nia I - "' TRAVELS FROM S T PETERSBURG I N RUSSIA, T O DIVERSE PARTS O F A S I A B Y JOHN BELL, OF ANTERMONY. The continuation of the journey between mosco and pekin. To which is added, a tranflation of the Journal of Mr. de LANGE,refident of Russia at the court of pekin, in the years 1721 & 1722. VOLUME II. CONTAINING A journey from mosco to der- bent in Persia, in the year 1722. A journey from s t. Peters- burg tO CONSTANTINOPLE, in the years 1737 and 1738. GLASGOW: Printed for the Author by Robert and Andrew Foulis Printers to the University m.dcc.lxiii. Sold by R. & A. Foulis, and A. Stalker at Glasgow ; Kincaid 8c Bell at Edinburgh ; A. Miller, J. Nourse, T. Becket & P. A de Hondt, and C. Henderson in London ; J. Leake, and J. Frederick: at Bath ; and T. Cadell at Bristol. V)»^ A JOURNEY CHAP. IX. I72O. from iyw S r PETERSBURG T O P E K I N. CHAPTER IX. Occurrences at pekin, audience of the ambajffador, <&c» HHE 19th, the prime minifter, accompanied with the mafter of the ceremonies and five Jesuits, came to compliment the ambafTador. As foon as they entered the gate, two of their attendants walked before them, at fome diftance, making a humming noife; the ufual fign that fome perfon of diftinction is coming. Aloy defired the ambaflador would give him a copy of his credentials ; which was not eafily complied with, till thefe minifters abfolutely infill- ed on it ; alledging that the Emperor never recei- ved any letters from his beft friends, among whom he reckoned his Czarifh Majefty the chief, without knowing the contents. The latin corly was at laft Vol. II. A produ- 84791 a A J O U R N E Y chap. dc. produced, the original being in the Russian language; l 7 20 * anc J c he mafler of the ceremonies and the miffionaries having tranflated it into Chinese, took their leave. But the aleggada remained for the fpace of three hours, talking on different fubje&s. This minifter, it feems, was a great fportfman. He asked to fee the ambafla- dor's dogs, which were a few grey-hounds, and fome French buck-hounds. He was defired to receive, in a prefent, any of them which pleafed him heft; but he would accept only of a couple of grey-hounds. In the mean time, the Emperor fent an officer to enquire after the ambafTador's health ; who brought along with him a table, carried by four men, and co- vered with yellow filk, on which was placed variety of fruits and confections; and, in the middle, a large piece of excellent mutton. The officer acquainted the ambaffador that thefe provifions were brought from the Emperor's own table; and therefore hoped he would cat of them. This circumftance was accounted a lingular mark of the Emperor's favour. The day following, the ambaffador had a vifit from the prclidcnt of the council for weftern affairs, called AflTchinoma, accompanied by four miffionaries, two of which were mcilieurs paranim and fridelii. The con- T O P E K I N. 3 converfation turned chiefly on the ceremonial of the chap. ix. ambaffadors introduction to the Emperor, which was l l 2Q * a matter not eafily fettled. The principal points, in- filled on by the ambaffador, were, that he might deli- ver his credentials into the Emperor's own hands, and be excufed from bowing thrice three times on en- tering his Majefty's prefence ; to which cuftom all rauft fubmit who appear before the Emperor. The prefident, on the contrary, afferted, that the conftant praftice in china, for many ages pad, was directly op- pofite to thefe demands; that their Emperors never received letters of credence with their own hands; that the cuftom was for the ambaffador to lay them on a table, at fome diftance from the throne, or the place where the Emperor may happen to fit ; after which they were delivered to the Emperor by the officer ap- pointed for that purpofe. At the fame time, the prefident invited the ambaf- fador to an entertainment, to be given at a palace in the city, where, he faid, the Emperor would be pre- fent, and fpeak with him. His excellency replied, he would accept of the invitation, provided he might, on that occafion, deliver the Czar his matter's letter. He was told this was neither a proper place nor time A 2 for 4 A JOURNEY chap. ix. for that purpofe; but that the Emperor intended to 720 ' gi ye n ^ m a publick audience very foon, and receive his credentials in form. ^ The ambaflador was apprehenfive, that, the Empe- ror having already feen a copy of his credentials, mould he alfo fee himfelf at the entertainment, his publick audience might thereby be retarded; and therefore de- clined the invitation. It appeared, however, after.r wards, that this fufpicion was without foundation ; and that the Emperor intended nothing more than to do honour to the ambaffador. The 2 1 ft, the aleggada paid a fecond vifit. His fervants brought tea ready made, fome jars of arrack, wich fruits and confections. From this day little mate- rial happened, except daily mefTages from court relating to the ceremonial, till the 27th; when this affair was, at laft, adjufted on the following terms. " That the " ambaffador mould comply with the eftablifhed cuf- " toms of the court of china; and, when the Empe- " ror fcnt a minifter to Russia, he ihould have in- " flructions to conform himfelf, in every refpect, to " the ceremonies in ufe at that court." This affair gave the miniftry at pekin much trouble; and, I muft cenfeft, A JOURNEY 5 confefs, the miffionaries took great pains to foften chap. ix. matters on both fides. On the 28th, the day appointed for the ambafla- dor's publick audience of the Emperor, horfes were brought to our lodgings for the ambaffador and his retinue; the Emperor being then at a country- houfe, called tz an- shu- yang, about fix miles weftward from pekin. We mounted at eight in the morning, and about ten arrived at court; where we alighted, at the gate, which was guarded by a ftrong party of foldiers. The commanding officers conducted us into a large room, where we drank tea, and ftaid about half an hour till che Emperor was ready to receive us. We then entered a fpacious court, enclofed with high brick-walls, and regularly planted with feveral rows of foreft- trees, about eight inches diameter, which I took to be limes. The walks are fpread with fmall gravel ; and the great walk is terminated by the hall of audi- ence, behind which are the Emperor's private apart- ments. On each fide of the great walk are fine flower- plots and canals. As we advanced, we found all the minifters of flate, and officers belonging to the court, feated upon fur-cufhions, crofs legged, before the hall, in the open air ; among thefe, places were appointed $ A JOURNEY chap. ix. appointed for the ambafTador and his retinue; and in I 7 2 °- this fituation we remained, in a cold frofty morning, till the Emperor came into the hall. During this in- terval, there were only two or three fervants in the hall, and not the leaft noife was heard from any quar- ter. The entry to the hall is by feven marble fteps, the whole length of the building. The floor is fine- ly paved with a neat checker- work of white and black marble. The edifice is quite open to the fouth; and the roof fupported by a row of handfome wooden pil- lars, octangular, and finely polifhed; before which is hung a large canvafs, as a fhelter from the heat of the fun, or inclemencies of the weather. After we had waited about a quarter of an hour, the Emperor entered the hall at a back-door, and feat- cd himfelf upon the throne; upon which all the com- pany flood. The matter of the ceremonies now de- fired the ambafTador, who was at fome diftance from the reft, to walk into the hall ; and conducted him by one hand, while he held his credentials in the other. Having afcended the fteps, the letter was laid on a table placed for that purpofe, as had been previoufly agreed ; but the Emperor beckoned to the ambafTador, and directed him to approach; which he no fooner perceived, TOPEK1N. J perceived, than he took up the credentials, and, at- chap. rx. tended by aloy, walked up to the throne, and, kneel- l 7 20 * ing, laid them before the Emperor ; who touched them with his hand, and inquired after his Czarifh Maje- fty's health. He then told the ambaflador, that the love and friendfhip he entertained for his majefty were fuch, that he had even difpenfed with an eftablifhed cuftom of the empire in receiving his letter. During this part of the ceremony, which was not long, the retinue continued {landing without the hall; and we imagined, the letter being delivered, all was over. But the mafter of the ceremonies brought back the ambaflador; and then ordered all the company to kneel, and make obeifance nine times to the Emperor. At every third time we flood up, and kneeled again. Great pains were taken to avoid this piece of homage, but without fuccefs. The mafter of the ceremonies flood by, and delivered his orders in the tartar lan- guage, by pronouncing the words morgu and bofs ; the firft meaning to bow, and the other to ftand; two words which I cannot foon forget. This piece of formality being ended, the mafter of the ceremonies conducted the ambaflador, and the fix gentlemen of the retinue, with one interpreter, into the 8 A JOURNEY chap. ix. the hall. Our clerks, inferior officers, and fervants, x 7 2 °- remained (till without; together with many courtiers and officers of diftin<5tion. We were feated on our own cufhions, in a row upon the floor, to the right of the throne, about fix yards diftance. And imme- diately behind us fat three miflionaries, drefled in Chinese habits, who conftantly attend the court. On this occafion, they ferved, by turns, as interpreters. Soon after we were admitted, the Emperor called the ambaffador to him, took him by the hand, and talked very familiarly on various fubjects. Among other things, he told him, that, he was informed his Czarifh Majefty expofed his perfon to many dangers, particularly by water; at which he was much furprifed; but defired he would take the advice of an old man; and not hazard his life, by committing himfelf to the rage of the mercilefs waves and winds, where no va- lour could avail. We were near enough to hear this piece of friendly and wholefome advice. This converfation being finifhed, the Emperor gave the ambaffador, with his own hand, a gold cup full of warm taraiTun; a fweet fermented liquor, made of various forts of grain, as pure and ftrong as canary wine, of a difagreeable fmell, though not unpleafant to the T O P E K I N. 9 the tafte. This cup was brought about to the gentle- chap. ix. men ; and all of us drank the Emperors health ; who ob- l J^^ ferved, that this liquor would warm us that cold morn- ing. His Majefty alfo found many faults with our drefs, as improper for a cold climate; and, I muft con- fefs, I thought him in the right. On the left fide of the throne fat five Princes, fons to the Emperor; together with all the minifters and grandees of the court. The taraflun, however, was handed about to none but ourfelves, and the Jesuits behind us. Eight or ten of the Emperor's grandfons now entered the hall. They were very handfome, and plainly drefTed; having nothing to diftinguifh them, but the dragon with five claws, woven into their out- er garments, and a yellow tunic of fattin, bearing the fame device, with little caps on their heads faced with fable. After them came the muficians carrying their inftruments. By this time the hall was pretty full; and, what is furprifing, there was not the leaf! noife, hurry, or confufion. Every one perfe&ly knows his own bufinefs; and the thick paper foles of the Chinese boots prevent any noife from their walking on the floor. By thefe means every thing goes on with great regularity; but at the fame time with wonderful quick- Vol. II. B nefs IO AJOURNEY chap. ix. nefs. In fhort, the chara&eriftic of the court of fe- , 7 20, kin is order and decency, rather than grandeur and magnificence. The Emperor fat crofs-legged on his throne. He was drelTed in a fhort loofe coat of fable, having the fur outward, lined with lamb skin; under which he wore a long tunic of yellow filk, interwoven with fi- gures of golden dragons with five claws; which device no perfon is allowed to bear except the imperial fa- mily. On his head was a little round cap, faced with black fox skin; on the top of which I obferved a large beautiful pearl in the fhape of a pear, which, together with a taflel of red-filk tied below the pearl, was all the ornament I faw about this mighty monarch. The throne alfo was very fimple, being made of wood; but of neat workmanfhip. It is raifed five eafy fteps from the floor, is open towards the company; but has a large japanned fcreen on each fide to defend it from the wind. The maftcr of the ceremonies, and a few officers of the houfhold, were drellcd in robes of flate, of gold and diver (tuffs, with monftrous dragons on their backs and brcafts. Moft of the minifters of ftate were dref- fed very plain, having nothing like ornaments about them T O P E K I N. II them; a few only had large rubies, fapphires, and e-cHAP.ix. meralds. Thefe precious ftones are cut into the fhape I 7 2 °- of pears, through which a hole is drilled, to fix them on the top of their bonnets. Thefe holes diminifh the value of the ftones, one half at leaft, at an Euro- pean market. I once faw, however, one of thefe ru- bies, with a hole drilled through it, which was bought at pekin for a trifle, valued at ten thoufand pounds Sterling in Europe. But fuch bargains are rarely to be met with; this being a ftone of the firft clafs, for bignefe and purity. As for diamonds, the Chinese, it feems, do not much efteem them; for few diamonds are found in china, and thefe very rudely cut and fhaped; and fo, indeed, are all their coloured ftones. It was now about noon; at which time our enter- tainment began to be ferved up ; (of which I ihali alfo give fome account.) There were firft brought neat little tables, covered with variety of fruits and con- fections, and placed before all the company. It feems to be the fafhion in this country to bring the defert firft; at leaft that was the cafe at all the entertain- ments where I was prefent. In this, as in many other things, the behaviour of the Chinese is quite con- trary to that of the Europeans. Soon after the B 2 fruits, 12 A JOURNEY ch.ap.ix fruits, the victuals were ferved in the fame manner, 7^' and placed on fmall tables before the guefts. They confifted of fowls, mutton, and pork, all very good of their kinds; and the whole was either boiled, or ftew- ed with pickles; but nothing roafted. The Emperor fent feveral difhes from his own table to the ambafla- dor, particularly fome boiled pheafants; which were very agreeable. The mufick played all the time of dinner. The chief inftruments were flutes, harps, and lutes, all tuned to the Chinese tafte. There was alfo fome vocal mufick; an old tartar, in particular, fung a warlike fong, to which he beat time, by ftriking, with two ivory rods, upon a chime of little bells that hung before him. A young tartar fung a call to war dancing at the fame time, and keeping time by draw- ing the head of an arrow a crofe his fhield. Then entered two little girls, who danced and funo- while the inftruments played. After them came tumblers, who performed various feats of activity, in the court before the hall. Thefe were fucceeded by wreftlers fencers, and other performers of the fame fpecies. The Emperor fent frequently to the amballador, to ask how he liked the mufick, dancing, and other en- tertain- T O P E K I N. 13 certainments. He alfo inquired about feveral princes chap. ix. and flates of Europe, with whofe power, by fea and l J?J^ land, he was not unacquainted. But, above all, he wondered how the kingdom of Sweden could hold out fo long againft fo great a power as that of Rus- sia. After this converfation, the Emperor informed the ambaflador that he would foon fend for him a- gain; but, as the night was cold, he would detain him no longer at prefent; and immediately ftept from his throne, and returned to his private apartments by the fame paffage he left them. We alfo mounted, and repaired to our lodgings in the city, fo well fatisfied with the gracious and friendly reception of the Em- peror, that all our former hardfhips were almoft for- got. The 29th, the Mandarin tulishin came to our lodgings, with two clerks, and took a lift of the pre- fents, fent by the Czar to the Emperor. Thefe con- fided of various rich furs, clocks, repeating watches fet in diamonds, mirrors; and the battle of poltava, nicely turned in ivory, done by his Czarifh Majefty's own hands, and fet in a curious frame. The ambaf- fador, at the fame time, delivered to the Mandarin, as a prefent from himfeif to the Emperor, feveral toys of I 4 AJOURNEY chap. ix. of value, a fine managed horfe, fome grey-hounds, and l 7 20 * ^ge buck-hounds. Every thing was entered in a book, very exactly, even the names and qualities of each particular dog. There was alfo tied about the neck of each dog, a yellow filk-cord, drawn through a hole in a little bit of wood, which hung from the dogs neck, as a mark of its belonging to the court. The Chinese, in ge- neral, are very fond of little harlequin dogs that play monkey tricks. A fervant of ours had one of that kind, which he fold for an hundred ounces of filver. The fame day, all the fruits and confections of the entertainment given at the audience, which remained, were fent to the ambaffador's lodgings. They were carried in great ftate through the ftreets, covered with yellow filk; and an officer of the court walked before the proceflion. Next day, the Emperor fent to our lodgings fevc- ral large diihes of maflive gold, containing a kind of delicate fifh, called mu, already dreffed; but in fuch a manner that I did not know to what to compare it. Alfo fome bowls filled with excellent vermicelli; and a fort of pad ry- puffs, baked over the fteam of boiling water, exceeding, in whitenefs, any thing of that kind I T O P E K I N. 15 I ever faw. All chefe things were fent from his Ma- chap ix. jetty's own cable; an honour which he grants buc fel- dom. It feems he was refolved we fhould have pro- vifions in abundance; for, befides all thefe, we received our daily allowance, in which we were by no means (tinted. After dinner, the mafter of the ceremonies, accom- panied with the captain of the eunuchs, and three Je- fuits, came to vifit the ambafTador. This eunuch was a great favourite of the Emperor, on account of the knowledge he had acquired in mathematics and me- chanics. He made the ambafTador a prefent of a fmall enamelled gold watch, and a wind- gun, both of his own making. The Emperor himfelf is a great lover of the arts, fo far, that, whoever diftinguiihes himfelf, in any ufeful branch of them, is fure to meet with proper encouragement. The eunuch alfo made a prefent, to the ambafTador, of a fteel to ftrike fire; and then defired to fee the prefents; which was grant- ed. At taking leave, aloy told the ambafTidor, that the Emperor intended to give him a Chinese drefs, which was more convenient and warmer than the Eu- ropean. December the fir ft, merin-sanguin, a general offi- cer 5 6 AJOURNEY CHAP.ix.cer, and brother to the firft minifter of ftate, came to I 7 2 °« vifit the ambafTador. Notwithftanding the high rank of this military gentleman, he had no fword about him; for, at pekin, no perfon, not even officers and fol- diers, except when on duty, wears a fword, or any other weapon, in the city. The day following, the ambafTador had a fecond audience of the Emperor, at the fame palace. On this occafion the Czar's prefents were carried to court, by a number of people fent for that purpofe. The Emperor viewed them all at a diftance; after which they were delivered to an officer appointed by his ma- jefty to receive them. This audience was held in a private hall within the inner- court, where only the of- ficers of the houfhold, and the gentlemen of the reti- nue, were prefent. We were entertained in the fame manner as before. The Emperor converfed very fa- miliarly with the ambafTador, on various fubjecls; and talked of peace and war, in particular, in the ftyle of a philofopher. In the evening, we returned to the city, in a cold north wind, which blew the dufl about in clouds. Scarcely had we arrived, when the fruits and confections, according to cuftom, were fent to our lodgings. The T O P E K I N. 17 This evening, one of the Emperor's grandfons came chap. ix. to vific the ambaffador. He was a genteel youth, a- bout fourteen years of age, and had not above half a dozen of attendants. Next day, the weather continued cold and frofty. The sky was clear, and a ftrong wind at north-weft, blowing the duft about. I obferved that the north- weft winds are the coldeft in this place; as they come over the vaft tracts of ice and fnow in Siberia. The 4th, there was a fall of fnow, to the deepnefs of feven or eight inches ; which was immediately thrown into heaps, and the ftreets clean fwept. This day the mifTIonaries fent a prefent to the ambafTador, confid- ing of feveral forts of venifon, and wild- fowl, and a greater variety of fine fruits, and confections, than I ever faw in any country; together with a couple of jars of wine made by themfelves. Among the fruits there were fome fpecies which I had never before feen ; par- ticularly a fort of apple, about the fize of a common orange, with a fmooth skin of a yellowifh colour, very foft and fwect, or rather lufcious; alfo a fruit about the bignefs of a walnut, but quite round, refembling in tafte a prune , but far more delicious ; it con- tains a fmooth hard ftone; and the whole is covered Vol. II. C with ,8 A JOURNEY chap. ix. with a thin browniih (hell, fo brittle that it is eafily l 7^ a broken between the finger and thumb. Some of thefe {hells are rough, and others fmooth. They ferve to prevent the tender fruit from being devoured by birds, and from flying duft; and, what is fomething uncom- mon, the fruit does not adhere to the fhell, but a fmall vacuity is left between them. It is not only pleafant to the tafte, but is accounted very wholefome. The 5th, the ambalTador had a third audience of the Emperor, in the palace at pekin. As fome affairs relating to the two empires were to be difcuffed, the fe- crctary only, M. de lange, accompanied the ambaf- fador. After he was introduced, the Emperor told him, he had given orders to the tribunal for weftern affairs to hear the fubject of his commiffion; and then retired to his own apartments, leaving his minifters to tranfacl the bufinefs; which was foon finimed on this occafum; and the ambaiTador returned to his lodgings. The 6rh, being st. ni^ol.as' day, a great feftival in the grefk church, the ambaiTador went to the Russian chapel in pf. kin to hear divine fervice. This houfe (lands within the city, under the eaft wall; and was built, by the bounty of the prefent Emperor kamhi, on the following occafion, About T O P E K I N. 19 About the year 1688, there happened a difference chap. ix. betwixt the government of Siberia and the Chinese, i 7 2 °' about a fmall fort, called albazin, which the Russi- ans had built upon the banks of the river a mo or. The Chinese alledged the fort was erected on their territories; and, jealous of the approach of fuch power- ful neighbours, made fcveral fruitlefs reprefentations to the governor of Siberia to have it demolifhed. The Emperor, at laft, impatient of longer delay, fent an army of above one hundred thoufand men, to do by force what could not be accomplifhed by negotiation. They invefted the place on all fides, and raifed batte- ries againft it. After a vigorous defence, the garri- fon, confining of about three or four hundred cos- sacks, was obliged to furrender for want of provifl- llons. No terms could be obtained ; and all the Rus- sians were made prifoners of war. In confequence of which they were carried to pekin, where the Empe- ror generoufly afllgned them houfes apart from the reft of the inhabitants, permitted the free exercife of their religion, and gave them a daily allowance equal with his own foldiers. By this mild treatment they were enabled to build the little chapel, which they ftill poffefs. The defcendents of thefe prifoners are pret- C 2 ty 20 A JOURNEY chap. ix. ty numerous, and ufeful co their countrymen the I 7 2 °« Russians as interpreters. I formerly mentioned that thefe difputes were ended on the following terms ; the prifoners on both fides were to remain unexchan- ged, and the fort of albazin to be deftroyed y fince which time the two empires have continued in good correfpondence. The inhabitants of Siberia, indeed, regret much the lofs of their fort; as it flood in a fine climate, gave them poneffion of a large extent of country northward from the a moor; and, befides, o- pened a paflage down that river to the Japanese oce- an. It was, however, the occafion of eftablifhing the greek church in china; which (till continues to flou- rifh, though its members are not very numerous. As one pricft dies, another from Siberia fucceeds him; who minds chiefly his own fmall flock, and thinks very little of making converts. This circumftance prevents their being obnoxious to the roman miffio- naries, who can have no fufpicion of their intefering with the interefts of their church. Thefe millenaries are conltantly employed in making profelytes, and their endeavours have been attended with fome fuc- cefs. The 7 th, we dined at the aleggada's, where we were magni- T O P E K I N. 2 1 magnificently entertained. There was no other com- chap. ix. pany but ourfelves, and we ftaid the whole day. This I 7 20, was the moft elegant and complete entertainment of any I faw in china. About ten o'clock in the morning, chairs were fent for the ambaflador and gentlemen of the retinue, and horfes for the fervants, though the prime minifler's houfe was very near our lodgings. The chairs were carried through two courts, and fet down at the en- try into a hall, where the aleggada waited to receive the ambaflador. After entering the hall, we were feated on neat cane chairs, with japanned frames, in- laid with mother of pearl. The apartment itfelf was very.fimple, open to the fouth, and the roof fuppor ted, on that fide, by a row of well turned wooden pillars. It had no cieling ; but the rafters appeared finely po- lifhed, and perfectly clean. The floor was paved with a checker- work of white and black marble; and in the middle of it flood a large brafs chafing-dilh, in lhape of an urn, full of charcoal. At the entry were placed two large chin a- citterns, filled with pure water, in which played fome fcores of fmall fifties, catching at crumbs of bread thrown into the water. Thefe fillies are about the fize of a minnow, but of a different lb ape, 22 A JOURNEY chap. ix. (hapc, and beautifully varied with red, white, and yel- l 7 2 °- lowfpots; and therefore called the gold and filver fiih. I never faw any of them out of this country 5 though, I imagine, they might eafily be brought to Europe, as they are by no means of the tender kind. I had about twenty of them {landing in a window at my lodgings ; in a morning, after a frofty night, I found all the water frozen, mod of the fifties ftirT, and feemingly dead; but, on putting them into cold frefh water, they all recovered, except two or three. After we had drunk a difh of tea, a collation of broths and victuals was placed on the tables, inter- mixed with variety of fruits and confections. Every perfon had a table a-part, and all were ferved in the lame manner. This repaft, it feems, was only break- fa ft, though it might well have palled for dinner. After this entertainment the ale^Q-ada carried us firft to fee his dogs, of which he had great variety. I formerly obfcrved that this gentleman was a great fportfman. He took greater pleafure in talking of hounds than politicks; though, at the fame time, he had the character of a very able minifter, and an ho- ned: man. We were now conducted through all the different apart- T O P E K I N. 23 apartments of his houfe, excepting only thofe of the chap. ix. ladies, to which none have accefs but himfelf, and the l J^* eunuchs who attend them. We faw a noble collection of many curiofities, both natural and artificial ; parti- cularly a large quantity of old porcelain or china- ware, made in china and japan ; and, at prefent, to be found only in the cabinets of the curious. They confuted chiefly of a great number of jars of different fizes. He took much pleafure in telling when and where they were manufactured; and, as far as I can remember, many of them were above two thoufand years old. He added, that, both in china and japan, they had loft the art of making porcelain in that per- fection they did in former times; and the fault, in his opinion, lay in the preparation of the materials. Thefe curiofities were piled up on fhelves to the very roof of the houfe, and in fuch order and fymmetry as had a pretty effect. From the houfe we went into a little garden, enclo- fed with a high brick-wall. In the middle of it ftood a fmall bafin, full of water, furrounded with feveral old crooked trees and (hrubs; amon^ which I faw that which produces the famous tea. The climate about pekin being too cold for this flirub, there are only a few 2 4 AJOURNEY chap. ix. few bufhes of it to be found in the gardens of the cu- I 7 2 °- nous. I (hall not at prefent enlarge on this ufeful plant, which appeared like a currant-bufh, as an oppor- tunity will occur of giving a fuller account of it be- fore I leave this place. There was a walk round the garden, which, together with that in the middle, was covered with fmall gravel. At each end of the middle- walk was a piece of artificial rock-work, with water running under it, through holes fo natural they looked as if made by the current of the ftream. The rocks were about feven feet high, and fhaded with fome old bended trees. This garden, and many other things in china, difplay the tafte of the inhabitants for imitat- ing nature. From the garden we were called to dinner, where we found a plentiful and elegant entertainment, fet out in the fincft: order, far exceeding any thing of that kind we had fcen before. We had no mufick nor dancing, and the whole was conducted with furprifing decency and regularity. The entertainment lafted about two hours, after which we returned to our lodgings. This day, our gates were opened to people of all characters, and merchants and others allowed to go in and out at pleafure. Though all communication was not T O P E K I N. 25 not prohibited before this time ; it was, however, dif- chap. ix. ficult; and not to be obtained without permifTion of I 7 2 °* the proper officer. The 8th, we dined at the fouth convent, where the Italian miflionaries generally refide. Here all the jesuits in the place, to the number of ten or twelve, were affembled. We met with a friendly reception, and a mod fplendid entertainment. This convent Hands within the city, upon a piece of ground given to the fathers by the Emperor. He gave alfo ten thoufand ounces of filver towards build* ing and adorning the chapel ; which is, indeed, very neat; and handfomely decorated with pictures of faints, and fcripture-pieces, by the bell: hands. An account of this remarkable benefaction of the Emperor kamhi is cut out, in the Chinese language, in letters of gold, and fixed above the great gate; which makes the place more refpected. When we arrived, one of the priefts was officiating in the chapel, where were aflembled a- bout one hundred Chinese converts. At dinner we had a few bottles of wine, made in the convent ; but I cannot fay it was good; though the grapes were fine, and of an agreeable tafte. After dinner, we were conducted to the Emperor's Vol. II. D ftables 26 A JOURNEY chap. ix. (tables, where the elephants are kept. The keeper 1 7 2 °- asked the ambaflador to walk into his apartments, till they were equipped; then we went into the court r and faw thefe huge animals richly caparifoned in gold and filver fluffs. Each had a rider on his back, wha held in their hands fmall battle-axes, with a (harp pike at one end, to drive and guide them. We flood about? an hour admiring thofe fagacious animals; fome o£ them were very large, who, parting before us at equal diflances, returned again behind the flables; and fo on» round and round, till there feemed to be no end of the procefTIon, The plot, however, was at laft difco- vered, by the features and drefs of the riders; and the chief keeper told us there were only fixty of them. The climate about pekin is too cold for them to breed; and all thefe were brought from warmer coun- tries. The Emperor keeps them only for mow, and makes no ufe of them, at leaft in thefe northern parts. Some of them were brought near to the place where we fat, and made obeifance to us, by kneeling and making a dreadful noife; others fucked up wacer from veffels, and fpouted it through their trunks, among the mob, or wherever the rider directed. The faga<- city of thefe animals is raoft furpriflng, and approach- es T O P E K I N. 2 7 esfo near to reafon, that, in this refpecl:, they furpafs chap.ix. all the brute creation. After this mow, we took leave 1 7 2G * of the jesuits, who had accompanied us hither, and returned to our lodgings. Next day, all the gentlemen dined at the palace of the Emperors ninth fon, in confequence of an invita- tion from his chief eunuch, who is a great friend to the r u s s i A-houfe. As the invitation was not from the Prince, the ambaffador would not accept of ic Our entertainment was very magnificent, and accom- panied with mufick, dancing, and a kind of comedy, which lafted moil part of the day. The comedians were of both fexes; if the women's parts were not performed by boys drefled like acTreffes. As the play was in the Chinese language, I could underftand no- thing of it, except from the gefture and a&ion of the performers. It feemed to be a parcel of detached di£ fimilar interludes, without any principal end, or unity of defign. I fhall, therefore, only mention one fcene, which appeared to me the mofl extraordinary. There entered, on the ftage, feven warriors, all in armour, with different weapons in their hands, and terrible vizards on their faces. After they had taken a few turns about the ftage, and furveyed each others ar- D 2 mour 2 8 AJOURNEY chap. ix. mour, they, at laft, fell a quarrelling; and, in the l 7 ZQ - encounter, one of the heroes was flain. Then an an- gel defcended from the clouds, in a flafh of light- ning, with a monftrous fword in his hand, and foon parted the combatants, by driving them all off the ftage*, which done, he afcended in the fame manner he came down, in a cloud of fire and fmoke. This fcene was fucceeded by feveral comical farces, which, to me, feemed very diverting, though in a language I did not underftand. The laft character that appeared on the ftage, was a European gentleman, completely drefTed, having all his cloaths bedawbed with gold and filver lace. He pulled off his hat, and made a pro- found reverence to all that pafTed him. I (hall leave it to any one to imagine, what an aukward figure a Chinese muft make in this ridiculous habit. This fcene was interrupted, and the performers difmifled, by the mafter of the feaft, from a fufpicion that his guefts might take offence. The play being finifhed, vre were entertained with jugglers, who exhibited a variety of legerdemain tricks with great dexteritv. The banquet was prolonged the whole day, excep- ting the time fpent in thefc interludes. No fooner was one courfe carried off, than another was inftantly placed T O P E K I N. *9 placed upon the tables; and the whole concluded with chap.ix. deferts of fruits and fweetmeats. One would fcarce I 7 20 - have imagined, that luxury had made fuch progrefs among the fober and induftrious Chinese. It muft, indeed, be obferved, that, there is almoft no drinking at their entertainments, as they ufe no liquor, on thefe occafions, but tea, and, now and then, a dram of hot arrack. The Chinese handle the two ivory or wood- en pins, which they ufe inftead of forks, with fuch dexterity, that they can even take up needles with them. In place of napkins they fomecimes employ a few fquare pieces of paper. C H A P T E R X. Continuation of occurrences at pekin, cj-r. HHE day following, the ambaflador had a fourth audience of the Emperor, at the palace in the city. This interview was alfo private, and the ambaflador was attended only by his fecretary. The Emperor repeat- ed the aflurances of his friend (hip for his Czarifh Maje- fty, talked ftrongly on the vanity and uncertainty of all human affairs; adding, that he was now an old man, and jo A JOURNEY chap.x. and, by the courfe of nature, could not live long, and l 7 2 °' delired to die in peace with god and all mankind. At taking leave, each of them was prefented with a complete Chinese fuit of cloaths, made of ftrong filk, interwoven with dragons claws, and lined with fable. The 1 2 th, we dined at the French or weftern con- vent, where we again found all the miffionaries. The chapel, and other edifices, are handfome; but not fo grand as the Italian convent. Father paranim is prefident of this convent; he is a man of parts and addrefs, and in great favour "with the Emperor. I was informed this entertainment was given at the expence of the court, and had fome reafon to believe it was fo, as it far exceeded what might reafonably be expected from the Jesuits. The Emperor's band of mufick played all the time of dinner; after which we had jug- glers and tumblers of great activity. Among the ma- ny feats and tricks performed by thefe people, I mail only mention two or three, which feemed moil: un- common. The roof of the room where we fat, was fupported by wooden pillars. The juggler took a gimlet, with which he bored one of the pillars, and asked, whether we chofe red or white wine? the que- fticn being anfwered, he pulled out the gimlet, and put T O P E K I N. 31 put a quill in the hole, through which run, as from a chap.x. cask, the wine demanded. After the fame manner, l 7 2Qm he extracted feveral forts of liquors, all which I had the curiofity to tafte, and found them good of their kinds. Another of thefe expert youths took three long fharp-pointed knives, and, throwing them up by turns, kept one always in each hand, and the third in the air. This he continued to perform for a confider- able time, catching conftantly the falling knife by the handle, without ever allowing it to touch the floor. The knives were exceeding fharp, fo that, had he mif- fed laying hold of the handles, he muft infallibly have loft fome of his ringers. The fame perfon took a wooden ball, fomewhat lefs than thofe commonly ufed in bowling greens, with a hole through the middle of it, and a rod, two feet long, about the fize of a walking ftafr, pointed at the extremity, to fit the hole in the ball. He then toiled the ball above a yard high, and caught it again upon the point of the rod; not in the hole of the ball, but wherever it happened to meet the point; and, in this manner, he continued to throw up and catch the ball for a condderable time. He now placed the ball upon the j t AJOURNEY chap.x. the point of the rod, taking no notice of the hole, and 1 7 20 - twirled it round like a top, fo quickly, that the mo- tion could not be obferved. This feemed extremely dextrous ; for, all the while, he played with the ball in appearance; and, when the motion began to flacken, gave it a frefh twirl with his hand, as if the rod and ball had been fattened to each other. This perfon alfo placed a large earthen difh, above eighteen inches diameter, upon the point of the fame rod, and twirled it round in the fame manner as he did the ball; during this fwift motion, he did not always keep the point in the centre of the vefTel; on the con- trary, he often held it within three inches of the brim. I mail only mention one inftance more. There were placed erecl, upon the pavement of the room, two bambos, which are a kind of cane. The length of them was about twenty five feet; at the low- er end I reckon them to be near five inches diameter, and, at the top, about the breadth of a crown piece. They were ftraight, light, and fmooth; and each fup- portcd by two men. Two boys then climbed up the poles, without the leaft affiftance; and, having reached the top, ftood upright, fometimes on one foot and fome- times on the other, and then upon their heads. This being TOPEKIN. 33 being done, they laid one hand on the top of the pole, chap. x. and ftretched out their bodies almoft at right angles ^\Z^J. to it. In this pofture they continued for a confiderable time, and even ihifted hands. I obferved that much depended on the men who held the poles ; one of the two at each pole having it fixed to his girdle; and they kept a fteady eye on the motions of the boys. There were about twenty or thirty of thefe performers, who all belong to the Emperor, and never difplay their art without his permiffion. I am fully perfuaded, that, in tricks and feats of dexterity, few nations can equal, and none excel, the Chinese. After thefe diverfions, we were conducted to the _ Emperor's glafs-houfe, which his Imperial Majefty of- ten vifits with pleafure. It was erected by himfelf, and is the firft manufactory of the kind that ever was in china. The perfon employed to fuperin- tend and carry on this defign was kilian stumpff, a german father, lately deceafed; a man in great fa- vour with the Emperor, and well known, in china, for his ingenuity and literature. His Majefty is fo fond of this glafs-work, that he fent feveral of the mod curious of its productions in a prefent to his Cza- rilh Majefty. It is furprifing, that the Chinese, who Vol. II. E have 34 AJOURNEY chap. x. have been conftantly employed, for fo many ages, m l 7 2 °- the manufacture of chin a- ware, mould never have {tumbled upon that of glafs. This mows evidently, that the degree of heat necelTary in their ovens muft not be very great, or their materials free from fand ' r for it is certain they had no knowledge of glafs, of any kind, till this houfe was erected. I was informed, that, not long ago, fome Europeans brought to can- ton a parcel of prifms, or triangular glafles, which the Chinese took for natural productions of rock-chryftal^ and bought them at the rate of one hundred ounces of filver apiece. But, from the great quantity im- ported, they foon difcovered their miftake. On the evening of the 1 4th, an officer came from court, defiring the ambafiador to wait on the Empe- ror at his palace of tzangsuang; and bring his mu- ficians along with him. Thefe confided of perfor- mers on violins, trumpets, and kettle-drums. Nexc day, we arrived at the palace, about ten of the clock; and had immediate admittance to the Em- perors private apartments, few being prefent but the oiliccrs of the houfhold and Father paranim. After a fhort conference the mufick was ordered to play. There were in the room ten or twelve of the Empe- ror's T O P E K I N. 35 rors grandfons, who feemed much entertained with chap.x. the inftruments. I asked an elderly gentleman, who *7 2 °* flood by me, how he liked the mufick; he faid it was very good, but their own was better. No ladies were to be feen ; though, I believe, feveral of them were be- hind a fcreen at the other end of the room. The mufick being over, the Emperor ordered one of the princes to conduct the ambaffador into the gardens belonging to the palace ; into which we en- tered, along a drawbridge, over a canal of pure wa- ter. They abounded with fhaded walks, arbours, and fifh-ponds, in the Chinese tafte. The young prin- ces entertained themfelves by mooting with bows and arrows. Some of them difplayed great dexterity, being accuftomed from their infancy to this exer- cife, which is accounted both genteel and healthy ; as the drawing of the bow extends and ftrengthens the mufcles both of the breaft and arms. One of the princes fhewed us a bow and arrows, ufed by the Em- peror when young ; by which it appeared that he had been a perfon of extraordinary bodily ftrength. After we had furveyed the gardens in every quarter, we took leave of the princes, and returned to the city. This day, arrived in pekin Signior mezzobarba, E 2 ambajffk- -36 A JOURNEY chap. x. ambaflador from his Holinefs the Pope to the Empe- 1 1 °- ror. This gentleman was a cardinal, and patriarch of Alexandria. His retinue was compofed of ecclefia- fticks of different orders, and a few fervants, who were all lodged in the Italian convent. They came from Europe to macao in a Portuguese fliip ; from thence to canton ; and then, by land, to this place. The defign of this embafiy was to enquire into the difputes and mifunderftanding, that had lately arifen in this country, betwixt the Jesuits and Dominicans; relating to certain rites annually performed by the ciiixese christians, at the tombs of their deceafed parents or other relations. This cuflom feems to be the fame with that of the parentalia anciently in ufe amon£ the greeks and r o m a n s. It Is univerfal in china, from the emperor to the meaneft peafant. It feems the jf.su its permitted their converts to viilt the tombs of their relations ; alledging, that, without fuch indulgence, no perfon would embrace Christianity; and. that time would wean them from fuch fuperftiti- ous ceremonies. The Dominicans, on the other hand, aflirmed that it was next to idolatry, and de- clared it unlawful to allow any fuch cuitom; ftrictly prohibiting all conformity in their converts. Thefe diffe- T O P E K I N. .37 differences, in all probability, will not foon be de- chap.x. termined. The Emperor himfelf tried to make the I 7 2 °* parties compromife matters ; but, finding his endea- vours ineffectual, he left them to agree or difputc ac- cording to their pleafure. He inclined, indeed, to fa- vour the opinion of the Jesuits, which he thought mod reafonable. At any rate, it muft be acknow- ledged an inftance of uncommon condefcenfion, for an heathen Emperor to intereft himfelf fo much in the peace of a christian church. The 1 6th, Mr. de lange and I paid a vifit to the Fathers fridelly and keaggler, at the oriental or german convent. This place is large enough; but neither the chapel nor buildings are near fo magnifi- cent as thofe of the two other convents. It is called oriental, becaufe fituated in the eaftern diftrict of the city. Both thefe fathers, and feveral other ecclciia- fticks of inferior rank in this convent, are Germans. One of the fathers was a clock-maker ; and, by fuch means, they frequently infinuate themfelves into ac- quaintance with people of diflinction, who protect them in times of danger. For, in c n i n a, they have ftill a great number of enemies, who would gladly fee both them and their religion extirpated ; but the fa- vour 38 AJOURNEY chap.x. Tour of the prefent Emperor hath hitherto prevented, 1 7 2 °- or difappointed, the defign of fuch perfons. The 1 7th, I fent to inform the captain of the Chi- nese guard, that I intended to take a turn through the city ; who immediately gave orders for a foldier to at- tend me. When we paffed through the gate, the clerk marked our names in his book, and darned them out at our return. I went into feveral mops, where were fold different kinds of merchandife; particularly thofe of the goldfmiths, whofe bufinefs it is to exchange gold for filver, or filver for gold. In thefe (hops are found vaft quantities of thofe valuable metals, caft into bars of different fizes, and piled up one upon another ; which are fold only by weight, as there is no current coin in this country; except one fmall round piece of brafs, with a fquare hole in the middle, through which may be run a firing , for the convenience of carry- ing them to market. This coin, called jofs by the chines e, is about the value of one tenth of a penny fterling; and is extremely ufeful among the common people. With one of them, a man can buy a difh of hot tea, a pipe of tobacco, or a dram of brandy, in the ftreets; and a beggar may dine for three of them. r here are, indeed, few beggars to be feen in the city ; but. T O P E K I N. 39 but, notwithstanding the labour and induftry of the chap.x. inhabitants, they are fo numerous, that it is hard- I 7 2 °» ly poffible to prevent many from being reduced to the utmoft neceffity. There are cooks fhops, where dogs and cats, and fuch other creatures, are drefled for the entertainment of thefe people. Thefe coins have kamhi, the name of the Emperor, on one fide ; and the words tum pao, or the univerfal price, on the other. When the Chinese have occafion to buy any thing, above the value of fixpence, they cut off a piece of fil- ver, and weigh it ; which is done in a trice. Although the want of current coin feems ill calcu- lated for the difpatch of bufinefs, the Chinese find no inconvenience on that account. It is in fo far preferable to money, that it lofes little by wearing in the circula- tion ; which coin does, perhaps, more than is generally imagined. In mod of the fhops I found both men, and women, unveiled. They were extremely complaifant, and gave me a difh of tea in every fhop. Thefe people expofe their gold and filver, and other goods of value, with as much freedom and fecurity, as the merchants do in LONDON or AMSTERDAM. The 40 AJOURNEY chap.x. The 19th, lange and I went to the French con- I 7 2 °* vent, but not one of the ecclefiafticks were at home; having all gone to attend Signor mezzobarba at an audience of the Emperor; except an old gentleman, Monfieur bouvett, who had formerly written a fmall treatife, entitled, " Le portrait de l'Empereur de la " chine;" which he had printed in Europe. The 20th, cold and windy. The 2 1 ft, froft and fnow, which foftened the air, and laid the duft. Next day, the ambaffador, with fecretary lange, went to the council appointed for weftern affairs, and had a conference on the fubject of his embafly. The winter here lafts only about two months; but is very fharp and piercing while the wind is northerly. If the wind, indeed, is foutherly, the air is mild and pleafant, and the sky clear. I mentioned above, that the Chinese have a method of keeping themfelves warm during the cold, which I iball now defcribe as diftinctly as I can. In building a houfe, they make two ftove-holes, one in each fide- wall, about three feet from the gable-end. The holes are a foot fquare ; one ferves for receiving the fewel, and the other to let out the fmokc, when the ftove T O P E K I N. 41 Hove is finifhed. There is a partition of brick, which chap.x. runs from one fide of the houfe to the other, about five 7^f" or fix feet from the gable, and only eighteen inches high; which I (hall call the front of the ftove-bench. Between this and the gable, are built feveral other thin partitions of brick, in a direction at right angles to the firft, having a fmall opening at the extremity of each. For example, fuppofe the paffage in the firft partition to the right hand, and in the fecond to the left; and fo on, alternately, to the laft, which commu- nicates with the hole, on the other fide of the room, for letting out the fmoke. Thefe divifions being made, the whole is arched, or otherwife covered with brick; above which is laid a layer of clay, or plaifter, to prevent the fmoke from rifing through the furface. It is plain, that below this bench there will be a wind- ing channel for the fmoke, from one fide of the room to the other. A few handfuls of brush- wood, firaw, or any kind of fewel, will warm the bench, as much as is neceilary, to work or fleep without feeling cold. It is generally covered with mats, felts, or other thick fluffs, according to the ability of the owner. The 2 2d, Father keaggler came to vifit us. This gentleman had been long in china, and was well ac- Vol. II. F quainted 42 A JOURNEY chap. x. quaintcd with the language, cuftoms, and manners, of l l 2 °' the country. In talking of the extent of pekin, he faid, that nankin is at leaft three times as large. At this rate, nankin muft be one of the largefl: cities in the world. He added, that it was fomewhat diminifh- ed, fincc the court had left that place to refide at pe- kin. Nankin is a place of the moll extenfive com* merce, and contains the greateft manufactories, of all forts of filk and cotton fluffs, of any city in the coun- try; befides thofe of china- ware. It is watered by a fine navigable river, on which are employed an incre- dible number of boats, in carrying merchandife and paflengers. The 23d, cold northerly wind, and ftrong fro ft. The 24th, christmas-eve; the ambaffador heard divine fervice in the russ church. The 25 th, the ambaffador and the whole retinue went to church. The Emperor fent Father fridelly, accompanied by fevcral Mandarins, with a prefent, to his Czarifh Majefty, of fix large boxes of tiles, made of china- warc, lit for fuch floves as are ufed, in Russia, for warming rooms. They were very pretty, blue and white; and, with due care, may laft for ages. January T O P E K I N. 43 January ift, 172 1, the Emperor's general of the ar- ciiap.x. tillery, together with Father fridelly, and a gentle- 1 7 21 - man, called stadlin, an old German, and a watch- maker, dined at the ambaffador's. He was, by birth, a tartar; and, by his converfation, it appeared he was by no means ignorant in his profeffion, particu- larly with refpedr. to the various compofitions of gun- powder ufed in artificial fire-works. I asked him, how long the Chinese had known the ufe of gun-powder? He replied, above two thoufand years, in fire-works, according to their records; but that it's application to the purpofes of war, was only a late introduction. As the veracity and candour of this gentleman were well known, there was no room to queftion the truth of what he advanced on this fubjecl. The converfation then turned on printing. He faid, he could not then afcertain, precifely, the antiquity of this invention; but, was abfolutely certain, it was much ancienter than that of gun-powder. It is to be ob- ferved, that the Chinese print with ftamps, in the manner that cards are made in europe. Indeed, the connection, between itamping and printing, is fo clofe and obvious, that, it is furprifing the ingenious greeks F 2 and 44 AJOURNEY chap.x. and Romans, fo famous for their medals, never difco- ]7^ ' vered the art of printing. On this occafion, Father fridelly told me, that feveral of the miffionaries, who had the good fortune to be in favour with the Emperor, had often folicited that prince to become christian, and allow himfelf to be baptized ; but he always excufed himfelf, by fay- ing, he worfhipped the fame god with the christi- ans-, and that fuch a change of religion might occa- fion fome difturbance in the empire, which by all means he would endeavour to prevent. However this be, it is certain, that, on Christmas day, he fent one of his chief eunuchs to the Italian convent, with orders, that prayers mould be offered for him; which was accordingly done, and the eunuch remained in church all the time of divine fervice. Next day, the ambafTador had another private ai> dience of the Emperor, at the palace of tzan-shu- iang. The weather being very cold, the hall was warmed with feveral large chafing- dimes, filled with charcoal. We ftaid above two hours; during which time his Majefty talked very familiarly, on various fub- jccls, particularly hiftory; wherein he difcovered him- iclf well acquainted with that of the holy fcriptures, as T O P E K I N. 45 as well as of his own country. He faid, that the chro- chap. x. nology of the Chinese was far more ancient than that ' of the holy fcriptures; but obferved, that it ended back in fabulous accounts, concerning which nothing certain could be determined. As to noah's flood, he affirmed, that, at or near the fame time, there was a great deluge in china, which deftroyed all the inhabitants of the plains; but that fuch as efcaped to the mountains were faved. He then difcourfed of the invention of the load- ftone, which, he faid, was known in china above two thoufand years ago; for, it appeared from their re- cords, that, a certain ambafiador, from fome diftant ifland, to the court of china, miffing his courfe, in a ftorm, was caft on the Chinese coaft, in the utmoft diftrefs. The then Emperor, whofe name I have for- got, after entertaining him hofpitably, fent him back to his own country. And, to prevent the like mis- fortunes, in his voyage homeward, gave him a com- pafs to direct his ccurfe. The Emperor alfo confirmed mod of the particulars* mentioned above, concerning printing and gun- pow- der. It is from the holy fcriptures, moft part of which have been tranflated by the mifllonaries, that the learn- ed 46 AJOURNEY chap.x. ed men, in china, have acquired any knowledge of I 7 21, the weftern ancient hiftory. And their own records, they fay, contain accounts of tranfadtions of much greater antiquity. Ac taking leave, the Emperor told the ambaflador that he liked his converfation. He defired to be ex- cufed for fending for him in fuch cold weather, and fmiling faid, he knew the Russians were not afraid of cold. I cannot omit taking notice of the good nature and affability of this ancient monarch, on all occafions. Though he was now in the eightieth year of his age, and flxtieth of his reign, he ftill retained a found judgment, and fenfes in tire; and, to me, fecmed more fprightly than many of the Princes his fons. The 3d, Mr. Secretary lance and I dined at the French convent, where we found Signor mezzobarba. I never had an opportunity of feeing that gentleman at our lodgings; as nothing paiTed between him and our ambaflador, but mefTages of common civility and complement. The 4th, I rode, from our lodgings, through the city, and went out at the north gate, at which we en- tered on our arrival at pekin. I proceeded eaftward to T O P E K I N. 47 to the end of the north wall, and then along the eaft chap. x. wall to the fouth gate, at which I entered, and return- l 7 21 * ed to our lodgings. This tour took me up about two hours and an half, at a pretty round trot; and, at the fame rate, I reckon I could have rode quite round the city in lefs than five hours; whence a judgment may be formed of the circumference of the walls. The fuburbs alfo are very extenilve, efpecially to the eaft and fouth, and, being interfperfed with many bu- rying places, all inclofed with brick-walls, and planted with cyprefs and other ever-greens, contribute much to beautify the neighbourhood of this great city. The Chinese are extremely attentive to the fencing and ornamenting thefe groves, or burying places; a natu- ral confequence of their uncommon refpeft for their parents and relations while living, and of their extra- ordinary veneration for them when dead. Annually, on certain days, they refort to thefe groves, carrying provifions along with them, and celebrate a kind of feaft, in commemoration of their deceafed relations. I ihall give an example of the filial duty of the Chi- nese, in a ftory I have often heard affirmed for true.. A youth, finding his parents reduced to extreme po- verty, and knowing of no means for their relief, went and. 4 8 AJOURNEY chap.x. and fold himfelf as a flave; and, having received the l 7 21 - price from his matter, immediately brought it to his aged parents. When this was fpent, the boy had no other refource than to run away from his mafter, and fell himfelf again to another; and this he practifed for feveral times, with the fame view, although he knew the feverity of the law in fuch cafes. The 6th, while walking through the ftreet, I obfer- ved an old beggar picking vermin from his tattered cloaths, and putting them into his mouth; a practice, which, it feems, is very common among this clafs of people. When a Chinese and tartar are angry at one another, the tartar, in reproach, calls the Chi- nese loufe-eater; and the latter, in return, calls the other rim-skin coat; becaufe the mantzur tartars, who live near the river amoor, fubfift by fifhing, and, in fummer, wear coats made of the skins of fifties. But this habit is ufed only in fummer; for, in winter, they wear furs. The 7th, the Emperor fent us a prefent of various forts of fine fruits, particularly fome excellent oranges. On this occafion, Father fridelly told me, that the tree was ftill (landing at canton, from which the feed was taken that the miffionaries firfl fent to Portugal, where T O P E K I N. 49 where it has profpered fo wonderfully; and, from the chap.x. place whence it was brought, bears the name of the I 7 21 - CHiNA-orange. I doubt not, that, with due care, fome others of the rare fruits and plants in this country, even tea itfelf, might be propagated in Europe, or in fome of the American colonies. I cannot tell whether the coffee tree is to be found in china; but am certain that none of its feeds are prepared and drunk there, as among the Persians, turks, and Europeans. The 8th, the weather was much milder, the wind foutherly, with a fmall mizzling rain, enough to lay the difamreeable dull. Next day, fecretary lange and I rode through the ftreets, to the eaftern convent, to vifit our friend frl- delly. As we pafTed, we obferved a juggler divert- ing a crowd. On our coming near he played feveral tricks with great dexterity. He took an handful of fmall pence, formerly mentioned, with holes in the middle of them, and laid them on a table. He then thruft them into his noftril, one by one, with his finger; and this he continued to perform, till the whole was exhaufted. After this, he fufpended an iron- chain, of round links, about four feet long. He then took a Vol. II. G moufc 50 A JOURNEY chap.x. moufe out of a box, and made it dance upon the tabic, 1 7 21 - quite loofe. Then the moufe, at his order, went in at one link of the chain, and out at another, till it afcended to the top ; from whence it came down an gain, the contrary way, without miffing fo much as one fingle ring. The 1 2 th, the Emperor came from tzan-shu-yang, to his palace in the city. The 13 th, the mafter of the ceremonies came ta invite the ambafTador to court on the 1 5th, the firft day of the new moon; and, according to the Chinese computation, the firft day of the new year. This is one of their higheft feftivals; and what added to the fo- lemnity of the prefent, was its being the beginning of a new feculum, or fpace of fixty years, obferved by the Chinese*, befides, the Emperor had reigned all the lad feculum, and was now going to enter on the fe- cond. On this occafion were to be aflfembled feveral tartar princes ; particularly, the Kutuchtu and the Tufh-du-Chan, together with many perfons of diftinc- tion from korea, and all the dominions of china. This feaft begins on the firft day, and continues during the increafe of the moon. The 1 5th, we went early to court; and found moft of T O P E K I N. 5 t of the grandees affembled in the court-yard, fitting on chap. x. their cuihions, and a few of them in the great hall *7 2U We entered the court at the great gates, which are feldom opened, except on fuch extraordinary occafi- ons. The Emperor foon came, and feated himfelf upon his throne, which was more magnificent than that at tzan-shu-yang ; but, like it, plain and unor- namented. His Majefty was drefled in the fame man- ner as at our firft audience. We were placed, within the hall, on the right of the throne; and Signior mez- zobarba, with the miffionaries, at no great diftance from us. In the mean time, all the people of diftinc- tion, who came from diftant places, made their nine bows, to the ground, without the hall. And, as there was not room in the hall to contain one half of the company, many of them remained in the court during the whole time of the audience. Our entertainment was almoft the fame as at our firft audience ; which, therefore, I fhall not defcribe. The Emperor was very chearful, and fent for feveral of his old acquaintance to fpeak with him. The Tufh-du-Chan and fome other tartar princes were placed on the left of the throne, with the Emperors fons and grandfons. In a word., this afTembly ex- G 2 ceeded 52 AJOURNEY chap. x. ceeded, in number and quality, any thing of the kind l 7^* I ever faw. I was in hopes to have feen the Kutuch- tu on this occafion; but was informed that the Empe- ror, who (hows great refpect to this venerable prieft, detained him in his private apartments. > This palace occupies a large fpace of ground, en- compafled with an high brick-wall. There are feveral ftreets for fervants and officers of the houfhold. Many of the houfes are high, and covered with yellow var- nifhed tiles, which appear like gold in the fun. North- ward from the palace is a large canal, of an irregular figure, where the imperial family divert themfelves by fifhing. This canal is artificial; and the earth dug out of it has raifed an high bank, from whence you have a full view of the city, and the country adjacent, to a confidcrable diftance. This mount rifes to a rid^e, which is planted with trees ; refembling the wild and irregular fcencs of nature that frequently prefent them- felves in this country. The canal and mount are of an equal length, which I compute to be about an En- glish mile. This mud have been a work of vaft ex- pence and labour; and, it mud be confeffed, contri- butes greatly to the beauty of the place. The 1 6th was fpent in receiving vifits of compli- ment, T O P E K I N. 53 merit, from the minifters and officers of the court, on chap. x. occafion of the new year. 1 7 2 1 . Next day, the vifits were returned by Mr. fecretary lange and glazunoff, in name of the ambaf- fador. The 1 8th, fomc of the retinue, accompanied with a Chinese friend, went to a great market, held in the fuburbs, about a mile without the city to the fouth- weft. Here we found a number of toys, and things of value, both new and fecond-hand, expofed to fale in the open ftreet. Near this place flood a magnificent temple, the doors of which being open, we walked into it ; and faw, {landing at the fouth end, a monftrous image, about twenty- five feet high, carved and gilt, having twelve arms and hands, a frightful vifage, and great goggling eyes. By the touch it feemed to be made of a kind of plaifter. This image is called Fo, which fignifies God in the Chinese language. Whilft we walked about in the temple, many people entered, who kneeled and bowed feveral times to the image ; after which they re- tired, without taking notice of us, or of any body elfe. In all the lefTer temples, I had formerly feen, I found a great number of images of inferior deities ; or repu- ted 54 A JOURNEY chap.x. ted faints; but this was occupied by Fo only, without l 7 2l% any rival. From the temple we went to a publick tea-houfe, where we few many people drinking tea and fmoking tobacco ; from thence to a tavern, where we dined ; and, in the evening, returned to the city. Next day, I was prefent at the reprefentation of a kind of farce, in the publick ftreet, not far from our lodgings. There were about twenty ftrollers affem- bled on this occafion, who entertained the crowd with many legerdemain tricks, and unnatural geftures. The ftage was covered with fllk-ftuff of various colours. During the feilival there are many fuch ftage-plays performed in all the publick ftreets. You alfo find of- ten high crofles erected, on which are hoifted a number of pendents and dreamers of party-coloured filks, that make a pretty appearance. At this feafon all the Ihops are fhut ; almoft no bufinefs is done ; and the people go about, drefled in their bed cloaths, as on holidays in EUROPE. The 20th, the ambafiador and all the gentlemen of the retinue were invited to dine, at a publick houfe in the city, by a young Chinese gentleman. And all of us accepted the invitation, except the ambaflador. Our friend T O P E K I N. 55 friend was fo polite as to fend chairs for his gucfts, about chap. x. ten of the clock ; and, at eleven, we reached the houfe, 1 7 2 1 • VYV which was the largeft of that fort I ever faw ; and could eafily contain fix or eight hundred people. The roof was fupported by two rows of wooden pillars. This tavern confided only of one apartment, great part of which was rilled with long tables, having benches, on each fide, for the accommodation of the company. During the time of dinner we were entertained with mufick ; and, after it, by a company of players, main- tained by the houfe, who daily act plays on a ftage e- rected at one fide of die room. None but people of fafhion come to this place. When a perfon intends to treat his friends at one of thefe houfes, he fends previous notice of his defign, with a note of the company, and the fum to be laid out on each of them ; agreeably to thefe orders, things are executed with the greated punctuality. The ex- pence on each of our company could not be lefs than three or four ounces of filver, as we daid the whole day, and had a fplendid entertainment, confiding of many courfes and deferts, prepared and ferved in the bed fafhion of the country. I cannot but obferve, on this occadon alfo, the order and dexterity with which the 56 A JOURNEY chap.x. the fervants performed their parts in fuch a numerous l 7 21 ' affembly. I fhall not pretend to give any account of the play; only, that the company feemed highly plea- fed ; and the performers confifted of both men and women, well drefled, and of decent behaviour. , At feveral tables the people were employed in gam- ing; fome playing at cards, others at dice and draughts. I faw no money among them; though I was informed fome of the Chinese play very high. In the evening, we took leave of our hofpitable friend, and returned to our lodgings. The day following, Father paranim fent us a pre- fent of a large fturgeon, and fome other frefh fifh, brought from the river amoor. Thefe can only be carried, to fuch a diftance, in the coldeft feafon; when they are preferved frefh, by being kept frozen among the fnow. This method is practifed, with fuccefs, in northern countries; for, provided the fKh is immedi- ately expofed to the froit, after being caught, it may be carried, in fnow, for many miles, almoft as frefh as when taken out of the water. The 2 2d, I went along with our new Chinese friend, named siasiey, to fee a manufactory of cniNA-ware, Handing on the bank of the river yu, about twelve En- glish T O P E K I N. 57 glish miles eaftward of the city. After arriving at chap.x. the place, we paffed through feveral (hades and houfes, l 7 21 ' where I faw a number of people at work. The ovens, in particular, feemed very curious. But my view was fo curfory and 'fuperficial, that I could form no judg- ment of the materials, or manner of making thefe cleanly and beautiful veilels, which frill remain unrival- led by the fimilar productions of any other nation. I inquired into the truth of the opinion which the Eu- ropeans entertain, "that the clay muft ly a century, " to digeft, before it is fit for ufe;" and was told, by a mafter workman, that a few months preparation was fufficient. So far as I could obferve, they made no fe- cret, at this place, of what they were employed about. I was, however, told, that, to the fouth, the Chinese are more cautious, and carefully conceal their art from Grangers. One thing I firmly believe, that, although the Europeans underftood the art of making porce- lain, the Chinese would underfell them at every market in the world. This valuable manufacture is carried on in moft of the towns in china ; and, as it is fold but a little above the rate of common earthen- ware in eu- hope, the materials of which it is compofed can ner* ther be rare nor coftly. This important branch of Vol. II. H trade 58 AJOURNEY chap. x. trade brings an immenfe treafure into the country, and 1 7 2lt affords employment to vaft numbers of poor, who, o- therwife, would be ufelefs and burdenfome to the pub- lick. Befides china, they alfo make a kind of delf, or earthen- ware, for the ufe of the lower clafs of people. Next day, I happened to meet two gentlemen from the peninfula of korea. Their phyfiognomies were nearly the fame with thofe of the Chinese; but their drefs different. What furprifed me moll: was, that they were as ignorant of the fpoken Chinese language as I was, and delivered themfelves by an interpreter. When they have any thing material to communicate they put it in writing, which is eafily underflood by the Chi- nese. They write in the fame manner as the Chinese, from the top of the page, in ftraight lines, to the bottom, and with a pencil, like thofe commonly ufed by painters. Korea is a fine country, fubject. to china, fituated betwixt the long wall and the river amoor; and runs out into a point, towards the ifland of japan, and the eastern ocean. The country is very plentiful, and abounds with corn and cattle. CHAR T O P E K I N. 59 CHAP. XI. CHAPTER XL l^O Occurrences at pekin continued; the fejl'wal held at court on the new year, &>c. PHE 24th, the mafter of the ceremonies came to invite the ambaffador to the feflival of the new year, which is always when the moon is at the full, to be held, at the imperial palace of tzang-shu-yang, on the 29th. In the mean time, the cold continued very piercing; fo that I faw horfes, with loaded carriages, crofs the ditches, without the walls pf the city, upon the ice. The 20th, chairs were fcnt from court to carry the ambaffador, and gentlemen of the retinue; we ar- rived there in the evening, and lodged in a houfe near the palace. Near our lodgings was a pretty gar- den, with a canal, on which was a fmall pleafure-boat. In the middle of the canal, was raifed an artificial mount, planted with fome barren trees, in imitation of nature. We afcended, by a winding path, to the top of the mount, from whence we had a fine view of all the country around. The 30th, being the firft day of the feflival, we H 2 went 6o AJOURNEY chap. xi. went to court. We were met at the gate by the mas- 1 * fter of the ceremonies, who conduced us to the bot- torn of the flairs of the great hall, where we took our places, in the open court yard, among a numerous aflembly of grandees, whom we found fitting crofs- kgged on their cufhions. After waiting about a quar- ter of an hour> his Majefty appeared, and feated him- fclf upon the throne; upon which all the company flood. The Chinese made their bows, as is ufual on fuch oc- cafions; but we were permitted to make our compli- ments in our own fafhion. It feemed fomewhat- ftrano;e to a Briton, to fee fome thoufands of people upon their knees, and bowing their heads to the ground, in- mod humble pofture, to a mortal like themfelves. We were immediately brought into the hall; and' the ambaflador was conducted to the throne, in order to* congratulate his Imperial Majefty on the anniverfary of the new year. Our ftation, on this occafion, as at the firft audience, was to the right of the throne.- All the princes, the Emperor's fons and grandfons, to- gether with the Tufh-du-chan, and fome other perfons- of high diftin&ion, were placed to the left, oppofite to- us. As the cuftoms of the cniNEs^are, in many in- stances, quite contrary to thofe of the Europeans ; fo, I T O P E K I N. 61 I have been informed, that, among them, the left hand chap, xl is the place of greateft honour. After we had drunk l J?J^ a di(h of tea, the Emperor beckoned- to the ambaflador to come to him again; and inquired intathe euftoms and ceremonies, at the courts of Europe, on fefti- vals of this nature; adding, at the fame time, " he " had been informed, that, after drinking the kings " health, on fuch occafions, the Europeans broke the glafles. He approved, he faid, of the drinking- part; but did not comprehend the meaning of breaking the glafTes;" and laughed heartily at the joke. The great hall was, by this time, almoft full of com- pany ; and a number of people of diftinc~tion ftill re- mained in the area, who could not find room in the hall. The entertainment now began to be ferved up. The victuals were carried about in great order; and placed, before the company, on large tables. All the dimes were cold, except thofe fee before his Majefty; who fupplied us plentifully with hot provisions, from the throne. Dinner being ended, the fports were begun by a sompany of wreftlers, compofed of Chinese and tar- tars. Many of them were almoft naked, having no cloaths* 62 AJOURNEY chap. xi. cloaths but tight canvafs drawers. They performed *7 21 * their parts in the area before the hall. When any of them was feverely bruifed by his antagonift, or much hurt by a fall, which frequently happened, the Empe- ror fent him a cordial, and ordered him to be proper- ly taken care of. Sometimes alfo, when he perceived the combatants too eager and warm, a fign was given to part them. Thefe inftances of humanity were ve- ry amiable in the old monarch, and rendered the fight of fuch mocking fpectacles more tolerable ; for many of thefe wreftlers received fuch blows and falls, as were fufficient to have knocked the breath out of their bodies. To the wreftling fucceeded many other games, and mock- fights; in which, the performers, armed, fome with lances, others with battle-axes, quarter-ftafTs, flails, or cudgels, a£ted their parts with great dexterity. Then appeared two troops of tartars, clothed in coats of tiger-skins, armed with bows and arrows, and mounted on hobby-horfes. At firft, they behaved as enemies; but, after fome skirmifhes with their arrows, the parties were reconciled, and began a dance to a difmal tune of vocal and inftrumental mufick. The dance was interrupted by a perfon in a frightful mask, of a tall ftature, drefled and mounted like the tartars, who, T O P E K I N. 63 who, they faid, reprefented the devil. After making chap.xi. feveral unfuccefsful attacks, on the united body of the l 7 2 ] tartars, this formidable hero was at length killed by an arrow, and carried off in triumph. During the dance, each tartar had a fmall basket in one hand, and an arrow in the other, wherewith they fcraped on the basket, keeping time to the mufick. This fcrap- ing founded a little harfh to an Italian ear; for I could obferve Signor mezzobarba, and his recinue, fmiling at the performance. While the tartars performed in the court, one of the Emperor's fons, a Prince of about twenty years of age, danced alone in the hall, and at crafted the eyes of the whole company. His motions were, at firft, very flow, fo that he feemed fcarcely to move at all; but, af- terwards, became more brisk and lively. The Emperor was chearful, and feemed well pleafed with the different performers; but particularly with an old tartar, who played on a chime of little bells, with two fhort ivory rods. The inftruments of mufick were very various, and all tuned to the Chinese tafte. The Emperor told the ambaffador, that he knew well their mufick would not pleafe an European ear; but that every na- tion liked their own bell. The 64 AJOURNEY chap. xi. The dancing being over, there was hoifted up a 1 7 2 1# large vefTel, refembling a tub, between two pofts erect- ed in the area for that purpofe. In the veflel were placed three boys, who performed many dexterous tricks, both in the veilel and on the pofts, too tedious to mention. By this time the fun was fet, and the company were foon after difmhTed for the night. Next day, the rejoicings were renewed. We did not, however, go to court before the evening; becaufe the fire- works would not begin till the fun was fet. On our arrival, we were conducted through a garden, weftward from the palace, in the middle of which flood a large building, with covered galleries all around. Be- fore the houfe was a canal, having over it a draw- bridge. We took our places on the gravel- walk, juft under the gallery, where the Emperor fat with his wives and family. Hard by us was the Kutuchtu, in his tent, having one of his lamas (landing at the door. This prieft never once appeared out of his tent, du- ring the whole (how. Ail the grandees and officers of (late were feated on their cu(hions, along the bank of the canal. The machinery, for the fire- works, was placed on the other fide of the canal; and nobody was permit- TO P E K I N. #5 permitted to go thither, except the people who ma- chap. xi. naged it. ^ l J^ About five of the clock a fignal was given, for be- ginning to play off the fire-works, by a rocket let fly from the gallery where the Emperor fat; and, in the fpace of a few minutes, marry thoufand lanterns were lighted. Thefe lanterns were made of paper of diffe- rent colours, red, blue, green, and yellow; and hung on ports about fix feet high, Scattered over all the garden; which exhibited a very pleafant profpect to the eye. Another fignal was then given, for playing off the rockets. They fprung upwards to a prodigious height, and fell down m figures of ftars, difplaying a great va- riety of beautiful colours. The rockets were accom- panied with what I fhall call crackers, for want of a more proper name. Their explofion refembled the reports of many great guns, fired at certain intervals, and exhibited a view of many charming colours, and forms of fire. Thefe, with a few fire- works of diffe- rent kinds, intermixed, continued for the fpace of three hours. Oppofite to the gallery where the Emperor fat, was fufpended a large round veffel, about twenty feet in diameter, between two pofts about thirty feet high. Vol. II. I A 66 A JOURNEY chap. xi. A rocket fenc from the gallery lighted a match, hang- 1 7 2 1 ' ing from the veflel, which immediately caufed the bot- tom of it to drop down with a loud noife. Then fell out a lettice, or grate- work, all on fire, and hung be- tween the veflel and the ground, burning furioufly, in various colours. This continued for ten minutes, and really exhibited a mod: curious fight. It feems, this lettice-work was compofed of materials that imme- diately kindled, on being expofed to the air*, for no perfon was feen near the machine. The grate- work being exxinguifhed, there appeared a lighted match, hanging from the middle of the vef- fcl, and burning up to it. As foon as the fire reached the veflel, thirty fair paper-lanterns, of various colours, dropped from it; and hung, in a ftraight line, below one another, between it and the ground ; which im- mediately catched fire of themfelves, and formed a beautiful and well-proportioned column of parti- co- loured light. After this, fell out about ten or twelve pillars of the fame form, but of a lefler fize; thefe alfo took fire as foon as they dropped. Thisfcene conti- nued till the number of one thoufand lanterns fell; ficom the veflel, which diminiihed, every time, till the laft T O P E K I N. 67 laft were very fmall. I muft confefs this prefented acHAP.xi. delightful object to the fpectators. I y Z^ v * I could not help being furprized at the ingenuity of the artift, in crowding fuch a number of lanterns into fo fmall and fimple a machine as this feemed to be; and, at the fame time, with fo much order, that all of them dropped and kindled of themfelves, with equal regularity, as if he had let them fall from his hand; for not even one of them was extinguifhed by accident, or in the lead entangled by another. This concluded the rirft day's entertainment. The 31ft, in the evening, we returned to court > where was opened a new fcene of fire- works, which continued, with great variety, till ten o'clock at night. The 1 ft of February, we went again to court; where the fire-works were refumed in many different, well- executed, defigns. What pleafed me moft, was a fmall mount, raifed in the middle of the garden, from which fprung a ftream of white and blue fire, in imitation of water. The top of the mount contained a cavity, in fhape of a large urn, from which the fire rofe to a pro- digious height. Oppofite to the gallery, where the Emperor fat, were erected three large frames, about thirty feet high I 2 each* 6S A JOURNEY chap. xi. each. On one was a monftrous figure of a dragon ;- J 7 21 • on the fecond, a man on horfeback; and the third re- prefented an elephant, with a human figure on his back. All thefe were compofed of a deep blue fire;, and were interwoven with vines and grapes, hanging^ about on all fides-, of white, red, and blue fire. Befides thefe, there were exhibited, on this occafion,i many other ingenious defigns of fire- works ; which far furpaffed any thing of the kind, I ever faw, though I have been prefent at performances of this nature, exhi- bited, at st. Petersburg, by the beft artifts in Europe. Befides the art difplayed in the contrivance and figure, thefe works furnifhed, in particular, a wonderful varie- ty of mod beautiful colours, far exceeding my ability, to defcribe. I- muft confefs, they far outdid my ex- pectations, and even common fame, which feldom lef- fens things of this nature. The following day, the Emperor gave the ambafla- dor a private. audience, and inquired how he liked the- diverfions and lire- works. On this occafion, the Em-* peror repeated what has been already, obferved con- cerning the antiquity of illuminations compofed of gun-powder; and added, that, although fire- works had :ccn known in china for more than two thoufancj- years. TO P E K I N. 6cv years, he himfelf had made many improvements upon chap. xi. them, and brought them to their prefent perfection. 1 7 2 * • The 3d, we returned to the city, in a cold frofty day, and the wind at north- weft. We found the re- joicings ftill going onatPEKiN; for ftages were erec- ted, and plays reprefented, in all the principal ftreets through which we pafTed. The affairs relating to the embafly being nearly fi- nifhed, we began now to prepare for our journey to the weftward ; which was to take place as foon as the extremity of the cold was abated. The 9th, three miflionaries, paranim, d email, and moran, came to pay their refpects to the ambafTador r and beg the favour of him, that Signior nicolai, one of their fociety, might be permitted to accompany him in his journey to -Europe;, which was granted, provi- ded it was agreeable to the Emperor. The reafon of this requeft was fuppofed to be, that, Signior mezzo- barba having returned to rome, without accomplirt> ing the ends of his embafly ; the Emperor, who fa-, voured the caufe of the j e s u i t s, . had concerted with them, to fend nicolai to the court of rgme, in order to reprefent the flate of this affair, before mezzobarea could arrive. 70 AJOURNEY chap. xi. Next day, the Emperor fent three officers with pre* 1 7 2lt fents to his Czarifh Majefty; the chief of which were, tapiftry for two rooms, neatly wrought on a rich filk- ftuff; a fet of fmall enamelled gold cups ; fome japan- ned cups, fet with mother of pearl ; three flower-pieces, curioufly embroidered on taffety ; two chefts of rock- ets, prepared in the Chinese fafhion; about twenty or thirty pieces of filk, in moft of which was interwoven the dragon with five claws ; a parcel of different forts of curious fans for ladies ; alfo, a box containing fome rolls of white Chinese paper, the fheets of which were of a fize much larger than common ; befides feveral other toys, fcarce worth mentioning. From thefe par- ticulars it appears, that thefe two mighty monarchs were not very lavifh in their prefents to each other ; preferring curiofities to things of real value. The 1 1 th, feveral officers came, from court, with prefents to the ambafTador, and every perfon of the retinue, correfponding to their different ftations and characters ; and, fo minutely and exactly was this mat- ter managed, that even the meaneft of our fervants was not neglected. The prefents, confuting of a com- plete Chinese drefs, fome pieces of damasks, and other (tuffs, were, indeed, of no great value. They were, how- T O P E K I N. 71 however, carried along the ftreets, wrapped up in yel- chap.xi. low filk, with the ufual parade of things belonging to *? 2 ■ " the court ; a circumftance which is reckoned one of the greateft honours that can be conferred on a foreign minifter. Next day, the Emperor fent to ask the ambaflador, whether he inclined to accompany him to a hunting- match, in a foreft not far diftant from pekin ; to which his excellency readily agreed. The 1 3th, I dined with one of my Chinese friends, called fang fung. In going thither, I met, in the ftreet, two men riding upon afles, with their fervants leading them by the bridle. I foon perceived they were kawlees; which is the name given, by the Chinese and tartars, to the people of korea ; whom I have mentioned above. The 14th, the weather was very fine and warm. The 15th, we went to a fair in the fuburbs, which is held the firft day of every new moon, where we found many things expofed to fale, not commonly found in fhops. The 1 6th, the weather being favourable, I took a ride round the walls of the city; which I performed, at an eafy trot, in the fpace of four hours ; whereby the 72 A JOURNIY chap. xi. the compafs of pekin may be nearly computed. The I 7 21 * fuburbs, efpecially to the eaft and fouth, are very ex- tenfive ; and, in many places of them, the buildings are equal to thofe within the walls. The 17 th, being now on the point of our depar- ture, in order to make the mod of the fhort time we had to ftay, I rode about twelve miles eaft ward from pekin, accompanied with a Chinese friend, to the bamts of the river ; which I found crowded with a num- ber of barques, of different fizes, which are conftancly employed in carrying provifions, and other (tores, to the city, from diftanc parts of the country. I faw ma- ny vefTels failing down the ftream, towards the fouth- eaft. • And I was informed, there are nine thoufand nine hundred and ninty nine vefTels conftantly employed on this river; but why confined to fuch an odd number I could neither learn, nor comprehend. During a month, or fix weeks, in winter, this river is frozen over; at which feafon, provifions are conveyed by land- carriage, or along the ice. On this occafion alfo I revifited the cHiNA-manu- fa&ory, in order to try whether I could learn any thing of that curious art. But, though the people were ve- jy complaifant, and (ho wed me every thing I defired them, T O P E K I N. 73 them, I returned as ignorant as I went thither ; and, chap. xi. I am perfuaded, that, before a perfon can get any know- ]^tl* ledge of the affair, he mufl be bred a potter, and have time to infpect its whole progrefs ; of which thefe peo- ple feem to make no fecret. The fields, along the banks of the river, are well cultivated; producing fine wheat, and other forts of grain. I faw alfo great plantations of tobacco, which they call tharr, and which yields very confiderable pro- fits; as it is univerfally ufed in fmoking, by perfons of all ranks, of both fexes, in china; and, befldes, great quantities are fent to the mon galls, who prefer the Chinese manner of preparing it before every other. They make it into a grofs powder, like faw duft, which they keep in a fmall bag, and fill their little brafs-pipes out of it, without touching the tobacco with their fin- gers. The fmoke is very mild, and has quite a diffe- rent fmell from ours. It is reported the Chinese have had the ufe of tobacco for many ages. I obferved, that, in cold weather, the Chinese chew- ed a kind of nut, about the bignefs of a nutmeg, which they called beetle; it is of an aftringent quality. They fay, it both keeps them warm and cleans their teeth. Next day was fpent in preparing for our journey. Vol. II. K On 74 A JOURNEY chap. xi. On the 1 8th, all our gentlemen dined with my chi- l J 2 ^' nese friend, named siasiey, where we met with a friendly reception, and a fumptuous feaft. After din- ner, our hofpi table landlord put about his cups very freely. At laft, he took me by the hand, and defired I would let the ambaflador return and remain with him ; and he would give me my choice of which of his wives or daughters I liked belt. I could not but return my friend hearty thanks for his obliging offer; which,, however, I thought it not proper to accept. Next day, I went to fee the market where provifions were fold. It was a fpacious oblong, fpread with gra- vel, very neat and clean. The butchers had their fhops in a fhade, running quite round the place. I faw little beef, but a great deal of mutton. In the middle, was great (lore of poultry, wild-fowl, and venifon; but, what furprifed me not a little, was, to find about a dozen of dead badgers expofed to fale. The Chinese, it feems, are very fond of thefe animals; which are accounted unclean in other parts of the world. All the Chinese merchants have the art of expofing their goods to fale drcfTed up in the mod advantageous manner; and, even in purchafing any trifling thing, whatever the cafe be that T O P E K I N. 7 j that holds it, it is half the coft, and often exceeds it in chap. xi. value. ^ 2U The 2 1 ft, being the day appointed for hunting with the Emperor, at one of the clock in the morning, hor- fes were brought to our lodgings, for the ambafTador and thofe who attended him. We immediately mount- ed, and, after riding about fix miles, to the fouth-weft of the city, at break of day, we reached the gates of the park called chayza; where we were received by an officer, and conducted, through the foreft, to a fum- mer-houfe, about a mile from the gate, in which the Emperor had flept the preceding night. This was a fmall but neat building, having a double row of gal- leries, open to the foreft, on all fides, and an avenue leading to it from the gate, planted with feveral rows of trees. At fome diftance from the houfe, we dis- mounted, and were met by the mafter of the ceremo- nies, who conducted us into a gallery. As foon as we entered, the good old Emperor, who had rifen long before our arrival, fent one of his eunuchs to falute the ambafTador, and ordered us tea and other victuals. On the fouth fide of the houfe is a canal, filled with clear water, and feveral large fifh-ponds, which make a great addition to the beauties of this charming place. K 2 At j6 A JOURNEY chap. xi. At a convenient diftance from the houfe, flood about I 7 2lt a thoufand tents, where the courtiers and grandees had lodged the night before. Breakfaft being over, the Emperor, who was very fond of arms, fent to defire a fight of the ambafTador's fowling-piece. He returned it, with feveral of his own to be fhown us. They had all match-locks. The Chinese are poflefled with a notion, that flints, in their climate, acquire a moifture which hinders their firing. But, as far as I could per- ceive, the air had little effect upon our flints. A fignal was then given that the Emperor was com- ing; upon which all the great men drew up in lines, from the bottom of the flairs to the road leading to the foreft, all on foot, drefled in their hunting habits, the fame with thofe ufed by the officers and cavalry of the army, when in the field, and armed with bows and arrows. We had a proper place afTigned us, and made our bows to his Majefty, who returned a gracious fmile, with figns to follow him. He was feated, crofs- legged, in an open machine, carried by four men, with long poles refted on their fhoulders. Before him lay a fowling-piece, a bow, and fbeaf of arrows. This has been his hunting equipage for fome years, fince he left off riding; but, in his youth, he went ufual- T O P E K I N. 77 ly, every fummer, feveral days-journey without the chap. xr. long wall, and carried along with him all the Princes l 7 21 * his fons, and many perfons of diftinclion, to the num- ber frequently of fome thoufands, in order to hunt in the woods and deferts; where he continued for the fpace of two or three months. Their provifions were redacted to bare neceflaries, and often to what they caught in the woods of tartar y. This piece of policy he pra&ifed chiefly with a view to harden the officers of his army, and prevent their falling into idle- nefs and effeminacy among the Chinese; and, at the fame time, to fet a good example of the aufterities he recommended, by living on the fame hard fare he pre- ferred to others. As foon as the Emperor had palTed, the company mounted and followed him, at fome diftance, till we came into the open foreft, where all formed into a femicircle, in the centre of which was the Empe- ror, having on his left hand about eight or ten of his fons and grandfons, and the ambaflador on his right, about fifty paces diftant; clofe by him, were the matter of the chace, with fome grey- hounds, and the grand falconer with his hawks. I could not but admire the beauty of thefe fine birds. Many of them were as white 78 AJOURNEY chap. xi. white as doves; having one or two black feathers in 7 21 * their wings or tails. They are brought from Siberia, or places to the north of the river amoor. Our wings being extended, there were many hares ftarted, which the company endeavoured to drive to- wards the Emperor, who killed many of them with arrows as they palled; thofe he miffed, he made a fign to fome of the Princes to purfue, who alfo killed feve- ral of them with arrows ; but no other perfon was per- mitted to draw a bow, or ftir from the line. The fame rules of hunting, I formerly obferved, are prac- tifed by the mongalls. From the open field, we continued our route weft- ward, to a place among thickets and tall reeds, where we fprung a number of pheafants, partridges, and quails. His Majefty then laid afide his bow and arrows, and carried a hawk on his hand ; which he flew as occafion offered. The hawks generally raked in the pheafants while flying; but, if they took the reeds or bufhes, they foon caught them. After proceeding about two or three miles farther into the foreft, we came to a tall wood, where we found feveral forts of deer. The young men went in and beat the woods, whilft the reft of the company remain- ed T O P E K I N. 79 cd without. We faw much game pafs us; but nobo chap.xi. dy drew a bow, till the Emperor had killed a flag, *7 21 - which he did very dexteroufly, with a broad-headed arrow; after which the Princes had leave to kill feve- ral bucks ; among which was one of that fpecies, that bears the musk, called kaberda in Siberia, of which I have formerly given a defcription. The Chinese musk is ftronger, and therefore preferable to that from northern parts. We had now been fix hours on horfe-back, and, I reckon, had travelled about fifteen English miles; but no end of the foreft yet appeared. We turned fhort from this wood fouth wards, till, coming to fome marfhes, overgrown with tall reeds, we roufed a great many wild boars; but, as it was not the feafon for killing them, they all efcaped. The hunting thefe fierce animals is reckoned the moft dangerous of all kinds of fport, except the chace of lions and tigers. Every one endeavoured to avoid them, and feveral of them run furioufly through the trucked troops of horfe. The Emperor was fo cautious as to have a company of men, armed with lances, to guard his machine. We continued the fport till about four o'clock, when we came to a high artificial mount ; of a fquare figure, So A JOURNEY chap. xi. figure, raifed in the middle of a plain, on the top of I 7 2lt which were pitched about ten or twelve tents, for the imperial family. This mount had feveral winding paths leading to the top, planted, on each fide, with tows of trees, in imitation of nature. To the fouth was a large bafon of water, with a boat upon it; from whence, I fuppofe, the earth has been taken that form- ed this mount. At fome diftance from the mount, tents were erected for the people of diftinction, and officers of the court. About two hundred yards from it, we were lodged in fome clean huts, covered with reeds. The Emperor, from his fituation, had a view of all the tents, and a great way farther into the fo- Teft. The whole fcene made a very pretty appearance. As foon as we alighted, the matter of the ceremo- nies was fent, by the Emperor, to ask the ambafTador how he liked their manner of hunting. He made a fuitable return, acknowledging, at the fame time, the great honour done him on this occafion. The Emperor then fent us great plenty of drefTed provifions of all kinds ; and the officer, who brought them, pointed out feveral difhes , which his Majefty fent from his own table, confiding of mutton, venifon, pheafants, and other forts of wild fowl. After T O P E K I N. 8r After dinner, the Emperor .fent two of his chief eu- chap.xi. nuchs to compliment the ambaflador ; and inform 1 7 21 * him, that he intended to entertain him with the bait- ing of three tigers, which had been kept fbme time, cooped up in a ftrong grate-work, for that purpofe. The hill, where the Emperor's tent flood, was fur- rounded with feveral ranks of guards, armed with long fpears. A guard, alfo, was placed before the ambarTador's, and the reft of the tents, to fecure the whole encampment from the fury of thefe fierce ani- mals. The firft was let out by a perfon mounted on a fleet horfe, who opened the door of the coop by means of a rope tied to it. The tiger immediately left his cage, and feemed much pleafed to find himfelf at liberty. The horfeman rode off at full fpeed ; while the tiger was rolling himfelf upon the grafs. At laft he rofe, and growled, and walked about. The Empe- ror fired twice at him with bullets; but, the diftance being confiderable, miffed him, though the pieces were well pointed. Upon which his Majefty fent to the ambaffador, to try his piece upon him ; which being charged with a fingle ball, he walked towards the ani- mal, accompanied by ten men, armed with fpears, in Vol. II. L cafe &2 A JOURNEY chap. xi. cafe of accidents ; till, being ac a convenient diftance;. Ji * ' he took his aim, and killed him on the fpot. The fecond was let out in the fame manner. The horfeman, retiring a little, left the creature rolling up- on the grafs, like the firft. He then returned, and fhoc at him with a blunted arrow; which roufed the ani- mal to fuch a pitch, and made him purftie fo clofely,. that the horfeman narrowly efcaped within the ranks,, where the furious tiger, endeavouring to leap over the men's heads, was killed at the foot of the mount. The third, as foon as he was fet at liberty, run di- rectly towards the Emperor's tent; and was, in like manner, killed with the fpears. A man muft be well mounted and armed, who hunts this kind of animals, in the woods; where they muft, be much ftronger and' fwifter than thefe we faw, which had been confined for many months, and whofe limbs,by want of exercife, were become (tiff and unwieldy; but, notwithstanding this, difadvantage, the courage and nimblenefs even of thefe animals was very furprifing. I have feen four forts of :hcm, die tiger, panther, leopard, and lynx, which are all very fierce ; but the firft is the largeft and ftrongeft. The Emperor, in his youth, was very fond of hunt- ng thefe creatures in the woods of tartary; but,. now,, T O V E K I W. £ ? •how, he confines himfelf within the limits of the fo- chap.xi. reft, where there is game fufficient to gratify any 1 7 21 - fportfman. The killing of the tigers finifhed the diverflon of the day; after which we retired to our huts, where we were entertained with a plentiful fupper, fent us by the Emperor. After fupper, an officer was fent from his Majefty to the ambaffador, who brought the tigers skin he had fhot ; telling him, that, by the laws of hunting, he had a right to it. Next morning, the fport was refumed, and varied little from that of the preceding day. About three o'clock, afternoon, we came to another fummer-houfe in the middle of the foreft, where the Emperor lodged the following night; while we lay in a fmall neat tem- ple in the neighbourhood; and were entertained, by his Majefty, in the fame manner as before. The 23d, about eight of the clock in the morning, the mafter of the ceremonies waited on the ambafla- dor, in order to conduct him into his Majefty's pre- fence, to receive his audience of leave. The Emperor received him, in a moft friendly manner, in his bed- chamber. He repeated his affurances of the great friendihip he entertained for his Czarifh Majefty; and L 2 expref- $4 A JOURNEY chap. xi. expreffed great refpect for the perfonal merit of the- 1 7 2 * • ambafTador. After which the ambaflador took leave ; and we returned to our lodgings in the city. I: (hall only obferve further, that this foreft is really a moil delightful place ; is well ftored with variety o£ game; and is of great extent,, as will eafily be conceit ved from the account I have given of our two days hunting. It is all inclofed with a high wall of brick. The value of this park, fo near the capital, fhows the magnificence of this powerful monarch. The 24th-, the ambaflador was invited, by the pre- sident of the college of ma thema ticks, to fee the ob- fervatory; which is fituated immediately within the eaft wall, and commands an extenfive profpect. The building is not magnificent ; but is furnifhed with a line armillary fphere, globes, telefcopes, an orrery in good order, and other mathematical inftruments of the heft European workmanfhip. This college was erec- ted by the prcfent Emperor, who fpares no coft to bring it to perfection ; and the meancft of his fubje6ls r who difecver a genius for fcience, or any ufeful art, are tine to meet with due encouragement. The Chinese are indebted to the prefent Emperor for what progrefs they have made in aflronomy. He chiefly. T O P E K I N. 85 ehiefly promoted this ftudy by countenancing the je-chap.xi. suits and other mifTionaries ; fori have been inform- I 7 21 - ed, that, before their arrival in this country, the inha- bitants could fcarcely calculate an eclipfe* The Chi- nese, it is indeed pretended, underftood aftronomy previous to that period ; but the knowledge of it was- in a great meafurc loft, during the many fatal revolu-. tions of the empire. From the obfervatory we afcended, by a broad ri* fing paffage, to the top of the city -wall ; where we fa w about fifteen horfemen riding their rounds; which,, we were told, they performed day and night, at da- ted times. The wall is built of brick, and is about? twenty- five or thirty feet high; having embrafures, and' fquare towers, at equal diftances; and a wide deep: ditch, which may be rilled with water at pleafure. On the top of the wall there is a pleafant walk, broad enough for fifteen horfemen to ride a-breaft. I fup- pofe the whole is, perhaps, not compofed of folid bricks, but the middle filled up with earth and rubbiih. The 25th, we went to all the three convents, and took leave of our friends the mifHonaries. The 26th, the ambaffador went to the tribunal for foreign affairs, and received a letter from the Emperor to 86* A JOURNEY chap. xi. to his Czarifh Majefly. On this occafion the prefi- *7 21 ' dent acquainted his excellency, that he mint confider this letter as a lingular mark of favour to his mafter, as their Emperors were not in ufe to write letters of compliment to any prince ; or, indeed, to write letters of any kind, except thofe which contained their orders to their fubjects; and, that the Emperor difpenfed with fo material a cuftom, only, to teftify his refpect for his Czarifh Majefly. The original of this letter was in the Chinese lan- guage, and a copy of it in the mongalian. It was folded up in a long roll, according to the cuftom in china, and wrapped in a piece of yellow filk, which was tied to a man's arm, and carried, in proceffion, be- fore the ambafTador. All perfons on horfeback, whom we mec, difmounted, and flood till we had parTed them, Such veneration do thefe people pay to every thing belonging to the Emperor. The fame day, the ambafTador had a vifit from a young gentleman, a defcendent of the famous Chi- nese philofopher confucius; whofe memory and works are greatly refpected in china. From what I could learn of this eminent philofopher, he appears to have been a perfon of extraordinary parts, extenfive know- T O P E K I N, 87 knowledge, and examplary virtue. On account of chap. xu. fuch rare qualities, his family is flill honoured and e- x 7 2! * fteemed even by the Emperor himfelf. CHAPTER XII. Some account of the prefent Emperor 0/* china, the chine&e ivall, &c. T>EFORE we leave china, I mall make a few ge- neral remarks, on the people and country, drawn from the belt information I could procure ; and fhall begin with the long wall. The long, or endlefs wall, as it is commonly called, encompafles all the north and weft parts of china. It was built, about fix hundred years ago, by one of the Emperors, to prevent the frequent incurfions of the mon galls, and other weftern tartars, who made a practice of aflembling numerous troops of horfe, and invading the country in different places. The Chinese frontiers were too extenfive to be guarded againil fuch bold and numerous enemies; who, after plundering and deftroying a wealthy country, returned to their, own, loaded with fpoils. The. Chinese finding all precautions ineffectual to S uc 88 AJOURNEY chap. xii. put a flop to the inroads of fuch barbarians, at laft I 7 2K refolved to build this famous wall. It begins in the province of leotong, at the bottom of the bay of nankin; and proceeds a-crofs rivers, and over the tops of the higheft mountains, without interruption, keeping nearly along the circular ridge of barren rocks that furround the country to the north and weft; and, after running fouthwards about twelve hundred En- glish miles, ends in impafTable mountains and fandy deferts. The foundation confifts of large blocks of fquare ftones laid in mortar; but the reft of the wall is built of brick. The whole is fo ftrong, and well built, as to need almoft no repair ; and, in fuch a dry climate, may remain in this condition for many ages. It's heigh th and breadth are not equal in every place; nor, indeed, is it necelTary they fhould. When carried over fteep rocks, where no horfe can pafs, it is about fifteen or twenty feet high, and broad in proportion ; but, when running through a valley, or crofting a river, there you fee a ftrong wall, about thirty feet high, with fquare towers, at the diftance of a bow- (hot from one another, and embrafures at equal diftances. The top of the wall is flat, and paved with broad free-ftone ; and T O P E K I N. 89 and where it rifes over a rock, or any eminence, you chap. xii. afcend by a fine eafy ftone-ftair. 1 7 2 1 . The bridges, over rivers and torrents, are exceeding- ly neat, being both well contrived and executed. They have two ftories of arches, one above another, to af- ford fufKcient paffage for the waters on fudden rains and floods. This wall was begun and completely finifhed in the ipace of five years; every fixth man in china being obliged to work himfelf, or find another in his ftead. It is reported, the labourers flood fo clofe, for many miles diftance, as to hand the materials from one to another. This I am the more inclined to believe, as the rugged rocks would prevent all ufe of carriages; nor could clay, for making bricks or cement, of any kind, be found among them. The building of this wall, however, was not the only burden the Chinese fupported, on this occafion. They were alfo obliged to keep a numerous army in the field, to guard the paffes of the mountains, and fecure the labourers from being interrupted by their watch- ful enemies the tartars, who, all the while, were not idle fpectators. I am of opinion, that no nation in the world was Vol. II. M able oo A JOURNEY chap. xii. able for fuch an undertaking, except the Chinese. For, 1 7 21 * though fome other kingdom might have furnifhed a fufficient number of workmen, for fuch an enterprife, none but the ingenious, fober, and parfimonious Chi- nese could have preferved order amidft fuch multi- tudes, or patiently fubmitted to the hardfhips attend- ing fuch a labour. This furprifing piece of work, if not the greateft, may juftly be reckoned among the wonders of the world. And the Emperor, who plan- ned and completed it, deferves fame, as much fuperior to his who built the famous Egyptian pyramids, as a performance of real ufe excells a work of vanity. Befides the main wall, there are feveral femicircular walls, which have the long wall for their diameter, at the places leafl fortified by nature, and at the open pafTes of the mountains. Thefe are ftrongly built, of the fame materials and architecture with the lone wall, and are of confidcrable extent, fometimes on one fide of die main wall, and fometimes on the other. In thefe walls are ftrong gates, conftantly defended by a numerous guard. They are intended to prevent a fur- prife, and flop fudden irruptions of the enemy. Even thefe lcfTcr bulwarks feem works of great expence and labour; but nothing in comparifon with the long wall. After T O P E K I N. 91 After the Chinese had finifhed their wall, they had chap. xn. refpite for a confiderable time, from the invafions of l 7 2lm . ... * before we landed. Some days after our arrival, Mr. ismayloff was feized with a fever; which went off in a few days, without any bad confequences. We wait- ed here for our baggage, which did not arrive till the fecond of July. During this time, little remarkable happened. We diverted ourfelves with hunting and fifhing; and, though we lived much at our eafe, the time grew tedious, and we wanted much to be gone. About the i oth of May, the ice began to break up, in the baykal, and continued floating down the river, for fome days, in great fhoals. The weather was very hot, before the ice came down ; but when this happen- ed, an alteration was fenfibly felt; for the air, about the fides of the river, became extremely chilly. A {mall part only of the ice, about the mouth of the An- gara, floats down that river, the reft, being fcattered along the more by the winds, is melted down as the feafon advances. This is accounted the moft unheal- thy feafon of the year; as people, notwithstanding all pofllble precautions, are very apt to catch cold. I have already made fome remarks on Irkutsk y, and the country adjacent; I fhall therefore only add, that in fummer, which is very hot, the country is much pefter- ed T O r E K I N. 1 29 id with fwarms of muskicoes and large gnats; which chap.xih. are fo troublefome, that thofe who have occafion to 20 I 7 2I « into the fields are obliged to wear nets of horfe-hair, to defend their faces from the attacks of thefe infecls. July 2d, the barks arrived fafe from selinginsky, with our people and baggage. They told us many difmal ftories of the hardfhips they had fuffered in paf- fing the defert; but, on comparing notes, the diffe- rence was not great berween their misfortunes and our own. After our people had retted a few days, and necef- faries were procured for the voyage, on the 5th, they moved off, and rowed down the Angara. The ambafla- dor, myfelf, and two fervants, ftaid behind, in order to proceed in a fmall fhallop, which had a little cabbin in the (tern, and was rowed with ten oars. The com- mandant caufed it to be built for our ufe ; and as it failed quickly, and was rowed by our own men, we could purfue the voyage, at pleafure, without being confined to attend upon the heavy barks. The 7th, we went on board, accompanied by the commandant and feveral other gentlemen, and fell down the river to a monaftery in the neighbourhood, where we were invited to dine with the fuperior, who Vol. II. R made i 3 o AJOURNEY CHAP.xin.made us a grand entertainment of excellent fiih; and *7 21 ' furniihed us, befides, with ftore of provifions for our voyage. In the evening we took leave of the abbot, and the reft of our friends*, and, being afTifted by a ra- pid current, went down the river at a great rate. At night we put afhore, and took up our quarters in a vil- lage. As little of importance occurred during the pro- grefs of our voyage, I need not be particular in defcrib* ing it. The banks of the river, on both fides, are pleafant and fruitful, and beautifully diverfified with tall woods, villages, and corn-fields-, and we found e- very-where great abundance of fifh. But what renders this fine country extremely difagreeable, is the fwarms of muskitoes, with which every part of it is infefted. The gnats, about ilimsky in particular, are of a much larger fize, and are reckoned more venomous than any in Siberia ; but have this good quality, that they ne- ver enter houfes, as the muskitoes do. The tongu- ses, when they are angry with any perfon, wiih that an ilimsky gnat may fting him. This may appear but a flight punilhment; but it marks the character of thefe fimple people. The c^th, we failed the whole day, with a fair wind and T O P E K I N. 131 and ftrong current; and, in the evening, overtook ourciiAP.xur. barques. Next day, we came to a great cataract, cal- 1 7 21 - led pa dun from the fteepnefs of the fall. This fall we palled fafely, as there was water enough upon the rocks for our vcfTels. The next cataract we met with, which, from its great length, is called dolgoy, was reckoned more dangerous ; for, befides the length and deepnefs of the palTage, it was extremely crooked, wind- ing from one fide to another by turns, among rocks and great (tones. In patting thefe cataracts, the pilot fits upon the bow of the vefTel, and makes figns, with his cap, to the people at the helm, which way to fleer ; for the waters, dafhing againft the rocks and great ftones, make fuch an hideous noife, that not a fingle articu- late found can be heard. The oars, befides, muft be plied very hard, in order to prevent the vefTel from run- ning to either fide ; for if once fhe touches the rocks, all the goods muft infallibly be loft, and, perhaps, the mens lives; of which difafters there are many examples. The 1 1 th, we pafTed another cataract, called sha- mansky, which is reckoned the moft dangerous of them all, the channel being very narrow and crooked. Some of our company chofe to walk along the banks, rather than run the rifque of pafllng by water ; but R 2 they 132 A JOURNEY chap.xiii. they repented of their refolution; for they were obll- 1 7 2 * • g e d, to fcramble over rocks, and through thickets, where they faw many vipers, and other venomous creatures. We flopped, at the bottom of the fall, to take them on board, and refrefh our rowers. As the ambaflador {raid on board, I remained along with him. Befides thefe three great cataracts, there are many leffer ones, called by the country-people shivers ; but, as the parting them is attended with little danger, I make no mention of them. It is furprifing that loaded veflels mould pafs thefe falls againfl: the ftream. They are commonly warped up by means of ftrong anchors and cables ; and on the goodnefs of the tackle all depends ; for mould it chance to give way, all is loft. This is a laborious piece of work, though not very coftly in thefe parts; and the navigation of this river is attended with no other in- convenience, except that of ftriking againfl: flumps of trees hid under the water. The 14th, we left the Angara, and entered the tongusky, a mighty ftream, formed by the Angara,. and another fmall river called elim. The tongusky points to the northward of the weft, and is well ftored with excellent fifh. We TO P E K I N. 133 We went afhore, this day, at a little village, called chap.xiii. seeza, fituated on a high bank of the ton gu sky. l J^Jj Here we were met by our old acquaintance General kanifer, who came from elimsky to fee Mr. is- mayloff. I took notice before of having feen this gentleman in our journey eaftward. We difpatched our barques, and (laid with him two days. After which we proceeded down the river ; and he returned to e- limsky by water, attended only by his own fervants; for, though he was a prifoner, he had liberty to go where he pleafed, as an efcape was impracticable in fuch remote parts. The 1 7 th, we fet fail with an eafterly wind, and a* ftrong current, which carried us along with great velo- city. We pafled many villages, and fome tongusian huts, upon the banks, to which we made feveral vifits. We found the men generally employed in fifhing in their little canoes, and the women in looking after their children and rain- deer, which, at this feafon, lie near the huts, becaufe the gnats will not fuffer them to ftay in the woods. In order to banifh thefe troublefome vermin, they light fires all around the place of their abode; and the infects, unable to endure the fmoke, immediately fly off. For the fame reafon, no perfon ftirs abroad l 3 4 A JOURNEY chap.xiii. abroad without carrying, in his hand, afmall earthen pot l?^ ' filled with fmoking coals. The canoes skim upon the water very fwiftly, but the lead touch of an unskilful hand overfets them. The tonguse places himfelf on his knees, in the middle of his boat, keeping it as even balanced as poflible; and, with a little paddle only, ven- tures to crofs the greateft rivers. I have feen them haul to the fide a fturgeon of great weight. When a tonguse wants to go from one river to another, a- crofs a neck of land, he takes his boat upon his back, and carries it whither he pleafes. The 19th, we were overtaken with fuch a heavy fhower of rain, in the middle of the river, that, before we could reach the bank, our boat was half full, not- withstanding all hands were employed in rowing, or fcooping out the water. However, after much labour and difficulty, we at laft got to land, wet to the skin; and, what was much worfe, all our bedding thoroughly drenched in water. After we had hauled up our boat, and fattened it to a tree, we went into a thick wood, and kindled a great fire to warm and dry ourfelves; but, the rain being abated, a violent ftorm of wind a- rofe from north-weft, fo that we were forced to remain all night in this difmal place, at a great diftance from any T O P E K I N. 135 any village. In this condition we lay, round a great chap.xiil fire, till next morning. 1 7 2 1 . The 20th, early in the morning, we left the woods, went on board our boat, and proceeded down the ri- ver. About noon, we reached a village, on the right hand, where we halted fome hours to refrefh ourfelves, and dry our cloaths. In the evening, we pufhed off again, and came to another village, where we lodged. On this river are great numbers of water-fowl, of dif- ferent kinds, which come hither to hatch their young in fummer ; and fly off, to the fouth, at the approach of winter. I obferved, alfo, a large fowl, of a grayifh colour, about the fize of a kite ; after it has hover- ed for fomecime upon the wing, if it fpies a fifh in the water, it ftoops fuddenly, flrikes it's prey, and even dives below water to catch it; after which it flies to the bank, and eats it. There are alfo wild goats upon the rocks along the more. They are very large animals, with long and thick horns. Their fhaggy coat is brownifh, having a black ridge down the back. They have long beards like common goats, but are twice as large. It is fur- prifing to fee them leap from one rock to another. They go in pairs about this feafon; but, towards win- ter T36 A J0URN1Y CHAP.xm.ter, retire, in herds, to the fouch. On the hills, and 1 7 2 1# in the woods, are all forts of game, and wild beafts, na- tural to the climate. The 2 1 ft, we overtook our barques, and kept in company with them till night, when we arrived at a village, -where we lodged. In this river are many iflands, fome of which are very large, and others furrounded with high rocky mores. Moft of them are covered with tall birch and pine trees, fit for mafts to the lar- geft fhips; and form a beautiful profpecl:. We had no need to go afhore in order to feek fport, as we found plenty of wild ducks, and other water- fowl, wherever we came. As to frefh fifh, we had more of them, in every village, than we could confume. The two following days we continued our voyage, without meeting with any thing worth mentioning; and, on the morning of the 24th, arrived at the con- flux of the rivers yenisey and tongusky, where the latter lofes it's name; and, both joined, retain the name of yenisey. The yenisey falls into the tongusky from the fouth, and its courfe is then turned north- ward by the current of the other; which, in my opini- on, is the larger of the two. It is obferved, that the yenisey does not afford fuch plenty of fifh, nor fo good of T'O'PEKIN. 137 cf their kinds, as the other rivers of this country, chap.xiii. Thefe two rivers, joined, form a mighty ftream ; among l 7 21 ' the greateft in the world. I think it larger than the volga at astrachan. It continues its courfe to the north-weft, daily augmented by other considerable ri- vers, till it falls into the icy fea. In the evening, we arrived at the town of yenisey- sky, where we were met by our friend Mr. becklimi- shoff, the commandant, who conducted us firft to our lodgings, and then to his own houfe to fupper. Our barques alfo arriving in the evening, the whole com- pany met again at this place; not a little happy at having fafely palled the water- falls, and efcaped the dangers to which we had already been expofed ; though we were ftill above a thoufand leagues from the end of our journey. As we had no time to lofe, our baggage was land- ed next day, and the barques difcharged. The pack- ing the baggage, for land- carriage, took up two days; after which it was tranfported to a place called ma- kofsky, on the river keat, where it was again put on board other barques, which lay ready for that purpofe. The road lies to the weftward, moftly through thick and dark woods; in dry weather, it is tolerably good-, Vol. II. S but *3& A JOUR" NET cHAP.xm.but in heavy autumnal rains fcarce paffable. We ftaid l 7 2li at yeniseysky, through the perfuafion of our hofpi- table landlord, the commandant, till we heard all was leady at makofsky* Having formerly mentioned the plealant fituation of yeniseysky, and the fertility of the foil about it; I mail only add, that the harveft, at this place, was al- ready far advanced; the barley being all reaped, and the people at work in cutting their oats. This feems very early, in a climate fo far to the north, and mull: proceed from the heat of the fummer, and the foil being fertilized by the nitrous particles of the fnow, which lies fo long upon the ground. Auguft 2d, we left yeniseysky on horfe-back, ac- companied by the commandant, who ftaid with us all- night, at a village about ten miles from town. Next morning, we took leave of our friend, and proceeded to makofsky; where we arrived in the. evening, and found the barques ready waiting for us. The 4th, early in the morning, we went on board, and, pufhing off from the fhore, rowed down the ri- ver ke at. The water being fhallow, we made but little way the firft day; but, as we advanced, it increaf- ?A daily, by rivers and brooks from both fides. Be- fore. T O P E K I N. rj9 fore we left makofsky, we laid in provifions for three chap.xiii. weeks, in which time we computed we would enter l l zl * the oby; for, during this long navigation, there is not a fingle houfe, nor village, to be feen, except one reli- gious houfe, poflefled by three or four monks, refenv bling more an hermitage tlian a monaflery. The keat is really a moft difmal river. It is not above the flight of an arrow broad, and fo overfha- dowed with tall trees, that you can fcarce fee the fun. The banks are a perfect: wildernefs, and fo intangled with bufhes, that no creature can pafs along them but wild beafts; with which thefe woods greatly abound. Near the edge of the river, we found great quantities of black currants upon the bufhes, the largeft and beft I ever faw. I was told the bears feed much on this fruit. The river keat takes its rife from a lake at a fmall diftance from the yenisey; and were a canal cut be- tween them, which might eafily be done, there would be a paffage, by water, from verchaturia to the bor- ders of china. But his Czarifh Majefty was, at this time, employed in works of the fame nature, of much greater importance to his country. The keat runs in a crooked channel, pointing, in S 2 general f^i A JOURNEY CHAP.xm.general, to the weft The bottom is ouzy, and fome- l -7 2lt times fandy. The barques, at firft, run often a-groun& on the fand banks, and the people were obliged to get into the water, and heave them off, by main force, with, levers and fetting poles; befides thefe little inconveni- encies, we were molefted with gnats and muskitoes, in, this confined place, more than we had formerly been in any part of our journey. They were not, indeed, ft* numerous as they had been in the heat of fummer; for, the nights began to be cold, and the wind northerly. However, no wind could reach us in this clofe place; and I even wifhed myfelf in the defert again, where L might breath the frefh air- In fhort, the appearance of this place put me in mind of the defcriptions, giveaby, the poets, of the river, sty x. During our tedious voyage down the dark keat, oun only diverfion and exercife was mooting wild- ducks. One day Mr. i s m ay loff and myfelf went down the river in a fmall canoe, rowed by twa fdldiers. at fomc diftance before the barques. We met with a large flock of ducks, which fwam up a. narrow. creek, in or^ der to avoid us. We failed a little way after them; and, in the mean time, our barques paflfed us, and continued before us till night, ftill imagining they had not T O P E K I N. rqt not overtaken us. This day's fport coft us dear; for,CHAP.xiHr our rowers being quite fatigued, we were obliged to *7 21 * relieve them, and row in our turns, till at laft we came up with the barques, both hungry and tired. To make feme amends, we had a good difh of wild- ducks for fupper. The 20 th, we met with two osteaks in their ca- noes, who had come from the river oby, to catch fifh and kill ducks; and had their fifhing- tackle, and bows and arrows along with them. We were glad to fee any human creature. We called them on board, and they willingly ftaid with us till we entered the oby, and fupplied us with plenty of fife and wild fowl. Thefe were the firft of the tribe of the osteaks I had feen. I fhall give fome account of them, when I defcribe our voyage down that river, on the banks of which they have their habitations. I formerly mentioned the great abundance of black currants growing on the: banks of the keat. We found them an excellent and wholefome fruit; many of our people eat great quantities of them without the leaft bad effeft. After a tedious voyage, with little variety, we arriv- ed, on die 28th, at a village called ketskoy, a few miles 142 A J O U R N E Y chap.xiii. miles diftant from the oby. After procuring, at this l 7 21 * place, what neceffaries we wanted, and refrefhing our- felves a few hours, we continued our voyage, making what way we poffibly could; for fear of being frozen up, near fome defert place on the oby, before we came to tobolsky, where we intended to land. We had no rain all the time we were upon the keat; which was a lucky circumftance, as our oars were upon deck. Had our barques drawn only about eighteen inches water, as was intended, we fhould not have been above fourteen days on this river, and thereby faved much time and labour; but, coming from china, every per- fon in the retinue had a little, which overloaded the veffels, and retarded their progrefs. The next day, we entered the famous river oby, which, from its breadth and deepth of water, appears, at leaft, equal to the Volga or yenisey, and could carry fhips of confider- able burden. The 30th, we reached the firft town upon the oby, called narim, fituated on the north bank, about a gun- fhot from the river, and a few miles from the mouth of the keat. It commands a fine profpect, up and down the river, and of the woods to the fouth. Near the town, are a few corn-fields, and garden grounds, abound- TO F E K I 14. ift abounding with greens and roots. This place has acHAfvxnt fmall fortrefs governed by a commandant. The inha- l 7 21 - bitants are generally dealers in furs, which they buy from the osteaks; and either carry them themfelves to the borders of china, where they are exchanged for the commodities of that nation, or difpofe of them to merchants going thither. The 31ft, we dined with the commandant, and (pent the reft of the day in laying in a flock of pro- vifions. We found, at this place, plenty of fine fifh; particularly fterlet, fturgeon, and muckfoon, and many more too tedious to mention; the laft is peculiar to the oby and Irtish. Here I met with Mr. borlutt, a native of Flan- ders, who had been a major in the Swedish fervice, and fent to this place a prifoner of war. He was a very ingenious gentleman, and had a particular turn for mechanicks. The commandant treated him more like a friend than a prifoner; which, indeed, was the cafe of mod of thofe unfortunate gentlemen, whom the fate of war had fent to this country. His Czarifh Majefty, well confidering their circumftances, fent them to a plentiful country, where they could live at their eafe till peace was reftored. September 444 A JOURNEY CHAP.XHI. September ill, having provided ourfelves with ne- I 7 21 * ceflaries, and got new rowers, our former ones return- ing to yeniseysky, from whence they came, in the evening we went again on board; and, putting off in fine calm weather, rowed down the oby at a great rate; our courfe being much favoured by the rapidity of the current. We paffed feveral villages, and a little mo- naftery called troytza. The banks to the north are pretty high, but to the fouth flat; by which means, on -the melting of the fnow in the fpring, they are over- flowed to a great extent. The river runs towards the north-weft, with little variation. We continued our voyage night and day, except in great darknefs, or a gale of contrary wind, when we were obliged to ly by in fome creek. The osteaks, I mentioned above, differ from all the other tribes of natives in Siberia, both in com- plexion and language. Many of them are fair, refem- bling the people of Finland, and they have many Finnish words in their language. Their manner of life is nearly the fame with that of the tonguse, who border with them to the eaftward. In fummer, they live in the woods, in huts covered with birchen bark. In winter, they dig pits, acrofs which they lay flakes, above T O P E K I N. 145 above them fpread earth, to keep them warm. TheycHAP.xin. have a fire in the middle, and a hole in the roof to let l 7 21 * out the fmoke. During this feafon they live chiefly on fim, dried and fmoked, wild fowl, or what elfe they catch in hunting. Many of them are flout fellows, fit for any fervice. Two of them, with their bows and arrows, a fhort fpear, and a little dog, will attack the greateft bear. They are dexterous archers and fifher- men. We had always a number of them, in canoes, round our barques, who fupplied us with plenty of fifh and wild fowl, of various forts, at an eafy rate. Give them only a little tobacco, and a dram of brandy, and they ask no more, not knowing the ufe of money. The osteaks, though a favage people in their man- ner of life, are far from being barbarous; for a fingle Russian will travel about all their abodes, in order to purchafe furs, without fear of any violence. They are alfo remarkable for their honefty; and the fmall tri- bute of furs, which they pay annually to his Czarifh Majefty, they bring punctually to the place appointed. In fummer, they wear nothing but coats and fhort drawers, made of fifh-skins, dreffed after their fafhion- but, in winter, are clothed with skins of deer and other wild beads. Vol. H. T They l 4 6 AJOURNEY CHAP.xm. They have no cattle except rain-deer, which fupply 1 7 21 - their children with milk; and are, befides, of great far? vice to them on many accounts. As to their religion, they are ignorant heathens, like the reft of the natives of Siberia. They have many both male and female fhamans, who are in great efteem a* mong them. Thefe fhamans have many fmall images, or rather blocks of wood, rudely cut with a knife or hatchet, reprefenting a human figure, drefTed up in rags of various colours, by which they pretend to fore- tel future events, fuch as the good or bad luck of thofe that go a-hunting. But thefe are no better than o- thers of the fame fpecies, already mentioned, who im- pofe on the ignorance or credulity of their neigh- bours. From what I have now and formerly faid concern- ing thefe poor favage tribes, it will appear that they are involved in the moft profound ignorance. Their manners are fo rude, and minds uncultivated, that many of them feem ftupid, and altogether unmindful of any thing beyond their prefent employment. I have, however, met with men of reflection among them, who agreed with the reft of mankind, in acknowledging one great T O P E K I N. rjf j great almighty Creator of this world, and of every thing chap.xiu. elfe. l 7*& The archbiftiop of tobolsky has, of late, baptlfed many of the osteaks, and other natives, in a tour he made through Siberia with that view; and it is to be hoped his fucceflbrs will follow his laudable example^ CHAPTER XIV. Our arrival at the town of surgute, our journey thence te mos co, fome account of the creature called mammon, &c. A FTER a voyage of ten days from the town of narim, during which little remarkable happened, we arrived, on the 1 1 th of September, at another town, called surgute, fituated on the north bank of the oby, and defended by a foiall fort. The inhabi- tants, like the people of narim, are moftly traders in furs. The adjacent country, on both fides of the river, is overgrown with dark and tall woods, where there is no cultivated ground, except a few gardens. Bread is got, at a fmall charge, by water-carriage, from tobol- sky, and other places on the river Irtish. In the banks of the oby, about this place, are found great quantities of that kind of ivory called, in this T 2 country, i 4 8 AJOURNEY CHAP.xiv.country, mammons horn. Some of it, alfo, is found 1 7 21 - on the banks of the volga. Mammon's horn re- fembles, in fhape and fize, the teeth of a large elephant. The vulgar really imagine mammon to be a creature living in marfhes and under ground; and entertain ma- ny ftrange notions concerning it. The tartars tell many fables of its having been feen alive. But to me it appears that this horn is the tooth of a large e- lephant. When, indeed, or how, thefe teeth came fo far to the northward, where no elephants can, at pre- fent, fubfift during the winter- feafon, is what I am un- able to determine. They are commonly found in the banks of rivers which have been wafhed by floods. The commandant of this place had his entry ornamented with feveral very large ones, and made me a prefent of one of them. I have been told by tartars in the bar aba, that they have feen this creature, called mammon, at the dawn of day, near lakes and rivers; but, that on difcovering them, the mammon immediately tumbles into the wa- rmer, and never appears in the day-time; they fay it is about the fize of a large elephant, with a monftrous large head and horns, with which he makes his way in marfhy places, and under ground, where he conceals him- T O P E K I N. I49 himfelf till night. I only mention thefe things as thecHAP.xiv. reports of a fuperftitious and ignorant people. 1 7 2 1 . I have obferved, in moft of the towns, we parTed, be- tween tobolsky and yenesiesky, many of thefe mam- mons horns, fo called by the natives ; fome of them very entire and frefh, like the belt, ivory, in every cir- cum fiance, excepting only the colour, which was of a yellowifh hue; others of them mouldered away at the ends, and, when fawn afunder, prettily clouded. The people make fnuffboxes, combs, and diverfe forts of turnery ware, of them. They are found in the banks of all the great rivers in Siberia, weftward of iencousky, when the floods have warned down the banks, by the melting of the fnow, in the fpring. I have feen of them weighing a- bove one hundred pounds English. [I brought a large tooth, or mammon's horn, with me to England, and prefented it to my worthy friend Sir hans sloane, who gave it a place in his celebrated Mufeum ; and was of opinion, alfo, that it was the tooth of an ele- phant. This tooth was found in the river oby, at a place called surgute.] The 1 2 th, after we had been fupplied with a frefh flock of provifions, and frefh rowers, we proceeded to- wards 150 A JOURNEY chap.xiv. wards the next ftage, called samarofsky-yamm, neax l 2 ! ' the conflux of the oby and Irtish. The wind being: contrary, we made but flow progrefs. The near ap- proach of winter, which ufually begins about the flrft of October, made us haften forward as faft as poffible. Next day, the wind being eafterly, we hoifted our fails, and run along at a great rate ; and, the 1 4th, ar- rived at a fmall village on the north fhore. The foutb bank ftill continued low and flat. At this village we faw great quantities of wild geefe, picked, and fmoked, and hung in fhades, for winter-provifions. We had Ibme of them drefled ; but I cannot much praife them for agreeable food. The people of this place catch vaft numbers of them in day-nets, more on account of the down and feathers, than of their flefh, which is but of fmall value. We let our barques proceed; and de- tained a boat to follow them, as foon as we had feen the method of catching the wild geefe. The fportf- man conducted us into a fpacious open plain, encom- pafled with woods and water. Here he had his large nets, with wide mafhes, fpread; and a fmall hut, made of green branches, to conceal himfelf. Upon the grafs were fcattercd about a fcore of geefe skins fluffed, fome of them (landing, others ficting, in natural po- ll ures. T O P E K I N. i 5 i ftures. As foon as he fees a flock flying over hiscHAP.xiv. head, he calls, with a bit of birchen bark in his mouth, 1 7 21, exactly like the wild geefe. On hearing the call, they take a turn round, and then alight among the fluffed skins ; which being perceived by the fportf- man, he immediately draws a ftring, and claps the nets over the whole flock, or as many of them as are within their reach. The geefe always alight and rife with their heads to windward; to prevent, therefore, fuch as efcape the day- net from flying off, he has a deep long net placed, on tall flender poles, to wind- ward, which intangles great numbers in their rifing. I am perfuaded this method might eafily be pra&ifed, in other parts of the world, to greater advantage; though, I believe, there are no where fuch quantities of water- fowl, efpecially geefe of different kinds, as in thefe northern climates; where, free from annoyance, they bring forth their young among woods and lakes, and, at the approach of winter, fly off to the Caspian fea, and other fouthern regions. There is here one fpecies of geefe, called kazarky, of a fize lefs than the common wild goofe, having beau- tiful fcarlet fpots about the head, and fome feathers of the fame colour in its wings. Of this fort I faw great flocks 152 A JOURNEY chap.xiv. flocks about the Caspian fea in winter. Befides thefe, 1 7 21 * there are numbers of fwans, and all forts of water- fowl natural to the climate. The woods are flored with game, and various forts of wild fowl ; particularly, the coc-limoge, the heath- cock, and feveral others too tedious to mention. The manner in which the coc-limoge is caught, by the os- teaks, is fomewhat curious. They make a paling, about four or five feet high, running from any wood, along a fandy bank, to the edge of the river, having the flakes fet fo clofe that the fowls cannot pafs between them. In this paling they leave openings, at certain diftances, large enough to afford a paflage for thefe birds *, and, rather than take the wing, the cock will feek a paflage from one end of the hedge to the other. In thefe openings are fet fprings, on bent branches, which, as foon as touched, fly up, and catch the fowl, either by the neck, or feet. The osteaks brought us thefe, and other wild fowl, in great plenty. The i 5th, in fine weather, we continued our voy- age; uiing our fails or oars, by turns, as circumftances obliged us. Little material happened till the 19th in the evening, when we left the oby, and entered the river IRTISH; T O P E K I N. 155 Irtish; and, night coming on, we put afhore, where chap.xtv. weftaid till next morning. On entering; the Irtish, i 7 21 - we had a ftrong current againft our courfe, which had been down the ftream, in all the different rivers, from SELINGINSKY tO this place. Before I proceed farther, I mall take a view of the famous oby. It is one of the largeft rivers in the world; and runs as long a courfe as any in Siberia, or per- haps in any other quarter of the globe. It rifes in the defert, feveral hundred miles fouthward of the baraba; and is daily augmented, by many ftreams of different names, till it reaches a place called belogarsky, where it takes the name of oby, at the conflux of two large rivers, the alley and the tzaritt. Thefe rivers join- ed form the oby. The oby fignifies both in the Rus- sian language. But I am of opinion, this river had that name long before Siberia was known to the Rus- sians; as the natives flill give it that name. In going eaftward, we paffed the oby upon the ice, at a place called tzausky ostrogue; where it made no great appearance, in comparifon of what it does after receiving the rivers tom, tzulim, keat, Irtish, and many others; when, indeed, it may be reckoned in the number of the largeft rivers in the world. It Vol. II. U points i 5 4 A JOURNEY chap.xiv. points generally to the north, with various windings, 1 7 2 1 ' till it meets the keat, when it turns to the north- weft; and runs in that direction many miles, till, meeting with the irtish, it turns (hort, in a rapid current, to- wards the pole, fwallowing up many rivers and brooks in its courfe; and, at laft, it difcharges itfelf into the northern ocean, at a great bay called obskaya-guba,. or the lips of the oby. Few rivers in the world contain greater plenty and variety of fifh than the oby. The banks to the fouth produce woods in abundance, interfperfed with corn* fields, and good pafturage. I have been informed, that in thefe parts are rich mines of copper and iron, and even filver. At the conflux of the oby and irtish are feveral large iflands; and farther north, feveral villages; but only one town of any note, called bercosa, fituated on the left hand. I may here obferve, that geographers generally a* gree, that a line drawn from the place where the river tanais, now called don, difcharges itfelf into the fea of azof, or the black fea, to the mouth of the oby, is the proper boundary betwixt Europe and asia. The 2cth, early in the morning, we fhoved off from the T P E K I N. i 55 the (hore, and made the beft of our way up the Irtish, chap.xiv. In the evening, we reached samariofsky-yamm, where x 7 21 * we lodged this night. Next day, having taken on board frefh labourers, and the wind being northerly, and very cold, we put off in hafte, hoifted fail, and went along at a great rate. The wind continuing from this point, was a cer- tain fign that winter was at no great diftance; and, that we might foon expert to be met by fhoals of float- ing ice. The 2 2d, the north wind flill continued very ftrong, to our great joy. For, although there are many vil- lages on the Irtish, we dreaded the being frozen up near fome defert place. Next day, there fell a little fnow, which foftened the coldnefs of the air; but, at the fame time, the wind unfortunately chopped about to the weft ward, and re- tarded our progrefs. The 24th, we continued our voyage; and, next day, the wind again becoming northerly, we ufed our fails all that day and night. We proceeded, without any thing material happening, till the 29th, when we reach- ed demiansky, a town (landing on the eaftern bank. Next day, we fet out immediately, after taking in U 2 frefh 156 A JOURNEY CHAP.xrv.frefh rowers. The fields were now covered with fnow, 1 7 21, and the froft fo ftrong, that the ice began to float in the river; and we expected every day to be frozen up. Thefe figns, of approaching winter, influenced Mr. ismaylof to leave the barques, to follow as fhould be poflible for them, while himfelf made the beft of his way to tobolsky, in a fmall boat. Accordingly, car- rying me along with him, we immediately fet out to- wards that place. October the firft, we continued rowing along, near the banks, and took in frefh rowers as occafion offer- ed. The river was full of great fhoals of ice, the froft ftrong, and much fnow. In the evening, we arrived, cold and wet, at a fmall village, where we lodged in a warm room, about fifty verft from tobolsky. Next day, the river was fo covered with ice that wc could proceed no farther in our boats ; but luckily, in the night, there fell fnow enough for fledges. Wc foon got horfes, and fuch open fledges as the place af- forded, and, in the evening, arrived fafe at the city of tobolsky. We went immediately to the palace of Prince alexie michaylqvitz cherkasky, the gover- nor, who was an intimate friend of the ambaflador. This Prince was much eftcemed for his capacity, as well T O P E K I N. 157 well as his great probity and honour. We fupped with chap.xiv. him, and then retired to our lodgings; but could not *7 21 ' avoid commiferating the fate of our fellow travellers, labouring with the ice, and afraid of being frozen up every minute. The 3d, we fent fome foldiers to meet the barques, and aflift them in coming up the river. And on the 5th, they arrived fafe at tobolsky; where they were, next day, difcharged. We were obliged to ftay here for the falling of the fnow, in order to proceed on fledges, the common me- thod of travelling in winter. At this place, we thought ourfelves at home, having good lodgings, good com- pany, and plenty of provisions; fo that we waited par tiently for the fetting in of winter; befldes, we had now a frequented road, lying through a well inhabit- ed country.,, all the way to mosco. During our ftay at tobolsky, I was informed, that a large troop of gipfies had been lately at that place, to the number of fixty and upwards, confiding of men, women, and children. The Russians call thefe vaga- bonds tziggany. Their forry baggage was carried on horfes and afles. The arrival of fo many ftrangers be- ing reported to Mr. petroff solovoy, the vice go- vernor;. 158 A JOURNEY CHAP.xiv.vernor; he fent for fome of the chief of the gang, and l 7 21 ' demanded whither they were going? they anfwered him, to china; upon which he told them, he could not permit them to proceed any farther eaftward, as they had no pafsport; and ordered them to return to the place whence they came. It feems thefe peo- ple had roamed, in fmall parties, during the fummer feafon, crofs the vaft countries between Poland and this place; fubfifting themfelves on what they could find, and on felling trinkets, and telling fortunes to the country people. But tobolsky, being the place of rendezvous, was the end of their long journey eaft- wards; and they, with no fmall regret, were obliged to turn their faces to the weft again. Before I leave this new world, as it may be called, of Siberia, I think it well deferves a few general re- marks; befides the particulars mentioned in my jour- nal. This vaft extent of eaftern continent is bounded by Russia to the weft; by great tartary to the fouth; on the eaft and north by the refpe&ive oceans ; ics cir- cumference is not eafy to afcercain. Foreigners com- monly are terrified at the very name of Siberia, or si- bir as it is fomecimes called; but, from what I have faid T O P E K I N. j 59 faid concerning it, I prefume it will be granted, thatCHAP.xiv. it is by no means fo bad as is generally imagined. On l 7 21 * the contrary, the country is really excellent, and a- bounds with all things neceflfary for the ufe of man and beaft. There is no want of any thing, but peo* pie to cultivate a fruitful foil, well watered by many of the nobleft rivers in the world; and thefe ftored with variety of fuch fine fifh, as are feldom found in other countries. As to fine woods, furnifhed with all forts of game and wild fowl, no country can ex^ ceed it. Siberia is generally plain, fometimes varied with rifing grounds; but contains no high mountains, and few hills, except towards the borders of china, where you find many pleafant hills and fruitful valleys. Confldering the extent of this country, and the ma- ny advantages it poiTefTes, I cannot help being of opi- nion, that it is fufficient to contain all the nations in Europe; where they might enjoy a more comfortable life than many of them do at prefent. For my part, I think, that, had a perfon his liberty and a few friends, there are few places where* he could fpend life more agreeably than in fome parts of Siberia. Towards the north, indeed, the winter is long, and extremely 160 AJOURNEY chap.xiv. extremely cold. There are alfo many dreary waftes, l 7 21 ' an d Jeep woods, terminated only by great rivers, or the ocean; but thefe I would leave to the prefent in- habitants, the honeft osteaks, and tonguses, and o- thers like them; where, free from ambition and ava- rice, they fpend their lives in peace and tranquillity. • I am even perfuaded, that thefe poor people would not change their fituation, and manner of life, for the fin- er!: climate, and all the riches of the eafl; for I have often heard them fay, that god, who had placed them in this country, knew what was beft for them, and they were fatisfied with their lot. During our flay at tobolsky, a meflenger arrived from court, with the glad tidings of peace being con- cluded between his Czarifh Majefty and the crown of Sweden, after a deftru&ive war, which had raged a- bove twenty years. This was very agreeable news to every body, particularly to the officers who had remain- ed fo long in captivity. The peace was proclaimed with firing of guns, and other rejoicings ufual on fuch occafions. November 18th, all the roads being now firm, and fit for fledges, we left tobolsky in a ftrong froft. As we returned by the fame road we went to the eafhvard, which T O P E K I N. 161 which I have already defcribed, I fhall not repeat theCHAP.xiv. particulars, but only name the towns through which T 7 21 - we pafled, viz. tumeen, epantshin, verchaturia, and solikamsky. The weather being exceflively cold, we remained two days at this place. From thence we came to kay-gorod, then to klinoff; from which, inftead of going towards cazan, we proceeded ftraight through the woods towards the town of nishna-novogorod, fituated at the conflux of the volga and ocka. This road is neareft, but very rough and narrow in many places, the country being overgrown with large tall woods, of different kinds, according to the nature of the foil. The principal inhabitants are the tzeremish, who afford but indifferent accommodation for travel- lers ; however, the people are very courteous and ho- fpi table. Among them are fcattered a few russ villa- ges, and a very few russ towns of fmall note; for which reafon, I fhall only mention the names of fuch as lay in our road from klinoff to kusma-damiansko, (which lad place is fituated on the eaft bank of the ri- ver volga) viz. bistritsky, a large village; orloff, a fmall town; yuriefsky, a village; kotelnitzy, a fmall town; a village called tzorno-retzky ; a large village called voskresensky; yaran sky, a fmall town; tza- VOL. II. X REVO- \6i A JOURNEY chap.xiv.revo-sanchursky, another fmall town*, shumetrey, a I 7 21 ' village. Befides thefe, and fome others, we paffed VA^j ° ... through many villages, inhabited by tzeremishian and tzoowashian tartars, to mention which would be too tedious. Thefe people, having deftroyed the woods about their villages, live much at their eafe, have plen- ty of corn and cattle, and great numbers of bee- hives, whereby they furnifh the markets with great quanti- ties of honey and bees-wax. They alfo furnifhed us with changes of horfes, whenever we had occafion for them ; but their tackling of harnefs, &c. is fo bad, that much time was loft in accommodating them to our heavy carriages *, fo that we thought ourfelves happy when we met with Russian villages, which are far better pro- vided in that refpecl:, and more accuftomed to travel- ling, than thofe poor people, who never go far from their own home. After a tedious journey, we came out of the woods, to the volga, and travelled along upon the ice; which, in fome places, was not very firm. In the evening we reached nishna-novogorod ; where we ftaid fome days to refrelh ourfelves, and kept our Christmas with the commandant. We proceeded again on the 28 th, and, little mate- rial T O P E K I N. 163 rial happening, arrived fafe at the capital city of mos-chap.xiv. co, on the 5th day of January, 1722; where we found l J^' his Czarifh Majefty, and all the court, who had lately arrived from st. Petersburg ; and preparations were making for grand fire-works, triumphal arches, and other marks of joy, on account of the peace. With which I fhall conclude my journal. THINK it will not be unacceptable to the reader, if I fubjoin a lift of the places and diftances between st. Petersburg and pekin. They are as follows. It is to be noted, that the diftances between st. Pe- tersburg and tobolsky in Siberia, are all meafured verfts; each verft being 500 russ fathoms, each fa- thom confifting of 7 feet English meafure; fo that a Russian verft meafures exa&ly 1 \66\- yards. Verfts. Verfts. From St. Petersburg Brought up 141 to Yefhore 35 to Podberezwa 2 3 TofTinsky-Yam 23 Novogorod 2 2 Lubany 26 Bronitza 35 Chudova 32 ZaitfofF 3 Spaskoy Polifte 2 5 Kriftitskom 3 1 To be carried up 141 To be carried over 282 X : 2 164 Route from st. petersuu Verfts. Brought over 282 to Yazhecbeetfach 39 Zemnigorskom 2 3 Edrovo 2 2 Kotelofsky 35 Vifhny-Volotfhoke36 Vidropusko 3 3 Torfhoke 36 Medna 3 3 Tweer 2 8 Gorodna 3 1 Zavidova 27 Klinn 27 Pelhka 30 Tihorny Graz 24 City of Mofco 28 Novo-Derevenoy 27 Bankovo 26 Kyrzatsky 29 Lipnach 28 Undola 1 7 Volodimer 2 2 To be carried up 883 RG to pekin continued. Verfts. Brought up 883 to Selo-Sudogda 34 Mofhkach 30 Selo-Dratfhevo 26 Murom 3 o Selo-Monachovo 25 Selo-Pagofty 29 Selo-Bogoroditzky 39 Nifhna Novogorod 2 8 Zyminka 25 Selo-Tatintza 3 1 Belozerika 35 Fokina 29. Selo-Sumkach 34 Kofma-Damiansko 20 Bolfhoy Rucky 10 Kumea 50 Shu me trey 30 Zarevo-Santzursky 30 Potavinoy-Vrague 47 Yaranskey 29 Selo-Voskrcfensky 34 To be carried over 1528 Route from st. petersb Verfts. Brought over 1528 to Tfhorna-Retzka 47 Kotelnizy 46 Yuriofsky 20 Orloff 26 Selo-Biftritz 2 1 Klinoff 3 o Slobodsky 28 Selo-Prokofiefsky 30 Selo-Soloveczkoy 33 Troitska-monafte- ry. 22 Kruto-Gorsky 25 Katharinsky-mona- flcry 25 Tikofsky 35 Leonsky 25 Kay-Gorod 35 Reka Volva 34 Korifh Retska Be- refofsky 2 5 Selo Yfinofsky 30 To be carried up 2065 urg/opekin continued. Verfls. Brought up 2065 to Zezefsky 1 5 Selo-Koffinsky 3 6 Logginoff 3 2 Selo-Syrinsky 28 Nikonoff 25 Town of Sollikam- sky 30 Martinskoy 25 Yanvey 3 5 MoltzanofF 35 FromMoltzanoff to Verkaturia are five ftages, making 181 thence to Saldin- skaya Pogoftia 27 Maggnevoy 46 Fominoy 28 Babichinoy 53- Turinsky 53 Slattkoy 50 Selo-Rofhdefvinsky5o To be carried over 281c 165 j66 Routt from st. Petersburg to pekin continued. Verfts. Verfts. Brought over 2815 Brought up 25178 Tumeen 51 Backfarino 34 Soffaovoy 46 Sheftakovo 26 Pokrofska-Slaboda 3 1 Dcchterevo 39 Iskinskoy 35 CityofTobolsky 43 To be carried up 2978 3 I2 ° From St. Petersburg to Mofco 734 From Mofco to Kufma-Damiansko 564 From Kufma-Damiansko to Zarevo-Santzursky 1 20 From Zarevo-Santzursky to Sollikamsky 8 1 3 From Sollikamsky to Tobolsky 888 3119 It will be obferved, that, in our journey outwards to china, we went by cazan; which muft make the diftance, we travelled, between st. Petersburg and tobolsky, more than the above, (which is the fhorteft road,) by, at leaft, 200 verfts. The Route from sT. Petersburg to pekin continued. i (rj The route continued from Tobolsk y, eaftward, down the river irtish, and up the rivers oby and keat, by water. From Tobolsky Verfts. to Samariofsky-Yamm 570 the town of Surgute 262 the town of Narim 500 the town of Makofsky, up the ri- ver Keat 1480 by land, to Yenifeysky 02 to Elimsky, along the river Ton- gusky 627 to Irkutsky 450 crofs the Baykall lake, to Selin- ginsky 394 to Saratzine, the boundary be- tween RufTia and China, 1 04 to the river Tola 467 to the wall of China, crofs the Hungry Stepp, or Deferc, 1 2 1 2 to the city of Pekin 200 From Tobolsky to Pekin 6448 From Sc. Petersburg co Tobolsky 3 1 1 9 95 6 7 N. B. The 1 68 Route from st. Petersburg to pekin. N. B. The verfts between tobolsky and pekin are computed, which generally exceed the meaiured verft. It will be noted, that the route above-recited is that by which we returned from china. JOUR- JOURNAL OF THE RESIDENCE O F M R D E L A N G E. AGENT OF HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY OF ALL THE RUSSIA S, PETER THE FISRT, AT THE COURT OF PEKIN, DURINGTHEYEARS 17 2 1, & 1722. TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH, PRINTED AT LEYDEN BY ABRAHAM KALLEWIER, IN MDCCXXVI. Vol. II. Y TR ANSL ATION OF THE E D I T O R'S PREFACE TO THE READER. HHHIS Journal is a very curious and an authentick piece, and certainly merits the attention of the publick, as well for its ufe as the novelty of the fub- ject it treats of. As the world is not fo fufficiently informed of what pafTes in thofe diftant countries, as to form a tolerable judgment of what the court of Russia may have to do with that of china, I am now about to give a fuccincl: relation thereof to the reader, that it may ferve him as an introduction to the work. It is now well known, that the frontiers of Siberia are contiguous to thofe of china; for this reafon, it is natural to think, that the court of Russia fhould have more frequent corrcfpondence with that of chi- n\, than any other court of europe. Neverthelefs, this correfpondenoe, between the two courts, is of no ancient date; as it did not commence but fince the Y 2 MONGALL 172 TRANSLATION OF THE mongall tartars made themfelves matters of chi- na, about the year 1640; for it was about that time that the Russians, after being pofleffed of Siberia from the latter end of the fixteenth century, began to fpread themfelves over that vaft country; not having met with the lead refiftance from the ancient inhabi- tants of thofe parts ; till, at laft, they came to eflablifh themfelves about the lake baykall, and the river a- moor, thereby becoming near neighbours to the mon- gall tartars; by intercourfe with them the Russians foon came to underftand, that their nation had poflef- fed themfelves of c h i n a ; and that it was the Prince who was actually their Chan, who filled, at that time, the throne of china. The court of Russia was not ignorant of the ex- treme opulence of the empire of china; and, apprized that the diftance from Siberia could not be great, re- folved to try if they could not draw forrie advantages from that difcovery, by eftablifhing a regular com- merce between Siberia and china; promifing them- felves no lefs, than to draw into Russia, from that em- pire, a great part of its riches. For this purpofe, the court of russia fent, fuccefTively, fcveral ambafladors, or envoys, to china; who fuccecded fo well, that the CHINESE EDITOR'S PREFACE. 173 Chinese, at length, confented to the entry of the ca- ravans into their dominions, from Siberia, on condi- tions very advantageous to Russia. During thefe tranfactions, the Russians daily gain- ed ground, on the frontiers of the mongall tartars; and even made no fcruple, when they thought fit, of eftablifhing themfelves on their territories, with a de- fign to approach on one fide, along the river amoor, towards the oriental fea; and on the other fide, along; the river selinga, towards the frontiers of china. In the mean time, the new government of china was not long of comprehending, that all thefe new* fettlements, which the Russians made upon the fron- tiers of the mongalls, would, in time, render their power too formidable to the fubje&s of china; and might come at laft to be very dangerous to the re- pofe of china itfelf, in cafe any mifunderflandings be- tween the two nations fhould arife. On thefe confi- derations, they refolved to oppofe fettlement to fettle- menr, and to build fome towns, and villages on the frontiers of the mongall tartars, at fome diftance from the laft fettlements of the Russians; in order thereby to prevent their penetrating further into the country* I 7 4 TRANSLATION OF THE country, to the prejudice of the tartar fubjecls of CHINA. In confequence of this refolution, the Chinese built, about the year 1 670, the towns of mergeen and naun, and the borough of x 1 x 1 g a n, with feveral other bo- roughs, and villages thereabouts; which they peopled with colonies of mongalls, fubje&s of china. Thence arofe difputes between the two empires, on the fubjecl: of their frontiers. And in place of the negotiations being confined to affairs of commerce, and mutual proteftations of amity and friendfhip, on one fide and the other; the grand objedr, of all their aims, came now to be the accommodation of the af- fair of the frontiers, and the regulation of limits be- tween the two empires. But in as much as one would preferve to themfelves the right of doing as they thought lie; and the other would, at all hazards, keep them from doing what they thought dangerous ; there arofe a great coolnefs between them; which came to blows in the years 1684 and 1685. Ic is true that they laboured inceffantly, both on che one fide and on the other, for a re eftablifhment of good harmony between .the two nations; to this end there were held two dif- ferent congreffes, at the town of nerchinsky, between the EDITOR'S PREFACE, the plenipotentiaries of Russia, and thofe of china. But thofe gentlemen met with fo many difficulties, in reconciling their different fentiments and interefts, that they were obliged to feparate without fuccefs. At laft, F. gerbillon, a Jefuit, returned again to the town of nerchinsky, in quality of plenipotentiary of the court of china; and there, in 1689, figned a treaty of peace, and perpetual alliance, between the two empires ; which was afterwards ratified, in the ufual forms, by both the courts. That treaty was not very advantageous to the Rus- sians; becaufe it fet bounds to their eftablifhments on thefe frontiers, which was a very difagreeable article. And as they believed the Chinese would not regard it very ftriclly, provided they did not advance further on the fide of the selinga, and the towns they had late- ly built to the fouthward of the frontiers; the Russi- ans again began to make new fet dements along the river amoor; and, at laft, to build along the fouth » bank of that river, thirty leagues beyond their limits, a town they called albazin; in hopes that the Chi- nese could not be without Siberian furs, and would rather chufe to wink at thefe enterprifes, than enter into a new war. But they were quite miftaken in their calcula- l 75 Ij6 TRANSLATION OT THE calculation; for the mongalls furnifhed fuch quanti- ties of furs to china, from the time they had orders from the Chan to fpread themfelves along the banks of the amoor, that the Chinese began to perceive that they could be fufficiently fupplied with furs, without rthofe from Siberia. And in thefe fentiments they fpoke freely their thoughts of thefe new enterprifes of the RUSSIANS. In the mean time, the Russians gave them good words, and fair promifes; but continued to carry on their point, flattering themfelves, that they might find fome favourable opportunity of pacifying them. Ne- vertheless, the Chinese growing doubtful of the Russi- ans complying with their demands, which they thought well founded, at length, had recourfe to force; and, in the year 1 7 1 5, made the mongalls, fubje&s to china, take arms, and laid fiege to the town of albazin, the place which was the principal ground of their com- plaints. This fiege continued three years; and as the late peter the great was occupied in his grand de- figns to the weftward, he would not continue the quar- rel with china. Thus they let the town fall into the hands of the mongalls; and agreed to a new provifio- oal treaty with the court of pekin. But as other dif- ferences EDITOR'S PREFACE. 177 ferences, on the frontiers, (till fubfifted, the court of Russia fent again, in 1 7 1 9, an envoy extraordinary to p e k 1 n, to regulate entirely what remained to be ad- jufted between the two empires; and feeing, that by means of thefe differences, the commerce of the cara- vans was much leflened, the true objecl: of his negoti- ation was to re-eftablifh that commerce; and, to that end, to try to induce the court of china to confent to the refidence of an agent, from russia, at the court of pekin, who might take care to watch over the af- fairs of the caravan, and fo preferve a good understand- ing between the two empires. The envoy of russia, having happily executed the lad part of his commiffi- on, left, at his departure from pekin, Mr. de lange, as agent of russia at the court of pekin, who was the author of the following journal. The publick is obliged for this tra<5r. to a foreign mi- nifter, who refided many years at the court of russia ; and who permitted it to be communicated to the pu- blick. But, to make the reading of it more agreeable, and more ufeful to the world, it was thought fit to add fome little remarks in the places which required eluci- dation; that nothing mi^ht be wanting to the reader on fo interefting a fubjecl. Vol. II. Z JOUR- JOURNAL *79 MARCH. O F *7 21 - Mr- D E L A N G E, &c. 1^ /(r. de ismayloff, ambaffador and envoy extraor- dinary of his Czarifh Majefty, having fixed his departure from pekin to be on the 2d of March, after having finifhed his negotiations at the court of china in the beft manner he pofTibly could *, I took the refo- lution of accompanying him to the wall of china; but the gentlemen of the miniftry thought proper to refufe me a paflport; pretending, that, as I was ordered by his Czarifh Majefty to refide at the court of the Chan j~, it was necefTary that I fhould have permiflion of the Bogdoi Chan himfelf ; not only for going as far as the grand wall, but alfo, for every time' that I would go to ftay a night without the walls of pekin ; to the ■ Mr.de ismayloff, a gentleman of f All the tartars give to their reign- great merit, and a captain in the regiment ing princes the title of Chan ; and, as the of the pkeobraschinsky guards, was fent, houfe, which at prefent fills the throne of in the year i 719, by the late Emperor pe- china, is come from that branch of Pagan ter the Great, to china, with the cha- tartars, known to us by the name of rafter of ambaffador and envoy extraordi- oriental mongalls, the Emperors of nary, to renew the treaties between Russia china conform themfclves to the eftablim- and china; and to endeavour to bring the ed cuflom of their nation; preferving, to court of pekin to agree to a regulated free this time, the title of Chan. Vide Hiji. commerce with Russia. Gc?iealog. efts tartar.es. Z 2 intent, 180 J O U R N A L O F march, intent, that the court might always be afTured that no 1721. ill accident fhould happen to me, being a foreigner*. V ^ / ^^^ te> 'And, as the Bogdoi-Chan had already quitted his refi- dence of pe k i n, to take the diverfion of hunting, it was not without a good deal of trouble that I obtained permiffion to accompany Mr. de ismayloff as far as czampinsa, which is a town 60 ly -j- diftant from pe- kin, from whence I returned, being efcorted by a cleric of the council for the affairs of the mongalls, and fome foldiers; and thus came back to pekin on the 6th, The 7th, early in the morning, I faw enter the court- yard of my houfe a man who had the appearance of a. poor beggar ; he brought with him fome poor ftarved fowls, and faked cabbage, together with fome pots of taralTun, which is a fermented liquor, made of grain,, and what the Chinese drink inftead of wine, making it warm before they drink it. This man, having fet it * Mr. de i smayloff, at his departure their court, on pretence that it was contrary from PEK.IS, left, by virtue of his inflructi- to the fundamental confutations of the em- 1 , Mr. de l a n g e, in quality of agent pire; yet the faid ambaiTador knew fo well 'i Russia, to treat of, and bring to a how to take his meafures, that the Bogdoi- conclufinn, a regulation of commerce, and Chan gave his confent to it, notwithstanding-. the eitabhlhment of an eafy corrtfponuVncc, all the intrigues of the roiniftry to the con- two empires ; and although the trary. v: H 1 s i s f. min-ftry oppofed, mofl llrenu- f One A of CHINA is exactly 360 gco- ' ' • ■ X' ol the i lid agent at metrical paces. all Mr. DELANGE. i8r all down in my court-yard, was returning; when I or- jvurgh^ dered him to be called back, to inform me of the 172 1. meaning of his fo doing. Upon which he told me, " That it was part of the provisions he had bought for " me, by order of the college who have the charge " of the Emperor's magazines of provifions ; but, that " not being able to bring all at once, he was going to- " fetch the reft." Whereupon, being informed by him what his occupation was, I underftood, " That he had " made a contract, with the faid college, to furnifh me, " every nine days, with a certain quantity of provifions " for my houfe." Upon which I ordered him to take e- very thing away that he faid he had bought for me ; and to bring no more to my houfe, till I mould receive previous information, from the council for foreign af- fairs, how much I was daily to receive by order of the Bogdoi-Chan, and through whofe hands I was to re- ceive them. Whereupon I fent to let the Mandarins (who were appointed to propofe to the council what might regaixL me) know what had occurred wich this man, who came, in the above- manner, to bring me provifions on the pare of the Bogdoi-Chan ; and, alfo, that I mould always mod rcfpectfully receive whatever the Bogdoi- Chan, . l32 JOURNALOF march. Chan, from his friendfhip for his Czarifh Majefty, 1 7 2 1 • fhould order for my fubfiftence, in cafe it was fent me in a proper manner; at the fame time, defiring them to ac- quaint me with the particulars of what the court had ordered for my fubfiftence. Whereupon thofe gentle- men fent me the following anfwer, " That I fhould re- " ceive the fame allowance which I had received before, " during the refidence of the envoy extraordinary at " this court; and that they had already made an agree- " ment to deliver my allowance regularly." I repre- fented to them thereupon, " That I never had any fe- " parace allowance during the refidence of his excel- " lency the envoy at pekin, having had the honour of " eating always at the fame table with him ; that, for " this reaibn, I could now receive nothing, until I mould " know precifcly wherein it was to confift; and that, " after I mould know what the allowance was to be, I " fhould defire them to pay me the amount of the " fame in money, which they were to pay to the pur- " veyor." Thefe gentlemen were not wanting in letting mc know, " That I ought not fo nicely to examine " what the Bogdoi-Chan, without any obligation, had " ordered to be given me, out of his mere grace. But I afTurcd them, in ftrong terms, in my turn, " That I " abfo- M r. D E L A N G E. 183 " abfolutely would receive nothing on thefe terms •> for march, " I was very doubtful whether the Bogdoi-Chari was 1721. " informed, that fuch a perfon was trufted with the dif-^ u pofition of what allowance he was pleafed to order " for me." This refolution much difcompofed the gentlemen Mandarins, who had reckoned on fupply- ing their own tables with my provifions ; but, feeing how difficult it was to obtain their ends on this occa- fion, they at laft delivered to me the following fpeci- fication, and faid it was what the Bogdoi-Chan had or- dered for my allowance, viz. per day, 1 fi(h. 2 oz. of butter. 1 fheep. 2 oz. of lamp- oil. 1 pot of taraflun. 4. gin faked cabbage 1 fowl. 2 fmall meafures of rice. 1 bowl of milk. 1 5 gin of wood. 2 oz. of tea. To my interpreter per day, 1 oz. of tea. 2 fmall meafures of rice. 4. gin of flower. 8 gin of wood, and 2 oz. of butter. Every 9 days a (beep, 2 oz. of lamp-oil. To every one of my domefticks per day, 1 1 gin of beef. 1 meafure of rice. 1 oz. of fait. 5 gin of wood* To 184 J O U R N A L O F march. To a dragoon who was left behind, by the envoy, at 1 7 2 1 • p e k 1 n, upon account of fome tapeftries they were working for his Czarifh Majefty, 1 meafure of rice. 2 oz. of lamp- oil. 1 oz. of tea. 5 gin of wood, and -l gin of flower. Every o, days a fheep. 2 oz. of butter. By laen you are to underftand ounces ; and by gin, pounds. Upon delivering this fpecification, the Mandarins acquainted me, " That, as they were obliged to buy " the fim, the fowls, the fheep, and the milk, for my " provifions, with ready money, I might receive the " value of thofe things in money ; but, in regard to the " other articles, I muft content myfelf to receive them, " in kind, from the Chan's magazines *. Upon which I afTured them, " I fhould make no " objection, provided they did it in a decent manner, " and not by unknown people that marched off as foon * The Emperor of china receives the their falary; fo that all the gold and filver, greatcft part of the tribute of his fubjccls, that comes into the trcafury of the Chan, in the country, in provifions and* manufac- arifes from the tribute of the cities, the turcs of the growth of the fcveral provin- duties inwards and outwards, the tolls of ccs ; which are afterwards diUr^buted, in paffengers, the mines of gold and filver, kind, to all pcrfons in the fcrvice of this and fines or confifcations ; all which toge- monarchy, and reckoned to diem as part of thcr amount, every year, to immenfe funis. it as Mr, DE LANGE, 185 " as they had thrown it down in my court- yard, as march. " they had once done." At the fame time I demanded l 7 21 ' of them, " Whether I could (till have the Chans hor- " fes, to make ufe of when I mould have occafion, as I " had during the refidence of the envoy extraordinary ." They anfwered me thereupon, " That I might certain- " ly have the Chan's horfes always; but then, as the " flables of the Chan were at a confiderable diflance, " it was neceffary for me always to acquaint them of " my intentions, the day before I intended to ride out; " upon fuch notice, they would take care that the hor- " fes mould always be ready at my quarters, very early " in the morning*." To avoid this inconvenience, and to avoid the being obliged to let them know every day where I would go, I took the refolution to buy fix horfes, and to keep them at my own expence, though forage was very dear at pekin. The guard that had been placed upon the envoy's quarters, during the time of his ftay at pekin, under the command of a briga- dier, remained {till on the fame footing afcer his de- parture, as did the two Mandarins of the 37th order j-, * At pekjn they always make vifits in f Every man appointed to any publick town on horfe-back. Hut the Princes of the charge, or dignity, in china, from the high- blood, and the grand Mandarines, are gene- ell to the loweft, is called by the name of rally carried in litters on thefe occafions at- Mandarin ; whence it comes that there are tended with a numerous train of domeilicks. many orders, which are all dilHnguifhcd, Vol. II. A a together l86 JOURNALOF march, together with a clerk, to receive from me whatever I l 7 2lt fhould have to propofe, whether by word of mouth, or by writing; and to make their report to the council of foreign affairs ; and this appeared to me a very good omen. The 9th, the brigadier of the guard of my quarters let me know, that the Bogdoi-Chan would return from hunting the next day; and that if I was defirous to go to meet him, he would give orders, that the Manda- rins mould be ready to efcort me, with a guard of horfe, for the fecurity of my perfon. The i oth, I mounted on horfe-back, very early, to go to meet the Chan. When his majefty faw me, he called me to him, and asked me " If I did not repine " to be alone in a foreign empire, fo far from Europe ?" he further asked, " If I was well? and if I was content- " ed?" Upon which, having with a profound reverence thanked his majefty for my gracious reception, I af- fured him, " That I found myfelf perfectly well; and I '• could not but be well content with having the ho- " nour of refiding at the court of fo grand a monarch." one from the other, by difference of habits, mediately known of what order he is; be- characlers^ and figures, which are cmbroi- caufe every Mandarin is forbid to appear in dcrcd or fewed on their habits; in fo much, public!; without the habit 'of his order, un- that, upon feeing a Mandarin, it may be im- dcr pain of the raoft rigorous penalties. After Mr, D £ L A N G £. ^7 After which his majefty, having difmifled me, was car- march. ried in his litter to pekin, followed by a very name- I 7 21 - rous court. * The 1 itfa, 1 2 th, and 13 th, I notified to the Man- darins, folicitors in my affairs, " That, having feveral * things to get made for the Emperor, my mailer, I " fhould have great occafion for the money which di- " vers merchants of pekin were owing to the commit " fary gusaitnikoff, who had been lately at pekin " with the caravan of Siberia^ ; and I craved their at " (i (lance to facilitate the recovery of thofe fums, fee- " ing the debtors had engaged themfelves, before the " envoy extraordinary, to pay me the fame immediate- " ly after his departure." The Mandarins explained themfelves very favourably thereupon; but our debtors, having got notice of it, retired into the country; which * The Emperor of china might be then peror had confined his two elded fons in a in his 69th lunar year; but he was (till very ciofe prifon, fome years before his death, well difpofed in body and mind, and was upon fome alledged attempts to rebel, true fooked upon as a monarch of fuperior pene- or falfe, and declared them excluded from tration and genius. The fathers Jcfuits, mif- fucceeding to the empire. Neverthelefs their fionaries in china, had great influence with brother fct them at liberty, immediately up- him; and he ufually conlulted them on all on his accellion to the empire, and heaped affairs of importance. He mounted the throne favours on them, to make them forget the anno 1662, aged eight years, and died in lufs of their right, which he polleflcd. September 1722. f They give the title of CommirTary to The Prince, his 3d fon, who already thofe who have the diieclion of the cara- commanded the armies of the empire, fuc- vans, which come from Siberia to pekim cceded 10 the empire ; for the deceafed Em- to trade. A a 2 obliged 188 JOURNAL OF march, obliged me to leave this affair to another opportunity. 1 7 21 * The i cth, the Boo;doi-Chan went to czchan- zchumnienne, which is a houfe of pleafure belonging to his majefty, i 2 ly wellward of pekin, where he fre- quently makes his refidence. But having obferved, in his parting, that the triumphal arches, and other like ornaments, which are raifed on his birch- day, on both fides of the grand road, paved with fquare flat ftones, that reaches from pekin to czchan-zchumnienne, were not of the ufual magnificence, all the miniftry were difgraced for many weeks. Upon which the mi- nifters, having inftantly ordered the demolition of all that had been bulk, eaufed to be built up anew, from the palace of the Emperor at pekin quite to czchan- zchumienne, a great number of triumphal arches, and of mod magnificent columns, of an exquifite tafte, all embellifhcd with gildings, and feftoons of all forts of rich filks of molt lively figures and colours. At the fame time, in fevcral places, they erected theatres of great beauty; where the moil: able comedians exerted their talents, in rcprefenting the moft difficult and curious parts of their profeffions; accompanied with the grand- eft concerts of mufick, both vocal and inftrumental, diverfiiicd with the amufements of dancing, and feats of Mr. DELANGE. I of uncommon agility. All thefe entertainments be- march. ing prepared, the rninifters went in a body to the im- I 7 2I# perial palace, fupplicated the monarch on their knees, with their faces proftrate to the ground, that he would be pleafed to admit them to his good graces; and that he would be pleafed to fend fome, in whom he could confide, to examine their new ftrudtures*. But the Bogdoi-Chan ordered them to be told, " That he " would fee nothing of what they had done, and that " he would never celebrate his birth- day at pekin " more; for that he was as much Emperor of china " at czchan-zchumnienne, as he mould be though " fitting on the imperial throne at pekin-}*." The 17 th, I defired the Mandarins, folicitors for my affairs, to come to me upon bufinefs that regard- ed the council. Upon which they fent me word, that one of them being ill, the other dared not to meddle * The honours which they pay to the well knew, that, in their hearts, they bore Emperors of china approach even to ado- the tartar yoke very impatiently. Never- ration ; all thofe who have audience of him, thelefs, fince the fevere executions he orde- being obliged to proftrate themfelves three red in the beginning of his reign, he feldom times before him, from which none are ex- puninicd with death the great Chinese Man- empted, not even ambafTadors, or other fo- darins, who fell into difgracc, contenting reign rninifters-, Mr. de ismayloff, not- himfelf with condemning them to pay exor- withftanding his quality, being obliged to go bitant pecuniary fines; which incapacitated through that ceremony, as well as all others. them from doing any thing againft his air- f The deceafed Emperor of china held thority, whatever defire they might have (o the great lords of china very cheap ; for he to do. in rcjb J O U R N A L O F march, in matters that regarded the council, without the par- l 7 21 * ticipation of his comrade. This obliged me to wait the recovery of the fick Mandarin, and tijl I could -fee them both together. The 1 8th, 19 th, and 20th, I was willing to avail myfelf of the opportunity the ficknefs of one of my Mandarins gave me, to make fome villts to merchants of my acquaintance, and to the Fathers Jefuits, hop^ ing thereby to induce them to return my villts, and give me opportunity of knowing fomething of the commerce of this empire. But I found that they all received my vifit with very forced civilities, and great referve; particularly the merchants, who endeavoured to appear much occupied about other important af- fairs ; fo that feeing it very difficult to bring them into my views, in the prefent conjuncture, I thought it belt to poftpone thefe forts of villts to a more proper time. But they, not doubting that fuch a reception would occallon my making many reflections, let me know, by a third hand, " That my villts mould be always " moll: agreeable to them, and that they wilhed, with " all their hearts, to divert me every day better than Xi the cuftom of their country permitted them ; and M likewife, on occafion, to come and fee me, were it 44 not Mr. D E L A N G E. rm " not for fear of the foldiers, who followed me every march. "where, which prevented them. For in cafe they I 7 21 - " ihould not place the foldiers in the fame chamber " with themfelves and me, and entertain them with « every thing to their liking, they were capable of ac- " cufmg them of having a clandeftine commerce, of " great importance, with me, or other fufpicious ner- " gotiations, which would not fail of coding them con- " fiderable fums of money, and poffibly might prove " their entire ruin*." It is true, the Fathers JefuitSy eould not alledge fuch fears of the foldiers of my guard as the merchants; their belonging to the court put them on quite another footing than the ordinary rank of people were upon ; but they pretended, that y as they were foreigners, they were obliged to a6t with great caution, in order to prevent fufpicionf. This * The Princes of the houfe of the tar- late Bogdoi-Chan found it necefTary, in or- tars, who at prefent reign in ch in a, have der to augment their number, to make a law, learned, at the expence of their predecefibrs, whereby all the tartar mongalls, men, that they ought not to depend too much on or women, who mould marry with chi- the fidelity of the Chinese; for this rea- nese, were obliged to bring up their chil- fon, all the military of the empire is, in a dren according to the cuiloms of the mon- manner, compofed of mongall tartars, galls, and to teach them the mongalls who, on that account, enjoy confiderable pri- language ; and, that by means of this precau- vileges ; which makes them very infolent and tion, all thofe children fhould be deemed na- almofl infupportable to the Chinese. And turalized mongalls, and enjoy the privi- as the number of thefe tartars were not leges of native mongalls. deemed futiicicnt to curb the Chinese, con- f This was but an excufe of the Jcfuits, Gdciing the valt extent of the empire, the to prevent the villtsof.Mr.de la nge, whofe did Tctp. JOURNAL OF march, did not furprize me at all, in regard to a nation, the 1 7 2 * • genius of which I already had a tolerable knowledge of. The affairs I had to manage were of a very difficult nature; and in all countries the entering properly into fuch ought to be the principal care; but I, neverthe- lefs, flattered myfelf that this unpromifing afpecl:, at my entering on my functions, would take a more fa- vourable turn, as foon as the Bogdoi-Chan fhould re- ceive the credentials I had from the Emperor, my mafter. The .2 2d, my Mandarins came together to fee me, and to know what I had to propofe to the council; up- on which I requefted them " 1. To put the Allegamba, or prefident of the " council for foreign affairs, in mind, in my name, that " they had let my credentials, from the Emperor my " mafter, remain in my hands beyond the ufual time; " and that I waited, through his hands, the order of " the Bodgoi-Chan, to appoint when he would pleafe " to receive them. " 2. To acquaint the prefident, that I had refolved " to hire a houfe for myfelf, near the quarters of the redding at pekin could not be very agree- of his empire, and would fufFer no other Ro- uble to them ; as it was to a<5t in the affairs of man catholic miflionaries, but the ca- 2 monarch who had turned all the Jefuits out pu c h i n s, to refidc in his dominions. " RUSSI- Mr. DE LANGE. 193 * Russians, againft the arrival of the caravan; to the march. " end that the faid quarters might be repaired, which, 1 72 1 . " from age, were gone to ruin, and might be entirely " beat down by the approaching rainy feafon; that, un- " lefs this reparation be made, the commifTary would " not know where to lodge on his arrival at pekin, ex- " cept he would run risk of having the merchandifes " damaged. " 3. To demand, forme, a paffport, with the ne- " ceflfary efcort, for fome baggage, left at pekin dur- " ing the time of the ambaffade, which I wanted to " fend, out of hand, to selinginsky *." The faid bag- gage was fome raw filk which I had bought on account of Mr. nicolai christizy, with cafh and effe&s that he had left in my hands j\ The anfwer, which I received immediately after from thofe gentlemen, contained in fubftance, ." That " the Emperor himfelf having allotted that houfe for * Selinginsky is the laft fortrefs, be- that is fown or planted there thrives ex- longing to russia, towards the north-wed ceedingly. of c h 1 n a. This town is in the country f Through all russia they ufe hard- of the mongalls, upon the eaft fide of ly any other (ilk but that of china, which the river selinga, 30 days journey from is undoubtedly the beft in the world; it pekin, in lat. 51. 30. The climate of se- being certain, that two pounds of Chinese linginsky is very mild, and the country filk will go as far in manufacturing as three about it very pleafant. The mongall pounds of either Persian or italiak t a r t a r s did not accuftom thtmfelves to filk. ^ the cultivation of ground, yet every thing Vol. II. B b "my 1^4 journal or march. c m Y quarters, no perfon would readily infinuate to 172 1. " him that I was not fatisfied with it ; and that, with* " out a fpecial licence from him, no perfon in all pe- c kin, were it even the imperial Prince himfelf, would 11 dare to let me a lodging, feeing ic would thereby " look as if the Bogdoi-Chan had not an inhabitable u houfe for a foreigner." To which I replied, " That I " made no doubt of fo great a monarch's having hou- " fes enough for lodging as many foreigners as he " pleafed ; but, chat I was well perfuaded, when the " Bogdoi-Chan fhould be informed of the condition " that houfe was in, he would not oblige me to inha- " bit it longer. Befides, that it was acting contrary to " the common right, allowed by all the world, to re- c {train a perfon, in a publick character, from hiring a t ^°^» tn S^ with h* s own mon ^y, which might be com- *- modious for him, without a previous application to- " the Emperor himfelf." They anfwered me there- upon " That the ufages in Europe were not practifed ' k by them ; and, as all the countries in the world had " their particular cuftoms, china had her's, which " would not be altered on any confideration whatever." They alfo told me plainly, " That they could not write ' 10 the council on this fubject, for that they knew of "a Mr. DE LANGE. 195 " a certainty, that no perfon durft make the propofiti- march. " on to the Emperor." Upon which having told them, 1 72 k " That, as the cafe was fo, I mud: fubmit to remain " there, till the impoffibility of abiding longer may " force me to have recourfe to other meafures." They, of themfelves, propofed to me, " That the Chan " might be petitioned to allot me other quarters, with- " out alledging that my prefent quarters were in fo mi- " ferable a condition." But feeing I did not pretend to go out, but becaufe it was in fuch a ruinous ftate, they perfifted in faying, it was impoffible for them to make the propofal to his Majefty on that footing. The 23 d, the aforefaid Mandarins came again to me to acquaint me, " That the president would confult " the other members of the council upon my creden- " tial letters, and would put the Emperor in remem- < brance, when occafion mould offer. But, concerning " the fending away the baggage, I muft have patience " till after the Emperor's birth- day, feeing the prepara- " tions for its celebration fo fully employed every body, " that nothing elfe was attended to, though of ever fo " great confequence." Bb 2 APRIL. ip<5 JOURNAL OF APRIL. APRIL. 172 1. The 1 ft of this month, the Aloy, or mafter of the ^y^ ceremonies of the Chan, invited me, by order of the Bogdoi-Chan, to come to czchan-zchumnienne. Upon which I went there inftantly. I was no fooner arrived, but I fent to notify the fame to the faid Aloy, and forthwith went to his apartment. I underftood from him, that the Bogdoi-Chan had an intention to have admitted me that day to an audience, but that other affairs had unexpectedly interveened ; he had ordered him to deliver to me a piece of the tapeftry which they were at work upon for the Czar, in order that I might fend it to Russia by an exprefs, and acquaint the Czar, that what pieces remained to be made mould be ready in three months *. I laid hold of this opportunity of the pafTports and convoy neceflary for the piece of ta- peftry, to requeft of this gentleman, " That he would " be fo good as to manage it fo, as that, when his Ma- " jefty mould give order for the paftport and convoy l - for the piece of tapeftry, I mould, at the fame time, be furnifhed with paftports for the baggage above- * The tapeftry of c h 1 n A Is generally are not adjufled to funiifhing of rooms, made of f.ttin, embroidered with large fi- unlcfs befpoke on purpofe, or compofed of gurcs of gold ?jid filk ; the colours very many different pieces. bnghr> lf.it the defi^ns not correct ; diey " menti* Mr. DE LANGE. 197 " mentioned, which I had to forward ; and that he AP ri L . " would pleafe to be at the trouble of informing him- 1721. " felf, when his Majefty would be pleafed to receive " my letters of credence from the Czar, with which I " was charged." Whereupon the Aloy defired me to remain at his lodgings, whilft he went to make the pro- pofal to the Emperor; and, at his return, he acquaint- ed me, " That his Majefty would, out of hand, give " orders to the council, that they mould furnifh me " with the paflports and convoy neceffary, as well for " the tapeftry as the baggage I wanted to fend ; but that " it could not be till after the birth- day." That as to the letters of credence, he did not find it proper ta mention it to the Emperor, it appearing to him that his Majefty frequently thought of me, and would not forget my letters of credence f; and gave me, in fome f The late Emperor of china, not- fuch birds were in their country ; and now* withstanding his great age, had fo extraor- arrfwering, No, the Emperor asked him why dinary a memory, till a little time before his he did not tell him the truth ; and, if he death, that a flemish jesuit, who is yet did not remember, that, at fuch a time, he at p E k 1 n, recounted to one in the retinue told him there were fuch birds in their coun- of Mr. de ismayloff, that, above 20 try; upon which the father j e s u r t de- years ago, this monarch haymg mown him a clared, that he had been fo long out of hia. wood-picker, asked him if there were fuch own country, that he really did not know birds in their country ; and, having an- whether there was or not. The Emperor- fwered yes, he asked its name in flemish; was very merry upon the Jesuit's having., that, fome time after the arrival of Mr. de forgot his mother-tongue ; and told hinr ismayloff, the Emperor, having caft his the bird's name in flemish. eye on fuch a bird, asked him then, alfo, if ineafurSr l 9 8 JOURNALOF april. meafure, an aflurance that the Chan would not long 1721. defer the receiving it. And then he made his excufes <>rv ^ ; that he could not longer wait on me, being obliged in- ftantly to return to the court. The 2d, according to cuftom, the birth- day of his Majefty mould have been celebrated, with the utmoft magnificence, at czchan-zchumnienne ; but, inas- much as his Majefty was ftill difpleafed with his mini- fters, he only received the ordinary compliments on that occafion, without any other ceremony ; after which every body retired to their own houfes. I had, among others, the honour of paying my compliments to his Majefty on that occafion. That which appeared, to me, moft worthy of obfervation, at that time, was 3000 old men, the youngeft of which was above 60 years old; which, by exprefs order of the Emperor, had been brought, to pek in, from all the provinces of the em- pire. They were all drefled in yellow, which is the colour of the imperial liveries, and marched, in parade, to czchan-zchumnienne, where they ranged them- felves in the court of the caftle, and had the honour of making their compliments to the Emperor ; after which his Majefty diftributed to every one, without diftincti- on, 4 laen of filver, and fent them home. The ^y^r^J Mr. DE LANGE. 199 The fame day, the parfon of the church of st. ni- april. colas at pekin *, prefented me with a memorial of 1721. fome debts which he had owing him y by diverfe per- fons of that city, on account of the deceafed Archi- mandrite ; praying my afftftance in the affair. The 3d, having received, from the council, the ne- eeflary paiTport for the courier I was to difpatch with the piece of tapeftry, I ditpatched him, the fame day, under the efcort of a Chinese courier. The 8th, fome unknown people, having entered my houfe, told me, by my interpreter, " That they had " bought for me a certain number of fheep; but, if I " would not receive them in kind, they were ready to " pay me half a laen of fdver for every fheep." I re* turned them in the fame manner I did the former, let- ting them know, " That fome perfon of the college, " which had the direction of the Emperor's magazines u of provisions, muft come to me to mow me thofe * Thofe of the greek religion have the head uncovered ; no women appear but one church at pekin; but the roman there, having a feparate apartment in the catholics have three churches very mag- churches. The late Emperor fav red the nificently built, where there refort, on Sun- worfliip of the romish church to fudh a days and Holidays, a number of people of degree, that he ordered that ..11 the fons of all conditions, the roman catholic Mandarins, who made dieir (Indies under the religion being tolerated there; but it is direction of the esuits. mould be obli- remarkabk, that the men do not uncover ged to go, all Sundays and Holiday.*, to their heads during divine fervice, becaufe it their churches; which gave great uneafmels s* a mark of infamy, among, them, to have to the chine sx Conzts. - c who 200 JOURNALOF april. " wno were to bring me provifions." They attempted 172 1. ftill, on feveral occafions, to bring in wood and other provifions, in the fame way, to my houfe, without my being able to know who they were, or who fent them. The 1 1 th, I received the pafsport for the baggage of Mr. nicolai christizy, which I difpatched two days after from pekin, under the efcort of a Chinese courier. The prefident of the council letting me know, at the fame time, " That I ought not to fend ma- " ny of thofe expeditions, as long as the new treaty of " commerce, between the two empires, was unratified " in the accuftomed forms; feeing it was not under- " flood, that they confented to a continual paflage, by " fmall caravans; which I myfelf fufficiently knew the " reafons for, having affifted at all the conferences held " on that fubjecV The 1 3 th, I learned that the Bogdoi-Chan was about to fet out inftantly for iegcholl, which is a town new- ly built, with a magnificent caftle, without the great wall 440 ly, or two days by poll:, eaftward of pekin, where he ufually paiTes the fine feafon of the fummer in hunting, and other country diverfions. The 14th, I mounted on horfe-back to go to the prefident of the council; being arrived at the gate, the guard Mr. DE LANGE. 401 guard made me wait till they had acquainted him of april. my being there; immediately after which he fent one 172 1. of his fervants to inform himfelf " Whether I came " purely on a vifit, ox had occafion to fpeak to him " about bufinefs ; and, that in cafe I came about bufi- " nefs, that I mould communicate the fame to his fcr- " vant, that he might inform his mafter of the fub- " je£t, of it." I made my compliments to the prefident by the meffenger, and told him, " That I came to pay " a vifit to his mafter; but as to the bufinefs I came u about, that concerned the mafter not the fervant." After which the fame fervant returning, told me, " That I would be welcome to his mafter*." Where- upon, entering into the court-yard, the prefident came out of his apartment to receive me; and having taken me by the hand, after fome reciprocal compliments, he led me into an open faloon, where we fat down to- gether, and were ferved with tea and milk, according to the Chinese manner. After fome time, I defir- cd that he would put the Bogdoi-Chan in remem- brance, that I had letters to prefent to him from the Czar, my mafter; and that I ihould be very glad to * In china, when they go to fee a Man- to put on the habit peculiar to his order; darin, of what order foever, upon bufinefs upon failure whereof, he is amerced in large regarding his office, the Mandarin is obliged fines. Vol. II. ? C c know 202 JOURNAL OF april. know if he would be pleafed to receive them before 1 72 1 . his departure. He anfwered me thereupon as the ma- Vky ^^°'fter of ceremonies had done before, " That his Ma- " jefty was well informed of it, and would know him- " felf when he would have time to receive them, with- " out being put in mind of it; and that, if we fhould " put his Majefty in remembrance of it, that would " look as if he or I wanted ta prefcribe the time of do- " ing it to his Majefty." I fought, by all ways poffible, to engage him one way or other in this affair, but all in vain; and I was obliged to hold this for an anfwer; after which he added, " That if his Majefty had refolv- " ed not to receive my letter of credence, he would not " have confented to my refiding at his court, in quality " of agent ; and that Mr. de ism a yl off having fufficient- " ly explained the reafons of my ftay in pekin, thefe " letters could contain nothing very prefllng." Upon which I replied to him, " That in Europe the monarchs " were not accuftomed, when the Czar wrote letters to " them, to let fuch a length of time pafs without re- 44 ceiving them; nor take it amifs, from their minifters, " if they put them in mind of fuch important affairs; " that I never expected fuch an anfwer in china; but " yet, as it was what I could not remedy, I muft bear " ic Mr. D E L A N G E. 203 " it patiently, till fuch time as his Majefty was difpofed april. " to receive them." 1721. The 1 6th, I mounted again on horfeback to go to^^*^^^ fee the Alegada, or firfl: minifter, in hopes of getting a refolution more favourable to my affair, than I got from the prefident of the council. Being arrived at his houfe, I was indeed admitted to come into his court- yard; but, as I had no defire to go into the rooms of his fervants, I was obliged to remain in the court till they notified to him my being there. He, like the o- ther, fent a fervant to me, to inform himfelf of the reafon of my coming. To whom I fignified, that I wanted the honour of feeing him, and of acquainting him with an affair which I did not think proper to ex- plain to a fervant. The fame fervant returned very foon to me, faying, " My mafter thanks you, Sir, for " the trouble you have given yourfelf ; he is very well, " but it is not convenient for him to fee you." The 1 7th, I was again in his neighbourhood; and having fent my interpreter to him to ask permilTion to fee him for a moment; he fent me word, that it was impofUble, becaufe he was that inftant going to his Ma- jefty; and that he did not know when he ihould have time to fpeak with me. Whereupon, feeing this was C c 2 an 204 JOURNAL OF april. an a ff a "* that could not be forced, I refolved to let it 172 1. ly dormant for fome time. The 19th, I went to fee a German Father Jefuit; who, being an old acquaintance, and a friend of mine from my firft journey to china, made no fcruple of tel- ling me, that many of the principal Mandarins of chi- na much difapproved of the Chan's confenting to my remaining at pekin*. But that as there was no per- fon, in all the empire, that was bold enough to dare contradicl the will of the Emperor, unlefs they would expofe themfelves to very great danger, it was very probable they would, by degrees, accuftom themfelves to my being thercf*. He faid to me, alfo, that he had frequently fent his fervant to me with his compliments; but that the guard at my door had as often turned him back, as a perfon who had no bufinefs at my houfe. Neverthelefs, he did not think they would have been * The Chinese regard their ancient order to keep the chine sk quiet, occafion- laws and cufloms as facred and inviolable; ed fuch a dread in all the Chinese, that the and it is not to be wondered at, that they, greatefl lords of the empire could not ap- \v;th great reluctance, fuffer the refidence of proach his perfon without fear and tremb- a Russian agent at pikin; as it is directly ling. Nevertheless,, this monarch was far contrary to the fundamental conftitutions of from being a tyrant, in reality; for he was pire; which abfolutely forbid the chi- a true lover of juftice, and fparcd the blood nese to go out of the empire, and the ad- of his fubjefls as much as poiliblc. He had of foreign' rs to an abode in it. forbid, under the nioft fevcre penalties, the f The frequent executions which the putting a criminal to death, for what crime late F.mpen r of china was obliged to caufe foever, unlefs lie fhould confirm and fign the to be nude, in. the early part of his reign, ia ftntence of death with his own hand. fo Mr. DE L A N G E. 205 fo untraceable, if he would have given them a piece of april. money. He mod ftrongly enjoined to take no notice 1721 of what he told me ; for he would by no means appear in this affair, it was fufficient that I was informed by him, in order to take my meafures thereupon when oc- casion offered. There are at pekin a great number of fmall mer- chants, or rather pedlars, who, as foon as they hear of any foreigners being arrived from Russia, or other parts, bring to their quarters all forts of merchandife, which they get partly from the brokers, and partly from other houfes of different forts of people, who may have any goods which they would be willing to difpofe of; and ic is often better to deal with thefe ped- lars, for all forts of curiofities, and for made filks, than with the {hop-keepers ; for which reafon I bid fome of thefe people bring to my houfe, from time to time, what they fhould light upon mod curious in its kind, whether in rich filks, or jewels, or other goods of value, to the end that I might acquire a competent know- ledge of all the forts of merchandife to be got in this city. Upon which they reprefented to me, that I might well believe that they fought nothing more than to gain a litcle money, it being their trade; an J of confe- quence 2o6 JOURNAL OF april. qucnce they would not fail of doing as I defired them, 1 7 2 1 . if my houfe was occupied by different perfons ; becaufc ^^^^^what goods were not liked by one might find a buyer in another, and fo they might probably always fell fome- thing; but as I alone occupied the houfe, and had fuch a numerous guard at the gate, they did not know how to do it; becaufe, before they were permitted to enter my houfe, they were obliged to agree with the foldiers of the guard, how much they were to pay them on their going out; and, whether they fold any thing or not, they were equally obliged to pay the money they agreed to for the permifHon of entry. The 20th, I fend to demand of the Mandarins, who had the care of my affairs, " If it was with their know- " ledge that the foldiers of the guard that were at my " gate, did not permit any perfon to enter my houfe " without their giving them money? They, in anfwer, let me know, " That they knew nothing of the matter; " but they would not fail to make inquiry, and if they " found, that the foldiers, through ignorance, had done " fuch a thing, they would put things in better order " for the future." And I found that they had fpoke to the officers of the guard, who told them, " They had " flricl orders to guard this houfe, and take particular " care Mr. D E L A N G E. 207 " care that the common people, who are generally very AiyRIL# " infolent, fhould not find means of coming into the 1721. " court-yard to fteal any thing ; and as they were to be u anfwerable, they were obliged to ufe the precautions " neceffary, to this effect." They came to report this to me, as an unanfwerable argument. But I afiured them, that whenever the guard admitted people to enter my ho ufe, during the day-time, I would not make them anfwerable for any robbery that might hap- pen at my houfe; for that I had a fufficient number of my own fervants to drive out of my court-yard any perfons who fhould dare to come there without having bufinefs. It muft be obferved, on this occafion, that the Chi- nese have the cuftom of explaining themfelves but once on one propofal; and, having once given an an- fwer upon a matter, whatfoever it be, they always hold themfelves upon this anfwer, as an infallible argument ; fo that if you turn an affair into twenty different lights, to convince them, by one means or other, of their er- ror, or to make them alter their fentiments, it is all loft trouble; they firmly holding by their firft word. And it is a general rule with the Chinese, high and low, in all they have to do with foreigners; in fo much that 2o8 JOURNAL OF april. tnat every time a propofal is made to them, which 1 72 1. their intereft or vanity may incline them not to ap- prove, it may be certainly depended upon, that, after infinite difputes, you will be obliged to receive the firfl words, which they pronounced in the beginning, for an anfwer, be it agreeable or difagreeable. The 2 1 ft, I fpoke with the brigadier of my guard about this affair, who is a perfon generally efteemed by all the people of merit in the empire ; fome years paft, he had filled the greateft pofts of the ftate, but was difgraced, and made brigadier on account of the bad conduct of his brother. I can truly fay, this is the moft worthy man I have known in china, full of honour, reafon, and probity, and the Fathers Jefuits - agreed with me, that there was not his equal in all this great empire. He difapproved very much the conduct of the officers and foldiers of my guard; but he repre- fented to me, at the fame time, " That having precife " orders from the Emperor, that all forts of the lower " people mould be prevented from entering or leaving " my houfe at their pleafure, to the end that no infult " might be offered me; he could not avoid giving the " fame orders to the officers of my guard; but to pre- " vent the abufe of his orders, for time to come, he " would Mr. D E L A N G E. 209 " "would come regularly twice a- week to my quarters, APR i L . " to have an eye on their behaviour." Which gave me 1 72 1. opportunities of making a particular friendship -with him; but neither mine, nor all the threats which the brigadier gave to the officers and foldiers on this head, nor the rigorous treatment he made them feel on feve- ral occafions, could get the better of the infatiable a- varice of thefe military people, who look upon it as their right to exact contributions of thofe who trade with foreigners. In fhort, it would have become infup- portable to me, to be at the mercy of the chicanes that this pretended guard of honour ftudied to vex me with every day, if I had not had the hope that my cre- dential letters would be very foon received ; and that I fhould then be able to do my affairs with more fatis- f action. The 23 d, my interpreter having met one of our debtors, he put* him in mind of the promifes he had made to Mr. de ismayloff; and aflured him, that, if he deferred fatisfying me, he mould be arretted, feeing this affair would not allow of more prolongation. Up- on which he promifed to come to me, in two or three days, with his comrades, and to endeavour, to the ut- moft of his power, not to come empty handed. Vol. II. D d The it* JOURNAL OF april. The 26th, two of thefe debtors came to my houfe 172 1. with a Chinese merchant who was their fecurity; they told me that one of their partners, named dzchun- dzchan, who was indebted to u$ in 1400 laen of fine filver, died the year before. But, as I was apprifed that three of them were firmly bound in fuch cafe, one for the other, which they could not themfelves gainfay, this fum muft be brought to the account of the furvi- vors. Of thefe two debtors which came to my houfe, the one, named dzchin-borche, was ftill in arrear 70a laen, according to what my interpreter faid, but he ac- knowledged no more than 650 laen*, the other, called dzchin-sanga, was to deliver 340 thun of kitaika*on the arrival of the next caravan at pekin, and this by virtue of an obligation which he had given to the commiffary gusaitnicoff, payable to him, or order. I told them, " That though I had not in my hands 6i the obligation he had given to Mr. gusaitni- " coff, that need not hinder their paying the debt " to mc, if not all at once, at leaft, by little and lie- " tie, according as their abilities would enable them, " feeing this money was to come into the treafury * \ fort of glazed cotton, calendered and fmoothed, which they make in china, of all r rrts of colours, whereof they fell great quantities through all the northern asia. " of Mr. DELANGE. 211 H of his Czarifh Majefty, and that, as foon as they APRIL " paid the whole, I would give them an obligation of 1 7 2 1 . " indemnity, which would make their obligations to gusaitjsigoff of no value j\ Upon which they re- plied, " That they could not object to this expedient, " and that conformable to their promifes to the envoy * extraordinary, to give me entire fatisfacTion there- " upon, they would not fail to do it, fo as I fhould re- " ceive part of their debts before the end of the " month." Thefe promifes continued, from day to day, without any part of them being fulfilled ; and as I knew, by my own experience, that there are no where worfe paymafters than in china, unlefs they can be compel- led by force, I was obliged to fall on other methods. MAY. The 1 ft, I delivered to my Mandarins two memori- als on the fubject. of thofe debts, and the debts of the parfon of st. Nicholas, defiring they would prefent them to the council, and communicate to me the an- f The commerce between russia and treaty, they can fend no more than one ca- c h 1 n a is, at preient, a monopoly belong- ravan a-year, from Siberia to pekin, ing to the treafury of s i e e r. i a ; no o- which doth not confift of more than 200 ther fubjects of russia being to concern perfons ; inftead of 1 000 and more, which themfelves in it , on pain of death , un- they amonnted to heretofore, and which were lefs employed by the crown, and for ac- fubfiftcd at the charge of the Chan ofem- count of the crown; though it is often e- na, whilft they were on the territories of yaded by connivance of the Weywodes on china; but now they are to fubiift upon the frontier places. By virtue of the laft their own charges. D d 2 fwer 2I2 JOURNAL OF may ^ wer wn i cn tne Y m °uld receive on them. The fame 1 72 1. day my Mandarins put into my hands 82 laen and 26 Vs/V ^^fun of fine filver ; faying, " That his Majefty had or^ " dercd this fum to be paid me for the value of the " fheep, fifh, fowls, and milk, for two months paft; and " for the time to come, every 9 days, a clerk from the " imperial treafury would bring me 1 2 laen and 3 7 " fun, in payment for the faid proviflons ; and that the " other allowances, which I was to receive in kind, " mould be like wife fent me by a clerk of the maga- " zines from whence they were taken." So that all 1 mould receive for my monthly allowance, in money and provifions, would amount, according to the cur- rent prices, to 48 laen; but they allowed me no forage for my horfes, which is a conflderable arcicle at pekin, where forage is extremely dear. Afcer which, during the reft of this day, the weather was very bad, a great deal of rain, with mighty gufts of wind; the old houfe, where I was lodged, could no longer ftand the bad weather; all the wall of one fide of my chamber fell, about midnight, into the court-yard; which made me very apprehenfive for what remained. I was obliged to retire into an adjoining chamber, to avoid, in fome meafure, the danger to which I found myfelf expofed ; Mr. D E L A N G E. 215 as this chamber, though a forry place, was very low, I M ± Y . found myfelf in lefs danger; befides, it was not quite 172 1. fo old and infirm as the other. »s/y\~> The next day, the 2d of this month, I advertifed my Mandarins of what had happened ; praying them to caufe immediate reparation to be made, if not of the whole houfe, of that apartment where I lodged at lead. Whereupon they fent to allure me it fhould be done without lofs of time. But, on the 4th, they changed their note; and let me know that they could do nothing in it before the departure of the Emperor, feeing the college, which had the care of the buildings, were fo much employed about the court, that they could give no attention to other affairs for the prefent. Whereupon I offered to repair it by people I would hire on my own expences. But they wanted to impofe upon me in the price. And the Mandarins protefted to me, that it was an affair that "might be their utter ruin, if the Emperor mould come to know that they had confented to my repair- ing, with my money, a houfe that belonged to him ; but they affured me, they mould fet to work upon it very foon. The 8th, the Bogdoi-Chan departed for jegcholl; and. 214 JOURNAL OF may. an ^j having the honour to attend him, on this occanV 1 72 1 . on, to 1 5 ly from pekin, his Majefty asked me, * If I *^ J <* expe&ed the caravan foon." I anfwered thereupon, 4t That I had not received any advices from the com- " miliary; but, neverchelefs, I computed that the cara- •• van might be at pekin in two months from that *■ time." Whereupon he asked me, " If I would not V come and pafs the time, with the court, at jeg- *' choll." I received fuch a gracious invitation with all due fubmiffion; promifing to come to pay my devoirs to his Majefty at jegcholl as foon as poflible *. But, on my returning to pekin, the governor of the city let me know, " That I could not follow the Emperor, be- " fore his Majefty had fent the neceflary orders to him " and the council to give me poft-horfes, and the ef- *' cort of Mandarins, which I fhould have occafion for *■ in this journey." In the mean time, I made feveral agreements, with diverfe perfons, for different forts of japanned ware, which his Czarifh Majefty wanted to have, which I could not get at the ufual price, becaufc * The late Emperor of china was ex- be known, either by his complexion, or fea- tremely affable and gracious towards euro- tures, to be of tartar extraction ; it was peans, more efpecially to thofe who ex- only to be obferved, that his cheek-bones, celled in any fcience. He was taller than under his eyes, were a little rifing and pro- ufual for people of his country ; and not to minent, like the mongalls. thofe Mr. DE L A N G E. 215 thofe who fupplied me with them, were obliged to give MAY . a great part of what they gained on them every day to 1 72 1 . the foldiers of my guard, for the liberty of entering my houfe. The 10th, my Mandarins being come to fee me, one of them took leave of me ; being, as he told me, named by the court to go, in quality of envoy, to the Delay-Lama-f-; and the other gave me pofitive afTu- rances, that, early the next morning, the workmen fhould begin to repair my quarters; and that they had already provided the materials necefTary for that pur- pofe. In regard to my two memorials, concerning the debts above mentioned, he gave me for anfwer, " That " the prefident would not receive them ; not finding it " proper to meddle with fuch trifling things; as he " had before hand told Mr. de ismayloff himfelf, * ' that the council would abfolutely not embarrafs them- " felves with any affair of debts; that, neverthelefs, he " had ordered his Mandarin to prefs the debtors to " difcharge their debts, in cafe they were in a condi- " tion of paying fuch fums." f The Delay- Lama is the fovereign pon- mortal. He lives in a convent near the ciry tifof the Kalmucks, mongals, and ma- of potala, in the kingdom of tangute, nv other idolatrous nations north of the upon an high mountain, fouth of th; dc r . : ta indies. He is adored as a god by all thefe of xame, toward the frontiers of china. people; and, by them, believed to be im- Vide Hiji. Geneaftg, des tartares. The 216 JOURNALOF may. The 20th, my Mandarin coming, flopped at my 172 1. gate, and having learned that my apartment remained ^ ^ Q-ill in the fame condition, he fent one of his fervants to make his excufes to me, for not coming to fee me ; alledging, that the great heat approaching at noon would, he feared, incommode him. But I caufed him to be told, for my whole anfwer, " That I did not under- " (land fuch a compliment ; and that I wifhed, with all " my heart, that, in time to come, he would difpenfe " with coming to my houfe at all." Upon this anfwer he thought fit to come himfelf to me, and to complain much of the negligence of the college, which had the care of the buildings, in not adverting to the repair of my houfe, notwithftanding he had wrote to them, feveral times, on the fubject, in the mod preffing terms. I demanded of him, " What he believed the Czar, my " mafter, would think of fuch ufage as he fhowed me; " and, if he was not afraid, that, in time, he might be ' ; made refponfible for fuch treatment. " But he, laughing, told me, " That there paffed many other " things with them, and of more importance than this " was, without daring to carry complaints to the Chan, " and he did not doubt but that it was the fame at " our court." Neverthelefs the brigadier of my guard, on Mr. DELANGE. 217 on being informed of the affair, went to the Manda- MAY# rins of that college, and threatened them with his go- 172 1. ing himfelf to acquaint the Emperor, that, by their negligence, they contributed to the diminution of his glory in foreign countries, if they did not, without fur- ther delay, caufe my houfe to be repaired the very next day. The 25th, At length there came workmen to put my apartment into an habitable (rate. The fame day one of our debtors, named dzchin-sanga, brought me 50 thun of kitaika; but I faw no appearance of get- ting any thing from the others, they being very poor and indigent; and I perceived that the proceedings of our Mandarin, with them, tended more to get fome little prefents from them to himfelf, from time to time, than ferioufly to prefs them to the difcharge of our debt. In the months of June, July, and a part of Auguft, there parTed nothing material regarding me, either at the court, or with the miniftry; all thofe of any di- flinction being gone to partake of country diverfions. Wherefore, I (hall fill this vacation by a faithful report of the obfervations which I could make, during my ftay at this court, as well myfelf, as by fome of my Vol. II. E e friends 2i8 JOURNAL OF 172 1. friends, of the prefent ftate of trade in the city of pe- ^/W^kin; but I muft, at the fame time, acknowledge to the reader, that there is much wanting to make the obfer- vations fuch as they ought to be, and might have been if I had not been fo (heightened, and if they had let me enjoy the means of informing myfelf thoroughly of things. The people of korea, who are tributary to china, come twice a year to pekin, *viz. in the months of March and Auguft, to the number of 40 or 50 per- fons, as well to pay their tribute to the Emperor as to carry on their trade; which confifts principally in the following merchandifes. A fort of large paper made of raw-filk, fomething like the large paper for wrapping up things in Europe. They make ufe of this paper in china, for windows, in place of glafs. Paper, with gold or filver figures, for hanging their chambers. * Korea is a pcninfula, caftward of the any commerce with Grangers. Ncverthelefs» grand wall of china; it is contiguous, on they do not fail to come clandestinely with the weft, to the province of leotang of their goods, by the fea of j a p a n, to the china, and on the north to the eastern river amoor, and thence by the naunda mongalls. The k o r e a n s are, from to the city naun, to traffick. with the mon- time immemorial, tributaries of china, who galls, and indirectly with the Russians. treat them very hardly, not permitting thero All M r. D E L A N G E. 319 All forts of large fans, of different fafhions. 172 1. Mats, very neat and fine, which they ufe in fummer^V"\J in place of matraffes. Cut tobacco, very fmall, for fmoking, much efteem- ed in china, and preferred to that of their own growth. Stripped cotton-fluffs. A fort of furs which the russes call chorky, and which they call colouk in Siberia; it is in great abun- dance in korea; they fell a great deal of it in pekin. A fort of dry-fifh, which they get from a certain large fhell-nfh in the fea of japan. It is with thefe commodities that they trade; and although they may, in a manner, be confidered as the fame nation with the Chinese, and in fome degree their fubjects, yet they do not enjoy the leaft liberty during their abode at pekin; all communication and converfation with foreigners being abfolutely forbidden them, and much reftricted with the Chinese them- felves; infomuch, that the Chinese are not lefs fufpi- cious of them, than of any other nation whatfoever. As they cannot make by their trade any thing to a confidcrable amount, they generally bring with them to pekin large fums in filver, in Spanish pieces of eight, E e 2 and 220 JOURNAL OF 1721. an d m dutch dollars, which are looked upon, in chi- ^/V^^na, as inferior to the fine filver of china, which they call the Chan's filver, by 5, 6, or 7 p. cent, which fhows i that the inhabitants of korea have fome trade with the iflands of japan, or, at leaft, with the iflands ly- ing between japan and korea; although it is abfo- lutely forbid the inhabitants of that country to have the leaft communication, or commerce, with other na- tions, or to admit foreign fhips into their ports; hav- ing, for that end, a Mandarin always refiding in Ko- rea, to have an eye on the proceedings of that nation. With this money they buy, at fekin, The fineft raw-filk. A fort of damask, called by the russes goly, and by the Chinese couty-toanza, that is damask of korea; becaufc, at firft, the Koreans alone bought that fort of damask. A fort of fluff mixed with filk, fit for linings, called by the Chinese fanfa. Tea and china-ware. All forts of dimes of white copper, for houfhold ufe. Cotton. They likewife buy the tails of fables, to border their caps and the collars of their robes. It Mr. D E L A N G E. 22* It is likely that they trade into other parts with the 1-721. filk and damask, which they carry from pekin, feeing they take away much greater quantities than the con- fumption of their own country can require. When there is no Russian caravan, nor any of thac nation at pekin, they quarter thofe of korea in the habitation appointed for the russes; but when there are russes in this city they give the Koreans other quarters : for this reafon the Chinese call this houfe couty coanne, or magazine of the Koreans, when it is occupied by the Koreans; and urussa coanne, or magazine of the russes, when occupied by people of that nation. When the Koreans, whether deputies from that country or merchants, arrive at pekin, there are two Mandarins forthwith named to go to their lodgings to obferve who goes in to them, or comes out from them ; and to examine the caufe of their coming, and how they became acquainted with the Koreans: they like- wife place guards all around their quarters, to pre- vent any perfon from having private accefs to them. When any of this nation go abroad, upon any affair, the guard follows them every where, with large whips, to prevent any perfon from joining them in the flreet; and 221 JOURNAL OF 1 72 1. an d they dare not g° to fee any perfon without permit fion of the guard. As the inhabitants of korea are not ufed to ride on horfeback, and are afraid to mount a horfe, for fear of accidents, they give them a guard of infantry, who have no other arms, when they are in garrifon, than their whips. Befides all thefe fteps, full of fufpicion, they fix, at their quarters, an edicl of the court, fignifying, that all perfons whatfoever are for- bid to enter their houfe without the knowledge of the Mandarin, deputed for that purpofe, who, after examining them as to what they have to do there, takes notice of their names, and fends a foldier into the houfe with them to obferve what panes. It is a very profitable commifTion for thofc Mandarins who are deputed to guard the Koreans; for they always farm the priviledge of trading with them to that com- pany of Chinese merchants who offer the mod mo- ney for it, which fometimes amounts to a confiderable fum; and it is by no means permitted to any other merchants, befides the members of this company, to trade, for that time, with the Koreans. The Chinese have not, in a manner, any trade with the indies, * excepting fome fmall dealings they may * Chi ma is fcparatcd from the country of the Great Mogul by fandy deferts, impaf- have Mr, DE LANGE, it j have on the frontiers of the neighbouring ftates ; but it 1 7 2 r . was impoffible for me to get to the knowledge of what v ~^ v ^- ; thofe trades confided in; for, among a thoufand people of the inhabitants of pekin, it is rare to find one per- fon who hath the lead knowledge of any thing that paffes without its gates. It is true that the Chinese do carry on trade, fometimes at bengal, to the Phi- lippine iflands, to batavia, and even to goa; but that is not brought about but by ftealth, by the connivance of the Mandarin governors of the fea ports, obtained by means of a round fum of money, without the know- ledge of the court; befides, it is abfolutely forbid, to every fubjecr. of the empire, to go into foreign parts, upon what occafion foever, without a permiffion, or an order, from the Emperor or the government*. The bucharians come alfo to pekin, but without obferving any flared times f. They bring large round fable for merchants; and the other provin- with their Chinese countrymen. They are ces of India by mountains, are very difficult eafily known by their longhair, which is na- to pafs ; which in a manner hinders all com- tural to them ; inftead of which thecmNESB, merce between thofe two empires. fubjects to the tartars, are obliged, under * The greateft part of the Chinese, pain of death, to cut their hair fhort, like who are difperfed in feveral places of the the Kalmucks and mongalls, who have east indies, for the fake of commerce, all their heads (haven, except a tuft of hair are the pofterity of thofe who left china on the top of their head, which they preferve when the mongall tartars made them- of the natural length of their hair, felves mailers of that empire; and they have \ There are two bucharias, the Great no other than clandeftine communication and the Little. The great buchariaIs cornelians JOURNAL OF cornelians, of a very good colour, which they barter, with the Chinese, againft damasks, kitaika, tea, to- bacco, cHiNA-ware, and filver. They firing thefe on fmall filken lines, in the manner of beads; and they are worn by Mandarins of the firft orders, when they appear at court, or in the colleges, in their habits of ceremony; wearing one row of them about their necks, which hangs down on their bellies. They bring alfo musk, rough diamonds, and many other forts of preci- ous ftones; but, as I was informed, of no great value; becaufe it is rare to find, among the Chinese, any who will rifque the laying out a confiderable fum for a fine {tone. The Chinese polifh thefe ftones, after their fituated between pirsia and the coantry of the Grand Mogul, about the 40th degree of latitude; this is the country of the us- ee c k tartars, who are Mahometans, The little eucharia is fitimed to the eaft of the Great, and extends to the fron- tiers of china, on the fide of the defert xama, and kingdom of tibet, which is their confine to the fouth ; this laft is fub- jecl to the Kontayfha, grand Chan of the Kalmucks. The bucharians are a par- ticular nation, which have no connection nei- ther with the Mahometan nor Pagan tar- tars, nor with any other people of thofe parts. They do not knowthemfelves whence they draw their origin. Ncverthelefs, they make profeffion of the Mahometan religion. They occupy the towns of the two eu- charia s, and only employ themfelves a- bout their commerce. Thofe of the great bucharia carry on their trade in the do- minions of the Great Mogul, in fersia, and in Siberia, and are tributary to the Chan of the usbecks. Thofe of the little bucharia trade into china, into the king- doms of tibet and tangut, and with the Kalmucks and mongalls their neigh- bours ; thefe laft pay tribute to the Kontay- fha. The bucharians have many cuftoms and ceremonies, much like thofe of the jews, nor is their dialect, phyfiognomy, and fize much unlike them ; which may give occafi- on to many reflections. own Mr. D E L A N G E. 225 ownfafhion, in order to make them proper for orna- 1-721. meriting the heads of the fair fex. *^VV I had no opportunity of being acquainted with any of this nation, not being allowed liberty fufficient for that end ; and on their part, they dared not run the risk of coming to my houfe, for fear of the guard at my gate; fo that I cannot give an exact account con- cerning them. They alfo bring to p e kin. gold- duft*, which the Chinese buy commonly at the price of 5, 6, to 7 laen of filver per laen of gold- du ft, becaufe it is unrefined ; they allure me that it is very fine when purified, and is then equal to the gold of the Chan. Thefe tartars dwell in the provinces of chamill and turfan f , under the protection of the Emperor of * The gold which the bucharians gold, in the pits which the torrents have bring to china conies from the high made in their pafTage, and barter them, . mountains which feparate the dominions of with the bucharians, againft all forts of the Great Mogul from the grand tar- fmall things for which they may have occa- tary. All thefe mountains abound in rich fion in their way of life, mines, of all forts, but none of them are f The provinces of c ham ill and tur- wrought; neverthelefs they make very con- fan are lituated to the weft of the defeit fiderable gains annually, by the great quan- ofxAME, towards the 40th degree oflati- tities of gold-duft which the mighty tor- tude. They make a part of the little rents, formed by the rains in the fpring, bucharia, and have been fubject hitherto along with the fnovvs melting, bring down to the Kontayfha Grand Chan of the kal- with them into the neighbouring valleys. mucks; but a few years fince the chi- For the inhabitants of thefe mountains, to- nese, joined by the mongalls, have gcther with the Kalmucks, who encamp poffefied themfelves of it, after having drives with their cattle in the adjacent plains, out the Kalmucks. come afterwards to gather thefe grains of Vol. II. F f china. 226 JOURNAL OP 1721. <£Hina, in confederation of a moderate tribute, which ^V^Jthey pay him annually. In return they buy at pekin, Hides of Russia to make boots. Fox- skins, red and brown. Squirrel- skins, white and grey. Beaver skins. Sables, and other furs. Kicaika. Cotton, like the woolens of europe, of which they ufe part themfelves, and fell part to the Kal- mucks*, their neighbours ; they alfo take Tea. Tobacco, and of The fmalleft china- ware ; of all which in pretty large quantities. Befides the goods I have above fpecified, I know of no others which they bring to pekin. The moft valuable furniture of lackered ware, viz. cabinets, chairs, tables, baskets, and other things of * The Kalmucks occupy a great part they are, neverthelefs, defirous of living of the northern ajia; they are divided peaceably; contenting themfelves with the irto three principal branches, under one fo- fubfiuence which their cattle can afford rereign Chan, whom thcycall the Kontayfha; them, and do no harm to any, unlefs they they have no fixed habitation, but always live are hurt by them; but, when once irritated, in tents. Though the Kalmucks are in- they become irreconcilable enemies. Their ::>l!y the brv.ved of die tartar s, icligion is that of the Dehy-Laroa. that Mr. D'E L A N G E. 227 that fore, as alfo the richeft porcelain- ware, come from 1 7 2 1 . japan *. For, when the Emperor fends any perfon to v-/"W> japan, in a public character, moil of the princes and great men of the court feldom fail to engage him to bring them fome of thofe things at his return. Some times they find means to bring thefe things into china clandeftinely ; but that is very feldom. This is the reafon that the commodities of japan are not al- ways to be had at pekin, unlefs a man would pay an ex- orbitant price ; neverthelefs they are found there fome times reafonably enough ; becaufe feldom a year paflfes that the Emperor doth not amerce fome or other of the great lords in very confiderable fines, which obliges them to raife all the money they can on their move- ables and immoveables; and whoever hath money ly- ing by him doth, on thefe occafions, lay it out to great advantage, and buy the mod curious and valu- able things for little money f . * All merchandife of j A p a n is contra- f It feems to be a favourite maxim, band in china; which is the reafon they adopted in all the eaftern courts, to wink, cannot be brought into russia, with the at all the vile practices, and rapacious impo- caravans from china, at lead without very fitions, of the minifters ; and, when they great rifk. The fmali quantity of japan have well plucked arid drained the fubftance goods, which are clandeftinely brought into of the people, the prince then fqueezes thera china, being kept very private, and paid dry for his own ufe. for at very dear rates by the Chinese themfclves. F f 2 After 22? JOURNAL OF 172 1. After the lackered ware of japan, that of die ^/V^./ province of fokien is looked upon as the bed; but none of it comes to pekin, becaufe the great lords of china opprefs the merchants to a great degree, and take their goods from them, upon many frivolous pretences, without leaving them the leaft hopes of ever obtaining any payment. For this reafon, all mei> chants, and others of any lucrative trade, at pekin, have fallen into the cuftom of putting themfelves un<- der the protection of fome one or other of the Princea of the blood, or other great lords, or minifters of the court; and, by this means, with the afliftance of a round fum of money, paid annually to their protestors, they are able to get clear of the extortions of the Man- darins, and fome times of thofe of the common foldi- ers. For, without fuch a powerful protection, a merchant mud be an undone man at pekin, where every one thinks they have an undoubted right to form pretenfir ons upon a man that lives by trade. And, if any of them are fo imprudent as to attempt obtaining fatisr faction, by the way of juftice, they fall from bad to worfe; for the Mandarins of juftice, after having drain- ed from them all they can, fcldoni fail of ordering the goods, taken from them unjuftly, to be brought to the college;. Mr. D E L A N G E. 220 college ; but he muft be a cunning fellow indeed, who Iy « 2 Ti> fhall be able ever to get them from thence. ^/VV> They have, at pekin, a people dexterous enough an lackering, but their works fall far fhort of thofe of japan and fokien ; which may be attributed to the difference of climate; and it is for this reafon that the lackered work made at pekin is always much cheap- er than the other. Neverthelefs , the lackered work made at pekin. infinitely exceeds any work of that* kind made in Europe. The fhips which arrive every year at canton, from ENGLAND, FRANCE, HOLLAND, DENMARK, and Other parcs r generally bring the folio wing. forts of merchandife. Silver of different coins. All forts of fine cloth; Camblets. Woolen fluffs. Fine HOLLAND-linen. Standing clocks and watches, Looking- glaffes of all fizes. Mathematical inftruments. Etwys from en gland. Pencils. European paper of all forts. Diffe- 230 JOURNAL OF i Jit. Different forts of milliner-wares <*Sv*\J Some forts of European liquors, efpecially wine. A good part of thofe merchandifes are diftributed, in prefents, among the Mandarins of the government of that city; of the reft, the European merchants ge- nerally make a very confiderable profit. They employ the filver thefe bring in purchafing diverfe forts of goods, by virtue of an agreement made before hand; they carry away with them from thence, Raw filk. Damasks wrought according to draughts furnifh- ed to them. Wrought fdks. Lackered ware. Tea, green and bohea. Badians, a feed having a tafte much like anifeed. Canes, and Chin a- ware made according to models given them . They alfo fome times bring away gold, but very fel- dom, becaufe they generally get it cheaper in the in- dies. They alfo find at canton pretty valuable ftones, except diamonds, but not in any great quan- tities. They make the belt filk-brocades of china, that are brought Mr. DE LANGE. %n. brought to Europe, in the provinces of quoantung 172 i. and fokien. >^V\J The filver which they bring from Europe to can- ton is received at the fame rate as that brought from Korea to pekin-, and they have the advantage of buy- ing their goods, at canton, from 30 to 40 per cent^ cheaper than they could do at pekin. The laft year there arrived at canton a French com- mhTary, belonging to the new india company eftabliuV ed in p aris *, who obtained leave of the court to re- fide there for time to come; but, when he wanted to difpatch the (hip loaden with merchandife, he met with fo many obftacles at the cuftom-houfe, and from the government, doubtlefs, to draw more money from him, notwithstanding he had already made fufficient pre- fents, that at length, defpairing to fee an end of thefe impofitions, he gave orders to the captain of the fliip to weigh anchor, and depart, in fpite of thofe people ; which was done as he defired. But he was obliged, to avoid being very ill treated on this occafion, to take the Chinese habit, and to retire to a convent of Domini- cans, at the diftance of 2 ly from cantonj; where * The mi ssissipi company. f There arc many roman catholic convents in china, which, in the time of the late Emperor of china, had much the fame immunities as the converts in euhote en- he cj2 JOURNAL OF 172 1. he kept himfelf incognito, till fuch time as the t*/V"N^ French Jesuits, at pekin, had found means, by the force of prefencs, to obtain liberty for him to ap- pear openly, with two or three domefticks, and re- main there till the court fhould otherwife diredt; on the condition that he and his fervants fhould wear the Chinese habit. Neverthelefs I was afterwards inform- ed, that the Mandarins of the government of canton let no opportunity efcape them of chagreening him ; infomuch, that he found himfelf obliged to re-imbark, the firft opportunity that offered itfelf. They alfo had the laft year at canton, a frigate from ostend, bear- ing the Emperor of Germany's colours. For the reft, they carry to china from Europe, and bring back from china, a Very great variety of toys, and different forts of curioflties, upon which they make a very confiderable profit ; but thefe are fo numerous that it is not pofTible to furnifh a complete fpecification of them. In regard to our commerce with china, it is, at pre- fent, in a very languifhing condition ; and nothing in the world would bring more prejudice to our caravans, joyed ; no pcrfon durft enter but with the confent of the religious of the convent, unlcfs by exprefs order of the Emperor of china. than Mr. D E L A N G E. 233 than the commerce which is carried on at urga*; 172 u for from this place there is brought, monthly, and e-^V^sJ ven weekly, to pekin, not only the fame fores of goods which our caravans bring, but of a better quality than thofe brought by our caravans ; and in fo great quan- tities, that the merchandifes which the merchants of pekin, who go continually between pekin and urga, to trade with our people, and the goods which the lamas of the mongalls f bring from their parts, a- mount every year to four or rive times as much value as the caravans that come to pekin in the name of his Czarifh Majefty. And I have been informed, by thofe who have been employed by the great men of pekin to buy their provifion of furs at urga, that there they can buy finer, and more valuable black fox- skins, than they have ever feen in our caravan. I muft add befides, that thefe great quantities of our mer- * The camp of the Chan of the weftern ter RUSSiA-hides, and the coarfe woolen mongalls, who are tributaries of china, cloth of Siberia, againit cattle ; but, as un- is called urga. This Prince encamps on the der this pretext, they brought great quanti- right of the river selinga, about 500verfts ties of valuable furs, which they fold againfl fouth of selinginsky, towards the fron- the merchandifes of china; diis clandeftine tiers of china ; and though he doth not al- commerce much injured the trade of the ca- ways encamp in the fame place, yet he fel- ravans of Siberia. dom quits this country without indilpcnfuble f The priells of the weftern mongalls, necefiity. By virtue of the laft convention and the Kalmucks, are called lamas ; there of the frontiers, the Russians of sf.lin- are different orders. cinsky mi^ht freely come to urga to bar- Vol. II. G g chandifes 2J4 JOURNAL OF 172 1. chandifes, brought from urga to pekin, do confides ^^^^^^ably lower the prices; the merchants of pekin, and the lamas of the mongalls, who bring them to pekin, are always capable of affording them 4 or 5 per cent lower than the commiffary of che caravan can, of which the reader will be eafily convinced if he gives attenti- on to what I am about to lay before him. The russ merchants, and all other people, that come and go continually, between selinginsky and- urga, buy their goods where they find it moft conve- nient; inftead of which the commiflary is obliged ta> receive thofe he brings with the caravan, out of his Majefty's treafury, from fworn apprifers of the treafu- ry, who often fet fo high a price on them that they find it difficult to fell them for half the price valued at to them. Another advantage which thofe who go to trade to urga enjoy, is, that they make the jour- ney thither in 1 o or 12 days ; and, beginning their traf- fick immediately on their arrival, they are ready to re- turn in 2 or 3 days after; in place of which, the conv mifTary, after having been at considerable expence, can, with difficulty enough, get to pekin in three months;, and when he gets there, they keep him fhut up 6 or 7 weeks, according to the maxims praclifcd by the chi^ NESE Mr. D E L A K G fe. 23 J >?ese hitherto: in confequence whereof the abundance I72 1. of merchandife of Russia arrived at pekin obliges them <^*V\-> (till to fpend feveral months in getting quit of theirs. And as by the laft treaty they are obliged to maintain themfelves, and all thofc belonging to the caravan, at their own proper expence, all thefe circumftances can- not fail of occafioning a very material difference in the balance of their trade. For, before they began to trade at urga, a caravan, how large foever, was all fold off in three months, at the prices fet by the commiflary hint- felf. Moreover all the Chinese, who traded at that time with us, became rich ; inftead of which, all thofe who have traded with us fince that time, have traded to their own lofs, and may be deemed at prefent quite ruined. The expences of a journey to urga are very trifling; for they can buy at selinginsky as much provifion for 1 o roubles as will ferve ten perfons for a month; in place of which, 10 roubles will hardly ferve them a week at pekin. Befides, thofe who go into china to trade are obliged to buy forage for their hor- fes, &c. in place of which, thofe who go to urga to trade put their horfes to grafs, without coding them a farthing. The Chinese merchants, on their fide, who come to urga to trade, are likewife at much lefs G g 2 expence 23*5 JOURNAL OF 172 r. expence than the commhTary; becaufc they buy at pe> ^■/"V^kin, and the towns through which they pafs, tea, to- bacco, rice, and other grains, ordinary damasks, kitai- ka, and other like merchandife, at a very low price; which they barter, on the road with the m on galls, againft horfes, fheep, and in a word, all forts of cattle.; infomuch, that as the private merchants make both their journey, out and home alfo, with infinite lefs expence than the commhTary of a caravan, it cannot be other- wife, than that they can buy and fell their merchan- dife on much better terms than a commiilary can, who is obliged to remain, with a number of attendants, in a city where living is fo dear, as at pekin, a longer time than would ferve a merchant at selinginsky for making 4 or 5 journies to urga. In fine, when the caravan returns to Russia, they find, after fuch great expences, that the quantity, of Chinese goods, brought to russia by private traders, is fo very large that they muft fell theirs at a very moderate price. All thefe circumftanccs well confidered, it is eafy to comprehend that, upon clo-fing the accounts of the caravan, the profits cannot, at this time, be much more than the disburfements. But to return to our journal. AUGUST. Mr. D-E L A N G E. 237 AUGUST. august* The 1 4th, I received a letter from commhTary tstop- 1 7 2 1 . wikoff, dated from the river tola*, 29th of July; by which he defired me to prevail on the council for the affairs of the mongalls-j- , to fend him an affignmens for 2000 laen of filver upon the cuftom-houfe of kal- ghanna J; offering to return the fame (for which he had prefTmg oceafion, for the neceflities of the cara- van,) as foon as he fhould commence his trade at pe- kin ; and he added, that the fame favour had been for- merly granted to commiflary oskolkofe. The 1 5thj I went to the council, and having fpoken of this affair with the Askinnamma, or vice-prefident, he promifcd to confult the regiflers of the council up- on it, and to write directly about it to the prefidenc * Tola is a river in the 'country of the protection of this empire. This college, at mokgall s, which comes from the eaft, and the fame time, enters indirectly into the cog- enters the river orchon, about 250 verfts nizance of all the affairs which regard the fouth-eaft of selinginsky. By virtue of powers who border on china, from the the new regulation, the caravans of sj.be- north-eaft to the weft; whence it comes, ria, who go to pekin, ought to enter on that they are the court who have moil to do the territories belonging to china upon dieir of any in china. pafling this river. X Kalchanna is the firft Chinese city, f The council for the affairs of the mon- within the great wall, that you come to, in galls at pekiv, is a college who have the the road from selinginsky to pekin. It' care of every thing regarding the nation of is here tli.it the duties, inwards and out- the mongalls, as well thole who are the wards, are paid by the Russians; and alio hereditary fubjecls of the Emperor of cm- for great part of the country of the mos- ma, as, alfo, thofe who are only uader the gall?. ajS JOURNAL OF august. at jegcholl, and that he would communicate his an- 172 1. fwer to me. v *" / "^° The 1 7th, having fent my interpreter to the coun- cil to know if they had come to any refolution on this affair, he brought back the following anfwer, " That " they had indeed found, in the regifters, that the " council had formerly advanced money to the com- 41 muTary; but that the trade was an object of fo little " confequence with them, that they did not think it " merited the council's being incommoded with pro- 41 pofals of that fort." The 1 8 th, a Mandarin came to me from the coun- cil, and notified to me, that his Majefty, calling to re- membrance my being at pekin, had given orders to the council, that I fhould be efcorted to jegcholl by a Mandarin and fome of the military. Where- upon I anfwered him, that I would be ready the next day, with my interpreter and two domefticks, if they would take care to provide the relays, which I mould want, for the journey. The 19th, all being ready for the journey, I left pekin very early in the morning. The 2 ift, I arrived at jegcholl, and repaired forth- with to the court; and having found the chamberlain of Mr. D E L A N G E. 239 of the Chan, who is generally an eunuch*, I prayed august. him, according to the cuftom of the country, to in- 1721. form himfelf, on my behalf, of the health of the Bog- doi-Chan, and to inform his Majefty of my being there \ upon which his Majefty did me the favour of fending to me a falver covered with all forts of new fruits* which were followed by another, charged with diverfe forts of meat from his kitchen; he ordered me to be told, at the fame time, that he fent me thofe for my refrefhment, and that I would do well to keep my chamber the reft of the day, to recover my fatigue from the journey. The fame evening fome of the Fa- ther Jefuits being come to fee me, told me, that the Alegada had refolved to propofe to the Emperor to make the caravan encamp in the defert, near kalchan- ma, till the court fhould return to pekin; fuppofing that fo many of the court, and the greateft part of the people of diftinclion, being in the country, there would be nothing to do for the caravan at pekin; and, that they believed, that he would not fail of requiring from me, an order to the commhTary for that purpofe. Ir * All thofe who ferve in the chamber than other caftcrn people; but the mon- of the Fmperor cf china are eunuchs, and galls, and generally all the tartars, arc either Chinese or mon galls ; the cm- are r.ot very liable to this malady.* w-e se nation being not lefs jealous of rhe lex - was 240 JOURNAL OF august. was ea fy t0 f ee > tnat W ^ at determined the minifter to 172 1. take this refolution, was nothing elfe but his appre- ^'^'^^henfions that the prefents he expelled to have from the commiflary, if he fhould be at pekin at the time of his arrival, might, if he was abfent, fall into other hands. But, as this was a defign that might be attend- ed with very bad confequences, and might have been the caufe of the lofs of men, as well as the horfes be- longing to the caravan, by being expofed to the extre- mity of cold and famine in the deferts, I became oblig- ed to ufe all my efforts to render this intention of the minifter abortive. The 2 2d, being to go in the morning to court, the Emperor fent the mafter of ceremonies to require of me pafsports for fome Mandarins, which were to pafs the frontiers of russia; but, as I could well penetrate the grounds of their errand, I thought it my duty to rcfufe the pafsports demanded. Neverthelefs, notwith- flanding all my excufes, which I could mufter up, to exempt me from giving them, the mafter of the cere- monies came to declare to me, in the cleared terms, the next day, which was The 23d, " That the Emperor was, at one time, re-? ,; fblved to fend thofe people away, whether I would give Mr. D E L A N G E. 241 u give them pafsports or not; but that I ought to con- AUGUST<( u fider, that, in fuch cafe, I might expect an abfolute 1721. " denial to every thing which I might have to propofe." ^^^ Which convinced me, that it was abfolutely neceffary for me, on this occafion, to conform to his Majefty's pleafure, if I would retain the lead hopes of fucceeding in my defire of oppofing the defigns of the minifter. For this reafon, On the 24th, when the mafter of the ceremonies came again to fpeak with me on this affair, I put into his hands a letter, addreffed to the officers comman- dants on our frontiers, in the form he defired to have it; to which I joined the condition, that our caravan fhould not be hindered from coming to pekin directly; and that our commiffary fhould, on his arrival at pe- kin, immediately be at liberty to begin his commerce, without being (hut up, for a certain time, as had at fome times been praclifed. The mafter of the ceremo- nies promifed to fpeak to his Majefty about it; who had not only the goodnefs to give his confent imme- diately, but he, at the fame time, gave flrict orders to the prefident of the council, that he fhould take fpeci- al care that no perfon whatfoever fhould go about in Vol. II. H h any 242 JOURNALOF august. an Y nianncr to interrupt the commiffary in his bufi- 172 1. nefs. Vk/ " v>w> ' The 25th, a Portuguese Father Jesuit, called Fa- ther maurano, came to me, and told me, " That there " was a perfon of quality, who, by him, made me an " offer of 10,000 laen of filver, till the arrival of the " caravan, which I might employ in what manner I " thought proper; and that this lord was very much " fcandalized at the difobliging anfwer I had received " from the council of the direction of the affairs of the " mon galls, in regard to the 2000 laen of filver which '• I had required of them for the neceffities of the cara- " van." Upon which, preffing him to let me know who this lord might be, he told me," That he was indeed for- " bid to let me know who this perfon was; but that he " would neverthclefs, in confidence, own to me that it " was the 9th Prince, fon of the Chan, who made me " this offer *." Thereupon I did not omit teitifying, to him, how much I was touched with the generofity of a Prince to whom I had never the honour of paying my devoirs; adding, " I mould never forget the good- * The late Emperor of china had i 7 were all very well proportioned, having fine princes born of his feveral wives and con- complexions, and black eyes, well formed, cubines. There were three prcfent at the without the leaft appearance of the deformi- fii ft audience of Mr. dc ismayloff, who ties of die mongall nation. " will Mr. D E L A N G E. 243 " will which his highnefs was pleafed to fhow me on AUGUST- " this occafion; and that I mould, all the days of my 1721. " life, retain the fame fentiments as if I had received ^-^^^ " his generous offers." But the Father jesuit having remonftrated, * That the Prince might pofTibly think " himfelf offended if I mould refufe his offer •altoge- " ther;" I was obliged to accept of 1000 laen of fil- ver *. The 26th, I paid a vifit to the Father jesuits of the French nation -j-; where I found the prefident of the council, who let me know, by the mouth of thefe Fathers, " That he was come from receiving the Em- Ci peror's orders, which were fo favourable to our com- " merce, that there is no inftance of the like liberty * There is an appearance as if this was audience of Mr.de ismayloff, the Em- it fnare laid for Mr.de -lance, to render peror, being feated on the throne, had, on him fufpecled by the Emperor of c h i n a, his left, as the place of honour, at three pa- who, in the defign which he had then form- ces diftance, a little advanced into the hall, ed of leaving the fucceflion to his third fon, three of the Princes his fons ; and, on his could not fail of taking umbrage at the leafl right, a little more advanced, the Jesuits falfe (tep which the agent of Russia might belonging to the court ; at five paces behind happen to take on this occafion, which them, a little more advanced, were placed might induce this monarch to confent to his feven m o n g a l l Princes of the imperial being fent away ; which was probably the houfe ; and then, on the two fides of the whole aim of this intrigue. hall, the minitters and grand Mandarins of f The jesuits had great afcendency the court; all fitting crofs legged, accord- on the late Emperor of c h i n a ; and, as ing to the manner of the tartars. By fo the prefent Emperor hath been under their remarkable a diftinction it may, in fome de- hands, it ought not to be doubted but he is gree , be comprehended how much thefe likewife well afrtctcd to them, whatever good fathers were in favour with the Em- may be reported to the contrary. At the firft p;ror. H h 2 " hav- 244 JOURNALOF august." having ever been granted before in china." Ianfwercd 172 i. him, through the help of thefe Fathers, " That I had ^^^u no reafon to doubt of the punctual execution of his " Majefty's orders, fince he had the goodnefs to charge " the governor-general of pekin with them; of whofe " indefatigable zeal for maintaining a good under ftand- 11 ing between the Bogdoi Chan and the Czar, my ma* " fter, was fufficiently known to me." Whereupon he caufed me to be told, " That he was not a man ca- " pable of receiving prefents from foreigners, for do- " ing them a iervice, as many others did in fuch cafes - T " and that a Ilep of that kind would entirely prevent " him from ever having the liberty of fpeaking to his *' Majefty again in favour of any perfon whatfoever, " mould it come to his Majefty's ear; but that never- " thelefs, he believed he might referve to himfelf the " privilege, when he mould come to our houfe to buy " any thing, of being treated more favourably than o- " thers in the price." Upon which I allured him, {% That " wc fhould always know to treat him with proper di- 11 llinction, in fuch a cafe." The fame day, I defired the mailer of the ceremo- nies to make my moft humble acknowledgements to his Majefty, for the gracious reception which he had been Mr. DE LANGE. 245 been pleafed to honour me with, during my flay at jeg- august chol l ; and to pray his permifTion for my returning to 1 72 1 . pekin ; becaufe I apprehended the caravan would foon' v> ^^^ -/ arrive there. He came, fome hours after, and inform- ed me that his Majefty intended, the laft day of this month, to go upon a party of hunting, in the defert, fome leagues from jegcholl; and that I might lay hold of that opportunity of taking leave of his Maje- fty, and of returning to pekin; he added, that his Ma- jefty had likeways ordered the governor of pekin to go thither, and deliver to me the tapeftries he had caufed to be made for the Czar. During the reft of my ftay at jegcholl, my table was furnifhed daily, the fame as the firft day of my ar- rival, from his Majefty's kitchen. And they fhowed me all the buildings and gardens of this charming place, which is certainly worthy to be the delight of fo grand a monarch; and is infinitely fuperior, in beauty and magnificence, to the palace at pekin or czchan- zchumnienne. The 3 1 ft, I had the honour of attending his Majefty when he parted from jegcholl ; and, on this occafi- on, he had the goodnefs to ask me, " If I enjoyed my " health." After having anfwered with all the refpecl due 2^6 JOURNAL OF august, due to fo gracious an inquiry, he faid to me further, 1721. * That he thought he obferved fome alteration in my ^^v^ 1 « countenance, and that I ought to take care of my " health." After which he gave me permiffion to re- turn to pekin, after having, by the mafter of the cere- monies, let me know, that, if the caravan had not been fo nigh, I fhould have had the honour of accompanying him to the party of hunting *. SEPTEMBER. The 3d, I was returned from my jegcholl jour- ney, being three days on the road. The 7th, I fent my interpreter to kalchanna, to the commhTary, with 1500 laen of filver. The 1 cth, I acquainted my Mandarin, that, as the caravan was at hand, it was moll: neceffary that the houfe fhould be repaired, that I might not continue under apprehenfions of the merchandife being dama- ged, for want of furhcient cover, during the rainy au- tumnal feafon. But he continually refufed me the li- * Hunting Is the favourite employment the army, confiding of 50 or 60,000 men of the tartar Pagans. And one may ga- completely armed, and generally travelling thcr the inclination of the tartars from 100 leagues in this manner, this monarch the pleafure and afliduity with which the thereby inured his courtiers and his troop* late Emperor of china followed the chace ; to the ufe of arms, and to fatigues; and neverthelefs he mixed much of the politician prevented their falling into the foft and in- with his favourite pafiion ; for going eve- dolcnt manner of living peculiar to the chi- ^y year a-hunting, efcorted by a body of nise, berty Mr. DE LANGE. 247 berty of getting it repaired of myfelf, under the pro- SEPT# mife that he would take care to get it repaired before 1721. the arrival of the caravan. But, feeing one day pafs af-^ ter another, and nothing done, I went, on the 1 5th, to the prefident, to pray him to give orders for repairing the houfe; at the leaft, not oppofe my doing it at my own expence. But his anfwer was, he would inftantly hire the workmen, and it fhould be repaired in one day. And thefe promifes were daily repeated, as well by my Mandarin as by the prefident, till, at length, the commhTary arrived with the caravan at pekin, on the 29th. As it rained very hard during that whole day, the commiflary found, at his arrival, that there was no place where he, or any of his people, could be covered from the rain; and he was obliged to let all the baggage of the caravan remain in the court- yard, without being able to fecure one (ingle parcel. As foon as the caravan was entered into my court-yard they re-inforced the guard at the gate, and ported cen- tinels all round the houfe, to fecure us, as they faid, againft thieves ; but, in reality, to prevent our commif- fary's having any opportunities of trading with any per* fon whatfoever, till fuch time as they fhould receive the merchandifes, which they might pretend to have occa- fion 248 JOURNAL OF sept. £° n f° r > f° r ms Majefly and the court. Befides which, 172 1. they ordered two Mandarins, with a clerk, to remain ^^^^^in our houfe, to take good care that no merchandife was fold on credit, and to note down exactly the names of all that fhould come into, or go out of, our houfe ; what goods, and how much, they bought, and at what price, OCTOBER. In the beginning of this month I fent again to the council, on the fubject of the repair of our houfe. Upon which they let me know, the 6th, by a clerk, that the prefident had fent a courier to his Majefly, to be informed if his Majefly would be pleafed to have our houfe repaired by the treafury, or if it was our bu- finefs to repair it; the Emperor, by virtue of the lafi: convention between the two empires, not being obli- ged to furnifh any thing to our people. Whereupon I patiently waited till the 1 2 th. The workmen came, at length, to make the reparation fo often promifcd ; but it was done fo ne- gligently, that, when they made an end, there was lit- tle alteration for the better. The commiflfary employ- ed the reft of this month to unpack the goods, that he might put every thing in order againfl the time he fhould Mr, DE LANGE, 249 fhould be permitted to begin to trade. In the mean octob. while, we were vifited very afTiduoufly by four Manda- 1 72 1 . rins, who pretended to be deputed, from the court, to receive the merchandifes appropriated for his Majefty; demanding, from the commhTary, an exadt fpecificati- on of all the goods brought by the caravan, that they might chufe what was neceffary for the fervice of the court. They were anfwered, " That they need not " expect that the commhTary would give them a fpeci- " flcation of all he had in the caravan; but that, if " they had any orders of the court for us, they ought " to produce letters of credit addrefTed to me or the " commhTary ; or, at leaft, to let us fee a fpecification of " the goods wanted, figned by the matter of the ward- " robe of the Emperor, whereupon they mould know " if fuch goods were in the caravan or not. But thefe gentlemen would not quit their demand fo, alledging, " That they muft go according to the cuftoms obferv- " ed in times pad, when the commihary of every ca- 11 ravan had been obliged to give fuch a fpecification " to thofe deputed by the court to receive the goods " from him; that they did not intend to be ferved at -' this time as they had been with former commhTaries, " when the court got goods of but indifferent quality, Vol. II. I i after 350 JOURNAL O! octob. " a fc er the bcft goods had been difpofed to private per- 1721. " fons; that to this end, they fhould be careful to exa- v - / ^ > ^«< mine all that the commiflary had brought, and that " they would take what they wanted, for the court, " out of the beft they could find, particularly fables " at 3 laen per pair, as ufual." The commiflary, fee* kig thefe people pretend to infill on his giving them* goods at fuch an under- price, craved from me the pro- tection of the Czar, our common maft-e*, alledging,. that he had fables which coft him 20 or 30 roubles the pair; and that it was eafy to comprehend what market he fhould make with the reft of his goods, if he fhould be obliged to fell the fables at fuch a lofing price. Upon which I made the deputies underftand,. " That the merchandifes of the caravan did not be- " long to the commiflary, nor to me; and, in cafe they " did, it was not to be fuppofed that we fhould credit " them at all, at leaft without their bringing a fpecifi- " cacion in form, figned by the perfon who hath the 44 fuperintendance of thefe affairs at court. But that " did not fignify, they had only to bring their money, " and, when the commiflary had fhown them the goods, ' he would fee if he could agree with them." Thefe gentlemen feemed to take offence at this anfwer. Ne- verthelefs, Ma. D E L A N O E. 2*51 verthelefs, they engaged, at laft, to bring fuch a fpeci- octob. fication; but they deferred it from one day to another. 17 1U In the mean time, they made ufe of all their cunning v * -rv ^ J to prevail on us to deliver them, at an under-price, all the goods they thought fit to take. NOVEMBER. The 1 ft of this month, having fent my interpreter to the council, to defire them to admit the commiffary to the liberty of trading, they let me know, in anfwer, 41 That it was impoflible to do it, before the depu- " ties of the court had received the goods they had to " receive for his Majefty." The 4th, I fpoke of this affair, not only with my Mandarin, but alfo with the Kientu, or Mandarins ap- pointed to our houfe, to the end that they fhould dif- pofe thofe people to give us their fpecification, in order to end this affair. The fame day I went to meet his Majefty, who was returning from the hunting; and met him on the 5th, at 80 ly from pekin, at the hot- baths of tangzchaNg. His Majefty told me, " That " he had received news from Europe, that his Czarifh " Majefty had made peace with Sweden, by the me- " diation of the roman Emperor." After which, he asked me, " How long the caravan had been arrived ?" I i 2 Upon e5* JOURNAL OF novem. Upon which I anfwered, " That they were, indeed, 1 72 1. " lince the 29th of September at pekin; but the com- " mifTary had not yet got permifllon to trade." Upon which his Majefty, difmiffing me, went to the bath. I muft, on this oecafion, acquaint the reader with the cuftom of this empire, in fuch circumftances as this of the deputies above-mentioned. All the Man- darins that are charged with any commifiion of the court, be it to fubjedts or foreigners, are named and difpatched by the miniftry. When fuch commifTion is finiihed, thefe people are obliged to make prefents, not only to the minifters, but alfo to the Princes of the blood, to the end that they may not give them too much trouble, and that they may keep fomething to themfelves. They have no caufe to fear that the peo- ple, with whom they have to do on thefe millions, will find accefs to the minifters, or that ever a ferious in- quiry will be made into their conduct-, which is fo true, that no perfon will readily undertake to make com- plaints of their tricks, becaufe there is no reparation to be. expected. No perfon can carry his complaints di- rectly to the Emperor, but they mud abfolutely be made by the minifters, or thofe who hold the firft of- fice of the palace, or the chamber of his Majefty; and thefe Mr. D E L A N G E. 253 thefe gentlemen are fo clofely linked to the Interefts novem* of the other great lords of the empire, that, whatever 1 72 1. party the fufferer may addrefs himfelf to, he will cer- ^^^ tainly remain the dupe of the affair. The fame day, the deputies endeavoured again to get fome goods from us, while the fpecification might be made out; but their defign did not take effect. The 9th, I fpoke again to the Mandarins of the council, concerning our caravan; but I could get no other anfwer, but that this affair regarded the deputies of the court only. The 1 4th, when I would have gone out myfelf to the council, the guard, at our gate, flopped me, under pretext that the four Mandarins, deputies from the court, had ordered, that no perfon mould be fuffered to go out till the goods, which they ought to have for the court, were firft delivered. Though I pafTed in fpite of the guard, I was neverthelefs obliged to return without doing any thing, as the prefident was not in the city. The 1 5th, I fent my interpreter to the council to receive the refolution of the prefident, upon what I had reprefented the day before; and as he found him not there, but was told he was at home, he went thi- ther 254 JOURNAL OF NovEM.thtt t0 fp ea ^ with him, and brought me the anfwcr 172 1. following, " That the prefident would take care that * w/ " v ^ J « this affair (hould be ended out of hand; that to this " end it was neverthelefs neceffary, that the commifla- «« ry fhould put a reafonable price upon his goods." He defired further my interpreter to tell me, that, at this feafon, he was rarely at home; becaufe he was o- bliged to be all day long at czchan-zchumnienne at- tending his Majefty; that when I fhould have any affair to propofe to him, I fhould communicate the fame, by my interpreter, to the Mandarins of the council, who would not fail making him the neceflary report im- mediately. The 1 6th, the deputy Mandarins having made up, according to their own fancy, a fpecification of mer- chandifes to be received by them for the provifion of his Majefty and the court, they came to prefent it to us, in order, by means of this impofkion, to get a large parcel of goods from us. But the 1 7th, this fpecification being tranflated into the russ language, we found that the quantity of mer- chandife which they demanded, was much too large to be agreed to. For which reafon, it was asked of them, " From whom this fpecification was fent to us? and " who Mr. DE LANGE. 255 «« who had made it out?" Upon which, after many turns, noveMc and tergiverfations employed to no purpofe, they were 1721, at length forced to acknowledge that it was of their^ own forming; it being their opinion, that fuch a quan- tity would be wanting for the ufe of the court. But r in making this avowal, they did not fail to make the commiflary apprehend, " That he need not flatter him- H felf with a liberty of trading, with any perfon, before «.' they ftiould receive all that was contained in the fpe- " cification." The 1 8th, the Alegada being come to our houfc to- buy fome goods, I befought him to remember the pro- mifes which his Majefty had been fo good to make to Mr. de ism AYt off on the fubjeel: of freedom of com* merce, feeing, that by the courfe which affairs took at prefent, it looked as if they were entirely forgot. But he gave me for an anfwer to all, " That it was an af- " fair that did not in the leaft regard himj and that I> <; had none but the council to addrefs myfelf to*." * In chkna all is done by the difpofiti- pofleflion of the throne of china, they are on of different colleges, to whofe cognizance not much regarded; witnefs the exercife of the affair* may belong ; it not being permit- all forts of foreign religions publickly autho- ted to addrefs the court directly, upon any rifed, and the allowance of a Russian agent" affair whatever. In the time of the Uft cm- at pe k i n, agreed to by the fole good pleafure nese Emperor, thefe colleges were fo abfo- of the Emperor, in oppofition to the remon- lute, that, on many occafions, the Emperor (trances of his ministers, and to the conftitu- himftlf dared not meddle with their decrees ; tioo of the government cf china. kut, (ince the tartar. Princes have been in The 256 JOURNAL OF novem. The 2 2d, I fent my interpreter to the council with 172 1. a memorial on the fubjecl: of this affair; but the Man- Vk/ ^^ 'darins he found there refufed to receive it, under the pretext, that they muft have before-hand the orders of the prefldent thereupon, and know, from him, whether they mould receive it or not. The fame day the four deputies, being come to fee us, gave us to underftand, " That the ufual time of " keeping the commiffary at home being nigh finifti- 11 ed, they were come to commence a trade with him, " and to know how much he demanded for each fort " of merchandife, to the end, that, after they had fi- " nifhed their bargain with him, they might then de- " clare our houfe free for everybody to enter." Where- upon I demanded of them, " Who could have au- " thorifed them to fhut up, in the manner ufual with " flaves, for any time, the fubjects of fo potent a mo- " narch as was the Czar my matter?" But thefe gentle- men, not finding it proper to anfwer fo ticklifh a que- ftion, contented themfelves with faying, " That it " would be well for the commiffary to refolve to give " them the merchandife they required, and that at a " rcafonable price, unlefs he would, out of wantonnefs, " involve himfelf in expences which would much ex- ceed Mr. D E L A N G E. 257 " ceed the profit he thought to make by his obftinacy; NO vem. " and that, in the fituation he was, being obliged to 1721. " feed his people at his own expence, he acted directly u contrary to his own interefts, not to clofe affairs with " them." Thereupon I defired to know, " If they had " orders to prefs us, in fo violent a manner, to deliver " them the merchandifes." Upon which they anfwer- ed, " No ; and that they were come to deal with the " commiffary; but that he muft let them have the bed " goods at fuch prices as the court always paid." The commifTary, to make his laft effort, offered them mer- chandifes, of the fame quality as thofe which the court had received at other times, without advancing the price; but that did not clofe the affair. They went away, faying they would confult together, to fee if it was feafible for them to augment the price of the goods above that which the court had always given. Soon after they came from the council to enquire for my interpreter, to communicate to him the anfwerof the prefident concerning my memorial. Upon which I fenc him directly with the faid memorial; no way doubting, but, after what the prefident had himfelf told him, it would be received at once. But, on his return, he ac- quainted me, that the prefident had ordered a Manda- Yol. II. Kk rin 25S JOURNAL OF novem. ^ t0 ^ et me l ylow ^e anfwer ; which I wrote, word for 1 72 1 . word, from the mouth of my interpreter. " I applied to ^^^^ « the Allegamba on the fubject of the memorial of the " agent, and he not only forbid us to receive the faid " memorial, but alfo charged me to tell the agent that " which he had formerly told Mr. de is m ay l off, viz. " That commerce is looked upon by us with contempt, " and as a very trifling object; that the agent himfelf " was not ignorant, that we had long refufed to admit " the prefent caravan, and moft certainly mould never " have confented to its admittance into china, if his " Majefty had not furTered himfelf to be perfuaded to " it, at the reiterated inftances of Mr. de ismayloff." " That the Allegamba had, at the fame time, added " thefe words, " Thefe merchants come here to enrich " themfelves, not our people, which is eafy to be feen, " becaufe they pretend themfelves to fix the price of " their own goods, that they may fell them the dearer. " For thefe reafons, go tell the agent, that we fhall " not only refufe to receive the faid memorial, but that, " in future, he need not give himfelf the trouble of " propofing any thing to us that may be relative to " commerce, becaufe we will not embarrafs ourfelves " hereafter with the merchants of r u s s i a." Where- upon Mr. D E LARGE. iff upon our confinement continued much the fame as be- NO vem. fore; infomuch, that it was only permitted to the do- 1 7 2 1 . mefticks of the firft minifler, of the prefident, and a ^-^^^ clerk of the wardrobe, to enter our houfe; which they did very frequently, and in all appearance, to fpy what paffed in our quarters ; in hopes that we mould be obli- ged, at length, to fubmit our trade to their difcre- tion. The 25 th, I under flood that the brigadier, who, till that time, had the charge of the guard at our houfe, was reftored to the good graces of the Emperor; and that his Majefty had made him grand marfhal of the court, with the command in chief of the army which this monarch keeps in the country of the mongalls*. Whereupon I repaired immediately to his houfe, to pay my compliments ; and having found an opportunity, at the fame time, of acquainting him with what had paf- * The mongalls are tartar Pagans, they are brought up in extreme grofs ido- who dwell to the north of china. They latry, and have in a manner no religion; are divided into two branches, of which the they, for the greatefl part, dwell in towns firfl is that of the Eaftern, or of the North- and villages, and apply themfelves to agri- em mongalls, or the nieuchu, who in- culture. The fecond branch is that of the habit towards the coafts of the fea of ja- Weftern mongalls, otherwife called pan, between the river amoor and the calchies; thefe lad are only under the Grand Wall ; thefe are the natural fubjecls protection of china, without being entire- of the t A R t A R-houfe which at prcfent ly fubjecls, having their own proper Chan ; fills the throne of china ; and are the very they live in tents, and fubfift by their cattle, people, who, in the lad century, made without cultivating their lands. Their re- themfelves mailers of the empire of china ; ligion is the worfhip of the Delay-Lama. Kk 2 fed 260 JOURNAL OF tfOVEM. ^ regarding the four Mandarins deputed from the 1 72 i. court; he gave me his word that he would go to court that day, to inform himfelf circumftantially of that affair; and that, afterwards, he would order them to receive what might be abfolucely necefTary for his Ma- jefty and the court without further delay. He, at the fame time, feemed to be extremely furprifed at the con- . duel: of his brother the Allegamba on this occafion. The 27th, the firft minifter, being come to our houfe, told me, " That he underftood the interdict on " our houfe was not taken off, and defired me to ac- " quaint him with the caufe of it." Upon which I made anfwer, " That I had, for a long time, endea- " voured to find it out ; but I could find no perfon who <; would feem to know it. Neverthelefs it muft, in " time, be cleared up; feeing it was a notorious inju- " flice, to keep a caravan fhut up fo long, that came " upon the faith of treaties folemnly ratified." He re- plied thereupon, " That the court, for a long time, " refolved to admit no caravans, becaufe all the mer- " chants, who had traded with the russes, were reduced " to the lowed ebb, by the very great quantity of puss " goods which were at prefent in china; that it was on " the very ftrong inftances which Mr. de ismayloff " had Mr. DELANGE. 261 "had made, as well to the court as to the council; of- novem. * fering, for this purpofe, that the commifTary and his 172 1. " people fhould fubfift, for the future, at their own 1 ^^^ " expence ; that, in the end, they had admitted the " prefent caravan ; that the commifTary, fo far from " having any regard to thefe circumftances , refufed t( now to take the ufual prices, that had been offered " him, for the merchandife which the court had occa- " Hon for, and indited on a very high price for them ; " That he wifhed I would bring the commiflary to rea- " fon in this affair, and let him know the refult." Upon which I told him, " That I had nothing to do with " putting a new price on goods which the commiflary " had in commiffion ; that it did not depend on me, " as it was the commifTary who was to account for the " -goods with which he was entrufled, who would not " permit any other, befides himfelf who fold them, to " fet a price ; that, as to what regarded the admiffion " of the caravan, it was ftipulated long before Mr. de " ismayloff's arrival at pekin, and there could not " the leaft alteration be made in it, without fhaking " the foundations of the treaties concluded between u the two empires; and fuppofing any alteration was u to be made, it could not be done but by mutual ecu- 262 JOURNAL OF novem. " ccmfent, and after deputies, appointed for this pur- 172 1. " pofe, by the two empires, fhould have examined this ^^"^ " affair to the bottom, and made a new plan of con- 11 vention." This anfwer feemed to nettle the minifter, who broke up the converfation, and ordered the com- miflary to fhow him fome goods. DECEMBER. The four Mandarins, deputed from the court, find- ing, at length, that we rather chofe to have our con- finement continue, than to fubmit to their unreason- able pre ten (ions ; and that, on the other hand, the grand marfhal of the court interefted himfelf ftrongly in our favour, and would absolutely have an end of this affair, the interdict on our houfe was at laft taken off And, The 2d of this month, the council made publicati- on, that it was permitted to all perfons to come and trade with us; but they ufed one piece of chicanery, which hurt us much, and really kept off all the mer- chants; for when they perceived the merchants began to refort to our houfe, they made known to them, " That no pcrfon fhould carry out the leaft thing, of " what they bought at our houfe, without mowing it ■■ firft to the four Mandarins-deputies, to the end that " they M r. D E L A N G E. 263 " they might take what they found proper for the ufe DECEMB< " of the court." This notification took away from the 1 72 1 . merchants all defire of trading with us; feeing they were allured of being great fufferers if they were obli- ged to pafs through the hands of thefe greedy Manda- rins; which made me acquainted, more than any thing elfe, with the mifery of the profefllon of a merchant in china; who are obliged to depend on the difcretion of Mandarins and foldiers, who have none. But the Poyamba or grand marfhal of the court, having been informed of it, had the goodnefs to remedy this new grievance; ordering the Mandarins not to take any thing, for the ufe of the court, from any other perfon than from the commiffary. For this purpofe he fent, at the fame time, his fteward with them, to the commif- fary, to tell him, " That he came with them, by order " of his matter, to fee how much, and what forts of " merchandifes thefe gentlemen would take, to the end " that they might make him an exact report." Where- upon they were fhown the goods ; but they acted fo much upon the referve, in prefence of this man, that they took in all but a very middling parcel of goods. Neverthelefs, this did not prevent their repairing every day to our houfe, to take from the Chinese merchants what 264 JOURNAL OF DECEMB> what goods they thought proper. And the more to 172 1. counteract our trade, the miniftry had reprefented to the Emperor, that there had been brought, during ma- ny years, from year to year, into his Majefty's maga- zines of fur, a much greater quantity of fables than were neceiTary for the confumption of the court ; and that, as this quantity augmented annually, it was bet. ter that his Majefty fhould order fome of them to be fold, than to let them lye and fpoil. The 1 2th, 13th, and 14th, many Chinese mer- chants, and other perfons from the great houfes, and ordinary people of pekin, having come to our houfe, ventured to buy fome fquirrel- skins, and other goods of fmall value, in order to difcover the true defigns of the Mandarins who kept themfelves at our houfe ; they did not oppofe them until they had fixed their bargains ; but, when the bargains were concluded, they figniiied to them, that they were not to carry out any of the things they had bought, till they fhould chufe the bed of what they had for the court. The 15th, as they were apprifed at the court and council, that we had begun to trade, they publifhed that they would fell, at reafonable prices, 20,000 fables out of the fur-magazines of the Emperor 5 where- upon Mr. DE L A N G E. 265 upon all thofe who had begun to trade with us went to DECEMB# fupply themfelves there ; fome for fear of the chicanery 1721. of the Mandarins, others in hopes of buying cheaper there than with us. In fhort, they fold, by what I could afterwards learn, the beft fables at 2 1 laen, middling at iy laen to 1, and the lead at 90 fun; but thefe were not Siberia fables, but thofe of the tonguses*, under the dominions of china, taken about the border of the river amoorj; of which they furnifh annually a quantity to the magazines of his Majefty. The coun- try whence thefe fables are brought is called solloni. The 16th, I was informed, that, notwithstanding the court had confented to a free commerce, between the two nations, free of all duties, the Mandarins be- longing to our houfe, had given the ftricleil: orders to our guard, not to let any the leaft thing, of any kind, be brought into our houfe without producing a billet * The tonguses are a Pagan people f The river amoor is one of the lanreft of the north of a si a, who are very pro- rivers in a s i a ; it takes its rife in the bably the dependents of tartars; they country of the mongalls, near the river occupy a great proportion of the eaftern selinGA, and running from thence ealt- parts of Siberia; and fome branches of ward, it makes the frontier of thefe parts, this people extend themfelves even to the between Eaftern Siberia and the Oriental fbuthern banks of the river amoor; the mongalls; and, after a courfe of more lad party of the tonguses is fabject to than 300 German leagues, it difchar«es china ; all the other tonguses are fub- itfelf into the fea of japan, in lat. 44 de- jects of Russia. Vide Hifloire Cemalcg. grccs north. d;s tartare s. Vol. II. L 1 from 266 JOURNAL or DECEMB.fr° m them; and fuch a billet coft them 30 zfchoffes* 1721. which make about 4 fun. But thofe who would have free ingrefs and egrefs, to our houfe to trade, were o^ bliged, once for all, to make a fixed agreement with them, either for a certain limited time, or for the whole time we might ftay at pekin; upon which they receiv- ed a billet, which intitled them to come into, and go out of our houfe as often as they pleafed. All thofe who refufed to pay in this manner, for the freedom of entry into our houfe, were fent back, as people who^ came to our houfe to borrow, or perhaps to fteal on occafion. The 1 7th, my Mandarin being come to fee me, I told him, " That I was very glad to learn, that the " court had alfo begun to enter in-ta- trade; which they. " had before looked upon as fo contemptible a thing 11 with them, that they always reproached us with the " little importance of it; that, llnce his Majefty had " given fuch authentick marks of the efteem he had " for commerce, I hoped, that in time to come, they " would fpeak of it with more circumfpection." Where- upon he replied, " That it was not with a view of inte- " reft that the Emperor had ordered the fables to be 11 fold, that I fpoke of; but that the fale was made " purely, Mr. D E L A N G E. 267 " purely, becaufe, having fo great a quantity of them DECEMB . " in his magazines, he thought it better to order them 1 72 1 . 44 to be fold, than that they mould ly there till rotten." I thereupon told him, " That if, at the court of his <; Czarifh Majefty, and in his empire, they could make « ufe of all the furs which the country furnifhed, they 44 would probably fee very few of them in china." Af- ter which, I demanded of him, " If it was with the 44 knowledge of the Emperor that the Mandarins, pla- 44 ced at our gate, fold, to the people who had bufinefs 44 with us, permits of paffage, in and out; and abfolute- 41 ly denyed entrance, to our houfe, to thofe who would ~ ii not pay for thofe permits?" I would like wife be in- formed by him, " What was the meaning that the 4 li Mandarins, deputies of the court, were continually 4t in our houfe?" His anfwer to which was, " That the * Emperor knew nothing of it, w 'a fit of illnefs, which he had laboured under. On this occafion, I had the honour of fitting over-againft his Majefty, at fome diftance from the throne; and this place is a little below the feat of the Princes of the blood, but above that of the Mandarins of the firft clafs. The feaft being finifhed, and his Majefty retired, the mafter of ceremonies came to tell me, that I might be dif- penfed with coming the next day, being new year's- day, to court, to pay my compliments to his Majefty; feeing it was the cuftom of the Princes of the blood, and Mandarins of the empire, to be all ranged in the court of the caftle that day, every one according to his rank; where, as I was a foreigner, I could have no rank. The 14th, the firft minifter gave me, and the com- mifTary a dinner; on which occafion there pafled no- thing remarkable, unlefs that he asked me, " If I was " not to return with the caravan?" Which made me think they had already fettled this affair at court, I anfwered him thereupon, " That it did not depend on " my pleafure to leave the court, where the Czar, my mafter, Mr. DE LANGE. 271 ■ mafter, had fent me to refidc, till he ftiould recall FEBR# " me." I7 22 - The 1 8th and 19th, his Majefty caufed the celebra- tion of the feaft of Lanthorns, which had been annual- ly celebrated, at the court of china, for above 200a years. This feaft was folemnized at czchan-zchum- nienne with great magnificence. During the grand entertainment, which was that day at court, they re- prefented all forts of plays, and other diverting (hows; and, at night, they exhibited grand fire- works, which,, joined to fo many illuminations, and to the prodigious quantity of lanthorns, adorned with figures, and di- verfified with all forts of colours, caufed a furprifing agreeable view, during the darknefs of the night*'. They placed me, on this occafion, the fame as they did the laft time at pekin, at the diftance of fome paces from the Emperor's throne. The 20th, being returned to pekin, fome of the principal of the korea merchants came to fee me; but when they would have entered my apartment, fome of * The chikese are accuitomcd to be markably beautiful, the variety and livelinefs at very great expence at this feftiral, in fire- of their colours furpafs the European per- works, and in lanthorns, having lanthorns formances fo much, that we are obliged to that will coft them 10,000 laen, and up- cv;n, they excel us in thefe performances. wards. The fire of their rockets are alio re- the 272 JOURNAL OF febr. the foldiers, who accompanied them, oppofed it; and 1722. they narrowly efcaped the lafh of the foldiers whips, who had lifted them againfl thofe merchants. Upon which, I prefently ordered them to be kept, by our people, in the court before my houfe, to wait there till the merchants mould go out of my houfe. And I, at the fame time, gave them to underftand, that they for the future would do wifely not to make ufe of their whips at my houfe. After which the merchants indeed entered into my apartment, but dared not make any flay there; for fear of being infulted by the foldi- ers that efcorted them*. The civility with which I received them, and to which they had not been ufed with the Chinese, made them have a defire of being more acquainted with me. For they came again on the 2 2d, before my houfe, but the guard at the gate refufed them entrance. * The chikese being accuflomed to ever be defirous of throwing off the ch ine se treat the inhabitants of korea with great yoke; feeing, that, by the river amoor, the roughnefs, and having prohibited them all russes could fall down into the ports of correfpondence with foreign nations, it is korea, without a pofiibility of the Chinese not to be expected that they lliould relax hindering them. And it is not impoflible but their hard treatment of them, for the fake this conduct of .Mr. lance might have been of aminifter of the court of Russia ; which one caufe of the court of china's fudden is ..s it were the only power who could fup- rcfolution of ordering him to leave the conn- port the inhabitants of korea, if they fliould try. MARCH. Mr. D E L A N G E. 273 MARCH. MARCH . During this month, we continued our trade as much 1722. as the Mandarins, and foldiers of our guard, would permit. There pafled nothing elfe remarkable, unlefs that the commiliary having fent a clerk of the cara- van towards the deferts, to fee in what condition the horfes were, which were left there in their way to pe- kin; he reported to us, that they were all in very bad plight; and that if we did not, out of hand, fend mo- ney, that they might be put into flables, there was danger of the greateft part of them dying. APRIL. The 6th of this month, I fent my interpreter, at the defire of the commiiTary, to the Mandarins which were placed at our houfe on account of the caravan, and let them know, that the commhTary being obliged to fend one of his people with money, towards the de- fert, in order that the people, who had the charge of the horfes of the caravan, fliould be enabled to put them into (tables, he would, for the greater fecuricy, have occafion for fome foldiers, or fome others, to efcort this man; and I prayed their care of this affair. Whereupon they returned me anfwer, that they would Vol. II. M m make 274 JOURNAL OF april. make their report to the council; for, without their 1722. orders, they could do nothing in it. ^ / ~ v " v> ' The 7 th, two Mandarins, accompanied by a clerk, came to bring me an anfwer, from the prefident, on this affair ; and , it being wrote on a fheet of paper r they read the fame to me in the following terms. " The Allegamba having been informed yefterday, " that you wanted to fend a meflage again towards the " defer cs, could not but imagine that it was for fome " other bufinefs than that of horfes, that your people " made fuch frequent journies between the defer ts and " pekin; this gives him reafon to think, that, by the " help of the mongalls, you carry on a fecret intelli- " gence between this city and selinginsky, which " may give birth to complaints and threats between " the two empires ; for he is not ignorant, that the " mongalls are a people capable of engaging in fuch " affairs, and that the russes do not grudge money on " fuch occafions." I asked them thereupon, " Whe- " ther this anfwer was from the Allegamba, or whether " it was their own competition." Upon which they af- fured me, that they wrote it, word for word, the fame that the Allegamba gave them \ and that it was for the Mr. DE LANGE. 275 the fame reafon he would not confent to the fending APRIU the perfon, as defired. 1722^ After this explanation, I thought neceffary, for my greater fecurity, to defire them to acquaint the Alle- gamba, on my behalf, u That the precaution he took " was not right to take, unlefs with prifoners, or unlefs " he had any intercepted letter to produce, by which " he could convict me of having fought to embroil the " two empires ; that bearing, as I did, a publick cha- " rafter, I might write, as often as I pleafed, without " having any occafion either of the efcort, or the con- " fent of the prefident; and the fame, if I had a cou- " rier to difpatch for my private affairs, as he could not " prevent it without an open violence." I fent forth- with my interpreter to the council, with the Manda- rins, to know the determination of this minifter. But he fent me word, that he had no defire to employ the horfes and the people of the army of the Emperor, his mafter, in our fervice, on journies which muft caufe them to be at expences for which they were not fur- nilhed by their ordinary pay. Upon which I made him the propofal of being ourfelves at the expence of the people for the efcort which he mould grant us, and that we would alfo mount them on our own horfes, that M m 2 they 2 j6 JOURNALOF April, tne y might have no occafion for the Emperors; or, if 1722. that was ftill not fatisfa&ory, I would only demand a v ^ v ^ v ^paflporc, and would run the risk of fending one of our own people without an efcort. But he continued firm in his denial, and would not allow of one or other of the expedients; contenting himfelf with letting me know, once for all, " That he would do nothing in it." I learnt, at the fame time, from my interpreter, that they had reafoned among themfelves, on this occafion, in much the following manner ; " Thefe foreigners " come here with their commerce, to encumber us e- " very moment with a thoufand petty affairs, pretend- " ing that they ought to be favoured, on all occaflons, " no more nor lefs than if they laid an obligation on us; " and yet, we are ftill to receive the firft anfwer from " them on the fubject of our affairs." The 1 6th, I underftood, that, fome weeks ago, the Tufli-du Chan of the moncalls * who encamp * This is the name of the prcfent Chan nisey, and even from thence, on the other of the Wefiern mongalls. This Chan was fide of this river, towards the fouices of the heretofore fovereign ; but, fincc the Eaft- oby; and, on the other fide, towards the em mongalls have porTefied themfelves cart, they reach to the Great wall. The of chi s a, he put himfelf under the pro- Chan of the Weftcrn mongalls hath a tection of that empire; in order to be the great many petty Chans of this nation for better able to make head againft the kal- his vafTals, and can bring 100,000 men, or mucks, with whom they are, in a manner, more, into the field, all cavalry; but his at com final war He is a very powerful foldiers fall far fliort of the Kalmucks prince; his dominions, on the wcitcrn fide, folditry. reach to the bu.n..s of the great river ye- at Mr. D E L A N G E. 277 at urga, had brought complaints to the court, of the april. ill conduct of the russ merchants who came to urga; 1722. and that he had, at the fame time, advertifed the mi- niftry, that there never had been fo great a concourfe of russ and Chinese merchants at his refidence, as in this year; that, thereupon, his Majefty had taken a re- folution to fend a Mandarin with orders to the Chan to chafe out all the merchants, as well russes as Chi- nese, from urga, without letting it appear that it was done by order of his Majefty; but that it fhould appear as the proper a<5l of the Tufh-du-Chan, as ma- iler of his own country. The fame day, a courier, who was lately arrived from selinginsky, with difpatches from the Mandarin who refided there, told my interpreter, that the intendant of selinginsky had tendered feveral packets of let- ters, that came from Russia, to this Mandarin, in or- der to be forwarded to the council of the affairs of the mongalls at pekin ; but he refufed to receive them, becaufe the intendant could not acquaint him with their contents. MAY. The 4th of this month, two Mandarins of the coun- cil, accompanied with three clerks and two Oificers of our 278 JOURNAL OF may. our g uaf d, being come to my apartment at 1 1 o clock 1722. at night, informed me, that the Allegamba, being re- ^^^ turned from court, wanted to fpeak with me on an af- fair of confequence ; and becaufe he was employed, during the day- time, from morning till night, he prayed me to give myfelf the trouble of coming to him, though it was late at night. I was a bed when the melTage came to me ; however I made no difficulty of xifing, to comply with this minifter's defire ; the more, as the Mandarins allured me that the buiinefs he want- ed to fpeak with me about was a very preffing affair. When I came to his houfe I was received with remark- able civility, and the Allegamba being come in perfon to meet me, even to the court, he led me to his a- partment, and defired me to fit down by him. He then began to make excufes, that, in fo long a time, he had not been able to fee me at his own houfe, or in other places; but that he fuppofed I was not ignorant that he was obliged to be every day, from morning till night, with his Majefty, at czcha n-z chumnienne. Upon which I replied, that his excufe was unanfvver- able; and that I commiferated his being obliged to pafs his time in fo fatiguing a manner. After many other reciprocal compliments of this nature, he de- manded Mr, DE LANGE, 279 manded of me, " If it was long fince I had any news M A Y . " from se lin gin sky." I anfwered, " That it was 1722. " fome time fince I had any." In the end, the affair which he was about difcovered itfelf, by little and little, when he asked me, " If I remembered that when I u would lately difpatch a meflenger, by kalchanna, " towards the defert, he had told me that he could not " confent to it, becaufe he apprehended, that, by fuch " means, fecret correfpondence might be carried on, " which might bring on fome mifunderftanding be- " tween the two empires." I told him thereupon, " That I did remember that, and the reft of the unex- " peeled anfwer he then gave me; but, not having e- " ver been able to guefs whence fuch fufpicion could " arife, he would infinitely oblige me, if he would pleafe " to fpeak a little more intelligibly on this affair." Whereupon he replied, " We apprehend you have in- " telligence of our defer ters, which you do not think M fit to communicate to us*." Thereupon I remon- * TheTONGusES, as well as the mom- of altercations between the two empires. galls, and other people of tartar ex- In order to remedy thefe inconveniences, it traclion, who inhabit on the confines of rus- was agreed in the lad treaty, that, for the si a and china, are accuftomed to defert future, fuch d.ferters mould not be received very often, by hundreds of families, from by either power, but mould honeftly be re- rile lands of one empire to thofe of the o- turned to the place from whence they came, ther, according as their caprice or intered From this article the Chinese pretend a prompts them ; which is often die fubject right to reproach the russes with not a deed that it was from the faid tursoff, dated urga, 20th of April, 1722. And as the Mandarin and clerk, who brought the letter, were ftill in my chamber, when I began to read it, I made my interpreter tranflate it to them by word of mouth, in the mongall language, to the end that they might communicate the contents to the Allegamba, and know of him if he would grant me a conference on the fubjeel: of this affair, or would rather receive from me a memorial thereupon. The 8th, the fame Mandarin came to my houfe, and upon my defiring to know if he had acquitted himfelf of the commidion I gave him the day before, to the Allegamba, he anfwered in the affirmative, and that he was ordered to bring me his anfwer, which was, " That " the Bogdoi-Chan would hear nothing for the future " talked of any commerce of the russes, in his empire, " until all the difturbances on the frontiers were en- " tircly adjufted; and as, for this reafon, there might " continue a long fpace of time before any caravan " might come again to pekin, the Bogdoi-Chan found it Mif. D E L A N G £. 287 " it proper that the agent fhould return with the pre- M ay. « fent caravan; and when the commerce between the 1722. " two empires mould come to be renewed, he fhould^" " likewife be permitted to return to pekin." Where- upon I made anfwer to the Allegamba, " That the or- " ders I received from the Czar, were, as he himfelf well " knew, to remain at pekin till he fhould recal me; " but as I was in no condition to oppofe the orders of " the Bogdoi-Chan, I was obliged to have patience, " and to refolve to do w T hat I had no power to avoid " doing; neveithelefs, that this was no anfwer to what " I defifed to know from him, and that I waited for " it with impatience, as I did for a clear explanation " upon this precipitate manner of breaking off all com- " merce and correfpondence, between the two empires, " without waiting for a refolution upon the affairs of " the frontiers, and without any declaration of war, or " other previous mark of hoftility on either fide." But the Mandarin declined to charge himfelf with fuch a meflage, he not thinking it proper for him to repeat fuch terms as it was couched in to the Allegamba, fay- ing, I muft either feek an opportunity to tell him my- felf, or demand a conference, for that purpofe, by my interpreter. The 2'8S JOURNAL OY may. The fame day, in the afternoon, I fent my inter- 1722. preter to the council, to acquaint the Allegamba, by ^^^^ means of the Mandarins he might find there, that I had, the fame day^ received the orders of the Bogdoi- Chan for my return to Russia; but I had received no anfwer on his part, upon the affair which was the fub- ject I wanted to confer with him upon; for which rea- fon, if he could not fpare time to fpeak with me him- felf, he would, at leaft, let me know whether he would receive a memorial, on that fubjecl:, from me or not. The 9th, another Mandarin came to me, and ac- quainted me, that the Allegamba had been informed of the fubjecl:, concerning which I had fent my inter- preter to the council the day before; and, as he had not a moment to fpare, to confer perfonally with me, he had fent this fame Mandarin to me, to whom I •might explain myfelf on what I had to fay to him; as the Allegamba had given him orders to make him a faithful report of every thing which I fhould charge him with. Upon which I told him, that I wifhed he would inform the Allegamba that I prayed him to give me, under his hand, a precife anfwer to the points fol- lowing, viz. J. "If the Bogdoi-Chan was difpofed, before my departure, Mr. D E L A N G E. 289 « departure, to receive and to anfwer the credentials M A y. " which I was charged with from his Czarilh Majefty? 1722. II. " If any fuitable fatisfaction was to be expected 4t for the injuries done to his Czarifh Majefty 's fubjecls " by the Tufh-du-Chan, or, at lead, by his orders? III. " What was the reafon that they would not " grant a free pafTage to the letters, addrefled to the " council and to me, which remained on the frontiers ? IV. " In cafe the Bogdoi-Chan fhould perfift in the u refolution of fending me home, what I fhould fay to " the Czar, my mailer, regarding the perpetual peace " between the two empires ? V. " Suppofing that, contrary to expectation, my " departure might be deferred, I defired to know, if, *' in conformity to the treaties of peace, the Bogdoi- " Chan would grant me poft-horfes for my journey, or " whether I muft find them myfelf ?" The icth, there came to me a Mandarin, from the Allegamba, to inform me, " That there was no likeli- " hood that the Bogdoi-Chan would alter his refolu- " tion with regard to my departure ; that no perfon " had the boldnefs to fpeak again to his Majefty, after ' he had once explained himfelf fo pofitively on this u affair. But that the Allegamba, in his turn, wifhed Vol. II. O o "to JOURNAL OF " to be informed why I demanded fo preeifely .to know " the motives of my being fens away; and why I infi- " fted fo ftrenuoufly to have a clear explanation of the 44 intentions of the Bogdoi-Chan towards the Czar: " that he did not know whether \ durft make fuch de- " mands, in cafe the Bogdoi-Chan fhould be pleafed " to fpeak perfonally to me, without my being afraid " that he would make complaints of it to the Czar my *' matter." Upon which I returned htm as follows, viz. " That it was abfoiutely neceflary for me to be fully in* 44 formed of what I defired to know;, that, without this 44 being cleared up, Icould not well refolve to depart, fee- 44 ing it appeared evidently, that fince the departure of 44 Mr. de ismayloff, the court had entirely changed 44 its difpofidon regarding the prefervation of the good- " under (land ing between the two empires ; that the Al- 44 legamba himfelf could not be ignorant, how many of 44 his Czarifh Majefty's fubjccls had, immediately after 44 the conclufion of the laft treaty of peace, deferted, and " come to fettle on the lands in the dominions of the 41 Bogdoi Chan, without the Czar's having fhown any 44 refentment to this time, notwithflandin"; the fame {i was directly contrary to the fenfe of the treaty; that 44 the Czar, on this occafion, far from forbidding the 4( fubjccls Mr. BE L A N G E. 2^1 " fubjects of c h 1 n a entrance into his dominions, had M a y. " always permitted them, without interruption, to en- 1722. " joy, in his dominions, an entire liberty, as well in xc-^ / ^ ( ^ u " gard to trade as all other affairs which could con- " cern them, not even excepting fome of thofe very " deferters, who, having affairs to tranfacl: at fome pla- " ces in the Czars dominions, had been no lefs wel- " come than the others, fubjects of the Bogdoi-Chan ; " but now, that 700 of the fubje&s of ghina had paf- " fed the frontiers, and would eftablifh themfelves on " the lands belonging to Russia, that would forth- " with forbid all commerce, not receive any more let- " ters, and in fine, at one ftroke, break off all com- " munication between the two empires; and that with- " out even waiting the anfwer of the governor- general " of Siberia to the letter wrote to him on the fubject, " which was the only certain means of knowing whe- " ther his Czarifh Majefty intended to retain thefe " people, or to make them return; that, to conclude, " I prayed the Allegamba to confider, if it was not " much more eafy to accommodate this affiiir by treat* l( ing of it with more mildnefs, than to puih it with an " haughtinefs not to be born with*." * It is certain that the judgment of the late Emperor, either from jealoufy, or the O o 2 Where- 29,2 JOURNAL OF may. Whereupon the Mandarin told me, he could not 1722. pofitively undertake for his daring to fay all this to the Allegamba; but that, if a proper occafion offered, he would not fail of doing it faithfully. He told me further; on the part of that minifter, that the Mandarins, who had been fent laft year, by command of the Bogdoi- Cban, to pafs the frontiers of Russia, were returned, they not being permitted to proceed on their journey, before the governor- general of s 1 b e r i a was made acquainted- with it; that the Allegamba might expect to wait long enough for an anfwer, as well upon this affair, as upon all other affairs which regarded the interelt. of the two- empires, fo long as they did not allow of a free paf- fage to the letters wrote, concerning them, to the court. I received no more in anfwer then. In the mean time, 1 had made a demand, fome time ago, of the council, for a free paflage for the caravan by the old road of kerlinde, (which the former cara- artifices of fomc fecret enemies, was fo ;il- figns of his fucceiTor. But the death of tercel, with regard to the russi A-trade, a peter the Great entirely broke thefe mea- little before his death, that there was no o- fures ; fo that the affairs between russi a trier way of adjutling it, but the having re- and china are (till, at this time, on the courfe to arms ; which was fully refolved on, fame terms they were on the departure of rn the r,.trt of russia, when the news of Mr. de lance from pekin ; and, fince the the d»,.th oi this monarch arrived there; hull caravan that left pekin with him, no v.!. !i fisfper.d'd the execution of this de- caravan hath bjen fent from siblria to hgn, till they Pnould fee clearly into the de- pekin. vans Mr, DE LANGE. 293 vans had been ufed to take,) to fave them the incon- M A y# veniencies attending the route by the deferts, \$ere i? 22 < the people and the cattle had much to endure for want of water; and, for this purpofe, I fent my interpreter, with a clerk of the caravan, on the 1 4th, to the coun- cil, to know if the Bogdoi Chan had given his con- fent, or not. But they told him for anfvver, " That " they expert ed to have been freed from their impor- " tuning the council about their beggarly commerce, " after they had been told fo often, that the council " would not embarrafs themfelves any more about af- " fairs that were only beneficial to the russes; and " that, of courfe, they had only to return by the way " they came." The fame day, I fent to the houfe of the firfb mini- fter, to know if I could have the honour of feeing him. But he excufed himfelf ; faying, that, being far advan- ced in years, he wanted to be at eafe. Neverthelefs I did not refrain going myfelf, the next day, which was the 1 5th, to his houfe ; and, the guard at the gate fullering me to pafs without inter- ruption, I entered directly into the court-yard, and ac- quainted him with my being there, by one of his fcr- vants ) deflring he would afford me a quarter of an hour's audi- 294 JOURNAL OF u A y. audience. But he fent me word, " That he was not at 1722. « leifure to fee me; and that, as the affairs, about " which I would fpeak to him, very probably only re- " garded the council of foreign affairs, he defired I " would addrefs myfelf to them. I thereupon let him know, by the fame domeftick, " That I was come to " fpeak with him, as the firft minifter of the Bogdoi- <£ Chan ; and if I had not had a very preffmg occafion " of applying to him, he might be fure I would have tnat I remained at p e k i n, after the departure 1722. « of Mr. de ismayloff, in quality of agent, impower- " ed by the court of Russia, till fuch time as his Cza- " rifh Majefty mould be pleafed to recal me. Not- " withftanding which, not regarding fuch folemn en- " gagements, they had, in regard to this laft caravan, " treated us fo ill, that, if they had been at open war " with russia, they could not have done worfe; that " they had kept fhut up, during many months, the " commhTary of the caravan, with all his people, juft "as if they had been flaves ; that there was no kind " of infult to which they did not expofe thofe who " had a defire to come and trade with our people. " And yet more, they had caufed the russ fubjecls " to be fhamefully driven out of urga, who had " come to trade there on the faith of publick treaties. " And, as to what regards myfelf, they had made me " fuffer more affronts, on all occafions that offered, " than can be imagined ; in the end, not yec fatisfied " with all thofe fteps, the prefident of the council had " made it be declared to me poficively, that there " mould not abfolutely, for the future, any caravan be " admictcd, before the affair of the frontiers mould be " regulated to the fatisfaction of the Bogdoi-Chan ; " and, Mr. D E L A N G E. 297 "and, at the fame time, caufed it to be fignified to may. " me, that I mud prepare to depart with the caravan, 1722. «' becaufe his Majefty would not fuffer me to remain •' any longer at his court, in the uncertainty that af- " fairs flood in between the two empires. That, if this " order regarded me only as a private perfon, there " would be nothing in it which did not depend entirely " on the pleafure of the Bogdoi-Chan; but having been " once admitted by him to refide at his court, in qua- " lity of agent of his Czarifh Majefty, it was a maxim, " praeTifed by all the civilized nations in the world, not " to fend away, in a manner fo indecent, a perfon vef- " ted with a publick character, unlefs entirely to break " off all good underftanding with his mafter. That if " they deiired very ardently, as they afferted on all oc- " cafions, the reftitution of the deferters in queftion, " and an amicable convention in regard to the fron- " tiers, he would permit me to tell him, that, it ap- " peared to me, they took quite the wrong way to " obtain them; and that the fending me away, fo far " from facilitating thofe affairs, was moft certainly the " greatell: obftacle they could think of. That I thought " it my duty toremonftrate the foregoing matters at this " time, that they might ftili be remedied; becaufe, af- Vol. II. P p ter JOURNAL OF " tcr my departure, I did not well fee how it would be " pofTible to get out of this embarraffment by amicable means. The minifter thereupon anfwered me, " That " it being already fo long a time fince the russes had " given them the expectation of regulating the affairs of " the frontiers, conform to the treaties concluded be- " tween the two empires, without their taking the leaft " thought of bringing things to a clofe, his Majefty had " come to a refolution not to admit any caravan be- " fore he fhould be fully fatisfied, on the part of rus- " sia, of their adherence to treaties; and, as thereby *' my refidence at his court became quite unneceflary " his Majefty faw nothing that fhould oblige him to " keep me longer in his empire. That, in regard to " what paffed at urga, the Tufh-du-Chan had good " reafons for removing our people from his refidence, " who had committed great infolencies, no ways con- " form to treaties. That, as to what regarded the ill " ufage which I pretended the caravan had fuffered, " he did not well know of what I fpoke; but, as to " their being kept (hut up a longer time than ordina- " ry, it was our own fault, who would have made in- " novations in the trade of the caravans. In fine, in one * word, that his Majefty was tired of receiving the law, in Mr. DE LANGE. 399 * in his own country, from foreigners, of whom his M A Y . M fubjects reaped no profit; and, that, if the court of 1722. 4i russia delayed longer doing him juftice, he fhould M be obliged to do it himfelf, by fuch ways as he fhould " find moft convenient." Upon which I replied, u That " I was much furprifed to find the Bogdoi-Chan in a " difpofition fo little favourable towards his Czarifh " Majefty, after he had the goodnefs to teftify himfelf, " on more than one occafion, to Mr. de ismayloff, " that he defired nothing more than always to live in " a good underftanding with the Czar, my mafter; and " that I could not conceive what caufed his change of " fentiments fo fuddenly, with regard to his Czarifh " Majefty. That if the court of china had reftituti- " ons to demand from us, we had the like to expe& 4i from them ; and that, in any fhape, there was no rea- " fon that could, in juftice, oblige us to reftore their " defer ters, fo long as they retained ours. That if the " indulgence of the Czar, my mafter, in the affair of 41 albazin*, had raifed rafh hopes in any perfons, who * Albazin was a little town of about the year 1 7 1 J, the Eaftern mongalli, 500 or 600 houfts, which the russes had fupported by the Chinese, befieged it, and, built in a very fertile country, upon the (buth having carried it after a fiege of two years, fide of the river amoor, near the mouth rafed it to the ground. «f the river ax-eazim. But at the end of P p 2 are 300 JOURNAL OF m a y. " arc *U informed of the forces of Russia, and of the 1722. " monarch who reigns over them, I was perfwaded, that ^*^« a monarch fo enlightened, as was the Bogdoi-Chan, " would not fuffer himfelf to be blinded by fuch delu- u five appearances; and that he knew full well how to " diftinguifh an indulgence, arifing from magnanimity 11 and efteem, for a prince his friend and ally, from a for- " ced compliance, grounded on weaknefs and indolence: " That as I had, in my inftrudUons, orders to apply my " utmoft endeavours for the prefervation of the good " underftanding between the two empires, I thought I " might tell him, that I was exceedingly furprifed at " the proceedings of the Chinese miniftry, on this oc- " cafion; that he could not be ignorant that it depend- " ed only on his Czarifh Majefty to finifh the war with " Sweden, in the moft honourable manner; and that " perhaps this peace was actually made at the time I " was fpeaking to him; after which, I faw nothing that " could prevent the Czar, my matter, from turning his " arms to this fide, in cafe they exercifed his patience " too much. That I gave him my word, that all the " great difficulties, which perhaps might be imagined " in china to attend fuch an cnterprife, would vanilTi " immediately, if ever his Czarilh Majefty fhould re- folve Mr. DE LANGE. 301 " folve on tranfporting himfclf to the frontiers; for he MA Y , " was a Prince that did not fuffer himfelf to be hin* 1722. " dered by difficulties; and that they might then have " fufficient caufe to repent their having defpifed the " friendfhip of a monarch who was not accuftomed to " receive offences with impunity, and who was inferior " to no monarch in the world, neither in grandeur nor " power." This difcourfe was not at all to the Ale- gada's taftc ; therefore, after fome frlence, he deman- ded of me, " If I was authorifed to talk to him in the " manner I did? and if I was not apprehenfive of being " difavowed by the court of Russia, in cafe they mould " make complaint upon the menaces I ufed to them?" I thereupon replied to him, " That, in the ftate to " which I faw affairs were brought, I thought it necef- " fary not to difguife any thing to him, to the end that " the Bogdoi-Chan, faithfully informed by him, of all he " had to confider for and againft this affair, might there- " by be the better enabled to determine with himfelf, " thereupon, in a manner fuitable to his great wifdom " and juftice. That neverthelefs it was wrong to take " what I had faid on this occalion for menaces, feeing u they were only mere reflections, which I was defirous " he ihould make on the unhappy confequences which " the jo* JOURNALOF M A y. M tnc difdainful conduct they fhowcd, in regard to us, 1722. « might in time produce; and that I was fo little ap- ^S*^" prehenfive of being difavowed by the court of rus- " si a, that I was ready to give him in writing every " word I had faid to him; and that it would be the " greatcfl: fervice he could render me, to fpeak out of " hand concerning it to the Bogdoi-Chan, the more as * I was well allured, that, if they would give the lead " atcencion to the irregular manner in which they had " acted in this affair, with a friendly and allied power, " they would not fail of comprehending that my in- " tentions were fincere, and only had for its aim the pre- " fervation of the harmony between the two empires." The anfwer of the minifter to this was, " That it be- " ing his Majefty's cuftom never to take any refolution, " without firft well weighing all circumftances, he ne- " ver changed his meafures for any reafon whatfoever; u and, after what he had declared poficively, in regard " to the caravan and my perfon, he had no inclination " to propofe to him a change of fentiment in this re- " gard. That we had nothing to do but to make a " beginning in complying with our engagements; af- " ter which they would fee what they had to do as to il .the reft." Upon which I concluded, by telling him, " That Mr. D E L A N G E. 30} u That the cafe being fo, I faw plainly, that it was in MAY# H vain, on our fide, to ufe more endeavours for preferv- 1722. " ing the good under {landing between the two empires, w as long as they would contribute nothing towards ic u on their fide; that therefore the game muft go on, v feeing the dice were thrown already. That however " I had, at leaft, the fatisfaction of having done my " duty in advertifing him, as firft minifter of the Bog- " doi Chan, of the unhappy confequences which would " enfue from all this; and that was the fole reafon " which made me think it abfolutely neceflary, for me «' to give him the trouble of this vifit." After which I rofe up and took leave of him. On parting he re- conducted me to the entrance of the faloon, where he flayed till I was mounted on horfeback. The fame day I was likewife to take leave of the Poyamba, or great marfhal of the court; and, after having returned him thanks, which were truly due to him, for all the goodnefs which he had fhowed to me ever fince the firft moment I had the honour of being known to him. I profited myfelf of the prefent op- portunity, to reprefent fuccin&ly to him the fame things which I had reprefented to the Alegada. He thereupon affured me, " That he was forry to fee thac ' k the §04 JOURNAL OF m a y. " tne f ucce fs of m y negotiations did not anfwer my 1722. " wifhes. That it was true, that the Bogdoi Chan was very much piqued that he faw there was no end " made to the affair of the deferters; and that he had " certain advice, that our court had no defire to fatis- " fy him on this article; and that we only fought to "protract time: that it was on thefe confiderations " that he had been prevailed on, by the miniftry, to " order my return. That, for his part, he was afto- " nifhed to fee that our court could hefitate a moment " to facrifice fome hundreds of families, who were in " the utmoft poverty, to the folid advantages which we " might promife ourfelves, from the friendfhip which " the Bogdoi-Chan had conceived for the perfon of the " Czar my mafter; and he made no manner of doubt, " but that, if the Czar had been well informed of the " juftice of the pretenfions of the court of china, and " the little importance of that affair, he would inflantly " have given orders for reftoring the families reclaim- " ed." I would have had him confider the diftance of the places, and that it was in a manner impoffible that an anfwer could have arrived from st. Petersburg, on this affair, fince the departure of Mr. de ismayloff. But he flopped my mouth by telling me, " That he " could Mr. D E L A N G E. 305 41 could not fay precifely what the diftance was, but he M A Y . 11 knew very well, that, on other occaflons, our couri- 1722. " ers had made the journey in much lefs time. That " he advifed me to do my bed in this affair, when I " mould arrive on the frontiers ; and that he could af- *' fure me, that when the Bogdoi-Chan was made eafy " on this point, he would explain himfelf very reafon- " ably on all the reft of what we mould wifh to have " done; that however, as to myfelf, I had caufe to " be well fatisfied with the fentiments the court enter- " tained of me; and that his Majefty had himfelf de- " clared, that, in cafe affairs mould come to be accom- " modated, he would not be forry to fee me return to 11 PEKIN." The 1 6th, I went to pay my court to the Bogdoi- Chan, upon his departure from pekin to pafs the fum- mer at jegcholl, but had not the honour of fpeak- ing to him at this time; his Majefty letting me know, by the mafter of the ceremonies, " That he recom- " mended the fame thing to me which he had charged " Mr. de is may l off with, to tell his Czarilh Majefty*. * When Mr. de ismayloff had his main at pskin, in quality of agent of the audience of leave of the late Emperor of court of Russia, expecting that Mr. de china, this monarch declared exprefsly, ismayloff would, on his return, pre- trial he would permit Mr. de lange to re- tail widi his Czarilh Majefty to fend back Vol. II. CLq « That, 306 journal of MAY . M That, for the reft, he wilhed me a good journey; 1722. " and expected that I would not fail to write from the ^^ v ^^ fc " >l " frontiers, in cafe I mould there be informed of any " news from Europe." A little before I received the meflage from his Ma- jefty I had an interview with the Allegamba, who, af- ter an infinite deal of careiTmg land flattery, begged of me to labour, as much as pofTible, to forward the re- turning their defer ters ; at the fame time adding, " That " the Bogdoi-Chan had great reliance on me in regard " to this affair; in expectation, that, according to all " appearances, I would not be backward to return foon " to china, either on the fubject in queftion, or on * ; the fubject. of commerce." I affured him thereupon, " That his Czarifh Majefty, having fubjecls in abun- " dance, had at no time the leaft temptation to keep " the vaffals of neighbouring powers unjuftly. n And I promifed, at the fame time, to write to him, if, at my arrival on the frontiers, I mould learn that any refolu- tion was taken on this affair. Afterwards I demanded th* rLf. ' i f :r.i!;cs ;t quoAion ; but, in Hut Mr.de ismayloff, on his arrival at . '. r..;t be cifcded inftantly, he mosco, found the court fo btifily employed I away the faid aj;er>t, about the expedition to rusu, that he but v. 1 more caravans, till found no opportunity of getting a final refo- cntircly faislkd on this article. lotion on tliis affair. of Mr. D E L A N G E. 307 of him, " For what reafon they refufed conveyance of M AY . " the letters which were on the frontiers." At the 1722. fame time I led him to imagine fome appearance that v " / ^'^^ ; thofe letters bore fomething relating to their affair. Whereupon he anfwered me, " That, if it was poffible " to believe it to be fo, he would not make the leaft " difficulty of inftantly ordering the letters to be " brought hither; but that, if they contained orders " for the rendering back their deferters, they would " not have failed to communicate the fame to the " Mandarin, who kept himfelf at selinginsky purely " on that affair." At length, not feeing any appearance of being able to prolong my ftay at pekin till the recal of his Czarifh Majefty, I prefled the commifTary to neglect nothing that might facilitate his departure as foon as poflible; and thereupon he difpatched beforehand, On the 25th, a part of his baggage for krasna- gora, which is a place, a days journey without the Great Wall, appointed for the rendezvous of all the caravan. On this occafion they did not give a guard of Chinese foldiers to the caravan , as had been formerly practifed ; but they had ordered all the towns, where they mould flop, to give them guards; Q^ q 2 befides 30$ JOURNAL OF tune, befides which, there was a Bonska, or courier of the 1722. council of the affairs of the m on galls, ordered to at- tend the baggage, who was not to leave them without a new order. JUNE. The 6th, a Mandarin, named tulishin, let me know, that, having received orders from the Bogdoi- Chan to accompany me to selinginsky, and to furnifh pro- vifions and poft-horfes on the road, he would be glad to be informed when I thought I fhould be ready to depart; that he might take his meafures accordingly, and difpatch in good time the couriers neceffary for the deferts, to make the requifite difpofitions for my paiTage. The 8 th, the commhTary went to the council, to demand a guard for the caravan; but they granted none ; acquainting him, at the fame time, that the Mandarin tulishin was alfo charged with the care of the caravan; and that, as he would be obliged frequent- ly to leave the route of the caravan, for providing vic- tuals and ho;:fes which I fhould have occafion for on my journey, he was to have with him a clerk and two couriers, under his command, who were not to leave the caravan Mr. D E L A N G E. 309 caravan before they fhould fafely arrive at selin- june. GINSKY. I722, The fame day, 36 carriages were difpatched, laden ^^^ with merchandife, for the place of rendezvous, with- out any other efcort than fome of our own people, and a courier of the council. The 16th, the Allegamba invited me to come to him at the palace of the Bogdoi-Chan; and, when I ar- rived, he prefented me with two pieces of damask, on the part of the Chan ; telling me, " That his Ma- " jefty having received prefents from me, on the en- " trance of the new year, he was pleafed, in his turn, " to make me a prefent of thefe two pieces of da- " mask." I received this prefent with all due refpect; alluring this minifter, that I mould eternally cherifh the remembrance of all the gracious favours which the Bogdoi-Chan had deigned to honour me with, during my refidence in his empire ; and that, in whatever place I mould be, in time to come, I would never fail of making it a fubject of particular glory to me. JULY. The 4th, the Allegamba fenr a Mandarin to me, to fhow me a letter, which he had very lately received from the Mandarin who refided at selinginsky, in which he made jlO JOURNALOF July, made heavy complaints of the chicaneries that he was 1722. forced to bear with, during his refidence in that place, °^'^^as well from the officers of his Czarifh Majefty as the other inhabitants of that city ; adding, " That every " body demanded of him perpetually, the reafon why " he tarried there fo long, and if he did not intend " foon to return home. That thereupon having de- " manded of them, if they had come to any refolution " on the affair which was the caufe of his being there, " they had anfwered him, that they had no other or- " ders but to conduct him back, with all civility, when " he mould think proper to return." He related be- fides in this letter, " That the allowance they gave " him, for the fubfiftencc of himfelf and retinue, was * ' fo very fcanty, that, if he had not had of his own " money wherewithal to fupply himfelf, he fhould " have been reduced to great extremities. They 4{ had, befides, prefled him very hard on the fubject of " the letters, for the council and for me, that were ar- " rived on the frontiers ; and they would, by force, " know of him the reafon why he refufed to receive " the letters, and to forward them to pekin; but that " he had always anfwered them, that, his fole errand to " selinginsky being on the affair of the defer ters, he " could Mr. DELANGE. 31 1 " could not charge himfelf, either with letters, or any july. " other affair whatsoever." After the Mandarin had 1722, explained to me the contents of this letter, he told me, that the Allegamba demanded to know of me, " Whether it was poffible that all this could be done " by order of his Czarifh Majefty." I let him know r in anfwer, " That if he had formed ideas of the per- " fon of the Czar, my mafter, by thofe paflages, he " would do well entirely to efface them ; for that, as " his Czarifh Majefty was more magnanimous than to " treat, in the manner there laid down, even prifoners " of war in his dominions, he would certainly not be- " gin fo bad a practice with the fubjects of an em- " pire in amity with him, who came into his coun- " try." I added, that notwithstanding I had reafon to- complain of things of more confequence than this Mandarin, I was neverthelefs fo far from approving the want of complaifance ufed towards him, that, if the Allegamba thought fit to give me a copy of that let- ter, I was ready to take charge of it, and to make it my bufinefs that the Czar, my mafter, fhould be ac- quainted with it. But with regard to the orders, which this Mandarin hinted he was charged with, not to re- ceive any letters, though even for the council icfelf, before 3 I2 JOUR N,A L O F july. before he fliould receive the deferters in queftion, I 1722. could not help obferving that fuch a procedure befpoke ^^^^^much coolnefs on their fide. The 8 th, the Allegamba fent to me, in the evening, a Mandarin, who told me, after making me a compli- ment from him, that he would be, the next day, at the council ; and that, if I had time to come there like- wife, he would explain the reafons which determined the court to refolve on my return; and that he would give me the fame in writing. Upon which I told him, I mould come there with great pleafure, that I might be informed of them. The 9th, having notice that the Allegamba was al- ready arrived at the council, I forthwith mounted on horfeback to go there alfo. He came in perfon to receive me at the door, and defired me to place myfelf at a little . table with him. After which he gave me to under- ftand, " That it were to be wifhed that my refidence " at that court might continue longer, as the Bogdoi- " Chan himfelf, and all the miniftry in general, were fo " well fatisfied with the conduct I had obferved dur- " ing my refidence; that they had nothing to fay a- " gainft my perfon ; that they had remarked, with " much fatisfaction, that, by the good order I had kept, " the Mr, DE LANGL 313 * the prefent caravan had begun and finlfhed its com- july. " merce, without producing the leaft difpute between 1722. «' the merchants of the two nations*. It had alfo^^*^^^ " formerly been too ufual to fee the fervants and peo- M pie of the caravan do numberlefs infolencies in the " ftreets, and commit all forts of excefTes ; but that, " for this time, they could not without furprife ob- " ferve that nothing of this fort had appeared; but " that every thing pafled with all defirable decency")-". After I had paid this compliment by another, I told him, " That it was with intention of maintaining the " like good order, that his Czariih Majefty fent me to " china; and that it would be owing to themfelves, if u things, for the future, mould not be carried on in *Thc Chinese ufually bought, from the trading with the Russian caravans, caravan, goods on credit, for which, at the f The exceffes committed, by thole of the time when due, they could not pay ; which caravan, had been but too frequent till this occafioned very frequent difputes between time ; and the commhTaries, in place of re- the two nations ; to remedy this, the court dreffing thofe diforders, had been very often - of pekin had been accuflomed to put into themfelves the authors of them, without the hands of the commuTary, at his depar- giving themfelves the trouble of making the ture, all thofe who could not pay what they lcafl fatisfaclion for them to the Chinese, v.- : re indebted to the caravan, in order that riotwithftanding the gre : complaints to the he might compel them to pay as they befl: Russian mir.iilers thereupon on many oc- could ; in which cafes the commifTaries had cafions. In all appearance, what contributed frequently committed great abufes, and principally to the good order obferved by treated the poor chinise, whom they had the Russ-fcrvants of this caravan, was their in their cuflody, in the moil: barbarous man- not getting brandy, at free coft, as they did ner; which very much difgufted the people when the Chinese furnifhed the fubfiilence of pekin, and rendered them very avcrfe to for the caravan. Vol. II. R r « the 314 JOURNAL OF july. " tne & me o^er; and if any other petty incidents did 1722. " not come to an accommodation with the like eafc." s ^* > ^' After which, I prayed him to let me know the true fource of the difordcrs which happened, at u r g a, be- tween the fubjecls of the Czar, my mafter, and the mongalls; and " wherefore they obliged the russia- " merchants to leave that place before they had finifti- " ed their trade." He anfwered me thereupon, " That it was done by orders of the Tufh-du-Chan and his " council, as fupreme judges in their country." Up- on which I demanded of him, " Whether the Tufh- " du Chan was a fovereign prince of the mongalls,. 11 or a fubject of the Emperor of china?" He replied, That, in truth, the Chan was a vaflal of the Bogdoi- Chan's; but that did not hinder his being mafter in '' his own country*." I then prayed him to tell me, " Whether the Tufh-du-Chan was obliged to conform " himfelf to the engagement ftipulated by treaty, be- " tween the two empires, to the end, that I might * Though the Chan of the Wcftern mongalls is tributary to the Chinese, they have neverthelefs a great regard for him at the court of china; the more, as he is a very powerful prince, and, that in cafe of a revolt in china, it is from him that the prefent imperial houfe is to expect the greatdt aiHitance j his fubjects being be- yond comparifon much better foldiers than the mongall chinise, infomuch, that, if he fliould be difobliged, and mould join him- felf to the Kalmucks, or to the russes, nothing could prevent his entrance into chi- na when he pleafed, and probably bring a- bout another revolution. " know Mr. D E L A N G E. 315 u know if we ought to addrefs the court at pekin, on JUL Y . 4t the fubjedt of fatisfa&ion we had to demand on that 1722. " affair? or were to take it of the Tufh-du-Chan? as " it was not to be expelled that affair would be let ** pafs without an exact inquiry. That, for my part, u I thought the beft means of terminating that affair " amicably, was, that they mould order the Mandarin, *• who was to accompany me on the journey, to go •« with me to urga, in our way to selinginsky; to " the end, that, after having full information of this " affair, I might be able to fend a circumftantial ac- " count of it to our miniftry." But he anfwered me thereupon in thefe terms, " With us no judge who " hath given a juft fentence can be made refponfible 4t for his judgement, was he no more than a mere " clerk. Your people who were at urga have affront- *' ed the lamas, as well by words as deeds; and they " have, moreover, attempted to carry off fome m o n- " gal l families from thofe quarters ; it is for this reafon " that the Tufh-du Chan was in the right to remove " them from his territories." I anfwered him there- upon, " That this judge ought, mod certainly, to ren- " der account of his judgment, becaufe he had judged " people who were no manner of way under his jurif- R r 2 " diction; 3 i6 JOURNAL OF july. " diction; but he would have a&ed with juftice if, af- 1722. « ter having fent the culpable to selinginsky, he had " profecuted for fatisfaction at that place. Whereas, " now that he hath punifhed the innocent equally with " the guilty, and hath infringed the treaty of peace in " fo efTential an article, his judgment cannot be re- " garded but as a manifeft act of violence." The Al- " legamba, finding me infill: fo ftrenuoufly for an inqui- " ry into this affair, fmiling, told me, " Mr. Agent " you do well to make fo much work about this affair, 14 but I do not know how to explain myfelf more pre- " cifely upon it at prefent; all that I can fay to you is, " that all of it will be eafily accommodated when we " mail receive a fatisfactory anfwer upon the affair of " our deferters." After which he prefented me a writ- ing, which he faid had been drawn up by order of the Bogdoi-Chan, to ferve for my information regarding the reafons of my being fent away. Upon which we again entered into difpute together; but as thefe gentlemen, on thefe occafions,hold themfelves ftrictly tied down to a fingle word, whether efTential to the affair they are upon or not, ic was impofTtble for me to draw from him any other anfwer, than that they had not defigned to grant my remaining at peiun longer than the time of the " prefent Mr. D E L A N G E. 317 prefent caravan; and, that when the affair of the fron- july. tiers fhould be accommodated, they would not be want- 1722, ing to give a definitive refolution, as well upon this article, as upon the other propofitions which Mr. de ismayloff had made to the court. He afterwards prefented to me a letter, faying it was wrote by order of the Bogdoi-Chan, to Prince cherkasky, governor general of Siberia*; but I having refufed to receive the faid letter, it difpleafed him a little and made him fay, " That it was hardly civil in me to refufe a letter, " which the Emperor, his mafter, had ordered to be " written, and to be put into my hands." I anfwered thereupon, " That I would not chufe to do what I did " on this occafion, if the letters which the faid Prince " cherkasky, in quality of governor general of sibe- " ria, had wrote to the council, were not likewife writ- " ten by the order of the Czar, my mafter. That he " could give this letter to the Mandarin, who was to " accompany me to selinginsky, with orders to re- " ceive the letters for the court which were lying there; " and, that being done, I fhould not then make theleaft 11 difficulty to receive the faid letter." He declared to * The Prince cherkasky, governor his own follicitations ; and they afterwards general of Siberia, was recalled by the fent thither a perfon in quality of vice go- court of russia, in die year 1722, upon yernoi, who remains there itill. me 3 18 JOURNALOF july. mc afterwards, that it was the pleafure of the Bogdoi- 1722. Chan that I Ihould take jegcholl in my way, to have my audience of leave of his Majefty. And again re- fuming the article of the letter from the court for the Prince cherKasky, he told me, " That what I had " done on. this occafion was not altogether fo right; " feeing it was not allowed to any perfon, when in chi- " na, to- oppofe themfelves to the will of the Empe- 11 ror." Upon which I anfwered him, " That I was per- " fuaded his Majefty would put a different conftru&i- " on on this affair, from what he did." But that I wifh- ed, in my turn, to know from him, *' Upon what he 41 grounded his fufpicions, when he refufed us, the laii " fpring, the pafTage to the deferts for fome of our " people, whom we would have fent with money to " provide fubfiftence for our horfes; and, that under " the pretext, that by fuch expeditions fecret corref- w pondence might be carried on, which might produce " mifunderftandings between the two empires." There- upon he faid, " That in reality he had no fuch fufpi- " cions ; but that he would willingly prevent the difor- " ders, which might have happened on the journey of " thefe people; feeing, that if they had been robbed, "or afTaflinated on the road, we would not have fail- " ed Mr. D E L A N G E. 319 " ed to demand fatisfaction from the court." There- j ULY# upon I put him in mind, " That he was now brought 1722. " to explain himfelf; that it was not to hinder fecret being in the cabbin, heard a V/W great noife upon deck, not unufual on fuch occafions; at laft I perceived the veiTel to ftrike againft fome- thing, when, coming upon deck, I was not a little fur- prifed to fee the people climbing up trees ; for the bark was jambed in between two birch- trees of very large fize. All our endeavours could neither move her backwards nor forwards, until we got people from a neighbouring village, by whofe afliftance we got her warped off with little damage; which being repaired,, we proceeded again on our voyage. The 25th, we came up with the fleet at the town nishna-novogorod; where their Majefties and all the court were moil fumptuoufly entertained at the houfe of Baron strogonoff. We flaid here fome days to take in provifions and other neceflaries. The 30th, being his Majefty's birth- day, the fame was folemnized, in the ufual manner, by firing guns, &c. The 3 1 ft, his Majefty failed in his galley for cazan, efcorted by fome of the fmall gallies, leaving the refl of the fleet under the command of the lord high ad- miral apraxin. June 5th, we left nishna-novogorod, and, in fine calm weather, proceeded down the volca. The TO DERBENT. The 8th, we arrived at the city of cazan; the Em- peror had left that place the preceding day. The c;th, we again proceeded on our voyage. The 20th, we arrived at the town of saratoff. Nothing very material occurred by the way, in which we were fome times detained by ftrong gales of fouth- erly winds, and by calms, during which we were in- commoded by infinite numbers of muskito-flies. At this place we came up with the Emperor, who had appointed an interview with the Ayuka-Chan, King of the Kalmucks; the Chan, for that purpofe, had his tents pitched on the eaft banks of the volga, not far from the river. Next day, his Majefty invited the Ayuka-Chan and his Qj^ieen to dinner on board the galley; which, for the accommodation of the royal guefts in getting on board, was brought as near the fhore as poffible, and a gallery made from the fhore to the galley for them to walk on. The Ayuka-Chan came on horfeback, attended by two of the princes his fons, and efcorted by a troop of about fifty of his officers and great men, all exceeding- ly well mounted. About twenty yards from the fhore the King alighted from his horfe, and was received by T t 2 a privy- 33 2 AJOURNEY . 742 a privy- counfellor and an officer of the guards. When, U°/\; the Emperor faw him advancing, he went on more, fa- luted him, and, taking him by the hand, conducted him on board the galley ; where he introduced him to the Emprefs, who was feaced on the quarter-deck, un- der a very rich awning. Soon after the Ayuka-Chan was got on board the galley, the Queen arrived on the fhore, in a covered wheel-machine, attended by one of the princefTes her daughter, and two ladies, who were alfo efcorted by a troop of horfemen. When fhe was alighted, the Em- peror went on more to receive her, and, conducting her on board, introduced her to the Emprefs. The Ayuka-Chan is an old man, about feventy years of age, yet is hearty and chearful. He is a prince of great wifdom, and prudent conduct, is much rcfpected by all his neighbours for his fincerity and plain- dealing. And I recollect, that, when I was at pe- kin, the Emperor of china made very honourable mention of him. By his long experience, he is very well acquainted with the flate of affairs in the eaft. The Queen was about fifty years old, of a decent and chearful deportment; the ladies, her attendants, were young ; the princefs, in particular, hath a fine com- plexion; TO DERBENT, 333 plexion; her hair, a jet-black, which was difpofed in 1722. treffes round her moulders ; and (he was, in the eyes of ^V^ the Kalmucks, a complete beauty. They were all rich- ly dreffed in long robes of Persian brocade, with little round caps, on the upper part of their heads, borde- red with fable- fur, according to the fafhion of the country. The Emperor intimated to the Ayuka-Chan, that he would be defirous of ten thoufand of his troops ta accompany him into Persia. The King of the Kal- mucks replied, that ten thoufand were at the Empe- ror's fervice, but that he thought one half of that num- ber would be more than fufficient to anfwer all his pur- pofes ; and immediately gave orders for five thoufand to march directly, and join the Emperor at terky. Both the Emperor and Emprefs were highly plea- fed with their guefls ; and, in the evening, difmifTed them with fuitable prefents. The Emprefs gave the Queen a gold repeating-watch, fet with diamonds, which feemed very much to take her fancy, beildes fome pieces of brocade, and other filks of value. It is well worth remarking, that this treaty, between two mighty monarchs, was begun, carried on, and con- cluded, in lefs fpace of time than is ufually employed, by 334 AJOURNEY 1722. ty tbfc plenipotentiaries of our weftern European mo* **/VXJ narchs, in taking a dinner. The 22d, we left saratoff, and failed down the river volga, with a fair wind. The 23d, in the evening, we came to the town of kamoshinka, where we remained till the next morn- ing. The 28th, we came to the town of zaritzina; and the 30th, to another town called tzorno-yarr. July 4th, we arrived at the city of astrachan* Little remarkable occurred during the voyage. Wc were fome times detained by contrary winds ; and, for the moft part of the way, were much incommoded by muskitoes, which plagued us much in the day-time, and interrupted our reft during the night. The 5th, the weather being exccflive hot, the Em- peror quitted his houfe in the city, and went to lodge in one of the adjacent vineyards. The 6th, the dragoons, whom we found encamped on the weft bank of the vol ga, to the number of five thoufand, were ordered to march diredtly to terky; there to wait the Emperors arrival. The 8th, the lord high admiral apraxin arrived with the fleet and troops on board. The next day the troops TO DERBENT, 335 troops encamped on one of the iflands in the neigh- 1722. bourhood. O^Y^J During our flay at astrachan nothing of moment occurred. The 1 6th, all the neceflary preparations being com- pleted, the troops re-imbarked, and lay on board that night. The 17 th, the Emperor, Emprefs, and all the court went on board ; and, the wind being fair, failed down the river; drums beating, and mufic playing. The fleet was in feveral divifions, under their refpe&ive chiefs ; and, being joined by a number of large trans- ports, and other veflels, made a very grand appearance; fuch as had never been feen before in this part of the world, nor frequently in any other. The 1 8 th, the wind being contrary, we made but flow progrefs. In the evening it fell calm; all the fhoals being covered with high reeds, contributed to increafe the innumerable quantity of muskitoes, with which we were intollerably peftered. The 19th, we got out of the river volga into the Caspian fea. The wind being contrary, the heavy tranfports were warped out as far as poffible, to get out of the reach of thofe troublefome infects. At night 33*> A J O U R N E Y 1722. night we came to an anchor, in eight feet water, near ^"V^a flat ifland called tuleny-lapata. The 2oth,we continued warping out the whole day. At night we came to an anchor, near the four fandy hillocks called tzateerey-buggory. The 2 1 ft, at break of day, the admiral made fignal for failing ; the fleet got under fail, and put out to fea, with a fair wind. The Emperor, accompanied with the half-gallies, on board which were the troops, fleered to the weft, clofe under the fhore. But I being on board one of the large fhips, we kept the fea, and fleered a direct courfe for terky. It is to be obferved, that the Empe- ror and the gallies took their courfe to avoid being li- able to be furprifed with a gale of wind at fea, which might have been attended with bad confequences. The 2 2d, we came into fait water, four fathoms deep, out of fight of land, and alfo of the gallies. The 23d, we had calms, and eafy breezes at N. W. The 24th, in the evening, wc came to an anchor in the road of terky. The 25th, the Emperor and all the gallies arrived fafe. The 26th, the Emperor went alhorej and, having vifited TO D E RBE N T. fff vifited the town and fortifications, returned on board 1722. in the evening. L/V\J The town of t e r k y is a frontier ftrongly fituated by nature, being encompafled by a deep marfhy ground, having only one entrance to it, on the land-fide, which is well-defended by batteries. It takes its name from a fmall rivulet, running by it, called terk. It is go- verned by a commandant, and hath a garrifon of about one thoufand men, of regular troops and cossacks; and is, at all times, well ftored with ammunition and provifions. This place is of lingular ufe for keeping the tzergassian mountaineers in order, who are well known to be an unruly and reftlefs people. I fhall hereafter have occafion to fpeak more of this nation. The fame day, the Emperor fent an officer to the Aldiggerey, commonly called Shaffkal, to notify his ar- rival in thefe parts. The Shaffkal is a prince of con- fiderable authority among the mountaineers, and a friend to the Russians. The 27th, the fleet weighed anchor, and failed, fouth by eaft, to the bay of agrachan, fo called from a ri- ver of that name. In the evening, we anchored in the bay, as near the more as was judged convenient. The 28 th, the imperial ftandard was fet up on the Vol. II. U u fhore; 338 A JOURNEY 1722. fliore ; all the troops landed and ., encamped. The ^^"^fame day, a cossack arrived in the camp, with dif- patches from General veteranie, who commanded a body of dragoons, giving an- account, that, in his march, he was attacked by a ftrong party of moun- taineers, near the town called andrea; that, after a fmart difpute, in which feveral of each fide had been killed, and fome wounded, he at laft difperfed them, and took poffeilion of the town. Thefe people having previoufly fent all their families and effects to fome diftance into the mountains, it feems this rafh attempt of thefe mountaineers was premeditated, for the gene- ral demanded nothing but a free paflage through the country, and engaged to leave them unmolefted. The place itfelf is of no defence, though they had barrica- doed the ftreets and avenues leading to it. The poor people felt, to their coft, the effects of attacking regu- lar troops, of which they had never feen any before. However, this was a certain proof of the boldnefs of thefe people. Several of them were brought prifoners to the camp •, they were ftrong able-bodied men, fit for any fervice. The Emperor, before he left astrachan, had fenc manifeftos to all the petty princes and chiefs of dagge- stan, TO DEKBENT, 33^ stan, declaring, that he did not come to invade or make 1722. war againft them ; that he only deflred a free paffage ^^V^o through their territories, and would pay ready money for what provifions, or other neceffaries, they might furnifh, and that to the full value; to which fome of them agreed, others of them did not; fuch is often the cafe with free independent ftatcs, as are thofe of the DAGGESTAN. The 29 th and 30th were fpent in landing the pro- vifions, artillery, &c. after which the whole army and baggage were tranfported, on boats and rafes, to the eaft bank of the river agrachan. This proved a work of labour, there being no woods at hand to make a bridge, nor water enough, at the mouth of the river, to admit our half-gallies, which were defigned for the bridge. The army being tranfported over, and encamped on ■the other fide of the river, the Emperor made a plan, and ordered afmall fortrefs to be raifed; he named it agrachan, from the river on which it was built. This place was intended to keep fuch (lores as we could not conveniently carry along with us ; and as a place of retreat in cafe of unforefeen accidents. Auguft 2d, the chief named Aldiggerey came to U u 2 pay 340 . A; JOURNEY 1722. P a y his refpe&s to the Emperor, who gave him a gra- ^V~V>cious reception; as he did to feveral other chiefs, of lefs note, who came in a friendly manner. The Al- diggerey was accompanied by a fmall troop of his prin- cipal officers ; mod of them were handfome young fel- lows, very well mounted. After this chief had ftaid fome hours, and fettled matters relating to the march, he took his leave. In the mean time, the foldiers were employed in railing the works of the fortrefs ; and ten thoufand cossacks arrived from the river don, all horfemen, under command of krasnotzokin and other chiefs^ and alfo the five thoufand Kalmucks, fent by the Ay- uka-Chan, according to agreement, as formerly men- tioned. They were all well mounted, and had many fpare horfes, which were of great ufe. They all en- camped in the plain towards the mountains. The troops being now all arTembled, we only waited for the carriages which the Aldiggerey had engaged to furnifh for the artillery and baggage. During this interval our great leader, the Emperor, was not idle -, but daily on horfeback, reviewing the army, which was now increafed to more than thirty thoufand combatants, including the cossacks and Kalmucks ; a number r O D E R B E NT. 34$ number fufficient to have conquered all Persia, had it 1722. been intended. Befides the army which were then at ^VX^ fembled, the Aldiggerey made a tender to the Empe* ror of a considerable body of his troops, which the Emperor declined the acceptance of. At length about three hundred waggons arrived at the camp, drawn by two oxen each; but, their harnef- fing not being fuch as we were ufed to, we were not a little embarraffed in fetting them a-going. About the middle of Auguft the army was put in motion, and marched, in feveral columns, from agra- chan ; leaving there a force fufficient to complete the works, and garrifon the place. In the evening we en- camped at a brook of brackilh and muddy water. This day our road lay about equal diftance between the fea- and the tzercassian mountains, commonly called DAGGESTAN. Next morning, we decamped, marched along the valley towards the mountains, and, at night, came to another brook of bad water, where was a little wood of oaks, and plenty of grafs, among which I obferved great quantities of a certain herb, called ROMAN-wormwood, which the hungry horfes devoured very greedily. Next day we found above five hundred of our horfes dead in 342 A JOURNEY 1722. i* tt* wood and adjacent fields. In our prefent cir- ^/VX-'cumftances, this was no fmall difafter. The caufe was afcribed to their eating the wormwood, which, per- haps, might be the cafe. We avoided, for the future, as much as poflible, the encamping where large quan- tities of this plant grew. Yet the dead horfes, having been in good cafe, were not entirely loft, as our Kalmucks feafted on them for feveral days. It is to be obferved, that thefe people prefer horfe flefh to beef; and, in all their expediti- ons, their baggage is very compendious, carrying no other provifions than fuch a number of fpare horfes as they think they may want. I was often diverted in fee- ing thefe hardy people, round a fire, broiling and eat- ing their horfe-fteaks, without either bread or fait. The lofs of fo many horfes detained us fome hours later than ufual; but, as both the water and grafs were bad, we decamped, and, at night, <:ame to a fpacious plain oppofite to the town of tarku, -where the Al- diggerey refides. Here we found frefh water, and good pafturage. This place is pleafantly fituated in a hollow between two high hills, riling, like an amphitheatre, to within a fmall diftance of the top ; having a full view of the CASPIAN to derbent: 333 aASpiANfca. The Princes houfc is the uppermoft, X y 2 2. and overlooks the whole town; it confifts of feveral a-V>*"VX^ partments, with a fpacious hall, after the Persian manner, having a terrafs and final 1 garden adjoining. Next morning, the Aldiggerey came and waited on their Majefties, and invited them to dinner; which was^ accepted of. Towards noon, the Princefs, fpoufe to the Aldigge- rey, came and paid her refpe&s to the Emprefs, and gave her Majefty a formal invitation. This lady came in the equipage of the country, that is, in a covered waggon, drawn by a yoke of oxen, with a few footmen to attend her, and efcorted by a fmall party of horfe. The lady, though fomething advanced in years, had ftill the remains of an handfome perfon. She had along with her, in the waggon, a young lady, her daughter, who was fo pretty that fhe would have been deemed a beauty in any part of Europe. When they entered the Emprefs' tent, her Majefty flood up to receive them ; they then took off their vails, and behaved with great decency. They were richly dreffed after the Persian fafhion. After they had drank a diih of coffee, they took leave, and returned to the town. Soon after their departure, the Emperor and Em- prefs 344 A JOURNEY 1722. P re f s went t0 tne town to dine. The Emperor went on v * / " v> ^horfeback, the Emprefs in her coach, attended by fome of the court-ladies, and efcorted by a battalion of the guards. The ftreet was fo narrow, and, near the pa- lace, fo fteep, that the coach and fix horfes could not proceed quite to the palace; which, when her Majefty perceived, fhe alighted from the coach, and walked the reft of the way on foot. The Emperor was much pleafed with the romantic fituation of the place. In the evening they returned to the camp. Auguft 2 2d, the army marched from shaffkal. The day being exceeding hot, no water to be found on the road, together with a continued cloud of duft, to that degree that we could fcarcely know one another, made this day's march very difagreeable and fatiguing to all, more efpecially to the heavy- armed troops, and the cattle. Notwithftanding thefe inconveniencies, the Emperor kept on horfeback the whole day, and took his fhare of whatever happened. At night, we came to fome wells of frefh water, where the army encamp- ed*, but there was hardly water enough for the people to drink, which obliged us to fend the horfes and cattle to a brook at fome diftance, and a ftrong party of TO DERBENT. 345 of cossacks to guard them, leaft the enemy mould at- 1722. tempt to carry them off. v»^v^o The next day, we halted at the wells. The Emperor having received intelligence, that a certain chieftain of the mountaineers, named ussmey, was affembling fome troops in order to harrafs us in our march, which lay through fome hollow grounds; accordingly, towards noon, we perceived a number of horfe and foot, on the tops of the neighbouring hills, about three En- glish miles diftance from the camp; after they had re- connoitred our difpofition for fome time, about one half of them, compofed of horfe and foot, came down into the plain, with intent to drive off fome of our cattle, which brought on a skirmifh between our irre- gular troops and the mountaineers, wherein feveral were wounded, and fome were killed, on each fide. Our people took many of their foot, and of fiich as had been difmounted, prifoners. During the action our in- fantry kept clofe in the camp. The Emperor rode out to the field; he ordered the dragoons to march, and fupport the irregulars ; on their advancing, the e- nemy foon difperfed themfelves, and fled to the hills, where a confiderable number had remained firm on the heights. The carrying off fome cattle is fuppofed Vol. II. X x to 346 AJOURNEY 1722. t0 have been their principal aim, as it would not have v *- / "V~V^been lefs than downright madnefs in them to have ex- pected to gain any advantage by attacking fuch an ar- my of veteran troops, well provided, and well con- dueled. In the mean time, our dragoons and irregulars were in purfuit of the enemy, on the other fide of the firft ridge of hills, and quite out of fight. The Emperor, being apprehenfive of an ambufh, and of a large body of mountaineers being lodged on the other fide of the hills, about three o'clock afternoon, ordered the army to decamp, and march towards the mountains; which was performed in fix columns. The Emperor had hourly intelligence of the proceedings of the dragoons and irregulars, who, at length entirely difperfed the enemy, and had taken pofleffion of the town where the Prince ussmey refided. However, it being then too late to return to our former camp, the army encamp- ed, that night, on a plain between the hills, on the banks of a fmall rivulet, where we had but indifferent quarters, as there was no more time than to fet up the Emperors tent, and a few others. The next day, the army decamped, and marched back to our former camp at the wells ; leaving the dra- goons TO DERBENT, 3,7 goons and irregulars to manage the reft of the bufi- I722 nefs, who made the daggestans, particularly the uss-^-/"V^j mey and his people, pay dear for their rafh attempt of endeavouring to interrupt the march of an army fo far fuperior to any force they could mufter. We ft aid here two days, waiting for the return of our dragoons and irregulars. The 27th, the troops being all re-afTembled, the Emperor decamped, and marched again to the fouth- eaftward, towards derbent, through a dry parched plain. At night, we came to a brook, near the foot of the hills, where we encamped, not having feen any e- nemy that day. The 28th, we marched again; and, paffing a defile, or hollow way, with fome difficulty and delay to the carriages, at night, we came to wells of brackifh water, where we fet up our tents, at no great diftance from the hills, the fea being about a mile from us to the left hand. The 29th, being within a fhort march of the city of derbent, the Emperor halted to give the troops time to put themfelves in order for an entry into the town, as it is the frontier belonging to the Shach of PERSIA. X x 2 Near 348 AJOURNEY 1722. Near our camp there are feveral pits flowing with ^^^^that bituminous liquid called naphtha. The naphtha here is of a blackifh colour, very inflammable ; it is ufed by the Persians to burn in their lamps, and not eafily extinguifhed by rain ; but, as I have formerly fpoken of this kind of petroleum, I do not enlarge on that fubject here. The 30th, the army fet forwards, the Emperor be- ing on horfeback at the head of his troops, which made a fine appearance. At the diftance of about three English miles from derbent, the governor of that place, attended by his officers of diftincHon, and the magiftrates of the town, came, in a body, to wait on the Emperor, and to prefent him with the golden keys of the town and of the citadel; which they did on a cufhion covered with very rich Persian brocade; the o-overnor, and all his attendants, kneeling during this fhort ceremony. The Emperor received thefe gentle- men very gracioufly, and gave them fignal marks of his favour. They accompanied him to the city, where, being arrived, the army halted fome time; during which, guards were placed at the gates, and a garrifon in the citadel; under the command of Colonel yun- cer, T O D E R B E N T. 549 ger, with a fupply of cannon and ammunition, both 1722. which were much wanting in the place. The foregoing being completed, the Emperor, at the head of his army, marched through the city, and encamped among the vineyards, about an English mile to the fouth-eaftward of the town, and about half a mile from the fea-fhore. Soon after which the Emperor, accompanied by all the general officers, returned again to the city, and examined the condition of the fortifications. On this occafion the Persian governor made his Majefty an offer of his houfe, and quarters for as many of the troops as the place could accommodate; but, to avoid putting the inhabitants to any inconveniency, or per- haps for other reafons, the Emperor declined accepting the offer of lodging in the city ; and, at night, return- ed to his camp. In this fituation we continued fome days ; and were making the needful preparations for advancing farther into the country, as foon as the tranfports with provi- fions, ftores, ckc. from astrachan, which were daily expected, fhould arrive. They did arrive in fafety; but a mod unfortunate accident happened; the night following, after their ar- rival, 350 A JOURNEY 1722. rivai > a violent ftorm of wind, from the north eaft, ^W^ drove the greateft part of them afhore, where they were wrecked and dafhed to pieces; but, by good providence, not many lives were loft. This misfortune difconcerted his Majefty's mea- fures, and put a flop to the further progrefs of his arms for the prefent; having nothing before him but a country exhaufted of all neceffariea; and the feafon of the year being too far fpent to wait a frefh fupply from astrachan, the Emperor determined to leave things in the fame ftate they then were in, and to re- turn again to astrachan, by the fame way we came, leaving a garrifon at derbent fufficient to fecure the advantages he had gained. Before I leave derbent I mail endeavour to give a {hort defcription of the place. It is faid to have been fir ft built and fortified, according to the ftyle of the fortifications of that age, by a l ex a n d e r the Great ; though it is not eafy to afcertain that tradition, or the aera of its firft conftruction ; yet, by variety of circum- ftances, it appears to be very ancient. The prefent citadel, walls, and gates feem to be of European architecture, and no mean performance. The citadel ftands on the higheft ground of the city towards TO DERBENT. 351 towards the land-fide. The walls of the city are bulk jy 2 2. of large blocks of fquare ftone, they reach into the fea, ^^W^ beyond which many huge rocks are tumbled into the fea, to prevent any approach, or paflage, on that fide. The haven is now fo choaked up with fand, that there is hardly entry for a fmall boat. D e r b e n t may be called the key to the Persian empire on this fide; and ferves to keep the moun- taineers, and other neighbours, on that fide, in awe. The fituation is very pleafant, rifing gradually from the fea to the top of the hill, commanding a very ex* tenfive profpe£t, efpecially towards the fouth-eaft. A- bout thirty miles due fouth flands one of the highefi: mountains in Persia, called shach-dagh, which is al- ways covered with fnow. To the eaftward of the town are many large vineyards, producing plenty of grapes, of which they make a confiderable quantity of both white and red wine, of ftrength fufficient to preferve it round the year, and longer if required. The people of fubftance there keep their wine in jars, buried under ground, by which method it will keep good for years. They have alfo fruitful plains in the neighbour- hood; and, at fome diftance, is a large foreft of wal- nut-trees, oaks, &c. As this place is a frontier of great impor- 35 2 AJOURNEY I722 importance, the Sophy of per si a always appoints a W^v'Xjperfonpf diftin6tion for its governor. His Majefty having placed a fufficient garrifon in derbent, which he left there under the command of Colonel yunger, upon September the 18th the whole army marched back through the town, keeping the fame route by which we came. Little of moment oc- curred on our march, though we were almoft daily a- larmed by fmall parties of the daggestans, who fre- quently made their appearance on the tops of the hills, but fled always at the approach of our cossacks. As we had feen no rain fince our landing on this coaft, our people fufFered not a little from the great heats, continual clouds of duft, and want of water. On the 29th of September, after a moil fatiguing march, their Majefties and all the army arrived, in fafety, at the fort of agrachan, and found the fleet in the bay where we left them. October the 1 ft, we began to fhip off the baggage, and what artillery, &c. was not wanted at the fort of agrachan; in which place the Emperor left a fuffici- ent garrifon. I ihall now endeavour to give the reader a fliort view cf the country commonly called tzercassia, or dag- GESTAN TO D E R B E N T. 353 gestan by the inhabitants of the country, from dagh> 1-722. which ilgnifies a mountain in their language. The^-^"**^^ country fo called is fituated between the euxine, or black fea, and the Caspian fea; thefe two feas confine it from N. W. to S. E. Southward it reaches to the province of gurgistan, commonly called Georgia. It ftretches northward into a part of the stepp, or de- fert, which lies between asoph and astrachan. The country is divided into feveral free indepen- dent principalities, as kaberda, shaffkal, ussmey, and many others, under their refpective chieftains, who are at firft ele&ed by the people; and though that of- fice is fometimes known to continue in the family of the perfon ele&ed for feveral generations, yet it hath frequently happened, that, either through male admi- niftration, or in confequence of wars among thofe dif- ferent ftates, a chieftain with his family have been de- pofed, or banifhed, and another appointed in his place. It hath alfo been known that the Sophy of Persia hath placed and difplaced fome of thofe princes a- mong the daggestans, who lye the mod contiguous to Persia. Both the Sophy and the ottoman porte lay claim to the fovereignty of daggestan; but, of late years, thefe people, trufting to their own valour Vol. II. Y y and A JOURNEY and the natural ftrength of the country, pay little ro gard to either of thefe mighty monarchs, who fomcr times threaten them, at other times court their friend-* fhip. . The whole extent of the country is hilly, with fome mountains of great heighth; yet, I am informed, they have fruitful vallies, producing corn, vines, and fruits, natural to the climate. Befides a breed of ex- cellent faddle-horfes, they have great (tore of cattle, particularly of fheep, which produce the fined wool I have feen in any part. Whether the famous golden fleece was the produce of thefe parts, or not, I mall leave to others to determine. The men are, for the moil: part, well made, and flout *, many of them are employed in the fervice of the Sophy, and frequently raifed to high flations. The Et- madowlett, or prime minifter, aly-begg, was a native of this country. As to their women, they are efteemed to be the mod beautiful of any in asia, as well for fea- tures and complexion, as alfo for fine fhape; on which account many of thefe poor girls are purchafed, at high rates, or ftolen away, for the ufe of the feraglios at Is- pahan, Constantinople, and other eaftern courts. The religion of the daggestans is generally Maho- metan; TO DERBENT. metan ; fomc following the feet of osman, others that of hal y. Some of thofe people are christi a n s of the eaftern or greek church. Their language, for the mod part, is Turkish, or rather a dialect of the Ara- bic, though many of them fpeak alfo the Persian language. One article I cannot omit concerning their laws of hofpitality, which is, if their greateft enemy comes un- der their roof for protection, the landlord, of what condition focver, is obliged to keep him fafe, from all manner of harm or violence, during his abode with him, and even to conduct him fafely, through his ter- ritories, to a place of fecurity. With which I conclude what I have to fay of the daggestans. On the 5 th of October, his Majefty and the Emprefs went on board their galley, the fleet being ready, and all the troops embarked. Before I quit agrachan, I am defirous of bringing the reader, in fome meafure, acquainted with the cha- racter of the magnanimous commander of this expe- dition, during which I had daily frequent opportuni- ties of feeing that great man peter the Firft ; and, during the whole time, was in company, and conver- fcd, with thofe people who had attended his perfon for Y y 2 very 356 A JOURNEY 1722. ver y m ^ny years ; feveral of whom pofTefTed, in fome de- gree, his favour, and were well-regarded by him-. Therefore, I hope, whac I am about to offer, concern- ing this great monarch, wilL not be unacceptable to the candid reader; whofe taking in good part what I fhall fay, I have fome right to expect; for I mall fay nothing of fact, but what is true; nor any thing, of o- pinion, but what is fincere. Several foreign writers have mifreprefented and tra- duced the real character of peter the Great, by re- lating mean ftories, picked up at alehoufes, and circu- lated among the loweft clafs of people, moft of them without the lead ground of truth ; whereby many people of good underftanding have been milled, and, even to this prefent time, look on him to have been a vicious man, and a cruel tyrant ; than which nothing can be more the reverfe of his true character. Though he might have had fome failings, yet it is well known, to many living at the time of my writing this, which is above thirty- feven years afcer his demife, that his prudence, juftice, and humanity very much over-balanced his failings; which principally, if not folely, arofe from his inclination to the fair fex. I (hall here take the liberty to infert a palTage or two, TO D E R B E N'T. two, which, though trifling, yet as fo great a perfon- age is the fubjeft, will not (I truft) be altogecher un- acceptable or unentertaining to the reader, as they are initances of his affiduity. About the middle of October, 1 7 1 4, I arrived ac cronstadt in an English (hip. The Czar, having notice of the ihip's arrival, came on board, the next morning, from ST. Petersburg ; being attended only by Dr. areskine, who was his chief phyfician at that time, and, on that occafion, ferved him as interpreter. After his Majefty had enquired news about the Swe- dish fleet, &c. he eat a piece of bread and cheefe, and drank a glafs of ale, then went on fhore to vifit the works carrying on at cronstadt; and returned, the fame evening, in his boat, to st. Petersburg, diftance about twenty English miles. The firfh winter after my arrival at st. Petersburg, I lodged at Mr. noy's, an English (hip-builder in the Czar's fervice. One morning, before day-light, my fer- vanc came and told me that the Czar was at the door. I got up, and faw him walking up and down the yard, the weather being feverely cold and frofty, without any one to attend him. Mr. noy foon came, and took him into the parlour, where his Majefty gave him fome pare!- 358 A JOURNEY 1722. particular directions about a fhip then on the flocks; v^-^V^w which having done, he left: him. His Majefty's perfon was graceful, tall, and well- made ; clean, and very plain in his apparel. He gene- rally wore an English drab-colour cloth-frock, never appearing in a drefs-fuit of cloaths, unlefs on great fe- ftivals, and remarkable holidays ; on which occaf ions he was fome times dreffed in laced cloaths, of which fort he was not owner of above three or four fuits. When he was dreffed, he wore the order of st. Andrew ; at other times, he had no badge, or mark, of any order, on his perfon. His equipage was fimple, without at- tendants. In fummer, a four-oared wherry was always attending, to carry him over the river, if he fhould want to crofs it, which he frequently did. When he went about the town, by land, he always made ufe of an open two-wheeled chafe, attended by two foldiers, or grooms, who rode before, and a page, who fome times ftood behind the chafe, and often fat in it with his Majefty, and drove him. In winter, he made ufe of a fledge, drawn by one horfe, with the fame attendants. He found thefe to be the moft expeditious ways of conveyance, and ufed no other. He was abroad every day in the year, unlefs confined at home by illnefs, which T O D E R B E ■ N T. 359 which rarely happened; fo that feldom a day pafled 17 22. but he was feen in almoft every part of the city. v~/V"VJ I have more than once feen him flop, in the ftreets, to receive petitions from perfons who thought them- felves wronged by fentences paffed in courts of judi- cature. On taking the petition, the perfon was told to come next day to the fenate ; where the affair was immediately examined, and determined, if the nature of it would admit its being done in fo fhort a time. It will naturally follow, that fuch free accefs to his per- fon, was not only productive of great relief to many poor widows and orphans, but alfo a flrong check upon judges ; and tended very much to prevent any fort of influence prevailing on them to pronounce unjuft fen- tences, for which they were fo likely to be called to> account. His Majefty might truly be called a man of bufinefs; for he could difpatch more affairs in a morning, than- an houfeful of fenators could do in a month. He rofe almoft every morning in the winter- time, before four o'clock, was often in his cabinet by three o'clock, where two private fecretaries, and certain clerks, paid conftant attendance. He often went fo early to the fenate, as to occafion the fenators being raifed out of then g6o AJOUR'NEY 1722. thci* beds to attend him there. When aflembled, af- ^/WJter hearing caufes between fubjecT: and fubjedt, or pu- blic affairs, regarding the interior of the empire, read by the fecretary, and the opinion of the fenate recited thereupon, he would write upon the procefs, or upon the affair, under deliberation, with his own hand, in a very laconic ftyle, " Let it be according to the decree " of the fenate ;" and fome times would add fome par- ticular alterations, fuch as he thought fit to mention, and under- wrote PETER. His Majefty knew fo little of relaxation of mind when awake, that he never allowed his time of reft to be broke in upon, unlefs in cafe of fire. When any ac- cident of that kind happened, in any part of the town, there was a ftanding order to awake him on its firft appearance; and his Majefty was frequently the firft at the fire, where he always remained, giving the necef- fary orders, till all further danger was over. This ex- ample of paternal regard of the Czar for his fubjecls was, of courfe, followed by all the great officers, and thofe of the firft quality ; which was frequently the means of faving many thoufands of his fubjects from utter ruin, whofe houfes and goods, without fuch lin- gular T O D E R B E N T. 3 6l gular afliftance, muft have fhared the fate of their ruin- 1-722. ed neighbours. V/W In acts of religion he appeared devout, but not fu- perftitious. I have feen him at his publick devotions in church many times. I have been prefent, when his Majefty, not liking the clerk's manner of reading the pfalms, hath taken the book from the clerk, and hath read them himfelf ; which he did very diftinctly, and with proper emphafis. His Majefty was allowed, by the beft judges of the sclavonian and Russian lan- guages, to be as great a mafter of them, as any the moft learned of his fubjects, whether churchmen or laics. He wrote a very good hand, very expeditioufly, yet the characters diftinct enough ; of this I myfelf am fome judge, having feen many of his letters, all wrote with his own hand, to Mr. henry stiles, and others. As to his ftyle, fome of his fecretaries, and other com- petent judges of the language, affirmed, that they had never known any man who wrote more correctly, or could comprife the fenfe and meaning of what he wrote in fo few words, as his Majefty. The following I had from a certain russ gentle- man, of very good family, and who was a general of- ficer of unexceptionable character in the army, who Vol. II. Z z had $6l A JOURNEY 172 2. h*d attended his Majefty, from his very youth, in all ^"VX^his expeditions. This officer being an old friend of mine, I went to pay him a vifit one evening, long af- ter the death of peter the great; when he told me, that fuch and fuch old officers, naming them, had din- ed with him that day, and that the principal fubjecT; of their converfation turned on the a&ions of their old father, (as he termed him, by way of eminence,) peter the great. He told me further, that though his Majefty feemed to be fevere, on certain occasions, yet not one of them all could produce or recoiled: one fingle inftance of his having punifhed an honeit man; or, that he had caufed any perfon to furTer any punifh- ment who had not well deferved it. He hach been reprefented as making too frequent life of fpirituous liquors to excefs, which is an unme- rited afperfion; for he had an averfion to all fots, and to thofe too much given to drink. It is true, he had his rimes of diverfion, when he would be merry him- felf, and liked to fee others fo; this may have been ne- ceiTary, and proper for the unbending his mind from affairs of great weight; but fuch amufements occurred generally during holidays, and feflival times, and was, with him, at no time of long continuance. It hath been TO D E R B E N 'T. 36$ been imputed to him, and not without fome appear- 1722. ance of reafon, that he had political views in encou- ^/^Xi raging drinking at thefe times of merriment; for, on thefe occafions, he mixed with the company, and, con- verting with them on the footing of a companion, had better opportunities, at fuch times, of difcovering the real fentiments of thofe about him, than when they were quite cool. Thofe, who by their offices about the perfon of pe- ter the great, might be fuppofed to be the beft ac- quainted with his difpofition, always difa vowed his drinking to excefs; and infifted on his being a fober Prince. I can aver, that, during the campaign of the expedition to derbent in Persia, he was not once guil- ty of the leaft excefs; but rather lived abftemioufly. In this point I could not be miftaken, as the tent of dr. blUxMentrost, his Majefty's chief phyfician, with whom I lodged, was always the nearefl: tent to that of his Majefty. I fhall give one inftance in proof of what I have advanced, concerning the temperance of this great man, viz. In our third day's-march, on our return from derbent, we were kept in continual alarm by conliderable bodies of mountaineers, both horfe and Z Z 2 f00t ; 364 A JOURNEY 1722. f 00 ^ whom we faw hovering on the tops of the adja- cent hills; though they dared not to come down to the plain, to attack any part of our army, yet it was ne- ceffary to be watchful of them ; which, in fome mea- fure, impeded our march. The evening of that day, we had a hollow way to pafs, which took up much time, and obliged the greateft part of the army to re- main there all night; fo that none reached the camp, except the guards, and fome light horfe who attended their Majefties. On my arrival there, about midnight, I found only his Majefty's tent fet up, and another fmall one for Mr. f el ton, the Czar's principal cook, and mafter of his kitchen. I went into felton's tent, and found him all alone, with a large fauce-pan of warm grout before him, made of buckwheat with butter; which, he told me, was the remains of their Majefties fupper, who eat of nothing elfe that even- ing; and who were juft gone to bed. During the whole march, his Majefty, for the mod part, rode an English pad, about fourteen hands high; for which he had a particular liking, as it was very tractable and eafy to mount. His picture is drawn by car a vac on this horfe. He did not wear boots, as he very often walked on foot. In the heat of the day, when TO DERBENT. 365 when the army halted, he ufed to go into the Em- 1-722. prefs' coach, and deep for half an hour. His drefs,^^^ ^ during the march, was a white night-cap, with a plain? flapped hat over it, and a fhort dimitcy waiftcoat. When at any time he received meflengers, from the chieftains of the mountaineers, he put on his regimen- tals, as an officer of the guards, being lieutenant co- lonel of the preobrashensky regiment. During the whole courfe of his life, his Majefty a<- voided all forts of ceremony, except on publick occa* fions. His manner of living, in his houfe, was more like that of a private gentleman, than of fo great a monarch. I was once at court on a holiday, when the Emperor came home from church to dinner, with a large attendance of his minifters, general officers, and other great men. His table was laid with about fifteen, covers. As foon as dinner was ferved up, he and the Emprefs took their places; and his Majefty, addreffing himfelf to the company, faid, Gentlemen, pleafe to take your places as far as the table will hold, the reft will go home and dine with their wives. On fuch occafions, the princefles, his children, din- ed in another room, to whom he fent fuch difhes, from his own table, as he thought proper, for their dinner. This 366 A JOURNEY 1722. This great monarch took all the pains, and ufed aH v ^ r V*N^>the means poffible, in order to be intimately acquaint- ed with every thing proper for a man, who ruled a mighty empire, to know. He entered into the detail of every branch of the arts ufeful to mankind; into that of all the manufactures which regarded the con- ftruction of fhips, and fitting them for the fea; into that of the making of arms, artillery, &c. If he had a ruling paflion for any one part of thefe acquirements, it rnuft have been for fhip-building; into which he en- tered himfelf very early, in the quality of a common workman, with his hatchet, and proceeded regular- ly through all the degrees, to the rank of mafter- builder, which he attained but a few years before his death. After he got that length in the art, he made the draughts, formed the mouldings, and directed the building of feveral men of war, of the fecond and third rates, himfelf; and he duely demanded, and received his falary as a mailer- builder. The day of launching the fhips, which he himfelf built, he celebrated as a holiday, and put on laced clothes; but before he went to work, to ftrike away the ftanchions, blocks, &c. he always put off his fine coat. He was very frugal in what regarded his perfonal cxpences, TO D E R B E NT. f^y- cxpences, and thofc of his houfhold. Notwithstanding I72 2. his frugality, in what related to himfelf, he fpared no^^^"^ coft, in whatever concerned the publick, in the Struc- ture of his men of war, in the artillery, fortifications, arfenals, canals, &c. all which bore marks of very great magnificence. Nor was he fparing in his buildings, and the decorations of his gardens with ftatues, grot- tos, fountains, &c. of which the buildings of the furn> mer-palace, and the gardens at st. Petersburg, at PETERHOFE, STREALNA, CZARSKY SEALO, and many O- thers, are fufficient proofs. I (hall not detain the reader longer, on the fubjecl: of this very great mans character, or way of living, than to acquaint him, that, as his Majefty was very early up in the morning, he went abroad generally without breakfaft; came home to dinner about eleven of the clock; after dinner, went to fleep for about an hour; after which, if bufinefs did not intervene, he fometimes diverted himfelf at his turnine loom ; then went to vifit thofe he had a regard for, as well foreigners as Russians, with whom he would be very fociable, and eafy in converfation. He fometimes fupped with them; which, generally in his latter days, was on hare or wild-fowl, roafted very dry, drank fmall beer, and fometimes a few glaiTes of wine; and 368 A JOURNEY 1722. an( ^ generally was in bed before ten of the clock at \*S*V~\J night. He neither played at cards, dice, or any game of chance. The reader will pleafe to take along with him the following obfervation, viz. That this monarch was at no time, even during mafquerades, feaftings, aflem- blies, and all other diverfions or amufements, by day or night, without the attendance of fome or other of his minifters, and of thofe who poflefled his confi- dence; by which means bufinefs, and fuch affairs as were of the greateft confequence, went on regularly; and fome of them even concerted during thofe times of relaxation. I now return to the 5th of October, 1722; at which time, the Emperor and Emprefs being embark- ed on board their galley, and the whole fleet being ready, and the wind fair, we weighed anchor, and got under fail, from the bay of agrachan, for astrachan, at which place we arrived on the 14th of the fame month, little material happening in the pafTage, only fome rough gales of contrary wind. Having finifhed what I had to do at astrachan, I joined company with simon gregoritz narishkin, one of his Majefty's General- adjutants, and Commodore gosslar, TO DERBENT. 369 cross l ar, who always commanded the fliip in which his 1722. Majefty hoifted his flag, when he went to fea; and with ,v - / V" > o' thofe two gentlemen returned to mosco. Accordingly, we fet out from astrachan in a fmall fhallop, and came, by water, to the town of zaritzi- na. The winter approaching, we got fuch carriages as the place afforded, and continued our journey, a- long the lines, to the river don ; thefe lines are drawn from the volga to the don, being a deep ditch, about thirty feet broad, pallifadoed on the top, with high wooden towers, at certain diftances, in fight of each other, well guarded. They effectually anfwer the end propofed, by his Majefty, in erecting them, and mak- ing the ditch; which was for the preventing of incur- fions from the cub an tartars. The 25th of November we arrived in mosco; at which place his Majefty and the Emprefs arrived about the middle of December, 1722. Vol. II. A a a The 37P Stages between Mpsco and astjlachan. The following are the pofl flages, and diftances, be- tween mosco and astrachan. Verfts. From Mofco to the village of Oflroffsach 2 5 Ulianinin Sealo 38 Town of Kolumna 3 2 of Zaraysky 39 Prudach Sealo 37 Pod Offinka 35 Bogoyavlenska 35 Gorlovy 2 5 Town of Skopina 3° Town of Reasky 40 Village of Blagoy 37 Oloviach 35 Town of Kozloff V- Retzky Yaroflafky 2 5 Lyffiach-Gorach Sealo 22 Town of TambofF 22 Kufminoy Catty Sealo 2 1 To be carried over ^0 Stages between mosco and astrAchan. 37^ Vcrfts. Brought over 530 From to Retzky-Tziny *f PanofFskich Kufstack 24 Retzky-Savally 20 Retzky-Shinkofly 20 Retzky-Tagaiky 26 Retzky-Tavolfhanky 20 Chaperskoy Krepoft 22 Michailofsky Gorodky 27 Yuripinsky Stanu 17 Tepinsky-Yurtu 20 Pravotorskoy-Yurtu 20 Kalinofsky Kuftiky 2 4 Zatofsky-Yurtu 21 Kulmifhkom-Yurtu 24 Uft-Chaperskoy Koluditz 21 Rofsleeve 12 Uft-Medvedesky l 3 Kletzkoy-Tzaganock 18 Klementsky Scantzy 2 3 Novo Gregoriofsky 20 Siropensky Scantzy 23 To be carried over 972 A a a 2 37 2 Stages between mosco and astrachan. Verfts. Brought over 972 From Retzky-Sokary 3 a to Gratfefsky Stantzy 1 2 Town of Zaritina 28 Reka-Actuba 26 Tzareofa-Puda 3 1 Urotzifha-Tzareva 3 o Tayunley 26 Kulava 30 Afblagatay 3 o Sakuley 30 Okoreba 25 Befstzara 26 Kravala - 30 Achfarava 27 Reka-Bolfhoy Bereketa 20 Aftrachan 39 The diftance from mosco to astraO 1 n 1 , , > 14 12 chan, the poll- road, by land - - - $ AN A N ACCOUNT F M Y JOURNEY FROM S T PETERSBURG T O CONSTANTINOPLE, AND THENCE BACK TO St. PETERSBURG, IN PART OF THE YEARS M.DCC.XXXVII. AND M.DCC.XXXVUI. UNDERTAKEN AT THE INSTANCES OF COUNT O S T E R M A N, CHANCELLOR OF RUSSIA, AND OF Mr. R O N D E A U, MINISTER FROM GREAT BRITAIN AT THE COURT OF ST. PETERSBURG. AN ACCOUNT Y. O F M Y JOURNEY 375 *737- T O CONSTANTINOPLE. A WAR having broken out, in 1734, between Rus- sia and turkey, which had been carried on with great fuccefs on the part of Russia, by their taking from the turks the ftrongly fortified cities of asoph, qtzakqff, together with the perecop, and other places of the frontiers of great importance, the Em- peror of Germany, through various connections, came, fome time after its commencement, to be engaged in it. In the autumn of 1 737 a congrefs was appointed to be held at nemiroff, a town on the frontiers of Po- land, in order to accommodate and determine all dif- ferences, between the belligerent powers, by the medi- ation of the minifters of great Britain, France, and the States of Holland, then refiding at the ottom.a h porte^ 376 A JOURNEY iyjn porte, who were Sir everard fawkner, the Marquis ^-/V^de vtlle-neuve, and Mr. kalkune. But, before thefe minifters could reach nemiroff, the plenipoten- tiaries of the powers at war differed fo widely, in their refpective demands, that the congrefs broke up without effect. The court of Russia determining to fend a perfon to Constantinople, with new propofals of accommo- * dation, and as no fubjects of Russia or Germany are admitted into the dominions of the Grand Seignor, whilft he is at war with thofe powers, I was prevailed upon to undertake the journey, at the earned: defires of Count osterman, the chancellor of Russia, and of Mr. rondeau, at that time his britannic Majeftys minifter at the court of st. Petersburg. On the 6th of December, 1737, I fet out from st. Petersburg, with only onefervant, who underftood the Turkish language. Having, in a former journey, taken notice of the places on the road between st. Pe- tersburg and mosco, I wave the repeating them. The 9th, I arrived at the city of mosco; which had greatly fufFered, the preceding fummer, by a dreadful conflagration. As I purpofe, at the end of my jour- ney, to give an account of the llages and diftances, I fhall TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 377 fliall here only mention the time, and chief places 1757. through which I pafs. The 1 1 th, I left mosco, early in the morning, and proceeded to the fouth-weft: towards kioff. The 1 2th, in the night, I came to Kaluga, a large and populous town, fituated on the banks of the river ocka, inhabited by feveral fubftantial merchants, very confiderable dealers in hemp, pot- am, wax, &c. The 15th, I got to siesky, another town, which is reckoned to be at about equal diftance from mosco, and from kioff, and is the laft town in great Russia, bordering on the Russian ukrain. At night I reach- ed glukova, the firit town in the ukrain, a large and populous place; where having changed horfes, I pro- ceeded thence the fame night to another town called KOROLEVITZ. The 16th, I paffed through batturin, a large rambling town, formerly the refidence of the Hetman mazeppa; it ftands on rifing hills upon the river semm. The country adjacent is very pleafant, and exceeding fruitful, being moftly plain, interfperfed with woods of oak, and other timber. The place is almoft en- compaffed with cherry and other fruit trees. What is remarkable, and demonstrative of the great fertility Vol. II. B b b of 578 AJOURNEY J727. °f tne foil, is, that they have about fixty water-mills, v ~ / "V^for grinding corn, all built within the diftance of two English miles. At night, I got to neshin, another confiderable town. At this place, for want of fhow on the ground, I was obliged to leave my convenient fledge, and ride all the reft of the way on horfeback. This detained me much longer on the road than I fhould have been, if I could have proceeded in my fledge. The 18th, I pafTcd the borysthenes in a boat; and, in the evening, arrived at kioff, fituated on the weft bank of the borysthenes, now called Dnieper. This famous river takes ics rife on the borders of Poland, near the city of smolensko, and, after a long courfe pointing to the fouth, difcharges itfelf into the black. fca, near otzakoff. The city of kioff ftands on a high hill, and over- looks the river, and a fpacious plain to the eaftward, as far as your eye can reach. To the weftward, the country is hilly; and many of the hills are covered with woods. There are feveral vine- yards about the town, which produce good grapes for the table. This place is adorned with many magnificent church- es ; and is famous for being the repofitory of faints, and holy TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 379 holy men of the greek church, whofe (brines are vifi- 1727, ted by devout perfons from diftant places. Befides, ^"VNJ they have an univerflty at k i o f f, of considerable re- pute in thefe parts. I cannot but obfervc here, that this part of the country, commonly called the ukrain, (though it is fometimes called little Russia,) doth, for fertility of foil and rich pafturage, exceed molt parts of Europe ; producing vaft quantities of various forts of grain, the crops of which are always very great, as well as of hemp and flax, of the moft excellent quality, and that with little labour; for they plow the ground with one horfe only, and with but one man, who holds the plow and drives the horfe at the fame time. The uk rain produces good horfes for the faddle, and large fized black- cattle, in very great numbers, more than fulEcient for their own ufe, and for fupply- ino; their neighbours, with as o;ood beef as the world affords. The woods are well ftored with game of di- verfe forts ; as are the rivers and ponds with rim. Afpa- ragus, which in other pares requires cultivation, grows naturally, in fuch plenty, in the ukrain, as to be term- ed a weed. The people are very civil and hofpitable among themfelves, and alfo to all ftrangers, living very B b b 2 clean 380 AJOURNEY 1 j 17, clean and neat in their houfes. I now refume my journey. At kioff I met with my worthy friends General romanzoff and the privy counfellor Mr. neptuof, who gave me all the afTiftance and difpatch I could defire. They ordered a lieutenant, and a troop of cof- facks to efcort me through Poland, to the confines of MOLDAVIA. On the 20th, I fet out from kioff; and at night came to the frontier town, called vassilkoff, which ftands on the declivity of a hill, and is the laft town belonging to Russia in that part. The place is but fmall, though well fortified, and provided with a ftrong garrifon, &c. The 21ft, early in the morning, I left vassilkoff, accompanied by my trufty cofTacks; and, after riding about an hour, I came to the borders of Poland, where is an out-poft, and a ftrong guard of Russian foldiers. This place is called the zastave, very ne- ceffary in time of war. The territory of Poland is divided here, from that of russia, by a deep ditch drawn a-crofs the middle of a fpacious plain. From the zastave I continued my journey, in a ftrong froft, which made the road very rough ; and keeping TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 381 keeping to the fouthward, along the fame plain, I faw 1737. neither houfe nor tree, till I came to belozerkoff, the^"^^ firft town appertaining to Poland in this part. The gates being fhut, before my arrival, it was fometime before I could be admitted. However, at length, the gates were opened; I took up my quarters at a publick houfe belonging to a jew. The fame evening I wait- ed on Mr. bechersky, the governor, and defired he would give me a paflport. He treated me with great civility, and ordered the paflport to be ready againfl the next morning. The 2 2d, by the excefs of the governors hofpitali- ty, I was detained till the evening, waiting for his ex- cellency's paflport; which was abfolutely neceflary, and proved of great ufe to me on the road. The town of belozerkoff, fo called from a white church there, is a pretty large place, and is fortified. It (lands in a pleafant plain. The inhabitants are, for the moft part, poles, mixed with not a few jews, who keep publick houfes; and are generally farmers of che revenues all over Poland. There is fcarce a village without fome jews, who keep inns, for lodging and entertaining paflengers. In the evening, I took my leave of the kind gover- nor, 382 A JOURNEY j _ ^ - nor, who, after treating me with great politenefs, gave ^v^me a guide to the next village, called shamaryafka, about two polish miles diftant from belozerkoff, where I lodged that night. The 23d, early in the morning, I left this village, in a ftrong froft, without any fnow; and, after paffing a few draggling villages, at night, I came to golo- quast; where I took up my lodgings at a jew's houfe* It is to be obferved, that the country is moftly plain, with fome rifing grounds, interfperfed with woods of oak, afh, and elm, and other forts of timber, but chief- ly of oak; is very pleafant and fruitful, but thinly in- habited ; which muft proceed from their being expofed to the incurfions of the tartars and haydamacks, who, at times, make cruel inroads into thefe parts. The hayd a m a c k s were, the foregoing winter, at this place, with a body of five or fix hundred horfe, where they committed many diforders; after which, and after having tortured all the jews they could light upon, to oblige them to difcover their money, they marched off with their booty, before the polish troops could be affembled to oppofe them. I was well informed, by people who knew fomething of thefe lawlefs banditti, who are called haydamacks by TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 383 by the poles, and zapourosky cossacks by the rus- 1707. sians, that they are a parcel of vagabonds, compofed of idle fellows of different nations, who, having fled from juftice, find a fafe retreat among this crew. They are, for feveral reafons, protected by the turks, who lay claim to the iflands, and places adjacent, on the river Dnieper, where they inhabit; and have fortified themfelves fo ftrongly as not eafily to be attacked ; nor can they be attacked without danger of breaking peace with the turk. They profefs the christian religion; but have no wives nor any women among them; having erected themfelves into a wild kind of military order, if it may be fo called. Every perfon, who is defirous of enter- ing into this community, is obliged to ferve a certain number of years, before he is admitted into the bro- therhood. The grand mafler is called Cafha-var, which fignifies chief cook, who is chofen from among the fra- ternity, for his conduct and courage. I think I need not enlarge on the fubject of fuch a worchlefs fociety. The 24th, I left goloquast, and came, towards noon, to a fmall town, called pogrebisha, where I halted. The people, at firft fight, taking my cossacks for ha yd a macks, fhut the gates, and alarmed the place 384 A JOURNEY j _ ~ - place. My paflport foon convinced them of their er- ^^^^ror. After a fhort ftay, I proceeded again on my jour- ney. At night I reached a fmall village, named otze- redno, where I lodged. The 25th, leaving otzeredno, I got to vitofftzy, another village, where I lay that night. The 26th, I arrived at nemiroff, where the late congrefs was held, as I have mentioned above. This town is pretty large and populous, well fortified and garrifoned. The governor is General russotsky, who hath Colonel wangenheim, and feveral other german officers under him. The country about nemiroff is very pleafant and fruitful; having many orchards in the neighbourhood, which produce the largefl apples and pears, that I have feen any where. They have alfo plenty of grapes, ve- ry good for the table. The 27th, about noon, I fet out again on my jour- ney. I got that night to the village petzory, where I remained that night. The 28th, I halted at spikoff; travelled thence to lefkovitz, a large village, where I paiTed the night. The 29th, I halted at tamaz-poly, and lodged at KLEIMBOFKA. The TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 385 The 30th, I arrived at tzikanofka, the laft place 1708. belonging to Poland on that frontier. It is a large firaggling village, fituate on the eaft bank of the river ister, now called Dniester, and is the boundary be- tween Poland and moravia. On the oppofite fhore (lands the town of soroka, the firft in the principality of Moldavia, now annexed to the Turkish dominions. The fame evening, I fent my man to soroka, to ac- quaint the commandant or Perkulab, as they are cal- led, of my arrival. Next morning, the ift of January, 1738, the com- mandant of soroka, whofe name is petroky, a greek, came over upon the ice to vifit me, and told me that he was very forry he could not let me pafs without a fpecial order from the Prince of Moldavia, who re- fides at y a s s y, to whom he would immediately dif- patch an exprefs for that purpofe; and hoped I would wait patiently for an anfwer. In the evening Mr. pe- troky paid me another vifit; he mowed me much ci- vility, and brought me a prefent of wine, fruits, &c. which was very acceptable in a place where little was to be got for money. January 2d, Mr. petroky acquainted me, that his exprefs was returned, with orders, from the Prince, to Vol. II, C c c fuiniih 386 A JOURNEY 1738. furaifh m e with horfes, and a proper convoy, to yassy. ^/V\j Having no more occafion for the cossacks, I fent them back again to kioff; but Mr. noroff, the lieu- tenant, was permitted to accompany me to yassy. This gentleman is an officer of a marching regiment. The cossacks had their own officer befides. Soroka is but a fmall town, pleafantly fituated on the weft bank of the river, about thirty leagues fouth- eaft from chotyn, and the fame diftance north-weft from bender. The place is inhabited chiefly by Mol- davians, mixed with a few greeks, jews, and turks. It is defended by an old tower, in which are fome can- non of little ufe. The channel of the Dniester runs deep there, between two high green banks. The coun- try adjacent is fruitful in grain, and abounds in very rich pafturage. The 2d, early in the morning, I left tzikanofka, and paffed the river, on the ice, to s o r o k a ; where, the horfes being ready, I took leave of the comman- dant Mr. petroky, and proceeded on my journey. To- wards noon I halted at a large village called kaynar. The preceding fummer many of the inhabitants of this place were carried off by the plague ; but it was now, by the rigour of the feafon, much abated. As foon as the TO CONSTANTINOPLE. jS 7 the horfes were changed, we left kaynar; and, after 1758. travelling over a very fine country, came, at night, to ^VX/ another large village, called meygura, where we lay. The 3d, I left meygura. After parting the river p r u t h, I arrived, in the evening, at y a s s y, where I found good and warm quarters. Next morning, being the 4th, I was conducted to the palace, and waited on the Prince, who is alfo fly led Hofpodar of Moldavia. He takes the title of Serene Highnefs, though he is only promoted to that dignity by the Sultan, or rather by the Grand Vifier, and holds it only during pleafure; being trufled with- no o- ther power than the adminiftration of civil affairs ; his name is Gregory ducas; of a reputable Grecian fami- ly; he enjoys a general good character. This gentleman treated me with great civility and politenefs, regreted that it was not in his power to allow of my going di- rectly to Constantinople; and that I muft go to ben- der firft, where I fhould find the Seraskier, who had the chief command in thefe parts. I was not willing to go fo far out of my road ; but, as there was no remedy, I complied. The Prince ordered a bosniac captain, and two Moldavian foldiers of his guards, to efcort C c c 2 me 3 88 A JOURNEY 1728. me t0 bender; which was all he could do for me in ^/^V>^the prefent jun&ure of affairs. From soroka to yassy the country is fomewhat hilly, the foil rich, the pafturage excellent. About the river pruth are fine woods of various forts of timber natural to the climate. About yassy, and in other parts, there are large vineyards, producing grapes in great abundance, whereof are made confiderable quan- tities of wine, of inferior quality, the greateft part of which is confumed in Poland, and other parts adjar cent, for which the Moldavians receive confiderable fums in ready money. The city of yassy ftands in a fpacious plain, on the rivulet called bachluy, about thirty-five leagues, to- wards the north- weft, from bender; it may contain between two and three thoufand houfes, moftly built of wood. The inhabitants are christians of the greek church. The Prince's palace is an ancient pile of Gothic building, of ftone and brick ; it hath the appearance of a venerable old caftle, for which, I fuppofe, it was intended, as this unhappy country hath been, at all times, expofed to the ravages of barbarous nations. The 5 th, having taken leave of my companion, Mr. TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 389 Mr. noroff, who returned back to kioff, I fet out 1738. from yassy, accompanied by my bosniac captain, the^^"^ two Moldavians, and my own fervant. We came, at night, to a village called voltzinitz, about ten leagues fouth-eaft from yassy, ftanding in a fruitful valley, where we took up our quarters. The 6th, we left this village in the morning ; and came, at night, to kishanoff, another village, where we lodged. The 7th, we left kishanoff. On the road we met with many troops of tartars, going to the eaftward, on an expedition, notwithstanding the weather was fe=- verely cold, with ftrong frofts. Thefe hardy people accompanied me all the reft of the way to bender, where we arrived in the evening. The country from yassy to kishanoff is very fine; but towards bender, it grows more dry and barren, and doth not appear of fo good foil, nor to have fo good pafturagc as the countries which I had pafTed through. The Moldavians are all christians, and the Sultan indulges them with a governor, or prince, of their own religion. This privilege they have enjoyed for many years, which may be efteemed no fmali favour under fuck 390 A J O U R N E Y 1758. fuch an iron government as is that of the turks. Yet it ^V'^may be obferved, that their yoke is much eafier, and their manners much more humanized, than at their firft entrance and fettlement in Europe; though I am perfuaded that two-thirds of Moldavia lies wafle at this time. It feems to have been an eftablifhed fyf- tem in Turkish politics to depopulate all the countries bordering on Christendom, referving no more than may be fufficient to furnilh their garrifons and troops with provifions. As the plague had raged all the preceding year in the town of bender, and had almoft depopulated the place ; about a mile fliort of the town, we turned off the road, to the right hand, towards the Turkish camp, where the Seraskier, or general in chief, lay in the field, with all his army about him. The general's quarters were ftrongly fortified, with a deep ditch pal- lifadoed and mounted with cannon; but the troops were lodged in cells under ground, laid over with flicks and earth, having a hole at the top to let out the fmoke, fenced with a dry hedge about it. In this miferable condition thefe poor people pafTed the winter. I and my bosniac captain were conducted to one of thefe holes, which, at night, was crowded with Turkish of- ficers TO CONSTANTINOPLE. jjn fleers of diftinc*tion. Such miferies, and many more, 1778. are the frequent attendants on deftru&ive war. The ^^VNJ Seraskier's name is gengy aly bash a, or Young Aly Bafha, though he is now about feventy years of age, and hath the character of a brave and active general. The 8 th, the Seraskier fent his fecretary to me, who asked me feveral queftions relating to my journey, and hoped that necefllty would be admitted as an excufe for the badnefs of my quarters. In the evening the fecretary came again, when he told me, that in two or three days their feaft of Bayram would be over, and then I mould proceed on my journey to Constanti- nople, with a proper convoy. In the mean time, he ordered an officer to furnifh me with fuch necefTaries as the place afforded. In this no agreeable fltuation I was obliged to wait till the feaft was over, being five long nights, all the while confined within the precincts of my hut. One alleviation was, the company of my bosniac captain, who tarried with me the whole time. The 1 2 th, in the morning, the fecretary came and acquainted me, that the Seraskier had ordered a Chi- vadar, or officer, belonging to the Grand Vifier, and two tartars, to efcort me to Constantinople; at the 39 2 AJOURNEY I7 g the fame time he told me that I might depart when I O^y^^pleafed. This welcome news was very agreeable, for I had been little better than a prifoner from the time of my arrival at the camp; though, I muff own, they were very civil, and made me as eafy as the accommo- dations, and the circumftances of affairs, would ad- mit of. I could only fee bender at a diftance. But it is well known to be a place of importance, being flrongly and regularly fortified, with out-works in proportion. It flands in a plain, near the river Dniester, and is fre- quently mentioned, in the annals of late times, for be- ing the place of refuge of that intrepid, inconfiderate monarch, charles the Twelfth of Sweden, after the Russians had beat him out of the field at poltova, in the year 1709. Notwithftanding the contagious diftemper was not entirely ceafed at bender, we had our daily provifions from that place. As foon as the horfes were ready, I mounted, and left this plaguy camp, which is fo in a literal, as well as in an allegorical fenfe. Although our horfes were in exceeding bad cafe, from the fatigues of the laft campaign, and from the want of due accommodations, of TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 393 of melter, &c. during the fevere weather that followed ; j 7 ? 8. yet we made a fhift to come, in the evening, to a large v^v^w rambling town, called kaushan, inhabited by bud jack tartars. It ftands fouth-weft from bender. Here I had good quarters ; the people were friendly and ho- fpi table. At fupper I fat by an old tartar, who feem- ed to be a perfon of diitinclion among them. This old gentleman asked me many queftions about Europe, through an interpreter, particularly about the illuftri- ous family of lorrain, which furprifed me not a little. The firft dim that came before us was pilaw made of barley; then he told me in French, that it was not drefTed after the French fafhion. This brought on a converfation between us in that language, which he fpoke well, in which he informed me, that, in his youth, being with the Turkish army in Hungary, he was tak- en prifoner by the Duke of lorrain, who then com- manded the imperial army. His highnefs took him into his fervice, in which he lived many years; and, af- ter treating him with great humanity, at laft gave him his freedom, with liberty to return into his own coun- try; which extraordinary favour he acknowledged with great refpec"t and gratitude. The 1 3th, having got frefh horfes, I left kaushan, Vol. II. D d d and 394 A JOURNEY 1728. an d travelled to the weftward, towards the Danube, V^W leaving the rifing grounds, and came along the plain, called the flepp of budjack, which is flat, dry, barren, and uncultivated; yet there is fome good pafture, efpe- cially for fheep, of which the Turkish army have left few remaining. At night, we came to kongly, where are about a dozen (haggling cottages, inhabited by tartars. We made our quarters that night in the corner of a large (hed, along with our horfes. The 1 4th, as there was nothing tempting to detain us at kongly, we fet forwards, very early in the morn- ing; and proceeded along the fame barren plain, with- out feeing houfe or tree all that day. In the evening, we came to a tartar village, called tartar- kew, where we were tolerably well lodged and entertained. The 1 5th, we left tartar-kew; and came, in the evening, to the town of ism ay l, {landing on the north bank of the famous river Danube, called dun ay in thefe pares. The place is very pleafant, within fight of the black fea. The inhabitants are chiefly turks. 1 lere I was well lodged, and had good bread and wine. The river here is very broad, and divided into fe- veral branches, by iflands, confidcrably large; though, when the river falls into the black fea, all the branch- es TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 395 es are united, and form but one mouth at its en- 1758. trance into that fea. The north bank confifts of rif- ing grounds; the fouth is fenced with high hills. I think the Danube, at this place, may be compared with the volga at astrachan, both for breadth and quantity of water. By what I could obferve, all the great rivers, from the volga to this place, have, for the mod part, high lands for their weftern banks, and low flat lands to the eaftward. The 1 6th, we pafTed the north branch of the Da- nube in a boat, to the next ifland; but the other branches being faft frozen over, we mounted, and rode and walked by turns, the reft of the way, upon the ice; which was in many places very rough and uneven, with great ridges, confiding of pieces of ice driven together, and heaped upon one another, by ftrong eafterly winds, and the rapidity of the current. Some of the ridges of ice were at leaft feven or eight feet high; which o- bliged us to walk on foot moft part of the way. How- ever, in the evening, we arrived fafely at a town called tultzin, (landing on the fouth bank of the river, four leagues from is may l, where we had quarters, and o- ther means of refrefhment. Tultzin is the firfl: town in the ancient kingdom D d d 2 of 3$>6 A J O U R N E Y 1738. of thrace, now reduced to a Turkish province, known by the name of Bulgaria. The Bulgarians, who are christians of the greek church, live, for the mofl part, in villages ; the towns, in general, being inhabited by the turks. This place hath an old abandoned caftle, feemingly of European conftruction; and, as it itands among hills, on the banks of the river, the fi- tuation is very pleafant. The 17th, we left tultzin in the morning; towards noon we arrived at a large town, called babbadach, {landing in a delightful valley, environed by hills. Ac fome diftance, from the top of the hills to the eafl> ward, is a moft extenfive profpect; particularly a full view of the black sea. It is fjppofed, that the poet ovid was banifhed and confined to this place; which mud have been no agree- able fituation, to a man who had palTed his young days in the court of Augustus, and had entered into all the pleafures and amufements of that court, during the time of its politeft: and gayeft period, in the gal- lantries of which he was fuppofed to act. no inconfider- able part. This amorous Poet's book de tristibus exhibits a melancholy picture of the manner of pa/Ting his TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 397 his latter days, at this place, fo different in climate I7 -.3. from the happy temperament of that of italy. l^VX> After changing horfes at this place, we fee forwards. At night we came to a village called kayb a l y, at a {mall diftance from which we were fo bewildered, in a drift of fnow, that we loft the road; and had it not been that the barking of a dog directed us, we rnuft have lain in the fields all night. The 1 8th, leaving kaybaly in deep fnow, we pro- ceeded, and came to danna-kew, another village, where we parTed the night. The 19th, we travelled through a very fine country,- whereon we found very little fnow; and came at night to-KABADY, where we lodged. The 20th, we proceeded, and came to a town called bazar-tzick, and fpent the night there. The town is inhabited by turks, greeks, and Bulgarians. The 2 1 ft, we came to provady, a pretcy large town, inhabited as the former. We ftayed there all night. The 2 2d, we left provady; came that evening to tzengy, where we lodged. The 23d, we continued our route; halted at a cara- vanfera, four leagues from tzengy, and after that at a town called ay doss; where having changed horfes, we proceed- 398 A JOURNEY 1728. proceeded on our journey, and flept that night at V ^"V*^ BENGLYR. The 24th, we came to kanara, and lay there. I cannot buc take notice of this fine country, adorned with many beautiful woods and coppices, a very rich foil, and excellent pafture; but a great deal of it lies wafte; and it is but thinly peopled. The 2 5th, we came to the town of kirkgliss; from thence to that of burglass, where we remained that night. The 26th, we went on. We lodged that night at TZORLEY. The 27th, we reached the town of silivry, which {lands on the white sea, or the fea between the dar- danells and the pore. The 28th, we parTed through a large town, called buyk-tzeckmidgy; from thence the laft ftage to Con- stantinople. I muft here take notice, that at silivry I was met by another Chevadar, who, inftead of conducting me directly to the city, as I expected, turned fhort to the left hand, out of the high road, carried me through by-paths, over fleep and moorifh-hills, uninhabited, till at laft we came to a little village, on the top of the hill TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 399 hill called kara-mackly, where is a neat country- 1758. houfe belonging to mustapha-cassa basha, the chief^^^^ butcher to the Sultan, a place of great truft and ho* nour. I was lodged in the Bafha's houfe, and met with a friendly reception from his Kaya, or fteward, who fur- nifhed me with what neceffaries I had occafion for. In the mean time, I waited patiently for the return of a meflenger whom they had difpatched to the Bafha. This place ftands very pleafant and airy, within view of the city, and is a retreat for the Bafha, and his fa- mily, in times of the plague. It will be readily imagined, that I did not much like being carried out of the common road. But, without asking queftions, I followed my conductors. The 29th, the meflenger returned from the city, with orders that I mould proceed, which was very wel- come news to me. Accordingly, we fet out about ten of the clock. Towards noon, we arrived at Constan- tinople. They conducted me directly to the houfe of mustapha basha, who received me with great civi- lity. And, after asking a few queftions relating to my journey, he then defired that I would wait till fuch time as he mould acquaint the Viiier of my arrival. Must a- 400 A JOURNEY 1728. Mustapha basha did not return till the evening. Up- * h - /r>v ^-'on his return, he fent an officer with me to sir eve- PvArd fawkener, the British ambaflador, to whom I was addrefled, and in whofe houfe I lodged during my abode at Constantinople. I fhall fay nothing relating to the effecrs of my com- miiTion, farther, than that I punctually conformed to the terms of my inftructions. Here it may be obferved, that although the Russi- ans under Count lacy, and under Count Munich, were very fuccefsful every campaign, from the com- mencement of the war in 1734, and made great acqui- fitions on the Turkish frontier, on that fide, by their taking asoph and otzakoff; pofTefTing themfelves of the perecop, and the crimea.; and carrying their arms, the laft campaign, into Moldavia, which was ended, by a confiderable advantage gained by the Russians, at the battle of chotim; in confequence of which vic- tory, the Bafha of chotim brought the keys of that important fortrefs to the general of the Russian army, who fent the Bafha, and the principal officers under him, prifoncrs to st. Petersburg; yet the Emperor of Germany's arms, in Hungary, were by no means fuc- cefsful; the turks gaining on the Emperor's frontier there, TO CONST AN T I Nt) PL E. 40 r there, as much as they loft of their own frontiers to- 1798. wards Russia. Elated by their fucceffes in hungary,^^"^ during the laft campaign, the ottoman porte rofe in their demands, and infifted on higher terms than Rus- sia thought proper to agree to. This famous city is fo well known that I need not enter into a minute defcription, fo fhall only give a tranfient view of fuch remarkable things as occurred to me, during my fhort flay at this place. Constantinople is fituated in forty one and one- half degrees north latitude, twenty-nine degrees eaft longitude, upon a point of land, on the European- more, in the province of Romania, and is efteemed one of the moft delightful fituations in the world; for which reafon con stan tine the Great chofe it for the feat of empire, by whom it was rebuilt and beautified about the year of our Lord 330. At a diftance the city makes a very fine appearance, having a great number of gilded fpires, and domes, or cupolas, which multiply as you approach; but, when you enter the city, the general irregularity and narrow- nefs of the ftreets do in no degree correfpond with the magnificent appearance it makes at a diftance; which is, indeed, the cafe of many of the cities and great Vol. II. E e e towns 402 A JOURNEY 17 2 8. towns of Europe, feeming to be built at random. I V/V>^/ have often thought, that, had a Chinese been con- fulted, he could have taught both greeks and romans how to lay out towns, and that by the fimpleft rules; viz. Let there be fpace enough, fufficient breadth of flreet, and the houfes, on each fide, built in a flraighc line; which rules are obferved in all the towns I have feen in china, particularly pekin. This common er- ror, in laying out towns in Europe, muft be owing to the remifTnefs of the government of nations ; though this great inconvenience, in fo grand a city as Con- stantinople, hath no relation to the fituation of the place, yet it is thought by many, I think very juftly, that, were the ftreets of this city fpacious and regular, ic would, in fome meafure, prevent the frequent pefti- lential difeafes with which this place is affected, and which prevail more here than in any other place I know ; there feldom pafTmg a year without its making dreadful havock among the populace. This mortal diftemper's being almoft always, more or Lfs, in this city, may, in pait, be attributed to a defect in tuskish policy, which furTers all (hips to enter the port, without requiring bills of health, at any time; even the (hips from infected places, are admitted. I do TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 403 do not know but that the belief of predeftination, prd- 1708. vailing fo univerfally among the turks, with whom it' is a fundamental article of their creed, may likewife contribute to the continuance of the devaftations made, by this terrible difeafe, among the human fpecies. A very great nuifancc, attending this place, is, its being peflered with a great number of nafty dogs which belong to no body; they kennel in every corner of the flreets ; it is unlawful to kill them ; and they are ge- nerally fed, which is looked upon, by many of the turks, as an act of charity. It is, without difpute, a populous city; but far fhort of the numbers reported by common fame, which fel- dom keeps within bounds in things of this nature. Ic is true that many ftrangers refort hither daily, both from Europe and asia, and many of them remain here; but then, it mufl: be confidered, how many are carried off annually by the peftilence and other difea- fes. I do not think the whole number exceeds four hundred thoufand fouls. In walking the flreets, you often meet with people, who, to avoid converfing with you, walk on the other fide of the ftreet, for fear of catching the diftemper ; and moft people endeavour to get to windward of each other; which, with many o- E e e 2 ther 404 A JOURNEY 1728. tncr inconveniencies, renders the place not very agree- ^yv^ able to ftrangers. From pera, a diftrict of Constantinople inha- bited by Europeans, and by the foreign miniftcrs re- fiding at the porte, there is a fine profpecl of the city, and of the Grand Seignor's feraglio; which laft ftands on an eminence, with Hoping gardens, down to the edge of the canal, planted with rows of cyprefs, and ether ever-grecns. It hath the appearance of a moft delightful place; but, though the walks are well (had- ed, it is not thought good manners, or even fafe, to look at them with a fpy-glafs. Oppofke to the feraglio, on the asian fhore, ftands the ancient city of chrysopolis, or the Golden City, now called skutary, a pretty little place. Along the fhore of the propontis, towards the fouth-weft, runs a ridge of very high mountains, called olympus, which are covered with fnow fummer and winter. The mountain of that name, mentioned by the poets, ftands in greece. February the 3d, there was a great fall of fnow, fol- lowed by a ftrong froft, which continued for the fpace of fourteen days. I thought myfelf happy in efcaping it; TO CONSTANTINOPLE 405 it; but this weather is very acceptable to the people 1728, here, as it tends to Hop the contagious diftemper. ^V^ I fhall now take a view of fome of the mod remark- able ftructures, in and about this ancient city, which arc commonly fhown to travellers. Indeed there are but few remains of antiquity to be feen at prefent ; for the. turks, according to their principles, deface and ruin every thing that hath an air of idolatry, as they call it, whether pagan or christian. What christian churches they have fpared are converted into mofques. March 2d, the weather being fine, I made a party with fome friends to ride out and fee the aqueducts, which are curious fabrics erected in order to fupply the city with frefh water. They are faid to be built by the Emperor valens, They are now kept in repair by the Grand Seignor. They ftand at unequal diftan- ees, from four to feven, or more, miles to the north- ward of the city, according to the refpeclive fupplies of water from fprings and brooks. The long aqueduct is about feven hundred yards in, length, and near thirty in heighth; it confifts of two ftories or ranges of arches, one above the other, hav- ing about fifty arches in a range,- all of hewn flone, neatly wrought. The 406 A JOURNEY ! j ^ 8. T^ crooked aqueduct, fo called from its form of <*> r V~\j zig-zag, runs in this figure WWW; the intent of which is to divert and leflen the force of the current; and hath a triple range of beautiful arches. At fome diftance from this ftands the high aque- duct, the moft magnificent of all, being near three hun- dred yards in length, about forty in heigh th, having four ftately arches, with the fame number over them. Befides, there are feveral others of lefTer note, which I need not mention. They are all built to convey the water, over low vallies and hollows, to the city. At night we came to belgrai>e, a pleafant village, inhabited by greeks, where moft of the foreign mini- fters have their country-houfes, to which they retire in time of the plague. The next day we remained at this village, and walk- ed through the woods, to a neighbouring hill, to the eaftward, from whence there is a full view of the black fea. Thefe woods are of fine oak, beech, and other timber fit for the conftruction of a royal navy. They are well furnifhed with wild fowl, and various forts of other game. The 4th, we left Belgrade, when, riding to the fouthward, through pleafant woods and fields, we came, about TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 407 &bout noon, to a large village, called buyuck-teRey, 1758. Handing on the north fhore of the canal, or thracian ^VV bosphorus. This canal is natural, burfting out from the black fea, between two high mountains, and runs, in a ftrong current, about fixteen English miles, to the city, where it difcharges itfelf into the propontis. The depth is from ten to fifteen fathoms ; the breadth from about one mile to half a mile ; very well ftored with moft forts of fea-fim, particularly oyfters of a fmall kind, but very delicious. The land, on both fides, is very high, with many pleafant villages along the (hore. At the mouth of the canal, where it begins from the black fea, the turks have built two forts to defend the paflage, one on the ihore of asia, the other on that of Europe; they may well ferve to prevent fudden incurfions, but of little ufe againft a ftrong fqua- dron of men of war, and an eafterly wind. I was informed, that, in the reign of Sultan amu- rath, a ftrong party of cossacks came, in open boats, before thefe caftles were built, or when they were ne- glected, entered the canal, and put all the city in great confternation. After they had plundered many villa- ges they returned again to their own country, with little or no lofs. From A JOURNEY U^S. From buyuck-terey we fent our horfcs home, and returned to the city by water. Some days after this I went to fee the Sultan, as he came from his devotions at the mofque called jeney- jamey. He was on horfeback, attended by a fmall croop of fpahis on horfeback, and fome janizaries on foot. Mahmuth hath a good afpeel:, and bears the chara6ler of being of a humane, peaceable difpofltion. This Prince fucceeded achmet, who was depofed, a- bout feven years before, by one named ali-patrone, a janizary, and his ahociates, all people of low degree; the next in command to a li- patrol e, or kalyll as he is commonly called, was muss-luch, a dealer in me- lons and other fruits; the third was emy-aly. Thefe three chiefs governed the Turkish empire near a month. After they had placed mahmuth on the throne, they depofed the Grand Vifier, and difpofed of all offices, civil and military, at pleafure. Ali-patro- ne, in the mean time, was very fober, never changing his habit, came every morning to the janizaries hall, where he fat as fovereign judge, and gave fentence on all caufes, that were brought before him, without de- lay; was very charitable to the poor, and rectified many abufes in the ftate. That magnificent Vifier, ibrahim- basha, TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 409 iasha, who had introduced printing, fell a facrifice to 1798. the rebels. KS>nu. One action of kalyll's I cannot omit relating, as it evinces, that his high ftation did not produce forge t- fulnefs of his old friends. There was one janaky a greek, a butcher by trade, who had formerly lent ali- patron e half a dollar. He fent for this butcher, and * * made him Hofpodar or prince of Moldavia. Poor janaky would willingly have been excufed from ac- cepting fo high an office. But his patron inflfted on his taking it. However, thefe mighty chiefs being intoxicated with power, began to intoxicate themfelves with wine alfo; and they were at length caught in a fnare, laid for them by sultan geray, Chan of the crim tartars, who had been fent for, by fome of the grandees, for that end. Sultan geray fucceeded fo well, that the chiefs were cut off, the reft difperfed, and the govern- ment re-eftablifhed on the fame footing as heretofore, with very little bloodfhed; the particulars of which be- ing, in general, well known, I fay no more of that af- fair. The next place I was carried to was the mint, where Vol. II. Fff Ifaw 410 A JOURNEY i rj o 3 # I faw them coining money of different forts* It ftands ^VX^in the outer- court of the feraglio. From thence I went to the famous church of sano ta sophia, now converted into a mofquc. There be- ing already many defcriptions extant, of this ancient fabrick, I fhall only obferve, that it was rebuilt, and adorned, by the Emperor justinian, about the year of our lord 500. It is highly efteemed by architects, for the flatnefs of the dome, or cupola, which, it is iaid, the moderns cannot imitate. In time of war, christians are not permitted to enter the mofque. Neverthelefs, we were conducted up a pair of back- flairs to the gallery, from whence we had a full view of the whole. The floor is laid with clean mats and carpets, having no feat, only one pul- pit for the Mullah. The gallery is laid with marble, fupported by about one hundred marble pillars, of va- rious colours and fizes, mod of them, at leaft, between five and fix feet diameter. The whole of the infide hath a noble and grand appearance. At the entry in- to the gallery, is an old veftry, with the door clofed up; of which a greek, of my acquaintance, told me the following fhort ftory, viz. A certain Mullah being in the veftry, faw, or fancied that he faw ; a man on horfeback, with TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 41 j with a fword in his hand, who bid him begone out of 1728. that holy place, &c. This, like other tales of the fame nature, was not long a fecret; and was interpreted to have been no other than constantine the Great. However fabulous the ftory appears, the door of the veftry hath been condemned fince that time. From sancta sophia I was conduced to the Hip- podrome, where the greeks ufed formerly to train their horfes to the menage, now called the att- may- dan; and is ftill applied to the fame ufe by the turks. It is a fpacious oblong fquare, having a pretty marble obelisk in the middle. On one fide of it is a pillar of brafs, with ferpents twining round it ; this is fomevvhat defaced, and is about ten foot high. In the great ftreet, at fome diftance from the Hip- podrome, ftands another venerable monument of anti- quity; a large and tall pillar, called the Burnt-pillar, becaufe it hath greatly {ufrered by a fire in the neigh- bourhood, which hath cracked it in diverfe places; this is a misfortune common to narrow ftreets, and not to be remedied without a well regulated police. This pillar is of porphyry, about twenty yards high. We went thence to fee the grand refervoir, built with intent of fupplying the city with water in cafe of Fff 2 a < 4 I2 A JOURNEY ! 7 28. a fiegc. This muft have coft an immenfe fum of mo- ^^VX^ney; for ic is all of ic under ground; above it are flreets and houfes. It is not far from the Hippodrome. To- wards the water fide, the covering of it is fupported by a great number of arches, and many hundreds of ftone pillars, of which not a few are fallen down, and the whole of it is going a- pace to decay. There was no water in it. There is another ancient fabrick, known by the name of edikuly, or feven towers, ftanding on an e- minence to the weftward ; which is now a common pri- fon. Near the middle of the city ftands a fmall tower, called belisarius; whether or not it was the houfe of that great and unfortunate general I could not learn. Oppofite to the feraglio, near the middle of the ca- nal, (lands a fmall round tower, upon the fummit of a fmall rock, called leander's tower. This, with the foregoing, are the few remains of antiquity com- monly fhown to (hangers. The haven, which divides the city from that diftricl: of it called pera, for its extent and depth of water, may probably equal, perhaps furpafs, the bed in the known world, well fenced on all fides by rifing grounds. Near the bottom of the haven, is a fpacious and moft conveni- TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 413 convenient yard for building fhips and galleys, with 1798. fuitable magazines and ware-houfes for keeping the ( ^ Y '"^ cordage, guns, ammunition, and for every material re- quisite for building and fitting men of war and galleys for the fea. Adjoining is a place called the bagnio, appropriated to the lodging and accommodating galley-flaves ; where, it may be fuppofed, they do not pafs their time very agreeably. My next walk was to fee the Dervifes at worfhip^ they are a religious order of the Mahometans wha have a mofque in pera, built in a circular form, with a pulpit for the Mullah, and a gallery built in a nich, made in the circle, for the mufick. The fermon be- ing ended, the muficians began on various inftruments, which were like the European flutes and hautboys, up- on which five of the Dervifes flood up, and danced round the mofque, in a frantick manner, turning them- felves round, as they advanced, with fo quick a motion, that their faces were hardly dillinguifhable from other parts of their heads. They followed each other at cer- tain diftances; but an old man, of fourfcore years, out- did all the reft in quicknefs of turning round. Yet, when he left off, he did not feem to be at all difcom- pofed 414 A JOURNEY 1738. P°f e( l by the violence of the motion. This extrava- ^V>^ gant feci: make vows of poverty and chaftity, travel o* ver all the eaft, where the religion of mahomet pre- vails, and are held in great efteem, by the devout of that profeflion. The 9th of March, the army intended for Hunga- ry, under the command of eggeny-mahomet-basha, the Grand Vifier, began to file off to the camp afltgn- ed for them, about three miles to the northward of the city. The proceflion continued four days ; and, as ulual, when the Sultan himfelf, or the Grand Vifier, take the field in perfon, the troops are attended by all the different trades and artifans to the place of en- campment, each trade having the proper drefs and badges of their refpective profeflion, with banners, mu- fick, &c. The firft day, the janizaries marched, with their Aga, or chief commander, at their head, followed by a numerous multitude of artifans. The firft, in pro- cefTion, was a plough drawn by painted oxen, with gil- ded horns. It would be tedious to mention the reft particularly; I fhall only obferve, that fome of this ra- gamuffian crew made frightful figures, being naked to the wafte, with fabres run through the flefhy part of their TO CONSTANTINOPLE. ^15 their arms, and befmeared with blood; a mocking fpeo 1 7 ;8. taclc! ^r\r\j The fecond day's proceffion, was the pioniers and miners, with their different tools and utenfils. The third day, the cannoniers marched. The fourth day, the Vifier marched out, attended by the general officers of the army, a great many Spa- his and Janizaries, and all the different trades of the town*, among which rabble, were many fuch banditti as above defcribed, naked for the moft part of the body, all bloody. The Grand Mufti was in the fame coach with the Grand Vifier, and had the alcoran carried by a Mullah, who fat likewife in the fame coach, op- pofite to the Mufti; which was preceded by a number of fingers, in their proper habits, finging as they went along. Before the coach, was carried the flandard of mahomet, which is a horfe's tail, faid to be brought from heaven by the angel gabriel to mahomet; and is held in great veneration, feldom appearing but on great folemnities; after which it is carried back to the feraglio, where it remains till the next occafion. When war is declared againfl any prince or flate, the horfe-tail is fet up at the gate of the feraglio, cal- led alla-capy, or the port of god, from whence the Grand 4 i6 A JOURNEY 17^8. Grand Seignor dates all his difpatches; and, on that ^"V^ account, the court of the Grand Seignor is commonly called the ottoman porte, and the sublime porte. But when the Sultan is in the field, at the head of his army, he dates all his letters and orders from his ftir- rup. All generals who have three horfe- tails, are cal- led Vifier; but the Grand Vifier, who is always prime minifter, governs and directs all affairs relating to the ftate, both foreign and domcftick; next to him, in power, is the Kaymacan, who is his lieutenant; after him Nifangy Bafha, keeper of the feals; then Kap-ad- geeBaiha, chief porter; Kiflar-agafly, the chief eunuch; thefe are the principal great officers at court. It hap- pens often, that the Kiflar-agafTy hath more to fay than all the reft put together; for although the ladies live very retired, yet they are not fo ignorant as is ge- nerally imagined. And, if I am not misinformed, mat- ters of the greateft confequence are canvaiTed, and of- ten fettled in the feraglio, before they are prefented to the miniftry. One thing is certain, that whoever wants a favour at court needs no better recommendation than a friend among the ladies. Soon after my arrival, I had an invitation from the famous Count bonneval, who then was ill of the gout TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 417 gout; but, in time of war, it was not thought fit that 1708. I fhould vifit that gentleman. ^/W March 1 5th, Sir everard fawkener went to the camp to take leave of the Grand Vifier, as is ufual for all the foreign minifters to do, on the like occafions. We difmounted at fome diflance from the tent of this great man, were conducted, by an officer, to a magnifi- cent tent, near to that of the Vifier, and entertained with coffee, &c. for about a quarter of an hour; after which the ambaffador, accompanied by the gentlemen of his retinue, went to the Vifler's tent, where a flool was prepared for his excellency ; the gentlemen flood during the time the ambaffador remained. The Vifier fat, crofs-legged, on a fopha raifed. about half a foot from the floor, which was all laid with rich carpets. Very near him flood a frame, on which were hung fome muskets, fabres, &c. of very curious workman- ship, ornamented richly with gold, filver, and flones of value, as emeralds, rubies, &c. The Turkish camps are, in general, very regular and clean. The fhort ceremony being over, we returned again to the city. After fome days the Grand Vifier march- ed to adrianople, in his way to Hungary. Being about to leave this city, I (hall detain the Vol. II. G g g reader 418 A JOUR KEY 1758. reaQ, er with no more particulars than the following O^VX^fhort obfervations. In turky there are few families who have any di- ftinguifhing titles or honours, appertaining to them, which defcend to their children. All titles of honour, and places of power and profit, in the Sultans domir nions, depend on perfonal merit, or the Sultans fa- vour, which dies with the poffeflbr. The only two fa- milies, who have a jufl: claim to nobility, are thofe of dgiggal-oglu and kuperly; who, for fignal fervices done to the empire, have peculiar privileges; one, in particular, that the Sultan, as it is faid, cannot con- demn them to death. It feems, that, on a very criti- cal conjuncture, when affairs were in great diforder, the Sultan died, kuperly kept it a fecret for fix weeks ; in which time, by his prudent conduct, the go- vernment was eftablifhed on a proper footing. Befides thefe, there are defcendents of their prophet Maho- met's family, of which there are great numbers, who are diftinguifhed by wearing green, and enjoy fome pri- vileges. Having nothing more to do at Constantinople, I am now about to return to st. Petersburg. As I had a commifTion from Sir everard fawkener for the Grand TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 419 Grand Vifier, who was then at adrianople, I took 1758. that road. v^VVJ April 8th, after taking leave of my friends, I fet out from Constantinople, accompanied by a tzaufh, or meflenger, a janizary, and my own fervant. The 1 3th, in the morning, I came to the city of adrianople, where I lodged, at the houfe of Mr. da- miral, a greek gentleman, who is agent at this place for our ambaffador, where I found a friendly recep- tion. The city of adrianople is about forty leagues north- weft from Constantinople, in a pleafant coun- try, inhabited by turks, greeks, and fome jews. The Capuchins have alfo a convent here. The town is pretty large; and is remarkable for having a very noble grand mofque, with very high minorets, of ex- cellent workmanfhip. The architect was a greek, of whom it is reported, that the Grand Seignor, being amazed at the extraordinary contrivance and executi- on which the architect exhibited in thofe buildings, thought that nothing of mechanifm was out of his reach, and ordered him to make himfelf wings, and to fly off from the top of one of the minorets; which the poor builder was forced to attempt; after flying a con- G g g 2 fiderable 420 A JOURNEY 1.728. fiderable diftance, he fell among fome tombs, and O'VXj broke his neck. I do not vouch for the truth of the ftory; but I was fhown the tombs, in the neighbour- hood, among which it is faid that he fell. The 14th, I had a vifit from Monfieur peisonell, the French agent, and fome of the Capuchin Fa- thers. The 1 5th, I went to return the vifit at the convent. In coming through the market-place, in the way to my lodgings, I met with a very difagreeable fpectacle ; which was two men, lying dark naked, without their heads, which had been juft before cut off. They were faid to have been fpies. After difcharging my commifTion to the Grand Vi- fier, which I effected through Mr. damiral, and ob- taining an order for poft-horfes, I left adrianople the 17th, and proceeded on my journey to the northward; in which I need not be particular, having mentioned moll: of the places in the former part of this relation. 1 took the ncarcft way for yassy in Moldavia. The 26th, we paffed the Danube, in a boat, at a place called kalass, a few leagues above ismayl. The 2(yth, we arrived at the city of yassy. The next day I waited on the Prince, who received me in a molt TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 42 r moft friendly manner. He gave orders for horfes, and 1708. two of his guards, to conduct me to the frontiers of ^-'^NJ Poland. He likewife fent an officer to accompany me as far as nemiroff. I then difcharged my tzaufti and janizary, who returned back to Constantinople. May 1 ft, I leftYAssY; and came, the next day, to SOROKA. The 3d, I left soroka, paffed the Dniester, and came to tamas-poly, where I lodged. The 5th, I got to nemiroff, and at this place de- livered all my difpatches for Europe to General rus- sotsky, to be forwarded according to addrefs. The 1 oth, I arrived at kioff ; and fet out again the fame day. On the 17th of May I arrived at st. Petersburg. It is to be noted 7 all my dates are old ftile. I (hall Ai3t Stages between mosco and Constantinople. I mall fubjoin a lift of all the ftages and diftances from ST. PETERSBURG tO CONSTANTINOPLE. As I have, in a former journey, particularized the ftages to mos- co, I need not repeat them here. Verfts. From Sc. Petersburg to the cicy of Mofco 734 From Mofco, towards KiorT, to Sela Packra 3° the village of Tzeniskoy 35 Lykof-Vrague 4° Dobrichach 35 Town of Caluga 4° Town of Lykvyn 3° Town of Belof 4° Town of Bolfhof 4° Selo Glocovo 35 Town of Karczof 35 Selo Samova 3° Selo Tzaianka 3° Village of Lieubufh 3° Town of Seyefski 3° Tolfto Dubovo 4° To be carried over 1254 From to Stage/ Between mosco and constantinoph, Verfts. Brought over Town of Gluchovo Town of Korolevitz Town of Batturin Borzna Nefhina Nofofka Koflelitz Semipologue Brovaty City of KiofF From St. Petersburg to KiofF The verft in RufTia confifts of 1 1 66 \ Englifh yards ; fo that the diftance from St. Petersburg to KiofF, being 1586 verfts, is 1051 T ! - Englifh miles. From KiofF to Soroka. Polifh miles. Polifh miles. 423 1254 3° 39 44 33 48 28 38 2 5 29 1586 From KiofF to Vaffflkoff 5 BelozyrkofF 6 Shamarayofka 2 Squeer i To be carried up 1 ^ Brought up j 4 From Samgorod i to Golochuaft 1 Poorebifha 2 o Spiczinicz 2 To be carried over 20 4 2 4 Stages between mosco and Constantinople. Polifh miles. From Soroka the frontier, Brought over 20 to Yafly the capital of From Otzeredno to Lipovitz Vytofsky Kavalefka NemirofF Petzery SpykofF Lefkovitz Tamaz-Poly Kleynbofka Tzikanofka on the Dniefter, on the bank oppo- flte is Soroka Z 39 Computing 6 Englifh miles to a Polifh mile, the di- flance from KiorTto Soro- ka will be 253 ; Englifh miles. Moldavia, reckoning the Turkifh fahat, or hour, to be three Englifh miles. Englifh miles. From Soroka to Kaynar 1 2 Hetih 1 2 Meygura 24 River Pruth 1 2 City of Yafly 1 2 From Soroka to Yafly 7 2 From Yafly to Bender. Englifh miles. From Yafly to Rofinar Voltzinitz Kofhufhna KifhanofF Bender From Yafly to Bender 8 1 From 12 l 5 2 4 6 2 4 Stages between mosco and < SONSTANTIKOPLE. From Bender to the Da- Englilli miles. nube along the defert of Brought up 78 Budjack. From Kabady 12 Englifhi miles. to Aly-Beg-Kicw 12 From Bender Bazartzick 2 4 to Kaufhan 12 Ufhcny 6 Kongley 2 4 Provady 24 Tartarken 30 Yeny-Kicw 9 Town of Ifmayl 21 Tzenggy 6 FromBender to Ifmayl 87 A-Caravanfera 1 2 Aydofs 12 From Ifmayl to Conftanti- Benglyr 9 nople. Kara-Bunar 15 Englifh miles. Faky 12 From Ifmayl, crofs the > Kangry 12 Danube, Kirglifs 2 4 to Tultzin 12 Bourgafs 2 4 Babbadach 18 Tzorby 3° Kaybaly 18 Silivry 2 4 Kodjalo 6 Buyuck Tzeck- Iftere 6 miday 18 Danna-Kew 6 Conftantinople 18 Kara-Su 1 2 From Ifm. to Conftant. 381 To be carried up "78 Vol. II. Hhh 1 The 4 2 5 Stages between mosco and Constantinople. The whole diftance from Sc. Petersburg to Con* ftantinople, I take to be about 1925 Englifti meafur- ed miles, of 1 760 yards each mile. The feveral diftances as follow, viz. From St. Petersburg to Kioff 1 05 1 meafured miles. From Kioff to Soroka,the fron- tier of Moldavia, - - - 253 computed miles. From Soroka to Yafly - - - 72 Do. From YafTy to Bender - - - 81 Do. From Bender to Ifmayl - - - 87 Do. From Ifmayl to Conftantinople 3 8 1 Do* i9 2 5 Thus I have finifhed my fourth eaftern journey, which, in all probability, will be my laft to that quar- ter of the globe. I would not advife any man to un- dertake this laft, at fuch a feafon of the year as I did, or in time of war. FINIS. ALTERATIONS bt the AUTHOR. VOL. I. Page. Line. Read. Page. Line Read. 392 20 four or five hundred t 12 13 feven weeks. find roubles. M 7 September 21ft. 338 1 1 ivory-flicks. 16 2 CHERCASKY. 18 1 1 November. VOL. II. 1 68 22 KATHERINA-BURG. 46 12 near the feventieth. 220 21 Maflanitza. 129 18 dele ly in quickly. 2JI 2 fheds. 149 13 IRKUTSKY. ib. 1 1 for raifins r. almonds. 166 id col. 1. 7 . read 3 1 1 9. 299 16 URGA. 332 ult, could. .11111 3 1158 01072 085 I