Y G O N E 
 
 KENT 
 
 / . : ; i. ,vy/ / j>, /;.,: / -v.'. .//,.-.
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 BYGONE KENT.
 
 NOTE. 
 
 Of this book 750 copies have been printed, 
 and this is 
 
 No..
 
 DOVER CASTLE.
 
 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 EDITED P,Y 
 
 RICHARD STEAD, B.A., F.R.H.S. 
 
 CANTERBURY: 
 H. J. GOULDEN 
 
 HULL: 
 
 WILLIAM ANDREWS & CO., THE HULL PRESS. 
 LONDON: SIMFKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT, & Co., LIMITED. 
 
 1892.
 
 preface. 
 
 FEW counties are so interesting as Kent from 
 antiquarian, historical, and architectural 
 points of view, and probably no county can 
 surpass the " Garden of England " in these 
 respects. Its cathedrals, its castles, and its old 
 mansions are known far and wide, and the county 
 is connected with some of the most stirring and 
 remarkable incidents in our national story. 
 
 So wide is the field to be covered that the 
 present little volume cannot pretend to do more 
 than as it were touch its borders. But an attempt 
 has been made to give a fairly representative 
 series of pictures of Kent and Kentish life in 
 olden times ; and it is hoped that " Bygone 
 Kent " may do some little towards stirring up a 
 more general interest in the history of this famous 
 old county. 
 
 It should be explained that some little change 
 has been made in the original series of papers. 
 During the progress of the work through the 
 press some very valuable papers were most kindly 
 placed at my service, especially by the learned 
 and respected Canon Jenkins, M.A., and by Mr. 
 
 643084
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 G. M. Arnold, J.P., D.L., F.S.A., of Milton Hall, 
 Gravesend ; Mr. S. W. Kershaw, M.A., F.S.A., 
 librarian, Lambeth Palace Library ; and Mr. 
 Wollaston Knocker, Town Clerk of Dover. A 
 few of the less important papers were consequently 
 set aside to make room for these more important 
 ones. 
 
 To the gentlemen just named my best thanks 
 are due, as well as to my old and valued friend, 
 Mr. F. Ross, F.R.H.S., a most able and zealous 
 antiquary ; and to the Rev. J. S. Sidebotham, 
 M.A. ; the Rev. W. J. Foxell, B.A., B.Mus. ; and 
 others, who have so kindly assisted in the 
 preparation of the present volume. I have also 
 to thank Mr. E. Lamplough for his obliging 
 readiness in undertaking the index. 
 
 It is, perhaps, as well to add that though I have 
 undertaken generally to see the several articles 
 through the press, I have not the time nor in 
 some cases the ability to verify all the statements 
 contained in papers other than my own. The 
 various writers are, therefore, alone responsible 
 for whatever is contained in their respective 
 
 articles. 
 
 RICHARD STEAD. 
 
 GRAMMAR SCHOOL, 
 FOLKESTONE, Oct. 24! h, 1892,
 
 PAGE 
 
 Contents. 
 
 "'HISTORIC KICNT. By Thomas Frost i 
 
 KENTISH PLACE-NAMES. By R. Stead, B.A. , F.R. H.S 21 
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE AND HIS MISSION. By the Rev. Geo. S. 
 
 Tyack, K.A 39 
 
 THE RUINED CHAI-ELS AND CHANTRIES OK KENT. By Gco. 
 
 M. Arnold, J.r., I). L., F.s.A 51 
 
 A SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OK THE CHURCH OR BASILICA 
 
 OK LYMINGE. By the Rev. Canon R. C. Jenkins, M.A. 86" 
 
 CANTERBURY PILGRIMS AND THEIR SOJOURN IN THE CITY. 
 
 By the Rev. \V. J. Foxell, B.A. ... ... ... ... 97 
 
 WILLIAM LAMBAUDE, THE KENTISH ANTIQUARY. By Frederick 
 
 Ross, K. R. H.S. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 115 
 
 THE REVOLT OF THE VILLEINS IN- THE DAYS OF KING 
 
 RICHARD THE SECOND. By Edward Lamplough ... 128 
 
 ROYAL ELTHA.M. By Joseph W. Spurgeon ... - ... ... 144 
 
 GREENWICH FAIR. By Thomas Frost 167 
 
 THE MARTYRED CARDINAL. By Frederick Ross, F.R.H.S. ... 177 
 
 THE KENTISH DIALECTS, AND PEGGE AND LEWIS, THE OLD 
 
 COUNTY GLOSSARISTS. By R. Stead, B.A., F.R.H.S. ... 190 
 
 THE KING'S SCHOOL, CANTERBURY. By the Rev. J. S. Side- 
 
 botham, M.A. ... ... .. ... ... ... ... 206 
 
 SMUGGLING IN KENT 218 
 
 HUGUENOT HOMES IN KENT. By S. W. Kershaw, F.S.A. ... 228 
 
 DOVER CASTLE. By E. Wollaston Knocker 250 
 
 INDEX 265
 
 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 Ibistoric Ikent. 
 
 BY THOMAS FROST. 
 
 NO portion of England has been the scene of 
 so many important events in the history 
 of the nation as the county of Kent. Forming 
 the south-eastern extremity of the country, and 
 being nearer than any other to the shores of the 
 European continent, it has naturally been the 
 landing-place of successive invading hosts. It was 
 on its coast that the earliest event in our national 
 history was enacted, for Britain was an unknown 
 land to the rest of the world, until Julius Caesar 
 was prompted by the sight of the white cliffs of 
 Kent to cross the narrow channel with his 
 victorious legions. 
 
 Passing over the second Roman invasion, which 
 was prompted by the failure of the chiefs of the 
 Cantii to send to Gaul the promised hostages, it
 
 2 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 is enough to observe that the Kentish chiefs 
 found themselves constrained to follow the 
 example of their allies, and submit to the Roman 
 rule. 
 
 Kent, at this time, and for more than 800 years 
 afterwards, occupied a unique position among 
 the counties, the Cantii inhabiting no other part 
 of the country, while, during the period of the 
 Saxon Heptarchy, it formed a kingdom of itself. 
 Roman writers state that the Cantii were more 
 civilised than the other British tribes, and under 
 the Roman rule they made considerable advances 
 in the same direction. Roman bricks, mingled 
 with masonry of Saxon origin, may be seen to-day 
 in the lower part of the tower and portions of the 
 walls of Swanscomb Church, near Gravesend, in 
 the foundations of Lyminge Church, and in the 
 remains of the Pharos on the east cliff at Dover. 
 Fragments of Roman pottery may be found even 
 now in the mud of the marshy banks of the 
 Medway, at Upchurch, and on the ridge behind 
 the marsh, to the east of the Otterham Creek, is 
 a cemetery of the same period, while near Lower 
 Halstow Church, the remains of the houses which 
 those buried there occupied in life may be traced. 
 Roman bricks and broken pottery, may be found
 
 HISTORIC KENT. 3 
 
 also in the embankment at this place, and many 
 of the former have been worked into the lower 
 portion of the walls of the church. 
 
 The site of the military station of Regulbium, 
 from which name Reculver is derived, is now under 
 water, owing to the constant encroachments of the 
 sea on the east coast ; but Hasted, the historian 
 of Kent, says that " from the present shore, as far 
 as a place called the Black Rock, seen at low water- 
 mark, there have been found great quantities of 
 tiles, bricks, fragments of walls, tesselated pave- 
 ments, and other marks of a ruinated town." The 
 only existing traces of this place are two or three 
 ditches through the marshes, but large quantities of 
 Roman coins, pottery, and utensils have, at 
 different times, been found there. The Roman 
 governors established a military station there for 
 the defence of the channel which then divided 
 Thanet from the mainland : and they had another 
 at Rutupiae, now Richborough, to guard the 
 passage of the Stour, then much more important 
 than in modern times. Layers of Roman bricks 
 may be seen between the courses of stones in the 
 walls of Richborough Castle, and some remains of 
 a Roman amphitheatre are said to have been 
 visible sixty years ago, in the fields, about five
 
 4 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 hundred yards south-west from the ruins of the 
 castle. 
 
 The Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Kent was 
 founded by Hengist, in 475, and welded by 
 Egbert with the United Kingdom of England in 
 823. Ethelbert I. the first Christian monarch of 
 this miniature ^kingdom, is said to have built a 
 palace at Reculver, and this may have been' 
 the castle mentioned by some writers, remains 
 being traceable southward and eastward from 
 the roofless church. These fragments show 
 that the walls were of flints and septaria. There 
 are no traces of towers. Of the monastery said to 
 have been founded by Ethelbert not a stone 
 remains, but the magnificent gate of the one 
 founded by Augustine still exists at Canterbury, 
 where also is the oldest parish church in 
 England, that of St. Martin. 
 
 The unity of England had not long been 
 achieved when the country began to be harassed 
 by the incursions of the Danes. The first 
 descent of these invaders was made on the island 
 of Sheppey, in the reign of Egbert ; but that was 
 a mere plundering expedition. They came again 
 and again, however, and in constantly increasing 
 numbers ; and in 857 they ventured, for the first
 
 HISTORIC KENT. 5 
 
 time, to take up their -winter quarters in England. 
 In the following spring, having received strong 
 reinforcements, they advanced inland from 
 Thanet, and plundered and burned Canterbury. 
 Though they were afterwards defeated and 
 obliged to retreat, they maintained their 
 settlement in Thanet, and spent % the following 
 winter in Sheppey. In the reign of Edward the 
 Elder, the men of Kent supported the claim of 
 that monarch's cousin, Ethelwald, to a portion of 
 the kingdom, and he also enlisted the Danes 
 settled in the eastern part of the county in his 
 cause ; but his death in battle with the Kentish 
 men put an end to the dispute. 
 
 The subsequent struggle with the. Danish 
 invaders was fought out in the northern and north 
 midland counties, and ended in the settlement of 
 Danish colonies along all the eastern half of 
 England. Kent remained undisturbed until the 
 Norman invasion. At the battle of Hastings the 
 Kentish men formed the front line of the English 
 army, a position which they always claimed as of 
 right, and after the defeat which gave the crown 
 to the Duke of Normandy they fell back upon 
 their native soil. Kent submitted at once to the 
 conqueror, though, according to tradition, a body
 
 6 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 of Kentish men surprised a Norman force on 
 the march to London by issuing from the woods 
 around the village of Swanscomb, a few miles 
 from Gravesend. 
 
 During the reigns of the Norman and early 
 Angevin kings, the chief events in the history of 
 Kent centred in the city of Canterbury. There, 
 at the foot of the altar, in the cathedral, 
 Archbishop Becket was assassinated, and there 
 also arose the conflict between royal and 
 ecclesiastical authority, which, in the reign of 
 John, resulted in the kingdom being placed under 
 an interdict. The story of the murder of Becket 
 is so well known that there is no need to tell it 
 here. John's submission to Pandolfo, the Papal 
 legate, was made at or near Dover. 
 
 The invasion of England by the French, in 
 order to enforce the Papal decree of deposition 
 against John, was thus averted ; but in the 
 following reign a French army, acting in support 
 of a rebellious movement of the English nobles, 
 landed on the coast of Kent, and besieged Dover, 
 which was gallantly defended by Hubert de 
 Burgh. A French fleet, with reinforcements on 
 board, was repulsed off the coast of Kent, and 
 this defeat, combined with their ill-success in
 
 HISTORIC KENT. 7 
 
 Lincolnshire, which another French army had 
 invaded, induced the enemy to withdraw. 
 
 In the next notable events in the history of 
 Kent, the actual and the legendary are closely 
 interwoven, but the facts, so far as they can be 
 gathered, so well illustrate the age that they 
 ought not to be passed over without notice. The 
 corpse of a seaman who had been drowned in the 
 Medway was washed ashore near the village of 
 Minster, in the Isle of Sheppey, on the foreshore 
 of the extensive domain of Sir Robert Shurland, 
 by whom directions were given for its interment 
 in the parish churchyard. The priest refused to 
 comply with the knight's order, upon which the 
 latter ordered a couple of his serfs to dig a grave 
 in the churchyard, and again commanded the 
 presence of the priest, who, knowing that Sir 
 Robert was not a man to be trifled with, was 
 speedily in attendance. He refused, however, to 
 offer a single prayer, which so exasperated the 
 knight that he kicked him into the grave, whereby 
 his neck was broken. The grave was then filled 
 up, and Sir Robert returned to his castle. 
 Reports of this affair soon reached the ears of the 
 Abbot of Canterbury, who called upon the Sheriff 
 of Kent to set the law in motion against the
 
 8 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 sacrilegious Knight of Shurland, with the result 
 that the sheriff summoned the posse coniitatus, 
 and, presenting himself before the gates of 
 Shurland Castle, demanded the surrender of the 
 murderer. The knight ordered the drawbridge 
 to be raised, and the portcullis to be lowered, and 
 set the sheriff at defiance. On the summons to 
 surrender being repeated, he sallied out at the 
 head of a dozen armed retainers, and put the 
 upholders of the law to Might. 
 
 The Abbot thereupon appealed to the Pope, 
 and the Papal legate in London was instructed to 
 demand justice of the King, Sir Robert Shurland 
 being at the same time menaced with excommuni- 
 cation. Edward I. was then preparing for war 
 with Scotland, and the Knight took the 
 opportunity presented by the presence of the 
 royal barge on the coast to wait upon the 
 monarch. What he urged in extenuation of his 
 crime is not recorded ; but he received the royal 
 pardon, and probably cared little for any other 
 consequences. He had been knighted by 
 Edward for his gallant conduct at the siege of 
 Caerlaverock Castle, along with another brave 
 Kentish soldier, Sir John Hadloe, who derived 
 his name from the village now called Hadlow,
 
 HISTORIC KENT. 9 
 
 near Tunbridge, and whose castle and estate 
 there afterwards passed into the possession of a 
 family named Fane. The name of Shurland still 
 attaches to a mansion near Eastchurch, on the 
 right of the lane leading from Minster to Warden, 
 and the tomb of Sir Robert may be seen in 
 Minster Church. 
 
 Whether the person known in history as Wat 
 Tyler was an Essex man or a Kentish man has 
 never been determined, but it is certain that it 
 was upon Kentish soil that the insurrection which 
 he led in assertion of the rights of man against 
 the exercise of arbitrary and irresponsible power 
 reached its culmination. After an ineffectual 
 attack on Rochester Castle, the insurgents 
 marched to Blackheath, where, with the Essex 
 men, they are said to have numbered one hundred 
 thousand. Thence the Dartford tiler sent a 
 message to the King, who had taken refuge in 
 the Tower, asking for a conference with him. 
 Richard sailed down the river in the Royal barge 
 for that purpose, but the formidable aspect of the 
 insurgents deterred him from landing, and he 
 returned in fear to the Tower. The rest of the 
 story need hardly be given in detail in this place, 
 being treated indeed in another paper.
 
 io BYGONE KENT. 
 
 The doctrines of Wickliffe, which, preached by 
 John Ball, had no inconsiderable part in 
 promoting this movement of the serfs, were held 
 in some degree by both Henry IV. and his 
 father, the Duke of Lancaster, but the former, on 
 his usurpation of the throne adopted the view that 
 toleration of heresy was incompatible with the 
 due maintenance of order. Hence the enactment 
 of the law against heresy under which William 
 Sawtree, a London priest, was condemned to 
 death by fire by the convocation of Canterbury. 
 The same law in the following reign was put in 
 force against Lord Cobham, who was regarded as 
 the chief of the Lollards, then become a formid- 
 able body. He was indicted for heresy and 
 condemned to death, but escaped from the Tower 
 before the day appointed for his execution. 
 Subsequently becoming, implicated in a political 
 conspiracy, he was arrested and hanged as a 
 traitor, his corpse being afterwards burned in 
 execution of the sentence formerly pronounced 
 upon him as a heretic. 
 
 The tendency towards greater purity of 
 religion continued, notwithstanding these persecu- 
 tions, and, in combination with other and less 
 laudable motives, brought about the religious
 
 HISTORIC KENT. n 
 
 reformation of the sixteenth century. The dis- 
 solution of the monasteries was not, however, 
 regarded with general approval ; and, with the 
 view of reconciling the minds of the people to this 
 innovation, a commission was appointed to expose 
 the impostures which priests and monks had been 
 practising for centuries on the credulity of their 
 ignorant and superstitious flocks. Amongst these 
 was a large crucifix, kept at Boxley, in Kent, and 
 regarded with much reverence, the eyes, lips, and 
 head moving on the approach of its worshippers. 
 This was broken by the commissioners, and the 
 secret mechanism by which the movements had 
 been produced were exhibited to the public. 
 The shrine of Becket, commonly styled St. 
 Thomas of Canterbury, in Canterbury Cathedral, 
 was also destroyed, much to the regret of a large 
 section of the people. So great was the 
 veneration in which the memory of Becket was 
 held that it is recorded that while, in one year, 
 not a single penny was offered on the altar of 
 God, and only four pounds one shilling and 
 eightpence on that of the mother of Jesus, nine 
 hundred and fifty- four pounds six shillings and 
 threepence were offered at the shrine of Becket. 
 These exposures took away much of the odium
 
 12 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 that attached to the reforming measures of Henry 
 VIII., and the minds of the people were quieted 
 by the representation that the king would now 
 be able to dispense with taxes, as the revenues of 
 the abolished abbeys and monasteries would 
 suffice for all the purposes of the State. 
 
 It was in this reign that the incidents of the 
 grimmest of Barhara's Kentish ballads were 
 enacted, the scene being the gloomy passage in 
 the cathedral precinct at Canterbury known as the 
 " Dark Entry." The old house at the corner of 
 that long, narrow, paved court was then inhabited 
 by one of the canons, whose housekeeper was a 
 young woman named Ellen Bean, between whom 
 and her master an illicit connection was more than 
 suspected. One evening a young lady arrived at 
 the house, whom the canon introduced to his 
 friends as his niece, representing that her father had 
 gone abroad, confiding her to his guardianship. 
 Ellen Bean was not long, however, in arriving at 
 a different conclusion, and having, by watching 
 and listening, assured herself of the young lady's 
 frailty and the canon's infidelity to herself, she 
 administered poison to both, fatal results following 
 in a few hours. Ellen Bean disappeared, and 
 was supposed to have been sent away. Her
 
 HISTORIC KENT. 13 
 
 victims were yet unburied when it was rumoured 
 that persons passing through the Dark Entry had 
 heard subdued groans, which seemed to proceed 
 from beneath the flagstones, close to the canon's 
 house, one of which appeared to have been 
 recently removed and relaid. No investigation 
 appears to have been made, but about a century 
 afterwards, when the entry was being repaved, a 
 vault was discovered, at the bottom of which was 
 the skeleton of a woman, in a sitting position, 
 with a pitcher and a piece of pie crust beside it. 
 It was surmised that the remains were those of 
 Ellen Bean ; and that the canon's friends, being 
 assured of her guilt, and desirous to avoid the 
 scandal that must have resulted from a public 
 enquiry, had buried her alive, and placed a portion 
 of the poisoned pie in the vault, in order that if 
 the agonies of starvation prompted her to eat it, 
 she might suffer the torture endured by her victims. 
 Barham states that " a small maimed figure of a 
 female, in a sitting position, and holding some- 
 thing like a frying-pan in her hand, may still be 
 seen on the covered passage which crosses the 
 Brick Walk, and adjoins the house belonging to 
 the sixth prebendal stall." 
 
 Though some discontent had resulted in Kent,
 
 i 4 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 as well as in other parts of the kingdom, from the 
 dissolution of the monasteries, or rather from the 
 social consequences of that measure, the men of 
 that county were not disposed to regard with 
 equanimity the restoration of Roman Catholicism 
 by Mary. The more prudent, indeed, of the 
 nobility and gentry thought it would be soon 
 enough to correct evils when they began to be 
 felt, but the warmer-blooded among them deemed 
 it easier to prevent grievances than to redress 
 them. Sir Thomas Wyatt, some remains of 
 whose castle at Allington may still be found, 
 joined with the Duke of Suffolk and others in a 
 conspiracy to depose Mary, liberate Lady Jane 
 Dudley from the Tower, and place her on 
 the throne. The plans of the conspirators 
 were not well executed, however, and the 
 enterprise was a failure. Wyatt and the duke 
 lost their heads, as did Lady Jane and her 
 husband, and the queen's authority, instead of 
 being shaken by the outbreak, was considerably 
 strengthened by its prompt suppression. 
 
 During the two following reigns the people of 
 Kent enjoyed peace, and even the commotions of 
 the Civil War only extended to this county when 
 the strife between King and Parliament had
 
 HISTORIC KENT. 15 
 
 nearly reached its conclusion. In the spring of 
 1648, when the fortunes of Charles I. were almost 
 at their lowest ebb, the royalists resolved to make 
 a last desperate effort to restore them. Kent was 
 strongly Parliamentarian, but the gentry were, as 
 a rule, on the side of the King ; and Charles 
 being then in extremity, they convened meetings 
 at Canterbury and other places in the county, to 
 test the feelings of the people by raising the cry 
 of " God and the King ! " The moving spirit of 
 this movement was a gentleman named Hales, 
 who resided in the neighbourhood of Canterbury, 
 where he owned a considerable estate. The 
 avowed object of the meetings was the considera- 
 tion of grievances, under cover of which 
 associations were formed, arms collected, and 
 plans laid for a rising for the relief of the King. 
 
 The meetings were suppressed without difficulty 
 by the prompt action of Fairfax, who commanded 
 the Parliamentary forces in the south-east, but 
 the design of their promoters was not aban- 
 doned. 
 
 The crews of six ships of war lying at this time 
 in the Medway, and who probably had less 
 knowledge of the political condition of the 
 countrv than the dwellers in the towns, declared
 
 1 6 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 for the King, and, in spite of the arguments and 
 remonstrances of Rainsborough and the Earl of 
 Warwick, the Lord High Admiral put to sea, 
 and sailed for Holland, the purpose of the 
 captains being to offer the command of the 
 squadron to the Duke of York, who was then at 
 the Hague. The Prince of Wales, on being 
 apprised of this movement, went himself to the 
 Hague, whence he returned with nineteen vessels, 
 and anchored in the Thames. Warwick avoided 
 an engagement, however, and all the efforts of 
 the princes to create a movement in London in 
 support of the royal cause proved unavailing. 
 
 In the meantime their friends in Kent had 
 mustered at Maidstone, and opposed a bold front 
 to Fairfax, who marched against them as soon as 
 the news of the rising reached him. For six 
 hours the royalists resisted the efforts of the 
 Parliamentary force to dislodge them, but; at 
 length they were driven out of the town, leaving 
 two hundred of their supporters dead in the 
 streets, and twice that number prisoners. Those 
 who escaped returned at once to their homes. 
 There was another royalist force on the move, 
 however, under the command of the Earl of New- 
 port, who, on the day after the sanguinary conflict at
 
 HISTORIC KENT. 17 
 
 Maidstone (June 2nd) advanced to Blackheath, in 
 the hope of being able to penetrate into London, 
 and strike a blow that might prove a turning- 
 point in the fortunes of the royal cause. This 
 plan they were prevented from carrying out by 
 the vigilance of General Skippon, who intercepted 
 their communication with the city ; and their 
 leader, deeming that nothing could be done in 
 Kent, where, indeed, his position soon became 
 precarious, crossed the Thames, and led his force 
 to Colchester. 
 
 Once more, in 1660, an English fleet sailed to 
 the shores of Holland to bring over the sons of 
 Charles I. No one could have foreseen twelve 
 years before that they would so soon be welcomed 
 back to England. They landed at Dover, and 
 proceeded to London, where they were received 
 with every demonstration of joy. Four years 
 later, a Dutch fleet appeared in the Medway, and 
 spread consternation throughout the country. A 
 chain had been drawn across the river, and some 
 additions made to the defences of the banks ; but 
 these preparations were made in vain. Sheerness 
 was soon captured, and the Dutch ships sailed on, 
 breaking the chain, and overcoming the obstacles 
 presented by the ships sunk by order of the Duke
 
 i8 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 of Albemarle. Destroying all the shipping in 
 their passage, six warships and five fire-ships 
 advanced up the river as far as Upnor Castle, 
 where they burned three English ships of war. 
 It was expected that they would sail up the 
 Thames, and destroy all the shipping, and even 
 the city of London, but, owing to the failure of 
 the French fleet to support them, the Dutch 
 ships turned seaward, and after making a 
 hostile demonstration along the coast, returned to 
 their own ports. 
 
 Kent was not the scene of any other event of 
 importance in the national history until 1688, the 
 year of the flight of James II. from a kingdom 
 which he declined to govern constitutionally, and 
 which would not be governed after the manner of 
 his father. Leaving Whitehall by stealth, he 
 rode on a dark December night from the Thames 
 to the Medway, being conducted through by-ways 
 by a guide, and crossed the latter river by Ayles- 
 ford bridge. Changing his horse at Woolpeck, 
 he rode on to Elmley Ferry, near Faversham, 
 where he arrived at ten o'clock on the following 
 morning. There a hoy, hired by Sir Edward 
 Hales, lay ready to receive him ; but a strong 
 wind was blowing, and the vessel had no ballast
 
 HISTORIC KENT. 19 
 
 on board. This omission being supplied at 
 Shilness, it was determined to sail as soon as the 
 tide served, it being then half-ebb ; but when the 
 vessel was nearly afloat she was boarded by the 
 crews of three fishing boats, who seized James 
 and his two companions, Hales and another, on 
 the pretext that they were Papists, seeking to 
 escape from the kingdom. Hales gave the 
 master fifty guineas, as an earnest of more should 
 he permit them to escape. He promised ; but, 
 instead of keeping his word, he took the rest of 
 their money, under the pretence of securing it 
 from the seamen, and then left them to their 
 fate. 
 
 The fugitives were at length taken in a coach 
 to Faversham, where, on their rank transpiring, 
 much commotion ensued. SirJamesOxendoncame 
 with a company of militia to prevent the king's 
 escape. James contrived to send a letter to 
 London, which reached the Earl of Mulgrave, 
 and was by that nobleman read before the House 
 of Lords. The result was that the Earl of 
 Faversham was sent, with two hundred of the 
 Guards, to protect James and attend him 
 wherever he resolved to go. He chose now to 
 return to London, but a message was sent from
 
 20 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 the Prince of Orange, desiring him to advance 
 no farther in that direction than Rochester. The 
 messenger missed James by the way, and the 
 latter went on to London. He found Dutch 
 soldiers guarding Whitehall, and he was 
 commanded to retire to Rochester. He obeyed, 
 and remained in that city three nights. At 
 midnight on the third day he left the house at 
 which he lodged, secretly, attended only by his 
 illegitimate son, the Duke of Berwick, and one 
 servant, and went in a boat to a smack which was 
 in readiness at Sheerness. Thence they sailed 
 for the coast of France, and early on the morning 
 of Christmas Day anchored before Ambleteuse, 
 from which port the fugitives posted to St. 
 Germain's, whither the queen had preceded them 
 before James fled from Whitehall. 
 
 Of the connection of Kent with more modern 
 history, of Atterbury's plot, of the long residence 
 of the Duke of Wellington at Walmer, and so 
 forth, it is not necessary to treat here.
 
 ikentisb place-Hamee, 
 
 BY R. STEAD, B.A., F.R.H.S. 
 
 IT is curious to observe with how little interest 
 the ordinary reader regards the names of the 
 rivers, hills, towns, villages, and what not, around 
 him. To the typical Englishman, even if of fair 
 education, the inner meaning of the place-names 
 he meets with is a matter of supreme indifference. 
 Yet listen to what the learned Canon Isaac 
 Taylor, one of our greatest authorities, has to say 
 on this subject : u Local names, whether they 
 belong to provinces, cities, and villages, or are 
 the designations of rivers and mountains, are 
 never mere arbitrary sounds, devoid of meaning. 
 They may always be regarded as records of the 
 past, inviting and rewarding a careful historical 
 interpretation." And the Canon proceeds to say 
 that these local names "may indicate emigrations 
 immigrations the commingling of races by war 
 and conquest, or by the peaceful processes of 
 commerce ; the name of a district or a town may
 
 22 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 speak to us of events which written history has 
 failed to commemorate." And there can be no 
 doubt that this is true in the fullest sense, and to 
 an extent hardly to be imagined by those who 
 have not thought much on this matter. The 
 name of even the obscurest hamlet, or lone 
 farm-house, or tiniest brook, may be " full-fraught 
 with instruction " to him who knows how to read 
 aright. 
 
 The fine old county of Kent presents attrac- 
 tions to many students, and not least of all 
 to the student of local names, and this for many 
 reasons. Here landed Csesar and his Romans, 
 here St. Augustine first preached, and here was 
 the chief settlement of the Jutes. Then again, 
 the geographical modifications which the county 
 has undergone, and its proximity to the Continent 
 always the "shortest and quickest route "- 
 lend additional interest to the study of Kentish 
 place-names ; to say nothing of the fact that 
 amongst these names are some of the queerest to 
 be found outside Wales and the Highlands. 
 Witness such philological nuts to crack as 
 Lympne and Lyminge, Reculver, Hardres, 
 Swaltenden, and a host of others. 
 
 The present short paper has no pretentious to
 
 KENTISH PLACE-NAMES. 23 
 
 being the result of original research, and the 
 writer certainly does not propose to set up as an 
 "authority." What is here given may be got at 
 by anyone who will take the trouble to study 
 diligently such works as Canon Taylor's " Words 
 and Places," Edmund's " Names of Places," 
 together with the writings of Kemble, Latham, 
 etc., in connection with a few of the old itineraries, 
 using the while a modern ordnance map, and not 
 forgetting to peep into Domesday Book. This 
 article will have served its purpose if it succeeds in 
 pointing out what rich stores of information may be 
 got out of a study of the names to be found on the 
 map of Kent, and in shewing that the subject is 
 anything but dry and forbidding. 
 
 The present volume is entitled "Bygone Kent," 
 and certainly a study of our local names will often 
 carry us very far back into " bygone " times. It is 
 indeed hardly too much to say that if all the 
 written history of the country were lost, a diligent 
 study of the place-names would enable us to piece 
 together more than a little of the lost records. 
 Indeed local names often do supply the desired 
 information where no written account at all has 
 come down to us ; whilst it is interesting to note 
 how local names confirm the truth of trustworthy
 
 24 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 historical records. The earliest inhabitants of 
 Kent, so far as written accounts go, were of 
 Celtic race, and their occupation is abundantly 
 shown to this day by the names they have left 
 behind them. To begin with, the very name of 
 the county is derived from the Celtic ccnn, a head, 
 certainly an appropriate name in every way for a 
 district of its configuration and position. Of its 
 rivers there are few which do not owe their 
 names to the same early race. The word dwr, 
 water, appears in Dour, Rother ( = Red Water), 
 and Darent, or Derwent as it once was. Stour is 
 probably a double word from is and dwr, which 
 both mean water, whilst the lordly Thames itself 
 is almost certainly the Broad Water. In 
 Medway, Canon Taylor sees the Welsh word gwy 
 or wy, water. Then Romney is said to be from 
 ruimne, a marsh, so that the name Romney 
 Marsh means something very like the Marsh 
 Marsh. In South Wales there is another 
 Romney, though usually it is spelt Rhymney. 
 The very common cum, meaning a hollow, is still 
 represented in Kent in its Saxonized form of 
 Combe. We have several farms of the name in 
 the county. And here I may say, particularly, 
 that often the most interesting of all place-names,
 
 KENTISH PL A CE-NAMES. 2 5 
 
 and the best worth studying, are those of isolated 
 farms and remote hamlets. Not seldom these 
 places have a history dating back far beyond that 
 of the great towns. Kent is full of such outlying 
 farmsteads and hamlets, as a glance at the 
 ordnance map will shew Terlingham, Conicks, 
 Scuttington, Wadling, Rhoads, Edings, Yonsee, 
 and hundreds more. 
 
 But on the whole the proportion of Celtic 
 names is not large in Kent, and this is just what 
 history would lead us to expect. What with one 
 invasion and another by Romans, Teutons, and 
 Northmen our Celtic predecessors must have had 
 a hard time of it, and no wonder they went 
 further westward, and left their lands to others. 
 Probably hardly five per cent, of our local names 
 are of Celtic origin, and what we have are in 
 nearly all cases the names of natural features. 
 Possibly the Latinised Dubris and Regulbium, 
 our modern Dover and Reculver, were Roman 
 attempts to render earlier Celtic names. And 
 Canon Jenkins is of opinion that Lyminge repre- 
 sents the Celtic Heol Maen (Stone Street), the 
 old form <zt Limming (or at Lemaen) would 
 mean near the Stone Street, a description which 
 certainly suits the place exactly.
 
 26 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 Notwithstanding an occupation of several hun- 
 dred years, the Romans left behind them few 
 traces in the way of place-names. Rochester, of 
 course, occurs at once to the mind, as well as 
 Stone Street, just mentioned (Latin Strata], and 
 Watling Street. Such places as Minster date 
 only from later times, after the introduction of 
 Christianity into England. 
 
 To come to the immediate ancestors of the 
 " Men of Kent," the Jutish section of the Saxon 
 invaders, it is probable that not less than ninety 
 per cent, of the local place-names are of Anglo- 
 Saxon origin. If we owe the name of the county 
 to the Celtic race, at all events two-thirds of the 
 name of its venerable city, Canterbury, are Saxon. 
 To the Latinised form of Cenn, Cantium, the 
 Saxons added wara, inhabitants, thus getting Cant- 
 ware, the men of Kent. To this was placed byrig, 
 burgh, thus we get Cantwarabyrig, the "burgh of 
 the men of Kent," or better still the "town of the 
 men of the headland." We still have " Edward W. 
 Cantuar. " 
 
 But the most striking thing about Kentish 
 names, and a thing which the general reader can 
 hardly fail to notice, is the enormous number of 
 them indicating a densely-wooded country.
 
 KENTISH PLACE-NAMES. 27 
 
 There they are, hursts, leys, dens, charts, holts, 
 fields, and so forth, in bewildering numbers, and 
 nearly all of these are Anglo-Saxon names, 
 except perhaps den, which would possibly be 
 better classed as Celto-Saxon. 
 
 Let us begin with the hursts Chislehurst, 
 Penshurst, Hawkhurst, Staplehurst, Shadoxhurst, 
 and others in plenty. This "hurst" is. the 
 Anglo-Saxon hyrst (wood), in a slightly more 
 modern dress. Another wonderfully favourite 
 ending in Kentish place-names is the den just 
 mentioned, meaning a thicket, or wooded valley. 
 Let anyone examine the portion of the map of 
 Kent to the south of the railway line 
 from Tunbridge to Ashford, and he will find a 
 perfect swarm of these dens Tenterden, Halden, 
 Smarden, Frittenden, Marden, and so on 
 ad libitum. Again, scattered up and down the 
 country, we find plenty of names with ley for their 
 termination. This " ley " is akin to the modern 
 lie, and is indicative of a clearing in the forest 
 where the wood has been laid, or the cattle love 
 to lie. In these clearings, of course, our Teuton 
 ancestors often built their houses, and thus formed 
 the nucleus of many a village or town. So we get 
 Bromley, Bickley, Swanley, all within sight
 
 28 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 almost of London, with plenty of others more 
 remote, like Calverley, Idley, Willesley, Tudeley. 
 But we have by no means exhausted the names 
 telling of forest-land. There is hot, or holt, 
 which means a copse, or gentle slope covered 
 with scrub. These are not as numerous in Kent 
 as they are further west, but we have Knockholt, 
 Calshot, and perhaps others. In Highfield, 
 Matfield, Ensfield, we have places where the trees 
 had been felled. The charts peculiar to two or 
 three of the south-eastern counties deserve men- 
 tion. Says Dr. Isaac Taylor, "the word chart is 
 identical with the word hart (wood or forest) we 
 find in such German names as Hartz Mountains." 
 In Kent we have Chartham, Chart-Sutton, Great 
 Chart, and Little Chart. We have still left an 
 abundance of such isolated but suggestive 
 names as Mapleton, Sevenoaks, Ashenfielcl, 
 Broad Oak. 
 
 Now to what does all this point ? Undoubtedly 
 to this fact, that a very large portion of the 
 county was once covered with dense forest. This 
 we should know even if there were no written 
 record of the fact. But we learn from historical 
 sources that a very large portion of Kent, Sussex, 
 Surrey, and Hampshire was once covered with an
 
 KENTISH PLACE-NAMES. 29 
 
 immense forest called Andresleah, or the 
 " Untrodden Forest." This is now called the 
 " Weald," a word akin to wold (Cotswolds, etc.), 
 from the German wald, a wood. "In the 
 Weald almost every local name, for miles and 
 miles, terminates in hurst, ley, den, or field" 
 Canon Taylor gives a most interesting analysis of 
 the forest-names of the district. In the Kentish 
 Weald alone, there are 33 " hursts," 42 "dens," 
 22 "leys," i "holt," and 19 "fields," or a total of 
 117 such names, all in an area of a few square 
 miles. It is curious to note, too, says the learned 
 Canon, that the great family of Howard 
 (hog-warden) first turns up in Kent, that is, 
 amongst the woods, just where one would have 
 expected it. The other form of the name, 
 Hayward, is common enough yet in Kent, and so 
 is Woodward (forest- warden), whilst the Hogbens 
 seem very unlikely to die out in the old 
 county. 
 
 A very common ending in Kentish local names is 
 ing, often followed by some other termination like 
 ham, or ton. This ing was a patronymic, and 
 meant much the same as Mac in Scotland, or Ap 
 in Wales, An old writer speaks of the people of 
 Kent as " Centings." Authorities think that
 
 3 o BYGONE KENT. 
 
 when the ending ing stands alone we have the 
 original settlement of the clan or family, but 
 where there is a suffix (like ham] it marks a filial 
 colony sent out from the parent settlement. In 
 Kent we have these original family settlements at 
 Selling, where were found the " Sillings, a Vandal 
 tribe, mentioned by Ptolemy," at Harling, where 
 were the Harlings ; and others at Bobbing, 
 Stelling, Mailing ; whilst offshoots from the parent 
 settlements are met with at Hastingleigh, 
 Godington, and twenty or thirty more. Indeed it 
 is said that Kent boasts of twenty-two parent 
 settlements (a larger number than any other 
 county, just as might have been expected in a 
 district so early settled) and twenty-nine filial 
 colonies. A curious variation of the termination 
 ing is found in Lyminge, Ottinge, Sellinge, 
 Arpinge, Hawkinge, and a few more. 
 
 It is worth while to look for a moment at the 
 very important modifications in the contour of the 
 county, and see how these have affected the 
 place-nomenclature. Some portions of the 
 district adjoining the Thames are damp enough 
 for ordinary people even now, but how waterlogged 
 the whole locality must have been formerly may 
 be clearly seen by looking at the place-names.
 
 KENTISH PL A CE-NA MES. 3 1 
 
 Marshes in plenty there are, Plumstead, Crayford, 
 Dartford, Cowling, St. Mary's. There we have 
 Marsh Street, and such names as Sheppey, 
 Chitney, Graveney. This termination ey (or ea) 
 indicates an island, or land so water-begirt as to 
 be practically an island. 
 
 Of the Goodwin Sands, and the encroachments 
 of the sea on the coast thereabout, nothing need 
 be said, as " every school-boy " knows all about it. 
 If anyone wants to see "what the envious siege 
 of watery Neptune " can do, let him start at 
 Folkestone Harbour, and follow the coastline 
 eastwards for a mile or two. But we will rather 
 pass on to an instance or two of an opposite 
 character, that is where the sea has lost ground, as 
 an Irishman might say ; we still speak of the Isle 
 of Thanet, and everybody knows in a vague sort 
 of way that it was once really an island, though 
 how or when or why it ceased to be one in any 
 true sense is known to far fewer people. Yet 
 ships once entered from the North Sea, near 
 Sandwich, and sailed along the broad channel 
 which then separated Thanet from the mainland, 
 coming out into the mouth of the Thames, near 
 Reculver. Sandwich (Sandybay) and Rich- 
 borough were famous ports in early times, whilst
 
 3 2 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 Ebbfleet was one till a comparatively recent date. 
 If we knew nothing of all this from history we 
 could still gather much of it from a careful study 
 of local names. Starting from Pegwell Bay and 
 going westward, let us note a few of these names. 
 To Sandwich allusion has just been made. 
 Ebbfleet is now quite half a mile from any tide, 
 and Durlock, meaning wafer-lake, is now over 
 half a mile from the sea. [This is not the only 
 Durlock in Kent, the district overlooking Folke- 
 stone Harbour, on the East Cliff, is still called the 
 Durlocks]. Then there come Marshborough, 
 Marsh House, West Marsh, Stodmarsh, Ash 
 Marsh, Elmstone Marsh, which must have been 
 named later on, when the great channel had to a 
 considerable extent disappeared. The most 
 noteworthy name, however, is perhaps Stour- 
 mouth, which village is now a tolerably fair before- 
 breakfast walk, say some five or six miles, from 
 the sea, but at which place it is evident the river 
 Stour once emptied itself into the German Ocean. 
 Chislet, from the word chesel, shingle, was once a 
 shingle island, just as we have Chelsea, anciently 
 Chesel-ea, also a shingle island. Fordwich, or 
 Fordwick, which means " the bay on the arm of 
 the sea," near Canterbury, was formerly the port
 
 KENTISH PLACE-NAMES. 33 
 
 of Canterbury, and a corporate town. Clearly a 
 branch of the great channel ran eastwards to that 
 place. And then there is Olantigh, half-way 
 between Canterbury and Ashford, whose earlier 
 and perhaps better form, Olantige, shows that in 
 former times it must have been an island. A 
 worthy inhabitant of Wye, with whom the present 
 writer was conversing on the subject, stoutly 
 refused to believe that Olantigh was ever an 
 island, or that the seawater ever came anywhere 
 near the place, but the evidence furnished by the 
 name is too strong for him. 
 
 Few districts better repay a study respecting 
 its place-names than the far-famed Romney 
 Marsh. History informs us that Lymne (or 
 Lympne, as some prefer it) was once a famous 
 Roman port indeed, next to Richborough, the 
 most important in Kent. It is to be feared that 
 Lymne has small chance of ever being a port 
 again. It is now a mile and a half or two miles 
 from the shore. But this is not all. Appledore, 
 now some half a dozen miles from any part of the 
 present coast, was formerly a maritime town, and 
 the name, from Celtic sources, is said to mean 
 "waterpool." It is clear, therefore, that an arm 
 of the sea must have extended from Lymne to
 
 34 B YGONE KENT. 
 
 Appledore, and there are good reasons for 
 thinking that this channel was practically the 
 same as that of the now dried-up river Limene. 
 When the channel silted up, both Appledore and 
 Lymne decayed, and the newer port of West 
 Hythe sprang up, which in its turn gave 
 place to the modern Hythe, it is to be noted 
 that Hythe is not Celtic, like Lymne and 
 Appledore, but Saxon. Hythe tries hard 
 to keep itself to the shore, but it will have to 
 succumb. As a port it is now a thing of 
 the past, being many hundreds of yards from 
 the sea, whilst West Hythe is more than a 
 mile as the crow flies. So much for the fringe of 
 Romney Marsh. If we come to the district itself, 
 a glance at the names between the modern 
 Military Canal and Dungeness will show how 
 comparatively recently much of the district has 
 become habitable. We cannot do better than fall 
 back upon Canon Taylor again. " Throughout 
 the greater portion of the Marsh the local names 
 are purely English (or modern) such as 
 Ivychurch, Fairfield, Brookland, and Newchurch. 
 In a few of the more elevated spots the names 
 are Saxon or Celtic, as Winchelsea, or Romney, 
 whilst it is only when we come to the inland
 
 KENTISH PL A CE-NAMES. 3 5 
 
 margin of the marsh that we meet with a fringe 
 of ancient names like Lymne or Appledore, 
 which show the existence of continuous habitable 
 land in the times of the Romans or the Celts." 
 The change in the character of Romney Marsh is 
 shewn, too, by the fact that the river Rother, 
 which now runs into Rye Harbour, to the west of 
 Dungeness, formerly emptied itself into the sea 
 some distance to the east, or rather to the north 
 of that headland. 
 
 The Danish or Norse element which forms so 
 conspicuous a feature in the local names of some 
 of the eastern counties, such as Lincolnshire, is 
 not so plentiful in the place-names of Kent. 
 Indeed this county has about as small a proportion 
 as any of the names derived from the Northmen. 
 Still we have a few. An interesting instance is 
 the termination gate, which so often occurs : 
 Ramsgate, Margate, Kingsgate, Northgate, 
 Sandgate. In Romney Marsh this word 
 becomes gut, as Romney Marsh Gut, Jew's Gut, 
 Marsland Gut, Globesden Gut, and so on. In 
 every case these gates or guts are passages down 
 to the sea, and the word originally meant the way 
 one goes. A man's gait is still the way he goes. 
 The Indian word Ghaut is derived from the same
 
 36 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 root. Deptford is the "deep reach," whilst the 
 wicks were probably stations of pirates Wick, 
 Sandwich, Greenwich (the " green reach,") 
 Woolwich (the "hill reach,") and so on. Walton 
 is probably the "walled enclosure," and in the 
 parish of Chartham we have Danesbanks. 
 Characteristic Norse names in ness (nose) 
 abound, like Sheerness, Dungeness, Shellness, 
 Foreness, Whiteness, Ness Corner. Dungeness, 
 or Dengeness, is perhaps Dengeyness, or Danes' 
 Island Head. That the Northmen made pretty 
 frequent settlements along the Kentish coast is 
 certain ; and who knows how much of the 
 proverbial seafaring skill and hardihood of the 
 Kentish boatmen and fishermen is due to the 
 admixture of old " Sea Rover " blood in their 
 veins ? 
 
 Considering its proximity to the Continent, it 
 is remarkable that there is so little of French or 
 Norman-French in the Kentish place-nomen- 
 clature. Here and there we find a Capel-le-Ferne 
 or a Wickhambreaux, but the number of such 
 instances is small. On the other hand, it is most 
 interesting to note that Anglo-Saxon names 
 abound on the French coast near Boulogne. Com- 
 pare the Sangatte, Lozinghem, Wimille, Ham,
 
 KENTISH PLACE-NAMES. 37 
 
 and so forth, of the opposite coast with our 
 Kentish Sandgate, Lossingham, Windmill, Ham. 
 And such English-looking names as Warhem 
 (Warham), Hollebeque (Holbeck), Maninghem 
 (Manningham), Colincthun (Collington), Wer- 
 wick (Warwick), are as plentiful as blackberries 
 in the Calais- Boulogne-St Omer District. Were 
 our corresponding English settlements made 
 from France, or did we colonise that corner of 
 our continental neighbour's country ? It would 
 occupy too much space to give in full the pros 
 and cons ; suffice it to say there is good reason to 
 think that the French corner was colonised from 
 England, and that as a matter of fact the colonists 
 set sail from somewhere near the Kentish Hythe. 
 In short, we owe but little in the way of place- 
 names to France ; it is all the other way ; to our 
 colonisation France owes a multitude of its 
 village settlements, in its north-eastern corner at 
 least. 
 
 One is sorely tempted before closing this 
 short and inadequate paper to attempt to crack 
 some of the hard philological nuts presented by 
 some of our local names, but we must forbear. 
 The way of the philologer is hard, yet there are 
 few things we more easily drift into than deriva-
 
 38 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 tion. As a witty member of the English 
 Dialect Society has said, "every man thinks he 
 can drive and derive" But a large series of 
 disasters in both driving and deriving has taught 
 the present writer to be wary in attempting either, 
 lest haply in the latter art he should tumble into 
 some of the delightful pitfalls into which of yore 
 fell dear old Lambarde, the Kentish Perambu- 
 lator.
 
 St. Hu0U6tine anfc bt6 
 
 BY THE REV. GEO. S. TYACK, B.A. 
 
 THE latter half of the sixth century found 
 England almost wholly heathen still. It is 
 true that long before that date Christianity had 
 made its way into the island, whether through the 
 preaching of S. Paul, the labours of S. Joseph of 
 Arimathea and his companions, in answer to the 
 prayers of King Lucius, or by what other now 
 forgotten means, we cannot say. Certain, 
 however, it is that there were British martyrs, as 
 S. Alban, in the Diocletian persecution (A.D. 303), 
 and British bishops present at the Councils of 
 Aries (A.D. 314), Sardica (A.D. 347) and 
 Ariminum (A.D. 360). The next century saw a 
 change. From the stormy shores of the Baltic 
 the English sea-kings came down upon the land, 
 now left defenceless by the Roman power ; like 
 the successive waves of an incoming flood they 
 swept across it, driving before them or destroying 
 almost every vestige of what was character- 
 istically British, and covering the land with their
 
 40 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 own masterful being, rugged, daring, and withal 
 heathen ; until at length all that was left of the 
 British Church was to be found only amid the 
 wild hills of Wales and Cornwall, like drift-wood 
 at the water's edge, marking the utmost limit of 
 the advancing tide. 
 
 For some unexplained reason no effort was 
 made^ by this remnant to convert their English 
 conquerors to the Faith. Whether their resent- 
 ment at their sufferings overcame their Christian 
 charity, or the continuance of a desultory conflict 
 gave no opportunity of intercourse, or whether 
 the civil strifes into which we are told they fell 
 amongst themselves, was the hindrance, we can 
 only conjecture ; the Venerable Bede, however, 
 reckons it " amongst other most wicked actions " 
 of which in this time of distress they were guilty, 
 " that they never preached the faith to the Saxons 
 or English who dwelt amongst them." 
 
 The work thus neglected was to be taken up 
 nevertheless by others. We need not tell again 
 the oft-told tale of S. Gregory's noticing the 
 group of fair-haired slaves in the Roman market, 
 and of the holy humour with which he punned 
 upon the names of their country and their king, 
 but we pass rather to the fulfilment of the sacred
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE AND HIS MISSION. 41 
 
 ambition which was that day born within the 
 saint's breast. 
 
 It was not until some years later that Gregory 
 was able to take steps for the conversion of the 
 English, and by that time the calls of other duties 
 he was then Bishop of Rome prevented his 
 personally undertaking the mission. As abbot of 
 the Monastery of S. Andrew on the Ccelian Hill, 
 he had had ample opportunity of judging the 
 worth and work of Augustine, the prior, and him 
 he chose to whom to confide the responsibility of 
 this task. 
 
 The band of missionaries, consisting of about 
 forty monks, traversed Provence, stayed for 
 a while in the Isle of Lerins, and at length, after 
 some doubts and delays, caused by the account 
 given them of the roughness of the English 
 nation, landed in the Isle of Thanet on the 
 7th August, 596. 
 
 Thanet was then far more entitled to the name 
 of isle than it is to-day. Bede gives the following 
 description of it: "On the east of Kent is the 
 large isle of Thanet, containing, according to the 
 English way of reckoning, six hundred families, 
 divided from the other land by the River 
 Wantsum, which is about three furlongs over,
 
 42 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 and fordable only in two places, for both ends of 
 it run into the sea;" and even as late as the 
 sixteenth century, John Twyne says of the stream 
 which insulates it, " There be right creditable 
 persons now living that have often seen not only 
 small boats, but vessels of good burden to pass to 
 and fro upon the Wantsum, where now the water, 
 especially towards the west, is clear excluded ; 
 and there be apparent marks that Sarr, where 
 they now go over, was a proper haven." Within 
 this island, therefore, S. Augustine and his 
 company waited until the king should give them 
 an audience, or signify his pleasure concerning 
 them. 
 
 The condition of things in the kingdom of 
 Kent was not unfavourable for the foundation of 
 the faith, nor for its extension from that centre. 
 Ethelbert, the king, had taken to wife Bertha, 
 daughter of Charibert, King of Paris, who had 
 stipulated at the marriage that she should be 
 permitted the full enjoyment of the Christian 
 religion, in which she had been brought up ; 
 Luidhard, Bishop of Senlis, was therefore present 
 at the Kentish Court as her chaplain, and both 
 from him and from the queen, Ethelbert must 
 often have heard something of the mysteries of
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE AND HIS MISSION. 43 
 
 their faith. Moreover, the King's influence 
 extended beyond the limits of his own dominions, 
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE FROM THE DOOR OF THE CHAl'TER-HOUSE, ROCHESTER. 
 
 since he held the position of Bretwalda, the 
 third who had been advanced to that dignity 
 and thus exercised some degree of over
 
 44 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 lordship over all the country south of the 
 H umber. 
 
 S. Gregory the Great, writing to Bertha, 
 intimates that it was understood that " an anxious 
 desire " had arisen among her people for admission 
 to the Church, and suggests that she " ought early 
 to have inclined her husband favourably " towards 
 her own faith ; it is therefore most probable that 
 when at last the missionaries came into the royal 
 presence, Ethelbert was prepared to give them 
 something more than an impartial hearing ; nor 
 did they, on their part, as they advanced to meet 
 him, chanting a pathetic litany, and preceded by 
 a silver cross and a crucifix painted on a panel, 
 fail to make use of the opportunity afforded them 
 of at once impressing his mind with the beauty 
 and solemnity of the message they had come to 
 bring. The result of the important conference 
 that followed was as favourable as, from a first 
 interview, could have been looked for ; the monks 
 were permitted to cross to the mainland and take 
 up their residence in the royal city of Canterbury ; 
 provision was there made for their sustenance, 
 and leave was granted them to preach and to 
 make converts. 
 
 Two buildings, still existing, recall the early
 
 .ST. AUGUSTINE AND HIS MISSION. 45 
 
 days of S. Augustine's life in Canterbury. The 
 first is the Stable Gate, which is said to have 
 been the first home of his little company in the 
 city. The second is S. Martin's Church. 
 " There was on the east side of the city," says 
 that father of English history already quoted, 
 "a church dedicated to the honour of S. Martin, 
 built whilst the Romans were still in the island, 
 wherein the Queen used to pray ; in this they 
 first began to meet, to sing, to pray, to say mass, 
 to preach, and to baptize, until the King, being 
 converted to the Faith, allowed them to preach 
 openly, and to build or repair churches in all 
 places." Towards the little church of S. Martin, 
 whose bells still call to prayer, and thanksgiving, 
 and the Holy Sacrifice, within whose walls so 
 many generations of the faithful have met to 
 worship, the thoughts of all Englishmen, but 
 especially of the men of Kent, must turn as they 
 recall the landmarks still left to us of the Bygone 
 Days. Much, if not all, of the present building 
 dates only from the thirteenth century, but the 
 later builders were evidently largely indebted to 
 their predecessors for their materials, the walls 
 being full of Roman bricks which formed part of 
 the church, where was heard the voice of S.
 
 46 B YGONE KENT. 
 
 Augustine singing the holy offices or preaching to 
 the heathen ; within which, two centuries earlier, 
 ere Rome's Empire crumbled to decay, priests 
 and people now nameless to us met to " sing 
 hymns to Christ as God." 
 
 The conversion and baptism of King Ethelbert 
 not only allowed S. Augustine to seek other and 
 larger centres for his work, but even compelled 
 him to do so, for the multitude was not slow 
 in following the royal example ; but a good 
 foundation having thus been laid, the head of the 
 mission returned to France before proceeding to 
 build further upon it, and obtained episcopal 
 consecration at the hands of Virgilius, Archbishop 
 of Aries. 
 
 The second church provided for the growing 
 community of Christians was also an ancient 
 British church, desecrated and in ruins ; this the 
 new-made bishop repaired and enlarged, and 
 constituted it the cathedral, or episcopal seat, for 
 his diocese, under the name of Christ Church. 
 The magnificent pile, which now forms the 
 metropolitan Church of England, was commenced 
 by Lanfranc (1070-1092), the thirty-third 
 archbishop, and has grown under the hands of 
 successive occupants of the see to its present
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE AND HIS MISSION. 47 
 
 dignity ; yet it is thought by some to enshrine 
 part of that humbler building- which contained the 
 rude throne of the first of the long line 1 * of 
 archbishops of Canterbury. The walls of the 
 crypt proclaim its great age, and it is this part of 
 the cathedral which is said to have come down to 
 us, through all the storms that have more than 
 once wholly or in part wrecked the greater 
 church above it, as a memorial of the times of 
 King Ethelbert and S. Augustine. 
 
 So rapidly spread the effects of the missionaries' 
 work among the people that at Christmas, 697, less 
 than eighteen months after their landing, more than 
 10,000 persons were baptized at the mouth of the 
 Medway, opposite Sheppey. The news of the 
 conversion of the king, and of the progress of the 
 work, brought from Rome a crowd of additional 
 helpers, and the outward signs of the victory of the 
 Cross became more and more evident in the city. 
 
 A third ancient church, which had been 
 degraded into a heathen temple, was cleansed and 
 re-dedicated to its original use under the name of 
 S. Pancras, and near it rose a monastery for the 
 accommodation of the missionary-monks. One 
 religious house they already possessed, for 
 
 * The present archbishop (Dr. Benson) is the 92nd.
 
 48 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 Ethelbert had given up to their use his palace, 
 which lay hard by the new cathedral. The second 
 monastery, destined to be one of the greatest and 
 most famous of abbeys, was seven years in 
 building, but the founder was 'not to see its 
 consecration, which took place under Laurentius, 
 his companion and successor. It was at first 
 dedicated to the Apostles S. Peter and S. Paul, 
 but Dunstan, the twenty-third archbishop, 
 added the name of S. Augustine, and this title 
 has supplanted the rest. Many have been the 
 changes in its fortunes ; it has been abbey, royal 
 hall, and bishop's palace, and now, not inappro- 
 priately it forms a college of missionary students. 
 It will be seen from the above notes that the 
 footprints of S. Augustine are to be found all 
 over his ancient city of Canterbury, but his work 
 spread beyond that city, or indeed the kingdom of 
 Kent. By the aid of Ethelbert a second see was 
 founded within his domains, and Julius, one of 
 S. Augustine's first helpers, was made the first 
 bishop of Rochester. The cathedral, built chiefly 
 by Bishop Gundulf (1077-1108) was dedicated 
 to S. Andrew, in memory of that monastery at 
 Rome, whence the first company of missionaries 
 came to Kent ; and the majestic figure of S.
 
 57! AUGUSTINE AND HIS MISSION. 49 
 
 Augustine, bearing the cross staff of an 
 Archbishop, still stands without the Chapter door. 
 Westward and northward the light spread from 
 Kent into the surrounding kingdoms, so that even 
 far Northumbria for a brief space caught its 
 gleams. With all the questions of ritual and 
 theology that arose between the Italian priests 
 and the British Church, and with the details of 
 their labours beyond the borders of Kent, we 
 must not trouble the reader of the present volume. 
 One word only will we add as to his claim to the 
 title "Apostle of the English." It must be 
 remembered that not all of England, much less of 
 Great Britain, was touched by his work ; the 
 English never penetrated to Cornwall, Wales, or 
 Scotland, and these people owe little or nothing 
 directly to the mission of S. Augustine ; moreover 
 his work, or that of his assistants, north of the 
 H umber, was superficial and shortlived, so that in 
 a few years time it had to be re-commenced from 
 the foundation. From lona came a band of 
 devoted men, whose simple lives and burning 
 words brought the knowledge of the Faith to 
 .northern England, and who may fairly claim an 
 equal share with S. Augustine in the Apostleship 
 of the English.
 
 50 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 The great S. Gregory was called to his rest 
 early in 605, and but two months later his friend 
 and follower, S. Augustine, laid down the 
 weapons of life's warfare. His body was laid 
 within his monastery at Canterbury, whence S. 
 Dunstan removed it to the Cathedral.
 
 ZTbc IRuinefc Cbapds anfc Chantries of 
 Itcnt 
 
 BY GEO. M. ARNOLD, J.P., D.L., F.S.A. 
 
 S. KATHARINE, SHORNE. 
 
 IN the year 1890 I observed a small freehold 
 property was advertised for sale by auction, 
 and in the particulars of sale it was thus described : 
 "The property comprises a comfortable old- 
 fashioned residence in good repair, whilst 
 adjoining and in the rear is an HllClCllt (Ibnpcl, 
 supposed to have been formerly occupied by 
 Monks, and visited by the Pilgrims on their way 
 to the Shrine of Thomas a Beckett." 
 
 Attracted by this description, I instructed my 
 agent to purchase it, and having removed the 
 stalls and mangers from the interior, and cleared 
 it of manure and rubbish, I proceeded to explore 
 its history, but found none, and that all 
 records were silent upon it, with the exception 
 that Mr. John Thorpe inserted the following 
 account of its appearance as an oast-house in 1774,
 
 52 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 accompanied by a plate. His work, known as 
 the Customale Roffense, was published 1788. 
 
 " On the right hand of the road leading up to 
 Shorne Street, and opposite Mr. Maplesden's 
 house, stands an antient and fair chapel or 
 oratory ; which, with some additional building, is 
 now used as a malt-house, and a small tenement 
 erected against the east end of it, inhabited by the 
 maltman. I was informed by an antient and 
 creditable person there that in digging the 
 foundation of the new building or lean-to, a stone 
 coffin and many human bones were disturbed. 
 On the north side is a small orchard, which 
 probably was the cemetery to it. This edifice has 
 not been mentioned by any writer, nor have I 
 been able hitherto to meet with anything relative 
 to its foundation and endowment." 
 
 After considerable research I discovered that 
 the little building had been suppressed as a 
 chantry under the statute of the i Edward VI., 
 and had thereupon probably become abandoned 
 and derelict, that it had been included in a 
 Commission of Queen Elizabeth for the discovery 
 of "concealed lands," and having been returned 
 by the Commissioners as falling within their 
 powers, was found to be known as the little chapel
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 53 
 
 of S. Katharine, of small value, and was 
 accordingly comprised in one of their omnibus 
 deeds (as we should now call them) of sale, in 
 which the lands of many pious persons (confiscated 
 under the statute) were gathered together and 
 appropriated to Secular purposes in return for 
 money, fee farm rents, or other financial 
 considerations. 
 
 As these official documents have been given by 
 the Kent Archaeological Society to the public this 
 year, in a paper written by me, I do not purpose 
 here to dwell further upon them. The building 
 now will be made safe from any further inroads of 
 adverse weather, and from more direct mischief 
 at the hands of Man. 
 
 In the progress of the above researches it 
 occurred to me that the existing references to the 
 various decayed and ruined Kentish Chantries, were 
 few and not easily brought together, and that it 
 would interest many if this collection was now made, 
 accompanied by any original remarks or reference 
 to authentic records relevant to the subject, and 
 thus I came to place the following notes at the 
 service of the editor of " Bygone Kent," not 
 without an earnest hope that they would lead to 
 enquiry into these small but interesting ruins, and
 
 54 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 where it was not too late, to take measures for 
 their preservation, but anyhow in the expectation 
 that they would at least keep the memory of 
 them to the fore, and not improbably lead to the 
 discovery of what remains still unknown or 
 obscure in reference to their past history. 
 
 We are indebted to the painstaking industry of 
 the late Mr. John Thorpe for the means of now 
 reproducing views (as they existed in his time) of 
 several of these our smaller Ecclesiastical Build- 
 ings in Kent. 
 
 / 
 
 ROCHESTER BRIDGE CHAPEL OF ALL SOULS, 
 established in what was the then narrow lane 
 (upon which it conferred the designation of 
 Chapel Lane) leading to the east end of the 
 then " new bridge " of Rochester. This chapel is 
 mentioned by Thorpe in his Customale Roffense, 
 page 150, and was founded and endowed by John 
 de Cobham and Sir Robert Knowles. 
 
 It was customary at those periods to erect 
 chapels or chantries at or near either end of 
 important fords or hazardous ferries, and this 
 chapel, which was called Allesolven or Allsouls, 
 seemed to have been designed chiefly for the use 
 of travellers and wayfarers. By the foundation
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 55 
 
 charter the three chaplains who were to officiate 
 within its walls were to be appointed by the Wardens 
 of the bridge, and were to pray for the soul of John 
 de Cobham, and for the souls of the benefactors 
 of the bridge, and for certain other specified 
 individuals, and generally for all faithful people. 
 Under the statute of King Edward VI., 
 
 BRIDGE CHAPEL, ROCHESTER (SOUTH-EAST VIEW). 
 
 referred to in relation to St. Katharine, 
 Shorne, it was enacted that " all sums of money 
 and emoluments which by virtue of any assurance 
 had been given or applied, to have continuance 
 for ever ; which in any one year within five years 
 next before the beginning of this present 
 parliament, have been paid, or bestowed, by any 
 Corporation, Guilds, Fraternities, Companies,
 
 5 6 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 Fellowships of Mysteries, or Crafts, etc., toward 
 or about the finding maintenance or sustentation 
 of any priest, or priests, of any anniversary, or 
 obit, lamp, light, or lights, or other like thing ; 
 shall go to our said Lord the King, his heirs and 
 successors for ever ; to be yearly as a rent charge 
 at the Feast of St. Michael the Archangel and 
 the Annunciation of our Lady," etc., but it 
 appears that from some cause or other, possibly 
 in view of some such legislation being imminent, 
 the chapel had already ceased to be used or to 
 depend upon these stipends. This is shewn by a 
 plea in the Exchequer of the XIX Queen 
 Elizabeth, where the Queen's Attorney-General 
 sued the Wardens of the bridge for no less a sum 
 than ^513, being the accumulations of ^18 per 
 annum (the stipends of 6 each which used to be 
 paid to the three chaplains) for twenty-eight and 
 a half years then last past. The Attorney- 
 General contended that the total claim was 
 forfeited, and due to the Queen by virtue of the 
 above act of Edward VI. for dissolving chantries. 
 It did not appear, however, to the jury that any 
 service had been performed there, or at all events 
 that any stipend had been actually paid to any 
 chaplain or chantry priest by the bridge authorities
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 57 
 
 for officiating there, for five years next before the 
 passing of the said act (which was an essential 
 requisite according to the limitation therein 
 specified), and so a verdict was given in favour of 
 the Wardens. The case shews the tenacity with 
 which the pursuit of the confiscated property was 
 often-times conducted. The circumstance that 
 this Exchequer suit by Queen Elizabeth, against 
 the bridge Wardens was lost in consequence of 
 the defendants being able to shew that the priests' 
 stipends had not been maintained during the 
 period of five years before the session of 1547, 
 induced me to investigate the suppression of the 
 adjacent parish church of S. Clement, within 
 which parish the bridge chapel was situate a 
 suppression effected by the Statute 2 and 3 of the 
 same King, cap. 17. 
 
 The enactment, which has not, I think, been 
 printed, but which I have consulted in the 
 parliamentary rolls at Westminster, after reciting 
 that S. Clement's was so small that the parish 
 had had no incumbent for some years, in 
 consequence of which the King had lost his first- 
 fruits, or tenths, and the inhabitants had no 
 church ministrations ; proceeds to enact that the 
 parish of S. Clement be united to the parish of S.
 
 5 8 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 Nicholas, and that William Harrison, the then 
 present incumbent of S, Nicholas, should be the 
 incumbent of both parishes, and all payments 
 were to be due to him, while he was to pay the 
 King his first-fruits and tenths. The furniture, 
 etc., was to be appropriated to S. Nicholas, as the 
 Bishop of Rochester and the Mayor of Rochester 
 should arrange. 
 
 These circumstances seem indirectly to 
 corroborate the accuracy of the line of defence 
 set up by the wardens. 
 
 That the chapel was not extra parochial is clear 
 from the language of John de Cobham, the 
 founder, addressed to the Bishop. " Therefore I, 
 the said John, desiring by the divine mercy 
 heavenly treasure, and knowing that naked I 
 came from my mother's womb, and naked shall I 
 return unto the dust of the earth ; and that we 
 shall reap alone that which we have sown ; have 
 established a certain perpetual chantry in the 
 chapel next the bridge of the city of Rochester, 
 within the parish of the parish church of S. 
 Clement's in the same city situate." The view 
 annexed is that supplied by Thorpe, but the 
 chapel has since been cleared by the recent but 
 praiseworthy action of the Bridge Corporation,
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 59 
 
 and this at the instance, I believe, of my 
 brother, Mr. Arnold, the Bridge Clerk, to whom 
 the Kent Archaeological Society is indebted in its 
 XVII. vol. for several very interesting papers 
 bearing upon the bridge and its estates. 
 
 S. LAWRENCE DE LONGSOLE. 
 
 This chapel at Allington, higher up the river 
 Medway, is situate towards the south-west limits 
 of the parish, and was formerly called the Free 
 Chapel, or Chantry, or Hermitage of S. Lawrence 
 de Langsole, otherwise Longsole, and so 
 designated probably from being near to if not 
 erected upon Longsole Heath. 
 
 The owners of the Castle and Manor of 
 Allington seem to have been the general, if not 
 the constant, patrons of this chapel, and the farm 
 attached to the chapel was known as the 
 " Hermitage " Farm in the time of Thorpe. 
 
 It may be interesting to mention that John, 
 Bishop of Rochester, issued from Southfleet, 
 under date 22nd September, 1422, a commission 
 to enquire whether this chapel was really in 
 Aylesford or in Allington, since the right to the 
 offerings made at it, on the Vigil and Feast of S. 
 Lawrence (its patron Saint) was in dispute
 
 60 BYGONE KENT, 
 
 between the Vicar of Aylesford and the Rector of 
 Allington. 
 
 ESLINGHAM CHAPEL, FRINDSBURY. 
 
 In reference to the Chapel of Eslingham, 
 Hugh de St. Clare, Lord of the Manor, obtained 
 from Bishop Gundulph a grant of a Free Chapel 
 within that Manor. This first structure perished, 
 and the chapel was rebuilt in the time of John 
 (the second Bishop of Rochester of that name, who 
 was consecrated Bishop of Rochester A.D. 1137), 
 and between that year and A.D. 1 144 he dedicated 
 it in honour of " S. Peter, the chief of the 
 apostles," and confirmed all the privileges which 
 Bishop Gundulph had granted to Hugh de St. 
 Clare in respect of it. 
 
 The chapel is stated by Thorpe to have been 
 " a massive stone building with Gothic windows 
 and iron bars." 
 
 It seems to have been about thirty feet in length 
 by about twenty feet in width, and stood east 
 and west on the side of the yard south of 
 the dwelling-house, and was used as an oast 
 house, but becoming ruinous " was pulled down 
 in the year 1772, and a new oast erected near 
 the spot." There are now no traces of it above 
 the surface.
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 61 
 
 THE CHAPEL OF S. MARGARET, HELLE, DARENTH. 
 The Chapel of S. Margaret, Helle, is situate in 
 Darenth, and according to the account of it which 
 the Reverend Samuel Denne (the Vicar) supplied 
 to Mr. Thorpe, it appeared to him quite uncertain 
 when it was built, but no question exists of its 
 antiquity. S. Margaret's Chapel is mentioned in 
 
 CHAPEL OK S. MARGARET, HEI.I.E, DARENTH. 
 
 the Textus Roffenses as subject to the payment 
 for Chrism of the yearly sum of sixpence to 
 Rochester Cathedral. 
 
 A composition was confirmed by Archbishop 
 Wareham, in 1522, relative to the duty to be 
 performed at the chapel, respecting which a 
 difference had then arisen between the vicar of
 
 62 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 the parish and the parishioners ; upon which 
 occasion it was ordered by the Archbishop (inter 
 alia) that owing to the distance, the privileges of 
 baptism and burial were to be obtained at the 
 chapel, but marriage was restricted to the parish 
 church. It is singular that both the parish 
 church and this chapel were dedicated to S. 
 Margaret. 
 
 In reference to the mention of Chrism, it should 
 be added that it appears to have been customary 
 for parish Churches in the Diocese of Rochester 
 to pay a Chrism Due of ix</., as distinguished 
 from the Chapels which paid only v\d. yearly. 
 
 By an Episcopal ordination of the Vicarage, of 
 the 4th December 1292, the vicar was to find 
 "duos capellanos celebrantes, unum videlicit in 
 ecclesia de Darenth, et alterum in Capella de 
 Helles." 
 
 Nothing of the Chapel remained even in 
 Thorpe's time, but the Tower ; the walls of the 
 main structure having been then many years since 
 removed, and the materials converted to other 
 uses, which, he adds, " has been generally the fate 
 of these disused edifices." Of this Tower I have 
 reproduced the north-east view which he has 
 left us.
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 63 
 
 THE CHANTRY OF S. MARY AT MILTON, 
 NEXT GRAVESEND. 
 
 This chantry was founded by Aymer de Valence, 
 Earl Pembroke, owner of the Manor of Milton, who 
 lies buried in a place of remarkable honour on 
 the north side of the Choir of Westminster Abbey 
 a distinction which he probably owed to the 
 circumstance that his father was half-brother to 
 King Henry III. 
 
 Bishop Hamo de Hethe, by an instrument 
 dated April i5th, 1322, at his palace at Hailing, 
 ordained at the instance of the Earl Aymer (who 
 was patron of the Chantry) and of the secular priests 
 residing at it, among other things "that they should 
 be for the future ' Regulars ' who should receive 
 and keep a certain rule, and who, in 
 celebrating divine offices for the souls of the 
 family of Montchensie, and of the Earl himself, 
 his wife, etc., should especially commemorate him 
 and the founder. And that of the priests who 
 should be the first placed in this Chantry should 
 be appointed by him, the said Bishop, one of 
 whom adjudged most fit by him for this purpose 
 should be appointed Provost or Master, whom the 
 rest should obey as their superior, and on his 
 death or removal the brethren, within three
 
 64 B YGONE KENT. 
 
 months after the vacancy, were to choose for a 
 successor another priest who had professed the 
 rule of the Chantry for one year, and after being 
 presented to the patron, or if he was at an incon- 
 venient distance, to the steward or bailiff of his 
 estate, he was to be admitted as Provost by the 
 Bishop of Rochester." 
 
 And the Bishop also granted that they should 
 " have an altar in the Chapel of the Chantry, and 
 a competent burial place for themselves, but for no 
 others whatsoever, and that no one but themselves 
 should administer the sacraments of the Church 
 therein (and that with bells, in a becoming 
 manner) and without prejudice to the Mother 
 Church, and he willed they should possess the 
 same for ever, freely, peaceably, and quietly, saving 
 all episcopal right to him and to the Church of 
 Rochester." 
 
 In the list of the benefices of the Bishop of the 
 Diocese {Reg. Roff. 14) the Rectory and this 
 chantry are enumerated together as " Ecclesia de 
 Meltone cum Cantaria ibidem." There was no 
 chantry within the Church, but this chantry of S. 
 Mary was within a few hundred yards distance of 
 it, to the north-west. 
 
 No exterior indications of the chantry are now
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 65 
 
 visible, but the walls are enclosed in the Barracks 
 of New Tavern Fort. The foundation was 
 suppressed and alienated in the latter part of the 
 reign of King Henry VIII. 
 
 THE FREE CHAPEL OF S. LAWRENCE, HALLING. 
 
 This " Libera Capella Sancti Laurentij in 
 Hallyng," is another of the suppressed chantries 
 under the operation of the Edwardian statute. 
 
 It appears to have been an edifice of fair 
 antiquity, being built with rough stones, and was, 
 Thorpe says, from his earliest memory in a ruined 
 condition, without roof or timbers, but had then 
 for some years past been converted into a 
 workshop and dwellinghouse, and inhabited by a 
 wheelwright, the chancel portion being the 
 house. It was at that time plastered over and 
 whitewashed. The chapel is mentioned in the 
 Reg. Roff. as being in the collation of the bishop. 
 
 At a distance of a mile is the parish church, 
 and near to it the remains of the ancient 
 Episcopal Palace ; close to, and connected with 
 which, was another chapel for the Bishop's use. 
 
 DODE CHAPEL, 
 
 in the parish of Luddesdown, was originally, I 
 believe, the parish church of a separate parish of
 
 66 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 its own name, and as seems from the Textus 
 Roffensis, it was accordingly subject to the yearly 
 Chrism of ninepence to the Bishop of Rochester. 
 The origin of its nonuser is now lost in the 
 obscurity and maze of years, but it was ultimately 
 annexed to the Rectory of Paddlesworth, by 
 instrument dated the ist March, 1366. 
 
 The view of the ruins given in Thorpe is not 
 correct, since there is no reality of any 
 erection by squared stones or ashlar work, as there 
 portrayed, but the structure is of flint chalk and 
 rag rubble work, with an exterior coat of plaster 
 much indurated and hardened by years of 
 exposure. The nave is about thirty-six feet in 
 length and the chancel eighteen feet, and now so 
 surrounded by a dense underwood and brushwood 
 as to be scarcely accessible. 
 
 MAPLESCOMB. 
 
 This little building, like the one last mentioned, 
 was formerly the church of a rectory, down to a 
 comparatively late period, since it was only united 
 to the adjoining parish of Kingsdown in A.D. 1638, 
 or thereabouts. 
 
 Dr. Harris writes (as quoted i-n Thorpe's 
 Customale] "Will de Valorgnes tenet de D. R.
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 67 
 
 in capite medietat in maneris de Maplescampe," 
 by the service of "finding a halfpenny for an 
 offering whenever he should hear mass at 
 Maplescamp." 
 
 The length of the building was fifty-one feet by 
 a width of twenty-one feet, and the engraving 
 supplied shows how the ruins appeared in A.D. 
 1768. 
 
 RUINS OF MAPLESCOMB CHURCH, 1768. 
 
 ROKESLEY, NOW RUXLEY. 
 
 This ruined building is said to stand near and 
 just above the XIII. milestone on the road from 
 London to Farningham. 
 
 It appears that Cardinal Pole united it upon 
 the occasion of his visitation, in 1557, to the parish 
 of North Cray. 
 
 The little church building, which in Thorpe's 
 time, was entire, then stood in the corner of a
 
 68 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 garden, and had been converted into a barn. 
 The southern (priest's) entrance had been 
 enlarged, and fitted with a pair of barn doors, 
 allowing a width of space for a waggon to draw 
 through. 
 
 It was then called " Church Barn," in order to 
 distinguish it from other barns upon the same 
 farm. 
 
 In the chancel portion he mentions that there 
 then remained "two confessionary stalls, with 
 mitred arches and seats in them, and nearer to the 
 east end on the same side the receptacle for the 
 holy water," by which it is clear that he meant the 
 usual Sedilia and Piscina. 
 
 LULLINGSTONE. 
 
 These ruins are alleged to have anciently 
 formed the church of a distinct parish, though, 
 according to the Textus Roffensis, doubt is cast 
 on the claim, since it is shown to have paid to the 
 mother church of the Diocese only the chapelry 
 Chrism of sixpence yearly. 
 
 The fabric had a length of thirty-seven feet by 
 sixteen feet and a half, and was measured as well 
 as was possible, owing to the briars and nettles, by 
 Mr. Thorpe himself. He considered the circular
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 69 
 
 windows indicated the presence of Roman work, 
 which, to say the least, is open to more than 
 doubt. 
 
 The little parish and vicarage of Lullingstone 
 was for ecclesiastical purposes merged in the 
 adjoining parish and rectory of Lullingstone as 
 late as A.D. 1712. 
 
 S. LEONARD, AT WEST MALLING. 
 The remains of this building are extremely well 
 known, and like S. Mary Helle, consist of a 
 Tower only, of massive erection. The chapel 
 appears, from the records collected in the Textus 
 Roffensis, to have been one belonging to Mailing, 
 and was seventy feet in length by thirty-three 
 feet in breadth. Thorpe's view of the tower, 
 taken in 1772, gives an inadequate impression of 
 the massiveness of the work, the walls being seven 
 feet in thickness and some seventy feet even in the 
 then reduced state of its height. Thorpe remarks 
 that " the destruction of the body of the chapel was 
 without doubt for the materials, and that the 
 upper part of the tower has shared the same fate, 
 as would the whole most likely but for the labour 
 and expense owing to the hardness and strong 
 concretion of the cement."
 
 70 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 CHAPEL OF S. JOHN, AT NEWHITHE, 
 EAST MALLING. 
 
 The following account is taken almost totidem 
 verbis from the Customale Roffense. 
 
 Newhithe, commonly called Newhede, from its 
 situation on the banks of the Medway (the 
 termination of the Saxon word hithe signifying a 
 small port or haven for embarking, and landing, 
 loading, and unloading goods) is a hamlet in the 
 above parish. 
 
 In the street stands an ancient chapel, which 
 was dedicated to S. John, but was in Thorpe's 
 time already converted into a dwelling-house. 
 
 The structure seems to have been a free chapel 
 for the benefit of this hamlet, situate at a good 
 distance from the parish church : but the founder 
 and endowments are unknown. On the general 
 suppression, the lands annexed to them were 
 granted to different persons and uses. 
 
 In the augmentation of the Vicarage of East 
 Mailing, in the time of Archbishop Islip, dated 
 at Charing in the year 1363, mention is made that 
 John Lorkyn, then vicar, and his successors, should 
 receive all oblations or offerings of what kind 
 soever given to the said chapel, " percipiet 
 insuper vicarius predictus et sui successores
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 71 
 
 vicarii in dicta ecclesia ministrantes cunctis 
 temporibus in futurum omnes et omnimodas 
 oblaciones tarn in dicta ecclesia parochiali quam 
 in capella Sancti Johannis apud Newhithe in 
 parochia dicte ecclesie constitute," etc. This 
 building, together with a small piece of ground on 
 the south side, which seemed to have been the 
 cemetery, became in course of years the property 
 
 CHAPEL OF S. JOHN, NEWHITHE, EAST MALLING. 
 
 of Sir Roger Twisden, Bart. The chapel then 
 stood in a small square at the back of the 
 houses, on the south side of the street, from 
 whence were two passages that led to it. The 
 east window had been taken out, and the space 
 worked up with stones, etc. The west window 
 also appeared a ruin, as in the drawing taken from 
 Mr. Thorpe's book, and the old door-case, which
 
 72 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 from the stonework was a Gothic one, had been 
 taken away and a modern one put in its place. 
 The window on the north side was likewise a 
 Gothic one, belonging to the chapel, but being too 
 large for the dwelling-house, had been contracted, 
 and the upper mitred panels plastered over. 
 
 The length of the chapel is stated to be thirty- 
 one feet and the breadth twenty feet. The draw- 
 ing was taken A.D. 1777, and shews the north-west 
 view of the chapel. 
 
 MERSTON. 
 
 Of this little church there are no remains above 
 the ground level, and the living has become a 
 sinecure rectory. The church, when existent, was 
 dedicated to St. Giles, and it stood at the 
 north-east corner of a wood known as Chapel 
 Wood, about half a mile to the east of Green 
 Farm, now occupied by Mr. Jull, which wood has 
 since been grubbed, and the dismembered remains 
 of the walls are even now continually dispersed 
 by the ploughshare. Merston, which adjoins 
 Shorne, was (judging from its name) probably a 
 place of more importance than is now apparent. 
 Taking Mere as equivalent to Sea, it would read 
 Water or Seatown, in relation to the sea water
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 73 
 
 which here finds entrance from the Thames 
 Mouth. The parish for all practical purposes is 
 absorbed in Shorne. 
 
 PADDLESWORTH. 
 
 These ruins again, as in several earlier cases, 
 are those not so much of a chapel as of a 
 parish church, if we depend upon the Textus 
 Roffensis. 
 
 The walls in Thorpe's time were entire 
 excepting a breach on the north side, made wide 
 enough for farm carts to enter for shelter from the 
 weather, and for the reception of ploughs, harrows, 
 and other implements of husbandry, which was 
 then, he adds, " the only use that was made of it." 
 
 GREENHITHE, SWANSCOMB, ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 
 This chantry, in the parish of Swanscomb, was 
 erected in the reign of Edward III., and dedicated 
 to Almighty God under the invocation of the 
 Blessed Virgin Mary, " in which the Divine 
 Offices should be daily offered for the health of 
 the King's soul and of John Lucas of Swannes- 
 compe " while they lived, and afterwards for 
 their souls, " cum ab hac luce substracti fuerimus," 
 and for their ancestors, and for the souls of all the
 
 74 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 faithful departed. The site was 100 feet square, 
 and the endowment was 20 acres of pasture in 
 Swanscomb parish, of which, as above mentioned, 
 the village of Greenhithe formed part. 
 
 PEMBURY, THE CHAPEL OF ST. MARY IN THE 
 
 CEMETERY. 
 
 In this parish we have, for Kent, the very 
 unusual circumstance of the distinct and separate 
 building of the chantry within the limits of the 
 churchyard of the parish. It was known as "the 
 Chantry of St. Mary in the Cemetery," and was 
 founded by John Culpepper, in the reign of 
 Edward III. The structure was in length thirty feet, 
 and in width eighteen feet, and its roof was covered 
 with lead. It remained intact until the general 
 suppression of such chantries in the i Edward VI., 
 when it was speedily 'pulled down, and its materials 
 converted into cash, while the lands forming its 
 endowment were sold to different persons. 
 Richard Hill was the last incumbent of the 
 chantry (A.D. 1553), and it appears that as such 
 he received a compensatory life pension of 
 6 135. 4d. upon being sent adrift. 
 
 No remains now exist, and no view of the 
 chantry appears to be extant.
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 75 
 
 RECULVER, ST. JAMES'S CHANTRY. 
 Leland is quoted as writing " that there was a 
 neglect chapel owt of the churchyard," etc. This 
 chapel, it seems, stood at a small distance west of 
 the renowned Parish Church, and was dedicated to 
 St. James, and a Hermit was appointed to 
 officiate in it. King Richard II., in the third year 
 of his reign, granted to Thomas Hamond, the 
 then Hermit of this chapel, the right of collecting 
 alms for its rebuilding, It was then stated that 
 the old chapel had been instituted for the burial 
 of persons whose bodies were found upon the sea 
 shore, a fate which unhappily overtook this 
 ancient, though rebuilt, structure, which perished 
 by the like encroachments of the insatiable sea. 
 
 STROOD, ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S. 
 
 The well-known Lazar House at the east end of 
 Rochester, known as St. Bartholomew's, Chatham, 
 was not an isolated establishment of that character 
 in the locality, for in the opposite (the west) 
 extremity of the City of Rochester stood a 
 similar institution. 
 
 This second St. Bartholomew's was at the top 
 of Strood Hill, at a spot called "The White Ditch," 
 on the south side of the present highway there,
 
 7 6 B YGONE KENT. 
 
 and doubtless the appellation of White arose from 
 the natural appearance of the chalk sub-soil upon 
 excavation. The hill long -retained, and perhaps 
 still retains to this day, the name of " Spittal Hill." 
 
 We find in the will of Thomas de Woldham, 
 Bishop of Rochester, amidst other bequests was 
 the following, u Item, lego leprosis de Alba fossa 
 vis. viiitf'." The personnel of this hospital 
 apparently comprised a Sisterhood as well as 
 Brethren, and probably therefore received patients 
 of both sexes. In the same way at Pilton, 
 Devon, we find " Adam Teighe, under date the 
 24 Edward III., A.D. 1350, gave a tenement in that 
 place to the Brothers and Sisters of the Leper 
 Hospital of the Blessed Margaret of Pilton." 
 We can unfortunately now procure no view of 
 any part of this suppressed foundation. Referring 
 to St. Bartholomew's, at Chatham, I should add 
 that to the west of the Norman Church the nave 
 extended sixteen feet, but in this and in the last 
 century the nave has been much more extended 
 in a westerly direction. 
 
 It is noteworthy that at the western entrance of 
 the City of Canterbury (upon the same high road 
 from London) existed the similar hospital for 
 lepers of St. Nicholas, one mile from the west gate
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 77 
 
 of the city, the same distance of the Strood Lazar 
 House from the western entrance into Rochester. 
 It was founded by Archbishop Lanfranc, circa 
 1084, with two other houses, which were dedicated 
 respectively to St. James and St. Lawrence. 
 Both of the latter foundations were swept away at 
 the time of suppression, in 1537 and 1551, but 
 the retention of the ancient church of St. Nicholas 
 for congregational worship saved the Harbledown 
 Lazar House, as St. Bartholomew's Chapel at 
 Chatham saved the hospital attached to it. 
 
 Although the church or chapel at " Whiteditch," 
 Spittal Hill, Strood, was dedicated to St. 
 Bartholomew, it would appear that the Lazar 
 House itself (from Stowell's Records of Wills) was 
 called after St. Katherine. 
 
 Edward Munn, of Strood, bequeathed "to the 
 poor folke of the Spittlehouse a bushel of malt," 
 and another testator left "to the Lazar House of 
 Whiteditch, 2s." 
 
 ASH, NEAR RIDLEY, CHAPEL OF SCOTS GROVE, 
 
 in this parish. 
 
 The dedication of this chapel, like that of St. 
 Katharine in Shorne, is not mentioned in Hasted's 
 " Kent/' or any other book to my knowledge.
 
 7 8 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 It was probably a chapel attached to Scot 
 Grove, since the latter was anciently accounted as 
 a manor. Hasted speaking of it says, " there was 
 once a chapel belonging to this estate, the 
 foundations of which are still visible in a wood 
 called Chapel Wood," and Thorpe says that in 
 August, 1769, its foundations were visible, and 
 that he had seen them. 
 
 FAWKHAM. 
 
 Mention is made in the Textus Roffensis, p. 136, 
 of a chantry of St. Catherine in the parish church, 
 but Sir W. de Faukham, in 1274, founded another 
 within the parish church in honour of the Blessed 
 Virgin Mary, and for the good of the souls of 
 himself and of his successors, which he endowed 
 with five marks of yearly rent in pure and 
 perpetual alms, to be paid out of fifty-five acres at 
 Scotbury, in Southfleet, and this foundation was 
 confirmed by the bishop in A.D. 1278. St 
 Catherine's seems to have been a chantry under 
 the jurisdiction of the Archdeacon of Rochester, 
 since it is so recorded at p. 136 Reg. Roff., by the 
 name of " Cantaria Stae Katarinae de Fawkham." 
 
 The view given by Thorpe in his Customale, p. 
 1 1 6, was taken by his express instructions, in the
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 79 
 
 year 1769, and it shews clearly the outline of this 
 ancient chantry, though his reference to it is curt. 
 "There was another chantry dedicated to St. 
 Catherine, but by whom founded is uncertain," 
 and he seems to regard the ruined building as 
 possibly other than St. Catherine, but Hasted, 
 writing later, says, " the foundations of the ancient 
 Mansion House of Fawkham are yet visible. . . . 
 What remains of the building seem to have been 
 the walls of the chapel." 
 
 COSENTON CHAPEL, AYLESFORD PARISH. 
 
 Sir Stephen de Cosenton, Knight, was with 
 King Edward I. at the noted siege of Carlaverock, 
 in Scotland, and was there made a Banneret by 
 the King for his good service. 
 
 At this period it would seem there was a chapel 
 at Cosenton Manor dedicated to St. Michael, with 
 a Chantry in it founded by Sir Stephen. 
 
 It further appears that in 1444, September 12, 
 (23 Henry VI.) he released by deed the Master and 
 Brethren of the Hospital of the Newerk at 
 Strood from the obligation of finding a Chaplain 
 to celebrate yearly in this Chapel of St. Michael, 
 and it would seem that they in return released all 
 privilege of providing such Chaplain, and all
 
 So BYGONE KENT. 
 
 claims connected with it, though this last and 
 complimentary release seems to have come 
 somewhat tardily, since it was not executed till 
 some eleven years later, and then at Strood on the 
 loth October, 34 Henry VI. 
 
 Thorpe, writing in 1788, says no vestige 
 remained to point out the exact site of the chapel. 
 
 TOTTINGTON CHAPEL, AYLESFORD. 
 
 In the same parish of Aylesford also stood the 
 Chapel of Tottington, the exact site of which 
 Thorpe had the good fortune to discover, and he 
 ascertained its dimensions to have been thirty-nine 
 feet in length by twenty-two feet six inches 
 in width. The structure stood east and west, 
 and was also, like the last-mentioned chapel, 
 dedicated to St. Michael. 
 
 After the suppression, it seems to have fallen 
 into disuse, and the natural forces of nature, 
 assisted by the acts of men, speedily completed 
 the ruin. 
 
 COBHAM, COBHAMBURV. 
 
 The chapel here was doubtless a free chapel, 
 but it must not be confused with the " Quandam 
 perpetuam Cantariam " which Pope Urban 
 the VI. authorised, " in parochiali ecclesia de
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 81 
 
 Cobeham," which the parents of John, Lord 
 Cobham, had chosen for their own interment, and 
 in which latter chantry five perpetual Chaplains, 
 forming a College, should serve "in Divinis " for 
 ever. 
 
 This latter foundation of the 36 Edward III., 
 A.D. 1362 (so amply furnished and endowed by 
 the piety of John de Cobham), continued till the 
 reign of Henry VIII., when, foreseeing the 
 approaching dissolution, the Master and Brethren 
 aliened it to George Brooke, Lord Cobham, who 
 had interest with the King, to protect the 
 transaction, and so it happened the property in the 
 suppressed chantry when thus sold to him was by 
 express words exempted from the destructive opera- 
 tion of the statute of the 3151 year of that king, and 
 again from the statute for the suppression of 
 Chantries, i Edward VI., c. 14. In the course of 
 making some recent searches in connection with the 
 St. Katherine's Chantry, Shorne, I ascertained the 
 existence at Hatfield House, Herts, of two Rolls 
 of the accounts of the Masters of this College, 
 temp. Henry VII. 
 
 Sir William Brooke, the son of George Brooke 
 de Cobham, by his will left the property to 
 trustees, under which instrument, and by the aid
 
 82 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 of an Act of Parliament of the 39 Elizabeth, an 
 entirely new foundation was created and the 
 Wardens of Rochester Bridge brought into 
 connection with it, and this latter foundation in its 
 general outlines has continued with better fortune 
 than its predecessor till this day. 
 
 Returning to the free Chapel of Cobhambury, 
 there is, I believe, no trace of the building now 
 remaining, but in the list of Collations of 
 Benefices appertaining to the Bishop stands 
 recorded the " libera capella de Cobhambury." 
 
 DARTFORD, ST. EDMUND THE MARTYR. 
 This is another chantry the building of which 
 disappeared, according to Hasted, at the general 
 suppression. It was situate on " East Hill," and 
 overlooked the parish church and churchyard, 
 both of which lay in the town below, but although 
 the building itself was destroyed and its materials 
 sold, the ground around it was continued as a 
 burial ground, and so remains to this day. The 
 advowson of this chantry was vested in the 
 Priory of Dartford Convent, in the 46th year of 
 Edward V., indeed it was given to the Nuns 
 at the period of their first endowment. The 
 other chantry at Dartford was within the parish
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 83 
 
 church, and was founded by a former Vicar, 
 Thomas de Dartford, alias A. H. Stampett, in 
 A.D. 1338. 
 
 It was well endowed, and at its suppression in 
 1553, Robert Bacon was its incumbent, and was 
 pensioned off at 6 per annum. 
 
 It was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and 
 paid the Vicar xii</. yearly, and was usually called 
 " the Stampett Chantry." 
 
 In the list of the Bishop's benefices (Reg..Roff. 
 141) it appears that the separate " Cantaria Sti 
 Edmundi de Dertford" was under the jurisdiction 
 of the Archdeacon, while the " Vicaria de 
 Dertford et Cantaria ibidem de Stampetts " were 
 not. 
 
 No remains of St. Edmund's Chantry are 
 extant. 
 
 HORSEMONDEN. 
 
 The " Cantaria annunciationis Beatse Maria;; 
 in Horsemonden," to follow the words of the old 
 record, is the last of the three chantries dependent 
 on the jurisdiction of the Archdeacon, and though 
 it does not fairly come within the scope of this 
 paper, as not being contained in an independent 
 edifice (since, as was most frequent and far more 
 convenient, a chantry was located within the
 
 84 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 parish church), it is yet interesting as a rare 
 instance of an elective advowson in Kent. Thus 
 the founder, Robert de Grovehurst, by deed of the 
 4th July, 1338, provided that on the first vacancy 
 the parishioners who should "be present at the 
 usual time of mass on the next Sunday, being six 
 in number, should nominate a priest to be 
 presented to the chantry," to which there was 
 apparently a house of residence assigned, with 
 the obligation of celebrating daily. 
 
 MATDSTONE CHAPEL OF CORPUS CHRISTI, 
 in Earl Street, with its adjacent building, was a 
 work of much importance. 
 
 The revenues of the fraternity were ample, and 
 not only did their chaplain act as chantry priest 
 in their own chapel, but they also maintained out 
 of their revenues a priest to celebrate in the 
 parish church of All Saints'. On the suppression, 
 the Corporation, by the sale of the community vest- 
 ments, church plate, etc., were enabled to purchase 
 this property of the Crown, and it is now the 
 receptacle of the tubs and casks of a brewery, 
 against which misappropriation its massive walls 
 and beautiful traceried windows offer a silent but 
 ineffective protest.
 
 RUINED CHAPELS AND CHANTRIES. 85 
 
 DOVER ROUND CHURCH. 
 
 The dedication of this little Round Church on 
 the heights at Dover, is, I believe, unknown. It 
 has been well described in the Arch&ologia 
 Cantiana, with a plan shewing the circular nave of 
 an interior diameter of twenty-five feet, and a 
 chancel possessing a length of twenty-seven feet 
 by a width of about fourteen feet. The 
 foundations are now cleared, and rise to a level 
 with the surrounding land. These remains 
 will always command a large interest, as being 
 the reputed place of conference between King 
 John and the Pope's Legate, Pandulf.
 
 a Sfcetcb of the Ibistoq? of tbe Cburcb 
 or Baeilica of Xpminge* 
 
 BY THE REV. CANON R. C. JENKINS, M.A. 
 
 I ^HE Church of Lyminge, dedicated originally 
 JL to " St Mary the Mother of God," * and on 
 its refoundation by St. Dunstan having the double 
 title of S. Mary and S. Ethelburga (or Eadburgt) 
 its first foundress, possesses a historical interest 
 which very few of the Saxon foundations can 
 equal, and none certainly surpass. Bound up 
 inseparably with the life and history of the saintly 
 Queen, the only daughter of Ethelbert and 
 Bertha, and the widow of the martyred King 
 Edwin of Northumberland, the earliest lines of its 
 history are traced in those of her own, and from 
 the mention of the place in the early charters as a 
 royal possession, and her subsequent choice of it 
 as the scene of her conventual life, we may 
 reasonably conjecture that it was from Lyminge 
 
 * Charter of King Wihtraed, A.D. 696. 
 
 tGoscelinus writes, "In the Church of Lyminge which belongs to the 
 Archbishop, the Queen Ethelburga is known to be buried, but there she is 
 called Eadburg" (A.D. 1097). Ethelbald and Ethelward are in like 
 manner contracted into Eadbakl and Eadward.
 
 THE CHURCH OF L VMINGE. 87 
 
 that she took her eventful journey to York as the 
 betrothed of the unfortunate Edwin. Accom- 
 panied by S. Paulinus, and with his aid, she 
 brought about the conversion of her husband and 
 his subjects, whose romantic narrative is given us 
 so fully by Bede. The fatal battle of Heathfield, 
 in which the King" fell, and his army was almost 
 destroyed, broke up the great work of conversion, 
 whose success had been so sudden and brilliant. 
 The widowed queen, with her only daughter and 
 the two sons of her husband by his former 
 marriage, took refuge in flight, and reaching Kent 
 in safety with her faithful chaplain, Paulinus, asked 
 of her brother Eadbald the gift of the ancient 
 park and villa of Lyminge, a Roman foundation of 
 importance, out of whose materials she built 
 her monastery and nunnery a double foundation 
 according to the Benedictine usage of that early 
 day and received the veil from Archbishop 
 Honorius in the latter end of the year 633. 
 Lyminge became thus the second monastery and 
 (with Folkestone) the first nunnery founded by 
 the Saxons in England, and as Montalembert, in 
 his " Moines d' Occident," observes, "forms the 
 link of connection between the two great centres 
 of Catholic life in England," Canterbury and York.
 
 88 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 But she founded her nunnery not for herself 
 alone, but for her niece Mildretha or Miltrude, 
 who succeeded her as Abbess in 647. But who, 
 it may be asked, was this Mildred ? Certainly not 
 the far greater saint of Thanet, who lived a 
 generation after. And how in any case could she 
 have been the niece of Ethelburga, whose only 
 recognised niece was the only daughter of her 
 only brother King Eadbald ? The only means of 
 reconciling the statements of the chroniclers with 
 the pedigree of the Kentish kings is the 
 assignment of her origin to that unlawful marriage 
 of Eadbald with his step-mother, which caused so 
 grave a scandal in the early church of Kent, and 
 which led to the suppression of the names of both 
 mother and daughter in the genealogies. The 
 fact that this Mildred was buried in the same 
 grave with Ethelburga, and the confusion 
 occasioned by the attempt to identify her with her 
 later namesake, led to that controversy between 
 the inheritors of their respective relics, the monks 
 of S. Augustine and the Canons of S. Gregory in 
 Canterbury, which continued smouldering until 
 the rival foundations and the bones of contention 
 were mingled together in the ruin of the 
 dissolution. The Danish invasions had in the
 
 THE CHURCH OF LYMINGE. 89 
 
 ninth century rendered the isolated position of the 
 nuns one of continual danger, and in the opening 
 of that century the nunnery was removed to 
 Canterbury, Ccenulf and Cuthred having granted 
 by a charter to " the Abbess Selethrytha and her 
 family at the church of S. Mary ever- Virgin, 
 which is situate in the place called Limming, 
 where rests the body of S. Eadburg (ubi pausat 
 corpus B. Eadburgae), a portion of land in the 
 city of Canterbury, ad necessitatis refugium" 
 
 The incursions of the Danes soon rendered the 
 position of the Monastery no less untenable, and 
 gave S. Dunstan an opportunity of carrying out 
 his great plan of suppressing the double 
 foundations. He accordingly removed the monks 
 to Canterbury in the year 965, and restored the 
 church, having obtained a charter in 960, 
 addressed no longer to the monastery or " family " 
 of Lyminge, but to the church itself. " When 
 the manor and church came thus into the hands 
 of the Archbishops, they are said by the ancient 
 chroniclers to have restored it 'in a certain 
 fashion,' utcumque restauraverunt" And the 
 extraordinary rudeness of their work, a kind of 
 wild imitation of the almost Roman work of the 
 original church, and out of the materials of it, is
 
 90 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 the most conspicuous feature of the chancel and 
 south wall of the nave, which are the undoubted 
 work of Dunstan. In these we find irregular 
 herring-bone work, with bonding courses of 
 Roman bricks and flat stones, with occasional 
 courses of large blocks of stone, and the widest 
 jointed masonry (if it could be called such) that 
 can possibly be found. The character of these 
 walls is unique, and indicates the extraordinary 
 rudeness of the Saxon work of the Transition 
 period, which it represents. A portion of the 
 south wall of the nave is built upon a fragment of 
 the north wall of Ethelburga's Church, and 
 exhibits a masonry of the closest kind, almost 
 resembling a mosaic-work. This formed part of 
 the outer wall of the original church, enclosing the 
 remarkable apsidal remain which contains the 
 burial-place of the Queen, which is now clearly 
 disclosed, a fragment of the outward plastering 
 being even now visible. This interesting remain 
 was discovered in 1859, and is an object of the 
 greatest interest to the many visitors of the 
 church. 
 
 In 1085, Lanfranc, in order to endow his new 
 foundation of S. Gregory at Canterbury with 
 relics of sufficient importance, bestowed upon it
 
 THE CHURCH OF LYMINGE. 91 
 
 those of Ethelburga which were disinterred by 
 the priest of the place, Radulfus, and received 
 with great pomp by the Gregorian Canons. 
 With the body of the queen there was found also 
 the body of her niece, and upon this began the 
 great conflict between the religious of the rival 
 foundations. A remarkable unpublished treatise 
 of the Augustinian monk Goscelinus (A.D. 1097) 
 gives us the early history of the controversy, and 
 describes the translation of the relics. The 
 destruction of the burial place is still distinctly 
 traceable in the different masonry and mortar 
 used for restoring the wall, against, and indeed 
 under which, it was constructed. Lanfranc, who is 
 said to have imported square stones from Caen 
 for building his manor-houses, raised upon the 
 ancient foundations of the monastic buildings a 
 palace which both he and the successive archbishops 
 occupied in succession with their other numerous 
 manor-houses in Kent and Sussex. In 1279, 
 Archbishop Peckham held a grand court at the 
 Aula or Camera de Lyminge, and received there 
 the homage of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of 
 Gloucester, who came with a great retinue to take 
 the oath of feudal obedience to the archbishop. 
 Archbishop Winchelsey and his successors up to ,
 
 92 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 the time of Courtenay occasionally resided here ; 
 but the last, finding himself overhoused, and seeing 
 the necessity of having a residence rather of the 
 military than the civil type, obtained permission 
 from the king and the priory to pull down some 
 of his manor-houses in order to build the Castle 
 of Saltwood, the stones being chiefly reserved for 
 the nearest churches or chapels. It is to this 
 reservation that we are indebted for the present 
 massive tower, whose stones become larger as 
 they approach the top, indicating the fact that the 
 builders had come to the larger blocks of the 
 foundation when they arrived at the upper portion 
 of the work. The arms of Cardinal Morton and 
 Archbishop Warham on the sides of the western 
 door lead to the conclusion that the work extended 
 from about 1486 to 1527, in which latter year the 
 last benefaction towards it is mentioned. The 
 body of the church underwent a considerable 
 change at a somewhat earlier date. An ancient 
 north chapel (probably added by William Preene, 
 the rector in 1404) appears to have been utilised 
 for the completion of a north aisle, which is 
 separated from the nave by an arcade of great 
 lightness and beauty, a very fine specimen of 
 Tudor work. This improvement was most
 
 THE CHURCH OF L YMINGE. 93 
 
 probably effected by Cardinal Bourchier, whose 
 arms in stained glass were originally in the east 
 window of the aisle, and are now to be seen in the 
 early window over the porch. In the south wall 
 of the nave is a very curious recess, formed of 
 Roman bricks, which appears to indicate the place 
 of an altar. The chancel arch, of the most 
 massive structure and extending to the walls on 
 either side, appears, as well as the remarkable 
 flying buttress at the south-east angle of the 
 chancel, to have been one of the repairs effected 
 by Archbishop Peckham, in 1279-80. He found 
 that his predecessor, Archbishop Boniface, had 
 left the churches and manor-houses of the 
 see in such a state of disrepair as to need the 
 disbursement of large .sums for their restoration. 
 These arches belong to that century, and may 
 therefore be reasonably assigned to his work. 
 The east window of the chancel, inserted in 
 close-jointed masonry, which is singularly 
 contrasted with the wide joints of the earlier work, 
 was probably among the repairs enjoined by 
 Archbishop Warham on his visitation in 1511. 
 
 The ruin of the manor-house and the adjacent 
 buildings had begun in the days of Archbishop 
 Arundel, and is described in the inventory of his
 
 94 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 property taken by a commission held at Lyminge, 
 on the occasion of his brief attainder. The 
 stained glass window of the chancel, the work 
 of the late Mr. Gibbs, of Bedford Square, 
 representing the Nativity, the adoration of the 
 shepherds and of the Magi, is designed in its 
 lower tier to illustrate the humiliation of Christ, 
 the upper portion exhibiting the Saviour 
 enthroned in glory, surrounded by the Apostles, 
 while the crown of the arches contains the 
 symbols of the Evangelists. 
 
 The manor, which originally was one of the 
 largest in Kent, extending over Romney Marsh, 
 and to the borders of Sussex on the south, and in 
 the west covering several parishes in the weald, 
 was surrendered by Cranmer to the crown, 
 together with the advowson of the rectory and 
 vicarage of Lyminge, with the ancient chapelries 
 of Stanford (afterwards including Westenhanger) 
 and Paddlesworth. The last still forms a part of 
 the rectory of Lyminge, though it constitutes a 
 separate parish. The entire estate was granted 
 by King Henry VIII. to Sir Anthony Aucher, 
 the Master of the Jewels, who was killed in the 
 siege of Calais under Queen Mary. It passed to 
 his elder son, whose only daughter was married
 
 THE CHURCH OF LYMINGE. 95 
 
 to Sir Humphrey Gilbert, the half-brother of Sir 
 Walter Raleigh, then to the second branch of the 
 Auchers (of Bourne Place, in Bishopsbourne), 
 and from them through the Roberts and 
 Taylor families to the Lord Chancellor (Lord 
 Loughborough), from whom it was purchased by 
 the family of Price. 
 
 It is now held by the trustees of the late Mr. 
 Kelcey. The advowsons which were granted 
 separately, by a deed now preserved in the 
 British Museum, and signed by Cranmer himself, 
 passed through the same successive ownerships, 
 but were separated from the manor in 1853. The 
 living is a rectory and a vicarage, and had until 
 recent times a double succession, the rectory 
 having been bestowed as a sinecure on many 
 persons of great eminence in the church. Among 
 these may be mentioned Adam de Murimuth, the 
 historian, Cardinal Gaucelinus de Ossa, the 
 nephew of Pope John the XXII., William de 
 Cusaneia, keeper of the king's wardrobe, 
 Audomarus de Rupy, Archdeacon of Canter- 
 bury, Philip Morgan, Bishop of Worcester, and 
 others. 
 
 The ancient charters relating to the 
 monastery and church, most of them originals,
 
 96 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 and fourteen in number, are to be found 
 in the Harleian and Cotton collections in the 
 British Museum, and in the Library of 
 Canterbury Cathedral. They are published in 
 the Saxon Chartulary of Kemble, and extend 
 from 689 to 960.
 
 Canterbury pilgrims anfc their Sojourn 
 in tbe City. 
 
 BY THE REV. W. J. FOXEI.L, B.A. 
 
 " I "HERE is no place within the whole length 
 -A- and breadth of England which surpasses in 
 interest and charm the ancient city of Canterbury. 
 All through the summer months, day after day, 
 fresh crowds of visitors veritable Canterbury 
 pilgrims flock to catch a glimpse of its quaint 
 old houses, the massive relics of the walls which 
 once girt it round, and above all its venerable 
 cathedral. 
 
 " He that Seville hath not seen 
 Is no traveller I ween," 
 
 runs the well known jingle, but our patriotism 
 may well be excused if we substitute Canterbury 
 for Seville. To have seen Canterbury, to have 
 trodden its streets, to have studied its memorials, 
 to have unearthed the history which lies embedded 
 within it, to have listened to the story which its 
 magnificent church has to tell where " the stone 
 
 cries out of the wall and the beam out of the 
 
 H
 
 98 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 timber answers it"- this is, in sober truth, 
 a "liberal education." 
 
 The poetic attractiveness of old Canterbury 
 extends to regions far beyond our own country. 
 Across the Atlantic, from the shores of that new 
 world whose history is but of yesterday, our 
 American cousins come in search of the ancient 
 and the picturesque. We know those enterprising 
 travellers go everywhere : they must " do " 
 everything. But no place charms them more 
 than the sleepy old city that lies in the hollow of 
 the Stour valley, between the hills of S. Thomas 
 on the west and S. Martin on the east. And 
 hither, too, flock all manner of tourists the 'Arry 
 from Margate, the business man from town, 
 artists and amateur photographers galore, clerics 
 of every degree and every shade of theological 
 opinion, Royalty itself. 
 
 History, it is said, repeats itself; and the 
 nineteenth century tourist is, for the most part, 
 but a new edition of the mediaeval pilgrim, who 
 hurried to the tomb of the famous martyr, devout 
 in the veneration of relics, or anxious in the 
 search for health. In these days the point of 
 interest is mainly aesthetic and antiquarian ; but 
 in those old times the motive of the pilgrimage
 
 CANTERB UR Y PIL GRIMS. 99 
 
 was chiefly a religious one. Either the pilgrimage 
 was undertaken as a penitential exercise or as a 
 pious duty ; or, as in very many cases, the pilgrim 
 was suffering from some obstinate complaint and 
 came to worship at S. Thomas's shrine, in the 
 confident expectation that the saint would work a 
 miracle and restore him to health, as he had 
 restored so many. 
 
 Every schoolboy knows that Thomas a Becket 
 was murdered in Canterbury Cathedral in 1170. 
 Before that momentous event took place there 
 was hardly anything to mark off Canterbury 
 Cathedral from any other of the great Benedictine 
 churches of Norman foundation. It is true that 
 the great church of Canterbury could trace its 
 history back to St. Augustine, and to times even 
 prior to him. From the first, its ecclesiastical 
 jurisdiction, its privileges, its authority had been 
 considerable, Lanfranc and Anselm had shed a 
 glory over the chair of S. Augustine names that 
 could never pass into oblivion. But still, all these 
 were circumstances intangible in themselves, and 
 incapable from their very nature of awaking any 
 great popular enthusiasm. The martyrdom of 
 " S. Thomas of Canterbury " changed all this. 
 
 The dispute between Henry II. and the proud
 
 zoo BYGONE KENT. 
 
 prelate who had been so strenuous for his rights 
 and privileges, had culminated in the tragic deed 
 of that December evening, when the four knights 
 brutally murdered the Archbishop within the 
 sacred walls of the cathedral itself. Visitors to the 
 cathedral are shown the actual spot in the 
 " Martyrdom "-the name ever since given to the 
 north transept of the nave, the scene of the 
 murder where Becket fell. They descend the 
 steps by which the Crypt is entered, passing 
 beneath the very arch under which, the day after 
 the murder, the dead body of the archbishop was 
 carried from before the high altar, where it had 
 rested for one night, to its burial place at the east 
 end of the Crypt. In less than three years 
 Becket had become a saint, duly canonised by 
 Pope Alexander III. ; and four years after the 
 murder, the king himself in the humble dress 
 of a poor pilgrim knelt at this tomb in the 
 Crypt, and then and there submitted to do 
 penance by scourging at the hands of the 
 assembled monks and bishops. 
 
 And now the fame of the miracles which were 
 beginning to be wrought at the tomb, gradually 
 spread far and wide. What those miracles were 
 we are not left simply to ourselves to imagine.
 
 CANTERB UR Y PIL GRIMS. i o i 
 
 Accounts of them have come down to us, and 
 pictorial memorials of some are still preserved 
 in the three remarkable stained-glass windows 
 situated in the north wall of the Trinity Chapel 
 where stood the shrine after the " Translation "- 
 which have survived the brutal energy of Henry 
 VIII. and the fanatical zeal of the Roundheads. 
 The old monkish chronicler rejoiced to describe 
 the Becket miracles, quoting the language of the 
 Gospels : 
 
 " The blind see, the lame walk, the lepers are 
 cleansed, the deaf hear, the dead are raised, the 
 dumb speak, the poor have the gospel preached 
 to them, the paralytic, the dropsical, the lunatic, 
 the epileptic, the fever-patient, all are cured." 
 Passing wonderful are some of these miracles. 
 Here, for instance, on one window is depicted the 
 story of the boy who, playing by the banks of the 
 Medway, fell into the stream and was drowned, 
 and who, after having been three hours in the 
 water, was dragged out, and restored to life with 
 a few drops of the martyr's blood. It was the 
 fame of such wonders which drew an ever- 
 increasing tide of pilgrims to the shrine. 
 
 At first for the fifty years between 1 1 70 and 
 1 2 20 the body of the saint reposed in the tomb
 
 102 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 in the Crypt that tomb which was the scene of 
 so many miracles, and which is represented so 
 often in the three windows mentioned above. At 
 length, the seventh of July 1220 witnessed the 
 grand ceremony of the "translation" of the 
 precious bones to the gorgeous shrine destined to 
 receive the holy relics in the Trinity Chapel 
 above. Magnificent was the celebration of this 
 great function. During the space of the two 
 years before it took place, proclamation had been 
 made throughout Christendom of the forthcoming 
 festival, and preparation was made for the 
 reception of those who would be drawn to it from 
 all parts. The young king Henry III., the aged 
 Cardinal Archbishop, Stephen Langton, he who 
 had wrung from John the great Charter of 
 English liberty, Hubert de Burgh, the Arch- 
 bishop of Rheims, Primate of France, Pandulf, 
 the papal legate, were the most distinguished of 
 those who took part in that day's glorious ceremony. 
 Thus to the original Festival of the Martyrdom, 
 December 29th, was added the Festival of the 
 Translation, July 7th, destined to be more popular 
 still, as occurring in summer time, when, of 
 course, travelling would be better, and pilgrimages 
 could be undertaken with less peril and greater
 
 CANTERB UR Y PIL GRIMS. \ 03 
 
 ease. Thus, too, a fresh impetus was given to 
 that swelling tide which flowed from all parts of 
 England and of Europe of those who came 
 
 " The holy blissful martyr for to seek, 
 That them hath holpen when that they were sick." 
 
 From all parts of England, from Normandy, from 
 Brittany, from France came pious pilgrims. But 
 best known to us are those that travelled along- 
 
 O 
 
 the London Road. It is this road to the shrine 
 which is the scene of Chaucer's great poem, 
 " The Canterbury Tales." Foreigners would 
 wend their way along the Sandwich Road, having 
 landed at that port ; other pilgrims, from the west 
 of England, as well as from abroad, would have 
 landed at Southampton, and followed the rough 
 track which led from thence to Canterbury. But 
 it is Chaucer's pilgrims, it is that company of " all 
 sorts and conditions of men " which assembled on 
 that April day at the Old Tabard Inn at South- 
 wark, and which he has immortalised " the 
 knight, the yeoman, the prioress, with her 
 attendant nuns and three priests, the monk, the 
 friar, the merchant, the Oxford Scholar, the 
 lawyer, the squire, the five tradesmen, the cook, 
 the shiprnan, the physician, the great clothier of 
 Bath, the parish priest, the miller, the reeve, the
 
 104 BYGOXE KENT. 
 
 manciple, the apparitor of the law courts, the 
 seller of indulgences, and the poet himself: " it is 
 these over whom our imagination loves to linger. 
 How we wish that the poet had told us more of that 
 old world which has passed away never to return : 
 that he had let us see more of that life sc utterly 
 different from this hurry-scurry of existence which 
 we call life to-day. We can gain but a few 
 tantalising glimpses here and there. 
 
 The action of the poem occupies one day ; in 
 other words, the pilgrims take a whole day to go 
 from London to Canterbury. But long as this 
 time may seem to us, in these days of the " Boat 
 Express," which, running between London and 
 Dover, reaches Canterbury in less than ninety 
 minutes yet even so the poet is romancing. As 
 a rule, in Chaucer's time it took three or four 
 days to accomplish the journey ; but practical 
 conditions of time and space do not trammel the 
 poet. The motley company start from London 
 at dawn. Deptford and Greenwich are reached 
 in an hour or two : by noon Rochester " standeth 
 here fast by " and so the journey is continued 
 through " Sidenbourne " and " Boughton under 
 Blee." The road now becomes a succession of 
 hilly steeps and sudden dips. The pilgrims are
 
 CA NTERB UR Y PILGRIMS. 1 05 
 
 nearing the famous city, arid all eyes are strained 
 to catch from the top of one of these hills the first 
 sight of the great Tower of the Cathedral the 
 predecessor of the present one surmounted as it 
 then was with a gilded angel. And then just before 
 they reached the last hill of all, which slopes down 
 into Canterbury, they passed through Harbledown, 
 the 
 
 " Little town, 
 
 Which that ycleped is bob-up-and-down, 
 Under the Blee in Canterbury way." 
 
 The tedium of the journey had hitherto been 
 alleviated with "music, song, and merry tales:" 
 but now as they came nearer holy ground, they 
 engaged in more fitting exercises prayers and 
 telling of beads and serious converse. At 
 Harbledown they would pass the old leper 
 hospital of S. Nicholas, founded about 1084 by 
 Lanfranc. An old alms-box is still preserved 
 here, such as was hung out at the end of a long 
 pole to receive from pilgrims and travellers 
 whatever charity might prompt them to give. It 
 may well be that this is the very box into which 
 the cultured Erasmus let fall a coin when he was 
 on his way back from Canterbury to London, 
 after that visit which with Dean Colet he paid
 
 106 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 to the shrine, and of which he has left so 
 interesting and entertaining an account. Here also 
 is still shown a crystal, now set in a maple bowl, 
 but formerly adorning, it may be, the very shoe 
 of the martyred saint. The leather of the shoe 
 itself has long since disappeared, but we know it 
 was for centuries religiously preserved, and when 
 presented for Erasmus and his companion to kiss, 
 it still contained the crystal. Successive 
 generations of pilgrims must have stayed a few 
 moments here that they might venerate so sacred 
 a relic. 
 
 Just before the city itself is reached, the road 
 takes a sharp turn to the East. At the corner of 
 the road stands the ancient church of S. Dunstan, 
 also founded by Lanfranc. Here it was that one 
 celebrated pilgrim to Becket's tomb already 
 mentioned Henry II., having first dismounted 
 at the hospital of S. Nicholas, changed his royal 
 robes for the plain tunic and cloak of the pilgrim, 
 and so walked barefoot to the scene of his 
 voluntary humiliation. 
 
 The band of pilgrims would enter by the West 
 Gate. At that time Canterbury was like the 
 Homeric Thebes " seven-gated : " now, alas, 
 this west gate is the only one which has survived
 
 CANTERBUR Y PILGRIMS. 
 
 107 
 
 the positive mania for destruction which seemed 
 to possess the worthy civic authorities of the last 
 century. The company would pass along the 
 High Street each individual anxious to secure 
 lodgings for the night they were to spend in the 
 city. There was many a hospitable roof ready to 
 
 NORMAN STAIRCASE, CANTERBURY. 
 
 shelter them : first and foremost the great 
 monastery, of which the Cathedral formed part ; 
 then the Abbey of S. Augustine, so long its rival 
 in fame and power ; then the houses of the friars, 
 " Black," " Grey," and " Austin ; " as well as the 
 various " hospitals " of S. Gregory, S. Lawrence,
 
 io8 J3YGONE KENT. 
 
 S. John, S. Margaret, and S. Thomas. This last, 
 founded about the beginning of the thirteenth 
 century expressly for the reception of poorer 
 pilgrims, cannot escape the notice of the observant 
 visitor of to-day, standing, as it does, by the 
 Eastbridge, on the south side of the High Street. 
 In addition to these, there were inns and 
 taverns and hostelries without number. But, 
 most famous of all, there was the inn standing at 
 the south-west corner of Mercery Lane " The 
 Chequer of the Hope," with its " Dormitory of 
 the Hundred Beds." Here, according to the 
 anonymous poet, the author of the " Supplemen- 
 tary Tale," " the Continuator " of Chaucer (for 
 it will be remembered that Chaucer does no more 
 than bring his pilgrims up to the city) the twenty- 
 nine pilgrims of the "Tales" put up for the one 
 night during which they would remain in the city. 
 
 " When all this fresh fellowship were come to Canterbury 
 As ye have heard to fore, with tales glad and merry. 
 
 They took their Inn, and lodged them at midmorrow, I trow, 
 At Chequer of the Hope that many a man doth know ; 
 Their host of Southwark, that with them went, as ye have 
 
 heard to fore, 
 
 That was ruler of them all, of less and eke of more, 
 Ordained their dinner wisely ere they to church went, 
 Such victuals as he found in town, and for none other sent."
 
 CANTERB UR Y PIL OR IMS. 1 09 
 
 The building itself still stands, preserving 
 something of its mediaeval appearance, but the 
 houses of which it now consists are no longer an 
 inn. Gone is the courtyard into which the 
 mounted pilgrims rode, with their horses' hoofs 
 clattering on the rough stones : gone too is the 
 ancient staircase, which stood on the outside of 
 the inn. We can imagine pilgrims arriving on 
 the eve of either of the two great festivals of S. 
 Thomas to find the whole city en fete : some 
 delighted with the novelty of everything, with 
 the bustle and the air of festivity, others anxiously 
 expecting the hour which was to bring solace to 
 the soul and blessing to the body all intent on 
 paying their homage at the famous shrine. 
 
 What a red-letter day in their lives was that 
 when the pilgrims set foot within the walls of the 
 church itself! At the door a monk sprinkled 
 them with holy water : and once in the cathedral, 
 they passed on from one rare sight to another, 
 from one glory to another yet greater. To the 
 visitor of our time, the interior of Canterbury 
 Cathedral looks somewhat bare. The mediaeval 
 pilgrim, it may be fairly said, would hardly 
 recognise it now : he would miss the gay hangings 
 and tapestries, the many side-altars and chapels
 
 no BYGONE KENT. 
 
 fitted up for worship, and so much, alas, of the 
 old stained-glass, the figures and the designs of 
 which set the pilgrims disputing in the manner so 
 amusingly narrated by the " Continuator." 
 
 " He beareth a balstaff, quoth the toon, and else a raked end. 
 Thou failest, quoth the miller, thou hast not well thy mind, 
 It is a spear, if thou canst see, with a prick to fore 
 To push adown his enemy and through the shoulder bore. 
 Peace, quoth the host of Southwark, let stand the window 
 
 glazed, 
 Go up and do your offering, ye seemeth half amazed." 
 
 Eastward up the nave the pilgrims would 
 move, and so reach the north transept the 
 " Martyrdom." The spot where S. Thomas was 
 killed would be pointed out to them ; and the 
 wooden .altar, set up to mark where the martyr 
 fell ; and the broken sword-blade belonging to 
 one of the four knights who had murdered him. 
 Thence they would go to the Crypt to the spot 
 where stood the first tomb, where also a most 
 sacred relic awaited their veneration part of the 
 martyr's skull, set in silver. It was here, as 
 he tells us, that Erasmus saw the celebrated 
 hair-shirt, which the monks found on Becket's 
 body when they stripped it after the murder. 
 
 The choir was next visited, where still more 
 and more sacred relics were exhibited by an
 
 CA NTERB UK Y PIL GRIMS. 1 1 1 
 
 attendant monk, and devoutly kissed by the 
 pilgrims. To many a pilgrim, no doubt, would 
 be shown the costly vestments and ornaments 
 and vessels of the sanctuary, a list of which still 
 exists : chasubles, copes, tunics, dalmatics, and 
 albs, almost / without number ; crosses, chalices, 
 and patens ; mitres and pastoral staffs ; rings and 
 precious stones, and sacred books. 
 
 Onward and upward still they would go, 
 mounting the steps leading to the Trinity Chapel 
 on their knees, till at length they stood before the 
 great shrine itself. The shrine consisted of two 
 parts, the stone pedestal with arches, and the 
 shrine proper ; the latter encased in a canopy of 
 wood, which could be raised at any moment by 
 pulling ropes suspended from the ceiling. Round 
 the lower part of the shrine, the sick and infirm 
 thronged and pressed. There was healing virtue 
 in the very stones on which the body of the 
 saint rested. We can but faintly imagine the 
 overpowering emotions of those who had travelled 
 many a weary mile, as at length they found 
 themselves laid at the foot of the martyr's shrine, 
 when health and happiness seemed to lie once 
 more within their grasp. The feelings so created, 
 when the very depths of the soul were stirred,
 
 ii2 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 were sufficient, we cannot doubt, to work a 
 complete cure in some cases of nervous disorder. 
 Then, last of all, the canopy was raised, and the 
 gorgeous ark, the shrine, was displayed to view. 
 What a sight it was, glittering in gold and 
 precious stones ! Specially remarkable, rivetting 
 all eyes, was the wondrous ruby, which had been 
 given to the original tomb in the crypt by Louis 
 VII. of France when he came as a pilgrim. The 
 gem so the legend ran which had at first been 
 refused by the king, had leapt of its own accord 
 from the ring in which it was set, and fastened 
 itself to the tomb, "as if a goldsmith had fixed it 
 there." Can we wonder that religious piety in 
 that simple age was profoundly stimulated by 
 such marvellous tales? The pilgrims, the old 
 rhymster tells us, 
 
 "Prayed to S. Thomas in such wise as they couth 
 And sith the holy relics each man with his mouth 
 Kissed as a goodly monk the names told and taught." 
 
 After the pilgrims had feasted their eyes on all 
 this wealth and splendour, while they were still 
 under the spell of so much that was grand and 
 mysterious and holy, they made their offerings, 
 and so went their way ; to give place to others 
 who were following close upon them as
 
 CANTERB UR Y PIL GRIMS. 1 1 3 
 
 they did on great occasions in a continuous 
 stream. 
 
 But the pilgrimage was not completely finished 
 unless the pilgrim took away with him a 
 permanent memorial of his visit in the shape of 
 a little "ampulla," or leaden bottle, to be obtained 
 in the monastery, and containing water mixed 
 with a small portion and in the course of 
 centuries it must have been the merest trace of 
 the blood of S. Thomas. Leaving the monastery, 
 the pilgrims would pass along Mercery Lane to 
 the " Chequer of the Hope." Before the Civil War 
 in the seventeenth century, there was a colonnade 
 on each side of this lane, in front of the shops. 
 Under this colonnade (which no longer exists, as 
 the shopkeepers took advantage of the general 
 unsettlement during the Commonwealth to 
 encroach upon it, and to bring their shop fronts 
 forward so as to include it) they would make 
 their way, at every step encountering the eager 
 shopkeepers, pressing on them to buy all manner of 
 mementos, especially a cap^lt Thoma, a leaden 
 brooch with the mitred head of the martyr 
 upon it. Dinner was awaiting them at the 
 Chequer: and after dinner the sights of the 
 city especially its massive walls, would be
 
 ii 4 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 visited, or friends and old acquaintances would 
 be looked up. 
 
 Past for ever is the age of such things. It 
 concerns us not now to discuss whether " miracles" 
 do or "do not happen." Certainly now no 
 miracles happen at the shrine of S. Thomas ! 
 The end came in 1538, when, in the September 
 of that year, the tomb was destroyed. No record 
 exists describing its actual destruction, and hence 
 some doubt lingers not about the fact, it is true 
 but about the manner. Most probably the 
 bones were burned and " scattered to the winds." 
 As for the gold and silver and precious stones, 
 and all the valuables, Henry VIII. exercised his 
 royal prerogative to seize them for himself. 
 
 Nothing now remains but the vacant space 
 where once the shrine stood. The pavement still 
 gives evidence by the marks upon it of the rough- 
 and-ready way in which the smashing of precious 
 relics went on while the depression in the floor, 
 worn by the toes of those who knelt upon the 
 step above, alone marks the scene of so many 
 prayers and supplications and vows and thanks- 
 givings !
 
 William Uambarbe, tbe Ikentisb 
 antiquary 
 
 BY FREDERICK Ross, F.R.H.S. 
 
 KENT occupies a foremost position among 
 the counties of England in regard to 
 antiquities and historical associations. It was 
 the Cantii, the Celtic inhabitants of Kent, who 
 opposed so vigorously the landing of Julius Caesar 
 near upon two thousand years ago, and whose 
 country afterwards constituted a portion of the 
 Roman province of Britannia Prima. It was here 
 in the 5th century, after the departure of the 
 Romans, that Vortigern and Hengist contended 
 for the empire in two pitched battles, resulting in 
 the conquest by Hengist, the loss of four thousand 
 natives on the battlefield, and the establishment 
 of the Saxon Kingdom of Kent. It was here 
 where S. Augustine planted the banner of the 
 Cross, and re-established the Church and 
 Bishopric of Canterbury, on the spot where there 
 had been a Church and Bishopric of the Apostolic 
 Age, which had been trampled out by the
 
 n 6 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 paganism of the Jutes and Saxons. And ever 
 since has Kent been the scene of important and 
 often tragical events in history, politics, social 
 upheavals of the serf claims, and, above all, of 
 significant incidents of an ecclesiastical character. 
 
 Thus there is in the annals of Kent, and in the 
 castles, abbeys, and towns of the county, an abun- 
 dance of material to occupy the pen of the 
 historian and topographical antiquary ; and it was 
 fitting and appropriate that the first published 
 county history should be that of Kent. 
 
 General topographical writers, who have 
 included Kent, there have been from the 2nd 
 century downwards, a series of geographers, 
 topographers, and annalists, some fairly correct, 
 others fabulous and abounding in miracles, such 
 as, says Fuller, it is difficult to digest. Of these 
 Ptolemy was the earliest, who was followed by 
 Antoninus Pius, whose works are invaluable as 
 records of the past. The writings of Julius 
 Caesar and Tacitus are scarcely worth mentioning 
 as topographical works and much the same 
 may be said of Strabo, Pomponius, and other 
 copyists. Then followed the Monkish Chroniclers, 
 amongst whom Bede and Giraldus Cambrensis 
 stand out prominently ; and Geoffrey of
 
 WILLIAM LA MBARDE. 1 1 7 
 
 Monmouth, of the i2th century, who published 
 some most astounding stories hence to the time 
 of Henry VIII., when modern antiquarian and 
 topographical research may be said to have had 
 its birth. 
 
 Leland, a Londoner born, may be considered 
 the father of modern antiquaries. He lived in the 
 1 6th century, in the reign Henry VIII., who 
 appointed him to the office of the Royal 
 Librarian, and in 1533 "King's Antiquary," the 
 first and last to hold the office, whose duty was 
 " to search out England's historical antiquities, 
 and peruse the libraries of all Cathedrals, Abbies, 
 Priories, and Colleges, and all places wherein 
 records, writings, and secrets of antiquity were 
 preserved." In 1536, he was given a dispensa- 
 tion from residence in his living of Popeling, and 
 for six years wandered forth over England, 
 visiting and examining all the conventual, 
 ecclesiastical, and collegiate libraries, " con- 
 cerning," as he said " many good autors the which 
 otherwise had been like to have perischid." As a 
 result of his journeyings he wrote "The 
 laboryeuse journey and serche of Johan Leylande 
 for Englande's antiquitees, geuen of hym as a 
 New Yeares gifte to Kynge Henry the VIII. in
 
 n8 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 the xxx vij. yeare of his Regne ;" dedicated to King 
 Edward VI. by John Bale, 1549. The " Itinerary 
 of John Leland the Antiquary," published from the 
 original MS. in the Bodleian Library, by 
 Thomas Hearne, M.A., 1710-12. These works 
 have served as the foundations of all subsequent 
 antiquarian and topographical researches. Ralf 
 Brooke, who printed Leland's " New Yeares 
 Gifte," says to Camden that he has done it "to 
 the ende that the world may know with whose 
 plumes you have feathered your nest, and to show 
 who was the first author of the new born 
 ' Britannia,' he whose name is clean rased out 
 or you who have taken the tytle and whole credit 
 to yourself." He was a learned man, and the 
 author of some other works, and died in the year 
 
 1552. 
 
 The Tudor age sees the birth and labours 
 of the three great antiquaries Leland, 1506-52, 
 Lambarde, 1536-1601, and Camden, 1551-1623, 
 who, discarding the miracles and fables of monkish 
 chroniclers, based the annals of England on a 
 sure foundation of fact, and taught writers that 
 the history of towns, counties, and limited 
 localities, with descriptions of their peculiarities 
 and ancient remains, are deserving of record. Of
 
 WILLIAM LAMBARDE. 1 1 9 
 
 these writers, Lambarde, the second in date, less 
 rugged than Leland, and less polished than 
 Camden, will occupy our attention for a few 
 paragraphs. " I am now," says Camden, "come 
 to Kent, a county which William Lambarde, 
 a person eminent for piety and learning, has 
 described so much to the life in a complete 
 volume, and who has withal been so happy in his 
 searches, that he has left very little for those that 
 come after him. ... I here gratefully 
 acknowledge that his work is my foundation." 
 
 " Let this be observed for the honour of Kent," 
 says Kennet, in his life of Somner, " that while 
 other counties (and but few of them) have met 
 with single pens to give the history and descrip- 
 tion of them ; ours has had no less than four 
 writers to celebrate the glories of it (1570) 
 " Lambard, Somner, Kilburn, and Philpot." 
 Archdeacon Nicolson hopes he may be allowed 
 "to enlarge the catalogue" (1696), adding 
 " Lambarde's Perambulation of Kent, was indeed 
 the first account that was published, which was 
 not only highly applauded by Camden and other 
 chief judges, but gave the hint to many more 
 men of learning to endeavour the like services for 
 their several counties," further observing that
 
 JtENT. 
 
 " 'twas not well approved by the gentlemen of the 
 Roman Communion, notably Reiner, ' Antiquary 
 of Canterbury,' who censures it as a work under- 
 taken with a design to expose the lewdnesses and 
 debaucheries of the inhabitants of the monasteries 
 of that county, in describing whereof (he thinks) 
 many things are spitefully misrepresented." Dr. 
 Nicholson adds to the list of Kentish historical 
 writers the names of John Norden, whose 
 "Survey of Kent" remains in MS., John 
 Weaver, whose "Funeral Monuments" were 
 chiefly collected in the dioceses of Canterbury and 
 Rochester, Taylor's " History of Gavel- Kind," 
 Gillingham's " History of Canterbury," circa 1390, 
 John Twyne's " Canterbury," W. Somner's 
 "Survey of Canterbury," Spott's "Canterbury," 
 Archdeacon Battaly's " Antiquitates Rutupice," 
 Edm. Bedenham's " Textus Roffensis," etc. 
 
 The Lambardes were originally, as far back as 
 their recorded genealogy goes, a Herefordshire 
 family. Thomas Lambarde, " Gent.," of Ledbury, 
 who died early in the sixteenth century, was 
 father of William Lambarde of the same place, 
 whose son John settled in London, served 
 the office of Sheriff in 1551, and died in 1554; 
 having married Juliana, daughter and heiress of
 
 WILLIAM LAMBARDE. 1 2 1 
 
 William Herne, of London, by whom he had issue 
 two sons, William, the antiquary, and Giles, 
 of London, the latter of whom married Margaret, 
 daughter and co-heiress of John Stephenson, of 
 London. 
 
 William, the elder son, married, first Jane, 
 daughter of George Multon, secondly Silvestria, 
 daughter and heiress of Robert Deane, of Hailing, 
 Kent, and relict . of William Dalison, and had 
 issue by the latter with a daughter Margaret, 
 who married Thomas Godfrey, of Lydd, an only 
 son, Sir Multon, of Westcombe, near Greenwich, 
 who married Ann, daughter of Sir Thomas Lowe, 
 an alderman of London, and died in 1634. Sir 
 Multon was buried in Greenwich Old Church, 
 where a monument was placed to his memory, 
 which, with that of his father in the same church, 
 was removed to Sevenoaks, at the rebuilding of 
 Greenwich Church. 
 
 Thomas, his son, was a zealous Royalist during 
 the Civil War, had to compound for his estates in 
 1648, and in consequence was obliged to dispose 
 of Westcombe to Hugh Forth, from whom it passed 
 to the Biddulphs, Barts. It was purchased about 
 the year 1553, by Alderman John Lambarde, from 
 Nicholas Ballard, since which time it formed the
 
 122 B YGONE KENT. 
 
 residence of the Lambardes until 1648. In 1638 
 he married Isabella, daughter of Sir John Garrard, 
 Baronet, and had issue, with two daughters, 
 Thomas, who died sine prole, and William. 
 
 William, his son, of Beechmount, Sevenoaks, 
 married Magdalen Humphrey, and had issue 
 Thomas, his heir, and Sir Multon, Baronet, who 
 died in 1758. Thomas, his son, who died in 
 1 745, was father of another Thomas, who died in 
 1769, whose son, Multon, was born in 1757, and 
 died in 1836, and was succeeded by his elder son, 
 William, of Beechmount, who was born in 1796, 
 and had issue by his wife, Harriet Elizabeth, 
 daughter of Sir James Nasmyth, Baronet, 
 Multon, his heir, born in 1821, who married in 
 1848 Teresa Livesay, daughter of Edmund 
 Turton, and had issue John, Bell, William, 
 Edmund, and another son and daughter. Besides 
 whom William Lambarde had other issue six 
 sons and five daughters. 
 
 William Lambarde, the subject of this sketch, 
 was the son of Alderman John Lambarde of 
 London, the purchaser of the Manor of West 
 Combe, by Greenwich, in 1553, where his son 
 chiefly resided, and where he wrote most of his 
 works. He was born in the year 1536, presum-
 
 WILLIAM LAMBARDE. 123 
 
 ably in London, and was bred to the legal 
 profession, having been entered at Lincoln's Inn 
 in 1556, and distinguished himself early in his 
 career, by the publication of two or three legal 
 works, promising to become eminent in law, had 
 he not turned his attention more particularly to 
 the study of historical topography, then in its 
 infancy, when he took up his residence in Kent. 
 Nevertheless he attained a high degree in law, 
 having been elected a Bencher of Lincoln's Inn 
 in 1578; in 1592 a Master in Chancery; in 1597 
 Keeper of the Rolls in Chancery Lane ; and in 
 \6oo Keeper of the Records in the Tower. In 
 1579 he was appointed a Justice of the Peace for 
 the County of Kent, in which capacity his well- 
 grounded knowledge of the laws and customs of 
 Kent proved of great use to himself and his 
 brother justices. 
 
 At Lincoln's Inn he studied under Lawrence 
 No well, who was famous for his profound know- 
 ledge of the Anglo-Saxon tongue and antiquities, 
 from whom he imbibed that taste for antiquarian 
 learning which has rendered his name so famous 
 in the history of Kent. In 1576 he founded a 
 hospital at Greenwich for twenty poor persons, 
 male or female, with an original allowance of six
 
 124 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 shillings per month, afterwards increased to 
 fifteen shillings, and a yearly allowance of a 
 chaldron and half of coals ; preference in appoint- 
 ment to be given to aged, maimed, or blind, 
 persons impoverished by casualty, afflicted with 
 incurable sickness, or burthened with a large 
 family. He denominated the hospital "The 
 College of Queen Elizabeth," and placed it under 
 the charge of the Master of the Rolls and the 
 Drapers' Company. It is said to have been the 
 first institution of the kind founded by a 
 Protestant. 
 
 He was a staunch Protestant a protestor 
 against monkish tricks and miracles, and Popist 
 superstitions in general ; thus in the " Perambula- 
 tions," in speaking of Montindene, he states that 
 the Friars there, within memory, had an annual 
 procession in which " one berayed like a divel " 
 met the holy brethren and attempted to carry off 
 the cross, but was put to flight by the sprinkling 
 of holy water, " and thus forsooth, the virtue of 
 holy water in putting the divell to flight is 
 confirmed at Montindene by a demonstrative 
 argument ; which, if it be so, then greatly was St. 
 Paul deceaved in sixth of his epistle to the 
 Ephesians, where he goeth to arme us from toppe
 
 WILLIAM LAMBARDE. 1 2 5 
 
 to toe againste the assaultes of the divell, for 
 what needed he, good man, to recite sallet, 
 shield, sword, etc., when the holy waters ticke 
 would have served his turne." Respecting the 
 Boxley Rood of Grace, he informs us that a 
 carpenter having a block of wood, considered 
 with himself whether he should make it into 
 a bench or fashion it into a god, and finally 
 decided on the latter, whereupon he got together 
 some " wyer, paste, and paper," and with these 
 and his block of wood "he compacted a roode 
 of such exquixite arte, and excellencie that it 
 not onely matched in comelyness and due 
 proportion of the parts of the best of the 
 common sort, but in straunge motion, variety 
 of gesture, and nimbleness of joints, passed 
 al others that before had been scene ; the same 
 being able to bow downe and lift up itself, to 
 shake and stir the handes and feet, to nod the 
 head, to roll the eis, to wag the chaps, to bend the 
 brows, and finally to represent to this eie both the 
 proper motion of each member of the body, and 
 also a lively expresse and significant shew of a 
 well-contented or displeased minde." When 
 finished he placed it upon the back of a "jade" 
 and came into Kent to dispose of his god, but
 
 126 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 the "jade" persisted in going to Boxley 
 Abbey, and nowhere else, where it was 
 left, and rendered the Abbey a famous place of 
 pilgrimage. 
 
 " Lambarde," says the English Cyclopaedia, 
 " was one of the most accurate antiquaries of his 
 day, and in all respects a man of learning and 
 worth." 
 
 He died at his residence, Westcombe, in 1601, 
 and was buried in the parish church of Greenwich, 
 with a monument placed over his remains. On 
 the rebuilding of that church his remains were 
 removed to Sevenoaks Church, which had 
 become the burial-place of his descendants. 
 
 The " Memoirs of Lambarde " were published 
 in Vol. I., No. XLIL, of Nichols' " Biblio Topog. 
 Brit.," 1787. Works. : 
 
 " APXAIONOMIA, sive de priscis Anglorum 
 Legibus Libri, etc.," 1568; with Map of the 
 Saxon Heptarchy, Translation of a collection of 
 Saxon Laws, made by his College Tutor, 
 Lawrence Nowell. Reprinted in Wheloc's 
 edition of Bede, 1644. Bishop Nicholson styles 
 the translation " false and affected." 
 
 " ' A Perambulation of Kent,' collected and 
 written (for the most part) in the yeare 1570, and
 
 WILLIAM LAMBARDE. 127 
 
 now increased by the addition of some things 
 which the Author himself hath observed since 
 that time, 1576. The first history of any separate 
 county. The 3rd and 5th editions, 1640 and 
 1656, contain the Charters of the Cinque Ports, 
 and the edition of 1826, is preceded by a sketch 
 of the Author's life." 
 
 " Dictionarium Anglise topographicum et his- 
 toricum : an Alphabetical Account of the chief 
 places in England and Wales, with Portrait of the 
 Author, 1730. This work, intended for a general 
 Survey of England, was written before the 
 appearance of Camden's ' Britannia,' upon the 
 publication of which work he relinquished the 
 undertaking, and it did not see the light until 
 
 1730." 
 
 " Eirenarcha, or the offices of the Justices of 
 the Peace; in two books, 1581, several subse- 
 quent editions up to 1619." 
 
 " The Duties of Constables, Borsholders, 
 Tythingmen, etc., 1582. Several times reprinted, 
 up to 1637." 
 
 " Archion, or a commentary on the High 
 Courts of Justice in England, 1591."
 
 ZTbe IRevolt of the IDilleins in tbe 2Da\>6 of 
 Iking IRtcbarfc tbe Second 
 
 BY EDWARD LAMPLOUGH. 
 
 T) EHIND the mail-clad baron of the fourteenth 
 -L-J century, in costly panoply, with emblazoned 
 surcoat and crested helmet the advertisements 
 of his chivalric rank there rose a dramatic 
 background, with a mediaeval fortress frowning 
 over fertile acres, in which toiled some scores of 
 sturdy peasants the men whose sweat sustained 
 the profusion and pride of the barons, and 
 furnished them with pikemen and archers, when 
 clarions blared, and the King's standard was 
 carried over the borders of Scotland, or over sea 
 to France. 
 
 To such men as those Wiclif preached, and in 
 his free gospel there was a divine ring of free 
 humanity that touched the soul of vassal and 
 peasant, and increased their interest in the 
 rumours that reached them from beyond sea of 
 Van Artavelde and Dubois, with the white-hoods 
 at their back, and the lion of Flanders fleeing
 
 REVOLT OF THE VILLEINS. 129 
 
 before them ; of the armed resistance of the 
 French peasantry to the collectors of their 
 taxmasters. Commerce and trade were lifting the 
 inhabitants of the towns to freedom and affluence ; 
 and the peasant who abode in a town for a 
 twelve-month and a day, unclaimed of his lord, 
 became a free man. Between villein and noble 
 rose the merchant and manufacturer, yielding 
 allegiance only to the state, representing the 
 commons of England in Parliament, and by 
 example pointing the peasant to higher and truer 
 conditions of life. 
 
 The peasantry had suffered from the French 
 wars ; in the building of Windsor Castle, King 
 Edward had constrained each county to furnish 
 its proportion of the necessary workmen ; and 
 when the nation was scourged, and the population 
 reduced, by the sweating sickness, raising the 
 value of labour, a law was passed making the old 
 wages compulsory ; but such a law could not, 
 even then, be carried out. The prosperous 
 villeins, land- tenants, and copy-holders purchased 
 in the King's Court exemption from servitude, 
 leagued themselves together for mutual protection, 
 "and would not suffer distress to be taken either 
 
 by the servants of their lords, or the officers of 
 
 K
 
 130 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 justice." Parliament declared the exemptions 
 valueless, and threatened the confederates with 
 punishment. 
 
 The ruler made the laws ; the villein was the 
 source of his wealth. Among the peasantry 
 moved a priest, John Ball, who loved to take for 
 his text the couplet, 
 
 " When Adam delved and Eve span, 
 Pray who was the gentleman ?" 
 
 The villeins admired the text, and agreed with 
 the sermon, but the Archbishop of Canterbury 
 clapped the popular preacher into prison at 
 Maidstone. 
 
 The following examples of the preaching 
 popular with the peasantry are interesting and 
 instructive. 
 
 " John Balle Seynte Marye prist greteth wele 
 alle maner men, and byddes hem in the name of 
 the Trinite, Fadur and Sone and Holy Cost, 
 stond manlycke togedyr in trewthe, and helpeth 
 trewthe and trewthe schal helpe yowe. Now 
 regneth pride in pris, and covetise is holde wys ; 
 and lecherye with outen shame, and glotonye with 
 outen blame ; envye regneth with tresone, and 
 slouthe is take in grete sesone. God do bote, for 
 now is tyme, Amen."
 
 REVOLT OF THE VILLEINS, 131 
 
 " lakke Mylner asket help to turn his mylne 
 aright. He hath grounden smal smal ; the King's 
 sone of heven he seal pay for alle. Loke thy 
 Mylne go aryght with the four sayles and the 
 post stand in steadfastnesse. With ryght and 
 with myght, with skill and with wylle, let myght 
 help ryght, and skyl go before wylle and ryght 
 before myght, then goth our mylne aright. And 
 if myght go before ryght, and wylle before skylle, 
 then is our mylne mys a dyght." 
 
 In January, 1380, Parliament made a spirited 
 attempt to curb the extravagance of the Court. 
 Nevertheless, in the autumn of the same year 
 increased subsidies were demanded. In reply 
 they stigmatised the demand as u outrageous and 
 insupportable." The fatal capitation tax was then 
 resorted to. It demanded three groats per head 
 for every male and female who had come to the 
 age of fifteen years. Indulgence was extended to 
 the poor of some districts, the tax being graduated, 
 so that while the mass of the people paid one 
 groat each, the rich paid sixty groats per head. 
 
 Government required the money with the least 
 possible delay, and accordingly farmed the tax. 
 Probably the indignant peasantry would have 
 revolted against the imposition under any
 
 132 BV GONE KENT. 
 
 circumstances, but when hired collectors added 
 insolence and extortion to oppression, the rising 
 was sudden and furious. The first amount came 
 short of the calculation. Commissioners were 
 appointed to investigate the collection, and 
 demanded further payments. The people, sullen 
 and brooding, refused to pay. Commissioner 
 Thomas de Bampton tried conclusions with the 
 delinquents of Fobbings, Essex. He and his 
 officers they chased out of Brentwood. The 
 Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, Sir Robert 
 Bealknass, was deputed to deal with the rebels of 
 Kent. He was denounced as a traitor to King 
 and Kingdom, and also retired in haste before the 
 raging mob that spread through the country, 
 carrying as ensigns the heads of the jurors and 
 clerks of court, elevated on long poles. The 
 insurgent leader was a priest known only by his 
 nom de guerre of Jack Straw. 
 
 The Lord Treasurer's mansion was then visited 
 by the enraged peasantry, and was found to 
 contain an ample provision of meats and liquors ; 
 Sir John having, in his capacity of Prior of the 
 Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, summoned a 
 chapter-general of the order, and generously 
 provided for their entertainment. After con-
 
 REVOLT OF THE VILLEINS. 133 
 
 suming the provisions, the rebels demolished the 
 house. 
 
 The whole of Essex was in arms, a tumultuary 
 force, undisciplined, and rudely armed with clubs, 
 bows, pikes, and swords. While the people thus 
 trembled on the eve of aggression, the tragic 
 event whose incidents are so well known took 
 place at Dartford, in Kent, at the house of Walter 
 the Tyler. The fate of Tyler was decided. 
 Agents from Essex were calling the men of Kent 
 to arm in the common cause, for the reformation 
 of the government and the abolition of taxes ; and 
 Tyler's rash act had brought him a large following 
 of discontented spirits, for " the rude officers had 
 in many places made the like trial." The revolt 
 spread from the Thames to the H umber. 
 Leaders came to the front, nameless men, known 
 to the peasantry as Jakke Milner, Jak Carter, Jak 
 Treweman, and John Balle. 
 
 Tyler and his fellows requested the villeins of 
 the revolted counties to march upon London, and 
 fully 60,000 men converged upon the capital, 
 determined " that there should not be one 
 bondman in England." At Maidstone they 
 released John Ball from his bonds. Rochester 
 Castle they surprised, liberating a man claimed
 
 134 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 by Sir Simon Burley as his bondman, although 
 the poor fellow swore he had lived over a year and 
 a day at Gravesend. Sir Simon had been content 
 that the unfortunate man should languish in prison, 
 although he placed upon him a price of three 
 hundred pounds of silver. 
 
 When the insurgents poured into Canterbury, 
 John Ball is said to have called for the, death of 
 the archbishop, but that prelate had fled to 
 London ; they had, however, the satisfaction of 
 pulling down his house. They terrified the 
 monks and residents ; exacted from the mayor 
 and aldermen an oath of fidelity to the King and 
 commons, and advanced upon London, after 
 hewing off the heads of three wealthy citizens. 
 They carried with them the governor, Sir John 
 Newton. The King's mother had been making 
 a pilgrimage to Canterbury, and was surprised by 
 the peasantry. She and her ladies were allowed 
 to proceed on their journey, after being saluted 
 with kisses by a few of the rude fellows. 
 
 Concentrated at Blackheath, 100,000 strong, 
 they dispatched Sir John Newton to the King, 
 with complaints of the national mismanagement, 
 the assurance that they were acting for his 
 Majesty's honour, and a demand that the Arch-
 
 REVOLT OF THE VILLEINS. 135 
 
 bishop of Canterbury should render an account of 
 his administration of the revenue. Sir John's 
 children were retained as hostages for his fidelity, 
 and he was naturally anxious to conciliate the 
 King. Richard understood his subject's peculiar 
 position, and as a temporising policy was the 
 most likely to serve his interest, he accordingly 
 returned a gracious answer to the peasants, 
 promising to see them on the morrow. The 
 villeins received the royal message with great 
 satisfaction. 
 
 He appeared before them on the following day, 
 but on the river in his barge. He was welcomed 
 with a tremendous cheer from 10,000 men 
 massed on the banks at Rotherhithe, with two 
 banners of St. George and sixty pennons stream- 
 ing over their tumultuary array. The cry of 
 welcome carried terror into the hearts of King 
 and courtiers, and his barge was immediately 
 turned back, the Earl of Salisbury excusing the 
 King from landing by asserting that the peasants 
 were not formed in proper array to receive him. 
 
 Stung to sudden fury by their disappointment, 
 the army surged upon London, tearing down 
 abbeys and fair houses, if Froissart may be 
 credited. Prison doers were beaten in, and the
 
 136 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 liberated felons swelled the ranks of their 
 deliverers. They invaded the Archbishop's 
 palace at Lambeth, made a fire of his furniture, 
 and committed the chancery records to the 
 flames. 
 
 London Bridge barred their advance, but they 
 had sympathisers within the gates. The bridge 
 fell, and, once within the city, they were hospitably 
 entertained by the people. A few houses were 
 sacked, a number of Flemings slain, and the 
 Duke of Lancaster's palace, the Savoy, was 
 assaulted. Its. defenders were killed, and the 
 building burnt. They found the Duke's liquor so 
 much to their taste, that thirty of their men 
 perished in the flames, overcome by intoxication. 
 Even in rage and desperation, and despite their 
 ranks being swollen by idle and dissolute persons, 
 they maintained the integrity of their intentions, 
 and finding one of their number in the act of 
 appropriating a silver cup, they flung man and 
 cup into the river together. They destroyed the 
 house of the Hospitallers in Clerkenwell ; and 
 their common question to all comers was, " With 
 whom holdest thou ?" and woe to him who made 
 other reply than, " With King Richard and the 
 Commons," for on the instant his head -rolled in
 
 REVOLT OF THE VILLEINS. 137 
 
 the dust. Newgate, the Fleet, and the Temple 
 were destroyed. Their furious pursuit of Lom- 
 bards, Flemings, and other foreigners, led to 
 frequent violations of the privilege of sanctuary. 
 
 The army was formed into three divisions, one 
 occupied Heybury, and burnt the house of the 
 Knights of St. John in that locality ; the men of 
 Essex and Hertfordshire formed the second body, 
 and occupied Mile-End-Green ; the third division 
 took up their quarters at Tower Hill and St. 
 Catharine. Threatening messages were sent to 
 Richard, and the provisions intended for his use 
 were seized. 
 
 On the following morning, a royal herald pro- 
 claimed to the rebels before the Tower his 
 Majesty's decision to honour them with a confer- 
 ence at Mile-End. In due course he rode forth 
 with a few friends, but so threatening was the 
 appearance of the villeins, that Richard's uterine 
 brothers, the Earl of Kent and Sir John Holland, 
 spurred off in alarm, although the latter was a 
 man of ferocious courage. The Tower was 
 sufficiently guarded to have defied the utmost 
 rage of the insurgents, yet, aided by the fears or 
 treachery of the garrison, Wat Tyler and Jack 
 Straw contrived to gain possession of the fort-
 
 138 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 ress, and with it those doomed objects of their 
 resentment, Sir Robert Hales, the treasurer ; the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury, the chancellor ; 
 William Appledore, Richard's confessor ; and 
 four of the tax-farmers. Short and bloody work 
 was made with them, and the Archbishop's head, 
 with the hat nailed on, was carried on point of 
 lance to London Bridge, and there stuck up. 
 
 Again the King's mother fell into their hands, 
 and, after some rough salutes, was carried off in a 
 fainting condition by her attendants. 
 
 At Mile-End the more reasonable of the 
 villeins presented their demands : The abolition 
 of bondage ; the reduction of the rent of land to 
 fourpence the acre ; the free liberty of buying 
 and selling in all markets ; a general pardon for 
 past offences. Richard readily, and with courtly 
 grace, agreed to these not immoderate demands, 
 and promised to supply the peasants with royal 
 banners, under the protection of which they were 
 to march home ; with the exception of two or 
 three persons from each village, who were to wait 
 for the royal charters, in the copying of which 
 thirty clerks were occupied the whole of the 
 night. 
 
 The young King sought his mother at her
 
 REVOLT OF THE VILLEINS. 139 
 
 house, the Wardrobe, in Carter Lane ; and on the 
 following morning, after attending mass at West- 
 minster, rode through Smithfield, with sixty 
 horse in attendance, and held a conference with 
 Wat Tyler, who had 20,000 men at his back. 
 Wat is said to have repudiated the charter 
 granted on the previous day, to have demanded 
 the abolition of the game or forest laws, with the 
 privilege of taking fish in all waters, and the free- 
 dom of chase in park, forest, and field. Against 
 him was also levelled the accusation of plotting 
 the massacre of the royal retinue, and the seizure 
 of the King, in whose name he proposed to 
 govern the nation. 
 
 On Richard's arrival the rebel leader rode up 
 to him so close that the horses touched, and, 
 pointing to his followers, boasted of their fidelity, 
 declaring that they would not depart without the 
 King's letters. Richard's life was unquestionably 
 in the hands of the villeins, but he maintained 
 his temper, and exhibited unfaltering courage. 
 According to Froissart, Tyler exhibited unbounded 
 insolence, and demanded the life of one of the 
 royal squires ; whereon Sir William Walworth 
 drew near with twelve horse, and reproved his 
 insolence. To him the doomed man made stern
 
 HO BYGONE KENT. 
 
 reply, but was butchered the next moment by the 
 doughty Mayor, whether by thrust of sword or 
 blow of mace matters not. 
 
 Enraged by the death of their leader, but 
 obviously unprepared to slay the King, the 
 insurgents clamoured loudly, and stood to their 
 arms, when Richard rode up to them, exhorted 
 them to accept him as their leader, and concern 
 themselves no further about the traitor who had 
 fallen. Some believed the boy- King, and followed 
 him ; others, distrusting his Majesty's intentions, 
 withdrew from the press, and made for the 
 country. Arrived at Islington, the insurgents 
 found 1000 men-at-arms awaiting them, under the 
 command of Sir Robert Knowles. A scene of 
 confusion followed. Some turned to fly, others 
 fell on their knees, imploring the King's pardon, 
 and doubtless others stood to their arms to 
 strike a last blow for life or vengeance. Knowles 
 was impatient to charge, and a bloody tragedy 
 would probably have been enacted had not 
 Richard wisely resolved to let the peasants depart 
 in peace. He contented himself with proclaim- 
 ing death to any strangers remaining overnight in 
 the city. Once dispersed and powerless, the 
 peasantry could be punished at leisure.
 
 REVOLT OF THE VILLEINS. 141 
 
 The death of Tyler, and the dispersion of the 
 insurgents, came in good time, for numerous 
 hostile bands were making for the capital. The 
 men of Hertfordshire did not disperse on receiv- 
 ing news of the disastrous ending of the move- 
 ment, but extorted the written acknowledgement 
 of their freedom from their lords, and at St. 
 Alban's 'kindled a fire in the market-place, and 
 consumed therein the charters and privileges of 
 the Abbey, which they had compelled the Abbot 
 to deliver into their hands. The story of the 
 disturbances in the different eastern counties, 
 Suffolk, Cambridge, Norfolk, Huntingdon, need 
 not be related here. Spencer, the doughty 
 bishop of Norwich, played a great part in 
 suppressing these. 
 
 So determined were the men of Essex that 
 they sent deputies to Richard praying for a 
 confirmation of their charter, but their time of 
 triumph was past, and that of Richard had 
 dawned. His standard streamed on Blackheath, 
 surrounded by 40,000 men ; and on the 3Oth of 
 June, having commanded all vassals to return to 
 their duty, he despatched an expedition into Kent, 
 to complete the pacification of that county, while 
 he marched against the men of Essex, having
 
 142 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 first stuck a clump of ghastly heads, including 
 Wat Tyler's, over London Bridge. At Billericay 
 and Sudbury those obstinate sticklers for liberty 
 struck fiercely against his arms, and sealed their 
 devotion to the cause in which they were engaged 
 by streams of peasant-blood, before they submitted 
 to the King's grace. After this Richard was able 
 to complete his progress through the kingdom, 
 restoring tranquility, and gathering up the charters 
 wrung from him under the cruel compulsion of 
 peasant force. John Ball, Jack Straw, and 
 Westbroome were among the leaders who suffered 
 execution. Luttester and Westbroome are reputed 
 to have pretended to the title of Kings of Norfolk 
 and Suffolk ; but the peasants have no voice in 
 history, the story of their revolt is bequeathed to 
 us by the pens of their enemies, and doubtless 
 absurd rumours, and the ravings of intoxicated 
 slaves, have been recorded as the studied 
 statements of the leaders. 
 
 The Commons, in summing up the causes of the 
 revolt, were just to the unfortunate peasantry, and 
 imputed their action to the burthens cast upon 
 them by the lengthy wars, the rapacity of 
 tax-collecters, the extortion of the purveyors, and 
 the outrages committed by the numerous bands of
 
 REVOLT OF THE VILLEINS. 143 
 
 outlaws that infested the country, and preyed 
 upon the poor. They were so far in sympathy 
 with the people that they were with great difficulty 
 induced to grant further taxes ; but on wringing 
 the concession from them, Richard pardoned the 
 villeins, of whom, according to Holinshed, he 
 had put 1 500 to death during his progress through 
 the country. 
 
 The popular notion that Richard acted so very 
 wisely in his dealings with the peasantry, who 
 were certainly loyal to the boy-king, looking to 
 him as the redresser of their wrongs, is hardly 
 borne out by the tone of his address to them, 
 when he felt himself to be once more safe : 
 " Rustics ye have been and are," he is reported to 
 have said, " and in bondage shall ye remain ; not 
 such as ye have heretofore known, but in a 
 condition incomparably more vile."
 
 IRo^al jeitbam. 
 
 BY JOSEPH W. SPURGEON. 
 " Pity the fall of such a goodly pile." Shirley. 
 
 THE precise date of the first erection of a 
 palace at Eltham is involved in some 
 obscurity. The work is generally, and doubtless 
 correctly, attributed to Anthony Bek, Bishop of 
 Durham from 1283 to 1311. Most writers on 
 the subject agree, too, in suggesting the year 
 1270 as possibly the one which saw the completion 
 of the buildings, thus adopting the opinion 
 expressed by Lambarde, in his " Perambulation 
 of Kent," as follows : 
 
 " King Henrie the third (saith Mat. Parise) toward the latter 
 ende of his reigne, kept a Royall Christmas (as the manner 
 then was) at Eltham, being accompanied with his Queene and 
 Nobilitie : and this (belike) was the first warming of the house 
 (as I may call it) after that the Bishop had finished his worke." 
 
 It is more likely, however, that the Bishop had 
 not even begun his work, as I will endeavour to 
 show. First, it will be necessary to mention a 
 few facts in the career of this remarkable man. 
 He was born probably about the year 1240, his
 
 ROYAL ELTHAM. 145 
 
 father being Walter, Baron of Eresby. In 1270 
 he went with Prince Edward to the Crusades, 
 and, it may be presumed, was with him until his 
 return in 1274. Taking orders soon afterwards, 
 he was appointed in 1283 to the see of Durham ; 
 but his propensities fitted him better for the life of 
 a courtier and soldier than that of an ecclesiastic. 
 "He loved military parade, and had always 
 knights and soldiers about him." He was often 
 employed in important political negotiations, 
 especially in the matter of the Scottish succession 
 in 1290. In the campaign which followed (1296- 
 1304) he took a prominent part, receiving the 
 submission of Balliol, and holding high command, 
 riding at the head of the army by the king's side. 
 His extravagance was proverbial, and his ambition 
 unbounded. The Pope gave him the proud but 
 empty title of " Patriarch of Jerusalem ;" the king 
 gave him more substantial benefits, making him 
 Count Palatine of Durham, and King of the Isle 
 of Man. 
 
 Part of the manor of Eltham, which from time 
 immemorial had belonged to the Crown, was 
 conferred by Edward I. upon John, first Baron 
 de Vesci, of Alnwick, who, dying in 1288, left his 
 possessions to his brother, William de Vesci.
 
 146 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 The latter, before his death in 1297, made them 
 over to Anthony Bek, as trustee for his little 
 natural son, but the covetous bishop defrauded 
 the orphan of his inheritance, and by some legal 
 trick made himself master of the property, after 
 which, as I take it, he built Eltham Palace. 
 
 From the foregoing it will be seen that Eltham 
 could not have been granted to Bek by William 
 de Vesci until after his brother's death in 1288 ; 
 therefore the Christmas Feast of 1270 must have 
 been held, not in Bishop Bek's palace, but in 
 the manor-house which doubtless preceded it. 
 Further, it is unlikely that the Bishop was" able to 
 misappropriate the manor before the decease of 
 William de Vesci in 1297, or that he commenced 
 building before he was certain of possessing the 
 estate. This would bring the probable date of the 
 erection of the building to about 1300, and would 
 also dispose of the statement that he bequeathed it 
 to Queen Eleanor, for she died in 1290. However 
 this may be, it is known that the Bishop made the 
 palace his favourite residence, and breathed his 
 last there in 1311. 
 
 Three years before that date the palace was 
 honoured by what appears to be the first royal 
 visit. Edward II., on his arrival from France
 
 ROYAL ELTHAM. 147 
 
 with his bride, Isabella, brought her to Eltham, 
 where they remained for about fifteen days await- 
 ing their coronation. 
 
 It was not until after the decease of Anthony 
 Bek that Eltham became, properly speaking, a 
 royal residence ; indeed, it is evident that the 
 Bishop's legatee was Queen Isabella, not Queen 
 Eleanor. With the reign of Edward II. the 
 history of the palace begins, which, if completely 
 told, would fill a fair-sized book. I can therefore 
 only select the most important events, of which a 
 few of minor interest, though not unworthy of 
 mention, may first be briefly summarised. 
 
 Eltham was the scene of three royal births, the 
 first being that of Prince John, second son of 
 Edward II., in 1316, who was created Earl of 
 Cornwall, but was better known as "John of 
 Eltham," and whose tomb is in Westminster 
 Abbey. Two princesses also were born here, 
 namely, Philippa, daughter of Lionel, Duke of 
 Clarence, in 1355, afterwards Countess of March, 
 and Bridget, seventh daughter of Edward IV., in 
 1480, who became Prioress of Dartford. These 
 three infants, and also Katherine, Edward IV.'s 
 sixth daughter, were christened at Eltham. 
 Edward III., when a boy, was partly educated
 
 148 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 here, Griffin, the son of Sir Griffin of Wales, 
 being one of his companions. Three royal 
 brides were brought to the palace, whence, after a 
 short stay, each went forth to her coronation ; 
 they were (i) Isabella the Fair, wife of Edward 
 II., as already mentioned ; (2) Isabella of Valois, 
 Richard II.'s child-queen; and (3) Elizabeth 
 Woodville, married a year previously to Edward 
 IV. Edward III. held at least three Parlia- 
 ments at Eltham, on the last occasion, in 1376, 
 creating his grandson Prince of Wales. In 1386 
 Richard II. here received a deputation from both 
 Houses, opposing his intended invasion of France, 
 and in 1395 held an important council, of which 
 further mention will be made. The festival of 
 Christmas, with the splendour which in those 
 days characterised its observance by royalty, was 
 often celebrated here ; notably by the Duke of 
 Clarence in 1347, Richard II. in 1384, 1385, 
 and 1386, Henry IV. in 1400, 1405, 1409, 
 and 1412, Henry V. in 1414, Henry VI. in 
 1429, Edward IV. in 1482, and Henry VIII. in 
 
 1 5 1 5> ! 5 2 3. and T 525- 
 
 Passing now to those historical matters which 
 
 deserve to be treated of more fully, and taking 
 them in chronological order, we commence with
 
 ROYAL ELTHAM. 149 
 
 the year 1364, which was one of the proudest in 
 the history of Eltham. 
 
 King John of France, who was taken prisoner 
 by the Black Prince at the battle of Poitiers in 
 1356, had, after the signing of the treaty of 
 Bretigny, returned to France to arrange for 
 payment of his ransom, leaving as hostage his 
 son, the Duke of Anjou. The latter, however, 
 broke his parole, and left England ; but John sent 
 the young Lord Ingebrand de Coucy in his stead. 
 De Coucy's captivity brought him unexpected 
 good fortune, for he succeeded in gaining the 
 affections of Isabella, the Princess-royal. The 
 French king, finding his Government repudiated 
 the terms of the treaty, voluntarily returned to 
 England in 1364, saying that if honour were lost 
 elsewhere upon earth, it ought to be found in the 
 conduct of kings. Froissart thus tells the story of 
 his reception : 
 
 " News was brought to the king of England (who at that 
 time was with his queen at Eltham, a very magnificent palace 
 which the king had, seven miles from London) that the King of 
 France had landed at Dover. . . . The third day he [king 
 John] set out, taking the road to London, and rode on until he 
 came to Eltham, where the king of England was, with a 
 number of lords, ready to receive him. It was on a Sunday, 
 in the afternoon, that he arrived ; there were, therefore,
 
 150 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 between this time and supper, many grand dances and carols. 
 The young Lord de Coucy was there, who took pains to shine 
 in his dancing and singing whenever it was his turn. ... I 
 can never relate how very honourably and magnificently the 
 king and queen of England received King John. On leaving 
 Eltham, he went to London," 
 
 where, in the Savoy Palace, he died on April 8th 
 of the same year. Next year de Coucy was 
 married to the princess, but unfortunately they 
 did not live happily ever after, their romantic 
 attachment ending twelve years later in a 
 separation. 
 
 The last days of Edward III. were spent at 
 Eltham and Shene, where, broken down in health 
 and spirit, and worn out with his active life, he 
 was left almost alone, deserted by his friends. 
 He died at Shene in 1377. 
 
 Richard II. was at Eltham, keeping Christmas, 
 in 1386, when there came to him Leo, King of 
 Armenia, "under pretence," says Stow, "to 
 reform peace betwixt the kings of England and 
 France ; but what his coming profited he only 
 understood ; for besides innumerable gifts that he 
 received, . . . the king granted to him a 
 charter of a thousand pounds by year during his 
 life. He was, as he affirmed, chased out of his 
 kingdom by the Tartarians."
 
 ROYAL ELTHAM. 151 
 
 In 1395, Richard, having lost his " Good Queen 
 Anne," summoned his council to Eltham, partly 
 to broach to them his intention of marrying 
 Isabella of Valois, and partly to lay before them a 
 petition from Guienne, asking that that province, 
 which Richard had conferred upon the Duke of 
 Lancaster, might remain an appanage of the 
 English crown. While the council was deliberat- 
 ing, Jean Froissart, the famous chronicler and 
 poet, was at the palace, waiting for an opportunity 
 to present the king with a volume of his poems. 
 He relates at length the doings of this parliament, 
 as told him by Sir Richard Sturry. The Duke 
 of Gloucester opposed the petition, and 
 
 " To show that he governed the king and was the greatest in 
 the council, as soon as he had delivered his opinion and saw 
 that many were murmuring at it, and that the prelates and lords 
 were discussing it in small parties, he quitted the king's chamber, 
 followed by the earl of Derby, and entered the hall at Eltham, 
 where he ordered a table to be spread, and they both sat down 
 to dinner while others were debating the business. When the 
 duke of York heard they were at dinner, he joined them. . . . 
 On the Sunday, the whole council were gone to London, 
 excepting the duke of York, who remained with the king, and 
 sir Richard Sturry : these two, in conjunction with sir Thomas 
 Percy, mentioned me again to the king, who desired to see the 
 book I had brought for him. . . . The king asked me 
 what the book treated of: I replied 'Of love!' He was pleased 
 with the answer, and dipped into several places, reading parts
 
 152 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 aloud, for he read and spoke French perfectly well, and then 
 gave it to one of his knights, called sir Richard Credon, to 
 carry to his oratory, and made me many acknowledgments 
 for it." 
 
 While at Eltham in the following August 
 (1396), the king was informed of a plot against 
 him, headed by the Duke of Gloucester ; who 
 soon afterwards was seized and conveyed .to 
 Calais, there to meet his death. 
 
 The historic quarrel, in 1398, between the 
 Dukes of Norfolk and Hereford, when in the 
 king's presence each accused the other of treason, 
 occurred, according to Froissart, at Eltham 
 Palace. * The king decided that on September 
 1 6th, at Coventry, they should settle their differ- 
 ence by mortal combat ; but when the time 
 arrived, having changed his mind, he forbade the 
 duel to proceed, and sentenced both combatants 
 to banishment, Hereford for ten years, and Nor- 
 folk for life. Before one year had passed, 
 however, Hereford returned to claim his father's 
 estates, and gained possession, not only of his 
 
 * Froissart is often inaccurate as to details, and even in the account of 
 this transaction he makes three mistakes, calling Norfolk and Hereford 
 respectively by their earlier titles of Earl Marshal and Earl of Derby, and 
 placing the scene of the combat at Eltham instead of Coventry. We must 
 not, therefore, place too much reliance on his statement that the quarrel 
 took place at Eltham. See Shakespeare's Richard II.
 
 ROYAL ELTHAM. 153 
 
 inheritance, but of the throne of England. After 
 Richard's abdication and death, the Constable of 
 France, Count d'Albret, came to enquire after 
 the welfare of the young widowed queen 
 Isabella. He and his party were received by 
 Henry at Eltham, and splendidly entertained, 
 both before and after their visit to Isabella at 
 Havering-atte-Bower. 
 
 In 1402 an unusual ceremony, that of marriage 
 by proxy, was performed at Eltham Palace. The 
 cause of this strange proceeding was the exist- 
 ence of two rival popes, of whom the one at 
 Avignon was favoured by the bride, Joanna of 
 Navarre, while the bridegroom, Henry IV., 
 supported him who ruled at Rome. Joanna, 
 however, outwitted her particular pope by obtain- 
 ing from him permission to marry anyone she 
 pleased within the fourth degree of consanguinity, 
 without naming the person. She then sent 
 Antoine Riczi, one of her esquires, to England, 
 with authority to make a contract of matrimony 
 in her name with King Henry. He was received 
 on the 3rd of April at Eltham, and, the articles of 
 the transaction being signed, " Henry plighted 
 his nuptial troth to Antoine Riczi, and placed the 
 bridal ring on his finger .... on which the
 
 154 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 trusty squire, having received Henry's plight, 
 pronounced that of Joanna in these words : 
 
 ' I, Antoine Riczi, in the name of my worshipful lady, 
 Joanna, the daughter of Charles, lately king of Navarre, 
 duchess of Bretagne, and countess of Richmond, take you, 
 lienry of Lancaster, king of England and lord of Ireland, to 
 be my husband, and thereto I, Antoine, in the spirit of my 
 said lady, plight you my troth.'," 
 
 In 1412. the king kept his last Christmas at 
 Eltham, "being," as Holinshed puts it, "sore 
 vexed with sicknesse, so that it was thought 
 sometime that he had beene dead. Notwithstand- 
 ing it pleased God that he somewhat recovered 
 his strength againe, and so passed that Christmasse 
 with as much joy as he might." 
 
 Henry V., while keeping Christmas here in 
 1413-14, was alarmed by a rumour that the 
 Lollards were assembling in arms, intending to 
 seize his person. The report was probably false, 
 but it caused a sudden removal of the court to 
 Westminster, and led to the execution of some 
 forty Lollards. In 1415, on his return from the 
 great victory of Agincourt, the king stayed one 
 night at Eltham with his prisoners, the French 
 noblemen, among them the Dukes of Orleans 
 and Bourbon, who were subsequently again
 
 S.fc 
 
 9
 
 156 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 lodged there. It was here, in 1416, that Henry 
 received Sigismund, Emperor of Germany, who 
 was conducted to the palace in great state, and 
 magnificently entertained. The objects of his 
 visit were to establish peace between England 
 and France, and to enlist the aid of Henry in 
 putting an end to the ecclesiastical dissensions of 
 the time. 
 
 The boy-king Henry VI. stayed at Eltham 
 on his return from Paris, where he had been 
 crowned " King of France ;" and after his 
 marriage he restored and beautified it, with other 
 palaces, in honour of the queen. In 1460, after 
 his capture by the Yorkists at Northampton, 
 Henry was brought to Eltham, and allowed to 
 indulge in hunting and other sports, which, 
 though he was a prisoner, and his wife and child 
 fugitives, he seems to have greatly enjoyed. 
 
 By Edward IV. the palace was repaired and 
 enlarged, the principal work being the rebuilding 
 of the banqueting-hall, and the placing of a stone 
 bridge across the moat instead of the wooden 
 
 o 
 
 drawbridge. Both these remain to the present 
 day. The reasons usually given for crediting 
 Edward IV. with the erection of the Hall are 
 (i) the style of its architecture, which corresponds
 
 ROYAL ELTHAM. 157 
 
 with that of other buildings of his reign, and (2) 
 the special badge of this monarch, namely, the 
 rose en soleil, which is to be seen in one of 
 the spandrels of the principal doorway. More 
 conclusive evidence, however, is supplied by an 
 ancient document, still preserved, which contains 
 particulars of the 
 
 "Cost and Expenses don upon the hildyng of the newe 
 Halle wtyn the manor of Eltham, in the charge of James 
 Hatefeld, from Sonday the xixth day of Septembr the xixth yere 
 of the reigne of our Sovreyn lord Kyng Edward the iiijth unto 
 Sonday the iijd of October, the yere aforeseid.* [1479.] 
 
 In 1482, probably on the completion of the 
 work, the king held his Christmas festivities here 
 in splendid style, more than two thousand guests 
 being daily entertained. 
 
 The short reigns of Edward V. and Richard 
 III. afford no items of Eltham history, but 
 Lambarde, writing in 1570, says "it is not yet 
 fully out of memorie, that king Henry the seventh, 
 set up the faire front over the mote there "- 
 doubtless on the western side, where there are 
 still indications of a former range of buildings. 
 But Henry VII. was the last monarch who paid 
 more than occasional visits to the palace, "since 
 
 * Treasury of reel, of Exchq. , Paper clocum. Portfo. II, No. 1644.
 
 158 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 whose reigne," says the same writer, "this house, 
 by reason of the neerenesse to Greenewicke, 
 . . . hath not beene so greatly esteemed : the 
 rather also for that the pleasures of the emparked 
 groundes here, may be in manner as well enjoyed, 
 the Court lying at Greenwiche, as if it were at 
 this house it selfe." 
 
 Nevertheless, excepting Prince Arthur, all the 
 children of Henry VII. were educated at Eltham, 
 where, in January 1500, the great scholar 
 Erasmus was introduced to them by his friend 
 Mr. Thomas More, afterwards Lord Chancellor. 
 " When they came into the great Hall, they saw 
 the whole train of the young Princes. In the 
 middle stood Prince Henry, then nine years of 
 age ; foreshewing the signs and tokens of majesty, 
 a greatness of mind supported by a singular 
 humanity." After the visit, Erasmus composed a 
 long poem in praise of England and the royal 
 family, which he sent to Prince Henry, and so 
 commenced their frequent correspondence. 
 
 Henry VIII., though generally preferring 
 Greenwich, spent Christmas here on three 
 occasions, the first of which, in 1515-16, was 
 marked by unusual splendour. On the 
 Christmas Eve, after vespers, Cardinal Wolsey
 
 ROYAL ELTHAM. 159 
 
 took the oath and office of Lord Chancellor, in 
 place of Archbishop Warham, who had resigned. 
 When Twelfth-night came, a grand entertainment 
 was given in the great hall. Among the state 
 papers at the Record Office is one giving an 
 account of this masque, which, if only for its 
 quaint spelling, is worth quoting. A castle of 
 timber having been prepared, and, as Holinshed 
 has it, " wonderouslie set out," Master William 
 Cornish and the children of the chapel performed 
 
 "the story of Troylous and Pandor rychly inparylled, allso 
 Kallkas and Kryssyd inparylled lyke a wedow of onour, in 
 blake sarsenet and other abelements for seche mater ; Dyomed 
 and the Greks inparylled lyke men of warre, akordyng to the 
 intent or porpoos.* After weche komedy playd and doon, an 
 harroud [i.e. herald] tryd and mad an oy that 3 strange knyghts 
 wer cum to do batall with [those] of the sayd kastell ; owt 
 weche yssud 3 men of arms with punchyng spers, redy to do 
 feets at the barryers, inparylled in whyghthe saten and greeyn 
 saten of Bregys, f lynd with gren sarsenet and whyght sarsenet, 
 and the saten cut ther on. To the sayd 3 men of arms 
 entered other 3 men of arms with lyke wepuns, and 
 inparylled in sclops of reed sarsenet and yelow sarsenet, and 
 with speers mad sartayn strooks ; and after that doon, with 
 nakyd swerds fawght a fayer batayll of 12 strooks, and so 
 departyd of foors. Then out of the kastell ysseud a quyen, 
 and with her 6 ladyes, with spechys after the devyes of Mr. 
 
 * The story was evidently Chaucer's Troilus and Cressida, largely a 
 translation of Boccaccio's Filostrato. 
 t Bruges?
 
 160 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 Kornyche : and after thys doon, 7 mynstrells inparylled in long 
 garments and bonets to the saam of saten of Bregys, whyght 
 and greeyn, un the walls and towrys of the sayd kastell played a 
 melodyus song. Then cam out of the kastell 6 lords and 
 gentyllmen inparelled in garments of whyght saten of Bregys 
 and greyn, browdyrd with counterfyt stuf of Flandyrs making, 
 as brochys, ouchys, spangs and seche ; and allso 6 ladyes 
 inparelld in 6 garments of ryght saten, whyght and greeyn, set 
 with H and K* of yelow saten, poynted together with poynts 
 of Kolen golld. Thes 6 garments for ladyes wer of the Kyng's 
 stoor, newly repayryd. Allso the sayd ladyes heeds inparylled 
 with loos golld of damask, as well as with wovyn flat golld of 
 damaske," [etc. then follows an account of the expenditure.] 
 
 On the conclusion of these performances, "the 
 banket," says Holinshed, "was served in of two 
 hundred dishes, with great plentie to everie 
 bodie." 
 
 On the Eve of Epiphany, 1524, at the end of 
 the Christmas holidays, the king and queen 
 received Longland, Bishop of Lincoln, who had 
 come to explain to the queen the plans of Christ 
 Church College, Wolsey's new foundation at 
 Oxford. The festival in 1525, because of an 
 epidemic in the city, was held at Eltham with 
 only a few guests, and was named the " Still 
 Christmas." It was on this occasion that Wolsey 
 presented the king with the lease of Hampton 
 
 * The initials of the king and queen, a pet idea of Henry's ; though the 
 second letter had rather frequently to be altered !
 
 ROYAL ELTHAM. 161 
 
 Court Palace. At the same time he drew up a 
 most minute and elaborate set of "Articles 
 devised by the King's highness, with the advice 
 of his council, for the establishment of good order 
 and reformation of sundry errors and misuses in 
 his most honourable household and chamber." 
 These rules, which are too long to quote, are 
 preserved among the state papers, and are known 
 as the Statutes of Eltham. They are said to 
 contain precedents for many of the Court customs 
 of the present day. 
 
 After this date the royal visits to Eltham were 
 but few. On July 21, 1555, Queen Mary 
 removed from St. James's Palace, taking a barge 
 to Lambeth, whence she drove to Eltham Palace, 
 escorted by Cardinal Pole, Lords Pembroke and 
 Montague, and others. Over 10,000 persons 
 assembled to see her, this being, as is supposed, 
 her first appearance since her mysterious illness. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth, who when an infant had often 
 been taken to Eltham, paid at least one important 
 visit to the palace, on August 6th, 1559, 
 nine months after her accession, when she met 
 there the Earl of Arran, son of the former Regent 
 of Scotland. The young Earl, who was handsome 
 
 but weak-minded, had been at one time regarded 
 
 M
 
 1 62 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 as the future husband of Mary Queen of Scots, 
 and was subsequently proposed as a suitable con- 
 sort for Elizabeth. Evidently the object of this 
 interview was to ascertain his prospects in that 
 direction. Elizabeth, as she was wont to do with 
 her admirers, appeared to encourage him, all the 
 while scheming how to utilise his devotion for her 
 political ends. Three years later his weak mind 
 gave way altogether, and he never recovered his 
 reason ; perhaps disappointment had something to 
 do with it. 
 
 In this reign the palace was usually occupied 
 by Sir Christopher Hatton ; after which time, with 
 the exception of one visit of James I. in May and 
 June, 1612, and one of Charles I. in November, 
 1629, it was abandoned by royalty. On the 
 passing of the Self-denying Ordinance, in 1645, 
 the Earl of Essex resigned his commission, and 
 retired to Eltham House (as the palace was now 
 called), where he died on September i3th, 1646. 
 
 In 1650 the property was sold by Parliament 
 to Major-General Rich. According to the survey 
 taken in 1649, the buildings consisted of: 
 
 " One fair chapel, one great hall, thirty-six rooms and offices 
 below stairs, with two large cellars ; and above stairs, in 
 lodgings called the King's side, 17, the Queen's side, 12, and
 
 ROYAL ELTHAM. 163 
 
 the Prince's side, 9 ; in all 38 lodging-rooms, with other 
 necessary small rooms . . . thirty-five bays of build- 
 ings, containing [in two stories about 78 rooms, etc.] with one 
 inward court containing ^ an acre, and one garden called the 
 Arbor, lying South of the Mansion ; also one orchard." 
 
 All this was sold for .2,753, the estimated 
 value of the materials. On April 22, 1656, 
 Evelyn " went to see his Majesty's house at 
 Eltham, both Palace and chapell in miserable 
 ruines, the noble woods and park destroy'd by 
 Rich the Rebell." 
 
 The restoration of Charles II. did not bring 
 about the restoration of the palace. Sir John 
 Shaw, to whom the estate was granted by the 
 king, proceeded straightway to demolish the 
 buildings, which were really in such bad repair as 
 to be uninhabitable. Happily they were not all 
 destroyed ; the great hall, which somebody 
 happened to remark would make a good barn, 
 was spared for that purpose ! 
 
 Such was the base use to which the noble 
 building was put for many years. At last, in 
 1828, after nearly two centuries of neglect, the 
 roof showed signs of giving way, and the hall 
 was only saved from demolition by order of the 
 Government, who expended ^700 on its repair. 
 Smirke, the celebrated architect, superintended
 
 1 64 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 the operations. In 1859 a dwelling-house was 
 erected against the eastern end. The hall 
 itself, which had until then continued to be used 
 as a barn, was cleared out, and since then it has 
 been carefully preserved. 
 
 The moat, which varies in breadth from fifty to 
 one hundred feet, is still spanned on the north by 
 the three-arched bridge built by Edward IV., 
 but, excepting the portion below the bridge, it is 
 now quite dry. Before crossing it, there is seen 
 on the right hand a picturesque wooden house, 
 which, if it be not the actual building, occupies the 
 site of "my Lord Chancellor's lodging," as shown 
 in a plan of 1509. Portions of the wall within 
 the moat are yet visible, and in the enclosure, 
 incorporated with the modern residence, are some 
 remains of the ancient kitchen and buttery. 
 There are also a number of subterranean 
 passages, now used as drains. 
 
 The hall, however, claims our chief attention. 
 It is built principally of bricks, faced with stone. 
 Its outward appearance is not remarkable ; 
 indeed, if it were not for the windows, it would 
 almost justify the misnomer of " King John's 
 Barn," which the people of Eltham for many 
 years applied to it. The architectural effect was
 
 ROYAL ELTHAM. 165 
 
 intentionally restricted to the interior. On 
 entering, one is struck with its fine proportions, 
 the measurements being one hundred feet in length, 
 thirty-six in width, and fifty-five in height. The 
 body of the hall is lighted by ten windows on 
 each side, each window divided by a mullion 
 without a transom, and the sections cinquefoil- 
 headed with a quatrefoil between. These windows 
 only extend half-way down the walls, the space 
 below being left for tapestry. At the western 
 end, projecting north and south, are two large 
 bays, with windows reaching from top to bottom, 
 and finely vaulted roofs. Across the hall between 
 these bays was the dais, and at the opposite end 
 a carved screen reached from side to side, with an 
 inner entrance in its centre, forming a lobby into 
 which the outer doors opened. Above this was 
 the minstrels' gallery. But the finest feature of 
 the hall is its hammer-beam roof, constructed of 
 oak, with braces resting on stone corbels, carved 
 pendants, spandrels pierced with trefoils, and 
 pierced panelling above the collar-beams. 
 
 Standing within the Hall nowadays it is difficult 
 to realise its former magnificence. The dais is 
 levelled with the ground ; the music-gallery has 
 gone, and the present screen is but a patchwork ;
 
 1 66 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 no rich hangings decorate the bare, rough walls ; 
 the windows, all unglazed, are sadly mutilated ; 
 and the roof, the best-preserved portion, is almost 
 hidden by the huge unsightly framework raised to 
 support it. Yet, while we deplore the damage 
 done to the building in the days of its degradation, 
 we must not forget that, but for its adaptability to 
 the purposes of a barn, it would have been totally 
 destroyed more than two hundred years ago.
 
 (Sreenwicb Jfair. 
 
 BY THOMAS FROST. 
 
 THE pleasure fairs of our towns and 
 villages are diminishing year by year, both 
 in number and attractiveness, under the combined 
 influences of legal enactments against them and 
 the facilities now enjoyed for a higher class of 
 entertainments than those which they provided. 
 At the rate at which they have of late years been 
 disappearing, the next generation will know them 
 only by the pictures of Hogarth, Rowlandson, 
 and Setchel, and the contemporary descriptions of 
 Hone and others. 
 
 The fairs of Kent which had survived the 
 changes of the last fifty or sixty years have been 
 swept away by magisterial edicts under the 
 powers conferred by the Fairs Act. It may be 
 well, therefore, to present a picture of one of the 
 most famous of them, while there are yet living 
 some few persons who can recall its chief features. 
 Let it be Greenwich. 
 
 There were really two pleasure fairs held at
 
 1 68 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 Greenwich, at Easter and Whitsuntide respec- 
 tively, but for the purpose of this paper they may 
 be dealt with as one. The earlier fair was the 
 opening event of the year with the showmen, the 
 stall-keepers, and the proprietors of the drinking 
 and dancing booths. The portable theatre then 
 owned by Richardson, a notable character in 
 his way, always occupied a prominent position at 
 both fairs, and many actors who afterwards 
 became favourably known to the frequenters of 
 the London theatres acquired their early 
 experience on its boards. It is known that 
 Edmund Kean, James Wallack, Oxberry, and 
 Saville Faucit, were of the number, but it cannot 
 be said positively that those stars of the theatrical 
 world ever appeared under a canvas canopy at 
 Greenwich. There, however, were certainly 
 seen, in the palmy days of the fair, James Barnes, 
 afterwards famous as the pantaloon of the Covent 
 Garden pantomimes ; John Cartlitch, the original 
 representative of Mazeppa ; Nelson Lee, well 
 known to a later generation as the enterprising 
 manager of a metropolitan theatre, as well as 
 Richardson's successor ; John Douglass, after- 
 wards lessee of the Standard, the largest 
 theatre in London ; Paul Herring, the
 
 GREENWICH FAIR. 169 
 
 famous pantomimist ; Crowther, who was subse- 
 quently engaged at Astley's ; Charles Freer and 
 Mrs. Campbell, favourites later on at the 
 Pavilion ; and Mrs. Yates, who was afterwards 
 engaged at the Standard. 
 
 Some really good things were occasionally to be 
 seen on the boards of Richardson's theatre. For 
 instance, in the first year of Lee's management, 
 the ballet in " Esmeralda," which was then 
 attracting large audiences to the Adelphi, was 
 produced at the Whitsuntide fair at Greenwich, 
 where the theatre stood at the extreme end of 
 the ground, near the bridge at Deptford Creek. 
 It proved a great success, and Oscar Byrne, who 
 had arranged the ballet for the Adelphi, visited 
 the theatre, and complimented Lee on the 
 manner in which it was produced. The ballet 
 was probably much better worth seeing than the 
 sensational dramas, cut down to an extent that 
 enabled them to be played in twenty minutes, 
 upon which the popularity of Richardson's chiefly 
 depended. 
 
 Actors who have long since departed from the 
 stage of this world used to tell some singular 
 stories in connection with this well-known show. 
 Among these may be quoted the deception
 
 170 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 practised on Nelson Lee by an eccentric panto- 
 mimist named Shaw, who, in addition to oddities 
 of mind and manner, possessed but one eye. 
 Towards the close of the season of 1841, this young 
 man's freaks became so remarkable as to raise a 
 doubt as to whether he was perfectly sane, and, in 
 the interests of the theatre, he received his dismissal. 
 When the company was being formed for the 
 following season, an application for the vacancy 
 was received by letter from one Charles Wilson, 
 who stated that he had been engaged as 
 Harlequin at the Theatre Royal, Birmingham. 
 Lee engaged him, but did not see him until he 
 presented himself at the theatre on Easter 
 Sunday, at Greenwich. There was then observed 
 a remarkable resemblance between the new 
 Harlequin and his predecessor, extending to 
 every feature except the eyes, and even they 
 were the same colour as Shaw's. It was soon 
 discovered, however, that the eye, which had 
 made a puzzle of the identity, was a glass one ; 
 and " Wilson," charged with being Shaw, 
 acknowledged the deception. Lee overlooked it, 
 and experience seems to have made the panto- 
 mimist a wiser man in the future. 
 
 Menageries and circuses enjoyed a large share
 
 GREEN WICH FAIR. \ 7 1 
 
 of the patronage of the visitors to the fair, and in 
 connection with one of the former Wombwell's 
 the original Wombwell's, for George Wombwell 
 was then living a terrible catastrophe occurred 
 there rather more than fifty years ago. The 
 attractiveness of performances with lions and 
 tigers by women had brought so much money into 
 the coffers of Hilton and Edmunds, that Helen 
 Blight, the daughter of a musician in Wombwell's 
 band, was induced to undertake the role of 
 "lion queen," in rivalry with Miss Hilton and 
 Miss Chapman (now Mrs. George Sanger). 
 Unfortunately, she had not sufficient command of 
 her temper for the successful exercise of so 
 dangerous a vocation. While performing with 
 the animals at Greenwich Fair, she applied a 
 riding-whip she was carrying to a tiger which 
 exhibited some refractoriness. The enraged 
 beast immediately sprang upon her, seized her by 
 the throat, and dragged her to the floor of the cage. 
 The keepers endeavoured to beat off the tiger, 
 but the unfortunate young woman was dead before 
 she could be rescued. 
 
 Hilton's menagerie passed into the possession 
 of Manders in 1852, and when the show came to 
 Greenwich that year, it was without a lion-
 
 172 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 performer, Tom Newsome brother of the late 
 circus proprietor of that name having just before 
 terminated his engagement in that capacity some- 
 what abruptly. On one of the fair days an 
 athletic negro, in the garb of a sailor, accosted 
 one of the musicians, and asked whether employ- 
 ment could be found for him in the show. 
 Manders was communicated with, and the negro 
 was invited to enter the show, and see the 
 " governor." His appearance led Manders to 
 offer him the vacant position of "lion-king," 
 which he accepted with so much seeming 
 confidence in his power to control the animals, 
 that he was, at his own request, allowed to enter 
 the lion's cage, in which situation he displayed so 
 much coolness and address that he was engaged 
 there and then. This black sailor was the famous 
 Macomo, who travelled with the menagerie for 
 several years, realising to the uttermost the 
 expectations raised by his first performance with 
 the beasts. 
 
 After the shows of one kind and another, the 
 most prominent features of the fair were the 
 large booths devoted to refection and dancing. 
 There were sometimes a score of these in the fair, 
 the principal being the Crown and Anchor and
 
 GREENWICH FAIR. 1 7 3 
 
 the Albion, the only two at which a charge was 
 made for admission to the "assembly room," 
 the tickets being a shilling at the former, and 
 sixpence at the latter. The Crown and Anchor 
 was three hundred and twenty-three feet long by 
 sixty feet wide, seventy feet of the length 
 constituting the refreshment department, and the 
 rest of the space, rearward, being devoted to 
 dancing. The culinary operations were conducted 
 in open air, behind the booths, where glowing 
 charcoal fires burned in grates of immense width. 
 At night both the refreshment bar and the 
 dancing room were lighted with coloured lamps, 
 arranged in a variety of devices, as crowns, stars, 
 anchors, wreaths, etc., and in the latter com- 
 partment, separated by a partition, a good band 
 played, generally consisting of two harps, three 
 violins, a bass viol, two clarionets, and a flute. 
 In the palmy days of the fair the sons and 
 daughters of the shopkeepers of the district 
 resorted to the Crown and Anchor in the evening, 
 and joined in the quadrilles and country dances 
 without the slightest fear as to what Mrs. Grundy 
 might say. The company became less select, 
 however, in the latter years of the fair. 
 
 The fair did not, even in its best days, always
 
 174 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 pass without some disturbance. Half a century 
 ago, when the respectable portion of society was 
 so frequently scandalized by the wild freaks of 
 certain scions of aristocratic families, a party of 
 these young men visited Richardson's theatre, and 
 annoyed both actors and audience by throwing 
 nuts at the former, and talking and laughing 
 loudly throughout the performance. A dozen 
 years later the show was wrecked by a party of 
 soldiers from Woolwich, the riot originating in a 
 practical joke played by one of the party upon a 
 man in the crowd. This being resented, the 
 soldier assaulted him, and on his retreating up the 
 steps he was followed by his assailant. Nelson 
 Lee interposed, and was himself assaulted, upon 
 which some of the company bundled the aggressor 
 down the steps. He returned, supported by a 
 number of his comrades, and a fight ensued on the 
 exterior stage. The defenders were over-matched, 
 however, and retreated into the auditorium or 
 jumped off the platform and fled. The soldiers 
 then began destroying the front of the theatre 
 and smashing the lamps. Fortunately these were 
 not lighted, or a terrible conflagration might have 
 been the result. Lee exerted himself bravely to 
 prevent the destruction of his property until a
 
 GREEN WICH FAIR. 1 7 5 
 
 rope was fastened round him, with which the 
 rioters were about to hoist him to the top of the 
 front, when a dozen constables arrived and 
 rescued him from his dastardly assailants. The 
 latter fled, but several of them were captured, 
 and probably would have been dealt with as 
 severely as they deserved to be if Lee had not 
 withdrawn from the prosecution in the expectation 
 that compensation would be made by the officers 
 of the regiment, as the recorder had suggested, 
 but he never received a penny. 
 
 Richardson's or rather Johnson and Lee's 
 theatre appeared at this fair for the last time in 
 1852. Wombwell had died two years before, 
 his fine collection being then divided, in 
 conformity with his will, into three equal parts, 
 which he bequeathed to his widow and two 
 nieces, Mrs. Edmunds and Mrs. Day. The fair 
 had been declining for several years, though its 
 decadence was not perceptible to ordinary 
 observers, who saw no diminution of the crowds 
 before the principal shows and thronging the 
 avenues, and as many shows as had been seen in 
 earlier years. But the showmen and the keepers 
 of booths and stalls did not find their receipts at 
 all proportionate to the number of visitors. The
 
 1 76 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 growth of population swelled the crowds, but the 
 middle classes no longer patronised the shows, 
 and it had become infra dig. to be seen in the 
 dancing booths. The railway and the steamboats 
 brought a larger number of visitors, but they were 
 chiefly of the class for whom the showmen found 
 reduced charges to be a necessity, without a 
 commensurate increase in the number of patrons. 
 The decadence of the fair proceeded more 
 rapidly during the last few years of its existence. 
 By the absence of Richardson's show it was shorn 
 of half its glory, and its abolition in 1857 left little 
 cause for regret. The proprietors of portable 
 theatres found it more to their advantage to 
 locate them for two or three months in a town 
 which was as yet without a permanent temple of 
 Thespis, than to set them up for three days in the 
 suburbs of London. The tenting circuses 
 followed their example, and the opening of the 
 Zoological Gardens to the public did much to 
 cause the travelling menageries to be comparatively 
 neglected. Greenwich Fair had, in short, 
 outlived the age for which it had provided a 
 welcome means of relaxation and amusement, and 
 its end did not come at all too soon.
 
 CarMnal. 
 
 BY FREDERICK Ross, F.R.H.S. 
 
 IT was in an eventful period when John Fisher 
 was born at Beverley, Yorkshire. The first 
 part of the Wars of the Roses had just terminated; 
 the battle of Wakefield had been fought, and 
 Queen Margaret had spiked the head of Richard, 
 Duke of York, over the gate of York; and Towton 
 fight, with its ocean of blood, had reversed the 
 former, and placed the young Duke of York, 
 Edward, on the throne of the Plantagenets ; the 
 land had been reft of many a noble name ; titles 
 had become extinct by the sword, the axe, and 
 attainder ; and in every great family of the realm 
 there was mourning and desolation. 
 
 The father of John Fisher was named Robert 
 Fisher, and was a wealthy mercer in Beverley, a 
 zealous upholder of the established faith, and a 
 determined opponent of the Wiclifian heresy, 
 who left by will 2od. to the Collegiate Church of 
 St. John, 2od. to each of the almshouses in the 
 town, 35. 4d. to each of the friaries, 133. 4d. to 
 
 N
 
 1 7 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 the chaplain of St. Trinity to pray for his soul, 
 6s. 8d. to Robert Kuke, Vicar of St. Mary's, and 
 other legacies. Agnes, his mother, was a most 
 devout woman, and it was at her knees that he 
 imbibed his religious sentiments and depth of 
 devotional feeling. Robert Fisher died in 1477, 
 leaving his widow with John and three younger 
 sons to educate and bring up ; she afterwards 
 married a man of the name of Wright, to whom 
 she bore issue three sons and a daughter, named 
 Elizabeth, who afterwards became a nun at Dart- 
 ford, in Kent, for whose edification her half- 
 brother wrote two treatises on religion when in 
 the Tower. In 1483, John was sent to Cam- 
 bridge, where he graduated B.A. 1487, and M.A. 
 1491 ; was chosen Fellow of his college and 
 Proctor in 1494 ; made D.D. and Vice-Chancellor 
 
 1501 ; Lady Margaret Professor of Divinity 
 
 1502 ; Chancellor of the University 1504; Head 
 of Queen's College 1505 ; and Master of Christ 
 Church College 1506. 
 
 Whilst the young student was passing through 
 the successive steps of his collegiate career, other 
 important events of historic interest were taking 
 place. King Edward the Fourth had passed 
 away, leaving his crown to his youthful son,
 
 THE MARTYRED CARDINAL. 179 
 
 Edward the Fifth, who, with his brother, the 
 Duke of York, was murdered by their uncle, the 
 Duke of Gloucester. Then followed the short 
 nightmare reign of Richard the Third, which 
 terminated at his death on Bosworth Field, when 
 his corpse was thrown across a horse and carried 
 away for burial, whilst his crown, which was 
 found in a bush, was placed on the head of 
 Henry, Duke of Richmond, the first of the 
 Tudors. The new King established his court at 
 Greenwich, placing at the head of his household 
 his mother, Margaret, daughter and heiress of 
 John, Duke of Somerset, great-grand-daughter 
 of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, and relict 
 of Edmund Tudor, who had been created Duke 
 of Richmond by his half-brother, King Henry VI. 
 He was thus the representative of the Red Rose, 
 and, from motives of policy, soon after his 
 accession he married Elizabeth, daughter of 
 Edward IV., representative of the White Rose, 
 and so, in the person of their son, Henry VIII., 
 united the Roses, and put a final end to the 
 disastrous contentions amongst the descendants 
 of Edward III., which had been caused by the 
 usurpation of Henry IV. 
 
 Margaret, now Countess Dowager of Richmond,
 
 i8o BYGONE KENT. 
 
 was a most amiable, pious, and devout lady, 
 spending her days and nights in prayer, and 
 hearing mass, in fasting, maceration of her flesh, 
 and in charitable deeds, spending her wealth in 
 works of philanthropy, and promoting the spread 
 of education. She spent her life, according to 
 the light of her age, in self-abnegation and the 
 performance of her duty to God ; and if ever 
 woman deserved canonisation, that woman was 
 Margaret Beaufort, Countess of Richmond. It 
 chanced that when Fisher was Proctor, he was 
 sent on business of the University to the Court of 
 Greenwich, where he obtained an introduction to 
 Countess Margaret, who was struck by his 
 edifying conversation, his unassuming manners, 
 and his piety, and in consequence constituted 
 him her confessor and spiritual adviser, and 
 subsequently her chief, indeed sole, director in 
 matters secular as well as spiritual. Under his 
 advice, she founded at Cambridge, in 1503, a 
 Divinity Lecture, and the following year a 
 preachership for six sermons to be preached 
 yearly in London, Lincoln, and Ely. Many 
 other objects of charitable, educational, and 
 religious character were also carried out by her, 
 at his suggestion, by far the most important being
 
 THE MARTYRED CARDINAL. 181 
 
 the foundation of Christ's College, Cambridge, in 
 1506, and of St. John's College, the latter having 
 been erected under the direction of Fisher, after 
 her death, and opened in 1516. She died in 
 1509, and Fisher preached her funeral sermon, 
 with a panegyric on her character. 
 
 In 1503 the see of Rochester fell vacant, and 
 King Henry thought of Fisher for the office, but 
 did not think proper to appoint him without his 
 mother's consent. He therefore wrote to her : 
 " I am well myndit to promote Master Fisher, 
 youre Confessoor, to a bishopric, and I assure 
 you, madam, for non other cause, but for the grete 
 and singular vertue that I know and se in hym, 
 as well as in conyn and wisdome, and specially 
 for his good and vertuose ly ving and conversation. 
 And bye the promotion of suche a man, I know 
 well it should corage many others to lyve 
 vertuously, and to take soche wages as he dothe, 
 which shoulde be a good exampl to many others," 
 etc. Of course Lady Margaret assented, and he 
 was advanced to the episcopal bench, the 
 appointment being ratified by the Pope, July 2nd, 
 1504. He was highly esteemed by the King, 
 who appointed him tutor to his sons, Arthur and 
 Henry ; and when the latter came to the throne
 
 1 82 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 as Henry VIII., Fisher became his friend and 
 counsellor in all matters relating to religion and 
 the Church. 
 
 When Henry was young, he was a good 
 Catholic and hater of heresy, whether Wiclifite 
 or Lutheran, looking up to the Pope as his 
 spiritual superior and the Vicegerent of Christen- 
 dom ; and so he remained until he became 
 enamoured of the fair Anne Boleyn, when, as is 
 well known, because the Church threw obstacles 
 in his way of getting rid of his wife Katherine, a 
 pious daughter of the Church, his affections 
 became alienated from the Pope, and, by gradual 
 steps, he threw off the Papal yoke, plundered the 
 Church of its wealth, and assumed for himself the 
 headship of the Church of England. It was in 
 the interval that, in his ardent zeal for theological 
 distinction, he produced a book, which he pro- 
 fessed to have written, against Luther, entitled 
 " Assertio Septem Sacramentorum Adversus 
 Martyn Luther." The manuscript was sent to 
 Rome, and circulated among the cardinals and 
 bishops, causing considerable sensation by its 
 learning and ability, and was deposited in the 
 Library of the Vatican as one of its chief 
 treasures. The Pope granted plenary indulgence
 
 THE MARTYRED CARDINAL. 
 
 183 
 
 to all who should read it, and a College of 
 Cardinals was called to consider what title should 
 be accorded to the Royal writer for so signal a 
 service to the Church. The Apostolic ; the 
 Orthodox ; the Faithful ; the Angelic ; and others 
 
 JOHN FISHER. 
 
 (From the portrait by Holbein.) 
 
 were suggested, and finally that of " Defender of 
 the Faith " was adopted. It is tolerably certain 
 that Henry was not the author of the book ; he 
 may have suggested it and laid down the outlines 
 of the arguments, but he had neither intellectual 
 capacity nor sufficient learning to have written it ;
 
 1 84 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 and it has been conjectured, from internal 
 evidence and other circumstances, that the real 
 author was Fisher, and this most probably is the 
 truth, as he was one of the few who were capable 
 of writing it, and it would be naturally to him 
 his quondam tutor and spiritual adviser that the 
 King would turn for assistance in the production 
 of the book. 
 
 In his writings and sermons, Fisher ever up- 
 held, as an indubitable truth, the supremacy of the 
 Pope above all earthly potentates, and declaimed 
 vehemently" against the Lutheran and all other 
 heresies as the spawn of hell ; and it was his bold 
 and conscientious adherence to these principles 
 that alienated him from his master, and caused 
 his overthrow and death. The first breach 
 occurred on the divorce question, he telling the 
 King, when asked his opinion on the marriage, that 
 " there could be no doubt of its validity, since it 
 was good and lawful from the beginning, and 
 could not be dissolved without sin," and he 
 appeared before the Legates Campeggio and 
 Wolsey, to plead for the Queen, which he did 
 with great boldness and eloquence. 
 
 He still further displeased the King in 1529, by 
 vigorously denouncing in Parliament the Act for
 
 THE MARTYRED CARDINAL. 185 
 
 the dissolution of the lesser monasteries as an act 
 of sacrilege, and consummated his offence by 
 protesting, in outspoken plainness, in Convoca- 
 tion, against the assumption of the Headship of 
 the Church by the King. He now began to be 
 looked upon as a troublesome character, whom it 
 would be well to be rid of; and in 1530, one 
 Rouse gained admittance to his kitchen, and put 
 poison in the food then being prepared. For- 
 tunately, the Bishop was ill, and unable to eat, 
 but of seventeen persons who partook of the 
 food two died, and the rest never wholly recovered 
 their health. The crime was brought home to 
 Rouse, and he was boiled to death in Smithfield. 
 
 The sought-for opportunity of criminating 
 Fisher was not long in forthcoming. He listened 
 to the utterances and gave some credence to the 
 visions of "The Holy Maid of Kent," and was 
 indicted for misprision of treason, tried, and 
 condemned to imprisonment during the King's 
 pleasure, but obtained his release on payment of 
 a fine of ^300. 
 
 In 1534, the Act of Succession was passed, 
 enjoining an oath of submission to the King and 
 his heirs begotten of " his most dear and entirely 
 beloved Queen Anne," and making it high
 
 1 86 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 treason to speak against his marriage with her. 
 Fisher was called upon to take this oath, and on 
 refusal to do so without some modification of it, 
 was cast into the Tower, but was liberated on 
 promising allegiance to the King and his heirs 
 by his new marriage, declaring, however, 
 that "his conscience could not be convinced that 
 the marriage was not opposed to the laws of 
 God." The King was now determined, at once 
 and for ever, to get rid of so pestilent a subject, 
 and issued a commission to try him for high 
 treason, specially for his denial of the King's 
 supremacy over the Church. Solicitor-General 
 Rich deposed that the prisoner had said to him, 
 " I believe in my conscience, and assuredly 
 know by my learning, that the King neither is 
 nor can be head of the Church of England," 
 admitting, however, that this was said to him 
 privately and confidentially, when he went to him 
 from the King, who wished his candid opinion on 
 the question, and assuring him that whatever he 
 might say should not be made use of to his 
 detriment. The aged bishop, then 77 years of 
 age, defended himself with great dignity and 
 ability, but a packed jury found him guilty, and he 
 was condemned to death.
 
 THE MARTYRED CARDINAL. 
 
 187 
 
 He was sent back to the Tower, where, 
 notwithstanding his venerable age, he was treated 
 with the greatest indignities, and subjected to 
 great privation and suffering. In a letter to 
 Cromwell, still extant, he writes " I beseech you 
 to be good, master, in my necessity ; for I have 
 
 EMBLEMATIC DEVICE. 
 
 (Front the English version [Jj6o] of Fisher s treatise on the " Need of Prayer." ) 
 
 neither shirt nor other clothes that are necessary 
 for me to wear, but that be ragged and rent 
 shamefully. Notwithstanding, I might suffer that 
 if they would but keep me warm. But my diet, 
 also, God knoweth how slender it is. And now, in 
 mine age, my stomach may not away but with a few 
 kinds of meat, which, if I want, I decay forthwith."
 
 1 88 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 On the morning of his execution he was 
 awakened at five o'clock, and, when told -the time, 
 turned over, saying, "Then I can have two hours 
 more sleep, as I am not to die until nine." At 
 seven he rose and dressed himself in his best 
 apparel, observing that "this was his wedding 
 day, when he was to be married to death, and it 
 was fitting to appear in becoming attire." He 
 met his fate with the greatest firmness and 
 composure, and when his head was stricken off, 
 the executioner stripped the body, and it was left 
 naked on the scaffold until the evening, when it 
 was taken by the guard to All Hallows' Church- 
 yard, and buried in a grave dug with their 
 halberds, but was afterwards exhumed and buried in 
 the Chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula, in the Tower. 
 The head was placed over London Bridge for 
 fourteen days, "the features," says Hall, "becom- 
 ing fresher and more comely every day." Thus 
 died this good and famous Kentish bishop. 
 
 When the news reached Rome, the King, 
 whom it had been proposed to style " the angelic," 
 was stigmatised as a foul miscreant and diabolical 
 murderer, and branded as "the Nero, the Domitian, 
 the Caligula of England." A short time before 
 his execution, the Pope sent Fisher a cardinal's
 
 THE MARTYRED CARDINAL. 189 
 
 hat, upon which the King made a brutal jest, 
 saying, " 'Fore heaven, he shall wear it on his 
 shoulders then, for by the time it arrives he shall 
 not have a head to place it upon." 
 
 His portrait, by Holbein, is in St. John's 
 College, and another is in the English Bene- 
 dictine Monastery at Paris, and his bust was one 
 of the eight on the Holbein Gate, at West- 
 minster. 
 
 He was a very voluminous writer of devotional 
 and polemical works, and his life has been 
 frequently written, from different points of 
 view.
 
 Ikentisb dialects, anfc pegoe an!) 
 Xewis, the oR> County (Slossarists. 
 
 BY R. STEAD, B.A., F.R.H.S. 
 
 TWO friends are rather inclined to find fa.ult 
 with the writer for including in a volume 
 on " Bygone Kent" a short paper on the dialects 
 of the county. One sees no connection between 
 "bad English "and things " bygone," whilst the 
 other finds nothing worthy of special notice in the 
 folk-speech of Kent, he supposes "they talk 
 English in Kent, just as they do all over the 
 country." Now these two persons well represent 
 two great classes in their attitude towards 
 provincial dialects. Large numbers of people- 
 even of the so-called educated classes regard 
 these dialects as simply " bad English" and so 
 not worth troubling one's head about. What 
 they say is in effect this : the sooner railways 
 and Board Schools knock all that sort of thing out 
 of existence the better. On the other hand the 
 uneducated or half educated, who have never been 
 much out of their own district, are unable to see
 
 THE KENTISH DIALECTS. 191 
 
 any great difference between their own dialect and 
 ordinary received English. They suppose that all 
 their own peculiarities of grammar, vocabulary, 
 and pronunciation obtain as a matter of course all 
 over the country. An amusing instance of this 
 was furnished in Kent itself some three or four 
 years ago. The Kent Glossary, by Messrs. Parish 
 and Shaw, then just issued by the English 
 Dialect Society, received a long notice in the 
 columns of one of the leading Kentish weeklies. 
 The writer expressed his unbounded astonishment 
 that some of the commonest words in his own 
 vocabulary should be set down as mere provincial 
 words, and not ordinary English- that they are in 
 fact totally unknown to millions of Englishmen. 
 He ended by saying that if all this turned out to 
 be correct! he was evidently more than a little 
 doubtful about the correctness of Messrs. Parish 
 and Shaw's statements it would be news, and 
 amazing news, to most people. Like Monsieur 
 Jourdain with his prose, this young man had been 
 talking a dialect all his life without knowing it. 
 
 Now nothing is more certain than that 
 provincial English is for the most part not bad 
 English but old English. Local dialects are, in 
 fact, as compared with the received or literary
 
 1 92 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 tongue, in the position of poor (and despised) 
 relations. Under circumstances that need not be 
 dwelt upon here, one of the many provincial forms 
 of speech became the court or " standard " English. 
 The favoured dialect was that of the South 
 Midlands (though at one time it looked as if that 
 of the North would come to the fore). Of course 
 the court dialects soon came to be regarded as 
 the only "good" English, and fine folks began to 
 look down upon the poor sister dialects dialects 
 every whit as good as that of the South Midlands 
 which soon found themselves stigmatised as 
 "bad" English. As Tennyson's "Northern 
 Farmer" says, "the poor in a loomp is bad," and 
 naturally the English of the poor is set down " in 
 a loomp "as bad English. Amongst these poor 
 unfavoured dialects which did not become court 
 English, was the dialect of Kent for there is a 
 dialect of Kent, notwithstanding the incredulity of 
 the young newspaper-man just alluded to, and it is 
 as well worth studying as its sister dialects. 
 Unluckily but little attention has been given to 
 the Kentish folk-speech until very lately. For 
 years there was an ominous blank after the name 
 of Kent in the English Dialect Society's annual 
 lists of what was being done in the way of dialect
 
 THE KENTISH DIALECTS. 193 
 
 investigation in the different counties. Whereas 
 in many districts workers galore were to be found, 
 in Kent there was apparently not a single one 
 who thought it worth his while to investigate the 
 old Kentish folk-speech. Fortunately this re- 
 proach has now been removed, as will be explained 
 further on. 
 
 The famous mediaeval poem entitled th e 
 " Ayenbite of Inwyt" (or ''Remorse of 
 Conscience)," by Dan Michel of Northgate, in 
 Kent, is written in the Kent dialect. From that 
 time till 1674 nobody seems to have much regarded 
 the county speech, but in that year Ray, the 
 famous naturalist and collector of local words, 
 included a good many Kentish words in his 
 " South and East Country" collection. In 1736, 
 appeared the first genuine Kentish glossarist. 
 This was the Rev. John Lewis, who gave to the 
 world a short glossary of words used in the Isle of 
 Thanet. This glossary formed part of his work 
 " History and Antiquities, as well Ecclesiastical as 
 Civil, of the Isle of Tenet, in Kent." In the 
 same year the famous Samuel Pegge, a native 
 of Derbyshire, but long vicar of Godmersham, in 
 Kent, published his well-known "Alphabet of 
 
 Kenticisms." He included in his list almost all 
 
 o
 
 194 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 the words previously given by Lewis, and added 
 to them some hundreds more. Both collections 
 have been within the last few years re-issued by 
 the English Dialect Society. And under the 
 auspices of the same Society has lately appeared 
 a far more important work, " A dictionary of the 
 Kentish Dialect," by the Rev. W. D. Parish and 
 the Rev. W. Frank Shaw, alluded to above. A 
 copy of this, now the " Authority " on the subject, 
 together with copies of Pegge, Lewis, Ray, and 
 the " Ayenbite of Inwyt," ought to be in every 
 public library in the county. 
 
 Before noting its peculiarities it may be well 
 to show how the Kentish dialect is related to the 
 rest of the English provincial dialects. Leaving 
 out the Lowland Scotch district, the English 
 dialects of this island may be all grouped under 
 one or other of three great divisions, which may 
 be called respectively the Northern, the Midland, 
 and the Southern. These three leading forms 
 have obtained from very early times. A line 
 drawn obliquely across England from Morecambe 
 Bay to just below the H umber may be taken as 
 roughly separating the Northern dialects from the 
 Midland varieties ; whilst a very irregular 
 boundary line between the Midland and the
 
 THE KENTISH DIALECTS. 195 
 
 Southern forms of speech runs from a little below 
 the Wash to near Bristol. Each of these three 
 great divisions has certain well-marked peculiari- 
 ties of pronunciation. The late, learned Dr. A. G. 
 Ellis, whom the present writer was privileged to 
 know, and to assist to some extent, devoted many 
 years to the investigation of the different forms of 
 provincial pronunciation. Those who wish to 
 see what he did, should consult his truly marvell- 
 ous work on Early English Pronunciation (Early 
 English Text Society), especially his Part V. 
 On this whole subject, Dr. Ellis was far and away 
 the greatest authority. As test words by which the 
 great divisions of dialect (whatever their varieties) 
 may always be distinguished, he took the words 
 u some house." In the Northern dialects these 
 words are always " soom hoose," in the Midland 
 forms they appear as "soom house," and in the 
 South as "sum house." Kent, of course, belongs 
 to the "sum house " district. 
 
 Coming now to the good old county itself, the 
 labours of Dr. Ellis went to show that though th^p 
 folk-speech is fairly uniform over the whole of 
 Kent, yet two distinct varieties may be observed, 
 viz., the North Kent and the East Kent varieties. 
 There might even be said to be a third form, for
 
 196 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 a small portion near the western boundary of the 
 county resembles East Sussex in its dialect. The 
 line dividing the north Kent from the East Kent 
 forms is not very clearly ascertained, but it would 
 seem to be roughly a line drawn from about 
 Staplehurst through Canterbury round to 
 Sandwich, with a little fringe round the coast, 
 perhaps as far as Hythe, to include the boating 
 and fishing population, whose dialect seems to 
 agree in some respects with that of North Kent 
 rather than with that of East Kent. 
 
 Taking the county as a whole, the pronunciation 
 is marked by many peculiarities, a few of the 
 more important of which may be given. 
 
 1. The use of d for the initial th ; this, that, 
 there, etc., becoming dis, dat, dere ; th in the 
 middle of a word is not always so sounded, 
 though furder and farden (farthing) are 
 common enough. 
 
 2. The use of a for the short o in a vast 
 number of words : tap (top), spat (spot), 
 
 packet (pocket). With many speakers the o 
 becomes even aa, or ah, and it is quite a 
 common thing to hear such a sentence as 
 putt it ahn tahp (put it on the top). This is a 
 very striking peculiarity of the Kentish speech, ..
 
 THE KENTISH DIALECTS. 197 
 
 3. The pronunciation of the long a (as in slate), 
 and the diphthong ai (or ay]. Day, plate, rain, 
 become dye, plyte, ryne. This is almost 
 universal in North Kent, but much less so in 
 the eastern portion of the county, where with 
 many speakers it is almost unnoticeable. 
 This pronunciation of a, is of course well 
 known in the cockney dialect. 
 
 4. On the other hand the peculiar sound of oo, 
 or u long, which is almost universal in East 
 Kent, is hardly so common in North Kent. 
 Two becomes tiw, food, fiwd, or better still, 
 perhaps, fud, where the u resembles pretty 
 closely the German u. Sometimes it even 
 approaches ee, as soon is not very different 
 from the ordinary English seen. 
 
 5. Long i becomes oi, as moine (mine), voilet 
 (violet). 
 
 6. Ul often becomes ol, as solphur (sulphur), 
 moltitiide, or even maultitude. 
 
 7. What Dr. Ellis calls the "final reverted 
 /" is universal in Kent. Large numbers 
 even of fairly educated people use it, though 
 they would be indignant if told they were 
 to that extent using provincial forms of 
 pronunciation. This reverted / practically
 
 198 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 makes the letter into two syllables : thus bill 
 becomes bee-id, or bi/il, mail becomes 
 may-ul (or meJilj) steel, stee-ul, and so forth. 
 8. One of the best known characteristics is the 
 use of w for v Nowember, wacancy, willage, 
 wisit, uoittles. 
 
 But some doubt seems to have been expressed 
 by those whom Dr. Ellis consulted as to whether 
 the contrary use of v for w obtained in Kent. It 
 is, however, quite certain that this usage, though 
 rapidly becoming obsolete, is still to be met 
 with here and there. An old man living near 
 Westenhanger said to the present writer with a 
 hearty laugh, " I have a cousin comes here 
 sometimes and amuses us all. He calls this place 
 Vestenhanger. He lives in the 'veskit' district 
 you know," he added, by way of explanation. It 
 turned out that this cousin came from near 
 Wingham. (The worthy old fellow who was so 
 much amused with his relative's Vestenhanger 
 saw nothing funny in his own wery, weal [veal], 
 and winegar.} It is worth noting, too, that even 
 in his own district people speak of Postling Vents, 
 instead of Wents, or roads. And the writer has 
 heard a Folkestone fisherman call a friend Vellard 
 (Wellard). But this cockneyism as it may be
 
 THE KENTISH DIALECTS. 199 
 
 called everyone will recall Dickens' " Samivel 
 Veller" is rapidly dropping out of use in most 
 parts of the county. Before leaving the 
 pronunciation and we have indicated but a very 
 few of its peculiarities two general characteristics 
 may be pointed out. First the vowel sounds are 
 almost without exception remarkably impure, or 
 rather, undecided. The i in milk, for instance, is 
 a sort of cross between the short e and the short 
 u, melk, or mulk. Past is neither clearly pahst 
 nor past, but a peculiar half-way, so to speak, 
 between the two, paest, which must be heard to 
 be appreciated. The a for o, oi for /, u for oo, 
 and so forth have been already noted. The 
 second great characteristic of the -Kentish 
 provincial pronunciation is a very remarkable 
 clipping out or jumbling together of syllables, 
 which renders the dialect at first very puzzling to 
 a stranger. 
 
 It rarely happens that three or four consecutive 
 words, are uttered complete; some one or more 
 portions are sure to be left out : " Ae paes tiw " 
 does duty for "half-past two," " goozbriz" for 
 gooseberries, " Satdy " (or Setdy) for Saturday, 
 "Eshf" (or "Eshfd") for Ashford, "bar" for 
 barrow. At the railway stations " morn-peyp "
 
 200 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 stands for morning paper, "scursh," with a 
 very faint soupcon of an n at the end, passes 
 for excursion. Such a rapid jumble as 
 " moillgooberrneez " (!) for " mine will go better 
 than his," may be constantly heard from the 
 street boys. The effect of all this is very striking, 
 and teachers know the difficulty there is sometimes 
 in getting children to read without slurring over 
 or dropping two-thirds of the syllables. Thus 
 the sentence "A collision between ourselves and 
 the natives now seemed inevitable," will sometimes 
 be read something like this, " clizh-twee-seln-nate- 
 now-see-nevl," with a faint "filling in," so to 
 speak, between these strongly marked syllables. 
 
 Of the grammar little need be said here, but 
 a few curious turns of expression may be noted. 
 Double negatives are extremely common, and 
 such phrases as " no more you don't," " no more 
 I didn't," are everywhere heard. Then we get 
 "you didn't ought to," for "you ought not," "he 
 don't dare," for " he dare not," and so forth. 
 
 "The next to the last," for "the last but one," 
 is one of the commonest of phrases. As plurals 
 we get nesties (nests), posies or posties (posts), etc., 
 to any extent. Baint (or beent), for "is not" 
 still survives here and there, though it is evidently
 
 THE KENTISH DIALECTS. 201 
 
 dying out. To after help is omitted, " She wont 
 help carry the basket." "Directly minute" for 
 "immediately" is a curious phrase which may be 
 heard used even by well-educated people of the 
 upper middle class. " Deleft " is the past 
 participle of believe. Then people " keep all 
 on " doing things, and boys may be heard 
 constantly using, " No, you never," " No, I never," 
 and so on, for " No, you did not," " No, I did 
 not." 
 
 The rustic Kentishman has a fairly copious 
 vocabulary, and some of the words he uses are 
 very curious ones. A very familiar word is 
 " flead," which Pegge demies as "lard, or rather 
 the leaf of fat whence lard is got." To a native 
 of the county it seems incredible that there should 
 be millions of folk in England who never heard of 
 either ''flead" or "flead cakes." "Lodge" 
 means a wood or toolshed, just about the last 
 place where one would like to lodge. Oast or 
 oast-house is so common a feature of the Kentish 
 hop districts that the inhabitants look upon the 
 word as inseparably connected with hops. Yet 
 oast was used in Kent for a kiln long before hop 
 culture was introduced. There were "brick- 
 oasts," or " brickhosts," u lymostes " (lime-oasts),
 
 202 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 and probably other species as well. A very short 
 and handy word is "lew," which is much better 
 than the ordinary English "sheltered." " It lays 
 lew," it lies in a sheltered position. Culverkeys, 
 colverkeys, or cauverkeys is Kentish for cowslips, 
 though a native of Charing called these flowers 
 " horsebuckles." The word shires, pronounced 
 sheeres, is used in a vague way to denote any part 
 of England more than a county or two away. 
 " He comes from the sheeres," or "he's gone to 
 live somewhere in the sheeres," seems delightfully 
 vague in a country possessing forty shires, but it 
 seems to satisfy the good folks of rural Kent. 
 
 A very extraordinary expression is "to make 
 old bones," for to live to old age. To make bones 
 at all seems a difficult matter, but to make old 
 bones seems a truly puzzling feat. Yet the 
 phrase is found all over Kent and some of the 
 neighbouring counties. " Kentish fire," for long 
 and hearty cheering, is so well known that it need 
 not be dwelt upon. Effet for newt, crock, a large 
 earthenware pan or dish, may bug for cockchafer, 
 cater, for aslant or askew, with scores of others 
 are good Kentish words. Nailbourne or eyle- 
 bourne, deserves a passing word. It signifies an 
 intermittent brook, of which many exist in the
 
 THE KENTISH DIALECTS. 203 
 
 county. Similar springs are met with in or near 
 the Yorkshire Wolds, and are there called gipseys 
 (g hard, as in go}. Lathe for a division of the 
 county, and Minnis, a common (e.g., Stalling 
 Minnis) seem peculiar to this part of England. 
 A teg (or tag] is a sheep of a year old ; a hurdle 
 is called a wattle. Ampery, mouldy, decayed, 
 and tetter, cross, peevish, are very common. 
 Terrible, often pronounced ter'bl, is almost 
 invariably the word used to intensify the meaning. 
 "He's ter'bl bad," " dat aint ter'bl loikly," 
 " dere's a ter'bl many rabbits 'bout here." 
 " There's no bounds to him," means " there's no 
 saying what he may do." 
 
 One might go on culling these interesting 
 words and phrases from the Kentish glossaries to 
 almost any extent. Dip where you will into 
 them, and you can hardly fail to light upon some 
 racy old word or form of speech which "bygone" 
 Kentishmen used, but which, alas ! is now either 
 wholly obsolete, or on the way to becoming so. 
 How many nowadays, especially of town-dwellers, 
 would understand such a sentence as this given 
 by Lewis : " I took up the libbit that lay by the 
 sole, and hove it at the hagister that was in the 
 poddergrotten ?" I took up the stick that was
 
 204 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 lying by the pond, and threw it at the magpie 
 that was in the pease-stubble. Yet libbet, soal. 
 hagister, podder (peas, beans, etc.) grotten or 
 gratten (stubble) were formerly good Kentish 
 words, if they are now all but forgotten in many 
 parts of the country. 
 
 A glance at some of the old Kentish proverbs 
 or proverbial sayings given by Pegge must 
 conclude this imperfect paper : 
 
 " A knight of Gales, 
 A gentleman of Wales, 
 And a Laird of the North Countree : 
 A yeoman of Kent 
 With his yearly Rent, 
 Will buy 'em out all three." 
 
 This is one of the best known of these proverbial 
 sayings. Learned men have disputed as to the 
 origin of the curious phrase " Neither in Kent nor 
 Christendom." Dover figures in a good many of 
 these old sayings. " Dover a den of thieves," is 
 as uncomplimentary to that town as 
 
 " When it's dark in Dover 
 It's dark all the world over," 
 
 is the reverse. " As sure as there's a dog in 
 Dover " is at any rate more picturesque than the 
 common "as sure as a gun." "From Barwick 
 (Berwick) to Dover" is equivalent to saying
 
 THE KENTISH DIALECTS. 205 
 
 " from one end of the land to the other." Further 
 uncomplimentary references to towns are found 
 in such sayings as 
 
 " Long, lazy, lousy Lewisham." 
 
 " He that will not live long, 
 Let him dwell at Muston, Tenham, or Tong." 
 
 " Folkstone Kent Fools " is an anagram. 
 
 " He that rideth into the Hundred of Hoo, 
 Besides pilfering Seamen, shall find Dirt enow." 
 
 " Deal Savages, Canterbury Parrots, 
 Dover Sharps, and Sandwich Carrots." 
 
 " Naughty Ashford, surly Wye, 
 Poor Kennington hard by."
 
 Iking's School, Canterbury 
 
 BY THE REV. J. S. SlDEBOTHAM, M.A. 
 
 INHERE is no question that this old school 
 (a school which has the Differentia among 
 cathedral schools of being known by initials, for 
 " K. S. C." are sufficient to identify it) has of late 
 years attained a position, if different in degree, at 
 least no less distinguished, than at that period 
 which is said to have been one of the times of its 
 greatest prosperity, viz., during the head-mastership 
 of the Rev. Osmund Beauvoir, D.D., from 1750 to 
 1782. 
 
 In the very incomplete "Memorials" of the 
 school which I compiled and published in 1865, I 
 cannot consider that I recovered more than a 
 very fragmentary account of a foundation which 
 has contributed quite an average quota pro raid 
 to the list of England's men of learning and 
 distinction. 
 
 John Johnson, the well-known author of "The 
 Unbloody Sacrifice" (1714), mentioned in his 
 King's School Sermon, in 1716, four men of
 
 THE KING'S SCHOOL, CANTERBURY. 207 
 
 eminence as having received their education at 
 the school, viz., Bishop White of Peterborough, 
 Bishop Gunning of Ely, William Somner, the 
 antiquary, and Dean Spencer of Ely. There 
 was no question as to the three last named, but I 
 could nowhere trace the connection of Bishop 
 White with the school. I abstained from saying 
 in the " Memorials " that the then auditor, Mr. 
 Finch, declined to allow me to see the cathedral 
 records (although Dean Alford, with his ready 
 courtesy, had given me full permission to consult 
 them) " without the usual office fees," which 
 would of course have added seriously to the cost 
 of publication. " Besides," added the auditor, " I 
 do not know what use might be made of the 
 information." As if any use of such facts would be 
 prejudicial to anybody's interests ! This refusal is 
 the principal cause of the incompleteness of the 
 work. A search in the records of Canterbury 
 Cathedral would most likely bring to light at least 
 a few eminent names, as connected with the school, 
 in addition to those which are now known. I was 
 enabled, however, to recover some names of men 
 of learning and ability prior to the date of the 
 existing school register (the earliest known, 
 begun by Dr. Beauvoir on his appointment as
 
 208 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 head-master in 1750), from Masters' " History of 
 Corpus Christi College, Cambridge;" Hasted's 
 "History of Kent;" Nicholls' "Literary 
 Anecdotes ; " and from various manuscript 
 collections in the Bodleian and British Museum 
 Libraries. 
 
 When I consulted the former head-master, to 
 whom I shall always feel that I, in common with 
 many others, owe so much, the late Rev. George 
 Wallace, duringthe compilation of the "Memorials," 
 he gave me, with his usual ready kindness, much 
 valuable assistance and information, partly from 
 notes which he had made, partly from his own early 
 experiences and recollections. He added, with 
 his characteristic love for the past : " Remember, 
 I shall not be satisfied unless you trace back the 
 origin of the school to Theodore of Tarsus." 
 As will be seen on a reference to page 7 of the 
 work, an attempt was made to give effect to his 
 wish. And there can be little reasonable doubt 
 that, although the existing King's School is well- 
 known to owe its origin to Henry VIII., who 
 founded it soon after he had dissolved the 
 monastery of St. Augustine, a school has existed 
 continuously in connection with Canterbury 
 Cathedral from the time of Archbishop Theodore.
 
 THE KING'S SCHOOL, CANTERBURY. 209 
 
 The name of "The King's School" was, however, 
 first given to it by Henry VIII., in 1542, who then 
 re-modelled the entire Cathedral establishment, as 
 he re-modelled all but eleven of the Cathedrals of 
 England and Wales, those, the constitution of 
 which remained unchanged, being St. Paul's in 
 London, Wells, Chichester, Exeter, Hereford, 
 Lichfield, Lincoln, St. Asaph, St. David's, and 
 Sarum in the South ; and York, the one instance 
 in the Northern province. These are still known 
 as " The Cathedrals of the Old Foundation ;" the 
 remaining establishments, which were remodelled 
 more or less on the principle adopted at Canter- 
 bury, being known as "The Cathedrals of the New 
 Foundation." The statutes then given to Canter- 
 bury Cathedral, and afterwards "corrected, ex- 
 plained, and confirmed " in the reign of Charles I., 
 will be found in the second volume of the works 
 of Archbishop Laud, in the " Anglo-Catholic 
 Library." The original foundation staff of a head 
 and second masters and fifty scholars remains, but 
 the common table was discontinued as early as 
 1 546 ; and the school underwent other changes 
 about that time. 
 
 The idea of the " Memorials " occurred 
 simultaneously, and almost accidentally, to Bishop
 
 210 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 Mitchinson and myself. I happened to be in 
 Canterbury on the day he entered upon his duties 
 as head-master, and met him coming down the 
 Norman staircase after his first morning's school. 
 At the same moment the idea struck us both, that, 
 so far as we knew, no one had ever attempted to 
 recover any history of the school, and that yet 
 there must be a history. "Why," said he, 
 "should not you write it?" He then and there 
 invited me to visit him for a few days, during 
 which time I collected all that I could collect 
 from the documents he was then able to place 
 before me. Much kind assistance was also 
 received from many known and unknown to me ; 
 but it is to the knowledge and recollections of the 
 late Rev. George Gilbert, Prebendary of Lincoln, 
 and Vicar of Syston, that the most valuable 
 information of all is due. 
 
 In my own time, 1843 to 1848, not so much 
 as the name was known of any head-master 
 earlier than Mr. Naylor. The names of the later 
 head-masters are as follow : 
 
 1750. Rev. Osmund Beauvoir, D.D. 
 
 1782. Rev. Christopher Naylor, M.A. 
 
 1816. Rev. John Birt, D.D. 
 
 1833. Rev. George Wallace, M.A,
 
 THE KING'S SCHOOL, CANTERBURY. 211 
 
 1859. Rev. John Mitchinson, D.C.L. 
 
 1873. Rev. George John Blore, D.D. 
 
 1886. Rev. Thomas Field, M.A. 
 Dr. Beauvoir and Mr. Naylor had been King's 
 Scholars, but, till the election of Mr. Field to the 
 head-mastership in 1886, no old King's Scholar 
 had been so elected for 104 years. I believe Dr. 
 Mitchinson was always desirous that an old 
 King's Scholar should succeed to the head- 
 mastership, and he has lived to see his wish 
 realised. Mr. Talbot, head-master from 174510 
 1750, had a future Lord Chancellor (Lord 
 Thurlow) under his care ; Dr. Beauvoir had the 
 early education of Lord Chief Justice Tenterden. 
 It is in Dr. Beauvoir's time that the school was 
 said to have reached the most prosperous 
 condition it had then known, and it was at that 
 time the resort of many boys of old county 
 families. But although that connection ceased 
 about a century ago, the reputation of the school 
 for sound scholarship has certainly increased very 
 considerably since that time, and successive 
 masters especially In the last half century have 
 each in his turn rendered essential services to the 
 school. At the death of Mr. Naylor at an 
 advanced age, in 1816, the number of boys in the
 
 212 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 school had fallen to twenty-six. Under Dr. 
 Birt, his successor, the number rose rapidly, but 
 he also left but a small number of boys on his 
 presentation to the Vicarage of Faversham and 
 election to the head-mastership of Faversham 
 School, in 1833. Mr. Wallace, a master of much 
 energy, ability, and tact, raised the school again 
 to a number exceeding a hundred. Twenty-six 
 years of steady and Conscientious work told on him, 
 and through him on the school ; though, on his 
 presentation to the Rectory of Burghclere, in 
 Hampshire, by the Earl of Carnarvon, in 1859, 
 the number had not fallen to anything like the 
 extent of former reductions. To him the school 
 owes its present Schoolroom, which replaced the 
 old and effete building, where, however, many 
 sound scholars had been educated. But the old 
 building was rightly condemned on sanitary 
 grounds, and these alone, though there were 
 many others would have amply sufficed. Indeed 
 had Mr. Wallace done no more than this, the 
 thanks of all interested in the King's School 
 would be due to him for this most essential 
 service. 
 
 In some points he thoroughly understood the 
 character of boys, in others less clearly. For
 
 THE KING'S SCHOOL, CANTERBURY. 213 
 
 instance, he always inveighed against " paper- 
 chases," but never succeeded in thoroughly 
 putting them down. When I had been a short 
 time living in Canterbury, as rector of St. 
 Mildred's (1869-77), I asked his successor, Dr. 
 Mitchinson, how it was that " paper-chases," to 
 which Wallace had always been so strongly 
 opposed, were now not only permitted, but 
 thoroughly recognised. He replied that, finding 
 no prohibitions or even penalties could stop them, 
 the only remedy was to legalise them, and place 
 them under proper conditions. But Wallace had 
 certainly gauged boy-character in other ways 
 with no little accuracy. On going back to 
 Canterbury to reside after an absence of just 
 twenty years, I found as Parish Churchwarden a 
 plumber and glazier who had married the 
 daughter and had been the foreman of the 
 glazier who did all the school work in my time. 
 He told me that Wallace had said to him, " Cole, 
 never wait for an order when you see a broken 
 pane of glass, but mend it at once, because when 
 boys see one broken pane, there's an immediate 
 temptation to break another." Dr. Butler, of 
 Shrewsbury, once gave as the differentia of a boy 
 that he was " a pelting animal," and he was not
 
 214 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 far wrong. Wallace always made an enquiry 
 into broken windows, but he had the discernment 
 to do all he could to prevent gratuitous breakages. 
 Dr. Mitchinson, who succeeded him, sound 
 Churchman as he is, is not a more sound 
 Churchman than was Wallace, and no boys could 
 have been more thoroughly grounded in the 
 Church Catechism, the thirty-nine Articles, 
 and religious knowledge generally than by 
 Wallace ; but Dr. Mitchinson was a younger 
 man at the commencement of his time 
 than Wallace was, and a more accomplished 
 scholar. Wallace had been educated at Charter- 
 house, under Russell ; Mitchinson at Durham, 
 under Elder, one of Russell's best boys ; and 
 Russell used to say that he thus looked on him as 
 a grandson ; and he thought most highly both of 
 his ability and his attainments. He further 
 procured a considerable augmentation in the 
 value of the King's Scholarships and Exhi- 
 bitions, built a new head-master's house, and 
 greatly added to and improved the whole of the 
 school buildings. In his time, 1859-1873, more 
 university honours were attained by King's 
 Scholars than in any previous period of the 
 school's history. The same high reputation,
 
 THE KING'S SCHOOL, CANTERBURY. 215 
 
 though in another way, was maintained as it had 
 been through the mastership of Dr. Beauvoir ; and 
 it was in the time of Dr. Mitchinson's successor, Dr. 
 Blore, that a King's Scholar, Lawrence J. Ottley, 
 scholar of C. C. C., and now Fellow of Magdalen, 
 who had received his earlier education under Dr. 
 Mitchinson, gained the first university prize since 
 Lord Tenterden (who, in 1784 and 1786, had 
 gained the Chancellor's Prize for Latin Verse and 
 English Essay), by obtaining the Hertford 
 Scholarship. A former alumnus of the school, who 
 knew nothing about University Scholarships, once 
 spoke of it as "a poor thing" that no one from 
 the King's School had for so long a time gained 
 any great University Scholarship or Prize. It 
 could scarcely be said " to be a poor thing " not to 
 obtain one, but it was unquestionably a great 
 thing to be successful in a competition for which 
 none but the first scholars in the university would 
 ever think of entering. 
 
 Dr. Blore also brought great and varied 
 attainments, together with the prestige, like Dr. 
 Mitchinson, of the highest honours from Oxford, 
 to the work which he took up, on Dr. Mitchinson's 
 consecration to the Bishopric of Barbados. He 
 ably and worthily maintained the high character
 
 216 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 for scholarship which the school had obtained ; 
 and on his retirement, in 1886, after thirteen 
 years of successful work, he was succeeded by the 
 present headmaster, the Rev. Thomas Field, a 
 pupil of Dr. Mitchinson. He brought to the 
 work before him the antecedents of a scholarship 
 of C. C. C., Oxford, two classical first classes, a 
 fellowship at Magdalen, and a mastership at 
 Harrow. Under his careful diligence the school 
 has no doubt before it a brilliant future. Its visitors, 
 the Archbishops of Canterbury, have, of late years 
 especially, shown an active interest in it, and the 
 Dean and Chapter, as its governors, have 
 promoted those interests not only by their 
 influence, but by their personal care and knowledge 
 of the boys. One of its warmest friends was the 
 late Bishop (Parry) of Dover ; and his successor, 
 Bishop Eden, shows similar interest in the school. 
 
 Among the more eminent of its alumni who 
 have not yet been mentioned in this brief notice, 
 are : Christopher Marlowe, the dramatist (1574) ; 
 John Boyle, Bishop of Cork (1578); Richard 
 Boyle, Earl of Cork (1580); Dean Boys of 
 Canterbury (1582) ; Dr. Wm. Harvey, of immortal 
 memory, as one of the greatest of England's 
 physicians (1588) ; Accepted Frewen, Archbishop
 
 THE KING'S SCHOOL, CANTERBURY. 217 
 
 of York (1598) ; Gostling, the historian of Canter- 
 bury (1736) ; Dean Lynch of Canterbury (1707) ; 
 Archdeacon Randolph, President of C. C. C., 
 Oxford (1709); Castle, Dean of Hereford, and 
 Master of C.C.C., Cambridge (1710); Herbert 
 Marsh, Bishop of Peterborough (1770) ; and 
 William Grant Broughton, Bishop of Sydney 
 
 (i797). 
 
 This notice cannot claim to be more than a 
 sketch in but faint outlines, and touching if 
 anything more on the modern and present, than 
 on the origin and past, history of the school. But 
 perhaps those who read this paper will for 
 the most part feel greater interest in this more 
 modern period of the school's history. As for 
 the past history of the institution it is greatly to 
 be wished that a fuller and more complete account 
 may some day be produced than my " Memorials " 
 of 1865. It is to be hoped too that the time has 
 passed when office fees and other such obstacles 
 can prevent access to documents which any one 
 engaged in such a pursuit can have but one 
 object in wishing to search.
 
 Smuggling in Ikcnt 
 
 ANY book on the Kent of past days would be 
 lamentably defective if it did not contain 
 some allusions to smugglers and smuggling. 
 Whatever else " Bygone Kent " did, it smuggled. 
 It smuggled hard, it smuggled long, it smuggled 
 not unprofitably. Not a few substantial or 
 comfortable Kentish folk of to-day owe their 
 substance and comfort mainly to their grandfathers, 
 the eminent "free traders." For it is to be noted 
 these bygone worthies did not call themselves 
 smugglers, or anything else so coarse. They were 
 law-abiding, or if the law and their trade did seem 
 at variance sometimes, it was the law which was 
 wrong. They were "free-traders," as had been 
 their forefathers ever since the days of the 
 Conqueror. They explained the matter in this 
 wise. The Norman William struck a bargain 
 with the five chief ports of the south-eastern coast ; 
 these Cinque Ports were to furnish ships and men 
 for the use of their country when need was, and 
 in return they were to export and import as freely
 
 SMUGGLING IN KENT. 219 
 
 as they could wish. This compact was loyally 
 kept on both sides for one hardly knows how 
 many hundreds of years. Many a gallant ship 
 did the ports send to their country's assistance, 
 and many a brave sailor from Sandwich, or 
 Hastings, or Dover, went out to fight his 
 sovereign's battles, and never to return. And 
 many a goodly cargo of wines or silks from 
 France, of woollens and diapers from the low 
 countries, did the citizens land on the Kentish 
 coasts, without fear of custom-house official or 
 revenue cutter. And as almost every town and 
 hamlet on the coast was either a Cinque Port or 
 a " limb " of one, it followed that the whole of the 
 Kentish shore was within the limits of "free-trade." 
 Of course the men of the neighbouring counties 
 were not to be expected to be behind their 
 Kentish neighbours, and indeed the Cinque Port 
 jurisdiction extended over parts of the coasts of 
 Essex and Sussex, so that "free trade" was 
 pretty well established from Yarmouth to the Isle 
 of Wight. 
 
 But degenerate days came. There arose 
 governments which knew not the Cinque Ports, 
 and which said that the smuggling, as they 
 coarsely called it, must stop. To take away
 
 220 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 privileges without giving a qiiid pro quo was held 
 to be a shabby proceeding on the part of the 
 government, and the honest seafaring men of 
 Kent snapped their fingers at authorities, and 
 went on running cargoes as before. They were 
 as law-abiding as ever, when the law was in the 
 right, but in this case the law was clearly in the 
 wrong. Unluckily, the law had armed men and 
 revenue-cutters on its side, and the ancient coast 
 industry was at times carried on under decidedly 
 hampering conditions. But this was not by any 
 means the first time the men of the fine old 
 county had resisted tyranny on the part of govern- 
 ments, and so now official watchfulness was met 
 by extra caution, and trained troops by extra tact 
 and audacity. 
 
 Many a cave in the chalk cliffs was used as a 
 hiding-place for goods which had not been 
 subjected to the indignity of a duty, and there is 
 hardly a mile of rock-bound coast in Kent which 
 has not its " Smuggler's Cave." Still better 
 hiding-places were found in the Sandwich Flats 
 district, and in the water-logged Romney Marsh. 
 Casks of brandy and water-tight boxes of valuable 
 silks or tobaccos were weighted and sunk in the 
 interminable open land drains of the latter
 
 SMUGGLING IN KENT. 
 
 221 
 
 district, to be fished up again when the meddling 
 revenue officers had for the nonce ceased their 
 prying. Look-out places were built or adapted, 
 from which cunning systems of signals were sent 
 
 THE "SMUGGLERS NEST AT HYTHE. 
 
 to comrades afloat. Of these the famous 
 " Smuggler's Nest " at Hythe has happily remained 
 to our own days in pretty much its old form, and an 
 illustration of this picturesque old place is here
 
 222 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 given. Then, rightly or wrongly, a certain 
 Belvedere at Deal, near the present well-known 
 Lloyd's signalling station, is credited with having 
 been a guide and friend to the good men of that 
 locality. But for that matter well nigh every village 
 along the coast of Kent can show its " Smuggler's 
 Nest," whatever may happen to be the particular 
 appellation of the building. All sorts of odd hiding 
 places were found, and adjoining families arranged 
 through communication by means of the cellars. 
 At Folkestone, we are gravely told, the whole of 
 the houses on one side of the street were thus 
 connected, so that whilst the officers were diligently 
 fumbling about the cellar of No. i in search of a 
 "free trader" who had been seen to enter the 
 house, the said free trader was quietly coming out 
 of No. 45 at the other end of the street. 
 
 Vessels galore were built for the " trade," and 
 very fine boats they were many of them, capacious 
 yet swift, and in all ways admirably adapted for 
 their peculiar duty. And a bolder yet withal a 
 better-humoured set of fellows never manned boat 
 than their crews. The whole of the seaside 
 population was of course interested in the 
 business, and each and all were ever ready to rally 
 round comrades in case of a contretemps, or to
 
 SMUGGLING IN KENT. 223 
 
 help to trick the government officials. Many a 
 hard knock was received on both sides, and many 
 a goodly haul was made by the revenue. 
 
 Yet sometimes the " trade " had it all its own 
 way, and cargoes of untaxed goods were often 
 sold in broad daylight on the very beach. Many 
 are the funny stories told of how the officers were 
 outwitted, so many indeed that some of them may 
 probably be not uncharitably set down as pious 
 fictions. In one case however, the depositions 
 before the magistrates show that the unauthorised 
 cargoes were carried off under the very eyes of 
 the revenue officials, who were held by the mob at 
 the gate of the field in which the goods were 
 hidden. This took place at Folkestone in 1723. 
 But for really thrilling, and withal often funny, 
 accounts of "free trading" exploits the reader is 
 commended to some of the genuine old salts to be 
 met with even yet in some of the Kentish fishing 
 towns, notably Folkestone. A capital little 
 collection of stories, gathered from this and other 
 sources, is published by Mr. English of that 
 town. Many of the incidents related are very 
 droll, but we must not venture upon more than 
 one extract, or we may lay ourselves open to the 
 charge of being literary " free-traders." On the
 
 224 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 incumbent of a country parish a mile or two 
 inland going to his " coach-house one morning, he 
 found to his surprise that he could not open the 
 door, and had to obtain access from the hay-loft 
 above. To his utter astonishment he discovered 
 the place was almost filled with kegs of spirits, 
 which had evidently been deposited there by smugg- 
 lers. He was in a fix, and quite at a loss what 
 course to pursue. His loyalty would have prompted 
 him to give information, but his consideration for 
 his poor parishioners overcame his conscientious 
 scruples, and he resolved to take no notice, but to 
 wait the result. Perhaps it was well that he did 
 so, for we may be sure he was pretty closely 
 looked after by those interested in the consign- 
 ment, who, if they had seen any attempt to 
 'peach,' would have taken measures to prevent 
 it. Accordingly the tubs remained secure all day, 
 but the next morning they were all cleared out, 
 with the exception of one, which was labelled 
 ' For our Parson.' ' 
 
 Did all these little "free tradings" succeed on 
 the whole ? Well, the present writer can only say 
 he was informed by an old gentleman that his 
 grandfather, a noted smuggler the word has 
 slipped out somehow a native of Deal, made at
 
 SMUGGLING IN KENT. 225 
 
 the trade the round little sum of .40,000. That 
 certainly looked like paying, but it is to be feared 
 his was a somewhat solitary case. Yet not a few 
 of the "somebodies" inhabiting the coast towns, 
 who have never been known to toil or spin them- 
 selves, are the descendants of the old contra- 
 bandists, so that somebody must have made money. 
 The descendants not only feel no shame respect- 
 ing, but in many cases are very distinctly proud 
 of, their descent. And it would be both useless 
 and unpleasant to recall some of the not very 
 merciful or law-abiding exploits of the " bygones." 
 It is well known that the export of gold, 
 though, as far as possible prevented, was carried 
 on with great vigour, especially at Folkestone. 
 The profits were too enormous for the temptation 
 to be resisted. With the recital of a little story 
 anent this " guinea " trade this little sketch may be 
 brought to a conclusion. The writer heard the 
 
 o 
 
 story from the lips of a most worthy old 
 Folkestone sailor now alas! no more who 
 vouched for the truth of the story in every 
 particular. The father and mother of the 
 narrator lived in one of the narrow streets of old 
 Folkestone, famous as a haunt of smugglers. 
 The couple were about to retire to rest one dark
 
 226 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 and stormy night, when they were startled by a 
 particular tapping at the window. Opening the 
 door, the occupant of the house perceived a man 
 enveloped in a huge cloak, and wearing a big 
 slouch hat, which prevented his face fromb eing 
 seen. Motioning to him to keep silence, the 
 stranger entered, and threw off his hat and cloak. 
 He was the head of a very great financial firm, 
 whose name is known all over the world. The 
 old Folkestoner knew his visitor well. A few 
 moments sufficed to explain how matters stood. 
 The eminent financier had a trifling matter of a 
 hundred thousand guineas, which he wanted to get 
 safely across the Strait, and he wanted to secrete 
 the sum till a favourable opportunity occurred. 
 After much debating it was agreed at last that 
 the couple should ''sleep upon it " literally. 
 
 Accordingly the gold was carefully brought in, 
 in bags of a thousand guineas each. This was 
 laid between the bed and the mattress, a 
 hundred bags of shining gold ! The couple slept 
 on this, or, at least, tried to do, for the old boy 
 afterwards declared that he spent the very 
 uneasiest night of his life on that gold. Next 
 day every bag was taken away. " What every 
 bag?" we asked, "surely one was left, or a part
 
 SMUGGLING IN KENT. 227 
 
 of one!" "Not a single guinea out of a single 
 bag," replied the narrator, " and the best of it was, 
 my father could have stuck to it all ! They dared 
 not have made a row about it if he had stuck to 
 it, or it would have been worse still for 'em. 
 However, the firm's going to take my boy into 
 their bank, so it's all right."
 
 Ibnguenot Ibomea in Ifcent. 
 
 BY S. W. KERSHAW, F.S.A. 
 
 THE county of Kent is perhaps richer than 
 many others in historical associations ; its 
 proximity to the coast, the main roads leading to 
 the metropolis, the former importance of the 
 Minster City of Canterbury, all contributed to 
 make the so-called "Garden of England" famous. 
 Among its past annals, few have inter-twined 
 themselves so closely with the religious, intellectual, 
 and commercial life of the district, as the advent 
 of the refugees, first from the Netherlands and 
 later from France, escaping the cruelty of the 
 Duke of Alva in the Low Countries, the St. 
 Bartholomew massacre in 1572, and from the 
 results of the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes 
 in 1685. 
 
 Thus, two great emigrations occurred, distinct 
 in their bearings, but of much consequence to our 
 own history. The Reformation had sounded the 
 key-note to the changes in the ecclesiastical world, 
 and the advent of Edward VI. to the throne,
 
 HUG UENO T HOMES IN KEN T. 229 
 
 coupled with the Charter which he granted to the 
 foreign Protestants in 1550, for the free exercise 
 of their religion, made a fixed rallying point for 
 the fugitives to settle in England. These 
 advantages were increased in many ways, by 
 the arrival of John a Lasco, a famous Pole, who 
 had the general superintendence of the foreign 
 churches. His influence, and the subsequent aid 
 of Cecil, Lord Burleigh, who obtained the King's 
 Letters Patent for a Protestant to set up a French 
 printing press, in 1552, are recorded in Strype's 
 life of Archbishop Cranmer. 
 
 The Book of Common Prayer was now 
 translated into French, printed by Thomas 
 Gualtier in 1553, and dedicated to Thomas 
 Goodrich, Bishop of Ely. 
 
 The " Marches of Calais," as they were called, 
 were then in English possession, and the towns 
 therein had their orders from Cranmer for the 
 Bible to be read, and its different versions, 
 especially those in French, all had their in- 
 fluence in spreading the truth of the Reformed 
 doctrines, added to which the French church 
 of Guisnes, near Calais, was founded, and 
 drew together more closely both native and 
 foreign inhabitants, in one common sympathy.
 
 230 B YGONE KENT. 
 
 It is not surprising, then, as we shall see, that a 
 large number of those who settled in Eastern 
 Kent may be traced into districts round the 
 northern and opposite shore of France. Another 
 powerful aid was given by Archbishop Cranmer, 
 who, at his archiepiscopal houses of Lambeth 
 and Canterbury, warmly received John a Lasco, 
 Peter Martyr, Bucer, and other learned foreigners, 
 for the discussion of doctrinal questions which 
 were then uppermost in men's minds. 
 
 The old Palace of Canterbury is fraught with 
 many memories of Cranmer and the Elizabethan 
 Archbishops, who made it one of their chief homes ; 
 the business of the See was as much transacted 
 in this glorious Kentish city, 
 
 " Where thoughts and shadows gather round," 
 as in the distant metropolis. A fragment, how- 
 ever, but remains of this Palace, near the 
 Cathedral, and an archway and other portions, 
 built into modern houses, alone testify to the 
 former importance of a building in which so 
 many stirring events took place, from having 
 been a refuge to Thomas a Becket before his 
 murder, to the invasion of its precincts by the 
 Commonwealth soldiery. 
 
 Thus those refugees who first came into Kent,
 
 HUG UENO T HOMES IN KENT. 2 3 1 
 
 or who approached it from London, found a 
 congenial welcome in the freedom of religious 
 worship and thought which the times afforded. 
 The arrival of many Walloons to Canterbury, in 
 1547, was the first actual settlement, and a con- 
 gregation of exiles was formed under the care of 
 Utenhovius, and the leadership of other eminent 
 men. 
 
 The death of Edward the VI. caused a great 
 change. Several of the English bishops and 
 divines, who had upheld Protestantism, fled to 
 Frankfort, Zurich, or Geneva, and then began that 
 dire persecution which darkened Queen Mary's 
 reign. In Canterbury, the spot known as the 
 " Martyrs' Field," a little outside the city, 
 commemorates their place of suffering, and it is 
 probable some of these were foreigners. The 
 accession of Elizabeth, in 1558, opens a brighter 
 page on this refugee colony, for about that date we 
 may assign the regular congregation in the Crypt 
 church of the Cathedral, which had been granted 
 for their use by the Queen, and afterwards by 
 the Dean and Chapter, remains in historic 
 sequence to this day. 
 
 The Walloons had now been increased by the 
 French contingent, who, even before the fatal
 
 232 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 St. Bartholomew, escaped from the untold 
 severities which had been imposed on all who 
 tried to leave France. 
 
 Besides religious, commercial advantages were 
 secured to the newly-formed group of refugees 
 by their admission as freemen of the City of 
 Canterbury,* and in their successful petition to the 
 Mayor for grants of liberty and privilege to 
 exercise their callings, about the year 1561. 
 Weaving, and making of different woollen fabrics, 
 formed the staple industry, in 1564, we read 
 of one Giles Cousin, as " superintendent " of these 
 trades, and described by the local historian, 
 Somner, as " Magister operum et conductor totius 
 congregationis in opere." 
 
 The manufactories increased so rapidly that a 
 hall for essaying and receiving such goods, 
 and for other purposes, was established in the 
 quarter of the " Black Friars," along which the 
 little river Stour pursues its maze-like track. 
 This hall, though now converted to other uses, re- 
 mains in part, and shews how extensive a craft 
 must have been carried on by the "strangers." 
 The fanciful but picturesque tradition that the 
 
 *A paper on above subject, by R. Hovenden, F.s. A. , appeared in 
 Canterbury Press, 1884.
 
 HUGUENOT HOMES IN KENT. 233 
 
 cathedral Crypt, fashioned so deftly by the great 
 medieval builder, Prior Ernulph, was used by 
 the weavers, is without real foundation in fact. 
 Rather can we imagine that the long and narrow 
 rooms, with their glazed windows, in the upper 
 floors of many a house in the old city lanes, were 
 the veritable houses where the loom and the 
 shuttle plied their busy trade. The influx of 
 Walloons and others was so great that, in 1641, a 
 book was furnished, " where their names shall be 
 entered, with their testimonials, it being found 
 that by their trade they are beneficial to the city." 
 In 1665, there were 126 master weavers, and the 
 number so great that Charles II. granted 
 them a charter to become a company ; the first 
 master was John Six, the warden and assistants 
 were John de Bois, John Lepine, Gideon 
 Despaigne, Peter le Houcq, Henry Despaigne, 
 Philip Leper, and others. Now that the 
 industrial element had grown so large, the con- 
 gregations had also increased, and we turn for a 
 moment to the annals of the Crypt church. 
 
 From its encouragement under Queen Elizabeth, 
 aided by the Primates Parker, Grindal, and 
 Whitgift, the community became very influential, 
 and at one period, about 1640, we learn that the
 
 234 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 * " congregation, for the most part of distressed 
 exiles, had grown so great that the place, in a 
 short time, is likely to prove a hive too little to 
 contain such a swarm." 
 
 This protection lasted till the days of Arch- 
 bishop Laud, when that Primate exercised a 
 coercive domination over all the refugee churches, 
 forcing them to a strict conformity with the 
 English ritual, causing thereby many dissensions, 
 and a breaking up of their numbers. 
 
 It is not to be supposed, however, that the 
 members of the foreign church here were without 
 their own differences, which arose on doctrinal 
 questions, to which the rise of Socinianism gave 
 a powerful impetus. It was owing to such 
 disagreement that many severed themselves from 
 the Crypt church, and formed a new place of 
 meeting in a building called the " Malthouse 
 Chapel," in or adjoining the once existing Arch- 
 bishop's Palace before alluded to, and called 
 themselves the " French uniform church." We 
 cannot pass unnoticed the long list of " Pasteurs" 
 who have presided over the fortunes of the Crypt 
 congregation from 1564 to the present day, and 
 whose names are recorded on a tablet inside the 
 
 * Somner's " Canterbury."
 
 H UG UENO T HOMES IN KENT. 235 
 
 building. On the arched recesses, scripture 
 verses, copied from earlier sources, are to be seen, 
 reminding the exiled worshippers of their old 
 custom, when on the mountain slopes of southern 
 France they would sing aloud these hymns in one 
 vast assembly, thus recalling to them the sunny 
 land of their forefathers. 
 
 As time progressed, the foreign colony amalga- 
 mated with the native inhabitants, and resorted to 
 many of the parish churches, especially St. 
 Peter's, Holy Cross, and St. Alphage, whose 
 registers, replete with the names of "strangers," 
 have been published and ably edited by Mr. J. M. 
 Cowper, of Canterbury. 
 
 In the eighteenth century is recorded many an 
 interchange of service between the incumbents 
 of these churches and the pastors of the French 
 congregation, and we may now trace the assimila- 
 tion of the two nationalities, and the absorption or 
 change of many a foreign family name into that 
 of its English equivalent. 
 
 In so rapid a survey, it is impossible to mention 
 more than some of the noted refugees who, either 
 at Canterbury or around, have left a distinct 
 memorial in the ranks of theology, literature, or 
 commercial enterprise. Of these may be named
 
 236 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 Meric Casaubon, prebend and rector of Minster 
 and Monkton, whose father, Isaac, was illustrious 
 for his learning ; M. de L'Angle, who also held 
 Kentish livings, and died in 1724. John Castillion, 
 the Dombrain family whose ancestors escaped 
 from France in an open boat, and whose 
 descendant is the present Vicar of Westwell, 
 Herault, Du Moulin, Charpentier, Durand, Le 
 Sueur and M. le Cene, from Caen, whose transla- 
 tion of the Bible and collection of rare manuscripts 
 worthily endorsed his memory. Among others 
 who have held official positions, representing the 
 county, may be cited the names of Cartier, 
 Delasaux, Fineux, Harrenc, Perrin, Petit, Picard, 
 and others to be found either in the city archives, 
 local histories, or in Diocesan registers. 
 
 The weaving trade, towards the end of the 
 eighteenth century, had greatly declined, though 
 efforts were made to uphold it, and a petition was 
 presented by Archbishop Tenison, asking him to 
 promote the bill to restrict the importation of 
 East India silks. Here may be mentioned the 
 influence and aid given by the Primates, Wake, 
 Tillotson, and Seeker, generally, in the cause of 
 relief for the distressed refugees, and specially to 
 those who were connected with the Kentish
 
 HUG UENO T HOMES IN KENT. 2 3 7 
 
 capital or its district. In 1779, Hasted, the 
 historian, writes, " There are not more than ten 
 master weavers." 
 
 Though the industries rapidly lessened, and the 
 foreign families have dispersed, there still lingers 
 in this Minster city a strong representative 
 lineage, descended from those who lived and 
 laboured here and whose names survive on many 
 a tombstone, tablet, or ancient inscription : 
 
 "As records stand alone * 
 
 Of races that have passed away." 
 
 So powerful was this element that it was thought 
 advisable to place a stained glass window in the 
 east end of Holy Cross Church, and this memorial 
 to the Huguenots was unveiled in December, 
 1889. 
 
 There is thus a standing remembrance to 
 perpetuate the recollection of those who left home, 
 house, and kindred, to enjoy that freedom of 
 conscience which France had denied them. 
 Among the historical features with which this 
 ancient city is surrounded, not the least has 
 been the welcome and noble reception of those 
 strangers, who have not ungenerously requited 
 such kindness, and whose association with our 
 own lives has been vividly described by the late
 
 238 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 Archbishop Tait. " I do not forget that in this 
 cathedral there still remains a memorial of those 
 days when the Church of England gave an asylum 
 to our persecuted brethren who came from other 
 lands, so there is something to remind us of our 
 connection with those who in distant lands 
 maintain, under great disadvantages, the truths for 
 which the Reformers were contented to die."* 
 
 Dover has been much identified with the 
 landing of the refugees. As the nearest port to 
 France, it would naturally attract the strangers, 
 whose stay here was often of short duration, most 
 of them proceeding to more industrial centres, 
 or to London. 
 
 The early settlements here are obscure, and the 
 trade, which was principally shipping, did not 
 admit of long continuance at a time. Our tenure 
 of the district round Calais caused much reciprocal 
 communication, and the migration of many 
 families from northern France to East Kent is not 
 surprising. This fact is corroborated by several 
 names in the register of the foreign church at 
 Guisnes re-appearing round Dover and the locality. 
 Sir Hugh Paulet was Governor of Calais in the 
 reign of Edward VI., when the French translation 
 
 * Diocesan charge, 1876.
 
 // UG VENO T HOMES IN KEN T. 239 
 
 of our Prayer Book was made and prepared by 
 the King's authority. 
 
 The State papers (domestic series) mention 
 that from 1619-23, the influx of strangers was 
 great, and that through Lord Zouch's mediation 
 Archbishop Abbot granted them the occasional 
 use of the parish church of St. Mary's. A return 
 of their members was ordered to be made, 
 communicants and non-communicants who are 
 worthy of receiving alms, and also that they 
 contribute towards the support of their fellow 
 countrymen. The varied nature of those refugees 
 who settled at Dover has always been a subject 
 for discussion, but it may be generally affirmed 
 that they were the French speaking Flemish of 
 northern France, who were succeeded by those 
 from the interior parts of that country. 
 
 A regular community appears to have been 
 formed in 1646. Philippe le Keux was their first 
 minister, and from the researches of W. H. 
 Overend, F.S.A.,* four distinct congregations 
 were at different times represented in Dover, 
 beginning at the above date, and lasting till 1710. 
 
 It does not appear the refugees ever had a 
 church of their own, though a most fortunate 
 
 " Strangers at Dover." Huguenot Society Proceedings, 1890, Vol. III.
 
 2 4 o BYGONE KENT. 
 
 circumstance lately occurred which resulted in 
 recovering its registers, not long ago " edited " and 
 published. The Dover church was represented in 
 the London colloquy of the foreign churches in 
 1646, and some of its pasteurs have been associated 
 with that at Canterbury and elsewhere in Kent. 
 
 The constant and shifting transit of the 
 strangers to and from this port has, notwith- 
 standing, left its impress on names which have sur- 
 vived, and given a local colouring to the town and 
 adjacent district. Especially that of Minet, a family 
 connected with the church of Guisnes, is found 
 again in or round Dover. Others of foreign lineage 
 may be quoted, as Beauvoir, Delannoy, Campre- 
 don, d'Evereux, Lavaure, Lernoult, Quetville, 
 Monins, Mommerie, and several which the 
 limits of this sketch will not allow. 
 
 Sandwich claims peculiar interest. For a very 
 long time it was the home of Dutch, Walloon, and 
 French refugees, its trading capabilities, harbour, 
 and river 'all contributed to make it a desirable 
 resort. The picturesque and quaint town of to-day, 
 its red tiled houses and sloping eaves, over which 
 the massive towers of St. Peter's and St. Clement's 
 rise so boldly, seems to be the very same as when 
 it welcomed the weary and distressed fugitives of
 
 H UG UENO T HOMES IN KENT. 24 1 
 
 the 1 6th century. An ancient gateway or grey 
 stone parapet peeps out from some hidden corner, 
 while a carved bracket or oaken beam juts forth 
 from many a half timbered house. 
 
 Almost the first settlement here was in Queen 
 Elizabeth's reign, though there had been 
 arrivals from the Low Countries before that date. 
 Archbishop Parker visited Sandwich in 1563, 
 and noticed the French and Dutch, or both, and 
 it is recorded in his life by Strype that the 
 Primate said, on the occasion of his visit here, 
 " that profitable and gentle strangers ought to be 
 welcomed and not grudged at." Industrial 
 resources were abundant, and the archives 
 of 1622 (James I.) give a return of some 150 
 weavers, their trades and professions, the chief 
 of which was making of " bayes, lynsie woolsies," 
 etc. 
 
 We find several foreign names at this port again 
 recurring at Norwich and Colchester, shewing that 
 there must have been inter-communication with 
 these towns, and that trade was diverted from one 
 place to another, according to its success or 
 decline. 
 
 Though jealousy could not fail to exist between 
 the natives and the strangers, the former learned
 
 2 4 2 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 from the latter many industries, especially that of 
 cloth-making, spinning, etc., and on the Queen's 
 visit to Sandwich, in 1573, on one of her progresses 
 through Kent, these fabrics were exhibited to her. 
 Other occupations were carried on, as hatmakers, 
 taylors, whitesmiths, so that great activity prevailed 
 for some years. 
 
 A French congregation seem to have existed 
 here in 1568, according to a book of receipts, in 
 which is mentioned " 1'eglise de Sandevuyt 
 Francaise." It does not appear the refugees ever 
 had a church of their own, but were allowed the 
 use of St. Clement's, to which they contributed a 
 sum for expenses, and a proportionate cost for 
 repairs. 
 
 This congregation, like the others in Kent, 
 came under the ban of Archbishop Laud, and 
 proceedings were taken against it to enforce 
 uniformity of worship, but the mightier events 
 which preceded the Scotch war were at hand, and 
 precluded further action. The harsh treatment 
 of the "strangers" is fully set forth in a rare 
 pamphlet by John Bulteel, minister of the French 
 church in Canterbury, and entitled "Troubles of 
 the three foreign churches in Kent." Allusion 
 has been made before to the industries which were
 
 HUGUENOT HOMES IN KENT. 243 
 
 begun or perfected by the refugees, but we must 
 not forget that Sandwich claims the honour of 
 introduction by the Flemish of the homely 
 cabbage and celery, and so much were these 
 vegetables in demand that gardeners from this 
 ancient Cinque Port, settled at Battersea, 
 Bermondsey, and round London, and planted 
 those fields that even to-day shew traces of past 
 and successful culture. 
 
 Similarly, with the settlements at Dover and 
 Canterbury, that of Sandwich has bequeathed 
 names surviving to the present, and tracing back to 
 the time of the different immigrations. Of these 
 may be mentioned Van Dale, De Long, Cowper, 
 Sayer, Verrier, Rondeau, and others in the 
 district around the same foreign element can 
 be identified. 
 
 Hythe, though in a lesser degree, is also 
 associated with our annals ; it is probable that the 
 refugees were few in number, and for their 
 religious exercises resorted to Dover or Canter- 
 bury. Connected with this place, however, is the 
 family of De Bouveries (Earl of Radnor), who 
 represented it in Parliament on several occasions. 
 
 The valued name of Huguessen, originally a 
 refugee from Dunkirk, and now better known
 
 244 B YGONE KENT. 
 
 as Lord Brabourne, claims local importance. 
 Several well-born emigres were chiefly mer- 
 chants from the Low Countries, and a list of 
 them, with their callings, is to be found in a 
 volume of the Camden Society, entitled " Foreign 
 Protestants, etc., resident in England," 1618-88. 
 
 In 1622, it appears that a return of the 
 strangers of Hythe by the mayor and jurists 
 was ordered to be sent to the Lieutenant of 
 Dover Castle. 
 
 The Weald of Kent can hardly be passed 
 unnoticed, for its varied industrial resources, 
 which naturally attracted the refugees, would lend 
 them substantial aid. 
 
 Foremost was the cloth trade, specially at 
 Cranbrook and Headcorn ; the arrival of Flemish 
 weavers, so long as the time of Richard II., 
 may have induced succeeding strangers to 
 settle, and it was only towards the middle of the 
 1 8th century that the Kentish industry had to 
 compete with the great cities of Leeds and Brad- 
 ford, and to relinquish its local ascendancy. 
 Woollen goods were exported, and the sacking of 
 Antwerp, in 1576, transferred much of the trade 
 to England, and, in all probability, many foreign 
 craftsmen followed. Queen Elizabeth, always
 
 H UG UENO T HOMES IN KENT. 2 4 5 
 
 ready to promote her subjects' welfare, secured 
 her manufacturers great prosperity. The cast iron 
 industry, though much practised in Sussex, was 
 found in the Weald, and one of the master 
 founders employed as his principal assistant, Peter 
 Baude, a Frenchman, and to this day some of 
 the old furnace ponds remain. * 
 
 The Wealden annals, though scattered, may 
 fairly claim a part in " Bygone Kent," for in 1689, 
 four years after the Revocation of the Edict of 
 Nantes, we read that there was a collection at 
 Cranbrook in aid of the Protestant exiles, and 
 that Sir Thomas Roberts, an old inhabitant, 
 greatly sympathized in their cause. There 
 appears to have been no foreign church at all in 
 the district, but the strangers would have resorted 
 to the border town of Rye, where a French con- 
 gregation had been formed. The results from 
 their advent and residence are ably commented 
 on by Canon Jenkins, who, in his " Diocesan 
 History," observes "they tended to leaven the 
 population with which they held daily intercourse 
 those who had established their industries among 
 themthe clothiers of the Weald, the ironworkers 
 
 * " The names of Furnace Farm, Furnace Pond, and Cinder Hill, are 
 still preserved. 1 ' Furley's " Weald of Kent."
 
 246 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 of the district bordering on Sussex, and the 
 gardening population of Sandwich and South- 
 East Kent all contributed to the signal and 
 almost unparalleled success of a movement which 
 brought at the same time temporal prosperity 
 and spiritual freedom." Little remains to indicate 
 the past, but in the picturesque and gabled houses 
 in and near Cranbrook, which shew traces of 
 Flemish architecture, and in the cloth halls (now 
 converted into private use) the story of refugee 
 life can still be told. 
 
 At Faversham there was a French congregation 
 about 1696, and although few particulars are 
 extant as to this settlement, there is evidence in 
 the local names of a distinct foreign element, of 
 which the family of Giraud, both in this town and 
 surrounding districts, has long held honourable 
 mention. 
 
 Intimately connected with our subject is 
 Maidstone, where many industries attracted the 
 Walloon and Flemish fugitives, who came from 
 the Netherlands and formed a strong contingent 
 m J 573. having the Royal protection and 
 sympathy. The corporation granted them the 
 use of S. Faith's Chapel and burial ground, and 
 before that date they petitioned the Queen to
 
 HUGUENOT HOMES IN KENT. 247 
 
 allow them to establish their manufactures, which 
 was granted. 
 
 The cloth trade was one of the staple com- 
 modities ; Guilds were established, to which 
 strangers had to be admitted before they could 
 practise their craft. 
 
 Threadmaking was another enterprise, and this 
 flourished in Maidstone for some time, till the 
 trade decayed by the importation of thread from 
 Flanders. 
 
 The State Papers of 1622 give a list of such 
 strangers born in the town, of which the thread- 
 makers formed a considerable portion. Their 
 religious liberties were permitted until, like the 
 other Kentish settlements, they came under the 
 Laudian sway, when many left the country, dis- 
 persing with them the industries which had 
 already benefited this district, and, as related by 
 the late Mr. Furley in his " History of the 
 Weald," ''clothiers, merchants, and others, being 
 deprived of their ministers, and overburdened 
 with grievances, have departed the kingdom to 
 Holland and other parts." 
 
 Towards the end of the seventeenth century 
 the refugee annals of Maidstone are not so 
 
 o 
 
 frequent, and the strangers had either repaired to
 
 248 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 the parish churches or had embraced Noncon- 
 formity, whose progress was much increased by 
 this addition to its ranks. 
 
 A remarkable instance of the effects of the 
 persecutions in France, and the singular accident 
 of its results in the little colony at Boughton 
 Malkerbe, near Maidstone, may fitly close this 
 chapter. 
 
 In 1 60 1, the Marquis de Venours, of Poitou, 
 sought protection in England, and having taken a 
 house and land here (probably Boughton Place), 
 the seat of the Wottons, had a recommendatory 
 letter from Archbishop Bancroft to the Rector 
 of this spot. " That the inhabitants shall receive 
 him and his following with Christian charity, and 
 that as they do not understand English, the Arch- 
 bishop appoints M. Jacques Rondeau to preach 
 in the parish church of Boughton, to which access 
 may be given at such times as shall not hinder the 
 ordinary congregation." This proceeding fully 
 bears out the generous character of Bancroft, 
 who, on more than one occasion, like Bishop 
 Ken, showed warm sympathy with the cause 
 of the suffering refugees, both by recom- 
 mending his clergy to raise subscriptions, and by 
 other assistance.
 
 HUG UENOT HOMES IN KENT. 249 
 
 Round this neighbourhood, of which Maidstone 
 may be called a centre, many foreign names 
 assuredly had their origin ; in the settlements of 
 those was found freedom in this fair and favoured 
 County. The following may serve as examples : 
 De la Douespie (East Farleigh), Le Geyt 
 (Chislet), De L'Angle (Tenterden), Fremoult 
 (Wotton), who were incumbents of the above 
 parishes. 
 
 In tracing but a few of the "homes and 
 haunts " of the strangers, we may apply to 
 them the graphic words which Canon Jenkins* 
 uses to those of the Cathedral city, "The numer- 
 ous surnames of purely French origin which 
 meet the eye in every direction, prove that a large 
 proportion of the inhabitants are the descendants 
 of the settlers from France and Flanders, in the 
 time of Edward the Sixth, and some of the most 
 eminent prebendaries of the Cathedral had a 
 similar origin." 
 
 * Diocesan History. Rev. R. C. Jenkins, 1881.
 
 T 
 
 IDover Castle. 
 
 BY E. WOLLASTON KNOCKER. 
 
 HIS fortification, crowning the white cliffs of 
 Albion, overlooked, centuries since, the 
 valley through which ran the estuary now known 
 as the river. Dour, three-and-a-half miles long, and 
 on its south side the antient small but walled 
 town of Dover. 
 
 The banks of the stream formed the landing- 
 place of Romans, Saxons, Vikings, and Normans ; 
 and around it in later years was formed the port, 
 at which in successive ages have arrived and 
 departed crusaders, pilgrims, sovereigns, tourists, 
 and pleasure-seekers. 
 
 The position is almost unrivalled throughout 
 the world ; it was the true clavis regni, and it has 
 been the scene of many interesting events and 
 several sieges. 
 
 When in B.C. 55 Julius Caesar landed in Kent, 
 he found hardy warriors with well-found chariots 
 to oppose his march inland, and it is not 
 improbable that the art of warfare thus learnt by
 
 DOVER CASTLE. 251 
 
 the Britons may have led to the construction of 
 such an earthwork as that on which the Roman 
 Pharos still stands. 
 
 Caesar in his Commentaries makes no mention 
 of any fortifications which he constructed in this 
 realm. The first Roman cohort, iioo strong, 
 was stationed at Dover. It claimed the post of 
 honour and the custody of the imperial eagle. It 
 is not improbable that a fortification was erected 
 (A.D. 43-49) by Aulus Plautius or Publius Ostorius 
 Scapula, both generals of consular dignity, who 
 had been despatched with armies by the Emperor 
 Claudius, the first to reduce part of Britain to a 
 Roman province, and the second to quell the 
 turbulent Britons who had refused to pay their 
 stipulated tribute. The castle was called Caesar's 
 Castle for some centuries. 
 
 The Pharos, or light-house, and its companion 
 on the opposite hill, were probably both of 
 Roman construction. 
 
 The one in the castle is thought to have been 
 used by the Normans for the purposes of defence. 
 
 The early Christian Church, dedicated to Saint 
 Mary, adjoining the Pharos, is said to have been 
 reconsecrated by St. Augustine. It requires a 
 volume to itself, and this has been admirably
 
 252 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 provided by the Rev. Canon Puckle in his 
 history. 
 
 Much controversy has raged over its origin 
 and date, but these cannot be entered upon within 
 the limits of this paper. Its restoration by the 
 Government for a military church has saved it 
 from the oblivion its ruined state for many years 
 seemed to portend. 
 
 Eadbald, the son of Ethelbert, who had been 
 Governor of the castle, after the death of his 
 father succeeded to the kingdom of Kent about 
 A.D. 600, and we are told that he founded a 
 college in connection with the church, and its 
 establishment has been stated at from six canons 
 and a provost to twenty-four. 
 
 It is difficult to determine the site of the 
 religious house used by these clerics, but it is 
 supposed to have been situated near Colton's Gate. 
 
 From the time of St. Augustine therefore (who 
 landed in Kent A.D. 596) it is probable that there 
 was a small separate ecclesiastical establishment 
 in the castle. 
 
 During the Wardenship of John de Fienes, 
 about A.D. 1084, it is said there were three chap- 
 lains, who had separate duties assigned to them, and 
 among these, that, not of punishing offenders, but
 
 DOVER CASTLE. 253 
 
 of advising the Constable in the exercise of his 
 judicial functions. 
 
 From the subordinate position of these 
 chaplains and their successors is probably to be 
 attributed the fact that history tells so little about 
 the religious part of the castle administration. 
 
 At the Reformation the number of chaplains 
 was reduced to one, but service was regularly 
 performed until the year 1690. 
 
 Hengist (A.D 449-455) probably extended the 
 Brito-Romanic earthworks so as to include what 
 is now the keep yard, and he is stated to have 
 built the fortress. Its extension would at least 
 have provided for a larger garrison. 
 
 Horsa became Governor of the castle. 
 
 Alfred the Great was the first of the Saxon 
 kings who employed the mason in the art of 
 fortification, and he doubtless enclosed the Saxon 
 and Roman earthworks of the castle with walls, 
 gates, and towers. 
 
 Earl Godwin (who died A.D. 1053) m tne re ig n 
 of King Edward the Confessor, was perhaps the 
 first Lord Warden who was also Governor of the 
 castle. These offices have remained in combina- 
 tion to the present day. Godwin made consider- 
 able additions to the castle, and one tower, which
 
 254 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 formerly stood at the entrance of the keep yard, 
 bore his name. 
 
 At the Norman Conquest (A.D. 1066) and after 
 the Battle of Hastings, William, Duke of 
 Normandy, marched first towards Dover Castle, 
 then the most important fortress of the kingdom, 
 and during the opposition to his approach, among 
 the privileges extracted from the Duke was the 
 one known as the law of gravelkind, which is 
 still in force in Kent, and regulates the descent 
 and inheritance of land in it. At the same time 
 (it is said) arose the fabled distinction between 
 " Men of Kent" and <; Kentish men." 
 
 Duke William did not cross the Medway as a 
 Conqueror, so the inhabitants of the eastern 
 division of the county were styled " Men of 
 Kent." Hence, too, the County motto, " Invicta." 
 
 William remodelled and extended the castle 
 fortifications, enclosing the portion between the 
 British, Roman, and Saxon works and the edge of 
 the cliff. He also built some of the additional 
 towers in the outer wall. 
 
 To each he assigned one of his knights, and, 
 according to the custom of feudal tenure, made 
 him a grant of land on condition that he kept his 
 tower in a state of defence, and did service in the
 
 DOVER CASTLE. 255 
 
 castle with a fixed number of retainers for a 
 specified period of the year. 
 
 Among these towers, commencing from the 
 south-east, are those of Albranche of Folkestone. 
 He delegated his command to one Rokesley, 
 whose name the tower afterwards bore. 
 
 Fulbert of Dover was Lord of the Manor 
 and Castle of Chilham in Kent, on condition that 
 he kept one fort in repair. Hence the tower 
 was first called Chilham, but its Deputy-Governor 
 was one Chaldercot, and the tower later was 
 called by his name. This tower had a small one 
 as an appendage to it, which took its name from 
 Hurst, a village near Chilham, the rents of which 
 were allotted to its repair and defence. 
 
 Near Fulbert's Tower was the Bodar's house. 
 As sergeant-at-arms he was also gaoler of the 
 adjoining prison. 
 
 For many centuries, and within the recollection 
 of the present generation, it was used as a prison 
 for debtors. These used to ring a bell near the 
 outside of the Canon's Gate, and attract the 
 attention of passers by, to obtain alms in a box 
 placed close to the bell. 
 
 The next tower anciently took its name from 
 Arsick, its first commandant. He got Say to take
 
 256 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 charge of it, and it was called after him, Say's 
 Tower. Two good estates, Langdon and 
 Pevington, were held by this tenure. 
 
 In the same way the defence of other towers 
 was provided for. Galton Tower, with which 
 was held Galton in Surrey on castle-guard tenure. 
 Peverill's, called also Beauchamp's and Marshal's 
 Tower. The Marshal resided in it. Perth's 
 Tower later named Castings. It was rebuilt by 
 Queen Mary and then called Mary's Tower. 
 The Constable's Tower, which was larger than 
 the others, was first named Fienes, or the 
 Newgate Tower, later after Hubert de Burgh, 
 but because of its use by the governors for 
 business purposes it afterwards had its present 
 name, The Constable's Tower. It was for many 
 years the residence of the Deputy- Warden or 
 Deputy-Governor of the castle (an office which 
 continued to the present century) and it is now 
 the official residence of the General commanding 
 the south-eastern district. 
 
 The towers to the north of this one are : 
 Pencester (which was the Treasurer's or Pay- 
 master's residence) ; Godsfoes ; the Earl of 
 Norfolk's (Marshal of England) or Craville, which 
 commanded the royal bridge supposed to have
 
 DOVER CASTLE. 257 
 
 been built by the Romans leading to the castle ; 
 Fitzwilliam's or John's ; Avranche or Maunsell's ; 
 Veville's ; Godwin's ; and Valence's or Morti- 
 mer's. 
 
 The commandants of all these towers held 
 estates on the castle-guard tenure. 
 
 Inside the castle were several towers : 
 Clintons ; Colton's Gate, near the Church (in 
 which were the chaplain's lodgings) ; Harcourt's 
 Tower ; The Fountain or Well Tower ; Arthur's 
 Gate, leading to Pencester Tower ; the Palace 
 Crate, leading to the palace or keep ; and the 
 Duke of Suffolk's Tower adjoining. 
 
 Near the last named was another Tower, in 
 which were stored all the arms, machines, and 
 stones necessary for the defence of the castle ; 
 adjoining to this arsenal was the King's kitchen. 
 
 Surrounding the keep and the keep yard are 
 lofty walls, having in them some of the towers 
 already named, and built against them were many 
 rooms formerly used for the accommodation of 
 the Court, and which are now used by men of the 
 Royal Artillery quartered there. Among these 
 was a hall called after the renowned King 
 Arthur. 
 
 The mere enumeration of these towers and 
 
 S
 
 258 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 gates shows the importance attached to the 
 defence of the castle ; the large and numerous 
 estates alloted to its maintenance, and the 
 strength of the garrison. 
 
 The principal gates of the castle were the 
 Canons' Gate ; Friars or Old Gate ; the principal 
 one, long called the New Gate, because it took 
 the place of the older one through the Constable's 
 Tower, now known as the Queen's Entrance or 
 Constable's Gate ; a postern in Earl Godwin's 
 Tower ; and a small gate called the Ethetisfordian 
 Gate. 
 
 There is yet another approach. At the foot of 
 the cliff, between the castle and the sea, 
 Henry VIII. built a fortification called Moat's 
 Bulwark. A shaft was made in the cliff with 
 circular steps, by which access was given from the 
 bulwark to the castle. It is said that George IV., 
 then Prince of Wales, in 1798, was conducted down 
 these steps as the nearest way to the town. 
 
 The keep, we are told, was 89 feet in height, 
 and its walls so thick that they had apartments 
 within them, and some of these can still be seen. 
 In it is Harold's Well, said to have been 240 paces 
 deep. Its importance during the sieges was duly 
 estimated. Harold swore to William of Nor-
 
 DOVER CASTLE. 259 
 
 mandy to deliver it up with the castle. The well 
 still exists, though it has been partially filled in 
 from visitors having been allowed for many years 
 to throw pebbles down it to enable them to judge 
 of its great depth. 
 
 The keep contains two chapels ; the lower one, 
 called St. John's, near the grand staircase, is of 
 beautiful Norman work, which has been partially 
 restored. The upper one above it was a private 
 chapel for the use of the sovereigns and others 
 occupying the keep. The banqueting hall and 
 presence chamber are now used as armouries. 
 One of these was called Arthur's Hall, though it 
 is different from another in the Keep Yard which 
 bore the same name. These halls are of large size, 
 and were fitted for the uses of a royal residence 
 at the time they were so appropriated. Their oak 
 floors are said to consist of the original timber used 
 when they were constructed. 
 
 How many sieges, surprises, and reliefs the 
 castle has witnessed it would be difficult to 
 recount, even if the present space allowed. 
 
 The most important siege was that by the 
 Dauphin of France in 1216, after he had marched 
 to London and laid waste Essex, Norfolk, and 
 Suffolk.
 
 260 BYGONE KENT, 
 
 Stephen de Pencester, with 400 men, succeeded 
 in reinforcing the garrison by entering it 
 undiscovered, it is said, through the sally-port 
 under Godwin's Tower. But the Dauphin, after 
 a long siege, did not succeed in taking the castle. 
 
 In most of our civil commotions the castle 
 attracted the attention of both parties. So lately 
 as the troubles during the reign of Charles I., it 
 was taken by surprise in the night of the ist 
 August 1642, by a merchant named Drake, with a 
 few men who had scaled the cliff by the aid of 
 ladders and ropes. 
 
 Having secured the sentinel, they threw open 
 the gates, and the garrison being weak, and the 
 officer in command supposing in the dark that 
 the force against him was large, surrendered 
 the castle. The Earl of Warwick, who was at 
 Canterbury, sent a small force to guard it. It was 
 besieged afterwards by the Royalists, but the 
 siege was raised by a Parliamentary force sent for 
 that purpose. 
 
 Many of our Sovereigns have occasionally 
 resided there. Among these were : Stephen, who 
 died at Dover, either in the castle or at one 
 of the religious houses. Henry II., on his way to 
 Normandy, Richard I., on embarking for the Holy
 
 DOVER CASTLE. 261 
 
 Land, as well as on other occasions. Edward I., 
 on his way to and from the Continent. Edward 1 1. 
 and Edward III., each several times. 
 
 Henry V. In his reign the Emperor Sigismund 
 was allowed to land on his assurance that he was 
 a messenger of peace. After seventy years, 
 during which period none of our kings visited the 
 castle, Henry V. embarked at Dover with an 
 army. 
 
 Henry VIII. was a regular visitor to the castle, 
 and embarked there for the Field of the Cloth of 
 Gold, having his then Queen at the castle. 
 
 Its last royal occupant is believed to have been 
 Charles I., who met his Queen, Henrietta of 
 France, on the grand staircase, and she made the 
 keep her abode on the night of her arrival, Sunday, 
 1 3th June 1625. 
 
 Beyond a visit by day made by Her present 
 Majesty, with Arthur, Duke of Wellington, there 
 appears to be no record of any intermediate visit 
 of an English sovereign. 
 
 Many of the Lord Wardens of the Cinque 
 Ports, as Governors of Dover Castle, resided there 
 from time to time. 
 
 Several were members of the royal family, 
 others distinguished generals and statesmen.
 
 262 BYGONE KENT. 
 
 Those of the present century have been, Pitt, 
 Hawkesbury, Wellington, Dalhousie, Palmerston, 
 Granville, W. H. Smith, and the present Lord 
 Warden, who is believed to be the i5Oth, the 
 Marquis of Dufferin and Ava. 
 
 Possibly no castle can boast such a succession 
 of governors, so identified with the interests of 
 the kingdom that to write their lives would be to 
 re-write its history. 
 
 Many have seen something of the wonder- 
 ful subterranean passages of the castle. 
 These were perhaps originally formed to give 
 means of escape, or communications with the 
 outside, to a beleaguered garrison. Tradition says 
 that there were passages to Walmer Castle, 
 Langdon Abbey, and St. Radigund's Abbey. At 
 Langdon there is still an opening to what may 
 have been such a passage. 
 
 During later years the passages inside the 
 castle have been adapted and extended for 
 defensive purposes. Whether or not they can be 
 so utilized now seems doubtful. As a modern 
 fortification the castle cannot take a high rank. 
 
 During the present century, Fort Burgoyne 
 has been constructed on the higher land to the 
 north and west, with the object no doubt of
 
 DOVER CASTLE. 263 
 
 giving additional strength to the other fortifica- 
 tions at Dover, and thus of compelling an 
 invading army either to reduce the place or leave 
 a force of observation to protect its communica- 
 tions. 
 
 At present the castle is a garrison and military 
 storehouse only. Another well besides Harold's 
 has been sunk, but water is raised by steam 
 power. 
 
 Married soldiers' quarters, recreation rooms, 
 and all the modern accessories of barracks, 
 cluster round the remains which still speak to us 
 of bygone ages. 
 
 If there is but little other similarity between 
 the Dover Castle of the early Christian era, and 
 the Dover Castle of 1892 the sounds of discipline 
 and trumpets still echo within its walls. 
 
 This paper cannot lay claim to be original, or to 
 contain anything new, but it is only an attempt to 
 give a few facts upon a large subject deserving of 
 a better hand and more extended treatment.
 
 Abbey, St. Augustine's, 48 
 
 A'Becket, Thomas, the " trans- 
 lation," 102 ; Relics, no, 113; 
 Shrine, 112, 114 
 
 Act of Succession, 185 
 
 Alms box, ancient, 105 
 
 Appledore, William, 138 
 
 Arran, Earl of, 161 
 
 Ayenbite of Inwyt, 193 
 
 Ball, John, 10, 130, 133-134 
 Hampton, Thomas de, 132 
 Battles, Hastings, 5, at Maklstone, 
 
 16 
 
 Bealknass, Sir Robert, 132 
 Bean, Ellen, 12-13 
 Bek, Anthony, Bishop of Durham, 
 
 144-146 
 
 Bertha, Queen, 42-48 
 Boxley Rood of Grace, the, 125 
 Boy, definition of a, 213 
 Brabourne, Lord, 244 
 Bulteel's pamphlet, 242 
 Burley, Sir Simon, 134 
 
 Canterbury, 5-6, 134 
 
 Canterbury, Archbishop of, 134, 
 
 138 ; Cathedral, 46 
 Canterbury Pilgrims, 97 
 Capitation Tax, 131 
 Cathedral of the Old Foundation, 
 
 209 
 
 Celery, etc., introduced, 243 
 Chrism due, 62 
 Christianity, decline of, 39 
 Christmas at Eltham, 148 
 Church or Basilica of Lyminge, 86- 
 
 96 ; Foundation, 87 ; Restored 
 
 by Dunstan, 89 ; Endowed with 
 
 relics, 90 ; Manor House, 91 ; 
 
 Surrendered, 94 ; Ancient 
 
 Charters, 95 
 Church, St. Martin's, 4, 45 ; St. 
 
 Pancras, 47 
 
 Cloth trade, 244 
 Cohham, Lord, 10 
 Coucy, Ingebrand de, 149 
 
 Danes, the, 4-5 
 
 Dancing booth at Greenwich, 173 
 Dark Entry, Legend of, 12 
 Devil, the, at Montindene, 124 
 Dover Castle, 250 ; Roman Post, 
 251 ; Pharos, 251 ; Church of 
 St. Mary, 251 ; Eadbald's 
 College, 252 ; Chaplains, 252 ; 
 Hengist and Horsa, 253 ; Alfred 
 the Great, 253 ; Godwin, 253 ; 
 William I., 254; Knight 
 service, 254 ; Debtor's prison, 
 255 ; Towers, 255-258 ; Gates, 
 
 258 ; the Keep, 258 ; Chapels, 
 
 259 ; Sieges, 259, Wells, 259, 
 263 ; Royal residents, etc. , 260 ; 
 Governors, 261-262 ; Subter- 
 ranean passages, 262 
 
 Dunstan, 89 
 
 Dutch in the Medway, 17 
 
 Elizabeth, Queen, 161 
 Ellis, Dr. A. J., 195 
 Erasmus, 158 
 Essex, Earl of, 162 
 Ethel bert I., 4, 42-48 
 Ethelburga, Queen, 86-89 
 Ferry Chapels, 54 
 
 Fisher, John, 177 ; Early history, 1 77- 
 178; appointed to Rochester, 
 181 ; Defends Catherine, 184; 
 his superstition, 185 ; imprison- 
 ment, 185 ; trial, 186 ; priva- 
 tion, 187 ; execution, 188 
 
 Fleet, revolt in the, 16 
 
 Folkestone Smugglers, 225 
 
 French Invasion, 6 
 
 Froissart and Richard II., 151 
 
 T
 
 266 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Gaunt, John of, 151 
 Gloucester, Duke of, 152 
 Gold, Export of, 225 
 Gravelkind, 254 
 
 Greenwich Fair, 167 ; Abolition, 
 176 
 
 Hales, Sir Robert, 138 
 
 Henry VI., 151 
 
 Henry VIII. (Defender of the 
 Faith), 182-184; A cruel jest 
 of, 189 
 
 Hereford accuses Norfolk, 152 
 
 Historic Kent, I 
 
 Holy Maid of Kent, the, 185 
 
 Hubert de Burgh, 6 
 
 Huguenot Homes in Kent, 228 ; 
 Foreign weavers, 232 ; Laud's 
 action, 234; Places of Worship, 
 234 ; Noted refugees, 235 ; 
 Decline of Weaving, 236 ; re 
 Dover, 238 ; re Sandwich, 240; 
 re Hythe, 243 ; re Cranbrook, 
 245 ; re Faversham, 246 ; re 
 Maidstone, 246 ; re Boughton, 
 248 
 
 Iron, cast, 245 
 
 James II., flight of, 18 
 John, King of France, 149 
 
 Kent, the Fair Maid of, 134, 138 
 
 Kentish dialects, etc., 190 ; 
 Provincial English, 191 ; Court 
 Dialect, 192 ; pronunciation, 
 196 ; curious phrases, 200 ; 
 Rustic vocabulary, 201 ; Pro- 
 verbs, etc., 204 
 
 Kentish Place-Names, 21 ; Deriva- 
 tions, 24-26 ; terminals, 27-31 ; 
 Ancient Ports, 31 ; Romney 
 Marsh, 33 ; Danish derivations, 
 35 ; Anglo-Saxon names in 
 France, 36 
 
 Kentish ships, etc., 218 
 
 King's School, the, Canterbury, 
 206 ; Eminent scholars, 207 ; 
 Head Masters, 210; Celebrities, 
 216 
 
 Knowles, Sir Robert, 140 
 
 Lambarde, William, 115; genealogy 
 
 of, 120; works of, 126 
 Lambeth Palace sacked, 136 
 
 Lanfranc, 90 
 Leland, John, 117 
 Lewis, Rev. John, 193 
 Lollards and Wiclifites, 10, 154 
 London Bridge, 136 
 
 Macomo, 172 
 
 Marriage by proxy, 153 
 
 Martyred Cardinal, the, 177 
 
 Mary, Queen, 161 
 
 Masque on Twelfth-Night, 159 
 
 Mildretha, 88 
 
 Miracles, re A'Becket, 101 
 
 Mitchinson, Rev. John, D.C. L., 213 
 
 Mylner, lakke, 131 
 
 Navarre, Joanna of, 153 
 
 Newton, Sir John, 134 
 
 Paper-chases, 213 
 Pegge, Samuel, 193 
 Penance of Henry II., 100, 106 
 Priest, tragic death of a, 7-9 
 Priestly imposture, 1 1 
 Punishment by Boiling, 185 
 
 Ray, 193 
 
 Reformation, 10-11 
 
 Regulbium (Reculver), 3-4 
 
 Restoration, the, 17 
 
 Revolt of the Villeins, 128 ; 
 Causes, 131 ; Leaders, 133 ; at 
 London, 136; Demands, 138; 
 leave London, 140; St. Alban's, 
 141 ; Essex men, 141 ; Suppres- 
 sion, 142; Parliament on, 142; 
 Royal grace, 143 
 
 Rich, Major General, 162 
 
 Richard II., 135, 137, 138-143 
 
 Richardson's Theatre, 168 ; riot at, 
 174 
 
 Richmond, Margaret, Countess of, 
 179 
 
 Rochester Cathedral, 48 
 
 Roman Remains, etc., 2-3 
 
 Royal Eltham, 144 ; re Building, 
 146 ; royal residents, 147-154 ; 
 Armenia, King of, 151 ; royal 
 births, 147 ; decay, etc., 162- 
 166 
 
 Royalist Rising, A.D. 1648, 15 
 
 Ruined Chapels and Chantries, 51 : 
 St. Katherine, Shorne, 51-54; 
 Bridge Chapel, Rochester, 54- 
 59 ; St. Lawrence de Longsole, 
 59-60 ; St. Margaret, Helle,.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 267 
 
 61-62; St. Mary at .Milton, 
 63; Eslingham Chapel, 60; 
 St. Lawrence, Hailing, 65 ; 
 Dode Chapel, Luclclesdown, 
 65 ; Maplescomb Church, 66 ; 
 Rokesley Church, 67 ; Lulling- 
 stone Church, 68 ; St. Leonard, 
 69 ; S't. John, Chapel of, 70 ; 
 Merston Church, 72 ; Paddles- 
 worth Church, 73 ; St. Mary's 
 Chapel, Swanscomb, 73 ; St. 
 Mary's Chapel, Pern bury, 74 5 
 St. James's Chantry, 75 ; St. 
 Bartholomew's, 75 ; Chapel of 
 Scots Grove, 77 ; St. Cathe- 
 rine, Fawkham, 78 ; Cosenton 
 Chapel, 79 ; Tottington Chapel, 
 80; Cobham Chapel, 80; St. 
 Edmund the Martyr, 82 ; 
 Horsemonden Chantry, 83 ; 
 Maidstone, Chapel of Corpus 
 Christi, 84 ; Dover Round 
 Church, 85 
 
 Savoy, the, burnt, 136 
 
 Saxons, 4 
 
 Shaw, the pantomimist, 170 
 
 Shurland, Sir Robert, his crime, 7-9 
 
 Sigisnuincl, Emperor, 156 
 Skippon, General, 17 
 Smuggling in Kent, 218 
 Smugglers' Nests, 221 ; Anecdote, 
 
 223 
 
 Stable Gate, 45 
 Statutes of Eltham, 161 
 St. Augustine and his Mission, 39 
 St. Gregory, 40, 44 
 Still Christmas, the, 160 
 Straw, Jack, 132, 137 
 
 Taylor, Canon Isaac, on place- 
 names, 21 
 
 Threadmaking, 247 
 Tower, the, seized, 137 
 
 Villeins, league of, 129 ; Sir S, 
 Hurley's bondman, 134 
 
 Wallace, Rev. George, M.A. , 212 
 Walworth, Sir William, 139-140 
 Wat Tyler, 9, 133, 137 ; death of,. 
 
 139-140 
 
 Windsor Castle, building of, 129 
 Wolsey, Cardinal, 158 
 Wombvvell's, Catastrophe at, 171 
 Wyatt's rising, 14
 
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 Trowsdale. 
 
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 Mabel Peacock The Crowle Stone, by the Rev. Geo. S Tyack, B.A. 
 A Roman Arch A Curious Legend, by the Rev. VV Henry Jones 
 Quaint Land Tenures and Customs of the Manor, by T Broadbent 
 Trowsdale, F.R.H.S. Swineshead : The Story of King John's Death, by 
 Edward Lamplough Barton-on-Humber in the Olden Time, by C H 
 Crowder Pirates in the Humber, by Edward Peacock, F.S.A. The 
 Pilgrimage of Grace, by Frederick Ross, F.K.H.S. Horncastle or Winsby 
 Fight, by Edward Lamplough Somersby Manor and Cross, by J G Hall 
 Some Old Lincolnshire Gilds, by the Rev. J Malet Lambert, M.A., LL.D. 
 Somerton Castle and its Royal Captive, by Theo Arthur The 
 Champion, by William Andrews, F.K.H.S. Haxey Hood Bull-Running, 
 by John H Leggott, F.K.H.S. Henry Welby, the Grub Street Hermit, 
 by Theo Arthur The Plague in Alford, 1630, by the Rev. Geo S 
 Tyack, B.A. Kirke White in Lincolnshire, by Alfred Lishman Index. 
 
 Contents of Volume II. : Lincoln Cathedral, by T Tindall Wildridge 
 Lincoln Castle, by E Mansell Sympson, M.D. Tattershall, its Lords, 
 its Castle, and its Church, by E Mansell Sympson, M.D. Bolingbroke 
 Castle, by Tom Robinson, M.D. Ancient Stained Glass at Barton-on- 
 Humber, and the great Earl Beaumont, by T Tindall Wildridge On the 
 Population of Lincolnshire, by Tom Robinson, M.D. Suj>erstitious 
 Beliefs and Customs of Lincolnshire, by the Rev. Wm. Proctor Swaby, D.D. 
 The Legend of Byard's Leap, by the Rev. J Conway Walter 
 Thornton Abbey, by Frederick Ross, F.R.H.S. The Witches of Belvoir, 
 by T Broadbent Trowsdale The Battle of Lincoln, by Edward 
 Lamplough Lincoln Fair, by Edward Lamplough Alford Fight, by the 
 Rev. Geo S Tyack, B.A. Robert de Brunne, by Frederick Ross, F.K.H.S. 
 Dr. Dodd, the Forger, by John T Page Sir Isaac Newton Barton- 
 on-Humber Ferry, by C H Crowder An Eighteenth Century Poet, by 
 the Rev. Alan Cheales, M.A. Lincolnshire a Century Ago Spalding 
 Gentlemen's Society, by Dr. Perry The Great Brass Welkyn of Boston, 
 by William Stevenson The Great Hawthorn Tree of Fish toft Index. 
 
 PRESS OPINION. 
 
 " Mr. Wm. Andrews collects together a series of papers, by various 
 competent hands, on the history, antiquities, and folk-lore of the great 
 eastern county which has borne so conspicuous a part in the past history 
 of England, and produced so many men who have illustrated it. . . A 
 valuable contribution to local history." The Times. 
 
 HULL : WILLIAM ANDREWS & CO., THE HULL PRESS. 
 London : Simphin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd. 
 
 T
 
 Elegantly bound in cloth gilt, demy 8uo., price 7s. 6d. 
 Only 750 copies printed, and each copy numbered. 
 
 one <B00e;r : 
 
 Its History, Folk-Lore, and Memorable Men and 
 
 Women. 
 
 EDITED BY WILLIAM ANDREWS, F.R.H.S., 
 
 Author of "Old-Time Punishments," "Curiosities of 
 the Church," "Old Church Lore." 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Historic Essex, by Thomas Frost Epping Forest : Its History, 
 Customs, and Laws, by Jesse Quail Greenstead Church, by Edward 
 Lamplough The Burial of Harold at Waltham, by William 
 Winters, F.R. H.S. St. Osyth's Priory, by John T Page Colchester in 
 Olden Times, by Joseph W Spurgeon The Siege of Colchester, by 
 Joseph W Spurgeon Colchester : Its Historic Buildings and Famous 
 Men, by Joseph W Spurgeon Essex Tokens, by Thomas Forster 
 Queen Elizabeth at Tilbury : A Glance at Armada Days, by Edward 
 Lamplough The Lawless Court, by the Rev. Geo. S Tyack, B.A. The 
 Dunmow Flitch A Deserted Primitive Village, by G Fredk. Beaumont 
 \Villiam Hunter, the Young Martyr of Brentwood, by John W Odling 
 Fairlop Fair by John W Odling -Thomas Tusser and his "Five 
 Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," by W H Thompson John Ray, 
 Naturalist, by W H Thompson Wanstead House, by John T Page 
 Hopkins, the Witchfinder, by Frederick Ross, F.R. H.S. An Essex Poet, 
 by the Rev. Geo. S Tyack, B.A. Historic Harwich Old Bow Bridge, by 
 John T Page Index. 
 
 PRESS OPINIONS. 
 
 " Readable as well as instructive, and it has an interest for many more 
 than Essex people." The Globe. 
 
 "Good paper, good type, and good illustrations all help to make 
 'Bygone Essex' an exceedingly pleasant and agreeable book." Sala'* 
 Journal. 
 
 ' ' This work will be welcomed by all intelligent explorers of their own 
 country, who cannot fail to regard its ancient monuments and historic 
 localities with renewed interest after perusing it." The Gentlewoman. 
 
 HULL : WILLIAM ANDREWS & CO., THE HULL PRESS. 
 London : Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd.
 
 Only 750 copies printed, and each copy numbered. 
 
 Elegantly bo::n:l in cloth gilt, demy 8vo. , "js. 6d. 
 
 %anca$btre. 
 
 Edited by ERNEST AXON. 
 
 Contents : Historic Lancashire, by Ernest Axon The Religious Life of 
 Lancashire during the Commonwealth, by W A Shaw, M.A., Kersal 
 Moor, by Janet Armytage A Lancaster Worthy (Thomas Covell), by 
 William Hewitson Some Early Manchester Grammar School Boys, by 
 Ernest Axon The Sworn Men of Amounderness, by Lieut. -Col. Henry 
 Fishwick, F.S.A. Lancashire Sundials, by William E A Axon, M.B.S.L. 
 The Plague in Liverpool, by J Cooper Morley The Old Dated Bell at 
 Claughton, by Robert Langton, F.R.H.S. The Children of Tim Bobbin, by 
 Ernest Axon The " Black Art " at Bolton An Infant Prodigy in 1679, 
 by Arthur W Croxton Wife Desertion in the Olden Times The Colquitt 
 Family of Liverpool Some Old Lancashire Punishments Bury Simnels 
 Eccles Wakes, by H Cottam Furness Abbey Colonel Rosworm and the 
 Siege of Manchester, by George C Yates, F.S.A. Poems of Lancashire 
 Places, by William E A Axon, M.TC.S.I.,. Father Arrowsmith's Hand, by 
 Rush worth Armytage Index Illustrated. 
 
 "A work of considerable historical and archaeological interest. "- 
 Liverpool Daily Poxt. 
 
 ' ' The book is handsomely got up. " Manchester Guardian. 
 
 "In the collection of papers forming this highly interesting volume, 
 many antiquarian and historical matters connected with the County 
 Palatine are dealt with, and at least a dozen authors have contributed 
 essays rich in curious facts. . . All the articles are good, and should 
 make this volume a favourite among the historical students of the County 
 Palatine. " Liverpool Mercury. 
 
 " The book is excellently printed and bound." Library Review. 
 
 " ' Bygone Lancashire' is a welcome addition to the literature of the 
 County, and we echo the hope expressed by the editor that its appearance 
 ' may encourage the local patriotism which is such a striking character- 
 istic of the Lancashii-e Lad.' It may be added that the work, which 
 contains a few illustrations, is well got up, and does credit to the 
 publishers. " Manchester Courier. 
 
 " This is another of those clearly-printed, well-covered, readable, 
 accurate, and entertaining ' Bygone ' volumes that come forth with 
 pleasant frequency from the Andrews' press, Hull. . . The volume is 
 sure of a ready sale among the more intelligent of the ' Lancashire Lads.' " 
 Antiquary. 
 
 HULL : WILLIAM ANDREWS & CO., THE HULL PRESS. 
 London : Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd,
 
 Elegantly bound in cloth gilt, demy Svo., price 'js. 6d. 
 
 Only 500 copies printed, and each copy numbered. 
 
 Its History, Folk-Lore, and Memorable Men and Women. 
 Edited by WILL/AM /HI/DREWS, F.R.H.S., 
 
 Author of "OLD-TIME PUNISHMENTS," "CURIOSITIES OF THE CHURCH," 
 "OLD CHURCH LORE." 
 
 Contents : Historic Northamptonshire, by Thomas Frost The Eleanor 
 Crosses, by the Rev. Geo. S Tyack, B. A. Fotheringhay : Past and Present, 
 by Mrs. l)empsey The Battle of Naseby, by Edward Lam plough The 
 Cottage Countess The Charnel House at Rothwell, by Edward Chamber- 
 lain The Gunpowder Plot, by John T Page Earls Barton Church, by 
 T Tindall Wildridge Old Fairs, by William Sharman Witches and 
 Witchcraft, by Eugene Teesdale The City of Peterborough, by Frederick 
 Ross, F.R.H.S. The English Founders of the Washington Family of 
 America, by Thomas Frost Ann Brad street, the Earliest American 
 Poetess -Liber Custumarum, Villa; Northamptonia?, by Christopher A. 
 Markham, F.S. A. Thomas Britton, the Musical Small-Coal Man, by E E 
 Cohen Old Scarlett, the Peterborough Sexton Accounts of Towcester 
 Constables, by John Nicholson Miserere Shoemaker of Wellingborough, 
 by T Tindall Wildridge Sir Thomas Tresham and his Buildings, by John 
 T Page Northamptonshire Folk-Lore, by John Nicholson Northampton- 
 shire Proverbs An Ancient Hospital, by the Rev. I W T odhams, M.A. 
 A carefully prepared Index Illustrations. 
 
 PRESS OPINIONS. 
 
 "The volume is very interesting, and for those who dwell in the county, 
 or whose tastes lead them to explore its history, it will have especial 
 attraction. " Publishers' Circular. 
 
 "A welcome contribution to the literature of the county." North- 
 ampton Herald. 
 
 " The book is published in a form that is well worthy of the high 
 standard that the Hull Press has achieved, and we can congratulate Mr. 
 Andrews on adding one more stone to the fabric of the bygone history of 
 the Midlands. " Hull Daily 'News. 
 
 " An interesting volume, as well as being got up in exceptionally good 
 style. The matter is well chosen and well rendered, so that the book is 
 not only a thing of beauty, but also a veritable treasure-house of reliable 
 and entertaining articles." Beverley Independent. 
 
 " A welcome addition to the shelves of anyone interested in the 
 antiquities of Northamptonshire, while even those who are not, will be 
 able to pleasantly while away many odd half-hours by perusing its pages." 
 Kettering Leader. 
 
 HULL : WILLIAM ANDREWS & CO., THE HULL PRESS. 
 : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT, & Co., LTD,
 
 Elegantly bound in cloth gilt, demy 8uo., price 7s. 6d. 
 
 IDerb^sbire: 
 
 Its History, Romance, Folk-Lore, Curious 
 Customs, etc. 
 
 EDITED BY WILLIAM ANDREWS, F.R.H.S. 
 
 T~\ERBY SHIRE is rich in historical associations of an out-of-the-way 
 *-' character. In the pages of " Bygone Derbyshire " are presented 
 in a readable, and at the same time in a scholar-like style, papers, pro- 
 fusely illustrated, bearing on such subjects as the history of the county, 
 ancient castles, monumental brasses, gleanings from parochial records, 
 old church lore, family romance, traditions, curious customs, witchcraft 
 well-dressing, old-time sports, etc., etc. 
 
 Contents : Historic Derbyshire On an Early Christian Tomb at Wirks- 
 worth Curious Derbyshire Lead-Mining Customs The Place-Nam 
 Derby Duffleld Castle Haddon Hall The Romance of Haddon Hall 
 The Ordeal of Touch The Monumental Brasses at Tideswell Bolsover 
 Castle The Lamp of St. Helen Peveril Castle Samuel Slater, the 
 Father of the American Cotton Manufacture The Bakewell Witches 
 Mary Queen of Scots in Derbyshire The Babington Conspiracy Eyam 
 and its Sad Memories Well-Dressing Old-Time Football After Thirty 
 Years ; An Incident of the Civil War Derbyshire and the '45 Bess of 
 Hardwick Shadows of Romance Index. 
 
 -^'- PRESS OPINIONS, -i^- 
 
 "' Bygone Derbyshire ' is a valuable and interesting contribution to 
 local history and archaeology." The Times. 
 
 " The volume is pleasant reading of a most attractive county. 1 ' Daily 
 Teler/raph. 
 
 "A very interesting and welcome addition to the literature of Derby 
 shire." Derbyshire Courier. 
 
 "Mr. Andrews is to be warmly complimented on the all-round 
 excellence of his work, which forms a valuable addition to Derbyshire 
 literature." Alfreton Journal. 
 
 " A valuable addition to any library." Derbyshire Times. 
 
 HULL : WILLIAM ANDREWS & CO., THE HULL PRESS. 
 LONDON : SIMPKIN', MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT, & Co., LTD.
 
 Elegantly bound in cloth gilt, demy 8uo., price 7s. 6d. 
 
 Begone ; %on6on, 
 
 By FREDERICK ROSS, F.R.H.S., 
 
 Author of "Yorkshire Family Romance," "Legendary 
 Yorkshire," etc. 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 The Walls and Gates Episodes in the Annals of Cheapside Bishops- 
 gate Street Within arid Without Aldersgate Street and St. Martin's-le- 
 Grand Old Broad Street Chaucer and the Tabard The Priory of the 
 Holy Trinity, Aldgate Convent of the Sisters Minoresses of the Order 
 of St. Clare, Aldgate The Abbey of St. Mary of Graces, or East Minster 
 The Barons Fitzwalter of Baynard's Castle Sir Nicholas Brember, 
 Knight, Lord Mayor of London An Olden Time Bishop of London : 
 Robert de Braybrook A Brave Old London Bishop : Fulco Basset An 
 Old London Diarist Index. 
 
 PRESS OPINIONS. 
 
 " Mr. Ross deals with the chief episodes in the history of London 
 architecture, and with existing London antiquities in a garrulous, genial 
 spirit, which renders his book generally attractive." The Times. 
 
 "Beyond all doubt a more interesting and withal informing volume 
 than ' Bygone London ' it has not been our good fortune to come across 
 for many a long day." The City 
 
 PRICE ONE SHILLING. 
 
 In the Temple. 
 
 In the Temple The Knights Templars The Devil's Own Christmas in 
 the Temple Howto become a Templar On Keeping Terms Call Parties. 
 
 ' Amusing and interesting sketches." Law Time*. 
 
 " Pleasant gossip about the barristers' quarter." Gentleiroman. 
 
 " A very pleasant little volume." Globe. 
 
 " An entertaining little book." Manchester Examiner. 
 
 HULL: WILLIAM ANDREWS & CO., THE HULL PRESS. 
 London : Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd.
 
 Elegantly bound in cloth gilt, demy 8vo,, 6s. 
 
 Legendary + Cjorkshire. 
 
 By FREDERICK ROSS, F.R.H.8. 
 
 Content* : The Enchanted Cave The Doomed City The Worm of 
 Xunnington The Devil's Arrows The Giant Road Maker of Mulgrave 
 The Virgin's Head of Halifax The Dead Arm of St. Oswald the King 
 The Translation of St. Hilda A Miracle of St. John The Beatified 
 Sisters -The Dragon of Wantley The Miracles and Ghost of Watton 
 The Murdered Hermit of Eskdale The Calverley Ghost- The Bewitched 
 House of Waketield. 
 
 PRESS OPINIONS. 
 
 Beverley Recorder says " It is a work of lasting interest, and cannot 
 fail to delight the reader." 
 
 Driffield Obxereer says : The history and the literature of our county 
 are now receiving marked attention, and Mr. Andrews merits the support 
 of the public for the production of this and the other interesting volumes 
 he has issued. We cannot speak too highly of this volume, the printing, 
 the paper, and the binding being faultless." 
 
 Elegantly bound in cloth gilt, demy 8vo. , 6s. 
 
 UJorhsbfve jfamil^ IRomance. 
 
 By FREDERICK ROSS, F.R.H.S. 
 
 Content* : The Synod of Streoneshalh The Doomed Heir of Osmother- 
 ley St. Eadwine, The Royal Martyr The Viceroy Siward Phases in the 
 Life of a Political Martyr The Murderer's Bride The Earldom of W'iltes 
 Blackfaced Clifford The Shepherd Lord The Felons of Ilkley The 
 Ingilby Boar's Head The Eland Tragedy The Plumpton Marriage The 
 Topcliffe Insurrection Burning of Cottingham Castle The Alum Workers 
 The Maiden of Marblehead Rise of the House of Phipps The Traitor 
 Governor of Hull. 
 
 PRESS OPINIONS. 
 
 " The grasp and thoroughness of the writer is evident in every page, 
 and the book forms a valuable addition to the literature of the North 
 Country. " Gentlewoman. 
 
 " Many will welcome this work." Yorkshire Poxt. 
 
 HULL : WILLIAM ANDREWS & CO., THE HULL PRESS. 
 London : Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd.
 
 El&jantly bound in doth (/lit, demy Svo. , price 6. 
 
 yorkshire Battles. 
 
 By EDWARD LAMPLOUGH. 
 
 Contents: Winwidfield, etc. Battle of Stamford Bridge After Stam- 
 ford Bridge Battle of the Standard After the Battle of the Standard 
 Battle of Myton Meadows Battle of Boroughbridge Battle of Byland 
 Abbey In the Days of Edward III. and Richard II. Battle of Bramham 
 Moor Battle of Sandal Battle of Towton Yorkshire under the Tudors 
 Battle of Tadcaster Battle of Leeds Battle of Wakefield Battle of 
 Adwalton Moor Battle of Hull Battle of Selby Battle of Marston 
 Moor Battle of Brunnanburgh Fight off Flamborough Head Index. 
 PRESS OPINIONS. 
 
 " A remarkably handsome volume, typographically equal to the best 
 productions of any European capital." North British Daily Mail. 
 
 "An important work." Becerley Independent. 
 
 " Does great credit to the new lirm of book publishers." Yorkshire 
 County Magazine. 
 
 " A beautifully printed volume." Halifax Courier. 
 
 Cloth, 4*. 
 
 yorkshire in Olden Times. 
 
 Edited by WILLIAM ANDREWS, F.R.H.s. 
 
 Content*: An Outline History of Yorkshire, by Thomas Frost The 
 Cow-'Devil : A Legend of Craven, by William Brockie The First Anglo- 
 Saxon Poet, by John H Leggott, F.R.H.S The Battle of Brunnanburgh, 
 by Frederick Ross, F.R.H.S Old Customs of York, by George Benson 
 Elizabethan Gleanings, by Aaron Watson The Fight for the Hornsea 
 Fishery, by T Tindall Wildridge Folk Assemblies, by John Nicholson 
 Quaint Gleanings from the Parish Register-Chest of Kirkby Wharfe, 
 by the Rev Richard Wilton, M.A. The Wakefield Mysteries, by William 
 Henry Hudson- A Biographical Romance, by William Andrews, F.R.H.S. 
 Some Sera ps and Shreds of Yorkshire Superstitions, by W Sydney, F.R.S.L. 
 The Salvation of Holderness, by Frederick Ross, F.R.H.S. Yorkshire 
 Fairs and Festivals, by Thomas Frost James Nayler, the Mad Quaker 
 who claimed to be the Messiah, by William Andrews, F.R.H.S Duke 
 Richard's Doom : A Legend of Sandal Castle, by Edward Lamplough 
 Obsolete Industries of the East Riding, by John Nicholson -Bolton 
 Abbey: Its History and Legends, by Alfred Chambei'lain, B.A. To 
 Bolton Abbey, by the Rev E G Charlesworth. 
 PRESS OPINION. 
 
 "The work consists of a series of articles contributed by various 
 authors, and it thus has the merit of bringing together much special 
 knowledge from a great number of sources. It is an entertaining 
 volume, full of interest for the general reader, as well as for the learned 
 and curious." Shields Daily Gazette. 
 
 HULL: WILLIAM ANDREWS & CO., THE HULL PRESS. 
 LONDON : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT, & Co., LTD.
 
 SECOND EDITION. Bound in cloth gilt, demy 800. 6s 
 
 of t$e 
 
 Studies of Curious Customs, Services, and Records, 
 By WILLIAM ANDREWS, F.R.H.S., 
 
 AUTHOR OF "HISTORIC ROMANCE," "FAMOUS FROSTS AND 
 J/K.OST FAIRS," " HISTORIC YORKSHIRE," ETC. 
 
 CONTENTS: 
 
 Early Religious Plays : being: the Story of the English Stage in 
 its Church Cradle Days The Caistor Gad-Whip Manorial 
 Service Strange Serpent Stories Church Ales Rush-Bearing 
 Fish in Lent Concerning Doles Church Scrambling Chari- 
 ties Briefs Bells and Beacons for Travellers by Night Hour 
 Glasses in Churches Chained Books in Churches Funeral 
 Effigies Torchlight Burials Simple Memorials of the Early 
 Dead The Romance of Parish Registers Dog Whippers and 
 Sluggard Wakers Odd Items from Old Accounts A carefully 
 compiled Index. 
 
 I LLU 
 
 Ipress pinions. 
 
 " A volume both entertaining and instructive, throwing much light on the manners 
 and customs of bygone generations of Churchmen, and will be read to-day with iuL.cli 
 interest." ,\~i~;('&ery House Magazine. 
 
 "An extremely interesting volume." North. British Daily Mail. 
 "A work of lasting interest." Hull Examiner. 
 
 ' The reader will find much in this book to interest, instruct, and amuse." Home 
 Ch mes. 
 
 ' We feel sure that many will feel grateful to Mr. Andrews for having produced such 
 sn nteresting book." The Antiquary. 
 
 ' A volume of great research and striking interest." The Bookbuyer (New York). 
 "A valuable book." Literary World (Boston, U.S.A.). 
 " An admirable book." Sheffield Independent. 
 
 "An interesting, handsomely got up volume. . . , Mr. Andrews is always chatty 
 and expert in making a paper on a dry subject exceedingly readable." Newcastle Courant 
 
 " Mr. William Andrews' new book, 'Curiosities of the Church,' adds another to the 
 series by which he has done so much to popularise antiquarian studies. . . . The book, 
 it should be added, has some quaint illustrations, and its rich matter is made available fot 
 reference by a full and carofvillv compiled index." Scotsman. 
 
 Hull : William Andrews & Co., The Hull Press. 
 London : Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd.
 
 Elegantly bound in cloth gilt, demy 8uo., price Gs. 
 
 Bore, 
 
 By WILLIAM ANDREWS, F.R.H.S., 
 
 Author of " Curiosities of the Church" "Old-Time Punishments^ 
 "Historic Romance" etc. 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 The Right of Sanctuary The Romance of Trial A Fight 
 between the Mayor of Hull and the Archbishop of 
 York Chapels on Bridges Charter Horns The Old 
 English Sunday The Easter Sepulchre St. Paul's 
 Cross Cheapside Cross The Biddenden Maids Charity 
 Plagues and Pestilences A King Curing an Abbot 
 of Indigestion The Services and Customs of Royal 
 Oak Day Marrying in a White Sheet Marrying under 
 the Gallows Kissing the Bride Hot Ale at Weddings 
 Marrying Children The Passing Bell Concerning 
 Coffins The Curfew Bell Curious Symbols of the Saints 
 Acrobats on Steeples A carefully-prepared Index. 
 i I_LU STHAT ED 
 
 PRESS OPINIONS.-'- 
 
 " A worthy work on a deeply interesting subject. . . . Wo 
 commend this book strongly. " European Mail. 
 
 " An interesting volume." The Scotsman. 
 
 "Contains much that will interest and instruct." Glawjow 
 Jferald. 
 
 " The author has produced a book which is at once entertaining 
 and valuable, and which is also entitled to unstinted praise on the 
 ground of its admirable printing and binding." Shitlds Daily Gazette. 
 
 " Mr. Andrews' book does not contain a dull page. . . . 
 Deserves to meet with a very warm welcome." Yorkshire Post. 
 
 "Mr. Andrews, in 'Old Church Lore,' makes the musty 
 parchments and records he has consulted redolent with life and 
 actuality, and has added to his works a most interesting volume, 
 which, written in a light and easy narrative style, is anything but 
 of the ' dry -as-dust ' order. The book is handsomely got up, being 
 both bound and printed in an artistic fashion." Northern l)uiiy 
 
 Hull : William Andrews & Co., The Hull Press. 
 London : Simphin, Marshal/, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd.
 
 Fcap 4to. Bevelled boards, gilt tops. . Price 4s. 
 
 jf amous df rosts anb jfrost Jfairs 
 in <5reat Britain. 
 
 Chronicled from the Earliest to the Present Time. 
 BY WILLIAM ANDREWS, F.R.H.S. 
 
 This work furnishes a carefully prepared account of all the great Frosts 
 occurring in this country from A. D. 134 to 1887. The numerous Frost 
 Fairs on the Thames are fully described, and illustrated with quaint 
 woodcuts, and several old ballads relating to the subject are reproduced. 
 It is tastefully printed and elegantly bound. 
 
 PRESS OPINIONS. 
 
 " The work is thoroughly well written, it is careful in its facts, and may 
 be pronounced exhaustive on the subject. Illustrations are given of 
 several frost fairs on the Thames, and as a trustworthy record this volume 
 should be in every good library. The usefulness of the work is much 
 enhanced by a good index." Public Opinion. 
 
 " A very interesting volume."- Northern Daily Telegraph. 
 
 " A great deal of curious and valuable information is contained in these 
 pages. ... A comely volume." Literary World. 
 
 " The work from first to last is a most attractive one, and the arts alike 
 of printer and binder have been brought into one to give it a pleasing 
 form." Wakefield Free Press. 
 
 ' ' An interesting and valuable work. " West Middlesex Times. 
 " Not likely to fail in interest." Manchester Guardian. 
 " The book is beautifully got up."J3arnsley Independent. 
 
 ' ' This chronology has been a task demanding extensive research and 
 considerable labour and patience, and Mr. Andrews is to be heartily con- 
 gratulated on the result." Derby Daily Gazette. 
 
 " A volume of much interest and great importance." Eotherham 
 Advertiser. 
 
 One hundred copies only printed for sale, and each copy numbered. 
 
 Evolution of Brama* 
 
 BY SIDNEY W. CLARKE. 
 
 " A carefully written work. . . . It is a readable contribution to 
 dramatic history." The Critic. 
 
 HULL : WILLIAM ANDREWS & CO., THE HULL PRESS. 
 London : Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd.
 
 Price 6s. Demy 8vo. Elegantly bound cloth gilt. 
 
 Qttonf j! in a 
 
 A Woman's Wanderings in Northern India. 
 BY CHRISTINA S. BREMNER. 
 
 Contents : The Ascent from the Plains to the Hills Kasauli and its 
 Amusements Theories on Heat Simla, the Queen of the Hill Stations 
 Starting Alone for the Interior In Bussahir State The Religious Festival 
 at Pangay On Congress On the Growing Poverty of India. 
 
 PRESS OPINIONS. 
 
 " The author of a ' Month in a Dandi ' has a facile pen, and is evidently 
 a shrewd observer. Her book differs from many belonging to the same 
 class by reason of its freshness, its spontaneity, and its abundance of 
 interesting detail. Moreover, the book is written with a purpose. ' If by 
 perusing these pages the reader obtains a clearer view of England's 
 attitude to her great dependency, if his prepossessions against ' black 
 men ' and the ' poor heathen ' should melt away in any degree, if the 
 assumption that what is good for England must necessarily be so for 
 India receives a slight shake, the writer will feel rewarded.' To these 
 conclusions one is almost certain to come when the experiences of Miss 
 Bremner's ' Month in a Dandi ' are recalled. There would be no end to 
 our quotations were we to reproduce all the passages we have marked as 
 being interesting. Miss Bremner is always in good spirits, and writes 
 with ease, and evidently con amore." Birmingham Daily Gazette. 
 
 " Miss Bremner's book describes a woman's wanderings in Northern 
 India, and it is written from adequate knowledge, with shrewd discern- 
 ment, and a pleasing amount of vivacity." Speaker. 
 
 " ' A Month in a Dandi ' is full of instruction. It shows a great deal of 
 ability and determination to express truths, even if they be unpalatable. 
 The chapters on the vexed questions of Baboo culture and Indian 
 Congress are well worth reading." -Manchester Guardian. 
 
 " Miss Bremner's style is chastened, for the most part humorous, faithful 
 to detail, and oftentimes polished to literary excellence. The earlier 
 chapters are full of raciness and agreeable personality. Hull Daily Mail. 
 
 " ' A Month in a Dandi ' describes the writer's wanderings in Northern 
 India, following upon a shrewdly observant account of the seamy side of 
 Anglo-Indian Society. The subject throughout is approached from a 
 political economist's point of view. The chapter on the growing poverty 
 of India sounds a warning note." Gentlewoman. 
 
 " The author of a ' Month in a Dandi ' is evidently a keen observer of 
 men and things, and we know that her opinion is shared by many of our 
 countrymen who have had a much larger experience of India and Indian 
 affairs than herself. The book is full of the most exquisite word pictures, 
 pictures that are full of light, beauty, and grace, but, unfortunately, some 
 of them have more shade than we care to see ; but, doubtless, Miss 
 Bremner's treatment is correct and life-like." Hull Daily News. 
 
 HULL : WILLIAM ANDREWS & CO., THE HULL PRESS. 
 London : Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd.
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 
 
 Los Angeles 
 This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. 
 
 DEC 3 1 1952 
 
 Form L9-42wi~8,'49(B5573)444
 
 DA Stead - 
 
 -570 Bygonu Kent, 
 
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 DEC 3 1 195b" 
 
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 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL UBRARY FACILIT 
 
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