STACK ANNEX ilifornia ;ional ility :^IRST YEAR LATHE WORK BXT BOOK for STUDENTS ia TECHNICAL and MANUAL TRAINING SCHOOLS PRICE 10 CENTS SOUTH BEND LATHE WORKS SOUTH BEND, INDIANA, U. S. A. The demand for machinists is so great and the supply so limited in nearly ev- ery city in the United States that the manufacturers in the larger cities have a standing offer with the Manual Train- ing Schools for the employment of all young men who have finished the machine shop course. FIRST YEAR LATHE WORK Prepared for Students in Technical, Manual Training, and Trade Schools, and for the Apprentice in the Shop <I Tin- Ntiiilcnt in llii' scliool shop takes a di'cp iiid'icst in niiikinii parts for a niacliinc, knowinii 1 liat 1 he n\a<hini' will b<- asscnilil<-(l, antl placcci in oprriition in t he s<'.hool shoj). 'I'his will fiivo him iiii opportnnit\- lo ol>s('rv*' the reasons for t h*' Viirions op<'ratif>ns on <'iK*.h jol>. ^ The instructor will he reli«-ve(l of endless and unnecessary det;iil, if the instruction plan in tliis hook is followed. I The inst rnet ion plan for hnildinij t his lit t le ( irinder has heen arranijed t4> follow ehtsel_\- tin* methods us<'d in modern shop priU'ti<'e. so thiit the sindeni who (inishes " Kirst ^'ear hallie Work"" intelligently, will he familiar witli man>' of the f n ndamentals. when h<' starts out in lif<' on his lirst jol) in the industrial machine shop. CopyriiilU l;nr l.y OUUlliN HKOS. ~.I. .1. O'Brien, M. \V. O'Brien TEXT BOOK No. 2 SOUTH BEND LATHE WORKS SOUTH BEND, IND., U. S. A. 428 E. MADISON STREET O -? O -M -r) C ii C CC 0, ^ 2 :S r- '- PQ ^ ^^ •r-t I 00 6 h 0^ o y3 yj -c" C fe (P C C S o ^ £ d i o ^ &•? 0) o ^ a; O o a> ^ 'Jl ^ ■g ^ S ill O " •= O 5 O g bJD X +j to 0) "A 0) South Bexd Lathe Works, South Bend, Ixdiaxa 39 39 Pari Xiinihcrs and Xanics of S-| mli Hcnch (i PART KO. \AME I'AltT M). SAili: 23 Machine Bolts (4) 34 "T" Rest 29 Grinder Head 3.T "T" Rest Bracket 30 Caps (2) 30 Angle Rest ;U Spindle 37 Angle Rest Bi'acket 32 Spindle Pulley 3.S Inside Flanges (2i 33 Rest Brackets L.I 2) 3!l Outside Flanges (2) 4:") R. H. Spindle Hex. Xut 46 L. H. Spindle Hex. Nut 47 Fillister Head Cap Screws ( 4 1 48 Headless Set Screw 49 Sq. Head Set Screws (6) 50 Oil Cups (2) 51 Emery Wheels (2) A — lioverso B — Back Gear Lpvit C — Back Gears D — Spindle Cone E— Head Stock I' —Face Plate r; — Saddlp M — Lead Screw Bracket I lead R — Cross Feed Ball Crank 11— Tool Tost End S — (_'r<tss Feed Lever Knob 1 — Compound Itcst N —Legs ■1' — Apron Xnt Cam .1 — Tail Stock 1) - —Apron Hand Wheel I —Rack K — Tail Stock Ilan.l Will'.' r- —Apron v — Lead Screw I Lathe Bed t) — Apron ("lutch w — Lead Screw Bracket Tail stock End S () I' i' II B li N n L A T HE Works, So i; t n Be .\ i>, I x d i a x a Princiiial Parts of a Standard Engine Latlio On Page 4 UP illustrate a Standard Screw Cut- ting Engine Lathe. We have lettered a few of the most important parts, so that the beginner may be- pome familiar with their use. This Engine loathe is equipped with automatic lonsiturtinal feed and automatic cross feed. To operate the automatic longitudinal feed, loosen Knob "S" by unscrewing, then push it down as far as it will go. and screw tight. Fasten Knob "Q" tight. The automatic longitudinal feed is now in operation. To release automatic longitudinal feed, siujply unscrew Knob "Q," which I'eleases the friction feed. To connect the automatic cross feed, unscrew Knob ■•S" and lift it as high as it will go, then screw tight, fasten Knob "Q" tight. .\ow the automatic cross feed is connected. When the automatic cross feed is connected, the automatic longitudinal feed is disconnected. When the automatic longitudinal feed is connected the automatic cross feed is disconnected. There- fore it is impossible to have both feeds connected at the same time, and while one feed is in oper- ation it is impossible for the other feed to drop in. For screw cutting neither of the automatic feeds are used, so when cutting a screw be sure to see that Knob "Q" is loose, not tight. In cut- ting a screw or thread, the split nuts are clamped on to the lead screw by Cam "T". For the detail of thread cutting see Section 37 of book entitled "How to Run a Lathe." Oil the lathe frequently. If the lathe is used every day, it should be oiled every morning be- fore starting. Use a good grade of machine oil, none other. Oil tlie head stock spindle, the back gear quill, the spindle cone, the thrust collar, the lead screw bearings, the apron gears and studs, the carriage bearings, the rear carriage gib; and move or operate each part by hand, to see that it moves freely, before starting the lathe. For further information of details and parts of the Screw Cutting Engine Lathe, see little book entitled "How to Run a Lathe." described on page 1)4 of this book. CATALOG. Free interesting catalog. No. 50. just off the press, describing the entire line of South Bend Lathes, showing iirices of all lathes and attachments. Catalog mailed free to any address. South B e x d Lathe Works, S o ir t ii Bend. I x n i a x a Contoriiig To machine a shaft on centers in the lathe, it is necessary that it be centered. A hole is drilled and countersunk in each end so that the shaft may revolve on lathe centers. Before centering a piece of soft steel, care should be taken that the shaft is as straight as possible, be- cause the straighter the piece is, the smaller the diameter of the rough stock required. There are many ways of center- ing. Tte simplest is to chalk the end of the shaft to be centered. Scratch two lines at right angles to each other, and where these lines intersect will be the approximate center of the shaft. See Fig. 4. Drive center punch on the intersection of lines on both ends of the shaft. Place the shaft thus punched, on the centers of the lathe, revolve by hand; if it does not run true, hold a piece of chalk to the shaft while revolving and it will mark the high spots. Place shaft in the vise once more, drive the center in the direction necessary to have the shaft run true. Centering an Irregular Piece Figure "M" shows the method of centering the T Rest, or any irregular part that has a round shank. Chalk the ends of the part to be centered, and place the part to be turned on the "V" Block. With a surface gauge make a mark on both ends of the piece. Then revolve the piece on the "V" Block a quarter of a revolution, and make another mark on each end. Complete the four quarters of a revolution in this manner. The intersection of these marks will be the proper center point. S o I- T K B j; .N 1) L A 1 II i: W o E K s, So u t ii B e .n ii. 1 n h i a n a ir the piece to be machined is close to size in the rough so that very little stock is left for fin- ishing, care should be taken to see that the bar is straight as possible and that the center holes are located accuratelj- so that the shaft may be true all over when finished. Drill and countersink each end of the shaft un- til a depth is reached sufficient to support the shaft on the centers while it is being machined. A good method of countersinking is shown in Fig. .">. In centering a shaft that Is over 3 or 4 pounds in weight, care should be taken to see that the weight of the shaft does not break the center drill. If the piece being centered is steel or iron, there should be oil used on the center drill, and the oper- ator should feed the shaft slowly to the drill. If for any reason a center drill breaks and part of the broken drill remains in the shaft, this broken part should be immediately removed. Sometimes you may be able to work the broken part out with a chisel, but occasionally it sticks so hard that it cannot be removed. In that case, the broken part of the drill left in the shaft must be annealed, and the only way to anneal it is to anneal the end of the shaft. For annealing see Section 63, I.athe Book. (How to Run a Lathe.) Long shafts may be centered with a breast drill or brace and bit. The regular countersinks may be used in the same manner. LIcO Goil II t •'!•> I k i 1 1 1 A drill chuck, holding a combined drill and countersink (See Fig. .5B, page 8), is fitted to the head spindle of lathe. Tlie shaft has already been center punched. Place end of shaft on tail center and Shalt ill the Lathe hold with left hand, and feed to the drill by turn- ing the wheel of tail stock. Allow the countersink to enter the proper dejjth, countersink the other end in the same manner. South B e x d Lathe Works, S o u i h Bend, Indiana Drill and C'oiintorsink ('oiiiliiiicd Fig. 5B shows a combined drill and counter- sink, which is both the center drill and counter- sink. Centering may also be done by a small twist drill tor the center hole and a larger twist drill ground 60 degrees following as a countersink. Proper Countersink I-iK. 8 ri«. Figs. S and ii show two styles countersink that are used to follow the small twist drill for counter- sinking. Fig. 7 shows the style of countersink which gives best results. A small hole Is first drilled be- yond the depth of the point of the lathe center; it is then countersunk on an angle of 60 degrees to fit the lathe center. w r 1 A w ' F,o. 7 ln^i)ri>l)er ("entering South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana Lilt ho Dogs The common lathe dog i& used for driving round or cylindrical pieces that are machined between centers on the lathe. The clamp lathe dog is used for the same pur- pose as the common dog, but is more practical for holding rectangular work. Tiiriiiiig a Strcl Shaft The illustration above shows a steel shaft being machined on a lathe. The shaft is driven between centers by a common lathe dog that is firmly at- tached by a set screw, the tail of the dog enters the slot in the face plate. <'liimp I.atlie Doff The names of a few schools using South Bend Lathes will be found on the outside cover. South Bexd Lathe Works, South Bekd, I?i-diaka Patent Turning Tool Illustration herewith shows a Patent Turning Tool. Some mechanics prefer to use the Patent Tools rather than the forged steel lathe tools. 9 10 11 12 Forged Steel Lathe Tools Lett-hand Side Tool 7 Right-hand Side Tool S Right-hand Bent Tool 9 Right-hand Diamond 10 Point n Left-hand Diamond Point 12 Round Nose Tool Cutting-off Tool Threading Tool Bent Threading Tool Roughing Tool Boring Tool Inside Threading Tool Forged Steel Lathe Tools The twelve lathe tools illustrated have been selected as the most practical set of forged tools for general all-round work on the lathe. These tools are made both in carbon and the high speed steels. The size of the tools vary to suit the differ- ent size lathes. Lathe Tools Tlie drawings on page 11 show the application of the above twelve lathe tools. It is not necessary to use forged steel lathe tools, as the patent lathe tool shown herewith may be applied in the same way. The arrow shows the direction of the feed of the tool. In some cases the tool may be fed to ad- vantage in two directions. For example, in draw- ing No. 1, the arrow shows the tool feeding out toward the periphery. This tool may also be fed in toward the center. Again, in drawing No. 11, the boring tool is feeding to the left. This tool may also take a cut in feeding to the right. Patent Lathe Tools There are several lines of excellent patent lathe tools on the market for turning, boring, thread cut- ting, knurling, etc. ^tF ^ "lon^^ 11 12 SOUTH BEND LATHE WORKS. South B e .n d Lathe Works, South B e is- d, I >- d i a x a The Position of tUittiug Edge of Tool In setting a tool for cutting threads, turning taper, or boring, the height of the cutting edge of the tool should be in a line with the axis or point of the lathe center. The position of the cutting edge of a turning tool for machining metal is quite important. In most work, we fi n d that about 5 de- grees above the center gives best results. (See Fig. 12.) The position of the tool also de- pends upon its clearance and rake, and upon the material to be cut as: cast iron, soft steel, or tool steel, etc. A little practice will enable operator to learn the proper height on different jobs. Care should be taken that the cutting edge of the tool does not extend too far from the tool post, especially on a heavy cut, because the nearer the tool post is to the work, the more firmly the tool can be held. The surface scale on a piece of cast iron is often very hard and sometimes will ruin the cut- ting point of the tool. For this reason the first or roughing cut should be deep enough to get under the scale. The scale must also be remembered when turning a piece of steel, as some kinds of steel contain a scale that will quickly dull the cut- ting edge of the turning tool. Grinding the Tool The efficiency of the cutting edge of a tool de- pends a great deal upon the way it is ground or sharpened. The tool should have plenty of clear- ance, a good rake and a clean cutting edge. The cutting edge of the tool is changed somewhat for various metals. After grinding a tool it would be well to dress up the cutting edge by hand with a small oil stone. This will improve its wearing qualities. Direction of Feed With a .Toh on C'.entor.s In machining a job on centers in the lathe, the feed of the tool should always be, when possible, in the direction of the head spindle. The reason is obvious: WTien the carriage is feeding toward the head spindle and the tool taking a heavy chip, the pressure is on the head center which revolves with the work. Should the tool when taking a heavy chip feed toward the tail stock, then the pressure is on the tail center, which is station- ary, and is, therefore, liable to heat unless oiled frequently. S o \; T H Bend Lathe W o b k s, Sou t h B e n i>, Indiana Kaciiiii KikI i>( Sli;il't When a shaft is being machined on centers, if accurate work is to be done, the ends of shaft must be faced so that they will ride on the centers even- ly, A side tool is usually used to do the facins. (See Fig. 11.) In facing with a side tool it may be necessary to face into the countersink hole. On reaching the edge of the countersink, tail center may be withdrawn slight- ly. This enables I the side tool to Mace the end clean. When shaft is faced ready for general machin- ing, place a droii of oil on the tail stock center, also a drop in the countersunk hole of .shaft. Adjust the tail stock center so that the shaft has a slight play on the centers (it must not turn bard on the centers), then fasten the tail stock spindle by the binding clamp. Keep oil on the tail center. When we refer to Lathe Book, we mean book entitled "How to Run a Lathe." (] Turniii;^ to a Klimilcler The above illustrations Figure "A" and Figure "B," show the advantage of using a Cutting-Off Tool in locating the shoulder on a turned shaft. Start the Cutting-Off Tool about 1/32" from the finished line of the shoulder and feed in until you reach a diameter about 1/32" larger than the fin- ish size, then rough the stock off with a diamond point tool and finish the face of shoulder with a side tool. For illustration, description and principal dimensions of South Bend Lathes, see pages 62 and 63 of this book. SoriH Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana Job No. 1. Part No. 35. Drawing No. 135. 1. CLEANIXG THE CASTING. All sand, gates and sprues should be removed from the casting, by chipping, grinding and filing. 2. CENTERING. To locate the centers, follow instructions shown on pages 6, 7 and S. 3. DRIVING. Attach a common lathe dog to the solid end of Rest Bracket. Place the bracket on centers, put a couple drops of oil on the tail center point, adjust the tail center so that the bracket has slight play on centers — not too loose; then clamp tail spindle firmly. 4. CUTTING SPEED. The material, being cast iron, the proper cutting speed for ,Job No. 1 is SS-feet per minute. This being the first job, per- haps it would be better not to run over 40-feet per minute. Rule for Cutting Speed of Metals will be found in Section 44 of book entitled "How to Run a Lathe." (See page 64.) 5. HEIGHT OF TOOL. For the position of the cutting edge of tool, see explanation page 12. 6. FACING THE ENDS. To face the ends of bracket, see illustration Figure "R," page 56. This operation is further described on page 13, "Facing End of Shaft." After the end is faced true, re- move the common dog, and attach a Clamp Dog to the cored end of bracket, (see drawing Figure "O," page 56) and face the solid end of shaft. 7. TURNING. Let the clamp dog remain at- tached to the cored end of bracket, and place the job on lathe centers. Select a diamond point turning tool, and take a roughing chip (see illus- tration Figure "O," page 56) the full length of the bracket. Always adjust the depth of the roughing cut so the cutting edge of tool will be underneath the scale. 8. STRAIGHT TURNING. After the first, or roughing chip has been taken, caliper the turned part at both ends, to see that the piece is machined straight or parallel. If there is any tendency to turn taper, adjust the tail stock center in the prop- er direction. For straight and taper turning, see Section 46 of book "How to Run a Lathe." 9. FINISHING. The machined part of this bracket is to be turned and finished to %" diame- ter, in order to pass through a %" hole in the grinder rest bracket "L," shown on page 19; this may be seen better in half-tone on page 2. It is, therefore, better to defer finishing chip until the holes in all tour rest brackets have been bored. Leave diameter of the turned part of the rest bracket about 1/32" over size, so when the holes in all rest brackets are bored, the shanks may be turned to the proper size, in order to make a gofid fit in the holes. 14 Job No. 2. Part No. 37. Drawing No. 137 1. JIachine Job Xo. 2 in the same way as Job No. 1, as the instructions of Job Xo. 1 will apply in every way to Job Xo. 2; the only difference being the shaft or shank of Job Xo. 2 is the longer. 2. FIXISHIXG. After taking the first or roughing chip on the diameter of shank, care should be taken to see that it is being turned parallel. If the cutting tool is at all dull, it should be shai'pened, and the cutting edge rubbed with an oil stone, by hand. For calipering the turned part, an ordinary spring caliper may be used, but a mi- crometer caliper is recommended, for it immedi- ately shows the operator how much material is left over the finished dimensions. Drilling and Tapping Brackets 3. DRILLING. We shall here describe the method of drilling and tapping the cored end of the four brackets for the %" set screws, but we shall have to postpone this operation until the three brackets are turned and bored complete. This drilling must be the last operation, for the reason it removes the center. To drill the %" hole in the end of bracket. l)lace the bracket in a Chuck, (see Figure "D"). The machined part of this bracket should run true when the chuck revolves. Adjust the jaws of the chuck accordingly, until the bracket does run true. Place a Standard Drill Chuck in the tail stock of the lathe. With a ,=,;" Drill in the chuck, start the lathe and drill the hole. 4. TAPPI.NG. Remove the bracket from the chuck, and fasten it upright in a vise. Select a %", 16-thread. right hand V. S. Standard Taper Tap. and with a hand tap wrench, tap the hole. Be sure to keep the tap straight, or parallel to the a.xis of the bracket. Use a few drops of oil on the tap thread.. Remove the taper ta]) and follow with a plug tap. South Bend Lathe Wokks, South Bend, Indiana Job No. 3. Part No. 33. Uiawing No. 133. 1. Machine Job Xo. 3 in tlie same manner as Jobs Xo. 1 and Xo. 2, as the instructions appl.ving to Jobs Xo. 1 and Xo, 2 will also apply to Job Xo. 3, tor it is similar, except that the shank of shaft in Job. Xo. 3 is longer than either one of the other two. 2. When machining a job on centers, the tail stock center should be oiled carefully. This cen- ter has been hardened and tempered, so the ,1ob revolving on this hard center, requires lubrication. Boring the Brackets 3. BORIXG THE HOLE. We describe here- with the method of boi'ing the %-inch hole in the brackets of Jobs Xo. 1, Xo. 2 and Xo. 3. This hole may be bored any time after the four brackets are rough turned. Place a drill pad in the tail stock spindle, and a drill chuck in the head si)indle. Use a 47 64" drill in the chuck. The bracket to be drilled should be held in position as shown in drawing. Figure "Z" herewith. Xote there is a small piece of %" board between the bracket and the drill pad. The reason is so that when the drill passes through the bracket, it will finish in the wood, not in the drill pad. The drill should revolve slowly. Operate the feed by hand wheel of tail stock, and feed slowly, especially when the drill reaches within jVi" of the end of the hole. It is not necessary to hold the bracket by hand while being drilled, but to let the end of bracket rest on top of compound rest, as shown in drawing Figure "Z." When the 47/64" hole is drilled in all four brackets, remove the drill and replace it with a %" Standard Reamer. The reaming operation is almost similar to that of the drilling, except that the reamer should revolve slower and the work should be fed to the reamer more slowly than in drilling. Another, but a more difficult way to do this job, would be to clamp the bracket to the face plate, and machine with a boring tool. B f I J ■ crV ^ -^,<%r " ^ ,^ ■c^ TT llf k>^v'~^- I -^ 1 f \ — - — Is — ^ 1 — L ^~' n^.z South Be>d Lathe Wobks, South Bend, Indiana Job No. 4. Part Xo. 31. Drawing No. 134. 1 . CENTERING. To locate the centers on Job No. 4. see drawing Figure "^M," page 6. 2. DRIVING. Owing to the construction of the "T" Rest, we cannot drive it with either the common lathe dog or the clamp dog, so it is neces- sary to attach a stud to the face plate, as per drawing herewith. This stud is simply a short piece of steel, about %" diameter. 3" long, thread- ed on one end for the distance of 2". By using two standard nuts, this stud can be clamped firm- ly to the face plate (an ordinary machine bolt, V2 X 3", will serve). Note this stud should not ex- tend any farther than the part of the casting which it drives. The reason is so the revolving stud will not interfere with the carriage of the lathe during the turning operation. 3. FACING. The shaft end of the "T" Rest only is to be faced. 4. TURNING. With the "T" Rest on centers, place a diamond point tool in the tool post, and take a light turning chip the entire length of the round part or shaft of the "T" Rest. Caliper for parallel turning. Then take a second chip, but do not finish any closer than 1/32" to the %" dimen- sion. becauBe shaft of this "T" Rest should not be finished until the hole is bored in the "T" Rest Bracket, Part No. 3.5, or Job No. 1. There are several dimensions shown in "T" Rest Bracket, .lob No. 4. that are not required for machining. Most of these dimensions are to be followed only for making the pattern for the "T" Rest. Tie with Belt Laco When driving a job on centers by a stud bolted to the face plate instead of a common lathe dog, the job should be tied to this stud with a piece of belt lacing. This is es|)ecially true when filing or polishing a piece that is revolving at a high speed on centers. A good lathe hand can run any kind of a machine. ■Ij Jch No. 4.. Maleri at - Cast Iron No. Pieces Required' 16 '8 5 3? 32 32 60 Tf- "^s 3 DRfkwiNe «o /J-4. p»nT No. 34. GRINDER T REST Scale WorK to figures. SOUTH BCND LATHE W0T>H3. | South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana Job No. 5. Part Xo. 'Mi. Driiwine No. 136. 1. CENTERING. To center Job No. .5. follow instructions shown in Job No. 4. 2. DRIVING. For driving Job No. 5, follow in- structions described in Job No. 4. It will be noticed in Jobs No. 4 and No. 5, they are faced only on the shaft end. Do not take a finishing cut on Job No. 5, but allow 1 '31'" stock for finishing at a later cut, after bracket in which angle rest fits is bored. Turning A Diameter to Fit A Machined Hole or Gau^e In turning a round shaft to fit a cylinder or hole, we should first learn what kind of a fit is required. There is a tight, driving fit, such as is required for an arbor. There is a pressing fit, such as is re- quii-ed for an inside flange on a grinder spindle, and there is a loose fit, which is the one we require on .iobs No. 1. No. 2, No. 3, No. 4 and No. 5. We cannot fit the round end or shank of the bracket to the hole in the rests. Jobs No. 1, No. 2 and No. .3, until these holes have been machined. We therefore leave the round part or shank of the bracket about 1/32" larger in diameter, until we are ready to make the fit. When the holes are bored, caliper the e.xact diameter of the hole. Or, better still, select an arbor which will fit the round hole. Then caliper the arbor at a point where it fits the hole. This will be the exact size of the shanks of the Angle Rest, T Rest and Bi'ackets. When ready to make the fit, place the job on centers and take a light chip, not extending over Vi" from the end of bracket. Caliper the reduced diameter carefully, and also try it in the hole for which it is to be fitted. If you can enter the shaft ,',/' into the hole, by pressure, then you can finish the chip. Change the belt, so the spindle will run at high- est speed, put a couple drops of oil on the tail center, and with a file, smooth the end of the bracket for a distance of about 1". Then remove the bracket from centers, and try it in the hole. It should be a nice, twisting fit, not too loose, but just so it will slip through nicely without shaking. Care must be taken to see that the hole into which the bracket fits is true. We assume, of course, this has been finished with a reamer. If so, it is finished to size, without any burrs or rough edges. — 1 1" J " \^ '•^ 5" ,3" 1? t ] 1" / 1 i .^J- '4 '■ ,/' / ^^^"t \ 3 32 3" 3" 3Z 3" 3'; 8' 16 Joh No. S. Materi a/ -Casf Iron No Pieces ReijujfecJ ■ DRAWItJS No 136 PART rsio 3S GRII^DER nNGl-E REST Sca/e Wark To fiyur, SOUTH BENO LnTHE WORKS. South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiaxa Job No. 6. Part No. 31. Drawing Xo. 131. 1. MATERIAL. Serine a piece of mild steel, about IV4" diameter, 131/2" long, and machine so that it will finish to the dimensions indicated in drawing. Before centering, see that the shaft is straight. If it is bent or twisted in any way, straighten it. After you have located the center marks, place the shaft on centers and revolve it by hand. WTien it is running as nearly true as possible, then drill center holes. 2. CENTERING. For centering, follow instruc- tions in Job No. 1. except that in centering a piece of steel, oil should be used on the center drill. 3. TURNING. Select a common dog of suit- able size. Face both ends of shaft, then with a diamond point tool take a rough turning cut on the diameter, allowing the tool to cut within about 3" of the dog. Then transpose the dog and shaft, run the tool back, and complete the roughing cut on the opposite end. In turning a long shaft, it is very necessary that the machined or turned part is parallel. This should be tested carefully, and it any taper is indi- cated, tail .stock should be adjusted and a light chip taken, until the |iiece is exactly parallel. It is necessary that the student finish .Job No. 6 exactly to the dimensions shown in drawing so he may become familiar in working accurately to dimensions. Job No. 6 is now machined in the rough, and is to be further machined as the grinder spindle, as shown in Jobs No. 7, No. 8 and No. 9. Note the depth of the centers shown in drawing, and see that your centers conform to these dimensions. In turning a piece of steel, it will be noticed that the chijjs curl more, and that the tool becomes heated more, than in turning cast iron; therefore, a little slower speed should be used, and the turn- ing tool should be watched more carefully, to see that it does not dull. Before machining a piece on centers in the lathe, see that the centers line up, as per cut here- with. B'or further description see Section -16 of Lathe Book. 1 „ 3" 1 — 'J 8 3" iZ ± . \ - 60° H - <^ '32 — 1 3" [32 |5' 5' '32 32 Job No. 6 Maferial - Mild Steel. Df^AWIHa A/o. /3 / \P/IRT No. 31 SPINDLE Scale Work to fiquret No Piecfs Required - 1 SOUTH BEND L»TH£ W0HK3 South B e x d Lathe Works, South Ben d, I n » i a x a Job No. 7. Part Xo. 31. Drawing No. 1.31-A. 1. MATERIAL. For Job Xo. 7 use the shaft that has been machined in Job. No. 6. Take a turning chip that will reduce the diame- ter within :,'^" over size, the entire length of spin- dle. The large diameter of this spindle is to be fitted to spindle pulley, but we cannot do this fitting until the spindle pulley is machined. 2. LOCATING THE SHOULDERS. When we reduce a shaft in diameter at one or more places, we use a cutting-off tool to locate the shoulder. (See illustration Figure "T," page .515.) Fasten the cutting-off tool in the tool post. Be sure to see that the tool has clearance on both sides. Move the cutting-off tool until the farther side is 3%" from the end of shaft, that is, within ,',." of the finished length. Now start the lathe, and with a spring caliper in the right hand, and left hand feeding the cutting-off tool forward, take a light chip, using oil on the cutting edge of the tool. Feed carefully until the proper diameter is reached, which will be indicated by the caliper. This diame- ter should be about j-.j" larger than the finished size. Then withdraw the tool, transpose the driving dog and shaft, and repeat the shoulder op- eration on the other end of shaft. Locate the two inside shoulders in the same manner. 3. TURNING. With a Turning Tool, reduce each end of the shaft to about 1/64" larger in di- ameter than the dimensions called for. Then take a chip over the center of the grinder shaft, re- ducing the diameter to about 1/32" larger than the drawing calls for. 4. TURNING FOR THREAD, WHEEL, AND FLANGE DIAMETER. Note that the length of thread is IVo" from either end of spindle, but that the %" diameter extends 2,',;" from the end. This dimension includes the length of thread, plus thickness of emery wheel and outside fiange. The diameters .752" for press fit are to accommo- date the inside fianges, which should fit fairly tight on the shoulder. This diameter we cannot ma- chine to a finish until inside flanges are bored. (See Job No. 12, page 37.) The two bearings are 1" in diameter and 2/1." long. These can be fin- ished to size at any time. The 1%" diameter is for the pulley. This diameter should not be fin- ished until the pulley has been bored. ( See Pulley Job No. 10. page 32.1 5. As we cannot finish the press fit for the inside flanges, nor the diameter where pulley fits, until the flanges and pulley are machined, we can go ahead with the thread cutting. It the student has had no experience in thread cutting, we suggest that the instructor secure a number of pieces of %" shafting, about 6" long, and have each student practice cutting short threads on one of the shafts before he attempts cutting the thread on spindle. 26 3" ■ i" I .1" ^ Drill 52 ' 8 deep. .752 -^ 1 3 1" ^or press fit 16 2fe •r 16 16 '16 Job No 7 Material -Mild Steel. No Pieces Rei^uireel - 1 DRfimiie No.I3I-m\pmrt no. 31 SPINDLE. Scale WorH to figures. SOUTH BEND LATHE WORKS. South Bekd Lathe Works. South Bend, Indiana Job No. S. Part Xo. 81. DrawiriQ No. l.ll-B. 1. MATERIAI.. For Job Xo. S we use the shaft machined in ,Iolj Xo. 7. Cut a %" x 10 U. S. Standard Thread, right hand, on one end. a. GEARIXG LATHE. For thread cutting see Sections 38 and 39 of Lathe Book for selecting gears to secure the desired pitch. Also see Rule. Section 45, of Lathe Book: "Gearing Any Engine Lathe for Screw Cutting." 3. SETTLXG THE THREAD TOOL. For set- ting the thread tool, see Section 40 and 41 of Lathe Book. We recommend a tool similar to the Patent Threading Tool, shown in Section 2S of Lathe Book. 4. LEXGTH OF THREAD. The length of thread to be cut, as shown in drawing, is 1%". Measure this distance from the end of the shaft, and make a prick punch mark. Then, with a i^" drill, drill a hole Vg" deep, using this prick punch mark as a center. Attach a common lathe dog to the grinder spindle, and place it on the centers. Be sure to put oil on your tail center, and clamp the tail spindle. Xow set the threading tool, with the point opposite center of the hole you have ,1ust drilled, where the thread terminates. Then with a center gauge, line the tool up properly as in Section 41 of Lathe Book, drawing Figure 1.^. The height of the cutting edge of the threading tool should be even with the axis or point of the lathe center. Fasten the thread-cutting stop to the saddle, as explained in Section 40 of Lathe Book. Clamp the half nuts on the lead screw, re- verse the countershaft. This will run the carriage back until the thread cutting tool reaches about Vs" beyond the end of the grinder spindle. 5. FIRST CHIP. Before taking the first chip, study Section 42 of Lathe Book. See that the lathe dog is fastened securely to the grinder spindle, and that the threading tool is fastened; then pro- ceed with the first chip, allowing the tool to Just merely scratch the sjundle. Stop the lathe before the tool reaches the hole, showing the end of cut. This hole was drilled so as to allow the tool to fin- ish the end of each chip. Then finish the chip by turning the spindle cone slowly forward, by pull- ing on the belt by hand. 6. In removing a threaded piece from the lathe for testing the thread, never detach the dog from this piece. Do not even change the position of the dog. Always mark the slot in the face plate in which the dog was iilaced, while the thread is being cut. Replace the tail of the dog in the same slot, when you put the job back on centers to re- new the thread cutting. For testing thread, see instructions in .loh 9. 3" 138 3'- 10 Thread) H H US S 4 for Caye Hardened Hexafon hlui Nc 45 Job No. 8 Matarial - Mild Steel. No. Pieces Heijutrad - I DRflWINa N0.I3I-B PART No. 31 SPINDLE Scale iNorK to figures SOUTH BEND LflTHE WOHXS. South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana Job Xo. 9. Part No. 31. Drawind No. 131-G. 1. ilATERIAL. For Job No. 9 we use the spindle machined in Job No. S. We are to cut a %"xlO U. S. Standard Thread, left hand, on the other end of spindle. For cutting this thread, we use the same arrangement of gearing as we did for cutting the thread in Job No. 8. •2. CUTTING LEFT HAND THREAD. Do not let the screw of the dog come in contact with the thread, but select an old nut %" x 10" right hand thread. With a hand hack saw, split one side of the nut through into the hole, and half way into the other side. Then place this nut on the threaded end of shaft and fasten securely with a clamp dog. In this manner we can drive the threaded shaft without injuring the thread. 3. THREAD TOOL. Use the same thread tool and set in the same manner as vou did in Job No. 8. 4. LENGTH OF THREAD. Drill a hole about tn" in diameter, and about ,',(" deep, 1%" from the end of the spindle. This hole will be the starting point of each chip in cutting the left hand thread. Adjust the reverse lever in the head stock, so that when the split nut is clamped on the lead screw and the shipper rod is thrown forward toward the head end of the lathe, the spindle cone of lathe will revolve, the top of the cone rotating in the direction of the operator, feed from left to right. Then the carriage should 5. CUTTING THE THREAD. Set your thread tool and use the adjustable stop exactly as you did in Job No. 8, and proceed with the first chip. The carriage will now move to the right instead of the left, and when the thread tool reaches a point at least Vg" beyond the end of spindle, reverse the shipper rod. This will reverse the direction of travel of the carriage until the thread tool reaches the hole or starting point. Then arrange for depth of second chip. Start in carefully, taking a light chip. Continue this operation until the thread is finished. Use plenty of oil on the thread tool: lard oil is preferred. (i. TESTING THE THREAD. Use the nut in- tended for the threaded part as a gauge. When you think the thread about finished, remove the spindle from centers, and try the nut on thread. Do not strain the thread, the nut should go on half of its depth with very little pressure. Examine the thread after you remove the nut. to see if the thread has a perfect bearing. When the thread is cut on both ends of the spindle, chamfer off the ends as shown in drawing. (35 -1-JO Threads L.H U.SS. A- for Case Hardened Hexagon Nut No. 46. Dr.ll g for Set Scren Ho 48. Job No. 9 Material - Mild Steel. No. Pieces Required - I DnnwiNG N0.131-C PaHT No. 31 SPIK/DLC Scale WorK to figures. SOUTH BEND LBTHE iVOnKS. South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana Job No. 10. Part No. 32. Drawing No. 132. 1. JOB. A cast iron pulley is to be iiiacliined to the dimensions as sliown on drawing. 2. CHUCKING OPERATION. Attach a 6", 3-jaw Universal Geared Scroll Chuck to the spin- dle nose of lathe, and fasten the casting in the chuck. (See explanation drawing Fig. K, page 58.) S. FACI.VG. ITse a round nose tool, and face the end of pulley to the depth of about ,',;" below scale. 4. CENTERING. Place a centering tool in the tool post, and locate the center of the pulley, adjusting the tool so that it is ajiproximately at the center. Take a light chip, moving the tool so that when it begins to cut, it will show the exact cen- ter, and will machine a countersunk hole about %" deep. ( See drawing. Section 7S, page aS, Lathe Book.) The hole in this pulley could have been cored but we left the casting solid, for practice. 5. DRILLING. Use a 1" Straight Shank Twist Drill, held by a drill chuck in tail s|iindle. Drill a hole through the pulley, feeding by hand wheel of tailstock. 6. BORING. With a boring tool, take a chip about 1/32" through the pulley, or deep enough to true up the hole. Follow with another finishing chip about 1/64" deep. Then follow with a ream- er, reaming the hole to size. It should be borne in mind that this pulley is to lit the spindle. I See Job No. 9. 1 7. FINISH ON ARBOR. Remove the pulley from the chuck, and press it on to a I'-s" arbor: the arbor entering the hole at the machined end of pulley. Place a drop of oil or grease on the arbor, and spread it thoroughly with the hand, so when the pulley is machined, the arbor may be pressed out easily. Never place a steel arbor into a cast iron piece, unless either the hole or the arbor has been oiled slightly, because if it has not been lu- bricated, the pulley is liable to cut when driving it off the arbor. 8. Attach a dog and place the job on centers. ( See drawing Figure "V," page "iT, Pulley on Arbor.) Take a roughing cut over the diameter of pulley, and face up both ends to the proper dimensions. 9. TURNING TAPER. Set the tailstock off center, to get the required taper or crown of pul- ley. (See Section 46 of Lathe Book.) After re- quired taper is found, take a chip off of one end. Then remove the dog, and place it on the opposite end of the arbor. Place the job back on cen- ters, and take a chip on this end. Repeat the oper- ation until the pulley is machined to the proper dimensions. Tap drill ,j Tap g - 16 Threads for Headhi3 Set Scren Job No 10 Material - C aaf Iron. No Pieces Hetfuired - J DRflVVII^i; No /3Z\ P»FIT No 3Z SPINDLE PULLEY Scale Worn to tiqures. SOUTH BEt^D LATHE WOnriS South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana Job No. 11. Part No. .39. Drawing No. 139. 1 . Mount a 6", 3-jaw Universal Geared Scroll Chuck on the lathe. Fasten the flange casting in chuck, gripping it Ijy the small shoulder. (See il- lustration Figure "S," page 57.) Be sure to see that the flange runs true, not only on the outside diameter, but the hole should also run true. If the hole is not concentric with the outside diame- ter of the flange, then measure the amount of stock to be removed from hole, and the amount of stock fi-om the outside diameter of the flange, and adjust the chuck so that both the hole and outside diame- ter can be machined true in the same chucking. When the flange runs true in the chuck, with a round nose tool, take a roughing chip on face of flange; then a finishing chip. Then a slight rough- ing chip on large diameter of flange, and a finish- ing chip. Adjust round nose tool and take a recess- ing chip on face of flange. (See Figure "S," page 57, Tool "B.") Place a boring tool in the tool post (see Tool "C") raid take a roughing chip through hole; then a finishing chip, until within 1/64" of size. Then finish with a %" Standard Reamer. 2. TURNING FLANGE ON ARBOR. Remove flange from the chuck, and press it tightly on a %" arbor. Attach a dog to the arbor, and place the job on centers. Set the compound rest on an angle of IJi-degrees. (See illustration Figure "H," page 57.) Use a tool having a very small round nose, and take a roughing chip on the angle part of flange; then a roughing chip on the diameter of flange and hub; then a finishing chip on both flange and hub. With a side tool, face the small hub and inside of flange. :$. FILING AND POLISHING. Allow the job to remain on centers, and release the tail stock center slightly, so the arbor will run perfectly free. Put a drop of oil on the tail center point. Run the lathe spindle at next to the highest speed, and with a mill file, smooth up carefully the out- side diameter, the angle surface, and the small hub of flange. You may round the corners slightly, but not the corner of the large diameter of the face of flange. To polish a piece of cast iron in the lathe, take a strip of emery cloth about the width of a file, put a few drops of oil on the cloth. Then holding the cloth against the file, polish the flange while it is revolving. Keep plenty of oil on the emery cloth. This will produce a fine, polished surface, and the oil will prevent rusting. 34 Job No 11 Material - Cast Iron No Pieces Required OUTSIDE F LUNGE. Scale ^.Worh to figures SOUTH BEND LHTHEl WORKS. South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana Job No. 12. Part No. :|S. Drawing No. 138. For machining Job No. 12 follow instructions given in Job No. 11. except that the flange angle on Job No. 12 is 10 degrees, while Job No. 11 was 13 degrees. Also note that Job No. 12 has a grooved hub, while the hul) on .lob No. 11 was plain. When the flange has been machined and is still on arbor, with a t\" round nose tool, machine a groove ts" wide and about 3^2" deep, in the center of hub, as shown in drawing. The object of this groove is to prevent the oil from the bearings from running up on the flange, while the emery wheel is in motion. File and iiolish the flange as de- scribed in Job No. 1 1. After a job has been bored in a chuck, and then placed on an arbor, all sui-faces should again be machined if an accurate job is I'equired. The inside flanges for the grinder spindle should fit up close to the shoulders of spindle, so that when assembled on the spindle and placed in the grinder head, there should be a slight play be- tween the hubs of the two flanges and the outer ends of bearings on head; that is, there should be a visible slight end motion, not exceeding 1/64". Removing a Job front Arbor In removing a job from the arbor, or driving the arbor out of the job, care should be taken to see that the arbor is driven out of the job from the small end, as one end of all arbors or mandrels is smaller than the other end. The size of the man- drel is usually marked on the large end. In driving a mandrel into or out of a pulley, be careful not to batter or jamb the end of the arbor, because if the center hole or outside diameter of the arbor is battered, then the arbor will not run true, and if the arbor does not run absohitely true, you cannot machine an accurate job on it. A babbitt hammer or a wooden mallet would best serve as a driver. A small cast iron anvil, similar to that shown in Figure "W" here- with, would make an excel- lent anvil for arbor work, and it will also be found useful for other work in the ma- chine sho]). 36 Job Nc. 12. Materia/ ~ C ast Iron /Vo. Pieces Rrifuirei INSIDE FLANGE Scale Work to figures. SOUTH BENU L»TMC YVORKS. SofTH BExn Lathe Works. South Bend, Indiana Job No. 13. Part Xo. 30. Drawinq No. 130. 1 . Drawings on page 39 show the grinder head caps. 2. Clean the casting and remove all sand and grit. 3. The six anchor holes "B" should be drilled according to drawing, so that when the babbitt is poured, it enters these holes, and there forms an anchor to hold the babbitt in the cap. Drill the six anchor holes in each cap. also six similar anchor holes for holding the babbitt for each bear- ing in the grinder head. 4. Locate the position of the cap screw holes for attaching caps to grinder head. Note that the centers of these holes are 2Vs" apart. Chalk the surface where the holes are to be drilled. Rub this chalked surface with the finger, and with the dividers locate the centers of the boss of each hole. Make a prick punch mark at each center, and scribe a %" circle. Make six prick punch marks en the circumference of each circle, (see drawing Fig. "U"). Next make a deep center punch mark on the center of each circle. The cen- ter distance should be 2%". ® Fiq. U 5. Use a %" drill in the chuck in head spin- dle, and a drill pad in the tail stock. Let the point of the drill enter about i",;" in each circle. See if the hole is going to be concentric with the circular la.v-out. If it is not. then with a prick punch drive the center of the hole in the proper direction in order to be concentric. Remove a little more stock with the drill, and test again. When the drill hole is concentric with the lay-out, drill both holes. Now with a counterbore, having a %" pilot, remove j^" stock, so that the head of the cap screw w-ill rest on a machined surface. 6. Locate the hole in the top of cap for oil cup. This hole should be in about the center of the boss. Use a 17/64" drill. Do not tap the oil hole at this time, because it is through this hole that the babbitt is poured. After babbitt is poured, then redrill this hole, re- moving the babbitt, and tap for oil cup. 7. Some of the holes drilled in grinder and cap could perhaps be done to better advantage on a drill press. Our instructions are to drill these parts in the lathe, assuming that there is no drill press in the shop equipment. 3S South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana Job No. 11. Part No. 29. Drawins Xo. 129. 1. The drawing on page 41 shows three views of the grinder head casting, also an en- larged view of one of the boxes, or bearings. 2. Clean the casting thoroughly. Remove all sand, gates and sprues, inside as well as outside. 3. To drill the necessary holes in the grinder head, for lag screws to hold the grinder to the bench, and holes for safety guards, make a jig of wood, similar to that shown in drawing Figure "P," page .56. This jig should be about 12" long. Let it rest on two strips of wood, each about 2 feet long, so they will rest on the front and rear of lathe saddle. 4. The caps machined in Job Xo. 1.3 should now be fitted to the grinder head. Chalk the top of the grindei- head where the holes are to be drilled for cap screws. Hold or clamp the cap firmly to the head, and with a scratch-awl mark through the holes in cap and locate the position of the holes on grinder head. When one hole has been located for each cap, remove the caps, lay out these holes with six prick punch marks on the circle, find the center of the circle, as per drawing page 3S, and make a deep punch mark at this cen- ter. Then mark the right hand cap and right hand box with a prick i)unch, so you can replace cap on its own bearing each time. Also make two center ])unch marks on the front on the other cap and box. 5. Use a fj." drill. Drill only one hole in each bearing. Tap the holes and fasten each cap with one screw. Then with a %" drill, using the hole in the cap as a jig, spot the other hole for each cap in the grinder head, letting the point of the drill enter the casting only about ,'„". Now re- move both caps, and with a f.." drill, finish both holes. Tap both holes and attach both caps. (J. When the caps are attached, see that they fit nicely on the grinder head. They should not lap over, neither on the sides nor ends. If they do, remove the lap with a file. 7. If more than one grinder at a time is being made, number each cap and each bearing in serial, so you can attach each cap to its own bearing. 8. Locate the position of holes through which grinder is clamped to the bench, and drill them, (see drawing Fig. P, page .5i5). The position of the holes for safety guards can not be located until grinder is complete and the emery wheels attached. Then place the safety guards in position, so they fit properly over the emery wheels, and mark through the slots of the base. ENLffOaZD VIEW OF BE/tniNC BKBBITrCD South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana Job No. 10. Part No. Special. Job No. Ifi drawing shows the small parts that we use in the babbitting jig, which is described in Job Xo. 17. Make lour shims of cardboard, -}r," thick. I See drawing on opposite page.) One of these shims is placed under each side of each cap to allow for wear, because after two or three years, when the spindle bearings wear, these shims are removed and thinner shims are inserted to take up the wear. The shims as shown do not indicate the holes for the screws. This is because we first use these shims as part of the babbitting jig, and afterward we cut the hole for the screw and use the shims in the grinder. One of these shims shows an opening on one side, through which the babbitt is poured, as e.x- plained later. The four cast iron collars shown are bored to 1" and faced on one end. They are also recessed r,'^" deep, 1|',;" diameter. The object of this re- cess is that when babbitt is jioured, it will fill into this space, which will allow it to project g'j" be- yond the bearing. The 1" cold rolled shaft, shown in drawing is what we call the babbitting bar. This shaft should be straight and true. It should be 1" in diameter, not .01)1" ovei- or .Oii2" less. In placing this shaft in the babbitting jig, the center of shaft should be about l/ti4" higher than the top of the bearing of grinder head. The reason is that the shim is ^:," thick, therefore when the grinder spindle is fitted to the bearing, the center or a.xis of the spindle will be in line with the cen- ter of the shim. Scraping the Boxes After the bearings in grinder head have been babbitted, the bearings of the spindle being finished, place some red lead on the spindle bearings, and put the spindle in the grinder head; revolving it slowly by hand. This will show the high spots. Then with a scraper, using a halt round file, ground smooth and with a cutting edge, scrape the high spots until the spindle has a thorough bearing. This scraping should be done before the grind- er caps are babbitted. After the grinder caps are babbitted, they should be tested and scraped in the same manner. In babbitting a large bearing, we usually paint the babbitting shaft with graphite, in paste form, but the bearings of this grinder are small, and will not need a coat of graphite. Tap drill f^ ' Tap g • 16 Thds for Headless Set Screw. -Cast Iron 32 /■ 2, -.1 _ . 7' 16 1 — r^ ■ T /pnll -; * L Fibre Sf 32 16 32 h ^ - 9 R 1 X 32 32 -Co/d fl£>//ei^ 5/fe/. Joi No IS Dnn\NING /Vo 206 PMRTNo Special DETAILS OF BflBBlTTING JIG. Scale Work to figures SOUTH BENB LATHE WORKS- South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana Job No. 17. Babbitting Jiq. Make a wood frame, as shown on opposite drawing Figure "X." Make it large enough so that the grinder frame can be easily placed inside. Place the grinder head in the wooden frame and place babbitting shaft on the V ways. Shim up under grinder head with cardboard shims "BB," until the grinder bearings are concentric and paral- lel to the babbitting shaft. The top of the grinder bearings should be 1/G4" below the center of the babbitting shaft. Now clamp the grinder head to the wood frame. Measure again to see that the bearing space of the grinder head is concentric and parallel with the shaft at both ends. Remove the shaft and place on it the four adjustable col- lars, setting each collar as close up to the bear- ings as possible. The dimensions are shown on drawing. Now with a piece of wood, plug up the four cap screw holes on grinder head. Place the four cardboard shims on top of bearings, so they will fit tight up against the shaft and inside both collars. Fasten each shim to the wood plug with a tack. With a piece of clay or putty, make a ringed dam "E." as shown, between tlie ends of bearings and collars. These dams are merely to prevent the babbitt from running out of the mould. If the babbitt has a tendency to run out of the mould at any point, simply make a dam to prevent it. .Make another dam "F" on the top of shim. (See Figure "X" also Plan View. I This dam laps over on to the shaft. It is through this dam, through the hole "G" that the babbitt is poured to fill the bottom bearing. Before pouring the mould see that the babbitt is hot, not red hot. but hot enough to singe or scorch a pine stick, ilake a test by immersing the stick into the molten babbitt. There are a num- ber of small anchor holes in the bearings of the mold, and if the metal is of the right temperature, it will flow readily and fill every crevice and anchor in the mould. If the babbitt does not fill the mould perfectly, the babbitt was not hot enough. In this case remove the babbitt and pour again. Do not attempt to pour both boxes with one ladle of babbitt as the metal cools quickly. Get a fresh supply in ladle for each box. When both lower boxes have been babbitted, place new shims on all the bearings and attach the caps, screwing them down tight on the shims. Dam up between the ends of caps and collars. ( See Figure "Y.") Now make a center dam "N" over this hole. When both caps are babbitted, re- move the dam. placing a dog on the end of the babbitting shaft. Loosen the set screws in each collar and remove the shaft by a pulling, twisting movement. .\'ow ti'im up the ends of each box. For sci'aping boxes, see page 42. B E r 6 £ G C E B in u n rt /y u BABBITTING JIG JOB No. 17 SOUTH BEND LATHE WORKS Plan VieuJ %. X Enlarged Section of F ' P/an Vieiu Fiq. Y M K N M rig. X End View Fi^. X South Bexd Lathe Works. South Bend, Indiana Job No. 15. Part No. 30. 1. DRILUXG HOLES FOR REST BRACK- ETS. Place the grimier head on two wooden cleats on top of saddle, one end ot the cored hole on the head center and the other end on the tail cen- ter of lathe, thus lining up the cored hole, shim up under the grinder head, if necessary. Clamii grinder head to saddle if you wish. Now remove head center, and with a 47/64" drill in chuck {see drawing), start drilling. The drill should revolve slowly. With the right hand feeding by hand wheel of tail stock and the left hand operating the carriage wheel and the tail center still in cored hole, drill three-quarter way through the casting. Now replace the tail center with a drill pad. a piece of wood between drill pad and grinder, finish drilling the hole. Then size the hole with a %" standard reamei-. .Machine the other hole in the same way. The two small side holes, through which set screws pass to fasten the bracket, may be drilled by using the same cleats as for drilling the bracket holes. bracket hole, using the tail stock wheel to teed, holding the grinder casting with the left hand. When the hole is drilled, reverse position of the grinder casting, and drill a similar hole in the oppo- site end of casting. Xow tap the holes with a %", Ifi-thread, right hand U. S. Standard Tap, running through first with a taper tap, and finishing with a plug tap, using a hand tap wrench. It will not be necessary, in drilling these holes, to clamp the casting to the lathe carriage. Sim- ply turn the grinder head around, place a fg" drill in the chuck, lay out the position of the hole in the end of boss nn casting, and drill through into the For castings and material in the rough, also supplies, etc., for building the S-inch Bench Emery Grinder, see page 5o. South Bend Lathe Works. Soi'th B io n n, I x u i a .\ a Job No. 18. Part Xo. l.> and Hi. Drawinii No. 1 H). To make a nut, secure a piece of cold drawn hexagon steel, 1%" across the tlats. Place this material in a 3-Jaw Universal Geared Scroll Chuck, letting it extend far enough from the chuck so that two nuts can be made in one chucking. Face the end of the material, locate the center, then with a %" drill in the tail stock of chuck, bore a hole for a depth of two nuts. Tlien cham- fer the end, and with a cutting-oft tool, cut the nut the desired length. Repeat this operation on the second nut. Then place the nut back in the chuck, and with a %", 10-thread right hand V. S. Stand- ard Taper Tap, held on tail centers by a monke.v wrench, let the end of this tap enter the hole of the nut. (See drawing Figure "E," page .58.) t'se plenty of oil on the tap. Then with the right hand feeding the ta|), and the left hand pulling the belt, slowly feed the tap through the nut. Using the grinder spindle as an arbor on centers, face the nuts true on both ends. Perhaps it would be much better to buy these nuts, rather than make them. The %" right hand nut can be purchased from the hardware store, and perhaps the %" left hand nut also. If not, we can furnish them, finished complete and hardeneil, at a nominal jirice. Tafi drill g-Tapj-IOTh'ds U.SS L H ^ Tapdnll l-Tap j-IOTh'Js US 5 R H Job No. 18 Mafrnal-Mild Stre/. . ^^ , ^c Firces T^rou'rcd -^ pffcA Dni^^isQ No.i46\paRrNo45f4& RfL H.SPINULE HEXKHON NUT. Scalf VJorK to figures 50UTH BC.'iD Lf^THE noHHS. South B e ^- u Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana Job No. 27. Part No. 107. Drawing No. 207 1. JIATERIAL. A l.athe Mandrel is usually made of crucible or tool steel, so it may be hard- ened and tempered all over. However, (or large mandrels, mild steel may be used instead of cru- cible, especially when an arbor is over %" di- ameter, not excessive in length, and where it i.^; not subjected to rough, heavy work. If carbon steel cannot be secured easily, we can use mild steel with good results. Select a piece of mild steel, TVs" long. Cen- ter both ends, place on centers and face both ends. Take a roughing chip over the entire diameter. With a facing tool on an angle, recess both ends of the arbor to a depth of 1/32". Let this recess extend about V2" in diameter. The ob- ject of this recess is that in driving a pulley or ring on to the arbor, or driving the arbor out of this pulley or ring, when the mallet comes in con- tact with the end of the arbor, it will not jamb or destroy the center hole. Xow reduce the diameter for a distance of %" on each end, as shown. The object of this reduc- tion is to have a suitable place to attach the driving dog. Then file a flat place on both shoulders for the dog set screw to screw against. Xow harden and temper the mandrel all over. If the material is crucible steel, for hardening and tempering follow instructions shown in section 62, page 46, of Lathe Book. If the arbor is made of mild steel, case harden both ends only as far as the shoulders. Follow instructions shown in section 64, page 46, of Lathe Book. The mandrel has a slight taper, the small end of the fitting surface, finishing .001" under the standard dimensions — 1%"; while the other end finishes .002" above the standard dimensions. Therefore there is a difference of .003" on the fit- ting diameter of the arbor, on a length of 5i^". This is to allow a piece to be driven off and on an arbor easily, and always from the same end. Where arbors or lathe mandrels are made in quantity, the fitting diameter is finished by grind- ing; the mandrels are placed on centers in a s|)e- cial grinding machine, and revolve slowly, and are finished by a swiftly revolving emery wheel. A mild steel mandrel can, however, be finished very accurately by turning, and then filing and polish- ing with emery cloth. It requires care and accur- ate measurement with a micrometer caliper. 48 Job /Vo. 27 Material - Carhon Steel. 1^0- Pieces Recfu/red - 1 D»finme No. Z07\ PnRT No. 107 Li INCH MANDREL Scale Worii to fijitrrs SOUTH BE.ND LflTHC kV0fiA5. South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, Indiana Job No. 30. Part No. 109. Drawing No. 209. 1. MACHIXIXG CHUCK PLATE. The draw- ing on the ojiposite page describes a cliuck plate, required in fitting a lathe chuck to a lathe. Tliis chuck plate is to be bored and threaded to fit the spindle nose of the 15" South Bend Lathe. The diameter "A" is to fit the recess in the back of chuck. If there is only one lathe in the shop, and chuck is to be fitted to this lathe, then it would be necessary to swing the chuck plate on the large face plate. (See face plate .iob, page 5S.) Be- fore (•lamping chuck plate to face plate securely, bring the tail stock center up, and the tail center will tend to center the chuck plate. Now revolve the lathe slowly, and hold a piece of chalk to the hub of the chuck ])late, until it runs true; then clamp securely to the face plate. Take a chip on the face of the hub, and with a boring tool bore to the proper diameter, which is the bottom of the thread on spindle nose. JIachine the recess to a diameter slightly in excess of the unthreaded diameter of spindle nose. 3. THREADING. Set the Threading Tool (as shown in Figure 16, page 30, of book "How to Run a Lathe"). Set the ad.iustable stop to depth of thread and proceed with the thread cutting, taking light chips. WTien you think the proper depth of thread has been reached, unscrew the face plate. and without disturbing the chuck plate on the face plate, try the threaded part of the chuck plate on the spindle nose. If the chuck plate will not screw on spindle, take another chip and repeat this oper- ation until the chuck plate screws snugly on the spindle nose. Chuck plate being fitted, remove it from the face plate, screw it on to spindle nose firmly up against the shoulder. Put a couple drops of oil on threaded part of chuck plate, before screwing it on spindle nose. Then machine the diameter "A" to fit the recess of the chuck to be fitted. Use care in making this fit. Round the corners slightly with a file, on the face of diameter "A," where the bottom fits into the chuck recess. When this fit is properly made, then place some red lead or chalk on the bottom of the entire recess of the chuck. Now press the chuck plate into re- cess. Wake a center punch mark on the chuck plate and on the chuck, so that you will know the position to replace the chuck plate after holes are drilled. Rap chuck plate several times with a wooden mallet. Remove the chuck plate, and you will find indicated the proper position of the holes through which chuck screws pass. Drill these holes about A." larger in diameter than the bolts or screws. Place the chuck plate back in recess of chuck, according to the center punch marks, at- tach your screws, and chuck is fitted ready for use. 50 Machine R-to AfcfiucK- Z4-8 Th^ds y^ U.S.S.l^H. Job No. 30. Material - Cast Iron No. Pieces Hei^uirecl- J SfiHwitiS rJo.209 PHRT No. 109 CHUCK PLATE /or 15" LRTHE Scale V^orH to /igures. SOUTH BCND LRTHE: tYoffKS. South Bend Lathe Wobks, South Bend, Indiana Painting and Assembling the Grinder The grinder should be painted after all machine work has been done. The castings have already been cleaned of all sand, sprues, etc., before machining. Before applying a coat of paint, be sure that all trace of oil and grease has been removed from the grinder head. Then apply a coat of paint, good quality, any color will serve. This is what we call the priming coat. After the priming coat is dry, apply a coat of iron filler. This filler comes prepared in a form something similar to a soft, wet clay. The tiller should be cut with turpentine until it resembles a paste as thick as can be applied easily with a brush. Paint the entire casting with a coat of this filler, with the exception of the machined surfaces. The coat will dry in from four to ten hours, depending upon the drying properties of the filler. When dry, rub down w'ith coarse sandpaper in such a manner that you sand only the high spots. Then apply an- other coat of filler. When this is dry, sand again. If you wish the machine to look unusually nice, you should apply at least four coats of filler, and sand after each coat. After the casting has been filled, apply a coat of sealer. This may be an oil-proof paint, or an enamel. Enamel makes the best sealer, because it is oil-proof, and it levels evenly. The color may be black, dark blue, or dark green. When the seal- er or oil-proof coat of paint is dry. then assemble the machine. For painting the bracket heads, the angle and T rests, follow the same instructions as given for painting the grinder head. ASSEMBLING. After the painted parts are dry, assemble the machine. In assembling, place the end of the spindle having the left hand nut on the left hand end of the frame. The reason is, that when the emery wheels are revolving, the nuts should fasten in the direction of the rotation of the emery wheel, because the greater the speed, the greater the tendency to tighten the nuts, whereas, if the direction of the thread was reversed, the tendency would be to loosen the nuts. When the machine is assembled apply a finish- ing coat of velvet black, preferably a dull velvet shade. S o T T H Bend Lathe Works. South Bend, I x d i a n a Safety Guards for Fernery Wheels The drawing herewith shows safety guards tor guarding the emery wheels. These guards are made of malleable or cast iron. Malleable iron is recommended. The guards are used in pairs, right and left. There is no difference in the design or the con- struction, except in the base. When making the pattern, disconnect the pattern at the base, using a right and left base, so that one large pattern will serve for the hoods. There is no machine work done on these guards. All that is necessary is to sand and paint them. INFORMATION ON EMERY WHEELS 1— SOUND wheels before MOUNTING to de- tect possible IN.TURY in TRANSIT. 2 — Never FORCE wheels on spindles 3 — Use RELIEVED flanges where possible. 4— Avoid UNNECESSARY tightening of flanges. 5 — Keep rest CLOSE to wheel. 6— Keep wheels TRUE. 7— Keep BEARINGS adjusted. S — Have Grinder on SOLID foundation. South Bend Lathe Woeks, South Bend, Indiana Manufacturing in the School Shop Several of the larger manual training schools have already started to manufacture in a small way. From our experience in manufacturing, we know that it is possible for the manual training schools to make something of commercial value in their shops, and the time will come when all manual training schools will require the students to work on something useful, something that can be sold, and a sum can be realized from the sale, at least sufficient to cover the cost of the materia! and supplies. The Bench Grinder illustrated and described in this little text book, is a useful tool. It can be made in quantity in the school shop, and sold to other school shops. It can also be sold to the machinery trade. A large machine shop equipment is not neces- sary for building the S-inch Bench Grinder. The entire work can be done on a 1.5" South Bend Lathe. If the school equipment includes a drill press, milling machine and shaper, the work can be done to better advantage. If the grinder countershaft is wanted, we can supply the castings and all parts in the rough, to- gether with the necessary drawings and blue prints for the machining of these parts. A drawing of the countershaft may be seen on page 60. We claim no patent on this grinder. Anyone who wishes to make the machine in part or whole, has our permission. We shall be glad to supply them with text books. The work may be divided into four departments as follows: • 1. DRAWING ROGIM. The students may make a complete set of drawings, using this text book as a guide. 2. PATTER.X ROO.M. A complete set of working patterns can be made from the above drawings. 3. FOUNDRY AND CORE ROOM. A complete set of cores and castings can be made up if the school has the necessary equipment. 4. MACHINE SHOP. This text book illustrates and describes in detail, the machining of the grinder. 54 S o I' T II Bend Lathe Works, S o t; t ii K e x d, Indiana Gastinos and Supplies for S-Inch Bonch Emery (nluder For the accommodation of schools who wish to build the Tool Room Grinder, and are not in a position to make ])atterns or to secure the neces- sar.v castings, steel, etc., we shall be pleased to supply all the parts and material in the rough, as per the following list: For explanation of part numbers and names, see drawing, page S. PART NO. NAME 23 Machine Bolts 29 Grinder Head ;») Caps (2) 31 Spindle 32 Spindle Pulley 33 Rest Brackets. I. (2) 34 "T" Rest 35 "T" Rest Bracket 3G Angle Rest 37 Angle Rest Bracket 38 Inside Flanges (2) 39 Outside Flanges (2) 40-41 Safety Guard, R and L 43 Safety Guard Screws (4) 45-4G Hexagon Xuts, R. & L. H. for Spindle 47 Fillister Head Cap Screws for Bearings(4 48 Headless Set Screw for Spindle Pulley 49 Sq. Head Set Screws for Rest Brackets(6) 50 Oil Cups (2) 51 Emery Wheels (2) We can also furnish parts and supplies as follows: Lathe Tools Lathe Dogs Babbitt Metal Babbitt Heater Babbitt Ladle Shims for Babbitting Babbitting Collars, Rough or Finished Babbitting Bar, Rough or Finished IVs" Arbor, Rough or Finished %" Arbor, Rough or Finished Semi-Machined Chuck Plate Chuck Arbor, Rough or Finished A full set of working blue prints, 6V2" x 9" For prices of all material, castings, etc.. in the rough, write for special circular mailed free on request. Address South Bend Lathe Works, Grinder Dept., 428 E. Madison Street, South Bend, Ind. South Bend Lathe Works, South Bend, I^tdiana Driving l>> a (tiiiiiiitui l><»g Drilling in tiiv Latlif [-'-i: lU II xzhehczizzbC r,g. T Cutting a Slmnhler f/p. Driving Uy a Clamp Dog 56 S 11 I I u B I. .\ 1) L A T II ]■; W o K K s. Si) L' 1' II B i: .\ ii, I ,\ u i a .\ a 1 ^ ^]rr^ ^00 ^^ @ h ')■ Fig. S :i3 ( hiirUiii;; 11 riiiDt; Cuiniiuinid lifsi nil :in Anuli- ) (•■ r,gv fi l>rilling^ on the Diameter l'ulU'> on Arlmr S O I- T H B K N I) L A r il E W O K K S, S O I' T H B E X I». 1 X IH A X A o o L ^ E ® S^SSS f,y. H TTse of an Indicator 3larhinini: a Chiu-k Jiii> A race Plate Job Tapping in the f'liuck r.s South B e k d Lathe Works, S o u t ir B e m), I in d i a .\ a QJ^ South IJi'iid Milliny and Kov-W av C'uttiny AUathiuenl lor J^atlics The above two half-tones show our improved Milling and Key-Way Cutting Attachment for lathes. This attachment is very practical on a lathe in the slioii wliere there is no milling ma- chine or shaper. Tlie attachment is designed for South Bend Lathes, but it can also be fitted by a mechanic to lathes of other makes that are equipped with com- ]iound rest. This Milling and Key-Way Cutting Atlacliment is fully described in South Bend l.athe Catalog. Write for free catalog. 50 o O M u F-H o To o O j- 0) o 1;^= He- " ° c £0ho c u. ce 6r, 0) c .« n cs o ;; M 5 a •^ r; .= a* « o-S M > -3 n Cfi ^ ;_ o -c re ii " Oj cu ^1 0^ £ " "Izl ^ Oj y:: 'to a! ^ o- c Cj o t::! ^ o §^ 0) CD ■*^ o w re a^ o _ . ^ X' ■^ 3 C ■« •s s c CL ■ " t; > 3 al j- 0) O K '*- — 'J' S ^ 2=^ •o '5 C ■s^ss'-^ « 2 a; c« O .^ ^ n the op ith Colu t we cal le floor. p a. SC -^ „• QJ bO c ■ £ » t- ■a 1 spindl 8 feet itersha In fact at leas o p: rt -^ cti c Oj « £ o S ^-2 oJ ijc_, t^ _ ai 1J 0) 'H S.S ^ 9 CD . ° ::5 n S ^ . 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Postpaid to any address. m We have made the price of this little book as low as possible, so that each student tak- ing shop work can afford to have a copy. A Partial List of Schools that are Usini South Bend Lathes v. S. MlUtaijr Academy, Weet Point CblcaKo Board of Edneatlon New Tork City Boaid ol Education Cnlverslty of Chlcaco Lawrence Hlrb School, Falmonth, Maaa. Western 8tate Normal School, Kalamazoo, Mich, Taller City, N. D., Board of lEdncatloa UnlTersltr of minoiii. Champaign, lU. Tacoma Public Blgrh School, Tacoma, Wash. Detroit, Mich., Board of Edneatlon Vniverslty of City of Cincinnati Boy» High School, Frederick, Hd. V. a. School of Field Artillery lUlnola School for Deaf, JacksonvUle, III. Blue Island, lU., Board of Education VirglDla Polytechnic Institute, Blacksburg, Va. University of Utah, Salt Lake City, Utah Dartmouth Medical School, Nonrteh, Vermont Oreen Bay, Wis., Board of Education Valparaiso Cnlverslty, Valparaiso, Ind. Central High School, Onelph, Canada Portland, Ore., Board of EdacattoB Portland, Maine Board of Education WaTerly, N. X., Board of Education University of Colorado. Boulder, CoL L. f. MAROT eo., MUTH »%HO. INR, Kansas City Board of Education University of Southern &Unnesota New Kensington Borough High School, Kew Kensington, Pa, Rice Institute, Houston, Texas Harvard University Inland Stanford University, Palo Alto. Calif. W. Va. Industrial School for Boys, Charleston, W. Va. Miles Staadlsh School, Boston, Mass. Parkman School, Boston, Bfass. Arthur Hill Trade School, Saginaw, Midi. South Bend Hlsh School, South Bend, lad. Jefferson School, Stockton, CalU, Marinette, Wis., Board of Education University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Mich. Delaware College, Newark, DeL School District No. 27, Douglas, Arlx. Janesville High School, JaneerlUe, Wis. Mann Vocational School, Lowell, Haaa. Van Wert, Ohio, Board of Eduoatloa State Normal School, Oshkosh, Wis. Manitowoc, Wis., Board of Industilal Education Coronado High School, Ooronado, Gallf. Galesburg High School, Oalesburg, U. Illinois WMleyan University, Bloomlngton, III. Technical High School, Atlanta, Qm. University of BUssourl, Columbia, Mo. Miss. Agricultural & Mech. College, Agricultural College, Miss. University of Oregon, Eugene, Ore, Mass. Agricultural College, Amherst, Mass. Johns Hopkins Medical School, Baltimore, Md. Qnlncy Industrial School, Qulncy, Miaaa. University of Texas, Austin, Texas University of Illinois, Urbana, lU. Akron, Ohio, Board of Education Fort Apache Indian School, Holbrook, Arlx. Somerset, Ky„ Board of Education Huntington, W.Va., Board of Education Clark University, Worcester, Mass. Steiilng Towngliip High School, Sterling, DL Fort Wayne Vocational School, Fort Wayne, Ind. University of Porto BIco Bldgway-Bore. School Dlst., Bldgway, Fa. Bliss Electric School, WasUngtoB, D. C Centennial High School, Pncblo, Colo. Oswego Normal School, Oswego, N. T. Queen Anne High School, Seattle.Waab. Ballard High School, Seattle, Wash. West SeatUe High School, Set ^"■^ University Southei T .ihrar