhl cabinets, containing some scarce and beautiful specimens of Limousin enamel, examples of which, as well as ancient bronzes, marbles, Etruscan vases, vessels of crystal and Bohemian glass, &c., are arranged on various tables and cabinets, in this and the other apartments. The Cedar Drawing Eoom is a noble room, 47 feet by 25. The furniture is antique : the mirrors and screens very fine, and the marble chimney-piece (said to be the only specimen of the kind in England) is exceedingly beautiful. A Florentine table opposite the fire-place, inlaid with lava of Vesuvius, supports a marble bust from the Giustiniani Minerva, at Eome, flanked by two Etruscan vases. A table of black and white antique Egyptian marble stands at either end of the room ; the one at the west end supporting an exquisite bust of Proserpine, by Hiram Power, the sculptor of the Greek Slave ; and one in metal of Charles I., supposed to have been the model of one in marble, made by Bernini, for Henrietta Maria. Etruscan vases of great value are placed on old inlaid cabinets in various parts of the room. In the centre of the room is an ancient table of inlaid marble, brought from the Grimani Palace at Venice. On either side of the fire-place are busts of the late Earl of Warwick, by Nollekins, and the late Countess of Warwick, by Bonelli. Over the mantel-piece is a magnificent Venetian mirror. The following paintings adorn the walls : — Henrietta Maria, Wife of Charles I., by Vandyck ; Charles I., by Vandyck, half-length ; Bohert WARWICK CASTLE. 25 Bich, Earl of Warivick, by Old Stone; James Graham, Marquis of Montrose, by Vandyck ; Duke of Newcastle, Vandyck School ; The Princess de Santa Croce, by Vandyck ; A Lady and her little Boy, supposed to be two of the Brignola Family, by Vandyck. Over the east and west doors, portraits of Tioo of the Beauties of Charles II., by Lely. The walls and ceiling of the Gilt (or Geeen) Drawing Eoom are divided into panels, and superbly gilt. On the mantel-piece are a bronze horse, lava vases, &c. The paintings in this room comprise — Portrait of a Warrior, by Moroni : Earl of Strafford, by Vandyck; Algernon Percy, Earl of Northumberland, by Dobson ; Lord William Bussell ; Portrait of a Cavalier General in Armour, by Vandyck ; A Lady, by Sir Peter Lely ; Charles J., by a French painter; Earl of Strafford when young, by Hanneman; Henrietta Maria, by a French painter; Portrait of the Marqtds of Huntley, school of Vandyck ; Bobert Bertie, Earl of Lindsay, by C. Jansen ; A fine portrait, by Adrian Hanneman ; William, Lord Brooke, by Dahl ; Portrait of a Boy, by Vandyck ; Portrait of a French Nobleman, by Vandyck ; Lady Brooke, by Dahl ; Portrait of a Girl, by Dosso Dossi ; Prince Bupert, by Vandyck ; Earl of Cambridge, painter unknown ; over the doors — Three sons of Bobert, Lord Brooke ; near the west door — St. John Baptising our Saviour, painted on the root of amethyst. In this room is also placed the celebrated painting by Eubens, of Ignatius Loyola, founder of the Order of the Jesuits. This picture was originally painted for the Jesuits' D 26 WARWICK CASTLE. College, at Antwerp, and belonged to that college until the period of the French Eevolution : it is esteemed by competent judges to be of superlative value. The left hand is laid upon a volume, supported by a pedestal, on which is inscribed: *'ad mai — orem dei gloriam QVICVNQVE HVIC lESV CHRISI MITI^ NOMEN DEDERINT DEI NOCTEQVE SVCCINTI LVMBOS ET TAM GRANDIS BITI SOLVTIONEM iMPTi ESSE EBER ;" [sic] the right hand is raised as if in the act of prayer ; the eyes lifted to a burst of light in the midst of dark clouds : the counten- ance fine and deeply marked by enthusiasm ; the action dignified and natural : the right foot advanced, and so admirably foreshortened, as to appear as if projecting from the canvas ; the robes magnificent, and disposed with easy grace. This wonderful picture is, without doubt, the gem of the collection. In the centre of the room, on a richly-carved and gilt stand, is the superb table brought from the Grimani Palace, at Venice, by the British Consul, Mr. Money, for the late Earl of Warwick. It was well known as the " Grimani Table," being made expressly for that noble Venetian family, eminent in the history of that State, having supplied the Commonwealth with several Dukes, and the Church with two Cardinals. The family arms are worked in the corners with the precious and valuable stones with which the surface is inlaid. This table is entirely of pietra ■ dura, and was universally considered one of the finest in Italy. In this room is also a cinque-cento statue in white marble, of the Faun Marsyas, and two Italian marriage chests in wood, gilt and painted by some early Italian artist, brought from Venice. On a brass-mounted WARWICK CASTLE. 2< Casket, near the west door, is a curious mask, said to be of Socrates ; and on a buhl table, near the window, a Venus modelled in wax, by John of Bologna. Several specimens of buhl furniture, supporting ebony cases, carved and mounted in silver, a fine mosaic Cabinet, and other articles of vertu, are also scattered about the room. Concealed behind the wainscot there is a secret descending stairs. The bed and furniture in the State Bed Eoom are of red crimson velvet, and formerly belonged to Queen Anne : a present from George III. to the Warwick family. The walls are hung with finely preserved tapestry, made at Brussels in 1604 ; the subject upon them is supposed to be the Gardens at Versailles, as they were at that time. A rich cabinet of inlaid marqueterie, Japan bowls, Etruscan vases, &c., are placed in various parts of the room. The chimney piece is of verd antique and white marble, executed by Westmacott, and sup- ports two black marble vases on its mantle, while above is a full length portrait of Queen A?ine, in a rich brocade dress, wearing the collar and jewel of the Order of the Garter, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Over the west door, portrait of Owe of the Thynne family , by Frederigo Zucchero ; and over the east door, The Duke of Mon- mouth, painter unknown. In the bay of the window stands a leather chest, with the arms of Queen Anne, and opposite the bed is the toilet table as prepared for the use of her present Majesty during her visit to the Earl of Warwick, bearing a collection of rare Venetian glass, and two magnificent crystal flasks. 2b WAKWICK CASTLE. The Boudoir is a lovely little room, forming the western extremity of the suite of rooms. The prospects from the windows are extremely fine, and the walls studded with paintings. Amongst others may be named : — Portrait of Henry VIII., by Hans Holbein; Barbara Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland, by Lely ; A Boar Hunt, by Eubens ; A Duel Piece, by Hugtenburgh ; William Russell, first Duke of Bedford ; and the first Duchess of Bedford; Francis, second Earl of Bedford ; A Pietra, or Dead Christ, by Lodovico Caracci ; St. Stephen, by Lorenzo di Credi ; St. John, a companion to the above ; a curious picture of A Saint, by Andrea del Sarto, and a companion to the same ; portrait of One of the Beauties of the Court of Charles II., by Lely ; Henry IV. of France, by William Patoun ; Henry VIII., when a Boy, by Vandyck; portrait of A Girl, said to be one of Robert, Lord Brooke's children ; a beautiful little picture of St. Sebastian, by Vandyck ; An old Woman eating Pottage, by Gerhard Douw ; Mrs. Digby in the dress of a Lady Abbess; Head of St. Jerome, by Eubens; Card Players, by Teniers ; A Madomia and Child, by Barrochio ; One of the Beauties of the Court of Charles II., by Lely; Landscape, by Salvator Eosa, and Companion to the same ; A sketch of the Four Evangelists, by Eubens, a highly valuable picture ; Mary Boleyn, by Hans Holbein, and Anne Boleyn, by the same artist. On a table is placed a cinque-cento statue of the Faun Marsyas, from the collection of the late Major-General Sir C. J. Greville, K.C.B. In this room are also groups modelled in terra- cotta by Pinelli, of Eome, bronze casts, buhl, ormolu, and marqueterie tables and stands ; and also a beautiful WAEWICK CASTLE. 29 cloch, with twelve curious and highly-finished enamels, one to each hour, representing the twelve principal events in the life of our Saviour ; they are of rare pink enamel, set in silver, and the drawing of the figures is graceful, elegant, and finished by some perfect master's hand. The effect of these apartments is considerably height- ened by the harmony observed in the matchless collec- tion of pure antique furniture throughout the whole suite of state apartments. Superb cabinets, encoigneurs, caskets, and tables of buhl and marqueterie, of the most costly finish — splendid ormolu, crystal, china, and lava cups, flasks, and vases — Etruscan vases — marble and jnetra dura tables — bronzes and busts, displaying the utmost efforts of art — costly Bijoutiers and rare antiques are scattered through the room in rich profusion, yet with exquisite taste — no innovation of the modern is allowed to injure the effect of the ancient — all is costly all is rare, yet all is harmonious. From the Boudoir a door fitting the wainscot opens into The Armoury Passage, which contains a rare collection of curiosities of great value ; one of the finest collections of ancient armour in the kingdom, as a private collection we believe unique ; and a large collec- tion of fossils and petrifactions, bronzes, busts, &c., far too numerous even to attempt to catalogue. Suspended round the walls are culviers, ancient cross-bows, battle- axes, pikes, swords, daggers, muskets, arquebnses, quivers, arrows, tomahawks, helmets, chain armour, &c. ; here is also a portrait of our Saviour, on a gilt ground 30 WARWICK CASTLE. after the impression of an emerald presented by the Great Turk to Innocent VIII., for a token to redeem his brother that was taken prisoner. And a gallery at the further end contains a small suit of plate armour made for the "Noble Impe," Eobert of Dudley, son of Eobert, Earl of Leycester. The Billiaed Eoom has lately been entirely refitted with carved table and furniture en suite. In this passage also hangs a fine collection of paintings. From the Gilt Koom a door opens into a little apart- ment called the Compass Eoom, the principal window of which (of painted glass) was brought from Flanders by the late Earl of Warwick. There are two tables, the one of Sienna marble, the other of Scagliola ; close to which is a truncated marble column of Brocatella Africana. The paintings in this room are An Old Mans Head, by Eubens ; Two pictures of Bears ; Scene from the Merry Wives of Windsor, by Stoddart ; small Coast Scene by W. Vander Velde; A Bacchanalian Group, by Eubens ; A Saint ; St. Peter in Prison and St. Peter released from Prison, by Peter Neef ; A Laughing Boy, by Murillo ; Ecce Agnus Dei, by Tiepolo ; small Dutch portrait of a Woman ; A Storm and Wreck, a very fine picture, by W. Vander Velde (the younger) ; A Sea Piece, Vander Velde ; portrait of Napoleon Bonaparte, by David ; Head of an Old Man, by Eubens ; Landscape, by Salvator Eosa; two small pictures of St. Paul light- ing afire in the Island of Melita, and St. Paul shaking off the Viper, by Eubens ; portrait of a Lady, Dutch school ; Catherine, daughter of the Earl of Bedford ; WARWICK CASTLE. 31 portraits of Maximilian I., and his Sister, by Lucas Cranach. In the Chapel Passage hang Mother of Buhens, by Eubens ; Don Scotius, by Abraham Jansen ; Still Life, by Schaef ; portrait of the late Lady Warwick, by Sir G. Hayter; and on a cabinet a magnificent bust of the Black Brince. Here is also a fine carving in wood, the Battle of the Amazons on the Bridge, after a painting by Eubens ; portraits of Martin Byckaert and Don Ferdinand de Toledo, the Duke of Alva, by Vandyck; Gondomar ; A Nun, by Sir J. Eeynolds ; Vandyck's picture of Charles L, which stands at the end of the passage, has just been restored, when it was discovered that a foot-and-a-half of canvas on the left of the picture was turned in and had never been shewn, on this piece are the quarterings of the Monarch, which are now seen to full advantage. The Chapel is entered by a small door, from the last-named passage, but the principal entrance is from the court-yard, where a flight of steps leads to the vestibule, from which a pair of folding doors opens into chapel. The altar-piece of oak, carved and surmounted by a canopy ; the Gothic windows, filled with rich painted glass, pour through the chapel a stream of "dim religious light," rendering it a scene well calculated to harmonise the mind, and cause the heart to join in those devout prayers and pious exercises of our Church which are here daily offered up to the throne of grace. The Great Dining Eoom, built by Francis, Earl of Warwick, is in architectural keeping with the other parts of this venerable pile. This room was much 32 WARWICK CASTLE. damaged by fire, but is restored to its original state. The interior is painted and gilt in a rich but chaste style ; large marble slabs, on elegant stands, are placed as side tables. In this room are three busts of Parian marble and antique, placed on pedestals of red Egyptian granite and Sienna marble. The busts of Augustus and Scipio Africanus are very fine. The head of Augustus is as perfect as the day on which it was finished ; that of Scipio highly interesting, and the mouth singularly expressive of decision of character. This was found near St. John of Lateran at Eome, and was restored by the eminent Danish Sculptor, Thorwaldsen. In this room are placed Frederick, Prince of Wales, by Eichardson; Augusta, Princess of Wales, and an Infant (George III.), by Phillips ; and Two Limis, by Eubens ; a fine carved sideboard, with gilt figures brought from Bergamo; also four gilt Italian figures from Venice, and a crystal chandelier from Genoa. The Beeakfast Eoom contains Joanna, Queen of Naples, by Leonardo da Vinci ; The Doge's Palace at Venice, by Canaletto ; Duchess of Parma, by Paulo Veronese ; a Battle Piece, by H. Borgognone ; and a fine collection of paintings of the Castle, by Canaletto ; also a magnificent buhl clock ; two Portugese cabinets, and a fine collection of red lustre ware, introduced by the Moors into Spain. In the Lobby adjoining the Breakfast Eoom, and which is panelled with cedar, are : — picture of A School Boy, by Sir J. Eeynolds, and Francis, Earl Brooke, by the same painter. WARWICK CASTLE. 33 The Private Apartments of the Castle are not open for inspection. They have lately been thoroughly remodelled, and in many cases almost entirely rebuilt. They are ample and justly proportioned ; and although not vieing in magnificence with the state apartments, the comfort and convenience that pervades them excites in the mind pleasing thoughts of quiet and retirement. The Breakfast Eoom, Library and Private Eooms at the east end of the castle have been restored, under the superintendence of Mr. Salvin, the eminent architect, of London, and they add much to the beauty of the edifice and the comfort of the noble family by whom they are occupied. Situate about the armoury and state rooms are the private rooms of the Earl and Countess of Warwick. They contain many fine paintings, and a large collection of family portraits. The Eooms have lately been fitted, at a great expense, with old carved panelling, and other ornaments, in the most exquisite taste. The Domestic Offices occupy a range running under the whole suite of state apartments ; nearly the whole of them are cut out of the solid rock, under ground as viewed in connection with the inner court, but raised on the south side some sixty feet above the bed of the river. Here are seen to perfection the stupendous works in architecture under- taken by our forefathers. The whole range is supported by enormous solid pillars from ten to twenty feet span, from which spring the massive groined arches which support the roof. 34 WARWICK CASTLE. Between Caesar's Tower and the Clock Tower a new room has lately been built to contain the Library of Books relating to Warwickshire, which has been col- lected by the present Earl. Here is placed the cele- brated " Kenilworth Buffet," from the Great Exhibition of 1851. This fine work of art was manufactured by Cookes and Sons, of Warwick, from an oak tree which was grown on the Kenilworth estate, near the edge of the lake, and which from its apparent age, was doubtless standing at the time of Queen Elizabeth's visit to the Earl of Leycester. The centre panel portrays the entry of Queen Elibabeth to Kenilworth Castle, and on either side are recorded the date of the Queen's visit, 1575, and the year of the Exhibition, 1851 ; — above are pro- jections, supported by the Bear and Eagged Staff, while the arms of Leycester surmount the v>hole. On the spandrils, supported by water flowers are marine sub- jects, taken from the pageant of 1575, viz : — a Triton on a Mermaid, and Arion on the Dolphin. The panels, on the doors are illustrations of some of the scenes from Sir Walter Scott's novel of Kenilworth; that on the left representing Queen Elizabeth's meeting with Amy Eobsart in the grotto ; that on the right the interview of Elizabeth with Leycester after the exposure of his deceit. The figures at the four bases represent the great men of the time ; Sidney, Ealeigh, Shakespeare, and Drake : the Historian, the Warrior, the Poet, and the Admiral of the Age. This splendid specimen of local manufacture was presented to the present Earl, on his marriage, by the town and county of Warwick. WAEWICK CASTLE. 35 Around the walls are hung a most valuable collection of portraits of eminent persons who have been connected with Warwickshire ; among them the beautiful portrait of Shakesj^eare, supposed to be by Cornelius Jansen ; Sir Philip Sidney ; Bobert Dudley , Earl of Ley cester ; Queen Elizabeth, painted by her goldsmith, Guillim Stretes ; Bobert, Lord Brooke, killed at the siege of Lichfield, by Dobson ; Oliver Cromwell, by Walker ; a portrait of Shakespeare, from Mr. Halliwell Phillipps' collection ; and portrait of the Earl of Essex, by Zucchero. Adjoining this room is a small conservatory. EXTERIOR AND GROUNDS. Cesar's Tower, which is not shown to visitors, has beneath it a dark and dismal dungeon, which is entered from the inner court by a long flight of stone steps ; here, at various periods, prisoners have been confined, and from stanchion holes in the wall it is evident they were restrained far from the small loophole, which alone gave light and ventilation to the place. Many instructive and rude drawings may be traced on various parts of the walls, but they are now nearly obliterated by damp. The heart cannot but feel a pang while it traces the operations of the poor wretches who have thus amused themselves, and whiled away the day, when the sun rose to gladden the earth, but excited no pleasure in their bosoms, and its parting beams left them still in 36 WARWICK CASTLE. their misery. The upper part, or guard rooms, are now fitted as servants' chambers. The scene from the summit borders on the subhme ; the views are extensive in every direction and very fine ; while looking through the machicolations between the tower and the battle- ments, at the distance of nearly 150 feet the river pours its stream along. The Clock and Gate Towees are also fitted up as apartments for the attendants, and many of them are hung with tapestry. Guy's Tower contains five tiers of guard rooms and thirteen rooms ; the second room is now used as a depository for documents, &c., relating to the castle estates ; the three upper ones are open, and afford excellent resting places for visitors during their ascent. The view from the summit, which is reached by 133 steps, is of the most varied description, and amply repays the fatigue. In the distance are seen the spires of Coventry, the castle of Kenil worth, Guy's Cliffe, Blacklow Hill, Grove Park, the Shuckburgh and Shropshire Hills, and the Saxon Tower on the Broad- way Hills ; the fashionable town of Leamington ap- pears almost at your feet, while village churches, lifting their venerable towers through the embosoming foliage, fill up the pleasing picture. In the topmost guard room the visitor will be shown the thickness of the walls, which are here upwards of ten feet ; and in the room below are several curious inscriptions in raised letters ; many others have been obliterated by the mason's chisel, while removing the senseless writing of WARWICK CASTLE. 37 impertinent persons. Descending from Guy's Tower, the visitor passes to what is called, on an old plan of the castle, The Bear Court. It occupied the space between the bases of the two north towers, and was nearly a regular parallelogram in shape. Passing on- ward, through a portcullis in the north wall, over a bridge thrown across the moat, and covered with ivy, a broad gravelled walk (on the right of which are the stables) conducts to the Greenhouse. This spacious building of modern construction, was built for the purpose of receiving the celebrated Antique Vase. It has usually a good collection of plants and shrubs, and from its front a beautiful landscape opens, admir- ably filled with wood and water. The Vase is of white marble, designed and executed in the purest Grecian taste, and is one of the finest specimens of ancient sculpture at present known — compared with the age of which even the castle itself is but a thing of a day. It was found at the bottom of a lake at Hadrian's Villa, near Tivoli, by Sir William Hamilton, then Ambassador at the Court of Naples, by whom it was presented to the father of the late Earl of Warwick, conveyed to England and placed in its present position. Its shape is circular, and it is capable of holding 136 gallons. It has two large handles, formed of interwoven vine branches, from which the tendrils, leaves, and clustering grapes spread round the upper margin. The middle of the body is enfolded by the skin of the panther, with the head and claws beautifully finished ; above are the heads of satyrs, bound with wreaths of ivy, accompanied by the vine- clad spear of Bacchus, and the crooked staff of the 38 WAEWICK CASTLE. Augurs. It rests upon vine leaves that climb high up its sides, and stands on a square marble pedestal, which bears the following inscription : — •hoc pristine aetis EOMAN^Q. MAGNIFICENTI^ MONUMENTUM RUDERIBUS ViLLiE TIBURTINiE HADRIANO AUG. IN DELICIIS HABITS EFFOSSUM RESTITUI CURAVIT EQUES GULIELMUS HAMILTON A GEORGIO III MAG. BRIT. REGE AD SICIL. REGEM FERDINANDUM IV. LEGATUS ; ET IN PATRIAM TRANS- MISSUM PATRIO BONARUM ARTIUM GENIO DICAVIT. AN. AC. N. CIO. DCCLXXIV. Leaving the greenhouse, the visitor continues his walk through a fine plantation of luxuriant trees and shrubs, bounding the extensive lawn for half-a-mile, till reaching the bank of the river, he emerges from the ** leafy covert," and the walk again opens on the lawn. The river front of the castle, the mount and its towers, the mill, the cascade, the ruined arches of the bridge, the greenhouse, the tower of St. Mary's Church, the whole expanse of verdant lawn, bounded by the " soft flowing Avon," appear in rapid succession, forming a panorama seldom equalled, never excelled. Passing a pavilion, the visitor arrives at the foot of the castle, where the stupendous pile, with its rocky basement, appears to derive increasing interest from the development of its vast bulk as it stands towering above the glassy stream. Amid the ivy and lichens that creep up the ragged side of the rock is a brass plate affixed to record the following distressing event : A relative of Lord Bagot's while engaged in rowing on the river near this spot was unfor- tunately drowned, while a friend who accompanied him WARWICK CASTLE. 39 was with difficulty saved. The following is the inscrip- tion : — Juxta hanc ripam e cymba submersus fuit Gaulterus Bagot, Jan. 10, A.D. 1800, ^t suae 22. Oh ! crudelis Avon, Stygia infelicior unda Suaviloquus posthac non tibi prosit Olor ! Merso, namque tuo violenti ingurgite, nato, Haec verba inscripsit flens et amans Genitor. Eeturning to the Hill Tower, the stranger pauses to view the magnificent cedars of Lebanon, (which, it is said, grow to a larger size in this park than in any other part of the kingdom). Passing onwards, a circuitous path leads to the top of the mount, the summit of which is crowned by a grass plat, in the centre of which stood an ancient Scotch fir, blown down during a tempestuous night in the winter of 1843-44. This was the only tree represented in Canaletto's view of the castle ; it stood singly on the mount, outside the wall, and appears a prominent object in his picture. An iron-grated gate leads to what is called the northern tower. On this artificial mount, thrown up by Ethelfleda, near one thousand years ago, stood the ancient keep raised by that spirited Princess to keep in awe the turbulent spirits of her time. TOWN OF WAEWICK. The early as well as the modern history of the town of Warwick is so woven up with the accounts of its Earls that it would be here superfluous to reproduce it. The town is clean and extremely healthy ; the houses are generally well built and spacious. It has meeting houses for the several bodies of Dissenters. For the Quakers and Unitarians in High Street ; for the Inde- pendents in Brook Street ; for the Wesleyan Methodists in Market Street and at Emscote ; for the Eoman Catholics in West Street ; and for the Baptists on the Castle Hill. THE CHURCHES. Before describing the Churches at present remain- ing in Warwick, it may be desirable briefly to notice those which formerly existed in the town, and of which the memories have almost perished. According to Rous, Warwick was, in the time of the later Britons, in the 6th century, a bishop's see. He states that St. Dubritius, coming here, fixed his episcopal residence on a site now included in the Castle walls, where he built a Church and dedicated it to All Saints. Saint Dubritius afterwards removed to Llandaff, where he became bishop of that see, and from thence was conse- crated the first Welsh Archbishop. The existence of a Church here in the time of Edward the Confessor is recognized by a charter granted by King Henry L, and St, Peter's Chapel —The East Gate. CHURCHES OF WARWICK. 41 by this charter was confirmed to it several pecuHar customs and privileges, among others the fire and water ordeal. The Church was, by Eoger de Newburgh, in 1123, incorporated with the church of St. Mary. St, Helen's formerly stood on the site now occupied by the Priory, and was swallowed up by the foundation of that religious house, and from that time is always mentioned conjointly with the church of St. Sepulchre. St. Michael's was situated at the lower end of the Saltis- ford; but in 41 Edwd. III. its revenues and population had dwindled almost to nothing. The walls of the Church are still standing, and the gables show the pitch of the original roof ; the east wdndow, though blocked up, has still its mouldings nearly perfect, and by the marks of the mullions, yet visible, seems to be of the decorated style of the 14th century. This cannot, therefore, be the original building, as Earl Roger founded the Hos- pital of St. Michael " neere the chappell " about the beginning of King Stephen's time. The area of this consecrated building is now used as a blacksmith's shop and dwelling house, in the upper chamber of which a portion of the old roof is preserved. St. John Baptist formerly stood in the Market Place, and its foundation is attributed by Rous to Caradoc, an ancient British Prince. This Church was also transferred by Earl Roger to St. Mary's. St. Peter's was originally situated in the centre of the town, but had no dwelling place, or place of sepulture belonging to it. In the reign of Henry VI. it was pulled down, and the Chapel of St. Peter built in its stead over the east gate of the town. About the year 1800 this chapel and gateway under- 42 CHURCHES OF WARWICK. went a most tasteless renovation and assumed its present form. St. Lawrence was situated at the lower end of the West Street, and was appropriated to the Coll. Church of Our Lady, 22 Richd. II. Its exact site was discovered in the autumn of 1837, when the road was widened at the entrance to the town. It was near the back gates of the Castle, on the spot now occupied by the last house and garden on the south side of the street. Above the west gate of the town was St. James's' Chapel, which was also given by Roger, Earl of War- wick to St. Mary's on making it collegiate. In 6 Eichd. II. the advowson was bestowed on the Guild of St. George by Thomas Beauchamp, by whom the present tower was probably built, as his arms adorn the embat- tled parapet. The groined roof of the first compartment of the gateway is deserving of examination. In the notice of St. Helen's Church, it has already been mentioned that, together with St. Sepulchre's, it occupied the site of the Priory : but not the slightest vestige remains of either of the buildings. Within Wedgnock Park is a spot on which formerly stood a chapel called Cuckoo Church. It is not known at what time it fell to ruin, but in 16 Henry VII. the king bestowed the site on which it stood, and also the church-yard, on the Dean and Canons of the Collegiate Church. St. Mary's Church. — The period of the foundation of St, Mary's Church is uncertain ; but that it was founded prior to the Conquest is evident, for in the con- queror's survey it was certified to have one hide of land in Myton, given to it by Turchil de Warwick, which ST. maky's church. 43 land was then valued at 10s. It was made collegiate, having a Dean, secular Canons, Priests and Choristers, by Hen. de Newberg, first Earl of Warwick of the Nor- man line ; and Eoger his son, in the year 1123, 23 Hen. I., added to their body the Priests from the Church of All Saints, and very liberally endowed the Church. Various other benefactors, at different periods, continued to augment its income ; and from its ample endowments, and the poverty of various other churches then standing in what now constitutes the parish of St. Mary's, the other churches gradually fell into decay, and finally merged into St. Mary's. It was not, how- ever, without a struggle for supremacy that some of these fell : and to such a height were their bickerings carried, as to call forth the direct interference of the Pope (Adrian IV.), to subdue them. At the survey, 26 Henry VIII., previous to the general dissolution, its revenues were certified to be £334 2s. 3d. The books in the library at that period were very few, and chiefly accorded with the confined and bigoted feeling of the period. Its Eeliques were pretty numerous, and such as now would raise a smile in the most simple at the credulity displayed by our ancestors. The Collegiate Church of St. Mary was dissolved 37th Henry VIII. , and the same year granted by letters patent to the Burgesses of Warwick, with an estate for its maintenance and that of the King's School adjoining — then worth £58 14s. 4d., and which is now £2756 15s. 9d. ; a very small portion of this is however applied to the purpose for which it was originally intended. 44 ST, Mary's chukch. The Church, as far as the choir, was destroyed by the great fire, which in 1694, laid nearly the whole of the town in ashes, and caused an estimated loss to the inhabitants of £90,600; towards which £11,000 was gathered by Brief, and £1,000 given by the Queen (Anne). With this the Church and Tower was rebuilt, from a design long supposed to have been furnished by Sir C. When, but which recent enquiries have proved to be by Sik W. Wilson, The Tower alone cost £1,600 and rises from four arches (three of which are open to the street, the other forming the principal entrance to the Church), and crowned with lofty pinnacles. It con- tains a peal of ten bells, a set of chimes and a clock. On the north, west and south sides is the following inscription :— TEMPLUM B : MARI^ COLLEGIATUM, PRIMITUS A ROG I DB Novo-BURGO com: WAR : temp: steph: r: instauratum P05TEA A THO : DE BELLO-CAMPO C : WARR ! EX TOTO REEDIFICATUM AN. MCCCXCIIII CONFLAGRAONE STUP- ENDA, NGN ARIS, NGN FOCIS PARCENTE, DIRUTUM v" SEP: MDCXCIITI NOVUM HOG PIETATE PUBLICA INCflOATUM, ET PROVECTUM, REGIA ABSOLUTUM EST, SUB L^TIS AUN^ AUSPICIIS, a" MEMORABIDI MDCCIIII. The Tower and a portion of the Church has been restored at a cost of nearly £12,000. The Church is deficient, in no ordinary degree, in architectural beauty, although its noble proportions give it a grandeur of appearance ; but for this it is probably indebted to its predecessor, which doubtless was strictly followed. It has a centre aisle, two side aisles, and a transept. ST. Mary's church. 45 The following are the admeasurements of the Church :— To the top of the hattlements of the tower, 130 feet ; top of the pinnacles, 174 feet ; diameter at the foot, 33 feet 4 inches; at the summit, 27 feet. Length of the Church, including the Choir, 180 feet 6 inches ; breadth, 66 feet 4 inches ; cross aisle, 106 feet 6 inches ; height of the roof, 42 feet 6 inches; length of the Choir, 77 feet 3 inches; breadth, 27 feet 4 inches. Over the principal entrance is a fine and powerful organ, built by Swarebrick; improved, and its volume very much increased by Bishop, in 1834 ; by Banfield, in 1836 ; and by the same person, in 1842 ; and entirely rebuilt, improved, and the whole instrument brought forward by Hill and Son, in 1865. The furniture of the Church is of oak, deeply embrowned by age, and sub- stantially made. It has galleries on the north, west, and south aisles, and is filled with ugly pews. Afi&xed to a pillar, on the south side of the entrance, is an incised brass with the figure of an old servant of the Church, that will be immediately recognised by those who have visited it some years ago ; beneath is the following inscription: — In the Churchyard adjoining, lie the mortal remains of James Hadley, for the greater part of his life a faithful servant of this Church. He died on the first day of January, 1849, aged 68. The aisles and transepts are filled with monuments, the greater part of which are of no general interest. Those erected to persons of note will now be described. 46 ST. mart's church. East wall, left of lobby door, is an unpretending monument to the memory of two of Warwick's greatest benefactors to the poor, Thomas Oken and Joan his wife, having two incised brasses and a brass tablet, recovered after the great fire, with the following inscription : — ®f yonr (3^I)arptc gibe tf)anfes for the Soules of ^ftomas ^^- These Photographs have been suppUed by Messrs. H. T. GooKE AND Son, by command to Hek Majesty the Queen; H.E.H. The Prince of Wales; H.E.H. The Duke of York; H.E.H. The Duchess of Teck ; The Shah of Persia ; The King of Saxony, etc., etc. p: RETURN ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN LIBRARY TO-^- 210 Wurster Hall 642-4818 LOAN PERIOD 1 QUARTER 2 ; 3 4 5 t b ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS Return books early if they are not being used DUE AS STAMPED BELOW ■ 5AJ? 2 '( iadZ 1 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY FORM NO. DDl 3, 74m, 3/78 BERKELEY, CA 94720 (g>$