MERRY CRIISAD TO THE GOLDEN GATE BANCROFT LIBRARY o THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE UNDER THE BANNERS OF Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, Knights Templar, Allegheny, Pa. A COMPLETE STORY OF THE TWENTY-NINTH TRIENNIAL CONCLAVE Grand Encampment, Knights Templar, U.S.A. SAN FRANCISCO, CAL, SEPTEMBER, 1904 AND A TOUR OF TEN THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE WONDERLAND OF THE WEST BY EDMUND FREDERICK ERK COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY EDMUND FREDERICK ERK The Werner Company, Akron, O. and Pittsburgh, Pa. I- 0(^0-33 E TO THOSE WHO HAVE GUIDED AND GUARDED US ALONG LIFE'S PILGRIMAGE 2>ear jfolfcs at 1bome" THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED (ix) Bio SIR WM. A. AEBERLI SIR ROBERT J. BOVARD SIR JOHN F. BENKART MRS. JOHN F. BENKART Miss SELMA BENKART SIR G. G. BIDDLE MRS. G. G. BIDDLE SIR FRED W. BECKERT SIR JOHN BADER Miss MARY BADER SIR CARL A. BAUMANN SIR EDWARD BURRY Miss SADIE CAMPBELL SIR CHAS. S. CRAIG SIR SAMUEL COOMBS SIR EDMUND F. ERK SIR HERMAN FLECHSIG MRS. HERMAN FLECHSIG SIR O. C. GREENAWALT SIR WAYNE GILLAND SIR JOSEPH J. GILCHRIST SIR ROBERT J. GRAHAM Miss G. HILLERICH Miss T. HILLERICH SIR C. C. HECKEL BRO. JOHN HANLEY MRS. JOHN HANLEY SIR W. H. JACK SIR HARRY KREPS SIR EDWARD KUNBERGER SIR HARRY W. LOWRIE MRS. HARRY W. LOWRIE MR. IVOR MORRIS LOWRIE MR. M. LENINGER SIR WM. G. LEE MRS. WM. G. LEE SIR B. SCOTT M'FARLAND MR. Jos. A. NULL SIR W. F. PEARS SIR W. G. REEL SIR OSCAR SCHULZE MRS. OSCAR SCHULZE Miss ADDIE SCHULZE Miss LYDIA SCHULZE MR. HERBERT SCHULZE SIR WM. A. SEILING MRS. WM. A. SEILING SIR H. GLENN SAMPLE BRO. A. F. SCHWERD MRS. A. F. SCHWERD SIR PHILLIP STEINMILLER MRS. PHILLIP STEINMILLER Miss MAGGIE STEINMILLER SIR WALTER SHOOK SIR WM. J. STAIGER SIR R. C. TANNEHILL MRS. R. C. TANNEHILL SIR H. H. TAYLOR SIR DAVID B. WATSON SIR WM. S. WATSON COMMITTEE SIR HARRY W. LOWRIE SIR OSCAR SCHULZE SIR HERMAN FLECHSIG PRESS REPRESENTATIVE SIR EDMUND F. ERK ,u< c fions Fitting is this glad occasion for fond memories galore, Of the pilgrimage to 'Frisco, on the bright Pacific shore To the city of the Conclave, where fraternity held sway. And to other scenes of pleasure as we journeyed on our way. Back again come recollections of the frolics on the train, As we sped o'er hill and valley and were whirled across the plain ; And the friends we can't forget them who gave greet- ing as we went, Cheering us upon our travels o'er the wide-stretched con- tinent. There are memories inspiring of the mountains capped with snow Of Pike's Peak, whose hoary summit first reflects the morning glow Of the Yellowstone, whose geysers and rare wonders met our eyes, Of the soul-entrancing beauty of the western sapphire skies. \ We recall the many marvels in wild Arizona shown Rocky passes, gorges, desert, and Grand Canyon's bulk of stone ; Nature spread her panorama everywhere we pleased to roam, And a thousand topics furnished for the journeying back home. Sweet to us are recollections of the friendships that we made, 'And the kind, fraternal spirit that was everywhere dis- played. All the scenes that charmed our vision, all the friendships and the smiles, Are again before vis pictured with that glad ten thousand miles. EDMUND F. ERK. v> jForcwocb ONORED wherever Templarism is known and enjoying world- wide distinction and reputation as travelers having twice made pilgrimages throughout Europe there was little surprise announced when public knowl- edge was given that Allegheny Commandery No. 35, Knights Templar, would make a trans-continental jaunt to attend the Twenty-ninth Triennial Conclave, Knights Templar, United States of America, which was held in San Francisco in September, 1904. An itinerary was skillfully arranged that carried the special train of pilgrims over ten thousand miles and through nearly every portion of "America's Wonderland" in a tour of about six weeks' duration. At the suggestion of several Sir Knights who participated in the trip, I decided to prepare a history of the tour, and to chronicle as many of the interesting incidents that transpired as had come to my notice. In justice to myself it must be confessed that this work has been somewhat hastily prepared, and to this end, efforts toward literary style have been sacrificed. Here and there a sentence may need straightening out and some thought might have been given better expression. My first desire was to go over each chapter and add a little here, and take away a little there ; polishing up and burnishing as I went along. But when I looked over them my heart failed me. I remembered the circumstances surrounding the writing of every one of them and I shall let them alone. It is hoped that this volume will appeal to that large class of readers which takes pleasure in traveling by imagination, as well as to those who have actually seen the objects described. (xi) Xll FOREWORD That it is not burdensome with statistics, nor too intricate in prolixity of description, but breathes a spirit of good will, of hope- fulness and appreciation that will induce the reader to travel with us. That it presents to the fraters who have traveled from all points of the continent, and from across the seas, a souvenir which will pleasantly remind them of their pilgrimage to the land of sunshine in a year most favorable and opportune, and one intended to com- memorate the assembling, upon the golden shores of the vast Pacific, some forty thousand Sir Knights in Triennial Conclave. That the reader, recognizing the difficulties of adequate treat- ment of so great a subject, may find in the interest it inspires an indulgent excuse of any shortcomings. Truly, we have traveled over but a mere portion of this broad land of ours, but enough, quite enough, to give an idea of its won- ders and vastness and to impress the noble and patriotic thought of Thoreau and Cook, so essential to all of us: "Nothing can be hoped for you if this bit of mould under your feet is not sweeter to you than any other in the world." In addition I have, as nearly as possible, in this volume endeav- ored to set forth accurately the daily incidents of the "Big Happy Family " and of its members individually. I trust it will serve as a memento of that happy pilgrimage and if it serves to spend an hour pleasantly in your company I shall feel fully satisfied and amply repaid. As to what measure of success has crowned my efforts I leave to the judgment of the reader with the confidence born of conscientious and faithful effort. E. F. E. The author is indebted to Mr. C. A. Cairns, The Chicago and Northwestern Railway Company; Mr. E. L. Lomax, The Union Pacific Railroad Company; Mr. S. K. Hooper, The Denver and Rio Grande Railroad Company; Mr. C. W. Sells, the Manitou and Pike's Peak Railway Company; Mr. D. C. Mac Walters, The Colorado Springs and Cripple Creek District Railway Company; Mr. D. E. Burley, The Oregon Short Line Railroad Company; Mr. A. M. Cleland, The Northern Pacific Railroad Company; Mr. Jas. Horsburgh, Jr., Southern Pacific Company; Mr. A. D. Shepard, Mr. C. S. Aiken, Pacific Improvement Company; Mr. F. E. Shellaberger, Mr. W. H. Simpson, The Atchison, Topeka and Santa F6 Railway System; Mr. Frank S. Thayer, Denver, Col., Mr. F. Jay Haynes, St. Paul, Minn., Mr. Louis Roesch, San Francisco, Cal., for their courtesy in permitting the use of many of the illustrations in this volume. TEable of Contents SEVEN HUNDRED AND FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS. FOND RECOLLECTIONS THE BIG HAPPY FAMILY FOREWORD. CHAPTER I. " All-la-board " The "Bon Voyage" The Big Happy Family "Luncheon redda' in the dinin' cah" Afternoon of the First Day Arrival at Chicago Toward the Upper Mississippi Inci- dents by the Way 1-7 CHAPTER II. The Alarm Clock Across Iowa Cedar Rapids Belle Plain Tama Burry's Inoffensive Bazoo The Boyer Valley Missouri Valley The Missouri Bluffs Council Bluffs Omaha A Gala Day for Millard Larceny on the Western Plains, Taking Things from Dumb Animals Our Music and the " Terrible Quartette " Co- lumbus, Nebraska Lexington Incidents by the Way 7-13 CHAPTER III. A Mass Meeting in the "Stag" Coach The Consumptive Accordion The Verdict The Prairies of Nebraska Julesburg, Colorado Overland Stage Route Sterling A Sociable Horse Ranch Life Activity Among the Pilgrims Denver Mantle-pieces for the Skies The Rockies Experience in " See Denver by Trolley " Car All You Can Eat for Twenty-five Cents The " Free-from- Care Feeling " Approaching Pike's Peak The " Terrible Quar- tette" The High Seas of a Vocal List Incidents by the Way. . . 13-29 CHAPTER IV. Early Rising at Colorado Springs Observing the Sun Create the New Morn Bath in the Open The Invaders and the Telegraph Opera- tor Noise by the Original Pilgrimage Musicians Manitou Soda, Sulphur and Iron Springs Grand Caverns Cog Wheel Railroad Ascending Pike's Peak Summit Pike's Peak De- scending from the Peak "Garden of the Gods" North and South Cheyenne Canyons Seven Falls Pillar of Hercules Sunset The Dinner that Wasn't and Why the Boys Didn't Dance Nature Sleeps Incidents by the Way 29-46 (xiii) TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER V. " The Short Line " Scenic Creations Colorado Springs The Engi- neer, a Big, Good-souled Fellow A Memorable Look at Pike's Peak Oscar's Superb Idea A Jump off the Summit Pittsburgh Tobies A Delightful, Harmless Game of Euchre Burry's Sweater Selling's Feast of Melons A. Moving Panorama Pueblo Canyon City Royal Gorge Grand Canyon of the Arkansas Scenic Gems of Colorado Portals of Grandeur Auditorium of the Rocky Mountains Leadville Tennessee Pass Mountain of the Holy Cross Sunset " The Night of the Party" A Spectacle That Found Its Strength in Its Serenity Canyon of the Grand River Valley of the Eagle River Dream- land of Stone Nature's Gigantic Specimen of Ancient Architec- ture Glenwood Springs The Entertainment Voted a Glorious Success The Trackless Thoroughfares of God in the Midnight Skies Incidents by the Way 47~S6 CHAPTER VI. The Silent Battle of Dawn and Darkness " Castle Gate " The Wasatch Range Salt Lake City Saltair Beach Bathing in Salt Lake The Sun Was Eclipsed for an Instant Not a Believer in the Com- mercial in Art " Bill " Was not Desirous of Seeing Fond Attention Wasted on Counterfeit Ailments The First Mormon Colony A Tour of the City Temple Square Mormon Tabernacle "Assembly Hall" Mormon Temple Matrimony Is a Good Thing, but It Can Be and Is Overdone Preparing the Physical for the Grand, Strenuous Expedition to Come Incidents by the Way 57-62 CHAPTER VII. Arriving at Monida, Montana We Stood Face to Face with the Strenu- ous Life of the West The Coach and Fiery Mustangs Entering an Expedition within an Expedition Farewell to Our " Special " Our Coaches Were Off Like a Pack of Well Trained Hounds The Race to Lakeview Deeply Touched by Nature Trophy of the Chase Lakeview Inn " Davie " Tries To Identify His Compan- ions The Snow Slides Targhe Pass Crossing the Snake River The Scene of a Thunder Storm 60 Miles Away The Inn on the Border of the Park A Day of Rare Holiday Frolic Inci- dents by the Way 63-75 CHAPTER VIII. Entering the Yellowstone National Park Uncle Sam's Famous Breath- ing Spots Christmas Tree Park Deer, Elk and Eagle We Dis- cussed Everything We Knew, as Well as Things We Were Not Cer- tain About The Driver Took Up the Thread of His Life's His- tory The Heart to Heart Talk among Congenial Companions Cheered by Our Own Melodies There Are Two Kinds of Music Riverside Station Firehole River Arriving at Fountain Hotel Mistaken for a Stranded Circus Troupe Fondest Anticipations of a Meal Tenement House Torture on a " near-piano " Geysers, TABLE OF CONTENTS XV Hot Springs, Paint Pots, Pools and Other Natural Curiosities in the Lower Geyser Basin The Struggle between the Subterranean Fires and Peaceful Vegetation Government Soldiers Bears at Fountain Hotel Bear Stories and Stories You Can't Bear Tan- cred Commandery No. 48 of Pittsburgh Experience in a Yellow- stone Park Barber Shop Mary Commandery of Philadelphia The Law and Order Committee Very Charitably Agreed Not To Allow "Bobbie" and " Joe" To Sing " Bobbie's" Scheme to Aid Some "Noble Charity" "As the Hours of Morning Hovered Near" The Geyser Formations Compared with the " Seven Ages of Man " The Day Sleeps with Open Eyes Incidents by the Way 76-88 CHAPTER IX. Resting in the Bosom of Glorious Nature Isolation from the World Leads to Forgetfulness Bound for Faithful Inn Party Left Behind The Tenderfoot Can Sustain Things Which the Strenuous Man of the West Finds beyond His Physique Middle Geyser Basin Hell's Half Acre Upper Geyser Basin "Old Faithful " A Pictur- esque Hostelry Again the Unshaven Were Directed to the Boiler Room More Bears Mary Commandery of Philadelphia The Author's Unfamiliarity of Technical Makeup of Ladies' Gar- ments Features of the Evening Incidents by -the Way 89-100 CHAPTER X. En route to Thumb Station and the Yellowstone Lake " He Helps Those Who Help Themselves" Continental Divide Arrival at West Thumb Station Paint Pots and Hot Springs Rain and Hail Arrival at Lake Hotel " Freddie's " Fishing Ability Mary Com- mandery of Philadelphia Features of the Evening More Bear A Contrast that Offered a Text for Talk A Cool, Almost Wintry Night Came with the Stars A Summing up of the Day's Events " Good Night " Incidents by the Way 100-105 CHAPTER XI. "Freddie" Didn't Get Any Fish, But He Did Get the Wish-bone The Lake En route to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone Yel- lowstone River Bridger Lake Anticipation of the Scenes We Were to Behold Hayden Valley Arrival at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone Upper and Lower Falls " Point Lookout " "Grand View" The "Brink" Canyon Hotel Mary Com- mandery of Philadelphia Features of the Evening A Discussion of the Park and Its History Aeberli and Reel Play the Star Roles A Midnight Bath in Alum Creek or the True Fountain of Youth The Candle Burned at Both Ends The Raging Waterfalls a Sleep- wrecker Incidents by the Way 105-114 CHAPTER XII. A Morning of Calm Beauty En route to Norris Geyser Basin Nature Changed Her Attire Through the Shadow of the Forest Treas- ury of Untold Wealth in Timber "Twin Tree" The Unblem- XVI TABLE OP CONTENTS ished Face of Virgin Nature The Household of Nature Norris Geyser Basin Mary Commandery of Philadelphia Mammoth Hot Springs " Northern Gate" " Gardner Entrance" Gibbon River and Gibbon Falls Boundless Forests Dreamy Thoughts of Enchanted Folk and Pleasing Legendary Fables A Secret that May Be Hidden from the Philosopher and yet Be Clear to the In- fant Madison River "The Stone Bruise to Our Memory" Return to the Inn on the Border Food for " Rock-me-to-sleep, Mother" The Customary Line-up Something to Encourage the Appetite but Discourage it Immediately Thereafter The First Mutiny Incidents at the Inn " Davie" Compelled to Lie Awake in Lonesome Misery Midnight Experience with an Owl Inci- dents by the Way 114-121 CHAPTER XIII. Bound for Monida Fancy Shots Exterminating the Duck Tribe Ar- rival at Lakeview Inn Exercise in Calisthenics The "Bum Coach" The Race "Three Fingered Mike" "Home" Again A Night Typical of Old Times Pleasant Memories of a Trip through the Yellowstone National Park En route toOgden Sandstorm Incidents by the Way 122-127 CHAPTER XIV. In the Light of the Newborn Day Old-Fashioned Home-Life Aboard the Train The Same Mass Meeting Disturbing Elements of the Deliberating Conferences Arrival at Ogden, Utah Change in the Time Standard " Ogden- Lucin Cut-Off" Across the Great Salt Lake Promontory Station Nevada State Line Tecoma Pilot Peak Moor Station Coyotes and Prairie Dogs are " Birds of a Different Feather" The Great American Desert (also Known as the Humboldt Desert) " Pinched Lights " Palisade " Knights of the Road " Basking on the Promenade Deck Cluro Beowawe Shoshone Battle Mountain Stone House Iron Point Winnemucca Humboldt "Bobbie" Voted a Nightin- gale The Past, Present, and Possible Future of the Great Ameri- can Desert Incidents by the Way 127-134 CHAPTER XV. Far Removed from the Chain of Cities Every Land on Earth Has Its Joy- ous Awakening Wadsworth Vista Reno The Truckee- Carson Canal The Reclamation Act Carson City Virginia City Verdi State Line Entering California Floriston Truckee Indian and Squaw Lake Tahoe Independence Lake Donner Lake Summit Sierra Nevadas A Succession of Tun- nels and Snowsheds Little Stations, Which Have the Flavor of Mining Camps Mount Sha-sta Sacramento Valley Chico Marysville Colonia El Dorado Cape Horn American River Iowa Hill Auburn Irrigating the Sacramento Valley Forest Fire New Castle Penryn Loomis Rocklin Rose- ville Antelope Sacramento Meeting the Escort Benicia Port Costa San Francisco Bay Oakland The City of Joy and TABLE OF CONTENTS xvii Festivity The Conclave City San Francisco Escort to the Hotel Our Cosmopolitan Hotel and Experiences Therein The City is Dressed in Holiday Attire, Her Gates are Open to Receive Her Guests, Her Streets and Homes are Lighted, The Tables are Spread and the Feast is Set The Great Display and Knightly Hospitality of the Metropolis of the Pacific Sir Robert's Expe- rience in a 'Frisco Barber Shop Shaving Prices at a Tonsorial Ex- change Sir Tannehill's Pain Recompensed the Company's Pane The Illumination The First Night in 'Frisco a Stirring and Mem- orable One Incidents by the Way 135-149 CHAPTER XVI. Special Services by California Commandery No. i and Golden Gate Com- mandery No. 16, Morning, Afternoon and Evening California Commanderies' Headquarters Golden Gate Park Cliff House Seal Rocks Sutro Baths Sutro Heights Evening Drives and Trolley Rides The Diaries and Historians Fall by the Wayside Incidents by the Way 149-155 CHAPTER XVII. Not a Single Flea in 'Frisco Sir Otto's Physical Culture Exercise The Conclave Program for the Day Labor Day in California Arrival of the Earl of Euston (Personal Representative of King Ed- ward) and the Delegation Representing the Grand Priory of Eng- land and Wales Directory of Commanderies and Delegations at the Conclave Sight-seeing Expeditions The Presidio Walter and Ivor, Gallant to a Fault The Navy Department and Govern- ment Ships An Afternoon of Ceaseless Activity San Francisco a Tourist's Mecca Oakland Berkeley Alameda Mt. Tamal- pais Fort Mason Fisherman's Wharf The Water Front The Spirit of Roving and Adventure Pervades the Scene Where Will You Go? The Bay of San Francisco Point Richmond San Pablo Bay Mare Islands Mount Diablo Franciscan Mis- sion-builders The Mission Dolores Early Story of San Fran- cisco and its History Up-to-date Telegraph Hill Nob Hill Park Peak Mission Peaks State Prison on Point San Quentin Angel Island Raccoon Straits Hospital Cove United States Quarantine Station Sheep Island Goat Island Naval Training School The Golden Gate Island of Alcatraz Entertainments and Receptions Afternoon and Evening The City in Gala Attire and in Possession of a Merry and Loving Gathering Chinatown by Day and Night Chinese Theater and Chinese Play Chinese Performance in Detail Life of a Chinese Actor Incidents by the Way 155-172 CHAPTER XVIII. The Day of the Parade Sir Seiling Did Not Care to Establish a Tiresome Summer Fashion "Before and After Taking " Advertisement in the Ranks of Allegheny Paraders Averted The Conclave Pro- gram for the Day The Parade, The Formation and Various Divi- sions in Detail Water-Bottle Wagons and the Shasta Shower XViii TABLE OP CONTENTS Bath Sad Incident of the Parade in the Death of Gallant Sir Knight Joseph Leath The Grand Commandery and Session of the Grand Encampment Events for Afternoon and Evening Visita- tion Incidents by the Way 173-179 CHAPTER XIX. "Old Sol "a Distinguished Knight Competitive Drill Bay Excursion The Conclave The Conclave Program for the Day Events for Afternoon and Evening Visitation Sight-seeing in the " Poor Man's" Automobile, The Trolley Car Newspaper Row Dewey Monument Old-time Mansions Nob Hill Telegraph Hill Fairmont Hotel Hopkins Institute of Art Hall of Justice Ferry Depot Waterfront Oakland Alameda Berkeley University of California Alcatraz Island Yerba Buena Island Sansalito Point Richmond Mount Tamalpais and Mount Dia- blo Preside Government Reservation Fort Mason Laurel Hill Cemetery Richmond District Golden Gate Park Govern- ment Life Saving Station Sutro Gardens Strawberry Hill Ashbury Heights Mount Olympus City Hall, the Hall of Rec- ords, Mechanics Pavilion and Post Office Academy of Science and Pioneer Hall United States Mint A City of Fair Aspect San Francisco's Topography Union Ferry Depot The Cos- mopolitan Air of San Francisco and the City Generally Union Iron Works The City Stands on the Threshold That Looks Into Greater Possibilities Pittsburgh Commandery No. i Reception Receptions of the Evening Banquet in Honor of the Grand En- campment of the United States The Press Club of San Francisco "Open Door Policy " Incidents by the Way 180-188 CHAPTER XX. The Thermometer Reached an Ambitious Height The Conclave Program for the Day Events for Afternoon and Evening Visitation A Day Filled to Overflowing with Engagements Our Last Day in the Conclave City Farewell Visits Hospitality of the Enter- tainers " For By Thy Fruit Shall I Know You " and " Such As I Have Give I Unto Thee" The Hearty Social Welcome Bou- quets Became More Numerous Than our Button-Holes Pilgrims of Allegheny Commandery Did Justice to All Things California Grand Commandery California Commandery No. i Golden Gate Commandery No. 16 Los Angeles Commandery No. 9 Sac- ramento Commandery No. 2 California Commanderies The " Trestle Board " Closing of the Grand Encampment Session The Next Conclave Election of Grand Officers Concert and En- tertainment in the Greek Theater Brilliant Functions in the Mark Hopkins Institute of Art Eve of Our Departure The Sadness of Our Farewell Incidents by the Way 188-194 CHAPTER XXI. Not a Nationality on the Hotel Force was Inactive Realization of Our Leave-Taking California Had Been a Royal and Liberal Host San Francisco Had Been Extravagant in Her Hospitality A Light TABLE OF CONTENTS xix Whose Radiance Was Unconquerable We Had Gathered on the Very Edge of the Country Recollections Survive Beyond the Grave A Last Look Over the Beautiful Panorama The " Alle- gheny Special " En route to San Jose Burlingame San Mateo Belmont Menlo Park Palo Alto Santa Clara Valley Le- land Stanford, Jr., University San Jose Santa Clara The Cala- veras Mountains Mount Hamilton Lick Observatory Experi- ences With a Traveling Astronomer and the Opposition Observa- tory Alum Rock Our Explorers Found a 20 Ton Meteor Visiting the Jail (solely a voluntary act) San Joaquin Valley Discoveries of the " Forty-Niners " Big Tree Groves Merced River The High Sierras Yosemite Valley En route to Big Tree Station Los Gatos Santa Cruz Mountains Impressive Sights in the Big Tree Grove The Oldest Living Thing on Earth Herman and Oscar's Superb Ideas Arrival at Santa Cruz Mon- terey Bay Neptune Casino " Chicken Disrupts Colored Con- gregation " Incidents by the Way. 194-206 CHAPTER XXII. Capitola Natural Bridges Noel Heights and Beach Hill Twin Lakes En route to Del Monte Aptos Parjaro None Had Succeeded in Obtaining a Meal The Porter's Adventure Del Monte the Garden of Eden of the 2oth Century Del Monte Hotel Seven- teen Mile Drive The Old Padre Pacific Grove Junipero Serra Mountains Monterey General Fremont Mission ofCarmel Glass-bottom-Boats Diversions for Hotel Guests The Enchant- ing Gardens An Informal Entertainment at the Railway Station Allegheny " Special " as the Center of a Double Fire Incidents by the Way 206-211 CHAPTER XXIII. Paso Rubles San Luis Obispo En route to Santa Barbara The Mis- leading Cry of Sunday Barber Arrival at Santa Barbara The Bay The Channel Santa Yuez Mountains Mountainous Is- lands Caverns and Chambers The Old Presido Memorials of Bygone Days Santa Barbara Mission Incidents Within the Mis- sion Walls Story of the Missions Misfit in Bathing Suits A Drama of a Reverse Nature Hurried to the Wrong Station En route to Los Angeles Summerland Marine Oil Wells Oil as the "Reel Thing" Ventura Montalvo Santa Paula Sespe Camulos, " the Home of Ramona " Johnston Felt More Reconciled to His Own Birthplace Saugus San Fernando Val- ley Los Angeles, the Splendor and Interest It Had to Offer Hotels on Wheels Emergency Hospital on Board the Train Incidents by the Way 211-223 CHAPTER XXIV. Itinerary for the Day Echo Mountain Mount Lowe Lowe Observatory The Cable Incline Alpine Railroad Alpine Tavern Pasadena XX TABLE OF CONTENTS A Staunch Temperance Spirit Ostrich Farm Ostrich Tales Return to Los Angeles Los Angeles Commandery No. 9 "Pil- grim I Greet Thee" The Boundless Hospitality Moved Again A Thrilling Incident Incidents by the Way 223-229 CHAPTER XXV. Embarrassment at the Hands of a Confused Laundryman Santa Monica Ocean Park Port Los Angeles Swatelle National Soldiers' Home Plaza Del Rey Redondo Hermosa Beach Seeking Moonstones by Sunlight Hollywood Manhattan Beach Long Beach Brighton Beach Alhambra Wilson Peak Park Mon- rovia Pomona Idyllwild San Gabriel San Diego Coro- nado The Same Hospitality Reigned Supreme An Outline of Attack for the Morrow A Kingdom Without a King Crowning the King Incidents by the Way 229-235 CHAPTER XXVI. "The King Could Do No Wrong" San Pedro The Salt Lake Route The Flying Fish Avalon Santa Catalina Islands "Got Any Change, Mister?" Glass Bottom Boats The Marine Gardens Side Trips at Avalon Sports for the Angler The Leaping Tuna An Excellent " Ready On" The Land Sailors Deserted the Deck One by One Concentrated Rush on the Part of the "Stag Coachers" Last Night in Loa Angeles One of the Most Glorious Receptions of the Pilgrimage Incidents by the Way 235-240 CHAPTER XXVII. A Few Regrets Santa Fe" " Kiteshaped " Track Santa Anita Mon- rovia Azusa Pomona Ontario Rialto San Bernardino Redlands Mentone Highland Colton Riverside Corona Orange Fullerton La Mirada "Lucky" Baldwin Arrival at Riverside Welcoming Music of the Chimes The Glenwood, "California's Mission Hotel" Delightful Drives Orange Groves Magnolia Avenue Nature Dressed in Her Prettiest Gown The Pepper, Palm, Date-palm, Magnolia and Other Tropi- cal Trees Irrigation Schemes Cactus Gardens Sherman Indian School An Exceptionally Sweet Delicacy A Hymn Appropriate to the Occasion " Onward Christian Soldiers" Leaving River- side San Bernardino Mountains Dethronement of the Early Sleepers Barstow The Mojave Desert Death Valley Inci- dents by the Way 240-246 CHAPTER XXVIII. The Needles Colorado River Farewell to California Rainy Season in California Four Conditions Have Served to Make California a Land of Fame and Plenty Mineral Wealth Climate Irriga- TABLE OF CONTENTS xxi tion Railroads California's Three Zones A New Factor That Will Work Wonders for California Entering Arizona The Silent and Mournful Expanse The Custom of Marking Boundaries Crude Method of Establishing Real Estate Possessions The Un- pretentious Town of Yucca Possibilities to the Souvenir Col- lectors Curious Conditions Concerning Curio Collecting Mu- seum of Alleged Antiquity Murdering the Clock and the Cuckoo Johnston's Ears Were Trained to Chicken Hunting Ar- riving at Kingman Burry Compelled to Cage His Sweater Unique Experiences at Kingman Kunnie's Havanas Studying Human Nature and "Jollying" the Chef Mock Trial A Crime of the Deepest Dye Hackberry Peach Springs Seligman Gleed Ash Fork Phoenix Prescott The Fading of Sun- light Williams En route to the Grand Canyon " Special of Pittsburgh Commandery No. i " Incidents by the Way 246-257 CHAPTER XXIX. The Brilliant Dawn Gave Birth to the Morn Standing on the Rim of the Grand Canyon The Spectacle of Unparalleled Splendor The Vibrating Cloudlets in the Canyon Below The Sun Prevailed in Undisputed Authority Light and Shadow Mingled with Celestial Beauty The Canyon from Various Viewpoints Nature Itself God's Appointed Celebrant The Painted Desert Echo Cliffs Navajo Mountains A Great and Priceless Thing is a New Inter- est Going Down the Trail The Burro Has Its Disadvantages "My Kingdom for a Horse," or Else I Walk The Animals En- tering Upon Their Perilous Journey Self -Preservation Takes Possession of the Physique The " Cork-Screw " A Peep Into a Wonderland At the River Explorations of the Grand Can- yon The Colorado River The Upward Journey The Canyon in Sunset Darkness Falls and Night Brimmed Out of the Deep " Old John " Hance " The Seven Wonders " and the Wonder of Wonders Nature Sleeps The World Began to Move Again El Tovar Hotel An Impressive Tableau in the " Smoker " Inci- dents by the Way 257-275 CHAPTER XXX. " Bobbie's " Contract to be Awakened Early Williams, Arizona A Bridal Couple En route to Albuquerque Walnut Canyon Cliff- Dwellers and Cliff -Dwellings Flagstaff San Francisco Peaks Humphrey's Peak Buckskin Mountains Navajo Mountains White Mountains Canyon Diablo Meteorite Mountain Moki Indian Reservation The Hopi Indians The Indian Dance The Snake Dance Winslow The Painted Desert and Moki Buttes Mogollon Mountains Holbrook Fort Apache Ada- mana Petrified Forests Border Line Separating Arizona and New Mexico Arizona, the Ancient but New Southwestern Sun- land Entering New Mexico The Atmosphere of Old Spain Gallup Serenading the Bridal Couple Advice to the Bride and Groom Painful Stories, under Pressure Zuni Indian Reserva- XXii TABLE OP CONTENTS tion Navajo Indian Reservation Fort Wingate Thoreau Pueblo Bonito Chaves Bluewater Tintero Grant Zuni Mountains San Rafael McCarty's Acomita Cubero San Mateo Mountains Pueblo Indians Acoma, Laguna and Isleta Pueblos Mesa Encantada Life Among the Indians Albuquer- que Sir David Trading with the Indians Sir Kreps' Amazing Knowledge of the Indian Tongue Incidents by the Way 275-289 CHAPTER XXXI. Rio Grande del Norte and Galisteo Rivers Almeda Bernalillo Algodores Elota Thornton The Santa Domingo or Queres Tribe Corn Day Lamy Santa F Glorieta Pass Star- vation Peak Las Vegas Gallinas River The Town is Not Painted Red, but Well-read Raton Watrous Mora Canyon Fort Union Wagon Mound Springer Raton Mountains New Mexico, the Land in the Sky Rapid Strides of American Progress New Mexico, Its History and Future Dick Wooten's Toll-House Entering Colorado Trinidad A Bare Tale Prairie Dogs La Junta Las Animas Kit Carson Arapahoes, Kiowas and Cheyennes Tribes Big Timbers Fort Williams The Arkansas Valley Rocky Ford Lamar Holly Kansas State Line Fort Amity Syracuse, Kansas Garden City Dodge City Larned Pawnee Rock Great Bend Fort Za- rah The Santa F6 Trail Comanches and Pawnees Wagon Train Kansas' Indian Lore Hutchinson Burrton New- ton Florence Strong City Emporia Osage City To- peka The Free-State Constitution, Pro-Slavery Constitution, The Free-Soilers " Old John Brown " Kansas, the Leading State in the Corn Belt Studying Human Nature at Close Range, Types Differ in States Lawrence St. Joseph, Mo. Atchison Leav- enworth Kansas City St. Joseph Across the Tranquil Fields We Swept Incidents by the Way 289-300 CHAPTER XXXII. Arriving at Kansas City Tour of the City Johnston Completely Smitten by a Tired Baby Elephant The Missouri River Jefferson City Osage River The Wyandotte Indians Chillicothe Florida Mississippi River lola Public Entertainments on a Dry Goods Box Game of Billiards Open Debate in the " Wheat Pit " and the Discussion on Corn Memorable Demonstration at the Station En route to St. Louis Presentation Speeches March Upon the Com- missary Car Incidents by the Way 300-306 CHAPTER XXXIII. Arriving at St. Louis Meeting a Delegation From Home The Louisiana Purchase Exposition, The World's Fair Departure From St. Louis Sir Oscar's Race to the Station Homeward Bound In- cidents by the Way 306-31 1 TABLE OF CONTENTS xx iii CHAPTER XXXIV. Approaching the End Experiences of the Past Six Weeks "Davie" Traveling in State, in a Private Car Each Car Had Its Function as a Stage Upon Which We Enacted Our Life on the Rail The Circus Ring or Commissary Car The Burlesque Stage or " Stag " Coach The "Haven of Opera" or Third Coach The "Legiti- mate Performers " or Fourth Coach We Were Going Home Crossing the State Line Union Station, Pittsburgh Allegheny, the Good Old Home Folks Nature's Best Sentiment, Home In- cidents by the Way 311-314 CONCLUSION 315 IN MEMORI AM 320 CHAPTER I. ATURDAY, August 20, 1904, will long be cherished in the memories of members of Allegheny Commandery No. 35, Knights Templar and their guests on that occasion, as the be- ginning of a most delightful pilgrimage to California and re- turn. Promptly at eight o'clock in the morning the entire party was assembled at the train, which was especially chartered from the Pitts- burgh, Ft. Wayne & Chicago railway for the entire tour. It con- sisted of three of the most magnificent Pullman cars in the com- pany's service, together with a seventy-foot commissary car, fitted and supplied for the occasion. Although rain threatened early in the morning, a united plea to "Jupiter Pluvius" to withhold his orders for an hour or two at least, was answered. After many struggles, the effulgent rays of ''Old Sol" came peeping through the clouds from above dear old Allegheny's murky atmosphere. Our farewells to those whom we were to leave behind were spoken in the glad sunshine, and their expressed hopes for a pleasant jour- ney lent a significant brightness in contrast to the gloom of the early morning. With handshaking and good wishes of several hun- dred friends, the leave-taking scene at the station was an animated one. There was but one touch of pathos the sorrow of Sir Knight brothers unable to accompany us on the pilgrimage. While lend- ing cheer with kindly words, their anguish was plainly discernible on their faces. Bound by business necessities, or detained by the call of duty, they were compelled to remain behind, though their hearts yearned for the companionship, joys, and rich pleasures which the journey had in store, and the boundless interest and fellowship which the coming Conclave at the "Golden Gate" was sure to bring forth. Those countenances which looked up to us in the parting "au revoir" were inscribed with expressions that bespoke more eloquently than tongue could tell the sincere sentiment that prevailed in the innermost recesses of the heart and how those dear hearts did ache ! Our party numbered between sixty and seventy, citizens promi- nent in the affairs of the community, accompanied by their ladies who were to act as guardians and protectors to their lords and masters. The event was the culmination of many busy weeks of preparation and anticipation. The scene presented at the station that morning was a privilege to behold. Every condition controlled by God and man seemed to enter into harmony in making the initial step of this trans-continental tour an auspicious inauguration, and the transfiguration of what promised to be a gloomy and uninvit- ing day into one of sunshine and gladness, gave evidence of the sanction of the gods of the elements in setting forth their choicest raiment under which we might receive the "bon voyage" of our friends and brother Sir Knights on our trip of 10,000 miles through the wonderland of the west, where the creations ot the Almighty can be realized in the full beauty of nature's clothes unenshrouded and unblemished by the hand of man under pretext of "public im- provement." Thiough the bustle and activities of leave-taking the tourists were looking forward to the new and magnificent scenes which they were to behold, new acquaintances to be made, and the pleasure of being the guests of San Francisco, and attending that national reunion, the Twenty-ninth Triennial Conclave, Grand Encampment, Knights Templar of the United States of America. This event was set for September 3 to September 9, inclusive. While often California is chosen as the land to which invalids are sent, none of our gallant and sturdy band were in search of health, as the most casual observer could note, after gazing upon the smiling and wholesome faces of the tourists. It was indeed, a party qualified to participate in a journey replete with good cheer, animated with the spirit of brotherly and sisterly affection, an exemplification of genuine Masonic fraternity in all the term implies 'the fraternity of an order that in fact, as well as in name, preserves the dignity of manhood, age after age, no matter to what portion of the globe circumstances may carry its members. Suddenly in the height of the babel of exchanging farewells, given and taken for perhaps the hundredth time, the cold, unsympa- thetic peal of the engine bell rang out in supreme authority above the blending voices. With each succeeding clang the order "All-la- board," followed. A scatter of feet, a final "bon voyage," perhaps a kiss or two, a swish of skirts, and with a flutter of snowy handker- chiefs from car platforms and windows, which found equal exchange from those aground, the proud, majestic train glided gracefully out of the station, drawing from behind a prolonged cheer which distance seemed to swell into greater volume, aided by the resounding echoes from the hillsides. Several of the bravest "must-stay-at-homes" could not resist the A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 3 opportunity, and had climbed aboard before the final signal had been given, and accompanied us for a few hundred miles. In far-off Ohio towns they alighted and turned their faces homeward, after having enjoyed the cordial hospitalities of the wayfarers enroute. Upon leaving the train at such distant points as they dared to roam, they shouted their adieus after the parting train with an enthusiasm that rent the air and blended into echoes until no more distinct, though their eyes were set upon the fast disappearing' "special" until it gradually faded into a mere nothingness into the horizon. When well out on the way the early threat of rain was fulfilled. It poured but without the least tendency to dampen the ardor of our enthusiasm. It is safe to say that but few members of the party were cognizant of the fact that a storm was raging and little would they have cared. Previous to this hour all had been assigned to their respective quarters, which to each was to be a "home" for six weeks or more. The sign "welcome" had been placed above every door, and it was not the only sign that implied hospitality and good- fellowship. We had, indeed, become one big, happy family, all restrictions and formalities removed. The "stag" coach, or bachelor's apart- ments, had at once become the headquarters for fun and frolic, al- though the other coaches also resounded with merriment. "Faithful" Johnstone, a big, whole-souled colored man, was in charge of the commissary car, and soon fell in with the spirit of the occasion. His color did not even lend a shadow, and he was "white" in the most liberal sense of the expression. Early in the day he delivered his ultimatum : "Boo-oys jes' he'p you'selves ! Yaa-s sah ! Ha ! Ha ! Ha um !" and to the end he evinced a happy and ac- commodating spirit. The larders were abundantly stocked with the best the market afforded, including the best brands of cigars, most of which were natives of the banks of the Rhine, and donated by one of our worthy Sir Knights, who established an enviable reputation for smoothing out the rough places, and who, at all times, displayed an invincible spirit to further the interests of his fellowmen. It is perhaps need- less to add that the good things so liberally provided were partaken of as the trip progressed, much to the appreciation of the outer man and the satisfaction and contentment of the inner. "Luncheon redda' in the dinin' cah P was an oft-repeated an- nouncement, although it seemed a superabundance to partake of this invitation, considering the enticing offerings of the commissary car, which were lavishly and gratuitously offered. Time and again, throughout that long pilgrimage, the meals served in that self-same commissary car were among the best relished in the memory of 4 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE those fortunate enough to participate, even though the tops of trunks were made to serve as tables, and liquids had to be passed around with the rare skill of an accomplished equilibrist. The afternoon of the first day established a precedent for joviality that was maintained throughout the trip. Utter freedom from all care, and the glad anticipation of further pleasures to come, ruled supreme. Time passed rapidly too rapidly and with the approach of placid evening with its lengthening shadows, and the slow and gradual blotting out of the rural landscapes, spinning rapidly by, the merry travelers found no abatement in their merriment. If pos- sible, we were drawn more closely together in the bonds of human sympathy and fraternal brotherhood and sisterhood as the mantle of darkness was more tightly gathered about us, and the sun had gone to its rest beyond the wide reaches of the prairie land. We had seen the sun wink itself to sleep behind the clouds in the west, and as we were bound in that direction and at the highest possible speed we were assured that we would again catch up with "Old Sol" at dawn at the latest. Reaching Chicago at ten o'clock that night, our train was shifted over to the tracks of the Chicago & Northwestern railroad and en- tered the depot of that system. It was a happy party that rolled into the "Windy City." Few cared to venture from the station, nearly all being well acquainted with Chicago, having visited the metropolis of the inland seas pre- viously, and besides, the time to stay was limited. All left the train for a stroll on the platforms and finally visited the station- proper. Here scores of Sir Knights were met, some of whom claimed Chicago as their home, while others were making connections with this system, with the same mission and purpose in view which we cherished the pleasure of attending the Conclave at San Francisco. While these brother Sir Knights were strangers to our party, formal introduction was not even considered, and in a moment we were acquainted, one with the other, and the greetings exchanged, and the goodfellowship that prevailed for those few moments will ne'er be forgotten. Here, there and everywhere about the spacious corridors groups were gathered, chatting and laughing. Jests were ex- changed, stories told, and acquaintanceships cemented into friendship, with mutual satisfaction. The ladies entered into the spirit of the occasion with zest and joined with the wives and daughters of the brother Sir Knights who but a moment before had been unknown to us. To the ear it sounded as if a merry band of pickaninnies were taking recess; the spirited conversation (and it was far above the evenness of whisperings) conveyed the impression that bold revela- A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 5 tions were being made by the ladies, which at home might have been considered bosom secrets. Thus was expression given to the spirit which dominated the hearts of those but briefly acquainted, which, with one accord, sym- bolized all that is good, best and most wholesome in the sisterhood and brotherhood of mankind, the cornerstone of all fraternalism, and the highest pinnacle of civilization. Here it was we met Mr. C. A. Cairns, General Passenger Agent, Mr. S. A. Hutchison, Manager Tourist Department, Mr. R. B. Wil- son, Ticket Agent, and J. O. Clifford of the Chicago & Northwestern system, jovial, genial, affable comrades. They manifested a special interest in the welfare of our party, and the meeting with them was of the most pleasant and cordial nature, ending with an affectionate em- brace when they were forced to say "Good-bye." We were intro- duced to Mr. V. Z. Bayard, Tourist Agent for the company, who, Mr. Cairns said, would act as guardian for our party as far as Salt Lake City. He assured us that Mr. Bayard would be friendly dis- posed, and that before we were far out of Chicago we would be calling him "Vic." Indeed, "Vic" showed his cordiality at first sight, and was re- peatedly thereafter voted "the right man in the right place." This gentleman was familiar with every mile-post along the many miles of road we traveled with him, and was acquainted with every in- cident connected with the territory. In many instances he went beyond the mere discharge of his duty to see that we received the best of care. Need it be said that we all soon appreciated and valued his presence and branded him a real good fellow, and a hustler. Eleven o'clock, the hour for our departure, was at hand. At the doors of the station cabs with belated arrivals were whirling up to the curb unloading their charges, the carriage wheels and the horses' hoof-beats clattering musically along the paved streets. Richly attired ladies and children, escorted by Sir Knights, descend- ed and hurried into the station. All was now a bee-hive of anima- tion and confusion ; tickets were hastily bought and baggage checked ; a call on the Information Bureau inquiring for schedules ; Sir Knights who had not the important task of hunting their wives out of the crowds were busily engaged in hand-shaking and offering a parting farewell and God-speed to members of our party and to one another. The gong sounded. All passed into the enclosure where several long trains were in waiting, notably the cheerful inviting "Allegheny Special.' 5 The powerful nervous engine ahead was impatiently puff- ing, anxious to begin its relay contest with the prairie winds. "All-la-board!" shouted Mr. J. A. Woods, the genial Pull- 6 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE man conductor, smilingly. He called again and again, before he had his big family assembled under roof. The luxurious train was most inviting so cheerful, so full of light and color. It was to serve as a home on wheels for many days en route to "sunland." As the train pulled out of the station many of the "older folks" withdrew into their "homes" and retired for the night, while some of the Sir Knights stole a march as soon as their "better-halves" were fast asleep and joined the occupants of the "stag" coach in making a concerted march upon the commissary car. Here we gathered together for the quiet communion of kindred souls. The "special" quietly drew out of the city limits and was soon whirling away toward the Upper Mississippi and the broad State of Iowa, carrying as happy a party of pilgrims as ever left Allegheny City for the west. A glimpse from the windows, or an unobstructed view from the side doors of the commissary car, presented a grand kaleidoscopic, retrospective view of the illuminated metropolis of Chicago, like a moving panorama, fast disappearing from our sight. The route was now due west in a direct line through a chain of beautiful towns to Geneva, 35 miles out of Chicago, and the west- ern boundary line of its suburban district. Then across northern Illinois to the Mississippi River. The first stop was made at DeKalb, 58 miles west of Chicago. The train scarcely came to a stop until we again flew onward amid total darkness, broken only by the occasional glare from the fire-box of the engine reflecting its rays upon the glittering tracks on each side. The engineer calls for more steam. The scrape, scrape, scrape of the fireman's shovel resounds through the stilly night. Each shovel of coal as it was hurled into the bowels of the furnace was clearly heard in the commissary car. We raced onward faster, and still faster through the mantle of darkness and in a short time Dixon was reached, 98 miles west of Chicago. The town is near Rock River, in a region somewhat famous in Indian history. Scores of Indian mounds still remain and now serve as the sole monuments to commemorate the red man. Yes, it was now two o'clock, Sun- day morning, rather late for sight-seeing, and the greater portion of the party were asleep and dreaming of further pleasures to be real- ized. Johnstone rubbed his eyes, rested his huge and weary frame against the substantial refrigerator and remained awake no longer. Within another brief hour we crossed the Mississippi River be- tween Fulton, Illinois, and Clinton, Iowa, but owing to the late, or more accurately, the early hour, this event was not witnessed by many. The few who were "up and doing" began to rub their e>es and after remarking that the events of the day had not fatigued them in the least, voluntarily agreed to join their comrades in C. & N-ff. Ry. THE FOX RIVER AT GENEVA. The view up and down Fox River Valley, just before entering Geneva, is one in which rolling uplands, fertile and highly cultivated, form the background, while, nearer at hand, the city nestles among the trees in quiet contrast to the sparkling waters of the river. PANORAMIC VIEW OF DIXON. ROCK RIVER NEAR STERLING. The Pictureique C. & N-ff. Rf. The valley of the Rock River was the scene of many stirring events in the early days of territorial history ; the beautiful region hereabouts was one of the favorite hunting grounds of the Indians, and what are supposed to be Indian mounds still exist near Sterling. Many events in the Black Hawk war transpired in this region. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 7 sweet slumbers over the Chicago & Northwestern to "dreamland." Silently they crept into their respective couches and all was good- night. Henceforth no member of the jolly party was conscious of what transpired during the ensuing few hours, for all were enjoying a well-earned and deserving rest, as the God of providence carried them onward. Thus the chapter of events of the first day was re- corded, full of good cheer and sweet reminiscences, now passed and gone, but ever in memory never to be forgotten. CHAPTER II. T the break of dawn, as though some celestial fairy had passed her wand over our brows, we awoke from sweet repose, and at once became aware, and forcibly impressed with the fact, that there was an "Alarm Clock" aboard. This masterpiece of creation, or intricacy of musical mechanism, was in the human form of Sir Joseph J. Gilchrist, the "Honorable," from the "State of Allegheny " marching up and down the aisle of the "stag" coach shouting at the top of his voice: "Get up, boys! Get up and see the sun rise!" Many of the boys thrust their heads between the curtains, which lent privacy to their berths, to ascer- tain what particular specie of creature had been encountered on the western plains. They beheld "Joe," wearing that ever-present and never-failing congenial smile, so cheerful and inviting that any incentive toward censure is driven away, no matter how serious the offense may be. "Hurry, hurry, hurry, boys, and see the sun rise!" he again com- mands. "Ah, we don't want to see any sun rise !" was the verdict in chorus. This announcement, followed by a little brotherly ad- vice, appeared to have the desired effect and "Joe" humbly retired to his seat. Back go all heads behind the folds of each respective curtain, with every assurance that quietude would again prevail. The silence, however, was not destined to be long-lived, for in a moment "Joe" made his second appearance, this time armed with every instrument of torture in the catalogue of unmusical and hid- eous things. "If they won't get up, I'll make them !" he insisted. The racket was awful. Those not awakened at the first call surely be- lieved themselves victims of an Indian raid, accompanied by all the horrors of the war dance. "Joe" succeeded brilliantly in forcing an audience to the rise of the sun, and upon each subsequent morn- 8 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE ing during the entire tour the "Alarm Clock" was in working order and all viewed the sun rise every day, thanks to "Joe's" undeniable request. With such a startling initiative all were early risers that Sabbath morning. Exchanged inquiries as to individual conditions brought the uniform response: "Bully, never felt better." However, an epidemic of hunger prevailed in its keenest ravage, and relief was at once offered by a few raps on the door of the commissary car. This served to awaken Johnstone, who, ever ready, catered to the inner feelings of those dependent upon him. With contentment within, all returned to the vestibule car and took an unprejudiced look at one another. Never did there ap- pear to be more gladness in the air. The spirit of charity and com- panionship that was ushered in with the morning was boundless. The rain of the day before made the air cool and refreshing, as well as allaying the dust. Traveling was most delightful such brightness in the sun such beauteous prairie country. We passed numerous towns and villages and found interest in the moving about of the inhabitants. Cedar Rapids was reached shortly before six o'clock. This typical Iowa city is beautifully situated on the Cedar River. Its buildings, streets and cleanliness pay high tribute to the character of the people who inhabit it. The city gives evidence of a thriving industrial center, as well as a community of refinement and culture. Journeying from Cedar Rapids we passed Belle Plain and Tama. At Tama we beheld Indians for the first time on our pilgrimage and immediately cameras were focused upon them. The red men se- riously objected at first, not because they had not been educated to the harmless effects of this weapon, but because they demanded recompense before posing. Sir Reese would not be convinced that the Indians were other than cheap imitations and attempted to strengthen his position in the matter by citing as a comparison the crimson complexion as portrayed by the Allegheny City street salesmen of cigar stores. He was finally convinced of his error b}' Sir Robert making the point that the Tama Indians were not well read men. This town boasts of an Indian reservation where a remnant of the Sacs and Foxes still find a home. The community derives its name from a once famous Sac chief, Ta-E-Maih. At this hour breakfast was enjoyed in the dining car, after which we were reminded that it was Sunday and that the day should be fittingly observed. Suggestions were immediately made that ser- vices be held, but the fact at once became apparent that none had the foresight to bring with them that which is most important and essential for such ceremony. THE .IOWA RIVER NEAR TAMA ON THE INDIAN RESERVATION AT TAMA The Picturesque C. & N-W. Ry. BRIDGE AT CLINTON. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 9 "Oh !" cried one of the Sir Knights with boundless joy, "Eureka ! I have found it! McFarland has brought a bible with him!" The announcement of this discovery brought the unanimous expression that Sir McFarland should officiate. Sir McFarland, being the youngest Sir Knight in the party, had previously been dubbed "The Kid of York." He has an established reputation for overburdened generosity and is always willing to respond to the call of duty for the good of any cause. However, notwithstanding his infallible willingness, there was a decided hitch in the announced program. Several of the older heads were in con- sultation. The would-be communicants became anxious. Evidently a disagreement existed as to whether or not McFarland should of- ficiate. Suddenly the diplomats separated and one of the Sir Knights arose and made the following startling statement: "I am informed that our worthy Sir Knight has not only brought a bible with him but a gun as well, consequently I deem it extremely unwise for this assemblage to consent in having him administer the gospel. Just picture the 'Kid,' " he continued, with a smile, "with a bible in one hand and a gun in his hip pocket. It is dangerous," he exclaimed dramatically, "such preparation and equipment might have been necessary in these parts in the days of 'Kit Carson,' but times and things have changed; and furthermore, this is not the time and place." The general sentiment seemed to be that the pilgrims did not take kindly towards having religion administered with the aid of a revolver. McFarland tried to explain that the gun referred to was nothing but an innocent and inoffensive bazoo one of the tin horns which Sir Edward J. Burry had brought with him. However, there was no service that day, and it is said that the good-natured "Kid" did not use the bible during the entire trip, unless it was in the seclusion of his private sanctum sanctorum. Luncheon was served about the time we reached Dennison, 424 miles west of Chicago and about 68 miles east of Omaha. The train entered the Boyer Valley along which lays the route into the Mis- souri Valley. Here the broad lowlands of the Missouri come into sight on the right, and the road skirts the Missouri bluffs on the left for 20 miles, until Council Bluffs is reached. At this point we crossed the river and entered Omaha at 3 :45 o'clock in the afternoon, entering the city over a great steel bridge which spans the river between the two cities and the two states. Council Bluffs itself has a population of 26,000, while within a radius of six miles around the beautiful Union Station in Omaha is an estimated population of 165,000. Council Bluffs is the older of the two cities, Omaha (named after the Omaha Indians) da- 10 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE ting her history as a town from 1854, when, upon passage of the Kansas-Nebraska bill, the latter state was thrown open for settle- ment. Omaha is the metropolis of this section of the West and is a jobbing and distributing point of much importance and is rapidly growing as a manufacturing center. The city abounds in all the luxuries and conveniences of a modern city. Our party remained in Omaha 35 minutes until connections were made with the Union Pacific Railroad. During this brief stay we were most hospitably entertained by the Sir Knights and citizens of that city, among whom were such honorable gentlemen as Mr. E. L. Lomax, General Passenger Agent Union Pacific Railroad Com- pany, Mr. G. B. Bondesson and friends and Mr. L. Beindorff, who, for those brief moments, entertained us in the manner for which this "Magic City" is noted. The following morning the "Omaha Bee" published a column article regarding our arrival. A reproduction, in part, follows: PITTSBHRG 'PARTY GOES WEST Knigfcts Templar and Families Pass Through to San Francisco. RELISH THE PURE AIR OF NEBRASKA Easterners Are Smitten vritli Hospi- tality of West and Cannot Get Too. Much of its FresU 0BO'KC.< The liveliest delegation of Knight? Tfem- Ular to pass .through Omaha, for San Francisco to attend their conclave since the procession started . was the Allegheny commandery, No. 36. It came In over ti*e Northwestern from Chicago at 3:40 yester- day afternoon And left at 4:15 for Denver over the Union Pacific. The party numbered about eighty men and women, and every man fend yvomap was loaded down with literature and cards showing what, a particular good brand of Knights Templar iHttsburg ^urns out, tor they were all from the Smoky City. Every person who visited their special train was welcomed with a hospitality equal to that of the west To -the Omaha visitors at tne station, the 'tourists created considerable amusement as they alighted from the train. Each and every one of them drew a .deep, long breath and Jtept on j Indatlnsr their lungs with ptaro Nebraska air. ',' th '.rain were CROSSING THE "HAWKEYE" STATE turtiquc C. & N-lf. /. i" CROSSING THE GREAT PRAIRIES OF IOWA. THE MISSOURI RIVER VALLEY. C. Gf N-lf. Rv. That portion of the trip which extends from Missouri Valley to Council Bluffs skirts the eastern bluffs of the Missouri through one of the greatest corn-producing regions in existence. The fertile loam of the Missouri River A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 11 As we left Omaha over the admirably equipped line of the Union Pacific railroad, we at once entered the valley of the Platte and followed that broad and shallow stream to its forks at North Platte. We had traveled but a short distance when our train came to a standstill at Millard, 20 miles out of Omaha. We were informed that there was a freight wreck ahead and there were probabilities of a delay of several hours. The "probabilities" proved true to the letter and we remained in that village three hours. The pilgrims soon learned to adapt themselves to the conditions, and life became a systematic search for diversity. Time did not hang heavy on our hands by any manner of means. Most of the party left the train and were soon amused in various pastimes, a few of which might be enumerated as follows: Game of baseball non-professional rules several lady partici- pants. This ended dramatically. Sir William A. Seiling hit the ball for what looked like a home run. It landed on the bell of the loco- motive and the game was called many rushing for the train. Foot-race down the railroad track and a demonstration in equilib- rium ladies only. The deftness in balancing, as shown from the lofty height of a steel rail was thrilling. Concert by the brass band Sir Oscar Schulze director. Oscar rolled up his sleeves and ordered the band to play every tune on record (both gold-moulded and Edison) ; also some tunes that have not as yet been placed on record. Dancing to the music of the band. Set of two Sir Oscar and Sir Harry W. no callers. Charmed by the sweet strains, and in- different as to time or place, and particularly innocent of the fact that there was a spectator or two, they essayed a Virginia reel on the Nebraska green sward. There was more real reel about this tripping of the light fantastic than the spectators had ever previous- ly seen. The dance lasted but a few moments, or until a can of lemonade perched on a soap box had been turned over. Although the natives informed us that things as sour as lemonade turn, in that climate, from slighter provocation, it was nevertheless conceded that one of the dancers upset the lemonade. Probably one of the most impressive entertainments indulged in at Millard was the presentation of a drama, depicting larceny on the western plains, entitled "Taking Things from Dumb Animals," in which Sir Robert J. Bovard essayed the star role, assisted by a Jersey cow. The cow in question was peacefully browsing on the meadow land when the drama opened. Sir "Bobby" and the cow exchanged glances at the same moment, and while the latter gave no expression of affection, "Bobby" at once acknowledged a thirst for milk. With- out any formal introduction "Bobby" made his advances and was 12 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE soon milking the cow. Several followed, while the cow continued to chew her cud in silence. Finally, when she found herself the con- centrated object of too general attention, she hurried away, swing- ing her tail in triumph. The owner of that cow still remains among the unidentified, but it is reasonable to suppose that he and the cow had words that night over the quality and quantity of milk at hand. For Millard and its 300 inhabitants it was a gala day of strange experiences and unrestricted joy that did not even find a parallel on the annual circus day. Shortly after seven o'clock the wreckage had been cleared away and we started. We stopped again a hundred yards away to take aboard a few ladies who were threatened with isolation on the plains, having strayed off out of hearing of the call "all aboard!" Once on the way the engineer began clipping off the miles at a rapid rate in an endeavor to regain every possible moment before reaching Denver on the morrow. Many methods were employed to keep the party amused. Our music consisted of the well-mixed strains of a grind-organ and a bag-pipe which were a little asthmatic, and inclined to catch their breath where they ought to come out strong; a clarinet and a bass drum, which were a little unreliable on the high notes and rather melancholy on the low; a disreputable accordion that had a leak somewhere and breathed louder than it squawked ; Burry's bazoo jew's-harp, etc., through which the "Ter rible quartette sang(?) the singing was voted worse than the in- strumental renditions, although we all enjoyed it hugely, and suffered it gladly. About the time the music was losing its charm "Vic" hurriedly requested us to be on the lookout and he would show us where we would eventually arrive. By a peculiar coincidence the next thing that presented itself was a graveyard. "Vic," however, was innocent of perpetrating a pun on us. He referred to the town of Columbus, Nebraska, which we reached a few minutes later. This was the place which in the '60's George Francis Train declared to be the geographical center of the United States, and for that reason advo- cated the removal of the National Capital to the Valley of the Platte. Here our train entered upon a stretch of track, which, for 40 or more miles in length, is as straight as it is possible for man to build. The telegraph poles on both sides (looking backward), presented the appearance of two solid walls of timber surmounted by endless lines of wire. The railroad tracks between narrowed into a shin- ing streak in the background. The entire state of Nebraska proved to be a marvelously rich farming country. Hundreds of fields of corn and wheat, and pass- A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 13 ture dotted with fat cattle, were viewed. Up to 1866 buffalo were numerous in this section and all of the region lends the basis of thrilling tales of Indian days. As late as 1897 the Indians captured and burned a train of cars near Lexington. All the savagery has been wiped out recently and the tale of the frontier remains an un- sung lyric to battle and continuous endeavor for civilization that has rarely been equalled in deeds of valor and courage. We arrived in North Platte early in the morning. Here central standard time, used thus far, is changed to the mountain standard, one hour slower than central (or two hours slower than Pittsburgh). Not a member of our party was awake to adjust his watch, every soul had drifted drowsily but happily away into the vast mysterious void which men call sleep. CHAPTER III. ONDAY morning the "Alarm Clock" opened a relentless bom- bardment. He stalked abroad with his customary invitation to view the rise of the sun, and there was no chance to evade the request. All arose fresh from a good night's sleep, and the cool invigorating prairie air was refreshing. At a mass meeting held in the "stag" coach a program for the day was arranged, and was so brimful of diversity that the program could not possibly stand a border if presented in printed form. The mass meeting was open to all comers everyone had a right, and was expected to make a suggestion. In consequence everyone was talking and listening at the same time, and many pearls of the King's anVl Queen's English fought for supremacy with the prairie winds. Even at this early hour, without breakfast to sustain us under the ordeal, the consumptive accordion was given voice in the dis- cussion. The proud musician, with the bandbox on his left knee, was swaying his head to and fro, whistling much of the accompani- ment which the accordion refused to render, even under pressure. Biff! Bang! With the velocity of a shooting star a very ripe cantaloupe alighted on the veteran music box. There was an at- mospheric phenomenon, and like a bursting constellation, scattered its component elements in every direction. The instrument fell to the floor in humiliation while the erstwhile star performer arose with every indication of injured pride. All the members of the audience had observed the fruit pass through space, although the musician had no knowledge that he was the attracting force of a flying sphere 14 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE until the contact took place. He figured with astronomical skill that the planet had come from a northwesterly direction, about 72 de- grees south. Of course the moment the planet struck all disturb- ing elements in the air were removed. But as Leininger, the once proud but now much offended musi- cian arose, he tenderly placed the accordion on the radiator to dry out and turning suddenly upon his audience dramatically exclaimed: "I bet one doll-ar I know what threw that bunch of bananas! It komes frum dat latitude," pointing his index finger with unerring aim in the direction of Sir Edward Kunberger. "It was 'Kunnie.' 'Kunnie' he is jealous because I will make a speech to-day. He accuses me of possessing a gift of silvery language!" "Kunnie," unable to shield his guilt any longer, entered a counter complaint, and publicly denounced Leininger as being the "man who ate the soap." The accusation was voted of grave importance, and it was agreed to try both of the accused at the same time. Sir H. Glen Sample was unanimously elected counsel for both parties con- cerned. The "Rowdy Bunch" were chosen as jurymen and counselor Sample presented both cases and both defenses with due formality and grave concern. He maintained, however, that no charge could be made for the cantaloupe, as it had been thrown in. Before the case had been concluded the foreman of the jury announced that a verdict had been reached, whereupon the jurymen, as if with one voice, sang their verdict in the following verse: "It may be so for all we know, It sounds to us like a lie " "First call for breakfast," cried the porter at this point, and the jury- men, leaping from their seats of judgment, made a "center rush" for the dining car. From our seats at the table, we observed an impressive panorama unfolding itself over the prairie land. The sun was slowly rising and threw a warm glow over the landscape, suffusing the picture with a world of coloring. Hot fried chicken, mutton chops, omelets, fried potatoes, coffee and many other excellent and palatable offerings comprised the bill- of-fare. We ate while passing through Sutherland and Paxton, two rural towns, and left the breakfast table about the time Ogallala was reached. This town derives its name from the Brule Sioux, a band of Indians of which "Spotted Tail" was the chief. This was the most powerful of Indian tribes in latter day history, numbering at one time nearly 10,000 warriors. A few miles north of Ogallala, is Ash Hollow, a noted Indian camping ground, and the scene of a great victory over them by General Harney in 1859. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 15 Nebraska was rapidly sinking away in the rear. We had seen no land fade away from/ view with more regret. Her prairie was so unsurpassingly lovely, clad in living green, ribbed with rich vege- tation, spotted with fattened cattle, and flecked with white cottages. Here and there, the lands were riven by deep canals built by the untiring toil of the early settlers, and the sparkling waters that coursed these artificial channels, quenched the thirst of a thousand miles of cultivation. The superb picture was fittingly crowned with the harvest of towering wheat and hay stacks, the fruits o trie earth, and the brawn creators for man and beast. No longer is this the land of treachery, which the teachings of our school-boy days led us to believe. The blood of Nebraska's forefathers has made pos- sible the achievements of to-day. Fair Nebraska, with its still youth- ful but eventful history, has made gigantic yea, marvelous strides to possess and maintain "Peace on earth, good-will toward men." That it has succeeded in rearing the fruits of its choice is shown on every hand. The pioneer road over which we traveled this day had cost many hundreds of lives to construct. There were constant, al- most daily battles with the desperadoes and red men before it was completed. Arriving at Julesburg, we found ourselves in Colorado. This station is the diverging point for Denver, 197 miles south. We stopped here for a short time. The town at first glance offered little interest to the traveler, but when a brief hint was given of its legends, the listener gave undivided attention. In 1865, the Overland Stage Company had an important station at Julesburg, at which point large supplies were accumulated and stored. Troops were scattered all along the routes, and were fre- quently compelled to escort the stages from station to station be- cause of the hostile red men. Many conflicts were waged in the neigh- borhood of Julesburg. On January 7, 1875, the Sioux and Cheyennes, numbering over 1,000, attacked Fort Sedgwick, then occupied by a force of about 50 men. The attack was repulsed, but not without severe loss. On February 2, 1875, they attacked and burned the station of the stage company at Julesburg. Many similar incidents in frontier history mark the history of the town. It takes its name from Jules Bernard, an old French-Canadian, who was famous in eastern Colorado and southern Nebraska in the days of the emi- grant wagon trains. Our journey since leaving the level lands of Iowa was along the natural grades formed by the water courses and consequently thus far our travel was free from heavy grades. The country we en- tered upon leaving Julesburg was occupied almost exclusively by stock raisers, their ranch houses being situated on both sides of 16 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE the river. Some have large tracts of land enclosed for winter ranges and enjoy sidings for shipping stock. The greater number, how- ever, depend entirely upon the public range, both winter and sum- mer. Skirting the river, the first station of importance reached was Sterling, situated in the midst of a large and rich tract of bottom land on the Platte River. Our train stopped for 20 minutes, and in accord with usual custom, the members of our party stepped down upon terra firma and devoted themselves in taking snap shots at everything, whether usual or unusual. The most attracting incident at Sterling was the sight of a cow- boy, in true western regalia, galloping across the plain, and bearing down toward the train. As he halted, the greater portion of our party advanced for an interview. The conversation naturally led to a discussion of his horse. We noticed that the -winning quality of the animial's nature was his great friendliness toward his master. He was continually sniffing at the clothing of his master and thrust- ing his head under the cowboy's elbow begging to have his forehead rubbed. The noble animal gave every evidence of fondness and affection for him whom he served. We were inclined to believe the noble animal most docile and the cowboy at once took advantage of his audience and started to give a performance. By a mere indication of the bridle-hand, he turned him to right or left, and by raising his hand, without the slightest pressure on the bit, he brought his charger to a short and sudden stop. And how well the animal understood the maneuvers desired by his cowboy master. The animal was turned loose "after the bunch." He then gave a clear portrayal of rounding up cattle. All the rider had to do was to stick to him. This was no mean task, for he turned like a flash, and was as quick as a cat on his feet. "Go on," was the only command necessary, and the horse was off like the wind. Sir W. G. Reel became possessed of the desire to determine whether or not he could ride the animal. The cowboy gracefully consented that the experiment be tried. As Reel climbed astride the horse the rest of the party were inclined to turn away and be spared the sight of seeing one of our number reduced to fractions. We trembled for him both in admiration of his courage and in sor- row of what we anticipated, and mentally fixed a valuation of "thirty cents" on his future prospects. But he finally got astride. We thought we could see him flying across the prairie and rapidly draw- ing near the horizon. Fortunately, the owner had his horse well trained, crying: "Whoa! Do you want to run away and break your neck?" The animal responded with almost human intelligence, A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 17 and stood motionless. So submissive did he obey, that he gave every outward indication of desiring to lean against something and think. Our friend, the cowboy, informed us that the horse had but a single fault. His tail had been chopped off, or else he had sat down upon it too hard, and was compelled to fight flies with his heels. "He also reaches around and bites my leg," complained the owner. "I do not care particularly about that, only I don't believe a horse should be too sociable." With this startling information the mem- bers of our party could not but reflect how very fortunate it was that there were no ambitious flies about while Sir Reel was astride the horse. As the train bore us southward short stops were made at Sny- der, Fort Morgan and LaSalle. Ranch life in all its attractiveness was laid before us, as if upon the pages of an open book. Green pastures and productive fields were being reared from the arid lands by aid of artificial irrigating canals which supply moisture in the face of cloudless skies. Onward we sped through great stock farms, passing countless grazing herds that told of wealth and thrift." After a short run through these productive fields we reached Brighton, but 19 miles out of Denver, and often classed as one oj the suburbs of that city. Leaving Brighton, there was great activity and much skirmishing among members of the party. The anima- tion increased until it rivaled the excitement attending a company of firemen about to answer a midnight alarm. "Somebody swiped my coat !" announces one. "Say, Shook, have you got a collar button?" "Porter! Porter! Brush me up a little!" came the command from several quarters at the same time. "Yas sar! in a minute deed dare am 'bout 22 ahead ob you!" "Whoa, 'Kunnie,' don't forget your camera," came the advice from one section of the car, while above the babel of chattering voices some of the following expressions were clearly audible : "Hully gee ! I'd give four dollars if I were shaved !" "Davie, are you going to wear your fatigue cap?" "Why cer-tain-ly !" "Then loan me your hat, someone sat down on mine and I can't get at my cap eleven trunks fell on my suitcase !" And the ladies! Bless their hearts! They were right at home aboard the train. The quest for hair-pins and hat-pins and efforts to ascertain whether "it was on straight" made life on the rail equal to that in the boudoir. As toilets were being completed we glided into Union Station to the slow music of the engine. "Den-verrrrrrr ! Den-ver!" called the brakeman. All stood ready to pay homjage to the "Queen City of the Plains," which is distinguished for her progress and modern methods. What excel- (2) 18 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE lent order is maintained in the vast Union Station ! No frantic crowd- ing and jostling ; no shouting ; no confusion ; no swaggering intru- sion by rowdy hackmen negotiating for fares. The latter gentry stood along the curb line outside the station, beside their long line of con- veyances, and held their peace. We had no need for their services at that time. The Committee had wired the Denver Traction Company the day before to have a "Seeing Denver" special car in waiting for us at the depot. With this in mind our party wended its way through the station and took a position on a corner facing the depot, seeking in vain for the car that was not there. Investigation brought to light the fact that the freight wreck, which had caused three hours' delay at Millard, had played havoc with the schedule, and that the anticipated palatial trolley car had grown weary of its wait and had been returned to the barns. Un- der the circumstances no one could be held accountable for the dis^- appointment, and the joviality of the party was in itself sufficient to insure the good humor of everybody. Passersby looked on with interest and inquired what it was all about. Within a few minutes the whole business section of the city was aware of the fact that the pilgrims had arrived and a dozen mes- sengers were dispatched to the offices of the traction company. The delay afforded us ample opportunity to become acquainted with the surroundings. The picture presented, slowly but surely brought the realization of the blissful consciousness that we were at last beyond question, in the beautiful city of Denver. With absorbing interest, and in blissful forgetfulness of all else, we soon became enwrapped in the romantic phase of our pilgrimage, in all its enchanting de- lightfulness. Denver, situated as it is, on the last of the great plains, and upon the threshold of the Rockies, whose peaks were profiled against the clouds in the distance, was sufficient to remove any tinge of disappointment in our short delay, and gave us the opportunity to feast our eyes upon the sublime, as the pendulum of our thoughts swung from plains to mountains ; from mountains to plains again. In the distance we could see the outer edge of the foot-hills and the beginning of the rocks that climb, climb, ever climb upward, until capped by the white purity of the everlasting snowbanks that link them with the mysteries of the unknown in the azure firma- ment. Towering in majestic but silent eloquence are the hoary his- toric mountains, such as Long's Peak, the Cheyenne and Sierra Blanca. Further to the south loom up the Spanish Peaks time senti- nels of history and geology. Magnificent ranges stand out about us in serried ranks, lifting their heads far up into the empyrean blue. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 19 They mark the scene where nature has sculptured vast areas, and bracketed them in the heavens as mantle-pieces for the skies. As we gazed out upon the prospect we realized it was but the raising of the first curtain upon scenes which we would behold on the morrow. From Denver we could see the ripples that would swell into waves of beauty in the grandeur of the Rocky Mountains that roll onward in sublimity toward the Pacific Ocean. Thus Nature in the west greeted us with an alluring smile. "Here comes the car!" "Oh my! What do you think of that?" the ladies were heard to exclaim. "Impossible! Can't be it!" an- nounced a dozen voices in amazement. As the car bore down up- on us it had every appearance of a tub upon storm-tossed waters ; it zigzagged and pendulumed from side to side as if carrying water on both shoulders, and yet undecided which shoulder to favor. As the "boat" arrived the sudden stop and application of the brakes re- sulted in creating a most hideous noise, not unlike the dumping of a cartload of cobble stones upon a surface of sheet iron. Burry at once explained: "Boys! That's the salute!" Whereupon we all humbly but gracefully bowed in recognition. We then carefully scrutinized the antediluvian curiosity with keen interest. It would have made a cherished specimen for the national museum of an- tiquities, or could have been condemned to the junk heap without in- trinsic loss to anyone. A banner bearing the invitation: "See Denver by Trolley," was stretched across the "cow-catcher," or fender. The muslin ban- ner served a two-fold purpose to advertise the enterprise as well as shield from view the absence of bolts from places most neces- sary. Strangers are prone to mistake these cars for sand cars, al- though they are entitled to marked respect, owing to their advanced age and the many years they have engaged in faithful service. While there were evidences that the car had once experienced the robust full-bloom of youth, it was now rapidly wasting away in the street. Perhaps the car still had hopes in the rarefied air of Denver. However, it was finally agreed to trust ourselves to the mercies of the car. As we started to board the "Pullman" the conductor cautiously "sized us up," one by one, explaining that it was necessary that the passengers be properly distributed, and seated in such posi- tion as to keep the car balanced. It was evident that the tonnage exceeded the capacity of the car for the body of the car sank down until it rested upon the wheels with a groan. We started, and as the car shot forward with the speed and grace of a team of oxen, the wheels sent forth a continual piercing grind that appealed strongly to our sympathies. The drop doors in the floor of the car were well worn off their hinges, and each time 20 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE the car bumped its way over a crossing the jolting of the primitive motors sent the doors up to smite the passengers, as if in protest against their burdensome task. It soon became evident that there had been a miscalculation in the division of the tonnage. There was, apparently, too much avoirdupois on the right side or to be more correct, on the wrong side. Difficulty was found in maintaining the equilibrium of the car. It moved along with a see-saw motion that became more pro- nounced as the conductor waded through the aisle. An announcer, with megaphone in hand, had taken his station at the head of the car, and he, by the way, as well as the conductor, was polite and obliging, and both deserved a better fate. The an- nouncer began to open fire with his volley of information, not only identifying and explaining everything that presented itself along the route but also entered into a general description and history of the city itself. "Ladies and gentlemen! Denver the capital the commercial center and principal city in the state of Colorado ! Fifteen miles east of the Rocky Mountains on a level plain 5,196 feet above the sea! In the 46 years since its origin, this village of miners grew into the handsome ' Queen City of the Plains.' " The Union Pacific Railway route across the continent was the first constructed. It was opened in 1869 and greatly encouraged travel to the Pacific coast. "Denver is also called 'The Great City of the Rockies.' You will note the snow-capped summits in the west in a magnificent and un- broken line, in view for 170 miles from Pike's Peak in the north to Long's Peak ; with many intermediate summits, most of which rise 14,000 feet. Denver stands on a high plateau through which the South Platte River flows. It has a population of 134,000, gathered from all sections of the globe. It shelters many manufacturing en- terprises, and some of the most extensive and important ore smelt- ing works in the world! The annual output of silver and gold is enormous ! "The high elevation and healthful climate make it a beneficial resort for those suffering from pulmonary ailments. The artesian water supply has no equal in the world, being taken from more than 300 wells, running from 380 to 1160 feet beneath the city! This water is as clear and pure as the flawless crystal! Forty-eight miles south of the city Denver has built for its water works the highest dam in the world. The city was named in honor of General James W. Denver, an early governor of Kansas and a soldier in the Civil War. He first suggested Colorado as the name (for what was then) a territory. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 21 "Note the great Colorado Front Range, or eastern ridge of the Rockies, stretching gradually across the country with ranges in the rear extending far into the west to the Utah Pass. Towering be- hind the front range, is Saguache Range, the chief ridge of the Rockies, which forms the Continental Divide. "Among these complicated ranges are various extensive parks and broad valleys, nestling among peaks and ridges, and which were originally the beds of inland lakes. Out of these mountains, flow scores of rivers in every direction; the affluents of the Mississippi to the east, the Rio Grande to the south and the Colorado and Colum- bus to the west." The announcer next called attention to the public buildings, cathedrals, churches, schools, playhouses, and the palatial and well- appointed hotels. Smilingly he referred to the street car system, and as a fitting climax, the motor of our car burnt out at the moment he attained the height of his eulogy. Here we were detained for a time and patiently sat in our palatial gondola awaiting assistance. A good Samaritan, in the form of one of the regulation city traction cars appeared, and becoming attached to our car, both in spirit and by means of a coupling pin, valiantly towed us into the nearest car-barn. Our fond expectations for a more modern vehicle were wrested from us, for entering the car-barn, we beheld several more ''Seeing Denver" trucks resting upon the tracks. Among the employees of the barn these antiques were known under the names of "Adam," "Methusela," "Jacob" and "Isaac" all the ancient patriarchs being honored in one of these relics of time. We were quickly transferred into another ancient car, and as it repulsed the idea of further service with painful groans while slowly wending its way upon the main tracks, the announcer con- tinued his "speil," enumerating the industries of the city. "The building on your left," he continued, "is the public library with over 100,000 volumes. On your left is a public school, of which there are 60 in the city, with a daily attendance of 26,000 pupils and 580 teachers. To your right the law schools and medical college. ^Approaching on the left, is Uhe Denver Club, erected at a cost of a quarter of a million dollars the Denver Athletic Club, a $225,000 structure. Here is the University Club; yonder the Woman's Club, with a membership of over 1,000." We then passed through a residential section of the city lined with beautiful homes and intersected by broad avenues lined with shade trees and magnificent lawns. Denver is almost exclusively a city of brick and stone ; the buildings with few exceptions, are costly and substantial, and thoroughly modern in appointments. The State 22 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE Capitol is graced with a lofty dome, and stands on a high eminence, making it visible from all points of the city. It was erected at a cost of $2,500,000. As we bounded along the car shook and groaned terribly. Pas- sengers were rolling from one end to the other. Momentarily we expected to see our bones protruding through our skins. After a succession of fearful bumps, we found ourselves bobbing along rather smoothly. Sir Samuel Coombs, with a sincerity born of hope, expressed the cheerful sentiment : "We are going a bit smoother, I see." "Yes," announced Sir C. C. Heckel, "We're off the track now." His declaration was true to the letter. We had traveled several hundred feet without touching a rail. The conductor and the an- nouncer at once entered into an impromptu debate as to a method of relief, when Sir Harry Kreps offered a practical suggestion, which was at once acted upon, and we were again upon the rail. Were it not for the uncertainty of the route, all would have preferred to re- main off the tracks. Proceeding slowly onward, we soon found ourselves at one of Denver's beautiful parks. A picturesque sight was presented. Scat- tered about, were rustic seats and benches in secluded nooks that were dark with shade. Rivulets of crystal water; lakelets with grassy banks; glimpses of sparkling cascades through openings in wildernesses of foliage ; streams of clear water gushing from artificial knots on trunks of huge trees all aided to form the beauty of the picture. Many airy lookouts are provided here where one might gaze up- on broad expanses of landscape. Banks of rare flowers lent fragrance to the air. The customary park sign, "Keep off the grass," was ab- sent, but instead, placards were prominently displayed bearing the inscription: "Keep in the path." The command to keep within the narrow confines of the "path," was the source of much merriment to members of our party. Many acknowledged having tried to keep within this command of seeking the "straight and narrow path" for some time. After squirming around the city for a short time our car finally brought up near the beginning of our expedition. It might be said here, in justice to the Denver Street Car Company, that the "Seeing Denver" cars are controlled by a different company than the one controlling the traction service. Ohily such cars as are dis- carded as being unfit for further service, were allotted to the "See- ing Denver" company. Denver, with its 820 miles of streets, has 150 miles of electric street railway as completely and modernly equipped as any other city in the country. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 23 Leaving the car, we found ourselves ready to do justice to a substantial dinner. However, as we had but limited time to re- main in Denver, we decided that it would be best to devote as much of it as possible to sight-seeing, and partake only of a light lunch- eon. Sirs Jack, Shook, Sample, Beckert and Mr. Ivon Morris Lowrie, the advance guard, spied a restaurant, in front of which was sta- tioned a loud-voiced barker, who shouted the encouraging invitation: "Best meal in the city! All you can eat for twenty-five cents!" "That's me! Here too! Aye! Aye! I'm for you!" shouted the invading advance guard. The lunch room was so impressively inviting that it opened right into the street. The cooking apparatus was secreted in tne rear, and as the advance guard rushed literally into the arms of the lone waiter, his countenance broke into a smile that denoted realization of promised prosperity. The waiter at once regained com- posure, and taking on an important air, gave every evidence of being proprietor as well. As a matter of fact, he was a man of many at- tainments, and soon proved himself to be the one performer of the roles of proprietor, head waiter, waiter, chef, dishwasher, (if there was any) and last but not least the cashier. The barker was the only other official of the corporation, and it is doubtful whether or not he was a stockholder. The table had no cloth upon it. The waiter had, but it was in such condition as to add to his slovenly appearance and that of the eating-house in general. The fellow began calling out the offer- ings of the menu with a rapidity that bespoke of a permanent and never-changing bill-of-fare. Taking the orders he faced in the direction of the supposed lo- cation of the cook and shouted a repetition of the orders received. Then there was a delay. Obligingly he gave the information that he would interview the cook and "hurry him along." Rushing into the rear the waiter-cook was seen to take down a mass of meat, and spreading it around a wire creation, laid it over a smoldering fire to cook. As it was finished to his liking, he laid it aside, just as a wandering dog stalked sadly into the kitchen. The canine sniffed at it, and probably recognizing the remnants of a one-time fellow companion, kissed the steak with tears in his eyes. The cook indignantly took it away from the dog and hurried it in to the guests. Jack, who is acquainted with the rules of euchre, announced: "I pass." Shook, who never could be interested in golf, would have nothing to do with the sausage links. In fact, all "passed" in turn, and called for a new deal. Then the chef cooked broad, flat wheat 24 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE cakes, and greasing them generously with sausage meat, started for- ward with them. A few dropped to the floor (the cakes), but he picked them up with great care, and polishing them off gently on his elbow, laid them before the diners with proud satisfaction. Sample said he would "stand pat." Beckert announced that Ivon Morris "took the cake," and passed them along. Lowrie be- lieved it would be malicious to demolish such exquisite pastry, and the cakes remained untouched. But the resourceful and willing chef remained patiently at his work. Breaking a few eggs into a frying-pan, he stood by meditating, as he pried morsels of meat from between his teeth with a fork, stopping only to turn the eggs with the same fork. As he brought in this course, the banqueters, in a moment of unrest, ordered another ration of sausage to dis- pense with the presence of the cook in order to hold a consultation. Undaunted, the cook again got out his wire cooking utensil, wound the proper allotment of sausage meat around it, and rolling up his sleeves, spat upon his hands, and fell upon his work with vim and vigor. Then Jack, Shook, Sample, Beckert and Lowrie passed out into the rarified air of the street. The quintette sized up another restaurant in the immediate vicinity. "It don't look good to me," declared Shook". "Let's in- quire," suggested Beckert. So Sample began to cross-examine the proprietor. "How are the sandwiches to-day fresh?" With in- dignation at the intimation, the proprietor answered: "If you turn my sandwiches over, you will find the date of issue on each one. They were all fresh made, even if I don't remember just when they were created. If you have artificial teeth that fail to penetrate the sandwich, it is the fault of your dentist for not welding them out of iron ore!" "How's the eggs?" was asked. "Eggs are our specialty," declared the proprietor, "that's why they call this restaurant 'The Henry.' As soon as the eggs are turned over to me for inspection by the hen, they are dated, and when fried or boiled, they are again timed with red ink. If any of my help should date an egg ahead, I would discharge him on the spot. No restaurant in Denver would attempt to compete with me. I have the kindest regard for travelers. I would hate to meet them in eternity holding nuggets of rancid ham sandwiches under my nose. I never have to apologize for my hand-turned, seamless pies, either." As the proprietor reached for an abandoned cigar stump, Lowrie struck up the air: "It may be so, for all we know; But it sounds to us like a lie." A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 25 All fled, hungry and disappointed, and hailed two of those sawed- off landaus, bearing but two wheels. Instructing the college students on the box to take them to the nearest hotel, the famished five handed over a quarter apiece, and lay back and sighed a sigh of relief. The sigh had hardly been heaved, when the landaus were brought to a stop at a hotel within 200 yards from where the ve- hicles started. After all had dined, a stroll was taken about the streets of Denver with the purpose of viewing such sights as were on view, without distressing or exerting ourselves. Several of the Sir Knights visited the headquarters of the local Commanderies and were most courteously received, in some instances it almost became necessary to use force in effecting a leave-taking. The Sir Knights of our party who had made the call, took great pride in exhibiting and wearing "exchange" badges which their Denver brethren had be- stowed upon them. The day was drawing to a close with the same rare demonstra- tion as graced its beginning. The horizon was cast with half red- ness; in an amber sky, depths were assuming color, long oblique flames were empurpling the mountains, then the rocks, and finally, the sands. Shadows were taking possession of the land which had be- come fatigued by the heat of the first half of the day. As the sun sank over the violet mountains and night made ready to fall, the birds came from out of their shelter and chirruped and sang in the gardens, while the people in the streets, terraces and verandas rapidly became multiplied in numbers. As we drove and walked along the streets of Denver we be- came deeply impressed and instilled with the refreshing spirit of comfort which seemed to pervade all things. It is in marked contrast to the busy, restless, driving, vitality-consuming atmosphere of West- ern Pennsylvania. One of the greatest charms of Denver life is the "free-from-care" feeling that prevails everywhere at the close of the work of the day. Minds are not burdened with the losses or gains of the day, or the plans for the morrow, after nightfall. Energies are not burned with these restless excitements, nor lives worn out at a time when they should be in full bloom among Den- verites. As the farmer offers a season's rest to the acre of land which has served him well; as the trainmen stable each engine at the end of the division, to allow the machinery to cool; as the barber lays aside the razor which has seen continued service, that relaxation may bring back a keener edge so the people of the west store their energies during the evening and night, and with fresh vitality at 26 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE command each morn, have made the country renowned for its enter- prise and achievement. Evening walks and drives in and about Denver are enchant- ing. Concerts and musical functions are provided lavishly. The people of the west have a keener appreciation of the purpose of life and the necessity of relaxation than have their brethren in the east. The contagion of the spirit was manifest in members of our party, who had not only gained substantially in weight, but in cheer- fulness as well; not to mention the improvement in looks. We left Denver and our friend Mr. S. K. Hooper, a happy shining light, at 9 :30 o'clock at night over the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, properly known as the "Scenic Line of the World." It carried us through the portal of grandeur which opens into the grand audi- torium of the Rocky Mountains, where Nature sings her most won- drous music. As the train bore us rapidly southward, we became enrapt with the inspiration wrought by the sublimity of the mountain land. While we stood admiring the cloud-capped peaks and the lowlands robed in misty gloom, a finer and more entranc- ing picture burst upon us and chained every eye with magnetic force. We were approaching Pike's Peak. We stopped for a time at Palmer Lake, with more of mountain and less of plain, with its Glen Park and Chautauqua. This is the divide, the watershed, where to the north the tributaries feed the South Platte and to the south they wind their w,ay to the Arkansas River. As we start onward we come into full realization of Pike's Peak. Previously, this monarch had been to us only a name. True we had seen the mountain in picture, and heard of it in poem and song, but at last it had become a reality, a shape we were sitting in the majestic presence of the great throne. The monarch was still far away when we first saw it, but there was no such thing as mistaking, for it towers into the sky like a colossal wedge, and stands in sublime solitude which bespeaks pride and dignity. A portion of this stately piece of rock, this sky-cleaving monolith, is above the line of eternal snow. Some of the neighbor- ing giants of rock appear black from waist up, while Pike's Peak stands naked and forbidding. Its sides are so perpendicular that snow cannot rest upon them except for a few powdered streaks in the crevices. Near the top, however, the snow takes hold and re- mains perpetually. Its proud stature, its august isolation, and its majestic unkin- ship with its own kind, lends a sacred dignity to this Napoleon of the mountain world. We passed Monument and Husted, and caught a few glimpses A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 27 of the towns, but we could not become interested in such things, for we were in a fever of impatience to meet the monarch of the mountains face to face. It was after midnight when we arrived at the trio cities of Colora- do Springs, Colorado City and Manitou. Here Pike's Peak becomes more rugged and sublime so vast, so grand, so solemn! While a very world of solid weight, this monster looms up in the soft moon- light, as a fairy delusion of frostwork that one might vanquish with a breath. It appeared as a vision, so delicate, so airy, so graceful ! Howsoever who look upon it it is noble and beautiful, and while it is visible no counter-attraction can command your attention. Leave your eyes unfettered for an instant and they will revert to gaze upon Pike's Peak. Half the night, and all of the next day, this masterpiece of nature's architecture was our sole object of interest. As the morning was ushered in and many of the pilgrims sought their berths, all lights aboard the train were turned down, with the exception of those in the "stag" coach and commissary car. The "Terrible Quartette" expressed a desire to lift up their voices and sing in praise of Pike's Peak. Others, equally inspired, joined in, regardless of the formality of following the same music and song. However, nothing was broken but the stillness of the night. We were all fond of music, and the flute, jew's-harp, clarionet, bazoo and bass drum played in active competition on the same tunes. How we remember them! It is doubtful if we can ever rid them from our minds. The triangle and grind-organ were never played except at devotional services, or at such times when the ladies were awake. The music from these two instruments was too inspiring to waste on mere men. It was greatly to our sorrow that it was impossible to have a piano on board. Sir Sample has wonderful command over this instrument. With a mere wave of his hand, he can make an upright lay down and beg. As for baby grands, he can make them come and eat out of his hand. A proposition was made that Leininger favor us with a new selection on the consumptive accordion. The bandbox had been chained under his seat since the day it met with the fatal accident. A committee appointed for the purpose used considerable persua- sion and Leininger finally consented. Then everyone scrambled for a gallery seat. As the musician entered with instrument under his arm, he announced that he would play a lullaby to Pike's Peak. "Imagine a lullaby on an accordion!" said "Kunnie." As he strode to and fro, gracefully swinging his accordion, as with uplifted head he sang a song of tears to the mountain king, un- fortunately he tripped over a rope which had been stretched from 28 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE refrigerator to lunch counter. As someone yelled "Murder!" Lein- inger fell into a heap upon his precious music-box. Amid the peals of laughter that were echoed from the mountains, Leininger ex- claimed: "Well, what do you think of that?" gathered himself up, and with a painful look of disgust, picked up the fragments of his accordion, and piece by piece, hurled it out upon the tracks. Sir Aberli knew part of a melody something about "How sweet it was to know something or other." We took it for granted it would have been much sweeter if he had known all about it, for he remembered only a few bars of the melody and played them con- tinuously. We finally contracted with him to restrain himself, but not until all had joined with him in several efforts to improve the classic composition. "Bobbie," who was one of the most ambitious assistant composers, failed in his efforts. His voice was so strong that it required eight or ten men to control it. Starting with a faint, dismal sort of Bass about third base it would suddenly be caught by a short-stop, and finally land some- where between center and left field. Besides, "Bobbie" was not acquainted with the melody which was being sacrificed, and this also worked to his disadvantage. William plead with him: "Come Bobbie, don't improvise. It's too egotistical. It will provoke remark. Just stick to 'How sweet it is to know,' etc. You can't improve upon it on the spur of the mo- ment!" "Bobbie" insisted that he was not improvising, but was restrict- ing his vocal efforts along the lines laid out by the composer. Sir Greenwald expressed himself publicly on the horror of the exhibi- tion, for which he was not allowed to join in. He stated that such singing was to him what a red rag was to a bull, and insisted that any further efforts on the part of the nightingales would bring dis- grace upon the whole party, and that it was a mean advantage to take in the presence of Pike's Peak, inasmuch as the king of the mountains had not the power of speech to express himself. "Bobbie," however, was not to be constrained, and continued to tear off additional bars of his selections, meanwhile viewing the outer world from the open door of the commissary car. William looked at Otto and Otto looked at Burry. They turned around and saw Oscar looking at Staiger and Staiger looking at Oscar ; then all turned and gazed on "Bobbie." "Bill" thought he would break up the racket by asking: "Bobbie, will you be so kind as to tell us the altitude of Pike's Peak?" The singing went on, heedless of the question put. Burry asked: "What street car will I take for the South Side?" The singing continued. Oscar asked: "Bob, oh Bob, A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 29 do you think you'll work tomorrow ?" No cessation ; the storm con- tinued. Otto tapped him on the shoulders and whispered some- thing in his ear, but "Bobbie" only shook his head and soared higher and higher. Then we entreated him, we begged and plead with him in the name of all that was good, and for the sake of our dear wives and families so many miles away, for the sake of humanity, to please stop ; but our entreaties were of no more avail than had we remained dumb. Then we tried the custom of politics, by endeavoring to bribe him with money, pearls, precious stones, U. S. Bonds, and U. S. Steel, or even offered to stop somewhere and make him a present of a ranch with a thousand acres to boot, if he would only cease and allow the weary to rest. We were now positive that "Bobbie" was wound up, so we silently took "French leave" as "Bobbie" looked without. Presently he turned about. His audience consisted only of Johnstone seated on the refrigerator fast asleep. With guilty conscience "Bobbie" silently tip-toed off to bed. CHAPTER IV NDER the shadows of Pike's Peak we slept the peaceful slumbers of the just. We dreamt of the pleasures that were and of the pleasures that were to be. Ere the sun had risen its head above the most distant mountain peak the pilgrims were bounding from their berths on this cheerful mid-summer morn- ing Tuesday, August the 23rd. Early rising at Colorado Springs is no exertion. The fresh- ness and exquisite purity of the atmosphere thrills one, while there is an indescribable charm in the early gloaming, as it steals silently over the mountains. To enjoy the exquisite inception of a new day, one must be up ere the glory of the starlight has paled, as we did that morning. The air was perfumed with a heavenly fragrance. And the birds! They swept back and forth across the valleys constantly, while their jubilant music was never stilled. From the position in which our "special" was side-tracked, we commanded a glorious view of the valley, and the many peaks be- yond. As a pale daffodil light crept upward, the stars faded from the heavens. The great ghostly dome changed in hue from deep purple to a cold dead white, while the distant snow-capped peaks stood boldly forth under a glittering dazzle of light, and silvery gray 30 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE mists floated upward from the valley as if awakening from their sleep. A faint chilled breath of some cold current heralds the daybreak and the tremulous leaves quiver and whisper greetings to the dawn. Suddenly a faint flush of rosy light tinges the highest peak and grad- ually stealing downward overspreads range beyond range until, in another moment, the whole chain of mountains were alike ablaze in the fiery glow. Meanwhile, the valleys remain shrouded in purple gloom and a great, solemn stillness brooded over all. It was a deep, satisfying and never-to-be-forgotten pleasure to observe the sun create the new morn, and gradually, slowly and patiently clothe it with splendor after splendor, and glory upon glories, till the miracle was complete. Okir attentions were riveted deeply absorbed in the marvel be- fore us. The billowy chaos of mazy mountain domes, and the peaks draped in imperishable snow, were flooded with a glory of changing and dissolving splendor; while through rifts in a black cloud-bank above the sun radiated lances of diamond dust which shot out to the zenith. The valleys of the lower world swam in a tinted mist, which veiled the ruggedness of their crags, ribs and forests, and turned all the forbidding region into a soft, rich and sensuous para- dise. We spoke not a word. No expressions were exchanged. We could only gaze and in ecstasy drink in the wonder-work of the heavens. Moment by moment it grew grander and more wonder- ful in color effect. Then suddenly as the sun rolled into full sight an orb of gleaming gold flooded the world beneath with almost in- sufferable radiance! Voluminous masses of white clouds were hur- ried away by the sweepings of the north winds! For an instant the sun was hidden from view, but again appeared to demonstrate its right of eminent domain then gracefully retired behind a soft filmy veiling of cloud, that served to distill the light of day. While there was no fire on board the train during the previous night (though there was considerable of "a hot time,") there was a marked scarcity of water in the morning, several of the early risers wending their way down to a nearby creek to bathe in the open. It seemed to them a blessed privilege, and resulted in those taking the "water-cure" feeling refreshed and even light-hearted. Returning to the railroad station, "Joe," who was in the lead, gave the command : "Come on boys !" as he entered and gathered his army in front of the window of the telegraph operator, who was a young woman. Sir Gilchrist, with pride-swollen chest, and strik- ing an attitude of independence by thrusting a thumb underneath each suspender strap at the arm pit, announced in commanding tones : A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 31 "I want to send a message!" "Where to?" asked the young lady with all the sweetness at her command. "Any old place," replied "Joe" with nonchalance, "But," he added, "You might as well make it Allegheny." By this time the young lady was in spirit with the occasion, and tantalizingly inquired: "Pray, where is Allegheny?" "What do you think of that, boys?" asked "Joe," clearly in- dicating his injured pride. "Don't know where Allegheny is? Well, it's bounded on the east by New York; on the west by Chicago; on the north by Canada and on the south by Florida. Why, Allegheny is the city that gave a world's fair to St. Louis. But never mind the message; permit me to ask are you fond of music?" "Oh, my, yes!" exclaimed the young lady, enraptured at the idea. "No," she didn't have any preference, "just so it's music." The invaders then lifted their voices to that same old, soul- maddening screech: "Bedelia." They assaulted it, crippled it, and then slaughtered it and nobody mourned, though the station was half-filled with passengers. Most of them stood upon the seats, probably to rise above such music. They applauded vigorously but could not drown the horrible noise. They even laughed so does the victim who has to have a tooth pulled and is helpless to resist it. With further suggestion and solicitation upon the part of the audience they started to break the peace again. Notwithstanding the fact that we have had several open and private meetings since, and have carefully gone over all the works of foreign and native com- posers, we can arrive at no reasonable or definite conclusion as to what that second song was. We still remain in the darkness and bliss of ignorance. Occasionally, for a very brief time, two of the participants car- ried the same air, and when one reached a part which was most familiar to him, he wanted to be heard, and his voice rose up in supreme command, and started off like a race horse until another followed with the enthusiasm of a steam calliope. Then someone pitched his voice into a beautiful minor key it must have been a night-key, for it was one that minors should not be permitted to carry. Then some song-bird wrecked the whole business with a sound similar to that made by a circular saw striking a rusty nail only to be lost in a general shuffle of sharps, flats, majors and minors in wasteful extravagance. Then there rose out of the wreckage a sweet melodious voice, for a second such a brief second while the singer was hastening through some bar that was familiar to him, (tem- perance bar if you please). Then some one chased him to cover with 32 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE a thunderous roar like the unloading of a cartload of cobblestones upon sheet iron, and just when victory seemed within grasp, a pass- ing freight train whistled and shrieked by in full supremacy and conquered the howling dervishes. The listeners applauded and expressed a wish that the concert (?) be prolonged, but announcement was made that it was one of the fundamental rules of the opera company not to play more than one engagement in a town. Experience had taught them that it was unsafe to life and limb to appear before the same audience twice. Sir Burry further explained that they had completely revolutionized music, and were burying the old masters one by one, and that his artists differed from all others in one notable respect; that they were not merely spotted with music here and there, but were sat- urated with it. The young lady was full of praises. "I know," she said, "that your music is high-grade. It so delighted me, stirred me, enraptured me and moved me, that I could have cried all the time." "Cried for help?" suggested Sir Greenawalt. "Oh no," she answered, "you didn't need any. There was volume quite sufficient to your recitals. When you come again, the com- bined theatres of the city will not be sufficient to hold the audience." With an entrancing smile and pleasant bow, each member of the chorus bid adieu, and stepping out on the platform felt so smit- ten with pride, that each dived into his pocket and pinned another "exchange badge" on his coat as a personal reward for merit. Following breakfast, we boarded a street car near the Colorado Springs for a ride to Manitou, a distance of five miles west, passing en route Colorado City, the first capital of the State. Located di- rectly at the foot of Pike's Peak, at an elevation of 6,318 feet, is Manitou. It sits in the lap of an amphitheatre of mountains and foot-hills, and may truly be termed, the Switzerland of America. The cog-wheel railroad which runs to the summit of Pike's Peak, starts at Manitou, and here are located the celebrated medical Soda, Sulphur and Iron Springs. Situated in the heart of the town and at the end of the street car line are the Soda Springs. It is a popular gathering place and is visited by thousands of tourists annually, who come to drink of its refreshing waters. We all partook freely, there was plenty of it, and it never runs dry. The Sulphur Springs have a flavor all their own. Not only do their waters taste of minerals, but bear the perfume of several kinds of groceries in solution such as stale Easter eggs and onions, that have been drowned in kerosene. It bears a flavor of brimstone, or something that would make a blazed trail at night, all the way up A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 33 Pike's Peak. It would serve as an excellent weapon for revenge. If one would drink a quart of the sulphur water and breathe hard on an enemy, it would produce blind staggers ; two breaths on a man means a metallic casket for one. At the extreme end of Ruxton Avenue, we found the Ute Iron Springs; another large effervescing spring, but instead of the spark- ling soda, or self-pronouncing sulphur, we found modest, strength- giving iron water springs. Sir Gilland inquired of the attendant if he was sure that there were no rusty nails, old wash-boilers, horse-shoes, or other hardware at the bottom of the spring, and was assured to the contrary. He was told of the strength-giving proper- ties of the water, and urged everyone to partake, to gain the re- quired strength to climb Pike's Peak. The Ute Iron Springs re- ceived their name from the tribe of Ute Indians. Sir Lee claims that it was the springs that made the Indians red men, for he explained that they drank so much iron water that they became rusty inside until it broke through their skin, and gave them the reddish out- ward appearance. However, all the mineral waters in the neighborhood of Manitou, rank high as a beverage, and many persons are using them dur- ing the entire year. They resemble those of Ems, and are beneficial to consumptive, dyspeptic and other patients. The tour about Manitou was of unusual interest and attraction. Following the road due north from the Soda Springs, one enters Williams' Canyon, a most picturesque gorge. Its walls blend with strata of sandstone and limestone, showing colorings of pink, gray, vermillion and white. Above are several hundred feet of limestone, in which a number of curious caverns have been discovered, the most notable of which being the Cave of the Winds. These caves are three-quarters of a mile underground, and run directly through the heart of the mountain. Here the handiwork of nature in all its charms and wonder is to be seen. The "Diamond Hall" and "Crystal Palace" are the principal attractions in these subterranean chambers. The ceiling of "Diamond Hall" is decorated with graceful wreaths and festoons of flowery alabaster, which under the influence of the magnesium light of the guide, is beautiful to the extreme, and every inch of wall sparkles and scintillates every conceivable color and shade, giving the effect of diamond Mosaic work. The Grand Caverns are beautiful caves located two and one- half miles from Manitou over a magnificent drive up the famous Ute Pass, one of the historic highways of the Rockies. First a mere trail paced by the Indians in their flights over the mountains, it became a wagon-road to Leadville, and yet serves as one of the most ac- cessible passages over the mountains. (3) 34 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE Presently we came to the station of the famous Cog Wheel Rail- road which ascends a grade of twenty-five per cent, and reaches an elevation of 14,147 feet at the summit. We gazed with interest upon this mountain railway, and it seemed incredible that the train which was standing ready to pull out, could creep straight up to the mountain top. Mr. C. W. Sells and Mr. Benjamin P. Wheat, lofty and elevating gentlemen, stood nearby, and stated it had often performed that very miracle and any doubt in our minds was soon dispelled as the odd-looking locomotive began to enter upon its task. The boiler end was coupled to the coach, and the engine was tilted sharply backward, so that it could take up the cogs that propel the train. The coach was comfortably equipped and was composed chiefly of glass to facilitate observation. The seats are so equipped as to remain level regardless of the grades. The engine pushes the car in ascending, and precedes it in descending; thus insuring com- plete control over the coach, which, because of not being coupled to the locomotive, can be operated independently. There was scarcely room in the one car for our entire party, but rather than be separated, several of the "boys" sat upon the floor of the front platform, and bracing their feet against the railing, lighted their pipes, and enjoyed an unobstructed view of the sur- roundings. We started upon our tour of elevation about nine o'clock in the morning. Cold type could never do justice in properly describ- ing the magnificent scenic beauty of the nine miles of road in ascending Pike's Peak. The constantly changing panorama, the va- ried tints and colors, which cannot be imitated upon canvas by the most skillful masters, form a picture for the mind which can only be drawn through the eye. Engelmann's Canyon, formed by the sides of Manitou and Hiawatha Mountains, is the starting point of this novel railway. Rushing swiftly through the canyon, and flowing beside us, then appearing far below over massive boulders and forming innumerable cascades, is Ruxton Creek ; a sparkling mountain stream whose source lies in the snow that crowns the mountain top. Passing into the canyon to the left, we came upon Shady Springs, hidden under the slope of the mountain upon which rest Gog and Magog. To the right is the "Lone Fisherman," who patiently fishes from the top of the northern wall of the canyon. As we en- ter the Grand Pass, we catch a glimpse of Echo Falls, named after Echo Rocks, above whose high walls resound the dashing waters of the canyons, clearly and distinctly. Just beyond, we can observe National Creek tunnel, an arched waterway formed by fallen boulders. "Hanging Rock" and Frog Rock" are passed before we enter "Ar- PIKE'S PEAK REGION. I Cog Road on Pike's Peak. 2-8-14 Pike's Peak from Colorado Springs. 3-6 Ascending Pike's Peak. 4 Above the Half-way House, Pike's Peak. 5 Primrose. 7 Around the Corner. 9 Spring Opening of Pike's Peak Cog-wheel Road. 10 White Poppy. n Mariposo Lilly. 12 Half-way House. 13 Windy Point, Pike's Peak. 15 Pike's Peak from Pilot Knob. 16 Phantom Curve. 17 Vista of Pike's Peak. 18 Cog Road Station, Manitou. 19 Cog Road Locomotive. 20 The Trail. 21 Past Timber Line. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 35 tists' Glen," from where a good view of "Cameron's Cone" (10,695 feet) and the Garden of the Gods may be had. Curious shaped rocks stand out in bold relief from the moun- tain sides. They have been christened with names appropriate to their conformation. The "Plum Pudding," "Turtle," and "Punch," are some that we passed in our ride until we came within vision of Minnehaha Falls. At this point, about two miles from the starting place, the steep mountain slopes begin to rise to their greatest magnitudes. Man becomes dwarfed in the sublimity of the scene. The specks that indicate villages below, the rivers in the valleys which look like slender threads, the overhanging clouds which seem so near, and the massive, majestic, arrogant monuments of stone which spring up on every side, leave the spectator in full realization of his own in- significance and a fuller appreciation of the marvels of nature than he has ever before enjoyed. , A few hundred feet further and one again stands face to face with civilization in the form of a group of Swiss cottages occupied by pleasure seekers. "Lizzard Rock," "Pinnacle Rock," "The Devil's Slide," "Woodland Park," "Elk's Head," and the "Flueride Gold Mine," are passed as we suddenly come upon the Half-Way House, a comfortable little hotel situated in a beautiful grove at the foot of "Grand View Rock," three and one-half miles from Manitou. This is a popular stopping place for parties ascending the peak, and to rest, to observe, and to wonder. As we again proceeded, we passed through the ragged walls of "Hell's Gate" and entered the verdant Ruxton and Aspen Parks, over which stand Bald and Sheep Mountains. Then for little more than two miles we traveled over a comparatively level stretch, get- ting an excellent view of "Grand Old Mountain." Here our locomo- tive makes a short stop to replenish its supply of water, for the longest and steepest incline on the road is just ahead. The grade is straight up the side of the mountain at an angle similar to that formed by a ladder placed against the side of a house. It is so sharp that one dare not look at it long in realization that it is to be as- cended. As we ascend, the mountains to the east seem to sink until they appear as mere foot-hills and the valleys and rocks beneath become more extended in view. From the well-named "Inspiration Point," we see far below a glacial lake of 110 acres ; and glacial rocks marked by the action of ice in ages past; Mt. Baldy; Mt. Garfield; Bear Creek Canyon and the Southern Mountains. After passing "Timber Line," which has an elevation of 11,578 feet, we cross a great field of broken rock, spotted here and there 36 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE with soil enough to bear moss and various Alpine plants, and where, in certain seasons, there grow a profusion of small flowers which one would hardly expect to find at so high an altitude. At this point a lady, a stranger, passed through the car with a small basket on her arm, offering flowers for sale. The bouquets had a rare fragrance, especially when they were moist. She called them "wild forget-me-nots" and claimed to have plucked them from the mountain side amid snow and rocks. She was pleasant and talkative, relating an interesting story. In answer to a question put by Sir Burry, who seemed deeply interested, the stranger declared that she was married. As we reached Windy Point we caught the first glimpse of the far west, as it rolls itself out from the Rocky Mountains to the shores of the Pacific. With renewed effort, the little engine plowed its way up still sharper inclines until, a short time later, we reached the very summit of Pike's Peak, and triumphantly took our stand upon the very head of the majestic monster. The whole world seemed before us ! Villages, towns, cities, hills, valleys, rivers, lakes, and even mountains and clouds found place in the picture which was spread out before us. Rare, indeed, would be the art that could picture to the soul the unapproachable magni- tude of the view, unaided by the sense of sight. A mighty panorama of 60,000 square miles was accessible to the human eye. To the east, the buffalo plains are ribbed with streams and dot- ted with flowering fields, while villages and cities mark their bor- ders. Colorado Springs, Manitou and the Garden of the Gods lie at our feet like diminutive checker-boards spread out among fields of flowers and foliage. To the south lie Seven Lakes; the Raton Mountain range of New Mexico; the famous Spanish Peaks, and the cities of Pueblo, Florence, Canon City and Altman (the highest mining camp in Colorado), and in the far distance, the fertile Arkansas Valley winds itself among the hills. Cripple Creek and Bull Hill appear but a stone's throw, while the many mine settlements and web of rail- ways are plainly and clearly seen. To the west is the Sangre de Christo range protruding its glisten- ing crests above the clouds and spreading out its sheet of perpetual snow. Buffalo, Ouray, Harvard, Yale, Princeton, Holy Cross and Elbert Peaks proudly raise their heads at a distance varying from 60 to 150 miles away. To the north are visible the abyss ; Gray's and Long's peaks the farthest north of any we saw in the Conti- nental Divide; and Denver, Castle Rock and Manitou Park. As the wayfarer takes his stand on the crest of Pike's Peak and beholds the handiwork of the Master before him, a respect born of A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 37 reverence saturates the soul. Word nor picture has never, and can never, convey to the human mind such full appreciation of the system- atic provisions of nature to the dwellers of the earth, as are made known to him who stands upon the sublime heights of Pike's Peak, and sees and realizes the handiwork of God which man has worked into his own benefaction. Cold type or words fail to carry such impressing influences as the Creator's own achievement through na- ture, as it lies like the open pages of history, at the very feet of the pilgrim on the heights of Pike's Peak. As we stood upon the very apex of this mountain emperor, we beheld a vast portion of this little world in unique circumstantiality of detail saw it as the bird sees it and all reduced to the smallest scale, but as sharply worked out and finished as a steel engraving. The numerous toy cities with their tiny spires projecting, appeared as the playthings of children who had abandoned them for a day. The forest tracts were diminished and softened by distance as cush- ions of moss, while the rivers shone and glistened under the sun's rays until they appeared as strings of pearl. The smaller bodies of water relieved the general conformation with the beauty of a blue teardrop which had fallen and lodged in some slight depression among the moss-beds. The diminutive trains were seen gliding along between cities, seemingly taking a mighty time to travel the distance, for magnificent distances appeared as but yards, and it looked as though one might span what was 100 miles with the out- stretched arms. The world beneath us was stretched out like an enormous "re- lief map" with hills, valleys, forests and streams pictured in their miniature and natural color. This was the picture we saw stretched out before us. Distance softened it; the sun glorified it; strong contrasts heightened the effect, and over and above it all, a drowsing air of repose spiritualized it and likened it unto a beautiful estray from the other and more mysterious worlds we visit in dreams. The cares and responsibilities of this life make it the privilege of but a few of the great human family to know the sensation of looking from a mountain top over thousands of miles of the earth's domains. To those who can enjoy this feast of vision, it inscribes an indelible recollection upon the mind, and the magnificence ot the spectacle leaves a lasting impression that will never fade from mem- ory. In the ages gone, and those to come, the revelations from the heights of Pike's Peak, will remain among one of the sacred prrvileges of man, and of those that may come and go, none will ever carry away a more gracious appreciation than did the pilgrims of our party. One might suppose that to be carried literally out of the world to the heights of Pike's Peak would be foregoing, for a time, all the 38 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE conventionalities of the earth. But this is not true. American en- terprise will not be thwarted, and by turning about from the grand- eurs that lie beneath, one finds conventionalities upon the peik that become unconventional because of their peculiar surroundings. On the top of the peak is a postofnce the highest in the world. Here members of our party hastily jotted a few lines to relatives and friends that they might experience the sensation of receiving a message from the clouds, and note the post-mark of "Summit, Pike's Peak, August 23, 1904." On the mountain top there is a telegraph station, which also has the distinction of being the "highest in the world." We patron- ized the operator in sending greetings home. The "Summit House" is like an oasis on a barren desert. Built of ragged rock cleaved from the very peak itself, it offers within the comfortable glow of a huge stove, while hot coffee and bulky doughnuts touch the heart of the wayfarer through his stomach. Terrific winds sweep the summit, and although thermometers registered 90 degrees at Manitou before we started, it was very cold on the peak. "Vic" had previously cautioned us to take an ample supply of wraps and overcoats before ascending, and we found this advice of value. The barometer on the summit stands about 17 inches while water boils at 184 degrees Fahrenheit. These grossly abnormal conditions cast a strange, faint and weak sensation over the pilgrims for a time; although there were very few who actually felt ill. The ladies were particularly brave in facing the new elements. An amusing and most unusual pastime for an August day was a snowball warfare among the pilgrims on the summit of the peak, after leaving Manitou under a boiling sun several hours before. Through the mantle of snow on the mountain top, protruded a sea of ragged rocks covering the whole summit as if created by a series of blasts. As we stood on the summit in bold defiance of the raging winds, we became enveloped from time to time, by the shifting fleecy clouds. Standing as near to the sun as mortal dare tread in this country, we were at once in close communion with the swiftly but silently shifting clouds, which at times veiled the view in transitory mist and then wafted high above and sped ever onward. Protruding into these very clouds, rises the United States Sig- nal Station from the very apex of the peak. This is, of course, the highest observatory in the country; and the roof, which is platformed and protected by railings, affords a wonderful view-point. Regard- less of the terrific winds, the pilgrims would not be denied the privi- lege of surveying mother earth from this pinnacle. It would even be difficult for imagination to concede that any- thing mortal could add dignity or impressiveness to Pike's Peak, PIKE'S PEAK REGION. 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-14 Summit of Pike's Peak, altitude 14, 147 feet. 9 Columbine. ic Triangle Cryptic Rite Masons, Summit of Pike's Peak. 13 Mamma's Baby. Yucca, ri Anemone. 12 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 39 but none can gainsay the dramatic and romantic effect of the sil- houette of Sir Oscar Schulze as he stood in bold contrast to the fleecy clouds behind him, when he took his position on the top of the signal station. Oscar, who had been at once a father and brother to the pilgrims, in all that the terms imply, is a man of soldierly bearing. Clad in a heavy military ulster with flowing cape, he as- cended to the top of the signal station with several pilgrims. As he gazed upon the endless view stretched out before him, he point- ed in dramatic fashion to some object of interest in the valley, with the attitude of a general noting some military movement on the battle field. As his cape and ulster-clad soldierly figure stood out in bold relief against the clouds and skies, it appeared as if Na- poleon had risen again, and forgetful of St. Helena, was once more a leader of men, in supreme authority. Even as we gazed, we unfurled our banner, the Stars and Stripes, to the breeze with a rousing cheer that was born from patriotic hearts. The indifference shown the nation's flag on terra firma is lost when one enters strange and unusual places, and we paid homage to our colors with uplifted voices while the thrill of true American patriot- ism shook our physical frames like aspens in the wind, and inspired our souls with loyal love for our country. We found special pride as we stood upon the summit of the mount, in the fact that the first party who ever ascended Pike's Peak were Pittsburghers. In 1819, Major S. H. Long was sent by Secre- tary of War, John C. Calhoun, in charge of an "expedition from Pitts- burgh to the Rocky Mountains." On July 13th, of that year, the party encamped near the present site of Colorado Springs, from which place Dr. Edwin James, with three unknown men and a volunteer named Harris, started to ascend. The summit was reached on the evening of July 14th. The first woman to stand on the sum- mit, was Mrs. James H. Holmes, who reached the top on August 5th, 1858. The Peak derives its name from General Zebulon Pike, who discovered the noble mountain while leading an exploration expedition in November 1806. When the time for our departure arrived, we cast a last long- ing glance over the horizon, in full realization of the fact that we had witnessed the grandest scenic panorama visible from any ac- cessible point. With a parting look, the picture was indelibly in- scribed upon our minds with an appreciation that the years cannot wipe out. We entered the car with complete freedom from the fears we had entertained upon the ascent. As the train started down the sharp incline there was havoc among the party. Many uncon- sciously threw their weight to the rear in an effort to retain equi- 40 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE librium. This, of course, was of little avail. Memories of sliding down banisters in childhood, were vividly brought back to mind, but the physique could not accommodate itself to these conditions so well as in the early days. Occasionally, a few acres of almost level road afforded us a few moments of comfortable breathing, but in a moment we would turn a corner and see a long steep line of rail stretching down below us, and the comfort was at an end. The locomotive knew no fear, and never paused or slackened its speed upon approaching these sharp descents, but kept calmly and relentlessly to its task, made a sud- den bow, and went smoothly gliding downstairs. It was wildly exhilarating to slide along the edge of the precipices and look straight down into the far-reaching valleys. There was much curiosity to learn how the train would stop at the station upon the steep incline. We were anxious to learn the method em- ployed. The solution lacked every element of mysteriousness. The train simply stopped. That was all there was to it. Then it moved on in the even tenor of its way, and went sliding down again. Here and there we caught a glimpse of the "trail" in our descent. Upon it we saw men on horseback, burroback and afoot. There is an incentive and charm in going up, ever up, toward the goal. Those on foot are armed with a stout staff taking their time, and choosing their own fanciful route. There can be no more profitable recrea- tion than the glorification of conquering Pike's Peak, and few pleas- ures can be compared with that of the tourist who stands upon the top of the mountain monarch. A The Famous Camp Bird Mine. 4 Portals of the Grand. 5 Hanging Lake ( near Glenwood ). A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 57 CHAPTER VI. N the early morning shortly after the ever faithful "Alarm Clock" had beckoned us into Thursday, August 25th, we watched the silent battle of dawn and darkness upon the land of Utah with placid interest. As we observed the shadows gradually sink away and saw the hidden beauties unfold themselves in splendor when the still surface became belated like a rainbow with broad bars of blue and green and white half the distance from the circumference to the centre when we gazed upon the mountain lidges feathered with pines, jutting white caps, bold promontories, grand sweeps of rugged scenery topped with bald, glimmering peaks all magnificently pictured in the polished mirror of the waters, in richest, softest detail, the tranquil interest that was born of the morning, deepened and deepened by sure degrees, till it culminated at last in resistless fascination. After breakfast we felt fresh and vigorous. We left our seats hurriedly and just in time, as we plunged through the arcades of the "Castle Gate" which guards the entrance to Price River Canyon. "Castle Gate" bears a great similarity to the "Gateway" of the "Garden of the Gods." The two high pillars of rock forming it are continuations of spurs of the cliffs behind and each rises about 500 feet. They are rich red in color and the pines and firs which grow around their base form a fine color contrast. Between these prom- ontories runs the river and the railroad, pressing closely upon one another. The turreted rocky cliffs and the rushing river with tangled brush overhanging, forms a picture that deeply impresses the wayfarer. Presently the ascent of the Wasatch range is accomplished and the Mormon citadel is finally entered. At once we appreciated the beauty of the great city of the plains and the handiwork of the sturdy pioneer. Railroads have made the Rocky Mountain country familiar and contiguous to the whole world. The canyons, the bald and blackened cliffs, the velvety park and the snowy, silent peak that for- ever rests against the soft, blue sky, are ever new. The foamy green of the torrents has whirled past the giant walls of nature's mighty fortress myriads of years, perhaps, and the stars have looked down into the great heart of earth for centuries, where the silver thread of 58 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE streams, thousands of feet below, have been patiently carving out the canyon where the eagle, the wind and the solemn echo have their home. Arriving at Salt Lake City at 10:40 o'clock, our committee chartered a train for a run to Saltair Beach, a magnificent bathing resort on the great Salt Lake. The 14 mile spin across the valley to the lake was exhilarating. The imposing, gigantic pavilion, numerous piers and many bath houses which mark the resort, were seen several miles away. The pavilion is of Moorish design, form- ing a monster crescent in the arms of the sea. The waters are very shallow, averaging only 20 feet in depth and not over 50 feet in the deepest places. The shores on the desert plateau are monotonously flat, though the resort itself stands 4,200 feet above sea level. The dimensions of the lake varies according to the rainfall, the surface rising and falling at various periods in the year. Several streams feed the lake, among which is the Jordan River, 40 miles long, which drains Utah Lake to the southward. The waters are densely salt, varying from 14 to 22 per cent, as the waters are high or low (compared with three to four per cent, in the ocean). The lake is estimated to contain 400,000,000 tons of salt. Not a fish can exist within it, with the exception of a small brine shrimp. The waves are light blue or green and as they dance upon the surface, it is difficult to distinguish which color prevails. Bathing in Salt Lake is novel. The density of the water makes the body very buoyant, easily floating head and shoulders above the waves, and is so great that a person is sustained on the surface indefinitely, while it is impossible for the human body to sink. Suddenly, at a moment when the bathers were in their highest glee, a frightful slashing in the waters riveted the attention of all! The sun was eclipsed for an instant as two immense objects passed through the air, followed by another and greater commotion in the waters. The ladies thought it some monster sea serpent. The men believed the monster beds of salt had exploded and hoped for the best. As the frantic struggle in the waters continued, the bravest of the men cautiously tread near to observe what particular mam- moths of the sea were in deadly combat. They sought and found it was merely Sir Knights Gilchrist and Reel trying to learn how to swim. Each of these two gentlemen consumes six feet of space, when standing erect, and fortunately for them, Salt Lake rebelled when they threw themselves upon its waters and refused to ta*ke in more than three feet of each. They floated higher than anyone else and their frantic efforts were consequently not fatal to them. One of the spectators on the shore was an Indian not a Mor- The Scenic Lines, file D. & R. G. R. R. and the" Moffat Road." AUDITORIUM OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. I Summit Gray's Peak. 2 Platte Canyon. 3 Canyon of the Grand River. 4 Arapahoe Peaks. 5 Famous George- town Loop. 6 High Bridge and Falls in the Loop. 7 Marshall Pass and Mount Ouray (showing three elevations of track). 8 Toltec Gorge. 9 The City of Lead ville and Mt. Massive. 10 Royal Gorge, u Mountain Goat. 1 2 Arapahoe Peak (Colorado). 13 Glenwood Springs. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 59 mon Indian, nor one of the wooden tribe but a real, live, fast- color red man. His powerful stature and historic ancestry made him a desirable model for an amateur lady photographer. As she leveled her weapon upon him, the Indian haughtily objected. His modesty forbade him to pose for a likeness although he admitted that for a small money consideration he would forego the modesty. As the lady was not a believer in the commercial in art, she did not take kindly to the recompense proposed and continued to level her instrument upon him. With indignation, the Indian picked up a corn cob and was about to let it fly in the direction of the photo- grapher when she hastily closed her camera and took "French leave," for more serene objects of interest. Every member of the party, almost without exception, took a plunge in the briny waters of Salt Lake. Sir Lee was timid about casting himself upon the waves owing to his old enemy rheuma- tism. This malady often seizes him and his sufferings on such occasions are not matters of jest. However, after repeated invi- tations of "Oh, come on in Bill it's fine," he decided to take issue against his rheumatics. Attiring himself in a gorgeous bathing suit, he stepped out of the bath house into the chilly air and strode toward the beach. He shivered violently and hastened back and sought seclusion once more in civilian attire. Unfortunately, his rheumatics seized him with earnestness. Every member of the party offered a remedy via his throat. The sympathies of the ladies were especially benefiting to him but it was only after continued inward application of the preparation offered him that aid was realized. Noting the kind attention that was bestowed upon Sir Lee while in the throes of his affliction, Sirs Robert and Reese soon became seized with similar symptoms and publicly announced that they too, were smitten with rheumatics. However, "Bill" not desir- ing to see fond attention wasted on counterfeit ailments, secretly spread the information that Reese and Robert were suffering from a contagious disease which often follows bathing in salty water. The two would-be rheumatics at once became isolated, inasmuch as every- one fled when they drew near. While being a strong piescnption for the two, it was remarkable how quickly it effected a permanent cure. The inevitable curio store is found at Saltair Beach in many num- bers. The salt of the earth and the salt of the sea together with un- salted and saltable curios of all descriptions, make silent appeal to the pocketbook of the visitor. On the great pavilion is a monster dance floor. Here the "stag" coach contingent arose to the height of the occasion. They tripped the light fantastic, and cut figures in a manner to bring them addi- 60 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE tional laurels. Who they danced with is not a matter for publica- tion, for in a Mormon country one must do as the Mormons do. Probably owing to the stimulating effect of the brine upon the skin or the saline air upon the lungs, or both, our appetites were great- ly sharpened after the bath and we sought and devoured a hearty meal. The only sad feature of our stay at Saltair was the realization of the fact that "Vic" was to leave us. The call to duty, urgent by the demands of business, made it necessary for him to return. His kindly manner during his stay with us cemented him firmly in our affections and it was with considerable mutual remorse that he de- parted. We returned to Salt Lake City at 3 o'clock in the afternoon and at once boarded a "sight-seeing" car which afforded us a thorough inspection of the city. Salt Lake City, which is often termed "Zion" by the Mormon "faithful," has been so often and so thoroughly de- scribed that most people are acquainted with the beauties of the com- munity. It was here that we met Mr. D. E. Burley, General Pas- senger Agent for the Oregon Short Line railroad. He is a "hale fellow well met," cherished by all that know him. He showed our party every attention. The city is situated at the base of a spur of the rugged and beau- tiful Wahsatch Mountains. The northern limits extend to the "bench" or uplands which join the plains to the mountains. The streets are exceptionally wide, being 132 feet in width, including side- walks 20 feet wide, and are beautified and made comfortable by nu- merous shade trees. Along each side of the streets runs a clear, cool stream of water, supplied from the mountain canyons. These rivulets, together with gardens and fruit and shade trees with which the residences are supplied, gives the city an indescribable air of com- fort and repose and lends the enchantment of rural life within city limits. In July 1847, when the sight of the present city was a desert region, Brigham Young, after being driven from Nauvoo, on the Mississippi, brought his first Mormon colony across the plains and mountains and landed his band of 143 followers on the ground which was destined to become Salt Lake City. They organized the State of Deseret which afterward became a territory of the United States. By prodigious labors in constructing irrigation canals bring- ing down the mountain streams, the Mormons made the soil pro- ductive and changed the desert into one of the most fertile val- leys in the country. Almost the complete flow of the Jordan River is thus used for irrigation purposes. Colonies and proselytes were SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH. i Wahsatch Mountains. 2 Moonlight on Salt Lake. 3 West Shore Antelope Island, Salt Lake. 4 Cliffs of Gunnison Island, Salt Lake, and trestle of the " Ogden-Lucin Cut-off." 5 Pelicon Bay, Salt Lake. 6 Black Rock, Salt Lake. 7 Temple Square ( Assembly Hall, Tabernacle and Temple ). 8 Tabernacle Organ. 9 Mormon colony crossing the plains ( 1847 ). 10 Saltair from the Beach. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 61 gathered from all sections of the world until 200,000 Mormons were located in Utah. After protracted conflicts with the government, polygamy was declared illegal and its discontinuance was ordered by a proclama- tion of the Mormon president. In Salt Lake City alone, it is said the Latter Day Saints and Gentiles together exceed 50,000. Extensive mining interests in the nearby country afford much revenue to the city. The lofty Wasatch Mountains loom up im- pressively on the northern and eastern sides of the city, while to the south, rising beyond a stretch of 100 miles of plains, is a mag- nificent range of snow-covered mountains, offering an awe-inspir- ing view from all portions of the city. As the guide called our attention to the various handsome residences there was one invariable query on our part "How many wives has he?" The guide took the question goodnaturedly but pleaded ignorance of the official count. After a tour of the city, natural curiosity made us eager to get a peep "over the garden wall" which encloses the "Temple Square" adorned by the three main edifices of the Latter Day Saints, whose particular architecture is of general knowledge. "Temple Square," which is the sacred square of the Mormons, forms the hub of all the streets in the city, which are laid out toward the four cardinal points of the compass. Safely guarded behind a high wall, stands the great granite Mormon Temple which was 40 years in building and which cost $4,000,000. Three point- ed towers grace each end, the loftiest of which is surmounted by a gilded figure of the Mormon angel, Moroni. Within the "garden wall" is also the Mormon Tabernacle, a high, oval-shaped structure whose roof is rounded like a turtle back. It has a seating capacity of 8,000 within its walls, which stretch 250 feet from east to west and 150 feet from north to south. The roof is supported by 46 columns of sandstone. From these pillars, or walls, the roof springs in one unbroken arch, forming a large, self-sustaining house top. The ceiling rises 63 feet above the floor and has wonderful acoustic properties. At the west end of the tabernacle is situated a great organ, one of the largest in America. Seats about the organ accommodate a chorus of 550 singers. After listening to an organ recital, we were given a demonstration of the wonderful acoustic properties of the building. A whisper, and even the dropping of a pin, was clearly audible at a distance of over 200 feet. "Assembly Hall" is a stone structure of less pretention and is devoted to the deliberations of the church potentates. The grounds about the buildings are beautifully parked, while a statue of Brig- 62 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE ham Young who designed and laid the corner-stone of the temple, stands within the shadow of that edifice. Upon going eastward from the south entrance of the square, we entered the "Tithing Yard" and church offices. The "Lion" and "Bee Hive" houses are then encountered while opposite stands the "Amelia Palace" erected by Brigham Young for his favorite helpmate. Nearby is "Eagle Gate," the entrance to Young's for- mer spacious private grounds, recently reconstructed by the city government. Immediately north and east of "Eagle Gate" is the grave of Brigham Young, where, surrounded by several of his wives, he sleeps beneath an unpretentious granite slab. Following dinner, we strolled about town, touring the princi- pal streets. The shops, stores and business houses were closed for the most part, and the city was at rest. Illumination was poor and far below that of the average city. Few streets lamps were lit and those that were burned low. Beyond the business district no lights disturbed the peaceful tranquility and the aspect did not appeal kindly to us. We almost neglected to mention that in our tour of inspection to-day, we saw a wash line with a sheriff sale stock of long wet hose looks suspicious. Why not one flag, one country and one wife? Matrimony is a good thing but it can be and is overdone. Shortly we returned to the hotel, rested for an hour or two, and then wended our way through the dark thoroughfares to the depot of the Oregon Short Line Railroad. Our "special" was in waiting as usual. Its contrasting bright- ness and cheerfulness greeted us invitingly. The feeling of com- fort and "glad to be home again" pervaded every pilgrim in the party. At 9 o'clock we were speeding away for a night's ride to Monida, Mont., which is the starting point for that eventful, ardu- ous, stupendous and soul-gratifying stage ride of one week, through the Yellowstone National Park. The night aboard the train offered no special incidents, any further than the general activity in gathering together and pack- ing articles of clothing and necessities for the one week's tour through the great Yellowstone National Park. This journey which we were to enter upon in the morning, was anticipated as one of the most important epochs of our transcontinental tour. With this in mind, all retired early to free the mind from excitement and prepare the physical for the grand, strenuous expedition to come. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 63 CHAPTER VII. LL night we rode north through the state of Idaho, arriv- ing at Monida, Montana, at 8 o'clock in the morning. Monida, which is one of the gateways of the railroad to the Yellowstone National Park, is situated in a broad, low pass on the crest of the main range of the Rocky Mountains which forms the boundary line between the states of Montana and Idaho hence the name Mon-Ida. So well had we prepared ourselves and so thoroughly had all been impressed with the fact that there must be no delay, that everybody was ready to board the coaches in waiting when we arrived at Monida. The ladies were punctual and as we left our "special" promptly at 8 o'clock on this calm 1 and fair Friday morn- ing, August 26, there was no occasion for the slightest delay. Stepping from the cars, we stood face to face with the stren- uous life of the west, which is so strongly advocated by Presi- dent Roosevelt. A string of two and four horse Concord coaches of the Monida and Yellowstone Stage Company were awaiting to carry us to the threshold of the National Park. The fiery mustangs were prancing and rearing in wild excite- ment for the start. Their drivers men who have been reared among the mustangs and know and love them and place a confidence in them that they would ne'er repose in man; men who believe in swearing by their horse and against mankind they, too, were im- patient for the start. The excitement that pervaded the rearing, frothing, plunging horses, also influenced them, and they were eager to get started and above all, to be in the lead and stay there. The sight of the stage coaches, the nervous mustangs and im- patient drivers, together with the realization that our good, old, faithful and ever-inviting "special" was to be left for a week and the knowledge of the fact that we were about to enter upon an ex- pedition within an expedition, keyed the pilgrims up to almost the same height of excitement that pervaded everything about us. Lustily we cheered and yelled farewells and bon voyages to one another and to the "special" as we entered the coaches to wMch each had br.en assigned. It was worth a life-time of C'ty toiling to perch in the fore-top with the driver and see the mustangs in the long line of coaches scamper under the sharp snapping of the 64 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE whip which was continuously swept over them with the skill of the men of the plains, but which never touched or cut the animals. It was indeed heavenly to scan the blue distances of a world that knew no monarchs but us; to cleave the winds with uncovered heads and feel the sluggish pulses rousing to the spirit of a speed almost that of the resistless rush of the typhoon. Our coaches were off like a pack of well trained hounds on the hot scent. Whips cracked, horses leaped into the air, drivers swore and emphatically declared another half hour would see them in front. Those in the first coach could see the other coaches hurrying in the background through little clouds of dust of their own creation. Those in the rear observed the little line of dots ahead, each coach making its location better known as does the cannon on the battlefield with a puff of smoke. The horses were faithful and the drivers were justly proud of them. The noble animals would bowl along on the edge of the steep hill at a reasonable trot but when they again entered the level they did it with a frenzy born of the ceaseless whip cracking, which resounded like volleys of musketry. They tore through the narrow paths, over rocks, and were un- mindful of any obstacles that might lie in the path. Around sharp curves they flew, showering their volleys as they went, while be- fore us swept a continuous tidal wave of golfers on the dust and desert land. Far ahead we had the admiring gaze of the coaches way off in the lead. On and on we rushed. Every driver strained to the utter- most in his frantic endeavors to make another breathe the dust of his coach. "Look out there, Dick! That fellow in the rear wants to pass us!" shouts someone. "Can't do it!" yells the driver in tones of determination, as he rises in his seat and slashes forward with a long lash of his whip. On and on we thundered, regardless of the coach road. Across ditches, up and down, over rocks and mounds and often running on but two side wheels, we surged round curve after curve, seldom relaxing speed. Ever on we rushed as our driver passed the coach which but a short time ago, was two miles in the lead. A cheer from each coach as we passed rent the air and lent further incentive and re- newed vigor to the fearless drivers. With a word of encourage- ment to the horses, followed by the relentless smack of the whip- lash, "Dick" kept up the pace, determined to retain his position in the ranks. Looking behind, we saw clouds of dust each a half- mile apart, marking the location of the train of coaches. Presently we reached a relay station in the Centennial Valley. Here fresh horses awaited us. Quickly releasing two of the A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 65 most wearied mustangs, they were replaced by well-rested animals. For a time, travel was more difficult and with less speed, owing to the continual but gradual ascent. As we passed the backbone of the rise and gained the level road once more, the drivers surpassed their previous efforts and gave full vent to their shouts and urgings to the faithful mustangs, who responded gamely while the rush and clatter once more resounded throughout the hills and valleys. Despite the fact that this section of the journey offered numer- ous abrupt turns on a sharply descending grade, the horses madly galloped their way onward, unmindful of the thrills and anxiety of the passengers who were experiencing anything but a comfort- able frame of mind. The turns in the road were taken with "dare- devil" abruptness. We seemed to be spinning round the rings of a whirlwind or like liquor flowing down the spiral of a corkscrew. The driver informed us that it would be to our best interests to be among the first to arrive at Lakeview for luncheon ; "but," he added, impressively "be not disturbed remain tranquil give yourselves no uneasiness the dust of the other coaches rises far be- hind leave all to me." Down came his whip as a final climax. The mustangs bound- ed in their harness in response, and fairly lifted the coach from the ground! In an instant we were assured that, at least, two wheels had returned to earth. Never before had we experienced such a shaking up. Recent flooding rains had washed the roads entirely clear, here and there, but we never stopped or slackened the pace for anything. Over ditches, over rocks, across fallen trees, without the least sign of hesitation, the mustangs wildly plunged. Rubbish, driftwood, and gulleys that lay in the road offered no fear for ani- mals or drivers. Occasionally, the calm, good4natured madman on the coach top, would bend a majestic look over his shoulder at his passengers, and remark: "Ah, you perceive? It is as I have said, we shall ar- rive for luncheon before it is ready for us." Whenever we appeared to have missed being hurled into de- struction in our mad flight, the driver would gracefully turn about and in sarcastic amusement say: "Enjoy it, gentlemen; it is very rare ; it is very unusual ; it is given to only a few to ride in this racy, fascinating fashion." The "King" was as good as his word he overtook each one of the coaches in the long procession and passed them like a hurricane. As a result, we arrived at Lakeview Inn, washed up and had the pleasure of greeting the travelers on the other coaches as they filed in one by one. We remained at the Inn but forty minutes. The establishment (6) 66 is well kept and was a revelation, inasmuch as the comfort it af- forded was not anticipated in such a remote country district. It need scarcely be said that we were hungry the word fails to ex- press the sensation we felt. The meal was heartily enjoyed and we neglected nothing on the menu. Lakeview derives its name from a lake which lies in the lap of the valley at this point and the green mountain slopes afforded us the first glimpse of grass for many miles. During our short stay at Lakewood Inn, the pilgrims took advantage of the opportunity to hold a short session, so as to in- form the several coaching parties what particular experience they had encountered in their particular stage ride. Fortunately, only two fatalities were reported. In the first instance, Sir Wayne Gilland was the victim, and if it were not for some "Good Man Friday" he might still be en- acting Robinson Crusoe in the wilds of the Yellowstone Park region. While the coach, which bore him) rapidly to Lakeview was in the highest point of action, it struck a rise in the roadway without ceremony or formal introduction. Gilland sat on top of the coach and as the vehicle attempted to pass the rock unnoticed inclined at an angle of 45 degrees Gilland was tilted the other way. In other words, while the stage showed signs of lying down on its right side, Gilland pulled the other way and the division of opinion led to a division of company Gilland fell off the coach-top. Amid the clashing of the mustangs' hoofs, the yells of the driver and the report of the whip lash, any announcement that Gil- land might have made was lost in the air. Fortunately, another member of the party noted our brother Sir Knight's hasty and sud- den departure and induced the driver to halt long enough to gather him in. Happily, Sir Gilland was uninjured and now glories in the distinction that he is the only member of our party who saw that country during "the fall," and declares that he was more deeply touched by nature in that vicinity than any of his brother Sir Knights. The second fatality occurred on the coach which brought Sir Flechsig to Lakeview, and he was the particular sufferer. While his coach was bounding over obstacles in the road without the least sign of abatement, he experienced a great feeling of unrest he couldn't retain his seat with any degree of comfort and still re- tain the dignity of wearing a hat. He has two strong and healthy hands, but no more. One he applied to keep his head in touch with his hat and the other he grasped about the coach seat to keep his trousers in touch with the coach. The latter undertaking be- came more and more difficult as the coach rose high in the air after A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 67 leaping over each successive obstacle in the roadway. Sir Flech- sig, after deep mental research, conceived a wonderful scientific deduction. When the coach bounded upward he would grasp the seat firmly with BOTH hands and retain his seat. When the coach was about to drop suddenly, he would grasp his hat with BOTH hands and retain the friendly and close relation between it and his head. Sad to relate, however, the coach took one particular hurdle with such speed and uncertainty of action as to shatter Sir Her- 68 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE man's theory he grasped the seat instead of the hat and his head- gear was left to the mercies of the breeze. It took considerable persuasion to induce the driver to believe that Sir Herman had neces- sity for his headgear which was then sporting with the wind on the plains but with considerable reluctance the "Ben Hur" of the coach agreed to wait five minutes for a searching party to go after the hat. Their efforts proved successful and they returned shortly with the trophy of the chase. After our short but pleasant stay at Lakeview Inn, we again departed on our strenuous career. We were impatient to get away and we were not sorry when the time arrived to start, for we were destined to ride another 40 miles before the day's end. On we went, climbing higher and higher, curving hither and thither, in the shade of noble woodland and with a rich variety and profusion of wild flowers growing all about us. Glimpses of rounded grassy hills occupied by a few cattle, lazily nipping, were seen far below, while down in the lower valleys others could be seen as if in diminutive miniature. Every now and then some ermined monarch of the mountain swung magnificently into view for a moment, then drifted past some intervening spur, only to disappear again as we continued in our course. The drive throughout was soul-stirring; the exceeding sense of satisfaction that follows a good meal added largely to our enjoyment, as did the keen anticipation of something to look forward to in the grandeurs which were promised in the geysers, hot springs, canyons and other assets of The Yellowstone National Park, sharpened the zest. Smoking was never before so satisfying; solid comfort was never more solid, as we lay back against the cushions of the coach, silent, meditative, steeped in felicity. While we sat in silent thought, viewing the beauties in the mountain passes and breathing the pure and rarified air, Sir D. B. Watson, who had been dozing, rubbed his eyes, opened them and then straightened himself up as if startled. He had been dreaming he was at sea and to find land all about him was somewhat of a sur- prising revelation. It took "Davie" several seconds to "come to." Meanwhile the horses were galloping on and the driver was whistling the air of some familiar Bohemian opera. Sir William S. Watson was asleep at "Davie's" side, while another wayfarer on the top of the coach was sleeping and baking in the sun, with folded arms and bowed head. "Davie" tried to identify his companions but could not. Try as he would, time and time again, to call them by name, he erred in every instance and smiled at his failures. It was some little time before he could actually and rightly designate his old acquaintances. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 69 Realizing that he had missed much of the rich scenic advantages of the trip, during his hour's sleep, "Davie" chided himself and prof- iting by his own loss, woke up his brother and took him to task for neglecting the scenery while in slumber. Then Sir William, in- stead of showing signs of humiliation, upbraided "Davie" for being so wanting in vigilance. He announced that he had looked forward to the trip for many months and had especially anticipated a rich treat in the drive to Yellowstone National Park, but that a man might travel to the end of the earth with him and never see anything. He held that he was manifestly endowed with the very genius of ill luck. Thus we drove quietly along for several miles, dead to the se- ductions of the bewildering array of scenery, but we entirely re- covered our spirits when the coach bounded over a high rock in the roadway and we all woke up. Presently we halted and partook of cool, clear mountain water and felt- considerably refreshed. As we continued upon our journey and sped along the base of the steep mountains, we marveled not at the many tracks of avalanches that had occurred but because of the fact that they are not occurring all the time. One cannot under- stand why rocks and landslides are not constantly plunging down these declivities. Here and there can be seen the effects of snow slides which left broad and naked paths, some of which are a mile in length and a thousand feet wide. As the snow breaks under its own weight from the cliffs many thousand feet high, and hurls it- self into the valleys below, it cuts its path as cleanly and sharply as the surveyor could conceive. The mountain side is thickly covered with growing timber but where a slide has occurred trees have been swept out of the path. Here and there a fallen tree has been caught and lodged, but at the bottom is one conglomerate mass of timber scattered in wild confusion. The path of the snow slide has the appearance of a single cut with the clippers through the heavy wool of a sheep, exposing to view a streak of nakedness. We traveled under a sweltering sun and always saw the shade leave the shady places before we could get to them. We had a par- ticularly hot time that particular afternoon. Possibly the only com- fort we found was in the knowledge of the fact that among the trees in the little shady nooks, initials, monograms and names of cities were carved in the bark by others who had traveled the same road before us. Shortly we ran straight up a hillside where we could see moun- tains more than 100 miles away. We re-crossed the divide at Targhe Pass and the whip-lash-like road thereto. The rock-dog which is but the translated prairie-dog, broke across the road under the feet 70 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE of our horses. The rabbit and the chipmunk danced with fright. We heard the splashing of the Snake River and as we whirled around a curve we faced the water but saw no bridge. Dauntlessly the horses carried us through the stream while the water reached the very bed of the coaches and seemed to float them to aid the animals who were submerged up to their necks. It was a thrilling experience and the noble mustangs seemed to swim as they carried the vehicles along. Reaching the opposite side, the drivers applied the whip once more as they stood up in their seats, and with a furious dash, we mounted the steep river bank while the passengers feared an upsetting at every instant. Up the hill we clamored, then round a curve, up another steep incline, down another valley and once more we flew across the level and over several plank bridges that spanned the gullies. The planks squeaked and shifted from their positions as we bounded over them. Before us lay a straight road for three miles or more. In the fore- ground, at a distance of about 60 miles, we observed a high range of mountains of inky blackness. Dark clouds were overhanging while lightning played about the peaks and mountain side like tangled silver threads dropping from the skies. The mountains were shrouded in darkest gloom while about us the day was fair. The scene of a thunder storm in the distance was a most interesting spectacle and as we gazed we viewed, as it were, the atmospheric con- ditions of a distant and far-off region. The road turned and we rattled along into Madison Basin to an inn on the western edge of the reservation. It was just about sun- set when we had concluded the trip of 70 (some say more) miles from Monida, in 11 hours. This hostelry, if it may be graced by such a name, lies at the very outer edge of Yellowstone National Park proper. Everything within the park is conducted under Government care and supervision but this inn not being within the limits of the park, is a strictly private enterprise although literally speaking there was little en- terprise about it. As the first coach drew up, we were met by a tyranical sentinel in the form of over six feet of man, attired in a rough-and-ready corduroy suit and upon whose head was saucily perched a large, broad-brimmed sombrero hat. We learned later that this pirate was the "manager ;" a man from out of the east who had affected all the swagger, bullishness and arrogance which is so often attributed to the man of the western plains, but which is rarely found in him. He met the occupants of the first coach with the greatest indif- ference and lack of hospitality. When the fact was made known to him that the pilgrims sought shelter for the night, he seemed bored A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 71 and made the blunt announcement that we would be compelled to sleep in tents. This was roundly resented. The inn whose purpose it was to accommodate travelers to the park, but which is anything but accommodating, consisted of one double log building and a single log hut, crude and unartistically built. We denounced the manager for his endeavors to corral us, as he would cattle, and after a lengthy and animated argument, in which some plain truths were told him, he decided to "place us" under roof. As the other coaches rolled in, the manager became more and more agitated, realizing that he would have duties to perform. It was with the greatest difficulty that our party was placed and this was not accomplished until four or more persons were placed in a room, which could not comfortably accommodate one person. Naturally we arrived hungry after our long ride and made ap- plication for dinner. After a tiresome wait, we were told that the banquet hall was in readiness, but owing to the limited room, only a restricted number (about 10) could be "fed" at a time. The party had gathered in the office of the double log house and as the an- nouncement of dinner came, we were directed to pass through a nar- row dark hallway which had as many valleys and dales in it as the road over which we had driven. As the hungry pilgrims passed cautiously through the treacherous and uncertain passageway, we were met at the end by a guard who allowed but a certain number to enter into the dining-room when at his pleasure, he defiantly slammed the door and bolted it in the face of the invading party. Notwithstanding our cold reception, we went to the table eager and hungry. The number of dishes provided were amply sufficient but it was the monotonous variety of unstriking dishes that amused us. As we waded through the menu, our appetites slackened, whether because of natural or unnatural causes would be unfair to state. Perhaps if the slabs of alleged roast beef, which some iden- tified as mustang flesh were brought on the table and carved in full view of the audience, a truer sense of earnestness and reality might have been added. The meat aroused much enthusiasm owing to its* armor-proof qualities, and the stronger of the men broke up several slices for the benefit of the ladies. We met the weary and wayworn steak, or to be more correct, a broiled barn-hinge, with gravy on it, that bore the tooth prints of other guests who are now in a land where the pirate manager will have a hard time entering. Among other things, we were given what the inn keeper thought was coffee. It must be admitted in all truth, that the liquid was within several shades of the real thing, but in taste it was as near coffee as hypocrisy is to holiness. It was feeble, characterless and 72 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE uninspiring. Milk which did a sister act with coffee on the vaude- ville menu, caused a "stay of proceedings ;" several flies swam in the pitcher. The waiter threw in his life preserver and drowned them. It very much resembled whitewash. The bread fair enough, good enough after a fashion, but cold, and tough and unsympathetic. Next, the butter, the sham and tasteless butter; it worked the pump handle at daytime and slept under the coaches at night. There was no salt in it, but what was in it will ever remain one of the great mysteries of the yellowstone region. Then we had dessert berries. Poor lonesome berries. It was a mean advantage to partake of them, for they had long lost the glow of youth and were in the last stages of decay. Probably the stone hearted manager was even moved to sympathy as he looked into the care-worn faces of those berries, for they were doled out with care and scrutiny which could not otherwise be accomplished than by the use of jewelers' scales. The grapes were fair, but frequently through neglect on the part of the waiter, a tolerably good "peach" was found. At the end of the "feast" we were grievously unsatisfied ; we had plenty of exercise, plenty of interest, a fine lot of hopes but nothing to eat. After dinner we wandered aimlessly about from one of the log shanties to the other, one of which contained a stove. As we moved about in the arctic atmosphere, all were silent, smileless, forlorn and shivering thinking perhaps, how foolish we were to have come so far away from our own firesides. Finding the ladies huddled about a cold, fireless and unsympathetic stove, Sir William G. Lee gallantly started a fire in this apparently useless piece of furniture. The manager of the inn at once interfered, declaring that "it was hot enough to bake beans." Sir Lee agreed that he had made it hot enough to suit any guest, but insisted that the fire in the stove remain burning and the pirate withdrew in humble defeat of his purpose. We were not dissatisfied with rural life, or as the Reverend Wagner would have it, "the simple life." No, in fact this is just what we would have appreciated most. We were willing and even anxious for novelty's sake, to enter into the simple as well as the strenuous life. But to be abused, mistreated, denied comforts which were readily at hand by a tyranical pirate in the role of hotel mana- ger, whose methods for getting all he could for nothing, would drive the highwayman to blush, was not only distasteful to us but tended greatly to discourage the fond hopes we had anticipated in our trip through Yellowstone National Park. As we moved about from one crude shanty to the other, we mentally became more and more discouraged and anxiously awaited A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 73 the morrow when we could dash into the wilds of the great park and forget this place. The shanties taken as a whole, looked to us like a skating rink that had started out to make money and then sud- denly changed its mind and resolved to become a tannery. The roofs were made of little odds and ends of misfit rafters and distorted shingles that somebody had purchased at a sheriff's sale and the rooms and stairs were giddy in the extreme. When we rambled in and around the cross-eyed staircases and other nightmares till reason tottered on her throne, we came out and stood on the architectural wart, called the front porch, to get fresh air. This porch was paint- ed a dull red and had wooden rosettes at the corners that looked like a freckle on the end of the nose of a social wreck. Further up on the demoralized "lumber pile" we saw, now and then, places where the workman's mind had wandered by the too free use of "thin skin" and "cut and dry" and he had nailed on his clapboards wrong side up and then painted them with Paris green that was intended for something else. It might have been constructed at night for mental relaxation and intellectual repose, but for com- fort, architecture and beauty, the building was a gross violation of the statutes in such cases made and provided against the peace and dignity of the State. No one could look at it or sleep within its walls without a feeling of heartache and the nightmare. Besides the two log huts which comprised the Inn, the proprietor conducted a "department" store in the rear of the larger building. This en- terprise was built, for the most part, under ground. The entrance led into what appeared to be a dugout and the further one entered into the store, the further underground he would find himself. There was a gruesome mysteriousness about the deranged little place. The proprietor of the inn and store as well, remained in charge of the store almost continuously. He was an aged man, a backwoods- man, and while he was somewhat coarse and blunt in his manner- Isms, he at least, did not affect the arrogance and domineering spirit of the creature who posed as his manager. In this store, among other things, was a meager display of sou- venirs from Yellowstone National Park, consisting of pieces of rock, many colored sands, geyser formations and similar articles. While they were exhibited for the purpose of sale, the proprietor was visibly agitated when a prospective customer showed an inclina- tion to purchase. It was evident that he felt bored with the pros- pect that the sale of any souvenir entailed the necessity of laying in another supply. However, there were souvenirs in liquid form, which the proprie- tor was willing to dispense with freer hand and for which he him- self was a willing customer. These liquids were indeed souvenirs, 74 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE for once purchased they would leave a lasting* remembrance. They were designated by the prosaic names of "Cut and Dry" and "Thin Skin." The proprietor thought so highly and dearly of them that he kept them in the deepest and farthest recesses of the underground hovel. To the very best of our knowledge, the manager was about the only person who had the least respect for these "souvenirs." However, we could ever remember the cold comfort and lack of hos- pitality received at this place without a souvenir. As the time came to retire, we were handed a small piece of candle with which to light ourselves upstairs and into a small and thinly partitioned compartment which was honored in being desig- nated as a "room," probably called a room because there wasn't any. Two beds were crowded into each of these pigeon holes. The beds were also "souvenirs," from the standpoint that they were greatly out of the common. In them were hills and valleys and to be accommodated in one, the occupant was compelled to take a position, making his body conform to the impression left by the person who slept there last. No carpet graced the floor, a mel- ancholy washstand stood isolated in the corner. A dejected pitcher stood upon it, mourning over a broken nose. Above this piece of strictly antique furniture, hung the remnant of a looking-glass. Half of the glass was gone and as one gazed into the remaining half, one's head was missing from the chin up, giving the appearance of some dreadful, unfinished object. Stretches of canvas served as par- titions separating the "rooms" and whispers could distinctly be heard from one apartment to another. In fact, one could not offer a prayer without having it conflict with that of another in adjoining and distant rooms. Sir William J. Staiger, who was dreadfully tired, leaned rather heavily against the partition of the pigeon-hole assigned to him, to pull off his shoes. The strain was too much for the parti- tion and he broke through it into the next "room." No light but a dismal candle illuminated the room. Presently Sir W. G. Reel cried out for the porter to secure more light. The porter, who was the son of the proprietor was clad in overalls and boots and wore a red flannel undershirt. In response to the call, he climbed up a ladder which served as a stairway, and as he crept along the dismal hallway, which was here and there patched with a piece of wornout oilcloth, the floor sank under his weight and the building creaked dismally to every footstep. He carried a lantern to guide him safely, and in response to the request of the guest, lighted a two-inch piece of tallow a sorrowful, lean candle that burned blue, then sputtered and got discouraged and went out. Undaunted, the porter lighted it again. Sir Reel asked if that was all the light he had. "O'h! No," replied the porter, who by the A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 75 way, was the most accommodating individual about the place. "I've got two one-inch candles here." Reel said : "Light them both I'll have to have one to see the other by." The porter did so but the re- sult was drearier than darkness itself. In a spirit of confidence, the porter announced that he would go "somewhere" and steal a lamp. Reel abetted and encouraged him in his criminal design. To our great sorrow, we heard that pirate manager get after the porter in the hallway a few minutes later. "Where are you going with that lamp?" he thundered. "Eleven wants it," timidly replied the porter. "Eleven ! Why he's got a bunch of candles now. Does he want to illuminate the house? Does he want to get up a torchlight pro- cession? What is he up to anyway?" "He don't like them candles. Says he wants a lamp and if he don't get it, he'll burn the shanty down." "Well, you take it along and see what in the very nation he wants with a lamp," and the tyrant went off growling. Tired as we were, we hesitated as to whether we should retire, considering the surroundings. We talked at random, in vain en- deavor to make "head or tail" of the wild chaos of the day's sights and experiences. Our pleasures had been boundless during that day of rare holiday frolic. Thirty miles of ceaseless rush, rattle and clatter and never a weary moment, never a lapse of interest. A score of these miles were over a level country, with desert solitudes of limit- less panoramas and bewildering prospectives. Then we remem- bered the pleasant stop at Lakeview, following which we rode forty or more miles over hills and valleys. Grassy carpets sprinkled this pathway which was figured with Nature's own designs. We remembered the shadow of the clouds, crossing the Snake River. Here were no scenes but summer scenes and no disposition inspired in them but to dreamily smoke the pipe of peace with repose and contentment. The massive fortresses, counterfeited in the eter- nal rocks and splendid with the crimson and gold of the setting sun; dizzy altitudes among fog weathered peaks and never melting snows t where thunder and lightning and tempests warred magnificently far off in the distance, with the storm clouds that swung their shredded banners in our very faces. We subsided to indolent smoking. We yawned and stretched then feebly wondered if we were really and truly on the border, at the very gate, of the renowned "Yellowstone" and drifted drowsily away into sleep. 76 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE CHAPTER VIII. ATURDAY morning, August 27, found a congregation of early risers among the guests at the inn. No "Alarm Clock" was necessary to bring the pilgrims out of their beds, although it required considerable physical exercise to arise from out of the deep cast molds, which previous guests had created. The outside world offered such a pleasing and striking contrast, as the sun slowly arose in the horizon to supervise the movements of the day. The scent of the pine trees lent vigor to the body and in- stilled ambition into the soul. The border of the Yellowstone Park could be seen from the distance and sharpened our curiosity to see the mysteries within. The disappointments which were encountered in arriving at the inn the night before were momentarily forgotten as we gazed from our windows and realized the rich pleasures which were in store for the day. But our hopes were destined to again perish in the sea of disappointment and discouragement, at least for a time. We were again called to the dining room ! Once more we were corralled in the narrow rickety hall-way and allowed to rush into the "banquet hall" in groups, as sheep are turned into their respective pens. We dined on the remnants of that, which was dignified by the name "dinner" the night before. Promptly at 8 o'clock we boarded our coaches which were in waiting, and with the heartiest of farewells, which came directly from all hearts, we bade the inn good-bye with a hope that we should not strike such an equally inhospitable hostelry during the re- mainder of our pilgrimage, or the rest of our lives. Refreshed by the early morning air, we went bowling along over a hard and smooth roadway, through all the summer loveliness. Short- ly we found the roadways in excellent condition and freely sprinkled to allay the dust. At once we realized that we were actually within the park; for Uncle Sam is an excellent custodian and takes particu- lar pride in caring for his famous breathing spots. Once within the park, the sights and scenes were a constant en- tertainment to the eye. Sometimes only the width of the road guided us between imposing precipices on the left and a clear, cool body of water on the right, with its shoals of uncatchable fishes, skimming about through the bars of sun and shadow. Sometimes the preci- 77 pices faded away into an apparently endless, upward slant, and were densely covered with magnificent trees. The beauty of the woodland became intensified as we approached a veritable Eden of pines. Through the center of this grove was a broad driveway flanked on each side by immense pine trees of al- most equal height. This was the famous Christmas Tree Park. One becomes deeply inspired when once within this forest of pine. Such a sameness is there in infinite variety. Once inside, the woods can- not be seen for trees. One can but wander on, letting each object impress itself upon the mind and carry away a confused recollection of innumerable perpendicular lines straining upward in competition. The upward lines are of varied thicknesses, while branches scatter about in confusion. The delicious scent that fills the air breathes of vigor and health-giving qualities. On this drive we caught the first glimpse of deer, elk and eagle. With a sauciness that commanded respect, the deer ventured out in- to the road, less than a score of feet in front of the prancing mus- tangs. With head erect and ears alert, they gazed daringly at us then scampered back into the wood. Their grace and agility, to- gether with the white-speckled loins of the tiny fawns, added beauty and prettiness to the picture. Occasionally we caught glimpses of elk, who, like their smaller relatives, the deer, stood majestically in expectancy as they heard the approach of our coaches, then with graceful leaps over any and every obstacle in the path, they were lost in the wilds of the forest. Far up in the tree tops, many paces ahead, we observed the eagle serenely and statue-like, taking a topographical view of the surrounding country, seeking prey with unerring eye. With dis- dain, the bird-king cast his glances down upon us and with an air of supremacy and indifference, never moved a feather to indicate that mere humanity was worthy of notice. Onward we drove, to the regular and even stride of the mus- tangs, as we passed down through the forest, drawing in the fra- grant breath of the morning, in deep, refreshing draughts, and wish- ing we might never have anything to do forever more, but ride and ride through such woodland. The true charm did not lie in the drive and scenery alone, but in the conversation as well. The rattle of the coaches was an ex- cellent measure by which to time the movement of the tongue and keep the blood and brain stirred and active. The supreme pleasure came from the heart to heart talk among congenial companions. It mattered little whether one talked wisdom or nonsense, the result was the same. The greater portion of the enjoyment lay in the ac- tion of the gladsome jaw and the ringing of the sympathetic ear. 78 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE What a variety of subjects were raked over during that half- day's drive! There being no constraint, a sudden change in the subject was always in order, and no one subject was permitted to grow tiresome. In the first hour or more of that early morning ride, we discussed everything we knew. Then we branched out into the glad, free, boundless realm of the things we were not certain about. The fact that we were not all agriculturists was made known when "Joe" inquired at what particular season the pine trees of Christmas Tree Park bore their pineapples. Others inquired as to how Yellowstone Park derived its name, and to this query, Sir Carl, with an air of superior information, pointed out all the yellow mud- bespecked stones that lay in our course. Occasionally the conversation would turn to the geysers and hot springs, which we yearned to see, when some caustic wit in the party would refer the travelers to seek under the coach body for the hot springs. Sometimes the conversation would turn for a moment to the sentimental, and we expressed curiosity to know what the friends at home were doing and thinking about, and then we would discuss our anticipations of the coming conclave at Frisco. Sometimes we would "give the floor" to the driver, who would take up the thread of his life's history, which he had laid aside pre- viously. True or untrue, the tales of the past of these reinsmen, form the most interesting narratives imaginable. Some proved the exception to the rule, in that they would not discuss their past his- tory at all, and drove silently on, listening, but rarely speaking. There can be no doubt that among the most silent, lies buried tales of the past that if told would bear out the old adage that "truth is stranger than fiction." Their very silence carries the impression that romances were buried behind when they sought the west and the stage coach for forgetfulness. As we exhausted our conversational ability we sought singing as a pastime. We were cheered by our own melodies. Everybody sang, or at least tried to give voice to some song. The result was a wild but entertaining blending of soprano, alto, contralto, basso, baritone, tenor and several intermediate tones still unnamed. Occasionally one singer would act as leader, usually all were leaders. Some were more rapid vocalists than others, but those that dwelt at length upon the climax soon caught up, even though they were compelled to jump a few meas- ures at a time. Old and young sang songs they had never heard, and some, no one else had ever before listened to. Others sang who could not sing. Many a medley of childhood was resurrected which some of the older members of the party recognized as one-time popular airs. All formalities were cast to the winds and the happy party kept pull- ing away with no apparent sign of fatigue. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 79 It was all high-grade music. Indeed it must have been high- grade because it so uplifted us that we were full of cry all the time and mad with enthusiasm. Our souls were never before so thorough- ly scoured out. The solemn and majestic chanting rose and fell (mostly rose), and rose again, in that rich and wild confusion of war- ring sounds to the stately swing of those ever-present inspiring airs. It seemed as if nothing but the very highest of high-grade music could be so divinely beautiful. Just imagine hearing that congenial "ycmng-old-man" Heckel, singing "Bedelia" and a score of other popular airs that but few of us know; and when Sir Oscar came in with his impressive basso the horses started on a gallop, we all received a jolt, and the singing was driven out of us as the driver pulled in the reins. We learned to know that there were two kinds of music a kind which one feels, just as an oyster might; and another sort which re- quires a higher faculty which must be associated and developed by training. Yet if base music gives some of us wings, why then should we desire any other? But we do. We want it because it comes higher. Presently we came upon Riverside Station where is located a cantonment from Fort Yellowstone. This point is always guarded by government militiamen on horseback, who pace the roadway. These armymen are encountered in all sections of the park. The route follows along the Firehole River after passing River- side Station. The stream has not been inappropriately named and seems to flow from the worst portion of the Satanic domain. It has ample current with beautiful transparent, blue water, bubbling over a bed of discolored stones and lava. Its waters are composed entirely of the outflow of geysers and hot springs, impregnated with everything the forbidding regions produce. The water is pretty to look at but vilely bitter. Thus far we had seen no geysers, although several miles ahead, along the river, geysers are liberally distributed at intervals for 10 miles, being, for convenience of description, divided into the Lower, Middle and Upper Geyser Basins. As we drove merrily along we passed the falls of the Firehole River beautiful beads of blue, clear water, breaking over the rocks. About the noon hour, we saw, miles ahead, the steam rising from the Lower Geyser Basin in clouds that were lost among the distant hills. Presently we arrived at a point where we could see the myriads of steam jets, rising from a surface area of some three miles of desolate geyserite deposits, which had the appearance of a large field of snow. The Fountain Hotel was now in sight, and with renewed ambition we sped along the straight road and arrived at the hostelry in time for 80 luncheon. This is the first hotel within the park proper and being conducted under government supervision, inasmuch as the privilege for conducting it is granted by Uncle Sam, the contrast it afforded to the hovel which is graced by the name of an inn was marked but more of this anon. Our arrival at Fountain Hotel was hailed with delight by mem- bers of the party because of the stimulating air, and the fact of the uncomfortable stay at the inn on the border. But the delight of the pilgrims was not shared by the proprietor of the hotel at least not for the first moment or two owing to the suspicion that was given him, that a stranded circus troupe was about to make a concentrated attack. This slight misunderstanding was, in a measure, due to Sir William G. Lee, but not because of any premonition on his part. Sir Lee, like the rest of us, had become numb and stiff from sitting in one position during the long drive. As his coach drew up to the door of the hotel, he forgot his affliction in his anxiety to alight, and in an effort to step out of the coach, he stumbled over a valise, and after a graceful (?) double somersault he alighted on the porch of the hotel at the feet of the proprietor. "Bill's" entree was picturesque to say the least, and the proprietor of the hotel looked anxiously for some other member of the party to swing off the roof of the coach from a trapeze, or walk into the hostelry on a high wire. Fortunately, the rest of the party passed through the usual formalities in alighting, and thereby set af rest all fears of the hotel management. Our fondest anticipation of the meal we were to have at Fountain Hotel did not equal the realization. The contrast between it and the rations that were "thrown out" to us at the inn was too great for description. The table was snowy white in the array of linen and the service was equal to that of any first class metropolitan hotel. To find such conditions in the very wilds of the west was a surprising and most agreeable fact. Imagine how the poor, weary and hungry pilgrims devoured those appetizing viands ; we felt that some good angel had suddenly swept down from out of a better land and set before us a mighty porterhouse steak, an inch and one-half thick, hot and spluttering from the griddle; dusted with fragrant peppers; enriched with little melt- ing bits of butter of unimpeachable freshness and genuineness; the precious juices of the meat trickling out and joining the gravy, archipelagoed with mushrooms ; a strip or two of tender, yellowish fat, gracing an outlying district of this ample county of beefsteak; and the long white bone which divides the sirloin from the tender- loin, still in place. That good, imaginary angel, also added a great cup of home-made coffee, with cream "a-froth" on top ; some real butter, A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 81 firm, yellow and fresh; some smoking hot biscuits; a plate of hot buckwheat cakes with transparent syrup. Could words describe the sumptuousness of this layout, compared with that of our former stop- ping place? After luncheon we were assigned to our rooms. Large, spacious apartments were alloted to us. The bed linen was faultlessly white, while the furniture within the rooms was strictly modern and com- fortable. Everything essential for the welfare and ease of the guests was found in these rooms, while the service throughout the house was excellent. Having been apprised where we were to be quartered for the night, and after seeing that our baggage was deposited in the right rooms, we gathered together in a large drawing room on the ground floor one of those rooms which are the chief features of all summer resorts. In this room was one of those "near-pianos" a small, clattery, wheezy, asthmatic thing; certainly the worst counterfeit, in the way of a piano, that we had seen. How Addie and Lydia manipulated the ivories with such skill and marvelous rapidity and simplicity, was an astonishing treat to everyone. Presently, a young lady, unknown to members of our party, and apparently unconscious of the multitude about her, ap- proached the piano timidly. As soon as she began to beat that old, helpless wreck , we knew it had faced its destiny and we felt sorry for the hoarse and sickly instrument. After a companion of the lady pianist had brought several armsful of sheet music into the room and had begun to gracefully turn the pages, she swooped down upon the instrument and without any further preliminaries turned on all the horrors of "tenement-house torture," while the congregation set its teeth in agony. With a sweeping calesthenic movement she followed attack with attack until the battle waged at its height and thunder of shots and exploding shells was the only "musical" thing she pro- duced. Then she waded, chin-deep, into the blood of the slain with a fair average of two false notes in every five, and rarely agreed with the author of the composition which she was endeavoring to follow. The audience stood it for a while with marked forbearance, but when the cannonade waxed hotter and fiercer and discords held full sway, the procession began to move. One by one, the congregation sought the fresh and stilly air, which was fractured only by the more melod- ious and harmonizing notes of the hawk, owl, eagle and cricket. A few stragglers held their ground 10 minutes longer, but when the pianist began to wring out the "cries of the wounded" they struck their colors and retired in panic. 82 There never was a more complete victory; "Bobbie" and Jack were the only non-combatants left on the field. None liked medioc- rity, but we all reverenced perfection. The music was perfection in its way ; it was the worst music that had ever been achieved by a mere human being. "Bobbie" moved closer and listened attentively. When she had concluded, to the horror of all, he urged her to repeat it. She agreed with a pleased alacrity and a heightened enthusiasm and made it ALL discords this time. She got an amount of anguish into the cries of the wounded that shed a new light on human suffering. She continued on the warpath for the next half hour. All this time, crowds gathered on the porch and pressed their faces closely against the window panes to look and marvel, and placed their hands to their ears so that they might not hear; for the bravest dared not venture in. Finally, the young lady marched off, contented and happy, and our party took renewed courage and marched in again. Moral: The piano should never be abused, they are always "square and upright." During the afternoon rain and hail showers came and went intermittently. Between showers we visited the geysers and hot springs and other natural curiosities in the vicinity of the hotel. It appeared to us as if the rain stimulated the activity of the geysers. The larger one bubbled all over and as the rain and hail fell it cre- ated the effect of water thrown upon a hot stove. There are about 700 springs and geysers in the neighborhood, most of them very small. The noted Fountain Geyser throws a broad, low stream of many interlacing jets every two or three hours, which prevail about 15 minutes. The Thud Geyser has a crater 150 feet in diameter with a small rim within. Afe the geyser operates, it throws a column 60 feet in height, with heavy and regular "thud" underground, announcing the coming of each new spray. This gey- ser has no fixed period for action. The basin in which the hotel lies has a generous supply of mud geysers, known as "paint pots," which eject brilliantly colored muds with the consistency and appearance of paint, the prevailing hues being red, white, yellow and pink. The surface about these geysers and springs is underlined with sulphur, subterranean fires, boiling water, and steam, which make their way out in many places. Throughout the whole district, the earth has been cracked by the heat into wide fissures in which waters can be heard boiling and running down, in the depths. Everything on the surface, which can be, is burnt. Nearly every crevice throws forth steam and hot water with deposits of sulphur at their outer edges, while the odors of some are almost unbearable. No wonder that the Indians avoid- Courtesy Oregon Short Line R. R. MONIDA TO LOWER GEYSER BASIN, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. i The Rapids. 2 Cascades of the Firehole River. 3-15 Deer. 4-6-7 Where Nature Sleeps. 5 Elk in the Valley. 8 On the border. 9 Yellowstone Park Stage Coach. 10 Bear, posing for his picture. 1 1 Christmas Tree Park. 12 Racing to Lakeview. 13 Mud Geyser. 14 Mammoth Paint Pots. 16 Fountain Hotel. 17 National Park Mountain, Junction of Firehole and Gibbon Rivers. 18 Hail and Rain. 19 Fountain Geyser, Lower Basin. 20 Excel- sior Geyser. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 83 ed this forbidding region ! No wonder the tales told by some of the early explorers were disbelieved ! Here and there the hot springs form shallow pools where the waters run over the rim-like edges, trickling down over the outer lips, forming beautiful shapes and coral decorations out of the dried lime deposits. With the aid of the sun, these deposits become rich in delicious colorings of red, brown, green, yellow, blue and pink. As long as the waters flow these decorations retain their mystic- color beauty, but where the flow ceases the atmosphere bleaches everything into a snowy-whiteness, while the more delicate forma- tions crumble into dust. As we tread over the formation, the ground rang hollow. A stream of iron-red water gushed forth here and there, then rushed into a hole in the earth as a frightened prairie dog. A half- hundred feet above us, jets of steam arose only to die out and fade into the blue. The dust bespattered deposits were continually be- ing renovated by lime, whiter than the driven snow. As the eye followed down the grottoes and caves, the deep abyss that finds its way into fires of the bowels of the earth, the mind lost all conjecture of the depths from whence these wonders come forth. The pools, crying out in anguish because of the bitterness which they endure, mutter, chatter, moan and groan continuously. Fifty feet under water, from out of the lips of the lime edges, silver bubbles worked their way up into the still crystal surface, disturbing its tran- quility. Suddenly the pool shakes and noises rumble. As we retired in fright, we found neighboring pools in similar agitation. Crevices in the ground reek with running, seething water. In places, pit holes remain as dry as the desert sands elsewhere the seething waters have embalmed and boiled the underwood, while here and there forest trees shield the havoc with their greenery. The struggle between the subterranean fires and peaceful vege- tation will ere long be won by the trees and shrubs. The fires which have raged through the ages are dying down. The hotel now stands where the springs at one time flowed wildly into deposit wastes while the pines which surround the hostelry have succeeded the former places of geysers and springs. Government soldiers patrol and guard the grounds, armed with six-shooters, to prevent the tourist from hurling logs and stones into the pools, or chipping tracery from the formations or walking where the crust is too thin, to foolishly cook himself. It was at the Fountain Hotel that we saw the first bears on our pilgrimage. They boarded at the same hotel, and there is more truth than jest in this. Not that they occupied adjoining rooms for they merely took table board, but still not at our particular table. 84 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE Owing to the remoteness of the hotels in Yellowstone Park from any municipal garbage dump, it is the practice of the management of these hostelries to carry the refuse from the kitchen and dining room and deposit it a few hundred yards in the rear of the buildings. So accurately have the bears in the surrounding country noted this fact, and so carefully have they gauged the time for carrying the garbage to the depository, that they seldom vary a moment in making their tri-daily calls and feasting from the refuse heap until no heap remains. As a special caution to guests, danger posts are stationed about 200 feet from the garbage repository to mark the point from whence the bears can be viewed with certain safety, while the additional pre- caution is given not to move nearer or create a disturbing noise while the bruins are within hearing distance. It is a well known characteristic of the animal not to become aggressive unless in hun- ger or fear of danger, when they become not only fleet of foot and sharp of claw but have a power of embracing one as he has never been embraced before, or can possibly be embraced thereafter. As if equipped with faultless and ever accurate time pieces, the bears slowly waddle out of the dense forest of pines at precise hours three times a day about a half hour after each meal, being gra- cious enough to allow the employees time to place the refuse. As we watched them from the prescribed point of safety, we could see them leisurely, slowly and ploddingly jogging to their eating place. With noses close to the ground, eyes riveted upward, and heads in continuous swinging motion from side to side, they waddled forward to the garbage heap and devoured it in its entirety, meanwhile eye- ing us with suspicion. They left as they came, unceremoniously and leisurely, and were lost in the pines until the hour for replenish ing the garbage pile was at hand. During the afternoon we met several Sir Knights of Tancred Commandery No. 48, of Pittsburgh, in their coaches. The most cor- dial greetings were exchanged. There was more than a touch of sentiment in the accidental meeting of brother Sir Knights from our own sister city. Our Praters were enthusiastic in their delight and showered us with best wishes and good cheer. We too, were happy over the meeting with "home folks" in such a romantic place as Yel- lowstone Park. A final word a "good-bye" and an expressed hope that we would meet at the Conclave and they again resumed their route. Returning to the hotel, Sirs Jack and Reel became impressed with the idea that their identity had become lost behind over-grown beards. A systematic search of the hotel failed to reveal a barber- shop. Upon inquiry, the clerk informed the "two wild men of A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 85 Yellowstone" that the engineer could be induced to amputate the beards. Seeking the under-world, wherein lie the engine and boiler rooms, they found the engineer, and after an interview were informed that he would take the contract, although he showed no desire to furnish a bond. The engineer inquired where the rooms of the unshaven were. "Never mind about our rooms," cried Reel, "we want to be shaved right now." Then the engineer became excited! There was a hurried con- sultation between him and his assistant, the fireman, followed by a hurrying to and fro and an unearthing of razors from most unex- pected places and a skirmishing for soap and other necessary me- chanical appliances. Escorting his victims into a mean, small, shabby back room, used for storing timber to fire the boiler, he brought in one three- legged kitchen chair and a soap-box and gave his customers their choice. Sir Jack announced that it was immaterial to him, whether he went to a martyr's grave on a soap-box or milking stool, and he was voted the soap-box. Taking their positions, the unshaven were requested to prop their feet on a cord of wood. With sad, silent, and solemn counte- nances they looked up piteously into the face of the villain, who was testing his razor on a piece of sheet-iron. Sir Reel asked if he could leave a message to his family and friends, but the engineer and fireman both declared that they could not delay the operation any longer, for any further neglect of the engine and boilers might ruin the whole shaving process by an explosion. The horrible prospect was not endurable after the engineer had kneaded lather over the faces of his victims for ten minutes and checked their sobs by plastering liberal quantities of suds into their mouths. The Sir Knights expelled the nasty stuff with a few un- complimentary remarks but the outlaw knew no fear and stropped his razor on his boot with renewed vigor. Hovering over his first victim, Sir Reel, for six fearful seconds, he swooped down upon him like the evil genius of destruction, while Jack, on the soap-box, grasped his friend by the hand, and turned away his tear-dimmed eyes to be spared the full horrors of the scene. The first rake of the razor loosened the hide of the victim and lifted him bodily from his seat. He stormed and remonstrated, raved and demanded that the job be finished by the use of emery paper rather than a meat-saw. The butchery continued in all its fury but let us draw a curtain over the harrowing scene. Suffice to say, that the victims endured the cruel inflictions with a courage and 86 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE manliness that cannot help but enscroll their names upon the records of the "Hero Fund." As a final climax, the would-be assassin held a basin of water under the chins of his victims and sprayed its contents over their faces, into their bosoms and down their backs, under the mean pretense of washing away the soap and blood. He followed this by drying the features of his victims with what he termed a "towel," but which might have been previously employed in drying over-oiled sections of the engine. As the barber, in conclusion, made an effort to comb the hair of his sufferers, they rebelled, declaring that it was sufficient to be skinned without being scalped. Several members of our party who by this time had been drawn to the scene of the tragedy, assisted in caring for the wounded and removing them from the battle-field. After dinner, Mary Commandery of Philadelphia, arrived at the hotel, and a more agreeable, companionable and brotherly and sisterly party we never met throughout our whole pilgrimage. They were viewing the park over a different route than the one pursued by us, having entered by the North Gate. The one distinct advantage they had over us was that they were not compelled to stop at the inn on the border, either coming or going. The hours that followed, about the spacious verandas and draw- ing room, were among the most pleasant in our memories of the entire trip. Music, song and laughter was general and ever present, and all shared therein, in full accord. One of the features of the evening was the rendition of a musical, elocutionary, dramatic and literary program in which talent of both Commanderies participated, with the exception of Bovard and Gilchrist. The law and order committee very charitably agreed that to allow "Bobbie" to sing would create too much jealousy among the men, while the committee on the care of children thought it inadvisable to allow "J oe " to make his first public appearance so far away from home, although he agreed to sing that sentimental soprano aria, "I want Santa Claus to Bring Me a Red Wagon." After a time, when the dancers held the drawing room and the spectators thronged the verandas and engaged in conversation and laughter, "Bobbie" hit upon an ingenius scheme to aid some "noble charity." Passing among the members of the joyous party, "Bobbie" made known his proposition. He had been given a watch. Its worth could not be estimated because of its associations. The present owner, finding himself in the midst of such an estimable gathering, believed himself selfish to retain it, so he. decided to raffle it, that its ownership might be determined without partiality. As A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 87 a mere matter of form, according to the progressive agent, the chances were ten cents each ; the proceeds to go to a "noble charity." There was a frantic rush to procure chances. In order not to disappoint, many chances were sold several times over. As the dimes began to accumulate in "Bobbie's" clothes, he was handi- capped in moving about and making faster sales. Finally the time for picking the winner came to hand. Every safeguard was introduced to insure fairness. Fate chose that one of the Philadelphia guests should be the proud owner of the trophy. With great diplomacy and considerable ceremony, "Bobbie" escorted the winner to the open door, made a neat presentation speech, and handing him the watch, was lost in the darkness. A hundred or more gathered about the winner as he unwrapped the tissue paper with great care. When the time-piece was revealed, a titter of laughter swelled into tumult, and the proud winner of a moment before shrank to a victim of misapprehension. Meanwhile a vigilence committee was appointed to wait on "Bobbie," provid- ing he could be located within the Park. The watch proved to be the remnant of a one-time active and enthusiastic dollar time-piece. It was so much ashamed of itself that it covered its face with its hands. It had evidently been the victim of a recent catastrophe, for the glass was broken, the case badly bent, and when but slightly moved, sections of the "works" would rattle within. This only tended to prove what the announcer had said before selling chances: "Its worth could not be estimated because of its association." It had evidently been associated with a trip-hammer. The dance continued and laughter again held sway amid the chattering of the onlookers. Gradually, as the hours of morning hovered near, the members of the happy party dispersed one by one, and sought their well-earned couches. As the dance floor, which but a little while before was thronged with merry dancers, became vacated, and the spacious porches which had held the joyous Sir Knights and ladies became depleted, a few who remained be- hind cast a sentimental glance over the scenes which a short time before had rung with cheer, music and laughter, only to be suc- ceeded by silence; and stepping out into the air they held com- munion with the moon and twinkling stars in the stilly night. Days such as the one which was closing are rare in a life-time. So full of interest and lack of fatigue. For hours we plunged over miles of roads, hills and valleys and through canyons, while laugh- ing waters rushed and gushed and broke over falls round about us. The deer, elk, eagle, bear and animals of lesser fame looked on as 88 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE we completed our tour for the day. What audacity for these in- truders to enter our domain, they seemed to ask. Our views and study of the geyser formations impressed us with their similarity in growth to mankind as expressed in bhakes- peare's "Seven Ages of Man." First, as the babe sleeping close to the bosom of Mother Earth, the airy wreath rises from the heated clay; then comes the infant breathing stronger and at times puck- ering in the nurse's arms, as the sprays splutter out of the earth; third, the child simmering with impatience, as found in the pools ; fourth, the youth whose occupation is to boil over, active and aggressive, like the paint pots working with constant energy; fifth, manhood as represented by the gushers rising in their maturity to their greatest height; sixth, comes the age when action is but intermit- tent ; and last, old age, when the tranquil pool, sleepy in its inactivity, shows the last signs of life only to be eventually absorbed by the sun and left to shrink and wither and crumble to dust. We felt the peace of a summer night whose day sleeps with open eyes. The full moon glistened on the white formations of the geyser deposits, while the rays of the planets played in the spray of the geyser streams. The effect was most beautiful to the eye and inspiring to the soul, and appeared like the veil of a lacy rain- bow shooting upwards. The night was pensive, soothing, cool and exhilarating. A dreamy stillness filled the air suddenly the splash of the geyser breaks the silence. Occasionally the "thud" would proclaim the coming water eruption of the geyser by that name, it bursted forth with a splash splash splash, and growled and roared as it threw its fountain higher and higher in vain effort to outdo its rivals. Together they rent the air in competition for the baskings of the moon then all was silent as the waters again sought the bowels of the earth and secretly gained strength for an- other combat. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 89 CHAPTER IX. E awoke early on the morning of Sunday, August 28, to find the day a glorious one. There was a feeling of responsibility up- on us as we realized that it was the Sabbath the day of hap- piness and freedom from toil. But one can "break the Sab- bath" in a hundred ways without sinning. We do not work on Sun- day because the commandments forbid it we rest on Sunday be- cause the commandments require it. It is in the definition of the word "rest" that the contention lies. We did not rest on this Sunday by secluding ourselves in quie- tude, if this be the accepted manner of resting. We rested in the bosom of glorious Nature, and in this rest witnessed and realized the work of the Maker of all things and gloried in His achievement. Probably in no other portion of this continent can the works of Nature be seen in such variety as in Yellowstone National Park, and as we were carried along from wonder to wonder the fulness of our appreciation increased. How quickly and surely isolation from the activities of the world lead to forgetfulness, was illustrated by the fact that the drivers of the stage coaches had no idea that the day was Sunday. Secluded as they are in the vastness of the Park, they work day after day without the thought of a calendar, and not until the passengers re- minded them and made them acquainted with the fact that the day was the Sabbath, did they know it. The driving schedule does not permit of any lapse of time, and as the drivers are compelled to mount the boxes and continue mo- notonously over the same path daily, they not only lose sight of the day of the week, but also the date of the month. All days are alike to them, and what care they, for they have become sons of the wild and find peace in their pastoral innocence. As the passengers were assigned to the various coaches that Sunday morning^ and the last one had driven away, a mathematical problem presented itself that caused considerable anxiety among four members of the party, and no little worry to the others. One Sir Knight and three ladies of the party were left behind as the last coach drove off. In the usual mad rush of the drivers for the lead, the coaches were well out of sight and hurrying further away with all the ef- 90 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE fort of the mustangs, before the predicament was fully realized. Inquiry for another coach brought the response that there was none to be had. A previous count had demonstrated the fact that as many coaches had left as had arrived with our party. Wherefore then, the surplus of passengers? Undesirous of being isolated in the Park with the other pil- grims San Francisco bound, the stranded Sir Knight made a hasty inquiry for a telegraph office and was agreeably surprised to find one in the hotel. Without an instant's delay, he wired the manage- ment of the coach company, probably 100 miles distant, telling of the predicament, and making an urgent plea for another coach. With "red-taped" leisureness the management wired back for "a full and detailed report of how it happened." As this required statement would mean an expression of about 1000 words, and as the prevailing toll in the park was four cents a word, the Sir Knight, with rare mathematical aptitude, figured that it would cost him about $40, and realizing that horses could be bought in that wilder- ness for about $10 each (if one was disinclined to go out and catch a wild one) he decided to try a quicker means of relief. A second thought also brought the conclusion that, although the detailed re- port might have been satisfactory, that it would be tiresome to wait until another coach could be brought from headquarters, 100 miles away. Leaving the ladies in the hotel where he provided for their comfort, the Sir Knight sought the coach company's barn in the rear of the hotel in hopes of securing a rig to carry the forsaken to their friends. Beating his way through underbrush and far into the woods in the dangerous vicinity in which we saw the unscrupu- lous bears the night previous, the lonely Sir Knight eventually came upon a hostler pitching hay in what appeared to be a barn. Approaching the man with all possible grace the Sir Knight made an eloquent plea for a horse, which surpassed any effort ever credit- ed to Richard III. Whether or not the stranger was agreeably impressed will probably never be known, for he replied in a mixed and unintelligent jargon, which appealed to the ear as a mixture of Slavonish, Chinese and Greek. The stranger's speech did not give the slightest clue of any one fixed modern tongue. After a disappointing search of the shed to find that there was not a horse in sight, the Sir Knight wended his way back through the woods dodging shadows for bears. Arriving at the hotel one of the overseers of the stage company was found. His supervision was limited to the district embraced within a radius of 50 miles and he had power to take official action. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 91 He was gruff in his manner, but by tactful approach was gracious enough to listen to the story of the stranded troupe. He contend- ed that the coach company was not in error that as many coaches were provided as had arrived at the hotel. However, he finally con- sented, in consideration of a $10 fee, to use his own rig and drive the lost sheep back into the fold at the station ahead. This bar- gain was cheerfully entered into, and starting two hours after the last coach had left, the four forsaken gave chase after the advance guard. The greeting that awaited them at the hands of the pil- grims when they arrived was solicitous and impressive. Some thought that the bears had eaten the missing quartet, while there were others who believed that the Sir Knight had eloped with the three ladies. An investigation was at once started to learn how the surplus of passengers was made possible, when as many coaches had left Fountain as had arrived there the day previous. This mystery was soon cleared up when it became known that two of the larger coaches had been changed for smaller ones, making the gross ac- commodation four less, and the four passengers who graciously saw the other pilgrims seated first were left to themselves among the geysers. This exchange of coaches was branded as a commercial trick on the part of the two drivers to accommodate another transient party, and after vigorous complaint the original coaches were restored and the $10 fee was eventually refunded. We had ridden for two hours through wild country and found our happy meeting in the world-famous and unequaled "Faithful Inn," probably the most picturesque tavern in the world. The drive to the inn was over smooth roads and riding was most delightful. Now and again a slight rain storm would come up, but never so serious as to interfere with the pleasure of the trip. The stranded quartet were favored with a fast team in a light barouch. The driv- er reached into his vest pocket and brought forth the stump of a cigar, about one inch in length, and setting his teeth firmly upon it, found renewed energy which he applied to the horses. After he carried the stump for a half-hour, the Sir Knight beside him thought it would be Christian charity to give him a light, and forth- with handed him a Wheeling stogie which he had just lighted. The driver accepted it graciously and carefully returned his cigar stump to his vest pocket. His sociability was unequaled for so short an acquaintance. Presently he brought the horses to a halt, and turning the lines over to the Sir Knight with the request: "Pard, hold these a min- ute," descended from the box and took a drink from a small pool, by means of a tin can. When he returned his face bore a careworn 92 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE look and appeared dejected. "I am sick," he declared. The strong stogie was too much for him, and thereby was demonstrated the fact that even a tenderfoot from Allegheny can sustain things which the strenuous man of the west finds beyond his physique. Our drive to "Old Faithful Inn" was through the Middle Gey- ser Basin and along the Firehole River. Continuing, we came in sight of Hell's Half Acre, a locality of 50 acres which is rife with hot springs and geysers, and whose waters continually boil and splutter and spout above the surface. Many legends are told as to how Hell's Half Acre derived its name, but they all find their be- ginning in the heated, sulphurous vomitings of 'the vicinity. The whole basin is surrounded and bespecked with timbered hills of pine, whose aroma is fragrant in contrast to the fumes of sulphur and lime deposits which the wayfarer is compelled to sniff almost continually. At the foot of the Half Acre is a lake whose waters are bluish-green, but which shade into deposits of the brightest of red as they flow down to the river. The great "Ex- celsior" Geyser lies in the Middle Geyser Basin. It is of enormous power but operates only at uncertain periods. When active, it throws out such an immense amount of water as to double the flow of the river. Its crater, which is 100 yards wide, is lined with most beautiful colorings of sulphur deposits. The waters boil vio- lently in the throat of the crater at all times and bubble and splut- ter their way to a constant outflow almost incessantly. When rag- ing, "Excelsior" Geyser throws a column of water 200 feet high. Beyond the Half Acre to the west, and along our driveway, lay a great acreage of seething hot springs and geysers which grumble and steam like seething cauldrons that know no rest. The place is uncanny, the footing treacherous, and the vicinity is the hottest in the park. Furiously boiling waters and continued sprays of varied volume, disrupted and crust-dried lime and sulphur de- posits discolor vegetable growth within sight of the eye, and whiten tree trunks as would a new coat of whitewash. Suddenly an unusually large spurt of boiling water leaped into the air. Even those far removed from any possibility of danger shrank back in fear of an impromptu over-heated shower-bath. This was the "Riverside" Geyser. Its crater was ragged and from out of its slippery, slimy funnel the water rose and fell 10 feet at a time, then bubbled and boiled over, driving away the spectators in a scamper. Following the desolate shores of the Firehole River for several miles, we passed through a region of extinct geysers that was rife with active hot springs, jets of spouting steam rising out of the lime and sulphur crusted earth as far as the eye can see. Courtesy Northern Pacific Railroad. OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER-YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 93 Beyond is the largest field of geysers on earth the Upper Gey* ser Basin. Here are congregated a half hundred of the greatest geysers in the world over a territory of two or three square miles. Clouds of steaming water are continually shooting skyward, while the sulphur-bespattered earth is saturated with the hot water which is seeking its way from the geyser lips to the river. The paint pots working constantly, knead their sulphurous paste from side to side, and color the surface in variegated hues with their sputterings. The pride of the Upper Geyser Basin, and the first geyser which is shown visitors, is known as "Old Faithful." Its name was given because of its reliability in spraying at an appointed time. "Old Faithful" has a flat top, with a cone 200 feet in diameter which rises towards the center about 20 feet. Steam is constantly escap- ing, and as you approach, with the assurance that the next shot of water will not occur until the scheduled time, rumblings and dull explosions are heard beneath, while there is seemingly hollowness which creates fear as one treads near the mouth of the crater. Geysers all about rage and bellow, and make the air mist-like with their skyward plunges. The almost constant battery of spurt- ing streams of hot water, the restless paint pots, the ambitious and ever active hot springs, the bellowings and rumblings underneath, all seemed to indicate that some monstrous beast of the under- world was raging and frothing in a mad effort to obtain release. It was here at the edge of the Upper Geyser Basin and within sight of "Old Faithful" geyser that we found "Old ^aithful Inn." If ever the aims of a hotel builder in making a hostelry inviting to prospective guests were realized, it was in the building of "Old Faithful Inn." Built entirely of logs and used in their natural hewn state, the hotel is at once unique and strikingly beautiful. Its long, sloping roof which tapers down to almost the very ground, lends the cheer of the Swiss cottage, while the pillars of hewn logs which sup- port the main balconies lend a startling oddness which one learns to adore. Not only without, but also within, the building is constructed entirely of logs. Walls are formed of neatly matched tree trunks, which have been stripped of their bark and varnished, while doors and even window frames are constructed of the natural shaped wood. From the wide and roomy office and lobby on the ground floor one can look up through the building to the roof, the upper floors being balconied. These balconies are in themselves most artistic, and like all else in the construction of the house, are created from hewn logs and branches. Their special attractiveness lies in the fact that the posts and post-trimmings are perfectly matched and attest to the great labor and time which must have been employed in seeking and obtaining equal and almost identically shaped limbs and logs. The verandas, 94 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE ballroom, reception rooms, rathskeller, parlors, dining-room in a word, all the rooms in the house, even including the bed-rooms, were constructed in natural shaped wood, while a cleanliness prevailed that was faultless. Huge knots in the logs added a rugged beauty, but the inconceiv- able wonder was in the fact that the knots appeared in the wood- work in symmetrical rotation, showing further ingenuity in matching the natural wood. Greeting us at the doorway of this picturesque hostelry was "Larry," the manager. Everyone about the place, stranger, guest and visitor, knew him only by that familiar name, and as his friendli- ness left no room for formalities, we also knew him and learned to like him as "Larry." "Larry's" hand-shake was a welcome in itself and his verbal greeting given in a deep, hearty tone, left not the vestige of doubt of his sincerity. Each and every member of our party was greeted by the warm hand-shake of the cheerful and ac- commodating host. We were at once ushered into the dining-room to enter into com- bat with our appetites. While the meal was in itself of sufficient interest to appeal to us, we were fascinated by the rustic beauty of the interior, with its walls, ceiling and every detail constructed from trees in their own shape of growth, welded into one whole of artistic grace. A novel feature that presented itself in the dining-room was a huge and massive sideboard hewn out of petrified wood, which, in its silence, told eloquently of the times when our prehistoric fathers wandered through this garden of nature in the centuries of long ago. Great fireplaces were found on every floor and were set deep within the natural wood walls. Even in the construction of the doors was the natural wood effect carried out, and from floor to floor, room to room, and even door to door, there never seemed a monotony of this feature which was ever interesting and especially pleasing in its suggestion of comfort. Ever and anon we met "Larry" hurrying to and fro through the spacious building. Busy or not, he was ever ready to inquire into the comfort of each and every guest, and his demeanor was always so friendly that we found him quite as admirable as the very build- ing itself. After luncheon we strolled among the geysers and hot springs in the vicinity of the hotel, under the direction of a guide. He was evidently of foreign birth and as a test of his truthfulness would ac- company every explanation with the invitation: "If you don't belief it, dry it yourself." We believed him. Scattered about us were mounds of extinct geysers; and while they still steamed, had long since spent their force and were inactive. Courtesy Oregon Short Line R. R. MIDDLE AND UPPER GEYSER BASIN, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 95 In a field of these aged and indigent, stood "Old Faithful" geyser. We heard the rumbling and infallible symptoms of its eruption and hastened thither. Steam jets were shooting forth with increasing volume, and the internal confusion became greater. In a moment the rumbling blended into rolling thunder and while in its highest pitch of nervous growling and spraying, came the explosion, which threw the water higher and higher into the air, until it attained a column 150 feet in height the grand fountain was in play. The stream inclined to the north, and as the wind carried dense clouds of steam and sprays, huge splashes fell from the apex of the fountain upon the northward side of the cone which formed the geyser mouth. Unsatisfied in her effort, nature lends color to the scene by the aid of the sun, in painting beautiful rainbows upon the spraying waters. "Old Faithful," true to its name, rises out of its subterranean depths every 63 minutes, to the minute, operates for five minutes at a height of 150 feet, then gradually recedes to about 30 feet. After 6 minutes have elapsed, the geyser, in one concentrated dying effort, hurls forth a column 50 feet high and sinks back far down into the depths of the earth, to lie in repose until it has accumulated renewed energy in the customary interval of 63 minutes. After the geyser has spent its wrath, one can look down into the mouth with every degree of safety providing the look does not re- quire the allotted 63 minutes. As the eye penetrates the draughts of steam which pour out of the geyser mouth, one can see far down into the rocky recesses. Pools of water of transparent blue are left in the rock cleft pockets within the cone. The outer crust of the mouth is hard, brittle and porous, and less sulphurous than those of other geysers. The geysers of the Upper Basin form the waters of the Firehole River and pour 10,000,000 gallons into that stream daily. As we strolled about to the northward we meet the "Beehive" geyser whose tube is high. It is enclosed by a pile of geyserite formation, which from its appearance, gives the name "Beehive." Near by is a vent, which acting like a safety valve, shoots forth jets of steam before each eruption and thereby gives warning to inquisitive explorers. The spray of the "Beehive" attains a height of 200 feet. It operates but once or twice a day, usually at night. Nearby are the "Turban," "Lion," "Lioness" and their two cubs, and a little to the eastward is the "Giantess." The Lion group is of uncertain action and of small volume in comparison to the other geysers. The "Giantess," however, is worthy of the name. Seated upon her throne on the summit of a mound 50 feet high, this geyser presents 96 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE a depressed crater 18 by 24 feet, which is usually filled with dark-blue water. In other words, the "Giantess" is a most unfortunate woman in that she has no mouth though in the language of the geyser biographers, "her lips are very broad and fiat." Being so large she naturally moves slowly, and operates only at intervals, averaging every two weeks. But when the "Giantess" rises in her dignity she must be heard and usually is heard. Pre- vious notice of bursting anger is given by violent boiling and internal rumbling which terminate with an explosion that is terrific, and which at times shakes the hotel far removed, and frightens the inhabitants. Her sprays attain a height of 250 feet and operations usually con- tinue throughout an entire day. The spray of the "Giantess" is as wide as her crater, and through the center can be seen distinct jets forcing their way through the water-spout. Across the river is the "Castle," so named because of its castel- lated construction. Its action is uncertain, varying from once a day to every other day, and it throws a column of water 150 feet in height, which continues about 40 minutes and then tapers off in a series of insignificant spurts. Scattered about are geysers of small size and lesser force, which operate usually in sympathy with the larger geysers. The "Grand" geyser operates with great power and force, and when ready to spray, causes the earth to tremble while the internal thumpings and rumblings are fearful and threatening. Sucking in the water reposing in its crater, the geyser shoots forth in a solid column 200 feet high, with steam rising in clouds above. The water spout of the "Grand" seems to be composed of a com- bination of numerous separate jets which fall back into the funnel- shaped crater with a thunderous report at successive intervals. The "Saw-Mill" (rather insignificant) has a tube six inches in diameter. Its water column, thrown 40 feet high, gives the peculiar sound of a saw, caused by the puffs of steam ejected alternately with the water jets. The "Wash Tubs," small basins with diameters of about 10 feet and whose bottoms are lined with orifice, are nearby. If clothes or any foreign matter is put into these basins, the washing process is industriously carried out, then suddenly, water, clothes and all, are sucked down into the deep recesses of the basins. After a time the water reappears and back come the clothes. The "Devil's Well" nearby is a broad basin of ever boiling water of a beautiful blue cast. It often serves the purpose for tour- ists to boil eggs, potatoes and other articles of food in its steaming waters. The "Comet" geyser stands near the well. It explodes several times during the day but its spray never attains great height. Courtesy Northern Pacific Railroad. THE GIANT GEYSER-YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 97 The "Giant" is the great geyser of the Upper Basin. Its cone stands upon almost level surface and is broken and irregular in shape. A glance into its interior discloses formations and deposits of beau- teous hues and of iridescent splendor. Brilliant colors representing hundreds of shades, interblend in making the lining attractive. The "Giant," like the majority of geysers, is uncertain in action but usually operates every fourth day. A vent in its side and the action of numerous "Little Devils" located nearby, gives ample notice of the rising fury of the "Giant." When the monster does break loose he holds sway 90 minutes. The outburst comes like a tornado, and the water that gushes forth doubles the flow of the river during its operation. Its column rises to a height of 250 feet and is eight feet in diameter. The water bursts forth in a sea of steam that per- vades the whole valley and holds a perfectly erect position during operation. The "Catfish" and "Grotto" are geysers in the immediate vicinity which are of odd and irregular formation but vigorous spouters, though their waters reach no great altitude. The "Fan" geyser is well named. It has five tubes which are spread out symmetrically, and during an eruption they give the ap- pearance of an open fan. The center tube throws a spout 100 feet high and operations occur three or four times a day and continue 15 minutes. The "Splendid" spouts 200 feet into the air every three hours and continues in action about 10 minutes. The "Pyramid" and "Punch Bowl" have ceased operation. The first has become merely a steam jet, while the latter is a serrated-edged mound within which rests an elegant pool of deep blue water. "Morning Glory Spring" is a marvelously tinted pool, shaped and colored in great similarity to the flower after which it is named. Its outer edges rest level with the surface of the ground and bear a rich, variated blend of pink. Tapering towards the center, rich shades of purple and blue interblend until the center is reached, where the bottomless hole finds its way into the depths of the earth bearing a purple-black hue. These geysers attain a boiling point of 250 degrees at a depth of 70 feet when in a state of activity, and the steam so suddenly generated gives the necessary force to lift the great spouts of water out of the depths of the earth to the surface. Government soldiers patrol the geyser fields as a protection to the geysers. Their particular function is to prevent curio seekers from demolishing the cones and chipping them, or otherwise disturbing the natural trend of the geysers. Another special duty of these (7) 98 A; MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE guardsmen is to prevent sight-seers from throwing foreign matter into the craters. The geysers do not like to be fed and show great resentment at having articles thrown into their mouths. They be- come especially indignant and furious if given soap. Their resent- ment of soap is a great peculiarity of the geyser, though they are rather human in this. It is a well founded and established fact that if soap is thrown into the mouth of an active geyser, it rages and becomes inconsolable for a whole day. It seems to weaken their stomachs and acts as a powerful emetic, causing them to hurl forth all that has accumulated in their depths. It must be admitted, with a degree of humiliation, that no member of our party had any soap. Hence we sought no opportunity to evade the guardsmen and satisfy our curiosity. Slowly and reluctantly we left the geyser fields, and in obedience to the call of the* falling shades of evening, made our way back to the hotel. Several members of the party (none of the ladies) desired the services of a barber. History repeats itself. No barber shop found place in the otherwise complete hostelry. Again the unshaven were directed to the boiler room and left to the mercies of the engineer and fireman. It is not the intent of the writer to strike pity in the hearts of the reader, nor encourage tears and inconsolable sorrow. So we will refrain from a minute description of the suffering and tortures of the bearded while they were being shaven. Suffice to say, we identified each victim that entered the boiler room by a number, so as to avoid any difficulty in recognizing him when he returned. Meanwhile, other members of the party plucked wild flowers as a fitting tribute in case of necessity. With the same charity as was manifested at the Fountain hotel, the bears in the vicinity of "Old Faithful Inn" were fed in a like manner ; from the garbage heap in the rear of the hotel. In order to draw a correct comparison of the devouring ability of these bears with the others, we viewed the feeding with interest. The greater majority of guests at this garbage banquet were blacks bears, and surely did justice to the spread. However, while in the midst of a course, before dessert had been served, a huge grizzly strode majes- tically into sight, and without an effort conquered and took individual possession. The black bears scattered in fright at the approach of this monarch, who was gracious enough to delay his entry until the other species of his family had at least a munch or two though he did not give them opportunity for the customary formality of de- livering after-dinner speeches. It was a source of great pleasure to us to again meet our Fraters and friends from Mary Commandery at the hotel. They had A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 99 traveled in our wake and reached the hotel several hours after our arrival. Greetings were hearty and cordial on all sides, and pre- viously made friendships were cemented more strongly, if that were possible. The gathering at dinner was a large and enthusiastic one. The coziness of the oddly constructed dining-room lent zest to the ap- petite and conversation. We were served by waitresses in quaint and comely attire and of pleasant personality. They were young women far above the station of those who usually serve in that capacity; for many school teachers and women of like vocation take the op- portunity of so earning a pleasant summer vacation within the Yel- lowstone National Park. The dress of the waitresses were so attractive that the writer, in his unfamiliarity of technical makeup of ladies' garments, or the welding process necessary to wrought them into shape, appealed to Sir Heckel for a description, and the latter took special pride in being able to talk intelligently upon the subject. According to Sir Heckel the gowns conformed to this description : "They were simple foulard gros de laine trimmed with lemon- colored orange blossoms a la Merode. Overskirts of embroidered cheese-cloth hung loosely from the waist and were cut bias about the accordion-plaited skirt binding. Facings of hemstitched petit polo- naise, with insertions, were draped about the shoulders and basted to the back, upon which flourished a liberal crop of hooks and eyes." While the writer has not the ability of Sir .Heckel to enter into a discussion of the artistic merits of this combination, he can at least attest to the fact that the waitresses looked especially alluring and fascinating in this attire. After dinner the guests distributed themselves about the great drawing-room, verandas, porches and grounds, and entered into the enjoyment of an evening that inscribed itself indelibly upon our mem- ories. One member of the Mary Commandery was a clergyman, and he presided during a short devotional service, after which a concert and recital was given by members from both parties. We had some talent with us that was not publicly displayed upon this occasion, and to save Sirs Gilchrist and Burry and Aberli from any unnecessary humiliation, we will not mention names. One of the features of the evening was offered by a viewing of the eruption of "Old Faithful" geyser by searchlight, with which the hotel was equipped. The sight was one that beggars description. As the great light shot out from the tower of the hostelry, it uncere- moniously revealed the bears in the woods. How they scattered and scampered off under the rays of the powerful light was a source of great amusement. 100 A MERRY CRUSADE TO' THE GOLflDEN GATE The curio store is ever present and found special attraction at "Old Faithful Inn," with its offerings of the many-colored sands from the canyon geyser deposits, and photographs of the odd and novel hotel. With the diligence of the faculty of a ladies' seminary, the hotel management orders lights extinguished after a certain hour. But to guide the belated wayfarer, candles were lighted and placed about in nooks especially in the walls and pillars for that purpose. The effect was beautiful as the lights cast their soft rays upon the natural wooded walls and the interior. A watchman patroled the building with lantern swung upon his arm, and added additional romance to the scene. A pilgrim was seated in a broad arm chair, concluding a letter to a far-off friend or relative when the lights were extinguished, and with an accommodation that prevailed among all attaches of the house, the watchman placed a few candles upon the arm of his chair, so that the letter-writer's signature might find the proper place upon the letter sheet. One by one the pilgrims had found their resting places for the night. If such a thing were possible, our apartments were too allur- ing and comfortable for sleep. In accord with the construction scheme of the whole house, the walls and doors and everything per- taining to the sleeping apartments was constructed of wood in its natural state. The effect was so pleasing to the eyes that it was diffi- cult to close them. As we viewed the cheerfulness of the room, the pleasures and activities of the day were reviewed in our minds and the mysteries of the marvels of nature became further mystifying until relieved by sleep. CHAPTER X. HE pilgrims were all early risers on the morning of Monday, August 29. When we beheld the odd walls of the Woodland Hotel we were quickly conscious of our whereabouts and the glad memories of the preceding day were instantly refreshed. Enthused with the vigor that saturates the early riser in Yellow- stone Park, we responded quickly to a sunrise call to breakfast and ate heartily and gossiped cheerfully. Promptly at 7 :30 o'clock our coaches were lined up and in wait- ing for the drive of the day, which was to find its termination at the Yellowstone Lake. The usual anxiety prevailed in making sure that all baggage was ready for conveyance and that no companion would A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 101 again be stranded. Just as we were assured that everything was ready for the start, a misunderstanding occurred in which Mr. Joseph Null and Sir McFarland were most deeply interested. Mr. Null was perplexed and hatless. The latter condition gave reason for the former. Some person had taken his cap. Even the bears were suspected for you know bears are always bare-headed. Sir McFarland was known to have worn a hat on the previous even- ing, while on this gladsome morn he wore a cap that was nowise un- like the one which Mr. Null missed. But as McFarland, as we already know, was the only man in the party equipped with the good book, the investigation was not carried so far. Realizing the sedate mannerisms of the latter, he was not cross-examined but in voluntary testimony admitted that his hat had also been taken and preaching from the text: "He helps those who help themselves," admitted that he had come in possession of the cap he wore by contact. However, what threatened to become a case for Government investigation, inasmuch as the al- leged connivance was hatched on Government territory, became averted by Sir McFarland gracefully and charitably offering cover- ing for the head of a fellow-being by giving Mr. Null the cap which was his, while another Sir Knight presented Sir McFarland with an auxiliary headgear. As we stood ready to enter the coaches, our royal host "Larry" rushed out among us and bade each and every member of the party goodbye with a hearty hand-shake that had a warmth which came straight from the heart. With a word of best wishes he assisted us into the coaches and with the crack of the whip, a command or two from the drivers and a rousing hurrah from the members of our party mingled with those of the guests of the hotel whom we were leaving behind, the mustangs pranced high into the air and then shot forward to speed over the roadways to the end of the day's travel. The route pointed to the east and through the heart of the Rocky Mountains until the trail leads out on the West Thumb of Yellowstone Lake. Owing to the winding roadway necessary to span the mountains, the Continental Divide was tvvice crossed on the way, and a curious loop was made to the northward, the second cross- ing being at an elevation of 8,500 feet. In the far distance the Grand Tetons were visible, as the driver halted and pointed majestically with his whip. We could see a dim, vapor-like outline, bracketed in the clouds. It had the appearance of a silvery-white lining of a fair blue sky and seemed as mist rather than reality. Following a slowly descending trail we reached West Thumb station and caught the first glimpse of the Yellowstone Lake. The lake is at 7,740 feet elevation and has a coast-line of 150 miles. 102 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GAJTE The lake has indented bays in its western and southern shores, which give it an irregular outline very similar to the form of the human hand. There are five of these bays and they are known as the "Thumb" and "Fingers." The "Thumb" is the widest of these bays and as our stop was on the western shore of the bay bearing that name, the station is known as "West Thumb." This station has for its chief attraction a lunch room ; a long, one-story frame building, neatly equipped and clean, and we were served with a plain but satisfying luncheon. The pilgrims as a whole found no startling innovation at West Thumb lunch station, although Sir Beckert was forced to admit that he had lived a hand-to-mouth existence during his eventful career, but had never before been forced to take food from the thumb. While there is a certain degree of appropriateness in designating Yellowstone Lake and its bays as a hand with five fingers, because of the number of its bays, it must be admitted with truth that the hand is deformed and distorted. It is probably for this reason that it does not wear the wedding ring. The "Thumb" is wider than it is long; the forefinger is detached and shriveled; the middle finger gives indication of having been dislocated or victimized in some painful catastrophe, while the "little finger" is in truth the largest finger of all. The combination there- fore, presents a hand that no bachelor visitor might be expected to plead for. After luncheon we paid a short visit to the paint pots and hot springs in the immediate vicinity. On the very edge of the lake itself, and spreading out into its very waters, is an actual geyser crater whose waters boil, and seethe, and bubble over, and run into the cool waters of the lake. There is an old story told visitors that a fisherman can stand upon the bank of the lake and catch fish, turn about and drop them into the crater while still on the line and then detach them ready to serve caught and boiled while you wait, as it were. This op- portunity presents itself by the provisions of nature, but the only doubt that rises in the mind of the patient listener of this story is whether or not he has cultivated the necessary appetite to make fresh caught and boiled fish palatable, when thoroughly seasoned by the brimstone and sulphur which the geyser crater offers gratis during the boiling operation. The surface about West Thumb is a waste of volcanic ashes through which vegetation is only now beginning to struggle. Here and there are cavities bearing many-colored watermarks around their rims and filled with muddy deposits. These signs mark the tombs of one-time active geysers and tell the tale, even after death, UPPER GEYSER BASIN TO THE LAKE-YELLOWSTONE '.riy Oregon Short Line R. R. NATIONAL PARK. i Jackson Lake and Teton Mountains. 2 Obsidian Cliff ( Volcanic Glass). 3 The Teton Range. 4 Elk. 5 Emi- grant Peak. 6 Buffalo. 7 Tourists Among the Bears. 8 Bear " A La Cart.'' 9 Amid the Spray and Roar.. 10 Yel- lowstone Lake, n Lake Hotel. 12 Hayden Valley, between Lake and Falls. 13 Golden Gate, East Entrance. 14 Road to Yellowstone Canyon. 15 Bridge near Grand Canyon. 16 Eagle Nest Rock, Gardner River. 17 Golden Gate Canyon. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 103 that their crevices, too, have nursed the tossed and turbulent blue waters, which in the days gone by filled them to the brim and flowed over their lips. Notwithstanding the ravages of old age and disability, the scene has not been robbed of its extraordinary mystery and beauty. The air rings with the rhapsodies of the raging paint pots, with their splutterings, tossings, growlings, rumblings and splashings. The hot, soft clay is coated in many hues and blends flawless white, yellow-white, red, blue, gray, pink, pale green and composite shades, all muddled and mixed in a splendor that dazzles the eye. Several companions carried off lumps of this many-colored clay, but in a half-hour it had dried into lime-dust and could be blown away into nothingness, in true fable fashion. Re-entering our coaches, we were driven over a rocky and hilly road. Just as the path became rockiest and when traveling became least comfortable, we reached a point where we obtained a better and clearer view of the lake than had before presented itself, and we lost the discomforts of riding in our observations. Suddenly the pathway took a downward trend, then sloped sharply. The roads were newly made and the rains caused them to be muddy and holding. Oft-times we rode on the two side wheels of the coach, while the passengers clutched the seat posts and each other in fran- tic efforts to stay within. Down and up we rolled and tossed like a rudderless ship afloat on the wild wave. As we rode onward the scenery became less attractive for a time. The shores of the lake bore uninteresting and uniform slopes and were lined with marshes and pine trees. Occasionally the monotony was relieved by tiny islands which dotted the blue waters, while at times waterfowl would hover over the marshes in large numbers. For two or three hours we jogged along, up and down, over the road that skirts the lake, with a dim and dream-like picture of a watery expanse, veiled by the pines, before us. Gradually a sprinkling rain that had been falling upon us took courage and de- veloped into a heavy downpour. It quickly changed to hail, which fell in such density as to screen everything from view but the near- est objects. The dampened air became chilly and uncomfortable it was more than chilly, it was cold. We wrapped ourselves in gayly colored blankets, which slowly but surely turned pale after sighting the weather elements. In other words, the colors ran from the blankets in fear of the hail and rain, and when we removed them, we found the red and the blue and green and yellow sheltered under the blankets themselves, and pressed into our own wearing apparel. The seasoned drivers sat unsheltered on the top of the coaches, 104 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE allowing themselves to become water-soaked without a miurmur of complaint, and if they gave any indication of their feelings, they seemed to like it. It settled the dust on their clothes. After a time, when we had entered a valley, the storm began to abate, but it remained cool and misty and the waters of the lake be- came rough. Presently a vast, black cloud on the opposite side of the lake, and to our right, dissolved, and uncurtained mountains of grand proportions and soaring loftiness. They were black as the night, with the exception of their snow-capped summits. Their appearance surprised us, for we had supposed that there was naught behind that low-hung blanket of sable cloud but level valleys. What we had mistaken for fleeting glimpses of dark clouds were in reality patches of snowy crest shredded into rents by the drifting dark clouds. Presently the Lake Hotel loomed into view and at 4:30 o'clock in the afternoon we pulled up to its entrance, tired after the rough ride and rougher weather, but joyful and anxious to get under its sheltering roof and enjoy its hospitality. The hotel was of rich artistic beauty and is the largest in the park. Its architecture is of Colonial type and the entrance with its wide porch and massive, high columns, is not unlike the entrance to the White House. The hotel is very roomy throughout and its long and wide corridor on the main floor was inviting and com- fortable. Shortly after our arrival, Sir Beckert startled us by announc- ing that he was going fishing in the lake, because he had been taught that the fish were more susceptible after a rainstorm than at any other time. He started out with the best wishes of the entire party, and special instructions not to allow his fishing ambitions to interfere with his truth-telling. He returned an hour later with an enormous fish. He refused to tell where he bought it. Nevertheless, it was of such alluring aspect that all appetites at once became sharpened, only to be disappointed by the announcement that it was to be given over to the hotel chef for preparation for breakfast in the morning. After a satisfying dinner, we were agreeably surprised to find our fraters and friends of Mary's Commandery drilling on the spacious verandas of the hotel, fitting themselves for their showing at the Conclave. The evening was spent in glorious entertainment among our old friends; music, dancing, laughter and good cheer were the di- versities. Not to be outdone by opposition, this hotel also had its patronage of bears, who found their way to the garbage heap with the same aptitude as their brethren at the Faithful Inn and Fountain A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 105 Hotel. The night was raw and cold, and few ventured outside of the cheerful and inviting hostelry. A few of the boldest took short walks in the vicinity of the hotel and lake. Then the soft gloam- ing, with the spectacle of the dying lights of day playing about the crests and pinnacles of the still and solemn upper realm of the sleep- ing mountains on the opposite side of the lake, created a contrast that offered a text for talk. There was no sound but the dulled, complaining waves of the lake and the echo of the laughter and merriment of those within the hotel. On the outside the spirit that prevailed was one of deep, pervading peace. On a fair day or night it must be beautiful, but on such a night as we experienced one might dream his life tranquilly away and not miss it, or mind it when it was gone. The day had departed with the small installment paid by the sun, and a cool, almost wintry night came with the stars. Back to the hotel a final smoke on the veranda facing the waters and mountains a summing up of the day's events; then within the hotel an hour or two to think and talk it over, or perhaps a few stories to relate. A final "good night," "good night" and to bed, with drowsy brains harassed with a mad panorama that mixes up pictures of paint pots, of geysers, of pools, of hot springs and of the lake and of home, in grotesque and bewildering disorder. Then a melting away of dear familiar faces, of scenes, of the hail and rain, the tumble and toss over new made roads, and of the boisterous waves of the lake in- to a great calm of forgetfulness and peace and after which the nightmare. CHAPTER XI. 'RESH, invigorating breezes from the lake rejuvenated the early rising pilgrims on the morning of Tuesday, August 30. The first call of the breakfast bell found a ready response. Sir Beckert beamed with delight in keen anticipation of the kingly morsel he felt he had in store in the serving of the massive fish, which it was alleged he had caught on the preceding evening. When the first course was served Frederick merely whetted his appetite for the feast and graciously promised those seated at his table a share of the fish if their conduct deserved it. He playfully tapped his fingers on the table to some tune while awaiting the tooth- some dish, but when the second course was served the fisherman grew 106 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE anxious. The third and fourth courses were passed along, and still no fish; Sir Beckert could only be quieted by having his attention drawn to the peals of laughter coming from another table. The climax came when the waiter anxiously inquired if there was "any thing else?" Then Sir Beckert rose to his highest declamatory ability and in the pure Shakespearean inquired: "Where is my fish?" The waiter shook his apron and admitted he did not have it. He scurried off into the kitchen at the command of the disappointed fisherman, while continued laughter from the other end of the room seemed to mock the dramatic effect of the scene. "The fish has already been served," announced the breathless waiter upon his return, whereupon there was a scurry of fleeing diners from the table at the other end of the room. The mystery was solved! Some ingenious and fish-devouring member of our party had informed the chef what table should be decorated by the carcass of the fish and when Sir Beckert viewed the remains there was nothing left for him but the "wish-bone." In the rain, hail and cold of the preceding day our impressions were not flattering. We thought the lake not very attractive. On this early morning we were free to confess that we had erred somewhat in our judgment, though not very materially. The east, whose opal tints we had previously noted, had changed to tender rose and was now inundated with the flames of the sun, whose disc we began to perceive above the mountain tops. The lake looked like an immense mirror calm and beautiful. To the right it reflected the mountain scenery while waterfowl chirped and flew about for an hour or more. Gradually the spectacle grew in magnificence as the beauty of the morn unfolded itself, and like the birds, we felt inclined to raise our voices in song. About 9 o'clock we started upon the day's journey, which was to find its wonderful climax at the Grand Canyon. The road lay along the Yellowstone River, which has its source in Bridger Lake to the southeast of the park, and flows northward through a broad valley between generally snow-capped mountain ridges of volcanic origin, some of whose peaks rise to an elevation of 11,000 feet. It is a sluggish stream with heavy timbered banks, much of the initial valley being marsh. The river flows into Yellowstone Lake from whence we started. The road was generally smooth and led up and down over a succession of hills. Here and there the path was narrow, but the horses were accustomed to the path and never left it, while the drivers found ample time to entertain them- selves and their passengers. So closely did the coaches follow each other at times that the A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 10T horses of the coach in the rear would socially project their noses into the rear of the coach in front, while the drivers would stand upon their seats and shout to one another in continued conversation. When the top of a hill was reached we would go flying down the other side, with no change in the program. In this manner we went whizzing down a long incline with nobody in a position to know whether or not we were bound to destruction. Amidst jesting, singing and laughter, our conversation would constantly revert to the anticipation of the scenes we were to be- hold within the next hour or two. Our drivers and friends had told us of the wonders of the Grand Canyon, which neither pen nor brush could adequately portray in splendor. We had heard of the preci- pices that seem to rise straight up out of the bowels of the earth; the falls with their roar of thunder, dashing into the canyons below; the eagles' nests perched upon the dizzy heights of the precipice eaves, and the rainbow-tinted sands and rocks that bedeck the canyon sides. We had heard the stories of the beautiful cascade that leaps from the rugged heights, robed in a powdery spray, ruffled with foam and girdled with a rainbow. We longed to look upon these things, for to look upon them, they told us, was to look upon the last possibility of the sublime and the enchanting. It was because of this that we talked chiefly of the pleasures that were to come. If we were conscious of any impatience, it was to get there in favorable season ; if we felt any anxiety it was that the day might remain perfect and serve us a flawless gaze upon these marvels when they were at their best. The road carried us near a field of mud geysers, which spluttered in nervous restlessness. Then we passed down through Hayden Valley, on and on in proximity of the Sulphur Mountains. Flowers poked out their heads along the water's edge, some entirely new to us while others greeted us as old acquaintances. Soon we arrived at a large, magnificent bridge whose great archway spanned a beau- tiful valley. We drove over the structure and then then we ar- rived at the very edge of the mighty cliff that stands as Nature's fitting monument to her own glory the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone ! Astonished beyond the most fanciful anticipation, we gazed down upon a panorama in the marvelously beautiful canyon; a deep gorge where a glance sweeps from the rocky heights to a valley so confined, so sombre, so solemn and beautiful. We stood at the very top of the canyon at a place where, after continually rising, a superb sheet of water found release and fell with a dash and a roar, while on either side the rocky flanks steamed with foam. We ventured so near that we were smitten 108 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE with a desire to place our hands into the water and touch the roar- ing current. The waters cried out with a roar as they made their first leap, but the cry of fright and fear of injury was smothered in the depth of the fall embedded far below. We could scarcely move for pleas- ure and surprise, we seemed spell-bound by the grandeur which the canyon revealed. Everything swayed the spectator. We leaned upon a wooden rail nearby, which trembled under our weight, and charmed by the aspect, we went to the extremity of the rail then we leaned against the giant rocks that seemed to speak in thunderous tones, and raged with effervescing foam emitting from their mouths, as the falls coursed on in their mad, downward flight. Here the sight became more threatening as we stood nearer to the frightful, plunging waters. The forbidding but splendid abyss angrily threw a shower of pearls in the face of those who dare ven- ture near. One becomes enchanted and speechless, and it is repul- sive to be spoken to and to have inspiration shattered as one gazes and listens to Nature's continuous extravaganza in the music, the song, the cry, the roar, the thunder, the lightning of the storm-chariot, the pyrotechnics of the waters, when, suddenly, after a persistent gaze, the onlooker feels as if the world had turned upside down. After allowing ourselves sufficient time to admire the prospect of the magnificent falls, we re-entered our coaches and drove along the edge of the precipice to "Point Lookout." On reaching the lip of the cliff and peering over the dizzy heights, (from a point of general vantage superior to that at the falls) the wonderful and unique character of the magnificent canyon burst upon us. It is a hopeless task to endeavor to convey in words an idea of the scene that lay before us, since, as was remarked on the spot, an accomplished painter, even by a series of views studded with the jewels of his heart, could but impart a faint impression of the glorious sight; for to obtain the color effects he would have to dip his brush in the hues of the rainbow and allow the moisture to dry upon the canvas with his own breath, while his soul was en- tranced with awe, and the spirit of inspiration animated his very being. Reluctantly we made our way to the hotel at the noon hour and found luncheon ready, but our hunger was keener in the desire to return and feast upon the scenes from whence we had come than were our appetites for the more prosaic meal that stood before us. We had an hour's rest at the hotel and during that brief period quietude reigned round, and a spirit of tranquility and serenity spread over us, and entwined the realm of space about us. There Courtesy Oregon Short Lint R. R. Photo, by F.Jay Haynet GREAT FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE-YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. A MERRY ORUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 109 was a something that seemed to implore, that plead, that urged, and whispered in our ears "You have not seen it all." Nature, like a child, was calling us to hasten and see more of its playthings, and childlike we hastened thither. We drove along the rim of the canyon to "Grand View," the "Brink" and other lofty view points, and it was here that we learned just what the canyon was we were in a manner stunned and unable to comprehend the vastness of the scene. It was not until we had arrived at the edge of "Grand View" and peered over the edge of the cliffs that the scene dawned upon us in its full might, majesty and glory. We could hear the roar and see the rushing waters in their fall, then passing through the canyon far below the winding stream made its way. The Crystal Falls formed a perfect grotto in the side of the canyon. Deep down in the canyon sides is the brilliant lining of many-hued sands the white, the orange, the red, the gray, the purple in fact all colors and shades known to man, blended together under the piercing rays of the sun into a light yellow, from whence the river achieves its name. The river dashes to the brink of the Lower Falls through a pass not 100 feet wide and rushing over the cataract, plunges down 300 feet amid a spray that showers its pearly drops about in mad confusion. As the restless current madly seeks an outlet, its water turns in hue from green to blue in variating shades. It was an extraordinary panorama that greeted our eyes as we gazed from "Grand View" and the "Brink." The colors of the canyon were so transcendent, so tender, so transparent, so harmonious. We shut our eyes momentarily and still the vision remained. We still could see the amber sands; the pink and pearly walls; the cat- aract rocks, chocolate-brown, black, purple and polished; the lofty alpines that clustered here and there, bespattered and flecked with the yeasty foam over all the blue and burning sky, permeated with light that palpitated everything with its sunshine. As we look back upon that scene the inadequacy of words be- comes apparent and all efforts to describe the indescribable be- come mere presumptions. Words are useful instruments, but like the etching needle and the burin, they stop short at form. They fail in their effort to translate color and striking beauty. As we slowly ventured down the narrow path along the falls we realized that we had never before even dreamt of anything as lovely as the sight we beheld. We stood in the glorious sunlight among pine trees, that, while they towered high into the air, were but pigmies like our- selves in the presence of even the lowest step in the falls, which 110 A MERRY CRUSADE TQ THE GOLDEN GATE leaped and dashed from such a height that the current lost all sem- blance of water. Dashing down over the rocks, the waters formed a splendid bouquet of glistening rockets, which, instead of rushing heavenward, shot down as if from the blue canopy which seemed to touch the brink far above us. Like a spray of falling stars, which seemed to storm down upon us in separate showers, until they blended together in bands of thou- sands in a grand avalanche of frothy, fleecy foam, the falls raged and thundered until they were lost in a seething whirlpool that found shelter in the boulders below. The most exquisite moment arrived when we reached some spot where the sun's rays streamed past and transformed the light vapor into irridescent rainbow-prisms which girdled the waters in their mystic circle. As the pyrotechnic waters shot through these belts of radiance, they seemed to carry the colors of the dancing sun- beam with them and made the vivid rainbow elastic. When we again attained the summit of the canyon we bade adieu to the exquisite scene. The pathway was steep, necessitating fre- quent rests under the overshadowing pines whose feathery branches fringed the steep cliffs and served as weathervanes to show the trend of the breezes. It was a silent party that made its way back to the hotel, for all remained in deep thought, reviewing the wonders of the canyon in the mind. Upon our arrival at the hostelry we regaled ourselves with a satisfying dinner. Following dinner, members of our party and several from Mary Commandery, who had again caught up with us, offered a vocal, instrumental and elocutionary entertainment, which found its conclusion in an instructive lecture on the Yellowstone National Park by an old inhabitant. The old gentleman related some interesting anecdotes during the course of his address. One bore on the democracy of Pres- ident Roosevelt, whom he guided through the park. The President had been given special permission to shoot in the park but refused to accept any special privileges. The lecturer also told several in- teresting stories of his experience with buffalo, deer and other an- imals in the park. Reverting to a discussion of the park itself, the speaker said in part: "Yellowstone National Park, which covers an area of 5,500 square miles within the Rocky Mountains, was set aside by Con- gress as a public reservation and pleasure-ground. It lies chiefly in northwestern Wyoming but extends into Montana to the north and into Idaho to the west. Its store of natural curiosities is Courtesy O. S. L. R. R. and N. P. R. R. SCENES AT THE GRAND CANYON-YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 111 greater than that of any other area of equal size in the world and within it are the sources of some of America's greatest rivers. The Yellowstone, Gardiner and Madison Rivers, the headwaters of the Missouri are born within the park, while the Snake River which is a source of the Columbia of Oregon, and the Green River which feeds the Colorado, find their source in this reservation. "The center of the park is marked by a great, broad, volcanic plateau which has an average height of 8,000 feet above sea-level. It is fringed with mountains and peaks which attain an extreme al- titude of 12,000 feet. "The park contains the most elevated lake in the world Yellow- stone Lake. The Yellowstone River flows into the lake, then out of it to the northward, through a magnificent canyon. Tower Creek, which flows through a gloomy pass known as Devil's Den and which at one point has a fall of 156 feet, is the most remarkable tributary of the Yellowstone. Owing to the peculiar existing atmospheric con- ditions, there is frost in the park every month in the year. Geysers, paint pots, craters, terrace formations, obsidian cliffs, petrified trees, hot springs, sulphur deposits and similar formations, bespeak of re- cent volcanic activity, while these geysers and springs are unequaled in number and magnitude in any other section of the globe. "There are in the neighborhood of 5,000 hot springs with their deposits of lime and silica in the park, while over 100 geysers throw- ing columns of water from 50 to 250 feet exist within its confines. Gorgeous colors and elaborate ornamentations are created by the deposits of the geysers and springs, and find their greatest glory in the valleys of the Gardiner and Madison Rivers. "Attempts have been made by the Government to establish a huge game preserve within the park and large numbers of wild an- imals abound, including deer, elk, bear, big-horn sheep and the last herd of buffalo in the country. "This region was first explored in 1807. A hunter named Coulter visited it and upon his return to civilization, told such wonderful stories of the hot springs and geysers that the unbelieving borderers, in derision, called it "Coulter's Hell." Others visited it subse- quently, but their remarkable tales were generally regarded as ro- mances. The first thorough exploration was made by Prof. Hay- den's scientific party for the Government in 1871, and his report led Congress to reserve it as a public park." The lecturer continued, giving a number of his experiences with the wild animals in the park and furnished a fund of interesting data and statistics as well as humorous incidents. Sir Gilchrist became deeply interested as the lecturer told of the springs and pools on the plateaus and table-lands, and asked if bil- 112 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE liards as well as pool could be found on the table-land. The lec- turer was in doubt for a moment and then declared that Sir Gil- christ must have lost the cue. Two pathetic incidents occurred later in the evening in which two members of our party, Sirs Reel and Aeberli, played the star roles. About the midnight hour, when the happy party was slowly thinning out, and one by one the pilgrims sought their couches for the night, the startling discovery was made that Sir Aeberli was missing. A commotion at once ensued. A diligent search of the building failed to reveal the missing pilgrim. Grave fears were expressed that he might be exploring the un- known interior of a bear, for there was the customary delegation in the rear of the hotel. Some thought he might have attempted a Turkish bath within a geyser crater. Others believed that the lecturer's reference to wild game had sent him seeking after "pino- chle" or "sixty-six." Almost to a man, every member of the party accustomed to late hours heroically offered his services in forming a searching party, and headed by a delegation of the employees of the hotel, who acted as guides, we set out on our man-hunt. Never was the territory so thoroughly gone over. Never were the stately pines so thoroughly shaken in hopes of bringing a man out of a tree. The searching party worked systematically, widening out into a circle from a given point. Suddenly there was a cry of joy from the searchers to the west. Other members of the party hurried to the scene. There was Sir Aeberli, seated on the bank of Alum Creek with his feet dangling in its waters. He was serene and happy and seemed ruffled when his bath was so rudely disturbed. An explanation was at once demanded as to why he sought such an hour to bask in the waters of Alum Creek. Finally, to con- vince his rescuers that he was acting wisely and in a spirit of con- fidence, he disclosed the fact that he had learned the waters of Alum Creek bore mystic power at the midnight hour. He had been informed that in years gone by a 70-year-old man, six feet tall and weighing 200 pounds, had fallen into the pool at the stroke of 12 at night, and after swimming about for a half hour was rescued and found to have become regenerated. The old man was but 10 years of age, only 5 feet tall and weighed but 100 pounds when dragged to the shore, while future developments showed that he had only an elemen- tary knowledge of arithmetic and had a keen desire to play marbles. As Sir Aeberli did not have an opportunity to venture into the creek bodily when rescued, the only evidence of the truth of the parable A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 113 which struck the rescuing party was the fact that the bather is now wearing a No. 3 shoe. When "Bill" arrived at the hotel he was going all to pieces with laughter. His rescuers desired an explanation and he went on: "To think of a torchlight procession coming way out there in the woods at midnight and carrying me to the hotel on their shoulders in tri- umph ! And yet I was once only a poor boy ! It shows what may be accomplished by anyone if he will persevere and insist on living a different life." Another member of the party who, for a time, was strangely missing, was Sir Reel. He was soon discovered seated on the edge of the Canyon in deep study, determining how the varied colors of the sands in the bottom of the ravine looked at night. Leaving Sir Reel undisturbed and in deep thought, the rescuing party upon reaching the hotel with the Alum Creek diver, hastened to the room of Sir Reel and finding a new 12-inch lighted candle, mischieviously sliced off an inch, and lighting it, left it swimming in the socket in place of the long, fresh-lighted taper. Shortly after, Sir Reel entered the hotel and the conspirators laid low. Entering his room, he was startled to find that he had remained out long enough to permit a 12-inch candle to consume itself. Just as he was figuring how many hours he had remained away, and why his watch was so woefully incorrect, one of the arch- conspirators entered the room and asked if it was not too dark a morning for an early breakfast. Sir Reel admitted in tones of em- barrassment that he had just returned from an all-night vigil on the Canyon brink and admitted that he was too tired for breakfast and would take a little nap. After a "nap" it took considerable evidence to convince Sir Reel just what portion of the day he was living in. Meanwhile, as the strayed sheep were being gathered in, the ladies of the party had retired, and the "boys," after an additional hour or two of amusement, sought their beds. The activities of the day brought us early sleep, but not a lasting one. In less than two hours we awoke with throbbing temples. We were dazed, confused, dreamy and unrefreshed. Soon we re- alized the cause for it all. Most of the day we had heard the roar of falling water. For hours we thought this poetic, but as we lay in our beds, the distant roar, after singing us to sleep, continued in vol- ume until it woke us with heads that felt sore. The sensation is almost unaccountable. Almidst apparent pro- found silence, we heard a sullen, distant, continued roar which one hears when placing a sea shell to the ear. We became drowsy and absent-minded; there was no tenacity of mind; we could not hold (8) 114 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE a thought and carry it to conclusion ; had we tried to sit up and write our vocabulary would have been empty, our pens would have been inactive. With heads tilted up, and eyes closed, we listened to the painful muffled roar in our soundest sleep. We listened and listened were compelled to listen and again awoke at last, irri- table and harassed. It was those raging waterfalls which we hid eagerly sought dur- ing the day that had created the mischief. As we discovered the identity of the sleep-wrecker, the sensation intensified in volume. While the roar of the torrent was almost maddening, the physical pain it inflicted was exquisite. We were compelled to rise and stand by the open window and gaze out into the fascinating silence and soli- tude, and ponder over it all. CHAPTER XII. EDNESDAY morning, August 31, was one of calm beauty as it unfolded itself o'er the Grand Canyon. The massive crags around the valley lay "like sleeping kings" robed in purple gloom, while the pale, yellow light crept behind them, and the tall pines formed a belt of deeper hue around their. base. After a hasty breakfast we departed on our day's drive, resting and lunching at Norris Geyser Basin, passing the Virginia Cascade en route. We drove silently along between green and fra- grant banks, the surface of which had been cloaked by a mantle of frost during the night; but swiftly and silently, as the glorious orb which had opened and was ready to rule the day shot forth its searching and penetrating rays, Nature changed her attire and trans- formed the frost to dewdrops, with which to quench the thirst of its beautiful emerald growth, for the day. The atmosphere became more and more fragrant, with a sense of pleasure and contentment that grew with the moments. At times the roads and banks were overhung by branches that hid the path from view; then we drove past noble hills clothed with dense foliage to their tops, while on the other side were open levels, upon which the sun blazed with all its power; again, we drove through the shadow of the forest which contained at least a dozen species of admirable timber that might have been turned to manifold uses throughout the land ; in fact, there was a treasury of untold wealth in timber throughout the park, but the Government strictly pro- hibits any tree to be hewn, except where branches may interfere with UJ H (-. Ul ^ LU 3 "