MERRY CRIISAD 
 
 TO THE 
 
 GOLDEN GATE 
 
 
BANCROFT 
 LIBRARY 
 
 o 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
A 
 
 MERRY CRUSADE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 GOLDEN GATE 
 
 UNDER THE BANNERS OF 
 
 Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, 
 Knights Templar, Allegheny, Pa. 
 
 A COMPLETE STORY OF THE 
 
 TWENTY-NINTH TRIENNIAL CONCLAVE 
 
 Grand Encampment, Knights Templar, U.S.A. 
 SAN FRANCISCO, CAL, SEPTEMBER, 1904 
 
 AND 
 
 A TOUR OF TEN THOUSAND MILES THROUGH 
 THE WONDERLAND OF THE WEST 
 
 BY 
 
 EDMUND FREDERICK ERK 
 
COPYRIGHT, 1906, 
 
 BY 
 EDMUND FREDERICK ERK 
 
 The Werner Company, Akron, O. and Pittsburgh, Pa. 
 
I- 
 
 0(^0-33 
 
 E 
 
 TO 
 
 THOSE WHO HAVE 
 GUIDED AND GUARDED US ALONG LIFE'S PILGRIMAGE 
 
 2>ear jfolfcs at 1bome" 
 
 THIS VOLUME IS 
 AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED 
 
 (ix) 
 

 Bio 
 
 SIR WM. A. AEBERLI 
 SIR ROBERT J. BOVARD 
 SIR JOHN F. BENKART 
 MRS. JOHN F. BENKART 
 Miss SELMA BENKART 
 SIR G. G. BIDDLE 
 MRS. G. G. BIDDLE 
 SIR FRED W. BECKERT 
 SIR JOHN BADER 
 Miss MARY BADER 
 SIR CARL A. BAUMANN 
 SIR EDWARD BURRY 
 Miss SADIE CAMPBELL 
 SIR CHAS. S. CRAIG 
 SIR SAMUEL COOMBS 
 SIR EDMUND F. ERK 
 SIR HERMAN FLECHSIG 
 MRS. HERMAN FLECHSIG 
 SIR O. C. GREENAWALT 
 SIR WAYNE GILLAND 
 SIR JOSEPH J. GILCHRIST 
 SIR ROBERT J. GRAHAM 
 Miss G. HILLERICH 
 Miss T. HILLERICH 
 SIR C. C. HECKEL 
 BRO. JOHN HANLEY 
 MRS. JOHN HANLEY 
 SIR W. H. JACK 
 SIR HARRY KREPS 
 SIR EDWARD KUNBERGER 
 
 SIR HARRY W. LOWRIE 
 MRS. HARRY W. LOWRIE 
 MR. IVOR MORRIS LOWRIE 
 MR. M. LENINGER 
 SIR WM. G. LEE 
 MRS. WM. G. LEE 
 SIR B. SCOTT M'FARLAND 
 MR. Jos. A. NULL 
 SIR W. F. PEARS 
 SIR W. G. REEL 
 SIR OSCAR SCHULZE 
 MRS. OSCAR SCHULZE 
 Miss ADDIE SCHULZE 
 Miss LYDIA SCHULZE 
 MR. HERBERT SCHULZE 
 SIR WM. A. SEILING 
 MRS. WM. A. SEILING 
 SIR H. GLENN SAMPLE 
 BRO. A. F. SCHWERD 
 MRS. A. F. SCHWERD 
 SIR PHILLIP STEINMILLER 
 MRS. PHILLIP STEINMILLER 
 Miss MAGGIE STEINMILLER 
 SIR WALTER SHOOK 
 SIR WM. J. STAIGER 
 SIR R. C. TANNEHILL 
 MRS. R. C. TANNEHILL 
 SIR H. H. TAYLOR 
 SIR DAVID B. WATSON 
 SIR WM. S. WATSON 
 
 COMMITTEE 
 
 SIR HARRY W. LOWRIE SIR OSCAR SCHULZE 
 
 SIR HERMAN FLECHSIG 
 
 PRESS REPRESENTATIVE 
 
 SIR EDMUND F. ERK 
 
,u< 
 
 c fions 
 
 
 
 Fitting is this glad occasion for fond memories galore, 
 Of the pilgrimage to 'Frisco, on the bright Pacific shore 
 To the city of the Conclave, where fraternity held sway. 
 And to other scenes of pleasure as we journeyed on our 
 way. 
 
 Back again come recollections of the frolics on the train, 
 
 As we sped o'er hill and valley and were whirled across 
 the plain ; 
 
 And the friends we can't forget them who gave greet- 
 ing as we went, 
 
 Cheering us upon our travels o'er the wide-stretched con- 
 tinent. 
 
 There are memories inspiring of the mountains capped 
 
 with snow 
 Of Pike's Peak, whose hoary summit first reflects the 
 
 morning glow 
 Of the Yellowstone, whose geysers and rare wonders met 
 
 our eyes, 
 Of the soul-entrancing beauty of the western sapphire 
 
 skies. 
 
 \ We recall the many marvels in wild Arizona shown 
 Rocky passes, gorges, desert, and Grand Canyon's bulk 
 
 of stone ; 
 Nature spread her panorama everywhere we pleased to 
 
 roam, 
 
 And a thousand topics furnished for the journeying back 
 home. 
 
 Sweet to us are recollections of the friendships that we 
 
 made, 
 
 'And the kind, fraternal spirit that was everywhere dis- 
 played. 
 All the scenes that charmed our vision, all the friendships 
 
 and the smiles, 
 
 Are again before vis pictured with that glad ten thousand 
 miles. 
 
 EDMUND F. ERK. 
 
 v> 
 
jForcwocb 
 
 ONORED wherever Templarism is known and enjoying world- 
 wide distinction and reputation as travelers having 
 twice made pilgrimages throughout Europe there 
 was little surprise announced when public knowl- 
 edge was given that Allegheny Commandery No. 35, 
 Knights Templar, would make a trans-continental 
 jaunt to attend the Twenty-ninth Triennial Conclave, 
 Knights Templar, United States of America, which 
 was held in San Francisco in September, 1904. 
 
 An itinerary was skillfully arranged that carried the special train 
 of pilgrims over ten thousand miles and through nearly every portion 
 of "America's Wonderland" in a tour of about six weeks' duration. 
 At the suggestion of several Sir Knights who participated in the trip, 
 I decided to prepare a history of the tour, and to chronicle as many 
 of the interesting incidents that transpired as had come to my notice. 
 In justice to myself it must be confessed that this work has been 
 somewhat hastily prepared, and to this end, efforts toward literary 
 style have been sacrificed. 
 
 Here and there a sentence may need straightening out and some 
 thought might have been given better expression. My first desire 
 was to go over each chapter and add a little here, and take away a 
 little there ; polishing up and burnishing as I went along. But 
 when I looked over them my heart failed me. I remembered the 
 circumstances surrounding the writing of every one of them and I 
 shall let them alone. 
 
 It is hoped that this volume will appeal to that large class of 
 readers which takes pleasure in traveling by imagination, as well as 
 to those who have actually seen the objects described. 
 
 (xi) 
 
Xll FOREWORD 
 
 That it is not burdensome with statistics, nor too intricate in 
 prolixity of description, but breathes a spirit of good will, of hope- 
 fulness and appreciation that will induce the reader to travel with us. 
 
 That it presents to the fraters who have traveled from all points 
 of the continent, and from across the seas, a souvenir which will 
 pleasantly remind them of their pilgrimage to the land of sunshine 
 in a year most favorable and opportune, and one intended to com- 
 memorate the assembling, upon the golden shores of the vast Pacific, 
 some forty thousand Sir Knights in Triennial Conclave. 
 
 That the reader, recognizing the difficulties of adequate treat- 
 ment of so great a subject, may find in the interest it inspires an 
 indulgent excuse of any shortcomings. 
 
 Truly, we have traveled over but a mere portion of this broad 
 land of ours, but enough, quite enough, to give an idea of its won- 
 ders and vastness and to impress the noble and patriotic thought of 
 Thoreau and Cook, so essential to all of us: "Nothing can be hoped 
 for you if this bit of mould under your feet is not sweeter to you 
 than any other in the world." 
 
 In addition I have, as nearly as possible, in this volume endeav- 
 ored to set forth accurately the daily incidents of the "Big Happy 
 Family " and of its members individually. I trust it will serve as a 
 memento of that happy pilgrimage and if it serves to spend an hour 
 pleasantly in your company I shall feel fully satisfied and amply repaid. 
 As to what measure of success has crowned my efforts I leave to the 
 judgment of the reader with the confidence born of conscientious and 
 faithful effort. E. F. E. 
 
 The author is indebted to Mr. C. A. Cairns, The Chicago and Northwestern Railway Company; Mr. E. L. 
 Lomax, The Union Pacific Railroad Company; Mr. S. K. Hooper, The Denver and Rio Grande Railroad Company; 
 Mr. C. W. Sells, the Manitou and Pike's Peak Railway Company; Mr. D. C. Mac Walters, The Colorado Springs 
 and Cripple Creek District Railway Company; Mr. D. E. Burley, The Oregon Short Line Railroad Company; Mr. 
 A. M. Cleland, The Northern Pacific Railroad Company; Mr. Jas. Horsburgh, Jr., Southern Pacific Company; Mr. 
 A. D. Shepard, Mr. C. S. Aiken, Pacific Improvement Company; Mr. F. E. Shellaberger, Mr. W. H. Simpson, The 
 Atchison, Topeka and Santa F6 Railway System; Mr. Frank S. Thayer, Denver, Col., Mr. F. Jay Haynes, St. Paul, 
 Minn., Mr. Louis Roesch, San Francisco, Cal., for their courtesy in permitting the use of many of the illustrations 
 in this volume. 
 
TEable of Contents 
 
 SEVEN HUNDRED AND FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 FOND RECOLLECTIONS THE BIG HAPPY FAMILY FOREWORD. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 " All-la-board " The "Bon Voyage" The Big Happy Family 
 "Luncheon redda' in the dinin' cah" Afternoon of the First 
 Day Arrival at Chicago Toward the Upper Mississippi Inci- 
 dents by the Way 1-7 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 The Alarm Clock Across Iowa Cedar Rapids Belle Plain Tama 
 Burry's Inoffensive Bazoo The Boyer Valley Missouri Valley 
 The Missouri Bluffs Council Bluffs Omaha A Gala Day for 
 Millard Larceny on the Western Plains, Taking Things from 
 Dumb Animals Our Music and the " Terrible Quartette " Co- 
 lumbus, Nebraska Lexington Incidents by the Way 7-13 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 A Mass Meeting in the "Stag" Coach The Consumptive Accordion 
 The Verdict The Prairies of Nebraska Julesburg, Colorado 
 Overland Stage Route Sterling A Sociable Horse Ranch 
 Life Activity Among the Pilgrims Denver Mantle-pieces for 
 the Skies The Rockies Experience in " See Denver by Trolley " 
 Car All You Can Eat for Twenty-five Cents The " Free-from- 
 Care Feeling " Approaching Pike's Peak The " Terrible Quar- 
 tette" The High Seas of a Vocal List Incidents by the Way. . . 13-29 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Early Rising at Colorado Springs Observing the Sun Create the New 
 Morn Bath in the Open The Invaders and the Telegraph Opera- 
 tor Noise by the Original Pilgrimage Musicians Manitou 
 Soda, Sulphur and Iron Springs Grand Caverns Cog Wheel 
 Railroad Ascending Pike's Peak Summit Pike's Peak De- 
 scending from the Peak "Garden of the Gods" North and 
 South Cheyenne Canyons Seven Falls Pillar of Hercules 
 Sunset The Dinner that Wasn't and Why the Boys Didn't 
 
 Dance Nature Sleeps Incidents by the Way 29-46 
 
 (xiii) 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 " The Short Line " Scenic Creations Colorado Springs The Engi- 
 neer, a Big, Good-souled Fellow A Memorable Look at Pike's 
 Peak Oscar's Superb Idea A Jump off the Summit Pittsburgh 
 Tobies A Delightful, Harmless Game of Euchre Burry's 
 Sweater Selling's Feast of Melons A. Moving Panorama 
 Pueblo Canyon City Royal Gorge Grand Canyon of the 
 Arkansas Scenic Gems of Colorado Portals of Grandeur 
 Auditorium of the Rocky Mountains Leadville Tennessee 
 Pass Mountain of the Holy Cross Sunset " The Night of the 
 Party" A Spectacle That Found Its Strength in Its Serenity 
 Canyon of the Grand River Valley of the Eagle River Dream- 
 land of Stone Nature's Gigantic Specimen of Ancient Architec- 
 ture Glenwood Springs The Entertainment Voted a Glorious 
 Success The Trackless Thoroughfares of God in the Midnight 
 Skies Incidents by the Way 47~S6 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 The Silent Battle of Dawn and Darkness " Castle Gate " The Wasatch 
 Range Salt Lake City Saltair Beach Bathing in Salt Lake 
 The Sun Was Eclipsed for an Instant Not a Believer in the Com- 
 mercial in Art " Bill " Was not Desirous of Seeing Fond Attention 
 Wasted on Counterfeit Ailments The First Mormon Colony A 
 Tour of the City Temple Square Mormon Tabernacle 
 "Assembly Hall" Mormon Temple Matrimony Is a Good 
 Thing, but It Can Be and Is Overdone Preparing the Physical for 
 the Grand, Strenuous Expedition to Come Incidents by the Way 57-62 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Arriving at Monida, Montana We Stood Face to Face with the Strenu- 
 ous Life of the West The Coach and Fiery Mustangs Entering 
 an Expedition within an Expedition Farewell to Our " Special " 
 Our Coaches Were Off Like a Pack of Well Trained Hounds The 
 Race to Lakeview Deeply Touched by Nature Trophy of the 
 Chase Lakeview Inn " Davie " Tries To Identify His Compan- 
 ions The Snow Slides Targhe Pass Crossing the Snake 
 River The Scene of a Thunder Storm 60 Miles Away The Inn 
 on the Border of the Park A Day of Rare Holiday Frolic Inci- 
 dents by the Way 63-75 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Entering the Yellowstone National Park Uncle Sam's Famous Breath- 
 ing Spots Christmas Tree Park Deer, Elk and Eagle We Dis- 
 cussed Everything We Knew, as Well as Things We Were Not Cer- 
 tain About The Driver Took Up the Thread of His Life's His- 
 tory The Heart to Heart Talk among Congenial Companions 
 Cheered by Our Own Melodies There Are Two Kinds of Music 
 Riverside Station Firehole River Arriving at Fountain Hotel 
 Mistaken for a Stranded Circus Troupe Fondest Anticipations of 
 a Meal Tenement House Torture on a " near-piano " Geysers, 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS XV 
 
 Hot Springs, Paint Pots, Pools and Other Natural Curiosities in the 
 Lower Geyser Basin The Struggle between the Subterranean 
 Fires and Peaceful Vegetation Government Soldiers Bears at 
 Fountain Hotel Bear Stories and Stories You Can't Bear Tan- 
 cred Commandery No. 48 of Pittsburgh Experience in a Yellow- 
 stone Park Barber Shop Mary Commandery of Philadelphia 
 The Law and Order Committee Very Charitably Agreed Not To 
 Allow "Bobbie" and " Joe" To Sing " Bobbie's" Scheme to Aid 
 Some "Noble Charity" "As the Hours of Morning Hovered 
 Near" The Geyser Formations Compared with the " Seven Ages 
 of Man " The Day Sleeps with Open Eyes Incidents by the Way 76-88 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Resting in the Bosom of Glorious Nature Isolation from the World Leads 
 to Forgetfulness Bound for Faithful Inn Party Left Behind 
 The Tenderfoot Can Sustain Things Which the Strenuous Man of the 
 West Finds beyond His Physique Middle Geyser Basin Hell's 
 Half Acre Upper Geyser Basin "Old Faithful " A Pictur- 
 esque Hostelry Again the Unshaven Were Directed to the Boiler 
 Room More Bears Mary Commandery of Philadelphia The 
 Author's Unfamiliarity of Technical Makeup of Ladies' Gar- 
 ments Features of the Evening Incidents by -the Way 89-100 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 En route to Thumb Station and the Yellowstone Lake " He Helps Those 
 Who Help Themselves" Continental Divide Arrival at West 
 Thumb Station Paint Pots and Hot Springs Rain and Hail 
 Arrival at Lake Hotel " Freddie's " Fishing Ability Mary Com- 
 mandery of Philadelphia Features of the Evening More Bear 
 A Contrast that Offered a Text for Talk A Cool, Almost Wintry 
 Night Came with the Stars A Summing up of the Day's Events 
 " Good Night " Incidents by the Way 100-105 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 "Freddie" Didn't Get Any Fish, But He Did Get the Wish-bone The 
 Lake En route to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone Yel- 
 lowstone River Bridger Lake Anticipation of the Scenes We 
 Were to Behold Hayden Valley Arrival at the Grand Canyon 
 of the Yellowstone Upper and Lower Falls " Point Lookout " 
 "Grand View" The "Brink" Canyon Hotel Mary Com- 
 mandery of Philadelphia Features of the Evening A Discussion 
 of the Park and Its History Aeberli and Reel Play the Star Roles 
 A Midnight Bath in Alum Creek or the True Fountain of Youth 
 The Candle Burned at Both Ends The Raging Waterfalls a Sleep- 
 wrecker Incidents by the Way 105-114 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 A Morning of Calm Beauty En route to Norris Geyser Basin Nature 
 Changed Her Attire Through the Shadow of the Forest Treas- 
 ury of Untold Wealth in Timber "Twin Tree" The Unblem- 
 
XVI TABLE OP CONTENTS 
 
 ished Face of Virgin Nature The Household of Nature Norris 
 Geyser Basin Mary Commandery of Philadelphia Mammoth 
 Hot Springs " Northern Gate" " Gardner Entrance" Gibbon 
 River and Gibbon Falls Boundless Forests Dreamy Thoughts 
 of Enchanted Folk and Pleasing Legendary Fables A Secret that 
 May Be Hidden from the Philosopher and yet Be Clear to the In- 
 fant Madison River "The Stone Bruise to Our Memory" 
 Return to the Inn on the Border Food for " Rock-me-to-sleep, 
 Mother" The Customary Line-up Something to Encourage 
 the Appetite but Discourage it Immediately Thereafter The First 
 Mutiny Incidents at the Inn " Davie" Compelled to Lie Awake 
 in Lonesome Misery Midnight Experience with an Owl Inci- 
 dents by the Way 114-121 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Bound for Monida Fancy Shots Exterminating the Duck Tribe Ar- 
 rival at Lakeview Inn Exercise in Calisthenics The "Bum 
 Coach" The Race "Three Fingered Mike" "Home" 
 Again A Night Typical of Old Times Pleasant Memories of a 
 Trip through the Yellowstone National Park En route toOgden 
 Sandstorm Incidents by the Way 122-127 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 In the Light of the Newborn Day Old-Fashioned Home-Life Aboard 
 the Train The Same Mass Meeting Disturbing Elements of the 
 Deliberating Conferences Arrival at Ogden, Utah Change in 
 the Time Standard " Ogden- Lucin Cut-Off" Across the Great 
 Salt Lake Promontory Station Nevada State Line Tecoma 
 Pilot Peak Moor Station Coyotes and Prairie Dogs are 
 " Birds of a Different Feather" The Great American Desert (also 
 Known as the Humboldt Desert) " Pinched Lights " Palisade 
 " Knights of the Road " Basking on the Promenade Deck Cluro 
 Beowawe Shoshone Battle Mountain Stone House Iron 
 Point Winnemucca Humboldt "Bobbie" Voted a Nightin- 
 gale The Past, Present, and Possible Future of the Great Ameri- 
 can Desert Incidents by the Way 127-134 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Far Removed from the Chain of Cities Every Land on Earth Has Its Joy- 
 ous Awakening Wadsworth Vista Reno The Truckee- 
 Carson Canal The Reclamation Act Carson City Virginia 
 City Verdi State Line Entering California Floriston 
 Truckee Indian and Squaw Lake Tahoe Independence Lake 
 Donner Lake Summit Sierra Nevadas A Succession of Tun- 
 nels and Snowsheds Little Stations, Which Have the Flavor of 
 Mining Camps Mount Sha-sta Sacramento Valley Chico 
 Marysville Colonia El Dorado Cape Horn American 
 River Iowa Hill Auburn Irrigating the Sacramento Valley 
 Forest Fire New Castle Penryn Loomis Rocklin Rose- 
 ville Antelope Sacramento Meeting the Escort Benicia 
 Port Costa San Francisco Bay Oakland The City of Joy and 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS xvii 
 
 Festivity The Conclave City San Francisco Escort to the 
 Hotel Our Cosmopolitan Hotel and Experiences Therein The 
 City is Dressed in Holiday Attire, Her Gates are Open to Receive 
 Her Guests, Her Streets and Homes are Lighted, The Tables are 
 Spread and the Feast is Set The Great Display and Knightly 
 Hospitality of the Metropolis of the Pacific Sir Robert's Expe- 
 rience in a 'Frisco Barber Shop Shaving Prices at a Tonsorial Ex- 
 change Sir Tannehill's Pain Recompensed the Company's Pane 
 The Illumination The First Night in 'Frisco a Stirring and Mem- 
 orable One Incidents by the Way 135-149 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Special Services by California Commandery No. i and Golden Gate Com- 
 mandery No. 16, Morning, Afternoon and Evening California 
 Commanderies' Headquarters Golden Gate Park Cliff House 
 Seal Rocks Sutro Baths Sutro Heights Evening Drives and 
 Trolley Rides The Diaries and Historians Fall by the Wayside 
 Incidents by the Way 149-155 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Not a Single Flea in 'Frisco Sir Otto's Physical Culture Exercise 
 The Conclave Program for the Day Labor Day in California 
 Arrival of the Earl of Euston (Personal Representative of King Ed- 
 ward) and the Delegation Representing the Grand Priory of Eng- 
 land and Wales Directory of Commanderies and Delegations at 
 the Conclave Sight-seeing Expeditions The Presidio Walter 
 and Ivor, Gallant to a Fault The Navy Department and Govern- 
 ment Ships An Afternoon of Ceaseless Activity San Francisco 
 a Tourist's Mecca Oakland Berkeley Alameda Mt. Tamal- 
 pais Fort Mason Fisherman's Wharf The Water Front 
 The Spirit of Roving and Adventure Pervades the Scene Where 
 Will You Go? The Bay of San Francisco Point Richmond 
 San Pablo Bay Mare Islands Mount Diablo Franciscan Mis- 
 sion-builders The Mission Dolores Early Story of San Fran- 
 cisco and its History Up-to-date Telegraph Hill Nob Hill 
 Park Peak Mission Peaks State Prison on Point San Quentin 
 Angel Island Raccoon Straits Hospital Cove United States 
 Quarantine Station Sheep Island Goat Island Naval Training 
 School The Golden Gate Island of Alcatraz Entertainments 
 and Receptions Afternoon and Evening The City in Gala Attire 
 and in Possession of a Merry and Loving Gathering Chinatown 
 by Day and Night Chinese Theater and Chinese Play Chinese 
 Performance in Detail Life of a Chinese Actor Incidents by 
 the Way 155-172 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 The Day of the Parade Sir Seiling Did Not Care to Establish a Tiresome 
 Summer Fashion "Before and After Taking " Advertisement in 
 the Ranks of Allegheny Paraders Averted The Conclave Pro- 
 gram for the Day The Parade, The Formation and Various Divi- 
 sions in Detail Water-Bottle Wagons and the Shasta Shower 
 
XViii TABLE OP CONTENTS 
 
 Bath Sad Incident of the Parade in the Death of Gallant Sir 
 Knight Joseph Leath The Grand Commandery and Session of the 
 Grand Encampment Events for Afternoon and Evening Visita- 
 tion Incidents by the Way 173-179 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 "Old Sol "a Distinguished Knight Competitive Drill Bay Excursion 
 The Conclave The Conclave Program for the Day Events for 
 Afternoon and Evening Visitation Sight-seeing in the " Poor 
 Man's" Automobile, The Trolley Car Newspaper Row Dewey 
 Monument Old-time Mansions Nob Hill Telegraph Hill 
 Fairmont Hotel Hopkins Institute of Art Hall of Justice 
 Ferry Depot Waterfront Oakland Alameda Berkeley 
 University of California Alcatraz Island Yerba Buena Island 
 Sansalito Point Richmond Mount Tamalpais and Mount Dia- 
 blo Preside Government Reservation Fort Mason Laurel Hill 
 Cemetery Richmond District Golden Gate Park Govern- 
 ment Life Saving Station Sutro Gardens Strawberry Hill 
 Ashbury Heights Mount Olympus City Hall, the Hall of Rec- 
 ords, Mechanics Pavilion and Post Office Academy of Science 
 and Pioneer Hall United States Mint A City of Fair Aspect 
 San Francisco's Topography Union Ferry Depot The Cos- 
 mopolitan Air of San Francisco and the City Generally Union 
 Iron Works The City Stands on the Threshold That Looks Into 
 Greater Possibilities Pittsburgh Commandery No. i Reception 
 Receptions of the Evening Banquet in Honor of the Grand En- 
 campment of the United States The Press Club of San Francisco 
 "Open Door Policy " Incidents by the Way 180-188 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 The Thermometer Reached an Ambitious Height The Conclave Program 
 for the Day Events for Afternoon and Evening Visitation A 
 Day Filled to Overflowing with Engagements Our Last Day in 
 the Conclave City Farewell Visits Hospitality of the Enter- 
 tainers " For By Thy Fruit Shall I Know You " and " Such As I 
 Have Give I Unto Thee" The Hearty Social Welcome Bou- 
 quets Became More Numerous Than our Button-Holes Pilgrims 
 of Allegheny Commandery Did Justice to All Things California 
 Grand Commandery California Commandery No. i Golden 
 Gate Commandery No. 16 Los Angeles Commandery No. 9 Sac- 
 ramento Commandery No. 2 California Commanderies The 
 " Trestle Board " Closing of the Grand Encampment Session 
 The Next Conclave Election of Grand Officers Concert and En- 
 tertainment in the Greek Theater Brilliant Functions in the Mark 
 Hopkins Institute of Art Eve of Our Departure The Sadness 
 of Our Farewell Incidents by the Way 188-194 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Not a Nationality on the Hotel Force was Inactive Realization of Our 
 Leave-Taking California Had Been a Royal and Liberal Host 
 San Francisco Had Been Extravagant in Her Hospitality A Light 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS xix 
 
 Whose Radiance Was Unconquerable We Had Gathered on the 
 Very Edge of the Country Recollections Survive Beyond the 
 Grave A Last Look Over the Beautiful Panorama The " Alle- 
 gheny Special " En route to San Jose Burlingame San Mateo 
 Belmont Menlo Park Palo Alto Santa Clara Valley Le- 
 land Stanford, Jr., University San Jose Santa Clara The Cala- 
 veras Mountains Mount Hamilton Lick Observatory Experi- 
 ences With a Traveling Astronomer and the Opposition Observa- 
 tory Alum Rock Our Explorers Found a 20 Ton Meteor 
 Visiting the Jail (solely a voluntary act) San Joaquin Valley 
 Discoveries of the " Forty-Niners " Big Tree Groves Merced 
 River The High Sierras Yosemite Valley En route to Big 
 Tree Station Los Gatos Santa Cruz Mountains Impressive 
 Sights in the Big Tree Grove The Oldest Living Thing on Earth 
 Herman and Oscar's Superb Ideas Arrival at Santa Cruz Mon- 
 terey Bay Neptune Casino " Chicken Disrupts Colored Con- 
 gregation " Incidents by the Way. 194-206 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Capitola Natural Bridges Noel Heights and Beach Hill Twin Lakes 
 En route to Del Monte Aptos Parjaro None Had Succeeded 
 in Obtaining a Meal The Porter's Adventure Del Monte the 
 Garden of Eden of the 2oth Century Del Monte Hotel Seven- 
 teen Mile Drive The Old Padre Pacific Grove Junipero Serra 
 Mountains Monterey General Fremont Mission ofCarmel 
 Glass-bottom-Boats Diversions for Hotel Guests The Enchant- 
 ing Gardens An Informal Entertainment at the Railway Station 
 Allegheny " Special " as the Center of a Double Fire Incidents 
 by the Way 206-211 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Paso Rubles San Luis Obispo En route to Santa Barbara The Mis- 
 leading Cry of Sunday Barber Arrival at Santa Barbara The 
 Bay The Channel Santa Yuez Mountains Mountainous Is- 
 lands Caverns and Chambers The Old Presido Memorials of 
 Bygone Days Santa Barbara Mission Incidents Within the Mis- 
 sion Walls Story of the Missions Misfit in Bathing Suits 
 A Drama of a Reverse Nature Hurried to the Wrong Station 
 En route to Los Angeles Summerland Marine Oil Wells Oil 
 as the "Reel Thing" Ventura Montalvo Santa Paula 
 Sespe Camulos, " the Home of Ramona " Johnston Felt More 
 Reconciled to His Own Birthplace Saugus San Fernando Val- 
 ley Los Angeles, the Splendor and Interest It Had to Offer 
 Hotels on Wheels Emergency Hospital on Board the Train 
 Incidents by the Way 211-223 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Itinerary for the Day Echo Mountain Mount Lowe Lowe Observatory 
 The Cable Incline Alpine Railroad Alpine Tavern Pasadena 
 
XX TABLE OF CONTENTS 
 
 A Staunch Temperance Spirit Ostrich Farm Ostrich Tales 
 Return to Los Angeles Los Angeles Commandery No. 9 "Pil- 
 grim I Greet Thee" The Boundless Hospitality Moved Again 
 A Thrilling Incident Incidents by the Way 223-229 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Embarrassment at the Hands of a Confused Laundryman Santa Monica 
 Ocean Park Port Los Angeles Swatelle National Soldiers' 
 Home Plaza Del Rey Redondo Hermosa Beach Seeking 
 Moonstones by Sunlight Hollywood Manhattan Beach Long 
 Beach Brighton Beach Alhambra Wilson Peak Park Mon- 
 rovia Pomona Idyllwild San Gabriel San Diego Coro- 
 nado The Same Hospitality Reigned Supreme An Outline of 
 Attack for the Morrow A Kingdom Without a King Crowning 
 the King Incidents by the Way 229-235 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 "The King Could Do No Wrong" San Pedro The Salt Lake Route 
 The Flying Fish Avalon Santa Catalina Islands "Got Any 
 Change, Mister?" Glass Bottom Boats The Marine Gardens 
 Side Trips at Avalon Sports for the Angler The Leaping Tuna 
 An Excellent " Ready On" The Land Sailors Deserted the Deck 
 One by One Concentrated Rush on the Part of the "Stag 
 Coachers" Last Night in Loa Angeles One of the Most Glorious 
 Receptions of the Pilgrimage Incidents by the Way 235-240 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 A Few Regrets Santa Fe" " Kiteshaped " Track Santa Anita Mon- 
 rovia Azusa Pomona Ontario Rialto San Bernardino 
 Redlands Mentone Highland Colton Riverside Corona 
 Orange Fullerton La Mirada "Lucky" Baldwin Arrival at 
 Riverside Welcoming Music of the Chimes The Glenwood, 
 "California's Mission Hotel" Delightful Drives Orange 
 Groves Magnolia Avenue Nature Dressed in Her Prettiest 
 Gown The Pepper, Palm, Date-palm, Magnolia and Other Tropi- 
 cal Trees Irrigation Schemes Cactus Gardens Sherman Indian 
 School An Exceptionally Sweet Delicacy A Hymn Appropriate 
 to the Occasion " Onward Christian Soldiers" Leaving River- 
 side San Bernardino Mountains Dethronement of the Early 
 Sleepers Barstow The Mojave Desert Death Valley Inci- 
 dents by the Way 240-246 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 The Needles Colorado River Farewell to California Rainy Season in 
 California Four Conditions Have Served to Make California a 
 Land of Fame and Plenty Mineral Wealth Climate Irriga- 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS xxi 
 
 tion Railroads California's Three Zones A New Factor That 
 Will Work Wonders for California Entering Arizona The Silent 
 and Mournful Expanse The Custom of Marking Boundaries 
 Crude Method of Establishing Real Estate Possessions The Un- 
 pretentious Town of Yucca Possibilities to the Souvenir Col- 
 lectors Curious Conditions Concerning Curio Collecting Mu- 
 seum of Alleged Antiquity Murdering the Clock and the 
 Cuckoo Johnston's Ears Were Trained to Chicken Hunting Ar- 
 riving at Kingman Burry Compelled to Cage His Sweater 
 Unique Experiences at Kingman Kunnie's Havanas Studying 
 Human Nature and "Jollying" the Chef Mock Trial A Crime 
 of the Deepest Dye Hackberry Peach Springs Seligman 
 Gleed Ash Fork Phoenix Prescott The Fading of Sun- 
 light Williams En route to the Grand Canyon " Special of 
 Pittsburgh Commandery No. i " Incidents by the Way 246-257 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 The Brilliant Dawn Gave Birth to the Morn Standing on the Rim of the 
 Grand Canyon The Spectacle of Unparalleled Splendor The 
 Vibrating Cloudlets in the Canyon Below The Sun Prevailed in 
 Undisputed Authority Light and Shadow Mingled with Celestial 
 Beauty The Canyon from Various Viewpoints Nature Itself 
 God's Appointed Celebrant The Painted Desert Echo Cliffs 
 Navajo Mountains A Great and Priceless Thing is a New Inter- 
 est Going Down the Trail The Burro Has Its Disadvantages 
 "My Kingdom for a Horse," or Else I Walk The Animals En- 
 tering Upon Their Perilous Journey Self -Preservation Takes 
 Possession of the Physique The " Cork-Screw " A Peep Into 
 a Wonderland At the River Explorations of the Grand Can- 
 yon The Colorado River The Upward Journey The Canyon 
 in Sunset Darkness Falls and Night Brimmed Out of the Deep 
 " Old John " Hance " The Seven Wonders " and the Wonder of 
 Wonders Nature Sleeps The World Began to Move Again 
 El Tovar Hotel An Impressive Tableau in the " Smoker " Inci- 
 dents by the Way 257-275 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 " Bobbie's " Contract to be Awakened Early Williams, Arizona A Bridal 
 Couple En route to Albuquerque Walnut Canyon Cliff- 
 Dwellers and Cliff -Dwellings Flagstaff San Francisco Peaks 
 Humphrey's Peak Buckskin Mountains Navajo Mountains 
 White Mountains Canyon Diablo Meteorite Mountain Moki 
 Indian Reservation The Hopi Indians The Indian Dance 
 The Snake Dance Winslow The Painted Desert and Moki 
 Buttes Mogollon Mountains Holbrook Fort Apache Ada- 
 mana Petrified Forests Border Line Separating Arizona and 
 New Mexico Arizona, the Ancient but New Southwestern Sun- 
 land Entering New Mexico The Atmosphere of Old Spain 
 Gallup Serenading the Bridal Couple Advice to the Bride and 
 Groom Painful Stories, under Pressure Zuni Indian Reserva- 
 
XXii TABLE OP CONTENTS 
 
 tion Navajo Indian Reservation Fort Wingate Thoreau 
 Pueblo Bonito Chaves Bluewater Tintero Grant Zuni 
 Mountains San Rafael McCarty's Acomita Cubero San 
 Mateo Mountains Pueblo Indians Acoma, Laguna and Isleta 
 Pueblos Mesa Encantada Life Among the Indians Albuquer- 
 que Sir David Trading with the Indians Sir Kreps' Amazing 
 Knowledge of the Indian Tongue Incidents by the Way 275-289 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 Rio Grande del Norte and Galisteo Rivers Almeda Bernalillo 
 Algodores Elota Thornton The Santa Domingo or Queres 
 Tribe Corn Day Lamy Santa F Glorieta Pass Star- 
 vation Peak Las Vegas Gallinas River The Town is Not 
 Painted Red, but Well-read Raton Watrous Mora Canyon 
 Fort Union Wagon Mound Springer Raton Mountains 
 New Mexico, the Land in the Sky Rapid Strides of American 
 Progress New Mexico, Its History and Future Dick Wooten's 
 Toll-House Entering Colorado Trinidad A Bare Tale 
 Prairie Dogs La Junta Las Animas Kit Carson Arapahoes, 
 Kiowas and Cheyennes Tribes Big Timbers Fort Williams 
 The Arkansas Valley Rocky Ford Lamar Holly Kansas 
 State Line Fort Amity Syracuse, Kansas Garden City 
 Dodge City Larned Pawnee Rock Great Bend Fort Za- 
 rah The Santa F6 Trail Comanches and Pawnees Wagon 
 Train Kansas' Indian Lore Hutchinson Burrton New- 
 ton Florence Strong City Emporia Osage City To- 
 peka The Free-State Constitution, Pro-Slavery Constitution, The 
 Free-Soilers " Old John Brown " Kansas, the Leading State in 
 the Corn Belt Studying Human Nature at Close Range, Types 
 Differ in States Lawrence St. Joseph, Mo. Atchison Leav- 
 enworth Kansas City St. Joseph Across the Tranquil Fields 
 We Swept Incidents by the Way 289-300 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 Arriving at Kansas City Tour of the City Johnston Completely Smitten 
 by a Tired Baby Elephant The Missouri River Jefferson City 
 Osage River The Wyandotte Indians Chillicothe Florida 
 Mississippi River lola Public Entertainments on a Dry Goods 
 Box Game of Billiards Open Debate in the " Wheat Pit " and the 
 Discussion on Corn Memorable Demonstration at the Station En 
 route to St. Louis Presentation Speeches March Upon the Com- 
 missary Car Incidents by the Way 300-306 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 Arriving at St. Louis Meeting a Delegation From Home The Louisiana 
 Purchase Exposition, The World's Fair Departure From St. 
 Louis Sir Oscar's Race to the Station Homeward Bound In- 
 cidents by the Way 306-31 1 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS xx iii 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 Approaching the End Experiences of the Past Six Weeks "Davie" 
 Traveling in State, in a Private Car Each Car Had Its Function 
 as a Stage Upon Which We Enacted Our Life on the Rail The 
 Circus Ring or Commissary Car The Burlesque Stage or " Stag " 
 Coach The "Haven of Opera" or Third Coach The "Legiti- 
 mate Performers " or Fourth Coach We Were Going Home 
 Crossing the State Line Union Station, Pittsburgh Allegheny, 
 the Good Old Home Folks Nature's Best Sentiment, Home In- 
 cidents by the Way 311-314 
 
 CONCLUSION 315 
 
 IN MEMORI AM 320 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 ATURDAY, August 20, 1904, will long be cherished in the 
 memories of members of Allegheny Commandery No. 35, 
 Knights Templar and their guests on that occasion, as the be- 
 ginning of a most delightful pilgrimage to California and re- 
 turn. Promptly at eight o'clock in the morning the entire party was 
 assembled at the train, which was especially chartered from the Pitts- 
 burgh, Ft. Wayne & Chicago railway for the entire tour. It con- 
 sisted of three of the most magnificent Pullman cars in the com- 
 pany's service, together with a seventy-foot commissary car, fitted 
 and supplied for the occasion. 
 
 Although rain threatened early in the morning, a united plea 
 to "Jupiter Pluvius" to withhold his orders for an hour or two at 
 least, was answered. After many struggles, the effulgent rays of 
 ''Old Sol" came peeping through the clouds from above dear old 
 Allegheny's murky atmosphere. 
 
 Our farewells to those whom we were to leave behind were spoken 
 in the glad sunshine, and their expressed hopes for a pleasant jour- 
 ney lent a significant brightness in contrast to the gloom of the 
 early morning. With handshaking and good wishes of several hun- 
 dred friends, the leave-taking scene at the station was an animated 
 one. There was but one touch of pathos the sorrow of Sir Knight 
 brothers unable to accompany us on the pilgrimage. While lend- 
 ing cheer with kindly words, their anguish was plainly discernible 
 on their faces. Bound by business necessities, or detained by the 
 call of duty, they were compelled to remain behind, though their 
 hearts yearned for the companionship, joys, and rich pleasures which 
 the journey had in store, and the boundless interest and fellowship 
 which the coming Conclave at the "Golden Gate" was sure to bring 
 forth. 
 
 Those countenances which looked up to us in the parting "au 
 revoir" were inscribed with expressions that bespoke more eloquently 
 than tongue could tell the sincere sentiment that prevailed in the 
 innermost recesses of the heart and how those dear hearts did ache ! 
 
 Our party numbered between sixty and seventy, citizens promi- 
 nent in the affairs of the community, accompanied by their ladies 
 
who were to act as guardians and protectors to their lords and 
 masters. The event was the culmination of many busy weeks of 
 preparation and anticipation. The scene presented at the station 
 that morning was a privilege to behold. Every condition controlled 
 by God and man seemed to enter into harmony in making the initial 
 step of this trans-continental tour an auspicious inauguration, and 
 the transfiguration of what promised to be a gloomy and uninvit- 
 ing day into one of sunshine and gladness, gave evidence of the 
 sanction of the gods of the elements in setting forth their choicest 
 raiment under which we might receive the "bon voyage" of our 
 friends and brother Sir Knights on our trip of 10,000 miles through 
 the wonderland of the west, where the creations ot the Almighty 
 can be realized in the full beauty of nature's clothes unenshrouded 
 and unblemished by the hand of man under pretext of "public im- 
 provement." 
 
 Thiough the bustle and activities of leave-taking the tourists 
 were looking forward to the new and magnificent scenes which they 
 were to behold, new acquaintances to be made, and the pleasure 
 of being the guests of San Francisco, and attending that national 
 reunion, the Twenty-ninth Triennial Conclave, Grand Encampment, 
 Knights Templar of the United States of America. This event was 
 set for September 3 to September 9, inclusive. 
 
 While often California is chosen as the land to which invalids 
 are sent, none of our gallant and sturdy band were in search of 
 health, as the most casual observer could note, after gazing upon 
 the smiling and wholesome faces of the tourists. 
 
 It was indeed, a party qualified to participate in a journey replete 
 with good cheer, animated with the spirit of brotherly and sisterly 
 affection, an exemplification of genuine Masonic fraternity in all 
 the term implies 'the fraternity of an order that in fact, as well as 
 in name, preserves the dignity of manhood, age after age, no matter 
 to what portion of the globe circumstances may carry its members. 
 
 Suddenly in the height of the babel of exchanging farewells, 
 given and taken for perhaps the hundredth time, the cold, unsympa- 
 thetic peal of the engine bell rang out in supreme authority above 
 the blending voices. With each succeeding clang the order "All-la- 
 board," followed. A scatter of feet, a final "bon voyage," perhaps a 
 kiss or two, a swish of skirts, and with a flutter of snowy handker- 
 chiefs from car platforms and windows, which found equal exchange 
 from those aground, the proud, majestic train glided gracefully out 
 of the station, drawing from behind a prolonged cheer which distance 
 seemed to swell into greater volume, aided by the resounding echoes 
 from the hillsides. 
 
 Several of the bravest "must-stay-at-homes" could not resist the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 3 
 
 opportunity, and had climbed aboard before the final signal had been 
 given, and accompanied us for a few hundred miles. In far-off Ohio 
 towns they alighted and turned their faces homeward, after having 
 enjoyed the cordial hospitalities of the wayfarers enroute. Upon 
 leaving the train at such distant points as they dared to roam, they 
 shouted their adieus after the parting train with an enthusiasm that 
 rent the air and blended into echoes until no more distinct, though 
 their eyes were set upon the fast disappearing' "special" until it 
 gradually faded into a mere nothingness into the horizon. 
 
 When well out on the way the early threat of rain was fulfilled. 
 It poured but without the least tendency to dampen the ardor of 
 our enthusiasm. It is safe to say that but few members of the party 
 were cognizant of the fact that a storm was raging and little would 
 they have cared. Previous to this hour all had been assigned to 
 their respective quarters, which to each was to be a "home" for six 
 weeks or more. The sign "welcome" had been placed above every 
 door, and it was not the only sign that implied hospitality and good- 
 fellowship. 
 
 We had, indeed, become one big, happy family, all restrictions 
 and formalities removed. The "stag" coach, or bachelor's apart- 
 ments, had at once become the headquarters for fun and frolic, al- 
 though the other coaches also resounded with merriment. 
 
 "Faithful" Johnstone, a big, whole-souled colored man, was in 
 charge of the commissary car, and soon fell in with the spirit of the 
 occasion. His color did not even lend a shadow, and he was "white" 
 in the most liberal sense of the expression. Early in the day he 
 delivered his ultimatum : "Boo-oys jes' he'p you'selves ! Yaa-s sah ! 
 Ha ! Ha ! Ha um !" and to the end he evinced a happy and ac- 
 commodating spirit. 
 
 The larders were abundantly stocked with the best the market 
 afforded, including the best brands of cigars, most of which were 
 natives of the banks of the Rhine, and donated by one of our worthy 
 Sir Knights, who established an enviable reputation for smoothing 
 out the rough places, and who, at all times, displayed an invincible 
 spirit to further the interests of his fellowmen. It is perhaps need- 
 less to add that the good things so liberally provided were partaken 
 of as the trip progressed, much to the appreciation of the outer man 
 and the satisfaction and contentment of the inner. 
 
 "Luncheon redda' in the dinin' cah P was an oft-repeated an- 
 nouncement, although it seemed a superabundance to partake of this 
 invitation, considering the enticing offerings of the commissary car, 
 which were lavishly and gratuitously offered. Time and again, 
 throughout that long pilgrimage, the meals served in that self-same 
 commissary car were among the best relished in the memory of 
 
4 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 those fortunate enough to participate, even though the tops of trunks 
 were made to serve as tables, and liquids had to be passed around 
 with the rare skill of an accomplished equilibrist. 
 
 The afternoon of the first day established a precedent for joviality 
 that was maintained throughout the trip. Utter freedom from all 
 care, and the glad anticipation of further pleasures to come, ruled 
 supreme. Time passed rapidly too rapidly and with the approach 
 of placid evening with its lengthening shadows, and the slow and 
 gradual blotting out of the rural landscapes, spinning rapidly by, 
 the merry travelers found no abatement in their merriment. If pos- 
 sible, we were drawn more closely together in the bonds of human 
 sympathy and fraternal brotherhood and sisterhood as the mantle 
 of darkness was more tightly gathered about us, and the sun had gone 
 to its rest beyond the wide reaches of the prairie land. We had 
 seen the sun wink itself to sleep behind the clouds in the west, 
 and as we were bound in that direction and at the highest possible 
 speed we were assured that we would again catch up with "Old 
 Sol" at dawn at the latest. 
 
 Reaching Chicago at ten o'clock that night, our train was shifted 
 over to the tracks of the Chicago & Northwestern railroad and en- 
 tered the depot of that system. 
 
 It was a happy party that rolled into the "Windy City." Few 
 cared to venture from the station, nearly all being well acquainted 
 with Chicago, having visited the metropolis of the inland seas pre- 
 viously, and besides, the time to stay was limited. All left the 
 train for a stroll on the platforms and finally visited the station- 
 proper. Here scores of Sir Knights were met, some of whom claimed 
 Chicago as their home, while others were making connections with 
 this system, with the same mission and purpose in view which we 
 cherished the pleasure of attending the Conclave at San Francisco. 
 
 While these brother Sir Knights were strangers to our party, 
 formal introduction was not even considered, and in a moment we 
 were acquainted, one with the other, and the greetings exchanged, 
 and the goodfellowship that prevailed for those few moments will 
 ne'er be forgotten. Here, there and everywhere about the spacious 
 corridors groups were gathered, chatting and laughing. Jests were ex- 
 changed, stories told, and acquaintanceships cemented into friendship, 
 with mutual satisfaction. The ladies entered into the spirit of the 
 occasion with zest and joined with the wives and daughters of the 
 brother Sir Knights who but a moment before had been unknown 
 to us. 
 
 To the ear it sounded as if a merry band of pickaninnies were 
 taking recess; the spirited conversation (and it was far above the 
 evenness of whisperings) conveyed the impression that bold revela- 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 5 
 
 tions were being made by the ladies, which at home might have 
 been considered bosom secrets. 
 
 Thus was expression given to the spirit which dominated the 
 hearts of those but briefly acquainted, which, with one accord, sym- 
 bolized all that is good, best and most wholesome in the sisterhood 
 and brotherhood of mankind, the cornerstone of all fraternalism, 
 and the highest pinnacle of civilization. 
 
 Here it was we met Mr. C. A. Cairns, General Passenger Agent, 
 Mr. S. A. Hutchison, Manager Tourist Department, Mr. R. B. Wil- 
 son, Ticket Agent, and J. O. Clifford of the Chicago & Northwestern 
 system, jovial, genial, affable comrades. They manifested a special 
 interest in the welfare of our party, and the meeting with them was of 
 the most pleasant and cordial nature, ending with an affectionate em- 
 brace when they were forced to say "Good-bye." We were intro- 
 duced to Mr. V. Z. Bayard, Tourist Agent for the company, who, 
 Mr. Cairns said, would act as guardian for our party as far as Salt 
 Lake City. He assured us that Mr. Bayard would be friendly dis- 
 posed, and that before we were far out of Chicago we would be 
 calling him "Vic." 
 
 Indeed, "Vic" showed his cordiality at first sight, and was re- 
 peatedly thereafter voted "the right man in the right place." This 
 gentleman was familiar with every mile-post along the many miles 
 of road we traveled with him, and was acquainted with every in- 
 cident connected with the territory. In many instances he went 
 beyond the mere discharge of his duty to see that we received the 
 best of care. Need it be said that we all soon appreciated and 
 valued his presence and branded him a real good fellow, and a 
 hustler. 
 
 Eleven o'clock, the hour for our departure, was at hand. At 
 the doors of the station cabs with belated arrivals were whirling up 
 to the curb unloading their charges, the carriage wheels and the 
 horses' hoof-beats clattering musically along the paved streets. 
 Richly attired ladies and children, escorted by Sir Knights, descend- 
 ed and hurried into the station. All was now a bee-hive of anima- 
 tion and confusion ; tickets were hastily bought and baggage checked ; 
 a call on the Information Bureau inquiring for schedules ; Sir Knights 
 who had not the important task of hunting their wives out of the 
 crowds were busily engaged in hand-shaking and offering a parting 
 farewell and God-speed to members of our party and to one another. 
 
 The gong sounded. All passed into the enclosure where several 
 long trains were in waiting, notably the cheerful inviting "Allegheny 
 Special.' 5 The powerful nervous engine ahead was impatiently puff- 
 ing, anxious to begin its relay contest with the prairie winds. 
 
 "All-la-board!" shouted Mr. J. A. Woods, the genial Pull- 
 
6 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 man conductor, smilingly. He called again and again, before he 
 had his big family assembled under roof. The luxurious train was 
 most inviting so cheerful, so full of light and color. It was to serve 
 as a home on wheels for many days en route to "sunland." 
 
 As the train pulled out of the station many of the "older folks" 
 withdrew into their "homes" and retired for the night, while some 
 of the Sir Knights stole a march as soon as their "better-halves" 
 were fast asleep and joined the occupants of the "stag" coach in 
 making a concerted march upon the commissary car. Here we 
 gathered together for the quiet communion of kindred souls. 
 
 The "special" quietly drew out of the city limits and was soon 
 whirling away toward the Upper Mississippi and the broad State 
 of Iowa, carrying as happy a party of pilgrims as ever left Allegheny 
 City for the west. A glimpse from the windows, or an unobstructed 
 view from the side doors of the commissary car, presented a grand 
 kaleidoscopic, retrospective view of the illuminated metropolis of 
 Chicago, like a moving panorama, fast disappearing from our sight. 
 
 The route was now due west in a direct line through a chain 
 of beautiful towns to Geneva, 35 miles out of Chicago, and the west- 
 ern boundary line of its suburban district. Then across northern 
 Illinois to the Mississippi River. The first stop was made at DeKalb, 
 58 miles west of Chicago. The train scarcely came to a stop until 
 we again flew onward amid total darkness, broken only by the 
 occasional glare from the fire-box of the engine reflecting its rays 
 upon the glittering tracks on each side. 
 
 The engineer calls for more steam. The scrape, scrape, scrape 
 of the fireman's shovel resounds through the stilly night. Each 
 shovel of coal as it was hurled into the bowels of the furnace was 
 clearly heard in the commissary car. We raced onward faster, and 
 still faster through the mantle of darkness and in a short time Dixon 
 was reached, 98 miles west of Chicago. The town is near Rock 
 River, in a region somewhat famous in Indian history. Scores of 
 Indian mounds still remain and now serve as the sole monuments 
 to commemorate the red man. Yes, it was now two o'clock, Sun- 
 day morning, rather late for sight-seeing, and the greater portion of 
 the party were asleep and dreaming of further pleasures to be real- 
 ized. Johnstone rubbed his eyes, rested his huge and weary frame 
 against the substantial refrigerator and remained awake no longer. 
 
 Within another brief hour we crossed the Mississippi River be- 
 tween Fulton, Illinois, and Clinton, Iowa, but owing to the late, 
 or more accurately, the early hour, this event was not witnessed 
 by many. The few who were "up and doing" began to rub their 
 e>es and after remarking that the events of the day had not fatigued 
 them in the least, voluntarily agreed to join their comrades in 
 
C. & N-ff. Ry. 
 
 THE FOX RIVER AT GENEVA. 
 
 The view up and down Fox River Valley, just before entering Geneva, is one in which rolling uplands, fertile and highly cultivated, form the 
 background, while, nearer at hand, the city nestles among the trees in quiet contrast to the sparkling waters of the river. 
 
 PANORAMIC VIEW 
 OF DIXON. 
 
 ROCK RIVER NEAR STERLING. 
 
 The Pictureique C. & N-ff. Rf. 
 
 The valley of the Rock River was the scene of many stirring events in the early days of territorial history ; the 
 beautiful region hereabouts was one of the favorite hunting grounds of the Indians, and what are supposed to be Indian 
 mounds still exist near Sterling. Many events in the Black Hawk war transpired in this region. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 7 
 
 sweet slumbers over the Chicago & Northwestern to "dreamland." 
 Silently they crept into their respective couches and all was good- 
 night. 
 
 Henceforth no member of the jolly party was conscious of what 
 transpired during the ensuing few hours, for all were enjoying a 
 well-earned and deserving rest, as the God of providence carried 
 them onward. Thus the chapter of events of the first day was re- 
 corded, full of good cheer and sweet reminiscences, now passed 
 and gone, but ever in memory never to be forgotten. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 T the break of dawn, as though some celestial fairy had passed 
 her wand over our brows, we awoke from sweet repose, and 
 at once became aware, and forcibly impressed with the fact, 
 that there was an "Alarm Clock" aboard. 
 
 This masterpiece of creation, or intricacy of musical mechanism, 
 was in the human form of Sir Joseph J. Gilchrist, the "Honorable," 
 from the "State of Allegheny " marching up and down the aisle of 
 the "stag" coach shouting at the top of his voice: "Get up, boys! 
 Get up and see the sun rise!" Many of the boys thrust their heads 
 between the curtains, which lent privacy to their berths, to ascer- 
 tain what particular specie of creature had been encountered on the 
 western plains. 
 
 They beheld "Joe," wearing that ever-present and never-failing 
 congenial smile, so cheerful and inviting that any incentive toward 
 censure is driven away, no matter how serious the offense may be. 
 "Hurry, hurry, hurry, boys, and see the sun rise!" he again com- 
 mands. "Ah, we don't want to see any sun rise !" was the verdict 
 in chorus. This announcement, followed by a little brotherly ad- 
 vice, appeared to have the desired effect and "Joe" humbly retired 
 to his seat. Back go all heads behind the folds of each respective 
 curtain, with every assurance that quietude would again prevail. 
 
 The silence, however, was not destined to be long-lived, for in a 
 moment "Joe" made his second appearance, this time armed with 
 every instrument of torture in the catalogue of unmusical and hid- 
 eous things. "If they won't get up, I'll make them !" he insisted. The 
 racket was awful. Those not awakened at the first call surely be- 
 lieved themselves victims of an Indian raid, accompanied by all the 
 horrors of the war dance. "Joe" succeeded brilliantly in forcing 
 an audience to the rise of the sun, and upon each subsequent morn- 
 
8 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 ing during the entire tour the "Alarm Clock" was in working order 
 and all viewed the sun rise every day, thanks to "Joe's" undeniable 
 request. 
 
 With such a startling initiative all were early risers that Sabbath 
 morning. Exchanged inquiries as to individual conditions brought 
 the uniform response: "Bully, never felt better." However, an 
 epidemic of hunger prevailed in its keenest ravage, and relief was 
 at once offered by a few raps on the door of the commissary car. 
 This served to awaken Johnstone, who, ever ready, catered to the 
 inner feelings of those dependent upon him. 
 
 With contentment within, all returned to the vestibule car and 
 took an unprejudiced look at one another. Never did there ap- 
 pear to be more gladness in the air. The spirit of charity and com- 
 panionship that was ushered in with the morning was boundless. 
 
 The rain of the day before made the air cool and refreshing, as 
 well as allaying the dust. Traveling was most delightful such 
 brightness in the sun such beauteous prairie country. We passed 
 numerous towns and villages and found interest in the moving about 
 of the inhabitants. Cedar Rapids was reached shortly before six 
 o'clock. This typical Iowa city is beautifully situated on the Cedar 
 River. Its buildings, streets and cleanliness pay high tribute to the 
 character of the people who inhabit it. The city gives evidence of 
 a thriving industrial center, as well as a community of refinement 
 and culture. 
 
 Journeying from Cedar Rapids we passed Belle Plain and Tama. 
 At Tama we beheld Indians for the first time on our pilgrimage and 
 immediately cameras were focused upon them. The red men se- 
 riously objected at first, not because they had not been educated to 
 the harmless effects of this weapon, but because they demanded 
 recompense before posing. 
 
 Sir Reese would not be convinced that the Indians were other 
 than cheap imitations and attempted to strengthen his position in 
 the matter by citing as a comparison the crimson complexion as 
 portrayed by the Allegheny City street salesmen of cigar stores. He 
 was finally convinced of his error b}' Sir Robert making the point 
 that the Tama Indians were not well read men. 
 
 This town boasts of an Indian reservation where a remnant of 
 the Sacs and Foxes still find a home. The community derives its 
 name from a once famous Sac chief, Ta-E-Maih. 
 
 At this hour breakfast was enjoyed in the dining car, after 
 which we were reminded that it was Sunday and that the day should 
 be fittingly observed. Suggestions were immediately made that ser- 
 vices be held, but the fact at once became apparent that none had 
 the foresight to bring with them that which is most important and 
 essential for such ceremony. 
 
THE .IOWA RIVER NEAR TAMA 
 
 ON THE INDIAN RESERVATION AT TAMA 
 
 The Picturesque C. & N-W. Ry. 
 
 BRIDGE AT CLINTON. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 9 
 
 "Oh !" cried one of the Sir Knights with boundless joy, "Eureka ! 
 I have found it! McFarland has brought a bible with him!" The 
 announcement of this discovery brought the unanimous expression 
 that Sir McFarland should officiate. 
 
 Sir McFarland, being the youngest Sir Knight in the party, had 
 previously been dubbed "The Kid of York." He has an established 
 reputation for overburdened generosity and is always willing to 
 respond to the call of duty for the good of any cause. However, 
 notwithstanding his infallible willingness, there was a decided hitch 
 in the announced program. Several of the older heads were in con- 
 sultation. The would-be communicants became anxious. Evidently 
 a disagreement existed as to whether or not McFarland should of- 
 ficiate. Suddenly the diplomats separated and one of the Sir Knights 
 arose and made the following startling statement: "I am informed 
 that our worthy Sir Knight has not only brought a bible with him 
 but a gun as well, consequently I deem it extremely unwise for this 
 assemblage to consent in having him administer the gospel. Just 
 picture the 'Kid,' " he continued, with a smile, "with a bible in one 
 hand and a gun in his hip pocket. It is dangerous," he exclaimed 
 dramatically, "such preparation and equipment might have been 
 necessary in these parts in the days of 'Kit Carson,' but times 
 and things have changed; and furthermore, this is not the time and 
 place." 
 
 The general sentiment seemed to be that the pilgrims did not 
 take kindly towards having religion administered with the aid of a 
 revolver. McFarland tried to explain that the gun referred to was 
 nothing but an innocent and inoffensive bazoo one of the tin horns 
 which Sir Edward J. Burry had brought with him. However, there 
 was no service that day, and it is said that the good-natured "Kid" 
 did not use the bible during the entire trip, unless it was in the 
 seclusion of his private sanctum sanctorum. 
 
 Luncheon was served about the time we reached Dennison, 424 
 miles west of Chicago and about 68 miles east of Omaha. The train 
 entered the Boyer Valley along which lays the route into the Mis- 
 souri Valley. Here the broad lowlands of the Missouri come into 
 sight on the right, and the road skirts the Missouri bluffs on the 
 left for 20 miles, until Council Bluffs is reached. At this point 
 we crossed the river and entered Omaha at 3 :45 o'clock in the 
 afternoon, entering the city over a great steel bridge which spans 
 the river between the two cities and the two states. 
 
 Council Bluffs itself has a population of 26,000, while within a 
 radius of six miles around the beautiful Union Station in Omaha 
 is an estimated population of 165,000. Council Bluffs is the older 
 of the two cities, Omaha (named after the Omaha Indians) da- 
 
10 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 ting her history as a town from 1854, when, upon passage of the 
 Kansas-Nebraska bill, the latter state was thrown open for settle- 
 ment. 
 
 Omaha is the metropolis of this section of the West and is a 
 jobbing and distributing point of much importance and is rapidly 
 growing as a manufacturing center. The city abounds in all the 
 luxuries and conveniences of a modern city. 
 
 Our party remained in Omaha 35 minutes until connections were 
 made with the Union Pacific Railroad. During this brief stay we 
 were most hospitably entertained by the Sir Knights and citizens 
 of that city, among whom were such honorable gentlemen as Mr. E. 
 L. Lomax, General Passenger Agent Union Pacific Railroad Com- 
 pany, Mr. G. B. Bondesson and friends and Mr. L. Beindorff, who, 
 for those brief moments, entertained us in the manner for which 
 this "Magic City" is noted. 
 
 The following morning the "Omaha Bee" published a column 
 article regarding our arrival. A reproduction, in part, follows: 
 
 PITTSBHRG 'PARTY GOES WEST 
 
 Knigfcts Templar and Families Pass 
 Through to San Francisco. 
 
 RELISH THE PURE AIR OF NEBRASKA 
 
 Easterners Are Smitten vritli Hospi- 
 tality of West and Cannot Get 
 Too. Much of its FresU 
 
 0BO'KC.< 
 
 The liveliest delegation of Knight? Tfem- 
 Ular to pass .through Omaha, for San 
 Francisco to attend their conclave since 
 the procession started . was the Allegheny 
 commandery, No. 36. It came In over ti*e 
 Northwestern from Chicago at 3:40 yester- 
 day afternoon And left at 4:15 for Denver 
 over the Union Pacific. 
 
 The party numbered about eighty men 
 and women, and every man fend yvomap 
 was loaded down with literature and cards 
 showing what, a particular good brand of 
 Knights Templar iHttsburg ^urns out, tor 
 they were all from the Smoky City. Every 
 person who visited their special train was 
 welcomed with a hospitality equal to that 
 of the west To -the Omaha visitors at tne 
 station, the 'tourists created considerable 
 amusement as they alighted from the 
 train. Each and every one of them drew 
 a .deep, long breath and Jtept on j Indatlnsr 
 their lungs with ptaro Nebraska air. ',' 
 
 th '.rain were 
 
CROSSING THE 
 "HAWKEYE" STATE 
 
 turtiquc C. & N-lf. /. 
 
 i" CROSSING THE GREAT PRAIRIES OF IOWA. 
 
 THE MISSOURI RIVER VALLEY. 
 
 C. Gf N-lf. Rv. 
 
 That portion of the trip which extends from Missouri Valley to Council Bluffs skirts the eastern bluffs of the 
 Missouri through one of the greatest corn-producing regions in existence. The fertile loam of the Missouri River 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 11 
 
 As we left Omaha over the admirably equipped line of the Union 
 Pacific railroad, we at once entered the valley of the Platte and 
 followed that broad and shallow stream to its forks at North Platte. 
 We had traveled but a short distance when our train came to a 
 standstill at Millard, 20 miles out of Omaha. We were informed 
 that there was a freight wreck ahead and there were probabilities 
 of a delay of several hours. The "probabilities" proved true to the 
 letter and we remained in that village three hours. 
 
 The pilgrims soon learned to adapt themselves to the conditions, 
 and life became a systematic search for diversity. Time did not hang 
 heavy on our hands by any manner of means. Most of the party 
 left the train and were soon amused in various pastimes, a few of 
 which might be enumerated as follows: 
 
 Game of baseball non-professional rules several lady partici- 
 pants. This ended dramatically. Sir William A. Seiling hit the ball 
 for what looked like a home run. It landed on the bell of the loco- 
 motive and the game was called many rushing for the train. 
 
 Foot-race down the railroad track and a demonstration in equilib- 
 rium ladies only. The deftness in balancing, as shown from the 
 lofty height of a steel rail was thrilling. 
 
 Concert by the brass band Sir Oscar Schulze director. Oscar 
 rolled up his sleeves and ordered the band to play every tune on record 
 (both gold-moulded and Edison) ; also some tunes that have not as 
 yet been placed on record. 
 
 Dancing to the music of the band. Set of two Sir Oscar and 
 Sir Harry W. no callers. Charmed by the sweet strains, and in- 
 different as to time or place, and particularly innocent of the fact 
 that there was a spectator or two, they essayed a Virginia reel on 
 the Nebraska green sward. There was more real reel about this 
 tripping of the light fantastic than the spectators had ever previous- 
 ly seen. The dance lasted but a few moments, or until a can of 
 lemonade perched on a soap box had been turned over. Although 
 the natives informed us that things as sour as lemonade turn, in that 
 climate, from slighter provocation, it was nevertheless conceded 
 that one of the dancers upset the lemonade. 
 
 Probably one of the most impressive entertainments indulged in 
 at Millard was the presentation of a drama, depicting larceny on the 
 western plains, entitled "Taking Things from Dumb Animals," in 
 which Sir Robert J. Bovard essayed the star role, assisted by a Jersey 
 cow. The cow in question was peacefully browsing on the meadow 
 land when the drama opened. Sir "Bobby" and the cow exchanged 
 glances at the same moment, and while the latter gave no expression 
 of affection, "Bobby" at once acknowledged a thirst for milk. With- 
 out any formal introduction "Bobby" made his advances and was 
 
12 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 soon milking the cow. Several followed, while the cow continued to 
 chew her cud in silence. Finally, when she found herself the con- 
 centrated object of too general attention, she hurried away, swing- 
 ing her tail in triumph. The owner of that cow still remains among 
 the unidentified, but it is reasonable to suppose that he and the 
 cow had words that night over the quality and quantity of milk at 
 hand. 
 
 For Millard and its 300 inhabitants it was a gala day of strange 
 experiences and unrestricted joy that did not even find a parallel on 
 the annual circus day. 
 
 Shortly after seven o'clock the wreckage had been cleared away 
 and we started. We stopped again a hundred yards away to take 
 aboard a few ladies who were threatened with isolation on the plains, 
 having strayed off out of hearing of the call "all aboard!" 
 
 Once on the way the engineer began clipping off the miles at 
 a rapid rate in an endeavor to regain every possible moment before 
 reaching Denver on the morrow. Many methods were employed to 
 keep the party amused. Our music consisted of the well-mixed 
 strains of a grind-organ and a bag-pipe which were a little asthmatic, 
 and inclined to catch their breath where they ought to come out 
 strong; a clarinet and a bass drum, which were a little unreliable 
 on the high notes and rather melancholy on the low; a disreputable 
 accordion that had a leak somewhere and breathed louder than it 
 squawked ; Burry's bazoo jew's-harp, etc., through which the "Ter 
 rible quartette sang(?) the singing was voted worse than the in- 
 strumental renditions, although we all enjoyed it hugely, and suffered 
 it gladly. 
 
 About the time the music was losing its charm "Vic" hurriedly 
 requested us to be on the lookout and he would show us where we 
 would eventually arrive. By a peculiar coincidence the next thing 
 that presented itself was a graveyard. "Vic," however, was innocent 
 of perpetrating a pun on us. He referred to the town of Columbus, 
 Nebraska, which we reached a few minutes later. This was the 
 place which in the '60's George Francis Train declared to be the 
 geographical center of the United States, and for that reason advo- 
 cated the removal of the National Capital to the Valley of the Platte. 
 Here our train entered upon a stretch of track, which, for 40 or 
 more miles in length, is as straight as it is possible for man to build. 
 The telegraph poles on both sides (looking backward), presented 
 the appearance of two solid walls of timber surmounted by endless 
 lines of wire. The railroad tracks between narrowed into a shin- 
 ing streak in the background. 
 
 The entire state of Nebraska proved to be a marvelously rich 
 farming country. Hundreds of fields of corn and wheat, and pass- 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 13 
 
 ture dotted with fat cattle, were viewed. Up to 1866 buffalo were 
 numerous in this section and all of the region lends the basis of 
 thrilling tales of Indian days. As late as 1897 the Indians captured 
 and burned a train of cars near Lexington. All the savagery has 
 been wiped out recently and the tale of the frontier remains an un- 
 sung lyric to battle and continuous endeavor for civilization that 
 has rarely been equalled in deeds of valor and courage. 
 
 We arrived in North Platte early in the morning. Here central 
 standard time, used thus far, is changed to the mountain standard, one 
 hour slower than central (or two hours slower than Pittsburgh). Not 
 a member of our party was awake to adjust his watch, every soul 
 had drifted drowsily but happily away into the vast mysterious 
 void which men call sleep. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 ONDAY morning the "Alarm Clock" opened a relentless bom- 
 bardment. He stalked abroad with his customary invitation 
 to view the rise of the sun, and there was no chance to evade 
 the request. All arose fresh from a good night's sleep, and 
 the cool invigorating prairie air was refreshing. 
 
 At a mass meeting held in the "stag" coach a program for the 
 day was arranged, and was so brimful of diversity that the program 
 could not possibly stand a border if presented in printed form. The 
 mass meeting was open to all comers everyone had a right, and 
 was expected to make a suggestion. In consequence everyone was 
 talking and listening at the same time, and many pearls of the King's 
 anVl Queen's English fought for supremacy with the prairie winds. 
 
 Even at this early hour, without breakfast to sustain us under 
 the ordeal, the consumptive accordion was given voice in the dis- 
 cussion. The proud musician, with the bandbox on his left knee, 
 was swaying his head to and fro, whistling much of the accompani- 
 ment which the accordion refused to render, even under pressure. 
 
 Biff! Bang! With the velocity of a shooting star a very ripe 
 cantaloupe alighted on the veteran music box. There was an at- 
 mospheric phenomenon, and like a bursting constellation, scattered its 
 component elements in every direction. The instrument fell to the 
 floor in humiliation while the erstwhile star performer arose with 
 every indication of injured pride. All the members of the audience 
 had observed the fruit pass through space, although the musician had 
 no knowledge that he was the attracting force of a flying sphere 
 
14 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 until the contact took place. He figured with astronomical skill that 
 the planet had come from a northwesterly direction, about 72 de- 
 grees south. Of course the moment the planet struck all disturb- 
 ing elements in the air were removed. 
 
 But as Leininger, the once proud but now much offended musi- 
 cian arose, he tenderly placed the accordion on the radiator to dry 
 out and turning suddenly upon his audience dramatically exclaimed: 
 "I bet one doll-ar I know what threw that bunch of bananas! It 
 komes frum dat latitude," pointing his index finger with unerring 
 aim in the direction of Sir Edward Kunberger. "It was 'Kunnie.' 
 'Kunnie' he is jealous because I will make a speech to-day. He 
 accuses me of possessing a gift of silvery language!" 
 
 "Kunnie," unable to shield his guilt any longer, entered a counter 
 complaint, and publicly denounced Leininger as being the "man who 
 ate the soap." The accusation was voted of grave importance, and 
 it was agreed to try both of the accused at the same time. Sir H. 
 Glen Sample was unanimously elected counsel for both parties con- 
 cerned. The "Rowdy Bunch" were chosen as jurymen and counselor 
 Sample presented both cases and both defenses with due formality 
 and grave concern. He maintained, however, that no charge could 
 be made for the cantaloupe, as it had been thrown in. Before the 
 case had been concluded the foreman of the jury announced that 
 a verdict had been reached, whereupon the jurymen, as if with one 
 voice, sang their verdict in the following verse: 
 
 "It may be so for all we know, 
 It sounds to us like a lie " 
 
 "First call for breakfast," cried the porter at this point, and the jury- 
 men, leaping from their seats of judgment, made a "center rush" 
 for the dining car. 
 
 From our seats at the table, we observed an impressive panorama 
 unfolding itself over the prairie land. The sun was slowly rising 
 and threw a warm glow over the landscape, suffusing the picture 
 with a world of coloring. 
 
 Hot fried chicken, mutton chops, omelets, fried potatoes, coffee 
 and many other excellent and palatable offerings comprised the bill- 
 of-fare. We ate while passing through Sutherland and Paxton, two 
 rural towns, and left the breakfast table about the time Ogallala was 
 reached. This town derives its name from the Brule Sioux, a band 
 of Indians of which "Spotted Tail" was the chief. This was the 
 most powerful of Indian tribes in latter day history, numbering at 
 one time nearly 10,000 warriors. A few miles north of Ogallala, is 
 Ash Hollow, a noted Indian camping ground, and the scene of a 
 great victory over them by General Harney in 1859. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 15 
 
 Nebraska was rapidly sinking away in the rear. We had seen 
 no land fade away from/ view with more regret. Her prairie was 
 so unsurpassingly lovely, clad in living green, ribbed with rich vege- 
 tation, spotted with fattened cattle, and flecked with white cottages. 
 Here and there, the lands were riven by deep canals built by the 
 untiring toil of the early settlers, and the sparkling waters that 
 coursed these artificial channels, quenched the thirst of a thousand 
 miles of cultivation. The superb picture was fittingly crowned with 
 the harvest of towering wheat and hay stacks, the fruits o trie earth, 
 and the brawn creators for man and beast. No longer is this the 
 land of treachery, which the teachings of our school-boy days led 
 us to believe. The blood of Nebraska's forefathers has made pos- 
 sible the achievements of to-day. Fair Nebraska, with its still youth- 
 ful but eventful history, has made gigantic yea, marvelous strides 
 to possess and maintain "Peace on earth, good-will toward men." 
 That it has succeeded in rearing the fruits of its choice is shown on 
 every hand. The pioneer road over which we traveled this day had 
 cost many hundreds of lives to construct. There were constant, al- 
 most daily battles with the desperadoes and red men before it was 
 completed. 
 
 Arriving at Julesburg, we found ourselves in Colorado. This 
 station is the diverging point for Denver, 197 miles south. We 
 stopped here for a short time. The town at first glance offered 
 little interest to the traveler, but when a brief hint was given of its 
 legends, the listener gave undivided attention. 
 
 In 1865, the Overland Stage Company had an important station 
 at Julesburg, at which point large supplies were accumulated and 
 stored. Troops were scattered all along the routes, and were fre- 
 quently compelled to escort the stages from station to station be- 
 cause of the hostile red men. Many conflicts were waged in the neigh- 
 borhood of Julesburg. On January 7, 1875, the Sioux and Cheyennes, 
 numbering over 1,000, attacked Fort Sedgwick, then occupied by 
 a force of about 50 men. The attack was repulsed, but not without 
 severe loss. On February 2, 1875, they attacked and burned the 
 station of the stage company at Julesburg. Many similar incidents in 
 frontier history mark the history of the town. It takes its name 
 from Jules Bernard, an old French-Canadian, who was famous in 
 eastern Colorado and southern Nebraska in the days of the emi- 
 grant wagon trains. 
 
 Our journey since leaving the level lands of Iowa was along the 
 natural grades formed by the water courses and consequently thus 
 far our travel was free from heavy grades. The country we en- 
 tered upon leaving Julesburg was occupied almost exclusively by 
 stock raisers, their ranch houses being situated on both sides of 
 
16 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 the river. Some have large tracts of land enclosed for winter ranges 
 and enjoy sidings for shipping stock. The greater number, how- 
 ever, depend entirely upon the public range, both winter and sum- 
 mer. 
 
 Skirting the river, the first station of importance reached was 
 Sterling, situated in the midst of a large and rich tract of bottom 
 land on the Platte River. Our train stopped for 20 minutes, and 
 in accord with usual custom, the members of our party stepped down 
 upon terra firma and devoted themselves in taking snap shots at 
 everything, whether usual or unusual. 
 
 The most attracting incident at Sterling was the sight of a cow- 
 boy, in true western regalia, galloping across the plain, and bearing 
 down toward the train. As he halted, the greater portion of our 
 party advanced for an interview. The conversation naturally led to 
 a discussion of his horse. We noticed that the -winning quality of 
 the animial's nature was his great friendliness toward his master. 
 He was continually sniffing at the clothing of his master and thrust- 
 ing his head under the cowboy's elbow begging to have his forehead 
 rubbed. The noble animal gave every evidence of fondness and 
 affection for him whom he served. We were inclined to believe the 
 noble animal most docile and the cowboy at once took advantage 
 of his audience and started to give a performance. 
 
 By a mere indication of the bridle-hand, he turned him to right 
 or left, and by raising his hand, without the slightest pressure on 
 the bit, he brought his charger to a short and sudden stop. And how 
 well the animal understood the maneuvers desired by his cowboy 
 master. The animal was turned loose "after the bunch." He then 
 gave a clear portrayal of rounding up cattle. All the rider had to 
 do was to stick to him. This was no mean task, for he turned like 
 a flash, and was as quick as a cat on his feet. "Go on," was the 
 only command necessary, and the horse was off like the wind. 
 
 Sir W. G. Reel became possessed of the desire to determine 
 whether or not he could ride the animal. The cowboy gracefully 
 consented that the experiment be tried. As Reel climbed astride 
 the horse the rest of the party were inclined to turn away and be 
 spared the sight of seeing one of our number reduced to fractions. 
 We trembled for him both in admiration of his courage and in sor- 
 row of what we anticipated, and mentally fixed a valuation of "thirty 
 cents" on his future prospects. But he finally got astride. We 
 thought we could see him flying across the prairie and rapidly draw- 
 ing near the horizon. Fortunately, the owner had his horse well 
 trained, crying: "Whoa! Do you want to run away and break 
 your neck?" The animal responded with almost human intelligence, 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 17 
 
 and stood motionless. So submissive did he obey, that he gave every 
 outward indication of desiring to lean against something and think. 
 
 Our friend, the cowboy, informed us that the horse had but a 
 single fault. His tail had been chopped off, or else he had sat down 
 upon it too hard, and was compelled to fight flies with his heels. 
 "He also reaches around and bites my leg," complained the owner. 
 "I do not care particularly about that, only I don't believe a horse 
 should be too sociable." With this startling information the mem- 
 bers of our party could not but reflect how very fortunate it was 
 that there were no ambitious flies about while Sir Reel was astride 
 the horse. 
 
 As the train bore us southward short stops were made at Sny- 
 der, Fort Morgan and LaSalle. Ranch life in all its attractiveness 
 was laid before us, as if upon the pages of an open book. Green 
 pastures and productive fields were being reared from the arid lands 
 by aid of artificial irrigating canals which supply moisture in the 
 face of cloudless skies. Onward we sped through great stock farms, 
 passing countless grazing herds that told of wealth and thrift." 
 
 After a short run through these productive fields we reached 
 Brighton, but 19 miles out of Denver, and often classed as one oj 
 the suburbs of that city. Leaving Brighton, there was great activity 
 and much skirmishing among members of the party. The anima- 
 tion increased until it rivaled the excitement attending a company 
 of firemen about to answer a midnight alarm. 
 
 "Somebody swiped my coat !" announces one. "Say, Shook, have 
 you got a collar button?" 
 
 "Porter! Porter! Brush me up a little!" came the command 
 from several quarters at the same time. 
 
 "Yas sar! in a minute deed dare am 'bout 22 ahead ob you!" 
 
 "Whoa, 'Kunnie,' don't forget your camera," came the advice 
 from one section of the car, while above the babel of chattering voices 
 some of the following expressions were clearly audible : "Hully gee ! 
 I'd give four dollars if I were shaved !" "Davie, are you going to 
 wear your fatigue cap?" "Why cer-tain-ly !" "Then loan me your 
 hat, someone sat down on mine and I can't get at my cap eleven 
 trunks fell on my suitcase !" 
 
 And the ladies! Bless their hearts! They were right at home 
 aboard the train. The quest for hair-pins and hat-pins and efforts 
 to ascertain whether "it was on straight" made life on the rail equal 
 to that in the boudoir. As toilets were being completed we glided 
 into Union Station to the slow music of the engine. 
 
 "Den-verrrrrrr ! Den-ver!" called the brakeman. All stood 
 ready to pay homjage to the "Queen City of the Plains," which is 
 distinguished for her progress and modern methods. What excel- 
 (2) 
 
18 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 lent order is maintained in the vast Union Station ! No frantic crowd- 
 ing and jostling ; no shouting ; no confusion ; no swaggering intru- 
 sion by rowdy hackmen negotiating for fares. The latter gentry stood 
 along the curb line outside the station, beside their long line of con- 
 veyances, and held their peace. 
 
 We had no need for their services at that time. The Committee 
 had wired the Denver Traction Company the day before to have a 
 "Seeing Denver" special car in waiting for us at the depot. With 
 this in mind our party wended its way through the station and took 
 a position on a corner facing the depot, seeking in vain for the car 
 that was not there. 
 
 Investigation brought to light the fact that the freight wreck, 
 which had caused three hours' delay at Millard, had played havoc 
 with the schedule, and that the anticipated palatial trolley car had 
 grown weary of its wait and had been returned to the barns. Un- 
 der the circumstances no one could be held accountable for the dis^- 
 appointment, and the joviality of the party was in itself sufficient 
 to insure the good humor of everybody. Passersby looked on with 
 interest and inquired what it was all about. 
 
 Within a few minutes the whole business section of the city was 
 aware of the fact that the pilgrims had arrived and a dozen mes- 
 sengers were dispatched to the offices of the traction company. The 
 delay afforded us ample opportunity to become acquainted with the 
 surroundings. The picture presented, slowly but surely brought the 
 realization of the blissful consciousness that we were at last beyond 
 question, in the beautiful city of Denver. With absorbing interest, 
 and in blissful forgetfulness of all else, we soon became enwrapped 
 in the romantic phase of our pilgrimage, in all its enchanting de- 
 lightfulness. 
 
 Denver, situated as it is, on the last of the great plains, and 
 upon the threshold of the Rockies, whose peaks were profiled against 
 the clouds in the distance, was sufficient to remove any tinge of 
 disappointment in our short delay, and gave us the opportunity to 
 feast our eyes upon the sublime, as the pendulum of our thoughts 
 swung from plains to mountains ; from mountains to plains again. 
 
 In the distance we could see the outer edge of the foot-hills and 
 the beginning of the rocks that climb, climb, ever climb upward, 
 until capped by the white purity of the everlasting snowbanks that 
 link them with the mysteries of the unknown in the azure firma- 
 ment. Towering in majestic but silent eloquence are the hoary his- 
 toric mountains, such as Long's Peak, the Cheyenne and Sierra 
 Blanca. Further to the south loom up the Spanish Peaks time senti- 
 nels of history and geology. Magnificent ranges stand out about 
 us in serried ranks, lifting their heads far up into the empyrean blue. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 19 
 
 They mark the scene where nature has sculptured vast areas, and 
 bracketed them in the heavens as mantle-pieces for the skies. 
 
 As we gazed out upon the prospect we realized it was but the 
 raising of the first curtain upon scenes which we would behold on 
 the morrow. From Denver we could see the ripples that would swell 
 into waves of beauty in the grandeur of the Rocky Mountains that 
 roll onward in sublimity toward the Pacific Ocean. Thus Nature in 
 the west greeted us with an alluring smile. 
 
 "Here comes the car!" "Oh my! What do you think of that?" 
 the ladies were heard to exclaim. "Impossible! Can't be it!" an- 
 nounced a dozen voices in amazement. As the car bore down up- 
 on us it had every appearance of a tub upon storm-tossed waters ; 
 it zigzagged and pendulumed from side to side as if carrying water 
 on both shoulders, and yet undecided which shoulder to favor. As 
 the "boat" arrived the sudden stop and application of the brakes re- 
 sulted in creating a most hideous noise, not unlike the dumping of 
 a cartload of cobble stones upon a surface of sheet iron. Burry at 
 once explained: "Boys! That's the salute!" Whereupon we all 
 humbly but gracefully bowed in recognition. We then carefully 
 scrutinized the antediluvian curiosity with keen interest. It would 
 have made a cherished specimen for the national museum of an- 
 tiquities, or could have been condemned to the junk heap without in- 
 trinsic loss to anyone. 
 
 A banner bearing the invitation: "See Denver by Trolley," 
 was stretched across the "cow-catcher," or fender. The muslin ban- 
 ner served a two-fold purpose to advertise the enterprise as well 
 as shield from view the absence of bolts from places most neces- 
 sary. Strangers are prone to mistake these cars for sand cars, al- 
 though they are entitled to marked respect, owing to their advanced 
 age and the many years they have engaged in faithful service. While 
 there were evidences that the car had once experienced the robust 
 full-bloom of youth, it was now rapidly wasting away in the street. 
 Perhaps the car still had hopes in the rarefied air of Denver. 
 
 However, it was finally agreed to trust ourselves to the mercies 
 of the car. As we started to board the "Pullman" the conductor 
 cautiously "sized us up," one by one, explaining that it was necessary 
 that the passengers be properly distributed, and seated in such posi- 
 tion as to keep the car balanced. It was evident that the tonnage 
 exceeded the capacity of the car for the body of the car sank down 
 until it rested upon the wheels with a groan. 
 
 We started, and as the car shot forward with the speed and 
 grace of a team of oxen, the wheels sent forth a continual piercing 
 grind that appealed strongly to our sympathies. The drop doors in 
 the floor of the car were well worn off their hinges, and each time 
 
20 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 the car bumped its way over a crossing the jolting of the primitive 
 motors sent the doors up to smite the passengers, as if in protest 
 against their burdensome task. 
 
 It soon became evident that there had been a miscalculation in 
 the division of the tonnage. There was, apparently, too much 
 avoirdupois on the right side or to be more correct, on the wrong 
 side. Difficulty was found in maintaining the equilibrium of the car. 
 It moved along with a see-saw motion that became more pro- 
 nounced as the conductor waded through the aisle. 
 
 An announcer, with megaphone in hand, had taken his station 
 at the head of the car, and he, by the way, as well as the conductor, 
 was polite and obliging, and both deserved a better fate. The an- 
 nouncer began to open fire with his volley of information, not only 
 identifying and explaining everything that presented itself along the 
 route but also entered into a general description and history of the 
 city itself. 
 
 "Ladies and gentlemen! Denver the capital the commercial 
 center and principal city in the state of Colorado ! Fifteen miles east 
 of the Rocky Mountains on a level plain 5,196 feet above the sea! 
 In the 46 years since its origin, this village of miners grew into the 
 handsome ' Queen City of the Plains.' 
 
 " The Union Pacific Railway route across the continent was the 
 first constructed. It was opened in 1869 and greatly encouraged 
 travel to the Pacific coast. 
 
 "Denver is also called 'The Great City of the Rockies.' You will 
 note the snow-capped summits in the west in a magnificent and un- 
 broken line, in view for 170 miles from Pike's Peak in the north to 
 Long's Peak ; with many intermediate summits, most of which rise 
 14,000 feet. Denver stands on a high plateau through which the 
 South Platte River flows. It has a population of 134,000, gathered 
 from all sections of the globe. It shelters many manufacturing en- 
 terprises, and some of the most extensive and important ore smelt- 
 ing works in the world! The annual output of silver and gold is 
 enormous ! 
 
 "The high elevation and healthful climate make it a beneficial 
 resort for those suffering from pulmonary ailments. The artesian 
 water supply has no equal in the world, being taken from more than 
 300 wells, running from 380 to 1160 feet beneath the city! This 
 water is as clear and pure as the flawless crystal! Forty-eight miles 
 south of the city Denver has built for its water works the highest 
 dam in the world. The city was named in honor of General James 
 W. Denver, an early governor of Kansas and a soldier in the Civil 
 War. He first suggested Colorado as the name (for what was then) 
 a territory. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 21 
 
 "Note the great Colorado Front Range, or eastern ridge of the 
 Rockies, stretching gradually across the country with ranges in the 
 rear extending far into the west to the Utah Pass. Towering be- 
 hind the front range, is Saguache Range, the chief ridge of the 
 Rockies, which forms the Continental Divide. 
 
 "Among these complicated ranges are various extensive parks 
 and broad valleys, nestling among peaks and ridges, and which were 
 originally the beds of inland lakes. Out of these mountains, flow 
 scores of rivers in every direction; the affluents of the Mississippi to 
 the east, the Rio Grande to the south and the Colorado and Colum- 
 bus to the west." 
 
 The announcer next called attention to the public buildings, 
 cathedrals, churches, schools, playhouses, and the palatial and well- 
 appointed hotels. Smilingly he referred to the street car system, and 
 as a fitting climax, the motor of our car burnt out at the moment he 
 attained the height of his eulogy. 
 
 Here we were detained for a time and patiently sat in our 
 palatial gondola awaiting assistance. A good Samaritan, in the form 
 of one of the regulation city traction cars appeared, and becoming 
 attached to our car, both in spirit and by means of a coupling pin, 
 valiantly towed us into the nearest car-barn. 
 
 Our fond expectations for a more modern vehicle were wrested 
 from us, for entering the car-barn, we beheld several more ''Seeing 
 Denver" trucks resting upon the tracks. Among the employees of 
 the barn these antiques were known under the names of "Adam," 
 "Methusela," "Jacob" and "Isaac" all the ancient patriarchs being 
 honored in one of these relics of time. 
 
 We were quickly transferred into another ancient car, and as 
 it repulsed the idea of further service with painful groans while 
 slowly wending its way upon the main tracks, the announcer con- 
 tinued his "speil," enumerating the industries of the city. 
 
 "The building on your left," he continued, "is the public library 
 with over 100,000 volumes. On your left is a public school, of which 
 there are 60 in the city, with a daily attendance of 26,000 pupils and 
 580 teachers. To your right the law schools and medical college. 
 ^Approaching on the left, is Uhe Denver Club, erected at a cost of a 
 quarter of a million dollars the Denver Athletic Club, a $225,000 
 structure. Here is the University Club; yonder the Woman's Club, 
 with a membership of over 1,000." 
 
 We then passed through a residential section of the city lined 
 with beautiful homes and intersected by broad avenues lined with 
 shade trees and magnificent lawns. Denver is almost exclusively a 
 city of brick and stone ; the buildings with few exceptions, are costly 
 and substantial, and thoroughly modern in appointments. The State 
 
22 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 Capitol is graced with a lofty dome, and stands on a high eminence, 
 making it visible from all points of the city. It was erected at a cost 
 of $2,500,000. 
 
 As we bounded along the car shook and groaned terribly. Pas- 
 sengers were rolling from one end to the other. Momentarily we 
 expected to see our bones protruding through our skins. After a 
 succession of fearful bumps, we found ourselves bobbing along 
 rather smoothly. 
 
 Sir Samuel Coombs, with a sincerity born of hope, expressed the 
 cheerful sentiment : "We are going a bit smoother, I see." 
 
 "Yes," announced Sir C. C. Heckel, "We're off the track now." 
 
 His declaration was true to the letter. We had traveled several 
 hundred feet without touching a rail. The conductor and the an- 
 nouncer at once entered into an impromptu debate as to a method of 
 relief, when Sir Harry Kreps offered a practical suggestion, which 
 was at once acted upon, and we were again upon the rail. Were it 
 not for the uncertainty of the route, all would have preferred to re- 
 main off the tracks. 
 
 Proceeding slowly onward, we soon found ourselves at one of 
 Denver's beautiful parks. A picturesque sight was presented. Scat- 
 tered about, were rustic seats and benches in secluded nooks that 
 were dark with shade. Rivulets of crystal water; lakelets with 
 grassy banks; glimpses of sparkling cascades through openings in 
 wildernesses of foliage ; streams of clear water gushing from artificial 
 knots on trunks of huge trees all aided to form the beauty of the 
 picture. 
 
 Many airy lookouts are provided here where one might gaze up- 
 on broad expanses of landscape. Banks of rare flowers lent fragrance 
 to the air. The customary park sign, "Keep off the grass," was ab- 
 sent, but instead, placards were prominently displayed bearing the 
 inscription: "Keep in the path." 
 
 The command to keep within the narrow confines of the "path," 
 was the source of much merriment to members of our party. Many 
 acknowledged having tried to keep within this command of seeking 
 the "straight and narrow path" for some time. 
 
 After squirming around the city for a short time our car 
 finally brought up near the beginning of our expedition. It might 
 be said here, in justice to the Denver Street Car Company, that the 
 "Seeing Denver" cars are controlled by a different company than the 
 one controlling the traction service. Ohily such cars as are dis- 
 carded as being unfit for further service, were allotted to the "See- 
 ing Denver" company. Denver, with its 820 miles of streets, has 
 150 miles of electric street railway as completely and modernly 
 equipped as any other city in the country. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 23 
 
 Leaving the car, we found ourselves ready to do justice to a 
 substantial dinner. However, as we had but limited time to re- 
 main in Denver, we decided that it would be best to devote as much 
 of it as possible to sight-seeing, and partake only of a light lunch- 
 eon. 
 
 Sirs Jack, Shook, Sample, Beckert and Mr. Ivon Morris Lowrie, 
 the advance guard, spied a restaurant, in front of which was sta- 
 tioned a loud-voiced barker, who shouted the encouraging invitation: 
 "Best meal in the city! All you can eat for twenty-five cents!" 
 
 "That's me! Here too! Aye! Aye! I'm for you!" shouted 
 the invading advance guard. 
 
 The lunch room was so impressively inviting that it opened 
 right into the street. The cooking apparatus was secreted in tne 
 rear, and as the advance guard rushed literally into the arms of 
 the lone waiter, his countenance broke into a smile that denoted 
 realization of promised prosperity. The waiter at once regained com- 
 posure, and taking on an important air, gave every evidence of being 
 proprietor as well. As a matter of fact, he was a man of many at- 
 tainments, and soon proved himself to be the one performer of the 
 roles of proprietor, head waiter, waiter, chef, dishwasher, (if there 
 was any) and last but not least the cashier. The barker was the 
 only other official of the corporation, and it is doubtful whether or 
 not he was a stockholder. 
 
 The table had no cloth upon it. The waiter had, but it was in 
 such condition as to add to his slovenly appearance and that of the 
 eating-house in general. The fellow began calling out the offer- 
 ings of the menu with a rapidity that bespoke of a permanent and 
 never-changing bill-of-fare. 
 
 Taking the orders he faced in the direction of the supposed lo- 
 cation of the cook and shouted a repetition of the orders received. 
 Then there was a delay. Obligingly he gave the information that 
 he would interview the cook and "hurry him along." 
 
 Rushing into the rear the waiter-cook was seen to take down a 
 mass of meat, and spreading it around a wire creation, laid it over 
 a smoldering fire to cook. As it was finished to his liking, he laid it 
 aside, just as a wandering dog stalked sadly into the kitchen. The 
 canine sniffed at it, and probably recognizing the remnants of a 
 one-time fellow companion, kissed the steak with tears in his eyes. 
 The cook indignantly took it away from the dog and hurried it in to 
 the guests. 
 
 Jack, who is acquainted with the rules of euchre, announced: 
 "I pass." Shook, who never could be interested in golf, would have 
 nothing to do with the sausage links. In fact, all "passed" in turn, 
 and called for a new deal. Then the chef cooked broad, flat wheat 
 
24 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 cakes, and greasing them generously with sausage meat, started for- 
 ward with them. A few dropped to the floor (the cakes), but he 
 picked them up with great care, and polishing them off gently on 
 his elbow, laid them before the diners with proud satisfaction. 
 
 Sample said he would "stand pat." Beckert announced that 
 Ivon Morris "took the cake," and passed them along. Lowrie be- 
 lieved it would be malicious to demolish such exquisite pastry, and 
 the cakes remained untouched. But the resourceful and willing 
 chef remained patiently at his work. Breaking a few eggs into a 
 frying-pan, he stood by meditating, as he pried morsels of meat from 
 between his teeth with a fork, stopping only to turn the eggs 
 with the same fork. As he brought in this course, the banqueters, 
 in a moment of unrest, ordered another ration of sausage to dis- 
 pense with the presence of the cook in order to hold a consultation. 
 Undaunted, the cook again got out his wire cooking utensil, wound 
 the proper allotment of sausage meat around it, and rolling up his 
 sleeves, spat upon his hands, and fell upon his work with vim and 
 vigor. Then Jack, Shook, Sample, Beckert and Lowrie passed out 
 into the rarified air of the street. 
 
 The quintette sized up another restaurant in the immediate 
 vicinity. "It don't look good to me," declared Shook". "Let's in- 
 quire," suggested Beckert. So Sample began to cross-examine the 
 proprietor. "How are the sandwiches to-day fresh?" With in- 
 dignation at the intimation, the proprietor answered: "If you turn 
 my sandwiches over, you will find the date of issue on each one. 
 They were all fresh made, even if I don't remember just when they 
 were created. If you have artificial teeth that fail to penetrate the 
 sandwich, it is the fault of your dentist for not welding them out 
 of iron ore!" 
 
 "How's the eggs?" was asked. 
 
 "Eggs are our specialty," declared the proprietor, "that's why 
 they call this restaurant 'The Henry.' As soon as the eggs are 
 turned over to me for inspection by the hen, they are dated, and 
 when fried or boiled, they are again timed with red ink. If any of 
 my help should date an egg ahead, I would discharge him on the 
 spot. No restaurant in Denver would attempt to compete with me. 
 I have the kindest regard for travelers. I would hate to meet them 
 in eternity holding nuggets of rancid ham sandwiches under my nose. 
 I never have to apologize for my hand-turned, seamless pies, either." 
 As the proprietor reached for an abandoned cigar stump, Lowrie 
 struck up the air: 
 
 "It may be so, for all we know; 
 But it sounds to us like a lie." 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 25 
 
 All fled, hungry and disappointed, and hailed two of those sawed- 
 off landaus, bearing but two wheels. Instructing the college students 
 on the box to take them to the nearest hotel, the famished five 
 handed over a quarter apiece, and lay back and sighed a sigh of 
 relief. The sigh had hardly been heaved, when the landaus were 
 brought to a stop at a hotel within 200 yards from where the ve- 
 hicles started. 
 
 After all had dined, a stroll was taken about the streets of 
 Denver with the purpose of viewing such sights as were on view, 
 without distressing or exerting ourselves. Several of the Sir Knights 
 visited the headquarters of the local Commanderies and were most 
 courteously received, in some instances it almost became necessary 
 to use force in effecting a leave-taking. The Sir Knights of our 
 party who had made the call, took great pride in exhibiting and 
 wearing "exchange" badges which their Denver brethren had be- 
 stowed upon them. 
 
 The day was drawing to a close with the same rare demonstra- 
 tion as graced its beginning. The horizon was cast with half red- 
 ness; in an amber sky, depths were assuming color, long oblique 
 flames were empurpling the mountains, then the rocks, and finally, the 
 sands. Shadows were taking possession of the land which had be- 
 come fatigued by the heat of the first half of the day. 
 
 As the sun sank over the violet mountains and night made ready 
 to fall, the birds came from out of their shelter and chirruped and 
 sang in the gardens, while the people in the streets, terraces and 
 verandas rapidly became multiplied in numbers. 
 
 As we drove and walked along the streets of Denver we be- 
 came deeply impressed and instilled with the refreshing spirit of 
 comfort which seemed to pervade all things. It is in marked contrast 
 to the busy, restless, driving, vitality-consuming atmosphere of West- 
 ern Pennsylvania. One of the greatest charms of Denver life is 
 the "free-from-care" feeling that prevails everywhere at the close 
 of the work of the day. Minds are not burdened with the losses 
 or gains of the day, or the plans for the morrow, after nightfall. 
 Energies are not burned with these restless excitements, nor lives 
 worn out at a time when they should be in full bloom among Den- 
 verites. 
 
 As the farmer offers a season's rest to the acre of land which 
 has served him well; as the trainmen stable each engine at the end 
 of the division, to allow the machinery to cool; as the barber lays 
 aside the razor which has seen continued service, that relaxation 
 may bring back a keener edge so the people of the west store their 
 energies during the evening and night, and with fresh vitality at 
 
26 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 command each morn, have made the country renowned for its enter- 
 prise and achievement. 
 
 Evening walks and drives in and about Denver are enchant- 
 ing. Concerts and musical functions are provided lavishly. The 
 people of the west have a keener appreciation of the purpose of 
 life and the necessity of relaxation than have their brethren in the 
 east. The contagion of the spirit was manifest in members of our 
 party, who had not only gained substantially in weight, but in cheer- 
 fulness as well; not to mention the improvement in looks. 
 
 We left Denver and our friend Mr. S. K. Hooper, a happy shining 
 light, at 9 :30 o'clock at night over the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, 
 properly known as the "Scenic Line of the World." It carried us 
 through the portal of grandeur which opens into the grand audi- 
 torium of the Rocky Mountains, where Nature sings her most won- 
 drous music. As the train bore us rapidly southward, we became 
 enrapt with the inspiration wrought by the sublimity of the 
 mountain land. While we stood admiring the cloud-capped peaks 
 and the lowlands robed in misty gloom, a finer and more entranc- 
 ing picture burst upon us and chained every eye with magnetic force. 
 We were approaching Pike's Peak. 
 
 We stopped for a time at Palmer Lake, with more of mountain 
 and less of plain, with its Glen Park and Chautauqua. This is the 
 divide, the watershed, where to the north the tributaries feed the 
 South Platte and to the south they wind their w,ay to the Arkansas 
 River. 
 
 As we start onward we come into full realization of Pike's Peak. 
 Previously, this monarch had been to us only a name. True we 
 had seen the mountain in picture, and heard of it in poem and song, 
 but at last it had become a reality, a shape we were sitting in the 
 majestic presence of the great throne. 
 
 The monarch was still far away when we first saw it, but there 
 was no such thing as mistaking, for it towers into the sky like a 
 colossal wedge, and stands in sublime solitude which bespeaks pride 
 and dignity. A portion of this stately piece of rock, this sky-cleaving 
 monolith, is above the line of eternal snow. Some of the neighbor- 
 ing giants of rock appear black from waist up, while Pike's Peak 
 stands naked and forbidding. Its sides are so perpendicular that 
 snow cannot rest upon them except for a few powdered streaks in 
 the crevices. Near the top, however, the snow takes hold and re- 
 mains perpetually. 
 
 Its proud stature, its august isolation, and its majestic unkin- 
 ship with its own kind, lends a sacred dignity to this Napoleon of 
 the mountain world. 
 
 We passed Monument and Husted, and caught a few glimpses 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 27 
 
 of the towns, but we could not become interested in such things, 
 for we were in a fever of impatience to meet the monarch of the 
 mountains face to face. 
 
 It was after midnight when we arrived at the trio cities of Colora- 
 do Springs, Colorado City and Manitou. Here Pike's Peak becomes 
 more rugged and sublime so vast, so grand, so solemn! While a 
 very world of solid weight, this monster looms up in the soft moon- 
 light, as a fairy delusion of frostwork that one might vanquish with 
 a breath. It appeared as a vision, so delicate, so airy, so graceful ! 
 
 Howsoever who look upon it it is noble and beautiful, and while 
 it is visible no counter-attraction can command your attention. Leave 
 your eyes unfettered for an instant and they will revert to gaze upon 
 Pike's Peak. Half the night, and all of the next day, this masterpiece 
 of nature's architecture was our sole object of interest. 
 
 As the morning was ushered in and many of the pilgrims sought 
 their berths, all lights aboard the train were turned down, with the 
 exception of those in the "stag" coach and commissary car. The 
 "Terrible Quartette" expressed a desire to lift up their voices and 
 sing in praise of Pike's Peak. Others, equally inspired, joined in, 
 regardless of the formality of following the same music and song. 
 However, nothing was broken but the stillness of the night. 
 
 We were all fond of music, and the flute, jew's-harp, clarionet, 
 bazoo and bass drum played in active competition on the same tunes. 
 How we remember them! It is doubtful if we can ever rid them 
 from our minds. The triangle and grind-organ were never played 
 except at devotional services, or at such times when the ladies were 
 awake. The music from these two instruments was too inspiring 
 to waste on mere men. 
 
 It was greatly to our sorrow that it was impossible to have a 
 piano on board. Sir Sample has wonderful command over this 
 instrument. With a mere wave of his hand, he can make an upright 
 lay down and beg. As for baby grands, he can make them come 
 and eat out of his hand. 
 
 A proposition was made that Leininger favor us with a new 
 selection on the consumptive accordion. The bandbox had been 
 chained under his seat since the day it met with the fatal accident. 
 A committee appointed for the purpose used considerable persua- 
 sion and Leininger finally consented. Then everyone scrambled for 
 a gallery seat. As the musician entered with instrument under his 
 arm, he announced that he would play a lullaby to Pike's Peak. 
 "Imagine a lullaby on an accordion!" said "Kunnie." 
 
 As he strode to and fro, gracefully swinging his accordion, as 
 with uplifted head he sang a song of tears to the mountain king, un- 
 fortunately he tripped over a rope which had been stretched from 
 
28 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 refrigerator to lunch counter. As someone yelled "Murder!" Lein- 
 inger fell into a heap upon his precious music-box. Amid the peals 
 of laughter that were echoed from the mountains, Leininger ex- 
 claimed: "Well, what do you think of that?" gathered himself up, 
 and with a painful look of disgust, picked up the fragments of his 
 accordion, and piece by piece, hurled it out upon the tracks. 
 
 Sir Aberli knew part of a melody something about "How 
 sweet it was to know something or other." We took it for granted 
 it would have been much sweeter if he had known all about it, for 
 he remembered only a few bars of the melody and played them con- 
 tinuously. 
 
 We finally contracted with him to restrain himself, but not 
 until all had joined with him in several efforts to improve the classic 
 composition. "Bobbie," who was one of the most ambitious assistant 
 composers, failed in his efforts. His voice was so strong that it 
 required eight or ten men to control it. 
 
 Starting with a faint, dismal sort of Bass about third base 
 it would suddenly be caught by a short-stop, and finally land some- 
 where between center and left field. Besides, "Bobbie" was not 
 acquainted with the melody which was being sacrificed, and this 
 also worked to his disadvantage. 
 
 William plead with him: "Come Bobbie, don't improvise. It's 
 too egotistical. It will provoke remark. Just stick to 'How sweet it 
 is to know,' etc. You can't improve upon it on the spur of the mo- 
 ment!" 
 
 "Bobbie" insisted that he was not improvising, but was restrict- 
 ing his vocal efforts along the lines laid out by the composer. Sir 
 Greenwald expressed himself publicly on the horror of the exhibi- 
 tion, for which he was not allowed to join in. He stated that such 
 singing was to him what a red rag was to a bull, and insisted that 
 any further efforts on the part of the nightingales would bring dis- 
 grace upon the whole party, and that it was a mean advantage to 
 take in the presence of Pike's Peak, inasmuch as the king of the 
 mountains had not the power of speech to express himself. 
 
 "Bobbie," however, was not to be constrained, and continued 
 to tear off additional bars of his selections, meanwhile viewing the 
 outer world from the open door of the commissary car. William 
 looked at Otto and Otto looked at Burry. They turned around and 
 saw Oscar looking at Staiger and Staiger looking at Oscar ; then all 
 turned and gazed on "Bobbie." "Bill" thought he would break up 
 the racket by asking: "Bobbie, will you be so kind as to tell us the 
 altitude of Pike's Peak?" The singing went on, heedless of the 
 question put. Burry asked: "What street car will I take for the 
 South Side?" The singing continued. Oscar asked: "Bob, oh Bob, 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 29 
 
 do you think you'll work tomorrow ?" No cessation ; the storm con- 
 tinued. Otto tapped him on the shoulders and whispered some- 
 thing in his ear, but "Bobbie" only shook his head and soared higher 
 and higher. Then we entreated him, we begged and plead with him 
 in the name of all that was good, and for the sake of our dear wives 
 and families so many miles away, for the sake of humanity, to please 
 stop ; but our entreaties were of no more avail than had we remained 
 dumb. Then we tried the custom of politics, by endeavoring to 
 bribe him with money, pearls, precious stones, U. S. Bonds, and U. 
 S. Steel, or even offered to stop somewhere and make him a present 
 of a ranch with a thousand acres to boot, if he would only cease 
 and allow the weary to rest. We were now positive that "Bobbie" 
 was wound up, so we silently took "French leave" as "Bobbie" looked 
 without. Presently he turned about. His audience consisted only 
 of Johnstone seated on the refrigerator fast asleep. With guilty 
 conscience "Bobbie" silently tip-toed off to bed. 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 NDER the shadows of Pike's Peak we slept the peaceful 
 slumbers of the just. We dreamt of the pleasures that were 
 and of the pleasures that were to be. Ere the sun had risen 
 its head above the most distant mountain peak the pilgrims 
 were bounding from their berths on this cheerful mid-summer morn- 
 ing Tuesday, August the 23rd. 
 
 Early rising at Colorado Springs is no exertion. The fresh- 
 ness and exquisite purity of the atmosphere thrills one, while there 
 is an indescribable charm in the early gloaming, as it steals silently 
 over the mountains. 
 
 To enjoy the exquisite inception of a new day, one must be up 
 ere the glory of the starlight has paled, as we did that morning. 
 The air was perfumed with a heavenly fragrance. And the birds! 
 They swept back and forth across the valleys constantly, while 
 their jubilant music was never stilled. 
 
 From the position in which our "special" was side-tracked, we 
 commanded a glorious view of the valley, and the many peaks be- 
 yond. As a pale daffodil light crept upward, the stars faded from 
 the heavens. The great ghostly dome changed in hue from deep 
 purple to a cold dead white, while the distant snow-capped peaks 
 stood boldly forth under a glittering dazzle of light, and silvery gray 
 
30 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 mists floated upward from the valley as if awakening from their 
 sleep. 
 
 A faint chilled breath of some cold current heralds the daybreak 
 and the tremulous leaves quiver and whisper greetings to the dawn. 
 Suddenly a faint flush of rosy light tinges the highest peak and grad- 
 ually stealing downward overspreads range beyond range until, in 
 another moment, the whole chain of mountains were alike ablaze 
 in the fiery glow. Meanwhile, the valleys remain shrouded in purple 
 gloom and a great, solemn stillness brooded over all. 
 
 It was a deep, satisfying and never-to-be-forgotten pleasure to 
 observe the sun create the new morn, and gradually, slowly and 
 patiently clothe it with splendor after splendor, and glory upon 
 glories, till the miracle was complete. 
 
 Okir attentions were riveted deeply absorbed in the marvel be- 
 fore us. The billowy chaos of mazy mountain domes, and the 
 peaks draped in imperishable snow, were flooded with a glory of 
 changing and dissolving splendor; while through rifts in a black 
 cloud-bank above the sun radiated lances of diamond dust which shot 
 out to the zenith. The valleys of the lower world swam in a tinted 
 mist, which veiled the ruggedness of their crags, ribs and forests, and 
 turned all the forbidding region into a soft, rich and sensuous para- 
 dise. 
 
 We spoke not a word. No expressions were exchanged. We 
 could only gaze and in ecstasy drink in the wonder-work of the 
 heavens. Moment by moment it grew grander and more wonder- 
 ful in color effect. Then suddenly as the sun rolled into full sight 
 an orb of gleaming gold flooded the world beneath with almost in- 
 sufferable radiance! Voluminous masses of white clouds were hur- 
 ried away by the sweepings of the north winds! For an instant the 
 sun was hidden from view, but again appeared to demonstrate its 
 right of eminent domain then gracefully retired behind a soft filmy 
 veiling of cloud, that served to distill the light of day. 
 
 While there was no fire on board the train during the previous 
 night (though there was considerable of "a hot time,") there was a 
 marked scarcity of water in the morning, several of the early risers 
 wending their way down to a nearby creek to bathe in the open. 
 It seemed to them a blessed privilege, and resulted in those taking 
 the "water-cure" feeling refreshed and even light-hearted. 
 
 Returning to the railroad station, "Joe," who was in the lead, 
 gave the command : "Come on boys !" as he entered and gathered 
 his army in front of the window of the telegraph operator, who was 
 a young woman. Sir Gilchrist, with pride-swollen chest, and strik- 
 ing an attitude of independence by thrusting a thumb underneath 
 each suspender strap at the arm pit, announced in commanding tones : 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 31 
 
 "I want to send a message!" 
 
 "Where to?" asked the young lady with all the sweetness at 
 her command. 
 
 "Any old place," replied "Joe" with nonchalance, "But," he 
 added, "You might as well make it Allegheny." 
 
 By this time the young lady was in spirit with the occasion, 
 and tantalizingly inquired: "Pray, where is Allegheny?" 
 
 "What do you think of that, boys?" asked "Joe," clearly in- 
 dicating his injured pride. "Don't know where Allegheny is? Well, 
 it's bounded on the east by New York; on the west by Chicago; on 
 the north by Canada and on the south by Florida. Why, Allegheny 
 is the city that gave a world's fair to St. Louis. But never mind the 
 message; permit me to ask are you fond of music?" 
 
 "Oh, my, yes!" exclaimed the young lady, enraptured at the idea. 
 "No," she didn't have any preference, "just so it's music." 
 
 The invaders then lifted their voices to that same old, soul- 
 maddening screech: "Bedelia." They assaulted it, crippled it, and 
 then slaughtered it and nobody mourned, though the station was 
 half-filled with passengers. Most of them stood upon the seats, 
 probably to rise above such music. They applauded vigorously but 
 could not drown the horrible noise. They even laughed so does 
 the victim who has to have a tooth pulled and is helpless to resist 
 it. 
 
 With further suggestion and solicitation upon the part of the 
 audience they started to break the peace again. Notwithstanding 
 the fact that we have had several open and private meetings since, and 
 have carefully gone over all the works of foreign and native com- 
 posers, we can arrive at no reasonable or definite conclusion as to 
 what that second song was. We still remain in the darkness and bliss 
 of ignorance. 
 
 Occasionally, for a very brief time, two of the participants car- 
 ried the same air, and when one reached a part which was most 
 familiar to him, he wanted to be heard, and his voice rose up in 
 supreme command, and started off like a race horse until another 
 followed with the enthusiasm of a steam calliope. Then someone 
 pitched his voice into a beautiful minor key it must have been a 
 night-key, for it was one that minors should not be permitted to 
 carry. Then some song-bird wrecked the whole business with a sound 
 similar to that made by a circular saw striking a rusty nail only to 
 be lost in a general shuffle of sharps, flats, majors and minors in 
 wasteful extravagance. Then there rose out of the wreckage a sweet 
 melodious voice, for a second such a brief second while the singer 
 was hastening through some bar that was familiar to him, (tem- 
 perance bar if you please). Then some one chased him to cover with 
 
32 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 a thunderous roar like the unloading of a cartload of cobblestones 
 upon sheet iron, and just when victory seemed within grasp, a pass- 
 ing freight train whistled and shrieked by in full supremacy and 
 conquered the howling dervishes. 
 
 The listeners applauded and expressed a wish that the concert 
 (?) be prolonged, but announcement was made that it was one of 
 the fundamental rules of the opera company not to play more than 
 one engagement in a town. Experience had taught them that it 
 was unsafe to life and limb to appear before the same audience twice. 
 Sir Burry further explained that they had completely revolutionized 
 music, and were burying the old masters one by one, and that his 
 artists differed from all others in one notable respect; that they 
 were not merely spotted with music here and there, but were sat- 
 urated with it. 
 
 The young lady was full of praises. "I know," she said, "that 
 your music is high-grade. It so delighted me, stirred me, enraptured 
 me and moved me, that I could have cried all the time." 
 
 "Cried for help?" suggested Sir Greenawalt. 
 
 "Oh no," she answered, "you didn't need any. There was volume 
 quite sufficient to your recitals. When you come again, the com- 
 bined theatres of the city will not be sufficient to hold the audience." 
 
 With an entrancing smile and pleasant bow, each member of 
 the chorus bid adieu, and stepping out on the platform felt so smit- 
 ten with pride, that each dived into his pocket and pinned another 
 "exchange badge" on his coat as a personal reward for merit. 
 
 Following breakfast, we boarded a street car near the Colorado 
 Springs for a ride to Manitou, a distance of five miles west, passing 
 en route Colorado City, the first capital of the State. Located di- 
 rectly at the foot of Pike's Peak, at an elevation of 6,318 feet, is 
 Manitou. It sits in the lap of an amphitheatre of mountains and 
 foot-hills, and may truly be termed, the Switzerland of America. 
 The cog-wheel railroad which runs to the summit of Pike's Peak, 
 starts at Manitou, and here are located the celebrated medical Soda, 
 Sulphur and Iron Springs. 
 
 Situated in the heart of the town and at the end of the street 
 car line are the Soda Springs. It is a popular gathering place and 
 is visited by thousands of tourists annually, who come to drink of 
 its refreshing waters. We all partook freely, there was plenty of it, 
 and it never runs dry. 
 
 The Sulphur Springs have a flavor all their own. Not only do 
 their waters taste of minerals, but bear the perfume of several kinds 
 of groceries in solution such as stale Easter eggs and onions, that 
 have been drowned in kerosene. It bears a flavor of brimstone, or 
 something that would make a blazed trail at night, all the way up 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 33 
 
 Pike's Peak. It would serve as an excellent weapon for revenge. 
 If one would drink a quart of the sulphur water and breathe hard 
 on an enemy, it would produce blind staggers ; two breaths on a man 
 means a metallic casket for one. 
 
 At the extreme end of Ruxton Avenue, we found the Ute Iron 
 Springs; another large effervescing spring, but instead of the spark- 
 ling soda, or self-pronouncing sulphur, we found modest, strength- 
 giving iron water springs. Sir Gilland inquired of the attendant 
 if he was sure that there were no rusty nails, old wash-boilers, 
 horse-shoes, or other hardware at the bottom of the spring, and was 
 assured to the contrary. He was told of the strength-giving proper- 
 ties of the water, and urged everyone to partake, to gain the re- 
 quired strength to climb Pike's Peak. The Ute Iron Springs re- 
 ceived their name from the tribe of Ute Indians. Sir Lee claims that 
 it was the springs that made the Indians red men, for he explained 
 that they drank so much iron water that they became rusty inside 
 until it broke through their skin, and gave them the reddish out- 
 ward appearance. 
 
 However, all the mineral waters in the neighborhood of Manitou, 
 rank high as a beverage, and many persons are using them dur- 
 ing the entire year. They resemble those of Ems, and are beneficial 
 to consumptive, dyspeptic and other patients. 
 
 The tour about Manitou was of unusual interest and attraction. 
 Following the road due north from the Soda Springs, one enters 
 Williams' Canyon, a most picturesque gorge. Its walls blend with 
 strata of sandstone and limestone, showing colorings of pink, gray, 
 vermillion and white. Above are several hundred feet of limestone, 
 in which a number of curious caverns have been discovered, the 
 most notable of which being the Cave of the Winds. These caves are 
 three-quarters of a mile underground, and run directly through the 
 heart of the mountain. Here the handiwork of nature in all its 
 charms and wonder is to be seen. The "Diamond Hall" and "Crystal 
 Palace" are the principal attractions in these subterranean chambers. 
 The ceiling of "Diamond Hall" is decorated with graceful wreaths 
 and festoons of flowery alabaster, which under the influence of the 
 magnesium light of the guide, is beautiful to the extreme, and every 
 inch of wall sparkles and scintillates every conceivable color and 
 shade, giving the effect of diamond Mosaic work. 
 
 The Grand Caverns are beautiful caves located two and one- 
 half miles from Manitou over a magnificent drive up the famous Ute 
 Pass, one of the historic highways of the Rockies. First a mere 
 trail paced by the Indians in their flights over the mountains, it became 
 a wagon-road to Leadville, and yet serves as one of the most ac- 
 cessible passages over the mountains. 
 
 (3) 
 
34 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 Presently we came to the station of the famous Cog Wheel Rail- 
 road which ascends a grade of twenty-five per cent, and reaches 
 an elevation of 14,147 feet at the summit. We gazed with interest 
 upon this mountain railway, and it seemed incredible that the train 
 which was standing ready to pull out, could creep straight up to 
 the mountain top. Mr. C. W. Sells and Mr. Benjamin P. Wheat, 
 lofty and elevating gentlemen, stood nearby, and stated it had often 
 performed that very miracle and any doubt in our minds was soon 
 dispelled as the odd-looking locomotive began to enter upon its task. 
 The boiler end was coupled to the coach, and the engine was tilted 
 sharply backward, so that it could take up the cogs that propel 
 the train. The coach was comfortably equipped and was composed 
 chiefly of glass to facilitate observation. The seats are so equipped 
 as to remain level regardless of the grades. The engine pushes the 
 car in ascending, and precedes it in descending; thus insuring com- 
 plete control over the coach, which, because of not being coupled 
 to the locomotive, can be operated independently. 
 
 There was scarcely room in the one car for our entire party, 
 but rather than be separated, several of the "boys" sat upon the floor 
 of the front platform, and bracing their feet against the railing, 
 lighted their pipes, and enjoyed an unobstructed view of the sur- 
 roundings. 
 
 We started upon our tour of elevation about nine o'clock in 
 the morning. Cold type could never do justice in properly describ- 
 ing the magnificent scenic beauty of the nine miles of road in 
 ascending Pike's Peak. The constantly changing panorama, the va- 
 ried tints and colors, which cannot be imitated upon canvas by the 
 most skillful masters, form a picture for the mind which can only 
 be drawn through the eye. 
 
 Engelmann's Canyon, formed by the sides of Manitou and 
 Hiawatha Mountains, is the starting point of this novel railway. 
 Rushing swiftly through the canyon, and flowing beside us, then 
 appearing far below over massive boulders and forming innumerable 
 cascades, is Ruxton Creek ; a sparkling mountain stream whose source 
 lies in the snow that crowns the mountain top. 
 
 Passing into the canyon to the left, we came upon Shady Springs, 
 hidden under the slope of the mountain upon which rest Gog and 
 Magog. To the right is the "Lone Fisherman," who patiently 
 fishes from the top of the northern wall of the canyon. As we en- 
 ter the Grand Pass, we catch a glimpse of Echo Falls, named after 
 Echo Rocks, above whose high walls resound the dashing waters of 
 the canyons, clearly and distinctly. Just beyond, we can observe 
 National Creek tunnel, an arched waterway formed by fallen boulders. 
 "Hanging Rock" and Frog Rock" are passed before we enter "Ar- 
 
PIKE'S PEAK REGION. 
 
 I Cog Road on Pike's Peak. 2-8-14 Pike's Peak from Colorado Springs. 3-6 Ascending Pike's Peak. 4 Above 
 the Half-way House, Pike's Peak. 5 Primrose. 7 Around the Corner. 9 Spring Opening of Pike's Peak Cog-wheel 
 Road. 10 White Poppy. n Mariposo Lilly. 12 Half-way House. 13 Windy Point, Pike's Peak. 15 Pike's 
 Peak from Pilot Knob. 16 Phantom Curve. 17 Vista of Pike's Peak. 18 Cog Road Station, Manitou. 19 Cog 
 Road Locomotive. 20 The Trail. 21 Past Timber Line. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 35 
 
 tists' Glen," from where a good view of "Cameron's Cone" (10,695 
 feet) and the Garden of the Gods may be had. 
 
 Curious shaped rocks stand out in bold relief from the moun- 
 tain sides. They have been christened with names appropriate to 
 their conformation. The "Plum Pudding," "Turtle," and "Punch," 
 are some that we passed in our ride until we came within vision of 
 Minnehaha Falls. 
 
 At this point, about two miles from the starting place, the steep 
 mountain slopes begin to rise to their greatest magnitudes. Man 
 becomes dwarfed in the sublimity of the scene. The specks that 
 indicate villages below, the rivers in the valleys which look like 
 slender threads, the overhanging clouds which seem so near, and the 
 massive, majestic, arrogant monuments of stone which spring up 
 on every side, leave the spectator in full realization of his own in- 
 significance and a fuller appreciation of the marvels of nature than 
 he has ever before enjoyed. , 
 
 A few hundred feet further and one again stands face to face 
 with civilization in the form of a group of Swiss cottages occupied 
 by pleasure seekers. "Lizzard Rock," "Pinnacle Rock," "The Devil's 
 Slide," "Woodland Park," "Elk's Head," and the "Flueride Gold 
 Mine," are passed as we suddenly come upon the Half-Way House, 
 a comfortable little hotel situated in a beautiful grove at the foot of 
 "Grand View Rock," three and one-half miles from Manitou. This 
 is a popular stopping place for parties ascending the peak, and to 
 rest, to observe, and to wonder. 
 
 As we again proceeded, we passed through the ragged walls of 
 "Hell's Gate" and entered the verdant Ruxton and Aspen Parks, 
 over which stand Bald and Sheep Mountains. Then for little more 
 than two miles we traveled over a comparatively level stretch, get- 
 ting an excellent view of "Grand Old Mountain." Here our locomo- 
 tive makes a short stop to replenish its supply of water, for the 
 longest and steepest incline on the road is just ahead. The grade 
 is straight up the side of the mountain at an angle similar to that 
 formed by a ladder placed against the side of a house. It is so sharp 
 that one dare not look at it long in realization that it is to be as- 
 cended. 
 
 As we ascend, the mountains to the east seem to sink until they 
 appear as mere foot-hills and the valleys and rocks beneath become 
 more extended in view. From the well-named "Inspiration Point," 
 we see far below a glacial lake of 110 acres ; and glacial rocks 
 marked by the action of ice in ages past; Mt. Baldy; Mt. Garfield; 
 Bear Creek Canyon and the Southern Mountains. 
 
 After passing "Timber Line," which has an elevation of 11,578 
 feet, we cross a great field of broken rock, spotted here and there 
 
36 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 with soil enough to bear moss and various Alpine plants, and where, 
 in certain seasons, there grow a profusion of small flowers which 
 one would hardly expect to find at so high an altitude. 
 
 At this point a lady, a stranger, passed through the car with 
 a small basket on her arm, offering flowers for sale. The bouquets 
 had a rare fragrance, especially when they were moist. She called 
 them "wild forget-me-nots" and claimed to have plucked them from 
 the mountain side amid snow and rocks. She was pleasant and 
 talkative, relating an interesting story. In answer to a question put 
 by Sir Burry, who seemed deeply interested, the stranger declared 
 that she was married. 
 
 As we reached Windy Point we caught the first glimpse of the 
 far west, as it rolls itself out from the Rocky Mountains to the 
 shores of the Pacific. With renewed effort, the little engine plowed 
 its way up still sharper inclines until, a short time later, we reached 
 the very summit of Pike's Peak, and triumphantly took our stand 
 upon the very head of the majestic monster. 
 
 The whole world seemed before us ! Villages, towns, cities, hills, 
 valleys, rivers, lakes, and even mountains and clouds found place 
 in the picture which was spread out before us. Rare, indeed, would 
 be the art that could picture to the soul the unapproachable magni- 
 tude of the view, unaided by the sense of sight. A mighty panorama 
 of 60,000 square miles was accessible to the human eye. 
 
 To the east, the buffalo plains are ribbed with streams and dot- 
 ted with flowering fields, while villages and cities mark their bor- 
 ders. Colorado Springs, Manitou and the Garden of the Gods lie at 
 our feet like diminutive checker-boards spread out among fields of 
 flowers and foliage. 
 
 To the south lie Seven Lakes; the Raton Mountain range of 
 New Mexico; the famous Spanish Peaks, and the cities of Pueblo, 
 Florence, Canon City and Altman (the highest mining camp in 
 Colorado), and in the far distance, the fertile Arkansas Valley winds 
 itself among the hills. Cripple Creek and Bull Hill appear but a 
 stone's throw, while the many mine settlements and web of rail- 
 ways are plainly and clearly seen. 
 
 To the west is the Sangre de Christo range protruding its glisten- 
 ing crests above the clouds and spreading out its sheet of perpetual 
 snow. Buffalo, Ouray, Harvard, Yale, Princeton, Holy Cross and 
 Elbert Peaks proudly raise their heads at a distance varying from 
 60 to 150 miles away. To the north are visible the abyss ; Gray's 
 and Long's peaks the farthest north of any we saw in the Conti- 
 nental Divide; and Denver, Castle Rock and Manitou Park. 
 
 As the wayfarer takes his stand on the crest of Pike's Peak and 
 beholds the handiwork of the Master before him, a respect born of 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 37 
 
 reverence saturates the soul. Word nor picture has never, and can 
 never, convey to the human mind such full appreciation of the system- 
 atic provisions of nature to the dwellers of the earth, as are made 
 known to him who stands upon the sublime heights of Pike's Peak, 
 and sees and realizes the handiwork of God which man has worked 
 into his own benefaction. Cold type or words fail to carry such 
 impressing influences as the Creator's own achievement through na- 
 ture, as it lies like the open pages of history, at the very feet of the 
 pilgrim on the heights of Pike's Peak. 
 
 As we stood upon the very apex of this mountain emperor, we 
 beheld a vast portion of this little world in unique circumstantiality 
 of detail saw it as the bird sees it and all reduced to the smallest 
 scale, but as sharply worked out and finished as a steel engraving. 
 The numerous toy cities with their tiny spires projecting, appeared 
 as the playthings of children who had abandoned them for a day. 
 The forest tracts were diminished and softened by distance as cush- 
 ions of moss, while the rivers shone and glistened under the sun's 
 rays until they appeared as strings of pearl. The smaller bodies of 
 water relieved the general conformation with the beauty of a blue 
 teardrop which had fallen and lodged in some slight depression 
 among the moss-beds. The diminutive trains were seen gliding 
 along between cities, seemingly taking a mighty time to travel the 
 distance, for magnificent distances appeared as but yards, and it 
 looked as though one might span what was 100 miles with the out- 
 stretched arms. 
 
 The world beneath us was stretched out like an enormous "re- 
 lief map" with hills, valleys, forests and streams pictured in their 
 miniature and natural color. This was the picture we saw stretched 
 out before us. Distance softened it; the sun glorified it; strong 
 contrasts heightened the effect, and over and above it all, a drowsing 
 air of repose spiritualized it and likened it unto a beautiful estray 
 from the other and more mysterious worlds we visit in dreams. 
 
 The cares and responsibilities of this life make it the privilege 
 of but a few of the great human family to know the sensation of 
 looking from a mountain top over thousands of miles of the earth's 
 domains. To those who can enjoy this feast of vision, it inscribes 
 an indelible recollection upon the mind, and the magnificence ot the 
 spectacle leaves a lasting impression that will never fade from mem- 
 ory. In the ages gone, and those to come, the revelations from the 
 heights of Pike's Peak, will remain among one of the sacred prrvileges 
 of man, and of those that may come and go, none will ever carry 
 away a more gracious appreciation than did the pilgrims of our party. 
 
 One might suppose that to be carried literally out of the world 
 to the heights of Pike's Peak would be foregoing, for a time, all the 
 
38 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 conventionalities of the earth. But this is not true. American en- 
 terprise will not be thwarted, and by turning about from the grand- 
 eurs that lie beneath, one finds conventionalities upon the peik that 
 become unconventional because of their peculiar surroundings. On 
 the top of the peak is a postofnce the highest in the world. Here 
 members of our party hastily jotted a few lines to relatives and 
 friends that they might experience the sensation of receiving a 
 message from the clouds, and note the post-mark of "Summit, Pike's 
 Peak, August 23, 1904." 
 
 On the mountain top there is a telegraph station, which also 
 has the distinction of being the "highest in the world." We patron- 
 ized the operator in sending greetings home. 
 
 The "Summit House" is like an oasis on a barren desert. Built 
 of ragged rock cleaved from the very peak itself, it offers within 
 the comfortable glow of a huge stove, while hot coffee and bulky 
 doughnuts touch the heart of the wayfarer through his stomach. 
 
 Terrific winds sweep the summit, and although thermometers 
 registered 90 degrees at Manitou before we started, it was very cold 
 on the peak. "Vic" had previously cautioned us to take an ample 
 supply of wraps and overcoats before ascending, and we found this 
 advice of value. The barometer on the summit stands about 17 inches 
 while water boils at 184 degrees Fahrenheit. These grossly abnormal 
 conditions cast a strange, faint and weak sensation over the pilgrims 
 for a time; although there were very few who actually felt ill. The 
 ladies were particularly brave in facing the new elements. 
 
 An amusing and most unusual pastime for an August day was a 
 snowball warfare among the pilgrims on the summit of the peak, 
 after leaving Manitou under a boiling sun several hours before. 
 Through the mantle of snow on the mountain top, protruded a sea 
 of ragged rocks covering the whole summit as if created by a series 
 of blasts. As we stood on the summit in bold defiance of the raging 
 winds, we became enveloped from time to time, by the shifting fleecy 
 clouds. Standing as near to the sun as mortal dare tread in this 
 country, we were at once in close communion with the swiftly but 
 silently shifting clouds, which at times veiled the view in transitory 
 mist and then wafted high above and sped ever onward. 
 
 Protruding into these very clouds, rises the United States Sig- 
 nal Station from the very apex of the peak. This is, of course, the 
 highest observatory in the country; and the roof, which is platformed 
 and protected by railings, affords a wonderful view-point. Regard- 
 less of the terrific winds, the pilgrims would not be denied the privi- 
 lege of surveying mother earth from this pinnacle. 
 
 It would even be difficult for imagination to concede that any- 
 thing mortal could add dignity or impressiveness to Pike's Peak, 
 
PIKE'S PEAK REGION. 
 
 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-14 Summit of Pike's Peak, altitude 14, 147 feet. 9 Columbine. ic 
 Triangle Cryptic Rite Masons, Summit of Pike's Peak. 13 Mamma's Baby. 
 
 Yucca, ri Anemone. 12 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 39 
 
 but none can gainsay the dramatic and romantic effect of the sil- 
 houette of Sir Oscar Schulze as he stood in bold contrast to the fleecy 
 clouds behind him, when he took his position on the top of the 
 signal station. Oscar, who had been at once a father and brother 
 to the pilgrims, in all that the terms imply, is a man of soldierly 
 bearing. Clad in a heavy military ulster with flowing cape, he as- 
 cended to the top of the signal station with several pilgrims. As 
 he gazed upon the endless view stretched out before him, he point- 
 ed in dramatic fashion to some object of interest in the valley, with 
 the attitude of a general noting some military movement on the 
 battle field. As his cape and ulster-clad soldierly figure stood out 
 in bold relief against the clouds and skies, it appeared as if Na- 
 poleon had risen again, and forgetful of St. Helena, was once more 
 a leader of men, in supreme authority. 
 
 Even as we gazed, we unfurled our banner, the Stars and Stripes, 
 to the breeze with a rousing cheer that was born from patriotic hearts. 
 The indifference shown the nation's flag on terra firma is lost when 
 one enters strange and unusual places, and we paid homage to our 
 colors with uplifted voices while the thrill of true American patriot- 
 ism shook our physical frames like aspens in the wind, and inspired 
 our souls with loyal love for our country. 
 
 We found special pride as we stood upon the summit of the 
 mount, in the fact that the first party who ever ascended Pike's Peak 
 were Pittsburghers. In 1819, Major S. H. Long was sent by Secre- 
 tary of War, John C. Calhoun, in charge of an "expedition from Pitts- 
 burgh to the Rocky Mountains." On July 13th, of that year, the 
 party encamped near the present site of Colorado Springs, from 
 which place Dr. Edwin James, with three unknown men and a 
 volunteer named Harris, started to ascend. The summit was reached 
 on the evening of July 14th. The first woman to stand on the sum- 
 mit, was Mrs. James H. Holmes, who reached the top on August 
 5th, 1858. The Peak derives its name from General Zebulon Pike, 
 who discovered the noble mountain while leading an exploration 
 expedition in November 1806. 
 
 When the time for our departure arrived, we cast a last long- 
 ing glance over the horizon, in full realization of the fact that we 
 had witnessed the grandest scenic panorama visible from any ac- 
 cessible point. With a parting look, the picture was indelibly in- 
 scribed upon our minds with an appreciation that the years cannot 
 wipe out. 
 
 We entered the car with complete freedom from the fears we 
 had entertained upon the ascent. As the train started down the 
 sharp incline there was havoc among the party. Many uncon- 
 sciously threw their weight to the rear in an effort to retain equi- 
 
40 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 librium. This, of course, was of little avail. Memories of sliding 
 down banisters in childhood, were vividly brought back to mind, 
 but the physique could not accommodate itself to these conditions 
 so well as in the early days. 
 
 Occasionally, a few acres of almost level road afforded us a few 
 moments of comfortable breathing, but in a moment we would turn 
 a corner and see a long steep line of rail stretching down below us, 
 and the comfort was at an end. The locomotive knew no fear, and 
 never paused or slackened its speed upon approaching these sharp 
 descents, but kept calmly and relentlessly to its task, made a sud- 
 den bow, and went smoothly gliding downstairs. 
 
 It was wildly exhilarating to slide along the edge of the precipices 
 and look straight down into the far-reaching valleys. There was 
 much curiosity to learn how the train would stop at the station 
 upon the steep incline. We were anxious to learn the method em- 
 ployed. The solution lacked every element of mysteriousness. The 
 train simply stopped. That was all there was to it. Then it moved 
 on in the even tenor of its way, and went sliding down again. 
 
 Here and there we caught a glimpse of the "trail" in our descent. 
 Upon it we saw men on horseback, burroback and afoot. There is 
 an incentive and charm in going up, ever up, toward the goal. Those 
 on foot are armed with a stout staff taking their time, and choosing 
 their own fanciful route. There can be no more profitable recrea- 
 tion than the glorification of conquering Pike's Peak, and few pleas- 
 ures can be compared with that of the tourist who stands upon the 
 top of the mountain monarch. 
 
 A<n unusual incident which the passenger enjoys in the descent 
 from the peak, is an optical delusion. Trees, houses, shrubbery 
 and every standing object seem to have fallen into oblique position. 
 All appear to be standing awry, so much so, that the cottages ap- 
 pear to be on the verge of complete collapse. 
 
 Gradually we acquired absolute confidence in the locomotive 
 and relaxed our physical efforts to hold it back. The "boys" on the 
 platform lighted their pipes again with every assurance of security, 
 and again lapsed into the jubilant and care-begone spirit which marked 
 our pilgrimage from start to finish. As we descended gradually 
 but surely, the whole world seemed to flit by with us upon the in- 
 spection stand, inspecting the world on the wing. There was not 
 a breeze or gust of dust to interfere with our vision. We drank in 
 the moving picture with uninterrupted thought even Sir Gilchrist 
 forgot for a time the "girl he left behind." 
 
 During one of the stops a lady boarded the train and cried out 
 the announcement that she had the "Pike's Peak Daily News" for 
 sale. This is a paper published on the summit, and calls itself the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 41 
 
 "most elevated" publication on earth. It gives evidence of the lofty 
 strides of journalism. It contained in brief, the following: 
 
 Pike's Peak Dally 
 
 PUBLISHED DAILY ON PIKE'S PEAK. 
 Altitude, 14.147 feet. 
 
 The most "elevated" publication on Earth. 
 
 O'jntains daily the names of every arrival on 
 the Summit. The official newspaper of the 
 M. A P. P. Railroad. 
 
 C. E. TSCHUDI, Publisher 
 Postoflice Address : Maniton, Colorado. 
 
 VOLUME 8. i : NUMBER 285 
 
 TUESDAY, AUGUST 23, 1904. 
 AKR1VAL.8 ON PIKE'S PEAK 
 
 The following distinguished ladies and gentle- 
 men registered on top of sight-seeing old 
 Pike's Peak today, via th* picturesque hod 
 soenic Cog Wheel Eouto: 
 
 Foronoou arrivals on the Summit : 
 FIRST SECTION. 
 
 This is a special of Commandery No. 35, K. T.. 
 Allegheny City, Pa., en route to the coast, tray" 
 ling in their own special Pullmans, with com" 
 niissary and all the conveniences and luxuries 
 of life. The jolliest and most representative 
 crowd of Americans that has ascended the Peak 
 iu a thousand years. Here they are: 
 Hiss Gustie L Hilleric 1 
 
 With a relentless puff puff puff the engine continues its de- 
 scent, grasping the cogs to retard its flight. "Jack" was of the opin- 
 ion that the tracks had been recently oiled, and that they would 
 serve as an excellent lightning rod to the summit of Pike's Peak. 
 Before reaching Manitou we crossed a bridge whose framework 
 stretched over a gorge and shot across the dizzy air like a stray 
 spider-web strand. One has little difficulty in enumerating his sins 
 while the train creeps down this bridge, and repentance is general. 
 Even the young lady who dropped a snowball down the back of 
 the writer's neck plead guilty and asked for mercy. 
 
 Upon arriving at our destination, we sought the Iron Springs 
 Hotel where we indulged with a vim in a satisfying luncheon while 
 we rehearsed our experiences of the morning. In the midst of a 
 general conversation, some one was heard to remark to Sir John 
 Bader: "John, you act as though you were starving!" 
 
42 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 "Act!" he repeated in tones of astonishment. "Don't you know 
 the difference between acting and the real thing?" It was the genuine 
 article of appetite in large consignments, with all of us. 
 
 After luncheon we strolled about the hotel grounds viewing the 
 flowers, shrubbery, and an enchanting bit of landscape gardening. 
 The guests of the hotel soon became acquainted with our party, 
 after first taking a few shots at us with their cameras. Finally, as 
 a compromise, we gathered in a group upon the lawn, and had a 
 picture taken "collectively." Previously we had been "taken " as 
 individuals, walking, talking, standing, running, and in all manner 
 of unconventional poses. One might believe that the amateur photog- 
 raphers considered us some rare specie of the mountain tribes. 
 
 The hotel proprietor was most agreeable. He invited several 
 of the Sir Knights into the secret confines of his private apart- 
 ments where he proved himself an attentive host. 
 
 Tallyhos and carriages were in waiting and soon we were ready 
 for a drive through the "Garden of the Gods." The guests of the 
 hostelry gathered on the lawn and veranda and waved their handker- 
 chiefs and cheered us until we had driven out of sight. 
 
 As we rattled along cheerily, the ladies viewed the beautiful sur- 
 rounding country from beneath their parasols, which only partially 
 shielded them from the blazing sun. The driver beguiled the way 
 with amusing and instructive conversation until we arrived at the 
 gateway of the "Garden of the Gods." It consists of two enormous 
 masses of red sandstone, 330 feet high. Between them was a small- 
 er rock which divides the passageway in two. The rock to the 
 right resembles a huge camel in kneeling position. 
 
 Behind the rock, a magnificent panorama unfolds itself, while 
 immediately through the "Gate," Pike's Peak is seen rising in majes- 
 tic grandeur. Much of the charm of the scene is due to the numerous 
 contrasts of color. We passed through the "Gateway," and entered 
 the valley of wonders. 
 
 In a strange, wierd solitude, nature has perpetuated peculiar 
 freaks of sculpture and feats of architecture. Quaint and grotesque 
 suggestions of living forms (some of which have received appro- 
 priate designations) rose from out of the rocks about us. Perhaps 
 the giants of old had used the garden for their playground, and left 
 their toys behind when the angels came and christened it the "Garden 
 of the Gods." 
 
 In our tour of inspection, we arrive before the famous "Balanced 
 Rock." It stands upon the summit of a ridge some 50 feet above the 
 surrounding country. The rock itself is about 70 feet high and 
 weighs, approximately, 500 tons. This gigantic mass of rock is 
 cunningly balanced, though slightly tilted upon a mere point, and 
 
GARDEN OF THE GODS. 
 
 i Gateway, Garden of the Gods (Pike's Peak seen through the Gate). 2 The Three Graces. 3 Cathedral 
 Spires. 4 Bear and Seal (Rock formation). 5 Rainbow Falls. 6. Major Dome (200 feet high). 7 
 Manitou, Col. 8 Balanced Rock. 9 Garden of the Gods. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 43 
 
 has remained in such position for centuries. The surface in contact 
 with the under rock is very small and the strength of a mere man 
 applied to the under edge is sufficient to change its center of gravity. 
 
 As soon as the astonishment which this phenomenon cast over us 
 had abated we anxiously inquired how and whence the stone origi- 
 nated. Was it elevated to its unique position by human hands? 
 Was it the agency of nature that set it upon its frail and slender 
 pivot? From our experience in viewing mountain masses with geo- 
 logical eyes, we readily discovered that the only chisel ever employed 
 upon the balanced rock was the tooth of time, and the elements the 
 only workmen. 
 
 Pursuing our route, we come face to face with the "Cathedral 
 Spires" high and interesting columns of red sandstone, attain- 
 ing an elevation of 200 feet. They greatly resemble in shape church 
 spires and compose one of the chief attractions in the "Garden of the 
 Gods." 
 
 The "Three Graces" are also of great interest to the wanderer 
 in the garden. They consist of three broad, flat slabs and appear 
 to have been turned edgeways by some prehistoric upheaval. Odd 
 and curiously-shaped creations of stone spring out of the ground 
 on all sides. Each has a designation peculiar to its formation. The 
 "Statue of Liberty," "Dolphin," "Lion," "Griffin," "Bear and Seal," 
 "Kissing Camels," "Toad," "Toad Stools," "Greyhound's Head," 
 "Old Man's Wine Cellar," "Sea Lion," "Washerwoman," "Punch and 
 Judy," "Nun," "Scotchman," and many other oddly named monu- 
 ments of time give outline to figures after which they have been named. 
 
 At the top of the pass we turn out and away from the "Garden 
 of the Gods." The train of carriages plodded on in its slow way, 
 and we looked back with a sigh of farewell as we observed the colossal 
 and forever-open "Gateway" disappearing in the rear. We half fan- 
 cied that the veiled "Statue of Liberty" bowed her head in the sun- 
 shine and the ''Sea Lion" howled a parting salute as we drove out of 
 sight. We had no sea lions aboard to return the salute, but ever 
 anxious to relieve any contingency Sir Beckert brought forth a bugle 
 and sounded a farewell that could leave no doubt but that the stone 
 figures in the garden turned stone deaf. 
 
 Arriving at Colorado Springs station, several members of the 
 party decided to continue the drive to the North and South Cheyenne 
 Canyon and the Seven Falls, located five miles out of Colorado 
 Springs. Those who made the trip were amply repaid. The North 
 Cheyenne Canyon shelters numerous cascades, wonderful rock for- 
 mations and innumerable striking and impressive creations. 
 
 The South Cheyenne Canyon was admitted to be the most beau- 
 
44 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 tiful and inspiring resort near nature's own heart. We found our 
 inspection delightful, romantic and most satisfying. 
 
 Continuing, we arrived at a point where towering masses of rock 
 1200 feet in height swung out before us on the one side, while the tur- 
 bulent mountain stream winds its way through the canyon on the 
 other. The scene is picturesque, and the blending colors that coat 
 the mountain side and canyon lend grandeur. 
 
 Pursuing our course we reach the "Pillar of Hercules." They 
 consist of two massive rocks, upwards of 300 feet in height which 
 stand side by side near the entrance to the "Seven Falls," as senti- 
 nals guarding the approach. 
 
 Rounding a magnificent curve, we suddenly came upon a beauti- 
 ful cascade, falling in all 234 feet in seven leaps. We ascended a lofty 
 stairway at the side of the falls, and at the top find the waters leap- 
 ing and bursting over the rapids, as though conscious of the destiny 
 that awaits them. Gradually the waters wind through a cliff be- 
 tween lofty precipices and are hurled over a succession of falls. 
 
 The snow-made waters, in their mad leaps of beauty, laugh as 
 they have laughed for ages in sunlight and moonlight. On! On! 
 Ever on, they rush, leap after leap, as a fawn sprinting from rock to 
 rock. Spirits seem to dance upon the frothing foam of the many 
 cascades formed with infinite delicacy, .but great variety. As 
 the sparkling waters dash over the ragged rock pell-mell, the cas- 
 cades jostle and bruise one another until they disappear in vapor, in 
 foam, in uproar, and in clouds. 
 
 At the top of the stairway on the Cheyenne Mountains, is lo- 
 cated the grave of the authoress, Helen Hunt Jackson, who died in 
 1885. Everywhere about the trees and rocks visitors have left their 
 cards some dating back many years. 
 
 As we cautiously decended the stairway, we were overcome by 
 many sensations we were dazed, made dizzy, confused and charmed. 
 Arriving at the bottom we entered our carriage and as we sped away 
 we took a backward glimpse of the charming and unusual picture as 
 presented by the Seven Falls and the Cheyenne Canyons. 
 
 The route to our "home and camping ground" was gone over 
 in comparatively short time. However, on the way we stopped to 
 witness a remarkable and glorious sunset. Round the horizon ran 
 a thin mist with a brilliant depth of coloring. To the east, a blue 
 gauze seemed to cover the valley as it sank into night, while the in- 
 tervening ridges rose with increasing distinctness. 
 
 The valley itself was flooded with an exquisitely delicate light. 
 A few fleecy clouds tinted in gold, pale salmon and sapphire, passed 
 rapidly over the empurpled mountain range. The great shadow of 
 Pike's Peak spread itself, cone-like, across the valley ; the blue mists 
 
COLORADO SPRINGS' BEAUTY SPOTS. 
 
 I Stratton Park, Cheyenne Canyon. 2 South Cheyenne Canyon. 3 Williams Canyon. 4-5 Ute Pass 
 and Rainbow Falls. 6 Cripple Creek. 7 Soda Springs. 8 Black Crags, Ute Pass. 9 Seven Palls. 10 
 Denver, Col. u Iron Springs. 12 Hell Gate, Hagerman Pass. 13 Pillars of Hercules. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 45 
 
 were quenched; the distant mountains glowed like fairy hills for a 
 few moments, and the sun poising itself like a great globe of fire in 
 the darkening heavens, descended slowly below the golden ridge to 
 illuminate another hemisphere. 
 
 At the conclusion of dinner that evening a portion of the "fam- 
 ily" remained at "home" while several members of the younger ele- 
 ment continued their tour of sight-seeing as well as possible by lamp- 
 light, or under the glare of the moon. 
 
 One incident, particularly worthy of mention, was brought to 
 light by the discovery that Sir Knights Burry, Sample, Baumann, 
 Greenawalt and Gilchrist, had disappeared. Not to be economical 
 with the truth, it must be said that we were in a quandary as to what 
 had become of them. A moment of relaxation a concentration of 
 thought, and the secret dawned upon us! It was remembered how 
 interested this quintette was in those happy-spirited girls at the 
 Iron Springs Hotel, where we had lunched during the day. It was 
 also remembered by a few who were within hearing distance, that 
 the same ladies had invited the runaways over for dinner, and had 
 given the assurance that they would take it upon themselves to in- 
 sure the "boys" a cordial reception. After dinner the five couples 
 were to attend a dance in or about Colorado Springs. This ar- 
 rangement, it was remembered, was agreed upon, and so the mys- 
 tery was solved. 
 
 No wonder then that the lost sheep had "togged" themselves in 
 their "very best" and had neatly shaven before they strayed from the 
 fold. Burry, however, insisted upon clinging to his striped sweater, 
 which resembled the American flag he was a picturesque object as 
 a cotillion leader. The injunction that was issued, and the conversa- 
 tion that transpired before they left was also remembered. "Burry," 
 they said, "now listen. You are about to go among a brilliant as- 
 semblage of ladies, refined, cultured and thoroughly accomplished in 
 the manners and customs of deportment in good society. Now Burry, 
 be polite and obliging, and consider our opinion. If you want to 
 command the just respect of the ladies for in that make-up you 
 can never win their friendly regard your costume should only be 
 such as is becoming your mother's drawing-room!" 
 
 Burry stood placidly contemplating. Then he remarked, smil- 
 ingly: "Nope! No change! I'd rather be a living coward than a 
 dead hero!" 
 
 So they called upon the maidens. It was 11 o'clock when they 
 returned. They hadn't danced! They hadn't even dined! The 
 girls had issued a proclamation that they would not attend the dance 
 unless chaperoned by an aunt a maiden lady of about 64 summers. 
 The "boys" "reneiged" at this proposition. During the discussion 
 
46 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 of this point of contention, the ladies entirely overlooked their 
 proposition to serve dinner, and the boys didn't care to mention 
 the oversight in the face of the first disappointment. 
 
 It was a concentrated raid that the wayfarers made upon the 
 commissary car upon their return. It was amusing to behold the 
 starving pilgrims. Driven by hunger, they munched watermelon to 
 the very outer edge, and never paused for an instant to inspect the 
 sandwiches, to determine whether or not their contents were suf- 
 ficiently lean ; but with one in each hand, and a stack within reaching 
 distance, they kept busily at their tasks, unmindful of an enthusi- 
 astic and much amused audience. 
 
 The day closed with its characterization of momentous events 
 and memories. There was not an individual in the party whose 
 brain did not teem with thoughts and images, scenes and memories, 
 invoked by the history of the day and of the venerable scenes that 
 lay before us. 
 
 But among us all, there was no "voice of them that wept." Tears 
 would have been out of place. The thoughts of what we had seen 
 were filled with poetry, sublimity, and more than all dignity. 
 Wheresoever we had gone during the day, we were met by the 
 kindest attention. 
 
 The hour is late, a breeze so soft and yet so invigorating, touched 
 the cheek like a kind, familiar hand ; it seemed to whisper sweetly 
 to the ear: ''The morrow will be fairer than this, come, come," it 
 beckons, "Take a final glimpse of the surroundings." Behold! Na- 
 ture sleeps, breathlessly silently; perhaps she was dreaming of 
 the spirit world that seems to draw so close to her on such a g-o-o-d 
 n-i-g-h-t. 
 
 One or two of our companions who have been accused of being implicated in the 
 above incident, claim they were not among those who called upon the ladies. Should 
 this be so, they need offer no apology ; s far as the incident is concerned ; but inasmuch as 
 they came home the same time as the guilty parties, displayed the same ravenous appetite, 
 and offered no satisfactory account for their late arrival, they have not been entirely ex- 
 onerated, and the circumstantial evidence remains unshaken. 
 
47 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 E awoke early and refreshed on the morn which our calendars 
 told us was Wednesday, August 24. All were ready to ap- 
 preciate anew the wonders about us and the prospect of view- 
 ing such additional scenic grandeurs that time would permit, 
 for minutes had value and we were scheduled to depart at 10:30 
 o'clock. 
 
 Several of the pilgrims drove to the Canyons and the Seven 
 Falls; to Palmer Park and the Cheyenne Mountains. Others took 
 a trip over "The Short Line," America's famous Mountain High- 
 way. It is a ride of forty-five miles from Colorado Springs to the 
 Cripple Creek Gold Camp, passing en route "Point Sublime," "St. 
 Peter's Dome," "Devil's Slide," "Cathedral Park" and one continuous 
 panorama of nature's most gorgeous mountain and canyon scenery. 
 To describe such beauty and grandeur of Nature's artistic triumph 
 would truly bankrupt the English language. Circle the globe, if 
 you must, it will repay the time and expense. The mass of richly 
 colored rock torn by the tempests of a thousand years rear their 
 heads in all manner of fantastic shapes, brushing each other in wild 
 disorder. The road starts where the beauty begins and chooses the 
 loveliest spots as its pathway, over the mountains, circling around 
 the tops of canyons, presenting Nature's handiwork with a bewilder- 
 ing magnificence. In the care of Mr. D. C. MacWatters, that whole- 
 souled happy comrade (by the way a Pittsburgh boy) the trip was 
 made doubly a pleasure. 
 
 We visited the Broadmoor Casino; Ruxton and Williams Can- 
 yons and Ute Pass; Glen Eyril; the Seven Lakes; Bruin Inn; the 
 Smelters; Monument Park and the great variety of scenic wonders 
 for which Colorado Springs is noted. With the Rocky Mountains, 
 which are tributary to it, Colorado Springs contains within its bor- 
 ders a greater number and variety of wonderful scenic creations than 
 can be found in any other equal area in the world. 
 
 We concluded our sight-seeing expedition of the morning by 
 making a tour of the business section of Colorado Springs. The 
 ladies, of course, called on the department stores and scrutinized and 
 criticised the fashions and modes (some were ancient, they said) 
 and purchased a parasol, a fan or some other souvenir which met 
 their fancy. A hurried raid was made into some of the shops for 
 
48 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 musical (?) instruments to replace such as were demolished in the 
 raid on board the train sometime previous. 
 
 The city of Colorado Springs is pleasantly laid out with wide, 
 tree-shaded streets, like a New England village spread broadly at the 
 base of Pike's Peak. Here dwell great numbers of people who are 
 physically unable to stand the rigors of the climate along the At- 
 lantic coast. It is a veritable Eden for invalids. They come to 
 regain the lost angel of health and seldom seek again unless they 
 come too late. Many live here who could survive nowhere else. 
 They long to return to their far-off homes ; but home to them means 
 death. The Colorado air sustains them ; elsewhere they die. They 
 long some of them for the snowy winters and flowery summers 
 of their eastern homes. Others settle happily and contentedly in the 
 endless sunshine of winterless, summerless Colorado. 
 
 The city proper was first settled in 1871, but as the name er- 
 roneously suggests, there are no springs nearer than Manitou. The 
 climate of Colorado Springs is charming, so different from that of 
 nearly every other region of the world in its sunshine, dryness, free- 
 dom from fog, its altitude and its daily light winds, that it is of great 
 beneficial value for all human ailments. The advantages of the 
 climate have been a great factor in increasing the population. At 
 Colorado Springs the sun shines 304 days in the year in New York 
 but 263 days. The city has on one hand a magnificent mountain 
 view and on the other a limitless landscape across the prairie lands. 
 Here is located Colorado College and other public institutions and 
 the National Printers' Home, supported by printers throughout the 
 country. 
 
 The time for our departure was rapidly approaching. The party 
 grouped about the station. The engine was attached to the "special." 
 The engineer, a big good-souled fellow, was typical in his attire of 
 blue jacket and overalls a small cap which but partially covered 
 his large head, and a bandanna around his neck. Everything about 
 him was symbolic of his characteristics good-natured, happy fellow 
 he stood by his cab, hand resting on the rail, facing the rear, 
 awaiting orders and ready to ascend and pull open the throttle. 
 
 "A jolly party," he remarked, "What commandery did you say? 
 Oh yes! I am a member of Omaha Commandery. I received orders 
 to drive this "special" but I did not know who or what the party 
 was, but soon as I sees you well, well," he laughed, as his face 
 flushed, "I told Jack," (the fireman) "I am going to have a holiday 
 with this 'er party. Say Jack, give her plenty of oil and we'll have 
 smooth driving. I'd give my year's salary to be with you all the 
 way. Now look here, boys, you know what I'm going to do? I'll 
 blow the whistle and throw the throttle wide open at every station 
 
Courtesy Mr. D. C. Mac 
 
 SCENES ON THE C. S. & C. C. D. RY. (THE SHORT LINE). 
 
 i Around the Top of South Cheyenne Canyon. 2 Mountain view from Point Sublime. 3 Broadmoor and 
 Plains from Pt. Sublime. 4 Approaching Duffields. 5 The Short Line Penetrating the Rockies. 6 Three Eleva- 
 tions of Track. 7 Colorado Springs and Tunnel. 8 St. Peter's Dome. 9 Rock Creek Castles. 10 The Short 
 Line in Cheyenne Canyons. 1 1 Cathedral Rocks. 12 Rounding the Devil's Slide. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 49 
 
 and the inhabitants will wonder what happened. I just tell you it 
 will be no Mormon pilgrimage crossing this 'ere state!" 
 
 This same engineer sat in his cab, head propped out of the 
 window, wearing one of the Allegheny commandery's fatigue caps 
 all the way. Yes, he was one of us, a worthy addition to the happy 
 family; and for several reasons he will always remember the meet- 
 ing. 
 
 This engineer was merely a specimen of the pleasing good-na- 
 tured manhood among the employees of the various railroads over 
 which we traveled. 
 
 "Say, Wood-ze, how soon?" was asked. "Ten minutes," replied 
 the obliging Pullman conductor who had entered so deeply into 
 our affections that the formal identity of "Mr. Woods" had long 
 since been supplanted by the more familiar term. 
 
 A few moments were left in which to take a long memorable 
 look at Pike's Peak. There was something subduing in the influence 
 of that silent, solemn and awful presence. One seemed in the very 
 presence of the indestructible and eternal and to appreciate the trivial 
 and fleeting nature of one's own existence. The contrast seemed sharp. 
 The spirit of the great rock has looked down, through the slow 
 drift of the ages upon millions of men of many races and judged them 
 as it will judge a million more, and shall still stand dauntlessly up- 
 on its throne, unchanged and ever watching, after life shall have 
 gone and the earth become a vacant desolation. What is the mys- 
 terious spell humanity finds about Pike's Peak that is absent from 
 the surrounding mountains? That strange, deep, nameless influence, 
 which once felt, cannot be forgotten and creates an insatiable de- 
 sire to experience it again. 
 
 Probably moved by this strong influence, Sir Oscar Schulze, to 
 the great astonishment of all present, expressed his determination 
 to again ascend the summit of the peak. This, of course, would have 
 been impossible, if he would accompany our party. So we pleaded 
 with him and exhausted every effort in prevailing upon him to defer 
 such an undertaking until some future time, but Oscar was persistent 
 and would not yield then, to the surprise of all, he demonstrated his 
 superb idea. 
 
 At the station stood an immense telescope. He approached the 
 telescopist and announced that he desired to make an ascent to 
 the summit and inquired if there was any danger. "No," replied 
 the telescopist, "not by telescope." He concluded by adding that 
 he had taken a great many parties to the summit that way and 
 "never lost a man." Oscar then announced that he would start im- 
 mediately. His determination was calmly expressed ; the dare and 
 spirit was upon him. As he had committed himself, he would not 
 
 (4) 
 
50 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 back down he would ascend the Peak if it cost him his life. He 
 told the man to slant his machine in the proper direction and he 
 was off. 
 
 Oscar invited one of our companions to go along but he was 
 afraid to risk the dangers of the trip. Oscar gave him fresh courage 
 by assuring him that he would hold his hand all the way. With 
 a perceptible tremble, our companion consented. 
 
 Taking a last pathetic look upon the summer scene about them, 
 they fixed their eyes to the glass and prepared to ascend to the sum- 
 mit of everlasting snow. The mountain-top was brilliant under the 
 glare of the sun and seemed hardly 1,000 yards away. Objects and 
 details on the very top were clearly discernible and with sharp dis- 
 tinctness they beheld a woman, but much to the regret of the ladies 
 in the party they were, unable to "describe her dress." They could 
 see her nod to the people about her and raise her hand to hold her 
 hat on, while she used the other hand to shield her eyes from the 
 sun. It seemed incredible that the woman was in reality so far away. 
 When they turned their eyes away from the instrument, everything 
 was vague and the mountain monster alone commanded the vision 
 of the eye. As our friend Oscar shouted a triumphant "Ah!" over 
 the impressive scene the telescope offered, a startled man at their 
 elbows cried: "All a-b-o-a-r-d !" 
 
 They jumped off the summit in an instant, for they preferred 
 to be with the happy family who were already aboard, rather than 
 to be orphaned upon the mountain-top. We bid the Peak a final 
 good-bye possibly for all time. How surely, at some future day, 
 when the memory of it shall have lost its vividness shall we half-be- 
 lieve that we have ever seen these many creative geniuses in a 
 wonderful dream rather than with waking eyes. 
 
 As our train started, it was difficult to determine whether the 
 engine or the Pittsburgh tobies smoked by the engineer and fireman 
 were casting back the greatest gusts of smoke. We whirled along 
 for an hour or more without any conflict among the "stag" coach 
 constituents, worth mentioning. It was a 24 hour ride to Salt Lake 
 City. However, the employments and amusements which were pre- 
 pared on an elaborate scale, whiled away the time merrily. There 
 was an endless strain of cheerful, chattering gossip which sounded 
 throughout each of the coaches. A little reading was indulged in and 
 much smoking and sewing, although not by the same parties. 
 
 In the "stag" coach a delightful, harmless game of euchre was 
 in progress, the most amusing feature of which was Burry's per- 
 sistency in calling upon "Kings and Queens" and never finding- 
 them at home. During the game it was proposed to hold a euchre 
 party on an elaborate scale, in the evening full dress, of course, 
 
THE CANYONS OF COLORADO. 
 
 I Black Canyon of the Gunnison (Showing the Currecanti Needle in Distance). 2 Clear Creek Canyon (The Hanging 
 Rock). 3 Platte Canyon. 4 Grand Canyon of the Arkansas ( The Royal Gorge). c, Grand Canyon cf the Arkansas (The 
 Royal Gorge and Suspended Bridge). 6 Canyon of the Grand River ( near Glenwood Springs showing the IV.irror ). 7 Can- 
 yon of the Grand River ( near Glenwood Springs showing Tunnel). 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 51 
 
 and Gilchrist took especial care to notify Burry that he could not 
 participate in the sweater that had seen service at a social function 
 at Manitou. Gilchrist laid great emphasis upon the fact that the glar- 
 ing striped design of the sweater might lead the residents along. the 
 railway to believe that the "special" was a convict train, once they 
 gained sight of the garment. 
 
 Burry denied Gilchrist the right to bar the sweater because it 
 had already been "barred" by the designer, but he was out-voted 
 and promised to appear attired as a citizen at the promised social 
 eve.nt of the evening. 
 
 At the conclusion of the "stag" coach euchre game, Sir Seil- 
 ing took occasion to announce a most agreeable surprise in the shape 
 of a feast of melons. He had purchased several armsful at Colorado 
 Springs. "They were the real things," he said. "Knew they were 
 Rockyfords. Grew right in the neighborhood." Mouths were water- 
 ing as he declared his exclusive, professional knowledge of what a 
 respectable melon should be like. 
 
 Finally he brought forth the fruit and called for a knife. A 
 murmur of suppressed laughter came from several quarters, and Seil- 
 ing believing this to be an expression of appreciation of the delicacies 
 about to be offered, cut firmly and deeply. The first of the al- 
 leged melons fell apart. Then Seiling nearly fell apart. The ter- 
 rible truth dawned upon him. He had bought pumpkins for melons 
 his reputation was shattered ! Only when his invited guests prom- 
 ised to string the pumpkin seeds into a necklace for him as a token 
 of appreciation of his good intention, could his humiliation be eased. 
 
 As we sped onward, every mile disclosed new and wondrous 
 views. We sat in our quarters as spectators of a moving panorama. 
 The diversity of subjects was endless. The combinations of form and 
 color, of light and shadow, of foreground and distance, were con- 
 stantly changing. Skirting southward, we arrived at Pueblo. Here 
 Vulcan has fired his forges with red molten matter from mines of 
 gold, silver, lead, copper and iron. 
 
 The community is a center of western commerce ; they term it 
 the "Pittsburgh of the West." However, in our eyes, it resembled 
 our home city only in the clouds of smoke that overhang it. A 
 tinge of homesickness overcame us, but in a moment it was for- 
 gotten. 
 
 Canyon City is 41 miles westward and the journey to that city 
 is of the most interesting nature. Presently a new interest is aroused 
 when, four miles west, the road enters the Royal Gorge in the Grand 
 Canyon of the Arkansas. Perhaps nothing in the whole range of 
 the Rockies is more awe inspiring. It overpowers the beholder in 
 its effect. 
 
52 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 The canyon is formed by a mighty fissure in the living rock, 
 wrought by some stupendous upheaval in the ages of long ago. With 
 a base of about 50 feet in width, it widens out until the top spreads 
 open some 70 feet. The walls rise up a sheer 3,000 feet above the 
 level of the river that rushes by in its narrow bed. Walled in be- 
 tween these monster rocks, which are marble-like in their many hues, 
 it is little to be wondered at that the imagination is staggered with 
 the effort to comprehend the full sublimity of the scene. As one 
 gazes in silent awe at this miracle in rock, thoughts cannot linger 
 elsewhere. One sees, gradually realizes and then remembers! 
 
 The Gorge, smooth and unbroken by tree or shrub, rises into the 
 skies and leaps into enternity. Great engineering skill was displayed 
 in the laying of track in short and bold curves along the railway 
 route, which winds its way along the rushing stream at the base of 
 the mighty cliffs. The train moves slowly through the wondrous 
 gorge. The p-u-f-f, p-u-f-f, p-u-f-f of the engine was met with echoes 
 of great volume and it was impossible to count the astonishing clatter 
 of reverberations. The echoes were so long-continued and gave such 
 an indication of cordiality that they were enjoyed by everyone. 
 
 Out of the great canyon, and in sight of our "special," there arose 
 innumerable lofty, picturesque mountains, the summits of which 
 were covered with snow. The great encircling walls of rock and 
 snow contrasted grandly with the beauteous scenes beneath. The 
 snows had wonderful effect as we looked up to them from the moving 
 train. They flashed gloriously in the sunlight above the mists of the 
 valley; they had a rosy glow in the evening sunset and when the sun 
 had entirely departed and before darkness completely shrouded them, 
 they gleamed afar off with a cold and spectral light that made 
 them appear as possessions of a region over which man has never 
 trod. 
 
 The deep black gorges in the mountains look mysterious. Here 
 and there the sun lights up some little grassy ravine and then dis- 
 plays splintered rock rising in wild confusion. Often long lines of 
 white clouds lie among the mountain summits, while at other times 
 every peak and precipice wall is distinctly marked against the deep 
 blue sky. The valley is especially striking where it lies partly in 
 golden sunlight and partly within the shadows of its great hills. 
 
 The journey offers new scenic grandeurs almost continuously. 
 Innumerable objects of interest present themselves upon every hand. 
 A thousand novel impressions photograph themselves upon the minds 
 through the eyes' lens. At times one would imagine that nature 
 has reversed the elements and that skyland and earthland were trans- 
 posed and the world had turned topsy-turvy. 
 
 With two engines to draw the "special" we slowly plowed along. 
 
THE CANYONS OF COLORADO. 
 
 i Eagle River Canyon ( Between I.eadville and Glenwood Springs). 2 Boulder Canyon. 3 Los Pinos Canyon ( Toltec 
 Gorge, showing tram of cars entering tunnel). 4 Williams Canyon ( The Amphitheatre). 5 Uncompahgre Canyon (Ouray 
 and Silyerton Toll Road). 6 Box Canyon ( near Ouray ). 7 Grand Canyon of the Colorado. 8 Black Canyon of the Gunni- 
 son ( Side View, Showing the Currecanti Needle ). 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE" GOLDEN GATE 53 
 
 winding about and climbing the steep mountain grade for an hour or 
 two. Presently the locomotives seemed to take wings and appeared 
 to be leaping into the very clouds and ere we knew it, we were on the 
 top of the range of the mighty Rockies at an altitude of 10,200 feet. 
 Thus Salida and Malta were passed and Leadville reached the giant 
 baby city the youngest and most wonderful child of the prolific 
 west! Gaining world-famed reputation as a mining camp, Leadville 
 grew up like a mushroom, and it is one of the highest cities, in point 
 of altitude, in the world. 
 
 In the early days of Colorado, this was the great gold placer 
 mining camp of California Gulch. Afterwards it produced enormous 
 quantities of silver from the extensive carbonate beds discovered in 
 1876 and the population at once expanded to 30,000, while its name 
 was changed to Leadville. Of late, gold mining has again become 
 profitable, while the yield of silver, which at one time reached 
 $13,000,000 annually, has been much reduced owing to the decline in 
 value. Lead is also found in great quantities. 
 
 At Leadville some of our party left the train and purchased 
 specimens of ore from urchins about the station who traffic largely in 
 these souvenirs with passing tourists. By the way, who was it who 
 received the lead quarter in change during such a transaction, and 
 only became aware of it when it was too late to go back? However, 
 the coin was surely an appropriate memento of Leadville. Sir 
 William J. Staiger, in fatigue uniform, entered the station lunch-room 
 to buy a sandwich. When he inquired the price, the pleasant wait- 
 ress replied, "Five cents to railroad men." 
 
 A few miles northwest from the crest of Tennessee Pass, lies the 
 famous mountain of the Holy Cross, whose peak attains an altitude 
 of 14,200 feet. This snow-white banner of Christian faith has been 
 engraved by nature into the brown brow of the mountain, at its very 
 apex. The cross is formed by two transverse canyons of great depth 
 running down and across the mountain. Everlasting snow finds 
 repose in the bed of these ravines and marks the symbol of Chris- 
 tianity perfectly. It is a wondrous and most impressive sight to behold 
 this sign "set in the heavens." This great pure white cross, shining 
 high above all the turbulence of the earth, appears as a mute invita- 
 tion for faith, hope and charity for all mankind to look up to. Half- 
 way between earth and heaven, this cross of the Creator's making 
 seems as a link by which both spheres may be joined together. 
 
 Turning our faces to the setting sun, we continued our journey. 
 We found ourselves on the western slope of the Rocky Mountains, 
 where the Eagle River takes its rise, gathering volume and strength 
 from hundreds of snow-fed tributaries and rushing down through the 
 gorge known as Eagle River Canyon, to join the Grand. 
 
54 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 "Look! Look! Look!" shouted "Vic," pointing upward. The 
 walls near the summit were pierced with the shafts and tunnels of 
 mines and up near the rugged heights one catches glimpses of the 
 shaft-houses and miners' cabins perched on the mountain brink like 
 eagles' nests. 
 
 As the evening sun set in its flood of crimson and gold, the glory 
 of the glow would dazzle the strong eye of the eagle. Gradually it 
 paled to a soft primrose then to eternal green. Later the pearly 
 gray clouds were rose-flushed by an after-glow more vivid than the 
 sunset itself; a rich, full carmine which quickly faded away to the 
 cold, intense blue of a Colorado night. A fitful, light breeze arose, 
 creating a melancholy, mournful wail which vibrated among the 
 rocks and waters with a low, surging sound a wild mountain melody. 
 
 After dinner that evening, we remembered, in the words of a 
 famous author, that it was "the night of the party," the euchre party. 
 It was to be "ladies night" in the "stag" coach. The ladies, attired 
 in their finest, were gallantly escorted to their places and every seat 
 was occupied. 
 
 What a remarkable change had come over the dear old "stag" 
 coach! It had been finely groomed under process of housecleaning. 
 The old home of the "rowdy bunch" and their associates had been 
 smoothed of its usual aspect of being the play-ground of a rough and 
 ready, frolicsome crowd of wandering pilgrims. In accord with the 
 appearance of the coach, an atmosphere of good behavior prevailed, 
 which must have been fully as great a surprise to the coach as its own 
 appearance was to the occupants. 
 
 The conduct of the "boys" within the confines of their own 
 "roost" was not only a revelation but was gratifying and surprising 
 even laughably so and a real treat for the guests. But my, how 
 many cautions, promptings and rehearsals were necessary to accom- 
 plish the perfect staging of this comedy "of good behavior." 
 
 The game was on. Mirth and laughter arose in loud peals from 
 the contestants who were challenging each other's skill and often 
 drowned the announcements to "assist" and commands to "take it 
 up." Out of the continuous strain of converse and laughter, it was 
 difficult to determine who were successful. Those who did not par- 
 ticipate gathered about the side doors of the commissary car and 
 viewed the spectacle with keen gratification. 
 
 But another and more wondrous sight greeted the spectators 
 from without. A spectacle that found its strength in its serenity 
 its sublime, gorgeous beauty whose silence was its eloquence, and 
 whose brilliancy was upon its surface. The train was high in the 
 mountains climbing, climbing and circling about in many curves 
 on a shelf of granite hewn out of the perpendicular cliffs. The 
 
SCENIC GEMS OF COLORADO. 
 
 I Animas Canyon (Through it flows the Rio de Las Animas dc P6rdidas. The River of Lost Souls 1. 2-3-4 
 Mountain of the Holy Cross (Seen from the crest of Fremont and Tennessee Pass ). $ Eagle River Canyon ( Mine 
 Shaft and Tunnels near the Summit ). 6 The Palisades. 7 Snow-banks on ' Moffat Road, " 60 miles from Denver. 
 3 The Walls of the Canyon Grand River. 9 Salida, Colorado. 10 A range of snow crowned mountains, n 
 Mountain lion. 12 Burros (We helped to build the Railroad). 13 Near Mt. Alto Park, Switzerland Trail. 
 
55 
 
 powerful headlights of the engines and the glare from the palatial 
 coaches illuminated the rock on every side. Our souls became im- 
 bued with- the spectacle that unfolded itself before our eyes. The 
 walls of these crevices assumed magical shapes. Colors, tints and 
 unnamed tones which are foreign to the artist's palette, illuminated 
 these cliffs and turned everything to a green, red, yellow aqua 
 marine or mother-of-pearl, by gradations of astonishing delicacy. 
 
 On the other side, clearly detached by a sharp escarpment, arc 
 towering rocks like spires of gigantic cathedrals; rising so proud, 
 so elegant, so bold and so stately. Words fail to express the unex- 
 pected outlines and peculiar shapes of these rocks. Their tops are 
 broken and indented in the form of saw teeth, while gable ends and 
 crosses are effected by these peaks and vertical walls, some of which 
 even slope outward and overhang the railroad tracks. 
 
 Passing through this brilliant gash in the mountain, we entered 
 the canyon of the Grand River, approached through the valley of the 
 Eagle River. High bluffs hemmed us in on the left, while the river 
 bank twisted itself along on the right. Gigantic specimens of 
 ancient architecture hewed out of the rock by the mallet of na- 
 ture, rose above us. Suggestions of the Pyramids and the Sphinx 
 look out of the rock piled structures on every hand. Columns, bas- 
 tions, walls, buttresses, towers and statues in solid stone are created 
 out of the wonderful and natural formations. 
 
 Emerging from this dreamland of stone, we entered Glenwood 
 Springs at 9 :30 o'clock in the evening. A brief delay afforded us 
 the opportunity and pleasure of viewing the surrounding country 
 from the station platform. We found Glenwood Springs nestled in 
 the midst of beauteous mountain landscapes. Its fame rests in its 
 well-earned reputation as a health and pleasure resort and it is prin- 
 cipally noted for its hot springs, where but a few years ago, the 
 Ute Indians bathed in their native freedom. 
 
 The Colorado Hotel, one block from the station, calls forth ad- 
 miration in its architectural design, situated as it is, at the base of 
 the mountains. It commands a richly picturesque view in over- 
 looking the Grand River and all the surrounding valleys. 
 
 All this while, as the beauties of nature's handiwork are being 
 revealed, the euchre party continued without interruption. Ofttimes, 
 the non-participants, who were enjoying the rich treat to its fullest, 
 called the attention of the players to the marvels. 
 
 The euchre party concluded hostilities as we reached Grand 
 Valley. After a count of the maimed and wounded, it was discovered 
 that Sir William S. Watson had captured the first prize. The writer 
 is not certain whether this trophy consisted of Burry's sweater or 
 Seiling's aggregation of pumpkin melons. Unfortunately, the con- 
 
56 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 solation prize was won by one of the ladies and consisted of the 
 "Alarm Clock." The lady indignantly refused to accept the "prize" 
 and felt that the record of being the greatest loser was humiliation 
 enough to bear. So "he" was discarded. Evidently, he wasn't the 
 "right" bower. With accustomed form, a luncheon was prepared and 
 the entertainment voted a glorious success. 
 
 At the conclusion of festivities, other comrades join ""*; party 
 in the commissary car, and told and re-told of the wonderfiu scenes 
 witnessed while riding through the canyons. How long we remained 
 in the commissary car absorbing the scenic grandeurs as they passed 
 in the night, would be difficult to tell. We felt ourselves embraced 
 simultaneously bv three elements the awe and beauty about us, 
 the cheer and good-fellowship of each other and the romance of the 
 starlighted sky. These impulses wove a three-fold spell about our 
 senses, while our intellects and souls seemed free and emancipated 
 from earthly trammels. Each moment seemed to draw us nearer to 
 the realm of the stars which glistened so brilliantly above us. Sud- 
 denly we found ourselves growing drowsy luxuriantly sleepy. It 
 was after midnight. Everything was hushed and the silence that be- 
 longs to the wide expanse of starlighted heavens prevailed. Not a 
 sound disturbed the stilly night to detract from the planets as they 
 hung like golden balls in the clear sky. The star dust of planetary 
 systems whole universes stretched away bewilderingly into the 
 unutterable void of boundless immensity, mapping out here and 
 there the trackless thoroughfares of God in the midnight skies. 
 
The Scenic Lines, The D. & R. G. R. R. and the " Moffat Road." 
 
 PORTALS OF GRANDEUR. 
 
 i Gray's and Torrey's Peaks ( Torrey's Peak, height 14, 336 feet; Gray's Peak, height 14,341 feet). 2 Mount Sopris, 
 altitude 14,300 feet. > The Famous Camp Bird Mine. 4 Portals of the Grand. 5 Hanging Lake ( near Glenwood ). 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 57 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 N the early morning shortly after the ever faithful "Alarm 
 Clock" had beckoned us into Thursday, August 25th, we 
 watched the silent battle of dawn and darkness upon the land 
 of Utah with placid interest. As we observed the shadows 
 gradually sink away and saw the hidden beauties unfold themselves 
 in splendor when the still surface became belated like a rainbow 
 with broad bars of blue and green and white half the distance from 
 the circumference to the centre when we gazed upon the mountain 
 lidges feathered with pines, jutting white caps, bold promontories, 
 grand sweeps of rugged scenery topped with bald, glimmering peaks 
 all magnificently pictured in the polished mirror of the waters, in 
 richest, softest detail, the tranquil interest that was born of the 
 morning, deepened and deepened by sure degrees, till it culminated 
 at last in resistless fascination. 
 
 After breakfast we felt fresh and vigorous. We left our seats 
 hurriedly and just in time, as we plunged through the arcades of the 
 "Castle Gate" which guards the entrance to Price River Canyon. 
 "Castle Gate" bears a great similarity to the "Gateway" of the 
 "Garden of the Gods." The two high pillars of rock forming it are 
 continuations of spurs of the cliffs behind and each rises about 500 
 feet. They are rich red in color and the pines and firs which grow 
 around their base form a fine color contrast. Between these prom- 
 ontories runs the river and the railroad, pressing closely upon one 
 another. The turreted rocky cliffs and the rushing river with 
 tangled brush overhanging, forms a picture that deeply impresses 
 the wayfarer. 
 
 Presently the ascent of the Wasatch range is accomplished and 
 the Mormon citadel is finally entered. At once we appreciated the 
 beauty of the great city of the plains and the handiwork of the 
 sturdy pioneer. 
 
 Railroads have made the Rocky Mountain country familiar and 
 contiguous to the whole world. The canyons, the bald and 
 blackened cliffs, the velvety park and the snowy, silent peak that for- 
 ever rests against the soft, blue sky, are ever new. The foamy green 
 of the torrents has whirled past the giant walls of nature's mighty 
 fortress myriads of years, perhaps, and the stars have looked down 
 into the great heart of earth for centuries, where the silver thread of 
 
58 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 streams, thousands of feet below, have been patiently carving out the 
 canyon where the eagle, the wind and the solemn echo have their 
 home. 
 
 Arriving at Salt Lake City at 10:40 o'clock, our committee 
 chartered a train for a run to Saltair Beach, a magnificent bathing 
 resort on the great Salt Lake. The 14 mile spin across the valley 
 to the lake was exhilarating. The imposing, gigantic pavilion, 
 numerous piers and many bath houses which mark the resort, were 
 seen several miles away. The pavilion is of Moorish design, form- 
 ing a monster crescent in the arms of the sea. The waters are very 
 shallow, averaging only 20 feet in depth and not over 50 feet in the 
 deepest places. The shores on the desert plateau are monotonously 
 flat, though the resort itself stands 4,200 feet above sea level. The 
 dimensions of the lake varies according to the rainfall, the surface 
 rising and falling at various periods in the year. Several streams 
 feed the lake, among which is the Jordan River, 40 miles long, which 
 drains Utah Lake to the southward. 
 
 The waters are densely salt, varying from 14 to 22 per cent, as 
 the waters are high or low (compared with three to four per cent, 
 in the ocean). The lake is estimated to contain 400,000,000 tons of 
 salt. Not a fish can exist within it, with the exception of a small 
 brine shrimp. The waves are light blue or green and as they dance 
 upon the surface, it is difficult to distinguish which color prevails. 
 
 Bathing in Salt Lake is novel. The density of the water makes 
 the body very buoyant, easily floating head and shoulders above 
 the waves, and is so great that a person is sustained on the surface 
 indefinitely, while it is impossible for the human body to sink. 
 
 Suddenly, at a moment when the bathers were in their highest 
 glee, a frightful slashing in the waters riveted the attention of all! 
 The sun was eclipsed for an instant as two immense objects passed 
 through the air, followed by another and greater commotion in the 
 waters. The ladies thought it some monster sea serpent. The men 
 believed the monster beds of salt had exploded and hoped for the 
 best. As the frantic struggle in the waters continued, the bravest 
 of the men cautiously tread near to observe what particular mam- 
 moths of the sea were in deadly combat. They sought and found 
 it was merely Sir Knights Gilchrist and Reel trying to learn how 
 to swim. 
 
 Each of these two gentlemen consumes six feet of space, when 
 standing erect, and fortunately for them, Salt Lake rebelled when 
 they threw themselves upon its waters and refused to ta*ke in more 
 than three feet of each. They floated higher than anyone else and 
 their frantic efforts were consequently not fatal to them. 
 
 One of the spectators on the shore was an Indian not a Mor- 
 
The Scenic Lines, file D. & R. G. R. R. and the" Moffat Road." 
 
 AUDITORIUM OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 I Summit Gray's Peak. 2 Platte Canyon. 3 Canyon of the Grand River. 4 Arapahoe Peaks. 5 Famous George- 
 town Loop. 6 High Bridge and Falls in the Loop. 7 Marshall Pass and Mount Ouray (showing three elevations of track). 
 8 Toltec Gorge. 9 The City of Lead ville and Mt. Massive. 10 Royal Gorge, u Mountain Goat. 1 2 Arapahoe Peak 
 (Colorado). 13 Glenwood Springs. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 59 
 
 mon Indian, nor one of the wooden tribe but a real, live, fast- 
 color red man. His powerful stature and historic ancestry made 
 him a desirable model for an amateur lady photographer. As she 
 leveled her weapon upon him, the Indian haughtily objected. His 
 modesty forbade him to pose for a likeness although he admitted 
 that for a small money consideration he would forego the modesty. 
 As the lady was not a believer in the commercial in art, she did not 
 take kindly to the recompense proposed and continued to level her 
 instrument upon him. With indignation, the Indian picked up a 
 corn cob and was about to let it fly in the direction of the photo- 
 grapher when she hastily closed her camera and took "French 
 leave," for more serene objects of interest. 
 
 Every member of the party, almost without exception, took a 
 plunge in the briny waters of Salt Lake. Sir Lee was timid about 
 casting himself upon the waves owing to his old enemy rheuma- 
 tism. This malady often seizes him and his sufferings on such 
 occasions are not matters of jest. However, after repeated invi- 
 tations of "Oh, come on in Bill it's fine," he decided to take issue 
 against his rheumatics. 
 
 Attiring himself in a gorgeous bathing suit, he stepped out of the 
 bath house into the chilly air and strode toward the beach. He 
 shivered violently and hastened back and sought seclusion once more 
 in civilian attire. 
 
 Unfortunately, his rheumatics seized him with earnestness. Every 
 member of the party offered a remedy via his throat. The sympathies 
 of the ladies were especially benefiting to him but it was only after 
 continued inward application of the preparation offered him that aid 
 was realized. Noting the kind attention that was bestowed upon Sir 
 Lee while in the throes of his affliction, Sirs Robert and Reese soon 
 became seized with similar symptoms and publicly announced that 
 they too, were smitten with rheumatics. However, "Bill" not desir- 
 ing to see fond attention wasted on counterfeit ailments, secretly 
 spread the information that Reese and Robert were suffering from 
 a contagious disease which often follows bathing in salty water. The 
 two would-be rheumatics at once became isolated, inasmuch as every- 
 one fled when they drew near. While being a strong piescnption for 
 the two, it was remarkable how quickly it effected a permanent cure. 
 
 The inevitable curio store is found at Saltair Beach in many num- 
 bers. The salt of the earth and the salt of the sea together with un- 
 salted and saltable curios of all descriptions, make silent appeal to the 
 pocketbook of the visitor. 
 
 On the great pavilion is a monster dance floor. Here the "stag" 
 coach contingent arose to the height of the occasion. They tripped 
 the light fantastic, and cut figures in a manner to bring them addi- 
 
60 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 tional laurels. Who they danced with is not a matter for publica- 
 tion, for in a Mormon country one must do as the Mormons do. 
 
 Probably owing to the stimulating effect of the brine upon the 
 skin or the saline air upon the lungs, or both, our appetites were great- 
 ly sharpened after the bath and we sought and devoured a hearty 
 meal. 
 
 The only sad feature of our stay at Saltair was the realization 
 of the fact that "Vic" was to leave us. The call to duty, urgent by 
 the demands of business, made it necessary for him to return. His 
 kindly manner during his stay with us cemented him firmly in our 
 affections and it was with considerable mutual remorse that he de- 
 parted. 
 
 We returned to Salt Lake City at 3 o'clock in the afternoon and 
 at once boarded a "sight-seeing" car which afforded us a thorough 
 inspection of the city. Salt Lake City, which is often termed "Zion" 
 by the Mormon "faithful," has been so often and so thoroughly de- 
 scribed that most people are acquainted with the beauties of the com- 
 munity. It was here that we met Mr. D. E. Burley, General Pas- 
 senger Agent for the Oregon Short Line railroad. He is a "hale 
 fellow well met," cherished by all that know him. He showed our 
 party every attention. 
 
 The city is situated at the base of a spur of the rugged and beau- 
 tiful Wahsatch Mountains. The northern limits extend to the 
 "bench" or uplands which join the plains to the mountains. The 
 streets are exceptionally wide, being 132 feet in width, including side- 
 walks 20 feet wide, and are beautified and made comfortable by nu- 
 merous shade trees. Along each side of the streets runs a clear, 
 cool stream of water, supplied from the mountain canyons. These 
 rivulets, together with gardens and fruit and shade trees with which 
 the residences are supplied, gives the city an indescribable air of com- 
 fort and repose and lends the enchantment of rural life within city 
 limits. 
 
 In July 1847, when the sight of the present city was a desert 
 region, Brigham Young, after being driven from Nauvoo, on the 
 Mississippi, brought his first Mormon colony across the plains and 
 mountains and landed his band of 143 followers on the ground 
 which was destined to become Salt Lake City. They organized 
 the State of Deseret which afterward became a territory of the 
 United States. 
 
 By prodigious labors in constructing irrigation canals bring- 
 ing down the mountain streams, the Mormons made the soil pro- 
 ductive and changed the desert into one of the most fertile val- 
 leys in the country. Almost the complete flow of the Jordan River 
 is thus used for irrigation purposes. Colonies and proselytes were 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH. 
 
 i Wahsatch Mountains. 2 Moonlight on Salt Lake. 3 West Shore Antelope Island, Salt Lake. 4 Cliffs of Gunnison 
 Island, Salt Lake, and trestle of the " Ogden-Lucin Cut-off." 5 Pelicon Bay, Salt Lake. 6 Black Rock, Salt Lake. 7 
 Temple Square ( Assembly Hall, Tabernacle and Temple ). 8 Tabernacle Organ. 9 Mormon colony crossing the plains 
 ( 1847 ). 10 Saltair from the Beach. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 61 
 
 gathered from all sections of the world until 200,000 Mormons were 
 located in Utah. 
 
 After protracted conflicts with the government, polygamy was 
 declared illegal and its discontinuance was ordered by a proclama- 
 tion of the Mormon president. In Salt Lake City alone, it is said 
 the Latter Day Saints and Gentiles together exceed 50,000. 
 
 Extensive mining interests in the nearby country afford much 
 revenue to the city. The lofty Wasatch Mountains loom up im- 
 pressively on the northern and eastern sides of the city, while to 
 the south, rising beyond a stretch of 100 miles of plains, is a mag- 
 nificent range of snow-covered mountains, offering an awe-inspir- 
 ing view from all portions of the city. 
 
 As the guide called our attention to the various handsome 
 residences there was one invariable query on our part "How many 
 wives has he?" The guide took the question goodnaturedly 
 but pleaded ignorance of the official count. 
 
 After a tour of the city, natural curiosity made us eager to get 
 a peep "over the garden wall" which encloses the "Temple Square" 
 adorned by the three main edifices of the Latter Day Saints, whose 
 particular architecture is of general knowledge. 
 
 "Temple Square," which is the sacred square of the Mormons, 
 forms the hub of all the streets in the city, which are laid out 
 toward the four cardinal points of the compass. Safely guarded 
 behind a high wall, stands the great granite Mormon Temple which 
 was 40 years in building and which cost $4,000,000. Three point- 
 ed towers grace each end, the loftiest of which is surmounted by 
 a gilded figure of the Mormon angel, Moroni. 
 
 Within the "garden wall" is also the Mormon Tabernacle, a 
 high, oval-shaped structure whose roof is rounded like a turtle 
 back. It has a seating capacity of 8,000 within its walls, which 
 stretch 250 feet from east to west and 150 feet from north to south. 
 The roof is supported by 46 columns of sandstone. From these 
 pillars, or walls, the roof springs in one unbroken arch, forming 
 a large, self-sustaining house top. The ceiling rises 63 feet above 
 the floor and has wonderful acoustic properties. 
 
 At the west end of the tabernacle is situated a great organ, one 
 of the largest in America. Seats about the organ accommodate a 
 chorus of 550 singers. After listening to an organ recital, we were 
 given a demonstration of the wonderful acoustic properties of the 
 building. A whisper, and even the dropping of a pin, was clearly 
 audible at a distance of over 200 feet. 
 
 "Assembly Hall" is a stone structure of less pretention and is 
 devoted to the deliberations of the church potentates. The grounds 
 about the buildings are beautifully parked, while a statue of Brig- 
 
62 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 ham Young who designed and laid the corner-stone of the temple, 
 stands within the shadow of that edifice. 
 
 Upon going eastward from the south entrance of the square, 
 we entered the "Tithing Yard" and church offices. The "Lion" 
 and "Bee Hive" houses are then encountered while opposite stands 
 the "Amelia Palace" erected by Brigham Young for his favorite 
 helpmate. Nearby is "Eagle Gate," the entrance to Young's for- 
 mer spacious private grounds, recently reconstructed by the city 
 government. 
 
 Immediately north and east of "Eagle Gate" is the grave of 
 Brigham Young, where, surrounded by several of his wives, he 
 sleeps beneath an unpretentious granite slab. 
 
 Following dinner, we strolled about town, touring the princi- 
 pal streets. The shops, stores and business houses were closed 
 for the most part, and the city was at rest. Illumination was poor 
 and far below that of the average city. Few streets lamps were 
 lit and those that were burned low. Beyond the business district 
 no lights disturbed the peaceful tranquility and the aspect did not 
 appeal kindly to us. We almost neglected to mention that in our 
 tour of inspection to-day, we saw a wash line with a sheriff sale 
 stock of long wet hose looks suspicious. Why not one flag, one 
 country and one wife? Matrimony is a good thing but it can be 
 and is overdone. 
 
 Shortly we returned to the hotel, rested for an hour or two, 
 and then wended our way through the dark thoroughfares to the 
 depot of the Oregon Short Line Railroad. 
 
 Our "special" was in waiting as usual. Its contrasting bright- 
 ness and cheerfulness greeted us invitingly. The feeling of com- 
 fort and "glad to be home again" pervaded every pilgrim in the 
 party. At 9 o'clock we were speeding away for a night's ride to 
 Monida, Mont., which is the starting point for that eventful, ardu- 
 ous, stupendous and soul-gratifying stage ride of one week, through 
 the Yellowstone National Park. 
 
 The night aboard the train offered no special incidents, any 
 further than the general activity in gathering together and pack- 
 ing articles of clothing and necessities for the one week's tour 
 through the great Yellowstone National Park. This journey which 
 we were to enter upon in the morning, was anticipated as one of 
 the most important epochs of our transcontinental tour. With this 
 in mind, all retired early to free the mind from excitement and 
 prepare the physical for the grand, strenuous expedition to come. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 63 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 LL night we rode north through the state of Idaho, arriv- 
 ing at Monida, Montana, at 8 o'clock in the morning. Monida, 
 which is one of the gateways of the railroad to the Yellowstone 
 National Park, is situated in a broad, low pass on the crest of 
 the main range of the Rocky Mountains which forms the boundary 
 line between the states of Montana and Idaho hence the name 
 Mon-Ida. 
 
 So well had we prepared ourselves and so thoroughly had all 
 been impressed with the fact that there must be no delay, that 
 everybody was ready to board the coaches in waiting when we 
 arrived at Monida. The ladies were punctual and as we left our 
 "special" promptly at 8 o'clock on this calm 1 and fair Friday morn- 
 ing, August 26, there was no occasion for the slightest delay. 
 
 Stepping from the cars, we stood face to face with the stren- 
 uous life of the west, which is so strongly advocated by Presi- 
 dent Roosevelt. A string of two and four horse Concord coaches of 
 the Monida and Yellowstone Stage Company were awaiting to carry 
 us to the threshold of the National Park. 
 
 The fiery mustangs were prancing and rearing in wild excite- 
 ment for the start. Their drivers men who have been reared among 
 the mustangs and know and love them and place a confidence in 
 them that they would ne'er repose in man; men who believe in 
 swearing by their horse and against mankind they, too, were im- 
 patient for the start. The excitement that pervaded the rearing, 
 frothing, plunging horses, also influenced them, and they were eager 
 to get started and above all, to be in the lead and stay there. 
 
 The sight of the stage coaches, the nervous mustangs and im- 
 patient drivers, together with the realization that our good, old, 
 faithful and ever-inviting "special" was to be left for a week and 
 the knowledge of the fact that we were about to enter upon an ex- 
 pedition within an expedition, keyed the pilgrims up to almost the 
 same height of excitement that pervaded everything about us. 
 
 Lustily we cheered and yelled farewells and bon voyages to 
 one another and to the "special" as we entered the coaches to 
 wMch each had br.en assigned. It was worth a life-time of C'ty 
 toiling to perch in the fore-top with the driver and see the mustangs 
 in the long line of coaches scamper under the sharp snapping of the 
 
64 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 whip which was continuously swept over them with the skill of 
 the men of the plains, but which never touched or cut the animals. 
 
 It was indeed heavenly to scan the blue distances of a world 
 that knew no monarchs but us; to cleave the winds with uncovered 
 heads and feel the sluggish pulses rousing to the spirit of a speed 
 almost that of the resistless rush of the typhoon. 
 
 Our coaches were off like a pack of well trained hounds on 
 the hot scent. Whips cracked, horses leaped into the air, drivers 
 swore and emphatically declared another half hour would see them 
 in front. Those in the first coach could see the other coaches 
 hurrying in the background through little clouds of dust of their 
 own creation. Those in the rear observed the little line of dots 
 ahead, each coach making its location better known as does the 
 cannon on the battlefield with a puff of smoke. 
 
 The horses were faithful and the drivers were justly proud of 
 them. The noble animals would bowl along on the edge of the 
 steep hill at a reasonable trot but when they again entered the level 
 they did it with a frenzy born of the ceaseless whip cracking, which 
 resounded like volleys of musketry. 
 
 They tore through the narrow paths, over rocks, and were un- 
 mindful of any obstacles that might lie in the path. Around sharp 
 curves they flew, showering their volleys as they went, while be- 
 fore us swept a continuous tidal wave of golfers on the dust and 
 desert land. Far ahead we had the admiring gaze of the coaches 
 way off in the lead. 
 
 On and on we rushed. Every driver strained to the utter- 
 most in his frantic endeavors to make another breathe the dust of 
 his coach. "Look out there, Dick! That fellow in the rear wants 
 to pass us!" shouts someone. 
 
 "Can't do it!" yells the driver in tones of determination, as he 
 rises in his seat and slashes forward with a long lash of his whip. 
 On and on we thundered, regardless of the coach road. Across ditches, 
 up and down, over rocks and mounds and often running on but two 
 side wheels, we surged round curve after curve, seldom relaxing speed. 
 
 Ever on we rushed as our driver passed the coach which but 
 a short time ago, was two miles in the lead. A cheer from each 
 coach as we passed rent the air and lent further incentive and re- 
 newed vigor to the fearless drivers. With a word of encourage- 
 ment to the horses, followed by the relentless smack of the whip- 
 lash, "Dick" kept up the pace, determined to retain his position in 
 the ranks. Looking behind, we saw clouds of dust each a half- 
 mile apart, marking the location of the train of coaches. 
 
 Presently we reached a relay station in the Centennial Valley. 
 Here fresh horses awaited us. Quickly releasing two of the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 65 
 
 most wearied mustangs, they were replaced by well-rested animals. 
 For a time, travel was more difficult and with less speed, owing to 
 the continual but gradual ascent. As we passed the backbone of 
 the rise and gained the level road once more, the drivers surpassed 
 their previous efforts and gave full vent to their shouts and urgings 
 to the faithful mustangs, who responded gamely while the rush and 
 clatter once more resounded throughout the hills and valleys. 
 
 Despite the fact that this section of the journey offered numer- 
 ous abrupt turns on a sharply descending grade, the horses madly 
 galloped their way onward, unmindful of the thrills and anxiety 
 of the passengers who were experiencing anything but a comfort- 
 able frame of mind. The turns in the road were taken with "dare- 
 devil" abruptness. We seemed to be spinning round the rings of 
 a whirlwind or like liquor flowing down the spiral of a corkscrew. 
 
 The driver informed us that it would be to our best interests 
 to be among the first to arrive at Lakeview for luncheon ; "but," 
 he added, impressively "be not disturbed remain tranquil give 
 yourselves no uneasiness the dust of the other coaches rises far be- 
 hind leave all to me." 
 
 Down came his whip as a final climax. The mustangs bound- 
 ed in their harness in response, and fairly lifted the coach from the 
 ground! In an instant we were assured that, at least, two wheels 
 had returned to earth. Never before had we experienced such a 
 shaking up. Recent flooding rains had washed the roads entirely 
 clear, here and there, but we never stopped or slackened the pace 
 for anything. Over ditches, over rocks, across fallen trees, without 
 the least sign of hesitation, the mustangs wildly plunged. Rubbish, 
 driftwood, and gulleys that lay in the road offered no fear for ani- 
 mals or drivers. 
 
 Occasionally, the calm, good4natured madman on the coach 
 top, would bend a majestic look over his shoulder at his passengers, 
 and remark: "Ah, you perceive? It is as I have said, we shall ar- 
 rive for luncheon before it is ready for us." 
 
 Whenever we appeared to have missed being hurled into de- 
 struction in our mad flight, the driver would gracefully turn about 
 and in sarcastic amusement say: "Enjoy it, gentlemen; it is very 
 rare ; it is very unusual ; it is given to only a few to ride in this 
 racy, fascinating fashion." 
 
 The "King" was as good as his word he overtook each one of 
 the coaches in the long procession and passed them like a hurricane. 
 As a result, we arrived at Lakeview Inn, washed up and had the 
 pleasure of greeting the travelers on the other coaches as they filed 
 in one by one. 
 
 We remained at the Inn but forty minutes. The establishment 
 
 (6) 
 
66 
 
 is well kept and was a revelation, inasmuch as the comfort it af- 
 forded was not anticipated in such a remote country district. It 
 need scarcely be said that we were hungry the word fails to ex- 
 press the sensation we felt. The meal was heartily enjoyed and 
 we neglected nothing on the menu. Lakeview derives its name 
 from a lake which lies in the lap of the valley at this point and the 
 green mountain slopes afforded us the first glimpse of grass for 
 many miles. 
 
 During our short stay at Lakewood Inn, the pilgrims took 
 advantage of the opportunity to hold a short session, so as to in- 
 form the several coaching parties what particular experience they 
 had encountered in their particular stage ride. Fortunately, only 
 two fatalities were reported. 
 
 In the first instance, Sir Wayne Gilland was the victim, and 
 if it were not for some "Good Man Friday" he might still be en- 
 acting Robinson Crusoe in the wilds of the Yellowstone Park 
 region. While the coach, which bore him) rapidly to Lakeview 
 was in the highest point of action, it struck a rise in the roadway 
 without ceremony or formal introduction. Gilland sat on top of the 
 coach and as the vehicle attempted to pass the rock unnoticed 
 inclined at an angle of 45 degrees Gilland was tilted the other 
 way. In other words, while the stage showed signs of lying down 
 on its right side, Gilland pulled the other way and the division of 
 opinion led to a division of company Gilland fell off the coach-top. 
 
 Amid the clashing of the mustangs' hoofs, the yells of the 
 driver and the report of the whip lash, any announcement that Gil- 
 land might have made was lost in the air. Fortunately, another 
 member of the party noted our brother Sir Knight's hasty and sud- 
 den departure and induced the driver to halt long enough to gather 
 him in. Happily, Sir Gilland was uninjured and now glories in the 
 distinction that he is the only member of our party who saw that 
 country during "the fall," and declares that he was more deeply 
 touched by nature in that vicinity than any of his brother Sir 
 Knights. 
 
 The second fatality occurred on the coach which brought Sir 
 Flechsig to Lakeview, and he was the particular sufferer. While 
 his coach was bounding over obstacles in the road without the 
 least sign of abatement, he experienced a great feeling of unrest 
 he couldn't retain his seat with any degree of comfort and still re- 
 tain the dignity of wearing a hat. He has two strong and healthy 
 hands, but no more. One he applied to keep his head in touch 
 with his hat and the other he grasped about the coach seat to keep 
 his trousers in touch with the coach. The latter undertaking be- 
 came more and more difficult as the coach rose high in the air after 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 67 
 
 leaping over each successive obstacle in the roadway. Sir Flech- 
 sig, after deep mental research, conceived a wonderful scientific 
 deduction. When the coach bounded upward he would grasp the 
 seat firmly with BOTH hands and retain his seat. When the coach 
 was about to drop suddenly, he would grasp his hat with BOTH 
 hands and retain the friendly and close relation between it and his 
 head. Sad to relate, however, the coach took one particular hurdle 
 with such speed and uncertainty of action as to shatter Sir Her- 
 
68 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 man's theory he grasped the seat instead of the hat and his head- 
 gear was left to the mercies of the breeze. It took considerable 
 persuasion to induce the driver to believe that Sir Herman had neces- 
 sity for his headgear which was then sporting with the wind on the 
 plains but with considerable reluctance the "Ben Hur" of the coach 
 agreed to wait five minutes for a searching party to go after the 
 hat. Their efforts proved successful and they returned shortly 
 with the trophy of the chase. 
 
 After our short but pleasant stay at Lakeview Inn, we again 
 departed on our strenuous career. We were impatient to get 
 away and we were not sorry when the time arrived to start, for we 
 were destined to ride another 40 miles before the day's end. 
 
 On we went, climbing higher and higher, curving hither and 
 thither, in the shade of noble woodland and with a rich variety 
 and profusion of wild flowers growing all about us. Glimpses of 
 rounded grassy hills occupied by a few cattle, lazily nipping, were 
 seen far below, while down in the lower valleys others could be 
 seen as if in diminutive miniature. Every now and then some ermined 
 monarch of the mountain swung magnificently into view for a moment, 
 then drifted past some intervening spur, only to disappear again as 
 we continued in our course. 
 
 The drive throughout was soul-stirring; the exceeding sense of 
 satisfaction that follows a good meal added largely to our enjoyment, 
 as did the keen anticipation of something to look forward to in the 
 grandeurs which were promised in the geysers, hot springs, canyons 
 and other assets of The Yellowstone National Park, sharpened the 
 zest. Smoking was never before so satisfying; solid comfort was 
 never more solid, as we lay back against the cushions of the coach, 
 silent, meditative, steeped in felicity. 
 
 While we sat in silent thought, viewing the beauties in the 
 mountain passes and breathing the pure and rarified air, Sir D. B. 
 Watson, who had been dozing, rubbed his eyes, opened them and 
 then straightened himself up as if startled. He had been dreaming 
 he was at sea and to find land all about him was somewhat of a sur- 
 prising revelation. It took "Davie" several seconds to "come to." 
 
 Meanwhile the horses were galloping on and the driver was 
 whistling the air of some familiar Bohemian opera. Sir William 
 S. Watson was asleep at "Davie's" side, while another wayfarer on 
 the top of the coach was sleeping and baking in the sun, with folded 
 arms and bowed head. "Davie" tried to identify his companions but 
 could not. Try as he would, time and time again, to call them by 
 name, he erred in every instance and smiled at his failures. It was 
 some little time before he could actually and rightly designate his 
 old acquaintances. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 69 
 
 Realizing that he had missed much of the rich scenic advantages 
 of the trip, during his hour's sleep, "Davie" chided himself and prof- 
 iting by his own loss, woke up his brother and took him to task 
 for neglecting the scenery while in slumber. Then Sir William, in- 
 stead of showing signs of humiliation, upbraided "Davie" for being 
 so wanting in vigilance. He announced that he had looked forward 
 to the trip for many months and had especially anticipated a rich 
 treat in the drive to Yellowstone National Park, but that a man 
 might travel to the end of the earth with him and never see anything. 
 He held that he was manifestly endowed with the very genius of ill 
 luck. 
 
 Thus we drove quietly along for several miles, dead to the se- 
 ductions of the bewildering array of scenery, but we entirely re- 
 covered our spirits when the coach bounded over a high rock in the 
 roadway and we all woke up. 
 
 Presently we halted and partook of cool, clear mountain water 
 and felt- considerably refreshed. As we continued upon our journey 
 and sped along the base of the steep mountains, we marveled not at 
 the many tracks of avalanches that had occurred but because of the 
 fact that they are not occurring all the time. One cannot under- 
 stand why rocks and landslides are not constantly plunging down 
 these declivities. Here and there can be seen the effects of snow 
 slides which left broad and naked paths, some of which are a mile 
 in length and a thousand feet wide. As the snow breaks under its 
 own weight from the cliffs many thousand feet high, and hurls it- 
 self into the valleys below, it cuts its path as cleanly and sharply as 
 the surveyor could conceive. The mountain side is thickly covered 
 with growing timber but where a slide has occurred trees have been 
 swept out of the path. Here and there a fallen tree has been caught 
 and lodged, but at the bottom is one conglomerate mass of timber 
 scattered in wild confusion. The path of the snow slide has the 
 appearance of a single cut with the clippers through the heavy wool 
 of a sheep, exposing to view a streak of nakedness. 
 
 We traveled under a sweltering sun and always saw the shade 
 leave the shady places before we could get to them. We had a par- 
 ticularly hot time that particular afternoon. Possibly the only com- 
 fort we found was in the knowledge of the fact that among the trees 
 in the little shady nooks, initials, monograms and names of cities 
 were carved in the bark by others who had traveled the same road 
 before us. 
 
 Shortly we ran straight up a hillside where we could see moun- 
 tains more than 100 miles away. We re-crossed the divide at Targhe 
 Pass and the whip-lash-like road thereto. The rock-dog which is 
 but the translated prairie-dog, broke across the road under the feet 
 
70 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 of our horses. The rabbit and the chipmunk danced with fright. 
 We heard the splashing of the Snake River and as we whirled around 
 a curve we faced the water but saw no bridge. Dauntlessly the 
 horses carried us through the stream while the water reached the 
 very bed of the coaches and seemed to float them to aid the animals 
 who were submerged up to their necks. It was a thrilling experience 
 and the noble mustangs seemed to swim as they carried the vehicles 
 along. Reaching the opposite side, the drivers applied the whip 
 once more as they stood up in their seats, and with a furious dash, 
 we mounted the steep river bank while the passengers feared an 
 upsetting at every instant. 
 
 Up the hill we clamored, then round a curve, up another steep 
 incline, down another valley and once more we flew across the level 
 and over several plank bridges that spanned the gullies. The planks 
 squeaked and shifted from their positions as we bounded over them. 
 
 Before us lay a straight road for three miles or more. In the fore- 
 ground, at a distance of about 60 miles, we observed a high range 
 of mountains of inky blackness. Dark clouds were overhanging 
 while lightning played about the peaks and mountain side like 
 tangled silver threads dropping from the skies. The mountains were 
 shrouded in darkest gloom while about us the day was fair. The 
 scene of a thunder storm in the distance was a most interesting 
 spectacle and as we gazed we viewed, as it were, the atmospheric con- 
 ditions of a distant and far-off region. 
 
 The road turned and we rattled along into Madison Basin to an 
 inn on the western edge of the reservation. It was just about sun- 
 set when we had concluded the trip of 70 (some say more) miles 
 from Monida, in 11 hours. 
 
 This hostelry, if it may be graced by such a name, lies at the 
 very outer edge of Yellowstone National Park proper. Everything 
 within the park is conducted under Government care and supervision 
 but this inn not being within the limits of the park, is a strictly 
 private enterprise although literally speaking there was little en- 
 terprise about it. 
 
 As the first coach drew up, we were met by a tyranical sentinel 
 in the form of over six feet of man, attired in a rough-and-ready 
 corduroy suit and upon whose head was saucily perched a large, 
 broad-brimmed sombrero hat. We learned later that this pirate was 
 the "manager ;" a man from out of the east who had affected all the 
 swagger, bullishness and arrogance which is so often attributed to 
 the man of the western plains, but which is rarely found in him. 
 
 He met the occupants of the first coach with the greatest indif- 
 ference and lack of hospitality. When the fact was made known to 
 him that the pilgrims sought shelter for the night, he seemed bored 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 71 
 
 and made the blunt announcement that we would be compelled to 
 sleep in tents. This was roundly resented. The inn whose purpose 
 it was to accommodate travelers to the park, but which is anything 
 but accommodating, consisted of one double log building and a single 
 log hut, crude and unartistically built. 
 
 We denounced the manager for his endeavors to corral us, as he 
 would cattle, and after a lengthy and animated argument, in which 
 some plain truths were told him, he decided to "place us" under roof. 
 As the other coaches rolled in, the manager became more and more 
 agitated, realizing that he would have duties to perform. It was 
 with the greatest difficulty that our party was placed and this was 
 not accomplished until four or more persons were placed in a room, 
 which could not comfortably accommodate one person. 
 
 Naturally we arrived hungry after our long ride and made ap- 
 plication for dinner. After a tiresome wait, we were told that the 
 banquet hall was in readiness, but owing to the limited room, only 
 a restricted number (about 10) could be "fed" at a time. The party 
 had gathered in the office of the double log house and as the an- 
 nouncement of dinner came, we were directed to pass through a nar- 
 row dark hallway which had as many valleys and dales in it as the 
 road over which we had driven. As the hungry pilgrims passed 
 cautiously through the treacherous and uncertain passageway, we 
 were met at the end by a guard who allowed but a certain number 
 to enter into the dining-room when at his pleasure, he defiantly 
 slammed the door and bolted it in the face of the invading party. 
 
 Notwithstanding our cold reception, we went to the table eager 
 and hungry. The number of dishes provided were amply sufficient 
 but it was the monotonous variety of unstriking dishes that amused 
 us. 
 
 As we waded through the menu, our appetites slackened, 
 whether because of natural or unnatural causes would be unfair to 
 state. Perhaps if the slabs of alleged roast beef, which some iden- 
 tified as mustang flesh were brought on the table and carved in full 
 view of the audience, a truer sense of earnestness and reality might 
 have been added. The meat aroused much enthusiasm owing to its* 
 armor-proof qualities, and the stronger of the men broke up several 
 slices for the benefit of the ladies. We met the weary and wayworn 
 steak, or to be more correct, a broiled barn-hinge, with gravy on it, 
 that bore the tooth prints of other guests who are now in a land 
 where the pirate manager will have a hard time entering. 
 
 Among other things, we were given what the inn keeper thought 
 was coffee. It must be admitted in all truth, that the liquid was 
 within several shades of the real thing, but in taste it was as near 
 coffee as hypocrisy is to holiness. It was feeble, characterless and 
 
72 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 uninspiring. Milk which did a sister act with coffee on the vaude- 
 ville menu, caused a "stay of proceedings ;" several flies swam in 
 the pitcher. The waiter threw in his life preserver and drowned 
 them. It very much resembled whitewash. The bread fair enough, 
 good enough after a fashion, but cold, and tough and unsympathetic. 
 
 Next, the butter, the sham and tasteless butter; it worked the 
 pump handle at daytime and slept under the coaches at night. There 
 was no salt in it, but what was in it will ever remain one of the 
 great mysteries of the yellowstone region. 
 
 Then we had dessert berries. Poor lonesome berries. It was a 
 mean advantage to partake of them, for they had long lost the glow 
 of youth and were in the last stages of decay. Probably the stone 
 hearted manager was even moved to sympathy as he looked into the 
 care-worn faces of those berries, for they were doled out with care 
 and scrutiny which could not otherwise be accomplished than by the 
 use of jewelers' scales. The grapes were fair, but frequently through 
 neglect on the part of the waiter, a tolerably good "peach" was 
 found. 
 
 At the end of the "feast" we were grievously unsatisfied ; we had 
 plenty of exercise, plenty of interest, a fine lot of hopes but nothing 
 to eat. 
 
 After dinner we wandered aimlessly about from one of the log 
 shanties to the other, one of which contained a stove. As we moved 
 about in the arctic atmosphere, all were silent, smileless, forlorn and 
 shivering thinking perhaps, how foolish we were to have come so 
 far away from our own firesides. Finding the ladies huddled about a 
 cold, fireless and unsympathetic stove, Sir William G. Lee gallantly 
 started a fire in this apparently useless piece of furniture. The manager 
 of the inn at once interfered, declaring that "it was hot enough to 
 bake beans." Sir Lee agreed that he had made it hot enough to suit 
 any guest, but insisted that the fire in the stove remain burning and 
 the pirate withdrew in humble defeat of his purpose. 
 
 We were not dissatisfied with rural life, or as the Reverend 
 Wagner would have it, "the simple life." No, in fact this is just 
 what we would have appreciated most. We were willing and even 
 anxious for novelty's sake, to enter into the simple as well as the 
 strenuous life. But to be abused, mistreated, denied comforts which 
 were readily at hand by a tyranical pirate in the role of hotel mana- 
 ger, whose methods for getting all he could for nothing, would drive 
 the highwayman to blush, was not only distasteful to us but tended 
 greatly to discourage the fond hopes we had anticipated in our trip 
 through Yellowstone National Park. 
 
 As we moved about from one crude shanty to the other, we 
 mentally became more and more discouraged and anxiously awaited 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 73 
 
 the morrow when we could dash into the wilds of the great park and 
 forget this place. The shanties taken as a whole, looked to us like 
 a skating rink that had started out to make money and then sud- 
 denly changed its mind and resolved to become a tannery. The roofs 
 were made of little odds and ends of misfit rafters and distorted 
 shingles that somebody had purchased at a sheriff's sale and the 
 rooms and stairs were giddy in the extreme. When we rambled in 
 and around the cross-eyed staircases and other nightmares till reason 
 tottered on her throne, we came out and stood on the architectural 
 wart, called the front porch, to get fresh air. This porch was paint- 
 ed a dull red and had wooden rosettes at the corners that looked like 
 a freckle on the end of the nose of a social wreck. 
 
 Further up on the demoralized "lumber pile" we saw, now 
 and then, places where the workman's mind had wandered by the 
 too free use of "thin skin" and "cut and dry" and he had nailed on his 
 clapboards wrong side up and then painted them with Paris green that 
 was intended for something else. It might have been constructed 
 at night for mental relaxation and intellectual repose, but for com- 
 fort, architecture and beauty, the building was a gross violation of 
 the statutes in such cases made and provided against the peace and 
 dignity of the State. No one could look at it or sleep within its 
 walls without a feeling of heartache and the nightmare. Besides 
 the two log huts which comprised the Inn, the proprietor conducted 
 a "department" store in the rear of the larger building. This en- 
 terprise was built, for the most part, under ground. The entrance 
 led into what appeared to be a dugout and the further one entered 
 into the store, the further underground he would find himself. There 
 was a gruesome mysteriousness about the deranged little place. 
 The proprietor of the inn and store as well, remained in charge of 
 the store almost continuously. He was an aged man, a backwoods- 
 man, and while he was somewhat coarse and blunt in his manner- 
 Isms, he at least, did not affect the arrogance and domineering spirit 
 of the creature who posed as his manager. 
 
 In this store, among other things, was a meager display of sou- 
 venirs from Yellowstone National Park, consisting of pieces of 
 rock, many colored sands, geyser formations and similar articles. 
 While they were exhibited for the purpose of sale, the proprietor 
 was visibly agitated when a prospective customer showed an inclina- 
 tion to purchase. It was evident that he felt bored with the pros- 
 pect that the sale of any souvenir entailed the necessity of laying 
 in another supply. 
 
 However, there were souvenirs in liquid form, which the proprie- 
 tor was willing to dispense with freer hand and for which he him- 
 self was a willing customer. These liquids were indeed souvenirs, 
 
74 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 for once purchased they would leave a lasting* remembrance. They 
 were designated by the prosaic names of "Cut and Dry" and "Thin 
 Skin." The proprietor thought so highly and dearly of them that 
 he kept them in the deepest and farthest recesses of the underground 
 hovel. To the very best of our knowledge, the manager was about 
 the only person who had the least respect for these "souvenirs." 
 However, we could ever remember the cold comfort and lack of hos- 
 pitality received at this place without a souvenir. 
 
 As the time came to retire, we were handed a small piece of 
 candle with which to light ourselves upstairs and into a small and 
 thinly partitioned compartment which was honored in being desig- 
 nated as a "room," probably called a room because there wasn't any. 
 Two beds were crowded into each of these pigeon holes. 
 
 The beds were also "souvenirs," from the standpoint that they 
 were greatly out of the common. In them were hills and valleys 
 and to be accommodated in one, the occupant was compelled to take 
 a position, making his body conform to the impression left by 
 the person who slept there last. No carpet graced the floor, a mel- 
 ancholy washstand stood isolated in the corner. A dejected pitcher 
 stood upon it, mourning over a broken nose. Above this piece of 
 strictly antique furniture, hung the remnant of a looking-glass. 
 Half of the glass was gone and as one gazed into the remaining half, 
 one's head was missing from the chin up, giving the appearance of 
 some dreadful, unfinished object. Stretches of canvas served as par- 
 titions separating the "rooms" and whispers could distinctly be heard 
 from one apartment to another. In fact, one could not offer a prayer 
 without having it conflict with that of another in adjoining and distant 
 rooms. Sir William J. Staiger, who was dreadfully tired, leaned 
 rather heavily against the partition of the pigeon-hole assigned to 
 him, to pull off his shoes. The strain was too much for the parti- 
 tion and he broke through it into the next "room." 
 
 No light but a dismal candle illuminated the room. Presently 
 Sir W. G. Reel cried out for the porter to secure more light. The 
 porter, who was the son of the proprietor was clad in overalls and 
 boots and wore a red flannel undershirt. In response to the call, he 
 climbed up a ladder which served as a stairway, and as he crept 
 along the dismal hallway, which was here and there patched with a 
 piece of wornout oilcloth, the floor sank under his weight and the 
 building creaked dismally to every footstep. He carried a lantern 
 to guide him safely, and in response to the request of the guest, 
 lighted a two-inch piece of tallow a sorrowful, lean candle that 
 burned blue, then sputtered and got discouraged and went out. 
 
 Undaunted, the porter lighted it again. Sir Reel asked if that 
 was all the light he had. "O'h! No," replied the porter, who by the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 75 
 
 way, was the most accommodating individual about the place. "I've 
 got two one-inch candles here." Reel said : "Light them both I'll 
 have to have one to see the other by." The porter did so but the re- 
 sult was drearier than darkness itself. In a spirit of confidence, the 
 porter announced that he would go "somewhere" and steal a lamp. 
 Reel abetted and encouraged him in his criminal design. 
 
 To our great sorrow, we heard that pirate manager get after the 
 porter in the hallway a few minutes later. "Where are you going 
 with that lamp?" he thundered. 
 
 "Eleven wants it," timidly replied the porter. 
 
 "Eleven ! Why he's got a bunch of candles now. Does he want 
 to illuminate the house? Does he want to get up a torchlight pro- 
 cession? What is he up to anyway?" 
 
 "He don't like them candles. Says he wants a lamp and if he 
 don't get it, he'll burn the shanty down." 
 
 "Well, you take it along and see what in the very nation he wants 
 with a lamp," and the tyrant went off growling. 
 
 Tired as we were, we hesitated as to whether we should retire, 
 considering the surroundings. We talked at random, in vain en- 
 deavor to make "head or tail" of the wild chaos of the day's sights 
 and experiences. Our pleasures had been boundless during that 
 day of rare holiday frolic. Thirty miles of ceaseless rush, rattle and 
 clatter and never a weary moment, never a lapse of interest. A score 
 of these miles were over a level country, with desert solitudes of limit- 
 less panoramas and bewildering prospectives. Then we remem- 
 bered the pleasant stop at Lakeview, following which we rode forty 
 or more miles over hills and valleys. Grassy carpets sprinkled this 
 pathway which was figured with Nature's own designs. 
 
 We remembered the shadow of the clouds, crossing the Snake 
 River. Here were no scenes but summer scenes and no disposition 
 inspired in them but to dreamily smoke the pipe of peace with repose 
 and contentment. The massive fortresses, counterfeited in the eter- 
 nal rocks and splendid with the crimson and gold of the setting sun; 
 dizzy altitudes among fog weathered peaks and never melting snows t 
 where thunder and lightning and tempests warred magnificently far 
 off in the distance, with the storm clouds that swung their shredded 
 banners in our very faces. 
 
 We subsided to indolent smoking. We yawned and stretched 
 then feebly wondered if we were really and truly on the border, at 
 the very gate, of the renowned "Yellowstone" and drifted drowsily 
 away into sleep. 
 
76 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 ATURDAY morning, August 27, found a congregation of early 
 risers among the guests at the inn. No "Alarm Clock" was 
 necessary to bring the pilgrims out of their beds, although it 
 required considerable physical exercise to arise from out of the 
 deep cast molds, which previous guests had created. 
 
 The outside world offered such a pleasing and striking contrast, 
 as the sun slowly arose in the horizon to supervise the movements of 
 the day. The scent of the pine trees lent vigor to the body and in- 
 stilled ambition into the soul. The border of the Yellowstone Park 
 could be seen from the distance and sharpened our curiosity to see 
 the mysteries within. 
 
 The disappointments which were encountered in arriving at the 
 inn the night before were momentarily forgotten as we gazed from 
 our windows and realized the rich pleasures which were in store for 
 the day. But our hopes were destined to again perish in the sea of 
 disappointment and discouragement, at least for a time. We were 
 again called to the dining room ! 
 
 Once more we were corralled in the narrow rickety hall-way and 
 allowed to rush into the "banquet hall" in groups, as sheep are 
 turned into their respective pens. We dined on the remnants of 
 that, which was dignified by the name "dinner" the night before. 
 
 Promptly at 8 o'clock we boarded our coaches which were in 
 waiting, and with the heartiest of farewells, which came directly 
 from all hearts, we bade the inn good-bye with a hope that we should 
 not strike such an equally inhospitable hostelry during the re- 
 mainder of our pilgrimage, or the rest of our lives. 
 
 Refreshed by the early morning air, we went bowling along over 
 a hard and smooth roadway, through all the summer loveliness. Short- 
 ly we found the roadways in excellent condition and freely sprinkled 
 to allay the dust. At once we realized that we were actually within 
 the park; for Uncle Sam is an excellent custodian and takes particu- 
 lar pride in caring for his famous breathing spots. 
 
 Once within the park, the sights and scenes were a constant en- 
 tertainment to the eye. Sometimes only the width of the road guided 
 us between imposing precipices on the left and a clear, cool body of 
 water on the right, with its shoals of uncatchable fishes, skimming 
 about through the bars of sun and shadow. Sometimes the preci- 
 
77 
 
 pices faded away into an apparently endless, upward slant, and were 
 densely covered with magnificent trees. 
 
 The beauty of the woodland became intensified as we approached 
 a veritable Eden of pines. Through the center of this grove was a 
 broad driveway flanked on each side by immense pine trees of al- 
 most equal height. This was the famous Christmas Tree Park. One 
 becomes deeply inspired when once within this forest of pine. Such 
 a sameness is there in infinite variety. Once inside, the woods can- 
 not be seen for trees. One can but wander on, letting each object 
 impress itself upon the mind and carry away a confused recollection 
 of innumerable perpendicular lines straining upward in competition. 
 The upward lines are of varied thicknesses, while branches scatter 
 about in confusion. The delicious scent that fills the air breathes 
 of vigor and health-giving qualities. 
 
 On this drive we caught the first glimpse of deer, elk and eagle. 
 With a sauciness that commanded respect, the deer ventured out in- 
 to the road, less than a score of feet in front of the prancing mus- 
 tangs. With head erect and ears alert, they gazed daringly at us 
 then scampered back into the wood. Their grace and agility, to- 
 gether with the white-speckled loins of the tiny fawns, added beauty 
 and prettiness to the picture. 
 
 Occasionally we caught glimpses of elk, who, like their smaller 
 relatives, the deer, stood majestically in expectancy as they heard 
 the approach of our coaches, then with graceful leaps over any and 
 every obstacle in the path, they were lost in the wilds of the forest. 
 
 Far up in the tree tops, many paces ahead, we observed the 
 eagle serenely and statue-like, taking a topographical view of the 
 surrounding country, seeking prey with unerring eye. With dis- 
 dain, the bird-king cast his glances down upon us and with an air of 
 supremacy and indifference, never moved a feather to indicate that 
 mere humanity was worthy of notice. 
 
 Onward we drove, to the regular and even stride of the mus- 
 tangs, as we passed down through the forest, drawing in the fra- 
 grant breath of the morning, in deep, refreshing draughts, and wish- 
 ing we might never have anything to do forever more, but ride and 
 ride through such woodland. 
 
 The true charm did not lie in the drive and scenery alone, but 
 in the conversation as well. The rattle of the coaches was an ex- 
 cellent measure by which to time the movement of the tongue and 
 keep the blood and brain stirred and active. The supreme pleasure 
 came from the heart to heart talk among congenial companions. It 
 mattered little whether one talked wisdom or nonsense, the result 
 was the same. The greater portion of the enjoyment lay in the ac- 
 tion of the gladsome jaw and the ringing of the sympathetic ear. 
 
78 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 What a variety of subjects were raked over during that half- 
 day's drive! There being no constraint, a sudden change in the 
 subject was always in order, and no one subject was permitted to 
 grow tiresome. In the first hour or more of that early morning ride, 
 we discussed everything we knew. Then we branched out into the 
 glad, free, boundless realm of the things we were not certain about. 
 The fact that we were not all agriculturists was made known 
 when "Joe" inquired at what particular season the pine trees of 
 Christmas Tree Park bore their pineapples. Others inquired as to 
 how Yellowstone Park derived its name, and to this query, Sir Carl, 
 with an air of superior information, pointed out all the yellow mud- 
 bespecked stones that lay in our course. 
 
 Occasionally the conversation would turn to the geysers and 
 hot springs, which we yearned to see, when some caustic wit in the 
 party would refer the travelers to seek under the coach body for the 
 hot springs. Sometimes the conversation would turn for a moment 
 to the sentimental, and we expressed curiosity to know what the 
 friends at home were doing and thinking about, and then we would 
 discuss our anticipations of the coming conclave at Frisco. 
 
 Sometimes we would "give the floor" to the driver, who would 
 take up the thread of his life's history, which he had laid aside pre- 
 viously. True or untrue, the tales of the past of these reinsmen, 
 form the most interesting narratives imaginable. Some proved the 
 exception to the rule, in that they would not discuss their past his- 
 tory at all, and drove silently on, listening, but rarely speaking. 
 There can be no doubt that among the most silent, lies buried tales 
 of the past that if told would bear out the old adage that "truth is 
 stranger than fiction." Their very silence carries the impression 
 that romances were buried behind when they sought the west and 
 the stage coach for forgetfulness. 
 
 As we exhausted our conversational ability we sought singing as 
 a pastime. We were cheered by our own melodies. Everybody sang, 
 or at least tried to give voice to some song. The result was a wild but 
 entertaining blending of soprano, alto, contralto, basso, baritone, tenor 
 and several intermediate tones still unnamed. Occasionally one singer 
 would act as leader, usually all were leaders. Some were more rapid 
 vocalists than others, but those that dwelt at length upon the climax 
 soon caught up, even though they were compelled to jump a few meas- 
 ures at a time. Old and young sang songs they had never heard, and 
 some, no one else had ever before listened to. Others sang who could 
 not sing. Many a medley of childhood was resurrected which some of 
 the older members of the party recognized as one-time popular airs. 
 All formalities were cast to the winds and the happy party kept pull- 
 ing away with no apparent sign of fatigue. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 79 
 
 It was all high-grade music. Indeed it must have been high- 
 grade because it so uplifted us that we were full of cry all the time 
 and mad with enthusiasm. Our souls were never before so thorough- 
 ly scoured out. The solemn and majestic chanting rose and fell 
 (mostly rose), and rose again, in that rich and wild confusion of war- 
 ring sounds to the stately swing of those ever-present inspiring airs. 
 It seemed as if nothing but the very highest of high-grade music 
 could be so divinely beautiful. 
 
 Just imagine hearing that congenial "ycmng-old-man" Heckel, 
 singing "Bedelia" and a score of other popular airs that but few of us 
 know; and when Sir Oscar came in with his impressive basso the 
 horses started on a gallop, we all received a jolt, and the singing was 
 driven out of us as the driver pulled in the reins. 
 
 We learned to know that there were two kinds of music a kind 
 which one feels, just as an oyster might; and another sort which re- 
 quires a higher faculty which must be associated and developed by 
 training. Yet if base music gives some of us wings, why then should 
 we desire any other? But we do. We want it because it comes 
 higher. 
 
 Presently we came upon Riverside Station where is located a 
 cantonment from Fort Yellowstone. This point is always guarded 
 by government militiamen on horseback, who pace the roadway. 
 These armymen are encountered in all sections of the park. 
 
 The route follows along the Firehole River after passing River- 
 side Station. The stream has not been inappropriately named and 
 seems to flow from the worst portion of the Satanic domain. It 
 has ample current with beautiful transparent, blue water, bubbling 
 over a bed of discolored stones and lava. Its waters are composed 
 entirely of the outflow of geysers and hot springs, impregnated with 
 everything the forbidding regions produce. The water is pretty 
 to look at but vilely bitter. 
 
 Thus far we had seen no geysers, although several miles ahead, 
 along the river, geysers are liberally distributed at intervals for 10 
 miles, being, for convenience of description, divided into the Lower, 
 Middle and Upper Geyser Basins. 
 
 As we drove merrily along we passed the falls of the Firehole 
 River beautiful beads of blue, clear water, breaking over the rocks. 
 About the noon hour, we saw, miles ahead, the steam rising from the 
 Lower Geyser Basin in clouds that were lost among the distant hills. 
 Presently we arrived at a point where we could see the myriads of 
 steam jets, rising from a surface area of some three miles of desolate 
 geyserite deposits, which had the appearance of a large field of snow. 
 The Fountain Hotel was now in sight, and with renewed ambition 
 we sped along the straight road and arrived at the hostelry in time for 
 
80 
 
 luncheon. This is the first hotel within the park proper and being 
 conducted under government supervision, inasmuch as the privilege 
 for conducting it is granted by Uncle Sam, the contrast it afforded 
 to the hovel which is graced by the name of an inn was marked 
 but more of this anon. 
 
 Our arrival at Fountain Hotel was hailed with delight by mem- 
 bers of the party because of the stimulating air, and the fact of the 
 uncomfortable stay at the inn on the border. But the delight of the 
 pilgrims was not shared by the proprietor of the hotel at least not 
 for the first moment or two owing to the suspicion that was given 
 him, that a stranded circus troupe was about to make a concentrated 
 attack. 
 
 This slight misunderstanding was, in a measure, due to Sir 
 William G. Lee, but not because of any premonition on his part. 
 Sir Lee, like the rest of us, had become numb and stiff from sitting 
 in one position during the long drive. As his coach drew up 
 to the door of the hotel, he forgot his affliction in his anxiety to 
 alight, and in an effort to step out of the coach, he stumbled over a 
 valise, and after a graceful (?) double somersault he alighted on the 
 porch of the hotel at the feet of the proprietor. "Bill's" entree was 
 picturesque to say the least, and the proprietor of the hotel looked 
 anxiously for some other member of the party to swing off the roof 
 of the coach from a trapeze, or walk into the hostelry on a high wire. 
 Fortunately, the rest of the party passed through the usual formalities 
 in alighting, and thereby set af rest all fears of the hotel management. 
 
 Our fondest anticipation of the meal we were to have at Fountain 
 Hotel did not equal the realization. The contrast between it and 
 the rations that were "thrown out" to us at the inn was too great 
 for description. The table was snowy white in the array of linen and 
 the service was equal to that of any first class metropolitan hotel. To 
 find such conditions in the very wilds of the west was a surprising 
 and most agreeable fact. 
 
 Imagine how the poor, weary and hungry pilgrims devoured 
 those appetizing viands ; we felt that some good angel had suddenly 
 swept down from out of a better land and set before us a mighty 
 porterhouse steak, an inch and one-half thick, hot and spluttering from 
 the griddle; dusted with fragrant peppers; enriched with little melt- 
 ing bits of butter of unimpeachable freshness and genuineness; the 
 precious juices of the meat trickling out and joining the gravy, 
 archipelagoed with mushrooms ; a strip or two of tender, yellowish 
 fat, gracing an outlying district of this ample county of beefsteak; 
 and the long white bone which divides the sirloin from the tender- 
 loin, still in place. That good, imaginary angel, also added a great cup 
 of home-made coffee, with cream "a-froth" on top ; some real butter, 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 81 
 
 firm, yellow and fresh; some smoking hot biscuits; a plate of hot 
 buckwheat cakes with transparent syrup. Could words describe the 
 sumptuousness of this layout, compared with that of our former stop- 
 ping place? 
 
 After luncheon we were assigned to our rooms. Large, spacious 
 apartments were alloted to us. The bed linen was faultlessly white, 
 while the furniture within the rooms was strictly modern and com- 
 fortable. Everything essential for the welfare and ease of the guests 
 was found in these rooms, while the service throughout the house 
 was excellent. 
 
 Having been apprised where we were to be quartered for the 
 night, and after seeing that our baggage was deposited in the right 
 rooms, we gathered together in a large drawing room on the ground 
 floor one of those rooms which are the chief features of all summer 
 resorts. 
 
 In this room was one of those "near-pianos" a small, clattery, 
 wheezy, asthmatic thing; certainly the worst counterfeit, in the way 
 of a piano, that we had seen. 
 
 How Addie and Lydia manipulated the ivories with such skill 
 and marvelous rapidity and simplicity, was an astonishing treat to 
 everyone. Presently, a young lady, unknown to members of our 
 party, and apparently unconscious of the multitude about her, ap- 
 proached the piano timidly. As soon as she began to beat that old, 
 helpless wreck , we knew it had faced its destiny and we felt sorry for 
 the hoarse and sickly instrument. After a companion of the lady 
 pianist had brought several armsful of sheet music into the room and 
 had begun to gracefully turn the pages, she swooped down upon the 
 instrument and without any further preliminaries turned on all the 
 horrors of "tenement-house torture," while the congregation set its 
 teeth in agony. With a sweeping calesthenic movement she followed 
 attack with attack until the battle waged at its height and thunder 
 of shots and exploding shells was the only "musical" thing she pro- 
 duced. Then she waded, chin-deep, into the blood of the slain with 
 a fair average of two false notes in every five, and rarely agreed with 
 the author of the composition which she was endeavoring to follow. 
 The audience stood it for a while with marked forbearance, but when 
 the cannonade waxed hotter and fiercer and discords held full sway, 
 the procession began to move. One by one, the congregation sought 
 the fresh and stilly air, which was fractured only by the more melod- 
 ious and harmonizing notes of the hawk, owl, eagle and cricket. A 
 few stragglers held their ground 10 minutes longer, but when the 
 pianist began to wring out the "cries of the wounded" they struck 
 their colors and retired in panic. 
 
82 
 
 There never was a more complete victory; "Bobbie" and Jack 
 were the only non-combatants left on the field. None liked medioc- 
 rity, but we all reverenced perfection. The music was perfection 
 in its way ; it was the worst music that had ever been achieved by a 
 mere human being. 
 
 "Bobbie" moved closer and listened attentively. When she had 
 concluded, to the horror of all, he urged her to repeat it. She 
 agreed with a pleased alacrity and a heightened enthusiasm and made 
 it ALL discords this time. She got an amount of anguish into the 
 cries of the wounded that shed a new light on human suffering. She 
 continued on the warpath for the next half hour. 
 
 All this time, crowds gathered on the porch and pressed their 
 faces closely against the window panes to look and marvel, and 
 placed their hands to their ears so that they might not hear; for the 
 bravest dared not venture in. Finally, the young lady marched off, 
 contented and happy, and our party took renewed courage and 
 marched in again. Moral: The piano should never be abused, they 
 are always "square and upright." 
 
 During the afternoon rain and hail showers came and went 
 intermittently. Between showers we visited the geysers and hot 
 springs and other natural curiosities in the vicinity of the hotel. It 
 appeared to us as if the rain stimulated the activity of the geysers. 
 The larger one bubbled all over and as the rain and hail fell it cre- 
 ated the effect of water thrown upon a hot stove. 
 
 There are about 700 springs and geysers in the neighborhood, 
 most of them very small. The noted Fountain Geyser throws a 
 broad, low stream of many interlacing jets every two or three hours, 
 which prevail about 15 minutes. The Thud Geyser has a crater 150 
 feet in diameter with a small rim within. Afe the geyser operates, it 
 throws a column 60 feet in height, with heavy and regular "thud" 
 underground, announcing the coming of each new spray. This gey- 
 ser has no fixed period for action. The basin in which the hotel lies 
 has a generous supply of mud geysers, known as "paint pots," which 
 eject brilliantly colored muds with the consistency and appearance 
 of paint, the prevailing hues being red, white, yellow and pink. 
 
 The surface about these geysers and springs is underlined with 
 sulphur, subterranean fires, boiling water, and steam, which make 
 their way out in many places. Throughout the whole district, the 
 earth has been cracked by the heat into wide fissures in which waters 
 can be heard boiling and running down, in the depths. Everything 
 on the surface, which can be, is burnt. 
 
 Nearly every crevice throws forth steam and hot water with 
 deposits of sulphur at their outer edges, while the odors of 
 some are almost unbearable. No wonder that the Indians avoid- 
 
Courtesy Oregon Short Line R. R. 
 
 MONIDA TO LOWER GEYSER BASIN, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 i The Rapids. 2 Cascades of the Firehole River. 3-15 Deer. 4-6-7 Where Nature Sleeps. 5 Elk in the 
 Valley. 8 On the border. 9 Yellowstone Park Stage Coach. 10 Bear, posing for his picture. 1 1 Christmas Tree 
 Park. 12 Racing to Lakeview. 13 Mud Geyser. 14 Mammoth Paint Pots. 16 Fountain Hotel. 17 National Park 
 Mountain, Junction of Firehole and Gibbon Rivers. 18 Hail and Rain. 19 Fountain Geyser, Lower Basin. 20 Excel- 
 sior Geyser. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 83 
 
 ed this forbidding region ! No wonder the tales told by some of the 
 early explorers were disbelieved ! 
 
 Here and there the hot springs form shallow pools where the 
 waters run over the rim-like edges, trickling down over the outer 
 lips, forming beautiful shapes and coral decorations out of the dried 
 lime deposits. With the aid of the sun, these deposits become rich 
 in delicious colorings of red, brown, green, yellow, blue and pink. 
 As long as the waters flow these decorations retain their mystic- 
 color beauty, but where the flow ceases the atmosphere bleaches 
 everything into a snowy-whiteness, while the more delicate forma- 
 tions crumble into dust. 
 
 As we tread over the formation, the ground rang hollow. A 
 stream of iron-red water gushed forth here and there, then rushed 
 into a hole in the earth as a frightened prairie dog. A half- 
 hundred feet above us, jets of steam arose only to die out and fade 
 into the blue. The dust bespattered deposits were continually be- 
 ing renovated by lime, whiter than the driven snow. 
 
 As the eye followed down the grottoes and caves, the deep abyss 
 that finds its way into fires of the bowels of the earth, the mind lost 
 all conjecture of the depths from whence these wonders come forth. 
 The pools, crying out in anguish because of the bitterness which they 
 endure, mutter, chatter, moan and groan continuously. Fifty feet 
 under water, from out of the lips of the lime edges, silver bubbles 
 worked their way up into the still crystal surface, disturbing its tran- 
 quility. Suddenly the pool shakes and noises rumble. As we retired 
 in fright, we found neighboring pools in similar agitation. Crevices 
 in the ground reek with running, seething water. In places, pit 
 holes remain as dry as the desert sands elsewhere the seething 
 waters have embalmed and boiled the underwood, while here and 
 there forest trees shield the havoc with their greenery. 
 
 The struggle between the subterranean fires and peaceful vege- 
 tation will ere long be won by the trees and shrubs. The fires which 
 have raged through the ages are dying down. The hotel now stands 
 where the springs at one time flowed wildly into deposit wastes 
 while the pines which surround the hostelry have succeeded the 
 former places of geysers and springs. 
 
 Government soldiers patrol and guard the grounds, armed with 
 six-shooters, to prevent the tourist from hurling logs and stones 
 into the pools, or chipping tracery from the formations or walking 
 where the crust is too thin, to foolishly cook himself. 
 
 It was at the Fountain Hotel that we saw the first bears on our 
 pilgrimage. They boarded at the same hotel, and there is more truth 
 than jest in this. Not that they occupied adjoining rooms for they 
 merely took table board, but still not at our particular table. 
 
84 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 Owing to the remoteness of the hotels in Yellowstone Park from 
 any municipal garbage dump, it is the practice of the management 
 of these hostelries to carry the refuse from the kitchen and dining 
 room and deposit it a few hundred yards in the rear of the buildings. 
 So accurately have the bears in the surrounding country noted this 
 fact, and so carefully have they gauged the time for carrying the 
 garbage to the depository, that they seldom vary a moment in making 
 their tri-daily calls and feasting from the refuse heap until no heap 
 remains. 
 
 As a special caution to guests, danger posts are stationed about 
 200 feet from the garbage repository to mark the point from whence 
 the bears can be viewed with certain safety, while the additional pre- 
 caution is given not to move nearer or create a disturbing noise 
 while the bruins are within hearing distance. It is a well known 
 characteristic of the animal not to become aggressive unless in hun- 
 ger or fear of danger, when they become not only fleet of foot and 
 sharp of claw but have a power of embracing one as he has never 
 been embraced before, or can possibly be embraced thereafter. 
 
 As if equipped with faultless and ever accurate time pieces, the 
 bears slowly waddle out of the dense forest of pines at precise hours 
 three times a day about a half hour after each meal, being gra- 
 cious enough to allow the employees time to place the refuse. As 
 we watched them from the prescribed point of safety, we could see 
 them leisurely, slowly and ploddingly jogging to their eating place. 
 With noses close to the ground, eyes riveted upward, and heads in 
 continuous swinging motion from side to side, they waddled forward 
 to the garbage heap and devoured it in its entirety, meanwhile eye- 
 ing us with suspicion. They left as they came, unceremoniously 
 and leisurely, and were lost in the pines until the hour for replenish 
 ing the garbage pile was at hand. 
 
 During the afternoon we met several Sir Knights of Tancred 
 Commandery No. 48, of Pittsburgh, in their coaches. The most cor- 
 dial greetings were exchanged. There was more than a touch of 
 sentiment in the accidental meeting of brother Sir Knights from our 
 own sister city. Our Praters were enthusiastic in their delight and 
 showered us with best wishes and good cheer. We too, were happy 
 over the meeting with "home folks" in such a romantic place as Yel- 
 lowstone Park. A final word a "good-bye" and an expressed hope 
 that we would meet at the Conclave and they again resumed their 
 route. 
 
 Returning to the hotel, Sirs Jack and Reel became impressed 
 with the idea that their identity had become lost behind over-grown 
 beards. A systematic search of the hotel failed to reveal a barber- 
 shop. Upon inquiry, the clerk informed the "two wild men of 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 85 
 
 Yellowstone" that the engineer could be induced to amputate the 
 beards. Seeking the under-world, wherein lie the engine and boiler 
 rooms, they found the engineer, and after an interview were informed 
 that he would take the contract, although he showed no desire to 
 furnish a bond. 
 
 The engineer inquired where the rooms of the unshaven were. 
 "Never mind about our rooms," cried Reel, "we want to be shaved 
 right now." 
 
 Then the engineer became excited! There was a hurried con- 
 sultation between him and his assistant, the fireman, followed by a 
 hurrying to and fro and an unearthing of razors from most unex- 
 pected places and a skirmishing for soap and other necessary me- 
 chanical appliances. 
 
 Escorting his victims into a mean, small, shabby back room, 
 used for storing timber to fire the boiler, he brought in one three- 
 legged kitchen chair and a soap-box and gave his customers their 
 choice. Sir Jack announced that it was immaterial to him, whether 
 he went to a martyr's grave on a soap-box or milking stool, and he 
 was voted the soap-box. 
 
 Taking their positions, the unshaven were requested to prop 
 their feet on a cord of wood. With sad, silent, and solemn counte- 
 nances they looked up piteously into the face of the villain, who was 
 testing his razor on a piece of sheet-iron. Sir Reel asked if he 
 could leave a message to his family and friends, but the engineer 
 and fireman both declared that they could not delay the operation 
 any longer, for any further neglect of the engine and boilers might 
 ruin the whole shaving process by an explosion. 
 
 The horrible prospect was not endurable after the engineer had 
 kneaded lather over the faces of his victims for ten minutes and 
 checked their sobs by plastering liberal quantities of suds into their 
 mouths. The Sir Knights expelled the nasty stuff with a few un- 
 complimentary remarks but the outlaw knew no fear and stropped 
 his razor on his boot with renewed vigor. 
 
 Hovering over his first victim, Sir Reel, for six fearful seconds, 
 he swooped down upon him like the evil genius of destruction, while 
 Jack, on the soap-box, grasped his friend by the hand, and turned 
 away his tear-dimmed eyes to be spared the full horrors of the scene. 
 
 The first rake of the razor loosened the hide of the victim and 
 lifted him bodily from his seat. He stormed and remonstrated, 
 raved and demanded that the job be finished by the use of emery 
 paper rather than a meat-saw. The butchery continued in all its 
 fury but let us draw a curtain over the harrowing scene. Suffice to 
 say, that the victims endured the cruel inflictions with a courage and 
 
86 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 manliness that cannot help but enscroll their names upon the records 
 of the "Hero Fund." 
 
 As a final climax, the would-be assassin held a basin of water 
 under the chins of his victims and sprayed its contents over their 
 faces, into their bosoms and down their backs, under the mean 
 pretense of washing away the soap and blood. He followed this 
 by drying the features of his victims with what he termed a "towel," 
 but which might have been previously employed in drying over-oiled 
 sections of the engine. As the barber, in conclusion, made an effort 
 to comb the hair of his sufferers, they rebelled, declaring that it was 
 sufficient to be skinned without being scalped. Several members 
 of our party who by this time had been drawn to the scene of the 
 tragedy, assisted in caring for the wounded and removing them from 
 the battle-field. 
 
 After dinner, Mary Commandery of Philadelphia, arrived at 
 the hotel, and a more agreeable, companionable and brotherly and 
 sisterly party we never met throughout our whole pilgrimage. 
 They were viewing the park over a different route than the one 
 pursued by us, having entered by the North Gate. The one distinct 
 advantage they had over us was that they were not compelled to 
 stop at the inn on the border, either coming or going. 
 
 The hours that followed, about the spacious verandas and draw- 
 ing room, were among the most pleasant in our memories of the 
 entire trip. Music, song and laughter was general and ever present, 
 and all shared therein, in full accord. 
 
 One of the features of the evening was the rendition of a 
 musical, elocutionary, dramatic and literary program in which talent 
 of both Commanderies participated, with the exception of Bovard 
 and Gilchrist. The law and order committee very charitably agreed 
 that to allow "Bobbie" to sing would create too much jealousy 
 among the men, while the committee on the care of children thought 
 it inadvisable to allow "J oe " to make his first public appearance so 
 far away from home, although he agreed to sing that sentimental 
 soprano aria, "I want Santa Claus to Bring Me a Red Wagon." 
 
 After a time, when the dancers held the drawing room and the 
 spectators thronged the verandas and engaged in conversation and 
 laughter, "Bobbie" hit upon an ingenius scheme to aid some "noble 
 charity." 
 
 Passing among the members of the joyous party, "Bobbie" 
 made known his proposition. He had been given a watch. Its 
 worth could not be estimated because of its associations. The 
 present owner, finding himself in the midst of such an estimable 
 gathering, believed himself selfish to retain it, so he. decided to raffle 
 it, that its ownership might be determined without partiality. As 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 87 
 
 a mere matter of form, according to the progressive agent, the 
 chances were ten cents each ; the proceeds to go to a "noble charity." 
 
 There was a frantic rush to procure chances. In order not to 
 disappoint, many chances were sold several times over. As the 
 dimes began to accumulate in "Bobbie's" clothes, he was handi- 
 capped in moving about and making faster sales. 
 
 Finally the time for picking the winner came to hand. Every 
 safeguard was introduced to insure fairness. Fate chose that one 
 of the Philadelphia guests should be the proud owner of the trophy. 
 With great diplomacy and considerable ceremony, "Bobbie" escorted 
 the winner to the open door, made a neat presentation speech, and 
 handing him the watch, was lost in the darkness. 
 
 A hundred or more gathered about the winner as he unwrapped 
 the tissue paper with great care. When the time-piece was revealed, 
 a titter of laughter swelled into tumult, and the proud winner of a 
 moment before shrank to a victim of misapprehension. Meanwhile 
 a vigilence committee was appointed to wait on "Bobbie," provid- 
 ing he could be located within the Park. 
 
 The watch proved to be the remnant of a one-time active and 
 enthusiastic dollar time-piece. It was so much ashamed of itself 
 that it covered its face with its hands. It had evidently been the 
 victim of a recent catastrophe, for the glass was broken, the case 
 badly bent, and when but slightly moved, sections of the "works" 
 would rattle within. This only tended to prove what the announcer 
 had said before selling chances: "Its worth could not be estimated 
 because of its association." It had evidently been associated with 
 a trip-hammer. 
 
 The dance continued and laughter again held sway amid the 
 chattering of the onlookers. Gradually, as the hours of morning 
 hovered near, the members of the happy party dispersed one by 
 one, and sought their well-earned couches. As the dance floor, 
 which but a little while before was thronged with merry dancers, 
 became vacated, and the spacious porches which had held the joyous 
 Sir Knights and ladies became depleted, a few who remained be- 
 hind cast a sentimental glance over the scenes which a short time 
 before had rung with cheer, music and laughter, only to be suc- 
 ceeded by silence; and stepping out into the air they held com- 
 munion with the moon and twinkling stars in the stilly night. 
 
 Days such as the one which was closing are rare in a life-time. 
 So full of interest and lack of fatigue. For hours we plunged over 
 miles of roads, hills and valleys and through canyons, while laugh- 
 ing waters rushed and gushed and broke over falls round about us. 
 The deer, elk, eagle, bear and animals of lesser fame looked on as 
 
88 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 we completed our tour for the day. What audacity for these in- 
 truders to enter our domain, they seemed to ask. 
 
 Our views and study of the geyser formations impressed us 
 with their similarity in growth to mankind as expressed in bhakes- 
 peare's "Seven Ages of Man." First, as the babe sleeping close to 
 the bosom of Mother Earth, the airy wreath rises from the heated 
 clay; then comes the infant breathing stronger and at times puck- 
 ering in the nurse's arms, as the sprays splutter out of the earth; 
 third, the child simmering with impatience, as found in the pools ; 
 fourth, the youth whose occupation is to boil over, active and 
 aggressive, like the paint pots working with constant energy; fifth, 
 manhood as represented by the gushers rising in their maturity to their 
 greatest height; sixth, comes the age when action is but intermit- 
 tent ; and last, old age, when the tranquil pool, sleepy in its inactivity, 
 shows the last signs of life only to be eventually absorbed by the sun 
 and left to shrink and wither and crumble to dust. 
 
 We felt the peace of a summer night whose day sleeps with 
 open eyes. The full moon glistened on the white formations of the 
 geyser deposits, while the rays of the planets played in the spray 
 of the geyser streams. The effect was most beautiful to the eye 
 and inspiring to the soul, and appeared like the veil of a lacy rain- 
 bow shooting upwards. The night was pensive, soothing, cool and 
 exhilarating. A dreamy stillness filled the air suddenly the splash 
 of the geyser breaks the silence. Occasionally the "thud" would 
 proclaim the coming water eruption of the geyser by that name, it 
 bursted forth with a splash splash splash, and growled and 
 roared as it threw its fountain higher and higher in vain effort to 
 outdo its rivals. Together they rent the air in competition for the 
 baskings of the moon then all was silent as the waters again 
 sought the bowels of the earth and secretly gained strength for an- 
 other combat. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 89 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 E awoke early on the morning of Sunday, August 28, to find the 
 day a glorious one. There was a feeling of responsibility up- 
 on us as we realized that it was the Sabbath the day of hap- 
 piness and freedom from toil. But one can "break the Sab- 
 bath" in a hundred ways without sinning. We do not work on Sun- 
 day because the commandments forbid it we rest on Sunday be- 
 cause the commandments require it. It is in the definition of the 
 word "rest" that the contention lies. 
 
 We did not rest on this Sunday by secluding ourselves in quie- 
 tude, if this be the accepted manner of resting. We rested in the 
 bosom of glorious Nature, and in this rest witnessed and realized 
 the work of the Maker of all things and gloried in His achievement. 
 Probably in no other portion of this continent can the works of 
 Nature be seen in such variety as in Yellowstone National Park, 
 and as we were carried along from wonder to wonder the fulness 
 of our appreciation increased. 
 
 How quickly and surely isolation from the activities of the world 
 lead to forgetfulness, was illustrated by the fact that the drivers of 
 the stage coaches had no idea that the day was Sunday. Secluded 
 as they are in the vastness of the Park, they work day after day 
 without the thought of a calendar, and not until the passengers re- 
 minded them and made them acquainted with the fact that the day 
 was the Sabbath, did they know it. 
 
 The driving schedule does not permit of any lapse of time, and 
 as the drivers are compelled to mount the boxes and continue mo- 
 notonously over the same path daily, they not only lose sight of 
 the day of the week, but also the date of the month. All days are 
 alike to them, and what care they, for they have become sons of 
 the wild and find peace in their pastoral innocence. 
 
 As the passengers were assigned to the various coaches that 
 Sunday morning^ and the last one had driven away, a mathematical 
 problem presented itself that caused considerable anxiety among 
 four members of the party, and no little worry to the others. One 
 Sir Knight and three ladies of the party were left behind as the last 
 coach drove off. 
 
 In the usual mad rush of the drivers for the lead, the coaches 
 were well out of sight and hurrying further away with all the ef- 
 
90 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 fort of the mustangs, before the predicament was fully realized. 
 Inquiry for another coach brought the response that there was none 
 to be had. A previous count had demonstrated the fact that as 
 many coaches had left as had arrived with our party. Wherefore 
 then, the surplus of passengers? 
 
 Undesirous of being isolated in the Park with the other pil- 
 grims San Francisco bound, the stranded Sir Knight made a hasty 
 inquiry for a telegraph office and was agreeably surprised to find 
 one in the hotel. Without an instant's delay, he wired the manage- 
 ment of the coach company, probably 100 miles distant, telling of 
 the predicament, and making an urgent plea for another coach. 
 With "red-taped" leisureness the management wired back for "a 
 full and detailed report of how it happened." As this required 
 statement would mean an expression of about 1000 words, and as 
 the prevailing toll in the park was four cents a word, the Sir Knight, 
 with rare mathematical aptitude, figured that it would cost him 
 about $40, and realizing that horses could be bought in that wilder- 
 ness for about $10 each (if one was disinclined to go out and catch 
 a wild one) he decided to try a quicker means of relief. A second 
 thought also brought the conclusion that, although the detailed re- 
 port might have been satisfactory, that it would be tiresome to wait 
 until another coach could be brought from headquarters, 100 miles 
 away. 
 
 Leaving the ladies in the hotel where he provided for their 
 comfort, the Sir Knight sought the coach company's barn in the 
 rear of the hotel in hopes of securing a rig to carry the forsaken 
 to their friends. Beating his way through underbrush and far into 
 the woods in the dangerous vicinity in which we saw the unscrupu- 
 lous bears the night previous, the lonely Sir Knight eventually 
 came upon a hostler pitching hay in what appeared to be a barn. 
 Approaching the man with all possible grace the Sir Knight made 
 an eloquent plea for a horse, which surpassed any effort ever credit- 
 ed to Richard III. 
 
 Whether or not the stranger was agreeably impressed will 
 probably never be known, for he replied in a mixed and unintelligent 
 jargon, which appealed to the ear as a mixture of Slavonish, Chinese 
 and Greek. The stranger's speech did not give the slightest clue 
 of any one fixed modern tongue. After a disappointing search of 
 the shed to find that there was not a horse in sight, the Sir Knight 
 wended his way back through the woods dodging shadows for 
 bears. 
 
 Arriving at the hotel one of the overseers of the stage company 
 was found. His supervision was limited to the district embraced 
 within a radius of 50 miles and he had power to take official action. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 91 
 
 He was gruff in his manner, but by tactful approach was gracious 
 enough to listen to the story of the stranded troupe. He contend- 
 ed that the coach company was not in error that as many coaches 
 were provided as had arrived at the hotel. However, he finally con- 
 sented, in consideration of a $10 fee, to use his own rig and drive 
 the lost sheep back into the fold at the station ahead. This bar- 
 gain was cheerfully entered into, and starting two hours after the 
 last coach had left, the four forsaken gave chase after the advance 
 guard. The greeting that awaited them at the hands of the pil- 
 grims when they arrived was solicitous and impressive. Some 
 thought that the bears had eaten the missing quartet, while there 
 were others who believed that the Sir Knight had eloped with the 
 three ladies. 
 
 An investigation was at once started to learn how the surplus 
 of passengers was made possible, when as many coaches had left 
 Fountain as had arrived there the day previous. This mystery 
 was soon cleared up when it became known that two of the larger 
 coaches had been changed for smaller ones, making the gross ac- 
 commodation four less, and the four passengers who graciously saw 
 the other pilgrims seated first were left to themselves among the 
 geysers. This exchange of coaches was branded as a commercial 
 trick on the part of the two drivers to accommodate another 
 transient party, and after vigorous complaint the original coaches 
 were restored and the $10 fee was eventually refunded. 
 
 We had ridden for two hours through wild country and found 
 our happy meeting in the world-famous and unequaled "Faithful 
 Inn," probably the most picturesque tavern in the world. The drive 
 to the inn was over smooth roads and riding was most delightful. 
 Now and again a slight rain storm would come up, but never so 
 serious as to interfere with the pleasure of the trip. The stranded 
 quartet were favored with a fast team in a light barouch. The driv- 
 er reached into his vest pocket and brought forth the stump of a 
 cigar, about one inch in length, and setting his teeth firmly upon 
 it, found renewed energy which he applied to the horses. After 
 he carried the stump for a half-hour, the Sir Knight beside him 
 thought it would be Christian charity to give him a light, and forth- 
 with handed him a Wheeling stogie which he had just lighted. 
 The driver accepted it graciously and carefully returned his cigar 
 stump to his vest pocket. His sociability was unequaled for so 
 short an acquaintance. 
 
 Presently he brought the horses to a halt, and turning the lines 
 over to the Sir Knight with the request: "Pard, hold these a min- 
 ute," descended from the box and took a drink from a small pool, 
 by means of a tin can. When he returned his face bore a careworn 
 
92 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 look and appeared dejected. "I am sick," he declared. The strong 
 stogie was too much for him, and thereby was demonstrated the 
 fact that even a tenderfoot from Allegheny can sustain things which 
 the strenuous man of the west finds beyond his physique. 
 
 Our drive to "Old Faithful Inn" was through the Middle Gey- 
 ser Basin and along the Firehole River. Continuing, we came in 
 sight of Hell's Half Acre, a locality of 50 acres which is rife with 
 hot springs and geysers, and whose waters continually boil and 
 splutter and spout above the surface. Many legends are told as to 
 how Hell's Half Acre derived its name, but they all find their be- 
 ginning in the heated, sulphurous vomitings of 'the vicinity. 
 
 The whole basin is surrounded and bespecked with timbered 
 hills of pine, whose aroma is fragrant in contrast to the fumes of 
 sulphur and lime deposits which the wayfarer is compelled to sniff 
 almost continually. At the foot of the Half Acre is a lake whose 
 waters are bluish-green, but which shade into deposits of the 
 brightest of red as they flow down to the river. The great "Ex- 
 celsior" Geyser lies in the Middle Geyser Basin. It is of enormous 
 power but operates only at uncertain periods. When active, it 
 throws out such an immense amount of water as to double the 
 flow of the river. Its crater, which is 100 yards wide, is lined with 
 most beautiful colorings of sulphur deposits. The waters boil vio- 
 lently in the throat of the crater at all times and bubble and splut- 
 ter their way to a constant outflow almost incessantly. When rag- 
 ing, "Excelsior" Geyser throws a column of water 200 feet high. 
 
 Beyond the Half Acre to the west, and along our driveway, 
 lay a great acreage of seething hot springs and geysers which 
 grumble and steam like seething cauldrons that know no rest. The 
 place is uncanny, the footing treacherous, and the vicinity is the 
 hottest in the park. Furiously boiling waters and continued sprays 
 of varied volume, disrupted and crust-dried lime and sulphur de- 
 posits discolor vegetable growth within sight of the eye, and whiten 
 tree trunks as would a new coat of whitewash. 
 
 Suddenly an unusually large spurt of boiling water leaped into 
 the air. Even those far removed from any possibility of danger 
 shrank back in fear of an impromptu over-heated shower-bath. 
 This was the "Riverside" Geyser. Its crater was ragged and from 
 out of its slippery, slimy funnel the water rose and fell 10 feet at a 
 time, then bubbled and boiled over, driving away the spectators in 
 a scamper. 
 
 Following the desolate shores of the Firehole River for several 
 miles, we passed through a region of extinct geysers that was rife 
 with active hot springs, jets of spouting steam rising out of the lime 
 and sulphur crusted earth as far as the eye can see. 
 
Courtesy Northern Pacific Railroad. 
 
 OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER-YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
93 
 
 Beyond is the largest field of geysers on earth the Upper Gey* 
 ser Basin. Here are congregated a half hundred of the greatest 
 geysers in the world over a territory of two or three square miles. 
 Clouds of steaming water are continually shooting skyward, while 
 the sulphur-bespattered earth is saturated with the hot water which 
 is seeking its way from the geyser lips to the river. The paint pots 
 working constantly, knead their sulphurous paste from side to side, 
 and color the surface in variegated hues with their sputterings. 
 
 The pride of the Upper Geyser Basin, and the first geyser 
 which is shown visitors, is known as "Old Faithful." Its name was 
 given because of its reliability in spraying at an appointed time. 
 "Old Faithful" has a flat top, with a cone 200 feet in diameter which 
 rises towards the center about 20 feet. Steam is constantly escap- 
 ing, and as you approach, with the assurance that the next shot of 
 water will not occur until the scheduled time, rumblings and dull 
 explosions are heard beneath, while there is seemingly hollowness 
 which creates fear as one treads near the mouth of the crater. 
 
 Geysers all about rage and bellow, and make the air mist-like 
 with their skyward plunges. The almost constant battery of spurt- 
 ing streams of hot water, the restless paint pots, the ambitious and 
 ever active hot springs, the bellowings and rumblings underneath, 
 all seemed to indicate that some monstrous beast of the under- 
 world was raging and frothing in a mad effort to obtain release. 
 
 It was here at the edge of the Upper Geyser Basin and within 
 sight of "Old Faithful" geyser that we found "Old ^aithful Inn." 
 If ever the aims of a hotel builder in making a hostelry inviting to 
 prospective guests were realized, it was in the building of "Old 
 Faithful Inn." Built entirely of logs and used in their natural hewn 
 state, the hotel is at once unique and strikingly beautiful. Its long, 
 sloping roof which tapers down to almost the very ground, lends the 
 cheer of the Swiss cottage, while the pillars of hewn logs which sup- 
 port the main balconies lend a startling oddness which one learns to 
 adore. Not only without, but also within, the building is constructed 
 entirely of logs. Walls are formed of neatly matched tree trunks, 
 which have been stripped of their bark and varnished, while doors 
 and even window frames are constructed of the natural shaped wood. 
 From the wide and roomy office and lobby on the ground floor one 
 can look up through the building to the roof, the upper floors being 
 balconied. These balconies are in themselves most artistic, and like 
 all else in the construction of the house, are created from hewn logs 
 and branches. Their special attractiveness lies in the fact that the posts 
 and post-trimmings are perfectly matched and attest to the great labor 
 and time which must have been employed in seeking and obtaining 
 equal and almost identically shaped limbs and logs. The verandas, 
 
94 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 ballroom, reception rooms, rathskeller, parlors, dining-room in a 
 word, all the rooms in the house, even including the bed-rooms, were 
 constructed in natural shaped wood, while a cleanliness prevailed 
 that was faultless. 
 
 Huge knots in the logs added a rugged beauty, but the inconceiv- 
 able wonder was in the fact that the knots appeared in the wood- 
 work in symmetrical rotation, showing further ingenuity in matching 
 the natural wood. 
 
 Greeting us at the doorway of this picturesque hostelry was 
 "Larry," the manager. Everyone about the place, stranger, guest 
 and visitor, knew him only by that familiar name, and as his friendli- 
 ness left no room for formalities, we also knew him and learned to 
 like him as "Larry." "Larry's" hand-shake was a welcome in itself 
 and his verbal greeting given in a deep, hearty tone, left not the 
 vestige of doubt of his sincerity. Each and every member of our 
 party was greeted by the warm hand-shake of the cheerful and ac- 
 commodating host. 
 
 We were at once ushered into the dining-room to enter into com- 
 bat with our appetites. While the meal was in itself of sufficient 
 interest to appeal to us, we were fascinated by the rustic beauty of 
 the interior, with its walls, ceiling and every detail constructed from 
 trees in their own shape of growth, welded into one whole of artistic 
 grace. A novel feature that presented itself in the dining-room was 
 a huge and massive sideboard hewn out of petrified wood, which, in 
 its silence, told eloquently of the times when our prehistoric fathers 
 wandered through this garden of nature in the centuries of long ago. 
 
 Great fireplaces were found on every floor and were set deep 
 within the natural wood walls. Even in the construction of the doors 
 was the natural wood effect carried out, and from floor to floor, room 
 to room, and even door to door, there never seemed a monotony of 
 this feature which was ever interesting and especially pleasing in its 
 suggestion of comfort. 
 
 Ever and anon we met "Larry" hurrying to and fro through the 
 spacious building. Busy or not, he was ever ready to inquire into 
 the comfort of each and every guest, and his demeanor was always 
 so friendly that we found him quite as admirable as the very build- 
 ing itself. 
 
 After luncheon we strolled among the geysers and hot springs 
 in the vicinity of the hotel, under the direction of a guide. He was 
 evidently of foreign birth and as a test of his truthfulness would ac- 
 company every explanation with the invitation: "If you don't belief 
 it, dry it yourself." We believed him. 
 
 Scattered about us were mounds of extinct geysers; and while 
 they still steamed, had long since spent their force and were inactive. 
 
Courtesy Oregon Short Line R. R. 
 
 MIDDLE AND UPPER GEYSER BASIN, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 95 
 
 In a field of these aged and indigent, stood "Old Faithful" geyser. 
 We heard the rumbling and infallible symptoms of its eruption and 
 hastened thither. Steam jets were shooting forth with increasing 
 volume, and the internal confusion became greater. In a moment 
 the rumbling blended into rolling thunder and while in its highest 
 pitch of nervous growling and spraying, came the explosion, which 
 threw the water higher and higher into the air, until it attained a 
 column 150 feet in height the grand fountain was in play. 
 
 The stream inclined to the north, and as the wind carried dense 
 clouds of steam and sprays, huge splashes fell from the apex of the 
 fountain upon the northward side of the cone which formed the 
 geyser mouth. Unsatisfied in her effort, nature lends color to the 
 scene by the aid of the sun, in painting beautiful rainbows upon the 
 spraying waters. 
 
 "Old Faithful," true to its name, rises out of its subterranean 
 depths every 63 minutes, to the minute, operates for five minutes at a 
 height of 150 feet, then gradually recedes to about 30 feet. After 6 
 minutes have elapsed, the geyser, in one concentrated dying effort, 
 hurls forth a column 50 feet high and sinks back far down into the 
 depths of the earth, to lie in repose until it has accumulated renewed 
 energy in the customary interval of 63 minutes. 
 
 After the geyser has spent its wrath, one can look down into the 
 mouth with every degree of safety providing the look does not re- 
 quire the allotted 63 minutes. As the eye penetrates the draughts of 
 steam which pour out of the geyser mouth, one can see far down into 
 the rocky recesses. Pools of water of transparent blue are left in the 
 rock cleft pockets within the cone. The outer crust of the mouth is 
 hard, brittle and porous, and less sulphurous than those of other 
 geysers. 
 
 The geysers of the Upper Basin form the waters of the Firehole 
 River and pour 10,000,000 gallons into that stream daily. As we 
 strolled about to the northward we meet the "Beehive" geyser whose 
 tube is high. It is enclosed by a pile of geyserite formation, which 
 from its appearance, gives the name "Beehive." Near by is a vent, 
 which acting like a safety valve, shoots forth jets of steam before each 
 eruption and thereby gives warning to inquisitive explorers. The 
 spray of the "Beehive" attains a height of 200 feet. It operates but 
 once or twice a day, usually at night. 
 
 Nearby are the "Turban," "Lion," "Lioness" and their two cubs, 
 and a little to the eastward is the "Giantess." The Lion group is of 
 uncertain action and of small volume in comparison to the other 
 geysers. 
 
 The "Giantess," however, is worthy of the name. Seated upon 
 her throne on the summit of a mound 50 feet high, this geyser presents 
 
96 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 a depressed crater 18 by 24 feet, which is usually filled with dark-blue 
 water. In other words, the "Giantess" is a most unfortunate woman 
 in that she has no mouth though in the language of the geyser 
 biographers, "her lips are very broad and fiat." 
 
 Being so large she naturally moves slowly, and operates only at 
 intervals, averaging every two weeks. But when the "Giantess" 
 rises in her dignity she must be heard and usually is heard. Pre- 
 vious notice of bursting anger is given by violent boiling and internal 
 rumbling which terminate with an explosion that is terrific, and which 
 at times shakes the hotel far removed, and frightens the inhabitants. 
 Her sprays attain a height of 250 feet and operations usually con- 
 tinue throughout an entire day. The spray of the "Giantess" is as 
 wide as her crater, and through the center can be seen distinct jets 
 forcing their way through the water-spout. 
 
 Across the river is the "Castle," so named because of its castel- 
 lated construction. Its action is uncertain, varying from once a day 
 to every other day, and it throws a column of water 150 feet in height, 
 which continues about 40 minutes and then tapers off in a series of 
 insignificant spurts. Scattered about are geysers of small size and 
 lesser force, which operate usually in sympathy with the larger 
 geysers. 
 
 The "Grand" geyser operates with great power and force, and 
 when ready to spray, causes the earth to tremble while the internal 
 thumpings and rumblings are fearful and threatening. Sucking in the 
 water reposing in its crater, the geyser shoots forth in a solid column 
 200 feet high, with steam rising in clouds above. 
 
 The water spout of the "Grand" seems to be composed of a com- 
 bination of numerous separate jets which fall back into the funnel- 
 shaped crater with a thunderous report at successive intervals. The 
 "Saw-Mill" (rather insignificant) has a tube six inches in diameter. 
 Its water column, thrown 40 feet high, gives the peculiar sound of a 
 saw, caused by the puffs of steam ejected alternately with the water 
 jets. 
 
 The "Wash Tubs," small basins with diameters of about 10 feet 
 and whose bottoms are lined with orifice, are nearby. If clothes or 
 any foreign matter is put into these basins, the washing process is 
 industriously carried out, then suddenly, water, clothes and all, are 
 sucked down into the deep recesses of the basins. After a time the 
 water reappears and back come the clothes. 
 
 The "Devil's Well" nearby is a broad basin of ever boiling 
 water of a beautiful blue cast. It often serves the purpose for tour- 
 ists to boil eggs, potatoes and other articles of food in its steaming 
 waters. The "Comet" geyser stands near the well. It explodes several 
 times during the day but its spray never attains great height. 
 
Courtesy Northern Pacific Railroad. 
 
 THE GIANT GEYSER-YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 97 
 
 The "Giant" is the great geyser of the Upper Basin. Its cone 
 stands upon almost level surface and is broken and irregular in shape. 
 A glance into its interior discloses formations and deposits of beau- 
 teous hues and of iridescent splendor. Brilliant colors representing 
 hundreds of shades, interblend in making the lining attractive. 
 
 The "Giant," like the majority of geysers, is uncertain in action 
 but usually operates every fourth day. A vent in its side and the 
 action of numerous "Little Devils" located nearby, gives ample notice 
 of the rising fury of the "Giant." When the monster does break 
 loose he holds sway 90 minutes. The outburst comes like a tornado, 
 and the water that gushes forth doubles the flow of the river during 
 its operation. Its column rises to a height of 250 feet and is eight 
 feet in diameter. The water bursts forth in a sea of steam that per- 
 vades the whole valley and holds a perfectly erect position during 
 operation. 
 
 The "Catfish" and "Grotto" are geysers in the immediate vicinity 
 which are of odd and irregular formation but vigorous spouters, 
 though their waters reach no great altitude. 
 
 The "Fan" geyser is well named. It has five tubes which are 
 spread out symmetrically, and during an eruption they give the ap- 
 pearance of an open fan. The center tube throws a spout 100 feet 
 high and operations occur three or four times a day and continue 15 
 minutes. 
 
 The "Splendid" spouts 200 feet into the air every three hours 
 and continues in action about 10 minutes. The "Pyramid" and 
 "Punch Bowl" have ceased operation. The first has become merely a 
 steam jet, while the latter is a serrated-edged mound within which 
 rests an elegant pool of deep blue water. 
 
 "Morning Glory Spring" is a marvelously tinted pool, shaped and 
 colored in great similarity to the flower after which it is named. 
 Its outer edges rest level with the surface of the ground and bear a 
 rich, variated blend of pink. Tapering towards the center, rich 
 shades of purple and blue interblend until the center is reached, where 
 the bottomless hole finds its way into the depths of the earth bearing 
 a purple-black hue. 
 
 These geysers attain a boiling point of 250 degrees at a depth of 70 
 feet when in a state of activity, and the steam so suddenly generated 
 gives the necessary force to lift the great spouts of water out of the 
 depths of the earth to the surface. 
 
 Government soldiers patrol the geyser fields as a protection to 
 the geysers. Their particular function is to prevent curio seekers from 
 demolishing the cones and chipping them, or otherwise disturbing 
 the natural trend of the geysers. Another special duty of these 
 
 (7) 
 
98 A; MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 guardsmen is to prevent sight-seers from throwing foreign matter 
 into the craters. The geysers do not like to be fed and show great 
 resentment at having articles thrown into their mouths. They be- 
 come especially indignant and furious if given soap. Their resent- 
 ment of soap is a great peculiarity of the geyser, though they are 
 rather human in this. It is a well founded and established fact that 
 if soap is thrown into the mouth of an active geyser, it rages and 
 becomes inconsolable for a whole day. It seems to weaken their 
 stomachs and acts as a powerful emetic, causing them to hurl forth 
 all that has accumulated in their depths. It must be admitted, with 
 a degree of humiliation, that no member of our party had any soap. 
 Hence we sought no opportunity to evade the guardsmen and satisfy 
 our curiosity. 
 
 Slowly and reluctantly we left the geyser fields, and in obedience 
 to the call of the* falling shades of evening, made our way back to the 
 hotel. Several members of the party (none of the ladies) desired the 
 services of a barber. History repeats itself. No barber shop found 
 place in the otherwise complete hostelry. Again the unshaven were 
 directed to the boiler room and left to the mercies of the engineer 
 and fireman. 
 
 It is not the intent of the writer to strike pity in the hearts of the 
 reader, nor encourage tears and inconsolable sorrow. So we will 
 refrain from a minute description of the suffering and tortures of the 
 bearded while they were being shaven. Suffice to say, we identified 
 each victim that entered the boiler room by a number, so as to avoid 
 any difficulty in recognizing him when he returned. Meanwhile, 
 other members of the party plucked wild flowers as a fitting tribute 
 in case of necessity. 
 
 With the same charity as was manifested at the Fountain hotel, 
 the bears in the vicinity of "Old Faithful Inn" were fed in a like 
 manner ; from the garbage heap in the rear of the hotel. In order to 
 draw a correct comparison of the devouring ability of these bears 
 with the others, we viewed the feeding with interest. The greater 
 majority of guests at this garbage banquet were blacks bears, and 
 surely did justice to the spread. However, while in the midst of a 
 course, before dessert had been served, a huge grizzly strode majes- 
 tically into sight, and without an effort conquered and took individual 
 possession. The black bears scattered in fright at the approach of 
 this monarch, who was gracious enough to delay his entry until the 
 other species of his family had at least a munch or two though he 
 did not give them opportunity for the customary formality of de- 
 livering after-dinner speeches. 
 
 It was a source of great pleasure to us to again meet our Fraters 
 and friends from Mary Commandery at the hotel. They had 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 99 
 
 traveled in our wake and reached the hotel several hours after our 
 arrival. Greetings were hearty and cordial on all sides, and pre- 
 viously made friendships were cemented more strongly, if that were 
 possible. 
 
 The gathering at dinner was a large and enthusiastic one. The 
 coziness of the oddly constructed dining-room lent zest to the ap- 
 petite and conversation. We were served by waitresses in quaint and 
 comely attire and of pleasant personality. They were young women 
 far above the station of those who usually serve in that capacity; 
 for many school teachers and women of like vocation take the op- 
 portunity of so earning a pleasant summer vacation within the Yel- 
 lowstone National Park. 
 
 The dress of the waitresses were so attractive that the writer, in 
 his unfamiliarity of technical makeup of ladies' garments, or the 
 welding process necessary to wrought them into shape, appealed to 
 Sir Heckel for a description, and the latter took special pride in being 
 able to talk intelligently upon the subject. According to Sir Heckel 
 the gowns conformed to this description : 
 
 "They were simple foulard gros de laine trimmed with lemon- 
 colored orange blossoms a la Merode. Overskirts of embroidered 
 cheese-cloth hung loosely from the waist and were cut bias about the 
 accordion-plaited skirt binding. Facings of hemstitched petit polo- 
 naise, with insertions, were draped about the shoulders and basted to 
 the back, upon which flourished a liberal crop of hooks and eyes." 
 
 While the writer has not the ability of Sir .Heckel to enter into a 
 discussion of the artistic merits of this combination, he can at least 
 attest to the fact that the waitresses looked especially alluring and 
 fascinating in this attire. 
 
 After dinner the guests distributed themselves about the great 
 drawing-room, verandas, porches and grounds, and entered into the 
 enjoyment of an evening that inscribed itself indelibly upon our mem- 
 ories. One member of the Mary Commandery was a clergyman, and 
 he presided during a short devotional service, after which a concert 
 and recital was given by members from both parties. We had some 
 talent with us that was not publicly displayed upon this occasion, 
 and to save Sirs Gilchrist and Burry and Aberli from any unnecessary 
 humiliation, we will not mention names. 
 
 One of the features of the evening was offered by a viewing of 
 the eruption of "Old Faithful" geyser by searchlight, with which the 
 hotel was equipped. The sight was one that beggars description. 
 As the great light shot out from the tower of the hostelry, it uncere- 
 moniously revealed the bears in the woods. How they scattered and 
 scampered off under the rays of the powerful light was a source of 
 great amusement. 
 
100 A MERRY CRUSADE TO' THE GOLflDEN GATE 
 
 The curio store is ever present and found special attraction at 
 "Old Faithful Inn," with its offerings of the many-colored sands from 
 the canyon geyser deposits, and photographs of the odd and novel 
 hotel. 
 
 With the diligence of the faculty of a ladies' seminary, the hotel 
 management orders lights extinguished after a certain hour. But to 
 guide the belated wayfarer, candles were lighted and placed about in 
 nooks especially in the walls and pillars for that purpose. The effect 
 was beautiful as the lights cast their soft rays upon the natural 
 wooded walls and the interior. A watchman patroled the building 
 with lantern swung upon his arm, and added additional romance to 
 the scene. A pilgrim was seated in a broad arm chair, concluding a 
 letter to a far-off friend or relative when the lights were extinguished, 
 and with an accommodation that prevailed among all attaches of the 
 house, the watchman placed a few candles upon the arm of his chair, 
 so that the letter-writer's signature might find the proper place upon 
 the letter sheet. 
 
 One by one the pilgrims had found their resting places for the 
 night. If such a thing were possible, our apartments were too allur- 
 ing and comfortable for sleep. In accord with the construction 
 scheme of the whole house, the walls and doors and everything per- 
 taining to the sleeping apartments was constructed of wood in its 
 natural state. The effect was so pleasing to the eyes that it was diffi- 
 cult to close them. 
 
 As we viewed the cheerfulness of the room, the pleasures and 
 activities of the day were reviewed in our minds and the mysteries 
 of the marvels of nature became further mystifying until relieved by 
 sleep. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 HE pilgrims were all early risers on the morning of Monday, 
 August 29. When we beheld the odd walls of the Woodland 
 Hotel we were quickly conscious of our whereabouts and the 
 glad memories of the preceding day were instantly refreshed. 
 Enthused with the vigor that saturates the early riser in Yellow- 
 stone Park, we responded quickly to a sunrise call to breakfast and 
 ate heartily and gossiped cheerfully. 
 
 Promptly at 7 :30 o'clock our coaches were lined up and in wait- 
 ing for the drive of the day, which was to find its termination at the 
 Yellowstone Lake. The usual anxiety prevailed in making sure that 
 all baggage was ready for conveyance and that no companion would 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 101 
 
 again be stranded. Just as we were assured that everything was 
 ready for the start, a misunderstanding occurred in which Mr. Joseph 
 Null and Sir McFarland were most deeply interested. 
 
 Mr. Null was perplexed and hatless. The latter condition gave 
 reason for the former. Some person had taken his cap. Even the 
 bears were suspected for you know bears are always bare-headed. 
 Sir McFarland was known to have worn a hat on the previous even- 
 ing, while on this gladsome morn he wore a cap that was nowise un- 
 like the one which Mr. Null missed. But as McFarland, as we already 
 know, was the only man in the party equipped with the good book, the 
 investigation was not carried so far. Realizing the sedate mannerisms 
 of the latter, he was not cross-examined but in voluntary testimony 
 admitted that his hat had also been taken and preaching from the text: 
 "He helps those who help themselves," admitted that he had come in 
 possession of the cap he wore by contact. However, what threatened 
 to become a case for Government investigation, inasmuch as the al- 
 leged connivance was hatched on Government territory, became 
 averted by Sir McFarland gracefully and charitably offering cover- 
 ing for the head of a fellow-being by giving Mr. Null the cap which 
 was his, while another Sir Knight presented Sir McFarland with an 
 auxiliary headgear. 
 
 As we stood ready to enter the coaches, our royal host "Larry" 
 rushed out among us and bade each and every member of the party 
 goodbye with a hearty hand-shake that had a warmth which came 
 straight from the heart. With a word of best wishes he assisted us 
 into the coaches and with the crack of the whip, a command or two 
 from the drivers and a rousing hurrah from the members of our 
 party mingled with those of the guests of the hotel whom we were 
 leaving behind, the mustangs pranced high into the air and then shot 
 forward to speed over the roadways to the end of the day's travel. 
 
 The route pointed to the east and through the heart of the 
 Rocky Mountains until the trail leads out on the West Thumb of 
 Yellowstone Lake. Owing to the winding roadway necessary to 
 span the mountains, the Continental Divide was tvvice crossed on the 
 way, and a curious loop was made to the northward, the second cross- 
 ing being at an elevation of 8,500 feet. 
 
 In the far distance the Grand Tetons were visible, as the driver 
 halted and pointed majestically with his whip. We could see a dim, 
 vapor-like outline, bracketed in the clouds. It had the appearance 
 of a silvery-white lining of a fair blue sky and seemed as mist rather 
 than reality. 
 
 Following a slowly descending trail we reached West Thumb 
 station and caught the first glimpse of the Yellowstone Lake. The 
 lake is at 7,740 feet elevation and has a coast-line of 150 miles. 
 
102 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GAJTE 
 
 The lake has indented bays in its western and southern shores, 
 which give it an irregular outline very similar to the form of the 
 human hand. There are five of these bays and they are known as 
 the "Thumb" and "Fingers." The "Thumb" is the widest of these 
 bays and as our stop was on the western shore of the bay bearing 
 that name, the station is known as "West Thumb." This station 
 has for its chief attraction a lunch room ; a long, one-story frame 
 building, neatly equipped and clean, and we were served with a plain 
 but satisfying luncheon. The pilgrims as a whole found no startling 
 innovation at West Thumb lunch station, although Sir Beckert was 
 forced to admit that he had lived a hand-to-mouth existence during 
 his eventful career, but had never before been forced to take food 
 from the thumb. 
 
 While there is a certain degree of appropriateness in designating 
 Yellowstone Lake and its bays as a hand with five fingers, because of 
 the number of its bays, it must be admitted with truth that the hand 
 is deformed and distorted. It is probably for this reason that it 
 does not wear the wedding ring. 
 
 The "Thumb" is wider than it is long; the forefinger is detached 
 and shriveled; the middle finger gives indication of having been 
 dislocated or victimized in some painful catastrophe, while the "little 
 finger" is in truth the largest finger of all. The combination there- 
 fore, presents a hand that no bachelor visitor might be expected to 
 plead for. 
 
 After luncheon we paid a short visit to the paint pots and hot 
 springs in the immediate vicinity. On the very edge of the lake itself, 
 and spreading out into its very waters, is an actual geyser crater 
 whose waters boil, and seethe, and bubble over, and run into the 
 cool waters of the lake. 
 
 There is an old story told visitors that a fisherman can stand 
 upon the bank of the lake and catch fish, turn about and drop them 
 into the crater while still on the line and then detach them ready 
 to serve caught and boiled while you wait, as it were. This op- 
 portunity presents itself by the provisions of nature, but the 
 only doubt that rises in the mind of the patient listener of this 
 story is whether or not he has cultivated the necessary appetite to 
 make fresh caught and boiled fish palatable, when thoroughly 
 seasoned by the brimstone and sulphur which the geyser crater 
 offers gratis during the boiling operation. 
 
 The surface about West Thumb is a waste of volcanic ashes 
 through which vegetation is only now beginning to struggle. Here 
 and there are cavities bearing many-colored watermarks around 
 their rims and filled with muddy deposits. These signs mark the 
 tombs of one-time active geysers and tell the tale, even after death, 
 
UPPER GEYSER BASIN TO THE LAKE-YELLOWSTONE 
 
 '.riy Oregon Short Line R. R. 
 
 NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 i Jackson Lake and Teton Mountains. 2 Obsidian Cliff ( Volcanic Glass). 3 The Teton Range. 4 Elk. 5 Emi- 
 grant Peak. 6 Buffalo. 7 Tourists Among the Bears. 8 Bear " A La Cart.'' 9 Amid the Spray and Roar.. 10 Yel- 
 lowstone Lake, n Lake Hotel. 12 Hayden Valley, between Lake and Falls. 13 Golden Gate, East Entrance. 14 Road 
 to Yellowstone Canyon. 15 Bridge near Grand Canyon. 16 Eagle Nest Rock, Gardner River. 17 Golden Gate Canyon. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 103 
 
 that their crevices, too, have nursed the tossed and turbulent blue 
 waters, which in the days gone by filled them to the brim and flowed 
 over their lips. Notwithstanding the ravages of old age and disability, 
 the scene has not been robbed of its extraordinary mystery and 
 beauty. 
 
 The air rings with the rhapsodies of the raging paint pots, with 
 their splutterings, tossings, growlings, rumblings and splashings. 
 The hot, soft clay is coated in many hues and blends flawless 
 white, yellow-white, red, blue, gray, pink, pale green and composite 
 shades, all muddled and mixed in a splendor that dazzles the eye. 
 Several companions carried off lumps of this many-colored clay, 
 but in a half-hour it had dried into lime-dust and could be blown 
 away into nothingness, in true fable fashion. 
 
 Re-entering our coaches, we were driven over a rocky and hilly 
 road. Just as the path became rockiest and when traveling became 
 least comfortable, we reached a point where we obtained a better 
 and clearer view of the lake than had before presented itself, and 
 we lost the discomforts of riding in our observations. 
 
 Suddenly the pathway took a downward trend, then sloped sharply. 
 The roads were newly made and the rains caused them to be muddy 
 and holding. Oft-times we rode on the two side wheels of the coach, 
 while the passengers clutched the seat posts and each other in fran- 
 tic efforts to stay within. Down and up we rolled and tossed like 
 a rudderless ship afloat on the wild wave. 
 
 As we rode onward the scenery became less attractive for a time. 
 The shores of the lake bore uninteresting and uniform slopes and 
 were lined with marshes and pine trees. Occasionally the monotony 
 was relieved by tiny islands which dotted the blue waters, while at 
 times waterfowl would hover over the marshes in large numbers. 
 
 For two or three hours we jogged along, up and down, over 
 the road that skirts the lake, with a dim and dream-like picture of 
 a watery expanse, veiled by the pines, before us. Gradually a 
 sprinkling rain that had been falling upon us took courage and de- 
 veloped into a heavy downpour. It quickly changed to hail, which 
 fell in such density as to screen everything from view but the near- 
 est objects. The dampened air became chilly and uncomfortable 
 it was more than chilly, it was cold. 
 
 We wrapped ourselves in gayly colored blankets, which slowly 
 but surely turned pale after sighting the weather elements. In 
 other words, the colors ran from the blankets in fear of the hail and 
 rain, and when we removed them, we found the red and the blue and 
 green and yellow sheltered under the blankets themselves, and 
 pressed into our own wearing apparel. 
 
 The seasoned drivers sat unsheltered on the top of the coaches, 
 
104 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 allowing themselves to become water-soaked without a miurmur of 
 complaint, and if they gave any indication of their feelings, they 
 seemed to like it. It settled the dust on their clothes. 
 
 After a time, when we had entered a valley, the storm began to 
 abate, but it remained cool and misty and the waters of the lake be- 
 came rough. Presently a vast, black cloud on the opposite side of the 
 lake, and to our right, dissolved, and uncurtained mountains of 
 grand proportions and soaring loftiness. They were black as the 
 night, with the exception of their snow-capped summits. 
 
 Their appearance surprised us, for we had supposed that there 
 was naught behind that low-hung blanket of sable cloud but level 
 valleys. What we had mistaken for fleeting glimpses of dark clouds 
 were in reality patches of snowy crest shredded into rents by the 
 drifting dark clouds. 
 
 Presently the Lake Hotel loomed into view and at 4:30 o'clock 
 in the afternoon we pulled up to its entrance, tired after the rough 
 ride and rougher weather, but joyful and anxious to get under its 
 sheltering roof and enjoy its hospitality. 
 
 The hotel was of rich artistic beauty and is the largest in the 
 park. Its architecture is of Colonial type and the entrance with 
 its wide porch and massive, high columns, is not unlike the entrance 
 to the White House. The hotel is very roomy throughout and its 
 long and wide corridor on the main floor was inviting and com- 
 fortable. 
 
 Shortly after our arrival, Sir Beckert startled us by announc- 
 ing that he was going fishing in the lake, because he had been taught 
 that the fish were more susceptible after a rainstorm than at 
 any other time. He started out with the best wishes of the entire 
 party, and special instructions not to allow his fishing ambitions to 
 interfere with his truth-telling. He returned an hour later with an 
 enormous fish. He refused to tell where he bought it. Nevertheless, 
 it was of such alluring aspect that all appetites at once became 
 sharpened, only to be disappointed by the announcement that it was 
 to be given over to the hotel chef for preparation for breakfast in the 
 morning. 
 
 After a satisfying dinner, we were agreeably surprised to find 
 our fraters and friends of Mary's Commandery drilling on the 
 spacious verandas of the hotel, fitting themselves for their showing at 
 the Conclave. 
 
 The evening was spent in glorious entertainment among our 
 old friends; music, dancing, laughter and good cheer were the di- 
 versities. Not to be outdone by opposition, this hotel also had its 
 patronage of bears, who found their way to the garbage heap with 
 the same aptitude as their brethren at the Faithful Inn and Fountain 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 105 
 
 Hotel. The night was raw and cold, and few ventured outside of 
 the cheerful and inviting hostelry. A few of the boldest took short 
 walks in the vicinity of the hotel and lake. Then the soft gloam- 
 ing, with the spectacle of the dying lights of day playing about the 
 crests and pinnacles of the still and solemn upper realm of the sleep- 
 ing mountains on the opposite side of the lake, created a contrast 
 that offered a text for talk. 
 
 There was no sound but the dulled, complaining waves of the 
 lake and the echo of the laughter and merriment of those within the 
 hotel. On the outside the spirit that prevailed was one of deep, 
 pervading peace. On a fair day or night it must be beautiful, but on 
 such a night as we experienced one might dream his life tranquilly 
 away and not miss it, or mind it when it was gone. 
 
 The day had departed with the small installment paid by the sun, 
 and a cool, almost wintry night came with the stars. Back to the 
 hotel a final smoke on the veranda facing the waters and mountains 
 a summing up of the day's events; then within the hotel an hour 
 or two to think and talk it over, or perhaps a few stories to relate. 
 A final "good night," "good night" and to bed, with drowsy brains 
 harassed with a mad panorama that mixes up pictures of paint pots, 
 of geysers, of pools, of hot springs and of the lake and of home, in 
 grotesque and bewildering disorder. Then a melting away of dear 
 familiar faces, of scenes, of the hail and rain, the tumble and toss 
 over new made roads, and of the boisterous waves of the lake in- 
 to a great calm of forgetfulness and peace and after which the 
 nightmare. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 'RESH, invigorating breezes from the lake rejuvenated the 
 early rising pilgrims on the morning of Tuesday, August 30. 
 The first call of the breakfast bell found a ready response. 
 Sir Beckert beamed with delight in keen anticipation of the 
 kingly morsel he felt he had in store in the serving of the massive 
 fish, which it was alleged he had caught on the preceding evening. 
 
 When the first course was served Frederick merely whetted his 
 appetite for the feast and graciously promised those seated at his 
 table a share of the fish if their conduct deserved it. He playfully 
 tapped his fingers on the table to some tune while awaiting the tooth- 
 some dish, but when the second course was served the fisherman grew 
 
106 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 anxious. The third and fourth courses were passed along, and still 
 no fish; Sir Beckert could only be quieted by having his attention 
 drawn to the peals of laughter coming from another table. The 
 climax came when the waiter anxiously inquired if there was "any 
 thing else?" Then Sir Beckert rose to his highest declamatory 
 ability and in the pure Shakespearean inquired: "Where is my 
 fish?" 
 
 The waiter shook his apron and admitted he did not have it. 
 He scurried off into the kitchen at the command of the disappointed 
 fisherman, while continued laughter from the other end of the room 
 seemed to mock the dramatic effect of the scene. 
 
 "The fish has already been served," announced the breathless 
 waiter upon his return, whereupon there was a scurry of fleeing diners 
 from the table at the other end of the room. 
 
 The mystery was solved! Some ingenious and fish-devouring 
 member of our party had informed the chef what table should be 
 decorated by the carcass of the fish and when Sir Beckert viewed 
 the remains there was nothing left for him but the "wish-bone." 
 
 In the rain, hail and cold of the preceding day our impressions 
 were not flattering. We thought the lake not very attractive. 
 On this early morning we were free to confess that we had erred 
 somewhat in our judgment, though not very materially. 
 
 The east, whose opal tints we had previously noted, had 
 changed to tender rose and was now inundated with the flames of 
 the sun, whose disc we began to perceive above the mountain tops. 
 
 The lake looked like an immense mirror calm and beautiful. 
 To the right it reflected the mountain scenery while waterfowl 
 chirped and flew about for an hour or more. Gradually the spectacle 
 grew in magnificence as the beauty of the morn unfolded itself, 
 and like the birds, we felt inclined to raise our voices in song. 
 
 About 9 o'clock we started upon the day's journey, which was 
 to find its wonderful climax at the Grand Canyon. The road lay 
 along the Yellowstone River, which has its source in Bridger Lake 
 to the southeast of the park, and flows northward through a broad 
 valley between generally snow-capped mountain ridges of volcanic 
 origin, some of whose peaks rise to an elevation of 11,000 feet. 
 
 It is a sluggish stream with heavy timbered banks, much of 
 the initial valley being marsh. The river flows into Yellowstone 
 Lake from whence we started. The road was generally smooth and 
 led up and down over a succession of hills. Here and there the 
 path was narrow, but the horses were accustomed to the path and 
 never left it, while the drivers found ample time to entertain them- 
 selves and their passengers. 
 
 So closely did the coaches follow each other at times that the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 10T 
 
 horses of the coach in the rear would socially project their noses 
 into the rear of the coach in front, while the drivers would stand upon 
 their seats and shout to one another in continued conversation. 
 When the top of a hill was reached we would go flying down the other 
 side, with no change in the program. In this manner we went 
 whizzing down a long incline with nobody in a position to know 
 whether or not we were bound to destruction. 
 
 Amidst jesting, singing and laughter, our conversation would 
 constantly revert to the anticipation of the scenes we were to be- 
 hold within the next hour or two. Our drivers and friends had told 
 us of the wonders of the Grand Canyon, which neither pen nor brush 
 could adequately portray in splendor. We had heard of the preci- 
 pices that seem to rise straight up out of the bowels of the earth; 
 the falls with their roar of thunder, dashing into the canyons below; 
 the eagles' nests perched upon the dizzy heights of the precipice 
 eaves, and the rainbow-tinted sands and rocks that bedeck the canyon 
 sides. We had heard the stories of the beautiful cascade that leaps 
 from the rugged heights, robed in a powdery spray, ruffled with 
 foam and girdled with a rainbow. We longed to look upon these 
 things, for to look upon them, they told us, was to look upon the 
 last possibility of the sublime and the enchanting. 
 
 It was because of this that we talked chiefly of the pleasures 
 that were to come. If we were conscious of any impatience, it was 
 to get there in favorable season ; if we felt any anxiety it was that 
 the day might remain perfect and serve us a flawless gaze upon 
 these marvels when they were at their best. 
 
 The road carried us near a field of mud geysers, which spluttered 
 in nervous restlessness. Then we passed down through Hayden 
 Valley, on and on in proximity of the Sulphur Mountains. Flowers 
 poked out their heads along the water's edge, some entirely new to 
 us while others greeted us as old acquaintances. Soon we arrived 
 at a large, magnificent bridge whose great archway spanned a beau- 
 tiful valley. We drove over the structure and then then we ar- 
 rived at the very edge of the mighty cliff that stands as Nature's 
 fitting monument to her own glory the Grand Canyon of the 
 Yellowstone ! 
 
 Astonished beyond the most fanciful anticipation, we gazed 
 down upon a panorama in the marvelously beautiful canyon; a deep 
 gorge where a glance sweeps from the rocky heights to a valley so 
 confined, so sombre, so solemn and beautiful. 
 
 We stood at the very top of the canyon at a place where, after 
 continually rising, a superb sheet of water found release and 
 fell with a dash and a roar, while on either side the rocky flanks 
 steamed with foam. We ventured so near that we were smitten 
 
108 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 with a desire to place our hands into the water and touch the roar- 
 ing current. 
 
 The waters cried out with a roar as they made their first leap, 
 but the cry of fright and fear of injury was smothered in the depth 
 of the fall embedded far below. We could scarcely move for pleas- 
 ure and surprise, we seemed spell-bound by the grandeur which the 
 canyon revealed. Everything swayed the spectator. 
 
 We leaned upon a wooden rail nearby, which trembled under 
 our weight, and charmed by the aspect, we went to the extremity 
 of the rail then we leaned against the giant rocks that seemed to 
 speak in thunderous tones, and raged with effervescing foam emitting 
 from their mouths, as the falls coursed on in their mad, downward 
 flight. 
 
 Here the sight became more threatening as we stood nearer to 
 the frightful, plunging waters. The forbidding but splendid abyss 
 angrily threw a shower of pearls in the face of those who dare ven- 
 ture near. One becomes enchanted and speechless, and it is repul- 
 sive to be spoken to and to have inspiration shattered as one gazes 
 and listens to Nature's continuous extravaganza in the music, the 
 song, the cry, the roar, the thunder, the lightning of the storm-chariot, 
 the pyrotechnics of the waters, when, suddenly, after a persistent 
 gaze, the onlooker feels as if the world had turned upside down. 
 
 After allowing ourselves sufficient time to admire the prospect 
 of the magnificent falls, we re-entered our coaches and drove along 
 the edge of the precipice to "Point Lookout." 
 
 On reaching the lip of the cliff and peering over the dizzy 
 heights, (from a point of general vantage superior to that at the 
 falls) the wonderful and unique character of the magnificent canyon 
 burst upon us. It is a hopeless task to endeavor to convey in words 
 an idea of the scene that lay before us, since, as was remarked on 
 the spot, an accomplished painter, even by a series of views studded 
 with the jewels of his heart, could but impart a faint impression of 
 the glorious sight; for to obtain the color effects he would have to 
 dip his brush in the hues of the rainbow and allow the moisture to 
 dry upon the canvas with his own breath, while his soul was en- 
 tranced with awe, and the spirit of inspiration animated his very 
 being. 
 
 Reluctantly we made our way to the hotel at the noon hour and 
 found luncheon ready, but our hunger was keener in the desire to 
 return and feast upon the scenes from whence we had come than 
 were our appetites for the more prosaic meal that stood before us. 
 
 We had an hour's rest at the hotel and during that brief period 
 quietude reigned round, and a spirit of tranquility and serenity 
 spread over us, and entwined the realm of space about us. There 
 
Courtesy Oregon Short Lint R. R. Photo, by F.Jay Haynet 
 
 GREAT FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE-YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
A MERRY ORUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 109 
 
 was a something that seemed to implore, that plead, that urged, and 
 whispered in our ears "You have not seen it all." Nature, like a 
 child, was calling us to hasten and see more of its playthings, and 
 childlike we hastened thither. 
 
 We drove along the rim of the canyon to "Grand View," the 
 "Brink" and other lofty view points, and it was here that we learned 
 just what the canyon was we were in a manner stunned and unable 
 to comprehend the vastness of the scene. It was not until we had 
 arrived at the edge of "Grand View" and peered over the edge of 
 the cliffs that the scene dawned upon us in its full might, majesty 
 and glory. 
 
 We could hear the roar and see the rushing waters in their fall, 
 then passing through the canyon far below the winding stream made 
 its way. The Crystal Falls formed a perfect grotto in the side of the 
 canyon. Deep down in the canyon sides is the brilliant lining 
 of many-hued sands the white, the orange, the red, the gray, the 
 purple in fact all colors and shades known to man, blended together 
 under the piercing rays of the sun into a light yellow, from whence 
 the river achieves its name. 
 
 The river dashes to the brink of the Lower Falls through a 
 pass not 100 feet wide and rushing over the cataract, plunges down 
 300 feet amid a spray that showers its pearly drops about in mad 
 confusion. As the restless current madly seeks an outlet, its water 
 turns in hue from green to blue in variating shades. 
 
 It was an extraordinary panorama that greeted our eyes as we 
 gazed from "Grand View" and the "Brink." The colors of the canyon 
 were so transcendent, so tender, so transparent, so harmonious. 
 We shut our eyes momentarily and still the vision remained. We 
 still could see the amber sands; the pink and pearly walls; the cat- 
 aract rocks, chocolate-brown, black, purple and polished; the lofty 
 alpines that clustered here and there, bespattered and flecked with the 
 yeasty foam over all the blue and burning sky, permeated with 
 light that palpitated everything with its sunshine. 
 
 As we look back upon that scene the inadequacy of words be- 
 comes apparent and all efforts to describe the indescribable be- 
 come mere presumptions. Words are useful instruments, but like 
 the etching needle and the burin, they stop short at form. They 
 fail in their effort to translate color and striking beauty. 
 
 As we slowly ventured down the narrow path along the falls we 
 realized that we had never before even dreamt of anything as lovely 
 as the sight we beheld. 
 
 We stood in the glorious sunlight among pine trees, that, 
 while they towered high into the air, were but pigmies like our- 
 selves in the presence of even the lowest step in the falls, which 
 
110 A MERRY CRUSADE TQ THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 leaped and dashed from such a height that the current lost all sem- 
 blance of water. 
 
 Dashing down over the rocks, the waters formed a splendid 
 bouquet of glistening rockets, which, instead of rushing heavenward, 
 shot down as if from the blue canopy which seemed to touch the 
 brink far above us. 
 
 Like a spray of falling stars, which seemed to storm down upon 
 us in separate showers, until they blended together in bands of thou- 
 sands in a grand avalanche of frothy, fleecy foam, the falls raged 
 and thundered until they were lost in a seething whirlpool that found 
 shelter in the boulders below. 
 
 The most exquisite moment arrived when we reached some 
 spot where the sun's rays streamed past and transformed the light 
 vapor into irridescent rainbow-prisms which girdled the waters in 
 their mystic circle. As the pyrotechnic waters shot through these 
 belts of radiance, they seemed to carry the colors of the dancing sun- 
 beam with them and made the vivid rainbow elastic. 
 
 When we again attained the summit of the canyon we bade adieu 
 to the exquisite scene. The pathway was steep, necessitating fre- 
 quent rests under the overshadowing pines whose feathery branches 
 fringed the steep cliffs and served as weathervanes to show the 
 trend of the breezes. 
 
 It was a silent party that made its way back to the hotel, for 
 all remained in deep thought, reviewing the wonders of the canyon 
 in the mind. Upon our arrival at the hostelry we regaled ourselves 
 with a satisfying dinner. 
 
 Following dinner, members of our party and several from 
 Mary Commandery, who had again caught up with us, offered a 
 vocal, instrumental and elocutionary entertainment, which found 
 its conclusion in an instructive lecture on the Yellowstone National 
 Park by an old inhabitant. 
 
 The old gentleman related some interesting anecdotes during 
 the course of his address. One bore on the democracy of Pres- 
 ident Roosevelt, whom he guided through the park. The President 
 had been given special permission to shoot in the park but refused 
 to accept any special privileges. The lecturer also told several in- 
 teresting stories of his experience with buffalo, deer and other an- 
 imals in the park. Reverting to a discussion of the park itself, the 
 speaker said in part: 
 
 "Yellowstone National Park, which covers an area of 5,500 
 square miles within the Rocky Mountains, was set aside by Con- 
 gress as a public reservation and pleasure-ground. It lies chiefly 
 in northwestern Wyoming but extends into Montana to the north 
 and into Idaho to the west. Its store of natural curiosities is 
 
Courtesy O. S. L. R. R. and N. P. R. R. 
 
 SCENES AT THE GRAND CANYON-YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 111 
 
 greater than that of any other area of equal size in the world and 
 within it are the sources of some of America's greatest rivers. The 
 Yellowstone, Gardiner and Madison Rivers, the headwaters of the 
 Missouri are born within the park, while the Snake River which is a 
 source of the Columbia of Oregon, and the Green River which feeds 
 the Colorado, find their source in this reservation. 
 
 "The center of the park is marked by a great, broad, volcanic 
 plateau which has an average height of 8,000 feet above sea-level. 
 It is fringed with mountains and peaks which attain an extreme al- 
 titude of 12,000 feet. 
 
 "The park contains the most elevated lake in the world Yellow- 
 stone Lake. The Yellowstone River flows into the lake, then out of it 
 to the northward, through a magnificent canyon. Tower Creek, which 
 flows through a gloomy pass known as Devil's Den and which at 
 one point has a fall of 156 feet, is the most remarkable tributary of 
 the Yellowstone. Owing to the peculiar existing atmospheric con- 
 ditions, there is frost in the park every month in the year. Geysers, 
 paint pots, craters, terrace formations, obsidian cliffs, petrified trees, 
 hot springs, sulphur deposits and similar formations, bespeak of re- 
 cent volcanic activity, while these geysers and springs are unequaled 
 in number and magnitude in any other section of the globe. 
 
 "There are in the neighborhood of 5,000 hot springs with their 
 deposits of lime and silica in the park, while over 100 geysers throw- 
 ing columns of water from 50 to 250 feet exist within its confines. 
 Gorgeous colors and elaborate ornamentations are created by the 
 deposits of the geysers and springs, and find their greatest glory in 
 the valleys of the Gardiner and Madison Rivers. 
 
 "Attempts have been made by the Government to establish a 
 huge game preserve within the park and large numbers of wild an- 
 imals abound, including deer, elk, bear, big-horn sheep and the last 
 herd of buffalo in the country. 
 
 "This region was first explored in 1807. A hunter named Coulter 
 visited it and upon his return to civilization, told such wonderful 
 stories of the hot springs and geysers that the unbelieving borderers, 
 in derision, called it "Coulter's Hell." Others visited it subse- 
 quently, but their remarkable tales were generally regarded as ro- 
 mances. The first thorough exploration was made by Prof. Hay- 
 den's scientific party for the Government in 1871, and his report led 
 Congress to reserve it as a public park." 
 
 The lecturer continued, giving a number of his experiences with 
 the wild animals in the park and furnished a fund of interesting data 
 and statistics as well as humorous incidents. 
 
 Sir Gilchrist became deeply interested as the lecturer told of the 
 springs and pools on the plateaus and table-lands, and asked if bil- 
 
112 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 liards as well as pool could be found on the table-land. The lec- 
 turer was in doubt for a moment and then declared that Sir Gil- 
 christ must have lost the cue. 
 
 Two pathetic incidents occurred later in the evening in which 
 two members of our party, Sirs Reel and Aeberli, played the star 
 roles. 
 
 About the midnight hour, when the happy party was slowly 
 thinning out, and one by one the pilgrims sought their couches for 
 the night, the startling discovery was made that Sir Aeberli was 
 missing. A commotion at once ensued. A diligent search of the 
 building failed to reveal the missing pilgrim. 
 
 Grave fears were expressed that he might be exploring the un- 
 known interior of a bear, for there was the customary delegation 
 in the rear of the hotel. Some thought he might have attempted 
 a Turkish bath within a geyser crater. Others believed that the 
 lecturer's reference to wild game had sent him seeking after "pino- 
 chle" or "sixty-six." 
 
 Almost to a man, every member of the party accustomed to late 
 hours heroically offered his services in forming a searching party, 
 and headed by a delegation of the employees of the hotel, who acted 
 as guides, we set out on our man-hunt. Never was the territory so 
 thoroughly gone over. Never were the stately pines so thoroughly 
 shaken in hopes of bringing a man out of a tree. The searching party 
 worked systematically, widening out into a circle from a given 
 point. 
 
 Suddenly there was a cry of joy from the searchers to the west. 
 Other members of the party hurried to the scene. There was Sir 
 Aeberli, seated on the bank of Alum Creek with his feet dangling in 
 its waters. He was serene and happy and seemed ruffled when his 
 bath was so rudely disturbed. 
 
 An explanation was at once demanded as to why he sought 
 such an hour to bask in the waters of Alum Creek. Finally, to con- 
 vince his rescuers that he was acting wisely and in a spirit of con- 
 fidence, he disclosed the fact that he had learned the waters of 
 Alum Creek bore mystic power at the midnight hour. He had been 
 informed that in years gone by a 70-year-old man, six feet tall and 
 weighing 200 pounds, had fallen into the pool at the stroke of 12 at 
 night, and after swimming about for a half hour was rescued and 
 found to have become regenerated. The old man was but 10 years of 
 age, only 5 feet tall and weighed but 100 pounds when dragged to the 
 shore, while future developments showed that he had only an elemen- 
 tary knowledge of arithmetic and had a keen desire to play marbles. 
 As Sir Aeberli did not have an opportunity to venture into the creek 
 bodily when rescued, the only evidence of the truth of the parable 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 113 
 
 which struck the rescuing party was the fact that the bather is now 
 wearing a No. 3 shoe. 
 
 When "Bill" arrived at the hotel he was going all to pieces with 
 laughter. His rescuers desired an explanation and he went on: "To 
 think of a torchlight procession coming way out there in the woods 
 at midnight and carrying me to the hotel on their shoulders in tri- 
 umph ! And yet I was once only a poor boy ! It shows what may 
 be accomplished by anyone if he will persevere and insist on living 
 a different life." 
 
 Another member of the party who, for a time, was strangely 
 missing, was Sir Reel. He was soon discovered seated on the edge 
 of the Canyon in deep study, determining how the varied colors of 
 the sands in the bottom of the ravine looked at night. Leaving Sir 
 Reel undisturbed and in deep thought, the rescuing party upon 
 reaching the hotel with the Alum Creek diver, hastened to the room 
 of Sir Reel and finding a new 12-inch lighted candle, mischieviously 
 sliced off an inch, and lighting it, left it swimming in the socket in 
 place of the long, fresh-lighted taper. 
 
 Shortly after, Sir Reel entered the hotel and the conspirators 
 laid low. Entering his room, he was startled to find that he had 
 remained out long enough to permit a 12-inch candle to consume 
 itself. Just as he was figuring how many hours he had remained 
 away, and why his watch was so woefully incorrect, one of the arch- 
 conspirators entered the room and asked if it was not too dark a 
 morning for an early breakfast. Sir Reel admitted in tones of em- 
 barrassment that he had just returned from an all-night vigil on the 
 Canyon brink and admitted that he was too tired for breakfast and 
 would take a little nap. After a "nap" it took considerable evidence 
 to convince Sir Reel just what portion of the day he was living in. 
 
 Meanwhile, as the strayed sheep were being gathered in, the 
 ladies of the party had retired, and the "boys," after an additional 
 hour or two of amusement, sought their beds. 
 
 The activities of the day brought us early sleep, but not a lasting 
 one. In less than two hours we awoke with throbbing temples. 
 We were dazed, confused, dreamy and unrefreshed. Soon we re- 
 alized the cause for it all. Most of the day we had heard the roar 
 of falling water. For hours we thought this poetic, but as we lay in 
 our beds, the distant roar, after singing us to sleep, continued in vol- 
 ume until it woke us with heads that felt sore. 
 
 The sensation is almost unaccountable. Almidst apparent pro- 
 found silence, we heard a sullen, distant, continued roar which one 
 hears when placing a sea shell to the ear. We became drowsy and 
 absent-minded; there was no tenacity of mind; we could not hold 
 
 (8) 
 
114 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 a thought and carry it to conclusion ; had we tried to sit up and write 
 our vocabulary would have been empty, our pens would have been 
 inactive. With heads tilted up, and eyes closed, we listened to the 
 painful muffled roar in our soundest sleep. We listened and 
 listened were compelled to listen and again awoke at last, irri- 
 table and harassed. 
 
 It was those raging waterfalls which we hid eagerly sought dur- 
 ing the day that had created the mischief. As we discovered the 
 identity of the sleep-wrecker, the sensation intensified in volume. 
 While the roar of the torrent was almost maddening, the physical pain 
 it inflicted was exquisite. We were compelled to rise and stand by 
 the open window and gaze out into the fascinating silence and soli- 
 tude, and ponder over it all. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 EDNESDAY morning, August 31, was one of calm beauty as 
 it unfolded itself o'er the Grand Canyon. The massive crags 
 around the valley lay "like sleeping kings" robed in purple 
 gloom, while the pale, yellow light crept behind them, and the 
 tall pines formed a belt of deeper hue around their. base. 
 
 After a hasty breakfast we departed on our day's drive, 
 resting and lunching at Norris Geyser Basin, passing the Virginia 
 Cascade en route. We drove silently along between green and fra- 
 grant banks, the surface of which had been cloaked by a mantle of 
 frost during the night; but swiftly and silently, as the glorious orb 
 which had opened and was ready to rule the day shot forth its 
 searching and penetrating rays, Nature changed her attire and trans- 
 formed the frost to dewdrops, with which to quench the thirst of its 
 beautiful emerald growth, for the day. The atmosphere became 
 more and more fragrant, with a sense of pleasure and contentment 
 that grew with the moments. 
 
 At times the roads and banks were overhung by branches that 
 hid the path from view; then we drove past noble hills clothed with 
 dense foliage to their tops, while on the other side were open levels, 
 upon which the sun blazed with all its power; again, we drove 
 through the shadow of the forest which contained at least a dozen 
 species of admirable timber that might have been turned to manifold 
 uses throughout the land ; in fact, there was a treasury of untold wealth 
 in timber throughout the park, but the Government strictly pro- 
 hibits any tree to be hewn, except where branches may interfere with 
 

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A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 115 
 
 travel along the roadways, and even then only such portions are 
 removed which are absolutely necessary. The trees as a rule grow 
 erect with branching columns of every size, crossclasped to each other 
 by transverse bars in the upper portions of the tree. 
 
 It was here that the drivers proudly pointed out the "Twin 
 Tree ;" two giants standing side by side, with no conceivable differ- 
 ence in size, shape, or circumference. Far up the trunk of one tree a 
 branch has extended and grown into the trunk of the other tree ; the 
 branch, drawing sustenance from both trees, has grown to a diameter 
 of probably eight inches. The phenomenon of the "Twin Tree" offered 
 possibilities in the minds of the agriculturists in our party, and while 
 offering them food for thought, also offered thought for food. In this 
 respect the "Twin Tree" led Sir Biddle to remark that by grafting a 
 pine tree to an apple tree in like manner, pineapples could be grown 
 in inexhaustible numbers, while Sir Kreps, who also had commercial 
 ambitions, hit upon the happy idea that by training a rubber tree to 
 grow into an oak tree in similar manner, that no difficulty would be 
 experienced in raising rubber-tired buggies. 
 
 During our travels through the park we had seen thousands of 
 acres of untouched land the unblemished face of virgin Nature. 
 Human foot ha3 never trod upon hundreds of acres that came into 
 our view from the coach seats. Hills and valleys were choked with 
 timber which had never known the woodman's ax. Thousands of 
 trees rent from their foundations by the fury of storms or tottering 
 from age and disability, lay matted together. Each remains to lay 
 where it falls, and branches and limbs, even trunks, seek the earth 
 from whence they sprang and bury themselves into the ground. 
 Moss and grass form the floral tributes which Nature pays to these 
 dead, till at last, crumbling into dust as does the human form, there 
 remains little but an outline upon the underbrush of what was once 
 a monarch of the forest. We had seen scores of impressions where 
 trees had fallen and decayed, and returned to earth with nothing but 
 a mere outline of dust to be carried away by the winds. 
 
 Onward we sped in our course through the household of nature. 
 Here and there deer would venture from out of the woods and taking 
 a position near the roadway, fearlessly and saucily gaze upon the 
 approaching coaches with apparent indignation, as if sneering at the 
 advance of uninvited guests. 
 
 Eventually we spied Norris Geyser Basin through the trees. It 
 appeared like an immense caldron of incessant activity as the steam 
 jets arose, the geysers plunged and roared, and blasts rang through 
 the air from the basin which covers an area of 150 acres. 
 
 The basin is properly named, in that it rests in a depression be- 
 low the general level. The complete area appears to have been de- 
 
116 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 vastated by some recent furious volcanic deluge, while the dazzling 
 white geyser formations and deposits which cover the ground, and 
 the hissing steam, the bubbling pools, and spraying mud geysers, 
 give evidence of another storm of brimstone and fire in course of 
 preparation. 
 
 The surface is strewn with a composition of lime, silica, sulphur 
 and sand, baked together by the torrid heat and cracked into fissures. 
 As one treads upon the surface the ground has a hollow ring, indi- 
 cating deep subterranean recesses, while streams of boiling waters 
 can be heard rumbling underneath. Here and there these under- 
 ground waters find release among the pine trees and streaming into 
 cataracts, spray upon the many-colored and hard-crusted deposits. 
 
 Like a community of an hundred exhaust pipes, an equal number 
 of saucy geysers of all sizes boil and rage everywhere. The "Steam- 
 boat" geyser lives up to its name by maintaining a continuous loud 
 roar; the "Black Growler" growls in basso tones while pools, paint 
 pots, hot springs and other fearsome creatures join in a violent, dis- 
 cording chorus. The air is impregnated with powerful, nauseating 
 odors, not unlike that of stale eggs. The white-crusted ground 
 crumbles under foot, and as the sun glares down upon the snowy field 
 the reflection is blinding. 
 
 The "Emerald Pool" which finds place in the basin, is a wide 
 crater of a former geyser, filled with boiling water of beautiful emer- 
 ald color which is ever active. The "Minute Man" is a popular gey- 
 ser, spouting at intervals of one minute and continuing 10 or 12 
 seconds. Its spray rises 30 feet. The "Vixen" is delightfully un- 
 reliable, throwing forth its spray at the most unlocked for times. 
 The "Monarch" holds sway on a hillside, a portion of which it has 
 blown away. It spouts once a day and its waters rise to a height of 
 100 feet, continuing about 30 minutes. Its column comes from two 
 huge orifices, the surplus water running down like a large brook. 
 When inactive this geyser industriously boils like a big tea-kettle. 
 Close by is the huge black "Ink Bottle," which resembles a pool of 
 writing fluid, its rims blackened like charcoal. Nearby were plenty 
 of "paint pots" and sulphur springs. 
 
 Finishing our stroll through the geyser basin, we wended our 
 way to the hotel at Norris, and entering the dining-room, we busied 
 ourselves with the lingering routine of the table d' hote with patience 
 and satisfaction. We took soup ; then waited a few moments for the 
 fish; a few moments longer and the plates were changed and roast 
 beef was brought on ; another change and we took peas and patties ; 
 these were followed by roast chicken and salad; then pie, ice cream, 
 oranges, almonds, green onions (as large as door-knobs), coffee and 
 finally ice water, (uncongealed ice dipped from the geysers,) with 
 
MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS AND NORRIS GEYSER BASIN-YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 117 
 
 every course, of course, anything but coarse. With such a cargo on 
 board, digestion would be a slow process, but the 30 mile drive ahead 
 gave assurance of considerable aid. 
 
 It was at Norris that we met our Praters and friends of Mary 
 Commandery for the last time in the park. As we parted (for we 
 left the park by different directions) we sang a farewell and they 
 reciprocated by singing a farewell to us. While from a critical mu- 
 ical standpoint the singing may not have been technically correct, 
 there was a sentiment in it which to us was beyond criticism. 
 
 In a northerly direction from Norris are located the famous 
 Mammoth Hot Springs and still further along the same route is the 
 "Gardiner Entrance," or "Northern Gate," best reached by the North- 
 ern Pacific railroad. It was by this entrance that Tancred and Mary 
 parties had entered and through which they left the park. As the 
 drive to the Mammoth Springs requires a half day each way, and as 
 we were anxious to complete our travels on original schedule, we 
 decided to forego the privilege of viewing the springs and continue 
 on to Monida. 
 
 The Mammoth Springs include wonderfully constructed terraces 
 formed from calcareous deposits that cover an area of several square 
 miles. Some 70 flowing springs are in operation, whose waters rise 
 to 165 degrees. The terraces are of many delicate hues and are in- 
 dented with picturesque caves, while cones of extinct geysers rise up 
 in bold contrast. 
 
 Entering the coaches after our substantial luncheon, we drove 
 around a winding road and entered into a woodland of spruce and 
 passed between the trees in a serpentine course. The wheels ran 
 silently over the bark-strewn mounds. Eventually we were carried 
 through the long, deep canyon of the Gibbon River and up a mount- 
 ain side, offering a distant view of Gibbon Falls, a cataract of 80 
 feet, located down in the valley. 
 
 All about us were great depths of boundless forest that have a 
 beguiling and impressive charm. In childhood we had read of 
 regions such as these being peopled with gnomes, dwarfs, fairies, 
 giants and all sorts of mysterious creatures. As we passed through 
 the dense forests these memories returned and we almost believed 
 in the gnomes and fairies as realities. 
 
 Presently one falls into a dreamy thought of enchanted folk and 
 animals and the rest of the pleasing legendary fables; and so, by 
 encouraging one's fanciful imagination, one interprets the shadows 
 that play between the forest aisles as being the reflections from 
 mysterious denizens of the woods. The region was peculiarly meet 
 for such thoughts. The woodland was so thick and dense that the 
 horses' hoofs made no more sound on the soft road than if they were 
 
118 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 treading on wool ; the only sound was the cracking of the drivers' 
 whips, which echoed loud and long. The tree trunks were as round 
 and straight and smooth as pillars, and stood close together; they 
 were bare of branches to a point about 25 feet above ground, and 
 from thence upwards were so thick with boughs that not a ray of 
 sunlight could penetrate them. Outside the world was bright, but a 
 deep and mellow twilight reigned within, while a silence prevailed so 
 profound that we seemed to hear our own breathing. 
 
 Turning our eyes up and down, right and left, we seemed to see 
 the same scenes, though they were not the same. New forms and 
 combinations seemed to mass before us in a manner incomprehensi- 
 ble to human intellect. The eye does not fill with seeing, nor the ear 
 with hearing, were one to spend a lifetime in these forests. One 
 might spend centuries studying the species of trees ; their action and 
 reaction upon one another; their virtues, properties and uses, and 
 how they exist and grow. One might ever ask by what miracle they 
 are compacted out of light, air and water, each after its kind ; whether 
 they are stable or variable ; whether the great God may not be creat- 
 ing new forms and new wonders day by day. Were you to spend cen- 
 turies in these forests determining these questions, could you still 
 answer the one question whether these wonders really exist or simply 
 appear? It is a secret that may be hidden from the philosopher and 
 yet be clear to the infant. 
 
 So it seemed to us as we entered the park on the first day, and 
 so it seemed to us on the last day as we were leaving, even more im- 
 pressed and awe-struck than upon the first day. Gradually, as the 
 sun began to sink, there was a taste of frost about and we drove 
 swiftly out of the forest and into the open along the Gibbon River to 
 a branch of the Madison. 
 
 It was here that the drivers informed us that we were within a 
 few miles of the Inn, on the border of the park. "The stone bruise 
 to our memory." Painful memories of the past were instantly re- 
 called. Immediately all guns were loaded and teeth were set to meet 
 the enemy and face the pirate who held sway over the mud hovel 
 settlement. Recalling the manner in which we were served on our 
 first visit and realizing the painful necessity of patronizing the inn 
 dining-room, Sir Kunberger shed tears of sorrow over the fact that we 
 had overlooked taking box lunches from Norris. Sir Shook an- 
 nounced that unless the animals objected, he would sleep with the 
 mustangs rather than experience another night in the inn hayloft. 
 
 Soon we arrived at the log and mud shanties with a fixed deter- 
 mination to suffer no abuse. And how bold the ladies were as we 
 took the fort! And how well they played their parts as fearless 
 soldiers with military bearing and daring, ready and eager to face 
 the enemy. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 119 
 
 We had no fear upon arriving. Experience gave us courage and 
 we knew what to expect. The same old pirate was on hand to issue 
 his orders and bully the guests had he dared. If there was one thing 
 the inn really offered, it was the marked contrast to other conditions 
 in and about Yellowstone Park and served to bring out with stronger 
 appreciation the pleasures we had found on our inland trip. At this 
 inn we found all the solitude necessary to make us dreary. If the 
 place and the pirate were not food for "Rock-me-to-sleep, mother," 
 then none ever existed. The scene was one of desolation, misery and 
 poverty, and there was little wonder that even the bears refused to 
 eat regularly at the place. 
 
 There was the customary line-up in the "alley" previous to din- 
 ner. A certain number were permitted to canter into the banquet 
 hall ( ?) arid when they had gone through the motions of eating what 
 was served them they were released by another door and a second 
 detachment entered. 
 
 The meal itself was beyond description and once eaten is never 
 to be forgotten, for the stomach will give a lasting reminder. We 
 were given something that looked like meat, but like the trees in 
 Yellowstone Park, was destined never to be hewn. We would have 
 considered it a treat had we been served with a lump of coal, a horse- 
 blanket, a slab of marble or a keg of nails, instead of the misrepresen- 
 tations that were brought to us, which only served to encourage our 
 appetites but discourage them immediately thereafter. Drippings 
 from the "paint pots" would have made admirable dessert instead of 
 the mysterious petrification that was dished out. Sir Benkart, who 
 has talent as a sculptor, managed by supreme effort to carve his 
 name in the butter as a lasting monument to other wayfarers who 
 might be destined to be caught in the web and meshes of the hostelry. 
 
 After all the members of our party had visited the dining-room 
 the Sir Knights serenaded the ladies in delightful fashion, and for a 
 time we forgot the miseries that surrounded us. We rehearsed the 
 same old songs which we all knew so well and sang so badly, but 
 nevertheless it was music to our ears to listen to our own voices. 
 After the serenade the Sir Knights drilled in front of the log huts. 
 It was our first drill since leaving home and considering lack of prac- 
 tice was very commendable thanks to Sir Shook. 
 
 Following the drill, we strolled into the neighboring woods and 
 were agreeably surprised to find a party of campers. They appeared 
 to be gypsies or foreigners, but nevertheless showed a high degree of 
 intelligence by casting their lot in the open rather than patronizing 
 the Inn. Encouraged by our success in singing for our ladies, we 
 serenaded the campers and captured the camp. The strangers ap- 
 plauded in apparent keen delight and after a pleasant hour or more we 
 
120 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 reluctantly left them to go to rest upon the ground, which we knew 
 would have been exquisite comfort in comparison to what we were 
 destined to endure. 
 
 Upon our return to the hotel ( ?) the first mutiny broke out. The 
 piratical manager ordered us to bed and immediately there was a 
 rebellion. It was the first test of strength, and we displayed our 
 courage by announcing that we would retire when we were ready. It 
 was an easy victory and the pirate retired in disorder. Evidently his 
 defeat unnerved him, for he became involved in all sorts of "mix-ups" 
 in everything he attempted to do during the evening. 
 
 As night came on we gathered together in the saddest, most con- 
 strained and dismal of all places we had ever seen the offices of the 
 two log shanties. Here we were grouped about in couples, threes 
 and fours, and mumbled in abated voices and looked timid, homeless 
 and forlorn in the gloom that prevailed. The vision of the bright, 
 cheerful and inviting "Allegheny Special" which faithfully awaited us 
 70 miles ahead, came before us, and in hopeless discouragement we 
 slowly retired to the hayloft. 
 
 In assigning the partitions that served as rooms, the pirate had 
 become badly confused. Sir Tannehill was ushered to one compart- 
 ment and had hardly become reconciled to his horrible surroundings 
 when another party demanded entrance, having been directed to the 
 same apartment. Sir Tannehill, rather than have fellow-beings suffer 
 the anxiety of sleeping out in the open with the bears, charitably 
 called over the partition that he would allow the advancing parties 
 to sleep under his bed. However, the pirate was prevailed upon to 
 provide another room. 
 
 The canvas partitions which separated the rooms reminded us of 
 being behind the scenes in a ten cent side show, while the doors, 
 which were without locks, had to be held shut by moving beds up 
 against them. Even the hay and sawdust which served as carpet 
 gave no sign of having been changed since our first arrival. 
 
 Two, three and as many as four were assigned to one room. Sirs 
 David B. Watson and William S. Watson had been assigned to the 
 same room and immediately retired in hopes of forgetting their sur- 
 roundings. Sir David B. became restless, but Sir William S. was 
 fortunate enough to pass into sleep at once. "Davie" did not like the 
 idea of his bedfellow gaining sleep so soon. There was something 
 about it which did not appeal to his sense of what was just and fair. 
 He could not understand how his brother could so quickly and easily 
 enter the enjoyment of "Nature's sweet restorer" while he was compel- 
 led to lie awake in lonesome misery. "Davie" lay fretting over his in- 
 jury and making brave efforts to sleep, but the harder he tried the 
 wider awake he grew. He began feeling very lonely in the dark with 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 121 
 
 no company but an undigested dinner. Finally his mind became 
 sharpened and he began thinking of any and every subject, but his 
 thinking never carried him beyond the beginning. It was touch and 
 go; his mind turned from one topic to another with frantic speed 
 until finally his head was in a whirl and he was fagged out. 
 
 The fatigue became so great that it presently began to make 
 some impression against his nervous excitement. While imagining 
 himself wide awake, he would really doze momentarily and suddenly 
 awaken with a physical jerk which nearly wrenched his joints apart, 
 the delusion of the moment being that he was tumbling over a preci- 
 pice. The truth of the matter was that the bed had only two casters, 
 one on each side, diagonally, and as he tossed from side to side the 
 bed thumped upon the floor and he felt himself upon the high seas. 
 
 After he had fallen over six or seven precipices and thus found 
 out that one-half of his brain had been asleep as many times without 
 the wide-awake, 'hard- working other half even suspecting it, the peri- 
 odical unconsciousness began to extend over more of his brain terri- 
 tory, until at last he sank into a doze, which grew deeper and deeper 
 and was about to become a solid, peaceful, dreamless stupor when 
 what was that ? 
 
 "Davie's" dulled faculties dragged themselves partly back to life 
 and took a receptive attitude. Out of an immense, limitless distance, 
 there came something which grew and grew as it approached and 
 presently was recognizable as a sound, it had rather seemed to be a 
 feeling, at first. The sound was near by perhaps it was the grum- 
 bling of a bear and now it was nearer and came still nearer until at 
 last it was right in the room. 
 
 "Davie" awoke to his fullest, and before him, upon the foot of 
 the bed, sat a large gray owl. Not a night owl, as in the generally 
 accepted sense, but one of the feathered flock. At first "Davie" was 
 mentally offering a reward of five, seven, eight, ten dollars, for that 
 owl ; but eventually he was offering rewards entirely beyond the 
 means of even a Rockefeller. Finally he did what everyone else has 
 done under similar circumstances since the days of Noah resolved 
 to throw something. He reached down and brought up a shoe, then 
 sat and listened. Taking deliberate aim, he fired with vigor. The 
 shoe, taking a graceful out-curve, dodged the owl and crashing 
 through the canvas partition, broke a mirror in the adjoining room ! 
 
 Immediately there was a cry from the neighboring sleepers who 
 were rudely aroused by breaking glass. They did not cry out in fear, 
 but in delight, for they imagined, while yet asleep, that the breaking 
 of the glass was the welcoming ring of some dinner bell in a real 
 hotel. Explanations and apologies were soon made to the satisfaction 
 of all, but the owl had silently passed out into the otherwise stilly 
 night. 
 
122 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 HE air was made musical by good cheer after we had risen on 
 the morning of Thursday, September 1st. We were bound for 
 Monida, with a 70-mile drive ahead and anticipated reaching 
 our own dear "Allegheny Special" by sunset. The pleasure that one 
 experiences on a home-going voyage pervaded every member of the 
 party. Yellowstone Park had been a revelation and marvel to us and 
 new interest could be found every day for years. Perhaps it was the 
 inn that made the leave-taking so easy. If it was, it is the only re- 
 deeming feature the establishment had. 
 
 Entering the coaches we started on our long ride. The scenes 
 were familiar to us, having gone over the same road en route to the 
 park, but nevertheless the beauties of nature had almost as great an 
 interest to the pilgrims as upon first sight. Far in the distance we 
 saw a wall of dreary mountains; some shorn of vegetation, glaring 
 fiercely under the sun. They fenced in great stretches of level prairie 
 land and were threaded with fine lines which we knew to be roads. 
 Then there were mountains whose ribbed and chasmed fronts were 
 clad with stately pines that seemed to grow smaller and smaller as 
 they climbed, till one might fancy them reduced to weeds and shrub- 
 bery near the summit. 
 
 We verily believed that some of us would be shot before the 
 drive of the day was finished. After leaving the inn we were no more 
 within the park limits, and there was no restriction in hunting game 
 or shooting. With this in mind, Sirs Reel, Beckert, Jack and Mr. Null 
 kept their hands on their revolvers almost continuously and when 
 least expected would take a shot at some object often not visible to 
 any other member of the party. Each of these gentlemen were "fancy 
 shots." They could shoot "out" curves and "in" curves and "drops" 
 that would dodge any given target with an ease and grace that was 
 truly remarkable. 
 
 All were in deadly fear that murder would be committed ere the 
 drive was over, and in order to save the state from the expense of 
 an execution we implored the marksmen to aim at us. We felt that if 
 we could only induce them to do this, our lives would be perfectly 
 safe and free from any danger. However, the quartet refused to aim 
 at us fearing that their arms might suddenly swerve and that they 
 might, by accident, actually hit what they aimed at. As it was, we 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 123 
 
 were kept in almost continuous motion dodging bullets that were 
 fired in opposite directions. 
 
 Eventually peace was declared and the warriors laid aside their 
 arms for a time. We jogged along stupidly in the sun, thinking 
 about things ever so far away and with the distant look in our eyes 
 such as only a bank cashier can affect. Dashing up a hill at a stormy 
 gallop and down an embankment, we were once more on the bank 
 of that self-same Snake River through which our horses had waded 
 on the incoming trip and the performance was repeated. It was here 
 that we were compelled to blush with shame as laurels in marksman- 
 ship were rudely swept away. 
 
 Upon leaving the inn, one of the drivers went out on a strike be- 
 cause his horses had not been properly fed. We could have struck 
 for the same reason, but deemed it inadvisable to remain in that ter- 
 ritory any longer and slowly starve. But the coachman was obsti- 
 nate, and in arranging for transportation for those who were to ride 
 on the coach that was left behind, Leininger secured a seat among 
 strangers in a coach that immediately followed our coaches. Lein- 
 inger informed his new acquaintances that the pilgrims were as exem- 
 plary a party as had ever visited the region, and further announced 
 that there were sportsmen among the party from whose guns every 
 living thing flees in terror. The listeners were so visibly impressed 
 that when their coach caught up with ours on the bank of the Snake 
 River, every one of the strangers hid their revolvers from view in 
 order not to compete with our quartet in marksmanship. 
 
 The river was literally covered with wild duck. Leininger arose 
 in his seat and commanded that the strangers watch the frightful 
 slaughter, which he predicted would exterminate the whole duck 
 tribe. Then with great care Reel, Beckert, Jack and Null pulled out 
 a copy of Smith & Wesson's great book on "How to Ventilate." They 
 opened the volume at the first chapter and addressed several 38-cali- 
 bre remarks in the direction. Immediately the air rang with a bang! 
 de bang-bang ! bang ! de bang-bang-bang ! 
 
 "No chance for the poor, poor ducks," sobbed Leininger, while 
 the strangers wept, and the quartet kept up the bombardment until 
 their revolvers were empty. 
 
 "We'll never be able to count the dead," remarked Leininger as 
 the smoke was clearing away, and he, together with the marksmen, 
 were whetting their appetites for a wild duck dinner. 
 
 As Sir Reel's voice broke the silence with the singing of "Where 
 Is My Wandering Boy Tonight?" the coaches drew nearer and Lein- 
 inger felt that the slaughter had been complete. 
 
 "How many?" asked Leininger, when to his great horror Reel 
 answered in tones of disgust: "We fired nearly 100 shots and the 
 
124 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 nearest duck never raised a wing or turned a feather." It is needless 
 to add that Leininger was deaf and dumb to the strangers during the 
 remainder of the drive. 
 
 Gaining the opposite side of the river, we continued our drive 
 over hill and vale until the "hoodoo" caught up with us for a moment. 
 It was the 13th day we had been out from Allegheny and one of the 
 coaches carried 13 passengers. This particular coach broke down and 
 after being left in the rear for some time managed to make temporary 
 repairs and continued in our wake. 
 
 After a time riding became tiresome and as we reached a series 
 of hills we offered rest to ourselves and the horses by walking up the 
 hills in front of the coaches, gathering wild-flowers from the road 
 banks and between the coach tracks. 
 
 Arriving in a deep valley we viewed extensive plains stretched 
 out before us and caught a glimpse of Lakeview, although we were 
 not destined to reach that point for two hours. Every now and again 
 we caught a fleeting glimpse of the hostelry at that place, but before 
 we could take a prolonged look, another hill would loom up and hide 
 it from view. 
 
 Arriving at Lakeview everyone took a vigorous wash in a water- 
 trough. The writer uses the word "everyone" advisedly, as several 
 members of the party insisted that the public be fully informed on 
 this point and asked that the fact be given special prominence. 
 
 Entering the dining-room we at once became conscious of the 
 fact that a conclave of flies from every section in the United States, 
 Dominion of Canada and foreign points was in session. The muslin- 
 covered walls and ceiling of the rooms were covered, while flying 
 squadrons sailed about by the hundred. 
 
 It was amusing to an onlooker to see the gymnastics of the diners 
 at the table, although the participants could not appreciate the joke. 
 One hand only was used in eating while the other was continuously 
 engaged in a smacking and cracking that sounded like a military 
 engagement, for there were nearly a hundred seated at the tables. 
 Even the flies seemed to enjoy it, for none were injured, while bald 
 heads reddened under the blows until they shone like the sun. With 
 arms ever in motion in similar directions, the guests looked like a well- 
 drilled class going through an exercise in calisthenics, and enough 
 exercise was provided to digest the meal before leaving the table. 
 
 After a short rest we started on the last relay to Monida and our 
 "Allegheny Special." In making up our train of coaches we included 
 an elderly lady and gentleman. We nicknamed the couple Mr. and 
 Mrs. Santa Claus, and they occupied the last seat on the last coach. 
 Racing between the drivers was carried on with a fury in the run to 
 Monida, but Mr. and Mrs. Santa Claus dozed peacefully and their 
 
coach soon became known as the "bum coach" because of its antiquity 
 and weakness for breaking down and resting at frequent intervals. 
 
 Shortly after leaving Lakeview, one of the coaches containing 
 ten gentlemen and one lady, began creaking badly and the driver 
 stopping and making an examination, discovered that one of the 
 boxes had become quite hot. No water could be found for miles 
 about and a consultation was held. Meanwhile coach after coach 
 passed until one came along that contained a Sir Knight whose busi- 
 ness is coach and wagon building. He gave his seat to the lady of the 
 stranded party and offered some professional advice that soon over- 
 came the trouble, and after greasing the axle and replacing the wheel, 
 the wild ride to Monida began. 
 
 The coach ran smoothly and to insure against further delay some 
 "oil" was applied to the driver. Coach after coach was passed! 
 More "oil" to the driver and only one coach remained ahead ! More 
 "oil" and happy thought one of the passengers wagered with the 
 driver that he could not pass the single coach ahead. A bottle of 
 "oil" was passed up to the reinsman and the wild ride that followed 
 will ever linger in the memories of those who survived it. Suffice to 
 say the driver won the wager and reached Monida in the van of the 
 party. 
 
 Another exciting race on this relay was between the "Him" coach 
 and the "Her" coach these names having been designated because 
 of the sex of the passengers. At one point when the "Her" coach 
 was two miles in the lead, a passenger on the "Him" coach made the 
 usual $1 wager with the driver. The race for $1 or death was begun 
 in earnest. On the left was a ravine of great depth with many turns 
 in the road. While making one of the curves the driver, in his frantic 
 cries and whip-lashings, dropped his lines. With a marvelous leap he 
 succeeded in regaining them to the very good fortune of the pas- 
 sengers as well as himself. On he kept without abatement of pace 
 and shortly after, in the valley below, earned his wager of $1 by suc- 
 cessfully passing the "Her" coach and holding the advantage. The 
 yelling and shouting and whipping and galloping by all interested 
 made the race exciting and exhilarating and particularly boisterous. 
 
 "Three-Fingered Mike," one of the drivers who bore that prosaic 
 title because he had lost two fingers of one hand in some wild es- 
 capade, was notorious for his fast and daring and yet skilful driving. 
 As he brought his coach to a sudden stop in front of the hotel at 
 Monida, one of the horses fell helpless to the ground. 
 
 "What a pity is he dead?" was asked by Sir Schwerd, while 
 others gathered about and offered words of sympathy for the animal. 
 
 "Naw," answered "Mike," "he ain't dead only tired. That there 
 
126 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 hoss started to lay down at the top of the hill nine miles back, but I 
 wa'n't goin' to let him down till I got to the reg'lar stoppin' place." 
 
 "Home" again! for the first time in a week! Cheers and smiles 
 bespoke the sentiments of every pilgrim in the party. The conductor 
 "Woodzie," porters and "Faithful" Johnstone of the commissary 
 were loud in their welcome. Once more there was a full audience 
 aboard to hear the singing of the chorus and listen to the many 
 stories and incidents that were to be told. With a parting salute, 
 and waving a last adieu, we left Monida to speed onward to Ogden, 
 Utah. 
 
 The seats were once more filled and the good, old commissary 
 car was again pressed into service. It was a night typical of old 
 times old times that were but a week old, but that week had been 
 so crowded with incidents, adventure and excitement that it seemed 
 like months. 
 
 Although we were fatigued from our long drive and exhausted 
 after facing the direct rays of the sun for so many hours, we found 
 comfort in the fact that the pleasant memories of our trip through 
 the Yellowstone National Park (with the exception of the inn on 
 the border) will grow with increasing interest as the years roll by, 
 memories which some day will become all the more beautiful when 
 the last annoyance that incumbers them shall have faded out of our 
 minds, never again to return. 
 
 Boyhood days are no happier than those of after life, but we look 
 back upon them regretfully because we forget our punishments ; such 
 as customarily follow a parent's knowledge of "hookey-playing." 
 How we grieved when our ball team lost, or our kites became de- 
 stroyed! Because we have forgotten all the sorrows and privations 
 of that epoch and remember only the orchard robberies, cellar side- 
 shows, wooden sword pageants and vacation time. 
 
 We were satisfied. We felt that our reward was yet to come. 
 To us Yellowstone Park and the experiences within it were destined 
 to have an enchanted memory a year hence a memory that was 
 sure to grow with time, and which to us would be priceless. 
 
 As our train glided silently along, the moon shed a silvery light 
 over the whole surrounding country; the steep mountain banks ap- 
 peared in most fantastical shapes, while the high oaks on either side 
 bowed their branches and cast deep shadows over the track as we 
 flew past. 
 
 Suddenly there was a violent sprinkling upon the window glass. 
 It sounded like the fury of a violent hail-storm. Investigation proved 
 that we were traveling through a sand desert and the velocity of the 
 train was sweeping the sand in clouds against the coaches. Though 
 the windows were kept tightly closed, the sand nevertheless pene- 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 127 
 
 trated the window sashes. The sensation of riding through a sand- 
 storm, even though you create it yourself, is a peculiar one, although 
 by no means alarming. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 N the light of the newborn day, in the rock-walled pocket of the 
 mountain, the ghost of the dead night found shelter yet. Afar, 
 upon the mountain-tops, across the valley, the radiant morn 
 stepped lightly. Moment by moment she drew nearer, scat- 
 tering jewels as she passed, until every distant peak gleamed in deli- 
 cate array. 
 
 Old-fashioned home-life aboard the train was re-established. The 
 cheering and oft-repeated greeting of "good morning" was expressed 
 and re-expressed in all fullness of heart. The same mass meeting 
 comprised of the same members, was re-assembled in the commissary 
 car and, as ever, was full of speech-makers who were invariably inter- 
 rupted. Motions were made that did not survive sufficient seconds 
 to be seconded. Amendments were offered that were "born to blush 
 unseen" and unheard. Resolutions were offered that died from 
 sheer exhaustion in their efforts to get "before the house." 
 
 Two mass meetings a day were arranged for, but the custom was 
 not to adjourn one until the other was full under way. New chair- 
 men were elected almost with the tick of the clock. "Boxmen" they 
 were, rather than chairmen, if the nature of the furniture was to be 
 considered. We were earnestly engrossed in these labors delightful 
 labors to us for the greater portion of the time; and yet, so often 
 fallaciously, that whenever, at long intervals, we safely delivered a 
 resolution, it was cause for public rejoicing. 
 
 One of the disturbing elements of these deliberating conferences 
 was the "I don't want to hear that" double-sextette. This degree 
 team was possessed with powerful voices, and whenever some ambi- 
 tious narrator found courage to spin a story, or some talented his- 
 torian arose to expound sterling thoughts on the natural beauties of 
 the country, he had no sooner opened a new can of preserved and 
 difficult words that would have been an ornament to any collection, 
 when the chorus would enthusiastically and unitedly set forth the 
 discordant roar "I don't want to hear that, 'Kunnie!' Dou you?" 
 "No, no ! We don't want to hear that !" thundered a chorus of voices. 
 
 Amidst these diversities, and others which took more serious 
 
128 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 form, in the coaches, we eventually found ourselves at Ogden, Utah, 
 shortly before 9 o'clock in the morning. 
 
 We were cordially and fraternally greeted at the station by a 
 delegation of local Sir Knights who had a car in waiting, that we 
 might inspect their city. We took advantage of their kind offer by 
 an hour's ride. Among those who greeted us at Ogden was Mr. C. A. 
 Henry, ticket agent at the Union depot, who showed our party special 
 attention and every courtesy. 
 
 We found Olgden to be a city of enterprise. It is located at the 
 base of the Wasatch Range on the Ogden River, midway between 
 the Missouri River and the Golden Gate, and 833 miles east of San 
 Francisco. It lies in a rich, fertile valley and shelters a population 
 of 17,000. The Mormon movement of 1848 under Brigham Young 
 included Ogden, while Corrinne, a short distance west, was at one time 
 the largest Gentile settlement in Utah. Irrigation has worked won- 
 derfully to develop Ogden into a rich grain and fruit growing region. 
 In importance as a commercial and railway center Ogden is second 
 only to Salt Lake City, in Utah. Its people are progressive and it is 
 assured of as prosperous a future as any city in the inter-mountain 
 region. 
 
 Returning to the station we were informed that the time standard 
 again changed, this time to Pacific standard. The latter is one hour 
 slower than mountain time or three hours slower than Pittsburgh 
 time. 
 
 Hanley complained that his watch could not become 
 acclimated to the many variations and had completely failed to "keep 
 the hang." It had grown discouraged and stopped. The owner con- 
 tended that if the standards kept going back much further we would 
 be living in the week before last by the time San Francisco was 
 reached. At any event, he found consolation in the fact that his 
 appetite contained a clock-work equal to any emergency and that he 
 could always feel assured that it was meal time when it struck, re- 
 gardless whether it struck 12 or not. 
 
 There was considerable delay in leaving Ogden station and we 
 were informed that preparations were being made to take our "Spe- 
 cial" over the new short line known as the "Ogden-Lucin Cut-off," 
 and that our "Special" was to be the second passenger train to cross 
 it. 
 
 The "cut-off" is on the Southern Pacific system, the admirable 
 "Sunset Route," and presently we were bound on our novel tour. The 
 "cut-off" is 102 miles long, 72 miles on land and 30 on water 
 over the great Salt Lake. It is a saving of 40 miles over the old route 
 which made a semi-circle over the northern shore of the lake. The 
 old route crossed two mountain ranges while the new road is almost 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 129 
 
 perfectly level. Reaching the lake proper, the train sped over a con- 
 tinuous single-track trestle that seemed to sway under its burden. 
 Gravel and sand from the newly constructed roadbed crumbled and 
 rolled into the lake while workmen, who were still employed at various 
 points, stood upon a narrow pathway on the outer edge of the trestle 
 and anxiously watched the passing of the train, eagerly noting its in- 
 fluence upon the "fill-ins" and roadbed. The "cut-off" is a triumph of 
 engineering skill and presented many intricate problems before its 
 construction was achieved. At one point, near Promontory Point, a 
 cut 3,000 feet long was made into the sand and rock of a barren bluff. 
 
 It was at Promontory station, on the old line, on May 10, 1869, 
 that the builders of the original transcontinental line, the Union 
 Pacific and Central Pacific joined their tracks. The last connecting 
 spike, which was of gold, was driven with a silver hammer amid im- 
 pressive exercises. Two locomotives, one coming from the east and 
 the other from the west, met here, welding the last link in the chain 
 of transcontinental travel. The Southern Pacific afterward absorbed 
 the old Central Pacific line. 
 
 We continued across the great lake at greatly reduced speed, 
 owing to the newness of the trestle and roadbed. Where the waters 
 of the lake were especially shallow, or where the water had departed 
 entirely, the sight was a most interesting one, giving the appearance 
 of an immense desert of snow, due to the enormous deposits of crys- 
 talized salt. 
 
 In the early days Salt Lake was a much larger body of water 
 than it appears today, and undisputable evidence of the fact is shown 
 by the old shore lines which are indelibly traced high up on the 
 mountain sides. Researchers have mapped out these old water lines 
 and named the ancient lake "Lake Bonneville." 
 
 Shortly after passing Lucin, Utah, we observed a small granite 
 monument supported by a mass of rock. This marks the Nevada state 
 line and passing it, we entered upon the Great American Desert (also 
 known as the Humboldt Desert) and the expansive alkaline waste 
 loomed drearily before us. 
 
 Our next stop was Tecoma, Nevada, where the celebrated silver 
 and lead mines were discovered in 1874. On the left of the station 
 is a famous landmark, Pilot Peak, a lofty pile of rock towering into 
 the clouds 2,500 feet above the sands and sagebrush. This peak was 
 regarded with welcoming reverence by the emigrant and pioneer who 
 crossed the plains in the early days, for it pointed his course into 
 valleys and streams where water and food were procurable after days 
 of weary travel over the desert. 
 
 Several small stations were passed with scarcely a house in sight ; 
 absolutely nothing to relieve the eye over miles and miles of barren 
 
 (9) 
 
130 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 sandy plains, with here and there a cluster of sagebrush valiantly 
 fighting for life. The little frame buildings which serve as flag sta- 
 tions are probably the tribute to civilization of one of the mining 
 camps for which the state is noted, and occasionally a hopeful pros- 
 pector leaves the train at these points and wanders into the dismal 
 desert in hope of attaining wealth in the form of enchanting silver, 
 gold and lead. 
 
 Moor station, which at one time was a good-sized community of 
 frontiersmen and lumbermen (during the construction of the railroad) 
 is now a deserted village. At this point there is a down grade of 311 
 miles to the Nevada Desert. As we passed these numerous little 
 stations the monotony of the barren waste became stronger, while 
 the railroad tracks had a peculiar interest, in that we recognized in 
 them a connection with the world. 
 
 It was while passing these way-stations that an interesting mass 
 meeting was in session in the commissary car. Several had declared 
 their surprise at not having seen much of the wild game for which the 
 west is noted and which they had hoped to see upon their natural 
 playground. Following the expression of this sentiment Mr. Null 
 declared with pride that he had seen several "flocks" of coyotes and 
 urged his hearers to be upon the lookout, for his trained sportsman's 
 scent informed him that there were some in the neighborhood. With 
 eager eyes the "commissary delegation" scanned the country for 
 miles around from out the open door of the commissary car, as the 
 train sped its course. With drawn revolver (22 calibre, a bullet from 
 which wild game takes with pleasure, and begs for more) Null bravely 
 awaited the foe. Suddenly, with an exclamation of joy, he pointed 
 to a spot a short distance ahead, crying out: "There is a flock of 
 coyotes! See them!" Before answer could be made, we were upon 
 them, and with a bang! bang! bang! he had discharged his baritone 
 instrument upon upon a harmless community of prairie dogs. 
 
 It required a map and several allopathic doses of logic to con- 
 vince Null that coyotes and prairie dogs were "birds of a different 
 feather," and it was at his good-natured expense that much amuse- 
 ment was afforded in the commissary car, in a full and complete dis- 
 cussion of his "flock" of coyotes. 
 
 Gradually our eyes and minds reverted to the lonely and deserted 
 sands that ran out to meet the horizon on every side. Desolation was 
 complete and in its completeness drew an impressive picture that 
 led the onlooker into mysterious dreams. There were no ploughed 
 fields, very few settlements, no trees nor grass nor vegetation of any 
 kind save the few straggling patches of sagebrush. At times we rode 
 for scores of miles without even the sight of a hut or the faintest clue 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 131 
 
 of humanity, or even animal life. It was a complete blank an unin- 
 viting, smileless, appropriately named desert. 
 
 One becomes enwrapped in serious thought at first in glancing 
 o'er this hapless land an effect that many confound with weariness. 
 With a sky unchanged from horizon to horizon and a deadly silence 
 over all, one becomes lost in the solitude and the onlooker's very soul 
 seems to fade out into the nothingness that lies before him. Now 
 and again a sort of deserted village is swiftly passed ; then a little 
 verdure, sandy islets and lastly, a few reefs of whitish calcareous stone 
 on the outer edge of an ocean of sand. So much sameness ; so little 
 variety, with scarcely a motion but the slow steady passage of the 
 rising sun in the east to its setting beneath the sand limits in the west. 
 
 Scarcely a twilight smiles upon the scene of emptiness, though 
 occasionally there is a sudden expansion of light and warmth with 
 burning winds that momentarily give the landscape a melancholy 
 glare that causes grewsome sensations. Normally there prevails a 
 radiant immobility, a kind of impossibility that seemed to have fallen 
 from the sky upon lifeless things, and from them to reflect into human 
 faces. After a time the eye became accustomed to the endless ex- 
 panse as it glared under the flaring sun in the nakedness which was 
 relieved only by the sagebrush and the repulsive cactus, and if any 
 astonishment was experienced, it was over the still remaining sensi- 
 bility to such slightly changing effects and at being so deeply im- 
 pressed with that which was but so simple. 
 
 We rarely saw a moving creature on these pathless sands. But 
 for the telegraph poles stalking ghost-like across the desert, it would 
 seem as if we had passed the limits of civilization and were moving 
 o'er the threshold of a land unexplored. 
 
 Following dinner, the "warrior band" repaired to the commissary 
 car only to find it in semi-darkness owing to trouble with the Pintsch 
 lights. Johnstone was equal to the occasion, and at one of the little 
 stations where we stopped for a moment, he alighted and "borrowed" 
 a few lanterns. While there was a perceptible difference in the 
 lights, Sir Craig contended that the change was immaterial, and that 
 in place of Pintsch lights we had "pinched lights." 
 
 The customary entertainment was afforded in the commissary 
 car and among new diversities introduced was a "Con" clave. It 
 wasn't a triennial affair, but we were willing to try it on any and all. 
 
 As we reached Palisade we were somewhat startled to hear a 
 scramble of feet on the roof of the commissary car. Making an in- 
 vestigation, we discovered that two "knights of the road" were bask- 
 ing on the promenade deck. Realizing that the "professional travel- 
 ers" were compelled to take the first train in sight in a country where 
 two trains a day is the limit, we instructed Sir Harry W. Lowrie, 
 
132 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 chairman of our committee, to present our compliments to the gentle- 
 men upstairs. The suggestion was carried out but received no re- 
 sponse, possibly that the tramps on the roof thought we were "beneath 
 them." 
 
 Several towns of more or less interest were passed during the 
 evening and night. Leaving Palisade, and passing through a 12-mile 
 canyon, Cluro was reached. Beowawe, Shoshone and Battle Moun- 
 tain are stations in the Humboldt Valley, which serve as distributing 
 points for the mining camps both north and south of the railroad. 
 Passing through many ranches, we came to Stone House, a station 
 deriving its name from an old building that formerly served as an 
 eating house and stop-over in the days of the stage coach. Many 
 conflicts between the early settlers and Indians occurred at this point. 
 Passing Iron Point we came to Winnemucca, the county seat of 
 Humboldt county. It is a mining center of considerable importance 
 and is rife with traditions from the days of the emigrants. 
 
 It was considerably later than the midnight hour when we reach- 
 ed Humboldt, which is known as the oasis of the Great Desert. It 
 possesses a lake that has an altitude equal to that of the Great Salt 
 Lake in Utah. Almost in the midst of the desert, with barrenness and 
 desolation on every side, stands this oasis with its verdant green. 
 
 Most of the pilgrims had long since retired when Humboldt was 
 reached, although a few were still gathered in the commissary 
 car. "Bobbie" sang a few songs in "sugar-coated doses" which made 
 them easy to take. He was voted a nightingale ; for all were agreed 
 that he was at his best at night and in the gale. Just as he had com- 
 pleted his last song, we thought we heard a distant call coming from 
 over the desert. We listened and it was repeated. It was some 
 Indian warrior, responding to what he had mistaken in "Bobbie's" 
 song as the warcry of a rival tribe. 
 
 As we looked out into the stilly night with its deep shadows of 
 darkness stretched o'er the mighty expanse, our thoughts reverted to 
 the possible unwritten history of the years gone by, which the desert 
 could disclose if it would. 
 
 We thought of the present conditions and future possibilities as 
 compared with those in the same region in the days of our forefathers. 
 We sought into the "future with a hope to learn what coming enter- 
 prise could effect, in bringing water to relieve the thirst of this 
 parched waste and transform it into the flower garden of the middle 
 west. 
 
 We had often looked up into the midnight skies ; at the Southern 
 Cross in the Pacific; and the Milky Way in the Tropics; at Mars 
 and the so-called canals and at the Opal widths of the moon ; from the 
 snowy tops of mountains, and down into the bowels of the earth ; but 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 133 
 
 never, never had we studied the past, the present and the future 
 under such extraordinary circumstances, and with such peculiar and 
 enchanted environments, as on this night, crossing the Great Ameri- 
 can Desert. 
 
 Meditating in the stilly and solemn night, what does not enter 
 the mind? As our thoughts wandered aimlessly o'er the vast realm 
 of space, what did the power of thinking convey of that arid and re- 
 pulsive desert, which for years upon years served only as a barrier 
 against the advancement of civilization. 
 
 Nor had Nature always been in the same mood as she prevailed 
 through the many years over this wide stretch of discouragement 
 and nothingness. For in winter she clothed the countless acreage 
 with a deep cloak of snow, and for a summer garb, applied the burn- 
 ing, ceaseless rays of a penetrating sun to sprinkle them with a gray 
 mantle of saline alkali dust. Under either condition, this mighty ex- 
 panse preserved the common characteristics of barrenness, inhospi- 
 tality aiid misery, after which a Idnging for Home above. So, so many 
 prayers have been answered, for buried beneath the burning sands 
 lay untold secrets materialized by the dry and parched bones of men 
 who wandered a step too far in search of the mysteries that might lie 
 beyond, or the wealth that remained unrevealcd. 
 
 Not many years ago there were no inhabitants upon this land of 
 desolation. A band of Indians may have occasionally traversed it in 
 order to reach other hunting-grounds ; but the hardiest of the braves 
 were glad to lose sight of the awesome desolation and find themselves 
 once more upon the prairie. Occasionally the coyote would stalk 
 among the sage brush, and the buzzard sail slowly over the vast 
 expanse in search of a new victim, who was probably driven to the 
 dust by thirst; but aside from these and a few carnivorous animals, 
 no living thing would linger upon the treacherous sands. 
 
 This waveless sea, within sight of human eye, was dusted with 
 alkali, intersected only by sparse clumps of dwarfish chapparel bushes. 
 The deep silence of overhanging death was ever present. Rarely did 
 bird ruffle the air, nor was there a move upon the dull, gray earth 
 above all, there prevailed absolute and uninterrupted silence. There 
 was no semblance of sound in all the mighty wilderness of nothing- 
 ness ; nothing but silence complete, heart-subduing silence. 
 
 Desolation was occasionally relieved by a pathway trending its 
 way across the desert and winding itself, further and further out, 
 only to become lost in nothingness in the extreme distance. Rutted 
 with wheel-marks and trodden down by the feet of adventurers and 
 prospectors, they tell the tale of daring ambition intertwined with 
 pathos. For here and there lay scattered white objects which glis- 
 tened and shone under the sun, and stood out in bold relief against 
 
134 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 their alkali bases. What were they? Bones! Some large and coarse 
 others small and delicate. The former told of the perishing of cattle 
 and beasts the others lay as pathetic monuments to the memory of 
 men, some who had been counted among the living by hopeful rela- 
 tives and friends, long after they fell to rise no more from the yearning 
 sands of the desert. For miles one could have traced this ghastly 
 caravan route by the bones of man and beast which fell by the way- 
 side. 
 
 But today today! chiefly through the establishment of the rail- 
 road, civilization is being introduced by means of little settlements 
 that dot the desert at distant points and serve as commissary stations 
 to give sustenance to the mining camps and ranges, whose residents 
 strive to overcome uninviting natural conditions in hopes of gaining 
 a livelihood and possible wealth. Today, the enterprise of man, first 
 by railway building and then by the invention of modern machinery 
 and various forms of irrigation, is facing the terrors of the desert 
 which vanquished their valiant forefathers and have at last succeeded 
 in encroaching upon the arid waste. 
 
 But what does the future offer? Can hope spring out of this bar- 
 ren and endless field of arid land? As one looks out upon the desert 
 and meditates and contemplates over the past and present, these 
 questions cannot fail but arise. Water ! Water ! Water ! That is the 
 cry that goes up silently but eloquently from the parched dust. And 
 why not water? 
 
 Not many years ago California, whose luxuriant Sacramento 
 Valley adjoins the Humboldt Desert, and the paradise of vineyards 
 and pleasant fruit-growing valleys of Santa Anna, San Gabriel and 
 San Bernardino, to the south, which border on the Mojave Desert 
 (a part of which they once were, and STILL ARE) were, within the 
 memory of many, just as arid as are the sands of the Great American 
 Desert to-day. Irrigation will be the emancipator of the desert! 
 When the increasing influx of foreigners to our shores becomes a 
 matter of important concern, as it should now be, and when the de- 
 velopment of the west becomes a national issue, as it surely must- 
 then will the American mind exert itself, and from watersheds in 
 the north there will flow the life-giving blood through the veins of 
 irrigation that will quicken the pulsation of this enormous fevered 
 body, and from it will spring forth, not only sustenance for man in 
 the shape of grain, cattle, fruit and flowers, but there will arise a land 
 of cities and villages which will be to California what California is 
 to-day to the rest of the country. 
 
Courtesy Southern Pacific Co. and Mr. Frank S. Thattr. 
 
 SCENES ON THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC-THE NORTHWEST AND SACRAMENTO 
 
 VALLEY 
 
 THE GREAT AMERICAN DESERT, 
 
 i Mount Tacoma. 2 Moonlight on Puget Sound. 3 Oneonta Gorge, Cascade Mts. 4 Mt. Ranier. 5 The Backbone of th( 
 Sierra Nevada. 6 The Snowy Crest of Mount Shasta. 7 Sierra Blanca. 8 Sentinel Hotel, Yosemite. 9-11 Rounding Cape Horn 
 10 Lake Tahoe near Tahoe Tavern. 12 The Canyon of the Sacramento. 13 The Upper Sacramento, near Sims. 14 View fron 
 English Hills, near Vacaville, Solano County. 15 Mt. Shasta and Edson Fruit Ranch near Gazelle. 16 Cattle on Rancho del Rio deloi 
 Molinos, near Red Bluff. 17 Looking Southeast over Maywood Colony near Corning. 18 Capitol at Sacramento, California. 19- 
 Head of Capay Valley near Rumsey. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 135 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 T was early on the morning of Saturday, September 3, when 
 we again looked out upon the apparently endless desert. Be- 
 ing far removed from the chain of cities, we would naturally be 
 in the country; where the grass sparkles with dew, the air 
 intoxicating with fragrance lent by the flowers, while the birds should 
 have serenaded us from out of the tree-tops. But alas ! there was no 
 dew, no flowers, nor birds, nor trees. 
 
 Shortly after sunrise the whole country bore a rosy hue ; a vivid 
 rose, with depths of peach color ; a town in the distance was spotted 
 by points of shadow and to our great surprise, some palms were 
 scattered about, gleaming gaily enough in the mournful landscape 
 which for a short moment of freshness seemed to smile at the rising 
 sun. How the palms came to be, or whence they came, were ques- 
 tions we could not answer ; lest they were planted as an experiment by 
 some horticulturist. Vague sounds seemed to penetrate the air with 
 a suggestion of singing that made us understand that every country 
 and land on earth has its joyous awakening. 
 
 Presently we reach a village, whose size might call for the more 
 dignified term "town." It was Wadsworth, Nevada, in the valley of 
 the Truckee where are located the famous borax mines. Wadsworth 
 is 278 miles east of San Francisco. After passing a small station, 
 Vista, Nevada, we reached Reno, one of the most important centers 
 in the state of Nevada and a town with a population of 8,000. 
 
 Reno is the county seat of Washoe county, and was named in 
 honor of General Reno, who was killed at the battle of South Moun- 
 tain. The city is probably the most modern and best equipped in 
 Nevada and is important as an educational, commercial and mining 
 center, and as this is a silver region, the town has extensive smelting 
 mills. 
 
 One of the most important steps yet taken by the United States 
 Government towards irrigating the arid lands of the west has been 
 in the construction of the Truckee-Carson project near Reno. 
 
 The huge headgates on the Truckee-Carson canal are of con- 
 crete, all of one piece, and present an impregnable appearance. With 
 ordinary care they will last for centuries, defying storms and floods 
 and keeping the water under absolute control at all times. The work 
 
136 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 testifies to the fact that the government, with its expert engineers and 
 ample funds, is able to come to the aid of the west with projects of 
 a lasting character, and while encouraging and desiring irrigation 
 work by private capital, has the ability to undertake the greater 
 works with a completeness and permanency beyond the reach of 
 individual funds. By this project water is taken from the Truckee 
 river at a point two miles above Wadsworth, Nevada, to the channel 
 of the Carson river by a canal 31 miles long. The canal will irrigate 
 350,000 acres. 
 
 The opening of the Truckee-Carson project was celebrated just 
 three years from the passage of the Reclamation Act, on June 17, 
 1902. It was the first great step in the rebuilding of Nevada. Shortly 
 after 10 o'clock in the morning, Mrs. Francis G. Newlands, wife of 
 Senator Newlands of Nevada, who is the "Father of the Reclama- 
 tion Act," broke a bottle of champagne over the headgates. The 
 members of the congressional committees, including five of the 17 
 who drafted the Reclamation Act, the governor of Nevada, the gov- 
 ernor of California, the distinguished body of citizens and legislators, 
 turned the cranks, the headgates lifted, and the cool waters of the 
 high Sierra rushed through the canal to the thirsty desert. It was 
 more than a step in the upbuilding of Nevada ; it was a move toward 
 the reclamation of the whole west. It was the consum'mation of the 
 dreams of years, and of the men who had worked long and faithfully. 
 
 Millions of acres of arid land in the west will be thrown open 
 to the farmer through irrigation and the huge projects which the 
 government has on hand under the national Reclamation Act. This 
 act will, it is claimed by the most enthusiastic irrigation experts, 
 open the way for the mightiest AngknSaxon cultivation the world 
 has ever known. The work which the government is executing in 
 constructing great storage and diversion dams, and in building canals, 
 laterals and headgates, is the largest undertaking of the kind in the 
 history of the United States. 
 
 Thirty-one miles southward is Carson City, the capital of Nevada, 
 and 21 miles farther the famous silver mining town of Virginia City, 
 built half way up a steep mountain slope and completely surrounded 
 by mountains. Virginia City stands directly over the noted Corn- 
 stock Lode, and here are the Bonanza Mines, which were such prolific 
 producers in the great silver days. The lode has produced over $450,- 
 000,000, chiefly silver, and it is drained by the Sutro Tunnel, nearly 
 four miles long, which cost $4,500,000 to construct. Here are also the 
 mines of Tonapah. 
 
 Continuing westward, we arrived at Verdi. Shortly after, we 
 reached State Line, a small village whose great importance lies in the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 137 
 
 fact that it marks the boundary line between Nevada and California, 
 and in another moment we were within the great and glorious state 
 of California. It was with the greatest delight that we entered the 
 fairyland of fruit, flower and sunshine, and the things which have 
 made the region famous lay before us in all their splendor. 
 
 Passing Floriston, whose greatest pride lies in a large paper mill, 
 we reached Truckee, the gateway of the wonderful Sacramento 
 Valley, a veritable "Garden of Eden" in its wonderland of agricul- 
 tural bliss. 
 
 While Truckee is 200 miles removed from San Francisco we were 
 greeted at this point with flying banners bearing the insignia "In Hoc 
 Signo Vinces," and the phrase, "Welcome, Sir Knights." As our 
 train entered the station, a delegation of local Sir Knights and their 
 friends greeted us with a rousing welcome and the "Special" stopped 
 long enough to permit us to step out among them and exchange 
 greetings. 
 
 One of the first objects of interest that met our eyes as we 
 alighted was an Indian and his squaw. Mrs. Indian was reclining 
 lazily upon a pile of earth with her face heavily veiled, while Mr. 
 Indian, a dirty and unkempt citizen, tried to play high finance with 
 the passengers. Many efforts were made to secure photographs of 
 the redskin couple, but every effort was met with a firm demand for 
 liberal remuneration. Mr. Indian endeavored to sell permits to take 
 Mrs. Indian's picture at $5.00 per pose, but no one was curious 
 enough to pay that price to have her lift her veil. Nevertheless, 
 several snapshots of the couple were surreptitiously secured. 
 
 We found Truckee an interesting spot, especially so because of 
 the contrast it offered to the long stretch of desert over which we 
 had passed. The town is important as a commercial center because 
 of its being the distributing point for a large tributary country. It 
 was burned down in 1868 and again during the following year. In 
 1870 it was burned down twice ; once more in 1874 and 1875 "China- 
 town" was destroyed by fire. About one-third of the population 
 consists of Chinamen. The town is also a famous mountain resort, 
 being 5,890 feet above sea-level. Lake Tahoe and Independence Lake, 
 both famous mountain lakes, are each about 14 miles from Truckee. 
 Lake Tahoe is one of the most beautiful sheets of water in the world, 
 22 miles long, 10 to 14 miles wide and from 100 to 2,000 feet deep. 
 It is so clear that the bottom is distinctly visible at a depth of 60 to 
 70 feet, surrounded by snow-clad mountains, and yet it never freezes. 
 In a region of many lakes, it is known as "the gem of the high Sierras." 
 
 Three miles west of Truckee, near Lakeview station, we saw 
 Donner Lake from the car window. The lake is named after the 
 
138 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 Donner party who starved in its vicinity in the pioneer days. The 
 lake is a beautiful body of placid water, completely surrounded by 
 lofty mountains. 
 
 Shortly after, we arrived at Summit, the highest point on the 
 Sierra Nevadas, 7,017 feet above the level of the sea. This is not the 
 highest land of the Sierra Nevadas, for the peaks around us rose to 
 an altitude of over 10,000 feet. The scenery was impressive. Bleak 
 and bare granite mountains, deep gorges, sparkling waterfalls and 
 beautiful lakes lie within sight. 
 
 Just before arriving at Summit, a succession of tunnels and 
 snow-sheds were passed through with such rapidity that it was hard 
 to determine just when we emerged from one and entered into an- 
 other. While passing through one of the snow-sheds our coaches 
 became considerably scratched and splintered by a projection. This 
 accident grieved "Woodzie" very much, and while he could by no 
 means be held accountable for the occurrence, he was sadly dis- 
 appointed in the thought of entering the Conclave city with blem- 
 ished cars. 
 
 From Summit the descent was rapid ; the road winding down, 
 mile after mile, while the mountain scenery was stupendous and awe- 
 inspiring in its magnificent grandeur. The little stations we passed 
 on the way carried memory back to the old days by their names, 
 which have the flavor of mining camps. Some were: Rocker Pan, 
 Schovil Pass, Emigrant Gap, Blue Canyon, Shady Run, Towles, Alta, 
 Dutch Flat and Gold Run. At present, however, while mining is 
 still pursued, the land is blooming with orchards and bedecked with 
 vegetation. 
 
 Some distance to the northward, the whole country being moun- 
 tainous and the lower slopes covered with forests of splendid pines, is 
 the grand snow-covered dome of Mount Shasta, one of the noblest 
 of the Cascades (in California called the Coast Range), rising 14,440 
 feet, a huge extinct volcano, having a crater in its western peak 2,500 
 feet deep and three-quarters of a mile wide. Beyond, the Sacramento 
 Valley stretches far away southward, passing Chico and Marysville, 
 to Sacramento. It was to the eastward, near Colonia, that the first 
 discovery of California gold was made in February, 1848, on the 
 farm of Colonel Sutter, the county having been appropriately named 
 El Dorado. 
 
 Reaching Cape Horn we not only entered upon scenes of ut- 
 most grandeur, but entered upon a roadbed of amazing construction. 
 Cape Horn is a projection of rock from out of the mountain a shelf, 
 as it were, carved out of the faces of startling precipices. Around 
 this ledge a framework of track has ingeniously been laid and as the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 139 
 
 train crawls around it, a picture of blue depths was presented that 
 will live forever in memory. As we looked out of the car windows 
 we could see, 2,200 feet below, a mere thread zigzaging hither and 
 thither in its course. It was the American River seeking its golden 
 channel. From the dizzy height we could see the washed-out banks 
 of Iowa Hill to the east, and the orchards and vineyards in the west 
 Southward was a rough sea of mountains whose peaks rose and fell 
 like the wave. 
 
 Passing several small and unimportant villages we reached Au- 
 burn, a beautiful town in the Sierra foothills. It enjoys liberal irri- 
 gation and its surroundings are a maze of orchards, vineyards and 
 other forms of vegetation. It has already attained fame as a health 
 resort because of the evenness of its climate. 
 
 The largest and most comprehensive irrigation project which 
 the government has under consideration is the reclamation of 2,000,000 
 acres of land in the Sacramento valley. Water will be conserved by 
 means of seven huge reservoirs and distributed over the valley, 
 which is 250 miles long and from 20 to 60 miles in breadth. Here 
 the problems of irrigation, reclamation, navigation and drainage arc 
 all closely connected, for, with the storage of waters, the crest of the 
 spring floods, which have so often broken the levees on the lower 
 reaches of the Sacramento river and destroyed millions of dollars 
 worth of property, will be controlled. The climatic conditions in 
 the Sacramento valley are far less extreme than those in the desert 
 regions. 
 
 Although the government contemplates irrigation for the bene- 
 fit of homesteaders, and endeavors so far as possible to undertake 
 works with the view of bringing water to available government lands, 
 yet, in the event that individuals are willing to sub-divide lands, and 
 to sign a contract which will prevent land speculation anticipating 
 increased values through irrigation, irrigation works will be under- 
 taken under the Reclamation Act where the land is in private owner- 
 ship. This is the case in the Salt River valley, Arizona, where a 
 dam capable of impounding enough water to irrigate 200,000 acres of 
 land will be constructed. The settlers in that section have gone 
 ahead and accomplished marvels; the government is coming to their 
 aid. In the Sacramento valley the land is mainly in large holdings, 
 there being individual ranches of 100,000 acres in extent. The Cali- 
 fornia promotion committee has heard from many of the big land 
 owners that they will sub-divide their holdings. 
 
 Presently excessive heat seemed to quiver in the air everywhere. 
 Looking far down in the valleys below, the origin was detected in 
 a huge raging forest fire. The baking atmosphere was distressing, 
 
140 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 while the reflection of the sun from the red, sandy earth, was blind- 
 ing. The sky was like an oven-top without ventilation, the wind 
 which was carried up from the forest fire was so pungent that it was 
 difficult to keep the hand out of the car window any length of time. 
 
 Each succeeding flame burst forth with greater radiance, en- 
 veloping each previous one in its blaze that seemed to illuminate the 
 very skies. Aided by a brisk wind, the fire spread rapidly, and with 
 the continued cracking of burning trees, saplings and bushes, like 
 charges of musketry, a thrill of excitement was lent to the destruc- 
 tive scenes. Trees creaked, groaned, then fell with a splintering 
 crash before the furiously raging demon of fire. Clouds upon clouds 
 of smoke lifted themselves from the scene of devastation like curtains 
 that arise to disclose the ravages of an unchecked onslaught. 
 
 Coats and vests were laid aside while we sought the good, old 
 commissary car as does the wayfarer an oasis on the desert. The 
 heat was sufficiently intense to induce thermometers to boil when com- 
 pelled to face it and make the mercury run from the tutoe to seek 
 shelter elsewhere. 
 
 The fire in the valley spread rapidly, and the train was sent along 
 with increasing speed. We learned subsequently that the fire (a day 
 or two later) reached the snow-sheds at Blue Canyon, Towles and 
 Reno, and that not only did the railroad suffer great loss, but 
 traffic was tied up for a day or more, delaying many Knight Templar 
 "Specials." 
 
 The fruit-growing towns of Auburn, New Castle, Penryn, Loomis, 
 Rocklin, Roseville and Antelope were passed and the whole country 
 was rife with orange, lemon and apricot orchards and vineyards, while 
 other semi-tropical fruits grew riotously. 
 
 After a delightful ride through this garden country we finally 
 reached the beautiful city of Sacramento, 90 miles east of San Fran- 
 cisco. As we entered the station, a big crowd was at hand to give 
 us a rousing welcome, and when the train came to a stop we were met 
 by an escort of Sir Knights from San Francisco who greeted us with 
 sincere and marked cordiality. They were jolly, good fellows and 
 their every action bespoke hospitality. 
 
 It transpired that one of the escorts was formerly a resident of 
 Allegheny, and while we were shaking hands, one with the other, 
 an impressive scene ensued when Sir William G. Lee and this former 
 Alleghenian recognized one another. Never was a more enthusiastic 
 greeting exchanged. With a kiss they threw their arms around each 
 other's necks. It was a marked example of how truly small the world 
 is, and in what unlooked-for places we may encounter those whom 
 we best know. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 141 
 
 The meeting in general at the Sacramento station was impres- 
 sive. Never was a better example given of man meeting man, friend 
 meeting friend, brother meeting brother, with hand full of welcome 
 in its fraternal grasp and heart full of love in its every pulsation. 
 
 Sacramento, the capital of the state, is a city of about 35,000 
 population. As a city, it is probably one of the most beautiful com- 
 munities in the country. Its streets are well shaded, while beautiful 
 gardens blooming with almost tropical luxuries, abound on every 
 side. In enterprise the city is also deserving of great respect. This 
 is best shown in the fact that in 1850 a fire left but one house stand- 
 ing; in 1854 a fire again destroyed the city; in 1851 and 1852 floods 
 caused devastation, and again in 1861 and 1862 the city was in- 
 undated. Sacramento arose dauntlessly from all these elements to 
 greater prosperity, and now has established itself above the flood 
 line. 
 
 The escort boarded our train and we started. What robust, 
 jolly, good fellows they were! They too, had suffered perceptibly 
 from the excessive heat; a fact that was eloquently told by their 
 wilted collars. They assured us, however, that within an hour we 
 could wear our light overcoats with every degree of comfort, which, 
 as soon as we reached San Francisco Bay, proved eminently true. 
 
 The run from Sacramento to San Francisco under escort of these 
 royal Californians was a fitting, crowning pleasure to our eventful 
 transcontinental tour. Everyone was trying to hear and be heard 
 at the same time. Both guests and hosts had so much to tell one 
 another and so many questions to ask and answer. Not to be out- 
 done we decided, inasmuch as the Californians were escorting us to 
 the Conclave city, that we would do a little escorting ourselves. And 
 we did. We escorted them into the commissary car. An impressive 
 scene then took place. We put our California brethren through all 
 the degrees from 118 in the sun to one or two~below in the refriger- 
 ator. There always were several below in the refrigerator, due of 
 course to the ice! 
 
 So impressive were the greetings exchanged in the commissary 
 car that even Johnstone expressed a wish to become a Knight. He 
 confided this to Schwerd, and the latter informed him that he 
 had one advantage ; while some people might say that he, as compared 
 to our party, was as different as darkness and dawn, there was no 
 question but that he looked like a night his complexion being dark- 
 ness itself. 
 
 As the "Special" neared San Francisco, our committee issued 
 orders that every Sir Knight don his fatigue uniform. Then the 
 usual skirmish of dressing and packing-up ensued. As we reached 
 
142 A' MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 Benicia, formerly the capital of the state, the atmosphere became 
 considerably cooler. Passing the little station of Port Costa we 
 entered upon the last hour's run into San Francisco. 
 
 On the right, for the entire distance, lies the magnificent expanse 
 of San Francisco Bay, a magnificent inland sea and one of the finest 
 harbors in the world, 50 miles long and 10 miles wide, connected with 
 the Pacific Ocean by the strait of the Golden Gate, five miles long 
 and a mile wide. The bay is separated from the ocean by a long 
 peninsula, having the city of San Francisco on the inside of its north- 
 ern extremity. A delightful ride along the bayside, made pleasanter 
 by the cooling winds that blew over the waters, brought us to the 
 beautiful tree-bowered city of Oakland, from which point the first 
 glimpse of the Pacific was obtained and then the Golden Gate opened 
 before our eyes. 
 
 As our train wended its way slowly through the beautiful garden 
 city of Oakland, we could clearly see the heights, slopes and levels 
 of a great city across the bay. From out of the massive built-up 
 blocks there arose the spires and steeples that mark a great munici- 
 pality, while high above the shore proudly floated hundreds of flags 
 and banners proclaiming to the breeze that it was a city of joy and 
 festivity. 
 
 It was the Conclave city ! A city which we had come thousands 
 of miles to realize and as it stood out before us in bold relief against 
 the deep-blue sky, we gazed upon it with mental satisfaction in the 
 achievement of our ambitions and desires, which had overcome 
 mountain, vale and prairie yes, and even the desert. 
 
 Here we crossed the bay, entered the Ferry depot, and set foot 
 upon the soil of San Francisco. The ladies were placed in the care of 
 a committee, while the Sir Knights formed in line for a march and 
 escort to the hotel. 
 
 At the entrance of the Ferry Depot we were met by a detach- 
 ment of Sir Knights awaiting us. After an exchange of courtesies be- 
 tween Sirs Harry W. Lowrie, Herman Flechsig and Oscar Schulze, 
 our committee, and the San Francisco Fraters, the Sir Knights of the 
 Conclave city at once assumed the duties of escort and both bodies, 
 under the banners of their respective Commanderies and headed by a 
 magnificent band, moved up Market street. 
 
 Once on the great thoroughfare the sidewalks became speedily 
 crowded. The march up Market street, escort and pilgrims marking 
 time to stirring music of the band, presented a pretty sight and 
 gained special attractiveness. 
 
 From Market street we turned into Ellis street and as we drew 
 up in front of the hotel the crowd had grown considerably in size. 
 
Twenty-Ninth Triennial Conclave 
 
 ; -^ ^- ~ 
 |<-- 
 
 e 
 
 San Francisco, CaL September MDCGCCf 
 
 scfl, San Francisco, Cal. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 143 
 
 The command was halted in front of the hotel and the escort stepped 
 forward and bade the Sir Knights of Allegheny Commandery wel- 
 come to the city. Members of our committee responded fittingly, 
 after which personal congratulations were exchanged and the warm 
 grasp of the hand, the friendly and Knightly welcome to each and all 
 of us by the local Sir Knights present, made us feel perfectly at home. 
 The band then struck up another air of welcome, after which the es- 
 cort gave the marching salute and at a quick pace they returned from 
 whence they had come to meet and greet other arrivals. 
 
 First impressions convinced us that our headquarters were not 
 of the highest standard. No meals were provided in the establish- 
 ment ; the accommodations were limited and what service there was, 
 was not of the best. However, we were quite willing to overlook a 
 few discomforts and make due allowance for the crowded and con- 
 gested condition of the city, and after our experiences at the inn (on 
 the border of the Yellowstone Park) we felt that we were "trained 
 to the minute" to endure any and all hardships of hotel life. 
 
 Europe may pride itself upon its cosmopolitan hotels, but it is 
 safe to declare that a hotel never existed on the two hemispheres 
 which was better equipped to entertain a congress of nations than 
 was the one that sheltered us during the Conclave. The hostelry 
 was conducted by a lady proprietor and manager. A small weazy 
 fellow that appeared to be semi-French and semi-Italian, was gen- 
 eral utility man and served as head porter and head bell-boy. He 
 stepped as daintily and gently as a cat crossing a muddy street. A 
 noisy, irritable Chinaman ran the elevator; male Japanese did the 
 housework and negroes supervised the furnaces, while a Russian was 
 in command of the boiler-room. When this international staff of 
 employees became divided in their opinions, which was not an un- 
 usual occurrence, a debate ensued that was not only forceful, but 
 as interesting as it was variated. The Chinese elevator man became 
 easily angered, and when under such a spell would deliver an oration 
 in jargon, and relieve himself of argument in a mixture of Chinese 
 and English that was a privilege to hear, and fully worth the cost 
 of a week's accommodation. He was always ready to begin and 
 continue an argument and was the means of providing the best 
 entertainment the hotel afforded. In starting the elevator, he would 
 frequently enter into an argument with some passenger on the 
 ground floor and continue to expel his confused and stimulating dis- 
 course during the complete ascent. As the shrill voice of the Mon- 
 golian grew fainter and fainter, while the elevator continued its 
 upward course, the effect was most amusing, recalling to mind the 
 argument with a Russian who went up in a balloon. The Japanese 
 
144 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 were about the most obliging and quiet .nation represented on the 
 "board of control," although it would have taken something more 
 than the Hague Peace Tribunal to maintain harmony among all 
 the foreign ambassadors represented under this one roof. 
 
 Entering the hotel, we were within a small lobby where a stair- 
 way and elevator crowded each other in an effort to find place. The 
 "office" was on the second floor. It was about the size of a "Punch 
 and Judy" cabinet, and bore an opening similar to a ticket office 
 window. It was from this point of vantage that "Judy" transacted 
 her business. Lined about the "office" were a few chairs offering 
 unenthusiastic welcome to the weary. In order to avoid publicity 
 in case of an international conflict with the employees of the house, 
 most of our Sir Knights subscribed themselves upon the hotel reg- 
 isters under non-de-plumes. According to "Judy's" records such 
 illustrious persons as "John L. Sullivan," "Kit Carson," "Buffalo 
 Bill," the "James Boys" and Pawnee Bill" were finding shelter in 
 the house. 
 
 We were assigned to our quarters, and probably in an effort to 
 keep us from becoming too lonesome, four and six members of the 
 party were in many instances assigned to one room. After 
 supervising the proper placing of our baggage, we formed an at- 
 tacking force and left the hotel in search of the best dinner in San 
 Francisco, and surely there is no reason to believe but that we secured 
 it. 
 
 No conception can be formed of the appetites we poor and 
 weary pilgrims had. We were being hourly benefited by the ocean 
 breeze and the crisp, bracing air that swept over us from the Pacific, 
 notwithstanding the fact that since leaving home we had seen each 
 other growing stouter day by day. 
 
 We were not compelled to search long before we came upon a 
 large, handsome and tastefully decorated dining place, of which the 
 city is blessed with many. Here we not only found comfort, but 
 fared sumptuously of a magnificent dinner comprising all the good 
 things of this life. 
 
 Everything about the place was tidy and clean, the food was 
 well prepared, and the waiters attentive and polite. An air of fes- 
 tivity pervaded the place. Scores of Sir Knights and their ladies 
 were constantly coming and going, and all was in gala attire. Every- 
 one was affable and sociable; laughter, joy and good cheer were 
 predominant. Upwards of 200 sat about innumerable small tables, 
 feasting and conversing. The streets were thronged with joyous 
 pleasure-seekers and entrancing music prevailed, both within and 
 without. Life and action all about us lent enthusiasm, while a dizzy 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOUDEN GATE 145 
 
 maze of elaborate illumination and decorations gave the whole picture 
 a magnificent setting. 
 
 The city was dressed in holiday attire, her gates were open to 
 receive her guests, her streets and homes were lighted, the tables 
 were spread and the feast was set for the Sir Knights that came 
 across the continent and from beyond the sea to partake of the 
 blessings so lavishly showered upon the state. And there was ample 
 for all who gathered within the "Golden Gate" during the festive 
 week to feast their eyes upon the great display and Knightly hos- 
 pitality of the metropolis of the Pacific. 
 
 After dinner, we walked for miles over the principal thorough- 
 fares. All were brilliantly lighted in bright colors and flashing con- 
 stellations, while handsomely attired men and women thronged the 
 sidewalks. It was a scene of splendor, activity and cheerfulness, 
 and conversation and laughter prevailed everywhere. There were 
 greetings and exchange of salutes almost continuously among 
 Sir Knights who had known no previous relationship other than the 
 inseparable bonds of fraternity. 
 
 The splendor probably inspired Sir Robert to take a step which 
 he had hoped to realize since childhood. From earliest infancy it 
 had been his cherished ambition to some day be shaven in the 
 most gorgeous, palatial barbershop that existed this side of fairy- 
 land. To repose at full length upon a cushioned reclining chair 
 surrounded in a confusion of luxury. His ambitions sought frescoed 
 walls and gilded arches with vistas of columns stretching far above 
 him, Oriental perfumes and incense to intoxicate his senses and 
 soothe him into a dreamland of music and song. Sir Robert came 
 across an establishment during his walk which offered him a real- 
 ization of his desire. As he sank into a chair and ordered the full 
 menu, he dozed into a continuation of his dream, and felt that at the 
 end of an hour he would awake to find his face as smooth and soft 
 as an infant's ; that his every hope would be realized, and that de- 
 parting, he would lift his hand and declare: "Heaven bless you, my 
 son !" but Sir Robert didn't say anything of the sort neither did he 
 get a realization of his dream but he did get a bill for $2.85, and 
 his blessing well, that is a private matter which it is not the privi- 
 lege of the writer to go into. 
 
 Several members of our party took short street-car rides in an 
 effort to get more extended views of the city. In one of these parties 
 was Sir Reese Tannehill, and while feasting his eyes upon the great 
 panorama on the sidewalks, his car gave a sudden lurch and Sir 
 Tannehill's arm went through the glass in the door, completely shat- 
 (10) 
 
tering it. He delivered a short extemporaneous speech to the con- 
 ductor, making offer to pay for the damage. The latter graciously 
 refused to accept the kind offer, declaring that Sir Reese could lay 
 the matter before the superintendent, who was stationed further up 
 the line. When this individual was found, he declared that Sir 
 Tannehill's pain would recompense the company's pane, and gave 
 him permission "to go and break three or four more" and no charge 
 would be permitted. The incident served to illustrate the regard 
 which the whole city held for their guests, and the efforts of every 
 citizen to encourage the visitors to have the kindliest feelings towards 
 Frisco. 
 
 Never did imagination in its most fanciful flights through fairy- 
 land realize such grandeur and brilliancy of illumination as the 
 streets of San Francisco presented on this night. It appeared as if 
 every electric light bulb in creation, of every conceivable hue, had been 
 pressed into service in the decorations. Not only was the city of 
 San Francisco extravagantly liberal in adding its share to the gen- 
 eral glory, but the state of California, through the Harbor Commis- 
 sioners, contributed generously in decorating the Ferry Building in 
 a sumptuous manner, while "Uncle Sam" himself could not be de- 
 nied the privilege of joining in the festivities. Out in the harbor were a 
 number of warships, all strung with electric lights, while the pene- 
 trating white beams of their searchlights crossed and re-crossed 
 the sky. 
 
 Could the padres of old have stepped from the Ferry at the 
 foot of Market street on this Saturday night, after the current had 
 electrified the myriads of lights on the broad thoroughfare, they 
 would have become wondrously amazed at the glory of their beloved 
 city. Strangers arriving in San Francisco from across the bay im- 
 agined that the city was aflame ; for the illumination cast a glow 
 upon the sky as if caused by a great conflagration. 
 
 Thousands of necklaces of diamonds glistened in the business 
 sections of the city. Lights of every color, grouped in degree 
 emblems and other designs crossed and re-crossed each other in 
 many a sparkling line and curve. Colonnades, columns, buildings, 
 and designs, all alight with glowing blubs, was the gorgeous sight 
 that lent the carnival spirit to the throngs that passed under them. 
 The brilliant display stretched from the Ferry building at Market 
 street to Tenth street, and included one great loop that reached out 
 to take in Union Square. Besides this, there were innumerable 
 illuminations over the many miles of streets leading from the main 
 thoroughfare, that added their share to the general glory. 
 
 The Harbor Commissioners had every light in the Ferry build- 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 147 
 
 ing in operation, and the great Nave with its shower of lights 
 helped dazzle the spectators. The building was outlined in fairy 
 tracery against the sky, and directly under the large clock on the 
 building shone a twenty-foot emblem in its appropriate colors. At 
 Steuart and Market streets was the beginning of a lane of lights that 
 stretched out for two miles in relentless brilliancy. The lane passed 
 through a magnificent colonnade of double columns, patterned after 
 Corinthian architecture. On each side of the street and suspended 
 between the columns were innumerable signs which shone out 
 "welcome," while every conceivable Masonic emblem was repre- 
 sented in color and light. 
 
 At Post and New Montgomery streets the Masonic Temple was 
 ablaze with lights and every insignia of the order hung in illumina- 
 tion from the building. The Union Trust building opposite was 
 outlined and strung with myriads of lights, while public and office 
 buildings on every side joined in creating further brilliancy. 
 
 The "Court of Honor," at the intersection of Market, Kearney, 
 Geary and Third streets, over which much skill and care had been 
 expended, proved to be the grandest display that San Francisco had 
 ever known. From stout cables stretching from high buildings on 
 each side of Market street was suspended a glittering bell-shaped 
 mass of electric lights with a rim 40 feet in diameter, with strings 
 tapering to the top lights, while in the center of the web, blazing 
 like jewels, hung the signs of the order. A huge cross and crown 
 and the motto, "In Hoc Signo Vinces," all thickly incrusted with 
 lights, shone from within this sunburst of electric jewels. At its 
 outer edge, suspended from a huge ring of light which required con- 
 siderable thought and ingenuity to devise, were suspended at inter- 
 vals every emblem and degree insignia, all richly illuminated in true 
 color. The nearby buildings, including the Palace Hotel and "Call" 
 building, were outlined with lights and hung with mottoes and 
 designs. The thousands of lights concentrated in this court made 
 that part of Market street as light, if not lighter, than day. 
 
 Both sides of Geary street were illuminated with arcs as far as 
 Hotel Francis, which was also brilliantly illuminated and decorated. 
 Union Square was surrounded by white masts that supported girdles 
 of light, while connecting the masts were strings of lights and Japanese 
 lanterns, with clusters of electric bulbs within. 
 
 On Market street, beyond the "Court of Honor," the canopy 
 of light continued to the great "Colonnade" that extended from Fifth 
 to Sixth street. The approach to both sides of the "Colonnade" led 
 between Corinthian columns twined with strings of frosted lights, 
 while in the center stood a three-column "Triumphal Arch," from 
 
148 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 which was suspended the cross of the "Most Eminent Grand Master," 
 heavily embossed with lights, and, together with the loops of lights 
 which strung from curb to curb, attracted crowds to the "Colonnade." 
 
 The City Hall was a feature of illumination; it was gorgeously 
 decorated. The main building was outlined and figured in light, 
 while the dome was ablaze. 
 
 The uptown illumination was particularly beautiful at Mechanic's 
 Pavilion, which was liberally decorated with light in all manner of 
 designs. Across Larkin street blazed the sign "Headquarters Cal- 
 ifornia Commanderies." Within the Pavilion the illuminations were 
 more compact but equally as brilliant and elaborate. The various 
 headquarters of the different Commanderies of the state were 
 marked by novel ideas in light arrangement, while in the banquet 
 hall, in Hayes street, were lights and Chinese lanterns entwined 
 among the foliage and flowers, making a fairy representation of a 
 Hong Kong teagarden. In the upper balcony was a representation 
 of Sierra scenery, and among the forest of evergreen were strung 
 myriads of lights and scores of designs. 
 
 Some idea of the magnitude of the illumination can be gleaned 
 when it is known that the lowest competitive bid for the lighting 
 plant was $53,000; the cost for current $25,000; while 150,000 
 electric lights and 10,000 Chinese and Japanese lanterns of every 
 color and size were in use. In the "Court of Honor" alone 20,000 
 incandescent lights were in service, while 7,500 were aglow in the 
 "Colonnade." These figures refer only to the public demonstration, 
 while the electric displays and decorations made by individuals, 
 business houses, store-keepers, hotels, office buildings and other 
 private concerns were beyond conjecture. 
 
 All this grandeur, and the prevailing good cheer of the merry 
 crowds that thronged the streets in their gala attire, made that first 
 night in Frisco a stirring and memorable one. We cannot recall 
 half the places we visited or what we particularly saw; we had no 
 disposition to examine carefully into anything we could only glance 
 and go to move and keep moving. The spirit of the Conclave was 
 upon us while the music, brilliancy and glory of it all intoxicated the 
 senses. Finally, at a late hour, we sought rest in one of the great 
 casinos. Hundreds came and went and dined in this gilded palace, al- 
 though it would have been difficult to make an accurate count of 
 the number present at any one time, because of the mirrored walls, 
 which stretched the assemblage out into countless numbers. Young 
 and old alike, all richly attired, sat in couples and groups about in- 
 numerable tables eating of the good things of earth and engaged 
 in a din of conversation that dazed the senses. Gathered about 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 149 
 
 on a balcony were others similarly engaged, while in one corner, 
 hidden by banks of ferns, an immense orchestra made frantic efforts 
 to be heard above the din of laughter and clatter. 
 
 As a final climax, and to close the first day in Frisco in all its 
 cheerfulness, we sought our rooms in the hotel and climbed into our 
 sumptuous (?) beds everything gradually and surely forcing upon 
 us the coveted consciousness that at last beyond any question we 
 were really in San Francisco. We were forgetful of all else, and 
 came to a full realization of the accomplishment of our mission in 
 all its enchanting delightfulness. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 S the glorious sun rose out of the eastern horizon and spread 
 its resistless rays upon this beautiful western city on Sun- 
 day, September 4, it disclosed a community of splendor. The 
 nodding plumes and doffing of caps and hats on every 
 thoroughfare at an early hour, told the story. 
 
 And there was much to induce early rising. The affection of 
 brotherhood was paramount in every heart, and the fact of the real- 
 ization of family reunion of brethren from every state and clime was 
 in every mind. To greet and be greeted, to meet and be met, to 
 shake a brother's hand and have a brother shake one's own hand, 
 were some of the incentives which overcame every encouragement 
 toward inactivity, while the program of the day was one that ap- 
 pealed to both the eye and mind. 
 
 Special services were to be conducted in churches of many de- 
 nominations, morning, afternoon and evening. Probably the most 
 inspiring religious service of the Conclave, and which touched the 
 heart and fired the patriotism of everyone who was fortunate enough 
 to attend, was the grand memorial sacred concert, which the program 
 announced would be held in Mechanic's Pavilion in the evening, 
 under the auspices of California Commandery No. 1, in honor of the 
 late Sir Knight William McKinley, the martyred President of the 
 United States. 
 
 Incoming trains were still bringing thousands of Sir Knights 
 from all sections of the country into the Conclave city. The escort- 
 
150 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 ing committees were attending to their functions from sunrise until 
 sunrise. 
 
 The religious services drew multitudes, of which many could 
 not be accommodated. Thousands were turned away. The dis- 
 appointed ones and others who knew full well the inability of the 
 monster Mechanic's Pavilion to shelter all who would seek ad- 
 mittance, spent the day in sight-seeing in a quiet way. 
 
 The Grand Encampment of the United States attended a most 
 impressive service in the morning, in the First Congregational 
 Church. They were escorted to and from the church by Golden 
 Gate Commandery No. 16. The doors of the edifice had been opened 
 long before the hour set for the beginning of the services, and all 
 space not reserved for the Grand Encampment and their escort had 
 long been filled when the two columns of Knights, with white-lined 
 capes thrown back, and white-plumed chapeaux held over the right 
 shoulder, marched into the building through the rear doors under 
 escort of the handsomely attired Golden Gate Commandery No. 16. 
 
 At the pulpit were V. E. Sir Daniel C. Roberts, D. D., Grand 
 Prelate of the Grand Encampment of Knights Templar U. S. A. ; Sir 
 Knight William H. Jordan, Prelate of Golden Gate Commandery No. 
 16, and the Rev. George C. Adams, D. D., pastor of the church, all 
 of whom rose and stood in an attitude of greeting and welcome until 
 the guests of honor and their escort were seated. 
 
 The church was elaborately decorated in floral designs emblem- 
 atic of the order represented, a huge electric cross of red flaming 
 above the organ loft. The services were beautiful and impressive 
 in song, lesson and discourse, and were appreciated by an audience 
 which packed the galleries and filled every seat left vacant in the 
 body of the house after the Sir Knights were accommodated. 
 
 The responsive reading and the Litany of the order weie con- 
 ducted by Prelate Sir Knight William H. Jordan, the invocations 
 were by the pastor and the sermon was preached by V. E. Sir Daniel 
 C. Roberts, D. D. 
 
 Seldom has a more beautiful ceremony been witnessed than that 
 which was held in Mechanic's Pavilion in the afternoon. The main 
 floor was converted into a California forest of tall redwood trees, 
 whose high tops and heads reached far above the balconies, and 
 whose boughs formed an indescribably beautiful canopy overhead. 
 The galleries were covered with green in such manner as to form 
 a continuation of the trees. 
 
 Ascending the stairway to the gallery the visitors encountered 
 a group of three figures, representing two nymphs tempting Pan to 
 drink from a lily which was held just beyond his reach, while on 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 151 
 
 the opposite side of the gallery hung the original copy of Earl Cum- 
 mings' "At Play." 
 
 In the annex the California Commanderies had their head- 
 quarters and dispensed refreshments in the Chinese teagarden, 
 fitted up in keeping with the original article, as though transplanted 
 from the Celestial empire. The art gallery was probably the finest 
 piece of decorative work ever done beneath that roof. The ceilings 
 and alcoves were tinted in cream and green. The walls and floors 
 of two sections were covered with green burlap and two other sec- 
 tions were covered with burlap in the natural color. More than 
 2000 yards of burlap were required in this work. 
 
 Seventy-two beautiful colonnades, forming a magnificent court, 
 had been placed in sections 2 and 3 of the gallery. Each colonnade 
 was mounted with a large eagle about thirty-six inches high, and a 
 fine silken flag. Between sections, beautiful arbors composed of 
 colonnades and arranged so as to represent the California missions, 
 made a beautiful effect. The arbors contained a number of red 
 lanterns from which electric bulbs cast a soft light. The reception 
 room at one end of the building was fitted in Chinese fashion, the 
 fittings consisting of the choicest furnishings obtainable in China- 
 town. A minature forest had been planted at the west end of the 
 upper gallery for Santa Rosa Commandery. The seven Command- 
 eries which jointly occupied one section of the Pavilion had taverns 
 built of rough timber, typical of the early days of California. 
 
 It was amidst these beautiful surroundings that the afternoon 
 and evening services were held. Long before the hour set for the 
 afternoon services, a continued flow of humanity began to pour into 
 the building. At the first notes of the trumpet the Sir Knights fell 
 into line behind a screen of evergreen at the front of the pavilion 
 and as the band played "Stand Up, Stand Up for Jesus," they 
 marched slowly up the center isle. Two by two they came, and 
 as the isle filled with marching men robed in baldric and snowy 
 plumes, a more picturesque sight could not be imagined. On they 
 came, until the floor and platform was a moving mass of velvet 
 folds, kindly faces and nodding plumes. 
 
 As the Sir Knights reached the platform and stood in their places, 
 there was a wave of the Commander's hand and instantly all heads 
 were uncovered. Then, after the singing of the last verses of the pro- 
 cessional, all took their seats. An elaborate musical program was 
 carried out and fitting prayers offered, after which the Rev. Dr. 
 Frederick W. Clampett, rector of Trinity Church, delivered an im- 
 pressive sermon, in which he told of the sterling Christianity advo- 
 cated by Templarhood, the solemnity of their service, and concluded 
 
152 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 by paying fitting tribute to late President McKinley, and holding 
 him and his character before his hearers as an example of manhood 
 and all the qualities which tend to make beauty of character. 
 
 Nor was the evening service less impressive. Ablaze with a 
 thousand lights, splendid with a myriad of colored incandescent 
 bulbs patterned in symbols of Free Masonry, and thronged with 
 an audience of 15,000 people, each one of whom sat with bowed head 
 in respect to the memory of Sir Knight William McKinley, who three 
 years before had gone to join the Grand Commandery on high, was 
 the solemn picture that presented itself. So eager was the multitude 
 to take opportunity in respecting the former Sir Knight president, 
 hero, statesman and humanitarian that fully 5000 were turned away 
 from the doors for lack of seating capacity. The immense stage 
 reserved for the Sir Knights and their families and the musicians, 
 was decorated with flowers and banks of evergreen. On all sides 
 the floral effects added to the beauty of the interior. Large Amer- 
 ican flags were draped at one end of the hall, while bunting and gar- 
 lands of blossoms swung out from the balconies. 
 
 The program opened with a measured dirge, followed by the 
 overture from "Tannhauser." With the closing strains the drill 
 corps of the California Commandery entered the hall, accompanied 
 by the vested choir of Trinity Church. Lights were dimmed, and as 
 the group formed in picturesque tableaux the singers began the 
 strains of the beautiful melody (a) "Lead, Kindly Light." The 
 association of the hymn with the martyred President was never 
 more keenly realized and more than one eye grew dim as the words 
 of the sacred song fell on the hushed assembly, (b) "The Lord's 
 Prayer" (music by John Hendon Pratt), (c) "Onward, Christian 
 Soldiers," "Sanctus" from mass "Sollenelle" (Gounod) ; following 
 a selection by the orchestra, Sir Knight Samuel M. Shortridge de- 
 livered an oration, and after him came a rendition of "Lead Thou 
 Me On," by the Templar Choir of the California Commandery; par- 
 aphrase on "Nearer, My God, to Thee ," (Reeves) ; soprano solo, 
 "The Holy City," Miss Millie Flynn; transcription on Schubert's 
 "Serenade" (Lizst) ; grand chorus of 500 voices, under direction of 
 Professor John W. McKenzie (a) "The Lost Chord" (Sullivan), (b) 
 "Rock of Ages" (the audience arose and joined in singing the last 
 number) ; "Angelus" from "Suite Scenes Pittoresque" (Massenet) ; 
 "The Star-Spangled Banner," Miss Millie Flynn ; "Tenting To- 
 Night," rendered by the Temple Choir in costume and the singing 
 of "America," in unison, terminated the impressive services. 
 
If there is one spot in San Francisco of which every Californian 
 is proud, and justly so, it is the Golden Gate Park, covering an ex- 
 panse of over 1,000 acres. Its beauty is due, first to climatic con- 
 ditions, second to its topography. Beautiful shubbery, abundant 
 bloom, varied landscapes and artistic statuary are here. Wide 
 stretchea of grassy plain are succeeded by beautiful eminences, at the 
 foot of which are on one hand placid lakes, on the other the glistening 
 waves of the Pacific. It is rife with beautiful buildings and walks, 
 while dense foliage and flowers bloom the year round. As a special 
 compliment to the Conclave visitors, a score of floral designs, worked 
 into Masonic emblems, were in view throughout the park. Among 
 points of interest within its bounds are the Conservatory, Aviary, 
 Museum, Egyptian Art Building, Buffalo Paddock, Japanese Garden, 
 Stowe Lake, Huntington Falls, Strawberry Hill, Lake Alvord, Chil- 
 dren's House and Playground, Commissioner's Lodge, many beautiful 
 statues, a well stocked zoo and a bandstand where 45 pieces play each 
 Sunday and holidays. Thirty-five years ago the site was a series of 
 desolate sand dunes, barren of vegetation. To-day, its beauties fas- 
 cinate and hold the visitor spellbound. 
 
 On the sunset edge and in proximity to the Golden Gate 
 Park, is the Cliff House. Situated upon a rocky bluff overlooking 
 the Pacific Ocean and a precipitous beach, the Cliff House affords 
 a sight that cannot be erased from memory. A portion of the build- 
 ing rises high above the ocean and one can sit and watch the breakers 
 dash wildly against the cliffs as they roll in from shores afar. 
 
 Out in the ocean, a cable's length from shore, are the celebrated 
 Seal Rocks. Immense wave-washed monuments that rise high out 
 of the water, they afford a resting place for a colony of huge seals 
 that warm themselves in the kindly sunshine after a frolic in the 
 salt sea. Their movements are interesting, their barking being dis- 
 tinctly heard above the roar of the surf, while countless numbers of 
 sea gulls and other waterfowl circle above and perch upon the rocks 
 in agreeable companionship with the seals. 
 
 To the right of the Cliff House are the famous Sutro Baths, said 
 to be the largest in the world. They are 500 feet long and 254 feet 
 wide and hold 1,804,962 gallons of water which comes from the sea, 
 and towering above them is the magnificent sky-battlement known as 
 Sutro Heights a private property open to the public and embellished 
 by landscape gardens and statuary. From this place a majestic pano- 
 rama of the shore is afforded for many miles. 
 
 It was these and many other beauty spots that the Sir Knights 
 and their ladies visited during that Sunday afternoon, but go where 
 they might, the glittering uniforms, elaborate decorations and general 
 
154 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 brilliancy encouraged the predominating feeling of good cheer, buoy- 
 ancy, laughter and merriment. And what endless opportunity for 
 sight-seeing the City of the Golden Gate affords ! What beauty spots 
 created both by Nature and man abound in all directions! How 
 liberally has the Maker showered His blessings upon this exit of 
 America. But of this, more anon. 
 
 The evening was spent in drives, trolley rides, walks and visits 
 to the many Commandery headquarters which were extremely liberal 
 in their hospitality. Other diversions as were consistent with the 
 day were indulged in, although a great number of the visitors at- 
 tended the McKinley Memorial Service. 
 
 Returning to our headquarters that night, there was a general 
 stampede for writing material and a concentrated effort made to 
 inform "the folks at home" of our conditions mentally and physically. 
 Some began to describe the beauties of the Conclave, but were igno- 
 minously defeated because of the limited time that was allotted for 
 letter-writing, while others, finding themselves deluged in an effort 
 to deal even in generalities, restricted themselves to discussing the 
 weather and their health. 
 
 It was also at this time that the historians of the pilgrimage 
 retreated in wild confusion. At the very outset from Allegheny many 
 of the pilgrims had supplied themselves with diaries and liberal am- 
 munition in the shape of pens and pencils with which to chronicle any 
 and all events that might occur on the transcontinental tour. 
 
 For a time ambition kept apace of events. Then gradually, one 
 by one, the historians began to fall by the wayside, while others 
 formed a rear guard by keeping three or four days behind current 
 events. However, with the activity, boundless interest and fellow- 
 ship of the Conclave, and the myriads of rich pleasures at hand, the 
 regiment of historians was completely annihilated. Some had not 
 yet climbed Pike's Peak when they reached Frisco (according to 
 their diaries) while others were just noting the fact that we had 
 visited the Mormon Temple in Salt Lake City. 
 
 One of these diaries, which started out with a noble purpose 
 and met with an abrupt conclusion, was discovered in one of the 
 wastebaskets of our San Francisco hotel. It was prefaced with a 
 most worthy resolution and concluded with a brief but interesting 
 tale, as follows: 
 
 "It is my purpose to chronicle in detail, each evening, the events 
 of the day as they occur to my mind, so that in a few years they 
 may be read and enjoyed by my family. I shall be punctual and try 
 to deal truthfully with all matters that I may refer to in these pages, 
 whether they be of national or personal interest, and I shall seek to 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 155 
 
 treat all subjects and conditions with sincere impartiality, regardless 
 of personal beliefs or opinions. 
 
 "August 23 Ate lunch and smoked a cigar and 
 "Sept. 1 The climate is fine and we had little rain, but the mount- 
 ain air " 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 O'NDAY morning brought with it a startling revelation. The 
 population at the hotel had become wonderfully increased. 
 Every room was full of life flea life. Where they came from 
 and how they arrived, we never paused to ask, although some 
 expressed the belief that they swam over the bay, for they were ex- 
 cellent sailors, considering how tirelessly they sailed through the air. 
 We had been told the previous night that there was not a SINGLE 
 flea in Frisco. This was eminently true they were all married and 
 had large families. 
 
 Following up our original discovery that the flea can thrive on 
 San Francisco air, we continued our scientific research and were 
 rewarded by learning that the flea is not a wild animal. It is very 
 tame and showed no inclination to avoid human society. In fact, Sir 
 Reel had a flock so well trained that they would eat out of his hand, 
 kiss him on the neck, whisper in his ear, and sit on his nose, without 
 command. We further learned that there was no peril in hunting 
 them, while their natural affection for human society attracts them 
 to you, if one has but a little patience. 
 
 They kept up a continuous buzzing strain which to us sounded 
 as "Welcome z z z Sir z z z Knights z z z welcome." While 
 they were so sociable that they crawled all over us, inside of our 
 clothes and out, we were nevertheless hunting them day and night. 
 We soon learned that hunting them with a gun was inadvisable, and 
 after much experimenting, discovered that the easiest way to lose 
 their company was to allow them to hold public meetings on your 
 face and then, in an outburst of sorrow, to drown them with your 
 tears. 
 
 However, with all their faults, Sir Otto is indebted to the fleas 
 of Frisco for the greatest physical culture exercise he ever enjoyed. 
 Otto had been ailing somewhat since entering the Yellowstone Park, 
 and really needed the exercise which was forced upon him. 
 
15fi A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 Sir Otto had been wearing a sweater which he brought from the 
 east, and on this particular morning had it thrown over a chair for 
 ventilation. The fleas appointed a board of inquiry, numbering about 
 250, to inspect the interior of the sweater, but carelessly neglected 
 to notify Otto of the fact. Without the slightest malice towards the 
 fleas he hurriedly donned the garment and was not conscious of the 
 bosom companions he had made until it was snugly fitted. Then the 
 terrible truth dawned upon him ! As the fleas, 250 strong, attempted 
 to bite their way out, they bit in the wrong direction. Otto tugged 
 violently at the sweater in a frantic effort to release the poor im- 
 prisoned fleas. The more he pulled and tugged, the tighter the 
 sweater, and the more excited both he and fleas became. During his 
 struggles he executed a new method of calisthenics that would have 
 been a profitable revelation to the greatest physical culture instructor 
 extant. Finally, with the brave assistance of several pilgrims, the 
 sweater was removed and the fleas released, but Otto bore the teeth 
 marks of the fleas in such great numbers that it was necessary to let 
 contracts for talcum powder by the pound. 
 
 The Conclave program for the day was one that predicted bound- 
 less entertainment. Among events scheduled were: Receiving the 
 officers of the Great Priory of England and Wales and the depend- 
 encies of the British crown; reception by Golden Gate Commandery 
 No. 16, in Golden Gate Hall, afternoon and evening; ladies' reception 
 at headquarters of California Commandery No. 1, in Mechanics' 
 Pavilion in the afternoon. 
 
 Monday, September 5, was a legal holiday in California, known 
 as Labor Day. The celebration consisted of a parade in the morn- 
 ing; reunion of labor organizations, exercises afternoon and evening, 
 celebrations of San Francisco Labor Council and fireworks at nignt. 
 
 The Grand Commandery of Pennsylvania and the Sir Knights 
 of Pennsylvania tendered a reception to all Knights Templar and 
 their ladies in the Marble and Maple rooms of the Palace Hotel ; ex- 
 hibition drill and band concert by Malta Commandery No. 21 Drill 
 Corps, Binghamton, N. Y., at night; reception in the Palace Hotel, 
 tinder the auspices of the ladies' committee ; open-air concert in Union 
 Square; reception by Oakland Commandery No. 11, at Native Sons' 
 Hall; general reception by California Commandery No. 1, and other 
 Commanderies, in Mechanics' Pavilion ; performance by Chinese actors 
 in Grand Opera House and numerous other events of equal interest. 
 
 The reception tendered the Earl of Euston (personal representa- 
 tive of King Edward) and the delegation representing the Grand Priory 
 of England and Wales, was most impressive. They were met by a 
 full Templar escort consisting of four troops mounted, two com- 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 1ST 
 
 panics on foot and a band of 40 pieces with mounted buglers. Troops 
 A and B of the mounted escort occupied the right of the line and 
 were followed by the band and two foot escorts, then the distinguished 
 visitors in carriages, with the two companies from California Com- 
 mandery bringing up in the rear as the guard of honor. 
 
 As the Earl emerged from the depot on the way to his carriage, 
 there was a fanfare from the buglers while the band struck up and 
 kept playing until all the visitors were seated in their carriages. 
 The escorts, both mounted and afoot, presented arms and remained 
 at present until the last carriage had passed the line of escort, after 
 which they swung into line and accompanied the distinguished guests 
 to the Palace Hotel. 
 
 Here they formed a double line at the main entrance on New 
 Montgomery street, while the foot escort formed a line reaching 
 across the street from the entrance. The band was stationed at the 
 corner of New Montgomery and Market streets, and, as the Earl 
 and his party alighted from their carriages, they passed through a 
 hollow square of presented swords to the music of the band, making 
 a most imposing and beautiful picture. 
 
 The distinguished visitors comprising the English delegation 
 were : The Right Honorable, the Earl of Euston, the Most Eminent 
 and Supreme Grand Master of the Great Priory of England and 
 Wales; Sir Charles F. Matier, Great Vice-Chancellor of the Great 
 Priory of England and Wales ; Sir Thomas Eraser, Sir A. J. Thomas, 
 Rev. C. E. L. Wright, Sir T. P. Dorman and Abraham Woodiwiss, 
 the delegation representing the English Great Cross Templars, and 
 the personal representatives of King Edward VII. of England, as well 
 as the delegation representing the Great Priory of Canada and the 
 British Crown dependencies. 
 
 Every state, territory, and section of the continent was represent- 
 ed at the Conclave by their Commanderies, and the number of foreign 
 representatives was exceptionally large. At this time the following 
 Commanderies had arrived : 
 
 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Grand Encampment, M. 
 E. Grand Master Henry Bates Stoddard. 
 
 ALABAMA Grand Commandery. Cyrene Commandery No. 10, 
 Birmingham, E. Sir John H. Robinson, Commander. 
 
 ARIZONA Grand Commandery. 
 
 ARKANSAS Grand Commandery, R. E. Sir T. H. Jones. 
 Arkansas Delegation, Little Rock. 
 
 CALIFORNIA Grand Commandery, R. E. Sir W. Frank Pierce, 
 Grand Commander. California Commandery No. 1, E. Sir Charles 
 Mortimer Plum, Commander. Sacramento Commandery No. 2, E. 
 
158 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 Sir Edward Adolph Weil, Commander. Pacific Commandery No. 3, 
 E. Sir Elisha Tolman Gould, Commander. El Dorado Commandery 
 No. 4, E. Sir Charles Albert Swisler, Commander. Oroville Com- 
 mandery No. 5, E. Sir Albert Eugene Boynton, Commander. Nevada 
 Commandery No. 6, E. Sir Thomas Ingram, Commander. Marys- 
 ville Commandery No. 7, E. Sir Oscar Leonidas Meek, Commander. 
 Stockton Commandery No. 8, E. Sir Charles Willis Norton, Com- 
 mander. Los Angeles Commandery No. 9, E. Sir John Amos Kings- 
 ley, Commander. San Jose Commandery No. 10, E. Sir William 
 Gay Alexander, Commander. Oakland Commandery No. 11, E. Sir 
 William Henry Craig, Commander. Chico Commandery No. 12, E. 
 Sir Eugene E. Canfield, Commander. Lassen Commandery No. 13, 
 E. Sir Harry DeForest Burroughs, Commander. Santa Rosa Com- 
 mandery No. 14, E. Sir Charles Clinton Belden, Commander. Golden 
 Gate Commandery No. 16, E. Sir Philip D. Code, Commander. Red 
 Bluff Commandery No. 17, E. Sir Elias Delevan Gardner, Com- 
 mander. Ventura Commandery No. 18, E. Sir Frederick William 
 Baker, Commander. Naval Commandery No. 19, E. Sir Alrik Ham- 
 mer, Commander. Mount Olivet Commandery No. 20, Petaluma, E. 
 Sir Dolphus B. Fairbanks, Commander. Woodland Commandery 
 No. 21, E. Sir John Reith, Jr., Commander. Watsonville Command- 
 ery No. 22, E. Sir William A. Trafton, Commander. Saint Bernard 
 Commandery No. 23, E. Sir Dwight Coleman Schlott, Commander. 
 Colusa Commandery No. 24, E. Sir William Henry Buster, Com- 
 mander. San Diego Commandery No. 25, E. Sir Charles Wylie 
 Buker, Commander. Visalia Commandery No. 26, E. Sir James H. 
 McKie, Commander. San Luis Obispo Commandery No. 27, E. Sir 
 Stephen Davis Ballou, Commander. Riverside Commandery No. 28, 
 E. Sir Samuel Adams White, Commander. Fresno Commandery 
 No. 29, E. Sir Edward Sharp Valentine, Commander. St. Omer Com- 
 mandery No. 30, E. Sir Clarence Crosby Knight, Commander. Pasa- 
 dena Commandery No. 31, E. Sir Robert Henry Cuthbert, Com- 
 mander. Mt. Shasta Commandery No. 32, E. Sir George Dexter 
 Butler, Commander. Ukiah Commandery No. 33, E. Sir Howard B. 
 Smith, Commander. Napa Commandery No. 34, E. Sir Daniel S. 
 Kyser, Commander. Eureka Commandery No. 35, E. Sir Albert 
 Charles Barker, Commander. Santa Ana Commandery No. 36, E. 
 Sir John Lewis Dryer, Commander. Southern California Command- 
 ery No. 37, E. Sir James Albert Dole, Commander. Vacaville Com- 
 mandery No. 38, E. Sir Robert Lincoln Reid, Commander. Bakers- 
 field Commandery No. 39, E. Sir John Lovell Carson, Commander. 
 Long Beach Commandery No. 40, E. Sir James Benjamin Heartwell, 
 Commander. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 159 
 
 COLORADO Grand Commandery, R. E., Sir William J. Fine, 
 Grand Commander. Denver-Frisco K. T. 1904 Club; Denver (com- 
 posed of members of various Colorado Commanderies) Sir Knight 
 Fred Walsen, President ; Sir Richard K. Le Bert, Secretary. Pueblo 
 Club, Pueblo. 
 
 CONNECTICUT Grand Commandery, E. Sir Eugene A. Hall, 
 proxy for Grand Commander. Washington Commandery No. 1, 
 Hartford, E. Sir W. G. Baxter, Commander. New Haven Com- 
 mandery No. 2, New Haven, E. Sir Frank Bishop, Commander. 
 Hamilton Commandery No. 5, Bridgeport, E. Sir Geo. M. Baldwin, 
 Commander. Holy Sepulchre Commandery No. 8, Pawtucket. New 
 Haven Commandery California Club, Sir Charles E. Rounds, Adju- 
 tant President. 
 
 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA Grand Commandery of District 
 of Columbia, R. E. Sir Andrew W. Kelley, Grand Commander. 
 Washington Club, Washington, D. C. 
 
 FLORIDA Grand Commandery of Florida, Right Eminent Sir 
 Otis L. Keene, Grand Commander. Florida Delegation, Jacksonville. 
 
 GEORGIA Grand Commandery. 
 
 ILLINOIS Grand Commandery. Apollo Commandery No. 1, 
 Chicago, E. Sir James Francis Rowins, Commander. Peoria Com- 
 mandery No. 3. Ottowa Commandery No. 10, Ottowa, E. Sir Henry 
 L. Arnold, Commander. Cairo Commandery No. 13, Cairo, E. Sir 
 Frank Spencer, Chairman. Urbana Commandery No. 16, E. Sir H. T. 
 Hubbard, Commander. Chicago Commandery No. 19, Chicago, E. 
 Sir William S. Peavey, Commander. St. Barnard Commandery No. 
 35, Chicago. Montjoie Commandery No. 53, Chicago, E. Sir William 
 H. Pool, Commander. Lincoln Park Commandery No. 64, Chicago, 
 E. Sir John A. Eck, Commander. 
 
 INDIANA Grand Commandery. Rapier Commandery No. 1, 
 Indianapolis. Greenfield Commandery No. 25, Greenfield. Frank- 
 fort Commandery No. 29, Frankfort, E. Sir C. A. Ford, Commander. 
 Kokomo Commandery No. 36, Kokomo. Washington Commandery 
 No. 33, Washington. Crawfordsville Commandery No. 39, Craw- 
 fordsville. Hammond Commandery No. 41, Hammond, E. Sir J. J. 
 Ruff, Commander. 
 
 IOWA Grand Commandery. Temple Commandery No. 4, Des 
 Moines, E. Sir Frank H. McArthur, Commander. 
 
 KANSAS Grand Commandery, R. E. Sir T. H. Jones, Grand 
 Commander. Oswego Commandery No. 7, Oswego. Kansas City 
 No. 10, Kansas City. Kansas Delegation, Kansas City, E. Sir B. G. 
 Brown in command. 
 
160 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 KENTUCKY Grand Commandery. Louisville Commandery 
 No. 1, Louisville. De Molay Commandery No. 12, Louisville. Marion 
 Commandery No. 24, Lebanon. 
 
 LOUISIANA Grand Commandery. 
 
 MAINE Grand Commandery. Portland Commandery No. 2, 
 Portland, E. Sir Woodman E. Eaton, Commander. 
 
 MARYLAND Grand Commandery. Maryland Delegation. 
 
 MASSACHUSETTS Grand Commandery of Massachusetts 
 and Rhode Island. Boston Commandery No. 2, Boston, E. Sir Rinaldo 
 B. Richardson, Commander. . Worcester Commandery No. 5, Wor- 
 cester. De Molay Commandery No. 7, Boston, E. Sir Oscar A. Shep- 
 herd, Commander. Sutton Commandery No. 16, New Bedford, P. C. 
 Jacob C. Dunham, in charge. Hugh de Payens Commandery No. 20, 
 Melrose, E. Sir Harry Stevens, Commander. St. Omer Command- 
 ery No. 21, Boston. Joseph Warren Commandery No. 26, Roxbury. 
 Trinity Commandery No. 32, Hudson, E. Sir Charles A. Bartlett, 
 Commander. Coeur de Lion Commandery No. 34, Boston, E. Sir 
 John H. Studley, Commander. Olivet Commandery No. 36, Lynn, 
 E. Sir Amos T. Chase, Commander. Cambridge Commandery No. 
 42, Cambridge, E. Sir R. Walter Hilliard, Commander. Massachu- 
 setts Delegation. Springfield Commandery No. , Springfield. 
 
 MICHIGAN Grand Commandery. Peninsular Commandery 
 No. 8, Kalamazoo, E. Sir James Freaser, Commander. 
 
 MINNESOTA Grand Commandery, R. E. Sir George W. Buck, 
 Grand Commander. Minnesota Delegation. 
 
 MISSISSIPPI Grand Commandery, R. E. Sir Frank Burkett, 
 Grand Commander. 
 
 MISSOURI Grand Commandery. Kansas City Commandery 
 No. 10, Kansas City. St. Aldemar Commandery No. 18, St. Louis. 
 Oriental Commandery No. 35, Kansas City. 
 
 MONTANA Grand Commandery. Montana Commandery No. 
 3, Butte. 
 
 NEBRASKA CJrand Commandery. Mount Calvary Com- 
 mandery No. 1, Omaha. 
 
 NEVADA Grand Commandery. De Witt Clinton Command- 
 ery No. 1, Virginia City. Nevada Commandery No. 6, Nevada City, 
 E. Sir Thomas Ingram, Commander. 
 
 NEW HAMPSHIRE Grand Commandery, R. E. Sir Thomas 
 M. Fletcher, Grand Commander. Trinity Commandery No. 1, Man- 
 chester, E. Sir Elmer D. Goodwin, Commander. 
 
 NEW JERSEY Grand Commandery. New Jersey Delegation. 
 
 NEW MEXICO Grand Commandery. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 161 
 
 NEW YORK Grand Commandery. Apollo Commandery No. 
 15, Troy. Malta Commandery No. 21, Binghamton, E. Sir Arthur 
 W. T. Black, Commander. Central City Commandery No. 25, Syra- 
 cuse. 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA Grand Commandery. 
 
 NORTH DAKOTA Grand Commandery. 
 
 OHIO Grand Commandery. Cincinnati Commandery No. 3, 
 Cincinnati, E. Sir A. S. Brown, Commander. Reed Commandery No. 
 6, Dayton. Oriental Commandery No. 12, Cleveland, E. Sir R. D. 
 Morgan, Commander. Hansellman Commandery No. 16, Cincinnati, 
 
 E. Sir William J. Graf, Commander. Garfield Commandery No. 28, 
 Washington Court House. Palestine Commandery No. 33, Spring- 
 field, E. Sir John B. McGrew, Commander. Marietta Commandery 
 No. 50, Marietta. 
 
 OREGON Grand Commandery. Oregon Commandery No. 1, 
 Portland, E. Sir Henry Roe, Commander. Malta Commandery No. 4, 
 Ashland. Pendleton Commandery No. 7, Pendleton. Melita Com- 
 mandery No. 8, Grants Pass, E. Sir W. H. Hampton, Commander. 
 
 PENNSYLVANIA Grand Commandery. Pittsburgh Com- 
 mandery No. 1, Pittsburgh, E. Sir Edward Lewis, Commander. Alle- 
 gheny Commandery No. 35, Allegheny, E. Sir Lawrence Kalmeyer, 
 Commander. Tancred Commandery No. 48, Pittsburgh, E. Sir Win- 
 field S. Bell, Commander. De Molay Commandery No. 9, Reading. 
 Pilgrim Commandery No. 11, Harrisburg, E. Sir Lewis Beitler, Com- 
 mander. Towanda Commandery No. 16, Towanda, E. Sir Ed. Carter, 
 Jr., Commander. Coeur de Lion Commandery No. 17, Scranton. Al- 
 len Commandery No. 20, Allentown, E. Sir W. H. Rontzheimer, Com- 
 mander. Baldwin Commandery No. 22, Philadelphia, E. Sir Albert 
 
 F. Young, Commander. Kodosh Commandery No. 29, Philadelphia, 
 E. Sir George W. Loudenslager, Commander. Mary Commandery 
 No. 36, Philadelphia, E. Sir Davis W. Stewart, Commander. Reading 
 Commandery No. 42, Reading, E. Sir John M. Goas, Commander. 
 Corinthian Chasseur Commandery No. 53, Philadelphia, Sir Knight 
 John C. Taylor, Generalissimo. Melita Commandery No. 68, Scranton. 
 Mount Vernon Commandery No. 73, Hazelton, E. Sir William Glover, 
 Jr., Commander. Golden Gate Club, E. Sir J. H. Murray in charge. 
 Reading Club. 
 
 RHODE ISLAND Grand Commandery of Massachusetts and 
 Rhode Island. See Massachusetts. St. Johns Commandery No. 1, 
 Providence. Holy Sepulchre Commandery No. 8, Pawtucket, E. Sir 
 William W. Curtis, Commander. Calvary Commandery No. 13, 
 Providence, E. Sir Chas. C. Darling, Commander. 
 (H) 
 
162 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA South Carolina Commandery No. 1, 
 Charleston, E. Sir James R. Johnson, Acting Commander. 
 
 SOUTH DAKOTA Grand Commandery. 
 
 TENNESSEE Grand Commandery, R. E. Sir A. N. Sloan, 
 Grand Commander. 
 
 TEXAS Grand Commandery. Texas Delegation, San Antonio. 
 
 UTAH Utah Commandery No. 1, Salt Lake City. El Monte 
 Commandery No. 2, Ogden, E. Sir Jacob H. Epperson, Commander. 
 
 VERMONT Grand Commandery. Vermont Frisco Club, White 
 River Junction. 
 
 WEST VIRGINIA Grand Commandery, R. E. Sir W. M. Van 
 Winkle, Commander. 
 
 WASHINGTON Grand Commandery. Seattle Delegation, 
 Seattle. Whatcom Delegation, Whatcom. 
 
 WISCONSIN Grand Commandery. Ivanhoe Commandery No. 
 24, Milwaukee, E. Sir Sam W. French, Commander. 
 
 WYOMING Grand Commandery. 
 
 ENGLA-ND AND WALES Great Priory, The Right Honor- 
 able, The Earl of Euston, G. C. T., 33 degree Most Eminent and Su- 
 preme Grand Master, and official staff. 
 
 CANADA Great Priory. Victoria Delegation, Victoria, B. C. 
 Vancouver Delegation, Vancouver, B. C. 
 
 Aside from the above mentioned, may other Commanderies were 
 represented. They came as delegations, which represented a number 
 of Commanderies in the same home district. 
 
 Many of our pilgrims spent the morning in continuing their sight- 
 seeing expeditions. The Presidio was a point that attracted many. 
 It is the headquarters of the Department of California, and covers a 
 stretch of 1,500 acres overlooking San Francisco Bay. Battalion 
 drills of soldiery take place every day and the spot is one of unusual 
 beauty and interest. 
 
 Walter and Ivor, though still enjoying the luxury of bachelor- 
 hood, are noted for their appreciation of all that is sweet in this life, 
 and with this reputation established, we were not surprised to find 
 them in charge of a confectionery store opposite the hotel. The store 
 could be viewed both within and without from the hotel windows, 
 and this soon revealed to us that two unprotected young women were 
 compelled to toil laboriously behind the counters, serving confections 
 to the demands of the public. Walter and Ivor, gallant to a fault, 
 could not long suffer to see these two young women overwork them- 
 selves, so they rushed to their assistance. Some unsympathetic per- 
 sons have said that they were attracted by sweets not embodied in the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 163 
 
 candies, but be that as it may, they proved themselves silent heroes 
 to the cause of honest working girls, and when the true history of 
 San Francisco is again written, it will remain incomplete unless it 
 gives proper space and position to the noble efforts of these two 
 sympathetic gentlemen behind the counters of that confectionery 
 store. 
 
 The Navy Department ordered all Government ships of the 
 Pacific squadron stationed in the harbor of San Francisco to remain 
 there during Conclave week for the benefit of the visiting Sir Knights 
 and their families. The United States flagship New York was anchor- 
 ed off the foot of Clay street; her boats landing at Clay street wharf. 
 Both the United States steamship Pennington and the United States 
 steamship Marblehead were anchored in the stream opposite Mission 
 street wharf. The torpedo boats were ordered from Benicia Bay to 
 the Bay of San Francisco, to remain there during Conclave week. 
 These boats were open for inspection to visitors. During the morn- 
 ing we had been invited to visit the United States Flagship New 
 York, which was lying in the bay. Several Sir Knights and their 
 ladies took advantage of the kind offer, and steaming out into the bay, 
 boarded the famous ship. The natty sailors, the wonderful mechan- 
 isms of warfare, the powerful guns which Uncle Sam knows so well 
 how to use, and the many other interesting things aboard the monster 
 fighting machine, were startling and most interesting revelations. 
 
 The afternoon was one of ceaseless activity. Sir Knights and 
 their ladies were coming and going in endless procession from and to 
 every point of the compass. San Francisco is essentially a tourist's 
 Mecca. A pleasure loving people possessed the city, and being the 
 gateway to the Orient, there is probably no other city in America 
 whose streets are filled with such a mixture of races and nationalities. 
 Then, because of its adjacent military posts and naval rendezvous, 
 glittering uniforms of foreign officials and the simpler dress of Amer- 
 ican soldiers and sailors were everywhere apparent. These uniforms 
 and international and Oriental costumes, aided by the brilliant Knight 
 Templar regalia and the splendid decorations, gave a brilliancy to the 
 street scenes that was beyond description. 
 
 With San Francisco as a starting point, days and weeks could be 
 spent in pleasant excursions. A sail on the bay or a visit to Oakland, 
 the favorite home city, which has a population of 95,000. The city 
 is named from the numerous live-oaks growing in its gardens and 
 along the streets. It has extensive manufactures and a magnificent 
 view over the expansive bay and city of San Francisco and the dis- 
 tant Golden Gate. In the Oakland suburbs is Berkeley, and against 
 the shoulder of the hills which mark its boundary, may be seen the 
 
buildings of the great State University, the "Athens" of the Pacific; 
 the attractive grounds cover 250 acres and the endowment exceeds 
 $8,000,000. Across San Antonio estuary, (which the work of the 
 Federal Government has converted into Oakland Harbor) the city of 
 Alameda peeps from its clustered oaks, and through the beautiful 
 Piedmont hills to Oakland are the sister cities of San Leandro and 
 Haywards. An ascent up Mt. Tamalpais via the "crookedest rail- 
 road in the world" which parallels itself five times within 300 feet, 
 is a trip of scenic wealth. 
 
 Those who visited Fort Mason, the headquarters of Major Gen- 
 eral Arthur McArthur, found handsome grounds and an excellent 
 view of the bay. Fisherman's Wharf, located at the top of an im- 
 mense sea-wall, disclosed hundreds of Italian fishermen mooring 
 their picturesque lateen-sailed boats. The whole waterfront offered 
 romantically interesting sights. Schooners discharging pine from 
 Puget Sound ; steamers unloading cargos from Liverpool, from 
 Panama, from South America, from Australia, and others from China 
 and Japan, seemed to have secrets to disclose and tales of interest to 
 relate. White transports tell of the Phillipines, while steamers just 
 in from the frigid shores of Alaska also find place in this international 
 navy. 
 
 The spirit of roving and adventure pervades the scene at the 
 waterfront. Here one may observe the big four-masters, laden with 
 wheat, brought around Cape Horn. A rakish brig unloads a cargo 
 of copra and sandalwood, which tells of the scented groves of south 
 Pacific islands. Over yonder are big bunkers, with sooty workmen 
 and busy engines, straining at coal buckets. Japanese, Chinese and 
 Koreans mingle with the throng. 
 
 When evening comes on, the deep sea-chants rise above the city's 
 roar as anchors are lifted. One then keenly feels the call of the sea. 
 The genius of Stevenson has woven a halo of romance over these 
 semi-tropical seas that woos the traveler with well-nigh irresistible 
 charm. As you look westward out of the nation's front door from 
 the Cliff House headland height, it would be strange, indeed, if you 
 were not seized with a longing to set sail. 
 
 Where will you go? 
 
 To Hawaii? Magical isles, wreathed in flowers and laved by 
 flashing summer seas ; land of banana plantations, cane and rice fields ; 
 land of roaring volcanoes and verdant plains. 
 
 To Samoa? Coral shores under the stars and stripes; happy 
 natives, cocoanut palms and delicious tropical fruit, transparent seas 
 and beautiful shells. 
 
 To Tahiti? Riotous vegetation, the supple bamboo, broad-leafed 
 
SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 165 
 
 banana and lance-leafed mango ; an out-of-doors country, where houses 
 are used only to sleep in. 
 
 To New Zealand? Newest England, as it has been fittingly 
 called; half around the world, but nearer than many have 
 thought ; the famous west coast sounds, rivaling the fiords of Norway. 
 
 To Australia? A partly explored continent of vast and varied 
 resources ; wonderful cities, strange races, and strange flora and fauna, 
 kangaroos and paroquets, cockatoos and pouched bears. 
 
 Which one, or all of them? 
 
 The bay of San Francisco is almost completely encircled by land. 
 The Golden Gate is the tide-way, a narrow passage between the ex- 
 tremities of two peninsulas, upon the point of the southernmost of 
 which the city stands. 
 
 Few bays are more picturesque, none better suited to the purpose 
 of commerce. Crossing on the fine Santa Fe ferry boat and leaving 
 the dock at Point Richmond, San Francisco Bay proper extends far 
 beyond the limits of vision southward. To the north are other por- 
 tions of the same bay, though carrying distinctive names. At the 
 head of San Pablo Bay is Mare Island, with "Uncle Sam's" big navy 
 yards. Mount Diablo seems to rise close upon the Suisun shore. 
 
 Here, too, the Franciscan mission-builders were first upon the 
 field, and the present name is a curtailment of Mission de los Dolores 
 de Nuestro Padre San Francisco de Asis, an appellation commemora- 
 tive of the sorrows of the originator of the order. The Mission 
 Dolores, founded in 1776, is still preserved with its little campo santo 
 of the dead, a poor, unsightly, strangled thing, structurally unimpos- 
 ing and wholly wanting in the poetic atmosphere of semi-solitude 
 that envelops the missions of Southern California. A modern cathe- 
 dral overshadows it, and shops and dwellings jostle it. So nearly, in 
 forty years, has all trace of the preceding three-quarters of a century 
 been obliterated. Changed from a Spanish to a Mexican province early 
 in the century, then promptly stripped of the treasures that had been 
 accumulated by monkish administration, and subsequently ceded to 
 the United States, California had on the whole a dreamy, quiet life 
 until that famous nugget was found in 1848. Then followed the era 
 of the Argonauts, seekers of the golden fleece, who flocked by the 
 thousands from eastern towns and cities by way of the plains, the 
 Isthmus and the Cape, to dig in the gravel-beds ; lawless adventurers 
 in their train ; while the peculiar character of the population made it 
 then so lawless, that twice the better element had to take summary 
 control of the municipal government by "Vigilance Committees," who 
 did not hesitate to execute promptly notorious criminals. San Fran- 
 cisco practically dates from that period. Its story is a wild one, a 
 
166 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 working-out of order and stable commercial prosperity through 
 chapters that treat of feverish gold-crazy mobs, of rapine grappled 
 by the vigilance committee, of insurrection crushed by military force. 
 And in this prosperity, oddly enough, the production of gold has been 
 superseded in importance by other resources ; for although California 
 annually yields more precious metal than any other state, the yearly 
 value of its marketed cattle, wool, cereals, roots, fruits, sugar and 
 wines, is twice as great, and forms the real commercial basis of the 
 great city of the Pacific coast. 
 
 As if it were fearful of being hid, it is set upon not one, but a 
 score of hills, of which a group extends westward from the bay, vary- 
 ing in height from less than 200 to over 900 feet. Conspicuous among 
 them are the Telegraph Hill, Nob Hill, Park Peak, the Mission Peaks 
 and others overlooking land and sea. As you near the city by way 
 of Point Richmond, you will be dull, indeed, if your pulses are not 
 stirred in anticipation of viewing one of the really great cities of the 
 world. 
 
 When the first burst of delight at the wondrous panorama had 
 settled into a calmer satisfaction, we began to pick out and inquire 
 concerning the various points of interest. Off to the right, which is 
 here the west, is a lofty red island, and beyond, on the shore, a grim 
 cluster of red and gray buildings. The cluster of foreboding buildings 
 is the State Prison on Point San Quentin. 
 
 Angel Island, on the south of Raccoon Straits, is like all the 
 islands of the bay, government property. Just around the first head- 
 land is Hospital Cove, and there is located the United States Quaran- 
 tine Station. The island itself is one-and-a-half miles long, its crest 
 rises 760 feet from the bay, and its area is about 600 acres. 
 
 Looking back towards the bay shore on the left, the island be- 
 tween Point Richmond and the mainland carries the pastoral title of 
 Sheep Island. The Government puts it to no use. On the shore 
 beyond are the powder works, where dynamite and other high ex- 
 plosives are manufactured. 
 
 Goat Island is one of the most conspicuous islands in the harbor. 
 On this the Government has a torpedo supply station for the war- 
 ships, a depot for the buoys and supplies of the lighthouse tenders, 
 and a new Naval Training School, where American lads are to be 
 taught how to defend the country's honor upon the sea. 
 
 There is a whiff of fresh salt breeze as the boat passes beyond the 
 southerly point of Angel Island, and we turned to the right again to 
 view the Golden Gate. 
 
 Here, indeed, is fascinating beauty. The broad bay narrows to 
 the width of a mile the Golden Gate proper and through this nar- 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 167 
 
 row passage ebb and flow the mighty tides. Some resistless forces 
 of old earth's agony seem to have rent the big hills to make this way 
 for commerce. Its guardian heights rise 2,000 feet on the left hand, 
 stretching up to the peaks of Tumulpais to the northward. On the 
 right hand the heights are lower, but still lofty. The slopes are bare 
 and sandy. From their bluffs may be seen the guns of a heavy 
 battery of 12-inch rifles 473 feet above the sea level the highest 
 heavy gun battery in tine world. 
 
 Inside the Gate are attractions for nearer view. In mid-channel 
 the fortified island of Alcatraz rears itself 140 feet above low water. 
 Here is the military prison and an artillery post, with a torpedo 
 station and a light that can be seen for 19 miles out at sea. These 
 attributes, together with the romantic prison and a melancholy fog 
 bell, give the island a peculiar grim fascination to the visitor. 
 
 One of the pretty and appropriate sentiments of the afternoon 
 was made manifest when the Sir Knights of De Molay Commandery 
 No. 7, of Boston, went in a body to the monument erected in Golden 
 Gate Park to the memory of the late Rev. Thomas Starr King. 
 Under direction of their Eminent Commander they participated in an 
 imposing ceremony and placed a wreath of "victory palms" at the 
 base of the monument, while fitting tributes were paid. The Rev. Mr. 
 King had formerly been a leader and public man in Boston. 
 
 San Francisco and California Commanderies, as hosts, spent the 
 day in attending to social duties and "open house" prevailed every- 
 where. Golden Gate Commandery No. 16 and California Command- 
 ery No. 1 were lavish entertainers, while all the Commanderies lo- 
 cated in Mechanic's Pavilion held a general reception. Aside from 
 this, receptions were held at the various hotel headquarters after- 
 noon and evening. 
 
 At the Palace Hotel a reception was held afternoon and evening 
 by the ladies of the general reception committee. A Hawaiian band 
 discoursed native airs, while talented little Chinese girls sang during 
 the serving of refreshments. 
 
 With the throngs coursing the streets in gala attire under the 
 blaze of the many-colored electrical decorations, the night was a 
 memorable one. We visited in turn the various reception head- 
 quarters, drills, band concerts and other diversions. The city was 
 in possession of a merry and loving gathering that numbered thous- 
 ands, and while the great majority were strangers to one another, 
 each sought to make the other more content and happier. The glitter- 
 ing uniforms the color and brilliancy of the street scenes together 
 with the music of laughter and good cheer that everywhere found 
 expression, made life both appear and feel, anew. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 169 
 
 pendicular rows ; apothecaries expounding the medicinal virtues of 
 toad and snake ; gold workers making bracelets of the precious metal 
 to be welded about the arm of him who dares not trust his hoard to 
 another's keep ; restaurateurs serving really palatable conserves, with 
 pots of delectable tea; shop-keepers vending strange foreign fruits 
 and dubious edibles plucked from the depths of nightmare; mer- 
 chants displaying infinitude of curious trinkets and elaborate costly 
 wares ; worshipers and readers of the book of fate in rich temples, 
 niched with uncouth deities ; conventional actors playing interminable 
 histrionics to respectful and appreciative auditors ; gamblers stoically 
 venturing desperate games of chance with cards and dominoes ; opium 
 smokers stretched upon their bunks in a hot atmosphere heavy with 
 sickening fumes; unutterable vices no whit above the level of deep 
 damnation such is the Chinatown one brings away in lasting mem- 
 ory after three hours of peering, entering, ascending, descending, 
 crossing and delving. 
 
 A very orderly and quiet community, withal, for the Mongolian 
 is not commonly an obstreperous individual, and his vices are not 
 of the kind that inflame to deeds of violence. He knows no more 
 convivial bowl than a cup of tea. 
 
 The joss-houses, or temples, are hung with ponderous gilded 
 carvings, with costly draperies and rich machinery of worship. The 
 deities are fearful conceptions, ferocious of countenance, bristling 
 with hair, and decked with tinseled robes. A tiny vestal-flame burns 
 dimly in a corner, and near it stands a huge gong. An attendant 
 strikes this gong vociferously to arouse the god, and then prostrates 
 himself before the altar, making three salaams. A couple of short 
 billets, half-round, are then tossed into the air to bode good or ill 
 luck to you according as they fall upon the one or the other side. A 
 good augury having been secured by dint of persistent tossing, a 
 quiverful of joss-sticks is next taken in hand and dexterously shaken 
 until three have fallen to the floor. The sticks are numbered and 
 correspond to paragraphs in a fate book that is next resorted to, and 
 you are ultimately informed that you will live for forty years to come, 
 that you will marry within two years, and, if your sex and air seem 
 to countenance such a venture, that you will shortly make enormous 
 winnings at poker. 
 
 With all the novelty that Chinatown offers to the uninitiated, 
 none receive the attention and patronage as is bestowed upon the 
 Chinese play. For acts that are mysterious and plays that are pecu- 
 liar, crude, boisterous and positively insane to the Occidental eye and 
 ear, the Celestial performance "takes the palm." The play, whether 
 comedy or drama, varies in length from six to eight hours to one 
 
170 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 continuous performance that holds the stage for three or more months. 
 Since women are excluded from the stage, male actors impersonate 
 feminine roles. Make-up is of chief import; acting is secondary. 
 Stage property and scenery as Americans know them are foreign to 
 the Chinese stage. A chair is made to represent anything from a 
 castle or fortress to a bridge or horse, according to signs which are 
 displayed now and again, and which assist the spectator in encour- 
 aging his imagination in giving other form to the chair. The musi- 
 cians (and it is the greatest charity to call them such) are seated 
 upon the stage among the actors, and so are all distinguished visitors. 
 
 The stage manager and his assistants now and then erect a small 
 background suggestive of environment, and the province of the 
 orchestra is to accentuate emotion in which they attain no small 
 degree of success. It is highly conventionalized drama, in which any 
 kind of incongruity may elbow the players provided it does not con- 
 fuse the mind by actually intervening between them and the audience. 
 The plays are largely historical, or at least legendary. There are 
 stars whose celebrity packs the house to the limit of standing-room, 
 and there are the same strained silent attention and quick rippling 
 response to witty passages that mark our own play-houses ; but such 
 demonstrative applause as the clapping of hands and the stamping of 
 feet is unknown. The Chinese theatre-goer would as soon think of 
 so testifying enjoyment of a good book in the quiet of his home. 
 
 Entering the Grand Opera House (where the Chinese perform- 
 ance was given during the Conclave week) we found ourselves a 
 portion of an audience that tested the seating capacity as well as the 
 standing-room of the house. The audience was a representative one, 
 which would have done justice to any grand opera performance. 
 
 Scanning the programs which were passed through the audience 
 by Chinese boys, we found a synopsis of the trouble in store, in both 
 Chinese and English ; we also learned that the performance was 
 divided into two parts. The first was to be a portrayal of vicissitudes 
 during the reign of Yan Tsung 1022-1046 A. D. It appeared from 
 the program that a wealthy Chinaman had two wives, and that mali- 
 cious reports had been spread concerning a son and daughter of each. 
 This led to a war of clans that threatened the empire, but virtue and 
 truth finally triumphed. From the performance it seemed that all 
 we witnessed was the war of the clans. 
 
 The second part, according to the program, was the story of 
 seven angels, who, descending from heaven became seven beautiful 
 young women, the youngest of which was the most beautiful. She 
 had a host of suitors, but was eventually won by a poor youth who had 
 nothing to offer but a good name. Owing to the fact that women 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 171 
 
 were not permitted to appear upon the stage, and that the seven 
 "beautiful angels" were portrayed by as many coolies, there was much 
 speculation among the audience as to who the irresistibly handsome 
 younger one was. As a matter of fact no one knew when the first 
 part ended or the second began. 
 
 We sat in our seats three whole hours and never understood 
 any thing but the lightning and thunder which was sometimes re- 
 versed by the property man turning the thunder loose first. The din 
 of banging, slamming and clashing of tin pans, wash boilers, cymbals, 
 hammering of gongs and monotonous squealing of stringed weapons, 
 and other instruments of torture by the orchestra (which was com- 
 placently smoking while seated on soap boxes upon the stage) was 
 indescribable. Two of the leading actors, standing behind chairs 
 (which might have represented warships or fruit stands for ought we 
 knew) faced each other with wild and violent gesticulations and emit- 
 ted piercing yells that were audible over the bombardment of the 
 orchestra. 
 
 Occasionally Sir Flechsig would applaud the performers vigor- 
 ously, and we were at a loss to know for what reason, as he was not 
 suspected of being posted on Chinese drama or to have a speaking 
 acquaintanceship with the language. It developed later, however, 
 that he had an acquaintance who is a shorthand writer in an Alle- 
 gheny Chinese laundry, who had given him many written orders for 
 clean linen. From this familiarity he felt that he could interpret one 
 of the signs on the stage to read "to be done next Friday." As this 
 was Monday night he had reason for hope in the sign. 
 
 The antics of the performers knew no description." Those slain 
 in full view of the audience found an almost immediate resurrection, 
 and trotted off the stage without exciting the least commotion. The 
 costumes were a riot of color worked into such combinations and 
 forms as were beyond the wildest imaginations of the most insane. 
 No two performers were garbed alike. There was no freak in dress 
 too crazy to be indulged in ; no absurdity too absurd to be tolerated ; 
 no frenzy in diabolism too fantastic to be attempted. It was wild 
 masquerade of inconceivable costumes that even a tailor with delir- 
 ium tremens and seven devils could not pattern. The headgear was 
 equally as outlandish. Some of the hats were shaped like the Eiffel 
 tower with as many stories, and a few more balconies and trimmings. 
 Others were magnificent in their simplicity being nothing more than 
 stove-pipe-shaped exaggerations in many colors and embellished with 
 tassels and Chinese embroidery. 
 
 The property man was the undisputed monarch of the perform- 
 ance. He sat among the actors and orchestra upon the stage, with 
 
172 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 an air of authority that knew no denial. Occasionally, when he felt 
 that it was time to change the scenery, he would unceremoniously 
 order the actor essaying the role of king to abdicate his soap-box 
 throne, and readjusting the paraphernalia to suit himself, lighted a 
 cigarette and with a saucy air and commanding wave of his hand 
 ordered the performance to continue. There being no curtain used, 
 the scenic changes lent additional interest. 
 
 All emotions and passions were depicted and expressed in music 
 (?), while the lines of the actors were read in sing-song accord to 
 the noise made almost continuously by the orchestra. To be compelled 
 to endure it in silence made it more severe. Seated about were ladies 
 and gentlemen unknown to us, and this necessitated repression ; yet 
 at times the pain was so difficult to bear that Sir Oscar could scarcely 
 restrain his tears. As the howling, wailing and shrieking of the 
 performers, and the raging, bombarding and explosions of the orches- 
 tra rose higher and higher, wilder and wilder, and fiercer and fiercer, 
 Sir Oscar could have cried, had he been alone. 
 
 The foot-lights went out several times for refreshments and on 
 the whole the performance was a grand success. The first time the 
 lights adjourned, an usher appeared on the stage with a kerosene 
 lamp, but the audience with one voice laughed him out into the star- 
 less night. We shall never forget how proud and buoyant he looked 
 as he sailed in with that kerosene lamp and soiled chimney, and how 
 hurt and grieved he seemed when he took it and groped his way out, 
 while the house trembled with merriment. 
 
 The actors are the slaves, the chattels of the manager or pro- 
 prietor ; they live in the basement beneath the stage and come to the 
 street rarely, and then only by stealth. Their one living room under 
 the stage suffices for all purposes. Here they cook, eat after midnight, 
 and sleep all day. This of course refers only to the Chinese Theatre 
 where the performances are customarily given. It is said the actors 
 live on the coarsest food and represent the lowest and most despised 
 class or casts of China. 
 
 It was with a degree of the greatest appreciation that we again 
 breathed the out-door air, after the performance had run its three 
 hour course. The beautifully illuminated and decorated streets af- 
 forded a marked contrast. The thoroughfares, hotels, headquarters 
 and casinos were thronged with fashionably attired men and women, 
 and the holiday spirit prevailed uninterrupted. Slowly wending our 
 way to the hotel, we reluctantly retired to our rooms to dream a 
 Chinese nightmare! 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 173 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 LJESDAY the day of the parade had arrived. Every Sir 
 Knight was up and about early in the day. Uniforms were given 
 a final brush, belts adjusted, and all other duties essential to good 
 appearance were performed. 
 
 The day was oppressively hot ; this was forecasted in the early hours. 
 Sir Seiling, who had become overheated while polishing a belt buckle, 
 called the Jap bell boy and ordered some ice. The boy disappeared and 
 returning shortly with an old newspaper, handed it to Sir Seiling with 
 the information that he could get a supply "down at the grocery." Sir 
 Seiling refused to act upon the suggestion, fearing that carrying dripping 
 ice through the streets of San Francisco in dress Templar uniform would 
 establish a tiresome summer fashion. 
 
 What threatened to appear as a "before and after taking" advertise- 
 ment in the ranks of the Allegheny paraders, was narrowly averted while 
 our delegation was dressing for parade. In some manner Sir "Bobbie" 
 received Sir Oscar's trousers and the latter secured Sir "Bobbie's," and 
 if it were not for the fact that Sir Oscar tried his on first, the fatal error 
 might not have been discovered until too late, for "Bobbie" certainly 
 had no trouble falling into Oscar's garment, which was considerably 
 wider than his own. 
 
 The program for the day teemed with interesting events. Following 
 the parade of the morning, the Triennial Session of the Grand Encamp- 
 ment was scheduled to open in Golden Gate Hall in the afternoon, while 
 a reception was to be given in Native Sons' Hall by Oakland Command- 
 ery, No. 11. One of the stellar events which the evening had in store 
 was a reception by Pittsburgh Commandery, No. I, to Sir Knights and 
 ladies of San Francisco and visiting fraters and their ladies at the Com- 
 mandery headquarters in the Palace Hotel, from 8 to 12 o'clock. Other 
 prominent events of the evening were : Reception to Grand Master at 
 Palace Hotel. Promenade concert in the nave of the Ferry building, 8 
 until 12. Chinese play at the Grand Opera House, 8:15 to 10:15 o'clock. 
 Reception by Sacramento Commandery No. 2 at Pioneer Hall. Recep- 
 tion by San Jose Commandery No. 10 at Mechanics' Pavilion. Recep- 
 tion by Oakland Commandery No. n at Native Sons' Hall. Reception 
 by Golden Gate Commandery No. 16 at Golden Gate Hall. Exhibition 
 drill and band concert by Malta Commandery Drill Corps, Binghamton, 
 
174 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 N. Y., in front of the Palace Hotel. Open air concert in Union Square, 
 from 8 until n p. m. 
 
 We knew the day would be without rain and that the sun would 
 shine forth in all its radiance, but we had not anticipated 102 degrees 
 under which to make a march of several miles, and execute military 
 maneuvers on the public highways. 
 
 The parade started 10:15 o'clock in the morning and continued its 
 march until i :2O o'clock in the afternoon, covering a distance estimated 
 from four and one-half to seven miles. It moved like one piece of won- 
 derful mechanism, and what a gorgeous pageant it was. The whole 
 affair was marvelously planned and executed, and the great army of 
 mounted and marching Sir Knights, in number, appearance and pre- 
 cision, presented an imposing array. 
 
 The mighty column, said to have been the most notable parade ever 
 seen in San Francisco, was led in its march by Governor Pardee of Cali- 
 fornia, and Mayor Schmitz of San Francisco. E. Sir Charles L. Field, 
 Grand Captain-General of California, was in full command, assisted by 
 an able staff, headed by E. Sir George D. Clark. Behind them rode a 
 squad of police, Sir George W. Wittman, Chief of Police, commanding, 
 followed by a corps of mounted buglers. 
 
 FIRST GRAND DIVISION. 
 
 R. E. Sir Frank William Sumner, Past Grand Commander of Cali- 
 fornia, Chief of Division ; E. Sir Jessee B. Fuller, Chief of Staff. Cali- 
 fornia Commandery No. I (mounted), E. Sir Charles M. Plum, Com- 
 mander, as Special Escort to the Grand Master. Officers and members 
 of the Grand Encampment and visitors from other Grand Jurisdictions, 
 under command of V. E. Sir W. B. Melish, Grand Captain-General. 
 
 California Commandery No. I, led the First Grand Division as escort 
 to the entire parade. These 350 Knights, attired in their handsome 
 velvet costumes embroidered in white, and mounted upon sleek-coated 
 steeds of black, with a military band dressed in blue, bringing up in the 
 rear, formed a beautiful picture and received just and enthusiastic 
 applause all along the line of march. 
 
 Next came the California Bugle and Drum Corps leading, the first 
 carriage containing: Most Eminent Sir Henry Bates Stoddard, Grand 
 Master of the Grand Encampment of Knights Templar of the United 
 States of America ; Most Eminent the Earl of Euston, Grand Master of 
 the Great Priory of England and Wales. 
 
 Second carriage: R. E. Sir George Mayhew Moulton, Deputy 
 Grand Master of the Grand Encampment; V. E. C. Fitzgerald Matter, 
 G. C. T., Great Vice-Chancellor of the Great Priory. 
 
 Other officers of the Grand Encampment in carriages. 
 
 These carriages were followed by Golden Gate Commandery No. 16, 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 175 
 
 E. Sir P. D. Code, Commander, resplendent in full-dress uniform, act- 
 ing as Special Escort to the Grand Encampment. 
 
 Following Golden Gate Commandery came a line of carriages con- 
 taining members of the Grand Encampment, visitors from other Grand 
 Jurisdictions and officers and past officers of State Commanderies. 
 
 Terminating the First Grand Division came a brown cub bear 
 chained to a pole in the center of a float and shambling around in playing 
 the part of mascot for his Commandery. The float was decorated with 
 the black and white of the Templar, and the national colors. As a finale 
 to the First Division came ambulance wagons ready to relieve the injured 
 at a moment's notice. 
 
 SECOND GRAND DIVISION. 
 
 R. E. Sir Freeman C. Hersey, Grand Commander of Massachusetts 
 and Rhode Island, Chief of Division; Sir Frederick E. Pierce, Chief of 
 Staff. The Grand Commandery of Massachusetts and Rhode Island and 
 Subordinate Commanderies. 
 
 THIRD GRAND DIVISION. 
 
 R. E. Sir Harrison Dingman, Past Grand Commander of District 
 of Columbia, Chief of Division ; R. E. Sir Charles Clark, Chief of Staff. 
 The following Grand Commanderies and their Subordinate Commander- 
 ies : New York, Virginia, Vermont, New Hampshire, Connecticut. The 
 banners of this division were exceptionally beautiful, while a large rep- 
 resentation of Sir Knights and Commanderies were shown. 
 
 FOURTH GRAND DIVISION. 
 
 R. E. Sir Thomas Kite, Grand Commander of Ohio, Chief of Divi- 
 sion; E. Sir John Nelson Bell, Chief of Staff. The following Grand 
 Commanderies and their Subordinate Commanderies, Ohio, Kentucky, 
 Maine. Subordinate Commanderies under the Grand Encampment of 
 the United States. The Louisville, Ky., band reaped a large share of 
 applause by the rendition of Southern airs, while the Louisville Drill 
 Corps executed some fine maneuvers. Maine was well represented by 
 Portland Commandery, while Ohio contributed much to the success of 
 the parade. Ambulances followed the Buckeye Sir Knights and then 
 came the flags and magnificent banners of the 
 
 FIFTH GRAND DIVISION. 
 
 This section was made up entirely of Sir Knights from the Keystone 
 State, and with the exception of the California representation, Pennsyl- 
 vania had by far the greatest number of Sir Knights in line. This fact 
 was heartily appreciated over the full route of the parade and applause 
 was most liberally showered upon this division. 
 
 "Look at Allegheny!" "Look at Allegheny!" was the cry along the 
 line of march as our pilgrims, forty-four in number, executed some of 
 their well-known manuevers. It is not egotism to say that the "boys" 
 
176 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 kept bravely at their tasks under the sweltering sun,and that as march- 
 ers, and for military bearing they had few equals in the monster parade. 
 Pittsburgh Commandery No. I, Tancred Commandery No. 48, and other 
 commanderies, all notable for drill work, included Washington, Harris- 
 burg, Allen, Kodosh, Philadelphia, Reading, De Molay, Pilgrim, 
 Towanda, Coeur de Lion, Baldwin, Mary, Corinthian, Chasseur, Melita, 
 Mount Vernon and Golden Gate Club. The division was in command of 
 R. E. Sir Wilson I. Fleming, Grand Commander of Pennsylvania, and 
 E. Sir Frank McSparren, Chief of Staff. Pittsburgh Commandery No. 
 I, was especially well represented, its column of marchers extending more 
 than half a square, while Tancred Commandery also shared liberally in 
 the applause showered upon the Pennsylvania delegations. 
 
 SIXTH GRAND DIVISION. 
 
 V. E. George Edwin Ohara, Deputy Grand Commander of Illinois, 
 Chief of Division; Holman G. Puritan, Chief of Staff. The following 
 Grand Commanderies and their Subordinate Commanderies: Indiana, 
 Texas, Mississippi, Michigan, Illinois, Tennessee, Wisconsin, New Jer- 
 sey, Georgia, Missouri, Alabama, Louisiana. 
 
 SEVENTH GRAND DIVISION. 
 
 E. Sir John H. Leathers, Chief of Division; Sir Knight Ernest 
 McPherson, Chief of Staff. The following Grand Commanderies and 
 their Subordinate Commanderies: Iowa, Minnesota, Kansas, Maryland, 
 Nebraska, Arkansas, West Virginia, Colorado, North Carolina, South 
 Dakota. 
 
 EIGHTH GRAND DIVISION. 
 
 R. E. Sir J. W. Chamberlain, Past Grand Commander of Minnesota, 
 Chief of Division; R. E. Sir Benton H. Langley, Chief of Staff. The 
 following Grand Commanderies and their Subordinate Commanderies: 
 Oregon, Washington, Wyoming, Montana, North Dakota, Arizona, 
 Florida, Indian Territory, District of Columbia, Oklahoma, New Mexico. 
 
 NINTH GRAND DIVISION. 
 
 E, Sir Thomas B. Hall, Chief of Division; Sir Knight John W. 
 Guthrie, Chief of Staff. Commanderies Subordinate to the Grand Com- 
 mandery of California: Sacramento, Pacific, El Dorado, Stockton. 
 
 TENTH GRAND DIVISION. 
 
 E. Sir William D. Stevens, Grand Junior Warden of California, 
 Chief of Division ; Sir Knight Perry Weidner, Chief of Staff. Com- 
 manderies Subordinate to the Grand Commandery of California: Los 
 Angeles, San Jose, Oakland. 
 
 ELEVENTH GRAND DIVISION. 
 
 E. Sir Joseph C. Campbell, Chief of Division ; Sir Knight William 
 C. Ralston, Chief of Staff. Commanderies Subordinate to the Grand 
 
KNIGHTS TEMPLAR PARADE. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 177 
 
 Commandery of California: Naval, Ventura, Woodland, St. Bernard, 
 San Diego, Visalia, San Luis Obispo, Riverside, Fresno, St. Omar, Pasa- 
 dena, Eureka, Lassen. 
 
 TWELFTH GRAND DIVISION. 
 
 E. Sir Hudson B. Gillis, Grand Senior Warden of California, Chief 
 of Division ; Sir Knight Edwin A. Forbes, Chief of Staff. Commanderies 
 Subordinate to the Grand Commandery of California : Oroville, Nevada, 
 Marysville, Chico, Red Bluff, Watsonville, Colusa, Mt. Shasta, Santa 
 Ana, Southern California, Santa Rosa, Mt. Olivet, Ukiah, Napa, Vaca- 
 ville, Bakersfield, Long Beach. 
 
 The route of march was from the corner of Geary and Kearny 
 streets; along Kearny to Pine street; along Pine to Montgomery; along 
 Montgomery to Market; along Market to Van Ness avenue and along 
 Van Ness avenue to Washington street, where the column was swung 
 around and countermarched over the same route. 
 
 The officers of the Encampment and Priory continued in the parade 
 until the reviewing stand was reached at the top of the hill, at Sutter 
 street and Van Ness avenue, where they took seats upon the platform to 
 view the splendid line of march. 
 
 On every street over which the march was made the curbs were 
 lined with spectators ten and twelve deep, while every stairway, window, 
 and in many instances, roofs, were peopled. The grand stands were 
 choked with humanity and the police were compelled to check the surging 
 masses. The people were as enthusiastic as they were numerous, swing- 
 ing their hats and shouting as the thousands of swords passed by. 
 
 From windows and housetops, in the wide vicinity, there burst 
 forth a snow-storm of waving handkerchiefs, and the wavers mingled 
 their cheers with those of the masses below as the gorgeously costumed 
 Knights went speeding by. 
 
 One of the innovations of the march was the presence of a number 
 of water-bottle wagons, which deposited syphons of Shasta Spring water 
 along the entire line of march for the benefit of the marchers, who were 
 perceptibly suffering under the torrid temperature of 102 degrees. These 
 bottles were picked up during the march, and when the thirsty Knight, 
 (still marching) had secured what drink he could, the bottle was set on 
 the street again to be picked up by the next sufferer, or the water-bottle 
 wagon. 
 
 Glasses were dispensed with, of course, and the fraters drank from 
 the spout. If the drinker pressed the lever too hard, a stream shot forth 
 well calculated to drown the would-be partaker. Sir C. C. Heckel suc- 
 ceeded in getting one of the bottles while he was sweltering under a brisk 
 march up one of the hills. With parched tongue and open mouth, he 
 aimed the syphon spout on a direct line with his throat. Anxiety over- 
 US ) 
 
178 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 stepped the bounds of prudence, for he pressed the lever with a force that 
 not only immediately enwrapped him in a most complete Shasta shower 
 bath, but the inner man remained as dry as the outer man had become 
 wet. 
 
 One of the sad incidents of the parade took the form in the death 
 of Sir Knight Joseph Leath, of the Grand Commandery of Tennessee, 
 while he was performing a most chivalrous act toward a brother Sir 
 Knight. Sir Leath was riding in a carriage at the head of the Coeur de 
 Lion Commandery, and while passing California street on Van Ness 
 avenue, he noticed an old friend marching in the parade who appeared 
 to be staggering from exhaustion and overcome by the heat. Sir Leath 
 ordered his driver to stop and invited the weary marcher to take his seat 
 in the carriage. As the gallant Knight stepped down from the carriage 
 he clasped his hands to his heart and sank to the ground dead. The 
 kind act of true fraternal fellowship which Sir Leath was performing 
 while on the very threshold of death gave a rich impressiveness to the 
 sorrow which was felt and expressed over his death. 
 
 When the grand parade of the morning had ended and luncheon was 
 over, member? of the Grand Commandery assembled in the main audi- 
 torium of Golden Gate Hall to transact the business of the Triennial 
 Session of the Grand Encampment. The entire afternoon was con- 
 sumed in arranging preliminary details for the session. None but mem- 
 bers of the Grand Commandery were permitted within the Auditorium, 
 with the exception of a few who were given privilege to hear several 
 of the speeches from the gallery. 
 
 Most conspicuous in the gathering was the Earl of Euston and his 
 staff, who occupied places on the platform with the officers of the Grand 
 Commandery. In their robes of scarlet splendor and trimmings of ermine, 
 the English delegation presented a striking feature and added lustre to 
 the setting of the scene. 
 
 E. Sir George D. Clark, chairman of the reception committee, and 
 a member of the executive committee of the Conclave, called the Com- 
 mandery to order, and introduced Governor George C. Pardee, of Cal- 
 ifornia as the first speaker. He gave the knights the liberty of the 
 length and breadth of his great state, and told of the accomplishments 
 of the order. Mayor Schmitz of San Francisco extended a welcome 
 on behalf of the city, while E. Sir Henry D. Loveland extended the 
 hospitality of the State Commanderies. He was followed by the Most 
 Eminent Grand Master Sir Henry B. Stoddard, who in his address 
 introduced the Earl of Euston. The Earl gave a short response. His 
 manner of delivery, full of enthusiasm, carried with it the emotion the 
 speaker felt in extending his thanks for the welcome accorded him. 
 His voice, though full and strong, seemed to tremble under the weight 
 
of his words as he told of the accomplishment of the Order in forming 
 a closer alliance between the nations of Great Britain and America. 
 
 The session then launched into the business that laid before it. In 
 addition to secret proceedings, the only business done was the appoint- 
 ment of committees on Credentials, Work of the Grand Officers, 
 Charter, and Dispensation. 
 
 Mechanic's Pavilion was a haven of refuge and rest for many of the 
 visitors during the afternoon. Its decorations of foliage, and perfume 
 from the redwood boughs were cooling and invigorating. Ice cream 
 and mineral water booths were the objects of unlimited attention, and 
 Commanderies showing exhibits of agricultural and mineral wealth were 
 magnets of interest. 
 
 Thousands crowded Mechanics' Pavilion at night to attend the re- 
 ception given in honor of the visiting Sir Knights. Never in the history 
 of the structure had such a crowd gathered within its walls, nor was such 
 a magnificent scene ever witnessed. All the splendor of the trappings 
 of the Sir Knights, and the dainty raiment of the ladies, were displayed 
 as the great promenade proceeded through the length of the main floor 
 of the Pavilion. A conservative estimate placed the number of visitors 
 at over 30,000. 
 
 The Earl of Euston, accompanied by his staff, were the guests 
 of the Commanderies quartered in the Pavilion. The Earl's arrival 
 was the occasion for a great demonstration. With his party he walked 
 along the promenade, while the band played English popular airs. 
 After a half hour, the Earl and his party returned to their apartments. 
 On every hand the local Commanderies showered their hospitality 
 upon the visitors, and the reception proved a glorious success from 
 every standpoint. 
 
 During the evening a promenade concert was also held in the Nave 
 of the Ferry Building, and notwithstanding the crowds at the Pavilion 
 reception, thousands were attracted to the Ferry Building and participated 
 in a most brilliant function. The concert was made the occasion for an 
 informal reception by the Sir Knights and ladies of California Com- 
 manderies. The view the Nave offered both of the illuminated city and 
 the lighted waters of San Francisco Bay, studded with warships and 
 merchant vessels, made the event especially auspicious. 
 
 It was a tired and weary regiment of pilgrims that sought their berths 
 that night. The long march in the magnificent parade, under a sun that 
 had no sympathy; the receptions, promenades, and band concerts of the 
 evening, (not to speak of the many other private and public functions), 
 were sufficient to test the most strenuous vitality, and we slept a needed 
 sleep. 
 
180 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 OTWITHSTANDING the activities of the previous day, there 
 was a brisk effort on the part of our pilgrims to report for break- 
 fast before "Old Sol" had raised his head out of his bed in the 
 east. Those who succeeded in rising before the sun had cause to 
 rejoice, for the torrid heat of the previous day was continued. "Old 
 Sol" again proved himself to be the most distinguished Knight of all, and 
 not content with such honors as 32nd and 33rd degrees, he blazed forth in 
 his own exclusiveness, at 102 degrees in the shade. 
 
 It seemed as if there was no end of pleasures, amusements and di- 
 versions as one glanced at the interesting program for the day, and 
 considered the entertainment already provided. Probably the most im- 
 portant event scheduled was the Competitive Drill for prizes which was 
 to be held in the morning in Golden Gate Park. Sessions of the 
 Grand Encampment, bay excursions, receptions, concerts and the banquet 
 to the Grand Encampment to be held in the evening, were among other 
 features of the day's program. 
 
 There was fully 25,000 people gathered on the sloping lawns sur- 
 rounding the ball park when the competitive drill began at 10 o'clock. 
 Four corps in all, competed. The trophies were perhaps the most valu- 
 able ever offered for a like occasion. Every drill corps that competed 
 received a handsome trophy, and its Commandery a stand of colors. 
 
 The Louisville Commandery Drill Corps was the first to drill, and 
 headed by their own Commandery band playing "Dixie" and led by 
 Captain Frank Fehr, they filed into the inclosed space set apart for the 
 drill. 
 
 After a turn across the field and back, the Kentuckians came to 
 attention before the judges, and were subjected to a critical inspection, 
 after which the tactics as laid down by the jurisdiction of California 
 were commenced. Movements in the school of Sir Knight, the school 
 of Commandery, and the manual of the Sword, were gone through. 
 
 From the first it was evident that the Kentuckians were well trained. 
 Their alignment was perfect; the movements of hands and feet were 
 as one man, and whenever a particularly brilliant movement was executed 
 the spectators broke into round after round of cheers and applause. 
 
 Thirty minutes were allowed each corps in which to go through the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 181 
 
 schedule of movements and the Louisville Corps finishing in ample 
 time, marched off the field to the melody of "My Old Kentucky Home." 
 
 The Malta Commandery Corps No. 21, of Binghamton, N. Y., was 
 the next to take the field. A. W. T. Black commanded the corps. 
 The New Yorkers gave a fine exhibition of drilling but were slower in 
 execution of movements than was the Louisville corps. Before the 
 entire schedule could be completed the Malta Corps was recalled on 
 account of the expiration of the time limit. 
 
 The crack St. Bernard Corps of Chicago was the next to enter 
 upon the field. This corps had won the championship in competitive 
 drills on several occasions, and was looked upon as well nigh invincible. 
 They were received with tremendous cheering as they swung into the 
 field, headed by the California Commandery band. In marked con- 
 trast to the long, easy strides, and apparent ease of the Louisville Corps 
 were the sharp, quick movements of the Chicagoans. The St. Bernard 
 Sir Knights were granted a special dispensation from the committee to 
 drill according to their own tactics in several of the required maneuvers, 
 while the balance of the corps were compelled to use the Sumner tactics. 
 Some thought this would give St. Bernard special advantages in the com- 
 petition but the Kentuckians gallantly announced, before the drill, that 
 they would abide by the decision of the judges without appeal. 
 
 The last of the competitors was the Ivanhoe Commandery Drill Corps, 
 No. 24, of Milwaukee, commanded by Captain D. Milton Jones. They 
 made a very favorable impression, and were repeatedly applauded but 
 their work was not quite as finished as that of the Louisville or St. 
 Bernard Corps. 
 
 Each of the competing corps was marked on the basis of 810 points 
 three for each of the 270 movements. Every one of the movements was 
 closely followed and the markings were made to the second decimal 
 point with the final result as follows : Louisville, 779.54 ; St. Bernard, 
 771.14; Ivanhoe, 725.03 and Malta, 655.82. The announcement of the 
 judges awarding first prize to the Kentuckians was received with thun- 
 derous applause and prolonged cheers and the Louisville Corps modestly 
 received the honor. During the interval while the judges were deliberat- 
 ing, the corps from Golden Gate Commandery and Los Angeles Com- 
 mandery gave exhibitions in fancy drilling. Their work was a revelation 
 to the gathered Sir Knights, and the opinion was frequently expressed 
 that the winning Kentuckians will be compelled to look to their laurels 
 if the above two corps enter in the competition at the next Conclave. 
 Besides the movements of the regular schedule, a number of fancy 
 tactics were gone through and were heartily applauded. 
 
 Those who sought the bay excursions on the steamers San Pablo, 
 Oakland and Tamalpais during the morning, found a delightful diversion 
 from the heat, together with a view of the scenic beauties of Golden Gate 
 
182 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 harbor. Others participated in well arranged excursions to the Cliff 
 House, Sutro Heights, Golden Gate Park and Ocean Beach. From 10 
 o'clock until the noon hour Red Bluff Commandery No. 18 entertained 
 the visiting Sir Knights and their ladies at the Commandery Head- 
 quarters in the United States Hotel and proved to be royal hosts. 
 
 Sessions of the Grand Encampment were held morning and after- 
 noon but were not public and their deliberations and action on various 
 matters were reported through the proper channels. 
 
 Receptions and entertainments continued unabated during the after- 
 noon. Among hosts were the Ladies' Committee; California Com- 
 mandery No. i ; Oakland Commandery No. 11 ; Golden Gate Com- 
 mandery No. 16; Red Bluff Commandery No. 18; Woodland Com- 
 mandery No. 21 and Fresno Commandery No. 29. 
 
 With the ambitious mercury rising above the 100 mark, it was de~ 
 cided by a party of our pilgrims to do the sight-seeing of the afternoon 
 in the "poor man's automobile" the trolley car. 
 
 Boarding a car in front of the Palace Hotel we passed through 
 newspaper row and the business section of the city, and going down 
 Jackson street saw the handsome Dewey Monument, erected in com- 
 memoration of the notable naval victory in Manila Bay. In the same 
 district we passed numerous old-time mansions, which stood as memo- 
 rials to the successful in the strife for wealth and gold in the early days 
 of California, when San Francisco was little else than the supply sta- 
 tion for the mining camps. Nob Hill is the name of the district, though 
 Sir Reel insisted on pronouncing it with an "M" instead of "N." Sir 
 Steinmiller who is versed in ancient history explained that because 
 the community was rife with mansions it was called "Nobility Hill" 
 but that recent generations had become free with the appellation and 
 used only the first syllable, calling it Nob Hill. Northward, Kearny 
 street with the leading stores extended past Telegraph Hill, rising al- 
 most 300 feet and giving a magnificent view from the summit. 
 
 Fairmount Hotel, a structure of beautiful architectural design over- 
 looks the city in this vicinity, while directly opposite we observed the 
 Hopkins' Institute of Art. As the car sped along a beautiful view was 
 unfolded. From below the eminence upon which we were riding, arose 
 the Hall of Justice, its clock tower almost facing us. To the east we 
 could view the Ferry Depot and the busy harbor ; almost at our feet lay 
 Chinatown ; a little beyond were the crowded streets of the business dis- 
 trict, the waterfront with swift boats furrowing the tranquil waters and 
 the fishing smacks coursing the bay under their many-shaped sails. On 
 the opposite shore was shown a fine view of Oakland, Alameda, Berkeley 
 and the University of California. Midway in the bay could be seen Al- 
 catraz Island with its harbor defenses and military prison and Yerba 
 Buena Island and its naval training school. In the distance this interest- 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 183 
 
 ing panorama was set off by Sausalito, Point Richmond and the rising 
 eminences of Mount Tamalpais and Mount Diablo. 
 
 Striking a downward grade we passed through a residential section 
 of latter-day millionaires and reached a point where a full view of the 
 Presidio Government Reservation and Fort Mason could be had. Pass- 
 ing Laurel Hill cemetery we entered into the Richmond district, where a 
 view of the ocean shore was before us, while to the right the Bay of 
 San Francisco was still in sight. Fort Point, the Cliff House, and the 
 Seal Rocks, already known to us, were again seen and appreciated, 
 while Golden Gate Park and the Government Life Saving Station were 
 also visited. Before returning we took a profitable walk through 
 Sutro Gardens, a beautiful park on the edge of the ocean. 
 
 Returning by another route we passed along the southern boundary 
 line of Golden Gate Park, affording rich examples of artistic landscape 
 gardening. We passed Strawberry Hill with its observatory according 
 to Sir Biddle's explanation the observatory was erected to assist in lo- 
 cating the strawberries while in the same vicinity we saw the Affiliated 
 Colleges of the State University. Passing through Ashbury Heights and 
 by Mount Olympus, we glided over the famous switch-back into the Mis- 
 sion district, riding by the new Mission High School, and the famous old 
 Mission Dolores Church. 
 
 Striking the home stretch of our tour we passed the magnificent City 
 Hall, the Hall of Records, Mechanic's Pavilion, the new Postoffice, In 
 course of construction, at a cost of $3,000,000, and the monument to the 
 discovery of gold in California. We reached the termination of our 
 delightful ride after passing the Academy of Sciences and Pioneer Hall 
 founded by philanthropist James Lick, and the United States Mint, the 
 largest in the world, declared by Sir William G. Lee to be "the greatest 
 money-maker on earth." After the eye had been engaged with the view 
 of San Francisco itself, the city appears to be built in terraced rows rising 
 steeply from the water-front. It is rather motley in architecture. Low 
 frame buildings were at first the rule, partly because they were sufficient 
 to the climate and partly in deference to traditions of earthquake ; but 
 at length builders ventured taller structures, of brick and stone, and 
 every year many lofty, elegant buildings are added. Certainly no one of 
 them has been shaken down as yet, and possibly the architects have au- 
 thority for believing that even Vulcan is superannuated and in his second 
 childhood is appeased with a rattle. 
 
 It is a city of fair aspect in one direction undulating from the 
 water's edge, in another rising abruptly to the precipitous heights of 
 Telegraph Hill. 
 
 San Francisco's topography is such as to display, from each of half 
 a hundred vantage points, some new phases. Then, too, most of the treas- 
 ures are gathered and placed for the visitor rather than for the selfish 
 
184 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 pleasure of its own citizens. In the magnificent Union Ferry Depot 
 (owned by the state of California) at the gates of the city, is housed the 
 splendid collection of the State Mining Bureau and State Board of Trade 
 and the exhibit of curios of the Alaska Commercial Company, now owned 
 by the State University. 
 
 San Francisco is a city richly endowed by nature, and with this capi- 
 tal, her loyal sons and daughters have wrought greater fortunes of 
 beauty, architecturally and scenically. With her natural beauties of bay, 
 ocean, and rugged landscape as a basis, the city has been further em- 
 bellished by the hand of her people and shekels of gold wrought from out 
 of her own soil. 
 
 Yet the city is not one of special architectural merit as a whole. 
 Still there are many things that are positively unique not because of age, 
 nor beauty, nor historical association, but because they reflect the mode 
 of life of a people, some of whom are Americans unlike the Americans 
 of most other states. The cosmopolitan air of the city which shelters a 
 population drawn from every corner of the earth, lends a peculiar interest 
 to the visitor which can scarcely be found elsewhere than in Paris or 
 Gibraltar. A touch of the Orient, a flavor of sunny Spain, a smattering 
 of France, a touch of Italy and the Mediterranian in the quaint fishing 
 fleets, a breath of old England inspired from the travelers of Australia 
 who always rest on the Pacific shore, a trace of the end of the earth from 
 the visitors from Alaska and the Klondike gold fields who are always 
 present in large numbers these, and representatives of all other national- 
 ities, lend that cosmopolitan seasoning which is so delightfully palatable 
 to all visitors. 
 
 San Franciscans are a pleasure loving people devoting their leisure 
 hours in enjoying the good things of life. They are liberal patrons of art 
 and music, and lovers of nature. 
 
 Though little more than a half century old as a city, it has become an 
 ideal commonwealth. Its commercial enterprises have already attained 
 a high place among the cities of the nation. One of the most notable 
 of the city's commercial achievements is the Union Iron Works, a famous 
 shipbuilding plant, which employs 4,000 men. It was here that the "Ore- 
 gon," "Charleston," "Olympia," "San Francisco," "Monterey," "Ohio," 
 "Wisconsin," of our navy were built, as well as the submarine torpedo 
 boat destroyers "Pike" and "Grampus." At the time of the Conclave 
 there were 10 organized companies operating 12 steamship lines between 
 San Francisco and foreign countries, exclusive of the vessels that ply be- 
 tween Golden Gate and the Canadian ports. Supplies are sent out of 
 San Francisco regularly to such distant points as Australia, Oceanica, 
 China, Japan, Phillipine Islands, Hawaii, Borneo, South America, Pan- 
 ama and Alaska. The natural ocean outlet, provided by San Francisco 
 Bay, has built up the shipping trade to such a point that the city has be 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOI4DEN GATE 185 
 
 come a great railway terminal for transcontinental freight, in both ex- 
 ports and imports. 
 
 For years San Francisco suffered from lack of manufacturing indus- 
 tries, due in great measure to the fact that it could not provide a moderate 
 priced fuel. In recent years fuel oil has been discovered in great quan- 
 tities, and this is already solving the manufacturing problem. More than 
 half the steam locomotives in the state are so constructed as to use this oil 
 for fuel, while many of the ocean steamers are using it successfully. An- 
 other step in securing cheap power has been taken in harnessing the 
 mountain streams, and using their force to generate electricity. .Already 
 the most important of these mountain waterways are under control. 
 Instead of gold, which in the early days was the ruler of the destiny of the 
 city and state, commerce is king today and the populace is bowing to this 
 regal authority. 
 
 Although the population is given as 400,000, the city has an enormous 
 floating population which it is difficult to estimate, and which makes it 
 possible to presume that there are 500,000 souls within the city most 
 any day. Most of the visitors, and for that matter, a great proportion 
 of the inhabitants, live on the European plan. They engage a room in a 
 hotel or boarding house, and eat whenever and wherever their fancy dic- 
 tates. It is a city of restaurants, which are as various in price as they are 
 in class and nationality. Within 15 minutes walk through the heart of 
 the city one may encounter American, French, Italian, Mexican, Spanish, 
 Chinese, Hungarian, English and German eating houses, and while they 
 vary in quality and price, the field is so thoroughly covered and competi- 
 tion so keen, that go where one will, the diner can secure "value received" 
 in the restaurants of San Francisco. 
 
 The city is blessed with surroundings that afford visions of both 
 mountain and sea and has become the center of a chain of suburbs, some 
 of which in themselves have already the appearance of cities. With 
 its beautiful natural harbor and ideal location at the gateway into the Far 
 East, which at this time offers so much promise, and from its position 
 as the outlet not only of the commerce of the nation, but also of a highly 
 important agricultural and fruit-growing district, San Francisco today 
 stands on the threshold that looks into greater possibilities and gives 
 more encouragement for future prosperity than many other cities, of rela- 
 tive size, in the land. 
 
 Satisfying our appetites, which were encouraged by the car rides 
 and sojourns of the afternoon, our "happy family" of pilgrims became 
 a portion of the inspiring promenade upon the gorgeously illuminated 
 thoroughfares, in search of some of the pleasures and festivities which 
 the evening so liberally offered. 
 
 A notable and brilliant reception of the evening was given by Pitts- 
 
186 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 burgh Commandery No. I, in the Marble Hall and Palm Gardens of the 
 Palace Hotel. So popular had Pennsylvania become at the Conclave, 
 that from 8 o'clock to n o'clock, the hours set in which to receive, a 
 constant stream of Sir Knights and their ladies, from all sections of the 
 country, took the opportunity to pay their respects to the "Smoky City" 
 delegation, and carried with them souvenir plates as a lasting remem- 
 brance of Pennsylvania hospitality. 
 
 Other noteworthy receptions of the evening were those conducted by 
 the Ladies of the Conclave in the Palace Hotel ; California Command- 
 ery Night, with an exhibition drill and grand ball in Mechanics' Pavi- 
 lion ; reception by Oroville Commandery No. 5 in Mechanics' Pavilion; 
 reception by Nevada Commandery No. 6 in Mechanics' Pavilion; recep- 
 tion by Marysville Commandery No. 7 in Mechanics' Pavilion ; recep- 
 tion and ball by Stockton Commandery No. 8 in Lyric Hall ; reception 
 by Oakland Commandery No. 1 1 in Native Sons' Hall ; reception by 
 Golden Gate Commandery No. 16 in Golden Gate Hall ; reception by 
 Naval Commandery No. 19 in Lyric Hall; reception by Fresno Com- 
 mandery No. 29 in Pythian Castle ; and an elaborate reception in the 
 Maple Room of the Palace Hotel, conducted by the Grand Command- 
 ery of Ohio, in honor of the Most Eminent Grand Master of the United 
 States, and representatives of Great Britain and the British depend- 
 encies and to the members of the Grand Encampment of the United 
 States. 
 
 In fact the hospitality was so general and generous, and the recep- 
 tions so numerous, that Sir Kreps, who is an authority on business law, 
 declared that the bankruptcy laws of California must be most liberal in 
 permitting the appointment of so many "receivers" in one day. 
 
 Probably the stellar attraction of the night was the exquisite offi- 
 cial banquet of the Conclave, in honor of the Grand Encampment of the 
 United States held in the spacious dining rooms of St. Francis Hotel. 
 Earl Euston and his party were among the special guests. Four hundred 
 Sir Knights were in attendance. 
 
 In point of floral decoration, illumination, and detail of menu, the 
 banquet was admitted to have been one of the finest ever held in the 
 "Golden Gate City." With Sir Reuben H. Lloyd as toastmaster and a 
 staff of eloquent speakers, the affair terminated in a sparkling array of 
 pithy comment, appropriate anecdotes, sterling examples of oratory, and 
 bright, crisp wit and lofty humor. 
 
 Earl Euston, when called upon, graciously responded, and declared 
 that he and the members of his party did not have words to express their 
 appreciation for the kindness, hospitality and brotherly love shown 
 them since their arrival in New York. 
 
 "I live for peace and I want to try and draw the people of our dif- 
 ferent lands closer together," continued his lordship. "This greeting 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 187 
 
 will always be a green, refreshing memory. England, Wales, Ireland 
 and Scotland are not far away from San Francisco. Come over the her- 
 ring pond and let us reciprocate for all this kindness. All we ask you to 
 do is to pull the latchstring. 
 
 "May your present President be your future one, and help cement the 
 bond of friendship between our two great nations." 
 
 Grand Master Stoddard alluded to the flag that is buried. He meant 
 the Confederate emblem for which he had fought, and with vehement 
 gesture and pointing to the Stars and Stripes he said : 
 
 "This is our only emblem, and our life's blood from one end of the 
 land to the other is pledged for its integrity." 
 
 His auditors rose with him to the occasion, and there was a tumultu- 
 ous demonstration. 
 
 "May peace be our heritage," continued the speaker, "and let us live 
 up to the ideals of Knight Templarism, the fatherhood of God and the 
 brotherhood of man." 
 
 The other distinguished speakers were C. E. Matier and A. Woodi- 
 wiss of Lord Euston's party, V. E. Sir H. W. Rugg, V. E. Sir W. B. 
 Melish; General J. C. Smith of Chicago, and Senator Perkins of Cali- 
 fornia 
 
 While hospitality was the order of the Conclave on all sides and 
 from every source, a pleasing example of good will and kind treatment 
 to brother man was exemplified by the Press Club of San Francisco, which 
 inaugurated a most liberal "open door policy" to the Sir Knights and 
 visiting newspapermen. 
 
 Early in the day, in response to repeated invitations, a number of 
 the Allegheny pilgrims visited the handsome and exquisitely comfortable 
 quarters of the association of newspaper writers. To say that the treat- 
 ment afforded was most hospitable expresses it mildly, and when the pil- 
 grims were compelled to leave, owing to the many pressing engagements, 
 which they were in duty bound to respect, the leave-taking was only made 
 possible upon promise to return later in the evening, and share in the 
 enjoyment of a banquet and vaudeville performance which the club 
 provided upon its own stage and in its own auditorium, in which pro- 
 fessional talent was to appear. 
 
 Sir. C. H. Wilson, chairman of the Press Committee of the Cub, 
 greeted us warmly and offered the comfortable and handsomely furnished 
 rooms to our disposal. While his hospitality was unlimited, it must be 
 said in the fullest justice, that every member of the organization whom 
 it was our good fortune to meet, exhibited equal kindness to our pilgrims. 
 
 The members of our party were deeply impressed with the cordiality 
 of the San Francisco newspapermen; while we found the newspapers 
 themselves as modernly equipped and well conducted as any that exists 
 
188 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 in other metropolitan cities. They print the news, all of it, and they 
 were well and cleanly edited. 
 
 It was not until midnight had faded into the early hours of morn 
 that the pilgrims had another opportunity to even recall the previous en- 
 gagement, and in respect to the kindness of the Press Club members, 
 sought their headquarters, if for no other reason, than to offer a fitting 
 apology. 
 
 Even at that late hour the welcome was most gracious. The per- 
 formance had long been concluded and to the startling surprise of the 
 visiting pilgrims, the hosts insisted upon receiving our delegates in the 
 auditorium and giving another performance for our special benefit. As 
 the majority of the professional talent had long since left the building, 
 their positions on the program were taken by members of the club them- 
 selves, who offered an entertainment that can in truth be said to have 
 equalled that of any professional performance. The talent of the per- 
 formers was remarkable, and after enjoying further hospitality in the 
 form of a liberal luncheon, the Allegheny pilgrims departed with the 
 kindliest remembrances of most generous hosts. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 HE morning found no abatement of the oppressive heat which 
 had prevailed for the past few days. Californians were strictly 
 on the defensive in sustaining their integrity, having previously 
 and repeatedly informed us that their climate knew no intense 
 heat nor severe cold. 
 
 Californians, in offering evidence to sustain their claims, produced 
 the weather records for the past 10 years, and it must be said in respect 
 to our hosts, that the register failed to show a time in those years when 
 the thermometer had reached such ambitious heights. 
 
 The program for the day was as diversified and offered equal interest 
 to those of the previous days. In the morning a session of the Grand En- 
 campment was held in Golden Gate Hall and excursions were provided 
 on the bay and to the Cliff House, Park, Sutro Heights, Ocean 
 Beach. Another session of the Grand Encampment in Golden Gate Hall 
 was scheduled for the afternoon, as well as reception and entertainment 
 by Ladies' Committee at the Palace Hotel; Ladies' reception under 
 auspices of California Commandery No. i in Mechanics' Pavilion; re- 
 ception by Oakland Commandery No. n in Native Sons' Hall; reception 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 189 
 
 by Golden Gate Commandery No. 16 in the Mark Hopkins' Institute of 
 Art ; excursion to the University of California, Berkeley, and reception by 
 the officers of the University to visiting Sir Knights and ladies; concert 
 by California Glee Club and university orchestra in Greek Theatre, which 
 seats 8,000 persons. In the evening the Chinese play at the Grand Opera 
 House was to be repeated, as was the reception and entertainment at 
 the Press Club; promenade concert in the Nave of the Ferry Building; 
 reception by Ladies' Committee in Palace Hotel ; reception by Cali- 
 fornia Commandery No. i in Mechanics' Pavilion ; reception by 
 Ladies of Oakland Commandery No. n in Nave of Ferry Building; 
 reception by Golden Gate Commandery No. 16 in Mark Hopkins' 
 Institute of Art and open-air concert in Union Square. 
 
 A day filled to overflowing with engagements stood before us. En- 
 gagements which we were in honor and duty bound to respect. It was 
 our last day in the Conclave city, for we were to leave in the morning. 
 What more appropriate program could we have selected than one which 
 provided for a farewell visit to the many Commandery headquarters, who 
 were ever lavish in their entertainment, most liberal in their hospitality, 
 and found honor and pleasure in greeting a brother. 
 
 Commanderies of San Francisco, of the state of California, and visit- 
 ing Commanderies innumerable, maintained an "open house" throughout 
 the entire week, and from the kindly spirit and generous entertainment 
 which was so freely shown on every hand it was our duty to bid farewell 
 to our Sir Knight brothers and thank them, and give expression of our 
 appreciation for their hospitality, in words and by the clasp of the 
 hand. 
 
 It would be a hopeless task to attempt to properly describe the liberal 
 hospitality of the entertainers. In the many headquarters scattered 
 among the hotels, halls, and the Mechanics' Pavilion, a reception com- 
 mittee was almost incessantly in waiting, and the visitors were showered, 
 not only with kind words, warm greetings and fraternal affection, but 
 were compelled to partake of sumptuous refreshments and become recipi- 
 ents of tokens and souvenirs innumerable. 
 
 The products of nature which find such a glorious triumph in the 
 soil of California, were appropriately made the offering of the Com- 
 manderies of that state to their visiting brethren. Grapes, which in in- 
 dividual size and cluster had never been seen by the visitors, were 
 lavishly dispensed. Strawberries, oranges, plums, apricots, pears, raisins, 
 fruits and flowers of every growth which in size and splendor find no 
 description elsewhere but in the accounts of the ancient land of Canaan, 
 were distributed by the California Commanderies. California Com- 
 mandery No. i and Golden Gate Commandery No. 16 sent a wagon-load 
 of baskets, containing all varieties of wine and fruits, selected from the 
 
190 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 most fancy species, to our headquarters, where every member of our party 
 was presented with an individual basket. 
 
 Truly, these offerings of fruit on every side and their splendor, 
 brought to our minds, with renewed force, the truth and appropriate- 
 ness of those sterling Biblical axioms : "For by thy fruits shall I know 
 you" and "Such as I have, give I unto thee." In the full ripeness of the 
 fruit we recognized the maturity of the hospitality of our hosts ; in size, 
 the bigness of their hearts ; in taste, the sweet flavor of the fraternal af- 
 fection; and in luscious juice, the flow of that spirit of charity, benevo- 
 lence and hospitality that quenches the thirsty in life, relieves the weary, 
 and removes many of the obstacles in the pathway to eternity. 
 
 Throughout the day we passed from one Commandery headquarters 
 to another, unable physically, to enjoy the fullness of their hospitality, but 
 capable in spirit to find mental nourishment in their sentiments to store 
 away in our hearts, and hang upon the walls of memory, and offer them, 
 in our humble way, our appreciation and extend our highest respects. 
 
 The hearty social welcome tendered to each and every member of our 
 party made us feel so much at home that we regretted our visit had not 
 been lengthened to as many days and weeks as there were hours. We 
 were immediately introduced, and soon were made to feel, from the 
 general warm-heartedness and sincere greeting, perfectly at ease and 
 acquainted, no half-way meeting and greeting, but real, true, whole- 
 souled welcome. 
 
 Reaching the various headquarters we were at once ushered into the 
 banquet hall. Tables were profusely bedecked with beautiful baskets, 
 pillars and columns of exquisite cut flowers, which filled the air with their 
 perfume. A button-hole bouquet, prepared by the ladies of the re- 
 ceiving Commanderies, was offered every visiting Sir Knight, although 
 in the course of the day the bouquets became more numerous than our 
 button-holes. Strewn about the tables were all the delicacies of the 
 season, and some which had been rushed ahead of the coming season. 
 It can in truth be said that the pilgrims of Allegheny Commandery did 
 justice to all things, stood by their post nobly, and had excellent staying 
 qualities. 
 
 The beautiful and graceful attire of the ladies and their kindly demo- 
 cratic manner, lent additional pleasures, while the Sir Knigfhts were as 
 old-time and bosom friends, once we stepped over their thresholds. 
 
 The days so spent are still so bright in memory of things pleasant, 
 that they will ever remain to us full of delightful remembrances and 
 pleasant meetings. The warm shake of the right hand has ever left the 
 tinge of fraternal greeting and brotherly love, and the friends made and 
 won on that last day at the Twenty-ninth Triennial Conclave shall ever 
 be remembered. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 191 
 
 Were proper space devoted to the merits of the entertainment provid- 
 ed by each Commandery, the accounts could not find space in a volume 
 several times this size. The attempt to do justice will not, nay, could 
 not be undertaken, although as a means to illustrate the many kind- 
 nesses showered upon us, a brief mention of some of the hosts may be 
 permitted. 
 
 California Grand Commandery, aside from its continual lavish enter- 
 tainment, gave away as souvenirs thousands of dollars worth of gold 
 nuggets and specimens of ore from the rich mines which have made the 
 state famous. 
 
 California Commandery, No. I, (with 21 other Commanderies) found 
 quarters in the enormous Mechanics' Pavilion, on this occasion, won ad- 
 ditional laurels, fully maintaining her enviable reputation for generous 
 and liberal entertainment, overflowing with her good cheer and hospitality. 
 It maintained a band of 40 pieces, and a drum and bugle corps of 30 
 pieces during the Conclave. 
 
 Golden Gate Commandery No. 16, entertained gorgeously in its own 
 hall, which was beautifully decorated, and maintained a band of 60 pieces. 
 It took leading parts and acquitted itself with honor, winning plaudits 
 from the assembled thousands. 
 
 Los Angeles Command ery, No. 9, exemplified the spirit of liberality 
 for which the west is famed, and with the representation of 450 Sir 
 Knights and ladies, entered upon a series of brilliant social functions 
 and generous receptions that brought it priceless prestige. 
 
 Sacramento Commandery No. 2, offered Knightly hospitality in its 
 headquarters in Pioneer Hall ; it was accompanied by a band of 22 pieces, 
 and an orchestra of 10 pieces, and distributed handsome exchange badges 
 of gold ormolu, richly enameled. 
 
 Pacific Commandery No. 3, of Sonora, was a liberal host and ex- 
 hibited an interesting display of $40,000 worth of gold specimens from 
 the mines of Calavera and Tuolumne counties. El Dorado Commandery, 
 No. 4, whose headquarters were in Hotel Fremont, presented each 
 visitor with a bottle of wine and basket of fruit both home products. 
 Oroville Commandery, No. 5, kept open house in Mechanics' Pavilion 
 and brought with it tons of fresh fruits from its home county. Nevada 
 Commandery, No. 6, of Nevada City, Cal., entertained in Mechanics' Pa- 
 vilion. This Commandery represented the greatest gold-producing county 
 in the state and had a magnificent exhibition of gold quartz and nuggets. 
 Souvenir boxes, containing gold bearing quartz and specimens of petri- 
 fied wood, were presented to visitors 
 
 San Jose Commandery, No. 10, representing the Santa Clara Valley, 
 distributed the choicest flowers and fruits which have made that valley 
 famous. Red Bluff Commandery, No. 17, which also had its headquar- 
 
192 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 ters in Mechanics' Pavilion, offered a rich exhibit of ore and fruits, and 
 entertained with Northern California Battalion. Mount Olivet Com- 
 mandery, No. 20, of Petaluma, also stationed in the Pavilion, had a unique 
 exhibit representing a redwood forest, in the midst of which was shown a 
 tavern wherein the Commandery had its headquarters. Watsonville 
 Commandery, No. 22, also quartered in the Pavilion, showered visitors 
 with the renown Watsonville strawberries, cream and fruit which know 
 no equal in size and flavor. Stockton Commandery, No. 8, entertained 
 on an elaborate scale, with music, dancing and souvenirs. Fresno Com- 
 mandery, No. 29, distributed cartons of raisins and samples of Fresno's 
 famous wines. Santa Rosa Commandery, No. 14, had a car load of de- 
 licious fruit to offer. 
 
 Among other California Commanderies who were prominent in pro- 
 viding entertainment by means of receptions, concerts, balls, and open- 
 house parties, were: Marysville, No. 7; Chico, No. 12; Lassen, No. 13; 
 Ventura, No. 18 ; Naval, No. 19 ; Woodland, No. 21 ; Saint Bernard, No. 
 23 ; Colusa, No. 24 ; San Diego, No. 25 ; Visalia, No. 26 ; San Luis Obispo, 
 No. 27; Riverside, No. 28; St. Omer, No. 30; Pasadena, No. 31; Mt. 
 Shasta, No. 32; Ukiah, No. 33; Napa, No. 34; Eureka, No. 35; Santa 
 Ana, No. 36; Southern California, No. 37; Vacaville, No. 38; Bakers- 
 ville, No. 39; Long Beach, No. 40. 
 
 These Commanderies are known and distinguished wherever the 
 order exists ; and today there is nowhere a Commandery more renowned. 
 They have a national reputation for character of work, and particularly 
 for general and liberal hospitality ; and they command the respect of every 
 Commandery in the land, and we may add, of the entire Fraternity of 
 Masons. They have a power in the community which is great and up- 
 lifting. Their pilgrimage to the Twenty-seventh Triennial Conclave, in 
 our own city, have made known the character of the people, the products, 
 the advantages, the opportunities, the blessings of this Golden State, in 
 most potent and beneficent manner. 
 
 Aside from those mentioned there were scores of other Commander- 
 ies from within and without the state, whose liberality was boundless and 
 who were enthusiastic exponents of the "open door" policy. All the 
 State Grand Commanderies entertained at gorgeous receptions and con- 
 tinually offered social diversion on an elaborate scale. 
 
 Appreciation was general, among the visiting and resident Sir 
 Knights, for the liberal distribution of a magnificent souvenir edition of 
 the "Trestle Board." This issue, the "Conclave Number," was offered to 
 every Sir Knight gratuitously, and was well edited, beautifully illustrated, 
 handsomely bound, and rife with interesting data pertaining to Knight 
 Templar history. 
 
 After accomplishing the greatest day's work of the Conclave, the busi- 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 193 
 
 ness sessions of the Grand Encampment came to a close during the after- 
 noon. The announcement was made that the next Conclave was voted to 
 Saratoga Springs, N. Y., to begin on the second Tuesday in July, 1907. 
 The election of Grand Officers resulted as follows : Most Eminent Grand 
 Master, Sir George M. Moulton, Chicago; Deputy Grand Master, Right 
 Eminent Sir Henry W. Rugg, Providence, R. I. ; Grand Generalissimo, 
 Very Eminent Sir William B. Melish, Cincinnati; Grand Captain-Gen- 
 eral, Very Eminent Sir Frank H. Thomas, Washington, D. C. ; Grand 
 Senior Warden, Very Eminent Sir Arthur Mac Arthur, Troy, N. Y. ; 
 Grand Junior Warden, Very Eminent Sir W. Frank Pierce, Oakland, 
 Cal. ; Grand Treasurer, Very Eminent Sir H. Wales, Lines, Meriden, 
 Conn. ; Grand Recorder, Very Eminent Sir John A. Gerow, Detroit, Mich. 
 Following his election, the Grand Master appointed the following officers, 
 who were installed to serve under him : Grand Prelate, Very Eminent 
 Sir W. Worrall, D. D., Kentucky ; Grand Standard Bearer, Very Eminent 
 Sir William H. Norris, Iowa; Grand Sword Bearer, Very Eminent Sir 
 Joseph K. Orr, Georgia; Grand Warder, Very Eminent Sir Edward W. 
 Wellington, Kansas; Grand Captain of the Guard, Very Eminent Sir 
 J. W. Chamberlain, Minnesota. Other important business was trans- 
 acted, but its nature was not made public. 
 
 During the afternoon not less than 5,000 Sir Knights and their ladies 
 visited the University of California in Berkeley, where they were made 
 the guests of the faculty and students of that institution. A concert and 
 entertainment was given in the Greek Theatre which was both classic 
 and entertaining, by the students of the university. After a complete and 
 interesting inspection of the institution the visitors were tendered a for- 
 mal reception. 
 
 One of the most brilliant functions of the Conclave took place during 
 the afternoon and evening in the Mark Hopkins Institute of Art, under 
 the auspices of the Ladies of Golden Gate Commandery, No. 16, which 
 was in the form of a reception to the New Grand Encampment Officers. 
 The halls and galleries, from whose walls hung the canvas of old and 
 famous masters, were illuminated and decorated in such great array that 
 they blazed forth in a riot of splendor. 
 
 The beauty and handsome attire of the fair women and the gorgeous 
 trappings of the plumed Sir Knights added to the magnificent grandeur 
 and general elegance. An incessant stream of visitors presented their 
 invitations at the door and entered upon the gorgeous parade through the 
 halls and galleries. 
 
 Entering the building, the visitors were received by the wives of the 
 Past Commanders of Golden Gate Commandery, No. 16. Ladies of the 
 Floor Committee then ushered the visitors through the entire building, 
 and conducted them finally to the main dining hall in the basement, where 
 refreshments were served. During the night crowds gathered upon the 
 (13) 
 
194 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 lawn and were entertained with an open air concert ; while two orchestras 
 provided music for those within the mansion. 
 
 When the hours had grown small, a feeling close to the sentimental 
 overcame us as we slowly sought our way to the hotel for it was the 
 eve of our departure. We were in full realization that the myriads of 
 electric lights, grouped in spectacular array, were shining upon us for the 
 last time. We thought of our leave-taking on the morrow the severence 
 from the joviality and happy spirit of the Conclave and the thousands that 
 had helped and participated in making these conditions possible. May 
 their course ever be onward and upward. "So mote it be." 
 
 It was not with light step that we sauntered along with these thoughts 
 in mind, and we eagerly sought our couches to dream away, if possible, 
 the sadness of our farewell. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 HE Chinese elevator man at the hotel was a very busy individual 
 in the morning. So was the lady manager of the hostelry, behind 
 her little "punch-and-judy" cabinet. The Japanese bell boy, the 
 Russian engineer and the Ethiopian furnace tender, were all in a 
 high state of action. Not a nationality on the hotel force was inactive. 
 For the pilgrims of Allegheny Commandery were preparing to leave. 
 
 The Chinaman and Japanese in their excitement and confusion, be- 
 came involved in a flow of international rhetoric that was edifying, to say 
 the least. The elevator man, whose purpose in life was to elevate human- 
 ity and place it on a higher plane, gave an exhibition of restlessness and 
 impatience together with a flow of speech, that was startling. 
 
 Final attention to baggage, settling of hotel accounts, a word of di- 
 rection to give these and many other things engrossed the attention of 
 the pilgrims, until all were ready to say a tearless farewell to the hotel. 
 
 Once on the outside of the building, and face to face with the Con- 
 clave city itself, the realization of our leave-taking dawned upon us in 
 its most impressive form. As we looked into the streets, Sir Knights 
 were moving about in preparation for the pleasures of the day, which we 
 were to sacrifice ; while the sleeping skeletons of unlighted electric-light 
 bulbs, spoke mutely of the glory of the night to come. 
 
 It was with slow and measured step that we made our way to the rail- 
 road station. We knew full well that we were about to enter upon our 
 homeward flight. To turn back, after realizing our fondest hope and 
 expectancy, in meeting friend, brother and sister, from every corner of the 
 nation, in one happy band ; under the skies of one city, and in a spirit of 
 affection and happiness which had swayed the Conclave atmosphere from 
 end to end. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 195 
 
 From all corners of the nation yes, even from other nations there 
 came pilgrims, and were met together. Each brother had vied with the 
 other in making his neighbor comfortable; every individual and every 
 Commandery had become a decimal of the unity of splendor, good cheer 
 and fraternal fellowship not in words alone, but all that the terms imply 
 in spirit and reality. 
 
 As we walked the streets, which were rapidly becoming more and 
 more populated, and the sun rose higher and higher in the skies, every 
 scene brought its reminder of some pleasant memory; every object had its 
 recollection of some pleasure enjoyed. Hand in hand, heart to heart, all 
 had worked together for mutual benefit, and the happy result knew no 
 expression. 
 
 California had been a royal and liberal host. San Francisco had 
 been extravagant in her hospitality. Fame had long since inscribed both 
 city and state high up in the records of entertainers; while fortune had 
 laid the richest products of the earth and the precious metals of the mines 
 at her feet, in compensation of her worth. 
 
 Our entertainment had been planned and carried out on a magnificent 
 scale; festivities knew no end, and hospitality was lavish. Through all 
 this munificent abundance, and through the brilliancy of the illuminations, 
 decorations, and the Knightly attire, there shone a light whose radiance 
 was unconquerable, whose rays penetrated every combating brilliancy, 
 whose power could not be denied the light that signalled from heart to 
 heart, that made fellow-beings out of men, that made brothers out of 
 strangers, that gave life a purpose, and which showed material form in 
 the seal of fraternity, by the clasp of the hand. 
 
 The city still entertained these dear friends whom we had learned to 
 know and appreciate ; and with suppressed feelings we continued our way 
 to the station. We had gathered on the very edge of the country, and had 
 joined hands and hearts for a brief week. Physical visions may depart 
 faces may melt away from view, and even from mind but memories live 
 forever! Recollections survive beyond the grave. 
 
 Our greeting had been hearty and sincere, our leave-taking a regret 
 to all. The city and state were proud of the honor of entertaining the 
 Sir Knights of the nation, and this was none the less reciprocated by the 
 visitors, who considered it a privilege to meet upon the golden shores of 
 the Pacific. The program of the Conclave entertainment was to continue 
 until the following night, and we were almost persuaded to break our 
 itinerary so as to enjoy the fullness of the festivities. This, however, 
 was impossible. We finally reached the Southern Pacific (Coast Line) 
 railroad station, where at 9 o'clock, our train was to leave for San Jose. 
 
 As we took a last look, from the station, over the beautiful panorama 
 that San Francisco offers, and saw in every direction some color or dec- 
 oration in respect to the Conclave, the visions and impressions of the 
 
196 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 past week again sped through our minds ; we lived those pleasant hours 
 over again in so many seconds, and with sad hearts we departed from the 
 Conclave City of 1904, and seeking the train sheds, came upon our train 
 our own dear "Allegheny Special !" 
 
 What a haven of rest it offered ! How inviting it was in this hour of 
 depression! How soothing in its comforts, and how dear that old com- 
 missary car beckoned and welcomed us in its old familiar unpretentious 
 manner! It was like stepping from the Pacific coast into home. And 
 it was "home" for wasn't it the place "where we used to live ?" 
 
 There stood "Woodzie," Johnston and the grinning porters, glad and 
 anxious to receive us. It was like meeting an old-time friend for us to 
 greet the interior of our "Special." Every seat we gazed upon seemed 
 to speak out some pleasant reminiscence. Finally, after placing our hand 
 baggage, we gathered within the walls of the dear old commissary car, 
 and with Johnston as a most agreeable audience, we sang we sang a 
 fond adieu to 'Frisco and the Twenty-ninth Triennial Conclave, and to the 
 hope of future happiness and equal pleasures, such as we had enjoyed on 
 our tour. 
 
 Promptly at 9 o'clock we moved out of the station for a short ride to 
 San Jose, passing innumerable small but interesting towns en route, and 
 stopping at Burlingame, San Mateo, Belmont, Menlo Park and Palo Alto 
 before reaching our destination, shortly before noon. 
 
 The route lies through the attractive and prolific Santa Clara Valley, 
 whose heavy laden orchards, beautiful vineyards, and even climate the 
 year round, have given it universal fame. The industries, social condi- 
 tions and natural scenes are wholly uneffected by the slightest touch of 
 the commonplace, and as charming as they are novel, offer a rich field 
 for study and enjoyment. 
 
 Burlingame, our first stop, is a playground for San Francisco's most 
 wealthy. It shelters a country club with expansive game preserves, and 
 well-appointed cottages, and is the scene of many coaching meets, paper 
 chases, hunts and polo games. 
 
 San Mateo, older and more sedate, is noted for its educational insti- 
 tutions and as being the center of a rich and prosperous orchard and 
 vineyard region. Belmont is located near the mountains, whose contigu- 
 ous slopes, heights and canyons, afford picturesque sites for the elegant 
 country homes, which comprise the town. Menlo Park is also a com- 
 munity made up of the country homes of rich San Francisco citizens, and 
 has been- aided in its natural beauty by artificial parks, lawns and culti- 
 vated grounds. 
 
 Palo Alto or "tall tree," takes its name from a redwood tree near the 
 railway, and is located in a wide-streching forest of oaks, which was 
 reared largely as an adjunct to the noted Leland Stanford, Jr., University. 
 This is one of the greatest educational endowments in America, having 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 197 
 
 a fund of over $30,000,000, the gift of Senator and Mrs. Leland Stan- 
 ford, in memory of their only son. The buildings, in a manner, repro- 
 duce the architecture of the ancient Spanish Mission. The arrange- 
 ment is quadrangular; the inner line of buildings one story, and the 
 outer two stories high, inclose a vast court richly ornamented with 
 statuary, plants, flowers and fountains. 
 
 A stately arch opens into the court, while an arcade, one mile in 
 length, faces the court, and forms a continued covered passage-way 
 entirely around it. The buildings are of yellow buff sand-stone, sur- 
 mounted by red-tiled roofs, and this color combination in the Moorish 
 architectural design, picturesquely contrasting with the oaks and 
 eucalyptus trees, and the many tropical plants gives the group of 
 buildings an interesting Oriental aspect. The Palo Alto estate of 
 8,000 acres, is one of the great California stock-farms. 
 
 In the center of Santa Clara Valley nestles the city of San Jose, 
 called the "Garden City" for its profusion of flowers. Though but 50 
 miles from San Francisco, the climate differs, because of a great differ- 
 ence in topography. In summer, San Jose is free from the fogs and winds 
 of San Francisco, while in the winter, instead of the soft balminess of the 
 Golden Gate City, the air of San Jose has a frosty touch. Fruits from 
 the rich vineyards and great apricot, prune, olive and almond orchards of 
 the valley are brought into San Jose for shipment and distribution, while 
 the city is the center in the production of prunes and cured fruits. 
 
 Three miles from San Jose is Santa Clara, the two being connected 
 by the famous Alameda, or shaded drive. Alum Rock, a noted pleasure 
 resort, is one of the suburban attractions and is reached by a six mile trol- 
 ley ride. 
 
 The Calaveras Mountains are to the eastward, and here, on the apex 
 of Mount Hamilton, 26 miles southeast, is the world-famed Lick Obser- 
 vatory, at 4200 feet elevation. It was founded by a legacy of $750,000 
 left by James Lick, of San Francisco, and is attached to the University 
 of California, being among the leading observatories of the world. It 
 has one of the largest and most powerful refracting telescopes in ex- 
 istence; the object glass being 36 inches in diameter. Mr. Lick is 
 buried in the foundation pier of the great telescope which he erected. 
 
 Not alone is a view of the skies through this monster telescope im- 
 pressive, but that afforded the naked eye from the summit of the mount 
 is one of the most expansive imaginable. The Observatory is exceptionally 
 well located; its white buildings shining in the sunlight are seen from 
 afar. 
 
 Near the San Jose railroad station we came upon an opposition 
 observatory, conducted by a traveling astronomer who graciously per- 
 mitted the public to peep into the mysteries of the skies through a "short- 
 sighted" telescope, at 5 cents a peep. Several members of our party 
 
198 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 peeped through the glass. Sir David claimed he had discovered another 
 Conclave in the metropolis of the sun, on a spot where that orb seemed 
 to shine the brightest. 
 
 Sir Sample, who is a student of the sciences, asked whether Saturn, 
 or Lillian Russell was the greatest star, but the astronomer was forced 
 to admit that the full records of both were not at hand. Schwerd 
 then pointed the telescope eastward, in an effort to learn if everything 
 was all right at home ; he declared that the glass was not sufficiently pow- 
 erful to penetrate the Rocky Mountains. Besides, he said, the wind was 
 "agin him." He felt sure, however, that he could see the smoke. 
 
 "The sun cannot be examined through an ordinary telescope with 
 impunity," explained Sir David to the other sky-students. "I know of one 
 man who tried it and he is now wearing a glass eye that cost him $7.00." 
 
 "There are many theories regarding the black spots," announced Sir 
 Sample, "authorities differ on their solution. My theory is, that they 
 either represent open-air caucauses of the colored race, or coal mines. 
 However, if I could get a little closer to it, I might speak more definitely." 
 
 "The sun gives indication of endorsing American patriotism," de- 
 clared Schwerd, "for it is like the 'Star Spangled Banner.' 'By the 
 dawn's early light,' and the moon 'is a proof through the night,' that 'it 
 is still there.' " 
 
 "It is said," he continued, "that the luminous body is 92,000,000 
 miles from McKees Rocks although there were mornings last winter 
 that made it seem further away than that. I understand that the direct 
 road is paved and sewered all the way, and lined with cement pavements 
 and shade trees but do not misunderstand me ! There are no plan of lots 
 for sale ! You may therefore gaze upon it with the assurance that no one 
 will try to force an 'easy-weekly-payment' scheme upon you." 
 
 During the afternoon we took a pleasant six mile trolley ride to Alum 
 Rock. While prospecting in the vicinity Sirs Gilchrist, Sample and Wat- 
 son reported that they found a fallen meteor, weighing 20 tons. Ordi- 
 narily, the action of alum water is to contract, even the truth but 
 that is getting away from the story. The veracity of the discoverers 
 was never questioned, although Sir Greenawalt would not under- 
 stand how the three explorers managed to weigh the 20 ton meteor, 
 having no scales in their possession. 
 
 Returning to San Jose, we visited the city jail (solely a voluntary 
 act). The prisoners were in plain view, being separated only by bars. 
 Most of the inmates were dejected objects of humanity, gathered up in 
 the walks of life walks along the railroad tracks. Nearly all were 
 tramps, and like other "natural products," there is a heavy crop through 
 the agricultural districts of California. San Jose is not only a great 
 center for the curing of fruits, but for the curing of tramps as well. 
 Hence the jail and the patronage. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 199 
 
 Across the Coast Range or mountains, eastward from San Jose, is 
 the extensive San Joaquin Valley, noted as the "granary of California," 
 200 miles long and 30 to 70 miles wide, between the mountain ranges. 
 It produces almost limitless crops of grain, fruits and wines. Through 
 this great valley San Joaquin River flows northward, and the Sacramento 
 River southward, in another valley as spacious, and uniting they go out 
 westward to San Francisco Bay. We were told that in the days when 
 the earth was forming, the sea waves beat against the slopes of Sierra 
 Nevada, but ultimately the waters receded, leaving the floor of this vast 
 valley of central California stretching nearly 500 miles between the 
 mountain ranges. 
 
 The first comers among the white men dug gold out of its soil, but 
 now they also get an enormous revenue from the prolific crops. Railways 
 traverse it in all directions. The chief city is Stockton, at the head of 
 navigation on the San Joaquin, a town of 25,000 people, having numerous 
 factories. Here, in the slopes and gulches of the Sierras, stretching far 
 away, were the first gold-mines of California, when the discoveries of the 
 "Forty-niners" set the world agog. At Jackson, was tapped the famous 
 "Mother Lode," the most continuous and richest of the three gold belts 
 extending along the slopes of the Sierras, and so-called by the early miners 
 because they regarded it as the parent source of all gold found in the 
 placers. This lode is in some parts a mile wide, and extends a hundred 
 miles, being here a series of parallel fissures filled with gold-bearing 
 quartz-veins while farther south they unite in a single enormous fissure. 
 The mineral belts paralleling it on both sides are rich in copper and gold. 
 The country all about is a mining region with prolific "diggings" every- 
 where, and smoke arising from the stampmills at work reducing the 
 ores. There is Tuttletown and Jackass Hill, the home of "Truthful 
 James," and the localities made familiar by Bret Harte and Mark 
 Twain. There is Carson Hill, here having been picked up on its sum- 
 mit the largest gold-nugget ever found in California, worth $47,000. 
 As the San Joaquin Valley is ascended, it develops its wealth of grain- 
 fields, orchards and vineyards and displays the grand systems of irriga- 
 tion, which has contributed to produce so much fertility. 
 
 Eastward from San Joaquin Valley are the famous groves of Big 
 Trees, the gigantic sequoias, which Emerson has appropriately called the 
 "Plantations of God." There are two forests of giants in Calaveras and 
 Mariposa counties displaying these enormous trees, of which it is sig- 
 nificantly said that some were growing when Christ was upon earth. The 
 Calaveras Grove, the northermost, is at an elevation of 4,700 feet above 
 the sea, upon a tract about two-thirds of a mile long and 200 feet wide, 
 there being a hundred large trees and many smaller. The tallest tree 
 standing is the "Keystone State," 325 feet high and 45 feet in circum- 
 
200 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 ference. The "Mother of the Forest," denuded of its bark, is 315 feet 
 high and 61 feet girth, while the "Father of the Forest," the biggest of all 
 is prostrate, and measures 112 feet in circumference. There are two 
 trees 300 feet high, and many exceeding 250 feet, the bark sometimes 
 being a foot and a half thick. This grove, however, being less conven- 
 ient, is not so much visited as the Mariposa Grove to the southward. It 
 is in Mariposa (the butterfly) county, at 6,500 feet elevation, and near 
 the Yosemite Valley. The tract of four square miles is a State Park, 
 there being two distinct forests a half-mile apart. The lower grove has 
 a hundred fine trees, the largest being the "Grizzly Giant," of 94 feet cir- 
 cumference and 31 feet diameter, the main limb, at 200 feet elevation, 
 being over six feet in diameter. The upper grove contains 360 trees, and 
 the road between the groves is tunnelled directly through one of them, 
 which is 27 feet in diameter. Through this living tree, named "Wawona/ 
 the stage-coach drives in a passage nearly ten feet wide. These trees 
 are not so high as in Calaveras Grove, but they are usually of larger 
 girth. The tallest is 272 feet, ten exceed 250 feet, and three are over 90 
 feet in circumference, while 20 are over 60 feet. Many of the finest 
 have been marred by fires. There are eight groves of these Big Trees 
 in California, these being the chief. 
 
 Into the San Joaquin flows Merced River, coming from the eastward 
 down out of the Sierras through the famous Yosemite Valley. 
 
 The high Sierras have been termed the American Alps, and merit 
 the appellation. Here are snowy peaks that meet the sky along a thousand 
 miles of the California border, and crowning all, Mount Whitney, the 
 loftiest peak in the United States. 
 
 There are in this Sierra region mighty evergreen forests, groves of 
 the greatest and grandest trees in the world, the Canyons of Kings and 
 Kern Rivers, Lassen Buttes, the Minarets, and numerous other wonders. 
 Among them all, however, Yosemite is the best known. It lies due east of 
 San Francisco at an elevation of 4,000 feet, and is reached from Merced 
 (a town on the Santa Fe in the San Joaquin Valley) by stage ride of 
 about 90 miles. The way is by Merced Falls, the picturesque old-time 
 mining town of Coulterville and the Merced Grove of Big Trees. The 
 monster trees are from 25 to 30 feet in diameter at base and are of fabu- 
 lous age. 
 
 The floor is a parklike tract about eight miles long by half a mile to 
 a mile wide. The Merced River frolics its way through this mountain 
 glade and around its imperious walls thousands of feet high. 
 
 As you enter, mighty El Capitan rears its monumental form 3,200 
 feet at your right. It is a solid mass of granite taller than the valley is 
 wide at this point and presenting two perpendicular faces. On the other 
 hand Bridal Veil Fall is flinging cascades of lacelike delicacy from a 
 height of 950 feet, and in the far distance you catch a glimpse of the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 201 
 
 famed Half Dome, Washington Columns and the crests of the highest 
 peaks in the range. 
 
 The road leads on beyond Cathedral Spires, Three Brothers and 
 Sentinel Rock, the valley widens and Yosemite Falls appear, with the 
 Sentinel Hotel and the little village at the stage terminus, midway between 
 the falls and Glacier Point opposite. 
 
 Beyond Glacier Point the valley angles sharply, and in the recess thus 
 formed Vernal, Nevada, and Illiloutte Falls, Liberty Cap and Mount 
 Broderfck are located, but are not visible from the hotel. 
 
 Looking east, Half Dome presents an almost perpendicular wall; 
 at its base is Mirror Lake, and, opposite, North Dome and Washington 
 Arches. The peak of Half Dome is 4,737 feet above the valley floor, and 
 8,737 feet above the sea. 
 
 The roads and trails have been constructed by and have heretofore 
 been kept in repair by the state. The entire Yosemite National Park is 
 now under control of the United States Government. 
 
 You may visit both the base and the lip of Nevada Falls, poise in 
 mid-air from the overhanging rock at Glacier Point, gaze 4,000 feet 
 below from a parapet of Three Brothers or off to the wilderness of 
 peaks that lose themselves in the sky to the eastward ; or you may pitch 
 pebbles into the gushing torrent of Yosemite Falls where it makes its 
 dizzy leap over the cliff. 
 
202 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 The glory of Yosemite has passed into literature. It lends to word- 
 painting as do but few of Nature's masterpieces. Only for those who have 
 seen, can the name conjure up visions of a waterfall of filmy tracery that 
 bends and sways in the breeze, of a gigantic cliff that stands at the portal 
 a colossal greeting and farewell, of another fall whose waters plunge from 
 a height a half mile above you. 
 
 It were idle to enumerate. No single feature wins admiration. It 
 is the harmonious whole, blending majesty with color, form and action, 
 that wooes all our senses with siren touch. It is not a matter of height or 
 breadth or mere bigness. The Grand Canyon of Arizona outclasses Yose- 
 mite a hundred times over in greatness and other-worldness. But here 
 Nature is truly feminine ; she is tender, gracious and becomingly gowned ; 
 she puts on little airs ; she is in the mood of comradeship. For here are 
 found song birds, gorgeous wild flowers, rippling streams, grassy parks 
 and bowers of shrubbery and ferns. These, quite as much as the beetling 
 crag or stupendous waterfall, are the secret of Yosemite's hold on the 
 imagination. It is this sense of the supremely beautiful incarnated which 
 makes the Yosemite. 
 
 After a brief expedition through the principal streets of San Jose 
 and a visitation to the fruit curing establishments we were ready to de- 
 part. Reaching the station, we abandoned our "Special" for a time, and 
 boarded a train on the narrow gauge railroad, bound for "Big Trees" 
 station 28 miles distant. 
 
 For several miles out of San Jose we passed through a succession of 
 apricot, prune, and almond orchards; while fruits of all kinds abounded 
 on every side. At Los Gatos we entered the Santa Cruz Mountains, and 
 the magnificent forests of California were upon us. Redwoods, oak, 
 madrones, laurel and pines blanket the slopes and crown the summits. 
 The trees are magnificent and majestic, and yet this is not the only 
 section whose trees have made California a household word the big 
 tree groves of California are scattered throughout the forest reserves 
 and many national parks of the Sierras. 
 
 It was early in the evening when we arrived at "Big Tree" station 
 and with the knowledge that we had but a short time to stay, the pilgrims 
 made a rush for the Big Tree grove. We were surprised to find the 
 "giants" corraled within a high fence, while an industrious young man 
 was anxiously awaiting us at the gate with outstretched hand 1 to get 
 some of our money. This came as a surprise to us, inasmuch as no ad- 
 mission charge is made at any of the other parks throughout the state. 
 Meeting the "holdup" agreeably, we entered the grove and began hurry- 
 ing through as many of the redwoods as our scant time allowance 
 would permit. 
 
 A most impressive sight is offered to the eye and soul by these 
 monster trees, huddled together within the confines of this 2O-acre grove. 
 
YOSEMITE VALLEY-BIG TREE GROVES-SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 T Overhanging Rock, Yosemite Valley. 2 Merced River, in the Yosemite Valley. 3 Yosemite Valley. 4 Yosemite Falls, s 
 Entrance to the Yosemite Valley. 6 Washington Column and Dome, Yosemite Valley. 7-8-3-10-11-12-13 The California Big Trees. 
 14 Memorial Chapel. Leland Stanford Jr. University. Cal. 15 Lick Observatory in Winter, Mt. Hamilton, Cal. 16 Leland Stanford 
 University, in Santa Clara County. 17 San Jose, Cal. 18-19-20 Mount Hamilton and the Lick Observatory. 21 Alum Rock Park, 
 San Jose, Cal. 22-23-24-25-26-27 Scenes at San Jose, Cal. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 203 
 
 Trees 10 to 20 feet in diameter are plentiful, and all tower into the very 
 skies, hundreds of feet above. Doorways and driveways had in many 
 instances been cut through the base of the trees, but these niches in no 
 wise impeded their growth or verdure. One particularly massive tree 
 had been hollowed out, and bore doors and windows, giving evidence 
 that it was once inhabited, and a legend says that a child was bora within 
 its trunk. The whole grove was Fremont's old camping-ground, during 
 the Mexican war. 
 
 During the little while it was our privilege to remain in the grove, 
 the beauty, grandeur and wonder of the scene was most impressive. The 
 long aisles of stately columns rising straight and true to dizzy heights, 
 and losing themselves in their crown of misty foliage, with only the 
 flickering light of the sky separating one column from the other, was a 
 sight more beautiful than can be conceived. There is no grander sunlight 
 than the sunlight which plays through these massive redwoods, cedars 
 and pines. No sky seemed so beautiful as the sky that glistened here 
 and there between the broad trunks, of this large, overgrown family. 
 
 Few, if any, of the trees bore branches or boughs until they attained 
 a height of 100 feet or more. They seem to concentrate their efforts in 
 growing straight and upright lives, ever heavenward, and then in mighty 
 and final effort throw out their arms in homage to their Maker. One 
 cannot, with any degree of justice, describe these noble woods. Nor can 
 one properly acknowledge by word, the feeling that inspires the onlooker. 
 A deep sense of contentment interblends with one of buoyancy and 
 boyish gladness, while withall, a feeling of remoteness and isolation 
 from the work-day world pervades the mind. 
 
 As one stands within the rich cathedral gloom, cast by the shadows 
 of these massive steeples, the mind reflects upon the dignity and meaning 
 of it all. For these trees are the oldest living things on earth! Their 
 records, which they themselves inscribe from year to year, around their 
 hearts, prove them to be centuries, yea, thousands of years old. How 
 often have they been used as an altar to their Maker ; how many human 
 generations have, under their shady branches differently pronounced' the 
 name of God, but who recognized him everywhere in His works, and 
 adored Him in His manifestations. They stood to witness the birth of 
 Christ; they have seen nations rise and fall; they have known races of 
 which we have never learned ; they have heard the chanting and prayer 
 of religious creeds innumerable, and in their great, deep and unbreakable 
 silence, keep their secrets well. 
 
 The most weird and enchanting effect is that produced by the 
 diffused light of the late afternoon sun, when no ray is strong enough to 
 pierce the heavy foliage. The diffused light, in its effort to gain admis- 
 sion, takes color from the moss and leaves, and enters the forest like 
 faint, green-tinted mist and spreads the theatrical fire of a fairyland. The 
 
204 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 suggestion of mystery, and the supernatural effect, which haunts the 
 forest at all times, is greatly intensified by this unearthly glow. 
 
 The redwood trees, which are numberless in the Santa Cruz 
 Valley, will not thrive outside of the state of California, and only in a 
 limited belt in that state. Soil conditions, abundance of oxygen and ozone> 
 and an ocean breeze, seems essential. The wood is rich red in color, of 
 even grain, almost free from knots, and has wonderful lasting properties. 
 
 It is said, that there is no pitch, turpentine, volatile nor inflammable 
 properties in the wood, and that houses built of it are rarely destroyed 
 by fire. 
 
 The fireproof qualities of this wood impressed Sir Flechsig so strong- 
 ly that he decided to appeal to the government with a novel suggestion. 
 As paper is now made from wood, he concluded that it might be advisable 
 to have bank note paper made from red wood, so that the public need 
 have no fear of "burning up" their money. Meanwhile, Sir Schulze was 
 figuring out another theory intended to be beneficial to man. Both 
 gentlemen were inspired by their surroundings. Sir Oscar looked long 
 at the tree which had been hollowed out for use as a house, and which still 
 grew ; and from this he deducted the idea, that if a young redwood were 
 transplanted into a city, and hollowed out as a hut, it would grow into a 
 magnificent skyscraper within a century, and what an enormous per- 
 centage of interest would be the return. 
 
 It was unpleasant to contemplate leaving these natural monuments 
 to the universe. They not only have a vegetable force that gives them 
 eternal life, but even a soul that gives them wisdom and foresight, similar 
 to the instincts of animals and the intelligence of men. They know the 
 seasons of the year, and know in advance, when to expect them. They 
 move their enormous branches according to their fancy, and change their 
 dress and clothe themselves in different hues to suit the season and oc- 
 casion. They take root far down in the depths of the earth where all 
 other prolific vegetation dies. 
 
 While we were thus soliloquizing there came the clang of the loco- 
 motive bell, urging us to return to the train. All sentiment instantly be- 
 came dispelled, and there was a merry clatter of feet in the forest as we 
 ran for the gate. The ladies, however, tarried long enough to gather 
 pieces of bark as a lasting, material remembrance of our visit ; although 
 the impressions gained, will in themselves, prove lasting souvenirs. 
 
 The trip to Santa Cruz was a short one. Here our "Special" awaited 
 us. The same feeling of contentment and delight at meeting an old 
 friend overcame us, for our "home on wheels" had come over another 
 route from San Jose. 
 
 Following dinner we inspected the city, which proved to be prin- 
 cipally a summer resort. The town nestles in a sharp bend on the north- 
 ern shore of Monterey Bay, which is 20 miles wide, thereby insuring- 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO) THE GOLDEN GATE 205 
 
 good bathing, boating, and fishing. Hotels are plentiful and every attri- 
 bute that appeals to the heart of the summer vacationist is provided. In 
 the background are the Santa Cruz Mountains. The town was a Mission 
 founded in 1791. 
 
 We visited Sea Beach Hotel, a fine hostelry standing on an eminence 
 and commanding an excellent view of the bay and the broad, sloping 
 sand beach. Dotting the wide shelving beach were innumerable tents 
 of many hues, where bathers and visitors find shelter from the sun. It 
 was a veritable city of tents, which were perched upon the shore like 
 flocks of sea gulls. 
 
 Neptune Casino is one of the attractive spots at the resort, where 
 music and dancing are nightly in progress. We lingered within its 
 walls a brief time to permit some of the members of our party to engage 
 in "tripping the light fantastic." Two Sir Knights sat nearby and 
 watched the merriment with a furtive glance. They seemed occupied 
 in fanning the young ladies and conversing with them. As the bass viol 
 was bearing on rather hard, the Sir Knights shouted everything they had 
 to say. One of them was talking in a loud and earnest way to a fascinat- 
 ing damsel when the music ceased with a sudden snort, and he was heard 
 to exclaim : "I like to converse with people in whom I take an interest." 
 If the Sir Knight had checked his conversation at the time the music 
 ceased, all might have been well but he didn't. 
 
 During a stroll on the outskirts of town we observed a small wooden 
 structure, from which came forth startling outcries. We stopped to inves- 
 tigate and discovered a colored congregation frantically, but unsucess- 
 fully, trying to outyell the minister. The shepherd of the flock was 
 throwing his arms about in wild excitement, as he paced the floor and 
 loudly shrieked. If he were not black his face would have turned red; 
 and if his face was red it would have turned black. We didn't know 
 what particular denomination the worshippers acknowledged, and we 
 didn't dare to inquire. 
 
 The parson wore a black suit, which from all appearances had been 
 given to him, or he might have found it hanging on a shutter or some 
 backyard fence. It was the best fit, in a misfit, we had ever seen. The 
 coat went away below his knees, and instead of being buttoned, as a 
 double-breasted coat should, he wore it lapped over, and the button-holes 
 were fastened with safety pins from the left shoulder down. An elephant 
 could have stepped into the legs of the trousers, which were also rolled 
 up a foot or more, at the bottom. 
 
 The preacher's discourse was emphatic and he sawed the air like a 
 gladiator. Of course we stood on the outside, and just as it was be- 
 ginning to get interesting. "My dear frens, bredren and sistern," he 
 
 said, "de soul ob de black man am as dear in de sight ob ob ," 
 
 just then someone yelled c-h-i-c-k-e-n ! There was a skirmish, and 
 
206 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 we took "French leave." The local newspapers had an item the fol- 
 lowing morning, with the headline: "Chicken Disrupts Colored Con- 
 gregation." 
 
 We slept a comfortable sleep upon our "Special" that night, for our 
 train was not scheduled to leave until n o'clock in the morning. There 
 were some late arrivals, whom the writer believes were delayed because 
 they desired quiet and lonesome communion with the sad sea waves. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 ERY little of the next morning was devoted to sleep, for we desired 
 to spend all the time possible in sight-seeing. Bathing engaged 
 the attention of the early risers, and later drives were taken over 
 the many fine roads. The town itself is pretty, yet unpretentious. 
 Nearby is located Capitola, also bordering on the bay, and replete with 
 beautiful woodland scenery. There were several unique, natural bridges, 
 in and about Santa Cruz, formed out of solid rock and through which 
 the waters dash. Noel Heights and Beach Hill are eminences in the 
 rear of the town offering excellent viewpoints from which to scan the 
 surrounding country. 
 
 About a half mile from Santa Cruz, on the bay shore, is Twin Lakes, 
 a park owned by California Baptists. Lake Seabright lies on one side of 
 the park and Lake Swan on the other, forming a picturesque resort. 
 Camp-meetings are held here during the summer months. 
 
 While strolling along the beach Sir D. B. Watson and Sir Gilchrist 
 not only encountered several Pennsylvanians, but also came upon a 
 stranded actor from Pittsburgh. How the latter managed to walk so far 
 away from home was a question that mystified the Sir Knights. The 
 tragedian placidly pursued his occupation of fishing from one of the docks 
 and gave" no outward signs of recognition. 
 
 At II 115 o'clock we had all boarded the "Special" and with a clang 
 of the engine bell, and a final "toot-toot," we departed for Del Monte, 
 which we were destined to reach at 3 o'clock in the afternoon. 
 
 Passing through the bayside towns of Capitola and Aptos, we arrived 
 at Parjaro a few moments after the noon hour. Here we were sched- 
 uled to stop 45 minutes, in order to afford the travelers opportunity to 
 secure luncheon. 
 
 Many left the train, going into the town, which was located quite a 
 distance from the station. For some unknown reason, after a stop of 
 about 10 or 15 minutes had been made, the engineer sounded his bell 
 vigorously, giving the signal of readiness to start. Immediately the 
 placid town of Parjaro became the scene of great activity. Sir Knights 
 
MONTEREY AND SANTA CRUZ, CAL. 
 
 I Old Mission Church of El Carmelo. 2 Natural Bridge and Cypress Trees. 3 Old Custom House, 
 Monterey, Cal. 4 Midway Point, near Monterey. s San Carlos Mission. Monterey, Cal. 6 Wave 
 Motor, Santa Cruz, Cal. 7 First Theatre in California, Monterey, Cal. 8 Cliff drive, Santa Cruz. Cal. 9 
 The Waves Break, Pacific Coast, Cal. 10-13 High Waves. Natural Bridge, Santa Cruz, Cal. n Allegheny 
 " Special " leaving Santa Cruz, Cal. 12 Casino and Sea Beach Hotel, Santa Cruz, Cal. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 207 
 
 and ladies were dashing down the road, some of them clung tenaciously 
 to their hamless sandwiches. Others had just begun sipping their soup, 
 when their anticipations were rudely shattered by the sound of the engine 
 bell. None had succeeded in obtaining a meal. 
 
 Just as the last breathless diner reached the car steps, a cloud of dust 
 was seen coming down the road, in the center of which was a black speck. 
 A few moments later we perceived that the oncoming object was a car- 
 riage, and the engineer was prevailed upon to wait a moment, until we 
 could determine what the trouble was every member of our party 
 being accounted for. 
 
 The carriage came to a sudden stop on the opposite side of a large 
 field, which separated the railway from the road. A figure was seen 
 hurriedly alighting, and without an instant's delay, to come rushing across 
 the field at top speed. Hat in hand, he frantically hailed the engineer to 
 wait; but we could not recognize who it was, for he appeared to have 
 something black over his face. Just as he gained the edge of the field, 
 and we felt that we would learn his identity, he made a leap to clear the 
 fence, but unfortunately misjudged the distance, and clung on a picket 
 most ungracefully by the seat of his trousers. Kicking himself free, he 
 landed on earth again, only to trip over a log in his anxiety to catch the 
 train. When he broke the silence with a shriek that forever removed all 
 doubt of identity: "I heered dat bell aringin, an I dun wan to stay in 
 dis 'ere man's country no sah!" 
 
 It was one of our colored porters who had ventured into the town 
 for a luncheon, drank his soup, and had magnanimously hired a car- 
 riage when he heard the call of the engineer. As he came dashing across 
 the field, he looked more like a hired man going after dinner than a 
 porter running away from one. His patrons, who had done much to- 
 wards his support by having him shine their shoes, reached the train by 
 their own locomotion. 
 
 About 2, o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at Del Monte and Mon- 
 terey, both places being in close proximity to one another ; not more than 
 a mile separating them. 
 
 Del Monte is the Garden of Eden of the 2Oth century. It was a 
 spot we had longed to see, and our anticipations sought the idealistic, 
 because of the pictures we had seen of its gorgeous beauty. Contrary 
 to custom, the pictures did not do justice to the original. They were 
 not beautiful enough not fanciful enough they had not told half the 
 story; nor can words accurately portray the wonderful charms of the 
 landscape gardening that is spread over the 200 acres surrounding the 
 Del Monte Hotel. The beauty, which here arrests the eye, is highly 
 picturesque and ever sublime; the admiration keeps a firm hold on the 
 memory long after many other scenes and impressions have faded away. 
 We had seen many marvelous works of Nature established by Nature 
 
208 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 herself, unaided. But here, at Del Monte, we saw the works of Nature 
 aided by the greatest skill that man can command, the best soil the earth 
 can produce, and the most agreeable climate for horticultural splendors. 
 The blending of Nature and art is so complete ; and the grace of garden 
 and lawn, of shrubbery and flower-bed, and shining lake, so fits in with 
 the grace of the wilderness, which nowhere has been lost or marred. 
 
 The short drive from the station to the hotel carries one through the 
 magnificent lawns of the hostelry. It is but the carpet of Nature stretched 
 out in its most magnificent pattern. Floral creations, which are peculiar 
 to the climate, grow in abundance. Here are wondrous live oaks and 
 "green bay trees," like those of Palestine; young specimens of the 
 Sequoia, California big trees, besides shrubs and trees from all lands, the 
 Arizona garden; the maze with its hedges of Monterey cypresses, and 
 its mile of tang-led footpaths. No posy-planted perfume farm of the 
 Rivera could display fields of richer floral beauty than these enchanted 
 gardens. The whole surrounding is bewitching. Every leaf and blade 
 of grass appears to have been brushed, watered, and trimmed every day. 
 Surely the hedges and floral designs were shaped and measured, and their 
 symmetry preserved by the most architectural of gardeners and civil 
 engineers, or some one else exceptionally competent to measure dis- 
 tances without fault. Surely the stately rows of trees that divide the 
 beautiful landscape, the shrubs, the flowers and the leaves, were trained 
 in their growth, and found their places in the beautifully impressive pic- 
 ture, by the use of the plum, level and the square. How else are these 
 marvels of symmetry, beauty and order attained? There is not a fence 
 nor wall to interfere with Nature's own growth. There is no dust, rub- 
 bish, or decay within sight nothing that could possibly suggest neglect. 
 All is orderly, beautiful and fascinating, with a charm that rarely abounds 
 elsewhere than in the childish ideal of fairyland, or the mature impres- 
 sions of a Paradise. 
 
 Reaching the magnificent hotel, which enjoys the patronage of the 
 ultra-fashionable, as well as the casual traveler, we at once entered upon 
 a sight-seeing expedition. 
 
 One of the most attractive drives in California is known as the 
 "Seventeen-mile Drive," which leads from Hotel Del Monte over beauti- 
 ful, smooth, and dustless macadamized roads. Several members of our 
 party took this drive in part. The path winds around Monterey penin- 
 sula, passing the Junipero Serra Monument, and the spot where the old 
 Padre and his followers knelt in worship more than a century ago. It 
 passes through Pacific Grove and skirts the bayshore beneath thousand- 
 year-old cypress trees, and offers, at times, a panoramic view of Monterey 
 and the bay, with Fremont's peak in the distance. 
 
 A short visit to the old, half-Spanish town of Monterey, offered 
 scenes of the quaintest interest. Monterey was the first capital of Cali- 
 
SCENES AT DEL MONTE, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 PICTURESQUE PARKS AND GROUNDS OF THE 'HOTEL DEL MONTE. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 209 
 
 fornia, in the earliest period of Spanish rule, and it was here, in the old 
 adobe house in 1847, tnat General Fremont raised the first American 
 flag ever sent to the California breeze. The town is a curious mixture 
 of modern architecture and ancient tile-roofed adobe houses of early 
 Spanish days. The old Custom House, erected in 1822, is pointed out 
 to visitors as one of the curiosities, as well as the old whaling station; 
 the old adobe where Jenny Lind once sang ; the rose arbor where General 
 Sherman made love ; and Colton Hall, where California's first legislature 
 met. The streets are crooked and narrow, and were originally trails. 
 
 Near Monterey is Pacific Grove, and the old mission of Carmel which 
 was established in 1771. Hotel El Carmelo, named after the mission, 
 entertains visitors to Pacific Grove. A visit can be made to Lighthouse 
 Point and the Ord Barracks, named for Major General E. O. C. Ord, one 
 of the largest and most important military points in the United States. 
 
 On the bayshore, at Monterey, visitors are provided with glass-bot- 
 tom boats similar to those which have made the Catalina Islands famous. 
 The center of these boats are equipped with glass, and the passengers, 
 seated about, and leaning over a rail provided for the purpose, look 
 through the glass and down into the very bottom of the bay. The waters 
 are very clear and peculiarly magnifying. Every pebble on the bottom of 
 the bay can be clearly seen, while the many peculiar species of sea weed, 
 and the countless number of novel and well known fish, make the trip a 
 highly entertaining and interesting one. 
 
 With keen appetites, encouraged by the breezes of Monterey bay and 
 the invigorating climate of the island, we made application at Hotel Del 
 Monte for dinner. From the wide verandas riotous roses clambered to 
 offer a welcome shade, while the interior of the hotel, and the dining halls, 
 were all that a blending of splendor and comfort could make them. 
 
 The menu was a most elaborate one, and on a par with the best 
 offered in high class hotels of the larger cities, and superior to many of 
 them. During dinner, a competent orchestra furnished delightful music. 
 
 Among diversions provided for the hotel guests are : athletic sports 
 of various kinds, coaching, racing, tennis, basket-ball, football, golf, polo, 
 bathing, rowing, sailing and other outdoor amusements. The Club 
 House, with its billiard rooms and bowling alleys, and the Bathing Pavil- 
 ion and Sun Tower afford other methods of recreation, while informal 
 dances in the ball rooms, concerts, and other entertainment, for which 
 elaborate preparations are made, provide indoor pastime in the evening. 
 
 Following our most satisfying repast, we engaged in many of the 
 
 diversions offered, until the hour set for our departure. We were so 
 
 fascinated by the enchanting gardens that we utilized the opportunity to 
 
 stroll among the maze of flowers and shrubs a quiet row on Laguna del 
 
 (14) 
 
210 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 Rey, the lake upon the grounds, over which the swan and sea fowl grace- 
 fully disport in idle beauty among the lily pads. 
 
 Sir John Bader was the most sought-after man in the party that 
 evening. With his training as a florist, (for that is his vocation) he alone 
 was in possession of the identity of the wonderful blooms and flowers 
 that were so strange to us, and so foreign to our home climate. Sir 
 Bader was ready to provide the Latin term for every shrub. However, 
 once in possession of the Latin names, we were still in blissful ignorance. 
 
 Finally the hour for departure was at hand. Reluctantly we saun- 
 tered to the station. Here we met delegations of the Washington, Bal- 
 timore and Philadelphia Commanderies, who were also outward bound. 
 In an instant the spirit of good fellowship prevailed with marked enthu- 
 siasm, the hills re-echoing with laughter and song. There was but a 
 short time to wait for our respective trains. During the interval, a very 
 informal entertainment was unanimously agreed upon, wherein everyone 
 was compelled to make a speech, tell a story, or sing a song. There were 
 so many in the gathering, that it became necessary to have several speech- 
 es made and a number of songs sung at the same time ; but this did not 
 appear to detract from the entertainment. Old and young were included 
 in the talent, and the few moments spent at Del Monte station, awakened 
 the hills with the echoes of laughing, chattering, song and frolic. 
 
 Our "Special" was the first to leave the station. We had gone but 
 a short distance down the track when our train came to a stop. Many 
 of the ladies and older folks had retired for the night, while the com- 
 missary car delegation was still awake very widely awake. 
 
 We had not stopped long, when another train was heard coming 
 down the track. It drew up to a stop on a track directly opposite us, 
 and proved to be the "Special" of one of the other delegations. All was 
 quiet aboard, windows were curtained and silence prevailed. A moment 
 later another "Special" drew up, and stopped on the track on the other 
 side of our "Special." As was the case with the first train, all was quiet 
 aboard. 
 
 Realizing that the delegations on board the other trains were endeav- 
 oring to go to sleep, the commissary car chorus felt called upon to render 
 a serenade, for they had been told in every state through which they had 
 passed, that their singing "would put anyone to sleep." The truth of 
 this was refuted, however, for when the chorus struck up, and several 
 of our musicians played a vigilant accompaniment on the windows of the 
 two trains, there were many signs of an awakening among our Praters. 
 
 Curtains were slowly raised along the two lines of cars. Heads 
 were seen to tilt sideways to ascertain the cause of the tumult, and finally, 
 realizing that it was not an attack by hostile forces, the windows were 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 211 
 
 raised, and a tirade of wit and humor flew thick and fast, with the Alle- 
 gheny "Special" as the center of a double fire. 
 
 The final parting came, as the trains started in earnest for their des- 
 tinations, and with a rousing farewell cheer, we went our way. Our 
 "Special" rode throughout the night and brought us to Santa Barbara on 
 the following morning. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 HERE was much joviality in the "stag" coach and commissary car 
 until the night began to fade into morning. It was past mid- 
 night when we reached the town of Paso Rubles, and when San 
 Luis Obispo was passed at 3 o'clock, there were none awake but 
 the engineer and a few of the train crew. 
 
 From San Luis Obispo to Santa Barbara the railroad passes through 
 a varied country. Cutting across the valley, it spans divides, follows 
 ravines, circles mountains, delves into hills, until it reaches Surf, a town 
 on the rocky shore of the ocean front. From Surf southward, the route 
 lies along the ocean for 100 miles, with points of interest scattered liber- 
 ally enroute. 
 
 It was early in the morning, Sunday, September n, when the sleep- 
 ing pilgrims were suddenly aroused by the persistent and urgent calls 
 of one who impatiently paced the aisles, shouting at the top of his voice : 
 "Sunday barber! Sunday barber! Sunday barber! in such rapid succes- 
 sion, that without exception, every one of the sleepers believed the in- 
 truder to have called "Santa Barbara," inasmuch as that was our des- 
 tination. 
 
 Sir Aeberli who gave this misleading cry, did so purposely in an 
 effort to insure an early breakfast. As had been the custom he was pre- 
 viously chosen by lot, to serve as barber on that day, and took the oppor- 
 tunity, (it being Sunday) to persistently announce: "Sunday barber," 
 leading the sleepers to believe they had either overslept, or that the train 
 was running several hours ahead of its schedule. There was a quick 
 outpouring from the berths, after which a vigorous search was made for 
 Sir Aeberli, who in some manner managed to make his escape into the 
 furthermost recesses of the commissary car. However, as a result, there 
 was an early breakfast on board the train that morning. 
 
 It was 9:30 o'clock when we reached Santa Barbara. The bells of 
 the famous Santa Barbara Mission were tolling. We knew not whether 
 
212 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 we were being serenaded, or invited to the mission, for if the invitation 
 was a general one, it must be taken for granted that the residents of 
 Santa Barbara are somewhat dilatory in responding, considering the 
 length of time the mission bells were rung. We immediately engaged 
 carriages and drove through the town and suburbs. 
 
 Santa Barbara with its 10,000 inhabitants, is situated as a rectan- 
 gular parallelogram in that angle of the California coast, where the shore 
 line bends like an elbow at Point Concepcion and trends towards the 
 sunrise. Ribbed and stayed with parallel and transverse mountain ranges, 
 broken and diversified by smiling and sunlit valleys, washed by the sea 
 on both southern and western shores, it is interesting and attractive. Its 
 southern shore constitutes the only considerable east and west trend of 
 coast on the western shore of the United States, hence it is the only shore 
 line in all this western land that faces the sun. 
 
 The city of Santa Barbara is situated in the most sheltered nook 
 on this east and west trend of coast. With a southerly exposure, over- 
 looking the warm waters of the Santa Barbara channel, and protected 
 from all chilling winds by the mountain wall of the Santa Yuez range, 
 north of the town. The cooling sea breeze eliminates the heat of sum- 
 mer and flowers bloom, fruits ripen, vegetables grow all the year round. 
 The Bay of Santa Barbara is renowned for its beauty as that of 
 famed Naples, which it so much resembles. From Point Santa Barbara, 
 where the lighthouse stands like a sentinel in white, eastward to Rincon, 
 the shore sweeps in a circle of uniform curve, 15 miles in length, now with 
 wave-lapped sandy shore, then rising into low bluffs that bound oak- 
 dotted mesas. And the waters ripple on this winterless shore as gently 
 as the wavelets on an island lake. 
 
 For yachting and boating the Santa Barbara Channel offers ample 
 sea room, yet so protected by the mountainous island chain on the south 
 and the elevated shore of the mainland on the north, as to be entirely 
 safe at all times. Surf bathing is said to be unexcelled, as the waters 
 are claimed to be free from all undertow. What a field of pleasure for 
 the coming time when the millions that are to throng the Pacific shore 
 shall here find an advantageous and attractive marine playground. 
 
 Island and bay, shore, valley and foothills are not the full assets of 
 Santa Barbara. There are heights and beauties beyond, and the tower- 
 ing Santa Yuez, that, like a mighty wall guards this happy valley from 
 Borea's chilling breath, holds within its canyons, gorges and defiles a 
 never-ending series of delights. Trails lead up to its heights and traverse 
 its summits, and wonder and romance lie along the pathway. 
 
 Across the channel from Santa Barbara are the mountainous islands 
 of San Miguel, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz and Anacapa. Santa Cruz and 
 Santa Rosa contain more than 50,000 acres each, but Santa Cruz is the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 213 
 
 most picturesque owing to its mountainous character, wonderful cav- 
 erns and chambers, which the winds and waves through many ages have 
 hollowed out along the precipitous shores. These caves, in which the 
 ebb and flux of the tide make deep bellowings as though some sea-god 
 were manifesting his displeasure at being disturbed by visitors from 
 the outside world, are of unexplored depths ; and a brave one is he 
 who, after passing beyond the twilight that comes from the outside 
 world, dares venture into the darkness, whose extent can only be sur- 
 mised from the startling echoes that come from apparently unfathom- 
 able recesses. 
 
 Santa Barbara has striking suburban villas and home sites, many 
 of which command fine views from the bluffs, rising to the east and west 
 of the town. Fine roadways make driving a pleasure for these subur- 
 banites. 
 
 Santa Barbara was founded in 1782, and of the old Presido no trace 
 remains save some slight mounds where the walls crumbled away years 
 ago. It stood near the intersection of Santa Barbara and Canon Per- 
 dido streets, and around it in the early days clustered the adobe dwell- 
 ings of the pioneer residents, for it was a frontier garrison of Old Spain, 
 and the Spanish flag floated from its walls. 
 
 This section of the city is still largely inhabited by Spanish-speak- 
 ing people who comprise one-sixth of the population. Here are still 
 found quaint adobe homes, some a century old, which stand in bold 
 contrast to the many modern buildings. The old structures were erected 
 before streets were laid out, and without any regard for the points of 
 the compass. The result is a delightfully haphazard arrangement. 
 
 Of all the memorials of bygone days there is none in the town of 
 equal interest with the mission building, whose gray towers crown the 
 slope upon which the town rests. It is the only mission of more than 
 a score established on the Pacific Coast, in which the daily ministrations 
 of the Franciscan order has not ceased since its founding, and since its 
 inception in 1786 it has been a landmark to the mariner and a point of 
 interest to the traveler. 
 
 We found the mission building to be all that its pictures had im- 
 plied. The impression of grewsomeness and fearsomeness, with which 
 such buildings are always clothed, prevails in all its completeness. The 
 old building is of plain construction on the Moorish order of architecture. 
 Within the gates, and in the garden, were several long-robed, well-fed 
 and prosperous-looking monks. Here and there we saw one with 
 shaven head, coarse robe, rope girdle and strung with beads, and with 
 feet encased in sandals or entirely bare. 
 
 The monks were very accommodating. For a piece of silver they 
 showed us around, and the larger the denomination of the coin pre- 
 sented, the more we saw. Anything from a kind word to a relic of the 
 
214 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 building could be purchased. Pieces of old, rusty iron and keys which 
 it was alleged were used a century ago, were offered for sale; and it 
 is astonishing how the supply holds out, considering that these relics have 
 been sold for years. 
 
 Sir Craig, who purchased an old key from one of the monks, ex- 
 pressed a desire to secure a chain, explaining as he had purchased the 
 key from the monk, he considered it a monk key. It did not take long 
 to supply our party with "relics" and we found greater interest in 
 viewing the grounds and the old building. 
 
 Sir Jack entered the mission and was requested to register. Through 
 force of habit, due to the many hotel stops on our pilgrimage, he 
 handed his umbrella to one of the monks and inquired when dinner 
 would be ready. 
 
 Santa Barbara Mission was long known as the "American Men- 
 tone," because of its similarity to the European resort. A curiosity of 
 the neighborhood is La Parra Grande, or the "Great Vine," which has 
 a trunk four feet in diameter and covers a trellis 60 feet square. Its 
 annual average production is 8,000 pounds of grapes. Many legends 
 are told in connection with the history of the old building. It is said 
 that 6,000 Indians are buried within its walls, and that most of these 
 were the early converts of the Franciscan monks. 
 
 Naturally, the question most asked by tourists who visit the mis- 
 sions of California, is how and why they came to be erected and by whom. 
 The story is an interesting and romantic one and is well told in a lit- 
 tle booklet (California, via the Santa Fe Trail), issued by the Santa 
 Fe railroad, which has been of great value to the writer and is here- 
 with reproduced in part, by the courtesy of the publishers: 
 
 STORY OF THE MISSIONS. 
 
 In the middle of the eighteenth century the Spanish throne, desiring to 
 encourage colonization of its territory of Upper California, then unpeopled 
 save by native Indian tribes, entered into an arrangement with the Order of St. 
 Francis by virtue of which that order undertook to establish missions in the 
 new country which were to be the nuclei of future villages and cities, to 
 which Spanish subjects were encouraged to emigrate. By the terms of that 
 arrangement the Franciscans were to possess the mission properties and their 
 revenues for IO years, which was deemed a sufficient period in which to fairly 
 establish the colonies, when the entire property was to revert to the Spanish 
 government. In point of fact the Franciscans were left in undisputed possession 
 for more than a half century. 
 
 The monk chosen to take charge of the undertaking was Junipero Serra. 
 Seven years before the Declaration of the Independence of the American Colo- 
 nies, in the early summer of 1769, he entered the bay of San Diego, 227 years 
 after Cabrillo had discovered it for Spain and 167 years after it had been sur- 
 veyed and named by Viscaino, during all which preceding time the country 
 had lain fallow. Within two months Serra had founded a mission near 
 the month of the San Diego River, which five years after was removed 
 some six miles up the valley to a point about three miles distant from the pres- 
 ent city of San Diego. From that time one mission after another was founded, 
 21 in all, from San Diego along the coast as far north as San Francisco. The 
 more important of these were built of stone and a hard burnt brick that even 
 
SANTA BARBARA, CAL., AND CALIFORNIA MISSIONS. 
 
 1-13 Mission Santa Barbara, founded lj85. 2-6-7-9-11 Gardens of Santa Barbara Mission. 3 Plaza del Mar and 
 Hotel Potter from Los Banos del Mar. 4 Los Banos del Mar. 5 Arlington Hotel and Annex. 8 The Old Mission Bells, 
 ip Mission Dolores, San Francisco. 12 Mission San Buena Ventura, in the city of Ventura. 14 The Santa Cruz Mis- 
 sion, as it appeared when it was in the days of its prime. 15 Carmel Mission, near Monterey. 16 Scene from the Belfry, 
 Santa Barbara Mission. 17 Mission San Carlos Borromeo, erected at Monterey in 1804. 18 San Fernando Mission. 19 
 San Gabriel Mission, seven miles from Los Angeles. 20 Ruins of the Mission at San Juan Capistrano ( has recently been 
 partially restored). 21 Mission San Juan Capistrano. 22 Home of Ramona, Camulos. 23 At Santa Barbara. 24 
 The esplanade at Santa Barbara. 2S Potter Hotel, from the Plaza. 26 Santa Clara Mission and College, Santa Clara, 
 Cal. 27 Among the oil wells, on the beach at Summerland. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 215 
 
 now will turn the edge of the finest trowel. The labor of their construction 
 was appalling. Brick had to be burnt, stone quarried and dressed, and huge 
 timbers for rafters brought on men's shoulders from the mountain forests, some- 
 times 30 miles distant, through rocky canyons and over trackless hills. 
 
 The Indians performed most of this labor, under the direction of the monks. 
 These Indians were tractable, as a rule. Once, or twice at most, they rose 
 against their masters, but the policy of the padres was kindness and forgive- 
 ness, although it must be inferred that the condition of the Indians over whom 
 they claimed spiritual and temporal authority was a form of slavery, without all 
 the cruelties that usually pertain to enforced servitude. 
 
 They were the bondsmen of the padres, whose aim was to convert them 
 to Christianity and civilization, and many thousands of them were persuaded to 
 cluster around the missions, their daughters becoming neophytes in the con- 
 vents, and the others contributing their labor to the erection of the enormous 
 structures that occupied many acres of ground and to the industries of agricul- 
 ture, cattle raising, and a variety of manufactures. There were, after the prim- 
 itive fashion of the time, woolen mills, wood- working and blacksmith shops, 
 and such other manufactories as were practicable in the existing state of the 
 arts, which could be made profitable. 
 
 The mission properties soon became enormously valuable, their yearly 
 revenues sometimes amounting to $2,000,000. The exportation of hides was 
 one of the most important items, and merchant vessels from our own Atlantic sea- 
 board, from England and from Spain, sailed to the California coast for cargoes 
 of that commodity. Dana's romantic and universally read "Two Years Be- 
 fore the Mast," is the record of such a voyage. He visited California more 
 than a half century ago, and found its quaint Spanish-Indian life full of the 
 picturesque and romantic. 
 
 The padres invariably selected a site favorable for defense, commanding 
 views of entrancing scenery, on the slopes of the most fertile valleys, and con- 
 venient to the running water which was the safeguard of agriculture in a 
 country of sparse and uncertain rainfall. The Indians, less warlike in nature 
 than the roving tribes east of the Rockies, were almost universally submissive. 
 If there was ever an Arcadia it was surely there and then. Against the blue 
 of the sky, unspotted by a single cloud through many months of the year, 
 snow-crowned mountains rose in dazzling relief, while oranges, olives, figs, 
 dates, bananas, and every other variety of temperate and sub-tropical fruit which 
 i had been introduced by the Spaniards, ripened in a sun whose ardency was 
 tempered by the dryness of the air into an equability like that of June, while 
 the regularly alternating breeze that daily swept to and from the ocean and 
 mountain made summer and winter almost indistinguishable seasons, then as 
 now, save for the welcome rains that characterize the latter. 
 
 At the foot of the valley, between the mountain slopes, and never more 
 than a few miles away, the waters of the Pacific rocked placidly in the brilliant 
 sunlight or broke in foam upon a broad beach of sand. In such a scene Span- 
 iard and Indian plied their peaceful vocations, the one in picturesque national 
 garb, the other almost innocent of clothing, while over and around them lay an 
 atmosphere of sacredness which even to this day clings to the broken arches 
 and crumbling walls. Over the peaceful valleys a veritable angelus rang. The 
 mellow bells of the mission churches summoned dusky hordes to ceremonial 
 devotion. Want and strife were unknown. 
 
 It is true they had their trials. Earthquakes which have been almost un- 
 known in California for a quarter of a century, were then not uncommon, and 
 were at times disastrous. Rio de los Temblores was the name of a stream de- 
 rived from the frequency of earth rockings in the region through which it flowed; 
 and in the second decade of our century the dreaded temblor upset the 120-foot 
 tower of the Mission San Juan Capistrano and sent it crashing down through 
 the roof upon a congregation, of whom nearly 40 perished. Those, too, were 
 lawless times upon the main. Pirates, cruising the South Seas in quest of 
 booty, hovered about the California coast, and then the mission men stood to 
 their arms, while the women and children fled to the interior canyons with 
 their portable treasures. One buccaneer, Bouchard, repulsed in his attempt 
 upon Dolores and Santa Barbara, descended successfully upon another mission 
 and dwelt there riotously for a time, carousing and destroying such valuables as 
 he could not carry away, while the entire population quaked in the forest along 
 the Rio Trabuco. This was the same luckless San Juan Capistrano, six years 
 after the earthquake visitation. Then, too there were bickerings of a political 
 nature, and struggles for place, after the rule of Mexico had succeeded to that 
 of Spain, but the common people troubled themselves little with such matters. 
 
216 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 The end of the Franciscan dynasty came suddenly with the secularization 
 of the mission property by the Mexican government to replete the exhausted 
 treasuries of Santa Ana. Sadly the monks forsook the scene of their long la- 
 bors, and silently the Indians melted away into the wilderness and the darkness 
 of their natural ways, save such as had intermarried with the families of Spanish 
 soldiers and colonists. The churches are now, for the most part, only decayed 
 legacies and fragmentary reminders of a time whose like the world will never 
 know again. Save only three or four, preserved by reverent hands, where 
 modern worshippers, denationalized and clad in American dress, still kneel and 
 recite their orisons, the venerable ruins are forsaken by all except the tourist 
 and the antiquarian, and their bells are silent forever. There is hardly a more 
 noteworthy name in the annals of California than that of Junipero Serra, and in 
 heroic endeavor there is no more signal instance of absolute failure than his 
 who founded the California missions, aside from the perpetuation of his saintly 
 name. They accomplished nothing so far as can now be seen. 
 
 The descendants of their converts, what few have survived contact with the 
 Anglo-Saxon, have no discoverable worth, and, together with the greater part 
 of the original Spanish population, have faded away, as if a blight had fallen 
 upon them. 
 
 But so long as one stone remains upon another, and a single arch of the 
 missions still stands, an atmosphere will abide there, something that does not 
 come from mountain, or vale, or sea, or sky; the spirit of consecration, it may 
 be; but if it is only the aroma of ancient and romantic associations, the sugges- 
 tion of a peculiar phase of earnest and simple human life and quaint environ- 
 ment that is forever past, the mission-ruins must remain among the most inter- 
 esting monuments in all our varied land, and will amply repay the inconsiderable 
 effort and outlay required to enable the tourist to view them. San Diego, the 
 oldest; San Duis Rey, the most poetically environed; San Juan Capistrano, of 
 most tragic memory; San Gabriel, the most imposing and Santa Barbara, the 
 most perfectly preserved, will suffice the casual sightseer. These also lie com- 
 paratively near together, and are all easily accessible; the first three being lo- 
 cated on or adjacent to the railway line between Los Angeles and San Diego, 
 the fourth standing but a few miles from the first named city, and the fifth be- 
 ing almost in the heart of the famous resort that bears its name. 
 
 Reluctantly will the visitor tear himself from the encompassing charm of 
 their roofless arches and reminiscent shadows. They are a dream of the Old 
 World, indifferent to the sordidness and turbulence of the New; one of the few 
 things that have been spared by a relentless past, whose habit is to sweep the 
 things of yesterday into oblivion. Almost can one hear the echoes of their bells 
 ringing out to heathen thousands the sunset and the dawn. 
 
 Returning from our interesting drive, we visited the beach ; some 
 donned bathing suits and entered the surf while others sought a swim- 
 ming pool nearby. Among the latter were Sirs Reese Tannehill, Wil- 
 liam G. Lee and Robert J. Graham. 
 
 The three pilgrims were equipped with bathing suits at the pool 
 and sought their respective dressing rooms. Shortly after, Sirs Reese 
 and Robert emerged and splashed gracefully about in the pool. Evi- 
 dently Sir Lee's appearance had been delayed. After a patient wait Sirs 
 Reese and Robert became anxious and urgently called: "Hurry up, 
 Bill!" for the hour of our departure was near at hand and the bath 
 had to be a hurried one. But "Bill" never answered. 
 
 Meanwhile, Sir Lee was experiencing a most trying ordeal. The 
 young lady who doled out the bathing suits, had made a grievous error. 
 She had given him a boy's size! With one leg and one arm in the 
 suit, and a portion of it tightly drawrt over his face, Sir Lee was 
 vigorously, but unsuccessfully struggling in his dressing room, while 
 Sirs Tannehill and Graham were urging him to appear. In vain he 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 217 
 
 tried to extricate himself, realizing that train time was approaching and 
 fearing that he would be left behind in the toils of one half of a bath- 
 i:ig suit. 
 
 Meanwhile, Sirs Tannehill and Graham had leisurely finished their 
 bath, believing Sir Lee had withdrawn. The former made in- 
 quiry at the door of Sir Lee's room, and hearing a noise within, entered 
 and rescued their brother Sir Knight from the meshes of the "youth's 
 companion." After completing his dry bath, Sir Lee returned his suit 
 to the lady and inquired if he looked like an infant. "Why I gave you 
 a boy's suit didn't I," she admitted with a smile, "do you want your 
 money back?" "Never mind! I had a turkish bath that was worth the 
 money," replied Sir Lee as he hurried off. 
 
 While the tragedy of Sir Lee's bath was being enacted at the swim- 
 ming pool, a drama of a reverse nature took place on the beach. Sir 
 Biddle, who is very fond of shells, was enjoying himself along the 
 water's edge, gathering all sorts of pretty specimens. He had ac- 
 cumulated a sufficient number to test his carrying ability, when he 
 spied an exceptionally fine one lying a few feet out, where the surf 
 was scarcely a half inch deep. Walking out boldly, Sir Biddle did not 
 observe the playful wave which was stealthily approaching and roll- 
 ing shoreward in a deceptive manner. Eventually he did observe it, 
 but not until it came upon him with such a vigor as to completely en- 
 velop him, and leave standing upon the shore a drenched looking 
 individual. He wrung out his clothes as best he could, and lay in the 
 sun to dry. 
 
 Following luncheon at Hotel Potter, the signal to board the train 
 was given. As the engineer was ready to pull open the throttle, a call 
 to halt was heard, coming from an approaching passenger train. Before 
 we could give our visions play, we heard a laugh then the identity was 
 complete! It was Sir Oscar Schulze and his party. They had heard 
 the call while still at luncheon, immediately ordered a carriage and gave 
 instructions to be driven to the station. There were two stations, and 
 they were hurried to the wrong one, and found another train ready to 
 pull out. Fortunately it was compelled to make a stop at the station 
 where our "Special" had lain in waiting and they realized their mistake 
 in time to hail us and get safely within the fold before we started. There 
 was a general jollification upon finding the "lost" members of our "big, 
 happy family" in which the missing shared with equal enthusiasm as 
 those who had been temporarily bereft. 
 
 The trip from Santa Barbara to Los Angeles was replete with inter- 
 est and offered such scenic diversions as to make the four and one-half 
 hour ride a pleasant one. 
 
 For many miles the train hugged the ocean shore, and for a stretch 
 
of 30 miles we were at the very edge of the water, affording an inter- 
 esting view of sail boats, bathers and the breakers. Passing through 
 Summerland, while skirting the ocean, we were afforded one of the most 
 curious sights the country can produce that of oil wells in the ocean. 
 Marine oil wells, they are called. Derricks are erected out in the water, 
 and stand defiantly as the breakers dash against them. From a distance 
 and to the unacquainted, they give the appearance of being piers for some 
 structure to be erected out over the water. It is said that the oil is of 
 high grade and that little drilling is necessary, because it lies close to 
 the surface. From Summerland station 400,000,000 pounds of crude oil 
 were shipped during the year 1903. 
 
 Sir W. G. Reel, (who is an oil operator) in whose honor we had 
 designated oil as "the Reel thing," was much interested in the marine 
 oil wells. The feat of procuring oil out of water appealed to him as 
 a profitable undertaking, and he declared his intentions of trying it when 
 he arrived home. 
 
 San Buenaventura, or Ventura as it is more commonly called, is an 
 interesting town of 5,000 inhabitants, which we passed before sighting 
 Montalvo, where is located one of the largest beet sugar factories in the 
 world. Nearby is Santa Paula, whose fame lies in its orange, lemon and 
 English walnut groves, while Sespe, a few miles distant, is an oil town. 
 
 Camulos is "the home of Ramona," for it was in the old Del Valle 
 home in this place, that Mrs. Helen Hunt Jackson wrote her famous 
 Indian novel of that name. 
 
 After viewing "the home of Ramona" Johnston gave expression 
 to his feelings and declared that he felt more reconciled to his own birth- 
 place. "Comparin' de house where I wuz born," he said, "I ain't got no 
 reason fur to complain. Ramoney wuz not born in a house as big as I 
 wuz and fur de high tone of front yard and chicken, I'se got 'em faded. 
 De day am not far away dat I'se be more a shinin' light to de literary 
 world as Ramoney ever dreamed What you think Mas'er Herbert?" 
 
 "That's right, Johnston give me a ham sandwich." 
 
 With but rare exception, the entire length of track from Santa Bar- 
 bara to Los Angeles was lined with wild and cultivated flowers, while 
 immense palms kept company with the track most of the way. The 
 effect was delightful, with the restless ocean on one side, and the many- 
 colored flowers and shrubs on the other. 
 
 Reaching Saugus, which is but 25 miles from Los Angeles, we 
 caught sight of the immense olive groves, which comprise several thou- 
 sand acres with more than 100,000 full bearing trees. Entering the San 
 Fernando Valley, not far from the old mission of that name, we pass 
 through many pretty horticultural communities, the way leading quickly 
 to the much-lauded city of fruit, flower and sunny clime; of mountain 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 219 
 
 and shore; land of paradoxes, where winter is the season of bloom and 
 fruitage, and summer is Nature's time for slumber. 
 
 The metropolis of this land of sunshine and productiveness is La 
 Puebla de la Nuestra Senora la Reine de Los Angeles, or "the City of 
 Our Lady, the Queen of the Angels," a lengthy title which was con- 
 ferred during Spanish sovereignty, and which the matter-of-fact Ameri- 
 can very wisely shortened into Los Angeles. It was this city that our 
 "happy family" entered, shortly after 8 o'clock, with a vivid preconcep- 
 tion of the splendors and interest it had to offer. 
 
 Upon our arrival we sought the principal streets, to stroll, to look 
 and to admire. The city was well lighted, not only by electricity pro- 
 vided for that purpose, but also with special illuminations, designed in 
 honor of the visiting Sir Knights, who came from all sections of the 
 country before and after the Conclave. Los Angeles was the first city 
 in the United States to entirely abandon gas for street lighting and re- 
 place it with electricity. Many of the lights are on high masts, and can 
 be seen for miles around, while a distant view of the city at night is 
 impressive. 
 
 There are not many cities in the United States that have had such 
 a remarkable and varied history as Los Angeles, the chief city of South- 
 ern California, and the commercial metropolis of the southwestern cor- 
 ner of the United States. Few cities of this size, moreover, are so well 
 known throughout the length and breadth of this country and abroad. 
 The rapid growth of Los Angeles from an insignificant semi-Mexican 
 town to a metropolitan city has been told and retold, until it is familiar 
 to millions of Americans, the attractions afforded by the city to health 
 seekers, pleasure seekers and tourists have been spread abroad by hun- 
 dreds and thousands of visitors, who, after one trip to this section, are 
 in most cases anxious to return, and frequently become permanent resi- 
 dents. 
 
 During the last 20 years Los Angeles has grown from a population 
 of 11,000 in 1880 to 102,479 by the census of 1900. The present popu- 
 lation is estimated at 150,000. There are three leading features that 
 have contributed to such growth. These are climate, soil and location. 
 Any one of these advantages would be sufficient to build up a large city, 
 but taken together they insure the future of Los Angeles as the metrop- 
 olis of the southwestern portion of the United States. 
 
 Los Angeles was founded on September 4, 1781, by a small band of 
 pobladores, or colonists, who had been recruited in the Mexican States 
 of Simaloa and Sonora, and brought here under command of a govern- 
 ment officer to found an agricultural colony for the purpose of raising 
 produce for the soldiers at the presidios. The first census of the little 
 city taken in 1790 gave the total population as 141. As recently as 1831, 
 
220 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 fifty years after founding the pueblo, the population was only 770. In 
 January, 1847, tne population was 1,500. In 1880 business was dull 
 and there was no sign that the city was on the eve of a marvelous growth. 
 Five years later, on November 9, 1885, the last spike was driven in the 
 Atlantic and Pacific Railway at the Cajon Pass, thus completing a new 
 overland route from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and providing Los An- 
 geles with competition in overland railroad transportation. From that 
 time the growth of the city was wonderfully rapid. The great real estate 
 boom of 1886-7 is a matter of history, as is also the wonderful manner 
 in which Los Angeles held up under the reaction that inevitably followed 
 the collapse of the over speculation of that period. 
 
 Considering that fifteen years ago there was not a single paved street 
 in the city, Los Angeles has made a remarkable progress in street im- 
 provements. There are now about 250 miles of graded and graveled 
 streets, over 20 miles of paved streets, nearly 400 miles of cement and 
 asphalt sidewalk and 175 miles of sewer. Los Angeles has a complete 
 sewer system, including an outfall to the ocean. 
 
 The city possesses the great natural advantage of being situated on 
 the shortest route by the easiest grades, between the Pacific and Atlantic 
 Oceans. The merchants of Los Angeles do a large business with a sec- 
 tion of country extending from the eastern limits of Arizona to Fresno 
 on the north. The principal articles of export are fruits, fresh and 
 dried, potatoes and vegetables, beans, wine and brandy, wool, honey, 
 canned goods, sugar, wheat, corn and barley. 
 
 For a dozen years past Los Angeles has been the scene of great 
 activity in building operations. Scores of fine business blocks and hun- 
 dreds of handsome residences have been built. The value of the build- 
 ings erected in Los Angeles during the year 1903 amounted to over $13,- 
 000,000. The city lies about midway between the Sierra Madre range 
 of mountains and the ocean, and about 300 feet above sea level. The 
 Los Angeles River, which is almost devoid of water during the summer 
 but is sometimes transformed into a torrent for a few days in winter, 
 runs through the city from north to south. In the northern and western 
 portion of the city limits are hills of considerable altitude, from which 
 a magnificent view may be obtained of the surrounding valleys, with the 
 ocean in the distance, the picture being framed on the north by a succes- 
 sion of grand old mountains. 
 
 The southern and southwestern portions of the city are level, with 
 a gentle slope to the southwest. Across the river is the section known 
 as Boyle Heights, a high gravelly table of mesa land. 
 
 There are a dozen public parks within the city limits, aggregating 
 over 600 acres, of which six are of considerable size. Westlake Park, 
 35 acres in area, is one of the most popular open air resorts. It has a 
 
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 9 The 
 om 
 9 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 221 
 
 lake with boats, fine drives and extensive views from the adjacent hills. 
 Eastlake Park in Los Angeles covers 50 acres and has been made quite 
 attractive. Here also is a lake. The park nurseries are located here 
 and also a menagerie. Prospect Park, on Boyle Heights, is a small but 
 beautiful place, with many choice trees and shrubs. The oldest and 
 best improved of the city parks on Sixth street, not far from the busi- 
 ness center, is known as Central Park. The trees have attained a large 
 growth. Hollenbeck Park is a tract of about 20 acres, on the east side 
 of the river on Boyle Heights. It has been improved with shade trees 
 and a small lake. Echo Park, a beautifully improved tract in the north- 
 western part of the city, contains the largest body of water in Los An- 
 geles. Elysian Park, 500 acres in area, is a remnant of thousands of 
 acres of such land that the city formerly owned. Much of the land is 
 within the frostless belt. The views of mountains, valleys and ocean, 
 city and plain are grand in the extreme. Griffith Park, a tract of 3,000 
 acres, was donated to the city. It is located about a mile north of the 
 city, and embraces a varied assortment of mountain, foothill and valley 
 scenery. A boulevard to connect the parks of Los Angeles has been 
 commenced. 
 
 The excellent electric street car system of Los Angeles, which is 
 said to be unexcelled in this country, has done much to encourage the 
 growth of the city. In addition to the lines within the city limits the sys- 
 tem connects with Pasadena, Santa Monica, San Pedro, Redonda, Long 
 Beach and Ocean Park, while plans have been adopted which promise 
 450 miles of suburban electric roads radiating around Los Angeles in all 
 directions. 
 
 After all is said the chief attraction of Los Angeles to new arrivals, 
 lies in its beautiful homes. The rare beauty of the grounds surround- 
 ing the attractive homes of Los Angeles, Pasadena and other Los An- 
 geles county cities is a constant theme of admiration on the part of east- 
 ern visitors. A majority of the residences stand in spacious grounds, a 
 lot of 50x150 feet being the smallest occupied by a house of any preten- 
 sion, even within a stone's throw of the business streets. Many have from 
 one to five acres of ground, all in a high state of cultivation, with well 
 kept verdant lawns, upon which the fig, orange and palm cast a grateful 
 shade. Along the sides of the streets shade trees are also the rule, the 
 favorite varieties being the graceful pepper, which grows to a great size, 
 the eucalyptus and the grevilla. 
 
 The almost universal material for residences in Southern California 
 is woodpine and redwood, the latter being used altogether for outside 
 and largely for inside finish. This material, while amply sufficient for 
 the climate, lends itself to graceful decoration undreamed of to those 
 who have been accustomed to houses of brick and stone. 
 
222 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 The development of the horticultural industry of Los Angeles dur- 
 ing the past few years has been remarkable. The most important horti- 
 cultural product of the county is the orange. Other fruits raised in Los 
 Angeles are the lemon, almond, fig, prune, apricot, walnut, peach, pear 
 and berries. 
 
 The shipment of citrus fruits from Southern California points for a 
 season are estimated at 27,500 carloads. A large portion of these ship- 
 ments are contributed by Los Angeles county. Floriculture is also an 
 important and rapidly growing industry in Southern California. 
 
 The school facilities of Los Angeles are especially good. Besides 
 the complete system of public schools, private schools and colleges 
 abound in Los Angeles, Pasadena and other towns. Most of the leading 
 religious denominations are represented, not only by churches, but also 
 by one or more religious colleges. 
 
 There is not a secret society of any importance that is not repre- 
 sented. Los Angeles society is cosmopolitan, every State in the Union, 
 and almost every country in the world, being numerously represented. 
 
 To find evidences of the old Spanish life one must now seek in the 
 most remote corners of the city. One can find the Spanish quarter, and 
 in it a few unkempt houses and elements of the picturesque. One may 
 find a restaurant or two, in the heart of the city, where English is spoken 
 and broken by dark-skinned girls who stand ready to introduce the pat- 
 rons into the mysteries of chili con carne, frijoles, or tortillas. 
 
 Senores, senoras and senoritas are plentifully encountered upon the 
 streets, but are not in general distinguished by any peculiarity of attire. 
 Upon the borders of the city one finds more vivid types, and there the 
 jacal, a poor mud hovel thatched with straw, is not quite extinct. The 
 words Spanish and Mexican are commonly used in California to distin- 
 guish a racial difference. Not a few of the Spanish soldiery and colo- 
 nists originally took wives from among the native Indians. Their off- 
 spring has had its charms for later comers of still other races, and a com- 
 plexity of mixture has resulted. 
 
 The term Mexican is generally understood to apply to this amal- 
 gamation, those of pure Castilian descent preferring to be known as 
 Spanish. The latter, numerically a small class, represent high types, 
 and the persistency of the old strain is such that the poorest Mexican 
 is to a certain manner born. He wears a contented mein, as if his 
 Diogenes-tub and his imperceptible larder were regal possessions, and he 
 does not easily part with dignity and self-respect. 
 
 Returning from our drive we sought our "Special," which had been 
 side-tracked for the night. During our absence, other Commanderies, 
 with special trains had arrived and soon there was a large colony of 
 "hotels on wheels" perched about on all available sidings. There was a 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 223 
 
 great advantage in these movable hostelries, for if one did not like the 
 neighborhood in which his hotel was situated, it could quickly and easily 
 be moved. 
 
 The usual "open meeting" was held in our commissary car that night, 
 though not with the extreme enthusiasm that had marked these occasions 
 in the past, for everyone was more or less fatigued after the activities of 
 the day. 
 
 One sad feature of the night was the necessity of establishing an 
 emergency hospital on board the train, with Sir Kreps as house physician, 
 surgeon and nurse, and Sir Biddle as the patient. 
 
 While making the ride from Santa Barbara to Los Angeles Sir Bid- 
 die became deeply interested in the many specimens of cactus growing 
 along the track. He had seen cactus before, when we crossed the desert, 
 but he did not know "what sort of an animal" it was at close range. So 
 he decided to capture one "alive." 
 
 When the "Special" made one of its short stops en route, Sir Biddle 
 seized his long waited opportunity, and rushing out surrounded a cactus 
 with his hands. Then he closed in upon it with a suddenness that 
 must have surprised the cactus, as much as the cactus surprised him. 
 
 "It bit me," he yelled as he rushed to the train firmly clutching the 
 plant, while blood flowed from the many wounds made by the sharp and 
 piercing needles, with which the cactus leaves were covered. 
 
 He was given temporary relief, but that night aboard the train, the 
 wounded hands began to show further signs of inflammation and became 
 quite painful. Sir Kreps, whose reputation as a poultice-maker is un- 
 equaled, and whose good-nature is boundless, spent the greater portion 
 of the night in relieving the suffering pilgrim, and it must be said in all 
 fairness and justice to Dr. Kreps, that his patient survived through the 
 night. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 UR itinerary for the day included a visit to Mt. Lowe, Pasadena, 
 and the Ostrich Farm at South Pasadena, and with this program 
 before us, an early start was made. After a delightful car ride 
 which carried us past Pasadena and through a rich agricultural 
 country, we arrived at the foot of Mount Echo. Here we boarded the 
 cable incline to the summit of that mountain, as a preparatory trip to 
 Mt. Lowe. 
 
 The ride through Rubio Canyon is one of great interest. Beautiful 
 view of valley and ocean are afforded during the first portion of the 
 
224 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 two and one-half mile ride, and as the route enters the canyon, pic- 
 turesque rocks and streamlets are passed and crossed until the cable 
 incline is reached at a point 2,200 feet above the sea. Trees, shrubs, 
 flowers and ferns grow in wild confusion on the mountain side, while 
 Mirror Lake, a small but beautiful body of water, is located near the 
 foot of the incline. 
 
 The cable incline, which makes the sharp ascent up Echo Mountain, 
 is operated by the novel application of both electric and water power. 
 It is 3,000 feet in length and has a grade of 62 per cent. The steepness 
 of this grade can better be realized, when one understands that a 62 
 per cent grade means a rise of 62 feet in going forward 100 feet. 
 
 The view in ascending is indescribably grand. The motion of the 
 car is smooth. At first, the mountains composing the Rubio amphi- 
 theater appear to rise with the car. Passing through Granite Gorge 
 an immense cut in the mountain slope and over Macpherson trestle 
 a bridge 200 feet long the San Gabriel Valley unfolds its incomparable 
 charms, and, as the elevation increases the view expands to its fullest 
 glory. 
 
 Once upon the crest of Echo Mountain, the discovery is made that 
 the mountain is dissevered from the main range with the exception 
 of a small "saddle." The view of the ever verdant valleys, cities, towns, 
 villages, old missions, islands, and ocean is a remarkable one. A com- 
 fortable hotel is located on the mountain, while the Lowe Observatory 
 is situated on a slope above. The site is said to be an exceptionally 
 good one for astronomical research. Here many discoveries have been 
 made, under the direction of Prof. Edgar L. Larkin. 
 
 From the top of Echo Mountain begins the Alpine division of the 
 railroad to Alpine Tavern; a section of electric road that is five miles 
 long, and without exception the finest scenic railroad in this or any other 
 country. Built on an easy grade, over a road bed which is an almost 
 continuous shelve of granite, upon which rest redwood ties, this scenic 
 railroad winds its way around Mt. Lowe, leaping ove'r chasms and 
 canyons by means of unique bridges, circling mountainous projections, 
 and passing through granite walls and offering a view of the valleys 
 and country thousands of feet below. Pikes' Peak and other noted 
 mountain tops offer enchanting distant views, but the Mt. Lowe railroad, 
 winding itself around and around the mountain side, offers a direct 
 downward, as well as out-reaching view, that is distinctly its own. 
 Whole Southern California seems spread out beneath. Distant Catalina 
 Islands and the more remote Channel Islands, off Santa Barbara, are 
 clearly and distinctly in view. 
 
 The cars go swinging along the precipitous flanks of the rugged 
 mountain and around such startling curves, bold headlines, sharp angled 
 rock piles, and amazing bridges and trestles, that the unacquainted is 
 
LOS ANGELES-PASADENA-SAN BERNARDINO-CORONADO-MT. LOWE-CATALINA 
 ISLANDS-SAN DIEGO-SAN PEDRO, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 5-io Orange Grove 
 
 A 
 
 C 
 
 S 
 
 G 
 
 Mt. Lowe Road. 23 C.. _ . 
 
 Catalina Islands. 25 Avalon, Santa Catalina Islands 
 
 Flvins? Fish. 37 Catalina Tuna. 38 Arch Rock. 28 
 
 -Seal Rocks Catalina Islands. 24 Caught witn roa ana n 
 
 27 Sugar Loaf, Santa Catalina Islands. 35 Drive to Middle Ranch. 36 
 
 San Diego, Cal. 20 Street Scene, San Diego, Cal. 30 Inner Harbor, San 
 
 yng s 3 7 -aana una. -c . - , . , 
 
 Pedro 3i-San Pedro Harbor. 3 2-34-Boating Terminal Island. 33-Pomt Firmm Light House, San Pedro. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 225 
 
 prone to suffer fear and nervousness, though every assurance of safety 
 is given. On portions of the division, loops are made around the 
 canyons in such number, and the track turns and twists in such a maze, 
 that at times one can look down and count nine different tracks over 
 which the car has passed before reaching the upper altitude. At almost 
 every stage of the journey one can look down and see the tracks of the 
 road passing one another. 
 
 The picturesque route is through dense forests of luxuriant wood. 
 Foliage is heavy and sweet-smelling. The whole journey is alluring 
 and thrilling. On one side of the road there rises the towering moun- 
 tain side, while on the other lies immeasurable depths that find their 
 end in the valleys and canyon-bottoms below. 
 
 For the first half mile there is little to excite the passenger, but as 
 the cars suddenly begin their sharp and abrupt climb, one enters a 
 veritable world of shrubbery and woodland. Spinning around the 
 mountain the cars shoot ever upward zigzaging over trestles and bridges 
 and round curves innumerable. 
 
 Twisting, circling, dodging, but ever rising, it unthreads the skein 
 whose end lies in the clouds. Skirting over the open slopes, across the 
 ravines and canyons, the broad plain below is no longer a fleeting vista, 
 but a broad prospect. You can see the forest spilling itself upon the 
 field as you look far below, and catch a faint glimpse of the Pacific Ocean, 
 which appears as a hazy cloud of steel. 
 
 Up and up we went, holding firmly to the car with one hand, and 
 clasping our hat with the other. At Mt. Lowe Springs, a point 5,000 feet 
 above sea level, the unique scenic railway came to an end. Here is 
 located Alpine Tavern, a cosy Swiss-fashioned hotel nestling in the 
 mountain side, and about 1,000 feet below the summit of the mountain. 
 About the tavern grew trees in the wildest profusion, as well as every 
 variety of fern, some of the species growing to the height of a man. 
 
 Walks, driveways and bridle paths led the visitor from the hotel 
 through romantic woodland. Squirrels, the size of which we had never 
 seen, pranced about playfully, and while somewhat tame, did not place 
 enough confidence in man to approach too closely. 
 
 An interesting example of the taming of the wild was exhibited on 
 the balconies of the hotel. A lady, seated reading a book, held a piece 
 of sugar in the palm of her outstretched hand. Shortly, several birds of 
 various species were attracted, and after circling about in smaller and 
 smaller radius, alighted on her finger and ate from her hand. The birds 
 watched her face intently, and when she looked up from her book and 
 at them off they flew. Again she turned her eyes to her book and the 
 birds were back again. 
 
 After an interesting jaunt about the tavern we started on the return 
 
 (15) 
 
226 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 trip. The descent was not less interesting than the ascent. In fact there 
 was a deeper sense of the thrilling, as we went whirling down the moun- 
 tain side to the depths below. Arriving at the foot of Mount Echo, we 
 returned over the same route which we came and stopped at Pasadena, 
 a thriving modern city of 20,000 inhabitants. For the origin of the 
 name you may choose between the imputed Indian signification, Crown 
 of the Valley, and a corruption of the Spanish Paso de Eden (Threshold 
 of Eden). It is in any event the crown of the San Gabriel Valley, which 
 nestles warmly in its groves and rosebowers below lofty bulwarks tipped 
 with snow. Here an eastern multitude makes regular winter home in 
 modest cottage or imposing mansion. Every fruit and flower and every 
 ornamental tree and shrub known to Southern California is represented 
 in the elaborate grounds of this little realm. It is a playground of 
 wealth. 
 
 Orange Grove avenue is one of the most beautiful residence 
 thoroughfares in the United States, or in any other country, for that 
 matter. The magnificent Raymond Hotel on the hill is a prominent land- 
 mark for many miles around. The Hotel Green, adjoining the depot 
 of the Santa Fe, is a fine specimen of California architecture. Another 
 notable edifice is Hotel Maryland, recently built. The visitor to Pasadena 
 finds it difficult to believe that less than thirty years ago the site of this 
 beautiful city, then known as the San Pasqual rancho, was sbld to the 
 "Indiana Colony" for $5 an acre, and the seller afterward expressed 
 contrition at having taken advantage of the "tenderfeet" in charging so 
 exorbitant a price. 
 
 One of the most pleasing features of our visit to Pasadena was the 
 reception tendered us and hospitality shown by the local Commandery. 
 It was on this occasion that Sir William exhibited a staunch temperance 
 spirit, that could not have been put to a more severe test. He visited 
 one of the wineries whose daily capacity was 75 tons of grapes. Sir 
 William witnessed the process of making wine with great interest, saw 
 the huge casks being rapidly filled, and where sufficient wine was stored 
 to supply a nation. Then he went to the Pasadena Commandery head- 
 quarters to secure some lemonade and cake. 
 
 After a short but delightful stay in Pasadena we visited South 
 Pasadena and Ostrich Farm. Amid semi-tropical surroundings this 
 unique enterprise finds its home. In 1885 fifty ostriches were imported 
 from Africa and formed the foundation of a flock that numbered 250 
 during our visit. The care of the young, and the method of extracting 
 plumes from the old, were of much interest. The chicks are fed on 
 gravel during the first few days and seemed to thrive on it. Spectators 
 are not permitted to venture near, for the ostrich often becomes angered^ 
 and when so aroused, is somewhat dangerous. They also have a great 
 fancy for anything that shines, and are inclined to steal and eat such 
 
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 I San Gabriel Mission. 2 California Poppy. 3 Los Angeles -Mission and the Plaza. 4 Hollenbeck Park. 5 City Park. 6 
 West Lake Park. 7-12-16 East Lake Park. 8 A Cluster ol Oranges. 9 Baldwin's ranch, showing " Lucky " Baldwin. lo A 
 Rose covered Cottage. 11-14 Higueroa Street. 13 A Palm Drive, is St. James Park. 17 Residence of Paul De Longpre. 18 A 
 Typical Southern California semi-tropic scene. 19 Palm Avenue. 20 Adams Street. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 227 
 
 objects, whether they be portions of wearing apparel or not. Hanley 
 would not venture within 50 yards of an ostrich when he heard of their 
 fondness for glittering objects, as he had his shoes polished prior to 
 leaving Pasadena. Johnston held his hand over his nose, which had 
 become sunburned and shone like Sir Oscar's stud. 
 
 A brick is just as toothsome to an ostrich as a plate of tri-colored 
 ice cream. The birds swallow everything whole, and depend upon their 
 stomachs to do the mastication as well as digestion. Oranges are 
 gulped down whole, without the formality of taking off the rind. We 
 suggested to the proprietor that he take his birds and board them at 
 the inn, on the border of the Yellowstone Park, but he declared that 
 even an ostrich might die of shock. 
 
 The peculiarity of the bird in swallowing everything whole, is clearly 
 shown by the bulge in the side of the neck which each article forms, 
 before it works its way down into the stomach. Some were leisurely 
 walking about with one or two apparent pouches in their long necks, 
 while others wore necks that looked like well-knotted hickory canes, with 
 big bulges here and there on both sides. Although the ostriches at the, 
 Pasadena farm are somewhat tamed by confinement, they seemed to 
 consider the visiting Sir Knights with suspicion. They looked upon 
 Templars as their natural enemies, because of their display of plumes. 
 
 Returning to Los Angeles we sauntered about upon the cheerful, 
 well-lighted streets. After a short walk we came upon a building in gala 
 array. A banner swung across the thoroughfare, announced that it was 
 the Temple of Los Angeles Commandery, No. 9. Above the entrance 
 hung a sign, larger by far than the banner, which read "Welcome Sir 
 Knights." But the broad invitation of a wide sign was not necessary in 
 this case. It was like meeting a dear old friend. The boundless hospi- 
 tality of Los Angeles Commandery, No. 9, was a fresh memory. We 
 had learned to know our Praters, and had enjoyed their generosity in 
 the Conclave City. 
 
 As we entered the open door we became immersed in a flood of 
 light and brilliancy. Everything seemed to lift itself and smilingly say: 
 "Pilgrim, I Greet Thee." The whole edifice within was aglow. Music 
 filled the air. The sweet aroma of fragrant flowers intoxicated the 
 senses. For 14 days and nights this Commandery kept its doors wide 
 open to the visiting Sir Knights from all sections of the country, and 
 never did the hospitality waver from the point of extravagant liberality. 
 
 We were ushered into a spacious banquet hall, where an elegant 
 repast was spread. A corps of attendants stood ready, not only to cater 
 to our needs but to encourage us to take more than our needs. Beautiful 
 floral designs and decorations stood about in large number. Roses and 
 delicate buds were virtually showered upon us, for as one beautiful piece 
 was plucked apart for the guests, another was provided. Tickets of 
 
228 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 admission and transportation to various resorts and pleasure points, were 
 liberally offered to the visiting Sir Knights, including street car tickets. 
 
 The ladies who assisted the Los Angeles Sir Knights in receiving, 
 were as attentive and sisterly as the most liberal application of those 
 terms can convey. Not only did they receive our ladies with a hospi- 
 tality that was entirely free from formality, but they also received the 
 Sir Knights of our party as old-time acquaintances. 
 
 The social and fraternal kindness shown us that evening by every 
 individual, was truly beyond any anticipation. It is no exaggeration to 
 say that the reception accorded us was one of the most liberal throughout 
 our transcontinental pilgrimage. It was only upon our announcement 
 that our schedule would permit us to remain in Los Angeles for another 
 day or two, and that we would return before leaving the city, that our 
 leave-taking on that night was made possible. Under these conditions 
 we were able to say "good-night" but not good bye. 
 
 As we reached the railroad station in search of our train, to retire 
 for the night, we found that we had "moved" again. We didn't live in 
 the same neighborhood. Trains bearing delegations from other sections 
 of the country occupied the site where we had resided during the 
 morning. We were compelled to inquire where we "lived." 
 
 Finally we found our "Special." We had moved to an aristocratic 
 community and were located on a siding used by a lard refinery. In the 
 morning we had faced a foundry and saw mill. However, knowing that 
 our train had been switched back and forth among other Knight Templar 
 "Specials," we knew that we were "moving in good society." 
 
 A thrilling incident occurred in the "stag" coach that night which 
 virtually made the cold chills creep upon the backs of many of the occu- 
 pants. It was all due to a cold reception which the "stag" coach dele- 
 gation received. 
 
 Two of the pilgrims, who received an inspiration, by seeing the 
 trainmen wheeling cracked ice for the drinking tanks, managed to 
 "borrow" a tubful. In order that the excitement of the day might not 
 overheat the blood of the comrades during the night, they distributed" 
 the ice equally, under the sheets of each berth in the "stag" coach, while 
 occupants were innocently discussing in the commissary car. After the 
 Sir Knights had retired there came a rude awakening. Some declared 
 that ten thousand needles pierced them. Others announced that the city 
 was immersed in a flood. Sir Watson, who had an upper berth, called 
 for an umbrella to keep the rain from coming in the roof. Only one 
 pilgrim was spared, and this was only accomplished by the heroic action 
 of a brother Sir Knight. The ice distributor had entered the stateroom, 
 occupied by "Kunnie," with the charitable purpose of showing him the 
 same attention the others had received. Once within the apartment, he 
 was encountered by Sir "Bobbie" who guarded his sleeping comrade 
 
229 
 
 and roommate with a sincerity that would have driven the melodrama 
 hero to blush. No logical argument on the part of the ice man could 
 induce Sir "Bobbie" to permit his comrade to be sprinkled with 
 cracked ice, and "Kunnie" was permitted to enjoy the sleep of the 
 just without the comforts of a refrigerator car. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 HETHER the fates willed it because it was the thirteenth day of 
 the month, or whether it was merely a caprice of destiny may never 
 be known, but the fact remains that our happy band of pilgrims 
 were compelled to suffer embarrassment at the hands of a confused 
 laundryman. 
 
 On the previous morning, a well-meaning young man called upon us 
 and had politely solicited the laundry of our party in behalf of his firm, 
 who washed for a living. His promise to return the linens the same day 
 was an inducement that won him our business. We gave him everything 
 wearable that could be spared; retaining only essential articles for the 
 day's wear. But when night came, it came without the laundry or the 
 laundryman. 
 
 However, early on this morning there came a delivery of bundles to 
 our "Special" that looked like an army equipment. In fact the bundles 
 returned seemed so many more than those sent, that we had a suspicion 
 that the fertile climate of Southern California had induced our linen to 
 multiply upon contact with water. 
 
 Some time after the delivery was made and the bundles had been 
 distributed, the awful truth dawned upon us. Our laundry had become 
 confused with that of a visiting circus, and we were destined to either re- 
 main "at home" or appear only in the sawdust ring. While we deeply 
 sympathized with the bareback riders, clowns, and acrobats who at the 
 same time might be struggling into sane clothing, we were compelled to 
 take a selfish view of the situation, and consider what an embarrassment 
 it would be to wear the costumes we had received, without the use of 
 make-up paint. 
 
 Sir Oscar, who had entrusted the laundry with cleaning three 
 pairs of flannel trousers and several suits of underwear, had received in 
 return a pair of lavender tights which had evidently been built for the 
 "living skeleton" or the "ossified man." Knowing that lavender was not 
 favorable to his complexion, Sir Oscar refused to wear the tights in 
 public. 
 
230 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 Sir Frederick W. received a pair of drawers which were constructed 
 on a new plan. They consisted of two white ruffle-cuffed absurdities, 
 hitched together at the top with a narrow band; and when applied, they 
 did not come down to his knees. They were pretty enough, but made 
 him feel like two persons, and much disconnected at that. He didn't 
 appear to be related to himself when he tried them on. 
 
 The shirt they brought Sir Reel was shorter than Sir Frederick's 
 drawers, and hadn't any sleeves at least it had nothing more than what 
 could be called "rudimentary or undeveloped" sleeves. Fancy "edging" 
 ran around the arm pits, where the sleeves had been amputated, and the 
 bosom was cut ridiculously low. When Sir Reel tried it on he found 
 that it was cut too high at the bottom and too low at the top but how 
 it did stretch! 
 
 The knit silk underskirt that was brought Sir Gilland in exchange 
 for four dozen collars, was really a sensible thing. It opened behind, and 
 had pockets in which to put your shoulder blades. It was a beautiful, 
 deep rich red in color, and was so tastefully pleated and ruffled that it 
 would not have appeared absurd on the street providing something was 
 worn to cover it. 
 
 Sir Greenawalt, who had sent four neckties and three dozen hand- 
 kerchiefs to the laundry, drew as his prize package a linen duster, that 
 had either been tailored to fit the elephant, or was intended as a covering 
 for one of the circus wagons. Sir Otto made a tent out of it, and crawl- 
 ing under, avoided catching cold until his proper laundry was returned. 
 
 Sir Gilchrist, who wears a No. 17 shirt, when the laundry is not 
 working on it, received a boy's waist with nice white pearl buttons around 
 the bottom and a pretty sailor collar at the top. Unable to don the dainty 
 little creation, Sir Joseph tied the arms of the waist around his neck and 
 managed to wear the collar. He made the cutest little "Bo Peep" that 
 Los Angeles ever entertained. 
 
 Sir Burry had his sweater washed! If there is any doubt in the 
 reader's mind, the fact can be confirmed by making an investigation of 
 the records of the Los Angeles laundries. Whether it was rejected by 
 the circus crew, because it was too sensational, is not known; at any 
 rate it was among the very few pieces properly returned to our train. 
 However, when Sir Edward and the sweater looked into each other's 
 faces there was no sign of recognition. Instead of the attractive striped 
 bars which had made the sweater famous throughout the west, it had 
 changed into a blending rainbow effect, and gave evidence that it had 
 been weeping long and piteously. Sir Edward was so moved that he 
 clasped the sweater to his breast, and the sweater put its arms around 
 Sir Edward. 
 
 Sir Kunberger had sent the laundry "an awful lot" of shirts but 
 they were both missing. When he opened his package he found a pink hair 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 231 
 
 ribbon, two pair of "open-work" stockings and a "cutaway" waist that 
 glistened with spangles. The waist was so "cut away" that anyone 
 attempting to put it on, would have fallen out of it, were it not for the 
 shoulder straps. "Kunnie" tried it on but the spangles would not match 
 the pink hair ribbon, which he was compelled to wear around his neck 
 for a collar. 
 
 Sir Walter received a Navajo blanket and two doilies in exchange 
 for all the linen he had. The blanket appeared as if it had covered a 
 multitude of sins, and if the doilies had only been feathers he might have 
 assumed the role of "Sitting Bull." He was the best dressed man on 
 board the train nothing flashy about his attire, but more genteel than his 
 comrades. 
 
 Sir Flechsig wouldn't have cared so much about losing a dozen col- 
 lars, four shirts, two suits of underwear and eight handkerchiefs if he 
 hadn't received a brick-red flannel undershirt in return. It was so heavy 
 that he could hardly wear it, and the red was so violent that he feared he 
 would catch fire if he put it on. So he opened a window and tacked the 
 red shirt to the sill, as a signal of distress. A few moments later several 
 strangers walked into the car and inquired when the auction would take 
 place. Then Sir Herman brought down his flag to half-mast. 
 
 Nothing was received by Sir Craig but the promise of an investiga- 
 tion. He couldn't wear that without causing talk, so Burry, in the kind- 
 ness of his heart, allowed him to wear the sweater, that he could at 
 least sit up in bed. 
 
 Sir Watson gleefully unwrapped a package of collars, with the hope 
 that he, at least, had received conventional attire. Unfortunately they were 
 four sizes too large for him, but with the aid of a safety pin he managed 
 to keep one from falling over his shoulders. In the absence of any means 
 by which to fasten the collar at the back, it continually worked its way 
 up the back of his neck until it looked like the strap on a guardsman's 
 helmet, and interfered with jaw movement. 
 
 Other members of the party received souvenirs in return for their 
 garments that were more interesting than serviceable, and when the 
 "third and last call" to breakfast was heard, the consternation that pre- 
 vailed in the "stag" coach was beyond the power of description. 
 
 The predicament in the "stag" coach was a serious one. With nearly 
 all the linen of the whole party in the hands of the laundry, or more 
 likely, in the hands of the circus troupe, we were not prepared to receive 
 visitors. 
 
 We were too loose in some places and too tight in others, and all 
 together we felt slovenly and ill conditioned. There was one advantage 
 that all enjoyed. No one at the breakfast table that morning was better 
 dressed than the other. Everyone had someone else's clothes on, in part 
 or in whole. It appeared as if a congress of nations was feasting. How- 
 
232 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 ever, everything but the costumes and their colors, harmonized. Sir 
 Craig, who had received nothing but a promise, managed to get to the 
 breakfast table through the kindness of Sir Greenawalt, who brought 
 him along under his roomy linen duster. Sir Flechsig, who had received 
 the red flannel undershirt, did not come to the table at all, but sent word 
 that, while he was not more particular in his dress than his companions, 
 he had never carried the hod, and was sure that a guest at the table wear- 
 ing a red undershirt would excite remark. 
 
 Fortunately, the laundry authorities (having discovered their error) 
 paid an urgent call shortly after breakfast, and presented us with our 
 missing garments. They explained that the moving of our "Special" and 
 the transfer of a circus train upon the siding formerly occupied by us, 
 had led to the unfortunate error; as the only address by which we were 
 identified was the street opposite which our "Special" was originally sta- 
 tioned. 
 
 Several of our Sir Knights had formed such a "strong attachment" 
 to the circus clothing that they could not easily part with it. For instance, 
 Sir Oscar, who tried on the lavender tights was so attached to them that 
 it required the efforts of three companions to get them off. Not that 
 he wasn't willing, but the tights clung affectionately to him. Sir Lee's 
 sympathies went out to Oscar, as his experience with the Santa Barbara 
 bathing suit gave a keen realization of Oscar's predicament. 
 
 After making the necessary changes in clothing, we were prepared 
 to make the day's pilgrimage which promised to carry us through some 
 of the many attractive resorts and suburbs of Los Angeles. The seaside 
 resorts in the vicinity are easily accessible and are largely patronized. 
 The oldest is Santa Monica, which is not only a seaside resort, but a 
 good-sized, modern city as well. To the south is Ocean Park, and imme- 
 diately to the north, Port Los Angeles. All three offer the pleasures of 
 seaside life. 
 
 En route to Santa Monica we passed through Swatelle, where stands 
 the Pacific branch of the National Soldiers' Home. Upwards of 2,000 
 veterans were making their home there during our visit. The home has a 
 farm of 500 acres adjoining and extensive grounds rich in floral beauty 
 surround the premises. 
 
 Playa Del Rey is the name of the new beach resort which is rapidly 
 being beautified. Among its attractions is a lagoon whose waters are 
 smooth and wide. It is two miles long and is devoted to boat racing. 
 From Playa Del Rey we took a seaside trolley ride of twelve miles to 
 Redondo, one of the most popular seaside resorts on the Pacific coast. 
 
 Redondo is famed as a fishing resort and black bass weighing from 
 300 to 500 pounds have frequently been caught in its waters. Fishing by 
 moonlight is one of the summer attractions. Swimming, bathing, boat- 
 ing and beach-combing are among the other popular diversities. Great 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 233 
 
 shiploads of lumber are loaded here, and passenger steamers make regu- 
 lar stops. Redondo has fine hotels and many handsome cottages, and 
 among its beauty spots is a carnation garden of several acres. Near 
 Redondo is Hermosa Beach, a summer resort rather than a pleasure 
 resort, where families of Los Angeles merchants summer in large 
 numbers. 
 
 Sirs Bovard, Reel, Shook and Jack bathed so long at Redondo that 
 the sun burned them to a color which is distinctly that of the boiled lob- 
 ster. They each wore a hugh straw bathing hat that looked like an 
 inverted bushel basket. 
 
 No one appreciated the beauty of their costumes any more than they 
 did themselves, and in order not to rob "the folks at home" of the treat, 
 they sought a photographer and had their pictures taken ensemble. It 
 was indeed unfortunate that they were compelled to remove their bathing 
 suits before leaving, for when the tight-fitting garments were slowly 
 peeled off, the sunburnt skin of the bathers came off with them in large 
 patches. Sir Reel devoted his time at the beach in hunting moonstones, 
 which were among the pebbles cast up by the waves, and proved himself 
 a star in his astronomical pursuit of seeking moonstones by sunlight. 
 
 Among other attractive resorts and pleasure spots lying within a 
 narrow radius are Hollywood, Manhattan Beach, Long Beach, Brigh- 
 ton Beach, Alhambra, Wilson Peak Park, Monrovia, Pomona, Idyllwild, 
 and the old mission town of San Gabriel. This mission was founded by 
 the Franciscan monks in 1771, and the old building is finely preserved. 
 The mission grape vine is more than 100 years old, and never fails to bear 
 a heavy vintage. 
 
 While the greater number of our pilgrims gave themselves over to 
 a visitation of these many resorts, a number spent the day in a visit to 
 San Diego, that Southern California city which is as beautiful as it is 
 important. With a fine harbor, and nestling on a slope that rises from 
 the water's edge to a high summit, San Diego enjoys a rare location. 
 With valleys of enormous fruit-bearing orchards on one side and lofty 
 mountains on the other, and with ocean and the San Diego river in close 
 touch, the city enjoys rich advantages. Its hotels are many and luxuri- 
 ant. Then there is Coronado. A city of tents but a mile away, which 
 faces the ocean and offers all the pleasures of a popular resort and with 
 all the beauty of a summer home. 
 
 Nothwithstanding the activities of the day, it was not an exhausted 
 band of pilgrims that found its way back into the fold, in the city of Los 
 Angeles, at night. Whether it was the admirable climate or something 
 in the rarefied air, the fact remains. Following dinner, we again sought 
 our old friends Los Angeles Commandery, No. 9. The Temple stood 
 aglow in all the splendor we had seen the night before. The same hospi- 
 tality reigned supreme. Aided by scores of pretty girls and handsome 
 
234 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 matrons, the Sir Knights were anxious to receive us, and offer their well- 
 known generosity. Music and the scent of flowers lent charm to the 
 surroundings, while dancing and other forms of entertainment were lav- 
 ishly provided. 
 
 An incident which indicates the liberality and kindness with which 
 the visiting Sir Knights were received by all classes and all interests in 
 Los Angeles, can be cited in a courtesy which was enjoyed by Sir Schulze 
 and his party, while returning from the Masonic Temple that night. The 
 party was late in leaving, and sought the railroad station to board the 
 "Special" for the night. Taking the first street car that came along, the 
 pilgrims asked the conductor to leave them off at the railroad station. 
 He informed them that, at that hour, his car would come to the end of 
 its route about six blocks from the station. "But," continued the con- 
 ductor, "I see you are visitors and we want to treat you right. I will 
 carry you there on my own account, for I know the company wants 
 to treat you right." The car outran its terminal and carried the party 
 to its destination. 
 
 Guests at the "Hotel De Car" were late in returning that night, but 
 this was charitably excused because of the fact that the "hotel" had 
 changed its location so often that the guests possibly might have become 
 confused. However, the right quarters could have been detected from the 
 outside, by the murmurings of a "council of war" which was being held 
 in the commissary car. An outline of attack for the morrow was being 
 mapped out, when the terrible truth dawned upon us that we had no 
 leader. It was a kingdom without a king, and an election was promptly 
 held. Owing to the fact that he was not present to resent it, Sir Joseph 
 J. was unanimously chosen for the distinction. It was a mean advantage 
 to take as he lay peacefully sleeping in his berth in the "stag" coach. 
 
 Once named as king, thoughts turned to the fact that he was un- 
 crowned. It was only after a consultation with Johnston, that possibili- 
 ties offered themselves. (Nothing is dearer or more sacred to the heart 
 of a loyal colored gentleman than a watermelon, and Johnston's ingenuity 
 turned to that.) His suggestion was accepted and we at once performed 
 the delicate operation of dissecting a huge watermelon by cutting it in 
 half, and carving out the interior. 
 
 With great solemnity a committee was appointed to crown the king, 
 and treading softly to his couch, we placed the inverted half watermelon 
 rind over his imperial dome of thought. The fatigue of the day, the vig- 
 orating night air, and the comforting assurance of duty well done, and the 
 approval of friends, had lulled him into a gentle repose. Anyone who 
 might have looked upon him as he lay there in that innocent slumber, 
 with the winsome mouth slightly ajar, while a merry smile now and then 
 flitted across the regular features, would have said that no heart could 
 be so hard as to harbor ill for one so guileless and so innocent. Occasion- 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 235 
 
 ally he let a sigh of blessed relief, such as a woman might heave after 
 she has returned from church and transferred herself from the embrace 
 of a castiron, glove-fit, tailor-made gown into a friendly wrapper. Regu- 
 larly, like the rise and fall of the waves at the Cliff House, it rose and 
 fell. It is true that the crown was not so good a fit as it might have been, 
 and that it covered more of his face than it did his head, but the honor 
 was there. After performing the coronation we retired and left the king 
 to dream of his glory. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 HAT was our surprise on the following morning, when we found 
 the new king still sleeping with the crown on his head. True, it 
 was tilted a little over his left ear, in a manner that would hardly 
 have been considered dignified in court circles, but our "king could 
 do no wrong!" To show our loyalty as his respectful subjects, we decided 
 to awaken him with a pleasing serenade. 
 
 Promptly at 8:30 o'clock we boarded the train for San Pedro, en 
 route to Santa Catalina Island and the famous Marine Gardens. The Salt 
 Lake Route, over which we traveled, finds it most important connection 
 between Los Angeles and San Pedro, the terminal of the Wilmington 
 Transportation Company, whose steamers ply daily, throughout the year, 
 from San Pedro to the islands. 
 
 San Pedro is a port whose future offers boundless opportunities. It 
 is through this harbor that Los Angeles will ship to the Orient, and 
 which will open all Southern California and the southwestern portion of 
 the whole country and afford an outlet to the Far East, Hawaii and the 
 Panama Canal trade. During our visit the government was construct- 
 ing a $3,000,000 breakwater two miles long, to protect the harbor, and 
 when this is completed the inner harbor of San Pedro will embrace a 
 water front of II miles, suitable for the dockage or sea-going vessels. 
 The town is a growing one, and is engaged chiefly in marketing oysters, 
 sardines, lobsters and all sea foods in a large commercial way. 
 
 Arriving at San Pedro, one of the Santa Catalina steamers was in 
 waiting. The ocean trip is one and one-half hours duration, and is highly 
 enjoyable. A beautiful view of the Southern California coast line is 
 afforded, and while all sorts of objects of interest command the attention 
 of the steamer passengers, there is none so fascinating or novel as the 
 flying fish, which are seen in large numbers. 
 
 When but a few miles out from the mainland these marvelous fish 
 
236 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 can be seen leaping from beneath the bow of the steamer, singly, in pairs 
 and by the dozen, until one wearies in counting them. They skim over 
 the waves in graceful curves and their length of flight varies from 10 to 
 500 yards, and often greater distances. In size, shape and color the flying 
 fish are very similar to the mackerel. Its "wings" are muscular fins whose 
 spines are connected by a light membrane, and are four in number. The 
 hindermost pair are quite small, mere butterfly wings of stout fiber; the 
 foremost pair attain a length of seven or eight inches, and when extended 
 are two inches or more in breadth. Breaking from the water at a high 
 rate of speed, but at a very low angle, the flying fish extend these wing- 
 like fins and holds them rigid, like the set wings of a soaring hawk. With 
 the lower flange of its deeply forked tail, which at first drags lightly, it 
 sculls with a convulsive wriggle of the whole body that gives it the casual 
 appearance of actually winging its way. The additional impulse thus 
 acquired lifts it entirely out of the water, over whose surface it then glides 
 without further effort for a long distance, until, losing in momentum 
 and in the sustaining pressure of the air beneath its outstretched fins, it 
 again touches the water, either to disappear abruptly or by renewed 
 sculling to prolong its flight. Whales of great size are often seen along 
 the route of these steamers, but it was not our privilege to observe any 
 during the trip. 
 
 Arriving at the largest of the Santa Catalina Islands, we steamed into 
 a beautiful bay, which was a concaved semi-circle in shape. The island 
 itself is 22 miles long and includes 40,000 acres, in the shadow of moun- 
 tains that almost completely encircle it. It is known as Avalon. 
 
 Upon landing, the steamer was surrounded by scores of boys, many 
 of them in skiffs, and others swimming in the water all shouting : "Got 
 any change, mister ?" "Got any change, mister ?" and urging us to throw 
 coins into the bay and see them dive after them. 
 
 Shivering incessantly, and with chattering teeth and deep-blued lips, 
 these little fellows, clad only in tights, make a business, if not a profes- 
 sion, of diving for money thrown from the steamers by daily visitors, 
 spending hours, and often a whole day, in the water. 
 
 We acquiesced with their demands and threw out several coins. So 
 perfectly clear is the water that the bottom can be seen. All the lads 
 were expert divers and never failed to get the coins, coming up with them 
 in their mouths. In fact the only purse they used, or could use, were 
 mouth purses. They kept up their call for "more change" when 
 their mouths were so full that their words were scarcely audible; this 
 compelled them to make all sorts of grimaces in shouting, without drop- 
 ping money from their mouths. 
 
 Some of the lads were cunning enough to catch their coins, long be- 
 fore they had sunk to the bottom, but would throw their legs half out of 
 the water and dive deep to give the impression that they had gone to the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 237 
 
 bottom. Frequently, an exciting scramble under water for the possession 
 of a coin lent zest to the performance, and as a whole we enjoyed the 
 sport as much as the boys. 
 
 On the pier we at once became the objects of persistent attention by a 
 hundred boatmen, who hawked at us like the inevitable hackman at a 
 railroad station, and grasping us familiarly by the coat lapel, shouted: 
 "Glass bottom boat ?" "Glass bottom boat, sir ?" 
 
 These glass bottom boats offer the chief interest in a visit to Santa 
 Catalina Islands. They are small crafts, usually propelled by oar, though 
 some are sail boats, and a few, steam launches. In every instance the 
 seats are arranged around the edge of the boat in elliptical shape, while 
 the center of the bottom drops down under water containing a clear 
 slab of plate glass. To protect this "pit," and to afford the passengers 
 something to lean on, a rail guards the center of the boat, and by resting 
 on this and peering down, all the mysteries of Neptune's kingdom are 
 revealed. 
 
 The famous "Marine Gardens" are located in the bay off the Avalon 
 shore. So transparent are the waters that every detail on the bottom 
 many fathoms below, are clearly distinguishable. The glass has magni- 
 fying properties, so has the water, and as one gazes in rapture at the rare 
 and exquisite foliage of the sea bottom, and turns about a moment to note 
 that the earth is still about him, he becomes thrilled with a feeling and 
 belief that he is swaying leisurely, airily and lightly through space ; that 
 the boat is balancing daintily upon some cloud and that there is naught 
 beneath nor above. 
 
 Were every page in this volume devoted solely to a description of the 
 marvels of the sea as disclosed by the glass bottom boats, and were the 
 writer so rare a one as to be competent to accurately record their descrip- 
 tion, the story would not be half told. Man's knowledge of color and 
 form is too limited to tell his neighbor what he saw at the bottom of the 
 sea. Expert botanists are helpless to identify many of the specimens 
 revealed in the shrubbery and forests which grow in jungle-like confusion 
 on the ocean bottom. Shells and coral creations abound in forms and 
 color of dazzling splendor, while fish that are marvelously odd and curi- 
 ous pose and swim lazily by in uncountable numbers, utterly ignorant 
 of the presence of man, or too dignified to notice him. 
 
 The brush itself, that grand preserver of human memory, is pow- 
 erless to record the beauties of life under water. Just as if God had 
 amused himself by making a garden of awe-inspiring beauty. One, 
 becomes astounded, asks questions, exclaims, and goes into ecstacies. A 
 hundred species of fish passed by playfully, in schools of thousands, or 
 in tiny groups, unconscious and unmindful of an audience. You see 
 them as they live, and play, and pass the time away. 
 
 The golden sands mingled with the emerald vegetation; the trees of 
 
238 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 coral with irregular branches glistening with every imaginable hue 
 mother-of-pearl, ruby, saphire, turquoise and amethyst; hair-like ferns, 
 sea grass and other odly-shaped vegetation swaying gently to and fro, in 
 harmony with the will of the under currents, lend a supernatural charm. 
 
 Here are shell-encrusted rocks projecting upward at uneven heights 
 like the hills upon the shore, and over these pearly gray formations one 
 can see the slowly creeping shell and star fish moving spasmodically in 
 short, jerky slides. Gold fish, of immense size, wiggle slowly by, while 
 here and there one is privileged to gaze upon the queer electric fish which 
 throws its peculiar, greenish searchlight ahead intermittently. 
 
 It was a fairy place inhabited by fish, fish, fish nothing but fish ! 
 Here and there arose a cliff arranged like a throne of a splendid goddess 
 or mermaid of royal blood, who had chosen this fairyland for her bath. 
 Sometimes the rocks would take the form of abandoned castles, with 
 secret subterranean passageways through which the fish would grace- 
 fully glide in and out. 
 
 Occasionally the boatman would announce the particular depth at 
 the point where the boat was resting, and this only added wonder, because 
 of the clearness of the vision. Now and again the eye and mind would 
 tire of the eager and incessant gaze, and one is compelled to turn away 
 and rest, and rub fresh vigor into the eyes. 
 
 Reluctantly we left the Marine Gardens. It had been of such un- 
 expected beauty and its revelations so novel and fascinating. Return- 
 ing to Avalon, some of the pilgrims made an inspection of that pictur- 
 esque town, while others took side trips, including: Sea-Lion Rookery, 
 the Sphinx, San Clemente, Little Harbor, Mount Orizaba, Banning and 
 Black Jack, Empire Landing, Catalina Harbor, Eagles' Nest Camp, Pre- 
 historic Cave, Moonstone Beach and Sea Rocks. The latter being the 
 rendezvous of hundreds of seals, many of whom are of enormous size. 
 
 One of Avalon's most alluring attractions is the sport it offers to 
 anglers. The barracuda is plentiful, likewise yellow-tail or sea-salmon, 
 which frequently weighs 50 pounds. Sea-bass fishing is much indulged 
 in, and these fish are also plentiful, ranging in weight from 200 to 400 
 pounds. The fisherman who hooks one is frequently dragged in his skiff 
 for miles, and is often as much exhausted as the fish when it finally comes 
 to gaff. 
 
 The most popular fishing at Catalina is for the leaping tuna, a gamy 
 fish that furnishes the angler all the sport that hook and line can possibly 
 afford. Fishermen from all parts of the world visit Catalina for the sole 
 purpose of combating with the "tunny," and a tuna club has been formed, 
 which offers diplomas and prizes to the catcher of the largest tuna each 
 year, with rod and reel. These fish sometimes weigh 250 pounds, and 
 are so game that they have been known to pull a boat containing three 
 people for 12 hours before being landed. Their favorite diet is flying fish, 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 239 
 
 in following which they will jump out of the water and catch their prey 
 in the air. 
 
 Shortly after 4 o'clock we boarded the steamer for our return. The 
 trip was rougher than the one that brought us to Catalina Islands. Not 
 that the water was any rougher, but the trip was not as pleasant to some 
 of the pilgrims. Most of the party had eaten liberally of fish dur- 
 ing a luncheon of rich food, thereby securing an excellent "ready on" for 
 the return voyage. As the boat weighed anchor, everyone was happy and 
 cheerful, and smiles spread over every countenance. All were in jesting 
 humor, as they greeted one another with : "Hello, Joe" ; "How-de-du, 
 Ed?" "Fine sight!" "How you feeling?" etc. As they strode about upon 
 the deck the happy pilgrims pulled down their vests in conscious satis- 
 faction of the good meal they had enjoyed (the ladies, of course, being 
 excepted). In a few moments these land sailors deserted the deck one by 
 one. 
 
 The cabin and staterooms seemed to have offered special attractions ; 
 peace and quiet prevailed. Down in the cabin "Bobbie" was mumbling 
 something about "near North avenue, Allegheny h-o-m-e." He looked 
 as if he had something on his mind or off his stomach. "Joe" appeared 
 so quiet there was a suspicion that something ailed him. 
 
 "When do we get off the roller-coaster?" inquired Sir Gilland in 
 whispers and we knew how he felt. Sir Watson was looking down a 
 port hole, pretending he saw the Marine Gardens. 
 
 We arrived at San Pedro shortly after six o'clock with our 
 "wounded," and when we reached Los Angeles we found that the hos- 
 pital candidates had fully recovered. 
 
 The engine had not ceased panting when there was a concentrated 
 rush on the part of the "stag coachers" to get to their quarters and "pre- 
 pare" for the evening. There was an upheaval of linens and neckties, and 
 all tributes to good appearance including hair restorer. What occa- 
 sioned all the activity could not be ascertained, for none cared to divulge 
 the secret. However, it was learned later that some of the "stag coach- 
 ers" were received at Los Angeles Commandery headquarters by members 
 of the fair sex, with an enthusiasm that bespoke the fact that they had at 
 least been remembered from the previous visits. 
 
 We are almost afraid to tell how our noble, big-hearted Praters 
 received and treated us, for fear of a whole batch of Masonic bodies pack- 
 ing up and paying them a visit and taking those good people completely 
 by storm ; but even with that risk, we cannot refrain from dilating upon 
 one of the most glorious receptions of the pilgrimage; so our good 
 friends must not hold us accountable if we are the cause of a wholesale 
 imposition upon their kindness and hospitality. 
 
 It was our last night in Los Angeles, and at no time did we more 
 keenly regret it than when we participated in the grand good time offered 
 
240 
 
 by Los Angeles Commandery with the big-hearted hospitality which had 
 marked its reception for days. Long into the night we lingered within 
 the portals of the brilliantly lighted headquarters, bidding adieu time and 
 time again. 
 
 We can truthfully say that the few days spent in Los Angeles were 
 among the brightest and sparkling gems that studded our transcontinental 
 tour. We assured our hosts of the highest and keenest appreciation of 
 their boundless hospitality, extravagant liberality and sincere fraternal 
 fellowship. The outstretched hand of brotherly welcome was extended 
 by Los Angeles Commandery, No. 9, not only during the 14 days and 
 nights it maintained "open house" at home, but at its headquarters in the 
 Conclave City as well. 
 
 In San Francisco the Los Angeles Commandery was represented by 
 nearly 500 Sir Knights and ladies, and the entertainment that they 
 provided at their headquarters rivaled the most lavish display on the 
 coast. Hurrying back to their paradisiacal home, they threw wide 
 open the doors of their magnificent Temple and received in regal 
 style. Enjoying this hospitality and the friendship of the Los Angeles 
 Sir Knights themselves, we are only placing credit where credit is 
 due, in congratulating them upon the honor they bestowed upon Cali- 
 fornia and the order they represented, by their lavish, delightful and 
 sincere welcome and entertainment. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 E arose the next morning with full knowledge of the fact that we 
 had but a few hours to remain in Los Angeles. There were expres- 
 sions of regret because our stay could not be prolonged. We 
 regretted to leave the city and the friends we had made; parting 
 from the Sir Knights of the beautiful city. Some of "our boys" regretted 
 to leave the fair sex in fact, our regrets became so many that Sir Reel 
 regretted to leave the breakfast table until everything that resembled 
 food had left first. 
 
 With but a few hours before train time, our "happy family" made a 
 'farewell trip uptown for the purpose of bidding our friends good-bye. 
 The Temple was, of course, visited, and a sincere farewell exchanged. 
 Sirs Burry and Taylor started off on a secret mission, only to return with 
 what appeared to be tear-dimmed eyes. Sir Beckert came back with an 
 armful of souvenirs, sufficient to start him in that business. 
 
 Among congenial friends whom we bade farewell were a number of 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 241 
 
 railroad representatives, whose previous courtesy had won our appreci- 
 ation, and whose good-fellowship we had enjoyed. 
 
 Among these was a quartet of Santa Fe men, who showed our party 
 every attention. They were H. H. Francisco, general freight agent at 
 Los Angeles, who was named after San Francisco or before it. He 
 was a royal entertainer, as was Fred E. Shellaberger, passenger agent in 
 Pittsburgh, who was in Los Angeles to greet us ; A. J. Kennedy, passen- 
 ger agent in Cleveland ; T. P. Chambers, contracting freight agent in Los 
 Angeles; Thomas W. Moses, of Los Angeles, traveling passenger agent, 
 who accompanied us for a time after leaving Los Angeles, and other 
 jovial, genial, affable gentlemen ; T. H. Goodman, general passenger 
 agent; R. A. Donaldson, and James Horsburgh, Jr., of the Southern 
 Pacific Company. In company with these pleasant companions we spent 
 a happy hour, during which the absence of E. F. Lalk, general freight 
 agent of the Santa Fe system in Pittsburgh was regretted by the entire 
 party. C. A. David, excursion agent for the Northwestern and Union 
 Pacific lines; E. P. Ensign, traveling passenger agent for the Union 
 Pacific ; P. O. Prince, traveling agent for the Northwestern ; William H. 
 Sutton, fraternal editor of the Brooklyn Eagle, and others, showed our 
 party special courtesies. 
 
 Shortly before 1 1 o'clock we started over the famous Santa Fe "kite- 
 shaped" track through the orange groves of Southern California. A 
 swing around the "kite-shaped" track carries one from Los Angeles back 
 to Los Angeles, through 166 miles of the finest orange country in the 
 world, without duplicating a mile. This bit of track, though named "kite- 
 shaped," resembles the figure eight in form, with the upper circle larger 
 than the lower. Pasadena, Santa Anita, Monrovia, Azusa, Pomona, On- 
 tario, Rialto, San Bernardino, Redlands, Mentone, Highland, Colton, 
 Riverside, Corona, Orange, Fullerton, La Mirada and back to Los 
 Angeles. This is the route as identified by the principal towns. Los 
 Angeles stands at the top of the kite or figure eight, and San Bernardino 
 is the point of crossing. 
 
 The whole country penetrated by the "kite-shaped" track is rich 
 with the scent of oranges and flowers, and of citrus fruits. Passing Pasa- 
 dena the train runs through the Santa Anita branch of "Lucky" Bald- 
 win for several miles. This is the home of the famous turfman and min- 
 ing millionaire. Pomona and Ontario are devoted to olive culture, while 
 orange and lemon groves embower the beautiful homes. San Bernar- 
 dino is one of the oldest of Southern California towns, having been 
 established since 1852. It is the commercial center of the surrounding 
 country, shelters the shops of the Santa Fe railroad, and is a town of 
 beauty. It is here that the smaller loop of the track begins. 
 
 In the foothills of the Santa Ana valley, which is included in the 
 lower loop of the track, lies the pretty town of Redlands, a modern, up-to- 
 (16) 
 
242 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 date community, less than 20 years old. It is a community of palatial 
 homes, grand avenues and of magnificent views. It is claimed that the 
 finest oranges in the world grow in Redlands and immediate vicinity. 
 Bear Valley Lake, which lies in the mountains above, is the source 
 which alleviates the thirst of the orange groves in the valley. 
 
 Passing San Bernardino again as one re-enters the upper loop, and 
 beyond numerous fruit-growing communities, lies the enterprising and 
 beautiful city of Riverside. Along the track at this point may be seen the 
 immense, main cement ditch, which feeds subsidiary ditches that dis- 
 tribute the much-needed water among the orange and lemon blooms. All 
 along the route of the "kite-shaped" track one is compelled to note the 
 absence of broken fences, cowlots and unpainted houses. One becomes 
 surprised at the uniform neatness, cleanliness, grace and taste in beauti- 
 fying. We marveled at the fine roads, the beauty of the orange groves, 
 skirting the very tracks, and the evenness of the hedges ; and as we 
 bowled along we entered a wilderness of odorous flowers shortly after 
 the noon hour, and speeding through it, excited, delighted and half per- 
 suaded that we were only the sport of a beautiful dream, lo ! we arrived 
 at Riverside. 
 
 As we stepped from the train to spend a few hours in a fuller enjoy- 
 ment of the beauties of the community, our ears met the sweet, welcom- 
 ing music of the chimes. As the soft pealing of the bells resounded, a 
 sensitiveness of welcome pervaded us. The chimes seemed endowed 
 with the most pleasing of all sounds we had heard ; enchanting, melodious 
 and rich blending in tone. The echo was like the long-drawn chord of 
 a church organ, infinitely softened by distance. 
 
 With this welcome ringing in our ears we boarded a car for the 
 hotel. It had become second nature with us to ride, hence we asked no 
 questions until we were seated. Then we learned that the hotel was but 
 a few blocks from the station, and it took a great deal of hurrying to pay 
 the conductor before we got off. 
 
 The Glenwood, known as "California's Mission Hotel," is pictur- 
 esquely beautiful, while a touch of romance is added by the marked mis- 
 sion style of the architecture. The building is long, low and cloistered, 
 inclosing a spacious court and surrounded by magnificent old trees and 
 stately palms. In the court, the Adobe or casino adjoins the Campanile, 
 whose sweet-chiming mission bells were still tolling when we arrived. 
 Facing the court, on the third floor, is the Paseo de las Palmas, a prome- 
 nade 700 feet long. The building carries out the mission scheme in every 
 detail, the furnishings being quaintly consistent with this idea. 
 
 The grounds about the building were as beautifully kept as fine gar- 
 dening would permit. Hedges, shrubs, semi-tropical plants and trees 
 were trained to grow in accurately symmetrical shapes. Flowers and 
 blooms and the sweet scent of the orange blossoms lent fragrance to the 
 
RIVERSIDE AND REDLANDS, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 I Riverside's Famous Magnolia Avenue ( 10 miles long, 200 feet wide ). 2 GlenWood Chime. 3 Cactus Garden, A. S. White 
 Park (400 varieties). 4 A Few Riverside Roses. 5-9 Roof Promenade. 6 Pachappa Mountain and Orange Groves. 7 The Old 
 Well, at The Glenwood. 8 Picking Oranges near Snow Fields. 10-11-12-13-15-16-17-19-21-22-24 The Glenwood. 14 
 Riverside Pioneer Rose Tree. 18 Oranges and Orange Blossoms. 20 Carnegie Library. 23 Palm on Arlington Heights. 25 
 President Roosevelt, planting the " Original Orange Tree " at The Glenwood. 26 Palm Drive. 27 A Redlands Home. 28-29-30-31 
 " The Anchorage " and its Grounds. 32 U. S. Government Indian School. 33 View from Smiley Heights, Redlands. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 243 
 
 air, and a charm to the surroundings that was unsurpassable. Every 
 nook and corner of the Glenwood that lends an opportunity to carry out 
 the mission or cloister style of architecture has been graced with an arch, 
 from which a bell is pendant ; even the spacious dining hall and lounging 
 quarters are suggestive of the period of Junipero Serra. 
 
 Following a most satisfying meal, carriages awaited us at the hotel 
 entrance, and we at once entered upon one of the most delightful drives 
 this country affords. Riverside enjoys the distinction of being the larg- 
 est orange growing settlement in the world, the production annually being 
 three million boxes of oranges and lemons. It is the home of the seed- 
 less orange, which has won such popular favor. 
 
 A view of these magnificent orchards, bearing their wealth of golden 
 fruits, and the beautiful and highly ornamental private grounds and resi- 
 dences, bedecked with almost every bloom and flower that the earth is 
 capable of producing, is one that cannot easily be described. 
 
 Among the beautiful thoroughfares affording a most interesting drive 
 is Magnolia avenue, which, without the aid of artificial improvements, 
 ranks with the greatest in the world in magnificent proportions. It is 
 150 feet wide and 10 miles long, and is arched continuously with tall 
 and graceful pepper, palm, date-palm, magnolia and other tropical trees. 
 
 It is all wonderfully beautiful! One gazes and stares, and tries to 
 understand that it is real. To the visitor, the new world of beauty is 
 stupefying, and the imagination seems encouraged by some exquisite 
 dream. Not only was the continuous archway one of remarkable accu- 
 racy and symmetrical form, but the shrubbery and hedges that lined the 
 sides of the drive for the full 10 miles were trimmed with pyramids, 
 squares, spirals and all manner of fanciful shapes, with an accuracy 
 that did not permit one leaf to vary from the desired design. Flowers 
 grew in riotous profusion, but in such figure formation as the hand 
 of man desired. In a word, the whole driveway was so fanciful, so 
 exquisite, that it was difficult to believe that it was really nature. 
 
 Of striking beauty to the visitor is the continuous row of date- 
 palm trees. They are of great height and bear no leaves elsewhere 
 but upon the very top, where the palms spread out like a large open 
 fan. Beneath is a long and heavy shaggy coat of fibrous vegetation, 
 the same in color and appearance as a lion's mane. The trunk of the 
 tree has an outward formation similar to the pineapple, with layers of 
 bark that dovetail each other. 
 
 The road was perfectly dustless, made so by the liberal application 
 of fuel oil, which is rolled into the earth and darkens the ground into 
 almost a black. We passed scores of beautiful orange groves and found 
 great interest in the irrigation scheme by which they receive nourish- 
 ment. Riverside has 300 miles of irrigation canals, (concrete ditches) 
 which are supplied by Santa Ana river and Warm creek, to which 
 
244 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 has been added the flow of 100 artesian wells. This gives an aggregate 
 of over 6,000 miner's inches of continuous flow, or a capacity of eighty 
 million gallons a day. The orange grower has but to turn on the 
 faucet and the water comes shooting down, overflowing the canals and 
 runs into the orange grove, where the streamlets are trained with the 
 hoe, to feed the long rows of trees. 
 
 A. S. White Park, which is one of the points of interest to the 
 visitor, is devoted almost entirely to the culture of every specie of 
 cactus. Over 400 varieties, in every imaginable shape, are on exhi- 
 bition, and vary in size from veritable trees to mere atoms. On the out- 
 skirts of Riverside is the Sherman Indian School, conducted by the 
 government. Spacious grounds surround the buildings, which are also 
 in the prevailing quaint mission style of architecture. The Indians 
 attending the school are of a high degree of intelligence, the tuition 
 being entirely in the higher course. 
 
 On the return journey, we stopped to gather golden ripe oranges 
 from the tree. What a revelation it afforded! How vastly and en- 
 chantingly different, in taste and flavor, from the commercial article 
 purchased a thousand miles from the place of growth ! The ground was 
 strewn with oranges, which, instead of decaying, had become sunbaked; 
 and when opened and eaten, afford an exceptionally sweet delicacy. 
 
 As we neared the hotel, the chimes that had greeted us at noon 
 were again sending forth their welcoming peal. Arriving at the 
 hostelry, and seating ourselves in the cozy dining room, one of our com- 
 panions suggested to the proprietor that the chimes play "Onward 
 Christian Soldiers" as a hymn appropriate to the occasion. 
 
 The proprietor not only acquiesced, but was delighted at the idea, 
 and telephoning to the belfry, delivered such order. A moment later 
 the solemn, majestic, tolling of the mission-like chimes began to strike 
 out, in measured tread, the opening strains of that famous anc? beauti- 
 ful hymn. During the entire time in which our meal was being served, 
 the slow, measured peal of the bells kept at their task, ringing out the 
 melody of that sterling hymn. 
 
 After dinner we had opportunity to stroll about the beautiful 
 grounds. We engaged in walks and talks, while the mission bells re- 
 lentlessly pealed forth "Onward Christian Soldiers" without abatement. 
 Presently we received word that the time of our departure had arrived. 
 We felt sincerely sorry that we could not linger longer in this land of 
 fruit and plenty. The scenery and weather conditions were so alluring, 
 and Nature dressed in her prettiest gown it was difficult to turn 
 away from these things without regret. 
 
 Boarding our "Special" the mission bells were still sending forth 
 their music to "Onward Christian Soldiers." As the train pulled out, 
 and we began to speed rapidly away, the tolling grew fainter and fainter ; 
 
and slowly and gradually began to fade out of hearing. Note by 
 note was being lost, and yet enough was audible for a time, to carry 
 along the melody. It was indeed impressive and appealed to our emo- 
 tional feelings, as the solemn tolling in the distance bade us "Onward" 
 "Onward" "Onward Christian Soldiers." 
 
 Leaving Riverside we turned our faces homeward for the first time, 
 and were to reach The Needles, the eastern extremity of southern Cali- 
 fornia, early in the morning. The ride during the evening and night 
 carried us through orchards of olives, prunes, apricots, peaches, figs, 
 almonds, oranges, lemons and other fruits which have brought fame to 
 the land of the sunset. The railroad finds its course ever upward as 
 it passes the San Bernardino Mountains, and during one stage of the 
 route an ascent of 2,700 feet is made in 25 miles. 
 
 As the shades of night began to dim the visions of the interesting 
 scenery, we sought consolation by gathering in the commissary car. 
 While entertainment was at its height, everything was brought to a 
 standstill by a series of detonations that resounded from the "stag" 
 coach. 
 
 We entered the car to learn the trouble, and ran into it. Berths 
 were lying in the middle of the aisle. Would-be sleepers were sprawling 
 about. In some instances, the berths were left intact and only the 
 occupant and bed-clothes were struggling together in the aisle. The 
 victims were positive that their embarrassment was not due to an earth- 
 quake and would not listen to the theory that the train had been attacked 
 by marauders. They had their own suspicions, and many a terrible 
 revenge was planned. 
 
 Sir D. B. Watson, who is known as "doctor" because he sells drugs 
 that "make human hearts beat again brings the dead back to life 
 makes the blind see and the lame walk" attended to the needs of the 
 afflicted in the stag coach. 
 
 During the dethronement of the early sleepers, some unseen force 
 succeeded in hurling the bed clothing out of the berth of Sir Beckert 
 while he was dreaming of Allegheny and home. He awakened with 
 a start and a chill. Naturally, his thought and hand turned to the 
 push button, which summons the porter. For some known, or unknown 
 reason, the wires were disconnected, and Sir Beckert pushed violently 
 but in vain. Realizing his predicament, he dramatically cried : 
 "Woodzie !" "Woodzie !" Woodzie !" The Pullman conductor re- 
 sponded in haste, and learning the sad dilemma of Sir Beckert, handed 
 him sufficient clothing to relieve his embarrassment and his chill. 
 
 It was past midnight when we reached Barstow, Cal., on the main 
 line of the Santa Fe railroad. East of Barstow, for many miles ahead 
 lay the Mojave Desert, a wing of the Great American Desert, the bleak- 
 
246 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 est waste in the country, with Death Valley only a score or more miles 
 to the northward. The northern offshoot of the Great American Desert 
 is known as Humboldt Desert, which spreads west from Ogden, Utah; 
 while the southern arm is designated as the Mojave Desert. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 HE ride to The Needles, though a barren, hopeless waste of sand 
 and alkali, offered startling contrast to the land of flowers, fruit 
 and sunshine we had just left. 
 
 Our breakfast in the commissary car was especially satisfy- 
 ing. Not that this was unusual, nor that meals were not always relished, 
 but the unvarying, desolate desert without, was in contrast to the com- 
 fort we enjoyed. As a matter of fact, the larders of the commissary 
 car were never permitted to go unreplenished. Sir Flechsig not only 
 performed his duty, but more; and sought to be prepared to meet the 
 onslaught of a hungry constituency at all times, and made continual 
 personal efforts to secure such tempting morsels, as appealed to his 
 "boarders." 
 
 We arrived at The Needles at 9 o'clock on the morning of Friday, 
 September 16. Here, on the threshold of both California and Arizona, 
 we met a group of Indians, the remnants of the once powerful and 
 warlike Mojave tribe. They were not the tall, sinewy, heroic-looking- 
 red men that you read about in the romantic novel. The group was a 
 rusty one; ragged and barefooted, uncombed and unclean; and by 
 instinct, education and profession, beggars. They trooped after us 
 while we tarried at the station, and it was impossible to get rid of them. 
 They followed us just as the village boy follows the circus parade, or 
 colored folks a negro band. They were attired in their native blankets, 
 with little attempt toward neatness or cleanliness. Both men and 
 women were lazy and slothful, and seemed to eke out an existence by 
 loitering about the station offering beads, bows and arrows, and trinkets 
 for sale to travelers. 
 
 As we left The Needles and were about to cross the Colorado River 
 to enter Arizona, we were inspired to take a look of farewell upon the 
 state we were about to leave. We would fain have remained a few 
 days longer, for it seemed that we would never tire of its scenery, 
 climate and sweet-scented air. We had been wonderfully favored by 
 weather conditions, not having encountered a rainstorm since leaving 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 247 
 
 Yellowstone Park. Rain rarely falls in California between the first 
 of May and the latter part of October. During this season the won- 
 derous and fairy-like powers of irrigation are appealed to. In the Fall 
 the rainy season begins not that it is a season of continuous rain, but 
 one in which rain may be expected, rather than wholly unexpected. 
 
 We were carrying away memories, which promise to remain ever 
 verdant, of the bounteous fruits, flowers and vegetation, the exquisite 
 homes and happy conditions. Surely it is a sumptuous banquet that 
 Dame Nature has spread throughout California for those who will come 
 and partake. 
 
 Four conditions have served to make California a land of fame and 
 plenty. Mineral wealth, climate, irrigation and railroads. It is true 
 that Nature wrought a wondrous work to bring such glory to an area 
 150 miles wide and 1,000 miles long, with less population than the city 
 of Chicago. But it was man that encouraged Nature to do her best in 
 California. Irrigation is the golden key that opened the door to success 
 and plenty. 
 
 The methods of irrigation employed depend entirely upon the re- 
 sources and peculiarities of the region to be supplied. Irrigation in its 
 simplest form, is accomplished by sinking wells, a large number of 
 which are artesian, and conducting water from them to the land to be 
 irrigated. Usually, a pumping plant is necessary. Where flowing 
 streams with sufficient fall abound, the large irrigation canal, with 
 laterals, is the natural method. In some districts corporations have 
 established irrigating plants, treasuring the water in natural water-sheds 
 in the mountain sides, and releasing it at the demand of the fruit- 
 grower, who pays a rental in proportion to the acreage he has under 
 cultivation. Under irrigation the fruit-grower and grain-raiser becomes 
 the director and controller of his crops and fortunes. He is not depend- 
 ent upon the whims of the weather elements. No inopportune rain 
 has he to fear, nor is he in dread of an extended dry season. For him 
 the sun always shines. His irrigation canal with its many lateral fumes 
 and furrows, enables him to supply moisture just when needed, and 
 he can force or retard the growth of his trees and plants at will. Irri- 
 gation has not only reclaimed great areas of vast and parched desert 
 lands in California and transformed them into the greatest orchards and 
 gardens in America, but the same power is destined to work the same 
 magic spell over untold acreage which still lies untouched by the hand 
 of man. Within the lifetime of many who are still with us, a celebrated 
 statesman, of world-wide reputation, arose in Congress and vigorously 
 denounced the proposition to admit California to the Union, on the 
 ground that it was a worthless and forbidding expanse of arid desert, 
 which would never be of any use to the United States. 
 
 While in later years the mining industry of California has been over- 
 
shadowed to a great extent by her progress in the development of the 
 soil, mining still forms an important factor. Since the first discovery 
 of gold in the state, California has furnished the world with a billion 
 and one-half in precious metals, and the mining industry is still in its 
 youth. Modern machinery had made productive claims that were 
 thought to have been unprofitable. The skirmish line of intrepid 
 prospectors is still moving over the California mountains, in greater 
 number than ever before, seeking through canyon and valley for surface 
 tracings which give promise of hidden wealth. California was built 
 on a gold foundation. The discovery of precious metal gave her 
 fame, prestige and position, and from this royal birth she has grown, 
 and is ever growing, in regal style. 
 
 With all its natural wealth; with all the energy of its progressive 
 and enterprising people ; with all its beauty and health-giving atmosphere 
 and climate, California today would be but a depopulated Eden were it 
 not for its network of modernly constructed and highly efficient rail- 
 roads. 
 
 Ordinarily the advantages of a railroad to a community and state, 
 lies in the fact that it places the section through which it passes in com- 
 munication with the outer world. Railroads have done that and more 
 for California. They have placed the outer world in communication 
 with that state, for it is the land of Canaan of modern times, and 
 when the "iron horse" first puffed its way into this land of plenty, it 
 opened it up to the world at large it laid abundance at the door of all 
 America and performed a greater service to the universe than it did to 
 the state, for California had everything in her own right that was self- 
 sustaining. 
 
 The railroad facilities of the state have ever been abreast of the 
 times and are equal, if not superior, to that of any other state in com- 
 parison to population. The great Santa Fe system has furnished Cali- 
 fornia with a trans-continental line, whose value to the state cannot be 
 overestimated. It reaches tide water at San Francisco Bay as well as 
 at Los Angeles and San Diego. It has many branch lines which open 
 up the interior, and aside from its excellent passenger service, has estab- 
 lished a fast fruit line service that has brought the grape of famous Cali- 
 fornia vineyards to New England tables before it has had time to 
 encourage a blemish. It carries the blushing pear and peach to the 
 furthermost section of the land without sufficient lapse in time to mar 
 its complexion, while it offers the means for transporting the world- 
 renown orange in its full sweetness and maturity. 
 
 The Southern Pacific railroad affords another trans-continental out- 
 let, with branches to both Ogden and New Orleans. A third trans- 
 continental line, which is about completed, enters the southern portion 
 of the state with a tidewater terminal at San Pedro. This is the Salt 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 249 
 
 Lake route which will stretch across California, Nevada and Utah to 
 Salt Lake City, and thence eastward across the continent. 
 
 The California Northwestern railroad, which finds an ocean terminal 
 in San Francisco Bay, passes through a highly productive country and 
 bids fair to develop into another trans-continental line through Portland, 
 Oregon. Further to the west, and following the trend of the Marin 
 counties, lies the North Shore railway, which stretches from tide water 
 through the redwood forests. Aside from these, there are innumerable 
 electric lines which bring together all sections and communities in the 
 state and which are as modern as they are efficient. These railroads 
 and electric lines have brought the natural splendors of California to 
 the world, have done more than anything else to encourage the mar- 
 velous growth of the state and will serve to increase this growth many 
 fold in the near future. 
 
 An element which is nature's own, and which has played a prominent 
 part in making California, is the climate of that happy land. From the 
 fact that California's most southern city lies on a parallel with Charles- 
 ton, N. C, and that its northern boundary is practically on the same 
 parallel with Boston, one might infer that the sub-tropical climate of 
 the south is adapted to orange culture, while the northern portion must 
 necessarily be subject to the blustering winters found on equal parallels 
 on the Atlantic Coast. This is erroneous, as there is practically no dif- 
 ference in horticultural possibilities in the two extremes of the state. 
 
 California may be divided into three zones: The coast, valley and 
 sierra zones. Along her 1,200 miles of coast the climate is cool through- 
 out the summer, while in winter frost is almost unknown, due in part 
 to the fact that the broad, equable Japanese ocean-current flows near the 
 shore. 
 
 The valley zone stretches over 600 miles parallel with the coast, 
 and is bounded on the east by the high foothills of the mountains. This 
 zone has high temperature in summer with little if any rain, while in 
 winter its temperature is lower than that of the coast, with abundant 
 rain. 
 
 In the sierra zone the climate varies according to the altitude. To 
 a height of 3,000 feet it is warm and genial, both summer and winter, 
 while in the upper ranges snow flies from 8 to 10 months in the year. In 
 most of the valleys strawberries flourish 10 months in the year and 
 roses bloom almost continuously. With these inspiring surroundings, 
 one may look up to the mountain peaks, clad in mantles of snow, which 
 rise out of beds of flowers and fruit. 
 
 The success of California cannot be attributed to any one single 
 condition. It is the co-operation of several conditions, working in har- 
 mony, that has brought fame, wealth and happiness to that land. With- 
 out climate the orange, lemon, fig, almond, prune, olive, lime and fruit 
 
250 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 and flowers of all kinds could not exist. Without the necessary soil 
 they would never spring from the earth. Without scientific irrigation 
 the soil would parch, and vegetation would die from thirst. Without 
 railroads there would be no incentive to turn the state into one vast 
 garden of flowers and orchard of fruit. 
 
 So vast is California that much land still lies in its natural state 
 of barren waste, parched and dry, awaiting the rejuvenation which irri- 
 gation will surely bring forth. With these possibilities, and the constant 
 onward trend of science, and the enterprise of railroads, make the 
 future of California full of glorious promise. But there is another, and 
 newer factor, which will work wonders in the development of that state. 
 Our far eastern possessions and the great possibilities offered in the 
 Orient, since the termination of the Japanese-Russian war, will tend 
 to make the "Golden Gate" operate both ways, and the outpouring and 
 inpouring of commerce between the two continents will of necessity be 
 compelled to pass through the state, and leave a trail of gold in its wake. 
 
 Passing into Arizona many miles of desolate country lay before 
 us; a land whose soil some day will become equally as rich as that of 
 the orchards and vineyards of California, but the desert knows no vege- 
 tation but the cactus and sage brush. For miles and miles over this 
 silent and mournful expanse we saw but six human beings. These were 
 railroad laborers, clad only in long coarse shirts, such as were worn by 
 the little pickaninnies on Southern plantations, in the days before the 
 Civil war and a large Mexican hat. They were bare-footed and were 
 working diligently with pick and shovel. The raiment of modern civi- 
 lization is not adapted for wear between the torrid rays of the sun and 
 the burning desert plains. 
 
 Further on we saw a handful of sheep and cattle roaming aimlessly 
 about, doing what they honestly could to secure a living ; but the chances 
 seemed against them. What they could find to subsist on, aside from 
 the unpalatable cactus, was a mystery we could not solve. 
 
 Here and there we observed a pile of stones heaped up along the 
 track and recognized in them the custom of marking boundaries an 
 idea that dates back into ancient biblical history. There were no stone 
 walls, fences or posts to indicate the termination of one man's possession 
 and the beginning of another. These random piles of stones served that 
 purpose. 
 
 This method of establishing territorial rights also serves to illus- 
 trate the rugged honesty of the far west. It is reasonable to presume 
 if this crude method of establishing real estate possessions prevailed in 
 the east, that many properties would attain remarkable growths merely 
 by the outlay of manual labor performed at night. Such elastic boundary 
 lines elsewhere might be the means of bringing to the attention of the 
 public many alluring "plan of lots" inducements, which the promoter 
 
" Santa Fe all the ff-'aj," Courtesy Mr. Frank S. Tha 
 
 THE CAMERA IN THE SOUTHWEST. 
 
 I_pj ma Indians Wickup. 2 A Study in Bronze. 3 The Border of the Desert The San Jacinto Mountains Guarding Palm Val- 
 ley 4 Pueblo of Wr.lpi. 5-11 Indian Pueblos Z.uni, New Mexico. 6 Pueblo of Tesuque. 7 One of Two House Pyramids, Taos. 
 8 Pueblo Indians. 9 Zuni Drilling Turquoise and Indian Silversmith. 10 The Horse Trail, Acoma. 12 Mesa and Pueblo of 
 Acoma. 13 Cactus. 14 The Indian of California and Saboba Indian basket-maker. 16 Pueblo of Laguna from Santa Fe Tram. 17 
 Jeditoh Springs iS Walpi Foot Trail. 19 Isleta Women Offering Pottery to Santa F6 Train Passengers. 20 San Francisco 
 Mountains. 21 The Walpi Lagon Altar. 22 A Hopi Maiden. 23 Hopi Man and Navaho Woman Weaving a Blanket. 24 The Hair 
 Dresser Moqui Indians. 25 Moqui Basket Weaver. 26 Indian Pottery, etc. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 251 
 
 could afford to offer at more liberal terms than the usual "dollar-down- 
 and-dollar-a-week-the-rest-of-your-life" proposition. 
 
 Continuing over the apparently uninhabited dreary waste, we came 
 upon the unpretentious town of Yucca, shortly before noon. As the 
 train came to a stop we observed a pile of peculiar shaped rocks near 
 the station, which appeared to have been scooped out, honey-combed 
 with eye-holes. 
 
 These stones immediately offered possibilities to the souvenir collec- 
 tors, who never lost an opportunity to carry away portions of the country 
 we had visited. Sirs Reel, Jack, Watson and Biddle saw their duty and 
 left the train with the purpose of seizing the rocks. They had already 
 freighted the commissary car with junk from Salt Lake City, Pike's 
 Peak, Yellowstone Park, San Francisco, Mt. Lowe and every other point 
 and community visited. Wood, stone, iron and paper, in all shapes and 
 forms, from young trees to rusty padlocks comprised the collection. 
 Some had collected bones, which were laboriously carried to the car 
 from great distances, only to be disappointed when Drs. Benkart and 
 Pears passed careful examination upon them, and pronounced them 
 relics of mules and cattle. 
 
 Sirs Reel, Jack and Watson soon returned with a sack full of the 
 honey-combed rock, and were going after another when Sir Steinmiller 
 suggested that they better desist, unless the idea was to erect a stone 
 house in the commissary car. Already the quarters of the souvenir 
 hunters were converted into museums of alleged "antiquity." Sir Reel 
 had several ghastly-looking bones labeled "piece of the mummy of the 
 great Indian chief Rain-in-the-Face, found in the caves of Yellowstone 
 Park." These we identified as being ribs of some unfortunate steer that 
 had died from thirst on the desert. 
 
 In his anxiety to complete his collection and have a souvenir from 
 every point visited, Sir Reel broke a stone in two, labeling one portion 
 "from Faithful geyser" and marking the other half, "from Del Monte." 
 Sir Watson, who had purchased a box of shells at Catalina Island, 
 labeled them as coming from 30 different celebrated points perhaps 
 1,000 miles apart, and many of which we had not, and would not visit 
 on the tour. As a matter of fact, the proprietor of the lunch room on 
 Pike's Peak told us that the summit of the peak was 10 feet lower than 
 it was before we came, owing to the persistence with which the souvenir 
 hunters of our party had gathered up sections of the peak. 
 
 One souvenir which met with misfortune was an ostrich egg that 
 
 (ain't goin' to tell) brought from Pasedena. He said he 
 
 bought it. His intention was to take it home for use as a paper-weight 
 However, some member of the party wanted to find out if the egg would 
 hatch, and how pretty a young ostrich would look, and placed the egg 
 in 's berth before he retired had been in bed only 
 
252 Al MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 a few moments, when he leaped out with a scream, looking like the 
 "yellow peril." What was left of the egg had to be swept up. 
 
 Sir Staiger had secured a cuckoo clock in Los Angeles which at night 
 lent hideousness to the desert by it distressing "hoo hoo! hoo hoo! 
 hoo hoo!" For a nervous man it was distressing, but Sir William is a 
 man of nerve and bought it as a present for a friend at home, with 
 whom he promised to "get even" if the opportunity ever presented 
 itself. 
 
 The clock was the loudest and one of the most obstreperous souve- 
 nirs we had to contend with, and a scheme was hatched one night to get 
 rid of it. An indignation meeting over the clock was held in secret 
 in the commissary car, and by ballot one was chosen to "murder" the 
 clock and the cuckoo. 
 
 Entering the "stag" coach, the one assigned to the deed managed 
 to secure the instrument of torture while the owner was peacefully 
 sleeping. Carrying the clock to the door of the car, the avenger 
 hurled it out into the stilly night. Whether due to fright, or because it 
 was time to do so, cannot be said, but just as the clock sailed into the 
 air, it screamed forth a piercing "hoo hoo ! hoo hoo !" that was almost 
 frantic. 
 
 Johnston, the colored commissary chef, whose ears were trained to 
 chicken hunting, heard the cry in the darkness, and without considering 
 his danger, was about to spring from the train and give professional 
 attention to what he believed to be a chicken without friends. It was 
 only by compulsion that he was detained, and no argument could explain 
 away his impression that a chicken had really called for aid from out 
 of the darkness. 
 
 Arriving at Kingman for luncheon we found the first of the Har- 
 vey restaurants, a string of eating houses, which the Santa Fe has 
 made famous and which have aided materially in making the Santa 
 Fe famous. The Harvey restaurant is a happy regulation in railroad 
 government, because of the fact that ample time is allotted for a meal. 
 No five minute rushing down of flabby rolls, muddy coffee, questionable 
 eggs, gutta-percha beef, and pies whose conception is a dark secret to 
 all but the pastry cook who created them. 
 
 We were permitted to sit down and enjoy a full table d'hote dinner, 
 with ample time to bite everything we swallowed. After we had par- 
 taken liberally of a toothsome meal, we still had time to promenade on 
 the station platform for a few moments before the train resumed its 
 course. Not only was this experience pleasingly new, but the wonder 
 of it all was that we found everything appetizing and complete, even 
 though we were on the desolate desert. 
 
 That the Harvey restaurants "draw the color line" was made appar- 
 ent by the fact that Burry was refused admittance to the dining room 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 253 
 
 when he appeared in his many-colored sweater. He was informed that 
 the sweater would be out of place, because it was so loud that the 
 waitresses might not be able to hear the orders. He was respectfully 
 asked to don a coat, or cage the sweater in some graceful manner. 
 
 Mingling among us on the station platform were a number of 
 Indians, persistently offering their wares for sale. Several squaws 
 were carrying papooses and offered the babes for exhibition at five 
 cents a peep. 
 
 As the route beyond Kingman offers many steep grades, two engines 
 were attached to our "special." Sir Coombs announced the fact. Sirs 
 Baumann and Burry understood him to say two Indians had attacked 
 our train and immediately took to the war path. They hurriedly boarded 
 the train and made a vigorous search for the supposed train robbers. It 
 was only upon the positive assurance of "Woodzie" that they were mis- 
 taken that they decided to relax their efforts. 
 
 Meanwhile, those who were not enjoying themselves at the expense 
 of the would-be rescuers, were being entertained by a number of sup- 
 posed mine agents, who offered all sorts of alluring inducements to en- 
 courage the purchase of what purported to be valuable mining stock. 
 Par value was no consideration, and $10,000 worth of mining stock was 
 offered for sale from $4 down to anything the buyer wished to offer. 
 However, no one was eager to pour cash into the pockets of the energetic 
 agents, or invest in a mine unseen. 
 
 We left Kingman with fond remembrances of our brief stay and 
 unique experiences. Our train set out at a fast pace, and this was noted 
 with keen interest, because of the fact that fuel oil was being used instead 
 of coal. It is said that this sort of fuel offers a more uniform heat 
 than coal, is easier to carry, and that its liberal production in the west 
 places it at the disposal of the railroads at a very nominal cost. Oil 
 and water are carried over the desert in huge tank cars. "Kunnie" 
 stood at the side door of the commissary car all day long (kodak under 
 arm) studying human nature and "jollying" the chef. He smoked 
 royal Havana cigars continually ; we could inhale the aroma in the rear 
 of the observation car. We were under the impression the engine was 
 still using coal, but when we were informed that oil was being used, 
 the odor of the smoke was attributed to "Kunnie's" Havanas. At 
 night we occasionally saw a blaze of fire from his cigar he was 
 taking pictures by flash light. 
 
 While en route, a mock trial was suggested in the "stag" coach 
 and the necessary officials were selected; though some difficulty was 
 experienced in finding a sufficiently guilty prisoner. However, after a 
 careful inquiry, it was discovered that Sir Burry had fallen asleep, and 
 while this in itself was deemed a crime of the deepest dye, it was further 
 
254 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 agreed to bring the charge against him of stealing the ice from the 
 water-cooler. 
 
 It was unanimously decided that Sir Aeberli should serve as judge, 
 and he was provided with clerks and a court crier. Sir Sample was 
 the counsel representing the state and Sir Bader was the lawyer assigned 
 to the difficult duty of defending the prisoner. A tipstaff, constables 
 and sheriff were also appointed by common consent. 
 
 At last the case was ready for a hearing and Sheriff Heckel assisted 
 by Constable Coombs went after the prisoner, each armed with bows 
 and arrows procured from the Indians. The prisoner was awakened, 
 and when apprised of the charge against him, made a vigorous denial. 
 Of course, like all other suspects, he did not wish to serve as prisoner, 
 but it was here the strong arms of the sheriff and constable exerted 
 themselves. He was brought before the bar of injustice. 
 
 Judge Aeberli jerked a barrel up-side-down, placed a box on the 
 top of this (as his seat of justice), put his fatigue cap on the back of his 
 head, borrowed a chew of tobacco from the prisoner, and declared: 
 "Now, boys, the court is open. The first fellow that says a word unless 
 I speak to him will get paralyzed." 
 
 After much challenging a jury was impaneled. The porter was 
 excused by both sides from serving on the jury, because he admitted 
 that he never drank ice water. Sir Biddle was not permitted to serve 
 on the jury for expressing the opinion that ice was never placed in rail- 
 road water-coolers. Sir Benkart was challenged by the defense, as he 
 stated that he had known the prisoner for some time and noticed that 
 he always took things coolly. 
 
 After the jury was in the box Attorney Bader for the defense, 
 challenged several jurymen, when the prisoner announced : "Stop ! They 
 are all friends of mine ! I want you to challenge the judge!" 
 
 "Your words shall be few," thundered the judge from the bench (or 
 barrel.) "We want nothing but silence and but little of that ! Paste 
 that in your hat for future reference! Now tell your story!" 
 
 The first witness for the state was Schwerd. He testified that 
 he had seen railroad employees place a large piece of ice in the cooler 
 at Kingman, and that he had turned on the faucet of the cooler shortly 
 after and that nothing but water came out. He was sharply cross 
 examined but to no avail. The next witness, Sir Seiling, testified that 
 he had heard the prisoner admit "taking cold" near Kingman, and that 
 after the ice was missed the prisoner did not deny an accusation that 
 he "took the cake." Other witnesses gave equally damaging evidence. 
 
 The defense called Sir Lowrie, who stated that he was present when 
 the prisoner was searched, and that no trace of the ice was found 
 on his person. However under cross-examination, he acknowledged 
 that the prisoner had admitted, during a card game, that he had "cold 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 255 
 
 feet." Another witness for the defense, Sir Steinmiller, testified that 
 he had sought a drink of water after the alleged disappearance of the 
 ice, and that the tank still bore the inscription "water cooler." This 
 point was used to demonstrate the fact that the water could not have 
 been "cooler" if the ice was gone. 
 
 Eloquent pleas were then made before the jury by the counsel for 
 both sides ; the prosecution dwelling upon the enormity of the crime of 
 stealing ice upon the desert, while the defense held that the charge of the 
 theft of a piece of ice was a "cold conspiracy." 
 
 When Prosecutor Sample started to sum up his case, he was 
 gentle, mild and quiet in manner; but gradually, carrying the jury with 
 him, he became enthusiastic. He thundered, he roared, he whooped, 
 he howled, he jarred the windows and doors, he sawed the air, he split 
 the horizon with his clarion notes, he tipped over the barrel (or seat 
 of justice) and shed a few suspender buttons while the prisoner shed 
 tears. Of all the mighty masters of speech, and addresses to the jury, 
 history has consecrated a place for him, for the manner in which he 
 forged and launched his thunder. 
 
 Attorney Bader for the defense, was full of language and dis- 
 pensed it with a liberal hand. Like the dictionary, one word led on to 
 another. He maintained, among other things, that: "evil is connected 
 with matter, and aside from matter we do not find evil existing (the 
 ice melted). That is true. At least, such evil as we might find apart 
 from matter, would be outside the jurisdiction of the court. Evil and 
 matter are inseparable. So what's the matter? 
 
 The jury deliberated at length, and brought in the verdict of "rob- 
 bery in the thirty-second degree." The loss being ice, the learned 
 jurymen naturally settled upon the thirty-second degree because of its 
 being the freezing point. 
 
 In passing sentence upon the prisoner, who persistently denied his 
 guilt, the judge reviewed the seriousness of the offense, declaring that 
 even diamonds and gold could be returned, but ice once stolen could 
 never be wholly replaced. He then announced that he would be 
 especially lenient, because of the previous good character of the prisoner, 
 and sentenced him to the commissary car to serve refreshments. 
 
 After the prisoner had faithfully worked out his sentence to the 
 satisfaction of a large and enthusiastic audience, the gentlemen of the 
 party were in receipt of a kind invitation extended by the ladies, to be 
 their guests at an entertainment which the ladies promised to provide. 
 Using the abutting platforms of two coaches as a stage, they presented 
 a program of song and recitations, which proved to be one of the most 
 pleasing entertainments that it was our privilege to witness. 
 
 Having previously passed the small settlements of Hackberry and 
 Peach Springs, we arrived at Seligman, where the Pacific time changes 
 
256 A MERRY CRUSAjDE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 to Mountain time. The latter is an hour faster than the former, or two 
 hours slower than Pittsburgh time. We interviewed our watches at 
 this point, and made the necessary corrections, after which cards were 
 suggested, this diversity was indulged in as we passed the town of Gleed 
 and arrived at Ash Fork. 
 
 Ash Fork is an important railroad junction. Here the Santa Fe, 
 Prescott & Phoenix railroad, which is a branch of the Santa Fe system, 
 connects with the main line and traversing south and southeast, enter- 
 ing a rich mining region and communicates with several important points 
 for a distance of 275 miles. Passing through a country which is as rich 
 in scenery as it is in minerals, one reaches the important city of Phoenix 
 within a half day. Nearby is the famous Vulture mine, which has pro 
 duced $20,000,000 in ore. Near Prescott some engineering problems 
 have been solved by rock-cuts, trestles, detours and loops. World- 
 famous mineral developments lie about the vicinity of Prescott. Here 
 are the Congress and Rich Hill gold mines. The great United Verde 
 copper mine is at Jerome, reached by a crooked narrow gauge line 
 which passes through a wild country. 
 
 As we left Ash Fork night was falling fast. The fading of sun- 
 light and the approach of the deep eventide shadows cast a dreary 
 desolation over the desert. A glance from the car window swayed one 
 with a solitude that had the touch of romance. For one to venture 
 upon that unfertile and forsaken waste at night, would be like renoun- 
 cing the world, and casting oneself into utter oblivion. Eye and mind 
 were both bewildered as we centered our gaze upon the interior of our 
 brightly lighted, comfortable, and cheerful cars. 
 
 The hour was late when we arrived at Williams. It was here we 
 were to take the new branch of the Santa Fe road, which brings the, 
 passenger to the very rim of the Grand Canyon. The route is 65 
 miles, and stands as a monument to triumphant engineering skill, and 
 its accomplishment was only attained after the expenditure of several 
 fortunes. 
 
 The road is built across a slightly rolling mesa; in places thickly 
 wooded, in others open. By daylight the snow-capped San Francisco 
 Peaks can be seen on the eastern horizon, while Kendricks, Sitgreaves 
 and Williams mountains are also visible. Red Butte, thirty miles 
 distant, is a prominent landmark, and before reaching the terminus, the 
 train climbs a long, high ridge and enters the Coconino Forest, which 
 resembles a natural park. The grade at times was so steep that three 
 engines were used after we left Williams. 
 
 As we sped towards the Grand Canyon station every mind was 
 trained in expectancy of what we were to behold on the morrow. The 
 beauties and magnificence which the canyon affords are of such wide 
 reputation that we were impatient to see and realize it. Every con- 
 
versation turned to the one topic. Just before we reached the canyon 
 our train came to a sudden stop, to await the passing of the "Special" 
 of Pittsburgh Commandery, No. I. This was a tremendously heavy 
 train, and the largest passenger train which had ever crossed the 
 continent. Our Praters were returning from the canyon, and as we 
 awaited their passing, a general order was issued to give them a rous- 
 ing hurrah. In a moment, the proud majestic train came whizzing 
 past, and we had scarcely time to give them a rousing cheer, when they 
 passed by. All was quiet aboard, as it was past midnight, and if we 
 succeeded in awakening them, they passed us before they realized what 
 had happened. 
 
 It was in the early hours of the morning when we reached Grand 
 Canyon Station. Strange, but true, all were asleep; probably because 
 of the anticipation of an active day. The curtain of night was per- 
 mitted to remain between us and the canyon, and we were satisfied to 
 await the dawn. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. . 
 
 HE night was a silent one. Unbroken save by an unromantic 
 snore emanating from the "stag" coach. It seemed as if the 
 slightest sound, even if it were a hundred miles away, should be 
 heard; so still and frosty was the air on an altitude averaging 
 over 7,000 feet. Not a whisper or murmur interrupted the tranquility 
 throughout the night. 
 
 At half past four, or possibly five o'clock, while we were still 
 dreaming under our heavy coverings, our arms were violently pulled 
 and a voice cried out: "Get up, boys, and see the sun rise." 
 
 It was Sir Gilchrist, the "Alarm Clock," his hearty and good-na- 
 tured laugh, which not only forgave him his sin, but compelled the 
 suffering to join him, was second only to the "Oscar" type. He shouted 
 again and again, until all were astir: "B-u-o-y-s, here is the sun!" 
 
 With natural modesty, because of our negligee attire, window cur- 
 tains were stealthily raised, but when we viewed the splendor without, 
 they were boldly thrown aloft. 
 
 The world was ablaze! We seemed to be winging on a cloud 
 
 high in the heavens, over a prodigious abyss of space, beyond which 
 
 the Eastern rim of all the world seemed to be on fire with flaming 
 
 light. A belt of splendid rose and gold illuminated all the horizon, 
 
 (17) 
 
258 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 darting long spears of glory into the dark sky overhead; gilding the 
 tops of a thousand hills, scattering over the deep purple earth below 
 and casting on the unbroken background of clouds beyond an enormous 
 silhoutte. 
 
 The spectacle was one of unparalleled splendor. Moment by 
 moment it grew more wonderful in beauty of color as the brilliant 
 dawn gave birth to the morn, and "Light" came rushing on Creation 
 at the word of God. The sun rolled into sight and flooded the world 
 beneath with almost insufferable radiance. 
 
 Notwithstanding the sinfully early hour we had arisen, all were 
 cheerful, eager, and impatient to see more of the glories offered by the 
 majestic canyon. Hastening our dress, we proceeded up a winding 
 road and found ourselves on the verge of a high precipice and stand- 
 ing upon the very rim of the Grand Canyon. 
 
 Here the universe seemed to have suddenly yawned asunder and 
 a broad underworld that reached to the uttermost horizon rose up 
 before us in a vastness that appeared as great as that of the world itself. 
 One should pause and remember that this wonderful, incomprehensi- 
 ble canyon is 217 miles long, 13 to 18 miles wide, and a mile deep, 
 (vertically). Think of it! 
 
 This great stretch of vale is studded with enormous rocks of many 
 shapes and hues, which rise and fall with the uncertainties of an ocean 
 wave. They glisten and sparkle as everlasting monuments to Nature's 
 architecture, in every conceivable form. As one stands on the brink 
 of this immense chasm and gazes down from an elevation of over 7,000 
 feet, the wondrous rock formations point upward in a million forms, 
 a million sizes, and a million color combinations, which vary with the 
 movement of the sun. Immense and lofty Towers, the relics of a pre- 
 historic race, rise up with the presence and aspect of awful mysteries. 
 Silent and sombre Castles with their fortified and obscure remains fes- 
 tooned with lace-like webs of talus. Stately and gorgeous Temples, 
 fretted with ornamental devices, impressive in their solitude and empti- 
 ness. Sharp, violent and furious crags; yawning, deep chasms of gi- 
 gantic proportions; myriads of overwhelming pinnacles; bold and bare 
 escarpments; lofty and gigantic peaks, exquisitely storm-carved; ridges, 
 winged-walls, and deep angles with frowning gashes of incredible 
 depth these are but a few variations of the great sea of impressive 
 architecture in rock and sand, which Nature throws open between the 
 outer rims of this tremendous expanse. Slopes and innumerable pyra- 
 midal mountains take their place like kingdoms of glory; noble ampi- 
 theaters, profound, silent, and depopulated. Wonderful gorges ; pictur- 
 esque-colored galleries ; wide buttresses ; projecting hedges hewn into 
 vast shelves of granite ; massive cairns in monumental heaps and a chain- 
 like series of tremendous and deeply indented battlements and huge 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 259 
 
 military entrenchments, are strung out for miles and are lost in haze 
 beyond the seeing distance of the eye. Sublime and impressive altars; 
 huge and stately cathedral spires ; balustrades and wide-spanning arches ; 
 domes and alcoves that would frown defiance at the tempest; groups 
 of magnificent columns with lattice work and delicate carvings; im- 
 mense fleets of volcanic cones, titanic cliffs, buttes, caves, terraces and 
 minarets a labyrinth of huge architectural forms massive bulks hewn 
 from the gaudiest rock strata that tower upward 1,000 to 6,000 feet, 
 but none reaching the level of the rim upon which we stood. Some of 
 these formations are a mile or more wide, and all combine to awaken 
 the blended sensations of awe and admiration. As we viewed this pro- 
 digious sight, we were lost and hushed in astonishment. 
 
 In the presence of a sight so thrillingly magnificent, the thought 
 of every mortal turns at once to communion with the Supreme Being. 
 A cry of "Great Heaven" comes to the lips, and the soul realizes the 
 outburst in its fullest sense, might, glory and majesty. The vibrating 
 cloudlets in the canyon below, rolling to and fro, lightly touch the rising 
 peaks, columns, temples, altars and pillars, like the harpist deftly pick- 
 ing his instrument; and as the fleecy waves sway gently back and forth, 
 they seem to move in harmonious sympathy, in musical measure, to 
 that ever impressive melody, "Near-er, Near-er to Thee." 
 
 We were stunned and unable to comprehend the vastness of the 
 mighty scene. Its immensity was beyond actual realization and the 
 surprises and revelations it offered, came as an inspiring climax. The 
 rocky upheavels slowly and gradually shaped themselves^, into mimic 
 battlements and castles, and out of rifted clouds came broad shafts of 
 sunlight that painted all with bands of fire, and created belts of sombre 
 shadows between. 
 
 Great, enormous flocks of fleecy clouds and cloudlets wandered 
 hither and thither in the lower air, many hundred feet below, as though 
 they were feeling, but knew not where to land. Swifter and swifter 
 they swayed to seek escape then the sun pursued them, smote and 
 dissolved them. As the sun mounted, these fleeces of cloudlets arose, 
 and were dissipated, leaving the canyon bare. Down in the far depths 
 white puffs begin to appear, creating a scene of unrivalled beauty, as 
 they rise and overflow the rim, and become entirely dissipated under 
 the devouring glare of the sun. Again and again came the marshaling 
 in the depths, the rise and total suffusion, until the warm walls had 
 spent their saturation, and the sun prevailed in undisputed authority. 
 
 For the moment let us occupy ourselves with the superb view an 
 astonishing spectacle beyond all dreams that unfolds beneath our eyes 
 the most beautiful picture that human eyes can rest upon in the broad 
 universe ! What a silent, curious change creeps over all as the sun rises 
 from out of the horizon! The sharp and undeniable light streams 
 
260 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 through every opening. The eastern wall of the canyon burns with 
 almost living flame, while to the west the shadows are cast so dark that 
 it seems as if night had lingered there. The lower canyon is in solemn 
 repose, though here and there shadows jump from nook and crevice and 
 hide themselves from the pursuing sunlight. Gradually as the inner 
 gorge emerges from its slumbers, the sunlight leaps about with sparkling 
 vivacity, and the whole scene becomes a moving panorama of light and 
 shadow mingled with celestial beauty. 
 
 Across the canyon to the southwest, where the sun shines with all 
 its brilliancy, hundreds of mighty structures of rock, miles in length, 
 thousands of feet in height, are thrusting themselves out of the depths 
 into forms of architecture so wild, so bold, so eccentric, and yet grouped 
 so symmetrically! Color schemes and variated tints glisten and change. 
 The rainbow in all its individuality of beauty pales in comparison to the 
 blendings and interblendings of the thousands of tints and shades with 
 which the Great Artist has painted His masterpiece. To see this work 
 of the Master, under the first rays of His great calcium, is to feel one's 
 weakness and inability in giving full expression language fails, words 
 lose the power of expression, description is impossible, only that which 
 God himself gave the soul has the ability to appreciate. 
 
 The curtain of clouds has lifted the sun has taken possession with 
 the greetings of the morn the temples, amphitheaters and many-formed 
 giants of architectural beauty stand out in all their splendor under the 
 light of day yet peace and absolute quietude prevails. A solemn, sin- 
 cere, and thrilling tranquility brings thoughts of eternal rest and ever- 
 lasting happiness! Verily, the scene is stamped upon the heart as an 
 image of beauty; to remain there until the pulse ceases. No impression 
 of gloom or terror sways the mind, and all thought of daily strife and 
 troubles recedes, and is lost in yesterday. 
 
 What voices spoke and cried out from the castles; what faces faded 
 from the earth look out upon us from the gleaming depths; what 
 Heavenly promise glistens from the mighty pyramids of rock, dressed 
 in their mantles of many hues? 
 
 As we soliloquized in these thoughts, we were sharply brought back 
 to the more material in life, by the announcement that breakfast awaited 
 us in the log cabin nearby. We hastened hither, silent in the delight, 
 glory, beauty and inspiration of it all. Reluctantly we directed our 
 steps from the canyon brink and ate, because it was eating time, without 
 any desire for the repast, but rather because it was a duty to perform. 
 It is but needless to state that the meal was a hasty one and that impa- 
 tience was general. 
 
 Following breakfast we drove about the rim of the canyon, stopping 
 at the most advantageous viewpoints. The drive in itself was exhilarat- 
 ing not only because of the high altitude, but because of the winding 
 
fcofo, Putnam & Valentine. Courtesy Santa Fe R. R. \ .1 
 
 A VIEW FROM THE NORTH WALL. 
 
PAo/o, Putnam & Valentine. Courtesy Santa F R. R. 
 
 FROM KAIBAB PLATEAU, LOOKING SOUTH. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 261 
 
 course which led at times to the very brink of the great, deep chasm, 
 and then carried us away again. 
 
 Wherever we paused to look and wonder at this great and incom- 
 parable marvel, there was newness and variety. No part of the 
 immense area of rock is duplicated. Its colors, though many and com- 
 plex, vary with the moving sun, minute by minute ; while passing clouds, 
 and lights and shadow, are reflected in the almost constant change of 
 color effect. 
 
 From viewpoint to viewpoint, the marvels multiplied. Details do 
 not impress the beholder at first glance; he is swayed and overwhelmed 
 by the stupendous ensemble. The river channel (that of the Colorado), 
 appears as a slender, silvery thread, as it winds and twists itself around 
 the tremendous foundations of the gigantic and massive architectural 
 rocks, 7,000 feet below the level of the eye. 
 
 Inky shadows hover in the depths; pale gildings of the golden rays 
 of the sun play upon the spire tips of the cliffs and peaks; titanic paint- 
 ings, in variable hues of pink, red, lavender, vermillion, gray and yellow, 
 blend and interblend. In the distance, white towers stand out in bold 
 relief amidst a purple haze ; and suffusion of rosy light, gleam in the 
 reflection of a hundred tinted walls. Colors gladden the faces of these 
 stony monarchs. The huge and mighty architectural forms would be 
 none the less awesome and impressive were they but grim, gray stone. 
 Perhaps such unity of color, or lack of color, would add solemnity; but 
 Nature, with a paint with which the world is unacquainted, and with a 
 brush that only Divinity can wield, has heightened their glory and its 
 own, and has rounded out a rhapsody of enchantment. 
 
 As we leave one viewpoint to seek another, our minds are occupied 
 in wonder if other glories and more astounding miracles are to be 
 beheld. Greater and more stupendous visions seem impossible, and yet, 
 when we again look out from the chasm's brink newer, if not greater 
 splendors of Nature's achievement lie before us. 
 
 A solemn silence broods over all. No warning voice of danger 
 comes up from the almost bottomless depths which yawn for prey. Cities 
 could be tossed down and land like pebbles, and over the enormous 
 expanse, not a murmur prevails even the river has no outcry, as it 
 glides smoothly and peacefully along its course. 
 
 As the mountain ranges, thousands of feet in height, looked up to 
 us on the rim, they seemed to offer a silent but eloquent sermon. In this 
 great gap in the heart of the earth, there are no worshippers, save a 
 few who find inspiration to pay homage to Nature. The temples seem 
 too sanctified for human priesthood, man is but the tiniest atom, as he 
 stands in their presence. Nature itself is God's appointed celebrant. Her 
 age and experience alone can fill this mighty pulpit. She prays silently, 
 but convincingly; her communions know no comparison in impressive- 
 
262 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 ness. In thunder she starts a revival that makes the mountains ring with 
 echo; her songs of praise are carried forth by the birds; the winds are 
 the solemn warnings of her symphonies. It is Nature's pulpit, and to 
 use modern conceptions, her sermons are illustrated. 
 
 En route to the hotel we came to a point where we could see across 
 a broad curve in the canyon, which forms an immense amphitheater of 
 splendid towers and temples, cliffs and gorges. The opposite rim, 18 
 miles distant, is low enough to permit the vision to range out over the 
 "Painted Desert" to the long, irregular battlements of Echo Cliffs, 50 
 miles distant, while Navajo Mountain looms up on the horizon over 
 100 miles away. This great expanse, which lies open to the vision of 
 the human eye, is one of unbroken chaos. Probably no other equal area 
 contains so many supreme marvels or so many masterpieces of Nature. 
 The spectacle is so symmetrical, and so completely excludes the outside 
 world and its accustomed standards, that it is with difficulty one can 
 acquire any notion of its immensity. 
 
 What a great and priceless thing is a new interest ! How it takes 
 possession and clings to the one interested! We were in this category 
 shortly after luncheon, when we decided to "go down trail." For the 
 benefit of the uninitiated it might be well to explain that 
 "going down the trail" at the Grand Canyon means the ex- 
 citing vocation of riding or walking from the rim of the 
 canyon to the river, a distance of seven miles, over wind- 
 ing, twisting and curving pathways. Little more than half way down 
 the trail is a plateau, upon which a number of large tents are continually 
 kept to supply refreshments, and provide places of shelter for any that 
 might be overtaken by night on the trail. 
 
 Many of our party who decided to make the novel and interesting 
 trip, agreed to ride. Horses and mules were provided at the log cabin 
 hotel. Much to our surprise burros were not used to carry passengers. 
 Sir Pears insisted upon having a burro, but there were none to hire. 
 He feared to make the trip on horseback, and refused to mount a mule. 
 He declared as a measure of safety, that he could straighten out his legs 
 and stand up, in time of peril, if he had a burro, and let the animal walk 
 from under him. He admitted, however, that even the burro has its 
 disadvantages their large ears interrupting the view. 
 
 Sir Baumann could not pilot his mule with any degree of certainty. 
 Just as we were starting, the animal scampered and zigzagged across 
 the road, bumping and pushing into the others. He scraped one side 
 against a cart and the other against the log hotel, giving him a polishing 
 first on one side and then on the other. Finally the mule sighted the 
 house in which he lived, and made a dash for it. As he entered the 
 doorway, which was low, he incidentally scraped Sir Baumann off his 
 back. When the latter picked himself up, he appeared rather discouraged, 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 263 
 
 but finally, in a spirit of determination, cried as Richard III had cried: 
 "Give me a horse ! A horse ! My kingdom for a horse" or else I walk. 
 
 Sir Joseph J. became discouraged early. Someone held his hand as 
 he looked over the brink. One glance was sufficient. Shrinking back, he 
 shuddered and declared : "What ? I should say not ! No trail for me 
 seven miles down and a thousand miles back !" 
 
 It was an anxious, cautious and picturesque procession that started 
 "down trail," and drew a crowded audience to the rim. The older folks 
 watched us for hours, training field glasses upon us until we appeared 
 like mere flies crawling down the side of the wall. Efforts were made 
 to identify the various members of the party, and this afforded enter- 
 tainment to the spectators. 
 
 The animals entered upon their perilous journey with measured, 
 unfaltering step. As a matter of fact, the "down trail" tour is more 
 perilous for animal than man, although there is enough anxiety for both 
 to make it a thrilling and strikingly unusual one. 
 
 The noble and faithful animals jogged along, sometimes at a canter 
 when the road permitted, but always with a degree of care. The bridle 
 lines are not held by the rider. Instead, one hand is held on a pommel 
 on the front of the saddle, and the other hand on the rear of the saddle. 
 The greater portion of the time the animals carry their heads between 
 their fore legs, swinging them up and down in harmony with carefully 
 chosen steps. 
 
 The pathway itself was merely a narrow shelf cut into the face of 
 the precipice. It averaged four feet wide for the seven miles, and 
 naturally the descent had to be made in processional style. It was not 
 an exhibition drill, but the command to remain "single file" was never 
 violated. At times we could look over the edge of the narrow gallery 
 and see a bottomless wall of rock, which was upholding us ; occasionally 
 we saw the bottom of the precipice upon which we were riding, several 
 thousand feet below; in some places this could only be accomplished by 
 dismounting carefully, and lying down and peering, over the edge 
 though many did not care to do so for fear of soiling their clothes, and 
 for other reasons more fearsome. 
 
 Portions of the path were so steep that flights of zigzag tree-stumps 
 had been driven into it to afford the animals a sure footing, in carrying 
 their human freight in safety. These stumps were inserted in step-like 
 fashion, and the noble animals would carefully measure each step before 
 making it. At times they would bring down a fore foot, and landing 
 upon a smooth surface, would sprawl out, only to recover instantly and 
 secure safer footing. At such times when the animal failed to secure a 
 firm footing, earth and rock went clattering over the edge, and as it 
 bounded and rebounded down the ravine, the echo struck a thrill into 
 the heart, and touched a chord of uncertainty. 
 
264 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 For the greater part of the way the trail was abrupt, though at 
 times a stretch of almost level path lay before us, which instilled confi- 
 dence and bravery, as we sat straight in the saddle and almost scoffed 
 at the idea of danger. At best, however, it was a rough, narrow trail 
 through a wilderness of billowy upheavals; of miniature mountains rent 
 asunder; of gnarled and knotted, wrinkled and twisted masses of rock 
 interlaced and mingled together. Over this twisting, turning, curving, 
 far-stretching pathway there was ever present the thrilling suggestion 
 of a life free of all care. With all its thrills, with all its possibilities of 
 danger and utter destruction; the environments inculcated a feeling of 
 carelessness, that in words might be expressed: "Where else is a better 
 place to die where lies a shorter road to heaven?" And yet, while the 
 soul may be swayed by the spirit of "I-don't-care," the first law of 
 nature self-preservation takes possession of the physique. 
 
 With the continued persistence of the animals to take the very outer 
 edge of the path, you handle yourself carefully all the time, under the 
 impression that your weight will start your carrier falling over the preci- 
 pice. Unconsciously you do not bear heavily upon his back, but con- 
 stantly lean over toward the inner side of the path. As a matter of fact, 
 this is the wrong thing to do, for with your body bent toward the inside 
 of the path, an angle is created with the animal at the saddle, and with 
 your body in a vertical position there is an incentive to push the animal 
 into the yawning abyss. But one doesn't figure out the geometrical 
 position under such conditions. 
 
 For the first mile or two your flesh creeps, until you become fully 
 acquainted with your animal then you place all confidence in him, and 
 if you ever loved a horse or mule, and respected his noble qualities, it 
 is upon such occasion. The mind of the animal seems to act with yours 
 in perfect harmony. He knows what to do often better than you. 
 Mental telegraphy seems established, and when you speak and give advice 
 to your steed, he responds with almost human intelligence. 
 
 We were led by a guide on horseback, who now and again snatched 
 twigs and limbs from overhanging trees, and offered them to us for 
 whips. But none had use for them. The noble animals were plodding 
 along with all necessary speed, ever anxious to finish the journey, but 
 never so eager as to become careless. To use an instrument of punish- 
 ment upon such noble and trusted servants would have been a rebuke 
 against faithfulness and an insult to kindness. 
 
 At times our path became surrounded by hideous desolation. We 
 stepped forward to sort of jumping-off places, and were confronted by 
 a startling contrast. Four or five thousand feet below us was the river, 
 walled in on all sides by gigantic precipices, and out of these rose the 
 domes, the castles, the peaks and the hundreds of oddly shaped masses 
 of architecture. 
 
HOTEL EL TOVAR. 
 
 Cofyright, 7900, by t '. H. Maude. Courtis} Santa /'<* R. R. 
 
 DESCENDING WALLAPAI TRAIL INTO CATARACT CANYON. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 265 
 
 What an imposing picture was this single-file procession standing on 
 the rim of a wall but four feet wide. Nothing between the edge and 
 Eternity! No hand rail or guard of any kind to protect the pedestrian 
 or horseman. 
 
 At each of the many turns along the trail, our noble steeds afforded 
 a dramatic element to the journey which at first struck us with thrilling 
 fear. Instead of taking these many turns with a curving sweep, the 
 animals would turn at sharp right angles, continuing to the very outer 
 edge of the path, and stand there, before turning about and following 
 the trail. As they walked out and took a standing position at the very 
 extreme of the path, they threw up their heads in proud, peacock-like 
 position, and silently survey the majestic panorama that lay spread out 
 far in the depths below. Now and again, they would swing their heads 
 from left to right, and from right to left, as if pointing out some object 
 of interest to the reinsman. Then, with a parting, haughty inspection 
 of all that lay below, they turned about, and pursued the path with the 
 same meek careful step that had brought them to the point of observa- 
 tion. Occasionally, when the trail was steep, but not treacherous, the 
 animals would canter for a time, only to slacken their pace when danger 
 lurked ahead. Then, with another turn in sight, the same desire and 
 impulse to look over the brink seized them and they stood statue-like on 
 the edge. A kind word "be careful Johnney Johnney Johnney" with 
 an affectionate patting, would bring a knowing response, and an endeavor 
 on the part of the animal to secure a sure footing. Sometimes our 
 positions seemed so perilous that we would gasp, but confidence in our 
 carriers was never misplaced. 
 
 The width of the trail, except at occasional turns, would not permit 
 the passing of two animals, and in order to signal parties coming up, 
 to await us at the proper points, our guide called out a signal that re- 
 echoed down the canyon with increasing volume as if a mighty chorus 
 was answering in the depths below. So narrow was the major portion 
 of the pathway, that tourists were compelled to crawl underneath the 
 animals in order to pass. 
 
 When such a pass had to be made, we took the inside, flattening 
 ourselves against the canyon wall. While this is but human nature, we 
 had no choice in the matter, because the animals invariable chose the 
 outside. This has become second nature with them, in fear of scratching 
 and tearing their sides against the ragged rocks, and in a place of that 
 kind a mule's preference is always to be respected. 
 
 When not engaged in carrying tourists the animals transport panniers 
 of water and merchandise. These, hanging bulkily on their side, do not 
 permit them to take the inside. When they are promoted from the 
 freight to the passenger department, they cling to early-formed habits, 
 and keep one of the passenger's legs dangling over the mighty depths of 
 
266 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 the lower world, while the passenger's heart is in heaven, so to speak, 
 and he assumes a look as if feeling somewhat unwell. 
 
 A touch of true western realism is added when the guide calls a 
 halt, and crawls along the narrow pathway, offering the tourists a drink 
 from his buck-skin canteen, which he carries strapped to his side. 
 
 As we approach "the tents" a stretch of almost level path is encoun- 
 tered. Here we assumed an air of bravado, sitting erect, arms folded, 
 we became horsemen of fearless nature. Arriving at "the tents" which 
 are located on a natural resting place of table land, we stopped and par- 
 took of light refreshments. It seemed surprising to find sustenance in 
 such a place, and it was only by means of the freight department of the 
 mule and horse railway that this oasis has been created. 
 
 After a brief rest, we continued our journey down to the river. 
 This last stretch of the trail has been properly termed the "cork-screw," 
 for it winds in such a succession of curves and bends that it can only be 
 likened to the instrument whose name it bears. 
 
 The path was the most remarkable we had ever seen ; curving down 
 the face of the colossal precipice a narrow way, with the solid rock 
 wall at one elbow, and a mighty depth and perpendicular nothingness at 
 the other. The steep and narrow course gave startling glimpses into 
 the ravine below (for it is still about three miles to the river by the path)" 
 and disclosed the massive and magnificent aspect of an enormous abyss. 
 Down and ever down goes the trail, one gorge opening below the other, 
 until the verge of the final gorge is reached. Here the river runs, at a 
 depth of a thousand feet further. Everything is desolate; the vegeta- 
 tion sparse, with a few stunted trees here and there. The river, which 
 seemed as if but a silvery thread from the brink, is now expanded by 
 the nearer view into large proportions. 
 
 A full realization of the enormity of the cliffs and the depths of the 
 valleys and crevices of the Grand Canyon, cannot be conveyed to the 
 mind until one has crawled down to the river bed, and glanced upward 
 into the narrowed sky. In the vastness of the canyon and the hundreds 
 of separating cliffs, one can gain but a meager conception of the labyrinth 
 of gorges. Yet this revelation of the immensity of the canyon, small 
 as it might be, offers a peep into a wonderland, which mortal man has 
 never conceived. 
 
 In places, the river thunders with a perpetual roar, swelling into 
 a rampant flood; then it fades away in slowly reducing murmurs, until 
 it smoothly, silently and mysteriously vanishes between huge gates of 
 granite. Rounding a bend stealthily and silently, it encounters rock ribbed 
 beds impeding its way. Here it rises to the full madness of violent agi- 
 tation, and roaring and plunging frantically, it meets and overcomes its 
 obstruction with loud acclaim that re-echoes through the canyon; then, 
 assuming its even temperament once more, it passes away as silently as 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 267 
 
 it came. And yet, the Colorado is a lonely river as it wends its way 
 through the Grand Canyon. It knows no voice but its own the music 
 and melodies heard in the gorges are but repetitions of its own sound. 
 The lonely wayfarer, standing upon its brink, is but a mere atom to the 
 haughty stream. 
 
 Dwarfed by prodigious mountain-like shores, which rise from the 
 water's edge, it is difficult to correctly estimate the width and volume of 
 the river. Its width, as we saw it, was between 250 and 300 feet; its 
 velocity 15 miles an hour, while at times its volume and turmoil was 
 equal to that of the Niagara. When in its angriest mood, it tosses a 
 drift of huge tree trunks into the air as if they were shavings driven 
 by the wind. 
 
 Even in the most dangerous parts of the canyon, between the most 
 terrific rapids, are stretches of calm water. It is only when one stands 
 on the bank and notes how fickle the waters really are how violently 
 treacherous, how alluringly passive that he realizes what heroic ex- 
 ploits were those of the first navigators, who traced what had previously 
 been a mysterious river course. It was only by exploring the Colorado 
 River, and persistently following its course, that it became possible to 
 explore the Grand Canyon, and locate such points where a trail to the 
 rim could be established. 
 
 The civilized world first learned of the existence of the Grand 
 Canyon in 1540, when Spanish explorers, moving northward from Mex- 
 ico, went out in search of the "Seven Cities of Cibola." This expedition 
 failed in every effort to descend the canyon, and only caught glimpses 
 of the river from afar. Two other expeditions during the same year 
 resulted only in exploring the river for a comparatively short distance 
 above its mouth. In 1776 another Spaniard, traveling southward 
 through Utah, struck off from the Virgin River to the southeast, and 
 found a crossing at a point which now bears the name "Vado de los 
 Padres." 
 
 For 80 years after no important exploration was made, until 1857, 
 when the War Department dispatched an exploring party under direc- 
 tion of Lieutenant Ives of the engineer corps. With a little steamer 
 known as the "Explorer," he managed to ascend the Colorado River as 
 far as the mouth of the Rio Virgin, but was then compelled to fall back 
 and join a pack train on shore. After a continued detour, he ascended 
 the plateau through which the canyon is cut, and after an adventurous 
 journey, returned with much valuable information. 
 
 Twelve years later, in 1869, Lieutenant Wheeler was ordered by the 
 chief engineer of the army to explore the canyon from below. He suc- 
 ceeded in reaching the mouth of Diamond Creek, but was compelled to 
 return, although he also brought back revelations. 
 
 In the same year Major J. W. Powell succeeded in making a peril- 
 
268 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 ous tour along the river, from what is now known as Green River Sta- 
 tion, through the whole course of canyons to the mouth of the Rio Vir- 
 gin, a distance of more than i,coo miles, and an expedition that proved 
 of unestimable value to the world. 
 
 Major Powell's success was attained in the face of emphatic remon- 
 strances from those best acquainted with the region, including the In- 
 dians, who declared the boats could not exist among the known rapids 
 and water falls. It was also believed that the river sought a subterran- 
 ean course for a greater portion of the way. 
 
 Encouraged by his remarkable success, Major Powell entered upon 
 another expedition in the summer of 1871. After a year's effort, he 
 descended the river and discovered paths down into the canyon from 
 the northern rim. The next year he passed through the greater portion 
 of the canyon in rowboats, and in subsequent years made astonishing 
 discoveries through the surrounding country. 
 
 Others sought to follow Major Powell in riding the turbulent waters 
 of the Colorado, but the great majority of these brave men found their 
 graves along the banks of the wild stream. In 1889, Robert Brewster 
 Stanton, together with a party of railroad engineers, started at the head 
 of Marble Canyon and made their way down the river and secured an 
 extended railroad survey along its course. Other adventurous travel- 
 ers have since explored various sections of the region, but there still 
 remain vast areas which have not yet known the footprint of man, and 
 which at this time seem wholly inaccessible. 
 
 The Colorado River, upon whose demand creation was wrought 
 asunder, and the Grand Canyon formed, in order to allow it progress, 
 is a stream of no mean dimensions. Formed in southern Utah by the 
 unison of the Green and Grand Rivers, it intersects northwestern Ari- 
 zona, becomes a boundary line of Nevada and California, and ploughs 
 its way through arid plains, dense forests, and formidable mountains. 
 It drains a territory approximated at 300,000 square miles, and from 
 the rise of its principal source, is 2,000 miles long. 
 
 At the courteous request of the guide to hasten, as the hour was 
 growing late, we started on the upward journey, but not until the faith- 
 ful animals had been watered and appreciatively caressed. Following 
 the instructions of our guide we tread in his footsteps, as he led the 
 way. On the whole, it was easier going up, than down the trail we 
 were more familiar and could distinguish the route and see such dangers 
 that in going down, could only be felt. 
 
 Up, up the "cork screw" we climbed the animals hastening dili- 
 gently. We patted them affectionately, and this seemed to encourage 
 continued effort. It appeared remarkable that an animal could make 
 such a sharp ascent as the "cork screw" and retain such lasting qualities. 
 They labored continually, hastening up and up the steep and narrow 
 
Photo, G'. L. Host. Courtesy Santa k'6 R. R. 
 
 A BRIEF REST, BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL. 
 
 O, W. US. Ban. Courtis) Santa Fe R. R. 
 
 A STRETCH OF CALM WATER, THE COLORADO RIVER. 
 
Photo, If. H. Knaf. Couesfrt Santa Fl R. R. 
 
 COLORADO RIVER, FOOT OF BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL. 
 
trail, with head constantly on the side of the animal in front, as though 
 anxious to pass him. There seemed to be a general competition to be in 
 the lead. 
 
 On the up trail it is not necessary to pause to view the magnificent 
 panorama it is ever before you. The glories that were revealed in 
 the depths of the canyon, near the close of day, were beyond the imag- 
 ination of poet or artist. Deep, inky shadows ; veils of pale light were 
 playing upon the lofty spires, while the many-colored columns and tow- 
 ers and domes blended and interblended as they became deserted by the 
 sun. The beholder becomes unmindful of fatigue, while immersed in 
 these beauties of nature. 
 
 Songs came to our lips lullabys of cradledom, that had gone un- 
 sung for a score of years. It seemed as if nature had carried us back 
 with one sweep to the simplest of our lives babyhood and brought 
 forth the melodies of toyland as of old. 
 
 Arriving at "the tents" we found that the descent had afforded us 
 a familiarity with the surroundings that was close to intimacy. The 
 terrific depths of the castles and turrets were barely discernible, and 
 were it not for the aid which memory afforded us, we could not have 
 distinguished many of the known landmarks of the trail. But the pano- 
 rama itself, is the overmastering charm. Always changing never twice 
 the same. As the angle of sunlight changes, an army of ghost-like, 
 colossal forms, march out from the farther side, which had appeared as 
 a solid wall of rock. The scene changes incessantly, flushing and fading 
 and advancing then dwindling into nothingness in the slumberous 
 haze. 
 
 We were requested by the attendants to remain at "the tents" over 
 night. "It will be dark before you reach the rim would you venture 
 to ascend so late?" was the question asked. We decided to go on. 
 
 As we continued, we came upon a stretch of almost level path, for 
 a mile or so. We scampered through the foliage at a pacing gait. It 
 required our fullest energies to remain in the saddle. The guide kept 
 far in the lead, like a pacemaker encouraging his followers to greater 
 speed. With shoulders bent over his horse's neck, he urged his animal 
 to continued effort. 
 
 When we again struck the steep, winding, turning, and narrow 
 pathway, the animals were permitted to progress more leisurely, and we 
 again broke out in song. The animals kept time with heavy plodding, 
 bringing down their hoofs with deliberation in picking their way up the 
 steep path. 
 
 Arriving at one of the wide turns, a whistling signal from behind 
 rent the air. Our guide turned about and requested us to corral in 
 the bend. As we huddled together in as small a group as possible, 
 a train of burrows carrying water, came hurrying up the trail. The 
 
animals were in charge of a guide who followed in the rear, and sig- 
 nalled his "temperance outfit" by means of a peculiar whistle, which 
 they thoroughly understood. 
 
 We followed in the footsteps of the water-carriers and continued 
 the persistent climb; laughing, jesting and singing. While still im- 
 mersed in this light vein some one cried out: "Look! Look! The 
 Canyon is in sunset!" What a marvel faced us! 
 
 A rich carmine flush that suffused the western sky and cast a ruddy 
 glow far over the great expanse of table-land, was penetrating the can- 
 yon. It was soft, sensuous, lovely, exquisite, a gorgeous conflagra- 
 tion that flamed in the track of the sinking sun. As it cast its soft 
 radiance into the canyon depths, it created an earthly paradise. Colors 
 were intensified. The red sandstone burned like coal aflame, while the 
 golden and rose-tinted walls shone with a brilliancy that blended into 
 the blaze of a fire of ruby and garnet on the rim above. The sky was 
 gorgeous with a soft but bright light, which sparkled and reflected upon 
 the pinnacles of rock. 
 
 One never can tire of the charm and fascination that comes with 
 the silent transformations, as the sun seeks its rest and casts its parting 
 rays over the canyon. As the depths are slowly cloaked with mysterious 
 purple shadows, and the loftiest spirals are tipped with gold, and stand 
 in bold contrast against the leaden horizon, the scene is one of such 
 brilliancy and indescribable beauty that its equal can nowhere else pre- 
 vail. 
 
 Then darkness fell and night brimmed out of the deep. And as the 
 moon broke forth from the far horizon, a thousand spectral forms pro- 
 jected from inscrutable gloom. They were the dreams of the moun- 
 tains, as in their sleep they brood on things eternal. 
 
 We hastened upward; unmindful of the path, permitting the ani- 
 mals free rein to seek their way, for we were intent upon gazing into 
 the sunset-painted canyon. As we looked, the canyon seemed lighted 
 from within. It was an abyss of shadow and mystery, and the same 
 sadness prevailed as in all great things of Nature, that removes it from 
 human experience. 
 
 There is a subtle charm in climbing up and down the canyon that 
 cannot be properly expressed. It seems to be inherent in every human 
 being to scale every height and seek the bottom of every depth; and 
 what abundant opportunity the canyon affords for the realization of such 
 ambitions. The exhilaration, the charm, the inspirations, the fascina- 
 tion that attracts and sways one, is beyond the happiest realization of a 
 soul's desire. We had never experienced it before. Once felt, leaves 
 always behind it a restless longing to feel it again a longing which is 
 like homesickness; a grieving, haunting yearning; which will plead, 
 
Photo, (V. L. Rose. Courtesy Santa Ft R. R. 
 
 RUINS OF CLIFF DWELLINGS, WALNUT CANYON, ARIZONA. 
 
 Photo, Putnam & Valentine. Courtesy Santa Fe R.R. 
 
 LIMESTONE CAVES, GRAND VIEW TRAIL. 
 
Copyright, l8q(),by H. G. Peabody. Council Santa Fe R. R. 
 
 ON GRAND VIEW POINT. 
 
 Cofjright, /AV<?, by H. G. Ptabody. Courttst Santa ft R. R. 
 
 BISSELL POINT AND COLORADO RIVER. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 271 
 
 implore, and persecute till it has its will. Life seemed anew; we were 
 in a new world, and saw with new eyes. 
 
 Dinner had been served several hours when we reached the log 
 cabin hotel on the rim, but a special meal was provided for us. The 
 guide informed us that we came up the trail at a later hour than any 
 party for several years. 
 
 It was upon our return to the log cabin hotel that we met John 
 Hance. The Grand Canyon and "Old John" Hance, as he is familiarly 
 known, are inseparable. He came to the canyon about 15 years ago, 
 as a prospector. It was a case of love at first sight (on the part of 
 "Old John") and he has dwelt in the canyon, summer and winter, ever 
 since. During the summer he occupies a cabin on the rim, and when 
 the winds of winter begin to blow, he drives his cattle 7,000 feet below, 
 to find a perpetual summer and pasture land, protected by the cliffs of 
 the canyon. The stories of his explorations and exciting experiences 
 are highly interesting, and his loyalty to his only love, the canyon, is 
 ever respected. 
 
 As night covered the canyon with the fullness of its sombre robe, 
 we walked toward the rim, thinking and soliloquizing, as we looked into 
 the blackened depths. Here was a wonder of creation the greatest 
 wonder of them all! Men have walked the earth and found what they 
 believed to be the "Seven Great Wonders." It is evident that these 
 conclusions were made, and the "wonders" enumerated, before the Grand 
 Canyon was explored. All of the "seven wonders" are in the old world 
 hence this deduction is made, for at the head of any list, as the wonder 
 of wonders, should stand the Grand Canyon of Arizona incomprehen- 
 sible and unconquerable. 
 
 We are told by historians that the seven wonders of the world are : 
 the Colossus of Rhodes; Diana's Temple at Ephesus; the Mausoleum 
 of Artemisia; the Pyramids of Egypt; Pharos of Alexandria; Walls 
 and Hanging Gardens of Babylon; and the Statue of the Olympian 
 Jupiter. 
 
 The Colussus of Rhodes was a bronze statue of Apollo, or the sun- 
 god, about 105 feet high, which was felled by an earthquake in 224 
 B. C. It is odious to compare this "first wonder* of the world, with 
 the Grand Canyon. 
 
 The Temple of Diana at Ephesus is worthy of mention as a won- 
 der. It was a magnificent structure of marble 425 feet long and 225 
 feet wide, which required 220 years in building. The chief architect 
 was Chersipron, but the building was burned by the invading Goths 
 A. D. 256. The Grand Canyon, 217 miles long and 13 miles wide, was 
 built by God during centuries, with Nature as the architect. It was 
 never burned never will, nor can be, and will stand as an everlasting 
 monument to the supremacy of its builders. 
 
272 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 The Mausoleum of Artemisia was the tomb of Mausolus, King of 
 Caria, which was erected by his widow 353 B. C. It was so costly and 
 magnificent that expensive tombs have since been known as "mauso- 
 leums." However, it crumbled into decay with the ages, until now the 
 former site has even been forgotten. In all its rareness of beauty, the 
 tomb of Mausolus could not have attained the splendor of the architec- 
 tural forms, which rise out of the Grand Canyon as monuments to the 
 brave men who died in its depths, and these tombs will live forever, 
 never to crumble and be forgotten. 
 
 The Pyramids of Egypt could be tossed into the Grand Canyon and 
 would never impede the flow of the Colorado River, or materially change 
 its course. The Pharos of Alexandria was one of the celebrated towers 
 of antiquity, and served as a lighthouse from the time of its erection, 
 300 B. C. until its destruction in the fourteenth century. There is evi- 
 dence of the existence of a light-bearing tower as early as the Trojan 
 war, and while the erection of the Pharos of Alexandria was a marvel 
 for the people of its time, as a world-wonder, its insignificance in com- 
 parison to the Grand Canyon needs no explanation. 
 
 The Walls and Hanging Gardens of Babylon, built by Nebuchad- 
 nezzar 560 B. C., consisted of gardens erected upon a series of arches in 
 viaduct style. In a word, it was the first roof garden the world ever 
 knew, and a remarkable achievement in the days of its accomplishment; 
 truly a wonder of the ancient world. But its equal and superior are 
 being daily reproduced by the hand of man. The original, marvelous 
 as it was, was conceived and constructed by a handful of men. The 
 whole universe, working as a unit for centuries, could not conceive and 
 construct a Grand Canyon, such as that in Arizona. The Statue of the 
 Olympian Jupiter, was, like every one of the "Seven Wonders," con- 
 ceived by the human mind and constructed by man marvelous as a 
 piece of ingenuity for its time, but capable, not only of reproduction at 
 this time, but of greater improvement. 
 
 In comparison to the Grand Canyon these "Seven Wonders" pale 
 into insignificance. It is the one great wonder of the world. Its scen- 
 ery is incomparable in either hemisphere. The immensity of this great 
 chasm is a revelation, and new experience to those who have trotted 
 the globe over. 
 
 In the great and romantic Andes range of South America there 
 reposes no abyss or chasm that could be considered with the titanic 
 gash which the Colorado River has chiseled through the tableland of 
 Arizona. The Grand Canyon of the Arkansas, in Colorado, is a won- 
 derful slit in the mountain, but in comparison, is but a button-hole. 
 The notches in the White Mountains of New Hampshire are beautiful; 
 the Yellowstone and Yosemite Canyons receive the approbation of the 
 world for their particular and individual splendors, but if all these were 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 273 
 
 inclosed in the Grand Canyon of Arizona, the observer on the rim could 
 not distinguish them from the hundreds of canyons that rib the verte- 
 brae of the mighty gorge, 6,000 to 7,000 feet deep, 13 to 18 miles wide, 
 and 217 miles long. 
 
 If Niagara Falls were transplanted and dropped into the canyon, 
 it would probably require another Major Powell to find it. If Mount 
 Washington were hoisted and dropped into the canyon, it could not be 
 distinguished because of its contrast to the brilliant, radiating and many- 
 colored monuments that rise out of the canyon depths. This great 
 yawning gap, wonderfully picturesque as it is, could swallow cities, aye, 
 a nation. There is but one standard by which the enormity of the Grand 
 Canyon can be measured, and that is by the Grand Canyon itself. Men 
 rave over it ; others weep ; many become frenzied with enthusiasm ; none 
 expect it as they find it ; every visitor is surprised beyond measure ! 
 
 Scientifically, the canyon offers impressiveness from the fact that 
 it is not an indentation in a mountain range. It is an unparalleled 
 chasm, as unexpected and as geographically unarranged for, as a gla- 
 cier in a southern city. And yet, what a monster is this cleft, and what 
 a mighty sea of gigantic wonders nestle in its bosom! Throughout its 
 great expanse, which can only be measured in miles, there rise hundreds 
 of peaks taller than any mountain east of the Rockies; yet not one of 
 them rise to the rim. 
 
 On May 6, 1903, during his memorable visit to the canyon, Pres- 
 ident Roosevelt in a speech, said: "It fills me with awe; it is beyond 
 comparison, beyond description. Keep it for your children, your child- 
 ren's children, and all who come after you, as the one great sight which 
 every American should see." Never were truer words spoken, but 
 Nature herself is so proud of this, her masterwork, that she will ever 
 protect it. 
 
 As we took our farewell look at the canyon, a pale, white moon was 
 casting its searchlight into fathomless depths. A shimmering lake of 
 silvery vapor rolled and tossed silently between the widely separated 
 walls. Subordinate canyons and deep crevices were half-hidden by the 
 flood of lunar radiance, while the tops of the mighty temples and ar- 
 chitectural forms that rose so defiantly during the day, glimmered in 
 the night like spectral forms. No voice of man, beast, or bird, resounded 
 through those awful corridors of silence. We felt as if we were the 
 sole survivors of the earth, and as we stood alone on the brink, the 
 melancholy murmur of the winds played a doleful requiem for a vanished 
 world. Nature slept breathlessly, silent; perhaps she dreamt of the 
 spirit world, as she lay in her undefinable beauty. 
 
 A night so pensive and soothing. A light wave of chilled air came 
 stealing over us as we took a final look in silence. Impressions were 
 crowded into seconds; thoughts of idealistic things occupied every mind; 
 (18) 
 
274 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 in solitude we worshipped at the shrine of Nature and then, with a 
 spirit that had enthralled us during our brief stay, our minds reverted 
 to the words of Milton : 
 
 "A dark, illimitable vista, without bound, 
 Without dimension; where length, breadth and heighth 
 And time, and place are lost!" 
 
 We turned and walked away the world, which to us, had stop- 
 ped, began to move once more. 
 
 El Tovar is the name of a new modern 125-room hotel, which had 
 just been completed at the time of our visit, and opened the following 
 season. It is a rustic building, built of boulders and pine logs, on a 
 magnificent scale. The new hotel is a Fred Harvey establishment, and 
 is highly modern throughout. 
 
 As we reached our "Special" we were greeted with smiles and en- 
 thusiasm by our colored porters. Although setting forth grinning coun- 
 tenances, they were visibly ill. Then they told the tale. These same 
 colored men who had endeavored to walk through Yellowstone Park, 
 believing it to be similar to Allegheny Park, had also made an effort to 
 walk down and up the canyon trail. 
 
 "Wall, jus luk o'dem shoos! I ain't got no futher use fo dem 
 shoos!" exclaimed one, holding aloft a pair that had been worn out 
 completely. The others stood about, resting one foot on the other, and 
 with their lower limbs apparently anchored. As a matter of fact, they 
 did not follow the established trail in attempting to walk the seven 
 miles of the canyon. They endeavored to make their own trail any- 
 where, but came back wiser, but much worn men. Later we observed 
 a most impressive tableau in the "smoker." Here were the same three 
 porters, all asleep; one standing, with a shoe encased in one hand and 
 brush in the other, (a shining light). The other two seated, side by 
 side; one held his arm way up with whisk broom in his hand, and the 
 other had his hand extended with the palm up, waiting for a dividend 
 to be declared. It was not a closed corporation, for they all slept with 
 their mouths open, so that we could read their innermost thoughts. 
 
 Fortunately all returned in good spirits and physique. As a matter 
 of fact we had provided for any emergency. For fear that some mem- 
 ber of the party might carelessly step off a precipice and drop into an 
 abyss, in a foolish effort to save time, we insisted that Sir Aeberli (who 
 is a funeral director) join the party. After inviting him, it occurred 
 to Sir Shook what an awful predicament we would be in, if the funeral 
 director should happen to lose his balance and strike the bottom. Then 
 came a happy thought. We would take two funeral directors. And 
 Sir Lowrie was invited. At first he was not anxious to go, but we told 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 275 
 
 him "we were dying to have him come" and that competition was al- 
 ready on the ground. 
 
 We started on our return tour to Williams, and by midnight the 
 tired pilgrims were all asleep. 
 
 The reader will pardon this letter on the Grand Canyon. Several times have I written 
 it to the end; several times have I torn up the manuscript, fearing lest my friends should 
 say that I had gone mad on a sudden. It might appear that I have exaggerated ; should 
 such be the case, my pen is not at fault. Seated here, my mind wanders and the spirit 
 roams back to that gorgeous marvel of nature in far-off Arizona, and I see it as I saw it 
 then. My eye kindles with the majestic beauty of those eternal battlements, and I tremble with 
 awe and wonder; while my heart throbs and thrills in the midst of nature's eloquent, golden 
 silence. Verily, I have never stood so close to my Creator, and every fibre of my body appreci- 
 ated His might, His glory, His majesty. Hence I suppose I shall come to my disappoint- 
 ment as have my predecessors ; all of whom have failed in their efforts to justly describe this 
 indescribable wonder. All have failed but go forth and let your eyes illustrate this mir- 
 acle to you. It is worth while traveling the world over to view this mighty chasm, and once 
 you have seen the Almighty's Great Creation, you will bless the day that you have taken ad- 
 vanced steps to a larger and more comprehensive idea of His work. 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 HE music of a donkey awoke us in the morning (Sunday, Sept. 
 
 18). Our train had long been at a standstill at Williams station. 
 Sir Bovard had been so deeply impressed with the sunrise 
 
 of the previous morning that he had lain careful plans to be 
 awakened early. He engaged Sir Gilchrist, Nature's own "alarm clock," 
 to awaken him sufficiently early to "see the sun rise" and offered him 
 passes for two to the Chinese Theatre, (which he had failed to use while 
 in San Francisco) as recompense. This was considered a brilliant idea 
 on the part of Sir Bovard, while no service, whether serious or pleasant, 
 was too much for "Joe." As a matter of fact the "Alarm Clock" had 
 never been out of order, and our early awakenings had been very per- 
 sistent. 
 
 However, for some unknown and unexplainable cause, and which 
 remains a mystery to date, "Joe" himself did not arise until 9 o'clock 
 that morning. All the rest of the "stag" coach constituents were "up 
 and doing;" the only two berths not made up were "the upper ten and 
 the lower five." Presently "Joe" jumped out, hastening his dress, and 
 without awaiting breakfast, called a council of the diplomats. He tear- 
 fully told of his contract with Sir Bovard made the night previous, how 
 he had neglected his duty, and that his employer was still sleeping in 
 delightful innocence. Sir Pears suggested that everyone turn back their 
 watches. Sir Benkart advised that "Bobbie be kept asleep until sunrise 
 
276 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 the next day, and believed that he would never miss the day." 
 Hanley thought it would be well to burn red fire outside the window of 
 his berth while he was being awakened. Other equally commendable 
 suggestions were made to save the reputation of the "Alarm Clock." 
 
 However, Hanley's suggestion was at once put into effect. 
 " Now hurry boys and get off the car, but all look heavenward and 
 pretend to view the sunrise while I hastily summon Sir Bovard," said 
 "Joe." 
 
 Sir Robert, springing from his "shelf on the wall," did not waste 
 time in an effort to dress, but merely threw a blanket over himself and 
 trotted out like a follower of the Kneipp cure. As he gained the out- 
 side he was confronted with a solemn and silent audience gazing pious- 
 ly heavenward, and apparently enwrapped in viewing the sun. 
 
 Presently Sir Bovard turned about and exclaimed: "Why that's 
 no sunrise! Its way up and ready to come down! In the meanwhile 
 there began a system of complicated and extraordinary smiling, which 
 had been withheld as long as possible. "Look here, the sun isn't the 
 spectacle! It's me, out here in this idiotic fashion! These boys and 
 girls are not caring a straw about the sunrise, they have been watching 
 me rise. As long as they have a spectacle as ridiculous as this they 
 need no further entertainment. Look at Oscar laughing a rib loose, 
 and there's a girl that seems to be going all to pieces. 'Joe' I never 
 met such a man as you!" 
 
 "What have I done?" asked "Joe." 
 
 "What have you done? You woke me at half past nine to see the 
 sunrise, and then ask such a question." 
 
 "Joe" then explained that it really was sunrise. "You see," he said, 
 "we are not much lower than we were at the Canyon rim, naturally we 
 are further away, and the sun seems high in the sky. If we were on 
 a mountain it would only be sunrise, and fortunately I have been carry- 
 ing a mountain time." The strong men almost fainted at this point, and 
 the incident closed. 
 
 Our "Special" was compelled to lay over a short time, in order not 
 to conflict with other schedules, and we took the opportunity to make 
 a short tour of inspection. Williams, which is 378 miles west of Al- 
 buquerque, has a population of 1,500. Bill Williams Mountain rises to 
 a height of 9,000 feet near the town; on the summit is buried the 
 pioneer scout after whom the mountain is named. "Chimney Rock" 
 and its eagle nests is a notable landmark on the mountain. 
 
 Returning to the station we were confidentially informed that a 
 bridal couple were within. It did not take much formality for our party 
 to become acquainted with the happy pair. They were bound on a 
 honeymoon trip to the World's Fair and as the groom was an employee 
 of the Santa Fe railroad!, we insisted that they accompany us. They con- 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 277 
 
 sented to do so. In a few moments we steamed away with Albuquerque 
 as our destination and the "Santa Fe all the way." 
 
 Whirling across the alkali sand wastes of Arizona, we saw here and 
 there vast herds of sheep and wondered how they secured sustenance. 
 But the timid creatures looked sleek and fat as they huddled together 
 under the charge of the dark-skinned Mexican shepherds. 
 
 Here the region abounds in ruins of dwellings of a prehistoric 
 people, Cliff-dwellers. In Walnut Canyon which breaks the plateau for 
 several miles, are recesses, floored and roofed and walled up on the 
 front and sides with rock fragments, and 1 cemented into compartments 
 Nearly all have fallen into crumbling decay, though some are almost 
 wholly intact. Fixed like swallows' nests upon the face of the precipice 
 they are only approachable by arduous climbing, and appear to have been 
 retreats rather than dwellings, That there was a time when warlike 
 people trod the now peaceful plateau is generally admitted. These 
 Cliff-dwellings, between the earth and sky, are taken to indicate that 
 their inhabitants of centuries ago were a weak and small tribe, driven 
 to unassailable retreats by descending hordes of superior members, 
 energy and skill. 
 
 Then onward to Flagstaff, familiar to readers of old army stories 
 of Apache days, and on to the vast forests of the San Francisco range. 
 The new short-cut to the Grand Canyon, over the line recently built from 
 Williams, has robbed! Flagstaff of the distinction of being the gateway 
 to The Greatest Wonder in the World. However, it affords access to 
 delightful and remarkable ancient ruins, and to one of our great moun- 
 tains. The magnificent San Francisco Peaks lie north of Flagstaff, 
 and the three peaks form one mountain. Humphrey Peak, whose sum- 
 mit is 12,750 feet above sea level, is reached by a special roadway from 
 Flagstaff. The town itself is surrounded by dense forests of pines, 
 which lend beauty to the eye and invigorate one with their aroma. 
 
 San Francisco Peaks which rise 13,000 feet above the level of the 
 sea, are but 6,000 feet above Flagstaff, as that town is in itself highly 
 elevated. Humphrey's Peak, which is easier accessible than the others, 
 offers the noblest of mountain views. It commands a recognizable ter- 
 ritory of 75,000 square miles, with vague, shadowy contours beyond the 
 circle of definite vision. To the north, the farther wall of the Grand 
 Canyon at Bright Angel Amphitheatre, 50 miles away, can be seen; 
 forty miles beyond the Buckskin Mountains rise against the horizon; 
 to the right, the Navajo Mountains, near the Colorado state lines and 
 200 miles away, can readily be discerned. In the southeast the White 
 Mountains, more than 200 miles away, are clearly seen, while within a 
 full and equal radius, interesting and famous landmarks of all sorts are 
 within the grasp of the eye. 
 
 Our next stop was Canyon Diablo, 32 miles east of Flagstaff, and a 
 
278 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 station named after an interesting and important canyon. It is a gash 
 in the plateau 225 feet deep, 550 feet wide, and many miles long, while 
 a narrow stream wends its way along the bottom. Just before reaching 
 the station, the train passed over the canyon on a spider-like bridge, 600 
 feet long. Several miles southeast is located Meteorite Mountain, where 
 an immense sky-wanderer is said to have fallen. Large fragments of 
 meteoric stone have been found nearby. 
 
 What numberless centuries of human history, of life and love, of 
 hope and despair, of endeavor and achievement, are covered by one 
 glance of the eye, from the sight of the light, airy frail-looking steel 
 bridge, by which the Santa Fe railroad leaps the deep, dark chasm of the 
 Canyon Diablo, to the rude ruins of the Cliff-dweller's castle (geo- 
 graphically nearby). The one fairly stands for the new civilization of the 
 country, the other probably as fairly for a civilization whose history has 
 vanished in the midst of centuries, never to be recovered, or recovered 
 only in doubtful fragments painfully patched together by the preserving 
 archeologist. 
 
 East and north of Canyon Diablo is the Moki Indian reservation, 
 which has seven villages, or pueblos, known as Oraibi, Shungopavi, 
 Shipaulovi, Mishonginovi, Wolpi, Sichomovi and Tewa. In this reser- 
 vation, which is about 30 miles wide, are gathered the members of the 
 Moki or Hopi tribe. Moki is a nickname and is said to signify "dead." 
 On the other hand Hopi, the true name, indicates "good people" or 
 "peaceful people." 
 
 The Hopi Indians do not restrict themselves closely within the 
 confines of their reservation, and are seen and met all along the route 
 in this vicinity, gathered at railroad stations, and! engaged in various 
 pursuits. They are cleanly and uncleanly, no compromise. It is either 
 one extreme or the other. As a whole the tribe is industrious, thrifty, 
 orderly and cheerful. A succession of ceremonies, each terminating 
 in "dances," are in progress almost the entire year, and all these spec- 
 tacles, which are of high interest to students of pagan life, are entirely 
 free and public. 
 
 As almost the whole source of occupation is agriculture in an arid 
 region of uncertain crops, they find considerable time for dance and 
 song and elaborate ceremonials, which are grotesque in the masked 
 dances, poetic in the flute dances and excitingly dramatic in the snake 
 d!ances. In the latter ceremony which is grim and startling, reptiles are 
 used as messengers to carry petition to the gods of the underworld, who 
 are supposed to control the rain cloud. It seems impossible to the on- 
 looker that venomous snakes can be handled so audaciously without in- 
 flicting deadly wounds, but the Hopi snake priests have a knowledge of 
 reptile ways and avoid injury by their dexterity; they are also said to 
 possess a secret antidote which they apply when bitten. There are very 
 
THE CAMERA 
 
 " San/a Ft' J 
 
 THE SOUTHWEST. 
 
 I The Canon Diablo. 2 Cliff Dwellings, Hieroglyphs on the rocks and Cliff Dwellers Skull. 3 Petrified Trees in Petrified Forests, 
 Arizona. 4 Abode Mansion, Old Albuquerque, N. M. 5 Church of San Felipe, Old Albuquerque. 6 Maria. 7 Mexican Bull 
 Fighters 8 Mexican Water Carriers. 9 Bernadillo County Court House, Albuquerque. 10 Acequia or Irrigation Ditch, Albuquer- 
 que. ii Street Scene, Old Albuquerque. 12 City Hall. 13 Bull Fight. 14 ' Deme un Centavo. " 15 Aguador. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 279 
 
 few and rare cases where serious consequences have followed the hand- 
 ling of snakes capable of inflicting deadly wounds, yet it is positively 
 known that the snakes are in nowise deprived of their power to do so. 
 
 Hopi girls are shy and modest, and have distinct claims on beauty, 
 although they are rather large featured. The favorite fad! among Hopi 
 maids, consists of dressing their lustrous dark hair into two great 
 whorls, one on either side of the head. These are intended to be symbolic 
 of the squash bloom the emblem of the virgin. This fashion is aban- 
 doned after marriage. The women know none of the worries of chang- 
 ing styles, and abide by the texture and design of the garments worn 
 by their ancestors. Hopi men and women excel in basketry and are 
 excellent pottery-makers. Much weaving is also done, but agriculture 
 remains the chief pursuit. 
 
 At Winslow we had opportunity to inspect and criticize the fearful 
 and wonderful costumes of the Indians mingled among us on the station 
 platform. As usual, they had trinkets and novelties for sale. We had 
 been offered so many Indian novelties on our tour that novelties had 
 ceased to be novelties. 
 
 The Painted Desert and Moki Buttes are north of Winslow, while 
 the Mogollon Mountains lie south. In the early days the Continental 
 stage route and the old Santa Fe Trail passed 1 through Winslow, mak- 
 ing it an important junction. 
 
 As Winslow is a "Harvey Eating House" point, we took the op- 
 portunity to secure a satisfying luncheon, which terminated in an ice 
 cream debauch. The commodity which is so plentiful at home that it is 
 not given consideration, is idolized on the desert, because of its scarcity, 
 and we looked upon it with reverence and respect. As a result, we were 
 easily lead into temptation and dissipation, and we consumed sufficient 
 to test the full capacity of the freezing apparatus. 
 
 Thirty-three miles eastward we arrived at Holbrook, where a short 
 stop was made. Fort Apache and several Indian Villages and Mor- 
 mon settlements lie south of the town. Twenty miles further is Ad- 
 amana, whose chief fame lies in the fact that it is the main gateway to 
 the Petrified Forests, which lie to the south. 
 
 These marvels of geology (for the forests are three in number) are 
 thought to have been made possible by the emersion of a forest by the 
 sea; then its burial under sand; then its encasement under rock forma- 
 tion, and finally the removal of the incasement of rock and mountain, 
 by the slow process of erosion. 
 
 Thousand's of acres are thickly strewn with branches, trunks, and 
 limbs, covered with chiplike fragments. Some of these fragments would 
 adorn a collector's cabinet, or embellish the crown, if polished by the 
 lapidary. Some of the petrified and prostrate trees are 200 feet in 
 length, and seven or eight feet in diameter, though most of them are 
 
280 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 broken into sections. The three separate tracts of fallen forest astonish 
 the beholder with an inexhaustible store of gems, weighing thousands 
 of tons. A profusion of hardened splinters, limbs and logs lie about 
 in countless numbers : In one instance, a huge trunk spans a canyon 50 
 feet wide a bridge of jasper and agate overhanging a tree-fringed 
 pool. 
 
 The first forest, six miles from Adamana, is the most popularly vis- 
 ited, and contains the natural log bridge. The second forest which is 
 three miles south of the first, is smaller, though it contains many rare 
 specimens of petrified wood. The third tract lies 13 miles south of 
 Adamana, and is the largest of the three. Its trees and tree trunks are 
 of unusual size, though the chief characteristics are the same as those 
 of the other two. These tracts of hardened vegetation inscribe the ex- 
 istence of time, as far back as the Bible record^; the evidence that trees 
 grew in Arizona thousands of years ago cannot be disputed ; what they 
 know of the events transpiring since their formation and growth will 
 never be told. 
 
 As we hastened to the border line separating Arizona and New 
 Mexico we were impressed with the gigantic mountain terraces, plateaus, 
 canyons, arid plains, deserts and bleak mountain spires, which had 
 marked our pathway across Arizona. There is a charm even m the 
 desolation of Arizona. Its frequent wide stretches of rugged horizon 
 offer a fascination equal to that of the mountain and the forest. The 
 same air of mystery pervades the desert as the canyon the same thrall 
 seizes the onlooker. 
 
 The cliffs of Arizona are flung in broad, sinuous lines that shape 
 themselves into caverns, corridors, pyramids, spires, and hundreds of 
 other forms and shapes that stand as the unfinished work of some mas- 
 ter architect, who planned more than he could execute. Ranging from 
 an altitude between 5,000 to 7,000 feet in the eastern section, the high 
 plateaus break toward the west until they attain an elevation of but 500 
 feet in the Colorado River Valley. 
 
 Mark of Nice, the discoverer of what is now New Mexico is also 
 credited with the discovery of Arizona. The Apache Indian was the 
 first monarch of this domain known to civilization. For years he fought 
 the Spaniard with considerable success. It was acquired by the United 
 States in 1853, and after being devastated in the early days of the Civil 
 War, was reoccupied by California troops in 1862, and not until 1882 
 did the first railroad span its boundaries. 
 
 Today, the once blood-thirsty Apache has been corralled on the 
 reservations and is being rapidly educated by that master instructor 
 Uncle Sam. But Arizona is destined to never lose its fascinating air 
 of mystery and antiquity. Besides its monster chasms and cliffs, which 
 stand unchanged by time, it contains within its borders ruins of once 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 281 
 
 populous cities maintained by irrigation systems, which our modern 
 science can scarcely duplicate. These indisputable evidences bespeak 
 of a people who lived and died unheralded and unsung; unhonored and 
 unknown. 
 
 The rocks themselves bear the delicate but definite hieroglyphic writ- 
 ings that tell of some tragedy or romance of historical love or perhaps 
 of successful warfare or honorable defeat but be it what it may, it 
 tells in truth, for evermore, that another race had lived and learned 
 where we today seek life and education. 
 
 Nor do these hieroglyphics indicate a low degree of culture for 
 the delicate but definite lines clearly show that they had been made a 
 thousand times. Was the culture capable of inscribing ideas common 
 to this lost race? Surely it must have been! For if only few could 
 read, the time and energy would never have been spent to inscribe 
 thought upon stone. The fragments of pottery and other evidences 
 found among the ruined cities of Arizona indicate that the cliff-dwel- 
 lers and the settlers of centuries ago, have been a race of skill as -veil 
 as culture, which was noble in its refinement. 
 
 Spanish civilization never took healthy root in Arizona and New 
 Mexico. It was earnest, but it failed. Evidence remains that it pur- 
 sued a course of "benevolent assimilation" that offers no historical en- 
 couragement, and that degeneration was the only lesson it taught. How- 
 ever, this ancient but new southwestern sunland, is building high upon 
 the ruins of the lost and unknown, and the twentieth century civilization 
 is lifting it higher and higher. 
 
 Soon we were in New Mexico, the land of the adobe, desert, and 
 dust; the land of the vast rancho, the Mexican, the Indian, and the 
 Spaniard. All is quaint, peculiar and ancient to the dweller of the east. 
 Great plains stretch out and are as level as a table, except where broken 
 by a mountain range or canyon. 
 
 Telephone and telegraph wires strung across the dreary desert 
 wastes tell of the accomplishment of industry and enterprise over na- 
 ture. Here and there a green spot marks a tiny oasis, but the greater 
 portion of the western section of New Mexico is still waste land. Scat- 
 tered by the way are a few sleepy Mexican villages and Indian pueblos, 
 and the peculiar atmosphere of old Spain prevails. 
 
 Gallup, a coal-mining town, lies on the border line between Arizona 
 and New Mexico, though considered as being in the latter place. Crude 
 oil, pottery and brick clay are found in liberal quantities in the imme- 
 diate neighborhood. Gallup has a population of 3,000. Thirty Indian 
 trading stores on the reservation in northwestern New Mexico secure 
 supplies from Gallup merchants, or receive shipments through that point. 
 
 As evening came on the "stag" coach constituents decided to sere- 
 nade the bridal couple who joined us at Williams. Headed by our own 
 
282 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 band, whose instruments of torture would have driven the Indian war- 
 riors to blush, we marched to the commissary car escorting the bride and 
 groom. 
 
 It was here that the musical ( ?) organization inflicted a serenade 
 that filled the early hours of married life with torture and discourage- 
 ment. Seated on the top of a trunk, the honored guests received the 
 visitors. The serenaders took it upon themselves to sing after their tin 
 pans and other instruments had been hushed. It was generally conceded 
 that the newly wedded couple would be able to meet all misfortunes 
 that might come with married life, because of their courage in enduring 
 the ordeal furnished by the band. 
 
 At the conclusion of the bombardment by the musicians and vocal- 
 ists, two addresses were delivered one to the groom, the other to the 
 bride. Sir Greenwalt, who gave advice and words of encouragement 
 to the groom, said in part : 
 
 "The ace always did beat the deuce, and this was never truer than 
 when two hearts are succeeded by one. There is no way in which man 
 can show greater regard for woman than by agreeing to submit to her 
 cooking for an unlimited period of time. You have gotten yourself 
 into a position where you cannot do much but remain and take your medi- 
 cine, and if you have a powerful constitution you may survive. Brave 
 and strong men have been known to live for years, and heroically pose 
 as the medium by which their wives mastered the art of cooking and 
 meanwhile paid all expenses. So do not become discouraged at the out- 
 set maybe a biscuit will come along and take the weight off your mind 
 and place it on your stomach. 
 
 "Never emphasize a remark to your wife by using crockery as air- 
 ships. Cups and saucers hurled through the air have been known to 
 break the harmony of a home as well as the dishes. Let your married 
 life be as quiet and peaceful as the brooklet, and always talk in whispers 
 the rising voice can be carried to extremes. You may have a won- 
 derful command of barbarian vocabularies when irritable, but you must 
 consider that this may be unintelligible to your wife. 
 
 "Don't cherish the belief that a man makes a mistake by marrying 
 the woman of his choice sometimes the woman errs in making her 
 selection. Woman wields a powerful influence and some times a flat- 
 iron or a broom. They have great strength of purpose, as well as being 
 strong in the wrists. 
 
 "Do not frown on the costume worn by your wife and admire the 
 same, or a worse creation, on another woman. This has been known 
 to unloosen the bonds and ties of matrimony. One who has never de- 
 serted his wife, at her earnest request, cannot realize the full pain of 
 anguish it costs. Never tell your wife about the things 'mother used 
 to make.' Woman have great respect for style and she might tell you 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 283 
 
 in reply, that 'they are not wearing powdered sugar on apple dumplings 
 this year.' 
 
 "Very few men have had the opportunity for observation in a mat- 
 rimonial way, as Johnston he gave me all these points. The average 
 man judges all the wives in Christendom by his own, but Johnston has 
 made matrimony a study. It has been a life-work with him He has 
 studied all its phases, and has become an authority; so I say to you 
 that woman, either by strategy and winning manner, or by main 
 strength and perseverance, is absolutely sure to wield a powerful in- 
 fluence over poor, weak man; and as long as the grass grows, and the 
 waters flow (ain't that so, Johnston?) you will find her presiding over 
 man's destinies and his ducats. Still Uncle Sam is right when he 
 declares "united we stand divided we fall." 
 
 "Woman is like the glad landscape to the weary eye. Individual- 
 ly and collectively she is a great adjunct to civilization and progress. 
 The electric light is a good thing but how pale and feeble is its bril- 
 liancy in comparison to the eye of a good woman. The phonograph 
 and telephone are marvels of invention but the first needs winding, and 
 the second prompting in order to talk. Not so with a woman. The 
 phonograph and telephone are good things into which to talk and de- 
 posit profanity, but they cannot take up a conversation, continue it 
 persistently and follow a man out of the front door with it. The pho- 
 nograph has much to learn from woman." 
 
 The groom seemed deeply affected by the wise words offered by 
 Sir Greenawalt, and after the band had disturbed the peace for a few 
 moments Sir Watson arose to deliver "the charge" to the bride, and leave 
 the case with the jury. He said in part: 
 
 "Remember that marriage does not always pay cash dividends you 
 have made a mistake if you have married as a financial venture. Do 
 not marry for revenue only, but for protection. If your husband saves 
 $5 a week, do not invest $4 of it in a pair of white slippers and the 
 other dollar as a weekly installment on a raincoat. Sometimes two 
 people do well in business by themselves, but when they form a partner- 
 ship both become insolvent. Yet a team can always do better uphill 
 work if they pull work. You must not be a dormant partner during 
 the day, and go through your husband's pockets at night and declare 
 a dividend on your own stock. Few women are silent partners try 
 the exception and see how it works. Novelties always take. 
 
 "You may have had more pocket money before you married than 
 you will have hereafter. You may have worn better clothes when you 
 were single, but remember how it affects your husband perhaps he 
 had more money and wore better clothes before he married. There are 
 always two sides to a wedding. Don't hesitate to press your husband's 
 clothes remember he pressed his suit before he won you. 
 
284 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 So this is your honeymoon the first month of married life is always 
 considered so. Those who have been married longer say the moon is 
 made of green cheese. Learn to take the honey with cheese and the 
 bitter with the sweet. You can get greater concessions from your hus- 
 band while he is still temporarily knocked silly by the pomp and enthu- 
 siasm of the marriage ceremony. Do not aggravate him when he comes 
 home late at night and is too tired to walk straight greet him with 
 a smile and help him upstairs. If you pay attention to the smile racket 
 he may cut out the "smile" down street. 
 
 "Of course it is a serious responsibility to give advice in a case such 
 as this, but, if I could change the social fabric, in some cases, I should' 
 ask woman to be more thoughtful of her husband. If possible be less' 
 severe and critical. I would say to woman: 'Be a man.' Instead of 
 asking him for a careful account of every cent he spends, learn to trust 
 him. Let him know you have as much confidence in his financial ability 
 as you have in him to earn your support. Make him believe you have 
 this confidence anyway, whether you have or not. Love and respect him, 
 and if you find married life a failure join some women's club." 
 
 Wild enthusiasm followed the closing of these words of advice by 
 the two speakers in fact the enthusiasm was so pronounced that it woke 
 the groom, who had fallen asleep while in serious meditation. The band 
 then continued with its torture, in what they termed "two selections," 
 after which refreshments were served, and very appropriately so, because 
 everyone felt as if they wanted to be refreshed. 
 
 The Zuni Indian reservation is the first of the larger pueblos reached 
 in New Mexico, coming from the west; lying as it does in the central 
 western section, 35 miles south of Zuni station, on the Santa Fe railroad. 
 The tribe numbers about 1,000 and has always been imperious. Their 
 language differs entirely from that of the other Indian tribes in the 
 southwest. Their history, prior to Spanish occupation, indicates that 
 they were, at that time, the dominating pueblo, Their ceremonial dances 
 are of world renown, and their pottery is considered artistic. As a tribe 
 they do not worship cleanliness, though they run entirely to extremes 
 in this matter individually they are either scrupulously clean, or un- 
 scrupulously unclean. 
 
 In the northwestern corner of New Mexico, and extending into the 
 northwestern corner of Arizona lies the famous Navajo Indian reser- 
 vation. This community is easiest reached from the railroad by a trail 
 which leads north from Wingate station. Immediately south of this 
 station is Ft. Wingate, which is rich in frontier history. 
 
 The Navajos are progressive, intelligent and self-supporting people. 
 They are the most interesting textile workers of the deserts and are the 
 weavers of the world-famous Navajo blankets which find a ready mar- 
 ket at home and abroad. The Navajos are also noted silversmiths, and 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 285 
 
 are a most enterprising people in comparison to other tribes. They are 
 not strictly a pueblo people, but often lead nomadic lives, wandering 
 from place to place and dwelling only in temporary habitation. Both 
 men and women are fine physical types, though they are succumbing 
 rapidly to consumption and pneumonia, by the introduction of the white 
 man's unnatural way of living. 
 
 Following Wingate, the station of Thoreau is reached, which lies 
 in a district rife with interesting canyons and Indian pueblos; notably 
 Pueblo Bonito, whose ancient ruins cover seven acres, and which include 
 one building containing 1,000 rooms. 
 
 Chaves is a station named after a noted Indian fighter of the early 
 days, while at Bluewater is located an extinct volcano, Tintero, meaning 
 inkstand, from whence the lava once freely flowed. From Grant station 
 the Zuni Mountains can be seen rising in the southwest, while San Ra- 
 fael, the next stop, is famed as being the point where the old and strange 
 Penitentes rites are still performed. At McCarty's station are seen the 
 end of the lava beds, which extend all the way from Bluewater, while 
 to the northeast of the station is Acomita, an offshoot of the Acoma 
 pueblo. Cubero is an old, quaint Mexican village, three miles from the 
 station, where the ceremonies brought from Old Mexico still prevail. 
 The San Mateo Mountains are on the north, stretching from Grant to 
 Cubero. 
 
 A score or more of pueblos are scattered across New Mexico, the 
 majority of which center about Santa Fe and Albuquerque. It is not 
 generally known that the Pueblo Indians own 900,000 acres of land, and 
 that since the Guadeloupe Hidalogo treaty in 1848 they have been full- 
 fledged United States citizens, though they do not exercise the right of 
 suffrage. However, they maintain their own form of government within 
 their pueblos. 
 
 Three of the most important pueblos in New Mexico and in the 
 country, are those of Acoma, Laguna and Isleta. Acoma pueblo lies 
 15 miles south of the railroad, and about 66 miles west of Albuquerque, 
 while the other pueblos named, lie very near the Santa Fe main line. 
 
 The Indian women of Acoma make pottery that has attained a fine 
 reputation for beauty and design throughout the southwest. This pot- 
 tery is seen to best advantage when skillfully poised upon the heads of 
 a long line of women as they pass to and fro, between the village and 
 the reservoir, where the pueblo water supply is stored. Not only is the 
 pottery graceful in outline and handsome in decoration, but the Acoma 
 women have preserved the ancient art of firing the pottery; a knack 
 which has been lost by many of the southwestern tribes. Day or night, 
 these Indians, and those of all other tribes and pueblos, meet the trains 
 with a liberal display of their wares and trinkets in fact the tourists 
 that pass through the southwest, contribute to the support of the red men 
 
286 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 by their purchase of souvenirs, and it is rare that the Indians see a pas- 
 senger train pull out with empty purses. 
 
 Near Laguna lies the famous Mesa Encantada, or the "Enchanted 
 Table Land." This eminence rises precipitously 430 feet above the sur- 
 face, and is only accessible by ladder or rope. The summit gives evi- 
 dence of former aboriginal occupancy, and the tradition of the neighbor- 
 ing Acoma Indians is that their ancestors lived upon it, but were forced 
 to abandon the village when a storm had destroyed the only trail and 
 caused those remaining on the summit to perish. 
 
 The Indian men of Laguna have responded to the influence of civil- 
 ization by adopting modern dress and renouncing war paint and old time 
 regalia. The women of the pueblo, still cling to the dark blue, native- 
 made dresses which have been worn by Indian women for hundreds of 
 years. 
 
 Isleta, the pueblo located just east of Laguna, and which boasts of 
 more than 1,000 inhabitants, is another community wherein the women 
 do not change their fashions. Their strange head-dress and odd looking, 
 bandage-like leggins, are objects of greater attraction than their pottery 
 and home-made dolls, which they offer for sale. 
 
 Life among the Indians of the pueblos has materially changed since 
 influenced by European contact. Many are housed today in the self-same 
 structures in which their forefathers were discovered. The Indian is, 
 and ever was, a true pagan, swathed in seemingly dense clouds of super- 
 stition, rich in fanciful legends, and profoundly ceremonious in religion. 
 Although a pagan, the purity and well being of his communities will 
 bear favorable comparison with those of the enlightened world. He 
 is brave, honest and enterprising within the fixed limits of his little 
 sphere ; his wife is virtuous and his children docile. Pueblo architecture 
 has none of the elaborate ornamentation found in. the Aztec ruins of old 
 Mexico. The houses are usually built of stone and covered with an 
 adobe of cement. Commonly they are two or three stories high, and join 
 neighboring houses in terrace form. The exterior is painfully plain. 
 Entrance is made to the roof of the lowest story by ladder. 
 
 Acoma is probably the most interesting pueblo of New Mexico, 
 built as it is on the summit of a table-rock 350 feet above the plain, and 
 7,000 feet above the sea. Formerly it was reached only by a hazardous 
 stairway rock, up which the inhabitants carried upon their backs every 
 particle of material used in constructing the pueblo. The graveyard 
 of this pueblo required 40 years in building, because of the fact that all 
 the earth was carried from the plains far below. Many generations were 
 required in building the immense church, whose walls are 60 feet high 
 and 10 feet thick. 
 
 According to tradition, the original Acoma pueblo stood upon the 
 crest of Mesa Encantada, three miles from the present pueblo, and that 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 287 
 
 its only approach was cut off, centuries ago, by the falling of a cliff. 
 The story goes that three sick women perished, the other occupants of the 
 pueblo being at work in the fields below. Investigations have been made 
 by scaling this crest by means of ropes and ladders, and a number of 
 potsherds and fragments of implements and ornaments were found upon 
 the summit. 
 
 Laguna, which means "the lake" was founded in 1699 by refugees 
 from Acoma, Zuni and Cochiti, on a high rock near the San Jose River. 
 Several great battles have been fought here with the Navajos and 
 Apaches. The Laguna Indians also occupy adjacent villages, such as 
 Paquate, Negra, Encinal and Casa Blanca. 
 
 Arriving at Albuquerque, the commercial metropolis of central New 
 Mexico, we were introduced to the crowning glory of the Sante Fe sys- 
 tem, the magnificent Hotel Alvarado. Fancifully garbed, stolid Indians, 
 crouched along the platform and at the hotel entrance offering their 
 wares for sale, added novel color and beauty to the picture. The hotel 
 itself is a widespreading, low building, like a great Spanish mission, save 
 for its newness. It has rough gray walls and a far-reaching procession 
 of arches, while towers and roof are red tiled, giving the quaintness and 
 oddness of the mission. Its interior is beautifully decorated and lux- 
 uriantly comfortable, while within its walls is one of the finest collection 
 of Indian curios extant. 
 
 The Indians were more gorgeously attired than any we had here- 
 tofore met. They displayed a shrewdness that stamped them as success- 
 ful tradesmen. Sir David who was versed in the early history of the 
 invasion of the white man into the lands of the Indian, had equipped 
 himself with beads and "near-gold" jewelry, which wasn't weighed by 
 the carat, but as carrots are measured; namely by the bushel. Sir 
 David was in hope that he might encounter some Indian in his journey 
 through the west who would gladly part with a gold mine or two, or 
 several townships, for the privilege of wearing some of this magnificent 
 jewelry, or trimming his frock with a string of the pure glass beads. 
 
 Sir David did not offer his treasures until Indians were met who dis- 
 played a richness of costume, which indicated their appreciation of royal 
 gems or massive "near-gold" creations. Spying a warrior brave, whose 
 costume bore nearly every color and shade known to man, Sir David 
 believed his hour had come for executing a profitable trade, and draw- 
 ing the Indian aside, he cautiously revealed to him a handul of his "all- 
 that-glistens-is-not-gold." 
 
 The Sir Knight explained that he had become heir to so much of 
 this jewelry of untold value, that he did not care to dispose of it by regu- 
 lar sale, in fear of creating suspicion that he was a pirate. He admitted 
 that he was willing to exchange some of his possessions for gold mines, 
 real estate or any other trifle in order that his holdings might be variated 
 
288 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 he was tired of having nothing but jewels. The Indian seemed much 
 impressed. He studied the brass rings, brooches and stick-pins care- 
 fully and seriously, while Sir David could see a pueblo or two coming 
 his way. Finally, with a last look, the Indian reached his hand far down 
 into the recesses of his pocket, and as he brought up what the Sir Knight 
 believed would be wealth of another kind, he drew out a handful of sim- 
 ilar jewelry and proposed that his white brother join him in partnership, 
 as he himself had been waiting several years to dispose of the same kind 
 of wealth for something more novel and substantial. Sir David's sur- 
 prise was as complete as it was sudden, and casting his supply of jewelry 
 at the feet of the Indian, suggested that he take it all and thereby corner 
 the market on a commodity that had lost its usefulness. 
 
 Meanwhile, Sir Kneps was having an equally disappointing experi- 
 ence with another Indian brave. He was attempting to interview one of 
 the chiefs in the presence of Sir Steinmiller, and for the special edifica- 
 tion of the latter. Sir Kreps had committed to memory several words 
 he had heard uttered by Indians of other tribes. To these he added a 
 few Spanish phrases, and with them attempted to open a conversation 
 with the Indian just to show his brother Sir Knight what an amazing 
 knowledge he had of the Indian tongue. However, after several efforts, 
 Sir Kreps did not get a reply, and the Indian stood statue-like, evidently 
 as much amazed as Sir Steinmiller. Sir Kreps then began to inject some 
 badly damaged Spanish into his questions. Then he tried some sprained 
 and dislocated German on the red man but even this didn't seem "to 
 take." After trying a dozen varieties of jargon, including some very 
 rusty Italian, Sir Kreps lost all patience, and in genuine English de- 
 manded of the bronze warrior: "What can you understand Can't you 
 talk ?" Instantly the Indian's face brightened up as he exclaimed : "Why 
 didn't you say so before? I couldn't understand you. I am not one of 
 the old hemlocks. I am not dead at the top. The forests are filled 
 with the ghosts of my fathers, and I can hear them moan and sigh 
 as the night winds blow through the pines but I do not speak in the 
 blank verse of a century ago. Give me two bits. You got heap money." 
 
 Sir Kreps bribed Sir Steinmiller with a cigar and offered to polish 
 his shoes, comb his hair and button his shirt during the balance of the 
 trip, if the latter would agree not to mention the incident to the "other 
 boys." 
 
 The city of Albuquerque lies at an altitude of 4,935 feet above the 
 sea level on the slope of a broad plain and is protected from storms by 
 the neighboring mountain ranges. The ancient settlement dates back 
 to the Spanish invasion, while the new city has a population of 10,000 
 and is modern in its appointments. Suburban communities adjacent to 
 the city would bring the total population up to 15,000. The University 
 of New Mexico* is located in Albuquerque, while a government Indian 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 289 
 
 School, with 300 students, is also located within the city limits. The shops 
 of the Santa Fe railroad are also located here and employ 700 men. One 
 of the great commercial factors is the handling of wool from the many 
 sheep ranges of the southwest. Of the 22,000,000 pounds of wool pro- 
 duced annually in New Mexico, Albuquerque merchants handle fully 
 one-fifth. Good railway facilities offer a bright future to the community. 
 The Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe gives access to all points north 
 and south, while the Santa Fe Pacific gives direct communication with 
 all the country between the Rio Grande and the Pacific coast. Eastern 
 New Mexico has never been in close touch with the city, but first class 
 facilities in that direction are promised by the new lines of the Santa Fe 
 Central and Albuquerque Eastern. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 EAVING Albuquerque we pushed upward along the Rio Grande 
 del Norte and Galisteo Rivers over the mountains. The quaint 
 and interesting towns of Almeda, Bernalillo, Algodores and Elota 
 were passed before we reached Thornton where a short stop was 
 made. 
 
 Here we were especially attracted by Indians who represented the 
 tribes that find their pueblos between Albuquerque and Thornton, in the 
 country that lies on either side of the railroad. Here the Santo Domingo 
 or Queres tribe finds its home in the bottom lands along the Rio Grande, 
 about three miles south of Thornton. 
 
 Their pueblo is built out of reach of the tortuous river this precau- 
 tion having been learned by the costly experience which wiped out the 
 old pueblo, built by the forefathers of the Queres. The new pueblo 
 is said to be much like the old, differing only in whitewash ornamen- 
 tations, which the red man has adopted from his pale face brethren. 
 
 It is in this region that the Indian women have also gained distinc- 
 tion in house-building. Additional credit must be given them, when one 
 considers that house-building in a pueblo is no delicate task, for they 
 are substantial structures of stone or burnt brick. Aside from this ardu- 
 ous undertaking, the women find time for routine household work (the 
 servant girl problem is unknown in this land of simple life) and consider- 
 able time is devoted each day to basketmaking and the manufacture 
 
 (19) 
 
290 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 of pottery as a means to gather the shekles from the traveling and visit- 
 ing public. Embroidery and weaving are but side issues with the busy 
 Queres. 
 
 The Queres are unlike other Indian tribes in the southwest in their 
 treatment of women. In many other pueblos the squaw is little else than 
 a beast of burden a slave who is destined to toil without murmur. But 
 here women's rights are recognized. Not only are the women house- 
 builders, but house-owners as well, and are heads of the household from 
 every standpoint. 
 
 Notwithstanding the many duties of the Queres Indian woman, the 
 man now performs much of the work which was formerly alloted to the 
 woman. They work in the fields, cut wood, .traffic in pottery and basket 
 work, secure and prepare the meals, and in many instances have proved 
 themselves tender and careful nurses in caring for the puny little pa- 
 poose with fatherly pride. 
 
 "Corn day" is the great festival occasion among the Queres and 
 many other tribes. The services are partly religious and partly pagan. 
 Mass is said during the early morning hours, after which the firing of a 
 gun is the signal that the idol or image-bearing procession has left the 
 church. The first group of native dancers then appear. They are selected 
 braves tall, well formed and stripped, with the exception of breech 
 cloths. They are known as "delight men" and on their moccasins are 
 branches of cedar, while their head dress is a "corn" design. Their 
 bodies and faces are painted for the occasion with a white substance sim- 
 ilar to a weak solution of whitewash, while on their arms, legs, bodies and 
 faces are drawn fantastic black lines and circles. 
 
 Following the appearance of these men the estufas begin to pour 
 forth other hordes of dancers, men and women the latter in sombre 
 black short skirts, with bodice loose and draping off on one shoulder and 
 caught at the waist by a belt of red cord and perfectly straight. Green 
 cedar branches are the decorations, and the women bear branches of this 
 in their hands, which they wave in rhythmic, monotonous fashion. 
 
 The braves are painted much like the "delight men" and bear dance 
 "rattles" in their hands, while on their legs are tied by ribbons the little 
 tinkling bells that chime in with the tom-tom and jingle of the dance. 
 Usually the dancers are in two relays the first numbering 95 and the 
 second 65, men and women. 
 
 Besides the dancers and the "delight men" are choirs ( ?) numbering 
 25 to 30 alleged singers each, who chant in tones of moaning, and gut- 
 teralings and staccatos, in an effort to present weird hymns and prayers. 
 To the accompaniment of this choir, led by a banner bearer and a tom- 
 tom beater, the dancers file out on the plaza in a long column, squaws 
 behind the bucks, who begin at first a simple springing dance. The men 
 dance, the women simply move their feet in time to the music, never 
 
" Santa Fi all the WOL)." Caurltijr Mr. Frank S. Thaji 
 
 THE CAMERA IN THE SOUTHWEST. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 291 
 
 lifting them. Soon the cries deepen from the choir, the "delight men" 
 hop and prance in frantic contortions of body and arms, the long column 
 breaks into circles, semi-circles and swaying groups. 1 ne dancing grows 
 fiercer, and the chanting rises and falls in monotonous rhythm. 
 
 One relay retires to the estufa and another is ready to take up the 
 refrain and the gyrations. At intervals a sharp, piercing yell is heard 
 from some choir leader, and the wave of religious fervor rolls upward 
 and the painted bodies sway and quicken until the mass seems an un- 
 earthly thing of writhing, many-colored forms. This dancing and chant- 
 ing is kept up on the sands of a hot open plaza for hours without a 
 moment's intermission. It is a most wonderful and fantastic exhibition 
 of savage fervor and endurance. 
 
 After seven hours of this dancing and gyrating the participants show 
 signs of vast physical strain. There are no "break-downs," no need for 
 an ambulance, but as the shadows lengthen across the plaza and the twi- 
 light begins to creep down from the adjoining canyons the worshipers 
 by common consent or under the direction of the leaders fall away and 
 with painted faces and blood-shot eyes there are ample signs of the ter- 
 rible strain under which they have made this festival oblation to their 
 god. 
 
 It is but a short ride from Thornton to Lamy, from which point, a 
 spur of the railroad, running northwest, carries one to that quaint and 
 antique town of Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico, and with the ex- 
 ception of St. Augustine, Fla., the oldest city in the United States. 
 
 Centuries seem to have wrought but little change in the town of 
 Santa Fe, which still dozes comfortably on a sunny plain, surrounded by 
 a rim of mountains whose peaks tower from 10,000 to 13,000 feet. 
 
 In the very early days, long before the arrival of the Pilgrims at 
 Plymouth, Santa Fe was an Indian pueblo, and in 1605 the Spaniards 
 came, conquered and reduced the Indians to slavery and worked them 
 relentlessly in the gold and silver mines. Among the old archives is 
 found a census taken at that time, 1605, which gives a population of 
 1,708 inhabitants. In 300 years time this population has increased to 
 about 8,000. 
 
 In the older sections of the town, the streets are narrow and crooked, 
 and many of the buildings exist as they did a hundred or more years ago, 
 the majority of which are constructed of adobe, or sun-dried brick. The 
 Governor's Palace, a long, one-story structure, which faces on the princi- 
 pal open space, known as the Plaza, was built during the early Spanish 
 regime, and has been used constantly as the official residence of the chief 
 executive under whatever title and authority he served. Eighteen 
 American, and 76 Mexican and Spanish rulers have occupied the palace, 
 and it was in this building that Gen. Lew Wallace, then territorial gover- 
 nor of New Mexico, wrote his famous book, "Ben Hur." The story of 
 
292 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 the palace stretches back into real antiquity, to a time when the Inquisi- 
 tion had power, when zealous friars exhorted throngs of dimly compre- 
 hending heathens, and when the mailed warriors of Coronado told mar- 
 velous uncontradicted tales of ogres, that were believed to dwell in the 
 surrounding wilderness. 
 
 Beneath its roof are garnered priceless treasures of that ancient 
 time, which are in the custody of the New Mexican Historical Society, 
 and which include paintings, idol offerings, stone gods, ancient domestic 
 utensils, and implements of war and valuable historical data. 
 
 Seventy-five years after the capture of the Indian pueblo by the 
 Spaniards, or in 1680, the Indians recaptured and pillaged the town and 
 massacred such missionaries and explorers who failed to flee with the 
 governor to El Paso during the night of the uprising. Twelve years 
 later, in 1692, Diego de Vargas, marching up from the south, mounted 
 a hill overlooking the town with a little army of 200 countrymen. He 
 viewed the place from whence his people had been driven and where they 
 had been slaughtered a dozen years before ; and vowing vengeance, 
 swooped down upon the Indians, and in concentrated attack opened battle 
 which resulted in the restoration of Spanish rule. In 1821 the to>wn 
 passed into Mexican rule, and in 1846 United States troups under Gen. 
 S. W. Kearney took possession of the town. The stirring scenes accom- 
 panying the destruction of the traffic of the Santa Fe Trail, the wild 
 deeds of the desperados, and the fabulous hazards at cards, in the days 
 before the advent of the railroad, afford material for an epic poem of the 
 deepest interest. 
 
 So uniformly old and well preserved are the buildings of this an- 
 cient town that the palace and San Miguel church, which was first built 
 in 1540, are still in use. The church, which is said to be the oldest in the 
 United States, was destroyed by the Indians and rebuilt in 1710. So 
 few changes have been made in the old quarter that if some sturdy figure 
 in bright, clanking armor should obligingly pass by, an exact picture ol 
 the place would be reproduced, as it appeared 250 years ago. Nothing 
 but such a figure has departed from the scene, and substantially nothing 
 new has entered in. 
 
 In the newer section of the town wide streets have been introduced 
 as well as some very modern buildings, and with this as a contrast, Santa 
 Fe offers object lessons whereby the civilization of the seventeenth and 
 eighteenth centuries can be compared and contrasted to the nineteenth 
 and twentieth centuries. 
 
 Within a radius of 50 miles, with Santa Fe as the center, lies the 
 heart of New Mexico, with its richest gold, silver, copper, lead, iron and 
 coal mines, and deposits of marble, clay and turquoise. In this circle 
 there is also room for profitable irrigation enterprise. Here are located 
 the famous cliff dwellings, the pyramids of America, 10 Indian pueblos, 
 

 THE CAMERA 
 
 THE SOUTHWEST. 
 
 I Indian Pottery, etc. 2 Gallinas Canon, Las Vegas, Hot Springs. 3 Montezuma Hotel. Las Vegas, Hot Springs. 4 
 A Hopi Mother with Baby in Basket-work Cradle. $ Apache Girl. 6 Isleti Women. 7 -Kiow.i Woman and Child. 8 
 Nayaho Baby in Cradle. 9 Navaho Mother with Child. lo Hop! Girt and Baby. n A Woman of Sia. 12 Oraibi Girls 
 Grinding Corn. 13 Making Bread ( Piki ). 14 San Juan Girl, is Tulare Woman Milling, Tule Reservation. 16 Papago 
 Woman with Wood-carrying Basket. 17 Harvesting Manzanita Berries, Mono, Hookers Cove, Madera County. '8 Hotel 
 Gardenas, at Trinidad, iq A Pima Basket Maker. 20 Hopi Maiden Weaving a Plaque. 21 Oldest House in United States, 
 Santa F6. 22 Hotel Alvarado, Albuquerque, N. M. 24 Firing Pottery, Acoma. 2<; Potters. 26 Burro Alley, Santa F6. 
 27-20 Street Scene, Santa F6. 28 The Plaza, Santa F6. 31 A Hopi'Pottery Maker. 23 Stock Yards, Kansas City, Mo. 
 30 Stock Exchange, Kansas City, Mo. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 293 
 
 the oldest buildings in the United States and hundreds of other spots 
 which awaken memories of romance more fascinating than fiction and 
 which bridge the great stretch of time between the coming of the Con- 
 quistadores and the supplanting of the Santa Fe Trail by the railroad 
 of that name. 
 
 Crossing the Glorieta range of the Rockies, through Glorieta Pass, 
 whose altitude is 7,453 feet, and passing Starvation Peak, where legend 
 says a band of Spaniards were surrounded and starved to death by In- 
 dians in 1800, one comes to the pretty little town of Las Vegas. 
 
 It is situated on both sides of the Gallinas River and has a popula- 
 tion of about 10,000. While portions of the old town are quaint and 
 picturesque, Las Vegas as a whole is modern and thrifty. Its history 
 dates from 1835, when Mexico founded a colony there, and gave 500,000 
 acres to the community for colonization and agricultural purposes. In 
 the romantic mountain glens, surrounding Las Vegas are located many 
 noted and picturesque health resorts, among them being: Las Vegas 
 Hot Springs, Harvey's, El Porvenir, Sandoval's, Mineral Hill, Romero 
 Ranch, Blakes, Sparks, Sapello and Rociada. 
 
 Las Vegas is the headquarters for the New Mexico division of the 
 Santa Fe railroad system, and railroad machine shops are located there. 
 While we were in Las Vegas a monument to Pittsburgh was under con- 
 struction, in the erection of a Carnegie Library. Throughout our pil- 
 grimage we saw an almost continuous chain of these book repositories, 
 and we felt that every time these buildings spelled the word "Carnegie" 
 that the word "Pittsburgh" was unconsciously but ever present. Sir 
 Benkart, in discussing the libraries, declared that he could not help ad- 
 miring Mr. Carnegie, because of his diplomacy, for instead of "painting 
 the town red" he had made it well-read, by more graceful means. 
 
 Las Vegas means "The Meadows" and the term is most appropri- 
 ate, as the town has grown at the very verge of plain and mountain, 
 where the meadows gradually broaden until they finally open into the 
 broad New Mexican plain that sweeps away toward the southeast. 
 
 After we left Las Vegas for Raton, the first town of any import is 
 Watrous. This place lies at the head of Mora Canyon near old Fort 
 Union. Mora Canyon is 50 miles long, rather modest in comparison 
 to the Apache Canyon and the great gorges of Arizona, but neverthe- 
 less impressive and rich in beauty. Wagon Mound is an oddly named 
 town, which was formerly a Mexican frontier customhouse, and a 
 picturesque point on the Santa Fe Trail. The community is rich in 
 legend and has interesting landmarks. The town of Springer is the 
 supply point for the Red River mines and Taos pueblo, while the 
 town takes a special pride in its mineral water artesian wells. 
 
 Raton is almost on the northern boundry line of the territory ol 
 New Mexico and but a short distance from Colorado. It is one of the 
 
most prosperous towns in the southwest and is known as the "Gate City" 
 of New Mexico. It lies in the shadow of the Raton Mountains and is in 
 the center of a rich coal mining region and promising oil field. 
 
 As our train climbed the winding mountain pass and rushed through 
 a long tunnel out of New Mexico, we carried away impressions of the 
 wonderful opportunities of this land in the sky. 
 
 Were all the hills and mountains of New Mexico leveled into its 
 valleys, its entire area would be spread out upon a plain of 120,000 
 square miles that would stand higher above the sea than the highest peak 
 in the Catskill or Adirondack Mountains. Its air is rarefied, its scenery 
 rich in color. It has its forests, rich red soil and great rivers, as well 
 as its prairies, mountains, rock walls, canyons and dead volcanoes and 
 lava beds. 
 
 One never fully appreciates the rapid strides of American progress 
 until he has traveled in a Pullman car over a waste that 25 years ago 
 was a journey of wild adventure and hazard of life. The Valley of 
 Death and Journey of the Dead are names still borne by waterless tracts, 
 and justified by the bleached bones of cattle and mounds of scattered 
 graves. 
 
 Rescued from centuries of horror, New Mexico is now a land of 
 broad ranges, where thousands upon thousands of sheep and cattle 
 browse upon nutritious grasses; where fields of grain wave in harmony 
 with the breeze; where orchard trees bend under the weight of luscious 
 fruits and where the rocks lay bare veins of ore and metal. 
 
 Large and profitable ranches are being established in great num- 
 bers as well as innumerable small farms. This is the paradox of a region 
 whose softer scenes will often seem to be overborne by bleak mountains, 
 desert and lava beds. Scattered by the wayside are sleepy Mexican 
 villages, ancient Indian pueblos, and those older abandoned ruins which 
 give the region its peculiar air of mystery. 
 
 The major portion of the resources of New Mexico are still latent; 
 its wealth is undeveloped. There is an average of but two inhabitants 
 to each square mile, and but one acre out of each 300 under cultivation. 
 Mining is in its infancy and the natural water power and fuel which 
 abounds, is almost untouched. The whole territory of New Mexico with 
 its area of 122,469 square miles embraces a population not equal in num- 
 bers to that of the city of Pittsburgh. 
 
 Out of a total of 78,000,000 acres but 250,000 are in cultivation 
 under irrigation ditches and there is a vast opening for enterprise in re- 
 claiming broad areas of fertile land. Nor is there lack of water for re- 
 claiming at least a portion of this vast arid domain. The flood waters 
 which flow to waste annually, the ordinary flow of the rivers and streams 
 that run unused, the cheapness of pumping water from unfailing wells in 
 many sections, and the undoubted existence of large artesian belts, all 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 295 
 
 promise that eventually, a large portion of the territory will be under suc- 
 cessful irrigation. 
 
 New Mexico can properly be divided into three distinct regions: 
 the Eastern Plains, the Rio Grande Valley and the Western Plateau. 
 The eastern portion is an extension of the high plains of Texas, broken 
 by the waters of the Canadian and Pecos Rivers. This broad stretch 
 of open grazing land continues to the uplands which form the southern 
 extension of the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. Beyond this broken 
 country is the Rio Grande Valley, and still further west are the elevated, 
 arid table lands. In the Rio Grande section are a few very large irri- 
 gation canals and many small community ditches held by Indians and 
 settlers alike. The development of the agricultural resources depends 
 largely upon the control of the Rio Grande. The inflow from many 
 streams maintain the river at good volume in the northern section. 
 Large dams constructed at these points would render it possible to store 
 great quantities of water for the irrigation of a number of open valleys 
 along the course of the river. Irrigation on the eastern plain is of com- 
 paratively recent introduction. 
 
 New Mexico does not, however, depend entirely upon the water 
 from flowing streams or stored flood waters. There are many artesian 
 wells, developed to their greatest extent. Then there is a great under- 
 ground flow in nearly every river valley, which is available by pumping. 
 
 The great American Desert, of which New Mexico was once a part, 
 almost in entirety, is gradually disappearing, as flourishing orchards, and 
 vineyards and gardens have sprung up to succeed the cactus, and hide 
 the sandy waste. The greatest blow at this mythical desert which is 
 only a desert because of lack of water was the passage of a National 
 Irrigation bill, which will transform a large portion of this expanse into 
 a section of dense and productive population. 
 
 As we emerged from Raton Pass tunnel, which stands at an eleva- 
 tion of 7,600 feet, we came in sight of the ruins of the old toll-house, 
 where for many years the famous veteran, Dick Wooten, collected toll 
 from those who used the wagon trail through the pass. Both ruin and 
 trail are of interest as belonging to the ante-railroad period of thrilling 
 adventure ; for by that road and past the site of the now dilapidated toll- 
 house journeyed every overland stage, every prairie schooner, every cara- 
 van, every emigrant, and every soldier cavalcade bound to the south- 
 western country in the early days. A little beyond and we faced a bound- 
 ary post marked on one side "New Mexico" and whose other side bore 
 the inscription "Colorado." 
 
 Trinidad, the first stop made in Colorado, is the Connellsville of the 
 west, for its coke ovens and coke industry are unequalled beyond the 
 Mississippi. Trinidad is also a center for coal, iron and woolen indus- 
 tries of no mean proportions. Lying at the base of Raton Pass, Trinidad 
 
296 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 has an "uphill" fight for suburban growth, yet there are many handsome 
 buildings in this city of manufacture. One of the most attractive is a 
 modern Santa Fe-Harvey hotel, known as Hotel Cardenas, and named 
 after the first white man who saw the Grand Canyon. The hotel is in 
 the highly impressive mission style of architecture, and its appointments 
 are up to the Santa Fe and Harvey standards. 
 
 It was here, at Trinidad, that Sir Beckert left the "happy family" 
 for a few days hunt in the mountains. He said he was going to seek 
 bear. We thought it a bare tale. Sir McFarland felt sure that Sir 
 Beckert was only hunting trouble, while Sir Lee was convinced that he 
 was going to hunt mushrooms or listen to the trees bark. Sir Watson 
 was much discomforted when told that Sir Beckert had gone to hunt 
 game, and announced that he need not have gone into the wilderness : 
 We could give him any kind of a game he wanted, right here, and saved 
 him money." Sir Bader explained that he wasn't hunting pinochle. At 
 any rate, we left Sir Beckert behind with our best wishes. 
 
 As we whirled across the gray-brown plains of Colorado, at almost 
 a mile-a-minute clip, we amused ourselves watching the antics and 
 capers of the prairie dogs. Countless hundreds were at play, at work, 
 sitting on their haunches, or scampering about. 
 
 A brief stop was made at La Junta where a branch line of the Santa 
 Fe runs almost directly north to the city of Denver. La Junta's chief 
 import lies in its position as a railroad center for the surrounding 
 country. Las Animas, the next stop, is rich in the heritage of legends 
 and frontier stories. It was in this vicinity that Kit Carson made Bent's 
 his headquarters for a time when the Arapahoes, Kiowas and Cheyennes 
 wintered at Big Timbers, and when Fort William (later known as Fort 
 Lyon) afforded security for the frontiersmen in time of unusual danger. 
 Pike's Peak is clearly distinguishable from Las Animas, although 100 
 miles distant, and the two Spanish Peaks hover upon the horizon. 
 
 It is here that Colorado presents itself as a plateau elevated 4,000 
 feet above the sea, railway and river continuing as close neighbors 
 through the gently ascending plains. 
 
 The Arkansas Valley, all the way from La Junta to the Kansas 
 state line and beyond, is in summer comparable to an endless green rib- 
 bon, stretched loosely across the wide gray prairie. Its alfalfa fields, 
 melon patches, beet sugar acres and enterprising towns stand as undis- 
 putable evidence that irrigation pays. 
 
 La Junta, Las Animas, Rocky Ford, Lamar and Holly are the 
 centers of this irrigated district whose pastoral prosperity are in marked 
 contrast to the grim and forbidding mountains we had just left. 
 
 Four miles west of Holly, just before reaching the Kansas state line, 
 is the little colony established by the Salvation Army, and known as 
 Fort Amity. This community consists of 1,800 acres, upon which 250 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 297 
 
 colonists have been gathered out of the crowded cities. Agriculture is 
 indulged in, along somewhat co-operative lines, and considerable success 
 has marked the venture. 
 
 Passing Holly we entered the state of Kansas and greeted Syracuse 
 as the first stop. Garden City, the next town, is the location of an im- 
 portant government agriculture experimental station. Dodge City of 
 cowboy fame, where Mountain Time is succeeded by Central Time for 
 the east-bound tourist, was our next stop. Dodge City is rapidly becom- 
 ing a manufacturing point of much import, and its "wild and wooly" 
 early history has been obliterated. As we passed the station of Larned 
 we were reminded of the fact that on an island opposite, in the Arkansas 
 River, a fierce battle was fought in 1870 between hostile Cheyennes and 
 Arapahoes. Pawnee Rock, derives its name from a high rock north of 
 the little station, where many fierce Indian battles were fought, and 
 where Generals Hancock and Robert E. Lee and Kit Carson made note- 
 worthy visits. Great Bend, which is a railroad junction, is just west of 
 the ruins of old Fort Zarah. 
 
 The Santa Fe railroad, across this vast agricultural country, follows 
 the old Santa Fe trail. In the days of prairie schooner trains the trail 
 began at Westport (now Kansas City) and followed the Kaw River to 
 Lawrence, thence over the hills to Burlingame and Council Grove; the 
 Arkansas Valley being reached at Fort Zarah (now Great Bend). The 
 trail crept up this valley to Bent's Fort which is now Las Animas, and 
 climbed the mountain through Raton Pass. 
 
 It is but thirty years ago that the Comanches and Pawnees made 
 almost every mile of the toilsome, slow passage through Kansas danger- 
 ous for the wagon trains that would slowly cross the plains laden with 
 traffic for the southwest. Except those heavily guarded by military 
 escorts, they were subject to frequent attacks by day and. night. Mem- 
 ories of those fighting days reflect themselves upon the mind of the trav- 
 eler as he, today, speeds over the same pathway in a luxuriant parlor car. 
 
 Kansas is as rich in Indian lore as are New Mexico and Arizona, 
 although today the red man has given way almost entirely to his white 
 brethren. Less than a half-century ago the broad plains of Kansas were 
 peopled with many fierce, warlike Indian tribes, the survivors of which 
 are now chiefly in Indian Territory. There, some of them are becoming 
 rich, owing to their advancement in civilization and industrial pursuits, 
 but chiefly by the oil booms that have visited that portion of the country. 
 
 Years ago Kansas was the roaming ground for the Cheyennes, Ara- 
 pahoes, Kiowas, Pawnees, Osages and other tribes, but one by one they 
 were removed to Indian Territory where reservations were allotted them. 
 Some consented to remain, but others, like the Kiowas, continually es- 
 caped and harassed neighboring Indians and white settlers. 
 
 Previous to the time when the Indians were colonized by the govern- 
 
298 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 ment, the state of Kansas was divided, geographically, by the red men. 
 The Cheyennes and Arapahoes domineered western Kansas ; the Oto, 
 Missouri and Kaw tribes held sway in northeastern Kansas ; the Kiowa 
 held southwestern Kansas ; the Osage tribe roamed southeastern Kansas, 
 and central Kansas was the battlefield where these tribes often met and 
 fought their differences. 
 
 Evidences of former Indian life is still seen in Kansas, and here and 
 there a few Indians may be encountered tilling the soil, owning farms, 
 and living the life of good citizens. 
 
 Continuing across the state of Kansas, a series of vigorous young 
 cities were seen at frequent intervals, including Hutchinson, which is 
 famous for its salt industry; Burrton and Newton, in the vicinity of 
 which is the colony of the Mennonites, a Russian sect that fled to Ameri- 
 ca from the domain of the Czar to find relief from oppression. Flor- 
 ence, Strong City, Emporia and Osage City were passed in the order 
 named. 
 
 Topeka, which is the state capital of Kansas was reached late in the 
 evening. It is a well-groomed city, with broad avenues and innumerable 
 shade trees, and is conceded to be one of the prettiest capitals in the 
 west. Here are the general offices and principal shops of the Santa Fe 
 railroad system and several imposing state buildings. 
 
 Sixty-seven miles from the Missouri and built on both sides of the 
 Kansas River is the city of Topeka with a population of about 35,000. 
 In this eastern portion of Kansas, prior to the Civil War, was fought, 
 often with bloodshed, the protracted border contest between the Free- 
 soil and Pro-slavery parties, for the possession of the State, that had so 
 much to do with bringing on the greater conflict. 
 
 When Congress passed the bill in 1854 organizing Nebraska and 
 Kansas into territories, an effort was made to establish slavery, and the 
 Missourians, coming over the border, tried to control the situation. They 
 founded Atchison and other places and sent in settlers. At the same 
 time Aid Societies for anti-slavery emigrants began colonizing from New 
 England, large numbers thus coming to pre-empt lands. During four 
 years the contest went on, Lawrence and other towns being besieged and 
 burnt. The first Free-State Constitution was framed at Topeka in 1855, 
 which Congress would not approve, and the following year Pro-Slavery 
 Constitution was enacted in Lecompton, which the people rejected. 
 After the Civil War began, Kansas was admitted into the Union in 1861, 
 with slavery prohibited. Among the Free-Soilers who went out to en- 
 gage in these Kansas conflicts was "Old John Brown." Near the Mis- 
 souri border, to the southward of Kansas River, is the little town of Oso- 
 watomie, in the early settlement of which Brown took part. Here he 
 had his fights with the slavery invaders who came over from Missouri, 
 finally burned the place, killing Brown's son a tragedy said to have 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 299 
 
 inspired his subsequent crusade against Harper's Ferry, which practi- 
 cally opened the Civil War. A monument is erected to the memory of 
 John Brown in Osowatomie. 
 
 The Civil War ended all these conflicts, and since its conclusion 
 Kansas has been eminently peaceful. It has become the leading State 
 in the corn belt which broadly crosses the middle of the United States. 
 Its vast corn crops make the wealth of the people, and as the crops are 
 from year to year good or poor so is Kansas either in joy or de- 
 spair. One year the farmers will be overwhelmed with debt ; the next 
 brings an ample crop, and all debts are paid leaving the growers in 
 affluence. Thus throbs the pulse as the sunshine and rains may vary a 
 corn crop in the State that sometimes exceeds 350,000,000 bushels, at 
 which time there are usually not enough railroad cars available to carry 
 away the product. We saw cornstalks growing to great height, some 
 reaching 20 feet to the surmounting tassel, while it required a tall man 
 on tip-toe to touch the ears. A two-pound ear is customary weight, 
 while 30 to 35 ears will measure a bushel. Our train carried us through 
 cornfields which spread out on both sides of the track as far as the eye 
 could scan the horizon. Leaving Topeka en route to Lawrence, the 
 train passed historic Lecompton, the early territorial capital of Kansas 
 once the strenuous pro-slavery stronghold, today a quiet country 
 village. 
 
 It is interesting to note and study human nature at close range. 
 Types differ in states. Despite modern artificialities, we remain strik- 
 ingly the children of Mother Earth and easily and naturally follow her 
 mothership in lineaments, spirit and general attitude toward the world 
 around us. Where the earth loam is black and rich, and the field* 
 smile back a prosperous answer to the plowshare, the human product 
 shows a ready assurance, a self-reliance and courage, that is in igno- 
 rance almost a swagger, but under higher mental culture becomes the 
 resonant answer of a nation's best and truest manhood and woman- 
 hood. 
 
 At the Kansas stations, that lay as railway sluices through which 
 rich and generous crops are poured into the lap of the world, even the 
 boys who peddled apples or sold newspapers had an air of satisfied 
 American assurance in their dickerings. They had drawn their inde- 
 pendence and sturdiness from that loam, and had drawn the scent of 
 ripening and prosperous harvests through their nostrils into their blood, 
 and so knew only courage and fearless consciousness. In the poor 
 places and at the curb side in the big cities humanity shrivels percep- 
 tibly. In the dull gray of the surroundings of cropless lands and "razor 
 back" hogs the children slink away from the stranger's glance, and their 
 forbears look at you askance from under slouch hats. We saw little 
 
300 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 of this in our spin across the country, but enough of it to beget a con- 
 trast that has lessons as old as our earthly humanity. 
 
 Lawrence, whose very name for years called to mind the horrors 
 of the Quantrell raid and the massacre of its defenseless citizens, is 
 now the most flourishing of peaceful towns and is the seat of the Uni- 
 versity of Kansas and of Haskell Institute, a noteworthy school for 
 Indians. 
 
 The vast plains, whereon the Indian, antelope and buffalo roamed 
 supreme are now the scenes of important cities and are now counted as 
 the second most important agricultural area in the country. Not far 
 from Lawrence, is St. Joseph, Mo., Atchison, Leavenworth and Kansas 
 City. St. Joseph with its population of 60,000, is a most important 
 railroad center, has important stock yards and many factories; Atchi- 
 son, with 20,000 population, is the point where the Atchison railway 
 system formerly had its initial point, though it now begins its western 
 run from Chicago; Leavenworth is a city of 25,000 which has grown 
 at the site of Fort Leavenworth, one of the most important military 
 posts in the frontier days. 
 
 Night came on as we continued our ride to Kansas City. Trie 
 earth was as the heart of a golden cup. The track clove the ripe wheat 
 and corn as a lance piercing the glowing embers of the sunset. Other 
 light there was none, for the September day was over ; but in the gol- 
 den wheat reflecting against the profound azure of the sky its warm 
 memory lingered. Across the tranquil fields we swept, and as the 
 heads of the golden stalks of grain drooped in their cradle of green we 
 were gradually moved to sympathetic action and sought our berths. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 UESDAY morning, September 20, found us in Kansas City. We 
 were greeted at the station by a committee of Sir Knights who 
 gave us a rousing reception. Sir J. G. Rode, of Kansas City, 
 one of the receiving delegation and one of the older members of 
 that party, was exceptionally solicitous for our welfare. 
 
 After formally extending our thanks to the management of the 
 Santa Fe railroad, whose terminal is in Kansas City, and expressing 
 our gratitude to the employees of that system for their kindnesses, we 
 were escorted to the Midland Hotel. Our appreciation of the courteous 
 treatment accorded us by the officials and employees of the Santa Fe 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 301 
 
 was evidenced by the many expressions of regret that the delightful 
 ride had terminated. 
 
 We had not felt so much at home for a long time as we did when 
 we "raised the hill" and viewed the city for the first time. In some re- 
 spects the city resembled Pittsburgh, although it did not have our sky- 
 scrapers. The stirring business look of the thoroughfares, the fast 
 walkers and a driving and smothering cloud of smoke was so like a 
 message from our own dear, native city, that we could hardly refrain 
 from shedding a few grateful tears and execrations in the old time- 
 honored, American way. We saw only Pittsburgh. Look up street 
 or down, we saw nothing but Liberty Avenue and the Union Station 
 of old. 
 
 Following luncheon, we made a tour of the city by means of the 
 street cars. There is an institution in Kansas City which the Beef 
 Trust did not originate. That is the street cars. They are on parade 
 all day long and form a varied-colored light procession at night. We 
 were informed that we could "go anywhere" in the Kansas City street 
 cars and we tried it. 
 
 Previously we had been informed that at a certain point in the 
 city there was a highly interesting collection of antiquities, heirlooms, 
 relics and second-hand clothing worn by distinguished pioneers. We 
 learned that we could find fragments of homes that were broken up 
 by Indian raids, and an old chair that had been the first "seat of justice." 
 There were said to be scores of things which had made a great im- 
 pression upon the minds of the early settlers, such as tomahawks, flint- 
 lock guns and Indian war clubs. All these, as well as other ancient 
 objects of interest, were in this collection which we started out to seek. 
 
 As we desired to see all the sights, we decided to board a "Seeing 
 Kansas City Car," (no relation to the "Seeing Denver" poverty-stricken 
 family.) Johnston went straight to the furthermost end of the car 
 and sat down beside a young lady, whom he said filled the whole car 
 with sunshine. Jqhnston was so happy that he gave the conductor 
 50 cents and told him to keep the change. Soon a colored woman of 
 prodigious weight entered the car and sought the same location as 
 occupied by Johnston and his handsome neighbor. She aimed to wedge 
 herself between the two, "but ah," said Johnston to himself, "I will 
 fool thee." So he moved closer to the pretty girl. Meanwhile the 
 stout, colored party had backed up to the place of her selection, and 
 where Johnston had hastily decided to place himself. As the corpulent 
 woman had sighed a breath of relief and lowered herself, with the 
 assistance of a sudden lurch on the part of the car, there was a tragic 
 collision as she fell into Johnston's lap. She nestled in his bosom like 
 a tired baby elephant. To say that he was crushed in spirit, body and 
 mind and without breath to make an official statement, is putting the 
 
302 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 case mildly. He admitted that she was the heaviest woman that he 
 had ever held, and that he was "completely smitten" by her. She 
 was a Laplander in the truest sense of the term. 
 
 Our tour around the city and through the suburbs was rife with 
 interest. We found the city to be the focus of heavy cattle and general 
 railroad traffic, with 17 different railroads converging in the city. With 
 the exception of St. Louis, it is the largest city in Missouri, and few 
 communities have grown great so rapidly. It was one of the first 
 cities to adopt electric lights, cable and elevated roads. Its fire de- 
 partment had always been reputed as being among the very best in 
 the country. It has an immense distributing trade throughout Kansas 
 and the Southwest. Kansas City in Kansas, on the opposite side of 
 the Kansas (or Kaw) River, is virtually a part of the same city as 
 to business interests. 
 
 It is here that the Kansas River flows into the Missouri, cutting 
 in two this twin city, whose growth has only been attained since the 
 Civil War, with the aid of a prodigious development of the railways. 
 Three fine bridges join the cities, both having a total population of about 
 225,000, the largest being Kansas City in Missouri on the southern 
 river bank. 
 
 Next to Chicago, Kansas City has the largest stock yards and pack- 
 ing house plants in the country, and does an enormous trade in cattle, 
 dressed meats and grain, many railroads radiating in all directions. 
 The site was originally the home of the Wyandotte Indians, who came 
 from Ohio in 1843, an d whose name the town bore previous to the 
 Civil War. 
 
 The Missouri River traverses the entire state of Missouri in a 
 winding, turbid current from west to east. It passes Jefferson City, 
 the state capital, which has a population of 8,000 and just below re- 
 ceives the Osage River coming up from the southwest. At Chilli- 
 cothe to the northwest, is buried Nelson Kneiss, who composed the 
 music for Thomas Dunn English's popular ballad, "Ben Bolt;" and 
 in Florida to the northeast was born in November 1835, Samuel L. 
 Clemens, the humorist, better known as "Mark Twain." Captain Sel- 
 lers, who furnished river news to the New Orleans Picayune, had used 
 this nom-de-plume, and, dying in 1863, Clemens adopted it. Twenty 
 miles above St. Louis the Missouri flows into the Mississippi, con- 
 tributing the greater volume of water to the joint stream. The clear 
 Mississippi waters, pushed over to the eastern bank, refuse for a long 
 distance below to mingle with the turbid flow of the Missouri. 
 
 The Kansas side of the river is being more and more famed for 
 its rich oil fields, and this afforded special interest to Sir Knight Reel, 
 lola, Allen county, is the northeastern point of the Kansas oil and gas 
 belt, and is south and slightly west of Kansas City. Allen and the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 303 
 
 two adjoining counties, Woodson and Greenwood, constitute the gen- 
 eral northern boundary of the oil and gas region which includes nine 
 counties, or 4,500 square miles. The region is rivaling Northwestern 
 Pennsylvania in the palmiest days of the great oil excitement, and the 
 state is enjoying an era of remarkable prosperity. 
 
 Our tour of two hours about the streets of Kansas City had brought 
 to our attention the fact that all the negroes in the world are not colo- 
 nized on Wylie Avenue, Pittsburgh. 
 
 As we sauntered towards the hotel, we found a number of pub- 
 lic entertainers located on prominent corners of the principal thorough- 
 fares. Sirs Bader and Coombs, who liked the drama, became fascinated 
 with a "Punch and Judy" show, whose greater interest lay in guessing 
 which of the mutilated figures was "Judy" and which was "Punch" 
 both having been punched into unrecognizable shape. Sirs Coombs and 
 Bader, however, were deeply impressed by the performance and when 
 "Punch" had finally completed the massacre of "Judy" and her whole 
 family, they were visibly touched for a nickel each by the seedy ma- 
 nipualtor. 
 
 Further down the street, Sir Craig enticed Sirs Baumann, Bader 
 and McFarland into a crowd that had gathered about a man widely 
 gesticulating and chattering over a dry goods box, which was 
 covered with a horse blanket. Frequently he would bend down and 
 take hold of the blanket with the extreme tips of his fingers, as if to 
 show that there was no deception chattering away all the time but 
 just as they were expecting to witness a wonderful feat of prestidigitation, 
 he would let go of the blanket and rise to further explain. Even- 
 tually he uncovered the box to get out a small can containing liquid, 
 and held it out for public inspection as a further evidence of good 
 faith and to assure the audience that he was taking no advantages. 
 Meanwhile his chatter became more excited than ever. Sir Craig ex- 
 claimed: "Watch him do the fire act. He is going to set fire to it 
 and swallow the liquid." Everyone became greatly wrought up and 
 interested, and brought forth a penny, ready to compensate the per- 
 former, if he survived. But just as excitement was at its height, and 
 as Sir Bader had borrowed a cent from Sir Craig, the performer ( ?) 
 ended his intensely interesting entertainment by holding the liquid aloft 
 and with a wild exultation, as if achieving miracles, began removing 
 stains from an old coat. When the performance had taken this con- 
 clusion Sir Craig's invited guests turned upon him and gave voice to ex- 
 pressions which were anything but grateful for his invitation. Har- 
 mony was restored after Sir Craig had agreed to buy a glass of pink 
 lemonade for each Sir Knight. 
 
 As a means of forgetfulness, someone suggested billiards and the 
 sign of a billiard-room was sighted down a side street. It was a sub- 
 
304 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 way affair, located in the cellar of a grocery store. As soon as the 
 proprietor saw business coming in the front door he turned on both gas 
 lights. Little time was consumed in selecting cues, as but three in 
 the place had tips on them. Only one of these did not have a double 
 warp in it, so it was decided to pass it from player to player. Fortun- 
 ately it was a short cue, for had it been longer the curve in it would 
 have brought both ends together. 
 
 The table might have been level enough if the brick, which was 
 holding up one wobbling leg, had not been so thick as to make one 
 corner of the table higher than the others. Sir Pears was appointed 
 official scorer, and really had the easiest task. The court plaster, which 
 had been used in patching the cloth, interfered somewhat with the 
 destination of the balls, which in color and shape resembled Easter 
 eggs. If the balls had been larger they might not have stuck under 
 the cushions each time they struck one. As a matter of fact, it was 
 disrespectful to garb the cushions in green. They should have worn 
 deep mourning, for every cushion had long since been "dead." How- 
 ever, some of the most unexpected shots were executed. Sir Oscar 
 tried an anchor shot and executed a brilliant carom on both gas lights. 
 Sir Staiger showed to best advantage when he shot uphill on the table, 
 while Sir Biddle broke one of the rules with the cue ball (this rule 
 was painted on a glass globe.) About twenty minutes after the game 
 started, the proprietor brought the announcement that the "hour is up." 
 No one complained. The score showed that Sir Oscar had nearly 
 made a point. 
 
 Meanwhile, some members of our party visited the stock exchange 
 and became deeply interested in the open debate, which was going on 
 between a hundred or more of the brokers. Sir Reel sauntered over 
 to watch the maneuvers of a crowd of excited men, when some stranger 
 asked him if he was looking for a "buy." Sir Reel inquired if the 
 election returns were coming in and was informed that it was merely 
 a discussion in the "wheat pit." He told the stranger he wouldn't mind 
 taking home some wheat as a souvenir but did not want any with 
 pits. At this point the stranger seemed to have forgotten something, 
 and walked off with a pained look. 
 
 Approaching a group gathered about a sign reading "Corn," Sir 
 Reel entered into conversation with a sympathetic looking individual 
 who declared he had been "cornered." Sir Reel wanted to know how 
 corn cornered, and asked his new acquaintance where he could get a 
 bag or two of pop-corn as a souvenir. The stranger announced that 
 he could let him have 100,000 bushels "of July" if he could get a friend 
 on the exchange to make the deal. "I've taken all my July in dates," 
 answered Sir Reel, "but if you can let me have about a dozen ears of 
 good, tender corn, I think we could strike a deal on a cash basis." 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 305 
 
 This seemed to discourage the stranger from any further effort towards 
 trading, and he also walked away. Sir Reel, discouraged because of 
 the uncivil treatment received, left the exchange. 
 
 Following dinner, we slowly wended our way to the station. Here 
 a memorable demonstration took place. Commanderies were coming 
 and going, and scene's of joviality and good cheer prevailed. Allen- 
 town Commandery led in the singing of that melodious and impressive 
 air : "Why in the world don't you work." We immediately "caught on," 
 and have been singing it ever since. A parting handshake all around, 
 a rapid-fire exchange of good-byes, and we boarded our "Special" for 
 St. Louis and the World's Fair, over the Wabash railroad. 
 
 Shortly after leaving Kansas City it became evident that a council 
 of war was in progress in the smoker of the "stag" coach. Some of the 
 diplomats were seen moving in and out, and admission was restricted 
 to but a few. Later developments proved that a conference was being 
 held, and presentation speeches were being prepared in connection with 
 gifts of appreciation, which were to be bestowed upon the members 
 of the committee who had the transcontinental tour in charge. 
 
 Sirs William G. Lee, Edward Burry and William A. Aeberli, who 
 had been appointed to make the presentation speeches, were active with 
 pencil and paper. Finally, when they began to read their compositions 
 to one another, it developed that each had selected the same senti- 
 ments upon which to base their outbursts of eloquence. An ineffectual 
 effort was made to trade off a sentiment or two, in order that there 
 might be little duplication, but finally, when a deadlock was certain, all 
 the prepared speeches were destroyed, and extemporaneous efforts were 
 decided upon. Then they drew lots to see who should speak first, be- 
 cause the first man would, of course, have all the advantage, and leave 
 the other speakers to repeat. 
 
 The "stag" coach was then cleared for action. The berths, which 
 had been lowered for the night, were ordered "put up" and everyone 
 was invited into the "stag" coach. Sirs Harry W. Lowrie, chairman; 
 Oscar Schulze and Herman Flechsig, were the members of the com- 
 mittee who had the tour in charge and to whom we sought to show our 
 appreciation. 
 
 The speech makers, on behalf of the party, then bestowed upon 
 each of the committeemen a magnificent token, the intrinsic value of 
 which, however, did not measure up to the smallest conceivable fraction 
 of our sincere appreciation of their arduous labors and thoughtfulness 
 for the welfare of the party. In a few well-chosen words these gifts 
 were presented, and were accepted with profuse thanks by the surprised 
 recipients, Sir Oscar Schulze rising to eloquent heights in his speech 
 of acceptance. 
 (20) 
 
306 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 It can be said in all truth, that a souvenir of appreciation was never 
 more worthily bestowed. From the time the train left Allegheny until 
 it returned several weeks later, this committee was engaged continually 
 in making provision for the comfort and welfare of every member of 
 the large party. Commissary supplies, hotel arrangements and car- 
 riages, when necessary, transfer of baggage, distribution of mail, yea, 
 hundreds of details were left safely in their hands. Sirs Lowrie, 
 Schulze and Flechsig were in every way worthy and qualified to lead 
 a body bearing the good name of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35. 
 
 Following the presentations, a march was made upon the com- 
 missary car where festivities were begun that lasted until night had 
 faded into the small hours of morning. The towering flag of the Ad- 
 ministration Building of the St. Louis Fair was seen at the break of 
 morn when the Sir Knights bid each other "good night." 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 UR "Special" came to a stop in St. Louis at the very gateway 
 to the Fair grounds, arriving at the World's Fair terminal of 
 the Wabash system. This terminal was made possible because 
 the Wabash tracks pierce Forest Park, which was not developed 
 until after the railroad had secured its right of way. 
 
 As our train entered the terminal we were given a "gentle reminder" 
 that the magnificent palatial train of Pittsburgh Commandery, No. I 
 was also riding the rails. They were backing into the station behind 
 us, and struck our "Special" with a bump that upset a lo-gallon can 
 of coffee in the commissary car, almost causing Johnston to float. How 
 about it Fraters? Wouldn't it jar you to be bumped by a 14-car train? 
 If you were racing to the Fair against us, it was unfair to try to pass 
 us on the same track. 
 
 Arriving at St. Louis it was decided to make a change In the itiner- 
 ary, which had previously been carried out to the letter. The original 
 schedule provided for our "Special" to leave St. Louis that night, but 
 through special concessions from the railroads, we were given per- 
 mission to side-track our train at the Wabash terminal. Here it re- 
 mained for four days or until Saturday night, September 24. 
 
 One of the most pleasing incidents of our tour occurred as we stepped 
 from the train. There stood a delegation of members from our Com- 
 mandery who had not seen us for weeks, ready to give us the hand of 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 307 
 
 true welcome. We were greeted by Sir William Sanders Brown with 
 that dear, congenial and ever-present smile ; Sir F. G. Freeman, also 
 beaming with sunshine, hands in the air, about to explode with delight 
 in an effort, as usual, to say a thousand things in a single sentence ; Sir 
 W. H. Oliver, with that merry twinkle in his eye, as big and whole- 
 souled as he is, and every inch a gentleman. Sir John A. Shoemaker, 
 that jovial, genial, affable and ever happy comrade, was also among 
 those to greet us, as were many others who joined in the merry and 
 unexpected welcome. All worthy citizens, honorable gentlemen, cherished 
 by all that know them, and but a few of the shining lights of our 
 bright constellation that wandered from their sphere and dropped in 
 to greet us bless your hearts thank you! 
 
 Then for the big show: Call it the Louisiana Purchase Expo- 
 sition, the Universal Exposition, the St. Louis Exposition or the World's 
 Fair it was known by all these names but what's in a name, a fair 
 with another name is just as fair. 
 
 It is not the writer's intention to attempt a description of what we 
 saw, or to set forth the numerous incidents that transpired while in 
 St. Louis. Volumes would be required to chronicle everything even 
 if restricted to things of interest. Only a brief synopsis of the "Big 
 Show" will be attempted. 
 
 The exposition was well defined as "an encyclopedia of society" 
 for it represented a complete classification of society's words and works, 
 compact and indexed, and available for ready reference. Again, it was 
 a parliament and federation of mankind, welded without political sub- 
 tleties, but created by civilization's own advancement in the growing 
 appreciation of the brotherhood of man. The Republics of the New 
 World, the monarchies of the Far East, the sovereignties of sturdy Eu- 
 rope, the barbarous tribes of Africa, the happy children of Australia 
 all joined and met in fraternal fellowship to show the world the products 
 of their brain and brawn. Each nation had something, at least, to 
 reveal to the other. None shielded itself under the mantle of self- 
 conceit to dream of sublime superiority. 
 
 It was meet that the United States, in whose veins flows the blood 
 of all nations, should be the meeting ground for the wanderers from 
 distant shores. It is here that the Irishman has found Home Rule; 
 that the Frenchman has secured his ideal of liberty; that the English- 
 man has found a greater England; that the Teuton has sought repose 
 in a new fatherland. Since the earliest Biblical times when the Lord 
 drifted the peoples of the earth apart by putting strange language in 
 their lips, have they traversed the earth, only to be called together 
 again in this happy land under the sacred flag that is an emblem of 
 life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. 
 
 As one studied the system employed in the arrangement of ex- 
 
308 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 hibits from every clime, and learned of the established classification, its 
 appropriateness left a marked impression. The exposition was divided 
 into 16 departments, 144 groups and 807 classes. The materialization 
 presented a sequential synopsis of man's development from age to age, 
 with a final presentation of his achievements in the present day. 
 
 At the head of the classification was placed Education through 
 which man enters social life. Second, came Art showing the con- 
 dition of his culture and development. Liberal Arts and Applied 
 Sciences were placed third, to indicate the result of education and cul- 
 ture, illustrating his tastes and demonstrating his inventive genius. 
 
 The raw material departments Agriculture, Horticulture, Mining 
 and Forestry tended to show how man conserves the forces of nature 
 to his own use. The department of Manufactures showed what he ac- 
 complished with the raw material; the department of Machinery ex- 
 hibited the tools employed, while the department of Transportation 
 showed how he overcame distances and secured success in all parts of 
 the world. The department of Electricity indicated the forces he dis- 
 covered and utilized to convey power and intelligence, and so on through 
 the various departments until Anthropology was reached, where man 
 studies man, and the department of Physical Culture in which man, 
 his intelligence having reached a superior point is able to treat himself, 
 realizing that intellectual and moral constitutions require a sound physi- 
 cal body to hold them properly. Education was the keynote and corner- 
 stone of the exposition. 
 
 But who can describe the wonderful exhibits from all lands which 
 were made under these classifications? It would be a task that would 
 recognize no master. For pleasure, instruction and entertainment, one 
 sauntered down the famous Pike, where a conglomeration of villages 
 from all corners of the earth were transplanted along an avenue one 
 mile long, and blended into a medley of national and international amuse- 
 ments. The tongues of countless nations and sects rippled forth from 
 the general welcome and invitation. The Pike rang with gaiety, life 
 and beauty. Its attractions were classified as geographical, historical, 
 scientific and illusory, or scenic. To travel over this mile of quaint 
 settlements was like making a tour of the world stopping only at 
 the most unusual and unconventional localities. 
 
 Forest Park, where the exhibition was held, embraced 1,250 acres, 
 more than twice as many as Jackson Park, of Chicago Fair fame. 
 There were 1,500 separate buildings erected, 50 foreign countries and 
 45 states and territories being represented. The cost of the exhibition 
 exceeded $50,000,000. Each type of the earth's inhabitants was repre- 
 sented in native costume, and in most cases found shelter in structures 
 of native architecture. 
 
 The main group of buildings, which were in the northeastern 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 309 
 
 portion of the grounds, included 12 great structures in such symmetrical 
 arrangement as to represent an open fan the avenues corresponding 
 to the ribs in the fan. Eight of these palaces were upon a level 60 feet 
 below the others, offering a beautiful picture as the visitor strolled the 
 center avenue. 
 
 In the distance, a half-mile away, rose the beautiful Hall of Festi- 
 vals, the central jewel of the beautiful architectural coronet. The sides 
 of the coronet stretched in graceful curves from Festival Hall, re- 
 sembling a colonade, except that square pylons alternated with pairs 
 of columns forming 14 sections, in front of which, upon the terrace, 
 were 14 great sculptured figures representing in allegory, the 14 states 
 and territories carved from the Louisiana Purchase. 
 
 Three great cascades, the largest artificial creations made up to 
 that time, poured down the slope from the center and the two sides, the 
 slopes being gardens, richly adorned with flowers, shrubs and archi- 
 tectural and sculptural devices. 
 
 Festival Hall covered two acres, and from it and its terraces and 
 pavilions, a commanding view of the principal buildings could be ob- 
 tained. On the same plateau, beyond Festival Hall, were the three 
 great palaces of Art. These buildings contained 136 galleries, the 
 central building, a permanent structure, being the international hall of 
 sculpture. 
 
 The Government building stood apart from the main group upon 
 another plateau, east of the Art buildings. It covered an immense area, 
 being twice the length of the great Treasury Building in Washington. 
 The eye of the visitor was everywhere charmed by the magnifictent 
 landscape effects. Falls roared, triumphant cascades sang, and foun- 
 tains spouted in this fairyland. 
 
 The exhibits were characterized by life, color, motion and variety, 
 and articles were exhibited, not alone as they are, but in juxtaposition 
 with illustrations of their evolution. Processes of manufacture were 
 also vividly portrayed, and the keynote of the exposition education 
 was ever foremost. 
 
 At night, when electricity be jeweled the scene, the effect was most 
 bewildering. In the creation of the picture every builder's art had a 
 share. The sculptor, the architect, the landscape gardener, the elec- 
 trician who controlled a million bulbs all played prominent parts in 
 the presentation of the wonderful night scene. The mechanical and 
 electrical bureau worked out a scheme of illumination that produced 
 results never before realized in spectacular magnificence. While the 
 buildings were outlined in fire for night view by means of the festive 
 shimmer of countless filaments, the picture was accentuated by the 
 piercing rays of arc lamps at salient points upon all the principal 
 structures. 
 
310 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 Every moment spent in St. Louis was judiciously applied. Every 
 night took us to bed thoroughly tired, and it was rarely that the sun 
 rose before us. The magnificent and well-equipped Pennsylvania State 
 building had a special fascination for us, inasmuch that it represented 
 home, and seemed more like it than any other building on the grounds. 
 
 It would have required weeks, yea months, in that monstrous en- 
 closure to get an intelligent idea of the collection of assembled world's 
 people, their products, apparel, art, architecture, modes, customs, music, 
 agriculture and manufacture. The moving masses of people were in 
 themselves interesting exhibits coming as they did from all quarters 
 of the globe. The four days spent at the Fair found no room for 
 idleness, and as the final hours reached their termination we turned 
 towards "home" (the "Special" on the siding) with the satisfaction 
 that we had seen all that human eye could absorb in so brief a time. 
 
 Our departure from St. Louis on the evening of Saturday, Sep- 
 tember 24, was not without reluctance, for some dear members of our 
 "big happy family" bade us farewell, because ot their plans to spend 
 more time at the Fair. However, with a hurried exchange of best 
 wishes with those who were to stay behind, and with cheers, laughter 
 and even a tear or two, we left St. Louis and the Fair, with our faces 
 turned homeward on the last stretch of our pilgrimage. But there were 
 some whom we had missed during the leave-taking Sir Oscar Schultz, 
 family and party. 
 
 We learned later, that he had rushed to the Wabash terminal after 
 we had departed. Knowing that we were compelled to pass through 
 the Union Station (five or six miles distant) before leaving the city, 
 Sir Oscar hurriedly engaged an automobile, offered the chauffeur special 
 inducement to reach the Union Station as quickly as possible. Every 
 speed ordinance was broken as the automobile made its wild dash for 
 the station. But, alas, it was to no avail. The last car on our train 
 was rapidly passing out of sight when the chauffeur brought his passen- 
 gers up to the station. The race had been run and the defeat had been 
 an honorable one. Sadly disappointed, Sir Oscar wired a word of fare- 
 well and Godspeed to his comrades aboard the train, and told of his 
 inability to catch up with the "Special." 
 
 Soon after leaving St. Louis the commissary car was pressed into 
 service and here, with light and joyous hearts, we sang far into the 
 night. The singing began and continued for a time, in rhythm, to the 
 puff, puff, puff of the engine, which caused us to swell our voices to 
 a mighty anthem of joy, as voice after voice broke forth in mighty 
 chorus, realizing that with each revolution of the ponderous driving- 
 wheels of the engine we were nearing the dear ones who were anxiously 
 awaiting the pilgrims' return. Every member of the party was happy, 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 311 
 
 all were well, and notwithstanding the unalloyed enjoyment of the tour, 
 all were anxious to again be under the benignant skies of our own dear 
 city. 
 
 There was a cheering influence in the air and in our hearts that 
 night. Rocked by the measured stroke of the engine driving wheels 
 and lulled by the systematic puff, puff, puff, we soon passed tranquilly 
 out of all consciousness of the pleasant experiences of the day. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 E were rapidly approaching the end. Human nature was begin- 
 ning to assert itself as the tension and excitement incident to 
 such an undertaking as the pilgrimage began to diminish. With 
 no further worries attending the accomplishment of the many 
 details of the tour, the pilgrims relaxed. So tired were they, that even 
 the "Alarm Clock" failed to operate successfully. Everyone appeared 
 late for breakfast, and sat long at dinner indulging at length in gossip, 
 reviewing the pilgrimage. 
 
 Pleasant experiences of the past six weeks were dwelt upon for 
 even thus early did some of the episodes of the trip begin to rise in 
 memory and appeal to us in their humorous light. When traveling, 
 the daily incidents often become routine and uninteresting, but when 
 placed six weeks and several thousand miles behind, the mind care- 
 fully sorts out the worthy from the unworthy and the experiences which 
 are truly valued are magnified in the mind's eye to their full worth 
 while others vanish from memory. 
 
 It was a merry gathering that occupied the four coaches. Laughter 
 and chatter echoed and re-echoed from car to car. Back and forth, from 
 coach to coach, members of the party visited one another to give some 
 farewell instruction or offer a suggestion looking to the comfort of 
 one another. The long tour had brought the pilgrims together in close 
 companionship and welded inseparable friendships. The four coaches 
 had become our dwelling on wheels, and we all abode together in har- 
 mony, peace and happiness. It was not only like a big gathering of 
 friends in the drawing room of some host who was on equally good 
 terms with all, and who made everyone feel that there was no restraint 
 or conventionality to be reckoned with; but in truth it was one "Big 
 Happy Family." 
 
 While merriment was at its height, the startling discovery was 
 made that Sir D. B. Watson was missing. The news spread rapidly and 
 
312 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 excitement ran high. Surely, he must be somewhere on board, for he 
 had been seen on the train after leaving St. Louis. Could he have 
 fallen off in passing from coach to coach? This was the question asked 
 by many, although the train was vestibuled throughout. 
 
 An exploring party was formed and a systematic search of the 
 train was begun, but many feared the worst. For a time no clue could 
 be found leading to a solution of the mysterious disappearance. Hope 
 had been abandoned by many as the party entered the fourth car. 
 After carefully scrutinizing this coach the "man-hunters" were startled, 
 when, upon reaching the very end of the coach they saw another coach 
 trailing in the rear. At first they thought it a phantom but investi- 
 gation proved it to be a substantial and truly material car. Entering 
 it, they found as its sole occupant, our dear missing "Davie," traveling 
 in state, in a private car. Explanations were in order and it was learned 
 that by some mistake or for some unknown intent, the railroad company 
 had added another coach to our "Special" in St. Louis, and Sir David, 
 finding the car attached in the rear, occupied it in solitude to "day- 
 dream" over his pleasant experiences of the past few weeks. 
 
 It did not require much encouragement to lead the stray sheep 
 back into the fold, and the fifth coach was left uninhabited to follow 
 in the wake of the quartet of cars to which we had ever been loyal, 
 and which were ever ready to receive and comfort us. Each car had its 
 function as a stage upon which we enacted our life on the rail. The 
 first, or commissary car, was the circus ring in which conventionalities 
 were somersaulted, fixed rules became acrobatic, and the jesters and 
 performers of all kinds were given free rein, much to the delight and 
 approbation of the onlookers. 
 
 The second, or "stag" coach, was the burlesque stage where life 
 was made a pleasant comedy and serious thought was not permitted 
 to prevail. It was here that good nature found no room for the burdens 
 of life, and where pleasure ran riot. 
 
 The third coach was justly termed the "haven of opera." It was 
 here that the musical voices of the ladies lent an ever present cheer, and 
 their very presence sung a solace into our hearts that was comforting 
 and inspiring. 
 
 The fourth coach, occupied chiefly by the older members of the 
 party, was the stage of the "legitimate performers." It was here that 
 the scene-shifting of nature found its fullest appreciation. Seasoned by 
 the experiences of years, the audience was competent to enter into the 
 full enjoyment of the comedies and was fully capable of appreciating 
 the lessons offered by the more sedate experiences of the pilgrimage. 
 It was in this coach that the "wheat" was more carefully separated 
 from the "chaff," but each was given the fullest consideration, and re- 
 ceived the approval it deserved. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 313 
 
 Onward rushed the train, apparently as anxious to reach its desti- 
 nation as were its occupants. The sun was going down, a brilliant disc 
 in crimson mists, radiating the sky with its dying beams like an aurora 
 borealis, and diffusing a beautiful glow over the landscape. 
 
 We were going home. Those who do not believe that this knowl- 
 edge makes a deep impression on the traveler, have never been far 
 from the family fireside; have never looked ahead through the mists 
 and lowering gray skies as we did, for the first sight of dear home. 
 Our hearts throbbed with expectancy and our eyes were dim with glad 
 moisture as we watched and watched with straining orbs and finally 
 stood up and shouted in a spontaneous burst of gladness, when at last 
 we crossed the state line, and were again in our dear, cherished, im- 
 comparable Pennsylvania. 
 
 Smiles, laughter, shouts of delight and the hum of conversation 
 were much in evidence after the border line of the state had been crossed. 
 Expressions of impatience to know how the dear ones were at home 
 were general. Every thought turned inquiringly to ask who would be 
 waiting at the station to offer greetings of welcome. Would mother be 
 able to come down? Surely father would be there; while there were 
 those who were wishing, with an inexpressible yearning, that someone 
 else might think enough of them to "run down" to the station and lend 
 cheer to the home-coming. 
 
 From the car windows and the side door of the commissary car 
 beamed happy faces, with radiance of expression that challenged the 
 brightness of "Old Sol" himself. Lips pouted at the seeming endless 
 delay, which was magnified as thoughts focused themselves on the sight 
 of those waiting to clasp the pilgrims in welcoming embrace. 
 
 Before Pittsburgh was reached and as the train was nearing the dear 
 old town, goodbyes were exchanged over and over again, for everyone 
 realized that once they reached Pittsburgh there would be so many they 
 had not seen for six weeks, that their companions might become lost 
 without a parting farewell. So everyone made doubly sure by repeat- 
 ing the aurevoirs for 50 miles into Pittsburgh. 
 
 Slowly but surely the yawning mouth of the Union Station train 
 sheds drew nearer and nearer, until finally, with triumphant and re- 
 sounding puffs the monster engine entered its portals. Before the train 
 came to a stop the pilgrims crowded upon the platforms of the coaches, 
 shouting, laughing and almost weeping for very joy a rhapsody of 
 the homing instinct which is common to all kind and as soon as the 
 porters opened the doors there was an outburst of : "Hello there John ;" 
 "Well, well, well, if there isn't Frank ;" "how in the world have you been 
 George;" "My, but you are looking fine;" "where is Oscar?" and scores 
 of other expressions of welcome and delight were offered, almost in 
 unison. 
 
314 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 The trainmen were jostled by the surging crowd of friends that 
 surrounded and took possession of the train, and the human freight it 
 contained. In a moment there was a hubhub on the platform which 
 could be heard a square away. Glad cries of welcome; loud resounding 
 smacks of father, mother, brother or someone who hopes to become a 
 relative some day ; long and endearing hugs and kisses in showers from 
 a contingent of the gentler sex; and then such a babble from hundreds 
 of tongues, as has seldom astonished the staid and gloomy station. 
 
 Then came the sudden announcement that the "Special" would be 
 continued to Allegheny an unexpected provision. Instantly there was 
 a rush to re-board the train and every seat and all available standing 
 room, both within the cars and on the platforms became occupied by the 
 tourists and those who had welcomed them. 
 
 When Allegheny was reached we were literally carried away by 
 delegations of the good, old home folks, Sir Knights and friends. And, 
 so, in chatter, happiness, gladness and merriment the pilgrims were hur- 
 ried home, where, doubtless, they sat until time was forgotten, and told 
 until early dawn, some word picture or anecdote of the wonderful trip. 
 Willing ears listened eagerly as the tourists related adventures which 
 befell them upon a pilgrimage of interesting experiences and an exhaust- 
 less store of sublime and lovely memories. 
 
 And so the dear, sweet faces melted away like the fresh and deli- 
 cate snow flakes under the warm rays of the noon sun, with nature's best 
 sentiment home the one word which is the beginning and the end. 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 315 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 EFORE bringing this work to a conclusion, hastily as it may have 
 been prepared, let us glance back over our party, the pilgrimage, 
 and its success, and the admirable arrangements which were pro- 
 vided during our tour. 
 
 It is primarily important to say that any and all mention made in 
 these pages of any member or members of the party, has been in the very 
 kindliest spirit and humor, without a single exception. The writer holds 
 no thought other than kindness and good feeling, and his intention has 
 been far removed from any motive to jeer or wound; his every effort has 
 been in the fullest intent of loving and kindly feeling. 
 
 Though the writer was with the party throughout the entire pilgrim- 
 age, it will be noted that he has evaded the personal pronoun throughout 
 this account, for, as announced, he deemed it advisable to deviate from the 
 usual custom of authors in "singing a song of himself." The pilgrimage 
 was a "long engagement" and a "continuous performance," and every 
 member of the cast should receive due credit and applause for the part 
 played. It may be truthfully stated that there might have been incidents 
 of unusual interest during that long tour, which escaped the eye of the 
 writer, and if such oversight has wrought to the disadvantage of any, due 
 and humble apology is hereby made. 
 
 If the writer has been guilty (in some instances) of exaggerating 
 some of the incidents of the tour, it has been for the same reason that 
 artificial cultivation often aids nature in rearing flowers and vegetation to 
 their fullest and ripest bloom, and for the same reason that fruits attain 
 larger size and more appetizing appearance under nursed conditions 
 that they may be more fully appreciated. Should any members of the 
 party feel disposed to deny their guilt or participation in any of the inci- 
 dents with which they are associated in this work, the writer stands ready 
 to accept any such denial and will himself furnish an alibi by admitting 
 his own guilt of anything of which the pilgrims might plead innocence. 
 
 As the writer sat in his home, night after night, far into that vast and 
 mysterious void which men call sleep, preparing this work, scenes of 
 the tour arose before him and brought back vivid memories. As he 
 looked about him and again saw those same bright, wholesome, congenial 
 
316 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 faces, how he longed to give proper expression to those feelings and 
 to depict the pleasing scenes that arose before him. There was a great 
 and impressive something that occupied his mind and stirred his very, 
 soul. His mind seemed to wander over that vast realm of space which 
 the pilgrims had traversed, presenting a symposium of a thousand most 
 happy incidents, scenes and events. He felt that he was on the tour 
 again. He saw the prairie land blend into the picturesqueness of Yellow- 
 stone Park and emerge into the sea of desert waste. The verdant valley 
 of the Sacramento then carried the writer into the gala conclave city of 
 San Francisco, where the carnival of joy and festivity reigned supreme. 
 He heard the ocean's roar and the beating of the waves upon Seal Rocks, 
 but above it all higher, louder and clearer than Nature's rhapsody, rose 
 a babel of voices, which in one accord, to one another, beckoned: "Pil- 
 grim, I greet thee." He felt, once more, the touch of the warm hand- 
 shake of fraternal and brotherly hospitality, and while basking cheer- 
 fully in this delightful vision, the fairy of dreamland beckoned him 
 come how reluctantly he followed and escorting him through rare and 
 beautiful gardens to enjoy, for a moment, the sun-kissed breezes of Del 
 Monte, ushered him into the City of Los Angeles to again mingle with 
 the dear fraters who dwell therein. But what a brief visit it was for 
 just as the sea of friendly faces smiled forth their ever-ready welcome, 
 the scene blended into a luxuriant valley of fruits and flowers, only to 
 emerge again into the dreariness of the vast arid desert. But out of this 
 wearisome vista, as if touched by some magic wand, sprang forth the 
 majestic, gorgeous and inspiring spectacle of the Grand Canyon of 
 Arizona, attired in its most enchanting mantle, under the light of the 
 setting sun ; and as night seemed to come, the writer saw the canyon 
 fade into the distance heard a chatter of foreign tongues as the 
 imaginary train winged past the city of St. Louis, and as the vision 
 of scores of dear ones offering a "Welcome home" arose in vivid real- 
 ity, he reached forward to grasp the extended hand of welcome only 
 to find himself alone. 
 
 That the members of our party, both young and old, were as con- 
 genial and desirable companions as could be chosen, was so clearly dem- 
 onstrated as to be beyond the slightest doubt and what delightful and 
 wholesome companions they are at home ! What a privilege and pleasure 
 it would be to have them on another tour, considering the personification 
 of good cheer and fellowship that prevailed throughout the California pil- 
 grimage. So it behooves the writer to declare with all the sincerity and 
 emphasis at his command, nothing would afford him more delight than to 
 be with them again, and once more enter into the full enjoyment of 
 another such pilgrimage. 
 
 It would be well if such an excursion were made every year, and 
 the system regularly inaugurated. Travel broadens the mind and encour- 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 317 
 
 ages wholesome, charitable views of men and things. How many people 
 die annually who have never been 20 miles from their own homestead. 
 What do they know of the world? Nothing, absolutely nothing, except 
 what they read in history or learn by hearsay. It is the duty of all to 
 rise from their slothfulness, shake off any nightmare, go forth and view 
 the Almighty's great creation, and they will bless the day that they have 
 taken steps to larger and more comprehensive ideas. 
 
 And there is no pleasanter mode of traveling than the one by which 
 we made our pilgrimage. There was no changing of trains and com- 
 panions almost constantly. Unlike ordinary travelers, we were not com- 
 pelled to forsake comrades whose diverging routes cause a separation 
 soon after an acquaintanceship and companionship is formed. Nor 
 were we compelled to break the attachment one always has for a 
 particular train and its crew. The unpleasant duties of directing 
 baggage from point to point and from train to train were lost to our 
 party. We packed our trunks but thrice in our tour of six weeks 
 when we left home, when we entered Yellowstone Park and when 
 we emerged from the park. We estimated how long we would be 
 gone and figured, with mathematical nicety, the amount of clothing 
 we should need. 
 
 It never became necessary for us to seek companionship, for our 
 "happy family" was a large and harmonious one. Often we sympathized 
 with those who were compelled to travel alone and who yearned for the 
 companionship of strangers. In desert or fertile valley, on the plains or on 
 the prairie, in the city or in the open country, the cheerful "Allegheny 
 Special" was ever ready to greet us with all the hospitality of a home, 
 and offered an invitation of peace, comfort and satisfaction that never 
 failed to appeal to us and which we were always eager to enjoy. 
 
 Only the most enthusiastic words of satisfaction and appreciation 
 came from the tourists when commenting upon the pilgrimage. Not an 
 incident marred it; not a jangle or discordant note was heard in the tune 
 of good fellowship. It was indeed a "big, happy family," with the fullest 
 confidence in all its members, all of them united in the common endeavor 
 to extract from their journey all the pleasure, all the happiness and all 
 the information and instruction possible. This was demonstrated not 
 only by word of mouth, but by expression of faces with the soul and 
 mind satisfaction of an ambition fulfilled, a goal reached. 
 
 Too much appreciation cannot be expressed of the admirable arrange- 
 ments under which we traveled and which relieved the minds of the tour- 
 ists of all the many details ordinarily incident to traveling. The slightest 
 fault could not be found with the manner in which our tour was conducted. 
 Its program was faithfully carried out yes, and more. Those who so 
 loyally and royally served us as our committee Sirs Harry W. Lowrie, 
 Oscar Schulze and Herman Flechsig are so well known that no words 
 
318 A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 
 
 can make them better acquainted. With hearts full of sympathy and 
 good will, they were ever ready to make life pleasant for the pilgrims 
 under their care. In them was the authority, and as a committee 
 the responsibility justly placed. To them we are largely indebted for 
 the complete and successful carrying out of the joyous pilgrimage. 
 
 The frequent mention of the gentlemen portion of the roster and the 
 apparent oversight of the ladies might bring forth a charge of ungal- 
 lantry, but the best cards are always played last. Too much tribute can- 
 not be paid the nineteen ladies who accompanied us, and whose very pres- 
 ence lent cheerfulness at all times. 
 
 It seems almost incredible, but it is none the less true, that from the 
 time we left Allegheny until we returned, moving as rapidly as we did, 
 up in the morning early, making close connection here and there, not one 
 single moment of detention was caused by the ladies. Never a word of 
 complaint, even as to weariness or fatigue, was expressed by them during 
 that entire tour, but from one and all there came a pleasant, smiling, 
 cheerful "Good morning" with the opening of the day, while at the close 
 came the wish for a "Good night" with equal cheerfulness. To each indi- 
 vidual lady do we attribute much of the pleasure enjoyed by us during the 
 trip. The sunshine of their faces, as well as their deeds, blazed our path- 
 way across the continent and return. And their kindnesses were of the 
 practical kind ever ready with needle, thread and button to do us a 
 much-needed service. With them near, we felt as though we were under 
 the protecting wings of our own dear mothers, while any little headache 
 or trifling ailment brought a corps of nurses that furnished hurried relief. 
 A dozen mothers stood ready to give us parental attention at all times. 
 As we passed through the train, rode the stage coaches through Yellow- 
 stone Park, dined with them at hotel tables or greeted them on the streets 
 of a score of different cities, we were constantly reminded of home 
 expressions wreathed in smiles ever beamed from their countenances. 
 From our hearts we earnestly wish that the very smallest portion of 
 earth's sorrows allotted to poor humanity may be the share of their dear 
 hearts, and that their lives shall always be bright, clear and sparkling as 
 the rivulet which flows from its cool mountain home, and as the dew 
 drop upon the leaf, glistening in the glad morning sun, which shall never 
 dim nor fade away, is the heartfelt wish of their fellow pilgrims. 
 
 So here ends this recital of a memory that will remain long with the 
 writer, and no doubt with every member of the party who participated 
 in the pilgrimage. The grand tour has ended and taken its place among 
 the things that were. Its varied scenes and manifold incidents will ever 
 linger pleasantly in our memories. Always on the wing flying as it 
 were, merely pausing a moment here and there to catch fitful glimpses of 
 the wonders of our country ; we could not hope to receive or retain vivid 
 impressions of it all. Yet our flight has not been in vain for above the 
 
A MERRY CRUSADE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 319 
 
 confusion of vague recollections, certain of its prize pictures lift them- 
 selves to continue perfect in tint and outline after their surroundings 
 have faded away. 
 
 More than a year has flown since our notable pilgrimage has end- 
 ed. The writer has often thought and as he sits here thinking see- 
 ing the same good, sweet friends, he is moved to confess, that day by 
 day, the mass of memories have grown more and more a pleasure. If 
 another call for a like tour were issued, nothing would gratiiy the 
 writer more than to be numbered among the party with the same Sir 
 Knights and companions yes, and the same dear, good-natured sin- 
 ners, of which he cheerfully confesses he was one. 
 
IFn flfoemorfam. 
 
 "In the midst of life we are in death." The evidence of this oft-re- 
 peated truth again becomes apparent with the sad duty of chronicling in 
 these pages, the death of a worthy Sir Knight who was numbered with 
 our party of happy tourists who made the pilgrimage to the Twenty- 
 ninth Triennial Conclave 
 
 SIR PHILIP STEINMILLER, 
 of McKees Rocks, Pa. 
 
 Reaped in his full harvest of kindness and loving attainments, Sir 
 Steinmiller was called to the Asylum above, November I, 1905; having 
 ended his long pilgrimage among his fellowmen. We are all pilgrims 
 moving in the same great procession to that unseen land from which 
 none return. The final voyage to that harbor of everlasting life offers 
 itself as a privilege to the most deserving. It is not appropriate that we 
 go as unwilling captives bound to the chariot wheels of all-conquering 
 death. There is no occasion for us to lift up our voices in wailing and 
 terror when the message comes that calls us away. If we trust in Christ, 
 who giveth victory, our departure will be a triumphal march and the close 
 of life will be a coronation. Who would not wish to have the last stages 
 of earthly journey adorned with the surpassing grace and glory of Chris- 
 tian hope? Who would not choose to pass away in light and joy, as the 
 leaves put on their loveliest hues when about to die ; as the morning star 
 melts into the superior glory of the coming sun ; as the rosy dawn bright- 
 ens into the full day ? Who would not wish, in dying, to go as Sir Stein- 
 miller and others before him have gone, to prepare a place for those 
 who must stay behind, and who will be ever ready to say to us, when we 
 pass into our reward : "Pilgrim, I greet thee." 
 
 (320 ) 
 
Un flfoemorfam* 
 
 In His tillage, God cultivates many flowers, seemingly only for their 
 exquisite beauty and fragrance. Some, when bathed in soft sunshine, 
 burst into blossom, only to be gathered from earthly fields by the Divine 
 Hand, and reposed in crystal vases in the mansions above. January 28, 
 1905, such act of Providence following shortly after the conclusion of our 
 transcontinental tour, took from our midst one of the dear pilgrims of our 
 "Big, Happy Family" 
 
 MISS MAGGIE STEINMILLER, 
 of McKees Rocks, Pa. 
 
 While those who are dear and near to us pass beyond some in the 
 sweet bud ; some in the fallen blossom none are taken too early to make 
 Heaven fairer and sweeter with their immortal bloom. 
 
 By her every endeavor to administer to all by kind word or sisterly 
 act, Miss Steinmiller had endeared herself into the warm recesses of 
 every heart not only among those who shared the pilgrimage, but 
 among all who had the good fortune to know her. Her ever-cheerful 
 "Good morning" and kindly "Good night" on every day of the tour of six 
 weeks, were pronounced with the true ring of sincerity, while her willing- 
 ness at all times to lend her aid to benefit one or all, helped make our 
 pathway smooth and pleasant. 
 
 She now speaks in the ear of memory and affection. Friends we have 
 loved pass from sight but they live in memory and in our hearts, while 
 their voices come back, richer and more impressive than we appreciated 
 when seeing their moving lips. 
 
 She passed away, gave little warning ; 
 
 A last "Good Night ;" and in some brighter clime 
 
 Awaits to bid us, "Good Morning." 
 
 (321)