n
 
 fw^>. 
 
 
 
 Chardon Wijimaim i
 
 
 /S'^^ 
 
 A. M. MACKAY 
 
 ^ioiwtr ^issioitarg of iljt Cljurtl^ ^issioitarg ^ocufg lo tlganba 
 
 BY HIS SISTER 
 
 IV/T// ETCHED PORTRAIT DY H. MANESSE 
 
 TWELFTH THOUSAND 
 
 ^oitbon 
 
 HODDER AND STOUGHTON 
 
 27, PATERNOSTER ROW
 
 THE LIFE OF MAC KAY FOR BOYS. 
 
 Sixth Thousand. Handsomely bound in cloth, 8vo, gilt edges, is. 
 
 The Story of the Life 
 
 of Mackay of Uganda 
 
 TOLD FOR BOYS BY HIS SISTER. 
 With Portrait and Illustrations. 
 
 The 'juhole of the viatter in the above is fresh, and is tiotfouiui in this 
 Voluttie. 
 
 " A veritable romance of noble self-sacrifice." — Times. 
 
 " Should be one of the most popular boys' books of the 
 season." — Record. 
 
 " Full of interest from beginning to end." — Daily Chronicle. 
 
 "As full of romance as any tale that ever fascinated boy- 
 hood." — Echo. 
 
 London : 
 HODDER AND STOUGHTON, 27, Paternoster Row, E.G.
 
 To MY DEAR Father, 
 THE REVEREND ALEX. MAC KAY, LL.D., 
 
 WHOSE PAINSTAKING INTEREST 
 
 IN THE 
 
 rRalNING AND EARLY EDUCATION OF HIS CHILDREN 
 
 LAID THE FOUNDATION OF 
 
 THE NOBLE SELF-SACRIFICING LIFE 
 
 OF THE SUBJECT 
 
 OF THIS 
 
 MEMOIR. 
 
 2067332
 
 " It is no sacrifice, as some think, to come here 
 as pioneers of Christianity and of civilization. I 
 would not give my position here for all the world. 
 A powerful race has to be won from darkness to 
 light ; superstition and idolatry have to be .over- 
 thrown ; men have to be taught to love God and 
 love their neighbour, which means the uprooting of 
 institutions that have lasted for centuries ; labour 
 made noble, the slave set free, knowledge imparted, 
 and wisdom implanted ; and, above all, that true 
 wisdom taught which alone can elevate man from a 
 brute to a son of God. Who would not willingly 
 engage in such noble work, and consider it the 
 highest honour on earth to be called to do it ? " 
 Mack AY, Uganda, Nov. igt/i, 1878.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 '' I 'HIS is not a history of the Ugandi 
 -*- Mission, but of one member only of the 
 few hitherto connected with it. When my 
 brother received his appointment from the 
 Committee of the Church Missionary Society, 
 he gave himself up fully to his work, with a 
 determination to devote all his ability and his 
 life to it. 
 
 What his ideas of Missionary work were, 
 especially of a missionary pioneer, and how he 
 laboured to work out those ideas, will appear 
 from his letters. 
 
 It was his wish, in the event of his dying in 
 Africa, that I should write this Memoir ; and 
 however deep my sense of unfitness for the 
 task may be, the love I have for him makes 
 his wish a law which I gladly obey. 
 
 It was my privilege to spend all the early 
 part of my life with him, up to the time of 
 his going to Germany, as also the last six 
 months of his residence there, when he was 
 appointed by the C.M.S. as one of the pioneer 
 expedition to Uganda, and from that time to
 
 V. PREFACE. 
 
 his call upwards, 1 was in constant communi- 
 cation with him. 
 
 I must acknowledge my special obligation to 
 his friend and six years' companion in labour, 
 the Rev. R. P. Ashe, M.A., etc., author of 
 " Two Kings of Uganda," who has testified in 
 this book to the spirit and method of my 
 brother's work during those years of united 
 labour and intimate fellowship. 
 
 I also tender my warmest thanks to Mr. 
 Eugene Stock, Editorial Secretary to the 
 C. M.S., for permission to make use of such 
 portions of the Society's publications as I con- 
 sidered necessary. 
 
 My father has also placed at my disposal 
 his fourteen years' African correspondence, but 
 no attempt has been made to gather letters 
 from his numerous friends. I have, for the 
 most part, contented myself with extracts from 
 the journals and letters in my own possession, 
 else this volume must have been swollen ro 
 twice its present size. 
 
 May it speak to the hearts of all who read it, 
 
 so as to advance the work for which he gave 
 
 his life ! 
 
 J. W. H. 
 
 Thk Manse, Niton, I.W. 
 Sept ember , 1890.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 FAGB 
 
 Boyhood ....i 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 Life in Edinburgh and Berlin 9 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 On the Road 35 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Arrives in Uganda 99 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Heathen Superstitions 143 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 Cruelty of the Heathen i79 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 Saabadu's Account of his Visit to England . . . zoi 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 Thk Tide Ebbs and Flows 212
 
 vUl CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Fiery Trials 253 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 Companions in Toil and Tribulation .... 297 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 Alone 319 
 
 CHAPTER XH. 
 Remedies Suggested 339 
 
 CHAPTER XHI. 
 Driven Out 371 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 Mission to Mohammedans 415 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 Slave Raiding and the Slave Trade .... 431 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 How is Africa to he Evangelized? 443 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 Mackay's Last Message ....... 465
 
 BOYHOOD. 
 
 A. M. JM.
 
 His Early Years Gave a Beautiful Pro.mise 
 
 Of \"igour of Understanding, 
 
 Kindness of Heart, 
 
 and 
 
 Christian Nobleness of Principle: 
 
 His Manhood Arundantly Fulfilled It 
 
 — Dr. Arnold's Inscription to the Memory of G. Eveiyr., Est]
 
 CHAPTER I, 
 
 BOYHOOD. 
 
 N the irttle village of Rhynie, situated in an 
 obscure nook of the agricultural county of Aber- 
 deen, on the 13th of October, 1849, Alexander M. 
 Mackay first saw the light. His father was Free 
 Church minister of the parish, but at this date had 
 not yet entered the Manse, but occupied the house 
 which for many years afterwards was the early home 
 of James Rlacdonell, the distinguished journalist, 
 whose life has recently been so graphically written by 
 the editor of the i5r///j-/^ Weekly. 
 
 About the same time the INIanses of the neighbour- 
 ing parishes of Keig, Insch, and Auchindoir gave 
 to the world respectively Professor Wm. Robertson 
 Smith, Professor Wm. Grey Elmslie, and Dr. Wm. 
 Robertson Nicoll ; while about two years later Avas 
 born, in the secluded Manse of Half Morton, in Dum- 
 friesshire, Dr. John Smith, destined to become the 
 loved friend and companion of Mackay, as medical 
 missionary in the Nyanza Pioneer Expedition. 
 
 One asks, how do these Free Church Manses pro- 
 duce such extraordinary men ? Some attribute it to 
 the stern training in dutv, others to the bracing
 
 BOYHOOD. 
 
 influence of the Calvinistic creed. A celebrated 
 London physician declares it is due to the severity 
 of the northern climate, while another suggests that 
 the oatmeal is especially favourable to intellectual 
 vitality. But whatever truth there may be in these 
 opinions, we are inclined to think that it is mainly 
 due to the Spirit of Christ in the home, to the purity 
 of the parents' lives, to the godly upbringing of 
 their children, and to the intellectual atmosphere to 
 which they are accustomed, consequent largely on 
 the university training and literary tastes and friend- 
 ships of the father, — in a word, plain living, high 
 thinking, and that "godliness which is profitable to 
 all things." 
 
 Mackay's father was himself an ardent student, and 
 a man of marked ability ; and as in the extreme rigour 
 of the long winter (besides his pulpit ministrations) 
 little parochial work could be done, he devoted con- 
 siderable time to the publication of various scientific 
 books ; and being a born teacher of youth, nothing 
 delighted him more than the instruction of his boy, 
 who until the age of fourteen years learned everything 
 he knew from him. We well remember him — 
 
 " With a forehead fair and saintly, 
 Which two Ijhie eyes undershine, 
 Like meek prayers before a shrine " — 
 
 at the age of three years reading the New Tcstamicnt 
 with fluency, while at seven years of age his text- 
 books were Milton's " Paradise Lost," Russell's 
 "History of Modern Europe," Gibbon's "Decline
 
 Ills FATHER'S COMTAMON. 
 
 and Fall of the Roman Empire," and Robertson's 
 " History of the Discovery of America." He was his 
 father's constant companion in his walks, and to this 
 day the villagers recall how they wondered at seeing 
 them so frequently stop to look for something on the 
 road, while the fact was that the father with his stick 
 was demonstrating a proposition of Euclid, tracing 
 out the supposed course of the river Zambesi, illus- 
 trating the elliptical motion of the planets, or, as the 
 case might be, describing some huge calamites he had 
 found in the lowermost strata of the Old Red Sand- 
 stone, hitherto supposed to be unfossiliferous. In this 
 way the boy acquired a vast amount of information 
 on all sorts of subjects ; and as letters were often 
 received at the Manse, and read and talked about in 
 his presence, from such men as Hugh Miller, Sir 
 Roderick I. Murchison, Professor Piazzi Smythc, and 
 A. Keith Johnston, H.M. Geographer for Scotland, 
 his mind seemed to develop rapidly. 
 
 In the autumn of 1S59, prior to the meeting of the 
 British Association in Aberdeen, Sir Roderick Murchi- 
 son and Sir A. Ramsay, of H. M. Geological Survey, 
 being on a tour through Scotland, were guests for a 
 few days at the Manse, and were greatly attractctl by 
 the boy's wonderful skill in map-drawing, and by the 
 dexterity of his fingers in type-setting, and the accu- 
 racy of the proof-sheets which he could turn out from 
 his little printing press. Sir Roderick presented him 
 with a copy of " Small Beginnings, or the Way to 
 Get On," wliich seemed to fire his \-outhful ambition.
 
 BOYHOOD. 
 
 But a change gradually came upon the boy, and from 
 eleven to thirteen years of age, nature seemed to 
 assert itself, and from being formerly engrossed with 
 his studies, he almost discarded books and occupied 
 himself with the Manse garden and glebe, and to 
 attending the pony, etc. He also became greatly 
 interested in machinery, and instead of playing witli 
 his companions, he would on any favourable oppor- 
 tunity walk four miles to the railway station and four 
 back, on the chance of getting a good look at the 
 engine, as the train stopped for a minute or two on 
 its way to Huntly ; while his favourite haunts were 
 the village smithy, gas works, carding mill, and the 
 little shops of the carpenter and saddler, in which 
 places, owing to his attractive manners and the vast 
 store of fun in him, he was extremely popular. To 
 the parents this was a great disappointment, as they 
 had destined him for the ministry ; but as the old 
 German hymn says, " Was Gott thut, das ist wohlge- 
 than ! " and all this was a necessary thread in the 
 texture of preparation for the work which he had yet 
 to do. At the end of two years, however, he volun- 
 tarily returned to books, and began again to devour 
 all kinds of literature, and to make great progress in 
 the classics and mathematics ; but as his father's 
 ministerial duties allowed little leisure to superin- 
 tend his studies, he was sent in 1S64 to the Gram- 
 mar School at Aberdeen. Here he worked well, 
 although his parents were not a little concerned to 
 hear that some friends who were desirous of showing
 
 FIiaST RELIGIOUS IMPRESSION'S. 
 
 him attention on the holidays could seldom induce 
 him to join their young people in little excursions 
 into the country, as he was invariably cither getting 
 initiated in the art of photography in Gordon's photo- 
 graphic saloon, or busily engaged in watching the 
 workmen in one of the large shipbuilding yards to 
 which he had contrived to gain admission. Little did 
 any one think then how the observations he made in 
 that yard, Saturday after Saturday, would one day 
 help to further the Master's Kingdom on the shores 
 of the Victoria Nyanza ! 
 
 In the early summer of 1865, the boy sustained a 
 great loss in the death of his dear mother ; and as 
 "knowledge by suffering entercth," he felt then for 
 the first time the influences of Divine love warming 
 his heart. In connection with this event, a godly 
 relative, who proved herself a ministering angel to the 
 stricken family, writes : " Twenty-five years have 
 come and gone, and much has transpired in my life 
 since then ; but I shall never forget the mother's 
 earnest prayers for her boy — more than for any of the 
 rest of the family. He was the only one absent from 
 home at the time, and she seemed to fear that his 
 abilities and attractive manners would become a 
 snare to him. As she felt death approaching, she 
 charged me to give him her Bagster's Bible (her 
 husband's wedding gift), and to write on it certain 
 portions to be especially studied. When he came to 
 the funeral, I gave him the Bible and her dying 
 message — to ' search the Scriptures,' not to read 
 
 \
 
 BOYHOOD. 
 
 only, but to scarcJi} and then he would mgct her again 
 in glory ! I had several opportunities of bringin;?^ 
 before him his mother's anxiety about his salvation ; 
 but although evidently much impressed he said little, 
 and as he returned to Aberdeen to school I never 
 saw him again. But some twelve years afterwards, in 
 a letter I had from him while I was in New Zealand, 
 he remarks, 'You have more to do with my coming 
 out to East Africa than you know of.' " From this 
 time forward the Bible becam.e his greatest treasure; 
 and as he made it his counsellor, and gained skill in 
 the study and use of it, there came to him, and 
 gradually grew upon him, a sense of wonder and 
 admiration at its perfect fitness for his necessities. 
 
 ' '•' Many thanks for the copy of the Revised Version of the 
 New Testament. It has a most pecuhar interest for me. 
 Perhaps you do not remember that when Bernard Tauchnitz 
 pubhshed in Leipzig his loooth volume of British authors, viz., 
 the New Testament with notes on the text by Tischendorf, you 
 presented me with a copy. I was attracted by the various 
 readings, and partly from the remembrance of my dear mother's 
 dying message to ' search the Scriptures,' and partly from my 
 curiosity to catch preachers in mistranslated texts, I made 
 myself familiar with it. I next got Alford's translation. Front 
 curiosity and criticism God led me to see the beauty of His own 
 Word, and applied it to my heart. I would never be without 
 my Aiford ever since, and my first copy fell to pieces in my 
 hands through constant perusal. Here I got another, and that 
 has served me until now, when tln-ough your kindness the 
 Revised Version has reached mc, and 1 anticipate much ])lca- 
 sure in examining it in every verse and line. It will also be of 
 great service to me in the translation into Luganda." — Letter to 
 /lis father., March 13///, 18S3.
 
 LIFE IN EDINBURGH ^IND BERLIN.
 
 This day last year Livingstone died— a Scotchman and a 
 Christian, loving God and his neighbour, in the heart of Africa. 
 ' Go thou and do likewise.' " — Mackafs diary, Berlin, Jlfay 
 4i/i, 1874. 
 
 "My heart burns for the deliverance of Africa, and if you can 
 send me to any one of those regions which Livingstone and 
 Stanley have found to be groaning under the curse of the 
 slave-hunter, I shall be very glad." — A. M. Mackay, in letter to 
 CMS., Dec. \2tl1, 1875.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 LIFE IN EDINBURGH AND BERLIN. 
 
 IN the autumn of 1867, the family removed to 
 Edinburgh, and Mackay entered the Free Church 
 Training College for Teachers. In the admission 
 examination, he gained one of the higher bur- 
 saries; indeed, of those who had not been pupil 
 teachers, and thus specially prepared for the ex- 
 amination, he was the highest in Scotland of Free 
 Church candidates.^ All through his course he proved 
 
 ' The Rev. James Primrose, of Broxburn, a fellow-stuclcnt, 
 writes : — 
 
 "Mackay was one of my class-fellows; and though it is 
 twenty years since then, I have a distinct impression of him. 
 His manner was quiet and retiring, and he did not make many 
 companions, yet those who were privileged to know him inti- 
 mately found him to be widely read, and with acquirements far 
 beyond the average of students attending our Training Colleges. 
 
 " Many a time we ha'd talks together as we paced the College 
 , grounds. 
 
 " He seemed in those days to be resolute in purpose, deter- 
 mined to do the work thoroughly that lay to his hand, and of 
 steady, persevering habits sufficient to overcome any difficulties. 
 
 " There was no fitss or ostentation about him, but a quiet, 
 durable enthusiasm, characteristics that have shone out bril- 
 liantly in his later years, and rendered him worthy of the title 
 'The Hero of Uganda.'"
 
 12 LIFE IN EDINEURCII AND BERLIN. 
 
 himself not only one of the most faithful and devoted 
 students, but also one of the very ablest. The 
 diploma awarded at the close of the two years' cur- 
 riculum shows that he had j^ained at least ninety per 
 cent, of the marks in the written examination — the 
 subjects being Bible, Geography, History, Arithmetic, 
 Algebra, Geometry, Latin, Greek, School manage- 
 ment, skill in teaching, and theory of Music. 
 Drawing was ever a strong point with him, and in no 
 fewer than four different subjects (Freehand Drawing, 
 Practical Geometry, Perspective, and Model Drawing) 
 he received a prize from the Kensington Department. 
 
 Mackay frequently spoke afterwards of the great 
 benefit he received at this institution, and of his 
 unqualified admiration of the rector. Dr. Maurice 
 Paterson,^ of whom he was wont to say, " I owe him 
 much — more than much" (see page 106). 
 
 But as he was still bent on prosecuting engineering, 
 his father did all in his power to further his views in 
 that direction. Accordingly he studied Classics, Ap- 
 plied Mechanics and Engineering, Higher Mathema- 
 tics, and Natural Philosophy, at the Edinburgh Univer- 
 sity for three years; Surveying and Fortification with 
 
 ' "We need nothing more pressing in the Christian Church at 
 present, than men who will thus guide the young and the will- 
 ing to their work, showing what needs to be done, and adapting 
 talent to task. By taking up this function of the teacher, many 
 a man might bring into the service of Christ those whose con- 
 tributions would far surpass his own, as Barnabas did, when he 
 brought into the Church the services of Paul." — Luingo Cliristi.
 
 GAINING PRACTICAL SKILL. I3 
 
 Lieut. Mackic, Professor of Engineering-, for one year; 
 
 while for two years (1S70-72), besides being Secretary 
 of the Engineering Society, and teaching for three 
 hours each morning at George Watson's College, 
 he took the tram-car down to Lcith, and spent 
 the afternoon at the engineering works of Messrs. 
 Miller & Herbert, dressed in a blue smock, and 
 busily engaged model-making, fitting, turning, and 
 erecting machinery, while his evenings were em- 
 ployed in attending lectures on Chemistry, Geology, 
 etc., at the School of Arts, and other places.^ And 
 yet, with all this labour through the week, Sunday 
 was ever regarded as a day for holy activity. Spiri- 
 tually refreshed by the sainted Horatius Bonar in the 
 morning, the afternoon was generally spent in con- 
 ducting services in children's churches or in mission 
 halls ; while in the evening no teacher was more 
 devoted or more regular in attendance at the Sunday 
 School, in connection with Dr. Guthrie's Original 
 Ragged School, ably superintended by Robert Simp- 
 son, Esq., W.S. Here he formed the acquaintance 
 of another teacher. Dr. John Smith, which soon 
 ripened into a close and lasting friendship. Both 
 
 ' " I am so f;ir from thinking tbat my education has been 
 wasted in coming here, that I only wish I had got double the 
 amount of education, not only in the way of book learning, but 
 also in practical skilL This is a field which offers scope for the 
 highest energies. No man can know enough, and be able to 
 turn his hand to too many things, to be a useful missionary 
 in Central Africa." — Mac/cay^ Iciicr to Jiis father, Uganda^ \zth 
 Nov., 1 88 2.
 
 14 IJFP. I.V EDINBURGH ASD BERLIN. 
 
 went out in the C.M.S. pioneer expedition to Centfal 
 Africa, both their careers were unexpectedly brought 
 to a close, and now God has laid both to ftlccp by 
 the waters of the Nj'anza ! , 
 
 On the 1st of November, 1873, he set out for 
 German}-, in order to acquire its language more 
 thoroughly, that being the first step to becoming 
 acquainted with the stores of lore which that land 
 contains. He speedily secured a good position 
 as constntcteur, or draughtsman, in the " Berliner 
 Union Actien-Gesellschaft fur Eisengiesserei und 
 Locomobile Fabrikation," in Moabit, a west-end sub- 
 urb of Berlin. He was chiefly occupied in preparing 
 drawings and designs of machinery of all kinds, 
 especially locomotives and portable steam engines. 
 This worl-c he greatly enjoyed ; but it required much 
 skill, and much previous knowledge and study. His 
 hours were from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., with half an 
 hour interval, while his evenings were employed in 
 translating Llibsen's "Differential and Integral Cal- 
 culus," one of the best books on the subject in 
 German, and in inventing an agricultural machine,, 
 which obtained the first prize at the Exhibition of 
 Steam-machines held at Breslau. The engineering 
 works were on a large scale, employing one thousand 
 workmen, and sI.n; constriicteurs besides himself, no' 
 two of whom belonged to the same nationality, one 
 being an Austrian, one a Pole, one a Swiss, one 
 from Saxony, one from Schleswig-Holstein, one an 
 Italian, he himself from Scotland, and the directors'
 
 TRIALS OF FAITH. \^ 
 
 sons of Abraham. With regard to his companions 
 in the drawing office, he writes : — 
 
 " Here I am amongst a heathenish people ; almost 
 all are infidels, but agree in so far acknowledging the 
 existence of God as to continually use the expression 
 ' Ach Gott ! ' often more than once in the same 
 sentence. For some days past I have had to contend 
 very hard for the bare existence of God with my 
 companion draughtsmen. The only one who sym- 
 pathises with me is the gentleman at the next table, 
 and he is a Roman Catholic." 
 
 Referring to this subject later on, he writes : — 
 
 " My companions in the office having failed to 
 show me the foolishness of believing, in order to add 
 force to their sneers at religion, continually blaspheme 
 the name of God in dreadful terms. It is enough to 
 make one shudder to hear them. On this account, I 
 am obliged to have as little conversation with them 
 as possible, and hence cannot have the advantage of 
 German conversation as I would like." 
 
 Ill his diary, on January d>!h, 1874, is the entry : — 
 
 "Bonar's notes on ' I am the Light of the World,' 
 much blessed to me.^ 
 
 "Am I a light? I am asleep in carnality; I am an 
 unfaithful steward ; I lose far more opportunities of 
 
 1 His sister, now the wife of the Rev. Frank Russell, of Hull, 
 sent him, weekly, notes of Dr. H. Bonar's sermons, all the time 
 he resided in Berlin.
 
 i6 LIFE IN EDINBURGH AND BERLIN. 
 
 doing good than I use. Lord, forgive me ! Oh ! for 
 much prudence and tact in introducing the subject 
 of rehgion in a way that my companions will riot 
 take it amiss ! As McCheyne says : ' Some believers 
 are a garden that has fruit trees, and so are useful ; 
 but we also ought to have spices, and so be attrac- 
 tive.' " 
 
 Again, April i^t/i, 1S74 :— 
 
 " Hitherto I have been alone in lodgings, but it is 
 extremely wonderful how in the greatest desert God 
 always provides an oasis — an Elim for His people. 
 Since I came to Berlin I have been enabled to study 
 much of the Word of God, and to find something of 
 the inexhaustible mine of pure gold it contains. If I 
 had been at home, surrounded by so many sacred 
 influences, the probability is I might not have made 
 so much progress. One thing above everything, I 
 must make my Christianity a practical thing. ' It is 
 more blessed to give than to receive.' I am therefore 
 bound to obey this commandment. If I have 
 received, I must strive continually to lead others to 
 come and receive likewise from the great Giver." 
 
 God, however, prospered him in his profession; and 
 his directors, recognising his ability for constructing 
 machinery, removed him from the drawing office, and 
 made him c/icf of the locomotive department, where 
 he found amongst the workmen a very large sphere 
 of usefulness. Soon after he arrived in Berlin, he 
 became acquainted with Herr Hofprcdiger Baur, one
 
 A CULTURED AND PIOUS HOME. 17 
 
 of the ministers of the Dom, or cathedral, and one of 
 H.M. chaplains. This clergyman took a great fancy 
 to the young Scotchman, and invited him to come to 
 his house on Friday evenings, when he gave about a 
 dozen theological students a course of private lectures 
 on Anglo-Saxon literature, which was followed by 
 supper and music, after which ancient German 
 hymns were sung, Herr Baur leading with a glorious 
 voice, while the students sang in parts, making the 
 effect very fine. 
 
 In May, 1874, he went to board in the family of 
 Herr Hofprediger Baur, as he had already become 
 to him, and to the Frau Hofprediger, their " licbcr 
 SoJin Mackayy He considered that his residence in 
 this cultured and pious home was a great advantage 
 to him, not only for acquiring the language better 
 than he could by living alone in lodgings, but because 
 here he met, once a week, at the Bible readings, 
 the elite of the Christian society of Berlin, the most 
 distinguished being, perhaps, Griifin von Arnim, sis- 
 ter of Prince Bismarck ; Grafin Hacke ; also Graf 
 and Grafin von Egloffstein. The latter took a great 
 interest in him, and was amongst his most regular 
 correspondents during the whole of his African 
 career.^ 
 
 ^ The Countess von Egloffstein writes regarding this time .- 
 *' On hearing the most unexpected and sad news of your 
 noble brother's death, I recall the time when we made his ac- 
 quaintance in Berlin in the house of Hofprediger Baur, where 
 we met with dear friends for Bible reading. It was in this way 
 A. M. M. 2
 
 l8 LIFE IN EDINBURGH AND BERLIN. 
 
 At the Bible Class held on Sunday evenings in 
 connection with one of the churches, Mackay found 
 a congenial friend in the president, the late Rev. G. 
 P. Davies, the British and Foreign Bible Society's 
 agent in the city, who frequently drew him out to 
 lead the discussion on the passage, while all present 
 took part, in a more or less active way, in asking 
 questions, suggesting ideas, explaining difficulties, 
 etc. ; while many of the Americans, chiefly students 
 of divinity or medicine at the University, who had 
 travelled in the Holy Land and elsewhere, could often 
 bring to the point exceedingly interesting information 
 from their own observation. Mr. Davies also inter- 
 that we learned to appreciate your brother's knowledge of the 
 Word of God, and the warm interest with which he tried to 
 enter more and more into the wisdom which God has given to 
 those that fear Him and love Him. He was such a thorough 
 Christian, perfectly given to follow his Master, and he made us 
 think of jMiss Havergal's words — 
 
 ' Take my life, and let it be 
 Consecrated, Lord, to Thee ; ' 
 
 and when he told us that he wished to combine missionary 
 work with that of an engineer, and to serve his Master in the 
 Dark Continent, we were not surprised. It seemed so natural 
 that this young, serious, and faithful Scotchman should give 
 himself wholly to work in the Master's vineyard. Life was to 
 him a gift used for Jesus ! 
 
 " I believe, also, that the other friends in the circle formed 
 the same impression of his willingness to surrender himself 
 to God's service. To the question : ' Who then is willing to 
 consecrate his service this day unto the Lord?' he answered 
 steadfastly and humbly: 'Here am I; send me,' and added: 
 'All that Thou commandcst mc, I will do ; and whithersoever
 
 KINDRED SPIRITS. 19 
 
 ested Mackay in his wife's mission to cabmen, and two 
 or three hours were spent every Sunday morning 
 delivering to them tracts and portions of Scripture in 
 their own tongue. When Mackay went to reside at 
 the house of Herr Hofprediger Baur, he found him 
 actively engaged on a German translation of the Life 
 of Bishop Patteson, with whose family he was on 
 intimate terms. To find a kindred missionary spirit 
 in this home was a great joy to the young Scotch- 
 man, as the following letters will show how, in a very 
 quiet but remarkable way, the call to the mission 
 field had come to himself within six weeks after he 
 left his native land for Germany. 
 
 Thou sendest me, I will go ;' and he could thus offer himself, 
 understanding the words of St. Paul : ' Christ died for all, that 
 they which live should not henceforth live unto themselves, but 
 unto Him which died for them and rose again.' 
 
 "Your dear brother has indeed fought the good fight, and his 
 warfare is now accomplished. We never forgot him in our 
 family ; and the link uniting us, as children of God, found ex- 
 pression in letters which were frequently exchanged between the 
 Nyanza and Germany, and in prayers for the brave, noble, and 
 severely tried hero in Africa, who was so often alone in danger 
 and in grief. But he counted all things for loss, for the ex- 
 cellency of Christ Jesus, his Lord, and under His wings he was 
 safe, and never alone, for his Saviour was with Inm. 
 
 " ' In full and glad surrender 
 He gave himself to Thee ; 
 Thine utterly, and only, 
 And evermore to be ! * 
 
 " j\Iay you, his beloved family, be comforted by the thought 
 of his great and blessed satisfaction— the reward of heavoni/ 
 bliss which he now enjoys." — L. Grafin von Ei^loffsicin.
 
 2-. LIFE IN EDINBURGH AND BE R I. IX. 
 
 To HIS Sister : — 
 
 "Berlin, yd Aug., 1874. 
 
 " Well, it is through you, or what you wrote mc on 
 nth Dec. last, that what I now have to write you 
 exists. 
 
 '' You told mc then that you had been at a social 
 meeting of our Literary Association in Chalmers 
 Memorial Church ; that there you heard Dr. Burns 
 Thomson give an interesting account of Madagascar. 
 Dr. B. Th. also urged the young men of the Associa- 
 tion to give themselves to the work and go out as 
 medical missionaries there. Well, I am not a doctor, 
 and therefore cannot go as such ; but I am an engineer, 
 and propose, if the Lord will, to go as an engineering 
 missionary. Miserable chimera ! you will no doubt 
 call such an idea. Yet immediately on the receipt o^ 
 your letter I wrote Dr. Bonar, offering myself to sucl 
 work, and asking his advice. He wrote me that he 
 thought the ideas difficult to combine — mission work 
 with engineering, — but that he would be glad to make 
 inquiries for me as to how I might get an opening 
 there in such a capacity. Now, my dear sister, I 
 know the plan is entirely new, and will be difficult to 
 work. Of course I am as yet far from prepared to 
 undertake such a task, especially alone ; and of course 
 many obstacles stand in the way. You will ask me 
 how am I to get there. I am not careful as to that, 
 for I have one word against such a problem, viz. 
 'Jehovah Jireh.' You will ask'what am I to do when
 
 CHRISTIANITY AND CIVIUZATION. 21 
 
 I get there. Well, I hope especially to connect 
 Christianity with modern civilization. In England it 
 is true that as Christianity made progress, so civiliza- 
 tion advanced; and as civilization advanced, Christi- 
 anity became more deeply rooted, and shines now as 
 the light of an enlightened people. You will the 
 more readily agree with me that the two should go 
 together, if you read how Mohammedanism makes 
 such tremendous progress in Africa chiefly because 
 it carries with it a higher civilization than that which 
 existed in the countries to which it comes. My 
 chief energies I hope to be able to spend in estab- 
 lishing a college to train the young men in Religion 
 and Science together. Of course, I expect to execute 
 public works, as railways, mines, etc., which, for one 
 single-handed, is an enormous enterprise. It is more 
 to help the missionaries that are there already that I 
 go, than to supplant them ; also to prepare the way 
 by which others more readily can go there and stay. 
 The undertaking is very great ; give me your advice. 
 For the last few months I have been studying 
 Malagasy, and find it a beautiful language, as yoa 
 have told me. Rev. Mr. Davies, to whom I have 
 spoken of my intention, is delighted with the scheme, 
 so is Hofprediger Baur and other friends. If spared, 
 I should hope to go after two or three years, at least, 
 —perhaps much sooner. Advise me as to this. I 
 have much to learn before I go. 
 
 " Do not think me mad. It is not to make monc}* 
 that I believe a Christian should live. It will indeed
 
 =2 LIFE IN EDINBURGH AND BERLIN. 
 
 be a trial of all trials to part with you all to go to 
 such a countr}', where so many (2,000) Christians 
 were not very long ago put to death. Such persecu- 
 tions I do not expect will occur again. At any rate, 
 Christianity should teach men, of course, how to be 
 saved for eternity, but also how to live comfortably 
 and healthily together. As Rabbi Duncan so beauti- 
 fully and so profoundly says, ' First of all, it is our 
 duty not to have any sin. . . . My first concern 
 is to get quit of sin, or to know how God has provided 
 for my extrication. . . . The withdrawal of my 
 disability and the removal of sin's stain must precede 
 the free use of my nature for the glory of God. And 
 if these are effected, what remains but that I, a being 
 made in God's image, have to love Him and my fel- 
 low-creatures ? Is not that the sum of it .^ . . . Christ 
 said, " It is more blessed to give than to receive." 
 And the noblest thing a man can do is, just humbly 
 to receive, and then go amongst others and give. 
 . . . Many a better man than I has gone to heathen 
 countries before now ; why should not I go too } " 
 
 To HIS Father : — 
 
 "Bkrlin, 27/// Oa., 1S74. 
 " I thank God and thank you that you have 
 written me as you have done. When you consent, 
 I feel doubly sure that God consents. Your earnest 
 exhortation to me to ask wisdom and guidance from 
 above I endeavour to follow. Man is a volent being, 
 by virtue of what God has made him. Yet man is
 
 TERRIBLY IN EARNEST. 23 
 
 inwardly swayed by external circumstances. Now if 
 to my ears or hands there comes the message, ' Who 
 will go to preach the Gospel in Madagascar ? ' how 
 can I, except in unbelief, say otherwise than that God 
 caused that message to come to me ? And if it is 
 of God, must I not say, ' Here am I; send me'? It is 
 now nearly a year since then, and having put my 
 hand to the plough, I dare not look back. You will, 
 I feel sure, agree with me in this, as you have always 
 taught me to recognise the guidance of God in small 
 matters as well as in great. Dr. Bonar always taught 
 me the same also. The Word of God says so too. 
 Are not these three witnesses "i The thing is there- 
 fore clear enough. Well I know that if God does not 
 take me to Madagascar, I shall never get there ; and 
 if He does not bless me, my mission had better not 
 be undertaken at all. But, on the other hand, I be- 
 lieve I got that message just because God meant me 
 to receive it, and His blessing He will give in answer 
 to the prayer of faith. 
 
 " I know there is a mighty work here to do, and few 
 to do it. In fact, missionaries can nowhere be more 
 necessary than here. But I cannot, having once been 
 led to set my face to Madagascar, turn to other work 
 instead. But this will I do, if the Lord enable me : 
 I will be more ' terribly in earnest ' in working where 
 I am, knowing that I must soon go elsewhere. Per- 
 haps God means my combating here with infidelity 
 to be a training school for preparing me to combat 
 with a not more powerful fiend — idolatry. Still, I
 
 24 LIFE IN EDINBURGH AND BERLIN. 
 
 find the infidelity here only another name for in- 
 difference — and that exists in England under the 
 name of nominal Christianity. It is the same old 
 face, only a less deceptive name. Yet seed must be 
 sown here, for there is much ground here; and although 
 much falls on the wayside, much among thorns, and 
 much on stony ground, yet we have the Master's own 
 assurance that some — if not much — seed falls on good 
 ground, the result being very great. That parable 
 alone is enough to stir up the whole Church of Christ- 
 ians on earth to sow on all soils, if we would only 
 believe it. 
 
 " I put off replying to your letter sooner, as I 
 expected to hear from Dr. B. Thomson. As yet 
 however, I have not heard from him. I must not, 
 however, be in any haste in the matter. ' He that 
 believeth shall not make haste.' Of course if the 
 L.M.S. will send me, I must go when they will ; but 
 otherwise I am in no hurry to go. I should like, if 
 the Lord will, to wait at least a year yet. Still, I 
 must in this matter follow without hesitation God's 
 will and the will of His servants." 
 
 Dr. Mullens, secretary of the L.lM.S.j having heard 
 of Mackay's desire to go to Madagascar, wrote him a 
 very kind letter, saying " that at that time the island 
 was not ripe for his assistance, but was rapidly 
 making way in that direction, and might, in due 
 time, need such help as he could give." Mackay, 
 nothing daunted, plodded on, studying the Mala-
 
 CHRISTIANITY WORTH EVERYTHING. 25 
 
 gasy language in his leisure hours, and in November, 
 J 874, writes to his father : — " How much a missionary 
 must know, and how little I know ! Would God I 
 were ready and in the field ! But what a field is this 
 here ! A community like Berlin sunk in licentious- 
 ness of every form is difficult to deal with. If ever, 
 or anywhere, heathens are to be found, it is surely 
 here. 'By their fruits ye shall know them.' Their 
 fruits are drunkenness and debauchery. How I feel 
 for them, poor fellows ! Oh for a little of the power 
 of the Spirit such as has of late been manifested in 
 Scotland ! Nothing but the Spirit of God can open 
 the heart. I thank God that He has of late wakened 
 me up, to some extent, to feel that 'if Christianity is 
 worth an)^tiiing, it is worth eveiythinj^. If it calls for 
 any measure of zeal and warmth, it will justify the 
 utmost degrees of these, and that there is no con- 
 sistent medium between reckless atheism and the 
 intensest warmth of religious zeal.' Yet I know that 
 it is only in so far as I attain to a high spiritual life 
 by close fellowship with my risen Saviour that I can 
 be in any way fit for winning souls. Neither learning, 
 nor zeal, nor power of argument will accomplish 
 anything without the Spirit. God fill us with His 
 Spirit. That must be our prayer — a prayer that will 
 have an answer." 
 
 In his diary about this date are the entries : — 
 
 Oct. I'^th, 1S74. — Twenty-five years old this day 
 "Bless the Lord, O my soul !" for all His gocdncss."
 
 26 LIFE IN EDINBURGH AND BERLIN. 
 
 " Man is immortal till his work is done." Use me 
 in Thy service alone, Blessed Saviour. *' Das Evan- 
 gelium muss zuvor gepredigt werdcn unter alien 
 Volkern." 
 
 Oct. i:\th. — " Self-examination. — Why is a mission- 
 ary's life so often an object of my thoughts .-' Is it 
 simply for the love I bear to souls ? Then why do I 
 not show it more where I am?" (McChcyne). Lord, 
 open my mouth where I am ! 
 
 Oct. i^th. — This evening the new Hofpredigcr 
 Stocker at supper here. Seems an earnest, God-fear- 
 ing man. Herr Hofp. Baur and he took counsel 
 together to commence in earnest, by God's grace, the 
 evangelization of Berlin, especially among the social 
 democrats. Both see the need of laymen to help. 
 May they take counsel of God, and the hand of the 
 Lord be mighty upon them to save ! 
 
 Oct. 2\th. — Is it really the case that I believe I can 
 serve the Master more effectively by going to Mada- 
 gascar than by remaining in Germany, or than by 
 returning to my native land ? How my Father 
 searches my heart ! Lord Jesus, guide me by Thy 
 Spirit. 
 
 In April, 1S75, the Secretaries of the C.AI.S. issued an 
 appeal for a lay superintendent to take the secular oversight of a 
 settlement for liberated slaves near Mombasa, stating that " he 
 should be a thoroughly practical man, capable of superintending 
 the erection of buildings, the making of roads, etc., and of 
 directing the affairs of the settlement. . . . Above all, he 
 must be a devoted Christian, with his heart in the main object 
 of the mission — the furtherance of the Gospel. . . . Is 
 there no retired officer (not too old), or civil en^ijiec'}\ or master
 
 DECLINES A TEMPTING OFFER. 27 
 
 builder, or gentleman fanner, or otlic- qualified person, pre- 
 pared to give himself to this holy enterprise, and to help in 
 laying the foundation for the evangelization of the tribes of 
 East Africa ? 
 
 Mackay having seen this appeal, writes home : — 
 "Remembering that Duff first thought of Africa as a 
 mission-field, but was sent to India, and that Living- 
 stone originally intended to evangelize China, but the 
 Lord willed he should spend his life in Africa, so 
 perhaps the Lord means me, after all, to turn my 
 attention to the Dark Continent ; accordingly I have 
 offered my services to the C.M.S., — the greatest 
 missionary society in the world — for Mombasa," The 
 C.M.S., however, had 'already accepted a man for 
 the post in question,' but said 'that if they should 
 require any one for a similar position, they would be 
 glad to communicate with him.' 
 
 In September, 1875, the engineering company in 
 Moabit dissolved, and the chief director (a rich 
 Jew) made Mackay a highly advantageous offer 
 of partnership in similar works at Moscow ; but his 
 one desire being to bring his secular and spiritual 
 capabilities into direct service in the Master's king- 
 dom, he declined the tempting offer, and, waiting on 
 the Lord for guidance, accepted an engagement as 
 first constnictcur in the Niederlansitzer INIaschincnbau 
 Actien Gesellschaft und Eisengiesserei at Kottbus, 
 sixty miles south-east of Berlin. Here he found much 
 opportunity for Christian work, and much of his 
 spare time was employed in sending to all the clergy
 
 2S LIFE IN EDINBURGH AND BERLIN. 
 
 in Germany, Bonar's little book, "IVortcan Sec/sorter" 
 (" Words to Soul Winners "), which had been greatly 
 blessed to himself. He also, with the author's per- 
 mission, and at his own expense, arranged for the 
 translation of "Grace and Truth " ^ into the German 
 tongue, with the intention of distributing it in like 
 manner; but before it was published, Stanley's famous 
 letter, describing his visit to Mtesa, and challenging 
 Christendom to send missionaries to Uganda, ap- 
 peared in the columns of the Daily Telegraph, which 
 led to the C.M.S. undertaking a mission to the 
 Victoria Nyanza, and Mackay was one of the first 
 to offer his services. Meantime, Dr. Duff having 
 heard of his correspondence with the C.RI.S., wrote 
 him a long and kind letter, urging him either to wait 
 for an opening in the Free Church Mission to Lake 
 Nyassa, or else to join the Established Church of 
 Scotland's Mission to the same region. He concludes 
 his letter thus : — 
 
 " The Convener of the Established Church of 
 Scotland's Committee has told me that they are 
 sending out a little steamer to Lak'e Nyassa, and 
 that they will require a head engineer-, etc. I know 
 they would 'oe thankful to accept your services, 
 ill which case you would have full scope for }-our 
 
 • It was this book which opened the eyes of Uishop 
 Hannington, and has been blessed to muUitudes of others ; 
 and Mackay tliought that the plain and emphatic manner in 
 which it stated the truths of the Gospel was wonderfully suited 
 to the German mind.
 
 ACCETTED FOR UGANDA. 29 
 
 engineering talents in God's service, with as much 
 evangelistic work besides as you would care to under- 
 take. I do not at present see how you can in the 
 C.M.S. intended mission turn your professional skill 
 to good account, or, indeed, to any account at all. 
 This I would regard as a calamity, as your profes- 
 sional skill is a TALENT, and an important one, which 
 you might, and, if possible, ought to turn to good 
 account in our blessed Master's service. At least, 
 this is clearly my own judgment in the matter ; and if 
 I understood him aright, it is your father's judgment 
 also. If, after committing the cause to God, you think 
 well of this, send me copies of your testimonials, with 
 a letter from yourself, and I will submit all, with my 
 own recommendation, to the Convener. 
 " May the Lord graciously guide you. 
 
 " I remain, yours very sincerely, 
 
 "Alexander Duif 
 
 Edinburgh, Jan. 26///, 1S76." 
 
 But God over-ruled it otherwise, for the same post 
 brought Mackay also the following letter from Mr. 
 Wright, Hon. Secretary, C.IM.S :— 
 
 {Copy) - 
 'Church Missionary Society, 
 
 "Salisbury Square, London, E.C, 
 "Dear Mr. Mackay, — Jan. 26th, 1876. 
 
 " The recommendations of the Central African 
 Sub-Committee were brought before the Committee
 
 30 LIFE IN EDINBURGH AND BERLIN. 
 
 yesterday, and I have the pleasure in being able to 
 inform you that they very thankfully accepted youi 
 offer of yourself for the Lord's work in* connection 
 with their mission to the Victoria Nyanza. 
 
 " They cannot but trust that the matter is of the 
 Lord, and their prayer is that He will graciously 
 accept this special dedication of yourself, and make 
 you an honoured instrument for the advancement of 
 His kingdom in the heart of Africa. 
 
 " They did not enter upon the question — which 
 was suggested when you were here — of your ordina- 
 tion. I think they will rather be. disposed to send 
 you forth as you are without loss of time ; but this 
 will be arranged when you come over. 
 
 " As was mentioned when you were here, the 
 Committee would wish you to treat your present 
 employers with every consideration ; at the same 
 time they would be glad to have your services at 
 their disposal at the earliest opportunity, as they are 
 anxious there should be no unnecess^^ry delay in 
 carrying out their undertaking. Let us know how 
 soon we may expect you. 
 
 " Commending you in all things to the all-sufficient 
 
 grace of our Lord Jesus Christ, believe me, 
 
 " Very faithfully yours, 
 
 ''{Signed) Henry Wright, 
 
 " Hon. Sec, C.M.S. 
 "Mr. a. ]\L Mack ay." 
 
 He retunieJ to England early in March ; and as the
 
 GETTING READ}. 
 
 plans of the C.M.S. became more developed, it was 
 determined to combine the industrial with the re- 
 ligious element. And the Committee sanctioned for 
 this end not only a light cedar boat for the navi- 
 gation of the Wami, in the hope of the expedition 
 getting by water to the foot of the hills of Usagara ; 
 but they also agreed that if an engine and boiler 
 could be procured for ;^300, and be fitted into a 
 wooden boat to be built by the missionaries on the 
 Victoria Nyanza, the money would be granted. The 
 heavy carriage of such machinery presented a for- 
 midable difficulty, and many weary days Mackay 
 toiled through the streets of London before he 
 succeeded in getting an engineer to manufacture a 
 boiler according to his own design — on the principle 
 of ivelded rings, yet each light enough to be carried 
 up country by two men. Tools of all kinds, chiefi\' 
 for working in wood and iron, and much else, he had 
 to purchase. At length he went down to Edinburgh 
 to see his relatives, and to spend his last days at 
 home ; but to their great disappointment they saw 
 little of him, nor would he respond to almost an\' 
 of the invitations of kind friends, all of whom were 
 eager to receive him. There was no such word as 
 holiday in his vocabulary ; his mission was to him 
 a wJiole-soulcd passion, and every hour was turned to 
 practical account in picking up useful arts. Three 
 hours learning astronomy and the use of the sextant 
 from one of the officers at Leith Fort, and three 
 hours in the printing-office of Messrs. Blackwood &
 
 LIFE J.\' EDINBURGH AXD BERLIN. 
 
 Sons, would fill up one day, while the next would be 
 spent at Mr. Ross, the photographer's, and in the 
 Medical Dispensary, learning to vaccinate and to use 
 the stethoscope, while another would be occupied in 
 seeing through some of the many Glasgow manu- 
 factories, or in running down to Motherwell, where 
 the relatives of the distinguished "Gavin Ogilvy' 
 kindly showed him all the details of iron-puddling 
 and coal-mining. 
 
 And he left — the youngest (but one) of the well- 
 equipped party of eight ^ — -but in God's providence 
 
 ' Just fourteen years ago, on April 25th, 1876, the C.M.S. 
 Committee, at one of their ordinary meetings, quietly and un- 
 ostentatiously took leave of five members of the first missionary 
 cioedition to the Victoria Nyanza. Lieut. G. Shergold Smith 
 and two artisans had already sailed. Tlie party of five com- 
 prised the Rev. C. T. Wilson, Mr. T. O'Neill, Dr. John Smith, 
 Mr. James Robertson, and Mr. A. M. Mackay. After Mr. 
 Wright, then Honorary Secretary, had delivered the Instructions, 
 the five brethren successively replied, in accordance with the 
 usual custom. W^e vividly remember one of those five little 
 speeches. It was Alexander Mackay's. He was the youngest 
 of the band, and was called upon last. " There is one thing," 
 were his words in substance, "which my brethren have not said, 
 and which I want to say. I want to remind the Committee that 
 within six months they will probably hear that one of us is dead.'- 
 The words were startling, and there was a silence that might be 
 felt. Then he went on, — "Yes; is it at all likely that eight 
 Englishmen should start for Central Africa and all be alive six 
 months after ? One of us at least — it may be I — will surely fall 
 Ijefore that. But," he added, "what I want to say is this : when 
 that news comes, do not be cast down, but send some one else 
 immediately to take the vacant place." — Eugene Stock., Editorial 
 Secretary, C.M.S.
 
 JSA'S FOR PiiAYEk. ^\ 
 
 destined, in the short space of three years, to be 
 the only representative in Africa of that original 
 band. 
 
 On April 27th, his last letter home, before embark- 
 ing on SS. Pcs/caiL'uri\-om Southampton, concludes: — 
 
 "Having placed myself in the hands of the CAI.S., 
 \vhose proceedings are ever guided by prayer to Him 
 who over-rules all, I doubt not but everything is 
 ordered for the best. 
 
 " May God grant me humble, trustful dependence 
 on His promises in Christ Jesus our Lord ; and thus, 
 going forward in His strength, and not my own, I 
 may rely on that arm which aforetime divided the 
 Red Sea aiul made the waters of Jordan to stand on 
 an heap. 
 
 "It is His cause — it must prosper, whether I be 
 spared to see its consummation or not. Way God 
 give me liealth and strength and fit me for so 
 glorious a work", the enlargement of the kingdom of 
 His dear Son ! 
 
 " Tray for mc, that grace may be given me to keep 
 steadily in view the one great object. 
 
 *' Your loving Son, 
 
 " A. ]\I. Macxav." 
 
 "We luirry onward to extinguish licU 
 With our fresh souls, our youni;cr hope, and (]od's 
 r.Iaturity of purpooc. Soon shall we 
 Die also!" 
 
 A. ?.r. M 3
 
 Oy THE ROAD.
 
 "I gladlv testify that wliat I learned of the stocking ft, .me 
 uas not thrown away ; the facility of using tools, and of 
 watching and keeping the machinery in order, came to be of 
 threat value to me in tlie Foreign Mission Field." — Joint C. 
 Paten, Missionary to the Neiu Hebrides. 
 
 "A little carpentering, black and tin smithing, shocmaking 
 and tailoring would be a real gift to a young man ; he would 
 uc the prouder of hiuisclf, feeling, 'Let the worst come to the 
 worst, I am not useless.' " — General Cordon's LeIIeis io Ins 
 Sister.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 FROM an old journal, the outer leaves of whicli 
 are illegible from the action of the waves, 
 having been lost in the wreck of the Daisy at 
 Sadani, June 20th, 1876, but washed ashore some 
 days afterwards, and sent to Mackay by Bwana Heri, 
 the Sultan of Sadani, I cull the following extracts 
 from his account of the voyage from Southampton 
 to Zanzibar. 
 
 Sunday, April lOtJi, 1S76. — At 10.30 the captani 
 read prayers in the saloon, when a good number 
 turned up to take part. Of course one or two of 
 tlie ;/// adinirari men stayed on deck smoking. 
 Every one knows — they knew themselves — tliat they 
 only made themselves contemptible by so doing. 
 O'Neill and I, however, with no feelings ot Pharisa- 
 ism, joined heartily in the service, however formal it 
 might be supposed by some "tdtras " to be, as we 
 wished to join with every one who inclined to echo 
 Joshua's motto, " As ibr me and my house, we will 
 serve the Lord." In the evening it becainc mucli 
 more settled, and the stars came out to join us in 
 forgetting the discomfort of the previous da}-s. 
 
 37
 
 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 Monday, May ist, 1876. — ]\'Iay day, warm, and 
 bright, and clear. No day could be finer. Passing 
 down the Portuguese coast, we can almost in- 
 stinctively know we are in proximity to the sunny 
 land of the vine. The ends of the great sierras 
 are to be seen as we skirt the coast. The sea is 
 calm, and the sun warm, and every lady shows 
 herself in her fairest of fair sexness. The P. and O. 
 stand now a poor chance of their cook's stores hold- 
 ing out too long. But the master of culinary opera- 
 tions seems to do his best to make it fashionable 
 when the bell rings, so we do our best to reward him 
 for his trouble by sending his largest dishes empty 
 back to him. 
 
 Afternoon, 3.30. — Near Cape St. Vincent. Every 
 man uses his eyes, with or without spectacles, 
 binoculars, or telescopes, to the utmost. Bold, 
 inhospitable coast — seems to be much sandstone. 
 But the pleasant slopes behind we can only picture 
 in our fancy. Ah, poor Spain, and poorer Portugal ! 
 I see only a blind wall when I see thee. But if 
 I could, liJcc a mason, see through that wall, what 
 should I find ? — a people blinder still. The loving 
 Lord has given thee a sunny land with pretty 
 mountain slopes, where every man in thee may 
 sit under his own vine and lie in the shade of 
 liis own fig-tree. But the venomous blood of the 
 Bourbons and the cursed leaven of Rome hav^e 
 undermined thy vital powers, and now thou art a 
 corrupting mass, v/aiting, maybe, till, lilvC thy fellow-
 
 /.A NZIBA R S TO KERS. 
 
 victim of the East, thy sickness proves incurable, and 
 thou wilt cease to be. 
 
 Tuesday, Ulay 2nd, 1876. — O'Neill woke me up at 
 half-past five to see the African coast. I jumped at 
 once to let my eye catch its first glance at the huge 
 continent, the heart of which we meant to pierce. 
 Now for thousands of miles we shall keep its high- 
 lands in view to our starboard, and after all we shall 
 not have compassed the half of its mighty mass. 
 Now for the springing up of new light in the dark 
 land of dusky Ham ! Is there any power that will 
 elevate the degraded race ? Yes, the Gospel — mighty 
 power ! We did not create Christianity — we received 
 it, and received with it every blessing we have. Is 
 it, therefore, much for us to give a little of what we 
 had no right to get, and got only to give? But 
 Christians talk at home of the expense of missions, 
 and the sacrifice that missionaries make in setting 
 to do a fraction of what tlicy ought to do who adopt 
 the proxy system of doing nothing at all. 
 
 To-day, after lunch, I heard a row above the stoke- 
 hole. I came on deck, and found the Zanzibar men 
 on board in true character. There they were, with 
 their closely shorn heads and their airy garments, 
 hoisting the ashes and cinders' from the boiler-room 
 floor to the deck. As each bucket went through the 
 process of passing up or down the hoist, all joined 
 in a most unmusical chant, the two or three who 
 were working the hardest singing the most lustil\'. 
 One fat fellow shouted so hard and clapped his hands
 
 40 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 SO energetically that the perspiration poured down 
 his face and open chest. The two who were really 
 working shouted the loudest, the others seemingly 
 exerting themselves chiefly in keeping up the song 
 and beating perfect time by way of inciting the busy 
 pair. 
 
 These Seedee boys, as they are called at Bombay, 
 are negroes from Zanzibar. As stokers, I believe, 
 they are very good. When not engaged below, they 
 lie above on the grating over the boilers, and either 
 sleep away their idle hours or make jests among 
 each other, one occasionally tapping the top of a 
 rude drum with his fingers. But musical certainly 
 they are not in our sense of the term. Their ear 
 may, by training, be able to trace a melody in beats 
 upon a badly strung drum, and simultaneous cries 
 resembling ki — i — i — a — i — i — ia — proceeding from 
 any other part of the throat than the lar^-nx. 
 
 What the derivation of the v/ord Seedee is I do not 
 know, but was told this morning — with what pro- 
 bability of accuracy I leave the reader to judge — 
 that the}' are called C. D. boys, because they do not 
 answer to the epithet A. B. ! (Able Bodied ?). 
 
 Sat7irJa)\ May Gt/i. — Arrived at j\Ialta. What 
 a dried-up looking place ! Sandstone, sandstone, 
 sandstone! Civita Vecchia (old city) is seen from 
 Malta ; at least, the town which stands near the bay 
 where the great apostle was shipwrecked. We did 
 not go there, as we wished to spend some time ex- 
 amining St. John's Church. Tlain building outside,
 
 THE EAVESDROPPING PRIES7. 41 
 
 but the interior profusely decorated. The paintinjjs 
 on the roof are quite recent, but there are some fine 
 old works of art on the sides, both on canvas and in 
 stone. It v/as the afternoon, and no service ; mass 
 being, of course, all over by twelve noon. As \vc 
 went in, we were conducted round by a respectable- 
 looking doorkeeper or sacristan, two others, less 
 respectable looking, sitting inside th.e door. Soon 
 however, one of the two — the more respectable one 
 — ^joined us, and assisted in explaining to us the 
 pictures, etc. The third, and least respectable of all, 
 I noticed lounging about with his hands in his 
 pockets, and always keeping within hearing distance 
 of our subdued remarks. After we had seen the 
 burning lamps, and the rows of candles not burning ; 
 the large altar and the host of small ones ; the 
 beautiful marble pillars, and more beautifully inlaid 
 work ; the grotesque, helical columns, and tombs of 
 the brave old knights, we paid our douceur and 
 departed. When outside the door, we asked our 
 guide what the third fellovv' was who walked about 
 the church after us with his big paunch and shabby 
 suit. "That was a priest," said the man. And so 
 I hope it was. Thou disguised Jesuit ! (lam guilty 
 of redundancy of expression in using these two words 
 together.) I knew not that thou wert one, but perhaps 
 thy eavesdropping may do thee good. Thou didst 
 see m.e open one of the choral books, and, reading 
 a few of its Latin sentences, ask the sacristans if they 
 understood the words I read. Didst thou not hear
 
 43 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 thcin say they did not understand ? Didst thou not 
 hear me challenge them for a defence of their 
 hypocrisy in pretending to worship God by the 
 priest vainly babbling to them in an unknown 
 tongue? Oh that foul leaven of thine which is 
 hypocrisy ! What is Italy to-day but what thy 
 corrupt teaching for centuries has made it ? What 
 is Spain ? What is Ireland ? Even in ]\Ialta thy 
 vileness is everywhere conspicuous. Beggary, igno- 
 rance, blackguardism, crime, — these are the charac- 
 teristic marks, with filth and poverty too. 
 
 We go to plant Churches of the living God in 
 Central Africa ; but we go sowing the good seed, 
 knowing only too well that thy hand will soon come 
 and sow tares among the wheat. The good meal 
 will soon be leavened by thy stealthy hand, till the 
 whole be one vile mass corrupted by thy Mary 
 worship and thy mass worship ! 
 
 But ignorance is the ground where thou plantest 
 credulity most, and where thy false pretensions are 
 of any avail; and to thwart thee in thine unprincipled 
 actions, I shall, in the name and strength of God, 
 set up my printing press on the shores of the 
 Victoria Nyanza, and I shall not cease to toil till 
 the story of the Cross of Christ be printed in the 
 language of Karague and Uganda, and every man 
 be taught to read it and believe it too ! 
 
 Monday, ]\Iay ^th, 1876. — Steaming quietly E.S.E., 
 about 100 miles to the south of Crete. The island 
 is not in sight. ]\Iet one large steamer and a bri;^
 
 Oy CIIANGIXG IIORSEPj. 43 
 
 this morning. Otherwise no vessel within siglit 
 yesterday or to-day. Studied a little Suahili and 
 medicine. Took an observation by way of amusement, 
 and checked thermometers. Cool wind, beautiful 
 sky, full moon. Just as the sun went down, Candia 
 was to be seen far in the distance. Last sight of 
 Europe for a long time to come ! 
 
 Wednesday, JMay loih, 1876, — This morning Port 
 Said in sight. The deep blue of the Mediterranean 
 water is changed for the less clear liquid of the old 
 Nile. This my first taste of the Nile ; but every one 
 can bathe at its mouth. My next, God willing, will 
 be at its source. 
 
 Wednesday, JMay ijtk. — This morning arrived at 
 Aden. The famous water-tanks at Aden we drove 
 to see. They adjoin the town itself, which lies about 
 three and a half miles east from Stear Point. As 
 examples of heavy concrete work, the tanks are well 
 worth seeing ; but otherwise there is nothing at all 
 remarkable about their construction, from an engi- 
 neering point of view. The driver of our carriage 
 was much perplexed at our ideas of anti- cruelty to 
 animals, when we took his whip from him to put 
 a stop to his perpetual belabouring of the two 
 skeletons in front of him. On reaching Aden he 
 promised to put in fresh horses, and on our coming 
 down from the tanks, he assured us he had done so ; 
 but we found no difficulty in assuring ourselves, and 
 him too, that these were the same poor animals that 
 had driven us there, only he had clianged sides, with
 
 44 ON 7'IIE KOAD. 
 
 putting right for left ! I lifted the harness on the 
 brutes' backs, and found the skin fearfully cut. Is 
 there no friend of the horse in Aden ? Do English- 
 men cease to be humane because tliey stay there ? 
 It seems to be so, else I should not have seen what I 
 have seen. 
 
 Monday, May 29///, 1S76. — To-night, as the sun 
 went down, passed Kokoto-ni, the north end of the 
 island Zanzibar. The sun went down two hours 
 before we came to Zanzibar, but the moon was bright. 
 The captain was chaffed by some of us as to his not 
 being able to take us in that night. The navigation 
 among the coral reefs is very difficult. He felt on 
 his mettle, so he borrowed my binocular, an excellent 
 one for night work, ascended the bridge, and never 
 came down till we cast anchor in the fine morning 
 off the town at 8 a.m. Thanks to Almighty God we 
 are at our journey's end — let me rather say beginning. 
 
 A. M. Mackav. 
 
 \\\ a letter dated Zanzibar, 30th June, 1S76, he 
 writes : — 
 
 "Lieut. Smith and I started on Monday, 12th 
 June, for the exploration of the Wami. We were 
 eight days up tlie river, which we ascended only 
 about seventy miles. It is frightfully winding, and 
 navigable perhaps two or three times as far as we 
 went. But we found the people inhospitable,^ and 
 
 ' Lieut. Smith and INI.ick.iy did not know then tliat the Wadoi 
 are notorious cannibals.
 
 ASCENDS THE IV^IMI. 45 
 
 the chiefs extortionate in their demands ; besides, the 
 water was falling rapidly (two inches per day). As a 
 rule we had from five to seven feet of water, and 150 
 in breadth. But what took us five days to go up 
 takes only two days to walk in a direct line. The 
 illness of Lieut. Smith, however, decided our return. 
 He had fever three times within the first five days, 
 and the last attack reduced him so very much that 
 he was not even able to sit up, and is now only 
 recovering from it. To the lovingkindness and pro- 
 tection of the good Lord, I owe perfect immunity 
 from the sun and poisonous malaria all the time. As 
 we slept night after night between the jungly banks 
 of the river, the kind eye of the Redeemer watclied 
 over VIS. Had we both been ill at once, we know not 
 who would have returned to tell the talc ; but the 
 Lord ordained it otherwise, and to Him be praise. 
 Perhaps much of my escape is due to the fact of the 
 whole trouble falling on me during the greater portion 
 of the time, as Smith was quite incapacitated. After 
 coming back, we were swamped, Daisy and all, by the 
 waves off Sadani. We rescued almost everything, 
 however, and I got Smith to bed in the chiefs house 
 there. I chartered a dhow there, and at midnight I 
 came on board her with our stuff, leaving some medi- 
 cine with Smith, and the boat in careful hands. Cold 
 and wet and hungry, I lay down in the miserable 
 hulk among some goods down in the hold. \\\ six 
 hours I was here, and found the Ilighuxiid Lass:c 
 had arrived. O'Neill I found down with fever, but
 
 45 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 ihc rest well, thank God. Robertson and I started 
 off in a few hours back to Sadani in the Highland 
 Lassie. At night we drew near shore. Robertson 
 and I went ashore in a boat to see where we were, 
 but the tide was a mile out, and we lost our boat. 
 So we had no help for it but make for the mainland, 
 walking up to the knees in mud. We were directed 
 providentially to a small fire of sticks where a boy 
 was sleeping. He had been there cutting wood all 
 day. We learned from him that we were a dozen 
 miles south of Sadani! So we took off our boots, 
 filled inside with mud and water, and sat by the fire 
 waiting for dawn of day. At daybreak we found our 
 boat and got back to the ship, made for Sadani, and 
 brought Smith and the Daisy back. Some of us will 
 start in a few days up the Kingani, to send Clark and 
 O'Neill on to Usagara. I do not think I shall go, as 
 there is so much to be done here for the general 
 caravan." 
 
 Lieut. Smith, having had another attack of fever, 
 was unable to go up the Kingani as he intended ; 
 but Mackay went, accompanied by Mr. Holmwood 
 the Vice-Consul, whose knowledge of the people 
 and facility in speaking Suahili proved of essential 
 service. They were away from the 7th to the 27th 
 of July exploring the river, which was found navi- 
 gable as far as they went (160 miles), but even more 
 tortuous than the Wami — so much so that the little 
 Daisy itself proved too long to get round the sharp 
 bends easily. Moreover, the numerous stumps of trees
 
 SEKWUSLY ILL. 47 
 
 in the channel rendered steering very difficult, and, 
 indeed, the Daisy struck on one coming down, and 
 sustained some damage. The idea of a water route 
 was therefore abandoned. 
 
 The expedition for the interior was divided into 
 four parties, and ]\Iackay led the third caravan of 
 200 porters, etc. 
 
 In November, he became seriously ill in the march 
 through Ugogo, but only allowed himself to be 
 sent back on condition that Dr. Smith did not ac- 
 company him, which he was determined to do, and 
 wrote to Edinburgh that " he certainly would have 
 done, but that such a suggestion seemed to retard the 
 prospect of his patient's recovery." So the two parted 
 never to meet again in the flesh, for Dr. Smith died 
 shortly afterwards, and Mackay writes broken- 
 heartedly : " My noble and good brother is taken 
 from us — so gentle and kind, and a capital physician. 
 I will never look on his like again ! " 
 
 JMackay recovered before he reached the coast, 
 but received instructions from the C.M.S. not to start 
 for the interior until June, by which time the rainy 
 season would be over. The following extracts from 
 letters to his family show how he employed his time 
 in sending on a relief caravan to his brethren on the 
 lake. Some interesting rcncoitrcs with slave-dealers 
 are also described, as well as his adventures while 
 cutting a good road to IMpwapwa, 230 miles inland, 
 and amusing incidents in his attempt to take bul- 
 lock-wagons up country.
 
 4^ OX THE ROAD. 
 
 " C.M.S.S. HigJdand Lassie, C)th Dec, 1876. 
 
 "Off Zanzibar. 
 
 " Unhappily I had to return Jwrs dc combat; but, 
 contrary to my most sangiilne expectations, I re- 
 covered long before I came to the coast. I fully 
 expected when I left my companions that I should 
 have to take a turn down to Johanna or Natal to 
 recover, as my disease seemed so deeply inset. Aber 
 der licbe Gott ist inir gnddig gcivcscn nnd scJion bin 
 ich iioch cimiial gcsiind. As a rule we did not find a 
 camp where we spent the night on our run down 
 from Mpwapwa, so I just had my tent put up in 
 the open air under a tree, and there I alwa\'s slept 
 soundly. My men lit their fires and lay round me on 
 the grass. It never got cold at night — i.e. not below 
 So'', or at the lowest 75" Fahr., — so that with two 
 thick blankets over me to keep the dew off, I was all 
 right. But with such marching one must eat well. 
 There is net always anything to be had to eat ; but 
 I bought the smoked leg of a wild boar at Mpwapwa, 
 and that, with a few fowls' eggs I bought by the way, 
 served to make me a decent meal. 
 
 " I am living here on board the Highland Lassie 
 out in the anchorage. On shore the mosquitoes bite so 
 hard that I find it better to sleep on the cool deck of 
 our little missionary ship. At present there is little 
 quietness, as mechanics from the London are repair- 
 ing the vessel. It is, I believe, most beneficial and 
 necessary to be laid down a bit. It keeps a fellow's 
 pride and confidence in himself doiKr>. ?.nd makes him
 
 NO REGRETS. 49 
 
 see how all strength comes from the great Giver 01 all 
 things good. I enjoy very much reading all the 
 papers you send me. The British Association and 
 the present anti-Turkish feeling have afforded me 
 many a pleasant and profitable hour's reading. I 
 have not yet had time to read more than the half 
 of last month's news. To-day or to-morrow should 
 bring in the next budget, too. All success to the 
 King of Belgium and the Glasgow merchants. I read 
 in The Record — Church of England organ — a full 
 report of a recent great meeting where Sir B. Frerc, 
 Price of Mombasa, Cameron, and Sir J. Kennaway 
 were the chief speakers. The spirit of the speeches 
 v/as all that my heart could desire. It is worth while 
 to hear African men talk about Africa, But the stay- 
 at-home savans are generally ridiculous in their 
 remarks. You would scarcely believe it, but scarcely 
 a single European in Zanzibar has been over as far 
 as Bagamoyo. The continent over the way is a blank 
 to them. 
 
 " I am sorry S should think I entertain regrets 
 
 at coming out here. Why, I would not exchange 
 my position for a thousand times the value of his. 
 It is true that I have much secular work to do 
 yet before I get settled down in Uganda, and pro- 
 bably shall have much more after ; but it is all for 
 the one end w^u'ch my heart's desire is to see accom- 
 plished." 
 
 A. M. M.
 
 so ON THE ROAD. 
 
 "Zanzibar, ^'^tJi Jan., 1877. 
 
 "FK'Ing about and hurry and worry seem to be the 
 work I have on hand at present. I do much, very 
 much long to be at my proper work in Uganda ; but 
 these preliminaries must be done, and I have no 
 reason to grudge having an extra long spell at them. 
 My engineering now has turned into pagazi-hunting, 
 donkey-driving, and cattle-dealing. Such work, com- 
 bined with making up of bales for carriage, training 
 bulls for draught, and preparing all the necessaries for 
 an expedition into Central Africa, requires all my 
 time and thought. Above all things, it requires fore- 
 thought. In Germany I used to be asked why it was 
 that we English engineers were more successful in 
 our designs than Germans who were more scientifi- 
 cally trained. My reply was, that the first essential of 
 a good designer wd.'s, forctliougJit (Vorsicht), the second 
 experiment (das Probiren), the third courage (Muth). 
 These things I used to put before indefinite calculation 
 and beautiful drawings. And now I find that my 
 training in these essentials, with such materials as 
 steam and steel, does me good service in the present 
 work, where the outfit of a caravan is the thing 
 wanted." 
 
 " 5/// March, 1877. 
 
 " I told you last month that Mr. Wright had writ- 
 ten me not to start for Uganda till June; so I have 
 this month fitted up a caravan of about seventy loads, 
 and despatched it under charge of an Englishman 
 named Morton, who once belonged to the English
 
 LIBERATES SOME SLAVES. 51 
 
 Universities' Mission here. My instructions are also 
 to set to work on the road from Sadani to Mpwapwa. 
 I shall likely put a good gang of men, sixty or 
 seventy, on the work, that I may be able to progress 
 rapidly. Every one here agrees with me in regard- 
 ing my proposal of a ivoodeu tramway as the most 
 feasible and cheap method of roadway. 
 
 " In the course of the month I have had various 
 adventures outside of the work of equipping the cara- 
 van. Living at Sadani, I have discovered that large 
 slave caravans are continually passing the place. I 
 liberated the slaves of one caravan, and gave chase to 
 several others. An Englishman from Zanzibar camiC 
 over to see me one day, and joined me in a pursuit 
 of forty miles in one day ; but want of food compelled 
 us to return at nightfall after we had almost overtaken 
 a gang of 120 little children in chains. A Swiss 
 gentleman — called M. Philippe Broyon— and myself 
 attacked another caravan one evening ; but the Arabs 
 and slaves got off in the jungle when it became dark. 
 The Arabs kept up a hard fire against us, and shot 
 one of my men, breaking his pelvis bone. Bro}-on 
 shot an Arab in the leg, and unfortunately killed a 
 slave, I believe. But I have determined to let all 
 slavers pass by quietly in future, as the chief and 
 people of Sadani are determined to rather help the 
 infernal traffic than stop it. Some of them went out 
 to help Broyon and me, but they took care to put 
 no powder in their guns, and previously advised the 
 slavers to get off as fast as possible, as white men were
 
 52 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 coming after them. Said Burgash's great edicts of 
 last June are paid not the sh'ghtest attention to, and 
 the traffic is at present going on as bad as, if not 
 worse than, ever. I have informed Dr. Kirk of what 
 I find going on, and he has got the Sultan to inform 
 the chief of Sadani that he will be under peril of his 
 life if more slaves pass through Sadani. The friend- 
 ship of the chief — Bwana Heri — is very useful to me, 
 as Sadani is now my depot and place for starting 
 inland ; but we cannot agree about the slave trade, 
 and he knows my presence there is bringing him into 
 hot water. Still, I must do my duty, and I 'know I 
 shall not be put to shame. 
 
 " Philippe Broyon is a Swiss, and the first white 
 man who has gone into the interior to trade. Mir- 
 ambo has sworn eternal friendship with him, and 
 given him his daughter as wife. I have already 
 obtained much valuable, because reliable, information 
 from him. It is owing to him that Mirambo sent to 
 our party to say he would let them pass in peace, and 
 would also be friendly to our mission. Next to 
 Uganda, Urambo is the greatest power in Central 
 Africa." 
 
 "Zanzibar, -i^oth March, 1877. 
 
 " I am rather shaky just now. I have had a rather 
 bad month this time, as the African giant Mukun- 
 guru, or remittent fever, has at last attacked me, and 
 thrown me down three or four times. I am now re- 
 covering, all fever being gone ; but I have hard work to 
 get strength again. More than three weeks ago I fell
 
 STRANGE SLEEPING PLACES. 53 
 
 ill over at Sadani. The trouble of getting the cara- 
 van, which I have entrusted to Morton, fully ready and 
 started, proved just enough for me. At Sadani I was 
 carefully nursed by Broyon, who had just returned 
 from the heart of the continent with a large caravan 
 of ivory he had gained. I then came over to Zanzi- 
 bar in one of the Sultan's steamers, where a gentle- 
 man named Strecter, who came out last mail for 
 Mombasa, watched me carefully till Mr. Brown, of 
 Smith & Co., our agents, came and got me to his 
 house on the beach at Shangani Point. Here I am 
 near the doctor's house, and am in every way most 
 comfortable. Nothing could exceed the kindness 
 with which Mr. Brown has nursed me in the worst 
 stages of my fever. As for Dr. Ivobb, the Consular 
 doctor, he has been most unwearying in his attend- 
 ance, coming to see me late and early, three or four 
 times a day, and supplying me with medicines free, as 
 
 I am a missionary 
 
 ''April \oth. 
 
 " I am again well, thank God, and have become 
 quite indifferent as to the sort of accommodation 1 
 get. I have slept in all sorts of places — a cow-b\^re, a 
 sheep-cote, a straw hut not larger than a dog-kenncl, 
 a hen-house, and often in no house at all. So any- 
 thing suits me, provided I get a spot tolerably clear 
 of ants and mosquitoes. Of all the plagues of Kgypt, 
 none could have been worse than that of the black 
 ants ! "
 
 54 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 "Magudika, Useguha, East Africa, 
 
 "2SthMaj, 1877. 
 
 " ]\Iy present position is a village over forty miles 
 from the coast. I have got this length, and in fact a 
 good few miles further. I have had a deal of very 
 heavy cutting to do, and some ugly places to level ; 
 but with it all I have within the last month prepared 
 a clear wagon way for a distance of fifty miles. I 
 would have been much further on had not one very 
 awkward nullah taken me seven days to bridge 
 over. There is not over a foot of water in the nullah 
 at present ; but I found from the flood-marks that in 
 the inasika time a spate sweeps down it some twelve 
 feet deep and fifty feet broad. Many a stately tree 
 came down to form the girders, piers, and piles of 
 this the first engineering work on the future highway 
 to Central Africa ; and as the timber I used was hard 
 as iron, I hope it will long stand against the attacks 
 of white ants, and constitute, as it is already, a stand- 
 ing marvel in the eyes of all the Waschcn^i (natives) 
 who pass that way. There are many more nullahs 
 between the coast and the further point I have cut to, 
 •but I have been able to get a fair way over them all 
 by merely sloping down the banks with pick and 
 spade, and in some cases by making also a long 
 detoiw. 
 
 " My working gang consists of only about forty men, 
 and these I have armed with the best American axes, 
 English hatchets, picks and spades and saws, all of 
 which tools are as new to them as they are to the
 
 A USEFUL GRINDSTONE. 55 
 
 natives of the villages we pass through. A donkey's 
 load of large iron nails I have taken with me, and 
 plenty of hammers to drive them in, but the wood is, as 
 a rule, too hard for the iron to enter — an emergency I 
 had foreseen and provided against by supplying myself 
 with a large stock of strong rope of cocoa-nut fibre. 
 One of the tools I brought with me from England 
 proves more serviceable than all the rest together, 
 though its use may be called a secondary one. It is 
 merely a two-foot grindstone, which I have mounted 
 on a wooden frame, and every evening we return from 
 work in time, the edges of the tools are applied to 
 the face of this wonderful machine, while the villagers 
 crowd around as anxiously gazing on as little Toddy 
 ever did when he ' wanted to see the wheels go 
 wound.' 
 
 " The dense and thorny jungles, of which I have 
 had already a collective length of nearly a couple of 
 English miles, presented a resistance quite peculiar 
 to themselves. They form chiefly a growth of 
 underwood and climbing plants, which have sprung 
 up on the site where a fine primeval forest once stood. 
 What has become of these forests it is hard to sa\'. 
 Remnants of stumps seem to indicate that they were 
 cut down by a previous generation of savages, prob- 
 ably to make way for the growing of corn, win'cli the}- 
 sow only on the most fertile patches; and the villages 
 in their vicinity having been destroyed by war or 
 other causes, the ground was left to nature's hand, 
 and she has indeed shown me what she can produce
 
 ON THE KOAD. 
 
 when left to work her will. Imagine a forest of lofty, 
 slender trees, with a cop between of thorny creepers, 
 so dense below that a cat could scarcely creep along, 
 and branched and intertwined above like green, un- 
 ravelled hemp. The line of the road through it is 
 a path wriggling right and left, as if it had followed 
 the trail of a reptile, and almost losing itself here and 
 there, where the creeping wild vine and thorny acacia 
 have encroached upon it. Caravans from the coast 
 to Unyanycmbe, Uganda, Ujiji, and from these places 
 to the coast, have passed and repassed such impedi- 
 ments on the way ; yet, though the pagazi's clothes 
 were torn, and the bales had at times to be dragged 
 along the ground, no one ever ventured to cut a 
 branch or a twig to let the daylight in, where the 
 light that was, only served to make the darkness 
 visible. 
 
 " I had come up this road before, so I knew what 
 was before mc, and now the densest jungle has yielded 
 to the slashing strokes of a score of Snider sword 
 bayonets, which I have given my best men to carry. 
 
 " In the more open country the men are as thinly 
 distributed as the trees on the wa3'side, and sometimes 
 five or six are far behind felling a huge baobab that 
 tries the temper of the tools. But on entering a 
 jungle all hands are at work together, and, as is their 
 custom, they stir each other on by chanting a chorus 
 of a icw words with little or no meaning. One of 
 their choruses, extemporized, I guess, for my par- 
 ticular edification, runs thus : —
 
 A ROAD FOR ENGLISHMEN. 57 
 
 Ell, eh, msungu mbaya 
 Tu katti miti, 
 Tu endc Ulaya ;' 
 
 which I may paraphrase: 'Oh, is not the white man 
 very bad to be cutting down the trees to make a way 
 for Encfh'shmen to come ? ' Through the densest 
 thickets, where before I could not pull my donkeys 
 through, I have now made a clear way broad enough 
 to allow the largest bullock wagons to pass each 
 other at any point. 
 
 "Passers-by open their mouth as well as their eyes 
 at the iijia kubiva (big road) of the white man ; and 
 when they return to talk together at evening in their 
 tcmbcs, the story of the * big road ' is told, and, as is 
 always the case in Africa, with enormous exaggera- 
 tions. With the chief men, however, the story does 
 not always go well down ; and the report is being 
 widely spread that the English are coming to take 
 possession of the country, an alarm which I hope will 
 die a natural and speedy death. The chief of the 
 village near which I made the bridge took a more 
 practical view of the matter, and told me one da}-, 
 with all the command his dirty visage could assume, 
 that I must pay him a hundred dollars for cutting 
 down the trees in his territory, I told him that it was 
 he who should give me the hundred dollars, to pay 
 my men for making a bridge which he and his people 
 could not make, but which, as soon as I was gone, 
 he would call his own, and probably levy Jioiiga, or 
 tribute, from these caravans which cared to pay him.
 
 58 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 " It is the enterprising Church Missionary Society 
 that has projected and is paying the whole expense of 
 these first steps in the way of making a highway into 
 inner Africa ; and the matter is much to their credit. 
 As a German friend of mine (Rev. G. Palmer Davies, 
 Director of the British and Foreign Bible Society, 
 Berlin) wrote me recently, referring to the grand plans 
 of the King of the Belgians, of the geographers and 
 explorers whom he gathered around him in Brussels : 
 ' While scientific and commercial men are talking, 
 the servants of the Cross are acting ; and while the 
 former arc fixing in words the problems to be solved, 
 the latter are quietly solving them.' 
 
 "We arc Christian missionaries, and our work is 
 the spread of the Gospel to the very ends of the earth. 
 Where we do not already find a way by which to 
 enter unknown lands, we make a way ourselves. In 
 doing so we make a way for others to follow after — 
 a way for the trader to enter with his wares, and to 
 return a richer man. Such being the case, it would 
 be but fair for us to expect that such purely secular 
 work as road-m^aking be taken up and vigorously 
 executed by those who will the most largely profit by 
 the undertaking, instead of leaving it to be done at 
 the expense of the Church. Yet what I have quoted 
 above from Mr. Davies will ever continue to be true, 
 and no less so will be what he adds : ' But I expect 
 more from the C.M.S. in their field, and from the 
 London INIission on Tanganyika, and the Scotch 
 Mission on the Nyassa, than from the International
 
 MAKES ''BROTnERHOOn:' 50 
 
 Society for some time to come. What they do will 
 doubtless be accompanied by a grand flourish of 
 trumpets, and may thus attract more general atten- 
 tion. Their Agamemnons will certainly find scribes 
 enough to make them known. Your Agamemnons 
 will also, I trust, not fail in such ; but of one thing 
 I am sure, your names will stand high in the roll 
 of God, for you go forth as His and His alone.' 
 
 " Many thanks for the Daily TclcgrapJis with Stan- 
 ley's letters. They are indeed interesting and valu- 
 able to me. He will now be the man of the year, not- 
 withstanding all his enemies say. Plow little charity 
 there is in human nature, to try to pull down a man's 
 successful work. Tyndall's address in Glasgow also 
 reached me last mail. I have read it through, and 
 know it will be of use to me in various ways. 
 
 " I told you last month that I had got a horse from 
 the Sultan of Zanzibar. But I have not long enjoyed 
 the use of it, for ten days ago it took suddenly ill — 
 of what I do not know — and in a icw hours it died. 
 Bwana Heri, the chief of Sadani, has therefore given 
 me his own riding donkc}', and it saves me many a 
 mile on foot. I have become friends with all the 
 chiefs on the road, and they, every one, have pro- 
 moted me to the rank of their ' brother,' which means 
 a great deal in East Africa. In the case of big 
 chiefs it is of great value. Stanley is brother to 
 Mtesa and Mirambo, and that has aided him much."
 
 6o ON THE ROAD. 
 
 " C.M.S. Camt, near Kikwago, 
 
 " Christmas Day, 1S77. 
 
 "You should see me every day with clothes be- 
 spattered with mud, and hands blaek like a sweep's, 
 catching the spokes of the wheel every now and then 
 as they get into holes, and yelling at the top of my 
 voice to the oxen, till the forest resounds again. So 
 much yelling have I to do in the six hours we march 
 per day, that when I get into camp I am al\va}^s 
 quite hoarse. It is good for one's lungs to have to 
 bdloiv a good deal. A team of twenty-six oxen, 
 frequently spanned on in front of one cart, does need 
 good shouting and lashing to get them to pull to- 
 gether. It is not walking with my umbrella or riding 
 on a donkey behind a cart, but ever getting some one 
 or other or all the carts out of this difficulty and the 
 next. My men are far from skilful in the art of 
 driving long teams through the forest, and are con- 
 stantly bringing the carts against trees, or stones, or 
 into holes, not un frequently upsetting them altogether. 
 Supposing you were a passenger in one of our vehicles, 
 you would come by a i^w rail(less)way accidents 
 almost every day. It is hopeless, for instance, in try- 
 ing to cross a river, to find, say one ox lie down, 
 another break loose and run away, several more with 
 their faces to the wagon, where their tails should be, 
 and so on. One's patience gets sorely tried by such 
 occurrences, but the only v/ay is to patiently arrange 
 all and try again. 
 
 " Sitting on the ground in the bush by night, and
 
 II.ISTENS TO STAY REVENGE. 6l 
 
 writing in a hurry, by the aid of a dim ship's lantern, 
 allows me to produce a most miserable scribble. I 
 am besides all the wl:ile tormented with countless 
 mosquitoes and other insects ; while the hyenas are 
 smelling the oxen, and growling all about. I have 
 my Winchester repeater lying by me, ready for any 
 friendly visit from such denizens of the forest." 
 
 Mackay now hears of the murder of Lieut. Smith 
 and Mr. O'Neill, and hurries on with all speed to the 
 scene of the disaster, to prevent further bloodshed. 
 Courageously visits the murderous king of Ukerewe, 
 and makes blood-brotherhood with him. Finds that 
 everywhere "drink is the curse of Africa." Is ship- 
 wrecked off Buzongora, and pays a beautiful tribute 
 to Stanley, of whom he was ever a great admirer. 
 
 "Mpwapwa, March, 1S7S. 
 " I wrote last month what information I had as to 
 the death of our two excellent fellows at Ukerewe. 
 Of course I have not received any more informa- 
 tion, but I hope soon to meet Morton, who I hear 
 is on the way down, in charge of a caravan of ivory 
 belonging to Mirambo, and he in all probability has 
 heard more particulars than have yet come to hand. 
 At all events, the statement that he thinks Lkonge, 
 the chief of Ukerewe, should be punished, and that 
 Mtesa intended sending a fleet of 1,000 canoes to do 
 so, makes me feel that I cannot be too soon on the 
 spot to do what I can to stop any such action being 
 taken. Revenge would not help the matter in the
 
 62 OV THE ROAD. 
 
 slightest — at any rate, for the good of the mission. 
 The British Government could not do anything 
 except at a cost of millions of money and many lives. 
 I mean to get outsiders, like Mtesa and Mirambo and 
 the Arabs, who seem all to be vowing vengeance 
 against Lkonge, first to rest quiet, and then to try, by 
 deputation or otherwise, to make peace and renew 
 terms of friendship with the king of Ukerewe. 
 
 "The matter will be one requiring careful diplo- 
 macy ; but I hope to be guided rightly by Him who 
 alone rules over all, and who moves the heart of 
 kings as He sees best for His own glory. 
 
 "The martyrdom of our two brothers may be the 
 beginning of brighter days for the whole of the lands 
 round Lake Victoria Nyanza ; but it will, I fear, be 
 at the cost of many lives and much money that any 
 real benefit will, even in time, be conferred on this 
 great continent, which seems to withstand the most 
 determined attempts to do it good." 
 
 'M/r//, 1S78. 
 
 "The great chief of Mvumi was afraid to allow the 
 white man to sleep in his tembc, in case I should 
 have some designs on his valuable life ; but the small 
 chief at Mtamburu invited me cordially to share his 
 filthy hut, which was one and the same with the cow- 
 byre and sheep-cote. I was only too glad to avail 
 myself even of such a hole ; for towards dark a band 
 of roving Wahehe turned up, and, after performing 
 a war-dance in front of the tembe, quietly demanded 
 an ox from the owner, which he, of course, had as
 
 A DOUBTFUL SALUTE. 63 
 
 quietly to give. From me they demanded something 
 small, I showed them the contents of a bale which 
 seemed to take their fancy, but when they saw it was 
 only some books and papers, they declined a gift 
 of that sort. A yard of merikani, strange to say, 
 satisfied them ; at least, on their chief receiving it, 
 they all got up, and drew themselves up in line, some 
 ten paces in front of where I was sitting on the ground 
 outside. They were each armed with a huge shield 
 of hide, painted white, red, and blue ; and their weapons 
 were spears — some half-dozen seemed behind each 
 shield — and bow and arrow. As they prepared to 
 salute in the form of a charge, it was impossible to 
 know if their action was hostile or friendly. To have 
 moved my hand towards my double-barrelled rifle, 
 lying by, would have led to instant bloodshed ; but 
 I sat unmoved, when, with spears in position, they 
 made a simultaneous spring, and kneeled behind 
 their huge shields in a semicircle close round me. A 
 moment they rested thus, and the next they laid 
 their shields face downwards, and their arms on the 
 top, and made obeisance in the politest fashion. No 
 united action on the part of trained soldiers could 
 have been more perfect, and I saluted them in return, 
 only glad that all this demonstration was mere play. 
 They then left, taking with them the ox, and, after 
 laying hands on several more cattle belonging to the 
 adjoining tembes, settled down in an old Wanyamwezi 
 camp near by. They gave us to understand that they 
 were waiting to be joined by a large number more
 
 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 of their tribe, when they were going away north to 
 Usukuma to fight and plunder. 
 
 " The heavy rain penetrated the flat, earth-covered 
 roof, and turned the place into a sea of liquid manure, 
 and thus I had to lie in misery till morning. 
 
 "I have been eating thick porridge of mioei'e^ and 
 sometimes intmna, which is rather more palatable, 
 ever since the thieves took a fancy to my small stock 
 of biscuit. Mzvere tastes like sawdust and ashes, but 
 that one gets even to like it in time, were there not 
 always a large per cent, of sand amongst the meal, 
 due probabl}' to the rude method of grinding the 
 grain. 
 
 " It is when one must live from day to day depen- 
 dent on what food one can buy on the road that one 
 learns to pray in earnest, ' Give us this day our daily 
 bread.' A fowl is often to be had with the grain ; 
 but it is sometimes trying, after a long day's march, 
 to have first to look for food, then wait to have the 
 grain pounded and cooked, especially when one is 
 hungry. Firewood has to be found, and near villages, 
 that is generally scarce, while what can be called 
 drinking-water has to be fetched from a distance. 
 Breakfast and dinner must then generally run into 
 one meal, which, being eaten towards evening, serves 
 for supper also. 
 
 " But then there is the psalm, * The lion's young 
 may hungry be,* etc. ; and as that is true, it is also 
 true that I have never wanted any day yet, and feci 
 sure that I never will."
 
 BADLY COOKED FOOD. 65 
 
 "Uyui, 2nd May, 1878. 
 
 " From Mpwapwa to this took mc a whole month's 
 tramping. Very much of the road was through 
 marsh, the rainy season being just over, and many 
 days' wading was promotive of neither comfort nor 
 pleasure. Between eating coarse and badly' cocked 
 food and constant wettings, I had to halt for a day cr 
 two in the middle of a hundred miles jungle, to dose 
 myself, as I found that any amount of Dover's powder 
 and camphor was of no avail so long as I continued 
 marching. But rest gave nature fair play, and I soon 
 recovered, and made a determined resolution to eat 
 no more food unless I saw it well cooked first. Every 
 day porridge of mtama, or maize, and no alternative, 
 one would think tedious at best ; but it is when one 
 gets sick, and the stomach gets tender, and loathes 
 all food, that a iew ounces of wheatcn flour would be 
 welcome, and would be of priceless value. But my 
 small stock of biscuit had been stolen, as I told you 
 before, and rice was nowhere to be had. Telling my 
 boy a score of times to boil the porridge well, seemed 
 to no purpose. So I mixed thin gruel of the maiz,e 
 meal, and sat over the pot till it boiled itself into a 
 jelly. This I continued to do- day after day, and 
 saved my life. 
 
 " I do believe native food would suit Europeans 
 well enough if only properly cooked. But the natives 
 are too greedy to cook. The food must be nearly as 
 soon out of the pot as into it. Nor are they by any 
 means exempt from evil consequences from their 
 
 A. ]M. M. 5
 
 66 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 gluttony. Every day my stock of medicine is sadly 
 taxed by hosts of invalids, whose chief ailments are 
 dyspepsia and its attendants. 
 
 " Here I am the guest of Said bin Salim, Governor 
 of Unyanyenibe. Three months ago this old man 
 was deposed without reason or notice, and has had to 
 take refuge here in Uyui, some seven hours from 
 Taborah. He says the reason of his ejectment from 
 office is, that he has recently entertained several 
 Englishmen in his house ; and the other Arabs are 
 jealous accordingly. They say that Englishmen only 
 come to stop their trade in slaves, and desire to 
 thwart our progress to the utmost in consequence ; 
 while Said bin Salim is willing, to some extent at 
 least, to act up to the terms of our treaty with the 
 Sultan of Zanzibar. As yet no v;ord has come from 
 the coast, as to whether Said Burgash will stand by 
 his old non-slaving governor, or bolster up the new 
 Liwaleh — Abdullah bin Nassib, commonly called 
 Kisessa. 
 
 " I could write many pages of what I have seen in 
 the last month, and how I have found enormous 
 tracts of country but recently devastated by merciless 
 slavers. 
 
 " Arab caravans with tons of ivory ^ are moving 
 
 1 a jTygi-y tiisk, piece, and scrap of ivory in the possession of 
 an Arab trader has been steeped and dyed in blood. Every 
 pound weight has cost the life of a man, woman, or child ; for 
 every five pounds a hut has been burned ; for every two tusks a 
 whole villnge has been destroyed ; every twenty tusks have been
 
 IVORY, BLACK AND WHITE. 67 
 
 down to the coast now ; and each has, as a supple- 
 ment, a string of Hvhig Httle ones trotting on with 
 necks Hnked together, to be disposed of to the highest 
 bidder at the coast. 
 
 " I hear that ]\Ishamgama, Mtagamoyo, and others, 
 are vigorously prosecuting their slaving raids at 
 Manyema, while the traffic seems to go on unabated 
 here all around. 
 
 " But what is the use of writing about such matters } 
 There are a few gunboats on the coast, and our naval 
 nation rests there satisfied. But there is an ignorance 
 of doings here which is not bliss. But will wise 
 England remove the curse .'' " 
 
 " Kagei, Victoria Nyaxza, 
 
 ''^thjitly, 1S7S. 
 " I should like much to write a detailed account of 
 my time since I turned my back on that most un- 
 pleasant of places — Unyanyembe, but time forbids. I 
 am sending, of course, to the C.iM.S. a report of the 
 most important part — my visit to the island of Uke- 
 
 obtained at the price of a district, with all its people, villages, 
 and plantations. It is simply incredible that, because ivory is 
 required for ornaments or billiard games, the rich heart of 
 Africa should be laid waste at this late year of the nineteenth 
 century, signalized, as it has been, by so much advance, that 
 populations, tribes, and nations should be utterly destroyed. 
 Whom, after all, does this bloody seizure of ivory enrich ? Only 
 a few dozens of half-castes, Arab and negro, who, if due justice 
 were dealt to them, should be made to sweat out the remainder 
 of their piratical lives in the severest penal servitude." — " In 
 Darkest Africa."
 
 68 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 rewe, where Lieut. Smith and O'Neill were murdered 
 so recently ; and probably you will see some notes 
 of it in the monthly Intelligencer. 
 
 " By-and-by, when my journal reaches London, you 
 will get some reading that may a little interest you. 
 
 " It is but fair that the good friends of Central 
 Africa should receive at least some account of the 
 work they have at heart, and for which they give of 
 their means ; and I do endeavour to keep a note from 
 day to day of our progress, that I may from time to 
 time send to headquarters a short report ; but es- 
 sential as that part of my work is, it is nevertheless 
 the one I always feel most reluctance in fulfilling. 
 Speke used to say he would rather walk across Africa 
 again than write an account of his first journey. For 
 myself, I would rather travel a hundred days in this 
 unsettled country than set my mind to report the 
 events of one single day. The reason may be lazi- 
 ness, nevertheless the fact is such. 
 
 " It was on the evening of Thursday, 13th June, 
 that I reached the village of Kagei, on the southern 
 shore of the famous Nyanza. From Unyanyembe 
 I had tramped some 250 miles in a northerly direc- 
 tion, but in a line very far from true to the meridian. 
 One day east, another west, and then a few days due 
 north, we held on our way through sandy deserts, 
 across swampy plains, and over miles of maize and 
 plantations of pumpkins, making for friendly tribes 
 and avoiding the more hostile ones, as a mariner 
 would steer his course in a dangerous and rocky
 
 THE NYANZA AT LAST. 6g 
 
 channel. But so unsettled is the country, and so little 
 obedience to the sixth and eighth commandments in 
 general prevails among the barbarous tribes, that 
 even by picking our steps we could not help at times 
 falling into the hands of these truly uncircumcised 
 Philistines — the Wanyamwezi. 
 
 " On the evening before reaching Kagei, I had 
 reached a point from which a first glimpse could be 
 had of the noble lahe. As eagerly as ever the ten 
 thousand Greeks shouted QdXaaaa ! QdXaaaa ! in the 
 immortal Anabasis of Xenophon, did I gaze on the 
 silvery sea, and thank God that now I was near the 
 Nyanza at last. For had I not been two years and 
 more on the way from the coast to Kagei, and now an 
 end to miserable marching was come, at least for a 
 time ? Had not my companions succumbed to the 
 climate one by one, and even reinforcements failed ? 
 now I was here alone to hold the fort till better days, 
 should dawn, 
 
 " Our store here has been in the hands of servants 
 — freed slaves and runaway slaves of Zanzibar — who 
 have plundered from our stuff all they considered 
 valuable, and what they have left they have sadly 
 spoiled. Confusion worse confounded was the state 
 I found everything in. 
 
 "In a huge hut, lent us by Kaduma, the chief of 
 tlie-place, I found all that was lefc of the valuable 
 property of the expedition, except such articles as 
 have been already taken to Uganda. Piled in heaps 
 promiscuously lay boiler shells and books, cowrie
 
 70 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 shells and candle moulds, papers and piston rods, 
 steam pipes and stationery, printers' types and tent 
 poles, carbolic acid, cartridges, and chloroform, saws 
 and garden seeds, travelling trunks and toys, tins of 
 bacon and bags of clothes, pumps and ploughs, port- 
 able forges and boiler fittings — here a cylinder, there 
 its sole plate, here a cranlc-shaft, there an eccentric. 
 Despair might well be found written on my features 
 as I sat down after my two years' march to rest and 
 look round on the terrible arrangement. 
 
 " Ten days' hard work from dawn to dusk made me 
 give a look round the same hut with much greater 
 satisfaction than when I first gazed on the scene. 
 The rain-gauge is no more full of rats' dung, nor does 
 a boilcr-shell contain books. The engines for our 
 steamer stand complete to the last screw, the boiler is 
 ready to be riveted, tools and types have separate 
 boxes, and rust and dust are thrown out of doors. It 
 seems to me more than a miracle how much remains 
 entire of the really admirable outfit which the able 
 directors of the C.M.S. supplied us with when we left 
 England. It reflects the very highest credit on Lieut. 
 Smith, and those who travelled with him, that, amid 
 the most trying difficulties of every step of so long a 
 journey, they were successful in bringing here so many 
 articles of value. When it is remembered that every 
 article had to be cut and broken up into parts at 
 the coast, so that nothing should exceed a man's 
 load of 70 lbs., and now I find almost everything 
 complete, even to its smallest belonging, after a
 
 REPAIRS THE ''DAISY." 71 
 
 tedious transport of over 700 miles, we may so far 
 consider the expedition a success, and the blessing 
 on our efforts to this point an earnest of the much 
 more we hope to follow. 
 
 " The Daisy, which was brought in segments from 
 the coast, but which arrived much shattered, was re- 
 built by Mr. O'Neill, and has already been of great 
 service on the lake. But her days are almost done. 
 I find her in sad condition — not a plank sound. What 
 the teeth of the hippopotamus spared in the survey of 
 Jordan's nullah, the rays of the sun have split, and the 
 parts sheltered from them have fallen a prey to 
 another formidable foe — white ants, as the vessel lay 
 on the beach at Kagei. 
 
 " Day after day I have been patching the planls 
 and caulking the leaks, sprawling on the grour.d 
 below the vessel, with hammer and chisel in hand, 
 and crowds of naked natives eagerly gazing at the 
 white man mending his big canoe. Plates of copper 
 and sheets of zinc and lead, with nails and screws and 
 cotton wool (which, by the way, grows here plenti- 
 fully in the wild state, while even a little is cultivated 
 by the natives to make strings for their beads) ; these, 
 with oil, will, I hope, however, enable me to make a 
 safe passage to Uganda, and still leave us in command 
 of this mighty inland sea till more of us are together, 
 and we get time to build a stronger, better boat, for 
 which we have the necessary steam power. 
 
 "The people of Kagei are JVcJSukujna, the largest 
 branch of the great race of Wanyainzvezi, and their
 
 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 language but a dialect of that spoken by the people 
 all around Unyanyembe. I like the people here 
 much. They arc all friends with me, and I am friends 
 with all. When they see the turning lathe at work, 
 or find me melting down the fat of an ox and turning 
 out beautiful candles, their wonder knows no bounds. 
 Of an incongruous mass of bars of iron and brass and 
 bolts, they could not guess the use of, they have seen 
 me fit together one and another complete steam 
 engine, and various other things which looked so 
 marvellous, that again and again I have heard the 
 lemark that white men came from heaven. Then I 
 teach this and that more intelligent fellow the use of 
 \-arious things, and try to impress upon all a truth I 
 find them very slow to believe — that they themselves 
 can easily learn to know everything that white men 
 know. I tell them that we were once naked savages 
 like themselves, and carried bows and arrows and 
 spears ; but when God began to teach us, we became 
 civilized. 
 
 " Round comes Sunday, when tools are dropped, 
 and the reason asked ' Why .'' ' I have my Bible, and 
 tell that it is God's book, and He commanded the 
 day of rest. Many know a little of Suahili, which is, 
 in fact, closely allied to their own language ; and in 
 that tongue I find many an opportunity to teach the 
 simplest truths of revealed religion, especially how 
 God has come down among men. This ' great mys- 
 tery of godliness ' is the astounding story to them ; 
 and many I find eager to learn to read that they may
 
 LOVE OF TEACHING. 73 
 
 know the book which I say God Himself wrote for 
 men. 
 
 " With the cliildren I am on the best of terms. At 
 all times I find myself surrounded by a host of little 
 boys, eager to help me in anything, it being a special 
 honour to be asked to bring a live coal to light my 
 pipe. 
 
 " More than ever I am longing for the day when 
 the necessary rough work of pioneering will be done, 
 and I can settle down to spend every day in teaching 
 the little ones. I cannot think the day far distant 
 when I shall see my daily school for these children, 
 and watch them grow in wisdom and understanding, 
 and in the fear of God. Such a class I dream I see 
 a nucleus of a training college, which shall furnish 
 manifold seeds of life in place of the units which we 
 white men must ever be in Africa. Of these will 
 some be trained for the work of the ministry, and the 
 day arrive when a Msukuma will be Bishop of Un- 
 yamwezi, and a Muganda primate of all Nyanza ! 
 
 "But much soil must first be turned up, and a deal 
 of what may be called dirty work done, and many 
 weeds rooted out before the good seed be cast in 
 Vvith success, and then we know for certain that some 
 will bring forth a hundred-fold. If we sow before we 
 plough, we sow by the wayside, or on stones, or 
 among thorns ; and the devil, the flesh, and the world 
 are, here as everywhere else, ready respectively to 
 deny a harvest. 
 
 " Lieut. Smith v/rotc me from Kagci, on Dec. 5th,
 
 74 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 that he and O'Neill were starting that day for 
 Uganda, and this is the last news I have from my 
 good and brave brethren. What befell them after 
 that we know only from such of their men as survived 
 the fatal battle, which seems to have followed only a 
 few days after. Somehow or other they had to go to 
 Ukerevve again, and had sent away the boat with 
 their interpreter. While waiting his return, Lkonge 
 appeared with a large force and attacked Songoro, an 
 Arab (or rather half-caste) slaver, who had a lot of 
 slaves with him. Songoro, on being wounded, ran 
 for protection to where Lieut. Smith and O'Neill were 
 standing with only some half-dozen men. Lkonge 
 demanded them to give up the Arab, and on their 
 refusal he and his warriors fell on our party and slew 
 them all. Songoro also and twenty-three of his men 
 were slain. 
 
 " Thus ended this fearful massacre, the cause of 
 which was a heathen chief's determination to revenge 
 the double-dealings of a Mohammedan slave-dealer. 
 The two servants of the Cross who were slain in his 
 defence fell in the discharge of duty as men to a 
 fellow-man, and in obedience to the Christian law of 
 love. But right is right, since God is God; and the 
 Lord will be avenged of the death of His servants, 
 whose blood cries from the ground to the Church of 
 Christ to speedily repair the breaches in our number, 
 and send many men to Ukerewe to teach the mur- 
 derers the way of the forgiveness of sins. It is God 
 alone who can turn good out of evil ; and though in
 
 A PEACEMAKER. 75 
 
 this matter we think He has moved in a mysterious 
 way, and gathered a dark cloud over our hopes in the 
 dawn of Christian days on Victoria Nyanza, yet after 
 sorrow joy shall come, and the gloomy cloud will 
 break with blessings on the heads of the dark heathen 
 of Africa. 
 
 "At Unyanyembe and Uyui, I of course found one 
 prevailing feeling among the Arabs — of revenge, not 
 for the death of the Englishmen, of which I believe 
 they are very glad, but for that of Songoro. While 
 they vowed vengeance on the head of Lkonge, the 
 king of Ukerewe, they were either too cowardly or 
 too weak in arms to execute their purpose. Surprised, 
 indeed, they were when I told them that I meant no 
 revenge on Lkonge's head, that I was a man of Isa 
 (Jesus), whose followers, unlike those of Islam, did not 
 avenge v/rongs, but rather forgave them. 
 
 " By the Ukerewe men whom I found here, I sent 
 a message to their king saying I had arrived at Kagei, 
 and should be glad of a conference with him ; that it" 
 he was afraid to come to me, I was not afraid to go 
 to him. If he feared I would shoot him, I should leave 
 my rifle and revolver here; and instead of taking my 
 own boat and servants, of whojn he might be afraid, 
 I asked him to send a good canoe with his own men 
 for me. 
 
 " After a week or so the canoe arrived with a depu- 
 tation, consisting of the king's uncle, who is prime 
 minister, and a dozen of Lkonge's head men. They 
 begged me to go to Ukerewe with them. To test
 
 76 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 their candour, I asked that the head of the deputation 
 be detained here as security for my Hfe till I should 
 return safely. But he was too important a councillor 
 to be absent in my talk with the king. I then asked 
 that not less than three of the others should remain 
 as hostages. This was at last, after much talk, agreed 
 to. As from this I saw they meant me no evil, I said 
 I would not demand the pledge ; so I embarked in 
 their canoe, and we all set off gladly together. IMy 
 own men strongly urged me not to risk my life by 
 going to Ukerewe, as they were sure Lkonge meant 
 to kill me, as he had done Lieut. Smith and O'Neill. 
 When they saw, however, that I was determined to 
 go, they begged me not to ask them to accompany 
 me, as they were too afraid to go. I told them that 
 I had not the slightest intention of taking them, say- 
 ing I knew they were cowards ; and if an attempt were 
 made to kill me, they would all run away and leave 
 me to my fate. My main reason, however, I did not 
 give them ; viz., that I did not wish to go with any 
 show of force. 
 
 " Putting my house in order in case of accident, and 
 taking in my pocket a icw doses of quinine for fever, 
 Dover's powder for dysentery, and some sulphate of 
 zinc in case I should require an emetic, Lkonge being 
 known as a poisoner, I left for Ukerewe as I have 
 said, leaving my arms behind. Kaduma sent with 
 me a man who knew the language of Ukerewe well, 
 and a little Suahili — my language ; and he acted as 
 interpreter throughout.
 
 LKONGE'S STORY. 77 
 
 " With Lkonge I had repeated meetings — on the 
 whole of a satisfactory nature, I learned — what I had 
 gathered in scraps from various quarters before, and 
 had reason to believe — that he and his people had no 
 desire to kill the white men. The Arab Songoro had 
 played a false part with the king, and was arrested 
 for debt. In trying to make his escape with Smith 
 and O'Neill, he was attacked by Lkonge's men, when 
 he shot two of them. The king had given orders to 
 bring the white men to his house, that no harm should 
 come to them in the fight with Songoro. Either they 
 did not comprehend the intention of the men who 
 came to take them to Lkonge's, or they suspected 
 the king's orders conveyed treachery. At all events 
 Songoro persuaded them to fight with and for him ; 
 and Mr. O'Neill especially did dreadful damage with 
 his rifle, the Wakerewe themselves confessing that he 
 killed ten men and wounded more than thirty others, 
 who are to this day not recovered. At length ammu- 
 nition failed, and their boat having gone away con- 
 trary to orders, no means was left of escape, and my 
 dear friends fell. 
 
 " I told the king I believed his story, and had come 
 a long way to hear it, that I might write it down and 
 send the news to England. I said I could not make 
 any promise as to what the Queen of England would 
 say or do, but that for myself I was come in a friendly 
 way. I asked him if he wished me to bring two of 
 my white brothers to his island to teach his people 
 to read and write and know the Word of God. He
 
 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 begged me to do so, asking if God had come down 
 amongst us. I told him He had, and that we would 
 teach him what God taught us. But I warned him a 
 second time not to mix up white men with Arabs, 
 lest they might get killed, and our Queen might send 
 a few field-pieces against him, and he would lose, not 
 only his houses, but his head also. I told him the 
 terrible tale of Abyssinia and Ashantee, and was 
 struck with the very attentive ear he gave to my 
 narrative (he understands a little Suahili himself). 
 
 " Wy stay ended by my giving him a present of a 
 dressing-gown, and our slaying a goat between us, 
 thereby sealing the African bond of blood brother- 
 hood. 
 
 " All the time I was away I lived on the king's 
 bounteous hospitality; and after a nine days' absence 
 I returned here, much to the shame and confusion of 
 my unfaithful followers, and was greeted on landing 
 with universal shouts of joy on the part of the natives, 
 the women dancing madly on the beach, foremost 
 among them being the head wife of Prince Kaduma, 
 arrayed, specially for the occasion, with so great a 
 load of beads that I could but wonder how she could 
 dance at all. 
 
 " Poor old Kaduma himself was holding a high day 
 \\\\.\\ ponibe (native beer), and made the occasion one 
 on which to stay longer over his pot than usual. 
 
 " Oh, how often will I enter in my journal, as I pass 
 through many tribes, 'Drink is the curse of Africa.' 
 Useguha, Usagara, Ugogo, Unyamwezi, Usukuma
 
 DRINK, THE CURSE OF AFRICA. 79 
 
 Ukerewe, and Uganda too — go where you will, you 
 will find every week, and, when grain is plentiful, 
 every night, every man, woman, and child, even to 
 sucking infants, are reeling with the effects of alcohol. 
 On this account chiefly I became a teetotaler on 
 leaving the coast, and have continued so ever since. 
 I believe also that abstinence is the true secret of 
 continued and unimpaired health in the tropics. 
 
 " Who wishes to introduce civilization into Africa } 
 Let a sine qua non of the enterprise be, that its mem- 
 bers be total abstainers. The West Coast is ruined 
 with rum ; it is killing the Kaffir in the South ; and 
 even on the East Coast, at Zanzibar, a vile liquor is 
 distilled from the sugar-cane at Kokoto-ni, that is 
 retailed by every Hindu, Banyan, and Goa merchant 
 in all the Coast towns, to the destruction of the Sua- 
 hili race. 
 
 "The Wanika tap the cocoa-nut tree and sip its 
 juice with straws, till every village I passed through, 
 even in early morning, seemed a pandemonium. In- 
 land the grains are used to produce the ferment. 
 Jllataina, or panicum, is the general malt ; but failing 
 that, Indian corn, and a small millet called viavcrc, 
 are called into requisition, the strength being often 
 increased by the addition of honey. On the shores 
 of Nyanza plantains are plentiful, and from them a 
 wine is made, which causes king and people to meet 
 on the low level of intoxication. 
 
 "I cannot say how long I shall be detained in 
 Uganda ; but I hope in less than a month to be on the
 
 8o ON THE ROAD. 
 
 way back to Uyui, to meet the three Englishmen who 
 are, I expect, by this time well on the way inland to 
 join our mission. But it is day by day in Central 
 Africa ; and to make plans far ahead generally means 
 to have them overturned. 
 
 " At Uyui, last of all, died my faithful companion 
 in all trials, ' Bobby.' Of our other dogs I used to 
 say, none was faithful to his master but Bobby." 
 
 " Faithful among the faithless only he was found." 
 
 "Kagei, Victoria Nyanza, 
 
 ''A,th Aug., 1878. 
 " Here I am keeping watch at the southern end 
 of the lake. Last full moon I hoped to have 
 ventured on my first voyage across the pathless 
 Nyanza, but God ordained otherwise; for just then 
 I was seized with a violent attack of remittent fever, 
 followed by many days' chronic diarrhoea — my old 
 enemy. Unfortunately I had no opiates to effect a 
 cure, while the nauseous remedy for dysentery — • 
 ipecacuanha — failed in this case. The Daisy lay on 
 the beach with repairs half finished, nearly every 
 joint unsound, and her planks presenting fresh rents 
 every day under the terrible sun. My men were 
 helpless in the way of repairing the vessel ; and my 
 hope of getting away from here seemed entirely shut 
 off, as sickness reduced me to the strength of an 
 infant. At length I resorted to a native cure — a 
 solution of tamarinds — which by God's blessing set 
 me on my legs again, and I recommenced work.
 
 LAUNCHES THE "DAISY." 8i 
 
 " We launched the Daisy, but she proved as leaky 
 as a sieve, in spite of all my patching ; while daily 
 gales and thunderstorms, following the solstice, ren- 
 dered venturing to sea for the time out of the ques- 
 tion. I therefore uncoupled the aft section, which 
 was most faulty, anchored the other well out in deep 
 water, and got my friendly natives to carry the com- 
 partment up into the village, where, under the shade 
 of a beautiful large fig-tree, I have subjected the 
 vessel to a thorough repair, putting in new planks, 
 and otherwise overhauling the whole. But no wood 
 was to be found, there being not a tree in the whole 
 vicinity, except a few fig and banana trees in the 
 village. I got, however, a few logs belonging to the 
 dhow which unfortunately was wrecked last year 
 near this on her maiden trip from Ukercwe. But 
 these had to be sawn into boards — a no trifling task. 
 I fitted up a pit-saw and set to work ; but the heavy 
 end of the operation had to fall on myself, and I had 
 little strength for it, as my men have no idea of 
 straight, either with head or hands. One learns to 
 make the most of a board when purchased at the 
 expense of one's own muscles. That is now over, 
 and many a copper nail driven in and well riveted, 
 and I hope to connect the part under repair with the 
 rest, and to put to sea in about a week. 
 
 *' But this lake, like the Sea of Galilee, is a sea of 
 storms. As a rule, the waters are calm ; but very 
 frequently, and with no warning from the barometer, 
 sudden gales spring up and lash the surface into 
 
 A. M. M. 6
 
 62 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 mighty waves. True, these gusts of wind seldom 
 last long ; but they will always be a source of 
 danger to us until we make a stronger craft, for the 
 Daisy is too frail at best to navigate such a lake. 
 Another source of danger lies in the countless num- 
 ber of rocks and islets, which stud the water like the 
 famous archipelago. To the bargain, I have no 
 knowledge of sailing, — I mean of handling sails ; nor 
 does any one here profess the slightest acquaintance 
 with the art. Among the natives a sail is unknown. 
 Canoes are everywhere, generally scooped out of the 
 solid trunk of a tree, and exceedingly unsafe, although 
 the Wasoga and Baganda build larger sizes by sew- 
 ing planks together with the fibre of the banana tree. 
 " It is a strange fact, and one which I believe is 
 true of every tribe in Central Africa, that the natives 
 are absolutely unacquainted with the art of fastening 
 two pieces of wood together, except by lashing. As 
 a rule, therefore, they prefer the laborious task of hew- 
 ing everything out of the solid. Oars are unknown. 
 Propulsion is by short paddles like large wooden 
 spoons. Much toil is therefore entailed, but only 
 what one might expect ; for no negro knows the use of 
 the lever, or of any other simple mechanical appliance 
 by which to save labour. In all operations, work is 
 done by the application of sheer brute force ; hence 
 the people arc everywhere worn out at an early age, 
 merely for want of contrivances. It is really astonish- 
 ing that an old man or old woman is scarcely ever to 
 be found. All are done up, or worked out, in middle
 
 TURNS SAILOR. 83 
 
 life, and then they die. It is not that they have no 
 metals with which to make tools. Iron is nearly every- 
 where, but only hoes and spears and arrow-heads are 
 made of it, and even these are manufactured with 
 very great labour, and by most primitive methods, 
 
 " I often think how idle are all the dreams of our 
 great savans, who would have us believe that man is 
 developed to the use of metals from only paws and 
 claws, through the stages of stone and brass and iron 
 in succession. Instruments of stone or bronze neither 
 are, nor ever were, used by any savage tribe in this 
 interior. They began with iron, and remain so to 
 this da\', with no vestige of progression, but traces, 
 on the contrar}', of retrogression. Let our so-called 
 philosophers, therefore, leave their kitchen iniddens, 
 and Jlints of tlie drift, and take a look around the 
 wider sphere of this big continent, and they will learn 
 to draw other conclusions from other premises. 
 
 "A little practice will, I hope, soon put me up in 
 the art of setting the sails ; but much I would give 
 for Lieut. Smith back among us, for here he was 
 iit home. As soon as our new men come, I hope to 
 knock together our steam boiler and engine and 
 circular saw, not here, but in Uganda, as we can get 
 wood there in plenty, and cut up timber for building 
 a new, strong vessel into which said boiler and engine 
 shall go, and then I hope we shall have command 
 of the great expanse of the Nyanza, and be no more 
 hindered in our work. A new and accurate chart of 
 the lake will then be a necessity to save shipwreclc ;
 
 84 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 but its production will be no longer a matter of 
 difficulty. You will observe that we have no means 
 of access to Uganda, except by crossing the lake 
 from here, as the Karague route is closed by the 
 hostile Watula, as effectually as the direct route from 
 Mombasa is closed by the wild Masai, or IVa/czuavi, 
 as they are called by the people hereabout. The 
 Nile route may in time be open ; but it will ever at 
 best be a tedious and dangerous journey that way, 
 although it may be considerably shortened by enter- 
 ing at Berber from the Red Sea. You will thus see 
 that a good vessel is to us of the first importance, 
 while without such we shall ever be prevented from 
 working among the many tribes settled all round 
 the lake. We hope soon to have stations, not only 
 in Uganda, but in Karague, Ukerewe, and here also ; 
 and for communication between these we must make 
 use of our water highway. 
 
 " The level of the Nyanza is a point never yet 
 settled, and never will be, as it is very varying. I 
 find the lake has risen some five or si.K feet above 
 what it was nine months ago, nor have I found any 
 sensible alteration in level during the two months I 
 have been here. You may well understand from that 
 fact that my previous statements about the terribly 
 wet season this year were not exaggerated. It must 
 have been no little rain that caused a reservoir as 
 large as Scotland to rise and umintain a rise of five 
 or six feet for months, notwithstanding all that passes 
 through the sluice at the Ripon Falls every day.
 
 TAKES OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 "Yesterday my work was a great centre of attraction 
 among the natives. I have no ship's compass, only 
 my pocket travelHng one, which would be rendered 
 useless by the oscillation of the vessel. Accordingly, 
 I set the turning - lathe in motion, and fabricated 
 gimbals on which the instrument can turn at ease. 
 As they see the card freely moving in the centre, it 
 looks as if floating, and the universal explanation is 
 that it is magical English water. 
 
 " I have not here my apparatus for determining 
 heights by the temperature of boiling water, as I 
 left it to come with our other goods. Speke and 
 Stanley have both determined the altitude, or rather 
 different altitudes, of the lake by the boiling point ; 
 but when my instrument arrives, I must do so 
 again. From more than 150 aneroid observations, 
 by two instruments by different makers, taken many 
 times each day over a period of two months, I find 
 by the one aneroid a mean of 3,652 feet, and by the 
 other 3,605 feet. From this must be deducted the 
 height of my hut above the lake, which is about 
 thirty feet. Unfortunately I have not here my obser- 
 vations taken at the coast with these instruments to 
 find their correction for sea level ; but when my 
 books arrive, I shall be able to say what must be 
 added to or subtracted from the above means. 
 
 " We have been successful in carrying three empty 
 barometer tubes here unbroken, and also a pot of 
 mercury. When I can find time I shall have them 
 mounted and filled, and then I shall be able to make
 
 86 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 more reliable observations than any which either boil- 
 ing thermometers or aneroids can give. Instruments 
 are so apt to be broken or damaged here that I am 
 always reluctant to take them out for observation. 
 My aneroids I succeeded in bringing safely here by 
 carrying them upon my person. Every instrument 
 which any of our men got to carry has sooner or later 
 been rendered useless. Burton's experience was 
 similar, and so was Speke's. As to watches, none of 
 our party has been able to carry a watch in going 
 order for any time. A final effort I made by enclos- 
 ing one in a bag of goatskin tightly sewed, and by 
 wrapping it up besides in a handkerchief, making a 
 point likewise of allowing it out of my possession on 
 no consideration, and I am happy to be able to have 
 succeeded in having now here an excellent lever in 
 good going order. If I get it as far as Uganda in 
 safety, I shall probably not remove it from there. 
 
 " How one must be jack-of-all-trades in a country 
 where no trade is known at all, it is difficult to 
 imagine unless on the spot.^ The natives, on the 
 other hand, expect the white man, and, what is most 
 trying, the same white man, to know everything, and 
 to be ready to do any kind of work. A {e\N liave 
 
 * " It is the practical Christian tutor who can teach people 
 how to become Christians, cure their diseases, construct dwell- 
 ings, understand and exemplify agriculture, turn his hand to 
 anything, like a sailor — this is the man who is wanted. Such a 
 one, if he can be found, would become the saviour of Africa." — 
 Sta7iley.
 
 Ttll^A'S DOCTOR. ti 
 
 guns — old flint locks — which are nearly always out of 
 repair, and these, of course, are brought to me to nnend. 
 That I am not able to make a fi sh-hook, or a needle, 
 or any such article at once on demand, is not for a 
 moment believed. It is, of course, simply that I ivill 
 not. Then sickness is ever rife, and many complaints 
 of long standing. Medicine must be given, whether I 
 understand the case or not ; otherwise I am pronounced 
 unkind and unmerciful. If a cure is effected, good 
 and well ; if the patient dies, it is unfortunate, but 
 natural enough, for such ignorant people to say that 
 my medicine was the cause of death. I therefore 
 never volunteer to give medicine, and consent to try 
 a cure only when sorely pressed to do so. One 
 great difficulty one has to contend with in such 
 cases is, that they always are impatient of recovery; 
 and if my medicine is not effective at once, then a 
 native cure is resorted to, which spoils the effect of 
 the proper remedy, and delays recovery further. 
 Funny notions they have of medicine. Unless nasty 
 to the taste, a drug is considered as of no value ; hence 
 there is no difficulty in getting them to quaff the 
 bitterest draughts. But charms are valued as potent, 
 even in the worst cases, and are always resorted to. 
 Still there is less of that sort of nonsense here than 
 I found nearer the coast. 
 
 "The Wasukuma have certain, perhaps I should say 
 uncertain, ideas of God; still they have notions in that 
 direction, although neither they nor any of the tribes 
 I have been among in East Africa mak'e or worship
 
 ON THE 7^0 AD. 
 
 idols. There is a strange contrast in this respect 
 between the East and West Coasts, for on the latter 
 idolatry is everywhere. Among the Waseguha and 
 Wasagara and Wadoi, all further east than this, small 
 huts or fetish houses are invariably erected at the 
 outside of every village to keep the evil spirits away ; 
 and ears of corn, shells, and often poinbe (native 
 beer) is placed in them to propitiate the gods. But 
 further inland, among the Wagogo, Wanyamwezi, 
 and tribes round the Nyanza, nothing of the sort is 
 ever seen. A system of divination is practised among 
 the Wagogo, something like the conjuring tricks of 
 fortune-telling by cards. They lay a number of small 
 pieces of wood in a hole in the ground, and the 
 medicine man, by producing various combinations of 
 these, two and three at a time, professes to foretell 
 events by this augury. I have seen no other savages 
 do so, but the Arabs continually practise an art not 
 very unsimilar. I found at Unyanyembe the grossest 
 superstition existing among the most enlightened 
 Arabs. Every day much paper was wasted with 
 divination. If a caravan was expected, the time of 
 its arrival was predicted by drawing at random a 
 series of lines of dots, not counting the number at 
 first, but afterwards counting them in pairs, when each 
 line was found to produce either an even or an odd 
 number. The evens and odds were then separately 
 combined as dots and dashes. Each combination 
 received a particular signification, and further mani- 
 pulation with the series produced a result believed
 
 HELVS HIGHWAY. 89 
 
 in devoutly as the answer of the oracle. When 
 paper was scarce, a board sprinkled with sand 
 served the purpose. Astrology, too, as foolish as 
 ever practised in the dark ages of Europe, still 
 leads a healthy life among the pious followers of the 
 false Prophet in Central Africa. These whitewashed 
 sepulchres, as all Arabs are, go daily through all the 
 prayers and other public performances of their blind 
 belief, yet one and all are guilty of daily acts of the 
 most outrageous description. It is the most devout 
 and pious who are the greatest rogues. It is these 
 who send their slaves to ravage and murder, and 
 bring back a booty of women and children from 
 among the helpless heathen. Even here they have 
 their emissaries carrying on the accursed traffic in 
 human flesh and blood ; and the caravan route to 
 Unyanyembe from here is still, as I find it ever has 
 been in the memory of men here living, no less than 
 hell's highway. 
 
 " Stanley predicted this as a thing of the future. 
 I find it past and present, and what steps are being 
 taken to prevent it in the luture also ? So far as 
 Zanzibar is concerned, I answer with certainty — 
 none. On every hand slaves are as openly bartered 
 as ivory : the one goes to the English market, and 
 the other to markets where a trade is carried on to- 
 day as thriving as if Wilberforce had never lived, nor 
 Abraham Lincoln died, nor Sir Bartle Frere visited 
 the island of Zanzibar — an island no greater than a 
 county in Scotland, but great in crime as the Babylon
 
 90 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 of the Apocalypse. Renegade Arabs from Muscat 
 have settled in Zanzibar, and from the number of 
 these a colony has planted itself in Central Africa, 
 owning allegiance to Said Burgash, but really in- 
 dependent of him, as his power is far too feeble to 
 penetrate a mile inwards from the seaboard. It is 
 this contemptible colony, where every Arab lives in 
 a mud hut, that is the main source of the slave-trade. 
 As Homes said of the Indian mutiny : ' England 
 takes down the map of the world, which she has 
 girdled with empire, and^makes a correction thus : 
 Delhi, dele. The civilized world says, Amen.' 
 
 " To put an end to this enemy of all that belongs 
 to humanity, we must make the first step of our 
 policy dclenda est Unyanycmbe. When we can write 
 dcleta, the backbone of the giant of slavery will 
 
 have been broken. The last words which K at 
 
 Zanzibar said to me were, that he believed the slave- 
 trade was for the time stopped, as he had learned 
 nothing of it for some time. Alas ! that was but a 
 barn-door flight of learning. It is scarcely credible 
 that Europeans in Zanzibar are almost to a man as 
 profoundly ignorant of the opposite coast, not to 
 speak of the interior, as any one never out of range 
 of the sound of Bow bells. 
 
 "I must leave this painful subject. Enough that 
 the terrible evil is still unchecked, and there is my 
 testimony in spite of all negative information from 
 Zanzibar. 
 
 " I do not know that I have ever had opportunity to
 
 FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY. 91 
 
 give you any information respecting the great stretch 
 of country between Unyanyembe and the Nyanza'. 
 As a rule, it is an uninteresting road — I mean physi- 
 cally — but in some respects it is far from being so. 
 
 " One passes through alternate stretches of jungle 
 and clearing, and never meets with a hill worthy of 
 the name. One exception there is, about half-way, 
 where a bold range of mountains, composed of excel- 
 lent iron-stone, runs in an easterly and westerly 
 direction. This, in fact, is the general run of the 
 country all the way. As one goes further north, a 
 strange sameness characterizes the whole, low rocky 
 eminences being met with at every mile, and all bear- 
 ing east and west. Even in the lake itself the 
 system is continued, for Ukerewe is really nothing 
 more nor less than one of these parallel sierras ; and 
 judging from the numerous islets lying in a row 
 between its western extremity and the coast of Kara- 
 gue, I expect to find, on sounding, that a submerged 
 bank extends across the lake in this part. Unyan- 
 yembe lies only some 300 feet above the Victoria 
 Nyanza ; and although its drainage is to the Tan- 
 ganyika, one is soon out of that lower basin, and 
 entered upon the level plain, which sends its waters 
 to the Nyanza by the Siincyn river, and its strangely 
 winding affluent the Hlonoaga. 
 
 "All the country is granite, generally grey, beauti- 
 ful as ever an Aberdonian quarried in the hills of 
 Woodside or Boxburn. Now and again, where the 
 feldspar predominates over the quartz, blocks are
 
 92 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 found of a reddish tint, very much Hke the product of 
 Peterhead. These sierras I have already alluded to 
 are a series of piles of mighty boulders crowning low 
 downs of sand, and covered generally by a scanty 
 vegetation. The mighty granite masses arc no glacial 
 boulders, but relics of a higher land that once stood 
 a couple of hundred feet above the present general 
 level. Here and there a solitary monolith is all that 
 remains, but generally there are great piles of rock 
 towering one above the other, as if some African 
 Titan had been playing at building strongholds, but 
 his masons struck before a single one of the walls 
 was complete, and now the whole are in ruins. On 
 the face of these rocks one may almost trace the 
 movements of the hand of Time, as each boulder shows 
 round its base a family of fragments, some detached 
 centuries ago, and others with all the appearance of 
 having come away but yesterday. As rain and sun 
 combined to break up the larger masses, so these 
 powerful forces are ever acting on the broken pieces, 
 grinding them down to form the loose sand, or rather 
 coarse gravel, of which all the soil is composed, and 
 slowly but surely reducing the whole country to one 
 unbroken plain. On the day the bottom of the 
 Nyanza sank, and another country north of Uganda 
 became still more depressed, the great lake that 
 covered Usukuma discharged its watery contents to 
 produce seven years' plenty in Egypt. The mighty 
 reservoir then contracted into what we call the Vic- 
 toria Nyanza, and no wonder that the diminished
 
 GREAT TANK OF THE NILE. 93 
 
 supply which the Ri'pon Falls could yield was looked 
 upon as a time of famine in the land of corn. The 
 emerged land got by-and-by saturated with showers, 
 and the surplus water found its way to the lake, and 
 hence to the mighty river, and now the equilibrium 
 is restored, and the Nile rises yearly as in former 
 days. 
 
 " Whatever be the history of Nyanza in the past, the 
 relations of this reservoir to commerce in the present 
 should not be overlooked. In these days of Indian 
 famines, much talk is made on the subject of artificial 
 tanks for the storing of water against periods of 
 drought. The wheat and the rice and cotton fields 
 of Egypt are of no small importance in the world's 
 supplies ; and considering the amount of English 
 money invested in the country, capitalists would 
 do well to turn their attention to Lake Victoria, for 
 the rise and fall of the waters in that tank deter- 
 mine the amount of produce in Egypt. If this year 
 the unusual rains have devastated the land of Un- 
 yamwezi, and gone to swell the bosom of Nyanza to 
 a height of six feet, it is evident that this volume of 
 water must fiow out some time ; and if when it has 
 reached Cairo it does not produce ' corn in Egypt,' I 
 fear all ideas of tanks as a means of irrigation are at 
 an end. 
 
 "In the Geographical Magazine which published 
 Stanley's map, Ravenstein makes much of the want 
 of agreement between Stanley's map and his account. 
 Among other corrections by that ' stay-at-iiome
 
 94 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 geographer, an island called Khva is laughed at, be- 
 cause, says the reviewer, the word Khva means island. 
 In what language I do not know. The Suahili 
 word is Kisiiua, and in Uganda they say Kisinga, nor 
 have I found any one in this part of the world call an 
 island Kiwa. It is too bad to find London men 
 thinking they at any rate can improve upon our 
 information regarding things here." 
 
 " M'KoNGO, West Coast, Victoria Nyanza, 
 About Lat. 1° S. ; 
 " Near Msira Island (Stanley's Map), 
 
 "8//^ Sept., 1878. 
 
 " Ten days ago we were wrecked on the shore of 
 this place, and probably much more than other ten 
 days must elapse before we can find ourselves clear 
 away from it. On the 23rd August, 1878, we set sail 
 from Kagei, but a severe thunderstorm soon swept 
 the lake, and continued increasing all the next day, 
 while most vivid lightning among the distant moun- 
 tains of Karague made us anxious to reach the shore. 
 All night we toiled at the oars — that is, the {^.^n who 
 could row, for the Baganda men whom we had on 
 board had no idea of rowing — and just before dawn 
 we neared the land. Many a time I let down my 
 twenty-fathom line, but in vain, until at length, when 
 hope was at the lowest, and we feared to find our- 
 selves in fathomless water on an unknown shore, but 
 which the occasional faint glimmer of a star showed 
 to have precipitous cliff's, I found bottom at fourteen
 
 SniPlVKECk'ED. 95 
 
 fathoms. Hope revived, though the storm seemed 
 to be making towards us, and finding a point where 
 the cliffs receded, having a level sandy beach, we cast 
 anchor in three and a half fathoms of water, lowered 
 the masts, and hoisted an awning to secure us from 
 the approaching tempest. The storms met and passed 
 away, but we were all too much exhausted to think 
 of moving on. Our food was done, but we hoped 
 to secure some bananas among the neighbouring 
 villages. For this purpose we anchored a little nearer 
 the shore, but no sooner had we changed our position 
 than the storms now gone past made themselves felt 
 on the sea, and terrible waves began to break over 
 us. For half an hour we did our utmost to keep the 
 vessel afloat, raising a false splash-board with sails, 
 and trying to keep the ship's head to sea. One tre- 
 mendous wave made the bowsprit dip under the 
 anchor-chain, when away went the bulwark on the 
 weather-side, and the next sea came bodily into the 
 open boat. We were rapidly sinking, but had we 
 got farther out, we might have succeeded in keeping 
 afloat until the sea calmed. Our crew became panic- 
 stricken, and nothing remained but to try to save our 
 goods by drifting ashore. After considerable bruises 
 from the chain, we got anchor up, and next moment 
 we were stranded on the beach. Our instruments 
 and perishable effects were landed in less time than 
 I take to tell the story, and by degrees we got the 
 engine's tools and heavy ' boiler-shells ' safe on land. 
 We tried hard to save the boat from the surf, but our
 
 96 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 united efforts were of no avail, for she became a 
 complete wreck. The natives began to gather round, 
 and envied our goods as we spread them out to dry, 
 but refused to render any assistance in hauling the 
 boat up the beach. The unmerciful waves rapidly 
 did the work of destruction, tearing away the side 
 from the keel, and nearly detaching the hinder com- 
 partment bodily. The wreck was already so complete 
 that it could not now be much worse, and as the 
 storm subsided a little we set to work to knock up 
 a hut out of spars and sails, and as our goods dried 
 we gathered the articles together, to conceal them 
 from the covetous eyes of the natives. Thankful to 
 God for sparing our lives, and that our property was 
 not more damaged, we changed our dripping clothes, 
 and found some food. We soon set to work to repair 
 the Daisy, much as one would make a pair of shoes 
 out of a pair of long boots ; cutting eight feet out of 
 the middle of her^ we brought stem and stern together, 
 patching up all broken parts in these with the wood 
 of the middle portion, and after eight weeks' hard 
 labour we launched her once more on the Victoria 
 Nyanza. 
 
 " Only the other day I came across some of Stanley's 
 letters in the Daily Telegraph, and discovered, to my 
 dismay, that this is the very spot where Stanley had 
 one of those hair-breadth escapes from massacre 
 which seem to have characterized throughout that last 
 but memorable march of his across the continen 
 Well it was for us that he was not * ven^jcfu
 
 Tribute to Stanley. ^i 
 
 disposed ' on that morning ; for had he then fired but 
 a single shot, the natives would doubtless have taken 
 a terrible revenge on us, as we were wrecked on the 
 very same beach ; but a kind Providence foresaw all, 
 and ever since we set foot on this shore the natives 
 have proved themselves as kindly disposed as we 
 could have desired. Wherever I find myself in 
 Stanley's track, in Uganda, Ugogo, or even Ukerewe 
 itself, I find his treatment of the natives has invari- 
 ably been such as to win from them the highest re- 
 spect for the face of a white man." 
 
 A. M .V
 
 ARRIVES IN UGANDA.
 
 ' Mtesa, kindly, but formal, fearful of his dignity, crafty, 
 suspicious, and capable of acts so vile and foul that they may 
 only be hinted at, surrounded by an abject court, an object of 
 grovelling adoration to slavish thousands, but really great in 
 nothing." — T%vo Kings of Uganda. 
 
 " We need here practical hands, as there is a great deal of 
 physical work to be done. But whatever Uganda needs, there 
 is at least 'one thing needful,' and any work we do, if it does 
 not aim at imparting a knowledge of that, and bear right down 
 on it too, will be of comparatively little value." — A. M. Mackay.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 MACKAY reached the place, which lie had 
 chosen as his home, in November, 1878. In 
 the following extracts from letters and journals, we 
 find him holding the Sunday services at court, and 
 gaining the confidence of the king, who for a time 
 abolishes slavery and forbids all Sunday labour. 
 
 " Uganda, Nov., 1878. 
 
 "You would sometimes be amused to liear the 
 high idea entertained by the king and people about 
 their own country. It is only natural, however. Not 
 long ago Mtesa said to me : * Mackay, when I be- 
 come friends with England, God in heaven will be 
 witness that England will not come to make war on 
 Uganda, nor Uganda go to make tvar on England / 
 And when I go to England,' he continued, ' I shtiU 
 take greatness and glory with me, and shall bring 
 greatness and glory back again, hi very one will sa\-, 
 "Oh, Mtesa is coming!" when I reach England, 
 and when I return, " Oh, IMtesa is coming back 
 again ! " ' 
 
 " Of cours?, at such statements I only look very
 
 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 grave, and say, 'Just so, exactly.' At present (do not 
 laugh) Mtesa really believes that Uganda is the most 
 powerful country in the world. Though he fears 
 Egj'pt, he has often spoken of going to fight against 
 Col. Gordon. I have had some stiff arguments with 
 him on this point. You will understand that in 
 such matters I must be very careful. A king that is 
 used to nothing but flattery from his courtiers, whose 
 lives he can take at any moment if they do anything 
 other than flatter him, is no ordinary individual to 
 speak plainly to. One needs a smooth tongue when 
 speaking to him. I do not mean to say that I am 
 afraid of him, but there is no use giving offence. 
 And yet the truth can be told, although not in just so 
 many words. In sacred matters, however, I do very 
 differently. In teaching the relations between man 
 and God, I make no mincing of matters. When I 
 have to say what goes hard against heathen custom 
 and pride and love of self, I give my message, saying, 
 it is not mine, but God's command." 
 
 "Uganda, Nov., 1S78. 
 
 "... When I last wrote you, I said I should 
 write more fully next; and now it is just as hard to 
 fulfil my pledge as then. Being alone, I have very 
 much always on hand, and seldom have a moment to 
 spare. 
 
 " It is to the mercy of God that I owe my life to- 
 day, for last week I nearly succeeded in accidentally 
 poisoning myself I was gathering castor-oil seeds
 
 ALMOST POISONED. 103 
 
 in order to express the oil, and foolishly ate a few, 
 thinking they were harmless. When I was up at the 
 palace a few hours after, I began to feel very ill ; and 
 on coming home I discovered from a book on thera- 
 peutics that the seeds contained an acrid substance 
 which is very poisonous, three seeds being sufficient 
 to prove fatal — I had eaten at least half a dozen ! 
 And, perhaps, the fact of my having taken so many 
 saved me. At once I noted the cause in my logbook, 
 took strong emetics, and an ounce of the castor oil 
 itself, commended myself and mine and my work to 
 God, and lay down to die. My servants gathered 
 round me, but soon fell all asleep, and I had 
 difficulty in rousing them up to keep constant 
 fomentations on my stomach ; but a most violent 
 thunder-storm came on, lasting a great part of the 
 night, and that kept one of the fellows awake. It 
 was six days before I was able to appear at court 
 again, and every one, even Mtesa himself, called me 
 a skeleton, as they looked on my sunken cheeks. 
 
 " I therefore hope that the Lord has work for me 
 to do here yet — the shadow has gone back on my 
 dial, as it did on that of Hezckiah. May I trust in 
 the God of Israel as he did, and may it be said of 
 me in after years that in all the reforms I tried to 
 bring about here, ' The Lord was with him.' 
 
 ". . . God has blessed, and is still blessing, our 
 work here ; for He has made the king and people 
 willing at least to be taught. Fortunately Suahili 
 is widely understood, and I am pretty much at home
 
 AKRiVES JM UJA.VDA. 
 
 in that tongue, while I have many portions of the 
 Old and New Testament in Suahili. I am thus able 
 to read frequently to the king and the whole court 
 the Word of God, and there is a mighty power in 
 that alone. On Sundays I hold regularly divine 
 service in court, and all join as far as they under- 
 stand. Stanley began the good work, and now wc 
 are enabled to carry it on. I have made the faith in 
 Islam a special subject of study of late, and at every 
 fitting opportunity am able to put to confusion the 
 pretensions of the Arabs who represent the false 
 Prophet here. The day is dawning, and I hope will 
 soon be bright. The king and I are great friends, 
 and the chiefs also have great confidence in me ; and 
 I hope to be able to guide them in the way of a more 
 humane policy than has existed hitherto. Cruelty, 
 slavery polygamy, witchcraft, are only some of the 
 terrible evils to be combated, and I have not been 
 slack in my testimony regarding them. Only the 
 grace of God can undo all that the devil has been 
 doing here since the world began. But that grace is 
 sufficiently powerful to do so and more. . . ." 
 
 "Uganda, Christmas, luyS. 
 '' To-day I held a special service, all the chiefs 
 being in ' extra dress,' when I explained the great 
 event of the day. I read the account of the birth of 
 Jesus, as given in St. Luke's Gospel, and explained 
 fully the message of the angels. When I had done 
 I was asked to tcH more, and I embraced the oppor-
 
 SLAVE BARTER. 
 
 tunity to show the dignity of labour from our Lord's 
 thirty years' hfe at Nazareth. 
 
 " Lately an Arab trader arrived with 'guns and 
 cloth, for which he wanted only slaves. Prices thus : 
 one red cloth, one slave ; one musket, two slaves ; 
 one hundred percussion caps, one female slave. I 
 vigorously opposed him, and informed the king of 
 the Sultan's decrees against the slave traffic, and of 
 the cruelties perpetrated on its victims. Then I gave 
 a lecture on physiology, and asked why such an 
 organism as a human body, which no man can 
 make, should be sold for a rag of cloth, which any 
 man can make in a day. The result was not only 
 the rejection of the Arab's demand, but a decree for- 
 bidding any person in Uganda to sell a slave on pain 
 of death. By another decree Mtesa has forbidden all 
 Sunday labour, and the question of the evils of poly- 
 gamy has been seriously discussed by him and the 
 chiefs." 
 
 *'Jau. 10///, 1S79. 
 
 " Since I last wrote I have little news or informa- 
 tion of interest to you. Work goes on smoothly and 
 steadily, and I hope that our teaching is taking root. 
 In nature the greatest things- grow slowly, and we 
 can expect no other mode of operation here. A 
 mushroom growth produces nothing lasting, hence 
 we must be patient ; still, I have little doubt but 
 that if we sow much wc shall reap also much, and 
 that the harder the toil so much greater will be th.e 
 result. . . . Reading, I am teaching by the 'look-
 
 lo5 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 and-say' method, and for this I prepare a series of 
 large type sheets in the Luganda language. It is 
 wonderful how rapid progress my pupils are making 
 in this way. I find the teaching I received at the 
 Free Church Normal School of the greatest value 
 in this respect. Would that all missionaries were 
 taught how to teach. I owe a deep debt of gratitude 
 to Mr. Paterson and his colleagues of Moray House 
 for what I learned there. The national schools in 
 Uganda need more men from that excellent institu- 
 tion. . . . The people are not savages nor even 
 barbarians. They are out of sight far in advance of 
 any race I have met with or even heard of in Central 
 Africa ; they are exceedingly neat-handed, far more 
 so than the coast people, who call themselves alone 
 'civilized.' It is indeed a great step in advance that 
 was taken by the Free Church in the case of the 
 ' Livingstonia Mission,' and by the C.M.S. in our 
 case to make missions in Central Africa industrial. 
 The African has never shown any capacity to grasp 
 the Unseen per se ; he requires something tangible — 
 practical. . . . Uganda is out of sight the finest 
 part of Africa which I have yet seen. The climate 
 is delightful, like an ever-English summer ; at night 
 it is seldom colder than 6o° Fahr., and in the da}^- 
 time only a trifle above 80° Fahr. Rain falls here 
 almost every night, and no day passes Vv'ithout 
 thunderstorms. Grain is almost unknown, the 
 universal food being green plantains, which are 
 generally merely boiled. The trees grow with no
 
 PRODUCTS OF UGANDA. 107 
 
 attention, and each bunch is a man's load. The 
 natives are rather prodigal with the trees ; they in- 
 variably cut one down to get a bunch of plantains ; 
 but so extraordinary is the vitality of the tree that 
 it sprouts again immediately, and in about fifteen 
 months has produced another branch, and is then 
 felled as before. The people are an active, intelli- 
 gent, but excitable race ; they have little or nothing 
 to do for their daily food, as the rich soil yields of 
 itself all that is wanted in this way. Uganda is a 
 constant succession of hill and hollow, the latter 
 being generally swamps ; hence mosquitoes are a 
 most terrible plague. The ground, when not culti- 
 vated, is covered with rank tiger grass, stout as reeds, 
 and these seem particularly favourable to the pre- 
 sence of mosquitoes. They harbour besides wild 
 beasts innumerable, and pythons — a kind of snake 
 allied to the boa constrictor — of dreadful size. The 
 natives are most afraid of buffaloes, which have a 
 peculiar fondness for plundering their plantations ol 
 plantains. 
 
 " This country is really a rich one, and might pro- 
 duce anything. Cotton, coffee, tobacco, are indi- 
 genous. Every stone is iron, and kaolin is in 
 inexhaustible quantity. This kaolin — a stratum of 
 white clay below the red clay— will prove of great 
 value when the country becomes open to trade. But 
 it is not necessary for me to give any lengthened 
 description of such things. No account could be 
 more accurate or admirable than that given by Col.
 
 loS ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 Grant in his 'Walk across Africa.' Indian corn is, 
 I believe, indigenous, as also sweet potato ; but 
 wheat and rice are grown only by coast men. I 
 should fancy this would be excellent land for 
 growing tea and quinine, and many other valuable 
 articles ; but, until there is some proper means of 
 access to the country, the soil and its many products 
 must lie idle. Only English enterprise can overcome 
 the difficulties, although one great step is gained when 
 we make the natives themselves alive to the import- 
 ance of a good road. I fear animal power of any 
 kind will never be available in Central Africa irom 
 the presence of that fatal fly, the tsetse ; but in these 
 days of steam we need not fold our hands. I hope 
 soon to show what can be done in that way, though 
 on a small scale ; for there are several articles of 
 steam machinery belonging to the Mission, and when 
 I have these at work we have the power to produce 
 more and on a larger scale." 
 
 Sunday, Jan. \2tJi. — By dawn no less than four 
 great chiefs and their retinues called. Begged thread 
 and buttons — gave both. Went to palace. Court at 
 length opened. No music or dancing to-day. Read 
 prayers, adding prayer for heathen unbelievers. 
 Mtesa asked " what would be the lot of the heathen 
 who never heard of God } " Replied that God held 
 them guilty, not for want of knowledge, but because 
 they did not see/,; after Him. Read Gospel, Matt. viii. 
 iS ; ix. 17. Explained each paragraph. I find
 
 A CROWDED SMITHY. 
 
 Mufta has no understanding of tlie parables or any- 
 thing else. lie is, besides, most unfaitliful in inter- 
 preting any passage when he thinks the king will be 
 offended. To-day I explained the joining of new 
 cloth on an old garment by incompatibility of 
 Christianity and heathen customs, e.g., polygamy and 
 slavery. Mufta would not give my meaning, still I 
 gave the king to understand the truth. ProbabK- 
 fearing further teaching on the subject, he imme- 
 diately dismissed the court, ... I believe tlie 
 reading of the life of our Lord is not without effect. 
 To-day the king remarked to his people : " ISA 
 (Jesus) — was there ever any one like Him .-' " 
 
 Toli and others in, part of afternoon. Many boys 
 are ever with miC. What attracts them I don't know, 
 for I give them nothing. 
 
 Tuesday, i^th. — Yesterday and to-day engaged in 
 fitting up shop for iron work. Forge, anvil, lathe, 
 vice, and grindstone, are now in order, and will, I 
 hope, be of very much service. 
 
 Thursday, i6th. — Hose of chiefs and slaves crowding 
 my smithy. The cyclops blower and turning lathe 
 are great marvels to them all. The grindstone, how- 
 ever, is perhaps the most interesting object, lliey 
 cannot understand how " the wheels go round ! " 
 
 Tuesday, 2\st. — May God give me grace to search 
 my heart! What have I been doing since I came to 
 Africa ? O Lord, make me and every one of us 
 faithful to Thee, faithful unto death. May we aim at 
 nothing: short of the salvation of souls ! Wliat a
 
 ARRIVES JN UGANDA. 
 
 different life did Johnson lead at Sierra Leone ! May 
 my heart be as full of the desire for the salvation of 
 souls as his was ! The Spirit of God is working in me. 
 It is not in vain. lie will perfect that which He has 
 begun. Give me a burning zeal, O God, for winning 
 souls. Am I not here the link between dying men 
 and the dying Christ } 
 
 Sxinday, 26ih. — Held service in court. The psalm 
 I selected — 51st — struck with force, and the king gave 
 the meaning of it in Luganda. Read St. Matthew x. 
 32-xi. 30. The Spirit of God seemed to be working, 
 for I never found so deep an interest before, nor so 
 intelligent an understanding. Explained carefully 
 the failure of man to keep the Commandments of 
 God, and the way of salvation through Jesus Christ. 
 He not only loved God with all His heart, but loved 
 man so much as to die for him. The king was so 
 struck with the truth of this, that he said to Songura, 
 "This is truth I have heard to-day; there can be 
 only one truth. You cannot say there are twenty 
 inani in a frasilah if there be only twelve. Your re- 
 ligion is different from the truth, therefore it must be 
 lies." He spoke of the persecution which he must 
 endure from Egypt by becoming a Christian, but saw 
 that persecution was the cross of Christians. 
 
 I never had such a blessed service. Oh, may the 
 mighty Spirit of God work deeply in their hearts by 
 His grace ! He alone can do It. 
 
 Afternoon, king sent message with present of goat 
 saying, It was a blessed passage I read to-day. Toli 
 called and spoke of the same.
 
 COUNSELS MERCY IN IVAR. 
 
 To-day the kinc^ reproved Songura for wanting 
 to sell a gun on the Sabbath. May God make us 
 consistent ourselves in the observance of His day ! 
 That is not easy in Africa, still it is possible. Even 
 in travelling I always found it practicable. 
 
 Adam returned after several days' desertion. By 
 foolishly firing off guns in these days of setting out 
 to war, many have been seriously shot by accident. 
 Two men I find with their legs broken, and another 
 with a bullet through the shoulder. I know too little 
 of surgery to treat the cases well, but shall do my 
 best. 
 
 Friday, 24///.— Great day at court. All great 
 chiefs, eight in number, with their slaves and de- 
 pendents, commissioned to go to Busoga to reduce 
 rebellion. Some 10,000, I believe, will be the 
 strength of the united force. Talked earnestly with 
 Kyambalango, Sembuzi, and others on method of 
 warfare. I advised to cease from cruelty. When the 
 enemy sued for peace, to slay no more, nor chop their 
 ears off, nor to steal their wives and slaves. Told 
 them to unarm the rebels, and be satisfied with goats 
 and oxen. 
 
 Wednesday, 29///. — Koluji called. Promises to re- 
 pair roof of workshop. Talked with him on the 
 custom he has, with many chiefs, of carrying a rosary, 
 as the Mohammedans do. He promises to leave it 
 off. He sees also the absurdity of charms, although 
 recently he believed so st^^ongly in them as to buy of 
 me a white cock to sacrifice. Persuaded two more
 
 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 chiefs to lay aside rosary. Great chief (next to 
 Katikiro) has, I am glad to say, taken my advice, 
 and rejected his charms on his legs against snakes. 
 
 Before going to bed, heard great cry of goat being 
 carried off by a leopard. It seemed to be at the very 
 door. Aroused cowherd and rushed out with lantern, 
 but found our goats all safe in shed. My fowls have 
 been disappearing every night, till now I have none. 
 A great hole in the side of their hut shows how easily 
 the beast of prey knows how to get his supper. It is, 
 indeed, dangerous to open the door after dark. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. gth. — Sat for hours in church teach- 
 ing. To-day wrote out the Lord's Prayer in Luganda. 
 Edi had written it with much other matter (I think 
 from Stanley's dictation), in Arabic character. I am 
 really astonished to find many copies of this about. 
 The eagerness to know and possess the truth is much 
 more deeply seated here among chiefs and youths 
 than I suspected. 
 
 The next scene is that of Mackay boldly denounc- 
 ing the virtue of placing bloody charms on the 
 threshold. 
 
 Ulay 1st. — Several medicine-men put in an appear- 
 ance, shaking their magic wands at the door ; and 
 from the deference shown them, I could well see 
 what a place these evil priests occupy even in the 
 court at the present day. Then two of the grass 
 bunches, dipped in blood, were brought in by a magic 
 man. The king received them by simply touching
 
 DENOUNCES CHARMS. 113 
 
 them, and they were at once placed on the threshold 
 with sev^eral there already. 
 
 I felt the occasion most opportune, but could not 
 get a beginning. Soon, however, by God's help, I 
 gathered my thoughts in Suahili and began. To 
 lead gently and agreeably up to the point, I began 
 talking of the greatness of Uganda and its great 
 king, and how he alone of all the kings in Central 
 Africa was willing to hear and obey the Word of 
 God, and to worship the one true God and His Son, 
 Isa Masiya. But, I said, some of his people seemed 
 to wish him to serve other gods also. For instance, 
 there, and kneeling down I took hold of one of the 
 charms on the threshold. I said these were poor 
 gods. Was not Jehovah in heaven far greater than 
 all these bunches of grass ? That was an insult to 
 God to look for good luck from such things. Good 
 luck came from God alone. 
 
 "Oh, it is destarV (custom of old). That was the 
 general reply. Then I continued to show the 
 absurdity of the thing. Was not grass in the jungle 
 and grass in the doorway just the same t A moutiv 
 ful for a cow ! 
 
 The next defence of it by the king was that it was 
 an offering. I called to his mind the Psalms and 
 other Scripture I had read to him before, how Christ 
 has once for all shed His blood, that God requires 
 only the worship of our hearts. 
 
 Then arose much talk about the necessity for 
 mixing the new (white man's) religion with the old. 
 
 A. M. M. 8
 
 114 ARRIVES jy UGANDA. 
 
 I spoke very earnestly on this, and asked the king if 
 I had not read to him how Christ said a piece of new 
 cloth cannot be sewn on an old garment. I begged 
 my words not to be misunderstood, for they were not 
 the words of merely a LIsungu (European), but of 
 Miiniigit (God). 
 
 But Satan had his messenger to check me. None 
 of the half-breeds were present, but one of Baker's 
 renegades did terrible talk in Arabic. I do not think 
 the fellow meant to be against me, but he is a great 
 flatterer, and therefore a favourite courtier. They 
 call him Babekere. Mtesa generally interpreted his 
 words to me. They were pretty much that white 
 men were in Egypt, in Alexandria, Jeddah, Khar- 
 toum, etc., and all were engaged in doing the 
 wonderful things which white men could do, but that 
 they did not demand that the old religion of these 
 places should be laid aside. When we showed some 
 wonderful work, then the king would be able to ask 
 the Baganda to follow the white man's faith. 
 
 Hardly I pressed the necessity of putting things of 
 heaven first, for soon we should all have to leave this 
 world, and could take no skill or trades with us to the 
 next. Talk was often very trying and unpleasant to 
 listen to, but I took little notice, except to renew 
 my supplication, begging them to serve God only. 
 " Thou shalt have no other gods besides Me." This 
 they have heard, and I pressed attention to it. 
 
 The king at times got warm, and said " he knew to 
 read before we came, and knew the Bible Stanley
 
 GAINS A VICTORY. 
 
 had told him we would make every kind of thing for 
 him, and now we would make nothing." I showed 
 the absurdity of his asking me to make everything 
 with my two hands, while his 2,000,000 of people went 
 about idle. I would teach them what I knew, that 
 they might know after I died. This I had alwa\-s 
 said, and had asked for pupils, but had got none yet. 
 Mtesa said he could not ask the people to follow our 
 religion till we had first shown our skill in^arts, etc. 
 
 Again I referred to the bloody charms, and ex- 
 plained how no man could serve two masters, by 
 saying I could not be true to his interests and to the 
 Khedive's also. But it was the Word of God alone 
 that was my authority, and that he said he read 
 frequently. Here God touched his heart. A few 
 words with his chiefs in their own language, and I 
 saw what was coming. I asked leave to take up all 
 the bundles and burn them. Copplestone^ begged me 
 not to be so hasty, but Mtesa ordered the lot to be 
 taken away, and forthwith it was done, and now no 
 fetich or devil's mark lies at his door. We talked a 
 little more, and in a friendly way, and our lengthy 
 sitting was soon after ended. 
 
 The chiefs, who had sat nearly all the time per- 
 fectly mute, being dumfoundered at the boldness with 
 which I spoke, as soon as we got out crowded round 
 me, and embraced me after the Uganda fashion. 
 
 Copplestone and I came quietly home, and I now 
 
 ' H^. and Stokes joined the INIission, April SlU, 1S79
 
 Ii6 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 thank the good Lord for the victory the truth has 
 this day gained. 
 
 I fully believe various charms will be wrought 
 against me by the defeated magic men, but He that 
 is with me is greater than he that is with them. May 
 God make us all faithful, but also humble ! 
 
 From this time we hear of Roman Catholic priests 
 frequently coming into open collision with the C.M.S. 
 missionaries. On 22nd February, 1879, tivo arrived 
 at the capital, and these were speedily followed by 
 three others. These were p?>-t of a host of men 
 trained at Algiers, and sent by the " Notre Dame 
 d'Afrique " Society. It is part of their policy to send 
 men where Protestant Missions are already planned 
 or at work. It is impossible to look upon this rivalry 
 with pleasure, because it is confessedly a rivalry of 
 the Roman Catholic creed and custom against the 
 Protestant. The conduct of these priests at first was 
 offensive in the extreme. They refused to kneel at 
 prayer in worship when conducted by Mackay at 
 court. They openly proclaimed their opposition to 
 *he teaching of the C.M.S. men who were there before 
 them, and they did not scruple openly to proclaim 
 them liars. Better relations were afterwards estab- 
 lished, through the good sense and courtesy of 
 Mackay and his brethren, and by the common danger 
 which both Missions had to share ; but it remains a 
 scandal to Christendom that this Algiers Mission 
 should openly set itself in opposition to Christian
 
 MTESA REQUESTS PRAYER. 117 
 
 Missions of another creed when working amongst the 
 barbarous races of Africa. 
 
 Sunday, May iit/i. — I went early to court alone. 
 Found the padre there, but, after shaking hands, I 
 sat away from him. King sent to ask if I had 
 brought my book. I said I had, so we were sum- 
 moned in. Mtesa begged me to pray as well as to 
 read. The padre did not leave his seat, nor kneel 
 down, nor even join in the Amens. I read the story 
 of Elijah on Mount Carmel, and the prophets of 
 Baal, and the rain from heaven. Mtesa desired me 
 to read more ; but I politely refused, as I wish to 
 make a delight and not a weariness of reading. 
 Mon Pere did not say a word. Mtcsa asked him if 
 he understood. He said, " A little." I handed him 
 Kings in Suahili to look at. The king asked if he 
 knew it. He replied that " he knew it a little, as it 
 was out of the Bible ! " 
 
 Saturday, 2^tJi. — We had talk on " two religions." 
 He said he would not have two religions in his 
 country, meaning Islam and Christianity. I said I 
 had little fear of his turning a Moslem again, but he 
 would have two religions when he had Roman Catho- 
 lics and Protestants together. The Frenchmen, he 
 said, would not read prayers, nor teach their religion, 
 at least they had not yet done so. I merely replied 
 that when the padres had all come, and been here 
 some time, he (Mtesa) would see that all I had told 
 him about them was quite true.
 
 iiS ARRIVES hV UGANDA. 
 
 " Every nation of white men has another religion ?" 
 " No." " Perhaps the religion of the Frenchmen is 
 a true religion?" "It is like Mohammedanism, a 
 mixture of true and false. We believe in and teach 
 only the Word of God ; they add to it much of 
 man's word, as of equal value." 
 
 It seems to me that God has allowed these false 
 teachers to come that we may be more earnest in 
 teaching the truth. Oh, that we could and would 
 use the short time we have more to God's glory ! 
 We did what we could to keep the tares from being 
 sown when the first Papists turned up; but we failed, 
 and now they will settle in the country beside us. 
 Well, as Christ Himself taught, let the tares grow 
 up along with the wheat, and on harvest day God 
 will gather them separately. 
 
 ]Vedncsday, 28///. — Oh, that we could unite with 
 all our might and call down the Spirit and power of 
 God on our work I It is not at court, but among the 
 common people that we ever can have real success. 
 Experience of the most successful missionaries shows 
 that work among the young is the most hopeful by 
 far. This we must keep ever in view. May the Lord 
 give us grace to unite all our energies in the great 
 work — I lis work — here! The work is gigantic, and 
 we are few ; but if we live united to Him and to one 
 another in love, our power for good will be nothing 
 short of the mighty power of God. 
 
 Lord, enable us to search our hearts, and humble 
 ourselves before Thee, Ob, for a closer walk with
 
 MORE PRIESTS ARRIVE. iig 
 
 God, more faith, more sincerity, more earnestness, 
 and more love ! I must study more the Word of God. 
 " If ye abide in Me, and My words abide in you, ask 
 whatsoever ye will, and it shall be done unto you." 
 The Master said so, and His words are true. 
 
 SiLnda}\ June \st. — Stokes and I took a walk this 
 evening to the top of the high hill to the south-west 
 of us. Most delightful was the air on the top. We 
 saw Murchison Bay at various points, and a great 
 expanse of country on every side. The population 
 seems dense — houses and gardens in every valley, 
 and on all the many hill-slopes. What a field for 
 labour 1 If we could only talk with the people in 
 their own tongue, why then it would not be the plea- 
 sure of the king, but far and near we should proclaim 
 among the common people how God is God, and 
 God is love. I do not believe we could be hindered 
 in doing so. We know as yet really next to nothing 
 of the people, but the little we do know shows them 
 to be pleasant and friendly. 
 
 The Romish priests now arrive on the scene in 
 great force, and much trouble follows. The king 
 desires baptism ! 
 
 Friday, 2jth. — To-day the Frenchmen had their 
 reception. Their presents seem to have been admir- 
 ably selected ; inter alia: five repeating rifles, box of 
 powder and shot, etc., embroidered military suits, 
 cuirassiers' helmets, officers' swords, mirrors, silver 
 plate, etc., etc.
 
 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 Sunday, June 29///. — This day is one the recollec- 
 tion of which will remain on my own mind, and on 
 the minds of all at court. The lesson I intended to 
 read and explain was the last three chapters of St. 
 IMatthew (in Suahili) — the death and resurrection of 
 our Lord. I went to court, but scarcely expecting any 
 opportunity of reading, as the day was so dull. By- 
 and-by it became finer, and the chiefs arrived. Then 
 M, Lourdcl and his Superior came in (to the outer 
 courts). I rose and bowed to them, but M. Lourdel 
 did not introduce me to his colleague. They went 
 and sat down in a hut, and I went over to the chapel, 
 where I spent a pleasant hour in teaching the first 
 truths to a circle of willing fellows. 
 
 About mid-day the king opened baraza. As soon 
 as I was seated, the padres were shown in, and sat 
 down beside me. Mtesa did not allow the half- 
 breeds and general rabble to come in, and the usual 
 noise of drums, harps, etc., outside was ordered to 
 cease. 
 
 Then I was asked to come forward to read. I 
 showed a little hesitation, these two men being beside 
 me ; but the Katikiro and chiefs only pressed me 
 more, and made way for me. They all knelt, and 
 after opening the Prayer-Book I said to M. Lourdel, 
 at my side, that we were going to pray, and perhaps 
 he would kneel with us. He said he did not under- 
 stand me, nor would he understand when told by one 
 of the others in Suahili. So I went on, and was not 
 interrupted by the padres, only I heard one whisper
 
 AN ANGRY PRIEST. 
 
 to the other Pater noster when I was reading the 
 Suahili version of it. Prayers being over, I was 
 asked to read the Scriptures as usual. I opened the 
 book and commenced. The first sentence — " Ye 
 know that after two days the Son of Man is delivered 
 up to be crucified " — struck them by its accuracy of 
 prediction, and hence its testimony to the divinity of 
 the " Son of Man." I never got farther. Mtesa, in 
 his abrupt style, said to Toli, " Ask the Frenchmen 
 if they do not believe in Jesus Christ why don't they 
 kneel down with us when we worship Him every 
 SabbiLi } don't they worship Him ? " 
 
 M. Lourdel was spokesman. He became all at once 
 very excited, and said, " We do not join in that re- 
 ligion, because it is not true ; we do not know that 
 book, because it is a book of lies. If we joined in 
 that, it would mean that we were not Catholics, but 
 Protestants, who have rejected the truth. For hun- 
 dreds of years they were with us, but now they believe 
 and teach only lies." Such was the drift of his ex- 
 cited talk, in a mixture of bad Arabic, Suahili, 
 Luganda, and French ! 
 
 The king translated the meaning to the court. 
 
 Another asked me what I had to say. I felt sure 
 that the moment was one requiring great coolness 
 and great firmness, for my opponent's excited state 
 might prove contagious ; while his repeated denunci- 
 ation of me as a liar [jinvoiigd) could not be easily 
 disproved on such an occasion — nor did I attempt to 
 disprove it.
 
 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 I endeavoured to give the king a simple account of 
 the history of the Church, and why we had left Rome. 
 I stated as clearly as possible that our authority was 
 the Word of God only, that the Romanists had the 
 Pope as their head, while we had one head — Jesus 
 Christ. I tried to smooth the matter by saying that 
 we had one belief in many things — one God, one 
 Saviour, one Bible, one heaven, and one law of life. 
 
 But my friend would have no terms of peace 
 " There was one truth, and he came to teach that, and 
 we were liars ! We were liars to say that they wor- 
 shipped the Virgin Mary ; we were liars to say that 
 they regarded the Pope as infallible. The Pope was 
 the king of * religion ' in all the world. He was the 
 successor of Peter, who was the successor of Christ. 
 The Pope was the only authority to teach ' the truth ' 
 in the world. Wherever we came to teach lies, the 
 Pope sent his men to teach the truth. If what he 
 said was not true, he would die on the spot," etc., 
 etc. 
 
 I listened calmly to all, and never replied to the 
 padre. Only when the king asked me to speak, I 
 quietly told him how the " truth " stood. I said that 
 he should first hear more of the doctrines of the 
 Frenchmen, and I had little fear of a man of his in- 
 telligence being able to come to a right decision. 
 
 " How can I know what is right and what is false ? " 
 " By appealing to the Book. You have the Gospel in 
 Arabic, and can read it." *' Yes ; and I have read in 
 it, and know that you teach only out of it." " Well
 
 BEWILDERMENT OF THE COURT. 123 
 
 look and see if you find there that Christ appointed 
 a line of popes as His successors to teach the truth." 
 
 Never did I hear the word mivongo so frequently 
 used. The padre was really, to say the least, not 
 guilty of using too much of his native/(?///c'j-j-^. 
 
 His Superior seemed to me at times to be persuad- 
 ing him to be quiet, and at others to be prompting 
 him, but he only spoke in French. I could not but 
 feel sorry for the king and his chiefs. Their feeling 
 of hopeless bewilderment made them say, " Every 
 white man has a different religion." 
 
 They went home, and so did I. It is with a heavy 
 heart that I think of the trouble now begun. But it 
 is the great battle for the truth, and the victory will 
 be God's. I took the one ground that we must ever 
 fight on and for — " Christ the sole head, and His 
 word the only guide." 
 
 It must be with all our might that we must labour 
 to give the people the Scriptures in their own tongue, 
 and teach them to read and understand them. Where 
 will Popery be then ? 
 
 Sunday, July 2'jtJi. — The lesson I read was the 
 third of John's Gospel — the second birth. After- 
 wards the Arabs had much to say on their doctrine 
 of fatalism, and I did my best to refute their blind 
 belief Two padres were present, but were silent. I 
 took care in the lesson to say nothing to rouse their 
 opposition, unless the whole subject of justification 
 by faith might be regarded as contrary to their creed. 
 At any rate, I thank God that they were quiet, and
 
 124 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 did not spoil our service other than by constant 
 wliispering between each other. 
 
 Sunday, August loth. — The lesson I took was "the 
 two debtors " who had " nothing to pay," in the house 
 of Simon the Pharisee. I got the whole audience 
 interested, and therefore attentive. May the Lord 
 bless His own Word ! 
 
 By-and-by the king called us in. He seems just 
 now in the humour for cross-questioning the Moham- 
 medans. Last Friday he called Musudi (the one- 
 eyed rogue) forward, and posed him sorely on why 
 they did not translate their Koran into other lan- 
 guages. 
 
 We had a long and interesting discussion on the 
 Koran. I have found a tendency at times among 
 the people to undervalue their own tongue, and wish 
 to learn English or Suahili, while I always endeavour 
 to persuade them that their own language is beautiful, 
 and that they should all learn to read and write it, 
 and pray in it. The dogmatic statements of the 
 Arabs are as ill-natured as they are foolish and un- 
 reasonable, and I firmly believe Mtesa and the court 
 laugh at them. 
 
 To-day the king brought up the subject of wearing 
 charms, etc. The Arabs asserted the saving power of 
 pieces of the Koran being always worn on their per- 
 son. I caused much laughter at their expense about 
 this. Kyambalango took up the matter, and, from 
 his own experience, related many cases in which such 
 charms did not make Mussulmans invulnerable.
 
 WORKING FOR DAILY BREAD. 125 
 
 They refused to believe that the Turks could be 
 beaten by the Russians when the former carried the 
 flag of Islam ; but I mentioned an instance nearer 
 home, when the heathen Mirambo put the pious men 
 of Unyanyembe to flight more than once. But a 
 blind " believer " will talk much nonsense when he 
 cannot talk sense. 
 
 This evening I have much enjoyed reading the 
 " Trident, Crescent, and Cross." The story of what 
 God has done in another land does much to refresh 
 and encourage one in the face of similar difficulties. 
 
 God give us the meekness of Him who did not 
 strive nor cry! 
 
 " Lessons on Life of our Lord," by Mr. Stock, I 
 find ever a most valuable book in preparing the 
 passage for Sunday reading at court. 
 
 Saturday, 22,rd. — All this week I have not been to 
 court since Sunday. Every day at work in the 
 smithy, making and repairing articles belonging to 
 the natives. For these, goats and plantains arc sent 
 in as payment, and this is getting pretty necessar}-, 
 as we have nearly nothing to buy such with. 
 
 Sept. 1st. — Went to court. Had opportunity to 
 add to my vocabulary of Luganda. Phrases and 
 idioms are what I try most to get accurately. I see 
 the importance of being very accurate in securing 
 words and phrases, and I am not afraid of being able 
 to far outstrip the Frenchmen in that, 
 
 Sunday, "jth. — Read prayers in court, and took up 
 the mission of the twelve and the seventy. INItesa
 
 126 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 asked, when I had finished, about baptism. " Could 
 any one baptize ? " " No." " Can you ? " " No ; but 
 the clergyman is qualified to do so." " I wish to be 
 baptized and my chiefs." I then told him that bap- 
 tism could not be performed on any except true 
 believers, and these we judged not by their words, 
 but by their actions. He asked me to explain more 
 fully. I told him that we judged a good tree by its 
 fruit being good ; that many were ready to say that 
 they believed, and were willing to become Christians ; 
 but who were ready to live as Christians ? I saw no 
 one yet laying aside lying, stealing, witchcraft, murder, 
 Sabbath-breaking, and such like. After further talk, 
 I asked him if he would, for instance, be willing to 
 lay aside polygamy, and be content with only one 
 wife. I said that we could not baptize a man who, 
 in his daily life, went right against the commands of 
 God. He said that he knew that the Uganda custom 
 in this produced many evils, and he had once made 
 up his mind to live two years with no wife at all ; but 
 after two months he returned to the old way. 
 
 We next see him in the king's presence vigorously 
 opposing the Arabs and their blind belief ; also 
 glimpses of him, with tools in hand, working hard at 
 the bench for daily bread, surrounded with pupih 
 spelling out their reading-sheets, etc. 
 
 TJiursday, nth. — Yesterday I was at court, when 
 a great argument was held on the Koran. Mtesa 
 hat' asked the half-breeds to read a passage about
 
 CONFLICT WITH MUSSULMANS. 127 
 
 Solomon sending a letter by an eagle to a distant 
 queen, whom he afterwards vanquished for refusing 
 to pay him tribute. Mtesa asked me what I thought 
 of the story. I replied that it was very nice ; but 
 was it true .-^ "Oh, Mohammed got it direct from 
 heaven ! " they said. I explained that most of the 
 accounts of ancient Jews given in the Koran were 
 obtained frcn". the Jewish Talmud, which was simply 
 a collection of unreliable traditions. It was absurd 
 to talk of things being revealed by God only 1,200 
 years ago, which were known to the Jews for hun- 
 dreds of years before Mohammed's day. The 
 Mussulmans stormed terribly at this, and denied 
 that such a book as the Talmud existed, or, if it 
 did, they had nothing to do with it. 
 
 Tuesday, i6th. — Terrific conflict with the Mussul- 
 mans again. They blasphemed terribly against the 
 assertion that our Saviour was Divine. Mtesa had 
 given out that he regarded every one as a blockhead 
 {lujiuga — simpleton) who could not read. He then 
 spoke on translating, and jested about the absurdity 
 of the Koran being a book for all people, seeing that 
 it could not be translated into Luganda. Masudi 
 (the one-eyed) and Ramathan were the chief speakers. 
 The Superior of the French mission was present, but 
 said nothing, and, I believe, understood very little. 
 The Mussulmans are themselves only ill-informed on 
 their own creed, but are correspondingly fanatical. 
 They arc, besides, glib talkers, and talk any one down 
 with ease.
 
 128 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 Wednesday, lyth. — Went to court this morning, as 
 I expected a renewal of yesterday's battle, being 
 almost sure of there being a baraza, as last night the 
 new moon was first visible. This closes the Rama- 
 dan fast of the Mohammedans, and they are particu- 
 larly zealous just now. The half-breeds were strong 
 in numbers, and stormed, blasphemed, and, above all, 
 lied furiously. 
 
 To the great amount of absurdities they brought 
 forward about the prosperity and power of Mussul- 
 man nations in the world, I replied nothing. I told 
 the king that the religion of Jesus Christ was a thing 
 quite apart from temporal power ; that Jesus Christ 
 was a poor man, and His religion was not one of the 
 sword. Lourdel assented to this, and, in fact, we 
 stood fast together all through. 
 
 The Mohammedans railed on us as the worshippers 
 of pictures, as having more gods than one, and, above 
 all, as being mainly intent on conquest. 
 
 Mtesa began again about baptism. We would not 
 baptize him, and he wanted an English wife, and I 
 would not give him one ! He would not have me to 
 teach any more unless I should get him a princess 
 from Europe ! I told him of the nature of such 
 arrangements with us. " Peradventure the woman 
 will not come." He was astonished when I said that 
 no woman could be married without her consent. I 
 brought forward the saying of our Lord, that " he 
 that putteth away his wife and marrieth another, 
 committeth adultery." I received the very answer I
 
 THE NICENE CREED. i.; 
 
 expected — " I have no wife ; my women arc all 
 slaves." 
 
 Sunday, 2\st. — Went to court alone and held 
 service. Yesterday I had gone over and improved 
 my Luganda version of the prayers, and this morning 
 I read the revised form. Instead of the Apostles' 
 Creed I have translated the Nicene Creed, as the 
 latter is more explicit on the divinity of our Lord, 
 and this is the great question just now, as the Mus- 
 sulmans declare Him to be only a prophet ; while 
 on the other hand, the new teaching of Mary being 
 the "Mother of God" is well met in this creed; while 
 the short creed, I find, has not sufficiently guarded 
 against such an inference. It is a pleasure to be 
 able, in ever so imperfect a manner, to have prayers 
 in such a language as all present can join intelli- 
 gently in, and this they did to-day. 
 
 The first part of our lesson was the feeding of the 
 five thousand. In connection with that. Munakulya 
 (a miitongolc) has begged me to teach him a grace to 
 say at meals. Such a subject is full of instruction to 
 an audience like what one finds here, where daily food 
 is got with no toil. 
 
 Then came the most important and most oppor- 
 tune subject — " Whom say ye that I am ? " (Luke ix.) 
 Without alluding to the debates of the previous days, 
 I dwelt much on the great fact of " God manifest in 
 the flesh." I turned up passage after passage show- 
 ing the testimon}.' of all the evangelists, of angels, and 
 of Jesus Himself, to His oneness with the Father. It 
 
 A. M. M. 9
 
 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 was ia the chapel (not in the king's presence) where 
 we had service ; but the Katikiro and many chiefs 
 were present, and joined most attentively in consider- 
 ing this great question. I hope (D.V.) to continue 
 the same subject next Sunday. 
 
 Sunday, 2^th. — The chapel was full, those of lesser 
 rank sitting outside. After reading prayers in Lu- 
 ganda, I went over again the subject of last Sunday, 
 showing that the united testimony of prophets, 
 angels, apostles, and the Lord Himself was that He 
 was no less than the Son of the living God, and the 
 one Saviour of the world. Then came the special 
 subject for to-day — the value of an immortal soul. 
 
 Such lessons are by no means over-formal, but are 
 given much in the way in which Moslem teachers 
 explain the Koran. We all sit on the floor, on mats, 
 and in a familiar way I endeavour to inculcate the 
 great truths of eternity. Many listen attentively ; 
 and as their habit is to repeat over their understand- 
 ing of each clause, I get an idea of how far they have 
 caught my meaning, and derive no little encourage- 
 ment also in thus feebly fulfilling so great a duty. 
 It is an awful position to stand between darkness 
 and the light of life. 
 
 I had just finished, when the king asked us into his 
 house. He had a lot of books (Arabic N. T., etc.) 
 by him last Sunday. The two Masudis were there, 
 and Mtesa asked them if they had brought a book 
 they had many days ago promised to bring as con- 
 clusively proving something Mohammedan. They
 
 MTESA'S CONFESSION. 
 
 had, and read largely from it. Then I asked to be 
 allowed to read Christ's own testimony as to His 
 divinity, and the king bade me read. The Mussul- 
 mans maintained that at the end of the world their 
 prophet would come to be the judge of all. I re- 
 fused to argue on the matter, but read aloud the 24th 
 chapter of St. Matthew. Mtesa acknowledged that 
 he believed in our Lord as the Son of God from all 
 eternity, and as the only future Judge of the world. 
 He seems to take pleasure in discussion, however. 
 
 I liked exceedingly Mtesa's behaviour to-day. I 
 often think there is the work of God in his heart. We 
 must only pray earnestly that the Lord will give him 
 grace to be a real disciple. It is no small matter for 
 such as he to leave the way of his forefathers and live 
 a Christian. 
 
 I feel truly thankful that now our opportunities of 
 public teaching at court are not confined to these 
 occasions of controversy in court, which at best are 
 a secondary means of good. Teaching directly from 
 the Word of God in our Sunday lessons in the 
 chapel, where no one has ever yet interrupted me, 
 will, I believe, be of more real value. But the bless- 
 ing is only of God. 
 
 Friday, Oct. yd. — This afternoon I had a visit 
 from one of the king's sons — a young fellow, but 
 really "a bonny boy." This is the first time that any 
 of them have ventured here. Much I would give 
 that we could influence for good all tlie young 
 princes. One of them will by-and-by be selected
 
 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 king, and a really Christian king in Uganda would 
 be the dawn of a new era. 
 
 Siinday, Oct. "^th. — Kyan:ibalango kept me long 
 reading with him carh'. Went to court, and had 
 prayers in chapel. Resumed consideration of the 
 same subject as last Sunday : " If any man will come 
 after Me, let him deny himself." I spoke very 
 plainly and solemnly on this, and had all listening 
 seriously. I pressed the truth home, and hope,, by 
 God's blessing, that several felt in some measure the 
 gravity of the theme. Then we went to the ordinary 
 waiting-place, when we had dinner. This over, 
 Mtesa called us in — chiefs only. We had much 
 serious conversation with him. He sent out for a 
 catechism which Lourdel had given him in French 
 and Suahili — the same one which M. Lourdel had 
 read part of some time ago to the king in my pre- 
 sence. Mufta read a portion of this with my help, 
 as the Suahili in it is spelt in a French way, and 
 is besides very poor. The first chapters are, on the 
 whole, less full of error than those later on. It 
 begins : — 
 
 " r. Q. What is a Christian ? " 
 ^' A. A man who has received baptism." 
 "2. Q. Is every man who has received baptism a 
 Christian ? " 
 "y-1. Yes ; but all are not good Christians." 
 Farther on comes the treatment of the adoration 
 of the Virgin, purgatory, extreme unction, etc. When 
 this was over, the chiefs began telling Mtesa what
 
 RELIGION AND LIFE. 133 
 
 I had been impressing on them in the chapel. The 
 subject of polygamy then was talked on for some 
 time. I told them that I fully recognised the diffi- 
 culty of the case, but said that we also should go 
 in for many wives were it not that the plain com- 
 mand of God was against it. I said that they could 
 still keep their households of women as servants. 
 The Mussulmans had again much to say. They 
 declared that polygamy had nothing to do with 
 religion. I asked their chief advocate, " How many 
 wives have you ? " " Four." " Why not five } " 
 This they knew to be an injunction of their creed, 
 and could not answer. They then maintained that 
 religion was a thing of pure belief, and had nothing 
 to do with manner of life. I asked, " Then wh)' did 
 you not join the chiefs and me in the food which 
 the king sent out to us just now?" They were 
 floored again, and Mtesa and the whole court laughed 
 heartily at them. 
 
 The king said that he had asked the Frenchmen 
 about polygamy, and Lourdel had told him that he 
 should have only one wife. " We want to do what 
 is right in this matter, and long ago I have con- 
 sidered the question, but never could see how to 
 arrange it. I was always unwilling to say much on 
 the subject, as I feared my chiefs would denounce 
 me." It was gratifying to hear the king talk thus. 
 The Katikiro said also that I had told them to-day 
 that their responsibility was great, seeing they now 
 knew .so much of the truth, if they did not do as
 
 134 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 well as hear. The difficulty is this : At present a 
 man's status is reckoned by his establishment, which 
 depends on the number of his wives. These cook 
 the food, and do all the work. 
 
 " How is a man to get on with only one wife 
 and several children in his house.'" asked the king. 
 " Who will look after the goats, cook the food } " etc. 
 I said that we in Europe had women servants always 
 in the house ; but they were not our wives, and need 
 not be necessarily wives here either. 
 
 I have never seen the matter so seriously discussed 
 before, and I only pray the mighty Lord will enable 
 them to decide for Him and not for the flesh. 
 
 Mtesa put some curious questions about prophets. 
 It appears that the Arabs had told him the other 
 day that the prophets (Adam, Abraham, Joseph, 
 Solomon, whom they call prophets) were all poly- 
 gamists, and were yet of God. Mtesa asked me it 
 there were any prophets of the devil. I told him that 
 these (Adam, etc.) were not prophets, but that David 
 and Moses were, and many more, and that these 
 latter were men of God, and foretold the coming of 
 the Messiah. He said that he did not want to have 
 an}'thing to do with prophets of the devil, ^ and meant 
 to follow Jesus Christ and His prophets. Strange 
 to sa}', the Moslems held their peace to-day, and I 
 
 ' I did not guess then wliat was in his mind, and that pro- 
 phets of the devil were the licbarcs, or witches of the country.^ 
 A. M. M.
 
 EXPECTS CONVERSIONS. 
 
 took care to say nothing that would directly 101132 
 their opposition. 
 
 I have heard it in letters from friends that Mtesa 
 is only a hypocrite, and has no real desire for the 
 truth. This may be somewhat so, but it is also more 
 than somewhat not so. The natural man cares not 
 for the things of God. It is true no less in England 
 than in Uganda, that the " carnal mind is enmity 
 against God, and is not subject to the will of God, 
 neither indeed can be." 
 
 But where is our faith ? Is it not our prayer, and 
 is it not and has it not been the prayer of a multitude 
 of God's people at home, that the Gospel should take 
 root here in the heart of the king and people of 
 Uganda } Are we then to cease to expect what we 
 pray for t And are we to disbelieve our eyes and 
 ears when we see the first signs — they may be faint 
 signs — of the work of the Spirit in the heart of the 
 king and of more besides .-* 
 
 As my father writes, " Conversion is truly a miracle, 
 and nothing but the Spirit of God can effect it." 
 "Ask of Me, and I will give thee the heathen for 
 thine inheritance, and the uttermost parts of the 
 earth for thy possession." It- is not foolish enthu- 
 siasm that would lead me to trust this Word of the 
 living God. I believe it, and there will be converts 
 here to the truth as it is in Jesus. Weak enough is 
 our teaching, and even weaker )-et our life testimony; 
 but even a grain of faith will do to render that little 
 effective, for there is a mighty unseen power behind:
 
 135 ARRIVES IN UGANDA, 
 
 Lord, give us faith. Any we ever have comes from 
 Thee. Give us more. P'aith is the power that moves 
 the liand that moves the universe. It is like the 
 engine-driver's hand, that moves the valve that sets 
 the locomotive a-golng. It is but a small force that 
 is needed to move the lever that opens the valve, 
 but that once moved, the strange invisible power 
 flows in, and the mighty machine is in motion. The 
 highest works of man are but a feeble symbol of the 
 actings of that great unseen power that moves the 
 universe. Yet they form a resemblance, though 
 faint, for " God made man in His own image." 
 
 Sunday, Oct. 12th. — As soon as we had taken out- 
 scats in the chapel, and all the chiefs had got seated, 
 and we were about to begin, Mtesa sent for us to 
 come in to him. First he got all noise stopped, and 
 bade the whole company outside sit as close to the 
 door as possible that they might hear. Then he 
 asked me to read. Prayers being over, I read in 
 Luke ix. the account of the transfiguration, and how 
 our Lord answered the dispute among the disciples, 
 "which of them should be the greatest." I alluded to 
 the claim of the Roman Catholics to Peter's pre-emi- 
 nence, and I hope the bringing of all such questions 
 to the test of the Word of God will be regarded as 
 the only true solution of difficulties. Still, I said, that 
 it was a minor point this one of Pope or no Pope, 
 compared with the all-important one so often dis- 
 cussed — is Jesus the Messiah, the Son of God, or only 
 a prophet ,-' That was the greatest of all questions.
 
 CARVING WOODEN- TYPES. 137 
 
 Yesterday I spent the day in carving wooden types 
 for making reading-sheets. I hope these will be a 
 small beginning in aiding our efforts at diffusing 
 reading and other useful knowledge. 
 
 Monday, i^^th. — All day carving wooden types, 
 which give a good impression in the printing-press. 
 It is slow work, and I have only succeeded in making 
 ten after hours* work. Gave reading lessons all 
 early morning and the afternoon. This is my birth- 
 day, and I find I am now thirty years old. When 
 I look back, it is a life of strange vicissitudes that 
 I have had. Hitherto the Lord hath helped me, and 
 led me in a strange way, notwithstanding my count- 
 less shortcomings. Above all, I bless His great name 
 that I have been spared to reach this place, while 
 so many of my comrades have fallen on the way, and 
 have been privileged to teach the glorious Gospel 
 to the people that have so long been in darkness. 
 Really there is nothing else so well worth living for. 
 Only one score years and ten is a short span, and 
 mine, I fear, cannot be much longer than it is to- da}'. 
 But I am in the hands of my gracious and merciful 
 Father, and His dealings with me have ever been 
 those of love, and I feel certain that the days that 
 remain to me — be they few or be they many — will 
 only overnow with His goodness and mercy. 
 
 Thursday, iGth. — Have given away and taught a 
 host of the alphabets printed from the types I have 
 finished cutting. Pupils increase in number every 
 day ; some learn slowly, some quickly. IMany are
 
 f38 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 getting a knowledge of reading. Writing I am be- 
 ginning to teach on the native-made boards. Paper 
 we cannot afford, as our stock is very small. 
 
 Sunday, \<^tJi. — Went to court, and had service in 
 the chapel. Our lesson was the remainder of Luke 
 ix., and I pressed the audience to consider that they 
 had put their hand now to the plough, and must not 
 look back. Christ gave up His glory to save us ; 
 we must also give up something to be His followers. 
 
 In the early morning I had Kyambalango reading 
 the Suahili Scripture lessons, and all afternoon I 
 have been inundated with visitors, some reading St. 
 Matthew's Gospel, and others spelling out their 
 reading-sheets. Yesterday I had four chiefs in at 
 once, and to-day several also. Another chief began 
 reading with me the other day, and has so far made 
 rapid progress. Most of those that read with me 
 know Suahili pretty well ; in fact, they are the only 
 ones almost that do knov/ it well. 
 
 Sunday, 26tJi. — Went to court, and read prayers 
 and gave them a lesson afterwards on the " Good 
 Samaritan," and the "One thing needful" (Luke x.). 
 One chief had a copy of the Koran, which he was 
 pretending to read, although I know he did not 
 understand. When our service was over, I asked 
 that he should give us the benefit of what he had 
 found in his book. He replied that he had been 
 reading that God was our Father! I explained to 
 the whole audience that such a truth was not in the 
 Koran to my knowledge, as in the creed of Islam
 
 KEEPING THE SABBATH. 139 
 
 Allah was a distant being to fear and dread, and not, 
 as Christ taught us, " our Father and our Friend." 
 That God is love, seems to me the essence of our 
 creed, and I ever like to speak to men of God as 
 being such. 
 
 Afterwards a haraza was held. ]\Itesa was very 
 pleasant, and we had much conversation, in which I 
 spoke decidedly against witchcraft in every form, 
 above all as manifested in such a being as Mukasa, 
 the god ilubare) of the Nyanza, who is at present at 
 Ntebe, and has for some months prevented any 
 canoes from starting for Uganda southwards. Court 
 was quiet, as usual on Sundays, and Mtesa had his 
 Bible and other books before him. I was astonished 
 to hear the judge tell some men who came with a 
 case for trial that he could not hear them to-day, as 
 it was Sabiti. 
 
 Monday, 2'jth. — All day occupied with readers at 
 various stages. Some I hear in the house, while 
 others I take into the workshop and teach them, 
 while I am busy at the vice. Had serious talk to-day 
 with Kyambalango, Munawa, and others, on the evils 
 of polygamy. I fully believe to see an end now to 
 this barbarous custom, which is sapping the life of 
 half the community, especially in the higher circles. 
 
 Thursday, 30//;. — Took with me to court over a 
 dozen sheets of large alphabets, wiiicli we had printed 
 from the types I cut. Mtesa was delighted with 
 them, and distributed them at once among his chiefs 
 and others. He gave me paper to make more of
 
 UO ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 the same, as our stock of stationery is exhausted, 
 except the very little we retain to write to England 
 upon. I find he has had the Suahili service written 
 out by Edi in Arabic characters, and had ordered 
 the same to be written out on boards by all his body 
 guard; chiefs, and pages. Meantime he ordered the 
 boards to be laid aside that they might learn to read 
 the printed alphabets. We hope soon to print the 
 service in Suahili, and to turn out enough copies 
 in our press to serve for many worshippers. 
 
 In the afternoon Mtesa had a regular school, having 
 sent for all his chiefs, soldiers, etc. (of the guard), 
 and those whom we have been teaching, Mukasa,' 
 who has read with me for some months, pleased the 
 king so much by his reading that he was promoted 
 on the spot to be our mutongole, and to look after 
 the chapel and its concerns. Another lad, whom I 
 taught some time ago, named Kadu, and a favourite 
 attendant of the king's, has also been promoted to 
 the rank of sub-chief, and has got a large plantation. 
 
 Nov. \st, 1879. — Food is very hard to get, and many 
 a day I have had to work hard at the vice and lathe 
 to get plantains, which you know stand to us instead 
 of bread. This interferes very much with the time 
 I might have at my disposal for teaching reading 
 and religion ; but somehow or other I get a good deal 
 of that done also, and in a place like this, where the 
 people are above doing any work, my example in 
 
 ' Of course this is r.ot Mukasa the lubare.
 
 HOSTS OF PUPILS. 141 
 
 tlie workshop may not be lost.^ Invariably, when 
 at the bench, I have several pupils reading and 
 spelling out their sheets all the time I work. Even 
 while I am writing this, I have two chiefs in reading, 
 with several of their slaves, who even beat their 
 masters in sharpness. 
 
 We find our work growing in our hands ; and now 
 I can confirm what I said in my last, that the desire 
 to learn is ever increasing among the chiefs and 
 people. Hosts of people come to us every day for 
 instruction — chiefly in reading, of course ; and as we 
 put portions of the Scriptures into their hands as 
 soon as they get over the first difficulties of reading, 
 we have very frequent means of instructing them in 
 the truths of eternity. 
 
 I have cut large types in wood and in lead for 
 our alphabets and reading-sheets, and with a small 
 fount of lead type which we have, we are able to keep 
 our little printing-press constantly going — in fact, 
 we cannot make it keep pace with the demands on 
 us for matter to read. 
 
 Already we are able to put into the hands of 
 the people short pieces in their own language ; and 
 the pleasure we receive in hearing them read these, 
 
 ' " Practical living knowledge is quite as great and surely 
 quite as important as dead tlieories : and without question, he 
 who only knows what is and can be taught in the schools, knows 
 very little. . . . The teacher's practical skill will make a 
 great difference ; in the esteem of the public he will rise not a 
 little.'" — SeidePs Industrial Instruction.
 
 ARRIVES IN UGANDA. 
 
 and understand them makes us feel amply rewarded 
 for the labour we have had hitherto, and encourages 
 us to go on to greater things. 
 
 The first glimpses of our work bearing fruit are 
 also appearing ; and although nothing is so successful 
 as success, and it is success we look for, and so far 
 as we are concerned we should not seek to stop 
 short of its attainment, yet it is only God that can 
 give the increase. 
 
 Wednesday, Nov. ^tJi. — Printed a lot of large-typed 
 -sheets of syllables, and easy words in Luganda. Our 
 fount of these letters is unfortunately incomplete, 
 being only on to p (some dozen or so of each letter), 
 but we have got very good syllables, etc., as far as 
 the letters go. I hope to cast and cut letters for 
 the rest of the alphabet, as the type is very good, 
 and a capital step between the large alphabets, which 
 we print from the wooden blocks, and the small type 
 supplied with the press. 
 
 T/iuj'sday, 6ih. — This day is the anniversary of 
 my arrival at this place. Praised be the good and 
 loving Father of all, who has bestowed on us and on 
 our work so much blessing and prosperity since 
 then, in spite of our imperfect service and our con- 
 stant unfaithfulness. I have much reason to rejoice 
 that matters have turned out as they have done, in 
 spite of the gloomy prospect not many months ago, 
 and the still gloomier forebodings of the members 
 of our mission here.
 
 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS,
 
 " We arc helpers, fellow-creatiircs, 
 
 Of the right against the wrong ; 
 We are earnest-hearted teachers 
 
 Of the truth which maketh strong — 
 Yet do we teach in vain?" 
 
 A Drama of Exile. 
 
 "A new name I am getting here — 'the Anti-Mukasa.' This 
 has no reference, however, to a sofa-cushion ! " — A. M. MacJcay.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 HE A THEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 IN his journal at this time Mackay gives very full 
 and interesting accounts of some of the super- 
 stitious beliefs and practices of the natives ; but the 
 chief interest of these records with most people will 
 be the picture they present of the fervent zeal of 
 Mackay, and the restless energy with which he plies 
 Mtesa and the chiefs, sometimes in open court, and 
 then privately one by one, with arguments to break 
 down their superstitions and to receive the Word 
 of God as their guide. His bold and intelligent 
 appeal to the Scriptures seems to have deeply im- 
 pressed Mtesa, and this habit of referring all ques- 
 tions to the Word of God became in the end the 
 chief factor in the mental and spiritual revolution 
 which in the course of years passed over vast num- 
 bers of the Baganda. 
 
 Sunday, Nov. 30///, 1879. — For our lesson I read 
 and explained the parable of the Great Supper, and 
 tried to make the subject as practical as possible. 
 We did not see the king, but understood that after 
 we left he had an audience, at which only some three 
 or four of the head chiefs w^ere admitted. It is said 
 
 A. M. M. "*■' 10
 
 146 HEATH EM SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 that the main subject of conversation at court is 
 whether Mukasa, the " spa-it," is to come to see 
 Mtesa, or Mtesa be carried to see him. At all events 
 Mukasa has left the Lake, and is now quartered 
 about a mile to the south-west of our shainba. YW< 
 drums every day are a trial to our ears. He is ex- 
 pected to heal the king by a single word ! But he 
 must wait for the new moon before he commences 
 his incantations. 
 
 Sjinday, Dec. "jih. — Went to court, and had prayers 
 in chapel, the place being to-day exceptionally 
 crowded. During prayer, I am happy to say that 
 perfect quiet is preserved, and all, more or less atten- 
 tively kneel and join in worship. I refuse always to 
 commence until the drum-beating outside and other 
 noises are stopped. 
 
 During the lesson which follows, I have not been 
 able to get the attention of more than the half of 
 those present, i.e., those sitting near. This is partly, if 
 not altogether, due to the Katikiro, who is interpreter 
 from Suahili into Luganda, not talking in a suffi- 
 ciently loud voice, so as to be heard by all. Hence 
 those behind take to reading whatever they can get 
 their hands on — alphabets, sheets, gospels, etc. ; and 
 the disturbance thus produced is by no means small. 
 By tact and quiet requests to leave their papers and 
 listen to the lesson, 1 think it will be quite possible 
 to gain the attention of all. To-day I stopped in 
 the middle of the parable — the Prodigal Son — to ask 
 a group, who were spelling out a page of syllables
 
 A NEW PRAYER. 147 
 
 behind, to listen to the story of the lost one found. 
 Had it been anytliing else than a parable, I should 
 have had difficulty in getting their attention ; but 
 the fascinating story triumphed, and I think they 
 learned at last that a prodigal can only get his belly 
 filled with the husks here below, and that the only 
 true satisfying food is from above. 
 
 I read a new prayer to-day in chapel, asking our 
 God to overthrow every device of Satan, and every 
 usurpation of omnipotent power by a wizard, that all 
 men might know that Jehovah is God alone. By the 
 assistance of my pupil teacher (Alukasa), I rendered 
 this carefully into Luganda yesterday ; and the 
 breathless silence which attended my reading of that 
 in chapel, followed by Ainens from all, was striking. 
 May the Almighty hear and answer! I heard several 
 talking about it afterwards, and some came to get me 
 to explain fully what I thought of the liibare. I was 
 hearing the Katikiro and some others rending a 
 cliapter at the time, and had to put off the inquirers. 
 
 After lunch Mtesa sent for seven or eight, but not 
 more, of the chiefs, with myself, and two of the Arabs. 
 He said he had many questions to ask ; and I only 
 hoped some of them were on the witchcraft question. 
 I had my Bible in my hand, and had carefully con- 
 sidered how I might show from the Scriptures the 
 evil of dealings with familiar spirits. 
 
 The king began by saying he had experienced 
 slight earthquakes on three occasions in the present 
 palace, and wished an explanation. Then he had
 
 148 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 q^ucstions about the relative size of the earth, moon, 
 sun, and stars. After these were discussed, I was 
 just about to open the subject of the wizard, when 
 he dismissed the court. May God grant me another 
 occasion to teach His truth on this important ques- 
 tion ! " He that beheveth shall not make haste." 
 His own time will be the best time. May I not fail 
 to redeem it ! 
 
 At present the name Mukasa is in every one's 
 mouth. This morning I met scores of loads of 
 plantains being sent him by the king. Cattle, hens, 
 etc., and women have been also sent him by Mtesa. 
 
 TJmrsday, Dec. iit/i. — This is a day for which I 
 lift up my heart to our gracious Lord and Father for 
 His grace and love. The morning was fine, and, after 
 a couple of hours' teaching, I went to court alone, 
 Baraza was already commenced. After various 
 matters were over, I saw the king was in better spirits 
 than on Sunday, and after an interval of silence, 
 I stepped forward, and sat down before the king. 
 
 I said I wished permission to ask one word of him. 
 Mtesa replied, "Say on." 
 
 " What is a hibarc ? " I asked. The question took 
 all by surprise, some smiling because they knew the 
 folly of the lubares claims ; others made signs of 
 displeasure, because they considered the hibares 
 claims undisputed. Mtesa received my question in 
 good part, and began explaining that the word lubare 
 was equivalent to the word pcpo in Suahili [Jini in 
 Arabic). He then w^ent on to some story about the
 
 FAMILIAR SPIRITS. 149 
 
 remains of his ancestors being preserved by certain 
 persons who were either regarded as holding converse 
 with the departed spirits of the kings, or were them- 
 selves possessed of certain spirits, 
 
 I said that there was no such thing as mediums of 
 the kind, or spirits being represented by living men. 
 Those who said that they possessed familiar spirits 
 were only liars ; that there were many such in 
 Uganda, but the chief of them all was the litbarc — 
 Mukasa. I believed he himself had little confidence 
 in the powers of such pretenders, but I had heard 
 that several of his chiefs had been advising him to go 
 to the liihare to get cured. " I sit before you," I said, 
 "your servant and the servant of Almighty God, and 
 in His name I beg of you have no dealings with this 
 lubare, whether a chief tries to persuade you to do 
 so, or a common man advises you." 
 
 The king assented to my statement, and translated 
 my words to the court. I continued that if this 
 Mukasa is a liibare, then he is a god, and thus there 
 are two gods in Uganda — the Lord God Almighty 
 and Mukasa ; but that if IMukasa is only a man, 
 as many said he was, then there are two kings in 
 Uganda — Mtesa, whom we all acknowledge and 
 honour, and this Mukasa, who gives himself out as 
 some great one. 
 
 Mtesa caught my meaning at once, and translated 
 again to the court. He said that he was intending 
 to hold a council of his chiefs with a view of coming 
 to some resolution on the matter. I said that now
 
 ISO IIEATIIEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 was the time, for if he did not believe in the Inhare, 
 as being an enemy to God's truth, he could soon 
 bring the chiefs to see the absurdity of the preten- 
 sions of this fellow. 
 
 The king then commenced questioning the chiefs. 
 "What is a lubare?" Answer, '' Maandzva" {lit. 3. 
 bull, called so from the immoral life they lead). 
 "What is J/(t(?//<yzcv??" Answer, " J/^/Zc?^^" (a wizard 
 or sorcerer). " Wliat is a Mttlogo ? " Answer, 
 " Mjintu ' (a man). " Then if he is a man he is not 
 a Iiibare, for a hibare is a spirit, or god." I was de- 
 lighted to leave the king himself thus to discuss the 
 matter. The Mussulmans repeatedly tried to inter- 
 rupt me, and even the king, by their talk ; for, al- 
 though they oppose all belief in other gods except 
 Allah, yet they have faith in genii, etc. They were 
 ordered to keep silence, however; and what I stated 
 further tended to attract their assent rather than their 
 opposition to my statements. 
 
 I said that this Mukasa was practically causing 
 rebellion in the country, for he disobeyed Mtesa's 
 orders, and asserted his right over the Lake as before 
 that of the king. It was more than five months 
 since he (Mtesa) had ordered his traders (the Arabs) 
 to be supplied with boats to go to Usukuma, yet 
 these traders were not yet able to start, by Mukasa's 
 counter-orders. This was a state of things that should 
 not be allowed to exist. In the Book of God I was 
 prepared to show him that both in the Old and New 
 Testaments all sorcerers were denounced as liars, and
 
 THE KING ASKED TO CHOOSE. 
 
 were ranked in the lowest scale of iniquity. IMoscs 
 commanded them to be put to death. In our own 
 country, in times past, they were put to the stake. 
 But we did not as Christians sanction such a severe 
 measure, nor did we come here to advise the shedding 
 of blood ; but still, on looking at the express com- 
 mand of God as stated in His Book, we did advise 
 that every man who deceived people into believing 
 that he was possessed of a spirit should be ordered 
 to cease such deception, and if he chose to continue 
 it, he should be sent to prison. Those men were 
 great liars, and Mukasa, as the head luharc, was the 
 greatest liar, and the greatest rebel in the country, 
 
 Mtesa seemed rather delighted at the decidedness 
 with which I spoke, and translated everything, even 
 recurring to the other way I put it — "if Mukasa is a 
 god, we have two gods; if he is a man, then there 
 are two kings here." Those who at first were inclined 
 to defend the evil genius had at length nothing to 
 say for him. The Katikiro mentioned that Lukonge 
 called himself god of the south end of the Lake. One 
 of the Arabs recommended waiting a couple of days 
 to see what Mukasa had to say for himself. " What 
 was to be done ? " was the question. 
 
 "Lukonge," I said, "is a heathen, and knows not 
 God." "But I know God," Mtesa responded. "Yes, 
 it is because you know God, and I believe wish to 
 serve Him, that I now ask you to choose one or the 
 other, and not honour an enemy of God. In all his- 
 tory we read that God was with ever}' king that
 
 152 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 feared Him, while those who went astray after other 
 gods came to an end of shame. God lias said, 
 ' Them that honour Me, I will honour ; but those 
 that despise Me shall be lightly esteemed.' " 
 
 Some loads of plantains, etc., were at this moment 
 presented, and other disturbances arising, Mtesa gave 
 me to understand that the subject should drop for 
 the time, but he should attend to what I had said. 
 I thanked him, and retired to my seat. 
 
 There was some talk afterwards about his sickness, 
 and about the rumour of a white woman having come 
 alone from the coast unarmed, and commencing to 
 settle in Ukerewe. The king also said that he had 
 heard of an old man (an Englishman) being on the 
 way from Zanzibar to Uganda.^ 
 
 When court was dismissed, I had many a friendly 
 shake of the hand with the chiefs ; and while I was 
 greeting, with perhaps more than usual frankness, 
 those I thought were the strongest advocates of the 
 lubare, I was pleased to find that they seemed quite 
 friendly, although some of them gave me the curious 
 look of those Avho felt that I had gained a victory 
 over them. The Katikiro was especially polite, and 
 told me that he had found my runaway boy, and 
 would have him sent back to me. I had not said a 
 word to him on the subject, as I fancied his head 
 slave had determined to keep my boy, and I did not 
 like to press the matter. 
 
 » This micrht have been Dr. Mullens.— //. M. M.
 
 READERS AT ALL HOURS. 
 
 Chimbugwe, the chief who if over all the king's 
 household, and is his more constant companion than 
 any other, asked me for a Gospel. I sent him one 
 afterwards. (St. John is the only Suahili book I 
 had a number of.) 
 
 On the way home I called on Sembuzi, who gave 
 me a present of a load of Indian corn in cobs. I 
 told him a little of the talk at baraza, and he allowed 
 me to carry away his principal charm — a miniature 
 shield and spear. 
 
 Yesterday I sent to the king two pairs of steel 
 pincers, which one of the coastmen had made him 
 some time ago, but which were so roughly done that 
 Mtesa sent me them to finish. I hope he is now 
 satisfied with them. 
 
 Readers in at all hours. This week I have many 
 new ones. If I get an hour or two at any time in the 
 workshop, I generally have some one reading with 
 me while I work at the vice or forge. 
 
 Much I feel my feebleness in trying to teach the 
 truth of God to the king and his people. But no 
 word of man, however strong, can prevail against the 
 great powers of evil. Only the Spirit of the living 
 God working in the hearts of all can effect that wh.ich 
 we desire to see — the overthrow of evil, and tlic 
 establishment of the kingdom of Christ in this land. 
 God give us faith to pray for that believingly ! 
 
 Sunday, Dec. i^tk. — The day was very fine, and 
 many were present at service. After prayers, instead 
 of our usual reading in St. Luke, I turned up the
 
 154 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 Scriptures from Exodus to Revelation, reading a host 
 of passages to show the mind of God towards dealers 
 in witchcraft. The laws of God to Moses, the example 
 of Saul and Ahaziah, the manifestation of our Lord 
 to destroy the works of the devil, the Acts of the 
 Apostles — especially the case of Elymas — the works 
 of the flesh contrasted with the fruits of the Spirit in 
 Gal. v., and, finally, the list of those who may not 
 enter through the gates of the heavenly city (Rev. 
 xxii. 15), All these I read in order, having previously 
 written out the passages in Suahili. 
 
 I had wonderful attention to-day — much more than 
 usual. This was partly due to Chambalango acting 
 as interpreter, as he is much better heard than the 
 Katikiro. The subject was a very practical one 
 besides, especially at present. 
 
 I was gratified to hear one of the chiefs say that 
 the list of passages read was enough to set the matter 
 at rest, and there could be no more dispute as to the 
 unlawfulness of witchcraft. 
 
 The other day, when Mukwenda was in, he of his 
 own accord cut off two charms he was wearing on his 
 arms, and gave them to me. He did so as a proof 
 that he has no faith in the hihare. 
 
 Sunday, 21st. — Held prayers in perfect quietness. 
 Before commencing, I had a sober talk with the 
 audience on witchcraft. The chiefs seemed to me to 
 be somewhat ashamed of their belief in this absurd 
 pretender — Mukasa. 
 
 After prayers, instead of reading and explaining a
 
 DECORUM IN WORSHIP. 
 
 chapter as usual, I made a sort of introductory lecture, 
 as being close on Christmas Day. I went over the 
 history of God's dealings with man, from the fall to 
 the New Testament era. I tried especially to show 
 the provision which the Lord has made for ever-sin- 
 ning man, by the great sacrifice of His own Son. I 
 explained also how even the chosen nation at all 
 times fell into idolatry, and God had finally to cause 
 them to cease to be a nation at all. 
 
 One or two fellows who were laughing and making 
 a disturbance in a corner were repeatedly reproved 
 by the others, and I was glad when they left. 
 The general feeling is in favour of decorum during 
 our lesson, although their notions of decorum are 
 loose enough. It will only be when the Lord makes 
 His love felt in their hearts that there will be the 
 proper reverence paid to His word and ordinances. 
 Yet I believe even our feeblest efforts are blessed 
 more or less. It is not the manifest amount of reve- 
 rence or attention that is the real measure of the 
 amount of good effected. "The kingdom of God 
 Cometh not with observation." 
 
 Last night I heard that the king had given orders 
 to a lot of chiefs to build hurriedly some houses within 
 the court for Mukasa. I did not take much notice 
 of the report, except to ask Koluji — a ]\Iutongoh 
 who had always been a great friend of mine — if the 
 story was true. He told me that he had heard 
 nothing about it, and that he had been unwell. 
 
 On my way home I met one of my pupils (a lad),
 
 156 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 who told me that yesterday all the chiefs had supplied 
 men to build three houses for Mukasa in the king's 
 inner court, and that they had worked late by moon- 
 light to have them finished, against the arrival of the 
 Inbare on Monday morning. 
 
 I felt my heart overflow with sadness at this. I 
 had pleaded earnestly in court ten days before against 
 the folly of witchcraft. Last Sunday I had turned 
 up passage after passage in the Bible, and shown from 
 the Word of God that witchcraft is sinful, and to 
 leave the worship of the Almighty to follow lies, is to 
 err exceedingly. Sore was my heart with disappoint- 
 ment now to find no better result than if I had said 
 nothing on the subject at all. 
 
 After a mouthful of breakfast I set off to visit 
 several of those chiefs who, I believe, were most open 
 to conviction on the subject. 
 
 I first called on Kyambalango, and saw him 
 privately. I expressed my deep sorrow at the deter- 
 mination of the court to receive this deceiver with all 
 honour, especially after he and many of the chiefs, 
 and the king himself, had expressed to me their belief 
 that the lubai'e was a liar and impostor. Kyamba- 
 lango said he knew I was right, and that they were 
 doing wrong. He said he would come to me next 
 morning at dawn, when we should consult as to how 
 the evil might yet be checked. (He did not keep 
 his word, however, for he neither came to me next 
 morning, nor did I sec him afterwards at court.) 
 
 Next I went up to the palace. In the usual outer
 
 REBUKES LYING. 
 
 court I found a few sub-chiefs, and among them 
 Munakulya and Koluji. I said to Koluji that it 
 was not only unfriendly in him to have said he knew 
 nothing about the building, but it was sinful to say 
 he knew nothing about it, when he had actually been 
 engaged on the work. The others present laughed at 
 the exposing of Koluji's falsehood. I told them all 
 that I knew they felt ashamed at having built houses 
 for this Mukasa, who, I had often told them, was a 
 deceiver. But, I said, they had done no wrong, and 
 had acted perfectly right in obeying the king's order. 
 They were bound to do exactly as he said. Only to 
 deny having done so was to lie, and that was quite 
 in keeping with the Inbarc, whom they respected so 
 much ; but it was a sin against God. 
 
 I then went to see the Katikiro. As usual, he was 
 buried in his harem, and I did not find him. I went 
 through a lot of his private courts, and found in one 
 a lot of charms, consisting of a miniature fence of 
 reeds a metre long, and about a metre high, \\vA\ 
 three miniature shields, and some branches of wands 
 tied to a small tree. 
 
 Next I called on Sekibobo, the greatest chief, except 
 Mukwenda, who is only a lad. He received me very 
 kindly, and asked me to help him to read a page or 
 two of a Suahili hymn-book he had. I spoke to 
 him about the folly of mixing up the worship of 
 Jehovah with that of a man who lived by deceiving 
 people. In the morning he had listened attentively 
 in chapel when I spoke about the same — how they
 
 158 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 joined in worshipping God on one day in the week, 
 and reverenced a servant of the devil on other days. 
 Sekibobo denied having had any share in building 
 the houses for the luhare, or in bringing him here. 
 
 He presented me with a huge goat, which I asked 
 him to delay sending till to-morrow, as the day 
 was Sunday, while I promised to give him what he 
 urgently asked strongly for — a larger Suahili book. 
 
 Next I called on Kago. He was, as usual, very 
 friendly, and told me also that he knew nothing of 
 the buildings for the liibare last night in the palace 
 grounds. We had a deal of talk on the nothingness 
 of charms, which he wears in abundance on his per- 
 son, while over his door a few score are suspended. 
 I was offered a goat, but declined till next day. 
 
 On my way home I called on Sembuzi, and after- 
 wards on Wakibi. They, like all the rest, have 
 nothing to say in defence of the pretended wizard. 
 I came home at dark pretty well tired. 
 
 I have laid the matter earnestly before the Lord 
 God in prayer, that He may open the dark eyes of 
 their understanding, and teach them by His own 
 Spirit that He is God alone. 
 
 JMomiay, 22nd. — This is another day for which I 
 have much reason to praise the Lord, while I have 
 been taught it is not of man, nor by the will of man, 
 but by the Spirit of God alone, that men's hearts arc 
 moved. I got the Katikiro to promise to send my 
 letters to the Frenchman, who I found liad started 
 half an hour before.
 
 USES HIS OPPORTUNITY. 159 
 
 I chaffed him about his charms which I saw in 
 his court yesterday afternoon. He pretended to 
 know nothing of them ! Of course I could not say 
 he was a liar, although to have said so would be the 
 truth, I only said, "When we return from court 
 I shall come with you, and show you where the 
 charms are, and you can throw them away ! " 
 
 On my way to court I heard many people laugh- 
 ing, some in scorn at me, and others merely from the 
 amusement in prospect. They spoke among them- 
 selves about the chances being small that I should 
 gain admittance. 
 
 After w^aiting some time with the chiefs in the 
 ordinary court, Mtesa opened baraaa, and, although 
 the crush was great, we all got in. Lourdel pre- 
 sented the king with a gun and some powder and 
 shot. A native produced a gun (two-barrelled), the 
 stock of which had been carved by himself with the 
 boar's head exactly after the pattern of the Belgian 
 guns. It was wonderfully well fitted and carved. 
 
 A very few minutes after we were seated, I rose 
 and sat down in front of the king, I thought it well 
 to commence at once, as then there was little 
 chance of Mtesa taking it into his head to dismiss 
 court to save discussing a difficult subject. Lourdel 
 was close by me all the time, and Pearson ^ was on 
 a stool behind. I was, of course, squatting like a 
 tailor on the floor, as all the chiefs and Arabs do. 
 
 ' One of three gentlemen who joined the Mission, by the 
 Nile route, Feb. 14th, 1S79.
 
 i6o HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 Mtesa seemed to know what I meant to talk about, 
 and I felt not a little encouraged by his giving orders 
 for all music and other noises outside to cease at 
 once. 
 
 I began by asking if it was now his pleasure that 
 I should cease teaching the Word of God at court on 
 Sundaj's. He said, " No ; not by any means." I said 
 that now he and his chiefs had made up their minds 
 to bring to stay at court the liibare, whom he (Mtesa) 
 allowed to me the other day to be a deceiver, that 
 I had no right to interfere with his orders or whom 
 he chose as his guest ; only this visitor, for whom 
 preparations were made, was no ordinary guest, but 
 was looked up to by the people as possessed of 
 powers which belonged to God alone ; that we could 
 not mix up the worship of God Almighty with the 
 worship of a man who was the enemy of God. Mtesa 
 listened attentively, and then said to his chiefs, " Do 
 you hear what Mackay says .^ He says that we 
 cannc t bring the lubarc here without offending God." 
 One of the chiefs replied that the liibare was only 
 coming with medicine to heal the king. I replied 
 that the lubare was not merely a doctor, but was 
 looked up to by all as a wizard, and as being able to 
 heal people by enchantment. Mtesa allowed that 
 I was right, and said he knew very well that this 
 Mukasa was coming to use witchcraft. I said further 
 that we should only be delighted if Mukasa could 
 cure the king, and neither I nor any one else could 
 obicrt to his bringing medicine for that purpose.
 
 THE KING ASSENTS. i6i 
 
 Tlic king went on to say that Gabunga (chief on the 
 Lake) had come some time ago to say that Mukasa 
 was able to cure him. " Bring his medicine, then," 
 said Mtesa. Jumba brought some ; but said it was 
 of no use unless the lubare was present himself to 
 perform the cure. " This and that other fellow," 
 continued Mtesa, " says that he is a Maandiva, and 
 that the spirit of my ancestors lias gone into them ; 
 but do you think I believe that ? " I said that I 
 believed he had more sense than to believe anything 
 of the kind ; for when a man dies, his soul returns 
 to God, so that these fellows were only liars, and 
 deceived the people. The king replied, " What you 
 say, Mackay, is perfectly true, and I know that all 
 witchcraft is falsehood." I thanked him for this 
 statement, but the Katikiro and other chiefs showed 
 themselves very ill-pleased. They saw no harm in 
 the Inbarc being received with all honour. lie would 
 make medicine which they would hang up in the 
 palace-houses, as Mukasa was a great medicine- 
 man. I repeated that medicine was an excellent 
 thing, but it was not medicine that Mukasa got 
 so great a name for, or that they regarded him as a 
 Inbarc for ; but that he was a great diviner, and wished 
 the people to believe him a god. 
 
 The king assented again strongly to this, and 
 called forward one of the coast men — Ramathan — 
 who is said to be an Afghan from Cabool. (There 
 is a Belooch also at court — a gathering of nations 
 here !) Ramathan at first saw that the king was 
 
 A. iM. M. 1 1
 
 l62 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 assenting to my statements, so he also assented, and 
 said that if this lubare were able to cure the king, 
 he should have done so long ago, as Mtesa had now 
 been ill for two years. 
 
 After further talk, when he saw that the chiefs 
 were strongly in favour of the lubare, Ramathan 
 veered over to their side, and said that, as raw flesh 
 of a day old did not ever corrupt anything, there 
 could be no harm done in letting the lubare settle 
 in the palace for a day or two. 
 
 I said that I could not hinder the king having the 
 lubare as many days at court as he liked, only I 
 found it my duty to tell him that his encouraging 
 this false person would have a powerful effect in the 
 country in confirming the faith of the people in 
 witchcraft, in which he (Mtesa) himself did not be- 
 lieve. I took my stand on the Word of God, which 
 said that all who used witchcraft were enemies of 
 God. 
 
 Mtesa said that he did not know what to do, as 
 his mother and her friends were the main advocates 
 of the lubare, and it was they who first advised him 
 (Mtesa) being carried to see the wizard ; and when 
 he declined, on the ground of sickness, they got him 
 to have the wizard brought here. He did not know 
 how to get out of the fix, for he knew that it was 
 wrong, yet his mother's people wished it. I replied 
 that we were ready to show all honour and respect 
 to his mother and relations, but God was greater 
 than all ; and I advised him to choose which he would
 
 CONSULTS THE QUEEN-MOTHER. 163 
 
 serve. I had no more to say, and soon after the 
 king dismissed the court. 
 
 I left, feeling that I had the king's ear, but that 
 several of the chiefs were strongly opposed to me. 
 
 Before court broke up, the king called forward 
 Kago and another chief — both great advocates of 
 the hibare — and deputed them to go to his mother 
 and the other old women (aunts, etc.), and say that 
 he (Mtesa) did not wish to have the lubare brought to 
 court, but that he wished to hear what they had to say. 
 
 In the afternoon, when Mufta was with me, he 
 was sent for by the king, who was holding another 
 court. I believe that Kitunzi was there present, and 
 advising the king strongly against having anything 
 more to do with the white man's religion, as it was 
 only a preliminary step to taking the country that 
 we were now teaching. Ramathan was also present, 
 and was talking much against us. 
 
 Mufta was told to leave, and go back to me, which 
 he did. A third baraza was held in the evening, but 
 what transpired I do not know. 
 
 Tuesday, 2'^rd. — This morning Mukwcnda told 
 Lourdel that the king had said he would kill any 
 boys who came again to learn reading here. I 
 doubted the truth of the king having said so, for 
 Mukwenda is himself a mere boy, and has no say at 
 court ; although some of the chiefs had probably 
 said that they wished no more teaching by us. One 
 or two lads were reading, however, with me this 
 morning, and others last night till after dark.
 
 l64 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 Soon after eight o'clock a messenger came, saying 
 that the king called us all to court. 
 
 When we were seated I was called forward, and 
 Kago and a woman were brought in. The king 
 said that the result of Kago's mission was that this 
 woman, (his aunt, I believe), had been sent to bring 
 me to the council of the king's mother, and others 
 of the family of Suma, that I might explain to them 
 why I refused to allow the king to see the hibare. 
 
 I replied that I would not go to explain at any 
 other court than this ; that I did not refuse to allow 
 the king to sec the hibare, only as a servant of God 
 I had warned him of the sin of witchcraft ; that I 
 used no force, and had told the king yesterday that 
 it was my place to tell him the truth, while he was 
 free to follow or reject my advice. 
 
 The chiefs — especially the Katikiro — all set to 
 talking a deal, after which I saw that the king was 
 afraid of acting contrary to them. Mtesa then gave 
 a verdict which pleased them all, for they nyanai^grd 
 boldly after he said it. He said that now they would 
 leave both the Arab's religion and the Muzungu's 
 religion, and would go back to the religion of their 
 fathers ! 
 
 I was asked why we came here, and what wc came 
 to do. I replied that we came in response to his 
 own request to Stanley, that he wished white men 
 to come and stop with him, and teach his people the 
 knowledge of God. He said that he understood 
 that we came to teach them how to make powder
 
 THE KING IS ANGRY. 165 
 
 and guns, and what he wanted was men who would do 
 so. I said that we did not understand that, and that 
 our first work was to teach the Word of God, and 
 how to read it. He repHed that, if to teach that was 
 our main object, then we were not to teach any 
 more. He wanted us to work for him. I said that 
 we never had refused to do any work he wished us 
 to do ; and that everything he had asked to be done, 
 I had done. There was scarcely a chief present, I 
 said, for whom I had not done work. I showed my 
 hands, which were black with working in iron every 
 day for these very chiefs who were saying we would 
 not work for them. They said that they wanted us 
 to stop teaching to read, and to do work only for 
 them and the king. I replied that we came for no 
 such purpose ; and if he wished that, then we could 
 not stay. " Where will you go ? " " We shall go 
 back to England." 
 
 Then he said that when Lieut. Smith came, he 
 brought a letter from the Queen saying that we had 
 come to do work for him. I asked the letter to be 
 produced. It was brought. The Arabs tried to read 
 the Arabic version, and I\Iufta tried to read the 
 Suahili ; but both failed. I then read the Suahili 
 version myself, and pointed out that to teach the 
 Word of God was stated to be the first object of 
 our being here. I also pointed out that the letter 
 was not from the Queen, but from men v>ho were 
 engaged in sending the Word of God to every land. 
 
 He asked me if we taught Said Eurgash. I
 
 i66 NEAT//EN' SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 replied that the missionaries in Zanzibar settled there 
 by Burgash's permission ; not to teach him by force, 
 but to teach any of his people that chose to be 
 taught. That what we wanted here was not to 
 introduce Christianity into his country by force, but 
 hberty to teach any of his people that wished to be 
 taught, and liberty for any of his people to embrace 
 Christianity that wished. 
 
 The Katikiro said that they wanted white men 
 to make guns, and caps, and powder. They wanted 
 us to bring them guns innumerable as grass, etc., 
 etc. 
 
 I could only say that there were plenty of people 
 in England who would come and sell such things, 
 and there were others who would make them ; but 
 we came only to teach the knowledge of God. All 
 other work which we did, I said, we did out of 
 friendship, because they wanted it, and not as ful- 
 filling the end for which we came. Such-like talk 
 went on for an hour or two, after which the court 
 was dismissed. 
 
 To-day was a scene in which the heathen raged 
 and the people imagined vain things. They have 
 decided for a sorcerer instead of the Lord of glory. 
 It is heartrending to think of this result of more 
 than two and a half years' teaching of Christianity 
 at this court. To-day the chiefs followed each other 
 like sheep, yet I am convinced that several present 
 would have chosen quite the contrary were they not 
 afraid of each other. The Lord will bring good out
 
 THE LUBARE TRIUMPHS. 167 
 
 of evil, and tbis decision of to-day will only redound 
 to the firmer planting of His kingdom in this land. 
 I do not feel discouraged — only disappointed for the 
 time. No power can stand against that of the Cross 
 of Christ. 
 
 One result I should rejoice to see, viz., to have 
 permission to work only among the common, people, 
 and let the court alone. When I asked this to-day, 
 the idea was scouted. It seemed that the chiefs 
 themselves sav/ the absurdity, or rather danger, of 
 the common people [bakopi) being taught Christi- 
 anity, while they themselves stuck to their idols and 
 witchcraft. 
 
 It appears that the idol Nend-:, or, at any rate, its 
 guardian angel, Kajugujive, and also the third god, 
 Kibuka, are also to be settled with Mukasa in the 
 huts just built in the palace inner court. It is a 
 terrible dovvncome to return to such follies, but the 
 Israelites of old did so likewise. 
 
 Meantime we mean to keep quiet, God sparing us, 
 until the present storm blows over. Let the old 
 gods have their way ; it will not be for long, and 
 I know it cannot satisfy the hearts of these people. 
 
 Wednesday, 24///. — Before dawn I was wakened 
 by a terrible beating of drums in the neighbourhood. 
 I got up, and looked out in a dense fog. I gathered 
 at once that it was the procession of the litbarc 
 going to the palace. 
 
 The sound of the drums got nearer, and the united 
 shrill cries of hundreds of women became more
 
 1 68 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 distinct, and then faded away as the great procession 
 turned up the highway to the king's. I felt reHeved 
 that the party had not to pass our sliamba, for who 
 knows what a capricious and fanatical mob might 
 have done on a moment's impulse ? But I retired 
 into my house with the feeling that we were in the 
 hands of our loving Father, v/ho will not allow a 
 hair of our heads to perish, 
 
 I afterwards learned that the Iiibare put up at the 
 house of Gabunga (head chief on the Lake), who 
 is now at the capital, till mid-da}', when he was re- 
 ceived at the palace. The king was removed from 
 his ordinary house, and seated in the main court, 
 where the three huts were built for the three deities. 
 By some reports, ]\Itesa and his wives alone were 
 inside the house, the Katikiro sitting in the doorway, 
 and all the other chiefs sitting outside, while the 
 lubare also sat outside near the door, the other two 
 deities sitting near him. 
 
 All agree in saying that a vast quantity (400 large 
 kitas) of beer was consumed by the hibare and 
 chiefs, Mtcsa scarcely touching the liquor ; that the 
 king sat silent all the time, while the lubare sang. 
 Some say that Mtesa paid little attention to the 
 hibare, but called forward the JlTaandzvas (small sor- 
 cerers, etc.) to play and dance before him. Few were 
 near enough to know anything that the lubare said 
 or sung; but one man (Toli) says that he predicted 
 war in the country from the presence of strangers, 
 not now, perhaps, but within four or five years.
 
 IMPOTENCE OF CHARMS. 1G9 
 
 Sunday, 2^th. — Early sent for to see Kaitabalwa, 
 who is ill. 
 
 Several subs were present, and all having on 
 charms, which they said were for snakes. I gave 
 him a lesson on the impotence of such things com- 
 pared with the power of the great Creator, One 
 of them had a very bad head ; and as he maintained 
 that a charm was effective for snakes, I bade him 
 try a charm to cure his head. I picked up a few 
 bits of things, and tied them in a bundle, as the 
 dealers in witchcraft do, and asked him to believe 
 that that would cure him. " Here is a piece of cane," 
 I said, " which God made ; here is a piece of liibiigu 
 (bark cloth) which God also made, and here is a 
 piece of plantain fibre which God alone made. I tie 
 these things together, and although before, you 
 trampled them under foot, now they have a saving 
 power ! " There was much laughter at this, and 
 one of the party cut off his charm on his arm. He 
 afterwards asked me for medicine for his bronchitis, 
 and I brought him here and gave him a cough 
 mixture. 
 
 My lads came down after mid-day, and IMukasa 
 read a few Suahili Psalms (including Psalm ii.) with 
 me. He says that Sekibobo and IMukwenda, with 
 a few subs and many people, came and sat in the 
 chapel for a long time this forenoon. The king sent 
 out to know if I had come. 
 
 All this strongly confirms my opinion that the 
 decision come to in full court last Tuesday was not
 
 I70 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 final. The king and some chiefs evidently expect 
 us to continue our teaching as before. My boys 
 being allowed to come unhindered every day cer- 
 tainly does not look like as if a very strong veto 
 had been put on our continuing our work. It was 
 all, I think, a strong efifort that a very few old chiefs 
 made to bring pressure to bear on the king to make 
 him recognise their old gods. I am sure Mtesa will 
 feel much ashamed of the last week's performance. 
 May God forgive his want of courage to confess Him, 
 and give him and such of his people as are disposed 
 to believe, grace not to be ashamed of the Saviour's 
 name ! 
 
 Wednesday, jist. — They say Mtesa refused to see 
 the company of Maandivas, i.e., wizards and witches, 
 to-day, because the cure that was expected to be 
 wrought on him by the mere presence of the head 
 Maandiva (Mukasa) has failed. He therefore con- 
 sidered the whole an imposture, and would have no 
 more of them. Would to God that it may be so 
 regarded by Mtesa and all the rest ! 
 
 Mukasa is said to have decamped and gone back 
 to the Lake. ]\Iay this be the last of that vile 
 power ! 
 
 Thus the year closes. The old serpent has tried 
 again to bruise the heel of the seed of promise, but 
 the head of the enemy will soon be destroyed by the 
 power of the Lord our Righteousness. 
 
 Friday, Jan. 2nd, iS8o. — This morning early, com- 
 menced to translate St Matthew's Gospel into Lu-
 
 KNOWLEDGE OF MEDICIXE. 
 
 ganda. Finished the first chapter. A perfect host 
 of difficulties present themselves at almost every 
 step. It will take very long indeed before they can 
 all be met in any translation. 
 
 ]\Iay the same Holy Spirit who inspired the Word 
 at first, cleanse my heart and hands in this work, and 
 sanctify it to the glory of my Lord and Master Jesus 
 Christ ! 
 
 Sewed up wounded hand of woman, and gave 
 various medicines to other invalids. It has struck 
 me at this time more forcibly than ever before, that 
 all missionaries should have a good knowledge of 
 surgery and medicine, or at least have one of their 
 number in each station qualified to take in hand 
 any disease or accident. It is the fact that all 
 native gods and sorcerers are cure-workers, and all 
 medicine-men looked up to as being possessed of 
 more than natural powers, that leads me to see the 
 great influence in favour of Christianity that a 
 medical mission can exert, if prudently conducted. 
 
 Thursday, 2C)th. — Several mornings Mukasa and 
 I have been translating the fifth chapter of St. 
 Matthew. 
 
 I heard the other day that Mtesa said to the 
 chiefs a day or two ago, "Why are you not going 
 on with reading? You are only living for this world, 
 and trying to amass riches. You had better prepare 
 for the world to come. Here are white men who 
 have come from Europe to teach you /cu scmcsha 
 (to teach religion). Why do not you learn ?"
 
 172 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 He then asked all round who could read, and who 
 could not, bringing in all pages and other lads about 
 the grounds. A lot of sheets of syllables, etc., and 
 short sentences, which I gave him several months 
 ago, he now gave out to chiefs and others who had 
 not already got them. 
 
 This is certainly so far encouraging, especially 
 after the action taken by the court at Christmas. 
 Several have since then been here begging alphabets, 
 etc. For the first time since Christmas Kyamba- 
 lango came to see us last night. Other chiefs also 
 are coming about. God has heard our prayers, and 
 He has been working in the heart of the rulers of 
 this country without any intervention on our part. 
 Oh, for wisdom to know rightly how to improve our 
 opportunity ! 
 
 What is the meaning of this "devil possession" 
 so much believed in here } Every Maandiva, or 
 priest of a liibare^ is at times said to have his (or her) 
 liibare in the head, or to be possessed {asainidc). 
 I remember well on my last visit to Buzongora, at 
 Kaitaba's, on going into a house on the arrival of 
 our canoes at Bumbire, a woman appeared just 
 inside the door on her hands and knees, having a 
 child strapped on her back. She pushed her lips 
 back and presented two jaws of teeth like a growling 
 lion, and without uttering an articulate word, growled 
 at me like a wild beast. This was to prevent me 
 entering the hut. Some Basese who came with me, 
 carrying my boxes, ran off in terror. I went in,
 
 DEVIL POSSESSION. 
 
 nevertheless ; but seeing the hut too wretched for 
 my accommodation, I went off to seek another. 
 Some time after, I returned to sec if she were still 
 there, but she was gone. 
 
 Every dead king has a Maandwa, who makes all 
 believe that the spirit of the late monarch has 
 entered into him, or does so periodically. On these 
 occasions he raves frightfully, talking in a strange 
 falsetto voice, when people bring pots of viwenge 
 (beer), for the mnziinit- (spirit of the departed) is 
 believed not to eat, but to drink plentifully. 
 
 That iiuich of all this is downright imposition on 
 the credulity of the superstitious people is certain, 
 but it remains to be proved that all is imposition. 
 Doubtless, as among all primitive and semi-civilized, 
 as in savage nations, many forms of mania and other 
 diseases have been ever believed to be due to the 
 presence or influence of some Zaiixwv; so here, certain 
 persons, at times suffering from mental disorder, have 
 come to be regarded in their fits as possessed. These 
 would easily come to believe themselves to be at 
 such times under the influence of an unseen spirit, 
 or a luhare. Others, seeing the immunity they 
 possessed from danger of apprehension, as also their 
 means of securing gifts from their superstitious 
 neighbours, readily learned to imitate the actions 
 of madmen, with the purpose of gaining respect, 
 or rather dread, and offerings of cattle, fowls, and 
 beer. Thus the system of deception has grown, and 
 with its growth become more exacting and insolent.
 
 174 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 When a Maandzva dies, another, generally from 
 among his followers, at once takes his place ; while, 
 whenever a king or queen dies, sure enough soon 
 after, a JSIaandiva appears who apes the voice of the 
 deceased, and professes to be possessed of the 
 viuzimii (soul) of the dead sovereign. The manu- 
 facture and sale of charms eke out the means of 
 subsistence of such false prophets, who invariably- 
 dress in only goat-skins, white or black, and carry 
 a club of crooked wood, ornamented with iron knobs 
 and bells. 
 
 The Balaguai (prophets or diviners) arc a different 
 crew from these Maaiidzva, or priests. They dress 
 similarly, but never appear without a huge bundle of 
 inayenibe, or magic horns, great iron bells, and a 
 file of leather flaps, by the shuffling of which they 
 divine and soothsay. Their main work seems to be 
 the detection of thieves, when they sit in front of 
 the suspected, with faces smeared over with ashes, 
 and listen to the evidence attentively, at the same 
 time keenly watching for any signs of nervous fear 
 of detection among the accused. Not only the 
 highest chiefs and king himself regularly employ 
 these detectives in cases of loss by theft, but con- 
 demn to death the persons pointed out by them ; 
 while even the most fanatical IMoslems here have 
 recourse to these charm-workers, when any loss of 
 property occurs! 
 
 Even our religion is looked upon by many, if not 
 all, as only another sort of witchcraft. I have heard
 
 SACRED PLACES. 175 
 
 them always speak of Islam and Christianity as 
 being merely new kinds of customs or practices 
 {ngere), while they call our Book a charm, or jeiiibe 
 {i.e., idol) — " strange gods " ! 
 
 Among themselves the greatest inexactness and 
 ignorance prevails as to the powers, ranks, and offices 
 of the different Inbarcs which they worship. Some 
 Balubare are good, and some bad ; but all need gifts 
 to propitiate their wrath. There are also Maandzva 
 of Katonda (the Creator) ; but they are never spoken 
 of, and being little known, their influence is nowhere. 
 
 Tvlany natives have told me that Katonda and the 
 hihare are one and the same ; but those who profess 
 to know better, affirm that when Katonda created 
 (Jcu tonda, to create) all things, he handed over the 
 government and preservation of everything to the 
 liibare, who is therefore feared and worshipped by all. 
 Thus they divide the God of creation from the God of 
 providence. But as in old Greek and Latin mytho- 
 logy, each phenomenon of nature has its own separate 
 divinity, or lubare, — e.g., food, famine, rain, ivar, 
 thunder, earthquake, plague, smallpox, etc. ; — while 
 some living creatures, especially serpent and parrot, 
 are worshipped, as well as any monstrosity in nature, 
 e.g., a hollow tree, a strangely shaped rock, etc. I 
 know of a rocky islet in the Lake that is devoutly 
 worshipped, as also a wooded hill near the capital, 
 on which not a tree is allowed to be cut, under the 
 belief that ill-luck will attend the builders and owners 
 of any house the posts of which come from there.
 
 176 HEATHEN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 All seem to agree that the Maandiva are a bad 
 lot, but they arc not so ready to confess that the 
 hibares are bad too. 
 
 After the priests and prophets I have mentioned 
 comes a class of what are called Barogo, i.e., char- 
 mers. There seems to be little distinction between 
 them and the Basao, or medicine - men, probably 
 owing to the fact that in the administration of all 
 medicine a certain amount of jugglery is practised. 
 They always speak of cJiarniing a disease, when they 
 mean curing it. This charming, or witchcraft, is 
 (when the patient dies) as liable to be visited with 
 the extreme penalty of the law as it was in Scotland 
 in days gone by. Poisoning, or, as they say, cJtarm- 
 ing by poison, is regularly carried on by professionals 
 of the art. Vegetable poisons are doubtless chiefly 
 used, but bones of the dead and parts of putrid 
 bodies are also mixed up, and the fatal dose ad- 
 ministered in beer, or in the vegetable sauce com- 
 monly used by chiefs to season their boiled plantains 
 when meat is scarce. Women not unfrequently 
 poison their husbands in this wzy. So afraid is the 
 king of being poisoned by his own wives, that he will 
 taste nothing until first the cook, who is one of them, 
 has eaten a little (before his eyes), not only out of 
 every dish, but out of various parts of every dish ! 
 
 The head wife in every harem is always called 
 Kadu liibare (little slave of the spirit), I have heard 
 the word applied also to a child born by a woman 
 who had been barren, but who brought offerings to
 
 ROADSIDE SHRINES. 177 
 
 a shrine or temple {sahd) of a liihare, begging to 
 have offspring, and promising at the same time (Uke 
 Samuel's mother) to dedicate the child to the spirit. 
 After such a child is born, the mother revisits the 
 shrine with the infant, and worships there the unseen 
 spirit, thanking the same for the child, and nomi- 
 nally handing it over to the liibare. These little 
 roadside shrines have generally no 3Iaajidwa, or 
 priest, being simply a miniature hut in a clean-swept 
 space. Every chief, and nearly every commoner, has 
 one or more of these little temples, with an aloe 
 or other solitary tree growing close b\% on which are 
 hung bits of charms of the most trivial description. 
 Every house has charms hung on the door, and 
 others laid on the threshold. A native does not 
 venture out of doors in the morning until he first 
 throws out an ugly bell-shaped charm, made of grass 
 covered over with bark cloth. This is kept at the 
 back of the door, and at dawn, whoever first gets up, 
 opens the door, throws out the ball, saying, " Here, 
 lubare, this is yours." 
 
 I must not omit to mention the Bafnnio. These 
 seem to exist in every country of East Africa. They 
 are called by the same name among the \Van}am- 
 wezi, and their office is to perform divination by 
 killing a fowl, spilling its blood on or near the thres- 
 hold, and examining the entrails. I have noticed 
 the practice most frequently observed when a chief 
 las fallen seriously ill. 
 
 A. M. M. 12
 
 CRUELTY OF THE HEATHEN.
 
 " The dark places of the earlh are full of the habitations of 
 cruelty." — Psalm Ixxiv. 20. 
 
 "A few days ago Mtesa gave an order that every man in the 
 country was to wear a bead on his wrist, under pain of losing 
 his hand, and every woman to wear a bead on her waist, under 
 pain of being cut in two acrcss the waist." — A. M, Mackay, 
 1st Jan., 1882.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 CRUELTY OF THE HEATHEN. 
 
 F anything were wanting to shame the selfishness 
 and break down the optimism of many oppo- 
 nents of Christian missions, a perusal of the facts 
 related in this chapter may do good. Which is the 
 better, to enjoy our comforts and our luxuries with 
 all self-complacency, telling Christians to leave the 
 heathen alone in their simplicity, whilst the earth 
 groans under its wickedness, or to bestir and deny 
 ourselves to spread the light of truth and grace, and 
 show them a better way ? 
 
 IMackay and his fellow-labourers in Uganda chose 
 the thorny paths of self-denial, sometimes repelled and 
 deserted, and left almost to starve for want of food, 
 sometimes enjoying a brief period of acceptance and 
 favour and personal comfort, but always living in 
 uncertainty, and more or less apprehensive of danger. 
 
 Feb. 1st, 1881. — ]\Ieantime, every crime and form 
 of uncleanness is rampant in. the countr}^ Each day 
 reveals to us fresh tales of iniquity and cruelty and 
 oppression. One army has been sent east to murder 
 and plunder. Not even the natives themselves can 
 call it zvar : they all say it is for robbery and devas- 
 tation. Another large army has been sent west to
 
 l82 CRUELTY OF THE HEATHEN. 
 
 Gambaragara for the same purpose ; while the king 
 gives out that if he recovers from his loathsome 
 disease, he will at once go in person to attack the 
 king of Rwanda. 
 
 Every day there is a v/anton slaughter going on of 
 innocent victims. For a time, after we came here, we 
 were ignorant of this. It may have been done more 
 quietly on our account, or our ignorance of the 
 language and people prevented our detecting it 
 sooner. Now, at any rate, before our eyes the terrible 
 crime lies bare. No more is it the king himself who 
 says, " Go slaughter such a one and such a one." 
 Now each executioner — we do not know how many 
 executioners there are, but on every road diverging 
 from the court there is at least one — has orders to 
 capture and kill mercilessly all or any that pass on 
 the highway. Unsuspecting peasants coming in from 
 the country with plantains on their head are seized 
 upon in a moment, and dragged into the executioner's 
 court, secured in forke'd sticks till morning, and 
 slaughtered at dawn. Some days many are thus 
 murdered, and other days fewer. It is especially 
 men who have no friends or powerful chiefs as their 
 protectors who are the victims. No crime have they 
 committed, nor been guilty of the most trivial 
 offence. It is the king's pleasure that so many be 
 butchered every day by each executioner, and on 
 certain days a greater number, and the owner of the 
 slaughter office must find his victims where he can. 
 
 It is dark, about lo p.m. All is quiet, the last
 
 THIRST FOR BLOOD. 183 
 
 drum heard being the executioner's across the small 
 valley, announcing that he has secured his victims 
 for the day, and will spill their blood in the morning. 
 Suddenly a sharp cry in the road outside of our fence, 
 then mingled voices; an agonizing yell again, followed 
 by the horrid laugh of several men, and all is still as 
 before. " Do you hear ? " says one of our lads ; " they 
 have cut that fellow's throat — hee, hee, hee ! " and he 
 laughs too — the terrible Baganda grin of pleasure 
 in cruelty. So it is. The poor fellow had been 
 found on the road at so late an hour. He was alone, 
 and the prowlers sent out by the king, " to keep the 
 peace " after dark, cut the man's throat because the 
 king likes blood, and the chiefs thirst for blood, and 
 they themselves will get promotion only as they 
 manifest a similar desire. Who can tell on how many 
 of our fellow-men the sun rises each day in this 
 land of blood, but who are suddenly hurled into 
 eternity before another morning dawns.? All this 
 merely to gratify the bloodthirstincss of this monster 
 in position of absolute power — this murderous maniac 
 — called by good people in England, and people 
 who should know better too, " the Jminane king of 
 Uganda." 
 
 It will find little credence in Europe when I state 
 it as a fact that after this king embraced Islam, before 
 Stanley's arrival, he one day ordered two hundred 
 youths to be burnt alive, merely because they had 
 gone a little further than himself in adopting the 
 new creed — having been circumcised by the Arabs.
 
 1 84 CRUELTY OF THE HEATHEN. 
 
 But that was a small slaughter compared with 
 others. Two years ago, I understand, the king gave 
 orders for a kiivendo, as it is called, i.e., a great 
 butchery of human beings. Suma, Mtesa's father, 
 used to have many such ; and Mtesa, after the example 
 of his father, must exercise a similar power. Tzvo 
 tJioiisand victims were caught in the highways, chiefly 
 at night, the capture requiring many days ; and when 
 the number was made up, all were put to death on 
 one day. Less than a year ago, another similar 
 atrocity was committed. Mtesa ordered the sepul- 
 chre of Suma to be rebuilt. The old king was buried 
 on a hill called " Wainala^' and a large hut stands 
 over the grave, while in a Jnindred other smaller huts 
 within the enclosure live a large number of old 
 sorceresses to guard the royal spirit. These are 
 believed also to be possessed of the soul of Suma. The 
 rebuilding of the hundred huts was nearly completed 
 when I left for Uyui last April. Kyambalango was 
 the chief in charge of the work, while he was assisted 
 by two other chiefs — Mukwenda and Mutesa Mul- 
 yanzibu. Both Kyambalango and Mukwenda have 
 been taught by us to read, as also a great deal of 
 sacred truth. The former came to me every day for 
 several months, while the latter has been instructed 
 by Pearson. Mutesa Mulyanzibu had also learned to 
 read, and had always shown himself a willing listener 
 to the Word in our Sunday readings at court. 
 
 As the work of building the grave of Suma ap- 
 proached completion, the executioners were set to
 
 TIVO THOUSAND MURDERED. 1S5 
 
 work on every line of road to capture men, women, 
 and children. At length enough were caught, and on 
 the great khvcndo day two thousand innocent people 
 were murdered on the spot, under the personal super- 
 vision of Kyambalango, Mukwenda, and Mutesa Mul- 
 }'anzibu. All this was meant as an expiatory offering 
 to the departed spirit of the late murderous monarch, 
 Suma. 
 
 Feb. 6th. — Once again, another kiivendo is about 
 to take place. Some one of the name of Mayanja 
 (whether a sorcerer or not we do not yet know) has 
 advised the king that to hasten his recovery it is 
 necessary to slaughter people on several hills round 
 the capital. For days the dozen or more execution- 
 ers, each with his gang of twenty to thirty men, have 
 been lying in wait for people on the roads. Bakopi, 
 or common people, only are caught ; while sons 
 or petty officers of chiefs, if caught by mistake, can 
 generally purchase their release by a goat or a cow. 
 The other night five were suddenly apprehended at 
 our own gate ; two days ago the executioner {Sabata) 
 opposite went to catch men on another road, as it 
 liad got noised abroad that he was catching every 
 one that passed this way. People who had gone that 
 other way to avoid this one, thus fell into the trap, 
 and by evening we heard that Sabata had captured 
 forty men and thirty women. Last night we heard 
 that he had made a similar " take." The other exe- 
 cutioners in the other directions are also all at similar 
 work. Several days are said to elapse }'et before the
 
 i86 CRUELTY OF THE HEATIIEW 
 
 slaughter takes place. Some will have their throats 
 cut, while others will be tortured to death — their eyes 
 put out, nose and ears cut off, the sinews of their arms 
 and thighs cut out piecemeal and roasted before 
 their eyes, and finally the unhappy wretches burnt 
 alive. Others, again, arc tied hand and foot, dry reeds 
 and firewood heaped over them, and then the whole 
 ignited. 
 
 The wretch who orders all this to be done for 
 his own gratification is he who is called in Europe 
 the "enlightened and intelligent king of Uganda." 
 It is he who professed to Mr. Stanley to be con- 
 verted to Christianity, whom the Romish priests write 
 of as becoming a good Catholic. It is he who says 
 that we Protestant missionaries are mad, because we 
 deny the use of worshipping the liibare (genius of 
 the country) ; while I am especially mad because I 
 told Mtesa that he was merely playing with religion, 
 in professing himself one day a Christian, another day 
 a Mussulman, and a third a follower of his old super- 
 stition. More than once in the past he has deceived 
 us in his professions of desire to know the truth ; 
 although his never agreeing to forego the least of his 
 sinful practices with the view of being even only a 
 nominal Christian, always led us to suspect that he 
 was altogether insincere in his words and actions. 
 Now, however, he has for more than a year thrown off 
 all disguise, so far as our teaching is concerned. Even 
 the Romanists allow that all his professions of faith 
 in them are only a ruse. The Mohammedans, too.
 
 THE KING'S CHARACTER. ;G7 
 
 are oblig-ed to confess that he is no Mussuhnan at 
 heart, nor in practice, even to the smallest degree. 
 
 Mtesa is a pagan — a heathen — out and out. All 
 the faculties of lying, low cunning, hatred, pride and 
 conceit, jealousy, cruelty, and complete ignorance of 
 the value of human life, combined with extreme 
 vanity, a desire for notoriety, greed, and absolute 
 want of control of his animal propensities, — all these 
 seem not only to be combined, but even concentrated 
 in him. All is self, self, self. Uganda exists for him 
 alone, and we have too much reason to believe that 
 he really imagines that all the world besides was 
 created for his especial benefit. 
 
 Every act of seeming generosity, or of any other 
 redeeming nature, we cannot but now conclude, from 
 several years' examination of his character, to have 
 been done either for the glorification of himself in the 
 eyes of foreigners, or merely as a bait to gather more 
 into his net. 
 
 While guilty of every form of unclcanness, and 
 robbery, and tyranny, and murder, and fratricide, 
 one finds a strange anomaly in his character, viz., a 
 seeming afi'ection for some of his younger children, 
 to which may be added a real sense o^ justice without 
 respect of persons, in giving judgment in cases of 
 appeal to him, e.g., a sub-chief bringing a comphint 
 that he had been plundered of his all by some supe- 
 rior or stronger officer. 
 
 Strange to say, in this most lawless land, there is 
 a never-ending amount of iinisango (trial) going on.
 
 1 88 CRUELTY OF THE HEATHEN. 
 
 All the great chiefs are judges in their own territories, 
 with, of course, power of life and death. Every Mu' 
 tongole and petty officer has also very frequently cases 
 brought before him. The same case is often heard, 
 also, by many such judges in succession before it is 
 settled. At the capital, common people not under 
 the same chief, have their cases tried by three petty 
 officers of the Katikiro, a small fee being always 
 paid. Chiefs have all their differences settled by an 
 old chief called Mungobya, who is said to be very 
 just in his decisions. From him appeal can be had to 
 the Katikiro (chief minister), who is a young conceited 
 fellow, formerly only a cook of Mtesa's. This man is 
 a pure timeserver, and always gives the case to the 
 man who has bribed him most in slaves or cattle. 
 Mtesa hears cases without fee, and is generally 
 regarded as just in his verdict. Poor men can, how- 
 ever, bring no case against a richer man. Spolia- 
 tion and death would be the certain doom of th^? 
 hakopi (peasant), even should his case get a hearing 
 at all. 
 
 The Arab, Kambi Mbaya, is now attempting to 
 cure the king of his long-standing stricture. Wheaten 
 flour, with almonds, seems to be the remedy ! M. 
 Lourdel, who has no idea of medicine, is also con- 
 tinuing to supply his Majesty every day with some 
 bottles of drug. He goes to court every day. We 
 understand that they (the Romish priests) have got 
 permission to remove from their present site to one 
 across the road from where they are, as water is there,
 
 LETTER TO THE KING. 1S9 
 
 and a patch of swamp where they can raise pure 
 wheat for use in the sacrament of the mass. It is a 
 mortal sin to use any other than purest wheat for the 
 sacred wafer ; but the grain they are growing seems 
 to me to be a species of barley, and not wheat at all. 
 Last night Mr. Pearson and I wrote a letter to 
 Mtesa on the subject of the approaching terrible 
 massacre. We wrote also a note to the Frenchmen, 
 asking them to join their influence to ours, to try to 
 prevent such a dreadful act from taking place. Our 
 letters, as well as the Frenchmen's reply, are as 
 follows : — 
 
 '' StJ^ February, iSSi, 
 •' To ]\IteSxV, King of Uganda, etc. 
 
 "We beg your Majesty to hear the prayer which 
 we make to you on account of the people taken by 
 your executioners to be killed. 
 
 "We are not the king or chiefs of Uganda; we only 
 pray your Majesty not to allow these people, who 
 have done no wrong, to be put to death. The great 
 God has given a commandment in His Book — * Thou 
 shalt not kill ;' and if this great wickedness is done, 
 breaking God's law. He will be very angry with you, 
 the Baganda and Buganda, and will send His punish- 
 ments. Besides this, killing so many people, and so 
 many being killed, fighting and robbing neighbour- 
 ing countries, will make your country very weak. 
 
 " The king is king over people ; and if the land has 
 no inliabitants, what can the king reign over. '' The
 
 190 CRUELTY OF THE HEATHEN. 
 
 more inhabitants there are in a country, the stronger 
 and richer the king becomes. 
 
 "You remember what KiNTU said about blood- 
 shedding, and we beg your Majesty to give orders 
 that all these people, your Majesty's children, may be 
 released, and this great wickedness not be done. 
 
 "We daily pray God that He may give you His 
 blessing in all things, and give you a wise heart, 
 through Jesus Christ's sake, 
 
 " With many salaams we remain, 
 
 "Your Majesty's faithful subjects, 
 
 (Signed) •' Ch. W. PearsON 
 " A. M. Mackay." 
 
 Cory OF Lltter sent to Rev. Pi:RE Superior 
 LiviNiiAC, Uganda. 
 
 " ith February, 1881. 
 
 "After salutations to you and your confreres, I wish 
 to speak to you about a very serious affair. The 
 king for several days has sent his executioners, with 
 their people, that they may seize all the people pos- 
 sible, to kill them, and that without these poor 
 fellows having done any virrong. We have written a 
 letter (in French) to the king, of which I send you a 
 copy, praying him not to do such a wrong. There are 
 ten more days in which they will carry this on, and 
 many people will lose their lives. 
 
 " I think that if you will join your petition to 
 ours, we could, perhaps, save them. Tell me, then, 
 if you will do it. It is a thing which every good
 
 THE PRIESTS LETTER. 191 
 
 man might do, whatever might be liis religious 
 opinions, 
 
 "We have sent a Icitcr because we have great 
 difficulty in seeing the king. 
 
 " We hope that Pere Levesquc is better. Give us 
 some news of his condition. 
 
 " With many salutations from Mr. ]\Iackay and 
 myself, believe me, etc., etc., 
 
 " (Signed) Cil. W. PEARSON." 
 
 Copy of translation of Reply ey P. Livixiiac 
 TO Mr. Pearson, 
 
 ♦' I.M.J." [Jesus, ]\Iary, Joseph.] 
 
 "6//; February, iSSi. 
 "My Dear Mr. Pearson,— 
 
 " I am very far from blaming the step with 
 which charity has inspired you, 
 
 "The great idea which the people have here of the 
 power of the English Consul at Zanzibar, and of the 
 power of England in the whole world, permits you to 
 hope that your words will be taken into considera- 
 tion, 
 
 " For us, everybody knows very well that coming 
 from a country which has not even a king, we are 
 only, in the idea of the Baganda, as little hagcnyi 
 ( = guests) without influence, and we are sure that 
 our intervention will be zvort/iless. We cannot then 
 interfere, [Italics in original.] 
 
 " Pere Levesque, without suffering any great pain, 
 is not yet able to walk. He still continues your
 
 192 CRUELTY OF THE HEATIIEiV. 
 
 treatment. He charges me to thank you and salute 
 you as well as Mr. Mackay. 
 
 "We all salute you all. Salute on our part Mr. 
 Mackay, and believe me, 
 
 " Yours wholly devoted in Jesus Christ, 
 
 " (Signed) Leon Livinhac, 
 " Miss. d'Afriqiicr 
 
 It will be clearly seen from the above how true is 
 the statement by " K," in his article in C.M.S. Intelli' 
 gencer, on " Jesuit Aggression," that the theory of the 
 Romanists as to mission work is, that " missionaries 
 without bayonets made converts to little purpose." 
 
 We based our request to the king — ist, on the ground 
 of God's holy law ; 2nd, on the imprudent policy of 
 the act ; 3rd, on the faith of the king in the ancient 
 superstition that Kintu, the founder of Uganda, dis- 
 appeared because the land had become so full of 
 blood. 
 
 The Frenchmen, however, totally and wilfully mis- 
 took our ground, implying by their letter that we 
 ventured to rebuke the terrible sin only on the 
 strength of our status as Englishmen. 
 
 This is confirmed by the words of Pure Lourdel, 
 whom Mr. Pearson (who had gone to see a chief 
 about some of our boys who, with the chief's son, had 
 been many days missing) met in the road before our 
 letter to P. Livinhac had reached him. Mr. Pearson 
 told him of our letter to INItesa, and of our request 
 for joint action on their part. P. Lourdel merely
 
 INDIGNATION AT UXFAITIlfUINESS, 193 
 
 shrugged his shoulders, saying that it was of no use 
 at all to try to stop this massacre ; that unless they 
 had a powerful army at their back, they would not 
 risk their lives by interfering ! 
 
 Why does M. Lourdcl go to court every day, and 
 sit silent there while he hears such terrible evil being 
 enacted ? Is his presence continually there, and his 
 silence in every case of wickedness, and his endless 
 efforts at currying favour with the king, not a simple 
 acquiescence in the evil things said and done at this 
 iniquitous court ? 
 
 Here we are under no consular protection, nor have 
 the king and people any idea of English power, except 
 suspicion of it, making us all the more hateful in 
 the eyes of the government here ; while, for our last 
 protest against evil, we have been in great disfavour, 
 and have been excluded from court altogether, being 
 also refused every concession which we have asked for 
 liberty to teach Christianity. Yet we did not shrink 
 to risk our lives in God's name and in Christ's cause. 
 We know very well that the step is a dangerous one ; 
 but are we, on that account, to be silent in face of 
 such a terrible tragedy as is about to be enacted ? 
 
 Last Monday, Duta (son of chief Kangao), a lad 
 who has been much with us for instruction, and of 
 whom we have had good hopes that the W^ord has 
 reached his heart, left this with two of our boys for 
 a place in the country, only a day off, where they 
 went to get some gouja (a species of plantains). They 
 should have been back next day, but have not yet 
 
 A. M. M. I %
 
 194 CRUELTY OF THE HEATHEN. 
 
 been heard of. We have made all possible surmises 
 as to what detains them, sometimes fearing that one 
 of the executioners has captured them as victims for 
 the great massacre, and again hoping that they have 
 heard of people being captured in extra numbers just 
 now, and therefore have remained at a distance from 
 the capital. Some of our native friends in the next 
 garden assert positively that Duta has stolen the boys, 
 and that wc shall never hear more of either them or 
 of him. Baganda have no confidence in each other. 
 
 Yesterday we sent three of our servants a good 
 many miles to the westward to make inquiries, but 
 they returned at night with no news of the missing 
 lads. But this and all our other troubles we cast on 
 Him whose eye is ever on us, and who will withhold 
 no good thing from us. 
 
 March 13//A — A week ago we were suddenly sent 
 for by Mtcsa to examine one of the elder princes. He 
 had been just shot by a brother,^ and it was feared 
 he would die at once. Packing some bandages, 
 instruments, and medicine in a bag, Pearson and I 
 set off to see the wounded man. He was in a house 
 half a mile off, sitting in the doorway, with the Kati- 
 kiro and all the big chiefs round him. By the aid of 
 a candle we examined his wounds, and found them 
 very serious. His brother, for some offence, shot him 
 at close quarters, discharging into his body the con- 
 
 ^ AfLerwards ihe cruel King Kalema, lately driven out by tue 
 Christians.
 
 A WOUNDED FKINCE. 195 
 
 tents of both barrels of a heavy gun. Each charge 
 had over six inches depth of powder, while two iron 
 bullets, a quantity of shot, a lot of pebbles, besides 
 wads of bark cloth, all had entered the man, his skin 
 being also ruptured all over by tlic gunpowder! 
 
 One large iron bullet we found lodged between the 
 collar-bone and shoulder-blade, and a lot of pebbles 
 in the same hole, having entered over six inches, as 
 we found by probing. One pellet gone through the 
 flesh under the chin ; several pellets, some lodged 
 in and some gone through the left arm near the 
 shoulder. Great flesh wounds above and below wrist 
 of right hand, some still lodged in and some gone 
 through. Miraculous escape ! no bones broken nor 
 arteries injured, as far as wc could ascertain. 
 
 We gave him a stimulant and dressed the wounds, 
 and left the chiefs there with a small army to keep 
 watch over him all night. We And that they left 
 some time afterwards, to hold judgment on the 
 other prince who had fired the shots. As they con- 
 sidered the latter to have had justice on his side, they 
 left the wounded man. 
 
 They were all there merely because the king had 
 told them to go and see his son, and ask us to give 
 him medicine. When we were leaving, we asked one 
 of the " great " chiefs to lend a bed for the sick prince; 
 but none of them would do it. We therefore said 
 that we would send him a bed, which we did at once 
 on returning home. 
 
 Mtesa has ordered that the invalid be removed a
 
 ::>6 CRUELTY OF THE HEATHEN. 
 
 mile further off, that he may not die near the palace. 
 Such is fatherly affection here! We have since heard 
 that the poor prince is dead. 
 
 Lourdcl called one day, reporting that Mtesa had 
 shed tears in court on account of the accident to his 
 son, saying that he himself had taught them both to 
 use a gun, and this was the result ! He did not add 
 that he himself had taught them, by his example, 
 how to ruthlessly shed blood, nor did he seem to re- 
 flect on the rich legacy of unclean passions which his 
 sons, and daughters too, have inherited from him. 
 
 March i^t/i. — Hosts of natives delivered, one by 
 one, his tax of one bark cloth each for the interment 
 of the dead prince. This is the custom in burying a 
 great man. The body is practically embalmed, but 
 not by spices. The executioners are the undertakers 
 — a combination of offices that might be tried in 
 England. They press and press and squeeze the 
 body with the hand until they squeeze all watery 
 matter out of it. The operation is not begun, I be- 
 lieve, until decomposition commences to take place, 
 and lasts several days. Then the dry carcase is 
 wrapped in a thousand bark cloths, until the whole 
 presents the appearance of an enormous bundle, which 
 is buried in the ground, and a house built over the 
 place, certain of the wives of the deceased staying in 
 huts close by, all their days, to watch the departed 
 spirit. These women are supposed to hold converse 
 with, and also to be possessed of, the spirit of their 
 late husband.
 
 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 197 
 
 Common people are simply, when dead, thrown on, 
 into the nearest waste place, where wild animals and 
 vultures grow fat on the flesh. Burial is denied to 
 them. In the swamp near our garden are countless 
 skeletons and skulls of natives ; but the lower jaw is 
 wanting in, I believe, every case, otherwise I should 
 try to secure a i&w skulls for the Berlin Museum. I 
 may manage it yet, but the task is difficult, as sor- 
 cerers are often accused of poisoning people by 
 making medicine out of dead bones, and the crime 
 is punished by terrible torture and then death by 
 burning. 
 
 Uganda 2S/Z; October^ 18S3. — Human sacrifices on 
 a large scale are frequently performed at this court. 
 The king is ill of a tedious disease, as, indeed, arc 
 nearly all the chiefs and many of the people. He is 
 supposed to be bewitched. He calls for his diviners, 
 who recommend another khvendo on all the sur- 
 rounding hills. The executioners are ordered out to 
 collect victims. The neighbourhood of the capital 
 is a series of hills, conical or table-shaped, intersected 
 by swamps, which they call rivers. All the paths 
 approaching the capital must cross these swamps, a 
 low bank having been generally made on which to 
 cross, waterways being left here and there, across 
 ivhich one or two logs of wild palm are thrown. As 
 all coming to or going from the capital must cross 
 at these points, the executioners lie in wait there, and 
 capture unwary serfs, whom they tie up for execution. 
 When new huts are built over the graves of the late
 
 1 98 CRUELTY OF THE HEATHEN. 
 
 kings, their erection is inaugurated by a khvcndo. 
 Each head executioner, with his head and face 
 covered by a sort of woven cap with long fringes, 
 which hide his features, making them look doubly 
 ferocious, slays by a blow from a club on the back 
 of the head. Death is generally instantaneous. On 
 some occasions as many as two thousand innocent 
 men and women have thus been butchered on a single 
 day. 
 
 Death is almost invariably the punishment for 
 adultery, as also for theft on a large scale. The 
 culprits are executed by having their throats cut, 
 just as goats are slaughtered. In some cases they 
 are taken to a distance from the capital, generally to 
 the side of some swamp. Their bodies are then 
 smeared over with butter, or frequently with the gum 
 of the incense tree, and they are hung up alive over 
 a slow fire till dead, the executioner and his slaves 
 meantime sitting by, smoking and drinking, and jeer- 
 ing at the wretch in agony. But, strange to say, all 
 these extreme measures fail to put a stop to theft and 
 other crimes which are every day being perpetrated. 
 Women have their backs seared with red-hot irons, 
 and only recover after months of doctoring. Ears 
 arc cut off for very trifling offences, especially among 
 boys. The extraction of one or even both eyes is a 
 very common mode of punishment. Noses are also 
 cut off; but perhaps the most hideous form of mutila- 
 tion consists in cutting away the whole of the lips, 
 leaving the jaws and teeth exposed. I have known
 
 METilODS OF PUNISHMENT. k)') 
 
 tlie hands and feet to be all cut off, and the poor 
 victim left thus to die by the roadside, his offence 
 liavinj been the theft of only a pot of beer valued at 
 less than a shilling! If a thief is found at night in 
 any one's garden, he is simply speared to death, no 
 inquiries being made about the matter. 
 
 The houses being all frail wicker-work structures of 
 reeds, thatched with grass down to the ground, there 
 can be no prisons of security. Hence it is that 
 offenders are generally either mutilated or killed out- 
 right, as being the least expensive mode of punish- 
 ment. Stocks are used for neck, arms, and feet, but 
 only in cases when the criminal is permitted to pay a 
 ransom for his life or limb, and is thus detained until 
 the price, in goats or cattle, is paid. Corporal punish- 
 ment is seldom inflicted. When given, it is by a 
 long, stout stick', the victim being thrown on his face 
 on the ground, and there held down by many hands, 
 the blows being dealt with terrible force longitudinally 
 along the whole back. When over, the victim must 
 kneel and make profound obeisance to the chief who 
 has ordered him to be beaten. 
 
 The most abject deference is paid by inferiors to 
 superiors ; and even the highest chiefs, in their turn, 
 must " lick the very dust " in the presence of royalty. 
 
 The amount of imposition, tyranny, and iniquity 
 practised here by the strongest arm would, if 
 described only in part, shock the feelings of the 
 whole civilized world.
 
 SAABADU'S ACCOUNT OF HIS VISIT 
 TO ENGLAND.
 
 " So swine neglect the pearls that lie before them, 
 Trample them under foot, and feed on draff; 
 So fools gild rotten idols, and adore them, 
 Cast all the corn away, and keep the chaff. 
 That ever reason should be blinded so, — 
 To grasp the shadow, let the substance go ! " 
 
 Francis Qitarlcs.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 SAAB AD LPS ACCOUNT OF HIS VISIT TO 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 N perfect contrast to the lurid picture of cruelty 
 and death in the last chapter is Mackay's next 
 entry in his journal, which gives an account of the 
 report which one of Mtesa's envoys ^ to England gave 
 of his journey, and what he and his companions 
 saw in Europe and on the way. The exaggerations 
 and childishness manifest through the whole story, 
 whilst very amusing, show that there is a crying need 
 amongst these Baganda for the Christian School and 
 Church. 
 
 Feb. yth, iSSr. — At dawn Mufcaa turned up, say- 
 ing that Saabadu, one of the Baganda who went to 
 England, had arrived, and had seen the king yester- 
 day. We feel devoutly thankful to God that our 
 brethren have reached the lake, and that no evil has 
 befallen these Baganda on their long, long journey. 
 
 In the evening Muftaa came again, saying that at 
 
 ' Three Baganda envoys in charge of two returning mis- 
 sionaries, started by the Nile route, in June, 1879, and reached 
 
 London, in April, iSSo. 
 
 203
 
 204 SAABADU'S VISIT TO ENGLAND. 
 
 court, in the forenoon, Saabadu had given a long 
 account of his travels, and of what he had seen in 
 the country of the Queen. The fellow seems to have 
 spoken much more truly and faithfully than could 
 have been expected from a native of this country. 
 It is only that he has seen a land of liberty and of 
 such immense superiority to the much-lauded land 
 of Uganda, that has given him the boldness to 
 describe what he saw with so much truth. The fol- 
 lowing (as Muftaa gave it to us) is something like 
 the story which Saabadu told the king, in presence 
 of the chiefs. No Arabs were there, but some of 
 their slaves were outside, and reported to their mas- 
 ters what they heard. 
 
 " When we reached Rionga's [Foweira] we left our 
 wives there, and were deprived of all our guns and 
 spears and shields, and even of our big sticks. We 
 then made up our mind that Mtesa had sold us for 
 slaves to the white men. Then we marched en 
 through a desert [jungle V^, which took us three 
 months. After that we got to Khartoum. Then we 
 crossed -another desert, which took us two months. 
 Here we saw great mountains, such as we had never 
 seen before. Then we came to a nyanja [Red Sea], 
 and were put into a ship. Oh, my master, a ship is 
 very big, as big as a hill ! 
 
 " Then we reached the capital of the king of the 
 Turks [Egyptians]. But there we saw that it is not 
 Turks, but Bazungu [Europeans], who govern the 
 country. The Turks have no power at all.
 
 THE ENVOYS IN LONDON. 205 
 
 " Then we came to another nyanja [the Mediter- 
 ranean]. We sailed on till we came to an island 
 [Malta ?], which they said belonged to the Queen, 
 and we thought, ' Surely the Queen lives here, and 
 now we are at the end of our journey.' But no ; on 
 we went again, and we thought we would never get 
 to the end, for they told us that we were not half- 
 way yet. Then we came to a country belonging to 
 Bazungu, but the people were all like Arabs [Algiers]. 
 Next we came to a high island of the Bazungu, but 
 /lot of the Queen [Lisbon .']. This was in the third 
 nyanja [Atlantic]. 
 
 " Then we went on for many days, till we came to 
 England. Oh, wbat a lot of big ships we saw there ! 
 [mouth of the Thames T\. Their masts made us 
 think that it was a forest with the trees growing in 
 the water. Then we came to London. Here the 
 Queen sent a chief for us with a carriage and two 
 horses. The horses in London arc so many that no 
 one can ever count them, And the houses, they are 
 made of stone. Oh, my master, wonderful ! wonder- 
 ful ! ! they make two long fences of stones [sides of 
 the street], very long, as far as you can see, and the 
 house is inside the fence. It is all one house, but 
 divided so that lots of people live in it. No one can 
 count how many people live in one house [one side 
 of a street, being continuous, was supposed to be 
 one house]. Oh, London is a big place ; nothing but 
 houses of stone as far as from here to Bulc}iie::i 
 [some twenty miles from the capita'].
 
 2o6 SAABADU'S VISIT TO ENGLAND. 
 
 "Then we went to a place where a great chief [Col. 
 Grant or Mr. Hutchinson ?] met us, who held up his 
 hands and said, ' Eh 1 Baganda ! Baganda ! ! Ba- 
 ganda 1 ! ! ' 
 
 " After two days the Queen sent for us. We saw 
 a lot of ladies together, and they were all dressed 
 alike, so that we did not know which was the Queen. 
 Ob, my master, wonderful ! the Queen's house is as 
 large as from here to Nabulagala [a hill about two 
 miles or more from the present palace]. 
 
 " The day after that we went to a great open field, 
 where we saw the soldiers. Every mutongok [cap- 
 tain !] had his men dressed in a different colour of 
 cloth. We were in one gari [cart or carriage], and 
 the Queen in another. This time we saw her by 
 herself, and knew which was she herself. 
 
 " Then we went to see a place where they made 
 cannon — a great lot of cannon, very big. Two hun- 
 dred kegs of powder [about a ton in all] are the charge 
 for one vizinga [cannon]. It fires its ball as far as 
 from here to Myaviagoma [about seven miles west 
 of this]. After that we saw where they made guns — 
 beautiful guns, and very many. One man showed 
 IS his gun, which he had just finished. It was very 
 fine. Then we saw where they made the gunpowder. 
 Next we went to a place where they made woollen 
 cloth, and after that we saw them making bitfta 
 [bleached calico]. [Saabadu said that the Queen has 
 sent forty pieces of this as a present to Mtesa.] 
 
 "After we had been many days in London, we
 
 A VISIT TO THE ZOO. 
 
 went away to another place, where we stayed a short 
 time [probably in Bedfordshire]. We did not walk, 
 but went into a wooden house [railway carriage ?], 
 which went itself, with us all in it ! 
 
 " When we came back to London, we went to tell 
 the Queen that we wanted to come back to Uganda. 
 But she said, ' Not yet ; you have not seen my ani- 
 mals.' So Ave went to see the animals [in Zoo ?]. 
 Every animal in all the world is at the Queen's place. 
 First we spent three days looking at lions ; then we 
 looked at leopards for two days ; then we looked at 
 buffaloes for three days ; then we saw elephants for 
 many days ; then we saw birds for six days. Every 
 bird from every place is there. Then we saw the 
 crocodiles. Wonderful ! wonderful ! ! wonderful ! ! ! 
 the crocodiles are not wild. They hold out a piece 
 of meat, and call the crocodile, which comes and 
 takes it out of a man's hand. [Mtesa asked where 
 they get the food for all the animals. Saabadu re- 
 plied :] They give them cows and goats. [Mtesa 
 asked if they gave the cows and goats alive to the 
 animals.] They always kill the beasts, and give onl\' 
 the dead meat. 
 
 '* After that we saw elephants and snakes, and 
 every animal. [Mtesa said to his chiefs, ' Do you 
 hear that, how many animals the Bazungu give to 
 their Queen } ' The Katikiro replied, ' She must be 
 a very great kabaka (monarch).' INItesa hinted that 
 his chiefs should make him as great by giving him 
 as many animals.]
 
 2oS SAABADU'S VISIT TO EiXGLAND. 
 
 " Next they took us to see cows, and sheep, and 
 horses [at the Agricultural Hall ?]. Such a lot of 
 cows and sheep the Bazungu have ! There we saw 
 thousands of pigs, and each pig had six children. 
 These pigs are the food of the Queen ! 
 
 " Then we went to say good-bye to the Queen, and 
 she gave us a ship to come in. We were twelve 
 months in going to England from here, but we came 
 back to Zanzibar in this ship in one month. 
 
 " At Zanzibar we saw Said Burgash, who gave 
 us presents. But Said Burgash has only a very 
 little place. The Arabs tell you lies, my master, 
 when they say that they have a great country at 
 Pivani [the coast]. The coast all belongs to the 
 English, and the Arabs are their slaves ! 
 
 " England is a very great country. It is an island 
 as big as from here to Zanzibar, and there are many 
 islands about it, so many that we could not count 
 them. They make bridges across the rivers so big 
 that one does not need to go through the water to 
 cross over. 
 
 " Oh, my master, we have not got a country at all ! 
 The estate of one chief in England is as large as 
 all Uganda and Bunyoro and Busoga together. 
 [' Say that again,' said Mtesa. ' I like to hear a 
 man speak the truth' (??).] We have no country, 
 my master. [' Do you hear that .'' ' said Mtesa to the 
 chiefs. ' We have no country at all.'] 
 
 " In England every man has one wife, and every 
 wife has thirty children ! \0 nines : 'Oh, many, many
 
 TOO MUCH FOR THE KiNG. 2C() 
 
 many children.'] They have other women in the 
 house, who are not their wives ; they only do work. 
 The Bazungu who come here have no wives, but 
 when they go back to England they arc made great 
 chiefs, and each one gets a wife as a reward for his 
 
 services 
 
 1 1 1 
 
 "We saw Mr. ]\Iackay's father, who is a very rich [?] 
 and great man. He makes books and paper [!] very 
 much. Mr. Mackay's friends were all crying for him, 
 and said that they feared he was lost in Uganda.^ 
 
 "We saw a church which had very big bells [St. 
 Paul's ?]. When the bells ring, you can hear them 
 as far as from here to Busoga [fifty miles !]. The 
 inside of the church is all beautiful wood and marble. 
 The Bazungu have only one religion. 
 
 " The Queen's house is all made of looking-glasses, 
 and gold and silver inside, and we sat on chairs made 
 altogether of ivory!" 
 
 At this stage Mtesa said " Stop," and dismissed 
 the court, telling Saabadu that he was to tell no one 
 except himself what he had seen in England. 
 
 When the chiefs had all gone, Mtesa sent for his 
 wives (their name is legion), and made Saabadu tell 
 again in their presence all his marvellous story. All 
 the women replied, " Yoga, yoga, sebo, osinze " (" You 
 have done well, sir ; you have been victorious "). 
 This congratulation was to Mtesa, for having so suc- 
 cessfully sent his men to such a great country. 
 
 ^ They did not sec any of my family. — ./. J/. Hf. 
 A. M. M. 14
 
 2io SAADADU'S visit to ENGLAND. 
 
 ]\Itcsa then gave Saabadu a cow and two goats, 
 with a piece of cah'co, a bundle of bark clotli, and 
 izvo u>onicn. He sent him down to the Katilciro's witli 
 one of his pages, who was directed to say to the 
 judge, " Here is my slave who has come from Eng- 
 land, and whom I have sent to }'ou to hear his 
 report." 
 
 The Katikiro is said to have given him other two 
 women, while he has got one somewhere else ; so 
 that already he has returned, like the dog to his 
 vomit, to the life of debauchery in which every big 
 man lives here. This is, of course, part of Mtesa's 
 acute policy, as much as saying to the man, " Yes, 
 you have seen wonderful things in England, and you 
 say that English women are better than Baganda ; 
 but you did not get a lot of wives in England, as 
 you get here. You will enjoy yourself better here 
 than in England."
 
 THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS.
 
 " I am filled with comfort, I am exceeding joyful in all our 
 tribulation. For, when we were come into Macedonia, our flesh 
 had no rest, but we were troubled on every side ; without were 
 fightings, within were fears. Nevertheless God, that comforteth 
 those that are cast down, comforted us by the coming of Titus." 
 —.5-/. Paul. 
 
 "That the tide will turn I believe and know. The sun will 
 rise to-morrow morning. How do we know ? By no great 
 process of faith or reason. It has always done so. History 
 repeats itself; rather the calm and regular working of God goes 
 on with the same unerring grandeur in both worlds, the natural 
 and the spiritual. We shall not hasten the sunrise by rushing 
 eastward to help it — the chances are that we shall stumble in 
 the dark. When the light begins to dawn we can see where we 
 are going, and can rightly recognise the lay of the land." 
 
 —A. M. Mackay.
 
 CHAPTER VIIT. 
 THE TIDE EBBS AXD FLO I VS. 
 
 THE Mission being utterly without sujiplies, 
 INIackay proceeds to Uyui ^ for barter goods, 
 a:nd writes home a graphic review of the situation. 
 On his return to Uganda, the missionaries went on 
 quietly teaching a (c\v lads who came to them, 
 despite atrocious charges brought against Mackay 
 by the Arabs. They said he was an insane murderer 
 who had escaped from England, and for a time put 
 his life in imminent danger. 
 
 In March, 1881, the Rev. R O'Flaherty arrived, 
 and his knowledge of the Koran and readiness of 
 wit gave him a great advantage with the Arabs at 
 court, and he soon became popular with Mtesa. In 
 the following March several baptisms took place, 
 and in May, 18S3, the Mission was still further 
 stiengthened by the arrival of the Rev. R. P. Ashe. 
 
 To HIS Fatiilr : — 
 "Uvui, CExXtral Africa, 
 
 ' i^t/ijiuic, 18S0. 
 " I came down here, as our supplies were quite ex- 
 
 ' To do this he had to cross the lake, and tlion make a three 
 weeks' journey in a soutlicrly direction by land. 
 
 213
 
 /I4 THE TIDE EBBS AND FLO I VS. 
 
 haustcd in Uganda. Happily, I have got here a few 
 loads of cowrie shells, and a little calico. That I 
 am packing up, and (D.V.) in ten days or so I hoist 
 my flag and march back for the lake and Uganda — 
 to return — when .-* I left Pearson alone with Mtesa, 
 and I must hurry back to join him, and to my work 
 there. 'Duty before pleasure,' they say. But my 
 duty is a pleasure, great and serious as the drawbacks 
 connected with it are. Buganda (that is the correct 
 name as the natives say, although the coast men call 
 it Uganda) is a fair land, rich in hills and dales, 
 banana trees and palm.s of many kinds besides ; but 
 while ' every prospect pleases,' there, too, ' man alone 
 is vile.' 
 
 " Because under the favourable conditions of one 
 strong central government the Baganda have in many 
 generations of peace had time to make a little ad- 
 vance in civilization beyond their black brothers 
 everywhere round about them — these being ever re- 
 tarded by internal factions and fear of annihilation — - 
 ihey have educated themselves to believe that their 
 country is the most glorious in all the world, and 
 that they themselves are the most civilized and 
 enlightened race of men existing. In fact, in the 
 eyes of every Muganda the axis of the earth sticks 
 visibly out through the roof of the conical hut of 
 their king, or as they call him, Kahaka. IMore than 
 once this very Kahaka has asked me if there is any 
 other power in the world equal to his ! No cr.e 
 saying that there exists even one kingdom grcatet
 
 CONCEIT OF THE BAG AND A. 215 
 
 than that of Mtesa would be listened to for a 
 moment at the court of Uganda. 
 
 " Hence you will understand that in such a land 
 where a despot reigns, with nobles of his own creat- 
 ing — men who are entirely at the mercy of their 
 sovereign, for it has been the use and wont of the 
 king to set up one to-day and set him down to- 
 morrow — men who have never travelled beyond the 
 confines of their own country, except when they 
 are sent to make a raid on their more feeble neigh- 
 bours — it is just in such a soil where the grossest 
 forms of vice and superstition spring up and grow to 
 maturity. A feeling of superiority to all beside, to 
 foreigners — Arabs and white men alike — has pro- 
 duced an amount of pride and self-conceit more 
 ridiculous than the same in China. Every form of 
 lasciviousness and lust, laziness, greed, falsehood, 
 hatred, and murder, not only exist as common sins, 
 but are rejoiced in by the court and the nation. The 
 only religion is witchcraft, which is itself a system 
 of deception, the head witch of all being believed to 
 be the incarnation of the great evil spirit they call 
 the Inbarc, and whom they worship as the ruler of 
 heaven and earth, of land and sea. 
 
 " Some have blamed Mr. Stanley for giving far too 
 glowing an account of JNItesa and the kingdom which 
 he rules over. The French priests are especially 
 ever loud in their denunciations of that traveller for 
 writing, on the strength of very limited acquaintance 
 with the country, what they call utter falsehoods,
 
 2l6 THE TIDE EDDS AXD FLO IP'S. 
 
 whereby all Europe has been deceived. But I can- 
 not blame Stanley. He and Speke, and every travel- 
 ler, resided only a ic\w months, at most, at Mtesa's 
 court. They had opportunity of seeinr^ only the 
 outside, and that in many respects is fair enough. 
 Entering the country from the side of Zanzibar, one 
 certainly is struck with not a little admiration at the 
 advance which the Baganda have made in civilization 
 overall the tribes between the coast and them. Suez, 
 Jeddah, Aden, and Zanzibar, apart from the Arab 
 element, which at best is only barbarous — not savage, 
 but certainly not civilized — exhibit only a populace 
 remarkable for their squalid condition of filth and 
 poverty, if remarkable for anything. Then, among 
 the tribes one passes through all the way inland, the 
 traveller meets with only petty sultanships, each at 
 war with the other, and each therefore low down 
 in the scale of humanity, as each lives on from day 
 to day merely struggling for existence. This is all 
 one sees in Usagara, Uzaramo, Ugogo, and Unyain- 
 ivczi. In Uganda the scene is changed. There one 
 power rules, absolute, yet with certain ideas of pro- 
 priety and desires for improvement. The king must 
 have the best of everything, and receives a homage 
 amounting to little short of worship. At his court 
 Arabs have lived for more generations than one. 
 The respect shown to visitors has enticed many of 
 them to come and see the vain, conceited king. 
 Strangers have been treated well on a short visit, 
 not from any love to them, but that they may go
 
 STAXLE}"S VISIT THE DAIVN OF A NEW ERA. 217 
 
 away with j^lowing ideas of the greatness of the 
 
 court and the wealth of the monarch. 
 
 " But let one live in the land beyond the term of 
 novelty of display and profusion of hospitality ; let 
 him express a horror of the barbarity of the practices 
 he sees even at court ; let him lift up his voice in 
 condemnation of treachery, of lies, of lust, and of 
 cruelty and murder — then the spell is broken, and 
 the character of the people comes out in its true 
 light. Instead of hospitality, he finds hatred; instead 
 of food, he finds himself face to face with famine ; 
 instead of being received as he expected, as a wel- 
 come benefactor of the people, as a teacher of truth 
 and a leader in the way of light, a lover of law and 
 love, he is denounced as a spy, as a bringer-in of 
 foreign customs, and especially as a breaker-down 
 of the national institutions and religion. 
 
 " Yet I say — and I say it without hesitation — the 
 ice is broken. For a time the old gods of the land 
 had to give way to the creed of Arabia, as the king 
 saw something in that more likely to add prestige to 
 his court than the charm-filled horns of the magic 
 men and the frantic dance of the foolish foretellers 
 of fortune. Then came Stanley. Let the enemies 
 of this enterprising traveller scoff as they will, it is 
 a fact indisputable that with his visit there com- 
 menced the dawn of a new era in the annals of the 
 court of Uganda. The people themselves date from 
 Stanley's day the commencement of leniency and 
 law in place of the previous reign of bloodshed and
 
 2iS THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 terror. ' Since Stanley came,' they say, ' the king no 
 more slaughters innocent people as he did before ; 
 he no more disowns and disinherits in a moment an 
 old and powerful chief, and sets up a puppet of his 
 own, who was before only a slave.' Compared with 
 the former daily changes and cruelties, as the natives 
 describe them to me, one cannot but look on the 
 present government in Uganda as mildness in the 
 extreme, and feel thankful to God for the mighty 
 change. 
 
 " But a policy of iconoclasm is not enough. Any 
 man can pull down — or, as Carlyle calls it, unbuild — 
 in a day what has been the work of centuries to 
 erect ; but to build anew, in the place of the ruin, a 
 better and nobler structure, that will be a work which 
 no talk of an hour can accomplish. All the roots 
 and trunks of the old trees are there, and fresh shoots 
 cannot but be ever sprouting. The old carnal, evil 
 human nature remains, with all its enmity to God 
 and to all that is good. This has to be changed, and 
 it is not in the power of man to do that. But there 
 are the means. We come with the book of the reve- 
 lation of the love of God to men in our hands, and 
 we try to teach its glorious precepts^ One day they 
 listen, and another day they say, ' We w^ant none of 
 your teaching ; we have a religion of our own, which 
 we like better than the white man's religion. If you 
 want to teach us anything, show us how to make 
 gunpowder and guns, and we will give you land and 
 slaves.* Thus, up and down, in and out, flows the
 
 THE GOSPEL MUST TIUUMPTI. 219 
 
 tide. One day we are friends, the next day the en- 
 chanters prevail, and we are condemned as the cause 
 of all drought and disease. 
 
 " But still clearly shines the morning star, the sign 
 of the gospel of peace. The burning of a few straws 
 will make a smoke, and for the time the stars arc 
 rendered invisible in the sky. The flame dies out at 
 length, and there again Manet innnota stella. No- 
 thing yet has ever withstood the gospel long. Even 
 Islam shakes before it. The greater the opposition 
 for a time, the sooner, I believe, will the force be 
 spent, and then the truth alone shall triumph. Our 
 foes are far from few ; and in addition to those we 
 have found in the country, the Romanists have forced 
 themselves into our field, and already are disputing 
 every inch with us. 
 
 " I might write you pages describing my journey 
 from the capital of Uganda to this place — how we 
 had to spend a week going from island to island 
 trying to get canoes ; how the head man of each 
 canoe refused to take almost any of our things on 
 board, each one trying to get off as lightly as pos- 
 sible ; how we spent some thirty .days in these frail, 
 tiny barks, made of roughly hewn boards, sewed to- 
 gether with twigs ; how each day, in starting, the 
 captain of the fleet held out a banana on the point 
 of his paddle, and after a prayer to the spirit of the 
 sea, dropped the offering into the water to satisfy 
 the appetite of Neptune ; how one day I purchased 
 a great and potent charm, and after giving all the
 
 THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 crowd about mc a serious lesson on the worthlessness 
 of such an idol, and the power and love of God 
 above, I asked them wliat was in the charrn. ' The 
 lubare^ some said ; while others said they believed 
 it all a lie, and that there was no Inhare (or spirit) in 
 the thing. ' Will it burn ? ' I asked. ' Oh, no ; the 
 lubare does not burn.' ' Is not this charm mine .'' 
 Did I not buy it ? ' ' Yes, it is yours,' they all said. 
 'Then I can do with it what I like?' 'Oh, yes.' 
 ' Very good,' I replied ; so taking out of my pocket 
 a small lens, I made fire in a moment with the sun's 
 rays, and bidding my little boy gather a bundle of 
 dry wood, of which there was any amount lying on 
 the beach, I soon had a brilliant blaze. ' Can your 
 great witches make fire out of the sun, lilvC I have 
 done } ' I asked. ' No, no.' ' Then, you see, I am 
 cleverer than these gods whom you worship.' ' Yes, 
 }-ou make magic,' they said. ' Well, you say there 
 is magic in this charm which I have bought t ' 
 'Yes.' 'Well, let us see;' so putting the great 
 charm into the heart of the fire, it was reduced to 
 ashes in a few moments, half of the bystanders run- 
 ning away in horror, the rest standmg round, hoping 
 every moment that some terrible judgment would 
 come upon me for my sacrilege. ' Now the devil is 
 dead,' I said, 'and you all see that I have told you 
 true, that there is no saving power in charms, and 
 that God alone can save us.' ' You are a god,' some 
 said ; while others said, ' You are the devil.' They 
 have the two words, but they fear and worship tlie
 
 TREACHERY AND ROBBERY. 221 
 
 devil only. This is one of many such-like stories of 
 the kind which I might narrate, 
 
 "One day, near the mouth of the Kagera, we spied 
 two or three canoes of Baziba (as the natives of 
 Buzongora are called) on the shore on the edge of 
 the pap3-rus. All the fleet (fourteen canoes) made 
 for the spot. I did not know their object. On ap- 
 proaching, our canoc-men cried, ' Milembe ' (peace), 
 but immediately jumped into the water, each man 
 seizing his shield and spear out of the bow of the 
 canoes, and commenced appropriating the bundles 
 of peas and beans and nuts with which the three 
 Buzongora canoes were laden. Some remonstrance 
 was raised by the owners, when at once they were 
 charged and driven into the papyrus jungle at the 
 point of the spear. My indignation at the treachery 
 and robbery was roused. I jumped into the water, 
 and rushed in between the poor Baziba and their 
 assailants. Seizing the spear of the captain of the 
 fleet as he had it levelled to hurl at the timid owners, 
 I threatened to spear himself with it if he did not 
 order all the bales of beans to be given up forthwith. 
 Back into their own boats I drove our canoe-men ; 
 then jumping up on the top of the largest of the 
 plundered canoes, I ordered the whole of the bundles 
 to be returned. The canoe-men were now terrified 
 and surrendered everything forthwith. Only one or 
 two fellows tried to secrete a bundle under their 
 seats ; but I jumped from one canoe to another, and 
 giving each fellow I found trying to deceive me a
 
 THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 blow, I threw with my own hands every bundle my 
 eye rested on back into the right vessels. Now came 
 forward the poor Baziba out of the papyrus, and 
 falling down on their knees, adored mc for the de- 
 liverance I had effected for their lives and property. 
 
 "\Vc paddled on for an hour to our halting-place 
 for the night. There I discovered that the captain 
 of our boats had himself appropriated several bun- 
 dles. The Baziba turned up again to claim these, 
 and appealed to me on behalf of their property. As 
 I knew that the canoe-men wanted food, I allowed 
 our captain to keep what he had got, and gave out 
 of my box to the rightful owners nearly a thousand 
 cowrie shells in return for their property. They, as 
 well as our own men, were now satisfied, and all 
 round I received a cordial vote of thanks for my 
 rightful dividing of justice! 
 
 " It may be an interesting fact for Mr. St. John 
 Vincent Day, to mention that I have found a peculiar 
 form of weapon of war, made only of wood, and 
 used by the inhabitants of the Sesse Islands, also of 
 Ukerewe, and again in Marya and Sengerema {States 
 of Usukuma). Iron is plentiful enough in these 
 places, for hoes and beautiful hatchets arc manu- 
 factured out of it ; but spears are generally simply 
 long, pointed sticks, the points being hardened in the 
 fire. The Baganda and Basese call these inaguiiia. 
 In Buzongora also these are almost the only weapons, 
 although iron is very plentiful, and is there made 
 into the largest and finest hatchet? I have seen
 
 NATIVE SKILL IN WORKING IKON. 
 
 on the lake. The natives of the large island of 
 Buvuina, which the Eaganda have repeatedly tried 
 to subdue in vain, fight only with these wooden 
 spears, and slings in which they use pebbles. Inland, 
 in Mar}'a, I have seen arrows also entirely of wood, 
 i.e., having no metal barb ; yet there the smiths are 
 so skilful in working iron, that they make their pipe- 
 stalks of iron, very like a thin gas-pipe, but really a 
 thin, long, narrow iron plate, coiled round like a 
 riband, but so tightly as to look like a pipe. The 
 usual fighting weapon in Usukuma and all Unyam- 
 v.-ezi is a thin -handled stick, with a very heavy 
 knotted head. No shield is used by those who use 
 this weapon, nor by the islanders, who use slings or 
 bow and arrow. Flint and jasper and granite abound 
 in these countries, while brass ornaments are every- 
 where worn ; but neither stone nor brass is used any- 
 where for arrow-heads, while battle-axes are quite 
 unknown. 
 
 " I have made notes all along on the geology of 
 the country, both along the shores of the lake and 
 on the inland march south of Kagci ; but I have not 
 revised my observations yet, so as to make them 
 worth sending home. 
 
 " I am longing to be back at my work again at 
 Mtesa's. I enclose you a page or two of a small 
 reading book I was making before I left. But I was 
 much cramped for want of type, while our press was 
 only a toy. Here I find my own large press and 
 t}'pe. The latter I shall take on now, leaving the
 
 224 "J^H^ TILE EBBS AND FLOURS. 
 
 press to come up when cloth comes to pay the por- 
 terage. With more type, at any rate I hope to get 
 on faster with setting up my translations. The note 
 on the rainfall may be of value to you." 
 
 In the early part of i8Si, the missionaries were 
 virtually prisoners, fleeced of almost everything, 
 reduced not only to beggary, but to temporary 
 starvation. This was chiefly due to the hostilities 
 of two Arabs against IMackay, who had never even 
 seen them until they arrived in Uganda ; but his 
 C.M.S. brethren at Mpwapwa had relieved them of 
 a gang of female slaves, while the London's boats 
 had interfered with them in some way at Kilwa, 
 when they were bringing a crew of slaves from 
 Nyassa country, where they used to trade ; and as 
 Mackay had come by the way of the East Coast, he 
 was supposed to be under the wing ot the Consul, 
 and condemned as being an agent of the British 
 Government, and a spy on them. He writes at this 
 time : " It has also been my misfortune to be more 
 proficient in Suahili and Luganda than any other 
 member of the Mission. I alone have been able to 
 address the king and court directly in language 
 they could understand. Hence it is that I am 
 branded as a disputer and raiser of rows. Of course, 
 I had to open my mouth at times against murder 
 and adultery, and cruel raids for slaves on a terrible 
 scale, and even worse sins — so bad that one cannot 
 tell about them in black and white."
 
 THE KING AND THE CAT. 225 
 
 Journal, Feb. 26ih, 1881. — The Frenchmen last 
 evening sent a kind note, saying that they had heard 
 that I was very ill, sending at the same time a bottle 
 of wine with iron and quinine in it, and offering us 
 a milch cow. 
 
 ]\Ir. Pearson went to see them this afternoon. 
 
 ]\r. Lourdel was again true to his character of a 
 " bird of ill omen," He says that the king had 
 consulted him as to whether Pearson and I should be 
 allowed to leave. Lourdel says he advised that we 
 should be permitted to go and come as we like. The 
 king had asked him where it was that the Bazungu got 
 so much cleverness, and if he (Mtesa) could not get so 
 many great things for his country. Lourdel did not 
 say what reply he gave, but reported that again they 
 had been talking in court about putting me to death. 
 The Arabs, of course, were the instigators in this. 
 They told the king a ridiculous fable, which they 
 interpreted to the prejudice of the Bazungu, and 
 especially to my prejudice. 
 
 "A certain king," they said, "had a favourite cat, 
 which was reported to have one day eaten all the 
 eggs. The king, however, said, ' It. is my cat, let it 
 alone ; it must eat.' Next day it was reported to 
 have eaten the foivh. ' Let it alone,' said the king, 
 ' it is my favourite cat ; it must eat.' After this it 
 ate the goats, and then all the cows ; but still the 
 king would not let the cat be touched. Next it ate 
 up all the people, and the king's wives, and then his 
 children, and finally it ate up the king himself. Only 
 
 A. M. M. 1 5
 
 226 THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 one son of the kinj escaped by hiding himself. Mean- 
 time the cat grew and swelled to a great size, from 
 having devoured so many things. But the one prince 
 who escaped, succeeded in killing the cat at length. 
 When he cut it open, he found in it all the eggs and 
 the fowls and the goats and the cows and the people 
 and the wives and the king's sons. But in the act of 
 cutting the cat up, the prince accidentally wounded 
 in the thigh one of his brother princes inside the cat. 
 This fellow got out and said, ' What did you wound 
 me for ? ' * Do you not sec,' said the other, ' that I 
 have been doing you a good service in letting you 
 out .-^ ' But he refused to be at peace, and tried to 
 \C\\\ the prince who had let him out " ! ! ! 
 
 The wonderful cat is the English, and the wounded 
 prince who wished to kill his deliverer, said the 
 Arabs, is Mackay. " You, Mtesa, have conferred 
 every benefit on him, but he means only to return 
 you evil for good ! 
 
 Could enmity and falsehood go further .'' But none 
 of these things move me. The Lord has preserved 
 me many a time from the hatred of these revilers and 
 wicked men, who, for no reason at all, delight so to 
 speak all manner of evil against me falsely. It was 
 this very morning that Pearson and I read together 
 at prayers the 51st chapter of Isaiah : — 
 
 " I, even I, am He that comforteth you : who art thou, that 
 thou shouldest be afraid of a man that shall die, and of the son 
 of man which shall be made as grass ; and forgettest the LORD 
 thy maker, that hath stretched fortli the heavens, and laid the
 
 rilE IVOXDERFUL PUMP. 
 
 foundations of the earth ; and hast feared continually every day 
 because of the fury of the oppressor, as if he were ready to 
 destroy ? and where is the fury of the oppressor ? The captive 
 exile hastcneth that he may be loosed, and that he should not 
 die in the pit, nor that his bread should fail. But I am the 
 Lord thy God, that divided the sea, whose waves roared : 
 the Lord of hosts is His name. And I have put my words in 
 thy mouth, and I hav'e covered thee in the shadow of mine 
 hand." 
 
 With such a promise, and such a refuge, and such a 
 God, who shall be afraid "i Lord God, give us more 
 firm faith in Thee. 
 
 As for these Mohammedans and all others who so 
 malign us, we would have no bitter feelings in our 
 hearts against them. Lord, have mercy on them, and 
 lead them to know Thee, and then will they love 
 Thee and love Thy servants. 
 
 June ic)tli, iSSr. — Water! water! ! That has been 
 the difficulty. By examination of the hole where 
 all the natives near and ourselves have hitherto been 
 obtaining water, I noticed that under the subsoil 
 of red sandy clay, which has a great thickness 
 generally, there is a more porous stratum of lighter 
 stuff, and then a stratum of blue potter's clay, above 
 which the water lies. By taking levels with the 
 theodolite, I found that I could obtain water at a 
 convenient spot, within our own land, by sinking 
 only sixteen feet. Several men I set on the worlc, 
 with pick and spade, excavating a hole eight feet b)' 
 four square. When we got too far down to throw 
 up, I set up a trestle of strong trees ; and with rope
 
 22S THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 and pulley and bucket, much to the astonishment 
 of all the natives, we hoisted up the clay, till we 
 reached water just at the depth I predicted. The 
 Baganda never saw a deep well before, and would 
 not believe that water could be had on a hill-side 
 until they saw the liquid itself. It took more than 
 a week to sink the well ; but when I afterwards re- 
 paired a battered pump which I bought in London, 
 and they saw a copious stream ascend twenty feet 
 high, and flow, and flow, as long as one worked the 
 handle, their wonder and amazement knew no 
 bounds. " Makay lubare ! Makay lubare dala ! " was 
 cried by all. (Mackay is the great spirit, he is truly 
 the great spirit.) But I told them that there was 
 only one great Spirit, that is God, and I was only 
 a man like themselves. To each company that came 
 near I explained the action of the pump, some un- 
 derstanding best when I said it was only a sort of 
 elephant's trunk made of copper, while others could 
 comprehend that it was only (as I said) a beer- 
 drinking tube (called a luseke) on a large scale, with 
 a tongue of iron that sucked up the water, as their 
 tongues suck up the beer from their gourds. " Oh, 
 the Bazungu, the Bazungu ! they are the men ; they 
 can do everything ; the Arabs and Wangvvana don't 
 know anything at all ; they can only draw water 
 in the swamp where we get it ourselves ; but oh, 
 eh, eh, Mackay is clever, clever ; the king will get 
 them to carry him here to see this wonderful thing." 
 Mr. O'Flaherty enhances the greatness of the mar-
 
 '' GREAT NEWS." 229 
 
 vel by telling all and sundry that I can bring the very 
 nyanja itself up to the door of the palace, with 
 all the fish and canoes as well ! 
 
 Oct. Ztli, 1881. — My old faithful pupil and assistant. 
 Sembera Kumunbo, has turned up again several 
 times. His master lives very far off, hence he has 
 difficulty in coming often. To-day he brought me 
 a note written by himself, and very legibly, although 
 he has never had a lesson in writing, — written in 
 Luganda, with a pointed piece of spear-grass, and 
 some ink of dubious manufacture, made of pot soot 
 and plantain juice. It ran thus — " Bwana INIackay, 
 Sembera has come with compliments and to give 
 you great news. Will you baptize him, because he 
 believes the words of Jesus Christ?" {See page 479.) 
 
 This was an interesting case. Semibera was one 
 of my very first pupils. He was most diligent. 
 He is only a slave of Munakulya, one of the first 
 vitongoles, and has taught his master to read also. 
 With me he read everything I had to put into his 
 hands : one or two Gospels, the Acts, the Books 
 of Kings, and many Psalms, besides one or two 
 Epistles. To my knowledge, his life is exemplary, 
 and his understanding and reception of Christian 
 truth very good for his limited opportunities. May 
 the Lord Himself perfect the good work begun in 
 his heart, and make him a chosen and true disciple ! 
 
 Christmas, 1S81. — A dying boy desires baptism. 
 Not long ago there died one of our lads who had 
 been reading with Mr. O'Flahcrty. He was ill, and
 
 THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 for a while \vc missed him. Then we heard that 
 he was dead. He used to show great eagerness not 
 only to learn to read, but to become acquainted 
 with the truth itself. The other day, when waiting 
 in the court precincts, Mr. O'Flaherty was accosted 
 by a lad, who handed him a Suahili Gospel, saying 
 that it was given him by Dumulira to return to the 
 white men {inuznugii). This lad's story was most 
 affecting. He said that he used to be a most ardent 
 follower of the lubarc, but he had recently come to 
 leave his old superstition ; and in proof of what he said, 
 he showed Mr. O'Flaherty that he had no longer any 
 charms about him. He continued, that his friend 
 Dumulira had asked him to come to us for medicine 
 for him, but he was afraid, as he did not know us. 
 The sick lad had assured him that we would certainly 
 either go to see him, or send him medicine. All 
 day long he read in the Gospel which he had (St. 
 Mark's) ; and when he found himself in so much pain 
 that he expected to die, he charged this lad to bring 
 back the Gospel to Mr. O'Flaherty without fail. He 
 then asked the lubare lad to go and fetch some 
 water from a pool near. When the water was 
 brought, he bade his companion sprinkle some on 
 his head, and name over him the names of the Father, 
 the Son, and the Holy Ghost. Soon after that he 
 died. I do believe that this baptism by a hihare 
 lad has been written in heaven. 
 
 It seems to have much moved the lad who told 
 the story, for he professes to have lost his faith in
 
 FIRST BAPTISMS. 
 
 the liibarc, or great evil spirit who is the god of 
 the land, and wishes to come to learn to know the 
 Book of Jesus Christ. The Word of God takes root 
 where least expected, and brings forth riper fruit 
 than our unbelieving hearts had looked to see. 
 
 Writing to his father on April 1st, 1882, he 
 sa}-s : — 
 
 "On the iSth of March, Mr. O'Flaherty bap- 
 tized five of our first converts — all young men, who 
 have been under careful instruction for some time, 
 and who have for long been eager for baptism. 
 May they have your prayers that they may stand 
 firm, in the faith amid the great heathenism around, 
 and that they may grow in grace and in the know- 
 ledge of God's most Holy Word, which can maks 
 them wise unto salvation. 
 
 "Meantime the work of translating the Scriptures 
 is going rapidly forward, while our own knowledge 
 of the language is increasing. But a layman is at 
 a great disadvantage in a mission. It is, of course, 
 expected that preaching, teaching, and translational 
 work form the chief and peculiar employment of the 
 ordained missionar}-, however qualified another may 
 be to do such worlc. Bjut secular work must also 
 be done by some one ; and if, meantime, I must 
 be emplo\'ed chiclly in that, I have no right to 
 complain, 'for the body is not one member, but 
 many. And if they were all one member, where
 
 THE TIDE EDBS AA'D FLOWS. 
 
 were the body?' All are necessar}^ and therefore 
 all are of the body, 
 
 " You remember how the sons of Kohath, Gcrshon, 
 and Merari had an important part to play in the 
 erection and carriage of the tabernacle. It would 
 never have done for these men to have 'struck' 
 because they did not get Aaron's work to do. So 
 I am content to do whatever has to be done, so 
 that the work goes forward. 
 
 " I am glad you did not take the glass off the 
 pictures you sent me. Every bit of glass is valuable 
 here. Before now I have had to drive the wolf from 
 the door on a hungry day, by taking the glass off 
 lanterns, etc., silvering them, and selling them as 
 mirrors to buy food with." 
 
 Journal, Oct. I'^jh, 1883. — This is my birthday, age 
 thirty-three. Much cause I have for thankfulness 
 to the good Lord for all His care over me in these 
 years till this day. My work at present is, I hope, 
 only preparatory to m.ore useful emplo}-ment in His 
 cause here. . . . 
 
 . . . We are truly thankful to God that no 
 more serious consequences happened in this danger- 
 ous rencontre [that of a sorcerer in one of his 
 frenzies (here called Devil possessioii) attacking Mr. 
 O'Flaherty]. I made a similar narrow escape with 
 my life in this place some years ago, once in the 
 open road, and on another occasion when the great 
 liibarc came to court, and every man and woman
 
 CLEVER ANTS. 
 
 ill the land cursed my name for bel\'ing their goddess. 
 On that occasion God alone knows what a death 
 He saved me from. 
 
 My house has of late been subject to terrible 
 attacks of black ants. Night after night they 
 swarmed into all the rooms in countless myriads. 
 Hot ashes we spread about everywhere, but only to 
 drive them from one place to another. No plague 
 of Egypt in the days of Moses could have been 
 worse than this pestilence of ferocious, biting ants. 
 The soldiers of them are half an inch long, or more, 
 and have terrible mandibles. They take so ferocious 
 a grip of the flesh that they allow themselves to 
 be pulled in two before they let go their hold on 
 one's skin. One day I had a sheep killed, and the 
 tail, which consists of pure fat, we hung up some 
 five feet from the ground on a bar. Next morning 
 I found that they had made a regular Jacob's ladder 
 from the floor to the fat tail. The soldier ants had 
 formed a chain in the air with their bodies and claws, 
 up and down which the myriads of smaller ants 
 nimbly ran, carrying off the fat ! It was a grand 
 feat of engineering. Another night I was printing. 
 The smell of the ink seemed to attract them, for in 
 they came swarming all over the wall against which 
 my table stood. 1 removed the press to the other 
 side of the room and continued my work, getting 
 ashes strewn over all the side where they were. But 
 in ten minutes they had swarmed through the wall 
 of straw right round to my new position, and on
 
 234 7"//^ TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 to the press and over all the papers. It seemed 
 that the ink took their fancy. I had to remove to 
 another room, but tliere they came also, in spite of 
 fire, ashes and all. I did not get entirely rid of thcni 
 till I had finished the impression. 
 
 A few days ago I came suddenly into my room, 
 and stopped short just in time to avoid stepping 
 on a huge serpent. The reptile had two large rats 
 in his grasp, one of which he had killed ; but the 
 other got off, as the snake's attention was attracted 
 to me- I got a stick and let fiy at the brute, but 
 he made off into the wall. I set the boys on watch 
 outside to see if he would go out, and sure enough 
 he did so, when they killed him. Next day, they 
 killed another which was about coming into my 
 room. It is the rats that these horrid vipers are 
 after. I still shudder to think of them, and thank 
 God for my preservation. 
 
 O'Fiaherty has been working for a fortnight taking 
 in a new piece of ground in the swamp at the 
 bottom of the plantation. He and the men had every 
 day encounters with snakes, killing them in great 
 numbers. Worse, however, were several most poison- 
 ous adders which they killed. The natives declare 
 that the sting of these adders produces almost in- 
 stantaneous death. I have cured several people here 
 of snake bites, by free excision of the part, and 
 application of lunar caustic. Every day I have a 
 host of cases for medical treatment. Some of them 
 alm.ost baffle my skill. Even tlic work of an accoii-
 
 A SOLEMN APPEAL. 
 
 cheur must be done by the missionary here. Poor 
 things, because I relieved one or two at first, they 
 come now imploring my aid, when their own doctors 
 fail, whether I understand the complications of their 
 case or not. But I do my best, and, by God's 
 blessing, the treatment has been generally successful. 
 They have shown themselves, too, very grateful. 
 
 The labour involved in preparing for the burial 
 of Namasole, the queen-mother, was perhaps the 
 most formidable piece of manual work forced upon 
 Mackay by the necessities of himself and his brethren. 
 His skill and willing service frequently softened the 
 temper of Mtesa, and disposed him to be friendly 
 to the Mission. We only give here the touching 
 scene in which he solemnly appeals to the king 
 about his soul's salvation. 
 
 "Tell me," said Mtesa, "how they bury in your 
 country." I said, "But let me tell you that all 
 that fine cloth and those fine coffins will one day 
 all be rotten. It may take ten years, or maj^be a 
 hundred years, or it may be {i thousand years ; 
 but one day all will be rotten, and tJie body inside 
 tvilL rot too. Now v>e know this ; hence in Chris- 
 tian countries we say that it matters little in what 
 way the body is buried, for it will rot some 
 time or other : but it matters everything what 
 becomes of the soul. Look at these two head 
 chiefs of yours sitting by }-ou. Tiie\' are bo'.h very
 
 236 THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 rich. Next to you, they are the greatest in the 
 kingdom. They have cloth, and cattle and lands, 
 and women and slaves — very much of all. Here 
 they have much honour, and when they die they 
 will be buried with much honour, but yet their 
 bodies will one day rot. Now let me have only an 
 old bark cloth, and nothing more of this world's 
 riches, and I would not exchange for all the wealth 
 and all the greatness of both, because all their great- 
 ness will pass away, while their souls are lost in 
 the darkness of belief in the lubare, while I know 
 that my soul is saved by Jesus Christ the Son of 
 God, so that I have riches that never perish, which 
 they know nothing about." 
 
 Mtesa then began with his usual excuses. " There 
 are these two religions," he said. " When Masudi 
 [a Mohammedan] reads his book, the Koran, the 
 Bazungu [Europeans] call it lies ; when the Ba- 
 zungu read their book, Masudi calls it lies : which 
 is true .'*" 
 
 I left my seat, and going forward to the mat on 
 which the Katikiro was sitting, I knelt on it, and 
 in the most solemn manner, I said, " Oh, ]\Itesa, my 
 friend, do not always repeat that excuse ! When 
 you and I stand before God at the great day of 
 judgment, will you reply to Almighty God that you 
 did not know what to believe, because Masudi told 
 you one thing and Mackay told you another .-* No, 
 you have the New Testament ; read there for your- 
 self. God will judge you by that. There never was
 
 BOOK', HAMMER AND TONGS. 237 
 
 any one yet who looked for the truth there and did 
 not find it." 
 
 The court soon after rose, 
 
 ''April, 1SS3. 
 
 " I am not a little disappointed that Wise should 
 be kept at the south end of the lake, as I have had 
 a long enough spell of work in iron and wood and 
 clay, and have been living in hopes to get an assistant 
 to relieve me of much of such work, that I may make 
 more use of the language I have been striving hard 
 to pick up — I mean in the way of teaching and trans- 
 lation. But there seems to have been a sort of fatality 
 (excuse the word) all along against artisans reaching 
 Uganda. So I must hold on as I have been doing — 
 now with book in hand, and now with hammer and 
 tongs. It is strange how different work abroad is 
 from that at home. Here we don't know anything 
 about properly attired clergymen in black cloth and 
 white tie, with sober countenance and hands undefiled 
 with things of earth. Even the Romish priests, when 
 here, with all their sacerdotal ideas, were very indus- 
 trious and industrial in their way. Perhaps you will 
 say that ' Necessity knows no law.' I allow it, but I 
 believe that St. Paul dictated his Epistles between 
 the stitches of his tent-making. 
 
 " Geikie's ' Hours with the Bible ' must be an in- 
 teresting book. I saw some time ago advertised 
 Geikie's ' Life and Words of Jesus,' and I sent to 
 our London agents for it ; perhaps it may come some 
 time within the next few years. I liave Farrar's
 
 2lS THE TIDE EBBS AND TLOIVS. 
 
 ' Life of Christ,' which has always given me much 
 pleasure to read again a chapter of. The book is a 
 romance throughout ; but one thing has struck me as 
 wanting in Farrar, and which I hope will not be so 
 wanting in Geikie, viz., a life of Christ as the' Messiah.' 
 Farrar's book is a life of/fstts, not oitJte Christ as such. 
 There seems to me to be a great subject here un- 
 written upon, except that in the list of books quoted 
 by Farrar, he mentions one called 'The Messiah' 
 (no author). I have sometimes thought that if I had 
 time I would try to grasp the subject myself, though 
 the magnitude of it appals me." 
 
 Mackay now proceeds to the south end of the 
 lake to build a boat, which was taken out in planks 
 by the late Bishop Hannington on his first journey 
 inland, and which had been presented by his friends 
 in Brighton. 
 
 "At Kaitaba's, Buzoxgora, 
 "On the Nyanza, 
 
 "9///>/,', 1883. 
 " A missionary minister is the right kind of pastor, 
 to my mind. He is sure to hold more enlarged views 
 of men and things than others, who confine their 
 thoughts to their own little circle. I cannot but agree 
 •^eartilv with vour explanation of the text in Matthew 
 xxiv. The Gospel is meant to be a witness imto, not 
 a tcstiviony against, all nations. It is undoubtedly a 
 proclamation meant to be believed, and which has 
 been, and ever will be believed, wherever faithfully
 
 THE IIEATIIEN AT HOME AND ABROAD. 2:9 
 
 proclaimed. As you showed, the very mention of 
 gathering the elect distinctly proves this. Only I don't 
 believe that, as a rule, the mere proclamation of the 
 gospel to people who have no ideas at all of God and 
 His government will lead them to believe, any more 
 than the same among heathen at home, eg., street 
 arabs, who are not so wholly destitute of knowledge 
 as heathen here ; a long and patient course of train- 
 ing seems requisite. Unfortunately, popular ideas at 
 home are very different ; hence disappointment at 
 our slow progress. But truth is better and stronger 
 than fiction, and will prevail more among right- 
 thinking men. 
 
 "You will do a noble work if you get good Chris- 
 tians in England to understand fully the exact nature 
 of the case — that the heathen do not, by nature, 
 wish the gospel, although ive know they sorely need 
 it ; that in every land people are jealous for their 
 faith, which came down from their ancestors of long- 
 lost memory ; that they are greedy of gain, and 
 jealous for their land, which they fancy we have come 
 to possess, or rather spy out with a view to our nation 
 possessing. They understand only material gain at 
 first, and are generally disappointed tliat we do not 
 aid them more in that way ; but it takes time to win 
 their confidence, and convince them that we mean to 
 be their true friends. When we have gained that 
 point, but not till then, we can build upon it.^ 
 
 " Patiently, and as intensely loving our work, b.it loving
 
 240 THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 " This is, I believe, the experience of every true 
 missionary. I am sorry that your people do not care 
 to hear more about India. It would not do for mis- 
 sionaries to be likewise ' tired of India.' That is a 
 vast field, more than all Africa put together — more 
 difficult, on account of standing creeds, and more 
 populous, although not so romantic as young Africa. 
 There we have, moreover, protection under a settled 
 government, which is all the assistance we now look 
 for in that quarter. 
 
 "I must try to put a i&\^ jottings of a journal 
 together some time, for since Christmas I have been 
 too busy to write one. Meantime, I may only say 
 that of late I have been devoting more time to 
 teaching than to anything else. We have not a itw 
 young men who are candidates for baptism, and 
 some of them have read largely with me, as we got a 
 lot of fresh translations in Suahili with our caravan 
 in the end of January. I built a small school before 
 I left, and Mr. O'Flaherty holds a short service in it 
 every morning, while on Sundays we had two services, 
 one in Suahili, and the other in Luganda. A lot 
 of young ones have been making progress in reading 
 also, and I am sending home an order for slates and 
 copy-books, maps, etc. I printed also some couple of 
 
 more those for whom we work, we must build in the spirit first 
 and from that to the flesh, and not from without inwards, 
 making even our most mechanical and outward acts alight with 
 the radiance, and aglow with the heart of pure love." — Rev. Dr 
 Clifford.
 
 BOAT BUILDING. 241 
 
 thousand pages of reading sheets, Commandments, 
 etc., with short portions of Scripture, in Luganda. I 
 had only a toy press to work with, and a poor enough 
 job at best is all that it can turn out. I shall enclose 
 a few sheets, which must meet no printer's eye, but 
 which hereabout are legible enough and intelligible 
 enough, having been revised again and again by our 
 most advanced pupils. 
 
 " I left Mr. OTlahcrty and Mr. Ashe both well, and 
 living in the new house I built : the latter upstairs," 
 
 "Urima Port, Head of Smith Sound, 
 
 "19//; Sept., 1883. 
 " I am very glad to say that not only have I got 
 both Gordon and Wise removed from that horrid 
 place Kagei, but also I have been able to get a port 
 at the head of this long creek, where we may build 
 our boat. The whole of the parts of the boat I have 
 also brought up to this place, and now, as soon as we 
 get the mail off, we mean (D.V.) to set to without 
 delay to build it. The task will be no easy one, as 
 the planks were sent out from England unpacked, 
 and are, in consequence, terribly warped, cracked, and 
 twisted with the sun. But we shall do our best, and 
 I ho]5c in a couple of months' time to see the vessel 
 nearly ready for launching. I am glad to have the 
 assistance of Wise, who, although by trade a tin- 
 smith, yet can put his hand to almost anything, and 
 is a pleasant fellow. 
 
 "I have been ill, but I feci in excellent trim again, 
 A. M. M. 16
 
 242 THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 here on the shore of my favourite Nyanza, in spite of 
 its many saddening recollections. I cannot tell you 
 how I long and pray every day for the time when 
 the present darkness shall be dispelled, and in every 
 hamlet round the lake the shadow of death shall 
 cease, and He who is the only light shall reign from 
 shore to shore. 
 
 " I was in hopes that we might get a site in this 
 populous district of Urima for a mission station, but 
 the king (!) will not agree to our staying here. He 
 is terribly afraid of white men, and lives far away in 
 some unapproachable village (to foreigners, I mean), 
 and will not have me come to see him. He fears 
 that I would bewitch him with a look, and besides, 
 I might steal his face (I suppose he means take his 
 photo), and send it to the coast for all the world to 
 laugh at. Such are royal ideas here. They are very 
 backward in Urima, and but little elevated above 
 their own cattle. When they see me reading, they 
 say that I am divining ; when I write, I am making 
 medicine {i.e., witchcraft). Nearly all the men go 
 about stark naked. Women always wear some sort of 
 clothing, generally skins of goats, scraped and ren- 
 dered soft with butter. Our camp here is on the 
 edge of the jungle, and many miles removed from 
 the villages, where they keep cattle ; hence we miss 
 sadly our daily milk. We have been able, however, 
 to buy a little honey to eat with our porridge of 
 Indian meal. How we relish it, seeing that we have 
 no suear or butter! We sometimes get a little
 
 FAPYRUS AND MOSQUITOES. 2^3 
 
 ghee or melted butter to buy, but we require it for 
 our lamp at night. Fowls we get cheap, and some- 
 times a little fish, but only rarely a change to a bit of 
 mutton. 
 
 " \Vc have got an excellent site for our camp, raisci 
 some fifty feet above the lake close by, and on the 
 brow of a rocky ironstone hill. There is a really splen- 
 did view in front, right up north and across the bay, 
 there being high hills on the other side. It looks not 
 unlike one of our long narrow Scotch lochs, only the 
 water is not get-at-able anywhere, except just at this 
 spot, for many, many miles, as all the shore is choked 
 with a wide evergreen fringe of papyrus. But only 
 one night in the neighbourhood would cause you to 
 dread the graceful top of the papyrus for ever after. 
 It is the home of myriads upon countless myriads of 
 mosquitoes, which rise from their lurking-places the 
 moment the sun goes down. The evenings are thus 
 something terrible, and I have to half smother myself 
 with smoke in my tent to get any peace at all. After 
 I get into bed and tuck in the mosquito netting 
 tightly all round, I can defy them ; but before then 
 the misery is enough to make me more than irritable. 
 After sunrise they disappear outside ; but it is, even 
 all day, impossible to brush them entirely out of the 
 tent. I left the awning of my tent at Sonda's to keep 
 the boat from splitting, and I sadly miss it here to 
 protect my poor head from this blazing sun."
 
 214 THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 '• Urima, 
 
 "4//^ Nov., 1883. 
 
 " I feci rather knocked up with work, and ill able 
 to write a decent letter. I am here alone finishing 
 the boat, and have indeed hard work, as I must do 
 everything myself — cut and shape every plank, and 
 drive every nail. I hope to have her afloat in two or 
 three weeks' time. 
 
 "At length there is good prospect of our having 
 a station at this side of the lake and, as I wished, 
 near the head of this creek. Gordon and Wise are 
 establishing themselves at Msalala, May the station 
 prove a blessing to the whole country-side, as well as 
 a convenience to the men in Uganda. This has 
 been a sorely felt want for long. 
 
 " I am practically houseless, for my old straw hut 
 in Uganda was sorely decayed when I left. I shall 
 have to build myself a cot when I get back there. A 
 very small place will do for my private wants, for I 
 have no furniture, but I have to combine in one medi- 
 cal dispensary, printing office, tool store, barn, and 
 schoolroom. Besides this, about a dozen boys always 
 sleep in my house, and very frequently some of them 
 are ill, and the place is more a hospital than anything 
 else. 
 
 " Such encumbrances are not r.ccded to-day at a 
 parson's home in England, but they once were when 
 the first missionaries struggled against Saxon savage- 
 dom. By-and'by in Uganda they will forget all 
 about the primitive state in which the first mission-
 
 THE ''ELEANOR'' LAUNCHED. 245 
 
 aries had to live. Who cares anything in England 
 about the poor men who did the battle with Druid ism 
 in the name and strength of Christ ? Savans are 
 only now acknowledging that Western arts and 
 science came from China and from Arab lands. I 
 would like to see more interest taken in the dawn of 
 Christianity in now Christian England," 
 
 "OxN BOARD C.M.S. Eleanoy, 
 
 " Head of Smith's Creek, 
 
 "9/// Dec, 1883. 
 
 " I am very much fatigued, having at last launched 
 the C.M.S. boat and rigged her ready for sea. I 
 expect Gordon up from Msalala to-morrow with 
 goods for Uganda, and I shall (D.V.) start at once. 
 as soon as I get them stored on board. I hope to 
 be able to cut right across the lake. I have been 
 fully five months absent from my station, and it is 
 high time I were back again. 
 
 " The two things I came to do are, by God's bless- 
 ing, both accomplished. I have seen the new C.M.S. 
 station started, in a good place geographically, viz., 
 at Msalala, twelve miles south of this port, which is 
 opposite Nego, and at the very head of the creek. 
 Gordon and Wise are both well, and I hope will con- 
 tinue so. They are really nearer the lake than we 
 arc in Uganda. 
 
 "I hav^e further built the boat, which I hope will 
 prove of long and useful service to the Mission. I 
 have a small and ver\' raw crew — three men four
 
 2.t6 THE TIDE EBBS AXD FLOWS. 
 
 boys^ a woman, and a monkey. Meat and firewood 
 and earthen pots I have laid in for the voyage. These, 
 with some fifty loads of bales and boxes, fill the boat. 
 I have made for myself a small quarter-deck or poop, 
 on which to act the skipper ; and if God gives us 
 favourable wind and weather, we shall not be long in 
 crossing. I hope the vessel will prove more useful 
 than even the Daisy. She is much stronger, but might 
 have been stronger still, had she been properly packed 
 for transit up country. I am anchored out in mid- 
 water, glad to get away from the terrible den of mos- 
 quitoes, in which I have been a victim for the last 
 three months. 
 
 " It is late, and I must lie down, for I shall have 
 little sleep for a week, there being no one on board 
 who can relieve me of the helm, or even set the sails 
 properly. They will learn by degrees. 
 
 *' I hope you will ever continue to pray for us, that 
 in our lives here we may be able to walk as living 
 epistles, seen and read of all men." 
 
 " Victoria Nyanza, 
 
 "On board C.M.S. Eleanor, 
 
 " 2 \ St Jan., 1S84. 
 " I fear that for some little time the long creek 
 (Smith'a) to Urima will be rather unsafe for us. I learn 
 here (Buzongora), that the grand Admiral Gabunga, 
 who has gone with 180 canoes to attack Roma (who 
 owns all the west side of the creek and the bit of 
 road between the head of it and IMsalala), has found
 
 UNDER SUSPICION. 247 
 
 his force insufficient, and is on his way back, havin-^ 
 fought only some islands off Roma's coast. This 
 will only leave Roma more an enemy than ever, and 
 likely to seek a revenge on our boat (as coming from 
 Uganda), should I sail up the creek just now. These 
 horrid wars are ever now and again cropping up and 
 hindering our work. Even Kagei and the whole of 
 Usukuma, Mtesa has his eye on, as they have much 
 cattle. It was for that reason that I was anxious to 
 take Gordon and Wise well away from there, and 
 quarter them in friendly Mirambo's land. 
 
 " Ukercwe is already under the thumb of Uganda, 
 and that prevents our having a station there at present, 
 as Mtesa is greedy to have all the white men at 
 his capital, that he may get all their presents himself 
 I only hope that in time he will give up this foolish 
 jealousy. It requires the most careful diplomatic 
 skill to so humour the court of Uganda that we may 
 have toleration there at all, not to speak of the more 
 remote provinces. We would naturally like to settle 
 where we choose, and carry on our work quietly and 
 without demonstration ; but that is perfectly im- 
 possible. The case is not like early Christian times, 
 when the propagatoi"s of Christianity were themselves 
 Roman subjects. We are outsiders, and belong to a 
 nation ever accused in these quarters of an aggressive 
 policy. The powers that be can never believe that 
 we have come merely as teachers of religion. It will 
 take perhaps a century to teach them that. Then, 
 as missions multipl}', European subjects also muN
 
 THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 tiply. Complications arise. Consuls are appointed 
 to protect their interests. Wars go on among the 
 natives, and Europeans against their will get involved. 
 The end always has been annexation. Our Arab 
 enemies then triumph over the verification of their 
 predictions. 
 
 " Mr. Roger Price wrote me recently, telling a sad 
 story of the incessant wars between the Boers and 
 the natives in his neighbourhood, hindering their 
 mission work greatly. 
 
 " I put in here to try to get food, but it is very 
 scarce, and I must get under weigh again, hoping to 
 reach Kagei before what we have is exhausted. 
 The islands between this and there are all now re- 
 duced to jungle, the Baganda having plundered them 
 all long ago. Their conquests bring little good, leaving 
 only desolation where once were flourishing planta- 
 tions. Only the natives whom they rob are generally 
 a grade worse than themselves. You will remember 
 Stanley's reception by the people of Bumbire, and 
 Smith's loss of an eye at Ukara. Since then the 
 Babumbire have been pacified. Ukara's turn will 
 come by-and-by." 
 
 " Victoria Nyanza, 
 
 " 15/// April, 1884. 
 
 "A fortnight ago I left the brethren both well and 
 
 fully occupied, in Uganda. Inquirers continue to 
 
 increase, and several more have been baptized. After 
 
 some talk I got my brethren to agree to having a
 
 A PREPARATION CLASS. 2.^9 
 
 class twice a week for the fuller instruction of those 
 already baptized, especially with a view to preparing^ 
 them for receiving the communion. They agreed to 
 defer admitting all and sundry to that sacred rite, 
 until they received further teaching, and we had 
 more opportunity of marking their life and wallc. I 
 took this class myself on Sunday afternoons when I 
 was there, and meantime, in my absence, O'Flaherty 
 or Ashe takes it. The subject I commenced with, and 
 which I mean (D.V.) to go right on with, is the Life 
 of Christ. 
 
 "With people almost totally unfamiliar with the 
 gospel narrative, I think the careful study of such a 
 subject will do them more real good than sermons 
 from isolated texts, which m)' brethren, in accord- 
 ance with received notions, go in for. 
 
 " Unhappily, every second month at least, I have 
 to spend several weeks on the lake. But I am getting 
 impatient of calms and contrary winds, and shall soon 
 make an effort to erect our steam machinery and fit 
 it into the boat, so as to make the lake journey, to and 
 fro, a matter of only a few days. This will take some 
 considerable labour and skill too, but it is, 1 think, 
 worth the pains, especially as our numbers are small, 
 and time is men here, if it is money in England. 
 Perhaps I should say that the gain of it is economy 
 everywhere. 
 
 " Last trip north I took with me all that could be 
 found (after many years and wanderings) of our 
 printing-press. Many essential parts were entirely
 
 250 THE TIDE EBBS AND FLOWS. 
 
 wanting, having been lost or stolen ; but by dint of 
 hard work at forge and lathe and vice/ I had it 
 almost in working order by the time I left. On my 
 return I hope to be able to set to work to print with 
 it. I intend to print, in the first instance, the Sermon 
 on the illonnt, in Luganda. After that I think we 
 shall try the Gospel of Luke, of course in Luganda 
 also. Tiien we have the Church Service, hymns, and 
 all sorely needed in print. Ashe is anxious to learn 
 to help with the printing, and I shall be glad when I 
 get him sufficiently skilled to take that department 
 entirely off my hands. 
 
 " On my arrival at our station, I found myself 
 houseless. So I set to work sending all hands to cut 
 grass for a month, pulling down several old huts to 
 get thatch to repair the better ones. My own house 
 seemed to be no better after patching the thatch, so 
 I pulled down the walls piecemeal, building them 
 much shorter than before, letting the roof thus dip 
 to throw the rain off. The clergymen's house and 
 my own I got so far rain-proof that I was able to 
 
 ^ " ]\Iechanical work is probably as legilimatc an aid to 
 missions as medical ; nor do I see why one should not be as 
 helpful to missionary work as the other, except for the difiiculty 
 of getting out of the rut our ideas run in. I believe, too, that 
 the present facilities for prosecuting missionary work at the ends 
 of the earth are more due to the advance the century has made 
 in mechanics than in medicine. The former have provided surer 
 means of locomotion, and by facilitating production of clothing, 
 etc., have stimulated trade in many a cjuarter untouched by 
 foreigners before."— /i. M. Mackay.
 
 HARD LINES. 
 
 build next houses for the donkey and goats and 
 calves. These were almost finished when I had to 
 leave to catch moonlight for the voyage. 
 
 " But such a tempestuous voyage tsis has been ! 
 By day, calms and head winds, making almost no 
 progress, so that I had to sail at night. Every second 
 night no sleep, and sometimes two nights on end. 
 This wretched boat, too, has been provided with so 
 poor an awning that it rains mercilessly through at 
 times. After struggling all night with a gale and 
 high sea and rain, to meet the da}-brcak dripping wet, 
 cold, and dreary, is no extra-pleasant sensation. 
 But the Lord has all along preserved us in many 
 a peril ; and when one gets to a safe anchorage, 
 and a fire lighted on board and a cup of tea, one lies 
 down to sleep with the feeling that the rest is well 
 earned. But I need not trouble you with my experi- 
 ences on this lake, which has no place in the world's 
 history or thought. 
 
 "The boat is rolling terribly, hence steady writing 
 is quite impossible. I must apologize for the illegibility 
 of this, which I fear I could not read myself unless I 
 had recently written it. Off and on, too, is the best 
 I can get, now writing a few lines, now looking after 
 the sails and course."
 
 FIERY TRIALS.
 
 '• I lake this powerful body of native Cliristians in the heart 
 of Africa — who prefer exile for the sake of their faith to serving 
 a monarch indifferent or hostile to their faith — as more substan- 
 tial evidence of the work of Mackay than any number of im- 
 posing structures clustered together and called a Mission station 
 would be. These native Africans have endured the most deadly 
 persecutions — the stake and the fire, the cord and the club, the 
 sharp knife and the rifle bullet have all been tried to cause them 
 to reject the teachings they have absorbed. Staunch in their 
 beliefs, firm in their convictions, they have held together stoutly 
 and resolutely, and Mackay and Ashe may point to these with a 
 righteous pride as the results of their labours to the goodkindly 
 people at home who trusted in them." — H. M. Stanley.
 
 D 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 URING the life of Mtcsa the missionaries were 
 at least protected from personal violence, and 
 frequently were in favour and permitted fully to carry 
 on their work ; but the old heathenism still kept its 
 place in the hearts of the greater number of the 
 chiefs, and, but for Mtcsa's strong hand and superior 
 intelligence and sympathy with enlightenment and 
 progress, would frequently have broken out into active 
 hostility to the white men. 
 
 In October of 1SS4 Mtcsa died, and his son 
 Mvvanga, a weak, vain, and vicious man, a worse 
 and altogether weaker man than Mtesa, came to the 
 throne. 
 
 Shortly afterwards intelligence of the arrival of 
 Bishop Hannington by way of Kavirondo reached 
 the capital, and at once placed the missionaries in the 
 greatest personal danger, from the long-standing fears 
 of the Baganda that the appearance of white men 
 from the east, and by what they called " the back- 
 door of Uganda," was the sure precursor of conquest 
 It was this fear of coming danger, and not hatred to 
 the Christian religion, that led the chiefs of Uganda
 
 2;6 IIEKY TIBIALS. 
 
 with Mwanga at their head, to demand the death of 
 the bishop. When the deed was done, a greater fear 
 took possession of Mwanga. He was in constant 
 terror lest the power of England should be brought 
 to bear, to revenge the murder of the bishop. This 
 fear, working in his barbarous heart, led to a chronic 
 state of jealousy and suspicion against the Mission 
 and its work, and roused the beast in him, till it led 
 to an outbreak of the old heathen cruelty, which 
 had abated and in some of its violent forms ceased. 
 The new religion forbids cruelty and murder, there- 
 fore Mwanga would be cruel and murderous ; and 
 then followed mutilations, strangling, burning, and 
 unmentionable horrors, some of which arc described 
 in Mackay's letters home, but over which he for the 
 most part draws the veil. He was afraid lest too 
 much might be made of these so-called martyrdoms, 
 yet he did not doubt the real piety of many of the 
 sufferers. 
 
 " MSALALA, June 6th, 18S5. 
 
 "Your very welcome letter of IMarcli 3rd has just 
 come. How many letters you have sent, me since 
 last August I cannot tell, as I am waiting for them to 
 be sent back here from Kagei, where they have gone. 
 
 "All these long, weary months, how have we 
 longed for news from home ! Trouble and danger 
 and illness with gloomy prospects would have been 
 much relieved, had we got a line or two from our 
 friends ; but that could not be. Still we were borne 
 up in it all by a mightier Hand than our own. And
 
 FI/'!ST MAKTYKS h\ UGANDA. 257 
 
 now I am here alive and well, to ask you to join us 
 \n praising our Father in heaven, who has not left us 
 even in great danger, and who is in it all, leading 
 us closer to Himself, and guiding His own work 
 through blood and fire. 
 
 " Our first martyrs have won the martyr's crown. 
 On January 30th three Christian lads were burnt 
 alive, after being terribly mutilated, for their recep- 
 tion of and adherence to the faith of Jesus Christ. 
 They were snatched from our very presence, ac- 
 cused of no crime but that they were learning 
 from us, and first tortured, then roasted alive. 
 
 " Both Ashe and I suffered a deal of personal vio- 
 lence, but that was soon over, and was nothing to the 
 anxiety of mind which we suffered on account of 
 the cruel death of the dear lads, and the threats of 
 determined persecution against the whole of the 
 native Christians ; the threats of robbery and expul- 
 sion of ourselves ; and later on a rebellion of the 
 chiefs, whose aim was to make a complete end of us. 
 But by a sharp stroke the king arrested the ring- 
 leaders and deposed the others. Since then we have 
 had less to fear ; and though the king is young and 
 unstable, he has again and again asserted his deter- 
 mination to stand by us, probably because in doing 
 so he finds a way of escape from the demands made 
 upon him by the old chiefs and sorcerers, which he 
 finds irksome. 
 
 "There are some of the chiefs by no means friendly 
 to us, but doubtless their day of power will be short 
 
 A. M. M. 17
 
 258 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 Of course, as in many similar cases, their suspicion 
 of us arises from pure ignorance. We only must 
 endeavour to enlighten them; but whether the powers 
 are friendly or not, we must put no confidence in their 
 favour or dislike. The work of God will stand and 
 grow quite independently of their patronage or oppo- 
 sition. 
 
 " I believe that a work has been begun in Uganda 
 which has its origin in the power of God, and which 
 never can be uprooted by all the forces of evil. 
 
 " Some young Christians are very bold, sometimes 
 I think more courageous than prudent. While many 
 of them have gone into hiding through natural alarm 
 for their lives, others we have to urge to keep out of 
 the way, knowing that they are in great danger. 
 But whether their retirement has been voluntary or 
 compulsory, I myself do not know of a single case in 
 which any one preferred to draw back and renounce 
 Christianity. 
 
 "Doubtless you will recall passages in Christian 
 history in Europe, when persecution seemed to be 
 infectious, and man)- were led to stand together from 
 feelings of a new enthusiasm. History but repeats 
 itself. The powers arrayed against Christianity 
 in Nero's reign are just the same as those fighting 
 against it to-day in Central Africa. It is with the 
 same weapons, too, that the battle has to be fought 
 and won. 
 
 " Your remarks on the Soudan campaign I cannot 
 agree with. Tht- IMahdi, a Mohammedan Messiah,
 
 THE SOUDAN AND THE MAHDL 259 
 
 cannot, by the nature of his claims, rest content with 
 only the Soudan, or even a part of it. His demands 
 are like those of Christianity, ' No compromise.' It 
 is not any more to-day a struggle for liberty and inde- 
 pendence than were the wars of Mohammed and his 
 successors the Caliphs. They may use these words, 
 but we know they are false. The question is simply 
 a mutiny among the Mohammedans. Who is the 
 true successor of the Prophet, the new ]\Iahdi or the 
 Sultan of Turkey } We care nothing for the religious 
 pretensions of either the one or the other ; but when 
 the problem has to be solved by arms, and has far- 
 reaching influences through the whole Mohammedan 
 world, we have a right to reduce the usurping power, 
 which is a wild fanaticism. What liberty will, the 
 poor Soudanese have under the Mahdi and his suc- 
 cessors .'' Surely such governors as Gordon, acting 
 in the name of the Khedive, will exercise a more 
 humane sway on these great provinces than a wild 
 fanatic. 
 
 " We know what Islam has been in the past, and 
 to-day it is not difterent. It has been the ruin of 
 many fair lands, and besides has this strange venom in 
 it, that people ma}', with comparative ease, be led to 
 embrace Christianity when simply heathen, but when 
 Islam has puts its vile name on them, though ever so 
 superficially, there is no doing anything with them 
 after that. The universal failure of missions to 
 Moslems throughout the world proves this incon- 
 trovertibly. Since I came to the East. I have been
 
 26o FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 familiar with the genius of the Moslem creed as I 
 never was in England. 
 
 " Its sole reliance for conversion has ever been the 
 sword, and that power has done everything for it in 
 the past. Christianity cannot use these means for 
 its promulgation, and wherever it does it ceases to 
 be Christianity. But the sword has ever been used 
 of God in subduing that terrible evil, and thus pre- 
 paring the way for teachers of Christianity to use 
 peace ful powers of persuasion. 
 
 "Gordon was right in disclaiming an army to re- 
 lieve himself It is the loyal, peaceful people of the 
 Soudan that must be relieved from their enemies, the 
 Mahdists. But to take them out of the country is 
 not to relieve them, any more than loyal Irish should 
 be taken away from their homes because the Fenians 
 demand to be allowed to rule. The surest way, and 
 the most merciful way to protect the good is to 
 cruhh by a sharp stroke the indomitable evil." 
 
 "Uganda, Sept. 28///, 1SS5. 
 "Your two most truly welcome letters of April i6th 
 and May 20th reached me together a fortnight ago 
 T was then far from here, having accompanied the 
 king on a tour through the west of his dominions. 
 Ashe and O'Flaherty remained here at the station. 
 Two of the Romanists were also ordered to remain at 
 the capital, while Pere Lourdel was appointed to go 
 in the expedition. We were less than a month away, 
 and for half the time we halted at a place called
 
 THE GERMAA'S IN AFRICA. 261 
 
 Nkanaga, not far from the Katonga River, which 
 forms the western boundary of Uganda proper. That 
 is by no means the limit of the kingdom, as beyond 
 it is Budu, a rich province, and beyond that again 
 Hes the tributary principaHties of Buzongora and 
 Tangiro. But I reflect that these details are of no 
 value to you, or interest either. The day is sure to 
 come, however, if the present age lasts much longer, 
 when all these regions of Central Africa will become 
 incorporated within the limits of the known world, 
 and each and all will be colonies of das Deutsche 
 ReicJi, or some other European power. This year 
 has already seen strange doings in Africa. There is 
 the great Congo State — an empire in itself — with 
 Stanley as viceroy. How thankful the Churches 
 ought to be (especially the Baptists) for the promise 
 of protection and encouragement in pushing forward 
 their stations through such a grand reach of territory ! 
 Now is the time for the Churches to rise and take 
 possesion of Central Africa in Christ's name. East 
 Africa I what shall I say of it ? Already the ice 
 is broken, and Bismarck is close by. Our position is 
 thus rendered much more dangerous-. Some time ago 
 we heard of the Germans in Useguha (Usagara), but 
 they were 'io.w^ and attracted so little attention, thai 
 the news seems never to have reached this court. 
 This mail, however, has brought a telegram of the 
 German fleet being on the way to Zanzibar ; while the 
 Arabs have heard, and of course declared publicly, 
 that the Bazungu (as all Europeans are called) have
 
 262 FJERY TRIALS. 
 
 eaten a territory near the coast, and demanded a port 
 (Bagamoyo ?), and on that being refused them, they 
 have declared war against Said Burgash. All this 
 has raised the suspicions of the authorities here to the 
 highest pitch. Ever and ever the Arabs have alleged 
 that we were only the pioneers of conquest. Mtesa 
 put them off, saying, ' Well, the white men will not 
 begin at the interior to eat the land ; when I see them 
 beginning at the coast, then I shall believe.' Now 
 the beginning has been made at the coast, and a good 
 way inland too ; while, if all reports are true, the aim 
 of Berlin is to the great lakes. Most heartily would 
 I wish to see it an accomplished fact ; but the trans- 
 ition stage involves the poor missionaries inland in 
 very great danger. ]5adly, indeed, does the black 
 man know how to govern ; but he is at the same time 
 most jealous of his petty kingdom, and he has, 
 naturally, a good right to be so. But God on high 
 reigns, and ^ives of the kingdoms on earth to whom 
 He will. He, too, is our Father, and cares likewise 
 for His few children scattered here and there among 
 the heathen. 
 
 " To complicate matters, the bishop has elected 
 to try the Masai route, and strike the lake at the 
 north-east corner, near Busoga. Now in Uganda 
 there has ever been the keenest alarm lest their 
 country be approached from that side, as they know 
 the lake is a fair barrier to the south, but from 
 Busoga the solid land stretches off without a break- 
 all the way eastward to the coast. A/1 the terrible
 
 ANXIETY ABOUT HANNINGTON. 263 
 
 troubles we had in February of this year, and which 
 all but cost the Mission its existence, seemed to be 
 due to the suspicion aroused by the report of Thom- 
 son, of the R.G.S., being in Busoga, although he left 
 immediately. 
 
 " A few days ago, Ashe and I went to court with 
 a present to his majesty, and begged permission to 
 send our boat to look for the bishop on the east 
 side of the lake, explaining that his reason for coming 
 that way was to avoid the Germans in Useguha. Of 
 course, I told all we knew about Bismarck versus 
 Burgash, anci had to submit to a severe cross- ques- 
 tioning on the matter. I could see that the informa- 
 tion was rather startling. Next day there was a 
 council of king and chiefs, at which some proposed 
 to fight the bishop if he came, others to prevent his 
 coming at all, while another chief recommended that 
 we should all be killed, as we were certainly only the 
 forerunners of the white men at the coast, who were 
 at war with Said Burgash, and were on their way to 
 take this country from them. The king's prospect 
 of getting presents induced him to overrule these 
 deliberations, and to suggest that a messenger be 
 sent in our boat to spy what like the Bishop & Co. 
 are, and if the report be fair, to send for them. 
 
 "To-day O'Flaherty has been at court, and has 
 been able to make further explanations, so that he 
 has got permission to go to Msalala in the boat, 
 where we hope Stokes will be waiting to go to Kavi- 
 rondo, to find the bishop. I should have gone my-
 
 264 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 self, but Stokes will do just as well, probably much 
 better ; while Ashe and I are anxious to proceed as 
 rapidly as possible with the publication of St. Matthew 
 in Luganda. 
 
 "Our young king has some good points, but I fear 
 few. He is still a \-outh — fickle, fitful, and not a little 
 revengeful. He is much afraid of his older chiefs 
 when it is a question of doing anything in what we 
 would call a right direction. No such scruples seem 
 to come in his way when he wants to kill a score or 
 two of his poor subjects. Princes are peculiarly hard 
 to persuade. I only hope that by striving to obtain 
 some personal influence over him, I may be able to 
 effect any good with him. There is no use trying 
 to teach him, or other big folk, in any authoritative 
 way. There was a John the Baptist that held high 
 the banner of truth before Herod, but we know the 
 result. I do not believe that the gospel dispensation 
 means us to work exactly in that way, i.e., altogether. 
 John Knox tried it with Queen Mary, But in what- 
 ever way we work, there is little doubt, as General 
 Gordon said, but that potentates have ever been more 
 a hindrance than a help to Christianity. It is only 
 when the power of our faith is felt among the 
 people that the rulers generally become compelled 
 to sanction — shall I say patronize it. 
 
 "Our Church grows. Our new chapel is already 
 much too small — every week more crowded, and the 
 school, too, is flourishing. We have at present some 
 thirty candidates eager for bapli.-.m, and on the
 
 THE BISHOP IN DANGER. 2bS 
 
 whole well prepared. I have my couple of hours in 
 the school every forenoon, and spend the most of 
 every afternoon in translation. I am not a little 
 worried, besides, with having to do various kinds of 
 work for the king. Rest by-and-by. 
 
 " I am ordering Professor Drummond's book on 
 your recommendation." 
 
 To HIS Father : — 
 
 " Uganda, Oct. 2-jih, 1885. 
 " We are in much trouble once more. It is less 
 than a month since I wrote to }'ou. Then we had 
 just escaped being put to death because of the 
 German doings at the coast, coupled with the 
 expected arrival of the bishop through the Masai 
 country. We got the boat sent to take the bishop 
 and party to Msalala from Kavirondo, where he 
 expected to reach the lake. But he seems to have 
 changed his mind and come right on through Busoga. 
 He seems to have reached near the other side of 
 Ripon Falls, when he was met by an army of 
 Baganda, which had gone that way on a slave raid. 
 He was made prisoner by them, and word came 
 here. Our king and chief councillors sent next day 
 (25th) a peremptory order to kill both the bishop 
 and his whole party, and leave not one ! We hear 
 that another European was with the bishop, and 
 twenty porters ; while three more white men were 
 somewhere behind with the caravan. God alone 
 knows whether they will f^scape from falling into
 
 266 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 the treacherous hands of the Baganda. I fear that 
 by the time of writing this, the executioners sent 
 from this have arrived where the poor bishop and his 
 companion are lying in the stoclis, and have done 
 their bloody work. It is too dreadful to think of, and 
 we only hope that God has heard our prayers, and by 
 miracle delivered our brethren. We liavc tried every 
 day to see the king, but in vain. He refused to see 
 us, although we implored an interview, and that he 
 would save our brethren. This moment I hear that 
 they have to-day sent messengers with a letter we 
 wrote, asking the bishop to go back. But I fear all 
 too late. 
 
 "We ourselves are in a position of great danger, 
 we believe. We are suspected of political aims, and 
 are called spies and pioneers of invasion. Our pupils 
 are believed to be won over to English rule, and to 
 be false to their country. All are thus suddenly dis- 
 persed. We dare not even ask permission to leave. 
 We were refused last February, when they burnt our 
 boys, lest we should return to avenge our wrongs. 
 We have written a letter to Sir John Kirk to request 
 this king to let us leave in peace. When ? Mean- 
 time our cause will be, as it ever has been, in God's 
 care, and His will be done. But it is dreadful sus- 
 pense to have, as it were, a sword continually over 
 one's head. The chief minister or judge is, we know, 
 our worst foe. 
 
 "This may be intercepted. We are sending it by 
 stealth. But whatever may happen, reliable news
 
 THE BISHOP MURDERED. 267 
 
 can afterwards be had from our Christian natives, who 
 sympathize with us deeply, beini^ in great jeopardy 
 themselves. We shall lose no chance of writing 
 again. May we have better news to tell." 
 
 " Uganda, Dec oj/i, 1885. 
 
 "We are still in the depth of trouble, but hitherto 
 our Lord has upheld us and preserved us from wicked 
 and unreasonable men. He who sees the end from 
 the beginning is our onl}- hope and refuge, for sure 
 enough there is no earthly power of any avail to 
 protect us where we are. On the 27th October I was 
 able to send you a few lines concealed in the French- 
 men's packet. If that reaches you, )'ou will be pre- 
 pared for further news of the kind. 
 
 " There is no doubt at all now but that King 
 Mwanga has murdered Bishop Hannington and his 
 whole party of porters. In the providence of God no 
 other European was travelling with the bishop, other- 
 wise certainly they had by now been all murdered 
 likewise. 
 
 " We had grave fears for Stokes, who went to the 
 east side of the lake in the Mirenibc to look for the 
 bishop. We dreaded his falling into the hands of 
 the Baganda, who have gone raiding in that direction. 
 But Stokes, hearing nothing of the bishop, waited 
 only two days off Kavirondo, and returned to Msalala, 
 thence to Uyui. 
 
 " Recently we discovered a plot on the part of the 
 king and head chiefs, to kill us all. We sent them a
 
 268 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 rich present of nearly a score of loads of our most 
 valuable effects, saying nothing of what we had 
 heard. They at once asked us who had told us that 
 they were going to kill us. Wc refused to tell, on 
 which we were abused by the king and threatened, 
 a peremptory order being given that no person was 
 to come near our station under pain of death. He 
 would put us in the stocks, he said, and he challenged 
 England and all Europe to rescue us! Had L'konge 
 not killed white men, and had the Queen been able 
 to touch him .'' had not Mirambo done likewise, and 
 had the Queen been able to reach him ? 
 
 " W'e replied never a word to this bullying, nor 
 have we ventured to even once allude to the murder 
 of our bishop. 
 
 " The king's own favourite page, the head of his 
 personal servants, ventured to say to him one day that 
 it was wrong to kill the bishop, as white men came 
 only as benefactors of the country. The lad was at 
 once ordered off for execution, and was burnt alive 
 that very day. 
 
 " Mwanga thought that in killing this man he could 
 suppress the news of his murdering the bishop, 
 while he believed that this same lad had told us of 
 his plan to kill us. He fears greatly that we mean 
 vengeance on him for his cruel work, and to remove 
 this suspicion we gave him the valuable present. 
 
 " But there will be a rare blow-up when they find 
 out here that news of their having killed the bishop 
 lias reached the coast. It will be a most unsafe posi'
 
 ESCAPE IMPOSSIBLE. 269 
 
 tion for any Europeans who may then be here. But 
 we need not be anxious for the distant morrow. God 
 reigns, and even the heart of kings is in His keeping. 
 But we beheve it would be wisest for us to withdraw 
 from the country, if we could, until such time as the 
 Mission could be replanted on a firmer footing. But 
 the king, while he would be glad to get rid of us, yet 
 fears that, if we leave, we mean to bring evil upon 
 him, as he knows that he has committed a dreadful 
 crime, and fears retribution. 
 
 " It is almost impossible for us to escape by stealth, 
 even when our boat is here, as the port is twelve 
 miles off, and the bay long, before one could get out 
 into open sea, where alone we need not fear pur- 
 suit by canoes. Meantime we hope O'Flaherty will 
 get permission to leave quietly, and our number being 
 thus reduced, suspicion may be reduced also. They 
 will persist in believing that we are political agents, 
 and that our teaching is only with a view to gain over 
 the people to side with us, and then to overthrow the 
 constitution ! 
 
 "After our troubles last spring, Ashe and I wrote 
 to Sir John Kirk, requesting him to inform Mwanga 
 that we were merely teachers, aiid had no connection 
 with the British Government. This mail brought 
 Sir John's reply, in which he very nicely begs the 
 king to give us liberty to teach and travel, etc., as we 
 are not political agents. But Mwanga seems ill-dis- 
 posed to believe the Consul's letter, and as yet has 
 "iven no answer. He seems determined to stiffen his
 
 270 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 neck, like Theodore of Abyssinia, believing fully in 
 his own supremacy above all the nations of the world ! 
 Don't laugh. It is not amusing here to be in the 
 clutches of such a tyrant. But we have suffered so 
 much already from distracting fears, that we have, I 
 believe, become more callous, while perhaps, too, we 
 have learned to lean more implicitly on the protec- 
 tion of our Father in heaven. But human nature is 
 frail. 
 
 " Sir John Kirk has sent to ask Mvvanga to relieve 
 Emin and the other Egyptian officers in Equatorial 
 Soudan. 
 
 " I fear he cannot do that even if he would, as Ka- 
 barega has rebelled, and is at hostilities with Uganda, 
 besides having always been an enemy to white men 
 ever since Baker was there. It may be that Mwanga 
 may change his mind, but in his present mood he 
 is far too frightened to bring Europeans into the 
 country. He is always suspecting designs against 
 his throne." 
 
 "Uganda, Dec. i^rd, 1885. 
 
 " Since the end of October, even of September, we 
 have had little or no peace here. I sent word to the 
 coast nearly two months ago that our long-expected 
 bishop arrived safely in Busoga, and immediately the 
 king here sent to murder him and all his men. There 
 is no doubt now but that this has been done. We 
 have the evidence of eye-witnesses, but we dare not 
 betray to the authorities our knowledge of their crime. 
 Soon afterwards we discovered a plot to murder our-
 
 THE KING FEARS RETRIBUTION. 271 
 
 selves. The king was terribl)' annoyed that we found 
 him out in this, and of course denied it, as he does 
 the murder of the bishop and his party (fifty men, or 
 more as some say). 
 
 " We had been enjoyinc^ much blessing in our 
 work, and many more have been baptized. Now, no 
 one is allowed to come near us under pain of death. 
 Yet they do come, chiefly at night. IMwanga would 
 be glad to get rid of us, yet he will not let us go, 
 all of us at any rate, as he means to keep us as 
 hostages, because he dreads punishment. At the 
 same time, he threatens to put us in the stocks, and 
 challenges England and the whole of Europe to try 
 to release us. 
 
 "One great cause for thankfulness is that Air. 
 O'Flaherty has got permission to leave. 
 
 " But you need not be anxious for us. We are, if 
 possible, more especially in God's hands in time of 
 trouble than in peace and prosperity. Even kings' 
 hearts are turned by God. We know that we shall 
 ever have your prayers and hopes and best wishes 
 and remembrances. 
 
 " We have been able to get hold of the bishop's 
 private diary of his march, and we send it home. It 
 is all that we have yet to send to Mrs. Hannington 
 of her husband's belongings. But we may, in God's 
 providence, get more yet. The bishop's goods have 
 all been brought to the capital, but not yet taken 
 within the palace grounds. IMwanga seems afraid 
 but we have seen no trace of repentance in him as
 
 272 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 yet, only increased suspicion and fear of us. We had 
 to give him a valuable present of all our most valuable 
 efifects, to remove his dread that we meant revenge 
 for the death of the bishop. His head page, a Chris* 
 tian man, and most faithful servant, he ordered to be 
 burned alive, for saying to him that it was wrong to 
 kill the bishop, as his father Mtesa would not have 
 done anything of the kind. 
 
 " How all this matter will end, who can tell .'' 
 Mwanga allows that he has been guided by the fact, 
 that no notice was taken by the British Government 
 of the death of Smith and O'Neill in Ukerewc, or 
 of the deaths of Captains Carter and Cadenhead 
 by Mirambo's people. In these instances there was 
 some sort of excuse or reason. But this case is one 
 of cold-blooded, determined atrocity, with no shadow 
 of an excuse." 
 
 "Uganda, Feb. jt/i, 1886. 
 
 " You speak of change. We have ever some change 
 here, for we seem to be continually getting involved, 
 or supposed to be involved, in some new difficulty. 
 The last is that two days ago I got a letter put into 
 my hands privately. It was from the lost Russian 
 traveller. Dr. Junker. He writes from Kabarega's 
 capital, in Bunyoro, craving for news, as he has been 
 three years without intelligence of the outside, or 
 even African, world. Neither he nor Emin Bey nor 
 any one on the Equator, knows a word of the fall of 
 Khartoum, or death of Gordon, or of the Mahdi, or 
 that an English army was in the Soudan ; the rebels
 
 HELPS DR. JUNKER. 273 
 
 have so entirely closed their road by the Nile. 
 Junker craves permission to come here, and I have 
 got the king to send for him. But he has come at a 
 very awkward time, for war has been declared against 
 Bunyoro by this country, and the whole land is up in 
 arms and oft" to the front. A message has been sent 
 to tlie commander-in-chief to let the traveller pass 
 this way in safety. The reason of the war is chiefly, 
 that a rumour came that Emin Bey and Egyptian 
 soldiers had joined Kabarega. Now, it seems to be 
 only Junker and his two or three servants. But I 
 fear that Kabarega will detain him by force, and in- 
 volve the unhappy man in more danger. We have 
 done our best on his behalf, and having secured this 
 king's order to have him brought; we can do no more, 
 hoping it is God's will that a second white man's 
 blood be not shed, and this country, in that way, get 
 more deeply involved. I believe the authorities here 
 are anxious to save him, to make up in a measure 
 for their murder of Bishop Hannington and all his 
 people. What is to be the outcome of that dreadful 
 business, who can tell .-' If my letters of 27th Oct. 
 reached the coast, and the news was telegraphed, 
 you will all, by this time, be in possession of that sad 
 story, and be in a state of no little anxiety for our 
 safety here. What deep anxiety we ourselves have 
 been in, I cannot describe. First our bishoj) was con- 
 demned to death, and cruelly murdered ; then we 
 were under a similar sentence ; but the good hand of 
 the Lord has been upon us, and we are still spared. 
 A. M. iM. 18
 
 274 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 Then our converts were practically doomed, one good 
 lad being burned to death, and others arrested and 
 sentenced likewise, while no one was permitted to 
 come near us, under pain of execution. 
 
 " By-and-by we got Mr. O'Flaherty awa}' in peace, 
 and Ashe and I remain, slowly getting once more 
 greater liberty, as being perhaps in less disfavour 
 Most of our people are, however, off to the war, yet 
 we have our hands full of work, and are always tired 
 enough ere the day is done. You will in all likelihood 
 have read the story of our trials, which I sent to the 
 C.M.S. at Christmas. I need not, therefore, repeat 
 the sorrowful tale here. We have been brought 
 through deep troubles, yet the Lord has not forsaken 
 us. \Vc may say, Ebenezer. Strange how really one 
 is cast in such cases on the protecting power of God, 
 which we are all, by some strange infatuation, so slow 
 to believe in. Anything human — plans, devices, fears 
 — man natural!}' indulges in ; but to trust in God 
 implicitly i;", foolishly enough, only a kind of ' last 
 resource.' But it is only when we come to that, that 
 one sees the folly of anything else. There is a cross 
 in every lot, and 1 know that at home, too, you have 
 your trials and difficulties. Those also require much 
 patience, and perhaps more watchfulness, for in pros- 
 perity one is, perhaps, less, likely to look upon that 
 as the will of God. Nevertheless, it is so, for He 
 means us to be happy, and He created us, not only 
 for His own enjoj-ment, but for ours also."
 
 THE KING'S PALACE BURNT. 275 
 
 " Uganda, Tth April, 1886. 
 
 " We are, thank God ! still here, alive, and fairly 
 well, and in peace. But still we are far from at rest. 
 The king continues to regard us as before, unfavour- 
 ably, i.e., apparently so, judging by his words and 
 actions. Our work continues, but more clandestine 
 than otherwise. Still we are able to carry on print- 
 ing, which distributes truth and knowledge without 
 the necessity of collecting numbers, and so raising 
 suspicion. Thus the stone rolls noiselessly. 
 
 " A few weeks ago Mwanga's palace was burnt to 
 the ground. Some of his headmen were so severely 
 burnt that they have died since ; others are recover- 
 ing. Some have laid suspicion on us ; but we have 
 heard no more of that, as we gave his majesty a good 
 present just after, to make up somewhat for his losses. 
 Next day, lightning struck a house close by where he 
 had put up. Poor wretch, he was terrified out of his 
 wits, and made off to his new temporary capital, on the 
 creek, some eight miles off. There he is now. Ashe 
 and 1 have been there several times to see him. His 
 own fire originated in his gunpowder store. One 
 hundred kegs blew up, and played fearful havoc. 
 Just before then, rumours had come of white men 
 being in the north-east, come to look for the bishop. 
 The king thought they had stormed his seat, and fled, 
 with one or two lads, sword in hand ! 
 
 "The army is now returning from Bunyoro. The 
 commander-in-chief is killed, and many others. Some 
 say that Kabarega is also dead ; others say, however,
 
 276 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 that he escaped wounded. We can learn nothin<j 
 definite of Dr. Junker. It is rumoured he fell in the 
 fight, but I believe he was taken back alive by Kaba- 
 rega. \Vc shall hear more definitely by-and-by," 
 
 To Ills Father : — 
 
 " Uganda, 2W1 Jtine, 1886. 
 "Again I have sorrowful news to tell, even more 
 distressing than before. Only a month ago a violent 
 persecution against the Christians broke out, and 
 they have been murdered right and left. The origin 
 was an act of splendid disobedience and brave re- 
 sistance to this negro Nero's orders to a page of his, 
 who absolutely refused to be made the victim of an 
 unmentionable abomination. The lad was a Chris- 
 tian, and was threatened with instant death, but was 
 ultimately only cruelly beaten. But there the matter 
 did not end. 'These Christians are disobedient, and 
 learn rebellion from the white man. I shall kill 
 them all.' So said our Nero. At once the order 
 Vv'as given for their arrest. Those in the palace 
 grounds, and the more conspicuous and well-known 
 Christians, were first seized. About a dozen w^ere 
 hacked to pieces the first day, and their members left 
 lying in all directions on the road. Bands were sent 
 out to catch and kill. Over thirty were thus slain. 
 As in the case of the murder of Bishop Hannington, 
 we were helpless, and expected every moment our 
 own arrest. We cannot yet realize the awful loss we 
 have sustained. Nearly all our best friends arrested
 
 DEMANDS LIBERTY FOR WORSHIP. zTi 
 
 suddenly, and murdered almost before our very eyes. 
 For the scattered remnant we must appeal to Chris- 
 tian England, and for all who may yet embrace our 
 faith. We ourselves, too, are in a position of the 
 gravest danger. This tyrant is rash and vain, and 
 tancies that there is no power in the world that can 
 call his vilest and most cruel acts in question. If 
 this part of the world is longer neglected, and if 
 effective measures are not at once taken to bring 
 this bloodshed to an end, the indelible disgrace of 
 abandoning our fellow-Christians to torture and the 
 stake will remain a blot on every land of freedom. 
 We believe it to be necessary that we be enabled 
 to leave this country — our withdrawal will only be 
 temporary — until this eccentric potentate be brought 
 to reason. He has given out that he means to hold 
 us as hostages, fearing that the white men will be 
 upon him for the murder of the bishop with his fifty 
 porters, besides all his other cruelties. It is not now 
 the cry of the heathen for the gospel, but the eloquent, 
 unremitting appeal of severed limbs and writhing 
 bodies for help and deliverance from their persecu- 
 tors. There is a greater bondage than slavery to be 
 grappled with here, and it must be grappled with. 
 If no single power will interfere to demand freedom 
 of faith for East Africa, let the concert of Europe 
 take up the subject, and proclaim an East African 
 Free State, as has been done on the Congo. If on 
 the Congo, why not on the Nile.''"
 
 27S FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 "Uganda, wtJiJttly, iS86. 
 
 "We liave had the Russian traveller, Dr. Junker, 
 as our guest for a month or more. He hopes to leave 
 for Msalala in a few days by our boat, and this letter 
 will go then. I shall be very glad to find him get 
 away in peace and safety, as he has no concern with 
 our difficulties here, and we should be sorry indeed to 
 see him involved in them. He is already deeply dis- 
 gusted with this country. When he gets (D.V.) to 
 Europe, he will enlighten the minds of people upon 
 the state of this neighbourhood and the southern part 
 of the Soudan. I only wish that I could get away as 
 easily as Dr. Junker. As soon as he is gone, Mr. Ashe 
 and I hope to make a strong effort to get permission 
 for both of us to leave. We little expect to be able 
 to accomplish that. Possibly large gifts to the king, 
 of all our most valuable goods will help, by God's 
 blessing. Under present circumstances it is quite 
 impossible for us to effect any satisfactory arrange- 
 ment for the prosecution of our work, while we 
 remain so completely within the grasp of this blood- 
 thirsty tyrant. 
 
 " I am sending, by Dr. Junker's care, my journals 
 of meteorological observations, taken here for the last 
 eight years. I should have liked to first tabulate and 
 reduce these into some intelligible shape, but that 
 work must now be done by others, probably by Mr. 
 Ravenstein, of the R.G.S. I do not know when so 
 good an opportunity will occur again of forwarding' 
 these tables ; besides, they are in danger of being lost
 
 A SECOND MADAGASCAR. 279 
 
 for ever, if they remain much loiv^erhere. I am send- 
 ing also a box of my old note-books, etc., to lie at 
 Msalala, as here we feel nothing is safe. It may 
 be that we shall be compelled to try to escape some 
 night, in which case, even should we succeed, we 
 should have to leave everything. 
 
 "There is one method by which we might with 
 comparative case get away ; viz., to first request 
 some of our brethren to take our place. That would 
 satisfy the cupidity of the king, because every arrival 
 of Europeans means more presents to him. But we 
 should only be seducing men into the same trap in 
 which we ourselves are stuck, and that would be un- 
 fair, however ready some of our brethren, not know- 
 ing so well as we the circumstances, might be to come 
 to relieve us. 
 
 " The letters we sent oft" on 29th of last month will 
 probably have reached England before now. If so, 
 you know all about the bloody persecution which 
 has taken place here. You hope that this land may 
 become a second Madagascar. It has become so, 
 already, but not in the sense you mean. I read only 
 }'esterday a statement by one of our former secre- 
 taries, in which he speaks of Madagascar being an 
 instance of ' a nation being born in a day ' ! How- 
 ever misunderstood on all occasions that isolated text 
 may be, the case of Madagascar was very different 
 from popular notions. There, some fifty or sixty 
 years elapsed, if I remember rightly, before the great 
 change for good took place. The first missionaries
 
 28o ]FIERY TRJALii. 
 
 died on the coast. Others followed and had many 
 ups and downs, and many years of hard labour. 
 Then there arose a new queen, who knew not Jesus, 
 and the missionaries had to flee ; and thousands of 
 native Christians were cruelly put to death, not a 
 single hand being given to help by any of our great 
 Christian nations. That was a rare exemplification 
 of the communion of saints, and the determination 
 of the strong to help the weak ! ^ 
 
 " Christian Europe left the Christians in Mada- 
 gascar for some thirty years to be massacred and 
 hunted to death for the faith. But their Lord did not 
 leave them. Bulgarian atrocities can rouse the in- 
 dignation of Europe, but not so the massacre and 
 torture of Christians in Madagascar or Uganda. 
 None would be God's instruments to intervene to aid 
 the helpless sufferers, so God interposed directly and 
 removed the tyrant. It was only after a new ruler 
 came to the throne, who favoured Christianity, that 
 tardy England at length, ivJien no more necessary, 
 made a treaty with the Hovas, guaranteeing religious 
 freedom ! But help in need is help indeed. Can 
 nothing be done to waken our Christian land from its 
 lethargy regarding the sufferings and dreadful wrongs 
 endured by our helpless fellow-Christians in Africa? 
 Will you all allow them to continue to be murdered 
 
 ' His recital of events in Madagascar is not quite accurate, 
 and is evidently written from memory ; but the general etTect 
 is correct
 
 THE SOUDAN AGAIN. 281 
 
 and tortured, and hunted for their lives for decades of 
 years, merely because they are far away, and it will 
 cost a little diplomacy, and a little effort, and perhaps 
 a little expense, to secure to them the bare rights due 
 to humanity ? I can scarcely believe it. It is not 
 exactly like French legions backing up French mis- 
 sionaries. France shows too little friendliness to the 
 cause of religion at home, to have the imputation con- 
 tinually cast on her of aiding them at such expense 
 abroad. 
 
 " It has not been to aid Romish missions that France 
 even as one of her excuses, has determined to proclaim 
 a protectorate over Madagascar. There ivas a time 
 when Romish converts were in the same straits as 
 our own in that island, but France did not interfere 
 to my knowledge. Nor have I heard that of late- 
 years they have enjoyed less freedom than the Protes- 
 tants. It is doubtless the case that Romish mission- 
 aries have penetrated into many parts of the world 
 where Protestants have not tried to send a single 
 mission ; and if afterwards political difficulties arose 
 and fighting had to be done, post did not necessarily 
 become propter. We must be fair in our representa- 
 tions regarding France, as we hope to be fairly repre- 
 sented ourselves. 
 
 " I have read a good deal in the newspapers about 
 the Soudan. It is heartbreaking to think what fear- 
 ful ignorance prevails in England as to that region, 
 and what reckless statements are made and opinions 
 entertained in consequence. I always excuse the
 
 282 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 Utter misconception on the part of this king and his 
 chiefs as to Europe and its power, when I reflect how 
 equally great is the misconception in England as to 
 matters in Central Africa. 
 
 " You say in your last letter, ' Society throughout 
 the whole country is passing through a real change. 
 Pulpit and pew alike are cherishing a loftier and truer 
 view of Christ's relations to men than was held thirty 
 years ago. As was said the other day by Dr. Green, 
 " The Cross had been allowed to shadow the Throne." 
 The doctrine of the Atonement has been preached to 
 the neglect of the rule and reign of Christ amongst 
 men in all theh' relations. Religion was wont to be 
 set forth as pertaining almost exclusively to the soul's 
 salvation and a future heaven. Now we see that 
 Christ should rule Individual, Social, and National 
 life. He is the Lord, and the more we recognise this 
 fact, and yield our hearts to it in all things, the more 
 truly will His kingdom come, and His will be done 
 on earth. And that constitutes a grand argument for 
 missions. One cannot measure the wondrous change 
 that may come to heathen peoples by knowing and ■ 
 following the Lord Jesus. The new life in Jesus 
 Christ will make all things new.' 
 
 "This being so, we cannot fail to see that England 
 can only fulfil her destiny as a Christian nation by 
 occupying herself continually, at home and abroad, in 
 furthering the cause of Clirist. As private individuals, 
 we are to spread the truth and relieve the distressed, 
 and by our lives adorn the doctrine of holiness. As
 
 ASA'S THE AID OF DIPLOMACY. 283 
 
 a nation, we are to bring the weight of our influence 
 and power to bear, on a larger scale, on the evils 
 existing among our masses at home and the dark 
 places of the earth abroad. These are beyond the 
 power of private effort. 
 
 " Seeing that all, or almost all, our best people have 
 been now put to death, it is altogether a marvel that 
 we ourselves have been spared. It may be that our 
 remaining time be spent in lifting up our voice to 
 make known the wrongs and cruelties practised here 
 on the children of God, so that a helping hand be 
 stretched out to them, by those who have been un- 
 wittingly the means of causing their dreadful deaths, 
 and whose ears these cries of woe would not other- 
 wise have been able to reach. And if no imploring 
 entreaties of ours will avail to move them further than 
 a passing sigh, or it may be even an earnest prayer, 
 surely the tale of writhing agonies and tortured 
 bodies, severed limbs and mutilated frames, will do 
 something to stir our Christian nation to the depths, 
 and cause them to resolve that this blot on God's 
 universe shall for ever cease to exist, 
 
 " We wish for no retaliation, but we demand for 
 ourselves and our native brethren the riglit to worship 
 God without being forced to face the fire for our faith. 
 If Mwanga is an omnipotent monarch, as he believes 
 he is, let us leave him alone, and leave his subjects 
 alone ' to stew in their own grease,' as a correspon- 
 dent of the Times proposes should be done with the 
 victims of the Mahdi and Dervish oppression. But
 
 284 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 if the power still remains in Christianity, which en- 
 abled it to overthrow the mighty Roman Empire 
 and its terrible corruption, can we believe that the 
 like cannot be done again ? It is not enough to say 
 that what the Baganda Christians are suffering to- 
 day is no more than our forefathers had to endure. 
 Because there was no Christian power in Nero's days 
 that could demand of that mad tyrant toleration for 
 Christianity — and accordingly he could slaughter his 
 subjects when and how he liked — it does not follow 
 that to-day petty kings in Africa may do likewise 
 without being called in question. Because religious 
 liberty was gained in England at the price of the 
 blood of our forefathers, it does not therefore follow 
 that in every land men must wade through fire and 
 blood to be likewise free to worship God. It took us 
 centuries to know how to make a steam engine or 
 a cotton mule. Must therefore every nation grope 
 through the pains of finding its own Watt, its Ark- 
 wright, its Crompton, before it can produce a yard of 
 calico } Yet, practically, that is what many of our 
 friends believe is the right course in the interests of 
 religious freedom abroad. 
 
 " The Romish Vicar Apostolic of the Nyanza ar- 
 rived in Uganda a month ago. We asked him and 
 his brethren to aid us in trying to save the lives of 
 some forty Christians who had just been arrested, 
 and who were sentenced to death for their faith. 
 We hoped that by our making a joint petition to 
 the king, he would less likely refuse to listen to our
 
 THE PRIESTS DECLINE TO HELP. 285 
 
 appeal. Bui" the Romish Bishop refused to inter- 
 fere, piously adding, ' Di.'iictnr Oiniiipotens adjuvare 
 crcdentes et spcrantes in Eiiui,' — in other words, ' Let 
 God help them if He will ; we cannot ! ' 
 
 "Can I believe that a similar reply will be all that 
 will come from our Christian friends in England 
 when we now appeal to them ? Surely not. Now is 
 the time, not for our friends merely to congratulate 
 themselves (on hearing of Christians being murdered 
 here by the score) on the freedom and comfort which 
 they enjoy in England, but for them to set to work 
 in real earnest, and with the determination not to rest 
 until in every land of tj^ranny similar freedom be 
 secured to their brethren, even although these be only 
 blacks. Africa may be for the Africans, but Africa 
 will never be saved only bj the Africans. We must 
 stand with them and for them in the fight with the 
 powers of darkness, which are too many for them. 
 England saw this in the case of the slave-trade, and 
 determined that i^ should be abolished, although her 
 efforts have hitherto been only a sort of nibbling at 
 the corners ; for it is not on the coast where the 
 slavery can be grappled with, but in the far interior. 
 We had the cruisers, and they must be somewhere at 
 any rate, and they might as well lie off Sierra Leone 
 or Zanzibar as anywhere else. But that sort of work 
 effects just about as little as it costs. A few days* 
 travel inland would soon show you how little good is 
 done by all our ships on the coast. But the British 
 public — slow to take in the claims upon them- -are
 
 2S6 FTERY TRIALS. 
 
 easily satisfied with a story of gunboats. Slavery and 
 the slave trade exist just as before. But there is a 
 more dire bondage yet to be dealt with. The slavery 
 of sin and Satan, you will say. Yes, that is spiritual, 
 and must be met with spiritual weapons. But what 
 of this slavery of souls, where such men as Mwanga 
 will insist on owning, not only the bodies, but also 
 the souls of his subjects ? Will spiritual weapons 
 avail with him ? Are they the means employed in 
 England against robbers and murderers .-' God works 
 by means, and among men His means are men. To 
 make use of means does not necessarily mean to rely 
 on the means, though some cry out about ' an arm of 
 flesh,' while they themselves are every day of their 
 lives enjoying untold benefits from the presence of 
 that arm. 
 
 " Labour without prayer is vain, but prayer without 
 labour is sloth. God alone gave the Israelites the 
 victory in the conquest of Canaan, nevertheless they 
 had to fight. The principle still remains the same ; 
 but the end to be gained is different, and the weapons 
 are different also. The more readily we fall in with 
 the Divine order, the more easily will the desired end 
 be attained. 
 
 " Look, for instance, at the Congo. There a mighty 
 area, reaching far into the very heart of the conti- 
 nent, has attracted the attention of statesmen, and 
 they have proclaimed it a Free State, with incal- 
 culable benefit to Christian missions for all time to 
 come. Would it have been better to leave missions
 
 rHE CONGO FREE STATE. 287 
 
 to struggle unaided with all the cannibals of the 
 Congo ? Would it be better to leave them to be 
 murdered like Smith and O'Neill and Bishop 
 Hannington, and have all their porters murdered 
 too ? or would it be better to have them left to 
 gather converts round them only that these be 
 massacred by their own rulers, as is the case here ? 
 But who took up the Congo question, and effected 
 the establishment of the Free State ? The Christians 
 of a missionary spirit, who were eager to have all 
 that region thrown open to the messengers of the 
 gospel ? The zeal came, I fear, from men with more 
 sordid aims in view. The aggrandizing claims of 
 France and Portugal had more to do with the present 
 solution than all the cries of Christians in England 
 or throughout the world. Thus we have all been put 
 to everlasting shame before the world, a shame which 
 we do not lessen by now hastening to take advan- 
 tage of what others have secured for their own ends. 
 But the Congo basin does not exhaust Africa. This 
 part of the continent remains to be dealt with, s;id 
 the territory is no less important than any part of 
 West Africa. It is the way in which the Papists 
 work, to take every advantage of the liberty given 
 in Protestant countries for propagating their Poper)-, 
 while in purely Popish lands they will not grant 
 similar privileges to Protestants. Shall we wait for 
 men of the world to squabble about East Africa, each 
 party determined to have the monopoly of its^com- 
 merce, while we look to enjoy the benefit of some
 
 288 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 compromise they may effect, whereby our ends will 
 likewise be served ? Bismarck and Burgash may 
 never come to terms, for all that we know ; and what 
 about Mvvanga and the Mahdi ? I saw the other day 
 a copy of a proclamation issued by the Mahdi to all 
 Arabs, in which he praises Allah for having given 
 into his hands the ' vile Christian — Gordon — the 
 enemy of God', and thereon he calls on all his 
 followers ' to slay the Turks and sell the Blacks.' He 
 slew General Gordon as the chief of the Turks, and 
 stuck up the English hero's head to be ignominiously 
 handled by the Arab rabble, whereupon the English 
 army ran away home, forgetting that they came to 
 do what Gordon came to do, viz., rescue the garri- 
 sons of the Soudan. Mark the logic. Because the 
 general could not do that, without an army, there- 
 fore the army could not do it either, although it 
 had another general ! But enough about Khartoum. 
 Let us leave it and Darfur to the Dervishes. Some 
 one has said that it would be ' a fatal policy to let 
 any civilized power step in there, as that might any 
 day turn Egypt into either a desert or a swamp,' and 
 the writer of those words, who has lived '' tiventy years 
 in Egyptl might lose some money ! I wonder how 
 the ' civilized power ' was to so manipulate with the 
 Nile as to effect either of these ends. How could 
 they increase the water or diminish it? Perhaps they 
 might drink it ! Well, let that hnnianaster become 
 one of the poor natives of the neighbourhood of 
 Khartoum, and try the bliss of Dervish dominance,
 
 *'A^EGROES" Of THE SOUDAX. 2S9 
 
 and we shall see how he will like his own humani- 
 tarian recipe, ' to be left to stew in his own grease.' 
 I shall take up the question of the Negro portion of 
 the Soudan, as being nearest to us here. 
 
 " The notion seems to prevail in England that the 
 Soudan is all a land of desert, inhabited by black 
 Arabs, who live round deeply dug wells. It may be 
 so in the neighbourhood of Khartoum, but only one 
 half (the northern) is desert or Arabic. From the 
 10° lat. all the way south to the Equator, or let me 
 say from the Sobat and Bahr Ghazal to the Albert 
 Lake, there lies the pure Negro region — perhaps the 
 most fertile in all Africa. That region belongs not 
 to the Soudan proper at all, but to the Central Lake 
 district. The people are blacks, negroes, and in no 
 sense Arabs. They know nothing about the Mahdi 
 claims, and are as opposed to the Arabs as they are 
 to the Turks. Roughly speaking, there are two pro- 
 vinces in that whole region, viz., the Bahr Ghazal and 
 the Equatorial provinces. Lupton Bey (an English- 
 man) succeeded Gessi as governor of the Bahr Ghazal 
 province. The Arabs from the North, under Emin 
 Karamallah, came against Lupton, and took him 
 prisoner. I have seen with Dr. Junker a letter from 
 Lupton, written after his capture, in which he says 
 that 'he was about to be taken before the Mahdi, and 
 could not tell whether he would be killed or not.' 
 Nor am I aware that any steps were taken by the 
 English army that came near Khartoum, to ascertain 
 whether Lupton was dead or alive. Emin Kara- 
 
 A. M. M. 19
 
 290 FIERY TRIALS. 
 
 mallali then set out to take the Equatorial province, 
 of which Emin Bey (a German) is the governor. He 
 plundered and ravaged all the land as far as IMakraka 
 country, murdering all the Egyptians he found in the 
 garrisons by the way, and slaying also the native 
 negroes, capturing the women and children. At 
 length, at one station, in Makraka country (I think), 
 the garrison was able to make a successful stand. 
 News then came from the North that the English 
 had come, and Emin Karamallah returned witli his 
 black booty with all speed, as he feared the English 
 would intercept his means of escape by way of Dar- 
 fur westward. He never imagined that he could 
 stand against the English, and hoped to be able to 
 flee with the Arab people, out of Egyptian territory 
 altogether, off to Wadai, or the wa}' of Lake Tchad, 
 But the English, to the amazement of all the Arabs, 
 and the bitter disappointment of all the Europeans 
 and Egyptians, turned tail, no man knows why, and 
 ran home, leaving all the garrisons to the mercy oi 
 the murderers. Now the great provinces of Bahr 
 Ghazal and the Equator are merely a prey to the 
 slave raids of the Dervishes of the Mahdi party. 
 This desertion of the great Negro land, which Gordon 
 governed once in the most humane manner, has been 
 called in England ' the leaving alone a brave people to 
 enjoy their freedom.' Certainly the Dervishes have 
 thus been left alone to devastate the fairest part of 
 Central Africa, — that, too, by the English, who once 
 said they were determined to stop the slave trade there!
 
 EI\rTN BETS TROUBLES. 291 
 
 " Poor Emin Bey ! what could he do ? He with- 
 drew all his garrisons from the Nyam-nyam, Makraka, 
 Kalika, and other provinces, and concentrated liis 
 forces on the Nile, at Lado and other stations, ever 
 expecting a return of Emin Karamallah, who wrote 
 him a letter in the Mahdi's name, summoning him to 
 surrender. Emin, seeing no help came from Khar- 
 toum, and perplexed as to why he got no news from 
 there, not a single steamer having now come to him 
 for three years, sent some officers to Emin Kara- 
 mallah with a letter to say that he would surrender to 
 theMahdi. His messengers were, however, all mur- 
 dered on the way. Lupton is lost. Emin does not 
 know if he is killed or spared. Dr. Junker and Sgr. 
 Cassati had to return from their travels in the West, 
 and they two remained the only Europeans with 
 Emin, except a M. Marquet, from Cyprus. The 
 Makraka people and others implore hiin to reoccupy 
 his former stations among them, as now that the 
 government is gone, absolute internecine war pre- 
 vails among the blacks themselves, while all dread 
 another invasion by the Mahdi's people — the Arabs. 
 Emin has several hundreds of Egyptian soldiers yet 
 in Lado, Dufili, Wadelai, and Eatiko, and has to sup- 
 port them and their families and others, some four 
 thousand people in all. He has several thousand 
 tusks of ivory, but can get nothing to buy with it, 
 and his people are relapsing into savagery for want 
 of clothing. We have tried here, in company with Dr. 
 Junker, to purchase cloth to send him. After buy-
 
 292 FIF.KY TRIALS. 
 
 ing over 2,000 dollars' worth, and getting a caravan 
 ready to start for Wadelai, with Mwanga's permission, 
 a hitch has occurred, and the goods are lying still in 
 our house. Mwanga had to be bribed heavily to give 
 the permisson, and now he refuses for some reason 
 or other. But we believe the things will \-ct be 
 allowed to go. 
 
 " Emin first proposed to bring a^vay all his people, 
 passing this way to Zanzibar, and abandoning entirel\- 
 the last stronghold of civilization, and pledge of future 
 peaceful government in the whole Equatorial pro- 
 vince. We wrote him earnestly begging iiim not to 
 do so, but to hold on, as help will surely come to him 
 in time.^ Before he received our communication, he 
 had to change his purpose, as he found that his peo- 
 ple would not leave that fine country, Emin cannot 
 abandon them to anarchy. What is to be done to 
 help him to re-establish a proper government on the 
 Equator? 
 
 "I fear that only one solution of the difficulty exists. 
 Xot that England establish a protectorate over the 
 Equatorial Soudan, because if we had anotlier Glad- 
 stone government again, he (Gladstone) would throw 
 
 ' It has not been sufficiently realized, that it is to Mr. Mac- 
 kay tliat we owe almost all the intelligence that reached Eng- 
 land regarding Emin Pasha prior to Mr. Stanley's expedition. 
 The first news that Emin was alive, and holding his own, was 
 received by the same mail, in October, 1886, that brought, also 
 from Mr. Mackay, the recovered last diary of Bishop Hanning- 
 ton ; and Emin's letters and the bisliop's diary appeared in The 
 Times on the same day. — C M. Gleaner, May, 1890.
 
 AM EAST AFklCAN FkEE STA TE. 293 
 
 it up, and worse than undo all good done as in 
 the Transvaal neighbourhood ; but that a Free State 
 be inaugurated, comprising all East Africa from 
 Zanzibar to the Bahr Ghazal. That, if properly 
 organized by the powers of Europe, would be a 
 mighty blessing to millions. Native tyrants would 
 be kept in order, and liberty secured for mission 
 work ; while all ruthless slaughter and cruel butchery, 
 as practised here, would be at an end as soon as the 
 new regime came into full play. 
 
 *' Surely such a plan cannot be objected to by those 
 who rave against protectorates for the oppressed be- 
 cause these cost money for some years until the new 
 State gets its resources developed, A Free State 
 with a wise administrator will involve no single Euro- 
 pean country in particular, but will have the eyes of 
 all on its proper government, while the ' British tax- 
 payer' will be saved his pounds and pence also. 
 This last is the chief consideration with many people. 
 Let Africa wallow in blood, only save expense ! 
 
 "But this must go at once. I have not told you a 
 tithe of what I hoped to find time to tell you. Still 
 even this little is unknown to England or its rulers. 
 I therefore hope you will make" public as much of 
 this letter as possible. The press is a powerful factor 
 in keeping alive great questions." 
 
 To HIS Father : — 
 
 "Uganda, 2^th Aug., 1886. 
 "You will be gratified to know that up to this date
 
 294 PIERY TRIALS. 
 
 u'c are still spared, by God's infinite mercy. The 
 prayers of our many friends have been heard on our 
 behalf, and no harm has befallen us, although we 
 have been all along in a position of danger and at 
 times of anxious uncertainty. Not so our poor 
 native brethren. If you received the letter I sent 
 you in the end of June, you will have been deeply 
 grieved to hear of the bloody persecution which 
 broke out that month, wherein very many of our 
 best converts were cruelly put to death — some 
 chopped to pieces on the road, and others burnt 
 alive. It is heartrending to think of, at any rate 
 here. At your distance I expect that comparatively 
 little will be thought of such atrocities, even by good 
 Christian people in England. To us on the spot it 
 is dreadful beyond description. 
 
 " Since June there has been so far a lull, and I do 
 hope a permanent one. Still up to this moment all 
 our people who survive are more or less in hiding, and 
 any of them who venture to come to see us, dare do so 
 only under cover of darkness. It is indeed dark days 
 for Uganda just now; but we know that just as surely 
 as the sun will rise to-morrow, so surely will brighter 
 days dawn on this unhappy country. 
 
 " In the midst of all we have great cause for 
 thankfulness. We were able to get Mr. O' Flaherty 
 away in safety. Then the Russian traveller. Dr. 
 Junker, was allowed to enter the country at our 
 request, and permitted to live with us. He also got 
 away in peace and safety.
 
 A^IIE ALLOWED TO LEAVE. 29^ 
 
 " Recently Aslie and I have been tryinc^ to get per- 
 mission to leave together. This was refused. Next 
 we tried to get leave for one of us to go. The king 
 has again and again absolutely refused permission 
 for me to leave the country, but he has allowed Ashe 
 to go. All the arrangements for his departure are 
 made, and, God willing, he will start from this to- 
 morrow. I sincerely liope that no hitch will occur 
 in his leaving the country in safety. I must be con- 
 tent to remain alone — yet not alone. I can ever be 
 of service to the scattered remnant of the infant 
 Church ; and our God will prepare the way for better 
 thinsrs to come."
 
 COMPANIONS IN TOIL AND TRIBULATION.
 
 "How deep the loss of ]\Iackay, only tho?c who knew him 
 well and saw his work can understand. He was one of those 
 few who look fearlessly forth and seem to see the face of the 
 living God. He never despaired of any person or anything. 
 Quiet he was, and strong, and patient, and resolute, and brave ; 
 one on whom you might depend. He endured fourteen years 
 of Africa, and what that means this book will in some measure 
 help the reader to understand — fourteen years of the contra- 
 diction of men, black and white ; fourteen years of dangers, 
 fevers, sorro7us, cUsappoifiiinents — and in all and through all 
 he was steadfast, unmovable ; a true missionary, always 
 abounding in the work of the Lord." — Preface to second edition 
 of '■'■Txvo Ki/ii^s of Uganda.^''
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 COMPANIONS IN TOIL AND TRIBULA7I0N. 
 
 \ T TE have already referred to Mackay's sorrow on 
 * ^ the death of his friend Dr. John Smith, and 
 it is interesting to note, from time to time, touching 
 allusions not only to those of his brethren who have 
 fallen asleep/ but also to the brave two (Messrs. 
 Gordon and Walker) who now hold the fort in Uganda. 
 But his choice friend, whose image was associated 
 with the most trying hours of his experience, was 
 the Rev. R. P. Ashe, M.A. Of him he writes home, 
 "Ashe is a genuine fellow, a most earnest Christian, 
 and a true missionary. He is my alter ego ; in re- 
 ceiving him, please think you are receiving me''; 
 while Ashe says of him, " Mackay was more to me 
 than any brother ; my best and truest and most 
 loving earthly friend, most tried and most true. I 
 said, and said truly, in my sermon last Sunday, that 
 he was the one person on earth to whom I dared 
 most to open my heart." ^ 
 
 ' We ought especially to notice the loss of his "invaluable 
 assistant," Mr. Tytlierleigh, the news of whose death reached 
 him, when at Uyui, April, 1878. 
 
 ^ " In real friendship there is always the knitting of soul to 
 soul, the exchange of heart for heart. In the classical instance 
 of friendship in the Old Testament, its inception is exquisitely 
 described : ' And it came to pass, when lie had made an end 
 
 299
 
 ioo COMPANIONS IN TOIL AND TRIBULATION. 
 
 As Mr. Ashe was his close associate in the stirring 
 events which so quickly succeeded each other during 
 the next few years, we leave him to describe those of 
 them which he has not already depicted in his in- 
 teresting book, " Two Kings of Uganda." 
 
 " I have an old journal half consumed in a sudden 
 African camp-fire lying open before me, and in spite 
 of its being half illegible it is still precious to me, for 
 within a few pages it contains the record of my last 
 parting with Hannington and my first meeting with 
 Mackay. 
 
 " After bidding Hannington farewell at the south 
 end of the Nyanza in February, 1883, my way lay 
 northward to Uganda, and coasting along the lake 
 in canoes provided by King Mtesa, after a twenty 
 days' journey I reached Entebe, April 28th, 1883. 
 Entebe is a beautiful spot some thirty miles from the 
 royal enclosure, and was at that time the nearest point 
 to the capital which those who came by water were 
 allowed to approach. 
 
 "Just as the sun was sinking on the second day after 
 my arrival, as I sat in a temporary grass-built hut, I 
 heard the crack of two rifles, and running out saw a 
 number of people approaching, a white man walking 
 
 of speaking unto Saul, that the soul of Jonathan was knit with 
 the soul of David, and Jonathan loved him as his own soul.' 
 A union like this is formed not to be broken, and, if it is broken, 
 it can only be with the tearing of the flesh and the loss of much 
 blood." — Imago Chris ti.
 
 ASTIR FIRST MEETS MACK AY. 301 
 
 in front. ' Bwana Mackay amekuja ! ' (' Mr. Mackay 
 has come ! ') shouted my men, and soon I was shaking 
 hands with Mackay himself. It is difficult to give 
 cut-and-dried descriptions of people without de- 
 scending into the female modern novelist style. But 
 bright, frank, fearless blue eyes looked the heart}* 
 welcome spoken by his lips. His face was hand- 
 some, and what was better, good and clever. In 
 stature he was small — the only thing in which he was 
 small. I was soon to put his kindness to a severe 
 test, for I had hardly completed the thirty- mile 
 journey to the mission house at Natete, when I had 
 a bad attack of malarial fever. As I lay and watched 
 this stranger wait on me, and nurse me hour after 
 hour, I wondered at his tenderness ; for I had some- 
 how been led to believe that I should find him per- 
 haps a little hard. How thoughtfully, unselfishly, and 
 thoroughly he did what he undertook ! and this noble 
 sense of duty was the key to his character. 
 
 " Long before I reached Uganda I had heard from 
 the Arabs the fame of Mackay's wonderful house. 
 It was certainly very nice, with its straight lines, 
 panelled doors, square window frames, with wire 
 gauze to take the place of glass ; but most wonderful 
 of all, its second storey reached by a staircase from 
 outside. Mackay characteristically did not live in 
 this house, but in a miserable tumble-down place, 
 which he only consented to rebuild and make 
 habitable when its final collapse appeared immi- 
 nent. The excuse he gave for living there was, that
 
 302 COMPANIONS IN TOIL AND TRIBULATION. 
 
 he liked to be near liis engines and boilers and iron 
 goods ; but when Mr. O'Flaherty went away, he 
 came to his own house. The year 1883 passed 
 quietly away, marked for Mjickay by one important 
 labour successfully accomplished, namely the putting 
 together of the little Eleanor, the boat which 
 Hannington had brought up in pieces from Zanzibar. 
 It proved to be a frightful task, for the planks of 
 which she was built had been left lying out in the 
 sun for months. I had left the boards packed away 
 in my tent in charge of the chief of Msalala ; but he 
 took the tent away with him when he went on a war 
 expedition, and threw the pieces of the boat out into 
 the sun ; the consequence was, that they were most 
 frightfully warped and twisted. Mackay left Uganda 
 in June, and coasting down the lake in canoes joined 
 Gordon and Wise, the two missionaries in whose 
 company I had come to the Nyanza. He found them 
 at Kagei, or rather in a village near at hand. They 
 had been unmercifully robbed by their own Zanzibar 
 porters ; but Mackay's coming changed all that, and 
 inspired them with new hope and heart. Mackay 
 had suffered much from severe fever during this 
 journey down the lake ; but his spirit triumphed over 
 every obstacle, and the pieces of the boat were se- 
 cured and brought to Urima, on the east side of 
 Smith's Sound, where Mackay had determined to 
 build the boat. Then the greatest difficulties arose 
 with the Sultan or chief of that country. 'The 
 white man would interfere with the weather,' and
 
 THE LITTLE SULTAN. 303 
 
 worse than that, 'would bewitch his majesty.' 
 * Would make a picture of him and send it to 
 Europe. Oh no, Mackay must go elsewhere and 
 build his boat.' However, the Sultan's fears were 
 calmed and his feelings soothed by calico and copper 
 wire and red beads, and Mackay began the work. It 
 was my misfortune to spend one night in this place, 
 and the mosquitoes were more numerous, more per- 
 sistent, and apparently more poisonous than in any 
 other spot in which I have been obliged to make a 
 camp. Here then it was that these three brave men 
 sat down to spend two or three months. When Wise, 
 who was a skilled workman, and by no means want- 
 ing in determination, saw the planks, he pronounced 
 the task of making anything of them to be hopeless 
 and impossible. ' Impossible ' was a word Mackay 
 could not brook. Mirabeau's speech to his secretary, 
 ' Ne me dites jamais ce bete de mot,' was one in the 
 spirit of which he always acted. And so the work 
 went on, and grew day by day. The little Sultan 
 waxed woefully impatient, and said ' the boat must 
 be taken away, finished or unfinished, since he could 
 make no rain as long as it was there.' So, as soon 
 as she was caulked, the Elcano)' was launched, and 
 a great deal of work had to be done after she floated. 
 But at last she was finished, and Mackay, in addition 
 to her English name, christened her, in the Luganda 
 language, ' J/zm/z^^^,' meaning peace. In the mean- 
 while Stokes had returned from Zanzibar, bringing 
 necessary supplies, and very soon Mackay was under
 
 304 COMPANIONS IN TOIL AND TRIBULATION. 
 
 weigh, bound for Uganda. He crossed the lake in 
 three or four days, and reached Ntebe on the 21st of 
 December. That was a time of great rejoicing. A 
 goodly band of candidates were awaiting baptism, 
 and Mackay was back again with the beautiful boat 
 and a supply of stores, and best of all our letters from 
 England, and good news of Gordon and Wise from 
 the south of the lake. There did not seem to be a 
 single cloud in our sky, and the recollection of that 
 Christmas Eve is among the brightest I can recall. 
 We three, Mackay, Bwana Filipo as Mr. O'Flaherty 
 was always called, and I, were surrounded by a band 
 of eager learners desiring on the morrow to make their 
 confession of Isa Masiya (Jesus Christ). Right nobly 
 would some of them cling to Him, not reckoning life 
 itself dear in His cause. There was ' Mukasa,' to 
 lay aside that name for ever, and to be known from 
 henceforth as Samweli ; there were young Lugalama 
 and Kakumba, soon to taste a fiery death ; there was 
 Bwana Filipo, a little later to die on board ship in 
 the Red Sea, in sight of Africa, obtaining a better rest 
 than that of an English home. And there also was 
 Mackay, to suffer a few more years of hope deferred, 
 to see a few more of his plans foiled, to find more and 
 more the weakness of men and their insufficiency, to 
 wax mightier by his trust in God, and to climb to a 
 sublime height of clear faith in Him and belief of His 
 final and complete victory. And then, life's lesson 
 learnt, he also to be gently laid to rest for a little 
 while by the sunlit waters of the Nyanza.
 
 AN ENEMY A T THE FEAST. 305 
 
 " That was a happy Christinas. Tuu or three fat 
 cows were killed and a mighty pkun-pudding was 
 made, so that all the guests might taste a httle of 
 the 'pudini' after their hberal helpings of beef But 
 there was a skeleton at the feast, in the shape of 
 Namkade, one of the returned envoys. This was that 
 Namkade to whom, during his English visit, while 
 he was enjoying the hospitality of a generous friend 
 of Africa, a timorous footman ventured to proffer a 
 strawberry ice — a delicacy with which Namkade was 
 not acquainted. Namkade's feelings of sudden an- 
 guish, followed by fiery resentment, may be better 
 imagined than described. The footman made a very 
 speedy exit, and flatly refused to supply Namkade 
 with further refre.shments. It took a good many 
 cups of coffee to mollify the feelings of the insulted 
 stranger. This was the same Namkade who vaunted 
 that his magic horn, a charm which he wore, had 
 brought him safely to Europe and back again. INItesa 
 on his return gave him a small sub-chieftainship. 
 Namkade did not like the white men, and he lost 
 wo opportunity of showing his enmity; and he and 
 another sub-chief named Musisi came to the Christmas 
 dinner, somewhat flown with insolence and banana 
 wine. Bwana Filipo summarily ejected the pair, 
 who went away, vowing vengeance, to report to the 
 authorities that we were making the people our 
 children en masse, and that Filipo was beating the 
 chiefs ! Mtesa, when he heard the story was 
 thoroughly vexed ; and though Bwana Filipo was a 
 
 A. M. :\l. 20
 
 3o6 COMPANIONS IN TOIL AND TRIBULATION. 
 
 privileged person, the king believed the story, and 
 sent down a party of men to search our place for 
 the ' 400 soldiers we had enrolled, and to demolish 
 the forty houses which we had built,' and to burn 
 down our enclosure. They pulled down a few huts 
 where some of our adherents were living : these were 
 the forty houses of the report. This was only a small 
 matter; but though Mackay managed to propitiate 
 Musisi with some gold thread and gilt buttons, 
 Namkade remained our active enemy. The Arabs 
 also made as much capital out of the incident as 
 possible. Mackay soon went south again with the 
 mission boat, and when he returned later in the year, 
 the shadows and suspicions had grown deeper and 
 darker, and our position was daily growing more 
 precarious. In October of this year, 1884, Mtesa 
 died, and in him we lost our friend and protector. 
 Nor was it until we had the opportunity of comparing 
 him with his successor Alwanga, that we knew how 
 to appreciate his kingly qualities. 
 
 "At this juncture Mackay was in great requisition 
 to superintend the making of the king's coffin, which 
 was done to the entire satisfaction of the chiefs, though 
 it was nothing to the vast structure he had previously 
 made for the late Namasole — queen mother. 
 
 " Then came on the question of choosing the new 
 king, and the young, foolish, fickle, and flighty Mwanga 
 was elected to the supreme power. Very soon, egged 
 on by hostile Arabs and his heathen chancellor, or 
 Katikiro, together v/ith the fanatical Mahometan
 
 A TRAP FOR MACK AY. 307 
 
 Mujasi, he showed himself our determined enemy, 
 and his enmity reached a cHmax on the occasion of 
 one of Mackay's intended journeys in the Eleanor 
 to the south of the Nyanza. After giving permission 
 for the boat to go to Msalala, permission ratified by 
 the chief judge, Mujasi was sent with a large armed 
 following to entrap Mackay on his way to the 
 Nyanza. I had accompanied him with my boys 
 Kakumba and Lugalama, and we had several others 
 with us, beside the porters, who were carrying oars, 
 sails, and other things belonging to the boat. Just 
 as we reached the neighbourhood of the port, we were 
 set upon by armed men, who shouted to us to go 
 back. Mackay quietly went and sat down at the side 
 of the path, and I followed his example. We were 
 rudely dragged to our feet, and bidden to march. 
 Mackay said, in answer to their cry, 'Go back,' 'If you 
 wish me to go back, you may carry me.' Three or 
 four of them seized him and bore him along. He 
 had the presence of mind to snatch the caps off the 
 nipples of a couple of guns, which his captors were 
 wildly waving about. This was afterwards magnified 
 into a threat to shoot Mujasi. After a while the 
 soldiers gently set their prisoner' on his feet, and we 
 quietly walked on towards the capital. Mackay sub- 
 sequently had an interview with Mujasi, and at- 
 tempted to bribe him to allow us and our boys to 
 go ; for meanwhile the boys had been seized and 
 bound. Mujasi would not hear of this, and marched 
 us back to within a mile or so of our house, and then
 
 3o8 COMPANIONS IN TOIL AND TRIBULATION. 
 
 bade us go home. We, however, went straight to the 
 chief judge to complain ; but we found that Mujasi 
 was before us, and the result of our pleading was that 
 orders were given that we should be seized the next 
 day and bound, and bundled out of the country. We 
 were then hustled out of the great man's presence, 
 an angry crowd surging about us, quarrelling for our 
 clothes. Stripping deposed chiefs of their clothing 
 was so common a proceeding, that the great chiefs 
 before going to pay their respects to the king, used 
 to provide themselves with the commonest inner 
 garment, that no one would think worth stealing. 
 We were in evil case ; but Mackay never lost his 
 presence of mind for a moment. We kept close to- 
 gether, when suddenly Mukajangwa, the chief exe- 
 cutioner, appeared, and drove the mob right and 
 left, and gave orders that we were to be unmolested. 
 We returned home in peace, but not to peace; for 
 then followed the darkest days I have known. When 
 our boys, innocent of any wrong, were led away by 
 Alujasi and his murderers to the cruel torture of the 
 slow fire for a "i^tw minutes, a falling to dreamless 
 sleep for them, but for me a constant waking vision 
 of 'a lurid light, a trampling throng,' and an over- 
 burdening ' sense of intolerable wrong.' I can 
 hardly find words to say what Mackay was to me 
 then. My one overmastering feeling was, that I 
 would go and shake off the dust from my feet. ' Not 
 so,* said Mackay ; ' there is work for you to do.' 
 And wc set to work printing pra\ ers and hymns and
 
 A/JCA'AVS OPJiVIONS. 309 
 
 reading-sheets. Thousands of sheets were set up and 
 struck off, and soon the storm blew over, and we 
 were so full of work as to have scarcely time for grief, 
 if that had been possible. 
 
 "At this period I was very much with Mackaj', and 
 learned to know many of his opinions. He hated 
 formalism and formulas when these were made to 
 take the place of living religion ; and he looked upon 
 the teachings of the Church of Rome with the 
 deepest abhorrence. Their evasions, windings, mys- 
 teries, and their hocus-pocus mock-miracle-working 
 formula he could not bear, though he saw clearly 
 that formulas expressing great truths, when properly 
 used, might be of value. He used to say that he 
 wished we had some Christian rallying cry to corre- 
 spond to the Arab's formula: 'La illaha ill' Allah 
 Muhammadu rasul Allah ' (' God is God, and Moham- 
 med is His prophet'). Mackay's leanings were poli- 
 tically to the Liberal side, though the theory advo- 
 cated by some persons calling themselves Liberal, 
 that England should confine her interests to her own 
 shores, found no favour in his e3'es. Especially 
 most deeply did he deplore the then Government's 
 Egyptian policy, which resulted in extinguishing in 
 the Soudan the faint light of civilization, which was 
 «5nuffed out with Gordon's death ; indecision, vacil- 
 lation, and half-measures he had no patience with. 
 It grieved him to think so much money and so many 
 lives were lost, and that no result was allowed to 
 accrue from it. Mackay was always friendly to the
 
 3IO COMPANIONS IN TOIL AND TRIBULATION. 
 
 Germans ; and it was only natural that people in our 
 position should hail with joy the advent of any 
 power which should put an end to the frightful state 
 of internecine warfare which is the normal condition 
 of the tribes of the interior. In saying that Mackay 
 admired the Germans for knowing their own minds, 
 I do not mean to say that he preferred them to his 
 :)wn countrymen. He would have been glad to help 
 in any way to see communication opened up for 
 English commerce. He felt that, humanly speaking, 
 the Christians in Uganda could not hold together 
 against the weight of heathenism and Mahometanism 
 without some other power, such as a trading company 
 which would be on the side of order. And it was the 
 knowledge of this feeling which made me so strongly 
 advise him to take service under the Imperial East 
 African Company, and which made him willing at 
 least to consider the question of doing so. I think 
 we both felt that many of the directors of that Com- 
 pany were full of zeal for the extension of Christ's 
 Kingdom, and were obviously not hampered by man}- 
 considerations which a missionary committee is 
 obliged to take into account. Mackay would never 
 on any terms have ceased to be a missionary of Jesus 
 Christ. Nor would those who proposed his taking 
 service with the Imperial East African Company 
 have wished him to be anything other than that. I 
 venture to quote some words of Sir Wm. Mackinnon 
 in reference to him. He writes : ' I cannot tell you 
 how deeply I felt the intelligence of Mackay 's death
 
 DECLINES WORLDLY HONOURS. 311 
 
 He seemed to be a man amonf^ a thousand ; and as 
 far as our short-sightedness could enable one to see, 
 he was just the man to have done excellent work for 
 our country, and the Company in which I take so 
 much interest. His loss is irreparable ; but we hope 
 other instruments will be raised up to do the task 
 which appears to have been allotted to him.' 
 
 " General Gordon, who could see those noble 
 qualities in Mackay which shone so illustriously in 
 himself, some years previously also ofifered him a 
 high position in his service ; but Mackay did not 
 accept it, preferring to do his work for Africa in a 
 position — from a worldly point of view — far more 
 humble and insignificant than that which Gordon 
 could have given him. 
 
 " Mackay was not afraid of the opinion that 
 believers in Jesus should stand by one another, and 
 help one another, to the very utmost of their ability. 
 He saw no reason why a Christian nation, — except 
 its heart be eaten out by selfishness and pride and 
 disbelief in any higher motive for action than self- 
 interest, — should not say to a chief like Mwanga, 
 ' Cease from murdering your Christian subjects, or 
 we will take you away.' I must be careful to say 
 that Mackay did not believe in propagating Chris- 
 tianity by force. Perhaps an apology is due to 
 readers for pointing out, that to believe in the 
 righteousness of giving, if need be, armed assistance 
 to persecuted Christians is not the same as holding 
 it justifiable /'(?/'/7'/'(^?;i7"<?/'r religion by force. God be
 
 312 COMPANIONS IN TOIL AND TRIBULATION. 
 
 tliankcd, that before IMackay passed away the Inter- 
 national Anti-Slavery Conference had been convened 
 at Brussels — sure sign that Europe is waking up to 
 the belief that a common humanity gives the right 
 to those who have the power,— nay more, lays the 
 necessity upon them, — to say to their brothers, ' Ye 
 shall not murder, rob, and enslave, not Christians 
 only, but any brother human being.' 
 
 " Ikit to go back to our life in Uganda. The first 
 storm of persecution had hardly blown over, when 
 new troubles began to threaten and dark clouds to 
 gather thickly. As soon after the death of our boys 
 as we possibly could, we sent letters warning Bishop 
 Hannington of the dangers of the Busoga route, and 
 asking him not to think of venturing into Uganda 
 until we were able to assure him of the feasibility of 
 the step. Those letters never reached him, though 
 they were in Zanzibar only a fortnight after the bishop 
 had started. And so Hannington, knowing nothing 
 of the real state of affairs, and having heard only 
 vague rumours of troubles in Uganda, came on 
 with the chivalrous desire of sharing our dangers and 
 difficulties, and came on to die by the orders of the 
 treacherous tyrant in whose hands we were. I ha\'e 
 elsewhere told the story of that terrible time of trial. 
 Mackay on that occasion proved of what stuff" he 
 was made. Our only strength then was to sit still. 
 Wild passions were aroused, and fear, the wildest of 
 all passions, was most in the ascendant ; yet Mackay 
 did not hesitate a moment, when he heard of the
 
 STEADFAST AND COOL IN DANGER. 313 
 
 bishop's arrest, to go up and beard the tyrant, and 
 to ask for news of the imprisoned man. During 
 those days immediately succeeding Hannington's 
 murder, Mackay showed himself steadfast and im- 
 movable. Though every day we expected to be sum- 
 moned forth to die, he quietly went about his busi- 
 ness, as if nothing were the matter. Though he was 
 most cool in danger, he was absolutely wanting in 
 that spirit which seeks danger and adventure for 
 their own sake. He would have felt this almost child- 
 ish. In this I am not altogether inclined to agree with 
 him, but I am trying to give his opinion, not my 
 own. Mackay was most prudent, and careful to turn 
 to good account the smallest means of making our 
 position better ; but at this time there was simply 
 nothing to be done. Shortly afterwards occurred an 
 incident which both he and I felt, not improbably, 
 would end fatally for us. It must be remembered 
 that, for days, long and earnest councils were held by 
 the kings and chiefs on the question as to whether 
 Mackay, O'Flaherty, and myself should or should not 
 be put to death. Things seemed to be nearing a 
 climax when Nalamansi, one of Mwanga's sisters, a 
 Christian, who has since been burnt to death by King 
 Kalema, sent down word that ' if ever we had need to 
 propitiate the king, it was now." 
 
 "Mackay and I made up as large a present as we 
 could afford, and sent it to the king and chiefs, and 
 the next day came a "volley" of pages from the king, 
 with a peremptory command to Mackay to go at
 
 314 COMPANIONS IN TOIL AND TRIBULATION. 
 
 once to the king's enclosure. What did it mean ? 
 We knelt to pray. Mackay's prayer was very 
 childlike, full of simple trust and supplication. Very 
 humble, very weak, very childlike he was on his 
 knees before God ; very bold, very strong, very 
 manly afterwards, as he bore for nearly three hours 
 the browbeating and bullying of Mwanga and his 
 chiefs. Once only did his Highland fire flash out, 
 when Mwanga said, ' Makay, oli mukusa ! ' (' Mackay, 
 you are a hypocrite ! ') 'I am no hypocrite,' he 
 replied in anger. 'Hush, Mackay!' I said in 
 English; 'do not answer him.' I was indebted 
 to him for one or two similar warnings during the 
 interview ; and the end of what we feared was to be 
 grim tragedy for us, turned out comedy rather, for 
 Mwanga suddenly shouted, 'Give these white men a 
 couple of cows to quiet their minds,' and waved his 
 hand, and the audience and ordeal was ended. 
 
 "Yet another time of trial were we to endure 
 together in Uganda. Just before Christmas, 1886, 
 Mr. O'Flaherty had received permission to leave the 
 country, and then there came a time of quiet. The 
 departure of even one of the white men, who were 
 always objects of suspicion in the country, seemed for 
 a while to lighten the tension of the hostile distrust 
 with which we were viewed ; but this was only the 
 lull before the coming storm. Elsewhere I have told 
 the story of the massacre of the converts. But here 
 let me only note how earnestly Mackay laboured on 
 their behalf. Early and late he toiled at this time to
 
 LOVE FOR BLACK CONVERTS. 
 
 make things for the king, and the only reward he 
 craved was the hves of the imprisoned Christians. 
 Many were nevertheless murdered ; yet I cannot but 
 think Mackay's pleading had some deterrent effect 
 upon the poor fool, Mwanga, who was unconsciously 
 killing those who were most true to him. Mackay's 
 love for his black converts was very touching. How 
 eagerly, eloquently, vehemently he would plead their 
 almost hopeless cause ! Yet, strange to say, he told 
 me that at one time he had an almost uncontrollable 
 aversion to black people; yet a childlike sense of duty 
 had enabled him to overcome his dislike. 
 
 "But if he was thinking so much of his black friends, 
 the claims of white brethren were not forgotten, and 
 he laboured zealously at this time to obtain a safe con- 
 duct through Uganda for Dr. Junker, who was on his 
 way from Emin Pasha.^ He worked hard, too, for 
 
 ^ " Had it not been for the presence of Mr. Mackay, of the 
 C.M.S., who was residing in Uganda, and the selfdenying 
 and noble way in which, knowing Emin's difficulties, he exerted 
 himself on his behalf, in all probability a catastrophe like that 
 which happened at Khartoum would have taken place at 
 Wadelai. jMackay, however, with admirable patience and tact, 
 managed to pacify King Mwanga's fears, got him to permit 
 Junker to enter and pass through Uganda, and also enabled 
 Emin's correspondence and a caravan of goods Junker was able 
 to purchase for Emin from the Arabs at Mwanga's court to 
 pass through the country. Emin's gratitude to Mackay has 
 been often expressed, and he richly deserved it ; for it was a 
 matter of no little danger to obtain these concessions from such 
 a suspicious and bloodthirsty king. It will be seen that, owing 
 to Mackay's aid, Junker was able to proceed on his way to
 
 3i6 COMPANIONS IN TOIL AND TRIBULATION. 
 
 the relief of Emin Pasha, whose gentle character and 
 noble perseverance in his duty he greatly admired. 
 
 "On the 25th of August, 1886, Mackay and I were 
 parted. Mackay believed that if I returned to Eng- 
 land I might be enabled to do good for the cause, 
 and so sadly I bade him farewell. Little could I effect 
 in this way, but a piece of good fortune befell me, 
 which I had little hoped, in the offer of an old friend 
 to the C.M.S. of his services for Africa, so that I was 
 enabled to accompany to the Nyanza next year the 
 Rev. R. H. Walker, a man who, like Mackay himself 
 was wholly given to his work of preaching a living 
 Christ. 
 
 "In August, 1886, Mackay and I parted in Uganda, 
 and in December, 1887, we met again at the south 
 end of the Nyanza. Here I only remained long 
 enough to see the negotiations with King Mwanga 
 completed, to help to lay in their graves Bishop 
 Parker and l^lackburn, and to see Walker start for 
 Uganda. For the next three months I was alone with 
 Mackay. I had notified six months previously to 
 Bishop Parker my intention of leaving the Mission, so 
 that the time for another and the last parting with 
 Mackay was drawing on. 
 
 Zanzil:)ar. Arriving there, he lost no time in publishing to the 
 world Einin's position and Emin's need.'" —G}-aphic " Special 
 Number," April 30th, 1890. 
 
 Owing to Emin Pasha's communications, H.H. the Khedive 
 of Egypt conferred on IMackay the Order of the Osmanieh 
 of the 4th class.
 
 A GREAT MISSIONARY. 317 
 
 " In these last days I learned to know him as I had 
 never known him before. And I learned, from his 
 life and from his patient love, to understand how that 
 it is possible for a devoted man to attain to a 
 marvellous height of Christliness, if I may use such 
 a word. 
 
 " In concluding this faint attempt at giving any 
 adequate idea of my impression of him, let me add 
 that Mackay was a humble, pure, noble-hearted man. 
 in a word — a great missionary. — R. P. A."
 
 ALONE.
 
 " I have requested Casati to try and make friends with the 
 chief of the Waganda, who are stationed in Magangesi (?) ; he is 
 an old scholar of Mr. Mackay's, and perhaps he will be able to 
 be of service to us. You, however, well know the strict disci- 
 pline which is maintained in the Waganda army, and therefore 
 my hopes are not very great. 1 am now trying to prevail upon 
 Mohammed Biri, the leader of the caravan, to take these letters 
 to Mr. Mackay, and I hope he will get them there safely ; but 1 
 am not sure that Mr. Mackay will be in Uganda, for in his last 
 letter he says that he will probably be compelled to leave that 
 country for a time, as the Arabs are again using all their in- 
 fluence with the king to harm the Mission. I hope, indeed, in 
 the interests of civilization, which interests Mr. Mackay has 
 served with such splendid success, that his fears may not prove 
 true, but that he may be permitted for a long time to come to 
 continue the woik, to the blessing of those to whom he is both 
 teacher and friend. Should he leave Uganda, it will be an 
 immense loss for us, especially for me ; this I wish especially to 
 put on record. Since the very first lines I wrote to Mr. Mackay 
 have been in his possession, up to the present time, he has 
 acted for us in the most generous and unselfish manner possible ; 
 indeed, we shall never be in a position to thank him sufficiently 
 for all he has accomplished ; he it is who has aided us, notwith- 
 standing that he has had personally to suffer for it, and he has 
 been both a true friend and adviser to me. When I have been 
 extremely cast down, his letters have aided and upheld me, and 
 given me fresh courage to new work. He has divided what 
 he had with me, and has robbed himself to overload me with 
 presents. ]\Iay God, who protects us all, richly reward him ; it 
 is perfectly out of mv power to thank him sufficiently." — Einiii 
 Pasha.
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 ALOiXE. 
 
 AFTER Mr. Ashe left Uganda, Maclcay was alone 
 for eleven months. Through the hostility of 
 the Arabs, Mwanga was induced to ask IMackay also 
 to leave the country, on the understanding that the 
 Rev. E. C. Gordon should take his place. The king 
 also told Mackay that " if he went only to the south 
 end of the lake, he was to return in three months; but 
 that if he went on to the coast, he would expect him 
 back in a year." 
 
 Mr. Gordon bravely held the fort, amid much 
 danger for some months, when he was joined by the 
 Rev. R. H. Walker, to whom the king accorded a 
 brilliant reception. 
 
 Mr. Walker was greatly encouraged by the work 
 which his predecessors had done, and had many 
 mere baptisms. He writes : — 
 
 "The native Christians came to welcome me, and 
 on the Sunday 150 or 200 were present at the morn- 
 ing service, and nearly as many at the service at 
 2 p.m. It was a most refreshing and gladdening 
 siglit ; it cheered me much. Really Ashe, Mackay, 
 and the others have done, by the grace of God, a 
 
 A. M. M. 321 2 1
 
 322 ALONE. 
 
 glorious work here ; it is a great privilege, but great 
 responsibilit}', to follow up such good worlc. 
 
 " It Avould seem a terrible disaster if anything 
 happened to compel this Mission to be given up. 
 The people seem so much in earnest, and so very 
 anxious to learn to read. Gordon sells the books at 
 a very good price, and sells them very quickly. To- 
 day some of the principal ladies from the court came 
 and bought books and reading-sheets of letters and 
 syllables. All the people speak most kindly of 
 Ashe and IMackay. Of course I cannot understand a 
 word of what they say, but Gordon kindly tells me 
 what is being said. 
 
 " If I can only get hold of this language, and the 
 king remains as well disposed to us as he seems to be 
 at present, we really ought, by the grace of God, to 
 dp a great work here; our predecessors have laid such 
 a good foundation." 
 
 "Uganda, \2tJ1 Sept., 18S6. 
 'T was in full hopes of coming myself with ]\Ir. Ashe, 
 but God has ordered it otherwise. As I mentioned 
 before, we considered it the best thing we could do 
 for the INIissioUj to withdraw for a time, so as to 
 remove the suspicions against us and against those 
 who accept our teaching, i.e., those who are left alive 
 of them. On the occasion of Dr. Junker's depar- 
 ture, on July 14th, I wrote you a long letter on this 
 subject. The lieartrcnding griefs we came through 
 just before then can never be effaced from our minds
 
 IM SUSPENSE. 
 
 I only would like to cherish the belief that they will 
 never occur again. But although there have not 
 of late been any fresh arrests of our people, yet 
 those in bonds are not liberated, nor has any pardon 
 been extended to the great number who are still in 
 hiding — many of them condemned to death. IIov/ 
 earnest our prayers must be that it will please the 
 Lord to turn all this sorrow into joy. Doubtless the 
 day will come when it will be so, and ' the ransomed 
 of the Lord shall return, and come with singing unto 
 Zion ; and sorrow and sighing shall flee away,' We 
 know that the triumph of evil is only temporary, and 
 that its defeat will be of eternal duration. Your 
 letters of January and March were full of consolation 
 to both Mr. Ashe and myself. You write in the 
 expectation of seeing me soon. But we must wait a 
 little longer. My enforced stay may be for the best. 
 Now that one European after another has left, sus- 
 picion against us ought to cool down by God's grace. 
 More men have been appointed for this post, one of 
 whom (Dr. Pruen) you have seen. But the recent 
 bloody persecution has brought in a new element, not 
 calculated upon by our committee when they deter- 
 mined upon reinforcing the staff. I am rejoiced to 
 hear of every fresh hand put to the plough, and there 
 is plenty for them to do meantime at the other 
 stations, even although it is not advisable for them 
 to come just yet into Uganda. There are most 
 grave considerations connected with Mission work 
 in such a country as this. Unquestionabl}-, our last
 
 324 ALONE. 
 
 desire would be to see steps taken to avenge the 
 murder of either the bishop or our native brethren. 
 But we shall err greatly if we, by sloth and indiffer- 
 ence, allow such precious seed to fall on the ground 
 in vain. It seems to me that we arc bound to take 
 advantage of these dreadful events, to do our very 
 utmost to prevent their like occurring again. 
 
 " ' I believe in the Communion of Saints.' That 
 cannot mean a very lukewarm interest in their wel- 
 fare. If the body of Christ is one, and one of the 
 members suffer, all suffer. Infantile and poorly edu- 
 cated as the Church in Uganda doubtless is, yet not 
 a few children of God here have shown a strength of 
 faith and resistance unto blood which their fellow- 
 believers in Europe, to-day at least, know little or 
 nothing of. I cannot but think that their heroism 
 deserves the commendation of all true men of God 
 throughout the world. It must be remembered, too, 
 what their fellows are still suffering on account of 
 the faith. All the evils of persecution, so vividly 
 pictured in the end of Hebrews xi., are being bravely, 
 yet meekly, endured to-day. This is the 19th cen- 
 tury, when Christianity is triumphant in Europe and 
 America. It is no more the dark epoch of the centuries 
 r..C., nor is it the time of conflict of the middle ages. 
 Then there was indeed no help for the oppressed 
 and afflicted. There is, however, no reason why our 
 fellow-Christians should be left alone to-day to en- 
 dure the same fiery ordeal which our forefathers had 
 to undergo. The best proof of our gratitude to
 
 MUSI WORK FOR TOLERATION. 325 
 
 them for dying that we might hve, is our stirring 
 ourselves to rescue those who have fallen into the 
 power of the oppressor. 
 
 " ' The hand of the Lord is not shortened that it 
 cannot save,' but we must not expect salvation by 
 miracle while means are available. Is it not for this 
 very end that the Protestant powers have been given 
 the supremacy among the nations, that they may 
 use their power and influence in spreading abroad the 
 knowledge of the truth.' But the command, 'Prepare 
 ye the way of the Lord,' was given before that other, 
 ' Go ye into all the world, and preach the gospel to 
 every creature.' If we are taught any lesson by the 
 sad events which have of late occurred in East Africa, 
 this certainly is one, that we cannot reverse the Divine 
 order. \Vc must condescend to clear the ground 
 and level it, before we can plough and sow. Our 
 Societies are perhaps often too eager to see results, 
 to allow duly for the necessary preliminaries of pre- 
 paring the way. Perhaps you will call me too 
 mechanical in making this suggestion of a parallel. 
 But your commendation of Prof. Drummond's book, 
 which I have got and eagerly read, on your sugges- 
 tion, leads me to think that you will allow a parallel 
 drawn, not from nature, but from the arts — which are 
 only a utilization of nature. In olden times with us, 
 and to this day in uncivilized lands, men counted it 
 enough if they got to their destination anyhozv, and no 
 one thought it the business of a traveller to concern 
 himself about removing the difficulties of the way. His
 
 325 ALONE. 
 
 object was merely to get over tlicm. Hence there 
 were many accidents, and comparatively {(t\M travel- 
 lers. ]iut some wiser minds at length discovered the 
 fact that much less energy was needed to remove, 
 once and for all, the inequalities of the wa}', and then 
 glide along. The impulse given to travel and tran- 
 sit was at once marvellous. What coach company 
 would have believed a hundred years ago, that by 
 to-day, England would spend eight hundred millions 
 in bringing low the hills and filling up the valleys .' 
 But the wisdom of the step is demonstrated beyond 
 all question by the success which has followed. The 
 wheels were set free to run straight on. So it will 
 be in the work of driving the Lord's chariot. The 
 heavy obstacles must be removed. A strong hand 
 must be brought to bear on tyranny and oppression. 
 The word must be given fixe course to run. But 
 just as no railway, however level, will itself propel 
 the train, unless the engine is there, so no charter or 
 treaty of liberty and protection will make a single 
 convert. Nothing short of the power of the Spirit 
 of life can awaken the spiritually dead to life. 
 
 "Possibly you will tell me that my analogy does not 
 hold, for the gospel itself has ever been regarded as 
 the best preparer of its own way. But have not the 
 many disasters which have befallen missionaries and 
 their converts in more fields than this been, in great 
 part, due to this very conception ? You can send 
 locomotive after locomotive at full steam against 
 the side of a liill, but the chief effect will be that
 
 AVOID NEEDLESS SACRIFICE. 3=7 
 
 most of them will get smashed. You doubtless will 
 ill time make an impression on the hill, and fill the 
 valley with broken engines. But all will allow that 
 such a method would be a rather expensive way to 
 go to work. Yet this is very much the method 
 which has been pursued in some Missions, especially 
 those to savage lands. Where colonics existed, or 
 other means of protection were used, we do not read 
 of massacres. Because God has frequently perfected 
 strength in weakness, and granted success in spite of 
 our mistakes, that no man should boast, I do not 
 believe that we arc therefore to conclude that the old 
 leap-in-the-dark method is therefore the one He 
 intended us to pursue. It was Krapf who said, 'The 
 survivors will pass over the slain in the trenches, and 
 carry this African fortress for the Lord.' But I 
 question very much if we arc warranted in making 
 a bridge of dead bodies, when it is possible to over- 
 come the obstacle by other less costly and therefore 
 less romantic means. When Krapf was in East 
 Africa, he found it wisest to keep within the jurisdic- 
 tion of the Sultan of Zanzibar, whom England had 
 caused to grant liberty to Christian teachers ! What 
 was secured in Zanzibar can also be secured in 
 Uganda and East Africa gencrall}', if men only set 
 their minds to it. 
 
 " Perhaps you have noticed the new translation of 
 Haggai ii. 7, ' The thiugs desired of all nations shall 
 come.' That docs not exclude the meaning we 
 associated with the old translation ; but it means
 
 32$ ALOtlE. 
 
 much more. It means peace and liberty, which are 
 most desirable things to God's people in all nations. 
 In England, men are now so accustomed to easy 
 transit that they can scarcely realize what a fix they 
 would be in w'cre there no high roads or railways. 
 So also peace and liberty have become so truly part 
 of their nature that they cannot well imagine a state 
 of things when they dare go to church only under 
 pain of death, or be found with a book or piece of 
 paper under i^ain of being roasted alive. If such 
 penalties were inflicted on one individual, would there 
 not be an outcry.-' But when a whole community is 
 treated so — because at a distance — it is regarded as 
 almost a matter of course. Such, at any rate, was 
 the attitude in the case of the murder of the three 
 Christian lads in January of last year — one of them 
 a member of our own household. There must be 
 a new departure taken as to Mission work. We owe 
 a debt to these people, whom our teaching exposes 
 to such dreadful torments. Vengeance is the Lord's, 
 but prevention is ours. It is not by might, nor by 
 power, but by God's Spirit, that the Church can 
 extend. Yet we all believe in united efforts for its 
 extension. Similarly will the Spirit of God accom- 
 pany and perfect all lawful and peaceful means taken 
 by His servants for strengthening the weak and help- 
 ing the helpless in His Church. 
 
 " Our people venture, a few of them, to come to me 
 every evening after dark. Those most determinedly 
 marked out for execution, and particularly sought
 
 A NEW WAY OF SHOWING AFFECTION. 329 
 
 after, dare only come about midnight. I give them 
 a little instruction and comfort, and we have prayer 
 together. Several of them I cannot refuse to help 
 materially, as they are reduced to beggary, and are 
 in want. In such a time I do aid them ; but 
 ordinarily I have to refuse applications of the kind, 
 as black men are all more prone to beg than to 
 dig. 
 
 " As I have no one to talk to here in my own 
 language, you will pardon the length of this rigma- 
 role on paper. Plenty to do is a good cure for 
 loneliness, and I can always find that. I have not yet 
 got reconciled altogether to my position, but that is 
 only a matter of time. There is no use, at any rate, 
 of fretting and knocking myself against the walls of 
 my cage. I have altogether very much to be grateful 
 for. Meantime, I am exceedingly thankful that 
 O'Flaherty, Junker, and Ashe have all been permitted 
 to escape in peace, and are safe from the clutches 
 of this boy- tyrant. He pretends that his reason for 
 not allowing me to go is his affection for me. Pic 
 should rather put it, 'his affection for himself! But 
 if my stay will help to make him 'come to himself,' 
 and thus save him from absolute perdition, I shall 
 not grieve at his forced detention of me. Unless the 
 Lord has mercy on him, he will, however, come to 
 grief some day. He is at present exasperating his 
 chiefs and people by his liighhandedncss with them 
 They did not pity the despised Christians when 
 these were the victims of cruelty. Ikit when they
 
 330 ALONE. 
 
 themselves arc roundly fined for failing to build 
 enough for him, there is no end of secret grumbling.' 
 
 ''March i^jth, 1887.— I feel sure that Mr. Ashe has 
 already done good on the way, correcting erroneous 
 impressions, and awakening a more intelligent in- 
 terest in the great problems which must be solved 
 before our work can have free scope. It is not 
 enough that we nibble at stray corners of the concrete 
 mass of heathendom and Satan's kingdom. While 
 attacking the molecules here and there, we must try 
 all in our power to, at the same time, dissolve the 
 mass. As Dr. Duff used to put it, we must lay a 
 mine which, when sprung, will blow to atoms the 
 mountain of barbarism and cruel superstition which 
 have prevailed hitherto. Thus we shall prepare the 
 way. 
 
 " I am sorry that you should have suffered such 
 painful anxiety on my account. I am not bound or 
 imprisoned, only detained, i.e., refused permission 
 to leave the country. Possibly I might escape by 
 stealth, at considerable risk, however; but I should 
 only resort to such a method in case of very dire 
 necessity. I do not think it honourable to break 
 parole. I would not thereby increase the good name 
 of the white man for honour or straightforwardness. 
 I do not imply that you suggest, or ever have 
 suggested, that I should holt. But some have implied 
 to me as much. I have no desire to abandon the 
 position, if it can be held at all, or if remaining
 
 niE KIXCS COXSCIENCE ACCUSES IIIM. 331 
 
 would, on the whole, be wiser than going. I do not 
 assert that it really is wiser, but it seems, so far, to me 
 to be so. The fact of the French continuing to hold 
 on is no light argument to be scouted why I should 
 not hold on also. But I do not believe it Avise to 
 bring more men on here meantime, cither to aid me 
 or to relieve me. That method would merely land us 
 in the pitfall of the old suspicions. You truly de- 
 scribe us as being children of storm. Something or 
 other is always up. The very day before the mail 
 arrived, the king's buildings were again almost en- 
 tirely destroyed by fire, and the Katikiro's also. I 
 have heard that the king regards it as a judgment 
 from heaven on him and the Katikiro, for having a 
 few days before secretly murdered another Christian 
 lad. They enticed him back with promises of pro- 
 motion. He was sent down from the king's court to 
 the Katikiro's, taken into inner enclosures there, and 
 never more came out. Some of the servants report 
 that he was strangled and buried in a hole ! The 
 king had also been giving out that he meant to hold 
 another great slaughter of the Christians ; but his 
 mother and the Katikiro and some others advised 
 forbearance, and just now I hear notliing more of the 
 matter, but the ' wild beast' — Nero — may break loose 
 any day. That is, he tuon/d, if he had his way ; but 
 I believe firmly the prayers of our many friends have 
 been heard, and the good Lord restrains the remnant 
 of man's wrath. 
 
 " I hope soon to hear of Stanley being on the road.
 
 332 ALONE. 
 
 I have told no one here except the Frenchmen. I 
 hope his coming will be blessed of God, in helping 
 to establish a less suspicious footing for our Mission 
 with the authorities than the present. Its ulterior 
 results may be far-reaching, and I devoutly hope for 
 the peace of East Africa, and the opening of it up 
 to tiic gospel, 
 
 " I am thankful that at present no interference is 
 made with me in teaching daily in my own house. 
 May we continue to have your earnest prayers that 
 the work may continue to grow. As you say, I 
 should not then mind my quasi-impriscnment." 
 
 " Uganda, June 2nd, 18S9. 
 "You are right in saying that persecution prevents 
 hypocrisy, and tends to show a truer work than court 
 favours would likely do. But at the same time it 
 must be remembered that we ask for no patronage 
 or favour from the authorities. We seek only bare 
 toleration, and that is no more than you expect at 
 home. Nor even can it be said that the fact of the 
 Anglican Church being established by law necessarily 
 renders it a nest of dissemblers. In these days, thank 
 God, there is, even in the Established Church, a large 
 amount of deep and pure spiritualit}'. Doubtless 
 there is also much else, and so also is there in the 
 denominations not so established. History proves 
 that real life is a thing which exists quite independ- 
 ently of State patronage, and is little affected by the 
 presence or absence of that. Yet perpetual murder
 
 EFFECT OF PERSECU7I0N ON THE WEAK. •5^3 
 
 and persecution can not only kill out almost the last 
 spark of vitality — witness the history of Protestantism 
 HI France, after the days of St. Bartholomew — but 
 produces another great evil, which I cannot fail to see 
 here, viz., to cause not a few earnest souls to draw 
 back, and, under fear of death, renounce the faith the}' 
 would willingly follow were the attendant difficulties 
 not so great. We cannot exactly say that such are, 
 at any rate, unworthy of the kingdom of heaven, for 
 even the apostles were sifted as wheat, and all forsook 
 their Lord and fled. Had He not appeared to them 
 again in person, who can tell how many of them 
 would to-day be numbered among the elect? liut 
 while we do not want the favour of the great, we do 
 not want their determined attitude of warlike de- 
 fiance. Even here there seems at times signs of that 
 relaxing. When we pray, ' Thy kingdom come/ we 
 must mean that it will come to the high and the 
 great as well as to the weak and the poor. We must 
 aim at the difficult and, humanly speaking, impossible, 
 as Vv'ell as at what is comparatively easy. Christi- 
 anity is a gospel for the rich and proud as well as 
 for the poor and humble. Men must be saved from 
 themselves and their besetting sins, whatever their 
 status in life. 
 
 " I have been keeping quiet, and simply allowing 
 the Arabs to have full swing in their determination 
 to have me out of the country. By sending off a 
 cargo of goods I can do without, I lead them to 
 believe that I am going myself; but I do not tell
 
 331 ALONE. 
 
 Ihem that I have no such intention, and shall do my 
 utmost to remain if I can. Tliere is no deception in 
 this. I am not so fooh'sh as to tell them my counsel ; 
 and if they draw conclusions of their own, I cannot 
 rush about correcting every false notion. Still, it 
 may be the Lord's will that I leave, either perman- 
 ently or temporarily ; and my only desire is to know 
 and follow His will. To do aught else were, indeed, 
 veritable folly. 
 
 " I have sent to Ventnor a copy of the complete 
 translation of St. Matthew's Gospel. It is being 
 rapidly bought up, although the majority of the 
 Christians are off at the war. I fear the whole 
 edition will soon be out of print. Meantime I have 
 to make up for lost time by issuing new sets of 
 alphabets, reading-sheets, and other things, some 
 time out of print, and constantly demanded ; and 
 when these are finished, I hope (D.V.) to commencq 
 setting up the Gospel of St. John. That rare expo- 
 sition of the mind of Christ must be in the language 
 as soon as possible, so as to convey to the minds of 
 our people the deep spiritual truths entirely omitted 
 by St. Matthew. 
 
 " Of course I have heard nothing yet of Stanley's 
 expedition, nor have I mentioned the subject here 
 to any native or Arab. I have been in fear lest the 
 war party gone against the Bunyoro might meet 
 him ; but the king of that country shows signs of 
 submission, and the Uga,nda army may now merely 
 go raiding south-west.
 
 AGAINST GUy POWDER AND GUNS. 335 
 
 *' To-night I hear that one ot our Christians, a 
 chief named Mutesa (Edward Hutchinson), has been 
 killed in a quarrel between hini and some others 
 (Basalosalo) on the march. 
 
 "Please do your best to aid in getting up a cru- 
 sade against the mad policy of flooding Africa with 
 gunpowder and guns. These things are the curse of 
 East Africa, as gin is of the West Coast." 
 
 The following letter from Bishop Parker to the 
 C.IM.S. explains the course of events : 
 
 " MUHALALA, UGOGO," 
 
 Sept. sth, 1887. 
 
 "On September 29th, 1886, the acting Consul- 
 Gcneral at Zanzibar wrote a letter to Mwanga, and 
 intrusted it to an Arab to deliver and explain to the 
 king. 
 
 "This letter reached Uganda on April 26th, 1887. 
 It was written in Arabic, but an English translation 
 of it was sent to Mackay, 
 
 " Through the enmity of the Arabs towards 
 Europeans, this letter was not translated to the king 
 till May 6th, and was then so mistranslated as to 
 irritate the king and his chiefs, and it was also made 
 to appear that the Consul required IMwanga to drive 
 out the Muzungu from his country. 
 
 "On April 29th the Arabs had called the English 
 missionaries 'landeaters,' and the king swore that he 
 would not tolerate Christianity, and after May 6th it
 
 336 ALONE. 
 
 seemed as if Mackay would have to leave ; so on 
 May 8th he arranged to send 150 loads of iron and 
 other things to Msalala. On May 17th the king 
 declared war against Kabarega, and all Christians 
 were ordered to fight, and were to be burned if they 
 were not successful. The box which arrived, full of 
 New Testaments, was doubly valuable at such a time, 
 and its contents were sold in ten days, and there 
 were loud cries for more. What Mackay had printed 
 of St. Matthew's Gospel was rapidly purchased. 
 Later on, Kabarega sued for peace. Up to the end 
 of May, Mackay was determined to hold on if he 
 could do so on anything like tolerable conditions. 
 
 "On June i8th Mackay writes: ' Mvvanga asked 
 Koluji the other day if I was going or not. Koluji 
 replied that I did not wish to go. Suliman has again 
 been demanding that I be sent away. " What is he 
 doing in the country ? " said the Arab. The king 
 suggests that what detains me is the necessity for my 
 keeping up communication with Emin Pasha, receiv- 
 ing and sending letters, etc, ; but again he avows, ' I 
 will not have his teaching in the country while I live. 
 After I am dead the people may learn to soma'' 
 (read).' 
 
 "On July I2th he writes: 'One day in open 
 haraza, I being absent, Suliman made a fresh de- 
 mand for my dismissal. Thereupon the king sent 
 a message to my house to ask, " When I meant to 
 go ? Are my goods all gone ? I must go to see him 
 before leaving." In the afternoon of next day the
 
 AA'KAiVGES TO LEAVE UGANDA. 337 
 
 Kaiikir'o sent for me, but I was too ill with catarrh 
 to go to see him. I hope to arrange so that they will 
 allow me to leave the Mission premises and goods in 
 charge of some of our coast servants until I return, 
 or some of the brethren come, or else that they will 
 allow me to bring in either Gordon or Hooper before 
 I go m)"self.' 
 
 " After many conversations with various chiefs and 
 with the king, this was at last arranged. 
 
 " Referring to the close of a long discussion in 
 court about his departure, Mackay writes : ' I was 
 worried to exhaustion, and felt that only more 
 trouble would follow if I did not yield. I therefore 
 left my seat again, and, going over to where the 
 Katikiro was sitting, said : "The question is not. Who 
 reported this or that ? but Does the king want me to 
 go or stay? If he wants me to leave, I shall go at 
 once. ... I would leave my house and goods 
 in charge of servants, and taking only my bedding, 
 etc., go at once and have this matter settled and 
 come back again." This was agreed to, the king 
 asking me to leave my fundi, carpenter, and tools, 
 , etc. . . . The whole matter is so mixed with 
 their fear of the consequences, on account of the 
 murder of the bishop, which Mwanga persists in 
 stoutly denying, that no understanding with him will 
 ever be possible until he acknowledges that crime, 
 rnd expresses regret for it. Nor dare I charge him 
 wtlIi murdering the bishop and his men, nor say that 
 , and others reported the fict of the murder. Tliis 
 
 A. M. M. 22
 
 33S ALONE. 
 
 is uppermost in his thoughts, and, because not alluded 
 to by the Consul, leaves King Mwanga a loophole 
 whereby to charge me of accusing him of making me 
 a prisoner.' . . . 
 
 " One hundred and sixty copies of Luganda 
 Matthew complete had been bought up, so that he 
 had not a single copy left. On July 13th the king 
 agreed that Nantinda should go with Mackay as 
 viubaka (messenger), and bring back Gordon, whose 
 name, being familiar to them from Gordon Pasha, 
 they liked. 
 
 " Mackay sent presents to the king, Katikiro, and 
 others, and the Katikiro, Pokino, Koluji, Kago, 
 Mugema, and others sent him parting gifts ; and the 
 king gave him copper and brass spears and a brass 
 ornament for the neck, and sent him a message that 
 if he went only to Msalala he was to return in three 
 months, but that if he was called to the coast he 
 must return very soon. 
 
 "On July 2 1st he locked up the Mission premises, 
 and called on the I'rcnchmen and left the keys with 
 them. He placed four coast men in charge of the 
 house, and went to the port. He found the Eleanor 
 leaking terribly, and was obliged to repair her and 
 patch her before embarking. He arrived at Ukumbi 
 on August 1st, and next day reached the end of the 
 creek, where he met Mr. Gordon, who left by the 
 Eleanor for Uganda on August loth. Mr. Mackay 
 is now waiting at Msalala till I shall get up there. 
 " (Signed) Henry P, Parker, Bishopl'
 
 remedies; suggested.
 
 " A mutual understanding can surely be quietly agreed to be- 
 tween Germany and England. This Lake and the Albert are 
 sure to find themselves, sooner or later, under the beneficent 
 protection of Victoria. Let Von Bismarck extend his operations 
 right across from Dar es Salaam to Unyanyembe and Tangan- 
 yika, and south to Nyassa, if he likes ; England will have enough 
 to do at the sources of the Nile and in the equatorial Soudan." 
 ^A. M. Mackay, Ui^anda, March 8///, 1887. 
 
 '"To be, or not to be ; that is the question.' Is it to be a 
 track to the Lake or not ? I sec in you the only hope for this 
 region, in your getting Sir Wm. ALackinnon to see the matter 
 in its true light. I would not give sixpence for all the Company 
 will do in half a century to come, unless they join the Lake 
 with the coast by a line, let it be at first ever so rough. When 
 they have got that, they will have broken the backbone of 
 native cantankerousness." — Last Icttci- from Mackay /o Dr. 
 //. M. Stanley^ Usaiiibiro, Jan. 5///, 1890.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 AFTER the mutilations and burnings of many of 
 their converts, it was the intention of Mackay 
 and Ashe that the one of them who might be allowed 
 to leave Uganda should proceed with all speed to 
 England, and use all possible means to rouse the 
 C.M.S. Committee and the Churches of England, and 
 through them, the Government, to take some effectual 
 steps to curb the cruel violence of Mwanga, and 
 secure liberty of Christian teaching and worship in 
 the land. They did not desire the violent interven- 
 tion of arms, but they were convinced that means 
 could be used which would sufficiently appeal to the 
 instincts of self-preservation and self-interest whicii 
 Africans in common with all men have, so that 
 Christian teachers should no longer be oppressed 
 and hindered in their work', and- their converts sub- 
 jected to cruel torture and death. 
 
 When Ashe arrived in England, IMackiy wrote to 
 him to brace him up for his work, freely explaining 
 what, in his opinion, needed to be done, and the best 
 way to set about it. 
 
 In these suggested remedies Mackay's large-
 
 342 REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 mindcdncss, and full knowledge of the problem to 
 be solved, anticipated, and doubtless have assisted 
 the arrangements just announced as being agreed to 
 between the Governments of England and Germany, 
 and some of the best provisions recently embodied 
 in the charters of the Imperial British East Africa 
 Company and the South African Company. He 
 saw that the prohibition of arms and ammunition 
 and ardent spirits as articles of common trade and 
 barter to the natives would be not only a great safe- 
 guard of the morals of the natives, but would greatly 
 augment general trade in miscellaneous articles of 
 European manufacture. 
 
 Mackay has been accused of interfering in African 
 politics, and advocating armed intervention in the 
 interests of religion ; but there is no justification for 
 this charge. The force he advocated was the kind of 
 pressure which you can bring to bear upon a man 
 when he sees it more to his interest to be gentle than 
 to be cruel, to be just rather than unjust. He held 
 it to be the duty of our Consuls on the coast to use 
 all the means within their power to secure the per- 
 sonal safety of traders and missionaries, and of the 
 home Government by legislation, backed, if neces- 
 sary, by force, to prevent such trading as directly 
 hindered the work of Christianity and civilization.^ 
 
 ^ "Yet the Heavens forbid 
 That we should call on passion to confront 
 
 The brutal with the brutal and, amid 
 This ripcninc^ world, suggest a lion-hunt
 
 LETTER TO ASJIF.. 313 
 
 He, however, anticipated that Ashe would find 
 great difficulties in his work, and he begins his letter 
 by reminding him of the ultimate Source of strength 
 and success, from whom all inspiration for great 
 enterprises must come. 
 
 "Natete, Uganda, 
 
 ''March S///, 1S87. 
 ". . . Your journey has already been of great 
 value — correcting mistaken notions of men all along 
 the route. I devoutly trust that you will be used of 
 the Master for similar success among the lethargic 
 friends of Africa in Europe. I do not say that zve 
 hope to make an impression on 100,000,000 semi-sclf- 
 satisficd Christians in Europe, but we believe that 
 God will. INIoreover, He will do so by human agenc\', 
 and no other. Such seems to have been His law 
 hitherto, and we have no warmnt to look for a devi- 
 ation from that law to suit our case. As you say 
 truly, ' if we keep humble at His feet,' He will grant 
 us success, in spite of the terrible inertia of heavy 
 masses at home. ' At my first defence no man stood 
 by mc, but all forsook me ; but the Lord stood by 
 
 And lions'-vengeance for the wrongs men did 
 And do now, though the spears are getting bkint. 
 
 We only call, because the sight and proof 
 Of lion-strength hurts nothing ; and to show 
 
 A lion-heart, and measure paw with hoof, 
 Helps something, even, and will instruct a foe 
 
 As well as the onslaught, how to stand aloof." 
 
 — Casa Giiidi Wi/ufozus.
 
 344 REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 me and strengthened me.' Such I expect to hear 
 from you in your first letter from England. But 
 defeat and callousness must not discourage us. 
 Success is certain in the end. The right never did 
 succeed but slowly and by reverses. A true cause 
 must run on, as rivers to the sea. Persevere and 
 agitate. Vital measures have ever been carried by 
 steadiness of purpose, seldom by dash, or by a clever 
 piece of strategy. 
 
 "To relieve men from the wrongs under which 
 they perish, to secure freedom for the oppressed, yet 
 not by Bhit nnd Eisen, is a crux indeed for statesman- 
 ship. We want not so much an ' arm of flesh,' but 
 heads of wisdom, human hearts, and helping hands. 
 There is no need for gunpowder. That remedy is 
 even worse than the disease. 
 
 " The rotten, mortifying state of this continent can- 
 not be healed by more lacerations and wounds. A 
 transfusion of fresh blood, and new life into it, not in 
 miserable driblets as hitherto, but in a full stream, 
 will alone save it from utter corruption. 
 
 " This African problem nuist be solved, and in 
 God's name it shall be solved, for God means it to 
 be solved. It is not for the salce of the {(i\v scattered 
 and despised missionaries that we are determined 
 that this end shall be attained, but for the sake of 
 Africa itself. 
 
 "Brutality and murder must cease in God's uni- 
 verse ; for the universe is God's, not the devil's. It is 
 not enough that ages hence some power step in to
 
 APATHY OF THE PUBLIC. 345 
 
 redress the ever-growing enormity of the crimes 
 committed ; for the countless victims of cruelty that 
 will be too late. Now or never must serious efforts 
 be made for the prcvaitioi, and not the punishment, 
 of offences against the very name of humanity. Tliat 
 may be jeered at by some as attainable only in the 
 millennial reign ; but it is for the millennium that we 
 are striving and working. That is the consummation 
 for the age of Missions. 
 
 " Do not be downhearted if you find apathy on 
 every side, especially on the part of our committee. 
 Great masses are hard to set in motion ? but when 
 once they do begin to move, even the devil will find 
 it hard to stop them. We must have faith that will 
 remove mountains — mountains of prejudice and plati- 
 tudes. But even mountains are made up of molecules, 
 and we have no less than Divine warrant for know- 
 ing that every mountain and hill shall be brought 
 low. 
 
 " It is not a century since even a conclave of clergy 
 said that Missions to heathen were highly preposter- 
 ous, and a gigantic impracticability. Even as late as 
 a dozen years ago, when bidding adieu to some pious 
 Christian friends in Edinburgh, a good lady said lo 
 me that I was embarking on a futile enterprise ; for it 
 God meant the heathen to be converted, He would 
 do it without the help of man ! 
 
 " Yet, strange to say, it is the very men who deride 
 such unbelieving views as now exploded who are pre- 
 pared to meet us with exactly similar truisms when
 
 ;4''> Rri.'irEnrF.s suggested. 
 
 we try to raise our voice against the mightiest wrongs 
 under which the world has ever suffered. 
 
 " Submission to the will of God ? Yes. Submis- 
 sion to the will of man, and to the will of the devil? 
 Yes, 2i\so; but r\ot for ever. Our Saviour presented 
 Himself as a target for all the fiendish darts of His 
 enemies, and of even the great enemy, but only that 
 they might spend their force, and He should triumph. 
 
 " The Son of God was manifested to destroy the 
 works of the devil, not to let them alone in full swing. 
 If we are to follow in His blessed footsteps, we must 
 deny our natural inclination to let things alone to 
 take their course, and must sacrifice ourselves for the 
 well-being of our fellow-men — our ungrateful, unpro- 
 mising, suspicious fellow-men. His love was to the 
 unloving and the unlovable. Ours must be so too. 
 Whatever the end to ourselves may be, we must go 
 dauntlessly to work to save men from the devil and 
 from themselves. We surrender ourselves to the will 
 of God, to do His will, and to take with patience 
 what He sends us when in the doing of it. But we 
 know that His will is salvation, not destruction ; life, 
 not death; peace, not war; joy, not sorrow. But we 
 must wade, I fear, through much sorrow before we 
 come to the joy of seeing an end to the reign of sin 
 and Satan. 
 
 " Much is made, in these days, of Medical Missions. 
 All Our ]\Iission work must be medical in the highest 
 sense. Good Dr. Smith used to remind me that 
 medicine docs not au'e — it only helps nature to effect
 
 .VO TINKERING AND rATCIIlNG. i3,-i 
 
 recover}'. This is wonderfully true, and you may 
 follow the thought into the depths of therapeutics — it 
 holds good throughout. We must follow this analogy 
 in our work for Africa. We cannot cure, its ills by 
 any application, internal or external ; but wc can 
 strive to remove the present dead weight of oppres- 
 sion lying on its heart, and allow pulses of fresh 
 blood to flow through its entire system. 
 
 " This is vcr\' different from the consular methods, 
 which a-re only a species of tinkering and patching. 
 It is no cure for a deep-seated abscess m.erely to plug 
 up the mouth of the wound by which the fetid pus 
 finds an exit. Yet that is exactly what has been the 
 English s\-stem hitherto ! It looks incredible, but it 
 is true. Your letters to the Spectator and to the Anti- 
 Slavery Society most truly expose the prevalent 
 fallacy. The horrid, chronic bloodshed and cruelty, 
 practised in inner Africa, cannot be ended by gun- 
 boats catching prizes on the ocean. What is that 
 but plugging up the aperture that the pus ma)- find 
 no exit, while all the time we are destro)-ing the 
 blood by daily administering a deadly poison — arms 
 and ammunition — support and countenance to Tipu 
 l"ip, Mwanga, and other butchers of our black 
 brothers .'* The rights of poor men, who wish to 
 live lives of peace, are more divine than are the 
 rights of royal robbers and murderers. Why, if a 
 king in Europe were to do once only what is done 
 here daily, he would not long wear either a crown or 
 a head to put it on.
 
 34" REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 "The history of Europe has been a history of 
 struggles to be free from injustice and tyranny. Too 
 frequently hasty and ill-considered measures were 
 adopted, and appeals to arms ended in slaughter. 
 The marvel is that freedom was ever gained any- 
 where, considering the subject state of the oppressed, 
 and the power and influence of the oppressors. Hol- 
 land and Switzerland, Italy and Scotland, and many 
 more downtrodden States, are free to-day, because 
 they refused to accept as impracticable all attempts 
 to gain their freedom. Submission to injustice is 
 right within limits, but it shall not be for ever. My 
 poor forefathers were shot like partridges on the 
 moors of Scotland, because they claimed the right 
 to worship God as their conscience led them ; and, 
 strange to say, it was a rampant ecclesiasticism 
 which prompted the persecution. I do not defend 
 the Covenanters in their methods of resistance. The 
 times were wild, and no hand to help, and much 
 allowance should be made for desperate provocation 
 and bloody treatment. But few men can enter into 
 the heart of a Covenanter unless his blood is in their 
 veins, or unless they themselves are brought face to 
 face with the re-enacted horrors of the past. Our 
 methods to-day are not by brute force or by blood. 
 Negotiation, measures of wisdom and prudence, 
 peaceful enterprise, determined effort, friendly co- 
 operation — such measures as those will help mightily 
 to prepare the way for the entrance of the gospel into 
 the remotest corners of the continent. Now, I guess
 
 A DEFINITE SCHEME. 
 
 you will find it terribly up-hill work to rouse the 
 public from lethargy. Public opinion must wait, 
 unless concentrated and guided by one or two lead- 
 ing minds. You are in the midst of counsellors of 
 wisdom. Try, therefore, to set some definite scheme 
 in black and white, that people may know what they 
 are expected to support, and the chances of success. 
 If you have got the letters I wrote you in September 
 and December, with copy of Emin's letter to me, you 
 will see some hints that may be useful. Let the 
 powers of Europe divide the interior between them, 
 i.e., from the lakes to the coast, not for annexation, 
 but for friendly negotiation with the natives, and 
 peaceful supervision. I mention this on the assump- 
 tion that they -will act together, and already I hear 
 of their parcelling out the coast between them, on 
 the principle of non-interference with each other. 
 The work will prove vastly easier than the timorous 
 anticipate. 
 
 " The great hold that foreigners have inland is the 
 supply matter. Where such potentates as this one 
 prove intractable, you need no force against him — 
 simply stop supply of arms and ammunition, and in 
 more severe cases, calico also. His people will soon 
 compel him to yield. There need be no question as 
 to that. 
 
 "Then let Emin have British protection and gene- 
 rous aid, until he establishes himself firmly. When 
 once he is recognised as not one of the powers, but as 
 the power in Central Africa, w'c shall have peace, and
 
 REMEDIES SUGG/lSTED. 
 
 an end to the pretensions of such creatures as rule 
 here. Something tangible, visible, and near at hand 
 is absolutely essential to command respect and obedi- 
 ence, and that, too, by mere prestige, not by any 
 extraordinary measures. 
 
 " Each power, within the limits of its own super- 
 vision, will have a monopoly of trade and other 
 means of investing and developing capital. There 
 need be no trouble about boundaries. Already the 
 land is divided into two episcopal dioceses. A simi- 
 lar mutual understanding can surely be quietly 
 agreed to by Germany and England. This lake 
 and the Albert are sure to find themselves, sooner 
 or later, under the beneficent protection of Victoria. 
 Let Von Bismarck extend his operations right across 
 from Dar es Salaam to Unyanyembe and Tangan- 
 yika, and south to Nyassa if he likes ; England will 
 have enough to do at the sources of the Nile and in 
 the equatorial Soudan. I have merely indicated in 
 outline what might be developed into a definite 
 scheme, with peaceful ends and countless blessings 
 to this unhappy interior. The blessing of God be 
 upon every man who furthers it, or any other better 
 scheme ! " 
 
 ]\Iackay's position in Uganda at this time was 
 exceedingly painful. He was constantly suspected 
 by the chiefs and by Mwanga of having other pur- 
 poses than those of teaching — in fact, of some secret 
 understanding with the Government of England to
 
 HOLDS ON. ■x,',\ 
 
 obtain possession of the country. He was not 
 suffered to go about, but was jealously watched. 
 Again and again he was in personal danger, and 
 plots were laid to destroy him, yet he makes no 
 attempt to escape, but occupies himself with the 
 most varied kinds of work — erects an enormous 
 flag-staff for INIwanga, translates Scriptures, freely 
 uses the printing press, interests himself on behalf 
 of Emin, and especially tries to overcome Mwanga's 
 fears, so as to allow free communication with Emin, 
 and, above all, receives great numbers of readers who 
 come to him by stealth, notwithstanding the edict 
 which declared the penalty of death against all who 
 dared go to the IMission premises for instruction. 
 The letter continues : — 
 
 " I have not the slightest desire to * escape,' if I 
 can do a particle of good by staying. Your and my 
 desire, and, I believe, the desire of all our friends, is 
 that the Lord will open the way for the Mission to 
 be kept on, not abandoned. The Eleanor is in port, 
 some twelve miles off, and possibly I might make a 
 dash for it ; but what then ? I do not at present see 
 that I am warranted in seeking to do so. Anything 
 may happen at any moment, and it may be that I 
 shall be led to adopt such a course ; but hitherto I 
 believe I am doing right in quietly going on with the 
 work. My earnest heart- wish is simply to cast my- 
 self on the Master, and say, 'Thy will be done!' 
 What can I or the Mission gain by trying to resist
 
 REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 His will ? My own choice is to stay — that is, if choice 
 were given me at all. Not that we are in any favour- 
 able state at present ; on the contrary, as I hope to 
 tell you farther on, I am in no small odium at present 
 \\ith his majesty. Nor do I labour under any con- 
 ceited notion that my presence is essential to the 
 work. Well I kmow that the Lord will carry on His 
 work whether the workman be alive or buried. I 
 only wait for more light before I take any rash step. 
 I know, too, that I have a prominent place in the 
 prayers of all of you, that our people and myself may 
 be not only preserved, but guided also. I have been 
 making an effort to complete St. IMatthew. My best 
 version of the remaining chapters was unsatisfactory. 
 However, I got Duta back from Budu, and with 
 Bartolomayo, Luka, Andrea, and others, we have 
 gone steadily to work, and now we have, by God's 
 grace, rewritten the whole to the end. I thought 
 this more immediately important than jogging on as 
 I had been doing, setting up sheet by sheet ; as, in 
 case of sudden expulsion, the I\ISS. may be saved, 
 and the mere printing can be done elsewhere. Actu- 
 ally in type I have at this moment only as far as the 
 twenty-third chapter. But now, if the Lord will, 1 
 hope to go steadily on with the remaining sheets. 
 You know well the terrible number of constant inter- 
 ruptions here, which prevent one from ever getting 
 one hour steady at anything. 
 
 " Now I must try to give you a resume of events 
 here since I wrote you last, which was at the New
 
 ERECTS THE RING'S MAST. 353 
 
 Year. I have kept no proper journal, and must draw 
 from memory chiefly. By the end of the second 
 week of January I got all the beams and logs ready 
 for the frame to support the king's mast, and 'all 
 Uganda" arrived to carry them to Mengo. Then 
 the work of erection commenced, and my only car- 
 penter being laid up half the time, I had to struggle 
 on with the natives alone. I erected a stout scaffold- 
 ing, used pulle}'s and rope, and swung the heavy 
 struts into position with i&w hands. When I had 
 the pyramid erected and securely braced together, I 
 cut away all Toll's slender bracing, applied wedges, 
 and raised the mast to a truly vertical position. To 
 convince the unbelieving public, I slacked off all the 
 hawsers, which up till then were the only thing which 
 kept the huge tree from falling. The work was 
 finished by the end of January, and even Toli, who 
 had daily prophesied failure, was obliged to confess 
 that 'all Uganda' could not now knock the mast 
 down. All were pleased, and even his majesty, I 
 believe, went with the Katikiro to inspect the work, 
 and was delighted ; but to me he sent no word of 
 thanks nor even a cow's tail, except that when the 
 work was in progress he gave me a couple of goats 
 and some cowries and vnvenoe, 
 
 "I made up my mind to have a rest, and push on 
 with printing, but next day he sent down a rifle for 
 repair, which I refused to look at, and returned with 
 a flat refusal. The plague was very prevalent — 
 Kisule's boys were dying, and he himself had fled 
 
 A. M. M. 2\
 
 354 REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 from his own quaiters. I believe that Lourdel 
 ultimately got the rifle to mend. 
 
 "About the middle of January, Mohammed Biri 
 returned from Wadelai with Emin's ivory, and very 
 much more of his own and of his Arab chums. 
 After so many days' exposure to the sun, I had fever 
 off and on for a week. 
 
 " Kauta (cook), a strong enemy to Christianity, was 
 sent to rob and nyaga the island of Busi, on the 
 pretext that two years ago the natives had speared 
 one of the king's servants (who had been stealing the 
 people's goats) on the expedition to Nkanaga. This 
 fellow returned with much boot)% having slain almost 
 every man he found, and captured the women, 
 children, and cattle. The island belongs to Gabunga, 
 and he had to ferry the murderers to it, besides 
 having to pay a heavy indemnity on the plea that 
 he had sheltered the runaways from the slaughter. 
 
 "Toward the end of the year, Kibare went on a 
 I aid against some of the Baima, on the borders of 
 15usagara ; but the cowherds got notice in time, and 
 fled to Busagara with all their herds. Last month, 
 again, Kitunzi led a large force in the same direction, 
 to attack certain Basagala who were reported to have 
 been feeding their huge herds on the border. But 
 he, like Kibare, returned empty-handed, the natives 
 having again got word just in time. I believe a 
 skirmish took place, in which the Baganda did not 
 have the best of it. 
 
 " \ told you, I think, in my last, that a deputation
 
 A TRAP FOR THE CONVERTS. 355 
 
 from Unyoro had arrived, and after receiving an 
 hour of threats and insults to their king, in open 
 court, were sent back to fetch tribute of ivory, etc. 
 Emin writes me that, on my advice, he had got 
 Casati to persuade Kabarega to collect tribute, Dr. 
 Emin supplying part of the ivory. This will doubt- 
 less come soon. Meantime, the Arabs have been 
 permitted to send barter goods (only) to Unyoro, but 
 two of themselves who went were turned back on 
 the border. Poor Casati had a deal of trouble. For 
 some time he was not allowed to purchase any of 
 the goods of the Arabs, but the latest report is, that, 
 after he made a great row, he got permission. 
 
 " House-breaking and stealing has been in vogue, 
 and our arch-enemy, Mujasi, had his store broken 
 into and all his gunpowder taken. Our little king 
 was afraid that his person would be stolen next, 
 hence he sent to ask me politely (for a wonder) if I 
 would make him a door and strong lock for his 
 powder store. I agreed to do so, after the mast was 
 finished, and I have had wood cut for the purpose ; 
 but my poor carpenter is ill again, so that it will be 
 some time before that job is off my hands. 
 
 "About the time of my last letter to you, Musisi 
 Mutuba was taken out of durance and given a post 
 among the Basalosalo. Another prisoner (Kiwanuka) 
 was also liberated. His majesty also gave out that 
 those in hiding might come back. Some of those 
 who were pupils of the Roman Catholics thought to 
 venture, and one of them, named Jamari, reported
 
 356 REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 himself. He was asked to go and find his chums, 
 and bring them to the Katikiro, who would find them 
 wives and place them among the Basalosalo. The 
 lad went about for a day or two, looking for the 
 others, but none would venture ; so he returned to 
 the Katikiro's, and was taken in, but has never more 
 been seen. Kisule has made diligent inquiries, and 
 heard from some of the boys at that worthy's place 
 that Jamari was recently murdered and thrown into 
 a hole in the Muga, at the foot of the Katikiro's enclo- 
 sure. It is needless to say that the others are not 
 inclined to show face now. Apparently it was a trap 
 to catch and murder them all. 
 
 " Lourdel has been ill repeatedly ; first lumbago, 
 then neuralgia, and lastly rheumatism. He and 
 Denoit came to see me soon after the New Year, and 
 since then I have paid them a visit. The Katikiro 
 sent for me to doctor his head-wife (Kaluja), who 
 had dreadful eyes. I went to see him, and gave the 
 woman medicine, which has been effective. I refused 
 to repair a huge eight-bore rifle he got from ICmin, 
 but promised to write to Dr. Emin for the missing 
 piece. I wished a chance of sending newspapers, etc., 
 to Emin, and now I shall try to get a viubaka. Dr. 
 Emin wishes to have a monthly mail to here, but I 
 do not care to take any steps without direction, 
 having frequently of late availed myself of the Arabs' 
 men going to Unyoro. A few days after the last 
 mail came from Msalala, I was able to send word to 
 Emin of Stanley's proposed expedition.
 
 A GREAT FIRE. 357 
 
 ■' The boat was some seven weeks away on this trip, 
 and you may well guess that I almost despaired of 
 its return, fancying that it was lost. At length, on 
 Feb. 20th, a man arrived from Ntebe, reporting that 
 he had come in canoes with Wadi Muftaha (Stokes' 
 head-man), who was bringing some goods for barter. 
 He relieved my mind by reporting having seen the 
 boat at Ukumbi. Two days later (Feb. 22nd) the 
 king's palace was burnt to the ground at mid-day. 
 The fire commenced away among the women's 
 houses, and spread upwards. Fortunately he had 
 most of his, goods in new stores down near the pond, 
 and the fire did not go that wa\', while he had time 
 to save all the goods in the upper stores. All the 
 grand new houses and fences, with the great baraza 
 nku/iizc and the newly finished muzibu (big house 
 of the Kadulubare), perished. Mwanga fled to the 
 Katikiro's, but the wind was blowing in that direction, 
 and the sparks caught the houses there also, although 
 so far off. The Katikiro's men were all at the king's 
 fire, so that not a man was about to rescue his pro- 
 perty. Most of his amassed bintu seems to have been 
 burnt, and scarcely a hut left. The king fled from 
 there to Wakibi's, and finally put up at Kyimbugvve's, 
 ' It is an ill-wind that blows nobody good.' One of 
 our lads — long Musisi (Wekisa) — was in the stocks at 
 Serutis for some misdemeanour. During the excite- 
 ment of the conflagration he effected his escape, and 
 turned up here. He had been condemned to death, 
 but was in hopes of getting off with a heavy fine.
 
 3S8 REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 " If I remember well, it was in the same month of 
 February last year that Mengo was burnt. The re- 
 building is going ahead. The great mast did not 
 escape, being surrounded by the huge straw piles of 
 houses, and was burnt to ashes. So all my labour is 
 gone, but not lost. I believe the work has been of 
 advantage to the Mission, in the way of showing 
 friendship and readiness to help. I do not believe 
 our work suffers by being able to supply a little skill 
 in construction occasionally. The works of God are 
 all wonderful, and I do not believe that a Christian's 
 workmanship should be inferior to a heathen's. I 
 have not yet received any intimation regarding a new 
 flag-staff, except that I hear, privately, King Mvvanga 
 has said that he will not have another mast erected 
 by any one except the Muzungu. I have no wish to 
 spend time over such baubles ; but when work of the 
 kind helps, in ever so small a degree, to remove 
 prejudice and promote good feeling towards the 
 Mission, I do not regard the time as lost. All our 
 feeble powers can be turned to account in the 
 Master's work. 
 
 "The morning after the fire (23rd), I went to pay 
 my respects to royalty, taking a /ora/i of /?////a (the 
 only one I had), and had an interview along with the 
 Arabs, who likewise took similar gifts, according to 
 their ability. I told his majesty that if we laid our 
 heads together, we would contrive to construct his 
 fireplaces so that fire would cease to be a master, 
 and be only a servant. Probably enough, however, he
 
 I'ALAVER IVITH IHE ARABS. 359 
 
 will not care to take my advice, being dreadfully 
 afraid of my bewitching him if I interfere with his 
 hearths. If he rejects the offer, he will be only so 
 much the loser, as he has been, in fact, all along, 
 owing to his silly suspicions. 
 
 " When in audience, Nantinda arrived, reporting 
 that the Eleanor had come, and that Filipo had been 
 drowned. Many questions were asked him regarding 
 the number of white men South. Then a tedious 
 palaver with the Arabs, the king questioning them as 
 to who could read best. I interposed that seeing we 
 were all Baganda here, and not subjects of either 
 Zanzibar or Muscat, it were best that we should 
 read Luganda instead of Arabic. ' I read Luganda,' 
 I said, ' because it is the language of the king, and 
 there I am his subject ; while if I were in Muscat 
 I would learn to speak and read Arabic' Ali Bin 
 Sultan asked if he was not one of Mwanga's people? 
 I replied that when he got all his ivory, he would be 
 out of Uganda as soon as he could. This caused 
 some merriment ; but the Arab would not be out- 
 done. ' I am more of a Muganda than }'ou,' said 
 he ; ' my wives are all Baganda.' ' But you do not 
 teach them to read Arabic,' I ■ re[)lied. ' Women 
 in your eyes have no souls, and are only chattels, 
 while we teach women as well as men.' This quieted 
 him, Kauta alone reph'ing that probably we trans- 
 lated for them. Kauta is a great patron of the 
 Arab's creed, which is fashionable just now, but a.« 
 usual inclined to be cruelly so. King Mwanga has of
 
 36o REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 late been coquetting with the Koran, and talking of 
 slaying every one who refuses to read it. In fact, he 
 and all the Arabs were engaged in perusing it when 
 the fire broke out. Of course there was a general 
 stampede. Most probably Mwanga finds his new- 
 fangled notion a brand wherewith to burn the Chris- 
 tians. He had sent for Musalosalo to compel him to 
 read the Koran just before the fire. I hear that since 
 then he ordered the lad to read it, but he refused. 
 To this Mwanga replied that his lads who read 
 Kizungu were all obstinate, and had kyejo, and 
 compelled him to be for ever killing them, so that 
 people would call him a madman ! However, I have 
 not heard more of that matter, except that all our 
 lads are very uneasy and alarmed, for Mwanga seems 
 to have given out more than once that he meant to 
 ' kill very many.' In this difficulty I have had to 
 advise our people. My advice and Lourdel's arc 
 diametrically opposite, and I fully believe that many 
 good Protestants will agree with him rather than 
 with me. Lourdel tells his pupils to refuse to look 
 at the Koran, or to read it, or to take it into their 
 hands. Remember, that he likewise instructs them 
 to refuse to look at a gospel or any book of ours. 
 On the other hand, I tell our people that the king 
 has no intention of becoming a Mohammedan, for all 
 his excesses would have to be curbed in that case, 
 and he has never given the slightest hint of intend- 
 ing to give up his viayeinbe or his bhang or anything 
 else. He is only taking up a toy, to throw it aside in
 
 A QUESTION OF CONSCIENCE. 361 
 
 a week or two's time. Reading' a book or trying to 
 read it — for none of them will ever understand a word 
 of it — is by no means adopting the religion of the 
 book. Every one who reads the New Testament is 
 not necessarily a Christian, nor is every one who 
 reads the Koran a Mohammedan. They must dis- 
 tinguish between mere reading and religion. Many 
 Christians read the Koran, with no more idea of 
 believing it than believing the fable of ' Wakaima 
 and Wakikere.' Such is the drift of my argument, 
 advising them at the same time to have nothing to 
 do with the Koran unless summoned before the 
 king and compelled to read, which is only a me- 
 chanical act, and is far removed from religion. I 
 advise them at the same time to refuse /// toto to 
 perform Arabic prayers or other rites. But there is 
 not much likelihood, meantime, at any rate, of the 
 matter going so far; and may the good Lord prevent 
 it ! While there is no need of stirring np a perse- 
 cution again, when the matter is merely one of 
 learning an alphabet, and haply a few S3-Ilables. 
 Lourdel was here recently, and I spoke to him. He 
 seemed uncertain in mind as to what was right, and 
 began some doctrines of puzzles,' like their infinitesi- 
 mals of Latria and Doulia. I asked him plainl}', 
 ' Did you never read any of the Koran .'' ' He could 
 not say ' No ' ; and there I dropped the matter. 
 
 "Well, I know that some will condemn me as hold- 
 ing a doctrine of expediency ; but I have no fear of 
 condemnation from men of liberal minds and large
 
 36i REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 hearts, wliose condemnation I should be sorry to 
 have, while the others would, more than likely, 
 condemn me for any possible view that ventured to 
 differ a hair's-brcadth from their own. You know 
 the old saw, ' My doxy is orthodoxy, any other doxy 
 is heterodoxy.' Many a life has been lost in this 
 country for learning no more than our alphabet : 
 should more lives go merely for declining to learn 
 the Arabic alphabet ? Few, very few, will go further; 
 few went further before, when it was strongly in 
 vogue, and no Christianity to counteract it. Do we 
 not ever see that in the case of the real Mussulmans 
 who come here, the most unpromising feature about 
 them is their obstinacy and bigotry, which will not 
 allow them even to look at our Gospel ! I believe 
 we shall gain a great point when Christianity ceases 
 to be called the white man's religion. The foolish 
 phrase, ' Kusoma Kizungu,' creates needless sus- 
 picion. I am ever battling with it among our own 
 people, and trying to get them to use ' Soma 
 Luganda ' instead. When will they learn that Chris- 
 tianity is cosmopolitan and not Anglican .'' But there 
 is so much in our ways and methods that strengthens 
 the idea of foreign rule — English men, English c/mrch, 
 English forinn/aries, English Bishop ! Nor can the 
 evil be readily rectified, until we are become more 
 prepared to look on Africa as our Jiovie, or, if you 
 like, till we become more truly identified with Africa 
 than heretofore. Here, too, I fear, I shall be con- 
 strued wrongly. But I allude only to mental affinity
 
 PLENTY OF PUPILS. 363 
 
 "The edict for catchin[;^ people on the roads at ni^^ht 
 gradually became more and more of a dead letter, as 
 most things do in this country, and at present seems 
 to have been withdrawn. Hence I have almost all 
 along had a fair number of pupils every evening. At 
 present we are going through St. Luke, for the — 
 I-cannot-say-hovv-many — th time. We had a good 
 stock of that Gospel, while the idiom of it has ever 
 been almost unintelligible to most. Hence, {q.\v ever 
 took to it, the rage being on St. Matthew. But 
 necessity compelled me to take up St. Luke, and 
 now they seem all keen for it. I have read also 
 several Epistles this last month with the more 
 advanced ones. The Apocalypse, too, is always a 
 favourite, as also the Acts. When, oh wlien, can 
 they have more than the veriest fraction of the Word 
 in their own tongue — I mean in real idiomatic 
 intelligible language ? The Suahili is, I fear, some- 
 times very ' Kizungu,' and frequently not a little 
 coloured by the theological dogmas of the translator. 
 That is a great snare, and can only be avoided by 
 the closest accuracy in following the text, and by the 
 other invaluable safeguard of viany minds. When 
 can we be together again at this' work .'' The Lord 
 hasten the day ! This one-man job is little better 
 than a makeshift, let me be e\ er so careful. I only 
 hope revisers will treat with leniency what is at least 
 an honest endeavour to be accurate. 
 
 " On Sundays I generally have a houseful ; in fact, 
 far more than I think meantime safe or prutlent.
 
 364 REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 Hut we must risk something. If Nero could let the 
 manifestation of Christ, the Lord Jesus will also let 
 the lawlessness of Nero. Let us, therefoic, not be 
 troubled or too anxious. We may soon sec the 
 kingdom of God coming here with power, although 
 not with sudden observation. 
 
 " I trust that some of our people are growing in 
 knowledge, and I hope in grace also. One good sign 
 is that beginners are numerous, being taught by those 
 of older standing. Books and papers continue to be 
 purchased. I printed 200 Ngates^ since you left, and 
 every one has been bought. Litany is entirely run 
 out some time ago, and of the Mateka I have only two 
 or three left. Even hymns continue to be bought. 
 Of the Njatula I find still some 300 on hand, so that 
 about 700 of these are in circulation. Gordon kindly 
 sent me a parcel of Suahili books last month, and 
 there is always more or less a demand for these. 
 The little admiral still adheres to the faith, and 
 comes occasionally. Edward has got promotion, 
 being now Mutesa, one of the biggest Kitongolos in 
 the country. He ceases, however, to superintend the 
 new buildings, the Katikiro having lodged a complaint 
 that he was taxing the chiefs, etc., too heavily. The 
 Katikiro's alleged reason was that this heavy fining 
 would delay the building of the new capital. Of 
 course the reason is a general mutinous spirit among 
 the chiefs, who know well that these perpetual fines 
 
 ' Syllables.
 
 THE QUEEN-MOTHER'S ADVICE. 365 
 
 find their way into the king's treasury. His majesty 
 accordingly handed over the erection of the new- 
 buildings to the Katikiro himself — and already I 
 hear that poor Edward has got into trouble for some 
 act of kyejo or other. Zakari}a is still in hiding, and 
 has from sheer necessity taken to the hoe. Samuel 
 is likewise invisible, but communicates with me. 
 Henry Wright spent a week or two here, but is now 
 gone. One or two chiefs are learning secretly — 
 Mwemba and Kajongolo. Trouble seems, however, 
 not far off. A few weeks ago there was a general 
 scare, and we all expected another outbreak of 
 cruelty. King IVhvanga has been heard to say that 
 he intended slaughtering the Christians, who, he said, 
 were still many. The queen-mother heard of it, and 
 seems to have got the Katikiro and Kibare to advise 
 the insane youth to forbear, and only kill any in- 
 dividuals who were guilty of direct acts of dis- 
 obedience. She seems also to have sent Manoga 
 too with a direct message to his highness, advising 
 him to retain his pages, etc., about him, as they were 
 guilty of no crime, and were his only strength, while 
 the chiefs generally were in a state of discontent. 
 Would that the foolish tj-rant would take this sensible 
 advice, for the future chiefs are these very pages and 
 attendants ! 
 
 " Unhappil)', an unfortunate incident occurred soon 
 after. The soldiers, you know, have the fences to 
 build, as their share of the rojal work. Our diligent 
 reader and counsellor Mika (Sematimba) set off a few
 
 366 REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 days after the fire, to cut canes {ngd) for tying- the 
 fences. As he expected to be away for some time, 
 he took his traps with him, and his boy Sabadu. On 
 the way he met some Bakyala, whose baga::i, as 
 usual, took a fancy to Sabadu's bundle. Of course, 
 expostulations followed, and Mika's gun was also 
 taken, while out of the bundle fell some books ! 
 Mika took refuge in flight, and next day the books 
 were handed to the king, who sent them to the 
 Katikiro. But the fate of Jamari was too recent to 
 give confidence. Mika was living at Kitebi with 
 Haruni, and as Mika determined to flee, the other 
 had to go also, as he would have to give evidence. 
 Well for them that, they did go into hiding, for 
 Mukajanga was sent on their track, only I am happy 
 to say the lads got off in the direction of Nikodemo's. 
 I sincerely trust they will get out of the country 
 altogether. Probably, if many more were to escape, 
 there would be more liberty given to those who 
 remain, in case they desert also. But, poor fellows, 
 they are chary of all neighbouring countries, which 
 are more savage than their own, and mostly hostile 
 to this land of robbers. By the way, I hear that 
 Byakweaola is safe at Kabarega's, and has sent a 
 message to me for books and papers. Kabarega 
 seems to have expressed a desire that I should leave 
 this, and come to teach him ! 
 
 " I am very glad to see that the C.M.S. have got a 
 friend of Africa as Treasurer, Sir T. Fowell Buxton. 
 You cannot do better than get acquainted with him,
 
 GUNS AND GUNPOWDER. 367 
 
 and confer together on the interests of this wretched 
 portion of the earth's surface. Sir Thomas is a 
 philanthropist, and the representative of a family to 
 be mentioned with Wilberforcc, Gordon, Stevenson, 
 and Mackinnon. There are not many men in 
 England oi very large hearts, large enough to tike in 
 all Africa, but I have long believed that Sir T. F. 
 Buxton is one. 
 
 " Do try your utmost to press the fire-arms ques- 
 tion. Interests of gun makers and powder-makers, 
 and petty traders, are all so bound up in it that you 
 will find it as * tickle a pint ' as the whisky-dealers' 
 trafiic. ' Free trade,' and such-like objections, will 
 be raised ; but there can be no free trade in robbery 
 and murder, or in the means for carrying on these 
 unspeakable atrocities. Above all, in the present 
 pocket- sparing epoch, when all the cry is 'expense,' 
 as if all the end of existence were money-grubbing, 
 you can well urge the argument of the cheapness with 
 which a firm grip can be got of petty potentates, 
 by allowing them only so much in the way of arms 
 and ammunition annually, according to their good 
 behaviour ! Of course, smuggling arms will be tried ; 
 but that is neither here nor there. Is no evil ever 
 to be prevented, because a few individuals ever will 
 succeed in evading the law ? 
 
 "The profits to honest merchants on legitimate 
 trade will be enormously enhanced when peace, and 
 not war, is the order of the day among these millions 
 of blacks. But they must be helpetl to peace, just as
 
 368 REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 hitherto they have been helped to war. It is a 
 dreadful and loud-cr}'inr^ iniquity, that the British 
 Agent in Zanzibar should be found backing Tipu 
 Tip, the robber and murderer of hundreds and 
 thousands of our fellow-creatures in the heart of 
 Africa. I hope you will be able to expose by tongue 
 and pen this lieinous patronage of bloodshed. Please 
 try to see the Rev. Horace Waller (editor of Living- 
 stones Last Journals). He, too, is a friend of Africa. 
 
 "The voice of Moffat and Livingstone is not 
 silenced, and will not be, until the tribunal of 
 Almighty Justice ceases to condemn the horrors of 
 injustice in Central Africa. 
 
 " Another interesting relic of good Bishop Han- 
 nington was brought me for sale a few weeks ago, 
 viz., a journal of his voyage out and travels in 
 Palestine, and arrival in Cairo, C7i route for his new 
 diocese. He left the Nile there, close by its entrance 
 into the ocean, and just succeeded in getting a 
 glimpse of it in its exit from the N\'anza, when he 
 was to be done for ever with rivers of earth, and 
 drink for evermore of the great river of the Water of 
 Life. I am sending the book by this mail to Mrs. 
 Hannington. 
 
 " What sadness and melancholy comes over me at 
 times, and I find m.\'self shedding tears like a cliild ! 
 Then those wonderfully consoling psalms of David 
 and Asaph, which send a thrill of joy into my whole 
 being. This ail-but omnipotent reign of evil weighs 
 one down, and then the exultant hope of its eterna'.
 
 EVILS OF ISOLATION. 369 
 
 destruction, and the ultimate triumph of good, cheers 
 me up to more endurance and perseverance to the 
 end. What is perliaps the saddest aspect of all, is 
 the half-hearted callousness of our many friends and 
 supporters, who let truisms and platitudes take the 
 place in their hearts of faith and energy in doing 
 battle against the powers of evil. ' Pra}er moves 
 the Hand that moves the world,' but the fingers of 
 that Hand are earnest men ! 
 
 " Many thanks for the ' Shakspeare.' Two Revised 
 Bibles came by the last post, the same edition and 
 binding as the one you left me. I shall send one of 
 them to Emin. I mean to send him also Drum- 
 mond's ' Natural Law.' It may help, by God's 
 blessing, to open his eyes. As Emin is a biologist, 
 possibly he will readily agree in the main argument. 
 
 " There can be no question but that all history 
 shows plainly, that among races of men isolation 
 produces degeneration, while intercourse with other 
 nations tends to elevation. Were this interior brought 
 more into contact with the outside world, the horrid 
 deeds of cruelty would hide their heads in shame. 
 Even Christianity, when isolated, has generally 
 become either corrupt or extinct. Look at the 
 Armenian and Abyssinian Churches, for the religious 
 degeneration, while all Africa is a standing testimony 
 to the destructive power of isolation. One of the 
 most powerful factors that will in future elevate the 
 African will be communication. The strength of the 
 powers of evil in this interior lies in their inaccessi- 
 
 A. M. M. 24
 
 370 REMEDIES SUGGESTED. 
 
 bility from without, I must therefore hope that you 
 will be able to get some good company of Christian 
 merchants to put their heads together, and follow up 
 your seller le from Mombasa to Spcke Gulf"
 
 DRIVEN OUT.
 
 ' BuRUNGUGE Island. 
 
 '•'■June 23///, 1 889. 
 " To Mr. Mackay,— 
 
 " I send very many compliments to you and to Mr. Gordon. 
 
 " After compliments, I, Mwanga, beg of you to help me. Do 
 not remember bygone matters. We are now in a miserable 
 plight, but if you, my fathers, are willing to come and help to 
 restore me to my kingdom, you will be at liberty to do what- 
 ever you like. 
 
 " Formerly I did not know God, but now I know the religion 
 of Jesus Christ. Consider how Kalema has killed all my 
 brothers and sisters ; he has killed my children, too, and now 
 there remain only we two princes [Kalema and myselfj. Mr. 
 Mackay, do help me ; I have no strength, but if you are with 
 me I shall be strong. Sir, do not imagine that if you restore 
 Mwanga to Uganda, he will become bad again. If you find me 
 become bad, then you may drive me from the throne ; but I 
 have given up my former ways, and I only wish now to follow 
 ) our advice. " I am your friend, 
 
 " (Signed) Mwanga."
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 AFTER various adventures Mackay succeeds in 
 establishing himself at Usanibiro, on the south 
 coast of the Victoria Nyanza, and in the territory 
 of a friendly chief Soon after this, Bishop Parker 
 arrives, and a missionary conference is held for many 
 days, there being then no fewer than six brethren at 
 the station. Within a fortnight of each other, the 
 bishop and Mr. Blackburn were suddenly smitten 
 with fever and passed away. The others disperse to 
 different stations, except Mr. Ashe, who remains at 
 Usambiro ; but after a time he is obliged to return to 
 England, on account of his health, and once more 
 Mackay is left alone. 
 
 After a time, however, the two brethren who had 
 gone on to Uganda escape, after many perils, and 
 arrive at Usambiro in a most forlorn condition. Mr. 
 Walker proceeds to Nasa ; but Mr. Gordon remains 
 with Mackay, and is of great assistance in teaching 
 the Christian refugees from Uganda 
 
 Mackay carries on his re-translation of St, John's 
 Gospel ; and much of his time and strength are spent 
 in the forest, felling and sawing timber, and trans- 
 
 373
 
 374 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 porting it in a four-wheeled wagon he had made to 
 a convenient spot for building tlie proposed steam- 
 launch. The next item of special interest is the 
 arrival of Mr. H. M. Stanley and party with Emin 
 Pasha and their motley group of followers, on their 
 way to the coast. 
 
 " South End of Smith Sound, 
 " Victoria Nyanza, 
 ''Sept. jth, 1887. 
 
 " I am comparatively by myself again, as Wise 
 is at Msalala (twelve miles distant), but he comes 
 over here occasionally. Gordon bravely went on to 
 Uganda to take my place for a time There was no 
 one else to go, Hooper being alone at Uyui, and I 
 had promised to send some one on at once. I am 
 fully confident that Gordon is quite safe in Uganda 
 just now. Were not that my conviction, I should 
 not have asked him to go at all. In fact, I was more 
 than half minded to go back myself 
 
 " I expect the bishop and Ashe and some others in 
 about two months. I believe they are bringing a 
 boat with them, and the heavy end of building that 
 will probably fall on this child ; but I may be 
 mistaken. 
 
 '* Here I am encamped by the creek, with a fine 
 view of the water, and plenty of mosquitoes at night. 
 The ground, too, is swarming with white ants, and 
 a box or anything edible is devoured in an hour or 
 two. These little horrors — ants and mustics — are the
 
 LIONS AND LEOPARDS. 375 
 
 plague of my life, — nearly as bad as the Arabs in 
 Uganda. Msalala is a horrible place for leopards 
 and lions after dark. They used to run round and 
 round the house. Mwanga likes to be called a lion ; 
 and alone in the country he has the privilege of 
 sitting on a leopard's skin. I hope one of these days 
 to get your box of little things. A cup, or a tumbler, 
 or a few pins or needles and thread I am always glad 
 to get." 
 
 "C.M.S. Port, 
 " South End of Smith Sound, 
 
 ''Oct. yd, 1887. 
 
 " I have heard not a word yet of Stanley from this 
 side, and scarcely now expect to hear ; nor have we 
 any news from Uganda since I left it, and Gordon 
 bravely went there to take my place. One of the 
 most unfavourable things we have to struggle with in 
 Central Africa is the want of easy and rapid com- 
 munication from place to place. Doubtless that will 
 be remedied in time, as it has, in fact, been already 
 considerably remedied. Our monthK- mail to the 
 coast is an unspeakable comfort. Eleven years ago 
 there was no mail at all. I often think that we have 
 great reason to thank God and take courage, when 
 we reflect upon the progress that has been made 
 already, notwithstanding many and great reverses. 
 
 " I have just returned from a fortnight's stay and 
 worry at Msalala. ]\Ir. Wise had sent over for me, 
 as he was very ill, and the chief was anno\-ing him 
 bcx'ond forbearance with demands for blackmail.
 
 376 DRIVEN our. 
 
 "After I went over there, Wise soon recovered, 
 and the chief kept quiet for a week. He then sent 
 us an insolent message that we must either fight or 
 evacuate the station. We repHed that we had no 
 desire to shed blood, nor had we given any provoca- 
 tion; but that we were prepared to go away if desired. 
 After many palavers, and much bullying on the part 
 of the natives, we commenced to pack up the Mission 
 property. Then the chief, fearing he would lose 
 many a broad yard of cloth, tried to apologise, and 
 bade us stay. But during the last two years, ever 
 since he has been there, he has proved so rapacious 
 and false to his word, that we could not see it our 
 duty to continue to throw away the funds upon him. 
 Far and near the story of his rapacity has spread, and 
 the natives have come to believe that they have only 
 to bully the white man to get whatever they demand. 
 Hence, we must consent to sacrifice all the labour 
 and expense of buildings, etc., in order to dispel this 
 illusion. We have packed up most of the stuff, and 
 already a considerable part is carried over this way. 
 
 "At Uyui, too, matters are no better. The chief 
 there has proved so exorbitant in his demands, which 
 he enforces by terror, that the bishop, who has ar- 
 rived there, is preparing to remove the Mission from 
 under his power, and form a station with a friendly 
 chief in the neighbourhood. As the bishop says, 
 'Thus only can we teach these petty tyrants the 
 lesson that when their demands exceed moderation, 
 we cannot stay with them.' I need scarcely say that,
 
 THE SOWING AND REAPING STAGE. 377 
 
 up till now, neither at Msalala nor at Uyui have 
 there been found any converts, nor even a desire on 
 the part of any of the natives for even the first 
 elements of Christian instruction. 
 
 " But when turned out of one place, God raises us 
 up friends ready to welcome us in another. Of course 
 they hope chiefl\^ if not altogether, to profit only 
 materially by our presence ; but all along we are 
 obliged, in Africa, to take advantage of a desire for 
 material benefit to gain a footing and so to find 
 ourselves in a position to introduce spiritual teaching. 
 It has proved equally so in Uganda. 
 
 " Current ideas at home as to Mission work are, I 
 fear, very different ; but I have not heard of any part 
 of Africa, east or west, where the native bearing to the 
 Missions is different from what it is in this neigh- 
 bourhood. It is a system of beggary from beginning 
 to end, and too often of suspicion, and more or less 
 hostility too. Only when these first adverse stages 
 are passed, can we expect to do any real good. 
 Disarming suspicion and securing friendship are a 
 slow process, but an absolutely necessary one. They 
 are most wearisome, and trying to the faith and 
 temper of those engaged in the task, while they yield 
 no returns to show in Mission reports ; yet on their 
 success depends the future of our work. Here- 
 about we are so far from the reaping stage, that we 
 can scarcely be said even to be solving. We are 
 merely clearing the ground, and cutting down the 
 natural growth of suspicion and jealousy, and clear-
 
 378 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 ing out the hard stones of ignorance and superstition. 
 Only after the ground is thus in some measure pre- 
 pared and broken up, can we cast in tlie seed with 
 hope of a harvest in God's good time." 
 
 " South End of Victoria Nyanza, 
 
 ''Dec. 2>oth, 1S87. 
 
 "On July 2ist you got not only a son but a 
 brother also, for on that day, by the infinite grace of 
 our Lord, I was permitted to leave Uganda. Pos- 
 sibly I shall soon have to go back there again; but 
 meantime I have much to do here; and when that is 
 done, if I am granted strength to do it, I should 
 fondly hope to come to see you all before crossing 
 the lake again. But that is yet, I fear, a long way 
 ahead, and He who has so well disposed of all our 
 concerns hitherto, will lead us also in the future as 
 He sees to be best for each one of us. 
 
 "Ashe and Walker arrived here safely some three 
 weeks ago. The bishop and Blackburn also came 
 back from IVIagu, while Hooper came on from Uyui, 
 so there are six of us here altogether. We are busy 
 holding a many days' conference, so as to settle the 
 important questions connecteLJ with the working of 
 the Mission. W'e have a prayer meeting ever)' 
 morning, and the conference afterwards. 
 
 "Bishop Parker is a very good and true man, and is 
 much liked by us all. I believe that his presence 
 will do much good in the field. 
 
 "Gordon is still in Utranda. Mv latc«;t from him
 
 ALL HANDS BUSY. 379 
 
 is dated Nov. 16. At that date all was fairly quiet, 
 and some increased liberty granted to our people to 
 worship. May it long continue." 
 
 " USAMBIRO, /<^;/. 26th, 1888. 
 
 "Ashe is here, and Walker, as well as Bishop 
 Parker. 
 
 "We are all quite ignorant of the language, and 
 are as busy as possible erecting buildings and break- 
 ing in ground for cultivation. The bishop takes the 
 cultivation in hand, besides a deal of other work. 
 His example is most beneficial to us all. Deekes is 
 here, too, at present, but hopes to join Hooper at the 
 new station at Nasa, on Speke Gulf. 
 
 " It satisfies some people to know that there are 
 Missions in Africa, without inquiring if their numbers 
 are in any way commensurate with the requirements. 
 The C.M.S. in East Africa is only a handful. The 
 L.M.S. are less. The Germans have begun on the 
 coast with two or three missionaries at as many 
 points. But it is almost a certainty that, under 
 present difficulties as to men and means, all these 
 societies together will never in centuries of time 
 be able to undertake the vast work to be done in 
 East Africa alone. Even if the}' were to increase 
 their respective staffs to double or treble, yet all 
 would not suffice even for a fraction. We therefore 
 see that some totally new departure must be made, if 
 the work is to be done at all. The work viust be 
 done, and now is the time. Doors are open every-
 
 38o DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 where, and Christian England is content to see 
 generation after generation of human beings passing 
 away without the Gospel. Mission work abroad must 
 be, once and for all, made the work of the Church. 
 Home work will gain thereby. There will be no lack 
 of labourers for tJiat at all times. It is not those 
 who have no ties to bind them at h.ome, and who 
 have no sacrifices to make, whom we want abroad. 
 We want the best and the ablest, and those who 
 can be least spared at home, to come out here. 
 Each one can find reasons for keeping him or her 
 at home. But strike a balance. Are the reasons for 
 pressing, at all hazards, into the foreign field not 
 much stronger? Can we conscientiously decline for 
 reasons of our own, to obey our King's command, 
 Go ye, not send .'* Nowadays, even some Church- 
 men advocate Islam for the negro, instead of Chris- 
 tianity, chiefly because Islam is infinitely more 
 pushing than Christianity. How long is this to be 
 so ? Do our Christian friends not know that once 
 people become Mohammedans, it is almost impos- 
 sible to evangelise them ? Hosts of traders, schemers, 
 and irreligious persons are now pushing into East 
 Africa with spirits and other evils, and the natives 
 will soon be so disgusted with white men and their 
 vices, that they will not look with any favour at 
 their religion, when it conies in feeble efforts after. 
 Now, therefore, is the time to save East Africa ; and 
 eternal shame will be on the Church if this oppor- 
 tunity is lost,"
 
 H^ASTE OF ENERGY AT HOME. 381 
 
 " UsAMBiRO, /^?//. 2yth, 1 888. 
 "Since I left Uganda, I cannot say that I am quite 
 at home; but I must consider it as such for some time 
 to come. The field is enormous, and our force, even 
 if increased tenfold, would be all too icv; for the work. 
 I would therefore be in no way justified in seeking to 
 return just now to England, unless ill-health or some 
 such cause were to compel me. At the same time, I 
 feel very grateful for your kind invitation to me to 
 pay you a visit. May the day soon come when I 
 shall be able with a clear conscience to avail m)-self 
 of a holiday. Yet a run to England would, I fear, be 
 no rest. The sleepy Church has to be stirred up 
 to infinitely greater interest in Mission work. How 
 could I sit down in peace, knowing the crying needs 
 of Africa ? The conversion of the heathen must be- 
 come the work of the Church, and not merely a small 
 branch of its work. Only when one actually sees 
 the total ignorance and darkness of millions of 
 people, can one in proper measure realize the great 
 need of thousands and tens of thousands of mission- 
 aries among the heathen. This strikes me more 
 forcibly when I reflect on the enormous ivaste of 
 energy in Christian work at home, each petty sect 
 struggling to uphold its own shibboleth with a hand- 
 ful of adherents in every parish and village, instead 
 of agreeing to let their paltry differences drop, and 
 sacrificing a trifle for the great work of the regenera- 
 tion of lost races of men. Millions untold arc surely 
 more to be cared for than trifling peculiarities of
 
 382 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 creed. But these go down to the grave, age after 
 age, without a hope, because Christian men love to 
 squabble over infinitesimals on Church government 
 and the like! If this goes on much longer, surely 
 there will come a day of reckoning. In olden times 
 the Churches of Europe and Asia spent their time in 
 debating on trifles. Their candlestick was therefore 
 removed, and to-day we see the Crescent ruling where 
 once the Cross was triumphant. Even to-day w-e see 
 agnosticism and infidelity growing at an alarming 
 pace, while our Churches battle with each other and 
 denounce one another. 
 
 "But we pray and hope that all this may cease, and 
 that men of God will find their love to Him so real 
 that they will take to loving one another and their 
 heathen fellow-men." 
 
 " USAMDIRO, Feb. 24///, 1888. 
 " We are still plodding on, meantime, chiefly build- 
 ing and clearing the jungle for cultivation, as the 
 rainy season is now setting in, and we must be under 
 cover of some sort, besides having to provide food for 
 the coming year. The boat has not returned yet 
 from Uganda, since it left at the New Year. Nor 
 have we any news yet of Stanley from this side. I 
 guess that he will have very much to do at Wadelai, 
 setting things in order and quelling insutjordination 
 among the Egyptian officers, who hold many of 
 Emin's chief forts on their own account, and give 
 little heed to his authority. Unless Stanley and Emin
 
 THE BISHOP AND BLACKBURN DIE. 383 
 
 either remove or hang some of these, the Soudau 
 equatorial province will be worth little. No half- 
 and-half measures do in Africa." 
 
 " USAMBIRO, April 2yd, 1 888. 
 
 " You will have doubtless seen the telegram we 
 sent to be wired from Zanzibar, reporting the death 
 here of first Mr. Blackburn, and exactly fourteen days 
 afterwards, to an hour, of the bishop himself. Black- 
 burn lay a week in a semi-conscious state. The 
 bishop was only one day ill, and quite delirious most 
 of the time. Both had become perfectly yellow with 
 jaundice. Bile seems a terrible poison to the blood 
 and brain, rendering one dead to all outside, and 
 the other wild with delirium. However, both passed 
 away insensibly, and theirs now is the gain. They 
 had travelled togetlier from the coast, and we have 
 laid them side by side under a tree in the jungle close 
 by, piling a great heap of stones over each grave, and 
 planting an euphorbia fence round the plot of ground. 
 
 " Thus twice within a fortnight, Ashe and I have 
 performed the sacred duty of commending our dying 
 brethren to the Saviour whom they served, and 
 closing their eyes. On both occasions I read the 
 funeral service at the grave in Suahili, a score of 
 African Christians from Freretown standing round. 
 
 " It has indeed been a heavy time of sorrow to us 
 all ; but more so to the distant friends will the news 
 bring sudden grief The conquest of Africa has 
 alread}' cost many lives; but every one gone is a step
 
 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 .nearer victory. The end to be gained is, however, 
 worth the price paid. The redemption of the world 
 cost infinitely more. 
 
 " Now just pity us, and, above all, pity the work as 
 it stands to-day. A bishop will, I dare say, not be 
 hard to find, for the post is one of honour, even in the 
 eyes of the world ; but where are the rank and file of 
 the Mission staff to come from .-* I have no doubt but 
 that our broken ranks would soon be more than re- 
 filled if our friends would only busy themselves to care 
 to do something for the Mission field. Many are glad 
 to get information from the heathen world ; and the 
 more the accounts bristle with dangers, and horrors, 
 and murders, and massacres, the more spicy it is. But 
 is the effect produced more than the transient interest 
 in reading a tragic play .'* The mass of even our best 
 Christians still look on the foreign field as of only 
 secondary concern — at least as work for only a 
 devoted few, but not for all. The Continental idea of 
 ' every citizen a soldier,' is the true watchword for 
 the Church and Missions. 
 
 " Now I make one request, viz., that among all your 
 kindred and acquaintance you get every year one man 
 to take up foreign Mission work. In that way we 
 shall make substantial progress." 
 
 "MUTEREZA, KWA MaKOLO, 
 
 "Victoria Nyanza, Aug. Sth, 1888. 
 " I shall be very glad to see the * Missionary Re- 
 view of the World.' I had not heard of it before.
 
 AGAIN LEFT ALONE. 383 
 
 " My brother Ashe left this for the coast about ten 
 days ago, so that I am once more in what may be 
 called solitude. Still I have plenty of natives always 
 about me, and my hands full of work. I scarcely 
 expect now to have a companion before the end of 
 the year. Ashe was very often ailing" here, and did 
 not seem to improve in health as time went on. ]>ut 
 I hope the march will set him up, and that he will 
 be spared for many years of usefulness, only in a 
 cooler climate. 
 
 " I have my hands full, preparing to build our new 
 boat. I have to cut the timber some twenty miles 
 distant, and have it carried here. You will be pro- 
 bably disgusted at hearing that I am busy just now 
 making bricks to build a house in which to construct 
 the vessel. Within the last fortnight we have made 
 some ten thousand. That is doubtless poor work to 
 be occupied with in the Mission field, but it must be 
 done ; and in even such humble occupation I hope 
 the good Lord will not withhold His blessing. Mis- 
 sion boats unfortunately do r\o'i groiv of themselves, — 
 they have to be built, every inch of them. But trees 
 have been growing for ages, of the Lord's planting ; 
 and as we fell them, I like to think that He ordained 
 them for this purpose." 
 
 "USAMBIRO, KWA ]\L\KOT.O, 
 
 ''Sept t^th, 1888. 
 "\Vc have had a war scare here, and all the neigh- 
 bourhood is in arms, while bands of armed men l:avc 
 A. M. M. 25
 
 3^6 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 come from Uzinja (to the north) to aid Makolo to 
 beat the foe. An attack was expected from the 
 Msalala country, where they are jealous of Malcolo 
 having a white man, and all his wealth (!)^ all to him- 
 self ; but the expected raid has not taken place, and 
 I hope will not. I have a horror of war, whether in 
 Europe or in Africa. Even these little wars, which 
 are of no account in Europe, yet are enough to cost 
 :he lives of many concerned, and to devastate whole 
 neighbourhoods. Whoever is victor does not fail to 
 make the unfortunate white man pay heavily, although 
 he liad no part whatever in the affair. 
 
 " But, thank God, hitherto we have been preserved 
 from all danger, and long may peace reign ! 
 
 " Recently I got (from Ashe) two charming works 
 by Professor Westcott, of Cambridge, — one called 
 'The Revelation of the Risen Lord,' and the other 
 ' The Gospel of the Resurrection.' The former of 
 these is, most likel}', the more popular, because sim- 
 pler ; but the latter is, to my mind, superior. It is, 
 however, not light reading. Each page requires care- 
 ful thought and close application, so as to grasp 
 fully the meaning. 
 
 " Perhaps the reading which I have most enjoyed of 
 a general character, for the last two or three years, 
 has been the Contemporary Reviciv. In one of the 
 
 1 At this time he had not only to protect the Mission property, 
 but also a large quantity of goods which had been sent up for 
 Stanley by the Emin Relief Committee.
 
 SMALLPOX KACLXG. 3S7 
 
 ast numbers of it I read a very able paper on 'Bap- 
 tist Tlieology,' by Dr. Clifford. It has given me a 
 good understanding of the characteristic points of 
 view held by your denomination. I enjoyed the 
 article very much. 
 
 " Smallpox is raging everywhere about, and I have 
 vaccinated hosts of people — old and young. This 
 year my own household has escaped the disease, but 
 last year we had many deaths ; while one year in 
 Uganda our Mission station was full of it, and deaths 
 were numerous. It is a dreadful scourge in Africa. 
 Perhaps the ' plague ' of Uganda is worse, but that 
 dreadful disease seems to be confined to the north 
 side of the Lake. 
 
 " No news yet of Stanley. It seems not to be 
 generally known that Stanley, after arriving at Wadc- 
 lai, would have a most difficult task to perform ; viz., 
 to reduce Emin's province to allegiance. I know 
 that all his Egyptian officers were in a state of all 
 but mutiny, each one holding his own fort! Emin 
 had to rely on his black soldiers only, as Gordon did. 
 Otherwise he would have been either murdered or 
 expelled long ago. But we must also remember that 
 all the Egyptian officers there were sent there origi- 
 nally as criminals. The Equator was the Botany Bay 
 of Egypt. Dr. Junker knows this, but I am not 
 aware that he has made the matter public.''
 
 3S8 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 To HIS Father :— 
 
 " USAMBIRO, Oct. 26ih, iSSS. 
 >:c * * t- 
 
 "Arc you gifted with second sight? In your last 
 (June 14th) you say of IMwanga that 'his day is 
 coming pretty fast.' 
 
 " Mwanga's da}' has come. Uganda has rebelled, 
 and the poor king has had to flee, getting into his 
 canoe with some boys and women, and paddling for 
 dear life, till he reached Magu, where he is being at 
 present fleeced by the Arabs of all he has (only a few 
 rifles) for food and clothing. After he has spent all, 
 he will learn to be in want. I have already sent for 
 him to come here, that I may help him on the way 
 to the coast, as if the Baganda come after him, they 
 will surely put him to death. I should willingly do 
 my utmost to save the poor creature's life, in spite of 
 all his cruelties and murders ; even although I run 
 no little risk in helping him, for the Arabs will 
 try to make capital out of him, while the Baganda 
 may complain that I stole away their king. He was 
 afraid to come away from Magu with only my men, 
 lest the Arabs should send after him and arrest him. 
 He implores me to go to fetch him myself, and take 
 him anywhere I like, or slay him if I like ! Or he is 
 ready to go with me to England, which he has heard 
 is an asylum for deposed kings. But I am unwilling 
 to risk going to Magu, lest Walker and Gordon 
 might get into trouble, in Uganda, through any in- 
 discretion of mine. I must try, once more, to send
 
 IN THE MIDST OF A FIGHT. 389 
 
 and persuade the timid fugitive to get away from 
 the Arabs' clutches, and come here, where I shall do 
 what I can to help him on the road southwards. 
 
 " Here our Mission station has just been again in 
 great danger from war. The chief of Msalala, ex- 
 asperated that we deserted him and came here, col- 
 lected a large army and came last week and attacked 
 Makolo, our chief here. The fighting lasted three 
 days, and villages have been burnt and lives lost, but 
 our chief was strongly reinforced by Roma's people, 
 and succeeded in beating the enemy. I had to pre- 
 pare to defend the Mission people and property, and 
 had an anxious time of watching night and day in 
 case of an attack ; but, thank God, we were preserved 
 untouched. Of course I was prepared to pay a heavy 
 indemnity, rather than have to fight, if the invaders 
 would consent to negotiate ; but as they were defeated, 
 they left decidedly crestfallen. Mr. Dcekes has just 
 come down from Nasa on a visit, so I have the 
 pleasure of companionship once more. I hope, too, 
 that by Christmas, at least one of our new men will 
 get this length. 
 
 " I have been busy, when I am not supervising 
 building work, retranslating St.' John's Gospel into 
 Luganda." 
 
 " USAMBIRO, Dec. 0,th, 1SS8. 
 " A number of our Christian people in Uganda 
 succeeded in escaping during the recent turmoils 
 there, and arc now settled with us. I mal^e them
 
 3SO DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 work (something new to them) for their food and 
 clothes. This is a most valuable discipline. We are 
 hoeing our ground and getting the seed in. Rains 
 are plentiful so far, and I hope will continue so. With 
 so many mouths to feed, this is an important matter. 
 I value much your advice as to training the best of 
 our converts as evangelists. Hitherto it was penal 
 for Baganda to leave their native country. Now I 
 fear the most of the Christians there have had to flee 
 for their lives, before the Mohammedan ascendency. 
 Those who have come here Gordon and I are doing 
 our best to teach. They are eager to learn, and quite 
 exemplary in their conduct. We do hope that, one 
 day, the Lord v/ill use them as teachers of their fel- 
 low-countrymen when the way opens for their return. 
 Some of them are very good readers, and will prove 
 a great help in translation work. I think I told you 
 that I am rc-writing St. John's Gospel — some of which 
 is more difficult than Matthew, I much enjoy giving 
 them their daily instruction in the Scriptures, as the 
 language is now familiar to me, and the work so 
 encouraging. It is quite a relief from the toil of 
 secular duties which meantime occupy so much of my 
 time. Already Gordon's presence is of much help to 
 me ; but the secular duties must be done, and there 
 is no one here to relieve me of them." 
 
 " USAMBIRO, /(?;/. 26///, 18S9. 
 " Even here we have some cause for alarm. Per- 
 haps you remember the name of an Arab — Ali bin
 
 AN ARAB'S TREACHERY. 391 
 
 Sultan — who gave nic mucli trouble in Uganda by his 
 intrigues. I reported his behaviour to the Consulate 
 General, so when Ali went to the coast he was sum- 
 moned before the Sultan. Colonel Euan Smith wrote 
 me : * The Sultan and I have given him such a 
 frightening that he is not likely to try such games 
 again.' That was, of course, before the war at the 
 coast began. Ali has now been many months at 
 Unyanyembe, but recently sent to Roma (our king), 
 begging leave to pass this way on his road to 
 Uganda. Roma would doubtless agree, hoping to 
 get a good haul of tribute out of the Arab's caravan, 
 but I have sent to Roma to inform him that I have 
 heard the reason of the Arab's wishing to come this 
 way (a road no Arab has ever come before), viz., to 
 attempt treachery against Gordon and myself. My 
 messengers have not }'ct returned from Roma's 
 capital, but I scarcely expect that Roma, even for 
 the sake of considerable bribes from the Arab, will 
 turn against me. We are in God's hands, and He 
 has never yet allowed these Arabs to prevail entirely 
 with the natives against us." 
 
 ". March 2\st, 1SS9. 
 
 "You know that wc mean (D.V.) to build a steam 
 launch, for facilitating communication on the Lake, 
 on the shores of which we hope to establish several 
 stations. 
 
 "I have just received some seventy loads of rivets, 
 fittings, rope, paint, etc., for this vessel, for which I
 
 392 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 am collecting the needed timber. Some time ago I 
 wrote you of my felling trees in the forest some ten 
 to twenty miles distant. The problem then was 
 to have these conveyed to this station. I found that 
 the logs were too heavy cither to drag or to have 
 carried by all the men I could muster. I therefore 
 set to work and made a strong four-wheeled wagon 
 with which to fetch the logs entire here. This has 
 proved quite a success, and already we have dragged 
 a log weighing a ton and a half to this place with no 
 difficulty. It is the first wheeled vehicle ever seen in 
 this region since the world began, with the exception 
 of an iron wheelbarrow which was used by De Les- 
 seps in the construction of the Suez Canal. General 
 Gordon had got it conveyed to the Equatorial 
 Soudan, and Dr. Junker brought it to Uganda, and I 
 had it shipped over here. This wheelbarrow has 
 proved a marvel to the natives ; but the case with 
 which our wagon rolls along, with a large log on the 
 top of it, is a far greater wonder still. 
 
 " Gordon is still with me, and a great help in the 
 teaching. Our pupils from Uganda are behaving 
 very well. I read with them for an hour or two every 
 evening, and more on Sundays. This profits them, 
 and keeps m}'self from forgetting Luganda ; so that 
 when my assistant Fraser comes, and relieves me of 
 much of the secular work, I shall be able to resume 
 my work of translating the Scriptures into the lan- 
 guage. Meantime I have to lay that work aside. 
 
 "Many thank's for the tin case you kindly sent me,
 
 IJV THE DRIPPING FOREST. 393 
 
 containing much that I highly value. The cups and 
 saucers, etc., all unbroken ! and the books will all be 
 a great pleasure to me to read ; but most of all I value 
 the ' ]\Iissionary Review of the World.' It is an ex- 
 cellent publication. Please send it to me regularl}'." 
 
 " USAMBIRO, June "Jth, 1SS9. 
 
 Ht 'i= ^ * 
 
 *' Here we are fortunately some distance off from 
 Arabs, but those at Magu sent to Kalema, the king 
 of Uganda, and got him to send a message to Roma, 
 demanding him to expel us from here. Roma, how- 
 ever, replied that ' this country is his, and not part 
 of Uganda, and he would no more think of driving 
 us away than of expelling his own sons.' 
 
 " The month of April I spent in the forest with a 
 gang of labourers, felling trees and dressing them for 
 sawing, and transporting them by our own made 
 wagon to convenient centres. It was very wet, being 
 the rainiest month in the year, and the long dripping 
 grass, six feet high, was often very unpleasant. 
 Finally I had to give up, as the ground got too soft 
 for the wheels ; but the dry season has now set in, 
 and I hope soon to return. IMeantime, I am having 
 a strong stockade made all round the Mission pre- 
 mises. Recently we have had much trouble with 
 a leopard, which day after day broke into our 
 goats' house at night, and made terrible havoc among 
 our goats and calves. Altogether, it killed thirty 
 sheep and goats. We strengthened the building .so
 
 394 DRlVEISr OUT. 
 
 that it could no more break through, and afterwards 
 we built a huge trap, by which last night we captured 
 the brute, and to-day we have stretched his skin in 
 the sun to dry. . . . 
 
 "You ask me if I could enjoy a romp with the 
 children. I believe I could, if I were with you and 
 could bring myself for a time to forget the miseries 
 of Africa. But I fear I have become very morose, 
 though I do enjoy having black children about me 
 every day. I am generally friends with the children 
 everywhere, although in some villages they are terri- 
 fied and run from me — just as children in England 
 would be terrified at a black man. All this fear 
 abates after a time, and we are on the best of terms. 
 
 " I have enjoyed more than I can say Cook's 
 ' Monday Lectures,' of which you sent me most 
 kindly three volumes. They are indeed admirable, 
 and I have learned much from them. I shall ever be 
 grateful to you for this most valuable gift. I have 
 read recently, with much interest, two other books I 
 got from England by last caravan — ' Future Retri- 
 bution,' by Prebendary Row, and ' Christianity, Is- 
 lam, and the Negro Race,' by Dr. BIyden, himself a 
 negro, president of a College in Liberia, and a most 
 remarkable man. 
 
 "Almost every day I get a {q.\v hours at transla- 
 tional work ; the Gospel of St. John I am just now 
 at. It is really far more difficult than I imagined. 
 In the evenings I read with our more advanced 
 pupils, who are making satisfactory progress. I have
 
 ins BRETHREN liV DAXGER. 3c 5 
 
 also always some work in hand in iron and wood, or 
 building in brick". Just now 1 am busy riveting to- 
 gether our boiler, which I mean to use with the steam 
 engine (intended ultimately for our boat), to saw up 
 the logs I have been felling in the forest. But I 
 need not weary you with details of my every-day toil. 
 In this part of the world, where appliances are few, 
 one has to contrive odd methods of doing what in 
 England you have only to order and pay for, and it is 
 done at once." 
 
 " E. USAMBIRO, "^th June, 1SS9. 
 " I have begged Walker and Deekes to come back 
 here, as I am very afraid of them where they are, 
 only a few miles from the treacherous Arabs at 
 Magu. I fear, too, for our brethren remaining down 
 country — one at Mamboya, one at Mpwapwa, and one 
 at Kisokwe. I am writing to them also to come up 
 here, as they are too near danger where they are. I 
 fear they will be unwilling to come, but I think that 
 if they are wise they will do so. These Arabs at the 
 coast are more like brigands ; and likx to capture 
 defenceless white men, for whom they receive a heavy 
 ransom. One German — Dr. Meyers — they made a 
 prisoner at Pangani, and put him in the slave chain, 
 making him work like a slave. He ransomed him- 
 self for £\,Q,oo, besides having to pay £200 more to 
 a Hindu to advance the money. You will have heard 
 of the German Catholic missionaries whom they 
 seized at Dar-es-Salaam (2 frcres and one sister). Eor
 
 395 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 these they demand 6,000 rupees, besides the release 
 of all the Arab slavers captured by the Germans. 
 They had already killed three of the German mission- 
 aries, and more recently they massacred an English 
 missionary — Brooks, of the L.M.S., near the coast. 
 He was on his way home. 
 
 " I have little news here, except wretched wars in 
 the neighbourhood. Happily, we are in peace here, 
 and I hope for long. Our chief, Makolo, has been 
 laid up for months, and has been killing people who 
 he fancies bewitched him. We succeeded in saving 
 the life of one poor man whom they were dragging to 
 execution. The others we were too late in hearing 
 of. They were killed before we arrived at the place. 
 Poor deluded heathen, they find out who are sorcerers 
 by examining the entrails of a fowl. Ikit it is not so 
 long since they used to accuse people of witchcraft in 
 Christian Scotland, and burn them on the Calton hill." 
 
 " USAMBIRO, yd Oct., 1 889. 
 
 "On 2nd Sept. I sent a icw; lines to Ventnor. On 
 that occasion I mentioned the arrival here of I\Ir. 
 Stanley, Emin Pasha, and several other Europeans. 
 
 " After resting at this station for nearly three weeks, 
 they resumed their march to the coast. Only a few 
 days after starting, the natives opposed their pro- 
 gress, and they seem to have had to fight for their 
 lives. How they have fared since, I cannot tell, only 
 I hear rumours of their having had to fight again 
 further on.
 
 DISTINGUISHED GUESTS. 
 
 " 1 can assure you it was an agreeable change to 
 me, to see nearly a dozen white faces all at once, and 
 to enjoy for twenty days the pleasant company of 
 gentlemen — mostly English. 
 
 " Gordon and Walker had only started for Sesse 
 the day before Mr. Stanley arrived; and although I 
 sent quickl)' to recall them that they might hear the 
 news from the Soudan, my messengers failed to oxer- 
 take them. 
 
 " I must say that I much enjoyed Mr. Stanle}-'s 
 company during his short stay here. He is some- 
 times unsparing in his criticisms on men and their 
 actions ; but being a man of strong resolution, he 
 naturally has little patience with feebleness or vacil- 
 lation in others. He is a man of an iron will ai'id 
 sound judgment, and besides is most patient with the 
 natives. He never allows any one of his followers 
 to oppress or even insult a native. If he has had 
 occasionally to use force in order to effect a passage, 
 I am certain that he only resorted to arms when all 
 other means failed. I much fear that those who con- 
 demn him most know him least, nor do they probably 
 know anything at all of the difficulties of African 
 travel. 
 
 " His officers show a fine spirit of prompt and 
 cheerful obedience to orders. Their eagerness to 
 execute at a moment's notice every wish of their 
 leader speaks highly for them, and is no doubt the 
 secret of the success pf this most arduous under- 
 taking.
 
 398 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 " I am very sorry that no mail came from the 
 coast during the stay of the travellers here, as they 
 have been without almost any letters from Europe 
 since they started, nearly three years ago. Many 
 letters for them, as well as boxes of clothing, etc., for 
 Emin Pasha did come up country last year, and were 
 forwarded to Uganda, where all were destroyed when 
 the Mission there was looted. Happily I had de- 
 tained here some later mails, but nothing later than 
 this time last j-ear ; but even these were some com- 
 fort to the weary travellers. We ourselves also have 
 had no papers or magazines for a whole year, owing 
 to the war at the coast ; but I tried to make up for 
 this deficiency by reading aloud to Mr. Stanley and 
 the others every allusion to his expedition in your 
 letters, and in those from Ventnor. All were much 
 amused at the rare surmises in England regarding 
 the fate of the Expedition. 
 
 " I did what little I could in the way of feeding and 
 clothing the half-starved and half-clad ofiiicers and 
 others. I only hope that they found themselves, 
 on leaving this place, in greater bodily comfort than 
 they enjoyed when they arrived." 
 
 " USAMBIRO, Dec. i6t/i, 1S89 
 "At last, after many months of expectation, a 
 whole budget of your valuable letters has arrived. 
 In Africa we are like the London poor : we have either 
 a feast or a fast. But not a single newspaper or maga- 
 az.ine yet to hand, so that I cannot thank you as I
 
 AFRICANS ARE GREAT IMITATORS. 399 
 
 would for the many good things in that way which 
 you have, from time to time, sent me. One day soon 
 these will all come — a cart-load of them — and then 
 you must expect me to write little, for I shall have 
 so much to read. 
 
 " I have seen a most favourable review of Ashe's 
 book in the C.M.S. Intelligencer, which was kindly 
 sent us a look of from Kisokwe, by Wood. I hope 
 )-ou like the worlc, and that it has given }-ou a fairly 
 good idea of life and work in this region. I know it 
 is next to impossible for you to full}' realize the sort 
 of world we live in here ; just as these natives can 
 never form a just conception of life in England. 
 Perhaps they even can form a somewhat truer fancy 
 of English ways than English people can form of 
 their ways, for they closely observe us daily and 
 hourly, and see how we go in and out, how we eat 
 and drink and clothe ourselves. They see us with 
 houses and chairs and tables, and books and lamps, 
 and many other things European. But you have no 
 black men before your eyes, nor if you had, would 
 you likely see them living as Africans do in their own 
 land. We do not as a rule ape the African here, but 
 the African in Europe is pretty certain to ape the 
 white man. Imitation is often the truest form of 
 flattery. 
 
 Alas ! for those poor people who live to eat, and 
 call themselves Christians, while all their thoughts 
 are absorbed in pleasing self. Like Dives, they fare 
 sumptuously every day, but cast never a thought
 
 400 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 0:1 the millions of starving Lazaruses who lie near 
 their gates full of sores. It will all be required of 
 them one day. Their pushing their iniquitous whisky 
 traffic at the ends of the earth is also only for their 
 own greed of gain. Such mighty graves of hypocrisy 
 must be unearthed by God's faithful servants ; and 
 then ill-gotten gain will hide its face in shame, and 
 mayhap repent. * But it is easier for a camel,' etc. 
 
 " The charter of the new East African Company 
 forbids the importation of drink and gunpowder. 
 That is a fact of great moment ; and I am most 
 glad to hear of the new South African Company 
 being chartered on the same lines. May God's richest 
 blessing rest on every effort made in that direction. 
 
 "The report of Stanley being in Uyui on the east 
 side of the lake, and of the Pasha being in Kavirondo, 
 was entirely fabulous. What would not all your 
 sages of the reading public have given to know, what 
 Deekes and I alone knew — where and how Stanley 
 and his expedition were, when they were here } I wrote 
 you all about them in my last two despatches, and 
 now you will know more than I do, for by this time 
 they must have reached the coast. I heard from Mr. 
 Stanley last when he was in Ugogo. I think he, and 
 his officers, and the Pasha enjoyed their three weeks' 
 stay here. I could use no ceremony with them, and 
 simply gave them plain food — * family broth ' — and 
 plenty of it. Rags, it is true, most of them were in ; 
 but I hope they left a little better provided in that 
 way than they arrived. Only a little, mind, not
 
 THE ''BRITISH WEEKLY." 4CI 
 
 ir.uch ; for so great a number of Europeans at once 
 coming on a new station, when I had not much in the 
 way of supph'es, meant very httle rch'cf for each in- 
 dividually. You must remember that 1 had left most 
 of m.y private effects in Uganda, and these were all 
 lost there, while Walker and Gordon arrived here 
 with nothing, and had to be provided with necessaries. 
 They had only started back for Uganda the day 
 before the Stanley Expedition came here. 
 
 " Many thanks for the cuttings from the British 
 Weekly and other papers. I am so glad you sent me 
 these enclosures in your letters, as no newspapers 
 have reached me since early in October, 1888 (four- 
 teen months since). Many of our letters have been 
 stolen, and those that did arrive were secreted some- 
 times in a bale of cotton, sometimes in a bag of 
 meal ! You have told me much about the British 
 Weekly, and I am looking forward to perusing them 
 with interest when they come — a whole pile — one 
 day. The editor is my old fellow-student — William 
 Robertson Nicoll. 
 
 "I have read two books by Meyer, of Regent'.s 
 Park — ' Israel' and ' Elijah.' Both are excellent. I 
 believe he has been writing on Abraham also, but I 
 do not know if the sermons are published in book form. 
 These grand old heroes are well worth careful stud}', 
 for human nature is always very much the same, and 
 it is the same stuff, too, which makes some men in all 
 ages shine above their fellows. Of one thing I feel 
 sure, nothing could be better for rousing the spiritual 
 
 A. M. M. 26
 
 402 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 life of a congregation, and leading it on to higher life, 
 
 than the cultivating of the spirit of Missions. The 
 progress of the kingdom of God in the world is a 
 study well calculated to enlarge the mind and soul, 
 and rescue torpid congregations from their self- 
 satisfied ease. What a power for good would be our 
 home millions of Christians, if really alive to their 
 privilege and duty in helping forward the work of 
 God in all lands ! 
 
 "You will not be astonished to hear, after what I 
 told you in my last, that Mwanga is once more king 
 of Uganda. An old pupil of mine, Kagera Apollo, is 
 now appointed Katikiro, All the other chieftainships 
 have been equally divided between the Protestants 
 and Roman Catholics. Mwanga was carried with 
 great rejoicing to his old capital Mengo, exactly a 
 year after the Christians had been expelled by the 
 Arab party. The whole land has been the scene of 
 fighting and bloodshed for a twelvemonth ; and of 
 course nothing was done to cultivation, so that on all 
 sides there is much hunger. I believe our people 
 mean to keep a firm control over Mwanga, tb.at he 
 may not break out again into his former fits of cruelty 
 and oppression. I have been trying to foster this a« 
 much as possible, as a limited constitution is the best 
 guarantee for peace and liberty. Pcrc Lourdul, on the 
 other hand, bids his pupils leave Mwanga a free rein, 
 while he personally will try to control him ! Rouia 
 semper eadeiii. We shall see who will win the day. 
 History repeats itself, and history is on my side.
 
 STANLEY iVEE TS MA CKA Y. 403 
 
 PriesL-riddcii Icings have lost their heads before now. 
 Only King Mwanga is more hkely to adopt the tac- 
 tics of Henry VIIL, and show this miniature Wolscy 
 
 right about. 
 
 ' Oil, how wretched 
 Is that poor man that hangs on princes' favours !' 
 
 "Our reinforcements of last }-ear seem to have 
 mostly stuck for good at Mombasa, while some have 
 returned to England, and we have no word of more 
 being sent us. On the other hand, the Papists are 
 throwing a large force of priests into Uganda, and 
 will now strain every nerve to win the land for Rome. 
 I sometimes wish I were there to stir up our people 
 to stand for God's word and liberty, and save their 
 country from the yoke of Popery. But I am, mean- 
 time, a fixture here, and can only work by counselling 
 Walker and Gordon, and such of our elders and 
 others as come here occasionally. Now is a weighty 
 crisis, and great tact and diligence will be required to 
 establish the right." 
 
 We here quote Dr. H. ]\I. Stanley's description of 
 the mission station at Usambiro, '' In Darkest Africa," 
 Vol. II. p. 386. 
 
 " Th.c next day, having already sent messengers 
 ihcad, that we might not take Mr. IMackay, of the 
 Church Missionary Society, by surprise, we arrived 
 in view of the English INIission, which was built in the 
 middle of what appeared to be no better than a grey
 
 '404 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 \vaste, on ground gently sloping from curious heaps 
 of big boulders, or enormous blocks thrown higgledy- 
 piggledy to the height of a respectable hill, down to 
 a marshy flat green with its dense crop of pap}rus, 
 beyond which we saw a gleam of a line of water, 
 produced from an inlet of the Victoria Nyanza. We 
 were approaching the mission by a wagon track, and 
 presently we came to the wagon itself, a simple thing 
 on wooden wheels, for carrying timber for building. 
 There was not a green thing in view, except in the 
 marsh ; grass all dead, trees either shrunk, withered, 
 or dead, at least there was not the promise of a bud 
 anywhere, which was of course entirely due to the 
 dry season. When we were about half a mile off, a 
 gentleman of small stature, with a rich brown beard 
 and brown hair, dressed in white linen and a grey 
 Tyrolese hat, advanced to meet us. 
 
 " * And so you are Mr. Mackay ? Mwanga did not 
 get you then, this time } What experiences you 
 must have had with that man ! But you look so 
 well, one would say you had been to England 
 lately.' 
 
 " ' Oh, no ; this is my twelfth ^ year. Mwanga per- 
 mitted me to leave, and the Rev. Cyril Gordon took 
 my place ; but not for long, since they were all shortly 
 after expelled from Uganda.' 
 
 " Talking thus, we entered the circle of tall poles, 
 
 ' IMackay arrived in Africa in P.Iay, 1S76, so tliat it was 
 Vcally Ills fourteenth year.
 
 WHAT ST.^A'LEV SAW. 405 
 
 within which the mission station was built. There 
 were signs of labour, and constant unwearying 
 patience, sweating under a hot sun, a steadfast deter- 
 mination to do something to keep the mind empIo}-ed, 
 and never let idleness fmd them with folded hands 
 brooding over the unloveliness, lest despair might 
 seize them, and cause them to avail themselves of the 
 speediest means of ending their misery. There wa-; 
 a big, solid workshop in the yard, filled with machinery 
 and tools, a launch's boiler was being prepared by 
 the blacksmiths, a big canoe was outside repairing ; 
 there were sawpits and large logs of hard timber ; 
 there were great stacks of palisade poles ; in a corner 
 of an outer yard was a cattle-fold and a goat-pen, 
 fowls by the score pecked at microscopic grains ; and 
 out of the European quarter there trooped out a 
 number of little boys and big boys, looking uncom- 
 monly sleek and happy ; and quiet labourers came 
 up to bid us, with hats off, ' Good morning ! ' 
 
 " Now, if there is anything on God's earth better 
 calculated than work to make men happy, it must be 
 with some peculiar dispositions the knowledge that 
 their work is ended. Hence, when I entered the 
 mission-house my soul was possessed with some such 
 feeling as this; at any rate, before my mission was 
 terminated, the welcome we received promised rest 
 and relief. 
 
 "I was ushered into the room of a substantial clay 
 structure, the walls about two feet thick, evenly 
 plastered, and garnished with missionary pictures
 
 406 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 and placards. There were four separate ranges of 
 shelves filled with choice, useful books. * Allah ho 
 Akbar,' replied Hassan, his Zanzibar! head-man, to 
 me; ' boolcs ! Maclcay has thousands of books; in 
 the dining-room, bedroom, the church, everywhere. 
 Books ! ah, loads upon loads of them ! ' And while 
 I was sipping real coffee, and eating home-made 
 bread and butter for the first time for thirty months, 
 I thoroughly sympathized with IMackay's love of 
 books. But it becomes quite clear wh}', amongst so 
 many books, and children, and outdoor work, Mackay 
 cannot find leisure to brood and become morbid, 
 and think of 'drearinesses, wildernesses, despair 
 and loneliness.' A clever writer lately wrote a book 
 about a man who spent much time in Africa, which 
 from beginning to end is a long-drawn wail. It 
 would have cured both writer and hero of all moping 
 to have seen the manner of Mackay 's life. He has 
 no time to fret and groan and weep ; and God knows, 
 if ever man had reason to think of 'graves and worms 
 and oblivion,' and to be doleful and lonely and sad, 
 Mackay had, when, after murdering his bishop, and 
 burning his pupils, and strangling his converts, and 
 clubbing to death his dark friends, Mwanga turned 
 his eye of death on him. And yet the little man met 
 it with calm blue eyes that never winked. To see 
 one man of this kind, working day after day for 
 twelve years bravely, and without a syllable of com- 
 plaint or a moan amid the ' wildernesses,' and to hear 
 him lead his little flock to show for:h God's loving
 
 STANLEY'S ADDRESS TO THE CATS. COMMITTEE. 407 
 
 kindness in the morning, and His faithfulness every 
 night, is worth going a long journey for the moral 
 courage and contentment that one derives from it. 
 
 "We stayed at the mission-station from the 2Sth 
 of August to the morning of the 17th of September ; 
 and on the Europeans of the expedition the effect of 
 regular diet and well-cooked food, of amiable society 
 and perfect rcstfulness, was marvellous. 
 
 * ^- t- * -^• 
 
 " To my great grief, I learn that Mr. Mackay, the 
 best missionary since Livingstone, died about the 
 beginning of Februar}'. Like Livingstone he declined 
 to return, though I strongly urged him to accompany 
 us to the coast." 
 
 The committee of the Church ^Missionary Society 
 received Dr. Stanley on July ist, when, he thus de- 
 scribed his intercourse with some of the Christians of 
 Uganda. This, it must be remembered, was some 
 weeks before he reached Mackay's station. He was 
 marching through a country called Ankoli, where a 
 large body of Christians had taken refuge when 
 driven out of Uganda by the Mohammedans in 180S ; 
 but he knew nothing of this: — 
 
 "On arriving in Ankoli, as I expected, v.^e met the 
 Waganda. They gave a different account of Uganda 
 from what we had anticipated. Ankoli was supposed 
 to be tributary to Uganda ; but at the fall of Mwanga, 
 Ankoli became scmi-indepcndcnt, and of course some
 
 408 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 of the Christians of Uganda fled there ; and soon afier 
 our arrival in that country — the corner of which, by- 
 the-bye, reaches down to the Albert Edward Lake— 
 the news was carried to the capital that there were a 
 number of white men in large force coming. After 
 we reached the plateau, the Waganda came in. They 
 were a nice, cleanly dressed, sober, and independent 
 people. They had been on our path, and had found 
 on the road one of our haversacks filled with ammu- 
 nition, powder, and percussion caps. They brought 
 it up to me, and said who they were. They were 
 Samuel and Zachariah, of the Protestant INIission of 
 Uganda. And they laid their bag at my feet, and 
 when I examined it I found it contained ammunition, 
 a property which is very valuable there. Well, now 
 I had it by my chair, and while I was in conversation 
 a Mussulman slipped his fingers there and snatched 
 it away, and I never saw it more. That Mussulman 
 belonged to my force, and I was so ashamed of it 
 that I did not mention to the visitors what had be- 
 come of it. But in the evening they came to see me. 
 They were very diplomatic ; and then, after shutting 
 the door, they told us the wonderful story of the de- 
 position of Mwanga, and the growth of the Christian 
 Mission. I should have liked nothing better than to 
 have had one of these two men in London, to have 
 told it in their own Suahili, and to have got some 
 interpreter to interpret sentence after sentence. It 
 was most graphic, most beautiful. Of course I have 
 only given the sense of what tliey said. They stayed
 
 BAG AND A READING THE SCRIPTL'RES. 400 
 
 with US for three or four days, and then they de- 
 parted. But they came ag^ain in two or three days 
 with Alexander, Prince of Ankoli, and through their 
 assistance we were enabled to get the whole of 
 Ankoli to become a part and parcel of British East 
 Africa, 
 
 " Now I noticed that as soon as they left my pre- 
 sence, they went to their own little huts, and took out 
 little books that they had in their pockets in their 
 skirts. And one day I called Samuel to me and 
 asked, ' What book is that that }'0U have ? I did not 
 know that Waganda read books.' And that was the 
 first time I knew they had the Gospel in Luganda. 
 Then I took greater interest, for I found that almost 
 every one of the party had a small pamphlet in Lu- 
 ganda — prayers, and the Gospel of IMatthew, and, I 
 think, of Luke. I remember very well seeing the 
 word Mathaio, or Matthew, on the top of the book — 
 on its title-page. I noticed that after the Conference, 
 where the princes and leaders of Ankoli ceded their 
 country, they retired to their huts and threw them- 
 selves upon the ground, and took out the books and 
 began to read them ; and they gathered together and 
 began to talk. And the question was asked me by 
 one of them, with a sort of deprecating smile, ' Are 
 all white men Christians.'"' That was more than I 
 could venture to sa}-, though ' I hoped,' of course, 
 'they were.' Then he put a point-blank question to 
 me, and said, ' Are you a Christian .'' ' Then I asked 
 Jiiin, ' Do you consider yourself a Christian .' ' 'Of
 
 4IO DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 course I do,' he replied. * How long have you been 
 a Christian ? ' ' Well,' he said, 'I am one of Mackny's 
 pupils, and learnt from him ; and this book was given 
 to me, and to every one of us. There are about 2,500 
 of us, all belonging to Mackay's Mission.' Now of 
 course what was told to us was told to all the officers 
 alike, and each of us could form our own impressions. 
 Of course I had had impressions of Waganda from 
 my former connection. I knew they were very in- 
 telligent and diplomatic. I knew that in 1S75 spies 
 were in my camp every day for the purpose of fur- 
 nishing a list of the treasures I had to Mtesa, in order 
 that Mtesa might ask the next day, ' Stanley, have 
 not you got such and such a thing.'*' So tliat I was 
 \-ery, very careful, as you might imagine. Neverthe- 
 less, the meeting and parting were conducted on such 
 very nice principles, and we parted very good friends, 
 and, as I say, we kept our own impressions. Four of 
 these Christians followed us ; three to go to the coast, 
 and one to go to Mackay. 
 
 "Arriving at Mackay's place, of course what we 
 lacked in information he could fill in, and he could 
 supply such information as we had forgotten, 
 perhaps, or had omitted to ask. However, we 
 found that the statements of Samuel and Zachariah 
 were corroborated by Macka}', and he had a party of 
 about twenty-five Waganda, who had been pleased 
 to follow him in preference to settling in Ankoli. 
 The young boy who accompanied us also joined the 
 band, and the three Waganda Christians followed us
 
 STANLEY'S FAITH IN UGANDA. 4:1 
 
 to Zanzibar, and then to Mombasa, where they are 
 to-da)', probably with the idea of going through 
 British East Africa to Uganda back again." 
 
 After a pause, Dr. Stanley resumed : — 
 
 "I think- I may as well tell you that I have just the 
 same faith in Uganda as I had in 1S76. I am per- 
 fectly convinced there is no more desirable locality 
 or country in Africa than Uganda. I admire the 
 people immensely ; they are cleanly, they are most 
 intelligent, they are al\va}-s decent. They are full of 
 traditions of their country, and they arc just tlie 
 material where one would expect Africans to become 
 good, thorough, earnest, enthusiastic Christians. 
 Now if it were possible to make Uganda all Pro- 
 testant, it would be very much better for the peace 
 of the surrounding country. Why, I should say that 
 in a few years from now }-ou would get any number 
 of Waganda priests, after being ordained and all 
 that, to begin spreading the Word to Unyoro and 
 Usogo and Kavirondo, and the north-east of Lake 
 Victoria, because they understand the language. 
 And they are well adapted for it ; they are eloquent, 
 they feel deeply, they are an emotional kind of 
 people, and they are just the people to remember 
 what they are taught. 
 
 " Another fact is, that you could not desire any 
 better experiences than those of the Mission in 
 Uganda, during the da\'s of the persecution, when 
 the converts were seized to be [uit to death, to be
 
 412 DRJVE.V our. 
 
 massacred, and clubbed, or to be given away to the 
 Arabs as slaves — such fortitude, such bravery, such 
 courage ! It is unexampled in the whole history of 
 Africa. The more I heard the story of Zachariah 
 and Samuel and others, looking at their cleanly faces, 
 hearing them tell the story of how they endured the 
 persecutions of Mwanga, I was carried back to the 
 days of Nero and Caligula, how they persecuted the 
 Christians at Rome; just the fortitude I had read in 
 books of the martyrs of the early Chuich. Really 
 there were instances here of equal courage, of equal 
 faith, of equal devotion to the cause they had em- 
 braced. And I think the future of that country will 
 be a very bright one indeed.^ 
 
 ' "The success of the Mission to Nyanza is proved by the 
 sacrifices of the converts, by their determined resistance to the 
 tyrant, by their successful deposition of him. I have read some- 
 where that the recognition of beihgerents is not permissiljle 
 until it is proved that they can hold their own. If this be so, 
 the Waganda converts have proved that the Mission was a 
 success, and a most remarkable success. The missionaries 
 were compelled to bore deep down, and after that the element 
 sprang up spontaneously. After years of baffling and unpro- 
 mising work the converts flocked spontaneously to the new 
 Church of Equatorial Africa. Princes and peasants, chiefs and 
 warriors, came forward to be instructed in the Christian reli- 
 gion, and to be taught the arts of reading and writing, and to 
 be tlie proud possessors of printed books in their own language, 
 treating of the Author of salvation and His sufferings on behalf 
 of humanity. 
 
 " The progress of this religion became alarming to the Mo- 
 hammedans and their native sympathizers ; but it was not until 
 the death of the politic Mtesa that they could venture upon any
 
 A RAILIVAY TO UGANDA. 413 
 
 " What little we have endeavoured to do promises 
 well for the future. I suppose that the railway will 
 be down there in five years, and that Uganda will be 
 
 plan to thwait its growth. The accession vi a fao) -prince to 
 the throne, and the vices, banghi-smoking, drunkenness, and 
 licentiousness, disclosed the means whereby the Christians 
 might be suppressed ; and the Moslems, with a low, mean 
 craftiness, and charged with concentrated malice, were not slow 
 to avail themselves of their opportunities. The young king, 
 despite the reputable character the whites had won from all 
 classes of the people, now regarded them with thoughts foully 
 perverted by unmeasured slander. To his distorted view the 
 missionaries were men banded together for the undermining of 
 his authority, for sapping the affections and loyalty of his sub- 
 jects, and for presently occupying the whole of Uganda. These 
 various expeditions, which, as every one knew, were roaming 
 over the country, now in Masai-land, pi-esently in Usoga, then 
 again in Usukuma and Unyamwezi, the quarrels on the coast 
 between Seyid Burgash and the Germans, the presence of ward- 
 ships at Zanzibar, the little colonies of Germans studding the 
 coast-lands — what else could all these movements aim at but 
 the forcible conquest of Africa.'' Hence an era of persecution 
 was initiated by the order to burn and slay ; hence the ait/o- 
 da-fe in Uganda, the murder of Bishop Hannington and the 
 massacre of his caravan in Usoga, the doom that ever seemed 
 to be imminent over the head of the faithful and patient 
 Mackay, and the menaced suspension of mission work. When 
 the Christians had scattered into their hiding-places, and the 
 jealousy of the Moslems had cooled, the young king merged 
 into an intolerable despot, and murdered indiscriminately. 
 Many an eminent person in the land fell a victim to his sus- 
 picions, and was ordered to be either clubbed to death or 
 strangled. It was then the Mohammedans, fearing for their 
 own lives, solicited the aid of the Christians, and the tyrant was 
 compelled to flee the kingdom to find leisure to repent during 
 his lake voyages, and finally to submit to be baptized." — In 
 Darkeit Ajrica.
 
 414 DRIVEN OUT. 
 
 connected wiih the sea ; and I am quite sure the time 
 will come when very many will seek those tropical 
 paradises of Uganda simply for the pleasure of 
 seeing such a nice country and its interesting people, 
 made still more interesting by the religion they pro- 
 fess. Now that IMwanga has become a Christian, 
 there is no reason in the world, — seeing, too, that all 
 the principal officers of state are Christians, — why 
 you should not be able to have converts at the rate 
 of 5,000 or 6,000 a year. Only it must be kept up. 
 I remember very well what Samuel and Zachariah 
 asked, 'Do you think our white friends will help us 
 if we only show them we are men .''' I said, ' I really 
 cannot tell you, because the last time I heard any- 
 thing about Mwanga he had murdered the Bishop. I 
 do not therefore know what the impression will be 
 now. I do not know the truth of the whole stor\', 
 but I suppose I shall hear as I go to the sea ; but 
 whatever I may be able to say, I will say it, and say 
 it kindly, and I have not the slightest doubt that if 
 they believe in what I tell them they will help you to 
 the best of their ability.' And tliey said, ' We will 
 pray to God.' 
 
 " Now you must understand that these people's 
 church is only a very common hut, roofed with straw, \ 
 and sides made of mud. At the same time it is a 
 church ; and these people, when they go in and hear 
 ihe voice of the preacher, I assure you, feel it just as 
 much as though they stood under the dome of St< 
 i'aul's or at Westminster."
 
 MISSION TO MOHAMMEDANS.
 
 "Massudi and others asserted that in Muscat and Zanzibar 
 we had no men who taught rehgion, that we only planted a 
 Consul and hoisted a flag, by way of taking a sort of possessioii 
 in such places." — Mackay^ Dec. ^yd, 1S79. 
 
 " Do Christians understand the solemn nature of the crisis 
 which is now upon us in Africa ? Within the decade or two 
 will be virtually decided the question, Shall Islam rule Africa? 
 Unless the Church arouses itself to more earnest activity, and 
 to more generous endeavour, that question will answer itself in 
 the affirmative. The last great struggle between Islam and 
 Christianity will be over the possession and domination of 
 Central Africa." — Regions Beyond., July, 1890.
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 MISSION TO MOHAMMEDANS. 
 
 MACKAY'S tolerant spirit and fair-mindedness 
 towards all who differed from him, and his 
 willingness to acknowledge all the good he could 
 find amidst much evil, have been considered by some 
 people as virtually an approval of Mohammedanism 
 as a creed and a system, and a justification of some 
 harsh criticisms which have recently appeared against 
 missionary societies and their methods of prosecuting 
 their work. 
 
 But with this generous acknowledgment of what- 
 ever good he could see either in the creed or life of 
 Mohammedans, he deeply deplored the glaring de- 
 fects and vices and cruelties associated with the 
 system. 
 
 In the following article he earnestly pleads for a 
 special Christian ^lission to be planted at Muscat, 
 the capital of Oman, the place from which all the 
 Arabs who over-run Africa, start, and which they 
 consider their home. He believed that this would 
 be one of the best possible means to counteract Mo- 
 hammedan influence in Africa. 
 
 Writing to Mr. Eugene Stock, August 8th, 1888, 
 
 A M. M. '»>7 27
 
 4iS MI SSI ON TO MOHAMMEDANS. 
 
 he says ; " I enclose a few lines on a subject which 
 has been weighing on my mind for some time. I 
 shall not be disappointed if you consign them to the 
 waste-paper basket, and shall only be too glad if, on 
 a better representation on the part of others, the 
 subject be taken up and something definite be done 
 for these poor Arabs, whom I respect, but who have 
 given me much trouble in years past. The best way 
 by which we can turn the edge of their opposition, 
 and convert their blasphemy into blessing, is to do 
 our utmost for their salvation." 
 
 The article is entitled " Muscat, Zanzibar, and 
 Central Africa " : — 
 
 "At the great Annual Meeting of the Church 
 Missionary Society, held in Exeter Hall on May ist, 
 1888, the following resolution was adopted : — 
 
 '"That this Meeting heartily endorses the action 
 of the Committee in putting forth a special appeal 
 for picked men to work amongst Mohammedans. 
 . . . While the difficulties in the way of mission- 
 ary work in lands under Mohammedan rule may well 
 appear to the eye of sense most formidable, this 
 Meeting is firmly persuaded that, so long as the door 
 of access to individual Mohammedans is open, so 
 long it is the clear and bounden duty of the Church 
 of Christ to make use of its opportunities for deliver- 
 ing the Gospel message to them ; in full expectation 
 that the power of the Holy Spirit will, in God's good 
 time, have a signal manifestation in the triumph of 
 Christianity in those lands.'
 
 ARABIA, THE CRADLE OF ISLAM. 419 
 
 " I quote only the second half of the resolution. 
 The first clause referred to the claims of our Indian 
 Empire and the Mohammedans there. That was 
 ably advocated by Sir Rivers Thompson, and will 
 doubtless never fail to have hosts of powerful sup- 
 porters in all time to come. My subject is the 
 second clause, quoted above, which was taken up 
 by the Rev. Dr. Bruce, who gave a graphic account 
 of the work of our Society in Persia and Bagdad. 
 But the lands under Mohammedan rule are wider 
 than Persia, and include, as Dr. Bruce allowed, 
 Egypt, Turkey, Arabia, the whole of Central Asia, 
 and, let it be remembered, much of Central Africa as 
 well. 
 
 " The resolution is a remarkable one, and may well 
 be characterized as the commencement of a new era 
 in the work of the evangelization of the world. The 
 framers of it must have really meant what they 
 wrote, and it becomes us now to strike the iron while 
 it is hot, and to consider Jiozv and ivJiere a beginning 
 may best be made to put this gigantic project into 
 execution. I purposely use the word beginning', be- 
 cause the work already accomplished among Moham- 
 medans in Persia and India may be fairly regarded 
 as only preliminary experiments, which, having 
 proved a decided success, warrant us in entering 
 upon the great work itself with perfect assurance as 
 to the issue. 
 
 "Arabia is tne cradle of Islam. General Haig 
 writes : ' Out of a total coast-line of 3,900 miles,
 
 420 M/SS/OX TO MOHAMMEDANS. 
 
 only 1,500 belong to Turkey, and 2,400 to inde- 
 pendent St:ites. Probably three millions out of a 
 total of ten millions of population are the subjects 
 of Turkey ; the rest are independent.' Of late the 
 Turkish Government have been renewing their 
 hostility to Christian work to an alarming extent. 
 They have not absolutely closed the door, but their 
 present strenuous opposition naturally causes us to 
 turn our eyes towards the independent portion of 
 Arabia. 
 
 "It is the deliberate conviction of General Haig 
 that in OMAN, the capital of which is Muscat, 
 'there are important openings for the Gospel' The 
 population of the State is estimated at 1,600,000 
 {Wliitakei's Aliiiaimck, 1S88). There is good reason 
 to believe that the Government would offer no oppo- 
 sition. My latest information from the coast reports 
 the death of the Imaum, Seyid Turki ; but British 
 influence is supreme at Muscat, thanks to the efforts 
 of Colonel Miles, and it is not probable that Seyid 
 Turki's successor will venture, in his first years of 
 office at least, to thwart a judicious and unobtrusive 
 effort on our part to start a Christian Mission in his 
 capital. 
 
 "In more senses than one, Muscat is the key to 
 Central Africa. A century ago the Imaum of 
 Muscat pushed his conquests along the coast of 
 East Africa, and rescued Zanzibar from the hands 
 of the effete Portuguese power. With rare foresight 
 he fixed on the fragrant island as the doorway to
 
 MUSCAT ARABS. 4I1 
 
 Central Africa. For the last thirty years, or more, 
 Zanzibar has been independent ; but I scarcely ever 
 met an Arab there who did not look upon Muscat 
 as * home.' It is solely due to the enterprise of 
 Muscat Arabs, who, penetrating inland from Zanzi- 
 bar, with wares of Manchester manufacture, estab- 
 lished peaceful relations with hosts of native tribes, 
 that travellers first, and missionaries afterwards, have 
 found a highway into the far interior. Hindus from 
 Cutch, and Banyans from Bombay, have for centuries 
 traded on the East Coast of Africa, but they have 
 always been too timorous to venture into the interior. 
 On the other hand, I feel safe to say that, generally 
 speaking, wherever the European traveller in East 
 Africa has ventured to penetrate regions hitherto 
 unvisited by the Arab, he has found it impossible to 
 piircJiase the right of passage, and has had to either 
 fight his way or take refuge in fiight. Innumerable 
 instances of this will occur to those who have followed 
 the story of the past years — e.g., Stanley's troubles 
 when he got beyond the Arabs' furthest point in 
 Manyuema ; Thomson to the west of Tangan}M"ka ; 
 Reichard and Giraud on the Lualaba. Where the 
 Arab has travelled (I mean peacefully), the mission- 
 ary may go any day ; where the Arab has not 
 ventured, the missionary must exercise the greatest 
 caution in trying to go. 
 
 "The Arabs who sw'arm over Central Africa 
 generally hail from Muscat, or other towns in the 
 dominion of Oman. Not a few Bcluchis are to be
 
 422 MISSION TO -MOHAMMEDANS. 
 
 met with, and also natives of Shchr and Hadramaut. 
 Half-castes, born in Zanzibar and Unyanyembe, are 
 becoming now more numerous than formerly, but as 
 a rule the pure Arab belongs to Oman. He finds a 
 passage for a few dollars in a native dhow bound 
 for Zanzibar ; he has no capital to begin with, but 
 accompanies a richer friend, whom he finds fitting up 
 a caravan for the interior ; by-and-by, he makes small 
 ventures of his own, on the strength of a tusk or two 
 he may have come by on his first journey inland. If 
 successful, he will get credit to almost any extent 
 from the Indians at the coast ; and profits are such 
 that he can, after twenty years' labour, return to 
 Muscat a rich man, his ambition being to purchase 
 an estate there, dig wells, make a canal for naviga- 
 tion, and let patches for the cultivation of dates. 
 
 " Most of the Arabs whom I have found inland are, 
 I believe, Wahabis, a sect which one may call Puri- 
 tans in their way, at least Reformed or Protestant 
 Moslems. I think the experience of the generality 
 of travellers is, that the Muscat Arab in the interior 
 of Africa is a gentleman whom it is a pleasure to 
 meet among the surrounding barbarism. While he 
 is no match for the crafty Hindu trader at the coast, 
 yet he has a keen eye for business, and generally 
 contrives to take advantage of the needy European, 
 whom he invariably regards as a simpleton in busi- 
 ness matters. 
 
 "His behaviour is now, however, altering. It is 
 no longer a solitary traveller whom he meets, and
 
 The ARAB BECOME OVR ENEMY. 423 
 
 whom he prides himself in entertaining hospitably, 
 knowing that his generosity will be remembered. 
 Of late, he is becoming alive to the fact that these 
 travellers are only the forerunners of adven- 
 turers who come to compete with him in trading, 
 and of Christian missionaries whose creed he has 
 been taught to hate. It is then no wonder that we 
 find the Arab our uncompromising enemy, ready to 
 resort to the most unscrupulous means to rid the 
 country of our presence.^ 
 
 "Islam is not dead, nor is it any longer asleep. At 
 home, in Arabia, the zeal of the VVahabis may have 
 
 ' "The fast by day and the gkittony at night during this 
 nonth by no means improves the temper of these miserable 
 fanatics. It is indeed 'particularly they of the circumcision' 
 who are the most bitter enemies of the cross of Christ here as 
 in bygone days. Old Salim bin Saleh,who professes such great 
 friendship to us, and who wrote the lying letter to Mtesa re- 
 cently in Said Burgash's name, joins too in the blasphemy, 
 alleging that our Scriptures are corrupted, and that we have 
 lost the ' Book which God gave to the prophet Jesus.' Another 
 old Arab, Suliman bin Feher, who has recently come to the 
 country, makes a determined and venomous opposition to every 
 word taught in court by Mr. O'Flalierty. One day, when there 
 was not a word to be said without being belied by this Arab, 
 even in common matters relating to the outside world, Mr. 
 O'Flaherty sent out for Namkade, who was one of the deputation 
 to England, and cross-questioned him in presence of the court, 
 the answers in every case giving the lie to all the Arab's state- 
 iTients. Zanzibar was described by Namkade as being 'only a 
 flea in the Nyanza.' After tlie court came out, Suliman drew 
 his dirk at Mr. O'Flaherty, with murder in his eye, ejaculating 
 the word 'kafir' (unbeliever)." — Mackavs Journal, 15th August, 
 1S82,
 
 424 MISSION TO MOHAMMEDANS. 
 
 waxed cold, but there still remains the old desire for 
 reforin, and their ancient fanaticism is 'giving place 
 to liberal ideas, which, in truth, are far more con- 
 genial to the Arabian mind.' Although brought up 
 ' after the straitest sect of their religion,' yet most 
 of them, after spending a few years in Africa, become 
 lax indeed, indulging in spirits and tobacco (not 
 always openly), while not a few of them come to 
 believe in African charms and magic horns ; and I 
 could mention several instances in which they have 
 entirely renounced the faith of their fathers and have 
 taken to native fetichism. 
 
 "Again and again I have heard the Arabs, in trying 
 to dissuade the authorities of Uganda from tolerat- 
 ing our teaching, aver that in their country (Oman) 
 we did not venture to introduce our religion ! I have 
 been also taunted by negroes with the remark, 'Why 
 come so far to ask people to change the customs of 
 their fathers, while you neglect the Arabs and others 
 so much nearer home ? ' This stigma must be re- 
 mo\'ed. 
 
 " Our Nyanza Mission owes much to Muscat 
 Arabs, from Said l^urgash, the late Prince of 
 Zanzibar, to the humblest trader in the interior. 
 They have helped us often, and have hindered us 
 likewise. We owe them therefore a double debt, 
 which I can see no more effective way of paying, 
 than by at once establishing a strong mission at their 
 very headquarters — Muscat itself. If the most fana- 
 tical and conservative of Mussulmans can have their
 
 MUSCAT A MISSIONARY CENTRE. 425 
 
 ideas widened by travel, and are daily, before our 
 eyes, becoming more enlightened and tolerant, while 
 some of them even consent to change their creed for 
 fetichism, who shall assert that they will turn nothing 
 but a deaf ear to the Gospel of the grace of God ? I 
 do not deny that the task is difficult ; and the men 
 selected for work in Muscat must be endowed with 
 no small measure of the Spirit of Jesus, besides 
 possessing such linguistic capacity as to be able to 
 reach not only the ears, but the very hearts of men. 
 
 " Is it credible that the English Universities will 
 fail to supply us with a sufficient number of men 
 able to enter upon this work at once ? When the 
 needs of the Keith-Falconer ]\Iission were brought 
 before the Divinity Colleges in Scotland, no less than 
 five of the ablest and most devoted students (gradu- 
 ates, I believe) were found ready to take up the work. 
 The English Universities are more liberally endowed 
 with chairs of Oriental languages than those of Scot- 
 land, while, among the vastly greater number of 
 clergymen, surely half a dozen of the right stamp 
 will be found. If we resolve to make the venture 
 in faith, I doubt not but that God will send us the 
 proper men. 
 
 "The importance of Muscat, as a missionary centre 
 for work among the Arabs, can scarcely be over- 
 estimated ; but the post must be held by no feeble 
 staff. As the nature of the case precludes public 
 preaching in bazaars and evangelistic work of the 
 more ostentatious kind, attention should be con-
 
 426 MlSSJOiV TO MOHAMMEDANS. 
 
 centrated in two directions: (i) Medical, in which 
 the assistance of trained ladies will prove a powerful 
 softener of opposition ; (2) Educational, chiefly 
 with the view of training young Arabs to be mis- 
 sionaries to their fellow-countrymen. Any idea of 
 trying to introduce the teaching of English should 
 be considered entirely out of the question. From 
 the first, the staff should have the assistance of a 
 Christian native pastor from Syria, India, or other 
 Mohammedan land, one who is an approved worker 
 for Christ. Such a man, with two Europeans (cleri- 
 cal and medical), and not less than two ladies, I 
 should consider barely a sufficient staff to begin the 
 work. Admirable suggestions as to methods of pro- 
 cedure are given by General Haig, in his paper on 
 'Arabia as a Mission Field' {CM. Intelligencer, July, 
 18S7, pp. 420-21). Of great value is the ' Report of 
 the Decennial Missionary Conference ' in Calcutta, 
 held in 1882, as there we find expressed the ripened 
 experience of devoted men, representing many so- 
 cieties, who have worked among Mohammedans with 
 no small success. 
 
 "It is almost needless to say, that the outlook in 
 Africa will be considerably brightened by the estab- 
 lishment of a Mission to the Arabs in Muscat. If 
 the claims of India have a title to be considered 
 paramount, equally so have those of Muscat ; for in 
 no part of the earth, at least over no other area so 
 wide as Central Africa, have Mohammedans such 
 power for influencing the work of the C.M.S.
 
 MOHAMMEDANS IN ZANZIBAR. i,ii 
 
 " Second to Oman, the position of Zanzibar itself 
 claims attention. The Universities' Mission there is 
 doing excellent work among the freed slaves, and 
 among some of the tribes on the mainland ; but its 
 influence is scarcely felt among the Arabs, who are 
 the ruling power and the chief proprietors of the 
 land, if, indeed, any serious effort is made at all to 
 reach them. It must be remembered that in Zanzi- 
 bar there is also a large population of free negroes, 
 who owe their liberty chiefly to the British Govern- 
 ment, and who are the chief assistants of all tra- 
 vellers and missionaries who proceed inland. They 
 are generally known by the name of Waiigiuana 
 (gentlemen), and are all nominally Mohammedans. 
 I have never heard of any effort being made at the 
 coast to introduce Christianity among these ubiqui- 
 tous travellers. I have frequently suggested to them 
 the advisability of their going to the Universities' 
 Mission schools for instruction ; but they invariably 
 scout the idea, asserting that the Christian teachers 
 in Zanzibar busy themselves only with slaves rescued 
 by British cruisers. Their strong prejudice to being 
 associated with natives, still in or only just emerged 
 from slavery, must be respected in any effort made to 
 Christianize them. 
 
 "As to the Romanists, we may admire their in- 
 dustry and success in educating the slaves handed 
 over to them by the British agent, but we may look 
 in vain for any successful work done by them among 
 the Mohammedans, Arab or Negro. I am not aware
 
 pS MlSSIOiV TO MOHAMA/EDAiVS. 
 
 that they even hope for converts from that quarter. 
 I once asked the Superior of their establishment at 
 Bagamoyo if he was able to effect any good among 
 the people of the town. His answer was, 'Oh, our 
 Mission is not for them at all ; it is for the interior ! ' 
 At that time they had no stations except those on 
 the coast. 
 
 " It is generally supposed that the negotiations 
 entered into by England with Zanzibar refer only to 
 the slave-trade ; but, in fact, far more important mat- 
 ters, so far at least as Mission work is concerned, 
 have been diplomatically arranged between the two 
 countries. A 'TRr:ATY OF Friendship, Commerce, 
 .\ND Navigation ' between England and Zanzibar 
 was signed on April 30th, 18S6. It consists of 
 twenty-seven articles, mainly relative to rights and 
 tariffs, but Article XXIII. should be especially noted. 
 It runs thus : ' Subjects of the two high contracting 
 parties shall, within the dominions of each other, en- 
 joy freedom of conscience and religious toleration. 
 The free and public exercise of all forms of religion, 
 and the right to build edifices for religious worship, 
 and to organirje religions Missions of all creeds, shall 
 not be restricted or interfered xvith in any ivay zuhat- 
 soever. Missionaries, scientists, and explorers, witli 
 their followers, property and collections, shall like- 
 wise be under the especial protection of the high 
 contracting parties.' 
 
 " Here is a door of liberty thrown open ; and by 
 the terms of the resolution adopted at our last May
 
 A DOOR OPEN IN ZANZIBAR. 4:9 
 
 Meeting-, and quoted at the beginning of this paper, 
 we are bound either to take advantage of the open- 
 ing ourselves, or be assured that another Christian 
 Society will do so. The Universities' Mission has 
 failed hitherto to take sufficient advantage of the 
 liberty granted by this treaty, probably for want of 
 men and means ; but even should its operations be 
 extended so as to try to reach some of the Moham- 
 medan population, it never can alone undertake this 
 work as it ought to be done, so that there is more 
 than ample room for our Society to dedicate, at 
 least, two missionaries for work among the Arabs 
 and free blacks exclusively. This will form a valu- 
 able auxiliary, not only to the Muscat Mission, but 
 also to the whole of our work in the interior of 
 Africa. The present British Agent and Consul- 
 General in Zanzibar, Colonel Charles B. Euan-Smith, 
 is a devout Christian gentleman, and has sufficient in- 
 fluence with the new Sultan (Seyid Khalifa) to demand 
 the latter's adherence to the spirit of the treaty. 
 
 " In conclusion, let me quote the words of one of 
 our Secretaries, the Rev. W. Gray, in his earnest plea 
 for ' Missions to Mohammedans ' {C.M. Intelligcucer, 
 January, 1888): 'Let the Society (not merely the 
 Committee) face this work in real earnest. . . 
 There should be steadily kept in mind the import- 
 ance of the employment in this work of converted 
 Mohammedans themselves. . . . The great thing 
 is, that the Society's earnest attention should now be 
 given to the subject.'
 
 4jo MISSION TO MOHAMMEDANS. 
 
 "This plea goes forth, not for the Mohammedans 
 of India, as their advocates are many, but for the 
 Arab trader in Africa, whose home is either in 
 Muscat or in Zanzibar. May it now soon be said, 
 ' This day is salv^ation come to tin's house, forasmuch 
 as he also is a son of Abraham ' ! 
 
 "A. M. Mackay. 
 
 " UsAMBiRo. Central Africa, A^ignst, 1888."
 
 SLAVE RAIDING AND THE SLAVE TRADE
 
 " I bad spoken before of the unchristian nature of slavery, 
 and also on the intrinsic value of the human body compared 
 with a rag of cloth. The king himself restated my former 
 arguments. To-day I adopted another line. I said the 
 country was being depopulated by the exportation of children 
 and women. This was allowed on all hands. The king said 
 he was quite at a loss what to do. He himself did not buy or 
 sell slaves, but his chiefs and others did. I said he was not 
 king of his household merely, but of the whole covmtry, and 
 told him he could receive no terms of friendship from England 
 unless he put down the evil. The Arabs (half-caste) were up 
 in arms. Mtesa allowed me to fight it out with them for a while, 
 and then allowed that I was right, but what could he and his 
 people do? The coast-men would not sell clotii or guns, etc., 
 except for slaves. I told him that the country was rich in many 
 things, and if the coastmen would not trade in anything except 
 human beings, then let them stay away. I said other articles 
 of barter would soon suggest themselves. I could not produce 
 them, nor would the Baganda even, so long as every man went 
 about idle as at present. He said if he had only half a dozen 
 white nien here to put his people in the way of producing 
 articles for trade, he would soon put an end to slavery."— 
 Macka/s Journal, Jan. ()th, 1S79.
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 .SLAVE RAIDING AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 
 
 ' I ''HE startling fact is announced by Macka}', that 
 -■- every year some two thousand slaves are pur- 
 chased by Arab traders, in Uganda alone, for trans- 
 mission to the coast ; and in several of his letters he 
 refers to large bodies of armed men sent out under 
 the orders of the king to raid for slaves. Kaba- 
 rega, king of Bunyoro, a neighbouring State, did 
 the same thing, and probably on a scale of equal 
 magnitude ; so that these two neighbouring States 
 alone yielded not less than 4,000 slaves for sale to 
 traders, besides reserving large numbers for home 
 use. 
 
 The difficulties experienced by the servants of 
 the Lakes' Company, and by the members of the 
 Presbyterian Mission on the NyasSa, occasioned by 
 the presence of a strong body of armed, slave-raid- 
 ing Arabs, became so great about this time as to 
 necessitate some new and special measures of pro- 
 tection, if the beneficent work of lawful commerce 
 and Christian teaching were to be continued. This 
 led to a proposal in London to establish a line of 
 
 A. INI. M. *33 28
 
 434 SLAVE RAIDING AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 
 
 fortified posts in the Lake regions, for the purpose 
 of overawing the turbulent and blood-thirsty Arabs, 
 and driving them away. 
 
 Mackay felt that this alone would be perfectly 
 useless ; but carried out in connection with other 
 means, which he suggests, would be effectual to ac- 
 complish tjie purpose of its supporters. In January, 
 1S89, he writes to the Times : — 
 
 " Sir, — In the last number of the Times to hand 
 m this distant region (dated October 5th, 1888) 
 I have read with much satisfaction Commander 
 Cameron's proposal to establish a British association 
 which shall maintain an anti-slavery cordon along 
 the line of the great lakes of Central Africa. The 
 interest which is now being awakened in Europe 
 regarding Central Africa affords to those of us who 
 are familiar with the atrocities daily perpetrated in 
 this continent, some hope of definite steps buing at 
 last taken to put an end to these horrors. It is so 
 difficult to write anything sober on this gigantic evil, 
 without being accused of exaggeration, although ex- 
 aggeration is scarcely possible, that I shall confine 
 myself to an examination of Commander Cameron's 
 scheme, with a view to show how far it will prove 
 successful, and where its failure will chiefly lie. 
 
 "In 1871 Livingstone wrote : — ' The evils inflicted 
 by these Arabs are enormous, but probably not 
 greater than the people inflict on each other.' This 
 is especially true as regards Uganda and Bunyoro. 
 These countries have generally large armies in the
 
 ARAB SLAVERS. 435 
 
 field, in one direction or another, devastating whole 
 regions of their inhabitants. The Arabs, as a rule, 
 do not join these expeditions, organized for wholesale 
 murder, but they supply the guns and the powder, 
 and receive in payment women, children, and ivory 
 procured in the raids. The demand for slaves in 
 Uganda itself is very great, it being only the surplus 
 which is carried off by the Arabs. Every year some 
 2,000 slaves, as nearly as I can estimate, are pur- 
 chased by Arabs, and conveyed by water from 
 Uganda to Usukuma, where the march to the coast 
 begins. It will be no light undertaking to stop this 
 trade on the water ; but granting that it can be done, 
 what means are to be employed to prevent the ten- 
 fold greater loss of life and liberty in the countries 
 raided on by the Baganda .<* 
 
 "Arabs are obsequious enough in the presence of 
 force greater than their own ; but in the interior of 
 Africa they have found that, by making a firm stand, 
 they can defend their interests, however unlawful, 
 against Europeans who oppose them, not for their 
 own interest, but as hirelings engaged on philan- 
 thropic work which has hitherto not been carried 
 on with determined whole-heartediless. Take a itw 
 instances. On the Upper Nile the Arab slavers have 
 carried the day against a hesitating English army, 
 grudgingly sent by a ridiculous route, and hurriedly 
 withdrawn at the moment of victory. On the Upper 
 Congo the poorly manned station of Stanley Falls 
 was easily taken by a gang of slave-hunters; and one
 
 436 SLAVE RAIDING AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 
 
 of the greatest slave-hunters on earth is now placed 
 in charge, where he is subsidized by money from the 
 Congo State— a Power pledged by the Berlin Con- 
 ference ' to employ every means that it can to put 
 an end to the trade, and to punish those who engage 
 in it.' On the Nyassa two or three slavers have 
 well-nigh ousted the representatives of Missions and 
 commerce there. Finally, in East Africa, all the 
 coast acquired by Germany has fallen an easy prey 
 to a few desperadoes and their allies. Nothing of 
 all this would have been attempted had the Arabs 
 not seen the feebleness of the force opposed to 
 them in every quarter, and the readiness with which 
 Christian effort is nowadays abandoned on the first 
 reverse. Even in the waters of Zanzibar the ne- 
 farious slave traffic is pursued with almost complete 
 impunity, because, as one of your correspondents 
 (Mr. Highton, of the Universities' Mission) writes, 
 'the English cruising boats are small, slow sailing, 
 and of an obsolete type.' 
 
 " How are the Arabs in the Soudan, on the Upper 
 Congo, on Nyassa, and on the Zanzibar coast ; or the 
 kings of Uganda and Bunyoro, able to carry on this 
 organized system of slaughter and slave-catching .-• 
 It is only because of the thrice-blind policy of allow- 
 ing them to procure ad libitum supplies of gunpowder 
 and guns. It is Europe, and, I hesitate not to say 
 especially England, that is yearly supplying these 
 men-killers with the means whereby they carry on 
 their deadly work. Men talk of free trade; but there
 
 A POLICY OF DEMENTIA. 437 
 
 can and must be no free trade in instruments of 
 rapine and murder. 
 
 " Here we have the astoundinf^ plienomenon of a 
 continent bleeding at every pore, and of a feeble, 
 ineffective effort made at the coast to check the ex- 
 port of slaves ; while, at the -ame time, a {q.\\ petty 
 European merchants in Zanzibar are pouring into 
 the interior, unchecked, arms and ammunition, with- 
 out which not a single raid could be made by Arabs 
 or Baganda. It is like one man plugging up the 
 outlet of a deep-seated abscess, while others are 
 saturating the blood of the patient with poison. 
 Tribe is stimulated to annihilate tribe, and Arab 
 encouraged to prey upon all, merely by their being 
 allowed as much as they want of man-slaying 
 material. If this is not a policy of dementia, I know 
 not where madness is to be found. For }'ears we 
 have been sowing this bitter seed, and now we mourn 
 as we begin, at length, to reap the bitter fruit in 
 assassination and defiance. The British vessels whicii 
 bring out missionaries and Bibles to evangelize 
 Africa, bring also, and in far greater number, Kn- 
 fields and breechloaders, which convert the continent 
 into a hell. The Church Missionary Society has 
 already spent over 7^150,000 within the last dozen 
 years in the endeavour to introduce Christianity into 
 Eastern Equatorial Africa ; but all- their labour and 
 expenditure is rendered well-nigh fruitless by the 
 continual wars and intrigues carried on upon the 
 strength of the gvms and gunpowder supplied by
 
 43S SLAVE RAIDING AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 
 
 Christian traders, who are too cowardly to venture 
 inland themselves, for their wares would probably 
 cause their assassination. The murder of Herr 
 Geisicke in Tipu Tip's courtyard at Unyanyembe 
 was not unexpected. Again and again the Baganda 
 have confessed to me that it Is the guns which enable 
 them to carry on the work of ' killing ' the neighbour- 
 ing countries. Livingstone, too, writes in his Last 
 Joitrnnh (vol. ii. p. 57) : 'If spears alone were used, 
 the Manyuema would be considered brave ; for they 
 fear no one, though he has many spears. They tell 
 us truly that were it not for our guns not one of us 
 would return to our own country.' 
 
 "Here, then, lies the weak point in Commander 
 Cameron's otherwise laudable scheme. Hundreds of 
 thousands of pounds sterling may be expended in 
 maintaining gunboats on the Nyassa, Tanganyika, 
 and the two Nyanzas ; but if the gunpowder traders 
 are to be still left free to supply their bloody tools, 
 no triple cordon of gallant officers will ever be able 
 to put a stop to slave-hunting in Central Africa. 
 Commander Cameron is right in not recommending 
 that the Government should take in hand the work 
 of forcibly checking slave-raids in the interior. Even 
 in these days of State-socialism, I believe that an 
 independent association of determined men will more 
 effectively do th.e work. But, whether the associa- 
 tion be international or exclusively British, it must, in 
 the first place, secure the sympathy and support of 
 the principal Governments concerned. England and
 
 now TO SUPPLANT THE ARAB. 439 
 
 Germany are in East Africa. France protects 
 Comoro and Madagascar. Belgium is responsible 
 for the Congo State, while Portugal claims vast 
 regions in both East and West. All these five 
 Governments must be asked to pass and enforce 
 stringent resolutions forbidding the importation of 
 arms and ammunition. A cordon of sufficient 
 strength, such as Commander Cameron suggests, 
 will do the rest ; but without that security, no such 
 cordon will effect one particle of good. The work 
 to be done is, therefore, threefold — viz. (i) Stop the 
 influ.x of arms and ammunition ; (2) increase the 
 vigilance at the coast by more and better cruisers ; 
 (3) establish the cordon of police on the upper water* 
 of the great rivers. 
 
 "As long as the Arab remains in Africa he will 
 trade in slaves, and, in spite of his doing so, he 
 will be regarded by the natives as a friend, simply 
 because he trades in other things as well, and there 
 is a demand for these. To rid Africa of his presence, 
 we have only to take the trade out of his hands. If 
 Europeans succeed in supplying the natives with 
 calico and other goods of lawful barter, they will 
 entirely supplant the Arabs, who will retire in vast 
 numbers to their own countr}-. ])Ut to do this, the 
 barbarous and inhuman method of employing porters 
 to carry loads must be abandoned. No European 
 merchant can employ labour of that kind, and hope, 
 at a profit, to undersell the Arab merchant. If he 
 transports his goods by animal power, on the backs
 
 440 SLAVE RAIDING AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 
 
 of elephants or buffaloes, or preferably in wago.js 
 hauled by these, he will without question succeed in 
 securing all the ivory trade, because he will then be 
 able to give more cloth for a tusk. But be it re- 
 membered that millions of natives in Central Africa 
 demand cloth, but have no ivory wherewith to buy. 
 The Arab accepts a slave from a poor man for the 
 little cloth he wants ; but what can the European 
 accept in exchange ? Produce will not pay the 
 expense of freight to the coast, even by wagons 
 drawn by elephants. Hides, tobacco, cotton, and 
 coffee will be offered for sale in many parts, but will 
 be found not worth the carriage over a hundred 
 miles. The one means which will alone succeed will 
 be the construction of rough tramways to the great 
 lakes and other centres of dense population. These, 
 with branch tracks for elephant wagons as feeders, 
 will enable traders to exchange calico for country 
 produce, and will effect the threefold purpose of 
 supplanting the Arab entirely, of developing the 
 resources of the country, and of promoting internal 
 peace ; for the natives will then busy themselves with 
 growing whatever they can get a fair price for, in- 
 stead of fighting with one another as hitherto. Then 
 will come an end to slave-hunting by the Arab ; lor 
 if this proposal is carried out he will have no powder 
 or guns wherewith to shoot down helpless tribes ; 
 and when other trade is also taken out of his hands, 
 he will disappear altogether. Already, in Zanzibar, 
 all the trade has passed into the hands of Indians,
 
 THE ARABS ARE DESPERATE. 441 
 
 which demonstrates the inability of the Arab to 
 compete on fair terms with other traders. Raiding 
 tribes, like Baganda, will also be easily controlled, for 
 a European trading company can insist, as the first 
 condition of their bringing supplies, that murderous 
 raids on neighbouring countries shall cease forthwith. 
 
 " The British association, with its anti-gunpowder 
 and anti-slavery cordon, will prove a valuable police 
 force in preventing the smuggling of either am- 
 munition or slaves ; only it must be strong enough, 
 even from the first, not merely to punish resistance, 
 but to overawe all attempts at defying its authority. 
 The Arabs are now becoming desperate, and no 
 feeble measures dare be used to oppose them ; only 
 such as will insure success. Those who will hold the 
 ammunition will hold the key to the whole interior 
 for good or for evil. Permission may be given to 
 companies, but by no means to private traders, to 
 sell a limited quantity to chiefs who undertake to 
 keep the peace. But let there be no continuance 
 of the present infatuation of one party trying to 
 punish slavers, and another, all the while, being 
 allowed to furnish these same slavers with an un- 
 limited supply of the instruments of their deadly 
 traffic. 
 
 " I hav^e quoted the opinion of Livingstone on the 
 question of supplying slavers with ammunition. Let 
 me conclude with the words of another authority on 
 Central Africa. In one of the last letters I have 
 from Dr. Emin Pasha, dated Wadclai, August 25th,
 
 44^ SLAVE RAIDING AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 
 
 1887, he writes: 'The conditio sine qnd nan for the 
 peace and prosperity of these countries is, to stop the 
 importation of firearms, ammunition, and powder. 
 The EngHsh and German Governments should agree 
 on this step, and punish with relentless severity 
 ofifenders against their proscription. Mwanga and 
 Kabarega would very quickly come to terms on 
 seeing their powder stores empty.' 
 
 " I am, Sir, your obedient servant, 
 
 "A. M. Mackay, C.M.S 
 "Victoria Nvanza, /^r/z/m/j, 1889.'
 
 HOW IS AFRICA TO BE EVANGEIIZEDl
 
 •' The blank interstices 
 Men take for ruins, He will build into 
 With pillared marbles rare, or knit- across 
 With generous arches, till the fane 's complete." 
 
 E. B. Broivning. 
 " In Mackay's very last letter to me, his strong, brave heart 
 seemed oppressed with yet another disappointment, and he 
 wrote : ' I feel strongly inclined to throw up the whole matter, 
 on the present footing, and try a radically new plan.' Fourteen 
 years of toil, and fever, and contradiction, and sorrow, and 
 repeated disappointment ! And he is strongly inclined, not to 
 shake off the dust from his feet, not to return to England, but 
 to try a radically new plan." — R. P. Ashe.
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 HOIV IS AFRICA TO BE EVANGELIZED f 
 
 THE above is the real problem of Africa for the 
 earnest Christian. To the solution of this pro- 
 blem Mackay frequently bent his mind. It is not sur- 
 prising that, cut off as he was from the civilized world, 
 and for many years forbidden to go more than a very 
 short distance from the Mission premises, and even 
 during his life at the south end of the Victoria, 
 confined, by the necessities of his work and the 
 jealousies of rival chiefs, to a very limited area, he 
 should grow dissatisfied with the ordinary methods 
 and results of missionary work. 
 
 From the earliest years of his African life he had 
 strong convictions that the plan of establishing mis- 
 sionary stations at great distances inland, without a 
 strong base at the coast and occasional stations on the 
 way, was a serious mistake in judgment, and would 
 entail enormous expense and unnecessary loss of 
 life. 
 
 The mistake was gradually more or less corrected 
 in time, and as the result of many painful experi- 
 ences. 
 
 His mind seems lately to have fixed itself upon a
 
 446 HOW IS AFRICA TO BE EVANGELIZED^ 
 
 plan of work not altogether untried, but capable of 
 considerable expansion and adaptation to the special 
 needs of Africa. 
 
 This was, to utilize the principle and methods of 
 the Nor})ial school, for the thorough training of a 
 number of carefully chosen natives of both sexes, 
 the training to be partly industrial, but chiefly edu- 
 cational and spiritual ; a few of these schools to be 
 set up at points easily accessible from England, well 
 manned, and thoroughly supported ; the training to 
 be in a language more or less common to many 
 African tribes, and in which most of the literature 
 provided for the use of schools and Christians gene- 
 rally should be printed. 
 
 He arrives at his conclusion by a careful array and 
 induction of facts, and then illustrates his plan by 
 his favourite science of engineering. 
 
 It is almost his last word on the subject nearest his 
 heart, and is worthy of careful consideration. It is 
 highly probable that the plan he recommends might 
 be worked with great advantage, in combination with 
 other methods which ex[)erience has proved to be 
 successful in Africa, and might lead to a very con- 
 siderable increase in the number of faithful and 
 efficient messengers of the Cross. 
 
 He heads his article " The Solution of the African 
 Problem," and says : — 
 
 "An able American advocate of Missions (Dr. Pier- 
 son, of Philadelphia) has tersely said, ' P"acts form
 
 PJK^7 STJiJ£AA'S OF DAWN. 447 
 
 the fuel with which missionary fervour is fired and 
 fed.' In this statement, we may at length, discern 
 the first streaks of dawn in the darkness, and confi- 
 dently assert, that now the chaos of loose conceptions 
 and vague generalizations, in which missionary opera- 
 tions have until now been lying dormant in the 
 minds of Christian millions, is being transformed 
 into what may be termed the * Science and Art of 
 Missions.' 
 
 " In every field of practical knowledge the rate of 
 progress has been marvellous from the day in which 
 men began to closely observe, to weigh and measure 
 facts. Thus the vagaries of astrology were swept 
 away by the most definite of the sciences — Astro- 
 nomy. Thus the follies and fancies of alchemists, 
 and their efforts to find the elixir of life and the 
 philosopher's stone, developed into the science of 
 Chemistry. In INlechanics, men once talked of 
 Nature abhorring a vacuum, and blindly groped after 
 perpetual motion ; but when they set to work 
 earnestly to investigate the properties of materials, 
 and the eternal laws which govern their combination 
 in structures and machines, the science progressed 
 with gigantic strides, and daily contributes more and 
 more to ameliorate the condition of the whole human 
 family. So, toe, has it been with the youngest of the 
 sciences — Electricity. Till quite recently, professors 
 were content to exhibit a series of electric tricks and 
 detached experiments, mere curiosities to the {t.\w, 
 and of no practical value to the many. But when
 
 44^ //Oiy IS AFRICA TO BE EVANGELIZED^ 
 
 practical men ceased to accept their vague talk about 
 tension and current, and began to measure quantities 
 of electricity, and ascertain the permanent principles 
 on which the production and application of electric 
 currents depend, a science was established on a per- 
 fect and intelligible basis, and a period of invention 
 of marvellous electric appliances succeeded, such as 
 never before occurred in the history of mankind. 
 The astounding progress of recent years in physical, 
 mechanical, and electric science has been due solely 
 to the rigid investigation of facts and eternal prin- 
 ciples ordained by the Creator ; and every success in 
 practice has been in exact proportion to the closeness 
 of adherence by inventors to these unalterable facts 
 and principles. 
 
 " It is matter for especial notice that in every de- 
 partment of applied science we have to deal with the 
 unseen. All forces, whether in physics, mechanics, 
 or electricity, are invisible. All efforts to usefully 
 apply these forces, — in short, all progress which has 
 recently been so marvellously made, — has been ow- 
 ing, not to the vague conception that a certain force 
 exists, but to the accurate determination of the 
 amount of that force. It is not enough to know that 
 a current flows ; the practical electrician must know 
 how much current, or he knows nothing. It is not 
 enough for the engineer to know that every cause 
 produces an effect ; he must be accurate, and reckon 
 the magnitudes of both cause and effect. This fact 
 will prove of incalculable value, if carefully borne in
 
 STUDY FACTS. 449 
 
 mind, in dealing with those other fields of thought 
 which arc called spiritual. 
 
 "In the pursuit of exact science, every inquirer must 
 go direct to the fountain of truth. Here is no charla- 
 tanism, no i/isc dixit of priest or pontiff, no order of 
 cardinal or convocation. But when we enter the 
 regions of Metaphysics and Theology, we still find 
 much of the old mistaken methods of natural philo- 
 sophers remaining. Formerly men endeavoured to 
 evolve a philosophy out of their own inner conscious- 
 ness. What they supposed must be the laws of 
 Nature they dogmatically asserted to be her laws. 
 But Nature refused to be bound, and determinedly 
 concealed her secrets until men gave up their idea of 
 being masters, dictatir.g what ought to be, and con- 
 sented to become pupils and humbly sit and learn at 
 Nature's feet. But metaphysicians and theologians 
 have not yet taken this, the only proper step, to 
 come at truth. They have imposed their own laws 
 on reason and faith, and set up a high- priesthood of 
 their own to enforce them. They have divorced mind 
 from soul, natural revelation from written revelation, 
 and scorn the methods which science has discovered 
 to be the only means of ascertaining truth. But 
 truth is one, as mind is one, and God is one. So, 
 too, there can be but one method of arriving at 
 spiritual truth; viz., an unbiassed examination oi facts, 
 and a resolve to learn from these as they are, instead 
 of fanciful supposition as to what ought to be. 
 
 "As Metaphysics may be called the pure math. r 
 A. M. M. 29
 
 450 no IV IS AFRICA TO BE EVANGELIZED? 
 
 matics of Theology, so ]\Iissions are its practical 
 application, and are destined to play as important a 
 part in correcting the vagaries of theologians, as 
 practical engineering has done in the domain of 
 theoretical mechanics. But my object on this occa- 
 sion is, not an examination of doctrine, nor even of 
 the truth or falsehood of those momentous trifles 
 which have split up the Church of the One Lord 
 into countless denominations. IMy object, and the 
 object of the above preamble, is to show that in 
 attacking so vast a problem as the future of Africa, 
 we must cast aside all general and indefinite concep- 
 tions as to how we might suppose the problem will 
 be solved, and carefully examine the conditions and 
 actual facts of the case, allowing these to direct us to 
 a true solution. 
 
 ^^ Fact No. I. Here is a mighty continent, sunk for 
 centuries in ignorance and degradation. Its past 
 history is a story of woes and cruel wrongs. For 
 ages it has been a prey to every form of greed and 
 rapacity of man. Greek and Roman, Arab, Moor, 
 and, lastly, Turk, have swept its northern half. 
 •Christian Europe with Papal sanction, Protestant 
 England — old and new, — Arab, and heathen Hindu 
 have conspired to drain the life's blood of the south- 
 ern half. All these fires have raged for ages, yet as 
 we look around, we are bound to wonder that ncc 
 tavicn cons2nncbatiir. In former years the universal 
 aim was to steal the African from Africa. To-day 
 the determination of Europe is to steal Africa from
 
 SECRET OF THE ARAB'S SUCCESS. 451 
 
 the African, In the name of Christianity, free trade, 
 and civiHzation, we see firewater and firearms pour- 
 ing in at every port. These compete with the 
 Moslem and heathen slaver for possession of the 
 field. Our foes are wiser than we, and have added 
 our firearms to their stock-in-trade, and by means of 
 these they arc to-day all but masters of the situa- 
 tion. 
 
 ^' Fact A'o. 2. The secret of the Arab's success in 
 Africa is threefold. 
 
 " I. His Intrepidity. He will go through fire 
 and water, and expose himself to innumerable 
 dangers, in quest of ivory and slaves. No other 
 race of men has ventured to run such risks for so 
 uncertain a return. 
 
 "2. His Perseverance. Sorely mulcted by petty 
 chiefs ; war and famine constantly closing his road ; 
 English cruisers at the coast chronically making 
 'prizes' of his profits; — yet he never desponds. 
 When one route is closed against him, he never fails 
 to find another. 
 
 " 3. His Determination. In the Soudan, on the 
 Congo, in Eastern Africa, white men have crossed 
 swords with Arabs ; but in every instance, though 
 the European force was well armed and well organ- 
 ized, and the Arab following a mere rabble of slaves 
 and untrained savages, the Arab pluck and deter- 
 mination have excited the admiration of all, and left 
 them masters of the field, while Europe has igno- 
 miniously retired.
 
 452 IWIV IS AFRICA TO BE EVANGELIZED? 
 
 " Fact No. 3. Spurred by philanthropic fceHngs, 
 and eager to repair past injuries, Europeans have 
 again and again tried to do sonictJiing for the good of 
 Africa. What that something should be, has seldom 
 been very clear to the promoters of the enterprise, 
 so that the result of many undertakings, and of the 
 expenditure of vast sums of money and many li\'es, 
 has been Failure. 
 
 "The secret of European failure is fivefold. 
 
 "I. Intcruiittcut and only half-hearted action. 
 Those who have made a study of the history of 
 schemes for the benefit of Africa, cannot fail to note 
 the fits and starts by which these schemes have been 
 characterized ; a strange contrast to Arab steady 
 perseverance. 
 
 "2. Want of a determined policy \n both starting 
 and supporting schemes. The miserable vacillation 
 of English policy in Egypt and in the Soudan ; the 
 half-and-half national support of the Missions to the 
 great Lakes, a support instantly withdrawn whenever 
 danger was imminent ; the make-believe efforts to stop 
 slaving on the East African coast, — these are but 
 examples of the weaknesses of white men's schemes, 
 and are to-day a by- word in Africa and all the East. 
 
 " 3. The mutual jealousy between the different 
 European Powers, in the scramble for Africa, has 
 contributed largely to failure. The halting action of 
 England in Egypt, owing to the jealousy on the part 
 of France ; the contemptible feuds between Germany 
 and England in East Africa, as if half a continent
 
 SECRET OF EUROPEAN FAILURE. 453 
 
 were as confined as an island in the Pacific ; the heart- 
 burnings between Portugal and the rest of Europe, 
 both in East and West Africa ; — these strifes en- 
 gender ill-feeling, and Africa suffers. 
 
 "4. The foolish rejection at the coast of all the 
 resources of civilization, on the part of nearly every 
 expedition into Africa, has been a conspicuous source 
 of failure. The Arab, with our arms and his porter- 
 age by slaves, will ever cast into the shade the fresh- 
 man from Europe with his hired porters. What 
 countless sums have been lost in trying to perpetuate 
 the inhuman system of human porters ! The tedious 
 rate of progress of biped caravans, and the perpetual 
 annoyances attending them, have turned back in dis- 
 gust many a European, who otherwise might have 
 accomplished much in Africa. 
 
 "5. A chronic state of inefficiency due to an insuffi- 
 cient staff oi men at every station, without exception, 
 in the whole tropical zone of Africa. This has 
 often arisen from a false economy, but more fre- 
 quently from a total want of understanding on the 
 part of the home authorities, as to the nature of the 
 work and the difficulties attending its proper execu- 
 tion. This point will be more fully considered 
 further on. 
 
 ''Fact No. 4. The Climate of tropic.d Africa has 
 hitherto proved fatal to all European enterprise, 
 whether Religious, Commercial, or Political. This 
 fact will, doubtless, be regarded by some as more 
 important than any or all of those already enumer-
 
 454 //0/F IS AFRICA TO BE EVANGELIZED? 
 
 ated, and therefore should have the first place. I 
 believe vot, although Dr. Blyden and others have 
 brought this forward as a challenge to the whole of 
 Europe and America. ' Unless we can send men of 
 iron, proof against hunger and deadly miasma,' say 
 they, ' we need never expect to subdue Africa, either 
 temporarily or permanently.' That white men have, 
 in large and unprecedented numbers, been victims to 
 the climate, there is no denying ; but that this fact 
 should be thrown down as a challenge to the whole 
 Anglo-Saxon race, and past fatality taken as a cer- 
 tain indication of future failure, I cannot allow, for 
 the following reasons : — • 
 
 " (i) I have generally found the natives themselves 
 to be quite as subject to fevers and other ills as white 
 men in the same locality. 
 
 "(2) Most severe illnesses, in the case of white men 
 in Africa, arise from tlieir own imprudence or want 
 of knowledge of cause and effect. 
 
 " (3) Where white men exercise care and prudence, 
 they have been able to live in fair health for a long 
 period of years, even while there has been a high 
 mortality among blacks in the same region. 
 
 " (4) Our knowledge of the conditions injurious to 
 health in tropical Africa is constantly increasing; and 
 when such essential facts arc more generally recog- 
 nised as that cJiill, and not malaria, is the main cause 
 of African fever, the foe will be defied on his own 
 ground, and the Anglo-Saxon will outlive his black 
 companions even in the licart of Africa.
 
 THE PROBLEM AND ITS SOLUTION. 455 
 
 " (5) There are many regions on the earth's surface, 
 e.g., the Southern States of America, tropical South 
 America, India, and Oceania, where, from low altitude 
 or other reasons, the climate is apparently worse than 
 anywhere in Africa. Yet in these, white men have, 
 within the space of a hundred years, become in great 
 measure acclimatized. 
 
 "(6) P'or convenience of transport, Europeans have 
 hitherto chiefly confined their exertions to the valleys 
 of the great rivers — the Nile, Congo, Niger, Zambesi 
 — just the most low-lying and unhealthy regions in 
 the whole continent. When they begin to use 
 wheeled vehicles, and thus find ready access to 
 healthier sites, we shall see less mortality among 
 them. 
 
 " Fact No. 5. All the causes above mentioned as 
 hitherto deterrent to military, commercial, and poli- 
 tical success in Africa, operate with still greater force 
 against missionary enterprise, 
 
 " We now come to the problem itself, and its so- 
 lution. Let us keep carefully before us the above 
 facts, which may be summed up in the one word 
 failure, attending all foreign effort for the benefit of 
 Africa. Let us see if, by analogy from another field 
 of thought, we may possibly arrive at some solution 
 of the hitherto apparently hopeless problem — ' Ilow 
 IS Africa to le Christianized?' 
 
 "That the African is capable of Christianization, 
 and of rising to take his place among the foremost 
 races of men, I regard as an indisputable fact. Let
 
 455 HOiy IS AFRICA TO BE EVANGELIZED? 
 
 it be remembered what Europe was at the beginning 
 of our era. There we find fetishism, polygamy, 
 slavery, absolute savagery, in many instances worse 
 than anything to be found in Africa to-day, Chris- 
 tianity was introduced in no feeble and halting spirit, 
 and notwithstanding the many corruptions of the 
 Church of those days, the change wrought was more 
 than marvellous. It is from the naked savages 
 of Albion and Germania that have sprung such 
 names as Newton and Shakespeare, Handel and 
 Goethe. A present meeting of Committee of a 
 Missionary Society, deliberating about the extension 
 of work abroad, is but the Christian development of 
 those palavers which once were held by skin-clad 
 Britons on the grassy bank of the Thames, where, 
 with battle-axe in hand, they debated plans for a 
 raid on a neighbouring tribe. The problem to be 
 solved, and the conditions of the case, were pretty 
 much the same in Europe once as they are now in 
 Africa. 
 
 " An engineer, in undertaking to throw a bridge 
 across a river or ravine, finds himself limited on 
 every hand in arranging his design. Three things 
 may especially be noted as hmiting the design. 
 
 "(i) The nature oi \X\q. foundation. 
 
 " (2) The materials at his disposal. 
 
 "(3) The conditions under which the workmen will 
 have to build. 
 
 " If the foundation is good, he may build his bridge 
 on piers, but h,cre he is limited by the depth he must
 
 THE WRONG PRINCIPLE ADOPTED. 457 
 
 go, for workmen cannot safely live in water beyond 
 a certain depth, nor can piers be carried up to a 
 height beyond the strength of the foundation to bear 
 the superstructure. If he fixes upon the suspension 
 principle, he is again limited as to length of span, for 
 the best material extant will only bear a certain 
 weight, while the conditions under which the erecters 
 will have to work may be impossible. In other 
 words, the engineer must so arrange his design that 
 in no part of the structure must any member be 
 strained beyond what it can safely bear ; nor must 
 the design be such, however theoretically beautiful, 
 as to be impossible of execution. 
 
 " Now, in endeavouring to span the continent of 
 Africa, we must keep these conditions constantly in 
 mind. In the case of bridge-piers, the main conditions 
 are that they stand on a good foundation, are strong 
 enough for the portion of weight to be borne by each, 
 and that all rise to the same level. The pier prin- 
 ciple is that hitherto adopted in Africa in Mission 
 work. Lines of stations have been planted, but too 
 frequently in unhealthy centres, and these, like piers 
 on a bad foundation, have frequently collapsed, or 
 have been unduly loaded for their strength, hence 
 gaps are constantly occurring. The plan has proved 
 a conspicuous failure. 
 
 " Others have tried the suspension principle, but 
 with no better success. A tower of strength has 
 been built at each side of the mighty chasm — one at 
 Freetown, the other at Frere Town — and strong
 
 45o 710 JF IS AFA'/CA TO BE EVANGELIZED? 
 
 links have been hung out from either side, in the 
 hope of unitinij in the centre. But the span has 
 proved too great for the structure. Some of the 
 strongest hnks have now and then given way, and 
 the whole erection has again and again been in 
 danger of falling. Every one knows that in suspen- 
 sion bridges we have not merely the two gigantic 
 chains joining pier with pier, from which the whole 
 platform is suspended, but the landward ends of the 
 chains must be firmly tied back to the solid rock, 
 otherwise the piers will give way, and the whole 
 bridge will fall into the abyss. So, too, our landward 
 or homeward ends have been now and then rendered 
 shaky from want of being properly weighted down 
 by home support. The design has proved a failure, 
 even in the very trifling length, so far completed ; 
 more and more of a failure will it prove as the plat- 
 form is lengthened, and a still heavier strain comes 
 upon the piers. The progress of erection has also 
 been hindered from want of confidence in the design 
 on the part of the promoters, in addition to chronic 
 and sudden hurricanes which have swept past and 
 destroyed large portions which took years in erec- 
 tion. 
 
 " Is the problem, therefore, to be given up as in- 
 soluble } I think not. Have we begun to build, 
 and are we unable to finish.'* Possibly we did not 
 with sufficient care count the cost at first, and now 
 we are inclined to despair. In our teeth is thrown a 
 challenge by an educated African. Is his solution
 
 NO HOPE IN THE AMERICAN NEGRO. 4S9 
 
 the only one, or will it prove a solution at all ? He 
 asserts that the cure for Africa is the American 
 Negro in Africa. Methinks the experiment in 
 Liberia has not hitherto proved such a decided 
 success as to lead us to have confidence in it when 
 tried on a larger scale. Like the old Israelites of the 
 Exodus, their souls have not emerged from bondage, 
 although their bodies are free. We must wait for all 
 that generation, from twenty years old and upwards 
 at the time of the Abolition, to die off first. There 
 may be more pluck and less of the slavish spirit in 
 the new generation. Even then I am doubtful of the 
 result. There seems to be little or no enthusiasm 
 for African regeneration, on the part of the mass of 
 coloured people, either in the States or in the West 
 Indies, or even in Liberia itself Judging, too, from 
 what I have seen of Africans when removed from 
 their native locality, to one not very different in 
 either food or climate, I have too much reason to 
 believe that the American Negro will be less at 
 home in Africa than even the European. 
 
 " Rejecting, therefore, Dr. Blyden's solution, as a 
 scheme of good hope, but of slender chance of success, 
 let us look around for other agents who might thrive 
 in Africa, and convert it to Christianity. 
 
 " Were the Arabs Christians, we could have good 
 Iiopes of their success, from their indomitable pluck 
 and perseverance. But, alas ! Arabia has been 
 neglected by the Church of Christ ; and to-day, 
 where we might look for invaluable missionaries of
 
 46o I/O IV IS AFRICA TO BE EVANGELIZED? 
 
 the Gospel, \vc find only fanaticism for a false faith. 
 Hindus would probably find the climate of Africa 
 not dissimilar to their own ; but the teeming millions 
 of heathen in India cannot afford to part with their 
 feeble band of native evangelist^j. 
 
 " Africa/f?;' the African, and its regeneration by the 
 African, is a familiar watchword, and one that merits 
 attention and examination. But how is the African 
 to impart instruction to his fellows until he first 
 receives instruction himself.-* There can be no evolu- 
 tion without corresponding and previous involution. 
 You can get nothing out of the African without first 
 putting it into him. Every effect must have a cause, 
 nor will water rise higher than its source. Merely 
 to teach the African reading and writing, and the 
 elements of religious and secular knowledge, will be 
 to leave him as before — a hewer of wood and a 
 drawer of water. To quote the words of one of our 
 ablest African missionaries (Johnson of Lagos) : — 
 ' We must provide the Negro with the highest edu- 
 cation we can, only on the basis of African peculiari- 
 tiesl Who is to do this ? For many years to come, 
 probably for a century at least, this must be the work 
 of the Anglo-Saxon. ]jut how and where is this to 
 be done ? In Africa itself.*' Do not Europeans die 
 off there in almost every part of its tropical zone? 
 Are not our funds also low, and existing stations 
 already too insufficiently manned, to be able to under- 
 take the work of carefully training a few^, in addition 
 to our ordinary work of the elementary teaching of
 
 THE CANTILEVER FRINCIPLE. 40 1 
 
 many ? The problem is difficult, and under the pre- 
 sent regime insoluble. Perhaps, however, wc may 
 look once more to engineering for a solution. 
 
 "To span the Firth of Forth with a railway bridge 
 has long defied the utmost skill of engineers. The 
 water is too deep to render piers possible, while the 
 span is too great to render the suspension prin- 
 ciple at all feasible. Did they therefore entirely 
 abandon the scheme as impracticable .'' No. They 
 adopted a natural principle, perfect in conception 
 and comparatively easy of execution ; although the 
 work is on so gigantic a scale that to compare it 
 with the largest existing bridge is like comparing a 
 grenadier guardsman with a new-born infant. The 
 principle is called the CANTILEVER, which even 
 the most unmechanical mind can understand at a 
 glance. At each side of the Firth a high tower is 
 built. Each of these towers is like the upright stem 
 of a balance, or the stem of a tree, for from each side 
 of the tower an arm or branch is built outwards, one 
 to the right and one to the left. For every foot in 
 length that is added to the seaward arm a similar foot 
 length must be added to the landward arm, so as to 
 make the balance even. The seaward arms on each 
 side are, however, not continued until they meet, but 
 stop short when their extremities are several hundred 
 feet from each other. To fill this gap an ordinary 
 girder is placed, having its ends resting on the sea- 
 ward ends of the two cantilevers. In this marvel- 
 lously simple way the mighty chasm (one-third of a
 
 462 110 IV IS AFRICA TO BE EVANGELIZED? 
 
 mile) is spanned, which could not be done on any 
 other known principle. 
 
 " Let us adopt this principle, by analogy, as our 
 solution of the African problem. Instead of vainly 
 struggling to perpetuate the method of feebly 
 manned stations, each holding only precarious exist- 
 ence, and never able at best to exert more than a 
 local influence, let us select a few particularly healthy 
 sites, on each of which we shall raise an institution 
 for imparting a thorough education, even to only a 
 few. But instead of drawing from the general fund 
 for the support of such institutions, let each be 
 planted on a base of a fund of its own ; and for every 
 man added to the staff abroad, let there be secured 
 among our friends at home a guarantee of sufficient 
 amount to support him. This is the land arm of the 
 cantilever : the man in the field is the seaward arm. 
 Each institution must be a model ox normal school, 
 no one being admitted on the staff who has not been 
 trained to teach. The pupils to receive, not an elemen- 
 tary, but as high an education as is in the power of 
 their teachers to impart, only with the proviso that 
 every pupil is to become a teacher himself. These in- 
 stitutions to be placed sufficiently far apart, so as not 
 to interfere with each other, while for Eastern Africa 
 only one language, viz. Suahili, to be adopted in all. 
 Erom these centres, each with a large staff of teachers, 
 the students will go forth to labour among their 
 countrymen, thus filling up the gap between the long 
 arms of the cantilever, Lovcdale jind Blythswood,
 
 THE MODEL SCHOOL. 463 
 
 in South Africa, I would mention as types already 
 successful in no ordinary degree. 
 
 "We cannot put new wine into old bottles. We 
 must educate, and that thoroughly, those who will, in 
 time, take our place in the Christianizing of their own 
 continent. To teach these African children to exercise 
 their reason and their conscience, to think, to judge, is 
 a work which must be done. It is not every one who 
 will be able to take part in such a work. Everything 
 like ideas of race superiority must be absent from the 
 teacher's mind. He must be a master of method, and, 
 first of all, able to impart the knowledge he possesses. 
 Everything like gowns and caps and other parapher- 
 nalia of white men's colleges must be rigidly ex- 
 cluded. While provision is made for imparting a 
 thoroughly good education, that must be pervaded in 
 every part by a Christian spirit, and based on the 
 Bible, which will be the leading text-book, and which 
 al'. must learn without exception. 
 
 " In this way, probably soon, but under our present 
 
 system, NEVER, will the prophecy of Victor Hugo be 
 
 fulfilled, that 'the next century will make a MAN of 
 
 the African.' 
 
 "A. M. ]\IACKAY. 
 
 " Victoria Nyanza, July, 1889." 
 
 [In sending this article for publication, he said, "To 
 be continued ;" but no continuation of it has been 
 received.]
 
 MACK A Y'S LAST MESSAGE. 
 
 A. M M 4-5
 
 To EuCENE Stock, Esq., Editorial Sccrclary^ C.M.S. 
 
 " U SAMUlKO, /cwuary 2/Jtf, 1890. 
 " But what is this you write—' Come home' ? Surely now, in 
 our terrible dearth of workers, it is not the time for any one to 
 desert his post. Send us only our Jirst twenty men, and I may 
 be tempted to come to /nip you to find the second twenty. 
 " Ever yours affectionately, 
 
 "A. M. Mackay." 
 
 "The world is giving to the Church an example of enter- 
 prise. Life and wealth are being freely consecrated to the 
 opening up of Africa under the influence of motives which are 
 not of the highest order, though having a mixture of benevo- 
 lence in them. Should not the love of Christ constrain us to 
 be even more energetic ? 
 
 " Does it 1 Where are volunteers ? Where are the investors ? 
 Where are the wise and talented leaders ? Where are the 
 unselfish heroes and heroines, who give their lives gladly that 
 Africa may be evangelized '^"—Rc'^i:;ions Beyond, /iilv, 1890.
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 A/ACKAV'S LAST MESSAGE. 
 {Dated, Usambiro, ind January, 1890.') 
 
 " '^ I ^O the world outside, Africa still presents the 
 -■- appearance of a land of death and stagnation, 
 where generations live and die an uneventful life, 
 with no revolutions or other political crises to mark 
 epochs in their history. In this great unknown land, 
 however, events move apace, and sometimes with 
 alarming rapidity. Glancing at the history of 
 Uganda for the last half-dozen years, we cannot fail 
 to be struck by the remarkable succession of events. 
 
 "/« October, 1884, King Mtesa died. In many 
 respects he was a remarkable man, having ruled the 
 country since ever we had heard of its existence. His 
 name will ever be associated with those of our great- 
 est travellers — Livingstone, Speke, and Stanley. He 
 first invited Christian missionaries to the countr\', 
 and through good report and evil report he befriended 
 them to the last. Mwanga, one of his younger sons, 
 succeeded him ; a vain youth with a vacillating dis- 
 
 ^ Received by the C.M.S., April 24tli, 1S90, ten days after 
 the receipt of the telegram from Zanzibar, announcing liis 
 'death. 
 
 467
 
 4^8 MACKAY'S LAST MESSAGE. 
 
 position, who had yet to learn that the Most High 
 ruleth in the kingdom of men, and giveth it to whom- 
 soever He will. His history was destined to be 
 strangely associated with that of the growth of the 
 kingdom of God in Uganda. 
 
 "Ill October, 1885, Mwanga, in a fit of fear and 
 madness, ordered the execution of the brave Ijishop 
 Hannington, who had travelled unscathed through 
 the most lawless part of Africa, and all unknowingly 
 entered the domains of a monarch whose suspicion 
 of white men had been roused to the highest pitch 
 by the malicious slanders of Arab traders. Some 
 months previously he had condemned to the flames 
 the three first martyrs for the faith, and crowned his 
 acts of cruelty by putting to death his favourite page 
 for venturing to remonstrate with him for murdering 
 the bishop. 
 
 " October of 18S6 found Mwanga more than ever 
 alarmed at the spread of Christianity in his country. 
 In May he had ordered a general massacre of the 
 Christians ; many were speared, and others tortured 
 to death, more than thirty being slowly roasted alive 
 in one murderous pyre. The remaining Christians 
 liad to wander about in hiding, homeless and help- 
 less, and still the persecuting fury raged in IMwanga's 
 heart, threatening the complete extirpation of Chris- 
 tianity in the land. 
 
 " The year 1887 was comparatively uneventful in 
 Uganda itself Christianity was still proscribed, and 
 terror reigned. But the invincible leaven was still at
 
 CIVIL WAR. 469 
 
 work, and many were being secretly added to the 
 Church. Mvvanga, abandoned to evil thoughts, was 
 surely working his own ruin, harassing and plunder- 
 ing his subjects everywhere, and rendering himself 
 generally odious. In October of that year our Mission 
 suffered serious reverses in Unyamwezi, being driven 
 simultaneously from both our well-established sta- 
 tions, Uyui and Msalala. 
 
 "Before the return of October, 1SS8, Mwanga was 
 driven from his throne, by the combined effort of his 
 Christian and Mohammedan soldiers, who had dis 
 covered his diabolical plot to kill them all by starva- 
 tion on a small island on the Lake. A new king 
 was elected, religious liberty proclaimed, and not a 
 few avowed Christians given high positions of author- 
 ity in the country. INIwanga had listened to the evil 
 counsels of the Arabs, but they failed to help him 
 in his hour of need. His successor, Kiwewa, proved 
 no wiser. Arab intrigue again found scope, and the 
 Christian chiefs were accused of rebellion. The 
 charge was absolutely without foundation, but it was 
 enough to warrant an attack upon them by the 
 Arab party, who drove them from the country and 
 assumed all the power themselves. That sad 12th 
 of October will never be forgotten by our people. 
 Chiefs and commons, rich and poor, free and slave, 
 they fled before their foes, who hotl}' pursued them. 
 Everything was lost ; wives and children, home and 
 countr}'. No man could return to take anything 
 from his house. Clothes, books, their all, gone. The
 
 4/0 JJ/.-ICA'^lV'S LAST MESSAGE. 
 
 European missionaries were likewise plundered and 
 expelled. Hope for Christianity in Uganda seemed 
 to be at the very lowest ebb. 
 
 ''It is 1889, and the 12th of October has again come 
 round. On that day of the previous year, the Arabs 
 were the victors and the Christians the vanquished. 
 Now the order is reversed. These same Arabs have 
 had to leave their wealth and flee for their lives ; 
 some of their comrades, too, have left their bones on 
 the same hill-side where many Christians had fallen 
 in the treacherous attack of the year before. With 
 loud and real rejoicing, Mwanga is carried shoulder 
 high from the Lake to his former capital, and is 
 made Kabaka once more. All the posts of authority 
 are occupied by Christians, all the land falls into 
 their hands ; even the king himself is no more their 
 despotic master and murderer, but a helpless instru- 
 ment in their hands. God has given them the victory. 
 
 "But it has been a year of bloodshed. It was not 
 they who took the field against the Mohammedans, 
 but the latter who sent army after army to endeavour 
 to effect their annihilation. In repeated battles they 
 have had to face a foe fanatical in temper, as well 
 as more numerous and better armed than themselves. 
 Many of their comrades have fallen, far more than 
 all who were slain by Mwanga in all his bloody 
 persecutions. The greatest, and, till recently, the 
 most tyrannical power in all East Africa is now in 
 the hands of men who rejoice in the name of CllRIS- 
 TI.\N.
 
 A GREAT OPPORTUNITY. 471 
 
 *' But is the power in tlie hand of Christianity ? 
 Shall a nation be born in a day ? It is born, but 
 being only just born it is at this moment in the most 
 helpless and critical condition conceivable. Shall it 
 hQ left to die of neglect, ox mayhap to be suckled by 
 some ravening wolf, which is already eager to nourish 
 the infant nation with her milk, which centuries have 
 shown to be deeply saturated with the ravening 
 wolfish nature ? Is this to be so ? or is it the resolve 
 of Christian England that the blood of PURE 
 Christianity shall be instilled into the veins of this 
 African infant, and that it shall be brought up in 
 the nurture and admonition of the Lord ? IMwanga 
 writes, ' I want a host of English teachers to come 
 and preach the Gospel to my people.' Our Church 
 members urge me to write imploring you to 
 strengthen our Mission, not by two or three, but by 
 twenty. Is this golden opportunity to be neglected, 
 or is it to be lost for ever ? 
 
 " You sons of England, here is a field for your 
 energies. Bring with you your highest education 
 and your greatest talents, }'ou will find scope for 
 the exercise of them all. You men of God who 
 have resolved to devote your lives to the cure of 
 the souls of men, here is the proper field for you. 
 It is not to win numbers to a Church, but to win 
 men to the Saviour, and who otherwise will be lost, 
 that I entreat you to leave your work at home to 
 the many who are ready to undertake it, and to 
 come forth, yourselves to reap this field now white
 
 472 Jl/ACA'AV'S LAST MESSAGE. 
 
 to the harvest. Rome is rushing in with her salva- 
 tion by sacraments, and a rch'gion of carnol ordi- 
 nances. We want men who will preach Jesus and 
 the Resurrection. ' God is a Spirit,' and let him 
 who believes tliat throw up every other consideration, 
 and come forth to teach these people to worship 
 Him in spirit and in truth. 
 
 " ' Forget also thine own people and thy father's house ; 
 So shall the King desire thy beauty. 
 Instead of thy fathers shall be thy children, 
 Whom thou shalt make PRINCES in all the earth.' 
 
 "A. M. M." 
 
 Letter from Mr. David Deekes. 
 
 "UsAMBiRO, Feb. i2th, 1890. 
 " My dear Dr. Mackav, — 
 
 " I am very sorry indeed to have to report to you 
 such sad news. It is the Lord's doing, and we know 
 that He doeth all things well, therefore we shall not 
 murmur nor trouble, but willingly and joyfully sub- 
 mit to His blessed will. 
 
 " It has pleased the dear Lord to take to Himself 
 your brave and beloved son to his everlasting home. 
 He passed away on Feb. Sth, at 1 1 p.m., during a 
 severe attack of fever, having been four days and 
 nights delirious (malaria fever). 
 
 "A week or so before, he was kindly setting me up 
 for a journey home to England, on account of my 
 health, which has been bad for many months. On 
 the morning I was to start, the men had come very
 
 CALLED ''HOME." 473 
 
 early in the mornin;^, and I had been busy helping 
 
 them pack as well as I could. Ever}'thinjj was ready 
 
 at sunrise. When I began to look for Mr. Macka}', 
 
 I found, to my surprise, that he had not come out of 
 
 his room. I went to him at once, and was sorry to 
 
 find him taken very ill with fever. I at once decided 
 
 to stay a few days, and dismissed the men. In five 
 
 days he was taken from us. He was much beloved 
 
 by all his fellow-missionaries. The Baganda, for 
 
 whose good he devoted his life, were all dotedly 
 
 fond of him. His work and labour of love here will 
 
 ever continue to grow and bring forth fruit to the 
 
 honour and glory of God, whom he so faithfully 
 
 served while here upon earth. 
 
 " Yours in the deepest sympathy, 
 
 " David Deekes." 
 Received May \2tJ1. 
 
 Extracts from Minutes of Committee of 
 THE C.M.S. 
 
 "April 22nd, 1S90. — The Committee received with 
 deep regret the news of the death of Mr. Mackay 
 of the Nyanza Mission, and adopted the following 
 minute : — Mr. Mackay was the last survivor in Africa 
 of the original missionary party sent out in 1S76, in 
 consequence of Mr. H. M. Stanley's challenge to 
 Christian England to plant a ]\Iission in Uganda. 
 During the whole period of nearly fourteen years he 
 never once left the shores of Africa, and for the 
 greater part of tlie time he was in Uganda itself.
 
 474 ^^--^ CKA y'S LAST MESS A GE. 
 
 Mr, Mackay's talents were of a very high order, and 
 he brought to bear upon the cause of the spread 
 of Christianity and civiUzation in Africa, not only 
 remarkable practical resourcefulness as an accom- 
 plished engineer, but the powers of a vigorous 
 and cultivated mind, and a devotion and persever- 
 ance unsurpassed by any African Missionary. More- 
 over, he took a leading part in the direct work of 
 the Mission, teaching and preaching the Word of 
 God, and fearlessly proclaiming Christ as the Son of 
 God and the Saviour of men, in the teeth of bitter 
 opposition on the part of Mohammedan traders and 
 others ; and he utilized his knowledge of both 
 classical and modern languages in reducing the 
 vernacular of Uganda to writing, and rendering into 
 it portions of Scripture, prayers, etc. The Committee 
 had looked forward to Mr. Mackay's experience and 
 ability proving still more useful in the future, under 
 the new circumstances of the opening up of Equa- 
 torial Africa to European influence ; but it has 
 pleased God in His unerring wisdom and love to 
 remove His servant thus early from the scene of his 
 untiring labours. The Committee direct that an 
 expression of their sincere and grateful sympathy be 
 conveyed to Mr. Mackay's venerable father and the 
 other members of his family." 
 
 The Church Missionary //^/^///^^/vr^r says : — "Much 
 as we valued Alexander Mackay, we were quite un- 
 prepared for the burst of admiration and sympathy
 
 TESTIMONIES. 475 
 
 evoked by his death. We confess frankly, that we 
 had not at all realized the position he had gained 
 in the public mind. No doubt, Mr. Stanley's recent 
 praise of him has helped to make him known ; but 
 that evidently only clenched an impression that was 
 already abroad. When the Times correspondent at 
 Zanzibar speaks of the ' irreparable loss to the 
 cause of African civilization ' involved in his death ; 
 when the Pall Mall Gazette calls him (not very 
 felicitously, though) 'the St. Paul of Uganda;* 
 when great provincial dailies, like the Leeds ]\Iereury 
 and the MancJiester Examiner, devote leading articles 
 to him ; one sees that the world can now and then 
 appreciate a missionary, even when there is nothing 
 sensational, as with Patteson and Hannington, in 
 the manner of his death. But it is especially inter- 
 esting to see what the survivor of the two great 
 travellers who first discovered Uganda has to say of 
 him. Colonel J. A. Grant, the companion of Speke 
 in the memorable journey of 1859-63, thus writes to 
 Mr. Wigram : — 
 
 "*I had the utmost confidence in him, and looked 
 forward to the time when he would sail round the 
 Lake in his own steamer, and when we should have 
 him amongst us, to tell all he knew of that deeply 
 interesting country which I almost love, Uganda. . . . 
 The blow to civilization in Central Africa which has 
 fallen on us all is not easily repaired, for a score of 
 us would never make a Mackay.' 
 
 "Newspapers all over the country have had appre-
 
 4/6 jl/ACA'AV'S LAST MESSAGE. 
 
 ciative notices of him, and many of them leading 
 articles. Private letters, full of sorrow, have come 
 from all quarters. The Convocation of York passed 
 a special resolution of sympathy with the C.M.S. 
 missionaries and Bishop Tucker, the first time such 
 a thing has ever been done. Several other bodies 
 passed similar resolutions ; among them, the General 
 Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland, and the 
 Foreign Missions Committee of the same Church." 
 
 His father has also received resolutions of sym- 
 pathy from the British South African Co., the 
 Foreign Missions Committee of the Free Church of 
 Scotland, the Clan Mackay Society, and other 
 bodies. Mr. Mounteney Jephson also wrote Dr. 
 Mackay, enclosing a cheque for £60 from the 
 Countess de Noailles, Hyeres, Var, for the purchase 
 of a small marble cross to place over the grave at 
 Usambiro, adding, " The Countess would like an 
 inscription in Arabic, Suahili, and English put on 
 the cross. It would have, she thinks, a good effect 
 on the natives, by whom he was so much beloved 
 and trusted, if this memorial was always in their 
 midst. I would suggest that the cross should be 
 small, so that it might be the more easily carried up 
 country." 
 
 We catch a last glimpse of him in the following 
 touching letter to Dr. Mackay from A. J. Mounteney 
 Jephson, Esq., one of Dr. II. M. Stanley's officers : —
 
 '' good-bye:' 477 
 
 " 86, roRTLAND Place, W., 
 
 " ]\Iay 2nd, 1890. 
 " Dear Dr. Mackay,— 
 
 " Three days ago I received a letter from Africa, 
 and the tears came into my e}es when, turning it 
 over, I read your son's signature at the end. It had 
 been written only three weeks before his death. I 
 can express myself only so poorly of my gratitude 
 to your son and of all that I feel about him. 
 
 "We arrived at his Mission at Usambiro broken 
 down in body and mind, tired and wearied from the 
 constant strain of those hard months, and prostrated 
 and beaten down by fever. He received us and 
 gave us the sincerest welcome it is possible for a 
 man to give. He seemed to understand all that we 
 wanted, and with the utmost delicacy gave us exactly 
 what most we needed. His kindness, his goodness, 
 his cleverness, his gentle sincerity, and kindly, cheer- 
 ful ways endeared him to us all. We arrived a 
 handful of broken-down, embittered men at his 
 station, and through his kindness we left for the 
 coast restored to health and with a fresh zest and 
 love for our work. I shall never forget the morning 
 we left Usambiro. He walked part of the way with 
 us, and wished us good-bye ; and one's whole heart 
 went out to him when he took my hand and wished 
 me God- speed. That lonely figure standing on the 
 brow of the hill, waving farewell to us, will ever 
 remain vividly in my mind. 
 
 " It was so inexpressibly sad to get his letter,
 
 47S MACK AY'S LAST MESSAGE. 
 
 and to read his kind expressions to me after we had 
 heard of his death. 
 
 " Not only is his death a sadness for his friends, 
 but it is an irreparable loss to Africa, whose cause he 
 had so deeply at heart and for whom he worked so 
 devotedly. 
 
 " Africa is such a hard mistress to serve, and she is 
 so pitiless to her servants. Your son's name is now, 
 alas! added to that long list of devoted men who have 
 lost their lives by fearlessly doing their duty. His 
 death, too, will cause a feeling of dismay to his African 
 friends, by whom he was so trusted and beloved ; for 
 many days before we reached his Mission we heard 
 from the natives of Mackay, nothing but Mackay 
 — they seemed to care for and know of no one else.^ 
 
 " I feel that all I am writing is such a wretched 
 failure in expressing the almost sacred feeling I have 
 about your son and his work. 
 
 " Please convey my expressions of sorrow for his 
 loss to all his people, and please accept, dear Dr. 
 Mackay, my sincerest and deepest sympathy for you 
 in your sorrow. 
 
 " Yours sincerely, 
 
 " A. J. MOUNTENEY JEPIISON." 
 
 Mr. Eugene Stock thus sums up his missionary 
 character : — 
 
 "Alexander Mackay was one of the niisslonariea 
 
 • " Mackay's name seems quite a household word ; I con' 
 stanlly hear it." — Bisliop Hanniugton.
 
 MISSIONARY CHARACTER. 479 
 
 whose careers illustrate those pregnant words of St. 
 Paul's which embody one of the most important of 
 missionary principles — ' Diversities of gifts, but the 
 same Spirit ' — 'differences of administrations, but the 
 same Lord ' — * diversities of operations, but the 
 same God which worketh all in all.' Mackay is 
 identified in most minds with the industrial and 
 material and civilizing side of IMissions, an important 
 side, but not by any means the most important. It 
 would indeed be most unjust to think of him entirely 
 in that aspect.^ A man who was one day grappling 
 with Mohammedans in strenuous theological aigu- 
 ment, and 'preaching Christ that He is the Son of 
 God' (in that respect a true ' St. Paul of Uganda ') — 
 
 ^ "To all the Christians in England having sympathy with the 
 religion of our Master : — I am your friend, the first convert and 
 follower of Mr. A. M. Mackay in Uganda. We have returned 
 to our country by the strength of our Master Jesus Christ. We 
 have arranged that full liberty shall be given to our teachers to 
 teach religion in Uganda, but our teachers now are few. Mr. 
 A. M. Mackay has gone to his rest, and there remain two 
 only, Messrs. Gordon and Walker. Try your utmost, then, to 
 persuade our Christian brethren to come and help us in the 
 work of God. 
 
 "There are many, many Baganda who want to read, but there 
 are no books to teach the people, because our brother, Mr. 
 A. M. Mackay, has gone to his rest. He was familiar willi 
 Luganda, and printed books in the language. 
 
 "Dear brethren, I am your friend, and I implore your sympathy 
 on behalf of the religion of our Master Jesus Christ, that you 
 may come and help us in His work, so that our Church may be 
 strong in Uganda." — Extract from letter to C. M.S., from Son- 
 bera Mackay, Usambiro, April lyd, iSgo. (See p. 229.)
 
 4So JILICA'AV'S LAST MESSAGE. 
 
 who the next day was content to sit for hours teach- 
 ing boys to read, and explaining to them simple 
 texts — and who the third day was patiently translat- 
 ing the blessed words of life into a language that had 
 no grammar or dictionary — such a man was no mere 
 industrial and civilizing missionary. At the same 
 time, he was one, in a very marked degree ; and all 
 missionaries are not so. There are * diversities of 
 operations.* Our brethren who have lately gone to 
 Africa would probably not work in IMackay's way, 
 nor he in theirs. But God can and does use both. 
 And alongside the love, and fervour, and simplicity 
 which we trust may always be illustrated in Africa, 
 may God give to some of His missionary servants 
 the practical ability and skill, the wide knowledge, 
 the readiness of resource, the invincible devotion to 
 the work he had undertaken, — that characterized 
 Alexander Mackay. And may He enable those on 
 whom He has bestowed these great gifts to lay them 
 all upon His altar, and to consecrate all to the one 
 grand object of Missions, the conversion of souls to 
 Christ 1 " 
 
 ''And I heard a voice from heaven saying unto vie, 
 
 Write, Blessed are the dead zvhich die in the Lord 
 
 fioui henceforth : j'ca, saith the Spirit, that they may 
 
 rest front their labours ; and their zuorks do folloiu 
 
 them!' — Rev. xiv. 13.
 
 A G 
 
 E 
 
 Greenwic 
 ulon.
 
 ^^
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Aberdeen, 3 ; Grammar School, 6, 
 8. 
 
 Abyssinia, 78, 270. 
 
 Adders, 234, 
 
 Aden, 43, 44, 216. 
 
 Africa, 10. 14, 27, 30. 
 
 Africa (East), 8, 27, 59, 87, 261, 
 287, 292, 325, 327, 379- 436. 
 
 African Problem, 344. 446. 
 
 Albert Lake, 289, 340, 350, 408. 
 
 Alexandria, 113. 
 
 Alford (Dean), 8. 
 
 Ankoli, 407, 409. 
 
 Anti-Slavery Conference, 312, 
 ,, Society, 347. 
 
 Ants, 53, 54, 62, 71, 233. 
 
 Arabia, 419, 459. 
 
 Arabic, 121, 122, 130, 140, 148, 
 165, 215, 289, 335, 359, 362. 
 
 Arabs, 51, 66, 74, 77, 7S, 
 88, 89, 90, 104, 105, 123, 
 124, 126, 134, 147, 150, 151, 
 159, 164, 105, 183, 188, 205, 
 20S, 211, 216, 224, 225, 226, 
 228, 248, 26 r, 288, 289, 290, 
 291, 301, 306, 320, 321, 334, 
 335. 354, 355. 358, 359, 3^^' 
 3S9, 390, 391, 393, 395, 417, 
 418, 423, 433, 451, 469. 
 
 Arkwriglit, 284. 
 
 Arts, School of, 1 3. 
 
 Ashantee, 78. 
 
 Ashe, Rev. K. P., 213, 241, 249, 
 250, 254, 257, 260, 263, 264, 
 269, 274, 275, 278, 294, 299, 
 
 300, 309, 3'3, 315. 317, 321, 
 322, 323, 329, 330, 333, 340, 
 
 343. 373^ 374, 378, 379, 3^3^ 
 3S5, 3S6, 399. 
 
 A. M. M. 
 
 Auchindoir, 3. 
 
 Bafumo, the, 177. 
 Bngamoyo, 49, 261, 428. 
 Baganda, the, 82, 94, 222, 228, 
 
 320, 410. 
 Bahr Gliazal, 289, 290, 292. 
 Baker, Sir Samuel, 270. 
 Baptisms, 126, 128, 229, 230, 231, 
 
 240, 241, 248, 249, 264, 271, 
 
 304, 413- 
 Baptist, John the, 265. 
 Baptists, 261. 
 Basere, the, 172. 
 Basese, the, 222. 
 Baur, Herr Hofprediger, 16, 17, 
 
 19, 21, 26. 
 Baziba, the, 221, 222. 
 Belgians, the King of, 49, 58, 312. 
 Berber, 84. 
 
 Berlin, 11. 14, 16, 17, 26, 262. 
 Bible, 8, 16. 23, 139, 147, 218. 
 Bible Class, iS, 218, 249. 
 Bible Readings, 17. 
 Birth, 3. 
 
 Birtliday, 25, 137, 232. 
 Bismarck, 261, 263, 28S, 340, 350. 
 Blackburn, Mr., 316, 373, 379, 
 
 383. 
 Blessing, 103, 141, 172, 245, 271, 
 
 320. 
 Blyden, Dr., 454. 
 Boat-building, 7r, 81, 83, 241, 
 
 244, 245,302, 374, 391,395- 
 Eonar, Rev. Dr. H., 13, 15, 20, 
 
 23, 28. 
 Botany, 107. 
 Boyhood, 3. 
 
 British Association, 5, 4S. 
 4S1 rii
 
 4S2 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 British Government, 62, 269, 272, 
 
 309, 311, 340, 342, 350, 427. 
 British Weeicly, 3, 401. 
 Brooks, Mr., 396. 
 Brotherhood, 59, 61, 78. 
 Brown, Mr., 53. 
 Broyon, M., 51, 52, 53. 
 Bruce, Rev. Dr., 419. 
 Budu, 261. 
 
 Bullock- wagon?;, 47, 50, 57, 60. 
 Bumbire, 172, 248. 
 Bunyoro, 208, 273, 275, 334, 355, 
 
 356,411,433. 
 Burgash, the Seyid, 52, 66, 90, 165, 
 
 Ib6, 208, 262, 263, 288, 423, 
 
 424. 
 Burial, 196, 197, 235, 236. 
 Burton, 86. 
 Busi Island, 354. 
 Busoga, III, 208, 262, 263, 265, 
 
 270, 312, 411, 413. 
 Buvuma, 223. 
 
 Buxton, Sir T. Fowell, 366, 367. 
 Buzongora, 172, 221, 222, 238, 246, 
 
 261. 
 Bvvani Heri, 37, 52, 59. 
 
 Cadenhead, Capt., 271. 
 
 Cameron, Commander, 49, 434, 
 
 43!^. 439- 
 Cantilever, Principle, 461. 
 Caravans, 47, 50, 51, 56, 66, 88, 
 
 89,265, 315. 
 Carlyle, 218. 
 Carter, Capt., 271. 
 Cassati, Sgr., 291, 320, 355. 
 Charms, 87, 88, in, 112, 124, 153, 
 
 154. 157, 158, 159, 169, 174, 
 
 177, 219, 220, 305. 
 Chemistry, 13. 
 Children, 51, 73, 89. 
 Christianity, 24, 25, 39. 166, 175, 
 
 245, 247, 258, 259, 260, 265, 
 
 280, 284, 311, 324, 333, 335, 
 
 342, 362, 369, 471. 
 ChrisManify, Practical, 16, 21. 22. 
 Christian-, 276, 315, 321, 324, 329, 
 
 360, 361, 409, 410, 413, 416, 
 
 470. 
 Christmas, 155, 172, 304, 305, 
 
 314. 
 
 Church of Scotland, 28, 58. 
 Classics, 6, 12. 
 Clifford, Rev. Dr., 240, 387. 
 C. M. S., 26, 27, 29, 31, 32, 47, 
 58, 67, 70, io5, 245, 274, 340, 
 
 ^ 366, 379' 437. 473. 474- 
 Companions, 14, 15. 
 Congo, the, 277, 286, 435. 455 ; 
 
 Free State, 261, 286, 287, 436. 
 Contemporary Kevitiv, 386. 
 Converts, 135, 231, 248, 314, 315, 
 
 326,412. 
 Copplestone, Mr., 115. 
 Covenanters, 284, 348. 
 Crete, 42, 43. 
 Crompton, 284. 
 Cruelty, 104, ill, iSo, 182, 187, 
 
 189, 194, 198, 256, 283, 294, 
 
 308, 312, 329, 330, 345, 365. 
 
 Daily Teleg7'aph, 28, 59 > 96- 
 Daisy, the, 37, 45, 46, 47, 7 1, 80, 
 
 81, 82, 96, 246. 
 Dar-es-Salaam, 340, 350. 
 Darfur, 288, 290. 
 
 Davies, Rev. G. P., 18, 19, 21, 58. 
 Day, Mr. St. John Vincent, 222. 
 Deekes, Mr., 379, 389, 395, 400, 
 
 472, 473- 
 Delhi, 90. 
 
 Dervishes, 283, 288, 290. 
 Devil Possession, 172, 173, 232. 
 Divination, 88, 174. 
 Drawing, 12. 
 Drink, 61, 78, 79, 335. 
 Drammond, Prof, 265, 325, 369. 
 Duff. Rev. Dr., 27, 28, 29, 330. 
 Dufili, 291. 
 Duncan, Rabbi, 22. 
 
 Edinburgh, 11, 47. 
 Edinburgh University, 12. 
 Education, 4, 12, 13. 
 Egioffstein, Graf and Grafin, 17. 
 Egypt, 92. 93. 102, no, 113, 204, 
 
 233, 288, 290, 419. 
 Egyptian, Officers, 270, 273, 291, 
 
 382, 387. 
 Eleanor, the, 245, 246, 267, 302, 
 
 303. 307. 338, 351. 359- 
 Electricity, 447.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 4S3 
 
 Elmslie, Prof. W.G., 3. 
 Emin Pasha, 270, 272, 273, 290, 
 291, 292, 315, 316, 320, 336, 
 
 349, 351, 354, 355' 356, 374. 
 
 382, 386, 387, 396, 39S, 441. 
 Engineer, 20, 26, 28, 50. 
 Engineering, 12, 13, 14, 26, 50, 54. 
 Engines, 6, 14, 70, 72, 83, 95, 284, 
 
 302, 326, 327. 
 England, 30, 67, 77, loi, 135, 165, 
 
 183, 203, 205, 208, 239, 241, 
 
 268, 271, 280. 281, 285, 287, 
 
 293, 316, 340, 436. 
 English, the, 57, 66, 75, 79, 89, 
 
 93, 108, 128, 152, 192, 193, 
 
 226, 266, 272, 28S, 289, 290, 
 
 362, 397, 399- 
 Entebe, 300. 
 Equatorial Provinces, 2S9, 290, 
 
 292. 
 
 Farrar, Canon, 237, 238. 
 
 Fatiko, 291. 
 
 Fever, see Illness. 
 
 Fire, 275, 331, 357, 35S, 360, 
 
 366. 
 Forests, 55, 56, 60, 393. 
 Fortification, 12. 
 France, 281, 287. 
 Free Church, 3, il, 28, 29, 106, 
 
 476. 
 Free Slate, 277, 292, 293, see Congo. 
 Free Trade, 367, 436. 
 French, 121, 123, 132. 
 Frere, Sir Bartle, 49, 89. 
 
 Geikie, C, D.D., 237, 23S. 
 Geisicke, Herr, 438. 
 Geology, 13, 91, 92, 107, 222. 
 German, 14, 15, 261, 263, 265, 
 
 309, 379, 395- 396, 413- 
 Germany, 14, 19, 26, 50, 261, 340, 
 
 342, 35°- 
 Gessi, 2S9. 
 Gladstone, 292. 
 Glasgow Merchants, 49. 
 Goa, 79. 
 Gordon, General, 36, 102, 259, 260, 
 
 264, 272, 288, 309, 311, 338, 
 
 367. 3S7, 392. 
 
 Gordon, Rev. Cyril, 241, 244, 247, 
 299, 302, 304, 320, 322, 337, 
 338, 364, 372, 373, 374- 375. 
 379- 388, 390, 391, 392, 397. 
 401, 403, 404. 
 
 " Grace and Truth," JtZ 
 
 Grant, Colonel, 108, 206, 475. 
 
 Gray, Rev. W., 429. 
 
 Green, Dr., 282. 
 
 Gunboats, 67. 
 
 Gunpowder, 335, 435, 440. 
 
 Haig, General, 419, 420, 426. 
 
 Hannington, Bishop, 238, 255, 
 262, 265, 266, 267, 268, 270, 
 271, 272, 273, 275, 276, 277, 
 287, 300, 302, 312, 313, 324, 
 337, 368. 413, 46S, 475- 
 
 Hannington, Mrs, 271. 
 
 Highland Lassie, the, 48. 
 
 Home, 3, 17. 
 
 Homes, 90. 
 
 Honga, 57. 
 
 Hooper, Mr., 337, 374, 37S, 379. 
 
 Hovas, the, 280. 
 
 Human Sacrifices, 197. 
 
 Hutchinson, Edward, Esq., 206. 
 
 Hyenas, 61. 
 
 Idolatry, 23, 88, 155, 167, 177. 
 Illness, 47, 48, 52, 65, So, 103, 
 
 225, 241, 256, 302, 337. 
 Imago C/u'isti, 12, 300. 
 Imperial East African Co., 310, 
 
 340, 342, 400. 
 India, 240. 
 Indian Famines, 93. 
 Indian Mutiny, 90. 
 Industrial Missions, 2, 106. 
 Infidels, 15, 23, 24. 
 Insch, 3.' 
 
 Intellii^encer, 68, 474. 
 International Society, 58. 
 Iron, 83. 
 Islam, 75, 104. 117, 125, 175, 1S3, 
 
 219, 259. See Mohammedanism. 
 Italy, 42. 
 Ivory, 53, 66. 67, 89, 291, 354, 
 
 355,440,451. 
 
 Jeddah, 1 13, 216.
 
 484 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Jephson, A. J. Mounteney, Esq., 
 
 _ 476, 478. 
 
 Jesuits, 41. 
 
 Jews, 127. 
 
 Johnson, Rev., 460. 
 
 Johnston, Dr. A. K., 5. 
 
 Jordan's Nullah. 71. 
 
 Jungle, 55. 56,65. 
 
 Junker, Dr., 272, 273, 276, 278, 
 
 2S9, 291, 294, 315, 322, 329, 
 
 387. 392. 
 
 Kabarega. 270, 272, 273, 275, 276, 
 
 336. 355. 366. 433- 
 Kaduma, 69, 76, 78. 
 Kaffir, 79. 
 Kagei, 67, 68, 69, 71, 73, 75, 80, 
 
 94, 222, 241, 247, 248, 256, 
 
 302. 
 Kakumba, 304. 307. 
 Kalema, Prince, 193, 313, 372, 
 
 393- 
 
 Kalika, 291. 
 
 Kangao, 205. 
 
 Kaolin, 107. 
 
 Karague, 42, 84, 91, 94. 
 
 Karamallah, 2S9, 290, 291. 
 
 Katikiro, the, 1 12, 120, 130, 133, 
 146, 147, 151, 152, 154. 157, 
 161, 164, 166, 168, 188, 207, 
 210, 236, 306, 331, 337, 338, 
 
 353. 356- 
 Katonga, River, 261. 
 Kavirondo, 255, 263,265, 267,400, 
 
 411. 
 Keig, 3. 
 
 Keith falconer Mission, 425. 
 Kennaway, Sir J., 49. 
 Khartoum, 113, 204, 272, 288, 289, 
 
 291.315- 
 Khedive the, 259, 316. 
 Kikwago, 60. 
 Kilwa, 224. 
 Kingani River, 46. 
 Kintu, King, 190, 192. 
 Kirk, Sir J., 52, 266, 269, 270. 
 Kisessa, 66. 
 Ki\vendo,a, 184, 185, 193, 194, 197, 
 
 198, 218, 331. 
 Kiwewa, King. 469. 
 Knox, John, 264. 
 
 Kokoto-ni, 44, 79. 
 
 Koran, the, 124, 126, 127, 130, 13S, 
 
 213, 236. 360, 361. 
 Kottbus, 27. 
 Krapf, 327. 
 Kwa Makolo, 384, 3S5. 
 
 Lado, 291. 
 
 Leilh, 13. 
 
 Leopards, 112, 375. 
 
 Levesque, Pere, 191. 
 
 Liberty, 165, 166, 167, 193, 269, 
 
 284, 287, 326, 327. 328, 340. 
 Lincoln, Abraham, 89. 
 Livingstone, 10, 27, 368, 407, 434, 
 
 438, 467. 
 Livingstonia, 106. 
 Livinhac, Pere, 190, 191, 192. 
 L'Konge, 62, 74, 75, 76, 77, 151, 
 
 268. 
 L.M.S., 24, 58, 379, 396. 
 London, 31, 205, 206, 207. 
 London, the, 48. 224. 
 Lourdel, Pere, 120, 132, 133, 159, 
 
 163, 188, 192, 193, 196, 225, 
 
 260, 354, 356, 360, 361, 402. 
 Lubare, the, 134, 148, 149, 150- 
 
 177, 215, 230, 231, 232, 236. 
 Lugalama, 304, 307. 
 Luganda, 8, 125. 127, 129, 142, 
 
 146, 224, 229. 241, 250, 264, 
 
 303, 359. 389. 392, 409. 
 Lupton Bey, 289, 291. 
 
 McCheyne, 16, 26. 
 
 Macdonell, James, Esq., 3. 
 
 Machinery, 6, 13, 14. 70, loS. 
 
 Mackay, Rev. A.. LL.D., 3, 4, 8,' 
 29, 135, 209, 474, 476; Letters 
 to, 13, 22, 25, 33. 213, 231. 265, 
 276. 293, 3S8, 472, 477. 
 
 Mackinnon, Sir Wm. , 31 1, 340, 
 
 367. 
 Madagascar, 20, 23, 26, 279-2S1 
 Magic Men, 112. 
 Magu, 378, 3S8, 393, 395. 
 Magubika, 54. 
 Mahdi, the, 258, 259, 260, 272, 
 
 283, 288, 291. 
 Makraka Country, 290, 291. 
 Malagasy, 20, 25.
 
 IXDEX. 
 
 4S5 
 
 Malta, 40, 42, 204. 
 
 Mamboya, 395. 
 
 Manoiiga River, 91, 
 
 Manyuema, 67, 438. 
 
 Mary Worship, 42, 129, 132. 
 
 Marya, 222, 223. 
 
 Masai, 84, 262, 265, 413. 
 
 Masika, the, 54, 65, 93. 
 
 Marquet, Monsieur, 291. 
 
 Martyrs, 22, 62, 74, 256, 257, 267 
 
 tu 33I' 360, 362, 363, 406, 411, 
 
 412, 468. 
 Massacres, j^if Kiwendo. 
 Mechanical Knowledi^e, 6, 82, 240. 
 Mechanics, Applied, 12. 
 Medical Dispensary, 32. 244. 
 Medical Missions, 3, 171, 346, 426. 
 Medicine-men, 176. 
 Medicines, 66, 87, iii, 160, 161, 
 
 169, 171, 1S8, 194, 195, 2J4, 
 
 235- 
 Ment,'o, 353, 35S. 
 Meyer, Rev. V. B., 401. 
 Meyers, Dr., 395. 
 Miller, Hugh, 5. 
 Mirabeau, 303. 
 Mirambo. 52, 59, 61, dl, 125, 247, 
 
 26S, 272. 
 Alireinbe, the, see Eleanor. 
 Mission House, 301. 
 Missionaries, 20, 23, 26, 58. 
 Missions, 19, 20, iSi, 269, 2S6, 
 
 326, 447, 452, 456. 
 Moffat, Dr., 36S. 
 Mohammed Biri, 320, 354. 
 Mohammedanism, 21, 1 18, 127, 
 
 164, 217, 258, 259, 360, 423. 
 Mohammedans, 74, 89, III, 1 28, 
 
 130, 131. 133. 134, 150. 174, 
 186, 227, 236, 260, 361, 362, 
 390, 40S, 412, 413, 417 to 430, 
 470. 
 
 Mombasa, 26, 27, 53, 84, 370, 
 411. 
 
 Morton, Mr., 50, 53, 61. 
 
 Mosquitoes, 48, 61, 107, 243, 246. 
 
 Mpwapwa, 47, 48, 51, 61, 65, 
 
 224, 395- 
 Msalala, 244, 245, 246, 256, 263, 
 265, 267, 278, 279, 302, 307, 
 336, 338, 356, 374, 375. 377- 
 
 Msira Island, 94. 
 
 Mtamburu, 62. 
 
 Mtesa, King, 28, 59, 61, 62, loi 
 
 to 255, 306, 467. 
 Mujasi, 307, 308. 
 Mukasa, 139, 144 to 177. 
 Mullens, Dr., 152. 
 Murchison Lay, 119. 
 Murchison, .Sir R. I., 5. 
 Muscat, 90, 415 to 430. 
 Mvumi, 62. 
 Mwanga, King, 255 to 3SS, 402, 
 
 408, 468, 469, 470. 
 
 Nalamansi, Princess, 313. 
 Namasole, see Queen-mother. 
 Namkade, 305, 306, 423. 
 Nasa, 373, 379, 389. 
 Natete, 301. 
 Negroes, 289. 
 Nero, 276, 284, 331, 364. 
 New Testament, 8, 236, 336. 
 Nicene Creed, 129. 
 Nicoll, Rev. Dr., 3, 401. 
 Nile, the, 43, 84, 93, 273, 277, 
 28S, 291, 340, 350, 368, 435, 
 
 455- 
 Noailles, Countess de, 476. 
 Normal Schools, 11, 12, 73, 106, 
 
 ^46. 
 Ntebe, 139, 304, 357. 
 Nyam-nyam, 291. 
 Nyanza, see \ictoria ; Pioneer 
 
 Expedition, 3, 7, 14, 28, 30, 32. 
 Nyassa, 340, 350, 433, 436. 
 
 O'Flaherty, Rev. P., 211,22810305, 
 
 313, 314, 329, 359, 423. 
 O'.N'eill, 37, 39, 45, 46, 61, 68, 71, 
 
 74, 7.6 77, 272, 287. 
 Oman, 417 to 430. 
 Osmanieh, Order of, 316. 
 
 Pagazi, 50, 56. 
 
 Pall Mall Gazelle, the, 475. 
 
 Parker, Bishop, 316, 335, 33S, 
 
 373 to 379, 3^3- 
 Patcrson, Dr. Maurice, 12, 106. 
 Paton, Rev. J. G., 36. 
 Patronage, 332. 
 Patteson, Bishop, iS, 475.
 
 :4S6 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Paul, St., 12, 237. 
 
 Peace, 328, 332. 
 
 Pearson, Mr., 159, 1S4, 1S9 to 194, 
 
 214, 225, 226. 
 Persecutions, 22, 332, t^'-^'x, ; see 
 
 Massacres. 
 Photography, 7, 32. 
 Physiology, 105. 
 Pierson, Rev. Dr., 446. 
 Plague, 387. 
 PoiiOn, 102, 176. 
 Polygamy, 104, 105, 109, 126, 133, 
 
 134, 139- 
 Portugal, 38, 287. 
 Practical Knowledge, 13, 16, 21, 
 
 26, 36, 50, 81, 86, 100, 106, 
 
 231, 232, 237, 246, 249. 
 Price, Rev. Mr., 49, 248. 
 Primrose, Rev. Mr., 11. 
 Printing Press, 5, 137, 139, 141, 
 
 142, 233, 234, 241, 249, 250 
 
 275. 308, 351, 352. 
 Protestant Missions, 281 ; Powers, 
 
 325- 333- 
 Pruen, Dr., 323. 
 Pump, the, 227, 228. 
 
 Quarles, Francis, 202. 
 Queen Mary, 264. 
 Queen Victoria, 165, 26S. 
 Queen-mother, 162, 163, 164, 235, 
 306. 
 
 Ragged School, 13. 
 
 Railway, 326, 328, 340, 413, 461. 
 
 Ramsay, Sir A., 5. 
 
 Ravenstein, Mr. (R.G.S.), 93, 278. 
 
 Record, the, 49. 
 
 Red Sea, 84, 204, 304. 
 
 Refugees, see Christians. 
 
 Rhynie, 3. 
 
 Ripon Falls, 84, 93, 265. 
 
 Road-maknig, 51, 54, 57, 58, 108. 
 
 Robb, Dr., 53. 
 
 Robertson, James, 32, 46. 
 
 Roma, 246, 247, 393. 
 
 Roman Catholics, 15, 41, 116 to 
 123, 136, 186, 188 to 192, 215, 
 219, 237, 260, 284, 285, 2S7, 309, 
 355, 401, 403, 427. 
 
 Roman Empire, 284. 
 
 Rome, 38. 
 
 Romish Missions, 2S1. 
 
 Ruganda, see Luganda. 
 
 Saabadu, 201. 
 
 Sadani,37, 45, 46, 51, 52, 53, 59. 
 
 Said bin Salim, 66. 
 
 Said, Port, 43. 
 
 Savages, 55, 72, 83, 88, 173, 244, 
 
 291, 327. 
 School, 73, 140, 240, 264, 265. 
 Seidel' s Induslrial Inst7'ucUon, 141. 
 Sengerema, 222. 
 Serpents, 234. 
 Sesse Islands, 222, 397. 
 Shangani Point, 53. 
 Shipwreck, 37, 45, 61,94, 95. 
 Simeyu River, 91. 
 Simpson, Robt , Esq., 13. 
 Skill, Practical, 13, 14, 16, 21, 29, 
 
 50, 109, 140, 235, 249, 250. 
 Slave-trade, 10,47, 5i. 52, 66, 67, 
 
 74, 89, 90, 104, 105, 109, III, 
 
 224, 265, 277, 285, 2S6, 290, 
 
 431- 
 Smallpox, 387. 
 Smith & Co., 53. 
 Smith, Colonel Euan, 391, 429. 
 Smith, Dr. John, 3, 13, 2,2, 47, 299, 
 
 346- 
 Smiih, Lieut., 32, 44, 45, 46, 61, 
 
 68, 70, 73. 74, 76, 77, 83, 165, 
 
 248, 271, 2S7. 
 Smith, Prof. W. R., 3. 
 Smith Sound, 241, 245, 246, 302, 
 
 374. 375- 
 Smithy, 109, 125, 153, 165, 250. 
 Smythe, Prof. Piazzi, 5. 
 Sobat, 289. 
 Songoro, 74, 75, 77. 
 Songura, no, in. 
 Sorcerers, 150, 166, 168, 171, 184, 
 
 232. 
 Soudan, 270, 272, 281, 282, 288, 
 
 289, 309, 340, 350, 383. 387. 
 
 392. 
 South African Co., 400. 
 Spain, 38, 42. 
 Spectator, 347. 
 
 Speke, 68, 85, 86. 216, 467, 475. 
 Speke Gulf, 370, 379.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 487 
 
 Stanley, 10, 59, 61, 85, 86, 89, 93, 
 
 •96, 104, 112. 114, 164, 1S3, 186, 
 
 215, 217, 218, 248, 254, 261, 331, 
 
 334, 340, 356, 374, 375. 3S2, 386, 
 
 387, 396, 397, 398, 400, 403.407. 
 411,421,467,475. 
 
 Stock. Euj^ene, Esq., 32, 125, 466, 
 478, 479. 
 
 Stocker, Hofprediger, 26. 
 
 Stokes, 118, 263, 264, 267, 303. 
 
 Suahili, 43, 46, 72, 76, 78 to 241, 
 , 3^*3. 364, 408. 
 
 Suez, 216; Canal, 392. 
 
 Suma, King, 164, 184, 185. 
 
 Sunday Schools, 13, 72, 131 ; 
 Services, 104, 108, no, 112, 
 120, 124, 125, 129, 130, 132, 136, 
 138, 145, 146, 153, 154, 160, 169, 
 184, 264, 363. 
 
 Superstitions, 145, 196, see Witch- 
 craft. 
 
 Surgeon, III, 171, 194, 195, 234. 
 
 Taborah. 66. 
 
 Tanganyika, 340, 350. 
 
 Tangirs, 261. 
 
 Tauchnitz, 8. 
 
 Tchad (Lake), 290. 
 
 Teachers, 11, 144, 217, 247, 320, 
 
 327- 
 Teachmg, 12, 13, 73, 130, 135, 
 
 137. 141, 153. 163, 165, 166, 
 170, 171, 218, 229, 237, 240, 
 249. 332, 336, 340, 350. 351. 
 366, 377. ^390, 392. 
 
 Theodore, King, 270. 
 
 'I honipson, Sir Rivers, 419. 
 
 Thomson, Dr. Burns, 20, 24. 
 
 Thomson, Mr. (R.G.S.), 263, 421. 
 
 Tipu Tip, 347, 368, 436, 43S. 
 
 Times, tlie, 2S3, 434, 475. 
 
 Tischendorf, 8. 
 
 Tools, 54, 55, Zt„ 109. 
 
 Trade, 107, io8, 166, 310. 
 
 TrainingCollege,j-£'^ Normal School. 
 
 Tramway, 51. 
 
 Translating, 14, 123, 141, 231, 237, 
 
 265, 334, 351, 352, Z(y}„ 394- 
 Transvaal, 292. 
 Tsetse, 108. 
 Turks, 289, 419, 420. 
 
 Tyndall, Prof., 59. 
 Type-setting. 5, 137. 
 Tytherleigh, Mr., 299. 
 
 Ugogo, 47, 78, 97, 216. 
 
 Ujiji, 56. 
 
 Ukara, 248. 
 
 Ukerewe, 61, 62, 67, 74, 75, 76, 78, 
 
 81, 84, 91, 97, 152, 222,247. 
 Ukumbi, 338. 357. 
 Universities' Mission, 51. 
 University, Edinburgli, 12. 
 Unyamvvezi, 73, 78, 93, 216, 223, 
 
 413- 
 Unvanyembe, 56, 66, 67, 68. 72, 75. 
 88, 89, 90, 91, 125, 340, 350, 
 
 39'- 
 Urambo, 52. 
 Urima, 241. 
 
 Usagara, 26, 46, 78, 216. 
 Usambiro, 373, 379, 381, 3S2, 383, 
 
 385, 388, 389, 390. 
 Useguha, 54, 78, 261, 263. 
 Usoga, see Busoga. 
 Usukuma, 64, 78, 92, 150, 222, 
 
 247,413. 
 Uyui, 65, 66, 75, 79, 1S4, 213, 267, 
 
 299- 374, 376, 377, 37S, 400. 
 Uzaramo, 216. 
 Uzongora, see Buzongora. 
 
 Victoria Nyanza, 28, 30, 42, 62, 67, 
 68, 69, 75, 79 to 96, 23S, 242, 
 300, 316, 340, 368,404,411. 
 
 Wadai, 290. 
 
 Wadelai, 291, 292, 315, 354, 3S2, 
 
 Wadoi, the, 44, 88. 
 
 Waganda, see Baganda. 
 
 Wagogcr, 88. 
 
 Wahabis, the, 422, 423. 
 
 Wahehe, the, 62. 
 
 Wnkerewe, the, 77. 
 
 Wakwavi, the, 84. 
 
 Walker, Rev. R. II., 299, 316,321, 
 
 373, 378, 379, 3S8, 395, 397,401, 
 
 403- 
 '■Valler, Rev. Horace, 36S. 
 Wami River. 31, 34- 46. 
 Wangwana. the, 228.
 
 4SS 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Wanika, the, 279. 
 
 Wanyamwezi, the, 69, 71, SS, 177. 
 
 Wasagara, the, 88. 
 
 Waseguha, the, 88. 
 
 Wasotja. the, 82. 
 
 Wasukuma, the, 87. 
 
 Watson's, George, College, 13, 
 
 Watt, 284. 
 
 Watula, the, 84. 
 
 Weapons, 222, 223. 
 
 Westcott, Prof., 386. 
 
 Wilberforce, 89, 367. 
 
 Wilson, Rev. C. T., 32. 
 
 Wise, 237, 241, 244, 247, 302,303, 
 
 304. 374. 375. 376. 
 Witchcraft, 126, 139, 147, 149, 1 50 
 
 to 176, 215, 242. 
 Workmen, 16, 54, 56. 
 Workshop, 139, 141, 153, 165,250. 
 ! Wright, Kev. Henry, 29, 30, 32. 
 
 I Zanzibar, 37, 40, 44, 48, 49, 50 to 
 
 436. 
 [ Zoo, the, 207. 
 
 Butler & Tanner. The Selwood Trinting Works, Frome, and Londoa