^>clOSANCElfj> -s^lllBRARYQ^^ ^^^l•LIBRARY^/ ^ %a3AINn3WV .^OFCAIIFO% ,H;OFCAl!F0% ^^SlllBRARY^^^ ^WtUNIVERi-//) ^lOSANCElfx> %jnV3J0>' ' /ER% v;^VOSANCElfT> m % irrtri ^OFCAllF0ft<^ 4? ^.OFCAllFOff^ Guide to the KcX- -KFX Isle of Wight. DELIGHTFUL SUMMER TRIPS THROUGH 90 MILES OF THAMES SCENERY. SALOON STEAMERS run daily (Sundays excepted) between OXFORD, HENLEY, & KINGSTON. UP TRIP. Oxford dep. . VVallingford arr. abt. „ dep. abt, Htnley arr. about „ dep. „ Windsor arr. „ „ dep. , Kingston arr. „ TRIP. q. JO a.m. :.3op.m. 1.40 p.m. 6.40 p.m. 2.40 p.m. 9.0 a.m. 7.0 p.m. 1.30 p.m. 9.50 a.m. 2.40 p.m. 1.45 p.m. 7.15 P-m. 3.40 p.m. 9.1.'; a.m. 7.10 p.m. 1.30 p.m. Kingston dep. Windsor arr. about „ dep. ^ Henley arr. ^ „ dep. , Walliogford arr. . „ dep. „ Oxford 3UT. ,, 9.0 a.m., 2.30 p.m 1,40 p.m., 7.15 p.m 3.40 p.m., 9.15 a.m 7.15 p.m., MO p.m g.oa.m., 2.40 p.m 1.40 p.m., 7,15 p.m 2.40 p.m., 9.0 a.m 7.10 p.m., 1. 15 p.m ■ leave the The through journey occupies two da3rs each way, but passenj^ers car boat at any of the locks or regular stopping places. Circular Tickets for combined Rail- way and Steamer Trip^ are issued at most of the principal G.W.R. Stations, also at Waterloo, Richmond, and Kingston Stations. L. & S.W. Railway. Time Tables giving full particulars oi arrangements, fares, etc., post free, Id. ROWING BOATS of all kinds for Excursions down the River at Charges which Include Cartage back to Oxford. Full Particutais on application. STEAM AND ELECTRIC LAUNCHES for Hire by the Day or Week, and also for the Trip. Boats oj eii0ry description. Canoes, Punts, &'c., built to order. A large scloction, both New & Second-hand, kept in readiness for Sale or Hire, Illustrated Price Lists may he had on application. HOUSE BOATS FOR SALE OR HIRE, &■ ALSO BUILT TO ORDER. SALTER BROTHERS, Boat Builders, Folly Bridge, OXFORD. "« M ' mniimuiii A IPictorial an^ descriptive GUIDE ro THE ISLE OF WIGHT, IN SIX SECTIONS, EXCURSIONS, AND CYCLING AND PEDESTRIAN ROUTES FROM EACH CENTRE. jfourtccntb JEDitlon- TReviseO. UPWARDS OF SEVENTY ILLUSTRATIONS. MAP OF THE ISLAND. OUTLINE MAP, SHEWING CYCLING ROUTES FROM LONDON" WARD, LOCK AND CO., LIMITED, LONDON, NEW YORK, AND MELBOURNE. No Charge for Attendance. The Westminster Palace Hotel, VICTORIA STREET, LONDON, S.W. MOST convenient situation for Business or Pleasure. Opposite Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament. The Building is Fireproof. Electric Light tliroughout, Hydraulic Passenger Lifts, and all the latest modern improvements. Spacious Reading, Writing, Dining, and Drawing Rooms, together with Smoking and Billiard Rooms, are set apart for the convenience of visitors to the Hotel and their friends. Revised Tariff for 1904 on application. Visitors are received at Fixed Inclusive Rates, from T2/- per day. GEO. J. BRINKWORTH, Manager. Annex CONTENTS. ' i\C Map of the Island Outline Map, shewing Cycling Routes from London Fionli^piece To face p. 5 PACE IXTRODUCTIOX : The Isle of Wi^ht as :i Holiday Kcsoit ; Hotels and their Tariffs ; Golf Links .... Prelim ixARY Information' : Explanatory ...... I How to Get to the Island : I Kaihvav Routes ..... 2-5 II. Cycling Routes ..... 5-6 How to Get about the Island : I. Bv Kaihvav ..... 6 II. By Co.ich ■ . . . . 7 III. Bv Steamer ...... 8 IV. By Cycle ...... 8 Topoj^raphy " . Geolojiy Climatology History . ' . . . 16 A Literary Note . .17 Section I. — Ryde : Portsmouth to Ryde ..... 19-2.1 The Town of Ryde ...... 24-40 E.\cursions from Ryde : I. By Rail ...... 41 II. By Steamer ... 41 III. By Coach 43 IV. Cycling Routes ..... 4.i-<) The Xeigiibourhood of Ryde : I. Ryde to Sea View ..... 47-51 II. Ryde to P,instead, (Juarr Ahbev, Wooitun, I'ic. 51-7 III. Asiiey and Arreton Downs .... .'57-9 JV. Haven Street, Sinallbrook, i\:c. ... 59 c-f'f '' 1 > o i o =c i ^ LU a LU cc DC < ^ Cbiet ©ffice— Swan-with-Two-Necks, 65, Gresham St., London, E.G. Xocal ©ffices— 1, PIER ST., RYDE. REGENT ST., SHANKLIN. HIGH ST., SANDOWN. HIGH ST., YENTNOR. 78, High Street, Southampton; 55, High Street, Gosport; 62, Commercial Road, Portsmouth; 1, Stanley Street, Southsea. JSvancbcs .nt Barnstaple, Chatham, Devonport, Exeter, Amesbury, Guildford, Plymouth, Reading, Salisbury, Tavistock, Winchester, Yeovil, &c. CHAPLIN & CO., CARRIERS. ReceivingOffice : New Inn, 24, Paternoster Sq., B.C. CHEAP PARCELS RATES TO GOSPORT, PORTSMOUTH, & ISLE OF WIGHT. W. L: K'irM O- Sons.} [CoivfS. THE "LEAXDER" winning THE FIRST KINCi'S CUP, AUGUST, I9OI. GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. INTRODUCTION. That beaiitifid island which he who once sees never forgets, through whatever part of the world his future path may lead him." — Sir Walter Scott. The Isle of "Wight as a Holiday Resort. S a resort of those who make hohday, " says a writer in the Daily Telegraph, " the Isle of Wight is an embarrassment. Its attractions are so numerous and diverse tliat the visitor pauses on the shore to weigh tlie merits of Iialf a dozen NEWPORT, I.W. Roach's Hotel Restaurant ST. JAMES'S SQUARE. Finest and Best Appointed Restaurant in the Island. Excellent Cuisine, good Commercial, Coffee, and Smoking Rooms, Redecorated throughout. Electric Light. Visiturs and Tourists will tiiul in this Establishment every comfort and convenience. Truncheons from 1/- ; teas from -/6. GEO. QUARRIER, Proprietor. IXTRODUCTIOX. xi famous spots. Shall he remain in Ryclc, seek the sands of Sandown, the green recesses of Shanklin, the bold heights of Ventnor, or, rejecting all these, push on into the less known western places where the railway whistle has only recently been heard ? As a matter of fact, there is small need for such precision. The visitor to the Isle of Wight may drop down anywhere along the shore or inland, and be certain that the spot shall be a garden, and not a wilder- ness. He will find on every hand scenes of beauty such as, within the same compass, no other place frequented by tourists can show." Next to beauty of scenery, the holiday - maker values facilities for pleasure. The amusements and recreations open to the visitor during his sojourn in the Island are so numerous that we can do little more than catalogue them. Nowhere in the British Isles is better and safer bathing to be had. This is notably the case in Sandown Bay, with its long stretch of firm and gently-sloping sands. Boating of the absolutely safe, or "butterfly," order may also be had in the same locality, while adventurous spirits may hazard themselves on the more ruffled waters of the Solent. For yachtsmen the Island, or rather the narrow strip of water which makes it such, is of course the resort far excellence. Regattas are held not only at Cowes, but at Ryde, Bembridge, Sea View, Yarmouth, Shanklin, Ventnor, and elsewhere during the season. Fishing, both salt and fresh water, is fairly plentiful, though the latter is strictly preserved. Mullet, whiting, bass, plaice, flounders, and dabs are the most common sea iish. Golfers, who of all men know a good thing when they see it, have found out the Island, and there are excellent links at Bem- bridge, Sundown, Ventnor, Freshwater, and elsewhere. In connection with all these forms of sporj there are local clubs willing to welcome visitors. The pedestrian will find ample scope for his powers in tramping the noble Downs. The " Highlands " of the Island, if the term may be permitted, are not, in our opinion, sufficiently known and appreciated. The tourist wlio has climbed Ben Nevis or Mangerton, or even Cader Manners for Men Manners for Women A Word to Women How to be Pretty The Secret of Good Health and LonjT Life What Shall I Say ? A New Letter-Writer for Ladies The Book of Stitches POPULAR SERIES OF HANDBOOKS. THE "MANNERS" SERIES. Long 8vo, Cloili Bound, Round Cornets, 1/- Health Exercises and Home Gymnastics The Applause Reciter Recitations, Comic and Other= wise The Gentle Art of Good Talking The Shilling- Law Book Concerning- Marriage Athletics of To-Day T.ondoti : H'lifii, Lock .f- Co., T.iiniterf. J. MILMAN BROWN, PHOTOGRAPHER, First Prize MediiUit, Prizes mvcirdcd at Paris, \'ii-iina. London, Falniontli, &c. (FATROXIZED BY HER LATE ALAJESTY), HIGH STREET, 5HANKLIN, I.W. PICTORIAL POST CARDS. ENLARGED PORTRAITS IN ALL STYLES. Instantaneous Pictures of Cliildren. Dark Room for Amateurs. Families Photographed in their own Grounds. W EST C0WE 5. DOLPHIN HOTEL restAurant, KIGK STREET. Splendid Accommodation for Visitors and Tourists. Larsjc DininiJ Room facing the Sea. Luncheons, Dinners, and Teas. Speciality in Caterin.^ for Public Luncheons, Choirs, Schools, and Large Parties. Every Comfort combined with Moderate Cliarges. F. G. BULL, Pkoi'kiktok. GLOBE HOTEL (ON SEA FRONT) Beautifully situated, and connnanding extensive Sea Views. Opposite New Pier. Wiihin easy access to all parts of the Island. Splendid position for Yachting contests. Every Comfort. EXCELLENT CUISINE. MODERATE TERMS. MRS. D. WARN, Proprietress. IXTRODrCTIOW xiii Idris, iiiay laugh at St. Boniface, with its paltry 787 feet, but we niav assure the average stay-at-home citizen, with a short annual vacation, that he will fnid the ascent— particu- larly on the southern side — as stiff a bit of mountaineering as he is likely to care for. And, once up, what a panorama is unfolded ! Not bleak, bare mountain heights, with cold stone walls running in every direction, as in Wales, but a succession of warm and smiling valleys, tj'picallv English, with trim hedgerows, and copses behind which snug farm- steads nestle ; and here and there, through the gaps of the hills, a glimpse of the sparkling sea, dotted, it may be, right in the line of vision, with a few white sails, or the distantly picturesque funnel of a steamer. And the air ! People who want bracing need not be afraid of the Isle of Wight. Some of the towns may be relaxing at certain seasons, but let the visitor climb any of the downs marked on the map, and walk along the springy turf, amid the heather and the gorse,fora mile or two,and we will guarantee him an appetite. The cyclist is at a slight disadvantage on account of these same downs, to which every road seems soon or late to lead. But this does not deter multitudes of enthusiastic wheelmen and wheelwomen from bringing their machines across, and, as we elsewhere show, they have their reward. Hotels and their Tariffs. As regards accommodation the visitor need enfertain no apprehension. In all the larger towns there are numerous first-class hotels and boarding-houses, and an abundance of private lodgings of every grade. During August and the early part of September we would counsel inquiry by letter or othei^vvise beforehand. Complaint is sometimes made that living in the Island is expensive, but as a correspondent of a London daily once put it, " so rare an entertainment deserves its price." It will be found, on the whole, that prices in hotels and boarding-houses, particularly in such towns as Sandown and Ventnor, compare very favourably with those in other parts of the country, and inexpensive private apartments can generally be obtained with little difficulty. Things have altered vastly since Fielding was ■'HOME FROM HOME IN THE HEART OF LONDON." SAVAGE'S HOTEL Waterloo Bridge Road, LONDONm Two Minutes' from Waterloo Terminus (L.SW. Railway). CENTRAL. FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE. MODERATE CHARGES COMBINED WITH COMFORT. TARIFF ON APPLICATION. 7V/«/-rt/>/;/, Aihlirs, : F. FAIRMANER, "SAVAGE'S HOTEL, LONDON." Proprietor. CHAMBERS' ALEXANDRA HOTEL, Shanklin, Isle of Wight. OPPOSITE THE LITERARY INSTITUTE, AND NEAR THE CELEBRATED CHINE AND SHORE. LUNCHEONS. DINNERS, TEAS, ETC., PROVIDED ON THE SHORTEST NOTICE. TARIFF ON APPLICATION. Visitors will find Home Comforts at strictly moderate charges, and every accommodation for Commercial Gentlemen. ETON VILLA, SHANKLIN. Beantilull\ Situated ou the Clill .nid facing the Sea. Easy access to the Sands and I'ier by Lift nearly opposite. Terms on application to Mrs. SAMPSOX. Sampson (late Symonds) Boats, Canoes and Tents for hire. xiv IIOTRLS AM) TflKlR TAklFFS. xv lodged at Ryde in a comfortless inn, " built with the materials of a wreck, sunk down with age on one side, and in the form of a ship with gunwales." Having expostulated vainly with the landlady on the bad service, he addressed himself to the landlord. " I don't know anything about it, sir," replied that complacent worthy, " I leaves all that to my wife." The bills increased daily. " A pennyworth of lire, rated to-dav at a shilling, to-morrow was eighteen- pence.'' " Two dishes dressed for two shillings on Saturday ; half-a-crown charged for the cooking of one on Sunday." When the helpless visitor asked for fresh meat, he vc'as told he could not have it, " for the butcher never killed ox or sheep during the beans and bacon season ! " We give below, for the convenience of readers, a list of the principal hotels. Where tariffs are appended, it must be understood that they were supplied by the proprietors themselves, but as changes of management are of frequent occurrence, it is as well to verify the prices by previous inquiry. [Abbreviations; A'., bedroom ; A., breakfast • /.. luncheon; (/..dinner; t., tea; (Z., attendance ; fr.. from ; temp., temperance.] Alum Bay. Bonchurch. Royal Needles : A'., /;-. 2/6 ; />., Bonchurcli : A'., fr. 2/6 ; b. or /., Jr. ijb ; /.,/r. 2/6 \ d., 5/- ; /., /;•. 1/6 ; /., //-.' 2/- ; il. (tabic fr. i/- ; a., 1/6. I'citsion : 10/6 d'hote), ^1- ; a., 1/6. Pension : per day, 63/- per week. 10/6 per day, 63/- per week. Bembridge. Brading. Royal Spithead : /?., 3/- ; fe., 2/6 ; Bugle. /. 2/(.; ,/.. 4/6; ) 1/6; a ^^^ ^^^. j^ ^ _,/. . ;,^„. ^^ ,,. 1/6. Peiisiou : lo/O to 12/- , , ,^ 21- ; d., 3/-. Pen.ston : per day, 3i to 4 guineas „/6 per day, IS/- per week. per week. Members of Golf Club pnly hoarded in season. Carisbrooke. Old Bembridge. Red Lion : K., 2/6 ; />., 2/- ; /., 2/0 ; (/., 3/() ; /., i/(). Pension : Blackgang. 10/- per day, 50/- per week. Blackgang: A'., 3/- ; b., 2/6 and Waverley : R., 2/6 ; b., 2/- ; /., 3/- ; /., 2/- and 2/6 ; d., fr. 3/- ; 2/6 ; d., 3/6 ; /., Jr. l/- ; a., /., 1/6; a., I/-. Pension: 8/- nil. Pension: 6/- to 8/- per per day, 52/6 per week. day, 42/- per week. SPECIAL TERMS FOR RYDE, I.W. Rupert . Rouse FIRST-CLASS BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT. (Corner of the lorelv Sf-encer iJo.i.f, /. 52,) Beautifully situated. Splendid Sea View. Close to the New Esplanade, Pier, and Gardens. Visitors will find the house replete with every home com- fort. Late Dinners. Excellent Cuisine, com- bined with Moderate Charges. Mrs. a. turtle, Proprietress. Please quote Guide. WINTER RESIDENTS. THE MARINE HOTEL, RYDE, ISLE OF WIGHT. first-class family <§ Comn\erclal Jpotel. ON THE ESPLANADE, OPPOSITE PIER. Splendid Sea View from all rooms. Recently enlarged. Ke-decorated and Re-furnished throughout. Good Cuisine. TERMS'MODERATE. Special Low Terms during Winter Months. Table d'Hote. Separate Tables. FrcuJi and Gcnivui spokai. FRANK BAND, Proprietor. CROISTN HOTEL RYDE, ISLE OF WIGHT. MOST CENTRAL FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL IN THE ISLAND. This old-established Hotel within five minutes' walk of Pier and Railway Station. Splendid Stock Rooms and Billiard Room. Excellent Cuisine. Private Sitting Rooms. Coaches to all parts of the Island. Telephone No. 17. E. D. HATCH, Proprietor. HOTELS AMD THEIR TARIFFS. [Abbreviations : R., bedroom ; b., breakfast ; /., luncheon ; d., dinner ; /., tea ; a., attendance ; /r., from ; temp., temperance.] Carisbrooke (coiiti lined). Eight BeUs : R., fr. 2/6 ; b., fr. I A; ; /., 2/6; d., V^> ; /•, >''• '/-; '/.. -/3. Temperance: A'., 2/6; !>., 1/9; /., 2/- ; ,/., 2/6 ; /., -/9 ; „., -/3. Castle. Cowes, Marine. Gloster : Fountain. Globe: R., fr. 2/6 ; /)., i/- ; /., 1/6; ,/., 2/6; /., fr. I/- ; n., i/-. I'l'iision : 6/6 per day, 42/- per week. Dolphin. Tudor (Boardini,') : Cowes, East. Royal Medina : R., fr. 3/- ; /;., 2/- ;/., 2/- ;r/., 2/6'; /.,//-. 1/- ; . 2/6; /., -/6. Pen- sion : 6/6 per day, 42/- per week. la MADEIRA HOTEL This picturesque and comfortable First-Class Hotel has the advantage of beinij situated in its own Grounds, near the Station and within two minutes' walk" from the Sea. The Sanitary Arrangements are perfect. Electric Light throughout. Tennis and Croquet Ground. Cycle Store. Well-appointed Coffee, Drawing, and Smoke Rooms. Spacious Conservatory Lounge. Especial attention is given to the Cuisine. T. R. BARNEY, Proprietor. NOVELS BY JOSEPH HOCKING. IN UNIFORM BINDINGS. Crown 8vo, Cloth Gilt, 3s. 6d. ESAU. Illustrations by Bertha Newcombe. GREATER LOVE. Illustrated by Gordon Browne. LEST WE FORGET. Illustrated by J. Barn.^rd Davis. THE PURPLE ROBE. Illustrated by J. Barnard Davis. THE SCARLET WOMAN. Illustrated by Sidney Cowell. THE BIRTHRIGHT. Illustrated by Harold Piffard. MISTRES5 NANCY MOLESWORTH. Illustrated by F. H. Townsknd. FIELDS OF FAIR RENOWN. Frontispiece and Vignette by J. Barnard Davis. AND SHALL TRELAWNEV DIE? Illustrated by Lancelot Speed. ALL MEN ARE LIARS. Frontispiece and Vignette by Gordon Browne. ISHMAEL PENGELLY : An Outcast. Frontispiece and Vignette by W, S. Stagey. THE STORY OF ANDREW FAIRFAX. Frontispiece and Vignette by Geo. Hutchinson. JABEZ EASTERBROOK. Frontispiece and Vignette by Stanley L. Wood. THE WEAPONS OF MYSTERY. Frontispiece and Vignette. ZILLAH. Frontispiece by Powell Chase. THE MONK OF MAR-SABA. Frontispiece and Vignette by W. S. Stacey. LONDOlf : WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED. Jones' XTemperance IfDotel Station Road, Shanklin, #.1Y« A Few Minutes' Walk from the Station, Cliff, Beach, or Pier. COMFORTABLE APARTMENTS. Good Accommodation for Commercial Gentlemen and Cyclists. Visitors will find Home Comforts at strictly Moderate Charges. The House lias no license, but visitors can provide or order their own Wines, Beer, &c., it desired. .-. TARIKK ON Application. ELECTRIC LIGHT. Hra. ANNIE JONES, ProprietFeBS. HOTELS AND THEIR TARIFFS. [Abbrkviations: /?., bedroom ; A., breakfast ; /., luncheon ; rf., dinner ; /., tea; a., attendance ; fr., from ; tevip., temperance.] Ryde (continued). Star : R., fr. 2/- ; b., fr. 1/6 ; /., /;-. 2/- ; d., fr. 2/6 ; /., fr. i/-'; (/., -/6. Pension : 7/6 per day, fr. 42/- per week. Rupert House (Boarding). Dean House (Boarding). Niton. Royal Sandrock: R., fr. 2/6; b., fr. 1/6; /., /;-. 2/-; d. {tabic d'hote), 3/-. Pension : hv arrangement. Buddie : R., 2/6 ; b., 2}- ; /.. 2/- ; (/., 2/6 ; /., i/-. Pension ; 6/- per day, t,^1- per weel<. White Lion Inn : R. and b., 3/6 ; /., 2/6 ; rf., 3/6 ; t., I/- ; rt., -/6. Pension : 5/- per day, 35/- per weelv. Sando-uvn. Ocean : A'., fr. 5/6 ; b., fr. 2/- ; /., 2/6 and 3/6; /., fr. i/- ; d., 7l(^ ; a., 1/6. Sandown : R., fr. 3/6 ; b., fr. 2it,\ /., 2/6 ;'., 1/6 ; /., 2/6 ; r/.,"5/-; /., fr. i/- ; ci., 1/6. Pension : fr. 9/6 per day. Esplanade : R., 2/6 ; b., 2/- ; /., 2/-;t(iport. THK "victory" DKESSKI) FOK TRAFALGAR DAY. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. XPLAXATORY.— A word in explanation of the arrangement of this work ma}' save the reader trouble. We have proceeded on the assumption — well-based, we believe — that the visitor is more likely to reside in one place during the whole of his stav, than to journey round the Island from east to west, or from west to east, in the conscientious and methodical manner generallv suggested bv guide books. In a holidav of a fortnight or three weeks' duration, the visitor is likelv to gain an intimate knowledge of one district, and a pass- ing acquaintance merelv witii the rest. Hence we have endeavoured to make ca(]i scclioii coiiiplctc in Hsclt\ indi- cating under each heading not only the features proper to the innnediate neighbourhood, but the railway, steamer, coach and cycling excursions that mav be most convenientlv taken therefrom. As many places can be visited with equal ease from several centres, a certain amount of overlapping is unavoidable, but no place is described more than once. Cross references and the index will enable the reader to see 2 1 2 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. at a glance in what section the description of an)' particular place is included. How to get to the Island. I.— RAILWAY ROUTES. There are i'oui" approaches to the Isle of Wight, viz., viii Portsmouth, I'ia Stokes Bay, I'ia Southampton, and 7'id Lymington. I. London to Portsmouth. So far as this traffic is con- cerned the London, Brii^bton and South Coast and London and Soulli-lVcstern lines may be considered as one, tickets issued by either route being available for return by the other. Tourist tickets to Ryde (Esplanade), available for two months, cost 24/8 first class, 15/10 second, 14/- third. Fares for Sandown, Shanklin, Ventnor and other Island stations rathermore — consult the yearly tourist programmes issued by the Companies. Passengers by the London, Brigliton and Soiitli Coast line (Victoria or London Bridge) travel 7'id the Mid-Sussex direct route (90 miles). Places of interest on the way are Dorking (Box Hill conspicuous), Horsham, Arundel (seat of Duke of Norfolk — castle can be seen Mondays and Fridays, park always open), Chichester (cathedral, &c.), and Portsmouth (dockyard, the Victory, &c.). Journey can be broken at Chichester and Portsmouth. The London and Soutli-Wcsteni (Waterloo) direct Ports- mouth route (79 miles) is ind Guildford, the beautifull}'- situated capital of Surrey (journey can be broken), and Petersfield, joining the London, Brighton and South Coast Company's line at Havant. Portsmouth Harbour Station and Pier are connected {see pp. 19-20). From Portsmouth most passengers cross to Ryde, by vessels belonging to the Joint Railway Companies, but the Southampton Company's steam packets alSo run frequentlv to Cowes, a convenience to Cowes passengers from the West End, who prefer the London, Brighton and South Coast Company's route on account of their proximity to Victoria. Through tourist tickets are issued. During the summer there are also several boats daily to Bembridge, calling en route at Southsea and Sea View. 4 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OE WIGHT. Stokes Bay Route. Through tickets issued 7'ia Portsmouth are available also z'id Stokes Bay. This route offers a slightly shorter sea passage (about twelve minutes) to Ryde. London and Soiifli-Wesfern passengers travel via Basingstoke and Winchester (cathedral, school, &c.), leaving the Southampton hue at Eastleigh, and proceeding to Stokes Bay, where the station and pier are connected. The journev can be broken at Basingstoke and Winchester. II. London to Southampton. The London and Soiitli- IVcstern Company have a monopoly of this service. The route is the same as that to Stokes Bay as far as Eastleigh, where the line goes on to Southampton, the Isle of Wight trains usually running through to the Royal Pier, where the boat for Cowes is waiting. Tourist tickets to Cowes 7'id Southampton cost more than 7'id Portsmouth, viz., 26/2 lirst, 17/2 second, 14/2 third. The steamers are run by the Southampton Steam Packet Company, not by the Railway Company. The catering on board is good. For description of journey from Southampton to Cowes, sec p. 166. The journey from Cowes to Ventnor may now be made direct by the new line {see p. 141). Passengers for Southampton from the Midlands may avoid passing through London by travelling i'id Chelten- ham, Swindon, and Andover, connecting with the London and South- Western main line at the latter place. III. London to Lymington. This route is also part of the London and Sontli-Western system. Through carriages for Lymington are attached to the principal trains from London, thus saving the change at Brockenhurst. From Lymington the steamer crosses to Yarmouth (s - a week. Boating — good and safe. Stronji currents some distance out. Shallow fore- shore, rocky in places. Sailing vessels, with experienced boatmen, can be hired. Fishing — good. Whiting-pout, bass, plaice, mackerel. Excursions. Several steamers daily during summer to Southsea and Ports- mouth and to Hembridge, in connection with Brading Harbour Railway. Hotels.— Sea View, Pier. For Tarilts stv Inlroduction. ISTARD, 1L.OCK & Co.'s 1 M)llliny oUIUv-IjOOKS^ ENGLAND AND WALES. Aldebnrgrh, &c. London. Bath, Glastonbury, &c. Lowestoft. Bexhill. Lyme Regis, &c. Bideford, Clovelly, &c. Lynton and Lynmouth. Blackpool. r&c. Lytham, St. Anne's-on-Sea, Bonrnemouth, New Forest, Margate. [ia Sandown. There is little fear of trespassing, and if one docs inadvertentlv transgress the offence is not likely to be seriously regarded. IV.-HAVEN STREET, SMALLBROOK, &c. There is one further walk, or rather series of walks, which ought to be included in our itineraries. At the southern extremity of Swanmore Road, by the Partlands Hotel, turn along Upton Road, through Haylands, a pleasant suburb of Ryde, to Aldermoor Windmill. The quiet woodland road might easily be mistaken for a Devonshire lane. At the cross-roads "= keep straight on for Haven Street (four miles from Ryde), a small hamlet with a rail- way station all its own. There is a tradition that the place really was a haven at one time, Wootton Creek being then wider and extending further inland. The wooded bottom of the creek still marks its course. The Longford Instil life, erected by Mr. John Rylands, with its reading- room, has a quite imposing appearance. The return can be made by way of Firestone Copse and Binstead. * It at the cross-roads the left-hand road is taken, it will lead down to the railway at SuKillhivok, near the spot where the "direct" Ryde and Cowes line leaves the line to Shanklin and Ventnor. In the summer, marguerites grow on the embankments in astonishing pro- fusion. The Whitetield Woods can be entered, and the ramble extended to Nun well Park and Brading, or across the fields to St. Helen's. J. MiL AT BEMBRIDGE, iShankliti. SECTION II. BEMBRIDGE AND BRADING. F the passenger from Ryde to Sandown happens when near Brading to cast a look eastward, he beholds a wide stretch of flat and marshy land, intersected by a river, extending between hills to the distant sea. The prospect is not attractive, and he turns with relief to the view of Brading and its church on the other side. But if he will take the trouble to get out at Brading and cross the platform to where the short corridor train is in waiting for passengers to St. Helen's and Bembridge, we can promise him a surprise. Strangely overlooked is this eastern corner of the Island, except by its select frequenters, and much of its charm is doubtless due to this very fact. It has not only a railway service, but steamers in connection, running several times daily to and from Sea View, Southsea, and Portsmouth. Yet there is always elbow room at Bembridge, and abso- 60 FRADING HARBOUR. 6i lute solitude within a few hundred yards. It may be the spaciousness of the marshland, or the sense of guardianship conferred by the lofty Down with its protecting fort, but the Bembridge district somehow conveys the impression that it is a place apart, cut off from the rest of the Island and from the world, and subject to special treatment at the hand of Providence. The golfer, the yachtsman, a few heads of families, know it and love it — the average tourist passes unheedingly by. Let us say frankly, lest we be accused of raising false hopes, that Bembridge will not suit every taste. Niggers may go there occasionally, but we have never seen them ; it has no band that we ever heard of ; and its frequenters, fashionable though many of them are, seem to have come to a tacit understanding that in the matter of dress "anything will do." The scenery is not sublime; the shops are somewhat primitive ; and we are not quite sure that all the cottages where visitors arc received conform to the latest requirements of civilisation. But if you like a place where the only noise is the laughter of children, where the only daylight occupations are bathing, boating, fishing, and golfmg, and the evening occupations as nearly as possible ;;// ; where the only excitement of the day is the arrival of a two or three-car railway train, or the de- parture of a diminutive steamer, then Bembridge ought to suit you. The history of this tract of land is of more than ordinary interest. It is a kind of Holland in little — the outcome of a long continued and determined struggle between man and the absorbing ocean. The maps of a decade or two ago show water where is now dry land, or the nearest attainable' approach to it. Brading Harbour then ex- tended a mile and a half inland, the mouth of the Yar being, however, the only navigable portion. For centuries attempts were made to reclaim this oozy waste, and in the reign of James I., Sir Hugh Myddelton, of New River fame, partially succeeded. The sea soon got back its own, however, and succeeded in keeping it, in spite of several further schemes, until 1878, when another company 62 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. (financed, alas, by the notorious " Liberator " Society) managed, after considerable difficulty, to carry an em- bankment, more than a mile in length, right across the harbour. The sea being thus shut out, the land (some six hundred and fifty acres in extent) is now used for farming purposes. From Brading the line follows the sinuous Yar to — [ShaitfcHit. OLD CHURCH TOWER, ST. HELEN S. St. Helen's, Places of Worship, with hours of service on Sundays : — Sf. He/e/)'s C/)wrc/)— I i.o and 6.30. I Free IVes/eyan— 10.30 .md 6.0. 6/6/e Chnsf/an— 10.30 and 6.0. | Wes/eyan— 2.30 and 6.0. on the north side of the estuary. It is a somewhat " scattery " place, the village proper standing on rising ground some distance north of the station. There is a good modern Church and a spacious village green. St. Helen's is frequently visited from Ryde, of which town it may in some sense be considered a suburb. One piece of antiquity it possesses in the curious, square, white- ST. HELEN'S— BEMBRIDGE. 63 fronted Tower of its old Parish Church, which stands, deserted and forlorn, on the edge of the shore near the entrance to the harbour, and is now used as a sea-mark, 'i'he bodv of the church was washed away long since ; but apparently the sea was merciful in its operations, for the building was reported even in Elizabeth's time as being in such a ruinous condition " that one might look in at one end and out at the other," while there had been "never a curate and but little service for many years past, so that the parishioners had been fain to bury their corpses themselves." Of the Priory which formerly existed at St. Helen's no trace exists, though the name is preserved by a neighbouring mansion. In the reign of James I., the Priory was bought by a gentleman with the appropriate name of Emanuel Badd, who, according to Sir John Oglander, was a poor man's son, but " by God's blessing and yc lossc of five wyfes he grewe verv ritch." The italics are ours ; the suggestion the good knight's own. The sandv gorse-covered promontory hard by has been laid out as a nine-hole Golf Course by the Royal Isle of Wight Golf Club. The links are deservedly popular with plavers, one great advantage being that owing to the mildness of the climate the}^ can be used practicalh- all tlic vear round. There is also a Ladies' Golf Club. Communication is afforded with Bembridge by frequent ferrv boats {fare threepence), and by means of a roadway running across the embankment alongside the railway {loll one penny). If in the neighbourhood of the links, the ferry is to be preferred, as it is a long walk round by the embankment. Leaving the station at St. Helen's, the railway crosses the harbour, and after skirting its south bank for about a mile brings the traveller to — BEMBRIDGE. Amusements : Bathing good, though shore rocky in places. Tents .ind b.nthing sheds. 6oa(/()g— excellent. For sailing and fishing boats a bargain should be made. When tide is in, there is also safe boating in the harboiu' itself. Cycling. Good runs to St. Helen's, Sea View, and Ryde ; to Brading and Irading's one and only street straggles up a steepish hill to the church. The doorways are mostly flush with tlie pavement, and afford ever\' convenience for friendly gossip. If the coaches would onlv keep away, Brading would go to sleep very comfortably. In an open space half-way up the street, where the road from the station joins, is fixed 70 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. the Bull Ring, a massive ring of iron, reminiscent of the days when bull-baiting was a favourite national pastime. Here the poor animal was fastened, while the dogs, en- couraged bv the populace, " went for him." According to ■ Co. J BRADING CHURCH AND TOWN HAI.L. IKill'ur the Oglander MS., " it was the custom from time im- memorial for the Governor of the Isle of Wight to give five guineas to buy a bull to be baited and given to the poor. The mayor and corporation attended at the bull-ring in RRADIXG. 71 their regalia, with mace-hearers and constables ; and after proclamation, a dog called the Mayor's dog, ornamented with ribbons, was in their presence set at the bull." Next to the churchyard is a restored building (1875), which is still called by courtesy the Town Hall, though tlif name sounds oddly to those who are accustomed to tlir gorgeous piles so designated elsewhere. In the en- ci(K(.'d space, or markel-place beneath, where one would expect to sfe a greengrocer's stall, are preserved the old stocks and whipping-post. There is a reading-room and library above. .\ Public Hall, for concerts, entertain- ments, iS:c., iuis recently been erected, at a cost of {.'1,700. TiiL- Church, much restored, is the oldest and, in the opinion of many, the most interesting in the Island. From the exterior one would never judge it to be so old as it is. St. "W'^ilfrid, tlie Romanising Archbishop who figures so prominently in the ecclesiastical history of the seventh century, is believed to have founded a church on the site during his missionary days. The present building is of Transitional- Norman architecture, the tower and chancel Karlv English. The solid pillars of the nave were restored in iSr)^. The monuments are of more than ordinary interest. There is an effigy in plate armour of Sir John Cherowin (d. 1441), Constable of Porchester Castle, with an elaborate canopy above. At the chancel termination of the south aisle is the Og-lander Chapel, with a number of tombs of that famous Island family, whose seat and park, Xnmci'll, stands at the foot of P>rading Down. Roger de Orglandes, the founder, came over with the Conqueror, and his family is found at Nunwell as early as the time of Henry I. ' For eight hundred years the property was held in direct descent, the last baronet, Sir Henry, dying in 1874, and his widow in i8(>4. The Sir John Oglander of the time of the Civil War enjoyed, somewhat to his own disadvantage, the confidence of Charles I., and it was apparently from a mistaken notion that Oglander would be able to protect him that the unhappy monarch chose the Jsle of Wight as a retreat when he tied from Hampton 72 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Court. Sir John's MS. diary of that eventful period has been largely drawn upon by historians. A rather poor effigy, at the east end of the chapel, commemorates him. In 1898 a memorial brass tablet, which tells itsown tale, was placed in the church : "To the memory of the Rev. Legh Richmond, M.A., of Trinity Coll., Cambridge, Rector of Turvey, Beds, and Chaplain to H.R.H. tin- r)nke of Kenl. He began his ministry by acting as cnrate-in-ch.'irge at P>rading and Yaverland from 1707 to 1805. He has left the record of his faitlifnl and loving care for the people of Brading in the history of Jane, the Young Cottager The story is one of a volume entitled The Annals of the Poor, including The Dairvnian's Daughter, which was Ir.anslated into live foreign languages, besides having a wide circulation in Kngland. Scotland, and America. These short and simple Annals of the Poor are remarkable for the graceful descriptions of the beautiful scenery of the Isle of Wight, and the vivid reality of the characters portrayed. This Tablet was placed in Brading Church with the consent of the Rev. E. Summers, B.D., Vicar and Rural Dean, bv Legh Richmontl's descendants of the second, third, and fourth generations." Most people wlien at Brading visit the cottage and grave of the " Little Jane " referred to in the tablet. The grave will be easily found by the path near the east end of the church. The quaint thatched cottage stands in a lane to the right of the high-road, and will be recognised witliout difficulty by means of our illustration (p. 74). But the inquiring tourist will probably ask, Who on earth was " Little Jane " ? Frankly, we doubt whether one person in three who reads her well-preserved epitaph has the remotest notion. No book that we have seen more than hints at the awful truth tliat Jane was really a most ordinary little girl, who had the good fortune to say her catechism to the satisfaction of a talented evangelical clergy- man. The author of the atone time widely read Annals of the BRADTNG. 73 Poor was a literary artist of no mean order, whose wortc can be read with a pleasure which is altogether wanting in most productions of the kind. While curate in charge at Brading and Yaveiland, Richmond formed a class for scriptural in- struction, and little Jane, showing more prohciency than other girls in the gentle art of committing to memory the verses from tombstones, quickly commended herself. Sht> appears In have been of a most sweet and lovable THK OOI.ANDFR CIIAI'KI., HRADIXC. disposition, but shared tlie common fate of good people in being n"iisunderstood and sneered at bv her parents and companions. She was suddenlv called awav, at the age of fifteen, anf! Ivichniond's trndcT and pathetic narrative of her conversion and early cleat ii conferred upon her a posthumous fame at whicii probablv no one would be more siu-prised than herself. Close by is the tomb of Mrs. Ann Herrv, with the familiar lines, " Forgive, blest shade, the tributary tear." 74 GUIDE rO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Brading has of late years catered to some extent for summer visitors. A number of modern terraces and villas have sprung up, and others will doubtless ere long rob the place of that air of antiquity which is at present its chief charm. For those who love the Downs, no better centre could be found. After chmbing Brading Down, one can walk over Ashey, Mersley, Arreton, and St. George's Down lo Blackwater, rarely at a less elevation than three Inmdred feet, and often considerablv over four lunuhed. On both sides of the range are raihVav lines, citlier of which can be nlilised to varv the return journey. The Roman Villa. (Adiiiissioti i/-, cliiltlirii half-price. Moiulnys, bd. only.) This is at Morton Farm, just beyond Yarbridge, on the road to Sandown. The coaches from Ryde frequently stop to allow visitors who wish to visit this miniature Pompeii to do so. From Brading station take the road to the Bull- ring. Thence to the left (turning one's back, that is, to the church) and follow the road southward, past the school and Congregational Church, to a direction-post half way down the hill. Here turn rightward along a cart- track, with high banks on either side. You shortly pass a chalk-quarry on right, and a hundred yards or so further, some steps on the left lead up to a lield-path. Keep to left, skirting a hedge, until the tarred sheds which cover the remains are in sight. Or, from Brading station, vou may simply turn into Sandown Road, and keep straight on to Morton House. Persons coming from Sandown turn off to left opposite Morton House (direction-post). It is remarkable that, notwithstanding the clear historical evidence as to the Roman occupation of the Isle of Wight (to them Vectis), no remains attesting their presence were discovered until quite recently. Writing in 1816, Engle- lield savs, " Of the Romans there is not a vestige in the island." Remains have since been brought to light at Carisbrooke, Newport, Gurnard Bay, and elsewhere, but THE ROM AX VILLA. 75 y. .Oilman /i lS/:,i>iNi>i. LITTLK JANR S COTTAGE, BKADlNCi. the villa near Blading is by far the most extensive and interesting. The discovery dates from 1880, and everything points to the conclusion that the house was by no means a solitary one, but the centre of a considerable settlement, readily accessible from what was then Rrading Haven. The owner must have been a person of importance, but all endeavours to trace his identity have so far proved futile. 76 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Judging hv the coins, the villa continued in occupation until well on in the fifth century- The precious remains must, of course, be preserved at all costs, but the visitor who is not an enthusiast in such matters is apt to be somewhat depressed by the forbidding and inartistic sheds which now disfigure the site. Could not glass be used ? It is not necessarv for us to give an elaborate description of the \illa. The ordinarv sightseer will prefer the fri'e use of his eyes, while the learned will probably piocure the shilling Guide to the villa by Messrs. J. K. and F. (i. Hilton- Price,who superintended the excavations. The well-preserved mosaic pavements are perhaps the most interesting feature One in the south-west corner of the principal chamber (No. 12) is admirablv worked in small tessera^ of different colours. It shows a dancing girl, sallalrix, and a male figure, whose costume excites more interest than his features. In addition to the conventional skirted tunic, he has "donned the breeks," otherwise the braccoe., or trousers, which, according to our authority, were very unusual in those davs. One does not look for piratical customs in such a place, but visitors must be prepared to " walk the plank " with frequency, boards being laid across the mosaics to prevent injury from hob-nailed and other boots. The Museum contains numerous antiquities in bronze, iron, bone, &c., also pottery, glass, and tiles. THK OLD VILLAGE, MIWkllN SECT10\' III. SANDOWN AND SHANKLIN. HE praises of Saiidowa Bay have been so often Minj4 that we mnid say little. Along the whole of the South Coast it has few equals, probably no superiors. Like some thousand other bays, it has suffered from being compared to the Bay of Naples, to which it has only the remotest resemblance. It may safely be said, however, thnt along the whole sweep of coastline from Culver to Dunnose (say six miles) there is hardly a spot that is not beautiful. Viewed from the north or from the south, from the inland Downs or from the sea, the only applicable adjective is still beautiful. Perhaps the best point of view is an open boat in the middle of the bay. There the whole curve can be seen. To the extreme right is the fort-crowned Bembridge Down, 77 78 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. with its glistening chalk-clitt' ; then, by way of contrast, the much lower Red Cliff (also with its fort), sloping gradually to the flat shore of Sandown. South of Sandown, the cliffs rise again, and a solid wall of grcensand is presented as far as Shanklin. A spire or two just visible over the top of the cliff, the pier, and a row of houses facing the sea, are all the indications that town gives of its presence. Then comes the fohage-lined Chine, another wall of precipitous greensand cliffs, Luccombe Bay and Chine, bluff Dunnose, and, if one ventures sufficiently far out, and the day be clear, a glimpse may be had round the headland of Ventnor and its pier. The twin towns of Sandown and Shanklin share this bay between them. It is not for us to adjudicate the claims which each makes for pre-eminence. There is every indication that their rivalry will one day cease by the simple process of amalgamation. Lake, half-way between them, already affords a link, and it will soon be difficult for the stranger to say where Sandown ceases and Shanklin begins. For those with children we should say that Sandown is decidedly the better centre, as there are no cliff's to descend in order to reach the sands ; ^but for natural beauty the palm must be given to Shanklin. SANDOW^N. Amusements : Bathing and 6oaf/ng— excellent. Better cannot be had. Bathin.ii tickets 6d. c.icli, }.lb dozen. Cycling. Fair roads (see p. 90). Cricket Ground at Lake. Coaching. The coaches generally start at top of Hij^h Street, calling at Sandown Hotel, &c. The following are the usual routes : — To Ventnor, Blackgang Chine, and Godshill, 5 -. To Whippingham, Osborne, and East and West Cowes, 5'-. To Ryde, Haven Stieet, Newport, and Carisbrooke, 4'-. Special .afternoon excursions to Sea View, Godshill, Ventnor, Rj'de, and Bembridge, 2 6 each route. Golf Links, Lake and Blackpan Common (18 holes). Steanrier trips. Vessels call regularly in summer on their way round the Island, and Slianklin, Ventnor, and other places can thus be easily visited by water. There are also trips to Southsea, and to Bournemouth, Brighton, &c. Climate. — Sec p. 16. Clubs. — Conservative and Liberal, tennis, and other clubs. Hotels.— Ocean, Sandown, Royal Pier, Seagrove, and Child's (private), all facing sea ; Railway, near station ; York, Wilkes' Road ; Commercial, Bridger Street. For Tarifis, see Introduction. Newspapers, -/s/t' 0/ Wight Chronicle and Saiidcni'ii I'isilors' List, Thursdays, id. London dailies generally obtainable about lo.o a.m. SAN DOWN. 79 Places of Worship, with hours of service on Sundays :— Christ Church 1 1 o, 3.0, and 6.30. ' Baptist, Bihie Christian, Congrega- St. John's Church --11.0 and 6.^0. 1 tional, Primitive Methodist, and I Wesley an -all at ii.o and 6.30. Population (looi) — 5,006. Death-rate, exclusive 01 visitors, averaged durinj; live years, .Sij. Post Office ill Bridger Street. Railway Station, — Half a mile from sea. Junction of Isle of Wiglit and Isle ot \Vij;ht Central Railways. Hotel buses and cabs meet all trains. Restaurants.— ffoya/ Pier Hotel, Child's, &c. It is an uninteresting walk of something like half a mile from the station to the sea-front. On the way the Odd- fellows' Hall (erected 1885) is passed. Some of the characteristic emblems of the fraternity adorn the front. The Esplanade is entered a little north of the pier. It has recently been extended in the direction of the Culver Cliff. Sandown has reason to be proud of its three-quarters of a mile promenade. The sea at low tide recedes so far that one would not suppose a strong sea-wall necessary to resist its encroachments, but the local authorities have good reason to think otherwise, and have built accordingly. During the season the pavement is thronged with light-hearted holiday-makers, and cyclists of the " butterfly " or stay-at- home order find the well-kept roadway a great convenience. The Pier {toll one penny) juts out for nearly a thousand feet, having been lengthened and improved in 1895, at a cost of _£i3,ooo. Some convenient shelters have since been added. From the seaward end an excellent view of the town and bay is obtained. The landing-stage is available for steamers at all states of the tide. The pretty Pavilion, in which band performances and concerts are given, will seat four hundred persons. Bathing is allowed from the pier-head from 6.0 to i.o p.m., Sundays 8.0 to lo.o a.m. Full bathing costume must be worn after lo.o. There is a good swimming club, open to visitors. Indeed, at Sandown it is rather hard to get away from this subject of bathing. It is the pride and glory of the place. As a local " poet " charmingly puts it : " Though other towns may boast, Attractions deemed as fair, For bathing none on Vectis coast Witli Sandown can compare. 8o GUIDE rO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. There, all may have the jo\-, In water pure to lave ; There, nought is suffered to allo\- The clear, ret'reshinj* wave." The metre is suggestive of Dr. Watts's hymns, but theie can be no doubt as to the accuracy of the facts. The slope of the shore is so gradual that there is absolutely no danger, and there arc no rocks or shingle to trouble the tender- footed. For the same reasons the boating is excellent, and even such frail craft as canoes can be navigated in perfect safety. When the tide is uut, the sands are generally crowded with children, paddling and castle-building, or staring, open-mouthed, at the wonderful niggers. Sandown is, in fact, puf excellence, the children's playground. Other things of note along the Esplanade are the Baiul- sldiid (performances daily during season) and the pretty sheltered Arcade at the south end, near the winding path up the cliff. The arcade is a favourite spot for tea-parties, as the outlook over the sands and sea is uninterrupted. Some cosy public shelters adjoin. High Street, where the principal shops are situated, runs almost pai'allel with the shore, and some of the houses and hotels have entrances from both. The hotel accommodation of the town is excellent, boarding-houses are plentiful, and there is no difficulty, except during the height of the season, in securing private apartments. The town is lit by means of electricity, the standards being of similar design to those at Shanklin and Ventnor. The Ocean Hotel is one of the latest additions to the attractions of Sandown. It is a high-cla'^s establishment, combining the comfort and luxury of a large country house with the smartness and distinction of places like the Savoy or Prince's. It is much frequented by aristocratic visitors. Christ Churcli, near the junction of High Street with Broadway, is the parish church, and dates from 1845, the site having been presented by Sir W. Oglander. The fine west doorway commemorates Sir Henry Oglander (1876), the last of that famous Island race {see p. 71). The lych-gate is copied from that at St. Martin's, Canterbury, which is sup- 81 S2 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. posed to be the oldest Christian edihce in England. In curious juxtaposition to the Saviour's beautiful words, " I am the Resurrection and the Life," is the inscription, " No dogs admitted." In the churchyard are seven graves of men of the Etiry- dicc. The inscription runs : " Sacred to the memory of seven brave men of Her Majesty's Navy, who lie buried here, after having first found a watery grave on Sunday, March 24, 1878, when H.M.S. Eiirydice foundered in a terrific squall off Sandown Ray." The ill-fated vessel, while returning from a training cruise in the West Indies, with a crew of three hundred men and boys, was, when aliout two and a half miles from the shore, struck by a squall of great violence, and suddenly capsized and foundered. Onlv three survivors were picked up, and of these one died. St. John's is at the other end of Sandown, and was opened in 188 1. It is distinguished by the unusual propor- tionate height of the interior. There are several handsome Nonconformist places of worship in the town. The Town Hall is in Grafton Street, and contains, in addition to the District Council offices, a large hall in which entertainments are given. Part of the same block is occupied by the Fire Station. The drinking fountain and electric lamp opposite the Sandown Hotel commemorate Queen Victoria's Jubilee. A Free Library is about to be built, Mr. Carnegie having contributed ;^2,ooo, and the Lord Chief Justice having given a site. There are a number of forts and barracks in the neigh- bourhood, equipped with powerful modern guns. Sandown is a place of quite recent growth, and what little history it has centres mainly round the not very attractive personality of that notorious demagogue, John Wilkes. It was formerly known as Sandham. Wilkes's " villakin," in which he passed a considerable portion of his later days, is marked on old maps as Sandham Cottage, and stood on what was called " Royal Heath." Tlie only other dwellings were fishermen's huts, though EXCl'k'SIOXS Fk'OM S.I.\7H)|f'.V. S3 tlieii, as now, there was a t'oit close hv. Wilkes 'I'errace marks the site of the politician's cottage, and his name is liirther preserved in Wilkes Road. EXCURSIONS FROM SANDOWN. DISTANCES. Miks. I Miles. AiTeton . . . 5^ I Newport . ■ . Qi Ufiiibridiie .... 5 j Rvde 6 I'.raclin}^ .... 2 Shanklin .... 2 Carishronkf ''^1 Shorwell . iri l-'icslnvatii- n.iv . . JO Vt-ntnor ....(> (■.■■-isliill . . . . 5^ I Yavi-rlaiul . . . . ij If we except the cliff walks to Shanklin on the one hand and to Bembridgc Down on the other, and the pretty inland strolls to Lake and Blackpan Commons, Alverstone and Adgestone, it cannot be said that the immediate neighbour- hood of Sandown has much to offer the pedestrian. The range of Downs, commencing with Brading Down, is, however, within easy distance, sav a mile and a half, and the Siianklin Downs, leading to Wroxall and Ventnor, are little more than two miles in the other direction. The railway facilities are so good that any part of the Island can be reached in an hour or so. Indeed, .so far as rail- way travelling is concerned, Sandown makes perhaps an even better centre than Ryde. It i> the junction of the two Island railwavs, and the he;ul-i|iiarters of the line from Ryde to Wntnor. Bv mean> of the " Central " it is placed in direct connntniication with Newport, Cowes, Freshwater, <.S;c., while it is also within toiicli of the east coast resorts. I -TO SHANKLIN. • This is a delightful and invigorating tramp. Leave the Esplanade by the path beyond the Arcade. When the cliff top is gained, skirt the Battery on the landward side, and then follow the path along the cliff the whole distance. There are several gates and stiles, so that cycles and mail-carts must be left at home. The cliff is t'-eacherous in places, and has more than once foundered ; it is unwise, therefore, to go too near the edge. The view right along is superb. The bay lies at one's feet, and when, as frequently happens, hawthorn and other bushes obscure the view, the sea can 84 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. still be heard murmuring a hundred feet below. Close to the Battery a terrace of modern houses commanding delightful views is passed, and at a distance of about a mile the " Home of Rest " at Lake is reached. This is a tine block of buildings, and was opened by the Duke and Duchess of Connaught in 1893. Close by are the Sandown and Shanklin electric light works. Nearing Shanklin, tlie path is of a somewhat " up-and-down " order. A direction plate shows the way to the station, but it is better to keep straight on, the path shortly giving place to a well-made roadway, which conducts to the Lifi, by means of which, or by the zigzag path close by, the sands can be gained. The Chine is at the south end of the beach. If the tide is out, the return to Sandown can be made by the sands, but care is necessary, as although the places are so near, the walk takes longer than would be supposed. Those who drive or cycle must perforce go by the high- road. This is a continuation of High Stieet, leaving the town by the Barracks, and after a sharp twist under the railway, continuing due south to — Lake. This rising village has been described as " Lake-on-Sea," but that is exactly what it is not. With the exception of the Convalescent Home, it is scarcely seen from the sea, and an unobservant stranger might walk along the cliff top a dozen times without suspecting the existence of the place. The railway also intervenes. It is, however, an attractive sf)ot, and is rapidly increasing in size. It will, doubtless, one day have a railway station of its own, the company having already provided a platform at which trains stop on the occasion of matches in the neighbouring Cricket Ground, the head-quarters of Isle of Wight cricket. 'J'iiis ground, in addition to a number of excellent pitches, contains a cindered cycling track, tennis courts, &c. There is a small Chiircli at Lake, the foundation stone of which was laid by the Bishop of Winchester in July, 1892, and the village also contains a reading-room. At Little Stair's Point a descent can be made from the cliff to the sands. YARBRIDGE—YAVERLAND. 85 Continuing through Lake, the main road is followed until High Street, Shanklin, is reached. The Chine can be entered from a turning on the left (Crab Hotel at corner). n.-TO ROMAN vula, yarbridge, and brading, Few directions are necessary. Leave tiie Esplanade at north end bvSandown Hotel. Turn to left (Avenue Road), and after passing under railway bridge turn rightward, and over the river Yar, continuing by straight road to Morton Farm. Here a small sign-post on left directs to Roman Villa {sec pp. 74-6). Leave the villa by the field-path for Brading (indicated the reverse way on p. 75), or keep straight on at the direction-post there mentioned, pass by Yarbridge and over the railway bridge, returning to Sandown by wa\' of Yaverland. (See below.) Yarbridge. This little village is sometimes confused with its near neighbour, Yaverland. The origin of the name is obvious enough. There was at one time neither bridge nor cause- way over the Yar, and the good people of Yaverland, having sometimes to attend Brading parish church, were frequently deterred bv Hoods and swamps. In F"roude's History an account is given of a sanguinary fight near Yarbridge in 1545, when a band of French invaders were driven back by the stout-hccUted islanders. Very fair angling is to Iie hail in Ihe ii\er, whicli is well stocked witli trout. Permission ^uust lie .ipplied I'oi at the Anglers' Inn. A steep ascent from I he brulge (tiun to right) leails in half a mile to — Yaverland, on the southern slope of Bembridge Down. A cluster of cottages, a small church, and a Jacobean manor house make up the village. The Russells, progenitors of the present noble house of Bedford, once loomed large in the locality. The Churcli (Sunday services, in summer, ii.o and 6.30; winter, ii.oand 4.0) was restored and added to in liSiSiS, but nuich of it dates from the twelfth century. The -t)ulh porch is model n. Iiut llie doorway itself is very 86 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. ancient. Tlic NuiiUcin chanccl-urch is perhaps the most interesting feature. Yaverland was always a kind of dependency of Braduig, as witness a curious extract from the Oglander MS. : " The Parishioners buryed at Bradintje and received ye communion there. At Christmas and Easter ye P'son of Yaverland wase injoined to come with his whole p'risch, and to administer ye cupp ; he wase to read ye first lesson, to fynde 2 loade of straw yerely to laye in ye seates, 6 lb. of candels, and "ff" ■""ff*' 'Mj <-':-,l [Rjd, Y.WERI.AXD CHURCH. los. yerely in moneyes and to acknowledije Bradinge for theyre mother church." The Manor House (next the church), with its gabled front, is now used as a farmhouse, and can onlv be viewed by permission of the tenant. Bembridg-e Down (><•(• p. 67) can be easily ascended, and by tinning leftward at the fort, the walk or drive can be extended to Bembrid.g'e. To regain Sandown from Yaver- .S.^A7;0[f'A' 70 XElVrORT. 87 hind, keep 011 past llic church until llic coast is reached near th^ lower fort. Needless to add, the walk may be coninicnced the othei way from Sandown by following the coast and bending inland at the fort for Yaverland. It is also a delightful walk to follow the coast right up to the Culvers, and then drop down to Whitecliff Bay {sec p. 66). in— SANDOWN TO NEWPORT BY RAIL. By means of this short line all the places of interest inland from Sandown can be easily reached. The first portion of the route follows the course of the Yar, skirting the southern slope of the range of Downs which runs from I'.rading to tlie valley of tlie Medina. Some of the views obtained in passing are verv prettv. From each station on the line there is a more or less direct road to the summit of the Downs. The line is a single one only, and the wayside stations are amusingly diminutive. The speed is by no means e.xcessive^indeed the journey has most of the advantages, if one mav so put it, of a coach-ride, and is decidedly less expensive. With few exceptions, the trains will stop at any station, whether timed to do so or not, if the guard is spoken to on the suliject. Alverstone, the first station reached, is a pretty spot famous for its wild flowers. Lord Alverstone, the present Lord Chief Justice of England, takes his title from the place. As Sir Richard Webster he for many years represented the Isle of Wight in Parliament. A wooded knoll about half a mile south of the station is known as Queen's Bower, from a tradition that Isabella de Fortibus, Lady of the Wight, had a hunt- ing lodge here in what was then the extensive forest of Borthwood, now little more than a copse. A circuitous walk back to Sandown can be had from this spot. A capital return walk to Sandown can also be had by turning to the north and east from Alverstone station, by way ot Alverstone Lynch, noted for nightingales, and across to the Walerwoiks and Lake Connnon. 88 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Newchurch. This parish, though small at present, once stretched right across the Island, and included within its boundaries both Rydc and Ventnor. The Church, the Sooth anniversary of the foundation of which was celebrated in 1887, is very plain. A quaint epitaph on Richard Forward, "Vestry clerk 54 years, parish schoolmaster 53 years, and church clerk 24 3'ears," runs as follows : " In yonder sacred pile his voice was wont to sound. And now liis body rests beneath the hallowed ground. He taught the peasant boy to read and use the pen ; His earthly toils are o'er — he's cry'd his last Amen." The village, with its thatched cottages and luxuriant fiower- gardens, has an attractive appearance. The top of Mersley Down (413 feet) can be gained by the road running north from the station. Horring'ford, the next station, is about a mile from — Arreton, where lived the " Dairyman's Daughter " of Legh Rich- mond's Annals. Again we are tempted to ask, as at Brading (p. 72), how many of the hundreds who come by cycle, coach, and. rail, have the faintest idea of the life story of this e.xcellent young woman ? She was in service at Knighton, on the slope of Ashev Down, in what Engle- lield described as " by far the most considerable and beautiful of the ancient mansions of the island." It was pulled down in 1820. Elizabeth Wallbridge so appreciated Richmond's kindness in conducting the funeral of her bister, though she was not of his parish, that she com- menced a correspondence, from which a warm mutual regard ensued. She died, after a lingering illness, in 1801, aged 31. Her grave is to be found in the churchyard to the north-east of the church. Her sister's grave adjoins. The cottage in which dwelt the comparatively unim- portant father of the " Dairyman's Daughter," lies to the south of the railway, opposite a chapel on the right of the road at Hale Common. Those who wish to sec it should therefore tin"n Icfl at the station before going up Arreton Street, willi its straiigling cottages, to tiie ciunch. 'i'hough ARRETON—MERSTONE. 8g restored in 1886, the work was so carefully done that the Church is still full of interest to the archaeologist. It was one of the six Island churches given by Wm. FitzOsborn to the monks of Lire Abbey, in Normandy, and is men- tioned in Domesday as belonging to them. An ancient brass represents a man in plate armour, his feet upon a lion, with this inscription : " Here is y-biiried under the j right along Newport Koad as far as Apse Heath. At ltoss- roads turn to left for Whitley Bank, and at next cross-roads bear to right, through Sandford to Godshill. (For continua- tion to Chale Green, Shorwell, and Freshwater, sec p. 107.) SHANKLIN. Amusements : 8a//i/ntf— cxccUciil. •■ Mixed " bathing allowed. Soaring— excellent. Coaching. The touts are not likely to allowvisitors to remain in ignorance, hut the principal routes may as well be mentioned : To Blackjjanj;, Carisbrooke and Xewport, 5/-. To Cowes, Osborne and Whippinghani, 5 -. To Freshwater Hay. via Godshill, Chale, Shorwell, Brixton and Brook, retinning -'/(} Calbourne, Carislirooke ;Bid .-\rreton, 7 6. Cricket Ground at L:ike. Cycling. Town and immediate neii^hbourhood hilly. Golf. Links on Lake and Bl.ackpan Common (iS holes). Steamers to Venlnor, Rydc. Sonthsea, i*ic. Tennis Ground at fool of Sh.inklin Down. (Turn up Grange No.id fiom High Street.) There are also courts attached lo the Shan'kliu Club .ni Cl'ifl Promenade. Climate. — .S/ W'iglil Unaniian I !■ 1 id.iy), and Shanklin (ia^t'lle. Reading Room ;it Institute. Places of Worship, with the hours of service on Sundays : - 0/d C/)i/re/?— ii.o and6.3o. • Bible Christian, Congregational, and St. Saviour's-on-the-Ciiff^iio, and Wesleyan — all at ii.o and '1.30. '>■^o. Roman Catholic (Sacred Heart ot St. Paul's, near Station- -ii.o and jesitsj 8.30, 10.30, and 6.30. '1,30. Population (n/)i). — 4,533. Postal, -There are two Post Offices, one in High Street near Daish's Hotel, llie othep ou the Esplanade. Railway Station.--X.\V. of town. It is about one-third of a mile from the shops in High Street. Hotel omnibuses and cabs meet principal trains. Of Shanklin it is impossible to speak without affection. Complaint has been made that the town is now overrun, that trippers come more often thi\n is desirable, that its beauties are shorn, its glories departed. The statement is a calumny. " Leafy Shanklin " may have been, indeed has been, vastly overrated, but that affords no excuse for the present disptv sition in certain quarters to underrate it. (lO where you will, vou will liiul few prettier towns, none more Iiappily 92 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. situated as regards outlook and surroundings. A town of villas — not the stereotyped patterns familiar to dwellers in suburban London, but tasteful erections that the eye dwells upon with pleasure, rarely exceeding two storeys in height, but spacious, airy, and surrounded by gardens where there is room for something more than a geraniurn-bed and an apology for a lawn. The very jerry builder seems here to have imbibed some sense of the loveliness of his surround- ings, and to have repressed, so far as repression is possible, the instincts of his lower nature. It is not too much to say with Mr. Clement Scott, " There is no cool green corner in the island like Shanklin. Its wonderful variety, its woods and streams and brooks and picturesque houses, give it the prize unquestionably for beauty." An instructive essaj' might be written on " The disadvan- tages of' coming to a place by railway." How often it happens that either the last two or three miles of rail, or the approach to a town from the station, are calculated to give the worst possible impression. Brighton, Scar- borough, and London itself are conspicuous examples. Coming from the station, Shanklin looks a very ordinary place ; not worse, perhaps, but certainly not better than scores of other towns that might be mentioned. But when, after reaching the High Street, the visitor turns leftward by one of the devious and intricate roads that lead to the cliff, his iirst impression is at once dispelled. The beautiful bay, with here and there a white-sailed vachl, ur fai-away insect-like boat, and perhaps a passing steamer, bursts upon the view all at once, and rareh^ fails, when first seen, to evoke an exclamation of delight. By far the greater portion of the town is built upon the cliff, at an elevation of from a hundred to a hundred and fifty feet above the sea. The cliff is a sheer perpen- dicular wall. At the north and south extremities of the town there are slopes, as easy as can be made, leading down to the Esplanade ; but from the pretty, but far too narrow Green, which forms the most attractive portion of the Cliff Promenade, a zigzag flight of steps must be descended, or the hydraulic Lift (one pennv) made use of. Near tiic 93 94 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OE WIGHT. lop of tlic steps is a Shelter, commaiKlin,;^ niagniricciit sea views. Lavatories adjoin. The Esplanade is a kind of undercliff promenade and roadway, almost on a level with the sea. It has recently been extended, and is now more than half a mile long. The pavement has also been doubled in width. The promenade, with its tasteful shelters, makes a very agreeable lounge. At the north end, just under the clif¥, is a free Chalybeate Spring, the utensils connected with which bear somcwliat too convincing testimony to the mineral contents of the water. The pretty Clock Tower near the pier was erected in 1899 in commemoration of Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. The sands arc all that could be wished, and slope so gradually that bathing may be had at almost all states of the tide. This lower part of the town contains a number of lodging-houses, and one of the principal hotels, the Royal Spa, which boasts a chalybeate spring of its own, which, according to Worslcy's Hislorv, was "discovered, analysed, and prescribed by Dr. Fraser, physician to Charles 11., with mucli success." The water can be freely tasted. The adjoining Baths, constructed on the Conti- nental principle, were opened in August, 1900, and are verv popular. The Pier (Toll hi'opeucc) extends a sufficient distance to ensure an ample depth of water at the lowest tides, so that steamers can land and embark passengers at all hours. At the head is a Pavilion with a pretty stage, where concerts and other performances are given daily during the season. The Chine (Adiuissioii threepence) is of course Shanklin's greatest attraction. It can be entered either from the beach at the south end of the Esplanade, or from tlie middle of the town bv a downward turning SHANKLIN CHINE. 95 96 GUIDE TO THE I SEE OF WIGHT. which leaves High Street at the Crab Hotel. The visitor is usually advised to enter from the beach and ascend, but personally we prefer to go down. The word Chine is derived from the Anglo-Saxon ci)ic, a chink or fissure. '■= Close to the old church (sec p. 97) a land-spring takes its rise, and after winding through the beautiful grounds of Upper Chine House, crosses the road, and falls over a carefully placed flagstone at the head of the Chine proper. In wet weather a pretty cascade is formed, though ordinarily the stream is insignificant. We believe the local water- works are responsible for some of the depletion. The continual action of the water on the soft stone has in the course of years excavated a winding glen, which has become covered with underwood, tapering trees, and beautiful ferns, the latter naturally attaining great per- fection in so suitable a spot. The Chine is about three hmidred feet wide at its mouth, but gradually contracts to a few yards only. In parts the bare rock is exposed, with here and there a tiny plant or frond, in other places the foliage forms an unbroken canopy of glistening green. The path winds this way and that above the tiny stream, in one place crossing it by a pretty rustic bridge, beloved of artists. Near the bottom, a path on the right leads to an open spot, where seats are placed in such a way as to command an extensive view of the sea. The Chine is most appreciated on a fine summer day, when the cool shade and greenery afford a welcome relief to the glare and heat outside. Supposing the exit to be made from the top, we notice next to the rustic toll-house a small chalybeate spring with an amusing request, comment upon which would be super- fluous : " Oblige by not throwing the water back into the trough, as it makes the water thick." Turning leftward we can walk along Chine Hollow, or Avenue, with its high banks and overhanging trees to * Spenser uses the verb " to chine " in the Faerie Qiieeue — "Where, biting cleepe, so deadly it imprest That quite it cliyned his backe behind the sell." CHANNEL VIEW PRIVATE HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS. Beautifully Situated. Facing Sea. Full South Aspect. Keplete with every Comfort. Heated throughout Winter. Haths (H. & C). Moderate Terms. ■ MRS. & MFSSKS PARSONS, Proprieiresses. Isle of Wight, to face p. 96.] SHANKLIN. CLIFTON HOUSE. first-class hoarding 6sfablis/jn]enf. CO -- w C/3 o ^ rt c5 O o ^ -^ IS '- oT Q .-^ < o-c S "^ a; 73 'J O « Z « rr B ^ <: O U O mi in ~3 » O) J- •d I- o .s "to cc « I- 4) S q: " O Ix. CO oi ;^ ps I- & < ™ LU 2 Q. 2 CD 1-^ - S « o O . o o o •iH o 03 5=1 O O t/) /sZc o/ Wight, to face p. 97.] y CYCLING ROUTES TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT LOITDQI Croydon Kkigstoii. Coshajn. k ^q "^t Ca*hcrwve.PV WARD LOCK & Co., Ltd., WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQ., LONDON. SflAXk'IJX. 97 the commencement of Luccombc Road, which presentl}' gives place to a footpath leading to Liiccombe Chine and- the far-famed Landslip {sec p. loo). , The first turning on the left from Chine Avenue leads to a small enclosed part of the cliff, quite detached from the rest, where it is possible to sit in perfect quiet, enjoying meanwhile a delightful sea prospect. A long flight of steps leads to the sands below. Turning to the right on leaving the Chine we come to the Crat) Hotel, which boasts, with some reason, of being the prettiest in the island. At the corner is an unobtrusive Fountain, with a small shield emblazoned with the English and American flags, and bearing the following lines, written by Longfellow when visiting Shanklin in 1868 : •■ O traveller stay thy weary feet ; Drink of tliis fountain, pure and sweet ; It flows for ricli and jioor the same. Tlien ifo tliy way, remeniherinj; still ■J'lie wayside well beileatli tlie hill. The cup of water in His name." On the other side of the road is Hollier's Hotel, where Longfellow stayed. We are now in what is by far the most picturesque part of Shanklin — The Old Village. The thatched roofs and quaint while fronts of the Shanklin of days gone by have been wonderfully well preserved, and have a delightful atmosphere of rusticity. Continue up the hill for a few himdred yards, skirting the lovely grounds of Upper Chine House, with its clematis-covered stables, to — The Old Church, which is at once a disappointment and a delight. Old as it is (there are remains of fourteenth century work), the much- restored edifice presents scarcely a feature of interest, and might be described without injustice as positively ugly ; but so beautiful is its situation that the mind would probably resent an architectural masterpiece as an absurd attempt to compete with Nature. Behind rise the green slopes of Shanklin Down. A little to the lei t a copse of giant ash-trees, S 98 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. bordering the high-road, bends to the breeze, the rusthng of the leaves, if the wind be at all high, drowning all other sound. In the churchyard itself are other trees, heavy many of them with age, and from some points of view almost concealing the dull, red-slated church. On the western side of the church there is a spot where the trees are parted, and through the opening we get a glimpse of the bay, with its far-away chalk cliffs — an almost perfect picture, set in a ' i{. '-'''' ■ J i M 8, V '^Mi w\ M^± I m-, iil.l; LHLKcH, SHANKLIN". ' (Autumn.) framework of foliage. The handsome Lych-Gate is a memorial of the late Francis White Popham, lord of the manor. It was a quaint fancy to surmount the gate with a striking clock. Musing among the memorials of the dead, you are recalled v^'ith startling suddenness to life, and the llight of tihie, by a resonant bell proclaiming the hours. Close by is the Manor House ; and near the road a pond, in which ducks and swans are generally floating, adds another touch of beauty to the scene. SHAXk'IJX. 99 Returning lo thu town, we ascend Hijj^h Street, noticin}^ on the left Daish's Hotel, famous in coaching circles, and on the right the Masonic Hall. A little beyond, a broad opening shows the Institute, a Grecian building with a somewhat dingy exterior. It contains a large hall, and a very comfortable reading-room. The Institute deserves to be appreciated, if only for the touching coniidence it dis- plays in man's sense of honour. The admission fee is one penny, which vou are politely asked to place in the box on the mantelshelf. High Street is the business quarter of Shanklin, and contains some fine shops. St. Saviour's-on-the-Cliflf is a handsome stone church, with a prominent tower and a melodious peal of eight bells. Close by, and overlooking the Cliff Promenade, is the Shanklin Club, built in the bungalow style, and with a covered balcony, where niembers may sit and gossip and enjoy the sea views. It is bi-sexual as to membership. St. Paul's Churcli, close to the station, has recently been added to, the foundation stone of the extension having been laid " as a commemoration of Queen Victorias glorious reign of sixty years." There are several Nonconformist places of worship, the Congregational Church being the most imposing. Its tower and spire rise to a iieight of seventy-five feet, and the clock is illuminated nightly at the public expense. It remains only to add that the water supply of the town is excellent, and has recently been still further improved by utilising the springs of the neighbouring village of Wroxall. 'I'he streets are lit by electricity. EXCURSIONS FROM SHANKLIN. DISTANCKS. Miles. .Vihs. Arreton 5 N'ewport (rv . Wn.xall ?i Shanklin is perhaps the best centre in the Island loo GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. for the pedestrian. We can give a few useful hints and directions, but to do full justice to the beauties of this south-eastern corner of the Wight would require a separate volume. Some good cycling runs are to be had, but the best " bits " are only to be seen on foot. I.— TO SANDOWN. The cliff w.ilk is described the reverse wav on p. 83. II.— THROUGH THE LANDSLIP TO VENTNOE. Leave the town by High Street. At Crab Hotel turn down Chine Hollow to direction post. Of the three turnings, take the middle one, Luccombe Road (steep, line houses on either side, and, as one gets higher, an excellent back- ward view of the town and bay). The road conies to an abrupt termination, and a gate on right admits to a foot- path, which leads to a house where refreshments are supplied. Shanklin is now lost to view, and we cross Luccombe Common by a rough and stony path, one hun- dred yards from the cliff. Golf Links have liere been laid out. Wagtails and other' wild birds will be seen, and occasionally a rabbit will scamper across the path. We presently reach a gate opening on to a road. Just under the path a stream falls ; this has been the prime agent in the formation of — Luccombe Chine. To see the chine turn seaward to where a stile gives on to a somewhat break-neck path leading to the bottom. The chine is vastly inferior to that of Shanklin, but is honour- ably distinguished amongst chines by there being no charge for admission. Returning to our former path we pass through the gate and wind round a charmingly wooded dell, shortly reaching the commencement of — The Landslip. We are some two hundred feet above the sea, but to the right appears another rough cliff of equal or even greater height, with huge masses like ruined bastions leaning at various angles against the still unbroken range of which they THE LANDSLIP. loi at one time formed part. The tangled brake on either side of the path is strewn with fragments of rociv precipi- tated from the higher cliff, hut Nature, " busy with her hand of liealing," has clad the ruins in a garment of loveli- ness. Chasms, dciis, slopes, and precipices, are alike y. Mi! man Brown A I'ICKP NKAR I.lCCt)MIiK. adorned with Iree^, shrubs, ferns, and wild-llowers, so that— . " Wide as was here the desolation, wide * Is now the beauty showered from side to side." Landslips have occurred here as recently as the early p;ni of the nineteenth century. Hy the kindness of tlie owner visitor^ are free to wander 102 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. at will among the gnarled oaks and tangled hazel thickets, hut they will of course respect the notice as to non- disturbance of game and rabbits. It is easy enough to lose one's way, and if the walk is taken at dusk it is certainly advisable to keep to the path. We presently emerge near the coast, and after skirting the picturesque house and grounds of East Dene, where the poet Swinburne passed a great portion of his youth, reach Bonchurch {sec p. 117). PATH TIlKOHai Tllli LANUSI.Il'. There is lime iu .1 niurning's walk lu see the old church and the pond, and to make one's way to Ventnor station (direction plates show the way), returning by rail to Shanklin. Hut if lunch be taken at Ventnor, the return can be made by Route III. (of course the reverse wav), a simple means of getting on to Boniface Down being by llie path running up from Ventnor station. SHAN KLIN TO VENTNOH. 103 ni. OVER THE DOWNS TO VENTNOR. This is ii glorious ramble, superior, in the opinion of many, even to that through the Landslip. Leave the town by High Street and continue through old village to the church. Follow road leftward, then forward again, road gradually rising, till the first storage reservoir of waterworks is reached, scnne four hundred yards from churcii. Here an ascending path will be noticed on the left, which should be taken, as it leads again into the coach-road to Vcntnor, and saves a long round. Good view of Shanklin from this point. In a few yards the road turns sharply to right by some houses, and in another few yards, opposite a cyclists' warning-board, will be observed a rough bridle-path, on right. The ascent is somewhat stiff, but the road (if such it may be called) is lined with a profusion of wild flowers, and by climbing the steep banks excellent views can be had. Presently a gate is reached, giving on to an upland common, and a plainly delined path will be seen on left. We are now at the sununit of Luccombe Down (760 feet). The view bafifes description, especiallv if the day be clear. At one's feet stretches a deeply-cut valley, through which the scarcely-noticed railway winds its way. On the opposite slope stands Appuldurcombe Abbey, with its hue park, and the conspicuous Worsley Obelisk [see p. 105). Looking in a north-westerly direction, range after range presents itself, and, if fortune favours, there should be a peep of the Solent .'md of the white cliffs beyond Freshwater B.ay, nn whicli stands the Tennyson Cross. To the west, St. ^Catherine's Down stands boldly out, being easily recog- nised bv its lofty pillar [^acc p. 128). At evening the mists hang about the valleys, and the sunset effects are truly beautiful. The air at this elevation is delightfully crisp and clear. Xo one has yet sung the praises of the Isle of Wight heather — in fact, we verily believe that one half the visitors to the I^land towns have not the remotest idea that it is possible in places to walk several miles along heather- clad slopes, rivalling in beauty, though of course not in I04 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. elevation or extent, the heights of North Wales and the Highlands. The path is not difficult to follow, but should it be lost the sea is sufficient guide. Keep almost due south till you find yourself, to your surprise, on the crest of Boniface Down (787 feet), the highest point in the Island, with the chimne3^-pots and terraces of Bonchurch and Ventnor below. The descent of the precipitous down is no child's pki}-, and a fall on the slippery turf might have awkward consequences. One path descends to St. Boniface Road, opposite Trinity Church. An easier descent can be made by keeping to the crest until directly over Ventnor station (Isle of Wight Railway), when a path will be seen with a flight of steps at the bottom. The return to Shanklin can be made either by railway ; through Bonchurch and the Landshp {sec pp. 101-2) ; or by the high-road which the coaches perforce follow, but this is not advised for pedestrians. IV. -SHANKLIN DOWN, ST. MARTIN'S DOWN, COOKS CASTLE, WROXALL, AND GODSHILL. It will, of course, be understood that the routes we give, and particularly footpaths, are by no means the only ones available. The enterprising pedestrian will find all manner of variations possible, but we think it better, for the sake of clearness, to keep to the generallv recognised tracks. The walk about to be described, for instance, can be commenced exactly as No. III., turning to the right instead of to the left on gaining the top of Luccombe Down, and keeping straight on over Shanklin and St. Martin's Downs to the path for Cook's Castle. Reach Shanklin Old Church. Follow path through churchyard to opposite corner where stone steps and a stile give to a footpath slanting sharply to right. The ascent is at first easy, but when the copse is reached a very respectable bit of mountaineering has to be done The rearward view is very beautiful, and in a gap between the hills a stretch of Spithead can be seen. The path skirts the edge of the copse, but the trees are rooted far below at the WROX A LJ.—A PPULDURCOMBE. 105 bottom of the steep escarpment. Shanklin Down is 772 feet hit^h. Continue for some distance till a footpath from the ridge of St. Martin's Down (left) crosses, and you bear to right, entering a wood by a stile at the south-east corner. Here is Cook's Castle, an artiticial ruin, erected, it is said, to improve the view from the mansion of Appuldurcombe. The prospect from the ruins includes the greater part of the island. Several footpaths lead down to — Wroxall. Hotel.— U^/'o,ley, in memory of his ancestor, io6 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Sir Robert. It is of Cornish granite, and was originally seventy feet high, but was struck by lightning in 1831, and a great portion thrown down. It is a conspicuous landmark for many miles around. Train can be taken back to Shanklin. If it is desired to continue the walk, enter the park, and keep to the right- hand road until Frccmautlc Lod^c, with its Ionic gateway, at the other end of the park, is reached. A pretty lane leads in a mile or so to Godshill, where is a station on the Central Railway, by means of which Ventnor can be gained. The return to Shanklin can be made by the high-road, through rustic Sandford to Whitely Bank (cross-roads). Keep straight on, the railway coming quite close on right hand. Where road turns off on right over railway, take this, which is the " New" or Sibden Road and brings one into High Street near Bible Christian Chapel and Post Office. This is a long round of about ten miles, but tiie walk can be conveniently shortened at several points. Cycling Routes from Shanklin. The (Uslniiccs arc for siiii^Ic journey only. I. T(i Sandown, Brading', and Ryde. Eight and a half miles [sec reverse, p. 44L II. To Sandown, Bembridge, St. Helen's, and Ryde. — Tliirtcen ami a i.|u.irtiT miles [see p. 44). III. Tci Ventnor. — The sIkhI dist.ince .very hilly .iiid stuny. Kiiiii- miles. IV.. 'I" Ul 5 < 2g ■J UJ lU t UJ 5 ^ z 1 2 < o UJ cr O Ul ct a. T3 Ul S?- Q 2: 1- :j CO yi O 25 E 3 O -a: o .2 oi o ^ u cu a: .= rt oj ■— O. ,1) « X :^ cfl tn <=> rt ~ 11 c u is Hi o .2 S eiS c ^ 1" z o > « o a o ? S ° O 3 lU 0. t: s u. a a 3 ■sl as u: < m a X When you Visit Vent nor Don't Forget to Visit our Stores Where you will always find the Smartest Value and the most Up-to-Date Goods. HAND.PAENTED VIEW PORCELAIN. China with Ventnor and I.W. Crests. China and Glass of every kind, comprising Toilet, Dinner, Tea, and Breakfast Ware, and Dainty Novelties of all descriptions. Stationery, Leather Goods, Guides and View Books, Artistic Local Views, Hand-painted Plaques, Japanese and Oriental Goods, Copper and Brass, Brushes and Toilet Goods, and all the Latest Novelties as soon as produced. N.B.^AU Goods safely packed for Transit. NOTE ADDRESS WHEELER'S STORES, PIER STREET, VENTNOR, I.W. Isle 0/ H'iglil, h< /ihc p. 109.J y. Miliiiaii R TH1-; W.ATKKI-AI.I., VKNTNok. SECT I OX IV. VENTNOR AND THE UNDERCLIFF. l-"A'TXOK, like the familiar garden Hower, turns always to the sun. If it be objected that a town cannot turn, and that, in spite of popular opinion, it is more than doubtful whether the sunflower really does so, we can only reph' that Ventnor does the next best thing, and contrives better than any other place in F^ngland to get its full share of the beneficent luminary. The liouses rise in terraces one above the other, and all alike have open balconies, wide windows, and the indis- pensable south aspect. Look at a plan of Ventnor : the few streets which run up-hill from the sea are as higgledv- piggledy as well can be : but observe the regularity of the parallels maintained with such difficulty by those which follow the direction of the shore. The town, in fact, is built on the principle of a theatre, so that the occupant 109 no GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. of every scat, no matter how far hack or removed, shall liave a full view of the stage, which in this case is the sea. Looking at the configuration of the ground, it really seems an impertinence to build a town here at all. Here is a hill, something like .eight hundred feet in height, often mist-capped, like a real mountain, running sheer down to the sea in a gradient of about one in four. The foot of the hill is only separated from the shore by a narrow ledge of perhaps twenty feet. Nor is this full exposure to the sunny south, with its accompanying protection from the boisterous blasts of north, east, and west, an attribute of the town alone. From Luccombe on the one hand to Blackgang on the other, a distance of between eight and nine miles, you have the same conditions — high cliffs behind, a ledge or perch, in places of considerable width, upon which the adventurous may build ; then cliffs again, and the deep sea. But always, and this is the point, the full sheltered southern aspect. Ventnor has no need to call herself, as do other resorts, the Queen, King, or Empress of Watering Places. Her title is specific, appropriate, and unchallengeable — " The English Madeira." The reputation of the Undercliff as a snug, secluded region where one may laugh at the vagaries of the English winter, has to some extent militated against it as regards the summer. A conception is aliroad that because Ventnor is warm when other places are cold, it is necessarily more than hot when other places are hot enough. As a matter of scientific fact, which may he verified by any one who takes the trouble to go through the Royal Meteorological Society's reports (Ventnor is one of the Society's principal stations), the average summer temperature is from seven to ten degrees less than that of London and the Midland counties. Several causes contribute to this, amongst them the lofty situation of the town, the prevalence during summer of cool south-west breezes from the Atlantic, to which the town lies fully open, and the shade afforded by the east and west cliffs. The following figures, based on an average of ten years, may be of interest : Ill 112 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Mean temperature, 5172 degrees — Winter, 41 "80 degrees; spring, 49-82 degrees; summer, 6i'3i degrees; autumn, 53'95 degrees. Mean temperature of coldest month (Feb.), 4i'i2 degrees ; hottest (Aug.), 62-47 degrees. During the summer the sun both rises and sets behind the hills in the rear, the district thus getting some two hours less sunshine per day during the hottest months. The same reason reversed gives every minute of the sun's rajrs in the winter, as the sun rises in the south-east and sets in the south-west. Sunshine cannot be guaranteed at Ventnor anv more than elsewhere, but recent statistics prove tiic average annual rainfall to be onlv from 25 to 28 inches. Mr. Edward Miall has, perhaps, put the facts as well as any one : "Ventnor," he says," being a well-known winter ix-treat for invalids suffering from pulmonary affections, is popularly set down as intolerably hot throughout the summer months. For ourselves, we suffered none whatever, no oppression, no fever- ishness, no melting down of bodily substance and strength, no longing to sit, as Sydney Smith expressed it, ' in our naked bones.' The balminess of the air was exquisitely luxurious by night as well as by day, and every breath which the lungs inspired diffused a sense of positive enjoyment through the nervous system. The current opinion about the climate of Ventnor we take to be moonshine. It may not possess all the bracing qualities of the eastern and north-eastern coasts ; but, as to its reputed oppressiveness, we believe it is to be found rather in the imagination of those who have never tried it than in the experience of those wlio have." Of Ventnor as a winter health resort it is not necessary that we should speak, this book being written primarily for holiday-makers. Its reputation is world-wide. As Dr. Bertram Thornton, of the Royal Sea-Bathing Infirmary, Margate, has pointed out, temperature is not the onh^ cri- terion of a winter resort. " The prevailing winds, the daily range of temperature, the rainfall, the relative humidity, the subsoil, vegetation, absence of cloud, and last but not least, the aspect of the locality, and the degree of protection afforded by hills, arc all important considerations." Ventnor will come pre-eminently out of any of these tests. VENTNOR. 113 VENTNOR. Amusements : Bathing^{Mv. Shore mainly shingle. Boating. The sea is much more exposed than at Sandown and Shanklin, and some knowledge of the local currents and reefs is advisable for those who venture far. Sailing boats, 2/6 an hour. Rowing, without man, i,'- ; witli man, i 6 per hour. Coaching. Coaches and chars-a-banc are much in evidence at Ventnor, Routes and fares vary somewhat, according to the proprietor patronised, but the following are usual. I'entnor. Frisliiciilcr Hay. Alum Hav, and the .Yrt'rfte.— Fares : Fresh- water, single, 5 - : return, 6 -. Alum Bay, 6 - ; return, 76. Blackgang, Carisbrookc, and A'tti'/>t>;/.— Fare ; 5/-. Osborne, East and West Caii'es, via Wroxall and Arrcton, returning via Newport and Godshill. -Fare : 5'-. Shanklin, Sandown, Blading, and Ryde.—VMX : 5 . Blackgang, every morning and afternoon. — Fare : Single, i, ; return, 2 -. Carnages— i,ii first hour, 2 6 second hour. Cycling. Good runs are to be had (sec p. 144) and the roads running parallel with the coast are fairly level in places, but in Ventnor itself a cycle is almost as out of place as a gondola. Golf, o-hole golf course on Rew Down, near Isle of Wight Railway station, Steamer trips round the Island, and to Ryde, Southsea. Bournemouth, Brighton, Cherbourg, &c. TennTs Courts in Park. Banks. -Capital and Counties, Church Street ; National Provincial, High Stieet. Climate. — .Stv pp. 110112 and p. 15 Clubs. County and Castle, Belgrave Road ; sailing^ cricket, football, bowling, rowing, and others, all open to visitors. Hotels. Gueens and Esplanade on Ksplan.ide ; Marine and Royal, Belgrave Road ; Crab and Lobster, Grove Road : Commercial and Freemason's, High Street. TempkHWCK— Ray ner' S , Victoria Street : the Solent, Hanibrough Street. Bonchurch Hotel at Bonchurch, just above new church. For r.iritls, see Introduction. Bo.iKDlXU-HoUSES very numerous. Newspapers. — London dailies obtainable soon after lo.o a.m. Isle of Wight Atl.'ertiser (Saty.) ; Isle of Wi^ht Mereniy (Saty.). Places of Worship, with the hours of service on Sundays : St. Catherine's~f<.o. 1 1.0, and 6.30. Holy Trinity— >^.o, 11.0, and 6.30. St. Alban's, Zigzag Road— 8.0, 10.30, 11.15, 3-45. and 6.30. St. Boniface, Bonchurch — ii.o and 6.30. St. Luke's Chapel (Consumption Hospital) — 11.0 and 3.0. Open to public. Baptist, Bible Cliristian, Brethren, C'''ngregational, Primitive Method- ist, Wesley an- all at i i.o and 6.30. Roman Catholic- {^.30, 11,0, and O.30. Population (1901),— s,860. Post Office in Church Street, near St. Catherine's Church. Railway Stations.^Tlie station of the Isle of Wight line ( Ryde direct ) is perched .ibove tilt town, on the Hank of Binif.ice Down. Hotel omnibuses meet the principal trains. The Town station of the Central Co. (Newport, Cowc>-, vVc.) adjoins Steephill C.istle (see p. 117). Reading Room (free after o p.m.) at Literary Institute, High Street. F'ree Library iipeii to residents only. Several excellent Subscription Libraries. Restaurants.— 6((//'s, Pier Street, and others. Steamers. — In the summer there are regular services to Southsea direct, and to Shanklin, Sandown, Ryde, &c. The stranger who arrives in Ventnor by rail will naturally lirst ask how he is to get to the sea. The simplest way is 9 114 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. to go steadily down — where you can go steadily — till you come to it. So long as the course of the road is down- wards, no matter how it twists and turns, you may be sure of being right. The Esplanade. The length of level roadway that does duty for a marine promenade is all too short, even with the recent extension to Collins Point. But, all things considered, the circum- stance that Ventnor has an Esplanade at all is remarkable. The beach, half shingle, half sand, with an occasional admixture of rock, is generally packed with boats and bathing machines, and happy groups of children. Here is the Queen's Hotel, recently entirely redecorated and refurnished. The glass Pavilion, close at hand, was opened' in i8g6, and was at first used as a social club. The streets of \'entnor are now illuminated by means of electricity. The Pier (Toll— One I'ciiiiy, iiioniiiii^ ; Tzcopciicc, evening.) differs very little from the conventional type, but is inte- resting as being, in a small way, an engineering triumph, two previous structures having succumbed to storms. Ample accommodation is provided for calling vessels, and the pier is largely used as a promenade. Some rugged rocks are exposed when the tide is low. The view of the town, with the green bulk of St. Boniface for back- ground, is impressive. The Pavilion, in which an excellent band performs, is not roofed, but is covered during summer with an awning, an innovation which appears to be worthy of imitation elsewhere. Close to the Pier is a small piece of land, known as — The Triangle. Down the cliff a tiny brook tumbles in a series of cascades to the sea. This space has recently been acquired by the town authorities, and its natural advantages turned to the li6 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. best account. Banks of rockwoik, partially masked by ferns and shrubs, have been formed, and over these the stream tumbles melodiously on its way to the sea. Beneath the pathway, on the other side, the level space adjoining the Esplanade has been laid out as a garden, with seats, shelters, lavatories, «&c., forming a delightful lounge within sight and hearing of the sea. No one is likely to perambulate the difficult streets of Ventnor for the sake of doing so, but we may as well give a general outline of the town. The main thoroughfare is a continuation of the high-road from Ryde, Saudown, and Shanklin to Blackgang, and so to Freshwater. Descending the steep slope of one of the shoulders of St. Boniface Down, at the eastern extremity of Bonchurch, near the Bonchurch Hotel, it passes the new church and schools, and then, turning west, forms the main street of Bon- church, having the Pond on its northern side. In its way through Ventnor, this thoroughfare bears a succession of names, and is anything but level or straight. Its eastern extremity is known as Trinity Road, a name which it obtains from Trinity Church ; passing that edifice it becomes High Street, a title which it bears for the greater part of its length ; at the junction of Pier Street it takes the name of Church Street, because St. Catherine's Church (modern and of little interest, enlarged 1897) is its chief feature ; and, further west, from a point marked by a huge mass of rock which appears as if it must fall on and crush the houses opposite, it is called Belgrave Road. At the Marine Hotel, Belgrave Road has, as Tom Hood would put it, " no other side of the road," and the street is here so far above the level of the ocean that the seascape is cine of the best and most extensive of the many to be had la all parts of the town. The Royal Hotel, with its clean front, attractive flower beds, and gaily flying flag, marks the end of Belgrave Road ; and its continuation, leading 10 the public Park, the new Town Railway Station at Steephill, and eventually to Blackgang, is called Park Avenue. ESTABLISHED 18 75. NAT. TELEPHONE, 61X3 VENTNOR. CHAS. MITCPLL & SONS, House & Estate Agents, YENTN^OR, Publish the " Isle of Wijfht Property Gazette and Register" WITH ALL AVAILABLE ISLAND PROPERTIES. SENT FREE ON APPLICATION. YENTNOR. SOLENT TEMPERANCE HOTEL j^nd first-Class hoarding Ssfabh'shnjenf. ONE OF THE BEST POSITIOWS IN YENTNOR. SOUTH ASPECT. FACING THE PIER. VISITORS' DRAWING-ROOM WITH SPLENDID SEAFRONT. EVERY COMFORT. EXCELLENT CUISINE. BOARDING TERMS 30 - to £2 2s. PER WEEK, OR 5/6 TO 6 6 PER DAY. SPECIAL WINTER TERMS. Ask for Town 'Bus at the Station. Miss M. M. MEIKLEHAM, Proprietress. YENTNOR. The royal HOTEL Patronised by the Queen and Royal Family, distinguished English, American, and Continental Families. PUBLIC Drawing, Dining, Coffee, Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Private Suites of Apartments. Sixty Bedrooms. Conservatory, Lawn Tennis, &c., &c. Carriages of all descriptions. Saddle Horses,' Excellent Stabling. High -class Cuisine, Talile d'Hote, Separate Tables. P'rcncii, German, Italian, and Dutch sptiken. TERMS MODERATE Tariff and all particulars upon application. Rc-Biiill, Rc-DccoiiiUd, diid Fiinnsluul l\v Slioolbird & Co. H. CLOOTS, Pkoi-riktor. Isle of Wi/>lit, to face p. ny.] VEXTXOR. 117 Ventnor Park (Open ill All innicr from a.iii to 10 p.iii.) deserves a word. It can be reached eitlier from the western end of the Esplanade by the p;ith which mounts the cliff, or from the two entrances in Stecphill Road. Most public parks are so flat as to require the utmost skill of the landscape gardener to make them in any degree interesting apart from thcii' lloral contents and spaciousness. Whatever fault may be found with Ventnor Park no one can say it is flat. Except in one part, where a tinv strram forms a series of miniature cas- cades, tlK'rc MX' nut a great man}' Howers, but there arc some promising shrubs and trees, notably aspens. Tlie hillside path doubles in places like a hunted liare. The seats on the seaward side command delightful views. There are excellent Tennis Courts, a Boiclitig Green, and a prettv I'lii'ilion with refreshment and cloak rooms. The park is deservedly popular with visitors, and is one of tlie most attractive features of the town. Opposite the Royal Hotel, Bath Road leads down again to the sea ; and on the western side of the hotel the trving ZiGZ.vc. Road climbs the face of the cliff to the north and leads leftward to the Nkwfort Road, near tl)e Cemetery, and rightward to the Isle of Wight Railway Station (for Ryde, &c.). Newport Road is two or three hundred feet above the sea-level, and runs east and west ; its eastern end being known as St. Roxif.vce Road. The station is con- nected- with the High Street by two steep roads ; the older of them, scarcely practicable for vehicles, is called Grovk Road and contains some boarding-houses, and the two join near the original C/vi/' niui I.ohster, with a modern hotel, Cass's, standing in its beautifully kept grounds. A third steep street, Spkixg Hill, connects with St. Boniface Road, which thoroughfare presently joins the main coach- road to Shanklin near the point where Ventnor becomes merged in its neighbour, Bonchurch. The new Post Office is in Churcli Street. In this and the neighbouring streets are the principal sliops. ii8 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT, Bonchurch. [Hotel: Bonchurch. Post Office, opposite Pond.] The East End of Vcntnor corresponds in a way to the West End of London. It is the fashionable quarter, if such a description is not invidious in a locahty every part of which is more or less fashionable. One can hardly accept without reservation John Sterling's desaiption of Bon- ctiurch as " the best possible earthly fairy-land, combining all the varied and fanciful beauty of enchantment, with the highest degree of domestic comfortable reality," still less Dr. Arnold's declaration that it is " the most beautiful thing on the sea coast on this side Genoa," while Miss Elizabeth Sewell's statement, " sometimes it has seemed to me that heaven itself can scarcely be more beautiful," rather lowers one's anticipations of tlie future. But, exaggeration apart, the erstwhile village is certainly one of the fairest spots the average traveller is likely to see in the course of a lifetime. The upper part, which clusters round the Bonchurch Hotel, high up on the slope of Boniface Down, is perhaps the best. Those who climb the irregular Chimney Steps leading up through a fissure in the cliff to the coach road to Shanklin are not likely to forget the experience. The houses are almost lost to sight amid trees and underwood, and have a cosv, sequestered look that justifies in a quite unusual manner the conventional adjective of the house- agents' notice-boards : " This desirable family residence to be let or sold." Ventnor, it should be understood, is a mere child by the side of Bonchurch, which, though now completely modernised, is one of the oldest places in the island. It is said to have been the scene of the early labours of St. Boniface, and a little cove among the rocks on its shore still bears the name of Monks' Bay, from a tradition that it was the landing-place of tlie monks from the Abbey of Lyra in Normandy, who at one time owned a great part of the island. The literary associations of Boncluuch would make an interesting chapter had we the space. Tennyson, before settling at Freshwater, often came, and an amusing story is told that on one occasion his " wide-awake " was seized BoxciirkW'i. 119 by enthusiastic lady admirers and i.nl up into meuKiUoes. The Rev. Wm. Adams, author of that powerfully-written allegory, Tlic Sliiuiow of lite Cross, resided here, and his grave, appropriately shadowed b}' an iron cross, will be found in the now disused God's acre of the old church. The Rev. James White, the "fat contributor" of Punch, also lived liere, aiifl was visited bv both Tiiackerav and HONCHl'RCH POND. Dickens, and by Richard Doyle, John Leech, and other celebrities of the period. Miss Elizabeth Sewell, whose tales for children are so well-known, is another writer whose work is inseparably associated with tlie UnderclilY : while readers of Carlyle's monograph on jolni Sterling will remember the pathetic letters dated from " Hillside, Hon- churcli," when Sterling realised thai the end was fast approaching : I20 GUIDE rO TIIF. ISLE OF WICHT. "I tread tlie common road ink) the i^reat darkness, without any thought of fear, and with very much of hope. Certainty indeed I have none. . . . Heaven hless you ! If I can lend a hand when THERE, that will not be wanting." A plain, slab, with the name and date, " i8 Sept., 1844, aged 38," marks Sterling's resting-place in the old churchyard. Macaulay resided for a time at Madeira Hall, on the road from Ventnor to Bonchurch. Of celebrities in other walks of life, mention must be made of that old sea-dog. Admiral Hobson, \vho was born of poor parents at Bonchurch, and apprenticed to a Niton tailor, from wliom he took the earliest opportunity of running away to sea. His adventurous spirit and readi- ness of resource soon led to promotion, and he was finally knighted by Queen Anne for the exploit of breaking the Vigo boom. One of the things most visitors make a point of seeing at Bonchurch is — The Pond in the main road, the pictures of which somehow strike one as being superior to the real thing, though the real thing is pretty enough. Perhaps it is the murky water that requires distance to lend enchantment to the view. The road is in deep shade, while the opposite side of the water is overhung by a thick bank of graceful willows, firs, fuchsias, and other shrubs and trees. The swans add to the beauty of the picture. Bv turning to the left at the corner where the school looks down upon the road, we reach in a few yards the new or — St. Boniface Church, built in 1S47-8, in Norman style, from designs by Benj. Ferrv. The Rev. W. Adams {see p. 119) was then rector and laid tlie foundation stone, but he died before the completion of the church. The churchyard is so beautiful that Shelley's words have been well applied to it : " It might make one in love with death to think one would be bvjried in §0 sweet a place." The vandalism of certain 121 123 GUIDE TO THE JSEE OE WIGHT. sightseers has led to the churchyard gates being kept locked. Further up the hill is the Bonchurch Hotel, the view from the terrace of which is generally considered one of the finest in the island. Keturning to the lower road, we turn right (seawards) at the school, and almost imnie- diatelv reach — The Old Church, a diminutive Norman building so overshadowed bv elms and covered by creepers and roses as to form an irresistible temptation to the artist and the photographer. It is no longer used for worship. Though now so near tlie sea, old maps show the church as half a mile away. The churchyard contains, as we have already mentioned, the graves of John Sterling and the Rev. W. Adams. The sexton is generally in attendance during the summer months. Continuing past the church we reach in a few yards a path on the left leading to the Landslip (sec pp. 100-2). EXCURSIONS FROM VENTNOR. Miles. 5 io| 12A 61 • 4* 21A Freshwater Bay . . . 20 ! WALKS. To all except the short-winded the first inducement to pedestrian exercise will probably be — I.— ST, BONIFACE DOWN. There are several paths to the summit (787 feet), notably that from the railway station (Isle of Wight Railway). Another way is to gain the top of the Zigzag Road, and take tlie cart-track opposite the cemetery gates. Another path starts from St. Boniface Road, nearly opposite Trinity Church. The view, needless to say, is extensive and delightful. From the summit a clearly de- fined pathway leads eastward to Shankliu Down (reverse DISTANCES. Miles. Arreton n Godshill Bembridge . . . 11* Newport Blactvgang si Ryde liiiiding . . . H Sandown Brixton . 12J Slianklin Carisbrooke iif Sliorwell Cowes 17 Yarmoiitli Uhe ^onc/jurch ^ofel (UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT). '■d .i '■^- -s a ^ Under the Personal Supervision of the . . . Proprietor, A. E. JOLLIFFE. Tdcj^rams : " Hotel Boiiclinnli, Wight." Xut. TclfpUoiie No. 46 Veninor. Isle of Wight, to face p. 122.] The MINERVA LIBRARY NEW SERIES. Large Crown Svo, Art Linen, Extra Gilt, Fully Illustrated, 2/- ♦ r. Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa. With portrait and full-page plates. By David Livingstone, LL.D., D.C. L. 2 A Journal of Researches during the Voyage of H.M.S. "Beagle" round the World. By Chari ES Darwin, M.A., F.R.5., with portrait of Darwin, and other illustrations. 3 Life and Correspondence of Thomas Arnold, D.D. By Akphur Penrhyn Stanley, D.D. With a portrait of Dr. Arnold, and other illustrations. 4 Travels on the Amazon and Rio Negro. By Alfred Russel Wallace, LL.D. With portrait of the Author, and other illustrations. 5 Essays, Historical and Literary. By Lord Macaulav. Fully illustrated from portraits. 6 Lavengro; The Scholar, The Priest, The Gipsy. By George Borrow. IHustraied from portraits. 7 Emerson's Prose Works. With portrait of the Author. 8 Coral Reefs, Volcanic Islands, and South American Qeolojfy. By Charles Darwin, M.A., F.R.S. With various maps, illustrations, and portrait of the Author. 9 The Romany Rye, A Sequel to Lavengro. By George Borrow. Illustrated from oid prints and portraits. 10 The French Revolution: A History. By Thomas Caklylr. With full-page illustrations. 11 Sartor Resartus; Heroes and Hero Worship; and Past and Present. By Thomas Carlyle. Illustrated from photographs. 12 Essays— Biographical, Critical, & Miscellaneous. By Lord Macaulav. Illustrated from photographs. 13 Society in China. By Robert K. Douglas. Illus- trated from photographs. ^ 14 The Bible in Spain. By George Borrow. Illus- trated from photographs. 15 Oliver Cromwell's Letters and Speeches. By Thomas Caulyle. With full-page illustrations. 16 On the Origin of Species : By Means of Natural Selection. By Charles Darwiw, M. A., F.R.S. Illustrated by photogr.iphs. 17 Essays, Civil and Moral. The Advancement of Learning-. Novum Organum, etc. By Lord Bacon. Illus- trated from photographs. iS The Manners and Customs of the Modern Ejfyptians. By Edward William Lank. With 16 full-page plates. London: WARD, LOCK & CO., lAMITED. WALKS Fk'OM \'F.\T\\)h\ 123 (liieclioiis on pp. 103-4). T'losc who climb llir south l';icc ''■ om tlie St. Boniface Road will come, when about three- ourths of the way up, to tlie celebrated Wishing Well, interesting to the geologist from its unusual elevation, and to the lover of old superstitions from the reverence formerly paid to it on account of a popular belief that if one achieved the difficult feat of climbing to tlie spring without looking backward, anv three wishes formed while drinking its waters wmild lu- ^ratitu'd, II.— THE LANDSLIP, LUCCOMBE. AND SHANKLIN. Follow the course of High Street under its various names eastward, past Trinity Church and Bonchurch Pond, till the school is reached, when turn to right past the Old Church, and tlien to left, when the footpath isplainlv seen. This beautiful walk is fullv desciibed on pp. 100-2 of tlie Shanklin section. ni. OVER THE DOWNS TO APPULDURCOMBE. Leave the town bv Zigzag Road, and passing behind Cemetery, mount Rew Down and keep along the ridge until Appuldurcombe Park is seen below. The views during this walk are superb. On the left are Whitwell and Niton, and beyond is tlie extending bulk of St. Catiierine's Down, with its lofty column. To the right are St. Boniface, Wroxall, and St. Martin's Downs. Presently we overlook Godshill with its well-placed church, and, in the distance, can discern Carisbrooke Castle and the towers of Osborne. A descent can be made to Appuldurcombe House (now a Benedictine Abbev), and the return journey varied bv taking the by-road which leaves the park by the Span Lodge, and after passing Rew P'arm joins the main road from Wroxall, entering Ventnor near our starting-point at the Cemeterv. IV. WROXALL TO GODSHILL, RETURNING BY RAILWAY. A pleasant circular trip involving little walking can be made by taking train to Wroxall, walking througli Appul- durcombe Park to Godshill, as directed on p. loA, and returning from (lodshill bv railway to Ventnor. Ill fact, llie ujiiands and valleys immediatelv Ixliiiid \'entiior offer almost endless possibilities in the way of 124 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. excursions, and variations from those suggested can easily be made by means of the map. v.— TO ST. CATHERINE'S LIGHTHOUSE BY THE LOWER CLIFF. Leave the Esplanade at the west end and follow the cliff path below the Park. Steephill Castle and the National Hospital for Consumption will shortly be seen on the right. Steephill Cove, below, with its picturesque fishermen's cottages, will have been noticed from Ventnor pier. We continue past Mount's Bay, with its toy battery, Woody Point and Bav, to Binnel Bay, where it mav be advisable to turn inland to the coach-road. A diioiir to tlic left will conduct to the Buddie Inn and — St. Catherine's Lighthouse, on St. Catherine's Point, the most southerly cape of the island. The apparatus has been described as " the most powerful coast light and fog signal in the world," and is visible at a distance of fortv-two miles. Some even say that it can be distinguished at Cherbourg. The Trinity House " notice to mariners," issued prior to its construction, said that, " an electric light, sliowing one flash of about five seconds' duration every half minute, will be exhibited, and the fog signal will be changed to two blasts — high, low — in quick succession, every minute." The light was displayed for the first time on the evening of May-day, in 1888, with a somewhat startling effect. We are told by a journalist who travelled from London to witness the advent of the new light that — "As the twilight deepened, sixteen separate and sharply de- fined radial beams of light, like the spokes of a gigantic cart- wheel, were seen to be steadily travelling round the horizon. Far as the eye could reach, the electric rays slowly swept the darkening space before us. Now and again a startled bird would flash through the beam, looking like a speck of fire ; while, to turn from the sublime to the ridiculous, the cattle upon St. Catherine's Down, in wild alarm, were scampering about, with tails high in the air, pursued by brilliant patches of light, as the quickly succeeding rays impinged upon the surface of the sloping down." Strangers arc permitted to inspect tlie liglillioiise iliiring tlie ST. CATHERINES IJGHTHOUSE. 125 day time — of course, with some necessary limitations ; and, equally of course, the keepers will not refuse a small "recompense" for their trouble in conducting the visitor over the establishment, explaining things to him, and lend- ing him the black spectacles without which a momentary peep at the electric lamp when in action would result in . blindness. The lamp is of the modilied Serrin-Berjot type, and the carbons emit a light equal to that of thirty-tive J. Mtlman Urolu}! ST. CATHKKlXi; S I.Klll THi USh. thousand candles, giving an iuleusity through the optical apparatus of about seven million candles. The carbon pencils are nearly two and a half inches across. They arc controlled by a duplex arrangement of spring and current ; and the sixtcen-panelled dioptric apparatus is rotated, not by •clockwork, as usual, but by a tiny vertical engine, worked by compressed air from below. The engine-room, to the right of the lighthouse, contains tluxe engines and boilers. Two of tliem arc attached to tlie large dyn imos which generate 126 GtllDE TO THE ISLE OF WICHT. the electric currents (both being kept ready for use, to pre- vent any accident whereby the hght might be even for a moment extinguished) ; and the third is employed to com- press the air for the siren or fog-horn, by which vessels are warned of their danger at such times as the mist obscures the light — a calamity which somewhat frequently happens. If it is desired to continue the walk to Blackgang, either the road or the cliff path may be taken. VI.— TO BLACKGANG BY THE INNER (HIGHER) CLIFF. This is a beautiful walk, one of the best in the Island indeed, to those who are not nervous of heights. If it is taken on a windy day we would strongly advise as head- gear a simple cloth cap. The cliff can be ascended at the top of Zigzag Road. Should the pedestrian find it neces- sary to descend before reaching the end of the walk, he will be able to do so at St. Lawrence by means of the Cripple Patli, or at Whitwell Shute. We pass above Steephill Castle and the Hospital, and presently reach the dimmutive old church of St. Lawrence {see p. 131). Then we descend to Whitwell Shute, and ascend by the Red Gun or St. Rhadagund's Path, past High Hat (488 feet), and keep almost due west. When the road to Newport is crossed, bear to right to a lane running above the Sandrock Hotel, and so to the top of Gore Cliff. The road to Blackgang is struck near the coastguard station. The return journey should be varied by taking the sea- cliff path (Route V.).' VII.— TO NITON AND ST. CATHERINE'S DOWN. A good deviation from Route VI. would be to take the path to Niton which leaves the inland cliff about half a mile before the Newport road is struck. The village can, of course, also be reached by the coach-road. Niton. Hotels.— ffoya/Sandroc/f, Buddie Inn, White Lion. The chief object of interest is the Churcli, with its heavy embattled sixteenth-century tower and squat spire. It contains a medallion of Mr. Arnold of Mirables, bv Flax- mroM. ny man, and the registers, whichldate from 1560, show the following entry : "July the 1st, AiiiHi Domini 1675. Charles II., king ot Great Britain, France, and Ireland, die., came safely ashore at Puckaster, after he had endured a great and dangerous storm at sea. In 1902 a monument was erected on the grave of Edward Edwards, llie pioneer of the public library movement. The inscription reads: — "In memoi'v of Kdward Kdwards, horn in London, Decemlur 14, 1S12, died at Niton, February 7. 18SO. Man of letters and founder (with William Kwarl and Josepli Hrotherlon) of municipal public libraries." The parish of Xiton is an extensive one, and includes some of the most dangerous parts of the coast. It consists of two distinct parts— the village proper, which, except for its surroundings, has notiiing to distinguish it from anv 128 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. ordinary English village, and a more recent settlement on the seashore, which the inhabitants call Undercliff Niton. The source of the Eastern Var is in the parish, a little to the north of the village. A lane in the neighbourhood, which any one will point out, will conduct to the summit of — St. Catherine's Down (781 feet), the second highest hill in the island, being but a few feet less lofty than St. Boniface, at the other end of the Undercliff. The springs of the Medina rise on the northern slopes of the hill. The summit is marked by the Alexandrian Pillar, a column seventy-two feet in height, surmounted by a ball. The column is a prominent feature in the view from everv point, and a well-known landmark. The inscription reads : " 111 commemoration of the visit. of his Imperial Majesty Alexander I., Emperor of all the Russias, to Great Britain, in the year 1814, and in remembrance of many years' happy residence in his dominions, this pillar was erected by Michael Hoy." With a curious lack of appropriateness, this very monu- ment bears on its south face a tablet to the memory of British soldiers who fell in the Crimea, lighting against the " Emperor of all the Russias." Miss Sewell has thus described the view from this point : "The shore is closed in witli rc-d sand-clift's, rather low, broken, and jagged ; but away to the west the red sand changes into chalk, and the cliffs become very steep, and rise to a great height, standing out against the sky when the sun shines on them, until they almost dazzle the eye ; and at other times covering themselves, as it were, with a bhiish veil of mist, and looking out proudly from behind it. . . . Below the ridge the ground is very flat for a long way. From the edge of the cliff' it is level for miles, cut up into cornfields and pas- tures, with a few trees dotting the hedgerows. We can see as far as Newport, and beyond it ; away, indeed, to where the river, which has its source close to us, and is there only a tiny brook, becomes quite a broad stream, and deep enough to float vessels." Not far from the pillar is a still more interesting struc- ture, " a stern round tower of other days," the original pharos which warned mariners of the dangers of this rocky coast. ST. CATHERINE'S DOWN. 129 Mr. Percy Stone, in his Architectural Antiquities of the Isle of Wight, gives some interesting particulars of its history. A hermitage appears to have been founded early in the fourteenth centurv : "Three years after the foundation of this isolated chapel a circumstance occurred . . . explaining very clearly the raisoii d'etre of the still existing lighthouse. One stormy night in the winter of a.d. 13 14, a vessel — one of a fleet chartered by sundry merchants of the King's Duchy of .\quitaine to convey a large consignment of white wine to England — drove ashore on Atherfield Ledge. The sailors escaped . . . and sold the cargo to the island folk — 174 casks of wine, each worth five marks. The merchants took pro- ceedings against the receivers of the stolen cargo, for it clearly did not belong to the sailors, who were, however, apparently not deemed worth prosecuting, even if they could have been traced. One island landowner, Walter de Godeton, was found guilty of receiving 53 casks, and had to pay 227J marks. But another party besides the merchants had to be reckoned with, namely, the Church, for the wine, it appeared, belonged to the religious community of Livers, in Picardy, who had lodged a complaint against De Godeton in the Roman Court. This resulted in the culprit having to build, on the Down above the scene of the disaster, a lighthouse to warn ships, and to found an oratory for a priest to say masses for the souls of those lost at sea, and to trim the light. De Godeton, before 132^, did as he was re- quired, and the existing ruin, repaired at the end of the i8th century, is the relic of his work." At the Reformation, the trifling revenues were seques- trated ; the poor monk ceased his mass, and his lamps no longer shone across the sea where rocks and shoals threatened destruction to the night-faring skiff. For nearly three centuries the spot was unmarked by any friendly light : and we can readily believe that the number of wrecks during that period was appalling. For the beauti- ful coast, so pleasant to travel along in line weather, is cruel and treacherous, pitilessly exacting year by year its tale of seamen's lives. At certain seasons a dense and impene- trable mist arises, obscuring both lights and landmarks ; while, without a breath of wind to fill his sails, and all uncon.scious of danger, the hapless navigator is borne on the rapid inshore current (so powerful that even a Newfoundland dog cannot swim against it) towards the jagged and cruel rocks. These considerations moved the 10 I30 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Trinity Board, in 1785, to rekindle the old light, and to commence the erection of a new pharos (the shell of which still stands), but which was never finished, experience showing that the fogs and mists rendered it almost useless. The present St. Catherine's Lighthouse (see p. 124) was therefore erected on St. Catherine's Point. COACH DRIVES. I— VENTNOR TO BLACKGANG CHINE. This makes a delightful tramp by either Route V. or VI., or by simply following the main road, which, except that it is sometimes dusty from the coach traffic, is equally de- serving of the pedestrian's patronage. The cyclist must perforce go by the road, which, though undulating, presents no difficulty. But the correct mode of getting to Blackgang is per coach or char-a-banc, and competition having reduced the return fare to a matter of two shillings only, this drive may be considered one of the finest and cheapest in the king- dom. Parties are made up at the principal livery stables both morning and afternoon. We leave the town by the Royal Hotel and are quickly bowling along past the public park and the grounds of — Steephill Castle. A glimpse of this picturesque castellated mansion can be had through the trees. The Town Station of the Central Railway occupies the site of the former stables. The house was built in 1831-3 by John Hambrough, Esq. It will be remembered that the unfortunate victim of the Ardlamont fatality, which led to the cause celcbre of a few years back, was a son of a former owner. The late Empress of Austria spent some months here in 1874. The house is now the property of J. M. Richards, Esq., the father of the distinguished lady who writes as " John Oliver Hobbes." We next pass an extensive range of buildings on the opposite side of the roadway. This is — The National Hospital for Consumption, now comprising no less than eleven blocks, the last of which COACH DRIVES FROM VENTNOR. 131 was opened by H.R.H. Princess Henry of Battenberg in August, 1899. A church, services in which are open to the public, forms the centre block. The houses all face due south, overlooking extensive pleasure-grounds, and every- thing possible is done to alleviate the lot of the unfortunate sufferers. Accommodation is provided for 155 in-patients. The hospital is, as its name implies, a national institution, patients being received from all parts of the kingdom, with- out distinction of creed, more than half the number coming from London and its suburbs. About a mile from the hospital a new road has been constructed to avoid a steep ascent on the old one and save a considerable detour. At the sunmiit of the old road (right) is the tiny — St. Lawrence's Church, which contests with one in the Lake District the dis- tinction of being the smallest in England, though it was lengthened ten feet by the first Earl of Yarborough, who was also responsible for the porch and bell tower. A former rector is said to have been killed by striking his head against the lintel of the north door, now built up. Continuing along the main road, we pass the new church of St. Lawrence, and drawing closer to the inland or higher cliff are able to enjoy to the full the spectacle of magnificent chaos it presents. The Undercliff has been described by so many able pens that we have no confidence in our own powers. The description given by M. Villars, a French writer, gives as good an impression as any we have seen : "The broken ground offers a most pleasing and yet very strange appearance, here and there forming hays, caverns and grottos, where thick and tenacious vegetation clings to the side of the cliffs, and covers tlie fallen boulders. The dark green of the ivy is relieved by the bright colours of the roses and wild flowers which grow in abundant and most ad- iy2 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. mired disorder. Deep clefts and piles of stone, caused by the breaking away of the cliffs, are met with at every step ; here is a pyramid, there an enormous rock, whose grey mass throws curious shadows on the green sward. Then the clumps of hawthorn and other trees, such as chestnut and ash, extend their leafy branches far and wide, and have insinuated themselves, one cannot tell how, amidst the grey rocks in sublime confusion." n: U. A-iri &■ Sons,] [C07VVS. A BIT OF THE UNDERCLIFF. As to the causes which led to this extraordinary formation, vvc cannot do better than quote Sir Henry Englefield : "To account in any degree for this singular appearance, it will be necessary to recur to that period, remote beyond all reach of history, when by some convulsions, this island was exposed to the sea in one vast range of perpendicular cliffs, such as would now appear if the whole ITndercliff were removed from the wall of rock above it. The clay and sand strata attacked at their foot by the waves of the sea, in their front by wind, rain, and frost, and above all, softened and washed away by the numerous springs which issue from NOVELS BY E. PHILLIPS OPPENHEIM. The British Weekly says : — "Mr. Oppenheim has bound- less imagination, and distinct skill in story-telling. He paints in broad, vivid colours ; yet, audacious as he is, he never outsteps the possible. There is good thrilling interest in his books, and not a few excellent characters." The Yellow Crayon 6/- A Prince of Sinners 6/- The Traitors 6/- The Great Awakening 6/- A Millionaire of Yesterday 6/- The Survivor 6/- lAs a Man Lives 3/6 A Daughter of the Marionis 3/6 Mr. Bernard Brown 3/6 The Man and His Kingdom ^16 The World's Great Snare 3/6 A Monk of Cruta 3/6 Mysterious Mr. Sabin zl^ LONDON : WARD, LOCK & CO., LTD, THE ROYAL SANDROGK HOTEL THIS Old-Establishcd Charminj^ Family Hotel is situate in one of the most beautiful portions of that tract of land known as the UXDERCLIFF, and is surrounded by some of the Finest and most imposing Scenery in the Isle of Wight, now well-known as " The Garden Isle of Enj^land." The Hotel stands in grounds of a most unique character, laid out in terraces, and entirely shut in from the searching north and east winds, yet open to the invigorating influences of the south and west breezes. From nearly every portion of the grounds extensive views of the English Channel are to be obtained ; and the soft west winds prevailing here during the summer, make the place deliciously cool even in the warmest months. The House is substantially built, and is replete with every comfort and con- venience for Visitors. There is a noble Verandah of 70 ft. in length, the whole being delightfully clad in ivy. The Apartments of the Hotel are in keeping with the surroundings, and are suggestive of comfort and quiet repose. Well appoiattd Lai 1 ki,l;(-> and ,Sai.ldlL ll<>i:-.<_b Imiiu Mables connected with the Hotel. Telegrams — "Sandrock, Niton." Telephone— No. 0^<^. Carriages sent to meet any train by order. From "MADCAP VIOLET," by WILLIAM BLACK. " Seeliided and quiet . . . a quaint little inn, surrounded by sheltering woods and liedges. Tlie sun lavs warm on the smooth green lawn in front, tiiere were dark shadows — ahnost black shadows — along the encircling iiedge, and under the cedars ; but these only showed the more brilliantly the silver lighting of the restless, whirling, wind- swept sea beyond. It was a picturesque little house, with its long verandah half smothered in ivy and rose bushes ; with its tangled garden about, green with young hawthorn and sweetened by the per- fume of the lilacs ; with its jiatches of uncut grass, where the yellow cowslips drooped. There was an air of dreamy repose about the place : even that whirling and silver-grey sea ]iroduced no sound ; here the winds were stilled, and the black shadows of the trees on that smooth green lawn only moved with the imperceptible moving of the sun." Jslc of Wight, to face p. 133] THE UNDERCUFF. i33 under the rock, very soon became incapable of bearing the vast weight incumbent on them. The rocii (divided by numerous periodical fissures) began to part at the fissure nearest to its front, gradually subsided and slipped in an inclined position (or perhaps sometimes, though not often, fell over) until its progress was stopped by the slope of clay on which it moved. But though at rest for a time, the same causes which set it in motion would again press it forward to the sea. Its fall had left a great front of rock and clay bare, while its upper surface formed a basin, in which the waters of the springs collected into a pool, moistening still more effectually the loosened clay below it, which, mixed with fragments of rock detached from the great mass in its fall, and full of interstices formed by the different hardness of its own several strata, was more rapidly washed away than when in its own bed. A second subsidence now took place ; while from above another mass gave way, and by its weight urged the first fallen rock still further towards the sea, whose waves, carrying rapidly away all those parts easily soluble, united with the other causes of destruction to bring down fresh ruins from the cliffs at;ove. In this manner it is evident that the Undercliff was formed, most rapidly at first, but gradually slower as the causes of destruction tended to counteract their own effects ; for, after every subsidence the mass of fallen clay and rock formed itself into a more gentle slope, and which extending higher up against the face of the clay cliff, tended to keep it from mouldering, while the declivity of the slope itself rendered the material already fallen less apt to slide. The action of the sea which washed away the clay from among the masses of rock at the bottom, caused those masses to come into closer contact, and by degrees formed them into a high and strong bulwark, while those rocks which had rolled further out, became long reefs, extending far into the water, and breaking in a great measure the force of the billows before they reached the shore. Vegetation now had time to cover the face of the ruins, and secured the surface of the slope from the effects of rain and frost : while the springs gradually formed regular courses through the little winding valleys among the heaps of ruin. Thus was the Undercliff gradually brought to the state in which we now see it." Although landslips have occurred at the other end of the Undercliff as recently as 1818, and there was a sHp beneath the Gore Cliff in 1799, there can be little doubt that the Undercliff has presented its present appearance for hundreds of years. Notices as to the eligibility of plots of land for building 134 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. purposes meet the eye of the tourist in this region with rather more frequency than he cares about. A sign-post on the left presently directs to St. Catherine's Point, and the coaches often make a slight detour to enable passengers to sec the Lighthouse (.st'C p. 124). We next reach Undereliff Niton {see p. 128), the most BLACKGANG CHINE. 135 attractive feature of which is the charmingly situated Sandrock Hotel, with its ivy-clad verandah. Nearing Blackgang, the curiosity of passengers is likely to be excited by a small temple, which is to be seen in private grounds on the right. In appearance it closely resembles the Burns' memorials so numerous in the " Land o' Cakes." It was erected by Mr. Letts, of diary fame, on the occasion of the tercentenary of Shakespeare's birth. Just before reaching the end of our drive we see on the left a carriage drive which zigzags down the face of the cliff to the Isle of Wight Spa, at Southlands, close to the extreme point of the island. The house was formerly occupied by Df. Pusey, and is surrounded by prettily laid- out grounds, in which is a chalybeate spring that at one time enjoyed considerable repute. The coach shortly draws up at the Blackgang Chine Hotel, near the entrance to — Blackgang Chine. Admission to the Chine is gained by passing through a Bazaar at the top. Here a number of useful articles are displayed (chief among which we may be allowed to mention this little handbook), and visitors have the option of making a purchase or paying an entrance fee of sixpence. People whose idea of an Island chine is based wholly on that at Shanklin will here experience some surprise. A greater contrast could scarcely be imagined, the only feature common to the two being the fact that the cleft in the rocks has been occasioned mainly by a running stream. The chasm does not wind so far into the shore as do those at Shanklin and Luccombe, nor are its sides so steep ; but it is of much greater depth, one of its flanks rising four hundred feet above the level of the sea. No vegetation appears on the surface of the dreary glen, and its sides are continually crumbling. They are composed chiefly of very dark blue clay, through which horizontal layers of yellow sandstone, from twelve to fifteen feet in thickness, extend at intervals, naturally split into cubical blocks, giving the 136 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. front of the rocky barrier the appearance of vast courses of masonry, built at certain heights to sustain the fabric of the mouldering hill. Its tout ensemble has been compared to that of a chasm in the Alps or to the lava recesses at the foot of Etna. The stream (when there is one) flows through it like a silver thread, heightening the sombre appearance of the ironstone and black clay of which the sides of the chine are composed. The paths are kept in excellent order. Many visitors miss what, in our opinion, is the best feature of the chine, namely the Observatory, to reach v^'hich the ascending path on the left should be taken. At the extreme edge of the precipitous cliff a summer-house has been erected, with railed-in seats. On a clear day, the view is- one of the best to be had in the Island. The coast-line of the whole of the back of the Island can be followed, and the Needles plainly seen, while looking further westward the eye distinguishes the coast of Dorsetshire. At the proper season heather is plentiful at Blackgang. The coaches usually stop a sufficient time to allow the chine to be properly seen, and refreshments obtained at the adjoining hotel. II.^VENTNOR TO FRESHWATER BAY. This is a deservedly popular whole-day drive. Cyclists will find all needful directions on p. 144. The first part of the route is the same as to Blackgang. A stranger looking at the map might think that the most direct route from this point would be to follow the road which skirts the coast the whole distance, but this is not practicable, the road being a military one merely. There is nothing, however, to prevent the pedestrian taking this fine ten mile tramp, unless it be the impossibility of obtaining refreshments without turning some distance inland. The geologist will find the numerous chines and ledges in this region a very fruitful field for research. The famous submerged forest or Pine Raft, at Brook Point, and the Wealden formation at Compton Bay are more easily reached from Freshwater. CHA LE—SHORWELL. 137 At Chale then we turn inland. The locality is noted for its bracing climate, and though the village contains at present but little of interest beyond the Chunk, with its massive embattled Perpendicular tower, it is certain to grow. A little east of the village is Chalc Abbey Farmhouse, which is in reality the old Manor House, and bears many traces of an- tiquity, notably the fine buttressed barn and the arched fire- place in the principal room. At the hamlet of Chale G-reen we join the coach-road from Slianklin and bear leftward. Two names of places on the road will remind Londoners of home, namely, Kingston, the next village passed, and Brixton [see p. 139). Shorwell [Inns: Five Bells, Crown.] is pleasantly situated in a valley on the south side of the great central range of chalk downs. A road runs northward to New- port. The Church is worth seeing. It is said to have been built during the reign of Edward III. in consequence of the parishioners having complained that " they had to convey their dead four miles to burial (at Carisbrooke), and in winter, when they were obliged to pass through' the water in Idlecombe Lane, the death of one person was the occasion of many more." The building is mainly Perpendicular, and consists of three aisles. The square tower is surmounted by a low stone spire. The interior contains several curious monuments, the most important being those of the Leighs, who built and formerly occupied the neighbouring mansion of Northcourt (1615). One epitaph runs : " Sixteene yeeres a niaide, tiltie a wife, Make the svm totale of my passed life ; Longe thred, so Hnelie spvn, so fairlj' ended, That few shall mate!) this patterne, fewer mend /(. F. A'. Bioderici.) CHALE CHURCH. [Ky.ir: 138 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. What wealth I lately had, what parentage, What friends, what children in blest marriage — Dead, I forgette ; living, I light esteemed, For thy dear love, O Christ, yt hast redeemed." Some frescoes were discovered on removing the whitewash from the walls. The principal, over the north doorway, is a graphic representation of the legend of St. Christopher, the " Christ-bearer." It shows the saint carrying the infant Saviour across the sea, in one part, and the right-hand side depicts St. Christopher's martyrdom. The characters are in the costume of the reign of Richard II., which is sup- posed to be the date of the painting. The pulpit is of stone, and is entered from the aisle by a flight of steps through a massive pier. The church was restored in 1897. On the down to the right is pointed out a small stone tower, erected to commemorate the daughter of a Mr. Bull, who owned Northcourt early in the present century. The hamlet of — Limerston is interesting on account of its connection with the famous Tichborne dole : In the reign of Henry I., Isabella, heiress of the Limerston manor, was married to Sir Roger Tichborne. When, after a life of great charity, she lay dying she prayed her husband to set aside for the poor as much land as would enable her to institute a dole of bread to all comers to the gates of Tichborne on every successive Lady Day. Sir Roger, according to the tale, took a brand from the hearth and promised her as much land as she could encircle whilst the wood was burning. She caused herself to be carried from her bed to a place still pointed out, and began creeping on her hands and knees. Before the brand was consumed she had encircled a plot of twenty-three acres, still known as the Crawels. The dole, in the shape of i,goo small loaves, was distributed regularly until the end of the last century, and morsels of the bread were kept, it is said, as a sovereign remedy against ague. In consequence of the disorderly rabble who were accustomed to collect at the distribution, money has since been substituted for the loaves. The family of Tichborne will, it is believed, become extinct should any of Lady Isabella's descendants fail to maintain the charity. In another mile we reach — BRIXTON. 139 Brixton, [Inns: New Inn, Five Bells.] a charming village, which we sincerely trust will one day make up its mind how to spell its own name. As long ago as 1491 it was Brixton, but it has since had a fancy for Brighstone, and is still so spelt at the post office, though modern usage seems to favour a reversion to the earlier form. Holiday-makers will note with gladness of heart tliat the village, with its pretty thatched cottages, is as unlike as possible to the great London suburb similarly named. The Church has a massive square tower, with an insignificant steeple, and though of early date has been robbed of most of its interest by the ruthless hand of the "restorer." The arcade between the north aisle and the nave is Transitional Norman. The registers date from 1566. By far the most interesting thing to be noted in connection with the church is that no less than three of its former rectors have been men who subsequently made I40 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. their mark as bishops. It is only necessary to mention the names of Ken, Samuel Wilberforce, and Moberly. In the life of Ken, Brixton is described as " a cheerful little village, on the sunny side of the Isle of Wight, sheltered from cold winds by overhanging hills, with a goodly church and a near prospect of the sea." It might have been added that the creeper-covered rectory, with its sheltering elms, is also " goodly." Brixton makes a very fair centre for holiday-makers of quiet tastes. The coast is only a mile distant, and any number of charming rambles are to be had, such as that over the downs to Calbourne. Mottistone possesses a fine Tudor Manor House, formerly belonging to the Cheke family, one of whose members (Sir John) was tutor to Edward VI., and the first Regius Professor of Greek at Cambridge. He is alluded to in Milton's Sonnets : "Thy age, like ours, O soul of Sir John Cheke, Hated not learning worse than toad or asp, When thou taughtest Cambridge and King Edward Greek." The Church is chiefly Perpendicular, but calls for no remark. To antiquarians the village is of considerable interest on account of the proximity of the famous Long Stone. We transcribe the Rev. E. Boucher James's note thereon (Letters relating to the Isle of Wight) : " On the side of the hill above Mottistone, along a hollow way shaded with low and aged oaks, which leads through the valley between the chalk strata and the greensward, a natural ridge is reached, where " 'Tinted by Time, a solitary stone On the green hill of Mote each storm withstood Grows dim with hairy lichen overgrown.' Peel — Fair Island. "This is the 'Long Stone,' a huge, rough, quadrangular pillar of iron sandstone from the lower green sandstone formation, with a recumbent stone of similar dimensions at four feet distance. It is, perhaps, the earliest monument of man's construction in the Isle oi Wight." At Brook House the road turns left and right, the left branch leading to the sea-coast village of — BROOK. 141 Brook, one of the most important lifeboat stations in the island. Close to Brooke Point, but largely covered with sea- weed, zoophytes, &c., is the Pine Raft, a submerged forest, composed of the mineralised trunks of conifers which, according to Mantell, were " transported from a distance by the river which flowed through the country whence the Wcalden deposits were derived, and became sub- merged in the sand and mud of the delta, burying with it the bones of reptiles, mussel-shells, and other extrane- ous bodies it had gathered in its course." The coach road turns rightward past the Church, which dates only from 1864, the old building having, with the exception of the tower, been burnt down in the pre- ceding December. For some miles now we have had glimpses of the white cliffs of Freshwater Bay, and from the summit of Brook Down the outlook can only be described as glorious. The road is due west now, with heather-clad hills still hiding the southern sea, but to the right the eye ranges over nearly level ground to Yarmouth and the sparkling Solent. After skirting Afton Down we bear leftward to Freshwater Bay (see p. 153), where the coach stops. To reach the Needles follow the roadway skirting the stables of the Freshwater Bay Hotel, till it leads to a path commencing at the redoubt. Keep to the cliff, past the Tennyson Cross, for some three miles till tlie famous rocks are ben,eath you. There are also very popular coach drives from Ventnor to Shanklin, Sandown, and Ryde ; and to Cowes, via Wro.xall and Arreton, returning via Newport and Godshill, but all these places are described elsewhere. Ventnor to Newport by Rail. This new branch of the Isle of Wight Central Railway was opened for public traffic as far as St. Lawrence in July, 1897, and to Ventnor in June, 1900. It opens up to the tourist an interesting and formerly overlooked region. 142 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. besides effecting a saving of five miles on the other route to Newport via Sandown. It is of great service to Ventnor visiters who use the Southampton-Cowes route. Leaving the terminus at Steephill the line runs above the grounds of Steephill Castle, and thence parallel with the coach-road to St. Lawrence station. Here it tunnels under the Downs for 620 yards, emerging near that part which bears the euphonious but inexplicable title of " High Hat." Then it turns northward, descending by gentle gradients to— 'Whitwell, the station at which village serves also for Niton. The view westwards is very delightful. Whitwell is a pleasantly situated spot, with a Church of more than ordinary interest. It possesses a double chancel, and was, indeed, at one time, two separate chapels — that to the north, dedicated to St. Rhadegund, belonging to the parish of Gatcombe ; the other being a chapel of ease to Godshill. Close to the station is the Yarborough Arms Hotel. A run of two and a half miles througli pleasant pasture land brings us to — Godshill. [Hotel : eWffi/J.] Never was a place more happily named. The picturesque church is set on a hill and seems to cast at once its shadow and its sanctity on the cottages which cluster round it. The Church is not a part of the village, it is the village, in the sense that the latter is inconceivable without it. The church tower dominates the landscape. Tradition has it that the foundations were first laid at the foot of the hill, but invisible hands at night removed them to the top. Hence we have "God's Hill" and the "Devil's Acre." The Church was one of tlie six given by William Fitz- Osbornc to the Norman abbey of Lyra, and was probably founded by him. Visitors arc expected to contribute sixpence each towards the restoration fund. The present building dates from the first part of the fifteenth century. The interior contains numerous memorials of the Worsley family, of Appuldurcombe, and also a replica of Rubens' famous GODSHILL. 143 " Daniel in the Lion's Den." At Merstone Junction vvc join the line from Sandown (st'^ p. 89) and quickly reach Newport, the great railway centre of the Island. Cycling Routes from Ventnor. I. To Ryde 'ria Wroxall and Newcliurcli, back I'/a Brading, Sandown and Shanklin. — Total distance about twenty-five miles. S((' pp. 44-45. II. To Freshwater Bay, I'ia Chale, Shorwell and Brixton (twenty miles, single journey only). Leave town by Undercliff fk' JB l^g^ir'tfff^. "^j^^E^d Q^iu ^B^^P^''^- ■^ m^S^'- '^' iffi^^B^^B »^pr ^j^^mBi P^!?^i:':- -■■*■■■' ^^^^^^ i^H 'y. Afiljftati Rrcnvn,"] GODSHILL. Koad and continue past St. Lawrence and Undercliff Niton to Blackgangand Chale. At church turn to right for one and a half miles to Chale Green (Star Inn). Hence follow Route VI. under Shanklin {sec p. 107). III. To Yarmoutli (twenty-two miles). Same as Route II. as far as Afton F"arm, where turn right instead of left. IV. To Newport via Whitwell and Godshill (eleven miles). The new road between Ventnor and Whitwell has robbed this route of its former terrors, but it still requires care, and entails some toil. Instead of proceeding to St. Lawrence as formerly, walk up the Zigzag Road and follow its convolu- 144 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. tions to the fork, when bear to left up steep ascent to junction of roads, when Whitwell will be seen below, and the road is unmistakable. Almost due north to Godshill, following the course of railway. Thence as Route V., p. io6 IVa. There is another route to Godshill via Whitely Bank, for which proceed due north from top of Zigzag Road, and continue through Wroxall, turning left at Whitely Bank for Godshill. . Mi! man /jfoii [S/titiii/i'i. STILL WATERS. F. Frith i~ Co., !.td..\ ARCHED AND STAG ROCKS, FRESHWATER BAY. [Reii^ale. SECTION V. THE FRESH-WATER PENINSULA. UT for the narrow stretch of shore at P'reshwater Bay, the western end of the Island would be completely insulated by the River Yar, which has its source so close to the Channel that, as Thorne says, "in stormy weather the sea has been seen to break over the' narrow ridge of separation and mingle its salt waves with the fresh waters of the river-head." Hence, perhaps, the name " fresh water." The stream flows almost due north, forming for two-thirds of its course a broad estuary, which at high tide is passable enough, but best not seen under other conditions. In fact, there would seem to be an opportunity for doing here on a smaller scale what has already been successfully accomplished at Brading, though it is more than doubtful whether the land so reclaimed would repay the expense. When the mud banks of the Yar have been described, all has been said that can II 145 146 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. be said against this hitherto secluded western peninsula, hallowed for ever to English-speaking races by its long association with the late Poet Laureate. An American writer has well said (Century Magazine, December, i^ " If Freshwater has suffered somewhat since Tennyson went to live there, it is infinitely richer for the legacy he has left it. His memory exalts all that is permanent of its old beauty. The village has altered, but the beautiful swelling downs remain ; the little sedge-embroidered Yar still makes seaward as it did half a century of summers ago ; and at Farringford, the poet's home, all remains as he left it. The personal memories which still linger in the neighbourhood must die out one by one as the people of his time pass away ; but meanwhile his portrait hangs in most of the old cottages. The village folk have quaint personal recollections of the great man who lived among them wrapt in a sort of mystery, and a few of those who were privileged to be his intimate friends still reside in the neighbourhood." There is every indication that as time goes on Fresh- water will become another Stratford-on-Avon, drawing pilgrims from all parts of the world. Tennyson himself would hardly have desired this, and during his lifetime was certainly at no pains to conceal his repugnance to anything of the kind, but the penalties of greatness have to be paid. Yarmouth is the port of entrance to this delightful region of bracing uplands and leafy by-ways, but Freshwater, where the railway terminates, must be considered its capital. Lymington to Yarmouth. Though not used to anything like the same extent as the routes to Ryde and Cowes, there is a good deal to be said for this service, and it is an undoubted convenience to visitors from the West of England. The boats run in connection with the principal trains from Waterloo ; the route from London being the same as for Cowes as far as Southampton, but instead of running to the Docks station at that town, the trains proceed to West End ; and after skirting Southampton Water run through the beautiful New Forest U) Brockenhnrst (see our companion Guide to Bournenioiitli and tlie Xeic Forest.) Through carriages for Lymington are attached to the principal traius from London, thus saving the change at Brockenhurst. The steamer pier at Lymington adjoins the station. The actual sea passage, after the vessel has threaded the shoals, is very .short. If tlic proposed Solent Tunnel YARMOUTH. 147 [see p. 4) is constructed this route will he much more used. The visitor may also reach Yarmouth and Freshwater I'id Ryde or Cowes, by means of the Newport'Freshwater branch of the Central Railway. One train from Victoria enables the through journey to be accomplished all the year round in about four hours. YARMOUTH. Places of Worship, with the hours of service on Sundays :-^ St. James's Church — 11.0 and 6.30. 1 Wesleyan — 10.30 and 6.0. Baptist — 10.30 and 6.0 Bible Christian — 10.30 and 6.0. Brethren^S.o and 6.0. | Hotels.— P/er, Quay Street ; Bugle, The Square ; King's Head, Quay Street Several Refreshment Rooms. Post Office at grocer's shop in Quay Street. Railway. — Yarmouth is placed within easy reach of all parts of the Island by a station on the line running from Newport to Freshwater. Carriages are generally waiting outside the station. ^ Boating and Bathing — good. DISTANCES BY ROAD. Miles. Newport . . . . 10 Cowes . . . . II* Miles. Alum Bay (by coast 5) . 4J Freshwater Bay . . 3i Totland Bay ... 2% There is not much to see in Yarmouth, but what there is is worth seeing, for the town has a historic past, with which its antiquated a^r is quite in keeping. It received its first charter as long ago as 1135, and has twice experienced the felicity of being burnt by the French. The Castle, a portion of which still stands on the eastern side of the harbour, was erected by Henry VIII. to prevent further attentions of the kind. It is now leased by the Commis- sioners of Woods and Forests to the proprietor of the Pier Hotel. Yarmouth was one of the " rotten boroughs" disfranchised by the Reform Act of 1832. From the year 1304 it sent two representatives to Parliament — elected sometimes by as many as nine voters, at others by only two. It was " near Worsley's Tower in Freshwater Isle, a little bcN'ond Yarmouth Haven," that Charles I. and his attendants waited on the dreary shore for an hour, before being placed on board the small sailing vessel which conveyed them across the Solent to his temporary prison in Hurst Castle. The Church, with its ungainly tower, was erected by 148 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. public subscription about 1614. A brief, dated 161 1, sets out that from the period of the destruction by the French in 1377 " there remains only-the ruined chancel of one of the churches, and the town being unable from its own resources to erect and fit a 'decent church," the charitable y. Milman Bro-wn,'] [S/ia>ttH>t. THE HOLMES STATUE, YARMOUTH CHURCH. devotion and liberal contribution "of the King's loving subjects throughout the realm is requested towards the new building and re-edifying of the said Church of Yarmouth." There is little of architectural interest in the church, but YARMOUTH. 149 it is frequently visited on account of the colossal white marble Statue of Sir Robert Holmes, in the tiny chapel to the south of the chancel. Hohnes is Yarmouth's hero, and his career may be com- mended to historical novelists in search of a new theme. Of Irish descent, he commenced life as a soldier of fortune, servinj^ in the navy after the Restoration. His plucky capture of a Dutch vessel off the coast of Guinea supplied the gold from which the first guineas — so named in consequence — were coined. Drj'den, in his Annus Mirabilis, refers to " Holmes, the Achates of the General's tight. Who first bewitched our eyes with Guinea gold." His exploits in Africa, America, and the Baltic led to his knighthood. He was Captain of the Wight from 1667 to 1692. The best tale told about him is coiuiected with this very statue. Even a poor judge of such things can see at a glance that this is no ordinary piece of work. It is said that the unfinished statue was intended to represent Louis XIV., and was being conveyed by the sculptor in a French ship to Paris, in order that the artist might model the head from the living subject. Holmes captured the vessel, and conceived the brilliant idea of compelling the artist to com- plete the work with his (the Admiral's) likeness, instead of that of Ic Grande Monarqiie. The old fellow seems to wear a grim smile as he thinks of the joke, but as the head is undoubtedly of inferior workmanship to the body, the artist may have felt that he had his revenge. The Pier Hotel (formerly the George), occupying the site of Holmes's historic mansion, has recently undergone exten- sive alteration, a new front wing facing the pier having been added, and the hotel adapted generally to present-day requirements. The lawn provides a pleasant outlook across the Solent ; and there is access from it to the old Castle. This improvement, and the pretty Solent Yacht Clubhouse on the opposite side of the pier, have made the approach to Yarmouth by water much more attractive than formerly. The harbour affords capital shelter to small yachts, and yachting men now enjoy the hitherto unobtainable advantages of a good hotel and a convenient clubhouse. Unassuming, but powerfully-equipped, forts crown most of the heights hereabouts, and Tommy Atkins is in consc- I50 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. quence a familiar figure. We are not in the secrets of the War Office, but we should conjecture that this corner of the Island is about the most carefully defended portion of our coasts, as, indeed, it needs to be considering its proximity to Southampton, and to the great naval arsenal and dock- yards at Portsmouth. Every acre of the bed of the sea is mapped out, and it is only necessary for the officer in charge of the forts to touch a key to explode submarine mines that would blow up a whole fleet. Even if the enemy escaped the mines, he would have to run the gauntlet of the long lines of forts that command the Solent on both sides for its entire length. The Causeway [Tolls : Pedestrians, id. ; carriages and cycles, 3d. ; motor-cars, 6d.] is gained by a drawbridge over the Yar. There must be at least a quarter of a mile of it, and the prospect at low tide probably inspired the remark of that American visitor who described Yarmouth as " the scrapings of the pot of creation." It is very interesting to stand on the bridge and watch the great liners and other craft making for Southampton. YARMOUTH TO FRESHWATER. If a train is due we can save a not particularly interesting walk to Freshwater village. Brakes also run : fare one shilling. Those who walk must keep over the causeway to— Norton, a cluster of villa residences on the western side of the Yar, with a rural post office. Colwell Bay can be reached if desired by bearing to the right and following the military road round the shore. Our road bears left, and steadily ascends. We shall probably remark that Yarmouth looks better at a distance. At the first cross-roads, turn right for Colwell Bay, Alum Bay, and Totland Bay, but for Freshwater keep straight on. The roads hereabouts are somewhat confusing, and if any doubt is felt we advise early inquirv. SAUNDERS' TEMPERANCE HOTEL AND FIRST-CLASS BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT. FACING THE SEA AND DOWNS. Easy access to all parts of the Island. Special Train from Waterloo via Lymington. C. SAUNDERS, Proprietor. Telephone No. : Freshwater 14 ; Totland. L« C. E. DREWETT A^ numbers, -Rovers, j Sunbeams, . Singers and Star. ft^ Our Own Make. . kCrX The "ROYAL * HOTSPUR" Cycles. sK BUILT THROUGHOUT ON THE , O' / PREMISES. ^7 v^ Opposite 7{ailway S^oh'on, ^veV/FRESHWATER, & YARMOUTH, I.W. Motors & Cycles for Hire and Stored. Repairer to the C.T.C. PETROL AND MOTOR OIL SUPPLIED. in a.) fi T^ ,r*, ^ 15 ^ — C ii O 4-1 -!-> 03 ca O oJ .5 >_ '^ :- O C rt I— r- (-■ C* *-' § ^ == I a; -o '^ «3 .5 z: H <=> 5 u. — Ifc -J — cu ex £U < < J- /s/« o/ Wight, to face p. 151.] FRESHWATER. 151 FRESHW^ATER. Omnibuses from Railway Station to Totland Bay or Freshwater fiay, sixpence ; ti) Alum Bay, one shillinj;. Places ofWorship, with tire hours of service on Sundays : — All Saints' Church— ii.o and 6.30. Roman Catholic — 9.0, 10.30, and O.c Congregational — ii.o and 6.30. Wesleyan — ii.oand6.o. Plymouth Brethren — ii.oand6.o. I Frcslnvater is fast increasing in importance, and with its numerous outposts— Sf//oo/ Green, Pound Green, Norton Green, and the rest — is almost entitled to rank as a town. It is important to say at once that it is situated at least a mile inland, and must not be confused with Freshwater Bay, its extension on the coast. The principal hotels are at the latter place, but comparatively inexpensive apartments are to be had in the village and the surrounding hamlets. A proposal was made, but has now apparentlv lapsed, to carry the railway further westward to Totland Bay. Mean- time, Freshwater enjoys the distinction of being the ter- minus. Those who have only a few hours to spare and wish to see something at least of all the places of note in the locality, cannot do better than hire a carriage. The pedes- trian is likely to lose time in finding his way, and our impression is that the cyclist will not appreciate either the surface of the roads in places or their sudden turns. The parish Church of Freshwater is about a quarter of a mile from the railway station, the tower looking down on the sleepy village street. From the exterior one would never judge the building to be of any great antiquity, but it was one of the six given by William FitzOsborn to the Abbey of Lyra. In 1873 new aisles were erected and the chancel extended, thus almost enclosing the older building. The tower is thirteenth-century work, the battlemented portion being probably added some two centuries later. It contains a melodious peal of six bells and a striking clock. The Norman doorway of the nortli porch is conjectured by Mr. Perc)^ Stone to have been the chancel arch of the lirst building erected on the site. A tablet commemorates Lionel Tennyson, who was born at Farringford, and died on iiis way home from India in April, 1886. " In iKUintsDtjungle-poison'dair.Tlic flame of life went llickerinj^ down " 152 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. The beautiful statue of St. John, by Miss Mary Grant, near the communion table, was also erected by Lord and Lady Tennyson in memory of their son. Later, Lady Tennyson was herself laid to rest in the churchyard. Farringford, where Tennyson came to live in 1852, and where so much -^^ Ir ^ a«^^' ^^3 R:^^"r $ 5 feW^/ „,1 III - ■ 4 wm- JH \Ryde. FARRINGFORD. of his best work was done, stands in a leafy lane, close to Stark's Hotel, which any one will point out. The house is almost completely hidden from the road by elms and firs. " While not possessing any architectural pretensions," says Dean Church, " the house has something singularly attrac- tive about it. Not the least of its charms are the creeping plants which clothe it frorn roof tree to foundation wjth a FRESHWATER BAY. 153 mantle of green." In front stands an enormous ilex, and it is easy to understand how in winter the poet loved " To trace On paler heavens tlie branching grace Of leafless elm or naked lime ; And see my cedar green, and there My giant ilex keeping leaf, When frosts are keen and days are brief.' His well-known invitation to Maurice to come " Where, far from noise and smoke of town, I watch the twilight falling brown, All round a careless-order'd garden, Close to the ridge of a noble down," was written just after Maurice had been expelled from his professorship, and would be in a mood to appreciate a spot where " You'll have no scandal while you dine. But honest talk and wholesome wine. And only hear the magpie gossip. Garrulous under a roof of pine. For groves of pine on either hand, * To break the blast of winter, stand ; And further on, the hoary Channel Tumbles a billow on chalk and sand." A small black gate gives on to a lane running through the estate, and in a few hundred yards this is crossed by a rustic bridge, known now as Tennyson's Bridge {see illus- tration on p. 205), where the poet would often stand and meditate. FRESHW^ATER BAY. Hotels.— fres/)kvafer Bay, Albion, -dnd Saunders' Temperance, facing sea ; Stark's, at Easton, towards Freshwater village. Bank.— Cap/(a/ and Counties. Bathing. — K.iir. There are a number of machines. Golf Clubs.^r/ie /Veed/es (links at Alum Bay), and Fres/iwafer (links on Afton Down). Both nine-hole courses. " Our young sea village " is as delightful and bracing a spot as one could wish to settle in. Building is proceeding apace, but casual visitors must not infer from tlie apparent newness of the majority of the villas that they are all the growth of the last year or two. The air is so transparently clear, so free from smoke and grime, that it seems to be a matter of some difficultv to tone the houses down to a ^54 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. respectable dulness. Some of the gardens are entrancingly pretty. The beautiful, though tiny, bay is unlike anything else in the Island. Evidently at one time it was non-existent, and the towering cliffs presented an unbroken front to the ocean. Now the former boundary is marked by huge half- sunken rocks over which, when the wind is in the right quarter, the surf dashes wildly. This is the spot to stand — " Listening now to the tide in its broad-flung shipwrecking roar, Now to the scream of a madden'd beach dragged down by the sea." Freshwater Cave, beneath the redoubt on the western side of the bay, can be explored at very low water. It is about a hundred and twenty feet in depth and thirty in height. The celebrated Arched Rock and the Stag Rock cannot fail to be seen. They undoubtedly once formed part of the cliff, and it is curious to notice how the little patch of grass on the top of the latter still survives. EXCURSIONS FROM FRESHWATER BAY. DISTANCES. Freshwater Station Alum Bay . Totland Bay Miles. 2i Colwell Bay Yarmouth Ventnor (via Brixton) Miles 3i I.— TO THE NEEDLES AND ALUM BAY BY BOAT. A trip hardly to be equalled anywhere round our coasts, except at Flamborough Head, can be had by sailing from Freshwater Bay, round the Needles, to Alum Bay, or at least as far as Sun Corner. The steamers, doing the trip round the Island often come very close inshore, but to fully appreciate these majestic and dazzling chalk cliffs more leisure is required. Needless to say, wind and tide must be carefully watched, and it would be madness to venture out without someone possessing knowledge of local currents. Neptune's Cave, two hun- dred feet deep ; Bar Cave, ninety feet deep ; French- man's Hole, so called because a fugitive Frenchman once concealed himself in it, and was starved to i death ; Lord Holmes's Parlour and Kitchen, in tjie former of which, 155 156 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. tradition says, the gallant admiral entertained his guests, while he kept his wines in the other ; Roe Hall, six hun- dred feet in height ; and two singularly shaped masses of chalk, named the Wedge Rock and Old Pepper Rook, are passed in succession. Main Beach is the name given to the lofty cliffs at the western extremity. The Grand Arch (200 feet) is one of the finest natural arches on our coasts. The cliffs are the haunt of countless sea-birds — herring-gulls, puffins, razorbills, guillemots, &c. — though we fancy their numbers have considerably decreased of late. The best time to sec them is in May, when the birds are build- ing. The natives descend the face of the cliff by means of a rope attached to an iron bar firmly driven into the ground, and thus collect the eggs. A ludicrous incident connected with Scratchell's Bay is furnished by the tradition that John Baldwin, of Lymington, having heard his wife threaten to dance over his grave, in his will ordered his corpse to be thrown over the cliffs here into the sea, a direction which was literally carried out. We round the Needles {see p. 158), with the Lighthouse on the furthest point, and, veering eastward, are in the com- paratively smooth waters of Alum Bay. The long and fairly regular stretch of white cliffs is succeeded near the pier by the well-known series of coloured sands. II. TO AFTON DOWN, COMPTON BAY, &c. No directions are necessary. Climb the cliff on the eastern side of the bay, and proceed as far as you care to go. You will not readily turn back. The views, especially over the Solent, with the New Forest as background, are superb. The road can be used by light vehicles. At Brook Point is the Pine Raft {sec p. 141). ni.-TO THE TENNYSON CROSS, THE NEEDLES, AND ALUM BAY. At the entrance to Freshwater Bay Hotel, keep straight on. Opposite the Redoubt a footpath will be seen. After a short climb are are on " the ridge of a noble down," hitherto known as High Down, but more often referred to now as " Tennyson's Down." The view embraces at least half the Island, from Cowes on the one hand to St. Catherine's on THE TENNYSON CROSS. 157 the other, and a considerable portion of the opposite coast. It is interesting to contrast the pleasure craft frequenting the narrow Solent with the great ocean-going vessels making for Southampton and London. Hurst Castle, with the long projecting beach at the edge of which it stands, seems to lie at one's feet. Forts arc seen on every hand. In the hollow beneath, a glimpse is had of Farringford House. y. .\filiitan Br(nv>i,] {Shanklin. THE TENNYSON CROSS, FRESHWATER. "Thou bring'st the sailor to his wife, And travelled men Irom foreign lands." The Tennyson Cross stands on the spot formerly occupied by the Nodes Beacon. It is of Cornish granite, and nearly thirty-eight feet high. An inscription on the east face runs : " In Meinorv of ALFRED LORD TENNYSON this Cross is Raised. A Beacon to Sailors. By tile People of Freshwater and other Friends in England and America." 158 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. The monument was unveiled on the 8th of July, 1897, by Dean Bradley, accompanied by the late Archbishop of Canterbury. In fair days and foul Tennyson was accus- tomed to make a daily pilgrimage to this spot. He would sit for hours gazing out to sea, his big, black, broad-rimmed hat and his military-looking cloak wrapped about the tall, bent form, making him a picturesque figure, familiar to every one in the vicinity of his beloved home. After another two miles further progress is barred by the omnipresent " W. D.," which, being interpreted, means War Department. The fort that stands on the outmost edge of the cliff, directly above the Needles, has been found to be insecure, and another more modern and power- ful one has been erected farther back. We prefer the view of the Needles from near the first-named fort to any other. The name Needles is derived from a tall, slender pinnacle about 120 feet high, which fell in 1764. Two pictures dating from the middle of last century exist in which it is shown. Turning to the right we drop down into — Alum Bay. [Hotel : The Needles.] This spot has the somewhat singular property of look- ing different every time one sees it. In the sunHght, with the waves sparkling and the hues of the coloured cliffs intensified, Alum Bay makes one impression ; seen again, when clouds lower, and the wind whistles down the gully, when the purple heather has turned to brown and the old pier creaks as the breakers dash upon it, Alum Bay is another place entirely. The Cliffs are best seen from the deck of a steamer. We cannot do better than quote Englefield's description : " The tints of the cliffs are so bright and so varied that they have not llie aspect of anything natural. Deep purplish red, dusky blue, bright ochreous yellow, grey nearly approaching to white, and absolute black, succeed each other, as sharply defined as the stripes in silk ; and after rains, the sun, which, from about noon till his setting, in summer, illuminates them more and more, gives a brilliancy to some of these nearly as resplendent as the bright lights on real silk." i6o GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Thousands of excursionists come here from Bourne- mouth and Southampton and from various parts of the Island in the course of a year. In the wooden house by the pier light refreshments can be obtained, together with souvenirs, in the shape of paper-weights and orna- ments filled with the coloured sands. The Needles Hotel, at the head of the ravine, is comfortable ; special arrangements are made for parties. Headon Hill, which separates Alum and Totland Bays, rises to a height just short of four hundred feet. Its rounded form is gene- rally heather-clad. An attractive residence of the bunga- low type stands on the slope, facing the hotel, and at the summit there is the inevitable fort. It is possible at low tide to scramble round Heatherwood Point to Totland Bay, but this is not advised, the path over the brow of the hill affording a safer and far more enjoyable route. Those who drive must perforce turn inland and take the road skirting the east side of the hill. Totland Bay. Approach {vide hotel prospectusl : "The most direct way to Totland Bay is by the L. and S. W. Railway, from Waterloo Station I'/d Lymington. Passengers arrive at Yarmouth (which is a short drive from Totland Bay) by steamer, but during the summer months, and at Easter and Whitsuntide, the L. and S. W. steamers run to the Totland Bay pier also. An omnibus for Totland Bay during the winter months and carriages all the year round, attend the arrival of steamers at Yarmouth." KoteV— Totland Bay. Omnibus to and from Freshwater station, four times daily, sixpence. Steamers come from Yarmouth and other parts of the Island, and from Bourne- mouth, Southampton, Portsmouth, &c. Bathing, Boating, and Fishing — good. DISTANCES. Miles. Mile Alum Bay . li Carisbrooke Castle II Freshwater Station . li Newport . 12 Freshwater Bay 2 Cowes i6 Needles . 2 Ryde 19 Yarmouth 3 Ventnor . 20 Totland Bay, with its imposing hotel, is rapidly increas- ing in popularity, and if the railway ever comes to it; will doubtless develop into a considerable town. The air is 12 161 1 62 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. peculiarly bracing, and though partaking of the softness of that of the Undercliff, has none of its relaxing quahties. This is not surprising when one considers that, as the hotel advertisement puts it, Totland Bay has "four thousand miles of ozone constantly pouring upon it," it being possible to draw a straight line that distance across the Atlantic without touching land. The clientele of this modest water- ing-place is of a distinctly distinguished kind. The late Archbishop of Canterbury was for years one of the most regular of summer visitors. Artists come on account of the beautiful atmospheric effects, the unrivalled land and seascapes, and the gorgeous sunsets. The bay is well sheltered and affords exceptional advantages for yachting and boating, while the sands are remarkably white and firm. There are a few bathing machines and a small pier, the latter the property of the hotel company. By means of the excursion steamers that call so frequently during summer, or by taking 'bus to Freshwater station, the tourist can easily reach any part of the Island. The only buildings requiring mention are the Church (erected 1875), with its attractive schoolhouse, the convenient Refreshment and Reading Rooms attached to the bathing establishment on the sands, and the puzzling red-brick structure that stands on the point nearest Hurst Castle, and forms so prominent an object in the view from the cliffs or the steamer. This isolated building is principallv used, we believe, in connection with the testing of torpedoes. The narrow strip of pine-screened greensward at the top of the cliff is known as the Turf Walk. At the neighbouring watering-place of^ Colwell Bay good batliing is to be had, and those who like an un- sophisticated and out-of-the-world place might do worse than give it a trial. There is a small hotel {Colwell Bay) about a quarter of a mile from the sea, and apart- ments can be secured in private houses by arranging before- hand. Geologists will find much to interest them in the neighbouring cliff sections, and fossils are fairly numerous. 1C3 1^4 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. ALONG THE DOWNS FROM FRESHWATER TO CARISBROOKE. The pedestrian will find few walks in the Island to equal this. The views all along are superb. It can be commenced from any of the places described in this section, but we will assume that the start is made from Freshwater Bay. Afton Down (415 feet) is first ascended, and in about three miles from the bay we reach the summit of Brook Down (496 feet). There are numerous barrows hereabouts, but they are of no great interest except to antiquaries. A steep descent conducts to a bend of the Ventnor road, which we cross, and ascend the opposite slope to Mottistone Down, 667 feet ("Longstone" close by, sec p. 140). In a mile and a half we cross another lane leading from Calbourne (left) to Brixton (right), and follow a cart track up to Brixton Down (701 feet), which though by no means, as is sometimes stated, the highest point in the Island next to Boniface and St. Catherine's, is, from its central position, in some respects a better view-point than either. The whole length of the Island from the Culver Cliff to Fresh- water is commanded. The path running eastward from the summit is presently merged into an old Roman road, which will lead either to Idlecombe Lane (bear left, with Bowcombe Down on left) and so to Carisbrooke ; or we can keep on the ridge of Bowcombe Down, near the race- course, and descend into the Calbourne and Carisbrooke road, turning right for the latter place. Train may be taken back to Freshwater from either Carisbrooke or Newport. Needless to say, this walk admits of numerous variations, but it deserves to be taken, in part at least, by every visitor to the Island. «^ NEW EDITION. The Most Up-to-date Book of Reference in the World. Medium Svo, Cloth, 21s. ; ilalf-Calf, 25s.; Full or Tree-Calf, 31 6d. HAYDN'S DICTIONARY of DATES AND UNIVERSAI. INKORIYIAXIOW. A Complete Record of all Nations and Times, containin": the History of the World to the end of 1903. For more than Half-a-Century HAYDN'S DICTIONARY OF DATES has been firmly established in the public favour as A WORK WHICH tiAS NO RIVAL, and as a work which is indispensable in every office or place of business, every library and every home. 23rd Edition. HAYDN'S DICTIONARY of DATES is what it claims to be A C01Yl¥»l-ETE l^ECORD of all the events, Ancient, Mediaeval, and Modern, which have taken place in the world from the earliest times right up to the end of 1903. It is ACCURATE, COM- PREHENSIVE, and EXHAUSTIVE, and is so easy of REFERENCE that the required information can be found AT A MOMENT'S NOTICE London : IVAlil), LOCK £ CO., LIMITED. fis EDFERN OF J6v Special Hppointmcnt. ftst*' MAIL ORDER DEPT. In response to post-card an ex- ceptional variety of Clot lis are despatched with original designs by resident artists, with sug- gestions to suit each individual requirement. "THE" Authority on Yachting Attire. A useful 5uit in blue Serge, braided in black, can be worn open or closed, the Vest is of White Pace Cloth in three folds, hand embroidered, 7^ Gu.iir&e£i,s. hU- of Wight, to face f. 165.J S., COV\'KS. SECTION VI. COW^ES AND NEWPORT. Southampton to Cowes. ANY travellers by this route take advantage of the option given them hv the railway company to break the journey at Southampton. The old town, with its wealth of interests both past and present, is well worth seeing. The chief objects of antiquarian interest in the town itself are the Bar Gate at the head of High Street, the Town Walls, and the ancient red-tiled house in St. Michael's Square known as Henry VIII. 's Palace. There are several tine parks, an extensive connnon, and a promenade round the Western Bay. The beautiful New Forest is within easy reach by road or rail. But it is of course as a great shipping centre that Southampton is chiefly noteworthy. If the visitor can get permission to look over the Docks, espe- cially the EiiifTiSS Dock, where the largest vessels afloat can be accommodated at any hour of the day or night, and the new (iiaviiifi Dock, the largest single graving dock in the world, he should by all means do so. Southampton has the almost unique advantage of a double tide, with practically four hours of high water daily, so that the largest vessels afloat can be accommodated at any hour. 165 1 66 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Leaving the Royal Pier, near the Docks station, we steam down Southampton Water, noting Hythe and its long pier on the right, and on the left, nearly hidden by trees, the pic- turesque ruins of Netley Abbey, with the Hospital close by. As we leave the estuary, we pass Calshot Castle, on the right, and Calshot Light (interesting as one of the points which the yachts have to round in the regattas) on the left. Arrange- ments have recently been made to close Southampton Water against hostile vessels, in case of war, by means of a boom. As soon as danger threatens five gunboats will moor in a line off Calshot Castle. The entrance will be barred by a network of wire hawsers with heavy baulks of spiked timbers, and numerous submarine mines will run from ship to ship. These form the boom, which is so constructed that it cannot he jumped by torpedo craft, although friendly vessels will be able to pass and obtain safe anchorage. With- out any perceptible change of course, we cross the Solent to the pontoon at Cowes, whence the packets make their way to Ryde. The passage from Southampton takes about an hour. The view of Cowes from the water, especially if there be a number of yachts in the foreground, is very beautiful. It is a walk of two or three minutes from the pontoon at Cowes to the railway station, whence trains run to Newport, and from thence to Freshwater ; to Ryde, Sandown, &c. ; and by the new direct route to Ventnor. Holders of through tickets have their luggage conveyed free of charge from pontoon to station. The handbook of the Cyclists' Touring Club re- commends Cowes as a landing-place in preference to Ryde, as it has the advantage of being on the level, while at Ryde there are steps to climb. COW^ES. Hotels.— Cowes : Marine, Gloster, and Globe, on the Parade. Fountain, High Street. E.AST Cowes : Royal Medina, near Floating Bridge ; Prince of Wales , opposite " Prince of Wales' Gate," Osborne. For Tariffs see Introduction. There are several excellent Restaurants. Banks.— Cap/ta/ and Counties and London and County, High Street. Boating — excellent. Boats can be taken up the Medina as far as Xewport. Bathing — indifferent. Machines near Egypt Point. Climate. — Siv p. 15. Clubs.— ffoya/ Yacht Squadron, Cowes Castle, Royal London Yacht Club, Island Sailing Club, and others. Ferries. — The F!oal:ni< Bridge runs between Cowes and East Cowes every ten minutes until lo.o p.m. Fare one halfpenny. Cyclist and machine, three-halfpence. A Steam Launch also runs from the pier in connection with the steamers, and crosses to the East Cowes pontoon. Places of Worship, with the hours of service on Sundays : — Cowes. St. Mary's ChurchS.o, 1 i.o, 3.0, and ''.30. Holy Trinity Church — 11.0, 3.30, and f'.3o- Congregational, Free Methodist, Primi- tive Methodist, and IVes/eya;)— all at 1 1 .0 and 6.30. Baptist — 10.30 and 6.30. Roman Catholic -^.30^ 10.30, and 6.30. CO WES. 167 East Cowes. St. James's Church— ii.o and 6.30. I Congregational and Wesleyan—n.o Bible Christian— ii.o and (j.30. \ and 6.30. Population (1901). — 8,654. Post Offices, 73, High Street, Cowes, and High Street, East Cowes. Railway Station.— Just off High Street. See p. 168. Mill Hill station (quarter of a mile distant) serves the southern part of Cowes, and is equally convenient for the Floating Bridge. Steamers.— Brielly, tlie trips to Bournemouth, Weymouth, Brighton. Round the Island, \c., given in detail under Ryde (pp. 41-2) are all available from Cowes, but fares will in some cases differ slightly, and an allowance of about half an hour should be made for the journev between Cowes and Ryde. To SouTH.-VMPTON. —There is a regular daily service, boats leaving about every two hours, and numerous special trips. Return fares (after ii.o): main cabin, i '6 ; fore, i /-. To Ryde.— About six boats daily. Return fare (after 11. o) : main cabin 1/3 ; fore, 1/-. The Regatta, held the first week in August, has made Cowes famous the world over, but except during the season there is not a great deal to interest the visitor. The town is divided into two parts — known as Cowes and East Cowes — by the river Medina, which here attains a considerable width. East Cowes has the advantage of aristocratic con- nections : Osborne House, Norris Castle, and other stately mansions being just within its borders, but in spite of recent improvements, nobody is likely to visit the place for itself. Cowes has two redeeming and altogether admir- able features, its sea-front and the cliff road which runs above it ; but the streets of the older part of the town are narrow and tortuous, and the houses, except those facing the sea, are not specially attractive. There are some excellent shops, yachtsmen being to all appearance their principal patrons. Some well-known and influential establishments in the West End of London find it to their advantage to be represented here. Being the chief — one might almost say the only — port of the Island, Cowes is ul\va3's more or less busy, and the trail of the seafaring man is everywhere noticeable. On landing from the steamer by the new Pier a turn to the right brings you at once to the most attractive part of Cowes. Arrivals by railway from other parts of the Island turn rightward from the station into High Street. Follow this devious thoroughfare rightward until you pass the attrac- i68 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. tive studio of Messrs. W. U. Kirk & Sons, the well-known yachting photographers, where the road debouches into a broad, open space overlooking the sea, with the embowered balconied houses of Parade Terrace for background, the picturesque Marine Hotel a little to the right, and the Gloster Hotel to the left. This is— The Parade, which in recent years has been improved almost beyond recognition. The view across the Solent, especially when the roadstead is crowded with yachts and boats, and launches are darting in all directions, is as animated as one could desire. There are numerous seats, a bandstand, with lavatories beneath ; and the stone balustrade which protects the promenader from an unwished-for ducking seems to have been designed by some intelligent observer of man- kind for the express purpose of supporting the elbows of the nautical lounger. The Esplanade has recently been still further extended in the direction of the Harbour. In a prominent position at the entrance to the Harbour is the new — Victoria Pier, where the excursion steamers now usually land their passengers, instead of at the pontoon. With this addi- tion to its conveniences Cowes is likely to become the most popular resort in the Island for lovers of the sea. In addition to the regular services to Southampton and Ports- mouth, steamers call daily on the way round the Island, and there are frequent trips to Brighton, Bournemouth, Swanage, Weymouth, &c. Turning westward, we come to Cowes Castle, the head- quarters of the famous — Royal Yacht Squadron. 'iliis is the premier yacht club of the kingdom, having for manv years had the King, as Prince of Wales, as its com- modore and now as its admiral, the German Emperor as member, patron, and annual prize-giver, and a membership CO WES. 169 list including half the British aristocracy. The club was formed in 181 2, the first Earl of Yarborough being the founder. The vessels of members are privileged to fly tlie St. George's ensign (if above thirty tons), and are admitted into all foreign ports free of harbour dues. None but members and officers of the Royal Navy may land at the graduated stage in front of the Castle. The Castle, with its pretty grounds and conserva- tory-like " platform," was formerly the property of the Government, and incorporates what is left of one of IK U. Kirk &■ Sons, COWKS REGATTA WATCHING THK STAKT. the forts built by Henry VIII. for the defence of the southern shore of the Solent. Sir Wm. Davenant, of Shakesperian fame, was confined here during the Common- wealth, and employed the time in composing the first portion of " Gondibert." The club purchased the building in 1856. In 1895, a new bastion was built in front of the castle, and on it were mounted twenty-two brass guns from the Royal Adelaide, in Virginia Water, presented to the squadron b}' the then Prince of Wales. The guns start the races and snlutp the victorious yachts, I70 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Cowes Regatta. The great yachting carnival of the south is more talked about than understood. Of the thousands who crowd the sea.-front from the Parade to Egypt Point, a good half mile away, probably not one in five knows anything of the races, or cares very much, except to hope that an English- built boat will win. A yachtsman's cap is by no means conclusive evidence that its wearer is a yachtsman, and the prettiest of yachting costumes may enhance the charms of a maiden who would not go to sea if she could. The actual racing is confined to a very few of the scores of dainty vessels in the roadstead ; the others, for the week at least, are merely houseboats. Shortly before ten a preparatory gun is fired, and the competing vessels may be seen trying to get to windward of each other as they pass the mark-boat. Off they go, westward or eastward, according to the condi- tions of the race. The landward observer catches a glimpse of a phantom sail or two gliding behind a semi-transparent screen of cordage and bunting, and the business of the morning is over. But the real fun is about to commence. All day long trim boats and launches, manned by seamen in unimpeachable attire, dart from one vessel to another, and occasionally to shore, freighted with gaily-dressed passengers who have calls to make. Sounds of decorous revelry — the occasional popping of a champagne cork, or the clatter of plates — are heard on every side ; while on land irrepressible niggers chant their lays and send round the hat with un- wearied persistency. The one-armed man with a cracked harmonium, the blind man with a woe-begone dog, the instantaneous cartoonist, the clown on stilts, the vendor of dough-nuts and ginger-beer, all find a place and manage to do well. If it is hot, the crowd lies on the green and pants and plays with its luncheon baskets, wishing the while that • there were more shelter. The local youth of both sexes, ■unabashed by the presence of greatness, display under- garments more or less immaculate as they paddle along the rocky foreshore. About tea-time people begin to think again about the ostensible business of the day, and the man who possesses a programme showing the colours of the competing yachts flourishes it ostentatiously, and remarks to his neigh- ijour that " with this breeze they ought to be in in half an hour." Presently they are in, and the phantom sails once more glide slowly by. Bang ! goes the gun. " Who's won ? " is the cry on every hand, and the rejoinder more often than not is, "Don't know. Sure to be in to-morrow's papers ! " Knowing ones have by this time clustered round the Castle. An important functionary, in full uniform, occupies himself by sweeping the leavings of the sea from the landing-stage ; not that there is much to sweep, but a one-inch puddle may 171 172 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. soil a six-inch shoe, to say nothing of a sillcen stocking. Boat after boat draws up, and the aforesaid functionary has enough to do in handing the ladies out. The crowd thoroughly enjoys itself. All sorts of conjectures, most of them de- plorably wide of the mark, are made as to the personality of the distinguished people who strut with more or less dignity up the steps of the jetty to the castle-gate. A crowd is soon collected in the grounds, and the glass observatory is filled to overflowing with serge-coated, bronze-hued men. with glasses tucked under their arms. Then, as night comes on, there is the annual club banquet, admission to which is a coveted privilege, lots of congratulatory speeches, a great blaze of fireworks outside, and possibly a procession of illuminated boats. Then the crowd turns station-ward and ship-ward, and gaily goes home to bed. Besides the annual regatta of the Royal Yacht Squadron, the London Yacht Club holds a one-day regatta. In 1889 was established the " Island Sailing Club," which now numbers about three hundred members. Its main object is the promotion of sailing and racing in small craft. During the season, extending from May to September, races are held every two weeks. Proceeding westward from the Castle, wc come to a pretty slope bordering the shore which goes by the name of — Prince's Green. It was presented to the town by G. R. Stephenson, Esq., in 1863, on condition that it should never be applied to commercial purposes. Here are plenty of seats, a band- stand, and a fountain of unusually attractive design, which beseeches the passer-by, not once but many times, to " Keep the Pavement Dry." Overlooking the green are some fine residences. By turning up Mornington Road, the Zig Zag, a steep path leading to the cliff top, is reached. The views all along this road of the Solent and the oppo- site coast are delightful. At Egypt Point the Trinity House authorities have erected a new light. Egypt is a fine red brick, ivy-clad mansion, with a rich background of foliage. The baths and bathing machines do what business they can, but the local rliymster who in 1760 exclaimed — 173 174 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. " No more to foreign baths shall Britons roam, But plunge at Cowes, and find rich health at home," can hardly have known what a bath was. The shore i> safe enough, and there is sometmies a fair quantity of sand, but most people will consider it too rough for comfort. Where the Esplanade ends a remarkable contrast is presented. Civilisation gives way to barbarism, or at least to a stretch of wild, uncultivated ground, where thistles flourish and the grass comes up to one's knee. Following the path by the sandy shore we should come in another three quarters of a mile to Gurnard Bay, a suburb of Cowes, with a hotel of its own, and every likelihood of future development. Holy Trinity Churcli, near the Castle, was built in 183 1-2, the chancel being added in 1868. St. Mary's, at the top of the town, was rebuilt in 1867, thanks mainly to the Ward family of Northwood. The unsightly building which formerly occupied the site enjoyed the distinction of being one of the few churches erected during the Common- wealth. The Roman Catholic Church, dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, was built in 1796, and stands opposite the railway station. Amongst the paintings is a very valuable picture, said to have been the work of Allessandra da Messina (ob. circa 1596). It hangs on the north wall, and represents the death of the Virgin Mary. Those who have an inclination to see something of East Cowes should make their way up High Street, past the entrance to the pontoon, to the Duke of York Inn, turning left down the Medina Road to the Floating Bridge {see p. 166). East Co-wes has been aptly called "a combination of Norwood and Rotherhithe." There are numerous boat-building yards and wharves on the river bank, but the slopes above are occupied by villa residences of considerable amenity. Ascending the hill running eastward out of the town, we EAST CO WES. 175 come, halfway up, to Slatwoods, where Dr. Arnold, head master of Rugby, 1828-1842, was born on June 13, 1795. The house is marked by a circular tablet. His father was collector of customs at East Cowes. Tlie Town Hall, at the foot of the tree-lined York Avenue, was the gift of Mrs. White. In consideration of the closing of a public road which to some extent inter- fered with the privacy of the Osborne domain, the late Queen constructed, at her own expense, another and more convenient thoroughfare, about 1,000 yards in length, and presented it to the public in exchange for the old road, together w^ith about twelve acres of land. The new road was opened in 1898 by the Queen herself, and christened Beatrice Avenue. On the summit of the hill, on the left, are the grounds of Norris Castle, like Osborne best seen from the Solent. Queen Victoria was often here as a girl with her mother, the Duchess of Kent. The large and well-wooded park adjoins the Osborne demesne, and the prospect is finer and more extensive than that from the terrace at Osborne. East Cowes Castle was designed by Nash, the architect of Buckingham Palace, Regent Street, &c., for his own occupation. The chief interest of East Cowes of course centres round — Osborne [Admission. — Sec p. 178], the stately marine residence w^here Queen Victoria spent so many quiet days, and where, onHhe 22nd of January, 1901, she passed. away. The main gates are about three-quarters of a mile up the hill from the ferr3\ Queen Victoria purchased the estate from Lady Isabella Blachford in 1845, and the palace was finished in 1851, though many additions were afterwards made. The building is of the Palladian type, and was designed by Tliomas Cubitt and the Prince Consort. The house is thus described in Sarah Tytler's life of the late Queen : " The architecture of the pile of buildings was planned to express such stately simplicity as best befits a 176 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. OSBORNE. 177 country house and not a palace. The two towers — the clock tower and the bell tower, one belonging to the part of the house known as the Pavilion — and the pillared en- trance arc its most ornamental portions. The house is built on the highest of a series of terraces which descend to the sea beach and pier. The terrace immediately be- neath the windows of the principal rooms is a bright flower garden, with here a fountain and there a vase or statue. The lower terraces are the wooded slopes, with many a sunny and shady walk. The trees were largely chosen and grouped according to the taste of the Prince Consort. The different entrances lead into far-extending corridors, stretching in long vistas with gleams of the blue sea or the green park at each end." The lofty towers are conspicuous from many points. The flag tower is 107 feet high, and the clock towx'r 90 feet. The room in which the late Queen died is in the semi-circular projection beneath the former. The grounds, some 2,000 acres in extent, have a sea-front of a mile and a half, and are well seen in passing by steamer from Cowes to Ryde. The King and his brothers and sisters in early days each had a small garden to tend and care for, and in another part of the grounds may be seen a miniature fort, " The Albert Barracks," actually built by the little princes. In 1902, immediately after the Coronation, the King announced in a letter to Mr. Balfour his intention of pre- senting the house and estate to the public ; and later in the same year an Act was passed setting out that the King had, with the concurrence of the Prince of Wales, " signitied his gracious pleasure that the Osborne estate should be handed over so as to become part of the public property of the Sovereign, and that provision should be made for the use of Osborne House and grounds as a memorial to her late Majesty Queen Victoria." Management of the estate is now vested in the Commis- sioners of Works. About sixty acres have been fenced off for the new Naval College, and the rest is maintained as a public park. The wings of the house are used as a Convales- cent Home for about tifty oflicers of the Navy and Army. 13 178 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Admission to the public portions of the house and grounds can be gained on two days a wee/i in summer, and one day a li'cek in winter. The State Rooms, including the Audience Chamber, the Council Room, the Indian Room, the Drawing Room, and the corridors are richly decorated, and contain a col- lection of valuable pictures, statuary, &c. The late Queen's private apartments are sacredly reserved as a memento of her Majesty. H.R.H. the Princess Henry of Battenberg, Governor of the Island, resides in Osborne Cottage. The Royal Naval College adjoins the Prince of Wales' Gate, further south, opposite the Pi i nee of Wales Hotel. The College was opened by the King, accompanied by the Prince of Wales, on the 4th of August, 1903. Under the new scheme for training naval officers the cadets, fresh from preparatory schools, will spend two years at Osborne, two at the Britannia College at Dartmouth, and two at sea, subsequently choosing which branch of the profession, navigating, engineering, or Royal Marine, they will follow. The bungalows used as dormitories for the cadets consist of a wooden skeleton, over which, both inside and outside, sheets of the non-flammable building material, uralite, are fixed. Each dormitory contains accommodation for thirty cadets, reckoning to each bed 1,008 cubic feet of air space. At the end of each is the small apartment for the officer in charge, and a bath-room, with plunge and warm baths. A connecting verandah runs before the entrance to all. In what were originally the stables of Osborne House class-rooms have been constructed. Here, too, is the mess- room, accommodating upwards of 300, and adjoining it the kitchen. The recreation room is a noble hall, 100 feet in length by 40 feet wide, with high vaulted ceiling and a musician's gallery. Beyond this is the gymnasium. The officers' quarters are in another bungalow, constructed on the same principle as the dormitories. A notable feature of the writing room is a representation in .beaten copper WHIPPINGHAM. 179 over the fireplace of the Battle of Trafalgar, with Nelson's immortal signal, " England expects that every man will do his duty." The metal work throughout is of simple and artistic character, the door plates and handles being of pewter. The Workshops are situated at Kingston Quay, on the east bank of the Medina, and arc connected with the College by a new roadway. Here full instruction is given WHII'I'IXGHAM CMl'KCH. in the handling of tools and machinery, and by means of the sloop Racer and other craft the boys acquire familiarity with the conditions of sea-life. A direction post near the College points the way to Whippingham (about half a mile). Whippingham. Bailway Station, >^iii llie Rytlc ;uk1 Newport line, is nearly two miles distant. It was orijjinally built as a private station tor the use of Queen i8o GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Victoria. Railwaj' passengers walk clown the station approach to main road. Turn for a few yards only to right, and at fork, where stand some model cottages designed by the late Prince Consort, turn left (road to right leads to Wootton Bridge, and is the coach route for Rj-de). In a quarter of a mile is another cross-road. Disregard turning to left (Newport), and keep straight on for about a mile to village. Near school, turn left by round-about road to church. Excellent roads for cyclists. Whippingham finds mention in Domesday Book, and the Church was built, as the inscription over the doorway informs us, on the site of an edifice " dedicated in the twelfth century to Mildred, a Saxon Princess, and founded by William Fitz-Osborne in 1066, by whom it was bestowed, with five others, upon the Abbey of Lire." A later inscrip- tion, of even greater interest, reads : "To the glory of God and to the beloved memory of Queen Victoria, who entered into her rest, at Osborne, on Jan. 22, 1901, the Sanctuary of this Church was enriched and beautified by her son, King Edward VII., and her other children and grand- children. ' Her children arise up and call her blessed.' " The Church. [// ilie church is not open apply for key at the cottage adioining the vicarage. The path on. left opposite doorway leads to vicarage, but turn right at foot of steps 'or cottage. Services on Sundays at n.o and 6.0.] The church "was designed by Albert, Prince Consort, and rebuilt by Queen Victoria in conjunction with him, in the year of our Lord mdccclxi." The building is finely situated on a wooded eminence overlooking the Medina and is visited by many tliousands of tourists on account of its royal associations. It is additionally interesting as the scene of the marriage of Princess Beatrice and Prince Henry of Battenberg, and as the last resting place of the gallant prince, who died in the service of his adopted country. The entrance to the churchyard is by a lych-gate of teak, and the path is lined by cypresses. In style the church may be best described as a modern adaptation of Early English, but it is of distinctly foreign appearance. The ground plan takes the shape of a Latin cross, and the build- ing comprises chancel, north and south transepts, and nave, the unusual length of the chancel being due to tlie fact that BArfES'BERG CHAPEL. i8i the Osborne pews are located in it. .The large central tower is surmounted by a spire of peculiar construction, and has spirelets at the four corners. The sides of the tower are filled with good stained glass, an arrangement which gives a rich and airy appearance to the interior of the church. The Royal Pew on the south side of the chancel was reseated as part of the scheme for beautifying the Church. It is appi cached by a private entrance under a Norman archway. The beautiful marble Reredos depicting the Last Supper is a memorial of the late Queen. Other work carried out IV. U. Kirt &■ Sons,] [Cowes THE BATTKNHKWC; MKMORI.Vr. CHAPK.I., WHIPPIXGHAM. at his Majestv's command includes the repaving of the chancel floor, decoration and lining, and the provision of a new oak roof. Facing the Koval Pew is the beautiful — Battenberg Chapel, where tlie remains of the late Prince Henry rest. It is almost pathetic to see what tender thoughtfulness has been bestowed upon every detail connected with this monument. Everything is in perfect taste : chaste, rich, elegant, yet severely simple. The beautiful open screen is of gun l82 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. metal, from a design by Mr. Gilbert, R.A. An autograph inscription b}' the late Queen records that the work is a memorial of her " dear son-in-law." The base of the sar- cophagus is of dove marble, and the panels above bear the arms and the orders of the Prince and Princess, carved in perfect detail. The massive top is adorned with appropriate scripture texts, and the Latin words, " In te Domine Spero." The altar-table, constructed of dove and statuary marble, is IV. U. Kirk &■ SOBJ,] I Co-M-s. REREDOS, WHIPPINGHAM CHURCH. Erected by His Majesty and members of the Royal Family in meniDry of yueen Victori.i. approached by polished steps. Above the table has been erected the figure of an angel with outstretched wings, by Princess Louise, which stands nearly eight feet high, and occupies the major portion of the east end. The handsome brass eagle lectern in the church is also in memory of Prince Henry, and was presented by Colonel Lord Edward Pelham-Clinton, January 20, 1897. Within the Royal Pew is a medallion of the late KORTHWOOD—PARKHURST FOREST. 183 Prince Consort, with two angels holding a crown over his head. The inscription records that the monument was " placed in the church, erected under his direction, by his broken-hearted and devoted widow, Queen Victoria, 1864." Another monument which calls forth the sympathies of a nation is that erected to the memory of Princess Alice, wliose death occurred so sadly on the anniversary of the death of her father, to whom she had been so devotedly attached. There are also monuments in the church to the Duke of Albany, Sir Henry Ponsonby, and the father of Dr. Arnold of Rugby. The churchyard contains a number of tombs of her late Majesty's servants of all degrees. The outlook is very pretty, though the cement works on the opposite bank do not improve it. Bv walking a hundred yards or so further along the lane in the direction of East Cowes a much better view is gained. COWES TO NEWPORT, i ;,i NORTHWOOD. On the opposite bank of the Medina, and almost opposite Whippingham Church, is — Northwood, the mother parish of Cowes, though itself once a mere chapelr}' of Carisbrooke. The Church is ancient, and con- tains some Late Norman work, but is of no great interest. Close by is — Parkhurst Forest, the only considerable tract of woodland in the island. It comprises about eleven hundred acres, and is adminis- tered by the Commissioners of Woods and Forests. At one time it was of much greater extent. Parkhurst Prison will accommodate seven hundred convicts, but is fortunately rarely full. The Albany Barracks, built 1798, and recently enlarged, are just below. The Workhouse, on the opposite side of the road, is interesting from the fact that the estabhshment 184 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. was one of the earliest — if not tlie earliest — union work- houses in the kingdom. It may not be generally known that the Island was the first place in which the modern system of poor-law unions was tried. The workhouse in which the experiment was made was erected in 1770, being succeeded by the present building in 1887. COWES TO NEWTOWN, SHALFLEET, AND CALBOURNE. The triangular tract enclosed by the railways from Cowes to Newport and from Newport to Yarmouth is little visited by tourists, but the district, though tame in comparison with some parts of the Island, is worth cycling or driving through. We assume that the excursion is made from Cowes, but at least as many people will take train from Newport to Calbounie and Shalficci station (about midway between the two villages). The coaches for various parts of the island frequently take the Calbourne and Carisbrooke road on the return journey from Freshwater. At Cowes, proceed up High Street as for Floating Bridge, turning right instead of left at Duke of York Inn. The road runs past cemetery to cross road (left for Newport). Keep straight on, by what was known as Tinker's Lane, but is now Pallance Road. There are a number of confusing turns in the road, and the map is likely to be of more assistance than the most elaborate directions. The route is over Bunt's Hill and through Porchfield and pretty Lock's Green. A lane on the right, rather more than half a mile from the latter place leads to — Ne'wtown. [Inn: Newtown Arms.'\ If we can fancy that the land hereabouts was once com- posed wholly of soft mud or sand, and that an enormous giant came and pressed his hand, with fingers extended, upon it, leaving the sea to rush into the channels so created, we shall get a fair idea of the ramifications and appearance of the Newtown River. Some of the creeks afford tolerable NEWTOWNSHA I.FLEET. 185 fishing, and whcMi the tide is up by no means lack picturesqueness. Newtown (formerly Francheville) may have been new once, but it has been old now for a very long time, and is but an insignificant village, preserving in its medley Town Hall a suggestion of former greatness. It was formerly the seat of a considerable salt industry, and oyster cultivation is still carried on. In 1377, the French raided the town, and it seems never to have recovered the blow. The river was evidently much deeper at that time, for it is spoken of as accommodating fifty ships of tive hundred tons. Until the Reform Act of 1832, Newtown returned two representatives to Parliament, amongst them being the great John Churchill, afterwards Duke of Marlborough, and George Canning, subsequently Prime Minister. In the Inn can be seen a map of the old town, with a short manuscript history attached to it. Another lane will take us back in half a mile to the main road, but some three-quarters of a mile further westward than the spot where we left it for the detour to Newtown. Continue, with creeks on right hand, to the first turning on right, which crosses the Calboitnie stream by a one-arch bridge and leads to — Shalfleet. [Inn: New Inn. Railway Station : a mile south-east.] The village is prettily seated on the slopes of two steep hills, on the high-road from Yarmouth to Newport. The quaint old-world Clitiixli repays a visit. It is chiefly of Early English architecture, but the massive tower and the north doorway are Norman. The tower is surmounted by a stunted wooden spire, erected in place of a stone one of much greater height, which had fallen a prey to the devouring tooth of old Time, about 1808, the necessary funds being provided by the sale of the church bells, and of the gun, which, in common with all the parishes in the island, Shalfleet possessed as a defence against a sudden inroad of " our natural enemies " on the other side of the Channel. This business transaction gave rise to a distich, which affirms that : "The Shalfleet poor and sill)- people, Sold the bells to build the steeple." There are now, however, two bells in the bell-cliamber 1 86 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. of the tower. Over the north doorway, is a rude carving, thought by some to represent David's encounter with the hon and bear. Others beUeve it to be the figure of the Saviour; and a third school contends that it is "a bishop or priest, resting his hands on two heraldic griffins." Readers must form their own conclusions. Cyclists who want an alternative return route to Cowes should turn right when a quarter of a mile east of the village (not left to Newtown), and at first on left turn again. The road presently skirts the southern edge of Parkhurst Forest and joins the Newport and Cowes road near tlie Barracks. Calbourne [Sun Inn.} is about two miles south of Shalfleet (the same railway station serves for both). The district has in recent years acquired some notoriety as the locale of the Silence of Dean Maitland. Readers of that famous story, which goes steadily into edition after edition, may like to know that the pseudonym " Maxwell Gray," covers the identity of Miss M. G. Tuttiett, the daughter of a former medical practitioner of Newport. The Church is of mixed Norman and Early English architecture, but has suffered somewhat from the restorer. The rebuilt tower bears the inscription : " I am risen from the ruins of near 70 years, a.d. 1752, T. Hollis, J. Casford, Churchwardens." There are several nionuments to mem- bers of the Simeon family of Swainstone. To the south of Calbourne is Westover, a fine mansion standing in a well-wooded park. Swainstone, which also figures prominently in The Silence of Dean Maitlaiid, is about a mile eastward on the New- port road. The coach drivers make a point of directing attention to the place. The mansion is of stone, in the Italian style, and occupies the site of a former palace of the Bishops of Winchester. The park, with its hills and dales, and flourishing forest trees, makes a pretty sight. The Simeon family were great friends of Lord Tennyson, and the late Laureate was a frequent visitor while living at Freshwater. The pretty "Watchingwell station, on the CYCLING ROUTES FROM COWES. 187 Newport and Freshwater line, is the private property of the estate. Cycling Routes from Cowes. I. ToRyde.-Siv IV., p. 46. II. To Newtown, Shalfleet, and Yarmoutli.— Stt- pp. 182-6 and 204. III. T>/ Newport. — (n) From West Cowes via Northwood and Parkhurst (sec Return Route IV., p. 46). {b) From East Cowes via Whippingham. Other routes are given under Newport (see p. 203). :r. r. kyri-c- sons,] [C07r, HIGH STREET, NEWTOWN. IV. U. Kirk &■ Sons,] VICTORIA PIER, COWES. NEW^PORT. Kotela:— Bugle, High Street; Warburton's, Quay Street; Roach's, St. James's Square ; Wheatsheaf, St. Thomas Square. For Tariffs see Introduction. Banks. — London and County, iig, High Street ; Capital and Counties, 22, St. Thomas Square ; National Provincial, 107, St. James Square. Free Club and Library.— Lugley Street. Golf Links on Fan Down, near Shide Station (9 holes). Museum. — 30, Quay Street (ii.oto 4.0, free). Newspaper. — County Press (Saty.). Places of Worship, witli the hours of sen'ice on Sundays : — St. rftomas's- -ii.o and 6.30. St. John's — ii.o and 6.30. St. Paul's, Barton — ii.o and 6.30. Baptist (Castleliold) — 10.30 and 6.30. Bible Christian ('Z/o;;j— 10.30 and 6.30. Brethren — 6.30. Congregational — 10.30 and 6.30. Wesleyan — 10.30 and 6.30. Primitive Methodist— 10.4$ and 6.30 Unitarian — i i.o and 6.30. Roman Catholic (St. Thomas 0} Canterbury) — 8.30, 10.30, and 6.30. Population (1901). — 10,911. Post Office, 99, High Street. Railway Station. — Holyrood Street. Keep straight down for High Street. Restaurant. -Roach's, St. James's Square. DISTANCES. Miles. Bembridge iij Ryde . Blackgang 9J Sandovvn Carisbrooke . I Shanklin Cowes . 5 Ventnor. Freshwater Bay ■ II Yarmouth Miles. 7 9 9 io| 9f 188 XEWPORT. 189 Newport is the commercial capital of the Island, and the chief railway centre, but is comparatively neglected by tourists, though it makes an excellent centre for excursions. Scores of coaches pass through on their way to Carisbrooke, a mile south-west, a few stop to enable passengers to see the Church, but the majority go right on. The town is of considerable antiquity, having received its first charter from Richard de Redvers in the reign of Henry II. It was then, as its name signifies, the "new port," Carisbrooke being at that time the seat of govern- ment for the whole of the Island. The principal thorough- fare is a portion of the main road from Ryde to Yarmouth. St. Thomas's Church, in a square just off the High Street, seems to dominate the town. It is modern (1854-6), hut somehow suggests anti- quity. The building wliich for- merly stood on the site dated from the time of Henry II., and was dedicated to the martyred saint of Canter- bury, Thomas- a - B e c k e t . When the pre- sent structure was conse- crated, the former patron saint was aban- doned for St. T h o m as t h e Apostle, ibut St. T h o m as of Canterbury is n o w a g a i n favoured. The ICoives yUKKN VKTOKIA MKMOKIAI,, NEWPORT. igo GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. church is in the Early Decorated style and is really a very fine building. The nave is clerestoried, and there are north and south aisles and porches. The massive tower, with its crocketed pinnacles, rises to a height of 132 feet, and is a conspicuous object from every direction. It has recently been entirely restored at a cost of ;£'2,400. Under the central canopy is a figure of our Lord blessing a little child. The other figures are those of the two St. Thomas's. The fine peal of bells came from the old church. Another relic of the old church is the oak pulpit, dated 1637, with two rows of panels, somewhat rudely carved, representing the cardi- nal virtues, the three graces, and the seven liberal sciences. Justice and Mercy are figured on the sounding-board, and a verse from Isaiah- exhorts the preacher to " Cry aloud, spare not, lift up thy voice like a trumpet." The reading- desk is dated 1633, and the communion plate (a complete set) 1637. The principal monument is that to the left of the chancel, erected by Queen Victoria to Princess Elizabeth, the second daughter of Charles I ., who died in captivity at Carisbrooke in her fifteenth year. Shortly after her arrival at the castle, she caught a chill, and was found one morning by her atten- dants lying dead upon a couch, with her face resting upon an open Bible, the parting gift of her unhappy father. She was buried in the chancel of the old church, but her place of sepulture was forgotten until 1793, when some workmen employed in making a new grave stumbled upon the coffin. A brass plate immediately in front of the altar marks the spot where her body lies. The monument, of Carrara marble, is one of Marochetti's finest works. The likeness was from a portrait in the possession of the late Queen. The touching inscription runs : "Tt) tlif memory of the Princess Elizabeth, dauj^hter ot Kiiij" Cliarles I., who died at Carisbrooke Castle, on Sundaj', vSeptember Stli, 1650, and is interred beneath the chancel of this church, this monument is erected, as a token of respect for her virtues and of sympathy for her misfortunes, by Victoria K., 1856." There is also a medallion of "Albert" by Marochctti,aiici to the right of tlie chancel a fine monument to Sir Edward Horsey, a former Captain of the Island (1565-82). yF]\'PORT. TOT MONUMENT TO PKINCESS ELIZABETH. The Gruild Hall, where the corporation business is transacted, and the petty sessions and county court held, was built in 1814-16. There is a statue of Lord Chief 'Justice Fkmiuii, who was a native of the island. The clock- tower commemorates the first of Queen Victoria's Jubilees. The Free Grammar School, in St. James's Street, was erected in 1619 by a number of gentlemen to provide a good education for the boys of Newport. The building is chiefly remarkable as the scene of the conference between Charles I. and the Parliamentary Commissioners, which resulted in tlie abortive Treaty of Newport. The king's bedroom looked into St. James's Street, and the old school- room was used as the presence chamber. In the Market Place stands a fine Memorial of Queen Victoria. It takes the form of a Victoria Cross, a graceful column, the bronze figures at the base representing the roval virtues of Sympathy, Charity, and Fortitude upholding the Crown, and guarded by the lions of Kngland. The inscription reads, " To Victoria, the (Jueen, this memorial was raised by the people of the Wight. " 192 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. It is worth while to look in at the Museum, 30, Quay Street, which contains a line collection of historical relics and local fossils (11 to 4, no charge). Leaving Newport at the western extremity of High Street, we reach the Mall, with its raised footpaths. At the spot where the road to Carisbrooke Castle (left — to Carisbrooke village and church right) branches from the main thoroughfare, is the Simeon Monument, a richly carved, floriated memorial cross, inscribed : "Sir John Simeon, Bart., M.P., of Swainston and St. John's, in this island; born, Feb. gth, 1815 ; died, May 2151,1870. 'A man greatly beloved,' to whose memory, ever honoured and cherished, this cross is erected by many friends " To the right is the Victoria Recreation G-round, pre- sented to the town by Mr. Tankerville Chamberlayne. On it stands a handsome pavilion erected by the Council. Note the line view of Carisbrooke Castle from this point. Another way of reaching Carisbrooke, and one to be commended to railway travellers if a long wait for the train is not involved, is to proceed to Carisbrooke Station, the first stopping-place on the Freshwater line. The station is half a mile from the castle, but the walk from it by the fields to the churchyard and then through the village is preferable to the high-road from Newport. Carisbrooke. Hotels.— /?ec/ Lion, Wavertey, Eight Bells, Castle, Temperance, &c. The things to see at Carisbrooke are the Castle, the Church, and possibly the remains of the Roman Villa at tlie Vicarage. We will take them in order of importance. But a word should be said first as to the village, as charming, clean-looking, and delightfully situated as any in the interior of the Island. E.xcursionists come in thousands from all parts, but though they are sometimes noisier than they need be, Carisbrooke is not yet spoilt. Every other house bears the legend, " Tea parties accommo- dated," and the fare provided is generally good, wholesome, and moderate in price, the " come once, never see them again " maxim of the holiday-caterer being wisely dis- regarded. CARISBROOKE CASTLE. 193 The Castle. Open ci'cry day, Siiiidiiys twnphd, ftt/jccc// 9 tj.in. diid sunset. Admission foiirpcncc, Gntc House and IIV// Hoii.'ie, 2d. eaeli additional. Teas are note supplied at the Castle dniin^ sunnner. The Castle stands on a wooded hill at an elevation of about a hundred and tifty feet. The summit forms a level plateau some twenty acres in extent, the whole of which is enclosed by the castle walls. Sir Walter Scott is said to have had Carisbrooke in mind when writing Marmion : •• The h.ittled tiiwers, the donjon keep, The loop hole grates where captives weep, The flanking walls that round it sweep. In yellow lustre shone. The Castle gates were barred ; Above the gloomy portal arch, Timing his footsteps to a march. The warder kept his guard." Certainly few ruins in Engkind enable one to conjure up the past with such ease as Carisbrooke. Historical Note. Traces of a British fortress still remain, so that the hoary antiquity of the castle is beyond dispute. It does not figure very prominently iu history, however, until the time of Charles I. Tills has been held by some to detract from its interest, but we are inclined to think with the late Vicar of Carisbrooke (Letters relating to the Isle of Wit^litJ : " Too much stress should not be laid upon the fact that it' has never been taken by an enemy. What is far more to its credit is that no recorded deed of cruelty, rapine, or treachery, disfigures its annals. It was the place of a king's' imprisonment, but Charles I. was upon the whole kindly and gently treated. In one of the rooms the Princess Elizabeth breathed the last breath of her enfeebled frame, but no dark mystery hangs over her fate, like that which surrounds the death of the youthful Edward V. and the little Duke of York in the Tower of London. . . . Nature with her foliage has hidden the ruins of Carisbrooke Castle, but history needs not to be busy with her hand in concealing and softening the records of its former greatness, for they are not stained by ;iny acts of w'hich men loathe the sight and name. Facing the town of Coblenz stands the tower and majestic fortress- the Gibraltar of the Rhine -to which the Germans gave the name of 'The broad stone ut' honour.' Carisbrooke Castle is to the Isle 14 194 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. of Wight ' a stone of honour ' — a pillar of testimony, such as that which Joshua of old set up, to remind us of the deliver- ances from foreign invasion which God has wrought for us in this fair island." When the Civil War broke out, Carisbrooke was garrisoned by a small detachment of Royalist troops under Colonel Brett. The Mayor of Newport, a fanatical Puritan, determined to seize the stronghold for the Parliament. When the besiegers advanced, the Countess of Portland, wife of the Governor of the Island, who had sought asylum in the castle, appeared on the ramparts with a lighted match in hand, and threatened to fire the first cannon and to hold the fortress to the last extremity, unless she and her party were permitted to depart with all the honours of war. The attacking force, ignorant probably of the fact that there were but three days' provisions in the castle, and that the defenders were nearly all invalided soldiers, thought it prudent to comply with the heroic lady's demands. The governor appointed by the Parliament was one Colonel Robert Hammond, a young soldier of brilliant parts, who had risen rapidly in the service, and was married to one of Hampden's daughters. His motives in seeking the post, and sacrificing for a time at least his military prospects were apparently to gain quiet and to keep aloof from the violent measures to which some of his colleagues were already openly committed. The king seems to have had some inkling of the state of the young colonel's mind, and on his escape from Hampton Court the misguided monarch determined to seek refuge in the Isle of Wight, not merely because lie believed the local gentry to be well affected to his cause, but from a vague hope that he would be able to establish an ascendency over Hammond, whom he remembered as an amiable and well-spoken gentleman whose grandfather had been physician to the Court. " His temptation," says Carlyle of HamuK^nd, "when the King announced himself in his neigh- bourjiood had been great. Shall he obey the King in this crisis ; conduct the Kmg whitherward his Majesty wishes .' Or be true to his trust and the Parliament ? He grew suddenly pale — he decided as we saw." When the king's messengers arrived, Hamnipnd, in order to gain time to consult the Parliament, volunteered to wait upon his Majesty at Titchfield, where he was then hiding. Qn the 22nd of November, 1647, Charles, attended by only three of his suite, accompanied the colonel l^ack to Carisbrooke. Hammond played the diflicult and quite unsought-for part assigned to him by events with rare discretion and ability. The king was given plainly to understand that he was a prisoner, but his entertainment was rather that of a guest. The gentlemen of the Island were allowed to wait upon him, the bowling green was constructed for his amusement, and he was even permitted to follow the chase in Parkhurst Forest, where, as Prince Charles, he had twice "hunted and killed a 196 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. bucke." An ill-timed attempt by Captain Burley, who was subsequently hung, drawn and quartered for his pains, to effect a rescue, led to the curtailment of most of these privileges ; though Charles was still treated with the most scrupulous courtesy. "The king's lodgings were at this time limited to the first floor of the buildings facing the entrance, the upper portion of the Great Hall forming his audience and ante chambers, and his bedroom being on the mezzanine floor in the adjoining building to the south." * Captain Titus and others of the guard having been seduced, Charles determined, with the assistance of his page Firebrace, to make a dash for liberty. With characteristic obstinancy, he refused to believe but that " where his head would pass his body would follow." According to Firebrace's narrative, his Majesty in attempting to get through the window of his bed- room " found himself mistaken, he sticking fast between his breast and shoulders, and not able to get forward or backward, but that at the instant before he endeavoured to come out, he mistrusted and tied a piece of his cord to a bar of the window within by means whereof he forced himself back. Whilst he stuck I heard him groan, but could not come to help him, which (you may imagine) was no small affliction to me. So soon as he was in again, to let me see (as I had to my grief heard) the design was broken, he set a candle in the window. If this unfortunate im- pediment had not happened, his Majesty had certainly then made a good escape." Not only Hammond, but the Derby House Committee in London, were well aware of this attempt, and it was thought advisable to lodge the king in a place of greater security. He was moved to the officers' quarters (now in ruins) " in a building on the left side of the first court," and a sentry was stationed on the platform below. As his window contained but one bar, a second was inserted, leaving scarcely five inches between each bar and the stone mullions. On Saturday evening. May 20th, Charles, undaunted by his former failure, had determined to make a second attempt. On coming to the window, however, he found more persons about than he had been led to expect and, scenting danger, he wisely retired to rest in his usual manner. Hammond and his official superiors were as a matter of fact cogni- sant of every detail of the plot, though some doubt still exists as lo the identity of the traitor. On the 6th of September following, Charles left the castle to take up his quarters at the Grammar School, Newport, during the negotiations with the fifteen Commissioners of the Parlia- nient, which ended in the farcical " Treaty of Newport." The army had meantime grown stronger than the Parliament, and its leaders decided, as Carlyle puts it, that " a young colonel with dubitations such as those of Hammond will not suit the * Percy G. Stciiif, ArchiU\tiim! Aiiliquitiis of the hie of Wight. CA RISHl^OOKE CASTLE. 197 Isle at present." Hainmniid was accordingly summoned to Windsor and replaced by Colonel William Sydenham. While it was yet dark, on the morning of the 30th of November, three days after the signature of the treaty, certain officers demanded admission to the royal apartments, and Charles was hurried, with scant courtesy, to a coach which drove him UOOl^ AT CARISMROOKFC CASTI.K. rapidly " towards Worsley's Tower, a little beyond Yarmouth Haven," where he crossed in a sailing vessel to Hurst Castle. An entry in the register of Carisbrooke Church records the melan- choly sequel : " In the year of our Lord Cod, 164c), Januaiy the 30th day, was Kinge Charles beheaded at Whitehall Gate." 198 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. In July of the following year, it was resolved to transfer the late king's children, Henry, Duke of Gloucester, and the Princess Elizabeth, from Penshurst, the historic home of the Sidneys, to Carisbrooke. They arrived on the i6th of August, it being enjoined that " no person should be allowed to kiss their hands, and that they should not he otherwise treated than as the children of a gentleman." Three days later, the princess " being at bowls, a sport she much delighted in, there fell a sudden shower, and being of a sickly constitution, it caused her to take cold, and the next day she complained of headache and feverish distemper, which by fits increased upon her." In spite of all that medical science could do, the princess expired on the i8th of September, and was buried in Newport Church [sec p. 190). "As to the boy," Cromwell had bluntly said, "it would be better to bind him to a trade." Two years later he was liberated by Cromwell's influence and suffered to sail for Holland. He died in 1660. A somewhat steep climb from the village brings us to the Outer G-ateway, bearing the initials E. R. (Elizabeth Regina) and the date 1598. The massive and imposing Gatehouse, with its two round towers and machiolated parapet, is sufficiently ruinous to be picturesque, without losing its air of grandeur and stern command. Under the direction of Mr. Percy G. Stone, the roofs and floors of the Gatehouse have been restored as a memorial to H.R.H. the late Prince Henry of Battenberg, the funds having been subscribed by the inhabitants of the Island. The principal apartment, called the Armoury, lias been con- verted into a Museum for the deposit of ancient manu- scripts and other antiquities relating to the island. No visitor should miss seeing this most interesting collection, especially the Stuart relics, transferred by ditection of the late Queen from Windsor Castle. These include the nightcap worn by Charles I. the night before his execution ; a piece of his cravat ; the head of his walking-stick ; a crystal locket with pearl pendants, containing a lock of his hair, cut off after execution ; the key of the room in which he was confined ; and a gold signet-ring containing a piece of the dress of the Princess Elizabeth. Notice, too, the quaint print depicting Charles I. " Looking to Jesus, so our Soveraigne stood, Praying for those who thirsted for his blood." Amongst the pictures, the place of honour is CARISBROOKE CASTLE. IQQ occupied by a line portrait, handsomely framed in carved oak from the roof of the Great Hall, of the late Prince Henry of Battenberg, in his uniform as Governor of the Isle of Wight. There is also a water-colour of the youthful Henry, Duke of Gloucester, after Van Dyke, by Lady Abercronibie. This picture used to h^yig in Queen Victoria's bedroom at Osborne. There are also a number of ancient coins, spear lieads, suits of armour, and other curiosities. In the circular room beyond are other prints, and a facsimile of the warrant for the execution of Charles I. On entering the Base-court, with its well-kept lawns, we turn left to where some stone steps lead up to the Ram- parts. We can walk almost roimd, the prospect over the surrounding country being delightful. The curtain wall is probablv Norman, but was restored and altered by. (jianibelli, the Italian engineer employed by Elizabeth at the time of the Armada scare. The " Knights" at the south-west and south-east corners and the external wall and ditch and sally ports are also his work. In one part the pathway passes right outside the wall, but this is a modern innovation. A flight of seventv-one irregular and well worn steps leads from the courtyard to the Keep, the most ancient portion of the pile. It stands upon an artificial mound (probablv of Saxon origin) fifty-eight feet high. With the exception ofc that at Windsor this is probably the most perfect speci- men of a Norman shell in existence. An archway on the left leads to the well-chamber, in which is a well said to have been originalh^ of tremendous depth, but now choked up. Two lireplaces and an oven, dating probably from the fourteenth century, were recently discovered. A short flight of steps leads to the parapet above, from which the view is, of course, even more extensive than from the ramparts. Opposite the gatehouse is the Great Hall (the lower part twelfth century work, the upper Elizabethan). The altera- tions were made by Sir George Carey, and were chiefly Ve7v«,] [S/ic WELL AND DUXKKV, CAKISUKUUKE CASTLK. after the rate of four hogsheads of wine weekly, inasmuch as the laundry was never without a hogshead of wine and a cold pasty of venison for the maids." Charles I. was lodged in this block of buildings until his first attempt to escape (sec p. 196), and in a room over the lobby, marked by a tablet, the Princess Elizabeth died. These cheerless rooms, with their old-world air, would be interesting even had they no historical associations. At the south-east corner of the Hall are the remains of a small domestic Chapel built by Ladv Isabella in 1270. CARISBROOKE CHURCH. 201 Lciiviiig the Hall, \vc sec on the right the ruins of the Officers' Quarters, in the upper storey of wliich was the suite of apartments occupied by Charles at the time of his second attempt to escape {sec p. 196). The Well House is a restored sixteenth-century building, and is regarded bj' many people, especially juveniles, as the most interesting feature of the castle. The well is one hundred and sixty feet deep, and the water is drawn up by means of an ingeniouslj^ contrived draw-wheel (15 feet in diameter), to which an intelligent donkev supplies the motive power, expecting an acknowledgment when his work is done. The water is more remarkable for coolness than for purity. An electric light is switched on to give an idea of the depth. The former tilt-yard was converted into a Bowling: Green in 1648 for the use of Charles I. The earthern banks which almost surround it are the remains of the original "Caer," or British encampment. The ruined Chapel of St. Nicholas, erected 1738 on the site of an older building, and unroofed in 1856, will be noticed near the Gatehouse. On the initiative of Princess Henry of Battenburg funds have rectntly been raised to restore it. Close to the castle is a large Dominican Convent. Caris- brooke House, close by, is occupied b}- a community of French imns. In fact the Isle of Wight seems to have speci- ally appealed to the reUgious orders expelled from France in recent years. Carisbrooke Church is considered by Mr. Percy G. Stone " the most important ecclesiastical building in the Isle of Wight." //' if is iiol open inquire at the post office, just below, for tlie l;ey. The building was formerly attached to a Priory, of which there are practically no remains. The Perpendicular tower (see date 1470 on west face*) is very finely proportioned ; and it i> matter for deep regret that the misbehaviour of certain persons should have led the vicar to withdraw the privilege formcrlv enjoved by visitors of ascending the well-worn steps to the belfrv and leads. The church was at one time 202 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. much larger, but Sir Francis Walsingham, Elizabeth's Secretary of State, had the chancel pulled down, persuading the parishioners that this was the most economical way of repairing it ! The south aisle is separated from the nave by a Late Norman arcade. The " Puritan pulpit," dated 1658, should by all means be seen. There are several curious and interesting monuments in the church, and against one of the pillars of the nave is a board in memory of William Keeling (1619), " Groom of the Chamber of our Sovereign Lord King James, General of the Hon. East India Adventurers." The churchyard also has a rich store of epitaphs. That .on Charles Dixon, a blacksmith, has been often quoted, but as the letters are no longer legible we make no apology for reprinting it : * " My sledge and hammer lie reclined ; My bellows, too, have lost their wind ; My fire's extinct, my forge decayed ; My vice all in the dust is laid ; My coal is spent, my iron gone ; My last nail's driven ; my work is done." A gravestone of later date, 1851, to 'James Flux, should also be sought out. * The verse starts : "We leave j'ou here, our friend so dear," but regard for our readers' feelings compels us to omit the rest. This "friend so dear" is recorded to have left behind ten children, fifty-nine grandchildren, and lifty-one great- grandchildren. The Roman Villa (A dm issio n sixpc nee) is in the Vicarage grounds. It was discovered in the spring of 1859. The largest apartment is about forty feet by twenty-two. The mosaic pavement is well preserved ; but the remains are neither so extensive nor so interesting as those near Brading. Either Newport or Carisbrooke would make a capital * Almost exactly similar epitaphs are to be seen in the old moorland church of Lastmgham, Yorkshire, at Long Ncwnton, Gloucestershire, at Longnor, Staffordshire, and other places. ■203 204 GUIDE TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. centre for downland (or should we rather say, upland ?) walks. Westward there is the fine tramp to Freshwater (described reverse way on pp. 162-4), eastward over St. George's, Arreton and Ashey Downs to Brading, and south- ward 7'id G-atoom'be, with its park and ancient church, to Chale, Blackgang, and the Undercliff. Cycling Routes from Newport. I. To Cowes, via Northwood (five miles), or Whippiugham (six miles) (p. 187). II. To Ryde (rt), via Haven Street (eight miles), or (b) Wootton Bridge (seven and a quarter miles) (p. 45). III. To Bembridge, 77(( Downend and Brading — stiff climbing in places, and care required during descent of Brading Down (eleven and a half miles). I\'. To Sandown, via Arreton (nine and a half miles) (p. 90). V. To Shanklin, via Godshill and Rookley (nine miles). VI. To Ventnor, ((T) via Godshill and Whitely Bank (ten and three-quarter miles), [b] via Godshill, Whitwell and St, Lawrence (eleven and three-quarter miles). VII. To Chale, via Gatcombe and Kingston Cross (eight and a half miles). \'I1I. To Niton, via Blackwater and Rookley (eight and a half miles). IX. To Yarmouth. (a) via Shalfleet (nine and three-quarter miles). Proceed northward by St. James Street as if for Cowes, to Parkhurst Workhouse. Turn sharp to left, and follow telegraph wires all the way. Road is good and unmistakable to Shalfleet and Yarmouth. (b) via Carisbrooke, Calbournc and Neivbridge (ten and three-quarter miles). Proceed along the Malls, and at Simeon Monument turn right for Carisbrooke village (left for Castle). Then comes a very steep hill, after which the road, though somewhat stony, is good to Sun Inn (Calbourne a little to left). Keep straight on to fork, where bear right- ward for Yarmouth (left to P'resh water). X. To Freshwater Bay (eleven miles). Proceed as IX. (b), turning /('// at ff)rk hc>'ond Calbourne. At Chessel, road from Ventnor joins, and rest of route is described under VI. on p. 107. For Index sec pp. 205-8. THE FIRST DETACHABLE pneumatic tyre N W I R E S ^ NORTH BRITISH RUBBER CO., LTD., CASTLE MILLS, EDINBURGH. <'THE SPLENDID SUCCESS" which has attended the operations of the NORWICH UNION LIFE OFFICE is due not only to its STRONG FINANCIAL POSITION but also to the Attractiveness of its New Schemes, AMONG THE MOST POPULAR ARE THE A% INCREASING POLICY 5 o GUARANTEED INCOME POLICY HALF PREMIUM ENDOWMENT EIGHT OPTION POLICY, and the New [ BUSINESS^ 1903, £3,131,728 NON-FORFEITABLE PROVISIONS FOR AGE Particulars of any of the above on. application to The Sf.cretarv— . NORWICH UNION LIFE OFFICE, NORWICH. To face matter, .it end,. USL TH EM ^ you kL.S&£ Ch^ARLY.^i, "LORD ROBERTS SPRING." Hungary's Best Natural Mineral Water, AS SLI'l'I.tKD TO THE ROYAL VICTORIA MOSmAL, NETLEY. GRRAT SPECIFIC FOR GOUT, RHEUMATISM, LIVER COMPLAINTS, AND INDIGESTION. HIGHLY SPOKEN OF BY THE "LANCET." On Sale at the ARMY AND NAVY STORES, and all Chennsf;. WhoUsale: IDRIS, Ltd., LONDON, N.W. JACOB'S GENUINE GERMAN PILSENER LAGER BEER. SOLD EVERYWHERE. CHARLES LANCASTER GUNMAKER BY WARRANTS OF APPOINTMENT TO His Majesty the King-, H.I.M. the German Emperor, H.R.H. Prinee Christian, &e., &e., &c., Invites application for his Illustrated Gun and Rifle Catalogue and Special Cartiidge Lists. SINGLE-TRIGGER GUNS A SPECIALITY. HIGH VELOCITY 'CORDITE' RIFLES. 256, 303, 370. and .450 Bore. 'ROSS' Straight-Pun MAGAZINE RIFLES. SPECIALLY RECOMMENDED. Lee Enfields, Mausers, and Mannlicher Rifles. ■■ The Art of Shooting," 25. 6it. iSixtli .and I'opuUr I.aition). Postage Bd, extra. irti/t Fitiift^ a7ld Coaching at PriVite Shootini^ Croniui mar iVilUsden Juiutwn, London, N.H . Hsl.-ihlished in 1826 at 151, Ntw Bond Street. W. Rejiioved to laryer aad more convuiiieut prciiiibes, 11, Panton St., Kaparket, London, S.W. lo A,.c /), I Ki sHW \ri K Afton Down, 141, 164 Albany Barracks, The, 18.^ Alexander Pillar, The, 128 Alum Bay, 156, 158-151; Alverstone, 87 Appley, 48 Appuldurconibc, 105 Arched Rock, The, 154 Arreton, 88-89 Arreton Down, 8g Ashey, 57-59 Ashey Down, 57-5S B. Bar Cave, i 54 Battenhcrg Chapel, The, 181 Bembridge, 60-62, 63-66 Bembridge Down, 59, 67 Bembridge Lodge, 68 Bembridge Point, 64 Blackgang Chine, i35-'3f' Blackwatcr, 90 Binstead, 53-54, 59 Bonchurch, 1 18-122 Bonchurch Pond, 120 Bowcombe Down, 164 Brading. 69-73 Bull King, The. 70 Church, The, 71-73 INDEX. Brading — continued Little Jane's Cottage, Grave.and Memorial, 72-73 Oglander Chapel, The. 71-73 Public Hall, 71 Town Hall, The, 71 Brading Down, 58 Brading Harbour, 61 Brixton, 139-140 Brixton Down, 164 Brook, 141 Brook Down, 141, 164 Brook House, 140 C. . Calbourne, 186 Calshot Castle, 166 Carisbrooke, 192-203 Castle, 193-201 Chapel of St. Nicholas, 200 Church, 201-202 Museum, 198 Koman Villa, 202 Causeway, The, 150 Centurion's Copse.The, 68 Chale, 137 Chale Farm House, 137 205 Chale Green, 137 Circular Forts, The, 21 Climate, 13-16 Bembridge, 16 Blackgang, 15 Chale, 15 Cowes, 15 Freshwater, 15 Gurnard Bay, 15 Newtown, 15 Ryde, i6, 23 Sandown and Shanklin, 15-16 Thorness Bav, 1 5 llnderclitf. The, 15-16 Ventnor, 15-16 Yarmouth, 15 Coach Drives, 7-8, 43, 130-14 1 Col well Bay, 150, 102 ! Consumption Hospital, The National, 130-131 t Cook's Castle, 105 j Cowes, East, 174 1 Beatrice Avenue, 175 Castle, 175 SI at woods, 175 Towji Hall, 175 I York Avenue, 175 j Cowes, 166-174 ! Bathing, 166-172 2o6 INDEX, Cowes — coiiiiniicd. Banks, i66 Castle, The, i68 Clubs, The, i66 Egypt, 172 Egypt Point, 172 Ferries, The, 166 Floating Bridge, The, '74 Holv Triuitv Church, 174 " Island Sailing Club," The, 171 London Yacht Club, 1 71 New Esplanade, The, 172 Parade, The, 168 Pier, ifiS Places of Worship, 167 Postal Information, 167 Prince's Green, 172 Regatta, The, 1 70-171 Roman Catholic Church, 174 Roval Yacht Squadron, The, 168-169 St. Mary's Church, 174 Steamers, The, 167 Victoria Pier, 168 Zig-zag, 172 Cripple Path, The, 126 Culver Cliff, 67-68 Cycling Routes — PYom Cowes, 187 From Newport, 204 From Ryde, 44-46 From Sandown, 90 From Shanklin, 106-108 From Ventnor, 143 London to Lymington, 6 London to Portsmouth, 5 London to Southamp- ton, 6 D. DAniviiAN's Daughter, The, 88 Distances — From Freshwater Bay, 154 i From Newport, 188 From Ryde, 47 : From Sandown, 83 From Shanklin, 1)9 F'rom Ventnor, 122 j From Yarmouth, 147 London to Portsmouth, ' 5 London to Southamp- ton, 6 Downs, The, 8-10, 57-59 | Ducie Avenue, 64-66 I E. East Cowes, see Cowes, East East Dene, 102 Egypt, 172 Egypt Point, 172 Farkingford, 152-153 Fernhill, 57 Firestone Copse, 59 Fishbourne, 55 Foreland, The, 66 Freemantle Lodge, 106 Frenchman's Hole, The, 154-156 Freshwater, 151-152 Freshwater Bay, 153-154 Freshwater Cave, 154 Gatcombe, 204 Geologj', 11-13 Godshill, 106, 142-143 Golf Links, xxi Freshwater Bay, 153 Isle of Wight, 65 Needles, The, 153 Shanklin, 91, 100 Ventnor, 113 Gore Cliff, 126 Gosport, 20-21 Grand Arch, The, 156 Gurnard Bay, 174 H. Haslar Hospital, 21 Haven Street, 59 Haylands, 59 Headon Hill, 160 Heatherwood Point, 160 Hermit's Hole, The, 68 High Hat, The, 126, 142 History of the Island, 16-17 Holmes, Sir Robert, 149 Horringford, 88 " Home of Rest," The, 84 How to get about the Island- By coach, 7-8 By cycle, 8 By railway, 6-7 By steamer, 8, 41-43 How to reach the Island, 2-6 Cycling routes- Fid Lymington, 6 Via Portsmouth, 5 Via Southampton, 5-C Railway routes — Via Lymington, 4-6 Via Portsmouth, 2-4 How to reach Island- Railway routes — contd. Via Southampton, 4 Via Stokes Bay, 4 I. Infirmary, The Royal Isle of Wight, 38 Isle of Wight College, The, 40 Isle of Wight Cricket Ground, The, 84 Kingston, 137 L. Lake, 84 Home of Rest, 84 Landslip, The, 100-102 Limerston, 138 : Literary Note, A, 17-18 Little Jane, 72-73 Little Stairs Point, 83 Lock's Green, 184 London Yacht Club, 171 Long Stone, The, at Mot- tistone, 140 Lord Holmes's Parlour, 156 Lord Holmes's Kitchen, 156 Luccombe Chine, 100 Lucconibe Down, 103 Lymington, 146 M. Main Beach, The, 156 Mersley Down, 88 Merstone, 90 Merstone Junction, 143 Monks' Bay, 118 Morton Farm, 85 Mottistone, 140 Mottistone Down, 164 Mount's Bay, 124 N. National Hospital for Consumption, 130-131 Naval College, 178 Needles, The, 156, 158 Neptune's Cave, 154 Netley Abbey, 166 Newchurch, 88 New Forest, The, 165 Newport, 188-192 , Banks, 188 Free Club and Library, 188 Free Grammar School, The, 191 Guild Hall, The, 191 Hotels, 1 88 INDEX. 207 Xcwpoit — conlitiiicd Mall. The, 192 MLiiinrial of Qneeii Victoria, ii)i Monument to the Prin- cess Klizabeth, The, Museum, 188, 191 Postal Information, 188 Places of Worship, i88 (Jucen Victoria Memo- rial. i8y, 191 St. Thomas's Church, 189-191 Simeon Monument, The. ig2 Statue of Lord Chief Justice Fleminj*, 191 Xeutoun, 184 Xiton, 12O-128 Xorris Castle, 175 Xorthwood, 183 Xorton, 130 O. OBELISK .XT Al'PL'LUl'K- COMBE. 105-106 Old Pepper Rock, 156 Osborne, 175-79 Convalescent Home, 177 Koval Xaval College. 178 State Rooms. 178 Osborne Cottajje. 178 P. Pakkhcrst Forest. 183 Paikhurst Prison, 183 Pine Raft, The. Brook Point. 136. 156 Portsmouth Dockyard, 20 Portsmouth Harbour, 20 Puckpool Battery, 48 Q- QcARR Abbey, 54 Ouarr Abbey House, 54-55 R. Uailw AYS, The Island, 6-7 Railway Trip,s, 6-7; 42. 87-j Lift, 94 Old Church, The. t)7-y,S Old Village. The. 97 Pier, The. 94 Places of Worship, 91 Post Oftices, 91 208 INDEX. Shanklin — con filmed St. Paul's Chuich, qg St. Saviour's-on-the- Cliff, gg Shanklin Down, 104, 105 Shide, go Shorwell, 137-138 Solent Yacht Club, The, 149 Southampton, 165 Southampton Docks, The, 165-166 Southampton Water, 166 Southlands, 135 Southsea, 21 Spithead, 21-22 Spring Vale, 48 Stag Rock, The, 154 Steephill Castle, 130, 142 Steephill Cove, 124 Stokes Bay, 21 Swainstone. 1.86 Texxysox Cross, The, 157-158 Tennyson's Bridge, 153 " Tennyson's Down," 156-157 Topography of the Island, 8-1 1 Totland Bay, 160-162 U. Underclikk, The, 131-136 Ventnor, 109- 1 17 ■V'entnor — continued Amusements, 113 Bathing, 113 Cemetery, 117 Central Railway Sta- tion, 113, 116 Chimney Steps, 118 Clubs, 113 Crab and Lobster, The, 117 Esplanade, The, 114 Free Library and Read- ing Room, 113 Golf'Course, 1 13 Hotels, 113 Isle of Wight Railway Station, 117 Pavilions, The, 114, 117 Pier, The, 117 Park. The. 117 Places of Worship. 113 Post Office, 117 St. Catherine's Church, n6 Triangle, The, 114-5 Town Station, 116 Trinity Church, 116 Victoria Memorial, i8q, iqi Victoria Yacht Club, The Royal, 28 Victory, The, 20 W. W.4LKS, 46-59, 66-68, 83-87, 99-106, 122-130, 156-164. 172, 173-186, 203 Watchingwell, 187 Wedge Rock, 156 Wcstover, 186 Whippingham, 179 Battenberg Chapel The, 181 Church, The, 180 White Cliff Bay, 66-67 Whitely Bank, 106 Whitwell. 142 Whitwell Shute. 126 Wishing Well, The, 123 Woody" Point and Bay, 124 Wootton Bridge, 56-57 Wootton Creek. 56 Wroxall, 105 Y. Yacht Clubs— London, 171 Royal Victoria, 28 Solent, 149 Yacht Squadron, The Royal. 168-169 Yar, The, 145-146 Yar. The Eastern, 61-62, 85, 87, 12S Yarbridge, 85 Yarmouth, 147-150 [147 Boating and Bathing, Castle.'^The, 147 Causeway, The, 15c Church, The, 147-149 Distances from, by Road, 147 Hotels, 147. 149 Railway, The, 147 Solent Yacht C:ub- house, The, 149 Statue of Sir Robert Holmes, 149 Yaverland, S5-H6 rWVIN BROTHERS, LIMITED, THE (JRESH.^M PRE.SS, WOKINC. AND LONDON WARD, LOCK & CO.'S GUIDE BOOK ADVERTISER. For Terms, (S-c, apply Mr. Henry S. Thomas, Advertising Manager, Warwick House, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street, London, E.C. ESTABLISHED 1809. NORTH BRITISH&MERCANTILE INSURANCE COMPANY. President His Grace the Duke of Sutherland, K.G. Vice-Presiileiil ... The Most Hon. the Marquess of Zetland, K.T. Total Funds £16,900,000 Total Revenue £3,500,000 LIFE DEPARTMENT. STRONG RESERVES. VALUABLE BONUSES. LIBERAL CONDITIONS. Policies on Male and Female Eadowments, Term Insur- Lives from £100 upwards. | ances. Survivorships. ,. . Interim Bonus Additions. 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Guide Book Advertiser GENUINE CHLORODYNE OKIGINAL, AND Every Bottle of this well-known REl^EDY For Coughs, Colds, Asthma, Bronchitis, Neuralgia, Diarrhoea, Dysentery, etc., F.ears on the Stamp the name of the In\entor, .......... Dr.J.CollisBrowne N.B. — Numerous Testimonials from Eminent Physicians accompany each Bottle, Of all Chemists, 1 1^, 2 9, and 4 6. Guide Book Advertiser PERFUMED FURNITURE STONE'S s A s E CREAM. FREE FROM FINGER MARKS. LITTLE LABOUR. PERFECT POLISH. PLEASANT PERFUME. Sold in Jiotfles, Od,, Is., and 28, each. Proprietors :-STONE & SON, CHEMISTS, EXETER. PICTORIAL POST CARDS, Plain and Coloured, of all places of note in the United Kingdom, Fancy Subjects, &c., &c. Please ask for Frith's. Retail of all Stationers; Wholesale of F. FRITH and CO., Ltd., REIGATE, LONDON, and CHARFIELD. The Lord Bisnor of Newcastle recommends — T»R0CT01?'S PINELYPTUS (Broncho-Laryngeal) ^AST'Il^l^ES. THET ACT LIKB A CHARM ON THE THROAT, VOICE, AND CHEST. Madame Sarah Bernhardt uses them with great success, and recommends them. A great boon to sufTei-ers from Asthma, Laryngitis, Loss of Voice, Cough, and all Bronchial and Voice Troubles. INVALUABLE TO SPEAKERS, SINGERS, Etc. The Countess Delawarr " Finds they give great relief.'' Sir Henry Irving: " They aie excellent." Miss Ellen Terry "Finds ' Pinelyptus ' better than any other Lozenge or Pastille for the Voice." 1/- and 2/6 per Box, from Chemists and Stores. Insist on having "PINELYPTUS" PROCTOR'S PINELYPTUS DEPOT, NEWCASTLE ONTYNE, Guide Book Advertiser \> o o o o oo -^^c^c^oocj KEATING'S POWDER.! HARMLESS TO ANIMALS. HARMLESS TO ANIMALS. KILLS FLEAS, MOTHS, BEETLES. Sold in Tins, 3d., 6d., Is. each. KILLS FLEAS, MOTHS, BEETLES. i The PUBLIC are CAUTIONED that my Powder is sold only in tins, each bearing the autograph of THOMAS KEATING. j>0-^K>^K>000-C^>C^OC^>COOOO^^OS- soxiXD E ^v^ E lEe ^s" a:^ n E le ."n: . -c-^- Fnv Xeaffst At/pnt apply PALETHORPES Ltd., DUDLEY PORT. Auctioneers, Estate Agents, ^c. HhordaUOnnU Mnn -IOMKINS & capper, F.A.I., Auctioneers RUclgaVClllljf, llIUll. is: Estate Agents, Fiogmore Chambers. Agents for principal furnished & unfurnislied Residences, Fishings, Shoot- - ings, &c. Tel.—" Tonikins, Abergavenny." P.O. Telephone 24. Rath —POWELL c^ POWELL, House Agents. Lists of Properties DCllli, sent free on application. Removal & Warehousing Contractors. iS, Old Bond Street, Bath; and the Paddington Depositories, London. W. Tels. — " Powells, liath. ' "Depositing, London." RDvbiIl_An_st Free. Offices — Promenade. ^.^___________^__^ pijf+nri LALONDE BROTHERS & PARHAM, Auctioneers and vllllUil Valuers, House Agents, and Removal Contractors, 7, Royal Promenade, Cliftcn, Bristol. Register of Houses Free. Ciomer-H. J. LIMMER, HOUSE AGENT, SHERINGHAM & COUNTY NORFOLK offices :-CROMER, SHERINGHAM, MUNDE8LEY. Facfhnnrno — l"^- ^^ ■ HAMHI.VN, House and Estate Agent. Est. LdolUUm UG. i8yi. Write for particulars of Apartments and Houses to lie Let or Sohl. — 8, Elms Buildings, Eastbourne. CQcfhrmr>Tin^OAKDEN& CO., House Agents, Auctioneers, Surveyors, lidbllJUUllltJ & Valuers. (Estd. 1879), 10, Cornfield Rd. Extensive selection of the principal Residences for Sale and to Let. Illus- trated Register, with map of town, gratis. Telephone 04ST. Pvmmith "^ District.- HLACK.MORE .S; SON'S, F.A.I., House and Es- liAlllUulll tate .Agenis, Auctioneers tV \'aluers. Furnishers, Removal i^ Storage Contractors, L'pholsterers. Full list of furnished and un- fnrnished Houses to be Sold or Let on application — ^6. Rolle St. PvTnAIlth -Furnished or Unfurnished Houses. For particulars of all LAUlUUlll. Properties write for Free Illustrated List to CREWS anu SON, Oldest-Established House Agents, Auctioneers, Furnishers, Removers, Uudertakers. 4&6, Rolle Street, Auctioneers, Estate Agents, Qfc. fiU„npQfA|, — BRUTON, KNOVVLES & CO., Estate Agents, Sur- ulUUuuOluii veyors, Auctioneers, & Valuers, Albion Chambers, King Street. Free Illustrated Property Register on Application. Telegrams — " Brutons, Gloucester." Telephone No. 67. Hampton Court & East Moleseyr^f ^'dNs': Au^HonJ;i^, Valuers, House S: Estate Agents. Guide to District Post Free. Telegrams — " Griffin, East Molesey." Nat. Tel. — 44, Molesey. Uantin()Q & St. Leonards House Agency, illustrated List ot Fur- JldollilgO nished & Unfurnished Houses, with Map, gratis. Boarding and Apartment Houses for Sale. Apply Mr. Holman, Cheapside, King's Road. Telegrams — "Holman, St. Leonards-on-Sea." HprnP RaV '^^ District. -JOSEPH GRIPPER, F.S.I., Estate Agent JlclliC D(lj and Auctioneer. Register of Estates, Houses, Bunga- lows, Sites to be Let or Sold, Post Free. — CHAS. CHARTER, Estate Agent, Surveyor, & Valuer, 4, Bond St. Charter's Property List contains 1,300 Properties for Sale. Charter's To Let List contains 200 Properties To Let. Published monthly, gratis. Established 18 years. Hull IlfrarftmhP"-'^"^*^ Devon House and Estate Agency. Houses & Illia,uUillUC Business Premises of every description. Furnished House and Apartments a speciality. Furniture removed. Estimates free. Telegrams: " Kempe, lllracombe." Telephone i & 2, Ilfra combe. IlfParftTTlhP"^" ^' J^UTCHINGS, Auctioneer and Estate Agent, will lllllluUlilUG forward particulars of all available Residences to be Let or Sold, Furnished Houses & Apartments. Estimates for Removal of Furniture to ail n3rts. Offices & Sale Rooms, 112, High Street. It SONS, House and Estate Agents. ICUlliUl, 1. II. Lists of Isle of Wight Properties free. Offices— Church Street, Ventnor. Tclo nf Widhf-Sandown, Shanklin, bemoriage, & District.— IDIC Ul nlgUl G. W. S. WITHERS (Chief Office : Opposite Railway Station), Sandovvn. Furnished & Unfurnished Houses to be Let »S: Propertie s for Sale. Lists free on application. Established 1868. F. Le GALLAIS, House Agent & Auetioneer. Removals and Warehousing. Property List on application. Jersey 1 nnHnn ^/MtBA— J^^^^, L.^NG & CO., Auctioneers, Agents, & Sur- XiUllUUU \\j\Vi) veyors, 3, King St., Cheapside, E.C., 95, Leadenhatl St., E.C., 27, Chancery Lane, W.C. List of Business Premises to be Let or Sold, free. Sales at the Mart monthly. Telegrams — " Wonderment, London." Telephone — 830 Centra l. I atiHati —PHILIP STOCK, F.A.I., Auctioneer, Surveyor, Valuer, XiUllUUll. Estate, and House .\gent, 349, Coldharbour Lane, Brixton, S.W. Sales at the Mart, Tokenhouse Yard, E.C., monthly, or other dates as required. Telegrams — " Affabrous, London." Telephone No. 395 Hop. Established 1866. Auctioneers, Estate Agents, dfc. xV TnHflnn 'East)— C. C. & T. MOORE, Auctioneers, Surveyors, and IJUUUUU Estate Agents, conduct House Property Sales at the Auction Mart on Thursdays (held continuously for seventy ) ears). Chief OlTices— 7, Leadenhall Street, E.C. LOWGSlOIl 1IOIIS6 AgGDl. ',S;c.', Pler Terrace, will ioiVard free oil applicatiijn a List of fuinishi'd Houses (sunie with shady gar- dens), unfurnished Houses, Sho])'., Apartments, &c. J. F. DEWICK (late Walter Williams), House & Estate Agent. Apply for List of Houses or Properties to Let, Furnished or Unfurnished. Offices — 15, The Avenue. Now RvnTTinfAn and Glllingham Districts. — HIBBARD & lien DlUm|;iUU Clifford, Auctioneers, valuers, and Estate Agents. Offices — Balmoral Road, New Brompton. Telegrams — "Clifford, New Brompton." Telep hone No. 4. Houses in Oxford H \mMr''^!^^^^i^^,%l^^^ and unfurnished Resiliences to Let in and around Oxford. Property Re}.:istiT gr.ais. ( itliee-,— 1 1, Corn Market St., Oxford. Pitlnrhl'V central Perthshire Highlands.— List of Furnished niiUUUlJ, Houses to Let for Summer Months, &c.. Free by Post, from C. C. STUART & SON. Telegrams — " Stuart, Pitlochry." PlVmnilth ELLIOTT ELLIS & CO., F.A.I., House .\gents, rljllluUlll .\uctioneers & Valuers. Extensive Monthly Register of Furnished and Unfurnished Houses, Properties, and Estates. Telegrams — " Negotiate, Plymouth." Telephone No. 153. Plymouth^ and Devonport=^?S!;'niy 1?,^--^, l\^i Aubyn St., Devonport, .-Vuctioneers, Hotel Valuers, House and Business Transfer --Vgents. Partnerships Negotiated. Tel . 0914. Rirhmnnfl Hoikp A^pnf-^^- Pennington, Railway stations, UllUmUliU nUUoC HgCUL Richmond, Suawberry Hill, & Mortlake. Illustrated List Free. Ring up 5 Richmond. UinhTTinnrl CiirrPU— CHANCELLOR .^ sons. Old Established nltlllllUlJU, OUllCJf House Agents, Surveyors, Auctioneers, and \'aluers. X\\ available Houses to be Let or Sold. Illustrated Register fre». 5', Pall Mall, S.W., and .-Vscot. QQllhllT'n \\\l tho QoQ — For particulars of Fumished Houses & Apart- OalLUUlll-Ujf-lilO-lJOa ments, also Residences and Houses for Sale or to Let, apply to H. H.-VMILTON, House & Estate Agent, Victoria Library, Saltburn. Esiablished iS36. OUrDllOn a,n(l DlSinCl. Auctioneers,' valuers, are Agents for 'all the best Properties to be Let or Sold. Printed List Free. Offices- 4, V'ictoria Road, Surhiton. Qftiifhcfla South Hants, & West Sussex.— For Selected List of OUUlllOda, Houses (Furnished iV Unfurnished) to be Let, and for Sale, apply FIELD & P.VLMER, Auctioneers and Estate Agents, 3, King s Road, Southsea, and o. North Street, Emsworth. Southsea, Portsmouth, Havani^^^^;r"(5^b;r^,^\^oa^d,'^i'omh^s^a (3 niiniUes' walk from Snuihsea Pier). For furnished and un- furnished Ileuses tol>'' 1 ( ti'rSold. .Also Business Premises, &c. Qniifh Uanfc including Southampton and the New Forest.— OUUIU nalllO, PKKRINS ,^ sons (Address, SouthaTupton), Estate and House Agents, .\neti'ineeis, Valueis, t^ Surveyors. Monthly Li st on application. ICslahlished nearly a Century. Qnffnn QlirP0Ar~~3'^'^ f^^' above se.a level. Golf. 25 minutes' from OUllUli, OUliCj London Bridge or Victoria. List of Houses to be Let or Sold, post free, from the House and Estate Agents, Messrs. DIXON & CO. xvi Auctioneers, Estate Agents, <2>°c. VhnnhofiH'c Rlich Acton & Ealiny.— C. RAWLEY CROSS & Co. DlicpilClU DUOU, Houses, Flats, and Business Premises for Sale orto be Let. Offices (facing Tube Stn.), Shepherd's Bush ; (facing the Church) High Street, Acton ; and 37, Broadway, Ealing, W. TftrnilflV — cox & son, f.a.i., House Agents, M J Auctioneers, & Valuers, 4, Victoria Parade. Established 1805. Illustrated List on application. Nat. Tel. 75. TlinhriHd^l WpIIQ — ^^^ Garden of Kent. Illustrated iUllUilUgC 11 Clio Register of Estates and Houses post free of BRACKETT & SONS, Estate Agents & Auctioneers, 27 & 29, High Street, Tunbridge Wells, and 34, Craven Street, Charing Cross, W.C. New Ser\"ice of 13 express trains, without stop, between Tunbridge Wells and London (Cannon Street in 48 minutes). "Tunbridge Wells," says the Sunday Times, "appears likely, during the Winter Season, to rival the Riviera in popularity. Many of our eminent doctors, including Sir William Broadbent, declare its climate to be simply perfection. It is a perfect ground of miracle for hopeless cases." Wocf An Clinfly Mara — f ropeny Register of Freehold and Unfurnished nCblUll-bUpcl-lUdIC Residences to be Let & Sold ; Businesses for Disposal, Shops, &c. Apply MASTERS & MOON, Auctioneers, &c., 3, South Parade. Established 1863. Telephone iix. WPVmnilth"^' ^- fuller, 33, St. Thomas St., Auctioneer, Valuer, 11 Cj lUUUlll Hotel Broker, & House Agent. Register free on application. —Apply to iNORALVN & SPENCER for Register oi all ttie best houses & shops to be let or sold. Furnished and unfurnished. Register free. Personal attention lo all who call. And at West Worthing. ARCHER &SONS,"ISaS° 73, Lord Street, LIVERPOOL. The Renowned "ARCHER EXPRESS" tVlagazine Hand Camera. TAKES PLATES OR FILMS. BEWARE OP IMITATIONS. Simplest and Best. Improved up to date. Best workmanship. Best results. Hundreds of Testimonials. Universal satisfaction. AH made of seasoned mahogany and covered with best Morocco Leather. Prices— 17/6 25/- 35/- 42/- 70/- Illustrafrti Cnfiiloffiif, t'iO par/es, free on application. THE FOLLOWING IS WARD, LOCK & CO.'S I r^ D E X RAILWAYS— Belgian St>.te Railway Caledonian Railway ... Cambrian Railway ... District Railway Festiniog Railway ... Furness Railway Glasgow and South Western Railway ... Great Eastern Railway lo* Great Northern Railway 7* Great Northern (Ireland) 22* Great Southern and Western Railway ... 20* Great. Western Railway 11* RAILWAYS 12* , Midland Railway 6* North British Railway j„* I South Eastern and ' Chatham Railway ... ^^* i West and South Clare 18* ' Railways 3* i 4* Highland Railway ... Isle of Wight Railway Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway London and North Western Railway ... 9* 5* M* i London and South Western Railway Curtiss & Sons. Ltd.. Depositories Guule 'series 1904-5. 2 STEAMERS— The Bibby Line British & Irish Steam- packet Co. ... Dr. Lunn's Cruises ... Elder, Dempster & Co. Gibson, G. & Co. ... Leith, Hull, and rtam- burg Steampacket Co. Liverpool and North Wales Steamship Co.. Ltd London & Edinburgh Shipping Co. MacBrayne's. D. General Steam Navi- gation Company ... , 28* 13* 30* 23* 24' 27* 27* 26* 25* 32* Railway Routes MidlandArailway, MIDLAND EXPRES5TRA1H5 Befween Principal TOWNSiClIIES THE FOR SEEING THE PEAK OF Derbyshire Undo^Burns 3irWalt7rScoti U^^ SKFFIUO •JIESTiKFICLO 'JHCOt-nJ OERBY^lJJfHOTTmCHAM BOURHCMOUTH •^uasTin hBCDFOfio ^^ANCRAS ^SOUTHAMPTON TOURIST AND OTHER CHEAPTieKETSl TO THE WateringPlacesI derbyshire Yorkshire lancashii EasternCouniiesI 5outh6West| England NORTHofIRELANOI AND Scotland. Raihvay Routes Twenty Coach and Steam Yacht Tours THROUGH ENGLISH LAKELAND DAILY during JUNE, JULY, No. I. — Outer Circular Tour, embracing Windermere Lake, Fut- ness Abbey, and Coniston. — Fare fioin 5/3, No. 2. —Inner Circular Tour, embracing Furness Abbey, Coniston F^ake (Gondola), and Crake Val- ley. — Fare from 3/3. No. 3.— Grange and Windermere CirCUlarTOUr, embracing Grange, Arnside, Kendal, and Windermere Lake. — Fare from 2/9. No. 4.— Middle Circular Tour, embracing Windermere Lake, the Crake Valley, and Coniston Lake. — Fare from 5/9. No. 5.— Red Bank and Grasmere Tour, via. -Ambleside and Skelwith Force, reluming via Rydal Water. — Fare from 2/9. No.u 6. — Thirlmere, Grasmere, and Windermere Tour, via Ambleside, Clappersgate, and Red Bank, and round Thirlniere Lake. — Fare from 5/- No. 7.— The Four Lakes Circular Tour, viz., Coniston, Grasmere, Rydal, and Windermere. — Fare from s/g. No. 8. —Coniston to Coniston Tour, via Red Bank, Grasmere, and Ambleside, returning by Coach to Coniston. — Fare from 4/6. No. 9.— Tarn Hows Tour, via Am- bleside and Coniston, returning by Tilberthwaite and Elterwater. — Fare fron\ 4/6. For further particulars see "TOUrS through Lakeland" Pamphlets, to be had gratis at all Furness Railway Stations ; of Mr. F. J. Ramsden, Super- intendent of the Line, Barrow-in-Furness ; at Messrs. Thos. Cook & Sons, and the Polytechnic Institute, Regent Street, W. ; or Messrs. W. H. Smith & Sons' principal Bookstalls. Price Ad. Barrow with Fleetwood for Blackpool.— During the Summer months the Furness Railway Company's Paddle .Steamers " Lady Margaret ' or " Lady Evelyn " will run daily between Barrow and Fleetwood for Blackpool. Full particulars as to Sailings, Fares, etc., may be obtained on application to the Superintendent of the Line, Barrow-in-Furness-; or from Messrs Thos. Cook & Sons Manchester, Blackpool and other Agencies. The Palette Album, illustrating the above Tours, in colours, can be ob- tained at the principal Railway Bookstalls, price 6d. Picture Postcards of the Lake District may be obtained at any station on the Furness Railway, and on the Company's Steamers ; also at F'urness Abbey Hotel and the principal Bookstalls. Reduced price, 12 cards for 6d. ALFRED ASLETT, Barrow-in-FiirneiS, Apiil, 1904. Secretary and General Manager. AUGUST, and SEPTEMBER. No. 10.- Round the Langdales and Dungeon Ghyll Tour, via Ambleside, Colwith Force, Gras- mere, anil Rydal. — Fare frotn 5/-. No. II.— Ullswater Tour, via Am- bleside, Kirkstone Pass, and Brothers Water, returning via the Vale of Troutbeck and Lowwood. — Fare from 5/6. No. 12. — Derwentwater (Kes wick) Tour, via Ambleside, Gra.s 'niere,and Thirlmere. — Fare from 6/- No. 13.— The Five Lakes Circular Tour, viz., Windermere, Rydal, Grasmere, Thirlmere, and Derwent water. — Fare from 11/6. No. 14.— Wastwater Tour, visi Sea scale and Gosfortb. — Fare from 4/6. No. 15.— The Six Lakes Circular Tour, viz., Windermere, Rydal Grasmere, Thirlmere, Derwent water, & Ullswater. — Fare from 12/- No. 16.— Duddon Valley Tour, via Broughton-in-Furness, Ulpha, and Sealhwaite. — Fare from 3/9. No. 17.— The Round of Coniston Lake (New Tour). - Fare from 3/9. No. is.— Ennerdale Lake and Calder Abbey Tour, via Seascale, Gosfortb, & Cold Fell.— Fare fr. 4/6. No 19.— Across the Ferry Tour, via Lake Side, Esthwaite Water, Hawkshead, and Storrs Hall. — Fare from 3/6. No. 20 — Cartmel Priory and Newby Bridge Tour, via Winder- mere(Lake Side), Backbarrow Falls, Holker Park, and Grange. — Fare from 3/-. Railway Routes GLASGOW & SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY. SCOTLAND AND ENGLAND. THE GLASGOW and SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY COMPANY gives a Direct Route between Scotland and England, con- necting at Carlisle with the Midland Railway, the principal Termini being St. Enoch, Glasgow, and St. Pancras, London ; and a Full and E.\peditiou.s Service i.s given between Glasgow, Paisley, Greenock, Ayr, Ardrossan, Kilmarnock, Dumfries, S:c., and Liverpool, Manchester, Bradford, Leeds, Sheffield, Bristol, Bath, Birmingham, London, &c. DINING CARS (First and Third Class) by the Morning and Afternoon Expresses, and SLEEPING CARS by the Night E.\presses, in each direction, between Gi.asoow (St. Enoch) and London (St. Pancras). New and Improved CORRIDOR CARRIAGES with LAVATORY Accommodation by the Morning, Afternoon, and Evening Expresses. Passengers between Scotland and England by this, the most Picturesque Route, pass through the heart of the Bums Country, and holders of Tourist Tickets to and from Glasgow, or North thereof, are allowed to travel via Ayr (Burns' Birthplace). Tickets are al.so valid for break of journey at Dumfries (Burns' Burial-place). CLYDE WATERING PLACES. Tne Glasgow and South-Western Line to Princes Pier Station, Greenock, is the most convenient for Visitors to the Watering Places on the Firth of Clyde and Western Highlands and the Islands of - Scotland, to and from which places regular connections are main- tained by the Company's magnificent Fleet of Steamers, as also by the "Columba," "Lord of the Isles," "Isle of Arran," "King Edward," " Queen Alexandra," &c. All Passengers' Luggage is removed from the Trains to the Steamers, and vice versA, free of charge, by a special staff of attendants provided by the Company. Passengers holding Through Tickets to or from England have the option of visiting Glasgow en route. ISLAND OF ARRAN, MILLPORT, & CAMPBELTOWN. The most direct and expeditious route to the far-famed Island Of Arran is by the Company's new swift Paddle Steamer " Glen Sannox, " via Ardrossan ; and to Millport, Campbeltown, &c., via Fairlie, where the Company's Trains run alongside the Steamers. AYRSHIRE COAST and THE LAND 0' BURNS. Passengers desirous of visiting the Ayrshire Coast Towns and places on the Company's Line, which are full of associations of the Poet Burns, and famous in history and romance, will find that the Company provide an excellent service of Express Trains from Glasgow and Paisley, com- posed of carriages of the most modern type, to Kilwinning, Stevenston, Saltcoats, Ardrossan, West Kilbride, Fairlie, Largs, Irvine, Troon, Prestvvick, and Ayr, all of which places can be reached within the hour. There is also a .service of Fast Trains to Maybole, Girvan, Pinmore, Pinwherry, Barrhill, New Luce, and Stranraer. From Stranraer Steamboat connections are formed to Ireland, via Lame, the open sea passage being only 80 minutes. FAMOUS GOLFING LINKS.— Golfers win find Links of the highest order at Bridge of Weir, Kilmalcolm, Johnstone, Stevenston, West Kilbride, Largs, Bogside, Gailes Barassie, Troon, Prsstwick, and Turnberry (Girvan). For de.scriptive notes on the various Links served by the Company's Trains, see the Guide to the Golfing Resorts, issued by the Company, free of charge. HOTELS. — The Company have HotelS at GlaSgOW (St. Enoch), Ayr, and Dumfries, under their own management. These Hotels will be found replete with all modern conveniences and comforts. Excellent cuisine and a moderate tariflf existing throughout. Glasgow, ic,o(. DAVID COOPER, Gkkf.ral Manager. Raihvay Routes LONDON & NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY. ROYAL MAIL ROUTE r.K ruEEN ENGLAND, IRELAND, AND SCOTLAND. THROUGH EXPRESS TRAINS are run at frequent internals between London, Blimiingham, Liverpool, Manchester, Preston, the English Lake District, North, South, and Central Wales, Carlisle, Scotland, and Ireland, with connections to and from the manufacturing districts of South Staffordshire, Chester, Holyhead, Bolton, Blackburn, Bradford, Halifax, Leeds, and the manufacturing districts of Yorkshire. Many of the Express Trains between London and the North call at Willesden Junction, and Special Train Services are ir. operation between Willesden and Victoria, Willevden and the Crystal Palace and Croydon, Willesden and Kensington (for Waterloo and the London and South Western Railway), Willesden and Southall, connecting with the Lines South of the Thames, and between Willesden, Broad Street, Kew, and Richmond. Sleeping Saloons are provided by the night trains between London and Liverpool, Manchester, Holyhead, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Stranraer, Perth, and Aberdeen. Breakfast. Luncheon, Tea, and Dining Cars between London and Holyhead, Manchester, Liverpool, Birmingham, and Wolverhampton. Corridor Trains with Refreshment and Dining Cars between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow. Hotel Accommodation. — London (Euston Hotel), Liverpool (North- western Hotel), HiK^iiNGHAM (Queen's Hotel), Preston (Park Hotel), Crewe (Crewe Armsl, Gr.Asiidw (Central Station Hotel), Prrth (Station Hotel), DuHi.iN (North-Western Hotel), Holyhead (Station Hotel), Gkeenoke, Hletchlev (North-Western Hotel). The Accommodation provided at these hotels is of the highest standard, and the charges will be found reasonable. Hot or Cold Luncheons in Baskets are provided at the principal stations, 3S., including Ijeer or wine, and 2S. 6d. without. Tea Baskets, containing a Pot of Tea, Kread and Butter, and Cake, can be obtained at Preston, Lancaster, Llandudno Junction, Crewe, Bir- mingham (New .Street), Coventry, Rugby, and Northampton, price is. each. Rugs and Pillows may lie ubtained by passengers travelling by the Night Trains. Charge 6d. each fir Rug or Pillow. Luggage collected, forwarded in advance, and delivered, at a charge of Is. per package. Tourists' arrangements, 1904.— Tourist Tickets are issued during the season from the Company's principal stations to Scotland, the English Lake District, Ireland, North, South, and Central Wales, Malvern, Buxton, Stratford-on-Avon, Scarborough, Harrogate, Southport, Blackpool, Morecambe, Isle of Man, Isle of Wight, Jersey, Guerasey, and many other places. Every information as to trains and fares can be obtained on application to Mr. Robert Turnbull, Superintendent of the Line, Euston Station, London, N.W. FREDERICK HARRISON, General Manager. Euston Station, 1904. 6=*' Railway Routes CALEDONIAN RAILWAY. TO UBS IN SCOTL A ND. '^0 meet the requirements of the Tourist traffic to Scotland, the Caledonian Railway VL- Company have arranged a system of Tours — over 150 in number — by Rail, Steamer, and Coach, comprehending almost every place of interest either for scenery or historical association in Scotland, includmg — ABERDEEN, ARBROATH, ARDROSSAN, AYR, BALLACHULISH, BALLOCH, BRECHIN. EDZELL CALLANDER. CRIEFF, COMRLE. DUMBARTON, DUMFRIES, DUNDEE. DUNKELD. EDINBURGH, FORFAR, GLASGOW, GOUROCK. GREENOCK, INVERNESS, INVEKARAY, LEADHILLS, MOFFAT, MONTROSE, NAIRN, OBAN, FORT-WILLIAM, PAISLEY, PEEBLES. PERTH, ROTHESAY. STIRLING, ST. FILLANS, STRATHPEFFER. The Trosachs, Loch Katrine, Locli Lomond, Loch Eck, Loch Earn, Loch Tay, Loch Awe, Caledonian Canal, Glcncoc, Jotia, Stafia, ^k\e, Balmoral, Braernar, Arran, Bute, The Firth of Clyde, The Falls of Clyde, &-c., &-c. The Caledonian Company also issjte Tourist Tickets to the Lake District of Eng^land, The Isle of Man. North Wales, H'cst of England. South Coast 0/ En^latid, Connemara, The Lakes of Killar}iey. Belfast, and the North 0/ Ireland, &'C. The Company's Trains from and to Edinburgh, .Glasgow, Carlisle, Liverpool. Man- chester, London (Euston), &c., connect on the Clyde with the Caledonian Steam Packet Company's Fleet of Steamers, Also with the Steamers "Columba, " *'Iona," "Lord of the Isles," "Claymore," "Clansman." " Hebridean," Turbine Steamers "King Edward" and "Queen Alexandra," " Davaar, " "Adder," &c., to and from Dunoon, Innellan, Rothesay, Largs, Millport, the Kyles of Bute. Arran, Campbeltown, Ardrishaig, Inveraray, Loch Goil, Loch Long, the West Highlands, Belfast, Isle of Man, &c., &c. By this Company's Line Passengers from London (Euston), Liverpool, and otlier places in England, Edinburgh (Princes Street). Glasgow (Central), &c., &c.. have the choice of "THREE ROUTES" to the Estuary of the Clyde and West Highlands, c&c, &c., viz. :— Via GOUROCK, Vid WEMYSS BAY, Vid ARDROSSAN. The Trains run direct on to the Piers and alongside Steamers. Reserved Compart- ments for Ladies travelling alone. Express Trains from Glasgow (Central Low Level) to Balloch in connection with Loch Lomond Steamers. An improved Train Service is run between Edinburgh (Princes St.) and Glasgow (Central) — the journey being performed by Express Trains in a little over the hour. An Express Service of Trains is also run from Edinburgh (Princes Street) and Glasgow (Buchanan Street) to Stirling, Bridge of Allan. Dunblane, Callander, Oban, Ballachulish, Fort- William, Crieff, Comrie, St. Fillans, Perth, Dundee, Forfar, Arbroath, Montrose, Brechin, Edzell, Alberdeen, Inverness, and the North, and vice 'versd. First and Third Class by all Trains. The Caledonian, in conjunction with the London and North-Western Railway, forms the West Coast (Royal Mail) Route between Scotland and England. ( Edinburgh (Prlncea Street) in 8 honrs. LONDON (Euston) and \ Glasgow (Central) in 8 hours. ( Aberdeen in HJ hours. Direct Trains run from and to Glasgow (Central). Edinburgh (Princes Street), ArdrOBsan, Kilmarnock, Gourock, Greenock, Paisley, Balloch. Dumbarton, Stranraer, Stirling, Oban, Perth. Dundee, Forfar, Arbroath, Brechin. Montrose, Aberdeen, Inverness, and other places in Scotland, to and from London (I'uston), Cambridge, Oxford, Leamington, Birmingham. Bristol, Bath, Cardiff, Exeter, Torquay, Plymouth, Liverpool, Manchester, Buxton, Chester, Preston, Penrith (for Lalce District), Leeds, Bradford, &c., SLEEPING CARRIAGES ATTACHED TO ALL NIGHT TRAINS TO SCOTLAND. AND ALL PARTS OF THE NORTH OF ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. First and Third Class Carriages of the most improved description, fitted with Lavatoiies, Ligh:ed by Gas, and heated by Steam in Winter, are attached to all the Express Trains. BREAKFAST, LUNCHEON and DINING CARS For 1st and 3rd Class Passengers, are attached to ceri.iin of the Kxpress Trains running between London and Leeds ; London and Bradft rd ; London, Notting ha m a nd t heffield ; London and Edinburgh iWaverley); London and Aberdeen. Time Tables (price one ptnny), Tourist and Week-end Programmes and lists of Fani) house and Country Lodgings to be let during the summer month?, may be obtained on application at Great Northern Stations, and Town Odices, or of the Chief Passenger Agent, King's Cross Station, N. OLIVER BURY, Ltmdon (King's Cross), May, 1904. General Manager. Railway Routes NORTH BRITISH RAILWAY. TTHE NORTH BRITISH RAILWAY SYSTEM is the most extensive in Scotland. VL It directly server, all the most important districts of the Country, and by arrange- ments with other Railway Companies, with whom it is in alliance, or over whose lines it possesses Running Foweis, provides convenient and expeditious Through Communica- tion with all parts of tlie llnited Kingdom. THE MOST DIRECT AND POPULAR ROUTE to the WEST HIGHLANDS, OBAN, PORTREE, STORNOWAY, &c., is by the West Highland Line, l>y which there is an ample and expeditious Service of Trains, having Through Carriages from London and Edinburgh during the summer, and from Gl.isgowall the year round, to I'ort- William, and vice verscf.and connecting at Oban, Fort-William. Banavie. and Mallaig, with Mr. David MacBrayne's Steamers to and from the Hebrides, Inverness, Caledonian Canal. Portree, Stornoway, &c. THE COMPANY possesses the SHORTEST ROUTE to and from the NORTH via the FORTH and TAY BRIDGES, and Through Expre-ss Trains are run daily between Edinbtirgh (Waverley and Haymarket S'atious) anil Dunfermline. Alloa, Stirling, and Perth, tirfthe Forth Bridge, and between Edinburgh CWaverley and Haymarket Stations), and Glasgow (Queen Street Stationi & Dundee, Arbroath, Montrose, Aberdeen, Ac, r.-rf the Forth & Tay Bridges. Through Carriages are aNo run between Edinburgh ,& Inverness, tirf the Forth Bridge. .EDINBURGH and GLASGOW. A Complete Service of Express Trains at frequent intervals is rim between Edinburgh (Waverley & Haymarket Stations) & Glasgow (Queen Street .Station), passengers having the choice of two routes, viz., t'lrf Linlithgow & Falkirk, or vi'ti Airdrie and Coatbridge. FAST STEAMERS SAIL ftom and to CRAIGENDORAN PIER in connection with the Company's trains, which run alongside the pier; thereby afford- ing convenient access to the various Watering Places on the Clyde, Greenock, the Gareloch, Loch Long, Holy Loch, the Kyles of Bute, the Islands of Bute and Arran, &c. These steamers also connect during the summer with the "Columba," " lona," "Lord of the Isles," and Arran steamers. EXPRESS SERVICE WITH ENGLAND. THE East Coast Roval Mail RotriH is thh shortest and most topular. Express Trains are run daily from Aberdeen, Montrose, Arbroath, Dundee (Tay Bridge St3t\un),viiunts, see the Cotnpany's Tifne Tables and Tourist Prograuune^ copies of which fnay be obtained frotn any of the Stationinasters. or from Mr. D. DEUCHARS. Superinfende>it of the Line, hdinhnr^h. HDINBUKGH. 1904. W. F. JACKSON, GENERAL MANAGER. Raikvav Routes THE HIGHLAND RAILWAY. Holiday Resorts in the Highlands of Scotland:— Dunkeld, Pitlochry, Aberfeldy, Blair A tholl, Kingussie, Carr Bridge, Boat of Garten, Grantown, Forres, Elgin, Nairn, Inverness (the Capital of the Highlands), Beauly, Fortrose, Dingwall, Strathpeffer, Garve, Achnasheen (for Loch Maree), Kyle of Lochalsh (for Portree, Stornoway, &c.). Tain, Lairg, Dornoch. Golspie, Helmsdale, Wick, Thurso, and Lybster. For Fishing, Golfing, Shooting, Excursions by Steamer or Coach, or for quiet resting, the Highlands are unsur- passed. The Scenery is delightful in variety ; the Climate bracing and wholesome. All the above Stations are on the Highland Railway, and Passengers should obtain Tickets by the Highland Route, via DUNKELD. During the Tourist Season Tickets are issued at all the principal Stations in England and Scotland. The Railway from SPEAN BRIDGE to INVERGARRY and FORT AUGUSTUS was opened in July last year, and provides new ground for Visitors in a most interesting and romantic part of the Highlands. For Fares, Times of Trains, Tiirough Carriages, &c., see the Company's Time Tables, sent to any address on application. STATION HOTEL, INVERNESS Belonging to the Company, is a First-class Family and Commercial Hotel. It adjoins the Station and occupies the most central position in the Town. Grill Room in connection. The Company's Station Hotel at KYLE Of LOCHALSH is convenient for Tourists en route to tlie ISLE Of SKYE, STORNOWAY, and the WESTERN ISLANDS. 'Ihe Company s NEW STATION HOTEL at DORNOCH, SUTHER- LANDSHIRE (DORNOCH is the paradise of the Golfer), is expected to Le ready for Visitors in June. Pa.ssengers can secure Apartments by Telegraph, FREE Of CHARGE, by applying to any of the Station Officials on the Line, and givin^ their Name and Address in writing. Inverness, 19^4. T. A. WILSON, Grneral Manager. Railway Routes GREAT E ASTERN RAILWAY SEASIDE, and BROADS and RIVERS of NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK. CHEAP TICKETS ARE ISSUED AS UNDER BY ALL TRAINS. LIVERPOOL STREET FHJDAY OK SATURDAY TILL FORTNIGHTLY. Available foi- 1 TOURIST. FENCHURCHSTREET to TUESDAY. A ls Days, B D I St CL ardCl. istCl. 3rd CL ist Cl. 3rd Cl. SoutheDd-on-Sea ...) (via ShenfieW) 6/- 3/6 11- 4/4 8/8 4/i *Burnliam-on-Cr'cli ) 1 LIVERPOOL ST. to 1 Clacton-on-Sea ... Frinton-on-Sea ... WaltononNaze .. | Dovercourt Harwich ' 13/6 7/6 17/6 10/- 20/- 12/- 1 Felixstowe 13/6 8/- 17/6 10/- 23/4 14/3 Aldeburgh 16/- 10/- 25/- 13/- 27/9 16/9 Southwold 22/- 11/- 27/6 15/- 31/3 18/5 LIVERPOOL STREET or ST. PANCRAS to 1 Lowestoft (Central) ... 22/- 11/- 27/6 15/- 33/ 19/9 Gorleston-on-Sea 22- 11/- 27/6 15/- 34/- 20/- Yarmouth 22/- 11/- 27/6 15/- S4- 20/- Cromer 22/- 11/- 27/6 15/- 34/- 20/- Wroxham 22/- 11/- 1 27/6 15/- 34/- 20/- Mundesley on-Sea .. 22/- 11/- 1 27/6 15/- 34/- 20/- Hunstanton 16/- 10/- : 25/- 13/- 30/6 18/- Norwich i 31/10 18/11 1 A. Friday to Tuesday Tickets are issued every Friday and Saturday, and are available for return by any of the advertised trains on the day of issue or on any day up to and including the Tuesday following the date of issue. B. Fortnightly Tickets .^re issued daily, and are available for return by any of tlie advertised trains on any day within fifteen days, including the days of issue and return. C. Tourist Tickets are issued daily throughout the year by any train, and are available for the return journey by any train on any day within six calendar months from the date of issue. Those issued during May and June will be available up to 31st December, 1904. ♦Fortnightly and Tourist Tickets to Burnham-on-Crouch are issued only from May to October inclusive. Friday to Tuesday, Fortnightly, and Tourist Tickets to tlie abctye seaside stations are also issued at Great Eastern stations within twelve miles of London, and at the stations on the East London Line, at tlie same fares as from Liverpool Street. For full particulars see the Company's Time Hook ami Handbills. RESIDENTIAL SEASON TICKETS at cheap rates are issued between Liverpool Street and Southend, Clacton, Walton-01-Naze, Dovercourt, Harwich and Felixstowe, for periods of One Week, Two Weeks, One Month, Three Montlis, Six Months, and Twelve Months. Full particulars may be obtained of tlie Secretary, Liverpool Street Station, The New Coast Railway bi-tween Lowestoft and Yarmouth is now open for traffic. The Stations are Lowestoft North, Corton, Hopton, Gorleston-on-Sea, and Gorleston North, RW Pamphlets on the Holiday Resorts in the Eastern Counties and the Broads District of Norfolk and Suffolk, and List of Farmhouse and Country Lodgings in the Eastern Counties, can be obtained gratis and post free on application to the Superintendent of the Line, Liverpool Street Station. J. F. S. GOODAY, General Manager. I.iVEurooi. Street Station, London, E.C, May, 1904. kailway lioutcs II* GREAT W ESTERN RAILWAY Best Route to Bath, Bristol, Exeter, Plymouth, North and South Devon, Cornwall, jBirmingham, Midland Counties, North and South Wales, Ireland, &c. EXPRESS TRAINS beFweea LONDON (Paddington Station) .\NT Urs. 2 33 3J 4i 5 AND PENZANCE .. IN OXFORD WORCESTER .. ., LEAMINGTON . „ BIRMINGHAM . . WOLVERHAMPTN . Mrs. 8 li ^' 2i 2; AND Hrs. BRISTOL ..IN WEYMOUTH . . „ EXETER TORQUAY PLYMOUTH . .. SHREWSBURY IN CHESTER . ., BIRKENHEAD ,. CARDITF .. ,. SWANSEA . ,. 3( 4J 51 3 41 All Trains ar« First, SecoD' , and Third Class. Corridor Carriages, with Reserved Compailments for Ladies, Smoking Saloons and Lavatory Compartments of each class, are run on many of the E.xpress Trains. Road and Rail Motor Car Services in many parts of the Country. NEW DIRECT ROUTE to DOVER and the CONTINENT via READING. Express Services bttiveen Liverpool. Dirkenhead. Chester, Birmintjhaii), Leaniinij- ton, Mshetn, Worc-ster. Oxtord, Plymouth. Exeter, Bristol, C.TrditT, Hereioril, Chelten- li.iTM, Gl.iuci'stcr, etc.. ami Dover, Hastings, Canterbury, Ranisjjate, Margate, Folkestone, I'aris. Brussels. Colojjne. Bale, etc. Throogb Carriages between Birkenhead and Dover, avoiding London. Channel Islands, via Weymonth or Southampton. The Steanibo.u Seruce between Weymouth and the Channel Islands and Southampton and the Channel Islands is carried on jointly by the Great Western and London and South Western Raihvay Companies. For lull particulars see Time-book. IRELAND^^r/^^EWlwriLFORD. Fast and Comfortable New Steamers. Open Sea Journey Five Hours. EXPRESS SERVICES TO WATERFORD, CORK, KILLARNEY, and the beautiful scenery in the SOUTH AND WEST OF IRELAND. E.xpre.ss Trains between Waterford and Dublin in connection with the Great Western Steamers. Tkrongh Express Trains by the Shortest and Best Route between West of England (v/.j .Severn Tnnneli. .Swansea, Car>' . SAFE BOATING. YACHTING. GOLFING. FISHING (FRESH AND SALT WATER). Osborne yow Oiten to the Public every Tuesday & Friday. DURING THE SEASON Cheap railway excursions to all parts daily. Weekly Tickets, covering use of all trains and all railways in the island (e.xcept Ryde Pier) for seven days are issued at exceptionally low prices. Plcisant and cheap steamboat e.\cur,>iions almost daily, round the island and to Bournemouth, Weymouth, Swanage, Southampton, Southsea, and Portsmouth (the first naval yard in the world.) Good hotels, boarding and lodging houses, in all parts of the island at reasonable charges. The principal towns and places of interest are Ryde, Cowes, Sandown, Shanklin, Ventnor, Freshwater, Totland Bay, Alum Bay, Newport, Caris- brooke, Osborne, Bonchurch, The Landslip, The UnderclifT, Bembridge, St. Helen's, Brading. Visitors can reach the island by frequent e.\press trains from Waterloo, Victoria, London Bridge, Kensington, Clapham Junction, &c., either via Portsmouth and Ryde, Slokes Bay and Ryde, and Southampton and Cowes. Well-appointed steamers connect at Ryde and Cowes with trains. Kiee transfer of luggage between the boats and trains. Through tickets to all island stations, ist, 2nd, and 3rd class, from all stations on the South-Western and South Coast Railways. During the summer sea>on. May 1st t~> September 30th, Tourist Tickets, available for six months, are issued from Watrrloo, Victoria, London Bridge, Kensington, Clapham Junction, &c. Also Eight and Fifteen Day Tickets at a fare of 11/- (3rd class). Cheap Week-End Tickets are also issued all the year round, by all trains, on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, available for return by any train on any day (• xcept on Fridays and Saturdays) up to and including the following Tuesday, at the foUowins; fares— ist class return, 23/6; 2nd class return, 15/- ; 3rd class return, 12/- List of Apartments and accommodation at the various Island Watering Places, also Guide, on application to H. K. DAY, ^L^NAGF.R, I.W. Railway. CHAS. L. CONACHER, Manager, LW. Central Railway. 'June, 1904. 16" Railway Routes THE DISTRICT RAILWAY, \J EITHER BY ITS OWN LINE OR BY ITS CONNECTIONS, SERVES THE WHOLE OF THE PLACES ofAMUSEMENT, INTEREST, AND ATTRACTION, IN AND AROUND LONDON. It Is the most direct and quickest means of conveyance /v between ^ EAST EN ^WESTEND< AND IT CONNECTS WITH THE TERMINI OF ALL THE RAILWAYS RUNNING INTO LONDON. o Through Bookings are in operation between the DISTRICT LINE AND ALL STATIONS IN LONDON AND THE SUBURBS. Always ask for Tickets "VIA DISTRICT RAILWAY." Raihvay Routes: 17* LANCASHIRE & YORKSHIRE RAILWAY. DIRECT EXPRESS ROUTE BETWEEN TILE EAST AND WEST COASTS. THROUGH FAST TRAINS between Liverpool, Manchester, and Fiincipul Lancashire Towns, and HALIFAX, BRADFORD, LEEDS, HARROGATE, GCOLE, HULL, YORK, SCARBOROUGH, and NEW- CASTLii, i" dnect comuiuniciiion with rlvprcss Trains to and from all parts of the Noitli-£astern system. Express Service between LIVERPOOL and MANCHESTiiR ia torty miautes. AN EXCELLENT SERVICE OF TRAINS is in operation betivten the Principal Stations in Lancashire and Votkshire, and BLACKPOOL, LYTHAM, SOUTflPORT, and SCOTLAND. Fast Trains run rvVi Preston, and t;'i( Hellifield, to all parts of Scotland. Through Lavatory Carriages run between Liverpool (Exchange), Manchester (Victoiia) and Harwich, in connection with the Continental Boats, ■•■■id Harwich and the Hook of aolland, Rotterdam, and Antwerp. Durin? the Summer months throusjh express trains are run between Mancae3ter (S'ictoria) and S-eringhiin and Cromer (Beach). ROYAL MAIL ROUTE to THE NORTH of IRE- LAND, i/m Fleetwood, Belfast, & Londonderry. The L. & V. and L. S: N. \V. Company's Ro>a! Mail Twiji-screw Steamers sail daily (Sundays excepted), between Fieeiwood and Belfast, open sea passage 5 'r hours, also between Fleetwood and Londondeiry twice weekly. The steamers are lighted with Electricity, and there are Dining Saloons, Ladies' Cabins, and .State Rooms, replete with every modern comfort. Express Trains are run in connection with the Boats between Manchester, Liverpool, Bolton, Bradford, Leeds, Sheffield, Harrogate, York, New- castle, Birmingham, London, and other importatit Places, and Fleetwood. The Boat Train from Fleetwood to Manchester, Halifax, Bradford, and Leeds, in connection with the Steamers from Belfast and Londonderry, is a Vestibule Breakfast Car Train. The Fleetwood route will be found the most expeditious and convenient for the North of Ireland. Passengers and their luggage proceed direct from the ira 11 to the steamer by a covered way. No expei.sc is incurred in the transftr of luggage to s^nd from the boats. LIVERPOOL AND DROGHEDA SERVICE. The L. i^ \'. Co.'s steamers sail between Liverpool (Collingwood Dock) and Drogheda. For particulars of Sailing see Sailing Bills and Cards, IRELAND AND ENGLAND, via DUBLIN AND LIVERPOOL. Steamer's leave North Wall daily, .Monday to Friday inclusive, at 12 noon and 8.0 p.m., and on Saturdays at 2.0 p.m. and 8.0. p.m., in connection at Li\crp )ol with Express Service of Trains to all parts. ISLE OF MAN, uia FLEETWOOD, & via LIVERPOOL. During the Season the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company's Sieaniers, sail daily (Sundays excepted), between Fleetwood and Douglas, Isle of Man, at convenient hours, and daily (Sundajs excepted), all the year be- tween Liverpool and Douglas. There is also a service on certain days between Fleetwood and Ramsey, viii Douglas, and direct sailit;g on certani days between Liverpool and Ramsey. Passengers and their luggage are convened Frt.e of charge between Li\erpool (Exchange Statio;.) and the Drogheda. Dublin and Isle of Man Steamers. Every Friday & Saturday short and long date Tickets are issued by any train from principal stations to Blackpool, Fleetwood, Ljtham, St. Anne's, Sontbport, Liverpool, Harrogate, Scarborough, &c. For full partii:nlars apply to Mr. Chas. J. Nicholson, Passenger Superintendent, Victoria Siati.^n, Manchester. Manchesth; JdHN .\. F. .ASPIN.MX, Ge.nekal Manager. ' ' ■ ■ -■-.> • Quids Series, l%'4-5,\ Railway Routes FESTINIOG RAILWAY, NORTH WALES. THIS celebrated Miniature Line, the original "TOY RAILWAY," and the world-renowned pioneer of narrow gauge railways, is situated in the centre of the finest scenery in the Principality. In its continuous ascent from Portmadoc to the Festiniog slate quarries it traverses, by means of sharp curves and gradients, a rugged but most picturesque tract of country, and in its windings along the hill sides at a great height above the valley it con- tinually discloses fresh views of river, sea, and mountain, amongst which is comprised the grand panorama of the Snowdon range. It is yearly visited by thousands of tourists, who are charmed with the novelty of the line and its surroundings. It is readily accessible from all parts of the country, through Bettws-y-Coed, via the London and North- Western Railway; or through Bala, via the Great Western Railway, changing in each case at Blaenau Festiniog ; or through Barmouth or Afonwen, via the Cambrian Railways changing at Minffordd. It forms the most direct route between the seaside resorts on the north, and those on the south and west coasts of North Wales. CIRCULAR TOUR TICKETS are issued by the London and North- Western, Great Western, and Cambrian Railway Companies, available over the Line and in connec- tion with four-horse coaches running through the Snowdon district. J. S. HUGHES, General Manager. Portmadoc, 1904. Ra/hvav Honfes CAMBRIAN RAILWAYS. TOURS IN WALES. BATHING, BOATING. FISHING (Sea, River, and Lake), GOLFING, COACHING, MOUNTAINEERING. TOIiniOT Tini/CTO av.iilaliic for two iiioiitlis, issued tliroiiLrhout the year, I UUKIo I I lulxt I O Iroi" Loiultm and all priiuipal stations in Enijland and Scotland to Aberystwyth, Borth, Llanbedr & Pcnsarn, Machynlleth, Towyn, Aberdovey, Dolgelley, Barmouth, Harlech, Portmadoc, Criccieth, Pwllheli, Llanidloes, Rhayader, Builth, Wells, and Brecon. CHEAP WEEK-END & TEN DAYS TICKETS i::.y "^^ ANU SATl'KDAV THKiJ LliHuL:'!; 1 H 1-: VHAK (lor exceptions, see the issuing Companies' Anuouiicemeius) from SHKEWSLlf KV. BIRMINGHAM, WOLVER- HAMPTON, STAl-FORI). BURTON. DERBY, LEEDS, LEICESTER, HLiDDEKSl-TELD. STOCKPORT, OLDHAM, MANCHESTER, PRESTON, BLACKBURN, ROCHDALE, BKADl-ORD, WAKEFIELD, HALIFAX, BOLTON, WIGAN, WARRINGTON, CREWE, LnERPOOL, BIRKENHEAD, STOKE, and other Stations to the CAMBRIAN WATERING PLACES. fg- EVERY WEDNESDAY during July. August, and September CHEAP EKLY OR FORTNIGHTLY TICKETS will be issued FROM LONDON to the Cambrian Coast and certain Inland Stations, available to return on the following Monday, Wednesday, or Monday week and Wednesday fortnight. Tickets at the same fares are also issueil to London on every Wednesday, during tlie same period, to return on the tollowing Wetlnestlay or Wednesday week. ABOUT THIRTY RAIL AND COACH EXCURSIONS DAILY are run from the Cambrian Railways, during the Summer Months, through the finest scenery in the Principality. CYCLING AND WALKING TOURS at cheap fares throughout the Mountain, River, and Lake District of North and Mid-Wales. For farlkiitars see Rail and Coach Fxciirsioits Programme, issued gratis (July). EXPRESS TRAINS. WITH THROUGH CARRIAGES, (LONDON to ABERYSTWYTH, 6^ hours; BARMOUTH, 7 hours). arc run daily during the Season in connection with Fast Trains on the London and North \Veslern and other Railways, between London. Liverpool. Manchester. Bimiingtiam, Stafford, Shrewsbury, llercford, Merthyr, Cardift", Newport (Mon.). &c., and Aberystwyth. Barmouth, &c. SEE Till-: ( A.MBRIAN RAILWAYS' NliW AND BEAUTIFUL ALBUM, "CARDIGAN BAY Illustrated." GEMS OF PICTURESQUE SCENERY IN WILD WALES. rRICK Gd. At the principal Railway Bookstalls, the Company's Stations, and the undermentioned Offices. ,S:c. PICTURESQUE WALES (Illustrated). The OlVicial Guide Hook to the C.imhrian Railways, edited by MR. GODFREY TURNIiR, Price 6d.. i.an be obtained at the Bookstalls, and at the Company's Offices or Stations, also of Messis. A\'. [. Adams & Sons, 59. Fleet Street, London, E.C. FARM HOUSE AND COUNTRY LODGINGS.-Attention is drawn to the Illustrated Pamphlet issued by tlur Ctnipany. "LIST OF LODGINGS." Price Id. at the principal Railway Bookstalls and Comp.iny's St.itions. Time Tables. Tourist Progrannnes. (Juide Books, and full particulars of Trains. Fares, &c., may be obtained from .Mk. W. H. GOUi.H, Traffic Superintendent, Oswestry, at any of the Company's Stations, .and at the undermentioned Cambrian Offices : 108, Victoria Road. New Brii;hton. LIVERPOOL : The Exchange, CARDIFF. BtRHINGHAM-ii;. Crpora:! 11 Street; BRADFORD— Messrs. Dean & Dawson, ^q, M.irk.t Street ; SHEFFIELD -.Messrs. 1 >,-.ui .V l)aw,on. 7, Havmarket ; LEED8-Mr. L. H. Sjkes, 46. H.,ar Lane. ULDHAM .Mr. L. K. Sianter, u->,'i:nion Street. Gtneral Offices, C. S. DENNISS, Oswestry, 1904. Secretary and uencral Manager. Railway Routes Great Southern & Western Railway (IRELAND). THE DIRECT ROUTE TO THE FAR-FAMED Lakes of Killarney Glengarriff, | Cork, Parknasilla, I Lahinch, (An Ideal Tourist Resort) I (Famous Golf Links) Kilkee, 1 Blarney, (Ttie Brighton of Ireland) I (Celebrated Hydro. & Castle) Queenstown, &c., &c. LUXORICUS DINING & DRAWING-ROOM CORRIDOR CARRIAGES Over One Hundred Miles of River, Ocean, and Mount;iin Scenery, by Rail and Coach. SPLENDIDLY EQUIPPED HOTELS (under the managemeot of the Company) situated at KILLARNEY, KEN MARE, PABK- NASILLA, WATERVILLE, and CARAGH LAKE. Combined Rail and Hotel Tickets issued in connection with these Hotels. Visitors to KILLARNEY are recommended to obtain their Tickets via GRAND ATLANTIC COAST ROUTE, as this embraces PARKNASILLA, an ideal TOURIST RESORT. FAST EXPRESS CORRIDOR TRAINS RUN "DURING TOURIST SEASON. Tourists are recommended to provide themselves with the Company's beautifully Illustrated and Revised Guide, "THE SUNNYSIDE OF IRELAND," post free for twelve penny stamps. All information respecting Hotels, Fares, Travel, &c., can be obtained from : — SUPERINTENDENT OF THE LINE, KlDgsb?idge Station, Dublin ; or Messrs. J. Wallis & Sons, 33, Bachelor's Walk, Dublin ; Messrs. C. W. Bullock & Co., 22, Lime Strtet, Liverpool ; Geo. K. Turnham, 2, Charing Cross, London, W. ; or any of Messrs. Thos Cook & Son's Offices. C. H, DENT, General Manager. Railivav Routes VISIT KILKEE, SPANISH POINT, LAHINGH, LiSDOONVARNA AND THE DnriYalled Cliff and Coast Scenery NXTest C3Li7^F^E. THE DIRECT ROUTE TO THESE Famous Health and Pleasure Resorts IS BV THE WEST & SOUTH CLARE RAILWAYS From ENNIS to ENNISTYMON (for Lisdoonvarna), LAHINCH (for the Golf Greens and the Cliffs of Moher), MILLTOWN-MALBAY (for Spanish Point), and KiLaHEE. THROUGH TOUKIST TICKETS are issued at the principal Railway Stations in Ireland and England ; also at the Offices of Thos. Cook & Son, and Dean & Dawson ; and at the Irish Railway Companies' Tourist Office, 2, Charing Cross, London, S.W. For information as to Fares, Routes, Hotels, Golfing, Fishing, &c., apply to — PATRICK SULLIVAN, Manager. Wat Clare Railway, Ennis, 1904. Railway Routes GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY (IRELAND). THE ROYAL MAIL ROUTE Between ENGLAND and BELFAST and the NORTH OF IRELAND, via KINGSTOWN, and EXPRESS SERVICES Via HOLYHEAD & DUBLIN (NORTH WALL) & via GREENORE. Fastest & Most Direct Service Between Irela-nd & Scotland Via :BJELFAST, and ROYAL MAIL ROUTE via BELFAST & ARDROSSAN. BREAKFAST & DINING CARS are run as follows— BREAKFAST CAR. —Kingstown Pier to Belfast per 5.37 a.m. Limited Mail Train, in connection with the Mail Packet from Holyhead. Bel- fast to Dublin per 7.^io a.m. Express Train. DINING SALOON.— Dublin to Belfast per 5.50 p.m. E.xpress Train. Belfast to Dublin and Kingstown Pier per 5.0 p.m. Limited Mail Train, in connection with the Mail Packet to Holyhead. The Dining Cars to and from Kingstown Pier are run alongside the Mail Packet, thus saving all transferring of passengers and luggage at Dublin (Amiens Street). HOTELS. First-class Hotels have been provided at WARRENPOINT, ROS- TREVOR, and BUNDOBAN, and are owned and mannged by the Company. Combined Rail and Hotel Tickets are issued from Dublin, Belfast, and all the principal Stations in connection therewith. The principal SEASIDE & HEALTH RESORTS in the NORTH OF IRELAND are situated on the Great Northern (Ireland) Company's System ; amongst them are : — BUNDORAN (on the Atlantic Coast) is pronounced by eminent Medical authorities to be the most invigorating Seaside Resort in the United Kingdom, A short distance is Lough Melvin and the famous Lough Erne. LOUGH ERNE (the Irish Lakes), which district ofiers splendid sport for rod and gun. ROSTREVOR.— Balmy and restorative climate. WARRENPOINT (on Carlingford Lough). This Company's Line is also the route for Portsalon (Golf Resort), Rosapenna, Carrick, Glencolumkille, Klllybegs, Gweedore, and the whole County and Coast of Donegal The Company have published a, complete Gtiidl to the North of Ireland, entitled "Northern Ireland," price Is. Copies can be obtained at any of the Company's Stations or Agencies. To obtain the Company's Time-Tables, Illustrated Guides and Pro- grammes, and full information as to Fares, Routes, Excursion Arrange- ments, &c., please apply to the Superintendent of the Line, Amiens Street Terminus, Dublin ; or at the Company's Office, at No. 2, Charing Cross, London, or 12, Imperial Chambers, T!)ale Street, Liverpool. HENRY PLEWS, General Manager. steamer Routes 2},-'' GRAND HOLIDAY SEA TRIPS (Magnificent Coast Scenery) BETWEKN LONDON & DUBLIN AND THE SOUTH OF ENGLAND. The best route for Cornwall, Devon, Wilts, Sussex, Kent, Essex, Hants, and Surrey, and for the Scilly Islands, the Isle of Wight, the Channel Islands, and France. THE LARGE FIRST-CLASS STEAMERS OF THE British & Irish Steam Packet Company, Ltd., Leave LondOn and Dublin twice a week, calling both ways at Portsmouth, Southampton, Plymouth and Falmouth. ^flilinri HflUQ ' ^''""^ Lnmlon — Sttndnys and Wednesdays, OdlllUg i/ajfo , i^ro)/i Uiiblin—n'ednesdai/s and Saturdaya, FLEET :— " Lady Roberts," 1,462 tons I " Lady Wolseley," 1,424 tons " Lady Hudson-Kinahaii," 1,372 ., | '' Lady Martin," i,355 n " Lady Olive,' 1,096 tons These vessels have superior accommodation for First and Second Cabin and Steerage Passengers, are fitted with Electric Light, have Deck Stale Rooms, Smoke Rooms, &c., and carry Stewards and Stewardesses. Circular Tours from LONDON to Killarney, Cork and South of Ireland, Isle of Man, Glasgow, &c., from SOUTH OF ENGLAND Ports to Connemara and West of Ireland (June to Sept.) and from DUBLIN to Channel Islands and France v!y Messrs. TUOS. COOK ifc SO\. Chief Offices :— 3, North Wall, Dublin. A. W. Egan, Sixfv/aiy. Telegraphic Address :-" .VWE, DUBLIN.' steamer I^outes WORLD TRAVEL. Organized by HENRY S. LUNN, M.D., F.R.G.S., W. HOLDSWORTH LUNN & CONNOP F. S. PEROWNE. /NTaTTTepJC on the Magnificent Ocean Yacht "ARGONAUT." ^^^^^^ *-^'-^'^ Tonnage, 3274 ; H. P., 4000. Electric Light. First- Cla'JS Cuisine. Autumn, Winter, and Spring Cruises to the Mediterranean, including the Riviera, Naples, Sicily, Algiers, Malta, Greece, Constantinople, the Crimea, Batoum, Trebizond, Smyrna, Palestine, Egypt, etc. Autumn Cruise to the Baltic, including the Nortliern Capitals of Europe, St. Petersburg, Stockholui, and Copenliai;en. £10 10s. Cruises to the Norwegian Fjords. £10 10s., £11 11a., £13 133.. and £14 14s. Tours to Rome. £5 Ss^Tours to Geneva and to Lucerne. Winter Skating Parties to Adelbotlen and to Grindehvald. Fii'l pan-icuLiys fyom the Secretary, 5, Endslcigh Ga-dens, Euston, London, N.W. Norway, Denmark, and Germany. The First Class Passenger Steamers of The Leith, Hull, and Hamburg Steam Packet Company, Ltd., sail as under-noted (unless prevented by the weather or unforeseen circumstances) : — From Leith to Christiansand, every Thursday, for Bergen, the Hard- anger, Saetersdal, and Christiania. Returning every Friday. From Leith to Copenhagen, every Thursday, for Gothenburg, the Gota Canal, and Stockholm. Returning every Thursday. From Leith to Hamburg, every Wednesday and Saturday, for Berlin, Dresden, Vienna, iMunich, the Harz Mountains, the Rhine, and Switzer- land. Returning every Monday and Friday. Cabin Fares to or from Leith (including provisions) : — Copenhagen and Christians \nd, single, £3 3s. Od., return, £5 5s. Od. Hamburg, single, £2 lOs. Od., return, £4 4s. Od. The^e Tickets issued an board fyom one hour before the advertised sailing hour. Through Fares (including Provisions in Company's Steamers): — To Christiania, £4 Os. Od. To Bergen, £4 7s. 6d. To Berlin, £3 lOs. Od. CIRCULAR TOURS. A Handbook may be had on application, with maps and details of these and of the most interesting Tours among THE FJELDS AND FJORDS OF NORWAY. Fares for the Round :— LEITH and BACK. Tour I.— Hamburg, Kj.'endul Road, Rail, and Koutf Ma^s, by fost 2d. G S. N. CO . Ltd., 55. GREAT TOWER kTREET, LONCOK. tHE FOLLOWING IS WARD, LOCK & CO.'S "Ibotcl, Ib^bropathic fiEetabli^bmcnt, Boarbing Ibousc 2)ircctor^» INDEX. lAGE PAGE Aberdeen 2 Llandudno '. 29> 30 Aberystwyth 2 Llanfairfechan 29 Ambkside ... l5 Llangammarch Wells ... 29 Harnslaple 2 Llangollen • 29 r..irmouth ... 2, 3 Loch Awe 29 Barton-on-Sea ... 43 London ... ... ... 14, 27, 28 Bath 3 Lowestoft . 28 Beaumaris 4 Ludlow 33 Bettws-y-Coecl ... 4 Lyme Regis • 33 BexhiU 3 Lynniouth • 31 Bideford 4 Lynton • 32 Bishop's Teignton 43 Manchester ■ 33 Blair Atholl 10 Matlock 33 Boscastle ■•• 43 Mullion Cove 33 Bowness ... 15 Newby Bridge 16 Bridlington ■•• 3. 4 Newquay 34 Bundoran 9 OUerton 13 Bu.xton 4, S> 6, 7, 8 Oxford 34 Cambridge 10 Parknasilla 24 Caragh Lake ... 24 Penzance... • 35 Church Strelton II Plymouth • 35 Clevedon 1 1 Pwllheli 35 Colwyn Bay 11 Rhyl 3Si 36 Cromer 12, ij Richmond (Yorks) • 36 Cruden Bay 12 Rostrevor 9 Douglas 20, 21 Salcombe... • 36 Dublin .. 13 Saltburn ... • 36 Dukerits, The ... 13 Sark . 8 Eastbourne 13 Sandown 21 Edinburgh ■ 14. 15. 43 Scarborough 36. 37 Edwinstowe 13 Shanklin 21, 22 Exeter 17 Shrewsbury 37 Falmouth 17 Sidniouth • 38 Glasgow ; 14 Southport • 39 Guernsey... 17 Southsea • 37 Harrogate 17, 18 Strathpeffer 38, 39 Hayling lil.ind... ... 18 Swanage • 37 Illracombe ... iS, 19, 20, 25 Symonds V.it 37 Instow 21 Teignniouih • 41 Isle of Man 20, 21 Torcuiay ... 40, 41 U\e of Wight ... 21, 22 Ventnor ... 21, 22 Jersey ... 23 Warrenpoint 9 Kenmare 24 Warwick 41 Keswick ... 16 Watergate Bay... .. 42 Lee Bay 25 Waterville 24 Liverpool... 25, 26 Welshpool 41 Lizard, The ... 25 Whitby 41, 42 Llanberis 30 Windermere '5 Llandrindod Wells ... 29 Yarmouth • 42 Guide ScfUi, 1904-0} 2 A berdeen — A berystwyth — Barnstaj>le — Barmouth .X5X ABERDEEN, ksk. The PALACE HOTEL OWNED BY THE GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY COMPANY. EVERY accommodation for comfort. Electrically lighted. Mechanically ventilated. Hydraulic Lifts. Excellent Cuisine, Sloderate Charges. Personally patronised by their Majesties The King and Queen, The Prince and Princess of Wales, The late Empress Frederick of Germany, The Duke and Duchess of Connaught, Princess Christian and Princess Victoria, Princess Henry of Battenberg, Prince and Princess Charles of Denmark, Prince Adolphus of Teck, H.I.H. The Empress Eugenie, H.R.H. The King of Portugal, The Prince and Princess Dolgorouki, Grand Duke and Grand Duchess Serge, Grand Duke Paul of Russia, and many distinguished visitors. Covered way from Station Platform Luggage removed to and from the Hotel free of Charge. Addres.s : MANAGER, Palace Hotel, Aberdeen. See Croden Bay Hotel, page 12. Aberystwyft-The Waterloo -"l^^tsubSe^nf^'lJia^g^l^fic^t situation, facing Sea. Again Enlarged. Spacious Public Rooms. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Apply Manageress. Aberystwyih-Queen's Hotel, 'Thrfat'lir'^s: cZv^u.^: says : — " A fortnight at Aberystwyth is equal to a month at most Watering Places." For Tariffs, &c.. apply— W. H. PALMER. BARNSTAPLE. IMPERIAL HOTEL. -TTHIS FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND RESIDENTIAL HOTEL w has, owing to increased patronage, again been considerably enlarged, and is now replete with every comfort. Spacious and lofty Dining, Draw- ing, Reading, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms. Lounge and Dark Room. Choice Wines and Spirits. Excellent Cuisine. Highly recommended. Moderate Tariff. C. A. YOUING, Proprietor. Barmouth-Cors-y-gedol & Marine Hotelsrslulated^'FaS the Sea, with south-west aspect. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Charges. For Terms, apply to Manager. Barmouth-Riclimond Private Hotel £eS.^ic£f tSa^^N^"^; Pavilion. Within easy reach of the Station. Sanitation perfect. Moderate Terms. Apply Mrs. BARROW EVANS, Proprietress. fiarmouth —Bath — Bexhill— Bridlington 3 Barmouth-Hendre Hall En Pension.- ^^G^ilni'^'^Malnificem Xiews of Bay & Cader Range. Close to Golf Links. Every Com- fort. Tariff on application. Nat. Tel, jo. Mhs. WILLIAMS. YORK HOUSE HOTEL /«>LD-ESTAr.l i>i!r.I),-ni,l lli.;li-rla-, lainily Hotel. 1 '..ti onised by Her w Gracious Alajc-,t> the laie ijuccu \'ii.ioria. Klegani .Suites of Rooms ; Handsome public rooms ; Electric Light ; Hydraulic Lift. Beautifully furnished and fitted throughout. Moderate Tariff. Apply Manageress. Also Queen's Hotel. Penzance, Bull Hotel, Cambridge, &c. EDMUND .SAUNDERS, Proprietor. Bexhill-on-Sea-St. George's Private Hotel. 7 ^AT:;°L„rf Patronised by some of the most distinguished visitors to Bexbill. Finest position. Excellent Cuisine. C. SEIKEL, Proprietor. Rovhill -Tho Uurlrn ^larine Mansions. Facing Sea. Close to Golf DCAIllll lUC n)UlU, Linl^s Lounge, Billiard Room, & Lifts. Electric, .Sea Water, & other Medicated Baths. Open to Non-residents. Teleijrams, " Electro." Tel. No. 43. Terms from .Secretary. Bexhill-on-Sea— " Sunny side " """Z^. "^eo^Ho'Ilfcom: fort. E.\cellent Cuisine. Moderate I ernis. Mrs. K. E. ROLLS, Proprietress. Bexhill-on-Sea- Winnold House ^^i^,,, De la Warr Parade. Facing Sea and Kursaal. Separate Tables. Billiards. Mrs. OWEN EVANS, Proprietress. Bridlington, Yorks Imperial Private Hotel. "'"TelTon.^" Facing Sea. Magnificent Views of Flaniborough Head. South Aspect. Table d'HSte (separate tables). National Telephone No. 0156. Mrs. SAM MORTIMER, Proprietress. 4 Bridlington — Beaumaris— Bideford — Buxton Bridlington-AiDgarth Boarding House -|;^nhcirfrsiindl& Parade. GoodCuisine, HonieCuniforts. Inclusive Terms from 31/6 to 45/6 Mav^L Tune. 28/- to 36/- Miss MORGAN. Beaumaris, Nortli lales-THE WILLIAMS-BULKELEY ADMQ UATPT ^First-class Family Hotel. Moderate Tariff. AllHilJ nUlIiL. JOHN KIDD, Manager. Bettws-y-Coed-Waterloo Hotel -^^BlJitds^^enr p::;:!";: Fishing. Excellent Stabling. Motor Garage. Inspection Pit. Hotel 'Bus meets trains. Mrs. McCULLOCK, Proprietress. 4( B I D E K O R £>. ^ CENTRAL FOR THE WHOLE OF NORTH DEVON. Including WESTWARD HO! CLOVELT.Y, HARTLAND, BUDE ILFRACOMBE, and LYNTON. Coaches in the Season to above Places. ROYAI. HOTEL Adjoining Railway Station. Magnificent Views. THE MOST MODERN HOTEL IN WEST OF ENGLAND. Replete with every convenience and comfort. COMPLETELY SHELTERED FROM EAST AND NORTH-EAST WINDS. Lofty, perfectly ventilated, and handsomely furnished rooms. FORMING CHARMING SUMMER AND WINTER RESORT. One of the mildest and healthiest in the kingdom. CONTINENTAL COURTYARD. Excellent hunting neighbourhood. Finest Stabling and Lock-up Coach- houses in Devonshire. Refreshment Room and luxurious Double Billiard Room, with direct entrance from Railway Platform. SAVE OMNIBUS AND PORTERAGE. Porters attend every Train. French and German spoken. SPECIALLY REDUCED WINTER TARIFF AND BOARDING TERMS. Bide/^ord—" C\\\ef\y remarkable Tor having' a first-rate holeX.'—Pinich, Oct. 5th, iSSo. Buxton, Derbyshire-Balmoral Private Hotel. ~S'dtT Establishment. The finest position in Buxton. Replete with every comfort. Four minutes' walk from Baths, Garden, Churches, Stations, &c. Table d'Hote, 6.45 p.m. Nat. Tel. 04S1. Telegrams — "Balmoral, liuxton." INIrs. LEE, Proprietress. Buxton-Searson's Private Hotels.-'''-'^Qg^i|^'4°''Facing South. 1 )etached and Comfortable. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Buxton-Pavilion Private Hotel.-i*rg"SL^'Se1.v°cto'rto Baths, Gardens, and New Pump Room. Ever)' Comfort. Moderate Terms. Nat. Tel. 0496. Mu. !><: Mrs. E. K. SHAW. Proprietors. Buxtnn BUXTON HYDROPATHIC, BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. H. LOMAS - - - Managing Director. Telegraphic Address— "Comfortable, Buxton." Nat. Telephone No. 5. Electnc Light. Elevators. Baths of every Description. CINDERELLA DANCE EACH SATURDAY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. First-class Boarding Establishment, Situated in tlie best part of Buxton, near the Pavili Gardens, commanding the finest views in the neighbourliood, Witliin easy tiistance of the Pump Room and Baths. ^ V^% Tele^ri7ms. ^o ^ e^ Con. tains a very fine Entrance Hall, Dining, g. Billiard, and Read- Handsomely furnished. Draw ing Rooms. Table d'Hute separate tables. Excellent Cuisine. Heated throughout the Winter months. Moderate Terms. E. & K. R. HAMBLV, PROPRIETRESSES. Towirs. Buxlon." Nat. Tel. iij. BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. Rigb-class IJoarUing establishment. Beautifully situated. Near ^^,.-^'''^^\ j Pavilion, Gardens, ^^.""^^"^^^^^J ^^ Baths, and Golf Links. S%: ^t ^^> Highly Recommended. Excellent Cuisine. Table d Hote, 6,30 p m. Tariff on application. MISS GKETTON, Proprietress. BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED IN ITS OWN GROUNDS, Eive minutes' walk from RaiUv.iy Stations, B.it and Public Gardens. Equally suitable for a Winter as well as a Summer Resort. Magnificent Views. je% ^o o^ v^9 ?t^ Sanitary arrange ments and Ventilation per (ect. Home Comforts. Ball Rooms. Public Dining, Drawing, Billiard and Smok ing Rooms, Excellent Cuisine, Terms Moderate Apply to Manageress. Nat. Tfl. Nt>. 3. Buxton BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE HIQHBST TOWN IN ENGLAND. On the Mountain Limestone, 1,000 feet above sea level. Centre of the picturesque Peak District. Pure Air. Charming Scenery. HOT MINERAL-WATER BATHS For GOUT, RHEUMATISM, SCIATICA, LUMBAGO, &c. Natural Temperature 82' Fahrenheit. FINEST PUBLIC GARDENS AT ANY HEALTH RESORT IN EUROPE, WITH PAVILION OPERA HOUSE, CONCERT HALL. TENNIS, BOWLS. &c.. &c. GOLF LINKS (18 HOLES.) For ILLUSTRATED GUIDES, with Tariffs of the leading Hotels, Hydropathics, Boarding and Lodging Houses, send postage (i^d.) to CHIEF CLERK, Town Hall, Buxton, Derbyshire. Buxton CRESCENT HOTEL BUXTON, Derbyshire. THIS First-class Hotel occupies the best situation, being near the Railway Station, and connected by Covered Colonnade with the Baths, Wells, Pavilion, Gardens, Opera House, iSic. Buxton Golf Links one mile from the Hotel. The new Pump Room is immediately opposite the Hotel. Table d'Hote at 7 p.m. in the Splendid Dining Room (one of the finest in the Kingdom.) PUBLIC DINING, DRAWING, BILLIARD, SMOKING, AND READING ROOJUS. ELECTRIC LIGHT IN ALL ROOMS. EXCELLENT CUISINE. CHOICE WINES and CIGARS. C. J. SMILTER. Proprietob Telegraphic Address .— "Crescent Hotel, Buxton." Nationax. Telephone, No. 5&. TERMS MODERATE & INCLUSIVE. Bifxfon — Channel Islands BTJ25:T0D^. GEORGE HOTEL. PUBLIC Dining and Drawing Rooms ; Reading and Smolcing Rooms ; Private Sitting Rooms, and Rooms en suite. Table d'Hote at 7.0 p.m. The Hotel is detached, pleasantly situated w ith southern aspect, is close to Baths, Gardens, Chuich, and Railway Stations, and has special suites of Rooms without staircases for Invalids. Corridors Heated throughout the Winter. Electric light in every room. Terms Moderate. Nat. Telephone No. 0448. W. F. MILL, Proprietor. BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE, PEHDENNIS BOARDING HOUSE ENLARGED and NEWLY BEAUTIFIED. Finest Situation, near Baths Excellent Table, Large Library, Perfect Sanitation, Heated throughout during winter. MODERATE TERMS. National Telephone 109. Mrs. MARTLAND NEWTON. Channel UAfol Rpl Ajyi —The only Hotel on the Island with ) Islands HUlCl Ddl"nll. a Sea View. Kirst-class accom- modation. Good Fishing and Bathing. Croquet. Tennis. Terms Moderate. CnjiV Channel Biindoran Great Northern Railway Company (IRELAND). BUNDORAN, CO. DONEGAL. THE GREAT NORTHERN.- Commands fine views of Donegal Bay and the neighbouring ^Mountain Ranges. Lighted by Electricity throughout. Sea and Fresh Water Baths (Hot or Cold). Excellent Eighteen Hole Golf Links on Hotel Grounds, free to Visitors staying at the Hotel. Croquet. Tennis. Tnsurpassed facilities for Lake, River, and Sea Fishing. Coaching. Sea Bathing. ROSTREYOR, CO. DOWN. THE GREAT NORTHERN.— Beautifully situated on Carlingford Lough, and completely sheltered from the North and Last winds by the Mourne Mountains. Luxuriously fitted and furnished, and lighted by Elec- tricity throughout. Sea and Fresh Water Baths (Hot or Cold). WARRENPOINT, CO. DOWN. THE. GREAT NORTHERN. -Situated at the head (if Carlingford Lough, commanding uninterrupted views of the Mourne Mountains, the Omeath and Carlingford Hills, and shore and the full extent of th ■ Lough. Hot and ("old Sea or Fresh Water P>atli:;. Combined Rail and Hotel Tickets are issued at the Company's principal Stations, from which also rooms may be telegraphed for free of charge, but the issue of Combined Tickets to Bundoran is suspended between the 15th July and the 15th September. For terms apply to the Managers at the Hotels. T. MORRISON, Secretary. Amiens Street Terminus, Dublin. Blair Atholl — Cambridge ATHOLL ARMS HOTEL AND POSTING ESTABLISHMENT (ADJOINING THE STATION), BLAIR ATHOLL. D. MACDONALD & SONS, Proprietors. BLAIR ATHOLL is much the nearest and most central point from which to visit Killiecpankie, the Queen's View, Loehs Tummel and Rannoeh, Glen Tilt, Brae- mar, the Falls of Bruar, Garry, Tummel, and Fender ; ' the Grounds of BlaiP Castle, &c. ; and-4t is the most con- venient resting-place for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland. POSTING DEPARTMENT Complete & Extensive. GOLF COUBSE. CAMBRIDGE. THE BULL HOTEL. PRINCIPAL FAMILY HOTEL. Patronised by the Royal Family, Nobility, and Gentry. SITUATED CLOSE TO THE PRINCIPAL COLLEGES. Recently redecorated and refurnished throughout. Apply MANAGERESS. Also the "Queen's Hotel," Penzance, the " York House Hotel," Bath, &c. EDMUND A. SAUNDERS, Proprietor. Chiirch Stretfon — Clevedon—Colwyn Bay ii THE HOTEL, CHURCH STRETTON ■^HIRTEEN miles from Shrewsbury, on the Shrewsbury and Here- Vi>' ford Railway. This Hotel is Delightfully situated at the base of the Strelton Hills, the beauty and extent of which, together with their Historical, Botanical, and Geological interest, are unrivalled. It is replete with every comfort for the Tourist or Invalid. For the latter, the salubrity of its situation renders it a desirable retreat either in Summer or Winter. Golf, Lawn Tennis, Bowls, Billiards. N.B. — The purity of its water is highly recommended by the Medical Profession. Telegraphic Address {2 words only) : — " Hotel, Church-Stretton." FoK Terms Apply to the MANAGERESS. Cl-EVEDOW. WALTON PARK HOTEL ■^HE Most Comfortably-furnished Hotel in the West of England, beauti- V^ fully situated on Walton Cliffs, directly facing the sea. The exten- sions are now completed, redecorated and refurnished. Large Lounge and Recreation Room. Perfect Sanitation. Seven .\cres of pleasure Grounds, containing 4 Tennis Courts and 2 Croquet Lawns. Excellent Cuisine and Wines. Special Motor Garage, with Inspection Pits. Golf. Tela., "Seaside, Clevedon." Nat Tel. 0,150 Clevedon. For Tariff and Brochure apply to STANLEY D. GORDON. Manager. COLWYN BAY, NORTH WALES. f irsNClass family Ibotcl SITUATE ON THE BORDERS OF THE BAY. A Telephone No. 9. ^ ^. ^\ HOT AND COLD SEA-WATER BATHS IN THE HOTEL. BILLIARD & SMOKE ROOMS. MOTOR GARAGE WITH PIT. PRIVATE SUITES IN NEW WING. fORTKRS IN SCARLET ZIVERT attend all Trains, Wmter Residence. MISS JONES, MANAGER. Critden Bay — Cromer CRUDEN BAY. A Popular Seaside and Golfing Resort, 30 Miles from Aberdeen, on the GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY. Splendid Beach— two miles long. Sea Bathing. Boating. Fishing. Healthy and Invigorating Climate. The Golf Course of 18 holes, laid out by the Railway Company, is pronounced by distinguished Players to be one of the best in the Kingdom. Ladies' Course of 9 holes. CRUDEN BAY HOTEL OWNED BY THE GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY COMPANY, /^CCUPIES a Charming Site, overlooking the Bay of Crulen. Every Vjy Modern Accommodation. Electric Light. Lift. Bowling Greens. Tennis Courts. Croquet Lawns. Electric Tramway between Station and Hotel. Address inquiries to the Manager, Cruden Bay Hotel, Port ErroU, N,B. See P.^LACE Hotel Advertisement, Page 2. CROIYIER, NORf 01.K. ^ First class Private Hotel. Sea view to most Rooms. Accommodation for Sixty Visitors. Electric ^^...^^^ -_--.-—. Light. Separate ^^-''^^ V*^^ "^ Tables. ^.^^t IkW ^^^""^'^ 2^^°^ ^oa^'l- ing Establishment. Opening on Parade. Te-nis strictly moderate. Telephone 0174a, Private Apartments at ALGAR HOUSE. ^"t. Tel. No. 0174. R. W. CL.\RKE, Proprietor. W jt^ )^ CROMER, NORFOLK. ^^^ First-Class Trivate Hotel. Beautifully ^,»««^'^ 1^ siiuatcd on the WVst Cliff, and occupi«;s one of the finest positions in Cromer. The whole extensive frontage F.aces the Sea, New Pier, and Prom enade. ^ OV sis s^^ .v.^ Wiih every luxury and convenience. Fine Dining Ha'I (r.npable of dining 120 Visitors), Larae Entrance Hall, Drawing .nnd Smoking R>Bi i ^ Golf Course to Hotel Visitors. J. B. WIVELL, Lessee. ENGLISH LAKES. SWAN HOTEL, NEWBY BRIDGE. ylf Ihe foot 0/ U'itiderinere Lake. ll'ithin a miU of Lake Side Station and Steamboat Pier of the Furness Kaihvay. /flNNE of the oldest Hostelriesin the Enfflish Lake District, and patronised for centuries Vj*' past by the Celebrities of the day. tlie good old-fashioned style being studiously retained bv the present Proprietor. Tariff economically arranged. One of the most chartuing Retreats in the Lake District. For Boating, Fishing (trout, salmon), lovely Walks and Drives, and for retirement, this Hotel is unsurpassed in the District. Golf. EDWIN WAUr.H says—" Home-like and well furnished." Nathaniel Hawthorne says—" The Gem of the Lakes." Guides Generally say— " One of the loveliest beauty spots." Spacious Coffee Koom. Table d'Hote, Separate Tables. Book to Lakeside (F.R) Bus meets Trains and Boat. Postal Address: Swan Hotel, Newbv Bridge, Ulverston. Te!e^ra7ns : " ReveU, Newby Bridge.' W.M. T. LEVELL, PROPRIETOR. Exeter — Falmouth — Gtienisey — Harrogate 1 7 EXETE R. f^OYAL CI-AREWCE MOTEL. lACING GRAND OLD CATHEDRAL. 0=: 5 3 J. HEADON STAN BURY, Proprietor FALMOUTH, As a Tourist Centre, owns many attractions, and as a Winter Resort is frequently recommended by the leading Medical Practitioners. THE GREEN BANK HOTEL 3.S beautifully situnled, wiili chaniang Views of tUe Harbour, Pendennis and .St. ISIawts Castles, and is replete with every homely accom- modalion for Families a d Gentlemen. Ladies' Drawing Room, liilliaid Room. Posting in all its Branches. High-class Hotel wiili Moderate Tariff. Visit- rs taken en pensioi duiing the Winter ^Months. Hotel Onmibus meets all Trains and Steamers. M. MITCHELL, Puoi-rjetkuss. Guernsey—The Richmond, ^^"S:gHo:^e'in'^S:d Islands. ^eM^^ fium 5/6 per day. Write for Illustrated Taiill. Mr. .^ Mrs HART. Pr.>i.rietors. riio»incov RdI Aiv Boarding Establishment, t emre of E^pia- UUOlliOdJf DCl-ftll iiade. Close to and faciii.u Sea. Close lo Markets. Cyfle and .Motor Car aecommodatioii. leinis Moderate. Apply SYMKS (mention Guides), Proprietor. Telegrams— "S.NOW, H Aia ogati;.' Gujite Series, 1901-5. 1 8 Harrogate — Hay ling Island — Ilfracombe Harrogate-Marlborough House Gardens. Close to the Wells, P>a First-class Boarding Establish- ) ment, 'Valley Drive,' facing , laths, Moors, & principal attractions of Harrogate. Terms from 35/- I. CARTMEL. UoYiDAriQ+n Uofhorlflu —Private Apartments. 6, Hanow Moor ndllUgdltj—ndlllCllCj. Drive. Overlooking Moors and Valley Gardens. Near Pump Room, Baths, & Kursaal. Electric Light. Highly Recommended. Th' >Hsses RUSHWORTH. HayliDg Islacd-Grand & Royal Holels-^rh"15ect'"R"epi:te with every comfort. Cycle and Motor accommodation. E.xcellent Cuisine. Tariff on application. Tel. No. 6. Proprietor. The "CLIFTON" Ipru^atc ITDotcl Ss, BoarMno iBstabliebnient. ♦ CLOSE to and facing Sea. Magnificent Views. Charm- ing position. Spacious and most comfortable Rooms. Table d'Hote. Balconies. Baths. Perfect Sanitation. Moderate. C. MARTIN. THE GRANVILLE FIRST-CLASS BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT 1,H00 BEFKREXCKS I A VlSITOJiS' HOOK. rf INEST Drawing Room in Ilfracombe. Forty-four Bedrooms. Baths. JJ Balconies. Position unrivalled. Billiards. Comfort, sociability, good cooking. Bijou Guide gratis. Magnificent sea and land views. W. R. FOSTER. Proprietor. ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL {THE OLD COACHING HOUSE). jCIFTV wfcU-furnished rooms. Spacious Coffee Room, D. awing Rooms, JJ Smokini Room, &c. Noied house for its Comfort, Cleanliness, and Cuisinerie. RIoderate Terms. Tariff on application. Ho»-l 'Bus meets trains. Billiards. Na^ Telephone: "57, Ilfiacoinbe." Telegrams: "Clarence, Ilfracombe." COOK'S COUPONS. G. BRIGHTLING TESTER, Proprietor, 6d, The WINDSOR. 6d. TJfracntnbe tq ^.^x ILFRACOMBE. kb^ P R I O E ' SI CAPSTONE BOARDING ESTABLISHIVIENT AND RESTAURANT, ST. JAMES'S STREET. PLEASANTLY situated, two minutes' walk from the Pier, Capstone Parade, and overlooking the Victoria Promenade. Spacious Drawing, Dining, and Smoking Rooms. E.xcellent accommodation for Tourists. Single Beds from 1/6 per night ; Double Beds from 2/- per night ; Breakfast and Dinner from 1/2 : Teas from 6d. Boaiding Terms from 5/- per day, according to Season. Splendid Cuisine. A. R. PRICE, Protrietor. GARDNER'S MONTEBELLO Boarding HOUSE. tHE Oldest Established Family ar.d Commercial Boarding House. Is one of the Largest, Most Central, and Most Reasonable in Ilfracombe. Boarding Terms by Day or Week, Strictly Moderate and noE.\tras. Large Dining Hall. Commercial Room. Three minutes' walk from Sea. First- class Bedroom Accommodation, with pood Sea View. Under the Original Proprietor, W. H. SMYTH. ILFRACOMBE. ' Esplanade ' cKs Boarding Establishnient <5S in one of ihc 1-inest Positions. T'ninterruptcd Sea \'ie\v. Piivate Marine \V;,lk J adjoinini; Capstone Parade, and close to the \ictoria Pavilion and Pier. Spacious Dining and Drawing Rooms, with Balconies lacing the Sea. Smoking Rooms. Bath Rooms. Good Cuisine. Cleanliness and Home Comforts guaranteed. Moderate terms. Mrs. F. H. COLWILL, Proprietress. ' The Dudley ' cS Boarding Establishment fQEAUTlFULLV situated on the Sea l-iont. Uninterrupted Sea View, adjoining JD Capstone Par.ide. Lar(;e Dining. Drawing, and Smoking Rooms with B..lconies facing the Sea. Excellent Cuisine. Mn.li r;;te Tcrn.s. ..\l.ply-M.\N.\(',nKI-SS. Il-FI?AC01Yl BE. IMPERIAL HOTEL. UNIQUE SITUATION, FACING SEA AND CAPSTONE. UHIS well-kno«n and lirstclass Private Hotel, rej.lute with comfort and luxury, contains 100 Apartments, elegant l.i'unge. Drawing, Billiard, and Ball Rooms, hleciric 1 ight now added. Balconies. Goll. En pension, from 42/- to 3} guineas, according to room and season. For Illustratcil Tariff apply to LEONARD PARSONS, Man.igiT. CH.\S. DKKW lOswestryl. PKOPRItTuR. Telegrams— " Imperial Hotel, Ilfracombe.' National Telephone, No. 22. THE QUEENS HOTEL (Family, Commercial. & Coaching). Opposite Ccneral Post UtVice. Under same Proprietor and M.^nagenient. Apply for Illustrated lariir. Ell pension, from 4-'/-. Pratt's Spirit .'or Motor Cars. Ilfrarombc — Isle of Afari Il-F-I^ACOmBE. ROYAL BRITANNIA HOTEL ■ff H (i ■ Oldest Eslabliched and ii.obt Coiiifortable HuL"jl iu Ilfiacumbc. Vlr Faces the Harbi.ur, and lIoji- In ibe Beach, Baths, Pier, and Pavil;on. 'Jtrins "En I'eiisic n.' Very Moderate Tariff. SPACIOUS DICING, DB AWING, COFFEE AND SMOKING BOOMS. National Telephcue, 4. Mr. K. J. TAMLYN, Troiriktor. THE GILBERT AND CARLTON. /"^NE of the most well-known and charminglj' situated FIRST-CLASS W PRIVATE HOTELS and BOARDING ESTABLISHMENTS in Ufracombe, standing close to and facing the Sea, Capstone F'arade, Pavilion, and Pleasure Grounds. Spacious Drawing, Dining, Readii g, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Sixty Bediooms. Hot and Cold Baihs. Noted for its Liberal Table. Table d'Hote at 6.30. Moderate inclusive Tariff on application. Nat. Telephone 16. J. TRELEASE, Protrietoi;. llIrdCOniDC 1 06 UrOSVBDOr Most conveniently and pleasa'nUv situated, overlooking ihe Torrs Heights, Capstone Hdl, Parade, and .Sea. Close to Bathing Cove. Visitors will find every home comfort and convenience at "The Grosvenor." Table d'Hnte daily; Tea and Coffee .served after. Terms from ij} guineas \m\ week, according to ? < ason. .Sanitary .Vrraneements Perfect. Special Terms fo,- Wmter N'isiiors. .Mrs. PICKETT, Pronrietresy. ISLE OF MAN. Dodsworth's Boarding House & Private Hotel QUEEN'S PROMENADE, DOUGLAS. Southern Aspect. Select end of Bay, facing Sea. LATE DINNERS. TERMS ON APPLICATION The Novel of the Year is ANNA, THE ADVENTURESS. By \i. I'iiii.i.ii'S Opi'Hmieim. I'rirc ft.v. Of nil JiookfteUers. Tslc nf .^fa/i—/nsfo7i)—Is/e of Wirhf 5^^ DOUGLAS. O^ The Villiers Hotel IgEAUJIFULLY situated on the Bay. The Largest and Leading Hotel. Every convenience. Cuisine and Wines perfect. LIFT TO EVERY FLOOR. Terms Moderate. Tariff on appUcation. Mks. DRENNAN, Man.agf.ress. INSTOW, NORTH DEVON. MARINE HOTEL UMDEH yEW MANAGEMENT. CH.AKM ING Situation, overlooking Rivers Torridge and law and Bay. Private Lawn with Sea Wall. Croquet and Bowls. Near Railway .Station, Post and Telegrapli Office. Central for Places of Interest in Norili Devon. The Rivers aflord pleasant Boating and good Fishing. 0>vn Dairy and Poultry kept. Charges Moderate. Posting in all its Branches. Special Terms during Winter Months. 'I'ickets for Salmon and Trout I'isliing. J. B. C'OUNKBEAR, Pkoikietor. Sandown, I.W.-Montpelier Boarding House. Hth".^cS. Replete with every comfort. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. I iider personal supervision of Proprietresses. 1 he Misses JONES. Sandown, I.W. The Balconies ^^^^^ fJ:^^'!T'io. K'-plete with e aspect. onif.iri Mi>-.. South Jtfnilrrdte XrrtHfi. \\']A^Sll, Proprietress. Shanklin, I.W. Duecroft Boarding House. Within ."i few minutes' from .Sea ."v Station. .South aspect. Every Home Comfort. Liberal T.-ihle. Moderate Terms. Well recommended. MissF.s CROSS. Vpntnftr' T W — Rothol Villac Madeira Rd. furnished Apart IClllUUI, l.n. DCIUCI illiaa, ments. or Board & Residence. Beautifully situated ; splendid S^a View; full south aspect ; highly recommended. Terms on application. Mrs. G. ANDERSON. 22 Isle of Wight Shanklin, I.W. CHANNEL VIEW private Ibotcl. T7IRST-CLASS. Beauti- V fully situated, facing Sea. South aspect. Heated throughout during Winter. Excellent for Winter Resi- dents. Moderate Terms. Mrs. & Misses PARSONS, PuOrKIKlKESSEs. Yentnor, I.W.-Rayner's Temperance Hotel. — Under New Management. First-class Family and Commercial. Old-established. Central. Open situation. Within three minutes' of Sea. Replete with every Home Comfort. Charges Strictly Moderate. Terms on application. Yentnor, LL-Solent Hotel '''i:::::^^'^^lT}^o.l^^ Pier. South aspect. Boarding Terms from 30/- per week. Miss M. M: MEIKLEHAM, Proprietress. Vpntnnr I W Srdmnro Boarding House. -- Magnificent Sea KClllllUI, 1. n. HlUlllUlC View. Overlooking Pier. South aspect. Every Comfort, combined with Moderate Charges. Electric Light. Special Winter T erms. Miss L J. WILLIAMS, Proprietress. VENTNOR, ISLE OF WIGHT. THE ROYAL HOTEL, Rebuilt, Redecorated, and Furnished by Shoo/bred & Co. PATRONISED BY THE LATE QUEEN AND ROYAL FAMILY. Distinguished English, American, and Continental Families. STANDING in its own charming grounds of four acres. Magnificent Sea View, Public Drawing, .Dining, Coffee, Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Private Suites of Apartments, Conservatory, Lawn Tennis, &c. Carriages of all descriptions, Saddle Horses, excellent Stabling, High- class Cuisine. TABLE D'HOTE, SEPARATE TABLES. French, Oennan, Jtnlinn, and Dutch Spoken, TERMS MODERATE. Tariff and all particulars upon Application. H. CLOOTS, Proprietor. Jersey l}^ " 1/ you want health for the body, rest for the mind, pure air, and splendid scenery, all of God's gifts which go to fiiake a terrestrial Paradise, I emphatically advise yon to go to JerSisy." ■■■ ^ — Sir 'Be.nj.amin Bkodie. ' • THE RIVIERA OF GREAT BRITAIN. AN IDEAL ALL-THE-YEAR-ROUND RESORT. ff Magnificent Saloon Steamers run daily (/ii Southampton and Weymouth. Daily Excursions to France Three Splendid Golf Links. 18 Yachting Excursions, holes Promenade Concerts, &c. Excellent Hotel and Board- (nearest port 14 miles;. ing House Accommodation Lovely Walks. at Most Moderate Charges. Char a-Banc Excursions. High-Class Scholastic Insti- Flnest Sea Bathing in Europe I tutions. The annual reports of the Meteorological Council conclusively show Jersey to be the Sumiiest Spot in the United Kingdom, hence the best haven for health-seekers and holiday-makers alike. For Illustrated Guide, write SECRETARY, Commercial Association, 2, Queen Street, Jersey, C.L ROYAL YACHT HOTEL. CIIK (■lcle>t esl.-ibli^heii first-class Hott-1 in the Islands. Magnificent position, facing Sea and Harbours. Terms moderate and inclu i\e. for full particulars apply to the Manager- -H. LOGAN. Telegraphic Address-" YACHT, JERSEY." ROYAL HOTEL. {BREE'S.) Recherche Cuisine. Terms Moderate. Entirely Renovated, and under the Management of Mrs. E. BREE. 24 Kerry Fjords COUNTY KERRY. SOUTHERN HOTELS, Under the Management of the Great Southern & Western Railway, Ireland. HEALTH & PLEASURE RESORTS. Shooting, Fishing, Golf, Boating, Batliing, etc. T SOUTHERN HOTEL, PARKNASILLA. Situated on Grand Atlant'c Coast Route. HIS Hotel is a comparatively recently biiiit one It s'ands on an inlet of the sea, 15 miles by road Irom Kenrnare Railway Station. Its grounds of over 200 acres are well wooded and sheltered. It affords excellent Sea Bathing, Fishing, and Boiling, and is an ideal holiday resort. INIedicaied and Sea Baths (Hot and Co'd) have been fitted. Coaches run dailj' during Tourist Season to Kenmare, Waterville, and Cahirciveen an i vice versa. SOUTHERN HOTEL, WATERVILLE. ON the shore of Lough Currane, and within half a mile of the sea. Salmon and Trout fishing commen:e; here on ist February, and the hou.se is already well known to .\nglers from all parts of Great Britain and Ireland. This Hotel has l)=en enlarged, and every modern improvement introduced. There is an excellent 9-hole Golf Links within lA miles. Coaches to Parknasiila and Kenmare, and also to Cahirciveen, daily during Tourist Season, and vice versa. Hotel Cars meet guests, if advised, at Cahlrci\een Railway Station. SOUTHERN HOTEL, CARAGH LAKE. TinTHIN half a mile of G. S. & W. Railway Station: beautifully VV situated on the shore of Caragh Lake, and surrounded bv unrivalled scenery. The Company has secured e-xtensive and exclusive Fishing and Shooting rights, and good Links, for the use of its guests. Government Trout Hatchery in own grounds. This T^Iotel has also been enlarged and improved, and now contains spacious Coffee Room, Drawing Room, Billiard Room, .Smoking Room, large and lofty Bedrooms, Private .Sitting Rooms, SOUTHERN HOTEL, KENJVIARE THIS House has been quite recently built, and will be found replete with every modern comfort and convenience, including Electric Light. It is just on the outskirts of the town, and commands a grand view_ of the Kenmare Sound and surrounding country. Coaches run daily during the Tourist Season from this Hotel to Parknasiila, Waterville, and Cahirciveen, and also to Glengarritf and Kd'arney. Passengers on either of these famous Coacn Routes will find Kenmare a convenient and attractive resting place, and an admirable centre from which to tour " the Kingdom of Kerrj'." There are excellent Golf Links adjoining the Hotel GroundB. Coupons issued to any of above Hotels at Dublin (Kingsbiidge), Cork, and W.aterford Stations. Full particulars of any of the above Hotclsmay be obtained on app'icaMon to the I\Iana(;eh. SOUTHERN HOTEL, KENMARE, CO. KERRY. Illustrated Pamphlet, "Kingdom of Kerry," post free. Lee Bay— Lizard — Liverpool Salubrious Climate. Atlantic Breezes. A Perfect Health Resort in Sunny Devon. ANOR HOTEL. LEE BAY, NEAR ILFRACOMBE. '^'HIS I'icturesque Family Hotel stands in own grounds, Vi^ adjoining the Sea and commanding the whole Bay. Beautiful Valley, grand scenery with the Sea combined. It is the only licensed premises within i\ miles. Station, Mortboe, 2\ miles. Ilfracombe Steamers, 3 miles. The Lizard-Hill's Lizard Point Hotel, """^T^,. 'aTl^: Mo'or Services. Openall iheyear. Tabled'HAie l.uncheon.sriaily, 12. :^o 10 2. go p.m. 'J'ahlc d'Ho e. -.qop.m. Faniilie- fi; />e)»(Q)t. Lizard, Cornwall-Housei bay Hotelr^'^t Kri"a,':.^'^Th "«,.:. class Hiitel commands magnificent views o^ llie Coast, iS; is the only Hotel situated close to the Sta and leaiitifid Hou.sei P.ay I'each. Golf, tiatliins:, Boating, Hsliing, Hill'ards. Motor C--ii S/aiions ate within tliree tnimites walk, andthe Lancnslihe and Vorkshire Station and Landings Stage within a convenient distance. c CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. T.nnd^n 27 ROYAL PALACE HOTEL, KENSINGTON, W. OCCUPIES the most charming position in London, over- looking Hyde Park and Kensington Palace Gardens, 350 Rooms. Every modern luxury MODERATE TARIFF, En Pension Terms from 10s. ed per day. Orchestra Plays Eaily. VISITORS TO LONDON. TRANTER'S temperance HOTEL, 6 to 9, BRIDGE WATER SQUARE, BARBICAN, E.C. MOST CENTRAL FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE. Close to Aldersjjate Street Metropolitan Railway Station, and near St. Paul's Cathedral, General Post Office, and AI.L Places of Interest. Home-like, Highly Uespectable, and Select. BED and BREAKFAST from 3s. 6d.. TEA from Is. to Is. 9d. All other charges equ.illy moderate. No charjje tor attendance. Establislied 1859. Highly Recommended. Clean and quiet. Electric Light 'riiroughout. WRITE FOR "Visitors' Guide," showing "How to Spend & Week ior longer) in London, ' with Tariff and Testimonials combined. Post tree on application. Telegraphic Address— " HEALTHIEST, LONDON." Night Porter. WILD'S TEMPERANCE HOTELS (LIMITED), 30 to 40, LUDGATE HILL, E.C. Central for Charitiy Crosn, Cannon Street, and Ilolborn Viatliirt Stations for the Continent. ALSO .AT 70 and 71, EUSTON SQUARE. Close to Kiiston, Midland, and (ireat northern Stations. Home Comforts, Cleanliness and Quiet, .^>^^<^>« ■ CENTRAL FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE. 28 Londo7i — Lowestoft (s^'A LONDON. Ke) Cranston's Waverley Hotels (unlicensed). The KENILWORTH, GREAT BUSSJJLL STBEE1\ Telegrams : "EVERYONE." Opened March, 1903. 200 Rooms. The WAVERLEY, SOUTHA3IPTON BOW, Tcleirrams: ' ROBSART " Opened March, 1900. 150 ROOMS. High'Cla;> Billiaiils, Lawn Tennis, Carriages, iSic. ■^HE abo\e Hotel is now (he great centre for breaking the journey eitl-.er Vlr going North or South. Passengers by the London Mail have time to breakfa>t and then proceed by SS. "Countess of I'.ieadalbane ' down the Loch. I). I'RA.S|;R, Proi'RIKTc Llandrindod Wells YorR House Sf.!,r>.w^K''fS (" luoM, a'ld (;..ir Liiik^;. Every ci iiil'.nt ; I'.ltctric Ligbt ; FVicycIf Llandimdod Weill 'Mon'ipeJlier' ^^i^!^^^^^^'%^:;^h Khyber House, for privaieapartments.r whole house. P.O. Tel. 9. Teis,. ■ MoniiRrllier.' .Miss TVSOK SMITH. Llandiindod Wells-Tne Lindens H°l1^k wrAs^ecJ.'ao*" to \Vell>, Haths, and Coif Links. Every Comfort. Electric Light. ivlinKT.ao Terni^. Ki-liiiig. Miss SHICRN, Proprietress. Llandrindod Wells-South End ^^^^^];ESS. Lyme Regis-Hotel Alexan(lra."^^:HSg'C"B;a;n:^,'Fi::h! ins, Hathinc, Clolt. Choice Wines. Excellent Cuisine. Jeniis Moderate. Conveyances meet trains, L. & S.W.R. J. O'NKIl- Mullion, Cornwall-Mullion Cove HotehSg"thrwhor^;rp of Mounts Bay. Situation unsurpassed. Golf Links within easy distance. Splendid Fishing, Boating, and Bathing. Billiards. 'I'crnis, apply M.\nagf.k, Mnllion Cove Hotel, Mullion R.S.O. ManCneSter-lDgnani S Hotel, FamUy anT commercial'.'' Mo'st Central and well appointed. Fully Licensed. Nat. Tel. 2o8r. M. IsrSHKLL. Proprietor. Matlock Bank-Dalefleld Hydros '^^■Sn.forrabif'Hom:"" Fui^ Hydropathic Baths. Terms 35 - to 42/- per week. Nati.)nal Telephone No. oiSi. GEO. B. BARTON. SMEDLEY'S Hydropathic Establishment, MATLOCK. — 4— ESTABLISHED 1852. — ♦ — Railway Station— MATLOCK BRIDGE. Postal and Telegraph Address- MATLOCK BANK. Founded by the late John Smedley upwards of thirty years ago, this establishnienl has gone on increasing, until, from an origin the most insig- nificant, it has become one of the largest iji the kingdom. The Turkish and Russian Baths are specially atlapted, in ventilation and management, to the requirements of invalids, and the diet, meal huurs, and general arrangements of the house, have special regard to the same, without being unnecessarily restricted. The belting, ventilation, and sanitary arrangements are under constant and skilled super\ision. Amusements are promoted to the utmost, com- patible with the primary purpose of the place. For fuller particulars, see the prospectus, to be had on application to the Matron. iSxndc Series, 1904-3. 6 34 Newquay — Oxford HEADLAND HOTEL BEST Position on the Cornish Coast. Invigora- ting air from the Atlantic. Most comfortable Hotel and Moderate Tariff. The Renowned Newquay Golf Links adjoin the Hotel. Electric Light. Elec- tric Lifts. National TelephOEe 0196 Newquay. NB WQ VA Y, COBNWALL, "MOIRAH," First- claims Boarding Bstablishment, 'PHE finest position in Newquay, stands in its own grounds, commands a i magnificent and unrivalled Sea View, and is situated within a few minutes' walk of the Church, Beaches, Station, Golf Links, ai d Tennis Courts. Baths (Hot and Cold). Moderate Terms. Special Terms to Winter Visitors. Mr. and Mrs. \V. DINNIS, Proprietors. 022::FOie:]D. MITRE HOTEL, In the Centre of the Finest Street in Europe. This well-known First-class Hotel for Ladies and Gentlemen contains Dining, Drawing, Reading, and Smoking Rooms, also Tea an^ Lounge Room. ♦ ELECTIllC LIGHT. NIGHT FORTEB. BILLlAliDS. GOOD STABLING. Tariff on application to the Manageress, Telephone No. 33. Mi.ss K. THORNTON. Penzance — Pi\'?n()iith — P7v///i(li — Rh\l 35 T»E NZANCE THE QUEENS HOTEL. Penzance has the most equable climate in England, Cool in Summer, Warm in Winter, THE Queen's Hotel is the largest and Principal Family Hotel facing the Sea and South. It has a frontage of 175 ft., and commands a full and uninterrupted view of St. Michael's iMount and Mounts Kay. Magnificent Public Rooms, all facing the Sea, and Private Suites of Apartments. Modeiate Tariff, and inclusive Winter Terms. Hotels in connciiion -.cith the above — Bull Hotel, Cambridge. York House Hotel, Bath. &c. KDMl'NI) A. SAINDHRS, Pk(i1'kietor. Plymouth— Hoe Mansion Pension from 2 yiiintas weekly. iMi StaView. J^aths, Bdliards, Smoking Room. Terms HARDIMAN, Proprietress. Plymoutli-Hoslyn House ^^ Ceiitr.-il fur sea, luwn, S; Hiehen reCer Leiuhani Terrace, The Hoe. Pleasantly situated, tation. Cheerful house. Baths (h. & c). given. Terms. 30 - to 42'-.— Pr.^prietress. PwlllieH, N. Wales- West End Hotel. -First-class. 70 Rooms. Facing Sea. Good centre for Coaching, Fishing, liathing. Boating, Tennis, Clolf. Moderate inclu-iveTaiiff. Electric LigV-t. SEYMOUR KADY, Proprietor. Pwllheli, N. Wales-South Beach Hotel -{^::rnfsl"'E4t- Home Coinf irt. Private sitting-rooms. E.\cellent Cuisine. Terms M.Hlerale. Telegrnms: "Hndgetts PwUheli." Fannly and Rhyl, N. Wales-Crosvenor Temperance Hotel, con. cial. catei Opposite Station. Schools, Choirs, and Parties specially ed for. Restaurant. A. W. I.AMKS, Proprietor. Khjl, N. Wales-Cliilweirs Private Hotel ;"' Kzf^f. 'wS Parade. Facing Sea. Hon.e ("omfort combined with Moderate Charges. Special Terms f.r \Vint>;r. Mks. CH 11 .WELL. N. Wales-The Charlton ^^^ ^Ht^^^^'^c^ .Sea Every Home Comfort. Ivvcell Sneci^'l Terms for Winter \'isi'ors. It Cuisine. Mrs. Moderate Terms CHARLTON. Rhyl Morville Private Hotel "'t tl First-class Boarding Establish- ment. East Parade. Facing Sea, close to (",olf I. inks. Every comfort. Moderate Terms. Special Terms for Winter Visitors. Mrs. EMBREV, Proprietress. 36 Rhyl—Richnwnd—Scarboroiigh Rhyl, N. Wales Pen-y-Don ""T.^^^ ft^'^^^I^^Zl ^ to Golf I,inks. I'.illiard Room. Late Dituier. Moderate Terms. Oprn all tlic year round. M rss STKFVKTT, Proprietress. Richmond, Yorks The ^mt'^'^^^.^^^^^^^^^^y sifin-ry. Cood '! ciinis i^C: C,'ro(|uel Lawn. Near Golf Links X; (Jood Kishiii '^ Tel. No. 27. For 'I'ernis, apply MissFS HICKMAN. Salcombe, S. Devon-York House, "l^e^^^^i.^.fffiiu.tS: Adjoining and oNerlookink' Harbour. Private Quay trontage. Ideal Snninie r or Winter Resort. Wrile for Tariff. Saltburn-by-the-Sea-Yictoria ^r?;.^.lt, IS^did ^.0=: Sea View. Close to Pier, Gardens, Baths, & Golf Links. Excellent Cnisine & Moderate Terms. Miss FLEURY, Proprietress. Salthurn-by-the-Sea-BRITANNlAHOUSE"SSHstt Mau'nificent Vievvn of.Sea, Clitf, S:\'aUey ; near Pier, Gardens, Pjaths, and Golf Links. Hiudilv rei^omniended. Special Winter Terms. OCarDOrOUgfl-lDe trOWn FlrstcUss Boarding House is pleasamly situated, close to Spa Grounds, & overlooking Sea. Terms from £■, js. per week. Special Winter Terms. Miss RUSHWORTH. Scarborough -Holbeck Boarding House, '^tm tVsandrand G.uclens. Sonlh Cliff. Exxellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. Kleclrir Light. Telephone s X 5. M KS. 1SLACK.MAN. Scarborough-Emerson's """"^^oS^^^^^^L^ S I lining Room (small tables), Drawing & Smoke Rooms, Batli(h.&c.) Home Comforts, Mixhrale terms. Mrs. EM ERSON. Proprietress. Scarborough, Yorks Crescent Private Hotel "''houTJ!""^ Established nearly 30 years. Splendid situ.ition. Near Spa, SiC. Views of Sea and Cliffs. Moderate Terms. Telegrams — "Crescent Hotel, Scarboro." H. LI. SUMMERS, Proprietor. -First- cla^s. Standing in its own grountls. Contains 70 Rooms, Lounge, Library, Smoking, Drawing, and Recreation Rooms. Magnificent Dining Hall. ICIectric Passenger Lift. Telephone and Electric Light in all Bedrooms. Baths (h. & c). Excellent Cuisine. College Chef and Kitchen Staff from Oxford. Nat. Tel. 100. Telegrams — "Ashley, Scarl'nro." T. A P. ASHLEY, Proprietor Scarborough, Yorks Cecil Boarding House. iS'r'.'L mitldle of Fsplaiuule, u iih unirttrrupted view of the whole South l',.>v. H.. me comforts. Moderate Terms M issKs H A R KQWBY. Scarborough-" Belle Yue" ^S!SilgeSan7e\'o^"K:!i- way Station. I'.lectric 1 rams pass the door. Boots meets all trains. 1. M ATKINSON, Proprietor Scarborough Blanchard's Private Hotelrcu'i."'otriooki'g .Spa >^ Bay. Close to Golf Links. Apply Mi;s. N. HICKSON. Telegrams- " Bl.incliard's Hotel, Scarboro." Nat. Tel, o?.)'^. Scarborough -Leighton House -^tm^:.?es':X o?;s".a. s^^^ Gardens, .St.ation. i\:c. Reading S: Smoking Rooms. Billiard Table. Cycling Accommouation. Moderate Terms. Mi „ CROWN HOTEL. .|CIRST-CLASS Family and Commercial Hot>-l. Opposite the General Jl Post OfTice and three minutes from the Railway Station. This Hotel has been greatly enlarged and improved by the Proprietors, TiiK CitUKCii Stretton HoTKi, CoMi'ANV. A Revised and exceedingly Moderate Taxiff. Especial attention is given to the (piality of the Wines ajid Spirits supplied. OMNIBUS MEETS ALL TRAINS. EoK Tkkms, Apply M.'\N/\(;EKESS. Southsea Glenyon Private Hotel. ;-^'^:r'Ri;^;::ri^.iu!;tr;; coMif'irt. Hdiiard Room. Klectric Light. Kn Pension. Moderate T.rn.s. Nat. Tel. 07.) I. Mrs. S. SMIlll, Proprietress. Southsea Sandringham Private Hotel. -^^" Suon. *"""' .Mk. and Mk.. IIIO.S. SMITH. Proprietors. Southsea Scullard's Victoria Hotel, '■:t]^.^^:~^:^ siliiatL-d. close to CiMrcnco Pier .mil Par.i.lc. Replete wilii every comfort. TaLledllotc. Ifxcelleiil CnisiiK;. Mod. Icrrn'S. I-:iectric Cars p.iss the door. Mini. Tel. No. r,7« MKS SCUM.AUI). Proprielrpss. Southsea Belgrave Boarding Establishment, ^nufsiuh- no cduniion l)etwi-en ; nearest Kst.al.lishnieiit tn Sea. A perfect l|..lidav r-s-.rl. 'I Vlepli, me 1./.. Mr. ,^- Mrs. IIARKV C. |ONKS. Swanage, Dorset 'traigside'; ''tX;::::: 'x^^lr:';;;;^;^ refined Honie. View of P.ay. 'I errace for promenading. Hracing. Central. (lolf Links. ICxcellent Cuisine. Mksks FKLL. Symonds Yat Royal Hotel. 71^; '^^^^rch.^^ghln.chSowr^ ( '.oodriih Castle, Tinlern .Xhbey. Salmon i'>t Trout Fishing. Stalactite Cases. Billiards. H. C. IJAUMGARTE, Crown Lessee. Sidmuiifk — Strathpejfer HIJJ M O UTU, S. n E VON. FORTFIELD HOTEL. H FIRST-CLASS Family Hotel complete with every luxury and con- venience. Stands in its own private grounds, full 'joutli and facing sea. Three minutes from Medical Baths, close to Golf Links. Com- pletely sheltered from North and East winds. Furnished by Maple & Co. Heated throughout; High-class Cuisine ; Selected Wines ; Moderate tarilT; Home Comforts. Sanitaiy arrangements perfect. Private Omni- bus. MICHAEL HEALY, Profrihtor and Manager, Late of the Knowle Hotel. SP^ £^nUestEstabUshed txA ■^^^SfafngHoter.n HIGHbST SITUATION in STRATHPEFFER FOUR HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE SEA. ^^HE Hotel stands on its own grounds, and is secluded enough to secure to visitors the privacy and quiet of an ordinary country residence. Contains SPACIOUS PUBLIC ROOMS. CONSERVATORIES, LIBRARY, BALL and RECREATION ROOMS. Close to the GOLF COURSE. CYCLE, and CROQUET and TENNIS COURTS in Hotel Grounds. Salmon and Trout Fishing in River and Lochs. Grouse & Low Ground Shooting Electric Light throughout. A. WALLACE, Managing Director. Shath pcffer — Sou It porf 39 STRATHPEFFER HIGHLAND SPA. BENWYVIS The Principal HOTEL. HIGHLAND SPA Oy : WARD, J.OC'K tt CO., LTD. Guide Book Advertiser 45 SIXPENNY STANDARD NOVELS AND POPULAR BOOKS. Mostly Large Demy Svo. Bound in Attractive Wrappers. Waverley Sir Walter Scott j 65 KenilWOrth Sir Walter Scott ! 66 Ivanhoe sir Walter Scott i The Antiquary Sir W;ilier Scott 67 Paul Clifford Bulwer I.ytton The Last Days of Pompeii 63 Biihver I.ytton Pelham I'.uUvcr I.ytton | 69 Eugene Aram Bulwer Lytton Midshipman Easy 76 Captain Marryat JaphetinSearchofa. Father 7 7 Captain Marryat Jacob Faithful Captain Marryat 78 Peter Simple Captain Marryat So The Pickwick Papers Charles Dickens Nicholas Nickleby Charles Dickens Barnaby Rudge Charles Dickens The Old Curiosity Shop Charles Dickens Martin Chuzzlewit Charles Dickens 87 Oliver Twist Charles Dickens Dombey & Sou Charles Dickens 89 Valentine Vox Henry Cockton [ Charles O'Malley Charles Lever 91 Handy Andy Samuel Lover Yeast Charles Kingsley 92 Hypatia Charles Kingsley Helen's Babies John Habberton 9s \ other People's Children 96 (uhn Habberton 97 A Bad Boy's Diary Blunders of a Bashful Man 98 Catching a Husband By the Auilinr of "A Had I'.ov's Diary " 1 loi Uncle Remus N.C.Harris X. Y. Z- ^- ^- ('reen 102 The Sword of Damocles 103 .V. K. Creen 106 Hand and Ring A. K. Green The Leavenworth Case Creen 107 Shadowed by Three L. L. Lynch loS The Rival Detectives 109 L. L. Lynch no The Diamond Coterie m L. L. Ljnch The Detective's Daughter 112 I.. 1.. Lynch 1 13 Out of a Labyrinth - 117 L. L. Lynch 118 A Mountain Mystery L. L. Lynch : 19 I^ynch L. Lynch L. Lynch L. Lynch The Lost Witness L. L. A Detective Mystery L. L. Lynch A Mystery Solved L. Forging the Chain L Joining the Links L. Toilers of the Sea Victor Hugo History of a Crime Victor Hugo Ninety-Three Victor Hugo Margaret Catchpole Rev. R. Cobbold The Last of the Mohicans J . F. Cooper The Pathfinder ]. F. Cooper Detective's Dilemina Kiiiil Gaboriau Detective's Triumph Kniil Gaboriau In Deadly Peril Kmil Gaboriau Caught in the Net Gaboriau The Champdoce Mystery Kmil Gaboriau Mr. Barnes of New York A. C. Gunter The Princess of Copper A. C. Gunter Jane Eyre Charlotte Bronte Shirley Charlotte Bronte Looking Backward I'.tlward Bellamy Murders in the Rue Morgue K. A. Boe Mrs. Caudle's Curtain Lectures Jrrrokl A Mysterious Case K. F. Hill Frank Fairlegh F. Smedley Tom Brown s School Days '1 bi.nias Hughes The Gorilla Hunters R. M. Ballantyne The Coral Island Ballantyne Martin Rattler Ballantyne Ungava R. M. liallantyne The Young Fur-Traders R. RL I'.allantyne The World of Ice Bjllantyne The Dog Crusoe Ballantyne Westward Ho ! C. Kingsley Danesbury House Mrs H. Wood East Lynne Mrs. H . Wood LOMiOX : WAUD, L,OCK it CO., LI 3111 KU. 46 Guide Book Ackrrf/ser WARD, LOCK & CO.'S SIX SHILLING NOVELS BY POPULAR AUTHORS. Large Cvoimi Svo. Bound in Cloth Gilt, and mostly Illustrated. By STANLEY WEYMAN. My Lady Rotha. By S. R. CROCKETT. Joan of the Sword Hand. Strong Mac. By MAX PEMBERTON. Pro Patria. Christine of the Hills. A Gentleman's Gentleman, jewel Mysteries. The Gold Wolf. By A. E. W. MA50N. Lawrence Clavering. By TOM GALLON. Jarwick, the Prodigal. By A. W. MARCHMONT. When I was Czar. By Snare of Love. By SIR WM. MAQNAY, Bt. The Red Chancellor. The Man of the Hour. Count Zarka. By HAMILTON DRUMMOND. The Seven Houses. A Lord of the Soil. The Beaufoy Romances. On Behalf of the Firm. A Man's Fear. Room Five. By MAX ADELER (Charles Heber Clarke). Captain Bluitt. In Happy Hollow. By LOUIS TRACY. A Fatal Legacy. Rainbow Island. The Albert Gate Affair. By ARCHD. C. GUNTER. The Empty Hotel. The Spy Company. The Sword in the Air. The City of Mystery. By HEADON HILL. A Race with Ruin. By JUSTUS MILES FORIVIAN. The Garden of Lies. By ORME AGNUS. Love in our Village. Zike Mouldom. Sarah Tuldon. By J. C SNAITH. Fierceheart, the Soldier. Mistress Dorothy Marvin. Lady Barbarity. Willow, the King The Wayfarers. London: II Alii), LOCK a; CO., LTB. Guide Book Adve?-tise/' 47 Novels by Guy Boothby. Each Volume attractively illustrated by Staniev L. Wood and others. Crown Svo, Cloth Gilt, Special and Original Designs, 5s. A BID FOR FREEDOM A TVVO=FOLD INHERITANCE CONNIE BURT THE KIDNAPPED PRESIDENT MY STRANGEST CASE FAREWELL, NIKOLA! SHEILAH McLEOD MY INDIAN QUEEN LONG LIVE THE KING! A PRINCE OF SWINDLERS A SAILOR'S BRIDE A MAKER OF NATIONS THE RED RAT'S DAUCiHTER LOVE MADE MANIFEST PHAROS, THE EGYPTIAN ACROSS THE WORLD FOR A WIFE THE LUST OF HATE BUSHIGRAMS THE FASCINATION OF THE KING DR. NIKOLA THE BEAUTIFUL WHITE DEVIL A BID FOR FORTUNE; Or, Dr. Nikola's Vendetta IN STRANGE COMPANY; A Story of Chili and the Southern Seas THE MARRIAGE OF ESTHER; .\ Torres Straits Sketch London : U AliD, LOCK }0.i uwuan.ivCv Jii0.iuwuan.iN5O' % o ^lOSANCElfj-^ 5 = "^/^aaAiNn-Jwv^ |{C SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 1 A 000 077 257 7 '-^^OJIIVJ JV3 % o I? o ^ 5 "^AaMiNft-awv ^OFCAllFOff^ y^ ^OFCAllFOff^ S 1 oii-i o ^ r? ^OAavaan#' ^OAavaaniS^ '^d/OJIlVDJO^ ^WtUNIVERS//) ^lOSANCElfx^ ^ 5 oo so .^;0FCAIIF0% ^OFCAIIFOR)^ •5 ^—/l l- §