F 766 S74- SOUTHERN PACIFIC CO. WAYSIDE NOTES IANCROFT LIBRARY BANCROFT LIBRARY -O THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA OUTHER SOUTHERN PACIFIC PUBLICATIONS The following books, descriptive of the different sections of country i have been prepared with great care from notes and data gathered by local . with a special eye to fullness and accuracy. They are up-to-date handbooks fusely illustrated from the best photographs, and form a series invaluable t tourist, settler and the investor. They will be sent to any address, postage p? . receipt of five cents each. Twelve cents for three or fifteen cents for tl four named. THE SACRAMENTO VALLEY OF CALIFORNIA. THE SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY OF CALIFORNIA. THE COAST COUNTRY OF CALIFORNIA. CALIFORNIA, SOUTH OF TEHACHAPI. CALIFORNIA FISHING, 5 cents. GOVERNMENT LANDS IN NEVADA, 5 cents. OREGON AND CALIFORNIA THE KLAMATH COUNTRY, 5 cents. THE NEW ARIZONA, 5 cents. THE NEW NEVADA, 5 cents. WAYSIDE NOTES ALONG THE SUNSET ROUTE. THE IMPERIAL VALLEY. NORTH BAY COUNTIES, CALIFORNIA. SIERRA CREST AND CANYON (In Preparation.) The following publications, most of which are illustrated, will be sent fre charge, but one cent for each should be enclosed for postage: BIG TREE FOLDER. LAKE TAHOE RESORTS, folder. CALIFORNIA CLIMATIC MAP, folder. YOSEMITE VALLEY. COOL SEA BREEZES. BIG TREE PRIMER. CAMPER'S PARADISE. ORANGE PRIMER. CALIFORNIA FOR THE HOMEMAKER. PRUNE PRIMER. EAT CALIFORNIA FRUIT. SETTLERS' PRIMER. SUNSET MAGAZINE A beautifully illustrated monthly magazine dealing land and seas beyond the Rockies. 192 to 224 pages every month of the Western stories and descriptive articles. The Magazine is noted for its beau illustrations. Annual subscription $1.50, including two beautiful pictures, in col of Pacific Coast points of interest, ready for framing. 15 cents per copy at all r stands. Send for sample copy. Requests should be addressed to CHAS. S. FEE, Passenger Traffic M SOUTHERN PACIFIC, San Francisco, Cal. Ai2o (2-5-08 2oM E.B.) WAYSIDE NOTES ON THE Sunset Route Issued by the Passenger Department Southern Pacific Company San Francisco, California 1 9 8 S 74 The Forbidden Garden, Santa Barbara Mission into this monkly paradise no daughter of Eve is permitted entrance. iancroft Li bray Wayside Notes on the Sunset Route TOWARDS the rising sun in Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, and Louisiana, we take our way through the very heart of early missionary fields, where paganism has given place to Christianity. The line of travel will be coincident with El Camino Real "the King's Highway" not, to be sure, a counterpart, or suggestion even, of the Roman Appian nor of Via Aurelia that promise to be eternal, but the loved Camino Real of the fathers the undulating, curving, bridgeless way marked chiefly by sandaled feet, and that served to bind each succeeding mission to the other members of the sacred family. The extreme eastern portion of it was parcel of that exploited by Ponce de Leon in 1513 (107 years before the settlement of Plymouth Colony), and Hernan de Soto's quest ended in the country we describe years before the Pilgrim Fathers had achieved their swad- dling clothes. Later came Sieur de La Salle to struggle vainly against the immutable decrees of fate; and still later the Acadians, with their romantic sor- rows to stimulate the inspiration of Longfellow. Within reasonable limits, answers herein should be found to anticipate the questions of the traveler. The Coast Line San Francisco to Los Angeles SAN FRANCISCO-P0/>., 435,ooo; New Orleans, 2487 miles distant. Because these pages address themselves more largely to the transient world, than to residents of San Francisco or of California even, it is not only fitting, but imperative, that something in descriptive way shall be said of that metropolis. It is planted upon the elevated head of a peninsula bordered on its eastern side by the Bay of San Francisco, and on the western by the Pacific Ocean, and that has extension south- ward for fifty miles; not all of it however is under, control of this municipality. Approximately it has an area of 220 square miles, and the exterior bounds, fixed by waters of bay and ocean, cover a line not less than forty miles in length; in medieval times its enclosing walls would have measured fifty miles. Beyond its southern boundary, but not far distant, there is' a constriction of the peninsula the distance across the neck is something more than five miles from bay to ocean. The topography of this city-crowned "head of the penin- sula" lends itself generously to urban development, whether, with safe anchorage and space of wharves, for lines that involve the ocean carrying of the Pacific world; or for manu- factures to anticipate wants certain to arise as the Orient awakes; or for grand commercial houses fitted to be factors for half the entire human family; or deeply rooted banking, and cloud-courting publication offices; halls of justice whose foundations rest on primeval rocks, that the scales may be held in untrembling hands these, all these with associate palatial hotels to refresh a transitory nation, and churches and synagogues to save a world. All interests that lie at the foun- WAYSIDE NOTES dation of municipal greatness are found within easy reach of those who enter the city's gates. And then, in picturesque relief from oppressive dead-level commercialism, residence hills everywhere a score of them, attainable at will by luxurious street cars cable and electric these sanitary hills, covered by dwellings in endless variety, some of them sumptuous, but all of them rilling the measures of ideal homes, with bloom to gladden the eye, and fragrance to bless. Golden Gate Park and the Cliff Rocks seals are an end- less delight; and the "pomp and circumstance" of the military Presidio may be considered a prime attraction, Over all and pervading all, an atmosphere of perennial de- light; and, in official and business and social life, a sturdy facing in the right direction stimulated, it may be, by a settled conviction that no bounty of heaven is too good for San Francisco. As all the world knows, San Francisco suffered greatly by the tremendous cataclysm of April, 1906, and the great fire that followed it; but the world does not yet appreciate that the indomitable spirit has already made a new city, greater and more beautiful than before, while the commercial and financial greatness of San Francisco experienced but a brief temporary check. It is to-day more worthy of a visit than ever before. If, perforce, one must leave it, and is permitted choice of routes, the start will be from the Southern Pacific depot, at Third and Townsend Streets the outgoing train for many miles traversing the city suburbs over the famous double-track Bay Shore Cut-Off, and passengers can mark the various steps of evolution when country rises to urban life. SOUTH SAN FRANCISCO N. O., 2476 miles; Alt., n; Pop., 1000. From South San Francisco, looking towards the Bay, di- verges a railway track to a body of massive buildings in the distance. These are headquarters of Western Meat Company, organized on plans of kindred establishments of Armour and Cudahy in the East. Its operations are gigantic, with refrig- erated and prepared meats sent along every pathway of civil- ization. Important steel works, terra cotta manufacture plant .and glazing works are in the same group. WAYSIDE NOTES SAN BRUNO N. O., 2474 miles; Alt., 20; Pop., 1000. Here joins the new Bay Shore Cut-off with the old route over the hill via Ocean View and Valencia Street. It has been splendidly constructed due south from San Francisco along the shore of the bay. MILLBRAE N. O., 2472 miles; Alt, 8; Pop., 300. Millbrae has notable private estates and residences tribu- tary to it; is beautiful for situation, and abounds in rumi- nating flocks and herds. BURLINGAME A T . 0., 2469 miles; Alt., 20; Pop., 2000. The conception of Burlingame was esthetic in unusual degree. It was planned to preserve and enhance its natural endowments, and create a place with accessories suitable for the nobler sports of refined social life. It is one of San Fran- cisco's most rapidly growing suburbs. SAN MATED N. 0., 2467 miles; Alt., 22; Pop., 4000. San Mateo is the metropolis of the county; is well built and enterprising, not less on the nobler lines than those of commerce. One of its important institutions, making appeal to the best wishes of all, is St. Matthew's School, of which the late A. L. Brewer, D.D., was rector. Near San Mateo, on the more elevated lands, is Crystal Lake, one of the im- pounding reservoirs of the Spring Valley Water Company of San Francisco. BELMONT N. 0., 2463 miles; Alt.] 21; Pop., 500. . , T Belmont, named by its beautiful San Carlos-^. O., 2462 miles, mountain> is one of the bes t es- teemed, near-by resorts of San Francisco. It is acquiring fame as seat of Belmont School for Boys, with Prof. W. T. Reid, head-master. REDWOOD N. O., 2460 miles; Alt., 8; Pop., 2500. Redwood is an important and Fair OaksN. O., 2458 miles. , . , thriving place; in a degree, as seat of its government, a center of attraction for the County of San Mateo. The name is a memory of pristine days, when here and mountainward there was a fine forest of redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens}. A new line of great importance is SOUTHERN PACIFIC The gardens of a San Mateo home in one of San Francisco's favorite suburbs. now being constructed to Redwood from Niles, crossing the lower arm of San Francisco Bay by a drawbridge at Dum- barton Point. This will enable through trains from the East and San Joaquin Valley to run directly into San Francisco without ferry transfer, a very great benefit to the commercial interests of the city and to the entire San Francisco peninsula. MENLO PARK N. O., 2456 miles; Alt., 63; Pop., 1200. From an artistic standpoint, Menlo Park is the highest expression of rural beauty to be found in a reach covering fifty miles of it. It occupies an oak-wooded natural park; on the one side the placid waters of San Francisco Bay, and on the other San Moreno Mountains (a northerly spur of beauty-creating Santa Cruz Range), here, to keep "watch and ward" against any unkindly message from the Pacific. This park is a popular country residence place, wherein WAYSIDE NOTES nature with lavish hands has set up 10,000 umbrageous shrines for Druid's worship; massive oaks, draped not in funereal lichen, but festive mistletoe crowned. PALO ALTO N. O., 2455 miles; Alt., 57; Pop., 5500. Stanford University Palo Alto is, on all accounts, a charming place for resi- dence, with social atmosphere of the best. With city utilities, from electric cars to paved streets, it has become the most important city of the peninsula. More than a passing view must be had of Leland Stanford Junior University, that is, and is to be, a most important fac- tor in the welfare of our race. With exceeding depth and breadth of wisdom were its foundations laid, when it was ordained that without sectarian bias its teachings should point to an over-ruling Providence that guides the affairs of men. Mayfield N. O., 2454 miles. A valued tributary to Stanford University and junction point for the new double-track line to Santa Cruz, via Los Altos and Los Gatos. Mountain View N. O., 2449 miles. A charming suburban town, with many fine homes. Pacific Press Publishing Co. and other industries are here. Murphys N. O., 2446 miles. Umbrageous in native oaks. Lawrence N. O., 2445 miles. Rich in varied agriculture. Santa Clara N. O., 2441 miles. Pop., 4,500. Seat of Santa Clara College and home of refinement and beauty. Sunnyvale A manufacturing town of 2,500 people newly created in a park of beautiful oaks. SAN JOSE AT. 0. } 2438 miles; Alt., 92; Pop., 35,000. San Jose is the home of apricots and prunes, and sends forth an abundance of peaches, plums, pears, apples, table grapes, wine, nuts, small fruits, seeds and vegetables. On the manufacturing side, it is noted for fire brick and terra cotta production; in the manufacture of beet cultivating imple- ments it is the first city of California, and is second in general agricultural outfits. In the city and its environs are large canneries and fruit drying grounds, cured fruit and green fruit packing houses. Green fruit packing is May to November, and dried fruit, July to November. Santa Clara Valley fruit commands leading prices in the world's markets. On social side, it is emphatically a home city; almost every 10 SOUTHERN PACIFIC The Museum at Leland Stanford Junior University typical of the college architecture. dwelling is floral framed, and that, too, not only in choicest native bloom, but freely also in rare efflorescence, that in less favored places would be exhibition hot-house exotics. These displays are not limited to the rich, but are the abun- dant heritage of labor. The social atmosphere of San Jose meets all theoretical requirements, its standards of education and religion are ele- vated, the seed-time of them antedating current history. On higher line (4269 feet above sea-level), crowning summit of Mount Hamilton, is Lick Observatory twenty-eight miles from San Jose. From cars of Southern Pacific Company's railway line, and as well from San Jose, the Observatory glints as a silvered spot on summit of the mountain. Here, through the great telescope, one's vision can make transit of outer ether, covering fields occupied by thousands of solar systems, equal to and superior to our own; and when WAYSIDE NOTES 11 In the springtime, Santa Clara Valley lies white beneath the snow of blossoms. we are overwhelmed by this hint merely, of nature's material immensity, with unfeigned humility of spirit, whisper "What is man, that thou art mindful of him! " The city of San Jose can be reached by two other Southern Pacific lines, one via Oakland and Niles, and the other via Oakland and the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay. Both are served by ferry from foot of Market Street, San Francisco. Via Oakland and Niles MARKET-STREET FERRY Oakland Pier S. F., 5 miles. West Oakland S. F., 6 miles. Oakland S. F., 8 miles. East Oakland S. F., 10 miles. Fruitvale S. F., n miles. San Leandro S. F., 16 miles. San Lorenzo S. F., 18 miles. Hay-ward S. F., 21 miles. Decoto S. F., 27 miles. Near De- coto the Grand Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons has a fine home for aged fraters and their wives. 12 SOUTHERN PACIFIC NILES S 1 . F. t 30 miles; Alt., 83; Pop., 400. Niles is famed for flower culture, (faS ( ^ B S ^S 34 F. m 3 e 7 S mi.es. * tr ?f nurseries and orchards. MilpitasS. F., 42 miles. The railway line bifurcates here, the left-hand (to be noted here- after in connection with lines to Stockton and San Joaquin Valley), and the right-hand one leads to San Jose. Via Oakland and Bay Shore The third line, constructed between the two broad gauge ones, is now standard width, leaving San Francisco also from foot of Market Street, and via ferry to Oakland Pier, thence to Santa Cruz, with San Jose for midway point. Oakland PierS. F., 5 miles. Hall S. F., 27 miles. Oakland S. F., 7 miles. Newark S. F., 31 miles. East Oakland S. F., 9 miles. Mowry S. F., 33 miles. Elmhurst S. F., 14 miles. Alviso S. F., 40 miles. West San Leandro S. F., 16 miles. Agnew S. F., 42 miles. Agnew is West San Lorenzo S. F., 18 miles. seat of one of California's insane Russell S. F., 20 miles. asylums. Mt. Eden S. F., 22 miles. Santa Clara S. F., 45 miles. Alvarado S. F., 26 miles. Alvarado College Park S. F., 47 miles, has an important beet-sugar fac- tory. It should be noted that the distance to San Francisco, by the Palo Alto main line, is 46 miles; via Oakland, it is 47.9. All first-class tickets are good via Santa Cruz en route East, as well as direct via Gilroy. CAMPBELL S. F., 52 miles; Alt., 197; Pop., 500. From Campbell a narrow gauge line runs to New Almaden, as follows: L. G. & S. J. Road S. F., 54 miles. New Almaden S. F., 62 miles. New Union Avenue S. F., 55 miles. Almaden has a quicksilver produc- Le Franc S. F., 58 miles. tion record that may challenge Almaden Crossing S. F., 61 miles. successful competition. At Campbell, and as well along this line last noted, fruit growing has found its home. This temperance village is one of the richest in California. LOS GATOS S. F., 57 miles; Alt., 400; Pop., 3000. This picturesque town is able to offer the dual attractions of mountain and valley, and is the resort of many appreciative WAYSIDE NOTES 13 visitors. It has two good hotels, a cannery and packing house. Alma$. F., 60 miles. The San Jose - Los Gatos Inter- Forest Grove S. F., 62 miles. urban electric railway connects Wright -S. F., 64 miles. both San Jose and Los Gatos with Laurel-*. F., 65 mile* Saratoga and the beautiful long- timed famous Pacific Congress Springs. At San Jose and in the suburbs near this line, via Campbell and Los Gatos, the Guadalupe River will be seen. It drains the mountains about New Almaden, and on its banks Mission Santa Clara was founded. GLEN WOOD S. F., 66 miles; Alt., 885. Good fortune, materializing as a railway company, has led you into the marvelous penetralia of Santa Cruz Mountains; their untold treasures of trees and ferns and flowers are before you. To Glenwood, Laurel and Wright, and to newly dis- covered homes of the wood nymphs, concealed from careless vision, thousands make annual pilgrimage as votaries to a shrine. The new line through the Santa Cruz Mountains will be open in the spring of 1909. MT. HERMON S. F., 72 miles; Alt., 300. A new redwood forest resort, conducted along the best possible lines. The line last noted extends to the ocean-side at Santa Cruz, and, in so doing, traverses a most romantic mountain region, the constant resort of those who can enjoy the large measure be open in the spring of 1909. FELTON 5\ F., 74 miles; Alt., 273. From Felton a branch line to Ben Ben Lomond S. F., 77 miles. Lomond and Boulder Creek, seven riioert b. c., oo miles. ., . , , < , . t , Boulder Creek- -S. F., 81 miles. miles in length, leads through a most romantic section, and is also in close relation to the celebrated hotel and resort, Rowar- dennan, occupying a picturesque spot at the base of Ben Lomand; and to Brookdale, with its famous fish hatchery and beyond to Boulder Creek, gateway to the new State redwood park. WAYSIDE NOTES 15 BIG TREES- S. F., 75 miles; Alt., 300. Rincon-S.F., 77 miles. Jhe Big Trees are five miles from Santa Cruz, and a stop must be made for their examination. They are Sequoia sempervirens (redwood), and belong to a class that has been, and still is, a large factor in the lumber interests of the Pacific Coast. These are giants. Some of them, as they stand, have hollows at their base equal to the temporary housing of a family. Shelter within one of them was sought by Fremont before gold was discovered in California. SANTA CRUZ S. F., via Main Line, 121 miles; via Los Gatos, 80 miles; Pop., 11,000; Alt., 15. This is a delightful spot for recreation and for rest. Deep- water fishing in the bay is always good, and upon occasion the successes in salmon taking are phenomenal. Bathing and suburban drives are sources of endless pleasure. The water- front amusements, including casino, pleasure pier, etc., repre- sent an investment of $700,000. There is a large tent city. Sea Beach Hotel, St. George and other hotels are ready to supply every reasonable want. Mission Santa Cruz This mission, whose site is within the municipality, was founded by Fathers Salazar and Lopez, on the twenty-fifth of September, 1791. The church long since passed into history. San Lorenzo River, with drainage from Santa Cruz moun- tain range, borders the city, and ends at the bay. For convenience of travelers, the Main Coast line from Santa Cruz to junction of main transcontinental line at Pajaro will be here introduced. It closely follows the shore of the bay, and reveals many points of interest. An electric railway runs to Capitola and Twin Lakes from Santa Cruz. Every town between San Francisco and Santa Cruz has a board of trade, and invites requests for literature. Twin Lakes S. F., 119 miles. Capitola S. F., 116 miles. CAPITOLA S. F. t 116 miles; Alt., 57. Aptos, Capitola and Twin Lakes are attractive seaside re- sorts along the beach of Bay of Monterey. They are much 16 SOUTHERN PACIFIC The Big Trees of Santa Cruz are older than Pharaoh would be, had he lived. in request for season use by families, and have a growing list of transient visitors. Elltcott S. F., 107 miles. WATSON VILLE S. F., 102 miles; Alt., 23; Pop., 4500. The thrift and enterprise of Watsonville are proverbial; it is the business center of rich Pajaro Valley, that exports an average of two thousand cars of apples a year. It has twenty packing houses to handle this valuable output. Its daily summer shipment of small fruits to San Francisco averages five cars. Beans, potatoes, onions and other vegetables, and sugar-beets are raised in large quantities, and the cultivation of grain is not neglected. Watsonville is one of the hand- somest cities in California, and claims the most beautiful high school building in the State. Resuming, now, the main line left by us at San Jose, we find WAYSIDE NOTES 17 The Casino at Santa Cruz is delightfully situated 'twixt smiling sea and sunny shore. HILLSDALE N. O., 2433 miles; Alt., 147. From Hillsdale, a branch line, eight miles long, reaches New Almaden. The north-flowing stream, that from time to. t time reveals itself to the train, is Coyote Creek. Morganhill N. O., 2418 miles. A prosperous fruit-growing colony of a thousand people. Alamitos S. F., 59 miles. Greystone S. F., 61 miles. New Almaden S. F., 63 miles. Coyote N. O., 2426 miles. San Martin N. O., 2414 miles. GILROY N. 0., 2408 miles; Alt., 192; Pop., 2000. Gilroy is a city of local importance, and the point where stages are taken for Gilroy Hot Springs, fourteen miles dis- tant. These springs have acquired a fine reputation for cura- tive properties. Between Gilroy and Carnadero are famous seed farms. 18 SOUTHERN PACIFIC CARNADERO N. 0., 2406 miles; Alt., 192. From 'Carnadero a branch line ex- *H l llTi~wS F 9 mile miles tends southeasterly to Tres Pinos, Tres^PinosS. ., 101 mik*. eighteen miles distant. It trav- erses a rich fruit, grain and grass growing country, and reveals Hollister, a rich fruit and dairy center of 2,500 population. SARGENT N. 0., 2402 miles; Alt., 133. By a short branch line ride of seven Mission San Juan Bautista -i < r*^ - j ^ t_i miles from Chittenden, a profitable visit can be made to the city of San Juan, and its historical and romantic mission, San Juan Bautista, founded by Presi- dent Lasuen on the twenty-fourth day of June, 1797. Stages meet all trains. The south-flowing waters are tributary to Pajaro River. AROMAS A fruit and berry growing center. PAJARO N. O., 2389 miles; Alt., 22; Pop., 500. This is a junction point at which we arrive by extension of the trip to Santa Cruz. The valley of which it is sponsor carries an exhaustless fertility, and the town has an im- portance that is not revealed by a careless inspection. In relation to it, you have become acquainted with Pajaro River, a considerable stream, formed by Carnadero Creek from the north, San Benito and San Felipe from the east, and Tres Pinos from the south. When it was first crossed by white men, in 1769, it was named Pajaro (Spanish for bird), in recognition of a stuffed bird exhibited by the Indians. C ASTRO VILLE TV. 0., 2378 miles: Alt., 15; Pop., 600. At Castroville an important arm of Southern Pacific Com- pany's lines radiates southward at an acute angle to reach Hotel del Monte, Monterey, Pacific Grove and Carmel-by- the-Sea. It is the notable experience of a lifetime to make this trip. DEL MONTE S. F., 125 miles; Alt., 25. A gem in an umbrageous and floral setting, that baffles the descriptive powers of poesy or prose. Would you see what WAYSIDE NOTES Not the least of Del Monte's charm lies in the gardens. is possible of achievement when art and nature co-operate? Then visit Hotel del Monte. The hotel and all the improve- ments are in such artistic harmony with each other and with the matchless work of nature in which they are placed, that any approach to discord is unknown. Point Pinos and its Monterey Cypress This matchless, ocean-washed, rock-bound landscape must be visited to be understood. Small wonder it was loved of the Fathers and named Carmel. It has an aroma of Palestine. MONTEREY 5. F., 126 miles; Alt., 10; Pop., 3000. Within a circle of six miles about Monterey are more objects of sacred, historic, romantic and scenic interest than can be found within any other similar area in California; and are happily included in the famous sixteen-mile drive from Hotel del Monte. 20 SOUTHERN PACIFIC Along these shores Cabrillo coasted in 1542, and November 15th named the land-fall "Cabo de Pinos" and the sheltered waters "Bahia de los Pinos." In 1603 Sebastian Vizcaino discovered Carmel River on the fourteenth of December, and on the sixteenth rounded Punta de Pinos and landed at Mon- terey. In 1770, June 3d (not 30th, as frequently quoted), Junipero Serra founded Mission San Carlos Borromeo, on a spot near the beach within the limits of the present muni- cipality, but a short time subsequently transferred it five miles easterly to the bank of Carmel River. The ancient church in city of Monterey is a parish church merely, and not San Carlos Mission, nor ever was. CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA Here, sheltered by lovely Carmel Hills, is also Carmel-by- the-Sea, with its magnificent beach a mile in length, fringed by a dense growth of pines, and an excellent hotel, a favorite resort for artists and other nature lovers. Many charming villas have been built here for permanent as well as summer residences. PACIFIC GROVE 5. F., 129 miles; Alt., 47; Pop., 3000. Pacific Grove, in its popularity as a seaside resort, has grown apace until the measure of a city has been reached. Its physical and moral purity commend it to all lovers of those graces, and each successive season increasing thousands flock to its enjoyment. Leland Stanford Junior University, through the public spirit of Mr. Timothy Hopkins, has its marine laboratory in touch with the prolific waters of Pacific Grove. The work of this Department of the University takes deservedly high rank in educational circles. Glass-bottomed boats here reveal the wonders of the deep. Returning now to Castroville we resume the trans- continental trip. Cooper N. O., 2375 miles. SALINAS N. O., 2371 miles; Alt., 43; Pop., 4000. Salinas, county seat of Monterey, is one of the best business towns on the Coast. It is a freight run terminal of Southern Pacific Company, with usual repair shops. Four miles distant is the Spreckels beet-sugar factory, and WAYSIDE NOTES 21 the surrounding country is noted for sugar-beet production, and for fruit and vegetables generally. This is the chosen habitat of the Salinas Burbank potato. Nine miles east of Salinas may be found wonderful trap- rock statuary, with largest conglomerate rocks in the known world; mysterious caves, underground lakes, great walls and the Castle of Vancouver. These are known as Vancouver's Pinnacles. Chualar N. O., 2360 miles. Consoles N. O., 2354 miles. SOLED AD AT. O., 2345 miles; Alt., 180; Pop., 300. At Soledad, on the ninth day of October, 1791, the Mission of Nuestra Senpra de la Soledad was founded by Fathers Sitjar and Garcia. Antiquarian and sacred interest attaches to its remaining walls. The ruins are hardly more than ruins, but are still visited by the curious and reverent. A pleasant drive of twelve miles leads to the Vancouver's Pinnacles, lately turned into a National Park. Here is a real wonderland of weird peaks and cliffs and caves set in a wood- land wilderness. The well-known and popular Paraiso Hot Springs are reached by "coach and four" out of Soledad within the space of one hour and a half. The waters are the best .the heart of Sierra Santa Lucia can distill, and the surroundings restful to a degree hardly to be believed. The Salinas River has been closely followed since our first sight of it at Spence, near Salinas, and will remain in sight until we reach Santa Margarita. The Fathers named it "Rio de Santa Delfino." KINGS CITY AT. 0., 2325 miles; Alt., 331; Pop., 500. Kings City is a business center of a fertile farming country, that needs but the irrigation enterprise now under way to make it a very productive, section. Westward, and not far distant, are the sightly ruins of Mission San Antonio de Padua, founded July 14, 1771, by Serra, assisted by Fathers Pieras and Sitjar. It was located on the Arroyo Seco, an affluent of the Salinas. Near here is the new colony, Green- field. San Lucas N. O., 2350 miles. San Ardo N. O., 2306 miles Bradley N. O., 2293 miles WAYSIDE NOTES 23 SAN MIGUEL N. O., 2281 miles; Alt., 615; Pop., 300. San Miguel, noted for its salubrity, was selected by the army commission as the best place in all the West for a permanent camp. The people are prosperous, and popula- tion increases. On the twenty-fifth of July, 1797, at this place, President Lasuen, the successor of Serra, founded the Mission of San Miguel. The walls now seen by you from the car windows are the work of saints and pagans more than one hundred years ago. The prudent Fathers insured a valuable domestic water supply by a ten-mile conduit from the springs of Santa Ysabel. PASO ROBLES N. O., 2272 miles; Alt., 721; Pop. 1500. At Paso Robles and vicinity are located some of the most valued thermal springs of California. One hundred and fifty years ago the invalid white was guided by the red man to these springs as to a fountain of life. During the last half century they have cured and relieved their thousands. Hotel El Paso de Robles, leading in modern sumptuousness, stands behind a floral park, near to and facing the railway depot, and within easy reach of the Hot Springs that are said to hold reserve power to benefit the well, after having cured the sick. A new bathhouse, in Moorish design, with porcelain and marble equipment has replaced the pioneer structure that, at all times heretofore, has earned benisons from those who have enjoyed its benefits; and the second floor of the hotel, by an arcade passageway, is brought into easy and secluded connection with it. The improvements cover every sanitary method of treatment elsewhere found beneficial. Admiral Robley D. Evans recruited here after his famous two-ocean voyage. Santa Ysabel Hot Springs Across the Salinas from Paso Robles Station is the scenic and sanitarium resort, known of the fortunate as Santa Ysabel Hot Springs. For near-by and far-reaching landscape beauty, the scene from the upper bluffs, back of the meadow land, has no peer in California; and a bath in champagne could hardly be more sparkling than one in the warm, sulphurous and healing water's of its magic springs. TEMPLETON N. O., 267 miles; Alt., 772. A romantic landscape, with ancient church ruins. 24 SOUTHERN PACIFIC SANTA MARGARITA A r . O., 2253 miles; Alt,, 996. En route southward from Santa Margarita, across a spur or pass of the Santa Lucia Range, a run of sixteen miles, the earlier part of it through a most restful natural park of oaks, leads to San Luis Obispo. The descent around the inclined horseshoe curve into the valley is of striking interest. The green slopes and wooded crest are as of the Rhine. SAN LUIS OBISPO N. 0., 2236 miles; Alt. ,237; Pop., 6000. This beautiful city may well be named Obispo, securely resting at base of its mitred mountain peak. The urban site proper covers a large area, with noteworthy public buildings, for uses of justice, of worship and of commerce. A notable feature is the State Polytechnic School here, which, with a fine, though still inadequate, equipment, is doing a great work in teaching young men and women the practical sciences of life. In agricultural, home-making way, similarly to Paso Robles and much of the country bordering Salinas River, San Luis Obispo invites immigration. Port Harford, on the Pacific, is seven miles distant, and scenic Morro Rock is on the beach twelve miles from the city. San Luis Sulphur Springs, five miles away, is a popular resort. In the very heart of the city are the walls and the altar of Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, consecrated by Serra on the first day of September, 1772. The mountains belong to the Santa Lucia Range. - OCEANO A T . O., 2222 miles; Alt., 17; Pop., 300. Oceano is station for the rich Arroyo Edna N. O., 2230 miles. Grande Valley, and for its great flower, grain, and fruit farms. EL PIZMO N. 0., 2223 miles; Alt., 25. El Pizmo Beach is one of the finest and most famous of the entire coast. Seventeen miles long and of great width, it is smooth and firm, and the addition of a fine, well-kept hotel, having all desired facilities and conveniences, with cottages and a tent city, has made it a favorite place for automobile meets and runs. WAYSIDE NOTES 25 The hotel at Paso Robles delights pleasure and health seekers alike. GUADALUPE N. O., 2212 miles; Alt., So; Pop., 500. Guadalupe is a bright, attractive town, pleasing to every cultivated sense. It is center of a bean, sugar-beet and dairy country; is shipping point for Santa Maria Valley. It has a five-mile branch railway to Betteravia, at which point is located a beet-sugar factory, which can be seen from the car windows while traversing the hills south of Guadalupe, and here are in sight as well a chain of contiguous lakes. Santa Maria is ten miles distant, reached by electric railway. Near Santa Maria the greatest oil field in the West has been developed, flowing now at the rate of 14,000,000 barrels per annum. Casmalia N. O., 2201 miles. Narlon N. O., 2195 miles. Antonio N. O., 2198 miles. TANGAIR N. O., 2191 miles. Santa Ynez River heads in Santa Ynez Mountains, and finds the ocean near Tangair. 26 SOUTHERN PACIFIC At Santa Ysabel a lake of limpid mineral water. SURF N. O., 2185 miles; Alt., 45. Rock-bound Surf offers fine ocean views. The coast coun- try traversed by the train from San Luis Obispo to Surf is of a very productive quality, abounding in rich grass lands for grazing and for varied agriculture, with emphasis on sugar-beets and beans. Branch Line Surf to Lompoc LOMPOC S. F., 313 miles; Alt., 937; Pop., 1500. This beautiful city is reached by a branch railway line from Surf; the distance, ten miles. The climate is a golden mean between seaside and valley; it is one of the richest 'and most salubrious places in California; here is raised one-half of the mustard used in the United States, and also large crops of beans, sugar-beets and apples. Hotel accommodations are abundant, and suited to varying tastes. Within the city limits are ruins of the first La Purisima Concepcion Mission WAYSIDE NOTES 27 (destroyed by earthquake in 1812); and, about five miles dis- tant, across the river, are the remains of the second mission. Main Line Surf to Santa Barbara Arguello N. O., 2176 miles. Naples N. O., 2133 miles; Alt., 98 Conception N. O., 2163 miles; Alt., 109 Elwood N. O., 2129 miles; Alt., 37 Gaviota N. O., 2149 miles; Alt., 92 Goleta N. O., 2125 miles; Alt., 37 The ocean-line distance from Surf to Santa Barbara is sixty-six miles. For most part the track occupies a sub- stantial buttress of Santa Ynez Mountain Range, with suffi- cient elevation to give commanding views of Santa Barbara Channel and of the chain of romantic islands that marks its outer limits. Of these San Miguel, the most northern, holds the ashes of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, who was buried here on the third day of January, 1543. Then follow in due sequence southeasterly, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz and Ana- capa. Mission Santa Ynez Across the Santa Ynez Range from Goleta, seven miles from Santa Barbara, and near river of same name, September t 17, 1804, was founded Santa Ynez Mission, President Tapis* officiating, SANTA BARBARA N. O., 2118 miles; Alt.,io; Pop. ,12,000. Santa Barbara is a city, and one of the most attractive in California. There is a wide expanse of blue channel water on the ocean side, reaching to the chain of islands that serve as breakwaters to waves born of Chinese monsoons; and, in the background, spurs and peaks and bosky glens of romantic Santa Ynez Range, and the far-reaching Sierra de San Rafael. The city has an unusually delightful country tributary to it; valuable not less for its ability to nourish than for its scenic beauty. Santa Barbara is noted for its equable climate, and as a health resort is to this Coast what Nice and Mentone are to the Mediterranean, with conditions in favor of Santa Bar- bara. If possible to you en route, stop over and take carriage drives through its tributary orchard lands they will be a revelation of what can be garnered when soil and sunshine and water combine to make a record. The traveler should 28 SOUTHERN PACIFIC know of the broad welcome and proverbial comforts of Arlington Hotel and of the Potter, with many lesser hotels, comfortable and in variety. The great beach and mountain drives, the fine baths, the beautiful residence section and the mission offer much of interest. Mission Santa Barbara This is one of the best preserved of California's missions; was founded December 4, 1786, is within the city limits, and may easily be reached by street car lines or on foot. Prayer at its altars, since first established, has never ceased. SUMMERLAND A r . O., 2111 miles; Alt., 47. Summerland (a pleasure resort until in an evil hour for its claims to esthetic beauty, but happy one for its bank ac- counts, underlying oil was discovered) is now successfully invading the adjacent ocean bed, oil hunting. CARPINTERIA N. O., 2106 miles; Alt., n; Pop., 1000. Carpinteria (in Spanish tongue the place of the carpenter) obtained its name from Friar Juan Crespi and his companion pioneers in August, 1769, who found the Indians engaged in such carpentry as may be needful to change the bole of a tree into a canoe. Here is a wonderful grapevine, probably as old as the Mis- sions and larger than any other known on the continent. Its enormous yield is equalled only by the ancient vine at Hamp- ton Court. VENTURA N. O., 2089 miles; Alt., 43; Pop., 3000. This is a pleasant little city, its foot laved by the Pacific and its shoulders well against the uprising mountain range that seems to grudge it needed space. The location received successive and admiring visits from the advance line of Spanish adventurers, and finally, on the thirty-first of March, 1782, Father Serra founded the Mission of San Buenaventura, as he records: "Near the beach and adjoining a native town of conical huts of tule and straw." Ventura produces immense crops of choice apricots, and is by no means wanting in other fruits, with almonds, English walnuts and broad acres of Lima beans. Bordering the city at the north is Buenaventura River, by some map-makers WAYSIDE NOTES 29 called Matilija. This stream heads in, and in some degree drains, the celebrated Ojai Valley, of which Nordhoff is the best-known town; and along its inviting banks from San Buenaventura has been constructed a fifteen-mile branch railway, with terminus at Nordhoff; over this line, and by stage from Nordhoff, the Matilija Hot Springs are reached. The buttressing mountains at rear of San Buenaventura, and in which a basin has been molded to create Ojai Valley, are of the Sierra de San Rafael Range. Nordhoff From San Buenaventura, 15 miles; Alt., 720. MONTALVO A r . O., 2084 miles; Alt., 36. Montalvo marks the western terminus of the cut-off of the Coast Line commencing at Burbank, recently completed by a great tunnel through the range at Chatsworth Park. It may be of interest to the curious to know, as discovered by Ed- ward Everett Hale, that a romance in 1510, by Ordonez de Montalvo, first gave expression to the name California. Chatsworth Cut-off Oxnard N. O., 2068 miles. Santa Susanna N. O., 2044 miles. Somis N. O., 2063 miles. Chatsworth N. O., 2034 miles. Moorpark N. O., 2051 miles. Burbank N. O., 2016 miles. Continuing on the Saugus Line. Saticoy N. O., 2080 miles; Alt., 145; Pop. 500. SANTA PAULA N. O., 2072 miles; Alt., 286; Pop., 1450. Santa Paula is a well-built, enterprising and thrifty town, with large interests in oranges, apricots and other fruits, and in walnuts, Lima beans and petroleum. Fillmore N. O., 2062 miles. PIRU N. O., 2055 miles; Alt., 68 1. Piru, in full harmony with other points in the valley called Santa Clara, and watered by a river of same name, gives generous returns each season in fruits and nuts. CAMULOS N. O., 2053 miles. This cluster of houses, embowered by oranges and olives, and with their backs turned toward the intruding railway, in romance of Helen Hunt Jackson, under name "Moreno c " "" 0) JS 6 WAYSIDE NOTES 31 Ranch," was the home of Ramona. The author's descriptions and locations of points of interest are marvels of exactness. The general mountain range northward, and separating it from the Mojave, is San Rafael; at the south Sierra San Fernando. SAUGUS N. O., 2038 miles; Alt., 1159. At Saugus is junction point of the line south, coming from San Francisco, through San Joaquin Valley and picturesque Tehachapi Mountain, and again in due course will bg reached by us when that line is traced. NEWHALL N. O., 2035 miles; Alt., 1265. Contiguous to Newhall on elevated ground at the east, are petroleum wells that have been large producers for many ; years. TUNNEL N. O., 2031 miles; Alt., 1401. This tunnel, piercing the narrowest section of San Fernando Range, requires five minutes of passenger-train time to cover its distance of nearly one mile and a half; at its southern exit introduces you to the largest olive grove in the world. FERNANDO N. O., 2026 miles; Alt., 1066; Pop., noo. Fernando marks the site of Mission San Fernando, Rey de Espafia, founded by Father Francisco Dumetz, September 8, 1797. The moutain range at the south is Sierra de Santa Monica, with Santa Susanna in the west, northerly the San Fernando Range, and the famous San Gabriel at the east. BURBANK A r . O,, 2016 miles; Alt., 461; Pop., 500. Here joins the line recently constructed from Montalvo via Oxnard and Chatsworth Park, where a great tunnel has been successfully bored through the mountain range. Burbank is the center of a rich farming country, enough to support a city. Going back to Montalvo, we follow the new line to its junction here. OXNARD N. O., 2068 miles; Pop., 2800. The site six years ago was a barley field. The transforma- tion is due to sugar-beets. The great factory here produces 32 SOUTHERN PACIFIC Starting from the Baths a long, palm-shaded boulevard parallels Santa Barbara water front. about 1,000 carloads of sugar yearly, and can crush 2,000 tons of beets daily. It is one of the largest on the continent. Beans and walnuts and a large amount of grain are produced in the vicinity, which reaches down to the ocean. Beet pulp feeds many thousand head of cattle. SOMIS A r . O., 2063 miles; Alt., 254. Overlooks Las Posas Valley and the ocean. Beans, nuts, deciduous fruits, barley, corn, wheat and oats do well here. CHATSWORTH PARK N. O., 2034 miles; Alt., 956. The Santa Susanna tunnel is here, a mile and a half long, a doorway between the San Fernando and the Santa Clara Valleys. It shortens the line six miles and reduces the grade. Around the great bore is an old-fashioned farming country, looking attractive to the eye. The crop returns fill many cars. WAYSIDE NOTES 33 Oil from under the water is an interesting paradox at Summerland. Sepulveda N. O., 2014 miles. West Glendel N. O., 2013 miles. Tropico N. O., 2011 miles. River Station Suburban. Nearing Los Angeles the Pigeon Farm on west side of track contains 15,000 birds. ARCADE DEPOT -Lay Anodes; N. O,, ^006 miles; Alt., 293; Pop., 240,000. This incoming to southern Queen City has been along the bank of Los Angeles River, less songful now than when it was named Porciuncula, in 1769. It rises in the San Fer- nando and the San Gabriel Ranges of mountains, and, when it flowed bank-full, emptied into San Pedro Bay. Deferring the consideration of Los Angeles and its tribu- taries, we turn now to the wharf at foot of Market Street, San Francisco, with purpose to reveal other lines of Southern Pacific Company that connect the metropolis and Central California with Los Angeles. 34 SOUTHERN PACIFIC SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY LINE San Francisco to Los Angeles SAN FRANCISCO N. O., 2489 miles; Alt., 12; Pop., 435,000. If such is the choice, the eastward start can be from a ferry landing at foot of Market Street, fitting gateway to the metropolis of the Pacific. A run of fifteen minutes on a safe and commodious boat across an arm of the Bay of San Francisco brings you to the waiting train at outer terminus of Southern Pacific's Oakland Pier. Look back and see the lines and terraces of the metropolis you have left its granite walls and uplifted dome are replaced and the vast area left naked by the great fire is covered with fine buildings again, and there is the appear- ance and impression of a city. With thought it may be of severed socialities, give it your benediction; then, looking across Bay water, northerly of Golden Gate, Mt. Tamalpais, its hotel-crowned summit upon occasion reached by you within a ride of two hours of boat and rail from San Francisco. Fort Alcatraz, tide-washed island rock, is in the middle distance as you view Mt. Tamalpais, and Angel Island, northerly from it, occupying a central place in the Bay. On Goat Island the Government maintains an important naval training station for apprentices and a lighthouse. At the wharf will be seen, in passing, the veteran sloop of war "Pensacola," one of Farragut's old squadron. The French have a saying in effect, "It is the first step that costs," but on this trip the first step pays. A run of thirty miles along the shore of island-gemmed San Francisco Bay is very interesting. OAKLAND S. F., 7 miles; Pop., 230,000. The third city of the Pacific Coast; with its suburbs from which it is not separated, save by imaginary lines, perhaps the second. Its channel harbor is lined with great manufactur- ing industries. It is the greatest railway center of the West, and its manufacturing and distributing business grows ac- cordingly. The business streets are being lined with sky- scrapers. It has beautiful residence sections. WAYSIDE NOTES 35 The porch at Camulos, scene of the entrancing romance, "Ramona." BERKELEY.?. F., 9 miles; Alt., 12; Pop., 100,000. Berkeley directly adjoins Oakland, with which it is closely connected, the intervening space having been rapidly built up. Facing the Golden Gate, it rivals Oakland as a residential city. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA In this city, on an ele- vated bench, the buttress of a range of hills, is located the University of California, richly endowed and generously fos- tered by the State. On the material side there is likely to be no want; the faculty is numerous and able some mem- bers of it with world-wide reputations; and the student roll, matter of pardonable State pride. RICHMOND Between Stege and San Pablo. In six years a village has grown here to a city of 10,000 through the location of important manufacturing industries along its deepwater frontage. Stege S. F., 14 miles. Selby S. F., 28 miles. Location of San Pablo S. F., 18 miles, extensive reduction and refining Pinole S. F., 24 miles. works. Rodeo S. F., 26 miles. 36 SOUTHERN PACIFIC VALLEJO JUNCTION S. F., 29 miles; Alt,, 12. This station is at the mouth of Carquinez Strait, connecting San Pablo and Suisun Bays (local names for waters of San Francisco Bay). It is about ten miles long, one mile wide, of great depth, and much frequented by sea-going vessels for benefit of its sweet waters in removing barnacles from their hulls. Across the mouth is Mare Island, naval yard of the United States, located and established by Captain Farragut in 1854 a place of growing importance with our expanding Pacific ocean interests. CROCKETT S. F., 30 miles; Alt., 12. Here is a large beet-sugar factory and refinery. MARTINEZ S. F., 36 miles; Pop., 3000. This is the county town of Contra Costa and is well located, backed by rounded hills and fronted by the Straits. The climate is almost ideal. Hidden valleys are picturesque and are watched over by vine-clad hills. Farther back are wheat and much deciduous fruit. It is a good region for the farmer, while on the bay shore are various manufactories. PORT COSTA S. F. } 32 miles; Alt., 12; Pop., 600. Bay Point A new city, to be Parting of the ways. Trains for the greatest wood-working continental transit via Ogden, and AStoSA.'r.tfSta. as wfll those for all the world, Byron S. F., 58 miles. via Portland, Or., are run upon BrentwoodS. F., 63 miles. steamer Splano, and quickly reach the City of Benicia on the opposite bank. For the San Joaquin Valley the trains skirt the north shore, traversing a fine part of the county. BYRON HOT SPRINGS Two miles from Byron station are located the celebrated Byron Hot Springs. Antedating the arrival of Anglo-Saxons, these thermal waters were tested by the red man, and pro- nounced "good medicine." Pioneers suspended nugget gather- ing to garner health at these life-restoring fountains. From time to time, during the past half century, temporary accom- modations and appliances have been superseded by others of WAYSIDE NOTES 37 higher class, until, under the present management, the summit appears to have been reached. With view to broaden the popular field of the springs, so as to include recreation and pleasure, with that of sanitation, there has been constructed a sumptuous hotel in attractive Moorish design, richly furnished and offering to its guests every luxury of modern times. Cot- tages for invalids who court seclusion, are also provided; and the attendance of a competent physician, to any who may desire. Carriages connect the springs with the station. MT. DIABLO S. F., 40 miles; Alt., 3896. Bethany $ F 77 miles On the ri & ht as y u P ass eastwardly 'is Mt. Diablo, altitude 3896, with double peaks. Its summit easily reached, and repays the effort by its magnificent views. Is centrally located in the county. TRACY 5. F., 83 miles; Alt., 64; Pop., 800. From San Francisco the approach is by two lines, one of them that is herein followed, and the other, also from San Francisco, but via Niles and Livermore. From viewpoint of arrival, the outgoings are, respectively, to the right, via west side San Joaquin to junction with the main line at Fresno; ,to the left, for Lathrop. SAN LEANDRO 5*. F., 16 miles; Alt., 48; Pop., 4000. Lorenzo S F 1 8 miles Sari Leandro and Lorenzo are wealth- producing towns largely devoted to manufactures and fruit raising, and are much in popular favor for country places by business men of the metropolis. HAYWARD 5 1 . F. } 21 miles; Alt., 74; Pop., 3500. Decoto-S. F., 27 miles. Hay ward is a large town, beautifully situated on elevated ground, devoted to fruit and the entertainment of thousands who are attracted by its virtues. Decoto is umbrageous and homelike, with merit sufficient to secure the Masonic Home for benefit of fraters and their families an imposing structure on sightly elevation. NILES S. F., 30 miles; Alt., 83. Noted for its fine and extensive P/r/^L-'s'^t/miles. nurseries. Marks a point of railway junction; to the right, for San Jose; to the left, for Tracy, via Livermore. This we follow. WAYSIDE NOTES 39 The start for Niles is a plunge into a romantic canyon, its lowest level the bed of a living stream. The banks on each side as you pass upward have an elevated skyline, and, where not occupied by picturesque cottages and their fruit trees and vines, are covered by a generous growth of flowering shrubs and trees, including madrono, manzanita and laurel. At Sunol olive parks fill much of the foothill space at the left. Pleasanton finds a broader valley for its growth, and many hop gardens, vineyards and wineries will be noted in the vicinity. LIVERMORE S. F., 48 miles; Alt., 486; Pop., 1500. Livermore is an important town, centrally located in the valley from which it derives its name. Its commerce and manufactures are of notable importance. To the left are seen the peaks of Mt. Diablo, and the surrounding ridges are spurs of the Coast Range. Hay and wine-making are leading industries. * ALTAMONT ,9. F., 56 miles; Alt., 740. Altamont and Midway are important Midway S.F., 64 miles. to those who operate the railway, but Tracy S. F.. 72 miles. , , ,. J) . BantaS. F., 86 miles. not largely so as to the passing traveler. A tunnel pierces the moun- tain spur, and passing Midway you are soon in the valley of San Joaquin at Tracy, on opposite side the station from that of your arrival via Port Costa; and the mileage 72 instead of 83. Fuller description of the great valley we have tra- versed will be found in the Southern Pacific's little book, "The San Joaquin Valley." It contains 96 pages, well illustrated. TURLOCK 5. F., 106 miles; Alt., 72; Pop., 2000. This growing town is along the Stanislaus River. When the fathers first visited San Joaquin Valley (then called Tulares) they were met by an important Indian chief named Estanislaus; this, decapitated, became the name of the moun- tain stream. The irrigated lands here are filling up with settlers. The soil is rich and easily worked. 40 SOUTHERN PACIFIC The old Independence at Mare Island is now a training ship. MODESTO S. P., //_/ miles; Alt., QT; Pop., 4000. Modesto, a center of trade and seat of Tuolumne Rtver justice for County of Stanislaus, is on Leres S. r., 119 miles. ;, ,. L i r *r 1 T- Turlock S. F., 127 miles. the northern bank of Tuolumne River, doubly bridged at this point, and some- times navigable for small craft. The river is an affluent of San Joaquin and rises in the upper fastnesses of the Sierra. The La Grange Dam on this river provides water for the districts of Modesto and Turlock, and is making a prosperous farming community on both banks of the stream. The dam was built and is owned by farmers. It cost $550,000. MERCED RIVER S. F., 135 miles; Alt., 136. Here the famed Merced is crossed. 7 l^af/r--sTF. M; mile's ' Jt carries the merest thread of water, and yet that is all utility has left of the abundant floods that pour down . the granite walls o( WAYSIDE NOTES 41 Byron Hot Springs where the Indian long ago found "good medicine." Yosemite a tide so needful to the parched lands of San Joaquin could not be permitted to waste itself in the saline Bay of San Francisco. At cost exceeding three millions, by private enterprise, canals were cut in the walls of Merced Canon, diverting dams were built, and a storage reservoir created, fitted to hold in reserve the water supply of a season. Then mains of sub- stantial iron and canals were provided, with laterals to reach every thirsty acre of an empire, not to mention a supply system for the city of Merced that lies in the heart of the scheme. MERCED 5. F., 152 miles; Alt.., 171; Pop., 3500. This city and the country tributary to Mitt-!. F.'.^Smife" * enjoy Merced River by conquest. In the park facing the station grounds has been erected a granite and marble fountain, which sends 42 SOUTHERN PACIFIC The Solano, the largest ferry-boat in the business. sparkling showers aloft for joy of all beholders. These laughing waters, in voice that now sings small, erstwhile thundered at base of Yosemite cliffs; no memory here of their mountain birthplace, its bird song, its whispering pines and floral incense. They speak not of Merced's majestic plunge at Nevada and Vernal Falls; have no tradition of stupendous, awe-inspiring Yosemite's half-mile leap from sky to earth; no pride of descent from nuptial beauty of irri- descent Bridal Veil. All these to this fountain water are less than a tale that is told, but the traveler may turn his face eastward and see the silver-crested Sierra, forming the hundred-mile-distant sky line, and behold the mighty labora- tory from which is drawn these musical raindrops and the wealth of a State. SAN JOAQUIN RIVER 5. F., 91 miles. This, to be again crossed by you 197 miles from San Fran- WAYSIDE NOTES 43 cisco, drains the western watershed of a section of the Sierra Nevada, equal to a length 'of 270 miles. It also includes the entire breadth of San Joaquin Valley and the eastern slope of the Coast Range, thus covering no less than twenty thou- sand square miles. When you see how little water it carries, it will be an act of justice to give credit for having paid irrigation tribute to more than twenty thousand acres of thirsty farm lands. LATHROP S. F., 94 miles; Alt., 26; Pop., 300. Kt/*m-S.F., 105 miles. Although not a large town, Lathrop has always occupied an important place in passenger itineraries. Of signal moment is a junc- tion place reached by three lines one of them from the southwest, over which your approach was made; the second from the south, with memories of Los Angeles, and will be traversed by you in outgoing; the third, on the left hand at your arrival, points the way to Stockton, a large and import- ant city, nine miles distant, and to Sacramento, the capital of the State, fifty-seven miles from Lathrop. Sacramento is on the main lines, San Francisco to Ogden, and San Francisco to Portland, Oregon. YOSEMITE VALLEY and MARIPOSA BIG TREES From Merced a railroad has been constructed up the Merced River, past Merced Falls, to El Portal, at the en- trance to the far-famed Yosemite Valley. The Mariposa Grove of Big Trees is now reached from Yosemite Valley by short stage ride. Some of these majestic trees are 400 feet high and are the oldest living things on earth. The Yosemite and the Big Trees are fully described and illustrated in a separate folder. The new line in connection with the Southern Pacific, lands passengers at the Park Line. BERENDA S. F. } 178 miles; Alt., 256. From Berenda a branch line runs to Raymond, Yosemite twenty-one miles distant. This was for many years the route to the Yosemite Valley, but Yosemite is now reached via Merced and the railroad up the Canon. 44 SOUTHERN PACIFIC MADERA S. F., 185 miles; Alt., 278; Pop., 2200. Borden-S.F.,^ miles. Cou ^ seat ' , A " important wood- working manufactory. The lumber used is cut in the Sierra Nevada, one hundred miles away, sent to the factory by water in a V flume, the sawed lumber with- drawn on arrival, and the water made to irrigate contiguous lands. SAN JOAQUIN RIVER (2d Crossing) 5". F., 197 miles; Alt., 298. The bridge is elevated and gives pic- &*=& F:; ? EaS turesque views along the stream. Gold in small quantities has been taken from its sands a short distance above. FRESNO 5\ P., 207 miles; Alt., 293; Pop., 22,000. At first sight, and as well on mature acquaintance, Fresno will be pronounced a fine city. Is seat of government of a rich county; has opulent, enterprising merchants and bankers and extensive manufactures. Notable among the latter, several immense establishments for seeding raisins; also creameries, a large fruit-canning factory and extensive winery. It has machine shops and wood-working factory, flour mills and mammoth electrical plant, from water power in the Sierra. The output of fruit and wines is phenomenal; receipts for raisins alone reach into the millions. Fresno has a branch line of 24 miles to Pollasky, near the Sierra Nevada foothills, via Clovis, and a loop line, 104 miles to Famoso, a station on the main line, 87 miles south of Fresno. This loop line reaches a rich lumber, agricultural, citrus and deciduous fruit country along the base of the Sierra, and includes the important towns of Sanger Junction, Reedley, Dinuba, Exeter, Lindsay and Porterville, the last three also reached by line from Visalia. It is also the junc- tion point of the West Side Line, of which mention was made at Tracy, and its itinerary will now be given. WAYSIDE NOTES 45 VALLEY LINE WEST SIDE WESTLEY 5. F., 101 miles; Alt., 89. Crows Landing-^. F., 113 miles. Shortly after leaving Tracy the tram will pause, and then pro- ceed, crossing a railway track at an obtuse angle. This is a line running from Stockton to Corral Hollow Coal Mines, located in the Livermore or Mt. Diablo Coast Range. Westley and Crows Landing occupy important places in a wheat-raising district traversed by the railway line, and east- wardly bordered by San Joaquin River, on which stands the early-day town of Crows Landing. NEWMAN S. F., 120 miles; Alt., 91; Pop., 800. Newman is the most considerable town of the West Side. Has the benefit of wealth and business enterprise. Large orchards and vinyards tributary to it, and cereals extensively cultivated. Extending southward for more than one hundred miles the land is irrigated; much of it growing alfalfa for benefit of stock-raising. As you traverse this "land of clover" it will be a delight to see the cropping herds on its perennial green. LINORA S. F., 127 miles. r -B c -r, ., Linora and Los Barios testify of LosBanos-S. F., 141 miles. ^^ ^ ^^ but the cultivation of wheat and other cereals and of vegetables and fruit are by no means neglected. These irrigated lands attract water-fowl and offer heavy bags to visiting sportsmen. During the winter months the landscape is white with countless thou- sands of wild geese. DOS PALOS S. F., 154 miles; Alt., 121. Contiguous to Dos Palos easterly, SSSBS^F^s'MS?: on bank o* San Joaquin River, is a populous and thrifty settlement, con- taining seyeral hundred inhabitants. The sportsman will not fail to notice abundant water-fowl along this West Side Line. In the season mallards, widgeon and teal are flushed by passing trains. WAYSIDE NOTES 47 Firebaugh is an important wool-shipping point, and concen- tration of live-stock interests. Mendota, terminus of trainmen's run, and on their side the subject of first and last importance. KERMAN S. F., 194 miles; Alt., 218; Pop., 500. Here the railway divides: one branch, to the right, covers a rich country, and the towns of McMullin, Caruthers, Lillis, Armona and Hanford, and returns to the main line at Goshen Junction, a distance of fifty-two miles south of Collis. The branch to the left makes a run of fifteen miles to Fresno. The observant traveler sees almost everywhere in San Joaquin Valley certain broad acres of Chilean clover, alfalfa or lucerne, an invaluable adjunct to general farming, and those around Kerman, now under irrigation, are wonderfully productive. Under irrigation it may be cut from three to five times a year for hay, and pastured during the winter months. MALAGA 5\ F., 211 miles; Alt., 298. Fowler-S. F., 2 i6 miles. Within twenty-five miles of Fresno, SelmaS. F., 222 miles. easterly, on Southern Pacific Com- Kingsburg S. F., 227 miles, pany's main line, is a country rich TraverS. F., 232 miles. in the products o f husbandry, with centers of commerce at convenient distances. These are Malaga (the aroma of its raisins detected in the name), Fowler, Selma and Traver, each blessed of Ceres and of Pomona. KINGS RIVER S. F., 229 miles; Alt., 300. The canons on the South Fork and the Middle Fork of this river constitute a second Yosemite, well worth going to see. GOSHEN JUNCTION 5\ F., 241 miles; Alt,, 286. This claims to be a junction merely, but its associations are of the best, including the county seats of both Kings and Tulare. 48 SOUTHERN PACIFIC The Fallen Monarch imperial in its fall. Armona S. F., 257 miles. Lemoore S. F., 262 miles. Huron S. F., 281 miles. Coalinga S. F., 296 miles. Alcalde S. F., 301 miles. HANFORD S. F., 254 miles; Alt., 250; Pop., 5000. Thirteen miles westerly from Goshen Junction, on a branch line, is the city of Hanford, county seat of Kings County. It is noted for mer- cantile energy and thrift, fruit and stock-raising; general farming and manufactures are also tributary to it. The city is substantially built, and the trav- eler can find rest at its hotels, chief of them the Artesia and the Aborn. On the same branch line, three miles westerly, is the thriving fruit center called Armona, and five miles be- yond, the more important town of Lemoore. A further run of nineteen miles reaches Huron; fifteen miles to Coalinga, and five to the terminus at Alcalde. Near Coalinga is a valuable petroleum field, developing large output. WAYSIDE NOTES 49 VISALIA 5. F., 249 miles; Alt., 333; Pop., 5000. Farmers-vine^. F., 255 miles. On branch line, eight miles from Exeter S. F., 259 miles. Goshen Junction. It is seat of Lindsay S. F., 269 miles government for Tula're County, P^//.-S.F,2 7 6nnles. * lanted in a spedally Hch agric j: tural and fruit district, embowered in native oaks. It has much civic pride, resulting in clean, well-paved streets, and sidewalks of artificial stone and asphalt. The public buildings are highly creditable, with special mention of the court-house. The banks and commercial marts are well housed, and on the hotel side, there is civic pride in "Palace," but others also are not wanting. SANGER S. F., 221 miles; Alt., 370. A branch road from Fresno skirts the east side foothills. Sanger is a lumber town and connected by a great flume with the mountain forests. REEDLEY S. F., 231 miles; Alt., 349. A horticultural town, with good schools and churches, general stores, a bank and weekly paper. DINUBA S. F., 237 miles; Alt., 335. In Alta Irrigation District, and a region of alfalfa, vines and fruit trees. EXETER S. F., 267 miles; Alt., 327. LINDSAY^. F., 260 miles; Alt., 319. PORTERVILLE S. F., 276 miles; Alt., 335. These are growing orange towns and are great producers of early oranges of highest quality, and the country tribu- tary to them is of the best. Indeed, this promises to rival Redlands and Riverside as an orange district. Freedom from mists and frosts and remoteness from the sea make the region almost ideal. Visalia.and Exeter are points of departure for the great Giant Forest of Big Trees and the wonderful Kings River and Tehipite Canons which rival the Yosemite in their grandeur. An electric line runs from Exeter to Lemon Cove and connects with stage line. 50 SOUTHERN PACIFIC Kings River Canyon should be the Mecca of every sportsman. Main Line TULARE 5\ F., 251 miles; Alt., 282; Pop., 3000. Tulare enjoys an active and health- pffi^i *::**$ *ul business life, its surrounding Delano S. F., 282 miles. lands tributary in cereals, fruit and FamosoS. F., 294 miles. stock. Tulare gives a generous OUJunctionS 3( F.^3i Smiles. response when called upon for the varied productions that go to make up the ideal of general farming. Much of the land is wooded in oaks of rare beauty wide-spreading and stately. KERN RIVER S. F., 312 miles; Alt., 410. This is one of the most valued irrigation rivers of San Joaquin Valley; head waters of it fed by glaciers of Mt. Whitney. It was named in honor of Edward M. Kern, the topographer of Fremont's second trip to California, in the year 1846. WAYSIDE NOTES 51 BAKERSFIELD S. F., 314 miles; Alt., 415; Pop., 10,000. It is to be regretted this beautiful city Wade S. F., 321 miles. lies hidden from view of passing tour- PampaS. F., 329 miles. J s t behind a mile-deep screen of luxuriant trees. A county town, with notable courthouse, hotels, banks, opera houses, churches and substantial business blocks. The great breadth of irrigated land about it gives assurance of future prosperity. A branch line of railway leads to Asphalto, McKittrick and Olig, fifty miles westerly. From Oil Junction a six-mile branch runs to Oil City, at which are phenomenal developments of petroleum. Im- portant acquisitions of oil have also been made in the Sunset district, and as well in vicinity of McKittrick, all tributary to Bakersfield in business way. CALIENTE Alt., 1290; S. F., 336 miles. This is somewhat beyond the head of Bealville S. F., 342 miles. San Joaquin Valley, but is frequently KeeneS. F 350 miles so accredited, because here begins Gir'ard-^F^lm^ the climb of Tehachapi. The stream at Caliente is Agua Caliente Creek. TEHACHAPI S. F., 362 miles; Alt., 4025. The town and valley in which it is Cammm-S. F., 37 , miles. ^^ ^ mou ntam sheltered. Your advent has been by pass from the north, and departure will be southward to Mojave. Tehachapi markets no little grain and hay, and makes fine showing in the production of stock. MOJAVE^-S. F., 382 miles; Pop., 600; Alt., 2751. When the roll of deserts is being Rosamond S.F., 396 miles. called, Mojave now refuses to an- pSSSS^ft&SSS: ' swer. Under the benign influence of irrigation some of it from mountain sources and some from artesian wells portions of this valley begin to respond in cereals, fruits and flowers. This will be noted at Rosamond, Lancaster and Palmdale. Of these, Lancaster has been most energetic, the underlying artesian water showing no sign of exhaustion. The Hotel Eating 52 SOUTHERN PACIFIC House at Mojave is one of the best. The railway divergent eastward is Santa Fe. LANG S. F., 440 miles; Alt., 1687. This station has a romantic situation in Soledad Canon, with towering San Gabriel Mountain range at the east, in its fulness to become San Bernardino. Passing down this canon of sunshine and shade, here and there are seen orchards, gardens, apiaries, farmsteads, and at its mouth Santa Clara River and Valley, each terminating with Pacific tide water, fifty miles westward. SAUGUS S. F., 452 miles; Alt., 1160. This is junction point with Coast Line heretofore visited by us, and we now pass on to Los Angeles. LOS ANGELES N. 0., 2006 miles; Pop., 250,000; Alt., 293. Pueblo to Reina de Los Angeles This was the full original title of California's southern me- tropolis, well befitting the dolce far niente Spaniard, who had all the time there was. The short circuited Anglo-Saxon, with minimum faith in Reinas, drops all except the Angeles. It was founded September 4, 1781, with 12 heads of families, numbering 46 persons; under favoring skies and the rich fostering of Mother Earth it has grown apace to the quarter million mark, with evident intention of imperial expansion to absorption, certainly of Santa Monica, and of San Pedro, probably. No city of modern times is better or more favorably known; projected on lines of beauty, with curves and angles, streets well metaled and cleanly, traversed by commodious and flying cars; attractive parks, ^perennially floral and umbrageous, inviting to rest and self-communing, with prom- ise that Time shall wait your pleasure; stately municipal buildings, set aloft, where the conservators of urban happi- ness may have their entire charge under observation; streets bordered by high-class business blocks of material to endure. WAYSIDE NOTES 53 SUNSET ROUTE Los Angeles to New Orleans The departure from Los Angeles to the east is across a bridge, over the bed of -a river the bed only being left by irrigable lands thirsty for water. This river rises in the San Fernando and San Gabriel Mountain ranges, northerly, and when it carries water, delivers it at San Pedro Bay. The original name of the stream 130 years ago was Porciuncula, but at an early day became, as it now is, the Los Angeles. Southerly from Los Angeles the mountains are Santa Ana. Of the many attractive places encircling Los Angeles, in brief phrase a few shall now be indicated. SANTA MONICA Los Angeles, 17 miles; Alt., 41; Pop., 7500. Santa Monica is a valued sub- Clement Junction L. A., 2 miles. urban resort of Los .Angeles, &t^ L L A A, 4 5 m mne S s. not less so because of proximity Cienega L. A., 7 miles. than varied merits. The location SurfL. A. 10 miles. is a n elevated bluff of the ocean, 1 he Palms L. A., 12 miles. _ n j i___ f i__ 11C na1 aHi'nn^fc nf Home Junction L. A., 13 miles. and , has the usual adjuncts Ot Soldiers' Home L. A., 15 miles. popular watering places. Both electric and steam transit fur- nish communication with the beaches. Hotels and boarding-houses, so important to visitors, are in endless variety. The seaward, gently shelving beach to bathers, and the recently constructed surf-water wharf for angling, constantly draw enthusiastic crowds. Just below Santa Monica are Ocean Park, which has be- come a seaside city with large business and residential popu- lation, and Venice, a "City of Pleasure," and of beauty, like its prototype. Here sports and festivities of all kinds may be found and a considerable permanent population has been drawn to it by its many attractions. Venice, like Venus, was born of the sea, with the gift of a marvelous beauty. Young as it is, it is a complete city, constructed upon Venetian and Parisian lines, with lagoons, canals, arcades, music pavilions, auditorium, ship hotel, and a score of other allurements. It has become the chief recrea- tion center of Southern California, and a residential seaside resort as well. It is but a short distance from Santa Monica. I WAYSIDE NOTES 55 Ocean Park adjoins both and is another wonderful illus- tration of enterprise and of rapid growth of a substantial character. It has a fine theatre and Masonic Hall, banks, churches, schools, a fine bathing pavilion and beach, and an assessed valuation of a million. PORT LOS ANGELES Los Angeles, 20 miles; Alt., 25. Three-mile, deep-sea wharf, which incidentally invites and rewards a continuous line of anglers, desirous of tempting nobler game than can be captured in the surf. PASADENA Los Angeles, 12 miles; Alt., 826; Pop., 20,000. From Arcade Depot six or more lA^omne, trains daily are scheduled for Pasadena, with returning ser- vice to correspond. The urban beauty and social atmosphere of this city of refined homes must be seen and breathed to be fully appreciated. MT. LOWE Alt., 6000 feet. From station door of Southern Pacific Y E e ch A o lP MolnMnH n ou Se Company at Pasadena an electric car can be taken to Mt. Lowe, distant less than sixty minutes. The instep of the mountain's foot being reached, the cable incline railway gives safe and exciting transit to Echo Mountain, 3500 feet above ocean-level. Hence by railway upward 1500 feet to "Ye Alpine Tavern," where suitable refreshments are not wanting, and thence by patient saddle animals to mountain fastnesses above. SAN PEDRO Los Angeles, 22 miles; Alt., 12; Pop., 3500. From Arcade Depot the cars of VernondaleL. A., 3 miles. Southern Pacific Company, in a fifty- Florence L. A., 5 mites. minute run, reach San Pedro, where cTJpTon-b A.; ?.1S. the United States Government is con- Cerritos L. A., 14 miles. structing a granite breakwater that Wilmington L. A., 20 miles. W JH be priceless to commercial in- terests. AVALON and SANTA CATALINA ISLAND Avalon, on the island of >Santa Catalina, is distant from San Pedro three hours of safe and usually pleasant stealing. 56 SOUTHERN PACIFIC Los Angeles, California's southern metropolis. This is crystallized fairyland; the placid and translucent waters teem with every form of marine algae and piscine life. Here, if anywhere on earth, is the place to acquire the reputa- tion of successful angler. Atmospheric and terra firma at- tractions are in harmony with the ocean's profusion. "Any place to stop?" No end of them from "tent on the beach" to luxurious Hotel Metropole. LONG BEACH Los Angeles, 21 miles; Alt., 24; Pop., 21,000. The twenty-one miles from Ar- cade Depot, marginally indicated hereon, are covered by train in forty-five minutes. It is a most restful, quiet seaside, held in great esteem by guardians for their wards, for the genius of sobriety and good order pre- sides over it, assisted by annual sessions of Chautauqua. The city fathers have extended a promenade and fishing Clement Junction L. A., 2 miles. Florence L. A., 5 miles. Compton L. A., 10 miles. Thenard L. A., 13 miles. WAYSIDE NOTES 57 In a Los Angeles Park. wharf to and beyond the outer surf line, for enjoyment of lovers of the "gentle craft," and in all reasonable ways are presenting attractions to young and old. As at other resorts named, ample provision is made for public entertainment. SANTA ANA Los Angeles, Florence L. A., 5 miles. Succulent clover and lowing herds. Vinvale L. A., 9 miles. Downey L. A., n miles. Flowers and fruit, promise and fruition. Studebaker L. A., 14 miles. Norwalk L. A., 15 miles. Carmenita L. A., 18 miles. Buena Park L. A., 21 miles. Almond L. A., 22 miles. Brookshurst L. A., 23 miles. ANAHEIM Alt., 133; L. A., 25 miles. Anaheim is a large pro- ducer of wine, nuts, fruit and sugar-beets. 32 miles; Alt., 134; Pop., 8000. Miraflores L. A., 27 miles. Orange L. A., 30 miles. Is not a misnomer. Newport L. A., 44 miles. Smeltser L. A., 55 miles. Branch from Loara to Los Alamitos Loara L. A., 24 miles. Benedict L. A., 29 miles. .Los Alamitos L. A., 34 miles. Na- ture's invitation to sugar-beet cul- ture is accepted with profit. A beet-sugar factory of large capa- city in successful operation. 58 SOUTHERN PACIFIC Santa Monica, sunny and popular. Santa Ana is the proud seat of government for Orange County, and revels in floral and fruit prosperity. The city is well built, with many fine blocks of enduring materials; in urban and suburban districts are private homes of refinement and elegance. The country covered by the railway to Santa Ana from Los Angeles, and, as well, the tributary fields im- mediately surrounding it, are under high cultivation in citrus and deciduous fruits, vines, almonds, English walnuts, sugar- beets, vegetables and grain. The wine output is large, and grazing and dairy interests are actively fostered. WHITTIER Los Angeles, 20 miles; Alt., 240; Pop., 4,000. Fulton Wells L. A., 16 miles. Well- Los Nietos L. A., 17 miles. Walnuts approved watering place. for the world. Whittier is a high-class, prosperous and well-governed city. It is seat of a juvenile reformatory, established by the State. WAYSIDE NOTES 59 The Lagoon at Venice, a recreation resort. Branch from Miraflores Marlboro L. A., 30 miles. Wanda L. A., 33 miles. McPherson L. A., 34 miles. El Modena L. A., 35 miles. Tustin L. A., 38 miles. An arti- ficial wilderness of walnuts and citrus and deciduous fruits. SAN DIEGO Los Angeles, 126 miles; Alt., 15; Pop., 30,000. From Los Angeles this growing and attractive city is reached by line of Santa Fe Coast Line. The wayside attractions, not to name its orange groves and walnut parks, include the pathetic ruins of Mission San Juan Capistrano, founded November 1, 1776. The ruins will reward the trouble of inspection. The following fifty miles overlook the ocean beach. MISSION SAN DIEGO ALCALA San Diego has perennial attractions, chief of these on the romantic side the remains of Mission San Diego de Alcala, 60 SOUTHERN PACIFIC founded by Father Serra, July 16, 1769, first born of a mission family of twenty-one. The city's architectural achievements are numerous, its street railways admirable, and commercial enterprise of the first order. Dearer, however, to the transient pilgrim are its numerous and well-appointed hotels; best known of them the world over and held in high esteem, the famed Del Coronado. Enviable he who has not already enjoyed its hospitality, for a new sensation awaits him. Resuming the main line eastward trip at Los Angeles. Dolgeville Alt., 459; N. O., 2000 Alhambra Alt., 425; N. O., 1998 m. miles. From here branch lines Aurant Alt., 364; N. O., 2003 m. reach Pasadena, Monrovia and Duarte. SAN GABRIEL N. O., 1997 miles; Alt., 409; Pop., 1500. MISSION SAN GABRIEL Resuming eastward journey at Los Angeles, San Gabriel is first station of note reached. A short distance westerly of the station is the revered Mission San Gabriel. It was founded by Fathers Somera and Cambon, September 8, 1771. It was a powerful factor in the settlement of California by Spaniards, and on more than one occasion came generously to the assist- ance of the less fortunate. Savanna Alt, 296; N. O., 1994 Monte Alt., 286; N. O., 1993 miles, miles. Near Bassett a long bridge is crossed, spanning the bed of San Gabriel River, that rises in Mt. San Antonio, in San Gabriel Range, and empties into San Pedro Bay. Ancient San Gabriel Mission utilized this stream. Its waters are now all withdrawn for irrigation uses. Bassett Alt., 289; N. O., 1990 Lemon N. O., 1981 miles. miles. At Bassett a loop line, via Spadra Alt., 705; N. O., 1979 m. Covina, extends to Pomona, here- Small stream, San Jose Creek, tofore noted. runs past Puente and empties into Puente Alt., 323; N. O., 1987 m. Puente Creek and San Pedro Bay. MONROVIA AND DUARTE Dolgeville L. A., 5 miles. Chapman L. A., n miles. North Alhambra L. A., 6 miles. Arcadia L. A., 13 miles. San Marino L. A., 8 miles. . Monrovia L. A., 15 miles. Sunny Slope L. A., ip miles. Duarte L. A., 17 miles. WAYSIDE NOTES 61 Whoso seeks a sylvan paradise will find it on this seventeen- mile trip. The laden branches of bloom or fruit (it may be both) of orange and lemon will invade the car windows in generous greeting. Loop from Bassett to Pomona on Main Line Vineland L. A., 18 miles. Erwindale L. A., 19 miles. CO VINA Los Angeles, 24 miles; Alt., 565; Pop., 2300. c n . T A A visit to the productive groves of L a o n rd7burg-L .' t' v mfe*' Covina will justify any reasonable cost of time and treasure. Its orange output is phenomenal in quantity and excellence. POMONA N. O., 1973 miles; Alt., 857; Pop., 7500. This beautiful city, dedicated to Pomona, seems blest of Providence in well-deserved fame for its fruitage, and its still more precious social life. The city abounds in citrus trees, and for miles around are groves of oranges and lemons, with sturdy figs and swaying willowy olives, walnuts, al- monds and deciduous fruits. ONTARIO N. O., 1967 miles; Alt., 981; Pop., 4500. Ontario is enriched by successful horticulture; the intel- lectual and social atmosphere is of the highest, and much pride is taken in its avenues and drives, shaded by drooping pepper and other ornamental trees. North of Ontario the mountain range is San Gabriel, and the near-by peaks are buttresses of Mt. San Antonio. CHINO Alt., 513; Pop., 1000. Chino is centrally located on a ten-mile loop-line, with ter- minals at Pomona and Ontario. A rich agricultural section is tributary to it; and it has a large producing beet-sugar section. Declez Alt., 1022; N. O., 1958 m. Cucamonga Alt., 952; N. O., 1964 Location of granite quarry from miles, which the stone is being supplied Ailsa N. O., 195 7 miles, for San Pedro harbor making. WAYSIDE NOTES 63 BLOOMINGTON N. O. } 1953 miles; Alt., 1083. Near here is a great vineyard of many thousand acres. Northward are the orange groves of Rialto and Colton terrace. COLTON N. 0., 1948 miles; Alt., 965; Pop., 3000. Colton is the central figure in a famous circle, the segments of which are connected by lines of Southern Pacific Company. To the south, queenly Riverside, eight miles distant, north three miles to San Bernardino, east eight miles to Redlands, and against such rivalry bears itself bravely. To the north and east, towering above their buttressing satellites, may be seen the (usually snow-clad) ridge or back of Mt. San Gorgonio and the peak of Mt. San Bernardino. At Colton citrus fruit growing culminates in high success, it having been the traveler's companion from extreme northern borders of the State. RIVERSIDE Colton, 8 miles; Alt, 925; Pop., 12,000. On many accounts Riverside is a place delightful and in- structive to visit. The city itself is an orange grove; mar- velous avenues have been created, bordered by magnolias, peppers and palms, accented here and there by homes, repre- senting highest modern cultivation; and, stretching away from the city's center miles of distance at all points of the compass, ranks on ranks of fruit-bearing trees, orange and lemon groves in the lead, but leading only, for hardly can any earthly fruit be called for without response at Riverside; and with these, floral and architectural beauty, and the cheer- ful, social atmosphere that burnishes the golden. From the main line at Colton the transit of eight miles is but a step, and a right royal one. Southern Pacific Company's depot, in heart of the city, is an opal set in gold tourists should make inspection of it; and well worthy special mention the seven- mile Magnolia Avenue now traversed by luxurious electric cars, at small cost; the city point of departure, at entrance of new Glenwood Hotel, one block from Southern Pacific Com- pany's depot. On this model electric line, in the city suburbs, the general government has purchased a fine tract of land and created an Indian school. 64 SOUTHERN PACIFIC SAN BERNARDINO Colton, 3 miles; Alt., 975; Pop., 15,000. San Bernardino is achieved by a three-mile ride from Colton, or it may be inspected by a stop-over en route to or from Redlands. It is the oldest urban place in San Ber- nardino Valley, is seat of government for its namesake county, and in manufacturing, mercantile and banking interests stands well at the front. It is center of a valuable citrus and de- ciduous fruit section, and headquarters for tourists' visits to Squirrel Inn, Little Bear Valley, Harlem Hot Springs, Mid- way Springs and the famous Arrowhead Hot Springs, named by a Brobdignagian arrowhead painted by the hand of nature on the mountain side. The St. Charles and the Stewart Hotels are favored places of entertainment. Electric rail- ways run to the springs and neighboring towns. The South- ern Pacific has a line to Redlands. In the suburbs of Colton, shortly after leaving, the train passes a long bridge, spanning the dry bed of a watercourse rapidly growing up to tangles of brushwood. Before the advent of irrigation, this was Santa Ana River, with fountain head in San Bernardino Mountains. LOMA LINDA Alt., 1055; N. O., 1945 wiles. Immediately after crossing the Santa Ana beautiful Loma Linda, celebrated sanitarium, is to be seen to the west. Redlands Junction Alt., 1142; N.O., 1943 miles. Branch line of South- ern Pacific Company to Redlands. REDLANDS Redlands Junct., 3 miles; Alt. ,1350; Pop. ,10,000. From Colton this unique city, distant eight miles, may be visited, either by train over Southern Pacific Company's main line, via Redlands Junction, or by motor of same company, via the city of San Bernardino. Whichever route you take, you will be glad of it. In some sort, Redlands is an after-thought of Riverside. Orange-growing successes at the latter could hardly fail on the rich, chocolate-colored lands of this place. Smiley Heights is a suburban attraction of Redlands and a most restful and satisfying example of landscape gardening in its maturity. El Casco Alt., 2420; N. O., 1934 Brookside Alt., 1310; N. O., 1941 miles. miles. Hinda Alt, 2189; N. O., 1930 m. WAYSIDE NOTES 65 Mt. San Bernardino, at the north, usually snow-crowned, with 11,800 feet altitude, is seen from the cars, beginning as far west as Los Angeles, and will be seen until Indio is reached. Mt. San Gorgonio (popularly Gray Back) is companion to Mt. San Bernardino, with 12,600 feet altitude. BEAUMONT AT. O., 1925 miles; Alt., 2560. Beaumont covers the crest of San Gorgonio Pass a name given to a broad cleft from east to west, separating the San Bernardino Range, that occupies the skyline at the north, from the San Jacinto Range, that fills the field of southern vision. This pass, crowned by Beaumont, connects the val- ley of which Los Angeles is metropolis with the ancient sea- bed, on border of which Indio has been planted. BANNING N. O., 1919 miles; Alt., 2317; Pop., 1000. Banning in most respects is in harmony with Beaumont, with perhaps some advantage in fruit production. In the south is Mt. San Jacinto, altitude 10,800, its northern but- tresses closely skirted by the train as it passes on its east- ward mission. Mt. San Jacinto, in romance the scene of Alessandro's murder, in presence of Ramona, his wife. CABAZON N. O., 1913 miles; Alt., 1779. Fingal Alt., 1372; N. O., 1909 miles. Cabazon serves a useful railway purpose, and commem- orates an Indian tribe. WHITE WATER N. O., 1904 miles; Alt., 1126. Five miles westwardly from Palm Springs the train will cross a small, swiftly flowing musical stream, which has been able to name itself and the station "White Water." Nothing but "white water" here, but that is enough. It is a memory of old times, when these mountains at the north were sending vast rivers of ice to the lower plains. PALM SPRINGS N. O., 1898 miles; Alt., 584. This station, planted in the tf^0n Alt 345; N.O., 1891 m. drifting sands, on rainless fefe^, S %.$ rf % X ^ border of a thirsty plain, has responded to the gentle ministrations of White Water, the glacial stream from depths 66 SOUTHERN PACIFIC Rubidoux Drive, near Riverside, is famous for its scenery. of Mt. San Bernardino, and presents verdure and bloom and music of song birds to passing pilgrims. PALM VALLEY- Five miles to the southward of Palm Springs, enfolded in the granite walls of San Jacinto, shut in from contact with desert conditions, is a small, romantic valley called "Palm," because of its possession of a luxuriant grove of date palms in some long-by age ancestrally planted by intelligent hand, by whom and when? Certainly not by the improvident, thriftless, hand-to-mouth natives found here by the Spaniards in 1537; hardly by the ancestors of them. It has springs of water for drinking and domestic use of undoubted purity, and thermal waters for bathing that are health giving to most and a delight to all. The non-humidity of Palm Valley is a world's wonder. WAYSIDE NOTES 67 The beautiful "Glenwood" at Riverside is known as the Mission Hotel. Let it be remembered that complete saturation of the air by water is marked 100 per cent and absolute vaporless air by per cent; that 10 per cent is of rare occurrence, even in the arid places of Arabia. Not to locate a high humidity in- vidiously, it may be better to say the average humidity of the North Atlantic, as reported by the "Challenger," is 80 per cent. Now Palm Valley has registered as low as 9 per cent, with an average of 15 per cent only. Not much atmospheric water here for benefit of the thirsty pulmonary tubercle. Without moisture he cannot incubate. Its vineyards and orchards ripen a harvest more than thirty days in advance of the general season. INDIO N. O., 1875 niiles; Depression, 20; Pop., 200. Here are an excellent railway station, a superior hotel and an approved sanitarium, twenty feet below sea-level. Evi- dence that the ocean, and from geologic standpoint not so 68 SOUTHERN PACIFIC The valley from Smiley Heights, Redlands Italian in climate and setting. very long ago, covered the site of this station three fathoms deep, is conclusive. Its autograph remains upon the beach. Abundant water for railway and domestic use and for irriga- tion is obtained from artesian wells. Stimulated by water thus obtained, the desert about is fast becoming fruitful and dotted with homes of thrifty farmers. COACHELLA N. O., 1872 miles; Depression, 70 feet; Pop., 200. The principal feature at Coachella, as at Indio, is melon- growing, hundreds of carloads being shipped every season, to reach Eastern markets the first from any section. THERMAL N. 0., 1870 miles; Depression, 124 feet. Thermal also is a center of melon-growing activity. The entire Coachella Valley is fast being made to "blossom as the WAYSIDE NOTES 69 The San Bernardino Mountains from Redlands where golden oranges make a new Hesperides. rose," and presents the unique sight of successful agriculture below sea-level. Mortmere (Dead Sea) Dep., 251. Mecca Dep., 195; N. O., 1863 miles. N. O., 1858 miles. SALTON SEA N. O., 1850 miles; Depression, 253 feet. This is the title given this region by the Reclamation service. Their map for 1906 gives the water surface as 247 square miles, the break in the Colorado allowing the whole volume of the river to flow into the depression for nearly two years. Here fish are fed and caught from the moving train. Skillful engineering repaired the breach, and returned the river "to its old channel after enormous labor, and the har- nessed river is now serving the great canals of Imperial Valley. The railway skirts the shore for nearly sixty miles. Meantime the deposit of silt in precipitation will considerably raise the bottom of the great sink. 70 SOUTHERN PACIFIC LANDO N. O., 1826 miles; Depression, 225. Five miles eastwardly of this station the train leaves a remarkable depression the dry bed of an ancient sea. This Volcano station named itself through a spring of sulphurous mud and water, of temperature to suggest volcanic fires. In other parts of this great depression scientists have found mud springs, or solfateros, of incredible heat intensity. IMPERIAL JUNCTION TV. O., 1821 miles; Depression, . In prehistoric time this was an ocean beach. A branch line of railway extends from this station thirty miles south- erly to the town of Calexico at the international boundary. Brawley 18 miles. These towns are centers of settlement Imperial 27 miles! in the Imperial Valley, where the work of El Centra 31 miles, reclaiming the wondrously fertile soil from Calexico 4 o miles. thg con di t ion of desert is being done on a mammoth scale, here being the largest body of irrigable land in compact form in the United States, and in connection with an abundant supply of water. This valley is one of the future garden spots of California. A few years have wrought a great change in this part of the desert, and the success of irrigation will be an object lesson for many. Towns with street cars, electric lights and newspapers and a population of 10,000 energetic, enterprising and industrious people are here, the growth of less than ten years. The Imperial Valley is great in extent and rich in quality. For ages the Colorado has been busy making what we called a "desert," carrying down millions of tons yearly of the finest sediment, filling here an arm of the gulf, and spreading it out flat as a plain. When it was discovered that the desert was but a huge farm, rich in all elements of plant-life, and that the river which made it could be made to water it, the results were amazing. Such growth, both of plant and animal life, was hardly ever seen elsewhere. Tree seed came in with the water, and in 15 months grew to be 4 and 5 inches in diameter. Alfalfa made a growth of 6 to 8 inches during the month of January, and grapes from cuttings in 18 months bore clusters. Grapes ripen by the middle of June and are picked; ripe figs on the llth of November. The soil is immensely deep. When the flood cut down an ancient channel 82 feet deep, the melting alluvium was the same at WAYSIDE NOTES 71 the bottom as at the top, and those who know the valley best believe the soil-bed ranges anywhere from 50 to 1,000 feet deep. MAMMOTH N. O., 1804 miles; Depression, 257 feet. Mesquite Dep., 294; N. O., 1792 m. Ogilby Dep., 354; N. O., 1772 m. Glamis Dep., 331; N. O., 1790 m. Knob Dep., 285; N. O., 1766 m. The mountains at the north are the Chocolate, a spur or extension of the San Bernardino Range, containing many valuable mines of gold and silver. These stations are points of shipment for them. YUMA N. O., 1756 miles; Alt., 410; Pop., 2500. Yuma is a city with good commercial life, enjoying a large trade in connection with mining enterprises, and in fostering stock-raising and agriculture. It is well supplied with daily papers and has the con- veniences and luxuries of modern cultivation. Substantial blocks of brick and stone are occupied by the merchants and suitable provision is also made for educational purposes. Ample hotel accommodation is had at the Depot Eating House, situated on the very bank of the Colorado. Here seven hundred Yumas are now cultivating the arts of peace, and too well-informed ever again to display war paint; but they have a record in years long gone of biting the hands that fed them. On the west side of the river, and north from the train, a cluster of verandahed buildings may be seen, originally Fort Yuma, but now devoted to the higher and nobler purposes of education. The War Department turned them over to the Interior, and this established in them an important Indian school. The buildings have an airy and sightly elevation. Opposite to them across the river, and the northerly suburb of Yuma, is Arizona territorial prison. The turbid Colorado is crossed on a substantial bridge of steel, with draw on the Yuma side for passage of frequent steam-propelled vessels. The atmosphere is less desiccating than at Indio, or, for that matter, less than at any contiguous point away from the river. Standing upon the bridge, one is nearly always con- scious of an air current, conveying messages from the Gulf of California. Sixty-five miles to the north, a conspicuous, hat- I -s WAYSIDE NOTES 73 shaped peak is seen, on the Arizona side of the river, called Castle Dome. On the western or California side, the near-by mountains at the north are called Chocolate, and their conspicuous peak, Chimney. The Laguna Dam, twelve miles north of Yuma, is reached by a branch line. The dam (to be finished in 1908) will cost $2,000,000, and is the principal factor in the Government work of irrigation here under way. Many thousand acres will come "under the ditch," and be protected at the same time from the overflow of the great river. Everything points to great prosperity and beauty in and around Yuma, and it will be em- bowered in orchards of many varieties, in which the date palm may figure largely. Blaisdell Alt., 171; N. O., 1742 Adonde N. O., 1721 miles. North miles. Shipping point for valu- of Tacna, Adonde and Gila City able gold mine. the Castle Dome Range is seen, Gila City N. O., 1736 miles. and Gila Range at the south. The Tacna Alt., 325; N. O., 1714 miles. Gila River is within easy reach, Mohawk N. O., 1696 miles. The northerly of all stations _ from mountains at the south are the Yuma to Gila Bend, and is fre- Mohawk Range. quently in sight from passing train. Aztec Alt., 495; N. O., 1677 miles. Stanwix N. O., 1669 miles. The mountains northerly from Aztec are the "Eagle Tail," at the south Lumas Negras and Sierra of Cabeza Rita and Mohawk Range. SENTINEL ^V. O., 1664 miles; Alt., 688. Near Sentinel occurred the massacre of the Roys Oatman family by Tonto Apaches, while en route with an ox team from Independence, Mo., to California, February, 1851. From Sentinel, northerly, are the Big Horn Mountains; those at the south, Sierra Colorado: ESTRELLA N. O., 1616 miles; Alt., 1521. Painted Rock N. O., 1651 miles. Gila BendN. O., 1635 miles. Alt., 737- The increase of altitude at Estrella over that of Gila Bend will be noted. It amounts to 784 feet. The railway line here for a distance of twenty-five miles crosses a spur of the Maricopa Divide Range. 74 SOUTHERN PACIFIC Apricots are but one of the profitable industries of the Imperial Valley. MARICOPA N. O., 1592 miles; Alt., 1173. Northerly are the Santa Estrella Mountains and the Chim- neys; northwest, the White Mountains, and south an exten- sion of Maricopa Divide. Maricopa is junction point of Maricopa and Phoenix and Salt River Valley Railway. The distance to Phoenix is thirty-four miles, with romantic Tempe en route, and, by a branch line from Tempe, Mesa City ,can be visited. The interests involved are of such importance, there is ample reason for an inspection of Salt River Valley, with itinerary as follows: GILA RIVER Maricopa, 7 miles. The length of the bridge over this river, and of the approach to it, seem absurd when you look downward in search of water, and end the quest in search of dampness. Upon occasion there is water, but angel visits are quite as frequent. WAYSIDE NOTES 75 At Yuma, Indians will sell you bead work, symbolical and attractive in design. TEMPE Maricopa, 26 miles. It was a happy thought to start this place on the road to popular favor with suggestion that it emulates Thessalia in sylvan beauty and atmospheric delights; and, as you will find, the whole land is redolent of clover blossom and vocal of song birds. It has attracted to itself 'the normal school of Arizona, and has notable creameries and apiaries, and in- dustrial enterprises in large variety, with great breadth of fruitful orchards, groves and vineyards. SALT RIVER The priceless benefactor of the valley it names. Originally, more than three hundred and fifty years ago, by the earliest visiting Spaniards, it was called Rio Salado (salted river), and so it appears on some ancient maps. It and its tribu- taries have different sources the Salt born of the pine high- 76 SOUTHERN PACIFIC lands of northern and interior Arizona. The United States Government is constructing a retaining dam on Salt River and making a reservoir of Tonto Basin. This will insure a full irrigation for the entire Salt River Valley. Thousands of acres will be put under irrigation this year, 1908. PHGLNIX Maricopa, 35 miles. This progressive city is seat of government for Maricopa County and for the Territory of Arizona. It is centrally located in Salt River Valley, and surrounded by a wide reach of tributary country, as rich as Delta of the Nile. The land is fat, producing cereals and fruit, "corn and wine," responding to all demands. Phoenix is the metropolis of Arizona and the immediate and commercial and financial center of more than six hundred square miles of irrigable lands, than which the world contains none of higher possible productions. The region round about has become one of the great orange producing districts of the world none from the West reaches the Eastern market earlier. MESA CITVTcmpc, 7 miles. On return it will be well to take the divergent track at Tempe for a seven-mile run to Mesa City. This municipality was the pioneer work of the Mormons each holding intended to be a full block on the urban plat. The arrivals and de- partures of fifty years have subdivided some of these, but the city is specially bright and fragrant from bloom, and in no spot wanting for noontide shade. To return now to Maricopa and a continuance of our Sunset transcontinental trip. SWEETWATER Irrigation by canals from the Gila, near Florence, more than twenty miles distant, begins at Sweetwater, and will be noted in greater or less degree nearly twenty miles, to a point south of Arizola. CAS A GRANDE A 7 . O., 1571 miles; Alt., 1396. Special interest touches this point, as from here trips by stage are made to the ruins of Casa Grande (Chichilticale), sixteen miles distant, by a run of two hours northeasterly. WAYSIDE NOTES .77 The Colorado River near Yuma. An authority of note says: "Casa Grande is one of the most interesting remains of prehistoric ages to be found on the continent. The foundations of the ruins have recently been uncovered by the government. No Indians known to our history erected this pile. The country about Arizola (as well as that of Casa Grande) is irrigated by water drawn from the Gila, near Florence; the principal canal has a length of more than twenty miles, and the system includes an immense reservoir. TUCSON Los Angeles, 301 miles; Alt., 2390. Tucson and the Mission, nine miles distant, have a recorded history reaching to the year 1700. The place they occupy, however, was visited by Coronado and Niza one hundred and sixty years before that 1539-1540. Divine service has never died at San Xavier del Bac; continues to this day, but the Indians are not. Originally Tucson was pendant to the 78 - SOUTHERN PACIFIC Mission in church records called "Visita," a sort of supply ranch or farm for cereals and stock and recruiting field for neophytes. Now it is a well-built, opulent city, retaining some of its old-time architecture, with advantage to pic- turesque effect. The Territorial University is here, an agricultural experiment station and the land office for the district. It has fine churches, schools, business blocks, hotels and a sumptuous building for its public library. Tucson is well entitled to make strong claims for its own healthfulness, and for wondrous records made by near-by mountain resorts. The picturesque mountains at the north are Santa Catarina, and at the west, Sierra Tucson. A stream, Santa Cruz River, borders the city of Tucson, coming to it from Sonoran Mountains at the south. Mission San Xavier del Bac is on its bank, nine miles south of Tucson. The river echoed a tread of Spanish conquistadores as early as 1540. It sinks from sight shortly after leaving Tucson, and is reputed to flow underground to the Gila, near Maricopa, more than one hundred miles distant. Wilmot N. O., 1499 miles. important shipping point for cop- Esmond N. O., 1492 miles. per and other minerals, and also VailN. O., 1487 miles. Vail is an for cattle. PANTANO N. O,, 1478 miles; Alt., 3536. The stream that borders Pantano, and was crossed by you shortly before reaching that station, is called the Cienega, and reaches the San Pedro at the north through Turkey Creek, finally to become an affluent of the Gila. The mountains westerly from Pantano are the Santa Catarina, and southerly the Santa 'Rita. Kadmon N. O., 1472 miles. Chamois N. O., 1462 miles. Mescal N. O., 1467 miles. BENSON N. O., 1458 miles; Alt., 3578. The town is less noted for its architecture and commercial life than for connection by rail of Southern Pacific branch with Nogales, and thence (by Sonora Railway branch) with Guaymas on the Gulf of California, via Hermosillp; and also by another line, the Arizona and Southeastern Railroad, with Bisbee, the city owned by the celebrated Copper Queen Company, distant fifty-five miles. Mountains to the north are WAYSIDE NOTES 79 Caliuro Range and El Rincon; at the south, the Whetstone Range. From Guaymas, rapid progress is being made southward on the line down the west coast of Mexico and Guadalajara. Stations on Branch Line Benson to Nogales Fairbanks Benson, 19 miles. Crittenden Benson, 59 miles. Huachuca Benson, 30 miles. Fort Patagonia Benson, 62 miles. Huachuca is near this station. NOGALES Benson, 89 miles; Alt., 3863. The name of this city leaves a pleasant, nutty flavor on the tongue and of right, since it is the Spanish word for the walnut trees that bear them. More than ordinarily pictur- esque is this walnut grove town, with fine public buildings and well-constructed business blocks. The residences upon the rising grounds above the commercial streets are beautiful in architecture -and many colored half-tone tints. Hotel Montezuma is well conducted and homelike. Continuing This Benson-Guaymas Line to Terminal of Sonora Railway (Ltd.) Carbo Benson, 153 miles. Ortiz Benson, 323 miles. Hermosillo Benson, 263 miles. Guaymas Benson, 353 miles. Torres Benson, 289 miles. This branch is being built along the rich, almost unknown, west coast country of Mexico to Guadalajara. SAN PEDRO RIVER Resuming the main line and leaving Benson, the rail spans a watercourse that has a history, although its volume is insignificant. This is the San Pedro; rising in the mountains of Sonora at the south, it pursues a devious course northerly, and empties into the Gila. It was along the banks of this river and those of its birth- place twin, the Santa. Cruz, met by you at Tucson, that the military and exploring parties of 1540, under Coronado and others, coming from Mexico, sought to achieve Cibola. DRAGOON- -/V. 0., 1437 miles; Alt, 4614. Caliuro Range at the north and Dragoon at the south. WAYSIDE NOTES 81 COCHISE N. O., 1427 miles; Alt., 4222. Cochise is junction point of branch line to celebrated Pierce mining district, shipping gold, silver and copper pro- ductions. Dragoon Mountains at the south. Between Cochise and Willcox the train traverses a notable alkali flat all that remains of a former lake where may be seen the mirage every sunny day. WILLCOX N. O., 1416 miles; Alt., 4164. Southwesterly from Willcox can be seen the rich metal- producing Dragoon Mountains. In the cattle world as well as in the mineral, Willcox occupies large space. Its herds range over a bovine em- pire, and upon occasion cones and cubes and ingots of copper and the precious metals obstruct pedestrianism. Stage to Fort Grant, thirty miles. RAILROAD PASS N. O., 1408 miles. The small watercourse near here is called Dos Cabesas Creek; mountains at the north, Pinaleno Range, these include Mount Graham and Fort Grant; at the south the Chiricahua range. To the south, the double peak is Dos Cabesas, one of the landmarks from frontier days. BOWIE N. O., 1892 miles; Alt., S759- Bowie is junction point of Gila Valley, Globe and Northern Railway, extending northerly through the rich Gila Valley to copper mining Globe, 124 miles away. This latter metal product is of the richest. Northerly from Bowie is the Pinaleno Range, and at the south the Chirichuas. These and the neighboring Dragoon Mountains for many years were the resorts of Cochise and his blood-thirsty followers. The traveler will be glad to know a well-kept hotel and eating-house awaits him at Bowie. Bowie to Globe, by Gila Valley, Globe and Northern Railway Solomon Bowie, 35 miles. Rice Bowie, 105 miles. Indian Safford Bowie, 40 miles. school of great magnitude. Thatcher Bowie, 43 miles. Globe Bowie, 124 miles. Famous Fort Thomas Bowie, 62 miles. center of copper and other mining. Geronimo Bowie, 68 miles. San Carlos Bowie, 94 miles. In- dian school of note. 82 - SOUTHERN PACIFIC SIMON N. O., 1376 miles; Alt., 3609. The striking mountain range at the south is Chiricahua. It requires but little imagination at a favorable point of view to see outlines of a recumbent giant, resting upon the moun- tain crest. This is monument of Cochise, the fiercest of Apache chieftains. At the north are Peloncillo Mountains. SAUZ RIVER When the lower levels are reached, after passing San Simon, evidences will be abundant that upon occasion waters run wild across the railway track. This is bed of Sauz River. Of ancient date had right of way, and now and again struggles to enforce it. STEINS N. 0., 1361 miles; Alt., 4351. Pyramid Mountains at the south, Steins Pass is the first station in New Mexico. Ascending the grade eastward going, a short distance before arriving at Grants Pass, a way- side legend, on opposite sides, will read "Arizona-New Mexico." Pyra N. O., 1347 miles. Named for Pyramid Mountains at the south. LORDSBURG A . O., 1340 miles; Alt., 4245. The mountains at the north are Burro, and at the south, Pyramid. From Lordsburg the Arizona and New Mexico Railway line extends to the copper mines at Clifton and Morenci. In railway operating it is a busy line of industry, and its tributary country, in mines and pasturage, needs reasonable development only to make this a feature of New Mexico's progress. Lisbon N. O., 1332 miles. Gage Alt., 4488; N. O., 1302 miles. Separ Alt., 4503; N. O., 1323 South of Tunis and Gage are miles. Victoria Mountains. They con- North are Burro Mountains and tain silver deposits awaiting ap- south Sierra de las Animas and preciatiort of that metal before Coyote Peak in the Hahcita Mts. exploitation. Wilna N. O., 1311 miles. Tunis N. O., 1290 miles. DEMING N. O., 1282 miles; Alt., 4334. The Mimbre Range of mountains lies north of Deming and south are Red Mountain and Florida Peak. Deming is a WAYSIDE NOTES 83 Mission San Xavier where divine service has been perpetual. thriving city, with valuable resources in mines and cattle. The El Paso and Southwestern Railway connects Deming with Sonora. It is also the terminal point of the Santa Fe from Rincon on the north and has a branch line to Silver City, 48 miles distant. The Mimbres River is here an under- ground stream, and some irrigation is conducted from artesian wells. Deming ships many cattle, and hay from the plains is a source of profit. RIO GRANDE N. O., 1197 miles. This historic stream, flowing the mountains of Colorado and onward, at El Paso becoming a living aqueous line be- tween Republics of United States and Mexico, shows but traces of the broad and deep current that belongs to it by birthright. At all points since it left its cradle, eager hands have seized and appropriated its substances, and now, at this crossing, a superb steel bridge seems almost superfluous. 84 SOUTHERN PACIFIC Hardly more than dampness has been left to its bed, and the legal holding may be covered by railway term "right of way." Give respectful salute to it; impoverished that many might be fed. On leaving the bridge an underlying line of railway may be crossed. This is the Santa Fe, from the north. To the south is Mexico, with housetops and old Mission of Ciudad Juarez. When this church was constructed by labor of Indian neophytes, both sides the Rio Grande were Paso del Norte; but now, that river being boundary line between United States and Mexico, with becoming modesty the Mexi- cans concede "El Paso" to our city at the northerly side, and the south has become Ciudad Juarez, in honor of its patriot president. Time permitting, by all means take a seat in elec- tric car and visit Old Mexico. See a fair sample of poco tiempo and manana; fail not of the church, its worship and the adjuncts of it in no essential changed since its first incense arose, three hundred years ago. EL PASO N. O., 1194 miles; Alt., 3713; Pop., 45,000. El Paso, formerly Paso del Norte, the pass of the north, going from Old Mexico to New, was visited early by ad- venturous Ofiatto, a Spanish commander, with a large party, who speaks of it, on date fourth of May, 1598. El Paso has a virile business life, its people are aggressive, wide-awake, ready to seize upon favorable opportunities and make the most of what Providence awards. There are many noble public buildings, United States custom house and court buildings, hospitals, churches, banks and mercantile houses and hotels. Notable among its enterprises are the mammoth smelting works in western suburbs. It is the western terminus of Texas and Pacific Railway and eastern of El Paso and Southwestern. Is reached by Chicago, Rock Island and Texas, and by Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe from the north, and Mexican Central from the south, and by Rio Grande, Sierra Madre and Pacific Rail- way from the gold placers of the Yaqui, and connected with both Atlantic and Pacific worlds by lines of Southern Pacific Company. Eastward from El Paso the railway time is Central, and WAYSIDE NOTES 85 Castle Canyon, a picturesque bit of Texas scenery. two hours faster than Pacific, which "rules the rail" out of San Francisco to El Paso. Northeasterly the mountains are Victoria, in Sierra Hueco Range, and those more distant, respectively called Jarrilla, Sacramento and Guadalupe; Mountains. Y si eta Alt., 3664; N. O., 1180 miles. Ysleta is one of the oldest towns in America, settled in 1649 by offshoot of Christian Indians from Ysleta Pueblo, 300 miles up Rio Grande. Interesting old Mis- sion Church to the south; Pop. 2000. and northerly, the Organ Alfalfa Alt., 3689; N. O., 1186 miles. Belen Alt., 3645; N. O., 1176 miles. San Elizario Alt, 3630; N. O., 1170 miles; Pop. 800. Fabens Alt., 3614; N. O., 1163 miles. Iser N. O., 1147 miles; Pop., 800. FORT HANCOCK AT. O., 1139 miles; Alt., 35^9- The military post called Fort Hancock is near the bank of Rio Grande, about one mile south of the station, but plainly visible. The elevated bluff on the Mexican side of the river 86 SOUTHERN PACIFIC is beautifully marked by weathering of crystalline strata, that when plastic, under pressure, were forced into a zigzag or chevron formation called dancette. Madden N. O., 1129 miles. Small N. O., 1116 miles. Finlay Alt., 3945; N. O., 11:22 miles. MALONE N. O., 1115 miles; Alt., 3945. Grade necessities at Malone have created some beautiful horseshoe curves, with sentimental suggestions of good luck to those who traverse them. Lasca N. O., 1108 miles. Etholen N. O., 1104 miles. SIERRA BLANC A N. O., noo miles; Alt., 4512. . Sierra Blanca marks the junction of Texas and Pacific from its northern terminal at Texarkana, and is ninety-three miles from El Paso. The name was suggested by a singularly white mountain in the vicinity, clothed in drab, but leaning to variety in lines of bright red where the "quaker" has been washed away by some down-flowing current. At various points on the line between Sierra Blanca and Marfa, prairie dogs will be abundantly seen, and, not infrequently, bands of antelope also. Mountains south of Sierra Blanca are Quit- man and the Sierra Blanca, and northerly Carizo Mountains, and in the middle distance Sierra del Diablo, and far away the Guadalupe Range. Grayton N. O., 1090 miles. Lobo N. O., 1061 miles. Torbert N. O., 1084 miles. Volga N. O., 1053 miles. Dalberg Alt., 4188; N. O., 1072 Chispa Alt., 4082; N. O., 1047 miles. miles. Collado N. O., 1067 miles. Wendell N. O., 1039 miles. Fay Alt., 4013; N. O., 1063 miles. VALENTINE N. O,, 1031 miles; Alt., 4424. The elevated grazing plains occupied by Valentine are full of scenic interest, covered by a brown carpet of sustaining grass, here and there large herds of cattle, and frequently exciting bands of antelope; and, for joy of the youngsters, colonies of prairie dogs, burrowing within the lines of railway reservation even, as asking, "Who's afraid?" Quebec N. O., 1023 miles. A small Ryan Alt., 4746; N. O., 1015 miles. stream at Quebec is called Live Aragon N. O., 1005 miles. Oak Creek.' WAYSIDE NOTES 87 MARFA A r . O., 996 miles; Alt., 4692; Pop., 1050. FORT DAVIS The mountains northerly are Sierra del Muerte and Apache; in the heart of them is Fort Davis, on Pine Creek, an affluent of the Pecos. For large game, bear and mountain lions or panthers, del Muerto and Apache are famous. The most noted peak is Livermore, rising to 8332 feet elevation. These ranges are well wooded, and offer rare sport to huntsmen. Marfa is a place of more than ordinary interest; is seat of justice for Presidio County; has a courthouse that might grace a metropolis. The surrounding country is fine grazing land. Between Marfa and the Sierra, a stream called Rock Creek flows for a short distance eastwardly and then to the south, crosses the railway line and empties into Rio Grande. The elevation gives it a climate of perennial delight; especially so to denizens of the Gulf Coast, and to these it should have value above price. An abundance of game is to be found in the mountain ravines, and indeed on the plains, with the reasonable cer- tainty of bagging quail, antelope and wolves, and bear in the mountains. Much of the curative power of this region is no doubt due to outdoor life and to exercise on horseback. There is something higher than a lover's appeal in 'We'll chase the antelope over the plain." Nopal N. O., 991 miles. PAISANO N. O., 983 miles; Alt., 5082. Toronto N. O., 976 miles. Altuda N. O., 955 miles. Alpine' Alt., 4485; N. O., 970 miles. Lenox N. O., 948 miles. Strobel N. O., 963 miles. This is the summit of the Sunset Route. Paisano marks the highest reach of this transcontinental line. MARATHON N. O., 939 miles; Alt., 4043; Pop., 500. At this elevation the summer ^arm^-N. 0,93 1 miles. dimate ap p rO aches perfection, and under influence of ocean air from the Gulf its winters are of the mildest. WAYSIDE NOTES 89 RAYMOND N. O., 923 miles; Alt., 3883. Southerly the mountains are Horsehead Hills; north, are spurs of Sierras del Muerte and Apache. Taber N. O., 915 miles. Longfellow Alt., 3274; N. O., 895 Maxcn N. O., 911 miles. miles. Rosenfeld N. O., 904 miles. Emerson N. O., 887 miles. SANDERSON N. O., 879 miles; Alt., 2780; Pop., 650. Sanderson marks the bounds of a SSSS^VafSSk run by freight crews, and place of change for passenger train engines. Mountains northward are Sierras del Muerte, and in the extreme distance, Sierra Charette. Dryden Alt, 2109; N. O., 858 Thurston'N. O., 851 miles, miles. Wat kins N. O., 844 miles. LOZIER N. O., 834 miles; Alt., 1535. Travelers will note the continuous charm of mountain air on all these popular table-lands. The mountains in the south are Sierras de los Burros; northerly in distance Sierra Charette. Samuels N. O., 826 miles. Langtry Alt., 1321; N. O., 806 Osman N. O., 817 miles. miles. Shumla Alt., 1418; N. O., 794 miles. PECOS RIVER This river reaches up into New Mexico and disputes with the Canadian for its drainage. It empties into Rio Grande. VIADUCT- N. O.,787 miles; Alt., 1016. At Viaduct is a wondrous steel bridge, spanning the Pecos, the extreme length of it 2184 feet and elevation above the river bed 321 feet. This is one of the great railway bridges of the world, airy and graceful, but solid as a rock. COMSTOCK N. O., 777 miles; Alt., 1556. Castle Canon offers scenic attraction of Castle Rocks, where sand-blast and. water have carved \\\$ cliff into fantastic castle-like form. 90 SOUTHERN PACIFIC DEVIL'S RIVER N. 0., 756 miles. This is an unusually beautiful, romantic river, clear as crystal, and musical with liquid notes, as it finds its way over boulder and pebble, between the verdant banks. Across the Rio Grande, along which the train runs a few miles in scenic canon, where huge rocks overhang, the mountains are called Los Arboles (suggesting woodland). McKees N. O., 750 miles. DEL RIO N. O., 741 miles; Alt., 954; Pop., 7000. Del Rio is in very close contact with the Rio Grande, which perhaps suggested the name. A small stream that pays tribute to urban happiness at Del Rio is called Sycamore, shortly to unite with Rio Grande. The region is one of great promise and the rich lands are filling up with settlers. Be- yond Del Rio we enter a great cattle-raising district. Johnstone N. O., 733 miles. Amanda N. O., 727 miles. STAND ART N. O., 723 miles; Alt., 1054. The small river at Standart is called Piedra Pinto, and is tributary of Rio Grande. Pinto N. O., 717 miles. Elm Creek Is a small stream at Kinney N. O., 712 miles. Spofford. It is tributary to , Nueces. SPOFFORD N. O., 705 miles; Alt., 1015; Pop., 350. AnacachoN. O., 697 miles. At Spofford, connection is Waldo N. O., 688 miles made by Eagle Pass branch Cline-- Alt. ,1007; N. O., 682 miles. w j t h Mexican International Railway for City of Mexico and intermediates. It is in great request for side trips to Aztec wonders. NUECES AT. O., 670 miles; Alt., 942. Nueces is a trading center for grazing and agricultural dis- trict. Nueces River empties into Corpus Christi Bay. This river has frequent mention in history of Mexico and Texas. WAYSIDE NOTES 91 A glimpse of El Paso on the border-line of Mexico and the United States. UVALDE N. O., 664 miles; Alt., 930; Pop., 4000. Uvalde is an influential county town and center for wide area of stock-raising and agricultural country. Is center of the bee industry, and angora goats are extensively raised. LEONA RIVER Ange N. O., 659 miles. Chatfield N. O., 653 miles. Near Chatfield is Rio Frio, a tributary of the Nueces. Yucca N. O., 647 miles. Is near Uvalde. In common with most of the streams westward of the San Anto- nio, it is tributary of Nueces, through Rio Frio. SABINAL N. O., 642 miles; Alt., 936. Near Sabinal is a small stream, a branch *co-N.O., 635 mile* ofRioFria 92 SOUTHERN PACIFIC In Texas, down by the Rio Grande, near El Paso. D'HANIS N. O., 630 miles; Alt., 888; Pop., 3000. D'Hanis is a thriving town of much local value. The small stream near to it westerly is Seco Creek, an affluent of the Nueces, through Rio Frio. Hondo Creek is an affluent of Nueces, through the Rio Frio. Hondo Alt., 900; N. O., 621 miles. Dunlay Alt., 1008; N. O., 611 miles. Noonan N. O., 604 miles. Lacoste Alt., 730; N. O., 597 miles. Macdona N. O., 589 miles. I die wild N. O., 594 miles. Withers N. O., 581 miles. Alazan N. O., 576 miles. SAN ANTONIO N. O., 572 miles; Alt., 686; Pop., 105,000. San Antonio is distinguished for many excellences; the area of an empire is tributary to it in live stock, cotton and general farm produce; and with a most salubrious climate, WAYSIDE NOTES 93 i The slender, strong bridge that spans the Pecos. Here is located the largest military post in the United States, Fort Sam Houston, and the famed Hot Sulphur Well and Hotel with hundreds of cures to its credit. Hence, rail- ways radiate to all point of the compass. Northerly it has International and Great Northern and Missouri, Kansas and Texas; southerly and as well to central Texas, San Antonio and Aransas Pass Railway; but its most important line is that of Sunset Route, which, in its new Union Station, has here one of the finest passenger stations in America and which connects with all the world through San Francisco on the Pacific and New Orleans at the east. The city is watered by San Antonio River, and some small tributaries, including the Salado. There are twenty-one parks, several hot sulphur wells and seven large hotels. San Antonio cannot be so engrossed in its present glories as to forget that it holds the Alamo. Historic and patriotic interest largely centers in its im- 94 SOUTHERN PACIFIC mortal Alamo. In this semi-military church, during the war with Mexico by Texas for its independence in March, 1836, 182 citizen soldiers were besieged by Santa Ana in command of 5,000 Mexican regulars. At an early day a retreat might have been made with some losses, but the heroic band be- lieved their death would serve their country better than ignoble flight; and it will be noted that while their number originally was but 150, yet, during the siege thirty-two others fought their way in to share the closing massacre. At the end of eleven days the sacrifice was completed all died! Travis, the commander, fell at his post of duty, on the way; Colonel Bowie in bed, so sick he could not rise to receive the bayo- net thrust of the foe but that was needless; he was mur- dered where he lay. David Crockett died behind a rampart of assailants he had slain. There was no chivalrous recog- nition of valor; the last defender died. One woman, with a young child, and a negro servant, were left to tell the tale. On the monument Texas has inscribed "Thermopylae had its messenger of defeat; the Alamo had none." It is not unpleasant to know this holocaust served its pur- pose to "fire the heart" of patriotism, and, shortly after, the Lone Star waved in triumph. Kirby N. O., 564 miles. Marion Alt., 640; N. O., 548 miles. Converse Alt., 717; N. O., 558 m. Hilda N. O., 542 miles. SEGUIN N. O., 536 miles; Alt., 599; Pop., 3700. This attractive city is about one mile south of the station. It deals largely in cotton, and in live stock of superior grade. Seguin has water power possibilities that could make it one of the principal manufacturing centers of Texas. Contiguous to the city are falls of the Guadalupe River untold wealth, literally running to waste. KINGSBURY N. O., 526 miles; Alt., 613. Sullivan N. O., 523 miles. LULING N. O., 515 miles; Alt., 416; Pop., 2500. Luling is a very attractive, progressive city, having enter- prise as well as capital. It deals heavily in cotton, produced in a rich tributary country. The city is watered and drained by an affluent of Guadalupe River. The Sunset Route bisects WAYSIDE NOTES 95 the city, bringing commerce and the transportation side of it into close contact. San Antonio and Aransas Pass Railway is also in Luling. The nights are made luminous by won- drous firefly displays. HARWOOD AT. O., 506 miles; Alt., 460. Harwood is terminal of a twelve- ^N.O, e so. miles. e branch line to Gonzales, where it connects with San Anto- nio and Aransas Pass Railway for southern Texas and the Gulf. WAELDER N. O., 493 miles; Alt., 375; Pop., 2000. Waelder is in proper enjoyment of much local pride. Its enterprise reaches every legitimate channel of business and deserves success. FLATONIA -AT. O., 481 miles; Alt., 461; Pop., 2700. Flatonia is an active manufacturing and commercial city, with an arm of San Antonio and Aransas Pass Railway, in addition to transcontinental lines of the Sunset Route, to foster its prosperity. The San Antonio and Aransas Pass reaches northerly to valuable tributary fields, and, as well, to ports on the Gulf. Engle N. O., 475 miles. SCHULENBERG N. 0., 469 miles; Alt., 352; Pop., 2364. Schulenberg is planted on pleasant rolling ground, enjoys good commercial life, and has an excellent railway eating- house. WEIMAR N. O., 461 miles; Alt., 416; Pop., 2710. Weimar is a place of local interest. Its name, and also those of Schulenberg and Waelder, yet to be noted, speak of pious, fatherland memories by their founders. Between Weimar and Schulenberg the Navidad River is crossed. It reaches Lavaca Bay. BORDEN A r . O., 455 miles; Alt., 301. The Alamo where brave Americans met death but not defeat. WAYSIDE NOTES 97 GLIDDEN N. O., 449 miles; Alt., 242. Glidden is essentially a railroad town, and, therefore, wide awake. On all hands is heard the busy hum of profitable industry. A branch railway connects it with La Grange, northerly. COLUMBUS N. O., 446 miles; Alt., 209; Pop., 2100. Columbus is a place of more than average urban value. Large mercantile and manufacturing interests are fostered by it, and by branch railway with one terminal at Glidden it has access to La Grange at the north. It is noted for its beautiful live oaks. COLORADO RIVER OF TEXAS This large stream takes its rise in Northern Texas, in close relation to Pecos River and the upper waters of the Brazos, and empties into Matagorda Bay. Smith Junction N. O., 445 miles. Alleyton N. O., 442 miles. Has branch railway connection Ramsey N. O., 435 miles, with La Grange at the north. EAGLE LAKE TV. O., 431 miles; Alt., 179; Pop., 2600. This pleasant town has a most inviting appearance, and is in possession of present prosperity, with an assured future. In addition to the through transcontinental line of the Sun- set Route, it has San Antonio and Aransas Pass and the Santa Fe railways, giving direct access to all parts of the State. Here is fine rice land. LISSIE N. 0., 423 miles; Alt., 162. EAST BERNARD N. O., 413 miles; Alt., 131. Matin N. Q ? 4IO m iies. Randon N. O., 404 miles. ROSENBERG N.. 0., 397 miles; Alt., no; Pop., 2000. Rosenberg is a railway junction city. By the Gulf, West- ern Texas and Pacific, and the New York, Texas and Mexi- can Railways, it reaches Victoria, Cuero and Port Lavaca, and has northerly outlet over Gulf Coast and Santa Fe, and is connected with all the world by the transcontinental line of the Sunset Route. 98 SOUTHERN PACIFIC The Alamo Plaza, San Antonio. RICHMOND N. O., 394 miles; Alt., 96; Pop., 1920. Richmond is a place of business activity; its natural advan- tages developing local pride and public spirit. BRAZOS RIVER N. O., 393 miles. This famous river is crossed between Sartartia and Rich- mond. It bears drainage from points in close contact with Red River in northern Texas, and ends its beneficent life in Gulf of Mexico. SARTARTIA N. O., 387 miles; Alt., 82. A large area of rich river bottom land is devoted to sugar- cane cultivation at this place with gratifying success, and the largest sugar-cane factory in the South. The "bone black" process is used in refining the sugar. WAYSIDE NOTES 99 Trees bearded with Spanish moss in Brackenridge Park, San Antonio. SUGARLAND N. O., 386 miles; Alt., 82. Stafford N. O., 386 miles. Stella Alt., 63; N. O.; 372 miles. Missouri City Alt, 92; N. O., 380 Tewena N. O., 365 miles. miles. Chancy Junction N. O., 363 miles. Lotus N. O., 377 miles. HOUSTON N. O., 362 miles; Alt., 64; Pop., 92,000. Houston is a great city. It is the commercial and railway metropolis of Texas, made so by the energy of its merchants and manufacturers and the enterprise of railway construction, relying upon the future for reward. The most ambitious wishes of its business men have been met by railway lines extending to every possible mart of value. The seaport is Galveston, by rail, fifty-three miles south. Its railways number sixteen, in operation and under con- struction, which show the magnitude of this interest. These include San Antonio and Aransas Pass, Houston and Texas Central, International and Great Northern and the transcon- 100 SOUTHERN PACIFIC Texas has many picturesque watercourses. tinental line of the Sunset Route, New Orleans to San Francisco. The city is opulent, well built, progressive, and has an assured future, the reward of industry and enterprise. GALVESTON Houston, 53 miles; Pop., 43,000. Galveston will fill the dreams of the Middle-West for a deep-sea harbor on the Gulf. For many years enterprising capital has awaited a fair opportunity to inaugurate and com- plete the works needful to make this a seaport equal to pros- pective demands of commerce that shall pass through its gates. The initial steps have been taken and success is cer- tain, as the general government has appropriated $3,000.000 for a deep-water harbor. The largest seagoing vessels find no difficulty in entering the 31-foot channel. To this end extensive ocean steamship docks have been constructed and WAYSIDE NOTES 101 Houston's main business artery. Galveston can handle an immense ocean traffic. Returning now to main line. Green's N. O., 353 miles. Sheldon Alt., 59; N. O., 345 miles. Fauna N. O., 349 \niles. SAN JACINTO RIVER N. O., 344 miles. This river, that serves to per- petuate the memory of a bat- tle that wrought the independ- ence of Texas, empties into the Gulf of Mexico at Trinity Bay. "Remember the Alamo! " the attack was made and an overwhelming victory secured. LIBERTY N. O., 321 miles; Alt., 41; Pop., 2,000. At Liberty the historic Trinity is crossed. It rises in north- ern Texas and empties into an eastern arm of Galveston Bay called Trinity Bay. On its banks the chivalrous Sieur de la Salle was treacherously murdered by his companions in 1687. Crosby N. O., 341 miles. Walley N. O., 334 miles. Stilson N. O., 330 miles. Dayton Alt., 92; N. O., 327 miles. 102 SOUTHERN PACIFIC He was leader of a movement by France to wrest this Texas region from Spain. The party came in several vessels, direct from France, but, by navigating, mischance or treachery, failed to find the mouth of the Mississippi and was wrecked on the coast of Texas. Raywood N. O., 313 miles. Devers N. O., 308 miles. Ames N. O., 310 miles. Felicia N. O., 303 miles. NOME AT. O., 298 miles; Alt., 54. Nome is the junction point of a branch line to Sour Lake. SOUR LAKE Nine miles from Nome, covered by branch railway, Sour Lake and the Thermal Springs tributary to it are reached. This resort for many generations has enjoyed a great popu- larity for curative properties. Its waters are distinctly spur, and their use as a beverage, and for bathing, usually gives speedy cure to cutaneous and many other diseases. The acid origin is no doubt sulphurous. Near at hand an oil field, similar to that at Beaumont, has been revealed, and commercial impor- tance is added to its hygienic and sanitary values. China N. O., 293 miles. Amelia N. O., 284 miles. Pine Island N. O., 288 miles. BEAUMONT N. O., 278 miles; Alt., 32; Pop., 32,000. In transportation way, Beaumont relies upon the transcon- tinental line of the Sunset Route, but has navigable relations with the Gulf through Neches River, and has connections southward also by Texas and New Orleans Railway, thirty miles to Sabine Pass, and by same line northerly 289 miles to Dallas. The great lumber regions tributary to Beaumont lie at the foundation of its prosperity, and it hardly needed the dis- covery of an underlying reservoir of oil, that promises to be exhaustless. Here are large rice mills. NECHES RIVER AT. O. t 277 miles. This river, also historic comes to the south, with drainage from Northern Texas. It empties into Sabine Lake and Gulf of Mexico. Tulane N. O., 262 miles. The rail- Diana N. O., 272 miles. way in vicinity of Tulane and Terry N. O., 268 miles. Ferry crosses arms of Sabine Lake. WAYSIDE NOTES 103 ORANGE N. O., 256 miles; Alt,, 21; Pop., 8500. At Orange the railway line makes a sharp turn northward, parallel with the Sabine, until Echo is reached, at a distance of about six miles. Orange is well situated on this navigable river, and in close contact with an immense area of valuable timber. The lumber output is so large the figures seem misleading. This city is justly credited with public spirit, refinement and wealth, and has been a resort of some note for years. It now has a fine modern hotel. Echo N. O., 251 miles. This station is the last one in Texas. SABINE RIVER N. O., 250 miles. This historic river, from its mouth in Sabine Lake at Gulf of Mexico to a point contiguous to Logansport, a short dis- tance southerly from Shreveport, is boundary line between Louisiana and Texas. Toomey N. O., 247 miles. Edgerly Alt., 33; N. O., 238 miles. Vinton N. O., 243 miles. SULPHUR N. 0., 230 miles. For years it was known a sulphur bed existed here, and , many efforts were fruitlessly made to reach it; failing all of them because of superimposed quicksand. The mines re- mained idle for a number of years and their development was finally undertaken successfully. The sulphur being in a solid state, it is melted by forcing super-heated steam into it through iron pipes, and the melted sulphur is drawn up and emptied into great wooden vats where it solidifies as it cools. The average daily shipment is fifteen cars. At last, how- ever, wells were driven to it, the tubing excluding the sand and exposing the sulphur to control. CALCASIEU RIVER Famed Calcasieu River is here Westlake-N. O., 223 miles. crossed by th(? train Its headwaters are in the Red River country, also birthplace of Vermillion and Teche. The Calcasieu feeds lake of the same name, and thence to Gulf of Mexico. A New Orleans courtyard, undisturbed from the days of French possession. WAYSIDE NOTES 105 LAKE CHARLES N. 0., 220 miles. Lake Charles as watering place and popular resort, pos- sesses many attractions, and makes the lakes and rivers pay rich tribute to cultivated tastes. Its social reputation is of the highest and extends over a wide area of Louisiana and Texas. A branch of the Kansas City Southern Railway leads north- erly from Lake Charles to De Quincey and Louisiana, West- ern and St. Louis, Watkins & Gulf Railways. Here are large rice and saw mills. CMoeN. O., 213 miles. BfiDCTOft LlbtftTj IOWA N. 0., 208 miles. The St. Louis, Watkins and Gulf Railway, with terminals at Lake Charles and Alexandria, crosses the line of the Sun- set Route at Iowa. Lacassine N. O., 202 miles. The small stream is western fork of Bayou Lacassine. WELSH N. O., 197 miles; Alt., 32. , ~ , ~ .. Welsh, in all respects, is in harmony R M ^-N.O.,.9 2 m,les. > brought to redeem this region from waste. The beneficial work is being done with rice cultivation as the foundation of general prosperity. Its small stream is eastern fork of Bayou Lacassine. JENNINGS N. O., 187 miles. Jennings draws heavy tribute from rice cultivation and is progressive and prosperous. It lies within the oil field and has a large oil refinery. For years there was maintained here an earthen tank which contained a million barrels of oil awaiting shipment. MERMENTAU N. O., 182 miles; Alt., 25. Mermentau recalls Lafitte, the Midland N. O., 176 miles. P,Vof<* onH AraHian rnmanrp A1- EstherwoodN. O., 174 miles. Vittte, ana Acadian ready we have traversed much of it, and more is to follow as we cross the Calcasieu and other classic streams. The country now, as one hundred years ago, invites to aquatic exercises and sports. Everywhere are 106 SOUTHERN PACIFIC floating the glossy varnished lily pads; and floral stars of purest white dispute the verdant leafage; water-loving plants spread their fronds for inspection and admiration. With these the whole field of vision during the night is aflame with fireflies; the boom of the bittern breaks the silence, and the saurian answers with thorough-bass, frogs fill all the oc- taves, until the higher notes are reached by katydid and strident cicada. Across the twilight firmament heavy flying pelicans are seen bearing the fish they have caught to fledglings in the distant nest. CROWLEY N. O., 168 miles; Alt., 32. Rayne Alt., 32; N. O., 162 miles. Scott N. O., 151 miles. The small Duson N. O., 155 miles. watercourse here is Conlee-Kinney, an affluent of Vermillion River. Crowley is an active growing city, the seat of government for tributary country, and is the center of a promising rice cultivation. Sugar, rice and cotton are produced at Scott, Duson and Rayne; added to these, large interests are de- voted to cattle-raising and general farming. Estherwood is between Crowley and Midland, six miles from Crowley. From Midland a branch forty-four miles in length reaches Abbeville, connecting with the main line at New Iberia, and another branch twenty-four miles in length to Eunice. LAFAYETTE N. 0., 146 miles; Alt., 51. Vermillion River-N. O., 143 miles. Originally this city was Its northern affluents head near Called Vermillion, and IS SO the Red River Region. It empties named on some ancient into Vermillion Bay at the Gulf. maps j t ig a place en j O y ing an active and prosperous business life; is southern terminus of Alexandria Branch, eighty-five miles in length to Alexan- dria on Red River; and by Vermillion River it has waterway to the Gulf. The Southern Pacific is now building line for Lafayette to Baton Rouge, capital of State. CADE N. O., 134 miles. There is a branch railway, the Port Barre, extending northerly from Cade to St. Martmsville seven miles, and thence to Arnaudville, twenty-nine miles from Cade. This WAYSIDE NOTES 107 line has lately been extended 12 miles further, to Port Barre. In common with the towns along the Teche, Cade occupies a place of local consequence. NEW IBERIA AT. 0., 127 miles. Olivier-^. O, ,** miles. New Iberia is connected with Abbe- ville, twenty-two miles distant, by the New Iberia and Midland Ranch, and by a four-mile branch of it at Junction, six miles from New Iberia, the celebrated Ayery's Island or Petit Anse salt mines are reached ten miles from New Iberia. To visit this wonderful saline store- house will give large reward. Avery's Island, having the salt, determined to add pepper to it, with result that epicures are now enabled to rejoice in Tabasco pepper for table use. Time was when outside of Tabasco in Old Mexico, this species of refined pepper was cultivated only on Avery's Island, but is now produced elsewhere. JEANERETTE N. O., 116 miles. A , ,. AT ~ Teanerette makes successful claim to XW,*-N.O..... miles. Q jj^ Q{ {he saccharine out p ut o f the Teche. Here is to be seen old Gribbenberg plantation, typical of slavery days "befo' de wah." BALDWIN AT. O., 107 miles. Baldwin, as above noted, connects by rail with Cypremort southerly fifteen miles. It has a large commercial business, dealing chiefly in cane products and the demands of its cultivation. FRANKLIN N. O., 103 miles. Franklin, and as well Patterson, and the entire country as far as Jeanerette, are in the Teche sugar paradise. Franklin enjoys an active life and has a branch railway nineteen miles in length to Cypremort and covers Baldwin by it, four miles from Franklin. BAYOU SALE N. O., 97 miles. This place supports a valuable traffic Calumet-N. O., 92 miles. in ^^ ^ ^ supplies needed by its producers. 108 SOUTHERN PACIFIC The Southern Pacific bridge across Atchafalaya Bayou, Morgan City. PATTERSON A'. O. f 88 miles. Berwick N. O., 82 miles, duction. Patterson is a thriving town and well approved center of sugar pro- Ramos N. O., 77 miles. Bocuf N. O., 75 miles. Gibson N. O., 66 miles. MORGAN CITY A'. O., 82 miles. Morgan City is an important seaport town, planted on the eastern bank of Bayou Atchafalaya, a navigable Donner N. O., 66 miles. wa ter course with many affluents in- Chacahoula N. O., 63 miles. < , ^i 1 1 j- r land northerly, including that of Bayou Teche; it drains the country parallel with the Missis- sippi, extending almost to the banks of Red River, and reaches the Gulf through Atchafalaya Bay. It is substan- tially bridged at Morgan City with town of Berwick at the western end. WAYSIDE NOTES 109 Loading cotton at New Orleans a typical scene of the Sunny South. SCHRIEVER N. O., 57 miles. Schriever is of commercial importance, growing out of its sugar production and other enterprises. A branch railway, six miles in length, extends northerly to Thibodaux and Napoleonville and a second branch southerly, fifteen miles to Houma. LAFOURCHE N. O., 53 miles. Rousseau N. O., 49 miles. Boutte N. O., 24 miles. Bowie N. O., 42 miles. Salix N. O., 19 miles. Raceland Junction N. O., 40 miles. Jefferson N. O., 13 miles. Des Allemands N. O., 32 miles. Avondale N. O., 12 miles. Paradis N. O., 29 miles. At Lafourche and Raceland sugar-cane is profitably grown, and the principal water course is Bayou Black, self-named on account of chemical and vegetable stain in the water. The Des Allemands Bayou, on which this quaint old Ger- man settlement was planted, connects Lake Des Allemands 110 SOUTHERN PACIFIC at the north with Lake Salvador at the south; and finally debouches into Barataria Bay, the one-time chosen haunt of La Fitte and his pirate crew. The approach to New Orleans from the west has been through the great rice belt of Louisiana, where is grown the nutritious pearly cereal that in recent years has become one of the most important commercial products of the country through the "Sugar Bowl" of Louisiana, rich in the succulent cane that makes "New Orleans molasses" possible to the cakes and waffles of a continent's well-ordered breakfast. That portion of the State traversed by you for two hundred and fifty miles is low lying and of surpassing richness a romantic land of lakes and sluggish bayou water courses; here and there rich plantations of sugar and of rice, alternat- ing flag and reed covered savannas, and bodies of lichen- draped timber; these last, conveniently threaded by canoe water ways, useful in promotion of timber commerce, and for sporting purposes. When there is high water in the Mississippi, much of this land, if not protected by levee, is under water, and not infrequently serpents and saurians may be caught napping on some prostrate tree bole that invites to sun-bath. This fertile and highly interesting region includes the sugar center of Louisiana; the Teche and the romantic land of Acadia. It will interest you to know that you reach the Mississippi River at Avondale, and, without leaving your seats, the en- tire train is taken aboard an immense ferry-boat, and across the river to the union station, corner of Howard Avenue and Rampart Street, in the very heart of the city, with Canal Street and the principal hotels only from six to ten blocks away. MISSISSIPPI RIVER If one asks, "What is the dominant feature of New Or- leans?" the answer shall be: "The wondrous waterway that has made such a metropolis possible" the tawny, down- moving tide, that in its majesty compelled recognition as "Father of Waters." The eastern bank of this nine-mile curve of it, becoming urban, has been named Crescent City. Standing, contemplative on the levee, its influence is in WAYSIDE NOTES 111 line with that of Niagara's fatal plunge. Few persons un- moved can look upon this turbid current, bearing gifts of fer- tility, the tribute of Cumberland, of Blue Ridge and the Alleghanys; of far-away western Lake Superior's lacustrine hunting-grounds, and from Rocky Mountain fastnesses and realms of his Majesty the King, in British America. Here speaks the voice of resistless Omnipotence; the scene commands silence by its majesty, its hints of tireless strength. It is not necessary to mark in backward glance the opulent city, born of the flood and fostered by its bounty, nor to remember its romantic history, the story of its rich ocean cargoes and the fleet of river steamers that wove the enrich- ing web of inland commerce. The river hides its secrets, imperturbable, this Nile of the Americas, highway of nations vanished long ago. If for this view you have traversed the continent from Pacific to Atlantic, your reward is all sufficient. At the ferry of the Sunset Route, the river's breadth is about half a mile, with an extreme depth of two hundred feet at high water; and current, five miles an hour; the distance to Gulf of Mexico is one hundred and eighteen miles. NEW ORLEANS Pop., 350,000, This city, under wise sanitation, now takes high rank for healthfulness, whether the seasonal test be midsummer, or the opposite segment of the annual circle. Let no one so misapprehend the fact as to avoid or pass it flying, since painstaking inspections offer unusual rewards. In many respects the large cities of our country are replicas; differences relating chiefly to their topography and area, but this southern metropolis is unique, and must for all time remain so. It is most unlikely in the world's future history, that the genesis of any other city will fall under the complex influences that presided here. The city is proud of its business buildings, as no less than six skyscrapers have been built the last year, with several more planned for the near future. These, in addition to several already in hand, make the city compare favorably with any other metropolis. Make judicial selection of street car lines and thread the principal avenues, thereby obtaining a general idea of urban characteristics; thereafter by carriage, 112 SOUTHERN PACIFIC with competent Jehu, give critical examination of poetic, historic and romantic bits; nor let consuming interest in the living overshadow some thoughts of sacred dust that immor- talizes the metropolis. You will surely visit this, and seeing with what exquisite good taste and filial piety paternal ashes are inurned, will have your reward in juster appreciation of a love that requires such high art to give it visible expression. You have noted the Cathedral on Jackson Square, mayhap, have enjoyed its incensed atmosphere; have marked the equestrian statue in bronze to General Jackson, standing on the spot where in its day stood a triumphal arch heavy with victor's laurel and fragrant with choicest gifts of Flora, be- neath which, in grand march to the sacred temple, all the people in loud acclaim escorted the hero. Historic French market is not far distant and invites an early morning call. When, through these various visits you have possessed yourself of the spiritual and social aroma, and of the commercial no less than material atmosphere of this city, it will stand before you pre-eminently non-provincial a cosmopolitan metropolis having no peer in this or any other land. Connection is made at New Orleans with the palatiaJ steamers of the Southern Pacific Company for New York and Havana. REPRESENTATIVES .PASSENGER DEPARTMENT HjftAS. S. FEE, Passenger Traffic Manager San Francisco, Cal. [/&.. HORSBURGH, JR., General Passenger Agent San Francisco, Cal. *. A. DONALDSON, Assistant General Passenger Agent San Francisco, Cal. . R. JUDAH, Assistant General Passenger Agent San Francisco, Cal. 5 $UL SHOUP, Assistant General Passenger Agent San Francisco, Cal. T.' A. GRAHAM, Assistant General Pass. Agent, 600 S. Spring St. .Los Angeles, Cal. WM. McMuRRAY, General Passenger Agent, Oregon Lines Portland, Ore. f. M. SCOTT, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Oregon Lines Portland, Ore. ). E. BURLEY, General Pass. Agent, Lines East of Sparks Salt Lake City, Utah }. *S. SPENCER, Asst. Gen. Pass. Agent, Lines East of Sparks. . Salt Lake City, Utah THOS J. ANDERSON, General Passenger Agent, G. H. & S. A. Ry Houston, Texas }.- HELLEN, Assistant General Passenger Agent, G. H. & S. A. Ry. .Houston, Texas I" E. BATTURS, General Passenger Agent, M. L. & T. R. R New Orleans, La. O. BICKNELL, General Passenger Agent, A. & C. R. R., C. Y. R. & P. R. R., G. V. G. & N. Ry., M. & P. & S. R. V. R. R., Sonora Ry Tucson, Ariz. j. F. JACKSON, Asst. General Passenger Agent, Sonora Ry Guaymas, Mexico -GENERAL DIVISION AND TRAVELING AGENTS A-LANTA, GA. J. F. Van Rensselaer, General Agent 124 Peachtree Street &> ^TIMORE, MD. B. B. Barber, Agent Piper Building vfc CSE, IDAHO D. P. Stubbs, Dist. Pass. Agent, O. S. L. R. R !&;STON, MASS. J. H. Glynn, New England Agent 170 Washington Street fer.TTE, MONT. F. D. Wilson, D. P. & F. Agt., O. R. & N. Co.. 105 N. Main Street @i ICAGO, ILL. W. G. Neimyer, General Agent 120 Jackson Boulevard HKUCINNATI, OHIO W. H. Connor, General Agent 53 East Fourth Street iplNVER, COLO. W. K. McAllister, Gen. Agent 313 Railway Exchange Building Drs MOINES, IA. J. W. Turtle, Traveling Passenger Agent 313 W. 5th Street 'jbzTROiT, MICH. F. B. Choate, General Agent 1 1 Fort Street .EL PASO, TEXAS A. W. Reeves, General Agent, G. H. & S. A. Ry Fjfc^SNO, CAL. C. M. Burkhalter, District Pass, and Freight Agent 1013 J Street MxJbfiAS CITY, Mo. H. G. Kaill, General Agent 901 Walnut Street LEWISTON, IDAHO C. W. Mount, General Agent, O. R. & N. Co I,os ANGELES, CAL. N. R. Martin, Dist. Pass. Agent 600 South Spring Street J|EXICO CITY, MEX. W. C. McCormick, General Agent Prol. 5 de Mayo MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. H. F. Carter, District Passenger Agent 21 S. Third Street VloNTEREY, MEX. H. N. Gibson, General Agent Old P. O. Building NEW YORK, N. Y. L. H. Nutting, Gen. East. Pass. Agent i and 349 Broadway OAKLAND, CAL. G. T. Forsyth, Dist. Pass, and Frt. Agt. .. 1 3th and Franklin Streets OLY'MPIA, WASH. J. C. Percival, Agent Percivals Dock PHILADELPHIA, PA. R. J. Smith, Agent 632 Chestnut Street MTTTSBURG, PA. G. G. Herring, General Agent 708-9 Park Building (TOO, NEV. E. W. Clapp, District Passenger and Freight Agent. .Gazette Building SACRAMENTO, CAL. John C. Stone, District Passenger and Freight Agent SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH D. R. Gray, Dist. Pass, and Freight Agt.. 201 Main Street SAN DIEGO, CAL. J. R. Downs, Commercial Agent 901 Fifth Street SAK FRANCISCO, CAL. A. S. Mann, Dist. Pass. Agt. .884 Market St. & 12 Powell St. N FOSE, CAL. E. Shillingsburg, Dist. Pass, and Frt. Agt 40 E. Santa Clara St. SEATTLE, WASH. E. E. Ellis, General Agent 608 First Avenue JJrOKANE, WASH. W. R. Skey, Traveling Passenger Agent, O. R. & N. Co ST. -Louis, Mo. L. E. Townsley, General Agent 903 Olive Street ^YEACUSE, N. Y. F. T. Brooks, New York State Agent 212 W. Washington St. I'TACOMA, WASH. Robt. Lee, Agent Eleventh and Pacific Avenue TrcsoN, ARIZ. M. O. Bicknell, Asst. General Passenger and Freight Agent f. WALLA WALLA, WASH. R. Burns, Dist. Frt. & Pass. Agt., O. R. & N. Co SHINGTON, D. C. A. J. Poston, Gen'l Agt., Washington-Sunset Route.. 905 r bt. Bbdplph Falck, General European Passenger Agent, Amerikahaus, 25, 27 Ferdinand ph Falck, General European Passenger Agent, Amenkahaus, 25, 27 Ferdinand Strasse, Hamburg, Germany; 49 Leadenhall Street, London, E. C., England; 22 Cockspur Street, London, W. E., England; 25 Water Street, Liverpool, Wynhaven S. S., Rotterdam, Netherlands; n Rue Chapelle de p, Belgium; 39 Rue St. Augustin, Paris, France. T. D. McKay, General Passenger Agent S. F. O. R. SEA S EA SAN FRANCISCO TO NEW ORLEANS VESTIBULED SLEEPING CAR' DRAWING ROOMS OBSERVATION CARS CAFE -LADIES PARLOR SMOKING AND LOUNG!' ROOMS, LIBRARY. D MISSIS! GH ORANGE THE LAND OF T* AND TH.ECA!