THE LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA THE GASTRONOMY COLLECTION OF GEORGE HOLL AGRIC. LIBRARY THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE \J X SIX VOLUMES) VOLUMB I TREATING OF AMERICAN VEGETABLES, AND ALL ALIMENTARY PLANTS, ROOTS AND SEEDS. Designed for the Use of Families, Hotels and Restaurants BY JULES ARTHUR HARDER CHEF DE CUISINE, PALACE HOTEL SAN FKANCISCO 1885 Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1885, by JULES ABTHUB HARDER, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. indication. A friendship of many years' duration, and an appreciation of his kindly and generous disposition, as well as of his cultivated taste, impel me to dedicate THESE VOLUMES ALEXANDER DUMAS SHARON", ESQUIRE Notable among the whole-souled Californians who have kept step with the spirit and progress of the age. AGRIC. LIBRARY PREFACE. '' What ! " the reader may exclaim "Another book on cookery ! Have we not Careme and Francatelli, Yatel and Soyer, Ude and Gouffe, Miss Acton and Mrs. Beeton, Meg Dodds and Mrs. Hale, and scores of other authorities on the same subject ? Must every cook be an author, and we be asked to read his book, as well as to eat of the dishes he prepares?" Gentle reader, it is to anticipate this possible state of mind, and to answer these probable questions, that this explanatory preface is submitted. Many a dish is cooked that is not worth the time and trouble, even by an ordinarily edu- cated palate, given to its discussion, and many a book written especially on the subject of Cookery the reading of which is worse than time wasted. There have been innumerable Cook Books for popular use published, I grant you ; but if you ask nine out of ten persons who consult them, they will tell you they become more and more perplexed as they attempt to follow their guidance. The housekeeper will confess she has been led into errors by their vague recipes, injurious to the family health, and, at the same time, expensive to the family purse. It is to dissipate this fog enveloping the literature of the kitchen that the publication of the BOOK OF AMERICAN PRACTICAL COOKERY is undertaken. The author claims that the work is the result of a lifetime of study, constant observa- tion, and practical experience in the best culinary establishments of both Continents. He, therefore, brings to his task a thorough knowledge of the subject, and asserts, fearless of successful contra- diction, that the result of his labors will be the only competent, treatise applying culinary science especially to the material condi- tions of this country ever written. He intends it for a trustworthy guide to all what to eat and drink, and what to avoid. VI PKEFACE. In pursuance of the plan laid down, lie proposes to embrace the whole list of food articles, their selection, treatment, and best method of preparing them for the table, showing how the utmost value can be obtained from every edible designed by the Almighty for the comfort and nourishment of mankind. It is due to the intelligence of the present age that there should no longer be room for the old sneer of the dyspeptic cynic: " God sends the material,, but the Devil sends cooks." To accomplish this important object will require at least six volumes. Marie Antoine Careme, the great French cook, who lived between the years 1784 and 1833, and who was called the "regen- erator of cookery," took twelve volumes to give Europe of his day the information which the author of the present series proposes to give America of the present, in six. Each volume of the AMERICAN PRACTICAL COOKERY series will be devoted to a leading food staple. This, the first volume, deals with vegetables and all alimentary plants, roots, and seeds grown on the American continent, with full remarks of the best varieties, their mode of cultivation, cooking, dishing, and other matters of interest connected with this branch of the culinary art one, by the w r ay, of no small importance, but to which generally scant attention is paid by the household, and even by the club and hotel, cook. It comes quite in place here to give a few cursory hints on the subject-matter more definitely and precisely stated in the body of this volume. In preparing all alimentary plants for the table, the best, freshest, and those in season, should always be chosen. Stale or decayed vegetables, or those that have been overheated in pack- ing, or bruised in transportation, are unwholesome. Avoid them if you value your health. Preserved vegetables should not be used for the table, if they can be possibly declined. Where their use cannot be avoided, be careful to select those put up at creditable establishments, with the name of the proprietor or company, and the quality of the goods marked plainly on the package. Often flashy and picturesque labels conceal germs of disease, in the shape of imperfectly preserved vegetables, sufficient to cause an epidemic. Vegetables should only be freely eaten in the spring, because most kinds are then seasonable, and consequently wholesome and nutri- tious. Some of the few fall varieties are improved by light frosts. PKEFACE. yii Vegetables forced in hot-houses are not as good as those grown in the open air, and subjected to ordinary natural conditions. The variety of climate with which the United States is blessed, promotes the growth of every variety of fruit and vegetable known in the world, and the facilities for transportation put nearly every section of our country on the same footing, so far as the enjoyment at their best of the products of each is concerned. In cooking vegetables, good pure water is essential. To cook green vegetables properly, they should be put into a vessel while the water, is boiling the pot remaining uncovered. By this means they will retain their natural color. Vegetables can be served with each course, or alone, before or after the roast. It is better that they precede the roast, as the appetite is thereby improved for the course that follows. Too many vegetables should not be served with a dinner. They ought to be selected with care according to the course they accompany. These hints, although general, will serve a good purpose in awakening attention. In conclusion, the author may, without egotism, again state, that he feels confident in his ability to make this series on AMERICAN PRACTICAL COOKERY a standard work, because he is practically acquainted with the details of every branch on which he writes, and, at the same time, familiar with the broader requirements of the culinary profession. A chief cook, besides being versed in the technique of the kitchen, should also be a good judge of the kinds, qualities and uses of every dietetic article. As the old Greek comic poet Dionysius, says: " To roast some beef, to carve with neatness, To blow up sauces, and to blow the fire, Is anybody's task; he who does this Is but a seasoner and a broth-maker. A cook is quite another thing. His mind Must comprehend all facts and circumstances, Where is the place, and what the time of supper, Who are the guests, and who the entertainer, What fish he ought to buy, and where he ought to buy it," etc. The author does not expect to realize a fortune by this publica- tion. The work is, in a degree, a labor of love, prompted as much by a desire to benefit the culinary art, as by any other feeling. But Till PREFACE. though his reward may not reach the munificent one of Antony's cook, who received a city for his skill in arranging a Cleopatra ban- quet, he feels assured at least of the gratitude of all those who wish to intelligently enjoy the pleasures of the table, and of the hearty appreciation of his fellow-workers in the important field of culinary science. J. A. H. NOTE. By The entire work on "AMERICAN PRACTICAL COOKERY," now in course of preparation by Mr. Harder, will consist of six volumes, each devoted to a particular article of food soups, fish, flesh, fowl, farinace, sauces, conserves, liqueurs, &c. and each treated in the same thoroughly exhaustive manner exemplified in this, the first of the series. Prefixed, is a glossary of such technical terms and phrases as occur in the text of this volume, and which the general reader may have need to consult. A copious index will also facilitate reference to the different details of the subjects treated. Due notice will be given of the appearance of Volume II of the series. INDEX TO ARTICLES. ENGLISH. Alecost 134 Alexanders 1 Alkekengi 345 Allspice 5 A mbrosia '..... 1 Angelica 2 Anise 3 Aromatic Herbs 4 Aromatic Nigelle 5 Arrow-Boot Plant 193 Artichoke 6 Asparagus 18 Asparagus Bean 26 Balm 26 Balm-mint 27 Barley 27 Basil, Sweet 29 Bay Leaves (Common) 30 Bay Leaves (Larustine) ..... 30 Beans 30 Beets 47 Bene 51 Black Salsify 321 Boletus (Esculent) 52 Borage 53 Borecole 176 Briar Leaves 53 Brocoli 53 Brookline 55 Brussels Sprouts 55 Buck's-horn . 57 Buckwheat 57 Bugloss 59 Burnet 59 Cabbage 60 Calabash 75 Calamint 75 Cantaloupe 75 Capers 78 Capillary 78 Caraway . : 79 Cardoon 79 Carrot 83 Caterpillar 89 Catnip 89 Catsup 89 Cauliflower 90 Celeriac 94 Celery 97 Centaury 105 Cepes 208 Chamomile 105 Chervil 106 Chestnut 106 Chick Pea 108 Chickling Wetch 109 Chicoree 157 Chiccory 109 Chinese Spinach 109 Chinese Yam, or Potato 110 Chives ,. 110 Chives (Common) Ill Chufa Ill Cicely, Sweet 112 Cinnamon . 112 Clary 112 INDEX TO ARTICLES. Clavaria 113 Cloves 113 Cocks-head, Plantain 57 Cocoa 113 Coffee 116 Colt' s-f oot (Common) .'....,. 119 Common Gourds 75 Coquelicot 120 Coriander 120 Corn 122 Corn Poppy 120 Corn Salad 121 Cos Lettuce 133 Costmary 134 Couch Grass 133 Cranberry 134 Cress (Garden) 136 Cress (Pepper) 135 Cress, (Water) 136 Cuckoo-flower Cress 145 Cucumber 137 Cumin 145 Curcuma 373 Curry 145 Dandelion 146 Diet Drinks 147 Dill 147 Earth Nut Ill Egg Plant 151 Egyptian Cucumber 156 Egyptian Pea 108 Elderberries 156 Elecampane 157 Endive 157 Eschalot 326 Essences 165 Extracts 165 Farina 160 Fecula 163 Fennel (Sweet) 164 Flavors 165 Flour 165 Garbure 166 Garlic . . 166 Gherkin 167 Ginger 167 Globe Cucumber 168 Goose-foot 168 Graham Flour 169 Green Peppers 253 Gumbo 223 Herbs 169 Hoarhouud 173 Hollyhock 171 Hoosung 171 Hops 171 Horse-Eadish 173 Hyssop 175 Indian Star Anise-seed 175 Iris Boot 239 Japan Pea 175 Jasmine 176 Jerusalem Artichokes 17 Juniper 176 Kale 176 Kohl-Rabi 380 Lamb Lettuce 121 Laurel Leaves (Common) 30 Laurel Leaves (Larustine) ... 30 Lavender 178 Leek 178 Lens 180 Lentil 180 Lettuce 182 Licorice 189 Lima Beans 189 Lime Tree 191 Linden Tree 191 Lovage 191 Lupine 191 Mace 192 Madras Kadish 192 Mallow (Curled leaved) 193 Manioca 351 Maranta 193 Marjoram 194 Marsh Mallow 195 Medical Herbs.. 4 . INDEX TO ARTICLES. Mellilot 196 Mint 196 Morel 197 Mountain Spinach 237 Mullein 199 Mullen 199 Mushrooms 199 Muskmelon 211 Mustard 215 Nasturtium 217 Nettle 218 New Zealand Spinach 219 Nutmeg, 219 Oak(commonwallGermander) 220 Oats 221 Okra 223 Onions 225 Oosung 171 Orach 237 Orris 239 Oxalis 239 Oyster Plant 316 Pak-choi 240 Palmate leaved Rhubarb .... 240 Palm Cabbage 240 Parsley 241 Parsnips 242 Patience 244 Peanuts 245 Peas 246 Pennyroyal 253 Pepper 253 Pepper Grass. 135 Peppermint 258 Persian Melons 75 Pickles 259 Picridium 260 Pigeon Berry 260 Pi-Tsai 259 Poke 260 Poppy 261 Portugal Cabbage 261 Potatoes 262 Pot Herbs . . 4 Pumpkin 281 Purslain 283 Radish 283 Rampion 288 Rampion or Primrose 289 Rape 289 Red Cabbage 290 Rhubarb 290 Rice 293 Rocambole 308 Rocket 308 Romaine 133 Rose Mallow 171 Rosemary 309 Rue 310 Russian Turnip 310 Ruta Baga 310 Rye 311 Saffron , 312 Sage 313 Sago 314 Salad Garnitures 316 Salep 318 Salsify 316 Salt 319 Saltpeter 319 Samphire 319 Savory 320 Savoy Cabbage 321 Scorzonara 321 Scurvy Grass 322 Sea Beet 322 Sea Fennel 319 Sea Kale 323 Sea Kale Beet 350 Semoule 324 Shallot 326 Shepherd's Purse 327 Sieva 328 Skirret 328 Small Lima Bean 328 Snake Cucumber 329 Sorrel 329 Southerwood. . . 332 Xll INDEX TO ARTICLES. Spanish Lentil 109 .Spanish Oyster Plant 333 Spearmint 333 Speedwell 55 Spices 334 Spinach 336 Spinach (Chinese) 109 Spinnage 336 Squash 339 Strawberry Tomato 345 Succory 109 -Swedish Turnip 310 Sweet Cicely 112 Sweet Fennel 164 Sweet Potatoes 346 Sweet Scented Chervil 112 Swiss Chard 350 Tansy 350 Tapioca . . 351 Tare '. 401 Tarragon 352 Tea 352 Thyme 355 Tisanes 147 Tomato... . 355 Tonka Bean 368 Truffles 368 Tuberous Rooted Chickling Wetch, orPea 372 Tuberous Rooted Wood Sorrel 239 Turmeric 373 Turnip 373 Turnip Cabbage 380 Turnip Booted Celery 94 Turnip Rooted Chervil 382 Unicorn Boot 382 Valerian 383 Vanilla , 383 Vegetables, 384 Venus Hair 78 Vetch 401 Water Cress 136 Watermelon 401 Welsh Onion 110 Wheat 404: White Quinoa 168 Winged Pea 407 Wit Loef 407 Wood Sorrel 407 Wormwood . . 408 FRENCH. Absinthe 408 Achars . 167 Ail . . . 166 Alisandre 1 Amarante 109 Ambrosie 1 Aneth 147 Angelique 2 Angelique a feuille d'ache . . . 191 Anis ... 3 AnisEtoile 175 Anserine 168 Arachis. . . 245 Armoise 408 Arroche 237 Arrowroot 193 Artichaut 6 Asperge 18 Aubergine 151 Aunee 1 57 Aurome Citronnelle 332 Avoine (Farine 'd) 221 Badiane 175 Basilic 29 Baume 26 Ben . 51 INDEX TO ARTICLES. Xlll Berle Chervi 328 Bette 322 Betterave 47 Ble noir 57 Bouillon Blanc 199 Bourrache 53 Buglose 59 Cafe 116 Calament 75 Calamus 75 Camomille 105 Canneberge 134 Cannelle 112 Cantaloup 75 Capillaire 78 Capre 78 Capselle 327 Capucine 217 Carde Poiree 350 Cardon 79 Garrotte 83 Carvi 79 Catsup 89 Celeri 97 Celeri Have 94 Centauree 105 Cdpes 52 Cerfeuil 106 Cerfeuil Odorant 112 Cerfeuil enracind 382 Champignon 199 Champignon (Clavaria) 113 Chataigne 106 Chiche 108 Chiccore'e 109 Chicore'e 157 Chiendent 133 Choufleur 90 Chou Eave 380 Chou Savoy 321 Choux Brocoli 53 Choux de Bruxelles 55 Choux Marins 323 Choux Palmiste . . . 240 Choux Pi Tsai 259' Choux Pommd 60 Choux Portugais. 261 Choux Eouge '290 Choux Yert 176 Ciboulette Ill Citrouille 75 Citrouille 281 Cive 110 Civette 110 Cochlearia 322 Cocoa ou Coco 113 Colza 289 Concombre 137 Concombre des Prophetes. . . 168 Concombre Egyptien 15fr Concombre Serpentine .... 329 Coquelicot 120 1 Coriaiidre 120 Corn de serf 57 Cornichon 167 Cornichon 259^ Courge 339 1 Crambe Maritime 323 Cresson , . 135 Cresson Alenois de Jardin. . . 136 Cresson de Fontaine 136 Cresson e'le'gant des pro's 145 Cressonne'e Veronique 55 Crete Marine 319 Cumin 145 Curcuma 373 Echalote 326- Epice 334 Epinard 336 Epinard belle dame 219* Essence 165 Estragon 352 Farina 160 Farine 165 Farine Graham 160 Ferule 163 Fenouil 164 Feuille de Konce . . 53 XIV INDEX TO ARTICLES. FeVe 189 FeVe (Petite) 328 Fleur de Lis 239 Fourniture de Salade 316 Froment 404 Garbure 166 Genie vre 176 Gerofle (clou de) , 113 Gesse 109 Gesse 372 Gingembre 167 Glan de terre Ill Gourge 339 Graine de Surreau 156 Guimauve 195 Gumbo... 223 Haricot , . . . . 30 Haricot Asperge 26 Herbe 169 Houplon 171 Hysope 175 Igname 110 Iris 239 Jasmin , . 176 Kari 145 Laitue 182 Laurier Amande 30 Laurier Franc ou d'Appolon.. 30 Lavande 178 Legume Varie'e 384 Lentilles 180 Lupin 191 Mache 121 Macis , 192 Mais 122 Manioc 351 Marjolaine 194 Marrube 173 Mauve 193 Melilot 196 Melisse 27 Melon d'eau 401 Melon Muscat 211 Menthe . . 196 Menthe Poivre' 258 Menthe Verte 333 Molene 199 Morille 197 Mousseron 199 Mcutarde . . , 215 Muscade (noix de) 219 Navet 373 Navet Have 310 Nepeta 89 Oignon 225 Oosung 171 Orge 27 Ortie 218 Oseille 329 Oseille Oxalide 407 Oxalis 239 Pak-choi 240 Panais 242 Patate 346 Patience 244 Pavot 261 Persil 241 Petits Chene 220 Picridium 260 Piment 5 Piment Vert 253 Pimprenelle 59 Pisse en lit 146 Plantain 57 Plante et Herbes, Aromatic et Medicinal 4 Poireau 178 Pois 246 Pois Japonais 175 Pois Eame 407 Poivre 253 Pomme de terre 262 Potiron 75 Potiron gourge 281 Pouliot 253 Pourpier 283 Primevere 289 Quatre Epice 5 INDEX TO AETICLES. XV Radis 283 Radis Madras 192 Raifort 173 Raiponce 288 Reglisse 189 Rhubarbe 290 Rlmbarbe des Moinos 240 Riz 293 Rocambole 308 Romaine 133 Rornaine Blanche 407 Romarin 309 Eoquette 308 Rose Tre'miere 171 Rue 310 Sachet 260 Satfran 312 Sagou 314 Salep ou Saloop 318 Salpetre 319 Salsifis 316 Salsifis 333 Sarrasin 57 Sarriette 320 Sauge 313 Scarole . . 157 Sclaree 112 Scorpiure 89 Scorsone're 321 Seigle 311 Sel 319 Semoule 324 Sieve (Petite Feve) 328 Tanaisie ... 350 Tanaisie Barbotine 134 Tapioca 351 The' 352 Thym , 355 Tilleul 191 Tisane 147 Tomate 355 Tomate (fraize) 345 Tonka (Feve de) 368 Topinambour 17 Trufte., 368 Turmeric 373 Tussilage 119 Unicorn 382 Valeriane 383 Vanille 383 Vesce . . . 401 GERMAN. Adsung 171 Alant 157 Alantwurzel 157 Amaranth 109 Ambrosia 1 Andorn 173 Angelika 2 Anis 3 Aromatishe und Mediziuishe, Griiuter 4 Arrowmehl 193 Artishoke . . 6 Baldrian -. 383 Barenzuker 189 Basilikum 29 Bataten 346 Baumgamander 220 Bene 51 Bind Salat 133 Blatter Kohl 176 Blaukraut 290 BlumeuEohl 90 Bohne 30 Bohne (Lima) 189 XVI INDEX TO ARTICLES. Bolme (Sieva) 328 Boretsch 53 Brier blatter 53 Brocoli 53 Brunnen Kresse 130 Buchweitzen 57 Camomile 105 Catchup 89 Cepes 52 Cepes 208 Champignon 199 Champignon (Clavaria) 113 Chich 108 Chineschen Kohl 259 Cichorie 157 Cigorien 109 Cocoa 113 Curcumei 373 Diatetishe Getranke 147 Dill 147 Dragun 352 Egyptishe Gurke 156 Eierpflanze 151 Einhornwurzel 382 Endive 157 Erbsen 246 Erdartishoke 17 Erdnus Ill Erdnus 245 Ertshwamm 199 Essiggurke 167 Essiggurken 259 Extrakt '. 165 Farina 160 Fecula 163 Fenchel 164 Forellen Salat 133 Frauenhaar Syrup 78 Frauenmiinze 134 Frauenmiinze 333 Garbiir. . . 166 Gartenampfer 244 Gartenkerbel 106 Gartenmiinze . . , 196 Gemiise 384 Gerste 27 Gesse 109 Gurke 137 Hafermehl 221 Haferwurz 333 Haferwurz 316 Haferwurzel 321 Hohllauch 110 Holunclerbeere .;.... 156 Hopfen 171 Huflattish 119 Indishe Kresse 217 Ingwer 167 Iris 239 Isop 175 Japan Erbse 175 Kaffee 116 Kalaminth 75 Kaper 78 Kardon 79 Kari 145 Kartoffeln 262 Kastanie 106 Katzenkraut 89 Kleberkraut 168 Knoblauch 166 Knol Seller! 94 Knotig Gartenkerbel 382 Knotig Gesse 372 Kohlriibe 380 Kopfkohl 60 Koriander 120 Korn 122 Korn 311 Korn 404 Kornrose 120 Krauter 169 Kresse 186 Kuckuk's Blume 145 Kugulgurke 168 Kiimmel 79 Kiimmel 145 Kiirbis . 75 INDEX TO ARTICLES. XV11 Kiirbis 281 Kiirbis 339 Liimmersalat 121 Lattichsalat 182 Lauch 178 Lavendel 178 Liebesapfel 355 Liebesapfel (erdbeere) 345 Liebstockel 191 Linde 191 Linse 180 Lotfelkraut 322 Lorbeerblatt (common)., 30 Lorbeerblatt (Larustine) 30 LiJvenzahn 146 Mailander Kohl 321 Mias 122 Halve 193 Mangold 322 Marjoram 194 Meerettig 173 Heerf enchel 319 MeerKohl *.. 323 Mehl 165 Mehl Graham 169 Melisse 26 Melisse 27 Mellilot , 196 Melone 75 Melone (Muskat) 211 Mijehre 83 Mohnsamen 261 Moosbeere 134 Morchel 197 Morcheln (Cepes) 52 Muskatenbluthe 192 Muskatennus 219 Nelken 113 Nessel 218 Ochenzunge 59 Ocher 223 Orrach 237 Oxalis 239 Pak-choi. . 240 Palm Kohl ... 240 Paradiesfeige 57 Pastinake 242 Petersilie 241 Pfeffer 253 Pf effergurke . . . . , 167 Pf effermiinze 258 Picridium 260 Pillenfarn 135 Piment 5 Pimpinelle 59 Poke 260 Polei 253 Portulak 283 Portugal Kohl 261 Queckengrass 133 Eapunzel 288 Eaupenpflanzen 89 Eai l te 310 Eeis 293 Eettig 283 Eettig (Madras) 192 Ehabarber 240 Rhabarber 290 Eocambole 308 Roggen 311 Eosenpappel . 171 Eosmarin 309 Both Kohl 290 Eiibe 373 Riibesamen 289 Eunkel Eube 47 Saffran 312 Sago 314 Salbei 313 Salat Kriiuter 316 Salep 318 Saltpeter 319 Salz 319 Sammetpappel 195 Saturei 320 Sauerampt'er 329 Savoyer Kohl 321 Seekohl.. . 323 XV111 INDEX TO ARTICLES. PAGE Seller! 97 Semoule 324 Senf 215 Scharlei.... 112 Schlangengurke 329 Schlusselblume 289 Schnittlauch Ill Shallotte 326 Smy men kraut 1 Sourklee 407 Spanish Kerbel 112 Spargel 18 Spargel Bolme 26 Spargel Erbse 407 Spargel Kohl 53 Spinat . 336 Spinat (Belle dame) 219 Sprossen Kohl 55 Stabwurz 332 Steckrube 310 Sternanis 175 Siishols 189 Tapioca 351 Taschelkraut.. . 327 Tausendgiildenkrant 105 Thee 352 Thymian 355 Toiikabohne 368 Triiffel 368 Vanille 383 Vermouth 408 Wachholderbeere 176 Wassermelone 401 Weiserendivien 407 Weitzen 404 Wicke 401 Wilde Krausemiinze 55 Winterkresse 308 Wolfsbohne 191 Wollkraut 199 Wurmkraut 350 Wiirze 334 Yamwurzel 110 Yasmin 176 Younge mangoldpflanze 350 Zimmet 112 Zucker r wurzel 328 Zwiebeln . . .225 GLOSSARY -OF- WORDS AND TERMS USED IN THIS BOOK. Allemande. Allemande sauce is not of German origin, as the name would imply, but is the mother and stock of the white French sauces. It is made with veal and chicken broth, and is then called Veloute'e. After this the yolks of eggs, lemon juice, and essence of mushrooms are added. It is fully described in the " Book on Sauces." When this sauce can not be made conveniently a substitute can be made by thickening a veal or chicken broth, the same as for butter sauce, letting it boil for fifteen minutes. Put the yolks of four raw eggs in a saucepan with four spoon- fuls of cream, and mix in slowly one quart of the thickened veal or chicken sauce. Add the juice of one lemon, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and set it on the fire. Stir it continually until it boils, then strain it through a sauce towel. Put it in a saucepan and place small pieces of butter on top to prevent a crust from forming. Annual. Annual plants are those that must be sown every year. Aroma. The quality or principle of plants or seeds that constitutes their fragrance. An agreeable odor. Aromatic. A plant characterized by a pleasant smell, and usually by a warm, pungent taste. Bain-marie. Literally a hot water bath. A Bain-marie is a square pan in which hot water is kept, and is used to keep saucepans in that contain sauces or stews, that are to be kept warm before serving. The water must be kept almost at the boiling heat, but never allowed to boil. The name Bain-marie is also applied to the high saucepans that are made expressly to sit in the above mentioned Bain-marie pans. Biennial. Biennial plants are those that last for two years and then perish. Blanch. To whiten the stalks or leaves of a plant by earthing them up or tying them together to exclude the light. XX GLOSSARY. Braise. To cook or stew in a close-covered saucepan or other vessel on a slow fire. Formerly hot coals were put on the cover to keep the heat even, but an oven is much better and warms the vessel thoroughly. Brisk Fire. One burning with a quick, free action. Batter. When the expression "add apiece of butter" is used, it depends on the quantity of vegetables cooked. For four per- sons, add a piece as large as a walnut. For soups, add from four to six ounces. When it is added, toss the vegetables well over until the butter is melted. In soups, keep stirring until the butter is melted. In this way it thoroughly permeates the article being cooked, and gives it a glossy, velvety appearance. If it is not stirred, it will remain on the top and impart a greasy appearance to the food. Calyx. The outer covering of a flower. Capsule. The seed vessel of a plant. Catechu. A dry, brown, astringent extract, obtained by decoction and evaporation from the Acacia Catechu, in India. It contains a portion of tannin or tannic acid. Cellulose. -The substance left after the action of solvents on vege- table tissues. It is convertible into starch and sugar. Chopped. The term "chopped" parsley or onions is used often. Before being chopped, parsley must be washed, then dried in a towel; the large stems must be removed, and then the leaves are chopped. Then put it in a towel and wring out the moist- ure; after this dip it in boiling water for a minute, then immerse it in cold water and squeeze it dry. By doing this it will retain . its green color in cooking. Onions should not be chopped or they will turn black; they should be cut finely. Parboiled vegetables, such as spinach or cabbage, should be drained first and then dried before being chopped on a board. Garlic has a stronger flavor when mashed than when chopped. Clarify. To make clear. Applied principally to butter, which should be melted over a slow fire and then strained through a napkin. Coagulate. To curdle or thicken; to change from a liquid to a solid mass. Colander. A vessel with the bottom perforated with little holes for straining. Comfrey. A genus of plants that abound in mucilage. An emol- lient drink is made from the roots. GLOSSARY. XXI Conical. Fruit, roots or nuts that have the form of a cone: round and decreasing to a point. Corsican Sea Moss. A marine plant which, when boiled in water, is used in diet drinks and apozems. Cutters. Thero are several kinds of cutters for cutting vegetables for garnitures. They are made of tin in various shapes round, oval, square, etc. A vegetable spoon-cutter is a sort of a knife shaped like a spoon, and of numerous different sizes. Crow-foot. A pasture-plant that resembles the common buttercup in its flowers, and has acrid properties. If swallowed in its fresh state it produces heat and pain in the stomach. It is used in diet drinks and apozems. Decoction. The strength of leaves, seeds or other matter, extracted by boiling. Dilute. To dissolve, such as the yolks of eggs diluted in milk. When they are mixed they should always be strained. Eggs and milk are put in purees for the purpose of thickening them. Drills. A light furrow or channel made in the ground to put seed into in sowing. Esculent. Any plant that is fit for food, though sometimes used as a general name for edible roots. Espagnole Sauce. This is the stock sauce of almost all of the brown sauces. It is made of good stock broth, thickened with cooked flour, and then flavored. It is fully described in the "Book on Sauces." When this sauce cannot be made conveniently, an ordinary brown sauce can be substituted, which is made as fol- lows: Make an ordinary stock broth; then thicken, and flavor it lightly with ham, vegetables and Madeira wine. When done it must be free from grease. Expression. The act of pressing or squeezing out. Faggot. A term applied to a bunch of vegetables and herbs that are tied together with a string, so it can be removed conven- iently when the article is cooked. It is used in soups, sauces, and stews. See No. 1039. Farina. Fine dust or powder contained in the anthers of plants. Farinaceous. Consisting or made of meal or flour. Fecula. The nutritious part of wheat, starch or farina. Fermentation. That change of organic substances by which their starch or sugar, under the influence of water, air and warmth are decomposed and their elements are re-combined in new compounds. XX11 GLOSSARY. Flat Saucepan. A flat saucepan has a two-inch border, but they come in various sizes. They are used to reduce sauces. Small ones that have the bottom slightly curved are used for tossing. Fungi. A natural order of plants, such as mushrooms. Also ap- plied to excrescences on plants. Fusiform. Shaped like a spindle. Garniture. A decoration placed around or on joints, entrees, etc. They are used hot or cold. Vegetables are sometimes com- pounded in purees, which are also used as a garniture. Gentian Root. The root of the Gentian plant having a yellowish- brown color, and a very bitter taste. It is used in diet drinks and apozems. Germ. The ovary or seed-bud of a plant. Glaze. To glaze is to baste with a gravy while cooking; to nourish the article being cooked. It also gives it a nice color. The term glaze is also applied to a broth that is reduced as low as possible without being scorched. Cakes are glazed with fine sugar, diluted with wines. Some baked vegetables are glazed with the yolks of eggs, diluted in milk or water. Glume. The outer covering of corn, husks, or chaff. Gluten. A tough, elastic, gray substance, found in the flour of grain. Not Water" Bath. See Bain-marie in Index. Hybrid. A plant produced from the mixture of two species. Iceland Moss. A kind of lichen found in Europe, having a slightly bitter taste, and being tonic and nutritive in its properties. It is used in diet drinks and apozems. Immerse. The expression " immerse in cold water " is applied to vegetables that have been parboiled. The green vegetables are immersed so they will retain their green color, while others are immersed to remove their acidity and crude taste. Jardiniere. A well known term for a mixture of vegetables used as a garniture. Lichen. One of the order of cellular, flowerless plants that derive their nourishment from the air. They are usually of a green- ish or yellowish color, and are used in diet drinks and apo- zems. Lupalin. The fine yellow powder of hops. Macedoine. A mixture of vegetables, and is also applied to fruits and jellies. Macerate. To steep. GLOSSARY. xxiil Marsh- Trefoil. A plant growing in marshy places, having bitter leaves, which are used in diet drinks and apozems. Menyantlies. Same as Marsh-Trefoil. Moisten. To add a little liquid to prevent scorching or burning. Mulligatawny. A combination of East India spices that comes in the form of paste, and is used in soups and preparations of rice. Orange Blossoms or Leaves. The petals of the leaves are separated and dried. The leaves are dried in the shade, and kept in boxes in a dry place. They are both used in diet drinks or apozems. Ovate. Oval or egg-shaped. Palmate. Referring to leaves, and meaning those that spread from the apex of a petiole, so as to represent the hand with out- stretched fingers. Panicle. A form of inflorescence, in which the cluster is much and irregularly branched. Parboil. To cook anything partially by boiling. To boil moder- ately. It is done to remove the acidity or tartness from vege- tables or meats. Pedicle. The stem that supports one flower only. Peduncle. The stalk that supports the flower or fruit of a plant. Perennial. A plant which lives more than two years, whether it retains its leaves or not. Petal. The leaf of a flower. Petiole. The foot-stalk of a leaf that connects the blade with the stem. Pinch. A pinch of sugar or salt is the amount you can hold between three fingers. A small pinch is what the end of the blade of a knife will hold. A pinch of spice is the amount you can hold between the thumb and first finger; but care must always be taken with spice. Pistil. An organ of female flowers which adheres to the fruit and encloses the seed. Pomegranate. A tropical tree, the roots of which are prepared and used in diet drinks and apozems. Puree. A pure liquid soup containing no solid parts. A puree of vegetables is made as follows: Cook the vegetables desired; then drain off all of the moisture and rub the pulp through a fine sieve. Finish as directed in recipes. When used as a garniture they are kept firmer than when used for a sauce. Soup-purees are thickened soups diluted with broth to their proper consistency. XXIV GLOSSA&Y. Purge. To put vegetables in cold water for a certain time to extract their tartness or acidity. Reduce. To diminish the amount of water, broth, or moisture of any kind, in a saucepan or other vessel, over a fire. The moisture is reduced by evaporation. When reducing a sauce or puree, stir it continually until it is reduced, or it will lose its glossy appearance and flavor. Refresh. Vegetables are said to be refreshed when they are im- mersed in cold water after being parboiled. This is done to green vegetables to make them retain their color. Reniform. Having the shape of a section of a kidney; being broader than long, and more or less rounded. Rugose. Pertaining to leaves that have the veins more contracted than the disk, so that the surface rises into little inequalities. Saline. Consisting or partaking of the qualities of s ,-ilt. Scape The flowering stem of a plant. Scion. A young shoot, twig, or the sprout of a tree. Seedling. A young plant or root just sprung from the seed. Sessile. Applied to a leaf growing on a stem without having any foot-stalk. Setiform. Having the shape of a bristle. Sheath. A rudimentary leaf of a plant which wraps itself around the stem. Sieve. A utensil for separating the fine part of any pulverized or fine substance from the coarse, consisting of a vessel, usually shallow, with the bottom perforated, or made of hair or wire woven in meshes. Brass sieves should never be used for culi- nary purposes. Hair sieves, or those made of copper, tinned inside and outside, are best. Use wooden spoons, or sieve brushes when rubbing anything through a sieve. Purees of vegetables should be rubbed through quickly. Simmer. To boil gently, or until the liquid commences to boil, and the scum gathers on top, Spermatic. Consisting of seed, or pertaining to the elements of production. Spike. A species of inflorescence in which sessile flowers alternate on a common stalk. Spiracle. A small aperture in vegetable bodies through which air passes. GLOSSAEY. XXV Spoonful. When the term "spoonful" is used, it means the con- tents of a kitchen spoon, which holds about double the quan- tity of a tablespoon. Spore. The part of flowerless plants which performs the functions of seeds. Standard. A shrub or plant which stands singly, without any sup- port. Stellate.- Arranged in the form of a star around a common centre. Stirring. When any preparation containing solid matter is put in a saucepan, it should be stirred until it boils, or it will burn. All farinaceous preparations should be stirred well while cook- ing until they cook. When butter and flour is put in a sauce- pan to get browned, stir it constantly until done. Stool. The root or stem of a tree or plant cut off near the ground, from which the shoots spring up. Straining Is to pass anything through a sieve, colander strainer, or towel, in order to have it clear of impurities. Sub-sessile. Having very short foot-stalks. Sub-soil. The bed or layer of earth which lies beneath the surface soil. ' Succulent. Juicy, or full of juice. Sucker. The shoot of a plant from the roots or lower part of the stem . Sward. The grassy surface of land; turf. Tassels. The flower ribbons or heads of plants such as corn. Tepid. Moderately warm. Toss. (Saute') Means to cook on a brisk fire, without any moisture other than butter, oil, or lard. Trench. A plowed furrow, ditch, or channel. Triennial. Plants that last for three years. Trifoliate. Having three leaves or leaflets. Tuberous. Consisting of or containing a fleshy, roundish stem or root (called a tuber). Tunicated. Covered with a tunic or layers. Valve. A division of the fruit of a plant. Vexillum. The upper single petal of a flower, like that of a pea. Violet. The flowers of this well-known plant have an agreeable flavor, and are used in diet drinks and apozems. XXVI GLOSSAKY. White Archangel Nettle. The flowers of this plant are dried in the sun after being picked on a dry day, and are used in diet drinks and apozems. Wooden Spoon. Wooden spoons should always be used in preparing dishes, or in cooking purees of vegetables or cranberries, or when rubbing forced meats through a sieve. In reducing sauces a special kind of wooden spoon is used, which has a long handle, terminating like a paddle, with a flat surface. An iron spoon will scratch the tin in a saucepan, and generally imparts an unpleasant taste to the food. PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICLE I. French ALEXANDER. German Alisandre. Smyrnenkraut* No. 1. Is a hardy biennial plant, cultivated for its leaf stalks, which, after being blanched are used as a salad. In habit and foli- age it resembles the Celery somewhat. It has a pleasant aromatic taste and odor. CULTURE. No. 2. It is raised from seed annually, in light, deep loam, in drills four feet apart, covering its seeds an inch deep. When three inches high thin to ten inches apart; when well advanced earth up about the stems gradually, same as for Celery, like which they are also gathered for use and preserved during winter. PERFOLIATE ALEXANDERS. No. 3. A variety, originally from Italy, of superior quality It blanches better and is more crisp and tender, and not so harshly flavored. The stems are about three feet high. ARTICLE II. AMBROSIA. Ambrosie. Ambrosia. No. 4. Is an herb similar to Basil, and is used with Basil and Balm for the preparation of aromatic vinegar, and also used in fag- gots of Parsley when used for stewed game and small birds. Cul- tivation same as Balm, Article XI. HARDER S AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICLE) III. French ANGELICA. German Angelique. Angelika No. 5. Is is a hardy biennial aromatic plant, and is said to have originated in Syria, where it grows along the banks of rivers near high mountains. It is cultivated in the United States but is of in- ferior quality. The plant is highly esteemed in its preserved state, and much used by pastry cooks and confectioners. The best An- gelica now preserved comes from Niort, where the old formula is adhered to, as when made by the Nuns of the " Visitation of St. Mary," which gave it a world-wide reputation. The tender leaf- stalks and flavoring shoots of the native grown Angelica are used as a basis for sweet-meats, and the seeds for flavoring liquors. CULTURE. No. 6. The plants thrive best in damp localities, but may be grown in well enriched soil. Sow in drills, ten inches apart. Allow the young plants to remain until the following spring, then set them out two feet asunder, in each direction. The stalk, which is a cylindrical, hollow, herbaceous stem, will be fit for use by June of the following year. If the flower stem is removed, as it makes its appearance, the plants will put forth fresh sprouts from the sides of the root, and survive three years, but when allowed to blossom and perfect their seeds the plants soon perish. ANGELICA SYRUP. No. 7. Trim one pound Angelica stems, parboil them for ten minutes, then immerse them in cold water. Peel and dry them on a napkin, cut in small pieces, put in a glass jar with two quarts of Spirits of Wine, at fifty degrees; cover, and let stand for ten days. Then add a half pint of syrup, at thirty degrees. Filter the next day, put it in a bottle and cork well. PRESERVED OR CANDIED ANGELICA. No. 8. Cut the Angelica in stems twelve inches long, then throw them into boiling water, letting them boil twenty minutes, then immerse them into cold water. Peel and dry them on a napkin, and when all are prepared put them into an earthen bowl. Make a syrup with five pounds of sugar to five pounds of water. Pour it over the THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. * 3 Angelica boiling hot, and cover. Next day draw off the syrup, make it boil again, skimming it well, and pour over the Angelica again. Repeat this four times in all, and the fifth time let the syrup cook to a boil, then add the Angelica, letting it cook until it gets firm. Then take out one piece at a time and put them in a warm place to dry. IV. French ANISE. German Anis. Anis. No. 9. Is an annual aromatic plant, and is cultivated for its seeds and leaves, which are used for seasoning and flavoring. The seeds have a fragrant odor, a pleasant warm taste, and are used by confectioners and bakers, and also for medicinal purposes in cases of dyspepsia and colic, and to correct griping when taking unpleasant medicine. The green leaves are used like fennel for sea- soning and garnishing salads. ANISETTE CORDIAL. No. 10. A liquor distilled from anise seeds. The most renowned comes from Amsterdam, and is partaken after dinner with black coffee, and is also used for creams, jellies and punches. PUMPERNICKEL. No. 11. A kind of bread made in Germany called pumpernickel, in which anise seeds are mixed, and much relished when eaten with stewed prunes, figs or pears. CULTURE. No. 12. Sow in warm mellow or garden soil early in spring in drills ten inches apart and one inch deep. When the plants are about an inch high, thin to four inches apart and keep the ground between the rows loose and free from weeds. When the seeds are ripened the plants should be pulled up and spread in a sunny place to dry. Then thresh the seeds from the heads, riddle and winnow them and again expose to the sun to evaporate any remaining moisture. HARDER S AMERICAN COOKERY. AROMATIC, MEDICINAL AND POT HERBS. French German Planie Medicinal, Aromatique et herbe. Medizinishe Aromatishe, Griiuter. No. 13. Care should be taken to harvest them properly. This should be done on a. dry day just before they come into full bloom. Then dry them and pack closely entirely excluded from the air. They are used for culinary and medicinal purposes. For further information see each under its classification. CULTURE. No. 14. Most of the varieties thrive best in rich sandy soil, which should be carefully prepared and well cultivated, as the young plants are for the most part delicate, and are easily choked out by weeds. Sow as early as the ground can be made ready, in drills sixteen inches apart, or they may be planted as a second crop, the seeds sown in beds in April and the plants set out in June. No. 15. The following constitutes some of the various varieties of aromatic, medicinal and pot herbs: Ambrosia, Coltsfoot (common), Angelica, Coriander, Anise, Couch grass or Wheat grass, Balm, Costmary or Alecost, Balm Mint, Cuckooflower Cress, Basil Sweet, Cumin, Ben, Dill, Borage, Elecampane, Bugloss, Fennel Sweet, Burnet, Fennel Flower (field), Carraway, Garlic, Catnip, Hop, Chamomile, Horehound, Chervil, Hyssop, Chives or Welch Onion, Lavender, Chives, Licorice, Cicely Sweet, Lupine, Clary, Mandrake or May Apple, THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. Marjoram Sweet, Saffron, Melilot, Sage, Mint, Samphire, Palmate Leaved Ehubarb, Samphire (sea), Parsley, Savory, Penny Royal, Scallion, Peppermint, Southerwood , Picridium (garden), Spearmint, Poppy or maw, Tansy, Pur slain, Tarragon, Rosemary or Rosemarine, Thyme, Rue, Wormwood. ARTICLE VI. ALLSPICE OR AROMATIC NIGELLE. French tcrinan Piment ou Quartre Epices. Piment. No. 16. Is a hardy annual plant from the East Indies. It is cultivated for its seeds, which are produced in a roundish capsule and are somewhat triangular, wrinkled, of a yellowish color, and have a pungent, aromatic taste. There are species cultivated, the seeds of which are black. The seeds have a warm, aromatic taste, and are used in. the kitchen under the name of allspice 9r the four spices. CULTURE. No. 17. Sow in April, in light, warm soil, in drills fourteen inches apart and half an inch deep. When the plants are two inches high thin them to six inches apart in the rows, keeping the soil loose and watering occasionally, if the weather is dry. When the seed ripens cut off the plants at the roots, and spread them in an airy situation to dry. When dried thresh out, after which spread out the seeds again for a short time to evaporate any remaining moisture, when they will be ready for use. HAEDER S AMERICAN COOKEEY. ARTICLE: VII. French ARTICHOKE. German Artichaut. Artishoke. No. 18. Artichokes were first discovered in Italy, but are now planted in all large gardens in the United States, and are used as a vegetable, and prepared for the table in various ways. There are five kinds of Artichokes, viz : The Yiolet, the White, the Green, the Red, and the Sweet. They are called the Globe Artichokes, which differ from the Jerusalem Artichoke. The Sweet Artichoke is preferable to all others for its delicious flavor. It grows very small, and its plants are very productive for two years. It is rare yet in this country. .The Green, which is the variety in general use, is large and juicy. The Bed, which is more delicate than the Green, is picked when young, and is mostly used for eating in the raw state, or in salad. The Violet grows as large as the Green, but is not as profitable in culture. The White is very productive, but very troublesome to raise, and owing to this is very rare in the market. Artichokes when eaten raw take long to digest, but when cooked are very agreeable. They are cooked in various ways as a vegetable for the table, and are used for garnitures and soups. CULTURE. No. 19. Sow in April in rich soil, and transplant the following spring to permanent beds, in rows or drills, three feet apart and two feet between the plants. The first season will only give a par- tial crop, but as it is a perennial, after being once planted the beds will remain in bearing for years. They should be protected in winter by a covering of leaves or coarse manure. GREEN LARGE GLOBE. No. 20. Is the best for general culture and use. The edible portion is the undeveloped flower heads, which should be used be- fore they begin to open, and the stalk should then be cut to the ground, for if the flowers expand they weaken the plant. In the large Globe the buds are large nearly round; scales deep green, shading to purple, very thick and fleshy, the bottom of which is the edible part. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 7 HOW TO PREPARE ARTICHOKES FOR COOKING. No. 21. Do not use Artichokes when they have developed. If once open they are not good for cooking. Cut off the stem, trim off the hard leaves around the bottom, and cut off the upper quarter of the Artichoke leaves. Then scoop out the fibrous part in the middle and put them in a pan of cold water acidulated. When thus prepared put them in boiling water, add a little salt and lemon juice, and cook until tender. When done drain them OD a napkin. ARTICHOKES WITH HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. No. 22. Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 21. Then put them in boiling water with a little salt and the juice of two lemons, cover the saucepan and let them boil for twenty-five minutes on a brisk fire. When ready to serve drain them on a napkin, upside down, so as to absorb all the moisture from them, then dish them up on a napkin, and serve the Hollaudaiss Sauce separately. ARTICHOKES WITH BUTTER SAUCE. No. 23. Prepare the Artichokes same as for Hollandaise, and serve the butter sauce separately in a sauce bowl. ARTICHOKES WITH MAYONNAISE OR VINAIGRETTE. No. 24. -Prepare same as for Hollandaise, serve Mayonnaise or Vinaigrette sauce separately. ARTICHOKES, WITH OIL OR POIVRADE SAUCE. FOB RELISH OB SIDE DISH. No. 25. The small tender ones are served raw, after being cleaned of the fibrous parts and dished up on a napkin. The large ones are cut into quarters, trimmed of the hard leaves. Removing all the fibrous parts, keep them in cold water, in which add a little vinegar. Serve them in a relish dish, adding the juice of lemons which will keep the artichokes from turning black. Serve the sauce separately in a sauce bowl. ARTICHOKES, WITH OIL AND VINEGAR SAUCE. No. 26. Take the yolks of two hard boiled eggs, mash them into a fine paste, put them into a bowl with two fine chopped 8 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. shallots, add in slowly, while stirring with a wooden spoon, three spoonfuls of vinegar. Season with salt and pepper, then add two spoonfuls of sweet oil, mixing it well together and serve with artichokes, raw or plain boiled. ARTICHOKES -BARIGOULE. No. 27. Trim one dozen middle sized artichokes, cut the top leaves off in the middle, trim the bottom round and with a tea- spoon scoop out all the fibrous part. Put them in cold water with a little vinegar, and when all cleaned parboil them for a few minutes, then immerse them in cold Avater. Drain them on a napkin to absorb all the moisture from them. Chop eight shallots very fine and put them in a saucepan with two ounces of scraped fresh fat pork. Fry lightly, then add a quarter of a pound of fine chopped mushrooms, one handful of fresh bread crumbs and a little chopped parsley; season well. Fill the centre of the artichokes with this preparation, cover each with a thin slice of fat pork, place them in a deep flat saucepan lined with a layer of thin sliced fat pork. Moisten witli a clear madeira wine sauce (or mirpoix), put on the lid and simmer gently in the oven for three quarters of an hour. When done and ready to serve remove the fat pork, strain the gravy, take off the grease and then add the gravy to a brown Italian sauce and reduce it to its consistency. Put a teaspoonful of sauce in each artichoke and serve the rest separately in a sauce bowl. ARTICHOKE BARIGOULE ANOTHER WAY. No. 28. Prepare the artichokes same as in No. 27. Chop eight shallots very fine and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry them lightly, then add a little garlic, a quarter of a pound of fine chopped mushrooms, one handfull fresh bread crumbs and a little chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. Mix all well together, then fill the centre of the artichokes with, this preparation. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over each of them, arrange them in a deep buttered flat saucepan, put a piece of butter on each artichoke and bake in the oven until nicely browned. Serve with a white Italian sauce reduce*d with a glass of white wine. ARTICHOKES, ITALIAN STYLE. No. 29. Prepare the artichokes as in No. 31. Then put them in a flat saucepan. Season with salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar. Moisten with a glass of white wine and some white broth. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 9 Then let them cook on a brisk fire, and when done the broth must be reduced to a half glaze. Then add fottr spoonfuls of white Italian sauce, and serve. FEIED ARTICHOKES, ITALIAN STYLE. No. 30. Prepare the Artichokes as in No.^1. When dried, put them in an earthen bowl and season with salt and pepper, the juice of two lemons and a small wine glassfull of olive oil. Let them macerate for half an hour, then drain them-^pn-a strainer, flour them, ^* '* dip each piece in beaten eggs and fry in clarified butter. Dish them on a napkin, and garnish with fried parsley. Serve with Brown Italian sauce. AKTICHOKES, LYONNAISE. No. 31. Cut one dozen Artichokes in four parts, trim off the hard leaves, cut the others close around the bottom, take off the fibrous part, and put them in cold water with a little vinegar, so as to retain their color. When all prepared, parboil for five minutes, then immerse them in cold water and drain them dry on a napkin. Then put the Artichokes in a flat saucepan, well buttered, season with salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar, put on a brisk fire, turn- ing them over occasionally, and moisten with a half bottle of white wine and the same quantity of good white broth. Cover the sauce- pan. When cooked, the broth must be three-quarters reduced. Dish the Artichokes on a dish, with their bottoms upwards, strain the gravy, take off the grease, add four spoonsful of Allemande sauce, reduced to its consistency, a piece of butter, a little glaze and the juice of half a lemon, and pour the sauce over the Artichokes. STUFFED AKTICHOKES, BOEDELAISE. No. 32. Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 27. Chop one large white onion fine, put in saucepan and fry it lightly in sweet oil. Then add the bottoms of five cooked Artichokes cut in small square pieces, the same quantity of cooked ham, and a quarter of a pound of mushrooms. When the moisture is reduced, drain off the sweet oil and add one handful of fresh bread crumbs, a little chopped parsley, and season with salt and pepper. Mix all well together, adding three spoonfuls of reduced Madeira wine sauce. Fill the centre of the Artichokes with this preparation, and cover each with a fine slice of fat pork. Line a deep, flat saucepan with thin slices of fat pork, two sliced onions, one carrot, and a faggot of parsley garnished. Put the Artichokes in, moisten with a 10 HAKDEB'S AMERICAN COOKERY. glass of white wine and good stock broth, make it boil, put on the lid and set it in the oven. When cooked take them out, place them on a dish, strain the gravy, take off the grease, reduce it to a half glaze, add the juice of one lemon, a little fine chopped parsley and a piece of butter. Put a teaspoonful of the sauce over each Arti- choke, and serve the rest in a sauce bowl, separately. STUFFED ARTICHOKES, AMERICAN STYLE. No. 33. Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 27. Chop one large onion in fine pieces, and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry them lightly, then add a quarter of a pound of fine chopped braized veal, same quantity of cooked Artichoke bottoms cut in small square pieces, a haiidfull of fresh bread crumbs, a little fine chopped parsley and chives. Season with salt and pepper and two spoonfuls of reduced Allemande sauce. Mix all well together and stuff the Artichokes with this preparation. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over them. Arrange them on a buttered pan, place a small piece of butter on each, and bake in a hot oven. Serve with, or separately, a reduced Madeira wine sauce, in which add some fine herbs. ARTICHOKES, TOSSED (SAUTE) IN BUTTER. No. 34. Out one dozen Artichokes in quarters, trim off the hard leaves, take off all the fibrous parts, leaving three leaves on each piece, nicely trimmed. Arrange them in a deep flat saucepan, with six ounces of butter, cover the saucepan and let them simmer for twenty-five minutes. When tender dish them up in the form of a circle, then add one large spoonful of fresh bread crumbs to the butter. Fry it lightly, season with salt and pepper, the juice of one lemon, and a little fine chopped parsley. Pour the sauce in the middle and serve hot. HOW TO PREPARE ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS. No. 35. Use medium or large sized Artichokes. They are used for garnitures of meats and soups, and as a vegetable are prefer- able to the others as all is edible. In the others the leaves have to be picked, and are very annoying to persons not accustomed to eat- ing Artichokes. Take one dozen even sized Artichokes, cut off the stem and three-quarters of the top, scoop out the fibrous part with a small sharp knife, round the Artichoke even to the fleshy part, and put them in a pan with cold water acidulated. Put in a saucepan a quarter pound of butter, add two spoonfuls of flour, and mix it THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 11 well. Then add two quarts of boiling water, stirring it well until it boils, not allowing it to get lumpy. Add the juice of four lemons, a little salt, then the Artichokes, and let them cook slowly until tender. When cooked and not ready for use, put them in an earthen bowl with the liquid, and cover with a paper cover. When ready for use take them out one by one and dip them in lukewarm water and prepare them as needed. STUFFED ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS. CLABA LOUISE KELLOGG STYLE. No. 36. Prepare the Artichoke bottoms as in No. 35. Cut one large white onion in small square pieces, put them in lukewarm water for two minutes, then immerse them in cold water, after which put them in a napkin and dry them well. Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and fry. When nicely browned, season with salt and pepper and a little chopped parsley or chives'. Put this preparation on a plate to get cold, then fill the bottom of the Artichokes, sprinkle some fresh bread crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese over them; arrange them on a buttered pan with a few drops of olive oil over each, and put in the oven until lightly browned. Serve with a Soubise sauce. STUFFED ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, PIONEER STYLE. No. 37. Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. Chop one large onion fine and put it in a saucepan. Fry it nice and brown, and season with salt and pepper. Add a quarter of a pound of fine chop- ped roast veal, two spoonfuls of reduced Allemande sauce, and two spoonfuls of fresh bread crumbs, mix all well together. Take it oft the fire, add the yolk of two raw eggs, stuff the Artichoke bottoms, then shake some light colored raspings of bread over them. Arrange on a buttered pan with a piece of butter on each bottom, and bake in oven. Serve with a thickened veal gravy. STUFFED ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, ITALIAN STYLE. No. 38. Prepare one dozen large Artichokes as in No. 35. Fill them with stuffing of forced meat of chicken or veal, in which add S9me cooked fine herbs. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over each, and a few drops of sweet oil. Arrange them in a pan, on which put some light Espagnole sauce (or gravy), bake them slowly to a nice brown color, and dish them up, adding to the sauce a piece of butter, the juice of one lemon and a little chopped parsley, Put a tea- spoonful over each Artichoke bottom, and serve the rest separately. 12 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, FRICASSEE. No. 39. Prepare the Artichokes as in No. 35. Then cut them in quarters and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Toss them in the pan over the fire, then add some Allemande sauce, the juice of one lemon, and a little finely chopped parsley. FRIED ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, VILLEROI STYLE. No. 40. Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. When well dried dip them in some cool Villeroi sauce, the a place them on a plate and put them in a cool place, so the sauce may get cold and adhere to the bottom. Then roll them lightly in fresh bread crumbs, dip in beaten eggs and bread them again, being careful in the handling of them. Fry in clarified butter or lard to a nice brown color, and dish up in a napkin with fried parsley to garnish. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, SPANISH STYLE. No. 41. Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. When all are trimmed put them in a deep flat saucepan, lined with thin slices of fat pork. Moisten by covering with veal broth and a wineglassful of white wine and the juice of one lemon. Season with salt and pep- per, cover the saucepan and let them cook slowly. When tender take out the Artichoke bottoms, dish them on a plate, strain the gravy, reduce it on a brisk fire, adding two spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce and one of Tomato sauce. When reduced to the proper con- sistency take it off the fire, add a few drops of lemon juice, a piece of butter, and a little fine chopped parsley, then pour the sauce over the Artichoke bottoms. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, MACEDOINE. No. 42. Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. Put them in a flat saucepan with a piece of butter, warm them thoroughly, and season with salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar. Prepare sepa- rately a small cut Macedoine garniture, with vegetables. Cook and glaze each kind of vegetable separately, then mix them all together, adding two spoonfuls of Allemande sauce, Fill each bottom with the garniture, with a few drops of half glaze over each. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, PROVENC.ALE. No. 43. Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. Parboil them for ten minutes, then immerse them in cold water and dry THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 13 them on a napkin. Arrange them in a flat saucepan with three spoon- fuls of Olive oil, half a dozen cloves of garlic (whole). Season with pepper and salt, and let them simmer until tender, then serve them plain with two lemons cut in halves. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, WITH FINE HERBS. No. 44. Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. Stuff them with cooked fine herbs, to which add some fresh bread crumbs and chopped fresh mushrooms. Arrange them in a deep flat saucepan, with a small piece of butter in each. Moisten them with a light thickened brown gravy, put in an oven and bake slowly. Baste frequently with the gravy, and when nicely browned dish them up with the gravy. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, STEWED FOR GARNITURE. No. 45. Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. Cut them in quarters and put in a saucepan with a little reduced Allemande sauce. Season with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Then toss them in the pan gently over the fire, and serve as required. NOTE. Very little sauce should be used with vegetable garnitures. All stuffed Artichoke bottoms can be used for garnitures. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, FOR LARGE COLD GARNITURE. No. 46. Have some large white Artichoke bottoms cooked as in No. 35. Dry them on a napkin and glaze them with a coating of Aspic jelly. Keep them in a cool place until needed. Fill each with a garniture of small cut vegetables (alternating each vegetable in color), seasoned and glazed with Aspic jelly. Dish them up in a pyramid with finely chopped Aspic jelly around the dish. ARTICHOKE PUREE, FOR GARNITURE. No. 47. Prepare two dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. When cooked drain them and put in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Toss them in the pan over the fire lightly, then add one pint of Cream sauce, or Allemande sauce. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Eub them through a fine sieve, then put the puree in a flat saucepan, with one wineglassful of double cream, and reduce the puree to its proper consistency. Put it in a Bain- marie saucepan, with a little butter on top to save it from getting a crust. Keep warm in a hot water bath until ready for use, and 14 HARDEB'S AMERICAN COOKERY. when ready to serve add a piece of butter, and stir well until the butter is melted. ARTICHOKE CROQUETTES. No. 48. When the Artichoke bottoms are cooked, as in No. 35, drain them dry and cut two dozen in small square pieces. Put in a flat saucepan a piece of butter with four finely chopped shallots. Fry them lightly, then add one pint of cream, or Allemande sauce. Reduce it and add the yolks of six raw eggs. Season with salt and pepper, nutmeg and a little fine chopped parsley. Add the Arti- chokes and let boil up once or twice. Then mix them gently and put in a place to cool. Then form in any croquette shape desired. Bread in fresh bread crumbs, and dip in beaten eggs and bread again. Fry in hot lard and dish up on a napkin, with fried parsley to garnish. ARTICHOKE PUREE SOUP. No. 49. Peel three dozen large Artichokes as in No. 35. Then cut them in quarters and put in a saucepan with four ounces of butter. Season with salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar. Set them on a slow fire so that they attain a light color, then add some white stock broth to cover them, and a faggot of parsley' garnished with celery, and two onions. Cover the saucepan and cook them until tender. Then add one gallon of thickened chicken or veal broth, and let boil slowly for a half hour. Take out the faggot of parsley and the two onions, skim it and rub it through a fine sieve. Then put back in saucepan to keep warm. Before serving add a piece of butter, stirring it well until melted and serve with it, separately, small fried bread crumbs. ARTICHOKE CREAM SOUP. No. 50. Peel three dozen large Artichokes as in No. 35. Then cut them in quarters and put them in a saucepan, with a quarter of a pound of butter. Toss them in the pan over the fire lightly (not allowing them to get brown). Then cover them with white chicken or veal broth. Add a faggot of parsley well garnished and season with salt, pepper and a little sugar, and let them cook slowly until tender. Take out the faggot of parsley. Add two quarts of cream sauce and pound them through a fine colander and add enough broth so as not to have it too thick, and then strain the whole through a fine sieve. Put back in the saucepan and season to taste, keeping it warm without allowing it to boil. Before serv- THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 15 ing add four ounces of butter, stirring it well until the butter is melted. Pour in the soup-tureen the following preparation: The yolks of four raw eggs with a half pint of cream well mixed, and strain through a fine strainer. Then add this in the soup slowly, stirring it well. It is then ready to serve. PICKLED AETICHOKES. No. 51. Take some fresh picked Artichokes, cut off the stems, trim off the hard leaves, cut off the upper part in the middle, and trim the other leaves close to the bottom. Scoop out all the fibrous part carefully and put the Artichokes in a pan with cold water, in which add a little vinegar. When they are all cleaned parboil for five minutes and then immerse them in cold water. Trim all alike, and rub them with a lemon and arrange in an earthen jar or barrel, the size intended to be filled. When filled, pour over so as to cover them, a brine of water and salt, from six- teen to eighteen degrees (sugar weight.) Twenty-four hours after- wards drain off the water; boil it again, skim and add salt again to bring the 4 brine to its former strength. Then cover the barrel or jar hermetically. When ready to use for cooking, let them soak in luke-warm water from ten to fifteen hours. HOW TO COOK PICKLED ARTICHOKES. No. 52. Put in a saucepan four ounces of butter, and two spoons- ful of flour. Mix well together, adding while stirring, one quart of boiling water, letting it boil slowly. Then add the juice of two lemons and the Artichokes (having been prepared as above). Cover the saucepan and let boil slowly and prepare them as needed. / AETICHOKES PEESERVED WHOLE. No. 53. Take freshly picked Artichokes, and see that they are fleshy and sound. Cut off the stem and trim off the hard leaves around the bottom. Cut off the top part in the middle and scoop out the fibrous part carefully. Parboil them for five minutes in water acidulated with a little vinegar, then immerse them in cold water, after which rub the bottom of each with a lemon. Then place them in tin boxes, about five in a box. Cover them with cold boiled water lightly salted. Add the juice of two lemons in each box. Then solder on the cover and boil the boxes in a hot water bath for two hours. 16 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICHOKES PRESERVED IN QUARTERS. No. 54 Use middle sized Artichokes. Cut off the stem and trim off all the hard leaves. Cut them in quarters, remove all the fibrous part, round off the bottoms, trim off the edges of the remain- ing leaves, and parboil them for five minutes. Then immerse in cold water. Rub each piece with a lemon, and cook them in a prep- aration, same as Artichoke Bottoms, No. 55, and proceed in the same way. Add the juice of two lemons in each quart can, and sol- der on the cover. Then boil the cans in a hot water bath for one hour. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, PRESERVED IN CANS. No. 55. Prepare and clean the Artichokes as in No. 35. When all are cut and free from all fibrous parts, rub them well with a lemon. Parboil them ^for five minutes, then immerse in cold water. Have ready on the fire a saucepan, in which put a quarter of a pound of melted butter, and the same quantity of flour. Mix them well together, adding two quarts of boiling water, stirring all well until it boils. Then add the juice of three lemons and let boil slowly for twenty minutes, adding the Artichokes. Then cover the saucepan and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Then take it off of the fire and let it get cold. Take out one Artichoke after another, and dip in lukewarm water. Dry them on a napkin and place in quart tin cans, each to be done the same way, and then covered with cold boiled water slightly salted. Add the juice of two lem- ons to each can. Solder the cover, and boil in hot water bath for one hour and a half. No. 56. Prepare the Artichoke bottoms as in No. 35. Use lemon juice in place of vinegar to keep them white. When they are cooked drain them on a napkin, rub them through a fine sieve, put the puree in pint tin boxes, solder on the cover, and boil in hot water bath for one and one-half hours. When ready to use the pre- served puree open the can, and put the puree in a saucepan with half its quantity of Cream, or Allemande sauce. When thor- oughly warmed, season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Before serving add a piece of butter, mixing it well until the butter is melted. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 17 VIII French JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. German Topinambour. Erdartishoke. No. 57. It is entirely different from the Globe Artichoke; its roots are all tubers, which are served as a vegetable; they resem- ble potatoes but have an Artichoke flavor. CULTURE. No. 58. They are grown exclusively for their tubers, and are cultivated similar to potatoes, only that the rows in which they are planted should be at least four feet apart when they are grown in rich soil. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. No. 59. Wash them thoroughly in cold water, trim them in the shape of a large olive, boil them in water, lightly salted, adding a piece of butter; when cooked drain them, dish up and pour butter sauce over them. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, ITALIAN STYLE. No. 60. Wash and peel the Artichokes, then slice them and put in a flat saucepan with some clarified butter. Fry them lightly, then moisten with white broth, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Then let them simmer slowly until cooked, when the broth must be reduced to a glaze. Add the juice of lemon and serve with Italian sauce over them. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, CRACOVIENNE. No. 61. Peel and boil sOme large sized Artichokes. When cooked slice them, not too thin. Put them in a flat saucepan with clarified butter and fry lightly. Dish them up with fresh bread crumbs and fine chopped onions, fried in clarified butter and poured over them. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, PUREE FOR GARNITURE. No. 62. Peel and wash two dozen Artichokes, slice and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Toss them over the fire 2 18 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. a few minutes, then moisten them with just enough broth to cover them. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Cook them until the broth is reduced. Then add a half pint of cream sauce and rub through a tine sieve. Put them back in a flat saucepan, and reduce with a little cream to its consistency. Before serving add a small piece of butter and a few drops of meat glaze. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, FOR GARNITURE. No. 63. Peel the Artichokes, cut them in any kind of shape you wish, but have them all alike. Put them in a saucepan, with white broth and a piece of butter. Cook them so as to reduce the broth to glaze the Artichokes. Serve them with a half glaze, cream, or Allemande sauce, as may be required. SOUP PUREE, JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE, PALESTINE. No. 64. Put in a sancepan, two fine chopped onions with four ounces of butter. Fry them lightly, then add ten pounds of Arti- chokes cut in slices. Put on the cover and let them simmer slowly for twenty minutes, then add one gallon of thickened chicken or veal broth, and a faggot of parsley garnished. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and pinch of sugar. Let them cook slowly until they are tender. Take out the faggot and rub them through a fine sieve, then put back in saucepan to keep warm. When ready to serve add a pint of cream, in which dilute the yolks of five raw eggs, and a piece of butter, stirring it well until the butter is melted. IX. French ASPARAGUS. German Asperge. Spar gel. No. 65. The Asparagus is one of the best table vegetables, having a delicious flavor, and being easily prepared. It can be had nearly all the year round, but is best when in season. To have them at perfection they need great care in their cultivation. The best flavored and most tender are those raised under cover and kept from the rays of the sun. There are four varieties: the green, violet, white and wild Asparagus. The white is savory and agree- THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 19 able for eating whole, but contains little substance. The violet grows large and is very substantial and preferred by all gourmets. The green is smaller and more common and is generally used for soups and purees. The wild is used for medical purposes. The water in which Asparagus has been boiled, when cold, is a refresh- ing drink, and can be used to advantage by persons troubled with kidney complaint. CULTUEE No. 66. Sow early in spring, as soon as the ground will admit of working, in rows a foot apart. Keep carefully hoed and clear from weeds, and the plant will be in condition to set out in the suc- ceeding spring. The soil for the permanent beds should be thor- oughly manured and trenched or plowed to a depth of at least one foot. Plant in rows, spread the roots well out and let the crown of the plant be set deep enough so that it will be covered from five to eight inches. In heavy soil the covering must be less than in light soil. After sowing the seeds, tread them firmly in with the feet. COLOSSAL. No. 67. The best variety, unrivaled in size, deep green in color, tender and good in quality. GIANT. No. 68. A popular variety, producing green and purple shoots, according to the soil. It grows very hardy but not as large as v the Colossal. CROSSBRED. No. 69. It retains the head closed until the stalks are quite long and is of a uniform color, while for tenderness and quality it is unsurpassed. The size is medium large, and uniform, SMALL DEFIANCE. No. 70. Is of a rich green color, very early, good sized, tender, and good quality. HOW TO PREPARE ASPARAGUS FOR COOKING. No. 71. Wash the Asparagus in plenty of cold water, then take a knife and scrape the bottom parts of the stems. Put them in bundles of about ten to fifteen Asparagus in each and see that the 20 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. heads are even. Tie them with a string and cut them at the bottom so as to have them all the same length. Boil them in boiling water with a little salt. Asparagus to be good should not be overdone, and in serving them when boiled, dish up on a napkin so that it will absorb all the moisture, with sauce separately. ASPARAGUS, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. No. 72. Prepare the Asparagus as in No. 71. Tie them in small bunches. When boiled and tender, drain them on a napkin. Dish them on a hot plate, in a folded napkin, with butter sauce separately in a bowl. ASPARAGUS, HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. No. 73. Prepare Asparagus as in No. 71. Tie them in small bunches. When boiled drain them on a napkin, dish them on a dish with Hollandaise sauce served over the tops of the Asparagus, or serve the sauce separately if in large quantities. ASPARAGUS PIEMONTAISE. No. 74. Prepare Asparagus same as for Hollandaise. Use green Asparagus. When cooked and drained, serve them on a dish with a nut-brown butter sauce. ASPARAGUS, POMPADOUR. No. 75. Prepare three pounds of Asparagus as in No. 71. Tie them in bundles; cut off all the hard part so as to have only the tender part left. Cook them in boiling water seasoned with salt. When cooked, drain them on a napkin and keep warm. While the Asparagus is cooking, make the following sauce : Put in a saucepan one-half pound of best fresh butter, add a little salt, pinch of mace and red pepper, the yolks of four raw eggs, the juice of two lemons and two soup spoons full of cold water. Put the saucepan in boil- ing water, stirring it with a whisk continually. As soon as it com- mences to thicken take it off the fire, place a layer of Asparagus on a dish, then a layer of the sauce twice over. This must be served hot; delay will spoil it. The Asparagus must be served with a spoon, and is eaten \jith the fork. ASPARAGUS, SPANISH STYLE. No. 76. Prepare two dozen bunches of Asparagus as in No. 71. When cooked, drain them on a napkin. When dry, place them on THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 21 a dish and serve separate, one soft-poached egg for each person, which you poach in the Asparagus water, and a sauce bowl of Vin- aigrette sauce. ASPAKAGUS, WITH OIL AND VINEGAR. No. 77. When Asparagus is prepared as in No. 71, and cooked, immerse them in cold water until cold, to retain their green color. Then drain them on a napkin and serve as needed with a sauce as indicated in Artichokes No. 26. ASPAEAGUS TOPS HOW TO PBEPABE. No. 78. Asparagus Tops are the tender part of the Asparagus. For small garniture, first cut off the heads and then cut the other part of the stem the size of a large pea. Cook each separately in boiling water seasoned with salt, on a brisk fire. When cooked, immerse in cold water, to keep them green; then drain them on a sieve, put them on a plate, cover them with a dampened napkin and keep in a cool place until needed. For large garniture cut all the pieces one inch long. To be served in faggots, leave them from two to four inches long, as may be required. ASPAEAGUS TOPS, WITH SAUCE. No. 79. Prepare two pounds of Asparagus tops as in No. 78. Cut one and a half inches long, and when ready for use put them in a flat saucepan with a piece of butter. Toss them gently in the pan over the fire, and when warmed season with pepper, pinch of nut- meg, and sugar. Let boil up once or twice, then add a mixture of the yolks of two raw eggs, diluted with a little cream and a small piece of butter; mix it well together, not letting it boil, and then serve. ASPAEAGUS TOPS, COLBEET. No. 80. Prepare one pound of Asparagus as in No. 78. Cut them one inch long; keep the heads separate, and put each part in a saucepan with a small piece of butter. Toss them gently in the saucepan over a brisk fire, then add two spoonfuls of Allemande sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Dish up the stalk part first, with the heads over them, and with a garniture of poached eggs around the dish, with a few drops of glaze on each egg. ASPAEAGUS TOPS, WITH TEUFFLES, IMPEEIAL. No. 81. Prepare two pounds of Asparagus tops as in No. 78. Cut them one inch long, and when cooked put them together in a 22 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. flat saucepan with a small piece of butter. Season with salt and pep- per, and warm thoroughly, then serve them on a dish, leaving some space in the centre. Fill the centre with a garniture of truffles cut in a Julienne, and finished with a reduced Madeira wine sauce. When dressed sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over them. ASPARAGUS TOPS, WITH MUTTON GRAVY. No. 82. Prepare two pounds of Asparagus tops. Cut them one inch long, parboil five minutes, drain and put them in a saucepan with a small piece of butter. Season with salt, pepper, pinch of nutmeg, and add two cupfulls of mutton gravy. Finish cooking them on a brisk fire, and before serving add some finely chopped parsley and chives. ASPARAGUS TOPS, FOR GARNITURE. No. 83. Prepare the Asparagus as in No. 78. For small garni- ture they may be served in sauce, or tossed in butter in the pan over the fire, and seasoned with salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar. For large garnitures tie them in faggots and dress them in bunches, alternating with other vegetables, as may be required. ASPARAGUS PUREE, FOR GARNITURE. No. 84. Use green Asparagus; break off the tender parts, wash them in cold water, drain and put them in a saucepan of boiling water, adding salt, faggot of parsley garnished, and two whole onions When cooked drain them and take the faggot and onions, put the Asparagus in a flat saucepan with a piece of butter, and sea- son with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and pinch of sugar; add two spoon- fulls of cream sauce, and one handful of bread crumbs, previously soaked in milk and pressed dry in a napkin; Let cook for ten min- utes, then rub through a fine sieve ; put the puree in a flat saucepan, reduce it with a little cream to its proper consistency, if necessary, add some color of spinach to give it a bright green color. Before serving add a piece of butter, stirring it well until melted. ASPARAGUS TOPS, FOR LARGE COLD GARNITURE. No. 85. Slice some Turnips three-eighths of an inch thick, then cut them with a round cutter two and a half inches in diameter, Cut out the centre one and a quarter inches in diameter, parboil them two minutes, and then immerse in cold water. Dry them on a nap- kin, fill each ring with Asparagus tops, cooked, but not too much THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 23 so. Cut two inches, or two and a half inches long; arrange in a tin pan so that they will stand up straight; set on ice to get cold, then mask with Aspic jelly. Carrot rings may be used, alternating with the Turnips. ASPARAGUS SALAD, PLAIN. No. 86. Prepare one pound of Asparagus tops as in No. 78. Cut them one inch in length. When cooked and drained put them into a salad bowl, and season with salt and pepper. Add some chop- ped parsley or chives, vinegar, and olive oil: Mix it carefully, not breaking the tops. ASPARAGUS SALAD, WITH SHRIMPS. No. 87. Prepare the Asparagus as in No. 78. Add one-half their quantity of picked shrimps, season with salt and pepper. Make separately, in a bowl, a sauce with the yolks of three hard boiled eggs. Bub them through a sieve, then put them in the bowl and add in slowly, while stirring with a wooden spoon, one glass of olive oil and a few drops of vinegar. Pour this over the salad, ar- range it properly and trim with hard boiled eggs cut into quarters. ASPARAGUS SALAD, WITH TRUFFLES, ROYAL. No. 88. Prepare the Asparagus as in No. 78. Add one-half their quantity of truffles, cut into a short Julienne. Season with salt, pepper, and add the juice of one lemon. Mix all gently to- gether, cover them and set in a cool place for one hour. When ready to serve garnish the salad with fine chopped eggs the yolks and the white alternating around the border, and slices of truffles which have been dipped in a reduced cold Madeira wine sauce. Make a crown in the centre and fill with Tartare sauce. SOUPS. PUREE ASPARAGUS, CONDE. No. 89. Take the tender part of ten pounds of Asparagus, wash them well and parboil for five minutes, then immerse them in cold water and drain them on a sieve. Then put them in a saucepan with one gallon of boiling chicken or veal broth, and add a faggot of parsley garnished with celery. Put this on a brisk fire, and when cooked drain them on a collander; take out the faggot, thicken the broth, and let boil slowly. Then add the Asparagus which you 24 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. pounded through the colander. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Let cook for twenty -five minutes, then rub it through a fine sieve, putting it back in saucepan to keep warm. Before serving add half a pound of butter, stirring it until the but- ter is melted. Serve with a plate full of small fried bread crumbs; PUREE ASPARAGUS, ROYAL. No. 90. Take ten pounds of the tender green part of the Aspara- gus, and when washed parboil them for four minutes, then immerse in cold water (to retain their green color). Drain them, and put them in a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of butter, then toss them in the pan gently over the fire, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little sugar. Add just enough white chicken or veal broth to cook them thoroughly, and a faggot of parsley. Let them boil until tender, and then pound the Asparagus through a colander, and then put into a saucepan with one gallon of thick- ened chicken or cream, in veal broth. Put it on the fire, stirring it until it boils, then set on side of fire to boil slowly for twenty-five minutes. Skim, and strain through a fine sieve, and then put back into the saucepan to keep warm. Before serving add four ounces of butter and a pint of which dilute the yolks of four raw eggs, while stirring the soup well. Serve with a garniture royal, cut into rings or in small dice shape. PUREE ASPARAGUS, ST. GEORGE. No. 91. Prepare the puree the same as No. 90. In place of a garniture royal add a garniture of Asparagus tops, with small balls of forced meat of chicken, the size of a large pea. CREAM ASPARAGUS, COUNTESS. No. 92. Cut the tender parts of ten pounds of Asparagus, and parboil them. Immerse them in cold water, drain them, and put them into a saucepan with boiling white broth, just enough to cook them. Season with salt and pepper, and add a faggot of parsley garnished with celery. When they are thoroughly cooked add two quarts cream sauce, a little nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Pound them through a colander, then rub through a fine sieve; put back in saucepan to keep warm (not letting it boil). Before serving add four ounces butter, a pint of cream, in which dilute the yolks of six raw eggs, stirring it well until the butter is melted. Serve with a garniture of Asparagus tops, and add some green color of spinach to this soup, as it must be of a bright green color. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 25 ASPARAGUS, PRESEEVED IN SALT. No. 93. Pick out middle sized, sound and fresh cut Asparagus, Put into the bottom of a square water-tight wooden box, which you intend filling, a layer of salt, then a layer of Asparagus, then a layer of salt, a layer of Asparagus, continuing until filled. On the top layer have the salt one-half an inch thick, and have a wooden cover to fit closely on the box, with a weight on top to keep it pressed down, and keep them in a cool dry place. When ready to use them soak them for three hours in cold water, then scrape them the ordinary way, and put them to soak in lukewarm water for five hours, changing the' water occasionally, then cook them as required. ASPARAGUS, PRESERVED IN CANS. No. 94. Square boxes, the size of the Asparagus, are much bet- ter than the round high boxes generally used by factories. When the boxes are properly made they can be used several times for the same purpose. Each box should contain from twenty-five to thirty Asparagus. After the Asparagus stems are scraped, wash them in cold water, tie them in bundles, and cut them all the same size. Parboil them for five minutes in water lightly salted, then immerse them in cold water, drain them and put on a linen towel to dry- Then arrange them in boxes so that the bottom half will have their heads towards the right, and the top half will have their heads to- wards the left. Cover them with cold boiled water, lightly salted; solder on the cover and boil the cans in a hot bath for one and one- half hours. ASPARAGUS TOPS, PRESERVED. No. 95. Use fresh green Asparagus, and all the same size. Cut off the heads and keep them separate. Then cut the remaining tender part the size of a large pea. Parboil the heads one minute and the others five minutes. Immerse them in cold water, then drain them and dry on a napkin. Mix them together and put them into round quart tin cans. Cover them with cold boiled water, lightly salted; solder on the cover and boil them in a hot water bath for one hour. ASPARAGUS SYRUP. No. 96. Cut off the tender part of four bunches of Asparagus, and wash them well in cold water. Put them in a saucepan with one gallon of water, letting them cook until it is reduced to five pints of water. Drain them and then strain the liquid through a flannel fil- ter, adding four pounds of cube sugar. Cook to a syrup of 32 de- grees, and when cold put in bottles, corked tight. 26 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. x. French ASPARAGUS BEAN. German Haricot Asperge. Spargel Bohne. No. 97. The Asparagus Bean is a distinct variety from the gar- den bean, being a native of the southern part of South America and China. The pods measure over one foot in length, and the beans are cultivated on account of their long pods, which are crisp and tender, having a rich flavor, and being much esteemed for pickling. The seeds are quite small, and are seldom eaten in their green or ripe state. ARTICLB xi. BALM. Baume. Melisse. No. 98. Balm is a hardy perennial aromatic plant. Originally from the southern part of Europe. The leaves have a fragrant odor, similar to lemons, and are used for making Balm Tea, for use in fever, and makes a pleasant beverage of Balm wine for diseases of the lungs, being also used in seasoning meats and for flavoring vinegar. A mixture of Balm and honey is sometimes applied to the interior of bee hives just previous to receiving the swarm for the purpose of their settlement, to attract them. CULTURE. No. 99. Prepare a rich sandy soil and keep it clear of weeds. Plant early and thin to ten inches apart. The plants will soon completely cover the ground, and the bed with good management will last several years. When drying, the plants should be cut as they come into bloom, separating the stems at the surface of the ground. Spread them in an airy shady place and allow them to dry gradually. The leaves may be used in their green state directly from the plants, as they are required. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 27 XII. French BALM MINT. German Melisse. Melisse. No. 100. The Balm Mint is a hardy perennial aromatic plant, similar to the Balm, but different in flavor, being often taken for Mint, on account of its flavor. It is used for seasoning game and flavoring vinegar and spirituous waters. Culture same as Balm. ARTICLB xi 1 1. BARLEY. Orge. Oerste. No. 101. The common Barley is a cereal, the flour obtained from its grains containing very little gluten, but an abundance of fecula, also containing a mucilaginous substance. For this reason it produces a bread less savory and less digestible than other flours. The Pearl Barley, when entirely removed of its pellicle, is reduced to a small pearl. It is much used for culinary purposes in replac- ing rice, and also in making soups for invalids. COMMON BARLEY. No. 102. Barley succeeds best in lands more sandy and lighter than those adapted to wheat. It is sown in the spring and can be grown further north than any other grain. Unless intended for seed, it should be cut before being fully ripe, as it is then heavier, of better quality, and less liable to shell. The land should always be rolled immediately after sowing. BARLEY MANSURY. No. 103. This is a six-rowed Barley with long, heavy well filled heads, containing large plump grains. The straw is bright, very strong, and is not apt to lodge even in the richest lands. Ripens a week later than the common six-rowed Barley, or about the same time as two-rowed Barley. 28 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. BARLEY NAKED, OR HULLNESS. No. 104. This is a peculiar grain, and not generally known. The corolla is not attached to the grain, and in this it resembles wheat. It is a splendid grain for all the purposes for which Barley is used, and will make an excellent bread when bolted and ground like wheat. SOUPS. CREAM BARLEY, NEILSON STYLE. No. 105. Put in a saucepan half a pound of butter, and when melted add a handful of flour and four handfuls of Pearl Barley, stirring it with a wooden spoon for fifteen minutes. Then add in slowly one gallon of veal or chicken broth; make it boil, and then set on the side of the fire to boil slowly, adding a faggot of parsley garnished, with two leeks and two green onions. Season with salt and pepper, and let it boil slowly for an hour and a half. Then skim off the grease and take out the faggot. Strain it through a fine sieve and put back in saucepan to keep warm. When ready to serve add the following preparation: Take a pint of cream and the yolks of six raw eggs, mix them well, and strain through a strainer. Add six ounces of butter, stirring it well until the butter is melted. Serve with a garniture royal. CREAM BARLEY, MARIE LOUISE STYLE. No. 106. Prepare the soup same as No. 105. When moistened with the broth and it boils add two raw chickens, letting them boil slowly until they are cooked. Then take out the chickens and the faggot, skim off the grease and strain through a fine sieve. Season with salt and pepper and set on the fire to keep warm. Take the breasts of the chickens and pound them into a fine paste with six ounces of butter. Then rub it through a fine sieve and put it in a saucepan, adding a pint of cream, the yolks of six eggs and a pinch of sugar. Then add the hot soup slowly while stirring briskly with a whisk. Serve with a garniture of green peas. CREAM OP BARLEY, FARRAGUT STYLE. No. 107. Prepare the soup in a similar way to No. 105. When strained set it on the fire to keep warm, and when ready to serve add six ounces of crawfish butter, diluted in their broth, the yolks of six raw eggs and a glass of cream, stirring well until the butter is melted. Serve with a garniture of fried peas. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 29 BAELEY BROTH FOE INVALIDS. No. 108. Wash two handfuls of Pearl Barley in cold water. Put in a saucepan on the fire with three quarts of plain chicken broth, and let it boil slowly for two hours. Press the liquid through a fine sieve and season lightly. When common Barley is used for these recipes put on the fire with cold water, and as soon as it boils strain off and proceed as with Pearl Barley. BAELEY WATEE FOE INVALIDS. No. 109. Prepare same as No. 108. Use water instead of broth. When cooked press the liquid through a fine sieve. Serve plain or sweeten with sugar. BARLEY CREAM FOR INVALIDS. No. 110. Prepare the Barley as in No. 108. Use milk in place of broth. When well cooked press the liquid through a fine sieve and sweeten with a syrup of marsh mallow or venus hair. BAELEY WATEE FOE GAEGLING. No. 111. When Barley water is made for gargling with briar leaves and honey, use the plain common Barley without changing the fresh water as with No. 108. When the Barley water is made pour it boiling over the briar leaves, then add a soup spoonful of honey and one of wine vinegar. XIV. French BASIL SWEET. German Basilic. Basilikum. No. 112. There are four kinds of Basil. The large sweet Basil is the one principally used for culinary purposes. It is a hardy annual plant, and must be cut before it gets in full bloom. The seeds and stems are dried and used for flavoring soups and sauces, etc. It is also used when young and tender to mix with cooked vegetable salads, such as potatoes, beets, peas, beans, etc. 30 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. CULTURE. No. 113. All the varieties are annual and grow from seed. Sow as early as the ground will permit, in sandy soil carefully prepared. For winter use the stalks are cut while in flower, then dried, pow- dered and preserved as other pot herbs. xv. BAY LEAVES, OR LAUREL LEAVES (Common). French German Laurier Franc ou dappolon. Lorbeerblatt. No. 114. These leaves are much used for culinary purposes, be- ing indispensable for stews, etc.. For these purposes they should be used in their dry state, as they then lose their bitter taste. In their green state they are used for pickling, and in imparting an aromatic taste to meats. XVI. BAY OR LAUREL LEAVES (Larustine). Laurier Amande. Lorbeerblatt. No. 115. These are not used much for culinary purposes, but in dairies they are frequently used to aromatize the milk. They should be used with precaution. Although they give an agreeable taste to the milk they are dangerous to use, being slightly poisonous. XVII. BEANS. Haricot. Bohne. No. 116. This is a vegetable of which there are many varieties. They are prepared for the table in several different ways. Some varieties, when young and tender, are eaten whole, and are known THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 31 as String Beans. Later on they get hulled, when the seeds are ripe, and are called the Shell Bean (French, Flageolet). Next they are dried and then prepared in various ways. The White Marrow Fat, the Golden Wax, and the Dwarf Soisson are among the best varie- ties. To have Beans well cooked pure water must be used, some varieties having hard shells, which will not boil tender. This can be remedied by adding some carbonate of soda while they are being boiled. For early cultivation the American Garden Bush Bean is the earliest and hardfest. The Garden Bush or Pole Running Beans are tender annual plants, originally from the East Indies. The dwarf varieties require no poles or sticks for their support. CULTURE OF THE DWARF OR BUSH BEAN. No. 117. A succession of sowing can be made according to the latitude. Plant in drills about two inches deep, and from eighteen inches to two feet apart, according to the richness of the soil. EARLY FEEGEE. No. 118. The earliest variety and very prolific. EARLY RED VALENTINE. No. 119. Tender and succulent, and of excellent flavor. They continue longer in their green state than most varieties. WHITE VALENTINE. No. 120. Similar in growth to the red valentine. It is a very prolific bearer, and the fact of the bean being white gives it addi- tional value, as it enables it to be used as a shell bean. GALLEGA, OR LARGE REFUGEE. No. 121. A standard sort for market or private use. Is very prolific; pods and beans are large. EARLY MOHAWK. No. 122. An excellent early variety, very productive, and of good quality. 32 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. BLACK WAX, OR BUTTER. No. 123. The pods when ripe are of a waxy yellow transparent color, very tender, excellent, and delicious. WHITE WAX. No. 124. A variety similar to the black wax, except in color. IVORY POT WAX. No. 125. The pods are long, and almost of a transparent waxy white color, and are entirely stringless. In tenderness it excels almost all the other kinds. The beans when ripe are of medium size, white, and oval. It is an excellent Shell Bean for winter use. CANADIAN WONDER. No. 126. Produce very large pods with great abundance; very fleshy, and exceedingly tender when cooked. GOLDEN REFUGEE. No. 127. Pods perfectly round, and of a very light color. It is particularly well suited for pickling. CRYSTAL WHITE WAX. No. 128. Produces pods of fair size of exceedingly rich and ten- der flavor. In color waxy white, and almost as transparent as glass. It is a stringless variety, very productive, and the pods though quick to develop are slow to harden. GOLDEN WAX. No. 129. Is an entirely different variety, the pods are large, log, and brittle, and entirely stringless. As a snap bean it excels all others in ridhness and tenderness of flavor, and has the further merit of being one of the best shell beans grown for winter use. REFUGEE OR A THOUSAND TO ONE. No. 130. Very productive, though not early. The young pods are extremely tender and of fine flavor. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 33 LARGE WHITE KIDNEY. No. 131. An excellent shell bean, green or ripe. WHITE MARROWFAT. No. 132. Extensively grown for dry state. Of average quality as a string bean, but excellent when shelled either green or dry. DWARF SOISSON. No. 133. Is an early variety. They blossom six weeks after planting. Can be used with pods after seven weeks, and ripen in ninety days. The seeds are white kidney shaped, often flattened, bent, or distorted. They are productive, and the young pods are of fair quality. The seeds are excellent, whether used green or ripe. The skin is thin. They are much esteemed for their white- ness and delicate flavor. BEANS, POLE RUNNING. No. 134. They are more tender and require rather more care in culture than the Bush Beans. They succeed best in sandy loam, which should be liberally enriched with short manure in the hills, which are formed according to the variety, from three to four feet apart. LARGE WHITE LIMA. No. 135. They are considered the best of all the Pole Beans, and are almost universally grown. SMALL LIMA, OR SIEVA. No. 136. It is earlier and more hardy than the large White Lima. DREER'S IMPROVED LIMA. No. 137. This is an extra quality of bean which matures early, and yields largely. It produces more shelled beans to the pole than the large Lima. DUTCH CASE KNIFE. . No. 138. A very productive variety, and one of the earliest.. Sometimes used as a snap bean, but generally shelled. 3 34 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. t SPECKLED CRANBERRY. No. 139. A popular variety, serviceable in its green state or when shelled. SCARLET RUNNER. No. 140. A great favorite in gardens, both as an ornamental plant and useful vegetable. GIANT WAX. No. 141. Pods long and clear, with a waxy color, thick and fleshy, and very productive When cooked they are tender and delicious. GERMAN WAX POLE. No. 142. One of the best varieties, either for snap or shelled in the green state. French BEANS, ENGLISH OR BROAD. crman feve. Gartenbuhne. No. 143. This class is very hardy, and is said to be the most ancient of all esculents. It originated in Egypt. Should be planted as soon as the soil is in good condition, in Spring. Plant four inches apart and two inches deep, in drills four feet apart. To insure well filled pods, pinch off the tops as soon as the lower pods begin to set. In their young state they are best for the table, being then digestible. When old the skin must be removed, else they are hard to digest. EARLY MAZAGAN. No. 144. A very early and healthy variety. BROAD WINDSOR. No. 145. Best for general use. Suitable for field and garden culture. SWORD LONG POD. No. 146. An excellent variety, similar to the Broad Windsor. HOW TO PREPARE STRING BEANS FOR COOKING. No. 147. To have good beans they must be perfectly fresh. Break off the ends and string them carefully, or pare both edges, THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 35 to be certain that none of the tough fibre remains (this should be done carefully and at all times). Wash them in cold water. When young and small leave them whole. When large split the beans lengthwise, or cut them in pieces an inch long. STRING BEANS, ENGLISH STYLE. No. 148. Prepare the Beans as in No. 147, and when ready for cooking throw them in boiling water, lightly salted. Boil them on a brisk fire until tender (never cover the pot while cooking beans, as that has a tendency to tinge them yellow). Drain them on a colander and serve them with a piece of butter in the centre and a piece on top. STRING BEANS, MAITEE D' HOTEL. No. 149. Cook them as in No. 148. When done immerse them in cold water. Drain them on a colander and place them on a nap- kin to absorb all the moisture. Put them in a fiat saucepan with a piece of butter, and season with salt and pepper. Toss them over the fire until thoroughly warm, and then add a little fine chopped parsley and a few drops of lemon juice. STRING BEANS, WITH FINE HERBS. No. 150. Prepare the Beans as in No, 148. Put in a flat sauce- pan a piece of butter, two fine chopped shallots, and fry them lightly. Add the String Beans, and season with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg. Toss them over the fire until thoroughly warmed, then take them off of the fire and add a piece of butter, some fine chopped parsley, and a few drops of lemon juice tossing them over until the butter is melted. STRING BEANS, LYONNAISE. No. 151. When the Beans are prepared as in No. 148, put in a flat saucepan a piece of butter, one onion cut in half and sliced fine. Fry lightly and then add the Beans. Season with salt and pepper, and add two spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce. Toss them over the fire, and when serving add a little fine chopped parsley. STRING BEANS, POULETTE. No. 152. When the Beans are prepared as in No. 148, put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with salt, pepper, 36 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. and nutmeg. When thoroughly warmed add two spoonfuls of Allemande sauce. Toss them well together, and when ready to serve add a few drops of lemon juice and some fine chopped parsley. STRING BEANS, BRETONNE. No. 153. Prepare the Beans as in No. 148. Cut two onions in half y trim off the ends, and slice them fine. Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and fry them to a light brown. Then add four spoonfuls of vinegar, and cook until it is two-thirds reduced. Then add four spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce, the Beans, and season with salt and pepper, and cover the saucepan, letting them simmer slowly for twenty minutes. STRING BEANS, GERMAN STYLE. No. 154. Put in a saucepan a piece of butter, and add one fine sliced onion. .Fry lightly. Add young Beans, and season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar, and add a faggot of parsley garnished, and two spoonfuls of white broth. Cover the saucepan, and let. them simmer for fifteen minutes. Then sprinkle a little flour over them, tossing them over well and cooking for fifteen minutes longer. STRING BEANS, WITH CREAM. No. 155. Prepare the Beans as in No. 148. Put them in a flat saucepan with some fine scraped fresh fat pork. Season with salt and pepper and add a faggot of parsley. Let them simmer slowly for half an hour, and when ready to serve add a glass of cream, into which dilute the yolks of two raw eggs and a piece of butter. Toss them well together. Take out the faggot and then serve. STRING BEANS, COUNTRY STYLE. No. 156. Prepare the Beans as in No. 148, then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Add some fine chopped parsley and chives. Sprinkle them with flour. Toss them over and add some broth. Let them simmer for half an hour, and when the moisture is nearly reduced, add a glass of milk, into which dilute the yolks of two raw eggs. Mix all well together and serve with pieces of sliced fat pork cooked separately. STEING BEANS, PRESERVED IN SALT. No. 157. Use small fresh plucked Beans. Cut off the ends and string them. Parboil them for two minutes in plenty of water. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 37 Immerse them in cold water and drain them on a sieve, then dry them on a towel. Put in a keg or barrel a layer of salt, then one of Beans, alternating until the keg or barrel is full. Put on the cover to press them. Fill up next day with Beans, as they will have settled. If they show too much water, drain half off and add more salt. Cover with a cloth and put the top on tight. Keep in a cool place. STRING BEANS, PRESERVED IN BRINE. No. 158. Prepare the Beans as in No. 157. Put them in layers in a glass jar and then cover them with strong cooked brine. Twenty -four hours after drain off the brine, boil it, add more salt, and when cold pour it over th'e Beans. Three days after this boil the brine again, adding salt, and when cold pour it over the Beans again, cover them tight and keep in a cool place. STRING BEANS, PRESERVED IN CANS. No. 159. Prepare the Beans as in Xo. 157, and when dried ar- range them in layers in tin cans holding one pound of Beans. Boil some water, lightly salted, and when cold cover the Beans, solder on the cover, and boil in a hot water bath for an hour and a quarter. HOW TO PREPARE SALTED STRING BEANS FOR COOKING. No. 160. Soak them in cold water for four hours, changing the water once or twice. Then put them with fresh water on the lire to warm slowly. When the water intends to boil, drain it off and put on fresh cold water and let them boil. Cook until tender and prepare as needed. STRING BEAN SALAD. No. 161. Cook some small String Beans as in No. 148. When cold put them in a salad bowl with some fine sliced cooked onions. Season with salt, pepper, vinegar and oil, and add some fine chopped parsley. Mix all together without breaking the Beans, and garnish with beets cut in rounds. STRING BEAN SALAD, GERMAN STYLE. No. 162. Prepare same as in No. 161. Garnish with fillet of anchovies around the border, and cover the centre with a Eemou- lade sauce. STRING BEANS FOR GARNITURE. No. 163. String Beans, when used for large garniture, are cook. d as in No. 148, immersed in cold water, then thoroughly warmed 38 HARDEK'S AMERICAN COOKERY. and seasoned. Dress them in bunches, alternating with other vegetables. For small garniture, cut them diamond shape an inch long, and boil them the usual way. Then put them in a sauce-pan with a piece of butter. Season and toss them over the fire for a few min- utes. Dress plain or with sauce as may be desired. Care should be taken in cooking to keep them green. In order to do this, instructions as given in No. 148 must be taken. WAX BEANS, MAITRE D'HOTEL. No. 164. "When the Beans are shelled wash them in cold water; then put them in boiling water on a i brisk fire. Have the water lightly salted, and add a small piece of butter. When cooked drain them, and put them into a saucepan with a few spoonfuls of Allemande sauce. Season, and toss them until well mixed before serving, and add a little fine chopped parsley and a piece of butter. Serve hot. WHITE OR KIDNEY BEANS, WITH PUREE OF ONIONS, SOUBISE. No. 165. Cook the Beans as in No. 164, and when cooked put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with salt and pepper, and add a few spoonfuls of puree, of onions, white or brown. Let them simmer for fifteen minutes, and in serving garnish with scallops of Artichokes around the dish. WHITE BEANS, COUNTRY STYLE. No. 166. After the Beans are shelled and washed, put them into a saucepan to boil, and add a piece of butter and a little salt. When done drain them and then put in a saucepan a piece of but- ter. Add the Beans, season with salt and pepper, and add a little fine chopped parsley and chives. Toss them well together, and if they should get too thick add a little broth. GREEN FLAGEOLET BEANS, MAITRE D*HOTEL. No. 167. Prepare the same as White Beans in No. 164, and after they are boiled immerse them in cold water. Drain them and keep in a cool place for use when needed. GREEN FLAGEOLET BBsVNS, GERMAN STALE. No. 168. When the Beans are boiled drain them. Then put them into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter and season with THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 39 salt and pepper. Toss them over the fire, adding two spoonfuls of Allemande sauce, and in seasoning sprinkle a little fine chopped parsley over them. GREEN FLAGEOLET BEANS, WITH STRING BEANS. No. 169. When the Flageolet Beans are boiled, drain them. Then have the same quantity of string beans, cut diamond shape (the same size as the Flageolet Beans), boiled and drained. Put both of them into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter, and season with salt and pepper. Toss them over the fire until thoroughly warmed; after which add two spoonfuls of cream sauce and some fine chopped parsley. PUREE OF NEW BEANS FOR GARNITURE. No. 170. Shell as many Beans as needed. Boil them as soon as they are shelled, in water lightly salted, with a faggot of parsley garnished with green onions. When the Beans are cooked, drain them on a colander. Take out the faggot and put the Beans into a saucepan with a few spoonfuls of cream or Allemande sauce. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and when well mixed rub them through a fine sieve. Then put the puree in a^flat saucepan to reduce it. If needed, add a pinch of sugar and a piece of butter before serving. PUREE OF GREEN FLAGEOLET BEANS FOB GARNITURE. No. 171. Prepare and cook as in No. 170. Rub them through a fine sieve, and reduce in a flat saucepan to its proper consistency. Add a little glaze and butter before serving. FLAGEOLET BEANS PRESERVED IN CANS. No. 172. The green shelled Flageolet Beans are the best. Pluck them while young and tender. Wash them and then parboil them in water, lightly salted, until three-quarters cooked. Drain them in a colander and spread them on a towel, and when cold place them in cans holding a pint. Boil some water, lightly salted, and when cold cover the Beans with it. Add to each can a pinch of carbonate of soda. Solder on the cover and then boil in a hot water bath for one hour. DRY WHITE BEANS, MAITRE D'HOTEL. No. 173. All dry beans must be carefully picked and then washed in cold water. Soak the quantity needed in cold water over night, 40 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. then drain them the next day and put them in a saucepan, having them well covered with water. When they boil add a piece of bacon or salt pork (previously parboiled for a few minutes). Cover the saucepan and let the Beans cook continuously and slowly until tender. Then take out the pork or bacon and drain half of the liquid from the Beans. Season with pepper and salt, and, if needed, add a piece of butter with fine chopped parsley. Toss them well over until the butter is melted. DRY WHITE BEANS, GERMAN STYLE. No. 174. Cook them the same as in No. 173, and when done drain off the broth. Add Allemaude or butter sauce and mix well. When serving add fine chopped parsley, and slice the bacon or pork to garnish the dish. DRY WHITE BEANS, WITH CREAM SAUCE. No. 175. Cook the Beans as in No. 173. When cooked drain them and put them in a saucepan with Cream sauce. Season well and let them simmer for ten minutes. DRY WHITE BEANS, BRETON XE. v No. 176. Cook the Beans as in No. 173, and when cooked drain them, in a colander. Put in a saucepan two onions, cut in half and sliced fine. Fry them in butter to a light brown color, and add a wine-glassful of vinegar; and when reduced one-third add a few spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce and the Beans. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the saucepan and let it simmer for half an hour. DRY WHITE BEANS, ROBERT. No. 177. Cook the Beans as in No 173, and when cooked drain them in a colander. Put into a saucepan a piece of butter and two fine chopped onions. Fry them lightly and drain off the butter. Add three teaspoonfuls of mustard flour, diluted with four large spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce. Then add one quart of the Beans and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Cover the saucepan and let it simmer for twenty minutes. Before serving add a piece of butter and toss the Beans well over until it is melted. DRY WHITE BEANS, WITH BACON. No. 178. Pick and wash two quarts of white Beans, and soak them as usual. Then put them in a saucepan with one pound of THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 41 bacon cut in square pieces. Have the whole well covered with water. Season with salt and pepper, then cover the saucepan, and let them boil slowly. This is a simple but very nourishing dish. DRY WHITE BEANS, WITH MARROW. No. 179. When the Beans are cooked, as in No. 173, drain them in a colander. Put into a flat saucepan some marrow cut in small pieces. Fry it lightly, and then add the Beans. Season well, adding some fine chopped chives, tossing the whole well together, and serve immediately. HOW TO BAKE BEANS IN POTS. No. 180, Pick two quarts of Beans. Wash them in cold water and let them soak in fresh water over night. Them drain them and put them in a saucepan with fresh water. Add two pounds of salt pork (previously washed). Let them boil for half an hour and drain them in a colander. Put the Beans in a pan and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Add four spoonfuls of molasses, mixing it well with the Beans. Then put the Beans in earthen pots with a piece of the pork in the centre of each pot of Beans. Moisten with enough boiling water to cover them, and place them in an oven to bake slowly over night. DRY WHITE BEAN SALAD. No. 181. When the Beans are cooked as in No. 173, drain them, and when cold put one quart of Beans in a salad bowl, with two fine chopped onions, which you will have parboiled for two minutes and immersed in cold water, and then pressed dry in a napkin. Season with salt, pepper, vinegar and a little oil, adding some chopped parsley or chives. Mix the whole well together, and garnish with beets and eggs. DRY WHITE BEANS FOR GARNITURE. No. 182. When the Beans are cooked as in No. 173, drain them and- put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with salt and pepper. Toss them over the fire and add some fine chopped parsley, or with butter, Cream, Allemande or Espagnole sauce if desired. PUREE OF DRY WHITE BEANS WHITE. No. 183. Cook the Beans the same as in No. 173, and drain them in a colander. Put in a saucepan one white onion chopped fine, 42 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. and fry it lightly. Add one quart of the Beans with four spoonfuls of Allemande or Cream sauce. Season wiih salt and pepper, and rub the puree through a fine sieve. Then put it back into a sauce- pan to keep warm, and before serving, put in a piece of butter, at the same time stirring the puree well up. PUREE OF DRY WHITE BEANS BROWN. No. 184. Prepare the same way as in No. 183 but in place of Allemande or Cream sauce, use Espagnole sauce, with an essence of ham or game. PUREE OF DRY WHITE BEANS, WITH CELERY. No. 185. Prepare the puree the same as in No. 173, and when rubbed through a sieve put it into a flat saucepan and reduce it to its consistency with one glass of cream. Prepare separately a small cut Julienne of celery, cooked and glazed, and when done add it to the puree. RED BEANS, BOURGUIGNONNE. No. 186. After the Beans are washed and cleaned put them into a saucepan with two onions, two carrots, a faggot of parsley well garnished, and a piece of lean bacon. Moisten to cover with cold water. Make it boil, then skim and let it cook slowly. When the Beans are three-quarters cooked take out the onions, carrots and faggot, and drain off half the moisture. Add the same quantity of claret wine. Cover the saucepan and let them simmer slowly until cooked. Before serving add a piece of butter, tossing them well over, and serve with the bacon sliced. RED BEANS, CARDINAL FOR FAST DAYS. No. 187. Prepare the Beans the same as in No. 173, leaving out the bacon, and when the Beans are done dish them up with turnovers of fish as a garniture. RED BEANS, DONOHOE STYLE FOR FAST DAYS. No. 188. Cook the Beans the same as in No. 173, leaving out the bacon; and when the Beans are cooked dish them with a garniture of fried oysters, shad roes, or milts of carp. BLACK BEANS, WITH BUTTER. No. 189. Wash and clean the Beans well. Cook them the same as in No. 173, and when done put them in a saucepan with a piece THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 43 of butter, tossing them well over the fire, seasoning them with salt and pepper. BEOAD BEANS. No. 190. Are best when young and prepared the same as the other Beans. After they are boiled drain them and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar. Toss them over the fire and serve. BROAD BEANS, WITH CREAM POULETTE. No. 191. When shelled, wash them. Boil them as usual, then immerse them in cold water and drain them in a colander. Put into a saucepan four ounces of butter and the same quantity of flour. Stir with a wooden spoon and allow it to cook for ten minutes. Dilute the butter and flour with one quart of white broth and add the Beans. Season with salt and pepper, and add a faggot of pars- ley garnished with a sprig of summer savory. Let the whole simmer slowly for twenty minutes. Before serving add a glassful of cream, letting it boil up once, and serve with some fine chopped parsley thrown over the Beans. LIMA BEANS. No. 192. When shelled should be allowed to lay in cold water a short time before cooking. Boil them on a brisk fire in plenty of water, lightly salted, until tender. Then drain them and return them to the saucepan. Add a piece of butter, salt and pepper, toss- ing the whole well together and serve. LIMA BEANS, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. No. 193. When cooked and drained as in No. 192, add a few spoonfuls of Butter sauce. Season with salt, pepper, the juice of one lemon and add a little fine chopped parsley. Toss them well over the fire and serve. LIMA BEANS, FRENCH STYLE. No. 194. Cook the Beans the same as in No. 192, and before serving add a glass of cream, into which dilute the yolks of three raw eggs and a piece of butter. Toss the whole well together over the fire and serve with fine chopped parsley over them. 44 HAKDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. LIMA BEANS, MACEDOINE. No. 195. Put into a saucepan a piece of butter, two fine chopped shallots and a handful of sliced fresh mushrooms. Cover the saucepan and cook them lightly. Then add two soup spoonfuls of flour and dilute the whole with a pint of white broth, stirring it so as to have no lumps. Add a faggot of parsley, garnished with summer savory. Put with this two quarts of the Beans (previously boiled as in No. 192) and put on the lid and let them simmer slowly for twenty minutes. Take out the faggot and add a quarter of its quantity of boiled artichoke bottoms cut into pieces the size of the Beans. Season with salt and pepper. Allow them to simmer for ten minutes longer and before serving add a little line chopped parsley or chives. SOUPS. PUREE OF GREEN FLAGEOLET BEANS, SAINT GERMAIN. No. 196. Take one quart of Green Flageolet Beans and put them in a saucepan with two quarts of boiling water lightly salted. Add a piece of butter and a faggot of parsley garnished with leeks. Cook them on a brisk tire, and when tender drain them. Then return the Beans to the saucepan and add two quarts of thick- ened chicken or veal broth. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Let them cook slowly for twenty minutes. Then skim it well, take out the faggot and rub the soup through a fine sieve. Put it back in a saucepan to keep warm, and before serving add a piece of butter, stirring it well until melted. Serve with boiled rice separately. PUREE OF GREEN FLAGEOLET BEANS, SOUBISE. No. 197. Cook the Beans as in No. 196, and when cooked, drain and return them to the saucepan, adding one quart of cream and one pint of Soubise sauce diluted to its proper consistency with chicken broth. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Hub it through a fine sieve and return it to the saucepan to keep warm (not letting it boil). Before serving, add a piece of butter and some fine cut chives. Serve separately with small fried bread crumbs. PUREE OF FRESH WHITE BEANS, NEWTON STYLE. No. 198. Prepare the puree the same as in No. 196, and before serving add a pint of cream, into which dilute the yolks of four raw THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 45 eggs, and a piece of butter, stirring the puree well. Add some fine cut chives or parsley. Serve with a garniture of forced meat of chicken, rolled into balls of the size of a pea, poached separately in broth. PUREE OF FRESH BLACK BEANS, FAUBONNE. No. 199. Prepare the puree the same as in No. 196. Add a thick- ened beef broth, and when ready to serve add a garniture of small vegetables, cut with a spoon cutter, cooked and glazed. CREAM OF GREEN FLAGEOLET BEANS, LELAND STYLE. No.. 200. Put one quart of Beans in a saucepan with two quarts, of boiling water. Add a faggot of parsley, garnished with celery and leeks, one onion, into which stick three cloves, one carrot, and a little salt. Cook on a brisk fire until done, and then take out the carrot, onion, and faggot, and add two quarts of Cream sauce,, rubbing the whole through a fine sieve. Put it back into a saucepan to keep warm. Season to taste, and before serving add a pint of cream, into which dilute the yolks of five raw eggs and a piece of butter, while stirring the soup well. Add to this soup some green of spinach, so as to give it a bright green color. Serve separately with some fried peas, as explained in the garniture for soups. PUREE OF DRY WHITE BEANS, PIONEER STYLE. No. 201 Take one quart of dry white Beans. Wash and pick them well, allowing them to soa,k overnight in cold water. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan with three quarts of fresh water, two quarts of broth, and one pound of salt pork (that has been previously washed and parboiled for five minutes), a piece of raw ham bone, two onions and two carrots. Cover the saucepan and cook slowly until well cooked. Then take out the pork, ham bone and carrots, and pound the soup through a fine colander. Put it back into the saucepan and season with salt and pepper, adding a piece of butter. Cut the pork into small square pieces and fry it, and when serving add it to the soup with small fried bread crumbs. PUREE OF DRY WHITE BEANS, ST. GEORGE. No. 202. Prepare it the same as in No. 201, leaving out the ham bone, and when cooked rub it through a fine sieve. Put it back into the saucepan to keep warm. When ready to serve add a pint of 46 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. cream, a piece of butter, some fine cut chives and fine chopped chervil. Serve separately with some fried bread crumbs. PUREE OF DRY RED BEANS, CONDE. No. 203. Take one quart of Beans. Pick and wash them well and then soak them for three hours in two quarts of fresh water. Drain them and put them into a saucepan with two quarts of water, and one of broth, and put them on the fire to boil. Add a faggot of parsley, garnished with leeks and celery, two carrots, two onions, into which stick four cloves, a piece of raw ham bone, and a little salt. Cover the saucepan and cook them slowly until thoroughly well done. Then take out the ham bone, the faggot, the onions, and the carrots, and pound the soup through a colander. Add two quarts of game broth and rub the whole through a fine sieve. Put it back into the saucepan and set it on the fire, stirring it well until it boils, then set it on the side of the fire and continue boiling slowly for half an hour. Skim it, and when ready to serve add a piece of butter. Serve with boiled rice or fried bread crumbs. PUREE OF BEANS, FOR FAST DAYS. No. 204. All of the purees of beans described in this book, may be prepared without using meats or broth, if desired. In this case use water, carrots, onions, leeks and celery, and a faggot of parsley, well garnished with herbs. When the beans are three-quarters cooked add to them the crumbs of a loaf of bread. When thoroughly cooked remove the faggot and carrots, leaving the leek, celery, and onions, if desired. Then rub the soup through a fine sieve and season it properly. NOTES ON BEANS. No. 205. When beans are boiled with salt pork they should not be seasoned too much, as the pork itself contains considerable salt. The pork should be washed in cold water and care taken not to use any that is rancid. When bacon is used, trim it and then parboil it for five minutes. Then immerse it in cold water to remove the smoky taste. Dry Beans should first be carefully picked, as there are always small stones and pieces of earth mixed with them. Wash them well in cold water, and allow them to soak in fresh water over night. When dry Beans are soaked in lukewarm water, and the water is several times renewed, they will cook much quicker than when soaked in cold water. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 47 ARTICLE XVI 1 1 Frci:cl BKEXS. German Betttravc. Runkel Rube. No. '206. The "Beet is a hardy biennial root plant of a blood-red color. It contains a large substance of sugar and is much used as a vegetable, for salads, and as a relish. It is refreshing and nu- tritious when properly prepared. There are five varieties of Beets. The Swiss chard, or sea-kale Beet, is a distinct vegetable and much superior to the common Beet for greens. If sown at the same time as the common varieties, it will be fit to use before them. Later on the plants form broad, flat, beautiful white and wax- like stems to the leaves, which are very delicious when cooked. The young leaves of the common varieties are cooked with sorrel, or cooked and prepared the same as spinach. Still another variety is called the mangel, which is seldom used for the table. CULTUEE. No. 207. The soil which is suitable for the culture of the Beet is that which is rather light than otherwise, provided always that it is thoroughly enriched by manure. Sow them in drills one foot apart and two inches deep. When the plants have attained three or four leaves then thin them out so they may stand five or six inches apart. Keep them free from weeds by hand weeding or hoeing. In October the roots may be taken up and stored in the cellar or in pits outside, like potatoes, care being taken that they are not bruised or injured in the process. EGYPTIAN BEET TUBNIP. No. 208. The earliest Beet and one of the leading market sorts, having a deep crimson color. BASTIAN'S BLOOD TUENIP. No. 209. An early variety of a blood red color, when properly cooked. DEWING'S BLOOD BEET. No. 210. The roots are of a deep blood red color. It is of fine form and flavor, very early and an excellent variety. 48 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. EARLY FLAT BASSANO. No. 211. Chiefly valuable for its earliness. LONG SMOOTH BLOOD RED. No. 212. An excellent late variety. EARLY YELLOW BEET. 213. Similar to the blood red, but different in color. The flesh is yellow, tender and sweet. PINE APPLE BEET. No. 214. A highly esteemed English variety of rich deep crim- son color. BRAZILIAN VARIEGATED. No. 215. Beautiful for garnishing and flower garden decoration. The stems and veins are richly colored with crimson, yellow and white. SWISS CHARD, OR SEA KALE BEET. No. 216. This variety is cultivated solely for its leaves. The midrib is stewed and served the same as asparagus, and the other parts of the leaves are used like spinach. If it is cut often, new and more tender leaves will be produced. HOW TO PREPARE BEETS FOR COOKING. No. 217, Beets when young are prepared as a vegetable for the table. They must be boiled whole, without having anything cut from them except the tops. These must always be cut an inch from the root and care taken not to injure the root, for if it is in any way injured the beet will lose its flavor and color. When boiled let them get cold, then peel or rub off the skin and prepare as needed. BOILED BEETS STEWED. No. 218. Boil the Beets, and when done skin and slice them. If large, cut them in two and put them in a saucepan. Season with salt and pepper and add a piece of butter, tossing them over the fire. Serve hot, or boil a glass of vinegar with a piece of butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, and pour it over the Beets. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 49 STEWED BEETS, HANOVERIAN STYLE. No. 219. Boil one dozen ordinary sized Beets and when done skin and slice them. Put into a saucepan one fine chopped white onion with a piece of butter. Fry it lightly and then add a Vine-glassful of vinegar. When it boils add the sliced beets and four ounces of butter. Season with salt and pepper. Toss them over occasionally until thoroughly warmed, and before serving add some fine chopped parsley. STEWED BEETS, WITH CREAM SAUCE. No. 220. Make a Cream sauce seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and coriander. Add the sliced Beets, and, when thoroughly warmed, serve them. STEWED BEETS, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. No. 221. Prepare the Beets as first described in No. 218. Add a few spoonfuls of Butter sauce, tossing them well over, and before serving add some fine chopped parsley. STEWED BEETS, ST. IGNATIUS. No. 222. Chop a white onion fine and put it into a saucepan with four ounces of butter. Fry it lightly and then add two soup spoonfuls .of flour. Cook to a light brown, while stirring it with a wooden spoon. Dilute this with a small wine-glassful of vinegar and some white broth to make a light sauce. Add three dozen young boiled Beets, cut into quarters, allowing them to simmer for fifteen minutes. ROAST BEETS. No. 223. Use medium sized Beets. Rub them with a towel well impregnated with brandy, lay them on a wire crate and place it into a roasting pan. This mode will permit them to cook more evenly, as it takes about six hours to have them properly done. The crust of the Beet will then be carbonized. In cooking- Beets in this manner all the sugary substance of the Beet concentrates in the center. It makes a most delicious dish, but is seldom prepared in this way in consequence of the time used in cooking. BEETS FOR GARNITURE. No. 224. When the Beets are boiled, rub off the skin and trim them. Place them whole in earthen jars, covering them with 4 50 HAEDEE'S AMEEICAN COOKEEY. vinegar, and when garnishing salads with them they are cut into various fancy shapes. BEET FEITTEES, CHAETEEUSE. No. 225. When the Beets are boiled, peel them and then slice them, but not too thin. Spread them on the table and cover half the sliced Beets with a thin slice of onion. Then season them with salt and a little nutmeg and sprinkle over them a little fine chopped parsley or chives. Then cover each of these with the other slices of Beets, pressing each of them well together. Dip them into frying batter and fry in hot lard. Drain them on a napkin and dish them up and garnish with fried parsley. NOTE. Burnet or chives finely chopped may be used with the parsley in seasoning them. BEET SUGAE. No. 226. Beets are largely cultivated -for the manufacture of sugar, which was first made about 1812, by a French chemist, dur- ing the blockade and siege of the First Empire. Beet sugar is cheaper than that made from the cane, but is not so profitable in its use. BEET JUJCE FOE SOUPS. No. 227. Beet juice is made for certain kinds of Polish soups, as is explained in the book on soups. Peel and cut in quarters enough of the finest kind of red beets to fill a small barrel. After putting them in the barrel pour in a sufficient quantity of cold water to cover them. Then put a linen cloth over the top and the cover over that. Place the barrel where the temperature is mild, to allow the liquid to ferment. In eight or ten days drain off the liquid and use it as directed. If bread crumbs or barley is used it will bring on fermentation much quicker. BEET SALAD WITH VEGETABLES. No. 228. Beets mixed with corn salad, lamb lettuce or celery make a fine salad. Youn^ Beets sliced, with an equal proportion of artichoke bottoms, potatoes, white beans and glazed onions, and seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar and olive oil, and nicely arranged in a salad bowl garnished with water cress, makes a fine breakfast salad. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 51 PICKLED BEETS. No. 229. When the Beets are boiled, slice them and lay them in jars, alternating each layer with sliced onions, a little horse- radish, and a few cloves. When the jar is full, cover them with vinegar. These pickled Beets are for immediate use. PICKLED BEETS FOB RELISHES, GERMAN STYLE. No. 230. When the Beets are boiled, peel them and cut them into slices one-eighth of an inch thick. Lay the slices in layers in an earthen jar, alternating each layer with some fine sliced onions, a few grains of pepper and coriander (or cumin if desired). When the jar is full, pour over the Beets some cold boiled vinegar, into which you add (while boiling it) four ounces of sugar to each quart of vinegar. Cover them tight and keep in a cool place. NOTE. If prepared with cumin, leave out the onions. BEETS TOR RELISHES, AMERICAN STYLE. No. 231. Slice fine four cold boiled Beets, and season them with salt and pepper. Dish them in relish dishes and set in a cool place. Mash the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs fine, and dilute them with two soup-spoonfuls of oil and vinegar. When ready to serve, pour the sauce over the Beets, and garnish with fine chopped hard-boiled eggs. XIX. Froitch BENE. German Ben. Bene. No. 232. Bene is said to have been introduced from Africa. It is a hardy annual plant, much used in the Southern States. The seeds are used for food (being first parched), stewed with meats, and are also used for puddings the same as rice. An oil is extracted from the seed, which does not easily become rancid, and is used for softening and whitening the skin. The leaves, if immersed in a tumbler of water, will convert it into a mucilaginous drink, very beneficial in cases of cholera-infantum and diarrhoea. 52 HAEDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. CULTURE. No. 233. Sow in spring, as soon as the weather is settled, in. rich, sandy soil, carefully prepared, and allow the plants to stand two feet apart, keeping the ground loose and free from weeds. The plant will yield a greater amount of herbage if the top is broken or cut off when three-quarters grown. BI-FOEMED LEAVED. No. 234. The plant is large. The lower leaves are two-parted,, while those of the upper part of the stalk are oval and entire. OVAL LEAVED. No. 235. The stem is about two feet high, with a few short branches. The leaves are oblong, and entire on the borders. TEI-FIDE LEAVED. No. 236. This is taller and more vigorous than the preceding kinds. The leaves are tri-fide, or three-parted. xx. French BOLETUS (Esculent). German Cepes. JMorcheln. No. 237. This is a variety of the Mushroom family, comprising only two species that are eatable. The Boletus etulis is very palatable, resembling the common mushroom in taste. The Boletus scaber is of good quality, when young and fresh, but is of little value when dried, as it loses much of its odor and be- comes insipid and unfit for use. For preparation, see Mushrooms. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 53 ARTICLE XXI. French BORAGE. German Bourrache. Boretsch. No. 238. Borage is a hardy annual plant, being used as a pot herb and for bee pasturage. The leaves, immersed in water, give an agreeable taste and flavor. It is used sometimes for medicinal purposes. The leaves when young are often used for salads. The flowers are dried in the shade and used for tisanes. The flower is star shaped, colored blue, white or red, and is occasionally used by female cooks to garnish dishes. CULTUEE. No. 239. Sow in April in rich sandy soil, carefully prepared, in drills ten inches apart and half an inch deep. The stalk and foliage contains a large proportion of nitre, and when dry they burn like match paper. ARTICLE: xxii. BRIAR LEAVES. Feuille die R'>nce. Brier Witter. No. 240. Briar Lsaves are used in diet drinks (tisanes) for colds and sore throats. The leaves are driei, placed in boxes, and kept in a dry place until used. ARTICLE xxill. BROCOLI. Choux Broccoli. Brocoli or Spargel KhL No. 241. Brocoli resembles cauliflower, but is more hardy. In parts of this country, where the winter is not severe, it is to be had from November to March. It is one of the best vegetables, has a fine flavor and is easily digested. There are two kinds, the 54 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. white and the purple. The Brocoli is not as compact as the cauliflower, its branches being longer and separate. It is prepared in all the styles that cauliflower is prepared in. CULTURE. No. 242. In the Northern States sow them in May and transplant in June. In the Southern States sow them in July and transplant in August, as they dislike summer heat more than cold weather. They succeed best in a moist and rather cool atmosphere. Sow in deep rich soil, with an abundance of moisture, which in dry seasons must be applied artificially. WHITE CAPE. No. 243. The heads are of medium size; close, compact, and of a creamy white color. One of the most certain to head. PURPLE CAPE. No. 2i4. One of the hardiest and most popular varieties, most certain to form a good head, and is the earliest of the purple varieties. BROCOLI, ITALIAN STYLE. * No. 245. Cut the flower buds of the Brocoli in small bunches, boil them in water, lightly salted, and when tender drain them. Put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter, and season with salt and pepper, tossing them over a brisk fire. Before serving them pour over them some Anchovy butter sauce, in which add the juice of a lemon and some finely chopped parsley. BROCOLI WITH HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. No. 246. Trim and boil them the same as in No. 245. When boiled drain them on a napkin, and then pour a Hollandaise sauce over them. Serve hot. BROCOLI FOR GARNITURE. No. 247. Cut the flower buds in small pieces and boil them as in No. 245. Drain them and serve them in bunches around the intended dish, with some reduced Cream or Allemande sauce over them. BROCOLI CREAM SOUP. No. 248. Prepare them the same as the soup of cream of cauli- flower. See article on Cauliflower. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 55 ARTICLE XXIV. French BROOKLINE OR SPEEDWELL. German Cresfinoe'e Veronigue. Wilde Kruosemunze. No. 249. Brookline is a hardy perennial plant, and grows naturally in ditches and streams of water. The stem is thick, smooth and succulent. It sends out roots at the joints, by which the plant spreads. The whole plant is used as a salad, in the same manner, and for the same purpose as water cress. It is excellent as an anti-scorbutic. XXV. BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Choux de Bruxelles. Sprossen Kohl. No. 250. Brussels Sprouts are small cabbage sprouts the size of a nut. They get green in the latter part of the fall, and are one of the best of winter vegetables, gradually becoming more and more appreciated in the United States. The plant grows from two to three feet in height, and produces from the axils of the leaves, an abundance of sprouts, which have an excellent and mild flavor. CULTUEE. No. 251. The culture is the same as for cabbage. If early plants are raised in hot beds they will perfect themselves in Sep- tember. When the winters are not very severe they may remain in the ground, to be cut as needed. TALL FRENCH. No. 252. A variety producing an abundance of sprouts. DWARF IMPROVED. No. 253. A variety producing compact sprouts of excellent quality. 56 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. HOW TO PREPARE BRUSSELS SPROUTS FOR COOKING. No. 254. Wash the Sprouts in plenty of cold water, take off the outer leaves, drain them and put them into a saucepan with boiling water lightly salted. Let them cook on a brisk fire until tender, and then immerse them in cold water, and when cold drain them, discarding the fallen leaves from the sprouts. If used as a garniture they should not be boiled as much as when used as a vegetable. BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH FINE HERBS. No. 255. After the sprouts are boiled as in No. 254, spread them on a pan and pick off the outer leaves. Put the sprouts into a saucepan with a piece of butter and season them with salt and pep- per. Warm them thoroughly and when ready to serve add some fine chopped parsley. BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH SAUCE. No. 256. After the sprouts are prepared as in Vo. 255, add some Allemande sauce, tossing them well together. Serve with some fine chopped parsley over them. BRUSSELS SPROUTS, SPANISH STYLE. No. 257. When the sprouts are boiled as in No. 254, put them into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter. Season them with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Toss them over the fire until thor- oughly warmed, then add some Espagnole sauce. Serve them with a garniture of roast chestnuts and small fried sausages around the dish. BRUSSELS SPROUTS FOR GARNITURE. No. 258. When the sprouts are boiled as in No. 254, put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season them with salt and pepper and toss them over the fire until thoroughly warmed. Dress them in bunches around the dish. BRUSSELS SPROUTS FOR GARNITURE, WITH BROILED MEATS. No. 259. Prepare them the same as in No. 254, adding some butter or Allemande sauce, the juice of a lemon and some fine chopped parsley. Serve in the center of the dish. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 57 PUKEE OF BKUSSELS SPROUTS FOR GARNITURE. No. 260. When the sprouts are boiled, drain them. Then put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season them with salt, pepper and a little nutmeg. Toss them over the fire, adding some Cream sauce. Should the sprouts not be of a bright green color add some green of spinach. Rub the whole through a fine sieve. Return them to the saucepan and add a piece of butter and a few drops of meat glaze. ARTICLE XXVI. BUCK'S-HORN, OR COCK'S-HEAD PLANTAIN. French German Plantain oil Corn de Serf. Paradiesfeiye. No. 261. This is a hardy annual. The root leaves are put forth horizontally, and spread regularly about a common center, somewhat in the form of a rosette. The plant is cultivated for its leaves, which are used as a salad. They should be plucked while young and tender, or when half-grown. CULTURE. No. 262. It succeeds best in soil comparatively light. Sow in April in shallow drills, eight inches apart. When the plants are about an inch high thin them to four inches apart. ARTICLE XXVII. BUCKWHEAT. Sarrasin ou ble noir. Buchweilzen. No. 263. Buckwheat originated in Asia, but it is now universally grown. It is easily cultivated, and in a favorable climate will produce two crops. Its use is healthful and nourishing, and it is easy of digestion, especially when boiled with milk. When cold, after having been boiled, it is cut in slices and fried. When the 58 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. Buckwheat flour is made into batter, it makes a winter breakfast dish well known to and appreciated by all Americans. Buckwheat, when made into bread, is only good while in its fresh state, for as soon as it becomes dry it splits, and on being cut, crumbles into small pieces and becomes hard to digest. COMMON BUCKWHEAT. No. 264. Buckwheat should be sown about the middle of June, and should be threshed as soon as it is dry, on the ground of a barn floor. If allowed to stand in mass it quickly gathers moisture. SILVER HULLED BUCKWHEAT. No. 265. This variety is a great improvement on the ordi- nary Buckwheat. Sown at the same time as the common Buck- wheat, it continues in bloom longer, matures earlier, and yields nearly double under the same conditions. The grain is of a beautiful light gray color, varying slightly in shade, and the corners are much less prominent than in the ordinary variety, while the husk is thinner, thereby saving twenty per cent, in the process of manufacturing into flour. BUCKWHEAT CAKES WITH YEAST. No. 266. Put three pounds of Buckwheat flour into a pan, and make a hole in the center of the flour. Pour into this three pints of water, two ounces of dissolved compressed yeast, and two tablespoonfuls of salt, and mix them slowly to make a light batter without lumps. Gather the sides together, cover the pan with a cloth and set it in a warm place overnight to raise. Next morning mix it up gently before baking. NOTE. When a little syrup is added to the batter in the morning, they will bake to a nicer color. A handful or two of corn meal is often added while mixing the Buckwheat flour. BUCKWHEAT CAKES WITH BAKING POWDER. No. 267. Put into a pan three pounds of Buckwheat flour and three soup-spoonfuls of baking powder. Mix them up well, and make a hole in the center of the flour, into which pour three pints of hike-warm water and two tablespoonfuls of salt and mix to a light batter. Ten minutes after mixing, bake it. Should the cakes not be light enough, add a little more baking powder, as the majority of baking powders are very unreliable. NOTE. There is to be had a prepared Buckwheat flour, which is much preferable for small families. This flour is easily prepared, it being only necessary to use luke-warm water and salt, but the batter must be used as soon as mixed. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 59 BAKING OF BUCKWHEAT CAKES. No. 268. Much depends on the cooking of the cakes to have them done properly. First, the griddle must always'be very clean, heated evenly, and should not be allowed to get burning hot. Grease it lightly with leaf lard, and drop enough batter to make ordinary sized cakes. Let them cook on one side before turning them, and serve them hot with sugar or syrup. ARTICLE XXVIII. French BUGLOSS. German Buglose. Ochseiizunge. No. 269. Bugloss is a medical and pot herb plant. It is used to make refreshing broths for invalids and in depuratives and apozems. The flower of the Bugloss is used for garnishing salads and cold relishes. CULTUKE. No. 270. Same as other pot herbs. XXIX. BURNET. Pimprenelle. Pimpinelle. No. 271. Is a hardy perennial plant. The leaves, proceeding directly from the root, are produced on long stems and are com- posed of from eleven to fifteen smaller leaves, which are of an oval form, regularly toothed, and not uniformly smooth. The leaves have a warm, piquant taste, and are used in salads and occasionally as an ingredient in soups. The roots, after being dried and pul- verized, are used in cases of internal hemorrhage. There are three varieties the hairy leaved, the large seeded, and the smooth leaved Burnet. CULTURE. No. 272. Same as other herbs. 60 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. xxx, French CABBAGE. German Choux pomme. Kopf kohl. No. 273. The Cabbage is a biennial plant and is propagated from seed sown annually. Cabbage is a plant extensively used and is prepared in various ways. It is very nutritious and there are many varieties. The white, the green and the red may be had all the year round. The cauliflower, brocoli, Brussels sprouts and kale all belong to the Cabbage family. Cabbage should be well cooked, otherwise it will cause indigestion. In boiling Cabbage, if the water is changed, it will remove that strong odor disliked by many. To preserve Cabbage during winter, pull them on a dry day and turn them over on their heads for a few hours so as to let them drain. Set them in a cool cellar or bury them with their heads down in long trenches in a dry situation. In the Middle States bury the heads and parts of the stump in the open ground, placing over them a light covering of straw or boards to protect them from severe weather. The Savoy Cabbage is the best of the white sorts. The red Cabbage is formed the same as the other Cabbages, and only differs from them in color, and is preferred by many to the other sorts. It is best in the fall and throughout winter and keeps well, but the outer leaves must be occasionally removed, or else they will decay. CULTURE. No. 274. For the successful culture of Cabbage the very best quality of seed must be used. A heavy moist and fresh loam is most suitable, and should be highly manured, as well as deeply worked 1 . The early sorts should be sown very early in hot beds, hardened off and transplanted eighteen to twenty inches apart, early in the spring. In the South, sow them from the middle of September to the middle of October, and transplant into cold frames, to preserve them through the winter, setting them into open ground as early as possible. The late autumn and winter varieties may be sown from the middle to the last of spring, and transplanted when about six inches high, three feet apart each wa.y. Shade and water the late sowings in dry weather to get them up. It is important that the plants should stand thinly in the seed bed, or they will run up weak and slender, and be liable to make long stumps. In transplanting they must be set in the ground up to the first leaf, no matter how long the stem may be. Cabbages should be hoed THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 61 every week, and the ground stirred deeper as they advance in growth, throwing up a little earth to the plant each time, until they begin to head, when they should be thoroughly cultivated and left to mature. Loosening the roots will often retard the bursting of full grown heads. EARLY JEESEY WAKEFIELD. No. 275. The heads are very compact, of medium size, conical and early, as well as sure as a heading sort. EARLY ETAMPES. No. 276. This matures nearly or quite as early as the Jersey Wakefield, but is not as pointed. It forms small, compact heads- as early as the earliest, and is of excellent quality. EARLY YORK. No. 277. A very valuable early variety, with small, heart-shaped, firm and tender heads, of a very dwarf growth. EARLY LARGE YORK. No. 278. It succeeds the Ea*ly York and is equally desirable. It is of larger size, more robust, and bears the head better. EARLY SUGAR LOAF. No. 279. A very compact growing variety. The plants may set as close as sixteen inches apart. It is more affected by the heat than most of the early varieties. LITTLE DIXIE. No. 280. The heads are small, very hard and of very fine flavor. The plant is small but vigorous. HENDERSON EARLY SUMMER. No. 281. This is the earliest large heading Cabbage grown. It is so compact that it may set as close as the smaller sorts. The heads are large, flat or slightly conical. They keep longer without bursting than most of the other sorts. 62 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. EARLY FLAT DUTCH. No. 282. The favorite second early sort. The heads are large and solid, broad and roundish, very tender, fine grained and of the best flavor, and are also well adapted for second crop for fall or winter use. EARLY DWARF, FLAT DUTCH. No. 283. An excellent second early variety, which does particu- larly well in the Southern States. The heads are of medium size, solid and flat. It grows slow on the stump and is of good flavor. EARLY WINNINGSTADT. No. 284. This is one of the best for general use, being a very sure header, and will grow a hard head under circumstances where most kinds would fail. The heads are regular, conical shaped and very hard. It keeps well both in summer and winter. EARLY BLEICHFIELD GIANT. No. 285. This is a new German variety of Cabbage that has been highly recommended wherever tried, and is worthy of exten- sive cultivation. It is short stenvned, and is a reliable and very solid header of the highest quality. FILDER KRAUT. No. 286. This is similar to the Winningstadt, but larger and more pointed. It is highly esteemed for making kraut, and is good either for the first or second crop. DRUMHEAD SHORT STEM. No. 287. This is an excellent second early sort and is particu- larly recommended for the South, as it withstands the heat well. It is a sure header. The heads are low on the stump, being com- pact and solid. EARLY LARGE SCHWEINFURT. No. 288. It forms a very large showy head of excellent quality, but does not stand the heat well. When grown in perfection it is one of the handsomest of the second early sorts. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 63 IMPERIAL FRENCH OX HEART. No. 289. This grows low on the stump. The heads are very close and firm and of a yellowish green color. RED DUTCH, FOR PICKLING. No. 290. This is excellent for pickling or eating raw. It forms very hard oblong heads, round at the top and of a dark or purple color. FINE BLOOD RED. No. 291. A Cabbage of a remarkably deep blood red color and a great favorite. MARBLEHEAD. No. 292. It is characterized by its sweetness and delicacy of flavor and by its reliability in forming a large head. It is very hardy and will endure the cold of an extreme northern climate. LATE FLAT DUTCH. No. 293. This is a low growing variety, with large heads of a bluish green color; round, solid, broad and flat on the top. It is often tinted with red and brown. An excellent fall and winter variety and a good keeper. LARGE DRUMHEAD. No. 294. The drumhead Cabbage is a large fall or winter variety, with a broad, flat, round head and short stump. It is tender and of good flavor and is an excellent keeper. MARBLEHEAD MAMMOTH DRUMHEAD. No. 295. The largest Cabbage known, weighing, under good cultivation, from thirty to fifty pounds each. GREEN GLAZED. No. 296. A standard late variety in the South, not being affected by the heat. The heads are large but rather loose and open. It is very desirable on account of its immunity from the attacks of insects. 64 HARDEK'S AMERICAN COOKERY. EARLY DWARF ULM SAVOY. No. 297. Tliis is one of the earliest and sweetest of the Savov */ Cabbages, with small, round and solid heads. The leaves are small, thick, fleshy and of a fine deep green color, and of most excellent quality. GREEN GLOBE SAVOY. No. 298. This does not make a firm head, but the whole of it, being very tender and of pleasant flavor, is used for cooking. The leaves are wrinkled and dark green. It is very hardy, being improved by frost. AMERICAN SAVOY. No. 299. This closely approaches the cauliflower in its delicacy and delicious flavor, and is the best of all the Savoys. It has a short stump and grows to a large size, being compact and solid, and is a sure header. DRUMHEAD SAVOY. No. 300. This grows to a large size, with heads that are nearly round, but a little flattened on top. Color, dark green. BOILED CABBAGE. No. 301. Wash and clean two heads of Cabbage. Then cut them in quarters, cutting out the stalks, and put them in a saucepan with boiling water on a brisk fire, to which add a piece of bacon or salt pork (the bacon or pork having been parboiled for five minutes) . When the Cabbage is well cooked drain it on a colander and put the Cabbage into a saucepan, season it with salt and pepper. Serve with the bacon or pork nicely trimmed. NOTE. If the Cabbage is used as a plain vegetable, add a piece of butter. Pig's jowl or corned beef may be cooked with the Cabbage in the same way. CABBAGE WITH POTATOES, FLAMANDE. No. 302. When the Cabbage is cooked, as in No. 301, drain it on a colander, chop it fine, and put it into a saucepan with one quarter of its quantity of mashed potatoes. Mix the whole well together and season it with salt and pepper. Add a few spoonfuls of thickened veal gravy and let it simmer for half an hour. BRAIZED CABBAGE, FRENCH STYLE. No. 303. Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage, cut them into quarters and parboil them for fifteen minutes. Then immerse them THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 65 in cold water, drain them on a napkin, and cut out the stalks. After this season them with salt and pepper, and then roll each quarter together, covering each one with a thin slice of fat pork, which must be tied on with a string. Line the bottom of a deep, flat saucepan, with thin slices of fat pork. Slice one carrot and one onion fine, and place them on the pork, adding a few grains of pepper and cloves, a bay leaf, and a faggot of parsley garnished with a sprig of thyme. Place the Cabbage on top of this, and then moisten it all witli sufficient broth to cover it. Put the cover on the pan and place it on the fire to boil. When it boils, set it on the side of the fire to simmer slowly. When it is all thoroughly cooked, take the Cabbage out, remove the string and pork, and put the Cabbage in another flat saucepan to keep warm. Then strain the gravy to take off the grease, and add three spoonfuls of Allemande sauce to reduce it to its consistency. When it is ready to serve, dish up the Cabbage and pour the sauce over it. CABBAGE, GERMAN STYLE. No. 304. Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage. Cut out the stalks and cut the leaves in shreds. Put into a saucepan two finely chopped onions and four ounces of butter or lard. Fry them lightly, not letting them get brown. Then add the Cabbage and season it with salt and pepper. Put on the lid and cook slowly for twenty minutes, stirring the Cabbage occasionally, and then add a wine- glassful of vinegar. When the moisture is reduced, add a few spoonfuls of topping from the stock-pot to nourish the Cabbage. Let it cook until thoroughly done. CABBAGE WITH BACON, FAMILY STYLE. No. 305. Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage, quarter them and remove the thickest part of the stalk. Put the Cabbage in a saucepan with a piece of parboiled bacon or salt pork, and half a dozen sausages. Add to this two carrots, three onions (each gar- nished with four cloves), and a faggot composed of parsley, celery, a sprig of thyme, and one bay leaf. Cover it all with boiling water and season with salt. Place the saucepan on the fire to boil, then cover it and let it boil slowly until the Cabbage is thoroughly cooked. Then remove the faggot and the onions. When it is ready to serve, put the Cabbage on a dish, with the bacon on top, garnish it with the sausages and carrots cut in thin slices, and pour a little of the gravy over it. 5 66 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. STUFFED CABBAGE. No. 306. Trim off the first outer leaves of two middle-sized solid heads of Cabbage. Then parboil the Cabbages for twenty minutes, after which immerse them in cold water and drain them on a napkin. Then cut out the stalk and turn the leaves carefully out from the center. Have a stuffing prepared, composed of two pounds of sausage meat seasoned with salt, pepper and spices, with which add some cooked fine herbs, the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, and two dozen roasted chestnuts. Put this stuffing into the center of the Cabbages and replace the leaves so as to form the shape of the Cabbage. Cover the opening with a thin slice of fat pork and tie up the Cabbages with a string so that they may retain their shape. Have a saucepan large enough to hold the Cabbage, and line it with thin slices of pork. Put the Cabbages into the saucepan, leaving the opening on top. Garnish them with one sliced carrot, two whole onions (into which stick half a dozen cloves), a faggot of parsley, with a sprig of thyme and one bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper. Cover them with broth and set the pan on the fire to boil. Then put on the lid and let it cook slowly until the Cabbages are thoroughly done. After which take out the Cabbages carefully, remove the string and dish up the Cabbages. Strain the gravy into another saucepan, take off the grease, reduce and thicken it lightly, and when ready to serve pour the gravy over the Cabbage. STUFFED CABBAGE, HUNTERS' STYLE. No. 307. Prepare two heads of Cabbage the same as in No. 306, and fill the center with small sausages prepared in chipolata style, roast chestnuts and some boned reed birds. Arrange the leaves of the Cabbage and finish them as in No. 306. Put them into a sauce- pan, lined with thin slices of fat pork, and garnish them with two carrots, two onions, a faggot of parsley, and some trimmings of ham and veal. Season with salt and pepper, and moisten with broth to cover. Put on the lid and let them cook slowly until the Cabbages are well cooked and glazed. Then take out the Cabbages, remove the strings and dish them up. Strain the gravy into another sauce- pan, remove the grease, and add four spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce, reducing this to its consistency. Cook some marrow, separately, cut it into slices, and add it to the sauce which is served with the Cabbage. CABBAGE, BISMARCK STYLE. No. 308. Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage, quarter them and cut off the thickest part of the stalk, parboil them for ten THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 67 minutes, and immerse them in cold water. Press each quarter in your hand so as to squeeze out the water, then tie each one with a string, so that they may keep their shape. Put them into a saucepan and season with salt and pepper. Add a piece of butter, two dozen small onions, and a faggot of parsley, garnished with bay leaves, thyme, and a few grains of pepper. Moisten them with broth to cover, letting them cook slowly. When the Cabbages are nearly cooked, add one dozen small sausages, and when thoroughly cooked, take out the Cabbages and dish them up on pieces of toast, with the onions and sausages around the Cabbages. Strain the gravy into another saucepan, remove the grease, then reduce and thicken the gravy lightly and pour it over the Cabbages. CABBAGE WITH CREAM. No. 309. Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage, quarter them and remove the stalks. Cook them in water lightly salted, and when cooked drain them and place them upon a chopping-board and chop them finely. Put into a saucepan a piece of butter, and when it is melted add the Cabbage. Season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Fry lightly for ten minutes, not letting the Cabbage get scorched. Then add one pint of cream, reducing it on a brisk fire. Before serving add a piece of butter. STEWED CABBAGE, SPANISH STYLE. No. 310. Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage, quarter them, remove the stalks and cut the leaves into fine shreds. Parboil them for five minutes and immerse them in cold water, then drain and press them dry. Put into a saucepan a piece of butter, and when melted add the Cabbages. Cover the saucepan and let them simmer, to reduce the moisture. Prepare separately, and put into a saucepan one sliced carrot, one sliced onion and a faggot of parsley, garnished witli a sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, three cloves, and two cloves of garlic. Fry them lightly in some clarified butter, to which add one quart of broth and a wine-glassful of Maderia wine. Let this cook until it is reduced three-quarters. Strain the gravy and remove the grease, adding the gravy to the Cabbage, after the moisture of the latter has been reduced. Let it simmer until the Cabbage is tender and nicely glazed. Before serving drain off the butter, dish up the Cabbage, and garnish it with glazed chestnuts and fried sausages. Serve separately, a reduced Espagnole sauce. 68 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. CABBAGE WITH QUAILS OR PARTRIDGES. No. 311. Trim and wash four heads of Cabbage, quarter them and cut out the stalks. Parboil the Cabbages in water, lightly salted, until they are three-quarters cooked and then drain them in a colander, pressing out the water. After this spread them on a table and cut them coarsely, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Dress four partridges, or one dozen quails, as you would for roasting. Parboil them for two minutes, then drain and wash them in cold water. Now line a saucepan with thin slices of fat pork. Put a layer of Cabbage in the bottom and around the sides of the saucepan. Then arrange on this six quails, four young carrots and two whole onions, into which stick six cloves. Cover this with a layer of Cabbage. Then lay on this the other quails, one-half a pound of parboiled bacon and half a dozen small smoked sausages. Cover this with the rest of the Cabbage. Put on this a thin layer of sliced pork and moisten with drippings of the stock broth. Then put on a but- tered paper cover, and on this the lid of the saucepan. Set it on the fire, and, as soon as it boils, set it on the side and let it cook slowlv for one and a half hours, after which take off the buttered paper and pork. Then remove the Cabbage and put it in a colan- der to drain, keeping the quails, sausages, bacon and carrots sepa- rate. Dish up the Cabbage with the quails, placing the latter so that only their breasts are exposed. Cut the bacon and carrots in slices and split the sausages in half and garnish the Cabbage and quails with them. HOT SLAW. No. 312. Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage. Cut them in quarters and cut out the stalks, then cut the leaves into fine shreds. Season with salt and pepper. Put into a saucepan half a pound of fat pork cut into small pieces, and fry it until nicely browned. Add to this a wine-glassful of vinegar and the Cabbage, and cover the saucepan immediately. Let it simmer slowly for twenty-five minutes. Serve as a vegetable or a garniture for roast pork. COLD SLAW. No. 313. Cut the leaves of a head of Cabbage into fine shreds, and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. NOTE. Cold Slaw is generally served with oysters. A very nice way is to mix red and white cabbage and have a cream dressing for it, THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 69 CABBAGE SALAD. No. 314. Trim and wash one head of Cabbage. Quarter it and remove the stalks and the hard rib of the leaves. Then cut the leaves into fine shreds and parboil them for five minutes. Then immerse them in cold water and dry them on a napkin. Put them in a salad bowl, and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, mix- ing: the whole well together. Red Cabbage may be prepared in the same way, or it may be mixed with white, using half of each kind, and dressed with a mus- tard dressing. Garnish with pickled beets and hard-boiled eggs. CABBAGE SALAD, BOSTON STYLE. No. 315. Cut the Cabbage leaves into fine shreds. Put them in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Put into a saucepan a wine-glassful of vinegar and a piece of butter, and set it on the fire to boil. Then pour the hot vinegar over the Cabbage and cover the bowl. When cold, add a cupful of cream and mix the whole well together. Arrange it in the salad bowl and garnish with eggs. CABBAGE SALAD WITH CREAM, AMERICAN STYLE. No. 316. Cut the hearts of two heads of Cabbage into fine shreds. Put into a saucepan a glass of white wine vinegar, and when it boils, add one ounce of butter, and salt and pepper enough to season the Cabbage, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, ancl then the Cabbage. Let it get thoroughly warm, then put it into an earthen bowl. Dilute the yolks of four raw eggs in a little cold milk, strain it through a sieve, and add it to a pint of boiling milk while stirring it. As soon as it thickens, take it off of the fire, pour it over the Cabbage, and mix it well. Cover the bowl, and when cold put it into a salad bowl. Dress it in its proper shape, and garnish with beets and hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters. RED CABBAGE SALAD. No. 317. Cut the leaves of a small head of red Cabbage into fine shreds. Wash them in cold water, drain them on a napkin, and put them into a salad bowl with six hard-boiled eggs chopped up finely. Make a dressing of salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, mustard, and a pinch of sugar. Pour it over the Cabbage and mix the whole well together. Arrange it properly, and garnish it with hard-boiled eggs, cut in quarters. If oil is not desired, add clarified butter. 70 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. RED CABBAGE, GERMAN STYLE. No. 318. Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage, cut out the stalks, and cut the leaves into fine shreds. Put into a saucepan four ounces of butter, with two finely-chopped onions. Fry them lightly and add the Cabbage. Season with salt and pepper, cover the saucepan, and let it cook slowly until the moisture is reduced Then add a wine-glassful of vinegar and half a bottle of red wine. Let it cook until the moisture is nearly reduced, when the Cabbage should be well cooked. RED CABBAGE, HOLLAND A ISE STYLE. No. 319. Trim and wash two heads of red Cabbage, cut them into quarters, remove the stalks and cut the leaves into fine shreds. Parboil them for five minutes and then drain them. Put into a saucepan a piece of butter with two finely-chopped onions. Fry them lightly, and add the Cabbage, with half a do/en peeled, sliced apples. Season with salt, pepper, a little fine sugar, and a faggot of parsley well garnished. Let them simmer slowly for one hour, then add a large glassful of Burgundy wine, and let them cook half an hour longer. When ready to serve, take out the faggot, add a piece of butter, and toss well together. RED CABBAGE, VALENCIENNE STYLE. No. 320. Cut into small pieces two pounds of salt pork or bacon, and fry them lightly. To this add two heads of red Cabbage, cut into fine shreds. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and moisten with half a pint of broth and half a glassful of Kirschwasser. Then lay half a dozen sliced and peeled apples on top of the Cabbage. Cover the saucepan and let them cook slowly for one and a half hours, without stirring them, but care must be taken not to let the Cabbage adhere to the bottom. When ready to serve, toss it all o *j * well together and garnish with small, fried sausages. CABBAGE FOR GARNITURE. No. 321. The Cabbage as prepared in Nos. 302, 303, 304, 309, and 318, can be used for garniture, as may be required. They are generally served with sucking pigs, roast pork, boar, geese, etc. CABBAGE SOUP. No. 322. Trim the outer leaves of two heads of young Cabbage, cut the heads into quarters, remove the stalks, and wash the heads THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 71 in cold water. Parboil them for fifteen minutes with one pound of bacon or salt pork. Immerse them in cold water, drain them in a colander, and then press the Cabbages dry. Put into a saucepan two pounds of beef from the breast bone or the rump, and arrange the cabbages around it. Add a faggot of parsley, garnished'with a head of celery, two leeks and one bay leaf, two onions, into which stick six cloves, two carrots, and the bacon or pork. Add to this one gallon of cold water, then set it on the fire to boil. Skim it and season lightly with salt, letting it boil slowly for three hours. Then take out the Cabbages and cut them in sm-tll pieces. Place them in a soup tureen with pieces of toasted French bread, cut to the size of half a dollar. Strain the broth, season to taste, and pour it into the tureen. Serve hot. CABBAGE SEEVED WITH BROTH, GARBURE. No. 323. Trim and wash two young heads of Cabbage, cut them in half and remove the stalks. Parboil them in water, lightly salted, until three-quarters cooked. Then drain them, separate the leaves, and place a layer of them in a silver or earthen baking dish. Put on this a layer of thin slices of Gruyere or Swiss cheese, and over the cheese put thin slices of bread, alternating this way until the dish is full, seasoning each layer with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg. Moisten it to cover with good beef broth, and set it in an oven to gratinate for an hour. Serve with a soup tureen of good beef broth. PICKLED CABBAGE. No. 324. Trim the outer leaves of two heads of Cabbage, cut them into quarters and remove the stalks.- Cut the tender leaves into fine shreds and put them into an earthen bowl, with half a pound of fine salt to two pounds of Cabbage, and mix well. After three days drain off the liquid, and put the Cabbage into glass jars, filling them three-quarters full. Add a few grains of pepper and two bay leaves to each jar holding two quarts. Pour into each jar enough of the best wine vinegar to cover thd Cabbage well. Close the jars tight and keep them in a cool place. After using, be sure to tightly cover each jar. PICKLED RED CABBAGE, ENGLISH STYLE. No. 325 Prepare the red Cabbage the same as in No. 324. When putting the Cabbage in the jar, add some small, peeled and par- boiled onions, a few cloves, some small green peppers, and a little ginger. 72 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKEEY. SAUEB KRAUT. No. 326. Saner Kraut is a German preparation and is highly esteemed by them, when well prepared. It is made in large quanti- ties in this country, especially in the Northern States. It is seldom made in private families here, as it can be so readily procured of dealers at all times. To make good Sauer Kraut, only the besb of cabbage heads should be used. When prepared to keep for a certain length of time, use new barrels, or those which have con- tained vinegar or white wine. Sauer Kraut is cabbage cut into fine shreds, pickled in salt, and made to ferment in the barrel. To keep it well preserved, it must be kept in a cool and even temperature, and must be kept well pressed under the brine. It is an agreeable vegetable to be eaten with salted meats. SAUEE KRAUT, HOW TO MAKE. No. 327. Take a barrel and knock out the head. Then set it in a stationary place half a foot from the ground, in a cool and even temperature. Bore a hole in the barrel, about two inches from the bottom, and put therein a wooden faucet with a strainer inside of the barrel. Now select as many cabbages as are needed to fill the barrel, using only the best, solid white sorts procurable. Trim off the green leaves and cut out the stalks, then cut the cabbage into fine, short shreds, using a slide-board which has three or four knives, which are made for such a purpose. Place the slide-board over a wooden tub to receive the cabbage when it is cut up. Put a layer of salt in the bottom of the barrel, and then a layer of cabbage two inches thick. Add salt again, then cabbage, and thus alternate until the barrel is full. To every thirty pounds of cabbage use one and a half pounds of fine salt. NOTE. A few bay leaves, carraway or anise seed, may be added with the layers of cabbage, but should be used only with moderation. When the barrel is full, cover the top with a layer of cabbage leaves, and spread a linen cloth over this, placing on top of the cloth a wooden cover, made to go inside the barrel, and on this cover place some heavy weight that will press the cover down very tight. Five days after let the brine run off and add the same quan- tity of fresh brine, changing it once every sixth day until the brine has been changed four times, or until the brine runs clear and without odor. To keep Kraut from moulding, the brine must always cover the cabbage. Two months after the Kraut is first put in the barrel it will be ready for use. Care must be taken to always keep the Kraut covered after any of it has been taken from the barrel for use. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 73 SAUER KRAUT, HOW TO PEEP ABE FOR COOKING. No. 328. Before cooking the Sauer Kraut, soak it in fresh cold water for two hours. If it has a strong odor, change the water. When ready for cooking drain it. SAUER KRAUT, GERMAN STYLE. No. 329. Prepare three pounds of Sauer Kraut as in No. 328. Chop one large onion fine and put it into a saucepan with two spoonfuls of drippings from the stock-pot or roast meats. Fry it to a light brown and then add the Sauer Kraut, three peeled fine- sliced apples, one tumblerful of white wine and a pint of broth. Cover the saucepan and let it simmer slowly on the fire for two hours. Then sprinkle two soup spoonfuls of flour in it, mix it up well, and if necessary add a little more broth and let it simmer for half an hour longer. When ready, serve it in a deep dish and garnish with pig's jowl or fried sausages. The pig's jowl may be cooked with the cabbage or separately. SAUER KRAUT, FRENCH STYLE. No. 330. Prepare the Sauer Kraut as in No. 329. Add to it some salted or pickled spare-ribs of pork and one smoked sausHge. When this is all well cooked, dish up the Sauer Kraut and garnish it with the spare-ribs and the sausages cut in slices. Always prepare more than is required for one meal. What is left can be set aside in a cool place, and when warmed over two or three days after, it will be relished much more than at first. SAUER KRAUT, BAVARIAN STYLE. No. 331. When the Sauer Kraut is prepared for cooking, a.s in No. 329, add to it two pounds of fresh pork from the loin or leg. When it is well cooked dish it up with the pork. Serve separately a dish of potato balls (Kartoffelshnitzhen), poached in broth, lightly salted. Dish these up with fine chopped onions, fried in clarified butter. Put the latter over the potato balls. SAUER KRAUT, FLEMISH STYLE. No. 332. Prepare the Sauer Kraut as in No. 329. When it is well cooked, drain it in a colander and put the Sauer Kraut into a mould to fit the dish intended to serve it on. Press it into the 74 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. mould solidlv and keep it warm until ready to serve. Then turn it on to the dish, care being taken to keep the Kraut well together. Dish on top of it a salmis of snipss or partridges, with a well-reduced sauce, and garnish the dish with toasted bread, cut into fancy shapes and buttered with lobster butter, into which add a little puree of anchovies. SAUER KRAUT BAKED, DUFOUR. No. 333. Cut in small scallops an equal quantity of cooked smoked beef tongue, calf's head, mushrooms and breast of par- tridges. Add to this a reduced Madeira wine sauce. Cook the quantity of Sauer Kraut necessary, as in No. 329, and when cooked put it into a colander to drain it of its moisture. Then put a layer of the Kraut into a baking dish, hollow the middle and add the above preparation. Cover this with the rest of the Sauer Kraut, filling the dish up nicely. Sprinkle on top some fresh bread crumbs and some butter, divided into small pieces. Wipe the borders and bake in a slow oven until nicely browned. SAUER KRAUT BAKED WITH FILLET OF SOLES. No. 334. Cook the quantity of Sauer Kraut necessary, as in No. 329. Drain it in a colander and press it dry. Then put it into a saucepan (to a pound of Sauer Kraut add half a pint of reduced cream sauce), with four ounces of lobster butter. Mix this well together off of the fire. Take out the fillet from six medium-sized soles (or flounders). Kemove the skin and season and bread them, frying them in hot lard. Drain them on a napkin and let them get cold. Place a layer of the Kraut in a baking dish, and on top of this a layer of the fried fillet, cut in scollops. Alternate thus until the dish is full and cover the top with Sauer Kraut. Sprinkle on this some fresh bread crumbs and some lobster butter, divided into small pieces. Wipe the borders, bake in an oven, and serve hot. SAUER KRAUT WITH PARTRIDGES OR QUAIL. No. 335. Cook the Sauer Kraut as in No. 329. When nearly done, drain off the moisture. Have ready two roasted partridges, or six quails, three-quarters cooked. Add them to the Sauer Kraut and cover the saucepan tight. Let them simmer slowly until the birds are tender. When ready to serve, dish up the Sauer Kraut, with the birds nicely arranged on top. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 75 ARTICLE XXXI. CALABASH, OR COMMON GOURDS. French Ccrman Citrouille on Potiron. Kurbis. No. 336. The Calabash is of the same family as the squash and pumpkin. The fruit, when young, is hairy on the outside, and quite soft and tender. The surface, however, becomes hard, smooth and glossy when the fruit is ripe. The fruit is only fit for use when young, and it is then pickled in vinegar, the same as cucumbers. The flesh, when fully ripe, is worthless, but the shells, which are hard, light, compact and very strong, are used in the manufacture of baskets and for many ornamental purposes. There are four varieties: the Bottle Gourd, the Hercules Club, the Powder Horn, and the Siphon Gourd. They are cultivated iii the same manner as squash or pumpkins. ARTICLE: XXXII. CALAMINT. Calantenl ou Calamus. Kalaminth. No. 337. Calamint is an aromatic root, of the Oriis variety, having a delicate, violet odor, and is used as a substitute to impart a violet flavor. To make the flavor, by infusion, cut the roots in small pieces, put them in a bottle, pour alcohol over them, and then cork the bottle tight. Pastry cooks use the roots for flavoring when they are dried and pulverized. ARTICLE xxxni. CANTALOUPE OR PERSIAN MELONS. Canted up. Melone. No. 338. Cantaloupes differ remarkably from tho common varie- ties usually cultivated. They are destitute of the thick, hard rind which characterizes the common melons and which renders so large a portion of the melon useless. The skin of the Persian Melon is 76 HAKDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. thin and delicate, the flesh being extremely tender, rich and sweet, flowing copiously with a cool juice that renders them still more grateful. They are not an early melon, and for their perfection require a long and warm season. GERMEK. No. 339. This is a handsome, large-sized fruit, with a deep green skin, closely netted. The flesh is from one to two inches deep, and is of a clear green color, firm, juicy, and highly flavored. It is an excellent variety and an abundant bearer. GEREE. No. 340. This is a handsome, green fruit, oval-shaped, with a short stalk. The flesh is about two inches thick, of a bright green color, being very sweet and highly flavored. It is a good bearer, requiring a long, warm season. DAREE. No. 341. This resembles the Geree in shape. The flesh is white, thick and crisp, melting when fully ripened. If imperfectly matured, it is generally insipid, but always remains cool and pleasant. GREEN HOOSAIXE. Xo. 342. This is a handsome, egg-shaped fruit. When unripe it is of a deep green color, but in maturity it acquires a fine, even, light green, regularly netted surface. The exposed side becomes rather yellow in color. The flesh has a pale green and white tint, and is tender a ad delicate and full of highly perfumed, sweet juice. It is a hardy variety, of great excellence, and a good bearer. GREEN VALENCIA. No. 343. A desirable winter variety, of much excellence, a great bearer and very hardy. Though not rich in flavor, it is firm, saccharine and juicy. ISPAHAN. No. 344. This is said to be the most delicate of all Melons. It is egg-shaped, weighing from six to eight pounds. The skin is nearly smooth and of a deep sulphur yellow color. The flesh, which extends nearly half way to the center, is nearly white in color and is crisp, sugary and very rich. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 77 MELON OF KEISING. No. 345. This differs from the sweet Ispahan in being a closely netted Melon, egg-shaped, and regularly and handsomely formed, though extremely delicate. The skin is of a pale lemon color, and th-! flesh nearly white and from one to two and a quarter inches thick. It flows copiously with juice, and is sweet and high flavored. The rind is thin but firm. MELON OF SEEN. No. 346. An oval-shaped Melon, of handsome appearance, with a small mamelon at the apex. The surface has a pale, dusky yellow color, and is regularly and closely netted, except the mamelon. The rind is very thin, and the flesh is from an inch to two inches thick, of a pale green color, sometimes becoming reddish towards the center. It is exceedingly tender, and has sweet and delicately perfumed juice. It bears well, but requires a long season. HOW TO SERVE CANTALOUPES. No. 347. Cantaloupes are served before breakfast, and before dinner as a relish, or after dinner as a dessert. They should always be kept in a cool place an hour before serving. Select a Melon not over ripe, cut it in half nnd take out the seeds. Then cut it in ordinary sized slices and pass a knife under the flesh, without detaching it altogether from the rind. Serve it on a napkin, with salt and pepper. MELONS PRESERVED IN CANS. No. 348. All of the varieties of Melons can be preserved. The best are preferred, and they must not be too ripe. Cut the Melons in slices and remove the seeds and the softest part of the Melon. Then peel the outside of the rind and cut the hard part of the Melon in scallops, parboil them until tender and drain them. Put them in an earthen jar and cover them with a light syrup for three hours. Then take them out, arrange them in quart cans and cover them with a vanilla flavored syrup of thirty-two degrees. Then solder on the covers and boil them in a hot water bath for half an hour. PRESERVED MELONS IN SYRUP. No. 349. Select Melons that are not too ripe. Cut them in slices, remove the seeds and peel off the rind. Cut the slices in three or four pieces, parboil them until tender, and then immerse 78 HARDER 1 S AMERICAN COOKERY. them in cold water for two hours. Then take them out, trim the pieces of Melon and put them in an earthen jar. Cover them with a cold syrup at fourteen degrees for two hours and then drain off the syrup. Cook it to sixteen degrees, and when lukewarm turn it over them again. Repeat this four times, twice a day. The fifth time cook the syrup to thirty-two degrees and put in the Melon. Let it boil up once and then let it stand on the side of the fire for one and a half hours. Then take it off, and when cool put them in jars, covered tight, and set them in a cool dry place. If, after a certain time, they should ferment, boil them over again. ARTICLE) XXXIV. French CAPERS. German Cfipre. Kaper. No. 350. The Caper bush grows in warm climates. . The young buds are picked and then pickled for use. They are preferred when small, and of a bright green color. They have a warm, aromatic taste, and are used in sauces, salads, and various other culinary preparations. CAPERS PICKLED IN VINEGAR. No. 351. Pick out small Capers, all of the same size, as they are the best. Those developed are not fit for use. Pick off the stems and put the Capers in jars or bottles, and cover them with cold, boiled vinegar. A sprig of Tarragon in each bottle will afford an excellent flavor. Keep the bottles corked tight, and in three or four weeks the Capers will be ready for use. CAPER SAUCE. No 352. This is simply a butter sauce with Capers added, and is generally served with boiled mutton and fish. ARTICLE: xxxv. CAPILLARY OR VENUSHAIR. Capillaire. Frauenhaar syrup. No. 353. There are three varieties the white, black, and Canadian the latter kind being used most. They are diuretic, stomachic, and principally bechic. The Capillary syrup has all the THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 7> virtue of the plant, and is used by pastry cooks for Bavarian creams, etc. The Capillary syrup and the syrup of marsh mallow have the same properties, and are used for the same purposes. CAPILLARY SYRUP. No. 35-1. Take seven pounds of sugar and boil it to a light syrup. When it is boiling hot pour it over six ounces of Capillary. Then cover it and let it lay until next day, when you will drain off the syrup, boil it again to thirty-two degrees, and then pour it boiling hot over the Capillary again. When it is cold, strain it and put it in bottles. NOTE When the Capillary is boiled with the syrup, its flavor evaporates somewhat, and leaves a disagreeable taste. ARTICLE; XXXVI. French CARAWAY. German Carvi. Kummel. No. 355. Caraway is a biennial plant of the parsley family. The seeds have an aromatic flavor and a warm pungent taste. Caraway is cultivated for its seeds, which are used by bakers, confectioners, and distillers, and also in medicine as a carminative. CULTURE. No. 356. Sow it in August, and the plant will give a fair crop of seed the next season. Plant it in drills and thin it to six inches apart. ARTICLE: xxxvu. CARDOON. Car don. Kardon. No. 357. There are two kinds 01 Cardoons the Spanish and the ordinary of which there are several species which are cultivated for the stems and midribs. The Spanish variety is preferred, as the stems are thicker than the ordinary, the latter having the 80 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. flavor of artichokes. It is a vegetable much esteemed in Europe, though seldom used in this country, but it is becoming popular here. The flowers are gathered and dried in the shade, and are used to coagulate milk. CULTURE. No. 358. Cardoon is grown for the midribs of the leaves, which require to be blanched the same as celery. When the plants are to remain, sow them early in spring, in drills three feet apart and an inch and a half deep. Then thin out the young plants to a foot apart in drills. LARGE SPANISH. No. 359. The ribs are longer than in the ordinary Cardoou, and the whole plant is much stronger. It runs up to seed quicker than the other variety. THE ORDINARY. No. 360. This is of a shiny green color, the stems growing about five feet high. Its leaves are large and strong. ARTICHOKE LEAVED. No. 361. This is remarkable for its strong growth and the thick- ness of its midribs, which are almost solid. It is a tender and fine variety. LARGE TOURS SOLID. No. 362. The midribs are large and solid, yet tender and delicate. Notwithstanding the inconvenience arising on account of its numerous and rigid spines, it is considered one of the best varie- ties. CARDOONS WITH MARROW. No. 363. Take six white and solid Cardoon stems (the hard and hollow ones are of no use) and cut them four inches in length. As you prepare them put them in a pan of cold water, acidulated. Have a saucepanful of boiling water on the fire, in which you will put the juice of five lemons. Put the pieces of Cardoon in this water and parboil them until you can peel off the outer surface easily. Take them off' of the fire to peel and trim them, adding sufficient cold water to allow you to put your hand in the water. Then put the peeled Cardoons in fresh water and drain them on a napkin. Prepare a deep flat saucepan lined with fine slices of fat THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 81 pork, in which you will put the Cardoons. Season them well with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar, and moisten with enough broth to cover them. Add the juice of two lemons and cover the Cardoons with thin slices of fat pork. Put on the lid and let them boil, after which let them cook slowly. When done drain them on a napkin. Dish them up and then pour a reduced Espagnole sauce over them, garnish around the dish with small patties or buttered toast rilled with scallops of marrow cooked with tine herbs. Then serve. CAEDOONS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. No. 364. Prepare and cook them the same as No. 363, and when done drain them on a napkin and trim them. Arrange a layer of Cardoons in a buttered baking dish, add a little reduced Espaguole sauce and sprinkle it with Parmesan cheese. Make three layers like this and sprinkle the top with Parmesan cheese and fresh bread crumbs mixed together. Wipe off the border, put a little butter on the top, and then bake it in the oven. CARDOONS, WITH CREAM SAUCE. No. 365. Prepare and cook them the same as in No. 363, and when cooked drain them on a napkin. Dish them up and then pour over them a Cream sauce, to which add a spoonful of half glaze. CARDOONS, WITH ESSENCE OF HAM. No. 366. When the Cardoons are parboiled and cleaned, as in No. 363, put them in a flat saucepan with a glass of white wine and some broth to cover them. Season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar, and let them cook until the moisture is reduced, and they are nicely glazed. Then put them in a dish, and pour over them a reduced brown sauce, with essence of ham. CARDOON FRTCASSEE. No. 367. Cook the Cardoons as in No. 368, and reduce the moisture without letting them get brown. Take out the faggot and add a few spoonfuls of Allemande sauce and the juice of one lemon. Toss it all well together, and serve with a garniture of buttered toasted bread, cut in fancy shapes. CARDOONS FOR GARNITURE. No. 368. Cut the Cardoons in pieces one and a half inches long. Parboil and clean them as in No. 363, and drain them on a napkin. 6 82 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. Pat them in a flat saucepan, with a small piece of butter. Moisten them with white broth, and season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar, and add the juice of a lemon and a faggot of parsley, garnished with a piece of lean ham. Let them cook slowly until tender, and then take out the faggot. The moisture must be well reduced. Take the pan off of the fire, and add a small piece of butter and a little chopped parsley. Toss them well together until the butter is melted, and then serve as required. PUREE OF CARDOONS. No. 369. Prepare and cook them as in No. 368. "When well cooked take out the faggot, reduce the broth, and add two spoon- fuls of Allemande or"Cream sauce. Rub them through a fine sieve, put them back in the saucepan, and before serving add a small piece of butter. CARDOON SALAD, SPANISH STYLE. No. 370. Prepare and cook the Cardoons the same as in No. 363. Then cut them in scollops an inch long and drain them on a napkin. Put them in a salad bowl and season them with salt and pepper. Then chop two cloves of garlic very fine and put them in a frying pan with a little sweet oil. Fry them lightly (not letting them get brown), and add immediately some bell peppers, chopped fine, and some vinegar. Then let them boil up for two minutes and pour the dressing over the Cardoons, mixing them well together, and then serve. CARDOONS PRESERVED. No. 371. Prepare and clean the Cardoons as in No. 363. Cut them all the same size and drain them. Then put one gallon of water in a saucepan, and when it boils, add two spoonfuls of flour, diluted in cold water, a little salt, and the juice of two lemons. Stir it until it boils, so it will not get lumpy. When it boils, add the Cardoons, and cook them until tender. Take the saucepan off of the fire and let the Cardoons get cold. Take each piece out and dip them in lukewarm water, and place them in quart tin cans. Cover them with cold-boiled water, lightly salted. Then solder on the coveiv and cook them in a hot bath for two hours. CARDOONS PUREE, PRESERVED. No. 372. Prepare and cook the Cardoons as in No. 363. When they are cooked tender, drain them. Bub them through a fine sieve, and put the puree in pint tin cans, Solder on the covers, and boil the cans in a hot water bath for one hour and a half. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 83 XXXVIII. French CARROT. German Carrote. Moehre. No. 373. The Carrot is a biennial root, somewhat hardy, and is one of the most healthful and nutritious of garden roots. It is extensively used as a vegeteble for the table, and for seasoning and garnitures. It contains a certain amount of sugar, which adds to its nutritious quality. There are several different varieties, all of which can be obtained all the year round. The larger varieties are also cultivated as an agricultural root, and are better suited than other kinds of food for dairy cattle, not alone because they are nutritious, but because they impart a good color and flavor to the butter. CULTURE. No. 374. The Carrot succeeds best in light, sandy loam, made rich by manuring the previous year. The roots often grow pronged and ill-shaped, in imperfectly manured ground. It is better to sow as early in spring as the ground can be got ready, but if planting is necessarily delayed until late in the season, the seed must be soaked in tepid water twenty-four hours, then dry it by mixing in sifted ashes, and sow it in fully prepared soil. EARLY FRENCH FORCING. No. 375. This is the earliest variety, is valuable for forcing, and has a small root of fine flavor. EARLY SCARLET HORN. No. 376. An old and favorite variety, much esteemed for sum- mer use. HALF LONG RED (STUNTED ROOTS). No. 377. A variety intermediate in size, with stunted roots. Its period of maturity is between the Early Scarlet Horn and the Long Orange. HALF LONG SCARLET (POINTED ROOTS). No. 378. This is similar to the Half Long Bed with stunted roots, except that the roots are pointed. 84 HAEDEK'S AMERICAN COOKERY. EARLY HALF LONG SCARLET CAREXTON. No. 379. An early variety without core, and is excellent for forcing, or is used as an early kind for planting in the open ground. LONG ORANGE. No. 380. It is adapted for garden or farm culture, and has large- jsized roots. DANYERS. No. 381. This is a valuable variety having the smallest root of any kind grown, but it will yield the greatest bulk. Its color is a rich shade of orange and it grows very smooth and handsome. ALTRINGHAM. No. 382. An excellent variety, large and finely flavored. LARGE WHITE BELGIAN. No. 383. A very productive variety, but grown almost exclusive- ly for stock. YELLOW BELGIAN. No. 384. When young, the roots are mild, delicate and of good flavor; when full grown, it is only valuable for stock. HOW TO PREPARE CARROTS FOR COOKING. No. 385. Carrots should always be scraped, and should only be prepared when ready for use. When young use them as a vegeta- ble, and prefer those that are stunt rooted. Cook them whole, or cut them in ^rnall parts. The large carrots are cut in different shapes, with spoon cutters, for garnitures, but when used as a veg- etable, cut them in a short, thick Julienne. When used for Julienne soup, cut them two inches crosswise; then slice them, and cut them lengthwise in small stems. When they get older, use only the red part, which you peel off by cutting it the same thickness. In this way the pieces will stay whole, but in the other way the pieces will break off when cooked. CARROTS MAITRE D' HOTEL. No. 386. Take three dozen young carrots and cut each one in half, then put them in water lightly salted, and when three quarters THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 85 done, drain them. Put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and a pint of broth, and season with salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar. Then put them over a brisk fire, and when the moisture is reduced, the carrots must be cooked. Add two spoonfuls of Alle- mande sauce and a little parsley chopped fine, then toss them well together and serve. When large carrots are used, slice and prepare them as you would young carrots. CARROTS STEWED, GERMAN STYLE. No. 387. Prepare the carrots the same as in No. 386. When the broth is reduced, add a piece of butter, in which you will mix two spoonfuls of flour. Dilute it with some broth, then let it simmer slowly for ten minutes, add some fine chopped parsley, and then serve. CARROTS, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. No. 388. Cut the Carrots in any shape desired, then boil them in water lightly salted, and when tender drain them. Then put them in a saucepan and season with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg and a pinch of sugar, and add a piece of butter. Toss them over the fire a few minutes, then add four spoonfuls of Butter sauce and serve. CARROTS WITH GEEEN PEAS, STRASBOURGEOISE. No. 389. Parboil two dozen young Carrots for five minutes, then drain them. After this put them in a saucepan with a piece of but- ter, then toss them over the fire and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Moisten them with white broth, and when they are half cooked add as much green peas as you have Carrots, and a faggot of parsley garnished. Cover the saucepan and cook them on a brisk fire. When tender add two spoonfuls of Cream sauce. Toss them well together over the fire and add a piece of butter be- fore serving. STEWED CARROTS, INDIAN STYLE. No. 390. Cut and trim two dozen young Carrots, all of even size. Put them in water to cover them. Then season with salt, pepper and sugar, and add a piece of butter. Cook them until tender. Then slice an onion and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry it lightly, adding a soup-spoonfu] of flour and a teaspoonful of curry powder. Let it cook for a minute, while stirring it well, and mix with it a glassful of cream and some of the Carrot broth to make a clear sauce. Add the Carrots then, and season with salt and pepper, and let them simmer for fifteen minutes. 86 HAEDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. CARROTS STEWED FOR GARNITURE. No. 391. Cut three dozen Carrots in a short, thick Julienne. Boil them, and when done, drain them. Put in a flat saucepan a piece of butter, and set it on the fire. When the butter commences to get brown, add the Carrots. Toss them well over the fire, add some chopped parsley, season with salt and pepper, a pinch of sugar, and add two spoonfuls of butter sauce. CARROTS FOR LARGE GARNITURE, FLAMENT. No. 392. Take three dozen young Carrots, trim them in nice shape or cut them with large spoon cutters. Parboil them for five minutes and then drain them. Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, a pinch of sugar and a pint of white broth. Cook them until the broth is reduced and the Carrots glazed. Serve them as needed. CARROTS FOR SMALL GARNITURE, OLIVE-SHAPED. No. 393. Cut as many Carrots as are needed, in olive shape, with a spoon cutter. Cook them the same as in No. 392, and when glazed add four spoonfuls of Cream, Allemande or Brown sauce, which-ever may be desired. CARROT GARNITURE, NIVERNAISE. No. 394. Cut the Carrots with a channelled spoon cutter, the size of a small olive. Cook them the same as in No. 392. When well glazed, add a small piece of butter and a little chopped parsley. Toss them well together, and serve with articles needed in Niver- naise style. CARROT PUREE FOR GARNITURE. No. 395. Use young carrots or only the red parts of old ones. When washed and cleaned, parboil them for fifteen minutes, and then drain them in a colander. Put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and season with salt, pepper, a pinch of sugar and a little nutmeg. Put on the lid, set them over a slow fire and let them simmer, turning them occasionally, not letting them get brown. Moisten with a little broth, and when cooked and lightly glazed, add a reduced Allemande or cream sauce. Then rub it through a fine sieve, put it back in the saucepan and warm it thoroughly. Before serving, add a piece of butter. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 87 CARROT SOUP PUREE, AURORE. No. 396. Tcike three dozen young Carrots, or the red parts of old ones, and slice them in fine pieces. Put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, two onions, two pieces of celery, a faggot of parsley garnished with a leek, a little salt and a pinch of sugar. Cover the saucepan and let them simmer until the moisture is reduced, not letting them burn or get browned. Then add one quart of broth, and cook slowly until done. Then add one gallon of thickened veal or chickeu broth, and let it all boil slowly for twentv minutes. Then take out the faggot, skim the top, and rub the puree through a fine sieve. Put it back into the saucepan to keep warm, and before serving add a piece of butter, stirring it well until melted. Serve with small fried bread-crumbs, separate. CARROT SOUP PUREE, STANLEY No. 397. Prepare the puree the same as in No. 398. Before serving, add a pint of cream, in which dilute the yolks of six raw eggs and a piece of butter. Then add a garniture of balls of forced meat of chicken, green peas and asparagus tops, cooked separate. CARROT SOUP PUREE, GERMAN STYLE. No. 398. Prepare the Carrots as in No. 396. When the moist- ure is reduced add two quarts of broth and the crumbs of a loaf of white bread. Let them cook slowly until the Carrots are thor- oughly done. Then add two quarts of cream sauce while stirring it with a wooden spoon, and if it is too thick add some broth, to bring it to the proper consistency. After fifteen minutes, rub it all through a fine sieve, put it back on the fire to keep warm, then -add a piece of butter and season to taste. Before serving, add some Vermicelli or Noodles cooked in broth. SOUP PUREE, CRECY. No. 399. Cut the red part of two dozen Carrots in small pieces, parboil them for two minutes and drain them in a colander. Put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and add two white onions sliced and the white part of two leeks. Let them simmer for five minutes until the moisture is reduced, stirring it occasionally. Then add two quarts of white broth, half a pound of rice or the crumbs of one square loaf of bread. Cook them slowly until well cooked, and add three quarts of chicken or veal broth, seasoned with salt, pepper and sugar. Rub the puree through a fine sieve, 00 HARDER S AMEKICAN COOKEKY. then put it back in the saucepan, stirring it until it boils. Then let it cook slowly for half an hour, then skim it and add a piece of butter. Serve it with small fried bread crumbs. In this soup boiled rice or any other paste may be used. CAKROT SOUP PUREE, CKECY, FOR FAST DAYS. No. 400. Prepare it the same as in No. 399. Use vegetable consomme in place of chicken or veal broth. CARROTS PICKLED. No. 401. Use small young Carrots. Trim them, parboil them two minutes, and then peel them. Put them in a saucepan with boiling water lightly salted. Cook them until nearly done, then drain them and put them in earthen jars with enough cold boiled vinegar to cover them. Let it lay until next day, when you will draw off the vinegar and boil it, adding a little salt. Put the Car- rots in a two-quart jar and pour the vinegar, when cold, over them (just enough to cover them). Then add half a dozen cloves and three bay leaves. Cover the jar tight and keep it in a cool place. Use them for garnishing, the same as beets. CARROTS PRESERVED FOR GARNITURE. No. 402. Use young Carrots and cut them in any shape, but nearly all of the same size. Parboil them until half cooked, in water lightly salted. Drain and then dry them on a towel, and when cold put them in quart tin cans. Cover them with boiled water lightly salted. Then solder on the covers and boil in a hot water bath for one hour and a half. If you use whole Carrots, you must boil them for two hours. PUREE OF CARROTS PRESERVED FOR SOUPS OR GARNITURES. No. 403. Use only the red part of four dozen Carrots. Slice them in fine pieces, parboil them five minutes, then drain them. Put them in a saucepan with two quarts of plain veal broth. Let them cook until the Carrots are well cooked, and then rub them through a fine sieve. Then put the puree in quart tin cans, solder on the covers, and boil in a hot water bath for an hour and a half. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 89 ARTICLE XXXIX. Froi:c! CATERPILLAR. German Scorpiure. Raupenpflanzen. No. 404. A hardy annual plant with creeping stems,- that are about two feet 'in length. The seeds are produced in pods. No part of the plant is eatable, but the pods, in their green state, are placed upon dishes of salad, and so closely do they resemble a real caterpillar, that they will oftentimes deceive the uninitiated. CULTURE. No. 405. Sow them in April, fifteen inches apart, in rows that are fifteen inches wide. ARTICLE; CATNIP. Nepeta. Katzenkraut. No. 406. This is a hardy perennial plant, well known as a mild nervine for infants. The plant should be pulled up by the roots when in full flower, and dried in the shade. CULTURE. . No. 407. The seeds may be sown in drills, twenty inches apart, either in the fall or in spring. ARTICLE XLI. CATSUP. Oat sup. Catchup. No. 408. Too much care cannot be taken in buying Catsup, as there are many spurious imitations made that are deleterious to health, often producing dyspepsia, etc. It is made of tomatoes, 90 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. mushrooms, walnuts, etc., as described elsewhere in this book and can be made in any family far superior to that which is purchased in stores, and having the advantage of being pure and healthful. XLII. FrciicJi CAULIFLOWER German Choiifleur. Blumen Kohl. No. 409. The Cauliflower, like Brocoli, is an annual plant, being delicious in flavor. It requires a cool, moist atmosphere to bring it to perfection, and if this condition occurs when the plant is about to head, fine large heads will result, whereas, if the air is hot and dry, failure will result in spite of the best of seeds and cultivation. Brocoli is a species of Cauliflower, and both are prepared in the same style. See Brocoli, Article XXIII. CULTURE. No. 410. For the spring or summer crop, sow the early varieties, about the last of winter, in hot-beds, and transplant them into the open air as soon as the ground can be worked. For the late autumn crop, sow the late varieties about the middle of spring, and trans- plant them as you would winter cabbages. In dry weather water them freely, and as they advance in growth hoe deep and draw earth to the stems. After they begin to head they should be watered every other day. In two or three weeks the strongest will begin to form flower heads, which should be cut for use while the curd is close and compact. It is then tender and delicious, but later on the head opens and separates into branches and soon becomes coarse, fibrous, strongly flavored, and unfit for use. The leaves should be gathered and tied loosely over the tops of the heads to facilitate blanching. On the approach of frost, those plants that have not headed may be set out in a cellar and can be aired in mild weather. EARLY SNOWBALL. No. 411. This is the earliest of all Cauliflowers. Its heads measure from 8 to 9 inches in diameter. Every plant forms a fine head. Its dwarf habit and short interleaves allow it to be planted as close as 18 inches apart each way. This variety does equally well for late planting. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 91 EARLY DWARF ERFURT. No. 412. Aii early dwarf variety, having large white compact heads of the finest quality. EARLY PARIS. No. 413. An excellent variety. NONPAREIL. = No. 414, A half early variety and one of the best. EARLY LONDON. No. 415. An excellent and very early variety. LENORMAND SHORT STEMMED. No. 416. A large late variety, with well-formed heads of superior quality. WALCHEREN. No. 417. Aii old and favorite variety. ALGIERS. No. 418. An excellent late variety, in general favor. WEITH'S AUTUMN GIANT. No. 419. A valuable late variety, particularly in the Southern States and California. HOW TO PREPARE CAULIFLOWER FOR COOKING. No. 420. Cut the root close to the stem, then trim off all cf the leaves and wash them carefully in cold water, as there are often some insects among the stems and buds. CAULIFLOWER, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. No. 421. Wash and trim them as in No. 420. Put them in a saucepan with enough water to cover them, and add a little salt when they boil. Let them cook slowly, adding a little milk and a 92 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. piece of butter. When cooked, drain them on a napkin and be careful riot to break the flowered buds. Serve on a napkin, with Butter sauce separate. CAULIFLOWER, HOLLANDAISE. No. 422. Prepare the same as in No. 420. When cooked, drain them on a napkin. Put the Cauliflowers on a dish and put Hollan- daise sauce over them. If they are small and detached, put them in a bowl with the heads downward. Press them lightly, moulding them together, as it were, in the bowl, so they will all form together, making one large head. Then put it on a plate with the head up, and pour Hollan- daise sauce over it. CAULIFLOWER BAKED, AU GRATIN. No. 423. Cook the Cauliflowers as in No. 421. Drain off all the moisture and season them with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Then put them in a buttered baking dish, evenly formed, and pour over them a reduced cream or Allemande sauce, to which add some grated Parmesan cheese. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over them and put a small piece of butter on top. Wipe the borders off clean, and then bake in an oven. CAULIFLOWER FRIED, VILLEROI. No. 424. Cook the Cauliflowers the same as in No. 421. After you drain them, cut off the flowered heads in small bunches and dip them in Villeroi sauce. Set them in a cool place, so the sauce will adhere to the Cauliflower. Then bread them with fresh bread crumbs. After this, dip them in beaten eggs and bread them again. Fry them in hot lard, until nicely browned, and serve them on a napkin, with fried parsley as a garniture. CAULIFLOWER FRIED IN BATTER. No. 425. Cook the Cauliflowers as in No. 421. Then drain them and cut the flowered buds in small bunches. Put them in an earthen bowl, season them with salt and pepper, and add a little vinegar, some finely chopped parsley and chives, and cover them to macerate for two hours. Then place them on a towel to absorb all the moisture, and afterwards dip them in a light batter and fry them in hot lard to a nice brown color. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 93 CAULIFLOWER, ITALIAN STYLE. No. 426. Cut off the flowered buds of the Cauliflower in small bunches. Then boil them in water lightly salted, and when tender drain them. Then put them in a flat saucepan with a piece of butter, and toss them over a brisk fire, seasoning them with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg. When thoroughly warmed, dish them up and pour over them some Anchovie butter sauce, in which add the juice of one lemon and a little parsley chopped fine. CAULIFLOWER FOR GARNITURE. No. 427. Cut off the flowered buds, boil them, and when done drain them. If you wish a small garniture, cut them small. If for a large garniture, leave them in bunches. For a large garniture dress them in bunches around the dish with other vegetables, and mask them lightly with a white sauce. CAULIFLOWER PUREE, FOR GARNITURE. No. 428. Boil two heads of Cauliflower as in No. 421. Drain them and put them in a saucepan with four spoonfuls of Cream or Allemande sauce. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix them well together, rub it through a fine sieve and put it in a flat sauce- pan. Red ace it with a 'glass of cream to its proper consistency, and before serving add a small piece of butter. CAULIFLOWER SALAD. No. 429. Boil two heads of Cauliflower in water lightly salted. When cold cut off the flowering buds, dividing them in small tufts. Put them in a salad bowl, season with salt and pepper, and pour over them a light Mayonnaise or cream dressing. Mix gently, so as not to break them, and garnish with beets and water cress. SOUP CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER. No. 430. Cook four heads of Cauliflower as in No. 421. When drained put them in a saucepan with two quarts of Cream sauce. Dilute it to its proper consistency with chicken or veal broth, and season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Rub it through a fine sieve, then put it back in the saucepan to keep warm, not letting it boil. Before serving add a piece of butter, stirring it in well until the butter is melted. Then add some chives chopped fine. Cauliflower soup should only be made when you have fresh plucked young Cauliflower. 94 HAKDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. CAULIFLOWER SOUP PUREE. No. 431. Cook four heads of Cauliflower as in No. 421, and when drained put them in a saucepan with one gallon of thickened chicken or veal broth. Season it with salt and pepper, then rub it through a fine sieve and put it in a saucepan to boil for ten minutes. Before serving add one pint of cream diluted with the yolks of six raw eggs and a piece of butter. Add some small square pieces of breast of boiled chicken. CAULIFLOWER PICKLED. No. 432. After you have picked and washed a number of Cauli- flo-.vers, cut off about three pounds of the flowered buds and arrange them in small bunches all of the same size. Pat them in a pan of cold water. Then put some lightly salted water in a saucepan, and when it boils add the Cauliflowers. Let them boil for six minutes, then drain them and put them in an earthen jar. Then pour hot boiling vinegar over them and keep the cover on the jar until the next day, when you will drain off the vinegar. Then boil the vin- egar again, adding a little salt, and pour it hot over the Cauliflower in the jar. When cold cover them tight and set them in a cool place. If glass jars are used pour the vinegar in slowly at first, as the glass is liable to crack. CAULIFLOWER PRESERVED IN BRINE. No. 433. After you have picked and washed the Cauliflowers cut off the flowering buds in large bunches. Parboil them six minutes, then immerse them in cold water and afterwards drain them. Put them in earthen jars with a boiled salt brine of 18 degrees (sugar weight). x Two days later drain off the brine and boil it over again, adding salt to bring it to 18 degrees. Pour it over the Cauliflower and cover the jar tight. When ready to use soak them in cold water for five hours, boil in fresh water, and serve as needed. ARTICLE French CELERIAC, OR TURNIP ROOTED CELERY. German Celeri Rave.. Knol Selleri. No. 434. This variety has a brownish, irregular root, at the base of the leaves near the surface of the ground. It is much hardier than the common variety of celery. Those required for winter use THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 95 should be drawn, packed in sand, and stored in the cellar before severe weather sets in. It is used in the same manner as the common celery. Its root, or bulb, is the only part eaten. Its flesh is w r hite and tender, having the flavor of the stalks of common celery, though less mild and delicate. The leaf-stalk is used most for flavoring soups, and the bulbs are stewed or used in salad the same as celery. CULTURE. No. 435. Sow it early in spring, in light, rich soil, and transplant it in May into beds, and water it freely in dry weather. When the plants are almost full grown, it is customary to earth up the bulbs to the height of four or five inches. In about a month they will be sufficiently blanched for use. The roots, which resemble turnips, will be ready in October, and may be preserved in sand during winter. It is -a vegetable that is much esteemed for culinary pur- poses. LARGE ERFURT. No. 436. This is a variety of Celeriac, having turnip-shaped roots, which may be cooked and sliced, and used with vinegar, to make an excellent salad. It is more hardy, and may be used in the same manner as celery. APPLE-SHAPED. No. 437. This is a great improvement over the old variety, having small foliage, and large, round and smooth tubers. CELERIAC FRIED, VILLEROI. No. 438. Pare and then wash six Celeriac roots in cold water and cut them in quarters. Take off the hard part, trim them in scallops, parboil them, for 15 minutes, and drain them. Then put them in a flat saucepan lined with slices of fat pork and moisten them with white broth. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar. Then cover them with thin slices of fat pork, put them on the fire and let them cook slowly. When cooked take out the Celeriac and dry them on a napkin. Then strain the gravy in another saucepan and add four spoonfuls of Allemande sauce. Re- duce it on a brisk fire and when cool dip the Celeriac in the sauce. Then arrange them in a pan and set them in a cool place, and when they are cold and the sauce adheres to the Celeriac, bread them in fresh bread crumbs. Then dip them in beaten eggs and bread them again. Fry them in hot lard and serve on a dish having a puree of Celeriac in the center. 96 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. CELERIAC PUREE FOR GARNITURE. No. 439. Prepare the Celeriac the same as No. 438. When the Celeriac is cooked strain and remove the gravy, then add four spoonfuls of Cream or Allemande sauce. Bub it all through a fine sieve and put it back in the saucepan. Then add a glass of cream to reduce it to its consistency. Before serving add a piece of butter and a few drops of meat glaze. CELERIAC STEWED, SPANISH STYLE. No. 440. Cut the Celeriac roots in scallops and prepare them the same way as Celery No. 463. CELERIAC STEWED, WITH ALLEMANDE OR CREAM SAUCE. No. 441. Cut the Celeriac roots in scallops and prepare them the same way as Celery Nos. 464 and 465. THE USE OF CELERIAC TOPS. No. 442. Celeriac tops are used principally for garnishing fag- gots and for flavoring soups, etc. CELERIAC WITH GRAVY (HALF-GLAZE). Fo. 443. When the Celeriac roots are peeled, cut them in quar- ters, then trim them all alike, and cook and serve them the same as Celery, No. 462. CELERIAC, FOR SOUPS. No. 444. Prepare the same as those with common celery. Celeriac should always be added with the common celery in soups or purees, as it gives it a better flavor. The roots are also used for all of the other vegetable soups when celery is used in their combination. CELERIAC, PRESERVED. No. 445. Peel and wash one dozen Celeriac roots and cut them in quarters. Trim them all the same size and parboil them for five minutes. Put two gallons of water in a saucepan, and when it boils put in it three spoonfuls of flour (diluted with a little cold water), the juice of three lemons and a little salt, and then add the Celeriac roots. When three-quarters cooked, take them off of the fire and let them cool. Then take out the Celeriac roots, dip them THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 97 in lukewarm water, and arrange them in quart tin cans. Cover them with cold-boiled water, lightly salted. Then solder on the covers and boil the cans in a hot water bath for one hour and a half. CELEKIAC PICKLED. No. 446. Peel one dozen Celeriac roots, and cut them all of even size, not too thin. Parboil them in water lightly salted, until three quarters cooked. Then drain them and arrange them in an earthen jar. Then boil some wine vinegar and pour it over the Celeriac in the jar, while hot. Add a few grains of pepper and a few fennel leaves. Cover the jar and let it stand until the next day, when you will drain otf the vinegar and put the Celeriac in glass jars. Put in a bowl four spoonfuls of English mustard flour. Dilute it with vinegar, add some red pepper, and mix it well together, to have a light gravy. Pour it over the Celeriac roots, then cover the jar and put it away. CELERIAC PRESERVED IN BRINE. No. 447. Peel and wash two dozen Celeriac roots, and cut them in quarters. Parboil them until three-quarters cooked. Then immerse them in cold water, drain them, and dry them on a napkin. Put them in earthen jars and cover them with a strong boiled brine, when cold. Cover them and let them lay for two days, and then drain otf the brine. Then boil the brine again, adding salt, to have it at about 16 or 18 degrees (sugar weight). When it is cold pour it over the Celeriac in the jars, put the covers on tight and put the jars in a cool place. When you are ready to use them soak them in fresh water for a few hours, and prepare them as required. XLIV. French CELERY. German Celeri. Selleri* No. 448. Celery is a hardy, umbelliferous biennial plant, and is always propagated from seed. The stems of the leaves are the parts of the plant that are used. These, after being blanched, are exceed- ingly crisp and tender, having an agreeable and peculiar aromatic flavor. They are prepared in various ways, but are generally served raw, for a relish, with salt or with oil, vinegar and mustard sauce. They are almost indispensable for salads. 98 HAKDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. CULTURE. No. 449. Sow the seed in shallow boxes, or in a finely prepared bed out of doors, in straight rows, so that the small plants may be kept free from weeds. When about two inches high, thin them out and transplant them so they will stand two inches apart. When they are about four inches high cut off the tops, which will cause them to grow stocky. The crop is usually an early one, and if good plants are used, they may be set out as late as the middle of August. The best results, however, are obtained by setting them out in the middle of June or the first of July. When setting them out, prepare broad, shallow trenches, about six inches deep and four feet apart, in which the plants should be set six inches apart. Cut off the outer leaves and press the soil firmly about the roots. In about six weeks the plants should be handled, which is done by having one man gather the leaves together while a second man draws the earth about the plant to one-third of its height, being careful that none of the earth falls between the leaves, as that would cause them to rust or rot. In a few days draw more earth around them, and repeat this process every few days until only the tops of the leaves are visible. In a few days more it will be fit for use. Do not disturb the plants when the ground is wet, as that will injure them. At the approach of severe, freezing weather, take up the plants and put them in a light cellar or an unused frame, where the tem- perature can be kept above the freezing point. Set them out compactly, so that all but the tops of the leaves can be covered with sand. They will then gradually blanch, and may be used throughout the winter. DWARF WHITE. No. 450. A favorite market variety of close habit, being solid, crisp and tender. SANDRINGHAM DWARF WHITE. No. 451. An excellent variety, remarkable for its fine flavor and solidity. GIANT WHITE SOLID. ) No. 452. This is of large size, solid and crisp. 'i WHITE WALNUT. No. 453. A dwarf habit seldom attaining a height of more than twenty iaches. It is solid and heavy, having a rich walnut -like THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 99 flavor. Its graceful and feather-like foliage, when blanched, makes it a most beautiful Celery for the table. HALF DWARF. No. 454. A remarkably fine white variety, intermediate in size between the Dwarf and Large White. When blanched it is of a yellowish white color, making it very ornamental for the table. It is entirely solid, possessing a rich nutty flavor. GOLDEN DWARF. No. 455. This is ar distinct variety in size, but grows similar to the Half Dwarf, except that when blanched the heart, which is large, is of a waxy golden yellow color, which renders it most striking. It is entirely solid, has an excellent flavor and keeps well during winter. LONDON BED. No. 456. The red Celery is generally superior to the white, being better flavored and more crisp. It is also hardier and keeps better in winter. The London Red is one of the best varieties, having every requisite goqd quality. MAJOR CLARK PINK. No. 457. There is a disposition to grow red or pink Celery in preference to the white, which is as it should be, for as regards the flavor the red and pink are far superior to the white. The Major Clark Pink is a variety of medium growth of stiff, close habit, hav- ing a large heart, remarkably solid and crisp, and of a fine walnut flavor. HOOD'S DWARF RED. No. 458. An excellent dwarf variety, solid and crisp. HOW TO PREPARE CELERY FOR GENERAL USE. No. 459. Trim off the green stems, then cut off the tops, leaving the yellow center leaves. Make two deep incisions in the bottom of the stalk, so as to be able to wash the Celery well in cold water. CELERY PLAIN, FOR RELISHES. No. 460. Trim the Celery, using only the tender hearts. Then put them in a basin, on ice, until ready for use, and then serve them 100 HAEDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. in Celery glasses. Serve with a sauce made of Anchovie paste r diluted with warmed sweet oil, without letting it boil, or plain Anchovie butter. It can also be served after dinner, plain, with the cheese. DRESSED CELEEY. No. 461. Trim and wash the Celery in cold water, letting it lay on ice until ready for use. Then dry it on a napkin and cut it in thin sliced sticks, an inch and a half long. Season it with salt, pepper, and a few spoonfuls of cream of mustard dressing. CELEEY WITH GRAVY (HALF-GLAZE). No. 462. Clean and wash the celery and cut it in bunches, five or six inches in length from the root. Tie them together, single or double. Then parboil them for three minutes, immerse them hi cold water and dry them on a napkin. Put some thin slices of fat pork in a saucepan and arrange the celery on it. Then season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar. Moisten it with veal gravy or a light Espagnole sauce, and cover with thin slices of fat pork. Put the saucepan on the fire, let it boil, and then cook slowly until tender and nicely glazed. Then put the Celery in a dish, strain the gravy through a fine sieve, and skim off the grease. Then pour the gravy over the Celery and serve. ' CELERY STEWED, SPANISH STYLE. No. 463. Clean and wash the Celery and cut the white part in pieces of even size two inches long. Parboil them for three minutes, then immerse them in cold water and dry them on a nap- kin. Put the Celery in a flat saucepan, with a piece of butter, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Cover the saucepan and let the Celery simmer until the moisture is reduced. Then cover it with white broth. Let it reduce on a brisk fire to a glaze, when the Celery must be cooked. Then add three spoonfuls of Tomato sauce and one of Espagnole sauce, and let it cook slowly for ten minutes. Add a small piece of butter, some parsley chopped fine, and toss it all well over a fire. Then serve with small toast of marrow around the dish as a garniture. CELERY STEWED WITH ALLEMANDE SAUCE. No. 464. Prepare the Celery the same as in No. 463, and when it is cooked to a glaze add four spoonfuls of Allemande sauce. When it is ready to serve add a small piece of butter, some finely THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 101 chopped parsley and the juice of one lemon. Toss it well over the fire and serve with small pieces of toast as a garniture. CELERY STEWED WITH CREAM SAUCE. No. 465. Prepare the Celery the same as in No. 464, and add Cream sauce in place of Allemande sauce. Instead of lemon juice -add a few drops of meat glaze, and then serve. CELERY SAUCE. No. 466. Cut the tender part of two heads of Celery in pieces one inch long, or smaller if desired. Put them in a saucepan with enough water to cover them and season with salt. Let them boil until tender and then drain off half of the water. Add a pint of boiling milk and when it all boils add four ounces of butter in which you will mix two spoonfuls of flour, stirring it gently until melted. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, letting it boil 10 or 15 minutes. CELERY FRIED, VILLEROI. No. 467. When the Celery is trimmed and washed, cut the ten- der stems in pieces four inches long. Parboil them for five minutes, then immerse them in cold water and drain them on a napkin. Put them in a saucepan with some broth to cover them, and season with salt, pepper and a little sugar. Let them cook slowly until tender, then take them out and drain off the moisture on a napkin. Then dip them in a cool Villeroi sauce, and place them on a pan in a cool place. When the sauce is firm trim them, roll them in fresh bread crumbs, then dip them in beaten eggs and bread them again. Fry them in hot lard and serve them on a napkin, with fried parsley to garnish. CELERY WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. No. 468. Prepare the Celery the same as in No. 464. Add to the Allemande sauce some fine grated Parmesan cheese. Put the Celery in a buttered baking dish or in shells. Sprinkle the top with bread crumbs and grated cheese, and add a small piece of but- ter on top. Wipe off the borders clean and put it in an oven to bake. CELERY FOR GARNITURE. No. 469. Prepare the same as in Nos. 452, 463, 464, and 465, with but very little sauce. The Celery in No. 462 is ussd for large 102 HABDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. garnitures. As a garniture for salad borders use it as follows: Trim all of the green leaves from the bottom of a head of celery, and cut it in pieces two inches long. Then slice it thin and cut the broad stems an inch deep, without detaching them. Then lay them in cold water for an hour, and they will be nicely frizzled. That is, the little shreds will be curled. When using Celery for the center of a salad, take the heart of the Celery and slice it thin a few inches from the top, and lay the pieces in cold water for an hour, when it will be nicely frizzled. This makes an attractive garniture over the salad. CELERY PUREE, FOR GARNITURE. No. 470. Clean and trim six heads of Celery, cut the white parts in small pieces and parboil them for ten minutes. Then immerse them in cold water, drain them dry, and put the Celery in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and season it with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Add some white broth to cover it, then cover the saucepan and put it on a brisk fire to cook. When the moisture is reduced, and the Celery well cooked, add one pint of Allemande or Cream sauce. Rub it all through a fine sieve, then put it back in the saucepan and add a cup of cream to reduce it to its proper consistency, stirring it well with a wooden spoon. Add a small piece of butter before serving. CELERY, WITH WHITE OR BROWN SAUCE. No. 471. When the Celery' is cleaned, cut the tender parts in pieces half an inch long. Parboil them for five minutes, then im- merse them in cold water and drain them in a colander. Then put the Celery in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and season it with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Then cover the sauce- pan and let the Celery simmer for ten minutes, not letting it get brown. Then moisten it with white broth, letting it reduce so as to glaze the Celery lightly. Then add Espagnole, Allemande or Cream sauce, as may be desired. CELERY SALAD. No. 472. When the Celery is trimmed and washed, cut it in short, thick Juliennes. Season it with salt, pepper, vinegar and oil, and add some chives, chopped fine. Mix it all well together, and when ready for use dress it in a salad bowl and garnish with sliced tomatoes or beets, cut in fancy shapes. NOTE. 'When Celery is used in chicken or lobster salad, cut it in fine slices. It will preserve salad better than lettuce, when the salad is kept a length of time before using. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 103 CELERY BROTH. No. 473. Clean and wash four heads of Celery, then cut them in pieces three inches long. Put them in a saucepan with one gallon of water. Let it boil slowly until the broth is reduced to one quart, and then strain it through a napkin. Drink it warm or cold. This is a very good beverage for nervousness. CELERY SOUP PUREE, SPANISH STYLE. No. 474. Clean and wash six heads of Celery and trim off all of the green parts. Cut the tender parts in small pieces, one inch long, mixed with two celery roots sliced fine. Parboil them for five minutes, then immerse them in cold water and drain and dry them. Then put the Celery in a saucepan, with a piece of butter, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Cover the sauce- pan and let it simmer until the moisture is reduced. Then add two quarts of white broth and a faggot of parsley, garnished with leeks and green onions. Let it boil until the Celery is well cooked, and then add one gallon of thickened veal or chicken broth. Let it all boil slowly for twenty minutes, then take out the faggot and strain the soup through a fine sieve. Then put it back in the saucepan to keep warm. When ready to serve, add a pint of cream, diluted with the yolks of six raw eggs, four ounces of butter, and some parsley chopped fine. Mix this all well together off from the fire until the butter is melted. Add some small fried bread crumbs before serving. CELERY CREAM SOUP. No. 475. Prepare the celery the same as in No. 474, and when it is thoroughly cooked in the broth add three quarts of Cream sauce. Rub it through a fine sieve and put it back in the saucepan to keep it warm. Before serving it, add half a pound of butter in small pieces, stirring it all well until the butter is thoroughly merged in the soup. Also add some chervil chopped fine. The soup must not be too thick. Farina or vermicelli, cooked in white broth, may be added. CELERY PUREE, PRESERVED. No. 476. Clean and trim six heads of Celery, using only the white, tender part, and four Celery roots. Slice them all in small pieces and put them in a saucepan. Cover them with boiling water and add a piece of butter and a little salt. Cover the saucepan and let them cook until tender. Then rub the puree through a fine 104 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. sieve and put it in pint tin cans. Solder on the covers and boil the cans in a hot water bath for one hour and a half. When it is to be used, finish it with Allemande or Cream sauce. PRESERVED CELERY. No. 477. Prepare one dozen heads of Celery, cut them in pieces six inches long, and parboil them for five minutes. Immerse them in cold water, and then drain and dry them. Put them in a sauce- pan with one gallon of water. When it boils, add to it three spoonfuls of flour, diluted in cold water, and also add the juice of three lemons and a little salt. When it is half cooked take it off of the fire and let it get cold. Then take out the Celery, one piece at a time, and dip them in lukewarm water to clean them. Then arrange them in tin cans (same as asparagus), and pour over them some cold-boiled water, lightly salted. Add the juice of one lemon in each can. Solder on the cover, boil the cans in a hot water bath for two hours. CELERY PRESERVED IN BRINE. No. 478. Prepare the Celery and then cut each head in pieces six inches long. Parboil them until they are three-quarters cooked, then immerse them in cold water, then drain and dry them on a napkin. Put them in an earthen jar and cover them with a brine at 18 or 20 degrees (sugar weight), when cold. Cover the jar, and in two days remove the brine and put on the fire to boil., Add more salt, to bring it to the same degree as before. When it is cold, pour it over the Celery to cover it well. Put the cover on the jar tight and set it in a cool place. When ready for use soak the Celery in fresh water for several hours, and prepare it as required. CELERY VINEGAR. No. 479. Cut four heads of Celery in small pieces. Put them in an earthen jar with four ounces of Celery seed, one ounce of pulver- ized white sugar, and half an ounce of salt. Pour two quarts of boiled vinegar, when hot, over this. Cover the jar, and in two weeks strain it through a filter. Then put it in bottles and cork well. CELERY FLAVOR. No. 480. Put two ounces of Celery seed in a quart bottle and fill it with brandy. Cork it tight and let it lay for two weeks, when it will be ready for use. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 105 ARTICLE French CENTAURY. German Centaure'e. Tausendgiildenkraut. No. 481. This is a small annual herbaceous plant, which grows wild. It is about a foot high, having a branching stem which divides above into pairs, and bears oval, smooth pointed leaves, direct from the stem. The flowers are rose colored. The herb has no odor, but has a strong bitter taste, and its tonic properties are similar to those of gentian. It is used in cases of dyspepsia and fever. The roots make a valuable yellow dye. The flowers are gathered in bunches, hung in a dark, airy, warm room, and when thoroughly dried are kept in boxes, in a dry place. They are used in diet drinks (tisanes), see Article LXXXII. ARTICLE; XLVI. CHAMOMILE. Camomille. Camomile. No. 482. The single and double flowering Chamomile are propa- gated by slips, with a few of the small roots attached, both kinds being claimed as hardy perennials. In the Northern States the plants are frequently destroyed by severe frost. The single Chamo- mile, though considered more efficacious for medicinal purposes, is not cultivated as much as tlie double flowering variety. They may be grown from leaves or slips. The leaves, when cut fine and burned, emit a peculiar, pungent odor. The flowers, which are the parts generally used, are in. high repute, both in the popular and scientific materia medica, and give out their properties by infusion in either water or alcohol. The flowers are also used in the manufac- ture of bitter beer, and along with wormwood are used to a certain extent as a substitute for hops. It is considered a safe bitter and tonic, though strong infusions, when taken warm, act sometimes as an emetic. CULTUEE. No. 483. Chamomile flourishes best in light poor soil, and is generally propagated by dividing the roots and setting them in rows that are a foot apart with the plants ten inches from each other. They grow fast and soon entirely cover the ground. 106 HARDEK'S AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICLE: French CHERVIL. German Cerfeuil. Gartenkerbel. No. 434. Chervil is an aromatic plant that is used for aroma- tizing certain dishes, bat should be used with moderation in soups and salads. CULTURE. * No. 485. Sow it thinly in May in drills half an inch deep and one foot apart. TUBEROUS ROOTED. No. 436. Sow this variety in April and treat it the same as car- rots. ARTICLB XLVIII. CHESTNUT. Chataigne. Kaslanle. No. 487. The Chestnut is the fruit of the chestnut tree. It contains a large proportion of sugary matter, and is eaten either green or roasted. It is used as a garniture with braized meats, and can be added to all kinds of forced meats and to stuffing for turkeys, capons, geese, and chickens. Confectioners use chestnuts to a large extent. They rarely keep through the season. All first-class grocers keep them in a preserved state. SOUP-PUREE OF CHESTNUTS, No. 488. Roast six dozen large chestnuts, and then put them in boiling water to peel off the inner skin. Put them in the sauce- pan, with enough broth to cover them. Cover the pan and let them cook slowly until tender, and then rub them through a fine sieve. Put them back in the saucepan and add one gallon of thickened chicken or veal broth. Set it on the fire and stir it with a wooden spoon until it boils. Then add a glass of Madeira wine and season to taste. Set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly for half an hour and then skim it well. Then strain it through a fine sieve, after which put it back in a saucepan to keep warm. When ready to serve it add a piece of butter and a garniture of asparagus tops. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 107 SOUP-CREAM OF CHESTNUTS, HUNTER'S STYLE. No. 489. Prepare the Chestnuts as in No. 488. Put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and moisten with enough broth to cook them. Then rub them through a fine sieve. Put this puree in a saucepan with one gallon of thickened game broth. Mix it well, stirring it until it boils, and season it to taste. Let it boil slowly for twenty minutes and then take off the grease. Strain it into another saucepan through a fine sieve. When ready to serve put sis ounces of butter and six ounces of puree of partridge (diluted with the yolks of six raw eggs, and a pint of cream), into another saucepan and then pour the puree in slowly while stirring it. Care must be taken not to let it boil or else it will curdle. SOUP GARBURE WITH CHESTNUTS, POLIGNAC. No. 490. Peel three dozen large Chestnuts, then pour over them some boiling water to peel off the inner skin. Line the bottom of a saucepan with thin slices of fat pork, put on top of this three pounds of veal trimmings. Add three raw onions, in which stick six cloves, then add three carrots, a faggot of parsley garnished with celery, in which tie two bay leaves and a few grains of pepper. Lay the Chestnuts over this and cover the whole with thin slices of fat pork. Moisten this with good broth, to cover it, and let it simmer until well cooked. Then take out the Chestnuts and split each one in half. Then put in a deep baking dish a layer of thin slices of toasted bread, then a layer of the Chestnuts, and keep on alternating this way until the dish is full. Strain the broth that the Chestnuts were cooked in, and pour some over it and set it in an oven to gratinate. Serve with a soup tureen of good consomme. PUREE OF CHESTNUTS. No. 491. Peel two pounds of Chestnuts, and pour over them some lightly salted boiling water, to peel off the inner skin. Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and toss them over the fire a few minutes. Then moisten them with a glass of white wine and some broth. Cover the saucepan and let them cook until tender. Then take them all out and pound them through a colan- der, and rub them through a fine seive. Put the puree in a saucepan to keep warm, and before serving add a piece of butter and a soup-spoonful of meat glaze. This may be served as a garni- ture. When served as a vegetable, garnish the puree with sausages cliipolata. 10S HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. GLAZED CHESTNUTS. No. 492. Roast two pounds of Chestnuts; peel them and re- move the inner skin. Put them in a frying-pan Avith half a pint of water and two ounces of sugar. Let them boil until the moisture is reduced and the chestnuts are nicely glazed. Add the juice of a lemon, and toss them over well. Then roll them lightly in pow- dered suuar. XLIX. French CHICK PEA, OR EGYPTIAN PEA. Ccrnmn Chiche. Chich. No. 493. The Chick Pea is a hardy annual plant, originally from the south of Europe. The stem is about three feet high, erect and branching. The pods are about an inch long, three-quarters of an inch Avide, and are somewhat rhomboidal in shape, being inflated or bladder-like, and containing three globular, Avrinkled, pea-like seeds. The peas, though not very digestible, are employed for soup in purees, and are sometimes roasted and ground and mixed with the common variety of coffee. CULTURE. No. 494. So\v in April, in the same manner as garden peas. The drills should be three feet apart, and the seed sown an inch and a half deep. Keep the ground free from weeds, and harvest before the complete maturity of the seeds. RED CHICK PEA. No. 495. This is a variety Avith red or brownish-red seeds. WHITE CHICK PEA. No. 496. Similar to the common A r ariety in size, but has white seeds. % YELLOW CHICK PEA. No. 497 This variety has yellow seeds, and is much used. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 109 L. French CHICKLING WITCH, OR SPANISH LENTIL. German Gesse. Gesse. No. 498. This is principally cultivated for its seeds, the flour from which is mixed with wheat flour or rye, and made into bread. The seeds are irregularly shaped and of a dun or brownish color, having a pleasant flavor. They are sown at the same time and in the same manner as the taller kinds of garden peas. ARTICLE: LI. CHICCORY, OR SUCCORY. Chiccoree. Cigorien. No. 499. Chiccory is extensively used by Germans as a substitute for coffee, and large quantities of the prepared root are annually exported to this country for a similar purpose. It is also prepared in this country now. CULTUEE. No. 500. Chiccory is cultivated the same as carrots. In the fall the roots should be taken up and cut in small pieces and put where they will dry. Dry them the same as you would dry apples. When required for use it should be roasted and ground like coffee. ARTICLE LII. CHINESE SPINACH. Amarante. Amaranth, No. 501. This is a hardy annual plant, originally from China. The stems are three feet high, having many branches that are pro- lific with green leaves variegated with red. They are long and sharply pointed. The leaves are used in the same manner as spin- ach and resemble it in taste. Sow them in April in good garden soil, and they will yield abundantly during most of the summer. 110 HABDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY, ARTICLE LI 1 1. French CHINESE YAM, OR POTATO. German Igname. Yam-wurzd. No. 502. This is a most valuable esculent, little known in this country. It grows rapidly and has creeping habits. The flowers, which are white and grow in clusters, have a cinnamon fragrance. The root is of a pale russet color, oblong, regularly rounded, and globe shaped, being largest at the lower end. The flesh is remark- ably white and very rnucillaginous in its good state. When boiled or roasted they possess a rice-like taste. They are quite farina- ceous and nutritive, being much whiter and finer grained than our potatoes. ARTICLE LIV. CHIVES, OR WELSH ONION. Cice ou Civette. Hohllauch. No. 503. The Welsh Onion is a hardy perennial, said to have originated in Siberia. It is quite distinct from the common onion as it forms no bulbs, but produces numerous elongated, angular tunicated stems, not unlike scullions or the smaller variety of leeks. The young stems and leaves are used during winter and spring as salad. COMMON OR RED WELSH ONION. No. 504. The skin or pellicle is of a reddish - brown color, changing to a silvery white about the base of the leaves. The plant is about a foot high and is hardy and early. WHITE WELSH ONION. No. 505. This is a sub-variety of the common red onion. The skin is rose-white and changes to silver-white at the upper portion of the stem. The leaves are longer, deeper in color, firmer and less liable to wither and decay than the common variety. The upper part of the stem is considered better and more tender, and has a milder flavor than other varieties, though it is less productive. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. Ill ARTICLE French COMMON CHIVES. ternian Ciboulette. Schnittlauch. No. 506. The Chive is a hardy, bulbous-rooted perennial plant. The leaves, which are produced in tufts, are seven or eight inches long, erect and cylindrical in shape. The young leaves are the parts of the plant used, and to keep them in a fresh and tender condition the plants should be frequently shorn to the ground. They possess the flavor peculiar to the onion family, and are principally used as an ingredient in soups and spring salads. For omelets the Chive is considered almost indispensable. ( See omelet with herbs.) CULTURE. No. 507. As the plant seldom, if ever, produces seeds, it is always propagated by a division of the roots or bulbs. The bulbs are planted in May, two or three together, in rows 15 inches apart, and covered three inches deep. They require little attention, and increase rapidly. If not cut to excess, a plant will continue for vears. ARTICLE LVI. CHUFA, OR EARTH NUT. Glun de terre. Erdnus. No. 508. This is a perennial plant that originated in the south of Europe. The roots are long and fibrous, and produce at their extremities numerous oblong, jointed, pale brown tubers, about the size of a filbert. The flesh of the tubers is tender, having a yellowish color, and a pleasant, sweet, nut-like flavor. When the tubers are dried they taste somewhat like almonds, and keep a long time. When dried and pulverized, they impart to water the color and richness of milk. They are eaten raw or roasted. CULTURE. No. 509. They succeed well in California. Plant the tubers in April, two inches deep, in drills two feet apart. They will be ready for harvesting in October. 112 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICLE LVII. CICELY SWEET, OR SWEET-SCENTED CHERVIL. French German Cerfeuil adorant. Spanish Kerbel. No. 510. This is a hardy perennial plant that is not cultivated to any extent. It is aromatic, but is seldom used for seasoning. ARTICLE; LVII I. CINNAMON. Cannelle. Zimmet. No. 511. The tree which produces the Cinnamon is supposed to have come originally from the Island of Ceylon, and is called the Cinnamon tree, or Kerandee, by the natives there. The leaves are similar to the bay leaves, and have the same flavor as the tree. The Cinnamon is the second peeling of the tree and is thin and smooth. It is of a yellowish red color, and has an agreeable, sweet and piquant flavor. It is largely used by pastry cooks and confection- ers and for various culinary purposes, both in sticks and ground. Cinnamon is also cultivated in Tonquin, but only in the King's domain. Cinnamon flavor mixes, and tastes better, with prepara- tions made with milk than any other flavor. ARTICLE: LIX. CLARY. Sclaree. Scharlei. No. 512. The leaves of this plant are sometimes used for flavoring certain soups. They impart a strong peculiar flavor, agreeable to some but unpleasant to most persons. It has some of the properties of common sage, and is occasionally sold and used as a substitute for it. It is rarely cultivated. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 113 LX. French CLAVARIA (a variety Of Mushrooms). German Champignon. Champignon. No. 513. There are several varieties of this fungus, all of which are edible and many are indigenous to our woods, being found in damp, shady places. For its preparation see Mushrooms. ARTICLE LXI. CLOVES. Gerojle. Nelken. No. 514. Cloves are principally used for culinary purposes, and also by confectioners and distillers. As their flavor is very strong they should always be used in moderation. In the Indies they make a jelly of the green fruit, which is exported in large quanti- ties to this country. It is highly esteemed there and very expen- sive here. ARTICLE; LXI I. COCOA. Coco ou Cocoa. Cacao. No. 515. Cocoa is the fruit of the Cocoa tree, which grows in abundance in South America. The tree is about the size of a chestnut tree, and produces ribbed pods, which contain from 25 to 50 seeds, which resemble ground almonds, and are covered with a dry pelicule. They have a bitter taste. There are several different varieties, namely, those of Caracas, of Ceylon, of Berbiche, of Saint Madelaine, and of Saint Domingo islands. They all differ in size and flavor. The best are those from Caracas, being lightly flattened and resembling our broad beans. The next best are those from St. Madelaine and Berbiche. It is less flattened than the Caracas variety, and its pelicule is covered with a fine, ash-colored powder. The other varieties are much more bitter and oily, and are mostly 8 Ill HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. used to make the Cocoa Butter. The germ of the Cocoa is always at the thick end, while iii our almonds it is at the small end. The Cocoa of Caracas, St. Madelaine and Berbiche, mixed in equal quantities, makes the best quality of chocolate. This mixture gives an unctuous, oleaginous matter which chocolate should always possess. If chocolate is made simply from the Caracas Cocoa it will be too dry, while that made from the others alone would be too oily and bitter. Hence, the combination mentioned is necessary. After the Caracas beans are picked they are buried in the ground for four or six weeks, which causes them to lose some of their bitter taste. Care must be taken or they will have an exceedingly moisty flavor. The Caracas Cocoa, mixed with the others, always makes the best chocolate. The cocoa, broma and chocolate we drink are made from Cocoa. When made into chocolate, it is ground into a paste and mixed with sugar, etc. There are several grades, some for eating, some for candies and creams, and some for beverages. Cocoa and broma are more healthful as a breakfast beverage than chocolate, as the latter is too rich. GROUND COCOA. No. 516. Dilute two table-spoonfuls of ground Cocoa, with two spoonfuls of water. Then put it in a small saucepan and moisten it with three cupfuls of boiling milk or water. Stir it well and let it boil five minutes. Then sweeten it to taste. SHELL COCOA. No. 517. Put two ounces of half-broken Cocoa in a saucepan with one quart of boiling water. Let it boil slowly for half an hour, or until half of the moisture is reduced. Add a little milk if desired and sweeten to taste. This is preferred by people whose stomachs are deiicate. BROMA. No. 518. This is made the same as Cocoa. CHOCA. No. 519. Take a cup of chocolate, a cup of coffee and a cup of cream, and mix them well together. This makes a delicious bev- erage. PLAIN CHOCOLATE. No. 520. Scrape o-r break two ounces of Chocolate in small pieces. Put it in a saucepan with two table- spoonfuls of boiling THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 115 water, stirring it until it is melted. Then add two cupfuls of hot boiled milk. Sweeten to taste. As soon as it commences to boil, take it off of the fire and serve. POT CHOCOLATE. No. 521. The best Chocolate is made in a pot expressly made for this purpose, in which there is a silver whisk. Put four cup- fuls of milk or water in a chocolate pot. (Or put one ounce of Chocolate to one cup of milk.) When the milk boils add the fine grated Chocolate. When the Chocolate is melted and well mixed, set it on the side of the fire for ten minutes to keep warm. Then take the whisk between the palms of both hands and make it revolve backwards and forwards briskly until the Chocolate is whipped to a froth. Then serve. CHOCOLATE, WITH EGGS OR CREAM. No. 522. Grate four ounces of Chocolate, and put it in a saucepan with four soup-spoonfuls of boiling water, and stir it until it is melted. While stirring it, add in slowly five cupfuls of boiling milk. Let it boil up once, then sweeten it to taste, and set it on the side of the fire to keep warm. Have ready the whites of four eggs, whipped to a stiff froth. Add half of this quantity to the Chocolate, mixing it well. Sweeten the remaining half of the eggs with powdered sugar. Serve the Chocolate in cups, with a spoonful of the sweetened egg froth on top. NOTE. Chocolate can be made as above, with cream instead of eggs. Add the cream when the Chocolate is ready to serve, having it whipped to a froth and flavored with vanilla. Stir it well when you put it in, so the hot Chocolate will warm it, without letting it boil. NOTE. Chocolate can be made with water or milk, or with both, mixed in equal quantities. This is merely a matter of taste, as some prefer it with water and others with milk or cream. When sweetened Chocolate is used, no sugar, or very little, should be added, as the delicate flavor is des- troyed when too sweet. Sweeten plain Chocolate to taste. Never keep Chocolate on the fire boiling. ADULTERATED CHOCOLATE. No. 523. Chocolate is often adulterated J3y unprincipled manu- facturers, which makes it a most vile compound instead of the nutritious beverage intended. They use small, common Cocoa, first extracting the Cocoa butter, and then mix with the remaining Cocoa a quantity of grilled sweet almonds. They also use the refuse of coarse brown sugar in place of pure sugar, and as a substitute for vanilla they use common storax, which is the sawdust of the Tonqua 116 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. tree; but persons experienced in flavor will detect the difference immediately. Impure Chocolate is also adulterated with butter, potato flour, starch, and other heterogeneous substances. LXIII. French COFFEE. German Cafe. Kafee. No. 524. Coffee is produced on a small bushy tree. The flowers are odorous, and the fruit jelly-like, having two seeds. Coffee is said to have originated in Arabia, but is now cultivated in different parts of the world. The Arabian historian, Ahmet Effeudi, wrote that Coffee was first used in Arabia in the fifteenth century. The Egyptians prepare a drink with Coffee which the Arabs call Kawa. Coffee was introduced in France by the Venetians in 1657, after which its use became universal. There are five principal varieties of Coffee. The Mocha is considered the best, and is divided in three classes namely, the Baouri, which is the best and is hardly ever obtainable in this country, as it is reserved for the highest classes in Arabia and Turkey; the Saki and the Salabi. The Coffee from Martinique, Java, Bio and Guadaloupe, is considered next best in quality. The grades from Santa Domingo, Costa Bica, and all other kinds, are of inferior qu ility. Coffee is now in use all over the civilized world, and is largely adulterated with the chiccory root, especially when ground. For this reason Coffee should always be procured in beans and ground when required. It will keep its flavor better in this way. Adulterated Coffee was first used in 1808, during the campaign of Napoleon. The dealers, seeing the large profit that could be made by combining chiccory with Coffee, adopted it, and even claimed that chiccory improved Coffee, which is not so. Most of the ground Coffee now prepared and sold by unscrupulous dealers is adulterated with chiccory, ground peas and common Coffee beans. Coffee beans are roasted in Coffee roasters that can be purchased from dealers. It is better to buy Coffee beans in their green state as their quality can then be better distin- guished than when roasted. The interior of the Coffee roaster is round, and the beans when being turned in the receptacle will roll over and over, and thus get evenly roasted on the surface of the hot roller. Commence to roast the Coffee over a slow fire, so it Avill be gradually and thoroughly browned, which will take place in about THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 117 forty-five minutes. When ifc is browned take it out of the roaster and spread it on a blanket. It will then emit an agreeable odor. Turn it occasionally to cool it } and when cold put it in jars corked tight and grind it when needed. The Mocha Coffee has the best flavor, and is generally mixed with Java or Bio. This makes the best black Coffee. The Coffee from Martinique and Costa Rica, when mixed, is the best to use when milk is added. Coffee when ground is made by infusion. French and American coffee pots are so well known that no description of them is necessary. Either can be used. Coffee should always be made fresh, and care should be taken to have the water to the boiling point before it is poured over the Coffee. Coffee should not remain long in tin pots, as it contains an ingredient that combines with tin or iron, and imparts a disagreeable flavor when it lays for any length of time. For this reason when large quantities are made at a time it should be kept in earthen jars. When Coffee is left over, after a meal, always put it in an earthen jar to use the following day. Coffee is now made as it Avas years ago. The Orientals do not strain it. They boil it with the sugar in and serve it in cups, sus- pended below a punctured shell, called fitzyanes. Coffee made and served in this manner does not excite the nerves as when made in the French or American styles, but the latter modes are considered the best. When using a French coffee pot the boiling water has to drain through the ground Coffee and runs clear immediately. Hence it is unnecessary to clarify it. When it is boiled in a sauce- pan and clarified with eggs or other substances, it loses much of its strength and flavor. Some physicians advance the theory that Coffee is injurious to health, but this is a fallacy, when it is used in moderation. A certain gourmet of advanced years, yet in robust health, was in the habit of imbibing a cup of Coffee after every meal. One evening while at dinner in the Palace Hotel with his friend, a well-known physician, the latter remarked casually that Coffee was a slow poison, and urged the gourmet to discontinue its use. "Well," remarked the gourmet, with a sly twinkle in his eye, " I agree with you on that point, but I must say that it is terrible slow, for I have been using it continuously for the past seventy years, and am still alive and well." The doctor then subsided. REMARKS ON MIXING COFFEE. No. 525. Coffee is easy to make, but must be made with care. The principal point is not to have your Coffee beans ground or roasted too long before vising, and to always use good Coffee. To one pound of Mocha add two pounds of Java, or use one pound 118 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. of Mocha, one pound of Java, and one pound of Costa Rica or Rio. These mixtures make the best Coffee. Coffee is made best in the so-called French coffee pots, which are made for large or small quantities. AVhen boiling Coffee, the aroma evaporates to a con- siderable extent, which does not occur in French c >ffee pots. Ground Coffee should never be boiled when it can be done other- wise. Always use boiled milk or warm cream with Coffee, as cold milk injures the taste of the Coffee. Black Coffee, or cafe noir, is always taken after dinner, and should be made stronger than breakfast Coffee. It is served with brandy, kirschwasser or rum, which is put in the Coffee, or first burnt with sugar, as m&y be desired. It is called brulo. It facilitates digestion and excites the faculties of the mind. COFFEE FOR FAMILY USE. No. 526. To make ordinary breakfast Coffee, use four ounces of ground Coffee to one quart of boiling water. When using the French coffee pot, put the Coffee in the upper vessel with the strainer over it. Pour a little of the boiling water over it slowly, and in five minutes pour over the rest of the water until it is all in the bottom. Keep the pot in a warm place, not letting the Coffee boil. Take about three cupfuls of the Coffee out of the bottom and strain it through the top again. Repeat this once more, as it makes the Coffee stronger, and then it will be ready for use. When making Black Coffee for after dinner, use more Coffee or less water to make it strong. BOILED COFFEE, No. 1. No. 527. When no French coffee pot is used, the Coffee must be boiled in a saucepan and strained through a double thickness of flannel. When making Coffee in large quantities in a saucepan, put five pounds of ground Coffee in a saucepan, two fresh raw eggs, and a cupful of cold water. Mix it all well together with a wooden spoon, and then pour in, slowly at first, five gallons of boiling water, stirring it at the same time. Then set it on a brisk fire, and as the Coffee rises to the top press it down with a spoon. Let it boil up once, and then set it on the side of the fire to keep warm, not letting it boil. Drop half a cupful of cold water over the top, in drops, and the Coffee will settle immediately. Do this, if in a hurry, otherwise it will settle naturally in five or ten minutes. Strain it all through a double thickness of flannel, and it is ready for use. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 119 BOILED COFFEE, No. 2. No. 528. When using a boiler (in which there is a faucet three inches from the bottom, with a fine strainer inside ), and the Coffee is made as in No. 1, it need not be strained through flannel. Set it on the side of the fire to keep the Coffee warm, and put a piece of iron under the boiler to keep it a distance away from the fire. Then sprinkle half a cupful of cold water over the top, put the cover on tight, and in ten minutes run the Coffee out until it runs clear. Then you will pour it back in the boiler. After this it will all run perfectly clear if not allowed to boil. COFFEE, GERMAN STYLE. No. 529. Mix one quart of made Coffee and one quart of boiled milk, and boil them together. This will impart a pleasant flavor to the Coffee. ESSENCE OF COFFEE, FOR CREAMS. No. 530. Mix half a pound of Mocha and half a pound of Java, and pour over it a pint of boiling water. Cover the saucepan tight and let it stand in a warm place for ten minutes. Then strain it through a French coffee pot, pouring it through the strainer twice again. When cold put the Coffee in bottles, and use it as needed. COFFEE ICE. No. 531. Take a small cup of Coffee and put it in a tumbler with the same quantity of water and a lump of ice. Sweeten it a little. This makes a delightful, refreshing summer beverage, which will be greatly appreciated at a light luncheon. ARTICLE LXIV. French COLT'S-FOOT, COMMON. German Tussilaye. Huflattich. No. 532. This is a hardy, herbaceous perennial plant. The leaves are small, radical, roundish and heart-shaped, and from five to seven inches in diameter. The plants blossom in February or March, before the appearance of the leaves, and often while the ground is frozen and covered with snow. The leaves are the parts of the 120 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. plant used, and are generally cut in July and September. In drying, spread them singly in an airy, shaded situation, but do not expose them to the sun. They are beneficial in cases of colds and pulmon- ary complaints. CULTURE. No. 533. Colt's Foot thrives best in rich, moist soil. It may be propagated from seeds, but is generally cultivated by dividing its long, creeping roots. ARTICLE LXV. French CORIANDER. German Coriandre. Kori^nder. No. 534. Coriander is a hardy, annual, aromatic plant, that is cultivated for its seeds, which have an agreeable taste, and are used by confectioners and distillers, and by druggists to disguise the taste of medicine. When young, the leaves are used the same as chervil. CULTURE. No. 535. Sow them early in spring. When gathering them for the seeds, care should be taken not to bruise the stems or leaves, as when bruised they have a disagreeable odor, which is imparted to the seeds. They should be gathered on a dry day. ARTICLE LXVI. CORN POPPY, OR COQUELICOT. Ci qiielic<,t. Die Kornroke. No. 536^ This is a red flower, which grows wild in corn fields. The petals are separated and spread out to dry when they are gathered. Separate them if they adhere to each other. When well dried, put them in a dark, dry place. They are used for diet drinks (tisanes.) THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 121 ARTICLE LXVII CORN SALAD, OR LAMB LETTUCE. German Mache. Li/mmeraalat. No. 537. This small salad is used during winter and spring as a substitute for lettuce. It is also prepared and cooked the same as spinach. The Corn Salad that grows natural is" better than that which is cultivated. It is used in salads, and when mixed with beets and celery it improves it as a breakfast salad. CULTURE. No. 538. Sow the seed during August or September, in shallow drills about one foot apart. If the soil is dry it should be pressed firmly over the seed in order to secure prompt germination. Cover them with straw upon the approach of severely cold weather. The plants will also do well if grown in spring, and, like most salad plants, are greatly improved if grown in very rich soil. The ground can scarcely be made too rich for them. In warm weather the plants will mature in from four to six weeks. CORN SALAD. No. 539. Wash the Salad in plenty of cold water. Then drain it and put it on a salrad dish and season it with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Parsley or chives, chopped fine, may bo added if desired. CORN SALAD, WITH BEETS. No. 540. Prepare the Salad the same as in No. 539. Add some cold boiled sliced beets. Handle it carefully. This is a good breakfast Salad. CORN SALAD, WITH CELERY. No. 541. Cut the celery in a small Julienne, and prepare as in No. 539. Endives or watercress can also be added. 122 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICLK LXVIII. Frcnc!i CORN. Ciernian Mais. Mais, or Korn, No. 542. The garden variety of Corn for t ible use, is distinct from the field Corn variety. It is much relished in this country, especially so when used in its fresh state. When dried, it is cracked and ground into hominy, of which there are several kind-s, which are much used for breakfast, either boiled or fried. It is ground into meal (white and yellow), which is used for making bread and cakes. It is delicious when used as a mush with milk or cream. Corn starch is made from Corn, and is much used for custards, cream and various other pastry preparations. It is also a healthy nourishment for invalids and infants, and may be used for all preparations for which arrow root is used. CULTURE. No. 543. A rich, warm, alluvial soil is best, and before planting it should be as deeply and thoroughly worked as possible. Culti- vate it deeply and thoroughly as soon as the plants appear, and then every few days until it tassels. Thorough cultivation and warm rich soil are the key notes to success. EARLY MARBLEHEAD. No. 544. This is the best and earliest sweet corn, and is of excellent quality. The stalks are short, having many suckers from the root. The ears are long, but of medium width, with only a few husks. The cob is red and the kernels are small, broad and shallow, of a white color, sometimes tinged with red. They must be cooked quickly in boiling water, because the red cob will color the grain if it is allowed to simmer over a slow fire, or allowed to remain in the water after being cooked. DOLLY BUTTON. No. 545. The stalks are very short, with but few suckers. The ears are small and straight and well covered with husks. This is the smallest kind in cultivation. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 123 EXTRA EARLY ADAMS. No. 546. Nearly as early as the Dolly Dutton, but inferior in qual- ity. Will succeed in the South where others fail. The stalks are very short, with no suckers. It bears a single, very full, round short ear. It is well covered with husks, and the kernels are white and smooth. EARLY MINNESOTA. No. 547. This is later than the Adams best. An old and popu- lar variety. The stalks are short and not suckering, bearing one or two ears well covered with husks. Ears long, and pointed. Kernels very broad, sweet and tender. It does net shrink much in drying. EARLY RED NARAGANSETT. No 548. One of the best red varieties of sugar corn grown. The kernels are much shriveled, and exceedingly sweet and tender. It is esteemed as one of the very best table varieties. CROSBY'S EXTRA EARLY. No 549. A most excellent variety, with ears of large size and medium length ; sweet, rich, and delicate. RUSSELL'S EARLY PROLIFIC SUGAR. No 550. This comes into use a few days after the Crosby, and is of excellent quality. It is very productive, and one of the best kinds for family use. EARLY SWEET SUGAR. No. 551. The ears are of good size, tender, and sugary. The plant is productive, hearty, and quite early. MOORE'S EARLY CONCORD SWEET. No. 552. This has large, full ears. The quality is unexcep- tionable. It is valuable as an intermediate variety. BLACK MEXICAN. No. 553. Although the ripe grain is black or bluish-black, the corn, when in condition for the table, cooks remarkably white, and is surpassed by none -hi tenderness. 124 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. EXCELSIOR. No. 554. This is the best quality of the second early sorts, and the best for general crop. Stalks medium, bearing from three to six small curved ears, which are filled out to the end with broad, white kernels, that cook exceedingly sweet and tender. AMBER CREAM. No. 555. The stalk is very vigorous. It is very productive, hav- ing large ears and long kernels. It is deep, rich, and sugary, varying in color from light red to white. TRIUMPH. No. 556. The stalks are large, with large ears of fine quality. It is the earliest of the very large sorts and is highly esteemed for canning purposes. EGYPTIAN SWEET. No. 557. A variety noted for its productiveness ; the stalks having from two to four ears each. It is peculiarly adapted for canning, and in consequence of its sweetness and tenderness, its superiority is noticeable. MAMMOTH SWEET. No. 558. This variety produces the largest ears of any sort, a single ear weighing from two to three pounds. The quality is excel- lent, sweet, tender, and delicious. For family use it cannot be excelled. STOWELL'S EVERGREEN SWEET. No. 559. This variety is intermediate in its season, and if planted at the same time as the early kinds, will keep the table supplied until October. It is hardy and productive, very tender and sugary. BURLINGTON EARLY ADAMS. No. 560. An excellent early field variety, and often used for the table, particularly in the South. Ears eight inches long, with twelve or fourteen rows. The kernels are white and rounded, some- what deeper than broad, and indented at the outer end, which is whiter and less transparent than the inner. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 125 EARLY CANADA. No. 561. A very early, yellow variety, much grown in Canada, and good for localities where the seasons are short, or where first planting has failed. LACKAWAXEN. No. 562. This i-i a white flint, eight-rowed variety, with very large and deep grains. There are usually two ears to a stalk. It completes its growth in ninety-five days, and is considered very prolific. EARLY WHITE FLINT. No. 563. This is an excellent, productive variety, with ears of good size, pearly white, and of a beautiful appearance. Much used for making hominy. LARGE RED BLAZED, EIGHT-ROWED. No. 564. An excellent variety for field culture, with large ears, well filled out at the top and end. Its color is yellow, splashed with red at the point. EARLY GOLDEN DENT. No. 565. This is a variety as early as the flint sorts, and is highly recommended for general use. The stalks are of medium size, with very broad leaves. The ears are short and are always filled to the point. The cob is small, and the kernels are long and yellow. It makes a good meal. CHESTER COUNTY MAMMOTH. No. 566. A large, late variety, very popular in Pennsylvania. A sure and hardy cropper, but will not mature well in the extreme Northern States. It is one of the best of the Dent varieties. The stalk is large, bearing one or two very large ears. Kernels narrow, very long, and deep yellow. Cob very small. BLUNT' s PROLIFIC. No. 567. This is one of the most prolific varieties grown. The ears are short and well shaped, averaging three, and frequently running as high as eight to a stalk. The kernel is white, of the general form of the Dent variety, but harder, and makes an extra quality of pure, white meal. It is not early, and will not do well at the extreme North. 126 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. RICE CORN, FOR PARCHING. No. 568. This is a very handsome variety, that is exceedingly prolific, and is used entirely for parching, being superior to all others for this purpose. The ears are short and the kernels are long, pointed and white, resembling rice in appearance. BOILED GREEN CORN. No. 569. Take the husks off of the Corn, break off the stem, remove all the threads and the upper end. Put them to boil in boiling water, lightly salted, and let them boil until tender. Serve in a napkin with butter, separately. NOTE. When the Corn is to be kept for some little time after it is cooked, it is always best to add some boiled milk to the water. CORN, WITH MILK OR CREAM. No. 570. When the Corn is boiled as in No. 569, cut the Corn from the ear, put it into a saucepan, moistened with milk or cream, seasion with salt and pepper, and when the moisture is nearly re- duced, add a piece of butter, tossing it over well until the butter is melted. Then serve it. STEWED GREEN CORN. No. 571. Cut the grains from six ears of Corn, put them into a saucepan with a quart of boiling water and cook for twenty min- utes. Then drain off most of the water and add half a pint of milk. Season with salt and pepper and add an ounce of butter, with which mix a teaspoonful of flour. Stir the Corn until the butter is dis- solved, and let it simmer for fifteen minutes. CORN, WITH BEANS. No. 572. When the Corn is boiled as in No. 569, cut it from the ears and add one-half or quarter of its quantity of string beans, cut in diamond shape, or green flageolet beans, cooked separately. Season with salt and pepper, moisten with a little milk or cream, and when thoroughly warmed add a piece of butter. SUCCOTASH. No. 573. Succotash is made with Corn and small Lima beans, using two parts of Corn to one part of beans. Cut the grain off of '< THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 127 one dozen ears of Corn, and shell the beans. Put them in a sauce- pan with sufficient boiling water to cover them, add a little salt and cook them until they are tender. Then drain off half of the moist- ure and add the same quantity of boiled milk. Knead a spoonful of flour in a piece of butter and add it with the milk. Let it all simmer for twenty minutes, stirring it occasionally, so that the mixture will not adhere to the bottom of the saucepan. Season it with salt and pepper. NJTE. Green flageolet or string beans may be used instead of Lima beans, the string beans should be cut in pieces, one inch long. CORN, WITH TOMATOES. No. 57-4. Cut the grains from one dozen ears of Corn and put them into a saucepan with an equal quantity of peeled tomatoes cut into square pieces. Let them cook until the tomatoes are well cooked and 'the moisture nearly reduced. Season them with salt and pepper, and before serving add a piece of butter. CORN FRITTERS. Fo. 575. Cut the grains from six ears of Corn and put them into a saucepan, moistening them with a little cream, and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Let it all simmer until reduced of its moisture, then set it off of the fire to cool. Make a batter with two spoonfuls of flour, milk and eggs not too thin. Add it to the Corn, mixing it well. Have in a frying pan some hot lard. Then fill a soup-spoon with the Corn batter and drop it into the lard (not too much at a time). Fry them until nicely browned on both sides, drain them on a napkin and serve them with fried parsley to garnish. NOTE. When using a batter like that used in Queen fritters, it will make the fritters more delicious. GREEN CORN CAKES. No. 576. Grate the corn from one dozen ears and put it into a bowl, adding one pint of milk, four ounces of melted butter and six raw eggs. Mix the whole well together. Season to taste and add flour enough to make a light batter. Bake the same as you would buckwheat or Corn cake. CANNED CORN, HOW TO PREPARE. No. 577. Canned corn may be had of all grocers the whole year round. Open the can, put the corn into a saucepan and moisten 128 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. it with milk or cream. Season with salt and pepper, and add a piece of butter, tossing it well over until the butter is melted. Serve hot. NOTE. Any of the preparations given above for green corn, may also be made of canned corn. ROASTED CORN. No. 578. Turn back the husk, pick out the silk threads, re-cover the ear with the husk, and roast it in the hot ashes of a wood fire. Serve it with butter, salt and pepper. An excellent and easy mode of cooking corn for campers. SOUP CREAM OF CORN. No. 579. Cut the grains from one dozen good-sized ears of corn. Put them into a saucepan to cook, with three pints of boiling water, one onion, a faggot of celery, and a leek. Season witli salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. When the corn is cooked add two quarts of cream sauce. Let it simmer for fifteen minutes, then remove the onion and faggot, add a piece of butter, and serve hot. NoTa. The soup, when prepared as above, may be rubbed through a fine sieve, then put back into a saucepan, to keep warm, and before serving add half a pint of cream, into which dilute the yolks of six raw eggs. Put into a soup tureen some fine chopped parsley or chives, and on this pour the soup. CORN CHOWDER. No. 580. Cut one pound of fat pork in small pieces, and put them in a saucepan. When they are nicely fried remove the pieces and put four finely sliced onions in the hot fat. When they are fried, add one gallon of hot water, letting it boil until the onions are thoroughly cooked, when you will rub it through a fine sieve. Then peel one dozen potatoes, slice them fine, and cut the same quantity of green corn from the cob. Put them in a saucepan, in layers, sprinkle each layer lightly with flour, and sen son with salt and pepper. Then pour the above strained broth over the layers, cover the saucepan and set on the fire to boil for thirty minutes. By this time the corn and potatoes should be cooked. Then add one quart of boiled milk, a piece of butter and some crackers, split in half and soaked in cold water. Pat the cover on the saucepan and cook the chowder ten minutes longer. HULLED CORN. No. 581. Hulled corn can be procured from dealers, and is best during the fall and winter. Its attractiveness lays in its snowy white- THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 129 ness. Put the quantity desired into a saucepan, with milk to cover, set it on the fire and season it lightly, with salt only. Let it simmer slowly. Care must be taken not to let it scorch, and when it is cooked add a good sized piece of butter. Serve separately with a pitcher of cream and a bowl of sugar. BOILED COARSE HOMINY. No. 582. Soak the Hominy in cold water over night, and in the morning drain off the water and put the Hominy into a saucepan with fresh water. Let it cook slowly, and occasionally stir it with a wooden spoon. Season it with salt, and when cooked drain it in a colander. Then put it back into the saucepan and season it with salt and white, pepper, and add a good sized piece of butter. Then stir the Hominy with a wooden spoon until the butter is melted, and moisten it with a little hot milk or cream. NOTE. This Hominy may be served as a dinner vegetable, or with cream and sugar. i FINE HOMINY. No. 583. Fine Hominy is mostly used for breakfast and luncheon, and a pot of cream ought always to be served with it. Soak two pounds of Hominy over night, and when it is ready to cook, have in a saucepan six quarts of boiling water, lightly salted, into which put the Hominy slowly, while stirring it with a wooden spoon. Let it boil slowly, occasionally stirring it from the bottom, until it is well cooked, and when cooked it should be similar to mush. If found too thick, add a little more hot water or milk, and serve with butter, cream and sugar. FRIED HOMINY. No. 584. Cook the Hominy as in No. 583, only have it thicker. When it is well cooked put it into square, buttered pans, about two inches thick, and set it aside to get cold. When cold, cut the Hominy in slices and dip them into beaten eggs, diluted with a little milk. Then Hour them and fry them in clarified butter. It is occasionally served with roast wild ducks. HOMINY CROQUETTES, No. 585. Put into a saucepan one pound of hot boiled Hominy. Stir it off the fire until nearly cold, and be very careful to have no lumps. Add a piece of butter, sweeten to taste, and add the yolks of four raw eggs. Have the whole well mixed, then roll them on 9 130 HABDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. the table into croquettes, then dip into beaten eggs and then into- fresh bread crumbs. Shape them nicely and fry in hot lard. BAKED HOMINY. No. 586. Put into a saucepan one pound of hot-boiled Hominy, stirring it until nearly cold. Then add two ounces of butter and the yolks of six raw eggs. When the whole is well mixed, add in slowly half a pint of cold milk and sweeten it to taste. Then beat the whites of four eggs into a stiff froth, and mix the froth gently into the Hominy. Then put it into deep, buttered dishes, and bake gently until nicely browned. CORN MEAL. No. 587. Corn Meal is finely ground corn, it is also called Indian Meal. There are two kinds of Corn Meal, the white and the yellow. The -best variety of white Corn Meal is made from Blunt' s prolific corn, and the best variety of the yellow is made from the Golden Dent variety. Mush is generally made from the latter kind. Corn Meal is also used for making a great variety of bread and cakes, which will be fully described in the Book on Pastry. It is also used for making gruels, soups, etc., for infants and invalids, as it is considered very nutritious and healthful. BOILED MUSH. No. 588. Have in a saucepan four quarts of boiling water. Season it with a spoonful' of salt. Pour into the water slowly three- pounds of the Corn Meal, stirring it slowly with a wooden spoon until it thickens. Then set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly, occasionally stirring it well up until it is well cooked. When cooked, serve it with fresh butter, cream or milk. NOTE. This can be made of yellow or white Meal; the yellow is, however, generally preferred. FRIED MUSH. No. 589. ^-Prepare a Mush as in No. 588, and when it is cooked add a piece of butter and mix it well. Then pour the Mush into a buttered, square pan, about two inches thick. Cover this with a buttered paper, so as to prevent the Mush from having a crust, and when cold cut it into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Then dip the slices into beaten eggs, and after flouring them, fry them in clarified butter. Drain, and serve them on a napkin. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 131 CORN MEAL GEUEL. No. 590. Have in a saucepan two quarts of boiling water, and while the water boils drop into it half a pound of Corn Meal, stirring it with a wooden spoon until it boils steadily. Then set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly for one hour. Season it with a little salt. A little wheat flour may be added, while cooking, and it may also be sweetened with a pinch of sugar and a little nutmeg. This may be served as it is, or may be strained and may be cooked with milk or broth. POULAINTA, OE CORN MEAL WITH CHEESE. No. 591. Poulainta is an Italian preparation, which is nourishing and healthful, and is used by the Italians as we use corn meal mush. Put two quarts of water in a saucepan, and when it boils add salt and a piece of butter. Then put the Corn Meal in slowly, stirring it all the time (so it will not get lumpy), until it commences to thicken. Then set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly, stirring it up from the bottom occasionally. When it is cooked add half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese, and a piece*of butter, mix it well together. Serve in a large dish, with a beef gravy reduced with Tomato sauce and flavored with the essence of dry mushrooms. Serve a tureen of consomme with it. POULAINTA, WITH GAME. No. 592. Prepare the Poulainta as in No. 591, and when it is cooked put it on a large dish, making a hollow space in the center. (Prepare, separately, two dozen reed birds.) Put the birds in a frying-pan with a piece of butter, toss them over the fire, and when nearly cooked add some fine herbs, and then cook them thoroughly. Put the birds in the center of the Poulainta. Put a few spoonfuls of gravy in the pan, let it boil up once, and then pour it over the birds. CRUSTS OF POULAINTA, MILANAISE STYLE. No. 593. Cook one pound of yellow Corn Meal in six pints of water, the same as in No. 591. Keep it stiff, and when cooked add six ounces of butter and four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. Mix it all well and put it in a buttered tin pan, about two inches deep. When it is cold, turn the mush out of the pan and cut it with a round cutter into pieces, about the size of a dollar in circum- ference. With a smaller cutter make an impression on the top of each piece, and then fry them in hot lard. When nicely 132 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. colored drain them. Then take the cover off of each, and hollow out the center, not breaking the crust, and set them in the oven to dry. Put the yolks of five raw eggs in a saucepan, dilute them with half a pint of cream. Add one-quarter of a pound of Gruyere or American cheese, cut in small, thin pieces,' and a pinch of nutmeg. Set it on the fire and stir it with a small whisk until the cheese is melted. Then add one-quarter of a pound of grated cheese, and keep stirring it until melted. Do not let it boil. Fill the crusts with the prepara- tion and serve them hot. NOTE. For other (Poulaintas) Corn Meal Farina see Article Farina. CORN GRIDDLE CAKES COMMON CORN CAKES. No. 594. Put into a bowl one quart of sour or buttermilk, one tablespoonful of soda, a little salt, and add enough flour to make a nice batter. Bake immediately. BATTER CAKES. No. 595. To one quart of milk add enough white Corn Meal, with one handful of wheat flour, to make a light batter. Put with this four spoonfuls of yeast and a little salt, and when it is all well mixed gather it together and cover it with a cloth, so as to let it raise over night. In the morning add one ounce of melted butter and a tea- spoonful of soda, dissolved in hot water. Mix well together and then bake. FLANNEL CAKES. No. 596. To one quart of milk add enough Corn Meal to make a light batter. Put with this four spoonfuls of yeast and a little salt. When it is well mixed cover it with a cloth to raise it over night. In the morning add an ounce of melted butter and four well beaten eggs. Mix them well together and then bake. FLAP JACKS, OR TRIMMED LACE. No. 597. Put into a bowl one pound of Corn flour. Make a hollow in the center and add one ounce of melted butter and two spoonfuls of molasses or brown sugar. With this put one quart of hot milk, mix it together, and cover it with a cloth and let it stand in a warm temperature overnight. In the morning add the yolks of four raw eggs, four ounces of wheat flour and a little salt. Mix them well up, and if the batter should be too thick add a little cold THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 133 milk. Then add in, gently, the whites of the eggs (beaten to a stiff froth), and bake. CORN STARCH. No. 598. Com Starch is the fecula of Corn, and is used for all the purposes for which arrow root is used in cooking. It is also much preferable to arrow root for alimentary purposes. It is used in creams, custards, blanc mange, and a numberless variety of cakes and fritters. It is also delicious for thickening certain soups and sauces, instead of flour, as it keeps them clear and transparent. Though many preparations made with Corn Starch are not as succu- lent as when made in their original styles, especially will this be found to be the case with creams, blanc mange, etc. It often happens that when articles are made of Corn Starch which are too stiff, or which are not well cooked, they retain a starchy taste. It is very nutritious for infants and invalids, when boiled in milk or made into custards. The recipes will be found in their respective places in the Books on Soups, Sauces and Pastries. ARTICLE LXIX. French COUCH GRASS. German t'hiendent. Queckenyrass. No. 599. Couch Grass is a medicinal plant, of which there are several varieties. The root is the portion of the plant used in tisanes (diet drinks) and other decoctions. Culture same as other pot herbs. See Article V. ARTICLE LXX. COS LETTUCE, OR ROMAINE. Romaine. Bind Salat, or Furellen Salat. No. 600. The Romaine, or Cos L >ttuce, of which there are sev- eral varieties, is one of the most crisp and refreshing salads grown. (See article on Lettuce.) Its leaves are long, narrow and of a dark 134 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. green color. It stands the heat well, and should be tied up to blanch a week or ten days before cutting. It is used as a salad the same as ordinary lettuce, and is also boiled and prepared in the same way as spinach. It is braised and stuffed the same as lettuce. ARTICLE LXXI. French COSTMARY, OR ALECOST. German Tannisie Barbodine. Frauenmunze. No. 601. Costmary is a hardy perennial plant with a creeping root, and an erect, branching stem from two to three feet in height. The radical leaves, which are produced on long footstalks, are oval, serrated and of a grayish color. Those of the stalks are smaller than the radical ones but similar in form. The plant has a soft, agreeable odor, and is sometimes used as a pot herb for flavoring soups. The leaves are used in salads and also for flavoring ale or beer. CULTURE. No. 602. Costmary may be cultivated in almost any soil. It is generally propagated by dividing the roots, which increase rapidly. It should be planted in spring or autumn. Set them two feet apart in each direction. ARTICLE LXXI I. CRANBERRY. Canneberge. Moosbeere. No. 603. The Cranberry is a trailing shrub, which grows wild in swampy meadows and on the borders of inland lakes. It can be improved, however, by planting in any moist soil that is thoroughly manured with decayed manure. When cultivated in this way the berries will be larger and of better flavor, and the yield will be more abundant. The berries are round, of a reddish color, and have an aciduous flavor. There are several varieties. The bell- shaped is the largest, having a dark-red color. The cherry variety THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 135 comes both large and small, the large kind being preferred. The color is dark-red, and it is considered next in excellence to the bell-shaped. The oval or egg-shaped Cranberry comes large and small also. It is a good variety, but not as profitable as the others. CULTURE. No. 604. Procure the plants with their natural earth and plant them earlj- in spring, four feet apart, in moist sandy soil, well manured. CRANBERRY SAUCE. No. 605. Pick one pound of Cranberries and wash them in cold water. Put them in a copper basin with a glassful of water and cook them over a brisk fire. Sweeten with sugar stirred in with a wooden spoon until the} r are like a marmalade. Then strain them through a fine sieve and put them in an earthen jar. The sauce is used with turkey and for tarts and pies. If Cranberries are cooked in tin basins they will not keep their rich red color. LXXITI. French CRESS, OR PEPPER GRASS. German Cress'm. Pillenfarn. No. 606. Cress, or Pepper Grass, is a pungent salad, and is mostly used in mixing with other salads. Mixed with fine herbs it has a piquant, agreeable taste, and it should always be used when young and freshly plucked. It gives a most agree vble taste to all green salads. CULTURE. No. 607. The seed should be sown in drills about eighteen inches apart on very rich ground, and the plants Avell cultivated. Keep oft' insects by dusting with Pyrethruni powder. It may be planted very early. Continue sowing every week, as it matures very rapidly and runs to seed. The fine curled Cress is very superior, and will bear cutting sev- eral times. The Perennial American resembles the water Cress, and may be cut several times. The Garden Broad Leaved has a mild flavor and is generally used in soups. 136 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICLE French GARDEN CRESS. German Cressun alenois des jardiiis. Kresse. No. 608. This is one of the best plants in cultivation for herbs, and can be easily raised in pots or boxes. It runs quickly into seed and withers as soon as plucked so for this reason it is rarely found in the markets. It is an excellent ingredient for salads, hav- ing a mild, piquant taste. The leaves should never be chopped, but are plucked or served in bunches. The leaves when laid between buttered sandwiches and eaten with eggs, make a relish highly esteemed by epicures. ARTICLE LXXV. WATER CRESS. Cresson de Fontaine. Brwmen- Kresse. No. 609. The Water Cress is a hardy, perennial, aquatic plant, growing abundantly along the margins of running streams, ditches and ponds. It is very easily introduced by planting it along the margins of ponds and streams where it does not already grow, and will increase both by the spreading of the roots and seeding. It has a particularly pleasant, pungent taste, and is agreeable to nearly every one. It is also one of the most delicious small salads. CULTURE. ' No. 610. The seeds should be sown and lightly covered in grav- elly, murky lands, along the border of small, rapid streams. They will need no subsequent culture, as in favorable conditions they increase very rapidly by self-sowing of seed and extension of roots. Good beds should be fenced in to keep animals from trampling on them, and should also be kept clear of wild herbs. ITS USE. No. 611. It is eaten as a morning salad, and should only be used when fresh. It should be washed well in cold water and then drained. (Care must be taken not to bruise or press it.) Then THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 137 add a little vinegar, salt and pepper. It is also mixed with other green salads, and is largely used for garnishing roast chickens, steaks, etc. It can also be cooked and prepared the same as spinach. ARTICLE: LXXVI. French CUCUMBER. German Cuncombie, Gurke. No. 612. There are many varieties of Cucumbers. They are eaten raw and are also cooked in various ways. When used in salads they should be sliced very fine and sprinkled with salt to drain them of the water, otherwise they are apt to cause indigestion. It is a vegetable that can be grown to perfection by any one who controls a few square yards of soil which is fully exposed to the sun the fruit being so very much better when gathered from the vine than when procured in the market. Some varieties are used for cooking purposes and some for pickling, and are then called pickles, or gherkins. CULTURE. No. 613. The plants are tender, and planting should be delayed until settled warm weather or ample facilities are provided to pro- tect them from frost and during cold storms. Form low, flat hills, six feet apart each way, of rich soil, by mixing in a quantity of thoroughly decomposed manure, stirring the soil to a depth of sixteen inches or more. Scatter one seed every inch along the rows, and cover them one inch deep, pressing the soil over them. As soon as the plants are up they will be liable to attack by the striped cucumber beetle. These may be kept off by frequent dusting with air-slacked lime. Care should be taken not to use too much lime, for if too strong it will kill the vines. ' When the plants are well established, thin to three plants to each hill. In gathering, pick all the fruit before it begins to ripen, as the vines will cease setting fruit as soon as any seed commences to mature. In gathering for pickles cut the stem instead of pulling the fruit off, and be careful not to mar the fruit in any way, for if the skin is broken the pickles will not keep. EARLY WHITE SPINE. No. 614. A favorite market variety, of medium size, with deep green flesh, crisp and of fine flavor. 13S HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. EXTRA LAEGE WHITE SPINE. No. 615. This is a larger variety of dark-green color, largely used for forcing. BOSTON PICKLING. No. 616. A variety largely used, very productive, and of superior quality. EARLY FEAME. No. 617. An old and popular variety of medium size, straight and handsome, and excellent for pickling when young. EARLY CLUSTEE. No. 618. A much esteemed early sort, growing in clusters and extremely productive. GEEEN PEOLIFIC. No. 619. This is one of the best for pickling. Its characteristics are its very uniform growth (hardly ever yielding Cucumbers too large for pickling) and its immense productiveness. EAELY RUSSIAN. No. 620. This is the earliest variety of fruit produced, and is small, hardy and productive. LONG GEEEN. \ T o. 621. A fine long fruit of excellent quality, of a dark-green color, firm and crisp. Talby's Hybrid, the Long Green Turkey, and the Short Green, are considered excellent varieties for family use. ENGLISH FEAME OE FORCING VAEIETIES. No. 622. These are almost exclusively raised for self-gratification, and are grown in hot-houses. Sow them in small pots in January, February or March, in a hot-bed or hot-house, and when grown to three leaves plant them out in previously prepared hills of loose rich soil in the center of he sash. Keep a temperature of sixty- five degrees at night, to seventy or eighty degrees with sun heat. When grown under glass artificial impregnation of the flowers is necessary, by the usual method of using a camel's-hair pencil, or if THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 139 > not a hive of bees should be kept, if Cucumbers are grown on a large scale in green-houses. When grown in the open air there is no need of this, as the insects and winds effect impregnation. The following selections include some of the leading English varieties: Berkshire Champion, Duke of Edinburgh, Blue Gown, Cuthill's Black Spine, Carter's Champion, Invincible, Improved Lion House, Master's Prolific, Dale's Conqueror, Long Green, Telegraph, Prince Albert, Marquis of Lome, Monroe's Rabley, Lord Kenyon's Favorite, Walker's Runiblers. CUCUMBERS, WITH CREAM SAUCE. No. 623. Pare half a dozen Cucumbers, slice them in half and scoop out the seeds. Then cut them in scallops, all the same size, and put them into a bowl with cold water, a little salt and some vinegar. Half an hour after this drain off the water and dry them on a napkin. Then put them into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter, and season them with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar. Cover the saucepan and set it on a moderate fire. Let them cook slowly until they are tender, then drain off the butter and add four spoonfuls of Cream sauce. Toss the whole together gently, and dish them up with a little tine chopped parsley over them. CUCUMBERS, POULETTE. No. 624. Prepare the Cucumbers the same way as in No. 623, but instead of Cream sauce add Allemande sauce. Before serving, add the juice of half a lemon. Dish them up nicely, and have pieces of bread cut into fancy shapes fried, then glaze them to garnish around the dish. CUCUMBERS, DUCHESSE. No. 625. Pare half a dozen Cucumbers, then cut them into quarters and scoop out the seed. Parboil them for two minutes in water lightly salted, to which add a little vinegar. Then immerse them in cold water and dry them on a towel, after which, put them in a flat saucepan with a little clarified butter. Season them with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar, and put them on a brisk fire and fry them lightly on both sides (not letting the butter get browned). Then take them out with a sna ill skimmer, without breaking them, and dish them up. Prepare separately a reduced 140 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. Supreme sauce, in which add two spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, and pour it over the cucumbers. Then serve. CUCUMBERS, SPANISH STYLE. No. 626. Pare half a dozen Cucumbers. Slice them in halves and scoop out the seeds. Then cut the Cucumbers in scollops and parboil them for two minutes. Then immerse them in cold water. Dry them on a napkin and put them into a buttered flat saucepan, and season them with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Then put on the lid and let them simmer until the moisture is reduced: after which add two spoonfuls of veal gravy and one of Espagnole sauce. Let them cook until tender, then dish them up, straining the gravy through a fine sieve into another saucepan. Reduce it to its proper consistency. Then take it off of the fire, and add a piece of butter and some fine chopped parsley, while stirring it until the butter is melted. Then pour it over the Cucumbers, and serve. STUFFED CUCUMBERS, SPANISH STYLE. No. 627. Pare one dozen Cucumbers, slice them in halves, scoop out the seeds, and parboil the Cucumbers for two minutes. Immerse them in cold water and drain them on a napkin. Stuff them with a forced meat, made of the breasts of chickens, into which add some cooked fine herbs. Arrange the Cucumbers in neat order in a deep, flat saucepan, lined with thin slices of fat pork. Then moisten them with a clear Espagnole sauce or veal gravy, and cover each Cucum- ber with a thin slice of fat pork. Put the lid on the saucepan and set it into the oven to cook, basting them occasionally. When they are nicely glazed, dish them up and serve them with a reduced Madeira wine sauce. STUFFED CUCUMBERS, ITALIAN STYLE. No. 628. Prepare one dozen Cucumbers as in No. 627. Stuff them with a forced meat of roast chicken, into which add some fine chopped fresh nmshrooms, and the same quantity of boiled smoked beef tongue. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over each one, and arrange them in a buttered baking pan with a few drops of olive oil on each one. Then bake them in a moderate oven, and when they are nicely browned dish them up with a white or brown Italian sauce. STUFFED CUCUMBERS, TURKISH STYLE. No. 629. Prepare one dozen Cucumbers as in No. 627. Chop fine half a pound of cold, braized lamb, to which add a quarter of a THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 141 pound of fine chopped beef suet, some cooked fine herbs, and three spoonfuls of rice, cooked in broth. Season with salt, uutnieg, and a pinch of red pepper. Mix it well tog-ether over the fire, while adding the yolks of three raw eggs. Stuff the Cucumbers with this stuffing and sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over them. Then arrange them in a buttered baking pan, with a piece of butter over each one, and bake the;n in a moderate oven until nicely browned. Then dish them up with a reduced, plain Tomato sauce. SCOLLOPED CUCUMBERS, FOE GARNITURE. No. 630. Pare one dozen Cucumbers, slice them in half and cut out the seeds. Then parboil them for two minutes, immerse them in cold water, and dry them on a napkin. Put into a flat saucepan two spoonfuls of clarified butter, add the Cucumbers, and season them with salt,. pepper, and a pinch of sugar. Cover the saucepan and let them simmer until cooked, without letting them get browned. Then drain off the butter and add the juice of one lemon, with some fine chopped parsley. Use -as needed, as soon as they are cooked. SCOLLOPED CUCUMBERS, FOR GARNITURE WITH SAUCE. No. 631. Prepare the Cucumbers in the same way as in No. 630, and fry them lightly in clarified butter, then drain off the butter and add two spoonfuls of white broth, and reduce it on a brisk fire to a glaze. Then add, as may be needed, a few spoonfuls of Cream, Allemande, or Espagnole sauce. NOTE. For large garnitures the stuffed Cucumbers are used, alternated with other vegetables. PUREE OF CUCUMBER. No. 632. Prepare one dozen Cucumbers in the same manner as in No. 630. Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and season with salt, pepper, a pinch of sugar, a faggot of parsley garnished with a sprig of thyme, a few cloves, and a slice of raw, lean ham. Then put on the lid and let them simmer to reduce the moisture, after which add four spoonfuls of Cream or Allemande sauce, and let it cook for fifteen minutes. Then take out the faggot and rub the Cucumbers through a fine sieve. Return the puree into a flat saucepan, and add a glass of cream to it. Reduce this to its proper consistency while stirring it with a wooden spoon. Before serving, add a piece of butter. SOUP CREAM OF CUCUMBER, QUEEN STYLE. No. 633. Pare one and a half dozen medium sized fresh Cucum- bers, slice them in half and take out the seeds. Then cut them in 142 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. scollops and parboil them for two minutes, after which drain them. Then put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter and set them on a brisk fire. When the moisture is reduced add one quart of white broth to them, with a faggot of parsley well garnished. Season them with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a little fine sugar. When they are cooked, add two quarts of Cream sauce, and let them cook slowly for ten minutes. Then take out the faggot and rub the soup through a fine sieve; then return it to the saucepan and keep it warm in a hot water bath. Before serving add half a pound of butter in small pieces, and stir briskly with a whisk until the butter is melted; then^add some fine chopped chives. PUREE OF CUCUMBERS, PATTI STYLE. No. 634. Prepare one and a half dozen Cucumbers as in No. 633, and when they are parboiled drain them dry. Then put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar. Toss them over a brisk fire for a few minutes, then add a pint of chicken broth. Reduce it and then add one gallon of thickened chicken or veal broth and let it cook slowly for half an hour. Skim it well and then rub the soup through a fine sieve. Return the puree to the saucepan and keep it warm on the fire. Before serving add a piece of butter and a pint of cream, into which dilute the yolks of six raw eggs. Mix the whole well together (not letting it boil). Serve with a garniture of small scol- loped Cucumbers, nicely glazed. CUCUMBERS, WITH PUREE OF CHICKENS. No. 635. Prepare the Cucumbers as in No. 634, and when they have been tossed over the fire, add to them one quart of light Cream sauce and let them cook slowly until tender. Season them highly and add half their quantity of a puree of chicken diluted with chicken broth, enough to give it its proper consistency. Then rub it through a fine sieve, return it to the saucepan and keep it warm in a hot water bath. When ready to serve add a piece of butter, stirring it well until the butter is melted. Serve with small balls made with a forced meat of chicken previously poached in broth. CUCUMBERS FOR RELISH. No. 636. Pare the Cucumbers and cut them in thin slices. Serve them in relish dishes with a piece of ice on top of them to keep them cool. Peeled raw tomatoes, thinly sliced, may be used with them. NOTE. In using Cucumbers as a plain relish only the young and freshest kinds should be used. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 143 CUCUMBER SALAD, FRENCH STYLE. No. 637. Pare one dozen Cucumbers (when small, slice them;, when large, split them in half ) scoop out the seed and slice them fine. Then put them into an earthen bowl. Sprinkle them with salt and mix them well together. Set them in a cool place for one hour; after which drain off the water, pressing the Cucumbers gently. Season with pepper, oil, vinegar, and salt if needed, and add a little fine chopped parsley. Mix well together, and serve in a salad bowl. CUCUMBER SALAD, SPANISH STYLE. No. 638. Prepare the Cucumbers the same as in No. 637, and when dressing them, add some sliced green bell peppers and some sliced peeled tomatoes. CUCUMBER SALAD, GERMAN STYLE. No. 639. After the Cucumbers are pared, cut arid sliced as in No. 637, add, when ready to serve, some sliced green onions, and season them with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and add a little fine chopped parsley, and mix the whole well together. NOTE. A light Mayonnaise dressing may be added if desired. PRESERVED CUCUMBERS. No. 640. Pare two dozen Cucumbers, cutting each one into four or five pieces, and trim so as to have them of uniform size. Take out the seed, and as you prepare them, put them into a bowl of cold water, lightly salted and acidulated. Then put on the fire a copper basin with one gallon of water. Into this put the Cucum- bers when the water is boiling, and when they are half-cooked take the basin off of the fire, and half an hour later take out the Cucum- bers. Drain them on a cloth. Then place them in quart cans, into- which add cold boiled water lightly salted, so as to cover them. Solder on the covers and boil the cans in a hot water bath for one hour. PICKLED CUCUMBERS (PICKLES OR GHERKINS). No. 641. Select small and nicely shaped Cucumbers without any specks. Put them into a barrel of the size you intend filling. Put a layer of salt on each layer of Cucumbers, and add cold water enough to cover them. Then cover them with a round board, on 144 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. top of which place some heavy weight to press the Cucumbers clown. Keep them in a cool place for six weeks, and occasionally stir them from the bottom. When ready to put them up, drain off the brine and throw away any of the Cucumbers that may have become softened. Put the good Cucumbers into fresh cold water over night. Drain the quantity you need and put them into a copper basin, lined with cabbage leaves. Pour over them, so as to cover, wine or cider vinegar. Then cover with cabbage leaves, and set the basin on the fire to boil. After which, set them on the side of the fire and let them boil slowly, until the Cucumbers become firm. After this, take them off of the fire, and when they are cold put them into jars or other vessels, with a sprig of tarragon in each jar; (These Cucum- bers may be put up with other pickled vegetables, such as cauli- flower, beans, peppers and onions, each prepared separately, and arranged in jars, etc.) Pour vinegar over them and cork them up well. PICKLED CUCUMBERS. No. 642. Pare half a dozen Cucumbers, cut them in half and scoop out the seeds. Then cut them in slices half an inch thick and trim so as to have them all equal in size. Put them into an earthen bowl. Sprinkle them with a quarter of a pound of salt, and let them stand for ten hours, turning them over occasionally. Then draw off the water and put them in jars with an ounce of pepper corn and four bay leaves. Cover them with vinegar. Cork them tightly and set them in a cool place. PICKLED CUCUMBERS MIXED PICKLES. No. 643. Put into a small barrel two pounds of small, white onions, two pounds of small, round green peppers, and two hundred small Cucumbers. Make a strong brine, and pour it, boiling hot, over the Cucumbers. Two days after this, drain them and pour a new, cold brine over them. On the following day drain off this brine and boil it, adding a little salt to it, skim the brine well and pour it over the pickles. Two days after drain the pickles and put them into fresh water, rinsing them well. Then put them in jars and cover them with boiled wine or cider vinegar, adding a small piece of alum to the vinegar. NOTE. Cucumbers may be pickled in spiced vinegar in the same way as the above, only in bailing the vinegar it is necessary to put into a cloth bag one ounce of cloves and one of allspice, and to boil this with the vinegar. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 145 ARTICLE LXXVIL French CUCKOO-FLOWER CRESS. German Cresson Elegant des pres. Kuckuksblume. No. 644. This is a hardy, perennial plant, that is grown in the Northern and Southern States. The stem is about fifteen inches high, being erect and smooth. The leaves are deeply divided and have a warm, pungent taste, such as is always noticeable in the Cress family. They are used when youn'g as a salad, the same as other cresses. Medicinally it has the reputation of being highly anti-scorbutic, and it also aids digestion. There are four varieties : the white flowering, the purple flowering, the double white flower- ing, and the double purple flowering. The last two varieties are propagated by a division of the roots. The single varieties are propagated from seed, which is sown in April, in shallow drills, one foot apart. The roots may be divided in spring or autumn. ARTICLE; LXXVIII. CUMIN. Gamin. KummeL No. 645. Cumin, though a native of Egypt, may be successfully grown in the Southern or Middle States. The plant is cultivated for its seed, which is carminative and is used the same as caraway and coriander, and for flavoring a liqueur called Kummel. It is a tender, annual plant. Its seeds are long and furrowed, and of a pale brownish color. It requires a light, warm, loamy soil. Sow in May in drills fourteen inches apart and half an inch deep. When the plants are well up trim them to three inches apart in the lines. ARTICLE LXXIX. CURRY. Kari. Kari. No. 646. Curry is a preparation made of spices that come from East India. It comes both as a powder and a paste. There are 10 146 HAEDEK'S AMERICAN COOKERY. many spurious imitations made here that are composed of ground red and black pepper, curcuma, cloves, nutmeg and ginger, and which are far inferior in quality to the genuine article; in fact, they hardly resemble it. Preparations in which Curry is a component part should always be accompanied by a dish of rice. A.RTICLB French DANDELION. Gcrmau Pisse en lit. Loicenzahn. No. 647. Those who only know the Dandelion as the persistent weed in pastures and lawns (which is gathered for salads when young and green), know no more of its real value than one who has only seen the poisonous wild parsnip or carrot knows of the value of those vegetables. The improved variety makes it one of the ear- liest and best greens in cultivation. It is a hardy perennial plant, resembling the endive, and affords one of the best and most health- ful of spring salads. CULTURE. No. 648. When cultivated the ^eeds should be sown in May or June, in drills half an inch deep and twelve inches apart. The plants will be ready for use the following spring. It is also exten- sively grown for its roots. For this purpose it is sown in Septem- ber and cultivated well during the fall, and in the following season the roots will be fit to dig up in October. The roots, after being dried, constitute an article of commercial importance, being exten- sively employed as a substitute for, or mixed with coffee. LARGE LEAVED DANDELION (CULTIVATED). No. 649. When cultivated its leaves are fully double the size of the common Dandelion. It is a great improvement over the com- mon variety, and when blanched it can be prepared in every way, the same as the endive. DANDELION SALAD. No. 650. Prepare the same as endive salad, No. 703. It is a healthful breakfast salad. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 147 DANDELION BROTH. No. 651. Dandelion boiled in water is a refreshing diet drink svlien cold. ARTICLE LXXXI French DILL. German Aneth. Dill. No. 652. Dill is a hardy biennial plant, and is cultivated for its seeds, which have an aromatic odor and a warm pungent taste. It is a corrective for flatulence and colic in infants, and is added to pickled cucumbers to heighten their flavor. The leaves are some- times used to flavor soups and sauces, and the seeds for flavoring pickles. CULTURE. No. 653. Sow early in spring and keep clear of weeds. ARTICLE: LXXXII. DIET DRINKS (Tisanes). Tisane. Difit Getriinke. No. 654. It is the duty of every chief cook to know how to com- pound and prepare diet drinks, juleps and apozems. Diet drinks, or tisanes, are made for sick persons, to be taken as a refreshment. They should be prepared in such a manner that the taste will be agreeable to the patient. In making diet drinks it is best to use earthen pots. They should not be allowed to draw more than half an hour or they will get too strong and bitter. When flowers, leaves or herbs are used, diet drinks are made by infusion; when roots are used, they are boiled. The following are the principal plants, roots, flowers, herbs and seeds from which diet drinks are made: 148 HARDER S AMERICAN COOKERY. Basil, Sweet, Barley (heads or crowns), Beets (white), Borage , Brier leaves, *Catechu, Centaury, Chaniomile, Chervil, Colt's-foot (flowers), ColtVfoot (roots) , *Comfrey (roots), Coriander (seeds), Corn Poppy, *Corsican Sea Moss, ^"Crow's-foot, Elder Tree (flower buds), Endive, Fennel, Sweet, *Gentian Boot, Hollyhock, Horseradish, ^Iceland Moss, Juniper Berries, *8ee description of these in the glossary. Lettuce, ^Lichen, Lime Tree or Linden Tree, Mallow (flowers), Malt, Marsh Mallow, *Marsh Trefoil, Marjoram, Sweet, Mint, Mullen, Oak (common wall German- der), ^Orange (blossoms), *Orange (leaves), Parsley (roots), ^Pomegranate (roots.) Rosemary, Sage, Sorrel, Thyme, Venus hair, ^Violet (flowers), Water Cress, * White Archangel Nettle. DECOCTION OF MALT. No. 655. Malt is barley or other grain steeped in water till it germinates, and then dried in a kiln, thus evolving the saccharine principle. The decoction of malt makes an emollient diet drink of agreeable taste, which is nourishing to a small degree. HERB JUICE. No. 656. Herb juice is made by combining a variety of herbs and vegetables, such as the endive, water cress, lettuce, chervil, sorrel and white beet. Use equal parts of the herbs or vegetables desired and pound them in a mortar into a fine, homogeneous paste. Then press out or extract the juice. Mix four or five ounces of it in a cup of veal or chicken broth and drink it before breakfast. A spoonful of lime syrup may be added to it. This is a drink that will cleanse the system well. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE". 149 ICELAND MOSS, OR LICHEN DIET DRINK. No. 657. Put one ounce of Iceland Moss or Lichen into one pound of water, to macerate for twelve hours. Then drain off the water and put the Moss to boil in three pounds of fresh water, letting it boil until one-third of the quantity of water is reduced. Then strain it through a napkin and add one ounce of marsh mallow syrup. This is an emollient drink, and is frequently used for complaints relative to the chest or breast, and for affections of the larynx. It would be advisable to dilute this with one-third of its quantity of cow's milk, if the stomach can stand it. COLT'S-FOOT DIET DRINK. No. 658. Put half an ounce of Colt's-foot roots in a pint of water, and let it boil a few minutes. Then take it from the fire and add two pinches of Colt's-foot flower. It should be taken at regular inter- vals. It may be mixed with wine instead of water, if taken at dinner. AN ANTI-BILIOUS DIET DRINK. No. 659. Take half a handful of barley heads having long beards or arms, and put them in a pint of water. Let it boil awhile and then add two rennet apples, peeled and cut in quarters. Then strain it through a napkin and add four ounces of vinegar syrup and the juice of two lemons. It is then ready for use. AN EMOLLIENT DIET DRINK. No. 660. Put a handful of mallow flowers and two ounces of Canadian venus-hair in a pint of boiling water and let it steep. Then strain it and add one ounce of ground gum arabic and two ounces of clarified honey. It is then ready for use. A PECTORAL DIET DRINK. No. 661. Take two ounces of dates, two ounces of jujube and two ounces of dried currants. Put them in a pint of water to boil. When boiled strain them through a towel and add one ounce of gum or marsh mallow syrup. It is then ready for use. Another pectoral diet drink can be made as follows : Make a de- coction of rennet apples, after which add to it equal proportions of violet flowers, colt's-foot, mallow and mullen. Sweeten it with honey and strain it through a fine hair sieve. It is then ready for use. 150 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. APOZEMS. No. 662. Apozems are concentrated tisanes with medicinal and pharrnaceutic preparation, and should be made by infusion or de- coction. The- ingredients should be macerated or ground to a powder, as the case may be. Apozems used for cleansing the sys- tem have sarsaparilla or burdock as a basis. The stiptic, diuretic, purgative and the febrifuge Apozcms should be made only from a physician's prescription, as should any others that are intended for internal use. They can be made with convenience to use as lotions, gargles or injections. The method of cooking them and the mode of application must be thoroughly understood. NOTE. Use the apothecaries' weight in weighing mixtures. A DIURETIC OR APERIENT APOZEM. No. 663. Take four drams of wild horseradish, and two drams of crushed juniper berries. Put them in a pot. Pour twelve ounces of boiling water over them and cover the pot tight. In a few minutes strain it through a piece of flannel and let it stand. When it is cold add a pint of white wine, in which you have dissolved two ounces of vinegar, honey and syrup of squills mixed in equal quantities. This Apozem is used in cases of gravel or when the flow of urine is embarrassed. Take three wine glasses full in the morning before breakfast. A VERMIFUGE APOZEM. No. 664. Take one ounce of Corsican sea moss and one ounce of Artemesia syrup and put them in eight ounces of boiling water to steep. This Apozem is appropriate for children having worms. Grown persons who have the solitary worm use a decoction of pom- egranate roots, which is an efficient remedy. AN ANTI-SCORBUTIC APOZEM. $ No. 665. Take a handful of menyanthes leaves, one of sorrel leaves and one of horseradish roots. Put them in four pounds of water and boil it until the quantity of water is reduced one-half. This is an excellent remedy in cases of scurvy. AN ASTRINGENT APOZEM. No. 666. Take two drams of catechu and two drams of comfrey roots. Boil them in one quart of water, and when reduced to one- THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 151 quarter of its volume, strain it and add two ounces of quince syrup. Take half a cupful at a time. A STOMACHIC APOZEM. No. 667. Take one ounce of gentian root, cut in small pieces and boil it in a pint of water. Then add two ounces of the end butts of oak (small germander) and two ounces of the following mixture, equally proportioned : Centaury, fumitory, marsh trefoil, and hop seed. Let it all steep for two hours, and then drain it through a towel without pressing it. Take half a glassful every hour. A PURGATIVE APOZEM. No. 668. Take two ounces of senna leaves, one ounce of Glauber's salt, one dram of anise seed, one dram of coriander seed, one ounce of chervil leaves, and one ounce of burnet leaves. Add to this mixture one sliced lemon. Put it all in an earthen bowl, with two pounds of cold water, and let it macerate for twenty-four hours, stirring it occasionally. Str.dn it through a towel with light pressure, and then filter it. This is an agreeable and efficient purgative. A GERMAN APOZEM, OR WHITE DECOCTION. No. 669. Pound in a mortar two ounces of bread crumbs and two drams of calcine crow's-foot until thoroughly pulverized. Boil one ounce of white cube sugar in a quart of water for twenty-five minutes, and then add to it one ounce of orange flower water and the pulverized bread crumbs and crows-foot. Strain it all through a fine sieve, with pressure. Take half a glassful every other hour. Shake the mixture well before taking. This is an excellent correc- tive of diarrhoea. LXXXIII. Trench EGG PLANT. German Aubergine. Eierpflanze. No. 670. The Egg Plant is a tender, annual plant, that origin- ated in South America. When well grown and properly cooked, it is a delicious table vegetable. Its fruit resembles a large egg in shape. There are two varieties, the white and the violet. 152 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY, CULTURE. No. 671. The seed germinates slowly and should be started in strong heat, for in this, as in all tropical plants, it is of import- ance to secure a rapid and continuous growth from the first, the plants never recovering from a check received when young. When the plants have formed two rough leaves, transplant them to four inches apart, keep the bed closed and very warm, shaded from the direct rays of the sun, and giving them an abundance of water until the ground is warm and all danger, not only from frost but from cold nights, is past. Then harden off the plants by gradual exposure to the sun and air, and decrease the supply of water. Then care- fully transplant them into warm, rich soil, setting the plants two and one-half feet apart. If needed shade the young plants and protect them from the potatoe bug, which is very fond of them, and if not prevented will soon destroy the young plants. EARLY LONG PURPLE. No. 672. This is one of the earliest and most productive varie- ties. The fruit is long and of a dark, rich, purple color, of fine quality. BLACK PEKIN. No. 673. Nearly as early as the above, and as large as the New York purple. It is very prolific and desirable for market. The fruit is nearly round, the skin is smooth, black and glossy; and the flesh is white, fine grained and delicate. LARGE NEW YORK PURPLE. No. 674. This is large and round, and of excellent quality, and is highly esteemed in the Eastern market. IMPROVED LARGE PURPLE. No. 675. This is the best in cultivation, being early, a sure crop, and of fine quality. The plants are large and vigorous, with light green leaves. The fruit is very large and oval-shaped, a deep purple in color, with an occasional dash of green about the stem. The flesh is white, tender and superior in quality. GUADALOUPE STRIPED. No. 676. The fruit is nearly oval in shape, and the skin white and variegated with purple, being very ornamental. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 153 ORNAMENTAL VARIETIES. No. 677. There are three kinds which are not eatable, but are very ornamental in gardens namely, the scarlet, the tomato-shaped and the white-fruited. The fruit of the scarlet is about the size of a hen's egg, of a whitish color, which changes to yellow and after- wards to a brilliant scarlet. The tomato-shaped is of a bright red color. The white-fruited is egg-shaped and very ornamental. EGG PLANT, FEIED (FRENCH STYLE). No. 678. Peel and slice two Egg Plants. Sprinkle fine salt over each slice, and then replace them in shape ao;ain. Press them gently and set them aside for half an hour. Then drain off the water, dry them, dip them in beaten eggs, then in flour, and fry them in hot lard. Season with salt and serve them on a napkin. EGG PLANT, BREADED AND FRIED (AMERICAN STYLE). No. 679. Prepare the Egg Plants as in No. 678. Season them with salt and pepper, dip them in beaten eggs, and then in raspings of bread. Fry them in hot lard, drain them, and serve them on a napkin. EGG PLANT, LYONNAISE. No. 680. Peel four Egg Plants and cut them in quarters. Par- boil them for fifteen minutes in water lightly salted, drain them and trim and cut them in scollops. Put them in a flat saucepan with a piece of butter, season with salt and pepper, and fry them to a nice, bright color. Before serving add a little finely chopped parsley. EGG PLANT WITH CHEESE, NEAPOLITAN STYLE. No. 681. Peel and slice three Egg Plants, sprinkle a little salt between each slice, and replace them in shape again. After half an hour press them dry, then fry them in olive oil and drain them on a napkin. Season them with salt and pepper and arrange them in a but- tered baking dish, with a little grated Parmesan cheese between each slice. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs and grated cheese, over the top, moisten them with a few drops of olive oil, wipe the bor- ders of the dish, and bake them in a moderate oven. EGG PLANT, WITH CREAM AND CHEESE. No. 682. Prepare the Egg Plant as in No. 680. Fry them in clarified butter and place them in a baking dish, with a reduced cream 154 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. . sauce, in which add four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over the top, and a piece of butter divided into small pieces, and bake in an oven. PUREE OF EGG PLANT. No. 683. Cut three Egg Plants into halves and fry them in hot lard. Then drain them on a napkin with the cut side on the bottom. When cold peel them, cut them into small pieces, put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and let them simmer until the moisture is reduced. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Add four spoonfuls of Allemande or Cream sauce, and when well mixed rub it through a fine sieve. Before serving add a piece of butter. STUFFED EGG PLANT, AMERICAN STYLE. No. 684. Cut four Egg Plants into halves lengthwise, and with a knife cut around the inner part, close to the skin, without detach- ing it. Fry them in hot lard and drain them on a linen towel, the side which is cut being downward. Then scoop out the middle part so as to leave only the shell. When they are all prepared chop finely that which you scoop out of the Egg Plant. Put in a sauce- pan two fine chopped onions with a piece of butter. Fry them lightly and add the chopped Egg Plant with four ounces of fine chopped mushrooms. Reduce the moisture, then add four spoon- fuls of Espagnole sauce, one handful of fresh bread crumbs and a little fine chopped parsley. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stir them well together, adding in slowly the yolks of five raw eggs. "When well mixed fill the shell of the Egg Plant, arrange them together in a buttered pan, sprinkle bread crumbs over them, put a piece of butter in each and bake them in a slow oven. Serve with a brown Italian sauce. STUFFED EGG PLANT, BRAZILIAN STYLE. No. 685. Prepare the Egg Plant the same as No. 683. Add to the stuffing four soup-spoonfuls of fine chopped capers, with two teaspoonfnls of anchovie paste. Serve with a reduced Espagnole sauce. STUFFED EGG PLANT, TURKISH STYLE. No. 686. Prepare the Egg Plant as in No. 683. Cook in white broth a quarter of a pound of rice. When well cooked and dry, chop two onions fine and put them in a saucepan with three spoonfuls of olive oil. Fry them lightly, and then THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 155 add one clove of fine chopped garlic, the chopped Egg Plant, and the same quantity of roast mutton cut into small pieces. Let it simmer slowly and then add the rice. Season it with salt and a pinch of red pepper, and add four spoonfuls of Tomato sauce and some fine chopped parsley. Mix all well together and set it aside to get cold. Then stuff the Egg Plant with this preparation and sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over each. Arrange them in a buttered pan, with a few drops of olive oil over each, bake them in a moderate oven, and serve with a reduced Tomato sauce. STUFFED EGG PLANT, PARISIAN STYLE. No. 687. Prepare three Egg Plants as in No. 683. Stuff them with the following preparation: chop three white onions fine, put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and fry them lightly. Add the Egg Plant, which you cut into small, square pieces, also the breast of two roast chickens, same quantity of roast pork, and a quarter of a pound of marrow. Let it simmer for twenty minutes, and then add one handful of fresh bread crumbs. Season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and then add the yolks of four raw eggs. Mix the whole well together, adding some fine chopped parsley. Having filled the Egg Plants with the stuffing, sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over them, with a piece of butter on each. Bake them in an oven and serve with a reduced Madeira wine sauce. EGG PLANTS, FOE GARNITURE. No. 688. Use small Egg Plants, and stuff them as in Nos. 683, 684, 685, and 686. For entrees of broiled meats use the puree as in No. 682, to which you may add a reduced Madeira wine sauce in place of Allemande sauce, as may be required. EGG PLANT SALAD. No. 689. Peel two middle sized Egg Plants, cut them in slices a quarter of an inch thick, sprinkle each slice with a little salt, and put them together again. After half an hour press them gently, to extract the moisture. *Then dry them on a napkin. Fry them lightly in clarified butter, then drain them, on a napkin. When cold cut them in small pieces, put them in a salad bowl, with some scolloped pickled sturgeon, a spoonful of grated horse-radish mixed with mustard, a clove of fine chopped garlic, a little fine chopped parsley, and a handful of water cress. Season them with salt, pepper, olive oil, and vinegar. Mix the whole well together, then arrange them properly, and garnish them with stoned olives and hard boiled eggs cut into quarters. 156 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. LXXXIV French EGYPTIAN CUCUMBER. German Concombre Egyptien. Egyptische Gurke. No. 690. This is a tender annual plant, that is seldom cultivated in this country. The fruit is small, oblong, and very hairy, and is eaten either raw or cooked. In Egypt, a refreshing and agreeable beverage is made from the bulbs. Its culture is the same as that of cucumbers or melons. ARTICLE LXXXV. ELDERBERRIES. Graine de Surreau. Hollunderbeere. No. 691. The Elderberry tree is found in all parts of this country, the flowery buds and fruit being used. The flowery buds are used for diet drinks. Pick them in bunches in the morning, before the rising of the sun, put them in a wooden tub and cover it with a blanket. When the heat will have expanded them, pick off the flowers, spread them out on a table, and when perfectly dry, put them in boxes, and keep them in a dry, dark place. The berries when ripe are used for making and coloring red wine. ELDERBERRY CATSUP. No. 692. Pick two quarts of ripe Elderberries, put them in an earthen jar and pour two quarts of boiled wine vinegar over them. After three days drain them and put the liquid in a saucepan, adding two spoonfuls of sugar, half an ounce of pepper corn, a teaspoonful of ginger, a teaspoonful of ground mace, and a soup spoonful of Anchovie paste. Let it boil for half an hour, stirring it occasionally, and then pour it over the berries again. Cover it when cold, and after three days strain it through a towel, then put it in bottles and cork them well. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 157 ARTICLE LXXXVI Frci . c!l ELECAMPANE. German Aunie. Alantwurzel. No. 693. Is a hardy, herbaceous, perennial plant, growing spon- taneously in moist places and in the vicinity of gardens where it has once been cultivated. The stem is from three to five feet high, thick and strong, branching towards the top. The leaves are from nine inches to one foot in length, oval-toothed on the margin, and downy below. The flower resembles a small sunflower, and is general propagated by dividing the roots, but may be grown from seeds, which are sown just after ripening. Elecampane is cultivated for its roots, which are carminative, sudorific, tonic, and alleviating in pulmonary diseases. They are in perfection when of two years' growth. LXXXVII. ENDIVE, OR CHICOREE. Chicorea ou Scarole. Endive, or Cichorie. No, 694. The Endive, in its natural state, is very bitter, but when properly blanched its leaves make a fine salad, and coming as it does, after the Lettuce, it is very useful for autumn and winter salad. There are two special kinds, of which there are ten different varieties. The Wild Chicoree, known as the Dandelion, is mostly eaten in salad when young and tender. The cultivated Endive (broad leaf) is u*ed as a vegetable, and is prepared the same as spinach. CULTURE. No. 695. It may be grown at any season of the year, but is generally used late in the fall. Sow the seed during June or July, in drills fourteen inches apart, and when well up thin the plants to one foot apart. "When nearly full grown tie the outer leaves together over the centre, in order to blanch the heart of the plant. They will usually be fit for the table in ten days, and will continue in condition for use for about one week, so that the tieing up should be done every few days, in order to secure a succession. 158 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. FRENCH MOSS. No. 696. Is beautifully curled, and when well developed appears like a tuft of moss. BROAD-LEAVED BAT AVIAN. No. 697. This is the chicoree (scarole) of the French kind, and is chiefly used for cooking, but, when the outer leaves are gathered and tied at the top, the whole plant will blanch nicely and make an excellent salad for the table. GREEN CURLED. No. 698. Is the hardiest variety, with beautifully curled dark green leaves, which blanch white and are very crisp and tender. ENDIVES, WITH CREAM SAUCE. No. 699. Select six young and tender heads of Endives. Trim off the three outer hard layers of green leaves, trim the edges of the others, cut off the roots and wash the heads in plenty of cold water. Separate the leaves, as there are liable to be small worms in them, and then drain them. Have some lightly salted boiling- water in a saucepan. Put in the Endives, let them cook until ten- der and then immerse them in cold water. Tlien drain them and press them dry between the palms of the hands. Chop them fine on a chopping board. Then put four ounces of butter in a sauce- pan, and when it is melted add the chopped Endives, stirring them well over a brisk fire for a few minutes. Season them with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and add four spoonfuls of Cream sauce. When it is all well mixed and thoroughly warmed, serve it with small pieces of toasted broad around the dish. ENDIVES, GERMAN STYLE. No. 700. Prepare the Endives as in No. 699. Add two spoon- fuls of flour when the butter is melted, and let them cook to a light brown while stirring well. Then add the Endives. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and while mixing it all well together add a pint of cream or milk. Then serve it. ENDIVES WITH POACHED EGGS. No. 701. Prepare the Endives as in No. 699. Add Allemande sauce in place of Cream sauce, and garnish with poached eggs, having a few drops of meat glaze on each egg. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. \ ' ENDIVES WITH VEAL GRAVY. No. 702. When the Endives are prepared as in No. 699, chop- then! coarsely. Then put four ounces of butter in a saucepan, and when it is melted add two spoonfuls of flour. Cook it to a light brown while stirring it, add them and the Endives. Season them with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix them well, and add in slowly a pint of veal gravy. Add a piece of butter before serving. PUEEE OF ENDIVES. No. 703. Prepare and cook the Endives as in No. 699. Then chop them fine. Put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stir it well over a brisk fire and add four spoonfuls of reduced Allernande or Cream sauce. Then rub the puree through a fine sieve and put it back in the saucepan to warm thoroughly. Then add a spoonful of half-glaze and a piece of butter, and serve it. ENDIVE SALAD, FRENCH STYLE. No. 704. Wash and trim the endives carefully, separate the leaves, drain them and put them in a salad bowl. Bub a clove of garlic on two pieces of bread crust about the size of a dollar (this is called chapon). Add them to the salad and season with salt, pepper, vinegar and olive oil, and mix it all gently together. NOTE. Dress the salad only when ready to serve. ENDIVE SAL1D, GERMAN STYLE. No. 705. Prepare the Endive* as in No. 704. Season it with salt, pepper, vinegar and olive oil,, and add some fine chopped pars- ley or chives, aad half as much fine sliced boiled new potatoes as there is salad. Mix it all gently together and garnish it with pickled beets and hard boiled eggs cut in halves. ENDIVE SALAD, AMERICAN STYLE. No. 706. Trim and carefully wash the Endives, separate the leaves and put them on a napkin to absorb the moisture. Then put them in a salad bowl, season them with salt, pepper, olive oil and vinegar, and add some fine chopped tarragon and chervil. Put two fine chopped shallots in a towel and dip them in boiling water for one minute. Then immerse them in cold water, wring them dry and put them in the salad, mixing it gently together. 160 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. Arrange it properly, placing on the top some fine sliced green bell peppers. Garnish it with hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. SOUP CREAM OF ENDIVE WITH POACHED EGGS. No. 707. Prepare one gallon of thickened chicken or veal broth. Trim and wash eight Endives carefully, and boil them in water lightly salted. When boiled immerse them in cold water, then drain them and press them dry. Chop them in small pieces, put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Put them on a brisk fire and stir them well until the moisture is reduced. Then pour in the chicken broth slowly, and let it boil for twenty minutes. Then skim it and rub it through a fine sieve, and put it back in the saucepan to keep warm. Before serving it dilute eight raw eggs in a pint of cream, and add it to the soup, with six ounces of butter. Stir it all well until the butter is melted. Serve separately a dish of poached eggs in broth. ENDIVES PRESERVED IN CANS. No. 708. Select four dozen Endives, trim off the outer green leaves, and wash the remainder in plenty of cold water. Parboil them until tender, then immerse them in cold water, drain them and press them dry. Then chop them coarsely, and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Set the pan on a brisk fire, stirring well until all of the moisture is reduced. Then put them in an earthen jar to get cold. When cold put them in quart tin cans, solder on the covers, and boil the cans in a hot water bath for two hours. ARTICLK French FARINA. German Farina. . Farina. No. 709. Farina is made from wheat or corn and is largely sold under the name of Semoule, which, however, is a different article. Farina was the first and principal food of the ancient Bornans. It is used in soups, puddings and other pastry preparations. When it is cooked in milk and sweetened it makes an agreeable diet for invalids. It also makes a nice gruel when made with milk, water or broth. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 161 FARINA (POLENTA) OF CORN MEAL, PIEMONTAISE. No. 710. Put three quarts of water in a saucepan, and when it boils add a little salt and a piece of butter. Then drop in slowly two pounds of corn rneal Farina, while stirring it. When it commences to thicken set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly for twenty-five minutes, stirring it up from the bottom occasionally. When it is cooked take it off of the fire and add six ounces of butter and six ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, mixing it all well together. Then put it in Charlotte moulds, that are buttered with clarified butter, and keep them warm until ready for use, when you will turn them out and sprinkle grated Parmesan cheese over them. Serve them with a reduced beef gravy, in which put some essence of mushrooms. NOTE. Broth may be used instead of water. If cooked this way serve a tureeu of game consomme with them. FARINA (POLENTA) OF CORN MEAL ON SKIVERS. No. 711. Cook the Farina the same as in No. 710, but keep it firmer. When cooked take it off of the fire and add a piece of butter and some grated Parmesan cheese. Then pour it in a buttered pan, having it about one-quarter of an inch thick, put a buttered paper cover over it, and set it on ice to get cold. Cut out as many pieces as possible, the size of a twenty-five cent piece, with a round cutter. Then cut some Swiss cheese in thin slices, and with the same cutter cut out the same number of pieces as you have of the Farina. Take a four inch wooden skiver and place on it a ring of the Farina, and then a ring of cheese, alternating in this way until three inches are covered. Then roll them in fresh bread crumbs, dip them in beaten eggs and then bread them again. Mould them neatly and fry them in hot lard. When nicely browned drain them and replace the wooden skiver with a silver one. Serve them on a napkin. FARINA CRUSTS (POLENTA) OF CORN MEAL, ITALIAN STYLE. No. 712. Cook the Farina as in No. 710, but keep it firmer. When it is cooked, add four ounces of butter and six ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and mix them well together. Then put it in one dozen small, round buttered Charlotte moulds. Smooth the tops evenly, cover them with a buttered paper and set them in a cool place. When they are cold turn them out. Remove the paper cover, roll them in fresh bread crumbs, and dip them in beaten eggs. Then bread them again and shape them nicely. Make a light impression on the top of each with a small cutter. Then fry them 11 162 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. in hot lard, and when nicely browned, drain them. After this, take off the small cover and scoop out the center, (taking care not to break the shell), and fill them with the following preparation: Put the yolks of five raw eggs in a saucepan, add a pinch of nut- meg, and dilute it all with half a pint of cream. Add to it one pound of grated Parmesan cheese. Set it on a moderate fire and stir it until the cheese is melted. (Do not let it boil.) It should have the consistency of a sauce. When filled, serve them hot. PARINA CRUSTS OR STANDS, OF CORN MEAL, FOR HOT OR COLD SIDE DISHES. No. 713. These crusts or stands are made either with bread, rice or Farina. Those made with Farina are better than those with rice, for hot dishes, as they are not so heavy, and are better than those made with bread, as the Farina does not absorb the moisture as quick as the bread when they lay for any length of time. Cook the Farina in water, lightly salted, keeping it firm. When it is cooked put it in a buttered mould as near the size of the crust as possible, that you intend making. Smooth the surface, cover it with a buttered paper, cover and put on this a wooden cover with a weight on top to press the Farina down solid in the mould. Lay it aside to get cold and hard. Then take it out of the mould, and with a small sharp knife cut it into any shape desired. Dip it in beaten eggs and then in fresh bread crumbs or raspings of bread, and fry it in hot lard until nicely browned. Then drain it and keep it for use. FARINA TARTLETS OF CORN MEAL. No. 714. Cook the Farina as in No. 710, and keep it firm. But- ter some small Tartlet moulds with clarified butter and set them in a cool place to let the butter get cold. Put the Farina into the moulds with a table knife, leaving a space in the center for filling. Fill the center with grated Parmesan cheese and smooth off the top. Then set them in a cool place, and when they are cold take them out of the moulds. Bread them in a mixture of half bread crumbs and half grated Parmesan cheese. Then dip them in beaten eggs and bread them again with the same mixture. Shape them well, then fry them in hot lard until nicely browned. Then drain them, dish them up on a napkin and serve them hot. FARINA QUENELLES, OR BALLS, OF CORN MEAL. No. 715. These are made nearly the same as Tartlets, except that Gruyere cheese is used instead of Parmesan cheese. When THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 163 they are cold dip them in beaten eggs and fry them in hot lard. They may be used as a garniture or served the same as Tartlets. FRIED FARINA (POLENTA) OF CORN MEAL, RAMEQUIN. No. 716. Cook one pound of Farina as in No. 710. When it is cooked take it off of the fire, add three ounces of butter divided into small pieces, and four ounces cf grated Parmesan cheese. Season it with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar, and mix it well together. Moisten the pan slightly with cold water and drop a soup-spoonful of the Polenta into it so it will spread out a little, and continue doing this until the bottom of the pan is well covered, keeping each cake separate. Put some grated Parmesan cheese in the center of each, or a small piece of Gruyere cheese. Now cover each piece with a thin layer of the Polenta and set the pan aside, so the cakes will get cold. With a cutter about the size of a dollar cut out the cakes to a round shape. Take them out of the pan, dip them in beaten eggs and then in bread crumbs. Put a little clarified butter in a frying pan, and when it is warm add the Ramequin (not putting too many in the pan at a time), and fry them on both sides to a nice brown. Serve them on a napkin with fried parsley as a garniture. FARINA (POLENTA) FOR GARNITURES. No. 717. When the Polenta is cooked as in No. 710, put it in small round buttered Charlotte moulds and keep them warm. Then turn them out and use them for large garnitures. They are espe- cially appropriate for Italian dinners. Those prepared as in Nos. 713, 714, 715 and 716 can also be used as garnitures. FARINA GRUEL. No. 718. Boil one pint of water, milk or broth, and when boil- ing drop in it four soup-spoonfuls of Farina, stirring it well. Let it cook slowly for twenty-five minutes. Sweeten or season to taste. ARTICLE French FECULA. German Fecule. Fecula. No. 719. Fecula is the nutritious part of wheat, starch, farina or potatoes. It is used in sauces and soups, being devoid of flavor, 164 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. and is nutritious, healthful and light. It can be used for every purpose that arrow root is used for. In cooking Fecula for inva- lids, it should be first diluted in cold water and then put in boiling milk, broth or water. About two spoonfuls is sufficient for a pint of liquid. Stir it well when putting it in. Let it cook for about twenty minutes, and then season or sweeten it as may be desired. xc. French SWEET FENNEL. German Fenouil. fenchel. No. 720. Sweet Fennel is a hardy, perennial, aromatic plant, of which there are several varieties. The common, or bitter fennel, has strong, deep, fleshy roots, and the seeds have a brownish color and a bitter taste similar to the leaves. Sweet Fennel seeds are used by confectioners and distillers, and the leaves are used for flavoring soups and sauces. The seeds resemble anise seeds. CULTURE. No. 721. Fennel is cultivated the same as anise. Italian Fennel is quite distinct from the common variety, and is cultivated annually. The flowers are produced in umbels, as in the other species. The seeds are yellowish in color, slender, slightly curved, and have a pleasant anise like taste. When the stems have attained a sufficient size, they should be earthed up, the same as celery, to blanch. If properly treated the stems will be white, crisp and tender in about three weeks. When blanched they lose their bitter taste and are excellent for salads, possessing a sweet, pleasant, aromatic taste, and may be served the same way as plain celery for a relish. STEWED FENNEL. No. 722. Wash the Fennel in plenty of cold water and trim off the hard leaves. Parboil them for five minutes, then immerse them in cold water, and trim them evenly. Then cook them the same as celery, in No. 462. Pour over them some Butter, Allemande or Espagnole sauce. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 165 XCI. French FLAVORS, ESSENCES, AND EXTRACTS. German Essence. Extrakt. No. 723. Flavors, essences and extracts, are used by confec- tioners and pastry cooks, and for various culinary purposes, to impart an agreeable aroma, and are purchased in liquid form. The best quality should always be procured. Aromatic herbs and plants are used in making coffee, tea, wine, juleps, and many other drinks. The concentrated essence of meat, game, fish, or vegetables, when added to sauces and other culinary preparations gives a splendid flavor and is greatly relished. ESSENCE OF VEGETABLES. No. 724. Put in a saucepan four pounds of rump of beef, a shin of veal cut in pieces, one hen, ten carrots, eight onions, five turnips, two heads of lettuce, two heads of celery, a faggot of chervil, and half a dozen cloves. Pour one gallon of broth over this and let it boil. Skim it well and let it cook slowly until well done. Then strain the broth, and if not strong enough reduce it to one quart. ARTICLE XCII. FLOUR. Farine. Mehl. No. 725. Flour is the finely ground meal of wheat or any other grain, and has many grades and varieties. It is much used for alimentary purposes, and the best should always be procured. The flour used in making bread is of a different quality than that of which pastry is made. Flour when dried in the oven and lightly colored or cooked with butter to a light brown, gives a better flavor to sauces. It also makes a healthful soup and is more digestible than when used raw. REPERE. No. 726. Eepere is flour mixed with the white of eggs into a paste, and is used to make crusts stands, or any borders adhere to a dish. 166 HAEDEK'S AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICLE XCIII French GARBURE. German Garbure. Garbilr. No. 727. Garbure is an old and popular soup in Gascony, France. It is composed principally of vegetables, the basis always being gratinated. For its preparation see the Book on Soups. ARTICLK XCIV. GARLIC. Ail. Knoblauch. No. 728. Garlic is a bulbous rooted plant, having a strong, pen- etrating odor. The bulb is composed of many smaller bulbs called cloves. It is not popular with Americans, although used consid- erably in Europe and in the Southern States. It should be used with moderation, as the breath of persons who eat Garlic is very offensive. It is used in many preparations, but can be omitted and replaced by using shallots or onions, when desired. Garlic, when used in salad, should be rubbed on a crust of bread (called chapon). When used for stews, etc., and left whole, its flavor will not be strong and penetrating as when mashed or chopped, and gives the preparation an appetizing and agreeable taste, especially in mutton stews. CULTURE. No. 729. Prepare the ground the same as for onions. Plant the bulbs in drills eight inches apart, and four inches apart in rows, and cover them two inches deep. When the leaves turn yellow, take up the bulbs and dry them as you would do with onions. GARLIC BUTTER OR GASCONY BUTTER. No. 730. Boil one dozen cloves of Garlic for ten minutes. Then drain them and pound them in a mortar with half a pound of but- ter. Add a little nutmeg and a pinch of red pepper, and when well mixed, rub it through a fine sieve and keep it in a cool place. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 167 CHAPON FOR SALAD DRESSING. , No. 731. This is principally used when dressing endives or dandelion for salad, but may be used in all green salads to give it a Garlic flavor. Cut a crust of bread the size of half a dollar, rub it with the clove of Garlic and mix it in with the salad. PUREE OF GARLIC. No. 732. Peel one dozen Garlic bulbs and parboil them in plenty of water lightly salted, until they are cooked. Then drain them and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Set it on a brisk fire to reduce the moisture. Season with salt and a pinch of red pepper and rub them through a fine sieve. Put the puree in a saucepan and add a few spoonfuls of reduced Espagnole sauce. Before serving, add a piece of butter. NOTE. This puree should only be made when ordered specially. ARTICLE XCV. French GHERKIN. German Achars ou Cornichon. Essiggurke, or Pfefftrgurke. No. 733. The Gherkin is a native of the West Indies and is not a cucumber proper, but is a little rough, prickly fruit of compara- tively small size, with a regular oval formation. It grows on a pretty vine, having leaves similar to the watermelon, and is princi- pally grown for pickling. It is seldom used at the table in its raw state. In America small cucumbers are used, and when pickled are called Gherkins. See Cucumbers, Article LXXVI. XCVI. GINGER. Gingembre. Ingwer. No. 734. Ginger is an aromatic plant, a native of Hindostan, and is cultivated in all parts of India and China. The root is the portion in which the virtues of the plant reside. After the roots 168 HAEDEE'S AMERICAN COOKEEY, are gathered and cleansed they are scalded in boiling water, to prevent germination, and are then rapidly dried. This is the ordinary black ginger, most of which comes from Calcutta, and is called East India Ginger. In Jamaica another variety is prepared by selecting the best roots, depriving them of their epidermis and drying them carefully in the sun. This is the highly valued white Ginger, generally called Jamaica Ginger. A preserve is made from Ginger by selecting the young roots, depriving them of their cortical covering and boiling them in syrup. This is imported from the East and West Indies, and from China. When good it is translucent and tender. The odor of Ginger is aromatic and penetrating, the taste spicy, pungent, hot, and biting. These properties gradually diminish and are ultimately lost by exposure. It is used by pastry cooks, and confectioners, in putting up spiced preserves and fruits. Pieces of Ginger that are light and friable, worm-eaten or very fibrous, should be rejected. Ginger is often adulterated with rice- starch, flour-ginger, brick dust, chalk, capsicum, and mustard. Ginger is a grateful stimulant and carminative, and is often given in dyspepsia, flatulent colic, and the feeble state of the alimentary canal attendant upon atonic gout. ARTICLE XCVII. French GLOBE CUCUMBER. German Concombre des Propfettes. Kugelgurke. No. 735. The Globe Cucumber is a tender annual plant and is said to have originated in Arabia. The fruit is round and small, being thickly set with rigid bristles. In its green state it is generally pickled and can be prepared the same as ordinary cucum- bers. Globe Cucumbers are not generally preferred to the ordinary kind. ARTICLE XCVIII. GOOSEFOOT, OR WHITE QUINOA, Anserine, Ktebekraul. No. 736. Is an annual plant propagated from seeds, and is from the southern part of the United States. There are three varieties: The THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 169 white, the red, and the black. The white seed is preferred. The stem is five feet high with pale green leaves. The flowers have a whitish color and are produced in clusters. The seeds are small, of a yellowish-white color, resembling the millet. The leaves are used the same as greens. The seeds are used the same as common wheat, and for medicinal purposes. CULTURE. No. 737. If grown in good soil the plant will produce an abun- dance of foliage. Sow it in May, in drills four feet apart, and as it- grows, thin out gradually a foot apart in the rows. ARTICLE XCIX. French GRAHAM FLOUR. German Graham Farine. Graham Mehl. No. 738. Graham Flour is taken from the name of Sylvester Graham, a lecturer on dietetics, and is merely unbolted wheat. It is used in making bread, pastry and gruels, which will be described in the book on Pastry. GEAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES. No. 739. Put one pound of Indian meal in a bowl and add one pint of warm water and two quarts of cold milk. Mix with this one pound of Graham Flour to make a light batter. Then add one ounce of dissolved compressed yeast and a large spoonful of molasses. Mix it well together, cover it with a towel and let it rest over night. In the morning add a handful of white flour, a little salt, a spoonful of melted butter, a pinch of soda, and a little water, if necessary, to make a light batter. Cook it the same as Buckwheat Cakes, No. 268. ARTICLE C. HERBS. Herbe. KrSuter. No. 740. No garden is complete without a few Herbs for culinary or medicinal purposes, and care should be taken to harvest them 170 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. properly. This should be done on a dry day, just before they come into full bloom. They should then be dried and packed away closely. CULTURE. No. 741. Sow them in spring in shallow drills, one foot apart, and when well up thin out or transplant them to a proper distance apart. FINE HERBS FOR CULINARY PURPOSES. COOKED FINE HERBS. No. 742. Chop one white onion finely, or use half an onion and half a shallot, as may be required. Put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, cover the pan, and let them cook slowly, (not letting them get browned.) When they are cooked, add some finely-chopped parsley and some finely-chopped mushrooms (truffles if needed), and let them cook until the moisture is reduced. Then add a spoonful of veal glaze and put it away in an earthen bowl for future use. FINE HERBS EAW. No. 743. These comprise parsley, chives, fennel, tarragon, chervil, shallots and onions being used separately or mixed, as may be required. DUXELLE. No. 744. Prepare Duxelle the same as you would cooked fine herbs, and when cooked add two spoonfuls of reduced Allemande sauce. For a brown Duxelle use a reduced Espagnole sauce. FINE HERB SAUCE. No. 745. Chop one large onion finely and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry it lightly, and then add a handful of finely chopped fresh mushrooms. Cover the saucepan and let them cook until the moisture is reduced. Then add a pint of Allemande or Espagnole sauce, letting it boil slowly for twenty minutes. Then skim it and add some finely chopped parsley. DRY HERBS. No. 746. These are Herbs that have been cut and dried. Some are used whole, while with others only the leaves or flowers are used. They are used to aromatize certain culinary dishes, and also THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 171 for medicinal purposes. When pulverized they are used as spices. The kinds mostly used, which should always be kept on hand, are as follows: Basil Sweet, Bene, Borage, Burnet, Caraway Seed, Catnip, Cicely Sweet, Dill Seed, Sweet Fennel, Sweet Marjoram, Summer Savory, Sage, Thyme, etc. ARTICLE; CI. French HOLLYHOCK, OR ROSE MALLOW. German Roses Tremiere. JRosenpappel. No. 747. Remove the flower from the stem before they are developed, then dry them thoroughly and put them in boxes in a dry place, free from dirt. Use them for for diet drinks (tisanes) as in Article LXXXII. ARTICLE CII. HOOSUNG, OR OOSUNG. Oosung. Adsung. No. 748. This is a lettuce-like plant from China, which is not cultivated much in this country, but is well known on the Pacific Coast. The succulent stem is the part used. This is divested of the outer rind, then boiled in water lightly salted and dressed with Butter or Hollandaise sauce. It may also be used in soups and sauces the same as okra. The cultivation is the same as that of lettuce. ARTICLE CII I. HOPS. Houplon, Hop/en. No. 749. Hops are considered a native product of this country, and are found in all parts of the United States. The roots are perennial, but the stems are annual. The bearing and fertile 172 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. flowers are produced on separate plants, the former being very numerous, and panipulated. The fertile flowers are generally cemented together, or form a collection of small scales which are more or less covered with a fine yellow powder called Lupalin. The plant is principally cultivated for its flowers, which are largely used by manufacturers of malt liquors. The young shoots are cut in the spring, and used for culinary purposes, when they are five or six inches high. They are eaten as a salad, or are prepared the same as asparagus, which they somewhat resemble in taste. They are recommended by physicians for persons having nervous debility. BOILED HOPS WITH SAUCE. No. 750. Cook the stems the same as asparagus, and serve them with Cream or Hollaudaise sauce. They are good to use on "fast" clays, and when cold they are mixed with other vegetables for salad. STEWED HOPS, WITH SAUCE. No. 751. Take some young stems and cut them in pieces about one inch long, all of equal size. Then peel them and as you pre- pare them put them in cold acidulated water. Put a saucepan, con- taining some light salted water, on the fire. Add a little vinegar and when it boils add the Hops. When they are cooked drain them and then dry them on a napkin. Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar. Toss them over the fire and when warmed add a few spoonfuls of Allemande sauce. Before serving add a piece of but- ter, the juice of one lemon and some finely chopped parsley, tossing them well over until the butter is melted. Garnish it with small pieces of toast. FRIED HOPS. No. 752. When the Hops are prepared as in No. 751, drain them and then dry them on a napkin. Then parboil them for five min- utes, after which immerse them in cold water and dry them on a napkin. Then put them in an earthen bowl, add the juice of. a lemon, and season them with salt and pepper. Set them aside for awhile, and when ready for use drain them, flour them lightly and put them in a frying batter. Take them out of the batter one at a time, put them in the frying pan in hot lard and fry them. When cooked drain them, season with salt and pepper, and serve them on a napkin. NOTE. They should be fried in a frying pan (not too many at a time) , the same as oyster plants. They may be fried by simply dipping them in beaten eggs and then rolling them in flour. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 173 ARTICLE CIV. HOARHOUND. Marrube. Andorn. No. 753. Hoarhound is a perennial herb with a strong aromatic odor and a bitter, pungent taste. It is a tonic and enters largely into the composition of cough syrups and lozenges, being princi- pally used by confectioners and for medicinal purposes. CULTURE. No. 754. It will thrive in any soil, but will be stronger if grown in light, poor soil. ARTICLE; CV. HORSE-RADISH. Raifort. Meeretlig. No. 755. Horse-radish is a plant having a root of a pungent taste, which when grated is much used as a condiment. There are two varieties, the wild and the cultivated. The latter kind is the best, attaining a large brown colored root, the flesh of which is white. It has a burning spicy taste, and is used both raw and cooked. It is grated and served as a relish, or in sauces, and is also very agreeable to eat with boiled beef. CULTURE. No. 756. The best method of growing Horse-radish is from the little roots, four or five inches in length, and not from the crowns. The small roots will produce good radish fit for use in one season's growth. Plant a set with the small end down, where the slanting cut is, and so that the top will be two inches under the soil. It can remain in the ground until very late in the autumn, and can be bedded, or a portion can remain in the ground until spring. A dozen roots will furnish all that will be needed for family use for a life time, as it constantly increases, and the only danger is that it will spread too fast and become troublesome. It is best, therefore, to plant it in some corner of the garden where it can grow without injuring other plants. 174 HAEDEE'S AMEEICAN COOKEEY. HOESE-EADISH FOE A EELISH. No. 757. Scrape and grate the roots, put them into an earthen bowl and moisten them with a little wine vinegar. It is best to prepare it fresh every day. It creates an appetite, and is excellent with boiled beef. If it is to be kept for use, put up in tightly- corked bottles. HOESE-EADISH SAUCE. No. 758. Scrape and grate one root. Have in a saucepan one pint of Cream sauce, and when it boils add the Horse-radish, cover the pan and let it simmer on the side of the fire for fifteen minutes. Then rub it through a fine sieve into a saucepan, and add a piece of butter and a piece of meat glaze. HOESE-EADJSH SAUCE WITH APPLES. No. 759. Scrape and grate one root and chop it finely. Put one pint of Apple sauce in a saucepan. Then add the Horse-radish and reduce the sauce to one-quarter of its quantity on the fire. Then rub it through a fine sieve into an earthen bowl. Add the juice of one orange to it, and serve it cold. HOESE-RADISH SAUCE, WITH CREAM. No. 760. Scrape and grate one root, chop it finely and put it into an earthen bowl, with the same quantity of bread crumbs. Add three spoonfuls of cream and one of sour cream, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a little vinegar and some salt. Mix them all well together. NOTE. Make it one hour before using it an3 serve it with hot or cold roasted meat. HOESE-EADISH BUTTER. No. 761. Scrape and grate one root, put it into a mortar with half a pound of butter, and pound it into a paste. Then rub it through a fine sieve and keep it in a cool place for use. HOESE-EADISH VINEGAR. No. 762. Grate half a pound of Horse-radish and put it into an earthen jar, with two ounces of sugar. Pour two quarts of wine or cider vinegar over it, and cover the jar tightly. In ten days strain it and filter it, then put it in bottles and cork them well. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 175 E CVI. HYSSOP. e. Isop. No. 763. Hyssop is a hardy perennial plant, having an aromatic flavor and a warm, pungent taste. It is a stimulant and expecto- rant, and is used in asthma and chronic catarrh. The flowering summits and leaves, when dried, are the parts used for making tea, etc. CULTURE. No. 764. Sow them in a dry, sandy soil, and thin them out to eight inches apart. evil. INDIAN STAR ANISE SEED. Anis Etoile ou Badiane. Ste.rnanis. No. 765. The tree from which this seed is procured grows in the Phillipme Islands and in China. The natives call it Pansi- Pansi. The seeds give an agreeable taste to alimentary compounds and are much used in the West India chocolates. The oil has the same properties as that of anise seed, but is more subtile and pene- trating. The Chinese eat the seeds as a relish after their repasts, and the natives of India make a liquor from them called Anise- Arak, which is largely exported to Holland, where it is also highly esteemed. CVI 1 1. JAPAN PEA. Pois Japynais. Japan Erbse. No. 766. The Japan Pea is a native of Japan and the East Indies. The plant is strong and erect, with numerous spreading branches. The seed pods are small and downy, and grow abun- dantly in clusters over the entire plant. The seeds are small and round, and when ripe are of a creamy yellowish color. The seeds 176 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. are the only part of the plant eaten, and when young are tender and delicate. The ripe seeds are soaked in water, the same as our com- mon dry white beans are. They then become quite soft and tender, and have a pleasant nutty and oily flavor. There is a variety with green seeds, which is considered superior to the yellow seeded. They thrive best in the Southern States in this country. Prepare and cook them the same as our common peas. CULTURE. No. 767. The plant is raised from seed and requires the entire season for its development. Sow the seeds as soon as the ground is warm, in drills twenty inches apart, and drop the seeds twelve inches apart in the drills, covering them with three-fourths of an inch of soil. ARTICLK Cix. French JASMINE. Herman Jasmin. Jasmin. No. 768. The flowers of the Jasmine are use by pastry cooks and confectioners for flavoring purposes. They are dried and put into bottles with spirits of wine. ARTICLE ex. JUNIPER. Oenievre. Wachholderbeere. No. 769. The Juniper berry is the fruit of the Juniper tree. It is used for seasoning sour kraut and in cooking ham. It is also used by distillers for certain liquors. A.RTICLB CXI. KALE, OR BORECOLE. ChoU'Vert. Bl'itter-Kohl. No. 770. Kale or Borecole are general terms applied to those classes of cabbages which do not form heads. Some of the vari- THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 177 eties are the most tender and delicate, of any of the cabbage species. They are hardy, and improve when exposed to a light frost. CULTUBE. No. 771. They may be sown as late as December in the North- ern States. They will grow out during the winter in the South, without protection, and are treated like the winter cabbages. If they are cut when slightly frozen, thaw them out in cold water before boiling them. TALL GREEN CURLED SCOTCH. No. 772. This is a hardy variety, which is improved by a mod- erate frost. It is about two feet high, with an abundance of dark green curled leaves. It stands the winter in the Middle States without any protection. i GERMAN DWARF, PURPLE. No. 773. This is a dwarf compact plant, composed of a mass of large, finely frilled leaves, of a deep purple color. It is tender and of excellent quality. GERMAN DWARF, GREEN. No. 774. This is a smooth leaved sort that is very popular in the South, where if sown in the fall it needs no protection, growing vigorously all the winter. It is not equal to the other varieties for use in the North. DWARF ERFURT. No. 775. This is a fine curled variety of a yellowish green color, that grows very close to the ground. COTTAGER'S. No. 776. A valuable variety of excellent flavor. It grows about one foot high, and the leaves are of a rich green color, curled and feathered to the ground. KALE, WITH CREAM. No. 777. Wash and trim three heads of Kale. Boil them in water, lightly salted, until tender, then immerse them in cold water, 12 178 HAEDEK'S AMERICAN COOKERY. drain and press them dry. Then chop them finely and put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add a little cream, reduce it to its proper consistency, and serve it. KALE FOR GREENS, WITH SALT PORK OR BACON. No. 778. Kale is much used for greens with salt pork, bacon or "any other salt meats. Cook the greens with the meats or separate- ly, chop them coarsely and serve them with the meats. NOTE. The Kale can also be used, when stewed, in any way that cabbage is used. CXI I. French LAVENDER. German Lavande. LavendeL No. 779. This is a hardy perennial, aromatic plant, common to the south of Europe. The flower yields an oil used in medicine and perfumery. The Spike-Lavender yields a coarser oil that is used in the arts and for the distillation of Lavender Water, or is dried and used to perfume linen. The flowers should be picked before they are fully expanded, and dried quickly. They are also distilled, and so is the oil from the flower, bearing its name. CXI 1 1. LEEK. Poireau. Lauch. No. 780. The Leek is a hardy biennial plant of the Onion family. It is, however, without a proper bulb, having, in the place of this a cylindrical body of succulent leaves, which are eatable. The small bulb is oblong and tunicated, the lower blanched portion being the part eaten. By some people it is preferred to the onion, when young. It is used principally for flavoring and as an ingre- dient in soups. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 179 CULTURE. No. 781. Dig the trendies eight inches deep and make the soil, at the bottom, rich and fine. Sow the seeds early in spring and cover them lightly with earth. Thin them to six inches apart, and when the plants are twelve inches high gather the leaves together and fill the trench so as to blanch the lower part of the plants. Store them in the cellar or out of doors (as you would celery), before severe weather commences. LONDON FLAG. No. 782. This variety is more generally cultivated in this country than in any other. It is hardy and of good quality. LITTLE MONTAGNE. No. 783. This is one of the smallest of the Leek species. The stems are short and slender. PROLIFEROUS LEEK. No. 784. This is a vigorous variety of the common Leek. The bulb will remain sound several weeks after they have ripened. YELLOW POITON. No. 785. The blanched portion of the stem is of a yellowish white color, and is more tender than that of any other variety, and of a remarkably large size. LARGE ROUEN. No. 786. The stem is rather short, with very thick dark green leaves. It is considered one of the good kinds. SOUP PUREE OF LEEKS, VIENNOISE. No. 787. Slice fine the white part of one dozen good sized Leeks, and put them into a saucepan, with a piece of butter. Fry them lightly (not long enough to get browned), and then add one or two quarts of broth. When they are well cooked add three quarts of thickened chicken or veal broth. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar, and add a faggot of parsley garnished. Let it cook slowly for twenty-five minutes. Then take out the faggot, skim off the grease, rub the soup through a fine 180 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. sieve, and put it back in the saucepan to keep warm. Before serving add one pint of cream, in which dilute the yolks of eight raw eggs and a piece of butter. Stir it until the butter is melted. Then add some fine chopped chives, and serve it with fried bread crumbs separately. ARTICLK CXIV. French LENTIL, OR LENS. German Lenlitles. Lint-e. No. 788. This is a hardy annual plant, with an erect and angu- lar branching stem, one foot and a half high. The pods are some- what quadrangular, and enclose one or two lens-like seeds, the size and color varying in different varieties. The Lentil is a vegetable of the greatest antiquity, and was much esteemed in olden times by those making long journeys. The seeds are used and prepared the same as beans, and for soups and purees, they are prepared the. same as dried peas. CULTURE. No. 789. Sow the seeds in May, in drills the same as green peas. They succeed best in dry, warm, light soil. COMMON LENTIL. No. 790. This variety is considered superior to the large Lentil .. The seeds are much smaller and are greatly esteemed. GREEN LENTIL, No. 791. This somewhat resembles the small Lentil, the princi- pal distinction being in the color, which is green, spotted and marbled with black. LARGE LENTIL. No. 792. The seed is white or cream colored. It is one of the most productive of all varieties, though inferior in quality. SMALL LENTIL. No. 793. This is rather a late variety, of a close branching habit,, being very prolific, and a variety much used by the French. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 181 LENTILS, MAITRE D' HOTEL. No. 794. Wash one quart of Lentils in lukewarm water and put them into a saucepan with three quarts of water, a little salt, two onions, two carrots and a faggot of celery. Pat them on the fire to boil, skim them and let them boil slowly until tender. Then drain off the moisture, take out the carrots, onions and celery, -and add six ounces of butter and some fine chopped parsley, and season it to taste. Toss them in the pan well together, adding a few spoonfuls of the broth, if needed. FKICASSEE OF LENTILS. No. 795. Prepare and cook the Lentils as in No. 794, and when tender drnin them. Put into a saucepan one chopped onion, with four ounces of butter, and a spoonful of flour. Let it cook slowly until nicely browned. Then add some of the broth of the Lentils, to make a light sauce. Let it boil for fifteen minutes, and then add the Lentils. Season them with salt and pepper, and let them simmer for fifteen minutes; then serve. PUREE OF LENTILS FOR GARNITURE, CONDE. No. 796. When the Lentils are cooked, as in No. 794, take out the carrots, onions, and celery. Then drain them and rub them through a fine sieve. Put the Puree in a flat saucepan and add four spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce. Reduce it to its consistency, and before serving add a piece of butter. SOUP, PUREE OF LENTILS. No. 797. Cook two quarts of Lentils, as in No. 794, adding half broth to the water. When thoroughly cooked take out the carrots, onions, and celery, and rub it through a fine sieve. If too thick add the quantity of broth necessary. Put it back in the saucepan, stirring it until it boils. Then set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly for twenty-five minutes. Before serving skim it well, add a piece of butter and serve with small fried bread crumbs. A ham bone, or piece of salt pork, may be boiled with the soup. SOUP, PUREE OF LENTILS, CONTE. No. 798. Wash two quarts of Lentils and put them in a saucepan with one gallon of water. When it boils skim it. Then add two onions (in which stick six cloves), a faggot of parsley garnished 182 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. with celery, and two carrots. Season with salt, put on the cover and let it boil slowly until tender. Then take out the faggot of parsley and the carrots and onions, and rub the soup through a fine sieve. Put it back into the saucepan and add game broth to make it of the desired consistency. Set it on the fire, stirring it with a wooden spoon until it boils. Then let it boil slowly for half an hour. Skim it well. Prepare separate!} 7 four heads of braized celery, and when cooked cut them into scallops, adding them to the soup, when it is ready to serve. PUREE OF LENTILS, HUNTERS' STYLE. No. 799. Prepare the soup as in No. 798, adding a piece of bacon while cooking the soup. When it is done take out the bacon and the vegetables, and rub the soup through a fine sieve. Make separately a game broth of quails or partridges. Dilute the puree with this broth, letting it boil slowly for half an hour. Skim it well and add the breasts of the birds, cut into small square pieces, and serve with small fried bread crumbs. CXV. French LETTUCE. German Lailue. Lattichsalat. No. 800. Lettuce is a hardy annual plant of Asiatic origin, and is always grown from seed. It may be had at all seasons of the year, but its quality is not always the same. There is no vegetable more generally used than Lettuce, yet few people know how appe- tizing it is when brought to the table fresh and in an unwilted con- dition. It ranks as one of the best green salads, and is much used with chicken and other salads. Lettuce is also used as a vegetable prepared the same as spinach, and when stuffed, and is used as a garniture for soups and meats. There are a number of varieties of Lettuce. CULTURE. No. 801. The quality of Lettuce depends largely upon rapid and vigorous growth, and to secure that we need very rich, mellow soil, frequent surface cultivation, and an abundant supply of water. For the earliest crop sow the seed under glass, in March, and thin THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 183 out the plants to prevent crowding. If you intend to mature the plants under glass, keep the beds quite close, and water it frequently and abundantly with liquid manure, and keep it well shaded during sunny days. If the plants are to be set in the open ground, give them all the air possible, without freezing them, and harden them off by full exposure and the withdrawal of water before transplanting. The plants should be set out as soon as a warm spot can be made very rich and mellow. When they are set out, sow the seeds in drills, fourteen inches apart, and thin them out, as wanted for the table, until they stand eighteen inches apart. Hoe them frequently, and water them when dry. The Cos varieties should be tied up about ten days before using, in order to blanch the inner leaves. EARLY TENNIS BALL. No. 802. This is the best variety of head Lettuce for growing under glass, being very hardy and having thick, crisp, and tender leaves. It forms a compact head under glass, but when in the open air, unless planted very early, it is liable to be loose and open. BLACK SEEDED SIMPSON. No. 803. The leaves of this variety are very large and form a compact mass, rather than a distinct head. They are of superior quality, being thin and tender, and of a light green color. Their color prevents any wilting of the plant being noticed, and as a consequence, it is a popular market variety. SIMPSON EARLY CURLED. No. 804. This is one of the best early varieties for family use. All of the leaves tend to produce a large loose head. The leaves are dark green, beautifully crimped, and are tender and crisp. EARLY BOSTON CURLED. No. 805. This variety has numerous large dark green leaves, that grow close together, the edges being deeply frilled, so that the whole plant forms around mass, closely resembling a bunch of moss. EARLY PRIZE HEAD (FERRY'S). No. 806. This is the best Lettuce known. It forms a mammoth hardy plant, of which even the outer leaves are crisp and tender, 184 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. remaining so throughout the season. It is slow to run up to seed. Its flavor is delicious, and it is much used in soups, etc. HANSON. No. 807. This is a very fine heading variety, of large size, and stands the sun better than any other sort. The heads are large, solid, sweet, tender, and crisp throughout, and are devoid of any bitter taste. DEACON. No. 808. This plant is small, having very thick and smooth dark green leaves, which are crisp and tender. EARLY CURLED SILESIA. No. 809. An early variety of very strong growth, which does not form a head, but is the best kind for cutting and bunching when young. The leaves are large and wrinkled and of a light yellow color. It resembles the Cos varieties in quality. FRANKFORT HEAD. No. 810. A dark green curled variety with close round heads, which when opened are finely blanched and very crisp. It remains in head a long time. LARGE DRUMHEAD. No. 811. The head is remarkably large and compact, though somewhat flattened. It is crisp and tender and one of the finest summer varieties. Its color is pale green without and white in the center. PHILADELPHIA BUTTER. No. 812. This is a very early variety, desirable for forcing and for early planting, out of doors, but it does not stand the sun well. It is medium in size, having a compact head, the leaves being smooth and thick and of a bluish-green color. BROWN DUTCH. No. 813. This is an old and hardy variety, and always forms a large, solid head, which is somewhat coarse looking. The leaves are large and thick, of a deep green color outside, but beautifully blanched within. They are exceedingly sweet, tender, and of good flavor. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 185 GREEN FRINGED. No. 814. An ornamental variety of exceeding beaut}*, but inferior in quality. The inside of the leaves is white, the edges a light green, delicately fringed and crimped. Its handsome appearance makes it well worthy of cultivation for table decoration alone. WHITE PARIS COS. No. 815. This is a large hardy variety, which takes long in running to seed, and is considered by many to be far better than the other varieties. The heads are long and upright, with oblong leaves, that are tender, brittle, and highly flavored. SALAMANDER. No. 816. This is the best variety for summer use, forming large, compact heads. It is light green in color outside, and white inside. Its great advantage is that it will stand drought and heat, and will remain longer in heads than the other varieties. LETTUCE BRAIZED, SPANISH STYLE. No. 817. Select one dozen solid heads of Lettuce and trim off the outer leaves. Wash the Lettuce in plenty of cold water and then drain them. Parboil them for five minutes, then immerse them in cold water. After this press each head in the hand well, arrange them on a napkin and trim them. Next line a deep flat saucepan with thin slices of fat pork, on which you will put the heads of Lettuce side by side. Season with salt, pepper and nut- meg, and add a faggot of parsley garnished with two bay leaves, a sprig of thyme and two onions having three cloves stuck in each. Cover each head of Lettuce with slices of fat pork and moisten them with stock broth. Cover the saucepan and let this boil once and then set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly until done. Then drain them on a sieve and sponge off the grease with a nap- kin. Then put them in a saucepan with three spoonfuls of half glaze, and set them in the oven. When glazed serve them with a reduced Espagnole sauce. LETTUCE BRAIZED, GERMAN STYLE. No. 818. Prepare the Lettuce as in No. 817, and when cooked drain them on a napkin and sponge off the grease. Then dish them up and pour over them some Allemande sauce, reduced with cream. 186 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. STUFFED LETTUCE. No. 819. Prepare one dozen heads of Lettuce as in No. 817, and when parboiled immerse them in cold water, then press them in the hands and dry them. Put them on a towel on the table, spread out the leaves of each head and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Add in the middle of each head some forced meat of veal (Godiveau) flavored with cooked fine herbs. Put the Lettuce in shape again, trim them and arrange them in a deep flat saucepan, lined with thin slices of fat pork. Moisten them with veal gravy, then let them boil, after which cover the saucepan and set it in the oven. Sprinkle them with the gravy occasionally, so they will glaze nicely. When cooked dish them up, strain off the gravy, take off the grease, and serve the gravy with them. LETTUCE STUFFED AND FRIED. No. 820. Prepare the Lettuce the same as in No. 819, and when cooked drain them on a sieve, and sponge off the grease with a napkin. Then bread them and dip them in beaten eggs, and then bread them again in fresh bread crumbs. Fry them in hot lard and serve them on a napkin, with a garniture of fried parsley. LETTUCE WITH CREAM. No. 821. Trim off the outer leaves of one dozen heads of Lettuce and wash the heads in cold water several times. Then put them in a saucepan, with boiling water lightly salted, and let them cook for ten minutes on a brisk fire. Then immerse them in cold water, drain them in a colander and press them dry in the hands. Then chop them fine. Put six ounces of butter in a saucepan, and when melted add two spoonfuls of flour, and let it cook to a light brown. Then add the Lettuce, stirring it in well, and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Add in slowly a pint of cream and let it cook for ten minutes. Before serving, garnish it with hard boiled eggs, cut in quarters, and with toasted bread, cut in fancy shapes. LETTUCE, WITH GRAVY. No. 822. Proceed the same as in No. 821, but in place of cream add some veal gravy or a good broth. Garnish with poached eggs or toast. LETTUCE FOR GARNITURE. No. 823. When Lettuce is to be used for garnishing joints or large entries, use the braized or stuffed Lettuce as in Nos. 817, THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 187 818, 819 and 820. When it is used for garnishing small entrees and broiled meats, use Lettuce with cream or gravy, as in Nos. 821 and 822. When it is used as a salad garniture select the inner leaves and steep them in cold water until ready for use. Keep the hearts to place on the top of the salad, or cut them in fine shreds and garnish around the dish, alternating with eggs. LETTUCE SALADS. No. 824. Trim oft* the outer leaves of the Lettuce, wash the heads in cold water, trim the leaves, and then drain them on a salad strainer. Before using, drain them on a napkin, being careful not to press the leaves. Put them in a salad bowl and season with salt, pepper, sweet oil and vinegar. NOTE. Dress the salad only when ready for use. Germans generally add some sliced young onions and a mustard dressing. This is made by mashing the yolk of a hard boiled egg in a salad bowl, diluting it with oil and vinegar, and adding mustard. Then mix it well together and season with salt and pepper. Pour this mixture over the Lettuce, and mix it well with a wooden spoon and fork in a careful manner. Americans, especially in New England, dress the salad with sugar, vinegar, and cream. In the South they use oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, or with a Mayonnaise dressing, and garnished with hard boiled eggs. The French add some fine chopped chervil and tarragon, and occasionally a clove of garlic, chopped fine, or some garlic rubbed on a crust of bread (Chapon). The Spaniards and Mexicans add some fine sliced green peppers, with sliced green onions. The English use a dressing made with the yolks of hard boiled eggs, diluted with oil, vinegar, and the juice of onions or shallots, and seasoned with salt and pepper. For a family dinner dish up the salad plain, with hard boiled eggs separately, or as a garniture. It requires an expert to dress a salad well. When ready for the salad the hostess should dress it, or if one of the company Is noted as a good salad dresser, she should request him to dress it. LETTUCE WITH CONSOMME (CAEBUKE). GRATINATED CRUSTS WITH LETTUCE. No. 825. Trim one dozen heads of Lettuce, wash them well in cold water and then parboil them for ten minutes. Then immerse them in cold Avater and press them dry in the hands. Arrange the leaves nicely and tie them so they will keep their shape. Now prepare a deep, Hat saucepan lined with thin slices of fat pork, some trimmings of veal, four sliced carrots and one sliced onion. Then put the Lettuce in and add a faggot of parsley garnished with one bay leaf and three cloves. Cover it all with thin slices of fat pork and moisten with enough broth to cover it. Set it on the fire to boil. Then cover the saucepan and set it on one side to cook slowly until tender. Then take them out carefully, place them on a clean board, take off the strings and cut them in two or three parts, lengthwise. Put in a deep baking dish some thin slices of toasted bread, then a layer of Lettuce, and continue this way until the dish is full. Season with salt and pepper. Then strain off the 188 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. .gravy that they were cooked iu, and pour it over the Lettuce and toast to cover it. Then set the dish in an oven to cook slowly until nicely browned. Before serving, take off the grease and serve with a soup tureen of consomme. LETTUCE WATER FOR INVALIDS. No. 826. Wash and clean three heads of Lettuce, and soak them in one quart of boiling water for one hour. Then strain it through a napkin. Season with a little sugar, and take a cupful one hour before each meal for several days. It is recommended for those whose stomachs are deranged and also for those afflicted with nervousness. PRESERVED LETTUCE WHOLE. No 827. Select three dozen fresh picked heads of Lettuce and trim off the outer leaves. Wash them well in cold water, and then parboil them for ten minutes in water lightly salted. Then immerse them in cold water and dry them on a napkin. Then arrange them in a flat saucepan and moisten them with enough broth to cover them. Let them cook until tender, and then drain them on a napkin. Cut out the stalks, and then cut the heads of Lettuce in half, lengthwise, laying the tops over in the middle close together, so they will not curl outward. Then put them in square quart tin cans, the same way that you would arrange asparagus. Cover them with water lightly salted, solder on the covers and boil the tin cans in a hot water bath for two hours. PRESERVED LETTUCE, IN CANS. No. 828. Prepare them as endives are prepared. See Article LXXXVII, No. 828. LETTUCE WHEN USED IN VEGETABLE SOUPS. No. 829. Use the green tender leaves and wash them well to keep them green. Then cut them in shreds or with a cutter and put them in boiling water to cook for a few minutes. After this immerse them in cold water, then drain them and put them in soup when ready to serve. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 189 ARTICLK cxvi French LICORICE. Herman. Reylisse . Silshols-B/'/renzuker. No. 830. Licorice is a hardy perennial plant, the root of which abounds with a sweet juice, and is much used in demulcent compo- sitions. It has fleshy, creeping roots, which, when undisturbed, attain great length and penetrate deep into the earth. The roots- are the only part of the plant used, and are used by porter brewers- and confectioners and for medicinal purposes. The sweet, mucilagi- nous juice, which is extracted from the roots by boiling, is much esteemed as an emollient for coughs and colds. CULTURE. No. 831. It is propagated by planting slips of the roots, four or six inches long, that have two or three buds. Plant them in March/ as soon as the ground can be worked, eighteen inches apart in rows that are three feet apart, covering them with three inches of earth. Every year late in autumn, when the sap has gone down and the leaves turned yellow, cut the old stem down with a pruning knife to a level with the ground. At this time the creeping stems are forked up and cut off close to the main stems. They are then preserved in sand for future planting. The roots will be ready for taking up three years after planting. This should be done towards winter, when the sap goes down in the roots. A trench three feet deep should then be dug around the roots, so they can be extracted without injury to them. They are then kept in sand until used. CXVII. LIMA BEANS. Feve Boh>>e. No. 832. The Lima Bean is one of the latest and most tender of garden beans. The stem is about ten feet high, and the leaves are smooth, shiny and narrow, yet comparatively long. The pods are about four inches long and an inch and a quarter broad, being flattened in shape, and containing from three to five beans. They are green and wrinkled when young, and of a yellowish color when 190 HAEDEE'S AMEEICAN COOKEEY. ripe. The pods are tough and parchment-like in all stages of their growth, and are never eaten. The Beans when either green or ripe, are universally esteemed for their peculiar flavor and excellence. If gathered when suitable for use in their green state, and dried in the pods, they can be preserved during the winter. When required for use, they should be shelled, then soaked for a short time in clear water, and cooked the same as green beans. When they are treated in this manner, they will be found to be nearly as tender and well flavored as when freshly plucked from the plants. The Lima Bean seldom perfects its crop in the Northern States, as only a small portion of the pods attain a good size, being destroyed by early frost. CULTUBE. No. 833. Commence planting when the weather is settled and the soil is warm and in good working condition. Procure a num- ber of poles six feet in length and set them out three feet apart each way. Plant five or six Beans in each hill, covering them with one inch of soil and being careful to set each Bean with its germ downward. After they have grown for awhile and before they begin to run, pull up the weakest and leave but three of the most vigorous plants in each hill. As they increase in height they should be tied to the poles with a soft, fibrous material. When they have ascended to the tops of the poles the ends should be pinched off'. The ends of all branches that rise above that height should also be treated in the same way. This prevents them from running into vines and tends to make them blossom earlier and bear sooner and more abundantly. When cultivated near the Sieva, the varieties readily hybridize and the Lima Bean rapidly degenerates. Plants grown in the Southern States are healthy and vigorous and produce large Beans of excellent quality. GEEEN LIMA BEANS. No. 834. This is a sub-variety of the common Lima Bean, differing from it principally, in the pea-green color of the seed. It will remain longer on the plant without becoming hard, and is considered more tender than other kinds. MOTTLED LIMA BEANS. No. 835. This is also a sub-variety of the common Lima Bean. The seeds are of a dull white, or greenish-white color, mottled or clouded with purple. NOTE. For the prepartion of Lima Beans. See Article on Beans. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 191 ARTICLE CXVIII. French LIME TREE, OR LINDEN TREE. German Tilltul. Die Lind. No. 836. The Lime, or Linden Tree, bears a fruit allied to the lemon, but smaller and more intensely sour. It is a handsome tree and is found in all warm climates. It has panicles of light yellow flowers and large cordate leaves. The flowering buds should be picked before the rising of the sun. They should then be peeled and dried and kept in a clean, cool place, free from dust. They are used for tisanes. ARTICLE CXIX. LOVAGE. Angelique afeuille-d'ache. Lieb Ktockel. No. 837. Lovage is a hardy perennial plant having a hollow, branching stem six or seven feet high. It has smooth, deep green, glossy leaves, that somewhat resemble those of celery. The roots are large and fleshy, having a dark-brown color without and being yellowish within. Both the roots and seeds are used. The roots are sliced and dried and are used by confectioners in that state. They are also used in medicine as an aromatic stimulant. CULTURE. No. 838. Lovage requires a deep, rich, moist soil, and should be sown in August, or immediately after ripening. When the young plants have grown three inches, transplant them three feet apart in each direction. When they are well established they will require but little care and will continue for years. ARTICLE CXX. LUPINE. Lupin . Wolfsbohne . No. 839. Lupine is a leguminous plant, having a strong, erect, branching habit. It is not cultivated for food, but the white and 192 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY, .yellow Lupine are grown for their farinaceous seeds. The pods are straight and hairy, about three inches long, and contain five or six large, white, flattened seeds, having a slightly bitter taste. They are said to possess important medicinal qualities. The yellow Lupine, which is a native of Sicily, is a hardy annual plant, resem- bling the white species. They are both grown in some parts of this country, and when in their green state they are cut up and ploughed under the soil as a fertilizer. Plant them in poor, dry soil. ARTICLK French MACE. Herman Mads. Muskafenbluthe. No. 840. Mace is the second coat, or aril, which covers the nut- meg ; a thin and niembranaceous substance, of an oleaginous nature and yellowish color, being in flakes, divided into many ramifications. It has an agreeable aromatic taste, not being as bitter as the nutmeg. It is much used for culinary purposes, in pastry and in distilling liquors, and can be obtained in flakes or ground. NOTE. See Nutmeg Article. ARTICLK CXXII. MADRAS RADISH. Radis (Madras). Retdij (Madras). No. 841. The Madras Radish is generally cultivated for its pods, which are sometimes twelve inches in length. They are solid, crisp, and tender, and when young they are used for pickling, and for salads, being much superior to the common radish. The roots are sometimes eaten whole when they are young and tender, but they soon become fibrous, strongly flavored and unfit for use. When the Madras Radish is cultivated for its pods, sow it in drills that are two feet apart, and thin the plants to nine inches apart in the drills. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 193 ARTICLE CXXIII. French MALLOW CURLED LEAVED. German Mauve. Malve. No. 842. Mallow is an annual plant that was introduced from Europe, and which grows spontaneously in gardens when once cul- tivated. The stems are frequently more than six feet in height. The leaves, which are of a rich green color, are nearly five inches in diameter and are smooth, lobed and beautifully frilled or curled on the borders. No part of the plant is considered suitable for food, but the beautiful leaves are used for garnishing desserts. Sow the seeds about the first of May, covering them with one inch of soil. The plant requires much space. ARTICLK CXXIV. MARANTA, OR ARROW-ROOT PLANT. Arrow-root. Arrow-mehl. No. 843. This is a genus of plants found in tropical America, and some species also in India. They have tuberous roots contain- ing a large amount of starch, and from one species arrow-root is obtained. The Indians are said to employ the roots of this species in extracting the poison of arrows, whence the name. The fecula obtained is called Arrow-Boot. The root of this plant is perennial, tuberous, fleshy, horizontal and scaly, and is a foot or more in length, having numerous long, white fibres. It sends forth several tuberous jointed, curved, white stoles, the points of which some- times rise above the ground and become new plants* Several stems proceed annually from the same root, being branched and slender, and about four inches high. The Arrow-Root plant is a native of the West Indies, where it is largely cultivated; and its cultivation is also carried on in the East Indies, Africa and the Southern States. That from the Bermuda Islands is most esteemed, Jamaica furnishing the next best quality. The plant is propagated early, by cutting off the roots. Arrow-Boot is adulterated with flour from other roots, such as the Curcuma and the Tacca Oceanica from the Sandwich Islands. Potato flour is also used. Arrow- Boot when ground, is a light, white powder, devoid of taste or 13 194 . HABDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. odor. It lias a firm feeling when pressed between the fingers, and produces a faint crackling sound when rubbed. It is a pure starch, corresponding in its chemical properties with that of corn starch or potato starch. When purchased it should be free from any unpleasant flavor, as it is liable to get musty. Keep it in a dry place. PREPARTfON OF ITS FLOUR. No. 844. The flour is prepared in the following manner: The roots are dug up when a year old, then washed and pounded into a pulp, which is thrown into water to separate the amylacteous from the fibrous portion. The fibres are removed with the hands, which leaves the starch suspended in the water, to which it gives a milky color. The milky fluid is strained through a coarse towel, aixUs allowed to stand that the flour may settle. The flour is then washed with fresh water and is dried afterwards in the sun. ITS USE. No. 845. Arrow-Root is nutritious and demulcent, and affords a light and easily digested article of diet for the sick and convalescent. It is peculiarly suited, from its demulcent properties, to those afflicted with complaints of the bowels and diseases of the urinary passages. It is much used as food, for infants after weaning or when the mother's milk is insufficient. It is prepared by dissolv- ing it in hot water with which it forms a pearly gelatinous solution, and if sufficiently thick it forms a jelly-like mass when cool. A tablespoonful will contribute sufficient consistence to a pint of water. It should first be made into a paste with a little cold water and the boiling water should then be added, with brisk agitation. The preparation may be rendered more palatable by adding lemon juice and sugar, or, in extreme sickness, by adding wine and spices. It is usually prepared with milk when taken by children. ARTICLE French MARJORAM. German Murjolaine. Marjoram. No. 846. Marjoram is a perennial aromatic plant, somewhat hardy, but not hardy enough to endure the winter in the North. When the plants are in bloom they are cut and dried and are used THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 195 for flavoring salted meat and venison soup. They are also ground and used in flavoring stuffings, etc. No. 847. Sow the seeds as early as possible and thin out the plants to ten inches apart. It is also propagated by dividing the roots either in spring or autumn. SWEET MARJORAM. No. 848. Sweet Marjoram is always treated as an annual in the Northern States. The plant grows low, having a branching stem and rounded leaves. This variety is said to have come from Portu- gal, and is mostly used for culinary purposes. It is highly aro- matic, and is used in its green and dried state. COMMON MARJORAM. No. 849. This variety is perennial and is more hardy than the Sweet Marjoram. It is used in the same manner as the sweet variety. POT MARJORAM. No. 850. This variety is a native of Sicily. Its leaves are oval and comparatively smooth. It produces small purple flowers in spikes. It is used in the same way as the other varieties are, but is inferior to the Sweet Marjoram. WINTER SWEET MARJORAM. No. 851. This is a perennial variety somewhat hardy and resem- bling the Sweet Marjoram, being next in quality to it. The plants should be cut when just coming into bloom and dried well in the shade. CXXVI. French MARSH MALLOW. German Guimauve. Sammetpappel. No. 852. This is a plant that is common in marshes near the sea shore. The flowers are used for diet drinks (tisanes), and should 196 HAEDEE'S AMEEICAN COOKEEY. be picked with care before the rising of the sun. They should then be dried thoroughly, and kept in a dry, dark place. For Marsh Mallow Syrup see Capillary Syrup, Article XXXI, No. 354. ARTICLE CXXVII. French MELILOT. iierman Me'lilot. MeMilot. No. 853. This is a plant having yellow flowers, of a peculiar odor and flavor, resembling the Tonqua bean. It is put in a faggot when roasting or stewing rabbits or hares, to impart an agreeable flavor. It is also used in dairies to color cheese. ARTICLE: cxxvill. MINT. Menthe. Gcuten Milnze. No. 854. Mint is a hardy perennial aromatic plant, producing, by distillation, a highly odoriferous and pungent essential oil. It- is generally cultivated in gardens, but grows naturally near brooks and in rich, moist soil. It is used in making sauces for flavoring, for medicinal purposes, for flavoring drinks, and by confectioners. The common or plain leaved variety is the best for general use. The Spear -Mint is inferior for culinary purposes, but is prettier for garnishing, on account of the curled foliage. CULTUEE. No. 855. It is propagated best by a division of the roots, which readily establish themselves wherever planted. In cultivating from seed, sow under glass and transplant them when the leaves are formed. MINT SAUCE, AMEEICAN STYLE. No. 856. Pick one handful of green Mint leaves, wash them clean, dry them on a napkin and cut them fine. Put half a pint of THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 197 good wine vinegar and half a pint of water in a bowl, and sweeten it to taste with light brown sugar. Then add the Mint and a little salt and pepper and mix the whole well together. Let it stand for fifteen minutes before using. This sauce is much used in this country and is greatly esteemed with roasted spring lamb. MINT SAUCE, FRENCH STYLE. No. 857. Prepare it the same as in the American style, using warm lamb or beef gravy instead of water. CVXXIX. French MOREL. German Morille. Morchel. No. 858. In its natural state the Morel is found growing in orchards, in damp woods, and in moist pastures. There are several varieties, all of which are edible. It is about four inches in height and is distinguished by its white cylindrical hol- low, and solid smooth stem. Its cap is spherical and hollow, and of a dark brown or gravy color. It adheres to the stem by its base, and is deeply pitted over the entire surface. It is in perfec- tion early in the season, but should not be gathered after a rain or while it is wet with dew. If gathered when dry it may be preserved many months. The Morel is much used in its dry or fresh state, to heighten the flavor of stews and gravies. This mushroom is to be obtained from Italian warehouses and is the best variety in use in its dried state. MOEELS, POULETTE. No. 859. Wash the Morels in tepid water, trim them and then cut the large ones in quarters. Parboil them for five minutes, then immerse them in cold water and afterwards drain them on a napkin. Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, one small onion and a faggot of parsley, garnished, and season them with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Toss them over a brisk fire, then add four spoonfuls of Allemande or Cream sauce, and let them cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Then take out the onion and the faggot, add a piece of butter and the juice of one lemon, and toss the whole over the fire well. Then serve. 198 HABDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. MORELS, SPANISH STYLE. No. 860. Prepare them the same as in No. 859, using Espagnole sauce instead of Allemande or Cream sauce, and finish it by adding a small piece of Anchovie butter. MORELS ON SKIVERS. No. 861. When the Morels are cleaned and parboiled, as in No. 859, cut them in quarters, put them in an earthen bowl, and season them with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Pour some clarified butter over them, and mix them well. Then put them on wooden skivers, dip them in fresh bread crumbs, and broil them on a slow fire. Cut ten slices of bacon in small pieces, fry them nicely, and dish them on a platter with the broiled Morels on top, having put the Morels on silver skivers before serving them. MORELS FRIED. No. 862. When the Morels are cleaned and parboiled, as in No. 859, cut them in halves, put them in a saucepan, moisten them with broth and let them cook until reduced to a light glaze. Then season them with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, take them out of the saucepan, flour them, and then fry them in hot lard. Add to the light glaze, two spoonfuls of mutton gravy, a piece of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and some fine chopped parsley. Pour this sauce over the Morels and then serve. MORELS, WITH GRATINATED CRUST. No. 863. When the Morels are washed and parboiled as in No. 859, cut them in scollops. Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, one onion and a faggot of parsley garnished. Toss them over a brisk fire and sprinkle them with a little flour while tossing them. Then moisten them with w r hite broth, let them cook slowly for fifteen minutes, then take out the onion and faggot of parsley and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Dilute the yolks of four raw eggs in a glass of cream and pour it over the Morels off of the fire, tossing them well together. Then serve them with gratinated crusts, the same as mushrooms. MORELS FOR GARNITURE. No. 864. Prepare them as in Nos. 859 and 860 with Allemande, Espagnole or Cream sauce. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 199 MORELS STUFFED. . No. 865. Wash clean and trim them as in No. 859, parboil them for fifteen minutes, then immerse them in cold water and drain them on a napkin. Chop the trimmings and stems fine and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and two fine chopped shallots. Put the cover on the pan and let them cook slowly until the moist- ure is reduced. Then put them on a plate to get cold and add some cooked forced meat of chicken or veal and some fine chopped pars- ley. Stuff the Morels with this preparation, sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over them, arrange them in a flat saucepan lined with thin slices of fat pork, and put a small piece of butter on each. Moisten them with broth and set them in the oven to cook slowly until nicely browned. Serve them with a reduced Madeira wine sauce, to which add a little fine chopped parsley. ARTICLE CXXX. Froucl. MULLEN, OR MULLEIN. German Molene ou Bouillon blane Wollkrout. No. 866. Mullen is a field plant. Its leaves and flowers have been employed as remedial agents. They have a slight odor and a mucilaginous, bitterish, feeble taste. Mullen leaves are demul- cent and emollient, and are said to possess anodyne properties, which render them useful in pectoral complaints. A strained infu- sion of the flowers is used in mild catarrhs and in diarrhoea. It will be found advantageous to moisten the leaves previous to boil- ing them. Pick the flowers before they expand, dry them in the shade, mixing and turning them occasionally to have them perfectly dry. Keep them in boxes in a cool dry place, and use them in diet drinks (tisanes), as in Article LXXXII. CXXX I. MUSHROOMS. Champignon ou Moufseron. Champignon, or Ertshicamm. No. 867. The Mushroom is one of a large class of cryptogamic plants of the natural order of fungi. The name is sometimes pop- ularly restricted to such species as are used for food. It is a cellu- 200 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. lar plant, having generally a more or less rounded thallus supported upon a stalk, and having seeds upon the under surface or gills. They are numerous, being found in all parts of the world, and are usually of very rapid growth, often springing up and coming to maturity in a single day. Many species are used for food in differ- ent parts of the world, while other species are poisonous. Many varieties abound in the pastures and woods in all the States, and may be gathered wild and enjoyed by those who have not the means of raising them artificially. They are gathered in all the different stages of their growth, and are used boiled, stewed, stuffed or broiled, and when dried are used for flavoring. The current belief is that, while many fungi are virulently poisonous, others, including the common Mushroom, are free from poison, and may be eaten in any quantity. The fear of poison deters many from making any use of this savory and nourishing but treacherous vegetable, and if they are afraid to eat them it is a matter of con- siderable importance to have the real standing of fungi as food stuffs made clear. According to recent investigations the question seems to be, not how to distinguish the poisonous from harmless species, but how to treat Mushrooms of every sort in such a way as to remove or neutralize the poison which they contain, with the pre- caution of using this class of food stuffs at all times with modera- tion. It has been ascertained that repeated washing with cold water removes most of the poison of Mushrooms, and that boiling dissolves out the rest. The water in which Mushrooms are boiled, however, is always poisonous, more so even than raw Mushrooms. Dried Mushrooms have been found to be dangerous for twenty days, and also the water in which such Mushrooms had been boiled. They are not really safe until after four months' drying. There- fore, treat all Mushrooms as poisonous; carefully throw out all the water in which they have been washed; cook them well, and never eat them in large quantities. The fact that all Mushrooms are more or less poisonous should be no bar to their use as food, proper care being taken in the cooking and eating. The detection of poisonous Mushrooms is a matter of deep consideration. The surest method of detecting them, and a precaution that should always be taken, is to put a silver coin or a solid silver spoon in the water in which Mushrooms are cooked. If the silver assumes a bluish or black color it may be assured that one or perhaps all of the Mushrooms are poisonous, and they should be thrown away. CULTURE. No. 868. There can be no doubt but what all of the edible kinds would finally submit to and probably improve by cultivation, though THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 201 as } 7 et but a single species has been generally introduced into the garden. The common Mushroom is the only kind cultivated, and can be grown in cellars, sheds, on shelves in the open air, or in caves free from iron or coal. Beds of the required width and length are made of fermenting horse manure, at a temperature of about seventy degrees, being eighteen inches deep. Plant the broken pieces of spawn in this bed, six inches apart, covering the whole with two inches of light soil, and protecting it from cold or severe rains. The Mushrooms will appear in about six weeks. Irrigate only when the bed is quite dry, with soft or lukewarm water. The best of all situations, when available, in which to grow Mushrooms, are underground caves, such as supply the Paris markets with such vast quantities. THE COMMON MUSHROOM. No. 869. When the common Mushroom first appears it has a white color, is of a roundish button-like form, and apparently rests on the surface of the ground. When fully developed the stem is solid and two inches in height, and its cap measures from one to four inches in diameter, changing to a brownish color when old and becoming tough and fleshy. It is readily distinguished when of medium size, by its fine pink or flesh-colored gills and pleasant odor. When old, the gills become of a chocolate color and it is then liable to be confounded with other kinds of a dubious quality. However, the species which resemble it most is slimy to the touch and is devoid of its fine odor,, having rather a disagreeable smell. The noxious kinds always grow in woods or on the margin of woods, while the wholesome Mushroom springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should be gathered only in such places when young and tender. The Mushroom produces no real seed, but instead of it has a white fibrous substance in broken threads, called spawn, which is pre- served in horse manure, being pressed in the shape of bricks. It will preserve its vitality for years when prepared in this manner. AGARICUS COMATUS MUSHROOM. No. 870. This is an excellent variety that is found in abundance in stumps of trees in pastures, appearing in spring and autumn. It is much used in catsup, but should only be used when young. SWEET OR DELICIOUS MUSHROOM. No. 871. This is a variety of medium size, having a yellowish color ringed with orange on the top. It somewhat resembles a del- eterious species, but is readily distinguished from it, as when it is 202 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. When thor- oughly cooked, take out the faggot, and dish them up with braised lettuce around the dish. GREEN PEAS FOR GARNITURE. No. 1087. When the Peas are. cooked, as in No. 1082, immerse them in cold water, then drain them and set them aside, covering them with a napkin until ready to use. When ready to use them, put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter, and season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar. Toss them over the fire until thoroughly warmed, and when serving add some fine chopped parsley. NOTE. Cream, Allemande, or Espagnole sauce may be added if desired. PUREE OF GREEN PEAS, FOR GARNITURE. No. 1088. Cook two pounds of Green Peas as in No. 1082. When cooked drain them and put them into a saucepan with four spoonfuls of Cream sauce; season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Mix them well together and rub them through a fine sieve. Put the puree back into the saucepan to keep warm and before serving add a piece of Butter. NOTE. When the puree is rubbed through a fine sieve, put it in a flat saucepan, add half a pint of cream, and set the pan on a brisk fire to reduce the puree to its proper consistency. Before serving, add a piece of butter. This puree will be found more succulent than the foregoing. SOUP PUREE OF GREEN PEAS. No. 1089. Put into a saucepan two gallons of water with a little salt, and when it boils add five pounds of fresh Peas, a faggot of parsley garnished with a few green onions, and a head of lettuce. As soon as the Peas are tender, remove the faggot, drain them and rub them through a fine sieve. Put the puree in a saucepan and add three quarts of lightly thickened chicken or veal broth. Set it on the fire and stir it until it boils; then let it boil slowly for twenty minutes and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Before serving add half a pound of butter, divided into small pieces, and stir it well until the butter is melted. Serve small fried bread crumbs with it. 252 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. SOUP PUREE OF GREEN PEAS, ST. GERMAIN. No. 1090. Cook the Peas .as in No. 1089. When tender drain them, take out the faggot, put the peas back into the saucepan and add two quarts of Cream sauce, diluted with chicken broth to its consistency. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Rub it through a fine sieve, put it back into the saucepan and keep it warm in a hot water bath. Before serving add a piece of butter and stir it well until the butter is melted. This soup should have a bright, green color (if necessary use green color of spinach. Serve with small balls of forced meat of chicken, poached in broth. NOTE. In making this soup two and a half pounds of Peas, and two and a half pounds of green asparagus tops maybe used. SOUP PUREE OF SPLIT PEAS. No. 1091. Carefully sort three pounds of yellow dried Peas, wash them well, let them soak for five hours in cold water, and then drain them. Put them into a saucepan with three quarts of cold water, or use half water and half broth. Add a faggot of parsley garnished with one leek and some celery, two onions with four cloves in each, two carrots, and a piece of parboiled salt pork, or bacon. Cover the saucepan, let them cook slowly until thoroughly done, and then take out the faggot, carrots, onions, and pork or bacon. Add some plain broth to give the puree its proper con- sistency, and season with salt and pepper. Then rub it through a line sieve and put it back in the saucepan, stirring it well until it boils. Then let it simmer slowly for half an hour and add a piece of butter. Before serving, cut the pork or bacon in small pieces, fry them crisp, drain them, mix some small fried bread crumbs with them, and put them in the soup, or serve them on a plate, as may be desired. SOUP PUREE OF SPLIT PEAS, WITH JULIENNE SOUP, CONDE. No. 1092. This soup is a puree of split Peas, into which half of its quantity of Julienne soup is added. SOUP PUREE OF DRIED GREEN PEAS, GERMAN STYLE. No. 1093. Pick and wash four pounds of the Peas, put them into a saucepan and boil them in three quarts of water or broth. Garnish with a faggot of vegetables tied together, season with salt, and let them cook glowly until tender. Then remove the faggot, and add broth enough to bring the soup to its proper consistency. Rub THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 253 it through a fine sieve, return it to the saucepan, and set it on the fire to boil for twenty minutes, then skim it well and add a piece of butter and two handfuls of boiled rice. A ham-bone or piece of pork may be cooked with the soup if desired. PKESEBVED GREEN PEAS. No. 1094. Have the Peas freshly plucked and shelled, and uniform in size. Put them into boiling water, lightly salted, and when they are three-quarters cooked, drain them. Then dry them on a towel, and when they are cold, put them into quart tin cans. Cover the Peas in the cans with cold boiled water, adding to each can a little salt and a pinch of carbonate of soda. Cover the cans, hermetically, and boil them in a hot water bath for two hours. ARTICLE CLIII. Froi:c!i PENNYROYAL. German Pouliot. P,,ld. No. 1095. Pennyroyal possesses a warm, pungent, aromatic taste, and is used exclusively for medical purposes. An infusion of the leaves is stimulating, sudorific, tonic and beneficial in colds and chills. It is a small, branching, annual plant, common to gravelly localities and abounding towards autumn in dry fields, where crops, of wheat or rye have been recently harvested. ARTICLK CLIV. PEPPER. Poivre et Pimml. Pfeffer. No. 1096. There are many varieties of Pepper, both annual and perennial, the latter being of a shrubby or woody character, and as it is a tropical plant, it is tender. The annual varieties can be grown in the Middle and Southern States successfully. The annual, or common garden Pepper, is a native of India. Pepper is used more than any other spice. There are three kinds in use the White, Black, and Red. It facilitates digestion and 254 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. corrects flatulency. In warm countries it is used in great quantities, but for good cooking it should be used with moderation, and persons of nervous debility should abstain from using any. For persons living on plain food, and having out-of-door work, it imparts vitality, and is very beneficial. There are also a large variety of Peppers eaten and prepared in their^ green state, and put up like pickles. The large Bell Peppers are stuffed and used as a vegetable, and are also excellent for pickling, and when sliced are much esteemed in salads, in connection with tomatoes and cucumbers. CULTURE. No. 1097. Sow in hot beds early in April, and transplant to the open ground when the weather is favorable. They should be planted in warm, mellow soil, in rows eighteen inches apart, or they may be sown in the open ground, when danger of frost is past, and the soil is warm and the weather settled. CHILI. No. 1098. This variety has sharply conical pods of a brilliant scarlet color, which are exceeding^ pungent when ripe. They are principally used in making Pepper sauce. The plants should be started early in hot beds. LONG RED CAYENNE. No. 1099. This kind has a long, slim, pointed pod, and when ripe, is of a bright red color. The. flavor is strong and pungent. LARGE SQUASH. No. 1100. The fruit is large, flat and tomato-shaped, more or less ribbed, with a smooth and glossy skin. The flesh is mild, thick-meated and pleasant to the taste, although it possesses more pungency than many of the other varieties. GOLDEN DAWN. No. 1101. This kind resembles the Large Bell in size and shape, and has a beautiful golden yellow color. The flavor is pleasant and delicate. LARGE BELL. No. 1102. A large sort of square form, tapering to a point. It is an early variety, less pungent than most kinds, and is thick and hard. It is suitable for tilling with cabbage, etc. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 255 SWEET MOUNTAIN. No. 1103. This is similar to the Bell Pepper in shape and color, but is large and milder in flavor. CKANBEEBY. No. 1104. The fruit resembles the cranberry in appearance, and is a good variety for pickling. GROSSUM. No. 1105. A large French variety of irregular shape, which is good for mangoes. CHERRY, OR LITTLE GEM. No. 1106. The fruit or berries are of a globular form, about the size of a large red currant, and of a brilliant scarlet hue. They are produced in the greatest profusion, and will be found useful in the preparation of pepper sauces, and when pickled as soon as plucked. To prepare them for use in their dry state, it is only necessary to cut the plants close to the roots when the fruit is ripe. String the berries and hang them up in a warm, dry room. They will retain their piquancy for years. The plant is so beautiful that when grown in pots it will always prove ornamental; the glossy, coral red of the numerous pods presenting a fine contrast to the deep green foliage surrounding them. CHILI PEPPERS PRESERVED IN VINEGAR. No. 1107. Select small Chili Peppers, all of the same size, cut the ends and put the Peppers into pint bottles. Fill them to cover with wine vinegar, cork the bottles tightly, and in six weeks the Peppers will be ready for use. i CHILI PEPPER VINEGAR. No. 1108. Put into a demijohn a quarter of an ounce of dried marigolds, one clove of garlic, three shallots, a few grains of pepper, four cloves, and one and a half pounds of Chili Peppers, from which cut off the ends. Then add one gallon of wine vinegar and cork the demijohn tightly. Six weeks after strain the vinegar through a filter and put it into bottles. 256 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. PEPPER VINEGAR. No. 1109. Out one dozen bell Peppers and half a dozen long green Peppers in slices, and put them in a jar with half a dozen pepper-corns. Boil six pints of vinegar, to which add two ounces of sugar, and as soon as it boils pour it over the Peppers. When it is cool cover the pot and set it away for two weeks; then strain the vinegar through a filter, put it in bottles and cork them tightly. PRESERVED PICKLED BELL PEPPERS. No. 1110. Take one hundred fresh green pods, slice them down on one side, cut off the stems, take out the seeds, and put them in a small barrel, or earthen jar. Cover them with cold brine. Ten hours after this drain off the brine, add the same quantity of fresh brine, and let it stand in a cool place. The fol- lowing day drain them on a towel for half an hour, and then put them into glass jars. Boil the quantity of wine vinegar required to cover them, and when the vinegar is cold pour it over the Peppers and cover them tight. Six weeks after being put into the jars they will be ready for use. They are much esteemed by epicures. PRESERVED STUFFED PICKLED BELL PEPPERS. No. 1111. Cut the stems from one hundred Bell Peppers, then slice the tops without detaching them, scoop out the seeds, and put them in a brine of the same kind as in No. 1110, then drain them. Cut the white part of three heads of cabbage into small, fine shreds, parboil them for five minutes, then immerse them in cold water, and drain them dry. Then season with a little salt. Stuff the Peppers with the cabbage, covering it with the undetached slices of the Peppers. Arrange them in jars and pour over them, to cover, some cold boiled vinegar. Cover them tightly, and in two months they will be ready for use. PICKLED STUFFED BELL PEPPERS, SHARON STYLE. No. 1112. Prepare the Peppers in the same manner as in No. 1111. Cut the tender parts of two hea'ds of cabbage into fine shreds, parboil them for five minutes and drain them in a colander. Then put the cabbage in an earthen bowl, and add to it four ounces of white mustard seed, two ounces of celery seed, and four soup- spoonfuls of grated horse-radish. Season with a little salt, and mix the whole well together. Stuff the Peppers with this preparation and in the center of each place a small onion or a pickle. Tie the THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 257 cover on with a string, arrange them nicely in jars, and pour over them cold boiled vinegar to cover them. Hermetically seal the jars. HOW TO MAKE BED PEPPER. No. 1113. The pods of the cherry Peppers will furnish a quality of Cayenne Pepper superior to that ordinarily sold. The larger and milder kinds are powdered in the same manner and make a wholesome and pleasant quality of Pepper, sufficiently pungent for ordinary use. BROILED BELL PEPPERS. No. 1114. Dip the Peppers in boiling water and then peel them. Broil them on a slow fire and serve them on toast, with a little melted butter, into which add a little fine chopped parsley. STUFFED BELL PEPPERS, AMERICAN STYLE. No. 1115. Select one dozen nicely shaped Bell Peppers, slice off the tops and scoop out the seeds. Chop two onions finely and put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry them lightly and then add a handful of fine chopped mushrooms. Cover the sauce- pan, and when the moisture is reduced add four spoonfuls of reduced Allemande sauce, a handful of fresh bread crumbs, and season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. Mix them well together, then take the saucepan off of the fire and add the yolks of two raw eggs and some finely chopped parsley, and stir them well together. Stuff the Peppers and arrange them in a buttered baking pan. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over them, put a piece of butter on eac.h one, then bake them in a moderate oven, and when nicely browned serve them on a dish with a teaspoonful of veal gravy over each one. STUFFED BELL PEPPERS, FRENCH STYLE. No. 1116. Prepare the Peppers as in No. 1115, then prepare a forced-meat of veal (Godiveau), to which add some cooked fine herbs. Cover each with a thin slice of fat pork, and then arrange them on a flat saucepan. Moisten them with veal gravy, then cover them with a buttered paper arid bake them slowly until they are nicely glazed. Dish them up with a reduced Espagnole sauce. STUFFED BELL PEPPERS, BRAZILIAN STYLE. No. 1117. Prepare one dozen Peppers as in No. 1115. Chop one onion finely and put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter. 17 258 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. Put on the cover and let it simmer. When the onion is half cooked add half its quantity of finely chopped mushrooms and the same quantity of green Peppers. Let this simmer until the moisture is reduced. Then add four spoonfuls of Allemande sauce and a handful of fresh bread crumbs. Season with salt and nutmeg, and add some finely chopped parsley and a small pinch of garlic. Mix them well together while adding the yolks of two raw eggs. Then stuff the Peppers, covering each one with a thin slice of fat pork . Arrange them in a buttered flat sauce pan, bake them in a moderate oven and serve them with a brown Italian sauce. GREEN PEPPERS, FOR GARNITURE. No. 1118. For large garnitures the stuffed Peppers described in Nos. 1115, 1116 and 1117, are used, alternated with stuffed tomatoes or mushrooms. For boiled meats use them as in No. 1114. PEPPERS FOR RELISHES. N T o. 1119. Trim the stems off, and if the Peppers are large cut them in four or six pieces. Remove the seeds and then serve them on a relish dish, garnished with radishes. When pickled Peppers are used, first dry them in a napkin and then slice them, adding a little oil, vinegar and salt. The large bell Peppers are broiled first, then peeled and sliced and seasoned with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt. TO MAKE WHITE PEPPER. No. 1120. Soak some pepper-corns in cold water until the skin is tender, then peel and dry them and grind them in a coffee mill. ARTICLE CLV. PEPPERMINT. Menth Poivree. Pfetfcrmunze. No. 1121. Peppermint is a hardy perennial plant introduced into this country from Europe. It grows naturally and abundantly along the banks of small streams and in rich wet localities. When once established, it spreads rapidly, and will remain for a long period. The stems are smooth, erect, four-sided, and from two to THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 259 three feet in height. The leaves have an agreeable odor and a peculiarly warm pleasant flavor. The plant is principally used for distillation, being cultivated for this purpose, and will bear from four to five years by proper attention. The best quality of oil is produced during the first year. CLVI. French PE TSAI. German C'houx Pitsai. Chinesichen Kohl. No. 1122. This is an annual plant, a native of China. The leaves are of an oval form, rounded at the ends, somewhat blistered on the surface, and at the center are collected into a long and rather compact tuft or head. The plant, when well grown and ready for use, resembles a head of Cos lettuce, and will weigh six or seven pounds. It is used like common cabbage, being sweet, mildly flavored, and easy to digest. The young plants are also boiled like spinach. ARTICLK CLVI I. PICKLES. Cornichon. Essiggurken- No. 1123 Small cucumbers are best for pickling, and for this purpose they must be plucked young, when they attain the proper size. The fruit should not be permitted to ripen on the vines, for if allowed to do so the plants become much less productive. See Pickled Cucumbers, Nos. 641 and 642. MIXED PICKLES. No. 1124. Are composed of young cucumbers, cauliflower, peppers, string beans and onions. The mode of pickling them has been described. When ready for pickling put them into glass, jars with a few juniper berries. Dilute some mustard flour with vinegar, season it with a pinch of red pepper and pour it over them, to cover. Then seal the jar hermetically. 260 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. CHOW CHOW (HOME MADE). No. 1125. Select five dozen small cucumbers, of from one to one and a half inches in length; four dozen small, white peeled onions, half a dozen small green peppers, and the flower buds of two tender cauliflowers, separated into small pieces. Put them into a strong brine for two days, then drain them in a colander and pour luke- warm water over them to rinse them. Parboil the onions for five minutes, then immerse them in cold water, and when refreshed drain them also into the colander. When dry, put the oDions, cucumbers, peppers and cauliflowers in a copper basin. Dilute in & pint of lukewarm water eight ounces of mustard flour, to which :add a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper and three ounces of tumeric. To iliis add enough of either cider or wine vinegar to cover the vegetables. Then set them on the fire and let them simmer until tender (if desired a little sugar may be added while cooking). When tender take them off of the fire, put them in an earthen bowl, and Avhen they are cold put them in wide-mouthed bottles and cork tightly. ARTICLE CLVIII. French PICRIDIUM. German Picridium. Picridium. No. 1126. A hardy biennial plant, from the southern part of Europe. The stem is eighteen inches high, and the leaves about eight inches long, irregular in form and generally broad at the ends, heart-shaped and clasping at the base. The leaves have a pleasant agreeable odor, and while young and tender are mixed with salads. Sow the seed in May in drills a foot apart and half an inch in depth. The plants, when allowed to run to seed, produce but little foliage. Nip off' the flowering shoot as soon as it makes its appearance. ARTICLE CLIX. POKE, OR PIGEON BERRY. Sachet. Poke. No. 1127. A hard} 7 , herbaceous perennial plant, common by the roadside in waste places, and springing up spontaneously on THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 261 newly burned pine lands. It has a branching, purplish stem, and large oval-pointed entire leaves. The fruit consists of a flat, purple, juicy berry, which is sometimes used as a purple dye. The annual phytolacca is less vigorous and stocky. Sow the seeds in April, in drills, fifteen inches apart. The young shoots . are boiled and served the same as sea kale. In taste it is similar to asparagus. The roots are used for medicinal purposes, and when taken internally act as a violent emetic. POKE STALKS, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. No. 1128. When the stalks are two inches high, and show only a tuft of leaves at the top, gather them. (They are unfit for use when larger or older.) Scrape the stalks and put them in cold, acidulated water. Tie them in bundles (the same as asparagus), put them in a saucepan of boiling water, and let them cook until tender. Serve them on a napkin with Butter or Hollandaise sauce, separate. CLX. French POPPY. German Pavot. Mohnsamen. No. 1129. A hardy annual plant, growing naturally in various parts of this country.. It is cultivated for its seeds, which give an oil of very agreeable flavor, that is used for domestic purposes (in place of olive oil), by druggists and for fine art painting. The seeds are also used for bird food, and for this purpose are known as marrow seed. CULTUEE. No. 1130. Sow the seeds in April or May, in rows two feet apart. It is cultivated easily and can be grown successfully in the Middle or Southern States. * CLXI. PORTUGAL CABBAGE. Choux Portugais. Portugal Kohl. No. 1131. A variety of Cabbage quite distinct from the common head sorts. The stalk is short and thick; the outer leaves are large, 262 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. roundish, of a dark bluish-green color, wrinkled on the surface and slightly undulating on the borders. The midrib of the leaf is large, thick, nearly white, and branches into veins. It forms a loose head and when full grown is nearly two feet high. Different parts of the Cabbage are used for culinary purposes. The ribs of the outer and large leaves, when boiled, somewhat resemble the sea-kale, both in texture and flavor. The heart, or middle, of the plant is, however, the best for use, as it is delicate and agreeably flavored, being without any of the coarseness often found in the common Cabbage. It is cultivated in the same manner as the common Cabbage. See Cabbage, Article XXX. ARTICLE; CLXii. French POTATOES. German Pomme de terre. Kartoffeln, No. 1132. The Potato is an esculent and farinaceous plant, and a native of South America. In its wild, natural state, the tuber rarely exceeds an inch in diameter, and is comparativelv unpalatable, but owing to cultivation they have greatly increased both in size and variety. There are over two hundred varieties, some of which are far superior to others, much depending on the culture and the soil in which they are grown. They are considered the most impor- tant of all the esculent roots, and a valuable article of human subsist- ence. The Potato is a healthful and nourishing vegetable, being agreeable to most all constitutions. It can be obtained throughout the year, and may be prepared without much trouble. The Potato is also used for other preparations. The Potato flour (fecula) is used by invalids and confectioners, and is mixed into the prepara- tions of the common sorts of chocolate.. The Potato blossom is used in making paint, and the leaves when dried are used by tobac- conists. * CULTURE. No. 1133. The soil best suited for the Potato is of the drier and lighter description; pasture land or new land with the turf freshly turned, producing the most abundant as well as the most certain crop. When grown in land of a stiff clayish texture, or in wet soils, they are not only extremely liable to disease, but the quality is also very inferior. If the soil is good but little manure will be required. In highly enriched soil the plants appear to be more liable to dis- THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 263 ease than when grown in soil that is naturally good. The best fertilizers are those of a dry or absorbent nature, such as plaster lime, superphosphate of lime, and bone dust. For wet soil these are particularly beneficial, as they not only promote growth, but prevent disease. The Potato is propagated from tubers, which are either divided into sets, or planted entire. Whichever practice may be adopted, experience has proven that plants from well ripened tubers are not only more healthful and more productive, but actually come to perfection earlier than those produced from immature sets. Potatoes are usually planted either in hills or ridges, the former method being the most common in this country. If planted in hills they should be made three feet apart, on light warm soil. They require covering nearly four inches deep, but in cold, wet situations two and a half inches will be sufficient. Cultivation should be commenced as soon as the young shoots are fairly above the surface, and as the season advances gather the earth gradually about the hills or long drills, adding a little at each successive hoeing for the support of the growing plants, and to encourage the development of the rich roots, for it is at the extremity of the roots that the tubers are found. After the appearance of the blossoms cultivation should be discontinued, and no further attention will be required until the time for harvesting. The season of maturity of the earlier sorts will be indicated by the decay of the plants. The later sorts will continue their growth until checked by frost, pre- vious to which time they will not be ready for harvesting. New Potatoes may be had in the Southern States and in California in February and March, and in the Northern States as early as May or June, when the weather is practicable. The table should be supplied from day to day directly from the field or garden, as the tubers rapidly deteriorate after being taken from the ground, especially if exposed to a warm, light atmosphere, or when kept in a warm, dry cellar. In the preservation of potatoes it is of the first importance that they be excluded from light (if this is neglected they become injured). Fermentation is also an im- portant evil to be guarded against, as it changes the whole substance of the Potato. Of the many old and new varieties that claim public favor the following are selected : EAELY MAYFLOWER. No. 1134. Ripens very early, and in quality is claimed to be equal to the Snowflake. It is, in fact, a cross between the Snow- flake and Peachblow. The tubers are of medium size and run very uniform, being slightly flattened, oval shaped, and of a light lemon color. The skin is well covered with very fine netting, and has 264 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. very few eyes. The flesh is white and solid. It cooks evenly and thoroughly, without falling to pieces, and has no hard core, so com- mon to other sorts. WALL'S ORANGE. No. 1135. Unsurpassed as a table variety. Its color is very distinct, being of a decided orange hue, from which it derives its name. It is unequaled in quality and productiveness, and one of the strongest growers. JUMBO. No. 1136. This is one of the largest growing Potatoes in cultiva- tion, being at least one-third larger than the Peerless. It seems to be entirely free from rot and is one of the very best keepers. The tubers are nearly round, the skin white, the eyes small and sunken and the flesh white and of excellent flavor. Either baked or boiled they are dry and mealy. CHAMPION OF AMERICA. No. 1137. The tubers are flesh-colored and the eyes carmine, small and even with the surface. It grows to an immense size on strong ground, producing tubers as heavy as three pounds in weight. It is a tremendous yielder, one of the best of keepers, and is not to be excelled for cooking purposes. ROCHESTER FAVORITE. No. 1138. A late variety that is white, oval-oblong and very uniform in size. An immense yielder and a handsome variety, excellent for table use. SAINT PATRICK. No. 1139. A handsome, smooth and regular variety, with very few and shallow eyes. A large yielder and of the best quality; excellent either baked or broiled being dry and mealy. BEAUTY OF HEBRON. No. 1140. One of the best early sorts with white skin and flesh. A good keeper, excellent for table use, either baked or boiled. EARLY ROSE. No. 1141. The leading variety for earliness, quality and pro- ductiveness. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 265 WHITE EOSE. No. 1142. A second early variety of medium size, very uniform and finely formed, with white skin slightly russeted. LATE EOSE. No. 1143. The best of the late varieties. PEEELESS. No. 1144. A favorite variety for general use. SNOWFLAKE. No. 1145. A variety of medium earliness and unsurpassed for mealiness and delicacy of flavor. EAELY TELEPHONE. No. 1146. One of the best yielders, producing from one planted tuber as many as thirty or forty of good quality. VEEMONT CHAMPION. No. 1147. Grows to an immense size; of fine shape and a good yielder. PEACH BLOW. No. 1148. This variety is well known, as it is planted in immense quantities all over the country. It is very productive and ripens about the same time as the Burbank. The tubers are of medium size, oval-oblong, and very handsomely formed. A good keeper, and one of the very best for transportation. MAMMOTH PEAEL. No. 1149. The skin is white, the tubers medium in size, and the eyes are quite even with the surface. An excellent variety for table use, being exceedingly floury and well flavored. EAELY GEM. No. 1150. One of "[the best early Potatoes, of medium size, oval- oblong in form and very smooth. The eyes are shallow and few in "266 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. number. It cooks well and has white and exceedingly mealy flesh. CARTER. No. 1151. A medium sized, round, flattened white Potato, and one of the finest varieties, with numerous deeply sunk eyes. The flesh is white, remarkably dry, farinaceous and well-flavored. BUCKEYE. No. 1152. A handsome round Potato, with a little bright pink at the bottom of the eyes. It is grown to a considerable extent in the Western States. It cooks dry and light, and is well flavored when grown for early use. When grown for a late crop, in rich ground, many of the tubers are liable to be hollow in consequence of their rapid growth, thus impairing their value for table use. CALIFORNIA RED. No. 1153. A bright red Potato, having tubers that vary in form from long to nearly round. One of the most productive of all the varieties, but its liability to disease accounts for it not being gen- erally cultivated. BOILED POTATOES. No. 1154. Wash the Potatoes in cold water and remove all the small particles attached to them. Then put them into a saucepan with water to cover, add a little salt, put on the cover and set them on a brisk fire to bring them to a boil. Then set them on the side of the fire to let them boil moderately. As soon as they are done drain off the water, replace the cover tightly and set the Potatoes on the stove again for five minutes to dry them. If the Potatoes are good the flesh will be dry, white and mealy. Serve them in a napkin. NOTE. Do not let Potatoes boil too quick, nor let them remain in the water after they have been boiled. BOILED PEELED POTATOES. No. 1155. Peel the Potatoes and wash them in cold water (have them as near alike in size as possible). Put them into a saucepan, three-quarters full of cold water, add a little salt, put on the cover and boil them as in No. 1154. When done drain off the water and cover the Potatoes with a napkin. Then put on the cover, set them back on the stove, and when dried serve them in a napkin or with melted butter. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 267 BOILED NEW POTATOES. No. 1156. : New Potatoes need not be peeled. Wash them in cold water, then rub them with a coarse towel and the skin will come off. Put them into a saucepan three-quarters full of cold water, add a little salt and boil them as in No. -1154. When done drain them and serve with melted butter or Cream sauce over them. BOILED POTATOES, GERMAN STYLE. No. 1157. Boil two dozen peeled Potatoes, and when they are done dish them up with the following preparation over them: Put into a frying pan two ounces of butter and one finely chopped onion. Fry the onion to a light brown color and add a little fresh bread crumbs. Toss this over a brisk fire, and when browned pour it over the Potatoes. STEAMED POTATOES. No. 1158. Steamed Potatoes are preferred by some to boiled Potatoes, and those that are not of the best quality will be found better when steamed than boiled. Have a small boiler three-quarters full of water. When the water boils set on top of this boiler an- other one with perforated holes in the bottom, and into this put the Potatoes, adding a little salt to them. Cover them tightly with a perforated cover. When the steam comes through freely the Pota- toes will be done. Serve them in the same way as boiled Potatoes. Where vegetables are cooked by steam power, perforated baskets are made to fit the boilers, and in this case the faucets must be left open so that no water can accumulate in the boiler. STEWED POTATOES, AMERICAN STYLE. No. 1159. Take one dozen boiled Potatoes and peel them (when of medium size cut them in halves, and when large cut them into quarters). Then slice them in pieces all alike a quarter of an inch thick, and put them into a saucepan with half a cup of hot milk and a small piece of butter, and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Let them simmer until the milk is nearly reduced, then add four spoonfuls of Butter sauce and let them conk about four minutes longer. Then add a piece of butter, some finely chopped parsley, and toss them well together off of the fire until the butter is melted. STEWED POTATOES, MAITEE D' HOTEL. No. 1160. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1159. Then put them into a saucepan with a cup full of white broth and set it 268 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. on a brisk lire. Season with salt and pepper, and when the broth is nearly reduced add four ounces of butter, some finely chopped parsley and the juice of one lemon. Toss them well together until the butter is melted, and serve. STEWED POTATOES, EPICUREAN STYLE. No. 1161. Take two dozen small, new Potatoes, cut them in slices a quarter of an inch thick, put them into a flat saucepan and moisten them with broth to cover. Season with salt and pepper, put the cover on the saucepan and set it on a brisk fire. When the broth is nearly reduced the Potatoes should be cooked. Then add a piece of butter, some finely chopped parsley, and the juice of one lemon. Toss them well together off of the fire until the butter is melted, and then serve. When old potatoes are used, cut them first in halves, and then into slices of an equal size. BAKED STEWED POTATOES, WITH CREAM, CHAD WICK STYLE. No. 1162. Boil one dozen new Potatoes, cut them into pieces a quarter of an inch long and an eighth of an inch thick. Put them into a saucepan with two spoonfuls of cream, and season them with salt, a pinch of red pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. When the cream is reduced, add four spoonfuls of Cream sauce and toss them well together. Then put them into a buttered baking dish and bake them in an oven until nicely browned. Wipe the border of the dish in which the Potatoes have been baked and serve them on a dish with a napkin. STEWED POTATOES, BRETONNE STYLE. No. 1163. Put into a saucepan two finely sliced onions, with a piece of butter, and fry them lightly. Then add two soup-spoonfuls of flour, and let them cook for five minutes while stirring them with a wooden spoon. Then add in slowly, half a pint of broth and a soup-spoonful of wine vinegar. Let this simmer slowly until the onions are well cooked, then add one and a half dozen of sliced and boiled new Potatoes. Season with salt and pepper, and when thor- oughly warmed serve them. STEWED POTATOES, HANOVERIAN STYLE. No. 1164. Pare four dozen small new Potatoes, put them into a saucepan and moisten them with broth to cover. Boil them on a brisk fire, and when cooked add four ounces of butter, a little salt, THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 269 and some finely chopped parsley. Toss them well together off of the fire until the butter is melted, and serve. STEWED POTATOES, WITH MUSTAED SAUCE. No. 1165. Cut into small pieces four ounces of raw ham, and put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry it lightly, and add two soup-spoonfuls of flour. Let it cook for five minutes while stirring it with a wooden spoon. Dilute this with broth enough to make a light sauce, and season with salt and pepper. Then put with this, two spoonfuls of wine vinegar, a faggot of parsley, gar- nished with a sprig of thyme and one bay leaf. Let it boil slowly for twenty minutes, then skim it clear, and take out the faggot. Then add two soup-spoonfuls of French mustard, and when well mixed add one dozen cold boiled sliced Potatoes, and when thor- oughly warmed, serve. STEWED POTATOES, WITH BACON. No. 1166. Put into a saucepan a quarter of a pound of bacon cut into slices about an inch long. Fry it lightly. Then add to it two soup-spoonfuls of flour and cook it to a light brown while stirring it with a wooden spoon. Dilute this with half a pint of broth, and when it boils add one dozen sliced Potatoes and a faggot of parsley garnished with a sprig of thyme and one bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper and let it simmer slowly for twenty minutes, when the Potatoes must be cooked. Take out the faggot and serve. HASHED POTATOES, WITH CREAM, No. 1167. Hashed Potatoes are not chopped; they are boiled Potatoes, thinly sliced and then cut into small squares. Cut half a dozen boiled Potatoes as above and put them into a saucepan with a cup of cream. Set them on a brisk fire and when the moist- ure is half reduced, season with salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg (if desired) and a piece of butter. Toss them well together off of the fire until the butter is melted. When serving sprinkle a little finely chopped parsley over them. NOTE. A spoonful of Cream sauce may be added. If this is done, moisten with less cream in the first place. HASHED POTATOES, BROWNED. No. 1168. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1167, moisten them with two spoonfuls of cream and season with salt and pepper. When the moisture is nearly reduced add a piece of butter and a spoonful 270 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. of Cream sauce. Mix them well together. Put into an omelet pan a small piece of butter, and when melted add the Potatoes, letting them brown slowly. Gather the Potatoes and shape them nicely in the pan like an omelet. Then turn them on to a dish and serve. BAKED HASHED POTATOES, WITH CREAM. No. 1169. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1167, and when the cream is nearly reduced, add two spoonfuls of Cream sauce and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Toss them well together, put them into a buttered baking dish, sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over them and put a piece of butter on top. Wipe off the borders and place them in a;i oven to bake to a nice brown. BAKED POTATOES WITH SALT HERRINGS, BERLIN STYLE. No. 1170. Boil one dozen peeled Potatoes, cut them in slices and season with salt. Then select three fine pickled herrings, wash, skin and bone them. Then cut them into scollops and soak them in milk. Slice two white onions finely, and put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry them slowly, not letting them get browned, and then add two soup-spoonfuls of flour. Let it cook a few min- utes while stirring it, and dilute it with cream or boiled milk, so as to have a thick sauce. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add a few drops of meat glaze, and cook it slowly for twenty minutes. Then rub it through a fine sieve. Butter a deep baking dish, put a layer of the sliced Potatoes in it. Cover them with the sauce and add a layer of the scolloped herring. Alternate thus until the dish is full, and have the top layer of Potatoes. Cover them with the sauce, and over this sprinkle some fresh bread crumbs, adding some small pieces of butter over the top. Wipe off the borders and bake it slowly for twenty minutes. BAKED POTATOES, CARLSRUHE STYLE. No. 1171. These are prepared the same as those in No. 1170, except that the herrings should be omitted, using scollops of smoked lamb or pig's tongue, and sliced breakfast sausages instead. BAKED POTATOES WITH ANCHOVIES. No. 1172. Peel, boil and slice one dozen Potatoes and season them with salt. Wash half a pound of Anchovies and remove the skin and bones. Cut six hard-boiled eggs in quarters. Then butter THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 271 a deep baking dish tLickly, place a layer of the sliced Potatoes in the bottom and moisten it with sour cream. On this put a layer of the eggs and Anchovy, alternating in this way until the dish is full. Have a layer of Potatoes on top, moisten it with sour cream,, and sprinkle raspings of bread on top, with a small piece of butter. Wipe off the borders and bake it for fifteen minutes. BOILED POTATOES, ITALIAN STYLE. No. 1173. Chop one large, white onion finely, put it into a. saucepan with a piece of butter and fry it lightly. Then add two soup-spoonfuls of flour and let it cook for five minutes while stirring it. Dilute this with a pint of cream to make a thick Cream sauce, cooking it slowly for ten minutes. Then add two spoonfuls of finely cut, lean ham, two spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese and the- yolks of four hard boiled eggs chopped fine, and season with salt and pepper. Slice from two to three dozen boiled new Potatoes, and put a layer of them in a deep-buttered baking dish. Cover them with the sauce and proceed in this way until the dish is full. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs on top, adding some small pieces of butter. Wipe off the borders and bake it in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. NOTE. Anchovies or finely sliced smoked sausages may be laid between the layers of Potatoes if desired. POTATOES TOSSED IN BUTTER (SAUTE.) No. 1174. Slice half a dozen boiled Potatoes and put them into a frying pan with two spoonfuls of clarified butter. Season with salt and pepper and toss them over a brisk fire until nicely browned. Before serving, add some finely chopped parsley. POTATOES, LYONNAISE. No. 1175. Cut an onion in half, trim oft* the ends, and slice it finely. Pat it into a frying pan with two spoonfuls of clarified butter, and fry it lightly. Then add half a dozen sliced boiled Potatoes and season with salt and pepper. Then toss them over the fire until nicely browned, and before serving add a little finely chopped parsley. POTATOES TOSSED, ( SAUTE) ITALIAN STYLE. No. 1176. Prepare half a dozen sliced boiled new Potatoes as in No. 1175, using sweet oil instead of butter, and in place of onions use finely chopped shallots. When the Potatoes are nicely 272 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. browned, add a little finely chopped parsley and two spoonfuls of well reduced veal broth. Toss them well over the fire and serve hot. POTATOES SAUTE, HOLLANDAISE. No. 1177. Cut half a dozen boiled Potatoes into quarters and trim them. Then put them into a frying pan with some clarified butter or goose grease. Fry them slowly, and when they are nicely browned drain off the butter or goose grease, and add the juice of one lemon and some fine chopped parsley. BROILED POTATOES. No. 1178. Slice half a dozen cold boiled Potatoes in pieces half an inch thick, and season them with salt and pepper. Then dip them into clarified butter, and arrange them on a double broiler. Broil them on both sides over a slow fire, and when they are done dish them up with a piece of butter. A little finely chopped parsley, and a few drops of lemon juice may be mixed with the butter. BAKED POTATOES. No. 1179. Wash two dozen Potatoes and have them as nearly equal in size as possible. Put them on a pan and place it in the oven to bake. Turn them occasionally, and when done serve them in a napkin, with some fresh butter separate. BAKED NEW POTATOES. No. 1180. Wash and clean two dozen new Potatoes in the same manner as for boiling. Put them into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter, and put it in the oven to bake. Toss them over occasion- ally, and when done add a little salt (care must be taken not to let the butter get burnt). When roasting them with a loin of veal or lamb, add the Potatoes when the meat is about three-quarters done. They may be served as a vegetable or used for garnishing. MASHED POTATOES. No. 1181. To have good mashed Potatoes, only white and mealy ones should be used. New Potatoes, or those that are watery, should not be used. Boil or steam the Potatoes. When boiled drain off the water and set them on the fire again to dry. Then pound them through a fine colander while they are hot, and add salt, white pepper and a piece of butter. Work them well with a THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE 273 wooden spoon, and add some boiled milk slowly, so as to have them of the proper consistency. When they are to be kept for a little time, cover the surface with some butter or milk, which will prevent their getting dry before using. They should be light, "white, and creamy. BAKED MASHED POTATOES. No. 1182. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1181, adding a little less milk. Put them in a buttered baking dish, and arrange them in shape nicely with a knife. Baste them with the yolk of a raw egg diluted in milk, wipe the borders, and then bake them. BAKED MASHED POTATOES WITH SPINACH, FRANKFURT STYLE. No. 1183. When the Potatoes are prepared, as in No. 1182, add a quarter of their quantity of finely chopped cooked spinach, and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix them well together and put them into a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle some fresh bread crumbs and a piece of butter over the top, and bake them slowly. BAKED MASHED POTATOES WITH HAM, BUCKEYE STYLE. No. 1184. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1182. Put into a saucepan a piece of butter, two finely chopped shallots and a quarter of a pound of finely chopped ham. Toss them lightly over the fire and add them to the Potatoes, with a little finely chopped parsley. Mix them well together, put them into a buttered baking dish, and finish as in No. 1183. POTATO CROQUETTES. No. 1185. Boil one dozen peeled Potatoes. When done, drain them and pound them through a fine colander, add a piece of butter and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix them well together while adding the yolks of four raw eggs. Put this preparation on a floured table and form them into any Croquette shapes desired. Then dip them in beaten eggs and bread them in raspings of bread or fresh bread crumbs. Fry them in hot lard, then drain them and dish them up in a napkin, with fried parsley to garnish on each end. POTATOES, DUCHESSE. No. 1186. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1185, adding a little boiled milk while mixing them. Put the preparation on a floured table and roll it into cork shapes three inches long 18 274 HAEDEE'S AMEEICAN COOKEKY. Then flatten them with a knife to one inch in thickness, and arrange them in a buttered and floured pan. Impress any design desired on the top of each, and baste them with a brush dipped in milk diluted with the yolk of one raw egg. Ten minutes before using bake them in a hot oven to a nice brown, and then dish them up in a napkin or as a garniture with fish. POTATOES STUFFED, SUEPEISE. No. 1187. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1185. Put the preparation on a floured table, divide it into parts, and roll them into balls about two inches in diameter. Then flatten them out and fill the center of each one with a puree of green peas, or artichokes. Gather up the sides to keep the puree in the center,- and roll the Potatoes into the shape of pears (care must be taken to have them well closed and smooth). Set them on a floured pan, fry them in hot lard, and handle them very carefully. Drain them on a napkin, and in dishing them place into the small end of each, a green stem of parsley to imitate a pear stem. POTATO BALLS, AMERICAN STYLE. No. 1188. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1186. Then put the preparation on a floured table, roll it out into balls, then flatten them a little and flour them lightly. Put a little clarified butter in a frying pan, and when it is warm add the Potato cakes. Fry them on a slow fire, and when browned on both sides dish them up. Serve them for breakfast or lunch. POTATO BALLS, MAEGOT STYLE. No. 1189. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1185. Add an equal quantity of finely chopped braised veal, beef or lamb. Season with salt and pepper, and add a little finely chopped parsley and some finely chopped onions, lightly fried in butter. Mix them well together and roll them into balls. Then flatten them a little, dip them into some beaten eggs, flour them, and fry them in hot lard. Serve them on a napkin, with fried parsley to garnish. POTATOES, CONVENT, OE PELEEINE STYLE. No. 1190. Slice four medium sized white onions, detach all the circles, and put them into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry them to a light color (care being taken not to let the butter burn), then add six sliced boiled Potatoes. Toss them over a brisk THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 275 fire until thoroughly warmed, and then add a cup of boiled cream and a pinch of sugar. Season with salt and pepper and let them simmer for fifteen minutes. Then add four ounces of butter, with some finely chopped parsley, toss them well over until the butter is melted, and then serve. The best new Potatoes should be used in order to properly appreciate this delicious dish. POTATOES, DAUPHINE. No.* 1191. Bake one dozen Potatoes, scoop out the center, and while they are hot rub them through a sieve. Then prepare them the same as in No. 1185. Roll them out on a floured table into pieces two inches long and one inch thick. Eoll the ends to a point, and with a knife put any design that may be desired upon them. Place them into a buttered baking dish and baste them with a small brush dipped into a little milk diluted with the yolk of one raw egg. Bake them in a hot oven for five minutes, and when ready, serve. FRIED POTATOES, SARATOGA CHIPS. No. 1192. Peel and wash the Potatoes, and slice them finely with a knife or cutter made for this purpose. Keep them in cold water, and when ready to fry, drain them. Then throw them into hot lard and let them fry crisp. Drain them on a napkin, season them with a little salt, and serve them hot. Fried Potatoes of any kind should be served as soon as fried, and must always be hot when served. FRIED POTATOES, LONG BRANCH STYLE. No. 1193. Use large Potatoes which have no core. Peel and wash them, and cut them with a cutter made expressly for this purpose (sometimes called shoo-fly). They will resemble macaroni stems. Keep them in cold water until ready for frying, then drain them and fry them in a deep frying pan, with plenty of lard. When fried, drain them on a napkin to absorb the grease, and add a little salt. One Potato cut in this style will make as large a dish full as three in any other way. All fried Potatoes should be served on napkins. FRIED POTATOES, FRENCH STYLE. No. 1194. -When the Potatoes are peeled, slice them about a quarter of an inch thick, then cut them into sticks of about the same thickness. Fry them as in No. 1192. 276 HAKDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. FRIED POTATOES, JULIENNE STYLE. No. 1195. The Potatoes are cut as in No. 1194, but much finer, and fried as in No. 1192. FRIED POTATOES, PARISIAN STYLE. No. 1196. With a spoon cutter made for the purpose, cut out of two dozen peeled Potatoes, some round pieces about the size of a large marble. Keep them in cold water until ready for use.. Then fry them in hot lard until three-quarters done, and drain them on a napkin. Then put them into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter and finish cooking them. Then add a little salt and some finely chopped parsley, toss them well over, drain off the butter, and servo them. POTATOES, BRABANT STYLE. No. 1197. Scoop the Potatoes as in No. 1196, then boil or steam them until they are three-quarters done. Then put them into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter and fry them lightly until nicely cooked and colored. Then drain off the butter and add four spoon- fuls of white Soubise sauce, toss them well over, add a little salt, and serve them immediately. POTATOES, CHATEAUBRIAND. No. 1198. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1197, and when they are nicely browned drain off the butter and add a piece of fresh butter, a little finely chopped parsley, some salt, the juice of half a lemon and a few drops of meat glaze. Toss them well over the fire and serve. They are also served with a double tenderloin steak, which bears the same name. POTATOES SOUFFLE (PUFFED). No. 1199. Peel half a dozen medium sized Potatoes, slice them about one-sixteenth of an inch in thickness. Fry them in lard that is not too hot, and when they are soft drain them and put them into another pan with hot lard. Turn them with a skimmer constantly, and when they are nicely browned, drain them on a napkin, add a little salt, and serve them in a napkin. POTATO PUREE, JACKSON STYLE. No. 1200. Bake two dozen Potatoes, scoop out the center and pound them through a fine colander. Add a piece cf butter, season THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 277 with salt and pepper, moisten with veal broth, and, when well mixed, dish them up with boneless sardines over them. POTATO CAKE. No. 1201. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1185, but instead of seasoning with salt, add some powdered sugar to sweeten, and some vanila or lemon flavor. When the preparation is cool add the white of five eggs beaten to a froth. Then put it into a buttered mould, sprinkle the top with some bread crumbs and bake in an oven. POTATOES FOE GAKNITUEE. No. 1202. The boiled new Potatoes, or the Parisian when boiled, are served as a garniture for fish. The Croquettes, Duchesse, Surprise, Dauphine, Parisian, Chateaubriand, and Pured, are served with entrees and joints, or for large garniture for fish. The Saute', Lyonnaise, Chateaubriand, mashed and fried potatoes, are served with broiled meats. POTATO FLOUE (FECULE). No. 1203. This can be obtained from all first-class grocers, and is used the same as arrowroot for invalids, and also in making griddle cakes, soups, custards, etc. Should necessity require it, the following recipe will be found very useful for making it in small quantities. Peel and wash one dozen white farinaceous Potatoes, and rub them through a fine hair sieve into a basin of cold water, keeping the Potato always moist with water. Then set the basin aside to settle for two hours, after which drain the water off slowly, leaving the Potato flour in the bottom of the basin. If the flour is to be kept it must be dried. POTATO BALLS FOE SOUPS (QUENELLES). No. 1204. Bake half a dozen Potatoes, and when done cut them in halves, scoop out the centre and rub them, while hot, through a sieve. Then put the puree in a pan with a piece of butter and half a cupful of cream. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Put the saucepan on a brisk fire and stir the puree well with a wooden spoon until it becomes a paste (the same as a Panade). Then take it off of the fire, and when it is a little cold add the yolks of four or five raw eggs and the whites of two eggs beaten to a froth, and mix them gently. Poach a little of this preparation, to see that it has '278 HAEDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. the proper consistency, and if found satisfactory, roll the mixture on a floured table into small balls (Quenelles), and poach them in white broth, lightly salted. Serve them in soup as required. SOU p PUREE OF POTATOES, WITH CEEAM, PAEMENTIEE. No. 1205. Pare one dozen medium sized Potatoes, cut them in slices and put them in a pan with cold water. Slice the white part of three leeks and two onions finely, put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and fry them lightly. Then add three quarts of white broth, and when it boils, drain the water off the Potatoes and add them to the Soup with a faggot of parsley garnished with cel- ery, and a few pepper-corns. Season with salt, let it boil slowly until the Potatoes are cooked, skim it well, take out the faggot and rub the soup through a fine sieve. Put it back in the saucepan, set it on the fire to boil slowly, and add a little broth if necessary, stirring it until it boils; after fifteen minutes, skim it well and set it on the side of the fire to keep warm. Before serving, add six ounces of butter divided into small pieces, and half a pint of cream diluted with the yolks of six raw eggs. Mix it well until the butter is melted. Put it into a soup-tureen with a little finely chopped chervil, and serve some small fried bread crumbs sep- arate. SOUP PUREE OF POTATOES, JACKSON STYLE. No. 1206. Take two onions, one stalk of celery, and the white part of two leeks. Slice them finely, put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and fry them lightly. Then add t\vo quarts of beef broth, and when it boils add one dozen medium sized sliced Potatoes, a faggot of parsley, garnished with a sprig of thyme and a few pepper-corns. Season with salt, cover the saucepan, and let it boil slowly until the Potatoes are thoroughly cooked. Then take out the faggot, rub the soup through a fine sieve and put it back into the saucepan, add three pints of thickened chicken or veal broth, and stir it until it boils. Season to taste, let it boil slowly for fifteen minutes, skim it well, and set it in a hot water bath to keep warm. Before serving add a large piece of butter and a glass of cream. Serve a plate of small fried bread crumbs separate. NOTE. With the soups described in Nos. 1205 and 1206, finely chopped chives, chervil, or parsley is generally added. A garniture of green peas, green asparagus tops, or Potato balls (as described in No. 1204) may also be added. POTATOES FOR BORDEES. No. 1207. Pare two dozen Potatoes and then boil or steam them. When done pound them through a colander, add a piece of butter THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 279 and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix them well together with a wooden spoon, and moisten them with a cup of milk. Then add the yolks of five raw eggs, mixing them well with the Potatoes, butter the border moulds with clarified butter, fill them carefully with the Potatoes, smooth the tops, and put them in the oven to bake for fifteen minutes. Then take them out of the oven and let them cool for fifteen minutes. Then pass the blade of a knife between the Potatoes and the mould, turn the borders on a dish and remove the mould carefully. Then brush the borders with the yolk of an egg, diluted with a few drops of water. Put them back in the oven for a few minutes to get brown, and fill the center with the preparation intended for the border, which will be described hereafter. NOTE. They may also be made by sprinkling the moulds with bread crumbs after they are buttered. When prepared in this manner, bake them for twenty minutes and they will be ready to serve. When making the Potato borders by hand prepare the Potatoes as above, then put them on a floured table and shape them in rolls long enough to border the dish. Have the border about two inches thick. Cut a carrot diagonally, dip it in flour and then make an impression in the border with it. or various different desigus can be impressed on the top. In this way the borders can be made more attractive than when made in mould. Brush the borders with the yolks of eggs diluted with a little water, wipe the edges clean and set them in the oven for a few minutes to get nicely colored. POTATO CRUSTS. No. 1208. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1185. Then put them into a buttered square tin pan (having them an inch and a half thick), smooth the top evenly and cover it with a buttered paper. Then set them aside to cool. When cold turn them out on the table, and with a round cutter (the size of a dollar) cut them out. Roll them in fresh bread crumbs, then dip them in beaten eggs and bread them again. Form them nicely, and with a cutter (the size of a twenty-five cent piece) make an impression on the tops to mark the cover. Fry them in hot lard, and when nicely colored drain them, and in a few minutes remove the cover and scoop out the center, being careful not to injure the shell. Then fill them with the desired garniture, after which they take their name. NOTE. Potatoes in this style are often called Timbals and Pates. POTATO SALAD. No. 1209. Boil some Potatoes, slice them finely and fill a soup plate with them. Add some sweet oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, a few small sliced green onions and three spoonfuls of hot water. Then mix them all together and serve it in a salad bowl. POTATO SALAD, WITH ANCHOVIES OB HERRINGS. No. 1210. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1209, and add boned anchovies or herrings cut into small pieces. Season with salt, pep- 280 HARDER 'S AMERICAN COOKERY, per, two spoonfuls of capers and finely sliced green onions. Arrange them in a salad bowl and garnish with pickled beets. POTATO SALAD, WITH TRUFFLES. No. 1211. Cut the Potatoes with a round cutter about one inch and a quarter in diameter. Slice them finely and put them into a salad bowl with sliced truffles that have been cooked in Madeira wine. Cover the bowl and set it aside for one hour. Then season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, arrange it properly and garnish with water cress. POTATO SALAD, BENNETT STYLE. No. 1212. Cut the Potatoes as in No. 1211, and put them in a salad bowl with four or six finely sliced gherkins. Rub the yolks of two hard boiled eggs through a fine sieve, put them in a bowl and add a tea-spoonful of mustard flour and one of anchovie paste, some salt, pepper and finely chopped chervil. Dilute this with oil and vinegar, mix them well and then add the Potatoes. Arrange them nicely in a salad bowl and garnish with hard boiled eggs cut in halves, and some sliced truffles that have been cooked in Madeira wine. POTATO SALAD, WITH ASPIC JELLY, CHARTREUSE. No. 1213. Boil two dozen firm, solid Potatoes; those that are mealy will not do for this recipe. They must be thoroughly cooked and then cooled. Then trim them into pieces about one or one-half of an inch thick, and after this cut them with a round column cut- ter, obtaining as many perfect pieces as possible. Put them on a napkin. Have some broken ice in a pan and put the mould in it that you intend filling. Line the mould with a coating of Aspic jelly and decorate the bottom with the whites of hard boiled eggs and some capers and olives in the shape of a rosette. Then dip the small round pieces of Potato in Aspic jelly and arrange them nicely around the inside of the mould close together, to form a solid wall. (They may be alternated with sliced beets or gherkins.) When this is done, line the inside again with Aspic jelly to fill up the in- terstices. Now cut some hard boiled eggs in fine slices, place them in the bottom of the mould over the rosette, and put over this a few thin slices of beef tongue and some capers. Pour a little Aspic jelly over it to keep it firm. Cut some cold boiled Potatoes in thin square pieces and put them in a salad bowl. Add to it one-quarter of its quantity of boned sar- THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 281 dines, cut in small pieces, and a few capers. Now make a Mayon- naise dressing with Aspic jelly (see Book on Sauces). Season it highly. Mix it with the Potatoes quickly, before the dressing be- comes hard, and put the mixture in the mould to fill it. Then smooth off the surface evenly and keep the mould in a cool place until ready to use it. When ready to serve it, dip the mould in lukewarm water, dry it with a napkin, turn it over on a dish and remove the mould carefully. NOTE. This can be garnished with a variety of vegetables, and its success depends altogether iipon the care taken in preparing it. It may be filled with mixed vegetables, but they must be dried thoroughly before using. Care must be taken in making the Aspic Mayonnaise, which should be seasoned well. Only fresh and tender vegetables should be used. French PUMPKIN. German Potiron gourge ou Citrouille. Kurbis. No. 1214. The Pumpkin is now rarely used as a vegetable, having been superseded by the squash, which being finer grained and more highly flavored, is more acceptable. The Pumpkin, however, retains its popularity when prepared for use in pies. Some varieties grow to an immense size, and when dry are cut into the shape of buckets, baskets, and a variety of ornamental things. CULTUKE. No. 1215. Pumpkins are generally raised on cultivated ground, between hills of corn or potatoes, but they may be raised profitably in fields by themselves. LAKGE YELLOW. No. 1216. This grows to a large size, and is well adapted for cooking purposes. It is irregular in shape and size, being depressed and flattened at the ends; others are round or elongated. It has a deep, rich, yellow color, is finely grained, and has an excellent flavor. CUSHAN. No. 1217. This is a great favorite in the Southern States, but is too tender for general cultivation in a Northern climate. It is very 282 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. productive, grows to a large size, and somewhat resembles the winter crooked-neck squash. It is of a light cream color, sometimes streaked with green, and the flesh is of a salmon color. SWEET SUGAR PUMPKIN. No. 1218. This is a good cooking variety, being unsurpassed for use in pies. It grows to an immense size, often weighing over a hundred pounds. It is oblong in shape, having a mottled light green and yellow skin, with thick, sweet, tender, yellow flesh, and large seeds. NANTUCKET. No. 1219. This is small or medium in size, and somewhat oblong or bell-shaped. The thick, deep green skin is faintly ribbed, and more or less covered with prominent wart-like excrescences. The flesh is thick, yellow, finely grained, and has an excellent flavor. PUMPKIN DIET DRINK (TISANE). No. 1220. Put four ounces of dried Pumpkin seeds in an earthen jar, and pour a pint of boiling water over them. Let it steep for twenty minutes and then take half a cupful at a time. It will be found beneficial for strangury and kindred complaints. NOTE. Paraloy roots well washed, scraped and cut into small pieces, will do for the same purpose. BAKED PUMPKIN, VERMONT STYLE. No. 1221. Cut a ripe Pumpkin in quarters, take out the seeds, pare off the rind and then cut it in slices half an inch thick. Put it in a buttered baking dish, moisten it with four spoonfuls of water, and set it in a moderate oven to bake. When cooked butter ' each piece and serve them hot. MASHED PUMPKIN. No. 1222. Cut a ripe pumpkin in halves, take out the seeds, pare off the rind and then cut it into scallops. Put it in a saucepan with enough boiling water to cover it, and let it boil until tender. Then drain it and pound it through a fine colander. Put it back in the saucepan, add a piece of butter, season with salt and pepper, and, when thoroughly warnij serve it. SOUP CREAM OF PUMPKINS. No. 1223. Cut a ripe Pumpkin into quarters, take out the seeds, pare off the rind and then cut it into small pieces. Boil them in THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 283 lightly salted water, and when done drain them in a colander. Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, season with salt, pepper, sugar and nutmeg and let them simmer for ten min- utes, stirring them occasionally. Then add three quarts of thickened chicken or veal broth, and when it boils add a faggot of parsley garnished with celery, onions and leeks. Let it boil slowly for half an hour, then skim it well, remove the faggot and rub the soup through a fine sieve. Then put the puree in a saucepan to keep it warm, and when ready to serve it, add a piece of butter and a pint of cream, diluted with the yolks of six raw eggs. Mix them well together until the butter is melted. Serve with some small fried bread crumbs on a separate plate. ARTICLE CLXIV. French PLJRSLAIN Germ. sugar being added according to their sweetness. RHUBARB WINE. No. 1277. Cut half a pound of Rhubarb roots into small pieces, put them in an earthen jar, and moisten them with one quart of wine spirits (alcohol). Six days later add one gallon of dry white wine to it and cover the jar tightly. Ten days later filter it and put it into bottles. A wine-glassful taken every morning before break- fast is said to be very healthful. RHUBARB WATER. No. 1278. Out six ounces of Rhubarb roots into small pieces, put them in a quart bottle, fill the bottle with water, and set it aside for three days. The water diminishes phlegm, strengthens the stomach, and facilitates digestion. Take a wine-glassful at dinner time and mix it with wine. Re-fill the bottle when any is taken out and renew the quantity of Rhubarb roots every two weeks. STEWED RHUBARB. No. 1279. Stewed Rhubarb is used' as a relish and for pies and tarts. Peel and cut two pounds of Rhubarb into pieces about an inch long, parboil them for two minutes, then drain and put them into a saucepan, with four spoonfuls of cold water, and set it on a brisk fire, occasionally stirring it with a wooden spoon. When nearly cooked, sweeten it to taste, and let it cook until tender. NOTE. When cooked to be served as a relish, the pieces should be kept -whole, and in order to do this it is only necessary to be a little more careful in cooking them and not stir them too much. Rhubarb, after being cooked, must always be kept in an earthen bowl or jar and covered with paper. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 293 French RICK. German Riz. Reis No. 1280. Eice is a native of the Orient, where it is a staple food. The best and finest quality is now grown in South Carolina. After bread it is the most healthful nourishment known. It is pre- pared for food in many different ways as a vegetable, and is exten- sively used, when ground into a flour, by pastry cooks for puddings, creams, cakes, etc., which will be described in the Book on Pastry. In China an intoxicating wine is made from it. In selecting Bice care should be taken to see that the grains are whole, for when they are broken, or the Bice is of inferior quality, it cannot be prepared properly. "When it is properly cooked the grains should remain entire, and should not stick together. There is but one species. The plant is cultivated in warm climates in America, and grows best in low, moist soil, which can be overflowed. It is a light, nutritious food, and is easily digested. BOILED RICE, PLAIN. No. 1281. Wash one pound of Bice in cold water, and then put it in a saucepan with some lightly salted water. Stir it until it boils, so it will not become attached to the bottom of the pan. Then cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly for twenty minutes. After this set it on the side of the fire to allow the moisture to become dry. It may be served as a vegetable or a garniture, and in soups where Bice is required. BOILED EICE (ANOTHER WAY). No. 1282. Wash one pound of Bice in cold water, then drain it and put it into a saucepan. Pour over it twice as much cold water as there is Rice, season with salt and add a piece of butter. After it has boiled six minutes, cover the pan and let it cook slowly for twenty minutes. The Bice should then be cooked dry. When cooked in this manner it is used as a vegetable, and for garnitures or borders. STEAMED RICE. No. 1283. Bice is the same, either steamed or boiled, differing only in the mode of cooking. Wash and drain the Bice and put it in a saucepan or a can. Pour over it twice as much cold water as 294 HARDEB'S AMERICAN COOKERY. there is Rice and season it with salt. Place the pan or can into the steam boiler, cover the boiler, turn on the steam and let it remain there about thirty minutes, when it should be sufficiently cooked. Have the pan or can perfectly clean or the Bice will have a rusty color when cooked. RICE BOILED WITH BROTH. No. 1284. Wash one pound of Bice in cold water, then drain it and put it into a saucepan with plenty of cold water. Set it on a brisk fire to boil for two minutes (occasionally stirring it). Then immerse it in cold water and drain it dry. Then put it into a saucepan and moisten it with broth enough to cover the Bice one and a half times its depth. Season with salt, cover the saucepan and set it on the fire. As soon as it boils set it on the side of the fire, let it boil slowly for twenty minutes, and then the Rice will be cooked dry. Then add six ounces of butter, divided into small pieces, and a pinch of nutmeg, and mix them gently with a wooden spoon. Bice cooked in this way is used for garnitures, borders, Tiinbals, soups, etc. RICE BORDERS. No. 1285. Cook the Rice as in Nos. 1282 and 1284. Then butter a border mould with clarified butter, press the Bice into it around the sides and bottom tightly, leaving a space in the center. Smooth it nicely on top, cover it with a buttered paper cover, and set the mould in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Then take it out, set it on the dish it is to be served on, and in five minutes lift off the mould carefully. Then fill the center of the border with the preparation intended for it. NOTE. When Kice is used for garnishing side dishes, it may be moulded in a Charlotte mould, or in a deep kitchen spoon. For the latter style dip the spoou in warm water, fill it with Rice, then gently press the Rice into an oval shape in the spoon. Then place the Rice on the dish that is to be garnished. RICE FOR PUREES OR BISQUE SOUPS. No. 1286. Bice is used in thickening Purees and Bisque or Cream soups, to which it imparts a delicacy for which these soups should always be distinguished. Wash the Bice in cold water, drain it, and put it into a saucepan. Pour over it four times as much chicken or veal broth as there is Bice, season with salt and add a piece of butter, one carrot and one onion, having four cloves stuck into it. Cover the saucepan and let the Bice cook until it is thoroughly done. Then take out the onion and carrot, put the Bice into a mortar and pound it into a fine paste. It may then be used as directed in the Book on Soups. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 295 RICE, FAMILY STYLE. No. 1287. Wash and drain one pound of Bice in cold water and put it into a saucepan with some water. Set it on the fire and let it boil for five minutes, occasionally stirring it. Then immerse it in cold water and drain it. Parboil half a pound of lean salt pork, trim it and cut it into pieces about an inch long. Put into a sauce- pan, fry it lightly and then add a pint of white broth and the Bice. Season with salt and pepper and let it cook slowly, occasionally stirring it up. When the Rice is cooked, add three spoonfuls of reduced Tomato sauce. Mix the whole gently with a spoon, without mashing the Bice, and serve it with fried sausages around the dish. EICE WITH CURRY. No. 1288. Chop one onion finely, put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter, and fry it lightly. Then add two soup-spoonfuls of Curry powder and a pint of broth, and when it boils add half a pound of Bice (previously washed in cold water). Let it boil for five minutes, season with salt, cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly for twenty minutes. Serve as needed. RICE, CREOLE STYLE. No. 1289. Chop one white onion finely, put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter and fry it lightly. Then add two ounces of finely cut lean ham and let it cook for two minutes while stirring it. Then add half a pound of Bice (previously washed in cold water), and four peeled -tomatoes cut into small pieces. Season with salt and a pinch of red pepper and moisten it with a pint of hot broth. Then put on the cover and let it cook for twenty minutes. RICE, MEXICAN STYLE. No. 1290. Cut one onion in half, trim off the ends and slice it finely. Put it into a saucepan with two spoonfuls of grated fresh fat pork, fry it lightly and then add two finely sliced green peppers, two peeled finely sliced tomatoes, and half a pound of Bice (pre- viously washed in cold water). Moisten with a pint of chicken broth, season with salt and pepper, cover the saucepan and let it cook for twenty minutes, occasionally stirring it gently from the bottom. RICE, MILANAISE STYLE. No. 1291. Chop one large white onion finely, put it into a sauce- pan with a piece of butter, and fry it lightly. Add to this, one :296 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. pound of Bice (previously washed in cold water), a slice of raw ham, and a little Spanish saffron, tied up in a piece of cloth. Then moisten it with broth to cover, stir it occasionally until the broth is reduced, then moisten again, and let it cook until done. Then take it off of the fire, take out the ham and the saffron, and add four ounces of butter, and a handful of grated Parmesan cheese. Mix it gently, dish it up in a nice shape,- and pour over it a nut brown Butter sauce, or a reduced Madeira wine sauce, with some tomatoes and essence of mushrooms. RICE, SPANISH STYLE. No. 1292. Chop one white onion finely, put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter, and fry it lightly. Then add half a pound of washed Eice, and let it get thoroughly warmed while stirring it, after which moisten it with a pint of chicken broth. Cut a young and tender roasted chicken into small joints, and add it to the Rice, with a little Spanish saffron, and season with salt and pepper. Cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly for twenty-five minutes. RICE WITH CABBAGE, RISTORI STYLE. No. 1293. Grate four ounces of fresh fat pork and put it into a saucepan with a small head of cabbage, cut into fine shreds, and season with salt, pepper, and a few fennel seeds. Cover the sauce- pan, and set it on a slow fire. When the cabbage is cooked, add half a pound of Bice, which has been parboiled for five minutes and drained dry. Moisten with a pint of broth, cover the saucepan, and let it cook slowly until the Bice is done. Serve it in nice shape and sprinkle Parmesan cheese over it. RICE, PARISIAN STYLE. No. 1294. Wash one pound of Bice in cold water, and drain it. Then put it into a saucepan with three quarts of boiling water, and add a little salt and the juice of three lemons. Cover the saucepan and set it on the fire to boil. When the grains are soft (so they will not crack), drain it in a sie've, and put it into a medium sized saucepan with six ounces of warm clarified butter. Cover the Bice with a napkin moistened in hot water, and put the cover tightly on the saucepan. Set it in a moderate oven, and in twenty minutes the Bice will be cooked. In dishing it up use only a fork. RICE WITH CURCUMA, OR TUMERIC. No. 1295. Wash half a pound of Bice in cold water and then drain it. Put two quarts of broth in a saucepan, season with salt, THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 297 and when it boils add the Eice. In ten minutes add four soup- spoonfuls of curcuma diluted in a cup of water, and let it boil briskly until the Rice is cooked. Then drain it on a sieve, return it to the saucepan, add a piece of butter, and keep it warm until wanted. NOTE. Eice in this style is used for garnishing deviled chops and curried meats. EICE, VALENCIENNE STYLE. No. 1296. Wash one pound of Rice in cold water, and drain it on a sieve. Chop one large white onion finely, put it in a saucepan with three spoonfuls of olive oil and fry it lightly. Then add the Rice and two ounces of ham cut in small pieces. Let it cook for four minutes, stirring it w r ell with a wooden spoon, and then pour over it three times as much chicken broth as there is Rice. Add a faggot of parsley garnished, one dozen sausages " chipolata," and season with salt and a pinch of red pepper. Set it on the fire to boil for ten minutes, then cover the saucepan tightly and set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly for twenty minutes, when the rice will be cooked. Take out the faggot and add six ounces of butter divided into small pieces, and a garniture of mushrooms and artichoke bottoms scolloped. Mix the whole gently together. NOTE. When Kiceis prepared in this style on Fast days, use fish broth; ornit the sausages and ham, and replace them with oysters, mussels and eels cut in small pieces. EICE, TURKISH STYLE. No. 1297. To prepare Rice in this style, it is necessary, first, to make a chicken or mutton broth, seasoned with salt, and garnished with a faggot of parsley, to which you have added some fine herbs, a few grains of pepper-corn and some cloves. When the broth is cooked strain it through a napkin. Put one pound of Rice in a saucepan and pour over it twice as much of the above broth as there is Rice. Set it on a brisk fire, and in fifteen minutes the moisture will be nearly absorbed. Then set it on the side of the fire, and when the Rice is dry add four ounces of clarified nut-brown butter. Cover the saucepan tightly and set it in a moderate oven for ten or fifteen minutes. In dishing up the Rice use a fork, and when properly cooked with the best quality of Rice, the grains will be found to be separate from each other. Serve a soup tureen of the broth with the Rice. EISOTTI, FLOEENTINE STYLE. No. 1298. Chop one white onion finely, and put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter and four ounces of marrow cut into 298 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. small pieces. Fry it lightly and then add one pound of Rice, letting it cook slowly for four minutes, while stirring it with a wooden spoon. Then moisten it with twice as much broth as there is Eice. Let it boil for ten minutes, then cover the saucepan and set it on the side of the fire to cook until done. Then add six ounces of butter, divided into small pieces, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, some truffles cut into small Juliennes, and four spoonfuls of beef gravy reduced with some Tomato sauce. Serve with this a plate of grated Parmesan cheese and a soup-tureen of Consomme. RISOTTI, PIEMONTAISE STYLE. No. 1299. Chop one white onion finely, put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter and fry it lightly. Then add one pound of Rice, letting it cook for a few minutes, while stirring it with a wooden spoon. Then pour over it twice as much chicken broth as there is Rice. Let it boil for ten minutes, then cover the saucepan and set it on the side of the fire to cook until done, adding a little broth if necessary, without disturbing the Rice. When the Rice is cooked, take it off of the fire and add six ounces of butter divided into small pieces, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese and three spoonfuls of rich gravy. Mix the whole gently. Serve with a tureen of chicken Consomme and a plate of Parmesan cheese. RICE FOR GARNITURES. No. 1300. Rice prepared in the following styles may be used for garnitures; viz.: Rice Crusts, Tiinbals and Borders. RICE CUSTARD FOR SOUP GARNITURE, LANGTRY STYLE. No. 1301. Wash and parboil six ounces of Rice for three minutes, then drain it, put it into a saucepan and pour over it twice as much milk as there is rice. Season with salt and a pinch of sugar and nutmeg. Cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly until thoroughly done, then rub it through a fine sieve and add the yolks of sixteen raw eggs diluted in half a pint of cream and half a pint of almond milk. Season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and strain the whole through a napkin. Then put the custard into small buttered round charlotte moulds and set them in a flat sauce- pan with water to poach. When cooked take them out to get cold, and when ready to use, slice them and put them into the soup. RICE FOR CONSOMME. No. 1302. Wash and parboil the Rice for five minutes, then immerse it in cold water and drain it on a sieve. Then put it in THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 299 some broth to cook, and when cooked, drain off the broth and put the Eice in the boiling Consomme. Let it boil up once, then skim it and serve. RICE SOUP. No. 1303. Wash four ounces of Rice with plenty of water, drain it and set it on the fire with two quarts of cold water. Stir it occa- sionally, and as soon as it boils immerse it in cold water and drain it dry. Then 'put it into a saucepan with three quarts of boiling broth, season to taste and add a faggot of parsley garnished with two leeks. Cover half of the top of the saucepan and let it boil slowly until the Rice is cooked. Then skim it, take out the faggot and serve it, adding a little finely chopped parley or chives. NOTE. Pearl barley, or any Italian paste may be prepared in the same way. EICE SOUP, INDIAN STYLE. No. 1304. Prepare four quarts of thickened chicken broth as described in the Book on Soups, set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly for half an hour and skim it well. Cut two young chickens into pieces about an inch long and trim them nicely. Then put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter and fry them lightly. Add three soup-spoonfuls of curry powder diluted with a quart of broth. Let it cook slowly until the chicken is three-quarters done, then strain the thickened chicken broth through a fine sieve, and into this add a faggot of parsley garnished with celery and a leek. Season to taste, let the soup boil slowly until the chicken is done, then skim off the grease and remove the faggot. Before serving add half a* pint of cream, into which dilute the yolks of four raw eggs. Serve with a garniture of plain boiled Rice. RICE SOUP, WITH MILK. No. 1305. Wash four ounces of Rice in cold water, then drain it and put it in a saucepan with two quarts of cold water. When it boils immerse it in cold water. Boil two quarts of milk in a sauce- pan and then add the Rice, stirring it until it boils. Season with salt and a pinch of sugar and let it boil slowly on the side of the fire until the Rice is cooked. NOTE. Soups made -with milk, to which vermicelli, farina, semoule, or other pastes are added, are prepared in the same way. A cup of cream, in which the yolks of two raw eggs are diluted, with a piece of butter and a little finely chopped parsley, will make it more nourishing. RICE SOUP, WITH ALMOND MILK. No. 1306. Wash and parboil six ounces of Rice, then immerse it in cold water and drain it. Then put it in a saucepan with three 300 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. pints of boiled milk and let it cook slowly until the Eice is done. Peel half a pound of sweet almonds and six bitter almonds, put them in a mortar and pound them into a fine paste, occasionally adding a little milk to prevent them from turning oily. Dilute the paste with one quart of milk and press it through a napkin. Then add this to the soup, season to taste, and, when thoroughly warmed, serve it, being very careful not to let it boil after mixing the almond milk with the soup. RICE SOUP, ITALIAN STYLE. No. 1307. Wash and parboil s : x ounces of Bice, then immerse it in cold water and drain it. Put into a saucepan one finely sliced white onion \\ ith four ounces of scraped fat pork and fry it lightly (not letting it get browned). Then add the Rice and season with salt and a pinch of red pepper. Let it cook for two minutes, while stirring it with a wooden spoon. Then add two quarts of chicken Consomme, and when it boils set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly for twenty minutes. Skim it and then serve it with a plate of grated Parmesan cheese. CREAM OF RICE, RACHEL STYLE. No. 1308. Wash one pound of Eice and put it in a saucepan with four quarts of cold water. Set it on the fiifc to boil for two minutes, stirring it occasionally. Then immerse ft in cold w r ater and drain it dry. Return the Eice to a saucepan with three pints of chicken broth, season with salt, a little nutmeg and red pepper, and add a faggot of parsley garnished with two leeks, one carrot and one onion, into which stick four cloves. Cover the saucepan and let it cook thoroughly on a slow fire. Then take out the faggot, carrot, and onion, and rub the Eice through a fine sieve. Dilute this puree with two quarts of chicken broth und one quart of Cream sauce. Set it on the fire and stir it until it boils, then let it simmer slowly for twenty minutes. Then skim it well and strain it through a fine sieve into another saucepan, and keep it warm in a hot water bath until ready to use it. Before serving add eight ounces of butter, divided into small pieces, and a pint of cream, in which dilute the yolks of eight raw eggs. Stir it well until the butter is melted, and serve it with a garniture of green asparagus tops. CREAM OF RICE, LANGTRY STYLE. No. 1300. Wash one pound of Eice and put it in a saucepan with four quarts of cold water. Set it on the fire to boil for two minutes, stirring it occasionally. Then immerse it in cold water THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 301 and drain it dry. Return the Rice to a saucepan with three quarts of chicken broth, season with salt, a little nutmeg and pepper, and add a faggot of parsley garnished with two leeks, one carrot and one onion, in which stick four cloves. Then add one chicken, cover the saucepan and let it cook thoroughly on a slow fire. Then take oat the chicken, faggot, carrot and onion and add two quarts, of Cream sauce to the Bice. Bub the whole through a fine sieve, and dilute the puree with chicken broth to its proper consistency. Then strain the soup through a fine sieve and keep it warm in a hot water bath until ready to use. With the breast of the chicken, make the following preparation : Pound the breast of two braised chickens in a mortar, into a fine paste, then add eight ounces of butter and the yolks of eight raw eggs and rub the whole through a fine sieve. When ready to serve the soup, put this in a saucepan with half a pint of cream and add the soup slowly while stirring it briskly with a wire whisk. Care must be taken not to let it boil or it will curdle. Serve with a garniture of small green asparagus tops or pearl barley. CREAM OF RICE WITH RICE FLOUR, ASTOR STYLE. No. 1310. Put one gallon of chicken Consomme in a saucepan, and when it boils add slowly, while stirring it, half a pound of Bice flour diluted with cold broth. (If it gets lumpy it must be strained through a fine sieve and returned to the saucepan, stirring it until it boils.) When it boils season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg, and add one chicken and a faggot of parsley, garnished with two leeks and two green onions. Let it boil slowly for three quarters of an hour, then skim it well, take out the chicken and faggot, and strain the soup through a fine sieve. Put it back in a saucepan to keep warm in a hot water bath. When ready to serve, add half a pound of butter, divided into small pieces, and a pint of almond milk, diluted with the yolks of six raw eggs. Stir it well until the butter is melted, and serve it with a garniture of green peas, or pearl barley, cooked in Consomme. RICE WATER. No. 1311. Wash six ounces of Bice, put it in a saucepan with two quarts of cold water, set it on the fire and stir it until it boils. Then set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly until the Rice is thoroughly cooked. Then rub it through a fine strainer and put it back in the saucepan. If found too thick add a little more water, and let it warm thoroughly. Sweeten with sugar or honey. NOTE. Bice Water is a good nutritive drink for fevers and inflammatory affections of the bowels, as well as for diarrhoea. Care must be taken to see that the Rice is cooked soft. It may be used hot or cold. 302 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. RICE GRUEL. No. 1312. Wash four ounces of Bice and put it in a saucepan with one quart of boiling milk. Stir it until it boils, then set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly for half an hour. Sweeten with sugar and a pinch of nutmeg. This may be used hot or cold, and can also be made of Rice flour. SMALL CRUSTS (OR CROUSTADES) OF RICE. No. 1313. Wash two pounds of Rice, put it in a saucepan and pour over it twice as much chicken broth as there is Bice. Then season with salt, add a piece of butter, cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly for twenty-live minutes, when the Bice will be cooked dry. Then take it off of the fire and add four ounces of butter, six ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a pinch of nutmeg, and mix the whole well together. After this put enough Bice in a buttered square tin pan to cover the bottom two inches deep. Smooth the surface of the Bice and cover it with a buttered paper cover, on top of which set another pan, so as to slightly press the Bice, and set it aside to get cold. When the Rice is cold turn it on the table, and with a round cutter, the size of a dollar, cut out as many crusts as possible (dip the cutter in lukewarm water after each cut). Boll the crusts in fresh bread crumbs, then dip them in beaten eggs and bread them again. Shape them nicely, and with a small cutter the size of a twenty -five cent piece, make on the top of each one a slight impression. Then fry them in hot lard, and when they are nicely browned, drain them. Take off the covers, scoop out the centers, and be careful not to break the shell. CRUSTS (CROUSTADES) OF RICE, VICTORIA STYLE. No. 1314. Prepare the crusts as in No. 1313, and fill them with a garniture of mushrooms and shrimps, to which add a reduced Cream sauce. Garnish the tops of the crusts with a border of shrimps arranged in crescent shape. CRUSTS (CBOUSTADES) OF RICE, WITH EGGS AND CHEESE. No. 1315. Prepare a Bisotti, Piemontaise style, as in No. 1299, having the Bice somewhat firmer, and then proceed to make the crusts as in No. 1313, filling them with eggs scrambled with cheese. CRUSTS (CROUSTADES) OF RICE, WITH CURRIED LOBSTER. No. 1316. Prepare a Bisotti, Florentine style, as in No. 1298, having the Rice somewhat firmer, and then proceed to make the THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 303 crusts, as in No. 1313, filling them with a garniture of lobster, cut in small square pieces, to which add a reduced Curry sauce. Garnish the top of each crust with a piece of scalloped lobster and a slice of truffles, nicely glazed. CRUSTS (CEOUSTADES) OF EICE, WITH PUEEE OF CHICKEN. No. 1317. Prepare the crusts as in No. 1313, and then fill them with a puree of chicken. Garnish the top of each crust with a small lamb sweet bread nicely glazed. CASSEEOLES OF EICE. No. 1318. Tho Rice, when cooked, is put in a buttered mould of any shape desired, and is pressed hard so as to have it in a solid mass. When it is cold turn it out of the mould, and cut it in any vase-like shape. Then scoop out the center so as to leave the shell half an inch thick. HOW TO COOK EICE FOE CASSEEOLES. No. 1319. "Wash two pounds of Bice in several waters, and drain it dry. Then put it in a medium sized saucepan, and pour over it twice as much water or white broth as there is Rice. Season it with salt, add a small piece of butter, and set it on a brisk fire to boil, stirring it occasionally. Five minutes after it boils, cover the sauce- pan tightly, and set it in a moderate oven for forty minutes, when the rice will be thoroughly cooked. Then add two ounces of butter (six ounces of cheese if desired), and a pinch of nutmeg; mix the whole briskly with a wooden spoon, and press it tightly into the plain or fluted buttered moulds. Cover the moulds with a buttered paper cover, on top of which put a wooden cover that fits into the mould, and on this cover a weight to press the Rice down. When the Rice is perfectly cold, turn it out, and cut it into any vase-like shape. Then scoop out the center, and leave the shell about half an inch thick. Dilute the yolks of two raw eggs in a spoonful of water, and baste the Casserole inside and outside; then set it in a moderate oven until nicely colored. NOTE. Casseroles rnay be filled with any kind of meat garniture, fish or purees, and must always be nicely garnished over the top. They take their name from the garniture with which they are filled. TIMBALS OF EICE. No. 1320. Cook three pounds of Rice as in Nos. 129S or 1299, having it somewhat firmer. Butter the Timbal or Charlotte moulds 304 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. with clarified butter, and place them in a cool place to allow the butter to harden. (They may also be decorated with truffles, beef tongue or raspings of bread.) When the Bice is cool and the moulds are ready, line the moulds carefully with it, pressing it tightly together around the sides and bottom, but being careful not to disturb the decorations. Fill the centres with a garniture of meats or purees. (The Timbal is named after the garniture it is filled with. ) Then cover the Timbals with a layer of Rice, smooth it evenly, and cover it with a buttered paper cover. Then set them in the oven to keep warm until ready for use. When ready to serve them, pass a knife between the mould and the Timbal to loosen it, and then turn it on to the dish it is to be served on. NOTE. When making large Timbals, the Rice should be from one-half to three-quarters of an inch thick in the mould; for small garnitures, from one-quarter to one-half of an inch will be sufficient. PANADE OP RICE FLOUR FOR FORCED MEATS. No. 1321. Put one pint of white broth in a saucepan, and when it boils add one pint of Bice flour and a small piece of butter. Stir briskly with a wooden spoon while adding the flour, and con- tinue stirring for five minutes, being careful to have the paste clear and smooth so it will not stick to either the saucepan or spoon. Then take it off of the fire, put it in a plate or earthen bowl, cover it with a buttered paper cover to prevent it from crusting, and let it get cold until needed.- NOTE. This Panade is superior to the others for any kind of forced^raeats, but it must always be used fresh. For other Panades, see Book on Sauces and Preparations for Forced Meats. RICE CROQUETTES, CREOLE STYLE. No. 1322. Cook two pounds of Bice as in No. 1289, having it somewhat firmer and drier. When cooked, take it off of the fire, and add a small piece of butter, six . ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a small garniture of mushrooms, beef tongue, truffles, and the breast of a roasted partridge, quail or chicken, all cut into small square pieces. Mix the whole thoroughly, and put it in a but- tered square tin pan, having the Bice about an inch deep. Smooth the top evenly, cover it with a buttered paper cover, and set it aside to get cold. When cold, cut out some pieces with a round cutter (the size of half a dollar), and roll them in grated Parmesan cheese. Dip them in beaten eggs, then roll them in fresh bread crumbs, and form them nicely. Fry them in hot lard until nicely colored, then drain them, and serve them on a napkin, with fried parsley to garnish the base. NOTE. When these Croquettes are used for garnitures, add the yolks of six raw eggs. When putting the above mixture to the Eice, roll them in any shape desired while the Rice is warm; then bread them, etc. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 305 RICE FRITTERS (SUBRICS). No. 1323. Wash one pound of Rice in cold water, parboil it for two minutes, immerse it in cold water, and drain it in a sieve. Then put it in a saucepan, and pour twice as much boiling milk over it as there is Rice. Cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly until the Rice is cooked dry. Then take it off of the fire to get cool; after which add two ounces of butter, three ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, the yolks of six raw eggs, a pinch of salt and one of nutmeg. Mix the whole well together. Put some clarified butter in a frying-pan, and drop into it a tablespoonful of Rice in a lump. Repeat this until the bottom of the pan is well covered, not allowing the lumps to touch each other. Fry them on both sides over a brisk fire, and when nicely browned, drain them and then serve them hot. RICE CROQUETTES. No. 1324. Wash one pound of Rice in cold water and drain it. Then put it in a saucepan with two quarts of boiled milk, the peel- ings of one lemon and one stick of cinnamon. Cover the saucepan, set it on a slow fire to cook gently, and when the Rice is nearly done add six ounces of powdered sugar and two ounces of butter and let it cook until thoroughly done. Should the Rice get too dry while cooking add a little more milk to it. Take it off of the fire, take out the lemon peelings and the stick of cinnamon, mix the Rice well together, and when it is somewhat cool, add to it the yolks of six raw eggs, a little essence of lemon or orange-flower water, (whichever may be desired). Mix it well together and put it into a buttered pan. Cover it with a buttered paper cover and let it get cold. Then roll the Rice in any croquette shapes desired, dip them in beaten eggs, then in fresh bread crumbs, arrange them in proper shape, fry them in hot lard, drain them, roll them in powdered sugar into which add a little ground cinnamon, and then dish them up on a napkin. NOTE. Either a Hard sauce or a Wine sauce flavored with Maraschino or rum can be served with this. RICE FRITTERS. No. 1325. Cook the Rice as in No. 1324. Then add some stoned raisins and currants that are perfectly clean, or some small square pieces of citron. Mix them all thoroughly, and, when the Rice is cold, roll it into balls about the size of a walnut. Dip them in frying batter, then fry them in hot lard, and drain them. After this, dip them in powdered sugar, and serve them on a napkin. . NOTE. The Fritters may be flavored with lemon or orange flower water, as they are considered the best flavors for Rice. The Fritters are always named after the ingredients that are put into them. 20 306 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. RICE CAKE, SOUFFLE. No. 1326. Prepare the Rice as in No. 1324, and when it is cooked, put it in a pan to get cold. Then flavor it with lemon or orange, add the yolks of six raw eggs, and mix the whole thoroughly. Then beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, and mix it gently with the rice. Butter some Charlotte moulds, and dust them with bread crumbs; then fill them three-quarters full with the Rice, and set them in a moderate oven to bake. When baked, turn it on a dish and let it stand a few minutes; then remove the mould, sprinkle it with powdered sugar, and serve it with a bowl of lemon sauce separate. NOTE. Raisins, currants or any kind of crystallized fruit may be added. RICE CAKE, GLAZED. No. 1327. Prepare the Rice as in No. 1324, and, when it is cooked, put it in a pan to cool. Then add four whole raw eggs, the yolks of four more raw eggs, and six ounces of stoned raisins, currants, or citron cut in small pieces. Mix the whole thoroughly, and flavor with lemon or vanilla. Butter a square pan, in the bottom of which lay a buttered paper. Sprinkle it with flour, and put the Rice in the pan to the thickness of an inch. Set the pan into a larger pan con- taining some water, being careful not to let any of the water touch the Rice. Then set it in the oven to bake. When baked set the Rice out to cool. Then turn it out on a board or the bottom of another pan, remove the paper, and glaze the cake with a glaze made with rum or maraschino. Then set it in a moderate oven to dry, after which cut it in any shape desired, and serve with a Lemon or Rum sauce. RICE FOR COMPOTES OF FRUIT. No. 1328. Wash one pound of Rice in cold water, and drain it. Then put it in a saucepan with three quarts of boiled milk, stirring it until it boils. Then add the peelings of one lemon and a stick of cinnamon. Cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly. When the Rice is three-quarters cooked, sweeten it to taste, and, should it be too thick, add a little more milk. When it is done keep it warm for use. When the fruit is cooked as for Compotes, dish up the Rice, and garnish it with the fruit intended to be served with it. NOTE. For full description of Compotes, see the Book on Pastry. RICE WITH MILK, FOR INVALIDS. No. 1329. Wash half a pound of Rice in cold water, drain it dry and put it in a saucepan with six ounces of powdered sugar, THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 307 two ounces of fresh butter, three soup-spoonfuls of white honey and half a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. Then add three pints of fresh milk, cover the saucepan tight and set it in a hot oven to cook for forty-five minutes. NOTE. Care must be taken to have the saucepan high enough to prevent the milk from running over, as when the milk rises it should fall back to the Rice. This is light, agreeable, nourishing and healthful for persons having inflammation of the chest or stomach. RICE CRUSTS, OE STANDS FOE HOT OE COLD SIDE DISHES. No. 1330. Crusts upon which side dishes are dressed, are gen- erally cut from bread and are formed in various shapes, but those of Rice wili be found much better and more secure, as they are very firm and will not soften like the bread, especially when the dish to be served must remain on the table for some time. Besides this, the whiteness of the Rice, when the crust is well made, presents a much more pleasing effect than the bread. This will be found to be the case, especially in cold dishes, owing to the fact that the Rice can be cut or carved into any shape after it has been moulded, but it requires experience and practice to shape them nicely. HOW TO COOK RICE FOB CEUSTS OE STANDS. No. 1331. Wash four pounds of Rice in plenty of cold water and drain it. Then put it in a saucepan and pour over it three times as much water as there is Rice. Add a little salt and a small piece of butter and set it on the fire to boil, stirring it well. Six minutes after this, put the cover on the pan tightly, and set in a moderate oven for one hour, when the rice will be cooked dry. (If any of the Rice on top has become browned, remove it.) Then take the Rice from the saucepan with a spoon, being careful not to remove any that adheres to the side or bottom of the pan. Put it in a mortar, pound it to a fine paste and put it on a clean table board. Then dip your hands in cold water and work the Rice well together. Then butter a mould of the desired shape, fill it with the Bice, and smooth the surface evenly. Put a buttered paper cover on top, and on this place a wooden cover that will fit inside of the mould. A heavy weight must be put on the board to press the Rice down solid. Then set it aside for ten hours to get cold, and, when ready to use it, dip the mould in hot water and turn the Rice out on a dish. Then cut the Rice into any shape desired with a small sharp knife, and keep it covered with a damp napkin until wanted. 308 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY CLXXH ROCAMBOLE. Rocambole. Rocambole. No. 1332. Rocambole is a half-hardy perennial plant, and is a native of Denmark. They partake of the character of the shallot and garlic, and should always be dipped in boiling water for a jew minutes before using, as they have a bitter taste. They are used in the same manner as shallots or garlic. CULTURE. No. 1333. It is propagated by planting either the underground bulbs or the small cloves or bulbs that are produced upon the stem of the plant. Plant them in April, five inches apart, in drills that .are ten inches apart. They will attain their full size in August, and may then be used for cooking, or may be spread out to dry, ihen tied in bunches and kept in a dry place for future use. CLXXIH. French ROCKET 1 . German Roquette. Winterkresse. No. 1334. Rocket is a hardy, annual plant, a native of the, south of Europe. The leaves are long, lobed, smooth, glossy, succulent and tender, and are eaten when young as a salad. CULTURE. No. 1335. The seeds are sown thickly in shallow drills one foot apart, as early in spring as the ground will admit. If they are sown in a dry season, or in poor soil, the leaves are liable to be rough and acrid; therefore, be careful to use rich loam, and to water the plants well. If they grow rapid and vigorous, the foliage will be succulent and mildly flavored. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 309 French ROSEMARY. German Romarin. Rosmarin. No. 1336. Rosemary is a half-hardy, shrubby plant, with a fra- grant odor, and a warm, aromatic, bitter taste. The leaves vary in form and color in the different varieties. It is used for flavoring meats and soups, and also in the manufacture of cologne. Its flowers and calyxes form one of the principal ingredients in the distillation of Hungary water. Drinks are made by an infusion of O / / the leaves. CULTURE. No. 1337. Rosemary requires a light, dry soil, in a sheltered situation. The seeds are sown in April, in small nursery beds, and the seedlings, when two inches high, are transplanted in rows two feet apart, and sixteen inches apart in the rows. When propagated by cuttings, they should be taken off in May or June, when six inches long, and set two-thirds of their length in the earth, in a moist and shady situation. When well rooted, transplant as for seedlings. GOLD STBIPED. No. 1338. A variety of the common green-leaved. The foliage is striped, variegated with yellow. SILVEE STEIPED. No. 1339. A sub-variety of the common green-leaved, and the most tender of all sorts. The leaves are striped, variegated with white. Both the gold and silver striped* varieties are cultivated for ornamental plants. NARROW LEAVED. No. 1340. A smaller vaiiety, with less branches, and not as much esteemed as the others. COMMON OR GREEN LEAVED. No. 1341. This is the best variety for cultivation. It is of a spreading habit, and is more aromatic than the others. The leaves are green and narrow, being rounded at the ends. 310 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. CLXXV, French RUE. . German Rue. Haute. No. 1342. This is a hardy, perennial plant, having a peculiar odor. The leaves are bitter and so acrid as to blister the skin. It is a stimulant and anti-spasmodic, but must be used with great caution, for unless this is done its use may result in serious injury. It must not be allowed to run to seed, and does best in poor soil. The plant is rarely used in this country for other than medicinal purposes. In the Eastern countries it is used in soups, and the leaves are boiled and pickled in vinegar. BROAD-LEAVED RUE. No. 1343. The stem is shrubby and the compound leaves are of a grayish-green color, having a strong odor. The flowers are yellow, in terminal, spreading clusters. The fruit is a roundish capsule, and contains four rough, black seeds. NARROW-LEAVED RUE. No. 1344. This variety is hardier than the broad-leaved. The flowers are produced in longer and looser clusters. ARTICLE CLXXVI. RUTA-BAGA RUSSIAN OR SWEEDISH TURNIP. Navet Rave. Stechriibe. No. 1345. The Ruta-baga, or Russian Turnip, is extensively grown for a farm crop. The roots are closely grained and very hard, and will endure a considerable degree of cold without injury. They are preserved best in a pit or cellar during the winter, and are excellent for the table early in spring. Sow them from the end of June to the middle of July, in drills two feet apart, and thin them out to eight inches in the rows. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 311 AMERICAN PURPLE TOP. No. 1346. This is the leading variety. It is very hardy and productive, being equally good for stock or table use. The flesh is yellow, solid, sweet and finely flavored. SKIRTING'S PURPLE TOP. No. 1347. This is a good large variety that keeps well. The flesh is firm, solid and sweet. SHAMROCK. No. 1348. One of the finest purple top varieties in cultivation, and keeps well. It forms a handsome bulb, with small tops, and but a few leaves. LARGE WHITE FRENCH, No. 1349. This is a superior and popular variety. The flesh, which is white, firm and solid, has a rich sweet flavor and attains a large size. ARTICLE CLXXVII. French RYE. German Seigle. Korn-Roggen. No. 1350. Eye is a hardy (secale cereal) plant and is closely allied to wheat. The grain is ground into flour and constitutes a large portion of breadstuff. The Eye flour is the best for making a cake called conglofls, which is of Polish origin. The various recipes will be found in the Book on Pastry. CULTURE. No. 1351. Th time for sowing is from the middle of August to the first of September, and it succeeds best in sandy soil. One ploughing is given, "and the seed is sown broadcast. If cut before it is fully ripe, the grain makes better flour and produces a larger quantity. If intended for seed, the grain should be fully ripe. 312 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICLE CLXXVIII French SAFFRON. German Safran. Saffran.. No. 1352. The common cultivated Saffron is a perennial plant. It is cultivated for its flowers, which are large, of a beautiful lilac color, and are used in dyeing, and to make the cosmetic called Rouge. The Saffron has been known for ages in Greece and Asia Minor. There are several different varieties. The French Saffron is much superior in color, and the Spanish is the best in flavor. The Saffron is cultivated in the United States as a garden flower only. The flowers are gathered after they show themselves, as their period of flowering is very short. The stigmas, or summits of the petals, with a portion of the style, are separated from the remain- der of the flower, and are carefully dried by aitificial heat, or in the sun. During this process they are made into the form of a cake, by pressure; but the finest Spanish Saffron is dried loosely. They are distinguished by the name of cake, or hay-Saffron. It must be kept in a dry place, in well-stopped vessels. Saffron has a peculiar aromatic odor, a warm, pungent, "bitter taste, and a rich, deep orange color. When soaked in water it colors the liquid an orange- yellow color. It is much used in the Spanish and Southern coun- tries for culinary purposes, for flavoring soups and rice dishes, and also by confectioners, and for medicinal purposes. From the seed a fixed oil is obtained somewhat similar to that of the sunflower. On account of the high price of the Spanish Saffron it is adulterated frequently. The flowers of other plants, such as safflower, marigold and arnica, are mixed with the genuine stigmas. They may be de- tected by their shape, which is rendered obvious by putting a portion of the so-called Saffron in hot water, which will cause them to expand. Much of this is to be found in the United States, and is sold under the name of African Saffron. Other adulterations are made with yellow-colored chalk, or sulphate of barrium, made into a thin paste, probably with honey, and attached to stigmas. The pure Saffron will always be clear when diluted with water, assuming a fine pure yellow tint, and the Saffron its red color. Less than the ordinary brightness of color in the Saffron should lead to the sus- picion of adulteration. Saffron should not be very, moist nor dry. The freshest is the best and should not be over a year old. When it is put in acidulated water it should color it bright yellow. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. YELLOW COLOEING FOR CULINARY PURPOSES. No. 1353. To a quarter of a pound of Saffron add a pint of water and one ounce of alum. Let it boil for fifteen minutes, then strain it through a towel and put it into bottles. When it is cold, cork the bottles tightly. French SAGE. German Sauge. Salbei. No. 1354. This is a hardy, perennial plant, possessing some medicinal properties. It is cultivated principally for use as a condi- ment, and is used more extensively than any other herb, both green and in a dried state, for seasoning stuffings, meats, stews and soups. It is also used for flavoring cheese, and, in the form of a decoction, is sometimes employed for medicinal purposes. It should be gath- ered for drying before the development of the flowering shoots; and when cultivated for its leaves, the shoots should be cut off as they make their appearance. The product will be largely increased, as the leaves are put forth in much greater numbers and attain larger size. CULTURE. No. 1355. Sow it early in^spring, in very rich ground. Cultivate it often and thin the plants to sixteen inches apart. The plants will survive the winter, and, if divided, will give a second crop superior to the first in quality. BROAD-LEAVED GREEN SAGE. No. 1356. The stem is shrubby, and the leaves are large, broad and heart-shaped, woolly, toothed on the margin, and produced on long foot-stalks. It is rarely employed for cooking purposes, but for medicinal purposes it is considered better than any other sort. COMMON OR RED-LEAVED.* No. 1357. This is the common Sage leaf of the garden, and, with the green-leaved which is but a sub-variety, is the most esteemed for culinary purposes. The young stalk, the leaf-stems, the ribs and the nerves of the leaves are purple. The young leaves 314 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. are sometimes tinged with the same color, but generally change by age to clear green. The red-leaved is generally regarded as pos- sessing a higher flavor than the green-leaved, and is preferred for cultivation. GREEN-LEAVED. No. 1358. A variety of the red-leaved. The young shoots, the leaf-stalks, the ribs and the nerves of the leaves are green. NARROW-LEAVED GREEN SAGE. No. 1359. This variety is mildly flavored and is the most esteemed of all the sorts for use in a crude state. It is also one of the best for decoctions. DRIED SAGE. No. 1360. Sage, when used for culinary purposes, is best in its dry state, whole or ground; but like all other herbs, it should be used moderately. ARTICLE; CLXXX. French SAGO. German Sayou. Sago. No. 1361. Sago is a dry, granulated starch that is imported from the East Indies. It is the prepared pith of th'e Sago and other palms. Numerous trees in the East Indies and on the coast of the Indian Ocean, contain a farinaceous pith which is prepared for nutriment by the natives. The Sago Palm is one of the smallest, its height seldom exceeding thirty feet. The trunk is thick, erect and cylindrical, and is covered with a beautiful crown of foliage, of large, pinniate leaves, extending in all directions from the summit and curving gracefully downwards. The medullary matter contains most of the starch. When the large leaves have fallen off and the flowers commence to take their place, the tree is felled and the trunk is cut into billets about six feet long, which are then split to facilitate the extraction of the pith, which is obtained in the state of a coarse powder. This is mixed with water in a trough having -a strainer at the end. The water, loaded with farina, passes through the strainer and is received in convenient vessels, where it is allowed to stand until it has settled. It is then drained off and the farina is dried and formed into cakes by the natives. The Sago as THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 315 sold here is prepared by forming the meal into a paste with water, and rubbing it into grains. This is produced in the greatest abundance in the Moluccas, but the finest quality comes from the Eastern coast of Sumatra, in Malacca and Singapore. It is refined so as to give the grains a fine pearly lustre. This is what is called Pearl Sago, which is the kind generally used. It is a small grain about the size of a pin-head. The common Sago is larger, and the grains are of a more unequal size and of a duller aspect, being mixed with more or less dirty looking powder. Sago is used as an article of diet, being nutritive and digestible, and wholly destitute of irritating properties. SAGO FOB INVALIDS. No. 1362. In its preparation care must be taken to boil it lon in water or broth. Drop it into boiling water or broth while stirring it, so the grains will dissolve thoroughly and not form in lumps. Should any portion not be dissolved it must be strained, as it might offend a delicate stomach. A table-spoonful of Sago to a pint of water is sufficient for ordinary purposes. It may be seasoned with sugar, nutmeg or other spices, and wine may be added if advisable. SAGO GEUEL. No. 1363. Boil one quart of water in a saucepan and then drop in three spoonfuls of Sago slowly, while stirring it with a wooden spoon. When it boils steadily, set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly and add a pinch of salt. In three-quarters of an hour add a wine-glassful of good white wine, the juice of one lemon, a soup- spoonful of powdered sugar and a pinch of nutmeg. Serve it hot or put it in an earthen bowl and serve it when cold. SAGO FOB SOUPS. No. 1364. Drop the amount of Sago necessary in boiling broth, or consomme, stirring it until it boils steadily. Sago is added to many purees and cream soups as a garniture. Sago or tapioca with chicken or veal broth, is partaken of in the morning by prima donnas to a considerable extent. SAGO SOUP WITH CBEAM. No. 1365. Wash the Sago in cold water, then drop it in a sauce- pan containing one quart of chicken broth, and let it boil slowly until well cooked. Then season it lightly and add half a pint of cream diluted with the yolks of two raw eggs, which will render it more nourishing. 316 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICLE French SALAD GARNITURES. German Fourniture de Salade. Salat Ert'iuter. No. 1366. Salad garnitures comprise the many pungent and aro- matic herbs that are mixed with, or added to, green salads in small quantities. The following is a list of the herbs that are used, all of which are described under their respective headings : Anise, Bell-Peppers, Borage, Burnet, Bugloss, Basil Sweet, Costmary, Coriander, Chives, Chervil, Garlic, Green Onion, Mustard leaves, Nasturtium, Oxalis, Picridium, Pepper Cress, Parsley, Tarragon, Welsh Onion, Wood Sorrel. CLXXXII. SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT. Salsifts. Haferwurzel. No. 1367. Salsify is a hardy biennial plant, and is principally cultivated for its roots, the flavor of which resembles that of oysters. The leaves are long and grass-like. The roots are long and tapering, like the parsnip, and when grown in good soil measure about ten inches in length and an inch in diameter. Their flavor is sweet and delicate, and they are said to contain medicinal properties which have a tendency to alleviate consumption. CULTURE. No. 1368. Salsify succeeds best in a light and well enriched soil, which should be worked to a depth of twelve inches. The manure should be well rotted, for when fresh and coarse the roots will grow irregular and ill-shaped. Sow early and quite deep, and give the same general culture as for parsnips. The roots are hardy and may remain out all winter, but should be dug early in the spring as they deteriorate rapidly after growth commences. For winter use store them in the sand. HOW TO PREPARE IT FOR COOKING. No. 1369. Scrape the skin off carefully and cut them in halves. Then slice them in sticks about two inches long, and throw them into a pan of acidulated cold water to keep them white. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 317 SALSIFY, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. No. 1370. Prepare the Salsify as in No. 1369. Put a saucepan on the fire with some water in it, and when it boils add a piece of butter, a little salt, two spoonfuls of vinegar and the Salsify. Let them cook until tender, then drain them in a colander and put them in a saucepan. Add five spoonfuls of Butter sauce and season with salt, pepper and a few drops of lemon juice. Then toss them well together and serve them. NOTE. When Salsify is to be cooked and kept for future use, add to the water when it boils, two spoonfuls of flour, diluted with cold water. When they are cooked put them, with the broth, in an earthen bowl or jar, cover it with a paper cover, and keep it in a cool place. SALSIFY, WITH CREAM SAUCE. No. 1371. Prepare the Salsify as in No. 1370, and when they are drained put them in a saucepan with a glassful of cream. When the moisture is reduced add three spoonfuls of Cream sauce and let it simmer for five minutes. Serve hot. SALSIFY, FRENCH STYLE. No. 1372. Prepare and cook the Salsify as in No. 1370; then drain them and put them in a flat saucepan with a small piece of butter. Season with salt and pepper and toss them over the fire until the moisture is reduced. Then add four spoonfuls of Alle- mande sauce and toss them well together. Before serving, add the juice of half a lemon and a little finely chopped parsley. SALSIFY, WITH BROWN SAUCE, SPANISH STYLE. No. 1373. Prepare and cook the Salsify as in No. 1370; then drain them and put them in a flat saucepan with a small piece of butter. Toss them over the fire, and when lightly browned, add some thickened veal gravy, to which add a few drops of essence of ham. Toss them over the fire again for a few minutes; then add a little finely chopped parsley and serve hot. NOTE. Four spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce may be used instead of the veal gravy. SALSIFY FRIED IN BATTER. No. 1374. Prepare and cook the Salsify as in No. 1370; then drain them, and put them in an earthen bowl. Season with salt, pepper and the juice of a lemon, and in one hour they will be ready for use. Then take them out, dip them in a batter and fry them in hot lard. Then drain them on a napkin, season them lightly with salt, and dress them on a napkin, with fried parsley as a garniture. 318 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. FRIED SALSIFY, VILLEROI. No. 1375. Prepare and cook the Salsify as in No. 1370; then drain them, and put them in an earthen bowl. Season with salt and pepper, and when they are cold, take them out and dip them in a well-reduced Allemande or Cream sauce. Then arrange them in a pan, and set them in a cool place so the sauce will adhere well. After this, dip them gently in a light batter, and fry them in hot lard. SALSIFY FRIED IN BUTTER. No. 1376. Prepare and cook the Salsify as in No. 1370; then drain them. When they are cold, season them with salt and pepper, roll them in flour. Put a frying pan, with a piece of butter in it, on the tire. When the butter is warm, add the Salsify, and fry them nicely on both sides. Serve them on a napkin. i SALSIFY SALAD. No. 1377. Prepare and cook the Salsify as in No. 1370; then drain them, and when they are cold, slice them into small stems about two inches long. Put them in a salad bowl, season with salt, pepper, sweet oil and vinegar, and add a few finely-sliced gherkins. Mix them all well together, dress them nicely, and sprinkle a little finely chopped parsley over the salad. CLXXXiii. French SALKP. German Salep or Saloop. Salep. No. 1378. Salep is a small, oval, irregular or oblong tuber of a yellowish color, a feeble odor and a mild mucilaginous taste. It is one of the numerous species of the genus Orchis. It is prepared principally in the Levant and in Germany, and is highly nutritious, being used in the same manner as sago, tapioca and other fecula for invalids. SALEP SOUP FOR INVALIDS. No. 1379. Put a pint of chicken or veal broth in a saucepan, and when it boils add in slowly a teaspoonful of the Salep while stirring it briskly. Let it boil about twenty minutes, season it lightly and then serve it. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 319 ARTICLE French SALT. Herman Sel. Satz. No. 1380. This mineral production, so necessary to mankind, is universally distributed over the globe. Most animals have an instinctive relish for it, and from its frequent presence in the solids and fluids of the animal economy, it may be supposed to perform an important part in assimilation and nutrition. It is used to some extent in medicine, but its principal use is in cookery, where it is employed in seasoning certain kinds of food and for the preservation of meat. ARTICLE) CLXXXV. SALT-PETRE. Salpetre. Salpeter. No. 1381. Salt-petre, or nitre, is both a natural and an artificial product. Its quality varies considerably. That which comes in yellow crystals is called crude salt-petre; while the finer lots, in small, comparatively clear crystals, approaching to white, are called East India refined. It is considered refrigerant, diuretic, and diaphoretic, and is known to be a powerful antiseptic. In cookery it is employed for the purpose of retaining the red color in meat, such as beef, tongue or ham, when' they are put in brine. ARTICLE SAMPHIRE, OR SEA-FENNEL. Crete marine. Meer/encheL No. 1382. This is a half-hardy perennial plant that is common to rocky localities on the sea-coast. The stalk, which is from one to two feet in height, is tender and succulent. The leaves are half an inch long, green in color and fleshy. They have a warm, pleas- ant, aromatic flavor, and when pickled in vinegar, are used in salads and for seasoning. 320 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY^ GOLDEN SAMPHIRE. No. 1383. This is a hardy perennial that grows naturally on the .sea-coast. The stalk is from one to two feet high, standing erect, with clusters of small fleshy leaves. This plant is used for the same purposes, but lacks the pleasant flavor of the true Samphire, though it is often sold as the genuine variety and used as a substitute. CULTURE. No. 1384. Either kind can be cultivated, but with the best of -care and attention it is impossible to secure a cultivated variety possessing the flavor of the wild kinds. It is best to put them in large pots in the garden, filled with earth and sand. They must be watered well in dry weather. ARTICLE: French SAVORY. German Sarriette. Saturei. No. 1385. Savory is a perennial plant, with a rigid, angular, branching stem, about one foot and a half high. The leaves, when bruised, emit a strong, pleasant, mint-like odor. They are used for culinary and medicinal purposes. CULTURE. No. 1386. Summer Savory is always raised from seed that is .sown in April or May, in shallow drills fourteen inches apart. When they are three inches high, thin them out to six inches apart in the rows. It thrives best in light, mellow soil. Winter Savory is also raised from seed, or may be increased by a division of the roots. The seeds are sown in May in shallow drills fifteen inches apart. The roots may be divided in spring or autumn. SUMMER SAVORY. No. 1387. This is an annual species of Savory, and a native of the southern part of Europe. It is about one foot high, erect but slender, and produces its branches in pairs. The leaves, which are narrow and rigid, have a pleasant odor and a warm, aromatic taste. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 321 "When the plants have commenced to flower, they should be cut to the ground, tied in small bunches and dried in an airy, shady situ- ation. WINTER SAYORY. No. 1388. This is a hardy evergreen shrub, about a foot in height, with a low, branching stem. The leaves are like those of Summer Savory. USE OF SAVORY. No. 1389. The green or dried aromatic tops of the plant are used to mix in stuffing for meat or fowl, in faggots for stews, in salads and with peas and beans. When dried it is sometimes pul- verized, and should then be kept in well-stopped vessels. The dried tops are preferred to the green ones for flavoring. ARTICLE CLXXXVIU. French SAVOY CABBAGE. German Chou Savoy. Savoy er or Mailiinder. No. 1390. This variety of Cabbage is a native of Italy. They are distinguished from the common head Cabbage by their peculiarly wrinkled or blistered leaves. They resemble the cauli- flower somewhat in texture and flavor, having but little of the musky odor and taste of the large varieties of Cabbage. They are hardier and more easily cultivated than the other varieties, but will seldom survive through the winter in open ground. A little frosty weather is considered necessary for the complete perfection of their texture and flavor. Their treatment during winter is the same as that of common Cabbages. For varieties and preparation, see Cabbage, Article XXX. ARTICLE CLXXXIX. SCORZONARA, OR BLACK SALSIFY. Scorsonere. HaferwurzeL No. 1391. This is a hardy, perennial plant. The root is tapering, slender and about one foot in length and an inch in diameter across the crown; the skin is grayish-black in color, and coarse. It is 21 322 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. cultivated exclusively for the roots, the flesh of which is white, tender, sugary and well flavored. Before they are cooked the coarse outer rind should be scraped off and the roots soaked for a few hours in cold water to extract their bitter flavor. Prepare them for table use, the same as parsnips or as oyster plant are prepared. i-. , CULTURE. No. 1392. It is cultivated in the same way as carrots or turnips, being sown in April in the Southern States, or in July or August in the North, as the plants are liable to flower and run to seed, which impairs the value of the roots. Sow them fifteen inches apart in drills and half an inch deep. The roots will be ready for use in October. If required for use during winter, store them away the same as oyster plant. ARTICLK CXC. French SCURVY GRASS. German Cochlearia. Loffelkraut. No. 1393. This is a hardy, annual, maritime plant, common to the sea-coast. The root-leaves, which spread regularly from a common center, are heart-shaped, fleshy, smooth and glossy. The stem leaves are oblong and toothed on the margin. The radical leaves are used as a salad, and are sometimes mixed with cress. When bruised they emit an unpleasant odor, and have an acrid, bitter taste when eaten. The plant is used more for medicinal pur- poses than for cookery. vK CXCI. SEA BEET. Belle. Mangold. No. 1394. This is a hardy, perennial plant. It is cultivated exclusively for its leaves, which are the only part of the plant eateu. They are an excellent substitute for spinach, and by some are pre- ferred to it. If planted in good soil it will supply excellent leaves for years. The leaves that are produced earliest are the best, and THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 323 are fit for use from Ma j until when the plant begins to run to flower. However, they may be continued in perfection through the whole summer and autumn by cutting off the flower stems as they arise. CULTUEE. No. 1395. Sow them in April, in rows sixteen inches apart, and one inch under the soil. Thin them out to twelve inches apart in the rows. The leaves should not be cut from the seedling plants during the first season. There are two varieties. The English Sea Beet is a dwarf variety, with ovate leaves about four inches in length, of a thick, fleshy texture, and a dark-green color. The Irish Sea Beet is about the same, but has larger leaves, and is gen- erally considered superior to the English variety. cxcil. French SEA-KALE. German Choux Marins ou Crambe Maritime. Seekohl, or Meerkohl. No. 1396. Sea-Kale is a favorite vegetable in the Southern States. The young shoots that appear in spring are the parts eaten, but they are not good until blanched. Their flavor is somewhat like that of asparagus. As the plant is perennial, the young shoots do not appear until the second spring, and are then blanched. The sprouts are cut for use when from three to six inches high and con- tinue in season about six weeks. They are prepared the same as asparagus. The roots are injured by excessive cutting, and some of the shoots should be allowed to make their natural growth, so that strength may be secured for the next spring crop. CULTUEE. No. 1397. The ground should be trenched one or two feet deep, according to the soil, and should be well enriched throughout. When the plants are to remain, sow the seeds in April. Keep the plants clear from weeds, nip otf the shoots of those that tend to. run to flower and, in autumn, when the leaves have decayed, add a lib- eral dressing of compost manure. Early in spring stir a rake over the bed, being careful not to injure the crowns of the roots, and cover them from eight to ten inches deep with the material intended 324 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. for blanching. A bed, with good culture and moderate use, will produce well for five or six years. SEA-KALE, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. No. 1398. Remove the leaves, wash and peel the stems carefully, and tie them in bunches the same as asparagus is tied. Then boil them in lightly salted water and, when cooked, drain them. Serve them on a napkin or on a piece of toast, with Butter sauce or Cream sauce in a separate dish. SEA-KALE, HOLLANDAISE STYLE. No. 1399. Prepare the Sea-Kale as in No. 1398, and when it is. cooked, serve it on a dish with some Hollandaise sauce poured over it. SEA-KALE WITH BROWN SAUCE. No. 1400. Prepare and cook the Sea-Kale as in No. 1398. Then drain it, and put it in a saucepan with' a piece of butter. Toss it over a brisk fire, season with salt and pepper, and add a little- Espagnole sauce, the juice of one lemon and a little finely chopped parsley. PUREE OF SEA-KALE. No. 1401. Cut the Sea-Kale in small pieces and boil them in lightly salted water. When done, drain them on a napkin, and put them in a saucepan with a small piece of butter. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar; then toss them over a brisk fire for a few minutes, and moisten them with some white broth. When the moisture is reduced, add some Allemande or Cream sauce, rub it through a fine sieve, put it in a flat saucepan and add a glass, of cream to reduce the puree to its proper consistency. Add a piece of butter before serving. CXCIII. SEMOULE. Semoule. Semoule. No. 1402. Semoule is a paste similar to vermicelli, but comes in small hard grains. It is made from the whitest part of wheat THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 325 flour, and in America is largely sold under the name of farina (see Farina, Article LXXXVIII). The White Semoule is made from rice flour, and the yellow kind from wheat flour, to which a saffron dye is added, with some coriander and the yolks of eggs. The yellow Semoule is considered best and is much relished when boiled in milk and sweetened. Semoule is used for soups and a variety of culinary preparations, and is a good food for invalids. CONSOMME, WITH SEMOULE. No. 1403. Put four quarts of Consomme in a saucepan, and when it boils add in slowly half a pound of Semoule, stirring it well so it will not get lumpy. Let it boil slowly for twenty min- utes, season to taste, then skim it and serve. NOTE. A Consomme with farina, manioca, sago, tapioca, vermicelli, or any kind of paste may be made the same as the above and, by adding a little cream diluted with the yolks of eggs, it will be more nourishing. SMALL CKUSTS OF SEMOULE, PALEEMITAINE. No. 1404. Put three quarts of clear white broth in a saucepan, add a small piece of butter, season with salt and, when it boils, add in slowly two pounds of Semoule, stirring it gently, so it will not get lumpy. Then set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly until thoroughly cooked, keeping it firm. When done take it off of the fire and add two ounces of butter and six ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. Mix it well together and put it in a buttered square tin pan, having the mixture about one and a half inches deep. Smooth the surface evenly, cover it with a buttered paper cover and set it aside to get cold. Then turn it out on a table and, with a round cutter the size of a dollar, cut out as many pieces as possible. Boll them in fresh bread crumbs, dip them in beaten eggs, and then bread them again. Form them nicely in shape and, with a cutter ihe size of a twenty-five cent piece, make a slight impression on the top of each to mark the cover. Then fry them in hot lard and, when nicely browned, drain them and in a few minutes take off the cover and scoop out the center, being careful not to injure the crust. Keep them warm until ready for use. Then make a garniture of small boiled macaroni (spaghetti), cut in pieces a quarter of an inch long, mixed with the same quantity of small pieces of the breast of roasted quails or partridges, and an equal quantity of lean boiled ham and artichoke bottoms cut in small pieces. Put the garniture in a reduced Madeira wine sauce, add a few drops of lemon juice and mix it gently together. Then fill the crusts with the garniture and serve hot. 326 BARBER'S AMERICAN COOKERY BALLS OF SEMOULE (QUENELLES,) VILLEROI. No. 1405. Put one quart of milk in a saucepan and, when it boils, add in slowly three-quarters of a pound of Semoule, stirring it gently, so it will not get lumpy. Then set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly until it is thoroughly cooked, keeping it firm. Take it off of the fire, let it cool a little, then add a handful of grated Par- mesan cheese and the yolks of ten raw eggs, mixing it well, and season with salt and a pinch of nutmeg. Then let it get cool. Now cut some truffles, mushrooms and the breast of a roasted fowl, in a short Julienne, and add them to a succulent and well re- duced Madeira wine or Allemande sauce, and set it aside to get cold. Prepare some small, oblong granulated Tartlet moulds and butter them with clarified butter. Put in each mould a thin layer of Semoule and smooth it neatly with a knife, leaving the centre hol- low. Then fill them with the above garniture, cover the top with Semoule, allowing it to form on top in a semi-oval shape, and smooth it off neatly. Set them aside to get cold and firm. Then take them out of the moulds and dip them in a cool Villeroi sauce, place them in a pan side by side, and set the pan on the ice so the sauce will adhere to them. Then trim them nicely, roll them in fresh bread crumbs, dip them in beaten eggs and bread them again. (Handle them very carefully.) Now fry them in hot lard and, when nicely colored, drain them and serve them on a napkin. ARTICLE CXCIV. French SHALLOT, OR ESCHALOT. German Echalote. Schalotte. No. 1406. The Shallot is a native of Palestine, and is used in the same manner as the onion, or garlic. The root of the plant is composed of several small bulbs united at the base, the whole being enclosed in a thin skin, varying in color in the different varieties. The ripening will be indicated by the decay of the leaves. After the bulbs are dried they should be stored in a light, dry situation. When exposed to frost or put in a damp cellar they rapidly decay. In flavor it is mild and pleasant, resembling the leek. They are prepared and cooked in the same manner as onions or garlic. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 327 CULTUEE. No. 1407. The Shallot will thrive in any soil that is adapted to the onion. The bulbous roots are readily increased by off sets, but seldom attain a large size. Plant them in April in drills one foot apart, and cover them lightly with soil. COMMON SMALL SHALLOT. No. 1408. This is an excellent early variety, and keeps well. The bulbs are about three-fourths of an inch in diameter and have a reddish yellow skin. JEESEY. No. 1409. A 'very early variety, quite tender, but decays early. The large bulbs are enclosed in a light-brown skin as fine in texture as the onion skin. LONG KEEPING. No. 1410. This variety resembles the common Shallot, but is considered superior to it on account of its keeping qualities, and as it is less subject to the attacks of the maggot. It will keep from twelve to eighteen months. ESSENCE OF SHALLOTS. No. 1411. Chop one dozen Shallots finely, put them in a sauce- pan with a piece of butter, and fry them lightly. Then add one pint of veal gravy and let it reduce to one-third of its quantity. Then season with salt and pepper and strain it through a towel. CXCV. French SHEPHERD'S PURSE. German Capselle. Tiischdkraut. No. 1412. This is a hardy annual plant that grows naturally in gardens. The root leaves spread out from a common centre, and in good soil attain a length of about eight inches. The stem leaves rest closely upon the stalk, being oval at the base. Under high cultivation the plants will attain a diameter of twenty inches. It is prepared in the same manner as spinach, or is served like en- dives, making an excellent salad. 328 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. CULTURE. No. 1413. Sow them in May in shallow drills fourteen inches apart and thin the young shoots to four inches apart. Cover the beds with coarse stable litter late in Autumn, and remove it in the latter part of February. The plants will be ready for use in March or April. cxcvi. French SIEVA, OR SMALL LIMA BEAN. German Sieve (Petite Feve). Bohne, No. 1414. The Sieva is a variety of the Lima Bean, the plant attaining a height of ten feet. The pods are small and uniform in size, generally about three inches long and seven inches wide. When young they are green and wrinkled, but when ripe they turn to a pale yellowish-brown. They are a little earlier than the Lima Bean, but require the whole season for their complete maturity. The seeds are white, or of a dull yellowish-white, broad and flat- tened. They are similar to the Lima Beans, and are almost as delicate and richly flavored. The young pods are hard and tough, and are never eaten. This is the most productive of all varieties. MOTTLED SIEVA. No. 1415. A sub-variety of the Sieva, the only difference be- tween them being in the variegated character of the seeds, which are of a dull white color, spotted and streaked with purple. CXCVI I. SKIRRET. Eerie. Chervi. Zuckerwurzel. No. 1416. Skirret is a hardy perennial plant that is cultivated for its roots, which are produced in bunches at the crown or neck of the plant. They are oblong and fleshy, with a russet-brown skin, the flesh being white and sugary. When well grown they measure THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 329 from six to eight inches in length and almost an inch in diameter. They are the whitest and sweetest of esculent roots and are very nourishing. They are prepared for the table in the same manner as the oyster plant. ARTICLK CXCVin. SNAKE OR SERPENT CUCUMBER. French German Concombre Serpentine. Schlangengurfce. No. 1417. This resembles the musk-melon in its manner of growth and in the color and taste of the ripe fruit, which is slender and flexuous. It is about three feet long and is often gracefully coiled in a serpent-like form. The skin is green, and its iiesh is white when young and yellow at maturity. It is grown principally on account of its peculiar shape for a garden vegetable, but is seldom used in cookery. The fruit may be pickled in the same manner as common cucumbers. CULTUKE. No. 1418. Sow the seeds in May in hills six feet apart, and cover them with half an inch of soil. Give them the same attention that cucumbers or melons require. CXCIX. SORREL. Oseille. Sauerampfer. No. 1419. Sorrel is a hardy perennial plant. The species as well as the varieties differ to a considerable extent in height and general habit, yet their usage is nearly the same. The finest roots are obtained from seedlings. These varieties are propagated by dividing the roots. This method must be adopted in the propaga- tion of the divicious kinds when the male plants are required. All of the varieties will send up a flower-stalk in summer, and it is necessary to cut the stalk when it first develgps in order to render 330 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. the leaves larger and more tender. Sorrel is used for soups and purees, and is preserved for winter use. It is one of the most wholesome vegetables, and would be particularly beneficial to that class of the community that live much upon salt provisions. CULTURE. No. 1420. Sorrel is cultivated easily, and may be grown in almost any soil or situation, but thrives best in rich, moist soil. Sow it in April in drills fifteen inches apart, and cover it with half an inch of soil. Thin them out to ten inches apart. BELLEVILLE SORREL. No. 1421. The leaves are about ten inches long, by six inches in diameter, and are larger and less acid than the common garden Sorrel. The leaf stems are red at the base. BLISTERED-LEAP SORREL. No. 1422. This is similar to the common variety except that the foliage is blistered. It develops slowly and consequently remains longer in season. FERVENT' s LARGE SORREL. No. 1423. This is a hardy and excellent variety that produces abundantly. The leaves are large, of a yellowish-green color, and are put forth very early. SARSCELLE BLOND SORREL. No. 1424. This is a sub-variety of the Belleville, with larger and narrower leaves, and pale leaf-stems. It puts forth the leaves earlier than the common Sorrel and is of excellent quality. FRENCH, OR ROUND-LEAVED SORREL. No. 1425. The leaves vary in form, being roundish and heart- shaped, smooth, glaucous and entire on the borders. The leaves are more aciduous than any of the other varieties, and for this reason are preferred by many. SORREL WITH CREAM. No. 1426. Pick the stems off of the Sorrel, wash the leaves in plenty of cold water, then drain them, and chop them finely with a THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 331 head of lettuce, the same quantity of young beet leaves, and a little chervil. Mis them well together; then put them in a sauce- pan with a small piece of butter, and stir them slowly until the butter is melted. Then season with salt and pepper and, when well cooked, add a pint of cream diluted with the yolks of five raw eggs. Serve hot. SOEEEL WITH GEAVY. No. 1427. Prepare and cook the Sorrel as in No. 1426, and, when cooked, drain off some of the moisture, and add a good gravy in- stead of the cream. SOEEEL PUEEE, FOE GAENITUEES. No. 1428. Prepare and wash the Sorrel as in No. 1426; then put it in a saucepan with a pint of water, and season it with salt and pepper. Set it on a brisk fire, and stir it with a wooden spoon until it is well cooked. Then drain it in a colander, and in twenty minutes rub it through a fine sieve. Then put four ounces of butter and two spoonfuls of flour in a saucepan, and let it cook for five minutes, stirring it well. Add the Sorrel, moisten it with a pint of broth and let it cook for ten minutes. Then add a cup of milk diluted with the yolks of three raw eggs, and stir the whole well until thoroughly mixed. \ SOEEEL PUEEE, WITH SAUCE, FOE GAENITUEES. No. 1429. Prepare and cook the Sorrel as in No. 1426, and when it is rubbed through the sieve, put it in a saucepan with four spoon- fuls of Allemande sauce. When it is reduced to its proper con- sistency, season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Before serving, add a piece of butter, mixing it all well. SOEEEL SOUP. , No. 1430. Wash and trim two pounds of Sorrel, two heads of lettuce and a little chervil, and then cut them in fine shreds. Put them in a saucepan with six ounces of butter, and stir the whole over the fire for twenty-five minutes with a wooden spoon until it is melted. Then add four spoonfuls of flour, and let it cook for ten minutes, stirring it well. (Dilute the flour so there will be no lumps.) Then add in slowly two quarts of boiling water, and as soon as it boils up, set it to one side to boil slowly, and season with salt and pepper. Twenty minutes later add one quart of broth. 332 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. When it is ready to serve, prepare the following: Dilute a pint of cream with the yolks of four raw eggs; beat it up well, and strain it through a sieve. Add this to the soup with six ounces of butter stirring it well until the butter is melted. Cat two French rolls in fine slices, brown them nicely in the oven, and put them in a soup tureen. Then pour the soup over them and serve. SORREL SOUP FOR FAST DAYS. No. 1431. Prepare the soup as in No. 1430, but instead of broth add one quart of milk diluted with six raw eggs. SORREL SOUP WITH CREAM. No. 1432. Prepare the soup as in No. 1430, and, when the flour is cooked, moisten it with three quarts of chicken or veal broth, stirring it until it boils. Then set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly for twenty-five minutes, and season with salt and pepper. When ready to serve, prepare the following: Dilute a pint of milk with the yolks of eight raw eggs and six ounces of butter. Add this to the soup, stirring it well until the butter is melted. 'Cut two French rolls in fine slices, brown them in the oven, and put them in a soup tureen. Then pour the soup over them and serve. PRESERVED SORREL. No. 1433. Wash and trim the Sorrel and put it in a saucepan with one quart of water. Then set it on a brisk fire, stirring it until it is melted. Then drain it in a colander and let it stand for one hour. After this rub it through a fine sieve and put it in quart tin cans or in jars. Close them hermetically, and boil them in a hot water bath for one hour and a half. When ready to use, finish it the same as in Nos. 1426 and 1427. cc. French SOUTHERWOOD, OR BALM-MINT. German -Aurome Citronndle. Stabwur*. No. 1434. This is a hardy shrubby plant, which is propagated by dividing the roots. The leaves, which are pale-green in color, are divided into narrow, thread-like segments, and have a strong, THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 333 resinous, aromatic and pleasant odor, but are bitter to the taste. The root is seldom used, but the leaves and young branches are employed in the same manner and for the same purposes as common wormwood. ARTICLE; CCI. French SPANISH OYSTER PLANT. German Salsifts. Haferwurz* No. 1435. This is generally treated as an annual plant when cul- tivated. The roots are almost white, fleshy, long and tapering in their general form. When they are bruised, a thick, viscous fluid exudes, which is almost flavorless, and of a milky-white color. It is'cultivated exclusively for its roots, which are taken up in Sep- tember or October, and are served during the winter. They have a. pleasant, delicate flavor, and are healthful and nutritious. They are prepared the same as Salsify or Oyster Plant. See Article CLXXXII. CULTURE. No. 1436. Sow the seeds in April, in drills fourteen inches apart, and cover them with one inch of soil. Thin the young plants out to five inches apart, and during the summer treat the growing crops as you would parsnips or carrots. ARTICLK CCII. SPEARMINT. Menthe Verte. Frauenmunze.. No. 1437. Spearmint is a hardy perennial plant, and is generally cultivated in gardens, but grows naturally about springs of water, and in rich, wet localities. It may be grown from seed, but is propagated best by a division of the roots, which are long and creep- ing, and readily establish themselves wherever they are planted. The roots may be set either in autumn or spring. Spearmint is used mixed in salads and boiled with green peas, and with the ad- dition of sugar and vinegar forms a much esteemed relish for roasted lamb. The common Mint is superior to Spearmint for every purpose. 334 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICLE CCIII Frcucli SPICES. Herman Epice. Wiirze. No. 1438. Spices are used to season, aromatize and enrich numerous culinary preparations. They are all vegetable substances with the exception of salt. Their importance cannot be overesti- mated as they are used constantly, yet often wrongfully. The art of spicing or seasoning properly is one that must be acquired, and experience is the best teacher. Many preparations would be indi- gestible and almost tasteless without the use of spices. Salt is probably used most, and after it comes the onions, shallots, chives, and garlic. The onion is used principally as an alimentary substance, while the others may be considered energetic stimulants to the appetite. High seasoning is more in vogue in the Southern States and in all warm climates, than in the North. The French, as a rule, use less strong spices in cooking than any other nation, preferring aromatic herbs instead, which answer the same purpose and are less exciting. India furnishes the major portion of strong spices, such as mulligatawny, chutney, curry, etc. SPICES FOR SALTED BEEF. No. 1439. Home-made spices are far superior to many of those bought from dealers, as the latter kinds are generally adulterated, and if not kept tightly corked lose their aromatic flavor by evap- oration. The following is the best recipe for making Spices for salted beef : Procure the following quantities of dried herbs: Two ounces each of thyme, sage, nutmeg, cloves, mace, and bay leaves; three ounces of white pepper, and one ounce each of marjoram and rosemary. Then pound each kind separately in a mortar and sift them through a fine sieve. Put the mixture in bottles and keep them tightly corked. When ready to use it add one ounce of the Spice to one pound of salt. SPICED SALT, FOR STUFFINGS. No. 1440. Procure the following quantities of dried herbs: One- half of an ounce each of powdered thyme, cloves, nutmeg, white or black pepper, and one-quarter of an ounce each of powdered bay leaves, marjoram, and red pepper. Mix them with one and a half pounds of fine salt, then put them in bottles and keep them tightly corked. Use it for stuffing. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 335 INFUSION OF SPICES FOE TURTLE SOUP. No. 1441. Put a few fresh marjoram leaves in a saucepan and add equal quantities of thyme, basil, savory and parsley, with two bay leaves, three chopped shallots, and some trimmings of fresh mushrooms. (Dried mushrooms can be used if desired.) Then boil one pint of good Maderia wine and pour it over the herbs, etc. Cover the saucepaa tightly, and in half an hour strain the infusion through a napkin and add it to a clear turtle soup. NOTE. Should the turtle soup be thick instead of clear, use powdered spices instead of leaves and add them to the stock. MIXED SPICES. No. 1442. The following mixture of Spices will always be found useful in the kitchen. Procure the following quantities of ground Spices: Eight ounces of thyme, one ounce of bay leaves, half an ounce of marjoram, half an ounce of rosemary, one and a half ounces of nutmeg, one and a half ounces of cloves, one ounce of white pepper, and half an oiince of red pepper. Mix them well together, put them in bottles and keep them tightly corked. These Spices may be used as they are, or may be mixed with salt. Three ounces of Spice is the proper quantity for three-quarters of a pound of salt. SPICED SAUCE. No. 1443. Put in a bowl a teaspoonful of ground cloves, one ounce of Anchovy paste, half a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, and a wine-glassful each of walnut and tomato catchup (strained). Add to this one and a half quarts of white wine vinegar, and mix it well together. Then put it in an earthen jar, cover it, and set it in a saucepan containing water. Let it boil for two hours; then take out the jar, set it aside for a week, and then filter the sauce. Put it in bottles and cork them tightly. SPICES, HEKES AND FLAVOES. No. 1444. The following Spices, Herbs and Flavors should al- ways be kept in every family kitchen : Fine and coarse salt, whole and ground red, white and black pepper, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, mace, dried thyme, sage, marjoram, bay leaves, and the mixed spices; garlic, shallots, English mustard, powdered and stick cin- namon. The flavors are vanilla, lemon, orange, orange-flower water, olive oil, wine, tarragon and Chili pepper vinegar; granu- lated, powdered and cube white sugar and brown sugar. 336 HAEDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. ARTICLB cciv. French SPINACH OR SPINAGE. German Epinard. Spinat. No. 1445. Spinach is a hardy annual plant, and is said to be of Asiatic origin. The leaves and young stems are the only parts of the plant that are used, being extremely wholesome and palatable, and retaining their bright green color after being cooked. The leaves are smooth and oval-oblong shaped, though varying in the different varieties. Spinach is prepared in various ways and is eaten with almost every kind of meat. The expressed juice is used to impart a greenish color to certain dishes. It affords but little nourishment, but when eaten freely, is mildly laxative, diuretic and cooling. CULTURE. No. 1446. It should be planted in very rich ground. Sow it a foot apart, in drills, and commence thinning out the plants when the leaves are an inch wide. When they are two or three inches wide, they will be fit to gather. This is done by cutting them up with a knife entirely to the bottom, or by only cropping the large outer leaves. The root and heart should remain to shoot out again according to the season. FLANDERS SPINACH. No. 1447. This is a winter variety, and is considered superior to the Prickly Spinach which is in general cultivation during the winter season. The seeds are sown about the last of August, in drills one foot apart and nearly an inch deep. The Prickly-seeded Spinach is cultivated and used the same way as this variety. LETTUCE-LEAVED SPINACH. No. 1448. This is a fine productive variety, having short stems and large leaves that are rounded and of a deep green color tinged with blue. SORREL-LEAVED SPINACH. No. 1449. The leaves are pointed, of medium size, deep green, thick and fleshy. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 337 SUMMER ROUND-LEAVED SPINACH. No. 1450. This variety should be sown early in spring, but it soon runs to seed, particularly in warm, dry weather. The leaves are large, round, thick and fleshy. WINTER COMMON PRICKLY SPINACH. No. 1451. This is a hardy perennial plant that is prepared in the same way as the common Spinach. The leaves are arrow-shaped, smooth, deep green, undulated on the borders, and mealy on the under surface. HOW TO PREPARE SPINACH FOR BOILING. No. 1452. Remove the large stems, wash the leaves in plenty of cold water, and drain them in a colander. Then put them in a saucepan containing some lightly salted boiling water and, with a wooden spoon, keep the Spinach under the water, letting it boil over a brisk fire until cooked. Then immerse it in cold water, drain it, and press out all of the water. SPINACH, ENGLISH STYLE. No. 1453. Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1452. Let it remain entire, or, if desired, chop it coarsely and put it in a sauce- pan with a piece of butter. Season with salt and pepper and, when it is thoroughly warmed, serve it plain, or garnish it with slices of boiled bacon. SPINACH, AMERICAN STYLE. No. 1454. Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1452; then chop it finely and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg; stir it well with a wooden spoon, and when it is thoroughly warmed, add a few spoon- fuls of veal gravy. Then serve it, having the dish garnished with Jiard-boiled eggs cut in quarters, or small pieces of buttered toast cut in fancy shapes. SPINACH WITH GRAVY, FRENCH STYLE. No. 1455. Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1452, and chop it finely. Then put four ounces of butter in a saucepan and, when it is melted, add two soup-spoonfuls of flour and let it cook to a light-brown. Then add three large handfuls of the chopped Spinach, 22 338 HAEDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. stir it in well with a wooden spoon, then add some veal broth,, and season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. Before serv- ing add a piece of butter and garnish the dish with poached eggs, or small pieces of toasted bread. SPINACH WITH MILK, AMERICAN STYLE. No. 1456. Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1445, using boiled milk instead of meat gravy. SPINACH WITH CREAM SAUCE. No. 1457. Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1445, then press out all of the water and chop it finely. Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan, and when it is lightly browned add three handfuls of the chopped Spinach. Stir it well with a wooden spoon, while adding a cup of cream, and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. (Two spoonfuls of Cream or Allemande sauce may also be added, if desired.) Serve with hard boiled eggs, cut in halves, and arranged around the dish. SPINACH, PIEMONTAISE. No. 1458. Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1452, and chop it finely. Then put a piece of butter in a saucepan, and when it is melted add a little finely chopped garlic, and shortly after, add three handfuls of the chopped Spinach and a spoonful of Anchovy paste. Mix them well together, season with salt and pepper and add two spoonfuls of light Espagnole sauce. Before serving garnish the dish with poached eggs, or small pieces of toasted bread. SPINACH FOR GARNITURES. No. 1459. Spinach prepared as in No. 1453, is used as a garni- ture for boiled bacon, pigs' jowl, or any large joints when Spinach is served with them . Spinach prepared as in Nos. 1455, 1456 and 1457, is served as a garniture for braised meats, entrees, or any kind of broiled or fried meat, especially veal and lamb. SPINACH FRITTERS (SUBRICS). Na. 1460. Chop one quart of boiled Spinach finely and put it in a flat saucepan with four spoonfuls of Cream or Allemande sauce. Reduce it on a brisk fire and then set it on the side of the fire. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 339 Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and add a small piece of butter and the yolks of eight raw eggs. Mix the whole well to- gether and set it aside to get cold. Then put some clarified butter in a frying pan, and drop the Spinach into it, one spoonful at a time, and manage it so that they will not touch each other. Fry them nicely on both sides ; then serve them on a napkin and garnish with fried parsley. GEEEN COLOR OF SPINACH. No. 1461. Pick, wash and drain five large handfuls of Spinach. Then put it in a mortar, pound it finely and add six glassfuls of cold water. After this, strain it through a towel, pressing it well to extract all of the moisture. Then put it in a saucepan on the fire, and just before it boils, set it on the side of the fire, keeping it at the boiling heat, but not allowing it to boil. Then drain it in a fine hair sieve. That which remains in the sieve is used for coloring. Another way of making the green color is as follows : Throw three handfuls of Spinach in some boiling water, with a little pars- ley and chives. Let it remain there- one minute; then immerse it in cold water, drain it, and press it dry. Then put it in a mortar, pound it finely, and rub it through a fine sieve. After this moisten it with a little cold white broth. CREAM OF SPINACH. No. 1462. Put four soup-spoonfuls of finely-chopped cooked Spinach and one dozen sweet almonds in a mortar, and pound them into a fine paste. Then add four macaroons made with bitter almonds, and sweeten with sugar to taste. Pound the whole well, and then add a quart of cream and the yolks of ten raw eggs. Mix them well together and strain the mixture through a sieve. Put it in a small mould and cook it the same as a custard. CCV. French SQUASH. German Courge. Kuerbis. No. 1463. The Squash is one of the most nutritious and valuable of all garden vegetables. The summer varieties appear early, and 340 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. are very palatable, while the winter sorts can be had in perfection in August. All of the varieties are tender annuals and thrive best in a warm temperature. CULTURE. No. 1464. Plant them in warm weather, and cultivate them generally as you would cucumbers or melons, being particular about the soil. The summer varieties should be planted six feet apart ach way, and the winter varieties at a distance of eight feet. Three plants are sufficient for one hill. Care should be taken not to injure or break the stems of those intended for winter use, as the slightest injury increases their liability to decay. t SUMMER VARIETIES. APPLE SQUASH. No. 1465. This variety is healthy and vigorous, but not stocky. The skin is thin, tender and yellowish-white in color when young. It is hard and shell-like when ripe. When green and small, the flesh is dry and well flavored. CROOKED NECK SUMMER BUSH SQUASH. No. 1466. This is a dwarf variety about two and a half feet high. The fruit is largest at the blossom end and tapers gradually to the neck, which is solid and more or less curved. The skin is tender, warty and easily broken. When young, the flesh is of a greenish-yellow color, dry and well flavored. It is one of the finest summer varieties, but is used only when young and tender and when the skin can be pierced easily. When the skin hardens the flesh becomes watery, strongly flavored and unfit for table use. EARLY YELLOW SCALLOPED BUSH SQUASH. No. 1467. This is an erect, dwarf variety. The fruit is hemi- spherical in form, and expanded at the edge, which is deeply and regularly scalloped. It is yellow in color, and the skin, while young, is thin and easily pierced. When it matures the skin is hard and shell-like. The flesh is pale-yellow in color, finely grained and well flavored. It is not as dry as the summer crooked neck variety. EGG SQUASH. No. 1468. This is an ornamental variety and is generally culti- vated for its peculiar egg-like fruit, being seldom used for the table. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 341 GKEEN STRIPED BERGEN SQUASH. No. 1469. This variety, which is largely cultivated in the Eastern States, is early, but not very productive. It is eaten either when green or when fully ripe. It is a small and vigorous plant, with bell-shaped fruit of a dark green color, striped with white. LARGE WARTED, CROOKED NECK SUMMER SQUASH. No. 1470. It is similar to the dwarf variety but much larger in size. The skin is of a clear, bright yellow color, with wart-like excrescences over the surface. The flesh is of a greenish-yellow color and is coarse in texture. It is hardy and productive. ORANGE SQUASH. No. 1471. This variety is cultivated more as an ornament than for table use. The fruit is of the size, form and color of an orange. AUTUMN AND WINTER VARIETIES. AUTUMNAL MARROW SQUASH. No. 1472. The fruit is pointed at the extremities, and the stem is large and fleshy. The skin is thin and easily bruised or broken, having a creamy-yellow color when first ripened, which changes to red when the fruit remains on the plants after maturity. The flesh is of a salmon-yellow color, being dry, finely grained, sweet and excellent in flavor. If kept free from cold and dampness they may be preserved until March. BUSH OR DWARF VEGETABLE, MARROW SQUASH. No. 1473. This is a small, early, hardy and productive variety. It will keep through the winter, but is not particularly excellent for table use. It is a good Squash for pie. CANADA CROOKED NECK SQUASH. No. 1474. This variety is the smallest and best of its class, and will keep well all of the year. The skin is of moderate thickness, and of a creamy-yellow color when ripe, becoming darker, how- ever, after maturity. The flesh is of a salmon-red color, closely grained, sweet and finely flavored. 342 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. CASHAW. No. 1475. There are two kinds of this variety. The first is nearly round and the other somewhat curved. The latter is the most desirable. COCOA-NUT SQUASH. No. 1476. The fruit is oval, almost twenty inches long and ten inches in diameter. The thin skin is of an ashy-gray color, spotted with light drab. The flesh, which is of a deep orange-yellow color, is of medium thickness. The quality varies. Sometimes the flesh is finely grained, dry, sweet and of a rich. nut-like flavor, but often some that are well matured are coarse, fibrous, watery and unfit for the table. CUSTARD SQUASH. No. 1477. The fruit is oblong, and gathered in deep folds near the stem, having a creamy-white skin. The flesh is pale-yellow in color, but not particularly fine in texture, having, however, a good flavor. EGG SHAPED SQUASH. No. 1478. The fruit is large, with a reddish skin. The flesh is red, firm, and excellent in flavor, being a good table Squash. HONOLULU SQUASH. No. 1479. This variety has thick flesh, of a reddish-orange color, and good flavor. It keeps well, and is excellent for pies and table use. HUBBARD SQUASH. No. 1480. The flesh is thick, finely grained, sweet, dry and of excellent flavor, which resembles that of roasted or boiled chestnuts. MAMMOTH SQUASH. No. 1481. This is the largest fruited variety known, weighing from one hundred to two hundred pounds, if grown under favorable conditions. The fruit is round, and sometimes a little flattened on the under side. It is used only when full grown, but will keep through the winter, if kept in a warm situation. The flesh is sweet, though generally coarsely grained and deep yellow in color. It is used for pies and soups. TURBAN SQUASH. No. 1482. This is classed as one of the best varieties, although its keeping qualities are not good. It is fit for use early in autumn. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 343 VEGETABLE MAKEOW SQUASH. No. 1483. The skin is hard, and of a pale yellow color when per- fectly ripe. The flesh is white, tender and succulent, even until the seeds are ripe, and may be used in any stage of its growth. It will keep through the winter, when perfectly ripe, if stored in a dry place out of the reach of frost. WILDER SQUASH. No. 1484. This kind is superior to many of the other varieties for pies and culinary purposes. WINTER CROOKED-NECK SQUASH. No. 1485. This is a hardy productive variety, that ripens with great certainty, and suffers less from insects than the other sorts. It keeps well. WINTER, STRIPED, CROOKED-NECK SQUASH. No. 1486. This variety is hardy, prolific and large, and keeps YOKOHAMA SQUASH. No. 1487. A roundish, somewhat flattened, Japanese variety, strongly ribbed. The skin is warted, and deep green in color when young, changing to a dull yellow. The flesh is of an orange-yellow color, finely grained, dry and sweet. MASHED SQUASH. No. 1488. Peel the Squash, cut it in scallops, and put them in a saucepan containing sufficient water to cover them. Add a little salt, cover the pan, and set it on a brisk fire to boil. When they are cooked, drain them, and then rub them through a colander. Then put them back in the saucepan, season with salt and pepper, add a piece of butter, mix them well and let them get thoroughly warmed. The Squash may also be steamed the same as potatoes. NOTE. All varieties of Squash are prepared in the same manner. STUFFED SQUASH, ROMAN STYLE. No. 1489. Select two dozen small, young, and tender Squash. Cut off the top of each and scoop out the center, leaving the shell 344 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. half an inch stick. Parboil them for three minutes, then drain them on a napkin with the open side at the bottom. Now chop two white onions finely, put them in a saucepan with a small piece of butter, and fry them lightly. Cut the Squash that was scooped out in small pieces, put them in the saucepan with a little broth, and let them cook until the broth is reduced to a glaze. Then add one quarterof a pound of roast lamb cut in small pieces, one quarter of a pound of rice that has been cooked in broth, and a little finely chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper and add four spoonfuls of reduced Espagnole sauce. Mix the whole well together over the fire. Fill the Squash with this stuffing, put them in a flat saucepan lined with thin slices of fat pork, and moisten them with broth. Set them in the oven to cook slowly and, when nicely browned, dish them up. Pour a teaspoonful of reduced plain Tomato sauce over each Squash and serve separately a bowl of Tomato sauce. STUFFED SQUASH, STANFORD STYLE. No. 1490. Prepare the Squash as in No. 1489. Chop two large onions finely, put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter or sweet oil and fry them lightly. Then add the Squash and, when the moisture is reduced, add two handfuls of fresh bread crumbs. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add a little finely chopped parsley and the yolks of four raw eggs and mix the whole well to- gether. Stuff the Squash with this preparation, sprinkle bread crumbs over them and put a piece of butter on top of each one. Put them in a buttered baking pan, bake them slowly in the oven until nicely browned, and serve them with a reduced Madeira wine sauce. FRIED STUFFED SQUASH, AMERICAN STYLE. No. 1491. Prepare, stuff and bake the Squash as in No. 1490. Then let them get cold. Now peel them and cut them in halves. Roll them in fresh bread crumbs, dip them in beaten eggs and bread them again. Then fry them in hot lard and serve them on a napkin with a brown Italian sauce separate. FRIED SQUASH, BOSTON STYLE. No. 1492. Peel half a dozen Squash, cut them in scallops half an inch thick, throw them into boiling water for three minutes, and then drain them. Put them into an earthen bowl, season with salt and pepper, and let them remain there for one hour, tossing them over occasionally. Then dry them on a napkin, roll them in flour, fry them in hot lard, and serve them on a napkin. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 345 SQUASH, SPANISH STYLE. No. 1493. Peel one dozen Squash, cut them in quarters, trim them, and parboil them for three minutes. Then drain them dry, arrange them in a flat saucepan lined with thin slices of fat pork, and moisten them with broth to cover. Season with salt and pepper, add a faggot of parsley garnished with a sprig of thyme and one bay leaf, and cook them on a brisk fire. When the broth is reduced to one-quarter, the Squash will be cooked. Then take them out, strain the broth into another saucepan, skim off the grease, and add two spoonfuls of reduced Espagnole sauce. Then add the Squash with a little finely-chopped parsley, and serve. SCALLOPED SQUASH, ASTOB STYLE. No. 1494. Peel half a dozen small, young and tender Squash. Cut them in quarters, trim the edges, and parboil them for three minutes. Then drain and dry them, and put them into a flat sauce- pan with some clarified butter. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the saucepan and let them cook slowly until nicely glazed. Dish them up, and add to the gravy in the saucepan a small piece of butter, the juice of half a lemon and some finely-chopped parsley. Stir it well, off of the fire, until the butter is melted ; then pour it over the scallops, and serve them hot. ARTICLES CCVI. STRAWBERRY TOMATO, OR ALKEKENGI. French German To-male (/raise.} Lieberapfel Erdbeere. No. 1495. This is a hardy annual plant common to the Southern States. They are prolific and will thrive in almost any kind of soil. The fruit has a juicy pulp, and when first tasted has a pleasant, strawberry-like flavor with a certain degree of sweetness and acidity combined. The after taste, however, is much less agreea- ble, being similar to that of the common Tomato. The fruit is served raw with the addition of lemon juice, and is also preserved like plums and stewed and served like cranberries. Sow and cultivate them the same as the common Tomatoes. 346 HAEDEB'S AMEEICAN COOKERY. PURPLE ALKEKENGI. No. 1496. The fruit is roundish and of a deep purple color, being more acidulous, less perfumed, and not as palatable. In its raw state it is a superior variety for preserving. SCARLET ALKEKENGI. No. 1497. The fruit is of a brilliant scarlet color at maturity. The plant is highly ornamental. The Fall and Common Yellow Alkekengi are similar to it, except in color. CCVII. French SWEET POTATOES. German Palate. B .taten. No. 1498. The Sweet Potato is a native of the East and West Indies, where it grows natural as a perennial plant, but when culti- vated it is always treated as an annual. They thrive well in the Southern States, but those grown in the North are much inferior, as the plants seldom blossom and the tubers never ripen perfectly. Though numerous varieties are cultivated, none can compare with those grown in the South. CULTURE. No. 1499. The Sweet Potato is cultivated much in the same manner as our common potato, and succeeds best in light warm soil, which should be deeply stirred and well enriched. The slips or sprouts are planted twelve inches apart in ridges that are four feet wide. Give the plants ordinary culture in the summer, and early in October the tubers will have attained their growth and will be ready for harvesting. The slips or sprouts are generally obtained by setting the tubers in a hot-bed in March and breaking off the sprouts from them when they are five inches high. For transplant- ing in a favorable season the plucking may be repeated about four times. In setting out the slips the lower part should be sunk one- half of their depth, and when dry weather occurs water should be applied moderately. Dryness and a warm and even temperature are essential for the preservation of Sweet Potatoes, for if these condi- tions are not supplied the tubers will decay rapidly. T'hey may be preserved until spring by packing them in dry sand and storing them in a warm dry room. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 347 NANSEMOND. Xo. 1500. This is an early variety that matures in short seasons. It is very productive and succeeds well in almost any tillable soil. It does particularly well in the Northern States. The tubers are large, yellow, dry, unctuous, sweet, and well flavored. LAEGE WHITE. No. 1501. This variety requires a long season for its full devel- opment, and will succeed well in the Middle States. ^Ijhe tubers are large, the skin of a dusky white color, and the flesh is nearly white, with a shade of yellow, being farinaceous and well flavored, but not finely grained. KENTUCKY EARLY RED. No. 1502. The tubers are of medium size, with a red or purplish- red skin, the flesh being yellow, dry, sweet and of good quality. PURPLE SKINNED. No. 1503. The skin is smooth and of a reddish-purple color, and the flesh is finely grained, sugary and of excellent quality. This variety is early and does not keep well. AMERICAN RED. No. 1504. The tubers are long, slender, and of a purplish-red color. The flesh is yellow, finely- grained, unctuous, sugary and farinaceous. It is hardy, and an abundant bearer, but does not keep well. ROSE-COLORED. No. 1505. This variety is hardy, productive, and keeps well. The tubers are large, egg-shaped, and often grooved or furrowed. The skin is of a rose color, shaded with yellow, while the flesh is sweet, and has a pleasant nut-like flavor. YELLOW SKINNED, OR YELLOW CAROLINA. No. 1506. This is a favorite variety in North and South Caro- lina. The tubers are from six to ten inches long, smooth, and of a yellowish color. The flesh is yellow, finely grained, and very sugary. 348 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. BAKED SWEET POTATOES. No. 1507. Wash the Potatoes in cold water, and dry them. Then put them in the oven, turning them occasionally to have them cooked evenly, and, when done, serve them on a napkin. NOTE. In the Southern States they are served in cups that are similar to egg cups. Cut off the top end, scoop out a teaspoonful of the Potato, and put in its place a piece of fresh butter. BOILED SWEET POTATOES. No. 1508.- Sweet Potatoes are boiled or steamed in the same manner as common potatoes. When cold they are peeled, sliced and fried in butter. FRIED SWEET POTATOES. No. 1509. When raw, the Sweet Potatoes are fried in the same manner as common potatoes. When they have been boiled, the large Potatoes should be sliced lengthwise, and the small ones left entire, before being fried. FRIED SWEET POTATOES, PUFFED (SOUFFLE). No. 1510. Peel some medium-sized Sweet Potatoes, and slice them lengthwise in pieces one-quarter of an inch thick. Fry them in lard that is not too hot, and when soft, drain them. Then let the lard get hot again, after which throw the Potatoes in, turning them with the skimmer for a few minutes. When they get puffed and browned, drain them on a napkin. Season with salt and pepper, and serve them on a napkin. SWEET POTATO FRITTERS. No. 1511. Peel half a dozen boiled Sweet Potatoes, cut off both ends, and then slice them in pieces half an inch thick and one inch wide. Put them in an earthen bowl, moisten them with a wine- glassful of brandy, add the peeling of one lemon, and allow them to macerate for half an hour. Then drain them, dip them in a batter, fry them in hot lard until nicely browned, and drain them. Serve them on a napkin and sprinkle powdered sugar over them. CREAM OF SWEET POTATOES, FOR PIES. No. 1512. Boil or steam one dozen Sweet Potatoes. When they are three-quarters done, put them on a pan in the oven to bake. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 349 When they are cooked, peel them and pound them through a colander. Then add two eggs and the yolks of four raw eggs, six ounces of butter, a pinch of salt, and half a pound of macaroons ground into crumbs. Flavor it with lemon flavor, or one wine-glassful of rum, and sweeten with sugar. Then mix the whole well together. CAEOLINA CAKE, WITH SABAYON SAUCE. No. 1513. Prepare two dozen Sweet Potatoes as in No. 1512, and pound them through a fine colander. Have a cream ready made of three pints of milk with one pound of corn-starch. Add it to the Potatoes, mix them well together and, when cold, add half a pound of citron cut in small square pieces, half a pound of stoned raisins, one-quarter of a pound of currants, and half a pint of rum. While mixing them well together, add in slowly four raw eggs and the yolks of one dozen raw eggs, and sweeten it to taste. Now prepare some small pudding moulds, butter and flour them and fill them with the above preparation. Put the moulds in a pan containing an inch of water, and set in a moderate oven to bake. Serve them with Sabayon sauce. NOTE. A sqiiare pan with an inch border may be used instead of the moulds. Butter a paper on both sides, place it in the bottom of the pan and also butter the sides of the pan. Then flour it and put in the preparation, cooking it the same as above. When ready for use turn it out on a board, cut in pieces and serve with a Saboyan sauce. When the Cake is cold, it can be cut in pieces three inches long and half an inch thick, which should be dipped in beaten eggs, then rolled in bread crumbs and shaped nicely. Then fry them in hot lard and serve them as croquettes. CAKOLINA FRITTERS, NELLIE GRANT STYLE. No. 1514. Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1513, and bake the cake in a square pan. When it is cold, cut it in round pieces with a round cutter about the size of half a dollar. Then dip them in a batter considerably thinner than you would use for queen frit- ters, and made of the same ingredients. Serve them with a Madeira wine or Hard sauce. SWEET POTATO PUDDING. No. 1515. Steam half a dozen medium sized Sweet Potatoes, and when the} 7 are cooked peel them and pound them through a fine colander. Add four ounces of butter, sweeten with sugar to taste, flavor with lemon flavor, and add the yolks of six raw eggs. Mix them well together, and then add half a pound of mixed fruit cut in small pieces and cooked in a syrup. When the mixture is cold, add the whites of six eggs beaten to a froth, and mix it gently. Then put the mixture in small pudding moulds, which have been 350 HAEDEE'S AMERICAN COOKER^ buttered and floured, and steam them, or bake them, as you would Carolina cake in No. 1513. SWEET POTATOES, SPANISH STYLE. No. 1516. Boil one dozen Sweet Potatoes and, when they are cold, peel them and then cut them in slices one-quarter of an inch thick. Put some clarified butter in a frying pan and, when it is warm, add a layer of potatoes and fry them on both sides. Then drain them and serve them on a napkin. CCVIII. SWISS CHARD, OR SEA KALE BEET. French German Garde Poiree. Yunge Mangoldpflanze. No. 1517. The Swiss Chard, Silver or Sea Kale Beet, is a distinct vegetable, and is much superior to the common beet for greens. If sown at the same time, it will be fit to use before them. Later, the plants form broad, flat, beautiful white wax-like stems to the leaves, which are very delicious. For preparation, see Sea Kale, Nos. 1398, 1399, 1400 and 1401. ccix. TANSY. Tanaisie. Wurmkraul. No. 15l8. Tansy is a hardy, herbaceous, perennial plant. The stem is about three feet high. The leaves are finely toothed and divided on the margin, and of a rich, deep green color. When it is cultivated for its leaves, the flowering shoots should be cut off as they make their appearance. The leaves have a strong aromatic odor and a bitter taste. It possesses the tonic and stomachic properties common to bitter herbs, but is seldom used for culinary THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 351 purposes. There are three varieties. The curled leaved Tansy differs from the common variety in its curled or frilled leaves. The large leaved variety is less fragrant, and the variegated-leaved variety has a peculiar color. Tansy is propagated by dividing the roots, as the variegated character of the foliage is not produced from seeds. CCX. French TAPIOCA, OR MANIOCA. German Tapioca, or Manioca. Tapioca. No. 1519. Tapioca is a coarsely granular substance obtained by heating, and thus partly changing the moistened starch obtained from the roots of the Janiplia manihot, a plant which is a native of Brazil. There are two chief varieties, and about thirty sub-varieties. The root of the sweet cassavas may be eaten with impunity; that of the bitter, which is the most extensively cultivated, abounds in an acrid, milky juice, which renders it highly poisonous if eaten in the recent state. The root is prepared for use by washing, scraping and grating or grinding it into a pulp, which, in the bitter variety, is submitted to pressure so as to separate the deleterious juice. It is now in the state of meal or powder, which is made into bread, cakes or puddings. As the poisonous principle is volatile, the por- tion which may have remained in the meal is entirely dissipated by the heat employed in cooking. Being nutritious, and at the same time easy of digestion, and destitute of irritating properties, Tapi- oca forms an excellent diet for the sick and convalescent. It is pre- pared for use by boiling it in water, and is used, like sago, in soups and puddings. A factitious Tapioca, known as Pearl Tapioca, is made from potato starch, and is sometimes sold as the genuine article. NOTE. The Tapioca obtained from grocers in the United States, is in the form of hard, white, irregular, rough grains. That which is sold under the name of Manioca, is smaller and finer, being preferred to the large Tapioca. TAPIOCA SOUP, WITH BEOTH OB CONSOMME. No. 1520. Put four quarts of consomme or broth in a saucepan, and when it boils, drop in it eight ounces of Tapioca or Manioca slowly while stirring it. Let it boil up once, and then set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly until cooked. Then skim it and serve. 352 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY ccxi. French TARRAGON. Eslragon. No. 1521. Tarragon is a hardy perennial plant, originally from Siberia. It is cultivated for its young shoots and leaves, the latter being long-pointed, smooth and aromatic. Both are used as ingre- dients in salads, pickles, soups, etc. CULTURE. No. 1522. Tarragon is propagated annually by dividing the roots. Select a warm, dry situation in April, and set the shoots in rows, fifteen inches apart, and cover them with three inches of soil. It is sometimes improved by cutting, when they are set three inches apart in moist earth. When not allowed to run to flower, the plants will be more healthy, and of finer quality, and will yield more abundantly. TARRAGON VINEGAR, PLAIN. No. 1523. This is made by an infusion of the leaves in wine vinegar, and is greatly esteemed with salads. TARRAGON VINEGAR, FRENCH STYLE. No. 1524. Put in a demijohn two gallons of wine vinegar, four green bell-peppers cut in quarters, and one dozen shallots. Cork it tightly and set it in the cellar for four weeks. Then strain it through a flannel, put it in bottles, cork them tightly, and keep them in a cool place. CCXI I. TEA. The, Thee. No. 1525. The Tea plant is a Dative of China and Japan, being cultivated extensively in both countries. In Japan it forms hedge- rows around the rice and cornfields; in China, whence immense quantities of Tea are exported, whole fields are devoted to its THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 353 culture. It is propagated from seeds, and in three years the plant yields leaves for collection, and in six years attains a height of five or six feet. After the leaves are gathered they are dried by artifi- cial heat, and while hot are rolled in the palms of the hands, so as to be brought into the form in which they are found in commerce. The odor of the Tea leaves themselves is very slight, and it is customary to mix with them the flowers of certain aromatic plants, as those of the orange, jasmine, rose, etc., in order to render them pleasant to the smell. The flowers are afterwards separated by sifting. There'are two principal varieties the green and the black which differ considerably in flavor and strength. By chem- ical tests it has been ascertained that green Tea is colored by sul- phate of calcium and Prussian blue. Tea is astringent and gently excitant, and in its finer varieties exerts a decided influence over the nervous system, producing exhilaration and wakefulness. When taken moderately it is perfectly harmless, but in large quantities it produces nervousness, dyspepsia, and excites the brain and stom- ach. Green Tea is more injurious than black Tea, and should not be used by those who are dyspeptic. TO MAKE TEA. No. 1526. Tea is made in several different ways. The Chinese, who are supposed to know something about it, put a few Tea leaves in a cup, then pour boiling water over the leaves, and let them steep for a few minutes, having placed a saucer over the cup to keep the essence from evaporating. The liquid is then strained into another cup, previously warmed with hot water, and is ready for use. They use neither milk nor sugar, claiming that they injure the delicate aroma of the Tea, which is true. The general method of making Tea in America is as follows: Use an earthen tea-pot in preference to one of metal. Scald the pot well; then put in the quantity of Tea desired, set the pot on the stove, pour over the Tea sufficient boiling water to cover it, and let it stand ten minutes to draw. Keep the cover on the pot, and do not let the Tea boil. Then pour in as much boiling water .as is desired, and the Tea is ready for use. Do not pour water over Tea unless it is boiling hot, as unboiled water will not extract the flavor from the Tea leaves, and will sp6il the Tea. Never let Tea boil after it is made. Use the tea-pot only for making Tea. Use cold cream in Tea. TEA, RUSSIAN STYLE. No. 1527. An agreeable beverage is made as follows: Peel some fresh, juicy lemons, and slice them in thin pieces. Put one piece 23 354 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. in the bottom of each, cup, sprinkle it with white sugar, and then pour in the hot Tea. Sometimes the lemon peel is not removed, which imparts a slightly bitter taste to the Tea. ICED TEA. No. 1528. A delicious cold beverage for summer is made by making some mixed Tea (black and green), putting it in bottles, and setting them on the ice to cool. When ready to serve, pour the Tea in goblets, that contain some cracked ice, and sweeten it with sugar. A little champagne or rum may be added to each glass, if desired, but never add milk. AFTER-DINNER TEA. No. 1529. Tea may be served after dinner the same as coffee. Serve with some double cream or brandy or rum, whichever may be desired. Sandwiches or small cakes usually accompany it. TEA FOR INVALIDS. No. 1530. Put the yolk of one raw egg and a teaspoonful of sugar in a bowl and mix them well together. Dilute it with four soup- spoonfuls of cold milk, then add a cup of hot Tea slowly while stir- ring it briskly. Serve immediately. TEA CUSTARD, IN CUPS. No. 1531. Make a cupful of the best strong Tea and set it aside to cool. Then put the yolks of twelve raw eggs in a saucepan and add half a pound of powdered sugar. Mix them well together with a wooden spoon and then dilute it with the cold Tea. Add in slowly one quart of cooled boiled milk, stirring it gently. Then strain the mixture through a fine sieve and put it in custard cups. Set the cups in a flat saucepan containing hot water, which must reach up to the middle of the cups. Put the pan in a moderate oven, and as soon as the custard becomes firm take it out. Cover it if desired, while cooking. Do not let the water boil, or the custard will be full of little holes, instead of being solid throughout. NOTE. Coffee custard may be made in the same way by using a cupful of strong, black coffee, instead of Tea. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 355 ARTICLE CCXIII. French THYME. German Thym. Thymian. No. 1532. There are two species of Thyme cultivated for culin- ary purposes: the Common Garden, and the Lemon or Evergreen Thyme, both of which are hardy perennial plants, having a shrubby character and a comparatively long growth. The leaves have an agreeable, aromatic taste, and are used for flavoring soups, stuffings and sauces. They should be used with moderation, as too much imparts a bitter taste to the substance. CULTURE. No. 1533. They are propagated from seeds, or by dividing the roots; but the finest plants are produced from seeds. Sow them in April, in shallow drills twelve inches apart. They should be thinned out to eight inches apart, and all weeds should be carefully removed. They maybe cut for use as soon as they have made sufficient growth; but for drying, the stalks are gathered as they come into flower. BROAD-LEAVED THYME. No. 1534. This is the favorite variety. The stem is shrubby, of a brownish color, and much branched. The leaves are small, green above and whitish beneath. NARROW-LEAVED THYME. No. 1535. The leaves are long, narrow and sharply pointed. LEMON THYME. No. 1536. This is a low green shrub, with a somewhat trailing stem. It is distinguished from the other varieties by the soft, pleasant, lemon-like odor of the young shoots and leaves. ARTICLE; 'CCXIV. TOMATO. Tomate. Liebesapfel. No. 1537. The Tomato is a half-hardy annual plant, originally from South America. It is very extensively used in the United 356 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. States, being served on the table the entire year in different forms,, and is one of the most healthful and best of all garden vegetables. The plant, when full grown, is about eight feet high, with a branch- ing irregular recumbent stem and dense foliage. The fruit is red, white or yellow, and is exceedingly variable in size as well as form. The varieties are numerous, few of them appearing to be distinct or permanent. Much depends on the cultivation and the temperature of the soil. CULTURE. No. 1538. The Tomato is raised from seed and succeeds best in light warm and not over rich soil. Success depends on securing a rapid, vigorous, unchecked growth during the early part of the sea- son. Sow it in hot beds during March, or from six to eight weeks before they can be set out of doors. When the plants have four leaves transplant them into shallow boxes, setting them five inches apart. Give them plenty of air and endeavor to secure a vigorous but steady and healthful growth, so that, at the time of setting them in the open ground, they will be strong and stocky and about as broad as they are high. A slight check, while the plants are young, will materially diminish their productiveness. Set them out of doors as soon as danger from severe frost is over, but before doing so harden off the plants by gradually exposing them to the night air and by the withdrawal of water until the wood becomes hard and the leaves thick and of a dark green color. Transplant them carefully and cultivate well as long as the vines will permit. The fruit is improved in quality if the vines are tied to a trellis or to stakes. Sufficient plants for the garden of a small family may be started with little trouble by sowing a few seeds about the middle of March in a garden box or large flower pot and placing it in a sunny window of the kitchen. Transplant them in the open ground as soon as the weather will permit and the plant is strong enough. To have an extra large and beautiful Tomato, as soon as a cluster of flowers is visible top the stems down to the cluster, so that the flowers terminate the stem. The effect is that the sap is immedi- ately impelled into the two buds next below the cluster, which soon push strongly and produce another cluster of flowers each. When these are visible the branch on which they belong is also topped down to their level, and this is done five times successively. By this means the plants become stout dwarf bushes about eighteen inches high. In order to prevent their falling over, sticks or strings are stretched horizontally along the rows so as to keep the plants erect. In addition to this all laterals whatsoever are nipped off. In this way the ripe sap is directed into the fruit, which acquires a beauty, size and excellence that is unattainable by other means. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 357 THE CARDINAL. No. 1539. In color it is remarkable, coloring right up to the calyx; and every specimen is of one color, and that is the most brilliant cardinal red, very glossy, and looking, when ripe, almost as if varnished. The flesh appears to have the same brilliant color, being but very little lighter in shade. They make the handsomest sliced Tomato, and have no green core. Its type is perfect, being uniformly smooth and free from any ridges. It is as early as any good Tomato, and is much larger in size than the average. It is exceedingly solid and firm, and of a vigorous growth, and compara- tively compact in habit, with strong stalks, which bear abundantly throughout the season. LIVINGSTON FAVORITE. No. 15^0. One of the largest and most perfect shaped varieties in cultivation. It ripens evenly and early, and keeps its size to the end of the season. It is very prolific, with but few seeds and has solid flesh. MAYFLOWER. No. 1541. This is one of the earliest large Tomatoes grown. Its shape is perfectly globular, slightly flattened and smooth, of a .glossy red color, and ripens evenly and well, close up to the stem. PERFECTION. No. 1542. It is as early as the Canadian Victor; is almost round in shape, perfectly smooth, very firm, and of the best quality, bear- ing all through the season until frost. It ripens all over at the same time, and is blood-red in color. / ACME. No. 1543. This is one of the earliest and handsomest varieties. 'The fruit is of medium size, perfectly smooth and regular in shape, very firm, and a great bearer. Its color is quite distinct, being crim- son with a pinkish tinge. PARAGON. No. 1544. Same as the Acme in all respects, with the exception that the color is of a bright, glossy crimson, entirely free from the pinkish tinge. 358 HAEDEK'S AMERICAN COOKERY. THE TROPHY. No. 1545. This, when well grown is, without doubt, one of the best Tomatoes in cultivation. It is unsurpassed for flavor, pro- ductiveness and every other desired quality. CHAMPION CLUSTER. No. 1546. A distinct and valuable variety, growing in clusters, from ten to twenty large sized, smooth and well shaped Tomatoes on one bunch. They are very smooth, and free from inequalities. The color is a rich dark crimson, and the flesh is very solid. APPLE-SHAPED. No. 1547. The fruit is somewhat flattened, inclining towards a globular shape, deepened about the stem, but smooth and regular in its general outline. The skin is of a deep rich crimson color, and the flesh a bright rose color; the rind being thick and hard, and not readily reduced to a pulp when cooked. It is early and hardy, keeps well, and for salad is much esteemed. THE CONQUEROR. No. 1548. One of the earliest varieties, with fruit of a good size and very uniform in shape. BERMUDA. No. 1549. Extensively grown in the Southern States, and is of little value or merit when grown in the North. Its color is rose-red, and it varies considerable in size. FEJEE. No. 1550. The fruit is either a bright red or pinkish color, very firm, well flavored, and is a good late Tomato. ARLINGTON. No. 1551. This is one of the earliest varieties. The fruit is of a good size, and is very uniform in shape. GENERAL GRANT. No. 1552. This is of a superior quality. The fruit is large and ripens rapidly and thoroughly. THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 359 FIG, OB BED PEAB. No. 1553. A small red pear-shaped species. The flesh is either pale-red or pink, and very firm. It is very little used except for preserving and for making Tomato figs. YELLOW PLUM. No. 1554. A beautiful variety, used principally for pickling. BED CHEBEY. No. 1555. A small early variety of the size and shape of a cherry, and is used for pickling. STEAWBEBEY, OE WINTEE CHEEEY. No. 1556. The fruit has a pleasant strawberry-like flavor, and is much esteemed. GEEEN GAGE. No. 1557. Resembles a yellow plum in shape and color, and is excellent for preserving. YELLOW CHEBEY TOMATO. No. 1558. This is a yellow variety of the Bed Cherry Tomato, differing only in color. YELLOW PEAE, OB FIG SHAPED. No. 1559. A sub-variety of the red pear-shaped Tomato, with a clear, semi-transparent yellow skin and yellow flesh. It is used for pickling and preserving. QUEEN. No. 1560. A variety speedily grown for canning. The fruit somewhat resembles the Trophy in appearance. CANADA VICTOE. No. 1561. This is one of the earliest, of a medium size, and is very symmetrical in shape. 360 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. HATHAWAY' s EXCELSIOR. No. 156 1 2. This is an early Tomato, medium sized, smooth, firm, and of excellent quality. GOLDEN TROPHY. No. 1563. Identical in form and size with the Trophy, but its color is a beautiful canary-yellow, being sometimes streaked lightly with red. It is well suited for preserving, as well as for table use. ISLAND BEAUTY. No. 1564. The fruit is large and medium early, resembling the Trophy in appearance, and is produced in clusters of about ten finely formed Tomatoes in a bunch. It is deep crimson in color, and of the best quality. TOMATOES FOR RELISH. No. 1565. Select ripe and firm Tomatoes of equal size, wipe them clean and slice them an eighth of an inch thick. Serve them on relish dishes the same as cucumbers, with some finely sliced green onions around the edge of the dish. Or dip them into boil- ing water for one minute, then peel and slice them, sprinkle them with salt, and serve them plain or mixed with cucumbers, with some finely sliced green peppers on each end of the dish. Serve with them a mustard and oil sauce, into which add some finely chopped chives and parsley. TOMATO SALAD, PLAIN. No. 1566. Peel and slice the Tomatoes as in No. 1565. Season them with salt, pepper, olive oil and vinegar, and garnish with finely sliced celery. NOTE. Baw Tomatoes may be used to garnish green salads. TOMATO SALAD WITH CUCUMBERS. No. 1567. Peel and slice the Tomatoes as in No. 1565, and season them with salt and pepper. Then slice the same quantity of cucum- bers, sprinkle them with salt and set them aside for twenty minutes. Then press out the water, and put them in a salad bowl with the Tomatoes. Add a little finely chopped parsley, a little oil and vinegar, and mix the whole well together without breaking the Tomatoes. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 361 The Tomatoes can be put in a salad bowl with the cucumbers, and a light Mayonnaise sauce poured over them, with a little mus- tard and cream added to the sauce. Garnish with the hearts of lettuce. TOMATO SALAD, SPANISH STYLE. No. 1568. Prepare the Tomatoes as in No. 1567, add some sliced green peppers, and season highly. TOMATO SALAD, GERMAN STYLE. No. 1569. Prepare the Tomatoes as in No. 1567, add some sliced green onions and a little anise seed. TOMATO SALAD, HESKETH STYLE. No. 1570. Peel the Tomatoes and slice them a quarter of an inch thick. Put a layer of them in a plate or dish and season them with salt and pepper. Then on these put another layer and season as before. Set them in a cool place for half an hour before using, in a slanting position, and, with a spoon, gather up the juice occasion- ally and pour it over the Tomatoes. When ready, dress them carefully in a salad bowl, with some finely chopped parsley over them. Mash the yolk of a hard boiled e No. 1699. This salad is composed of Booked green peas, string beans, cut in pieces one inch long, sliced potatoes and white beans. Each kind is dressed separate and seasoned with pepper, salt, oil and vinegar. Make a dressing for it of six spoonfuls of oil and four of wine vinegar, mixed thoroughly, with the addition of a little salt and pepper. Then add a little finely-chopped parsley and burnet, and pour it over the salad. Garnish it with some hearts of lettuce, hard boiled eggs and fillet of anchovies. VEGETABLE SALAD, AMERICAN STYLE. No. 1700. Slice finely equal quantities of cooked artichoke bottoms, celery, celeriac, potatoes, carrots and beets, and have the pieces about equal in size. Put them in a salad bowl and add some shelled beans white or green. Season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, mix them gently together, then cover the bowl and set it in a cool place to allow the salad to macerate for one hour. When it is ready to serve add a little more oil and vinegar, and dress it in a salad bowl. Garnish properly. MACEDOINE VEGETABLE SALAD. No. 1701. Cook the vegetables as described in Macedoine Gar- niture, No. 1688, and cut them in any shapes desired, with fancy cutters. When they are cooked, keep each kind separate, drain them and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. When ready to serve the salad, the vegetables are mixed and nicely dressed in a salad bowl with a Ravigote or Mayonnaise sauce. For a large salad it is best to dress each vegatable in bunches, alternating them, and, when they are nicely decorated, the effect is pleasing. This salad is. generally composed of the following vegetables in equal quantities, but they can be varied, according to the season: Green peas, aspar- THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 397 agus-tops, beans, beets, carrots, turnips, artichoke-bottoms, and turnip-rooted celery. NOTE. The carrots and turnips should be parboiled, then immersed in cold water and cooked. Use only young and sweetly flavored turnips; if they are old or strongly flavored, they will spoil the salad. DIPLOMATIC SALAD. No. 1702. Cut the tender parts of two stalks of celery in small strips about two inches long. Put them in a bowl, add three or four truffles cut in short Juliennes, and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Then cover the bowl and set it in a cool place for half an hour. Rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs through a fine sieve, and put them in a bowl that has been rubbed with a clove of garlic. Add a teaspoonful of French mustard, work them well together with a wooden spoon, dilute it with oil and vinegar, and season with salt and pepper. Now drain the celery and truffles and put them in a salad bowl. Add the above dressing and a little finely- chopped chives and parsley, mix the whole well together, and then arrange it properly. VEGETABLE SALAD, ITALIAN STYLE. No. 1703. Prepare some turnips and carrots, and with a column cutter the size of a twenty-five cent piece, cut out as many pieces as are desired. Cook them in some lightly salted water, and when they are cold slice them finely in pieces of even size. Add to them equal quantities of boiled potatoes and pickled beets, cut in the same manner. Put them in a bowl, season with salt, pepper, oil and vin- egar, and add a little Eavigote sauce. Mix them gently together, arrange them in a salad bowl, and garnish with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters. VEGETABLE SALAD, PARISIAN STYLE. No. 1704. Eub the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs through a fine sieve, put them in a bowl, and add one teaspoonful of Anchovy paste, and one of French mustard. Mix them well together with a wooden spoon while diluting it slowly with oil and vinegar. Slice the following vegetables nicely, and put them in a bowl: One beet, one celeriac root, two potatoes, and two pickles. Season with salt and pepper, and add the above dressing with a little finely- cut tarragon and rampion. Mix the whole well together, put it in a salad bowl, arrange it properly, and garnish with the whites and yolks of hard-boiled eggs cut separately in small pieces, and some capers and stuffed olives. 398 HAEDEB'S AMERICAN COOKERY. VEGETABLE SALAD, RUSSIAN STYLE. No. 1705. Cook some celery, or celeriac, and some potatoes. When they are cold, trim them nicely, slice them finely, and put them in a bowl with some raw sliced gherkins, a raw sliced apple, a few capers, and a few boned Anchovies. Season with pepper, salt, oil and vinegar, add a little grated horse-radish and mustard, and mix the whole gently together. Set it aside for half an hour, and then drain off the moisture and dress it in a salad bowl with a Mayonnaise dressing. SAUERKRAUT SALAD, GERMAN STYLE. No. 1706. Parboil half a pound of Sauerkraut for twenty min- utes; then drain it in a colander, and pour some cold water over it to refresh it. Then drain it in a napkin. Prepare an equal quantity of red cabbage, cut it in fine shreds, and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Add three spoonfuls of vinegar, let it cook over a brisk fire for five minutes, and then drain it. Cut one large white onion in small pieces (chopped). Throw them in boiling water for one minute; then immerse them in cold water, and drain them on a napkin. Now put the sauerkraut, red cabbage and onion into a bowl, add a soup-spoonful of grated horse-radish, and a little finely-chopped chervil. Season with salt, pepper and vinegar. Mix the whole well together, arrange it properly in a salad bowl, and garnish with olives and beets. VEGETABLE SALAD, CALIFORNIA STYLE. No. 1707. Slice one white sweet onion finely. Peel two cucum- bers, cut them in halves lengthwise, scoop out the seeds, and then cut them in fine slices. Peel four tomatoes, and cut them in slices one-quarter of an inch thick. Put a layer of the onion in a salad bowl, then a layer of the tomato, and a layer of cucumbers on top, sprinkling each layer with bread crumbs, and seasoning with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. On top of these three layers put three more layers exactly the same as the first three. Cover the bowl, and set it in a cool place. Always make this salad two hours before serving it. Sprinkle a little finely-chopped parsley and chives over it, and serve it as it is. MIXED VEGETABLE SALAD, SWEDISH STYLE. No. 1708. Select equal quantities of the following cooked vege- tables, and cut them nicely with a fancy cutter : young carrots, THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 399^ beets and potatoes. Put them in a bowl, and add some smoked beef-tongue cut in small thin slices, a boned and skinned pickled herring cut in small pieces, and one apple, peeled and finely sliced. Season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and add a little finely- chopped parsley and chervil, and a few spoonfuls of mustard dress- ing. Mix them well together, arrange them properly in a salad bowl, and garnish with stoned olives and boned anchovies. HOW TO PREPARE MOULDS WITH ASPIC JELLY, FOR SALADS. No. 1709. The salads following this recipe are different from the foregoing, being made in moulds, and dressed on stands or borders, or on bread masked with butter for a relief and as a convenience in garnishing. They are used principally at balls and banquets, and when nicely executed they form a handsome ornament to a table. Much depends upon the proficiency of the party making them; and special care should be taken to have the Aspic jelly clear, and not too firm. In cold weather it need not be as solid as when the weather is warm. They may be made in Charlotte or Timbal moulds, if desired; but it is best to use the regular Salad moulds that are made expressly for this purpose. They contain a false mould, which is inserted after the mould is ornamented. The space around this false mould is filled with jelly, and allowed to become firm. Warm water is then put in the centre of the mould, so it can be removed easily, which leaves the center vacant, to be filled with the salad. Then smooth off the top evenly, and set the mould aside to- get cold until ready for use. Then dip the mould in warm water, wipe it dry, and then turn it out on the dish it is to be served on. The mould is prepared, arranged and decorated as follows : Put the mould in a pan containing some cracked ice, and let it get cold. Put some cool Aspic jelly in the mould, and turn the mould around constantly until it is thinly and evenly coated with the jelly on the sides and bottom. (It takes considerable practice to do this per- fectly.) Drain your vegetables, and dry them well on a napkin. Dip each piece separately in a cool Aspic jelly, and arrange them in the bottom and around the sides of the mould in the 'design that you prefer, alternating the colors. When this is done, line k with another coating of jelly, set it aside to get cold, and then fill the centre with the prepared salad. Truffl.es, capers, olives and the whites of eggs can be used to decorate the mould, instead of vege- tables, if desired. VEGETABLE SALAD WITH ASPIC JELLY, MACEDOINE. No. 1710. This salad is composed of cooked asparagus tops, carrots, beets, celeriac, cauliflower, green peas and flageolet beans.. 400 HABDEB'S AMEBICAN COOKEBY. Cook each kind separately, and when cold season with pepper, salt, oil and vinegar. Decorate the mould with Aspic jelly and the above vegetables, as in No. 1709. Put the remainder of the vegetables in a bowl with a few spoonfuls of Mayonnaise dressing made with Aspic jelly. Put the salad in the centre of the mould to fill it. Smooth the top, and set the mould aside to get firm. When ready to serve, dip the mould in warm water, then turn the salad out on the stand on which it is to be served. Garnish the base with aspar- agus tops, as in No. 85, and artichoke-bottoms, as in No. 46, with some hard boiled eggs cut in halves, and finely-chopped Aspic jelly. VEGETABLE SALAD WITH ASPIC JELLY, JABDINIERE. No. 1711. Prepare and cook the vegetables as directed in No. 1692. Drain them, keep each kind separate, season with pepper, salt, oil and vinegar, decorate the mould with Aspic jelly and the vegetables, as in No. 1709. Then proceed as in No. 1710, and gar- nish with a cold Jardiniere as in No. 1693. VEGETABLE SALAD WITH ASPIC JELLY, ITALIAN STYLE. No. 1712. Cut out one dozen potatoes with a round cutter about the size of a twenty-five cent piece, and slice them finely. Then take two pickled beets and cut and slice them the same way. Put them in separate bowls and season with pepper, salt, oil and vinegar. Prepare the fillet of one or two flounders, scrape off the skin, and put them in a buttered flat saucepan. Season with salt and pepper and add a little white wine. Then cook them, keeping them white, and when done put them on a platter and lay them aside to get cold. When cold cut them in scallops, add the same quantity of fillet of boned Anchovies, and season with pepper, salt, oil and vinegar. Decorate the mould with Aspic jelly, capers, olives, anchovies and the whites of hard boiled eggs, as in No. 1709. Put the floun- ders and anchovies in a bowl and add to them double their quantity of potatoes and beets, after they are drained. Also add some capers and a few spoonfuls of Mayonnnaise dressing made with Aspic jelly. Mix them gently together and then fill the centre of the mould. Smooth off the top evenly and set it in a cool place until ready for use. When dressing it garnish with hard boiled eggs and chopped Aspic jelly. BEAN SALAD, WITH ASPIC JELLY, GEBMAN STYLE. No. 1713. Boil two pounds of dry white beans, keep them whole and let them get cold in their broth. Select enough of the most THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 401 perfect beans to decorate a Charlotte mould, splitting half of them in halves to give a variety to the decoration. Drain the remaining beans in a colander, then put them in a bowl, season with pepper, salt, oil and vinegar, and add a little finely-chopped parsley or chives. Also add a few spoonfuls of Mayonnaise dressing, made with Aspic jelly, mix the whole well together, and then fill up the centre of the mould. Smooth off the top and set it aside to get firm. Finish it the same as the other moulds are finished. CCXXVI. French VETCH, OR TARE. German Vesce. Wicke. No. 1714. This is a leguminous plant having several varieties, all of which, in properties and habits, resemble the common pea, the seeds being used for food. It is not cultivated to any extent, as it is not prolific. It is cultivated like green peas, and is pre- pared for the table in the same manner as peas. It is also .ground, mixed with corn or rye, and made into bread. ARTICLE CCXXVII. WATER-MELON. Melon d'Eau. Wasser Melone. No. 1715. The Water-melon is a tropical fruit that is largely and extensively cultivated in the United States. The fruit is roundish or oblong, and in color it is green or of variegated green shades. It is much more vigorous than the musk-melon, though inferior to the cantaloupe. Its abundant and cooling juice renders it very refreshing during summer. It is less liable to injury from insects than an} r other variety of melon. CULTURE. No. 1716. Water-melons require a rich, though rather sandy soil for their best development, and thrive best in warm latitudes, 26 402 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. growing best in the Southern and Southwestern States. Cultivate- exactly the same as for musk-melons, except that the hills should be just double the distances apart, namely, eight and ten feet. GEORGIA RATTLESNAKE. No. 1717. One of the largest varieties, and stands shipment long distances better than any other. It is the sort used at the South for northern shipments. It is a beautifully striped variety, of very large size, with red flesh of the finest flavor. CUBAN QUEEN. No. 1718. One' of the largest melons known, often attaining up- wards of eighty pounds in weight. The vine is vigorous, and the skin striped, light and dark green. The flesh is bright red, solid, very crisp and sugary. CALIFORNIA OR IMPROVED ODELLA. No. 1719. One of the best sorts for shipping purposes, as it has a tough, thin rind, which enables it to stand an amount of hand- ling that would crack open other varieties. The flavor is excellent and quite distinct. ORANGE. No. 1720. So called from its peculiar rind, which separates from the flesh when fully ripe. The flesh is red, tender and sweet. CITRON AND CALIFORNIA PIE MELON. No. 1721. These melons are used in making sweetmeats and preserves by removing the rind and seeds, cutting the flesh in pieces of equal size, then boiling them in syrup which has been flavored with ginger, and then proceeding the same as with musk-melons in Nos. 922 and 923. They ripen late in season and will keep until December. The flesh is white, solid, tough, seedy, very squashy, and unpalatable in its crude state. BLACK SPANISH. No. 1722. Their small vines enables them to be grown closer than any other sorts. They are round in form, and dark-green in color. The flesh is scarlet, rich and sugary in flavor. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 403 SCALY BARK. No. 1723. A very popular variety in the South, which will keep in good condition after pickling longer than any other sort. The vines are large, with coarse foliage, the fruit large and oblong, and the flesh red and very tender. MOUNTAIN SWEET. No. 1724. A large, long oval variety. The flesh is scarlet and quite solid to the center, very sweet and delicious. ICE CREAM. No. 1725. This is medium-sized. The flesh is scarlet and very sweet. A good variety for general culture. FERRY'S PEERLESS. No. 1726. The best melon for general use, particularly in the North. The vine is vigorous, hardy and productive. The fruit is medium, oval, and finely mottled with light and dark-green, some- what in stripes. The rind is thin, and the flesh bright scarlet, solid to the centre, crisp, nutty, and sweet. EARLY JERSEY. No. 1727. One of the earliest varieties, above the medium size, oval round, and light-green in color. The flesh is scarlet, solid, finely grained, very sweet and juicy. HOW TO SERVE MELONS. No. 1728. Water-melons are served as a relish, or for dessert, and should be kept in a cool place for some time before serving. Cut a piece from each end, and then cut the melon in a zig-zag shape in the centre, which will divide the melon in half, and set each half on a dish with a napkin. Place them on the table, and when ready to use, cut them in slices. NOTE. Cut a plug out of the melon, pour a glass of brandy inside, replace the plug, keep the melon in a cool place, and occasionally turn it. In twenty-four hours the brandy will be absorbed, and the melon ready to serve. This makes a delicious change from the ordinary way of eating melons. 404 HAEDEK'S AMEEICAN COOKERY. ARTICLE ccxxvill. French WHEAT. German Frome.nl. Weitzen. No. 1729. Wheat is a plant of the genus Triticum. The seed of this plant furnishes a white flour for bread and, next to rice, is the grain most generally used by the human race. The varieties are numerous, comprising the Summer and Winter Wheat, the Bearded Wheat, the White Wheat and the Bald Wheat. The Summer and Winter Wheat furnishes most of the grain that is used for food. WINTER WHEAT. MICHIGAN BRONZE OR MEDITERRANEAN HYBRID. No*. 1730. This is a cross between the old Diehl and the Ked Mediterranean, having the fine flavoring quality and bearded head of the latter and the close compact head of the former. It is a vigor- ous grower and is well adapted to light soil. The heads are some- what club-shaped, short, but very compact, and are squarely filled out at both ends, containing about sixteen breasts of from three to four kernels each. The berry is of a bright amber color, of medium size and very handsome. VALLEY. No. 1731. This variety originated in Ohio and yields enormously, but needs rich ground and good cultivation. The heads are bearded, long and loose, and have a peculiarly rough and ragged appearance. They contain from sixteen to twenty breasts, having three or four kernels each. The berry is long and hard, and of an amber color. MARTIN'S AMBER. No. 1732. A hybrid variety that originated in the eastern part of Pennsylvania. While young, the plants lie spread out over the ground, affording a good protection to their own roots. The straw is tall and very stiff, standing up better than most varieties. The leaves are dark green and quite free from rust. It has a large, bald, smooth, well-filled head, containing from sixteen to eighteen breasts, and is rather late in ripening. The berry is of a light amber color, good size and very plump and handsome. It has a very thin hull and makes but little bran; however it yields a large return of flour of the very best quality. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 405 DEMOCRAT. No. 1733. A variety that originated in Pennsylvania and is be- coming very popular in Canada. It is very early. The heads are bearded and compact, with white chaff. The berry is of a very light amber color and is superior for milling qualities. FULTZ. No. 1734. Although not as showy in the field as the Clawson, the Fultz will generally yield quite as much grain that is of a better milling quality. It is much esteemed in Pennsylvania and Ohio, and is becoming popular elsewhere. The straw stands up well. The leaves are large, of a dark green color and free from rust. It has smooth, medium-sized, compact heads, containing from sixteen to eighteen breasts of two and three kernels each. The berry is of a dull amber color, medium in size and long. CLAWSON. No. 1735. A smooth white Wheat, with red chaff. It is a supe- rior variety. BED MEDITERRANEAN. No. 1736. This is the imported variety fully acclimated. The heads are bearded and well filled. It succeeds well in nearly all localities, and ripens early. WINTER PEARL. No. 1737. The heads are beardless, regular and very handsome, about five and a half inches long, with from eighteen to twenty breasts of four grains each. The kernels are about the size of the Clawson, hard, plump, and of a light amber color. It produces abundantly in good wheat fields. SPRING WHEAT. THE INVINCIBLE. No. 1738. This is a beardless variety of remarkably robust and vigorous growth. The straw is strong, stiff, well glazed and healthy. The heads are from four to five inches long, compact and well filled. The berry is of a light amber color, plump, hard and very heavy. It is wonderfully prolific. The grains ripen quickly and evenly. 406 HARDER' s AMERICAN COOKERY. Care should therefore be taken not to let it get over-ripe before harvesting. ADAMANT WHEAT. No. 1739. This is one of the hardiest and most flinty varieties in cultivation, and is very productive and vigorous. It is a beard- less, white-chaff' variety, with long narrow heads, closely set with medium sized amber-colored kernels, which produce flour of a very superior quality. It is one of the most desirable sorts for cultiva- tion in the Northwest, Colorado and the Pacific Coast, where hard wheat is the favorite sort. GREEN MOUNTAIN WHEAT. No. 1740. A beardless variety much cultivated in Vermont. The straw is of a light yellow color, very strong, and free from rust. The heads average five inches in length, and are somewhat tapering. The kernels are white, large, plump, very hardy and productive. NOTE. For any other Wheat or cereal, see the Articles on Barley, Buckwheat, Corn, etc. WHEAT BROTH. No. 1741. Soak six ounces of Wheat in water over night. Then drain and parboil it for two minutes, after which drain it again, and put it in a saucepan with a quart of veal broth. Let it boil slowly for an hour, and season it lightly. SOUP CREAM OF GREEN FARINA WHEAT. No. 1742. Green wheat can be procured in grains or in the same way as Farina (Semoule). The latter is preferred, as it cooks much quicker. It is greatly relished by Germans. Put four quarts of broth in a saucepan, and when it boils drop in slowly one pound and a half of the green Farina Wh eat, stirring it gently until it boils. Then, set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly, and add a faggot of parsley garnished with leeks and green onions. Let it cook for one hour, then skim it, take out the faggot, and strain the soup through a fine sieve. Then put the soup in a saucepan, set it on the fire, and stir it until it boils. Season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar. Let it boil slowly for fifteen minutes, then set it on the side of the fire to keep warm. Before serving add six ounces of butter, and half a pint of cream, diluted with the yolks of eight raw egg<. Mix it well until the butter is melted. THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 407 ARTICT.K ccxxix. French WINGED PEA. German Pois Rame. Die Spargelerbse. No. 1743. A hardy creeping annual plant. The pods are three inches long, with four longitudinal leafy membranes. The seeds are globular, slightly compressed, and yellowish-white in color. The ripened seeds are used as a substitute for coffee, and the pods, while young and tender, are prepared the same as string beans. Sow it in double drills an inch and a half deep and two feet apart, the single rows being made twelve inches from each other. ARTICLE; ccxxx. WITLOEF. Romaine blanche. Weisser Eiidivieti No. 1744. This is a distinct and comparativelv new vegetable, somewhat resembling chicory in habit. It produces a moderate sized and beautiful white heart, similar in shape to a cos lettuce, and when prepared as the latter is, or as a s ilad, it will be found a valuable acquisition to the winter vegetables. ccxxxi. WOOD SORREL. Oseille OxaUd>>. Sourklee, No. 1745. Wood sorrel is a hardy perennial plant, growing naturally in woods, in cool and shaded situations. The leaves are radical, inversely heart-shaped, and produce three together at the extremity of quite a long stam. The leaves possess a pleasant acid taste and are mixed with salads, to which they impart an agreeably refreshing flavor. The plant is considered one of the most valuable of all vegetables that are cultivated for their acid properties. 408 HAKDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. CULTURE. No. 1746. It may be propagated either by seeds or by dividing the roots. The soil should be rich and moist. Sow it in April, in shallow drills, twelve inches apart. ccxxxil. French WORMWOOD. German Armoise ou Absinthe. Vermouth. No. 1747. A hardy perennial, shrubby plant, three feet in height. The leaves are deeply cut or divided, pale-green above, and hoary beneath. The leaves when bruised have a strong, some- what pungent yet aromatic odor, and are proverbial for their intense bitterness. An infusion of the leaves and tops of the common Wormwood i& used as a vermifuge tonic and stomachic. The leaves are also bene- ficial to poultry. ROMAN WORMWOOD. No. 1748. Resembles the common Wormwood, but the leaves are smaller and more finely cut; pale-green above and hoary on the under surface. It is preferred to the common for medicinal pur- poses, as the taste is more agreeable and its odor less pungent. SEA WORMWOOD. No. 1749. The leaves are numerous, long, narrow and hoary, and bitter to the taste. When bruised they emit a strong, pleasant aromatic flavor. CULTURE. No. 1750. They develop best in warm, dry, light soil. They are propagated the same as other hardy shrubs. If sown by seeds, sow them in April in drills. Transplant the seedlings in rows, two- feet apart, and a foot between the seedlings. GENERAL INDEX. NO. ALEXANDER 1 Culture 2 Perfoliate . . 3 AMBROSIA. ANGELICA Culture Syrup Preserved or Candied. ANISE ............................. 9 Culture .......................... 12 Anisette Cordial ................. 10 Pumpernickel ................... 11 AROMATIC, Medicinal and Pot Herbs 13 Culture .......................... 14 Varieties ......................... 15 ALLSPICE, or Aromatic Nigelle Culture .................. ARTICHOKE Culture Green Large Globe How to Prepare for Cooking With Hollandaise Sauce With Butter Sauce With Mayonnaise or Viniagrette . . With Oil or Poivrade Sauce With Oil and Vinegar Sauce Barigoule Barigoule ....... Italian Style Fried, Italian Style Lyonnaise Stuffed, Bordelaise Stuffed, American Style Tossed (saute) in Butter Puree for Garniture Croquettes Soup, Puree Soup, Cream Pickled How to Cook Pickled Artichokes. Preserved Whole Preserved in Quarters Puree Preserved Jerusalem 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 47 48 49 50 51 5 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS 35 How to Prepare 35 Stuffed, Clara Louise Kellogg Style. 36 Stuffed, Pioneer Style 37 Stuffed, Italian Style 38 Fricassee 39 Fried, Villeroi S yle 40 Spanish Style 41 Macedoine . 42 Provengale 43 With Fine Herbs 44 Stewed for Garniture 45 For large Cold Garniture 46 Preserved in Cans 55 ASPARAGUS 65 Culture 66 Colossal 67 Giant 68 Crossbred 69 Small'Defiance 70 How to Prepare for Cooking 71 With Butter Sauce 72 With Hollandaise Sauce 73 Pieuioutaise 74 Pompadour 75 Spanish Style 76 With Oil and Vinegar 77 Puree for Garniture 84 Soup Puree, Conde 89 Puree, Royal 90 " Puree, St. George 91 " Cream, Countess 92 Preserved in Salt 93 Preserved in Cans 94 Syrup 96 ASPARAGUS TOPS 78 How to Prepare 78 With Sauce 79 Colbert &0 With Truffles, Imperial 81 With Mutton Gravy 82 For Garniture 83 For Large, Cold Garniture V 85 Salad, Plain 86 Salad, with Shrimps 87 410 GENERAL INDEX. ASPARAGUS TOPS -Continued. Salad, with Truffles, Royal 88 Preserved . . ... 93 ASPARAGUS BEAN. 97 BALLS 1188 Potatoes, American style 11SS Margot style 1189 (Quenelles) of Corn Me il 7L5 of Potatoes 1204 " of Semoule, Vill roi . . . 1405 Vegetables, Turkish style 1672 BALM 98 Culture . 99 BALM-MINT 100 BARLEY 101 Common 102 Mansury 103 Naked, or Hullness 101 Soup Cream, Neilsou style 105 Soup Cream, Marie Louise style. . 106 Soup Cream, Furr igut styL- 107 Broth, for Invalids 108 Water, for Invalids 109 Water, for Gargling Ill Cream, for Invalids 110 BASIL SWEET 112 Culture 113 BATTER for Frying Vegetables 1697 BAY, OR LAUREL LEAVES ( Common ) 114 ' (Larust ue) 115 BEANS 116 Culture of the Dwarf or Bush Bean 117 Early Feegee 1 18 Early Eed Valentine 119 White Valentine 120 Gallega, or Large Refugee 121 Early Mohawk 122 Black Wax or Butter 123 White Wax 124 Ivory Pot Wax 125 Canadian Wonder 126 Golden Refugee 127 Crystal White Wax 128 Golden Wax 124 Refugee 130 Large White/Kidney 131 White Marrowfat 132 Dw*rf Soissou 133 ) ole Running 134 Large White Lima 135 Small Lima or Sieva . .136 BEANS Continued. Dreer's Improved Lima 137 Dutch Case Knife 138 Speckled Cranberry 139 Scarlet Liuuner 140 Giant Wax 141 German Wax Pole ... 142 English or Broad 143 Early Mazagan 144 Broad Windsor 145 Sword Long Pod 146 How to Prepare String Beans for Cooking 147 (String) English Style . 148 Mai, re d' Hotel U9 With Fine Herbs 150 " Lyonuaise 1">1 Poulette 152 " Bre tonne l")3 " German Style ... 154 With Cr an 155 " Country Style 15'5 Preserved in Suit 157 " " " Brine 158 " Cms 159 " Salted, How to Prepare for Cooking 160 S.lad 161 " " German Style 162 " For Garniture 163 (Wax) Maitre d'Hotel 164 (White, or Kidney). With Puree of Onion, S mbise 165 Country Style 166 White or Kidney Soup Pu ee, Newton Style 198 (Dry White) Maitre d Hot 1 173 " " German Style ... 174 ' " With Cream Sauce. . . 175 " " Bretonne 176 ' " Robert 177 WithB.con 178 " ' ' Marrow 179 Salad 181 " " For Garniture 182 Puree- White 183 " " Brown 184 With Celery. 185 " " Soup Puree, Pioneer Style... 201 " St.Geor^e 202 Green Flageolet, Maitre d'Hotel. . . 167 ' German Style 168 " With String Beans 169 " " Puree for Garni- ture.. ... 171 GENERAL INDEX. 411 BEANS Continued. Green Flageolet, Preserved in Cans 172 " " Soup, Puree, St. Germain. ...... 198 Soup, Puree, Sou- bise 197 " Soup. Cretin, Le- land Style 200 Red, Bourguignonne 186 " Cardinal, for Fast Days 187 " Donohoe Style, for Fast Days 188 Dry Red. Soup, Puree, Conde 203 Black, With Butter. 189 " Soup Puree, Faubonne 199 Soup, Puree for Fast Days 20 i For Garniture 170 Broad 190 " With Cream, Poulette 191 "Lima 192 ' With Butter Sauce 193 " French Style 194 " Macedoiue 19") Baked in Pots IttO Notes 20 > BEETS .. 206 Culture 207 Egyptian Turnip 208 1'astiau's Blood Turnip 209 Derning's Blood 210 Early Flat Bassano 211 Long Smo >th Blood Bed 212 Early Yellow 213 Pine Apple 214 Brazilian Variegated 215 Swiss Chard or Sea Kale 216 How to Prepare for Cooking 217 Boiled Beets Stewed 218 Stewed, Han iverain Style 219 with Cr- am Sauce 220 ' Butter " ^ 221 " St Ignatius ." 222 Roasted 223 For G trniture 221 Fritters, Chartreusse 225 Sugar 2-26 Jtiice for Soups 227 Salad with Vegetables 228 Pickled 229 " for Relishes, German Style. 230 " American " . 231 BENE 232 Culture 233 Bi-forined Leaved 234 Oval Leaved 235 Tri-fide Leaved. . . .236 BOLETUS (Esculent) 237 BORAGE 238 Culture 239 BORDERS Potatoes 1207 Rice 1285 Vegetables 1674 BREAD OF VEGETABLES 1681 BRIAR LEAVES 240 BROCOLI 241 Culture 242 White Cape 243 Purple Cape 244 Italian Style 245 With Hollandaise Sance 246 For Garniture 247 Soup Cream 243 tJROOKLINE OR SPEEDWELL.. 249 BROTH Barley f-.r Invalids. ... 108 Celery 473 Dande ion 651 Pectoral with Turnips 1651 Wheat 1741 BRUSSELS SPROUTS 250 Culture 251 Tall French 252 Dwarf Improved 253 How to Prepare for Cooking 254 With Fine Herbs 255 With Sauce 256 Spanish Style 257 For Garniture 258 " with Broiled Meats. 259 Puree for Garniture 280 BUCK'S-HORN OR COCK'S-HEAD PLANTAIN 261 Culture 262 BUCKWHEAT 263 Common 264 Silver Hulled 265 Cakes with Yeast 266 " Baking Powder 267 Baking of Cakes 268 BUGLOSS 269 Culture r 270 BURNET 271 Culture -272 BUTTER -Garlic 730 Horse-r:u)ish 761 CABBAGE 273 Culture 274 . E rly Jersey Wakefield 275 Early Etarnpes 276 412 GENERAL INDEX. NO. CABBAGE Continued. Early York 277 " Large York 278 " Sugar Loaf 279 Little Dixie 280 Henderson's Early Summer 281 Early Flat Dutch 282 " Dwarf Flat Dutch 283 " Winningstadt 284 1 ' Bleichfield Giant 285 Filder Kraut 286 Drumhead Short Stem 287 Early Large Schweinf urt 288 Imperial French Ox Heart 289 Eed Dutch, for Pickling 290 Fine Blood Eed 291 Marblehead 292 Late Flat Dutch 293 Large Drumhead. 294 Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead. 295 Green Glazed 296 Early Dwarf Ulm Savoy 297 Green Globe Savoy 298 American Savoy 299 Drumhead Savoy 300 Boiled 301 With Potatoes, Flamande 302 Braised, French Style 303 German Style 304 With Bac >n, Family Style 305 Stuffed 306 " Hunter's Style 307 Bismarck Style. 308 With Cream 309 Stewed, Spanish Style 310 With Quails or Partridges 311 Hot Slaw 312 Cold Slaw 313 Salad 314 Salad, Boston Style 315 Salad, with Cream, American Style 316 For Garniture 321 Soup 322 Soup, Served with Broth, Garbure 323 Pickled 324 Eed Cabbage Salad 317 Eed Cabb:>ge, German Style 318 Eed Cabbage, Hollandaise Style. . . 319 Eed Cabbage, Valencienne Style. .. 320 Eed Cabbage, Pickled, English 325 Sauer Kraut 326 Sauer Kraut, How to Make 327 Sauer Kraut, How to Prepare 'for Cooking 328 Sauer Kraut, German Style 329 Sauer Kraut, French Style 330 CABBAGE Continued. Sauer Kraut, Bavarian Style 331 Sauer Kraut, Flemish Style 332 Sauer Kraut, Baked, Dufour. 333 Sauer Kraut, Baked, with Fillet of Soles.., 334 Sauer Kraut, with Partridges or Quails 335 CAKES Batter 595 Buckwheat, with Yeast 266 Buckwheat, with Baking Powder. . 267 How to Bake Buckwheat Cakes. . . 268 Carolina, with Sab lyon Sauce 1513 Corn 594 Flannel 596 Flap Jacks, or Trimmed Lace 597 Graham Griddle 739 Green Corn 576 Corn Griddle 594 Potato 1201 Eice Glazed 1327 Eice Souffle 1326 CALABASH, OR COMMON GOURDS 336 CALAMINT 337 CANDIED ANGELICA 8 CANTALOUPE, or Persian Melons. 338 Germek 339 Geree 340 Daree 341 Green Hoosaine 342 Green Valencia 343 Ispahan 344 Melon of Keising , 345 Melon of Seen 346 How to Serve 347 Preserved in Cans 348 Preserved in Syrup 349 CAPERS 350 Pickled in Vinegar 351 Sauce 352 CAPILLAEY, OR VENUS HAIR.. 353 Syrup 354 CARAWAY 355 Culture 356 CARDOON 357 Culture 358 Large Spanish 359 The Ordinary 360 Artichoke-leaved. 361 Large Tours Solid 362 With Marrow 363 With Parmesan Cheese . . 364 GENEEAL INDEX. 413 CARDOON Continued. With Cream Sauce 365 With Essence of Ham 366 Fricassee 367 For Garniture 368 Puree.... 369 SaLtd, Spanish Style 370 Preserved 371 Puree Preserved 372 CARROT 373 Culture 374 Early French Forcing 375 Early Scarlet Ho n 376 Half Long Red (Stunted Roots) ... 377 Half Long Red Scarlet (Pointed Roots) 378 Early Half Long Scarlet Carenton. 379 Long Orange 380 Danvers 381 Altringham 382 Long White Belgian 383 Yellow Belgian 384 How to Prepare for Cooking 385 Maitre d'Hotel. 386 Stewed, German Style 387 With Butter Sauce 388 With Green Peas, Strasbourgeoise. 389 Stewed, Indian Style 390 Stewed, for Garniture 391 For large Garniture Flament 392 For small Garniture, Olive-shaped. 393 Garniture, Nivernaise 394 Puree for Garniture 395 Soup Puree, Aurore 396 Stanley 397 " " German Style 398 " " Crecy 399 " " " for Fast days... 400 Pickled 401 Preserved for Garniture 402 Puree Preserved for Soups or Gar- niture - 403 CASSEROLES of Rice 1318 CATERPILLAR 404 . Culture 405 CATNIP 406 Culture 407 CATSUP 408 Elderberry 692 Mushrooms 89G Tomato No. 1 15b9 " No. 2 1590 ' No.3 1591 " Epicurean 1592 NO. CAULIFLOWER 409 Culture 410 Early Snowball 411 " Dwarf Erfurt 412 " Paris 413 Nonpareil 414 Early London 415 Lenormand Short- stemmed 416 Walcheren 417 Algiers 418 Weith's Autumn Giant 419 How to Prepare for Cooking 420 With Butter Sauce 421 Hollandaise 422 Baked, au Gratin 423 Fried, Villeroi , 424 Fried in Batter 425 Italian Style 426 For Garniture 427 Puree for Garniture 428 Salad 429 Soup Cream 430 Soup Puree 431 Pickled 432 Preserved in Brine 433 CELERIAC, or Turnip Rooted Celery 434 Culture 435 Large Erfurt 436 Apple Shaped 437 Fried, Villeroi 438 Puree for Garniture 439 Stewed, Sanish Style 440 Stewed with Allemande or Cream Sauce.. 441 Use of Celeriac Tops 442 With Gravy (Half -Glaze) 443 For Soups 444 Preserved 445 Pickled 446 Preserved in Brine 447 CELERY 448 Culture 449 Dwarf White 450 Sandringham Dwarf White 451 Giant White Solid 452 White Walnut 453 Half Dwarf 454 Golden Dwarf 455 London Red 456 Major Clark Pink 457 Hood's Dwarf Red 458 How to Prepare for General Use. . . 459 Plain for Relishes 460 Dressed 461 With Gravy (Half-Glaze) 462 414 GENEKAL INDEX. NO, CELERY Continued. Ste A ed, Spanish Style 463 Stewed with Allemande Sauce. . . 4(>4 Stewed with Cream Sauce 465 Sauce 466 Fried Villeroi 467 With Parmesan Cheese 468 For Garniture 469 Puree For Garniture 470 With White or Brown Sauce 471 Salad 472 Broth 473 Soup, Pu ee, Spanish Style 474 Cream Soup ; 475 Puree, Preserved 476 Preserved 477 Preserved in Brine 478 Vinegar 479 Flavor 480 CENTAURY 481 CEPES 897 Bordelaise 897 Provincial 898 Polonaise 899 With Cream 900 Preserved 907 CHAMOMILE 482 Culture 483 CHAPON, FOR SALAD DRESS- ING 731 CHARTREUSSE 1675 CHERVIL 484 Culture 485 Tuberous-Hooted 486 CHESTNUT 487 Soup, Puree 488 Cream, Hunter's Style 489 ' ' Garbure, Polignac 490 Puree 491 Glazed 492 CHICK OR EGYPTIAN PEA 493 Culture 494 Ked 495 White 496 Yellow 497 CHICKLING WETCH, OR SPAN- ISH LENTIL 498 CHICCORY, OR SUCCORY 499 Culture 500 CHINESE SPINACH 501 CHINESE YAM, OR POTATO... 502 CHOCA.. . 519 NO. CHOCOLATE, PLAIN 520 Pot 521 With Eggs or Cream 522 Adulterated 523 CHIVES, OR WELSH ONION... 503 Common, or Bed Welsh Onion . . 504 White Welsh Onion 505 CHUFA, OR EARTH NUT 508 Culture 509 CICELY SWEET, OR SWEET SCENTED CHERVIL 510 CINNAMON 511 CLARY 512 CLAVARIA 513 CLOVES 514 COCOA 515 Grotind 516 Shell 517 Brouia 518 Choca 519 Plain Chocolate 5'20 Pot Chocolate 521 Chocolate, with Eggs or Cream. . .. 522 Adulterated Chocolate 523 COFFEE 524 Remarks on Mixing 525 For Family Use 526 Boiled 527 Boiled 528 German Style 529 Essence, for Cream 530 Ice 531 COLT'S-FOOT, Common 532 Culture 533 COLORS for Culinary Purposes.Green 1461 For Culinary Purposes, Yellow .... 1353 COMMON CHIVES * 506 Culture 507 CORIANDER 534 Culture 535 CORN 542 Culture 543 Early Marblehead 544 Dolly Button 545 Extra Early Adams 546 Early Minnesota 547 Early Bed Narragansett 548 Crosby's Extra Early 549 Russell's Early Prolific Sugar 550 Early Sweet Sugar 551 Moore's Early Concord Sweet 552 Black Mexican . . . 553 GENERAL INDEX. 415 CORN Continued. Excelsior 554 Amber Cream 555 Triumph . . 5n6 Egyptian Sweet 557 Mammoth Sweet . 558 Stowell's Evergreen Sweet 559 Burlington Early Adams 560 Early Canada 561 Lackawaxen 562 Early White Flint 563 Large Red Blazed 564 Early Golden Dent 565 Chester County Mammoth 566 Blunt's Prolific 567 Rice Corn for Parching 568 Boiled Green 569 With Milk or Cream 570 Stewed Green 571 With Beans ' . . 572 Succotash 573 With Tomatoes 574 Fritters 575 Cakes 576 How to Prepare Canned Corn 577 Roasted. 578 Soup Cream 579 Chowder 580 Hulled 581 Boiled Coarse Hominy 582 Fine Hominy 583 Fried Hominy 584 Hominy Croquettes 585 Baked Hominy 586 Corn Meal 587 Boiled Mush 588 Fried Mush . . . 589 Corn Meal Gruel 590 Polainta of Corn Meal with Cheese. 591 With Game 592 Crusts of Polainta, Milanaise Style. 593 Griddle Cakes 594 Batter Cakes 595 Flannel Cakes 596 Flap Jacks or Trimmed Lace 597 Corn Search . . 598 CORN POPPY, or Coquelicot 536 CORN SALAD, or Lamb Lettuce .... 537 Culture 538 Salad 539 With Beets 510 With Celery 541 COUCH GRASS 599 COS LETTUCE, OR ROMAINE . . 600 NO. COSTMARY, OR ALECOST 601 Culture 602 CRANBERRY 60S Culture 604 Sauce 605 CREAM. Barley for Invalids 110 Oat Meal 954 Spinach 1462 Sweet Potatoes for Pies 1512 CRESS. OR PEPPER GRASS 606 Culture 607 CRESS, GARDEN 608 CRESS, WATER 609 Culture 610 Its Use 611 CROQUETTES, Artichokes 48 Hominy 585 Potatoes 1185 Rice 1322 Rice, Creo'e Style 1325 CRUSTS. Morels 863 Mushrooms 890 Potatoes 1208 Po^iuta, Milanaise Style 593 Polaiuta, Italian Style 712 Rice, small 1313 " Victoria Style 1314 " " With Eggs and Cheese. 1315 " " " Curried Lobster.. 1316 " " " Puree of Chicken.1317 Semoule, small, Palermitaine 1404 Vegetables, Macedoine Style 1608 CUCUMBER 612 Culture 613 Early White Spine 614 Extra Large White Spine 615 Boston Pickling 616 Early Frame . 617 Early Cluster 618 Green Prolific 619 Early Russian 620 Long Green 621 English Frame or Forcing 6.2 With Cream Sauce 623 Poulette 624 Duchesse 625 Spanish Style 626 Stuffed, Spanish Style 627 Stuffed, Italian Style 6'28 Stuffed, Turkish Style 629 Scalloped for Garniture 630 " " " with Sauce 631 Puree . . 632 416 GENERAL INDEX. CUCUMBER Continued. Soup Cream, Queen Style 633 Soup Puree, Patti Style 634 With Soup Puree of Chicken 635 For Relish 636 Salad, French Style 637 " Spanish " 638 " German " 639 Preserved 640 Pickled 641 Pickled (Pickles or Gherkins) - 642 " Mixed Pickles 643 CUCKOO-FLOWER CRESS 644 CUMIN 645 CURRY 646 CUSTARD Coffee in Cups 1531 For Soup Garniture, Langtry Style. 1301 Onion, for Soup Garniture 1014 Tea in Cups 1 53 1 DANDELION 647 Culture 648 Large Leaved 649 Salad ... 650 Broth 651 DILL 652 Culture 653 DIET-DRINKS (Tisanes) 654 Decoction of Malt 655 Herb Juice 656 Iceland Moss or Lichen 657 Coltsfoot 658 Anti-bilious. 659 Emollient 660 Pectoral 661 Apozems 662 " Diuretic or Aperient 663 ' ' Vermifuge 664 " Anti-Scorbutic 665 " Astringent 666 " Stomachic 667 " Purgative 668 " German or White Decoc- tion... . 669 DUXELLE 744 EGG-PLANT 670 Culture 671 Early long Purple 672 Black Pekin 673 Large New York Purple . . 674 Improved Large Purple 675 Guadaloupe Striped 676 Ornamental Varieties 677 Fried, Freach Style 678 EGG-PLANT Continued. Breaded and Fried, American Style 679 Lyonnaise 680 With Cheese, Neapolitan Style 681 With Cream and Cheese 682 Puree 683 Stuffed, American Style 684 " Brazilian " 685 Turkish " 686 " Parisian " 687 For Garniture 688 Salad 689 EGYPTIAN CUCUMBER 690 ELDERBERRIES 691 Catsup 692 ELECAMPANE 693 ENDIVE OR CHICOREE 694 Culture 695 French Moss 696 Broad Leaved Batavian 697 Green Curled 698 With Cream Sauce 699 German Style 700 With Poacned Eggs 701 With Veal Gravy 702 Puree 703 Salad, French Style 704 ' German " 705 " American" 706 Soup Cream with Poached Eggs.. 707 Preserved in Cans 708 ESSENCE ... 530 Coffee, for Creams 530 Mushroom 894 Shallots 1411 Truffles 1606 Vegetables 724 1696 FAGGOT OF PARSLEY 1039 FARINA 709 Polainta of Corn Meal Piemontaise 710 " " "on Skivers. 711 Crusts (Polainta) of Corn Meal, Italian Style 712 Crusts, or Stands of Corn Meal, for Hot or Cold Side Dishes 713 Tartlets of Corn Meal..'. 714 Balls, or Quenelles of Corn Meal. . . 715 Fried Farina (Polainta) of Corn Meal, Eamequin 716 Polainta for Garnitures 717 Gruel.. ... 718 FECULA. 719 GENEEAL INDEX. 417 FENNEL (SWEET) 720 Culture 721 Stewed 722 FINE HERBS 742 Cooked 742 Eaw 743 In Sauce 745 FLAVORS ESSENCES AND EX- TRACTS 723 Essence of Vegetables 724 Flavor of Celery 480 " Vanilla 1669 FLOUR 725 Bepere 726 FRICASEE Artichoke Bottoms 39 Cardoous 367 Lentils 795 FRIED Artichokes, Italian Style 30 " Bottoms, Villeroi. 40 Cauliflower, Villeroi 424 " In Batter 425 Celeriac, Villeroi 438 Celery, Villeroi 467 Egg Plant, French Style 678 " " Breaded, American Style 679 Farina, Eamequin 716 Hominy 584 Hops 752 Lettuce, Stuffed 820 Morels 862 Mushrooms 589 Onions 991 Parsnips 1050 Potatoes, Saratoga Style 1192 Long Branch Style 1 1 93 " FrenchStyle 1194 " Julienne Style 1195 Parisian Style 1196 Puffed (Souffle) .1199 Salsify, in Batter 1374 " Villeroi 1375 " in Butter 1376 Squash, Stuffed, American Style.. .1491 " Boston Style 1492 Sweet Potatoes 1509 Puffed (Souffle). ..1510 Tomatoes 1571 FRITTERS Beets, Chartreusse 225 Carolina Cake, Nellie Grant Stsle.,1514 Corn 575 Parsnip 1052 27 FRITTERS Continued. Eice 1325 " (Subrics) 1323 Spinach ( Subrics) 1460 Sweet Potatoes. 1511 GARBURE 727 GARNITURES Artichoke Bottoms, Stewed 45 " " Large Cold... 46 Asparagus Tops 83 " " Large Cold 85 Beans, Dry White 182 " String 163 Beets ; . . 224 Brocoli 247 Brussel's Sprouts 258 " " for Broiled Meats 259 Cabbage 321 Cardo*>ns 368 Carrots Stewed for 391 " Flamant, Large 392 " Olive-shaped, Small 393 " Nivernaise 394 Cauliflower 427 Celery 469 Cucumbers, Scolloped 630 " with bauce 631 Egg Plant 688 Farina Polaiuta 717 Farmer's Style, Large 1690 Floral Style, Large 1694 Jardiniere, Large 1691 Small. 1692 " Cold 1693 Jerusalem Artichokes 63 Lettuce 822 Macedoine, Large 1686 " Small 1688 Cold ..1687 Morels 864 Mushrooms 889 Okra 964 Onions 1001 " Small Baked 1002 Onion Custard for Soups 1014 Parsley, Fried 1041. Plain 1042 Peas, Green 1087 Peasant Style, Large 1689 Peppers, Green 1118 Potatoes. 1202 Provincial, Large 1695 Eadishes 1256 Eice 1300 " Custard for Soup 1301 418 GENERAL INDEX. GARNITURES Continued. Spinach 1459 Tomatoes 1581 Truffles 1607 Cold 1608 Turnips, Brown 1641 " White 1642 Turnip C,.bbage 1661 GARLIC 728 Culture 729 Butter or Gascony Butter 730 Chapon for SaLtd Dressing 731 Puree 732 GHERKIN 733 GINGER 734 GLOBE CUCUMBER 735 GOOSE-FOOT, or White Quinoa... 736 Culture 737 GRAHAM FLOUR 738 Griddle Cakes 739 GRUEL Corn Meal 590 Farina. 718 Oat Meal 951 " Scotch 952 Oats 951 Kice 1312 ..1363 HERBS 740 Culture 741 Cooked 742 Kaw..; 743 Duxelle 744 Sauce 745 Dry 746 HOLLYHOCK, OR ROSE MAL- LOW 747 HOOSUNG OR OOSUNG 748 HOPS 749 Boiled with Sauce 750 Stewed " " 751 Fried 752 HOARHOUND 753 Culture 754 HORSE-RADISH 755 Culture 756 For Eelish 757 Sauce 758 " with Apples 759 " " Cream 760 Butter 761 Vinegar 762 HYSSOP 763 Culture 764 INDIAN STAR ANISE SEED 765 INFUSION FOR TURTLE SOUP.. 1411 JAPAN PEA 766 Culture 767 JASMINE 768 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE 57 Culture f>8 With Butter Sauce 59 Italian Style < Cracovienue . 61 Puree for Garniture 62 For Garniture 63 Soup Puree, Palestine 64 JUNIPER 769 KALE OR BORECOLE 770 Culture 771 Tall Green Curled Scotch 772 German Dwarf Purple 775 " Green 774 Dwarf Erfurt 775 Cottagers 776 With Cream 777 For Greens, with Salt Pork or Bacon 778- LAVENDER 77& LEEK 780 Culture 781 London Flag 782 Little Moutagne 783 Proliferous 18& Yellow Poiton. 785 Large Rouen 786- Soup, Puree Viennoise 787 LENTIL OR LENS 788 Culture 78i> Common 790 Green 791 Large 792 Small 793. Maitre d' Hotel 794 Fricassee 795 Puree, for Garnitures, Coude 796 Soup, Puree 797 " Conde 798 " Hunter's Style 799 LETTUCE 800 Culture 801 Early Tennis Ball 802 Black seeded Simpson 803 Simpson Early Curled 804 Early Boston Curled 805 " Prize Head (Ferry's) 806 GENERAL INDEX. 419 LETTUCE Continued. Hanson 807 Deacon 808 Early Curled Silesia 809 Frankfort Head 810 Large Drumhead 811 Philadelphia Butter 812 Brown Dutch 813 Green Fringed 814 White Paris Cos 815 Salamander 816 Braised, Spanish Style 817 German Style 818 Stuffed 819 " and Fried 820 With Cream 821 ' Gravy 822 For Garniture 823 Salads 824 With Consomme, Garbure 825 Water for Invalids 826 Preserved Whole 827 " in Cans 628 When Used in Vegetable Soups. . . 829 LICORICE 830 Culture 831 LIMA BEANS 832 Culture 833 Green 834 Mottled 835 LIME OR LINDEN TREE 836 LOVAGE 837 Culture 838 LUPINE 839 MACE 840 MACEDOINE Garniture, Large 1686 Garniture, Small 1688 Garniture, Cold 1687 Vegetables, American Style 1685 " German Style 1684 ' ' Mexican Style 1683 Spanish Styla 1682 MADRAS RADISH 841 MALLOW CURLED LEAVED... 842 MAR ANT A, OR ARROWROOT PLANT 843 Preparation of its Flour 844 Its Use 845 MARJORAM 846 Culture 847 Sweet 848 Common 849 Pot 850 Winter Sweet.., . 851 MARSH MALLOW 852 MELILOT 853 MINT 854 Culture , 855 Sauce, American Style 856 Sauce, French Style 857 MOREL 858 Poulette 859 Spanish Style 860 On Skivers 861 Fried 862 With Gratinated Crusts 863 For Garniture 864 Stuffed 865 MULLEN OR MULLEIN 866 MUSHROOMS 867 Culture 868 Common 869 Agaricus Comatus 870 Sweet, or Delicious K7 1 St. George 872 Blewitt's Blue Hats 873 Agaricus Primulas 874 Fairy King 875 How to Clean and Prepare 876 Cooked for General Purposes 877 With Allemande Sauce 878 With Espagnole Sauce 879 On Toast (Saute) 880 Puree 881 Broiled on Toast, Maitre d'Hotel. . 882 Broiled, Bordelaise , . 883 Provincial 884 Piemontaise 885 Use of Trimmings and Peelings. . . 886 Stuffed with Fine Herbs 887 Stuffed, Italian Style 888 For Garniture 889 With Gratinated Crusts : . 890 Baked in Shells 891 Poulette 892 With Cream Sauce, American Style 893 Essence of Fresh 894 Soya Sauce 895 Catsup 896 Cepes, Bordplaise 897 " Provincial 898 " Polonaise 899 " with Cream 900 " Preserved 907 Tartlets with Cream 901 In Shells, Russian Style 902 Dry 903 Preserved in Cans 904 " in Jars.. . 905 420 GENERAL INDEX. MUSHROOMS Continued. NO. Preserved Trimmings, for Fine Herbs 906 MUSKMELON 908 Culture 909 Beechwood 910 Christiana 911 Citron 912 Hardy Ridge 913 Xarge Eibbed, Netted 914 Nutmeg 915 Pineapple 916 :Skillman's Fine Netted 917 Victory of Bath 918 White Japan 919 For Eelishes 920 Pickled (Mangoes) 921 Preserved, Spiced 922 " in Syrup 923 MUSTARD 924 Culture 9-25 White 926 Chinese, or Pekin 927 Curled 928 Cut Leaved 929 Black 930 Charlock 931 Mixed, for Table Use 932 Anchovy 933 Eavigote 934 Sauce, for Deviled Me.its 935 NASTURTIUM 936 Culture 937 Small 938 Tall 939 Dark Flowering 940 Seed Buds, Pickled 941 NETTLE 942 NEW ZEALAND SPINACH 943 NUTMEG 914 OAK ^Common Wall Germander) 945 OATS 946 Black Champion 9i7 American Triumph 948 Russian White 949 Gruel 950 c< 951 " (Scotch) 952 Porridge 953 Cream of 954 OKRA 955 Culture 956 Dwarf Green , 957 OKRA Continued. Long Green 958 Fall, or Giant 959 Stewed, Plain 960 " with Tomatoes 961 " " Fine Herbs 962 Salad 963 For Garniture 964 For Soup 965 Dry- Its Use 966 Soup, with Chicken 967 ONIONS 918 Preparation of the Soil 969 Culture 970 How to Keep Through Winter 971 Remarks on Small 972 Early Bed Globe 973 Extra Early Bed 974 Large Eed Wetherfield 975 Large Yellow Dutch 976 Yellow Danvers 977 White Portugal, Silver Skin 978 White Silver Skin, for Pickling. . . . 979 White Globe 980 Large Mexican 981 Early Neopolitan Marzajola. 982 Giant Eocca 983 " White Italian Tripoli 984 New Queen 985 Eed, Yellow or White Bottom Sets 986. English Multiplier 987 Potato.... 988 Boiled, Plain 989 ' ' with Butter or Cream Sauce 990 Fried 991 Smothered 992 Glazed 993 Stuffed 994 " American Style 995 Puree ( Brown Soubise) 996 " (White " ) 997 Sauce, Brown .... 998 ' White 999 1 ' Brown Piquant 1000 For Garniture 1001 Small, Baked for Garniture, Span- ish Style 1002 Gravy 1003 " with Sage 1004 Juice 1005 Chopped for Fine Herbs, etc 1006 Green, for Eelish 1007 Peelings, their Use 1008 Soup 1009 " Stanislaus Style 1010 GENERAL INDEX. 421 ONIONS Continued. Soup with Milk 1011 " Puree, Bavarian Style 1012 " " Bretonne " ..1013 Custard for Garniture of Soups. . .1014 Soup, Garbure 1015 Pickled ..1016 " 1017 Vinegar 1018 ORACH, OR MOUNTAIN SPIN. ACH 1019 Green 1020 Lurid 1021 Purple 1022 Bed 1023 Eed Stalked Green 1024 " " White 1025 White 1026 ORRIS, OR IRIS ROOT 1027 OXALIS, OR TUBEROUS ROOT- ED WOOD SORREL 1028 Culture 1029 PAK-CHOI 1030 PALMATE- LEAVED RHUBARB. 1031 PALM CABBAGE 1032 PANADE OF RICE FLOUR, for Forced Meats 1321 PARSLEY 1033 Culture 1034 Fine Tripled Curled 1035 Carter's Fern Leaved 1036 Plain 1037 Hamburg or Turnip Rooted 1038 Faggot of 1039 Chopped. 1040 Fried for Garnishing 1041 For Garnishing 1042 PARSNIPS 1043 Culture 1044 Long Smooth Yellow 1045 " White Dutch. 1046 The Student 1047 Short Bound French 1048 With Butter Sauce 1049 Fried 1050 Mashed 1051 Fritters 1052 PATES Truffles, Bennett Style 1612 Vegetables, Small, American Style. 1679 " " French Style. ..1678 PATIENCE. . . . . 1053 NO. PEA-NUT 1054 Culture 1055 African 1056 Wilmington 1057 Tennessee 1058 PEAS 1059 Culture 1060 American Wonder 1061 Kentish Invicta .* 1062 Laxton's Alpha 1063 Early Tom Thumb 1064 Blue Peter 1065 Extra Early 1066 Little Gem 1067 Premium Green 1068 McLean Advancer 1069 Carter's Little Wonder 1070 Early Philadelphia 1071 Dwarf Champion 1072 Champion of England 1073 Large Blue Imperial 1074 " White Marrowfat 1075 Dwarf Marrowfat 1076 Large Black-eyed Marrowfat 1077 Yorkshire Hero 1078 Dwarf Gray Sugar 1079 Tall Sugar.... 1080 Field Sorts 1081 English Style 1082 Paiisian Style 1083 Family Style 1084 With Cream, Sharon Style 1085 With Bacon 1086 For Garniture 1087 Puree for Garniture 1088 Soup Puree 1089 " St. Germain , 1090 " " of Split Peas 1091 " with Juli- enne, Conde 1092 " " " Dried Green Peas, German Style 1093 Preserved Green. . . 1094 PENNYROYAL. .1095 PEPPER 1096 Culture 1097 Chili 1098 Long Red Cayenne 1099 Large Squash 1 100 Golden Dawn 1101 Large Bell 1102 Sweet Mountain 1 103 Cranberry 1104 Grossum... 1105 422 GENERAL INDEX. PEPPER Continued. Cherry or Little Gem 1106 Chili Peppers preserved in Vinegar . 1107 Chili Pepper Vinegar 1108 Vinegar 1109 Preserved Pickled Bell Peppers 1110 Preserved Stuffed Pickled Bell Peppers 1111 Pickled Stuffed Bell Peppers, Sha- ron Style 1112 How to make Ked Pepper 1113 How to make White Pepper 1120* Broiled Bell Peppers 1114 Stuffed Bell Peppers, American Style 1115 Stuffed Bell Peppers, French style 1116 Stuffed Bell Peppers, Brazilian Style 1117 Green Peppers, for Garniture. . . .1118 For Relishes 1119 PEPPERMINT 1121 PICKLED Art chokes 51 Artichokes, how to Cook 52 Beets 229 Beets for Relish, German Style 230 Cabbage 324 Cabbage, Red English Style 322 Capers St 1 Carrots 401 Cauliflower 432 Celeriac 446 Cucumbers 462 Cucumbers, Mixed Pickles 643 Melons ( Mangoes) 921 Nasturtium Seed Buds 941 Onions 1016 " 1017 Peppers, Bell, Sharon Style 1112 PICKLES 1123 Mixed 1124 Chow-Chow 1125 PICRIDIUM 1126 PI-TSAI 1122 POKE, OR PIGEON BERRY 1127 Stalks, with Butter Sauce 1128 POPPY 1 129 Culture 1130 PORRIDGE, Oat Meal 953 PORTUGAL CABBAGE 1131 POTATOES 1132 Culture 1133 Early Mayflower 1134 POTATOES Continued. Wall's Orange 1135 Jumbo 1 136 Champion of America 1137 Rochester Favorite 1138 Saint Patrick 1 139 Beauty of Hebron 1140 Early Rose 1 141 White Rose 1142 Late Rose 1 143 Peerless 1 144 Snowflake 1 145 Early Telephone 1146 Vermont Champion 1 147 Peach Blow 1 148 Mammoth Pearl 1149 Early Gem 1150 Carter 1151 Buckeye 1 152 California Red 1 153 Boiled 1 1 54 " Peeled 1155 " New 1156 " German Style 1157 Steamed 1158 Stewed, American Style 1159 " Maitre d'Hotel 1160 " Epicurean St> le 1161 Baked Stewed, with Cream, Chad- wick Style 1162 Stewed, Bretonue Style. 1163 ' Hanoverian Style 1164 " with Mustard Sauce 1165 " Bacon 1166 Hashed, " Cream 1167 Hashed, Browned 1168 Baked Hashed with Cream 1169 " with Salt Herrings, Berlin Style 1170 Baked, Carlsruhe Style. 1171 Baked, with Anchovies 1172 Boiled, Italian Style 1 173 Tossed in Butter (Saute) 1174 Lyonnaise 1 175 Tossed. Italian Style (Saute) 1176 Saute, Hollandaise 1177 Broiled .. 1178 Baked 1179 Baked, New 1180 Mashed 1181 Baked Mashed 1182 Baked Mashed with Spinach, Frank- fort Style 1183 Baked Mashed with Ham, Buckeye Style 1184 GENEKAL INDEX. 423 POTATOES Continued. Croquettes .... 1 185 Duchesse 1 186 Stuffed, Surprise 1187 Balls, American Style 1188 Balls, Margot Style 1189 Convent or Pelerine Style 1190 Dauphine 1191 Fried, Saratoga Chips 1192 " Long Branch Style 1193 " French Style 1194 " Julienne Style 1195 " Parisian Style 1196 Brabant Style . 1197 Chateaubriand 1 198 Souffle (Puffed) 1199 Puree, Jackson Style 1'200 Cake 12 U For Garniture 1202 Tlour (Fecule) 1203 Balls for Soups (Quenelles) 1204 Soup-Puree, with Cream, Parmen- tier 1205 Soup-Puree, Jackson Style 1206 For Borders 1207 Crusts 1208 Salad 1209 " with Anchovies or Herrings. . 1210 " with Truffles 121 1 " Bennett Style 1212 " with Aspic Jelly, Chartreusse. 1213 PRESERVED Artichokes, Whole 53 ' in Quarters 51 Artichoke Bottoms, in Cans 55 Artichoke Puree 56 Asparagus in Salt 93 1 ' in Cans 94 ' ' Tops 95 Beans, String in Siilt 157 " " in Brine 158 " " in Cans 159 ' Flageolet, in Cans 172 Cardoons 371 Cardoon Puree 372 Carrots for Garniture 402 " Puree, for Garniture and Soups 403 Cauliflower in Brine 433 Celeriac 445 " in Brine 447 Celery 477 " in Brine 478 " Puree 476 Endives in Cans. . . 708 PRESERVED Continued. Lettuce, Whole 827 " in Cans 828 Melons in Cans 348 " in Syrup 349 " Spiced 922 " " in Syrup 923 Mushrooms in Cans 904 " in Jars 905 Mushroom Trimmings, for Fine Herbs 906 Mushrooms (Cepes ; 907 Peas 109i Peppers, Chili .1107 Bell 1111 Sorrel 1433 Tomatoes 1594 Tomato Sauce 1595 Tomatoes, Whole, in Sauce 1596 Tomato Figs 1597 PUDDING OF SWEET POTA- TOES 1515 PUMPKIN 1214 Culture 1215 Large Yellow 1216 Cushan 1217 Sweet Sugar 1218 Nuntucket 1219 Diet Drink (Tisa e) 1220 Baked, Vermont Style 1221 Mashed 1222 Soup Cream of 1223 PUREE Artichoke 47 " Preserved 56 Asparagus 84 Beans, New 170 " Green Flageolet 171 " Dry White White 183 " " Brown 184 " " with Celery.. 185 Brussels Sprouts 260 Cardoons 369 Carrots 395 " Preserved, for Garnitures and Sou ps 403 Cauliflower 428 Celeriac 439 Celery 470 Chestnuts 491 Cucumbers 632 EggP.ant 683 Endive 703 Garlic . . .732 424 GENEEAL INDEX. PUREE Continued. Lentil, Conde 796 Mushrooms 881 Onions, Brown Soubise 996 White " 997 Peas, Green 1088 Potatoes, Jackson Style 1200 Sea Kale 1401 Sorrel 1428 " with Sauce 1429 Tomato 1584 Truffles 1609 Turnip, with Cream 1639 " " French Style .1640 PURSLAIN 1224 Common 1225 RADISH , 1226 Culture 1227 Spring and Summer 1228 Oblong Brown 1229 Olive Shaped Scarlet 1230 Scarlet Turnip-rooted 1231 Long Scarlet 1232 Long White 1233 Long White, purple top 1234 Small Yellow Turnip-rooted 1235 White Crooked 1236 Yellow Turmp-rooted 1237 Long Salmon 1238 Long Purple 1239 Early Black 1240 " Long Purple 1241 ' ' Scarlet Turnip- rooted 1242 " White Turnip-rooted 1243 Gray Olive-shaped 1241 Gray Turnip-rooted 1245 Autumn and Winter 1246 Large Purple Winter 1247 Black Spanish 1243 Long Black Winter 1249 Long-leaved White Chinese 1250 Rose-colored Chinese 1251 Winter Spanish 1252 California Mammoth White Winter. 1253 Eed for Relishes 1254 Black for Eelishes 1255 For Garnitures 1256 The Oil 1257 RAMPION 1258 Culture 1259 RAMPION, or German or Evening Primrose 1260 Salad.., ..1261 RAPE . ..." 1 262 Culture .1263 Annual Rough-leaved Summer. . . . 12H4 Common or Winter 1265 German 1266 Summer.. ..1267 RED CABBAGE.. REPERE . . .1268 . 726 RHUBARB 1269 Culture 1270 Downing's Colossal 1271 Elfort 1272 Hawk's Champagne 1273 Wyatt's Linneous 1274 Wyatt's Victoria 1275 Gaboon 127ft Wine 1277 Water 1278 Stewed 1279 RICE 1280 Boiled Plain 1281 Boiled 1282 Steamed 1283. Boiled with Broth 1284 Borders 1285 For Purees or Bisque Soups 1286 Family Style 1287 With Curry ' 1288, Creole Style 1289 Mexican Style 1290 Milanaise Style 1291 Spanish Style 1292 With Cabbage, Ristori Style 1293 Parisian Style 1294 With Curcuma or Turmeric 1295 Valencienne Style 1296 Turkish Style 1297 Risotti Florentine Style 1298 Risotti Piemontaise Style 1299 For Garniture 1300 Custard for Soup Garniture, Lang- try Style 1301 For Consomme 1302 Soup 1303 " Indian Style 1304 " with Milk 1305 " Almond Milk 1306 " Italian Style 1307 " Cream, Rachel Style 1308 " " Langtry Style . 1309 " " of Rice Flour, Astor Style 1310- Water.... 1311 Gruel... ..1312- GENEBAL INDEX. 425: RICE Continued. Crusts 1313 ' ' Victoria Style 1314 ' With Eggs and Cheese 13 15 " " Curried Lobster 1316 " " Puree of Chicken 1317 Casseroles 1318 How to Cook Rice for Casseroles . .1319 Timbals 1320 Panade of Rice Flour for Forced Meats 1321 Croquettes, Creole Style 1322 Fritters (Subrics) 1323 Croquettes 1324 Fritters (Sweet) 1325 Cake (Souffle) 1326 " Glazed 1327 For Compotes of Fruit 1328 With Milk for Invalids 1329 Crusts or Stands for Hot or Cold Side Dishes 1330 How to Cook it for Crusts or Stands. 1 331 RISOTTI Florentine Style 1298 Piemontaise Style 1299 ROCAMBOLE 1332 Culture 1333 ROCKET 1334 Culture 1335 ROSEMARY 1336 Culture 1337 Gold Striped 1338 Silver Striped 1339 Narrow Leaved 1340 Common or Green Leaved 1341 RYE 1342 Broad Leaved 1343 Narrow Leaved 1344 RUTA-BAGA, Russian or Swedish Turnip '. . 1345 American Purple Top 1346 Skirving's Purple Top 1347 Shamrock 1348 Large White French 1349 RYE 1350 Culture 1351 SAFFRON. 1352 Yellow Coloring for Culinary Pur- poses 1353 SAGE 1354 Culture 1355 Broad Leaved Green 13f>6 Common or Red Laaved 1357 SAGE Continued. Green Leaved 1358 Narrow Leaved Green 1359 Dried 1360 SAGO ..1361 For Invalids 1362 Gruel 1363 For Soups 1364 Soup with Cream 1365 SALAD Asparagus, Plain 86 " with Shrimps 87 " " Trufflas, Royal 88 Beans, String 161 German Style 162 ' Dry White, with Aspic Jelly, German Style 1713 " Dry White 181 Cabbage 314 " Boston Style 315 " with Cream, American Style 316 Red 317 " " German Style 318 Cardoons, Spanish Style 370 Cauliflower -. 429 Celery 472 Corn-Salad '. 539 " " with Beets 540 " " " Celery 541 Dandelion 650 Diplomatic 1702 Egg Plant 689 Endive, French Style 704 " German Style 705 " American Style 706 Lettuce 824 Okra 963. Potato 1209 " with Anchovies and Her- rings 1210 " " Truffles 1211 " Bennett Style 1212 " with Aspie Jelly, Char- treuse 1213 Salsify 1377 Tomato, Plain 1566 " with Cucumbers 1567 Spanish Style 1568 " German Style 1569 " Hesketh Style 1570 Truffle, with Artichokes, Luning Style 1610 " " Potatoes, Russian Style 1611. 426 GENERAL INDEX. SALAD Continued. Vegetable 1698 " California Style 17U7 " Swedish Style 1708 ' ' Compound 1699 '* American Style 1700 " Mocedoine 1701 " Italian Style 1703 ' ' Parisian Style 1704 " Russian Style 1705 " Sauerkraut, German Stylel70ti " with Aspic Jelly, Mace- doine.1710 Jardi- niere. 1711 " Italian Style. 1712 SALAD GARNITURES .1366 SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT.. 1367 Culture !368 How to Prepare it for Cooking 1369 With Butter Sauce 1370 ' Cream Sauce 1371 French Style. 1372 With Brown Sauce, Spanish Style.. 1373 Fried in Batter 1374 " Villeroi ". 1375 " in Butter 1376 Salad 1377 SALEP 1378 Soup for luvalids 1379 SALT 1H80 SALTPETER 1 381 SAMPHIRE, OR SEA FENNEL.. 1382 Golden 1383 Culture 1384 SAUCE. Caper 352 Celery 4 66 Cranberry 605 Fine Herbs 745 Horseradish . 753 Horseradish with Apples 759 Horseradish with Cream 760 Mint, American Style 856 Mint, French Style 857 Mustard for Deviled Meats 935 Onion. Brown 993 Onion, White 999 Onion, Piquant 1000 Soya 895 Spiced 1443 Tomato, Plain 1582 Tomato 1583 Tomato, Preserved. . . . 1595 NO. SAUERKRAUT 326 How to Make it 327 How to Prepare for Cooking 328 German Siyle 329 French Style 330 Bavarian Style 331 Flemish Style 332 Baked, Duf our 333 Baked, with Fillet of Soles 334 Baked, with Partridges or Quails. . 335 Salad, German Style 1706 Timbal, German Style 1677 SAVORY 1385 Culture 1386 Summer 1387 Winter 1388 Use of 1389 SAVOY CABBAGE 1390 SCORZONARA, or Black Salsify . . . .1391 Culture. . . .' 1392 SCURVY GRASS 1393 SEA BEET 1394 Culture 1395 SEA KALE 1396 Culture 1397 With Butter Sauce 1398 Hollandaise Style -. 1399 With Brown Sauce 1400 Puree 1401 SEMOULE 1 102 Consomme with 1403 Crusts of, Palerrnitaine ... 1404 Balls (Quenelles) Villeroi 1405 SHALLOTS, OR ESCHALOTS. . . .1406 Culture 1407 Common Small 1408 Jersey 1409 Long-keeping 1410 Essence 1411 SHEPHERD'S PURSE 1412 Culture 1413 SIEVA OR SMALL LIMA BEAN. 1414 Mottled 1415 SKIRRET uie SNAKE OR SERPENT CUCUM- BER 1417 Culture 1418 SORREL 1419 Culture 1420 Belle Ville 1421 Blistered Leaf 1422 Fervent's Large 1423 GENERAL INDEX. 427 SORREL Continued. Sarscelle Blunt 1424 French or Eouud-leaved 1425 With Cream 1426 With Gravy 1427 Puree for Garnitures 1428 Puree with Sauce for Garniture.. . . 1429 Soup 1430 " for Fast Days 1431 " with Cream 1432 Preserved 1433 SOUP Cabbage 322 Cabbage. Garbure 323 Celeriac 444 Corn Chowder 580 Chestnut Garbure 490 Gumbo 867 Lettuce 825 Okra, with Chicken 867 Onion 1009 1 ' Stanislaus Style 1010 " with Milk 1011 " Garbure 1015 Bice 1203 " Indian Style 13d4 " with Milk 1305 " with Almond Milk 1306 " Italian Style 1307 Sago, with Cream 1365 Salep for Invalids 1379 Semoule 1403 Sorrel 1430 " for Fast Days 1431 " with Cream 1432 Tapioca 1520 SOUP PUREE Artichoke 49 Asparagus, Conde 89 " Eoyal 90 " St. George 91 Bean, Green Flageolet, St. Ger- main 196 Bean, Green Flageolet, Soubise... 197 Fresh White, Newton Style 198 ' Black, Faubonne 199 Dry White, Pioneer , 201 " " St. George 202 ' " Conde 203 ' For Fast Days 204 Carrots, Aurore 396 " Stanley 397 German Style 398 " Crecy 399 " " for Fast Days 400 SOUP PUREE Continued. Cauliflower 431 Celery, Spanish Style 474 Chestnut 478 Jerusalem Artichoke, Palestine. ... 64 Leek, Viennoise 787 Lentil, Conde 798 Hunter's Style 799 Onion, Bavarian Style 1012 " Bretonne Style 1113 Peas, Green 1080 ' " St. Germain 1090 " Split 1091 " " with Julienne, Conde ..1092 " Dried Green, German Style 1093 Potato, with Cream, Parmentier. .1205 Jackson Style 1206 Tomato, American Style 1585 trench " 1586 with Eice 1587 Florida 1588 Turnip, with Cream 1649 ' Farina 1650 SOUP -CREAM Artichoke 50 Asparagus, Countess 92 Barley, Nelson Style JOS ' ' Marie Louise Style 106 " Farragut Style 107 Bean, Green Flageolet, Leland Style 200 Brocoli 248 Cauliflower 430 Celery 475 Chestnut, Hunter's Style 489 Corn 579 Cucumber, Queen Style 633 Endive, with Poached Eggs 707 Pumpkin 1223 Eice, Eachel Style 1308 " Langtry Style 1309 " with Flour, Astor Style 1310 Wheat, Green Farina 1742 SOUTHERWOOD, OR BALM- MINT 1434 SPANISH OYSTER PLANT. 1435 Culture 1436 SPEAR-MINT 1437 SPICES 1438 For Salted Beef 1439 Salt for Stuffings 1440 Infusion for Turtle Soup 1441 Mixed 1442 Sauce 1443 Herbs and Flavors . . 1444. 428 GENEKAL INDEX. SPINACH, OR SPINNAGE. Culture Flanders Lettuce-leaved Sorrel-leaved Summer round-leaved Winter Common Prickly. . . How to Prepare for Boiling English Style American Style With Gravy, French Style . " Milk, American Style " Cream Sauce Piemontaise For Garniture Fritters (Subrics) Green Color Crt am of . . SQUASH Culture Apple Crooked Neck Summer Bush. Early Yellow Scalloped Bush. Egg Green Striped Bergen Large Waned Crooked Neck Sum- mer Orange Autumnal Marrow Bush or Dwarf Vegetable Marrow. . Canada Crooked Neck Cashaw Cocoa-nut Custard Egg-shaped Honolulu Hubbard Mammoth Turban Vegetable Marrow Wilder Winter Crooked Neck Winter Striped Crooked Neck Yokohama Mashed Stuffed, Eoman S'yle " Stanford Style Fried Stuffed, American Style " Boston Style Spanish Style Scolloped, Astor Style STRAWBERRY TOMATO, or Al kekengi Purple Scarlet. . . NO. 1445 1446 1447 1448 1449 1450 1451 1452 1453 1454 1455 1456 1457 1458 1459 1460 1461 1462 1463 1464 1465 1466 1467 1468 1469 1470 1471 1472 1473 1474 1475 1476 1477 1478 1479 1480 1481 1482 1483 1484 1485 1486 1487 1488 1489 1490 1491 1492 1493 1494 1495 1496 1497 STUFFED Artichokes, Bordelaise 32 " American Style 32 Artichoke Bottoms, Clara Louise Kellogg Style. 36 Pioneer Style. 37 " " Italian Style.. 38 Cabbage 306 " Hunter's Style 307 Egg Plant, American Style 684 " " Brazilian Style 685 " " Turkish Style 686 " " Parisian Style 687 Lettuce 819 Fried 820 Morels 865 Mushrooms, with Fine Herbs 887 " Italian Style 888 Onions 994 " American Style 995 Peppers, Bell, American Style 1115 " French Style 1116 " Brazilian Style ]117 " ' Pickled 1111 11 " " Sharon Style. 1112 Potatoes, Surprise 1187 Squash, Roman Style 1489 Stanford Style 1490 " Fried, American Style . . . .1491 Tomatoes, Provincial Style 1575 Mackay Style 1576 " Turkish Style 1577 " American Style 1578 Cardinal Style 1579- Truffles 1613 Turnip Cabbage 1656 SUCCOTASH 573 SWEET POTATOES 1498 Culture 1499 Nansemond 1500 Large White 1501 Kentucky Early Eed 1502 Purple Skinned 1503 Ame: ican Eed 1504 Eose Colored 1505 Yellow Skinned, or Yellow Carolina. 1506 Baked 1507 Boiled 1508 Fried 1509 " Puffed (Souffle) 1510 Fritters 1511 Cream of, for Pies 1512 Carolina Cake, with Sabayon Sauce. 1513 Carolina Fritteis, Nellie Graut Style 1514 GENERAL INDEX. 429 SWEET POTATOES Continued. Pudding 1515 Spanish Style 1516 SWISS CHARD, or Sea Kale Beet. . .1517 SYRUP A ngelica 7 Asparagus 96 Capillary 354 TANSY 1518 TAPIOCA OR MANIOCA 1519 Soup with Broth or Consomme. . . . 1520 TARRAGON 1521 Culture 1522 Vinegar, plain 1523 " French Style 1524 TARTLETS Mushrooms with Cream 901 Corn Meal 714 TEA 1525 To Make Tea 1526 Kussian Style 1527 Iced 1528 After Dinner 1529 For Invalids 1530 Custard, in Cups 1531 THYME 1532 Culture 1533 Broad-leaved 1534 Ntirrow-leaved 1535 Lemon 1536 TIMBALS Egg Plant, Mackay Style 1676 Rice 1320 Sauerkraut, German Style 1677 Vegetable Balls, Milauaise Style . ..1673 TOMATO 1537 Culture '. 1538 The Cardinal 1539 Livingston Favorite 1540 Mayflower 1541 Peifection 1512 Acme 1543 Paragon 1544 The Trophy 1545 Champion Cluster . 1546 Apple-shaped 1547 The Conqueror 1548 Bermuda 1549 Feejee 1550 Arlington 1551 General Grant 1552 Fig or Red Pear 1553 Yellow Plum.. ..1554 TOMATO Continued. Red Cherry 1555 Strawberry or Winter Cherry 1556 Green Gage 1557 Yellow Cherry 1553 Yellow Pear . . 1559 Queen 1550 Canada Victor \~>6l Hathaway 's Excelsior 1562 Golden Trophy 1553 Island Beauty ]564 For Relish 1565 Salad, plain 1566 " with Cucumbers 1567 Spanish Style 1568 " German " 1559 ' Hesketh " , .. 1570 Fried 1571 Stewed 1572 Baked Stewed 1573 How to Prepare them for Stuffing. . 1574 Stuffed, Provincial Style 1575 " Mackay " 1576 " Turkish " 1577 " American " 1578 " Cardinal " 1579 Baked 1580 For Garniture 1581 Plain, Sauce 1582 Sauce 1583 Puree 1584 Soup-Puree, American Style 1585 " " French " 1586 Soup, with Rice 1587 " Florida Style 1588 Catsup 1589 " 1.390 " 1591 " Epicurean Style 1592 Yum-Yum 1593 Preserved 1594 " Sauce 1595 " Whole in Sauce 1596 Figs, Preserved 1597 TONKA BEAN 1598 TRUFFLES 1 599 Whole, with Champagne Sauce . . 1600 Italian Style 1 601 Piemontaise Style 1602 Baked, with Cream Sauce 1603 " in Shells .16(14 With Maderia Wine Sauce 1605 Essence of 1606 For Garniture 1607 For Cold Garnitures . . . , 1608 430 GENERAL INDEX. TRUFFLES Continued. Puree, for Garnitures 1609 Salad, with Artichokes, Luniug Style 1610 Salad, with Potatoes, Russian Sty le. 1611 Small Pates, Bennett Style 1612 Stuffed 1613 TUBEROUS - ROOTED CHICK- LING WETCH, OR PEA.... 1614 TURMERIC, OR CURCUMA 1615 TURNIP 1616 Culture 1617 Early Purple Top Munich 1618 White Egg 1619 Early White Stone 1620 Jersey 1621 Early White Dutch 1622 Early White Flat Dutch 1623 Early Purple Top 1624 Cowhorn or Long White 1625 Purple Top Mammoth 1626 Large White Flat Norfolk 1627 Pomeranean White Globe 1628 Purple Top White Globe 1629 Sweet German 1630 Seven T..p 1631 Early Yelow Montagny 1632 Large Amber Globe 1633 Orange Jelly or Golden Ball 1634 Purple Top Yellow Aberdeen 1635 Early Yellow Finland 1636 Early Yellow Malta 1637 Mashed 1638 Puree with Cream 1639 Puree with Cream, French Style. . .1640 Glazed (brown) for Garniture 1641 Glazed (white) for Garniture 1642 Stewed, Spanish Style 1643 Stewed with Onions 1644 Stewed, Convent Style 1645 Boiled Plain 1646 Boiled with White Sauce 1647 Soup Puree 1648 " " with Cream 1649 " " " Farina 1650 Pectoral Broth with Turnips 1651 TURNIP CABBAGE or Kohl-rabi. . . 1652 Culture : 1653 Early white Vienna 1654 Early Purple Vienna 1655 Stuffed 1656 With Cream Sauce 1657 " Butter Sauce 1658 German Style 1659 Smothered and Glazed 1660 For Garnitures. . 1661 TURNIP-ROOTED CHERVIL. ... 1662 Culture 1665 UNICORN ROOT 1664 Culture 1665 VALERIAN 1666 Culture 1667 VANILLA 1668 Flavor 1669 Beans 1670 VEGETABLES 1671 Balls, Turkish Style 1672 Timbal of Balls, Milanaise Style . .1673 Borders 1674 Chart reusse 1675 Timbals of Egg Plant, Mackay Style 1676 Timbal of Sauerkraut. GermanStyle 1677 Small Pates, Freuch Style 1678 " " American Style 1679 " Crusts, Macedoine Style 1680 Bread 1681 Macedoiue, Spanish Style 1682 " Mexican Style 1683 " German Style 1684 " American Style 1685 Large Maoedoine Garniture 16S6 CoLi Macedoine Garniture 1687 Small " " 1688 Large Garniture, Peasant Style. . . .1689 Farmer Style.... 1630 " " Jardiniere 1691 Small " " 1692 Cold " " 1693 Cold " Floral Style 1694 Large Garniture, Provincial Style. 1695 Essence of 1696 Frying Batter for ..1697 Salads 1698 Compound Salads 1699 Salad, American Style 1700 Macedoine Salad 1701 Diplomatic Salad 1702 Salad, Italian Style 1703 " Pari iau Style 1704 " Eussian Style 1705 Sauerkraut Salad, German Style.. . 1706 Salad, California Style 1707 Mixed Salad, Swedish Style 1708 How to Prepare Moulds with Aspic Jelly for Salads 1709 Salad with Aspic Jelly, Macedoine. 1710 " " " " Jardiniere. 1711 " " " " Italian Style. 17^2 Bean Salad with Aspic Jelly, Ger- man Style 1713 VETCH, OR TARE 1714 GENERAL INDEX. 431 VINEGAR. Celery 479 Horseradish 762 Onion 1018 Pepper, Chili 1108 Pepper 1109 Tarragon 1523 Tarragon, French Style 1524 WATER Barley, for Invalids 109 ' ' for Gargling Ill Lettuce, for Invalids 826 Rhubarb 1278 Rice 1311 WATER-MELON. . , 1715 Culture 1716 Georgia Rattlesnake 1717 Cuban Queen 1718 California, or Improved Odella. . . .1719 Orange 1720 Citron and California Pie Melon. . . 1721 Black Spanish 1722 Scaly Bark 1723 Mountain Sweet 1724 Ice-Cream 1725 Ferry's Peerless 1726 Early Jersey 1727 How to Serve.. ..1728 WHEAT 1729 Michigan Bronze or Mediterranean Hybrid 1730 Valley 1731 Martin's Amber 1732 Democrat 1733 Fultz 1734 Clawson 1735 Red Mediterranean 1736 Winter Pearl .1737 Invincible 1738 Adamant 1739 Green Mountain 1740 Broth 1741 Soup Cream of Green Farina Wheat 1742 WINE Rhubarb 1277 WINGED PEA 1743 WITLOEF 1744 WOOD SORREL 1745 Culture 1746 WORMWOOD 1747 Roman 1748 Sea : 1749 Culture.. ..1750