STACK 
 
 ANNEX 
 
 ilifornia 
 
 ;ional 
 
 ility 
 
 :^IRST YEAR LATHE WORK 
 
 BXT BOOK for STUDENTS ia TECHNICAL and MANUAL TRAINING SCHOOLS 
 
 PRICE 10 CENTS 
 
 SOUTH BEND LATHE WORKS 
 
 SOUTH BEND, INDIANA, U. S. A.
 
 The demand for machinists is so great 
 and the supply so limited in nearly ev- 
 ery city in the United States that the 
 manufacturers in the larger cities have 
 a standing offer with the Manual Train- 
 ing Schools for the employment of all 
 young men who have finished the 
 machine shop course.
 
 FIRST YEAR LATHE WORK 
 
 Prepared for Students in Technical, Manual Training, 
 and Trade Schools, and for the Apprentice in the Shop 
 
 <I Tin- Ntiiilcnt in llii' scliool shop takes a di'cp iiid'icst in niiikinii parts 
 for a niacliinc, knowinii 1 liat 1 he n\a<hini' will b<- asscnilil<-(l, antl placcci 
 in oprriition in t he s<'.hool shoj). 'I'his will fiivo him iiii opportnnit\- lo 
 ol>s('rv*' the reasons for t h*' Viirions op<'ratif>ns on <'iK*.h jol>. 
 
 ^ The instructor will he reli«-ve(l of endless and unnecessary det;iil, if 
 the instruction plan in tliis hook is followed. 
 
 I The inst rnet ion plan for hnildinij t his lit t le ( irinder has heen arranijed 
 t4> follow ehtsel_\- tin* methods us<'d in modern shop priU'ti<'e. so thiit the 
 sindeni who (inishes " Kirst ^'ear hallie Work"" intelligently, will he 
 familiar witli man>' of the f n ndamentals. when h<' starts out in lif<' on 
 his lirst jol) in the industrial machine shop. 
 
 CopyriiilU l;nr l.y OUUlliN HKOS. 
 ~.I. .1. O'Brien, M. \V. O'Brien 
 
 TEXT BOOK No. 2 
 
 SOUTH BEND LATHE WORKS SOUTH BEND, IND., U. S. A. 
 
 428 E. MADISON STREET
 
 
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 South Bexd Lathe Works, South Bend, Ixdiaxa 
 
 39 39 
 
 Pari Xiinihcrs and Xanics of S-| mli Hcnch (i 
 
 PART KO. \AME 
 
 I'AltT M). SAili: 
 
 23 Machine Bolts (4) 
 
 34 
 
 "T" Rest 
 
 29 Grinder Head 
 
 3.T 
 
 "T" Rest Bracket 
 
 30 Caps (2) 
 
 30 
 
 Angle Rest 
 
 ;U Spindle 
 
 37 
 
 Angle Rest Bi'acket 
 
 32 Spindle Pulley 
 
 3.S 
 
 Inside Flanges (2i 
 
 33 Rest Brackets L.I 2) 
 
 3!l 
 
 Outside Flanges (2) 
 
 4:") R. H. Spindle Hex. Xut 
 
 46 L. H. Spindle Hex. Nut 
 
 47 Fillister Head Cap Screws ( 4 1 
 
 48 Headless Set Screw 
 
 49 Sq. Head Set Screws (6) 
 
 50 Oil Cups (2) 
 
 51 Emery Wheels (2)
 
 A — lioverso 
 B — Back Gear Lpvit 
 C — Back Gears 
 D — Spindle Cone 
 E— Head Stock 
 I' —Face Plate 
 
 r; — Saddlp 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 — Lead Screw Bracket I 
 
 lead 
 
 R 
 
 — Cross Feed Ball Crank 
 
 11— Tool Tost 
 
 
 
 
 End 
 
 
 S 
 
 — (_'r<tss Feed Lever Knob 
 
 1 — Compound 
 
 Itcst 
 
 
 N 
 
 —Legs 
 
 
 ■1' 
 
 — Apron Xnt Cam 
 
 .1 — Tail Stock 
 
 
 
 1) - 
 
 —Apron Hand Wheel 
 
 
 I 
 
 —Rack 
 
 K — Tail Stock 
 
 Ilan.l 
 
 Will'.' 
 
 r- 
 
 —Apron 
 
 
 v 
 
 — Lead Screw 
 
 I Lathe Bed 
 
 
 
 t) 
 
 — Apron ("lutch 
 
 
 w 
 
 — Lead Screw Bracket Tail 
 stock End
 
 S () I' i' II B li N n L A T HE Works, So i; t n Be .\ i>, I x d i a x a 
 
 Princiiial Parts of a Standard Engine Latlio 
 
 On Page 4 UP illustrate a Standard Screw Cut- 
 ting Engine Lathe. We have lettered a few of the 
 most important parts, so that the beginner may be- 
 pome familiar with their use. 
 
 This Engine loathe is equipped with automatic 
 lonsiturtinal feed and automatic cross feed. To 
 operate the automatic longitudinal feed, loosen 
 Knob "S" by unscrewing, then push it down as far 
 as it will go. and screw tight. Fasten Knob "Q" 
 tight. The automatic longitudinal feed is now in 
 operation. 
 
 To release automatic longitudinal feed, siujply 
 unscrew Knob "Q," which I'eleases the friction 
 feed. 
 
 To connect the automatic cross feed, unscrew 
 Knob ■•S" and lift it as high as it will go, then 
 screw tight, fasten Knob "Q" tight. .\ow the 
 automatic cross feed is connected. 
 
 When the automatic cross feed is connected, 
 the automatic longitudinal feed is disconnected. 
 When the automatic longitudinal feed is connected 
 the automatic cross feed is disconnected. There- 
 fore it is impossible to have both feeds connected 
 at the same time, and while one feed is in oper- 
 ation it is impossible for the other feed to drop in. 
 
 For screw cutting neither of the automatic 
 feeds are used, so when cutting a screw be sure 
 to see that Knob "Q" is loose, not tight. In cut- 
 ting a screw or thread, the split nuts are clamped 
 on to the lead screw by Cam "T". For the detail 
 of thread cutting see Section 37 of book entitled 
 "How to Run a Lathe." 
 
 Oil the lathe frequently. If the lathe is used 
 every day, it should be oiled every morning be- 
 fore starting. Use a good grade of machine oil, 
 none other. Oil tlie head stock spindle, the back 
 gear quill, the spindle cone, the thrust collar, the 
 lead screw bearings, the apron gears and studs, 
 the carriage bearings, the rear carriage gib; and 
 move or operate each part by hand, to see that it 
 moves freely, before starting the lathe. 
 
 For further information of details and parts of 
 the Screw Cutting Engine Lathe, see little book 
 entitled "How to Run a Lathe." described on page 
 1)4 of this book. 
 
 CATALOG. Free interesting catalog. No. 50. 
 just off the press, describing the entire line 
 of South Bend Lathes, showing iirices of all 
 lathes and attachments. Catalog mailed free 
 to any address.
 
 South B e x d Lathe Works, S o ir t ii Bend. I x n i a x a 
 
 Contoriiig 
 
 To machine a shaft on centers 
 in the lathe, it is necessary that it 
 be centered. A hole is drilled and 
 countersunk in each end so that the 
 shaft may revolve on lathe centers. 
 Before centering a piece of soft 
 steel, care should be taken that the 
 shaft is as straight as possible, be- 
 cause the straighter the piece is, 
 the smaller the diameter of the 
 rough stock required. 
 
 There are many ways of center- 
 ing. Tte simplest is to chalk the 
 end of the shaft to be centered. 
 Scratch two lines at right angles to 
 each other, and where these lines 
 intersect will be the approximate 
 center of the shaft. See Fig. 4. 
 
 Drive center punch on the intersection of lines 
 on both ends of the shaft. Place the shaft thus 
 punched, on the centers of the lathe, revolve by 
 hand; if it does not run true, hold a piece of chalk 
 to the shaft while revolving and it will mark the 
 high spots. Place shaft in the vise once more, 
 drive the center in the direction necessary to have 
 the shaft run true. 
 
 Centering an Irregular Piece 
 
 Figure "M" shows the method of centering the 
 T Rest, or any irregular part that has a round 
 shank. 
 
 Chalk the ends of the part to be centered, and 
 place the part to be turned on the "V" Block. 
 With a surface gauge make a mark on both ends 
 of the piece. Then revolve the piece on the "V" 
 Block a quarter of a revolution, and make another 
 mark on each end. Complete the four quarters of 
 a revolution in this manner. The intersection of 
 these marks will be the proper center point.
 
 S o I- T K B j; .N 1) L A 1 II i: W o E K s, So u t ii B e .n ii. 1 n h i a n a 
 
 ir the piece to be machined is close to size in 
 the rough so that very little stock is left for fin- 
 ishing, care should be taken to see that the bar is 
 straight as possible and that the center holes are 
 located accuratelj- so that the shaft may be true 
 all over when finished. 
 
 Drill and countersink each end of the shaft un- 
 til a depth is reached sufficient to support the shaft 
 on the centers while it is being machined. A good 
 method of countersinking is shown in Fig. .">. 
 
 In centering a shaft that Is over 3 or 4 pounds 
 in weight, care should be taken to see that the 
 weight of the shaft does not break the center drill. 
 If the piece being centered is steel or iron, there 
 
 should be oil used on the center drill, and the oper- 
 ator should feed the shaft slowly to the drill. 
 
 If for any reason a center drill breaks and part 
 of the broken drill remains in the shaft, this 
 broken part should be immediately removed. 
 Sometimes you may be able to work the broken 
 part out with a chisel, but occasionally it sticks 
 so hard that it cannot be removed. In that case, 
 the broken part of the drill left in the shaft must 
 be annealed, and the only way to anneal it is to 
 anneal the end of the shaft. For annealing see 
 Section 63, I.athe Book. (How to Run a Lathe.) 
 
 Long shafts may be centered with a breast drill 
 or brace and bit. The regular countersinks may 
 be used in the same manner. 
 
 LIcO 
 
 Goil II t •'!•> 
 
 I k i 1 1 1 
 
 A drill chuck, holding a combined drill and 
 countersink (See Fig. .5B, page 8), is fitted to the 
 head spindle of lathe. Tlie shaft has already been 
 center punched. Place end of shaft on tail center and 
 
 Shalt ill the Lathe 
 
 hold with left hand, and feed to the drill by turn- 
 ing the wheel of tail stock. Allow the countersink 
 to enter the proper dejjth, countersink the other 
 end in the same manner.
 
 South B e x d Lathe Works, S o u i h Bend, Indiana 
 
 Drill and C'oiintorsink ('oiiiliiiicd 
 Fig. 5B shows a combined drill and counter- 
 sink, which is both the center drill and counter- 
 sink. Centering may also be done by a small 
 twist drill tor the center hole and a larger twist 
 drill ground 60 degrees following as a countersink. 
 
 Proper Countersink 
 
 I-iK. 8 
 
 ri«. 
 
 Figs. S and ii show two styles countersink that 
 are used to follow the small twist drill for counter- 
 sinking. 
 
 Fig. 7 shows the style of countersink which 
 gives best results. A small hole Is first drilled be- 
 yond the depth of the point of the lathe center; it 
 is then countersunk on an angle of 60 degrees to 
 fit the lathe center. 
 
 w 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 1 
 
 A 
 
 w 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 F,o. 7 
 
 ln^i)ri>l)er ("entering
 
 South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Lilt ho Dogs 
 
 The common lathe dog i& used for driving round 
 or cylindrical pieces that are machined between 
 centers on the lathe. 
 
 The clamp lathe dog is used for the same pur- 
 pose as the common dog, but is more practical for 
 holding rectangular work. 
 
 Tiiriiiiig a Strcl Shaft 
 
 The illustration above shows a steel shaft being 
 machined on a lathe. The shaft is driven between 
 centers by a common lathe dog that is firmly at- 
 tached by a set screw, the tail of the dog enters 
 the slot in the face plate. 
 
 <'liimp I.atlie Doff 
 
 The names of a few schools using South Bend Lathes will be found on the outside cover.
 
 South Bexd Lathe Works, South Bekd, I?i-diaka 
 
 Patent Turning Tool 
 
 Illustration herewith shows a Patent Turning 
 Tool. Some mechanics prefer to use the Patent 
 Tools rather than the forged steel lathe tools. 
 
 9 10 11 12 
 
 Forged Steel Lathe Tools 
 
 Lett-hand Side Tool 7 
 
 Right-hand Side Tool S 
 
 Right-hand Bent Tool 9 
 
 Right-hand Diamond 10 
 
 Point n 
 
 Left-hand Diamond Point 12 
 Round Nose Tool 
 
 Cutting-off Tool 
 Threading Tool 
 Bent Threading Tool 
 Roughing Tool 
 Boring Tool 
 Inside Threading Tool 
 
 Forged Steel Lathe Tools 
 
 The twelve lathe tools illustrated have been 
 selected as the most practical set of forged tools 
 for general all-round work on the lathe. These 
 tools are made both in carbon and the high speed 
 steels. The size of the tools vary to suit the differ- 
 ent size lathes. 
 
 Lathe Tools 
 
 Tlie drawings on page 11 show the application 
 of the above twelve lathe tools. It is not necessary 
 to use forged steel lathe tools, as the patent lathe 
 tool shown herewith may be applied in the same 
 
 way. 
 
 The arrow shows the direction of the feed of 
 the tool. In some cases the tool may be fed to ad- 
 vantage in two directions. For example, in draw- 
 ing No. 1, the arrow shows the tool feeding out 
 toward the periphery. This tool may also be fed in 
 toward the center. Again, in drawing No. 11, the 
 boring tool is feeding to the left. This tool may 
 also take a cut in feeding to the right. 
 
 Patent Lathe Tools 
 
 There are several lines of excellent patent lathe 
 tools on the market for turning, boring, thread cut- 
 ting, knurling, etc.
 
 ^tF 
 
 ^ 
 
 "lon^^ 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 SOUTH BEND LATHE WORKS.
 
 South B e .n d Lathe Works, South B e is- d, I >- d i a x a 
 
 The Position of tUittiug Edge of Tool 
 
 In setting a tool for cutting threads, turning 
 taper, or boring, the height of the cutting edge of 
 the tool should be in a line with the axis or point of 
 the lathe center. 
 
 The position of the cutting edge of a turning tool 
 for machining metal is quite important. In most 
 
 work, we fi n d 
 that about 5 de- 
 grees above the 
 center gives best 
 results. (See 
 Fig. 12.) The 
 position of the 
 tool also de- 
 pends upon its 
 clearance and 
 rake, and upon the material to be cut as: cast 
 iron, soft steel, or tool steel, etc. A little practice 
 will enable operator to learn the proper height on 
 different jobs. 
 
 Care should be taken that the cutting edge of 
 the tool does not extend too far from the tool post, 
 especially on a heavy cut, because the nearer the 
 tool post is to the work, the more firmly the tool 
 can be held. 
 
 The surface scale on a piece of cast iron is 
 often very hard and sometimes will ruin the cut- 
 ting point of the tool. For this reason the first or 
 roughing cut should be deep enough to get under 
 
 the scale. The scale must also be remembered 
 when turning a piece of steel, as some kinds of 
 steel contain a scale that will quickly dull the cut- 
 ting edge of the turning tool. 
 
 Grinding the Tool 
 
 The efficiency of the cutting edge of a tool de- 
 pends a great deal upon the way it is ground or 
 sharpened. The tool should have plenty of clear- 
 ance, a good rake and a clean cutting edge. The 
 cutting edge of the tool is changed somewhat for 
 various metals. After grinding a tool it would be 
 well to dress up the cutting edge by hand with a 
 small oil stone. This will improve its wearing 
 qualities. 
 
 Direction of Feed With a .Toh on C'.entor.s 
 
 In machining a job on centers in the lathe, the 
 feed of the tool should always be, when possible, 
 in the direction of the head spindle. The reason 
 is obvious: WTien the carriage is feeding toward 
 the head spindle and the tool taking a heavy chip, 
 the pressure is on the head center which revolves 
 with the work. Should the tool when taking a 
 heavy chip feed toward the tail stock, then the 
 pressure is on the tail center, which is station- 
 ary, and is, therefore, liable to heat unless oiled 
 frequently.
 
 S o \; T H Bend Lathe W o b k s, Sou t h B e n i>, Indiana 
 
 Kaciiiii KikI i>( Sli;il't 
 
 When a shaft is being machined on centers, if 
 accurate work is to be done, the ends of shaft must 
 be faced so that they will ride on the centers even- 
 ly, A side tool is usually used to do the facins. 
 (See Fig. 11.) 
 
 In facing with a side tool it may be necessary 
 to face into the countersink hole. On reaching 
 the edge of the countersink, tail center may be 
 
 withdrawn slight- 
 ly. This enables 
 I the side tool to 
 Mace the end clean. 
 When shaft is 
 faced ready for 
 general machin- 
 ing, place a droii 
 of oil on the tail stock center, also a drop in the 
 countersunk hole of .shaft. Adjust the tail stock 
 center so that the shaft has a slight play on the 
 centers (it must not turn bard on the centers), 
 then fasten the tail stock spindle by the binding 
 clamp. Keep oil on the tail center. 
 
 When we refer to Lathe Book, we mean 
 book entitled "How to Run a Lathe." 
 
 (] 
 
 Turniii;^ to a Klimilcler 
 
 The above illustrations Figure "A" and Figure 
 "B," show the advantage of using a Cutting-Off 
 Tool in locating the shoulder on a turned shaft. 
 Start the Cutting-Off Tool about 1/32" from the 
 finished line of the shoulder and feed in until you 
 reach a diameter about 1/32" larger than the fin- 
 ish size, then rough the stock off with a diamond 
 point tool and finish the face of shoulder with a 
 side tool. 
 
 For illustration, description and principal 
 dimensions of South Bend Lathes, see pages 
 62 and 63 of this book.
 
 SoriH Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 1. Part No. 35. Drawing No. 135. 
 
 1. CLEANIXG THE CASTING. All sand, gates 
 and sprues should be removed from the casting, by 
 chipping, grinding and filing. 
 
 2. CENTERING. To locate the centers, follow 
 instructions shown on pages 6, 7 and S. 
 
 3. DRIVING. Attach a common lathe dog to 
 the solid end of Rest Bracket. Place the bracket 
 on centers, put a couple drops of oil on the tail 
 center point, adjust the tail center so that the 
 bracket has slight play on centers — not too loose; 
 then clamp tail spindle firmly. 
 
 4. CUTTING SPEED. The material, being cast 
 iron, the proper cutting speed for ,Job No. 1 is 
 SS-feet per minute. This being the first job, per- 
 haps it would be better not to run over 40-feet per 
 minute. Rule for Cutting Speed of Metals will be 
 found in Section 44 of book entitled "How to Run 
 a Lathe." (See page 64.) 
 
 5. HEIGHT OF TOOL. For the position of the 
 cutting edge of tool, see explanation page 12. 
 
 6. FACING THE ENDS. To face the ends of 
 bracket, see illustration Figure "R," page 56. This 
 operation is further described on page 13, "Facing 
 End of Shaft." After the end is faced true, re- 
 move the common dog, and attach a Clamp Dog 
 to the cored end of bracket, (see drawing Figure 
 "O," page 56) and face the solid end of shaft. 
 
 7. TURNING. Let the clamp dog remain at- 
 tached to the cored end of bracket, and place the 
 job on lathe centers. Select a diamond point 
 turning tool, and take a roughing chip (see illus- 
 tration Figure "O," page 56) the full length of the 
 bracket. Always adjust the depth of the roughing 
 cut so the cutting edge of tool will be underneath 
 the scale. 
 
 8. STRAIGHT TURNING. After the first, or 
 roughing chip has been taken, caliper the turned 
 part at both ends, to see that the piece is machined 
 straight or parallel. If there is any tendency to 
 turn taper, adjust the tail stock center in the prop- 
 er direction. For straight and taper turning, see 
 Section 46 of book "How to Run a Lathe." 
 
 9. FINISHING. The machined part of this 
 bracket is to be turned and finished to %" diame- 
 ter, in order to pass through a %" hole in the 
 grinder rest bracket "L," shown on page 19; this 
 may be seen better in half-tone on page 2. It is, 
 therefore, better to defer finishing chip until the 
 holes in all tour rest brackets have been bored. 
 Leave diameter of the turned part of the rest 
 bracket about 1/32" over size, so when the holes 
 in all rest brackets are bored, the shanks may be 
 turned to the proper size, in order to make a gofid 
 fit in the holes. 
 
 14
 
 Job No. 2. Part No. 37. Drawing No. 137 
 
 1. JIachine Job Xo. 2 in the same way as Job 
 No. 1, as the instructions of Job Xo. 1 will apply in 
 every way to Job Xo. 2; the only difference being 
 the shaft or shank of Job Xo. 2 is the longer. 
 
 2. FIXISHIXG. After taking the first or 
 roughing chip on the diameter of shank, care 
 should be taken to see that it is being turned 
 parallel. If the cutting tool is at all dull, it should 
 be shai'pened, and the cutting edge rubbed with an 
 oil stone, by hand. For calipering the turned part, 
 an ordinary spring caliper may be used, but a mi- 
 crometer caliper is recommended, for it immedi- 
 ately shows the operator how much material is 
 left over the finished dimensions. 
 
 Drilling and Tapping Brackets 
 
 3. DRILLING. We shall here describe the 
 method of drilling and tapping the cored end of the 
 four brackets for the %" set screws, but we shall 
 have to postpone this operation until the three 
 brackets are turned and bored complete. This 
 drilling must be the last operation, for the reason 
 it removes the center. 
 
 To drill the %" hole in the end of bracket. 
 
 l)lace the bracket in a Chuck, (see Figure "D"). 
 The machined part of this bracket should run true 
 when the chuck revolves. Adjust the jaws of the 
 chuck accordingly, until the bracket does run true. 
 Place a Standard Drill Chuck in the tail stock of 
 the lathe. With a ,=,;" Drill in the chuck, start the 
 lathe and drill the hole. 
 
 4. TAPPI.NG. Remove the bracket from the 
 chuck, and fasten it upright in a vise. Select a 
 %", 16-thread. right hand V. S. Standard Taper 
 Tap. and with a hand tap wrench, tap the hole. 
 Be sure to keep the tap straight, or parallel to the 
 a.xis of the bracket. Use a few drops of oil on the 
 tap thread.. Remove the taper ta]) and follow with 
 a plug tap.
 
 South Bend Lathe Wokks, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 3. Part No. 33. Uiawing No. 133. 
 
 1. Machine Job Xo. 3 in tlie same manner as 
 Jobs Xo. 1 and Xo. 2, as the instructions appl.ving 
 to Jobs Xo. 1 and Xo, 2 will also apply to Job Xo. 3, 
 tor it is similar, except that the shank of shaft in 
 Job. Xo. 3 is longer than either one of the other 
 two. 
 
 2. When machining a job on centers, the tail 
 stock center should be oiled carefully. This cen- 
 ter has been hardened and tempered, so the ,1ob 
 revolving on this hard center, requires lubrication. 
 
 Boring the Brackets 
 
 3. BORIXG THE HOLE. We describe here- 
 with the method of boi'ing the %-inch hole in the 
 brackets of Jobs Xo. 1, Xo. 2 and Xo. 3. This hole 
 may be bored any time after the four brackets 
 are rough turned. 
 
 Place a drill pad in the tail stock spindle, and a 
 drill chuck in the head si)indle. Use a 47 64" drill 
 in the chuck. The bracket to be drilled should be 
 held in position as shown in drawing. Figure "Z" 
 herewith. Xote there is a small piece of %" 
 board between the bracket and the drill pad. The 
 reason is so that when the drill passes through the 
 bracket, it will finish in the wood, not in the 
 drill pad. 
 
 The drill should revolve slowly. Operate the 
 feed by hand wheel of tail stock, and feed slowly, 
 especially when the drill reaches within jVi" of the 
 end of the hole. It is not necessary to hold the 
 
 bracket by hand while being drilled, but to let the 
 end of bracket rest on top of compound rest, as 
 shown in drawing Figure "Z." 
 
 When the 47/64" hole is drilled in all four 
 brackets, remove the drill and replace it with a 
 %" Standard Reamer. The reaming operation is 
 almost similar to that of the drilling, except that 
 the reamer should revolve slower and the work 
 should be fed to the reamer more slowly than in 
 drilling. 
 
 Another, but a more difficult way to do this job, 
 would be to clamp the bracket to the face plate, 
 and machine with a boring tool. 
 
 B 
 
 f 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 J 
 
 
 
 ■ crV 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 -^,<%r 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 ^ ,^ 
 
 
 ■c^ 
 
 
 TT 
 
 llf 
 
 
 k>^v'~^- 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 -^ 1 f 
 
 \ 
 
 
 — - 
 
 — Is 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 ^ 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 
 L 
 
 
 
 ^~' 
 
 n^.z
 
 South Be>d Lathe Wobks, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 4. Part Xo. 31. Drawing No. 134. 
 
 1 . CENTERING. To locate the centers on 
 Job No. 4. see drawing Figure "^M," page 6. 
 
 2. DRIVING. Owing to the construction of 
 the "T" Rest, we cannot drive it with either the 
 common lathe dog or the clamp dog, so it is neces- 
 sary to attach a stud to the face plate, as per 
 drawing herewith. This stud is simply a short 
 piece of steel, about %" diameter. 3" long, thread- 
 ed on one end for the distance of 2". By using 
 two standard nuts, this stud can be clamped firm- 
 ly to the face plate (an ordinary machine bolt, 
 V2 X 3", will serve). Note this stud should not ex- 
 tend any farther than the part of the casting which 
 it drives. The reason is so the revolving stud will 
 not interfere with the carriage of the lathe during 
 the turning operation. 
 
 3. FACING. The shaft end of the "T" Rest 
 only is to be faced. 
 
 4. TURNING. With the "T" Rest on centers, 
 place a diamond point tool in the tool post, and 
 take a light turning chip the entire length of the 
 round part or shaft of the "T" Rest. Caliper for 
 parallel turning. Then take a second chip, but do 
 not finish any closer than 1/32" to the %" dimen- 
 sion. becauBe shaft of this "T" Rest should not be 
 
 finished until the hole is bored in the "T" Rest 
 Bracket, Part No. 3.5, or Job No. 1. 
 
 There are several dimensions shown in "T" 
 Rest Bracket, .lob No. 4. that are not required for 
 machining. Most of these dimensions are to be 
 followed only for making the pattern for the "T" 
 Rest. 
 
 Tie with Belt Laco 
 
 When driving a job on centers by a stud bolted 
 to the face plate instead of a common lathe dog, 
 the job should be tied to this stud with a piece of 
 belt lacing. This is es|)ecially true when filing or 
 polishing a piece that is revolving at a high speed 
 on centers. 
 
 A good lathe hand can run any kind of a machine.
 
 ■Ij 
 
 Jch No. 4.. 
 
 Maleri at - Cast Iron 
 No. Pieces Required' 
 
 16 '8 
 
 5 
 3? 
 
 32 
 
 32 
 
 60 
 
 Tf- 
 
 "^s 
 
 3 
 
 DRfkwiNe «o /J-4. p»nT No. 34. 
 
 GRINDER T REST 
 
 Scale WorK to figures. 
 
 SOUTH BCND LATHE W0T>H3. |
 
 South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 5. Part Xo. 'Mi. Driiwine No. 136. 
 
 1. CENTERING. To center Job No. .5. follow 
 instructions shown in Job No. 4. 
 
 2. DRIVING. For driving Job No. 5, follow in- 
 structions described in Job No. 4. 
 
 It will be noticed in Jobs No. 4 and No. 5, they 
 are faced only on the shaft end. 
 
 Do not take a finishing cut on Job No. 5, but 
 allow 1 '31'" stock for finishing at a later cut, after 
 bracket in which angle rest fits is bored. 
 
 Turning A Diameter to Fit A Machined Hole or Gau^e 
 
 In turning a round shaft to fit a cylinder or hole, 
 we should first learn what kind of a fit is required. 
 There is a tight, driving fit, such as is required for 
 an arbor. There is a pressing fit, such as is re- 
 quii-ed for an inside flange on a grinder spindle, 
 and there is a loose fit, which is the one we require 
 on .iobs No. 1. No. 2, No. 3, No. 4 and No. 5. 
 
 We cannot fit the round end or shank of the 
 bracket to the hole in the rests. Jobs No. 1, No. 2 
 and No. .3, until these holes have been machined. 
 We therefore leave the round part or shank of the 
 bracket about 1/32" larger in diameter, until we 
 are ready to make the fit. 
 
 When the holes are bored, caliper the e.xact 
 diameter of the hole. Or, better still, select an 
 arbor which will fit the round hole. Then caliper 
 the arbor at a point where it fits the hole. This 
 will be the exact size of the shanks of the Angle 
 Rest, T Rest and Bi'ackets. 
 
 When ready to make the fit, place the job on 
 centers and take a light chip, not extending over 
 Vi" from the end of bracket. Caliper the reduced 
 diameter carefully, and also try it in the hole for 
 which it is to be fitted. If you can enter the shaft 
 ,',/' into the hole, by pressure, then you can finish 
 the chip. 
 
 Change the belt, so the spindle will run at high- 
 est speed, put a couple drops of oil on the tail 
 center, and with a file, smooth the end of the 
 bracket for a distance of about 1". Then remove 
 the bracket from centers, and try it in the hole. 
 It should be a nice, twisting fit, not too loose, but 
 just so it will slip through nicely without shaking. 
 
 Care must be taken to see that the hole into 
 which the bracket fits is true. We assume, of 
 course, this has been finished with a reamer. If so, 
 it is finished to size, without any burrs or rough 
 edges.
 
 
 
 — 1 
 
 1" J 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 " 
 
 \^ 
 
 '•^ 
 
 5" 
 
 ,3" 
 
 1? 
 
 t 
 
 ] 1" 
 
 
 / 
 1 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 .^J- 
 
 '4 
 
 '■ ,/' 
 
 
 
 
 / 
 
 
 ^^^"t 
 
 \ 
 
 3 
 
 32 
 
 3" 
 
 3" 
 3Z 
 
 
 
 3" 
 
 
 3'; 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 8' 16 
 
 
 
 
 Joh No. S. 
 
 Materi a/ -Casf Iron 
 
 No Pieces ReijujfecJ ■ 
 
 DRAWItJS No 136 PART rsio 3S 
 
 GRII^DER nNGl-E REST 
 
 Sca/e Wark To fiyur, 
 
 SOUTH BENO LnTHE WORKS.
 
 South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiaxa 
 
 Job No. 6. Part No. 31. Drawing Xo. 131. 
 
 1. MATERIAL. Serine a piece of mild steel, 
 about IV4" diameter, 131/2" long, and machine so 
 that it will finish to the dimensions indicated in 
 drawing. 
 
 Before centering, see that the shaft is straight. 
 If it is bent or twisted in any way, straighten it. 
 After you have located the center marks, place the 
 shaft on centers and revolve it by hand. WTien it 
 is running as nearly true as possible, then drill 
 center holes. 
 
 2. CENTERING. For centering, follow instruc- 
 tions in Job No. 1. except that in centering a piece 
 of steel, oil should be used on the center drill. 
 
 3. TURNING. Select a common dog of suit- 
 able size. Face both ends of shaft, then with a 
 diamond point tool take a rough turning cut on 
 the diameter, allowing the tool to cut within about 
 3" of the dog. Then transpose the dog and shaft, 
 run the tool back, and complete the roughing cut 
 on the opposite end. 
 
 In turning a long shaft, it is very necessary 
 that the machined or turned part is parallel. This 
 should be tested carefully, and it any taper is indi- 
 cated, tail .stock should be adjusted and a light 
 chip taken, until the |iiece is exactly parallel. 
 
 It is necessary that the student finish .Job No. 6 
 exactly to the dimensions shown in drawing so 
 he may become familiar in working accurately to 
 dimensions. 
 
 Job No. 6 is now machined in the rough, and is 
 to be further machined as the grinder spindle, as 
 shown in Jobs No. 7, No. 8 and No. 9. Note the 
 depth of the centers shown in drawing, and see 
 that your centers conform to these dimensions. 
 
 In turning a piece of steel, it will be noticed 
 that the chijjs curl more, and that the tool becomes 
 heated more, than in turning cast iron; therefore, 
 a little slower speed should be used, and the turn- 
 ing tool should be watched more carefully, to see 
 that it does not dull. 
 
 Before machining a piece on centers in the 
 lathe, see that the centers line up, as per cut here- 
 with. B'or further description see Section -16 of 
 Lathe Book.
 
 1 
 
 „ 3" 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 — 
 
 
 
 
 'J 8 
 
 
 
 
 
 3" 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 iZ 
 
 ± 
 
 . 
 
 \ 
 
 - 60° H 
 
 
 - 
 
 <^ 
 
 '32 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3" 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 [32 
 
 |5' 
 
 
 
 
 5' 
 
 
 '32 
 
 
 
 
 32 
 
 
 Job No. 6 
 
 Maferial - Mild Steel. 
 
 
 Df^AWIHa A/o. /3 / \P/IRT No. 31 
 
 SPINDLE 
 
 Scale Work to fiquret 
 
 No Piecfs Required - 1 
 
 SOUTH BEND L»TH£ W0HK3
 
 South B e x d Lathe Works, South Ben d, I n » i a x a 
 
 Job No. 7. Part Xo. 31. Drawing No. 1.31-A. 
 
 1. MATERIAL. For Job Xo. 7 use the shaft 
 that has been machined in Job. No. 6. 
 
 Take a turning chip that will reduce the diame- 
 ter within :,'^" over size, the entire length of spin- 
 dle. The large diameter of this spindle is to be 
 fitted to spindle pulley, but we cannot do this 
 fitting until the spindle pulley is machined. 
 
 2. LOCATING THE SHOULDERS. When we 
 reduce a shaft in diameter at one or more places, 
 we use a cutting-off tool to locate the shoulder. 
 (See illustration Figure "T," page .515.) Fasten the 
 cutting-off tool in the tool post. Be sure to see 
 that the tool has clearance on both sides. Move 
 the cutting-off tool until the farther side is 3%" 
 from the end of shaft, that is, within ,',." of the 
 finished length. Now start the lathe, and with a 
 spring caliper in the right hand, and left hand 
 feeding the cutting-off tool forward, take a light 
 chip, using oil on the cutting edge of the tool. 
 Feed carefully until the proper diameter is reached, 
 which will be indicated by the caliper. This diame- 
 ter should be about j-.j" larger than the finished 
 size. Then withdraw the tool, transpose the 
 driving dog and shaft, and repeat the shoulder op- 
 eration on the other end of shaft. Locate the two 
 inside shoulders in the same manner. 
 
 3. TURNING. With a Turning Tool, reduce 
 each end of the shaft to about 1/64" larger in di- 
 
 ameter than the dimensions called for. Then take 
 a chip over the center of the grinder shaft, re- 
 ducing the diameter to about 1/32" larger than the 
 drawing calls for. 
 
 4. TURNING FOR THREAD, WHEEL, AND 
 FLANGE DIAMETER. Note that the length of 
 thread is IVo" from either end of spindle, but 
 that the %" diameter extends 2,',;" from the end. 
 This dimension includes the length of thread, 
 plus thickness of emery wheel and outside fiange. 
 The diameters .752" for press fit are to accommo- 
 date the inside fianges, which should fit fairly tight 
 on the shoulder. This diameter we cannot ma- 
 chine to a finish until inside flanges are bored. 
 (See Job No. 12, page 37.) The two bearings are 
 1" in diameter and 2/1." long. These can be fin- 
 ished to size at any time. The 1%" diameter is 
 for the pulley. This diameter should not be fin- 
 ished until the pulley has been bored. ( See Pulley 
 Job No. 10. page 32.1 
 
 5. As we cannot finish the press fit for the 
 inside flanges, nor the diameter where pulley fits, 
 until the flanges and pulley are machined, we 
 can go ahead with the thread cutting. It the 
 student has had no experience in thread cutting, 
 we suggest that the instructor secure a number of 
 pieces of %" shafting, about 6" long, and have 
 each student practice cutting short threads on 
 one of the shafts before he attempts cutting the 
 thread on spindle. 
 
 26
 
 3" 
 
 ■ i" I 
 .1" ^ Drill 52 ' 8 deep. 
 
 .752 -^ 
 
 1 3 1" 
 
 ^or press fit 
 
 16 
 
 2fe 
 
 •r 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 '16 
 
 Job No 7 
 
 Material -Mild Steel. 
 No Pieces Rei^uireel - 1 
 
 DRfimiie No.I3I-m\pmrt no. 31 
 
 SPINDLE. 
 
 Scale WorH to figures. 
 
 SOUTH BEND LATHE WORKS.
 
 South Bekd Lathe Works. South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. S. Part Xo. 81. DrawiriQ No. l.ll-B. 
 
 1. MATERIAI.. For Job Xo. S we use the 
 shaft machined in ,Iolj Xo. 7. Cut a %" x 10 U. S. 
 Standard Thread, right hand, on one end. 
 
 a. GEARIXG LATHE. For thread cutting see 
 Sections 38 and 39 of Lathe Book for selecting 
 gears to secure the desired pitch. Also see Rule. 
 Section 45, of Lathe Book: "Gearing Any Engine 
 Lathe for Screw Cutting." 
 
 3. SETTLXG THE THREAD TOOL. For set- 
 ting the thread tool, see Section 40 and 41 of Lathe 
 Book. We recommend a tool similar to the Patent 
 Threading Tool, shown in Section 2S of Lathe 
 Book. 
 
 4. LEXGTH OF THREAD. The length of 
 thread to be cut, as shown in drawing, is 1%". 
 Measure this distance from the end of the shaft, 
 and make a prick punch mark. Then, with a i^" 
 drill, drill a hole Vg" deep, using this prick punch 
 mark as a center. Attach a common lathe dog to 
 the grinder spindle, and place it on the centers. 
 Be sure to put oil on your tail center, and clamp 
 the tail spindle. Xow set the threading tool, with 
 the point opposite center of the hole you have ,1ust 
 drilled, where the thread terminates. Then with 
 a center gauge, line the tool up properly as in 
 Section 41 of Lathe Book, drawing Figure 1.^. 
 The height of the cutting edge of the threading 
 tool should be even with the axis or point of the 
 
 lathe center. Fasten the thread-cutting stop to 
 the saddle, as explained in Section 40 of Lathe 
 Book. Clamp the half nuts on the lead screw, re- 
 verse the countershaft. This will run the carriage 
 back until the thread cutting tool reaches about 
 Vs" beyond the end of the grinder spindle. 
 
 5. FIRST CHIP. Before taking the first chip, 
 study Section 42 of Lathe Book. See that the lathe 
 dog is fastened securely to the grinder spindle, 
 and that the threading tool is fastened; then pro- 
 ceed with the first chip, allowing the tool to Just 
 merely scratch the sjundle. Stop the lathe before 
 the tool reaches the hole, showing the end of cut. 
 This hole was drilled so as to allow the tool to fin- 
 ish the end of each chip. Then finish the chip by 
 turning the spindle cone slowly forward, by pull- 
 ing on the belt by hand. 
 
 6. In removing a threaded piece from the lathe 
 for testing the thread, never detach the dog 
 from this piece. Do not even change the position 
 of the dog. Always mark the slot in the face plate 
 in which the dog was iilaced, while the thread is 
 being cut. Replace the tail of the dog in the same 
 slot, when you put the job back on centers to re- 
 new the thread cutting. For testing thread, see 
 instructions in .loh 9.
 
 3" 
 138 
 
 3'- 10 Thread) H H US S 
 4 
 for Caye Hardened Hexafon hlui Nc 45 
 
 Job No. 8 
 
 Matarial - Mild Steel. 
 
 No. Pieces Heijutrad - I 
 
 DRflWINa N0.I3I-B PART No. 31 
 
 SPINDLE 
 
 Scale iNorK to figures 
 
 SOUTH BEND LflTHE WOHXS.
 
 South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job Xo. 9. Part No. 31. Drawind No. 131-G. 
 
 1. ilATERIAL. For Job No. 9 we use the 
 spindle machined in Job No. S. We are to cut a 
 %"xlO U. S. Standard Thread, left hand, on the 
 other end of spindle. For cutting this thread, we 
 use the same arrangement of gearing as we did for 
 cutting the thread in Job No. 8. 
 
 •2. CUTTING LEFT HAND THREAD. Do 
 not let the screw of the dog come in contact with 
 the thread, but select an old nut %" x 10" right 
 hand thread. With a hand hack saw, split one 
 side of the nut through into the hole, and half way 
 into the other side. Then place this nut on the 
 threaded end of shaft and fasten securely with a 
 clamp dog. In this manner we can drive the 
 threaded shaft without injuring the thread. 
 
 3. THREAD TOOL. Use the same thread tool 
 and set in the same manner as vou did in Job 
 No. 8. 
 
 4. LENGTH OF THREAD. Drill a hole about 
 tn" in diameter, and about ,',(" deep, 1%" from the 
 end of the spindle. This hole will be the starting 
 point of each chip in cutting the left hand thread. 
 Adjust the reverse lever in the head stock, so that 
 when the split nut is clamped on the lead screw 
 and the shipper rod is thrown forward toward the 
 head end of the lathe, the spindle cone of lathe 
 will revolve, the top of the cone rotating in the 
 
 direction of the operator, 
 feed from left to right. 
 
 Then the carriage should 
 
 5. CUTTING THE THREAD. Set your thread 
 tool and use the adjustable stop exactly as you did 
 in Job No. 8, and proceed with the first chip. The 
 carriage will now move to the right instead of the 
 left, and when the thread tool reaches a point at 
 least Vg" beyond the end of spindle, reverse the 
 shipper rod. This will reverse the direction of 
 travel of the carriage until the thread tool reaches 
 the hole or starting point. Then arrange for depth 
 of second chip. Start in carefully, taking a light 
 chip. Continue this operation until the thread is 
 finished. Use plenty of oil on the thread tool: 
 lard oil is preferred. 
 
 (i. TESTING THE THREAD. Use the nut in- 
 tended for the threaded part as a gauge. When 
 you think the thread about finished, remove the 
 spindle from centers, and try the nut on thread. 
 Do not strain the thread, the nut should go on half 
 of its depth with very little pressure. Examine the 
 thread after you remove the nut. to see if the 
 thread has a perfect bearing. 
 
 When the thread is cut on both ends of the 
 spindle, chamfer off the ends as shown in drawing.
 
 (35 
 
 -1-JO Threads L.H U.SS. 
 A- 
 
 for Case Hardened Hexagon Nut No. 46. 
 
 Dr.ll g 
 
 for Set Scren Ho 48. 
 
 Job No. 9 
 
 Material - Mild Steel. 
 
 No. Pieces Required - I 
 
 DnnwiNG N0.131-C PaHT No. 31 
 
 SPIK/DLC 
 
 Scale WorK to figures. 
 
 SOUTH BEND LBTHE iVOnKS.
 
 South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 10. Part No. 32. Drawing No. 132. 
 
 1. JOB. A cast iron pulley is to be iiiacliined 
 to the dimensions as sliown on drawing. 
 
 2. CHUCKING OPERATION. Attach a 6", 
 3-jaw Universal Geared Scroll Chuck to the spin- 
 dle nose of lathe, and fasten the casting in the 
 chuck. (See explanation drawing Fig. K, page 58.) 
 
 S. FACI.VG. ITse a round nose tool, and face 
 the end of pulley to the depth of about ,',;" below 
 scale. 
 
 4. CENTERING. Place a centering tool in 
 the tool post, and locate the center of the pulley, 
 adjusting the tool so that it is ajiproximately at the 
 center. Take a light chip, moving the tool so that 
 when it begins to cut, it will show the exact cen- 
 ter, and will machine a countersunk hole about %" 
 deep. ( See drawing. Section 7S, page aS, Lathe 
 Book.) The hole in this pulley could have been 
 cored but we left the casting solid, for practice. 
 
 5. DRILLING. Use a 1" Straight Shank Twist 
 Drill, held by a drill chuck in tail s|iindle. Drill a 
 hole through the pulley, feeding by hand wheel of 
 tailstock. 
 
 6. BORING. With a boring tool, take a chip 
 about 1/32" through the pulley, or deep enough to 
 true up the hole. Follow with another finishing 
 chip about 1/64" deep. Then follow with a ream- 
 er, reaming the hole to size. It should be borne 
 
 in mind that this pulley is to lit the spindle. I See 
 Job No. 9. 1 
 
 7. FINISH ON ARBOR. Remove the pulley 
 from the chuck, and press it on to a I'-s" arbor: the 
 arbor entering the hole at the machined end of 
 pulley. Place a drop of oil or grease on the arbor, 
 and spread it thoroughly with the hand, so when 
 the pulley is machined, the arbor may be pressed 
 out easily. Never place a steel arbor into a cast 
 iron piece, unless either the hole or the arbor has 
 been oiled slightly, because if it has not been lu- 
 bricated, the pulley is liable to cut when driving it 
 off the arbor. 
 
 8. Attach a dog and place the job on centers. 
 ( See drawing Figure "V," page "iT, Pulley on Arbor.) 
 Take a roughing cut over the diameter of pulley, 
 and face up both ends to the proper dimensions. 
 
 9. TURNING TAPER. Set the tailstock off 
 center, to get the required taper or crown of pul- 
 ley. (See Section 46 of Lathe Book.) After re- 
 quired taper is found, take a chip off of one end. 
 Then remove the dog, and place it on the opposite 
 end of the arbor. Place the job back on cen- 
 ters, and take a chip on this end. Repeat the oper- 
 ation until the pulley is machined to the proper 
 dimensions.
 
 Tap drill ,j 
 
 Tap g - 16 Threads 
 
 for Headhi3 Set Scren 
 
 Job No 10 
 Material - C aaf Iron. 
 No Pieces Hetfuired - J 
 
 DRflVVII^i; No /3Z\ P»FIT No 3Z 
 
 SPINDLE PULLEY 
 
 Scale Worn to tiqures. 
 
 SOUTH BEt^D LATHE WOnriS
 
 South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 11. Part No. .39. Drawing No. 139. 
 
 1 . Mount a 6", 3-jaw Universal Geared Scroll 
 Chuck on the lathe. Fasten the flange casting in 
 chuck, gripping it Ijy the small shoulder. (See il- 
 lustration Figure "S," page 57.) Be sure to see 
 that the flange runs true, not only on the outside 
 diameter, but the hole should also run true. If 
 the hole is not concentric with the outside diame- 
 ter of the flange, then measure the amount of stock 
 to be removed from hole, and the amount of stock 
 fi-om the outside diameter of the flange, and adjust 
 the chuck so that both the hole and outside diame- 
 ter can be machined true in the same chucking. 
 
 When the flange runs true in the chuck, with a 
 round nose tool, take a roughing chip on face of 
 flange; then a finishing chip. Then a slight rough- 
 ing chip on large diameter of flange, and a finish- 
 ing chip. Adjust round nose tool and take a recess- 
 ing chip on face of flange. (See Figure "S," page 
 57, Tool "B.") Place a boring tool in the tool post 
 (see Tool "C") raid take a roughing chip through 
 hole; then a finishing chip, until within 1/64" of 
 size. Then finish with a %" Standard Reamer. 
 
 2. TURNING FLANGE ON ARBOR. Remove 
 flange from the chuck, and press it tightly on a %" 
 
 arbor. Attach a dog to the arbor, and place the 
 job on centers. Set the compound rest on an angle 
 of IJi-degrees. (See illustration Figure "H," page 
 57.) Use a tool having a very small round nose, 
 and take a roughing chip on the angle part of 
 flange; then a roughing chip on the diameter of 
 flange and hub; then a finishing chip on both 
 flange and hub. With a side tool, face the small 
 hub and inside of flange. 
 
 :$. FILING AND POLISHING. Allow the job 
 to remain on centers, and release the tail stock 
 center slightly, so the arbor will run perfectly 
 free. Put a drop of oil on the tail center point. 
 Run the lathe spindle at next to the highest speed, 
 and with a mill file, smooth up carefully the out- 
 side diameter, the angle surface, and the small hub 
 of flange. You may round the corners slightly, 
 but not the corner of the large diameter of the 
 face of flange. 
 
 To polish a piece of cast iron in the lathe, take 
 a strip of emery cloth about the width of a file, put 
 a few drops of oil on the cloth. Then holding the 
 cloth against the file, polish the flange while it is 
 revolving. Keep plenty of oil on the emery cloth. 
 This will produce a fine, polished surface, and the 
 oil will prevent rusting. 
 
 34
 
 Job No 11 
 Material - Cast Iron 
 No Pieces Required 
 
 OUTSIDE F LUNGE. 
 
 Scale ^.Worh to figures 
 
 SOUTH BEND LHTHEl WORKS.
 
 South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 12. Part No. :|S. Drawing No. 138. 
 
 For machining Job No. 12 follow instructions 
 given in Job No. 11. except that the flange angle on 
 Job No. 12 is 10 degrees, while Job No. 11 was 13 
 degrees. Also note that Job No. 12 has a grooved 
 hub, while the hul) on .lob No. 11 was plain. 
 
 When the flange has been machined and is still 
 on arbor, with a t\" round nose tool, machine a 
 groove ts" wide and about 3^2" deep, in the center 
 of hub, as shown in drawing. The object of this 
 groove is to prevent the oil from the bearings from 
 running up on the flange, while the emery wheel 
 is in motion. File and iiolish the flange as de- 
 scribed in Job No. 1 1. 
 
 After a job has been bored in a chuck, and then 
 placed on an arbor, all sui-faces should again be 
 machined if an accurate job is I'equired. 
 
 The inside flanges for the grinder spindle 
 should fit up close to the shoulders of spindle, so 
 that when assembled on the spindle and placed in 
 the grinder head, there should be a slight play be- 
 tween the hubs of the two flanges and the outer 
 ends of bearings on head; that is, there should be 
 a visible slight end motion, not exceeding 1/64". 
 
 Removing a Job front Arbor 
 
 In removing a job from the arbor, or driving 
 the arbor out of the job, care should be taken to 
 see that the arbor is driven out of the job from the 
 small end, as one end of all arbors or mandrels is 
 smaller than the other end. The size of the man- 
 drel is usually marked on the large end. 
 
 In driving a mandrel into or out of a pulley, 
 be careful not to batter or jamb the end of the 
 arbor, because if the center 
 hole or outside diameter of 
 the arbor is battered, then 
 the arbor will not run true, 
 and if the arbor does not run 
 absohitely true, you cannot 
 machine an accurate job on 
 it. A babbitt hammer or a 
 wooden mallet would best 
 serve as a driver. A small 
 cast iron anvil, similar to that 
 shown in Figure "W" here- 
 with, would make an excel- 
 lent anvil for arbor work, and 
 it will also be found useful 
 for other work in the ma- 
 chine sho]). 
 
 36
 
 Job Nc. 12. 
 Materia/ ~ C ast Iron 
 /Vo. Pieces Rrifuirei 
 
 INSIDE FLANGE 
 
 Scale Work to figures. 
 
 SOUTH BENU L»TMC YVORKS.
 
 SofTH BExn Lathe Works. South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 13. Part Xo. 30. Drawinq No. 130. 
 
 1 . Drawings on page 39 show the grinder head 
 caps. 
 
 2. Clean the casting and remove all sand and 
 grit. 
 
 3. The six anchor holes "B" should be drilled 
 according to drawing, so that when the babbitt is 
 poured, it enters these holes, and there forms an 
 anchor to hold the babbitt in the cap. Drill the 
 six anchor holes in each cap. also six similar 
 anchor holes for holding the babbitt for each bear- 
 ing in the grinder head. 
 
 4. Locate the position of the cap screw holes 
 for attaching caps to grinder head. Note that the 
 centers of these holes are 2Vs" apart. Chalk the 
 surface where the holes are 
 
 to be drilled. Rub this 
 chalked surface with the 
 finger, and with the dividers 
 locate the centers of the boss 
 of each hole. Make a prick 
 punch mark at each center, 
 and scribe a %" circle. Make 
 six prick punch marks en the 
 circumference of each circle, 
 
 (see drawing Fig. "U"). Next make a deep center 
 punch mark on the center of each circle. The cen- 
 ter distance should be 2%". 
 
 ® 
 
 Fiq. U 
 
 5. Use a %" drill in the chuck in head spin- 
 dle, and a drill pad in the tail stock. Let the point 
 of the drill enter about i",;" in each circle. See if 
 the hole is going to be concentric with the circular 
 la.v-out. If it is not. then with a prick punch drive 
 the center of the hole in the proper direction in 
 order to be concentric. Remove a little more 
 stock with the drill, and test again. When the 
 drill hole is concentric with the lay-out, drill both 
 holes. Now with a counterbore, having a %" 
 pilot, remove j^" stock, so that the head of the 
 cap screw w-ill rest on a machined surface. 
 
 6. Locate the hole in the top of cap for oil 
 cup. This hole should be in about the center of 
 the boss. Use a 17/64" drill. 
 
 Do not tap the oil hole at this time, because it 
 is through this hole that the babbitt is poured. 
 After babbitt is poured, then redrill this hole, re- 
 moving the babbitt, and tap for oil cup. 
 
 7. Some of the holes drilled in grinder and 
 cap could perhaps be done to better advantage on 
 a drill press. Our instructions are to drill these 
 parts in the lathe, assuming that there is no drill 
 press in the shop equipment. 
 
 3S
 
 South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 11. Part No. 29. Drawins Xo. 129. 
 
 1. The drawing on page 41 shows three 
 views of the grinder head casting, also an en- 
 larged view of one of the boxes, or bearings. 
 
 2. Clean the casting thoroughly. Remove all 
 sand, gates and sprues, inside as well as outside. 
 
 3. To drill the necessary holes in the grinder 
 head, for lag screws to hold the grinder to the 
 bench, and holes for safety guards, make a jig of 
 wood, similar to that shown in drawing Figure 
 "P," page .56. This jig should be about 12" long. 
 Let it rest on two strips of wood, each about 2 feet 
 long, so they will rest on the front and rear of 
 lathe saddle. 
 
 4. The caps machined in Job Xo. 1.3 should 
 now be fitted to the grinder head. Chalk the top 
 of the grindei- head where the holes are to be 
 drilled for cap screws. Hold or clamp the cap 
 firmly to the head, and with a scratch-awl mark 
 through the holes in cap and locate the position of 
 the holes on grinder head. When one hole has 
 been located for each cap, remove the caps, lay out 
 these holes with six prick punch marks on the 
 circle, find the center of the circle, as per drawing 
 page 3S, and make a deep punch mark at this cen- 
 ter. Then mark the right hand cap and right hand 
 box with a prick i)unch, so you can replace cap on 
 
 its own bearing each time. Also make two center 
 ])unch marks on the front on the other cap and box. 
 
 5. Use a fj." drill. Drill only one hole in each 
 bearing. Tap the holes and fasten each cap with 
 one screw. Then with a %" drill, using the hole 
 in the cap as a jig, spot the other hole for each 
 cap in the grinder head, letting the point of the 
 drill enter the casting only about ,'„". Now re- 
 move both caps, and with a f.." drill, finish both 
 holes. Tap both holes and attach both caps. 
 
 (J. When the caps are attached, see that they 
 fit nicely on the grinder head. They should not 
 lap over, neither on the sides nor ends. If they 
 do, remove the lap with a file. 
 
 7. If more than one grinder at a time is being 
 made, number each cap and each bearing in serial, 
 so you can attach each cap to its own bearing. 
 
 8. Locate the position of holes through which 
 grinder is clamped to the bench, and drill them, 
 (see drawing Fig. P, page .5i5). The position of the 
 holes for safety guards can not be located until 
 grinder is complete and the emery wheels attached. 
 Then place the safety guards in position, so they 
 fit properly over the emery wheels, and mark 
 through the slots of the base.
 
 ENLffOaZD VIEW OF BE/tniNC BKBBITrCD
 
 South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 10. Part No. Special. 
 
 Job No. Ifi drawing shows the small parts that we 
 use in the babbitting jig, which is described in Job 
 Xo. 17. 
 
 Make lour shims of cardboard, -}r," thick. I See 
 drawing on opposite page.) One of these shims is 
 placed under each side of each cap to allow for 
 wear, because after two or three years, when the 
 spindle bearings wear, these shims are removed 
 and thinner shims are inserted to take up the 
 wear. The shims as shown do not indicate the 
 holes for the screws. This is because we first use 
 these shims as part of the babbitting jig, and 
 afterward we cut the hole for the screw and use 
 the shims in the grinder. 
 
 One of these shims shows an opening on one 
 side, through which the babbitt is poured, as e.x- 
 plained later. 
 
 The four cast iron collars shown are bored to 
 1" and faced on one end. They are also recessed 
 r,'^" deep, 1|',;" diameter. The object of this re- 
 cess is that when babbitt is jioured, it will fill into 
 this space, which will allow it to project g'j" be- 
 yond the bearing. 
 
 The 1" cold rolled shaft, shown in drawing is 
 what we call the babbitting bar. This shaft 
 should be straight and true. It should be 1" in 
 diameter, not .01)1" ovei- or .Oii2" less. 
 
 In placing this shaft in the babbitting jig, the 
 center of shaft should be about l/ti4" higher than 
 the top of the bearing of grinder head. The reason 
 is that the shim is ^:," thick, therefore when the 
 grinder spindle is fitted to the bearing, the center 
 or a.xis of the spindle will be in line with the cen- 
 ter of the shim. 
 
 Scraping the Boxes 
 
 After the bearings in grinder head have been 
 babbitted, the bearings of the spindle being finished, 
 place some red lead on the spindle bearings, and 
 put the spindle in the grinder head; revolving it 
 slowly by hand. This will show the high spots. 
 Then with a scraper, using a halt round file, 
 ground smooth and with a cutting edge, scrape 
 the high spots until the spindle has a thorough 
 bearing. 
 
 This scraping should be done before the grind- 
 er caps are babbitted. After the grinder caps are 
 babbitted, they should be tested and scraped in the 
 same manner. 
 
 In babbitting a large bearing, we usually paint 
 the babbitting shaft with graphite, in paste form, 
 but the bearings of this grinder are small, and 
 will not need a coat of graphite.
 
 Tap drill f^ ' Tap g • 16 Thds 
 for Headless Set Screw. 
 
 -Cast Iron 
 
 
 32 
 
 
 
 
 
 /■ 
 
 
 2, 
 
 
 -.1 _ . 
 
 7' 
 
 16 
 1 — r^ ■ 
 
 
 
 T 
 
 
 /pnll -; 
 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 L 
 
 
 Fibre Sf 
 
 32 
 
 16 
 
 32 
 
 h ^ 
 
 - 9 R 
 
 1 X 
 
 32 32 
 
 -Co/d fl£>//ei^ 5/fe/. 
 
 Joi No IS 
 
 Dnn\NING /Vo 206 PMRTNo Special 
 
 DETAILS OF BflBBlTTING JIG. 
 
 Scale Work to figures 
 
 SOUTH BENB LATHE WORKS-
 
 South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 17. Babbitting Jiq. 
 
 Make a wood frame, as shown on opposite 
 drawing Figure "X." Make it large enough so 
 that the grinder frame can be easily placed inside. 
 
 Place the grinder head in the wooden frame 
 and place babbitting shaft on the V ways. Shim 
 up under grinder head with cardboard shims "BB," 
 until the grinder bearings are concentric and paral- 
 lel to the babbitting shaft. The top of the grinder 
 bearings should be 1/G4" below the center of the 
 babbitting shaft. Now clamp the grinder head to 
 the wood frame. Measure again to see that the 
 bearing space of the grinder head is concentric 
 and parallel with the shaft at both ends. Remove 
 the shaft and place on it the four adjustable col- 
 lars, setting each collar as close up to the bear- 
 ings as possible. The dimensions are shown on 
 drawing. Now with a piece of wood, plug up the 
 four cap screw holes on grinder head. Place the 
 four cardboard shims on top of bearings, so they 
 will fit tight up against the shaft and inside both 
 collars. Fasten each shim to the wood plug with 
 a tack. With a piece of clay or putty, make a 
 ringed dam "E." as shown, between tlie ends of 
 bearings and collars. These dams are merely to 
 prevent the babbitt from running out of the mould. 
 
 If the babbitt has a tendency to run out of the 
 mould at any point, simply make a dam to prevent 
 it. .Make another dam "F" on the top of shim. 
 (See Figure "X" also Plan View. I This dam laps 
 
 over on to the shaft. It is through this dam, 
 through the hole "G" that the babbitt is poured to 
 fill the bottom bearing. 
 
 Before pouring the mould see that the babbitt 
 is hot, not red hot. but hot enough to singe or 
 scorch a pine stick, ilake a test by immersing the 
 stick into the molten babbitt. There are a num- 
 ber of small anchor holes in the bearings of the 
 mold, and if the metal is of the right temperature, 
 it will flow readily and fill every crevice and 
 anchor in the mould. If the babbitt does not fill 
 the mould perfectly, the babbitt was not hot 
 enough. In this case remove the babbitt and pour 
 again. Do not attempt to pour both boxes with 
 one ladle of babbitt as the metal cools quickly. 
 Get a fresh supply in ladle for each box. 
 
 When both lower boxes have been babbitted, 
 place new shims on all the bearings and attach 
 the caps, screwing them down tight on the shims. 
 Dam up between the ends of caps and collars. 
 ( See Figure "Y.") Now make a center dam "N" 
 over this hole. When both caps are babbitted, re- 
 move the dam. placing a dog on the end of the 
 babbitting shaft. Loosen the set screws in each 
 collar and remove the shaft by a pulling, twisting 
 movement. .\'ow ti'im up the ends of each box. 
 
 For sci'aping boxes, see page 42.
 
 B E r 6 £ G C E B 
 
 in u n rt /y u 
 
 BABBITTING JIG 
 JOB No. 17 
 
 SOUTH BEND LATHE WORKS 
 
 Plan VieuJ %. X 
 
 Enlarged Section of F ' 
 
 P/an Vieiu Fiq. Y 
 
 M K N M 
 
 rig. X 
 
 End View Fi^. X
 
 South Bexd Lathe Works. South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 15. Part No. 30. 
 
 1. DRILUXG HOLES FOR REST BRACK- 
 ETS. Place the grimier head on two wooden 
 cleats on top of saddle, one end ot the cored hole on 
 the head center and the other end on the tail cen- 
 ter of lathe, thus lining up the cored hole, shim up 
 under the grinder head, if necessary. Clamii 
 grinder head to saddle if you wish. Now remove 
 head center, and with a 47/64" drill in chuck {see 
 drawing), start drilling. The drill should revolve 
 slowly. With the right hand feeding by hand 
 wheel of tail stock and the left hand operating the 
 carriage wheel and the tail center still in cored 
 hole, drill three-quarter way through the casting. 
 Now replace the tail center with a drill pad. a 
 piece of wood between drill pad and grinder, finish 
 drilling the hole. Then size the hole with a %" 
 standard reamei-. .Machine the other hole in the 
 same way. 
 
 The two small side holes, through which set 
 screws pass to fasten the bracket, may be drilled 
 by using the same cleats as for drilling the bracket 
 holes. 
 
 bracket hole, using the tail stock wheel to teed, 
 holding the grinder casting with the left hand. 
 When the hole is drilled, reverse position of the 
 grinder casting, and drill a similar hole in the oppo- 
 site end of casting. 
 
 Xow tap the holes with a %", Ifi-thread, right 
 hand U. S. Standard Tap, running through first 
 with a taper tap, and finishing with a plug tap, 
 using a hand tap wrench. 
 
 It will not be necessary, in drilling these holes, 
 to clamp the casting to the lathe carriage. Sim- 
 ply turn the grinder head around, place a fg" drill 
 in the chuck, lay out the position of the hole in the 
 end of boss nn casting, and drill through into the 
 
 For castings and material in the rough, also 
 supplies, etc., for building the S-inch Bench 
 Emery Grinder, see page 5o.
 
 South Bend Lathe Works. Soi'th B io n n, I x u i a .\ a 
 
 Job No. 18. Part Xo. l.> and Hi. Drawinii No. 1 H). 
 
 To make a nut, secure a piece of cold drawn 
 hexagon steel, 1%" across the tlats. Place this 
 material in a 3-Jaw Universal Geared Scroll Chuck, 
 letting it extend far enough from the chuck so that 
 two nuts can be made in one chucking. 
 
 Face the end of the material, locate the center, 
 then with a %" drill in the tail stock of chuck, 
 bore a hole for a depth of two nuts. Tlien cham- 
 fer the end, and with a cutting-oft tool, cut the nut 
 the desired length. Repeat this operation on the 
 second nut. Then place the nut back in the chuck, 
 and with a %", 10-thread right hand V. S. Stand- 
 ard Taper Tap, held on tail centers by a monke.v 
 wrench, let the end of this tap enter the hole of 
 the nut. (See drawing Figure "E," page .58.) t'se 
 plenty of oil on the tap. Then with the right hand 
 feeding the ta|), and the left hand pulling the 
 belt, slowly feed the tap through the nut. Using 
 the grinder spindle as an arbor on centers, face 
 the nuts true on both ends. 
 
 Perhaps it would be much better to buy these 
 nuts, rather than make them. The %" right hand 
 nut can be purchased from the hardware store, and 
 perhaps the %" left hand nut also. If not, we can 
 furnish them, finished complete and hardeneil, at 
 a nominal jirice. 
 
 Tafi drill g-Tapj-IOTh'ds U.SS L H 
 
 ^ Tapdnll l-Tap j-IOTh'Js US 5 R H 
 
 Job No. 18 
 
 Mafrnal-Mild Stre/. . ^^ , 
 ^c Firces T^rou'rcd -^ pffcA 
 
 Dni^^isQ No.i46\paRrNo45f4& 
 
 RfL H.SPINULE HEXKHON NUT. 
 
 Scalf 
 
 VJorK to figures 
 
 50UTH BC.'iD Lf^THE noHHS.
 
 South B e ^- u Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 27. Part No. 107. Drawing No. 207 
 
 1. JIATERIAL. A l.athe Mandrel is usually 
 made of crucible or tool steel, so it may be hard- 
 ened and tempered all over. However, (or large 
 mandrels, mild steel may be used instead of cru- 
 cible, especially when an arbor is over %" di- 
 ameter, not excessive in length, and where it i.^; 
 not subjected to rough, heavy work. If carbon 
 steel cannot be secured easily, we can use mild 
 steel with good results. 
 
 Select a piece of mild steel, TVs" long. Cen- 
 ter both ends, place on centers and face both 
 ends. Take a roughing chip over the entire 
 diameter. With a facing tool on an angle, recess 
 both ends of the arbor to a depth of 1/32". Let 
 this recess extend about V2" in diameter. The ob- 
 ject of this recess is that in driving a pulley or 
 ring on to the arbor, or driving the arbor out of 
 this pulley or ring, when the mallet comes in con- 
 tact with the end of the arbor, it will not jamb or 
 destroy the center hole. 
 
 Xow reduce the diameter for a distance of %" 
 on each end, as shown. The object of this reduc- 
 tion is to have a suitable place to attach the driving 
 dog. Then file a flat place on both shoulders for 
 
 the dog set screw to screw against. Xow harden 
 and temper the mandrel all over. If the material is 
 crucible steel, for hardening and tempering follow 
 instructions shown in section 62, page 46, of Lathe 
 Book. If the arbor is made of mild steel, case 
 harden both ends only as far as the shoulders. 
 Follow instructions shown in section 64, page 46, 
 of Lathe Book. 
 
 The mandrel has a slight taper, the small end 
 of the fitting surface, finishing .001" under the 
 standard dimensions — 1%"; while the other end 
 finishes .002" above the standard dimensions. 
 Therefore there is a difference of .003" on the fit- 
 ting diameter of the arbor, on a length of 5i^". 
 This is to allow a piece to be driven off and on an 
 arbor easily, and always from the same end. 
 
 Where arbors or lathe mandrels are made in 
 quantity, the fitting diameter is finished by grind- 
 ing; the mandrels are placed on centers in a s|)e- 
 cial grinding machine, and revolve slowly, and are 
 finished by a swiftly revolving emery wheel. A 
 mild steel mandrel can, however, be finished very 
 accurately by turning, and then filing and polish- 
 ing with emery cloth. It requires care and accur- 
 ate measurement with a micrometer caliper. 
 
 48
 
 Job /Vo. 27 
 
 Material - Carhon Steel. 
 
 1^0- Pieces Recfu/red - 1 
 
 D»finme No. Z07\ PnRT No. 107 
 
 Li 
 
 INCH MANDREL 
 
 Scale Worii to fijitrrs 
 
 SOUTH BE.ND LflTHC kV0fiA5.
 
 South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Job No. 30. Part No. 109. Drawing No. 209. 
 
 1. MACHIXIXG CHUCK PLATE. The draw- 
 ing on the ojiposite page describes a cliuck plate, 
 required in fitting a lathe chuck to a lathe. Tliis 
 chuck plate is to be bored and threaded to fit the 
 spindle nose of the 15" South Bend Lathe. The 
 diameter "A" is to fit the recess in the back of 
 chuck. 
 
 If there is only one lathe in the shop, and 
 chuck is to be fitted to this lathe, then it would 
 be necessary to swing the chuck plate on the large 
 face plate. (See face plate .iob, page 5S.) Be- 
 fore (•lamping chuck plate to face plate securely, 
 bring the tail stock center up, and the tail center 
 will tend to center the chuck plate. Now revolve 
 the lathe slowly, and hold a piece of chalk to the 
 hub of the chuck ])late, until it runs true; then 
 clamp securely to the face plate. 
 
 Take a chip on the face of the hub, and with a 
 boring tool bore to the proper diameter, which is 
 the bottom of the thread on spindle nose. JIachine 
 the recess to a diameter slightly in excess of the 
 unthreaded diameter of spindle nose. 
 
 3. THREADING. Set the Threading Tool (as 
 shown in Figure 16, page 30, of book "How to Run 
 a Lathe"). Set the ad.iustable stop to depth of 
 thread and proceed with the thread cutting, taking 
 light chips. WTien you think the proper depth of 
 thread has been reached, unscrew the face plate. 
 
 and without disturbing the chuck plate on the face 
 plate, try the threaded part of the chuck plate on 
 the spindle nose. If the chuck plate will not screw 
 on spindle, take another chip and repeat this oper- 
 ation until the chuck plate screws snugly on the 
 spindle nose. 
 
 Chuck plate being fitted, remove it from the 
 face plate, screw it on to spindle nose firmly up 
 against the shoulder. Put a couple drops of oil on 
 threaded part of chuck plate, before screwing it on 
 spindle nose. Then machine the diameter "A" to 
 fit the recess of the chuck to be fitted. Use care in 
 making this fit. Round the corners slightly with a 
 file, on the face of diameter "A," where the bottom 
 fits into the chuck recess. 
 
 When this fit is properly made, then place some 
 red lead or chalk on the bottom of the entire recess 
 of the chuck. Now press the chuck plate into re- 
 cess. Wake a center punch mark on the chuck 
 plate and on the chuck, so that you will know the 
 position to replace the chuck plate after holes are 
 drilled. Rap chuck plate several times with a 
 wooden mallet. Remove the chuck plate, and you 
 will find indicated the proper position of the holes 
 through which chuck screws pass. Drill these 
 holes about A." larger in diameter than the bolts 
 or screws. Place the chuck plate back in recess 
 of chuck, according to the center punch marks, at- 
 tach your screws, and chuck is fitted ready for use. 
 
 50
 
 Machine R-to AfcfiucK- 
 
 Z4-8 Th^ds 
 y^ U.S.S.l^H. 
 
 Job No. 30. 
 
 Material - Cast Iron 
 No. Pieces Hei^uirecl- J 
 
 SfiHwitiS rJo.209 PHRT No. 109 
 
 CHUCK PLATE /or 15" LRTHE 
 
 Scale V^orH to /igures. 
 
 SOUTH BCND LRTHE: tYoffKS.
 
 South Bend Lathe Wobks, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Painting and Assembling the Grinder 
 
 The grinder should be painted after all machine 
 work has been done. The castings have already 
 been cleaned of all sand, sprues, etc., before 
 machining. 
 
 Before applying a coat of paint, be sure that 
 all trace of oil and grease has been removed from 
 the grinder head. Then apply a coat of paint, 
 good quality, any color will serve. This is what 
 we call the priming coat. 
 
 After the priming coat is dry, apply a coat of 
 iron filler. 
 
 This filler comes prepared in a form something 
 similar to a soft, wet clay. The tiller should be cut 
 with turpentine until it resembles a paste as thick 
 as can be applied easily with a brush. Paint the 
 entire casting with a coat of this filler, with the 
 exception of the machined surfaces. The coat will 
 dry in from four to ten hours, depending upon 
 the drying properties of the filler. When dry, rub 
 down w'ith coarse sandpaper in such a manner 
 that you sand only the high spots. Then apply an- 
 other coat of filler. When this is dry, sand again. 
 If you wish the machine to look unusually nice, 
 you should apply at least four coats of filler, and 
 sand after each coat. 
 
 After the casting has been filled, apply a 
 coat of sealer. This may be an oil-proof paint, or 
 an enamel. Enamel makes the best sealer, because 
 it is oil-proof, and it levels evenly. The color may 
 be black, dark blue, or dark green. When the seal- 
 er or oil-proof coat of paint is dry. then assemble 
 the machine. 
 
 For painting the bracket heads, the angle and T 
 rests, follow the same instructions as given for 
 painting the grinder head. 
 
 ASSEMBLING. After the painted parts are 
 dry, assemble the machine. In assembling, place 
 the end of the spindle having the left hand nut on 
 the left hand end of the frame. The reason is, that 
 when the emery wheels are revolving, the nuts 
 should fasten in the direction of the rotation of the 
 emery wheel, because the greater the speed, the 
 greater the tendency to tighten the nuts, whereas, 
 if the direction of the thread was reversed, the 
 tendency would be to loosen the nuts. 
 
 When the machine is assembled apply a finish- 
 ing coat of velvet black, preferably a dull velvet 
 shade.
 
 S o T T H Bend Lathe Works. South Bend, I x d i a n a 
 
 Safety Guards for Fernery Wheels 
 
 The drawing herewith shows safety guards tor 
 guarding the emery wheels. These guards are 
 made of malleable or cast iron. Malleable iron is 
 recommended. 
 
 The guards are used in pairs, right and left. 
 There is no difference in the design or the con- 
 struction, except in the base. When making the 
 pattern, disconnect the pattern at the base, using 
 a right and left base, so that one large pattern 
 will serve for the hoods. 
 
 There is no machine work done on these 
 guards. All that is necessary is to sand and 
 paint them. 
 
 INFORMATION ON EMERY WHEELS 
 
 1— SOUND wheels before MOUNTING to de- 
 tect possible IN.TURY in TRANSIT. 
 2 — Never FORCE wheels on spindles 
 3 — Use RELIEVED flanges where possible. 
 
 4— Avoid UNNECESSARY tightening of 
 flanges. 
 
 5 — Keep rest CLOSE to wheel. 
 
 6— Keep wheels TRUE. 
 
 7— Keep BEARINGS adjusted. 
 
 S — Have Grinder on SOLID foundation.
 
 South Bend Lathe Woeks, South Bend, Indiana 
 
 Manufacturing in the School Shop 
 
 Several of the larger manual training schools 
 have already started to manufacture in a small 
 way. 
 
 From our experience in manufacturing, we 
 know that it is possible for the manual training 
 schools to make something of commercial value 
 in their shops, and the time will come when all 
 manual training schools will require the students 
 to work on something useful, something that can 
 be sold, and a sum can be realized from the sale, at 
 least sufficient to cover the cost of the materia! 
 and supplies. 
 
 The Bench Grinder illustrated and described in 
 this little text book, is a useful tool. It can be 
 made in quantity in the school shop, and sold to 
 other school shops. It can also be sold to the 
 machinery trade. 
 
 A large machine shop equipment is not neces- 
 sary for building the S-inch Bench Grinder. The 
 entire work can be done on a 1.5" South Bend 
 Lathe. If the school equipment includes a drill 
 press, milling machine and shaper, the work can 
 be done to better advantage. 
 
 If the grinder countershaft is wanted, we can 
 supply the castings and all parts in the rough, to- 
 gether with the necessary drawings and blue prints 
 for the machining of these parts. A drawing of 
 the countershaft may be seen on page 60. 
 
 We claim no patent on this grinder. Anyone 
 who wishes to make the machine in part or whole, 
 has our permission. We shall be glad to supply 
 them with text books. 
 
 The work may be divided into four departments 
 as follows: • 
 
 1. DRAWING ROGIM. The students may make a 
 complete set of drawings, using this text book 
 as a guide. 
 
 2. PATTER.X ROO.M. A complete set of working 
 patterns can be made from the above drawings. 
 
 3. FOUNDRY AND CORE ROOM. A complete 
 set of cores and castings can be made up if the 
 school has the necessary equipment. 
 
 4. MACHINE SHOP. This text book illustrates 
 and describes in detail, the machining of the 
 grinder. 
 
 54
 
 S o I' T II Bend Lathe Works, S o t; t ii K e x d, Indiana 
 
 Gastinos and Supplies for S-Inch Bonch Emery (nluder 
 
 For the accommodation of schools who wish to 
 build the Tool Room Grinder, and are not in a 
 position to make ])atterns or to secure the neces- 
 sar.v castings, steel, etc., we shall be pleased to 
 supply all the parts and material in the rough, as 
 per the following list: 
 
 For explanation of part numbers and names, see 
 drawing, page S. 
 
 PART NO. 
 
 NAME 
 
 23 
 
 Machine Bolts 
 
 29 
 
 Grinder Head 
 
 ;») 
 
 Caps (2) 
 
 31 
 
 Spindle 
 
 32 
 
 Spindle Pulley 
 
 33 
 
 Rest Brackets. I. (2) 
 
 34 
 
 "T" Rest 
 
 35 
 
 "T" Rest Bracket 
 
 3G 
 
 Angle Rest 
 
 37 
 
 Angle Rest Bracket 
 
 38 
 
 Inside Flanges (2) 
 
 39 
 
 Outside Flanges (2) 
 
 40-41 
 
 Safety Guard, R and L 
 
 43 
 
 Safety Guard Screws (4) 
 
 45-4G 
 
 Hexagon Xuts, R. & L. H. for Spindle 
 
 47 
 
 Fillister Head Cap Screws for Bearings(4 
 
 48 Headless Set Screw for Spindle Pulley 
 
 49 Sq. Head Set Screws for Rest Brackets(6) 
 
 50 Oil Cups (2) 
 
 51 Emery Wheels (2) 
 
 We can also furnish parts and supplies as follows: 
 Lathe Tools 
 Lathe Dogs 
 Babbitt Metal 
 Babbitt Heater 
 Babbitt Ladle 
 Shims for Babbitting 
 Babbitting Collars, Rough or Finished 
 Babbitting Bar, Rough or Finished 
 IVs" Arbor, Rough or Finished 
 %" Arbor, Rough or Finished 
 Semi-Machined Chuck Plate 
 Chuck Arbor, Rough or Finished 
 
 A full set of working blue prints, 6V2" x 9" 
 
 For prices of all material, castings, etc.. 
 in the rough, write for special circular mailed 
 free on request. Address South Bend Lathe 
 Works, Grinder Dept., 428 E. Madison Street, 
 South Bend, Ind.
 
 South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, I^tdiana 
 
 Driving l>> a (tiiiiiiitui l><»g 
 
 Drilling in tiiv Latlif 
 
 [-'-i: 
 
 lU 
 
 II 
 
 xzhehczizzbC 
 
 r,g. T 
 
 Cutting a Slmnhler 
 
 f/p. 
 
 Driving Uy a Clamp Dog 
 
 56
 
 S 11 I I u B I. .\ 1) L A T II ]■; W o K K s. Si) L' 1' II B i: .\ ii, I ,\ u i a .\ a 
 
 1 ^ ^]rr^ 
 
 ^00 ^^ 
 
 @ 
 
 h 
 
 ')■ 
 
 Fig. S 
 
 :i3 
 
 ( hiirUiii;; 11 riiiDt; 
 
 Cuiniiuinid lifsi nil :in Anuli- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ) 
 
 
 
 (•■ 
 
 
 r,gv 
 
 
 
 
 fi 
 
 l>rilling^ on the Diameter 
 
 l'ulU'> on Arlmr
 
 S O I- T H B K N I) L A r il E W O K K S, S O I' T H B E X I». 1 X IH A X A 
 
 o o L ^ 
 
 E 
 
 ® 
 
 S^SSS 
 
 f,y. H 
 
 TTse of an Indicator 
 
 3larhinini: a Chiu-k Jiii> 
 
 A race Plate Job 
 
 Tapping in the f'liuck 
 
 r.s
 
 South B e k d Lathe Works, S o u t ir B e m), I in d i a .\ a 
 
 QJ^ 
 
 South IJi'iid Milliny and Kov-W av C'uttiny AUathiuenl lor J^atlics 
 
 The above two half-tones show our improved 
 Milling and Key-Way Cutting Attachment for 
 lathes. This attachment is very practical on a 
 lathe in the slioii wliere there is no milling ma- 
 chine or shaper. 
 
 Tlie attachment is designed for South Bend 
 Lathes, but it can also be fitted by a mechanic to 
 lathes of other makes that are equipped with com- 
 ]iound rest. This Milling and Key-Way Cutting 
 Atlacliment is fully described in South Bend 
 l.athe Catalog. Write for free catalog. 
 
 50
 
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 U
 
 llllUlllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllli 
 B 000 003 235 9 
 
 FIRST YEAR LATHE WORK 
 
 PRICE 10 CENTS 
 
 Coin or stamps accepted. 
 Postpaid to any address. 
 
 m 
 
 We have made the price of this little book 
 as low as possible, so that each student tak- 
 ing shop work can afford to have a copy.
 
 A Partial List of Schools that are Usini South Bend Lathes 
 
 v. S. MlUtaijr Academy, Weet Point 
 
 CblcaKo Board of Edneatlon 
 
 New Tork City Boaid ol Education 
 
 Cnlverslty of Chlcaco 
 
 Lawrence Hlrb School, Falmonth, 
 
 Maaa. 
 Western 8tate Normal School, 
 
 Kalamazoo, Mich, 
 Taller City, N. D., Board of lEdncatloa 
 UnlTersltr of minoiii. Champaign, lU. 
 Tacoma Public Blgrh School, Tacoma, 
 
 Wash. 
 Detroit, Mich., Board of Edneatlon 
 Vniverslty of City of Cincinnati 
 Boy» High School, Frederick, Hd. 
 V. a. School of Field Artillery 
 lUlnola School for Deaf, JacksonvUle, 
 
 III. 
 Blue Island, lU., Board of Education 
 VirglDla Polytechnic Institute, 
 
 Blacksburg, Va. 
 University of Utah, Salt Lake City, 
 
 Utah 
 Dartmouth Medical School, Nonrteh, 
 
 Vermont 
 Oreen Bay, Wis., Board of Education 
 Valparaiso Cnlverslty, Valparaiso, Ind. 
 Central High School, Onelph, Canada 
 Portland, Ore., Board of EdacattoB 
 Portland, Maine Board of Education 
 WaTerly, N. X., Board of Education 
 University of Colorado. Boulder, CoL 
 
 L. f. MAROT eo., MUTH »%HO. INR, 
 
 Kansas City Board of Education 
 University of Southern &Unnesota 
 New Kensington Borough High School, 
 
 Kew Kensington, Pa, 
 Rice Institute, Houston, Texas 
 Harvard University 
 Inland Stanford University, Palo Alto. 
 
 Calif. 
 W. Va. Industrial School for Boys, 
 
 Charleston, W. Va. 
 Miles Staadlsh School, Boston, Mass. 
 Parkman School, Boston, Bfass. 
 Arthur Hill Trade School, Saginaw, 
 
 Midi. 
 South Bend Hlsh School, South Bend, 
 
 lad. 
 Jefferson School, Stockton, CalU, 
 Marinette, Wis., Board of Education 
 University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, 
 
 Mich. 
 Delaware College, Newark, DeL 
 School District No. 27, Douglas, Arlx. 
 Janesville High School, JaneerlUe, 
 
 Wis. 
 Mann Vocational School, Lowell, Haaa. 
 Van Wert, Ohio, Board of Eduoatloa 
 State Normal School, Oshkosh, Wis. 
 Manitowoc, Wis., Board of Industilal 
 
 Education 
 Coronado High School, Ooronado, 
 
 Gallf. 
 Galesburg High School, Oalesburg, U. 
 Illinois WMleyan University, 
 
 Bloomlngton, III. 
 
 Technical High School, Atlanta, Qm. 
 University of BUssourl, Columbia, Mo. 
 Miss. Agricultural & Mech. College, 
 
 Agricultural College, Miss. 
 University of Oregon, Eugene, Ore, 
 Mass. Agricultural College, Amherst, 
 
 Mass. 
 Johns Hopkins Medical School, 
 
 Baltimore, Md. 
 Qnlncy Industrial School, Qulncy, 
 
 Miaaa. 
 University of Texas, Austin, Texas 
 University of Illinois, Urbana, lU. 
 Akron, Ohio, Board of Education 
 Fort Apache Indian School, Holbrook, 
 
 Arlx. 
 Somerset, Ky„ Board of Education 
 Huntington, W.Va., Board of Education 
 Clark University, Worcester, Mass. 
 Steiilng Towngliip High School, 
 
 Sterling, DL 
 Fort Wayne Vocational School, 
 
 Fort Wayne, Ind. 
 University of Porto BIco 
 Bldgway-Bore. School Dlst., Bldgway, 
 
 Fa. 
 Bliss Electric School, WasUngtoB, 
 
 D. C 
 Centennial High School, Pncblo, Colo. 
 Oswego Normal School, Oswego, N. T. 
 Queen Anne High School, Seattle.Waab. 
 Ballard High School, Seattle, Wash. 
 West SeatUe High School, Set 
 
 ^"■^ University 
 
 Southei 
 
 T .ihrar