SIR HEB3r]LEB f l&i* ADVERTISEMENT. ' I ^ HIS work is compofed from the ob- 1- fervations of perhaps half my life, made without the left original view of publication, from the numberlefs walks taken in and about our capital, with a mind occupied with more ideas than the frivolous vifit, or the mere object of the hour. SOME were made in company of different friends, ftricken, like myfelf, with the love of the fcience of antiquities ; and with the defire of tracing the progrefs of perhaps the firft city (comparing all its advantages) in the univerfe. THE remarks made in thefe latter walks A 2 were iv ADVERTISEMENT. were committed to my tablets till they became rather confiderable. In that ftate I determined to lay them before the public, not urged by dejire of friends, nor the wijh of the people, or any fimilar motives, but by my own continued propenfity to writing. I HAVE two things to apologize for in this performance. Firft, its irregularity : but I do affure my friends it is given nearly in the fame manner in which the materials were colle&ed, and quite according to the courfe of the walk of the day. Secondly, Let me requeft the good inhabi- tants of London and Wejlmmfter^ not to be offended at my having fluffed their Iliad into a nut-fliell : the account of the city of London^ and liberties of Weftminfter^ into a quarto volume. I have condenfed into it all I could ; omitted nothing that fuggefted itfelf, nor am- plified ADVERTISEMENT. plified any thing to make it a guinea book. In a word, it is done in my own manner, from which I am grown too old to depart. I FEEL within myfelf a certain monitor that warns me to hang up my pen in time, before its powers are weakened, and rendered vifibly impaired. I wait not for the admonition of friends. I have the archbifhop of Grenada in my eye : and fear the imbecility of human nature might produce, in long- worn age, the fame treatment of my kind advifers, as poor Gil Bias had from his moft reverend patron. My literary bequefts to future times, and more ferious concerns, muft occupy the remnant of my days. This clofes my public labors. To every particular friend and correfpondent I fend my moft cordial thanks, for their candid and unremitted attention to my various enqui- ries : and for their bearing fo long with my 4 yearning vi ADVERTISEMENT. yearning after information ; and with my un- common curicfity, without which no writer can proceed with the confidence of accuracy, or ought to lay any thing before the public unfanctioned by local information. So much for acknowlegement of private favors. I take leave of a partial public, with the trueft grati- tude for its long endurance of my very volumi- nous writings : for its kind foftering my few merits : for its affected blindnefs to my nume- rous defects. The laft acl: concluded ! Valete et Plaudite. THOMAS PENNANT. Downing, March i, 1790. INSTRUCTIONS INSTRUCTIONS TO THE BOOK-BINDER. Frontifpiece, SIR HENRY LEE; fee p. 96. Page 98, ROBERT DUDLEY, Earl of LEICESTER, armed for the Tilt-yard. joo, Cabinet of CHARLES I. and part of Old Whitehall. 103, The Old Horfe Guards. 136, The SAVOY Hofpital. 191, Ruins of the Church of St. JAMES'S, CLERK.EN- WELL. 193, St. JOHN'S GATE. 218, The Gigantic PORTER, and Little HUDSON, the Dwarf, in Newgate-ftreet. The BOAR'S HEAD Sign in EASTCHEAP. 219, The Sculpture of the Boy in Pannier Ally. 221, ALDERSGATE, and part of the Walls and Towers on each fide, taken from a very anticnt Drawing in the archives of St. Bartholo- mew^ : communicated by Doctor COMBE. 389, Sir RICHARD CLOUGH, knight, from the original in pofTeflion of Mrs. CLOUGH, of Glany went, in the county of Denbigh. 416, The antient Hall at CROSBIE PLACE. N. B. This, and the prints at pp. 136, 191, 193, 218, and 219, drawn and etched by Mr. John Carter, x OF O F W O N D O N. HENSOEVER a party of the original inhabitants ESTABLISHMENT of this ifland found an impulfe towards civilization: to OF A BRITISH Town. withdraw from their native dens in depth of woods, and to form fociety ; they cleared a fpot in the midft of their fo- refts, and founded their towns, fimilar to thofe which the firft dif- coverers of the new world met with occupied by the favages of America * ; fimilar to, but probably inferior in ceconomy to thofe of the more polifhed race of Pholey Negroes f of Guinea. The Britons foon found the danger of living in families feparated and undefended. They fought for fecurity in places furrounded with woods or morafles, and added to the natural ftrength by forming ramparts and finking foffesj. But they preferred fpots fortified by nature ; and made artificial works only where * Dl Briif Virginia, tab. xix. xx. f Moore's Travels into Africa, 26. I Oppidutn autem Britanni voca'nt quum fylvas impeditas vallo atque fofla munierunt. Cafar. de Bel. Gal. lib. v. Locum cgregtc et naturaet opere muni- turn. Ibid. Strabo, lib. iv. p. 306. B nature MANNERS OF THE BRITONS, nature (hewed herfelf deficient. Within fuch precincts they formed their towns j their buildings were moft mean and fimple,- covered with reeds or flicks like American wigwams, or like modern hovels of the peafants of Locbaber, or the cabins of the Iri/b commonalty, to this moment as rude as the Britijh abori- gines. To thefe precincts the Britons reforted with their cattle, their wives and children *, whom they left thus protected, while they fallied out to war, or to the employments of the chace: for their cloathing was the fkins of beads, and their food the flelh, with the addition of milk, and farinaceous diet. The Britons foon became acquainted with one great ufe of the cow, notwith- ftanding they remained ignorant of the making of cheefe till the arrival of the Romans. Agriculture was foon introduced among thofe who earliefl formed towns or communities : poffibly by ftrangers who vifited them from the continent. They cleared the land in the neighborhood of their dwellings, they fowed corn,, they reaped and depofited it in granaries under ground, as the Sicilians practife to this very day j but the latter lodged it in the grain, our predecefibrs in the ear, out of which they picked the grains as they wanted them, and, ignorant of mills, at firft bruifed,, and then made them into a-coarfe bread jv The fame nation who taught them the art of agriculture, firft introduced a change of drefs. From the Gauls of the continent, they received the firft cloth ; the drefs called the Bracha, a coarfe woollen manu- facture. But probably it was long before they learned the ufe of the loom, or became their own manufacturers. This intercourfe * Dito/orus Sifultis, lib. v. c. if. t Conjigcs ct liberos in loca tuu transferred 2-atituj in vit. Jgric. layed- 1- O N D O T*. layed the foundation of commerce, which in early times rxtended no farther than to our maritime places. They firft received the mdiments of civilization, while the more remote remained, in proportion to their diftance, more and more favage, or in a ftate of nature. In the Fame degree as the neighboring Gauls be- came acquainted tvith the arts, they communicated them to the neareft Britijb colonifts; who, derived from the fame ftock, and retaining the fame language and manners, were more capable and willing to receive any inftructions offered by a congenerous peo- ple. For this reafon Cantium, the modern Kent, and probably the country for fome way up the Thames, was, as C*far informs us, far the mod civilized of any part of Britain: and that the inha- 'bitants differed very little in their manner of life from the Gauls. It was from the merchants who frequented our ports, he received the firft intelligence of the nature of our country, which induced him to undertake the invafion of Britain, and which in after- *imes layed the foundation of its conqueft by the Romans. THERE is not the left reafon to doubt but that London exifted LONOT. -at that period, and was a place of much refort. It ftood in fuch a fuuation as the Britons would feleft, according to the rule they cftablifhed. An immenfe foreft originally extended to the river fide, and even as late as the reign of Henry II. covered the north- ern neighborhood of the city, and was filled with various fpecies of beads of chace *. It was defended naturally by foffes i one formed by the Creek which ran along Fleet-ditcb y the other, -afterwards known by that of Walbrook. The fouth fide was ** .fitK/fef ben's Defer. Lonfan, 26. B a guarded LONDON STONB. WHEW LONDONST ONE, guarded by the Thames. The north they might think fufRcreml? protected by the adjacent foreft. NEAR St. Swithin's church is a remnant of antiquity, which ibme have fuppofed to have been Britijh ; a ftone, which might have formed a part of a Druldical circle, or fome other object of the antient religion, as it is placed near the center of the Ro+ man precincts. Others have conjectured it to have been a milli- ary (lone, and to have ferved as a ftandard, from which they began to compute their miles. This feems very reafonable, as the dif- tances from the neighboring places coincide very exactly. At all times it has been preferved with great care, was placed deep in the ground, and ftrongly fattened with bars of iron. It feems,. preferved like the Palladium of the city. It is at prefent cafed like a relique, within free-done, with a hole left in the middle, which difcovers the original. Certainly fuperftitious refpect had been payed to it ; for when the notorious rebel Jack Cade pafled by it, after he had forced his way into the city, he ftruck his fword on London Jlonc, faying, " Now is Mortimer lord of this citie * i" as if that had been a cuftomary ceremony of taking poffeffion. THERE is every reafon to fuppofe that the Romans poflefied themfelves of London in the reign of Claudius j under whom Au- lus Plautius took Camalodunum, the prefent Maldon, in EJJex t and planted there a colony, confifting of veterans of the four- teenth legion, about a hundred and five years after the firft inva- fion of our ifland by C*Jar. This was the firil footing the Ro- mans had in Britain. It feems certain that London and Verulam Holinjhed) 634. were LONDON UNDER THE ROMANS. were taken poffeflion of about the fame time i but the laft clames the honor of being of a far earlier date, more opulent, populous, and a royal feat before the conqueft of Britain. Camalodunum was made a Colonia, or a place governed entirely by Roman laws and cuftoms ; Verulamium, a Municipium y in which the natives were honored with the privileges of Roman citizens, and enjoyed their own laws and conftitutions j and Londinium, only a Prxfec- tura y the inhabitants, a mixture of Romans and Britons,, being fuffered to enjoy no more than the name of citizens of Rome, being governed by Pr. xxviii. c. 3,. received COURSE OF THE WALLS. EXTENT AND FORM. TOWERS. received from her the title of Augufta ; which, for fome time, fuperfeded the antient one of Londinium. Long before this period, it was fully romanized, and the cuftoms, manners, build- ings, and arts of the conqueror adopted. The commerce of the empire flowed in regularly; came in a direct channel from the fe- veral parts then known, not as in the earlier days (when defcribed by Strabo} by the intervention of other nations -, for till the fettle- ment of the Roman conqueft, nothing could come immediately from Italy. The antient courfe of the walls was as follows : It began with a fort near the prefent fite of the 'Tower, was conti- nued along the Minories, and the back of Houndfditch, acrofs Bijhopjgate ftreet, in a ftrait line by London-wall to Cripplegate ; then returned fouthward by Crowders Well Alley, (where feveral remnants of lofty towers were lately to be feen) to Alder/gate \ thence along the back of Bull and Mouth ftreet to Newgate, and again along the back of the houfes in the Old Bailey to Ludgate ; foon after which it probably finiflied with another fort, where the houfe, late the King's Printing Houfe, in Black Friars, now flands : from hence another wall ran near the river-fide, along Thames ftreet, quite to the fort on the eaftern extremity. In another place I fhall have occafion to mention that the river at prefent is moved confiderably more to the fouth, than it was in the times in queftion. THE walls were three miles a hundred and fixty-five feet in circumference, guarded at proper diftances, on the land fide, with fifteen lofty towers; fome of them were remaining within thefe few years, and pofiibly may ftill. Mainland mentions one, twenty- fix feet high, near Gravel-lane, on the weft fide of Houndjditch j another, about eighty paces fouth-eaft towards Aldgate j and the bafes THE GATES. bafes of another, fupporting a modern houfe, at the lower end of the ftreet called the Vineyard, fouth of Aldgate. But fmce his publication, they have been demolifhed, fo that there is not a trace left. The walls, when perfect, are fuppofed to have been twenty-two feet high, the towers, forty. Thefe, with the rem- nants of the wall, proved the Roman ftructure, by the tiles and difpofition of the mafonry. London-wall, near Mcorfields, is now the moft entire part left of that ancient precind. I MUST not omit the Barbican, the Specula or Watch-tower be- A SPECULA. longing to every fortified place. This flood a little without the walls, to the north-weft of Cripplegate. THE gates, which received the great military roads, were four. THE GATES. The Praetorian way, the Saxon Watl'ing ftreet, patted under one, on the fite of the late Newgate ; veftiges having been difcovered of the road in digging above Holborn-bridge : it turned down to Dtf^-gate, or more properly Z>a>r-gate or /F^Ar-gate, where there was zfrajeftus or Ferry, to join it to the Watling ftreet, which was continued to Dover, The Hermin ftreet paflfed under Crip- p legate ; and a vicinal way went under Aldgate, by Betbnal Green, towards Oldford, a pafs over the river Lee to Durolsiton, the mo- dern Leiton, in Effex. IN moft parts of antient London, Roman antiquities have been found, whenever it has been thought neceflary to dig to any con- fiderable depth. Beneath the old Saint Mary le Bow were found the walls, windows, and pavement of a Roman Temple - t and not far from it, eighteen feet deep in adventitious foil, v/as the Ro- man caufeway. The great elevation of the prefent ground aboye its former ftate, will be taken notice of in another place. IN digging the foundation for the rebuilding of St. Paul's, C was 10 CCEMETERIES. was found a vaft coemetery : firft lay the Saxons, in graves lined with chalk-ftones, or in coffins of hollowed (tones ; beneath them had been the bodies of the Britons, placed in rows. Abundance of ivory and boxen pins, about fix inches long, marked their place. Thefe were fuppofcd to have fattened the fhrouds in which the bodies were wrapped*. Thefe perifhing, left the pins entire. In the fame row, but deeper, were Roman urns intermixed, lamps, lacrymatories ; fragments of facrificial vefiels were alfo difcovered, in digging towards the north-cad corner; and in 1675, not far from the eaft corner, at a confiderable depth, beneath fome flinty pavement, were found numbers of vefiels of earthen ware, and of glafs, of moft exquifite colors and beauty, fome infcribed with the names of deities, heroes, or men of rank. Others ornamented v/ith variety of figures in bas relief, of animals and of rofe-trees. Tefiul* of jafper, porphyry, or marble, fuch as form the pavement we fo often fee, were alfo difcovered* Alfo glafs beads and rings, large pins of ivory and bone, tufks of boars, and horns of deer fawn through. Alfo coins of different emperors, among them fome of Conftantine ; which at once deflroys the conjecture of Mr. Maitland, who fuppofes that this collection were flung together at the facking of London by our injured Boadiria. IN 1711, another ccemetcry was difcovered, in Camomile fereet^. adjoining to Bijk&fcfgatt. It lay beneath a handfome teflelated pavement, and contained numbers of urns filled with allies and cinders of burnt bones j with them were beads, rings, a lacryma- tory, a fibula, and a coin of Antoninus. IN Spittlefalds was another Roman burying-place, of which IK SPITTLE- FIELDS. * Parent alia, p. 266. ANTIQUITIES. many curious particulars are mentioned by old Stow, in p. 323 of his Survey of London : and Camden gives a brief account of another, difcovered in Goodman's folds. Among thofe found in Spittlefields, was a great ofiuary made of glafs, encompaffed with five parallel circles, and containing a gallon and a half j it had a handle, a very fhort neck, and wide mouth of a whiter metal. This was prefented to Sir Chriftopher Wren> who lodged it in the Mufeum of the Royal Society *. I point out thefe as means of difcovering the antient Roman precincts of the city. The cceme- teries muft have been without the walls : it being a wife and ex- prefs law of the XII tables, that no one Jhould be buried within the walls. I cannot think that the urns found near St. PauPs were funebrial ; if that fhould have been the cafe, the Roman walls muft have been much farther to the eaft than they have been placed, which by no means appears to have been the fa6t. I WILL only mention two other antiquities found here : very few indeed have been preferved, out of the multitude which muft have been found in a place of fuch importance, and the capital of the Roman empire in Britain. The firft is a fepulchrai monument, in memory of V'wius Marcianus, (a Roman foldier of the fecond legion, quartered here) erected by his wife Januaria Matrina. His fculpture reprefents him as a Britijh foldier, pro- bably of the Cohors Britonum, drefied and armed after the man- ner of the country, with long hair, a fliort lower garment fattened round the waift by a girdle and fibula, a long Sagum or plaid flung over his breaft and one arm, ready to be caft off in time of action, naked legs, and in his right hand a fword of vaft length, Partntalia, p. 267. Gre^ju't Mufeum , 380. C 2 like SAX ON INVASION. like the clymcrt of the later Highlanders', the point is reprefented refting on the ground : in his left hand is a fhort inftrument, with the end feemingly broken off. This fculpture was found in dig- ging among the ruins, after the fire in 1666, in the vallum of the Pftffcrian camp near Ludgate. The foldiers were always buried in the Vallum j the citizens in the Pomocrium *, without the gates. It is very differently reprefented by Mr. Gale. The hair in his figure is fliort, the fword alfo fliort, and held with the left hand acrofs his body ; the inftrument is placed in the left hand, and refembles an exact Baton : the drefs alfo differs. I' give the preference to the figure given by Mr. Horfely f, which he corrected after the figure given by Doctor Prideaux, from the Arundelian marbles. But Mr. Hcrjely fairly confeffes that the reprefentation is far more elegant than in the mutilated original. INVASION. AFTER the Romans deferted Britain, a new and fierce race fucceeded. The warlike Saxons, under their leaders Hengeft and Horfa, landed in 448, at Upwines foot, the prefent EbbsJIete, in the i(le of Thanet. The Britons remained m afters of London at left nine years after that event j for, receiving a defeat in 457, at Creccanford, ('Cray ford) they evacuated 'Kent, and fled with great fear to the capital J. By the year 604, it feems to have reco- vered from the ravages of the invaders. Itb ecame the chief town of the kingdom of Effex. Sebert was the firft Ch'riftian king;, and his maternal uncle Ethelbvrt, king of Kent, founded here a church dedicated to St. Paul. At this time Eede informs us * Parentalia, p. 266. The Pomcerium was a fpace on the outfide of fortifisd . towns, on which all buildings were prohibited. f Gait's Iter Anton. 68. Britannia Romana> 331. tab. 75* J, Sax. Chren. thai GOVERNMENT. tftat it was an emporium of a vaft number of nations, who refort- ed there by fea and by land. IN the reign of that great prince ALFRED, London, or, to ufe the Saxon name, Lundenburg, was made by him capital of all Eng- land. In confequence of a vow he had made, he fent Sighelm, bifhop of Sherbourn, firft to Rome, and from thence to India, with alms to the Chriftians of the town of St. Thomas, now called Bekkeri, or Meliapour : who returned with various rich gems, fome of which were to be feen in the church of Sherbourn, in the days of William of Malmefoury *. It muft not be omitted that he was the firft who, from this ifland, had any commerce with that diftant country. Our commerce by fea, even in the next century, was not very extenfive, the wife monarch Aibtljtan be- ing obliged, for the encouragement of navigation, to promife patents of gentility to every merchant, who fhould, on his ov.4i bottom, make three voyages to the Mediterranean. THE fucceeding ravages of the Danes reduced London, and its commerce, to a low ebb : yet it feems in fome meafure to have recovered itfelf before the Conqucft. We are wonderfully in the dark refpe&ing its ftate of government, both in the Saxon period,, and that of the Conqudl : in refpect to the former, \vc know no more than that it was governed by a Fcrtreve or Portgrave, or Lo\n GOVERNED guardian of the port; and this we learn from the concife charter A y K . granted to the city by IVilliam the Conqueror, in which he falutes William the bifnop, and Godfrey the Porfreve, and all the bur- gefies. " WILLM~ kyng griet Willm bifshop and Godfreg* porteren "and eall the boroughwaren bynnen London franchifce and en- * Snx, Ghron. 86. WiL Malmfl. lib. ii. 248. NOR MAN Cox- CJJJEST. "glifcc 14 POPULATION. <{ glifce jich kyd eth y r jck yell y r gret be ealbra yeara laga yet anceftor to the firft mayor, was alderman of all England > what the duties of his office were, does not appear. HE muft be a Briareus in literature, who would dare to at- tempt a hiftory of our capital, on the great, the liberal, the ele- gant plan which it merits. I, a puny adventurer, animated with a mind incapable of admitting a vacant hour ; reftlefs when un- employed in the rural fcenes to which my fortunate lot has def- tined me, muft catch and enjoy the idea of the minute. In the -j- purfuit 16 JUDICIOUS SITUATION. purfuit of my plan, I wilh to give a flight view of the fhores I am about to launch from: the account muft be brief and confin- ed ; limited to what I fhall fay of their antient -flate, to the pe- liod bounded by the REVOLUTION ; intermixed with the greater events, which have happened in nearer days. THE choice -of the fituation of this great city was moft judi- cious. It is on a gravelly foil; and on a declivity down to the borders of a magnificent river. The flope is evident in every part of the antient city, and the vaft modern buildings. The antient city was defended in front by the river ; on the weft fide by the deep ravine, fmce known by the name of Fleet-ditch > on the north by morafles j on the eaft, as I fufpedt, by another ra- vine. All the land round Wejtminfter Abbey was a flat fen, which continued beyond Fulbam : but a rife commences oppofite to it, and forms a magnificent bend above the curvature of the Thames, c-vcn to the Tower. The Surry fide was in all probability a great expanfe of water, a lake, a Llyn, as the Weljh call it ,* which an ingenious countryman of mine *, not without reafon, thinks might have given a name to our capital ; Llyn Din, or the city on the lake. This moft probably was the original name : and that de- rived from Llong a Ihip, and Din a town, might have been be- flowed when the place became a feat of trade, and famous for the concourfe of (hipping. The expanfe of water might have filled the fpace between the rifing grounds at Deptford, and thofe at Clapbam ; and been bounded to the fouth by the beautiful Surry Hills. Lambeth Marjh, and the Bank Side, evidently were reco- vered from the water. Along Lambeth are the names of Narrow Mr. William 0 it was reftored by archbifhop Morton. He alfo built the gateway; in the lower room of which are ftill to be feen the rings to which the overflowings of the Lollards tower vrere chained. AFTER the civil wars of the laft century, when fanatical was FANATICAL united with political fury, it was found that every building de- FUR*. voted to piety, had fuffered more than they had done in all the rage of family conteft. The fine works of art, and the facred memorials ot the dead, were, except in a few cafes, facrificed to D 2 puritanical 20 LAMBETH PALACE. puritanical barbarifm, or to facrilegious plunder. Lambeth fell to the fhare of the mifcreant regicide Scot. He turned the chapel into a hall, and levelled, for that purpofe, the fine monument of archbifhop Parker : he pulled down the noble hall, the work of Cbicbely, and fold the materials for his own profit. j'uxon t on the Reftoration, found the palace of his predeceflbrs a heap of ruins. His piety rebuilt a greater part than could have been expected from the fhort time he enjoyed the primacy. He rebuilt the great hall on the antient model, when the archbifhop with his particu- lar friends fat at the high table : the fteward with the fervants, who were gentry of the better rank, fat at the table on the right hand lide : the almoner, the clergy, and others, occupied the table on the left. None but nobility or privy counfellors were admitted to the table of the archbifhop. The bifhops themfelves fat at the almoner's; the other guefts at the fteward's. All the meat which was not confumcd, was regularly given to the idle poor, who waited in crowds at the gate. It is not the defect of charity in modern prelates that this cuftom is difufed ; but the happy change in the times. Every one muft now eat the bread of his own induftry j a much more certain fupport than the cafual bounty of the great ; which misfortunes often prevented, and left the object a prey to mifery and famine. What is ftyled the luxury of the times, has by no means fuperfeded deeds of alms. Wealth is more equally diffufed; but charity is equally great: it paiTes now through many channels, and makes lefs noife than when it was poured through fewer dreams. LIBRARY. THE fine library in this palace was founded by archbifhop Bancroft ; who dird in 16 10, and left all his books to his fucccflbrs, for ever. The fucceeding archbifhop, Abbot, bequeathed all his books LIBRARY. ai books in his great ftudy, marked C. C. in the fame unlimited manner. ON the fupprefiion of epifcopacy, this valuable library was preferved by the addrefs of the celebrated Mr. Selden. It feems that archbilhop Bancroft had left his books to his fucceflbrs, on condition that the immediate fuccefTor was to give bond that they fhould not be embezzled ; but delivered entire from one to the other for ever. On failure of this article, they were to go to Chelfea College, in cafe it was built in fix years after his deceafe. The college never was finiflied : but whether any of Bancroft's fucceffors gave the fecurity does not appear. The books were remaining at Lambeth in 1646, two years after the execution of archbifhop Laud; when probably fearing for their fafety in times fo inimical to learning, Mr. Selden fuggefted to the univer- fity of Cambridge their right to the books ; and the whole were delivered into their pofTeflion. On the Reftoration, archbifhop Juxon demanded the return of the library j which was repeated by his fucceffor Sheldon, as founded-on the will of the pious foun- der : and they were reftored accordingly. Archbifhop Sheldon added a confiderable number : and archbifhop 'Tenifon augmented it with part of his books. THAT very worthy prelate archbifhop Seeker, befides a confi- derable fum expended on making catalogues to the old regiflers of the fee, left to the library all fuch books from his own, as were not in the former, which comprehended much the largeft and molt valuable part of his own collection. ARCHBISHOP Cornwailis beftowed many valuable books in his life-time. And the prefent archbifliop has given a confiderable fum for fitting up a proper repofitory for the valuable collec- 3 tion it GALLERY. tion of manufcripts. The whole number of printed books amounts to twenty-five thoufand. THE other apartments have within thefe few years received GALLERY. confiderable improvements. The great gallery, which is near ninety feet long by fifteen feet nine inches broad, has lately had the addition of a bow window, by the prefent amiable primate. An. opening has been made towards the river, by the cutting down of a few trees, which admits a moft beautiful view of the wa- ter, part of the bridge, and of the venerable abbey. This gallery is filled with portraits of primates or prelates, among others, that of cardinal Pole, the founder of this very room. Over the chim- ney are the heads of thofe of the earlier times, fuch as archbifhop Warbam, by Holbein ; St. Dun/tax, and archbiihop Chichely : the firft imaginary, the lad probably taken from painted glafs. Among thefediftino-uifhed characters, Katherine Parr has found a CP o place, and not without juft clamej it being reafonable tofuppofe, but for the death of her tyrant, Ihe would have been devoted to the Make for the favor fhe bore to the reformed religion. I muft not omit mention of the two portraits of archbifhop Parker, fccond primate of the proteftant religion -, one is by Holbein, the other by Richard Lyne, who jointly practiied the arts of painting and engraving in the iervice of this great patron of fcience*. IN T the dining-room is a fuccefiion of primates, from the violent and imprudent Laud to the quiet and difcreet Cornwallis. The portrait of Laud is admirably done by Vandyke -, Juxon, from a good original which I faw laft year at Longleate , Tenifon, by Simon Dubois -, Herring, by Hogarth ; Hutton, by Hudfon ; Seeker, i * Granger, i. 202. PORTRAITS. 23 by Reynolds -, and Cornwallis, by Dance. Here are befides in the gallery, by the lad matter, portraits of Derrick late bifhop of Lon- don, and Thomas late bifhop of Winchefter : and another of biftiop Hoadley, which does honor to the artift, his wife, Sarah Curtis. When I looked into the garden I could not but recall the fcene of conference between the great the wile earl of Clarendon, and the unfortunate Laud. Hyde laid before him the refentment of ail ranks of people againft him for his paflionate and ill-man- nered treatment even of perfons of rank. The primate attended to the honeft chancellor with patience, and palliated his faults *. The advice was forgotten, nor his folly cured till he had involved himfelf and mailer in deftruction. A MORE phlegmatic cohabitant of the garden, enjoyed his fitua- LONGEVITY OF A tion during many fuccefilons to this fdf-devoted metropolitan. A 'Tortoife, introduced here in his days (in 1633) lived till the year 1753, the time of archbifhop Herring, and poflibly might have lived till the prefent, had it not been killed by the negli- gence of the gardener. IN the veftry is a portrait of Luther and his wife; the lady ap- pears pregnant. This great reformer left three fons, John, Mart in t and Paul. IN one of the apartments of the palace is a performance that does great honor to the ingenious fpoufe of a modern dignitary j a copy in needlework of a Madonna and child, after a moft capital performance of the Spanijh Murillo. There is moft admirable grace in the original, which was fold laft winter at the price of eight hundred guineas f. It made me lament that this excellent maf- * Life of Edward earl of Clarendon , o&avo ed. i. 62. f In Mr. Vandirguchi's fale. ter LAMBETH CHURCH. tor had wafted fo much time on beggars and ragged boys. Beau- tiful as it is, the copy came improved out of the hand of our fldl- ful countrywoman; a judicious change of color of part of the drapery, has had a moft happy effect, and given new excellence to the admired original. CHURCH. THE parifh church of Lambeth is at a fmall diftance from the palace, has a plain tower, and the architecture of the gothic of the time of Edward IV. It has very little remarkable in it, ex- cept the figure of a pedlar and his dog, painted in one of the windows. Tradition fays, that the parifh was obliged to this man for the bequeft of a piece of land, which bears the name of the unhappy queen of James II ; who flying with her infant prince from the ruin im- pending over their houfe, after eroding the Thames from the ab- dicated Whitehall, took fhelter beneath the antient walls of this church a whole hour, from the rain of the inclement night of December 6th, 1688. Here Ihe waited with aggravated mifery, till a common coach, procured from the next inn, arrived, and conveyed her to Gravejend, from whence (he failed, and bid an eternal adieu to thefe kingdoms *. IN this place reft from their labors feveral of the later pri- mates, without any remarkable monument, except their good works, to preferve them from oblivion -, among them is Bancroft ', Teni/on, Hutton ; and in a paflage leading to the palace, are the remains of Seeker. * Rapin, zd ed, folio ii, 781, HERE BYE. CELEBRATED PERSONS INTERRED. 45 HERE likewife was interred the mild, amiable, and polifhed BI$HO?TOKSTAL. prelate Cuthbert Tunftal, bifhop of Durham, who, deprived on ac- count of his attachment to the old religion, by Edward VI. was reftored by Mary, and again deprived by Elizabeth : here he found an afylum in the family of archbifhop Parker, fo highly was he efteemed even by the proteftants , here he pafled his days with honor and tranquillity, till his death in 1559. IN the fame church are the remains of Tbirlebye, once bifliop BISHOP of Ely, deprived for the fame caufe by Elizabeth. By the charity of the above-mentioned great prelate, he found the fame protec- tion as his fellow-fufferer Tunftal. To fhew the humanity of proteftantifm, he was indulged with the company of his fecretary. He merited every favor. Being joined in commifilon with Banner for the degradation of Cranmer, he performed his office with as much tendernefs, as his aflbciate did with brutality, and melted into tears over fallen greatnefs. His body was found in digging the grave for archbifhop Cornwallis. His long and venerable beard, and every part, was entire, and of a beautiful whitenefs : a douched hat was under his left arm : his drefs that of a pilgrim, as he efteemed himfelf to be upon earth. A NEAT buft, with the body in armour, and with artillery, ROBERT SCOT. drums, and trophies around, exhibits the military character of Robert Scot, who entered into the fervice of Guftavus ddolpbus, and brought with him two hundred men. He was made mufter- mafter general to that hero ; afterwards he went into the fervice of Denmark-, and finally, in 1631, clofed his life in that of Charles I. who made him gentleman of his privy chamber, and beftowed on him a penfion of fix hundred a year. He was of the family of the antient barons of Bawtrie, in North Britain -, but E his ft f ACCOUNTOFTHE fc.vETOR or his charafter furpaflcd his origin. He was the inventor of lea- LEATHERN TILLERY. AR- TOMB OF THB artillery, which he introduced into the army of Guftavus, and by that means contributed highly to the glorious victory of Lcipftc. Harfe, and other hiftorians of that illuftrious prince, fpeak of the invention and its important fervices, but were either igno- rant of the inventor, or chofe to fupprefs his merit *. Tilly him- felf confefles the fuperiority of thefe portable cannons, after his own heavy artillery, fo admirably ferved as they were, funk under the vivacity of the fire of thefe light pieces. IN the church-yard is a tomb which no naturalift fhould neg- lect vifiring, that of old John Tradejcant, who, with his fon, lived in this parifh. The elder was the firft perfon who ever formed a cabinet of curiofities in this kingdom. The father is faid to have been gardener to Charles I. But Parkinfon fays, " fometimes be- the Britijb Hippodromes, belonging to Meffrs. Aftley and Hughes* vhere the wonderful fagacity of that moft ufeful animal the horfe is fully evinced. While we admire its admirable docility and ap- prehenfion, we cannot lefs admire the powers of the riders, and the graceful attitudes the human frame is capable of receiving. But there is another fpecies of.amufement, ufually reckoned of a def- picable kind, yet, ever fmce I read Doctor Delaney's thoughts* on the fubject, I have looked on the art of tumbling with admira- tion. It fhews us how fearfully and wonderfully we are made. What infinite misfortunes would befal us, (which almoft every frep is liable to) was it not for that wife conftruction of parts, that pliability of limb, that, unperceived by us, protects us in every contrived motion, or accidental flip, from the moft dire and dif- abling calamities ! THE borough of Soutbwark joins to the parifh of Lambeth on the eaft, and confifts of the parifhes of Si. OIavis t St. Saviour's, St. George's, and St. Thomas's. Obfcrvations upon lord Orrery's remarks on the life and writings of Doftor p. i6a to 165. IT SOUTHWARD IT was called by the Saxons, Suthverke, or the South work, in yefpect to fome fort or fortification bearing that afpect from Lon- don. It was alfo called the Borough) or Burg, probably for the fame reafon. It was long independent of the city of London : but, in confideration of the inconveniences arifing from the efcape of malefactors from the great capital into this place, it was, in 1327 granted by Edward III. to the city, on payment of ten pounds annually. It was then called the village of Soutbwark ; it was afterwards ftyled the bailiwick of Southwark, and the mayor and commonalty of London appointed the bailiff. This power did not feem fufficient to remedy the evil, a more intimate con- nection was thought neceffary: in the reign of Edward VI. on a valuable confideration payed to the crown, it was formed into a twenty- fixth ward, by the title of Bridge ward without, and Sir John dyliff was its firft alderman. It had long before enjoyed the privilege offending members to parlement. It is mentioned among the boroughs in the time of Edward III -, but the names of the ftrft members which appear, are Robert Afton and I'bomas Bulk, in 1542. The members are elected by the inhabitants paying fcot and lot, and returned by the bailiff. THE ft; ft time that Soutbwark is mentioned in hiftory, is on occafion of earl Godwin's failing up the river to attack the royal navy of fifty Ihips, lying before the pala^eC of Wejlminfter , this was in 1052, when we are told he went ad Suthwecree y and ftayed there till the return of the tide *. ST. GEORGE'S church is of considerable antiquity j it is men* * Simton.Diintlm, in x Script, i. 186. tioned KING'S-BENCH PRISON. House or CHARLES BRAN- CO. v. THE KINC'S-BENCH PRISON. tionedin 1 122, when Thomas of Arderne and his fon beflowed it on the neighboring monks of Bermondjey *. It was rebuilt in *736, by Price, with a fpire fteeple moft aukwardly Handing upon ftilts. NOT far from this church flood the magnificent palace of Charles Brandon duke of Suffolk, the defer ved favorite of Henry VJII. After his death, in 1 545, it came into the king's hand, who eftablifhed here a royal mint. It at that time was called South- wark Place, and in great meafure preferved its dignity. Edward VI. once dined in it. His fifter and fuccefibr prefented it to Heath archbifliop of Tork, as an inn or refidence for him and his fuc- ceflbrs, whenever they repaired to London. As to the Mint, it became a fanctuary to infolvent debtors ; at length becoming the peft of the neighborhood, by giving fhelter to villains of every fpecies, that awakened the attention of parlement -, which, by the ftatutes 8 and 9 William III. c. 27. 9 George I. c. 29. and ix George I. c. 22. entirely took away its abufed privileges. THE Kings-bench prifon, in this parifti, is of great antiquity. To this prifon was committed Henry prince of Wales, after- wards Henry V, by the fpirited and honeft judge Gafcoigne, for ftriking or infulting him on the bench. It is difficult to fay which we fhould admire moft, the courage of the judge, or the peaceful fubmifiion of the prince to the commitment, after he was freed from the phrenzy of his rage. The truth of the fact has been doubted ; but, it is delivered by feveral grave hiftori- ans, fuch as Hall, who died in 1547, who mentions it folio 15 Graf ton, perhaps his copyift, at p. 443 j and the learned Sir Stew's Survaie, 789. Thomas STRIKING JUDGE GASCOIGNE. 29 Thomas Elyot, a favorite of Henry VIII. in his book called The Governour, relates the fame in p. 102, book ii. c. 6, of that treatife. Thefe were all long prior to Shakefpeare, or the author of another play, in the time of queen Elizabeth, ftyled Henry V. It muft have been the poets that took up the relation from the hiftorians, and not the hiftorians from the poets, as fome people have aliened. This was not the only time of his' commitment. In 1411 he was confined by John Hornejby *, mayor of Coventry p , in the Cheleyfnwr in that city $ and arrefted with his two brothers hi the priory, probably for a riot committed there. The reform of this great prince was very early i for I never can believe him to have been a hypocrite when he wrote in that ftrain of piety to his father, on the fabject of a victory obtained at UJk, over the famous Glyndwr\. The other play of Henry V. which I allude to, was written before the year 1592. In the fcene in which the hiftorical account of the violence of the prince againft the chief juftice is introduced, Richard Tarlton, a famous come- dian and mimic, acts both judge and clown. One Knell, another drole comedian of the time, acted the prince, and gave the chief juftice fuch a blow as felled him to the ground, to the great diverfion of the audience. Tarlton the judge, goes off the ftage ; and returns, 'Tarlton the clown-, he demands the caufe of the laughter, " O," fays one, " had thou beenft here to have feen * c what a terrible blow the prince gave the judge." " What, " ftrike a judge!" fays the clown, "terrible indeed muft it be * DugJale's Hi ft. of Warwckjkire, i. 148. f Tour in Walet> i. 369. w to MARSHALSEA. (lands here ; this court had particular cognizance of murders, and other offences, com- mitted within the king's court : fuch as (Iriking, which in old times was puniftied with the lofs of the offending hand. Here allb perfons guilty of piracies, and other offences on the high feas, were confined. In 1377 it was broke open by a mob of failors, who murdered a gentleman confined in it for killing one of their comrades, and who had been pardoned by the court f It was again broke open by Wat fyler and his followers, in 1381. It cfcapedin the infamous riots of 1780; but the King's Bench, and the Borough prifon, and another Borough prifon called the Clink, were nearly at the fame inftant facrificed to their fury. IN this parilh, near the water, on Bank-fide, flood Paris- garden, one of the antient playhoufes of our metropolis. Ben Johnfon is reproached by one Decker, an envious critic, with his ill fuccefs on the ftage, and in particular with having performed the part of Zuliman, at Paris-Garden. It feems to have been much frequented on Sundays. This profanation was at length fully puniftied, by the dire accident which, heaven-direcled, be- fel the fpectators in 1582, when the fcaffolding fuddenly fell, and multitudes of people were killed or miferably maimed. The omen feems to have been accepted, for, in the next century, the manor of Paris-Garden was erefted into a parifti, and a church * Br. Biog. ill. *I45* t Strut' s Survaie, 781, founded P A R I S - G A & D E N. 41 founded, under the name of CHRIST'S. This calamity feems to have been predicted by one Crowley, a poet, of the reign of Henry VIII ; who likewife informs us, that in this place were ex- hibited bear-baitings, as well as dramatical entertainments, and upon Sunday s y as they are to this time at the Combat des Animaux y at Paris. What folly is this to keep, with danger, A great maftive dog, and fowle ouglie bear ; And to this an end, to fee them two fight, With terrible tearings, a ful ouglie fight. And methinkes thofe men are moft fools of al, Whofe ftore of money is but very fmal, And yet every Sunday they wil furely fpend One peny or two, the Bearwards living to mend. At Paris Garden each Sunday a man flial not fail To find two or three hundred for the Bearwards ra?e. One halfpeny a piece they ufe for to give, When fome have not more in their purfes, I believe. Wei, at the laft day their confcience wil declare, That the poor ought to have al that they may fpare. If you therefore give to fee a bear fight, Be fure God his curfe upon you wil light. BEYOND this place of brutal amufement were the Bear-Gar* den y and place for baiting of bulls; the Britifo cirri: " Herein," fays Stow *, " were kept beares, bulls, and other beafts to " be bayted, as alfo maftives in feveral kenels, nourifhed to in Canterbury, or of Battel* or of Hyde, or the prior of Lewes, had here their temporary refidences for them or their trains, for the fake of thefe conveniencics, in that period of cruel and unnatu- ral reftricYion. BESIDES thefe temporary inanfions of holy men, were others, for thofe who preferred the monaftic life. The firft religious h U k Was that f Sft Mary Over * e > & id to have been originally founded by a maiden named Mary, for filters, and endowed with the profits of a ferry crofs the Eye, or river 'fhames* Swithen, a noble lady, changed it into a college of priefts : but in the year 1 1 06 it was re-founded by William Pont de L'arcbe, and William Dauncy, Norman knights, for canons regular. The lad prior was Bartholomew Linjled, alias Fowle, who furrendered the convent 1 Third Scrmcn preached before king Edward, p, 42. to ST. SAVIOUR'S CHURCH. 4S to Plenty, in October 1540, and received in reward a penfion of . 100 a year. Its revenues, according to Dugdale y were . 654. 6s. 6d.* William Giffard, bifhop of Winckefter, in the reign of Henry I, was a great benefactor to this place, and built the con- ventual church. It certainly was not the prefent church, for in the days of Giffard the round arch and clumfy pillar was in full fafhion. This church was probably burnt in the fire which con- fumed the priory, in 1207 : for we know it was rebuilt in the time of Richard II. or Henry IV. The whole is a beautiful pile of gothic architecture, in form of a crofs, but much deformed by a wooden gallery, which the increafe of the congregation occa- fioned to be built. On the diffolution, the inhabitants of South- wark purchafed the church of the king, and converted it into a parifh church j and, by act of. parlement, united it with that of St. Margaret's oflhe Hill, under the name of St. Saviour's. WITHIN, beneath a rich gothic arch in the north wall, is the TOMB OF THE monument of the celebrated poet John Cower. His figure is placed POET recumbent, in a long gown ; on his head is a chaplet of rofes j and from his neck a collar of S S ; under his feet are three books, denoting his three principal works. On one is infcribed Specu- lum Meditantis, which he had written in French j on the fecond, Vox ClamanliSy written in Latin ; and on the laft, ConfeJJlo Aman- tis, in Englijh. Above, on the wall, are painted three female... figures crowned, and with fcrolls in their hands. * Tanner, I heartily wifh that the editor of the laft edition of this nfeful author had paged the work ; I have caufed my copy to be paged with a pen, for my own ufe, fo have left a blank to be filled. i The THE POET GOWEK. The firft, which is named Cbaritie, hath on her fcroll . En toy qui es fite de Dieu le pere, Sauve foit quc gift fouz cell piere. On that of the fecond, who is named Mercic t O bone Jefu fait ta mercie, Al alme dont le corps gift icy. And on the fcroll of the third, named P///V, Pur ta pite J E s u regarde ! Et met ceft alme en fauve garde. HE founded a chauntry for himfelf within thefe walls, and was alfo a fignal benefactor to the church. He was a man of family, and had a liberal education, according to the times, in the inns of court. Notwithstanding the word Armiger in the modern in- fcription, it is probable he was a knight*. He was cotemporary with, and the great friend of Chaucer, whom he flyles tc his pupil " and his poet ;" a proof of feniority, notwithftanding he furvived him. Crete wel CHAUCER, whan ye mete, As my Difciple and my Poete ; For in the flours of his youth, In fondrie wife, as he well couth, Of Detees and of Songes glade, The which he for my fake made. * Lcland Collcft. iii. Chaucer B I S H O P A N D R E W S. 47. Chaucer is not^a bit behind hand in marks of refpefh O moral GOWER, this boke I direft To the, and to the philofophical Strcete. To vouchfafe there nede is to correct?, Of your benignities and zelis gode. THESE excellent characters lived together in the mod perfect ^mity : Chaucer was a fevere reprover of the vices of the clergy ; and each united in their great and fuccefsful endeavour to give a polifh to the EngHJh language. Chaucer gave a free rein to his poetical mirth. " Gower's poetry was grave and fententious. '* He has much good fenfe, folid reflection, and ufeful obfervation. " But he is ferious and didactic on all occafions. He prefervts " the tone of the fcholar, and the moralift, on the mod lively to- " pics*'." Thefe fathers of Englijh poetry followed each other clofely to the grave. Chaucer died in 1400, aged 72. Cower in 1402, blind and full of years. A RECUMBENT figure of a bifhop, in his robes and badges, as O p BISHOP prelate of the Garter, commemorates the pious, hofpitable, and ANDREWS. witty Launcdot Andrews, bifhop of Winchefter, who died in his ad- jacent palace, in 1624, aged feventy-one. James I. at dinner, attended by Neale, bifhop of Durham, and this amiable church- man, afked of the firft, whether he might not take his fubjects money without the afTiflance of parlement ? " God forbid," fays the fervile Neale, u but you fhould : you are the breath of our " noftrils." Then, turning to Andrews^ Well, my lord, what fay you ? The good bifhop would have evaded the queftion, but the * Mr. Thomas Ir'arton. king W I N C H E S T E R-H O U S E. \Vi: CHESTER- HOUSE. THE CLINK, MONUMENT OF LOCKYER, A QUACK DOCTOR. king being peremptory, he anfwered, " Then, Sir, I think it " lawful to take my brother Nealis money, for he offers it." // 'inchefter-houfe was a very large building, not far from this church: the founder is unknown. Till the civil wars of the laft century, it was the refidence of the prelates during their atten- dance in parlement. Much of it is yet ftanding, tenanted by different families, or converted into warehoufes. The great court is called Winchefter-fquare, and in the adjacent ftreet is the abutment of one of the gates. THE Clink, or manor of Southwark, is ftill under the jurifdtc- tion of the bifhops of Winchefter ; who, befides a court-leet, keeps a court of record on the Bank-fide, by his fteward and bailiff", for pleas of debt, trefpafies, &c. IN Southivark Pc.rk, on the back of PPinchefter-boufey was found, by Sir William Dugdale, knight, in 1658, in finking the cellars for new buildings, a very curious teflelated pavement, with a border in form of a ferpentine column * A FIGURE with its head reclined on one hand, in a great wig, and furred gown, reprefents Lionel Lockyer, a celebrated quack of the reign of 'Charles II. His virtues and his pills are thus exprefled; His virtues and his pills fo welt are known, That envy can't confine them under ftone ; But they'l furvive his duft, and not expire Till all things elfe, at th' univerfal fire. This verfe is loll, his pills embalm him fafe To future times without an epitaph. -I believe the laft to be prophetic ; his pills being to be found -Dugdale on embanking, "65. among REMARKABLE EPITAPHS. 49 among the long lift of quackeries which promife almoft immor- tality to the credulous taker. HERE are two other ridiculous epitaphs, which promife to the RIDICULOUS deceafed a place in court, after they have pafied the limits of the grave. Thus, John Trehearne, porter to James I. is told of the reverfion he is to have in heaven : In thy king's court good place to thee is given, Whence thou malt go to the King's court of heaven. But Mifs Barford is flattered in a ftill higher manner : Such grace jhe King of kings beftow'd upon her, That now fhe lives with him a maid of honour. AGAINST a wall is a fingular diminutive figure, one foot three inches long, faid to reprefent a dwarf, one William Emerfon, who died in 1575, act. 92. He is reprefented half naked, much ema- ciated, lying in his fhroud on a mat, moft neatly cut. I SHALL conclude this lift with the monument of Richard Humble, his two wives, and children j not on account of their grotefque figures, but for the fake of the pretty and moral in- fcription cut on one fide. Like to the damafc. rofe you fee, Or like the bloflbm on the tree, Or like the dainty flower of May, Or like the morning of the day ; Or like the fun, or like the (hade, Or like the gourd which Jonas had : Even fo is man, whofe thread is fpun, Drawn out and cut, and fo k done. A PRITTY ONE. H Th 5 o ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL; The rofe withers, the bloflbm blafteth, The flower fades, the morning hafteth ; The fun fets, the lhadow flies, The gourd confumes, and man he dies. A LITTLE to the weft of this church is a lane called Stoney ftreetj which ran down to the water-fide, nearly oppoiite to Dow- gate, and probably was the continuation of the Watling-ftreet road. This is fuppofed to have been a Roman Trajeftus, and the ferry from Londinum into the province of Cantlum. Marks of the antient caufey have been difcovered on the London fide. On this, the name evinces the origin. The Saxons always give the name of Street to the Roman roads; and here they gave it the addition of Stein or Stoney , from the pavement they found it compofed of. DEADMAN'S^>/^ till the year 1428, when a compofmon was made be- tween ITS ANTIENT AND PRESENT STATE. 51 tween the abbot and the matter of the hofpital of St. Thomas, for all the lands and tenements held of the abby for the old rent, to be payed to the faid abbot. At the diflblution it was furrendered into the hands of the king. In 1552, it was founded a third time by the citizens of London-* who purchafed the fupprefied hofpital : in July they began the reparation, and in November following, opened it for the reception of the fick and poor ; not fewer than two hundred and fixty were the firft objects of the charity. The patron was at the fame time changed : the turbulent Thomas Becket very properly giving place to the worthy apoftle St. Thomas. TOWARDS the end of the lad century, the building fell into decay. In the year 1699 the governors folicited the benevolence of the public for its fupport : and with fuch fuccefs, that they were enabled to re-build it on the magnificent and extenfive plan we now fee. It confifts of three courts, with colonnades be- tween each : three wards were built at the fole coft of 'Thomas Frederic, efquire, of London: and three by Thomas Guy, citi- zen and ftationer. The whole containing eighteen wards, and 442 beds. The expences attending this foundation are about /. 10,000 a year. In the middle of the fecond court is a ftatue in brafs of Edward VI. and beneath him the reprefentation of the halt and maimed. IN that of the third court is a ftone ftatue of Sir Robert Clayton, knight, lord mayor of London, drefled in character, in his gown and chain. He gave . 600 towards re-building this hofpital ; and left ,. 2,300 towards the endowing it. The ftatue was erected before his death, which happened in 1714. H 2 THIS a G U Y'S HOSPITAL. THIS excellent inftitution has, within the lad ten years, ad- mitted and difcharged, of In-patients, 30,717. Out-patients, 47,099. And in the laft account of 1787, it appears there were admitted and difcharged 2,758 In-patients, S> 1 9 1 Out-patients, Total in the year 7>949 MR. GUT'S MR. Guy, not fatisfied with his great benefactions to the hofpi- tal of St. Thomas, determined to be the fole founder of another. The relation is very remarkable. At the age of feventy-fix, he took a leafe, of the governors of the former, of a piece of ground oppofite to rt, for the term of nine hundred and ninety- nine years, and on it, in 1721, at the expence of .18,793. 16 s. began to build the hofpital which bears his name : and left to endow it, the prodigious lum of,. 219,499, amaffed from a very fmall be- ginning, chiefly by purchafing feamen's tickets, in the reign of queen Anne; and by his great fuccefs in the buying and felling South Sea ftock, in the memorable year 1720; and alfo a vaft fum by the fale of bibles. He feems to have profited both of GOD and Mammon. I think he was a native of ^Tamwortb, and reprefentative for that borough. His death happened on December 27th, 1724; before which he faw his hofpital covered with the roof. In the firft court is his ftatue in brafs, drefled in his livery gown. Befides his public expences, he gave, during life, to many of his poor relations, . 10 or . 20 a year* and to others money to advance them in life j to his aged relations, /. 870 in annuities ; and to his younger relations and executors, the fum of .75,589 ! I* B E R M O N D S E Y A B B Y. 53 IN the chapel (fhouldering GOD'S altar) is another ftatue of Mr. Guy, a moft expenfive performance by Mr. J. Baccn, in 1779, in white marble. He is reprefented Handing, in his livery gown, with one hand raifing a miferable fick object, and with the other pointing to a fecond object, on a bier, carried by two per- fons into his hofpital. This fuperfluity cod a thoufand pounds -, a proof of the exuberant wealth of the foundation, which could fpare fuch a fum to be wafted on an idle needlefs occafion. I was told that at this time there were only two hundred beds : three wards being out of ufe, undergoing certain alterations. But I could not obtain the left account of the annual number of patients, or of ex- penditure, or revenue i which other hofpitals never fail of laying before the public. IN the laboratory is a large medallion in white marble of the great and pious BOYLE. THE other religious houfe in Southwark was Bermondjey, found- BERMONDSEY ed in 1082, by Aylwin Childe, a citizen of London, for monks of ABBY, the Clumac order: a cargo of which were imported hither by favor of archbifhop Lanfranc, in the year 1089, from the priory De Caritafz, on the Loire, in Nivernois. Soon after the refumption of the alien priories, it was converted into an abby by Richard II. In 1539*, it was furrendered into the king's hands by Robert de Wharton, who had his reward, not only of a penfion of ,. 333. 6s. 8 d. but alfo the bifhoprick of St. Afaph f in commendam. The revenues of the houfe at the dififolution were .474. i/\.s. 4^. ; the poor monks received the annual penfion of from ten to about five pounds apiece. * Tanner. f Willis's Allies, i. 230. THE 54 ANTIENT BUILDINGS; THE conventual church was then pulled down by Sir 1'homas Pope, who built a magnificent houfe on the fite. This became the habitation of the Ratcliffs, earls of Sitffex. Thomas, the great rival of the favorite earl of Leicefter, breathed his laft within its walls. THE prefent parochial church of St. Mary Magdalen was founded by the priors of Bermondjey, for the ufe of their adjoining tenants. THE remains of antiquity in this neighborhood are, the ancient gate of the abby, with a large arch and a poftern on one fide. Adjoining is part of a very old building ; and on pafling beneath the arch, and turning to the left, is to be feen, within a court, a houfe of very great antiquity, called (for what reafon I know not) king Johns court. BERMONDSEV ftreet may at prefent be called the great Wool Staple of our kingdom. Here refide numbers of merchants, who fupply Rochdale, Leicejler, Derby, Exeter, and moft other weaving countries in this kingdom, with that commodity. As Southwark may be confidered as a great fuburb to London, numbers of other trades are carried on there to a vaft extent : the Tanners, Curriers, Hatters, Dyers, Iron-founders, Rope-makers, Sail-makers, and Block-makers, occupy a confiderable part of the borough. THE moft eaftern parifh in Southivark, is that of St. Olave or Olaf, fo named from the Danijh prince who was mafTacred by his ST. OUAVS, o. Pagan fubjects. The church appears to have been founded near five hundred years ago*. The parifh extends from the fpot on Z,0 who vifited Rome in 1156. IVeever exprefsly fays, " He brought from thence certain workmen, and rich por- " phery ftones, whereof hee made that curious, fingular, rare " pavement before the high altar; and with thefe ftones and " workmen he did alfo frame the Ihrine of Edward the Con- and Vinia his wife. It differs in form from * Engraven by Mr. Virtue, and publifhed among the Vetujia Monumenta, ttb. xvi. f Funeral Monuments, 485. 4 the EDWARD THE CONFESSOR. 63, die fhrine of St. Edward, but is formed of the fame materials, and adorned with the fame twitted columns. ALONG the freeze of the fcreen of the chapel, are fourteen legendary fculptures refpefting the Confeflbr. They are fb rudely done, that we may conclude that the art at this time was at a very low ebb. The firft is the trial of queen Emma. The next the birth of Edward. Another is his coronation. The fourth tells us how our faint was frightened into the abolition of the dcme-gelt y by his feeing the devil dance upon the money bags. The fifth is the ftory of his winking at the thief who was robbing his treafury. The fixth is meant to relate the appearance of our SAVIOUR to him. The feventh fhews how the invafion of England was fruftrated by the drowning of the Danijh king. Eighthly is feen the quarrel between the boys Tofti and Harold, predicting their refpective fates. In the ninth fculpture is the Confeffbr's vifion of the feven fleepers. Tenthly, how he meets St. John the Evangelift in the guife of a pilgrim. Eleventhly, how the blind were cured by their eyes being wafhed in his dirty water. Twelfthly, how St. John delivers to the pilgrims a ring. In the thirteenth they deliver the ring to the king, which he had un- knowingly given to St. John as an alms, when he met him in the form of a pilgrim. This was attended with a mefiage from the Saint, foretelling the death of the king. And the fourteenth fhews the confequential hafte made by him to complete his pious foundation *. IN this very chapel is a third proof of the (kill of either Cava- All thefe are accurately engraven, and folly explained, in the firft volume of Mr. Carter'* Antiquities. lint 6 4 TOMBS. KINKY III. HIS Ihti or fome of his pupils. It is an altar tomb of Henry himfelf, enriched like the fhrine, and with wreathed columns at each cor- ner *. The figure of this prince, who died in 1272, is of brafs, and placed recumbent. This is'fuppofed to have been the firft brazen image known to have been cad in our kingdom. The little book, fold to the vifitors of this folemn fcenery at the door, will be a fufficient guide to the fine and numerous funebrial memorials of the place. Let me only obferve, that here may be read an excellent lecture on the progrefs of thefe efforts of human (kill, from the fimple altar tomb to the moft oftentatious proofs of human vanity. The humble recumbent figure with uplifted hands, as if deprecating the juftice of Heaven for the offences of this mortal ftate ; or the proper kneeling attitude, fupplicating that mercy which the pureft muft (land in need of, may be feen here in various degrees of elegance. The carelefs lolling attitude of heroes in long gowns and flowing perriwigs, next fucceed ; and afcer them, bufts or ftatues vaunting their merits, and attended with fuch a train of Pagan deities, that would almoft lead to fup- pofe onefelf in a heathen Pantheon inftead of a Cbrtftian church. IN the antient tombs there is a dull uniformity. The fides are ofcen embellifhed with figures of the offspring of the deceafedj often with figures of mourners, pleureurs, or weepers f> frequently in monaftic habits, as whole convents were wont (and flill are ac- cuftomed, See SandfcrcT* Genealogies, 92. Dart, tab. 85. vol. ii. Gaugb's Sepulch. Mon. i. 57, tab. xx, xxi. f See the curious contract, in Dugdale's Warwickjhire, p. 354, between the executors of Richard Beauchamp earl of Warwick, and John Ejfix, marbler ; William Aitflin, founder j and Thomcu Sttvens, copper-fmith j for their making xiv TASTE IN SCULPTURE. 6r cuftomed, in Catholic countries) to pour out their pious inhabi- tants to form procefllons at the funerals of the great. The tomb of Aymer de Valence ', in this abby, is furrounded by his mourners. IN the reign of queen Elizabeth^ and James I. begins to appear a ray of tafte in the fculptors. I fhall inftance one of the fix fons of Henry lord Norris, who appear kneeling round his magnificent cenotaph (for he was buried at Rycot) in the chapel of St. An- drew. This figure has one hand on his breaft, the other a little removed from it, in attitude of devotion, inexpreffibly fine. Lord Norris died in 150*9 *. ANOTHER proof is in the monument of Sir Francis Vere> who died in 1608, diftinguiflied by thirty years of able fervice in the low countries, in the reign of Elizabeth. He lies in a gown re- cumbent; over him four fine figures of armed knights, kneeling on one knee, fupport a marble flab, on which are ftrewed the various parts of his armour. At Bredah is the tomb of Ingel- bert II. count of Naffau, who died in 1504; executed on the fame idea. THE figure of young Francis Hollis, fon of John earl of Clare, cut off at the age of eighteen, in 1622, on his return from a cam- xiv lords and ladyes in divers veftures called weepers, and xiv images of mour- ners , to be gilt by Barthslemew Lambefpring t Dutchman, and goldfmythe of Lon- don, Confult alfo Mr. Goug&'s Sepulchral Monuments, i. preface, p. 7. * Dugdalis Baronage, U. 404. Dart, by miftake, calls this nobleman Francis ; who was grandfon to Henry, and left only one child, a daughter. He fell a fui- cide, in a fit of proud refentment, for an imaginary affront on account of a lord Scrcpe, which he had not the fenfc, or the courage, to accommodate in a proper manner. K paign 66 EDWARDI: paign in the Netherlands, has great merit. He is placed, drefied like a Grecian warrior, on an altar, in a manner that did great credit to Nicholas Stone, or rather to the earl, to whom Mr. Wal- $olc juftly attributes the defign. THE figure of Doctor Bujby, matter of Weftminfter fchool, who died in 1695, is elegant and fpirited. He lies refting on one arm j a pen in one, a book in the other hand : his countenance looking up. His loofe drefs is very favorable to the fculptor, who has given it moft graceful flows : the clofe cap alone is inimical to his art. I CANNOT go through the long feries of tombs : nor will I at- tempt, like the Egyptians of old, to bring the filent inhabitants to a pofthumous trial, or bring their frailties to light. I will only mention the crowned heads who here repofe, till that day comes which will level every distinction of rank, and fhew every individual in his proper characters. )ualis erat, fays a beautiful and modeft infcription, tfte dies indicabit. EDWARD I. THE fecond of our monarchs who lies here, is the renowned Edward I. in an altar tomb, as modeft and plain, as his fame was great. A long infcription in monkilh lines imperfectly records the deeds of the conqueror of Scotland, and of the antient Britons. In 1770, antiquarian curiofity was fo urgent with the refpectable dean of Wejtitiinfter, as to prevale on him to permit certain mem- bers of the fociety, under proper regulations, to infpect the remains of this celebrated hero; and difcover, if pofiible, the compofition which gave fuch duration to the human body. IN the minute relation given by that able and worthy antiquary the late Sir Jo/epb 4ylo/e> ban. almoft every particular is given. x On HISREMA1NSINSPECTED. 67 On lifting up the lid of the tomb, the royal body was found wrapped in a ftrong thick linen cloth, waxed on the inGde : the head and face were covered with ajudarium or face-cloth of crim- fon farcenet, wrapped into three folds, conformable to the napkin ufed by our Saviour in his way to his crucifixion, as we are afiur- ed by the church of Rome. On flinging open the external mantle, the corpfe was difcovered in all the enfigns of majefty, richly ha- bited. The body was wrapped in a fine linen cere-cloth, clofely fitted to every part, even to the very fingers and face. The writs de cera renovanda circa corpus regis Edwardi primi * being extant, gave rife to this fearch. Over the cere-cloth was a tunic of red filk damafk j above that a Hole of thick white tifiue crofted the breaft, and on this, at fix inches diftantfrom each other, quatre- foils of philligree-work, of gilt metal fet with falfe ftones, imitat- ing rubies, fapphires, amethyfts, &c. j and the intervals between the quatre-foils on the ftole, powdered with minute white beads, tacked down into a moft elegant embroidery, in form not unlike what is called the true lover's knot. Above thefe habits was the royal mantle of rich erimfon fattin, fattened on the left fhoulder with a magnificent fibula, of gilt metal richly chafed, and orna- mented with four pieces of red, and four of blue, tranfparent pafte, and twenty-four more pearls. THE corpfe, from the waift downwards, is covered with a rich cloth of figured gold, which falls down to the feet and is tucked beneath them. On the back of each hand was a quatre-foil like thofe on the ftole. In his right hand is a fceptre with a crofs of copper gilt, and of elegant workmanfhip, reaching to the right Arcb made on the fpot : and hope it may have the fame weight with the reader, as it has on me whenever I pe- rufe the following piece of inftructive eloquence. " When I " look (fays the delightful moralift) upon the tombs of the great, " every emotion of envy dies in me : when I read the epitaphs " of the beautiful, every inordinate defire goes out : when I meet " with the grief of parents upon a tomb-ftone, my htart melts " with companion : when I fee the tomb of the parents them- c< felves, I confider the vanity of grieving for thofe whom we " muft quickly follow : when I fee kings lying by thofe who " depofed them, when I confider rival wits placed fide by fide, " or the holy men that divided the world with their contefts and " difputes, I refledt with forrow and aftonifhment on the little " competitions, faftions, and debates of mankind. When I read " the feveral dates of the tombs, of fome that died yefterday, , * Thus tranflated in the little hiftorical defcription, 8cc. f But I (hall not quit them without mentioning an error in my Journey to London, p. 389, in naming the lady, who died by the pricking her finger with a needle, lady Su/anna Grey : whereas the fabuliftj in Wejlminfter Abby attribute the misfortune to lady Elizabeth Ruffel. tf and SOMERSET'S SACRILEGIOUS DESIGN. 77 ' and fome fix hundred years ago, I confider that great day when " we fhall all of us be contemporaries, and make our appearance " together." ON the difiblution, this great monaftery, the fecond mitred abby in the kingdom, underwent the common lot of the religious houfes. In 1534, the abbot, William Benfon, fubfcribed to the king's fupremacy, and in 1539 furrendered his monaflery into the royal hands, and received as a reward the office of firft dean to the new foundation, confifting of a dean and twelve preben- daries. He alfo creeled it into a bifhoprick, but its only bi- fhop was 'Thomas Thirleby ; it being fupprefied in 1550, on his tranflation to Norwich. When the protector Somerjet ruled in the fulnefs of power, this magnificent, this facred pile narrowly efcaped a total demolition. It was his defign to have pulled it down to the ground, and to have applied the materials towards the palace he was then erecting in the Strand, known by the name of Somerfet-houk. He was diverted from his defign by a bribe of not fewer than fourteen manors. Mortals fhould be very de- licate in pronouncing the vengeance of Heaven on their fellow- creatures: yet, in this inftance, without prefumption, without fu- perftition, one may fuppofe his fall to have been marked out by the Almighty, as a warning to impious men. He fell on the fcaffold on Tower-hill, lamented only becaufe his overthrow was effected by a man more wicked, more ambitious, and more detefted than himfelf. In their ends there was a confent of juftice: both died by the ax: and both of their headlefs bodies were flung, within a very fhort fpace, into the fame place, among the attainted herd. IN the reign of queen Mary, the former religion of the place experienced a brief reftoration. She with great zeal reftored it- to 78 MUTATIONS IN ITS ESTABLISHMENT. to the ancient conventual (late ; collected many of the rich habits and infignia of that fplendid worfhip ; eftablifhed fourteen monks, and appointed for their abbot John Feckenbam, a man of great piety and learning, who, on his expulfion in the fucceeding reign, finifhed his days in eafy cuftody in Wijbecb caftle. IN 1560 it was changed into a collegiate church, confifting of a dean and twelve fecular canons, and thirty petty canons, and other members, two fchool-mafters, and forty king's or queen's fcholars, twelve almfmen, and many officers and fervants *. But there feems to have been a fchool there from the firft foundation of the abby. Ingulphus, abbot of Cropland, fpeaks of his having been educated at it j and of the dilputations he had with the queen of the Confeffbr, and of the prefents fhe made him in money in his boyifh days f. CLOISTERS, AND BESIDES the church, many of the antient parts remain. The CHAPTER-HOUSE. . ' cloifters are entire, and filled with monuments. The north and -weft cloifters were built by abbot Litttington, who died in 1386 : he alfo built the granary, which was afterwards the dormitory of the king's fcholars ; of later years rebuilt. THE entrance into the chapter-houfe (built in 1250) is on one fide of the cloifter, through a moft rich and magnificent gothic portal, the mouldings moft exquifitely carved : this is divided into two gothic doors. After a defcent of feveral fteps, is the chap- ter-houfe, an octagon, each fide of which had moft fuperb and lofty windows, now filled up, and lighted by lefTer. The opening . into this room is as noble as that from the cloifter. The ftone * Tanner. t Quoted by Sioiv, book i. vol. i. 123. roof ANTIENTREMAINS. 79 roof is deftroyed, and one of pLink is fubftituted. The central pillar remains, light, (lender, and elegant, furrounded by eight others ; bound by two equidiftant fafci the place of refuge abfurdly indulged, in old times, to criminals of certain denomina- tions. The church belonging to it was in form of a crofs, and double } one being built over the other. Such is the account that Doctor Stukely gives of it, for he remembered it ftanding f : it was of vaft ftren^th : and was with much labor demolifhed. It o * is fuppofed to have been the work of the ConfeJ/br. Within its precincts was born Edward V; and here his unhappy mother took refuge, with her younger fon Richard \ to fecure him from his cruel uncle, who had already pofleflion of the elder brother. Seduced by the perfuafions of the duke of Buckingham, and archbifhop of Tork, Ihe furrendered the little innocent, who was inftantly carried to his brother in the Tower, where they were foon after involved in one common fate. Brown's Fafdculut, i. 83, 88. f Arcbatlegia, i. p. & tab. 59. 3 To ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH. CHURCH. To the weft of the fanctuary ftood the Eleemofynary or Almory t 5vhere the alms of the abby were wont to be diftributed. But it is ftill more remarkable for having been the place where the firft printing prefs ever known in England was erected. It was in the year 1474$ when William Caxton, probably encouraged by the learned Thomas Milling, then abbot, produced The Game and Play of the Cbeffe, the firft book ever printed in thefe kingdoms. There is a flight difference about the place in which it was printed, but all agree that it was within the precincts of this reli- gious houfe. Would the monks have permitted this, could they have forefeen how certainly the art would conduce to their overthrow, by the extenfion of knowlege, and the long-concealed truths of Chriftianity ? BENEATH the fhadowof the abby ftands the church of St. Mar- ST. MARGARET'S geret, built originally by Edward the Confefibr. The parifli church had been in the abby, to the great inconveniency of the monks. It was rebuilt in the time of Edward I. and again in that of Edward IV. This church is honored with the remains of the great Sir Walter Raleigh, who was interred here on the fame day on which he was beheaded in Old Palace Tard. It was left to a fenfible churchwarden to inform us of the fact, who in- fcribed it on a board, about twenty years ago. THE eaft window is a moft beautiful compofition of figures. It was made by order of the magiftrates of Dcrt, and by them defigned as a prefent to Henry VII -, but he dying before it was finiihed, it was put up in Waltham abby : there it remained till the difiblution ; when it was removed to Newhall in EJfex, afterwards part of the eftate of general Monk, who preferved it from demoli- tion. In 1758 it was purchafed from the then owner by the in- M habitants ITS FINE WIN- DOW. PALACE AT WESTMINSTER. PALACE AT WESTMINSTER. WESTMINSTER- HALL. habitants of the parifti for four hundred guineas. By the oppofi- tion and abfurdity of a cotemporary prebend, this fine ornament run a great rifque of being pulled down again. The fubjcct is the crucifixion; a devil is carrying off the foul of the hardened thief; an angel receiving that of the penitent. Silly enough! but the other beauties of the piece might furely have moved the reverend zealot to mercy. The figures are numerous, and finely done. On one fide is Henry VI. kneeling ; above him his patron faint, St. George. On the other fide is his queen in the fame atti- tude, and above her the fair St. Catherine with the inftruments of her martyrdom. This charming performance is engraved at the coft of the Society of Antiquaries. THE royal palace which clames feniority in our capital, was that of Weftminfter, founded by the ConfeJJbr y who was the firft prince who had in it regular refidence. It flood near the Thames: the flairs to it on the river flili keep the name of Palace flairs j and the two Palace Yards were alfo belonging to this extenfive pile. THE New Palace Yard is the area before the hall. In old times a very handfome conduit, or, as it was called, fountain, graced one part : and oppofite to the hall, on the fite of the prefent paf- fage into Bridge-ftreet, flood a lofty fquare tower, which, from its ufe, was called the Clock Tower. This may be feen in Hollar's print, N* 6, and in the old plan of London, as it was in the be- ginning of the reign of queen Elizabeth. MANY parts of this antient palace exifl to this day, funk into other ufes. Succeeding monarchs added much to it. The great hall was built by William Rufus, or pofiibly rebuilt j a great hall being too neceffary an appendage to a palace, ever to have been 6 neglected. WEST MI NSTER-H ALL. $3 neglected. The entrance into it from New Palace Yard, was bounded on each fide by towers *, mod magnificently ornamented with numbers of ftatues in rows above each other, now loft, or concealed by modern buildings ; a mutilated figure of an armed man, fuppofed to have been one, was difcovered under the Ex- chequer ftaircafe in 1781 f. The fize may be eftimated, when we are told that Henry III. entertained in this hall, and other rooms, fix thoufand poor men, women, and children, on new-year's day, 1236. It became ruinous before the reign of Richard II. who rebuilt it in its prefent form in 1397 ; and in 1399 kept n * s Cbriftmas in it, with his characteriftical magnificence. Twenty- eight oxen, three hundred fheep, and fowls without number, were daily confumed. The number of his guefts each day were ten thoufand. We need not wonder then, that Richard kept two thoufand cooks. They certainly were deeply learned in their profefllon ; witnefs fhe Forme of Cury, compiled about 1390, by the mafter cooks of this luxurious monarch, in which are pre- ferved receits for the mod exquiftte diihes of the time. This book was printed by the late worthy Guftavus Brander, efq; with an excellent preface by that able antiquary the reverend Mr. Peggc. Mr. Brander favored me with a copy : but, excepting a magician of Laputa could conjure up a few of Richard's cooks, I defpair of ever treating my brethren with a feaft a I' antique. THIS room exceeds in dimenfion any in Europe y which is not fupported by pillars ; its length is two hundred and feventy feet ; the breadth feventy-four. Its height adds to its folemnity. The * Kip has given a view of it, N 40. f Carter's antient fculptures, N I. M a roof COURTS OF JUSTICE. PARLEMENTS HELD IN IT. COURTS OP JUSTICE. CHARLES I. TRIED HERE. roof of timber, moft curioufly conftructed, and of a fine fpecies of gotbic. PARLEMENTS often fat in this hall. In 1397, when, in the reign of Richard II. it was extremely ruinous, he built a temporary room for his parlement, formed with wood, and covered with tiles. It was open on all fides, that the conftituents might fee every thing that was faid and done: and, to fecure freedom of debate, he fur- rounded the houfe with four thoufand Che/hire archers, with bows bent, and arrows nocked ready to fhoot *. This fully anfwered the intent : for every facrifice was made to the royal pleafure. COURTS of juftice, even in early times, fat in this hall, where monarchs themfelves ufually prefided ; for which reafon it was called Curia Domini Regis, and one of the three now held in this hall is called the court of king's-bench. The firft chief juftice was Robert Le Brun, appointed by Henry III. The judges of the courts were made knights bannerets, and had materials given them for making moft fumptuous habits for the occafion. Among others, they had for a cloak cxx bellies of minever pure, i. e. the ermine, which they retain to this day 3 but I obferve green to be the predominant color of their robes. The judges in old times rode to court : at firft on mules j but in the reign of queen Mary, they changed thofe reftive animals for eafy pads. THE folemn trial of Charles I. was held in this hall, before a packed court of judicature : during the intervals of this mockery of juftice, he was carried to the neighboring houfe belonging to Sir Thomas Cotton, in which a room was fitted up by Mr. Kinner~ Jley, a fervant of the king's, belonging to the wardrobe. This was Sirw's Survaie> 888, 889. the HOUSE OF LORDS. 85 the residence of his father, Sir Robert, the famous antiquary, and owner of the noble collection of manufcripts, which, with great public fpirit, he got together and fecured for ever to the ufe of his country. They were at firft kept in Cotton-bcufe, which was purchafed by the crown. They were afterwards removed to another houfe in Wt/hunftcr, and finally depofited in the Eritijb MuJ'eum. Let me add, that the room in which the books were originally lodged, had been the oratory of Edward the Con-t feflbr. THE houfe of lords is a room ornamented with the tapeflry HOUSE OF LORDS. which records our victory over the Spani/h Armada. It was be- fpoke by the earl of Nottingham, lord high admiral, and comman- der in chief on the glorious day. The defign was drawn by Cornelius Vrocm, and the tapeflry executed by Francis Spiering. Vroom had a hundred pieces of gold for his labor. The arras it- felf coft .1628. It was not put up till the year 1650, two years after the extinction of monarchy, when the houfe of lords was ufed as a committee-room for the houfe of commons. The heads of the naval heroes who commanded on the glorious days, form a matchlefs border round the work, animating poflerity to emulate their illuftrious example ! IN the'Pr/#tt's chamber, where his majefty puts on his robes when he comes to the houfe of lords, is a curious old tapeftry, reprefenting the birth of queen Elizabeth. Anne Sullen in her bed j an attendant on one fide, and a nurfe with the child on the other. The ftory is a little broken into by the lofs of a piece of the Arras, cut to make a paffage for the door. But beyond is Henry with his courtiers ; one of which feems difpatched to bring back 6 COURTOFREQJUESTS. back intelligence about the event. On the fouth fide of this room are three gotkic windows. COURT OF THE court of requefts is a vaft room modernized; at prefent a mere walking-place. The outfide of the fouth end fhews the great antiquity of the building, having in it two great round arches, with zigzag mouldings, our mod antient fpecies of archi- tecture. This court has its name becaufe the mafters of it here received the petitions of the fubjects to the king, in which they requefted juftice ; and the mafters advifcd the luppliants how they were to proceed *. THAT court of juftice fo tremendous in the Tudor and part of the Stuart reign, the Star Chamber, ft ill keeps its name ; which was not taken from thejtars with which its roof was faid to have been painted (which were obliterated even before the reign of queen Elizabeth) , but from the Starra f, or Jewijh covenants, - which were depofited there by order of Richard I. in chefts under three locks. No ftarr was allowed to be valid except found in thofe repofitories : here they remained till the baniftiment of the j'eivs by Edward I. In the reigns of Henry VII. and VIII. a new-modelled court was erected here, confifting of divers lords fpiritual and temporal, with two judges of the courts of common law, with the intervention of a jury J. The powers of this court were fo fliamefully abufed, and made fo fubfervient to the revenge of a miniftry, or the views of the crown, as to be abo- liflied by the reforming commons in the i6th of Charles II ||j to * Coke's In ft. iv. C. 9. f From the Hebrew, "Sbetar. % Blackjtone, book iv. C. 19. )| See lord Clarendon's curious account of its abufe, Hift. Rebel, book i. H. the GUY FAUX'S CELLAR. 87 the great joy of the whole nation. The room is now called the Painted Chamber^ and is ufed as the place of conference between the lords and commons. It makes a very poor appearance, being hung with very antient French or Arras tapeflry, which, by the names worked over the figures, feems to relate to the 'Trojan war. The windows are of the antient fimple gothic. On the north outfide, beyond the windows, are many marks of receffes, groins, arms, on the remains of fome other room. NUMBERS of other great apartments are ftill preferved on each, fide of the entrance into Weftminfter-hall> in the law court of ex- , chequer, and adjacent ; and the fame in the money exchequer, and the dutchy of Lancafter : all thefe had been the parts of the antient palace. AT the foot of the ftaircafe is a round pillar, having on it the arms of John Stafford^ lord treafurer from 1422 to 1424. On the oppofite part are the arms of Ralph lord Botelar, of Sudley y trea- furer of the exchequer in 1433*. CLOSE to Mr. lVagborn\ coffee-houfe, in Old Palace Tard, is Guv FAUX'S the vault or cellar in which the confpirators of 1605 lodged the CELLAR. barrels of gunpowder, defigned at one blow to annihilate the three eftates of the realm in parlement aflfembled. To this day, the manner in which Providence directed the difcovery is un- known. The plot evidently was confined to a few perfons of del- perate zeal and wickednefs : they did not dare to truft fo dreadful a defign to the multitude. The fuccefs, they knew, muft be fol- lowed with a general infurreftion, and completion of their wifh.es. The opportunity would have been too irrefiftible, even to thofe * Mr, Carter, vol. i, tab. i, p. i. who, 88 HOOIE OF COM- MONS, ONCE ST. STEPHEN'* CHAPEL. V/EST FRONT. SuB-ClIAPEL. BUST OP CHARLES I. HOUSE OF COMMONS. who, in cool blood, would have rejected with horror a plan fo truly diabolical. THE commons of Great Britain hold their affemblies in this place, which was built by king Stephen, and dedicated to his namefake the protomartyr. It was beautifully rebuilt by Edward III. in 1347, and by him made a collegiate church, and a dean and twelve fecular priefts appointed *. Soon after its furrender to Ed-ivard VI. it was applied to its prefent ufe. The revenues at that period were not lefs than . 1085 a year. THE weft front, with its beautiful gothic window, is flili to be feen as we afcend the flairs to the court of requefts j it confifls of the (harp-pointed fpecies of gothic. Between it and the lobby of the houfe is a fmall veftibule of the fame fort of work, and of great elegance. At each end is a gothic door, and one in the middle, which is the paffage into the lobby. On the fouth fide of the outmoft wall of the chapel, appear the marks of fome great gethic windows, with abutments between ; and beneath, fome lefTer windows, once of ufe to light an under chapel. The infide of St. Stephen's is adapted to the prefent ufe, and plainly fitted up. THE under chapel had been a mod beautiful building : the far greater part is preferved, but frittered into various divifions, oc- cupied principally by the pafTage from Wejlminjler-ball to Palace Tard. IN the pafiage flood the famous bud of Charles I. by Ber- nini, made by him from a painting by Vandyck, done for the pur- 9 * Ne-ivcourt, i. 745. REMAINS OF ST. STEPHEN'S CHAPEL. pofe. Bernini is faid, by his fkill in phyfiognomy, to have pro- nounced from the likenefs, that there was fomething unfortunate in the countenance. THE far greater part of the under-chapel of St. Stephen, is pof- fefied by his grace the duke of Newcaftle, as auditor of the ex- chequer. One fide of the cloifter is entirely preferred, by being found convenient as a pafTage : the roof is gothic workmanfhip, fo elegant as not to be paralleled even by the beautiful workmanfhip in the chapel of Henry VII. Several parts are walled up for the meanefl ufes ; even a portion ferves, with its rich roof, for a coal- hole. That which has the good fortune to be allotted for the fteward's room, is very well kept. In one part of the roof is cut a neat, and, I believe, true reprefentation of the front of the cha- pel, bounded on each fide by a turret. Another of the fame kind, held by an angel, appears on the wall. ON one fide of the cloifter, projects into the area a fmall ora- tory, as richly ornamented as other parts of this building : above is a neat chauntry in the fame flyle. A gallery runs over each fide of the cloifter, with windows of light ftone tracery, looking into the court or area, which is deformed by a modern kitchen and its appendages. FROM one part of the gallery is a flairs, which leads to a very antient fquare tower of ftone, ftanding almoft clofe to the fide of Weftmmfter-kall. It probably was a belfry, to hold the bells that roufed the holy members of the chapel to prayer. IN what is called the grotto room, are fine remains of the roof and columns of this fub-chapel. The roof is fpread over with ribs of ftone, which reft on the numerous round pillars that compofe the fupport. The pillars are fhort j the capitals round N and BEAUTIFUL CLOISTER. SMALL ORATORT AND CHAUNTRY. ANTIENT SQUARE TOWER. SCULPTURES or ST. STEPHEN. WOOL- STAPLE. WOOI.-STAPLE, WESTMINSTER. BRIDGE. and fmall, with a neat foliage intervening. In a circle on the roof, is a martyrdom of St. Stephen, cut in ftone. In another circle, is a reprefentation of St. John the Evangeiift caft into a cauldron of boiling oil, by command of the emperor Domitian. NOT far from Wtfimnfifr-ballj in New Palace Yard, ftood the ftaple of wool, removed to Wejlmv>fter> and feveral other places in England, in 1353, by Ed-ward III. Thefe before had been kept in Flanders : but this wife meafure brought great wealth into the kingdom, and a confiderable addition to the royal revenue : for the parlement in thofe days granted to the king a certain fum on every fack exported. Henry VI. had fix wool-houfes here, which he granted to the dean and canons of St. Stephen's *. The concourfe of people, which this removal of the wool-ftaple to Weftminfter occafioned, caufed this royal village to grow into a confiderable town: fuch is the fuperiority of commerce. Part of the old gate- way to the ftaple was in being as late as the year 1741, when it was pulled down to make room for the abutment of the new bridge j-. THE firft flone of that noble ftructure was laid on January 24th, 1739, ty Henry earl of Pembroke ', a nobleman, of whom Mr. Watyok fays, none had a purer tafte in architecture. It was built after the defign of Monfieur Labelye, an ingenious architect, a native of France. The laft ftone was laid in November 1747, fo that it was eight years and nine months in completing, at the expence of . 389,500. Its length is 1223 feet; the number of arches fourteen, that in the center feventy-fix feet wide. In this bridge, grandeur and fimplicity are united. Fault has been, * Strype's Stmv, ii. book vi. p. 7*. t AnderJorftlHB. i. 184. found WESTMINSTERBRIDGF. 91 found with the great height of the baluftrades, which deny to the pafilrngers a clear view of the noble expanfe of water, and the fine objfc~h, efpecially to the eaft, which are fcattered with no fparing hand. I cannot agree with the happy thought of the French tra- veller *, who affures us, that the caufe was to prevent the fuicide to which the EngJiJh have fo ftrong a propenfity, particularly in the gloomy month of November -, for, had they been low, how few could refift the charming opportunity of fpringing over, whereas at prefent, the difficulty of climbing up thefe heights is fo great, that the poor hypochondriac has time to cool ; and, defifting from his glorious purpofe, think proper to give his days their full length, and end them like a good chriftian in his peaceful bed. THE tide has been known to rife at this bridge twenty-two TIDS. feet ; much to the inconveniency of the inhabitants of the lower parts of Weftminfter, for at fuch times their cellars are laid under water ; but its height depends much on the force and direction of the wind at the time of flood. BEYOND this palace, to the north, flood fome ftreets and lanes CANOW, o. by the water-fide, diftinguifhed in older times by the refidence CltAKN8L Roar of fome of our nobility. In Canon Row, fo named from being inhabited by the canons of the church, but corrupted into Chan- ml Row, was the (lately houfe built by the termagant Anne Stan- hcpe, wife to the protector Somerjet ; whofe difpute, about fo'me point of female precedency, is faid to have contributed in ibmc degree to her hufband's fall. She left this houfe to her fon narendon t near Aylejbury. It is difficult to fay whether that or the tomb is moft ruinous. The figure of the knight appears in armour reclining, with one hand fupport- ing his head, the other on his fword ; on his neck is a rich collar with the George pendant ; his hair is Ihort and curled ; his face bearded and whiikered. He lies beneath a rich canopy, fupported by fuits of armour like antient trophies. The epitaph tell us, The warres abroad with honnor he did pafle, In courtlie jufts his fovereigns knight he was. Sixe princes he did ferve. In a work which furnifhed fo few architectural fubjects for the engraver, I prefent the reader with the portrait of this venerable knight, taken from an original in pofieflion of the late Mrs. Sydney Lee, of Cbefter ; who with great politenefs obliged me with a re- duced copy. He was fprung from a Chejhire family, the fame which produced the Lees, earls of Uchfield. Sir Henry h?s by * Tour in Scot/and, 1772, vol. ii. f See Mr. Walpole't Miscellaneous Antiquities, N i . p. 41. O him OTHER AMCSE- MENTS OF ELIZABETH. ORIGIN OF TH PRESENT BANO^UETTING House. AMUSEMENTS OF QUEEN ELIZABETH. him a large dog, to which he once was indebted for his life. By accident it was left one night in his bed-chamber, unknown to a faithlefs fervant, who entered the room with an intent to rob and murder his matter, but was feized on his entrance by the affection- ate animal. THE other print is one of Sir Henry's affbciates in the gallant fociety, Robert earl of Leicefter, clad for the tilt-yard* in complete armour *. Rowland Whitt has left us a curious account of the amufe- ments of this reign, and with what fpirit her majefty purfued her pleafures as late as her fixty-feventh year. " Her majefty fays (he " is very well. This day (he appoints a Frenchman to doe feates " upon a rope in the conduit court. To-morrow fhe hath com- " manded the beares, j.he bull, and the ape to be bayted in the tilt- t yard. Upon Wednefday fhe will have folemne dawncing f ." IN the time of 'James I. Whitehall was in a moft ruinous ftate. He determined to rebuild it in a very princely manner, and wor- thy of the refidence of the monarchs of the Britijh empire. He began with pulling down the banquetting rooms built by Eliza- beth. That which bears the name at prefent was begun in 1619, from a defign of Inigo Jones, in his pureft manner ; and executed by Nicholas Stone, mafler-mafon and architect: to the king : it was finifhed in two years, and coft feventeen thoufand pounds; but was only a fmall part of a vaft plan, left unexecuted by reafon of * The knights of this gallant band were drawn at the time in their proper ar- mour. The book was in pofleffion of the late dutchefs dowager of Portland, who, with her ufual condefcenfion and friendfhip, permitted me to have any copies I chofe. f SjJuy's State Papers, i. 194. 4 the PALACE OF WHITEHALL. the unhappy times which fucceeded. The note * will ftiew the fmall pay of this great architect. THE cieling of this noble room cannot be fufficiently admired. It was painted by Rubens, who had three thoufand pounds for his work. The fubjedb is the apotbeofs of James I ; it forms nine compartments ; one of the middle, reprefents our pacific monarch on his earthly throne, turning with horror from Mars, and other of the difcordant deities, and as if it were giving himfelf up to the amiable goddefs he always cultivated, to her attendants, Commerce and all the fine arts. This fine performance is painted on can- vafs, and is in fine prefervation ; but, a few years ago, underwent a repair by Mr. Cipriani, who, as I am told, had two thoufand pounds for his trouble. Near the entrance is a butt of the royal founder. LITTLE did James think that he was erecting a pile from which his fon was to ftep from the throne to the fcaffold. He had been brought, in the morning of his death, from St. James's acrofs the park, and from thence to Whitehall, where, afcending the great ftaircafe, he pafled through the long gallery to his bed- chamber, the place allotted to him to pafs the little fpace before he received the fatal blow. It is one of the leffer rooms marked with the letter A, in the old plan of Whitehall. He was from thence conducted along the galleries and the banquetting-houle, through the wall, in which a paffage was broken f, to his laft * To Inigo Jones, furveyor of the works done about the king's houfes, 8 /. 4 tf. per diem, and . 46 per ami. for houfe-rent, a clerk, and other incidental ex- pences. Mr. Walpolt. f Herbert'* Memoirs, 135. Warwick's Memoirs, 334. O 2 earthly CABINET OF CHARLES I. CABINET OF CHARLES I. hly ftage. This pafiage flill remains, at the north end of the room, and is at prefent the door to a fmall additional building of late date. At the time of the king's death, contiguous to the banquetting-houfe was a large building with a long roof, and a fmall cupola rifing out of the middle *. The late dutchefs of Portland did me the honor of fhewing to me a rich pearl fur- mounted with a crown, which was taken out of the ear of the murdered monarch, after his head was ftruck offf. THE banquetting-houfe has been, many years paft, converted into a chapel. George I. appointed a falary of .30 a year to be paid to certain felect preachers, to preach here every Sunday. THE collection of paintings formed by this mod accomplifhed prince, was efleemed the firft in Europe. They were kept in a room called the Cabinet-room, in this palace ; which was built by order of prince Henry , from a defign of Inigo Jones. I have a view of it, and fome of the antient parts of Whitehall which flood next to St. Jatner's park. This building is diflinguifhed by the Venetian window. It flood on the fite of the duke of Tork's houfe. Vanderdort was appointed keeper, with a falary of j. 50 a year. On the death of Henry it was confirmed to him by Charles, at the reduced falary of forty. The view is taken from a drawing by Levities, an artifl who had worked under Rembrandt. This I owe to the liberality of Doctor Combes. THE pictures were fold by order of the ruling powers. As a proof of his majefly's judgment in collecting, feveral were fold * Reprefcnted in one of Hoilar's prints. t This is figured in one of the private plates er.graven at the expence of her grace. 6 for SPLENDOR OF NELL GWYNNE. 101 PLAN OF WHITEHALL. for a thoufand pounds apiece j a price fcldom known in thefe days, when money bears fo far lefs a value. IN 1680 a complete plan of this great palace was taken by John Fifljer, and engraven by Vertue, in 1747. It appears that it extended along the river, and in front along the prefent Parlement and Whitehall ftreet, as far as Scotland Yard \ and on the other fide of thofe ftreets to the turning into Spring Garden, beyond the Admiralty, looking into St. James's Park. The merry king, his queen, the royal brother, prince Rupert, the duke of Monmouth, and all the great officers, and all the courtly train, had their lodg- ings within thefe walls ; and all the royal family had their diffe- rent offices,, fuch as kitchens, cellars, pantries, fpiceries, cyder- houfe, bake-houfe, wood-yards and coal-yards, and flaughter- houfe. We fee among the fair attendants of queen Catherine, many names which make a great figure in Grammont, and other chronicles of the time : fuch as the countefs of Caftlemaine, Mrs. Kirk, and Mrs. Killegrew. As to Nell Gwynne, not having the NELL GWTX.NE. honor to be on the good queen's eftablifhment, fhe was obliged to keep her diftance, at her houfe in what was then called Pall- mall. It 'is the firft good one on the left hand of St. James's Square, as we enter from Pali-mail. The back room on the ground floor was (within memory) entirely of looking-glafs ; as was faid to have been the cieling. Over the chimney was her picture ; and that of her filler was in a third room. At the period I mention, this houfe was the property of 'Thomas Brand, efq; of the Hoo, in Hertford/hire. THE other royal favorites had the fanftion of offices, fuch as maids of honor and the like, which, in all ages, like charity, were fure to cover a multitude of fins. I MUST I02 EARL OF FIFE'S HOUSE. I MUST not omit, that from the palace into the Thames were two flairs, one public, the other the privy flairs for the ufe of majefty alone j the firft is flill in ufe, the other is made up in the old wall adjacent to the earl of Fife's, but the arch of the portal remains entire. Henry, and his daughter Elizabeth, made all their parties by water or on horfeback ; or now and then the laft went mounted on a litter, carried on men's fhoulders. Coaches had been introduced into England by Henry Fitzalan earl of Arnndel, one of her admirers : but the fpirited princefs feems to have dif- dained the ufe. She rode in a drefs of form and magnificence equal to what fhe appeared in at the drawing-room ; but never put on breeches or boots, like the late Czarina \ nor yet the equi- vocal drefs of the ladies of the prefent age. No one is unacquainted with the noble and commodious im- provements which fucceeded. The fpace occupied by the former palace, moft part of Privy Garden, is covered with houfes of nobi- lity or gentry, commanding moft beautiful views of the river. Among the firft (on the fite of the fmall-beer cellar, of which a view is preferved in N 4. of Hollar's prints of Whitehall) is the EARL or FIFE'S, houfe of the earl of Fife. From his judicious embankment, is a matchlefs view of its kind, of the two bridges with the magnifi- cent expanfe of water, Somerfet-houfe, St. Paul's, and multitudes of other objects lefs magnificent, but which ferve to complete the beautiful fcene. IN the great room is fbme very fine Go&elins tapeftry. I never can fufficiently admire the expreflion of paflions, in two of the fubje&s : the fine hiftory of Jofeph difclofing himfelf to his bre- thren, and that of Sufanna accufed by the two elders. Here are alfo great numbers of fine paintings by foreign mafters j but, as I confine C/J p O p ^ C HOliSE-GUARDS, ADMIRALTY-OFFICE. 103 confine myfelf to thofe which relate to our own country, I (hall only mention a fmall three-quarters of Mary Stuart, with her- child, an infant, Handing on a table before her. This beautiful performance is on white marble. A HEAD of Charles I. when prince of Wales, done in Spain^ when he was there in 1625, on his romantic expedition to court the Infanta. It is fuppofed to have been the work of Velafco. A PORTRAIT of William earl of Pembroke, lord high chamber- lain in the beginning of the reign of Charles 1; a fmall full length in black, with his white rod in one hand, his hat in the other, ftanding'iri- a roonvlooking into a garden. Such is the merit of this piece, that, notwithftanding it is fuppofed to have been the performance of Jamefon, the Scotch Vandyck ; yet it has been often attributed to that great Flemi/h painter*. IN the vacant part of 'Privy Garden is ftill to be feen a noble ftatue in brafs of our abdicated monarch, executed by Grinfing Gibbons, the year before he deferred his throne. THE horfe-guards had their ftables in the place they occupy at this time : but the prefent elegant building was creeled in the reign of his late fnajefty, after a defign, I think, by Fardy. I have given a print f of the Horfe-guards as they were in the time of Charles II. In it is the merry monarch and his dogs ; and in- the back view, the banquetting-houfe, one of the gates, the pre- fent treafury in its antient ftate, and the top of the cockpit. THE Admiralty-office flood originally in Duke-Jlreet Weftmin* Jter\ but in the reign of king William was removed to the prefent Mr. Walpole. f From a painting in pofloffion of the earl of Hardwick. fpot, 104 PALACE KINGS OF SCOTLAND. CAEtO-CftOflf. PALACE FOR KINGS OF SCOTLAND. fpor, to the houfe then called Walling ford-boufe, I believe from its having been inhabited .by the Knolfys's, vifcounts Wallingford. From the roof, the pious UJber, archbifliop of Armagh, then liv- ing here with the countefs of Peter -borough ', was prevaled on to take the laft fight of his beloved mafter Charles I. when brought on the fcaffold before Whitehall. He funk at the horror of the fight, and was carried in a fwoon to his apartment. THE prefent Admiralty-office was rebuilt in the late reign : it is a clumfy pile, but properly veiled from the ftreet by Mr. Adams's handfome fkreen * A LITTLE farther to the north ftood, in the place now occu- pied by Scotland-yard, a magnificent palace built for the reception of the Scottijb monarchs, whenever they vifited this capital. It was originally given by king Edgar to king Ken, for the humiliating purpofe of his making to this place an annual journey, for the purpofe of .doing homage for the kingdom of Scotland, and in after times for Cumberland and Huntingdon, and other fiefs of the crown. Here Margaret, widow of James V. of Scotland, and filter to Henry VIII. refided for a confiderable time after the death of her hufband : and was entertained with great magnifi- cence by her royal brother, as foon as he was reconciled to her fecond marriage with the earl of Angus. A LITTLE above ftood one of the celebrated memorials of the affection of Edward 1. for his beloved Elianor, being the crofs erected on the laft fpot on which the body refted in the way to the abby, the place of fcpulture. This and all the others were built after the defigns of Cavalini. This was deftroyed by the religious * Mr. fury C H A R I N G-C ROSS. 105 1. fury of the reformers. From a drawing communicated to me by Doctor Combes, it appears to have been of an octagonal form, and in an upper ftage ornamented with eight figures : but the gotbic parts far from being rich. THE crofs was in the next century replaced by a moft beauti- FINE STATUE OP ful and animated equeftrian ftatue in brafs, of Charles I. caft in 1633, by Le Scsur. It was not erected till the year 1678, when the parlement had ordered it to be fold and broke to pieces : but John River, the brazier who purchafed it, having more tafte or more loyalty than his mafters, buried it unmutilated, and fhewed to them fome broken pieces of brafs in token of his obedience. M. d* Arcbenbolz giyes a diverting anecdote of this brazier : that he caft a vaft number of handles of knives and forks in brafs, which he fold as made of the broken ftatue. They were bought with great eagernefs ; by the loyalifts, from affection to their mo- narch j by the rebels, as a mark of triumph over the murdered fovereign * ON the fite of part of Northumberland-houfe y flood the chapel ST. MARY ROUK- of St. Mary Rounceval, a cell to the priory of Rouncevaux, in Navarre. It was founded by William Marjhal earl of Pembroke, in the time of Henry III. It was fuppreffed by Henry V. among the alien priories, but rebuilt by Edward IV. who fixed a frater- nity in it f. In the reign of Edward VI. a grant was made of the fite to Sir 'Thomas Cawarden $. NOT far from hence, oppofite to Charing-CroJs, was an hermi- * See M. drchenhoiz's Tableau Angltttrrt> i. 163, j- Neivcourtf i. 693. J Tanner, P tage, CEVAL. ,06 THE M E W S. tage, with a chapel dedicated to St. Catfarine*. This, in 1262, belonged to the fee of Llandaff; for I find in that year that Wil- Ham dt Radnor, then bifhop, had leave from the king to lodge in the cloifter of his hermitage at Charing, whenever he came to London f . ON the north fide of Charing-Crofs (land the royal flables, called, from the original ufe of the buildings on their fite, the Mews j having been ufed for keeping the king's falcons, at left from the time of Richard II. In that reign the accomplifhed Sir Simon Burley, knight of the garter, was keeper of the king's falcons at the Meufe, near Charing-Crofs. This office was by Charles II. granted to his fon by Nell Gwyn, Charles duke of St. Albans, and the heirs male of his body. In the reign of Henry VIII. the king's nodes were kept here. In 1534 an accident by fire deftroyed the building, with a great quantity of hay, and feve- ral great horfes. It was rebuilt in the reigns of Edward VI. and queen Mary. In the year 1732 the prefent handfome edifice arofe. ST. JAMES'S ST. JAMES'S palace was originally a hofpital, founded and de- dicated to St. James, by fbme pious citizens, before the Conqueft, for fourteen leprous females : and eight brethren were added afterwards, to perform divine fervice. On the quarrel between the great earl of Warwick and lord Cromlael, about the caufe of the firft battle of St. Albans \ lord Cromivel y fearing the rage of that violent peer, was at his own defire lodged here, by way of fecurity, by John Talbot earl of Shrewjbury y at that time lord treafurer of England \. It was furrendered to Henry VIII. in * Sttnvt's Survaie, 839. f Willy's Lwdajf, 51. J Fena'i Letters, i. no. ST. JAMES'S PALACE. 1531, who founded on its fite the prefent palace> which Stowe calls a goodly manor. His majefty alfo inclofed the park, which was fubfervient to the amufement of this and the palace of White- hall. Charks II. was particularly fond of itj planted the avenues, made the canal, and the aviary, adjacent to the Bird-cage walk^ which took its name from the cages which were hung in the trees* Charles, fays Gibber, was often feen here, amidft crowds of fpecta- tors, feeding his ducks, and playing with his dogs *, and paffing his idle moments in affability even to the meaneft of his fubjects, which made him to be adored by the common people ; fo fafci- nating in the great are the habits of condefcenfion ! DUCK. ISLAND was erected into a government, and had a falary annexed to the office, in favor of M. St. Evremond, who was the firft and perhaps the laft governor f : and the ifland itfelf is loft in the late improvements. IT does not appear that the palace was inhabited by any of our monarchs till after the fire at Whitehall. James I. prefented it to his accomplifhed fon Henry, who refided here till his lamented death in 1612. Charles I. was brought here from Wiiidfor^ on January i pth \, by the power of the army, which had determined on his death ; his apartment was haftily furnifhed by his fervant Mr. Kinnerfley, of the wardrobe |j. Some of the eleven days which he was permitted to live, were fpent in Weftminfter-hall, and of the nights in the houfe of Sir Robert Cotton, adjacent to his place of trial. On the 27 th he was carried back to St. James's, where he pafled his three laft days in exemplary piety. On the joth he * Apology for the life of Colley Gibber, 26. f S. Pegge, efq. J IVbitelock. || Htrbtrfs Memoirs, 106. P 2 was ,of S T. J A M E S ' S P A L A C E. was brought to the place of execution -, and walked, unmoved at every infult, with a firm and quick pace, fupported by the moft lively fentiments of religion. His fon, the bigoted James, fent to the prince of Orange, when he had approached in force near to the capital, a moft necefiitated invitation to take his lodgings at this palace. The prince ac- cepted it : but at the fame time hinted to the frightened prince that he muft leave Whitehall. It was cuftomary to mount guard at both the palaces. The old hero lord Craven was on duty at the time when the Dutch guards were marching through the park to relieve, by order of their mafter. From a point of honor he had determined not to quit his ftation, and was preparing to maintain his poft ; but, receiving the command of his fovereign, he reluctantly withdrew his party and marched away with fullen dignity *. DURING the reign of king William > St. James's was fitted up for the refidence of 'the princefs Anne (afterwards queen) and her fpoufe prince George of Denmark. From that time to the prefent it has been regularly the court of our monarchs, JAMES, the fon of James II. who fo long made pretenfions to the Britt/h throne, was born in the room now called the old bed- chamber j at prefent the anti- chamber to the levee room. The bed ftood clofe to the door of a back-flairs, which defcended to an inner court. It certainly was very convenient to carry on any fecret defign j and might favor the filly warming-pan ftory, was not the bed furrounded by twenty of the privy-council, four other men of rank, twenty ladies, befides pages and other atten- * Dalrymfle's Memoirs. dants. PORTRAITS. I09 dants. James, with imprudent pride, neglected to difprove the tale \ it was adopted by party, and firmly believed by its zealots. But, as James proved falfe to his high truft, and his fon (hewed every fymptom of following his example, there was certainly no fuch pretence wanting for excluding a family inimical to the in- terefts of the GREAT WHOLE. UNCREDITABLE as the outfide of St. James's palace may look, it is faid to be the moft commodious for regal parade of any in Europe. Every one knows that the furniture of this palace is un- becoming the place. Yet in a ramble I once made through the PORTRAIT* apartments, I faw feveral portraits of perfonages remarkable in their day. Among others (in one of the rooms behind the levee rooms) is a fmall full-length of Henry prince of V/ales, fon of James I. He is drefled in green, ftanding over a dead ftag, and fheathing a fword. A youth, the accomplifhed lord Harrington, of Exton, is kneeling before him : each of them have hunting horns, and behind the prince is a horfe, and on the bough of a tree are the arms of England, and behind the young lord, another coat of arms, perhaps his own. Another fine fmall piece, of Arthur, elder brother to Henry VIII. painted very young, with a bonnet on his head. Henry Hands by him, and his fitter Margaret, of in- fant ages. This picture is by Maluje y who vifited England in the reign of their father. HENRY VII. and VIII. full-lengths, and each of them with a queen before an altar. The fortunate Jane Seymour (who died in her bed) is the confort of the fon, here reprefented. This is a copy from Hollein y in fmall, by Van Lemput> ;n 1667, taken by order of Charles II. The original was painted on the wall in the privy chamber of Whitehall) and deilroyed in the fire of 1697. Two PORTRAITS. Two half-lengths, by Lely, of the dutchefs of York, and her fitter. A CHILD in the robes of the garter : perhaps the youngeft knight known. He was the fecond fon of James II. while duke of Tork, by Anne Hyde his dutchefs. On December jd, 1666, he \vas elected knight of the garter," at the age of three years and five months. The fovereign put the George round his neck; and prince Rupert, the garter round his little leg. Death, in the fol- lowing year, prevented his inftallation*. THE diminutive manhood of the dwarf Geoffiy Hudfon, is to be feen in another picture. He appears lefs by being placed walk- ing under fome very tall trees. IN the lords old waiting-room is Henry Darnley, in black, tall and gt-nteel. His hand is retting on his brother Charles Stuart, earl of Lenox, drefled in a black gown. IN another room is Charles II. of Spain, at the age of four, in black, with a fceptre in his hand, ftrutting and playing the mo- narch. He was inaugurated in 1665. His reign was unhappy. Spain at no period was in fo low, fo diftrefsful a condition. His dominions were parcelled out in his life-time : but he difappointed the allies, and, after fome ftruggle, the defignation of his will in favor of the houfe of Bourbon took place. HERE is to be feen the famous picture by Mabufe, of Adam and Eve. Mr. Evelyn juftly remarks the abfurdity of painting them with navels, and a fountain with rich imagery amidft the beauteous wilds of paradife. Raphael, and Michael Angelo, made S and/or d, 677. the MARYBOROUGH- HOUSE. the fame miftake of the navel, on which the learned Sir Thomas Brown* waftes a long page and a half to difprove the pof- fibility. IN the queen's library (built by queen Caroline, and ornamented QUEER'S. by Kent) now a lumber-room, I faw a beautiful view from LIBRARY, Greene ich park, with Charles I. his queen, and a number of cour- tiers, walking. And two others, of the fame prince and his queen dining in public. And another of the elector palatine and his fpoufe at public table; with a carver, looking mod ridiculous, a monkey having in that moment reared from the board and ftized on his beard. Poffibly this feafl was at Guildhall, where he was moft nobly entertained by the hofpitable city, in 1612, when he made the match with the daughter of our monarch, which ended fo unhappily for both parties. To the eaft of St. James's palace, in the reign of queen Anne* MARLBOROUCK was built Marlborough-houje, at the expence of the public. It appears by one of Kip's views of St. James's, publifhed before the exiftence of this houfe, that it was built in part of the royal gardens, granted for that purpofe by her majefty. The prefent duke added an upper ftory, and improved the ground floor, which originally wanted the great room. This national compliment coft not lefs than forty thoufand pounds. IN Pall-mall the duke Scbomberg had his houfe. It was in my PALL-MA-LL. time poffeflfed by Aftley the painter, who divided it into three, and moft whimfically fitted up the center for his own ufe. To take a review of the fpace between this palace and Charing- x, as was about the year 1560, it will appear a tract of Pulgar Errors^ p. fields 112 HAYMARKET. HEDGE-LANE. LEICESTER- HOUSE. NEIGHBORHOOD OF CHARING-CROSS. fields ; there were no houfes, excepting three or four on the eafl fide of the prefent Pall-mall : and a little farther, on the oppofite fide, a fmall church, the name of which I cannot difcover. BY the year 157^ Cockjpur-ftreet filled up the fpace between thofe houfes and Charing-Crofs. Pall mall was alfo laid out as a walk, or a place for the exercife of the Mall, a game long fince difufed. The north fide was alfo planted with a row of trees. On the other fide was the wall of St. James's park. Cbarles II. removed it to its preftnt place, planted the park, and made all thofe improvements, which we now fee. It was Le Notre, the famous French gardener, the director of tafte under Louis XIV. who ordered the difpofition of the trees. Of late, the French have endeavoured to borrow tafte from us. In the days of Charles, the Haymarket, and Hedge-lane, had names; but they were literally lanes, bounded by hedges j and all beyond, to the north, eaft, and weft, was entirely country. In the fine plan of London, publiflied by Faithorn, in 1658, no traces of houfes are to be met with in the former, any more than a fingle one, named the Gaming- houfe y at the end next to Piccadilly. Windmill -fir eet confided of disjoined houfes ; and a windmill, ftanding in a field on the weft fide, proves from what its name was derived. All the fpace occupied by the ftreets radiating from the Seven Dials, was at that period open ground. LciceJler-Jields was alfo unbuilt j but the houfe of that name is found in the fame plan, and on the fite of the prefent. It was founded by one of the Sydnies earls of Leicefter. It was for a fhort time the refidence of Elizabeth, daughter of James I. the titular queen of Bohemia, who, on February i3th, 1661, here ended LEICESTER-HOU SE. GERARD-HOUSE. ended her unfortunate life *. It has been tenanted for a great number of years. It was fuccefllvely the pouting-place of princes. The late king, when prince of Wales, after he had quarrelled with his father, lived here feveral years. His fon Frederick followed his example, fucceeded him in his houfe, and in it finifhed his days. No one is ignorant of the magnificent and inftructive mufeum exhibited in this houfe by the late Sir ASHTON LEVER. It was the moft aftonifhing collection of the fubject of natural hiftory ever collected, in fo fhort a fpace, by any individual. To the difgrace of our kingdom, after the firft burft of wonder was over, it became neglected : and when it was offered to the public, by the chance of a guinea lottery, only eight thou- fand, out of thirty fix thoufand, tickets were fold. Finally, the capricious goddefs frowned on the fpirited poffeflbr of fuch a number of tickets, and transferred the treafure to the poffeflbr of only two, Mr. Parkinfon ; who, by his fpirited attention to, and elegant difpofition of the Mufeum, well merited the favor. BEHIND Leicefter-houfe flood, in 1658, the Military-yard, founded by Henry prince of Wales, the fpirited fon of our peace- ful James. M. Foubert afterwards kept here his academy for rid- ing and other gentleman- like exercifes, in .the reign of Charles II. It is to this day a noted riding- fchool. .A LITTLE beyond flood Gerard-houfe, the habitation of the gallant Gerard earl of Macdesfeld-\. It is loft in the flreet of the fame name. The profligate lord Mohun lived in this ftreet, and uintin. He merited to be ftripped of the honorable drefs : he never appeared in the field j and carried on his wars like an afiaffin. I WILL clofe this very imperfect lift, with the famous countefs of Dejmond ; a popular fubject with the painters: and refer the reader to the account I have given of her in my vifits to that worthy peer the late earl of Kinnoul, in both my tours in Scotland. THE collection of pictures by the great Italian mafters, is by far the fineft private collection now in England. THE houfe of that monfter of treachery, that profligate mini- fter the earl of Sunderland, who, by his deftructive advice, pre,me- ditatedly brought ruin on his unfufpecting mafter James II. flood on or near the fite of the prefent Melbourne-houfe. At the very time that he fold him to the prince of Orange, he encouraged his majefty in every ftep which was certain of involving him and his family in utter ruin. PICCADILLY is continued near half a mile farther to the weft ft the north fide only confirts of houfes, moft of them mean build- ings 3 but it finifhes handfomely with the magnificent new houfe * Religio Medici, part ii. feft. 9. f All the weft part was originally called Pertugal-fre^ i*o ST. GEORGE'S HOSPITAL. but the benevolence of the governors, or increafe of accidents, caufed an increafe of expence, which threatened moft ferious con- fequences, till the houfe was happily relieved by the bounty re- ceived from the third of the profits arifing from the mufical en- tertainments of the abby. This hofpital has difcharged from it, lince it was opened, on the firft of the year 1733, not fewer than a hundred and fixty-four thoufand feven hundred and forty -fix patients. HYDE-PARK was in the late century, and the early part of the prefent, celebrated, by all our dramatical poets, for its large fpace TE RIK. railed off in form of a circle, round which the Beau-monde drove in their carriages, and in their rotation j exchanging as they paffed fmiles and nods, compliments, or fmart repartees. OPPOSITE FORTIFICATIONS IN THE CIVIL WAR. OPPOSITE to this hofpital at Hyde-park Corner, flood a large fort with four baftions, which formed one of the many flung up in the year 1642. It is incredible with what fpeed the citizens flung a rampart of earth all round the city and fuburbs of London, and again round Southwark and Lambeth, ftrengthened with bat- teries and redoubts at proper intervals. This was occafioned by an alarm of an attack from the royal army. Men, women, and children afiifted by thoufands. The active part which the fair fex took in the work is admirably defcribed by the inimitable author of Hudibras ; who, fays he, March'd rank and file with drum and enfign, T* entrench the city for defence 'in : Rais'd rampiers with their own foft hands, To put the enemy to ftands ; From ladies down to oyfter-wenches, Labour'd like pioneers in trenches, Fal'n to their pick-axes and tools, And help'd the men to dig like moles. Have not the handmaids of the city Chos'n of their members a committee, For raifing of a common purfe, Out of their wages to raife horfe ? And do they not as Triers fit, To judge what officers are fit? THERE were a few more great houfes, not remote from <$"/, James's palace, which merit mention. Bcrk/hire-houfe, belonging to the Howards, earls of Berk/hire, flood very near the royal refi- dence. It was afterwards purchafed, and prefented by Charles II. to that beautiful fury Barbara dutchefs of Cleveland, and its It BERKSHIRE, OR CLEVELAND- HOUSE. honorable name changed into that of her diflionored title. R was TART-HALL. TART-HALL, ARLINCTON- HOVSB. was then of great extent. She fold part, which was built into various houfes. She built a large one for herfelf, which flill re- mains, and may be diflinguifhed by the row of round windows in the upper ftory. TART-HALL flood near the prefent Buckingham-gate: it was- built in 1638, by Nicholas Stone, for Alathea countefs of Arundel, wife to Thomas earl of Arundel. After the death of the countefs it became the property of her fecond fon, the unfortunate Wil- liam lord Stafford, a moft gentle and amiable character, who fell an innocent victim to the deteftable violence of party, and the perjured fuborned evidence of the ever infamous Oates, Dugdale, and Tuberville. Good men, who had no fhare in that part, hur- ried away by intemperate pafiion, were at the period difgraced by their rage againft this inoffenfive peer. Even the virtuous lord Rujfel committed in this caufe the fingle opprobrium of his life : when the unhappy lord was condemned, RUSSEL could wifh to deny the king the amiable prerogative of taking away the cruel, the difgraceful part of the penalty. Within three years, this ex- cellent man himlelf tafted the bitter cupj but cleared, by royal indulgence, from the aggravating dregs, with which he wifhed to agonize the dying moments of the devoted Stafford. HERE were kept the poor remains of the Arundelian collection.. They were buried during the madnefs of the popifh plot. The mob would have miftaken the ftatues for popifh faints. They were fold in the year 1720; and the houfe foon after was pulled down. Mr. Watyole, who faw the houfe at the time of the fecond fale, informed me that it was very large, and had a very venera- ble ap pearance* HENRY BENNET earl of Arlington, one of the famous Cabal,, 6 had BUCKINGHAM-HOUSE. had a houfe near the fite of the prefent Buckingham-houfe, which went by his name. It was afterwards purchafed by John Sheffield duke of Buckingham, who, after obtaining an additional grant of land from the crown, rebuilt it, in a magnificent manner, in 1703. He defcribes it moft minutely, as well as his manner of living there, in a letter to the duke of Shrewjbury * He has omitted his conftant vifits to the noted gaming-houfe at Marybone, the place of afiemblage of all the infamous (harpers of the time. His grace always gave them a dinner at the conclufion of the feafon, and his parting toaft was, May as many of us as remain unhanged nextjpring, meet here again. I remember the facetious Quin tell- ing this ftory at Bath y within the hearing of the late lord Chefter- Jieldj when his lordfhip was furrounded by a crowd of worthies of the fame flamp with the above. Lady Mary Wortley alludes to the amufement in this time } Some dukes at Marybone bowl time away* Antiently there was a park at Marybone .' for I find that in queen Elizabeth's time, the Ruffian ambafladors were entertained with the amufement of hunting within its pale. The duke died in 1720. His dutchefs, daughter to James II. by Catherine Sedley> lived here till her death. She was fucceeded by the duke's natu- ral fon, Charles Herbert Sheffield^ on whom his grace had entailed it after the death of the young duke, who died a minor. It was purchafed from Sir Charles by his prefent majefty ; is the retreat of our good king and queen ; and dignified with the title of the QUEEN'S HOUSE. THE virtuous chancellor the earl of Clarendon^ had a houfe * London and its environs* R * BUCKINGHAM- HOUSE, CLARENDON* HOUSE. facing CLARENDON-HOUSE. EXPLOITS OF facing the upper end of St. James* s-fireet, on the fite of the pre- fent Graf ton-fir eet. It was built by himfelf, with the ftones in- tended for the rebuilding of St. Paul's. He purchafed the ma- terials j but a nation foured with an unfucctfsful war, with fire, and with ptftilence, imputed every thing as a crime to this great and envied character : his enemies called \tDunkirk-houJe, calum- niating him with having built it with the money arifing from the fale of that town, which had juft before been given up to the French, for a large fum, by his mafter. Clarendon was fo fenfible of his vanity, of his imprudence, in building fo large a houfe, and of the envy it drew upon him, that he thinks fit to apologize for that aft of his ; which he declares fo far exceeded the propofed expence, as to add greatly to the embarraffment of his affairs *. It coft fifty thoufand pounds, and three hundred men were em- ployed in the building. It was purchafed from his lordfhip by George Monk duke of Albemarle, and afterwards by another noble- man, inferior indeed in abilities, but not inferior in virtues. In ATTACK ON THE 1670, James duke of Ormond, in his way to Clarendon-houfe, where BLOO'D. n * s g race at tnat tuTie lived, was dragged out of his coach by the infamous Blood, and his aflbciates, who intended tQ hang his grace at 'Tyburn, in revenge for juftice done, under his adminiftration in. Ireland, on fome of their companions. This refinement in revenge faved the duke's life : he had leifure to difengage himfelf from the villain on horfeback, to whom he was tied ; by which time he was difcovered by his affrighted domeftics, and refcued from death. Blood was foon after taken in the attempt to fteal the Continuation of tr.e life of the earl of Clartndm, o&avo, vol. iii. p. 971. The houfe is engraven by Dunftdl. crown.. MURDER OK MR. THYNNE. FLOOD, AND COUNT KONINGSMARK. crown. The court had ufe for fo complete a villain, and funk fo low as to apply to his grace for pardon for the offence againft him j the duke granted it with a generous indignation. Blood had a penfion of five hundred a year, and was conflantly feen in the prefence- chamber : as is fuppofed, to {hew to the great un- complying men of the time, what a ready inftrument the miniftry had to revenge any attempt that might be made againft them in the caufe of liberty. I WOULD not make this little work a Tyburn chronicle ; yet I cannot omit the horrible aflafiination, in 168 1, of Thomas Thynne, efq ; of Longleat, by the inftigation of count Koningfmark, in re- venge for his having married lady Elizabeth Ogle, the rich heirefs, on whom the count had a defign. The three afiafiins were exe- cuted in Pall-mall on the bloody fpot : but the court, in love with profligacy, contrived to fave the principal *. The gallant William earl of Devon/hire would have avenged the death of his friend : the count accepted the challenge ; but his confcience pre- vented him from meeting the earl. He afterwards met with a fate fuited to his actions: he attempted an intrigue, in 1686, in Germany, with, a lady of diftinguifhed rank: he was one night waylayed, by order of the jealous hufband ; was literally cut to pieces, and his remains flung into a privy, which was inftantly bricked up. JERMYN, and Sf. Albans ftreets took their. names from the gal- JERM VN-HOUSI font Henry Jermyn earl of St. Alban's, who had a houfe at the head of the laft. He was fuppofed to have been privately mar- ried to the queen dowager, Henrietta Maria. By this time mif- fortunes had fubdued that fpirit which had contributed to preci- Rereftfs Memoirs, 142. pitatc 126 ST. JAMES'S CHURCH, AND PARISH. ST. JAMES'S CHURCH. FIN i FONT BY GIBBONS. THE STRAND ; ITS ANTIENT 8TATB. pitate her firft hufband into the ruin of his houfe. She was awed by her fubjeft-fpoufe* : her fear of him was long obferved before the nearnefs of the connection was difcovered. ON the ground of this gay peer,-* was built the prefent church of St. James, founded in the latter part of the reign of Charles II. and confecrated in the firft of James II. and named in honor of both faint and monarch. London was fo vaftly increafed about this period, that a new church in this place was neceffary. Ac- cordingly, as much was taken from the parifh of St. Martin in the Fields, as to form another. It is a rectory, to which, at firft, the bifhop of London had a right of two turns in the prefentation. Lord Jermyn, nephew to the earl, had the third : but the laft was fully refigned to the bifhop. The moft remarkable thing in the church is the fine font of white marble, the work of Grinlin Gib- bons. It is fupported by the tree of life ; the ferpent is offering the fruit to our firft parents, who ftand beneath : on one fide of the font is engraven the Baptift baptizing our Saviour : on ano- ther, St. Philip baptizing the eunuch : and on the third, Noah's ark, with the dove bringing the olive-branch, the type of peace to mankind f. THE chance], above the altar, is enriched with fome beautiful foliage in wood, by the fame great artift. THE further progrefs of this part of the town I (hall defer mentioning till I have reached the moft eaftern part of Wejlmin- fter. I fhall refume my account at the opening of the Strand into Charing- Crofs, by obferving, that in the year I353> that fine * Rertjy, 4. t See this font engraven by Vert*e> tab, iii. of the Vetuji* Monumenta* ftreet THE STRAND MADE A STREET. 127 ftreet the Strand was an open highway, with here and there a great man's houfe, with gardens to the water-fide. In that year it was fo ruinous, that Edward III. by an ordinance directed a tax to be raifed upon wool, leather, wine, and all goods carried to the ftaple at Weftminfter, from Temple- bar to Weftmmfter-abbey> for .the repair of the road j and that all owners of houfes adjacent to the highway fhould repair as much as lay before their doors. Mention is alfo made of a bridge to be erected near the royal pa- lace at Weftminfter, for the conveniency of the faid ftaple * : but the laft probably meant no more than a ftairs for the landing of the goods, which I find fometimes went by the name of a bridge. THERE are feveral inftances of grants for building, in this ex- tenfive road, in very early times. Edward I. granted to Walter le Barbur, a void fpace in the high-ftreet, in the parifli of St. Clement Danes and St. Mary Strand : and Robert le Spencer had from the fame prince another grant^ THERE was no continued ftreet here till about the year 1533 : THE STREET before that, it entirely cut off Weftminfter from London, and no- thing intervened except the fcattered houfes, and a village which afterwards gave name to the whole. St. Martin's flood literally in the fields. But about the year 1560 a ftreet was formed, loofely built; for all the houfes on the fouth fide had great gardens to the river, were called by their owners names, and in after-times gave name to the feveral ftreets that fucceeded them, pointing down to the Thames ; each of them had ftairs for the conveniency of tak- ing boat, of which many to this day bear the names of the houfes. As the court was for centuries, either at the palace at Weftminfter * tymfr's Fcrdera, v. 762, or It 8 VAST INCREASE OF BUILDINGS. or Whitehall, a boat was the cuftomary conveyance of the great .to the prefence of their fovereign. The north fide was a mere line of houfes from Cbaring-Crofs to Temple-bar j all beyond was country. The gardens which occupied part of the fite of Convent - garden were bounded by fields, and St. Giles's was a diftant coun- try village. Thefe are circumftances proper to point out, to fhew the vaft increafe of our capital in little more than two centuries. IN the fame century was a fecond epoch refpecting the build- ings of this part of the town. The firft was at the time we have mentioned, or, to fpeak from flrong authority, as they appear in the plan of London, made about the year 1 562, by Ralph Aggas *. Our capital found itfelf fo fecure in the glorious government of Elizabeth, that, by the year 1600, moft confiderable additions were made to the north of the long line of ftreet juft defcribed. St. Martin's- lane was built on both fides. St. Giles's church was ftill infulatcd : but Broad Jlreet, and Holborn, were completely formed into ftreets with houfes, all the way to Snow-hill. Convent- garden, and Lincoln s -inn-fields, were built, but in an irregular manner. Drury-lane, Clare-fir eel, and Long-acre p , arofe in the lame period, NORTH UMBER- ^ HE P r &nt magnificent palace, Northtimberland-houfe, ftands LAND-HOUSE. on the fite of the hofpital of St. Mary Rounceval. Henry VIII. granted it to Sir Thomas Caverden. It was afterwards transferred to Henry Howard earl of Northampton ; who, in the time of James I. built here a houfe, and called it after his own name. He left it to his kinfman the earl of Suffolk, lord treafurer ; and, by the k See the plan of London, as it was in the year 1600, publifhed by John marriage NORTHUMBERLAND-HOUSE. marriage of Algernoon Percy, earl of Northumberland, with Eliza- beth daughter of Theopbilus earl of Suffolk, it pafled into the houfe of the prefent noble owner. The greater part of the houfe was built by Bernard Jan/en, an architect in the reign of James I i the portal, fmce altered by the late duke of Northumberland) by a cotemporary architect, Gerard Chriftmas, who left on it his mark, C. i*. I muft not omit, that in this houfe is the noble picture of the Cornaro family, by Titian. It is very unfortunate that nothing can be more confined than the fituation of this great houfe. The noble front is pent up by a very narrow part of the Strand-, and behind by a clufter of mean houfes, coal-wharfs, and other offenfive objects, as far as the banks of the Thames. Fortunately, by the favor of government, it enjoys the power of giving the place the moft magnificent improvement. The late duke received a leafe from the crown of all the intervening ground as far as the river ; and, within thefe very few years, an abfolute exchange for certain lands in Northumberland, to erect batteries on againft foreign invafion, at the period when the pro- ject of univerfal fortification prevaled. A little time may fee every nufance removed, and a terrace arife in their ftead, emulat- ing that of Somerfet '-houfe. A LITTLE farther is Hungerferd ftairs and market; which take their name from the great family of the Hungerfords of Fairleigh, STAINS. in Wiltjhire. Sir Edward, created knight, of the Bath at the coronation of Charles II. had a large houfe on the fite, which he pulled down, and multiplied into feveral others. ON the other fide of the Strand, almoft oppofite to Hungerford- - Sr - M*KTIN' r THK FIELDS. * Mr. Watyolt, S market, ST. MARTIN'S IN THE FIELDS. market, (lands the church of St. Martin in the Fields, once a parifh of vaft extent; but much reduced at prefent by the robbing it of the tract now divided into the parifhes of St. James, St. Anne, and St. Paul, Covent- garden. We cannot trace the time of its, foundation. It was early beftowed on the abbot and convent of St. Peter, Weftminfter. In 1222, there was a difpute between the abbot and the city of London, about the jurifdiction of this church.. And in 1363, we firft find the name of a vicar, in room of Thomas Skyn, who had refigned *.. In the reign of Henry VIII. a fmali church was built here at the king's expence, by reafon of the poverty of the parifhioners, who poffibly were at that period very few. In 1 607 it was enlarged> becaufe of the increafe of build- ings. In 1721 it was found neceffary to take the whole down, and in five years from that time, this magnificent temple f was completed, at the expence of near thirty- feven thoufand pounds.. This feems the bed performance of Gibbs, the architect of the Rate/if Library. The fleeple is far the moft elegant of any of that ftyle which I named the Pepper-box ; and with which (I beg pardon of the good people of Glafgow) I marked their beaded fleeple of Sti Andrew. Yo*s. HOUSE. HEATH, archbifhop of York, about the year 15.56, purchafed a houfe a little beyond Hungerford- market, which had originally been the inn or lodgings of the bifhops of Norwich. When Henry VIII. had difpoffeffed the primates of Tork of their houfe at Whitehall, the daughter, by way of reparation, made to them a grant of Suffolk-houfe, in Southwark; which he fold, and with the * Neivcourty i. 691. t It is engraven by //. Hulfebergh. money YORK- BUILDINGS. YORK- BUILDINGS. money purchafed Norwich-houfe, which afterwards was called Tork- bovfe, when George Vdliers duke of Buckingham became owner of ir. On his difpofal of it, feveral ftreets were laid out on the fite and ground belonging to it. Thefe go under the general appellation of York-buildings ; but his name and title is preferved in Gecrge y Villiers, Duke, and Buckingham ftreets, and even the particle 0/is not forgotten, being preferved in Of-alley. THE gate to Tork-Jlairs is the work of Inigo Jones, and deferv- ing of all the praifes bellowed on it by the author of the Critical Review. DURHAM-YARD takes its name from a palace, built originally DURHAM-PLACI by the illuftrious 'Thomas de Hat/ield, elected bifhop of "Durham in 1345 j defigned by him for the town refidence of him and his fucceffors. It was called Durham-place, i. e. palace. Be it known to all whom it concerns, that the word is only applicable to the habitations of princes, or princely perfons, and that it is with all the impropriety of vanity beftowed on the houfes of thofe who have luckily acquired money enough to pile on one another a greater quantity of ftones or bricks than their neighbors. At this place, in 1540, was held a moft magnificent feaft, given by the challengers of England, who had caufed to be proclamed, in France, Flanders, Scotland, and Spain, a great and triumphant jufting to be holden at Weftminfter, for all comers that would un- dertake them. But both challengers and defendants were Englijh. After the gallant fports of each day, the challengers rode unto this Durham-houfe, where they kept open houfehold, and feafted the king and queen (Anne of Cleves) with her ladies, and all the court. " In this time of their houfe-keeping, they had not only " feafted the king, queen, ladies, and all the court, as is afore- $2 " ihewed : GREAT FEAST- ING HERE I W 1540. ,32 DURHAM- PLACE. with the aldermen and their wives, at a din- st ner, &c. The king gave to every of the fayd challengers, and * f their heires for ever, in reward of their valiant activity, 100 elected biftiop of that fee in 1296. It was alfo called Chefter Inn, as that bifhoprick was at the time annexed to the former. The bifhops of Landaff had alfo another houfe or inn. Finally, the Strand Inn, an inn of Chancery, belonging to the Temple *. I muft (top a moment to fay, that Occleve, the poet of the reign of Henry V. ftudied the law here : the place of his education is called Cbeftres Inn f -, but, as that was never appropriated to the ftudy of the law, I little doubt but it is a miftake for this adjacent houfe. Every one of thefe were levelled to the ground by the protector Somerfet, to make way for the magnificent palace which bears his name. The architect is fuppofed to have been one John of Padua, who had a falary in the preceding reign, under the title of devizor of his majejly's buildings J, which was continued to him in the reign of the fbn. No atonement was made, no compenfation to the owners. Part of the church of St. John of Jerufalem, and the tower, were blown up for the fake of the materials. The cloifters on the north fide of St. Paul's underwent the fame fate, together with the charnel-houfe and chapel : the tombs were deftroyed* and the bones impioufly carried away and flung into Fin/bury Fields. This was done in 1549, when the building was firft be- gan : poflibly the founder never enjoyed the ufe of this palace ,- * DugdalSs Origines Judicialcs, 230. f Mr. Thomas War ton. J Anecdotes of Painting, i. 114.. CHESTER Ixrr. SOMERSET' HOUSE. T 2 for 140 ANTIEWT BUILDING. MURDER OF SIR EDMONBURY GODFREY. MURDER OF for in 1552 he fell a juft victim on the fcaffold. The crime of facrilege is never mentioned among the numerous articles brought againft him. This is no wonder, fmce every great man in thofe days, proteftant and papift, fhewed equal rapacity after the goods of the church. AFTER his death his palace fell to the crown. Queen Eliza- beth lived here at certain times, mod probably at the expence of her kinfman lord Hunjdon, to whom fhe had given the ufe. Anne of Denmark kept her court here : and Catherine queen of Charles II. lived here for fome time in the life of her unfaithful fpoufe j and after his deat'h, till Ihe retired into her native country. THE architecture of old Somerfet-houfe was- the mixture of Gre- cian and Gothic, introduced into England in the reign preceding, its erection. The back- front, and the water-gate, were built from a defign of Inigo Jones, after the year 1623. A chapel was be- gun by him in that year, and afterwards finifhed. It was intended for the ufe of his catholic fpoufe the Infanta of Spain-, but,, on the failure of that romantic matchj it ferved for the ufes of the profef- fors of her religion. As Charles II. did not find it compatible with his gallantries- that his fpoufe Catherine fliould be refident at Whitehall, he lodged her,, during fome part of his reign, in this palace. This made it the haunt of the Catholics : and poflibly, during the phrenetic rage of the nation at that period againft the profefifors of her religion, occafioned it to have been made the pretended fcene of the murder of Sir Edmonbury Godfrey, in the year 1678. The infamous witneffes againft his fuppofed murderers declared, that he was waylaid, and inveigled into the palace, under pre- tence SIR EDMONDBURY GODFREY. 141 tence of keeping the peace between two fervants who were front- ing in the yard : that he. was there ftrangled, his neck broke, and his own fword run through his body : that he was kept four days before the'y ventured to remove him j at length, his corpfe was firft carried in a fcdan-cRair to Soho, and then 6n a horfe to Primrofe-hill, between Kllburn and Hampftead. There it certainly was found, transfixed with the fword, and his money in his pocket, and his rings on his fingers. The murder therefore was not by robbers, but the effect of private- revenge : but it is not probable that it was committed within thefe walls j for the afiafiins would never have hazarded a difcovery by carrying the corpfe three miles, when they could have fo fafely difpofed of it into the Thames. The abandoned characters of the evidences, Prance and Eedloe (the former of whom had been treated with moft horrid cruelties, to compel him to confefs what he declared he never was guilty of) together with the abfurd and irreconcileable tefli- mony they gave on the trial, has made unprejudiced times to doubt the whole. That he was murdered there is no doubt : he had been an active magiftrate and had made many enemies. The marks of ftrangling round his throat, and his broken neck, evince the impoffibility of his having put an end to his own ex- iftence, as fome have infmuated. But the innocence of the three poor convicts would not avail, the torrent of prejudice prevaling againft them j and they were executed, denying the facts in the moment of death. One was a Proteftant : the other two Roman Catholics, ana belonging to the chapel ; fo probably were fixed on, by'the inftigators of the accufation, in order to involve the queen in the uncharitable fufpicion. x THIS, , 41 B A T H ' S I N N. THIS tragedy became at the time the fubjecYof many me- dals *. On one is the buft of Sir Edmondbury, and two hands ftrangling him : on the reverfe, the pope giving his benediction to a man ftrangling another on the ground. On a fecond, with the fame buft, is the reprefentation. of the carrying the magiftrate on horfeback to Primrofe-hill. A third, makes him walking with his broken neck, and fword buried in his body : and on the re- verfe, St. Dennis with his head in his hand, with this infcription : GODFREY walks up hill after he was dead, DENIS walks down hill carrying his head. THE prefent magnificent building is after a defign by Sir Wil- liam Chambers: when completed, it is to be the ftation of numbers of our public offices. The Navy Office, and indeed almoft every one, excepting the Treafury, the Secretary of State's, the Admi- ralty, and the War Office. THE Royal Society, and the Society of Antiquarians, hold their meetings here : and here alfo are annually exhibited the works of the Britijh painters and fculptors. THE terrace on the fouth fide is a walk boundecfby the Thamesy and unparalleled for grandeur and beauty of view. B , To the eaft of Somerfet-houfe y flood Bath's Inn, inhabited by the bifhops of Bath and Wells ^ in their vifits to the capital. It was wrefted from them, in the reign of Edward VI. by lord Thomas Seymour , high admiral, and received the name of Seymour- flace. This was one of the fcenes of his indecent dalliance with the princefs Elizabeth, afterwards queen. At firft he certainly * Sec Evelyn's Medals, 171, 172, 17$* 3 was ARUNDEL PALACE. 143 was not ill received, notwithftanding he had juft efpoufed the unhappy Catherine Parre. Ambition, not luft, actuated this wretched man : his defigns on Elizabeth, and confequently on the crown, fpurred him on. The inftrument of his defign was Thomas Parrye, cofferer to the princefs, to whom he offered, for her grace's accommodation, his houfe and all the furniture, during her ftay in London *. The queen's death, and her own fufpicions on her death-bed, give juft caufe of the fouleft fur- mifes f. His execution, which foon followed, put an end to his projects, and faved Elizabeth, and the nation, from a tyrant, pof- fibly worfe than him from whom they had been juft releafed. THIS houfe in after-times pafled to Thomas Howard earl of ARUNDEL PA LACE. Arundel, and was called Arundel palace. The Due de Sully, who was lodged in it during his embafTy to England, on the acceflion of James I. fays, it was one of the fined and moft commodious of any in London, from its great number of apartments on the fame floor : the views from the extenfive gardens, up and down the river, were remarkably fine. Here was kept the magnificent collection of ftatues formed by the earl. Howfoever faulty the noble hiftorian may have reprefented him in fome refpecls, his judgment in the fine arts will remain indifputable. His relation, the duke of Norfolk, had a houfe at a very fmall diftance from this. Both were pulled down in the laft century, but their names are retained in the ftreets which rofe on their fites. AFTER it came into the poflefiion of the duke of Norfolk (the * Burgbley's State Papers, p. 95. f Burgbley's State Papers, p. 103. The whole of his infamous conduft in this affair is fully related from p. 95 to 103. fame 144 OLD CROSS. MAY-POLE. fame who prefented his library to the Royal Society) he permit- ted that learned body to hold their meetings mdrundel-houfe-, but on its being ordered to be pulled down, the meetings were re- moved to Grefbam college *. AN OLD CROSS. OPPOSITE to Chefter Inn, flood an antient crofs. According to the fimplicity of the age, in the 'year 1294, and at other rimes, the judges fat without the city, on this crofs, to adminifler juftice ; and fometimes they made ufe of the bifhop's houfe for that purpofe. MAT-POLE. Iw-the beginning of the prefent century, fomewhat eaft of the fite of the crofs was the rural appearance of a May-pole. In 1717, it fell to decay, and the remainder was begged by Sir IJaac New- ton, who caufed it to be carried to Wanfted, in EJfcx, where it was erected in the park, and had the honor of raifmg the greareft tele- icope then known. On its place rofe the firfl of the fifty new churches, which is known by the name of the New Church in the Strand. The fii ft (lone was laid in 1/14. The architect was Gibbs j~ who loaded it with ornaments to fuch a degree as to gain very little credit to his own tafte, or that of his employers. D*u*y-HousE. I N Drury-lane, which points towards the church, flood Drury- boufe, the habitation of the great family of the Druries, and, I be- lieve, built by Sir William Drury, knight of the Garter, a mofl able commander in the Irifa wars j who unfortunately fell in a duel with Sir John Boroughs, in a foolifb quarrel about prece- dency f. I cannot learn into whofe hands it pafied afterwards. During the time of thefatal difcontents of the favorite EJJex, it * Memoirs of the Howards, p. 94.. f See Kenneth liift. ii. 449, 457, 473, 557. was CRAVEN-HOUSE. 145 was the place where his imprudent advifers refolved on fuch counfels, as terminated in the deflru&ion of him and his adhe- rents. IN the next century we find the heroic William lord Craven, AFTERWARD afterwards earl Craven, poffefled of this houfe : he rebuilt it in the CR AVE -Hous E . form we now fee, a large brick pile now concealed by other build- ings. It is at prefent a public-houfe. In fearching after Craven- boufe, I inftantly knew it by the fign, that of the queen of Bohe- mia's head, his admired miftrefs, whofe battles he firft fought, animated by love and duty. When he could afpire at her hand, it is fuppofed he fucceeded : it is faid they were privately mar- ried j and that he built for her the fine feat at Hampftead Mar- Jbaly in the county of Berks, which was deftroyed by fire. I have before given an account of this illuftrious nobleman *. I may repeat the fervice he rendered to this his native city in particular. He was fo indefatigable in preventing the ravages of the frequent fires of thofe days, that it was faid, that his very horfe fmelt ic out. He, and the duke of Albemarle (the noted Monk) heroi- cally flayed in town during the dreadful peftilence ; and, at the hazard of their lives, preferved order in the midft of the terrors of the time. IN the court in Craven-buddings is a very good portrait of this hero, in armour, with a truncheon in his hand, and mounted on his white horfe : on each fide is an earl's and a baron's coronet, and the letters W. C. It is painted alfrefco, and in good prefer- vation. THE theatre royal, in this ftreet, originated on the Refloration. Journey to Louden* U The 146 CHURCH OP ST. CLEMENT DANES. CHURCH OF ST. CLEMENT DANES. The king made a grant of a patent for acting in what was then called the Cock-pii ', and the Phxnix. The aftors were the king's fervants, were on the eftablifhment, and ten of them were called Gentlemen cf tbe Great Chamber, and had ten yards of fcarlet cloth allowed them, with a fuitable quantity of lace *. IT is fingular that this lane, of later times fo notorious for in* trigue, fhould receive its title from a family-name, which, in the language of Chaucer ; had an amorous fignification : Of bataille and of chevalrie, Of ladies love and Druerie, Anon I wol you tell. IN this neighborhood, towards the Temple, are feveral little feminaries of law, or inns of Chancery/ belonging to the Inner and Middle Temple : fuch as Lions-inn, in ufe as long at left as the reign of Henry V ; the New-inn, where the ftudents of the Strand-inn neftled, after they were routed from thence by the duke of Somerfet ; and Clements-inn, mentioned in the time of Edward IV. I muft not omit, that in New-inn the great Sir Thomas More had the early part of his education, before he re- moved to Lincoln' s-inn f . BETWEEN Clements-inn and the Strand, is the church of St. Clement Danes, called fo either from being the place of inter- ment of Harold the Barefooted, or of the maflacre of certain Danes who had taken refuge there : it was one of the churches built on this traft before the Conqueft. At the time of the infurrection of the unhappy earl of Effex ) a piece of artillery was placed on the Gibber's Apology, 75. f DvgJak's Origines, 187, zjo% top ESSEX-HOUSE, UNDER VARIOUS NAMES. 147 top of the tower, which commanded EJex-boufe. The prefent wis rebuilt in 1 640*. Here, beneath a tomb with his figure exprefied in brafs, was buried John Arundel, bifhop of Exeter, who died in 1503, at Exeter-boufe, the town refidence of the biihops of Exeter. EXSTBR-HOUSE. It was founded by Walter Stapleton, bifhop of that fee, and lord treafurer of England, unfortunately a favorite with Edward II. in thofe factious days : he was feized by the mob, hurried to Cheap- fide, where they beheaded him, and carried his corpfe before his own palace, and there buried it beneath a heap of fand. The houfe was faid to have been very magnificent. Lacy, bifhop of Exeter in the reign of Henry VI. added a great hall. The firft lord Paget t a good catholic, made no fcruple of laying violent hands on it, in the grand period of plunder. He improved it greatly, and called it after his own name. At this houfe it was alleged that the great duke of Somcrjet defigned the afiaflination of feveral of the council. This involved the noble owner in his ruin. In the reign of queen Elizabeth, it was pofTeffed by the great earl of Leicefter, and changed its name to Leicejler-boufe. The earl left it by will f to his fon-in-law Robert earl of EJJex, the unfortunate imprudent favorite of Elizabeth, and it was called after his name. This was the fcene of his frantic actions ; from hence he fallied on the vain hope of exciting the city to arm in his behalf againft its fovereign ; to this place he forced his way back, and after a fhort fiege fubmitted, and foon afterwards re- ceived his due punifhment, reluctantly inflicted by his miftrefs, hefitating between fear and unfeafonable love. The memory of PACET-HOUSS. LEICESTER- HOUSE. ESSEX-HOUSE. * Newcourt, i. 591. f Sydney Papers, i. 73. U 2 thefc THE TEMPLE. thefe tranfactions is ft ill retained in the name of Ejfex-ftreet, and EJJex-Jlairs, and Devereux- court. In the laft, on the outfide of a houfe, is placed a buft of the parlement general, fon of the un- fortunate favorite* THE Strand was divided, in 1670, from Fleet-ftreet, by the gate called Temple-far', before the great fire, by nothing but pofts r rails, and chains. On this gate have- been the fad exhibition of the heads of fuch unhappy men who attempt the fubverfion of the government of their country. The laft (and may they be the laft!) were of thofe who fell victims, in 1746, to principles fortu- nately extinct with the family from which they originated. This gate is the weftern limit of Farringdon Ward Without^ or the weftern extremity of the city of London. On the right hand are THE TEMPLE. l ^ e entrances into the Temple, one of our celebrated feats of law, which took ks name from that gallant religious military order the knights templars. They were originally crufaders, who hap- pening to be quartered in places adjacent to. the holy temple in Jerujalemy irr 1118, confecrated themfelves to the fervice of reli- gion, by deeds of * arms. Hugo de Paganis, Geoffry of St. Omers y , and feven others, began the order, by binding themfelves, after the manner of the regular canons of St. Sluguftines, to chattily and obedience, and profefling to protect the pilgrims to the Holy Land from all wrong and robbery on the road. At firft they fubfifted on alms, and had only one horfe between two of them ; a rule was appointed for them, and they wore a white habit, af- terwards diftinguifhed by a red crofs on their left Ihoulder. By * Ncwcour.t's Repertoriitm, i. 589, their KNIGHTS TEMPLARS. their devotion, and the fame of their gallant actions, they became very popular in all parts of Europe j and fo enriched by the favor of princes, and other great men, that, at the time of their diflblu- tion, the order was found poffcfTed of fixteen thoufand manors. It became at laft fo infected with pride, and luxury, as to excite general hatred j a perfecution, founded on moft unjuft and ficti- tious accufations, was formed againft them in France, under Philip le Eel. Their riches feem to have been their chief crime : num- bers of innocent and heroic knights fuffered in the flames, with the piety and conftancy of martyrs i fbme of them, at the flake, fum- moned their chief enemies, Clement V. and Philip, to appear in a certain time at the divine tribunal; both of thofe princes died about the time prefcribed, which, in an age of fuperftition, proved the validity. This potent order came into England in the reign of king Stephen^ and had their firft houfe in Holborn, which was called the Old Temple. They founded the New Temple in 1185, where they continued till the fupprefllon of the order in 1310, when they were condemned to perpetual penance, and difperfed into feveral monafteries. Edward II. granted this houfe, and all their other pofiefiions in London, to Thomas earl of Lancafter, and, after his rebellion and forfeiture, to Aymer de Valence, earl o{ Pem- broke > on his death, they reverted to the crown, and were given to the knights hofpitallers of the order of St. John of Jerusalem, a few years after they had fa valiantly driven the Turks out of the ifle of Rhodes^ Thefe knights again granted the Temple to the Undents of the common law, in the reign of Edward III. to whofc ufe it has been ever fmce applied. THE church was founded by the templars in the reign of Henry II. upon the model of that of the holy fepulchre, and was confecrated '4* FALL OF THB KNIGHTS TEMPLAR* ITS ROUN o CHURCH.. 1 50 TEMP'LE CHURCH: confecrated in 1185, by Heraclius, patriarch of Jcrujalem. The entrance is through a door with a Saxon arch. Within, the form is circular, fupported by fix round arches, each refting on four round pillars, bound together by a fafcia. Above each arch is a window with a rounded top, with a gallery, and rich Saxon arches interfering each other. On the outfide of the pillars is a confiderable fpace, prefcrving the circular form. On the lower part of the wall are fmall pilafters meeting in pointed arches at top, and 6ver each pillar a grotefque head. JOINED to this building, is a large choir of a fquare form, with narrow gothic windows, evidently built at another time. On the outfide is a buttrefs between every window. MONUMENTS. O N t ne floor of the round church are two groups of knights. In the firft are four, each of them crofs-legged, three of them in complete mail, in plain helmets flatted at top, and with very long fhields. One is known to have been Geoffry de Magnaville, created earl of Effex in 1 148. His end was fingular - t for, driven to defpair by the Snjufliceof his monarch king Stephen, he gave loofe to every act of violence. He was mortally wounded at an attack of Burwd- caftle, in Cambridgejhire ; and, being found by fome templars, was drefied by them in the habit of the order and carried from the fpot: as he died excommunicated, they wrapped his body in lead, and hung it on a crooked tree in the Temple orchard. On being abfolved by the pope (it being proved that he expreflcd great penitence in his laft moments) he was taken down, and buried firft in the cemetery, and afterwards in the place where we find this memorial of him *. Mr. Gcugb's Monum, i. 24. tab. v. ONE ANTIENT MONUMENTS THEREIN. 151 ONE of thefe figures is fingular, being bare-headed, and bald, his legs armed, his hands mailed, his mantle long, round his neck a cowl, as if, according to a common fuperftition in early days, he had defired to be buried in the drefs of a monk, lead the evil fpirit fhould take pofleflion of his body. On his ftiield are three fleurs de Its. IN this group is a ftone coffin of a ridged fhape, conjectured to have been the tomb of William Plantagenet, fifth fon of Henry III. IN the fecond group are other figures, but none of them crofs- legged, except the outmoft : all are armed in mail. The helmets much refemble the former, but two are mailed. One figure is in a fpirited attitude, drawing a broad dagger ; one leg refts on the tail of a cockatrice, the other in the action of being drawn up, with the head of the monfter beneath. None of the eight figures, except Geoffry de Magnaville, are afcertained ; but Cambden con- jeftures that three are intended to commemorate William earl of Pembroke, who died in 1219, and his fons William and Gilbert, likewife earls of Pembroke, and Marjhah of England *. In the firft group, one of them bears a lion on his fhield, the arms of that great family. Gilbert was brought up to the church, and, notwithstanding he was totally unfkilled in exercifes of chivalry, would enter into the gallant lifts i but mounting a fiery courfer, was run away with, flung off, and killed, at a tournament at Ware, in 1242. THE being reprefented crofs-legged is not always a proof of the deceafed having had the merit either of having been a cruifa- CamMtn, i, 38** The others are engraven in plate xix. MONUMENTS. , or having made a pilgrimage to the holy fepulchre. I have feen, at Mitton in Yorkflrire> two figures of the Sherbornes, thus reprefentedj one died in 1629, the other in 1689: who, I ve- rily believe, -could never have had any more than a wifh to enter the holy land. To thefe antient monuments may be added that of a bifhop, in his epiieopal drefs, a mitre, and a crofier, well executed in ftone. OF illuftrious perfons of later date, is the famous Phwdtn, a Sbropjhire man, treafurer of this fociety in 1572, and a lawyer of mod diftinguilhed abilities. Cambden fays of him, that in inte- grity he was fecond to none of his profefiion. His figure is re- prefented recumbent, and in his gown. HERE is interred the celebrated Selden, who died in 1654. He was the beft (killed in the conftitution, and tfie various branches of antiquity, of any man. Yet, towards the clofe of his life, he was fo thoroughly convinced of the vanity of all human knowlege, as to fay, that the i ith, I2th, ijth, and i4th verfes of the fecond chapter of the epiftle to Titus, afforded him more folid confola- tion than all that he had ever read. SIR John Vaughan, born at %fatv/toed, in Cardigan/hire, lies near his friend Mr. Selden : both their principles were anti-monar- chical. After the Reftoration, he declined preferment offered by the chancellor Clarendon, but afterwards accepted the office of chief juftice of the common pleas, from the enemies of that illuf* trious character. He died in 1674. THE magnificent hall was rebuilt in the treafurerfhip of Plow- den. It is ornamented with paintings by .Sir James Thornhill : and by two fwll-length portraits of thofe pillars of the law, Lyttleton, SPORTS IN THE TEMPLE HALL. 153 Lyttleton, who died in 1481; and his commentator, the able but infolent Coke, who departed in 1634. THE account of the great feaft given in this hall, by the fer- jeants, in 1555, is extremely worth confulting*; and alfo of the hofpitable Chriftmaflings of old times. Dudley earl of Leicefler once enjoyed them, and, with the romance of his miftrefs, ftyled himfelf Palapbilos, prince of Sophie. He was entertained here by a perfon representing a fovereign prince. Palapbilos, on feeing him, calls Largejs, and receives inftantly a chain of the value of a hundred talents. I muft refer to the Origines Judiciales j- for the relation of the ceremony of the reign of the Lord of Mifrule, and of his courtiers, Sir Francis Flatterer, Sir Randle Rackabite, and Sir Bartholotntw Baldbreech ; with the humour of hunting the fox and the cat round the hall, with ten couples of hounds, and all the other merry difports of thofe joyous days. IN the parlement chamber are painted all the arms of the trea- furers, fince the firft who poflefled the office. It is alfo adorned with fome of Gibbon's carving. THE Middle Temple gate was erected by Sir Amias Pozulet, on a fingular occafioh. It feems that Sir Antias, about the year 1501, thought fit to put cardinal Wolfey, then parfon of Lymington, into the (locks J. In 1 5 1 5, being fent for to London, by the cardinal, on account of that antient grudge, he was commanded not to quit town till farther orders. In confequence, he lodged five or fix years fl in this gateway, which he rebuilt ; and, to pacify his emi- * Origines Judi dales, 128. f '5 6. J FMJes's life of cardinal Wolfey, 7. )| Jfolinjbed, 918, who calls him Sir Jama. He was anceftor of earl PoivJft. X nencc, '54 THE TEMPLE GARDEN, THE DEVIL TAVERN. TEMPLE GARDEN. nence, adorned the front with the cardinal's cap, badges, cogni- fance, and other devices, of this butcher's fon : fo low were the great men obliged to (loop to that meteor of the times * ! THE garden has of late been moft judieioufly enlarged, by a confiderable embankment into the riverj and part of the filthy muddy fhore is converted into a mod beautiful walk. The view up and down the water is moft extremely rich. Blackfriars- bridge, part of Weftminjter-kn&g:., \.\\tAdel$hi, and the elegant back front of Somerfet-boufe, rival the world in variety and magnificence of objects. If elegance alone was to be confulted, it is heartily to be wifhed that thefe embankments may make a farther progrefs j the defect of which, alone, gives to the Seine, at Paris, a boafted fuperiority. Without the prejudices of an Englishman, I will ven- ture to dare a comparifon of the bridges j but the moft partial foreigner will never hazard the comparifon of the rivers. SHAKESPEARE (whether from tradition, or hiftory, I know not) makes the 'Temple garden the place in which the badge of the white and red rofe originated, the diftinctive badge of the houfes of Tork and Lancafter, under which the refpective partizans of each arranged themfelves, in the fatal quarrel which caufed fuch torrents of Englijh blood to flow. The brawl to-day Grown to this faUon in the Pimple Garden, Shall fend, between the red rofe and the white A thoufand fouls to death and deadly night f. NEAR Temple-bar is the Devil 'Tavern, fo called from its fign of St. Dun/Ian feizing the evil fpirit by the nofe with a pair of This gate was burnt in the great fire. f Firft part of Henry VI. aft ii. fc. iv. hot INNS IN CHANCERY-LANE. 155 hot tongs. Ben Jonfon has immor tali fed it by his Leges Convi- viaksy which he wrote for the regulation of a club of wits, held here in a room he dedicated to A^cllo ; over the chimney-piece of which they are preferved. The tavern was in his days kept by Simon Wadloe j whom, in a copy of verfes over the door of the Afollo, he dignified with the title of King of Skinkers. OPPOSITE to this noted houfe is Chancery -lane, the moft antient of any to the weft. It was built in the time of Henry III. and then called New-lane j which was afterwards changed into its pre- fcnt name, on account of its vicinity to the courts. SERJEANTS-INN is the fjrft which opens into the lane: it takes its name from having been in old times the refidence or lodgings of the ferjeants at law, as early at left as the time of Henry VI. It was at that time, and poflibly may be yet, held under a leafe from the dean and chapter of Tork. In 1442 William Antrobus, citizen and taylor of London, held it at the rent of x marks a year, under the law Latin defcription ofUnitm mejjuagium cum gar- dlno in parocbia S. Dunftani, in Fleet-ftreet, in Juburbio civitatis LONDINI, quod nuper fuit Johannis Rote, 6? in quo Job. Ellerkar, it alii Jervientes ad legem nuper inhabiterunt *. CLIFFORDS-INN is the next, fo named from its having been the town refidence of Robert de Clifford, anceftor to the earls of Cumberland* It was granted to him by Edward II ; and his Avidow granted it to the ftudents of the to, in the next reign, for the yearly rent of ten pounds f . FARTHER up is the Rolls. The houfe was founded by Henry III. for converted Jews y who there lived under a learned Chriftian, * Oflghtet Judictalts, 3 26. t The fame, 187. X 2 CHANCERY- LANE. SERJEANTI-IKN. THE ROLH. appointed , 5 6 T H E R O'L L S: appointed to inftruct and govern them. In 1279, Edward I. caufed about two hundred and eighty Jews, of both fexes, to be hanged for clipping. He beftowed one half of their effects on the firft preachers, who undertook the trouble of converting the unbelieving race ; and the other half for the fupport of the con- verts : the houfe was called Domus Converforum. In 1377, it was firft applied to its prefent life : and the mafter was called Cuftos Rotulorum : the firft was William Burjlal, clerk. The matters were felefted out of the church, and often king's chaplains, till the year if34> when 'Thomas Cromwel y afterwards earl of Effex, was appointed. It is an office of high rank, and follows that of chief juftice of the king's bench. The mafter has his chaplain, and his preacher. CHAPEL. THE chapel is adjacent to the houfe, and was built by Inigo Jones > begun in 1617, and finilhed at the expence of two thou- fand pounds. It was confecrated by George Mounteignc, bifhop of London , and the fermon preached by the famous Doctor Donne. Among the monuments is one of the matters, Sir Edward Bruce, created by James I. after his acceflion, baron of Kinlojs. He is reprefented lying reclined, with his head refting on one hand. His hair is fliortj his beard long, and divided towards the end; his drefs a long furred robe. Before him is kneeling a man in armour, poffibly his fon lord Kinkfs, who periftied in the defperate duel between him and Sir Edward Sackville, in 1613; and ancef- tor to the earls of Elgin and Aylejbury. The fad relation is given by Sir Edward himfelf. He feems folely actuated by honor. His rival by the deepeft * revenge. 9 See the Guardian, N cl 129, 133 and Col/iat's Peerage, ii. 195 to 197. 9 MONUMENTS IN THE CHAPEL. 157 HE was one of the ambafiadors fern by James to congratulate queen Elizabeth on the defeat of Effex's infurrection. He then commenced a fecret correfpondence with the fubtle Cecil; and, when James came to the throne, was, befides the peerage, re- warded with the place of mailer of the rolls for life. He died January I4th 1610. . THE monument of John Tonge, D. L. L. is the work of Tcr- regiano*. His figure is recumbent on zfarcophagus, in a long red gown, and deep fquare cap ; his face finely executed, pofllbly from a caft after his death ; his chin beardlefs. Above him is the head of our Saviour, and two cherubims : refiftlefs fuperfti- tions of the artift. This gentleman was appointed matter of the rolls in 1510, and died in 1517. THERE is another handfome monument, of Sir Richard Alling- ton y knight (fon of Sir Giles Allington, of Horfeheath, in Cam- bridgejhirey knight, anceftor, by his firft wife, of the lords Ailing- ton) who lies here, by the accident of his marriage with Jane daughter of John Cordally efq; of Long-Melford y in Suffolk, and fifter and coheir of Sir William Cor daily of the fame place, knight, and mafter of the rolls. Sir Richardy I prefume, died here : the date of his death is 1561. His figure is reprefented kneeling, in armour, with a fhort beard and hair. His wife is oppofite ; and beneath, on a tablet, are three female figures^ alfo kneeling i thefe were his daughters. After his death his widow lived in Holborny at a houfe fhe built, which long went by the name of Allington-flace. She appears, by fome of the parochial records of this town, to have been a lady of great charity, Mr. Mr i S S CHICHESTER RENTS. LINCOLN'S-INN. LINCOLN'S-INN: MY countryman Sir John 'Trevor, who died matter of the rolls, in 1717, lies here. Wifely his epitaph is thus confined, " Sir J. T. " M. R. 1717." I will not repeat the evil, which regard to vera~ city obliged me to fay of him in another place *. Some other matters reft within thefe walls , among them, Sir John Strange, but without the quibbling line, Here lies an honeft Lawyer, that is Strange! ADJACENT to Chancery-lane, the bifhops of Chichefter had their town houfe. It was built in a garden, once belonging to John Herbert on, and was granted to them by Henry III. who excepted it out of the charter of the Domus Converforum f. At prefent the fite is covered with houfes, known by the name of Chichefter Rents. THE gate to Lincoln s*Inn is of brick, but no fmall ornament to the ftreet. It was built by Sir Thomas Level, once a member of this inn, and afterwards treafurer of the houfhold to Henry VII. The other parts were rebuilt at different times, but much about the fame period. None of the original building is left, for it was formed out of the houfe of the Black Friars, which fronted Hoi- lorn ; and of the palace of Ralph Nevil, chancellor of England, and bifhop of Chichefter, built by him in the reign of Henry III. on a piece of ground granted to him by the king. It continued to be inhabited by fome of his fucceflbrs in the fee. This was the original fite of the Dominicans, or Black Friars, before they removed to the fpot now known by that name. On part of the .ground now covered with buildings, Henry Lacy, earl of Lin- * Tour in Wales, i. 293, zd. ed. f Cb. J. Brooke, efij. REVELS IN ITS HALL. coin, built an Inne y as it was in thofe days called, for himfelf, in which he died in 1312. The ground did belong to the- Black Friars, and was granted by Edward I. to that great earl. The whole has retained his name. One of the bifhops of Chiche/ter, in after times, did grant leafes of the buildings to certain ftudents of the law, referving to themfelves a rent and lodgings for them- felves, whenever they came to town. This feems to have taken, place about the time of Henry VII. THE chapel was defigned by Inigo Jones ; it is built upon maffy pillars, and affords, under its Ihelter, an excellent walk. This work evinces that Inigo never was defigned for a gotbic architect. The lord chancellor holds his fittings in the great hall. This, like that of the Temple, had its revels, and great Chriftmaffes. Inflead of the Lord of Mifrule, it had its King of the Cocknics. They had alfo a Jack Straw ; but in the time of queen Elizabeth he, and all his adherents, were utterly banifhed. I muft not omit, that in the fame reign fumptuary laws were made to regulate the drefs of the members of the houfe; who were forbidden to wear long hair, or great ruffs, cloaks, boots, or fpurs. In the reign of Henry VIII. beards were prohibited at the great table, under pain of paying double commons. His daughter EUzabetb y in the firft year of her reign, confined them to a fortnight's growth, under penalty of 3^. 4^.; but the fafhion prevaled fo ftrongly, that the prohibition was repealed, and no manner of fize limited to that venerable excrefcence ! LINCOLN'S-INN-FJELDS would have been one of our mofl beautiful fquares, had it been built on a regular plan. The difpofition of it was, in 1618, committed to the care of the lord chancellor, the earls of Worcefter, Pembroke) Arundel, and 6 others* 159 CHAFEL. ANTIENT REVELS. REGULATION* ABOUT BEARDS. LINCOLN'S-INN- FIELD** 160 EXECUTION OF LORD RUSSEL. NEWCASTLE- HOUSE. LINCOLN'S-INN-FIELDS. others. Inigo Jones drew the ground-plot, and gave it the exact dimenfions of the bafe of one of the pyramids of Egypt. In the fide called Portugal Row, is Lindefey-houfe, once the feat of the earls of Lindcley, and of their defcendaats the dukes oAncafter\ built after a beautiful delign of that great architect. The view of this fide of the fquare, and of Lincoln's -Inn gardens, is moft particularly pleafing, when fhone on by the weftern fun. Here alfo was, in the time of king IVillianij a playhoufe, erected within the walls of the tennis-court, under the royal patronage. In this theatre Betterton, and his troop of actors, excited the admiration of the public, if we may credit Gibber, as much as Rofcius did the people of Rome, or Garrick thofe of England in recent days. ON another ftage, of a different nature, was performed the fad tragedy of the death of the virtuous lord Ruffel, who loft his head in the middle of the fquare, on July 21 ft, 1683. Party writers aflert that he was brought here in preference to any other fpot, in order to mortify the citizens with the fight. In fact, it was the neareft open fpace to Newgate^ the place of his lordfhip's confine- ment : otherwife the dragging him to tower-hill, the ufual con- cluding fcene on thefe dreadful occafior^, would have given his enemies full opportunity of indulging the imputed malice. IN the fame fquare, at the corner of >ueen-ftreet y (lands a houfe inhabited by the well known minifter, the late duke of Newcaftle. It was built about the year 1686, by the marquis of Powis, and ^called Powis-boufe, and afterwards fold to the late noble owner. The architect was captain William IVinde. IN the laft century gueen-ftreet was the refidence of many of our people of rank. Among others was Conway-houfe, the refi- dence of the noble family of that name j Paulet-boufe, belonging to ST. GILES'S IN THE FIELDS. 161 to the marquis of Ifincbefter ; and the houfe in which lord Herbert, of Cherbury, finifhed his romantic life. ON the back part of Portugal Row , is Clare-market ; clofe to which, the fccond John earl of Clare had a palace of his own building, in which he lived about the year 1657, in a moft princely manner *. I SHALL purfue, from. Queen-ftreet, my journey weftward, and point out the moft remarkable places which rofe into being be- tween the years 1562 and 1600, and incidentally of fome others of later date. I have before mentioned the ftreets which rofe in that period. Let me add, that Long-acre was built on a piece of ground, once belonging to Weftminfter-abby> called the feven acres, and which, in 1552, were granted to John earl of Bedford. ST. GILES'S church, and a few houfes to the weft of it, in the year 1600, was but barely feparated from Rroad-ftreet. The church is fuppofed to have belonged to an hofpital for lepers, founded about the year 1117, by Matilda queen to Henry I. In antient times it was cuftomary to prefent to malefactors, on their way to the gallows (which, about the year 1413, was removed from Smitbfield, and placed between St. Giles's High-ftreet t and Hog-lane) a great bowl of ale, as the laft refrefliment they were to receive in this life f- On the door to the church-yard is a curious piece of fculpture, reprefenting the laft day, containing an amazing number of figures, fet up about the year 1686. HIRE was executed, in the moft barbarous manner, the famous Sir Jobn Idea/lie, baron Cobbam. His crime was that of adopt- * Hovuel's Hid. London, 345. f Neva court, i. 6 1 1 . Y LONG-ACRE. ST. GILES'S IN THE FIELDS. ing j6i EXECUTION OF SIR JOHN OLDCASTLE. ing the tenets of Wyctiffe. He was mifreprefented to our hercic prince, Henry V, by the bigoted clergy, as a heretic and traitor j and that he was actually at the head of thirty thoufand Lollards, in thefe very fields. About a hundred inoffenfive people were found there : Cobbam efcaped j but was taken fome time after in Wales. He fuffered death on this fpot : was hung on a gallows, by a chain faflened round his body, and, thus fufpended, burnt alive, tie died, not with the calm conftancy of a martyr, but with the wildeft effufions of enthufiaftic ravings. CHURCH. THIS church was rebuilt in 1625. By the amazing railing of the ground by filth, and various adventitious matter, the floor, in the year 1730, was eight feet below the furface acquired in the intervening time. This alone made it necefTary to rebuild the church, in the prefent century. The firft ftone was laid in 1730 ; it was finifhed in 1734, at the expence of ten thoufand pounds, in a manner which does great credit to its architect, Mr. Henry Flilcraft. IN the church-yard I have obferved with horror a great fquare pit, with many rows of coffins piled one upon the other, all ex- pofed to fight and fmell. Some of the piles were incomplete, expecting the mortality of the night. I turned away difgufted at the view, and fcandalized at the want of police, which fo little re- gards the health of the living as to permit fo many putrid corpfes, tacked between fome flight boards, difperfing their dangerous effluvia over the capital. NEAR the church was the houfe of Alice dutchefs Dudley, who died here in 1669, aged ninety. She was the widow of the great Sir Robert Dudley, fon to Robert earl of Leiccfter, who, by various untoward circumftances, was denied legitimacy, and his paternal effaces T Y B O U R N E. x6 3 eflates. He aflumed the title of duke of Northumberland, and lived and died in great eftimation in Tufcany. This lady was ad- vanced to the title of dutchefs by Charles I. She merited the honor by the greatnefs of her mind and extent of her charities. Her body was interred at Stonely, in Warwickfloire, the place of her family, fhe being third daughter of Sir Thomas Leigh, of Stonely, anceftor of the late lord Leigh. A fine monument was erected to her honor at Stonely *, and a grateful memorial of her in this church. THE mention of St. Giles's bowl, naturally brings one to the late place of the conclufion of human laws. It was called in the time of Edward III. when the gentle Mortimer finiihed his days here, fhe Elms ; but the original as well as prefent name was fybourne, TYBOURNB. not from tye and burn, as if it was called fo from the manner of capital punifhments, but from Bourne, the Saxon word for a brook, which gave name to a manor before the Conqueft. Here was alfo a village and church denominated St. John the Evangelift, which fell to decay, and was fucceeded by that of Mary bourne, corrupted into Mary-la-bonne. About the year 1238, this brook furnifhed nine conduits for fupplying the city with water : but the introduction of the New River fuperfeded the ufe of them. Here the lord mayor had a banquetting-houfe, to which his lordfhip and brethren were wont to repair on horfeback, attended by their ladies in waggons : and, after viewing the conduits, they returned to the city, where they were magnificently entertained by the lord mayor f. * See Dugdalc's Wariuickjkire, i. 260 ; in which is a print of the tomb, and a lift of her great charities. f Mai t land, ii. 1373. Y 2 IN 164 BEDFORD AND MONTAGUE HOUSES. IN 1626, queen Henrietta Maria was compelled by her priefts to take a walk, by way of penance, to 'Tyburn. What her offence was we are not told ; but Claries was fo difgufted at this info- lence, that he foon after fent them, and all her majefty's French fervants, out of the kingdom *. I SHALL return through the mile and a quarter of country, at this time formed into Oxford-ftreet, as handfome a one as any in Europe, and, I believe, the longed. After patting through Broad- Jlreet, and getting into Holborn, is Bloom/bury, the ancient manor of Lcmejbury, in which our kings in early times had their ftables : all the fpace is at prefent covered with handfome ftreets, and a fine fquare. This was firft called Southampton-Jquare ; and the great houfe which forms one fide, built after a defign of Inigo BEDFORD-HOUSE. Jones, Southampton (now Bedford) boufe. From hence the ami- able relict of William lord Ruffel dates her letters; this being her refidence till her death in 1723. The late duke fitted up the gallery, and bought the cartoons, copied by Sir James Thcrnhill, at the fale of that eminent artift. MONTAGUE-HOUSE (now the Britijb Mujeum) was built on a French plan, by the firft duke of Montague, who had been ambaffk- dor in France. The ftaircafe and ceilings were painted by RouJJeatt and La Fojfe : the apotheofis oflris > and the aflembly of the gods, are by the laft. His grace's fecond wife was the mad dutchefs of Albemarle, widow to Cbriftopher, fecond duke of that title. She married her fecond hufband as emperor of China, which gave oc- - cafiorrto a fcene in Sir Courtly Nice. She was kept in the ground apartment during his grace's life, and was ferved on the knee to the day of her death, which happened in 1731, at Newcaftle-houfe, at MONTAGUE- HOUSE. Wbittkck, 8. ClerkenwlL RED-LION SQUARE. BLOOMSBURY CHURCH. 165 Clerkenwell *. The fecond duke and dutchefs lived only in one of the wings, till their houfe at Whitehall was completed. I MUST mention, that to the eafb of Bloomflmry-Jquare, in Great Ormond-ftreet, flood in my memory Powis-boitfe, originally built by the marquis of Powis, in the laft century. When it was occu- pied by the Due d'Aumont, ambafTador from Louis XIV. in 1712, it was burnt down, and rebuilt at the expence of that magnificent monarch. It was of brick, and ornamented with fluted pilafters. On the top was a great refervoir, as a guard againft fire, and it alfo ferved as a fifh-pond. This houfe was pulled down and the ground granted on building leafes. 1 SHALL juft mention Red-tion-fquare, not far to the fouth of this houfe, merely for the fake of fome lines on its clumfy obelifk : Obtufum Obtufioris Ingenii Monumentum. Quid me refpicis viator? Vade. NOT far from Holborn, is the church of St. George, in Bloomf- bury, which, with its magnificent porch fupported by pillars of the Corinthian order, placed before a plain body, and its won- drous fteeple, I cannot ftigmatize ftronger than in the words of Mr. Wal$ole> who ftyles it a mafterpiece of abfurdity. On the tower is a pyramid, at each corner of which are the fupporters of England) a lion and an unicorn alternate, the firft with its heels upwards: and the pyramid finifhes with the ftatue of George L The architect was Nicholas Hawkfmoor. The church was con- Powis-HousB. RED-LION- SQUARE. ST. GEORGE'S BLOOMSBURY. * J. C, Brockt, efq. fecrated GRAY'S-INN. THE OLD TEMPLE. fecrated in 1731 : and is a parifti taken out of that of St. Giles. The fquare was, in the beginning of this century, the refidence of many of our nobility , in later times, that of the more wealthy gentlemen of the long robe. WE now enter again on the ftormy latitude of the law. Lin- coln's-Inn is left a little to the fouth. Chancery-lane gapes on the fame fide, to receive the numberlefs malheurcufes, who plunge un- warily on the rocks and fhelves with which it abounds. The antient feminary of the law, Gray's-Inn, ftands on the north fide. It was originally the refidence of the lord Grays, from the year 1315, when John y the fon of Reginold de Grey, refided here, till the latter end of the reign of Henry VII. when it was fold, by Edmund lord Grey of Wilton, to Hugh Dennys, efq; by the name of the manor of Portpole ; and in eight years afterwards it was difpofed of to the prior and convent of Shene, who again difpofed of it to the ftudents of the law. Not but that they were feated here much earlier, it appearing that they had leafed a refidence here from the lord Grays as early as the reign of Edward III. * It is a very extenfive building, and has large gardens belonging to it. Gray's-Inn- Lane is to the eaft. I there obferved, at a ftone ma- fon's, a manufactory of ftone coffins quite a V antique, fuch as we fometimes dig up in conventual ruins, or old churches. I en- quired whether they were defigned for any particular peribns, but was told they were only for chance cuftomers, who thought they Ihould lie fecurer lodged in ftone than in wood. THE OLD NEAR the entrance into Chancery-lane were the bars : adjacent " PLB - flood the Old Temple, founded in 1118, the firft feat of the knights templars, before they removed to the New Temple. About Qrigines Judi dales, 272. 1 the S O U T H A M P T O N-H O U S E. 167 the year 1595, one Agafter Roper*, who was engaged in building on the fpot, difcovered ruins of the old church, which was of a circular form, and built of ftone brought from Caen in Nor- mandy. A LITTLE beyond is Southampton-buildings, built on the fite of SOUTHAMPTON- Southampton-houfe, the manfion of the Wriothejleys earls of South^ HOUSE, ampton. The Kings-bead tavern, facing Holborn, is the only part which now remains : the chapel to the houfe is now rented by Mr. Lockyer Davies y as a magazine for books. Here ended his days Thomas, the laft earl of that title, the faithful virtuous fer- vant of Charles I. and lord treafurer in the beginning of the reign of the ungrateful fon. He died in 1667, barely in pof- feflion of the white rod, which his profligate enemies were with difficulty difluaded from wrefting out of his dying hands. He had the happinefs of marrying his daughter and heirefs to a nobleman of congenial merit, the ill-fared lord Rujel. Her virtues underwent a fiery trial, and came out of the teft, if pofiible, more pure. I cannot read of her laft interviews with her devoted lord, without the ftrongeft emotions. Her greatnefs of mind ap- pears to uncommon advantage. The laft fcene is beyond the power of either pen or pencil. In this houfe they lived many years. When his lordfhip pafled by it in the way to execution, he felt a momentary bitternefs of death in recollecting the happy moments of the place. He looked towards Soutbampton-houfe : the tear ftarted into his eye, but he inftantly wiped it awayf. NOT far from hence, on the north fide, in the ftreet called * S tow's Survaie, 824. f Introduftion to lady Rachel Ru/d'* letters, cxflavo, p. Ixxvi. i68 BROOK-HOUSE: FATE OF ITS OWNER. Brcok-ftreet y was Brook-bcufe, the refidence of Sir Fulke Grevillt lord Brcck, the nobleman whofe chief ambition was to be thought, as he caufed to be expreJTed on his tomb at Warwick, the friend of Sir Philip Sydney. He was a man of abilities, and a particular patron of learned men j who repayed his bounty, by what coft them little, numbers of flattering dedications. He died by the hand of Ralph Haywood, a gentleman who had pafTed mod of his days in his lordfhip's fervice. For fome reafon unknown, he had left him out of his will, and was weak enough to let him know of it. In September, 1628, Haywood entered into his lord's bed- chamber, and, expoftulating with great warmth on the ufage be met with, his lordfhip anfwering with afperity, received from him a mortal wound with a fword. The afiaffin retired into ano- ther room, in which he inftantly deftroyed himfelf with the fame inftrument. His lordfhip languifhed a few days, and, after grate- fully forming anothef codicil, to reward his furgeons and atten- dants for their care, died in his 75th year *. FURKIVALS-INN. IN this neighborhood, on each fide of Holborn, is a tremendous array of inns of courts. Next to Brcok-ftreet is Furnivah-Inn t in old times the town abode of the lord Furnivals, extinct in the male line in the 6th of Richard II. Navies-Inn is another, old as the time of Edward III. It took its name from John Tavye'-, who directed, that, after the deceafe of his wife Alice, his eftates, and the Hofpidum in quo apprentice ad legem habitare Jolebant> fhould be fold in order to maintain a chaplain, who was to pray for his foul and that of his fpoufe. The original ufe of this inn continues to this day. THAVIES-INN. * Edmondforfs account of the Grevilte family, 86. A THIRD INNS IN HOLBORN. A THIRD is Staples-Inn, fb called from its being a ftaple in which the wool merchants were ufed to aflemble: but it had given place to ftudents in law, pofiibly before the reign of Henry V. And a fourth is Barnard's- Inn, originally Mackwortb's-Inn, hav- ing been given by the executors of John Mackwortb, dean of Lin- coln, to the dean and chapter of Lincoln, on condition that they fliould find a pious prieft to perform divine fervice in the cathe- dral of Lincoln, in which John Mackworth lies interred. As to Scroop* s-Inn, it was an inn for ferjeants at the law, in the time of Richard\\.-, it took its name from having once been the town-houfe of one of the lord Scroops, of Bolton. It is now an extinct vulcano, and the crater ufed as a quiet court, bearing its antient name. HATTON-STREET, the late Hatton-garden, fucceeded to the town-houfe and gardens of the lord Hattons, founded by Sir Cbrif- toper Hatton, lord keeper in the reign of queen Elizabeth. He firft attracted the royal notice by his fine perfon, and fine dancing j but his intellectual accomplifhments were far from fuperficial. He difcharged his great office with applaufe ; but, diftrufting his legal abilities, never acted without the affiftance of two able lawyers. The place he built his houfe on, was the orchard and garden belonging to Ely-boufe. By his intereft with the queen he extorted it from the bifhop, Richard Cox, who for a long time refilled the facrilege. Here he died, and was interred in the cathedral of St. Paul's. THIS palace was long before diftinguifhed by the death of a much greater man j for, at this houfe of the bifliop of Ely, fay hif- torians, John duke of Lancafter, otherwife John of Gaunt, in 1 398* breathed his laft, after (according to Sbakefpeare) giving his dying fruitlefs admonition to his difiipated nephew Richard II. Z ADJACENT 169 STAPLES-INN. BARNARD'S-!NN. HATTOW- GARDEN. 170 ELY-HOUSI, GREAT FEASTS HELD HERE. ELY-HOUSE: ADJACENT flood, in my memory, Ely-houfe, the refidence of the bifliops of Ely. John de Kirkby, who died bifhop of Ely, in 1290, laid the foundation of this palace, by bequeathing feveral mefTuages in this place ; ethers were purchafed by his fucceiTor William de Luda -, at length the whole, confifted of twenty, fome fay forty acres, was inclofed in a wall. Holinjhed has recorded the excellency of the ftrawberries cultivated in the garden by bifhop Morton. He informs us that Richard duke of Glocefter (after- wards Richard III.) at the council held in the Tower, on the morning he put Hajlings to death, requefled a difh of them from the bifhop. Mr. Grofe has given us two reprefentations of the buildings and chapel. Here was a moft venerable hall, feventy- four feet long, lighted with fix gothic windows ; and all the furni- ture fuited the hofpitality of the times : this room the ferjeants at law frequently borrowed to hold their feafts in, on account of its fize. In the year 1531, eleven gentlemen, who had juft been honored with the coif, gave a grand feaft here five days fuccef- fively. On the firfl, the king and his queen, Catherine of drra- gon, graced them with their prefence. For quantity of provifions it refembled a coronation feaft : the minutiae are not given ; but the following particular of part will fuffice * to fhew its greatnefs, as well as the wonderful fcarcity of money in thofe days, evinced by the fmallnefs of the prices compared to thofe of the prefent days: . * * Brought to the flaughter-houfe 24 beeves, each - i 6 8 One carcafe of an oxe from the fhambles 14 * Stow, book iii. One ITS RECENT ALIENATION. i 7I L s. d. One hundred fat muttons, each 2 10 Fifty-one great veales, at 48 Thirty-four porkes, at 33 Ninety-one pigs, at 6 Capons of Greece^ of one poulter (for he had three) ten dozens, at (apiece) i 8 Capons of Kent t nine dozen and fix, at i _ Cocks of grofe, feaven dozen and nine, at 8 Cocks courfe xiii dozen, at 8 d. and 3 d. apiece Pullets, the beft 2 { d. each. Other pullets 2 Pigeons 37 dozen, each dozen - 2 Swans xiii dozen Larkes 340 dozen, each dozen 5 THE chapel (which was dedicated to St. Etheldreda y foundrefs CHAFBL. of the monaftery at Ely) has at the eaft end a very handfome gotbic window, which looks into a neat court, lately built, called Ely-place. Beneath is a crypt of the length of the chapel. The cloifters formed a fquare on the fouth fide. THE feveral buildings belonging to this palace falling into ruin, it was thought proper to enable, by aft ofparlement, in 1772, the bifliop to alienate the whole. It was accordingly fold to the crown, for the fum of fix thoufand five hundred pounds, together with an annuity of two hundred pounds a year, to be payed to the bifhop and his fuccefibrs for ever. Out of the firft, five thoufand fix hundred was applied towards the purchafe of Albemark-bouje^ in Dover-Jlreef, with other mefiuages and gar- dens. The remainder, together with three thoufand pounds paid as dilapidations by the executors of bifliop Maw/on, was applied Z 2 towards i 7 a ST. ANDREW'S HOLE ORN, towards building the handfome houfe at prefent occupied, in Do- i'er-ftreet, by my refpecled friend the prefent prelate. This was named Ely-houfe, and is fettkd on the bifhops of Ely for ever. It was the fortune of that munificent prelate Edmund Keene, to rebuild or repair more ecclefiaftical houfes than any churchman of modern days. He beftowed moft confiderable repairs on the parfonage-houfe of Stanhope, in the bifhoprick of Durham. He wholly rebuilt the palace at Chefter. He reftored almoft from ruin that at Ely j and, finally, Ely-houfe was built under his in- fpection. To revert to antient times. John duke of Lancafter, ftyled ufually John of Gaunt, refided in this palace, and died here in 1 399 : poflibly it was lent to him, during the long pofTeflion that bifhop Fordham had of the fee, after the duke's own palace, the Savoy, was burnt by the infurgents. ST. ANDREW'S FROM hence is a fteep defcent down Holborn-hill. On the fouth fide is St. Andrew's church, of confiderable antiquity, but rebuilt in the laft century in a plain neat manner. Here was buried Thomas Wriotbefley, lord chancellor in the latter part of the life of Henry VIII - y a fiery zealot, who, not content with feeing the amiable innocent Anne AJkew put to the torture, for no other crime than difference of faith, flung off his gown, degraded the chancellor into the Eourreau, and with his own hands gave force to the rack *. He was created earl of South- ampton, juft before the coronation of Edward VI -, but, obftinately adhering to the old religion, he was difmifled from his poft, and confined to South amp ton- houfe, where he died in 1550. * Ballard's lives of Britijh ladies, 52. 3 THE SACHEVEREL AND WHISTON. '73 GHOST.. THE well-known party tool Doctor Sacheverel was rector o this church. He had the chance of meeting in his parifh a per- fon as turbulent as himfelf, the noted Mr. Whifton: that fm- gular character took it into his head to difturb the doctor while he was in his pulpit, venting fome doctrine contrary to the opinion of that heterodox man. The doctor in great wrath de- fcended from on high, and fairly turned wicked Will. Whifton into the ftreet. IN afcending to Weft Smithfieldy Cock-lane is left to the right j a ridiculous fcene of impofture, in the affair of the Cock-lane ghoft, which was to detect the murderer of the body it lately inhabited, by its appearance in the vault of St. John's church, Clerkenwell. The credulity of the EngUJh nation was moft fully difplayed, by the great concourfe of people of all ranks, to hear the converfation held by one of the cheats with the ghoft. It ended in full detec- tion and exemplary puniQiment of the feveral perfons concerned in the villainy. SMITHFIELD is celebrated on feveral accounts : at prefent, and SMITHFIELD. long fmce, for being the great market for cattle of all kinds. For BARTHOI.OMEW-- being the place where Bartholomew-fair was kept; which was FAIR. granted, during three days annually, by Henry II. to the neighbor- ing priory.. It was long a feafon of great feftivity j theatrical per- formances by the better actors were exhibited here, and it was frequented by a great deal of good company j bur, becoming the refort of the debauched of all denominations, certain regulations^ took place, which in later days have fpoiled the mirth, but pro- duced the defired decency. The humours of this place will, never be loft, as long as the inimitable print of Bartholomew-fair, of our Hogarth^ fhall exift. Foil 174 S M I T H F I E L PLACE FOR TOURNAMENTS FOR TRIALS BT FOR a long feries of reigns, Smithfield was the field of gallant tilts and tournaments : and alfo the fpot on which accufations were decided by duel, derived from the Kamp-fight ordeal of the Saxons. Here, in 1374, the doating hero Edward III. in his fixty-fecond year, infatuated by the charms of Alice Pierce, placed her by his fide in a magnificent car, and, ftyling her the Lady of the Sun, c6nduc~t.ed her to the lifts, followed by a train of knights, each leading by the bridle a beautiful palfrey, mounted by a gay damfel : and for feven days together exhibited the moft fplendid jufts in indulgence of his difgraceful paffion. His grandfon, Richard II. in the fame place held a tourna- ment equally magnificent. " There ifiued out of the ^owre of " London" fays the admiring Froijfart, " fyrft threefcore courfers juft before his death, touched with remorfe, granted the convent and church to the city, and caufed the church to be opened for divine fervice. It was burnt in 1666, and rebuilt by Sir Cbriftopher Wren> at a fmall diftance from its former fite. I muft mention, that with the old church was deftroyed the tomb of lady Venetia, THE buildings belonging to the friars were by Edward VI, * HolinJbeJ, 703. f S/ew's dnnals, 517. t My Journey to London, 335. The tomb is engraven in the Antiquaries Repofuory. applied ,8 4 ITS PRESENT STATE. applied to this ufeful charity : that amiable young prince had not any reafon to be ftimulated to good actions : but it is certain that, after a fermon of exhortation, preached before him by Ridley, bifhop of London, he founded three great hofpitals in this city, judicioufly adapted to the neceflkies of the poor, divided into three claffes : the hofpital of St. Thomas, Southwark, for the firk or wounded poor ; this for the orphan ; and that of Bridewell for the thrifdefs. Charles II. founded alfo here a mathematical fchool for the inftruction of forty boys, and training them up for the fea. Many able mathematicians and feamen have fprung from this inftitution. In the laft year, a hundred and fixty-eight were apprenticed out j of which nine were from the laft -mentioned inftitution. The governors have a feminary to this hofpital at Hertford. At London and at Hertford are nine hundred and eighty- two children. PART of the old buildings and cloifter are yet remaining ; but the greater part was rebuilt in the laft century, under the direction of Sir Cbriftopher Wren. The writing fchool was founded in 1694, by Sir John Moor, alderman, who is honored with a ftatue in front of the building. GREAT HALL. I N the great hall is a fine picture of Charles II. in his robes, with a great flowing black wig. At a diftance is a fea view with Shipping : and about him a globe, jfphere, telefcope, &c. It was painted by Lely, in 1662. HERE is the longeft picture I ever faw. King James II. amidft his courtiers, receiving the prefident of this hofpital, feveral of the governors, and numbers of the children, all kneeling; one of the governors with a grey head, and fome of the heads of the children, arc admirably painted. Chancellor Jeffiries is (landing by the king. PICTURES. 185 king. This was painted by Verrio, who has placed himfelf in the piece, in a long wig. THE founder is reprefented in another picture fitting, and giv- ing the charter to the governors, who are in their red gowns kneeling j the boys and girls are ranged in two rows , a bifhop, pofiibly Ridley ', is in the piece. If this was the work of Holbein^ it has certainly been much injured by repair. IN the court-room is a three-quarters length of Edward ', a mod beautiful portrait, indifputably by the hand of that great painter. The figure is moft richly drefled, with one of his hands upon a dagger. IN this room are 'the portraits of two perfons. of uncommon merit. The firft is of Sir Wolftan Dixie, lord mayor in 1585. He is reprefented in a red gown furred, a rich chain, and with a rough beard. The date on his portrait is 1593. He was de- fcended from Wolftan Dixie, who was feated at Catwortb, in Hun- tingdon/hire, about the reign of Edward III. Sir Wolftan was the founder of the family of baronets, fettled at Market -Bofworth, in Leicefterjhire, which was beftowed by him on his great nephew in the reign of queen Elizabeth *. Sir Wolftan was diftinguiflied by the magnificent pageantry of his mayor's day ; and by the poetical incenfe beftowed on the occafion by George Peek, A. M. of Chrift-cburch College, Oxford : who, among other things, wrote the life of our laft prince Llewelyn, the loves of king David and the fair Bathjheba, and the tragedy of Abfalom j-. But Sir Wolftan immortalized himfelf by his good deeds, and the greatnefs of his ' Collins* s Baronets, iii. 103. f WcocTt Athene Oxon. i. 300. B b charities. i86 EXTENSIVE CHARITIES. charities. At Bofivortb he founded a free-fchool j every prifon in 5 the capital felt his bounty j he portioned poor maidens in mar- riage j contributed largely to build a peft-houfe ; eilablifhed two fellowfhips in Emanuel College, Cambridge, and two fcholarlhips ; and left to this hospital an annual endowment of forty-two pounds for ever. BUT a lady, dame Mary Ramfay, wife of Sir Thomas Ramfay,. lord mayor in 1577, greatly furpaffed Sir Wolftan in her chari- table deeds. By the gift of twenty pounds a year, to be annually paid to the matter and ufher of the fchool belonging to this hof- pital j and alfo to the hofpital the reverfion of a hundred and twenty pounds annually. She was complimented with having her picture placed in this room. She is drefied in a red-bodied gown and petticoat. She augmented fellowfhips and fcholarfhips ; cloathed ten maimed foldiers, at the expence of twenty pounds annually ; fhe did not forget the prifoners in the feveral gaols ; fhe gave the fum of twelve hundred pounds to five of the compa- nies, to be lent to young tradefmen for four years ; fhe gave to Brijtol a thoufand pounds, to be laid out in an hofpital ; fhe mar- ried and portioned poor virgins ; and, befides other charities I omit, left three thoufand pounds to good and pious ufes. This excellent woman died about the year 1596, and was interred in the church of St. Mary Woolnoth *. CHARTER- I N tn ' s fquare, at the time called the Cbarter-boufe Tard, was a HousE-S ii. 25. cent > c R uio.8 of ClerfcenweH CliitrcL PRIORY OF ST. JOHN OF JERUSALEM. 191 cent proof of his refpect to the univerfity in which he had moft honorably prefided, as warden of the College of All Souls. HERE is a three-quarters piece of Doctor Thomas Burnet, mailer of this houfe, highly celebrated for his learning, and equally fo for the fpirit with which he refilled the obtrufion of a Reman catholic into the office by James II. He was the author of the famous Sacred Theory of the Earth, a beautiful and eloquent philofo- phical romance : and of the Archaelogia Philofophica. This laft fubjefted him to fuch cenfure, for the fceptical opinions it con- tained, as to prevent his farther preferment. He died in 1715. He is reprefented as a thin man, of a good countenance, in a black gown, and Ihort hair. THE hero William earl Craven is the laft; a full-length, in ar- mour, with a truncheon 9 and a diftant view of a camp. THESE noblemen had all been governors of this great charity. IMMEDIATELY beyond the Charter-houfe, ftood the priory of PRIORY OF St. John of Jerufakm, of the warlike order of the knights hofpi- ^ T - J OHN 0|r ' JERUSALEM. talers. After the taking of Jerttfalem from the Saracens, there was a vaft concourfe of pilgrims to the holy fepulchre. A pious man of the name of Gerardus, afibciating with other perfons of his religious turn, aflfumed a black garment, with a white crofs pn it, with eight fpikes j and undertook the care of an hofpital, before founded at Jerufalem, for the ufe of the pilgrims ; and alfb to protect them from infults on the road, either in coming or re- turning. Godfrey of Bologne firft inftituted the order; and, in reward of the valour of Gerardus y at the battle of AJcahn, en- dowed the knights with great eftates, to enable them to fupport the end of their order : the kings of France were the fovereigns. After the lofs of Jerufalem> they retired from place to place ; but, 5 having i 9 2 HISTORY OF THE PRIORY. having taken Rhodes, fixed there, and were then ftyled knights of Rhodes. But, in 1522, on the lofs of that ifland, they retreated to Malta, and were afterwards known by the name of knights of Malta. The order, before the fcparation of England from the church of Rome, confifted of eight nations. The world is filled with their prodigious valour. JORDAN BRISET, and Muriel his wife, perfons of rank, founded this houfe in the year 1 100, and it received confecration from Herac/ius, patriarch of Jerujalem. This order at firft ftyled itfelf fervant to the poor fervants of the hofpital at Jerujalem ; but their vaft endowments infected them with an uncommon degree of pride. The whole order had, in different parts of Chriftendom, nineteen thoufand manors. In 1323, the revenues of the EngHJh knights templars were beftowed on them. This gave them fuch importance, that the prior was ranked as firft baron of England, and lived in the higheft ftate. Their luxury gave offence to the rebels of Kent and Effex, in 1381. Thefe levellers burnt their houfe to the ground ; but it foon rofe with double fplendor. The firft prior was Garner'ms de Neapoli -, the laft, Sir William Wejlon, who, on the fuppreflion by Henry VIII. had a penfion of a thou- fand a year; but died on Afcenjwn-day\ 1540, the very day that .the houfe was fupprefled *, entirely of a broken heart. His monument is preferved by a drawing in the collection of Doctor Combes. His figure lay recumbent, beneath rich gotbic arches. It had a long beard, and is reprefented greatly emaciated. Its revenue at that time, according to Dugdale, was /. 2,385. NeiKcourt, i. 668_ THE S e : lolm's Gate 193. THE C H U R C H. THE houfe and church remained entire during the reign of Henry, for he chofe to keep in them his tenrs and toils for the chace. In that of his fon, the church, which for the beauty of its tower (which was graven, gilt, and enameled) was blown up with gunpowder, by order of the protector Somerfet, and the ftones carried towards the building his palace in the Strand. In the next reign, a part of the choir which remained, and fome fide-chapels, were repaired by cardinal Pole, and Sir 'Thomas Trejham was ap- pointed lord prior * : but the restoration was fhort-lived, being again fupprefied .by Elizabeth. THE buildings covered a great extent of ground : and are now occupied by St. John* s-fquare. The magnificent gateway dill remains; James I. made a grant of it to Sir Roger Wilbraham, who made it his habitation. AYLESBURY-HOUSE and gardens were other parts of the pof- feffions of thofe knights. They were granted to the Bruces, earls of Aylejbury ; who made the houfe their refidence. Earl Robert, deputy earl-marfhal, dates numbers of his letters, in 1671, from Aylejbury -houfe, Clerkenwell. Aylejbury -ftr set now covers the fite of the houfe and gardens. THE fame Jordan Brifet, not fatisfied with the former great en- dowment, gave to one Robert, a prieft, fourteen acres of land almoft adjoining to the firft, to build on them a religious houfe. He accordingly founded one to the honor of God and the aflump- tion of our lady, which he filled with Black Nuns of the order of St. Benedict. The firll priorefs was Chriftina j the laft, IJabella Sackville, of the family of the prefent duke of Dorfet. She ap- 193 ST. JAMES'S CLERKENWELL. BENEDICTINE NUNS. * Mr. Brooke, Somerfet Herald. Cc pointed i 94 PARISH-CLERKS EXHIBITIONS. pointed her coufin, lord Bnckhurft y executor of her will, made ] clrnary \^\\\ 1569, if his lordfhip would undertake the trouble. She was buried in the conventual church ; a Irnall brafs plate informs us fhe died in the reign of queen Elizabeth. SIR Thomas Chaloner, tutor to prince Henry, built a fine houfe in the clofe of the priory, and on it infcribed thefe apt verfes, Cafta fides fupereft, velatae te&a forores Ida relegatae deferuere licet : Nam venerandus Hymen hie vota jugalia fervat, Veftalexque forum mente fovere fludet*. THE church was made parochial. Part of the cloifters re- main, at left till very lately, as did part of the nun's hall. In PARISH CLERKS very antient records it was ftyled, Ecclefia Beat* Marine de fonts OUR ANTIENT CleHcorum, from a well near it, at which the parifh-clerks of Lon- don were accuftomed to meet annually to perform their myfteries, or facred dramatical plays. In 1391, they performed before the king and queen, and whole court, three days fuccefllvely. Thefe amufements, with much more fubftantial peace-offerings, "were prefcnted to Richard, to divert his refentment againft the good citizens, for a riot of no very great moment againft the bifhop of Saltfbury\. And in 1409, they performed the creation of the world, which lafted eight days; and moft of the nobility and gentry of England honored them with their prefence. But to re- turn to the church. Befides the venerable priorefs, here was in- terred the lord prior of the knights hofpitalers above-mentioned, * Fuller's Church Hiftory, book vi. 27!. t Holinjhtd, 478. 4 Sir MONUMENTS. , 95 Sir William Wefton> who lies under a tomb, beneath an arch of neat gothi^ work. The brafs is loft, but there is ftill his effigies reprefented in his fhroud, emaciated by death ; but admirably cut in flone. Werner preferves part of his epitaph ; but it gives us nothing hiftorical *. That great collector of funeral monuments and infcriptions lies here himfelf. He died in 1634 f, aged 56, and left his own quaint epitaph : Lankajhire gave me birth, and Cambridge education, Middlefex gave me death, and this church my humation ; And CHRIST to me hath given, A place with him in heaven. I SHALL conclude, with having obferved here the plain monu- ment of Gilbert Burnet, bilhop of Salt/bury. His literary merits and demerits have been fo fully difcufled, that I rather chufe to refer the readers to the writers who have undertaken the tafk. Let his excellent difcharge of his epifcopal function, expiate the errors, which his enemies, of each party, fo liberally impute to him. Now I am on the outfide of the church again, let me, in this revival of archery, direct the attention of the brethren and fifters of the bow to the epitaph of Sir William Wood, a celebrated archer, who died in 1691, set. 82. May their longevity equal his ! but when they have made their laft fhot, I hope that the Royal Britijh BOWMEN have provided an abler bard, to celebrate their fkill, than fell to the lot of poor William Wood J. Funeral Monuments, 430. f Fuller's Worthies, i 1 7. J Stew, ii. book ir. 67. C c 2 CLOSE 196 C ROM WELL'S HOUSE. CLOSE to Clerkenwell-green ftands Albemarle, or Newcaftle- boufe; the property and refidence of the mad dutchefs, and widow of the fecond duke of Albemarh, and laft furviving daughter and coheirefs of Cavendijh duke of Newcaftle, who died here in 1734. At p. 164 fome account is given of this lady. The houfe is en- tire, and at prefent occupied by a cabinet-maker. In the garden is the entire fide of the cloifter of the nunnery, and part of the wall, and a door belonging to the nuns hall. Scattered over the ground are the remains of the antient monuments of Sir Richard Weftoriy and others, fhamefully ruined, being flung here during the rebuilding of the church. O OPPOSITE to this houfe is another, very large, afcended to by a long flight of fteps. It is now divided into three houfes. It is called Oliver Cromwell's; and tradition fays, it was his place of conference with Ireton, Brad/haw, and others. If it had been his refidence, it probably was ufurped from fome of the loyalifts, and made his manfion, before he attained his fullnefs of power, and lived in regal ftate at Whitehall. NEW RIVER j n t h e fj c id s> at a fmall diftance from C!erkenwcll t \s the New River Head, the great repofitory which fupplies the largeft por- tion of our capital with water. To give a greater extent of fervice, of late years another refervoir has, been made on the heights, at a little diftance to the north of the former. This is fupplied with water from the firft by means of an engine, which is worked by horfes, forcing the water up the afcent ; from hence it ftreams down to places which the other had not the power of benefiting. Thefe refervoirs may be called the HEART of the work. The element, eflentially ufeful as the vital fluid, at firft ruihes through veins of vaft diameter - t divides into lefler ; and again THE NEW RIVER. 197 again into thoufands of ramifications, which fupport the life of this moft populous city. No one ought to be ignorant that this unfpeakable benefit is owing to a WELSHMAN ! Sir HUGH MIDDELTON, of Denbigh ; who, on September 2Oth, 1608, began, and on September 29th,, 1613, completed the great work. He brought the water from Amwell, in Hertfordjhire> a diftance of twenty, but, from the ne- ceflity of making a detour to avoid hills and vallies, it was increaf- ed to thirty-eight miles three-quarters and fixteen poles. Yet it was impofiible to efcape difficulties. His daring fpirit penetrated the hills in feveral places : and carried the river over two vallies. Over one it extended fix hundred and fixty feet in length, and thirty in height : and over another, four hundred and fixty-two feet in length. The original fource of this river was, by the vaft increafe of London, found inadequate to its wants. The New River company found it necefiary to have recourfe to another fupply. They applied to parlement for powers to obtain it from the river Lee, the property of the city. London oppofed the bene- fit intended its inhabitants -, but in vain, parlement wifely deter- mined againft their objections : fo the blefling was forced upon them ! and the river Lee fupplies the greater part of the wants of the city. Sir HUGH^MIDDELTON was ruined by the execution of his project. So little was the benefit underftood, that, for above thirty years, the feventy-two fliares, it was divided into, lhared only five pounds apiece. Each of thefe fhares was fold originally for a hundred pounds. Within this twelvemonth they were fold at nine thoufand pounds a fhare j and lately at ten thou- jand : and are increafing, becaufe their profits increafe, on which their dividends are grounded. Half of the feventy-two lhares are i 9 t ST. DUNSTAN. arc called king's {hares, and are in lefs eftimation than the others, becaufe fubject to a grant of five hundred pounds a year, made fo long ago as the reign of James I. when the water was firft brought to London, or foon after. I NOW defcend to the Temple, and refume my journey along Fleet-ftreet, as far as the fouthern extremity of the walls of London, the antient precinfb j to follow them to their oppofite end near the Tower j to defcribe their neighboring fuburbs, and the parts of the city bordering on their interior fides. Thefe, with the city itfelf, lhall form the final con fide ration, together with the fuburbs which point to Blackwall, and form a ftreet of amazing extent. ST. DUNSTAN'S JUST beyond the entrance into Chancery -lane, is St. Dunftan*& church. The faint to whom it was dedicated was a perfon of great ingenuity ; and excelled in painting, engraving, and mufic. From the following lines it appears that he was the inventor of the Molian harp : St. Dun/lan's harp faft by the wall. Upon a pin did hang a, The harp itfelf, with ly and all, Untouch'd by hand did twang a *. For this he was reprefented to king Athelftan as a conjuror. He was an excellent workman in brafs and iron. It was when thus employed at his forge, that he feized the devil by the nofe with the red-hot tongs, till he roared again. The daemon had vifited him in a female form, and fuffered for intruding on this woman- hating faint. * New View of London, i. a 13. His SERJEANT'S-INN, FLEET-STREET. 199 His church is probably of very antient foundation : yet the firft mention of it is in 1237, when the abbot and convtnt of Weftminfter beftowed it on Henry III ; who beftowed the profits on the Domus Converforum, or the houfe for converted Jews. The two figures of favages on the outfide of the clock, ftriking the quarters with their clubs, were fet up in 1671, and are much admired by the gaping populace. NEXT to the Temple, is another Serjeant' s-Inn, deflined, origi- nally, for the fame purpofe as that in Chancery-lane. And nearer to the Thames , a little eaft of the Kings-bench Walks, flood the WHITE FRIARS. church and convent of Carmelites, or White Friars ; founded in 1241, by Sir Richard Grey, anceftor of the lord Greys of Codnor. Edward I. beftowed on them more ground, that they might en- large their buildings. The order originated from the hermits of Mount Carmel, who inhabited the mountain which Ellas and Elifeus inhabited. On the diflblution its revenues were . 63. is. Afd. Part of the houfe was granted by Henry to Richard Morejque ; and the chapter-houfe, and other parts, to his phyfician William Butts, immortalized b.y' Shakejpear. Edward VI. be- ftowed the houfe inhabited by Doctor Butts, together with the church, to the bifhop of Worcefter, and his fuccefibrs. It was afterwards demolifhed, with all its tombs, and feveral houfes, in- habited in the reign "f Edvjard VI. by people of fafhion. That church was built by Sir Robert Knolles, a great warrior in the time of Edward III. and Richard II; who was honorably interred here in 1407. John Mow bray, carl of Nottingham, in 1382, in his youthful years. Elizabeth wife of Henry earl of Kent, who had wafted his fubftance by gaming. That noble family had for fomc sod BOLT-COURT. SALISBURY- COURT. DR. JOHNSON. fome time a houfe in the White Friars. John lord Gray, fon to Reginald lord Gray, of Wilton, in 1418 : and numbers of others of the common gentry. I MUST by no means omit Bolt-court, the long refidence of Doctor SAMUEL JOHNSON, a man of the ftrongeft natural abili- ties, great learning, a moft retentive memory, of the deepeft and mod unaffected piety and morality, mingled with thofe numerous weaknefles and prejudices which his friends have kindly taken care to draw from their dread abode. I brought on myfelf his tranfient anger, by obferving, that in his tour in Scotland he once had "long and woeful experience of oats being the food of men " in Scotland, as they were of horfes in England." It was a national reflection unworthy of him, and I fhot my bolt. In re- turn he gave me a tender hug *. Con amore, he alfo faid of me, 3"be dog is a Whig f. I admired the virtues of lord Rujfel, and pitied his fall. I fhould have been a Whig at the Revolution. There have been periods fince, in which I fliould have been, what I now am, a moderate Tory -, a fupporter, as far as my little influence extends, of a well-poifed balance between the crown and people : but, fhould the fcale preponderate againft the Salus populi, that moment may it be faid, The dog's a Whig ! FARTHER to the weft of White Friars, is Salt/bury -court, once the inn or city manfion of the bifhops of Salt/bury j afterwards of the Sackvilles : held at firft by a long leafe from the fee, and then * See Doflor JOHNSON'S Journey to the Weftern IJlands, p. 296 See hi* Diftionary, article Oafs and my Voyage to the Hebrides, firft edition. t Mr. Bo/wel's Journal, 268. changed ST. BRIDE'S CHURCH. 20 1 THEATRE- changed by bifhop Jewel, for a valuable confideration from that great family. It was fucceflively called Sackville-houfe, and Dor- Jet-houfe. The great lord Buckhurft, created by James I. earl of Dorfet, wrote here his Porrex and Ferrex, a tragedy, which was DORSET-HOUSE. performed at Whitehall, before queen Elizabeth. He was equally great as a ftatefman and author. Here alfo died two of his fuc- ceflbrs : the laft was the gallant earl (of whom lord Clarendon gives fo great a character) who retired here on the murder of his royal mafter, and never after quitted the place. THE houfe being pulled down, was fucceeded by other build- ings, among which was a magnificent theatre, built after the Reftoration, by Sir Chriftcpher Wren j in which the company of comedians, called the duke of Tork's fervants, performed under the patentee, Sir William Davenant. Here Betterton, and the beft actors of the time, entertained the public, till its tafle grew fo de- praved that the new manager, Doctor Davenant, was obliged to call in aid, mufic and rich fcenery, to fupport his houfe. THE church of St. Bride's, with its fine fteeple, built by the fame great architect, but loft in the various houfes of the ftreet, (lands farther on, on the fouth fide. It was dedicated to 6't. Brid- get ; whether fhe was Iri/h, or whether (he was Scotch j whether flic was maiden, or whether (he was wife, I will not dare to determine the conteft. Her church was originally fmall ; but, by the piety of William Finer, warden of the Fleet about the year 1480, was enlarged with a body and fide-ailes, and ornamented with grapes and vine-leaves, in allufion to his name. It was deftroyed by the great fire, and rebuilt foon after in its prefent form. NOT far from this church lived the famous printer, Wynkyn de D d Worde ST. BRTDE'I CHURCH. BRIDEWELL, A PALACE: BRIDEWELL. ARX PALATINA, IVorde, at his inn or houfe, the Faulcon\ but I find he enprynted his Frttyte of Tymes, in 1515, at the fygne of the fonne, in Fleet ftreet. NOT far from the Wbitt Friars^ near the weft fide of Fleet- ditch, was a well, dedicated to one of the St. Brides, or Bridgets. This gave name to the parifh-church, and the antient palace of Bridewell, which was honored with the refidence of feveral of our monarchs, even as early as king John. It was formed partly out of the remains of an antient caftle, the weftern Arx Palatina of the city, which flood near the little river Fleet, near to the Thames. In 1087, William the Conqueror gave many of the choiceft materials towards the rebuilding of St. Paul's cathedral, which had been deftroyed by fire. And Henry I. gave as many of the ftones, from the walls of the caftle-yard, as ferved to inclofe and form the gates, and precincT: of the church. Notwithftanding this, the dwelling remained, and became the refidence of feveral of our monarchs *. To this palace that arbitrary prince convened all the abbots, and other heads of religious houfes, Englijh and foreign, and fqueezed out of them a hundred thoufand pounds y in thofe days an enormous fum. From the Ciftercians, who would not own his fupremacy, not lefs than thirty-three thoufand* Henry VIII. rebuilt the palace, in amoft magnificent manner, for the reception of the emperor Charles V. who vifited England in 1522. After all the expence, the emperor lodged in Blatk Friars, and his fuite in the new palace; and a gallery of communication was flung over the ditch, and a pafiage cut through the city wall Sur>vaie, 116. Bugdedft St. Paul's, 6. into A HOUSE OF CORRECTION. into the emperor's apartments. The king often lodged here, particularly in 1529, when the queftion of his marriage with queen Catherine was agitated at Black Friars. It fell afterwards into decay, and was begged by the pious prelate Ridley, from Edward VI. to be converted to fome charitable purpofe. That of a houfe of correction was determined on, for vagabonds of each fex and all denominations. The firft time I vifited the place, there was not a fingle male prifoner, and about twenty female. They were confined on a ground-floor, and employed in beating of hemp. When the door was opened, by the keeper, they ran towards it like fo many hounds in kennel ; and prefented a moft moving fight : about twenty young creatures, the eldeft not ex- ceeding fixteen, many of them with angelic faces, diverted. of every angelic paflion ; and featured with impudence, impenitency, and profligacy; and cloathed in the filken tatters of fqualid finery. A magifterial ! a national opprobrium ! ! ! What a difad- vantageous contraft to the Spinbuis, in Amfterdam, where the con- fined fit under the eye of a matron fpinning or fewing, in plain and neat dreffes, provided by the public. No trace of their former lives appears in their countenances j a thorough reformation feems to have been effected, equally to the emolument and honor of the republic. This is alfo the place of confinement for dif- obedient and idle apprentices. They are kept leparate, in airy cells j and have an allotted tafk to be performed in a certain time. They, the men and women, are employed in beating hemp, pick- ing oakum, and packing of goods, and arc faid to earn their maintenance. B.UT Bridewell is not only a prifon for the diflblute, but a hof- D d 2 pital HOUSE OF CORRECTION* A HOVSE OP INDUSTRY. 204 COURT er JUSTICE. HALL. FINE PICTURE BY HOLBEIN. BRIDEWELL, A HOUSE OF INDUSTRY: pital for the education of the induftrious youth. Here twenty Arts matters (as they are fty led) confifting of decayed tradefmen, fuch as fhoemakers, taylors, flax-drefiers, and weavers, have houfes, and receive apprentices, who are inftructed in feveral trades ; the matters receiving the profit of their labors. After the boys have ferved their time with credit, they are payed ten pounds to begin the world with j and are entitled to the freedom of the city. They are drefled in blue, with a white hat. The procefiion of thefe, and the children of Chrift's Hofpital, on Eafter Monday and I'uejday, to St. Bride's church, affords to the humane the moft pleafing fpectacle, as it excites the reflection of the mul- titudes thus refcued from want, profligacy, and perdition. The number of vagrants, and other indigent and miferable people, received into this houfe the laft year, was feven hundred and fix- teen; many of whom had phyfic, and other relief, as their necef- fities required, at the expence of the hofpital. SOME of the original building yet remains ; as does the magni- ficent flight of antient ftairs, which leads to the prefent court of juftice, which is a handfome apartment. Contiguous to it is the room of punifhment ; but in our mild country, no other inftru- ment is to be feen in it but a large whipping flocks. This is faid to have been the place in which the fentence of divorce was pro- nounced againft the worthy princefs, which had been concluded on in the oppofite monaftery. THE hall opens into the court- room. Over the chimney is the celebrated portrait of Edward VI. by Holbein, reprefenting that monarch beftowing the charter of Bridewell, to Sir George Barnes* the lord mayor : by him is William earl of Pembroke, a great favorite PORTRAITS THEREIN. 205 favorite and diftinguifhed character; and Thomas Goodrich, bifhop of Ely, and lord chancellor of England: and in a corner is the head of the celebrated painter. There are doubts whether this picture was completed by Holbein ; for his death, and that of the ' king, very foon followed the folemnity it records. SIR William Withers, lord mayor of London , is painted, repre- fented on horfeback. He was prefident in 1741, and beftowed on this hofpital the iron gates and marble pavement. SIR William Turner, in long hair, furred robe, and gold chain ; the face very fine. This gentleman was lord mayor in 1669 ; a native of Kirk Leedham, in Torkfoire, and a mod liberal benefactor to his native place. He was painted by Mr. Beale, for Mr. Knotty 's, who prefented it to the governors of Bridewell. ANOTHER portrait, of Sir Robert Geoffry, with long wig, and furred robes, dated 1593. Two very fine. portraits, of Charles II. fitting, and James II. {landing, by Lely. Finally, a picture of Sling Jby Bethel, efq; lord mayor in 1756 3 the laft work of the painter Huafon. THE creek, called Fleet-ditch, had its entrance from the Thames FLEET-I>ITC^ immediately below Bridewell; and reached as far as Holborn- bridge, at the foot of Holborn-hill , and received into it the little river Fleet, Turnmill brook, and another called Oldbourn, which gave name to that vaft ftreet. The tide flowed up as high as He Horn-bridge, and brought up barges of confiderable burden. Over it were four ftone bridges, and on the fides extenfive quays and warehoufes. It was of fuch utility, that it was fcoured and kept open at vaft expence -, and, not later than 1 606, near twenty, eight thoufand pounds were expended for that purpofe. IK FLEET-DITCH. IN the performing of this work, at the depth of fifteen feet, were found feveral Roman utenfils j and a little deeper, a great quan- tity of Roman coins, in filver, copper; brafs, and other metals, but none in gold. At Holborn-bridge were found two brazen Lares, about four inches long; one a Bacchus, the other a Ceres. It is a probable conjecture that thefe were thrown in by the affrighted Remans, at the approach of the enraged Boadicia, who foon took ample revenge on her infuhing conquerors. Here were alfo found numbers of Saxon antiquities, fpurs, weapons, keys, feals, &c. j alfo medals, crofles, and crucifixes, which might likewiie have been flung in on occafion of fome alarm. THIS <:anal was afterwards neglected, and became a nufance; was filled up, and a fewer formed beneath to convey the water to the river. The fine market, which extends the whole length of the old ditch, rofe in its place in 1733; in which year an act was paffed to empower the lord mayor and citizens to fill up the ditch at their own expence, and to veft the fee-fimple of the ground in them and their fuccefibrs for ever. I recollect the prefent noble approach to Blackfriars-bridge, the well-built open- ing of CHATHAM-PLACE, a muddy and genuine ditch. This had been the mouth of the creek, which, as Stow informs us, in 1 307 was of depth and width fufficient " that ten or twelve fhips " navies at once, with merchandizes, were wont to come to the " aforefaid bridge ofFteete*." It mud be recollected, that at this period there were drawbridges upon London -bridge, through which (hips of a certain fize might pafs, and difcharge their car- goes in the mouth of the Fleet. * Survay of London, p. 15. THIS BLACKFRIARS -BRIDGE. aoy THIS end of Blackfriars-bridge now fills the filthy mouth of Fleet-ditch. This elegant ftru&ure was built after the defign of Mr. Robert Mylne. It confifts of nine arches, the center of which is a hundred feet wide. The whole length nine hundred and ninety-five feet $ the breadth of the carriage-way twenty-eight feet; of the two footways feven each. Over each pier is a recefs, an apology for the beautiful pairs of 'ionic pillars which fupport them. The effect of this fingular application of columns is beautiful from the rivjer. The equinoctial tides rife here to the heighth of eigh- teen or twenty feet. The firft ftone of this bridge was laid on Oftober 3Oth, 1760 ; and it was completed about the latter end of the year 1768 ; at the expence of . 152,840. 3^. lod*. The magnificent profpedt from the top is fo well defcribed in the Tottr through London f (a little book that no walker of tafte fhould be without) that I muft refer my reader to that judicious and pleafing compilation, to which I freely acknowlege my frequent obliga- tion. ON the eaft fide of Fleet-market, ftands the Fleet-frifon, for debtors, founded at left as early as the firft of Richard I. It was alfo the place of confinement for fuch who had incurred the difpleafure of that arbitrary court, the Star Chamber. This pri- fon became fuch a fcene of cruelty, that, in the year 1729, a moft benevolent fet of gentlemen, prototypes of the GOOD HOWARD, formed themfelves into a committee, to fearch into the horrors of the gloomy gaol. Unpitied, and unheard, where mifery moans, Where ficknefs pines, where third and hunger burns, BLACKFRIARS- BRIDGE. FLEET-PRISON, Mr. Nortbouk. f Printed for J, Wallis. And toft FLEET-PRISON, AND FLEET-MARRIAGES. And poor misfortune feels the lafh of vice, While in the land of liberty. The land Whofe every ftreet and public meeting glow With open freedom, little tyrants rag'd ; Snatch'd the lean morfel from the ftarving mouth ; Tore from cold wint'ry limbs the tatter'd weed ; Even robb'd them of the laft of comforts, fleep ; The free-born Briton to the dungeon chain'd, Or, as the luft of cruelty prevail'd, At pleafure mark'd him with inglorious ftripes ; And crufti'd out lives by fecret barbarous ways. THOMSON. All thefe barbarities were realized. The Houfe of Commons, the year preceding, had taken up the enquiries *; and found that Hug- gins, warden of the Fleet, and Eambridge t his deputy, and William Afton, turnkey, had exercifed moft fhocking cruelties. Thofe monfters were tried for the murder of five unhappy men, who died under the moft horrid treatment from them. Yet, notwith- ftanding the profecution was recommended from the throne, and conducted by the ableft lawyers, to the concern of all good men thefe wretches efcaped their merited punifhment f. PROFLIGATE ^ N wa ^' n g along the ftreet, in my youth, on the fide next to MARRIAGES. this prifon, I have often been tempted by the queftion, Sir, will you be fleajed to walk in and be married ? Along this moft lawlefs fpace was hung up the frequent fign of a male and female hand conjoined, with, Marriages performed within> written beneath. * See State Trials, vol. ix. page 107. f The fame, pages uz,. 145, 185, 203, 209, 218. For farther particulars refpefting this prifon, fee Mr. HOWARD on Prifons, oflavo, 177. A dirty COURSE OF THE CITY WALLS. 209 A dirty fellow invited you in. The parfon was feen walking be- fore his (hop j a fqualid profligate figure, clad in a tattered plaid night-gown, with a fiery face, and ready to couple you for a dram of gin, or roll of tobacco. Our great chancellor, lord HARD- WICK, put thefe demons to flight, and faved thoufands from the mifery and difgrace which would be entailed by thefe extempo- rary thoughtlefs unions. I SHALL now give a general view of the Walls, the antient de- Crrr WALLS. fence of the city; and of the town-ditch, a work of confiderable labor. In my progrefs I fliall point out whatfoever was remark- able in the adjacent fuburbs, or the parts within the city which border on the walls. There never was any alteration made in the courfe of this firft precinct, which was preferved through all fucceeding agesj and in every reparation or additional ftrength which was thought necefTary. Its direction was from the firft irregular. The Romans, as was frequently the cafe, confulted the neceflity of the ground*. It commenced at the Palatine-tower, ran in a ftrait line along the eminence of Ludgate-hill, and above Fleet-ditch, as far as Newgate-, then fuddenly was carried north- erly to a fpot a lirtle beyond Alderfgate, and at that place ran ftrait in a northern direction almoft to Cripf legate ; from whence it refumed a ftrait eaftern courfe as far as Bijhopfgate, in which a long remnant of the wall, ftill called London Wall, is to be feeru From Bi/hopfgate it afiumes a gentle curvature pointed to the Tower, over the fite of which it originally pafied, and pro- ba,bly finished in a Caftdlum in this, as it did in the weftern extre- mity. Another wall guarded the river, and ran the whole length EC of THE TOW N-D ITCH, of the fouth fide of the city, on the direction of the vaft ftreet called Thames-Jlreet. But all this I fhall particularize in my walk round the antient walls. TOWN-DITCH. I SHALL firft mention another confiderable addition to the ftrenth of thofe fortifications. The Town-ditch was a ftupendous piece of work, began in the reign of king John, in 121 1, by the Londoners themfelves, poflibly as a protection againft their own monarch; who, in refcntment to them, had juft removed the Ex- chequer to Northampton. It was two hundred feet broad, and extended, on the outfide of the walls, from Tower-ditch quite to Chrift's Hojpital. Notwithftanding the multitude of hands em- ployed, it was not finished in lefs than two years. It was filled with water, as is evident from the quantity of good fifli Stow in- forms us was taken in it *. The citizens for fome centuries were at great expence in cleanfing and keeping it open : but, after the laft attempt, in 1595, the work was given over, it became ftabld land, and was foon covered with buildings, THB weftern wall terminated near the river with a fort, which I apprehend to have been the caftle of Montfitchet, loon to be mentioned. ULACK FMARI. WITHIN the walls, oppofite to Bridewell, flood the great houfe of Black Friars, or Dominicans \ founded by the intereft and ex- hortations of Robert Kilwarby, archbilhop of Canterbury, about 1276; when Gregory Rock/ley, and the barons of London, pre- fented him with the ground. Edward I. and his queen Elianor became great benefactors j by the affiftance of whom, the arch- bifhop built the monaftery, and a large church richly ornamented. Survaie, i. p. 47. This HOUSE OF THE BLACK FRIARS. 211 This obtained every immunity which any religious houfe had. Its precinct was very large, had four gates, and contained numbers of (hops j the inhabitants of which were fubjecl: only to the king, the fuperior of the houfe, and their own juftices. It alfo became a fanftuary for debtors, and even malefactors ; a privilege which it preferved even long after the fupprefiion of religious houfes. To make way for this foundation, two lanes were pulled down, and part of the city wall ; which laft was rebuilt immediately by a charter granted by Edward I. for that purpofe. The cattle of CASTLE or Montfichet alfo fell a facrifke to this houfe. It was built by Gil- MONTFICHET. bert de Montfchet, a follower of the Conqueror : and, growing ruinous, by gift of the king the materials were ufed for the build- ing of the church, on the fite of this antient tower. The church became a fafliionable place of interment of people of rank; and to be buried in the habit of the order, was thought to be a fure pre- fervativc againft the attacks of the devil. Among other illuftri- ous perfonages was Hubert de Burgh, earl of Kent, and his wife Margaret, fitter to Alexander II. king of Scotland > the heart of queen Elianor , lord Fanhope j that patron of learning John 'Tip- toft, earl of Worcefter, beheaded in 1470 j James Touchet, earl of Audley, beheaded in 1497 ; Sir Thomas Brandon, knight of the Garter ; William Courteney, earl of Devon/hire -, and much other great and noble duft. IN the fame church were alfo held feveral parlements. The remarkable one of 1450, in the reign of Henry VI. was adjourned from Weftminfter to this place ; here the weak monarch vainly endeavoured to divert the ftorm raifed by his fubjects againft the favorite of his queen, William de la Pole, duke of Suffolk ; and by a poor expedient, a fimulated exile, drove him to inftant death. E e 3. HERE, fiI4 REMARKABLE TRANSACTIONS HERE, in 1524, Henry VIII. held another, in order to opprefs his fubjefts with an aid of eight hundred thoufand pounds, to carry on his imprudent wars. The virtue of the commons refitted the demand, and gave him only a moderate tax. This was called the Black parlement, as it began amongft the Black Monks y at tt'eftminjter ; and ended among the Black Friars. HERE cardinal Campeggio, and cardinal Wolfey, fat, in 1529, as judges and legates, on the queftion of divorce between Henry and the ill-fated princefs Catherine of Arragon, Henry and his queen at that time refiding in the palace of Bridewell^ ready to attend the farcical citations of that court. And in this place Wolfey him- fclf fell from all h ; .s greatnefs j for here began the parlement which gave the fentence of fremunire, the laft ftroke to all his profpe- rity. WITH all the great events which honored this houfe, its reve- nues, at the diflblution, were only one hundred pounds fifteen (hillings and five pence. Bifhop Ft/her held it in commendam; and in 15381 with fifteen brethren, furrendered it to the king. Edward VI. afterwards granted it to Sir 'Thomas Cawarden. IN the reign of queen Elizabeth , the Black Friars became a place much inhabited by people of fafhion. Among others, lord Herbeit, fon of William^ fourth earl of Worcefter y had a houfe here, which queen Elizabeth, in 1600, honored with herprefence, on occafion of his nuptials with the daughter and heireis of John lord RuJJely fon of Francis earl of Bedford. The queen was met at the water-fide by the bride, and carried to her houfe in a leftica by fix knights ; her majefty dined there, and fupped in the fame neighborhood, with lord Cobham ; where there was " a memora- " ble mafke of 8 ladies, and a flraunge dawnce new invented. " Their AT BLACK FRIARS. cf Their attire is this : each hath a fkirt of cloth of filver ; a rich <( waftcoat wrought with filkes, and gold and filver j a mantell " of carnacion tafFete, caft under the arme j and there haire loofe UN SESSIONS-HOUSE IN THE OLD BAILEY. OLD BAILKY. SURGEONS THIATR* ON the outfide of Ludgate, the ftreet called the Old Bailey runs parallel with the walls as far as Newgate. In this ftreet flood Sydney -loouje (at prefent occupied by a coach-maker) once the refidence of the Sydnies, till they removed to Leicefter-houfe*. TheSeffions-houfe, in which criminals of the county of Middlefex, and the whole capital, are tried, is a very elegant building, creeled within thefe few years. The entrance into the area is narrow, to prevent a fudden ingrefs of mob. Above ic is the figure of Juftice. Every precaution has been taken to keep the court airy, and to prevent the effect of the effluvia arifing from that dreadful dif- order the gaol-fever. The havoke it made in May, 1750, was a melancholy admonition to thofe interefted in every court of juf- tice. My refpected kinfman Sir Samuel Pennant, lord mayor; baron Clark; Sir 1'bomas Abney> judge of the common pleas j the under (heriff, fome of the counfel, and feveral of the jury, and of other perfons, died of this putrid diftemper. Several of thefe fatal accidents have happened in this kingdom, which makes the fur- prize the greater, that the neglect of the falutary precautions was continued till the time of this awakening call. MR. HOWARD has given us a view and plan of the great gaol of Newgate , as now rebuilt. Some of the defects of the old one are remedied : but this FRIEND TO MANKIND feems Hill to think it is not free from errors j and that, without great care, the prifoners are yet liable to the fatal fever, the refult of one of thofe errors f. BY a fort of fecond fight, the Surgeons Theatre was built near this court of conviction and Newgate, she concluding ftage * Mr. Brooke, Somerfet Herald, f State of Frifons, 410 edition, Of SURGEONS-HALL. NEWGATE. of the lives forfeited to the juftice of their country, feveral years before the fatal tree was removed from 'Tyburn to its prefent fite. It is a handfome building, ornamented with ionic pilafters ; and with a double flight of fieps to the firft floor. Beneath them is a door for the admiflion of the bodies of murderers, and other felons ; who, noxious in their lives, make a fort of reparation to their fellow-creatures, by becoming ufeful after death. THE new prifon, which retains the name of Newgate, from the gate which, till within thefe few years, formed a part of it, is immediately beyond the Sefiions-houfe : a mafly building, with an extenfive front of ruftic-work, with all the appearance of ftrength and fecurity. Yet, in the infamous riots of 1780, the felons confined even in the ilrongeft holds were releafed ; ftojies of two or three tons in weight, to which the doors of their cells were fattened, were raifed by that refiftlefs fpecies of crow, well- known to houfebreakers by the name of the Pigs-foot. Such was the violence of the fire, that the great iron bars of the win- dows were eaten through; and the adjacent (tones vitrified. THE gate ftood a little beyond this building: as a military way has been traced under it, there can be no doubt but there had been one during the time the city was poflefTed by the Romans : but the place had been made up, and no veftiges of it left. The gate, which fupplied its place, is fuppofed by Stow to have been erected between the years 1108 and 1128, \?\\zn Richard Beau- veyes, biihop of London, by enlarging the precincts of St. Paul s, had obftructed the ufual way under Ludgate, and made this new outlet neceflary. Mr. Howel fays, that the original name was Chamberlain- gate. It had been for ages a prifon, even as long as F f the NEWGATE ; WHEN BUILT, 218 NEW: CO M'P T E R, NEW COMPTER. NEWGATE- the year 1 2 1 8 j and for per" fo"hs of' rank, long before the Tower was ufed for that purpofe. Rcbert "Bahlpck, chancellor to Edward III, was fent there; where, fays Fabian^ he ended his days miftra- bly * : Sir Thomas Percie, lord Egr attend* and other people of diftiruflion, were committed to that .prifon in 1457. In i4*^> this .gate was rebuilt fey the executors of the famous Sir Richard , out of i ;s Iv- had allotted for works of cha- rity : his ftatue, with the cat, remained in a nich to its final demolition, on the rebuilding qf the prefent prium. It was de- ftrbyed in the fire of 1666, and rebuilt in its late form. It had one great arch, and one pofttrri for paiTetigers : and on each fide a half hexagon tower.. To the'norrh of Newgate, immediately, acrofs the ftreet (and, with the eaft end of St. 'Sepulchre's church, forming the entrance of Giltfpttr-ftreet} is lately built a yaft pile, of a proper ftrength ..r,d fimplicity, intended tofupply the place of one or both of the city prifons, called Compters. This, with the edifices juft mention- ed, form all together a fuperb, but melancholy group of public buildings ; and are a noble improvement of this fpot ; which, a few years ago, was much incumbered with a number of old houfes, interrupting the free courfe of the air, the view, and the jntercourfe of paflerigers. IN Newgate-ftreet, over the entrance m\.o Bagnio-court, is a fmall fculpture in. (lone of William Evans., gigantic porter to Charles I. and his diminutive fellow-fervant, Jeffiy Hitdfon,, dwarf to the fame monarch. It -was probably by his own confent that the lauer was put into the pocket of the giant, and drawn out by him Chr. vol. ii. part vii. 285. at Boar in Eat CLeap Sculpture on Romier AIlv A B A G N I O. * x at a mafque at court, to amaze and divert the fpe&ators*. lie had too much fpirit to fuffcr fuch an infult, from even a Gdiah : for little Jeffiy afterwards commanded, \vith much reputation, a troop of horfe in his majefty's fervice: and, in 1644, killed Mr. Crofts, in a duel j who had ventured to ridicule the irritable hero. Evans was feven feet and a half high. Hudjon only three feet nine inches. THE Bagnio in this court feems the nrft we had in our capital: BAGNIOS, a neat contrived building, fays -Strype, after the Turkifh falhion, for the purpofes of fweating and hot-ba:hing ; and much approved by the phyficians of the time. It probably was fomewhat of the nature of Dominicetti's plan. At length it became, befides, a fort of Hotel, or lodging-houfe, for any iliort fpace. This, and the Hummtims in Covent -garden, were the only houfes of the kind which fupportt d a fair character ; till Pero's, in St. Jame-s's-ftreet, was let up : fince which, the conveniency of Hotels, on the French model, is universally experienced. IN the wall of a houfe in Pannier-alley, in this, or rather B/ow- bladder-ftreet, is a figure in (lone of a naked boy, fitting onfome- thing like a pannier j and beneath is this infcription ; When you have fought the citty round, Yet ftill this is the higheft ground. The ftone has very much the appearance of an antient fepulchral one j and might have had the infcription cut on it to inform the public of the elevated fituation of the place, Fuller's Britifli Worthies. Wales, p. 54, F f 2 PIOUS ADMONITIONS TO CHURCH or THE church of Sf. Sepulchre, or the holy fepulchre, before-men- * B * tioned, (lands at a fmall diftance from the fite of the gate, on the north fide of Snow -bill. It was dedicated to the holy fepulchre at Jerusalem : but whether the original church, which was of a great fize, and long fince demolifhed, was of the form of that in Judea, is unknown. It was rebuilt in the reign of Henry VI. or Edward IV. '>am, chancellor of Normandy, who is mentioned as having been, buried in the church of the Cbartreux, was a great benefactor to this church. The famous captain John Smithy who perhaps under- went more romantic adventures, and deeds of ainm, than any. man who ever exifted, refted here, in 1631, from his turmoils. I refer to his hiftory for his wondrous acts of chivalry ; for the kindnefs he experienced among the forks, from the beauteous, lady Tragebyjanda ! the charitable lady Calamata ! and the blefled Pokabontas ! the great king of Virginia 's daughter. A SOLEMN exhortation was formerly given to the prifoners, appointed to die at Tyburn, in their way fpom Newgate. Mr. Robert Dow, merchant taylor, who died in 1612 j left 26 s. 8*K-KOUSE. THANET-HOUSI. is open and airy, and remarkable for the antiquity of feveral of its houfes. Lcndm-boufe, the refidence of the later bifhops of the diocefe, is now no more : its place is covered with the warehoufes of Mr. SeddoVy the greateft and moft elegant repofitory of goods in the article of the cabinet manufactory, in the world. Stow in- forms us it was once called Petre-boufe, having been the property of the lords Petre : an anceflor of theirs, Sir William Petre, who died in 1572, was a benefactor to the parifh of St. Botclpb, AlderJ- gate*, in which the family refided. I do not know the time when the family alienated the place, or when it became the refi- dence of the bifhops of London ; but fufpect that they occupied their palace near St. Paul's, till it was deftroyed in the great fire. London-houje has long fmce been fold, under the powers of an act of parlement: and the houfe in St. James* s-fquare (the prefcnt town-houfo of the bifhops of London) purchafcd for thar ufe. The laft tenant of London-boufe was, 1 think, old Rawlinfon, the nonjuring titular bifhop of London, who rented it. He died about twenty years ago - t and left his antiquities to the univerfity of Oxford. ALMOST oppofite to London-boufe, is 'Tbanet-boufe. It was firft called Dorcbefter-boufe, having been the refidence of the marquis of Dorchefter f . In after times the town feat of the fuftonsy earls of Thanet : a magnificent old houfe, built about the time of Charles I. It was hired or purchafed by the incendiary ftatefman lord Sbfift/bury, for the purpofe of living in the city, to inflame * Callings Pterage, vii. 32. Stow, i. book iii, 121. the OF THE NOBILITY. 223 the minds of the citizens j among whom he ufed to boaft he could raife ten thoufand brifk boys by the holding up of his finger. He attempted to get into the magiftracy , but, being difappointed in his views, and terrified at the apprehenfion of the detection of a confpiracy, he had entered into againft his prince, fled, in 1683, into Holland, where he foon died of the gout, heightened by rage, and fruftrated ambition *. This houfe, after undergoing various fortunes, in 1750 was converted into a lying- in hofpital; a* moft humane inftitution, fupported by voluntary contributions, which doth great honor to its patrons. IN this ftreet was alfo the town houfe of the Nevils, earls of WESTMOR.E-LANB Weft mor eland j a magnificent pile, now frittered into various tene- NORTHUMBER.- ments, but ftill keeps its name under that of Weftmoreland court. LANU HouSES - The other great northern family was lodged not far from hence, but within the walls, in a ftreet now called Bull- and- Mouth -ftreet ; the Perries, earls of Northumberland: but the bufinefs ofthofe potent peers was chiefly in the camp ; for they feldom vifued town but to brave the fovereign or the favorite. LAUDERDALE-HOUSE flood on the eaft fide of the northern end LAUDERDALE- of the ftreet. It was the town feat of the duke of La uderdale : HOUSE. but its place is now covered with the diftillery belonging to Meflrs .&/*and Waljh. * When he was in power, he urged the Dutch war with uncommon animo- fity ; and always concluded his fpeechcs with, Deltnda eft Carthago! When he fled into Holland, be was fo fearful of being given up, that he folicited to be made burgefs of Amfterdam, in order to fecure his perlon. The magiftrates con- ferred on him that privilege, with thefe remarkable words ; A nojlra CART HA- CINE ndndundeleta, SALUTEM ACCIPB ! THE BARBICAN, BfclDCEWATEft- House. SIGN OF THE BULL-AND-MOUTH. THE Bull-and- Mouth Inn, not far from the fite of the gate, mud not be parted by, on account of the wonderful perverfion of the name. It originally fignifies the mouth of Boulogne Harbour ; which grew into a popular fign after the coftly capture of that place by Henry VII. THE Barbican, which I mentioned, at page 9, as originally a Roman Specula, or watch-tower, lay a little to the north of this ftreet. It was an appendage to moft fortified places. The Saxons gave them the title of Burgh-kenning. They were efteemed fo important, that the cuftody was always committed to fome man of rank. This was entrufted to the care of Robert Ufford, earl of Suffolk, by Edward III. by the name of Safe-court-, which de- fended, by the marriage of Cecilia, one of his daughters, to Sir John Willcugbby, afterwards, lord Willoughby, of Parham. ]n the reign of queen Mary, it was pofiefled by Catherine, widow of Charles Brandon, duke of Suffolk, in her own right baronefs Wil- lougbby, of Erejby ; and then wife of 1'homas Bertie, anceftor of the duke of Ancafter : this lady, in her zeal againft popery, had dreflVd a dog in a rochet or furplice, ufed by bifhops j and, in affront to biftiop Gardiner, had named a dog after him *. This induced her and her liufband to quit their houfe at the Barbican^ and retire into foreign pats, till the danger was over. The man- fion was called Wiiloughby-houje, was of a great fize, and inhabited by her fon, who was called Peregrine, becaufe he happened to be born abroad during the flight of his parents. THE earls of Bridgewater had alfo a houfe in the Barbican, f Collim'} Petrage, ii. 3. called EVELYN'S STRICTURES ON THE FUEL. called after their title.. It was burnt down in 1675, Brackley, eldeft Ton of the then earl, and a younger brother, with their tutor, unfortunately perifhed in the flames. The fite is now called Bridgewater-fquare, or garden. It was in the laft century, at the time Newcaftle was befieged, celebrated for its orchards, productive of fuch quantities of fruits, fays Mr. EVELYN, as never were produced before or after that time. Mr. EVELYN attributes this to the decreafe of fmoke, refulting from the fcarcity of coal in the capital from that event* He inveighs with great indigna- tion at the increafe of that fpecies of fuel ; and at the introduction of fo many manufactories, productive of fmoke, which not only deformed our nobleft buildings with the footy tinge, but alfo, . / from the quantity of coal, brought on catarrhs, coughs, and con- fumptions, in a degree unknown in Paris, and other cities, who make ufe of wood only. His words are ftrong: " The city of " London," fays he, " refembles rather the face of mount ALtna, {< the court of Vulcan Stromboli, or the fuburbs of Hell, than an af- " fembly of rational creatures, and the imperial feat of our incom- " parable monarch *." The project of this good and able writer, of fupplying London with wood-fires, was certainly very humane : but, from the deftruction of the "woods even in his days, was as little feafible as it would be at prefent. GARTER-PLACE was another great houfe in this quarter. It had GARTER.PLACC, been built by Sir Thomas Writhe, or WtUbjUy, garter king at arms, and uncle to the firft earl of Southampton f. ST. ALB AN 's church, in Wood-ftreet, I mention on account of* * EVELYN'S Fumifugium, 18, 19, 21, 30.. f Howel's Londinopolis, 305. Gg i HEAD OF JAMBS V. HEDCROSS- STREET. ST. GILES'S, INDIGNITIES TO THE BODY OF JAMES V. its antiquity, having been founded in the time of king Atbelftan y or about 924. Stow relates, that Roman bricks were in his time to be feen mixed with the building *. Atbelftan had alfo a houfe near, which gave name to Adel-ftreet, or King Adel-ftreet, as it is called in old writings f. IN this, church, flung among Plebeian fculls, was the head of the unfortunate James V. of Scotland. His body, for a long time, had remained embalmed at the monaftery at Shene. After the diffolution, it was caft among fome rubbifh, where fome work- men wantonly cut off the headj which was taken by Toung> glazier to queen Elizabeth, who was ftruck with its fweetnefs, arifing from the embalming materials. He kept it for fome time at his houfe in Wood-ftreet j but at laft gave it to the fexton, to bury among other bones in the charnel-houfe J. Such is often the end of ambitious greatnefs. FROM the Barbican, Redcrojs-ftreet, one of the antient ftreets, points down towards Cripplegate. In it the mitred abbot of Ramfey had his town-houfe. It was afterward called Drury-boufe, from its having been in after-times the refidence of Sir Drue Drury. ON approaching Cripplegate, is the church of St. Egidius y St. Giles. That name always imports fomething of beggary : accord- ingly, this gate received its name from the number of cripples and beggars, with which it was haunted formerly. St. Giles was their patron > he was a noble Athenian, and of fo great charity as at i * Vol. i. book Hi. 76. j- Neivcourt, i. 236. 304. 2 length INTERMENTS IN CRIPPLEGATE CHURCH. 1*7 length to give away the very coat he wore on his back, which he beftowed on a Tick beggar ; who, no fooner put it on, but he was reftored to health. The fame legend relates alfo to St. Martin. He had in this very ftreet a fraternity, founded by Henry V. who built here, for its ufe, a handfome houfe. In the church reft from their labors fome of my brethren ; fuch as John Speedy the famous EngHJh hiftorian and topographer; and Robert Glover t Somerfet herald, an indefatigable fearcher of antiquities j and the zealous John Fox y the famous martyrologift. NOT far from this church, within the walls, in Monkwell-ftreet, (lands Barber Surgeons-hall ; which is efteemed one of the beft works of Inigo Jones. The theatre, for the operations, is ellipti- cal, and finely contrived. Since the feparation of the company of the furgeons from that of the barbers, the building is in a manner deferted. Originally the chirurgic art, and that of fhav- ing, went, in this city, hand in hand, as they do to this day in feveral parts of Europe. The barbers were firft incorporated by Edward IV. in 1461 j but, prior to that, they had been formed into a body by Thomas Moreftead, furgeon to Henry IV, V, and VI, who died in 1450: and the grant had been folicited by him, Jacques Fries, phyfician to Edward IV, and John Hobbes> his phyfician and furgeon : at length it was incorporated by that prince, and his brother Glocefter, in the name of St. Cojme and Damianus, brethren, phyficians, and martyrs. The company prof- pered for fome time, till, finding that numbers had crept in among them, lefs (killed in the lancet than the razor, from the want of power of examining into the fkill of the chirurgical members, they obtained a new charter from Henry VIII. in which both pro- feflions were united. A fine picture by Holbein, preferved in this G g 2 hall, JOHN SPEED. ROBERT GLOVE?. JOHN Fox. BARBER SUR- CfiONS-HALL. PICTURE B HOLBEIN. BARBER SURGEONS CHARTER. hall, commemorates the event. Henry , in all his bluffnefs of ma- jelly, is reprefented giving them their new charter : among them is Doctor Buffs, immortalized by Shakefpeare, in his play of Henry VIII. There are feventeen of the company reprefented. I refer to the Gentleman's Magazine, for ^pril, 1789, for their names. I may mention what the inquifitive author hath omitted j that John Cbambre, phyfician to Henry VIII. was in orders, and was dean of the royal chapel and college, adjoining to Weftmnfter- ball: and that 'Thomas Vycary, was a citizen of London, and fer- jeant furgeon to Henry VIII.* and the three fucceeding fove- reigns. Aylif is another, who had been fheriff of London^ and a merchant of Blackwell-balL I relate part of his ftory from his epitaph : In furgery brought up in youth, A knight here lieth dead ; A knight, and eke a furgeon, fuch As England feld hath bred. For which fo foveraigne gift of God, Wherein he did excell ; King Henry VIII. call'd him to court, Who lov'd him dearly well. King Edward, for his fervice fake, Bade him rife up a knight ; A name of praife, and ever iince He 'Sir John Ailife hight f. BY this charter, barbers were not to praftife furgery, farthef than drawing of teeth : and furgeons were ftridly prohibited from * Aikiif* Memoirs of Medicine, 50, . f Strype's Stow, i. book iii. p. 67. the THE TWO PROFESSIONS SEPARATED. the feat or craft of barbery, or fhaving. Ufe was to make both perfect. But by the year 1745, it having been difcovered, that the above arts were foreign to, and independent of each other, the barbers and the furgeons were, by aft of parlement, fepa- rated, and made diftinct corporations. It was very fit that an aflb- ciation, which was now become ludicrous, fhould be diflblved : our furgeons began at that period to rife into great fame. True it is, that pupils then went to Paris to improve in the art : at pre- fent, Europe looks up to our furgeons as on the fummit of the profeffion. IT will be curious to turn back from thefe times to thofe of Henry VIII. to compare the ftate of furgery : when at one time there were very few, as Gale tells us, worthy to be called furgeons. His account of thofe employed in the army is very humorous. " I remember," fays he, " when I was in the wars " at Muttrel (Montreuil) in the time of that mod famous prince " king Henry VIII. there was a great rabblement, that took on y the grievoufnefs of their wounds, or a by the lack of knowledge of the furgeons ; and we, according tct *jo STATE CtF SURGERY IN HENRY VIII'S TIME. " to our commandment, made fearch through all the camp ; and " found many of the fame good fellows, which took upon them ct the names of furgeons ; not only the names, but the wages alfo. " We afking of them whether they were furgeons or no, they " faid they were j we demanded with whom they were brought " up, and they, with lhamelefs faces, would anfwer, either with " one cunning man, or another, which was dead. Then we de- was an errant fen ; of which he gives the following account, in his defcription of the paftimes of the citizens, in his time; in which is given the aukward fubftitute of the Ikate. c And," fays the hiftorian, fe when that vaft lake, which waters MoORFIELUf. Doc-Housi. fttzjltfhn, Sec. tranflated by an Autiquary, 51, Hfc Here MOORCATE. BETHLEM, OR fiDLAM. MOORGATE. Here refided the Common Hunt, an officer, the fecond in rank among thofe who formed the Praetorian eftabliftiment : Mafler Sword-bearer alone took place of him : Mafler Common Hunt followed him, and was to wait for his lordlhip's commands, on Mondays, Wednejdays y Friday s y and Saturdays *. IT was, in the time of Edward TI. of fo little value, that the whole was let at the rent of four marks a year. It could only be paflld over on caufeways, raifed for the benefit of travellers. la 1414, Thomas Falconer, mayor, opened the poftern in the wall, called Moorgate, to give the citizens a paflfage into the country. He alfo began to drain this watery tract. In 1512, Roger Atch- ley, mayor, made further progrefs in the work f. Succeflive at- tempts brought the ground into the ftate we fee it at prefenc : rr.oft part of which, except the ftill-negle6ted Moorfields y is covered with ftreets. BETWEEN Bijhopfgate and Moorfields ftood the hofpital of*?/. Mary of Befhlem j founded by Simon Fitz-mary, fheriff of London, in 1247, for a prior, canons, brethren, and fitters, of a peculiar order j fubject to the vifitation of the bifhop of Eethlem. They were to be dreffed in a black habit, and diftinguiftied by a ftar on their breaft J. In 1403 moft of the houfes belonging to this hofpi- tal were alienated, and only the mafter left, who did not wear the habit of the order. It feems to have been inftituted for the recep- tion and cure of lunatics : and had dependent on it fome leffer houfes. Stow mentions one in St. Martin's in the Fields : but a * S/rype's S/aw, ii. book v. p. 163. and his Survaie, p. 960. f Dugdale on embanking, 73. \ Steven's Suppl. ii. 274, certain BETIILEM HOSPITAL. 235 certain king, difliking that pcrfons under fuch unhappy circum- fiances fhould be fo near the royal palace, caufed them to be re- moved to Betblem y without Bijbopfgate. In 1 5 23, Stephen Cen- trings, merchant-taylor, with great humanity left by will forty pounds towards the purchafing of this hofpital for the reception of lunatics. The mayor and commonalty had taken fome ftep to execute his defign : but in 1545 were prevented by the muni- ficence of their monarch, who beftowed it on the city of London^ when it was converted to the humane purpofe of receiving perfons laboring under this moft dreadful of maladies. At firft (the medical relief excepted) their expcnces were borne by their friends> or their parifhesi but this edifice being found too fmall, and growing ruinous, in 1675 the lord mayor and aldermen, remov- ing the fite to the prefent place, began the noble hofpital we now fee j and, great as it is, finifhed it in the next year, at the expencc of feventeen thoufand pounds. The front and wings extend five hundred and forty feet.; and make a magnificent appearance. It was built on the plan of the palace of the ^uillej-ies, at Paris. Louis XIV. was fo incenfed that his palace fhould be made the model for a lunatic hofpital, that it was faid, he ordered a plan of the palace of our monarch at St. James's to be taken, for offices of the vileft nature *. THE humanity of our nation, in 1734, was the caufe that two large wings were added for the reception of incurables, of which there were lately one hundred, in that terrible ftate, maintained within thefe walls. The whole number of diftracted people, ad- mitted in the laft year, was two hundred and twenty-eight ; cured * Hill account, &c. of Betblem Hofpital, published in 1783. H h a and 236 ST. LUKE'S HOSPITAL FOR LUNATICS. and difcharged, a hundred and eighty-nine ; buried, fourteen j remained under cure two hundred and eighty. OVER the gates are two capital figures, of raving and melan- choly Madnefs, the work of Cams Gabriel Gibber, the father of the admirable comedian and wit Colley Gibber. Pope fatirizes himfelf, when he makes thefe fine figures the mere vehicle of abufe on the fon, by calling them His brazen brainlefs brothers. ** But Colley Gibber, after very long-fuffering, took ample revenge, in a fhort but bitter Philippic againft our great poet j which touched his pride fo much as to contribute to bring him fpeedily to the grave. ST. LITRE'S OPPOSITE to Bethkm Hofpital, on the north fide of Mcorfclds, flood the hofpital of St. Luke, a long plain building, till of late appropriated to the fame purpofes, but totally independant of the former. It was founded on the humane confideration that Beth- lem was incapable of receiving all the miferable objects which were offered. Of late years, the patients were removed from the old hofpital, to a new one, erected under the fame name, in Old- fireet, on the plan of the former, extending in front three hundred and ninety-three feet. Since the firfl admifllon of patients, on July 3Oth, 1751, to the fame day 1787, three thoufand fix hun- dred and feventy-five have been admitted : of which fixteen hun- dred and fixty-eight have been difcharged cured : and twelve hundred and two uncured. The old hofpital is now pulled down, and replaced by a handfome row of houfes. By a very liberal regulation, uncured patients may be taken in again, on the pay- ment of five {hillings a week : fo that their friends may, if they plcafe, ARTILLERY GROUND. pleafe, try a fecond time the force of medicine on their unhappy relations or connections, THE parilh of Sf. Luke's was taken out of that of St. Giles's Cripplegate, by an act in his late majefty's reign. I mention it merely to direct the reader's attention to the fteeple of the new church, which terminates moft fingularly in a fluted obelifc. ON the weft fide of Moorfields is the Artillery Ground : a large ARTILLERY piece of .ground laid out for the purpofe of proving the artillery ; and for exercifing the military belonging to the city. It was ori- ginally in Bijhcpfgate-ftreet, where fome land belonging to the priory of St. Mary Spittle was ufed for the fame purpofe. Wil- liam, laft prior of this houfe, granted it, for three ninety-nine years, to the fraternity of artillery, or the gunners of the I'ower^ for the practice of great and fmall ordnance ; and was long called the Artillery Garden. This fociety was greatly patronifed by Henry VIII : his daughter Elizabeth favored it in a high degree; as became a princefs whofe dominions were threatened with per- petual invafion from her potent rival. The earl of Warwick (Am- broje Dudley) was mafter of the ordnance j under him, but more particularly under William Thomas, mafter gunner of the queen's Ihip the Victory y in 1584, the art was flung into fyftem. Thomas propofed to the council, that the charter granted to the Fraternity by Henry fhould be confirmed, and that the earl of Warwick fhould be governor ; and that a certain number of able gunners fhould be appointed to inftruct in the art, and that none Ihould be appointed to any of her majefty's fhips or forts, but whom they fhould approve. This plan was rejected : and the ground remained to the gunners of the Vower *. * Strype'f Slow, i. book ii. p. 96, 97. C I T Y M I L I T I A. ARTILLBRT IN 1585 a new military fociety arofe in the city j which, inthofe affrighted times, finding itfelf grievoufly harrafTed by continual mufters and exercifing of men, found a remedy in the gallant fpirit of feveral of the citizens. A number (among whom were many fkilful officers, who had ferved with credit abroad) formed themfelves into a reipe&able body of volunteers, exercifed them- felves, and trained others to the art of war. Within two years there were near three hundred merchants, and others, capable of training and teaching foldiers the management of their pieces, pikes, and halbards j to march, counter-march, and ring. They made a confiderable figure at the camp at Tilbury r , in the cele- brated year 1588. After that time, this ufeful difcipline was negleftedi but in 1610 it revived, and the volunteers became fb numerous as to amount in time to fix thoufand men. The old place of exercife being too fmall for the purpofe, they removed to the New Artillery Ground. In the year 1614, there was a gene- ral mufter j and the citizens, bravely furnifhed, under twenty cap- tains, made a moft creditable appearance. In 1622 they began to build on one fide an armoury, which is excellently fupplied. Charles II. when prince, and his brother James duke of Tork, entered into this company : and on the Reftoration the duke him- felf took the command, and called it his own company. The prefident, and other officers, confift of the leading perfons in the city : and one of the royal family is captain-general. It confifts of three hundred men. BESIDES this military force, the city has fix regiments of militia, commanded by gentlemen of the firft rank in the city : thefe are under a lieutenancy peculiar to London ; and are exercifed. IT was this body, then known by the name of the Trained- 5 bands, CAPTAIN SKIPPON. 239 lands, which decided the fate of the civil war of the laft century. On every occafion they behaved with the fpirit and perfeverance of the moft veteran troops. They were commanded by Skippon t captain of the Artillery Garden, who had ferved long in Holland ; and raifed himfelf from a common foldier to the rank of captain, and proved himfelf an excellent officer. From the fervice he had been in, he came over with full prejudice againft church and ftate, fo was greatly in the confidence of his party*. He was totally illiterate -, but his fpeeches to his foldiers had more weight in their ears than the fineft oratory. On marching to join the earl of EJJex, this was his fpeech : " Come, my boys, my brave^boys, " let us pray heartily, and fight heartily : I will run the fame for- ec tune and hazards with you. Remember the caufe is for GOD, " and for the defence of yourfelves, your wives, and children. " Come, my honeft brave boys, pray heartily and fight heartily, " and GOD will blefs you f." ON the back of Betblem hofpital is a long ftreet, called London LONDON WALL. Watt, from being bounded on the north by a long extent of the wall, in which are here and there a few traces of the Roman mafonry. A SMALL walk brought me to Bijhopfgate-ftreet Without. On DEVONSHIRE- the eaft fide is Dwoxjkire-fquare : the earls of Devon/hire had a town-houfe near the ftreet, which was called after their name. William, the fecond earl, died in it in 1628. It was originally built by Jafper Ft/her, a clerk in Chancery. Stow calls it a large and beautiful houfe, with gardens of pleafure, bowling-allies, and * Clarendon, ii. 380. f Wbitcloctfs MfffKrialt, 65, the 240 ST. MARY SPITTLE. the like. His vanity ruined him, and his houfe got the name of Fifher's Folly. It had a quick fucceffion of owners. It belonged to Mr. Cornwallis j to Sir Roger Manners ; and to Edward earl of Oxford, lord high chamberlain *, the fame who is recorded to have prefented to queen Elizabeth the firft perfumed gloves ever brought into England. Her majefty lodged in this houfe in one of her vifits to the city: probably when this gallant peer 'was owner. After him it fell to the Cavendijhes -, but that they refided in this neighborhood long before is to be fuppofed, as their an- ceftor, Thomas Cavendi/h,trez{urer of the exchequer to Henry VIII. interred his wife in St. Botolph's, the parifh church : and by will, dated April ijth, 1523, bequeaths a legacy towards its repairs f. NEAR it was another fair houfe, built by one of our nobility, lord John Potvlet ; I conjecture, an anceftor of the duke of Bolton. \ imagine him to have been the fecond marquis of Win- cbefter, before he came to his title. ST. MARY ON the eaft fide of the north end of this ftreet flood the priory SMTTLS. anc j hofpital of St. Mary Spittle ; founded, in 1197, by Walter Brune, fheriff of London, and Rojia his wife, for canons regular of the order of St. duguftine. It was noted for its pulpit crofs, at which a preacher was wont to preach a fermon confolidated out of four others, which had been preached at St. Paul's Crojs, on Good Friday, and the Monday, 'Tuefday, and Wednejday in Eajler week i and then to give a fermon of his own. At all which fer- mons the mayor and aldermen were to attend, drefled on each occafion in different colored robes. This cuftom continued till * St ST. BOTOLPH'S, ALDGATBr Aldgate. This is one of four dedicated, in London, to this favo- rite faint. In it is the vault of the Darcies, of the north j and the tomb of 'Thomas lord Darcie, knight of the Garter ; with his figure on it, reprefenting him afleep, with a fhroud wrapped round him j his face, bread, and arms naked. The figure is at prefent deformed by frefh painting, and the infcription rendered illegible. This nobleman, difliking the innovations in religious matters, took a fecret part in the infurredion called the Pilgrimage of grace : and, in conjunction with the archbifhop of Tork> was fuppoied to have civen up to AJke y chief of the malecontents, the caftle of PontefraRy on very frivolous pretences. He loft his head on fower-hill, in 1537, and was interred in this church. He had been in high favor with the kingj was entruft-ed by him, in 1510, with fifteen hundred archers, and four great (hips, to afiift Ferdi- nand againft the Moors of Africa -, but that monarch, having brought his defigns to fucceed to his wifh, difmified lord Darcie and his forces with rich rewards *. HERE alfo was buried another victim to- the unrelenting Henry y * Lord Herbert's life of Henrj VIII. p. J$ Sir 248 RIGID PUNISHMENTS. HOUSE OF JOHN STOW. WHITECHAPEL, "Sir Nicholas Care, his matter of the horfe, and knight of the Garter. This gentleman was charged with nothing more than of being of council with Kc/ny Courtney, marquis of Exeter, for the imaginary plot of depofitig his matter, and making cardinal Pols king in his ftead : for this, on March 3d, 1538, he fuffered on Tower-bill. By the inftru&ions of his ' keeper, he imbiBed the principles of the reformers, and dird profefling their religion. NEAR Aldgate lived and died the able hiftorian John Stow. He relates a cruel execution on a gibbet, erected on the pave- ment before his houfe, on the bailiff of Rumford, in the time of Edward VI. In that age there were moft barbarous and tyrannous punifhments, by martial law, againft all fpreaders of rumors. The times were turbulent, but (lighter penalties than death might have fufficed. The unhappy man, on the ladder, declared, in the prefence of our hiftorian, ' That he knew not for what offence he < was brought to die, " except for words by me fpoken yefter- " night to Sir Stephen, curate and preacher of this parifli ; which " were thefe. He afked me, What news in the countrey ? I Twr Gwyn, .or Twr y Bryn-g-wyn, was erected in the year 1078, when it arofe under the directions of the great military ar- chitect Gundulpb, bifhop of Rocbefter * ; who gave this noble fpe- cimen of innovation in the art of caftle-building, and which was purfued by him in the execution of Rocbefter- caftle, on the banks of the Medivay. Stow tells us, from Edmund de Haddenbam, that during the time Gundulpb was employed in this work, he was lodged in the houfe of one Edmere, a citizen of London f. This building was long dignified with the name of Cefar's tower j but that illuftrious invader probably never faw London : originally it flood by itfelf. Fitz/lephen gives it the name of Arx Palatina, the Palatine tower ; and fays, with his ufual romance, that the mortar of the foundation was tempered .with the blood of beafts. The comman'der had the title of Palatine beftowed on him, being, as was the cafe with feveral of the great men of that time, who had places of importance trufted to their care, endowed with * Guillelm. Pitfav, inter Script. Normann, p. 205. f Survaie, 73. regal MURDERS IN THE TOWER. regal powers j fuch, for example, as the earl palatine, Hugh Lupus, had in the county palatinate of Chefter *. WITHIN this tower is a very antient chapel, for the ufe of fuch of our kings and queens who wifhed to pay their devotion here. By Stow's defcription (for I never faw it) it feems coeval with the building : he defcribed it as having a long flight of fteps to it, as being darkfome, and venerable for the pillars, which are very plain ; but that it was in his time filled with our valuable old records f. IN 1092 a violent temped did great injury to the Tower ; but it was repaired by William Rufus, and his fuccefibr. The firft added another caftellated building on die fouth fide, between it and the Thames, which was afterwards called St. Thomas's Tower. Beneath that was Traitors-gate, through which ftate prifoners were brought from the river : and under another, properly enough called The Bloody i for, till thefe happier ages, there was little dif- ference between confinement, and the fcaffbld, or private aflafli- nation. Ye towers of Julius, London's laftlng fliame, With many a foul and midnight murder fed. HERE fell the meek ufurper Henry VI. by trie dagger of the profligate Ghucefter. Here, full of horrors, died, by the hands of hired ruffians, the unfteady Clarence. Here the fweet innocents Edward V. and his brother, duke of Tork, perilhed victims to the ambition of their remorfelefs uncle. And the empoifoning of Sir Lord Lyttehon's Hfnry II. iii. 139, f Strife's Stow, i. book i. p. 69. L 1 MURDERS WITHIM THI Ttomas 25* THE DITCH AND BULWARK. Thomas Overbury makes up the fum of the known murders, the reproaches of our antient fortrefs. We have here a ftrait room or dungeon, called, from the mifery the unhappy occupier of this very confined place endures, the Little Eafe. But this will appear a luxurious habitation, when compared with the inventions of the age of Louis XI. of France j with his iron cages, in which perfons of rank lay for whole years j or his Oubliettes^ dungeons made in form of reverfed cones, concealed with trap-doors, down which dropped the unhappy victims of the tyrant, brought there by Triftan rHermite, his companion and executioner in ordinary. Sometimes their fides were plain, fometimes fet with knives, or fharp-edged wheels; but in either cafe, they were true Oubliettes : the devoted were certain to fall into the land where all things were forgotten. THE 'Tower was firft inclofed by William Longcbamp, bifhop of Ely, and chancellor of England^ in the reign of Richard I. This haughty prelate having a quarrel with John, third brother to Ricbardy under pretence of guarding againft his defigns, fur- rounded the whole with walls embattled, and made on the out- DITCH. fide a vaft ditch, into which, in after times, the water from the Thames was introduced. Different princes added other works. The prefent contents, within the walls, are twelve acres and five rods i the circuit, on the outfide of the ditch, one rhoufand and fifty-two feet. It was again inclofed with a mud-wall by Henry III : this was placed at a diftance from the ditch, and occafioned the taking down of part of the city wall ; which was refented by the citizens ; who, pulling down this precinct of mud, were punifhed by the king with a fine of a thoufand marks. LIONS TOWER. EDWARD IV. built the Lions tower : it was originally called the 4 Bulwark $ ROYAL MENAGERY. Bulwark ; but received the former name from its ufe. A mena- ROYAL gery had very long been a piece of regal ftate j Henry I. had his at his manor of Woodjiock, where he kept lions, leopards, lynxes, porcupines, and feveral other uncommon beafts. They were afterwards removed to the Tower. Edward II. commanded the fheriffs of London, to pay the keepers of the king's leopards fix pence a day, for the fuftenance of the leopards ; and three half- pence a day for the diet of the keeper, out of the fee-farm of the city. I fhould have mentioned before, that Henry iflued his order to the fheriffs, to fupply four pence a day for the maintenance of his white bear ( urfo noftro albo), and his keeper, in the Tower of London. They were alfo to provide a muzzle, and an iron chain to hold the faid bear out of the water ; and a long cord to hold it during the time it was fifhing in the Thames: they were befides ordered to build a fmall houfe in the Tower for the king's ele- phant (elefantem noftrum) and to make provifion both for bead and keeper *. THE royal menagery is to this day exceedingly well fupplied. In April 1787, there was a leopard, of a quite unknown fpecies, brought from Bengal. It was wholly black, but the hair was marked, on the back, fides, and neck, with round clutters of fmall fpots, of a glofly and the moft intenfe black ; the tail hung feve- ral inches beyond the length of the legs, and was very full of hair. Here were alfo two tigers : one had been here fome time, and its ground-color had faded into a pale fickly fandinefs ; the other, young and vigorous, and almoft frefh from its native woods, was * Madox Antiq. Excheq. i, 376. LI 2 a6o TOWER-HILL: TOWER-HILL. THE FIRST PER- SON BEHEADED THE FORMER ROUGH TREAT- MENT OF PRISONERS. almoft of an orange color ; and its black ftripes, and the white parts, were mod pure in their kinds *. THE little book fold in the Tower, will give a very fatisfactory account of all its curiofities, natural and artificial. To that I refer my reader. FOR a confidcrable time, there was a difpute between the crown and the city, about the right to the Tower-bill (the Gwyn- fryn of the Weljh). In the reign of Edward IV. the king's offi- cers erected there a gallows, and a fcaffold for the execution of offenders. The citizens complained j and Edward immediately difavowed the act, by public proclamation. From that time the fatal apparatus is always provided by the city. The condemned are delivered to the fheriffs by the lieutenant, who receives from the former a receipt for their delivery j the fheriffs then fee execu- tion done, as in other places. THE firft whom I recollect to have fuffered here by the more honorable death of the ax, was in 1388, when Sir Simon de Burley, knight of the Garter, tutor of Richard II. and the mod accomplifhed man of his time, fell a victim to the malice of the potent faction, which had ufurped the regal authority. Queen Anne, the good queen Anne, went on her knees to the duke of Glocefter y the king's uncle, to implore mercy j and continued In that attitude three hours before the inexorable tyrant. THERE was, during a very long period, a barbarous meannefs, a fpecies of infult to the unhappy criminals, which is in our days happily changed into every fpecies of tendernefs and humanity,. Engraved and defcribed by M. de la Met her ie, dans le Journal de Phyfique, Juillet, i;S8, p. 45. tab, ii. confident PERSONS EXECUTED THERE. 261 confident with public juftice and fecurity. In revenge for the death of Sir Simon, and many others who fufifered in the fame caufe, the great earl of Arundel, Richard Fitzalan, was hurried inftantly from the place of trial, the palace at JVeftminfter, to 'Tower -bill : his arms and his hands were bound; and the king glut- ted his eyes with the bloody fcene. That great peer Thomas duke of Norfolk, who was confined here in the laft year of Henry VIII. was reduced to beg for fheets. He was to have loft his head, but was faved by the death of the tyrant on the very day ordered for his execution. He was kept in cuftody during the next Ihort reign, but was releafed on the accefilon of queen Mary. He mounted his horfe, at the edge of fourfcore, to affift in quelling the infurrection of Sir Thomas Wyat, in 1554. This ferved to fill the Tower with new fubjects for the mean infults of the times. Sir Thomas, and the reft of the prifoners, were brought into the Tower through the Traitors -gate. The lieutenant received them, one by one, with infults and grofs abufe. When Sir Thomas appeared, gallantly drefled, the lieutenant actually collared him : Sir Thomas gave him a fierce and reproachful look, bravely telling him, This is no mafterie now ! ONE peifon of rank fuffered here by the more infamous way of Si G the halter. I fhould not mention Sir Gervis Elwayes, lieutenant of the Tower, who fuffered here, in 1615, for his concern in the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury, but for the great inftruction which may be gathered from his end, and his excellent dying fpeech. For there is fomething very peculiar in his admonition to the fpectators, againft appealing to Heaven by a rafh vow; for, having been greatly addicted to gaming, he had faid feriouQy in his prayers, . CHAPEL OF THE TOWER: CHAPEL or THE TOWER. EXECUTED PERSONS BURIED THERE. FISHER, BISHOP OF ROCHESTER. prayers, Loral, let me be banged if ever I play more : and yet he broke it a thoufand times *. Of what utility would be a fenfible collection of thefe proofs of the FINGER OF GOD, exemplified to mankind in the detection and punifhment of every fpecies of crime ! THE church of St. Petrus ad Vincula, within the tfower, has been the undiftinguifhing repofitory of the headlefs bodies of numbers, who ended their days on the adjacent hill j or, when greatly favored, within the fortrefs. The antient church was much more fplendid, it being occafionally the place at which the kings of England performed their orifons. In Henry III.'s time here were flails for the king and queen ; a chancel dedicated to St. Peter, and another to St. Mary. The church was adorned with a fine crois, images of faints, and various paintings, bene & lonis coloribus. Alfo feveral holy figures in painted glafs ; all done by that early lover and patron of the arts in England, the monarch juft mentioned f. To the prefent church, after his execution, was finally removed the body of the confcientious amiable prelate Fi/her, bifhop of Rochefter j a viftim to his opinion of the pope's fupremacy, and the treachery of the attorney-general Rich, who, under pretence of confulting him, obtained his confidence, and betrayed him. The pope rewarded his orthodoxy with a cardinal's hat, but it did not arrive till the poor bilhop's head was on a pole on London- bridge. His headlefs corfe was removed, to be near that of his friend, who fuffered about three weeks after, in the fame caufe, the * See the whole in the firft xiv yeares of king Janet's reign, p. 150. f Strypit Stow, i. book i. 68. Mr. WAL POLE'S Anecdotes, i. 4. great EXECUTED PERSONS BURIED THERE. 263 SIR THOMAS Mo*. great Sir Thomas More. But his body did not long keep com- pany with that of his brother fuffcrer, nor his head on the bridge. His affectionate daughter, Margaret Roper, procured the one to be removed to Chelfea -, and the head, accidentally blown into the 'Thames, to be given to her. She kept it during life as a re- lique, and directed that after her death it fhould be lodged in her arms and buried with her. THE beauteous Anna Sullen, on May ipth, 1536, for a fiftiti- ANNA BULLEH. ous charge of adultery, by a tyrant lufting for a new object : and the profligate Catherine Howard, on a full conviction of the fame crime ; reft here. George lord Rochford, the innocent bro- ther of the former, involved in the accufation, preceded her to the grave by two days , as his infamous wife, a caufe of their death, accompanied, unpitied, her miftrefs Catherine Howard, in execution and in fepulchre. It is impoflible not to moralize on comparing the manner in which fhe was brought prifoner to this fatal fortrefs, with the gay and fplendid pageantry, which attended her and her favage fpoufe from Greenwich by water to the fame place, on May 29th, 1533; and from the Tower, two days after, with ftill greater magnificence, to her coronation. She rejoiced too publickly on the death of Catherine of Arragon, whofe place fhe moft wrongfully ufurped : in lefs than five months, fhe herfelf fell as a criminal *. THAT meteor Thomas Cromwel, earl of Effex, the great promo- ter of the fuppreflion of religious houfes, experienced the com- mon lot of the preceding. He fuffered, among other charges, * See a very curious account of the proceffions in the Antiquarian Repertory, ii. 202. for THOMAS CROM- EARL OF ESSEX. 26, EXECUTED PERSONS BURIED THOMAS SEYMOUR, 3.\RON SuDLEY. JOHN DUDLEY, DC- KB OF NOR- THUMBERLAND. ROBERT DEVE- EARL OF ESSEX. DBKE OF iWorf MOUTH. for being a favorer of heretics j yet died in the firm profefilon of the Catholic religion. THE turbulent 'Thomas Seymour, baron Sudley, and lord high admiral, in 1549 was beheaded, and buried in this church, by a warrant from his own brother, the protector Somerfet. On Janu- ary 24th, 1552, the protector himfelf mounted the fame fcaffold, and, aotwithftanding his high rank, was flung into the fame grave among the attainted herd: and his ambitious rival, the inftru- ment of his death, John Dudley, duke of Northumberland, loft his head and was laid by his fide, on the 22d of Auguft> 1553. So fhort, fo vain are the dreams of power and ambition ! THE favorite earl of Eflex, Robert Devereux, was reluctantly given to the block by his fond miftrefs, after a long ftruggle be- tween fear and affection. Mr. Watyole obferves, tha*- it was a faftiion to treat the paffion of that illuftrious princefs as a ro- mance. She, it is alleged, was fixty-eight, but it was forgotten that the earl was only thirty- four. Let their ages have been re- verfed, you would never have heard of the unhappy love of Eli~ zabeth. BENEATH the communion table repofes the handfome, reftlefs, ungrateful fon of Charles II. the duke of Monmouth. His ambi- tion, like that of many of thofe he followed to this place, occa- fioned his death. He is faid to have died calmly ; and to have acknowleged the guilt of rebellion : but love preferved her influ- ence to the laft moment. He was married very young, and for interefted motives. He had made a connection of the moft tender nature with lady Harriet Wentworth, who lived with him as his wife. He could not, with all the arguments of our beft divines, be convinced of the fin of adultery - t he called her the choice of his IN THE CHAPEL OF THE TOWER. C 6 5 his ripened years. I have been told a tradition, that lady Harriet had placed herfelf in a window, to take a laft and farewel look ; he was mafter enough of himfelf to make her a graceful bow. With more certainty can I fay, that the king, on the evening of the execution, vifited the widowed dutchefs, to give aflurance of his attention to her and her children. Confolation fhe did not want, for fhe had been feparated from him j and when, at the duke's earned requeft, fhe had an interview with him in the Tower, their interview was, as Barillon exprefles it, aigre de fart et d* autre *. THE repentant earl of Kilmarnock, and the rough and fearlefs g Art or lord Balmerino y avowing the goodnefs of his caufe to the laft, >ILMANOCK. were depofited \\&zAuguft i8th, 1746. The infcriptions on the leaden plates of their coffins are here fhewn to ftrangers. In the following year the infamous Simon lord Lovaf was interred in the fame ground, after mounting the fcaffbld with the intrepidity of innocence. He certainly was in his dotage, or, what is more pro- bable, loft to all fenfe of fhame for his immoral and moft aban- doned life, when he could repeat to the fpectators, Nam genus ct proavos, Be QUJE WON FEIMUS irsi, vixea noftra voco. BESIDES thefe headlefs trunks, numbers of good people lie SraRicnAi* here, who went to their eraves from their quiet beds. Among BLOUNT AN HIS SON them, Sir Richard Blount, and Sir Michael his fon, both lieute- nants of the Tower. Sir Richard died in 1564; Sir Michael in 1592 : a fplendid monument was creeled to each. They are re- prefented in armour, kneeling ; Sir Richard with his two fons, his Dalrjmf/f's Memoirs, ii. 168. M m wife, SIR. RICHARD CHOLMONDLY. TALBOT EDWARDS, KEEPER OF THE KING'S REGALIA. BLOOD'S ATTEMPT wife, and two daughters, in the drefs of the times j Sir Michael has a long beard, is attended by three fons in cloaks, his wife, and 7 daughter. IN a corner, on the floor, is an antient monument of a man re- cumbent, his hands clofed as in prayer, his hair lank, his chin beardlefs j his lady by him in a long hood j round his neck is a collar of SS. and a rofe pendent. This is to preferve the me- mory of Sir Richard Cbolmondfy, knight, lieutenant of the tfower- in the time of Henry VIII. I PASS over lefs interefting monuments, to the little ftone on the floor, which records, that " falbot Edwards, late keeper of his " majefty's regalia, 3Oth September, 1674, aged 80," was de- pofited here. Was it not a fhamelefs reign, no remembrance of this good and faithful fervant would have been fuffered to remain. This venerable man was keeper of the regalia, when the ruffian Blood made the notorious attempt on the crown, and other orna- ments of majefty. Never was a more determined villain : " with " a head to contrive, and heart to execute any wickednefs." BloQd contrived, under the guife of a clergyman, to make acquaint- ance with Mr. Edwards ; infinnated himfelf into his favor and 1 confidence. After various vifits, with the afliftance of feveral. ether aflbciates, he feized on the old man, whom he had requefted. to (hew the jewels to his friends, gagged him, and on his refitting,, ftruck him on the head with a mallet, and gave him feveral ftabs.. Edwards thought it prudent to counterfeit death. Blood put the- crown under his parfon's gown: another put the globe in his breeches : a third, not being able to conceal the fceptre by reafoa of its length, broke off the rich ruby and put it in his pocket- As foon as they were gone, Edivards forced out the gag, and gave the alarm ; they were inftantly purfued, and three of them foon TO STEAL THE CROWN. 267 foon taken. Blood ftruggled hard for his prize, faying, when it was wrefled from him, // was a gallant attempt y though unjucceff- ful; it was for a CROWN. THE curiofity of the king was excited to fee a man engaged in fb many important villanies : under pretence of obtaining difcove- ries, his majefty made the wretch a vifit > from that moment the artful Blood dated his fecurity : he told the king fo many plaufible tales ; fuch indifference he fhewed for his own life, fuch anxiety for that of his majefty (for he infmuated that his comrades would certainly revenge his death, even on his facred majefty) that in a fhort time he objpined his pardon. It was neceflary to apply to the duke of Ormond for permiflion, the ruffian having made the attempt on his grace's life not long before. The duke nobly an- fwered, " If his majefty could forgive him ftealing the crown, he " might eafily forgive the attempt upon his life; and if fuch was t( his majefty 's pleafure, that was a fufficient reafon for him, and <{ his lordlhip (the earl Q{ Arlington, who brought the meffage) " might fpare the reft." Blood was not only pardoned, but re- ceived into favor, had a penfion of five hundred a year, and was perpetually feen at court, enjoying the fmiles of majefty, and even fuccefsfully employing his intereft, as a mod refpeftablc patron. But all good men looked on him with horror, and con- fidered him as a Sicarius to a prdfligate fet of men, to overawe any who had integrity enough to refift the meafures of a moft profligate court. This mifcreant died peacefully in his bed, AH- guft 29th, 1680, fearlefsly, and without any figns of penitence; totally hardened and forfaken by Heaven. THE innocent Valbot Edwards, fo far from receiving the grate- ful reward of his fidelity and fufferings, got with great difficulty M m 2 a penfion LAWLESS EXECUTIONS. 1.AWI IIS EXECU- TIONS. ARCHBISHOP SUDBURV. JAMES LORD SAT* AND HIS SON-IN-LAW. a penfion of two hundred a year; and his fon, who was active in taking Blood, one hundred more : but the order for the penfions was fo long delayed, and the expences attending the cure of the good old man's wounds fo great, that he was forced to fell his order for a hundred pounds ready money, and the fon his for fifty. It is fingular that this aged man furvived his injuries feven years ; the attempt was made May 9th, 167 i, and the infcription, contrary to the afifcrtions of fome hiftorians, fixes his death in 1680 *. OTHERS have fallen, on this fatal hill, by the hands of lawlefs violence. In the rebellion of Wat 'Tyler, his mifcreant followers purfued, with unrelenting rage, the nobility and better rank of people. That worthy primate, Sudbury archbifhop of Canterbury ; Sir Robert Hales, treafurer of England - t and many others, took refuge with their youthful king in the 'Tower. It was then garri- foned with fix hundred armed men, and fix hundred archers -, who, appalled at the mob, flood motionlefs. The rebels feized on the primate 3 Sir Robert; John Legge, ferjeant at arms j and William dpfledore, the king's confeflbr j all of whom they inftantly be- headed on TOIV er-hill ; the archbifhop with peculiar circumftances of cruelty, being almoft hewn to pieces by their cruel rage. IN 1450, the mob under Jack Cade, in an endarkened and fa- vage period, forced out of this fortrefs James lord Say, whom the king had committed to appeafe the furious commons. They brought him to Guildhall, and from thence hurried him to the Standard in Cheapfide, where they ftruck off his head, tied his naked body to a horfe's tail, dragged it to Southwark, and there See the feveral accounts in Kennet, iii. 283 ~-Strypt't Stmu t \. book i. 92 i 96 Brit. Biography f article Blood. cut LAWLESS EXECUTIONS. 269 cut it into quarters. They then beheaded his fon-in-law, Sir Barnes Grower, placed the heads on poles, and in every ftreet made them kifs each other *. What a horrid parallel have we not feen in the late year, amidft the polifhed and enlightened FRENCH ! ! ! Two men of rank, M. de Foulon, and his fon-in-law M. Bertbier, were devoted as victims by the barbarous populace. They were firft hung, with a ftudied prolongation of their fuffer- ings: their heads were ftruck off, and, by a refinement in cruelty (beyond the invention of Jack Cade) the heart of de Foulon was torn out, and brought dancing on a pole, to falute his unhappy fon-in-law on his way to execution : nor was any infult to their mangled trunks omitted by the furious canaille. But the acts of a mob ought never to tarnilh a national character. WITHIN the Tower, on the green before the chapel, was be- Lon> HASTINGS. headed the accomplilhed lord Ha/lings. His fidelity to the chil- dren of his late mailer Edward IV. was the caufe of his death. He was dragged from the council-table, by order of their ambitious froteftor, Glocefter, who fwore he would have his head before he dined , and fuch was his hafte, that the unfortunate lord had only time to make a fhort (hrift to a priefl who cafually pafled by, and his head was taken off on a log which happened to lie in the way. So little did he expect death, that, fcarcely an hour before, he was exulting in the fate of his enemies, lord Rivers, lord Richard Grey, and Sir Thomas Vaugban, at Pontefraff ; yet all four underwent the ftroke of the headfman on the very fame day. Befides thefe, I can make a mifcellaneous recital of feveral who died within thefe walls, by natural deaths, by fuicide, or by accident. ELIZABETH, wife of Henry VII. breathed her laft here in child- ELIZA BETn,wir t j . OF HENRY VI1 bed, in 1502. * Fabian's Chronicle, part vi. 451. M m 3 HERE HE NRY, EIG HTH EAR i. OF No RTHCMBER- LAND. PHIMP EARL OF AR UN DEL. ARTHUR EARL er ESSEX. SIR Joan PERROT. REMARKABLE PERSONS. HERE may be truly faid to have fled indignant to the fhades,- the high fpirit of Henry earl of Northumberland. He was confined for the fame caufe as the earl of Arundel, by the jealous Elizabeth. 1'he B , exclames the earl, Jhall net have my eftafe ; and on- Jtif:e aift, 1585, fhot himfelf with a piftol loaden with three bullets. PHILIP earl of Arundel, fon of the duke of Norfolk, beheaded for afpiring to the bed of Mary queen of Scots, was condemned to- death for favoring that ill-fated princefs. He was indeed re- prieved, but fuffered to languifh till his death, in 159$: his bones were kept in an iron cheft. A late great dutchefs of the fame family procured his fcull, had it enchafed in gold, and kept it to exak her devotion, as the relique of a martyr to religion. ARTHUR earl of Effex, accomplice with lord RuJJel, ended here his days. Defpair feized him on his confinement, and, forfaken by Heaven, he put an end to his exiftence by the razor. He was of a party charged with equal freedom in religious as political principles. He vindicated and practifed fuicide. His death was charged on the court, but without the left grounds. The prince who could bring lord Rujfel to the block by a legal courfe, need never have incurred the odium of afiafiination on a lefs important partner of the confpiracy. HERE died, in September 1592, Sir John Perrot> the fuppofed fon offftnty VIII. by Mary wife to 'Thomas Perrot, efq; of Ha- rold/tone, in the county of Pembroke. In his great ftature, and high fpirit, he bore a ftrong refemblance to that monarch. Young Perrot firft attracted his notice by a quarrel he had with two of the yeoman of the guard, whom he foiled in a quarrel he had at the Jlrws in Southwark. He was in high favor in the following reign. WHO HAVE DIED IN THE TOWER. 371 peign. In that of Mary fell into difgrace, on account of his at- tachment to the reformed religion. When queen Elizabeth fuc- ceeded, he experienced the fmilea of his fovereign and filter. At length was conftituted lord deputy of Ireland, where he grew very unpopular, by reafon of his haughty conduct ; was recalled, un- juftly accufed, and condemned of treafon. His fentence was re- fpited j but he died of a broken heart, unable, from his lofty fpirit, to brook the ill-treatment he met with, from one he \hought fo- near an ally. IN this prifon alfo funk a victim to unmerited misfortunes, the T LADY ARA- innocent Arabella Stuart, daughter of Charles Stuart, earl ofLetwx, BELLA STUART. and younger brother to lord Darnley, father to James I. Her affi- nity to the crown brought her under the jealoufy of both Eliza- beth, and that monarch. The confpiracy in 1603, for which lord Cobbam, Sir Walter Raleigh, and others, were condemned, was fuppofed, among other objects, to have that of placing the crown on the head of this unfortunate lady j on which fhe was confined to her own houfe. She found means to be married privately to Sir William Seymour, fecond fon of the earl of Hertford, after- wards reftored to the dukedom of Somerfet. On difcovery of the wedding, they were committed to the Tower, to the care of diffe- rent keepers. They artfully contrived their efcape : he arrived fafe at Dunkirk - y the lady was taken at fea, and conveyed back to her prifon j where her misfortunes deprived her of her fenfes. She was releafed by death, September 27 th, 16155 and found an hono- rable interment in Henry Vllth's chapel, near the remains of her ill-fated relation Mary queen of Scots. Her hufband lived to fucceed to the title of Somerjet -, and was the faithful fervant and friend of Charles I. I SHALL 47* HENRY, EA RL OF NOR- THUMBERLAND, AND HIS WIZARDS. EAR.L OP SOUTHAMPTON, + ND HIS CAT. LORD CHANCEL- LOR JEFFRIES. INCIDENTS OF PERSONS CONFINED. I SHALL mention two other noblemen who were confined within thefe walls, on account of fome particularities which at- tended their durance. The firfl is Henry earl of Northumberland^ imprifoned on the very juft fufpicion of being privy to the Gun- powder treafon. During the time he was in cuftody, he amufed himfelf moft rationally in the company of learned men, who were permitted to have accefs to him. Among others, were three who were called his Wizards : poflibly he might be fond of aftronomy, or dabble in judicial aftrology ; circumftances that, with the vul- gar, might eafily faften on him the imputation of dealing with the devil. A VERY remarkable accident befel Henry Wriothjly, earl of Southampton, the friend and companion of the earl of Effex y in his fatal infurredion : after he had been confined there a fmall time, he was furprized by a vifit from his favorite cat, which had found its way to the I'ower ; and, as tradition fays, reached its matter by defcending the chimney of his apartment. I have feen at Bul- Jtrode, the fummer refidence of the late dutchefs of Portland^ an. original portrait of this earl, in the place of his confinement, in a black drefs and cloak, with the faithful animal fitting by him *. Perhaps this picture might have been the foundation of the tale. THE fallen lord chancellor, the cruel inftrument of defpotifm under James II. died, imprifoned here, of a broken heart, aided by intemperance. He was firfl interred in the church belonging to the 'Tower j and afterwards was removed to that of St. Mary, Aldermanbury > and depofited near the body of his rakifh fon, lord In the fame colle&ion is another portrait of the fame nobleman, out of confinement, richly dreffed, with a rich helmet and armour lying by him. 3 WELSH MANUSCRIPTS. Wem. In my younger days, I have heard of a hard-hearted in- fult on this once great man, during his imprifonment. He re- ceived, as he thought, a prefcnt ofColfbeftcr oyfters ; and exprefled great fatisfaction at the thought of having fome friend yet left : but, on taking off the top of the barrel, inftead of the ufual con- tents, appeared an halter ! To conclude this melancholy lift, I fhall return to antient times, to lament the fad fate of my countrymen, victims to Engli/h am- bition. Here was bafely confined, by Henry III. my countryman Gryfydd 3 father of our laft prince Llewelyn ap Gryffydd-, who, im- patient of imprifonment, attempted to efcape by lowering himfelf from the walls : the line he was defcending by broke, and, being of a great bulk, he was daflied to pieces, and perilhed in a moil miferable manner*. IT is fuppofed that many of our nobility, imprifoned within this fortrefs, had obtained leave that part of their libraries might be fent to them, for their amufement in their folitary hours : ib that in time it became a repofitory of Weljh literature. Thefe valua- ble manufcripts were at length burnt by the villainy of one Sedan, to the irreparable lofs of our hiftory, and our poetry. Gutto* r Gfynn, who wrote about the year 1450, thus relates the Llyfrau Cjmm a'u usfrudd, J'r 7W G-wynq aethaot ar guddj Yfceler oedd i Scglan, Furw'r uyrr Hyfrau i'r tan. e, " The books of Wales^ and their deftroyer, were concealed * /W/*5 liidory 307 ">*V* Hiflory, 263, N n "in GRYPFYDD, FATHER OF OU1 LAST PRINCE LLEWELYN. WELSH MAN USCRIPTI DESTROYED IN THE TOWER. 37* THE HEAD OF LLEWELYN PI ACE l> ON THE BATTLEMENTS. TUDOR. WELSH PRINCES EXECUTED. to be put in. the facrament," and numbers of other valuable effects. He died in peace in 1447, a wonderful thing in his family j not fewer than four of this great houfe, in little more than a century, fell by violent deaths- BELOW St. Catherine's, on the river fide, flood the great breweries or Eere-houfe, as it is called in the map publilhed in the firft volume of the Civitates Orbis^ They were fubject to regulations as early as the reign of Henry VII ; who, in 1492, licenfes John Merchant, a Fleming, to export fifty tons of ale called Berre*. And in the fame reign one Geffry Gate, pro- bably an officer of the king's, fpoiled the brewhoufes at St. Cathe- rines twice, either for fending too much abroad unlicenfed, or for brewing it too weak for their home cuftomers f. The demand for this article from foreign parts encreafed to a high degree ; in. * Rymer, xii. 271. t blaitland, ii. 1017. TOMB OF JOHN Hor.LAND DUKE oh THH BERE-HOUSE. die BREWERIES: the reign of queen Elizabeth, five hundred tons were exported at once, as isexprefied for the queen's ufe, atone time; probably fot the fervice of her army in the low countries j three hundred and fifty barrels to Embdcn-, three hundred to Amfterdam ; and again eight hundred to Embden. At this time there feems to have been a free exportation, except when checked by proclamation, for fear of enhancing the price of corn, by excefs of brewing in fcarcc times ; but even then it was permitted by the royal licence *. THOSE who wifh to attempt to reftore the fpirit of the boifter- ous reign of Henry > as far as depended on the boafted Britijb liquor, may ufe the following receipt f : x quarters make. ii quarters wheet. ii quarters ootos. xl Ib. weight of hoppys, to make Ix barrel of feugyll beer. IT is not in my power to trace the progrefs of this important article of trade. Let me only fay that it is now a national con- cern : for the duty on malt, from July fth 1785, to the fame day 1786, produced a million and half of money J, to the fupport of the * Strype's Stcnu, ii. 292. f Cuitomes, &c. of London, printed in J Vaft quantities of our beer or awter are fent abroad ; I do not know the fum, but the following extract fronTra newfpaper, wiil ftiew the greatnefs of our Breweries, The following is a lift of the chief porter brewers of London, and the barrels of flrong beer they have brewed, from Midfummer 1786, to Midjummer 1787. And we make no doubt but it will give our readers much pleafure, to find fuch a capi- tal article of trade folely confined to England \ and the more fo, as a large quan- tity cf ihe porter makes a confiderable part of our exports. Whitlread, EXTENT OF THE TRADE. the ftate, from a liquor which invigorates the bodies of its willing fubjefts, to defend the blefilngs they enjoy ; while that from the Stygian gin enervates and incapacitates. One of thefe Chevaliers de Malte (as an impertinent Frenchman ft'yled a moil refpedlable gentleman * of the trade) has, within one year, contributed not lefs than fifty thoufand pounds to his own fhare. The fight of a great London brewhoufe exhibits a magnificence unfpeakable. The veflels evince the extent of the trade. Mr. Metix y of Liquor- $ond-ftreet, Gray* s-inn-lane> can fhew twenty-four tons - t contain- ing, in all, thirty-five thoufand barrels ; one alone holds four thoufand five hundred barrels of wholeibme liquor j which enables the London porter-drinkers to undergo talks that ten gin-drinkers woujd fink under. 279 Wbitbread, Samuel Calvert, Felix Thrale, Hcjier Read, W. (Truman's) Calvert, John Hammond, Peter Goodwin, Henry Phillips, John Meitx, Richard Fi'JJit, Thomas Da559 9S>3 2 91,150 90,852 66,398 54> I 97 49>^5I 4>74I 40,279 39,400 2 4'93 Dickenfon, Jofepk Hare, Richard Allen, Thomas Ricklnfon, Rfvers Pearce, Richard Coker, Thomas Proflor, Thomas Nevuberry, William Hodgfon, Georgf^ Bullock, Robert Clarke, Edward Barrels* 2^,659 23,251 23>0 18,640 16,901 16,744 16,584 16,517 16,384 16,272 9,855 Total of Barrels 1,176,856 * The late Humphry Parfons, efq; when he was hunting with Louis XV. ex- cited the king's curiofity to know who he was, and afking.one of his attendants, received the above anfwer- X I AM 28o STEPNEY. 1 AM now arrived at the very eaftern extent of London, as it was in the age of queen Elizabeth. A fmall village or two might be found in the remaining part of the county of Middlesex, but bor- dered by marfhes, which frequently experienced the ravages of the river. This tract had been a manor in the Saxon times, called S-tibben-bedde^ i. e. Stibben-heatb. In later days it belonged to John de Pulteney y who had been four times lord mayor, viz. in 1 33> I 33 I > J 333> an ^ 1 33&* The bifhops of London had here a palace, as appears from antient records " Given from our palace of " Stebonhytb, or Stebonheath" which is fuppofed to have filled the fpace now covered with feveral tenements *. It appears that the fide next to the Thames had been embanked, to refift the fury of the floods. From the a6th of 'Edward I. feveral inquifitions were made to examine the {late of the banks and ditches, and the tenants, who were found negligent, were prefented as delin- quents f. The church, which (lands far from the river, was originally called Ecclefia omnium S-anftorum, but was afterwards ftyled that of St. Dunftan; for the whole body of faints was obliged to give way to him who had the courage to take the devil himfclf by the nofe J. The church is by no means diftin- guilhed by its architecture. In it were interred the remains of the illuftrious Sir 'Thomas Spert, comptroller of the navy in the time of Henry VIII. and to whom this kingdom was indebted for that falutary foundation the TRINITY-HOUSE ||. Here alfo may >e found that curious epitaph mentioned by the Spectator.: * Newceurf, i. 737. t Dugdale on embanking, 69. J. Lives of the Saints. Jj He died September 8tb, 1541. Here W A P P I N G. Here Thomas Saffin lyei interr'd : Ah why Born in New England, did in London dye ? &c. This vaft parifh is at prefent divided into eight others, yet the mother parifh ftill remains of great extent. THE dock and fhip yard, the property of Mr. Perry, the greateft private dock in all Europe, is at the extremity of this pa- rifh, at Blackwally the upper part of the eaftern fide of the IJle of Dogs. It may be called the eaftern end of London, being nearly a continued fucceffion of fix miles and a half of ftreets, from hence to 'Tyburn turnpike. THE great extent of Waffling, which ftretches along the river fide from 5V. Katberine's, arofe from the opinion of the commif- fioners of fewers, in 1571, that nothing could fecure the manor from the depredations of the water, more effectually than the build- ing of houfrs : for they thought the tenants would not fail being attentive to the fafety of their lives and property. The plan fuc- ceeded, and in our days we fee a vaft and populous town added to the antient precincts (which had ftagnated for ages). A long narrow ftreet, well paved, and handfomely flagged on both fides, winding along the banks of the Thames, as far as the end of Lime- koufe, an extent of near two miles ; and inhabited by multitudes of feafaring men, alternate occupants of fea and land : their float- ing tenements lie before them. In fad, the whole river, from the bridge, for a vaft way, is covered with a double foreft of mafts, with a narrow avenue in mid-channel. Thefe give impor- tance and fafety to the ftate, and fupply the mutual wants of the univerfe. We fend the neceflaries and luxuries of our ifland to every part j and, in return, receive every pabulum which fhoukt O o fcriatc SHADWELL. RADCLIFF. LIMEHOUSE. fatiate the mod luxurious, wealth that ought to make avarice Hold ! enough, and matters for fpeculatlon for the laudable and delicate longings of the intellectual world. SHADWBLL. THE hamlet of Shad-well is a continuation of the buildings along the river. Between the houfes and the water, in all this long tract of ftreet, are frequent docks,, and fmall building yards. The paflenger is often furprized with the fight of the prow of a (hip rifing over the ftreet, and the hulls of new ones appearing at numbers of openings. But all that filth and ftench, which Stow complains of, exifts no longer. Execution Dock ftills remains at lVaffling y and is in ufe as often as a melancholy occafion requires.. The criminals are to this day executed on a temporary gallows, placed at low-water mark ; but the cuftom of leaving the body to be overflowed by three tides, has long fince been omitted. R A DC LIT r. THE village of Radcliff y to which Waffling now joins, is of fome antiquity. From hence the gallant Sir Hugh Wilhughby, on May the aoth, 1553, took his departure on his.fatal voyage for difcovering the north-eaft pafTage to China. He failed with great pomp by Greenwich, where the court then lay. Mutual honors were payed on both fides. The council and courtiers ap- peared at the windows, and the people covered the fhores. The young king alone loft the noble and novel fight, for he then lay on his death-bed $ fo that the principal object of the parade was difappointed*. LIMEMCUSI. LIMEHOUSE is a continuation of the town along the river-fide : it is a new creation ; and its church, one of the fifty new churches, was finifhed in 1724. This may be called the end of London on the * Hackluytt i 239. water* POPLAR CANA1*. s water- fide j but it is continued by means of Poplar, a chapelry In the parifh. of Stepney (antiently a regal manor, (b named from its abundance of poplar trees) -acrofs the upper part of the Ifle of Dogs, in a ftrait line to the river Lea, the divifion of this county from Effex. WAPPING, Skufaxll, and Limehoufe, have their refpe&ive churches j and Poplar its chapel. The two firft have nothing to attract the eye. Limehoufe has its aukward tower, a dull fquare rifing out of another, embellifhed with pilafters ; heavy pinnacles rife out of the uppermoft : the whole proves how unhappily Mr. Hawkfmoor, the architect of Bloomjbury church, exerted his genius in the obfolete art of fteeple-building. The church in queftion is one of the new fifty. In the year 1730 it was added to the bills of mortality. . IN our walk through Limehoufe, we crofled the New Cut, or Poplar canal, near its difcharge into the river. This was begun about twenty years ago ; runs by Bromley , and joins the river Lea near Bow, where barges enter by means of a lock called Bow-lock. This canal is about a mile and a quarter in length j and ferves to bring to our capital corn, malt, and flour, from the neighborhood of Hertford, and feveral other counties, which put thetr produc- tions on board the barges at that town. It is alfo of great ufe to convey to the Thames the produce of the great diftilleries near Bow j and alfo to the internal counties coals, and feveral articles from the metropolis. This canal faves the great circuit of paffing down to Lea-mouth, and thence round the Ifle of Dogs i a navigation often impeded by contrary winds and tides, which frequently fall out fo adverfe, as to occafion great delays. Yet this canal by no means annihilates the ufe of the river Lea O 2 tO ft S 4 BILLS OF MORTALITY, to and from its mouth ; but barges go indifferently either way, as conveniency, or the circumftances above-mentioned, occur. Be- fides, many barges will enter the river Lea to fave the navigation expences of the New Cut. LIMEHOUSE dock is a little farther to the fouth-eaft, and is much ufed. WE finilhed our walk, and dined at a fmall houfe called the Folly , on the water's edge, almoft oppofite to the fplendid hofpital at Greenwich, where we fat for fome hours enjoying the delicious view of the river, and the moving picture of a fucceflion of fhipping perpetually paffing and repairing. BILLS OF IT is wonderful, that in this great city there fhould have been \A no regular Cenfus -, but that we muft depend on the account of the number of inhabitants from the uncertain calculation of the bills of mortality. I will allow them to be delivered annually, by the only cenfors we have, the company of parijh-flerks, with all poffi- ble accuracy, as far as their knowlege extends : but, as it is ad- mitted that a number of people find their burials in ccemeteries without the bills, equal nearly to thofe which are annually reported to be interred within their jurifdiction, the uncertainty of the enu- meration collected from them muft be allowed. In the laft year, 19,697 were buried within the bills: if the above aflertion* is well founded, the fum muft be 39,394. I refer the decifion of the numbers of inhabitants to the fkilful in calculation. I have heard it averred that the prefent number is a million. Maitland gives the total, in the time of his publication (1756) to have * Mr. Richard/on. been BILLS OF MORTALITY. been 725,341 *. The increafe of London fince his days gives a probability that the enumeration is not much exaggerated. BILLS of mortality took rife in 1592, in which began a great peftilence, which continued till the i8th of December, 1595. During this period they were kept in order to afcertain the num- ber of perfons who died : but when the plague ceafed, the bills were difcontinued. They were refumed again in 1603. At the original inftitution, there were only a hundred and nine parifhes : others were gradually added, and, by the year 1681, the number was a hundred and thirty-two: fince that time fourteen more have been added, fo that the whole amounts to a hundred and forty-fix ; viz. 97 within the walls^ 16 without the walls. 23 out-parifhes in Middlefex and Surry. 10 in the city and liberties of IVeftminfter f. AMONG the multitudes who fall victims to difeafe, is a melan- choly account of the rural youth, which crowd here in numbers, laboring under the delufion of preferment : fome perifh foon, without even attaining a fervice j and, urged by want, fall under the cognizance of juftice. Others get admiffion into fhops, or into places, where they experience hard work, hard wages, hard lodgings, and fcanty food. They foon fall ill, are neglected, or flung into an hofpital when pafled all relief, where they perifh. Their native villages want their innocent labor, and the whole Maitland, ii. 755. This book is dedicated to Sling Jby Bethel, efq; who was lord mayor in that year. f To fatisfy the curiofity of thofe who have not opportunity of feeing a BiH of Mortality, I have printed that of 178$, at the end of this book. 8 ruftic HADCLIPF HIGHWAY. RAG-FAIR. RADCLIPP HIGHWAY. -FAIR. ABBT OF ST. MARY OF THE GRACES. ruftic community, I may fay the whole kingdom, fuffers for the indifcreet ambition of thefe unhappy youths or of their fimple parents. WE varied our road on our return, by taking that of Radcliff Highway, a broad and very long flreet, ending in Eaft Smlthfield. On the north fide ftands another of the new fifty churches, St. George's Middlejex\ fquare rifes out of fquare, to compofe the fteeple ; its upper ftory is incomprehenfible, the outfide (luck around with chimney-like columns, fquare at the lower parts, above making a fudden tranfition into the round. This church was began in 1715 j finilhed in 1729 : and, by the eccentricity of the ftyle, may fairly be fufpefted to have had Mr. Hawk/moor for its builder. AT the end of this ilreet we found ourfelves in the midft of Rag-fair, in the fulleft hour of bufinefs. The articles of com- merce by no means belye the name. There is no exprefllng the poverty of the goods : nor yet their cheapnefs. A diftinguiihed merchant, engaged with a purchafer,obferving me to look on him with great attention, called out to me, as his cuftomer was going off with his bargain, to obferve that man, For, fays he, I have ac- tually (loathed him for fourteen penes. A LITTLE farther on to the eaft, flood the abby of St. Mary of the Graces, called alfo the New 4bby, and Eaftminjter, in oppofition to Weftmhiftcr, in refpect to its fituation. It was founded by Edward III. in 1349, in the new church-yard of the Holy Trinity, and filled with Ciftertians. That church-yard was made by John Corey, clerk, on occafion of the dreadful peftilence which raged in that reign, fo that there was not room in the common church- yards to inter the dead. Edward was moved to his piety by a x fright ABBY OF ST. MARY OF THE GRACES. 487 VICTUALLING OFFICE. fright he was feized with in a violent ftorm, in his way to France ; when he vowed ; if he got fafe to fhore, he would found a monaftery to the honor of God, and the Lady of Grace, if fhe would grant him the grace of coming fafe on fhore *. At the diflblution its revenues, according to Dugdale, amounted to . 5,406. o s. 10 d. It was granted to Sir Arthur Darcie, in 1540, who pulled it en- tirely down. " In place thereof," fays Stow, " is builded a large " flore-houfe for victual, and convenient ovens are builded for " baking of bifket to (erve hir majefties fhippes." The prefent Victualling Office fucceeded the original building, and is allotted for the fame purpofe. FROM hence I pafled by the I'ower, to the Cuftom-houfe, a CUSTOM-HOUS*. little to the weft of that fortrefs. On this fpot is the bufy con- courfe of all nations, who pay their tribute towards the fupport of Great Britain. The prefent building is of brick and ftone ; be- fore which, Ihips of three hundred and fifty tons can lie and dif- charge their cargo. There was one here, built as early as the year 1385, by John Churchman f, one of the fheriffs of London r ; but at that period, and long after, the cuftoms were collected in- different parts of the city, and in a very irregular manner. About the year 1559 the lofs to the revenue was firft difcovered, and air act pafled to compel people to land their goods in fuch places as were appointed by the commiflioners of the revenue ; and this was the fpot fixed on : a Cuftom-houfe was erected, which, being de- ftroyed by the great fire,, was rebuilt by Charles II. In 1718, it underwent the lame fate, and was reftored in its prefent form.. * New cf iirt, i. 465. f. Strife's Stew, ii. book iv. 114. Before 8B THE CUSTOMS AT VARIOUS PERIODS. Before the Cuftom-houfe was eftablifhed here, the principal place CUSTOMS is f or receiving the duties was at Eillingjgate. As early as 979, or the reign of Etheldred, a fmall veffel was to pay ad Bilynggefgatc one penny halfpenny as a toll ; a greater, bearing fails, one penny j a keel or hulk ( Ceol vel Hulcus) four pence ; a fhip laden with wood, one piece for toll j and a boat with fifh, one halfpenny ; or a larger, one penny *. We had even now trade with France for its wines ; for mention is made of fhips from Rouen, who came here and landed them, and freed them from toll, i. e. payed IN 1268. their duties. What they amounted to I cannot learn. But in 1268 the half year's cuftoms, for foreign merchandize in the city of London, came only to .75. 6 s. lod. In 1331, they amounted IN 1354. to - 8,000 a year. In 1354, the duty on imports was only .580. 6s. 8 d. j on. our exports (wool and felts) .81,624. I s. id. Well may Mr. Anderfon obferve j- the temperance and fobriety of the age, when we confider the fmall quantities of wine and other luxuries ufed in thefe kingdoms. IK 1590; J N 1590, the latter end of the glorious reign of Elizabeth, our cuftoms brought in . 50,000 a year. They had at firft been farmed at . 14,000 a year j afterwards raifed to .42,000; and finally to the fum I mention, and flill to the fame perfon, Sir Thomas Smith. IN 1613, by the peaceful politics of James I. our imports brought in .4^,250; our exports .61,322. 16 s. yd. the whole of the revenue, from the cuftoms, amounting this year to . 109,572. 1 8 s. *f.d. in the port of London only. Our exports * Brompton x Scriptores, i. col. 897. j- Di&ionary, i. 186. from T R I N I T Y-H O U S E, from the out-ports raifed .25,471. 9*. $d. j the imports ,. 13,030. 9 s. yd.\ the fum total was . 148,075. 7 j. %d. IN 1641, juft before the beginning of our troubles, the cuftoms I 1641. brought in . 500,000 a year j the effecl: of a long feries of peaceful days. The effedts of our civil broils appeared ftrongly in 1666, when they fuffered a decreafe of . 1 10,000. From the I N ,555 16 year 1671 to 1688, they were at a medium . 555,752. In the year 1709, notwithstanding a fierce war raged for many years, IK 1709. they were raifed 10^.2,319,320. For want of materials, I am obliged to pafs to the annual produce of the cuiloms, ending in Airily 1789, which amounted to . 3,7 1 1,1 26. IN Water-lane > a little to the north- weft of the Cuftom-houfe, is the Trinity-houfe ; a fociety founded in 1515, at a period in which the Britijh navy began to aflume a fyftem. The founder was Sir 'Thomas Sperf, comptroller of the navy, and commander of the great fhip Henry Grace de Dieu. It is a corporation, con- fifting of a mafter, four wardens, eight afliftants, and eighteen elder brethren * ; felefted from commanders in the navy and the merchants fervice j and now and then a compliment is payed to one or two of our firft nobility. They may be confidered as guardians of our fhips, military and commercial. Their powers are very extenfive : they examine the mathematical children of Cbri/l's Hofpital-, mafters of his majefty's fhips ; they appoint pilots for the river Thames ; fettle the general rates of pilotage ; eredl: light-houfes, and fea-marks ; grant licences to poor feamen, not free of the city, to row on the Thames ; prevent foreigners * The whole corporation are ufually called Tbt Thirty-one Brttbrtn. See a fall account in Strut's Strw, ii. book v. p. 286-7. P p from SIRJOHNLEAKE. from ferving on board our (hips without licence ; punifh feamen for mutiny and dcfertion ; hear and determine complaints of offi- cers and men in the merchants fervice, but liable to appeal to the judge of the court of admiralty; fuperintend the deepening and cleanfing of the river Thames t and have under their jurifdiction the ballaft-ofrke ; have powers to buy lands, and receive dona- tions for charitable ufes; and, in confequence, relieve annually many thoufands of poor feamen, their widows, and orphans. THIS houfe is unworthy of the greatnefs of its defign. In the council-room are fome portraits of eminent men. The moft re- markable is that of Sir John Leake, with his lank grey locks, and a loofe night gown, with a mien very little indicative of his high courage, and active fpirit. He was the greateft commander of his time, and engaged in moft actions of note during the reigns of king William and queen Anne. To him was committed the defpe- rate, but fuccefsful attempt of breaking the boom, previous to the relief of Londonderry. He diftinguifhed himfelf greatly at the battle of La Hogue ; aflifted at the taking of Gibraltar ; and after- wards, as commander in chief, reduced Barcelona ; took Cartba- gena, and brought Sardinia and Minorca to fubmit to Charles, rival to Philip for the crown of Spain. He was made a lord of the admiralty, but declined the offer of being head of the commiflion j at the accefiion of George I. averfe to the new family, he retired ; but with the approving penfion of . 600 a year. He lived pri- vately at Greenwich, where he died in 1720, and was buried in a manner fuitable to his merits, in the church at Stepney. IT is in this houfe the bufmefs of the inftitution is carried on : kut the mother-houfe is at Deptford, the corporation being named, The majter, wardens, and ajfijtants of the guild or fraternity of the 2, moft BILLINGSGATE. moft glorious and undivided Trinity, and of St. Clement , in the pa- riih of Deptford Strond, in the county of Kent*. AFTER the Cuftom-boufe y the firft place of note is Billingfgate, or, BILLINGSGATE. to adapt the fpelling to conjectures of antiquaries, " >vho go be- " yond the realms of Chaos and old night," lfe/f's-gate, or the gate of Belinus king of Britain, fellow-adventurer with Brennus king of the Gauls, at the facking of Rome, three hundred and fixty years before the Cbriftian era : and the BE LI mawr, who graces the pedigrees of numbers of us antient Britons. For fear of fall - r o , ing on fome inglorious name, I fubmit to the etymology ; but muft confefs there does not appear any record of a gate at this place : his fon Lud was more fortunate, for Ludgate preferves his memory to every citizen, who knows the juft value of antiquity. Gate here fignifies only a place where there was a concourle of people j- j a common quay or wharf, where there is a free going in and out to the fame J. This was a fmall pott for the reception of (hipping, and, for a confiderable time, the moft important place for the landing of almoft every article of commerce. It was not till the reign of king William that it became celebrated as a fifh- market i who, in 1699, by aft of parlement made it a free port for fifli, which might be fold there every day in the week except Sunday, The object of this has long been fruftrated, and the epicure who goes (as was a frequent practice) to Billingjgate to eat fifh in perfection, will now be cruelly difappointed. I CANNOT give a lift of the fifti moft acceptable in the Saxon * Strypis Maitland, ii. book v. p. 286. f Skinner'* Etymology. t Edward I. his grant of Botolph's quay. P p 2 ages 5 19* FISH B'ROUGHT TO MARKET s. d. o i 3 ages; but there is a lift left of thofe which were brought to mar- ket in that of Edward I. who defcended even to regulate the prices, that his fubjeft* might not be left to the mercy of the venders. s. d. Beft Thames, or Severn lamprey - 04 Beft frelh oyfters, a gallon for o 2 Beft rumb, grofs and fat, at 04 Beft fea-hog, i. e. porpefle 6 8 Beft eels, a ftrike, or | hundred - 02 Beft lampreys, in winter, the hundred - 08 Ditto, at other times -06 Thefe, by their cheap- nefs, muft have o 3 O 2 o 4 2 5 1 O o 6 The beft plaice A dozen of beft foles Beft frefh mulvil, i. e. molun or cod Beft hadock Beft barkey Beft mullet Beft doracj John Doree ? Beft conger Beft turbot Beft bran, fard, and betule o 3 Beft mackrcl, in Lent And out of Lent Beft gurnard Beft frefh merlings, i. e. whitings, four for Beft powdered ditto, 12 for Beft pickled herrings, twenty o i Beft frefli ditto, before Michaelmas, fix for o I Ditto, after Michaelmas, twelve for - o i o i o of o i o i o i been the little lam- preys now ufed for bait. Beft frefli falmon, from Cbriftmas to Rafter, for 5 o Ditto, after ditto - 30 Beft fmelts, the hundred o i Beft roche, in fummer o i Beft Lucy, or pike, at 68 AMONG IN THE TIME OF EDWARD I. 253 AMONG thefe fifli, let me obferve, that the conger is, at prefent, never admitted to any good table j and to fpeak of ferving up a porpefle whole, or in part, would fet your guefts a flaring. Yet, fuch is the difference of tafte, both thefe fifties were in high efteem. King Richard 's mafter cooks have left a moft excellent receipt for Congur in Sawfe * j and as for the other great fifh, it was either eaten roafted, or faked, or in broth, or furmente with por- fejje f . /The learned Doftor Caitts even tells us the proper fauce, and fays, that it fhould be the fame with that for a Dolphin J ; another difh unheard of in our days. From the great price the Lucy or pike bore ||, one may reafonably fufpect that it was at that time an exotic fifh, and brought over at a vaft expence. I CONFESS myfelf unacquainted with the words Barkey, Bran, and Betule : Sara 1 was probably the Sardine or Pilchard: I am equally at a lofs about Croplings, and Rumb : but the pickled Ba- lenes were certainly the Pholas Daffy his of Linnaeus, mo j the Balanus of Rondeletius de feftaceis, 28 j and the Dattili of the modern Italians, wriich are to this day eaten, and even pickled. To this lift of fea-fifh, which were admitted in thofe days to table, may be added the fturgeon, and ling ; and there is twice mention, in archbifhop Nevill's great feaft, of a certain fifh, both roafted and baked, unknown at prefent, called a Thirle-poole. THE feal was alfo reckoned a fifh, and, with the fturgeon and porpefs, were the only frefli fifh which, by the 3 3d of Henry VIII. were permitted to be bought of any ftranger at fea, between Eng- land and France, Flanders, and Zealand. * Forme of Cury, 52. { Caii opufcula, 1 16. || Britijh Zoology, iii, 320. A LITTLE 2 , ;4 L O N D O N-B R I D G E. LONDON-BRIDGE; A LITTLE to the weft is London-lridge . The year of its foun- dation is not fettled. The firft mention of it is in the laws of Etbelred> which fix the tolls of veffels coming to Billing/gate, or ad Pontem. It could not be prior to the year 993, when Unlaf, the Dane, failed up the river as high as Stains *, without interrup- tion : nor yet after the year 1016, in which Ethelred died : and the great Canute, king of Denmark, when he befieged London, was impeded in his operations by a bridge, which even at that time muft have been ftrongly fortified, to oblige him to have recourfe to the following vaft expedient : He caufed a prodigious ditch to be cut on the fouth fide of the Thames, at Rotherhithe, or Redtiff, a little to the eaft of Southwark, which he continued at a diftance from the fouth end of the bridge, in form of a femicircle, opening into the weftern part of the river. Through this he drew his (hips, and effectually compleated the blockade of the city f. But the valour of the citizens obliged him to raife the fiege. Evidences of this great work were found in the place called 'The Dock Head, at Redriff, where it began. Fafcines of hazels, and other brufh- wood, faftened down with ftakes, were difcovered in digging that dock, in 1694; and in other parts of its courfe have been met with, in ditching, large oaken planks, and numbers of piles J. WHIN BUILT ^* HE bridge originated from the public fpirit of the college of priefts of St. Mary Overie. Before, there had been a ferry, left by her parents to their only daughter Mary $ who, out of the pro- fits, founded a nunnery and endowed it with the profits of the boat. This houfe was afterwards converted into the college of * Saxon Cbron. 148. J Matt land, i. 35. The fne. priefts, LONDON-BRIDGE. priefts, who not only built the bridge but kept it in repair : but it muft be imderftood that the firft bridge was of timber, the mate- rials at hand, and moft probably rudely put together. This ac- count is given by Stow, from the report of Bartholomew Linjled, alias Fowle, lad prior of St. Marie Overie j but was doubted, becaufe the work has been fuppofed to be too great, and too dif- interefted for a college of priefts, who were to give up the certain profits of the ferry, for thofe refulting precarioufly from an expen- iive undertaking. Even the exiftence of a religious houfe before the Conqueft has been fulpedted : but the Dome/day book puts that out of doubt, by informing us, Ipfe epifcopus habet unum monafterium in Sudwerche. Numbers of ufeful, as well as pious works, in early days, originated from the inftigation of the church- men, who often had the honor of being called the founders, when the work itfelf was performed by their devotees. Neither is it to be fuppofed that -they could keep it in repair : the fame zeal which impelled people to contribute to the building, operated in the veftiture of land for its future fupport j and this appears to have been done by feveral inftances -, yet the endowments were fo fmall, that a fupplementary tax was often railed. IN 1136, the bridge was burnt down. By the year 1163 it grew fo ruinous as to occafion its being rebuilt, under the care of one Peter, curate of St. Mary Colecburcb, a celebrated architect of thofe times. It was foon after determined to build a bridge of ftone, and, about the year 1 176, the fame Peter was employed again. It proved a work of thirty-three years : the architect died four years before it was completed ; and another clergyman, Ifen- berty mafter of the fchools of Xain5ies y was recommended to the citizens, by king Jobn> for the honor of finifliing it j but they rejected 295 FIRST or TIMBER.. REBUILT it; 1 176 WITH STONE. 196 L O N D O N-B RIDGE: rejected their prince's choice, and committed the work to three merchants of London, who completed it in 1209. Peter was buried in a beautiful chapel, probably of his own conftruction, CHAPEL IN ONE 1-1/111 n rj i L OF THE PIERS, dedicated to St. Thomas, which flood on the eaft fide, in the ninth pier from the north end, and had an entrance from the river, as well as the ftreet, by a winding ftaircafe. It was beautifully paved with black and white marble, and in the middle was a tomb, fup- pofed to contain the remains of Peter the architect. THIS great work was founded on enormous piles, driven as clofely as poflible together : on their tops were laid long planks ten inches thick, ftrongly bolted j and on them were placed the bafe of the pier, the lowerrnoft ftones of which were bedded in pitch, to prevent the water from damaging the work : round all were the piles which are called the Sterlings, dcfigned for the pre- fervation of the foundation piles. Thefe contracted the fpace between the piers fo greatly, as to occafion, at the retreat of every tide, a fall of five feet, or a number of temporary cataracts, which, fince the foundation of the bridge, have occafioned the lofs of many thoufand lives. The water, at fpring-tides, rifes to the height of about eighteen feet. The length of this vaft work is nine hun- dred and fifteen feet, the exact breadth of the river. The num- ber of arches was nineteen, of unequal dimenfions, and greatly, deformed by the fterlings, and the houfes on each fide, which overhung and leaned in a moft terrific manner. In moft places they hid the arches, and nothing appeared but the rude piers. I well remember the ftreet on London- bridge, narrow, darkfome, and dangerous to paflengers from the multitude of carriages : frequent arches of ftrong timber croffed the ftreet, from the tops of the houfes, to keep them together, and from falling into the river. DRAW-BRIDGE. 297 river. Nothing but ufe could preferve the reft of the inmates, who foon grew deaf to'the noife of the falling waters, the clamors of watermen, or the frequent fhrieks of drowning wretches. Moft of the houfes were tenanted by pin or needle makers, and oeco- PIN-MAKEIS. nomical ladies were wont to drive from the St. James's end of the town, to make cheap purchafes. Fuller tells us, that Spanijh needles were made here firft in Cheapfide, by a negro, who died without communicating the art. Elias Crowfe, a German, in the reign of Elizabeth, was more liberal, and firft taught the method to the Englijh. Fuller's definition of a needle is excellent, quafi NE IDLE. IN the bridge were three openings on each fide, with ballu- ftrades, to give pafiengers a fight of the water and (hipping. In one part had been a draw-bridge, ufeful either by way of defence, DRAW-BRIDGE. or for the admifilon of fhips into the upper part of the river. This was protected by a ftrong tower. It ferved to repulfe Faucon- bridge the Baftard, in his general aflault on the city in 1471, with a fet of banditti, under pretence of refcuing the unfortunate Henry t then confined in the Tower. Sixty houfes were burnt on the bridge on the occafion *. It alfo ferved to check, and in the end annihilate, the ill-conducted infurrection of Sir Thomas Wiat, irt the reign of queen Mary. The top of this tower, in the fad and turbulent days of this kingdom, ufed to be the lhambles of hu- man flefh, and covered with heads or quarters of unfortunate partizans. Even fo late as the year 1598, Hentzner, the German traveller, with German accuracy, counted on it above thirty Hdinjhtd, 690. heads. 29* DREADFUL FIRE ON LONDON-BRIDGE. DREADFUL CA- IAMITY BY FIRE. heads *. The old map of the city, in 1597, reprefents them in a moft horrible clufter. AT the fouth end of the bridge one Peter Corbis, a Dutchman j-, in the year 1582, invented an engine to force the water of the Thames into leaden pipes, to fupply many of the adjacent parts of the city. It has, fince that time, been fo greatly improved, by the fkill of the EngliJJj mechanics, as to become a moft curious as well as ufeful piece of machinery, and to be extremely worthy the attention of that branch of fcience. I MUST not quit the bridge, without noticing an unparalleled calamity, which happened on it within four years after it~ was finifhed. A fire began on it at the Southwark end j multitudes of people rufhed out of London to extinguilh it; while they were engaged in this charitable defign, the fire feized on the oppofite end, and hemmed in the crowd. Above three thoufand perfons perifhed in .the flames, or were drowned by overloading the vef- fels which were hardy enough to attempt their relief. A BRAVE ACTION. THE gallant action of Edmund Ojborne^ anceftor to the duke of "Leeds, when he was apprentice to Sir William Hewet, cloth- worker, muft by no means be forgotten. About the year 1536, when his mailer lived in one of thefe tremendous houfes, a fervant- maid was playing with his only daughter in her arms, in a window- over the water, and accidentally dropt the child. Young OJborne, who was witnefs to the misfortune, inftantly fprung into the river, and, beyond all expectation, brought her fafe to the terrified family. Several perfons of rank payed their addreffes to her, * Fugitive Pieces, vol. ii. 243. f Sttnv'f Survaie, London and it J Environs, iv. 146. when A BRAVE ACTION. MR. TEMPLE'S SUICIDE. when fhe was marriageable -, among others, the earl of Sbrewjbury : but Sir William gratefully decided in favor of OJborne ; OSBORNE, fays he, Javed her, and OSBORNE Jhall enjoy her *. In her right he pofiefled a great fortune. He became fheriff of London in 1575 j and lord mayor in 1582. I have feen the picture of his matter at Kiveton, the feat of the duke of Leeds, a half length on board ; his drefs is a black gown furred, a red veft and fleeve, a gold chain, and a bonnet. He ferved the office of lord mayor in 1 5 59 i and died in 1 566. Strype miftakes, when he fays, that Sir William died in 1599, and was buried in the cathedral of St. Paul : another perfon of the fame name lies there, under the handfome monument f afcribed by our old hiftorian to the former. OF the multitudes who have perifhed in this rapid defcent, the names of no one, of any note, has reached my knowlege, except that of Mr. Temple, only fon of the great Sir William 'Temple. His end was dreadful, as it was premeditated. He had, a week before, accepted, from king Wtl&am.) the office of Secretary of War. On the i4th of April, 1689, he hired a boat on the Thames, and directed the waterman to fhoot the bridge j at that in- ilant he flung himfelf into the torrent, and, having filled his pockets with (tones, to deftroy all chance of fafety J, inftantly funk. In the boat was found a note to this effect : " My folly, in undertak- 346. " this 300 FALSTAFF'S HOUSE OF RENDEZVOUS. " this fudden end. I wifh him fuccefs in all his undertakings, " and a better fervant." I hope his father's reflection, on the occafion, was a parental apology, not his real fentiments : " That f f a wife man might difpofe of himfelf, and make his life as fhort " as he pleafed." How ilrongly did this great man militate againft the precepts of Chriftianity, and the folid arguments of a moft wife and pious heathen * ! CHURCH or VERY n:ar to the northern end of the bridge, is the church of ST. MAGNUS. _. . 111 i i r L St. Magnus. It is probably a church or great antiquity ; yet the firft mention is in 1433. It was confumed in the great fire, but within ten years was reftored in the prefent handfome ftyle. The bottom of the tower is open, fo as to admit a moft convenient thoroughfare to the numerous paflengers. A LITTLE higher up, on the left hand, is Eaftcheap, immorta- lized by SHAKESPEARE, as the place of rendezvous of Sir John Falftaffa.n& his merry companions. Here flood the Boar's Head tavern j the fite is now covered with modern houfes, but in the front of one is ftill preferved the memory of the fign, the Boar's Head) cut in ftone. Notwithftanding the houfe is gone, we fhall laugh at the humour of the jovial knight, his hoftefs, Bardolpb, and Piftoly as long as the defcriptive pages of our great dramatic writer exift in our entertained imagination. I muft mention, that in the wall of another houfe is a Swan cut in ftone ; probably, in old times, the fign of another tavern. THE renowned Henry, prince of Wales^ was not the only one of the royal family, whofe youthful blood led them into frolic and * CICERO in his Somnium Scipionis, riot. FIRE OF LONDON. jor fiot. His brothers John, and Thomas, with their attendants, be- tween two and three o'clock, after midnight, raifed fuch an uproar, that the mayor and fheriffs thoughkproper to interfere. This the princes took as an infult on their dignity. The magiftrates were convened by the celebrated chief juftice Gafcoigne -, they ftood on their defence, and were moft honorably difmified, it being proved that they did no more than their duty, towards the maintenance of the peace *. THIS flreet was famous, in old times, for its convivial doings ; f f The cookes cried hot ribbes of beef roiled, pies well baked, and cf other victuals t ' there was clattering of pewter, pots, harpe, for the melancholy detail. * Stow's &ur / pugnacious focietyj for I read, in 1268, of a defperate battle' between them and the Taylors, in which numbers were (lain. This company pays . 500 a year to charitable ufes. THE next place I fhall take notice of, to the weft of this hall, COLD was Cold Harbour, mentioned as a tenement as early as the reign of Ed-ward II. A magnificent houfe was, in after-times, built on the fpot, which, from its occupant, Sir John Poultney, four times mayor of London, was, in the ftyle of the times, called Poultney-Inn: for the town habitations of moft of the great men POULTNEY-IKK. were called Inns. Warwick-Inn was the palace of the great king- maker, and many others had the fame addition. In feudal days the town had no pleafures to attract the great j they feldom came there but to fupport a caufe (as now and then is the cafe with a modern fenator), to make or unmake a king, or lay the founda- tion of civil broils. In 1397, it was the Inn of John Holland^ duke of Exeter, and earl of Huntingdon, who here gave a din- ner, and doubtlefsly a very magnificent one, to his half-brother * See Ar8. Zool. Intrul. f Sto and, for a long time pad, known only by name. THE Three Cranes, in the Vintry, was the next wharf, which, in old times, by royal order, was allotted for the landing of wines, as the name imports. The Cranes were the three machines ufed for the landing of the wines, fuch as we ufe to this day. In the adjacent lane was the Painted 'Tavern, famous as early as the time of Richard II. In this neighborhood was the great houfe called the Vintrie, with vaft wine-vaults beneath. Here, in 1314, re- fided Sir John Gifors, lord mayor, and conftable of the Tower. But the memorable feafting of another owner, Sir Henry Picard, vintner, lord mayor in 1356, muft not be forgotten, who, " in " one day, did fumptuoufly feaft Edward king of England, " John king of France, the king of Cifres (then arrived in Eng- , the matrimonial king of Caftile, tempeft-driven into his domi- nions, and fliewed him the pomp and glory of his capital J. THIS caftle was the refidence of Sir William Sydney., who died chamberlain and fteward to Edward VI. And in this place Mary, the gloomy queen of the gloomy namefake of the former, * Richard III. aft iii. fc. vii. f- Holinjheet, 7 93. t The fame. hadi TOWER OF MONTFICHET. 323 had her right to the throne refolved on ; and from hence her par- tizans Tallied forth to proclame her lawful title. At this time it was the property and refidence of William Herbert, earl of Pem- broke, a particular favorer of the rightful heir. Her fucceflbr, Elizabeth, did him the honor of taking a fupper with his lord- fhip : after fupper, her majefty went on the water to ihew her- felf to her fubjects ; her barge was inftantly furrounded by hun- dreds of boats j loud acclamations delivered from the heart, mufic, and fireworks teftified the happinefs they felt at the fight of this mother of her people. Early hours were then the fafhion, for, notwithftanding this fcene was exhibited on the 25th of April t ihe retired to her palace at 10 o'clock *. To the weft of this flood the other of Fitzjtepfon's caftles, the tower of Montfichet, founded by Gilbert de Montficbet, a native of Rome, but related to the Conqueror : he brought with him a ftrong force, and fought gallantly in his caufe, in the field of Haftings f. By him was founded this tower : its date was (hort, for it was demolilhed by king John in 1213, after banifhing Richard, fucceflbr to Gilbert, the actual owner J. The materials were applied, in 1276 (as before related) to the building of the monaftery of the Black Friars. A LITTLE farther is Puddle Dock, and Puddle Dock Hill, re- PUD OLE DOCK, markable only for having in the latter the weftern termination of the long ftreet called 'fhames-ftreet, which extends eaftward as far TH A ME* -STREET. -as the Tower, a mile in length. In early times, the fouthern fide TOWER OF MO NTFICHET, * Strype's f Dugdal^i Baron, i. 438. 4 Stew's Survaie, 114. T t 2 was 32+ PUDDLE DOCK AND ITS VICINITY. was guarded by a wall, clofe to the river, ftrengthened with tower*. Thefe are mentioned by Fitzftepbens as having been ruined and undermined by the river. Lord Lyttelton juftly obferves, that after the building of the 'Tower and the bridge, there was no necefllty of reftoring thefe fortifications ; as it was impofiible (at left after the bridge was flung acrofs the Thames) for any fleet to annoy the city. It originally flood farther from the river than the prefent buildings and wharfs, a confiderable fpace between the ftreet and the water having been gained in a long feries of ages. NOT far from Puddle Dock, in old times, flood an antient houfe of ftone and timber, built by the lords of Berkely, a potent race of barons. In the reign of Henry VI. it was the refidence of the great Richard Beauchamp, earl of Warwick *, who feems to have made himfelf mafter of this by violence, among other eflates of the Berkelies, to which he made pretenfions on the death of Thomas fourth lord Berkeley j\ FROM hence I turn north till I gain the fite of Ludgate. On the left all is piety ; Credo-lane, Aje Maria ! lane, Amen Corner, and Pater-Nofter-row, indicate the fanctity of the motley inhabi- tants. Before us rifes the magnificent ilru&ure of St+ Paul's, and its confined church-yard. Before I mention that noble tem- ple, I purfue the left hand way to Warwick-lane -, Where ftands a dome majeftic to the fight, And fumptuous arches bear its oval height ; A golden globe, plac'd high with artful Jkill, Seems to the diftant fight a gilded pill. * Stoic's Survaie, 641. f DHgdalit Baron, i. 362. In COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS. 3*5 In profe, the College of Pbyftcians j a fociety founded originally COLLEGE OF by Doctor Linacre? the firft who refcued the medical art from the hands of illiterate monks and empirics. He ftudied in Italy : and became phyfician to Henry VII. and VIII. Edward VI. and the princefs Mary. He died in 1524*. The college was firft in Knight- Rider -Jlreet ; afterwards it was removed to Amen Corner ; and finally fixed here. The prefent build ipg was the work of Sir Cbriftopber. Wren. On the top of the dome is a gilt ball, which the witty Garth calls the gilded pill. On the fummit of the centre is the bird of jEJculapius, the admonifhing cock. ON one fide of the court is a ftatue of Charles II : on the op- pofite, that of the notorious Sir John Cutler. I was greatly at a lofs to learn how fo much refpect was fhcwn to a character fa ftigmatized for avarice. I think myfelf much indebted to Doc- tor WARREN for the extraordinary hiftory. It appears, by the annals of the college, that in the year 1674, a confiderable fam of money had been fubfcribed by the fellows, for the erection of a new college, the old one having been confumed in the great fire, eight years before. It alfo appears, that Sir John Cutler y a near relation of Doctor Whiftler, the prefident, was defirous of becom- ing a benefactor. A committee was appointed to wait upon Sir John, to thank him for his kind intentions. He accepted their thanks, renewed his prom ife, and fpecified the part of the build- ing of which he intended to bear the expence. In the year 1680, flames in honor of the king, and Sir John, were voted by the college : and nine years afterwards, the college being then com- * See my friend Doctor Aikin's Biographical Memoirs of Medicine, odlavo,. 1770, which a mif- judging period difcouraged him from completing. pletedj S I R J O H N C U T L E R. pleted, it was refolved to borrow money of Sir John Cutler^ to difcharge the college debt, but the fum is not fpecified. It ap- pears, however, that in 1699, Sir John's executors made a demand on the college of . 7000 , which fum was fuppofed to include the money actually lent, the money pretended to be given, but fet down as a debt in Sir John's books, and the intereft on both. Lord Radnor, however, and Mr. Boulter, Sir John Cutler's exe- cutors, were prevaled on to accept . 2000 from the college, and actually remitted the other five. So that Sir John's promife, which he never performed, obtained him the ftatue, and the libe- rality of his executors has kept it in its place ever fmce. But the college wifely have obliterated the infcription, which, in the warmth of its gratitude, it had placed beneath the figure. OMNIS CUTLERI CEDAT LABOR AMP HIT H EAT RO. PORTRAITS. I N tne o 1 " 6 ^ room are feveral portraits of gentlemen of the faculty. Among them Sir Theodore May erne, a native of Geneva, phyfician to James and Charles I. The great Sydenham, to whom thoufands owe their lives, by his daring attempt (too long neg- lefted) of the cool regimen in the fmall-pox. Harvey, who firft difcovered the circulation of the blood. And the learned and pious Sir Thomas Brown, who faid that the difcovery of that great man's, was preferable to the difcovery of the New World. SIR Edmund King, the famous transfufer of blood from one animal into another j a difcovery, if purfued, of infinite confe- quence, in a moral, as well as a phyfical light. A VERY good portrait of the anatomifl Vefalius, on board, by John Calkar, a painter from the dutchy of Cle-ves, who died in 1546, This celebrated character had filled the profeffor's chair at PORTRAITS. at Venice \ after that, was for fome time phyfician to Charles V. Difgufted with the manners of a court, he determined on a voyage to the Holy Land. The republic of Venice fent to him to fill the profeflbrfliip of medicine at Padua, vacant by the death of Fallo- pius. On his return, in 1564, he was fhipwrecked on the ifle of Zanta y where he perifhed by hunger. Doctor Goodal, the Stentor of Garth's, difpenfary j and Doctor Millington, whom the witty author compliments with the follow- ing lines, and, from what I underftand, with great juftice j Macbaon, whofe experience we adore, Great as your matchlefs merit is your power: At your approach the baffl'd tyrant Death Breaks his keen (hafts, and grinds his clashing teeth. THE portrait of Doftor Freind, the hiftorian of phyfic, and the moft able in his profefiion, and the moft elegant writer of his time, muft not be omitted. The fine bufts of Harvey, Sy den- bam, and Mead, the phyfician of our own days, merit attention : and with them I clofe the diftinguifhed lift. THE library was furnifhed with books by Sir Theodore May erne. And it received a confiderable addition from the marquis of Dorchefter. WARWICK-LANE took its name from its having in it the inn or houfe of Richard Nevil, the great earl of Warwick, whofe popularity and manner of living merits recital. " Stow men- " tions his coming to London, in the famous convention of 1458, cc with 600 men, all in red jackets imbrodered, with ragged " ftaves, before and behind, and was lodged in Warwicke-lane :' ts in whofe houfe there was often fix oxen eaten at a breakfaft, " and every taverne was full of his meate, for hee that had any 8 " acquaintance ANTIENT HOUSE OF THE DUKES OF BR.ETAGNY. STATIONERS ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. STATIONERS HALL. " acquaintance in that houfe, might have there fo much of fod- ** den and rou; meate, as he could pricke and carry upon a long " dagger*." .THE memory of this king-making eanl is ftill preferved by a fine ftone ftatue, placed in the front of a houfe in this lane, within two or three doors of the fouth fide of Newgate -ftreet. NOT far from hence, near Ave Maria-lane, flood a great houfe of ftone and wood, belonging, in old times, to John duke of Bretagny, and earl of Richmond, cotemporary with Edward II. and III j after him it was poflefled by the earls of Pembroke, in the time of Richard II. and Henry VI -, and, in the time of queen Elizabeth, by Henry lord Abergavenny. To finifli the anti-climax, it was finally poflefled .by the Company of Stationers, who rebuilt it of wood, and made it their hall. It was deftroyed by the great fire i and was fucceeded ~by the prefent plain building. The preceding owners might boaft of their nobility ; their fucceflbrs of their wealth ; for in that fad calamity, lord Clarendon eftimated that the lofs of the company did not amount to lefs than two hun- dred thoufand pounds. THE cathedral of St. Paul more than fills the fpace of Ludgate- kill. The beft authority we have for the origin of this church, is from its great reftorer Sir CHRISTOPHER WREN. His opinion, that there had been a church on this fpot, built by the Chriftians in the time of the Romans, was confirmed: when he fearched for the foundations for his own defign, he met with thofe of the ori- ginal freflyterium, or femicircular .chancel of the old church. They confided only of Kentijh rubble-ftone, artfully worked, and S tow's Survaie, 130. confolidated ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. , 329 cunfolidated with exceeding hard mortar, in the Roman manner, much excelling the fupcrftru&ure *. He explodes the notion of there having been here a temple of Diana, and the difcovery of the horns of animals ufed in the facrifkes to that goddels, on which the opinion had been founded, no fuch. having been dif- covered in all his fearches f. What was found, is mentioned in the 9th page of this book. THE firft church is fuppofed to have been deflroyed in the Diode/tan perfecution, and to have been rebuilt in the reign of Conftantine. This was again demoliflied by the pagan Saxons ; and reftored, in 603, by Sebcrt, a petty prince, ruling in thefe parts under Ethelbert king of Kent, the firft Chriftian monarch of die Saxon race ; who, at the inftance of St. Auguft'me> appointed Meli- tus the firft bilhop of London. Erkenwald, the fon of king Offa y fourth in fucceflion from Mditus, ornamented his cathedral very highly, and improved the revenues with his own patrimony. He was moft defervedly canonized} for the very litter in which he was carried in his laft illnefs, continued many centuries to cure fevers by the touch} and the very chips, carried to the fick, reftored . them to health, WHEN the city of London was deftroyed by fire, in 1086, this church was burnt} the bifliop Mauritius began to rebuild it, and laid the foundations, which remained till its fecond deftruftion, from the fame caufe, in the laft century. Notwithftanding Mauri- tius lived twenty years after he had begun this pious work, and * Parentalia, 266. f The fame, 272. U u bifliop 33* bifhop Bsauvages enjoyed the fee twenty more, yet, fuch was the grandeur of the defign, that it remained unfinifhed. The firft had the ruins of the Palatine tower beftowed on him, as materials for the building : and Henry I. beftowed on Beauvages part of the ditch belonging to the Tower, which, with purchafes made by himfelf, enabled him to inclofe the whole with a wall. The fame monarch granted befides, that every fhip, which brought ftone for the church, fhould be exempted from toll ; he gave him alfo all the great fiih taken in his precincts, except the tongues j and laftly, he fecured to him and his fucceflbr, the delicious tythes of all his venifon in the county of Effex. THE fteeple was finifhed in 1221. The noble fubterraneous church of St. Faith, Ecclejia Banff # Fidis in cry-ptis, was begun in 1257. It was fupported by three rows of many cluftered pillars, with ribs diverging from them to fupport the folemn roof. This was the parifh church. This undercroft, as thefe fort of build- ings were called, had in it feveral chauntries and monuments. Henry Lade, earl of Lincoln, who died in 1312, made what was called the New Work, at the eaft end, in which was the chapel of our Lady, and that of St. Dunftan. CHAPTER- THE Ghapter-houfe was adjoining to the fouth tranfept, was circular, and fupported by four central pillars, and of more elegant gotbic than, the reft of the building. This projected into a moft beautiful cloifter, two ftories high. On the walls was painted the Machabre, or dance of death, a common fubjecl on the walls of cloifters or religious places. This was a fingle piece, a long train of all orders of men, from the pope to the loweft of human be- ings j each figure has as his partner, Death -, the firft fhaking his remembering ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 33l remembering hour-glafs *. Our old poet Lydgate, who flourifhcd in the year 1430, tranflated a poem on the fubjeft, from the French verfes which attended a painting of the fame kind about St. Innocent's cloifter, at Paris. The original verfes were made by Afaclabfr, a German, in his own language. This fhews the antiquity of the fubjeft, and the origin of the hint from which Holbein compofed his famous painting at Bafil. THIS cloifter, the dance, and innumerable fine monuments (for here were crowded by far the moft fuperb) fell victims to the facrilege of the protector Somerfet y who demolifhed the whole, and carried the materials to his palace then erecting in the Strand. FARTHER to the weft, adjoining to. this fouth fide, was the parilh church of St. Gregory. Over it was one of the towers which ornamented the weftern front. It was called the Lollards 'Tower, and was the biihop's prifon for the heterodox, in which was com- mitted many a midnight murder. That of Richard Hunn, in 1514, was one moft foul j he was committed there j he was hanged there by the contrivance of the chancellor of the diocefe, Horfey j he was fcandalized with filicide ; his corpfe was ignomi- nioufly buried. The murder came out j the coroner's inqueft fat on the afhes, and they brought in a verdict of wilful murder againft Horfey and his accomplices. The bifhop, Fitzjames, de- fended them. The king interfered, and ordered the murderers to make reftitution to the children of the deceafed, to the amount of fifteen hundred pounds. Yet the perpetrators of this villainy efcaped with a pardon, notwithftanding the king, in his order, * DugdalJs Monnjt. i. 367 ; in which both print and verfes are preferved. Sec Dugdale's S{. Paul, 134, and Stoiv's Survaie? 616. U u 2 fpeaks 332 ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. fpeaks to them as having commited what himfelf ftyles the cruel murder *. THE laft perfon confined here was Peter Burcbet of the Temp!g y who, in 1 573, defperately wounded our famous feaman Sir Richard Hawkins, in the open llreet, whom he had miftaken for Sir ChriJ- topber Hatton. He was committed to this prifon, and afterwards removed to the I'ower ; he there ^barbaroufly murdered j- one of his keepers j he was tried, convicted, had his right hand ftruck off, and then hanged. He was found to be a violent emhufiaft, who thought it lawful to kill fuch who oppofed the truth of the gofpel. THE ftyle of the antient cathedral was a moft beautiful gothic ; over the eaft end was a moft elegant circular window; alterations were made in the ends of the two tranfepts, fo that their form is not delivered down to us in the antient plans j from the central tower rofe a lofty and moft graceful fpire. DIMENSIONS OF THE dimenfions of this noble temple, as taken in 1309, were THE CHURCH. thefe: the length fix hundred and ninety feet ; the breadth a hun- dred and twenty j the height of the roof of the weft part, from the floor, one hundred and two j of the eaft part, a hundred and eighty-eight j of the tower, two hundred and fixty ; of the fpire, which was made of wood covered with lead, two hundred and feventy-four. The whole Ipace the church occupied was three acres and a half, one rood and a half, and fix perches . WE may be aftoniflied at this amazing building, and naturally Fox's Martyrs, ii. 8 to 14. f Stew, 690. Kennef, ii. 449* J Dugdale, 17. enquire ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. enquire what fund could fupply money to fupport fo vaft an ex- pence. But monarchs refigned their revenues refulting from the cuftoms due for the materials, which were brought to the adjacent wharfs ; they furnifhed woqd from the royal forefts : prelates gave up much of their revenues ; and, what was more than all, by the pious bait of indulgences, and remiflions of penance, brought in, from the good people of this realm, molt amazing fums. Pope Innocent III. in 1252, gave a releafe of fixty days penance: the archbiftiop of Cologne gave, a few years before, a relaxation of fifty days : Boniface, archbifhop of Canterbury, forty days. In brief, there was not a prelate who did not, in this manner, excite his flock to contribute liberally to this great and pious defign. THE nave was fupported by cluttered pillars and round arches, the ftyle preferved by the Normans, after the conquered Saxons* The galleries and windows of the tranfepts were alfo finifhed with rounded arches. The fkreen to the choir, and the cha- pel -of our Lady, were gothic. The fkreen remarkably elegant, ornamented with ftatues on each fide of the door, at the expence of Sir Paul Pindar *. We are obliged to the induftry of Hollar, for preferving this knowlege of its antient ftate. His great em- ployer Sir William Dugdale, and that eminent artift, were fortu- nately coeval. The pen of the one, and the burine of the other, were in full vigour, before the ravages of the great fire, on multi- tudes of the choice antiquities of our capital. To the fame dif- tinguifhed characters we owe our acquaintance with the tombs : but we are not to expect in this church the number, nor the ele- gance, of thofe of Weftminfter. St. Peter, the porter of heaven, * See <&/*'; St, Paul, p, 143. plates marked -145-6 -7-8. had 334 ETHELRBD AND SEBBA. /OH OF GAUNT. SHRINE OF ST. ERKENWALD. Dugdalc, 114. TOMBS IN THE had far the preference to the tutelar faint of this cathedral, Few crowned heads crowded here, except Ethelred and Set&a, founders of the church ; and of Saxon race, none were found within thefc walls. BUT if they were deprived of that boaft, they had the honor of receiving the remains of Old John of Gaunt t time-honored Lancajter I the brother, father, and uncle of kings. He died in 13995 and bad a moft magnificent tomb erected over him, ruined by the fanatical foldiery of the laft century. He, and his 6rft wife Blancb, lay recumbent beneath a rich canopy of tabernacle work j his creft upon his abacoc, or cap of ftate j his Ihield, and his mighty fpear, were hung on his monument as fo many tro- phies. IN point of time, as well as fanctity, the rich gotbic ihrine of St. Erkenwald fhould have preceded j which relied on his plain altar tomb. No wonder if, on account of the miracles before mentioned, this Ihrine was a great refort of pious devotees, It was enriched with gold, filver, and pretious ftones, by the dean and chapter, who, in 1339, employed three goldfmiths to work on it a whole year j the wages of the moft expert was only eight Shillings a week, the other two five fhillings, Of the gifts from devotees, that of Richard de Pre/ton, of London t grocer, was moft valuable, being his beft fapphire ftones, there to remain for cur- ing of infirmities in the eyes *. e, 23. See Boetkiu: de Lapid. et Gem. 184; who treats of the vir- tues of the fapphyr. THE ANTIENT CHURCH. THE fhrine of Roger Niger y bifliop of London in the thirteenth century, was alfo in high repute. A vifit to his fhrine was fre- quently enjoined to the indulgences given for the rebuilding of this church. HENRY LACIE, the great earl of Lincoln, an eminent warrior under Edward I. particularly in the Weljh wars, was buried in that part of the church of his own building, called the New Work. He died at his houfe in town, called Lincoln's -Inn* He is armed in mail j his body covered with a fhort gown j his legs crofled, for he had either the merit of vifiting the Holy Land, or (which would entitle him to a right to that attitude) made a vow to per- form that expiatory privilege. SIR John Beauchamp, a younger fon of Guy earl of Warwick, in 1360 was interred here. His figure lay armed, and recum- bent. He was one of the founders of the order of the Garter ; and diftinguilhed himfelf, in the martial reign of Edward III. by numbers of gallant actions by fea and by land. THAT accomplifhed knight, the ill-fated Sir Simon de Burley, lay here in complete armour, under a moft elegant gotbic arch. I have mentioned his fad (lory at p. 260. fo will not repeat the fubject. Here was depofited, in 1468, (fevered from her hufband the great John T allot, who was interred at Wbicburcb, in Sbrop- Jhire) Margaret countefs of Shrew/bury. A monument was de- figned by the friendfhip of one John Wenlok, at the expence of a hundred pounds ; but, from fome unknown caufe, the infcription only was executed. WILLIAM earl of Pembroke, an active character in the reigns of Henry VIII. Mary, Edward VI. and Elizabeth, with his firft countefs 33 S SHRINE OF ROGER NJC&A. Dugdalt. 86. EARL or Li NCOLN.' Dugdalt, 84. SIR JOHK BEAUCHAMP, Dugdale, 52. SIR SIMON DB BURLEY. Dugdalt, 104. WILLIAM OF PEMBROKE. Dugdale, 88, TOMBS IN THE countefs dune*, fitter to Catherine Parre, queen to Henry VIII. who dying atBtynard Cqftle, in 1551* was interred here with vaft folemniry. The portraits of ^nnt and her lord, in painted glafs, tire ftill extant in the chapel at Wilton, and ought to be engrav- ed f. The earl followed her in 1569. They lay beneath a mag- nificent canopy divided into two arches j at their head, kneeling, is their daughter Anne lady fallot j at their feet, in the fame atti- tude, their fons Henry earl of Pembroke, and Sir Edward Herbert) of Pool, i, e. Po'wis Cajlle, anceilor of the carls of Powss. DBAS COLET. AT the expence of the Mercers Company was erefted a monu- ment to the memory of John Cokt, the learned' dean of $t. Paul's, the intimate of Erafmus, and all the eminent fcholars of the time. This compliment was payed him by the Mercers, becaufe his father had been of their company, and twice lord mayor. He was, in the beginning of life, luxurious, high-fpirited, and fubjeft to excefs in mirth -, and ufed a freedom of fpeech which he after~ wards corrected. He thought too much for the clergy of his days j and often expofed the corruptions of the church. This fubjected him to perfecution, but he efcaped unhurt. At length he determined to retire from the world j which he quitted for a better in 1519. He dedicated his great fortune to the founding of the fchool of St. Paul's, in honor of Cbrifi Jeju in fueritia, for a hundred and fifty-three fcholars. A handfome houfe is built for this purpofe, under the care of the Mercers Company. His monu- ment had his buft in terra eotta, drefied in a gown and fquare cap j and beneath it, a fkeleton laid on a mat rolled up under its head. * Dugdale*s Baron, ii. 359, f Mr. WALPOLE. THAT A N T I E N T CHURCH. THAT great and honed man, Sir Nicholas Bacon, lay here re- cumbent, and, notwithftanding he was a gownfman, was fingu- larly clad in complete armour : beneath him are his two wives, in gowns and fhort ruffs. SIR PHILIP SYDNEY, the delight of the age, the mod he- roic and virtuous character of his time, had no more than a board with a mod wretched infcription of eight verfes, to record a fame which nothing can injure. His remains were brought here on Jan. 1 6, 1586, with the utmod magnificence. There was a general mourning for him, and it was accounted indecent, for many months, for any gentleman to appear at court, or in the city, in gay apparel *. The partiality of an individual may mif- take the qualities of a friend j but the tedimony of a whole na- tion puts his merits beyond difpute. THE memory of the great Waljingham alfo reds on his own deferts. He died fo poor, that his friends were obliged to deal his remains into their grave, for fear lead they diould be arreded. By accident was left an old book of legends, which I purchafed ; an antient manufcript-lid of datefmen in the reign of Elizabeth, configned by the writer to the pains of hell, for their zeal againd the Catholics. The id, Leicefter, all infre, died 1588 : id, Wai- fingham, the Secretarie, alfo in fre and flames. He died, Aj>. 6, 1590. No wonder, fmce he could contrive to get the pope's pocket picked, when his holinefs was afleep, of the keys of a cabinet, by which he made himfelf mader of an original letter of the fird importance, which proved the faving of our ifland from the machinations of its enemies. 337 SIR NICHOLAS BACON. Dugdaltt 71. SIR PH in* SYDNEY. Dugdaie, ill. WALSINGHAM. Dugdaie, i oi. * Memoirs of the SyJnits, p. 109. X x As 338 THE HIGH ALTAR. OWEN THE EPI- GRAMMATIST. Dugdalt. DOCTOR DONNE. Dugdalt, 62. THE HIGH ALTAR. As a Weljkman, I mud not pafs over the quibbling epitaph of the quibbling epigrammatift, my countryman John Owen, born at Uanarnwn, in Caernarvon/hire, educated at Winchefter, and elected fellow of New College*. He lived under the patronage of archbifhop Williams, and died in 1623. Parva tibi ftatua, quia parva ftatura, fupellex Parva, volat parvus perora liber. Scd non parvus honos, non parva eft gloria, quippe Ingenio haud quicquatn eft majus in orbe tuo. Parva domus texit, templum fed grande, poetz Turn vere vitam, quum. moriuntur, agunt. I WILL conclude with the melancholy corfe of Doctor Donne, the wit of his time, {landing in a nich, and wrapped in a fhroud gathered about his head; with his feet refting on an urn. Not long before his death, he dreflcd himfelf in that funebrial habit, placed his feet on an urn fixed on a board exactly of his own height, and, fhutting his eyes, like a departed perfon, was drawn in that attitude by a fkilful painter. This gloomy piece he kept in his room till the day of his death, on March 31, 1631 j after which it ferved as a pattern for his tomb. IT will be endlefs to enumerate the altars of this vaft temple, numerous as thofe of the Pantheon. I content myfelf with the mention of the High Altar, which dazzled with gems and gold, the gifts of its numerous votaries. John, king of France, when prifoner in England, firft paying his refpects to St. Erkenwald's fhrine, offered four bafons of gold : and the gifts at the * Athene Oxon. i, 470. 2 obfequies ASINGULAROFFERING. 339 obfequies of princes, foreign and Briti/h, were of immenfe value. On the day of the converfion of the tutelar faint, the charities were prodigious, firft to the fouls, when an indulgence of forty days pardon was given, verepamitentibuSy contritis et confers j and, by order of Henry HI. fifteen hundred tapers were placed in the church, and fifteen thoufand poor people fed in the church- yard. BUT the moft fingular offering was that of a fat doe in winter, SIWCULA* Gr- and a buck in fummer, made at the high altar, on the day of the commemoration of the faint, by Sir William de Baude and his family, and then to be diftributed among the canons refident. This was in lieu of twenty-two acres of land in Eff~ex> which did belong to the canons of this church. Till queen Elizabeth's days, the doe or buck was received folemnly, at the fteps of the high altar, by the dean and chapter, attired in their facred veftments, and crowned with garlands of rofes. " They fent the body of " the bucke to baking, and had the head, fixed on a pole, borne and to compliment Henry with the order of St. Michael^.. And in 1546, the French ambaffador Claude. Annebau, admiral of France y was fplcndidly lodged in the fame * Frci/art, Eng, t ran/I, ii. civ. f Holinjhed, 789. \ Sec the fame, g. 898. place; 34* P A U L'S C R O S S : place*. He was a favorite of Francis I.. and fentover to make peace between Charles V. his mafter, and Henry. IN the reign of Edward VI. the queen dowager of Scotland was here entertained. The dean's houfe, and the houfes of the prebendaries and refidentiaries, were on the oppofite fide ; and, in thofe days of plain living, kept great houfholds and liberal hof- pitality f- PAUL'S CROSS. BEFORE this cathedral was the famous Paul's Crofs t a pul- pit formed of wood, mounted upon fteps of ftone, and co- vered with lead, in which the moft eminent divines were ap- pointed to preach every Sunday in the forenoon. To this place, _*he court, the mayor, and aldermen, and principal citizens, ufed to refort. The greateft part of the congregation fat in the open air ; the king and his train had covered galleries ; and the better fort of people, if I may judge from the old prints, were alfo pro- tected from the injury of the weather; but the far greater part ftood expofed in the open a'ir : for which reafon the preacher went, TUB SHROWDS. in very bad weather, to a place called the Shrowds ; a covered fpace on the fide of the church, to protect the congregation in inclement feafons. Considerable contributions were raifed among the nobility and citizens, to fupport fuch preachers as were (as was often the cafe) called to town from either of the univerfities. In particular, the lord mayor and aldermen ordered that every preacher, who came from a diftance, fhould be freely accommo- dated, during five days, with fweet and convenient lodgings, fire, candle, and all necefiaries. And notice was given by the bifhop MaitlanJ, ii. 880. f The fame. Of ITS USES, AND DEMOLITION. 343 of London, to the preacher appointed by him, of the place he wa* to repair to. THE origin of the cuftom of preaching at crofTes, was proba- bly accidental. The fanctity of this fpecies of pillar often caufed a great refort of people, to pay their devotion to the great object of their erection. A preacher, feeing a large concourfe, might be feized by a fudden impulfe, afcend the fteps, and deliver out his pious advice from a ftation fo fit to infpire attention, and fo con- veniently formed for the purpofe. The example might be fol- lowed, till the practice became eflablilhed by cuftom. IT certainly at firft was a common crofs, and coeval with the church. When it was firft covered, and converted into a pulpit- crofs, we are not informed. We are given to underftand that it was overthrown by an earthquake in 1382, and that William. Courtney, then archbifhop of Canterbury, collected great fums for the rebuilding ; which, fays dean Nowel, in a fermon he preached at this crofs, he applied to his own ufe. Courtney was a moft munificent prelate, and not likely to abufe the charity of his flock j yet it was not rebuilt till the time of Thomas Kemp, elected bifhop of London in 1449, wno finifhed it in the form, fays God- win, in which we fee it at prefent * j and fo it flood till it was demolifhed, in 1643, by order of parlement, executed by the willing hands of IJaac Pennington, the fanatical lord mayor of that year, who died in the Tower, a convicted regicide. WE hear of this being in ufe as early as the year 1259.. It was ufed not only for the inftruction of mankind, by the doctrine of the preacher, but for every purpofe political or ecclefiaftical : for * Prajul. Angl. 248. GtJ-win publiftied his book in 1616. giving THEPENANCEOF giving force to oaths, for promulging of laws, or rather the royal pleafure, for the emiflion of papal bulls, for anathematizing fin- ners, for benedictions, for expofing of penitents under cenfure of the church, for recantations, for the private ends of the ambi- tious, and for the defaming of thofe who had incurred the difplea- fure of crowned heads. IN 1259, Henry III. commanded the lord mayor to fwear, be- fore the aldermen, every perfon of twelve years and upwards, to be true to him and his heirs. IN 1262, the fame monarch caufed the bull of Urban IV. to be here made public, as an abfolution of him and his adherents, who had fworn to obferve the Oxford provifions, made in the vio- lent meeting at that city in 1258, called the mad parliament. HERE, in 1299, Ralph de Baldoc, dean of St. Paul's, curfed all thofe who had fearched, in the church of St. Martin in the Fields, for a hoard of gold, &c. THBIENANCK BsFOKE this crofs, in 1483, was brought, diverted of all her TANESHORE. fplendor, Jane Shore y the charitable, the merry concubine of Edward IV. and, after his death, of his favorite, the unfor- tunate Lord Haftings. After the lofs of her protectors, (he fell a victim to the malice of crook-backed Richard. He was difap- pointed (by her excellent defence) of convicting her of witch- craft, and confederating with her lover to deftroy him. He then attacked her on the weak fide of frailty. This was undeniable. He configned her to the feverity of the church : (he was carried to the bifhop's palace, cloathed in a white fheet, with a taper in her hand, and from thence conducted to the cathedral, and the crofs, before which (he made a confeflion of her only fault. Every other virtue bloomed in this ill-fated fair with the fulleft vigour. She could JANE SHORE. 345 could not refift the folicitations of a youthful monarch, the hand- fomeft man of his time. On his death fhe was reduced to ne- cefiity, fcorned by the world, and caft off by her hufband, with whom fhe was paired in her childifh years, and forced to fling herfelf into the arms of Ha/tings. " In her penance fhe went," fays Holinjhedy " in countenance and pafe demure, fo womanlie, * c that, albeit fhe were out of all araie, fave hir kirtle onlie, yet A burning taper in her hand ihe bore, And on her fhoulders carelefsly confus'd, With loofe negleft, her lovely trefles hung ; Upon her cheek a faintilh flufli was fpread ; Feeble fhe feem'd, and forely finit with pain, While, barefoot as (he trod the flinty pavement, Her footfteps all along were mark'd with blood. Yet filent ftill fhe pafs'd, and unrepining ; * Hulinjhed, 724. Y y Her 346 JANE SHORE : HER PERSON DESCRIBED. Her ftreaming eyes bent ever on the earth. Except when, in fome bitter pang of forrow, To Heav'n file feem'd in fervent zeal to raife, And beg that mercy man deny'd her here. THE poet has adopted the fable of her being denied all fufte- nance, and of her perifhing with hunger ; but that was not fact. She lived to a great age, but in great diftrefs and miferable po- verty j deferted even by thofe to whom fhe had, during profpe- rity, done the mofl eflential fervices. She dragged a wretched life, even to the time of Sir Thomas More, who introduces her ftory into his life of Edward V. The beauty of her perfon is fpoken of in high terms : " Proper flie was, and faire : nothing " in hir bodie that you would have changed ; but you would " have wifhed hit fomewhat higher. Thus faie they that knew Cf hir in hir youth. Now is fhe old, leane, withered, and dried " up; nothing left but ri veiled fkin and hard bone j and yet, " being even fuch, who fo well advife her vifage, might gefle " and devife, which parts how rilled would make it a fairc " face *." THE late ingenious the Reverend Mr. MUhael Tyfon, made me a prefent of an etching of this unfortunate fair, done by him- fclf from the original in the provoft's lodgings, in King's college y Cambridge. Her hair is curled in Ihort curls high above her neck, and mixed with chains of jewels fet in a lozenge form : her neck and body, as far beneath her arms, are naked ; the firft has two firings of pearls hanging loofe round it : over her fhoulders is a rich chain of jewels fet in circles, and pendant from the Holinjbtd, 724. 5 middle, TRANSACTIONS AT PAUL'S CROSS. 347 middle, which hangs down her bread, is a rich lozenge of jewels, and to each link is affixed one or more pearls. In her counte- nance is no appearance of charms; fhe mufl have attracted the hearts of her lovers by her intellectual beauties. UNDER her cruel perfecutor, this pulpit-crofs became the feat PROSTITUTI of proftituted eloquence. The ufurper made ufe of Doctor Shaw, PREACHER*. brother to his creature the lord mayor, and friar Pinke, an AuguJ- tine, (both, fays Stow, doctors of divinity, both great preach- ers, both of more learning than virtue) as his engines. They addreffed the people, and inferred the baftardy of his brother's children, and enlarged on the great qualities of their ambitious employers. But Pinke loft his voice in the middle of his fermon, and was forced to defcend : and Shaw was afterwards ftruck with fuch remorfe, finding himfelf defpifed by all the world, that he foon after died of a broken heart *. ROYAL contracts of marriage were notified to the people from ROYAL COK- this place. Thus that between Margaret, daughter of Henry VII. L RACTf OF and James the IVth of Scotland, was here declared in 1501 3 I'e Deum was fung, twelve bonfires fet a blazing, and twelve hogf- heads of Gafcoigne wine given to the populace f. BUT the mofl famous preachments ever made here, were thofe PAPAL BULLS done by order of Henry VIII j who compelled the bifhop of Lon- don to fend up to Paules Crofs, from Sonday to Sonday, preachers to preach down the pope's authority ; to (hew to the people that he was no more than the fimple bifhop of Rome, and that his ufurpations were only the effect of the negligence of the princes * See Fabian, 515. Holinjhed, 7*5. Slew's Annals, 451. f Stew's dnnals, 483. Y y 2 of NOTABLE TRANSACTIONS Pf NITINCE OF HENRY VIII. of this realm*. And thus his holinefs's bulls were fairly baited out of the kingdom by his own dogs. FROM this pulpit was proclaimed to the people, by Henry Hoi- betcb, bifliop of Rochefter, the death-bed remorfe of the fame tyrant j who, finding the ftroke inevitable, he ordered the church of the Grey Friars, which he had converted into a ftore-houfe, to be cleared of the goods, and opened for divine fervice, and prefented by patent to the city, for the relieving of the poor f. RECANTATIONS. MANY are the examples of perfons bearing the faggot, and of making public recantation of their faith y of both religions, at this place. The Reformers bore that badge as a mark of their efcape : the Catholics were excufed from the burning, therefore were excufed from the burden. The laft who appeared, was a feminary pried, who, in 1 5 93, made his recantation. In 1537, Sir Thomas Newman y prieft, bore the faggot here on a fingular occafion, for.finging mafs with good ale. To this place Henry Grey, duke of Suffolk, fent his chaplain, Harding, to difluade the people from revolting from their allegiance to queen Mary J : yet, actuated by weaknefs and ambition, concurred in fetting up his unhappy daughter, Jane Grey, in oppofition to his right- ful fovereign. WE are told in Strype's Memorials, III. 21, that queen Mary made ufe of the fame arts in the fame place, and appointed feve- ral of her belt divines to preach the old religion, and her defign of reftoring the antient worfhip : but fo averfe were the people, * Weewr's Funeral Monuments, 91, 92.. f Store's Survaie, 591. J Fox's Martyrs. that AT PAUL'S CROSS. that the attempt was attended with great tumults. Thefe flie allayed by the temporary expedients of fire and faggot. THE reign of queen Elizabeth was wifely ufliered in by the ap- pointment of good and able men to preach from this Crofs the doctrine of the Reformation, and rejection of the Papal power * ; in which politics were naturally intermixed. This began April the pth, 1559, with doctor Bill, the queen's almoner i he was fol- lowed by Grindai, Horn, Jewel, Sandys, and many others, who foon after enjoyed the higheft dignities in our church.. THE fame heroine, giving way to a mod ungenerous pafllon, caufed from this pulpit the memory of her once- beloved Effex to be blackened j to fuffer " the indignity of a fermon at Paul's Crofs, fet out in command. Some fparks of indignation re- " maining in the queen, that were unquenched even by his blood f." IT was more worthily employed, . when her majefty caufed from thence a fermon of thankfgiving to Providence, in 1588, for thefignal deliverance her fubjects received from ti\z invincible armada of Philip II. AFTER the battle of St. Quintin, her predecefibr, queen Mary, caufed doctor Harpsfield to preach a fermon, and from this Crofs to give the people information of the victory gained by the ge- neral of her hufband, Philip of Spain, over the French, and of the fucceeding capture of St. Quintin ; before which that mo- narch, the only time in his life, appeared clad in armour. IN 1596, while the lord mayor and aldermen were attending a fermon at this place, they received an order from the queen, to 349 * Strype's Annals, i. 133, f Wotton's Remains, edit. 3d. p. 193. THE RIFORMA. TION PREACH- ED FROM HENCE. ESSEX CALUM- NIATED. DEFEAT OF THB ARMADA AN- NOUNCED. BATTLE OF ST. QUINTIM. LEVIES IXCITEB. levy 35 JAMES I. HEARS A SERMON AT THE CROSS. SPIRE OF THE CHURCH BURNT. SPIRE OF ST. PAUL'S BURNT, levy a thoufand able-bodied men. They quitted their devotions, and performed their commifiion before eight at night, and had them ready armed for their march before morning. The fervice they were defigned for was to affift the French in raifing the fiege of Calais, then befieged by the Spaniards -, but the place being taken by the time they reached Dover, they returned to the city, after a week's abfence. From the ufual policy of Elizabeth, it i& poflible the fermon and order were both preconcerted ; the mo- ment of devotion being the apteft to infpire zeal, and promote an enthufiaftic ardor in the people to fly to a ftandard raifed againft a nation fo detefted, and fo inimical to our religion and liberties, as the Spaniards. THE laft fermon which was preached at this place, was before James I. who came in great ftate on horfeback from Whitehall, on Midlent Sunday ', 1620 : he was received at Temple Bar by the lord mayor and aldermen, who prefented him with a purfe of gold. At St. Paul's he was received by the clergy in their richeft veftments. Divine fervice was performed, attended with organs, cornets, and fagbots j after which his majefty went to a prepared place, and heard a fermon at the Crofs, preached by John King, bifhop of London. The object of the fermon was the repairing of the cathedral. The king and the principal perfons retired from the Crofs to the bifhop's palace, to confult on the matter, and, after a magnificent banquet, the court returned to Whitehall *. I WILL not mention the different misfortunes this cathedral ex- perienced, except the laft, previous to its final deftruclion by the great fire. In 1561, the noble fpire was totally burnt by light- S tow's Annals, 1033. H(ft t London, I. book iii. 151. nmg, THE CHURCH REPAIRED. ning, and never reftored. This circumftance (hews the date of 1560, to dggas\ famous furvey of London, to have been erroneous : he having given the church without the fpirej which he never could have omitted, had it exifted at that time. IN confequence of the refolutions taken in 1620, by James I. to repair the cathedral, the celebrated Inigo Jones was appointed to the work. But it was not attempted till the year 1633, when Laud laid the firft ftone, and Inigo the fourth. That great ar- chitect begun with a moft -notorious impropriety, giving to the weft end a portico of the Corinthian order (beautiful indeed) to this antient gothic pile * ; and to the ends of the two tranfepts gothic fronts in a moft horrible ftyle. The great fire made way for the reftoring of this magnificent pile by Sir CHRISTOPHER WREN, an architect worthy of fo great a defign. I will not at- tempt to defcribe fo well-known a building; the defcription is well done in feveral books eafy to be had f. Sir Cbriftophtr made a model in wood of his firft conception for rebuilding this church, in the Roman ftyle. He had in it an eye to the lofs of the Putyit-crofs, and had fupplied its place by a magnificent auditory within, for the reception of a large congregation. This was approved by men of excellent judgment, but laid afide un- der the notion it had not fufficiently a temple like form. A fe- cond was made, felected out of various (ketches he had drawn ; on this defign Sir Chriftopher fet a high value : but this alfo was * Partntalia, 273. f London and its Environs defcribed, in fixvols. 8vo. 1761 Stranger's Guide through London, duod. 1786 Befides the larger works, fuch as, Wren's Pa- rtnteliaMattland's London Strife's edition of Stow, &c. rejeded. ST. PAUL'S REBUILT AFTER THE FIRE: rejected *. The third, which produced the prefent noble pile, was approved and executed. A fingular accident happened at the beginning : while the great architect was fetting out the dimen- fions of the dome, he ordered a common laborer to bring him a flat ftone, to be laid as a direction to the mafons ; he brought a fragment of a graveftone, on which was the word RESURGAM. This was not loft on Sir Chrijlopher ; he caught the idea of the Phoenix, which he placed on thefouth Portico, with that word cut beneath. THE firft ftone was laid on June 21, 1675 ; and the building was completed by him in lyiof; but the whole decorations were not finifhed till 1723 J. It was a moft fingular circumftance, that, notwithftanding it was thirty-five years in building, it was begun and finifhed by one architect, and under one prelate, Henry Comp- A/, bifhop of London. The church of St. Peter's was a hun- dred and thirty-five years in building, in the reigns of nineteen popes, and went through the hands of twelve architects. It is not, as often miftaken, built after the model of that famous tem- ple : it is the entire conception of our great countryman; and has been preferred in fome refpects, by a judicious writer, to even the Roman Bafilica. Its dimenfions are lefs. The compara- tive view is given in the Parentalia, and copied in London and its Environs. I will only mention the great outlines : the height of St. Peter's, to the top of the crofs, is four hundred and thirty- feven feet and a half; that of St. Paul's, three hundred and .forty feet : fo that, from its fituation, it is lofty enough to be feen * Parent alia, 282. J- The fame, 292. J Maitland, ii. from ITS DIMENSIONS; ALSO, ST. PETER'S. 353 from the fea. The length of the firft, is (even hundred and twenty-nine feet; of the latter, five hundred. The greateft 'breadth of St. Peter 's is three hundred and fixty-four; of St. Paul's, one hundred and eighty. IN the reigns of James I. and Charles I. the body of this ca- thedral was the common refort of the politicians, the news-moor gers, and idle in general. It was called Paul's walk, and the frequenters known by the name of Paul's walkers. It is men- tioned in the old plays, and other books of the times. The fol- lowing droll defcription may poffibly give fome amufement to the reader : " IT is the land's epitome, or you may call it the lefler ile of men of long rapiers and breeches, which " after all turne merchants here, and trafficke for nevves. Some " make it a preface to their dinner, and travell for a ftomacke : " but thriftier men make it their ordinarie, and boord here verie- " cheape. Of all fuch places it is leaft haunted with hobgoblins,. move he could not *.'* STATUE OF T HE ftatue of queen Anne y of white marble, with the figures of Britain, France, Ireland) and America at the bafe, is placed be- fore the weftern front. This rofe from the chizzel of Francis Birdy as did the converfion of St. Paul in the pediment^ and the bas-reliefs under the portico f . Let the fine irony of Sir Samuel Garthy whofe fpirit lay dormant till it rofe in later days wrapped in the Iheets of the eloquent Junius, conclude all I have faid of this majeftic pile* Near the vaft bulk of that flupendous frame Known by the Gentiles great Apoftle's name>. * Microcofmograpbie, 1628. f Anecdotes of Painting, iii. L5>> With- With grace divine, great Anna's feen to rife, An awful form that glads a nation's eyes : Beneath her feet four mighty realms appear, And with due reverence pay their homage there. Britain and Ireland feem to own her grace, And ev'n wild India wears a fmiling face. But France alone with downcaft eyes is feen, The fad attendant of fo good a queen : Ungrateful country ! to forget fo foon All that great Anna for thy fake has done : When fworn the kind defender of thy caufe, Spite of her dear religion, fpite of laws ; For thee me ftieath'd the terrors of her fword, For thee me broke her gen'ral and her word : For thee her mind in doubtful terms me told* And learn'd to fpeak like oracles of old. For thee, for thee alone, what cou'd fhe more ? She loft the honour (he had gain'd before ; Loft all the trophies, which her arms had won, (Such Cafar never knew, nor Philip's fon) Refign'd the glories of a ten years reign, And fuch as none but Marliorough' 's arm cou'd gaia. For thee in annals (he's content to dune, Like other monarchs of the Stuart line. IN digging the foundation for the rebuilding of this cathedral, it was difcovered, beneath the graves mentioned at p. 9, that the foundation of the old church retted on a layer of hard and clofe pot earth. Curiofity led Sir Cbriftopher Wren to fearch farther. He found that on the north fide it was fix feet thick, that it grew thinner towards the fouth, and on the decline of the hill was Z z 2 fcarcely 356 SITE OF ST. PAUL'S ONCE THE SEA. jfcarcely four. On advancing farther, he met with nothing but loofe fand ; at length he came to water and fand mixed witlt periwinkles, and other fea-fhellsj and, by boring, came at laft ta the beach, and under that the natural hard clay : which evinced, that the fea had once occupied the fpace on which St. Paul'i now (lands. This fand had been one of thofe land-hills frequent on many coafts, not only on thofe of Holland and Flanders, but on- our own. It was the opinion of our great architect, that all the fpace between Camberwell hill and the hills of EJftx had been a. vaft bay, at low-water a fandy plain. All which appears in fome diftant age to have been embanked, poffibly by the Ro- mans *, who were greatly employed in that ufeful work, paludi&us tniuniendis. To the fouth of this cathedral are the college of Civilians, or Doctors commons, the court of arches, the court of delegates,, and feveral others, the great fatellites of the church.. The court of arches took its name, curia de arcubus, -from having been once kept in Bow church , Cbeapjjde. With the downfall of the church, of Rome their powers decreafed, and continued decreasing as the rights of mankind became better underftood.. HBRALDS ON Bennet-biLl, adjacent to thefe courts, is the College of He- COLLEGE. raids, a foundation of great antiquity, in which the records are kept of all the old blood of the kingdom. In the warlike times of our Henries and our Edwards., the heralds were in full employ,. and often fent upon moft dangerous fervicesj to hurl defiance into* * PartHtalia, p. 285. the HERALDS COLLEGE. 357 the teeth of irritated enemies, or to bring to their duty profligate rebels. Sometimes it has coft them their nofc and ears, and fometimes their h^a-s. At prefenc they reft fafe from all harms : are often of great ufe in proving ctfnfanguinhy, and helping peo- ple to fupply legal. clames to e Hates ; and often are of infinite ufe to our numerous children of fortune, by furnifhing them with a quantum Jufficit of good blood, and enabling. them to ftrut in the motley procefiion. of gentility. THE houfe they occupy was built on the fite of Derfy-houfe, . a palace of the great family of the Stanlies. It was built by the firft earl, father-in-law to Henry VII.. who in it lived and died,, as did his fon George, the intended viflim to the rage of Richard. HI. before the battle of Bc/worth. Edward earl of Derby, that prodigy of charity and hofpitaliry*, exchanged it with Ed- ward VT. for certain lands adjoining to his park- at Knowfley, in Lanca/hire. Queen Mary prefented it to Detbick, Garter king of arms, and his brother heralds, to live in, and difcharge the bufmefs of their office f* This houfe was deftroyed in the great fire, but foon rebuilt. It is inhabited by fcveral of the heralds. J. C. Brooke, Efq; Somerjet, muft permit me to acknowlege his fre- quent fervices and liberal communications. IN this neighbourhood, to .the weft, ftood the royal wardrobe, kept in a houfe built by Sir John Beaucbamp, who made it his refidence. It was fold to Edward III. and became the lodging Richard III. in his fecond year.. * Stew's Survaie, 138, f Coirins't Peerage t ii. 53. *Stiv; t 694* CROSS THE KING'S EXCHANGE, OR OLD CHANGE. KNIGHT-RIDER CHEAPSID*. CROSS Bumft-btttptffts Knight-rider Street, fo named from the gallant train of knights who were wont to pafs this way, in the days of chivalry, from the Tower Royal to the gay tournaments ac Sftiitbfield. From hence I pafs to the Kings Exchange, or the Old Change, a ftreet parallel to the eafl fide of St. Paul's church yard, which trofs the Roman read, or Watling-ftreet, and terminates clofe to the weft end of Cheapfide. This was the feat of the King's Exchanger, who delivered out to the other exchangers, through the kingdom, their coining irons, and received them again when worn out, with an account of the fums coined : neither was any body to make change of plate, or other mafs of filver, unlefs at this place*. IN this ftreet flood the College of Physicians, till it was deftroyed by the great fire : it was founded by the ornament of his age, Doclor Linacre, the greater! and moft general fcholar of the time. He lived in this ftreet, and left his houfe to the public, for theufe of his inftitution. He was appointed by Henry VII. phyfician to prince Arthur, and alfo his tutor. He was befides phyfician to that monarch, and Henry VIII ; and died in 1524, an honor to our country. He had travelled much, and was particularly re- fpected by the reigning duke of Tufcany, (die politeft fcholar of his days), and other foreigners , and met with at home a return fuitable to his merit. CREAPSIDE received its name from Chepe, a market, as being originally the great ftreet of fplendid fhops. In the year 1 246 it was an open field, called Crown-field, from an hojlerie> or inn, with the fign of a crown, at the eaft end. " At the fame period," * Sto " confifting," fays Stow, " of a moft beauti- " ful frame of faire houfes and (hops than be within the walls of " London or elfewhere in England, commonly called Goldfmiths- " Row ; builded by ^Thomas Wood, goldfmith, and one of the " fheriffes of London in 1491. It contained tenne faire dwelling " houfes, and fourteen fhops, all in one frame, uniformely builded " foure ftories high, beautified toward the ftreet with the gold- cf fmithes arms, and likenefs of woodmen, in memorie of his " name, riding on monftrous beafts, all richly painted and gilt*." IN Fofter Lane, which opens into the weft end of this ftreet, GOLDSMITH* T T flands the hall of this opulent company. In the court-room is a. fine portrait of Sir Hugh Myddelton, with a flicll by him, out of which he may be fuppofed to have poured the ufeful element to- the thirfting metropolis. The words Fontes Fodiniv, i. book iii. 103. f The fame, p. 3 A 2 to 364 SUNDRY OF THE NOBILITY to the inhabitants of thofe diftrifts to keep within, and not to wander in the ftreets : which were infefted by a fet of ruffians, who made a practice of infulting, wounding, robbing, and mur- dering the people, whom they happened to meet abroad during night *. CHIAPSJDI.. THE view we have of Cheapjtde, as it appeared juft before the great fire, fhews that it was fpacious and beautiful. The crofs and conduit are to be feen ; and the long row of (hops, which pro- jected from the houfes, reached to the bottom of the firft floors, and were lighted by windows in the roofs. This fhews the antient forms of building our more magnificent ftreets. On the fouth fide ftands the church of St. Mary le Bow, or de arcnbus, becaufe k originally was built upon arches. It perifhed in 1666, and was rebuilt after a defign of Sir Chriftofher Wren's. I cannot exprefs myfelf better than in the words of an ingenious writer, who calls it " a delightful abfurdity j-." In this church was interred Sir 'John Coventry, mercer, lord mayor in 1425, and anceftor and founder of the family of the earl of Coventry. I beg leave here to remind feveral other noble peers of their induftrious and honeft forefathers. JOHN COVENTRY, fon of William Coventry, of the city of that name, was an opulent mercer of the city of London, and mayor in 1425 ; a mod fpirited magiftrate, who dared to interfere in the dreadful quarrel between Humphrey duke of Glocefter and the infolent cardinal Beaufort, which he fuccefsfully quelled* From his loins is defcended the prefent earl of Coventry. SIR STEPHEN BROWN, fon of John Brown of Newcaftle, mayor * Strype's Stow, i. book Hi. 106. f Critical Review, &c. 39. in DESCENDED FROM CITIZENS. 365 in 1438, and again in 1448, was a grocer j and gave to us another peer, in the perfon of Sir Anthony Brown, created vifcount Moun* (ague by Philip and Mary, in 1554. THE Legges rofe to be earls of Dartmouth. The firft who was nobilitated was that loyal and gallant fea officer George Legge, created baron of Dartmouth in 1682. He was defcended from an anceftor of one of the above-mentioned names, who filled the praetorian chair of London in the years 1347 and 1354, having, by his induftry in the trade of a fkinner, attained to great wealth. SIR GEFFRY BULLEN, mayor in 1458, was grandfather to Thomas earl of Wilt/hire, father of Anna Bullen, and grandfather to queen Elizabeth ; the higheft genealogical honor the city ever po defied. SIR BAPTIST HICKS was a great mercer at the accefiion of James I. and made a vaft fortune by fupplying the court with filks. He was firft knighted, afterwards created vifcount Camb- den. It is faid he left his two daughters a hundred thoufand pounds apiece. He built a large houfe in St. John's-ftreet, for the juftices of Middlefex to hold their feflions, which (till its de- molition, a very few years ago, upon the erection of a new feffions- houfe on Clerkenwell Green) retained the name of Hicks' s Hall. THE Capels, earls of Effex, are defcended from Sir William Capel, draper, mayor in 1503. He firft fet up a cage in every ward, for the punifhment of idle people. MICHAEL DORMER, mercer, mayor in 1542, produced the fu- ture lord Dormers. EDWARD OSBORN, by his fortunate leap, as before related, when apprentice to Sir William Hewet, attained in confequenca great wealth and honors. He was mayor in 1583 ; and from his loins fprung the dukes of Leeds. FROM. BOW CHURCH. STORY OF FROM Sir William Craven, merchant-taylor, mayor in 1611, iprung the gallant earl Craven, who was his eldeft fon, and was greatly diftinguifhed by his actions in the fervice of the unfortu- nate Elector Palatine, by his attachment to the dowager, and his marriage with that illuflrious princefs . LORD Vifcount Dudley and Ward is defcended from William Ward, a wealthy goldfmith in London, and jeweller to Henrietta Maria, queen to Charles I. His fon, Humble Ward, married Frances, grand-daughter of Edward Sutton, lord Dudley, on the death of her grandfather baronefs of Dudley; and he himfelf created, in 1643, lord Ward, of Birmingham. THE old church of Bow was founded in the time of 'William the Conqueror ; we have before given the origin of the name, which was from the arches of the foundation, not of the fteeple, which was rebuilt with arches, or in a crown faihion, but not till long STORY OF after the year 1512*. In this tower, in 1 1 96, one William Fitz-Of- FiTz-OBERT. fa rt ^ a jj as Lng Beard, a feditious fellow of uncommon eloquence, but of the loweft rank, fet up as advocate for the poorer citizens againft the opprefiions of the rich. He took opportunity of be- ginning a tumult by inflaming their minds againft a certain tax, raifed entirely for the neceffities of the ftate. Many lives were loft on the occafion, at St. Paul's. Hubert, the great judiciary, fummoned Long Beard to appear before him ; but found him fb well fupported, that he thought it prudent to forbear punifhment. This ferved but to increafe his infolence. He grew fo outrageous, that the citizens were refolved to bring him to juftice : a refolute band made the attempt, when he and a few defperate fellows fled to the tower of Bow fteeple, which they fortified. The befiegers, feeing the mob aflemble from all parts to his refcue, made a fire * Nrwcourt'z Repertorium, i. 437. at F IT Z-OS BERT, A VILLAIN. 367 at the bottom, which forced him and his companions to fally out j but they were taken, and the next day he and eight more were dragged by their heels to the Elms at Smithfield, and there hanged. It was faid, that finding himfelf deferted by Heaven, he at the gallows " forfook Mary's Son (as he called our SAVIOUR), and Henry IV. caufed the blank char- ters, made by Richard II. to be burned here, as we do libels in our times. BUT thefe were legal acts. Many fad inftances of barbarous executions were done in the fury of popular commotions. Rich- ard Lions, an eminent goldfmith, and late (heriff of the city, was in' 138 1 (with feveral others) cruelly beheaded here by order of Wat Tyler. Lions was interred in the church of St. James, Garlic-hith, and on his tomb (now loft) was his figure in a long flowered gown, a large purfe hanging in a belt from his (boul- ders, his hair (hort, his beard forked, a plain hood falling back and covering his fhoulders. At the fame time numbers of fo- reign merchants, efpecially Flemings^ were dragged from the churches, and, the Shibboleth * of Bread and Cheefe being put to them (which they pronouncing Brot and Cawje) they were in- ftantly put to death. In 1450, lord Say, high treafurer of Eng- land, loft his head at the Standard, by the brutality of John Cade. Sh&kefpeare admirably defcribes the tragic fcene f. WHETHER Walter Stapleton, bifhop of Exeter, fuffered by the popular fury J on this fpot, is rather uncertain j fome imagine > chap. xii. ver. 6. f Henry VI. part ii. J: Page of this Work. 364 that 37 2 GUILDHALL: that he was beheaded at a crofs before the north door of St. Paul's * j to which church he was flying for refuge, and unfor- tunately feized by the mob before he had taken fanftuary. THROUGH this ftreet, and probably to this crofs, in 1439, walked barefooted, with a taper in her hand, Elinor Cobham y wife to Humphrey duke of Gloucefter, charged with the crime of forcery, with intending the death of the king by melting an image of wax, with which his body was to fympathize. Limus ut hie durefcit, et h 3 o o THIRD SERVICE. i Ragout Royal i I o 8 Diihes of fine green Morells 880 10 Ditto fine green Peas 10 10 o 3 Ditto Afparagus Heads 220 3 Ditto fine fat Livers i 1 1 6 3 Ditto fine Combs i 1 1 6 5 Ditto green Truffles 550 5 Ditto Artichoaks, a la Provinciale 2126 5 Ditto Mulhrooms au Blank 2 12 6 i Difh Gardens, a la Bejamel 0106 i Ditto Knots of Eggs o 10 6 i Ditto Ducks Tongues o 10 6 3 Ditto of Peths i 1 1 6 1 Difh of Truffles in Oil - o 10 6 4 Dilhes of Pallets 220 2 Ditto Ragout Mille 2 2 9 FOURTH SERVICE. 2 Curious ornamented Cakes 2120 12 Difhes of Blomanges, reprefenting different Figures 12120 1 2 Ditto clear Marbrays 14 8 o 3 C 1 6 Dilhes 37* BILL OF FARE FOR HIS PRESENT MAJESTY. 16 Ditto fine cut Paftry 16 16 o 2 Ditto milk Fuelles I 10 6 THE CENTRE OF THE TABLE. 1 Grand Pyramid of Demies of Shell-fifh of various Sorts 220 32 Cold Things of Sorts, viz. Temples,, Shapes, Land- fcapes in Jellies> favory Calces, and Almond Gothes J3 12 o 2 Grand Epergnes filled with fine Pickles, and gar- nifhed round with Plates of Sorts, as LaJpicks Rolards,.&c. 660 Total of the KING'S Table -374 i o THE whole of this day's entertainment coft the city -6,898. 5*. 4*/. A committee had been appointed out of the body of aldermen, who moft defervedly received the thanks of the lord mayor and whole body corporate, for the Ikilful difcharge of this important truft. The feaft confifted of four hundred and four- teen difhes, befides the defert ; and the hofpitality of the city>. and the elegance of the entertainment, might vie with any that had ever preceded.. NUPTIAL. BILL OF FARE OF HENRY VII. NUPTIAL TABLE. HENRY VII*. FIRST COURSE. A Warner by for the Courfe Sheldes of Brawne in Armor Frumetye with Venifon Bruet riche Hart powdered graunt Chars Fefaunt intram de Royall Swan with Chawdron Capons of high Goe Lampervey in Galantine Crane with Cretney Pik in Latymer Sawcc Heronufew with his Siquc Carpe in Foile Kid reverfed Perche in Jeloye deptc Conys of high Grece Moten Roiall richely garnyfhcd Valance baked Cuftarde Royall Tarte Poleyn Leyfe Damafk Frutt Synoper Frutt Formage A Soteltie, with writing of Balads. ' Ltland'$ Colleffanea, iv. 216. 3 C 2 SECOND J8o BILLOFFAREATAFfeAST SECOND COURSE. A Warner byfor the Courfc Joly Ypocras Mamane with Lozengs of Goldc Pekok in Hakell Bittowre Fefawnte Browes Egrets in Beorwetye Cokks Patrieche Sturgyn frelhe Fenell . Plovers Rabett Sowker Seyle in Fenyn entirely fervcd richelf ' Red Shankks ' Snytes Quayles Larkes ingraylede Creves de Endence Venefone in Pafte Royali Quince Baked Marche Payne Royali A colde bake Mete flourifhede Lethe Ciprus Lethe Rube Fruter Augeo Frutcr Mouniteyne GIVEN BY HENRY VII. Caftells of Jely in Temple wife made A Sotekie. THESE Sotelties, or Subtilicies as they were called, were the ornamental part of the defert, and were extremely different from thofe in prefent ufe. In the inthronization feaft of archbifhop Warebam> on March 9th, 1 504, the firft courfe was preceded by " a warner *, conveyed upon a rounde boorde of viii panes, " with viii towres embatteled and made with flowres, ftand- " ynge on every towre a bedil in his habite, with his ftaffe : and founded by Thomas Fitz-Theobald de Helles and his wife Agnes, fitter to the turbulent Thomas Becket, who was born in the houfe of his father Gilbert^ fituated on this fpot. The mother of our meek faint was a fair Saracen, whom his father had married in the Holy Land. On the fite of his houfe rofe the hofpital, built within twenty years after the murder of Thomas ; yet fuch was the repute of his fanctity, that it was dedicated to him, in con- junction with the blefied Virgin, without waiting for his canoni- zation. The hofpital confided of a matter and feveral brethren, profefllng the rule of St. Auftin. The church, cloifters, &c. were granted by Henry VIII. to the Mercers company, who had the gift of the mafterfhip *. IN the old church were numbers of monuments j among others, one to James Butler earl of Ormond, and Joan his wife, living in the beginning of the reign of Henry VI. This whole pile was deftroyed in the great fire, but was very handfomely re- built by the Mercers company, who have their hall here. In the portico to the chapel is a full-length figure recumbent of Richard * Tanntr. Fijhbourn MERCERS COMPANY. 385 Fijhlourn, drefTed in a furred gown and a ruff; he died in 1625, and, being a great benefactor to the place, received the honor of this monumenr. THIS company is the firft of the twelve, or fuch who are ho- nored with the privilege of the lord mayor's being elected out of one of them. The name by no means implied originally a dealer in filks : for merceiy included all forts of fmall wares, toys, and haberdafhery *. But, as numbers of this opulent company were merchants, and imported great quantities of rich filks from Italy, the name became applied to the company, and all deal- ers in filk. Several of the portraits in the great room of thisr hall are of Italian merchants. Not fewer than fixty-two mayors were of this company, between the years 1214 and 1762 ; among which it reckons Sir John Coventry, Sir Richard Whittington, and Sir Richard and Sir John Grejham. We are obliged to the exact Strype for the lift. In that by Maitland, the company each mayor was of, is omitted. IMMEDIATELY to the eaft is the narrow flreet, the Old Jewry , THE OL which took its name from the great fynagogue which flood there till the unhappy race were expelled the kingdom, in 1291. Their perfecutions, under fome of the preceding monarchs, nearly equal- led rhofe of the Chriftians under \hzRoman emperors : yet the love of gain retained them in our country in defiance of all their fuf- ferings. A new order of friars, called Frafres de Sacca y or de pc- vitentia, got pofTeffion of the Jewifo temple : but did not hold it long. Robert Fitzwalter, the great banner-bearer of the city, requefted, in 1305, that the friars might afiign it to him. It * Anderfnts Dift. i. 145. 3 D fecms GROCERS HALL. OF SIR JOHN CUTLER. GROCERS H A L fc, feems it joined to his own houfe, which ftood near the fite of the* prefcnt Grocers ball. In 1439, ^ was -occupied by Robert Large, mayor, who kept his mayoralty in this houfe j Sir Hugh Clapton did the fame in 1492; and after thefe tenants it was degraded into a tavern, diftinguiflied by the fign of the Windmill. THE chapel, or church, was bought by the Grocers company, in 141 1, from Fitzwalter, for three hundred and twenty marks* j who here layed the foundation of the prefent hall, a noble room, with a gothic front, and bow window. Here, to my great fur- prize, I met again with Sir Jobn Cutler, knight, and grocer, in marble and on canvas. In the firft he is reprefented (landing, in a flowing wig waved rather than curled, a laced cravat, and a furred gown with the folds not ungraceful : in all, except where the drefs is inimical to the fculptor's art, it may be called a good performance. By his portrait we may learn that this worthy wore a black wig, and was a good-looking man. He died in 1693. His kinfman and executor Edmund Boulter, Efq; expended ,. 7,666 on his funeral expences f. I am to learn how his ftatue and portrait came here. He is fpoken of as a benefactor, and that he built the parlour, arid over it an entertaining room. The anecdote of his bounty to the College of Phyficians, may lead one to fuppofe that the Grocers did not meet with more liberal treatment. If not, the character given of him by Mr. Pope, may reft unimpeached : Thy life more wretched, Cutler, was confefs'd, Arife and teil me was thy death more blefi'd > * Sarvaie, 476, 499. t Strypi* Stmu, i. book i. p. 289. Cut/tr 5 I R J O H N C U T L E R. 3*7 Cutler faw tenants break, and houfes faH ; For very want be could not build a wall. 'His only daughter in a'ftranger's power*; For very want he could not pay a dower. A few grey hairs his rev'rend temples crown'd, 'Twas very want that fold them for ten pound. What ev'n denied a cordial at his end, Banifh'd the doctor, and expell'd the friend ? What but a want, which you perhaps think mad, Yet numbers feel, the want of what he had ! THIS company follows the Mercers ; they were originally called Pepperersy from their dealing fo greatly in pepper: but in 1345 they were incorporated by the name of Grocers, either becaufe they fold things by, or dealt in grojji or figs f. But from the beginning they trafficked in all the good things which the trade does to this day. I FORGOT Bucklejlury , a ftreet which opens on the fouth fide BVCKLSBVKY. of Cheapfide, a little to the weft of the Grocers hall. It took its name from one Buckle, who had in it a large manour-houfe of ftone. This man loft his life in a ftrange way. Near his houfe ftood an old tower built by Edward I. called the Cornets tower, poffibly a watch tower, from the fummit of which fignals might have been given by the blowing of a horn. This, Buckle in- tended to pull down, and to have built a handfome houfe of * He had two daughters ; one married to Sir William Portman, bart. the other to John Robartes, earl of Radnor ; both married without his confent. The frrft died before him. J. C. Brooke, efq. Somer/et-beraU. The fame authority tells me he had his grant of arms jufl before his death, wherein he is ftyled, " of the city of Weftminjlcr" f Snr--vaie, 477. 3 D 2 wood* 388 THE MANSION- HOUSE. THE MANSION- HOUSE. SrOCKS-MAR- KtT. wood i or, according to the expreflion of the times, a goodly frame. cf timber : but in greedily demolifhing this tower, a ftone fell on him, and crufhed him to death ; and another, who married his widow, fet up the new-prepared frame of timber, and finifhed the work. This ftreet, in Stow's time, was the refidence of gro- cers and apothecaries *. ON the fame fide of the way is the Manfion-houfe, " damned, I may fay, to everlafting fame j-." The fight is relieved am- ply by another building behind it, St. Stephen's, IValbrook, a fmall church, the chef d* centre of Sir Chriftopher Wren, of moft exquifite beauty. " Perhaps Italy itfelf, (fays a judicious " writer) can produce no modern building that can vie with this " in tafte and proportion : there is not a beauty, which the " plan would admit of, that is not to be found here in the cc greateft perfection; and foreigners, very juftly, call our tafte " in queftion, for underftanding the graces no better, and allow- " ing it no higher degree of fame J. OVER the altar is a beautiful picture of the martyrdom of St_ Ftepbeti) by Mr. Weft. The character of the faint is finely ex- prefled in his angelic countenance, refigned to his fate, and full of fure and certain hope. I looked to no purpofe for the ftatue erected, DIV^E MAC-AUL^E, by her doating admirer, a former rector ; which a fucceffor of his has moft profanely pulled down. THE Manfion-houfe, and many adjacent buildings, ftand on the fite of Stocks-market > which took its name from a pair of * Sitrvaie, 477. f Critical Re-view, J Ibid. 37. c. $6, 37. liiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiillliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii i iiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiimi iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiKiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiE that concourfe of all the nations of the ROYAL world, arift-s before us with the full majefty of commerce. Whe- EXCHANGE* ther we confider the grandeur of the edifice, or the vafl concerns carried on within its walls, we are equally flruck with its im- portance. But we are more aflonifhed when we find that this expenfive princely pile was the efFecl: of- the munificence of,a private citizen^ SIR THOMAS GRESHAM. Let the pride of my country not be fupprefied, when I have opportunity of faying, that the original hint was given to him by a Weljhman j by Richard doughy afterwards knighted, originally his fervant, and in the year 1561, by his merit and induftry, advanced by Sir 'Thomas to be his correfpondent and agent in the then emporium of the world, 39 THE ROYAL EXCHANGE: Antwtrp. Chugh wrote to his mafler, to blame the city o don for neglecting fo neceflfdry a thing ; bluntly telling, that they flndied nothing elfe but their own private profit ; that they were content to walk about in the rain, more like pedlars than mer- chants j and that there was no kind of people but had their place to tranfaft bufinefs in, in other countries. Thus ftimu- lated, Sir Thomas purchafed fome tenements on the fite of the Royal Exchange ; and, on June 7, 1566, laid the foundation, and in November* 1567, completed what was then called the Bourfe. In 1570, queen Elizabeth went in great ftate from her palace at Somerfet-bGufe, to make Sir tfbcmas a vifit at his own houff. After dinner fhe went to the Bourfe, vifited every part, and then, by found of trumpet, dignified it with the title of the Rcyal Ex- -cbange. All the upper part was filled then, and even to this cen- tury, with fhops ; on this occafion they were filled .with the richeft productions of the univerfe, to fhew her majefty the profperity of the commercial parts of her dominions. I cannot learn what the cxpence of this noble defign was, only that the annual product of the rents to his widow was .751. 5 j. lam equally unac- quainted with the form of the original building, which periflied in the great fire. It was rebuilt, in its prefent magnificent form, by the city and the company of mercers *, at the expence of eighty thoufand pounds ; which, for a confidcrable time, involved the undertakers in a large debt. It was completed in 1669 ; on Sept. 28, of that year, it was opened by the lord mayor, Sir Wil- liam Turnery who congratulated the merchants on the occafion. St rype's Sio-iv-, i. book ii. p. 137, The STATUES THEREIN, 391 The following infcripuon does grateful honor to the original founder : Hoc GRESHAMII Periftyllium, Gentium commercium facrum, Flammis extinlum 1666, Auguftius e cinere refurrexil 1669, Will' 'Turncro, milite, praetore. THE ftatue of Sir 'Thomas Grejham is in one corner, in the* drefs of the times. Another, of that worthy citizen Sir John Barnard, graces another part. . The reft are kings, which (as far as king Charles}, with that of Sir Thomas, were chiefly executed by Gabriel Gibber ; that of Charles II. in the centre, by Gibbons *. And above ftairs are the ftatues of Charles I. and II, and another of the illuftrious founder, by John ^Euchnell, an artift of inferior merit, in the reign of William III. On the top of the tower, in front of the exchange, is a Grafshopper, the creft of Sir Thomas Grejham. The attnfion to that, and the Dragon on Bow fteeple, makes a line in that inexcufable performance of Dean Swift's, a profane imitation of the ftyle of the BIBLE f, which dulnefs itfelf could execute, and which nothing but the moft indefenfible wantonnefs could have produced from a perfon of his profcllion, and of his all-acknowleged wit. I MUST direct the reader's attention to the beautiful gotbic + tower of St. Michael's, on the fouth fide of Ccrnhill. At each corner is an angulated turret as high as the belfry, where they * Anecdotes of Pa'.t.ting, Hi. 136. f Wonderful Propkscy> &c. become 39* LEADENHALI. LlADEKH ALL. PUBLIC G R A K A K r . become fluted, and the capital ornamented with fculptures of hu- man faces ; from them they fpire into very elegant pinnacles. The body of this church was burnt in the great fire. It was begun to be built in 1421* j but the church was of far greater antiquity. It appears to have exifted in 1133. This church had its pulpit- crols, like that of St. Paul's, built by Sir John Rudftone, mayor in 1528, who was interred in a vault beneath in 1531. It may be added, that Robert Fabian, alderman, the celebrated hiftorian, was buried in this church in 1511, ^fter paffing the dignity of fheriff. THE king had a royal refidence in this ftreet, which was after- wards converted into a noted tavern, called the Popes bead. It was a vaft houfe, and, in the time of Stow, diftinguifhed by the arms of England, at that time three leopards paffant, guardant t and two angels the fupporters, cut on ftone f. AT the end of Cornbill is, as it were, a continuation of the ftrfct, by the name of that of Leadenball. It takes its name from a large plain building, inhabited about the year 1309, by Sir Hugh Nci-il, knight j in 1384 belonging to Humphry Bobun, earl of Here- ford. In 1408 it became the property of the munificent Wlritting- ton, who prefented it to the mayor and commonalty of London. In 1419, Sir Simon Eyre, citizen and draper, erected here a pub- lic granary, built with ftone in its prefent form. This was to be what the French call a Grenier d'abondance, to be always filled with corn, and defigned as a prefervative againft famine. The intent was happily anfwered in diftrefsful feafons. This and other or * Stjw's Snrvaif, i. 369. f The Same, 374. the ORIGINALLY A GRANARY. the city granaries feem at firft to have been under the care of the mayors; but in Henry VIII's time, regular furveyors were ap- pointed. He alfo built a chapel within the fquarej this he in- tended to apply to the ufes of a foundation for a warden, fix fecu~ lar priefts, fix clerks, and two chorifters, and befides, three fchoolmafters. For this purpofe he left three thoufand marks to the Drapers company to fulfil his intent. This was never executed: but in 1466 a fraternity of fixty priefts, fome of whom were to perform divine fervice every market-day, to fuch who frequented the market, was founded by three priefts, William Roufe, John Rifly, and Thomas Afoby *. LEADENHALL-STREET had the good fortune to efcape tolerably well in the great fire. The houfe was ufed for many other purpofes ; for the keeping the artillery and other arms of the city. Prepara- tions for any triumph or pageantry in the city were made here. From its ftrength it was confidered as the chief fortrefs within the city, in cafe of popular tumults ; and alfo as the place from which doles, largefies, or pious alms, were to be diftributed. Here, in 1546, while Henry VIIL lay putrefying in ftate, Heath, bifhop of Wincl)efter y his almoner, and others his minifters, diftri- buted great fums of money, during twelve days, to the poor of the city. The fame was done at Weftminfttr \ j but I greatly fear his majefty was paft ranfom! The market here was of great antiquity : confiderable as it is at prefent, it is far inferior to what it has been^ by reafon of the numbers of other markets which have been eftablifhed. Still it is the wonder of foreigners, * Banner. \ Stye's Stvw, i. book ii. p. 84. 8*. 3 who 39* INDIA HOUS E. CREE CHURCH. who do not duly confider the carnivorous nation to which it be- longs. THE (laughter made of the horned cattle, for the Support of the metropolis, is evinced by the multitudes of tanned hides expofed to fale in the great court of Leadenhall, which is the prefent mar- ket for that article. THE India-hcufe (lands a little farther to the eaft, but is not worthy of the lords tflndoftan. This was built in 1726, on the fpot once occupied by Sir William Craven, mayor in 16 10; a man of moft extenfive charity. His houfe was very large, the apart- ments capacious, and fit for any public concern *. IN the church of St. Catherine Cree, in this ftreet, is fuppofed to have been interred the celebrated Holbein, who died of the plague in 1554, at the duke of Norfolk's, in the priory of Chrift- fburcb t near Aldgate. I mud alfo mention it on another account, for its being the ftage on which the imprudent, well-meaning Laud acted a moft fuperftitious part in its confecration, on January 16, 1630-31. His whole conduct tended to add new force to the difcontents and rage of the times : he attempted innovations in the ceremonies of the church, at a feafon he ought at left to have left them in the (late he found them : inftead of that, he pufhed things to extremities, by that, and by his fierce perfecutions of his opponents; from which he never defifted till he brought de- ftrucYion on himfelf, and highly contributed to that of his royal mafter. PRYNNE, whom every one muft allow to have had fufficient * Strypii Stow, i. book ii. 88. caufe SUPERSTITIOUS BEHAVIOUR OF ABP. LAUD. 395 caufe of refentmcnt againft the archbifliop, gives the relation with much acrimoay, and much prophane humor* : (As firft), " When the bifhop approached near the commu- " nion table, he bowed with his nofe very near the ground fome " fix or feven times ; then he came to one of the corners of the " table, and there bowed himfelf three times ; then to the fecond, " third, and fourth corners, bowing at each corner three times ; ders y driven to feek refuge in England from the rage of perfecution under the Due d*Aha y in the reign of queen Elizabeth. About the fame time fled to our fan&uary John Houblon and Guillaume Lethieulier. The firft is found to have lent, i. e. given, to her Majejly, in the perilous year 1588, a hundred pounds f. His fon James flourifhed in wealth and reputation, and was eminent for his plainnefs and piety. He was buried in the church of St. Mary Woolnoth - t but, wanting a monument, the following epitaph was compofed for him by Samuel Pepys, efq; fecretary to the admiralty in the reigns of Charles II. and James II : JACOBUS HOUBLON, LONDINAS PETRI filius, Ob fidera Flandria exulantis : Ex C. Nepotibus habuit LXX fuperftites : Filios V. videns mercatores florentiffimos; Jpfe LONUINENSIS Burfae Pater; Piiffime obiit Nonagenarius, A D. CIDIOCLXXXII. * Strjpe's Annals, ii. 517. f The loan from the city was only .4,900. His FAMILY OF THE HOUBLONS. 399 His fons, Sir John Houblon, and Sir James Houblon, knights,, and aldermen, rofe to great wealth. From the laft fprung the refpectable family of the Houblons of Hallingbury, in EJJex. Sir James reprefented his native city. Sir John, my great grandfather by my mother's fide, left fix daughters : Arrabella, the eldeft, married to Richard My t ton, efq; of Hal/Ion, my maternal grand- father ; the fecond to Mr. Denny, a refpc-ftable merchant in the city ; the four younger died unmarried. Sir John Hcublon was of the Grocers company, was elected alderman of Cornhill ward, Sep- tember lyth, 1689; and lord mayor, September 29th, 1695. He was interred in this church January i8th, 1711-12. He was at the fame time lord mayor of London, a lord of the admiralty, and the firft governor of the bank of England. His manfion flood on the fite of the houfe j the nobleft monument he could have. IT would be injuftice not to give the name of the projector of that national glory the Bank of England. It was the happy thought of Mr. James- Paterfon, of the kingdom of Scotland,. This Palladium of our country was, in 1780, faved from the fury of an infamous mob by the virtue of its citizens, who formed fuddenly a volunteer company, and over-awed the mifcreants ; while the chief magistrate fkulked trembling in his Manfion-houfe, and left his important charge to its fate. I cannot wonder at the timidity of a peaceful magiflrate, when the principle of felf-pre- fer-vation appeared fo ftrong in the miniftry of the day. It was the fpirit of majefty itfclf that firft dictated the means of putting .a ftop to the outrages j which, if exerted at firft by. its fervants,, would have been true mercy ! AT the extremity of breadneedle-ftreet y appears the origin of; MERCH its. name, in Merchant-Taylors hall-, at the period in which they TAYLORS HALL- were 400 COMPANY OF MERCHANT TAYLORS: called ^Taylors, and Linen- armourers, under which title they were incorporated in the year 1480; and by Henry VII. by that of the men of the art and myftery of Mer chant -tayhrs, of the fraternity of St. John the Baptift. They were feventh in the rank or Galeazzo, duke of Milan - t married the daughter of Barnabas, the duke's brother ; died full of years and glory, at Florence, in 13943 where his figure, on horfeback, painted alfrejco on the walls of the cathedral, by the celebrated Paolo Uccelli, is ftill to be feen : beneath is this infcription, 236. others 40$ D R A P E R S H A L L* others fufFered in their purfes *, but none in a manner adequate to their crimes, which brought utter ruin on thoufands. AMONG the multitude of bubbles, which knaves, encouraged by the folly of the times, were encouraged to fet up, were the fol- lowing moft laughable : Infurance againft Divorces. A fcheme to learn men to caft nativities. Making Deal-boards of Saw-duft. Making Butter from Beech trees. A flying Engine, (now exemplified in Balloons.) A fweet way of emptying Necefiaries. DRAPERS HALL. T RETURN through Tbreadneedle-ftreet into the Broad ftreet. In fbrogmorton-Jtreet, near its junction with Broad-ftreet, ftands Drapers Hall. Thomas Cromwel, earl of Eflex, built a magnificent houfe on its fite : he (hewed very little fcruples in invading the rights of his neighbors to enlarge his domain. Stow mentions his own father as a fuffererj for the earl arbitrarily loofened from its place a houfe which flood in Stow's garden, placed it on roll- ers, and had it carried twenty-two feet farther off, without giving the lead notice : and no one dared to complain t- The manner of removing this houfe, Ihews what miferable tenements a certain Tank of people had, which could, like the houfes in Mojcow, be fo eafily conveyed from place to place. After Cromivel's fall, the houfe and gardens were bought by the Drapers company. The houfe was deftroyed in the great fire, but rebuilt, for the ufc Proceedings of the Houfe of Commons, &c. vi. 251. t Survaif, 342, of PORTRAITS THEREIN". 407 of their company, in a magnificent manner. This was the fartheft limits of the fire northward, as Allhallows church, in Fenchurcb- jtreet, was to the eaft. IN the hall, a very elegant room, is a portrait of the firft mayor, PORTRAITS. of London, Fitz-alwin, a half length. I need not fay a fictitious likenefs. In his days, I doubt whether the artifts equalled in; any degree the worft of our modern fign-painters. AT one end of the room is a large picture of Mary Stuart, with her hand upon her fon James I. a little boy in a rich veft; her drefs is black, her hair light-colored. I never faw her but in- dark hair; perhaps flie varied her locks. This could not be drawn from the life :: for fhe never faw her fon after he was a- year old. Thefe portraits are engraven by Bartolozzi. PORTRAITS of Sir Jofefb Sheldon, mayor in 1677, and of Sir Robert Clayton, mayor in 1680. Sir Robert was well deferving of this public proof of efteem : a great benefactor to Cbrift-cburcb hofpital, and again to that of St. Thomas in Southwark. He is finely painted, feated in a chair. THE Drapers were incorporated in 1430. The art of weaving woollen cloth was only introduced in 1360^ by the Dutch and Flemings : but, as it was long permitted to export our wool, and receive it again manufactured into cloth, the cloth trade made Jittle progrefs in England 'till the reign of queen Elizabeth *, who* may be faid to have been the foundrefs of the wealthy loom, as of many other good things in this kingdom. ON the weft fide of the adjacent Broad-ftreetft.QQ& the houfe f the Augujiinss, founded in 1253 by Humphry Bobun earl of Anderfim, i. 406. j. Hereford^ 403 HOUSE OFAUGUSTINES. Hereford^ for friars heremites of that order. The church falling into ruin, was rebuilt by Humphry, one of his defendants, earl of Here- ford, who was buried here in 1361. Numbers of perfons of rank were alfo interred here, from the opinion of the peculiar fan&ity thofe mendicants filled this earth with. Here lay Edmund Guy de Meric, earl of St. Paul. This nobleman was fent over by Charles VI. of France, on a complimentary vifit to Richard II. and his queen. He infmuated himfelffo greatly into the king's favor, as to become a chief confident : infomuch that, by the advice of St. Paul, he was guilty of that violent action, the murder of his fac- tious uncle, the duke of Glocefter*. Lucie, wife of Edmund Hol- land, lord admiral, and one of the heirs and daughter of Barnaby lord of Milan. She left great legacies to the church, in particu- lar to the canons of our lady de la Scala, at Milan. RICHARD FITZALAN, the great earl of Arundel, beheaded in 1397 at 'Tower Hill. John Vere, earl of Oxford, a ftrong friend to the houfe otLancafter, beheaded by the cruel Edward, in 1463, at the fame place, with his fon and feveral others. Numbers alfo of the barons who fell in Barnet-field, found here a place of inter- ment. Edward Stafford, duke of Buckingham, victim, in 1521, to the pride of cardinal Woljey, chofe this holy ground; as did mul- titudes of others, recorded in the Survaie of John Stow f. IN the fuccefsful cruizes made by the Englijh, in the year 1545* about three hundred French fhips were taken ; Henry converted the conventual churches into fo many warehoufes for the cargoes. * Ktnnett i. 275. " t P. 339- This WINCHESTER. HOUSE. 409 This and the Black-friars he filled with herrings and other fi(h, and the Grey-friars were filled with wine *. AT the diflblution, great part of the houfe, cloifters, and gar- WIKCHESTSI- dens were granted to William lord St. John, afterwards marquis HOUSE. of IVinchefter, and lord treafurer. On the fite he built Wincbefter- glace, a magnificent houfe, where Wincbefter-ftreet now ftands. The weft end of the church was in 1551 granted to John a Lajco for the ufe of the Germans, and other fugitive Proteftants, and afterwards to the Dutch as a preaching-place. Part alfo was converted into a glafs-houfe for Venice glafs, in which Venetians were employed in every branch of this manufacture. . They were patronized by the duke of Buckingham. Howel, the celebrated author of the Letters, was fteward to the manufacture, but was obliged to quit his office, not being able to endure the heat. He had been at Venice in 1621 f, probably to pry into the fe- crets of the art, and to engage workmen. This place was- after- wards converted into Pinncrs-baJl, or the hall of the company of Pin -makers. THE other part the marquis referved for the purpofe of flowing corn, coal, and other things. His fon fold the noble monuments of the dead, the paving-ftones, and many other materials, which had cofl thoufands, for a hundred pounds, and converted the build- ing into ftables for his horfes J. The fleeple was ftanding in the year 1600. It was fo beautiful, that the mayor and feveral re- ipectable citizens petitioned the marquis that it might not be * Holinjhed, 968. f hoiucFs Letters, 56. \ Ktnmt, i. 336, 33.7. 3 G pulled 410 SIR THOMAS GRESHAM'S HOUSE. pulled down.j but their petition was rejected, and this fine orna- ment of the city demolifhed *. BEHIND this church, clofe to London -wall, ftood the Papsy, a fraternity of St. Cbarilibis and St. John the evangelift, for Papeys, or poor infirm priefts, founded in 1430 by certain chauntry .priefts. It was a numerous fociety, defigned to relieve any of its members, who by lamenefs or illnefs were reduced to diftrefs or poverty, whether they were brothers or fitters. The church of St. Auguftine Papey belonged to this fraternity. Thefe priefts, the brotherhood of threefcore priefts of Leaden-hall, and the company of parilh clerks, who were (killed in fmging diriges and funeral office, were accuftomed to attend the folemn burials of the rich or great. Thefe are frequently reprefented on the fides of antient tombs, and were called pleureurs, weeper -s, and mourners. This houfe became, after the fuppreflion, the habitation of Sir Francis Walfmgkam. IN Winchefter-ftreet flood alfo a great houfe, called the Spanijh ambafiador's, which was occupied by Sir James Houblon, knight and alderman : and at the fame period it was the refidence of fe- veral of our mofl eminent merchants. Sm THOMAS To the eaft fide of the fame ftreet, ftood the houfe of our firft GRESHAM'S o f merchants, Sir Thomas Grejham ; originally built with brick and timber, and fronting to Bijhopjgate-ftreet. By his will he appointed four lecturers in divinity, aftronomy, mufic, and geometry, and three readers in civil law, phyfic, and rhetoric, each with a falary of fifty pounds a year, payable out of the rent ifluing out of the Royal Exchange. This houfe was the place where the profeflbrs * StrypisStew, i, book ii. p. 114. 5 had ORIGIN OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY. 411 had their apartments, and where the lectures were to be read j which were begun in 1597, but they are now quite deferted. This arofe in a great degree from the inftitution of the ROYAL SOCIETY : the meetings of which were for a considerable time held here. THE origin of that refpectable body was from the meeting of a ORIGIN- OP TH few illuftrious perfons at the lodgings of doctor Wilkins, after- RoyAL wards bifhop of Chefter, and others worthy of record, doctor Setb Ward, afterwards bifhop of Saiijlury, Mr. BOYLE, Sir William Petty, and the doctors Wallis, Goddard, Willis, and Bathurft, Sir Cbriftopher Wren, and a few more. In 1658, they afiembledrm Grejham college, by permiffion of the profeffors of the foundation of Sir Thomas Grejham ; and on the Reftoration were incorpo- rated by royal charter. A moft inftructive and well-founded Mufeum was eftablifhed here in 1677, by Henry Colwallt confift- ITS MUSEUM. ing of natural and artificial curiofities, collected with great ex- pence and judgment. The fociety had a benefit never known at any other time, the afllftance of the great Mr. BOYLE, the moft accorriplifhed, moft learned, and moft religious virtuofb, who pointed out the proper objects of their collection, and gave them the moft finifhed inftructions * for procuring them from every quarter of the globe. At that period there were, in both the In- dies, perfons capable of underftanding, and purfuing with fuc- cefs, the plan laid down for them at home. It was the good for- tune of the Mufeum to have, co-exiftent with its formation, a phi- * Thefe were colleded and published in 1693. This little book is a moft ne- ceflary companion for all travellers and voyagers. 3G2 lofopher 4 i2 MUSEUM OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY. lofopher for its Curator, fully qualified to defcribe its various ar- ticles. Doctor Nebemiab Grew not only performed that part,, but illuftrated every one, in eafes where the fubject admitted, with the moft learned and pertinent remarks. He publifhed his> Mujeum Regalis Societatis in 1681, and dedicated it to the foun- der, Mr. Colwall, at the expence of whom the plates were en- graven. It is a work equal to the Mujeum Wormianum, and any- other admired foreign performance of that age. Its defects arife only from the want of fyftem, the misfortune of the time ; for our RAY had not then cleared the rich ore of Natural Hiftory from the furrounding rubbifh. About the year 1711, the Society re- moved from hence to Crane-court in Fleet-ftreet. For numbers of years the Mujeum was neglected. My refpected friend, the ho- nourable Dairies Barrington, with moft difmterefted zeal, under- took the reftoring it, as far as the ravages of time would permit. This he did in the moft effectual manner j and enriched it with a number of new fpecimens, efpecially from our late colonies : it being his defign to have formed it into a repofitory of every thing relative to the natural hiftory of Great Britain and its dependen- cies : a moft noble plan, and worthy of being carried into full execution. By fingular chance, Grejham college efcaped the flames in 1666 j but I believe very little of the original houfe re- mains: it having been moftly rebuilt in 1601, poflibly after the original defign ; the arcades being adapted for the reception of the numbers of commercial and other followers of fo univerfal a. merchant as Sir Thomas Grejham. THIS college has been pulled down within my memory j and the Excife-office t a building of moft magnificent fimplicity, has refe EXCISE-OFFICE. CROSBIE-HOUSE. 413 tofe in its place. The payment into this office, from the 5th of January, 1786, to the 5th of January, 1787, was not lefs than five millions, five hundred and thirty-one thoufand, one hundred and fourteen pounds, fix {hillings, and ten pence halfpenny. Happy for us that our wealth keeps pace with our luxury ! THE houfe known by the name of Cro/bie-boufe, flood on the CROSBIB-HOUSE, oppofite fide of Bijhopjgate-ftreet, and was another magnificent flrufture, built by Sir John Crq/bie, fherifF in 1470, on ground leafed to hfm by Alice AJhfield, priorefs of St. Helen's. In this houfe Richard duke of Glocefter lodged * after he had conveyed his nephews to the Tower, and was meditating the deftruction of the poor innocents. The hall, mifcalled Richard Ill's chapel, is dill very entire j a beautiful gothic building, with a bow-win- dow on one fide ; the roof is timber, and much to be admired. At prefent, this magnificent room is occupied by a packer. HENRY VIII. made a grant of it to Anthwio Bonvica, a rich. Italian merchant f. Henry was a great favorer of the merchants of this nation, for the fake of the " magnificent filks, velvets, ti- " fues of gold, jewels, and other luxuries, (as he exprefies it) for " the pleafure of us, and of our deareft wyefF, the quene ;." In_- the reign of Elizabeth, it feems appropriated to foreign ambafTa- dors : here was lodged the ambafiador of France, and again the ambaflador of Denmark . The fite of this houfe is ftill known; by the name of Crq/bie-fquare.. 9 Fabian, book vii. 514. f Stow, ii. book ii. io& J Rymer's Feed. xv. 105, Stow' i Survaie, 332. 4H S I R P A U L P I N D A R. THE houfe of that great merchant Sir Paul Pindar ftands in this ftreet : it is eafily known by the bow, and vaft extent of win- dows along the front. Sir Paul was early diftinguifhed by that frequent caufe of promotion, the knowlege of languages. He was put apprentice to an Italian mafter, travelled much, and was appointed ambaflador to the Grand Seignior by James I \ in which office he gained great credit by extending the EngHJh com- merce in the Turki/h dominions. He brought over with him a dia- mond valued at. 30,000 j the king wifhed to buy it on credit, but this the fenfible merchant declined : but favored his majefty with the loan on gala days : his unfortunate fon became the purchafen Sir Paul was appointed farmer of the cuftoms by James > and frequently fupplied that monarch's wants, as well as thofe of his fuccefibr. He was efteemed at one time worth . 236,000, ex- clufive of bad debts, in the year 1639. His charities were very great : he expended nineteen thoufand pounds in the repairs of St. Paul's cathedral *. He was ruined by his connections with his unfortunate monarch ; and, if I remember right, underwent imprifonment for debt. It is faid that Charles owed him, and the reft of the old commiflioners of the cuftoms, . 300/500 i for the fecurity of which, in 1649, they offered the parlement .ico,ooOi but the propofal was rejefted f. He died Augtift -22, 1650, aged 84. He left his affairs in fuch a perplexed date, that his executor, William Toomes, unable to bear the difappointment, de- * Wbitelock,?. 17. f Wbiteiock, p. 410. In the Gentleman's Magazine for June 1787, is an am- ple account of Sir Paul Pindar ; and in the European for April 1787, his charac- ter, wilh a viewof his houfe. ST. HELEN'S THE GREAT AND LESS. 4 , 5 ftroyed himfelf j and mod defervedly underwent the ignominy of the, now, almoft obfolete verdict of Felo deje. HELENA, the mother tfConftantine the Great, and a canonized PRIORY OF ST. faint, had, a little to the eaft of Crojbie-fquare, a church dedicated HELEN'S; OR ST, i i T CD i- n - HELEN'S THR to her in very early times. In 1210, a priory or Benediftine nuns LESS. was founded by a goldfmith, William Fitz-William, dedicated to the Holy Crofs, and its inventrefs Helena, the piijjima et venerabilis AUGUSTA. Its revenues, according to Dugdale, were .314. 2 j, 6 d. Henry granted the fite to Mr. Richard Cromwel, alias Williams ; and on the nuns hall was built the Leather-fillers Hall. This company was incorporated in the reign of Richard II. They flourifhed greatly, in particular, in the time of queen Elizabeth, when they had confiderable commerce in (kins from Barlary and Rujjia, and made great profits from the exportation of the manu- factured leather. NORTH-EAST of tfhreadneedle-Jireet, ftands the antient church CHURCH OF ST. known by the name of St. Helen's the Great , in it are numbers of HELEN'S THE VjREAT. curious tombs : they fortunately efcaped the ravages of the great fire. That of the great benefactor to the city, Sir Thomas Gre/ham, TOMB OF SIR claims the firft notice : it is altar- fafhioned, with a black flab on T * GRESHAM - the top ; the fides fluted, and of coloured marble. So great a name wanted not the proclamation of an epitaph, fo it is entirely without infcription. A moft magnificent tomb of Sir William Pickering, who died SIR WILLIAM in London, at Pickering-boufe, in 1574, aged 58. He lies recum- PICKERING. bent, in rich gilt and painted armour, fmall ruff, fhort hair, trunk breeches ; the mat he reds on is finely cut. He had ferved four princes :. Henry VIII, in the field ; Edward VJ, as ambafiador to France - 3 TOMBS IN ST. HELEN'S CHURCH. "France ; queen Mary, in Germany-, and finally, queen Elizabeth. ft Elizabeth, (fays his epitaph; principi omnium illuftrijfim< fum- " mis cjjiciis devotiffimus" He is faid to have afpired at the pof- fcflion of her perfon *. WILLIAM BO.NP. A TOMB of William Bond, who died in 1576, a merchant ad- venturer, and the mod famous of his age for voyages by land and fra. He, his wife, and feven children, are reprefented kneeling. The lady is diftinguifhed by her vaft fleeves. THEIR fon Martin took a military turn : he was captain in the camp at Tilbury, in 1588, and chief captain in the train-bands till his death. He is reprefented in armour, in his tent; foldiers are feen on the outfide, and his fervant waiting with his horfe. I OMIT many fplendid monuments, which record that the pof- feffors were good men and good citizens. That of Sir Julius Adelmar Cejar, who died a fuperannuated matter of the Rolls in 1636, is very fingular. His epitaph is cut on a black flab in form of a piece of parchment with a feal appendant, by which he gives his bond to Heaven, to refign his life willingly whenever it fhould pleafe GOD to call him. /;; cujus rei teftimcnium manum meam et figillum appojui. IN a plain fquare maufoleunvis lodged the embalmed corpfe of Richard Bancroft, placed in a cheft with -a lid fattened only with hinges, and over the face is a glafs pane. This, Bancroft is faid to have been one of the lord mayor's officers, and a very ra- pacious perfon. To make atonement for his pad life, he left his ill-gotten riches in truft to found and maintain an alrnshoufe and SIR JULIUS CESAR. .RICHARD BANCROFT. Kennet\< 3 /?. ii. 363. Hall in Croftjie Place THE LOMBARDS. 4,7 fchool, and to keep the monument in repair. He left twenty (hillings to the minifter to preach annually a commemoration- fermon*. The almfmen and fcholars attended, and his body was brought out for public infpection. But I think that this cuftom, as well as the fermon, have been of late years laid afide. HERE is alfo another tomb, feemingly belonging to fome per- fons of rank : it is of an altar form ; on it lie recumbent two ala- bafter figures, one of a beardlefs man, with his hair cut Ihort and round ; over his fhoulders is a robe, a fine collar round his neck, his body armed, and a griffin at his feet. By him lies his lady. I NOW vifit the third ftreet which branches from the Poultry, LOMBARO- that which took its name from the Lombards, the great money- STREET. changers and ufurers of early times. They came out of Italy into our kingdom before the year i274f; at length their ex- tortions became fo great, that Edward III. feized on their eflates j perhaps the neceffity of furnifhing him with money for his Flemijh expedition, might have urged him to this ftep. They feem quickly to have repaired their lofs ; for complaint was foon after made againft them, for perfifting in their practices. They were fo opulent in the days of Henry VI. as to be able to furnifh him with money, but they took care to get the cuftoms mort- gaged to them by way of fecurity J. In this ftreet they conti- nued till the reign of queen Elizabeth j and to this day it is filled with the fhops of numbers of eminent bankers. Nortbouk's Hift. of London, 557. f Anderfon, i. 406. J The fame, 231. 3H THB 4 iS THEPOST-OFFICE. THE Ihop of the great Sir Thomas Grejham flood in this ftreet; it is now/ held by Mefirs Martin, bankers, who are ftill in pofief- fion of the original fign of that illuftrious perfon, the Grafsbopper. Was it mine, that honorable memorial of fo great a predeceflbr fhould certainly receive the moft oftentatious fituation I could find. POST-OFFICE. THE Poft- office, which gives wings to the extenfion of com- merce, ftands in Lombard-ftreet. The office of chief poftmafter was erected in 1551 *, but we are not told how this branch of bufinefs was managed j however it was not regularly eftablifhed till the year 1644, when Mr. Edmund Prideaux, the inland poft- mafter, was fuppofed to collect about five thoufand pounds a year. IN 1654, the parlement farmed the poft-office to a Mr. Manly, for . 100,000. This farm included the poftage of England, Scotland, and Ireland *. ON the Reftoration, a general Poft-office was eftablifhed in London, to be under the direction of a poftmafter to be appointed by the king; and with powers to appoint poft-houfes in fuch parts of the country which were unprovided, both on the poft and by-? roads. IN 1663, when peace and a fettled government was reftored, they were farmed to Daniel 'Neil, Efq. for . 21,500 *. IN 1674, they were raifed to . 43,000; and in 1685, the grofs was eftimated at . 65,000*. AT the Revolution, the poft amounted to . 76,319. IN 1699, 10^.90,504*. The djterijks mark my authority as from Mr. Anderfon ; the reft are more doubtful, except from the words net income, in the next page. IN THE POST-OFFICE. 4*9 IN 1710, to . 111,461. In 1715, the grofs of the inland poft came to . 145,227. . * d. In 1722, the grofs amount was 201,804 i 8 Dedudl for franked covers 33>397 12 3 for expence in management 70,396 i 5 Net produce, Michaelmas 1722, 98,010 8 o IN 1744, to . 198,226 ; but the total of the inland and fo- reign offices was, in that year, . 235,490. THE privilege of franking was firft clamed by the commons in 1660, and allowed to both houfes by the crown in the follow- ing year. The abufe muft have been very great, it being aflerted, that in 1763, the lofs by that privilege amounted to^. 170,700. I have feen in fome private notes, that the grofs of the year's re- venue was ;. 432,048 ; and from better authority, that the net income of 1763, the year previous to the firft regulation of frank- ing, was . 97,833 j which, in 1764, increafed to . 1 16,182. IN the year ending in Auguft y 1784, the net revenue amounted to . 159,625. The aft for the fecond regulation took place in that month j in the following year it increafed to,. 196,513, and in the fucceeding, to * 261,409 ; and in the laft (1788) by rea- fon of our national profperity, to . 280,000. BEFORE the great fire, on the fite of the prefent office flood a much-frequented tavern. When it was deftroyed by that calamity, the convivial Sir Robert Viner replaced it with a large houfe for his own habitation. Sir Robert , during his mayoralty, in 1675, was honored with the prefence of his monarch, Charles II ; his 3 H 2 majefty 420 . HOUSE OF WILLIAM DE LA POLE : majefly was for retiring, after (laying the ufual time, but Sir Robert, filled with good liquor and loyalty, laid hold of the king, and fwore, " Sir, you fhall take t'other bottle. The airy mo- " narch looked kindly at him over the fhoulder, and with a s t i. 39, 48, truly flated. See alfo Sbake/peare's Henry VI, part ii. aft iv. fcene j. and the account of the pro- phecy in aft i. fcene 4. 422 RECEPTION OF A RUSSIAN AMBASSADOR. DENMARK- HOUSE. HUDSON'S-BAY HOUSE. York, his mother being fifter to Edward IV. The venerable Margaret countefs of Salijbury was barbaroufly brought to the block for the fame reafon ; her fon, cardinal Pole, would not have been fpared, could Henry have got him into his power. Henry Pole, lord Mont acute, fuffered for correfponding with him : and thus ended this ill-fated race. IN Fenchurch-ftreet, a continuation of the former, flood Den- mark-boufe. In it was lodged the ambaffador fent, in 1557, as Holinjhed expreffes it, from the emperor of Cathaie, Mufcovia, and Ruf eland. This was in confequence of the new difcovery of the White Sea by Chancellor : for till that time Rujfia was quite im- pervious by any other way. The merchants were well acquainted with the importance of the new commerce : they met him at 'Tot- tenham with all the fplendor that was likely to make an impref- fion on the mind of a Barbarian. They were dreffed in velvet coats, and rich chains of gold, and bore all his expences. Lord Montacute, with the queen's penfioners, met him at IJlington > and the lord mayor and aldermen, in fcarlet robes, received him at Smithfield, and from thence rode with him to this houfe, then " M aider Dimnock's, in Fenchurch- Street*." Our Ruffian com- pany was formed three years previous to the arrival of this am- baffador, but its commerce was carried on with redoubled fuc- cefs after the Ruffians were thus made acquainted with our wealth and power. IN this ftreet is the Hudfon y s-bay Houfe, the vaft repofitory of the northern furs of 'America, which are lodged here till they are fold, and exported to various parts of the world, even to the diftant China. Holinjbed, 1 132. In THERIVERTHAMES. 4*3 In this hall is a vaft pair of horns of the Moofe Deer, weighing fifty-fix pounds j and in another room, the picture of an Elk, the European Morfc, killed in the prefence of Charles XI. of Sweden, which weighed twelve hundred and t\venty-nine pounds. I SHOULD fpeak with the prejudices of a true Englijhman, was I to dignify the Thames with the title of the chief of rivers. I muft qualify my patriotifm with its juft clame to that of firft of ifland-rivers. But in refpect to our rival kingdom, it muft yield the palm to the Garonne, only we muft not make com- parifon of length of courfe. The contracted fpace of our ifland muft limit that fpecies of grandeur ; but there are none, in any part of Europe, which can boaft of more utility in bringing farther from the ocean the largeft commercial fhips ; nor are there any which can bring the riches .of the univerfe to their very capital. The fhips of the Seine difcharge themfelves at Havre -, thofe of the Loire reach no farther than Port-Lannai, far below its empo- rium Nantes j and the Garonne conveys no farther than Pouillac the full-loaden fhips : there they are obliged to be eafed of part of their cargoes, before they can reach the opulent Bourdeaux. THE Thames rifes beneath Sufferton-hill,]\ifr. within the borders of Glocefterjhire, a little to the fouth-weft of Cirencefter, which it inftantly quits, and enters for a fhort fpace into the county of Wilts, bends a little into it, and re-enters its parent province near Lecblade, where (by means of locks) it firft becomes naviga- ble, and, as is faid, for barges of feventy tons. It here leaves Glocefterjhire, and becomes the whole fouthern boundary of Ox- fordjhire, or the northern of Rerkjbire, and from thence is the icuthern limit of Buckingham/hire. At Great Marlow, in that 5 county, THE RIVER-THAMES. TIDE. WH ERE BRACKISH. 1 i s LENGTH. ITS PROPER MOUTH. county, is the lad lock ; from thence to the fea it requires no farther art to aid its navigation. At a fmall diftance from U'indfor it divides Middlefex from Surry j juft above King/ton it feels the hft feeble efforts of a tidej from thence is a mod important in- creafe: juft below London-bridge, eighteen feet; and at Depfford, twenty. The preceding, brings (hips of three hundred and fifty tons, drawing fixteen feet water, to the cuftom-houfe ; the laft, thofe of a thoufand tons, even the largeft, drawing twenty-three feet, which import the treafures of India. This noble river con- tinues frefh as low as Woolwich, and even there is brackilh only at fpring-tldes. Thus at our capital it is perfectly pure, falubrious, and fubfervient to vaft articles of commerce, with which that ftupendous city abounds. THE whole courfe of the Thames, to its mouth, is confiderably above two hundred miles. I contract its length very confiderably, in comparifon of the ufual eftimation, for I limit its mouth to the fpot between the weft end of the ifle of Grain, in Kent, and the eaftern part of that of Canvsy in EJJex. From thofe places to the Naze in the latter county, and the North Foreland in that of Kent (which have hitherto been confidered as its entrance) it ceafes to Mow in a fingle channel ; it becomes a vaft eftuary filled with fandbanks, many of which appear above water at the recefs of the tides. THE whole courfe of the river is through a country which fur- nifties every idea of opulence, fertility, and rural elegance : mea- dows rich in hay, or covered with numerous herds ; gentle rifings, and hanging woods j embellifhed with palaces, magnificent feats, x or F ISH OF THE THAMES. 425 or beautiful villas, a few the hereditary manfions of our antient gentry, but the greater part property transferred, by the effefts of vice and diflipation, to the owners of honed wealth, acquired by commerce, or induftrious profefiions, or the dear purchafe of cankering rapine. Its courfe furniihes few fublime fcenes, ex- cepting the high chalky cliffs near Henley -, all its banks are re- plete with native foftnefs, improved by art and the fulled culti- vation. I DO not recollect that it flows in any part over a rocky channel ; its bottom is either gravelly or clayey, according to the nature of the foil through which it meanders. This gives growth to the abundance of weeds with which it is in many parts filled ; and thefe prove the fafety of multitudes of fifties, and preferve them FISH, from being extirpated by the unbridled ravages of the poachers. The 'Thames has, between its fource and Wvdivich, every fpecies found in the Britijh rivers, except the BURBOT, the LOCHE, the COBITIS T^ENIA, or SPINY LOCHE, of late years difcovered in the river Trent, and the fmall fpecies of SALMON, the SAMLET. The SALMON, and the SHAD, are fifh.es of paflagej the firft appears in the river about the middle of February ', is in great eftimation, and fells at a vaft price j their capture is prohibited from the 24th of Auguftto the nth of November. The SHAD arrives the latter end of May, or beginning of June, and is a very coarfe fifh ; it fometimes grows to the weight of eight pounds, but the ufual fize is from four to five. This is the fi(h which Du Hamel defcribes as the true Akje of the French* ; but the filhermen of the Thames have another they call Allis> much lefler than the * Du Hamtl, ii. 316. tab. i. fig. i. 3 I former, FISH OF T HE THAMES. LESSER LAM- PREY, ITS GREAT USE. OF THE TuRBOT FXHERY. former, with a row of fpots from the gills along the fides, juft be- neath the back, more or lefs in number : this the French call Le Feinte*. I fufpcdt that the name Allis is mifapplted to this fptcies, and that it ought to be applied to the great or common Shad, being an evident corruption from the French name Alofe; is the fame with that of the Severn, but is rarely taken here : but neither of them are admitted to good tables. THE lefler Lamprey ', the Petromyzon flu viatilis of LINN^US, is a fin all fifh of great and national importance, and is taken in amazing quantities between Batterfea Reach and Taplow Mills (a fpace of about fifty miles) and fold to the Dutch for the Cod and other fifheries j 450,000 have been fold in one feafon for that purpofe; the price has beea forty fhillings the thoufand : this year the Dutch have given three pounds, and the Engli/b from five to eight pounds; the former having prudently contracted for three years at a certain price. Formerly the Thames has furnifhed from a million to twelve hundred thoufand annually. An at- tempt was lately made in parlement to fling the Turbot fifhery entirely into Britijh hands, by laying ten (hillings a ton duty on every foreign veffel importing Turbots into Great Britain : but the plan was found to be derived from felfifh motives, and even on national injuftice : the far greater quantity of Turbots being difcovered to be taken on the coafts of Holland and Flanders f. * DuHamel, ii. 321, tab. i. fig. 5. Blocbe, ii. tab. xxx. gives the figure cf the Feinte i but is of opinion that the fpots vanifh with age. For my part, I have not had opportunities of frequent examination of thefe fifties, but I incline to think they are different, as the Feintes appear in fpawn at the length of fixteen inches, which is their largeft fize. f See Supplement to the Jrflic Zoology, * THE VERSES IN PRAISE O THE THAMES. THE fifh of the Thames which come as low as London, and be- yond it as far as the water is frelh, are the Barbel, (which is never -feen below the bridge) a few Roach, and Dace, Bleak in great plenty, and Eels extend far down the river j fmall Flounders are found as far as Fulkam, brought up by the tides, and continue ftationary. I WILL conclude this account with the fine lines written by Sir John Denham on this our celebrated river ; and in a manner wor- thy of the greatnefs of the fubject : MY eye defcending from the hill furveye Where THAM-ES among the wanton valleys ftrays ; THAMES, the mod lov'd of all the ocean's fons By his old fire, to his embraces runs, Hading to pay his tribute to the fea, Like mortal life to meet eternity, Tho' with thofe dreams he no refemblance hold, Whofe foam is amber, and their gravel gold. His genuine and lefs guilty wealth t' explore, Search not his bottom, but furvey his more ; O'er which he kindly fpreads his fpacious wing, And hatches plenty for th' enfuing fpring ; Nor then dedroys it with too fond a day, Like mothers which their infants overlay ; Nor with a fudden and impetuous wave, Like profufe kings, refumes the wealth he gave : No unexpected inundations fpoil The mower's hopes, nor mock the plowman's toil ; But godlike his unwearied bounty flows, Firft loves to do, then loves the good he does. Nor are his bleffings to his banks confin'd, But free and common as the fea or wind, t T o WJwtt 428 VERSES IN PRAISE OF THE THAMES. When he to boaft or to difperfe his ftores, Full of the tributes of his grateful fhores, Yifits the world, and in his flying tow'rs Brings home to us, and makes both Indies ours ; Finds wealth where 'tis, beftows it where it wants* Cities in deferts, woods in cities plants : So that to us nothing, no place is itrange, While his fair bofom is the world's exchange. O could I flow like thee, and make thy dream My great example, as it is my theme ! Tho' deep, yet clear ; tho' gentle, yet not dull ; Strong, without rage ; without o'erflowing, full. Heav'n her Eridanus no more fhall boaft, Whofe fame in thine, like letter currents, loft. APPENDIX. 429 APPENDIX. PAGE 165. "I3EDFORD-ROW, in this neighborhood, took its name from BEDFORD-ROW. *-* the ufes to which thofe lands, and others adjacent, were be- queathed by Sir William Harpur, fon of William Harpur, of Bed- ford-, viz. to found a free and perpetual fchool, in that his native place ; for portioning poor maidens ; for fupporting poor children j and for maintaining the poor with the furplus ; all of them inhabi- tants of the faid town.' Part of the lands were of his own inheri- tance; part belonging to the Chartreux, at that time lately diflblved. Some of the lands were loft, others granted to Sir Thomas Fijher, baronet, for other lands belonging to him ; the remainder granted, in the year 1668, upon leafe, by the corporation of Bedford, truftees to the charity, for the purpofes of building, for the term of forty- one years, at the yearly rent of ninety-nine years : and in 1684, the reverfion to Nicholas Barbon, D. D. for the further term of fifty-one years, at the rent of a hundred and fifty, on the expira- tion of the firft leafe. Bedford-Jlreet, Bedford-row and court, Prin- ces-ftreet, Theobald* s-row, North -fir eet, Eafi-fireet, Lamb's-con- duit-ftreet, Queen fireet, Eagle-fireet, Bcfw el- court, and fcveral other flreets, rofe in confequence, by which the rents were moft conli- derably increafed. A fuit arofe, about the year 1725, between the warden and fellows of New College, and the corporation of Bed- ford, concerning the right of appointing the mafters to the fchool, and their falaries. The fame was decided, in 1725, in favor of the college ; and that the corporation was to pay the head matter thirty A P P N P I X thirty pounds a year, and the ufher twenty ; and the other chari- ties to be paid proportionally to the revenues of the eftate, ON the expiration of the two leafes, in 1760, the annual reve- nues arifingfrom the rents were found to amount to .2,336. 17 s. and the houfes at will to . 273. And it was found that improve- ments might be made which would increafe the revenue fo far as to make the whole amount to . 3,000 a year. In fact, in 1788, they did amount to . 2,917. 17 s. AMONG other regulations, in confequence of the increafed revenue, by an aft made about the year 1762, new houfes were directed to be built for the fchoolmafter, ufher, and writing-maf- ter. The head-mafter's falary to be augmented to . 200 per ann. j the uftjer's to . 100 ; the writing-matter's to . 60. To- wards the portioning of the poor maidens . 800 was to be annu- ally given i . 600 to be annually given towards apprenticing poor children. And I might add feveral other particulars, which I omit, as not relative to the city, the fubjeft of thefe iheets, PAGE APPENDIX. 431 PAGE 274. PARAPHRASE of the i3yth PSALM : alluding to the captivity and ill-treatment of the Weljh Bards by king Edward I. Vide E. Evans. SAD near the willowy Thames we flood, - And curs'd th' inhofpitable flood. Tears, fuch as Patriots weep, 'gan flow, The Client eloquence of woe, When Cambria rufli'd into our mind, And pity with juft vengeance join'd ; Vengeance, to injur'd Cambria due, And pity, O ye Bards ! to you. Silent, neglefted, and unftrung, Our harps upon the willows hung, That " foftly fweet, in Cambrian meafures^ " Us'd to footh our fouls to pleasures ;" When lo ! th' infulting foe appears, And bids us dry our ufelefs tears. " Refume your harps" (the Saxons cry) ** And change your grief to fongs of joy ; " Such as old TalieJJin fang, * What time your native mountains rang " With his rude ftrains, and all around " Seas, rivers, woods, return'd the found." What ! (hall the Saxons hear us fing ? With Cambrian ftrains your vallies ring ? No. let old Coniuy ccafe to flow! Back to her fource Sabrina go ! Let huge Plinlimmon hide his head ! Or let the tyrant ftrike me dead, If I attempt to fing a fong, Unmindful of my country's wrong I What! APPENDIX. What ! fhall an haughty king command A Cambrian hymn, in a flrange land ? May my right hand firfl wither'd be, Or e'er I touch a firing for thee, Proud monarch ! nay, may inflant death Arrefl my tongue, and (top my breath, If I attempt to fmg a fong, Unmindful of my country's wrong! Thou God of vengeance ! dofl thou fleep, When thy infulted Druids weep, The vigors' jeft, the Saxons' fcorn, Unheard, unpity'd, and forlorn ? Bare thy red arm, thou God of ire, And fet their boafted TOWER, on fire ! Remember our inhuman foes, When the firfl Edward furious rofe, And, like a whirlwind's rapid fway, Swept armies, cities, bards away ! High on a rock, o'er Conivy*s flood, The laft furviving poet flood, And curs'd the tyrant as he pafs'd, With cruel pomp, and murd'rous hafte. What now avail our tuneful ftrains, 'Midft favage taunts and biting chains ? Say, wiJl the lark, imprifon'd, fmg So fweet, as when on tow'ring wing He wakes the fongflers of the flcy, And tunes his notes to liberty ? Ah no ! the Cambrian lyre no more Shall fweetly found on drvon's more : No more the SILVER HARP be won, Ye Mufes, by your favorite fon ; (Or I, ev'n I, by glory fir'd, Had to the honor'd prize afpir'd.) No APPENDIX. No more (hall Mona's oaks be fpar'd, Nor Druids' circle be rever'd ; On Con-ivy's banks, and Menai's ftreams, The folitary bittern fcreams ; Where Lenuellyn kept his court, Wolves and ill-omen'd birds refort : There oft', at midnight's filent hour, Near yon ivy- mantled tow'r, By the glow-worm's yellow fire, Tuning his romantic lyre, Grays pale fpeftre Teems to fing '* RuiK SEIZE THEE, RUTHLESS KING!*' 433 A GENERAL 434 APPENDIX. A GENERAL BILL of all the CHRISTNINGS and BURI- ALS from December n, 1787, to December 16, 1788. Ac- cording to the Report made to the KING's Mod Excellent Majefty, by the Company of Pariih Clerks of LONDON, &c. St A LBAN in Wood-ftreet - *\ Alhallovvs Barkin ,Alh Hows ia Bread-itreet Alhallows the Great Alhallows in Honey-lane Alhallows the Lefs Alhallows in Lombard- flreet Alhallows Staining Alhallows on London Wall St Alphage near Sion College St Andrew Hubbard -St Andrew Underfhaft St Andrew by the Wardrobe St Ann within Alderfgate - St Ann in Black Friars St Anthony, vulgarly Antholin - Bt Auguflin, vulgarly Auftin St Bartholomew by Exchange St Benedict, vulgarly Bennet Fink St Bennet Gracechurch St Bennet at Paul's Wharf St Bennet Sherehog St Botolph at Billingfgate - thrift Church Pariih St Chriflopher's Parifli St Clement near Eailcheap JBur. '5 35 9 39 7 9 ii 2 3 2 3 33 66 8 13 6 ii 9 35 4 115 Bur. St Dionis Backchurch - 15 St Dunftan in the Eafl - - 46 St Edmund the King - - 10 St Ethelburga's Parifh - 13 St Faith under St. Paul's - - 31 St Gabriel in Fenchurch-flreet - 10 St George in Botolph-lane - 7 St Gregory by St Paul's - - 56 St Helen near Bifhopfgate - 9 St James in Duke's Place - 7 St James at Garlickhith 8 St John Baptifl by Dowgate - 15 St John the Evangelift St John Zachary - 6 St Katherine Coleman - - 21 St Katherine Creechurch - - 34 St Laurence Jewry - 10 St Laurence Pountney - - 1 1 St Leonard in Eaftcheap - -2 St Leonard in Fofter-lane - St Magnus by London Bridge - 5 St Margaret in Lothbury - - 22 St Margaret Mofes St Margaret in New Fifli-ftreet - 6 St Margaret Pattens - - .1 St Martin in Ironmonger-lane - i St Martin APPENDIX. 435 St Martin within Lu3gate St Martin Orgars St Martin Outwich St Martin Vintrey St Mary Abchurch - St Mary Aldermanbury St Mary Aldermary St Mary Le Bow in Cheapfide St Mary Bothaw at Dowgate St Mary Colechurch St Mary Hill near BillingTgate St Mary Magdalen in Milk-ftreet St Mary Magdalen Old Fifti-ftreet St Mary Mounthaw - St Mary Somerfet- St Mary Staining St Mary Woolchurch St Mary Woolnoth St Matthew in Friday-ftreet St Michael Baflifhaw St Michael in Cornhill St Michael in Crooked. lane St Michael at Qqeenhith Bur. - ii . 6 - 6 - 28 - 12 . 24 - 5 - 9 2 I - 3 27 - 19 Bur. St Michael Le Quern I St Michael Royal ... 6 St Michael in Wood-flreet St Mildred in Bread-itreet - 2 St Mildred in the Poultry - 10 St Nicholas Aeons .- - .-' '* St Nicholas Colcabby 7 ;' - 6- St Nicholas Olave - " St Olave in Hart-flreet - - 38- St Olave in the Old Jewry > . < St Olave in Silver-ftreet - - 18 St Pancras in Pancras-lane St. Peter in Gheapfide - 10 St Peter in Cornhill - - 16 St Peter near Paul's Wharf - 12 St Peter Poor in Broad-ftreet - 8 St Stephen in Coleman-irreet - 50 St Stephen in Walbrook. - - 14 St Swithin at London Stone - 7 St Thomas the Apoflle - - 4. Trinity Parifh - 8 St Vedaft, alias Fofter - - 10 Chriflned in the 97 Parifhes within the Walls, 1 148. Ruried, 1446. St Andrew in Holborn 760 St Bridget, vulgarly St Brides - 175 St Bartholomew the Great 40 St Dunftan in the Weft - 104 St Bartholomew the Lefs ii St George in Southwark . 298 St Botolph by Alderfgate 156 St Giles by Cripplegate 230 St Botolph by Aldgate 353 St John in Southwark - 355 St Botolph without Bifhopfgatfr 306. St Olave in Southwark - 320 3 K z St Saviour 436 APPENDIX. St Saviour in Southwark - St Sepulchre's Parifh Bur. 439 - 33* St Thomas in Southwark - Trinity in the Minories Bur. 140 16 Chriilned in the 16 P^rithes without the Walls, 4791. Buried, 4040. St Ann in Middlefex - - 163 Chrift Church in Surry - -212 Chrift Church in Middlefex - 549 St Dunllan at Stepney - - 406 St George in.Bloomibury - 222 St George in MiddJefex - - 550 St George by Queen's fquare - 217 St Giles in the Fields - - 1180 St James at Clerkenwell - - 778 St John at Cierkcnwdl - 56 St John at Hackney - - - 233 St John at Wapping - 127 St Katherine near the Tower St Leonard in Shoreditch St Luke in Middlefex St Mary at Iflington St Mary at Lambeth Sc Mary Magdalen Bermondfey St Mary at Newington St Mary at Rotherhith St Mary at Whitechapel St Matthew at Bethnal Green St Paul at Shad well 148 75 59 .220 680 525 366 216 748 149 407 ot jonn at wapping 127 Chriftned in the 23 Out-Pariflies in Middlefex and Surry, 8c?8o. -Buried, 9411 St Ann in Weftminfter - . 448 St Clement Danes - 326 St George by Hanov r-fquare .- 1128 St James in Weihninfter - - 838 St John Evasigeliil in Weftminfter 152 St Margaret in Weftminfter St Martin in the Fields St Mary Le Strand The Precindl of the Savoy St Paul in Covent Garden - 766 - 858 - 98 - 69 - "7 Chriftned in the 10 Parifhes in the City and Liberties of Weftminfter, 4640. Buried, 4800. The APPENDIX. 437 The DISEASES and CASUALTIES this YEAR. ABORTIVE and Stilborn - 713 Abfcefs - 1 1 Aged - H 2 4 Ague - 7 Apoplexy and Suddenly - - 229 Afthma and Phthifick -488 Bedridden 6 Bleeding ' 5 Bloody Flux - i Burften and Rupture - - 12 Cancer <- 76 Canker Chicken Pox - 2 Childbed - 197 Cold 1 6 Colick, Gripes, and Twifting^of the Guts . 14 Consumption - - 5086 Convulfions ... - 4485 Cough, and Hooping Cough - 298 Diabetes Dropfy - - iO2j Evil - n Fever, Malignant Fever, Scarlet Fever, Spotted Fever, and Purples - - 2769 Fiftula . . . 2 Flux - - 14 French Pox - . . . Gout - - .. . . . - 58 Gravel, Stone, and Strangury - 59 Grief - - 5 Head-ach - Headmouldfhot, Horfhoehead, and Water in th Head - 44 Jaundies - 53 Impofthume - I Inflammation - - 229 Itch Leprofy - Lethargy - 2 Livergrown - 5 Lunatick - - 46 Meafles - 55 Mifcarriage - Mortification - - - - 218 Palfy - - 62 Pleurify - - - 23 Quinfy - I Ram - "'- 3 Rheumatifm - Rifing of the Lights Scald Head Scurvy ?j '-.*** j.* - - 10 Small Pox - ' - - 1 101 Sore Throat - 13 Sores and Ulcers - - 18 St Aivthony's Fire - 2 Stoppage t. 438 APPENDIX. stoppage in tne atomacn . 9 3* Surfeit .... 3 Tympany ... J Swelling - - Vomiting and Loofenefs - ' - Teeth - 446 Worms 7 BROKEN Limbs - Bruifed - 3 Killed themfelves Licked by a mad Dog - '1 i I 5 Murdered - _ 2 Drowned .... 1 3 Overlaid ... s Exceffire Drinking - 9 Poifoned 2 Executed * 7 Scalded 5 Found Dead - 12 Smothered i Fradured 1 Starved ... 5. Frighted Suffocated 3 Killed by Falls and feveral other Total 266 Accidents 67 Chriilned J Males - 9 8 " Jin all, I Females - 9667 3 T, . j f Males Buried < I Females ^ 99 62 I In all ,9,6^7 97 K 3 Whereof have died, Under Two Years of Age Between Two and Five Five and Ten Ten and Twenty - Twenty and Thirty Thirty and Forty Forty and Fifty Fifty and Sixty 1552 2015 2086 1698 * There have been Executed in Middhfex and Surry, 35 ; of which num. her ( 7 only ) have been reported as fuch within the Bills of Mortality. APPENDIX. Sixty and Seventy Seventy and Eighty Eighty and Ninety Ninety and a Hundred A Hundred - A Hundred and One 1481 1145 460 55 7 t A Hundred and Two A Hundred and Three A Hundred and Four A Hundred and Five A Hundred and Six A Hundred and Thirteen Increafed in the Burials this Year, 348. It is the opinion of Mr. Rlcbardfon, who has ferved the Parifh Offices, that there are near as many buried from London, at different Burial Grounds, with. out as within the above Bills, unnoticed here. Burying Grounds without the Bills, clofe to or in London . Bunhill Fields Lady Huntingdon's, Spa Fields Tattinham-court Road. Many more fuch, befides Maryltbtne and Patterns. INDEX. A. AC O N, St. Thomas of, Hof- pital Page 384 Acutus, Sir John, or Sharp 403 Addifon, his fine Thoughts on the Tombs in Weftminfter Abby 76 Adelphi 133 Admiralty Office 103 Albemarle, or Newcaftle Houfe 196 Aldermanbury 194, 197 Alderfgate 220 Aldgate 246 All Hallows, Barking 254 Almonry, the 81 Andrew's St. Holborn 172 Andrew's St. Underfhaft 396 Antiquities 9, 206, 355 Apothecaries Hall 213 Archery, antient 242 Arlington Houfe 122 Artillery Company 238 Ground, the Old 237 New 238 Arundel Collection '32, 122 Palace 143 Arx Palatina, the Weft 22 the Eaft 256 Afylum, a moft laudable Charity 35 Auto de Fees held in Smithfield 173 B. Bagnios 219 Bailey, Old 216 Bank of England 397 Bankers, their origin 361 an account of 361 Banquetting Houfe Barber Surgeons Hall Barbican, the Bartholomew, St. the greater Bath's Jnn, afterwards Seymour Place Baynard Caftle Bear Garden Beaufort Buildings Beaufoy's Wine Brewery Beaumont Inn Becket, Thomas, where born Bedford Houfe in the Strand Bedford Row . Bell Savage Inn Berehoufe Berkley Houfe Berklhire Houfe - Bermondfey Abby Bethlem, or Bedlam Billingfgate Bifhopfgate Bifhopfgate-ftreet Blackfriers Blackwall Hall Blood, his enormities 124 Bloomlbury Square Botolph's, St. Aldgate Bowl, St. Giles's, what Boy-Bifhop Bretagne, dukes of, their houfe Breweries Bride's, St. Church Bridewell - fine Picture by Holbein Bridge, London Blackfriers 9* 227 224 177 142 317 4 '35 30 316 384 164 '35 429 215 277 117 121 53 234 291 243 242 210 383 266 164 247 161 340 328 278 201 2O 2 204 294 207 Bridge, I N D Bridge, Weftminfter 80,90,321 Bridgewater Houfe 224 Britifti Town, cftablifhment of i Brook Houfe, lord Brook mur- dered there 168 Buckingham Houfe 125 Bucklefbury 387 Bull and Mouth Inn 224 Burials, fnametul and mod dan- gerous, exemplified 162 ljurleigh Houfe, or Exeter Houfe 139 Burley, Sir Simon de, his houie 397 Bufby, Doflor, his Tomb 60 C. 100 Cabinet of Charles I. Cartaret, Philip, beautiful epi- taph on Catherine's, St. Hofpital Catherine Cree, St. Church Cavalini, fine proofs of his fkill in Weftminfter Abby Cefar, Sir Julius, his fingular epitaph Chancery Lane Channel Row Chapter Houfe and Crypt, in Weftminfter 78 Charing Crofs Charles I. fineequeflrian ftatue of buft, by Bernini V. lodged in Bride- well Charter Houfe Portraits there Chaucer's Inn Cheapfide 358, Standard, executions at Crofs, demolition of 367, Chrift-church Priory Hofpital, once the Grey -friers remarkable Por- traits in it Gibber, Gabriel, his fine Statues at Betblem Clarendon Houfe Clements Inn St. Danes Clerkenwell, St. James's Cleveland, or Berkmire Houfe Clifford's Inn Clough, Sir Richard, the original caufe of the Royal Exchange Cobham, Sir John Oldcaftlc, his cruel end Coffins, ftone, modern Cold Harbour College of Phyficians Common Hunt Compter, the new 236 123 146 146 193 121 '55 3 8 9 161 166 305 3 2 3 2 34 21* 184 Conduits 1 15, 163 Cranes, the Three 310 Craven Houfe, once Drury 145 Crofbie Houfe 413 Crown, attempt on, by Blood 266 Crutched friers 251 Cuper's Garden 32 Cuftom-houfe 287 Cufloms in different periods 288 Cutler, Sir John, his two Sta- tues 325, 386 deceives the College or Phyficians 325 Danes, St. Clement's 147 Denham, Sir John, his verfes on the Thames 427 Denmark Houfe 422 Devil Tavern, Ben Jonfon's houfe 155 Devonmire Houfe 117 Square 239 Diftilleries, great 33 Dixie, Sir Wolitan, his portrait 185 Doghoufe, the 233 Dorfet INDEX. Dorfet Houfe 201 Theatre ibid. Dowgate 9, 309 Drapers Hall 406 Drury Houfe 144 Duel, trials by 174 Duke's Place 244 Dunftan's, St. Church 198 Durham Place ill E. Edward I. his Tomb broke open 67 the Black Prince, his ho ufe 304 Ely Houfe 1 70 Englilh Wines 30 Equeltrian Theatres 36 Erber, the 309 EfTex Houfe, the houfe of the ill- fated favourite 147 Exchange, New 133 Exeter 138 the King's, or old 358 Royal 389 Excife Office 412 Execution Dock 282 Exeter, or Burleigh Houfe 138 Houfe 147 Falftaff's Tavern in Eaftcheap 300 Faux, Guy, an inhabitant of Lambeth 29 Finfbury Fields 233 Fire, great, in 1666 302 Fifh of London market in Ed- ward I's time 292 the Thames 425 Fifhmongers Hall 304 Fitz-Oflert, his {lory 466 Fitzwalter, banner-bearer and caftillon of London 317 Fleet Prifon 207 Ditch 205 Street 198 Flemings, cruel maflacre of 371 Fortification of London in 1642 121 Friers, the White 199 the Black -r- 210 CrofTed 251 Furnival's Inn 168 G. Gaming houfe, the 114 Garter place . 225 Garth, Sir Samuel, his lines on queen Anne's Statue 354 George, St. Bloomfbury, its ab- furd fteeple 165 Fields 33 Hofpital _~ 120 Gibbons, his fine font at St. James's 126 Giles St. Cripplegate 226 in the Fields 161 Globe, Shakefpear's Theatre 57 Glocefter, Elinor dutchefs of, her penance 372 Godfrey, Sir Edmondbury, his ftory 14 o Goldfmiths Hall -_ 359 originally Bankers 360 Goodman's Fields 250 Gower, the poet, his tomb 45 Granary, public 302 Grafshopper on the Royal Ex- change 301 Sir Thomas Gre- iham's fign 418 Gray's-inn 166 Greiham College ^ IO Sir Thomas, his great merit 389 his (hop 418 Grocers Hall 386 Grub-ftreet 232 3^2 Gryffydd, INDEX. Gryffydd, a Welfh prince, killed in attempting to efcape from the Tower 273 Guildhall 372 portraits of Judges in 373 great feafts 37410381 Gunpowder plot, fcene of 87 Guy Faux 29 his Cellar 87 Guy's Hofpital 53 JGwynne, Nell, her luxurious apartment 101 H. Hanover-fquare 116 Hatton Garden, and Palace 169 John of Gaunt dies there ibid. great feafts there 170 Hawkwood Sir John, a hero, ori- ginally a Taylor 403 Hayhill, Sir Thomas Wyat's re- mains hung there 116 Haymarket, and Hedge-lane 112 Helen's St. the Lefs, a Priory 415 the Greater, monu- ments in ibid. Heralds College 356 Horfey, chancellor of London di- ocefe, his barbarous murder of Richard Hunn 331 Houblon family 398 Sir John 399 firft governor of the Bank ibid. James, his epitaph 398 Houndfditch 244 Hudfon's Bay houfe 422 Hungerford flairs 129 I. J. James II. his fine ftatue by Gib- bons 103 James's, St. Church 116 fine Font, by Gibbon ibid. Palace 106 portraits in 109 Clerkenwell 193 Jermyn-houfe 125 Jcrufalem Chamber, Henry IV. dies in it 79 Jewry, Old 384 India-houfe 394 Inns orTaverns, antient 243, 300, 310 John, Priory of St. John of Jeru- falem 191 Sir William Wefton 1 ail prior 192 St. Church, Wetiminfler 59 Johnfon, doctor Samuel 200 K. King's-bench Prifon 38 Kings and Queens, tombs of in Wefiminfter Abby 62 to 75 Knightrider-ftreet 358 L. Lambeth Palace \j Library . 20 Portraits 22 Church 24 Laud archbifhop, inftance of his fuperftition 395 Lauderdale houfe 223 Leadenhall 392 Leathern Artillery 26 Lee, 5ir Henry, the aged cham- pion oi queen Elizabeth 96 Leicefter- houfe 112 Lever, Sir Afhton, his matchlefs Mufeum 133 Limehoufe 282 Linacre, inftitutes the College of Phyficians 358 Lincoln's- N E. X. LincolnVInn 158 Fields 159 Lindefay-houfe 1 60 Loke Hofpital 56 Lollards Tower, at Lambeth 19 in St. Paul's 330 Lombard-ftreet 417 London 3 only a Pracfefture 5 name whence derived 16 imports 5 when firft mentioned 6 deftroyed by the Britons " 6, 7 enlarged by the Romans ibid. long an open Town ibid. when walled 7 Antiquities 9, 10, 1 1 Houfe 222 Bridge 240 Wall 239 Long Acre 161 Lords, houfe of 85 of Commons 38 Ludgate 214 Luke's, St. Hofpital 236 Lumley-houfe 252 M. Machabre, or dance of death 330 Magdalen Hofpital 35 Magnus, St. church 300 Man fion -houfe 388 Margaret's, Weftminfter, fine window in 81 Marlborough-houfe in Marriages in the Fleet 208 Marfhalfea Prifon 40 Martin, St. in the Fields 129 Le Grand, its peculiar privileges 362 Mary, St. Overies, Southwark 44 Rounceval 105 Le Strand 139 Spittle 240 Marybone Gardens 123 May Day, evil > 396 May Fair 115 Mayor of London, the firft 15 May-pole in the Strand 144 Mercers-hall 384 Merchant-Taylors-hall 399 Meufe, the 106 Michael's, St. its fine Tower 391 Mill-bank 58 Milliner, the White 134 Minories 249 Mint, the 38 Mobs, barbarity of antient Eng~ lijb, and modern French, paral- leled 268 Montague-houfe 164 Montfichet, Cattle of 211 Tower of 323 Monument, the 302 Moor-gate 234 Fields 233 Mortality, bills of 284 Mufeum, Britifh 164 Myddleton, Sir Hugh, his por- trait 359 forms the New River 197 N. Nag's-head, fcandalous ftory of - 368 Navy Office, old 253 Newcaftle -houfe 160 another in Clerkenwell 196 Newgate 217 Street 218 New River head 197 Nobility, fprung from honed trade 364 Norman Conqueft - 13 Norris, lord, fine figure on his tomb 65 Northnmberland-houfe 128 in Crutched Friers 253 in Alderfgate-ftreet 22* t O. Offley, INDEX. o. Old Bailey 216 Old Jewry 384 Old Temple 166 Olborne, anceftor of the duke of Leeds, his heroifm 298 P. Paget-houfe - Painter-ftainers hall Palace at Weitminfter St. James's Whitehall Scotland-yard Pall Mall Pannier Alley Papey, the Paris Garden H7 316 82 106 9 104 in 219 410 40 Parim Clerks, antient ac~lors 194 Paul's, St. Cathedral 328 burnt in 1086 " 329 again in the great fire 351 Chapter-houfe 330 Lollards Tower ibid. antient Tombs and Shrines 334 fingular offering 339 Bifhop's Palace at 341 dimenficns of St. Paul's and St. Petei's at Rome 352 Angular offering of a Doe 339 Paul's crofs, its various ufes 342 to 350 Paul's walkers, what 353 Peccadilla-hall 114 Pennant, William, goldfmith 176 Peit-houfes 114 Phyficians, College of 325 portraits in 326 once in Knightridera- flreet 358 Pindar, Sir Paul, his great wealth and misfortunes -r- 414 Plague, when it ceafed in this kingdom 303 Pleureurs, what 64, 410 Pole, de la, art unfortunate race 420 Poplar Cut 283 Poll Office, its periodical revenue 418 Poultney-lnn r 305 Powis-houfe 165 Pretender, his birth 108 Printing- houfe, the King's 214 Puddle Dock 323 Queenhithe . 31.5 R. Radcliff 282 Highway 286 Rag-fair 286 Requelts, Court of 86 Richard II. original portrait of 70 Ring, the 120 River, New 197 Rolls, the 155 monuments in the Chapel 156 Rotherhithe 56 Rouncevaux, St. Mary 105 Royal Exchange 389 Society, its inftitution 411 RufTel lord, his execution 160 S. Sachevcrel, do&or, battle between him and Whifton 173 Saint Saviour's Dock, Southwark 55 Saint N D E X. Saint Stephen's chapel, beautiful remains of 89 Salisbury Court 200 Sanftuary in Weftminfter . 80 Savoy Hofpitaf, the 1^5 Scarborough, Sir Charles, his por- trait 230 Scotland, kings of, their pahce 104 Sepulchre's, St. pious admonitions to condemned criminals i.i their way to death 220 St. Church 220 Serjeants-Inn 155 Seymour, lord high admiral, his practices on the princeis Eliza- beth 142 Seymour Place 132 Shadwell 282 Shaftfbury-houfe 222 Sharrington-houfe 253 Shaw, do&or, preaches at Paul's crofs 347 Shoreditch 242 duke of ibid. Shore, Jane, her llory 343 Sion College 231 Skating, antient method of 133 Smithheid 173 Tournaments there 174 Society, Royal, its origin 411 Soho-fquare, origin of the name 117 Somerfet-houfe 139 Soredich, Sir John de 242 Southampton-houfe 167 South- Sea houle * 405 Southwark 36 Specula, Roman 9 Speed, John, thehiftorian 403 Spittle-fields 241 Spittle, St. Mary 240 Spreaders of rumours, unjuft exe- cution of one 248 Stafford, lord, infamoufly con- demned 122 Stationers hall 328 Steel-yard 307 Steel-yard, two remarkable paint- ings there by Holbein Stephen's, St. Walbrooke Stephen, Sir, a wretched fanatical prieft 248, Stepney Stews Stocks Market Stone, artificial Stow, John, hi s houfe monument Strand, its antient (late Surgeons, Barber-furgcons Surgeons Theatre . Surgery, its ftate in the reign of Henry VIII. Stuart, lady Arabella, her ilory Surry, County Sutton, Mr. his vail charities T. Tabard, Chaucer's Inn Tart Hall Taylors of diilinguifhcd charac- ters Temple, the Monuments in its round Church Hall, great Chriftmas feails there Gate, involuntary work of Sir Amius Pow- let Garden, fcene of the white and red rofe Old Temple-bar Temple, Mr. fon of Sir W. Temple, his fuicide Thames, river, its courfe its Filh Thames-ftreet Thanet Haule Thavies Inn Thomas, St. Hofpita\ 307 38* 396 280 43 38^ 30 248 397 126 226 216 229 271 17 188 57 122 402 146 154 166 146 300 4*3 4 Z > 323 222 168 50 Thread- I N D X. Threadneedle-ftreet 397 Thynne, Mr. his murder 125 Tilt Yard 94 Tombs in Weftminfter Abby 62 in St. Paul's 334 Tons, vaft 31 Torregiano Pietro, his work in England 73, 157 Tortoife at Lambeth, its vaft longevity 23 Tower, the 255 murders within 257 Chapel of, perfons buried in 262 lawlefs executions in 268 natural deaths in 269 the White 256 Lions 258 Tower-hill, perfons beheaded on 260 Tower Royal 314 Town Ditch 210 Tradefcants, their Tomb 28 Mufeum 27 Train-bands 238 Trinity Houfe 289 Tudor, Owen, confined in New- gate 274 Tyburn 163 V. Vauxhall 29 Vefpers, fatal 213 Viaualling Office 286 Finer, Sir Robert, his houfe 419 his conviviali- ty with Charles II. 420 Vintners Hall 3 ri Vintrie, the 310 W. Walbrook 399 Walls, city, courfe of 209 Wapping 281 Waxchandlers, their frugal feaft 382 Welby, Henry, his fingular life 232 Wells, river of 309 Welfh MSS. deftroyed in the 173 Tower 174 confined in the Tower, verfes on 43 1 Weftminfter 58 Bridge 90 Palace 8z Hall ~ ibid. Abby 59 Lying-in Hofpital 35 Weftmoreland Houfe 223 Whitechapel 248 Whitehall palace, and fine gates 92,93 Whitdngton, Sir Richard, his good deeds 182, 313 ftory of his cat paralleled 313 Wimbleden Houfe 138 Winchefter Houfe, Southwark 48 Broad-ftreet 409 Wines, Englim, Meflrs. Beau- foy's manufacture 30 Woolftaple at Weftminfter 90 Worcefter Place, the houfe of John Tiptoft Houfe in the Strand Wyat, Sir Thomas, where taken 3'5 135 215 Y. York Houfe Stairs 13 131 N S. ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS TO THE FIRST EDITION Mr, Pennants Account of London* L O N D O NJ PRINTED FOR ROBERT FAULDER> N 42, NEW BOND-STREET. M,DCCiXCL ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS, FROM THE SECOND EDITION. PAGE 8. After the account of the extent and form of the walls, add, That the Romans had a fort on the fpot at pre- fent occupied by the Tower, is now paft doubt, fince the difcovery of a filver ingot, and three gold coins ; one of the emperor Hono- rius, the others of Arcadius. Thefe were found in 1777, in digg- ing for the foundation of a new office for the Board of Ordnance, through the foundation of certain antient buildings, beneath which they were met with on the natural ground. The ingot was in form of a double wedge, four inches long, and two and three quarters broad in the broadeft part, and three-eighths of an inch thick in the middle; it appears to have been caft firft, and then beaten into form by a hammer j its weight is ten ounces eight grains of the troy pound. In the middle is ftruck, in Roman letters, EX OFFIC HONORII This is fuppofed to have come from the royaJ mint, then at Con-. B Jiantinople, ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. y and intended to afcertain the purity of the filver coin, that might have been fent over with it, Honor tus reigning over th empire of the weft, as Arcadhis did over that of the call. This was at the expiration of the Roman power in Britain. The coins were fuppofed to have been part of the money fent to pay the laft legion which was ever fent to the affiftance of the Britons. The 'Tower was the treafury in which the public money was de- polited. The coins are in fine prefervation. On the reverfe is an armed man treading on a captive, with the legend VICTO- RIA AVGGG, and at the bottom CON OB. The firft al- ludes to the fuccefs of the legion againft the Pifts and Scots-. C O N O B. may intend Conftantinopoli obfignata *. THE Charter of Wdlimn the Conquer or > given in p. 13, is more accurately printed in Strypis Stow, as follows : " William kyng gret William Bifceop, and Gosfregth Porterefan, and ealle tha Burhwarn binnen I,ondone, Frencifce and Englifce frendlice* And ic kithe eow thaet ic wille thaet get ben eallra theera laga weorde the git weeran on Eadwerdes daege kynges. And ic wille theet aelc child beo his faeder yrf nume after his faeder daege. And ic nelle ge wolian thaet aenig man eow eanig wrang, beode. God eow ge healde f." P. 22. To the account of the portrait of Katherme Parr, fub- join, The fmall oval print I am poflefled of, (without date J) * See the learned Dean Af;7/'s effay on thefe fubjefts in the Arckaelogia, v- p. 291. tab. xxv. f Strype's Stow. I No name of the engraver. Perhaps by Robert White. See Mr. Granger, oftavo, i. 77. infcribed ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS.' infcribed round the margin " Effigies CATHERINE PIUNCIPIS ARTHUR i UXORIS HENRICO User ttkpf** with a wondrous blundering inscription beneath, is afluredly no other than the print of Katherine Parr ; and in the rich drefs, and in feature, has the ftrongeft refemblance to the Lambeth portrait : and without a fm- gle trace of the print, -among the illuftrious heads engraved by Houbraken, as that of Katberine of Arragon. P. 38. After the defcription of St. George's CburcJ^ Soutb-wark> add, In old times there was a village called St. George's, now part of Southward independent of the borough. Polydore Virgil calls it " Suburbanus Divi Georgii vicus * > P. 48. To the account of Wimheftei*-houfe> add, On the de- fertion of this palace, the prelates of Wmchefter had another al- lotted to them at Chelfea* P. 49. John Fletcher^ the celebrated dramatic poet of the reign of James I. was buried in this church, Auguft the ipth, 1625, aged 49. He died of the plague : his memory is preferred in his works : for I do not find either monument or epitaph to deliver down his fame to pofterity* P. 52. To the account of Mr. Guy, add, He was the fon of an Anabapttft lighterman and coalmonger, in Southward On the death of his father, his mother brought him to famworth, her * Stoiv's Survaie, p. 403. 410. edi 1618. B 2 native ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. native town j and at a fit age bound him apprentice to a book- binder and bookfeller, in Cbeapftde. On the expiration of his term, he fet up for himfelf with the fmall Hock of two hundred pounds. He joined himfelf with a fet of bookfellers, who car- ried on a trade in bibles, printed in, and fmuggled out of Holland, to the great injury of the lawful printers. This was done for a confiderable time ; till the king's printers, by feveral profecutions and feizures, obliged thefe illicit traders to defift. But Guy, more artful and more pertinacious than his late partners, prevaled on the univerfity of Oxford to contract with him for their privi- lege of printing bibles. But it is generally fuppofed that his great wealth was acquired by thofe articles in which Heaven moft certainly had no concern. Attached to Tamworth, he found- ed there an almfhoufe and a library j and left a fund for their maintenance, as well as for the apprenticing poor children be- longing to the town -, which chofe him for one of its reprefenta- tives *. To the end of the account of Guy's Hofyital, p. 53, fubjoin, Mr. Maltland obtained a Jeptenary account of the patients ad- mitted into this holpital between the years 1728 and I734> by which we learn, that in thefeven years they amounted to 12,402 j and that the total difburfements in the year 1738 amounted to feven thoufand nine hundred and feventy-eight pounds : and then the houfe contained twelve wards, and four hundred and thirtf- five beds. * Maitland, ii. 1306. P. 59 . ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 5 P. 59. Mr. Archer was the architect of St. John the Evangelift y but Sir John Vanbrugh has ufually the difcredit of this pile *. P. 6 1. After the paragraph ending w ith " priftine place," add, This church had been a noted fanctuary, and was one of thofe exempted from fuppreffion . by Henry VIII. Stow thinks that the privilege was granted to this church by its founder, king Se- bert. That yenerable and able antiquary the Reverend Mr. Pegge, inclines to think that it only took place after the canonization of Edward the Confeffor, in 1 198. I refer to his elaborate work on the fubject of fanftuaries, in the eighth volume of the Arcbaelogia. I fhall here only mention a very remarkable inftance of a moft facrilegious violation of the privilege in this very church : in which, in the year 1378, Robert Haute, and JohnSchakel, efquires, had taken refuge, for no other realbn than to fave their perfons from the rage of John of Gaunt, duke of Lancafter, for refufing to deliver to him a French hoflage, to whofe ranfom they had a / right. The duke fent here fifty armed men. They firft fedured / Schakel from the fanftuary. Haule refufed to confide in their promifes; but remained at the altar, attending at high mafs. Haule made a manful refiftance with his fhort fword, and drove them into the chancel, where he was (lain. In his laft words he recommended himfelf to God, the avenger of fuch injuries ; and to the liberty of our holy mother the church. With him was For this, and a number of other corrections and additions, I am obliged to the MS. notes of Mr. GRAY, in an interleaved copy of London and its Ex- virons, which I had the honor of perufing laft fpring, by the favor of the Earl of HARCOVRT. murdertd ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS, murdered his fervant, and a monk who had entreated the afiafiirts not to violate the holinefs of the place. Haule was interred in the abbey. Part of an infcription, relative to this cruel aft, was remaining on a brafs, in the time of Werner *. Sudbury, archbi- mop of Canterbury, made complaint in parlement of this breach of privilege. The church was (hut about four months, till it was purified from the profanation. The offenders were excommuni- cated, a large fum of money paid to the church, and all its pri^ vileges confirmed in the next parlement* P. 6 1. In the account of the rebuilding of Weftminfter Abbey ^ by Henry III, fubftitute as follows i He did not live to complete his defign, which was carried on by his fucceflbr, but may be faid to have never been finifhed. It was flowly carried on by fucceeding princes, and, from the portcullis on the roof of the laft arches, it appears that Henry VII. or VIII. had a concern in the repairs, that being the device of thofe monarchs. It was never finifhed : the great tower, and two weftern towers, remain- ing incomplete at the reformation ; after which the two prefent towers arofe. That in the centre is wanting* A cafual fire had long before deftroyed the roof ; but by the piety of Edward I. and feveral of the abbots it was reftored to the beauty and fplendor we fo juftly admire. P. 62. After the defcription of Edward the Confeflbr's Shrim, add, Round this chapel are twelve others, all built by Henry III* They were after-thoughts, and formed no part of the original * Funeral Monuments, 484, 5. defign* ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. dcfign. Before this flirine feem to have been offered thcfpolta opima. The Scotch regalia, and their facred chair from Scone, were offered here : and Atyhonfo, third Ton to Edward I. who died in his childhood, prefented the golden coronet of our unfortunate prince the laft -Llewelyn. P. 64. To the delcription of the antient tombs, prefix this pa- ragraph, As far as refpects the figures on the antient tombs, there was a dull uniformity. They generally were recumbent ; often with their hands joined and erect. If their Ipoufes were placed on their fide, as a mark of conjugal affection, the hand of one was clafped in that of the other. Frequently the legs of the hero were crofTed, in cafe he had gained that honourable privilege by the merits of a crufade, and his hand was employed in the menacing action of unfheathing his fword. P. 65. After " funerals of the great," read In our capital, the fraternity of Auguftme Papey, the threefcore priefts of Leaden- ball, and the company of parifh-clerks, (killed in finging diriges and the funeral offices, were accuftomed to attend the folemn burials. Taftelefs as the figures of the deceafed may have been, yet the ornaments above are often in the richeft ftyle that the wild unfettered genius of Gothic architecture could invent. Fine and light fculpturc of foliage, of animals, or human forms. The monuments of Aymer de Valence earl of Pembroke, who was mur- dered in France in 1323, and Edmund Crouchback earl ofLaticaJter, (both in this abby) are magnificent fpecimens. On the fide of theie tombs are the figures of the fleurcurs, or mourners, exem- x plified ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. plified in numbers of other tombs in this kingdom. Mr. Gotigk has favored us with very elegant figures of both thefe, in his fplendid work of Britijh fepulchral monuments. P. 70. RefpecYmg the picture of Richard \\. read We muft allow it had been re-painted, yet without fabrication of color ; but nothing feems altered in the outline, if we may collect from the print made by Vertue> excepting a correction in the fite of the crofs iffuing out of the globe. It was retouched by Vandyk> and again about the year 1727. P. 8 1. For Waltham Abbey , read the private chapel of the abbot of Waltham, at Copt-hall. P. 84. After in the reign of Henry VIII. for the abby of St. Eenet Holme, in Norfolk- The next year Charles Brandon, duke of Suffolk, exchanged his houfe, called Southwark-place, for it. In queen Mary's reign it was purchafed by Heath archbiftiop of Tork, and called Tork- bouje. Toby Matthew, archbiihop in the time of James I. ex- changed it with the crown, and had feveral manors in lieu of it. The lords chancellors Egerton and Bacon refided in it: after which it was granted to the favorite Villiers duke of Bucking- ham, who made it a magnificent houfe. In* 1648 the parlement beftowed it on lord Fairfax j whofe daughter and heir marrying* George Fitters, fecond -duke of Buckingham, it reverted again to the true owner,, who for fome years after the Reftoration refided in it,.- P. 131, ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. P. 131. To the firft fentence refpefting Durham-place ', fubfti- tute this-^Durbam-yard takes its name from a palace, built ori- ginally by Anthony de Beck, patriarch of Jerufalem, and bifliop of Durham, in the reign of Edward I j defigned by him for the town refidence of him and his fuccefibrs. But it was rebuilt by bilhop Thomas de Hatfield, who died in 1381. Bifliop Tunftal exchanged it with Henry VIII. who made it a palace. Edward VI. gave it for life to his fitter Elizabeth : but Mary, confidering the gift a facrilege, granted the reverfion to the fee of Durham. Ibid. After the word " neighbors," add How many ima- ginary Parks have been formed within precincts where deer were never feen ! and how many houfes, mifnamed Halls, which never had attached to them the privilege of a manor ! P. 133. To the paragraph on Durham-houfe, add In 1640 it was purchafed of the fee by Philip earl of Pembroke, who pulled it down and built houfes on the fite. Thefe were the houfes purchafed by the two brothers for the Adelphi buildings. P. 135. After " Inigo Jones" add The ceiling, which is now gone, was painted by Edward Pierce, fenior, a pupil of VandycKs. P. 136. After " battle of Poitiers" add After his releafe, he made a vifit to his brother in 1363, and died in this his anticnt prifon the 8th of April following. He was a prince of the ftricteft honor \ for he came over to apologife for the efcape of one of his fons, whom he had left a hoftage for the performance of cer- tain treaties. P- 137- ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 15 P. 137. After the mention of the fuppreflion of the Savoy, by queen Elizabeth, add In 1612, the Prince's wardrobe was at the Savoy. That illuftrious nobleman, George Clifford earl of Cumberland, died here in the Dutcby-houfe in 1605 -, as did Wil- liam Compton firft earl of Northampton, in 1630. f Ibid. The church of St. Mary le Savoy is engraven in tab. xii. vol. ii. of the Vetufta Monument a. *P. 140. For, ff his Catholic fpoufe," read the defigned Ipoule of Charles I. when prince of Wales. Ibid, After the above paragraph, add This palace was im- proved and beautified by the queen dowager Henrietta Maria, in 1662, when fhe flattered herfelf with the hopes of patting the remainder of her days in England. Two of our moft celebrated poets, Cowley and Waller, thought proper to offer their incenfc on her majefty's attention to Somerfet-houfe. One of Waller\ thoughts is tender and elegant. Conilant to England in your love, As birds are to their wonted grove: Tho' by rude hands their nefts are fpoil'd, There, the next fpring, again they "build. P. 141. To the clofe of the account of Sir Edmonbury God- frey, fubjoin I wifh I could exculpate the zealots of that reign, from giving ample caufe (in this and other inftances) to the Ca- tholics to recriminate on them the unjuft executions of the period of Henry and Mary. P. 143- 16 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. P. 143. In the account of Arundel-palace, after the words, " remain indifputable," fubftitute to the reft cf the paragraph what follows It was pulled down in the laft century; but the family name, and the titles, are retained in the ftreets which rofe on their fites, viz. that of Howard, Norfolk, Arundel, and Surry. There was a defign to build a manfion-houfe for the family, out of the accumulated rents, on that part of the gardens which lay next to the river : an act of parlement was obtained for the pur- pofe *, but the plan never was executed. P. 144. Drury-bouje. After " precedency," add Sir Ro- bert, his fon, was a great patron of Doctor Donne, and afligned to him apartments in this houfe f. P. 146. For " Harold the Barefooted," read Harold the Hare- foot. P. 148. Temple-bar.. After " rails and chains," add On the eaft fide, in the niches, are the ftatues of James and Anne of Denmark, not without fome animation ; and on the oppofite, thofe of Charles I. and Charles II i all by John Bujhnel, who died in 1701. P. 150. 1. i. for "Saxon," read Norman. P. 152. For the paragraph marked HALL, fubftitute die fol- * Anecdotes of the Howard family, by the Hon. Cbarlet Howard, p. 93. f ir 7. Cutlum's Hift. of Hwwfttd, p. 144. lowing ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 17 lowing The magnificent hall of the Middle Temple was rebuilt in the treafurerfhip of Plowden. The roof is venerably con- ftructed with timber. Along the fides of the hall are the coats of arms of the Readers, from Richard S'wayne, dated 1597, to Wil- liam Graves, efq; in 1790. The place is ft ill preferved, and the readers annually elected ; but the lectures or readings long fmce difufed. The length of the hall (including the pafiage) is a hun- dred feet : of the crofs poft at the top fixty-four. This noble room efcaped the great fire, which deftroyed moft of the Temple which lay to the eaft. The hall of the Inner Temple is ornamente d with emblematical paintings by Sir James Thornhill. P. 153. 1. 3. For " this hall," read the hall of the Liner Temple. P. 156. After " Domus Ccnverforum," add I queftion whe- ther the Mafter of the Rolls does not to this day receive an annual ftipend at the exchequer as for Jewi/h converts ? P. 159. Lincoln's -Inn-Fields. After "plan," read as follows : The difpofition of thofe grounds was, in 1618, by a commiflion from the king, entrufled to the care of the lord chancellor Bacon, the earls of Worcefter, Pembroke, Arundel, and numbers of other noblemen, and principal gentry. In the commiflion it is alleged, <{ That more public works, near and about the city of London, had been undertaken in the fixteen years of that reign, than in ages heretofore : and that the grounds called Lincolnes-Inn-Fields were much planted round with dwellings and lodgings of noble- D men 18 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. men and gentlemen of qualitie : but at the fame time it was de- formed by cottages and mean buildings, incroachments on the fields, and nufances to the neighborhood. The commifiioners were therefore directed to reform thofe grievances j and, accord- ing to their difcretion, to frame and reduce thofe fields, both for fweetnefs, uniformitie, and comelines, into fuch walkes, parti- tions, or other plottes, and in fuch forte, manner, and forme, both for publique health and pleafure, as by the faid Inigo Jonef (recited in the commiffion) is or fhall be accordingly drawn, by way of map V Thus authorized, Inigo drew the ground-plot, and gave it the exact dimenfions of the bafe of one of the pyra- mids of Egypt. P. i6j. The manor of ly&ourne was held before the Conqueft by the abbefs of Berchinges, or Berking in Effex. P. 164. For " Sir Courtly Nice," read Gibber's play of the Sick Lady cured. The dutchefs died at the age of 96. P. 167. After the account of the Old Temple, add Between Chancery-lane and Turn/tile is to be feen a fign which I thought only exifted in one of the prints of the humorous Hogarth j I mean, that of St. John^s head in a charger, infcribed GOOD EAT- ING WITHIN : but here, inftead of the inviting infcription of the droll artiflv the publican blunts the oddity of his fign by the two words > Calvert's Entire* * Rymtr* xvii. 119, 120., P. ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. P. 169. Under Hatton Garden Her letter to the poor bifhop was dictated in terms as infolent as indecent. Proud Prelate ! " You know what you was before I made you what you *' are now j if you do not immediately comply with my requeft, by G d, I will unfrock you. ELIZABETH." P. 173. To the conclufion of the account of Holbount t add- Before I quit this long ftreet, let me add, that Holeburne was, at the time of forming the Dome/day-book, a manor belonging to the king. P. 175. Add to the account of executions in Smithfitltf Our gracious Elizabeth could likewife burn people for religion. Two Dutchmen, anabaptifts, fuffered in this place in 1575, and died, as Holinjhed fagely remarks, with " roring and crieing *." But let me fay, that this was the only inftance we have of her exerting the blefled prerogative of the writ deHaretico comburendo. Her highnefs preferred the halter: her fullen fitter, faggot and fire. Not that we will deny but Elizabeth made a very free ufc of the terrible act of her 27th year: a hundred and fixty-eighc fuffered in her reign, at London, Tork, in Lancajhire, and feveral other parts of the kingdom, convicted of being pricfts, of har- boring priefts, or of becoming converts f. But Hill there is a P. 1261. f Ded's Church Hiftory, ii. 321. D 2 balance so ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. balance of a hundred and nine againft us in the article perfecution, and that, by the agonizing death of fire : for die fmalleft number eftimated to have fuffered under the favage Mary, amounts, in her Ihort reign, to two hundred and feventy-feven *. P. 179. In the hall of St. Bartholomew's Hojpital is alfo a por- trait of Charles II. done by J. Baptift Gaffers, called Lelfs Baptifi. P. 183. After the account of the monuments in Chrift-churcb, add With forrow I record, that all thefe antient monuments and grave-ftones were fold) in 1545, by Sir Martin Bowes, lord mayor, for about fifty pounds. P. 189. To the mention of Mr. Sutton's portrait, fubjoin the following account of him: Mr. Sutton was defcended from a good family in the county of Lincoln ; and became, in the reign of queen Elizabeth, one of the greateft merchants in our capital. Great as his wealth was, he was more diftinguifhed by his inte- grity, generofity, and true charity than by his riches, which were all gained by fair trade, by honorable pofts under government, and even by deeds of arms. In a letter of marque he took a Spanijh prize, worth twenty thoufand pounds. He commanded the bark called the Sutton, as a volunteer againft the Spanijh- Ar- mada. I will return to his charities, to mention one fpecies, which I recommend in the flrongeft manner to all whom Heaven hath blefled with th luxurious power of doing good : he was fftjt/in> and other Hiftorians. ufed., ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. ai irfed, in dear years of grain, to buy great quantities, and to caufe it to be retailed at lower prices to his poor neighbors. By this plan he relieved their wants, he took away the caufe of riots, and probably prevented the rife of infectious diforders, by the necef- fitated ufe of bad and unwholefome diet. P. 191. After fee Cent. Mag. vol. Iviii. 501, 853. P. 1 94. After the account of the plays at Ckrkemuett, add Near this well was another, called Skinners welt, at which the Skinners of London hold, fays Stow, " certain playes yeerely, " plaid of holy fcripture." * Stryfe's Annals, i. 269. P. 204, ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. P. 204. Bridewell. Much of the original building yet re- mains j fuch as great part of one court, with a front, feveral arches, octagon towers, and many of the walls; and the magnificent flight, &c. iO P. 205. For 1741, read 1714; and for Kirk Leedbam, read Kirk Lethatn. P. 210. After the account of the Town-ditch ', add Near it, In the courfe of the wall, flood the Tower on the City Wally built at the expence of die city, in the reigns of Edward I. and II. in which thofe kings occafionally refided. It ftood till the I7th of Henry VII. when it was pulled down. P. 212. Concerning the difiblution of the Black Friars houfe, read Bilhop Ft/her held it in commendam-, and in 1538, with fifteen brethren, furrendered it to the king. The prior's lodg- ings, and the hall, were fold to Sir Francis Bryan, in 1547. Edward 'VI. afterwards granted the reft to Sir Thomas Cawardex. P. 220. To Cf king of Virginia's daughter," add the following note See the dedication of his general hiftorie of Virginia, &c. to Frances dutchefs of Richmond^ printed fa Michael Sparks, 1625. A moft curious book. And Churchill's Coll. Voy. ii. 387, 393. P. 222. After " the family refided," add till the year 1639. In 1657 it was found to belong to Henry Pierfoint, marquis of Dorchefter. P. 223, ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 23 P. 223. For " the Perries, earls,'* read Henry Piercy, firft earl; and to the paragraph, add On the attainder of that great peer, Henry IV. gave it to his queen Joan, and it was called the wardrobe. P. 224. For Henry VII. read Henry VIII ; after which add In Noble-ftreet, near Alderjgate, was Shelley -houfe, built by Sir Thomas Shelley, in the firft of Henry IV. Sir Nicholas Bacon re- built it, in the time of queen Elizabeth >, when it was called Bacon- boufe. Ibid. After Willoughby, of Parham, add Here was of old a manor-houfe of the king's, called Bafe-court, or Barbican, de- ftroyed in 1251. But it was reftored, as appears above. P. 225. After the paragraph on Garter-place, add In Golden- lane, near the Barbican, flood a row of low houfes, of fingular conftrudion, which, according to the infcription beneath a fmall print in my pofTefiion, had been a nurfery for the children of Henry the eighth. It had been alfo a playhoufe in part of the reign of queen Elizabeth and her fucceflbr. P. 226. After Sir Drue Drury, add In this, or an adjacent ftreet, I am told that general Monk, afterwards duke of Albemarle* had his houfe. P. 227. To the account of tombs in St. Giles's, Cripplegate, add Here alfo lies the illuftrious MILTON, who was buried in 24 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. in th'n- church, on November I2th, 1674, from his houfe in Bunhill-felds : probably according to his defire, in order to be near his father, whom, about the year 1647, ne na d interred in this church. In the fame church is a beautiful monument, by Bacon) of Mrs. Hand, wife to the prefent rector. P. 231. After the account of Dr. Scarborough, add In the lame ftreet (at the end of Silver -ftreet} flood Neville' s-im. The houfe of John lord Neville, in the 48th of Edward III. Ralph Neville, earl of Weftmoreland, died poflefled of it in the 4th of Henry IV. as well as of the Erber on Dowgate-hill. In 1558, it was the property of lord Windjor, and called Windjor --place. Doctor Arris, who compofed the infcription under Doctor Scar- borough's picture, was a phyfician, and of Brazen Ncfe College, Oxford, and ferved in parlement for St. Albans, in 1661. deed's Athen. Ox. Fa/}, ii. p. 96, P. 232. Before Grub-ftreet, infert the following article: Near the corner of the wall, to the north of Sion College, flood the chapel of St. James's in the Wall, belonging to an hermitage de- pendent on the abby of Gerandon, in Leicefterjhire, as early as the year 1298. The abbot placed here two chaplains, Ciftercian monks of their houfe, to pray for the fouls of Aymer de Valence earl of Pembroke, and Mary his wife. After the diflblution it was granted to William Lambe, one of the gentlemen of the chapel to Henry VIII. citizen and cloth-worker, who endowed and ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 25 and gave it to the cloth-workers of London. Here the company have four fermons preached to them annually, on which times, the mailer, wardens, and livery of the company, after the fermon, relieve with clothing and money twelve poor men, and as many women. This was but a fmall part of the charities of this good man, which extended over moft parts of the city. Lamb's Con- duit-fields took their name from one of them. He founded in that tract, or on the part to which they did in his days extend, /everal conduits, diftinguifhed by a lamb on the top of the build- ings. Thefe were of no fmall fervice before the bringing of the New River to fupply the capital. This worthy benefactor died in 1577, was buried in St. Faifb's church, and is commemorated by an epitaph filled with irrefiftible puns on his innocent name. P. 233. Addition to Moorfields : Thefe fields were, till of late years, the haunt of moft motley amufements, and fome of not the moft innocent nature j among them was every allurement to low gaming, by little fraudulent tricks. It was likewife the great Gymnafium of our capital, the refort of wreftlers, boxers, runners, and foot-ball players, and every manly recreation. Here the mountebanks fet up their ftages, and difpenfed infallible medi- cines, for every fpecies of difeafe, to the gaping gulls who fur- rounded them. Here too, I lament to fay, that religion fet up its ftage itinerant, beneath the fhade of the trees ; and here the pious, well-meaning IVhitefield long preached fo fuccefsfully, as to fteal from a neighboring charlatan the greater part of his numerous ad- mirers, in defiance of the eloquence of the doctor, and the \vitty fallies of his pied attendant. The faithful merry andreiv told his mafter not to be difcouraged : he would engage foon to diflodge E this 16 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. this powerful adverfary. He accordingly climbed a tree above the head of the zealous preacher, who, in the midft of an ecftatic attitude, received from the impious wretch the full effects of a moft active drug, and was forced to quit his difcourfe with the utmoft precipitation. But andrew found it difficult to elcape with his life; for he was aflailed on all fides by fhowers of flones from the juftly enraged congregation j and long felt, in his bat- tered bones, the confequence of his wit. Mr. Whi'tefield ufed often to relate the adventure with much humor : and I received the account from a gentleman who heard him defcribe his pite- ous mifhap. P. 236. The front of St. Luke's Hofyital is four hundred and ninety-three feet. P. 237. After the account of the Hofpital, add Immediately behind this hofpital is Peerlefs-pool, in name altered from that of Perillous-pond, fo called, fays old Stow, from the numbers of youths who had been drowned in it in fwimming *. In our time it has, at great expence, been converted into the fined and moft fpatious bathing place now known ; where perfons may enjoy the manly and ufeful exercife with fafety. Here is alfo an excellent bath, a large pond flocked with fiih, a library, a bowling-green, and every innocent and rational amufement: fo that it is not without reafon that the proprietor hath beflowed on it the prefent name. Survaie, iS. ? 244- ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. P. 244. After " for his horfe," add In this ftreet Hands the houfe inhabited by the once opulent Sir Paul Pindar, which is faithfully engraven in one of the European magazines *, I think that it is at prefent a public-houfe ; and has for die fign, a head called that of the original owner. P. 245. To die account of Duke's -place, fubjoin In Dukis- place the Jews Synagogue has been lately rebuilt, in a beautiful ftyle of the fimpleft Grecian architecture, by Mr. SpiHer, furveyor, and confecrated in a fplendid and folemn manner. P. 246. 1. antepenult, dele " what was peculiar to it." P. 248. Before the paragraph on Stow, infert In the cceme- tery of this church is the very remarkable tomb (in the altar form) of Coya Sbawfware, a merchant, and fecretary to Nogdi-beg, the Perjian embafiador. Around the margin is an infcription in the Perfean tongue. Shaw/ware died here in 1626, aged 44. The embaflador, the fon of the deceafed, and numbers of Per/tans at- tended, and performed the funeral rites, according to the forms of their religion : his fon was the principal in the ceremony, who fat crofs-legged at the north end of the grave, fometimes reading, fometimes finging, and with all the expreflions of the trueft filial arFe&ion. During a month after, the friends of die deceafed vtfited the grave morning and evening, and made their orifons on the fpot, till they were driven away by the rudenefs of the Engli/b mob. In the latter end of the reign of Jamts I. great efforts were * It is alfo engraven in a beautiful work now in publication by Mr. J. T. Smith, ef Edmonton, Sets of prints for the illustration of my account of London. E 2 made ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. made to eftablifh a trade with Perfia. The great emperor Abbas fent this embafiador to our court. The famous traveller Sir Robert Shirley, and Sir Dodmore Cotton, difcharged the fame office on our part, and both died at Cajlin, in the year 1628. Nogdi- beg> the Perfian embafTador, poifoned himfelf, on his return home, dreading the refentment of his matter for his treacherous mifre- prefentation of our illuftrious Shirley *. P. 249. To the account of Whitechapel church, fubjoin In the latter end of the reign of queen Anne, this church was pro- phaned by a moft libellous and fcandalous picture of the Laft Supper, placed above the altar, by the then rector. It feems that Doctor White Kennet, at that time dean of Peterborough, had given fuch offence to the high-church rector, by his writings in defence of the Hanoverian fucceflion, that he caufed the dean to be painted among the apoftles in. the character of Judas, drafted in a black habit, between cloak and gown ; a fhort wig , and, to render it impofiible to miftake the object of the fatire, with a black velvet patch on his forehead, which the dean always wore from the time he received a dreadful accident on that part in his younger days. Beneath was written, Judas the Traytor. The dean, with true greatnefs of mind, defpifed the infolence : but the bifhop of Lon- don interfered, and caufed the picture to be removed by the very perfons who had let it up. P. 255. After " firft foundation," add In Seething-lane, or, as it was called antiently, Sydon-lane>, which runs into ^ower-ftreet, flood a large houfe built by Sir John Allen, lord mayor, and privy Travels of The. Htrbtrt, efq; London, 1634. counfellor ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. counfellor to Henry VIII. It was afterwards Sir Francis Walfmg- bam's, and after that became the property of Robert Devereuxj fecond earl of EJJex. P. 257. After the quoted verfes, add In the fouth-eaft angle of the inclofure were the royal apartments, for the Tower was a palace during near five hundred years, and only ceafed to be fo on the acceffion of queen Elizabeth. P. 263. After the account of Anna Bullen, add As I cannot difcover the place of interment of the venerable Margaret coun- tefs of Salt/bury, beheaded on the green within the Tower, en May 2yth, 1541, I muft fuppofe that it was within the chapel. There is no reafon to imagine that the tyrant would pay more refpect to her remains, than to thofe of his royal conforts. This illuftrious woman was daughter to George duke of Clarence, and laft of the royal line of Plantagenet. That feems to have been her only crime, except that of being mother to cardinal Pete, to whom Henry bore the mod inveterate hatred. She was attainted, by a fervile parlement, in i539> upon no other proof than that of a banner, with the five wounds of CHRIST embroidered on it, being found. This being the fymbol chofen by the northern rebels, was thought fufficient to eftablifh her guilt. The king, on a trifling infurreclion, in which it was impofiible fhe could have any concern, ordered her to be put to death. The execu- tioner directed her to lay her head on the block, which fhe re- fufed to do, telling him, that (he knew of no guilt, and would not fubmit to die like a traitor. He purfued her about the fcafrbld, aiming at her hoary head, and at length took it off, after mangling the jo ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. the poor victim, of feventy years of age, in the moft barbarous manner. P. 271. For u the earl of Hertford" read Edward lord Beau- cbamp, fbn of the earl of Hertford. P. 275. After the poem, add In the reign of Richard III. Sir William Gryffydd, of Penrhyn, chamberlain of North Wales, fuffered imprifonment in the Tower, at the fame time with lord Strange, for their fuppofed attachment to the interefts of the duke of Richmond, afterwards Henry VII. Sir William had alfo his poetical friend, in Howel ap Reinalt, who, in a Cywydd, celebrates the confinement of his patron. P. 277. To the account of Covftance y fitter to the duke of Exeter, add AJhmole fays, that fhe was reprefented, on the tomb, with the Garter round her left arm, a mark of diftinftion on only two other monuments : but time hath obliterated this badge of honor. P. 284. 1. penult. After " million," add Three ingenious writers have made the following eftimates : Mr. Howlet gives in his at 800,000 i Mr Wales at 650,000 j and Doftor Price at 500,000. P. 292. Ujl ofFiJh. For " molun" read Molva, either cod or ling. After " mtrlings" add i. c. merlangi. On " pickled herrings," note This fliews that the invention of ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. of pickling was before the time of William Benkelen, who died in 1397. See Brif. ZooL art. Herring. For " beft rumb," read A piece of rumb, I fulped Holibut, which is ufually fold in pieces. To the article " lampreys," add But we alfo imported lam- preys from Nantes : the firft which came in was not fold at le& than i s. Afd. a month after, at %d. To the article " pike," add By the very high price of the pike, it is very probable that this fiih had not yet been introduced into our ponds, but was imported at this period as a luxury, pickled, or fome way preferved. P. 302. Monument , add On the cap of the pedeftal, at the angles, are four dragons, the fupporters of the city arms : thele coft two hundred pounds, and were the work of Edward Pierce-, jun. P. 303. The injurious infcription on the Monument was written by Doctor Thomas Gale, afterwards dean of Tork. Ibid. Eight lives only were loft in the fire. P. 304. In place of the fentence beginning in line i, fubfli- tute The laft was in the year 1665, when in about fix months, by the fmalleft computation, made by the earl of Clarendon (who thought it much under- rated) a hundred and threefcore thoufand people fell by the deftroying angel : his lordlhip inftances a mif- take in one of the weekly bills, which was reported with only fix thoufand deaths : yet the amount of that week was fourteen thoufand. 32 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. thoufand *. Notwithftanding this, Doctor Hodges, in his book De Pefle, collects from the bills of mortality, that the fum of the dead, who fell by the peftilence, was not more than fixty-eight thoufand five hundred and ninety-fix. On the fubject of the Plague, add farther MARSEILLES GOOD BISHOP muft not engrofs every tongue. We had in our capital, during this fad calamity, heroes that might vie in piety with that worthy prelate. Sir JOHN LAURENCE, lord mayor in the year of the plague, fhewed equal intrepidity, humanity, and charity. Fear of the difeafe feemed to have Heeled the hearts of men ; for, as foon as its nature was certainly known, above forty thoufand fervants were turned into the ftreets to perifh: no one would receive them into their houfesj and the villagers near London drove them away with pitch- forks, and fire-arms f. Sir JOHN LAURENCE took thefe wretched fugitives under his protection, relieved them with his own fortune as long as that lafted, and then by fubfcriptions which he folicited from all parts. The king contributed a thoufand pounds a week : in the whole, the vaft fum of a hundred thoufand pounds was weekly diftributed . The heroifm of George Monk, duke of Albemarle, and William earl Craven, muft not pafs unnoticed ; their virtue forbad them to abfent themfelves in this dire feafon. They, in conjunction with the civil magiftrate, took every means to alleviate the cala- mity, and to prevent its progrefs : here their valour was put to * Continuation of the Life of Edward ^ztl of Clarendon, oftavo ed. vol. Hi. p. 620. f Journal of the Plague-year. J London i Remembrancer > 418. 3 the ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 33 the teft i and, amidft the horrors of death, which no wifdom could avert, they behaved with the fame coolnefs as when they were fupported by the glory of victory, amidfl the thunder of artillery, and flights of bullets. In archbifhop Sheldon was united the firm courage of the former characters, with the piety of a church- man. He continued at Lambeth during the whole contagion : preferring, by his charities, multitudes who were finking under the preflure of dileafe and want ; and, by his pathetic letters to his fuffragans, procured from their diocefes benevolences to a vaft .amount. P. 305. For 1268, read 1269; and for 500, read .800. dele " in which numbers were (lain." P. 306. 1. 2. After Poultney, add In 1410, Henry IV. granted this houfe to his fon Henry prince of Wales, by the title of quod- dam hofpitium five placeam (vocatum le Coldeberbergb) for the term of his life. And in the fame year (to (lock his cellars) gives him an order on the collector of the cuftoms for twenty cafks and one pipe of red wine of Gafcogny, and that without the payment of any duty. P. 316. To the account of Queen's Wharf t fubjoin When I vifited this .dock, I faw a melancholy proof of the injury trade may fuftain by the ruinous ftate of Blackfriars -bridge > the refult of the bad materials of which part of it has been unhappily com- j)ofed. A large ftone had fallen out of its place. A vaft barge deeply laden, I think, with corn and malt, ftruck on this funk P 34 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. rock, and foundered. It was weighed up> and brought into this place to difcharge its damaged cargo. A little to the north- weft of Hieen-hithe, on Old Fifi-Jireet-hill, ftood the inn or town refidence of the lords of Mont-hault, or Moldy in Flintjbire. The prefent church, named from them St. Mary Mounthaw, had been their chapel. In 1234, the bifhop of Hereford purchafed it, and it became his inn, and fo continued till 1553, when it was granted to Edward Clinton y earl of Lincoln. In this parifh was alfb the houfe of Robert Belknap, one of the judges who' was banifhed by the turbulent lords in the time of Richard II i when it became forfeited, and was granted to Wil- liam of Wickham, bifhop of Winchefter. P. 316. After the paragraph of Beaumont-Inn, add In this neighborhood, near 'frig-flairs, the abbot of Chertfey had his inn, or city manfion : it was afterwards called Sandy-houfe, becaufe it became the refidence of the lord Sandys. Near Broken Wharf, (between Trig-flairs and Queen-bithe) was an antient and large building of ftone, with arched gates, the refidence of Hugh de Bigot, earl of Norfolk, in the time of Hen- ry III. In 1316, it was poflefled by Thomas Brotherton, duke of Norfolk, and earl-marfhal ; and in 1432, by John Moubray, alfo duke of Norfolk. But in the reign of queen Elizabeth it was much more honored, by being the manfion of that opulent and charitable citizen Thomas Button, founder of the Charter-houfe hof- pital, and author of numberlefs other good deeds. P. 317. To the account of Painter-ftainers-^hall, fubjoin Numbers of paintings are preferved here : many of them proba- 4 bly ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. bly by the members of the fociety. The portraits of Charles II. and his queen, by Houfeman ; architecture of the Corinthian order, by Trevit ; the fire of London, by Waggoner * ; a landfcape, by Ag- gas j Heraclitus and Dcmocritus, by Penn ; fifh and fowl, by Robin- Jon ; birds, by Barlow ; fruit and flowers, by Everbrook ; a ruin, by Griffier -, and Monamy contributed a fine piece of (hipping. On the cieling is an allegorical painting, the work of Fuller. The filver cup and cover, given to this fociety by the great Cambden, who was Ion of a painter in the Old Bailey, is preferred here, and annually produced on St. Luke's day, the old matter drinking out of it to the new one, then elected. P. 322. 1. ult. For " gloomy namefake of the former," read Philip II. of Spain. P. 323. Add to the account of Baynard Cajtte. The family of the earls of Sbrewflrury refided in it till it was -burnt in the great fire. - P. 326. Portraits. Sir Edmund King, a favorite of Cbaj-les II. When that monarch was firft ftruck with the apoplexy, he had the courage to relieve his majefty by inftant bleeding ; putting the rigor of the law to defiance in cafe of failure of fuccefs. A thoufand pounds was ordered as a reward, but never paid f. He was among the philofophers of his time, who made the famous experiment of transfufing the blood of one animal into another. The blood of a healthy young fpaniel was conveyed into the * This is engraven for the fecond edition of this work. f Burners Hift. of his own Times, i. 606. F 2 veins 3$ ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. veins of an old mangy dog, who was perfectly cured in lefs than a fortnight *, The blood of a young dog was transfufed into one almoft blind -with age, and which, before, could hardly move : the latter did in two hours leap and frifk ^ and yet the young dog, which received in return the blood of the old or difteinpered, felt no fort of injury f. Would that the fame experiment could be extended to the human Ipecies ! and, fhould the change be ef- fected on mind as well as body, how unfpeakable would be the benefit to the whole race I Not only every loath fome diforder would be done away, but every folly, meannefs, and vice, changed to their oppofite virtues, by a due transfufion of worthy plebeian blood : and, what would make the experiment more beautiful, not the left inconvenience in body or mind would refult to the generous lender of the uncontaminated fluid. P. 327. After die mention of the library of the College of Phyficians, add I reflect with pleafure on my frequent vifits to Mr. George Edwards, the worthy librarian, and very able orni- thologift. His works are fo well known, and fo juftly efteemed, as to render any panegyric of mine fuperfluous. Notwithftanding we were both of a trade, we lived in the moft perfect harmony. I efteem his prefent to me, not long before his death, of feveraJ of his original drawings in Indian ink, a moft valuable part of my collection, as well as a proof of the friendfhip of a truly^ honeft man J. * Phil, Tranf. abr. Hi. 224.. f The fame. I He died Juy 235, 1773* aged 80. P. 327. ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 37 P. 327. Begin the account of Warwick-tanti thus War-wick- lane took its name from its having in it the inn or houfe of the Beaucbamps earls of Warwick. Cecily countefs of Warwick lived in it the 28th of Henry VI. It afterwards fell to Richard Neville, the famous king-making earl, whofe popularity and manner of living merits recital. P. 328. In place of the paragraph, line 4, fubftitute On the front of a houfe in the upper end of the lane is placed a fmall neat ftatue of Guy earl of Warwick, renowned in the days of king Atbel- jlan for killing the Danijh giant Colbrand y and performing num- bers of other exploits, the delight of my childifh days. This ftatue is ia miniature the fame with that in the chapel of St. Mary Magdalen, in Guy's-cliff, near Warwick. The arms on the Ihield are cheque or and azure, a cheveron ermine, which were his arms,, afterwards gold, by the Beauchamps earls of Warwick *. Ibid. After Henry VI. add And was called Pembroke's inn> near Ludgate. It next came to William Beauchamp lord Aber- gavemy, and was called Burgavanny-boufe. In the i pth of Hen- ry VI. it fell* in right of his wife, to Edmund Neville, lord Aber- gavenny j and in the time of queen Elizabeth we find it pofieffed by Henry lord Abergavenny* P. 330. 1. i. For " Beauvages" rezdBeaumes, or Belmis. John C. Brooke, efq; Somer/d* See alfo Dugdalii Warwitkjk. i. 274. P. 330. 33 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. P. 330. After St. Dun/tan, add In the laft was the tomb of that great earl. Ibid. The dance of Death was painted on the walls of a cloifter on the north fide of St. Paul'Sy called Pardon-church- baugb. P. 334. 1. 2. For " except Ethelred and Sebba, &c." read except thofe of Saxon race. P. 338. After " parvus," adline of the verfes, add magna. P. 346. Mr. fyfon's prefent, dele " done by bim/elf." P. 347. After the account of the fuppofed picture of Jane Shore, add For my part, I entertain doubts as to the authenticity of this portrait j but none, of that beautiful engraving given in Mr. Harding s Illuftrations of Shakejpear by Prints, N IV. The lady there reprefented is in the drefs of the fixteenth century : of the times of Henry VIII. and his fucceffbrs, to the end of the reign of Elizabeth. The famous pifture of Mary Stuart^ by Zuc- cbero, at Cbifwick-houfe y is exactly in this habit. Many more fimilar may be found among the Englifb ffortraits ; and among the French cotemporary to the periods I mention. P. 351. 1. i. After " lightning," add Or, as others fay, by the careleflhefs of a workman, who made a confeflion of it on his death-bed. P. 35 1- ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 39 P. 351. To the name of Sir Chrijltyher Wren, add Sur- veyor-general of his majefty's works. P. 353. After the dimenfions of St. Paul's, add I am forry to relate that our great architect, to whom our capital was Ib highly indebted, was, in 1718, difmified, at the age of ninety, from his employ (which he had for the fpace of fifty years moft honorably difcharged) in favor of Mr. Benfon, whofe demerits became foon fo apparent, as to occafion his almofl immediate removal. For the honor of our kingdom, it muft be told, that not lefs than . 126,604. 6s. $d. was collected, in various parts, between the year 1669 and 1685, firft towards the repair, and afterwards towards the rebuilding the fabric : the far greater part of which was contributed by the venerable and worthy clergy of that period. P. 357. 1. penult. After Edward III. fubftitute In the 5th of Edward IV. it was given to William lord Hajl'mgs, and was afterwards called Huntingdon-boufe, and became the lodging of Richard III. in his fecond year. Adjacent to it (on the weft) was Scropis-inn, in the 31 ft of Henry VI. P. 358. Additions to Knigbt-rider-Jtreet.To the eaft of Knight -rider-ftreet, on the fouth fide of Bafmg-lane, flood the manfion of Sir John Gijors, mayor of London, and conftable of the Tower in 1311. In the turbulent time of Edward II. he was charged with feveral harfh and unjuft proceedings, and, being 40 . ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. toeing fummoned to appear before the king's juftices, to anfwer to the accufation, he, and other principal citizens, fled, and put themfelves under the protection of the rebellious barons. His houfe was built upon arched vaults, and had arched gates made of ftone brought from Caen. In the lofty roofed hall, fays Stow, in his Survaie, p. 665, flood a large fir-pole, near forty feet high, which was feigned to have been the ftaff of Gerardus, a mighty giant : which proved to be no more than a May-fole, which, ac- cording to antient cuftom, ufed to be decked and placed annu- ally before the door. From this fable the houfe long bore the name of Gerard* s-hall, but it was properly changed to that of Gifors. It remained in the family till the year 1386, when it was alienated by Thomas Grfors. The houfe was divided into feveral parts, and in the time of Stow was a common hofterie, or inn. At prefent nothing remains but the vault, which ferves as cellars to the houfes built on the fite of the old manfion. In the fame ftreet was Ormond-place, belonging to the Botelers. in the fth of Edward IV. it was given to the queen i but in 151 5 it was reftor-ed to the Botekrs. P. 364. After the account of .the Coventry family, come the following: The family of RICH, earls of Warwick and Holland, arofe from Richard Rich, an opulent mercer, fheriff in the year 1441. His defcendant Richard was diftinguilhed by his know- ledge of the law : became folicitor-general, in the reign of Henry; and treacheroufly effected the ruin of Sir 'Tbotiias More: was created a baron of the realm in the reign of Edward VI. and be- came lord chancellor by the favor of the fame monarch. The HOLLIS'S, earls of Clare, and afterwards dukes of Newcajtle, iprung ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 41 fprung from Sir William Holies , mayor in 1540, fon to William Holies, citizen and baker : his great grandfon was the nrft who was called to the houfe of peers, in the reign of James I. by the title of lord Houghton, and foon after was advanced to the dignity of earl of Clare. The fourth of that title was created, by king William, duke of Newcaftle , but the title became extinct in his name in 1711. Sir THOMAS LEIGH, mayor in 1558, furnifhed the peerages with the addition of two. He was fon to Roger Leigh, of Wel- lington, Shr op/hire. Sir 'Thomas's grandfon, Francis, was created by Charles I. lord Dunjmore, and afterwards earl of Cbichefter- t and Sir Thomas's fecond fon, Sir Thomas Leigh, of S 'lonely, had the honor of being called to the houfe of peers by the fame monarch, by the tide of lord Leigh of Stonely. The PLEYDEL-BOUVIERIES, earls of Radnor, defcend from Edward des Bouverie, who died an opulent 7#r&ry-merchant in 1694. DUCIE, lord Dude de Morton, is defcended from Sir Robert Dude, baronet, fheriff in 1620, and mayor in 1631. He became banker to Charles I. and, on the breaking out of the civil war, loft 8 0,000 /. owing by his majefty. Yet is faid to have left behind him 400,000 /. So profitable, in all ages, are, to individuals, the calamities of war. PAUL BANNING, fheriff in 1593, had a fon of the fame name, who was firfl created a baronet, and in the third of Charles I. a baron of this realm, by the title of baron Banning; and foon after a vifcount, by the title of baron Banning of Sudbury. He was buried in the paternal tomb, in the church of St. Olave's. His houfe was in Mark-lane : after the fire of London, die bufmefs G f ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. of the cuftom-houfe being tranfacted in that which went under the name of lord Banning* *. The CRANFIELDS, earls of Middlcfex y rofe from Lionel Cranfield, a citizen of Lcndon, bred up in the cuftom-houfe j\ He became, in 1620, lord treafurer of England. The duke of Dorjet is de- fcended from Frances, fifter and heir to the third earl of Middlejex* married to Richard earl of Dorjet. The noble family of INGRAM, vifcount Irw'm y were raifed, in the reign of queen Elizabeth, by Hugh Irwin y citizen, merchant, and tallow-chandler, who died in 1612. He left a large fortune between two fons y of which Sir Arthur, the younger, fettled in Torkjhire y and purchafed a confiderable eftate, the foundation of the great fortune at prefent enjoyed by the family. P. 366. Bow-church. This had long been a noted fanftuary, and was one of thofe which Henry VIII. in his J2d year, ex- empted from fupprefiion. P. 367. 1. 3. After " hanged/' add Long after thofe days the hurdle or the fledge were permitted, as a fort of indulgence to the wretched fufferers. Black/tone's Comm. P. 369. For " Icorey" read Scorey. P. 372. In Bread-ftreet, which opens into Cheapfide, flood the manfion of Edward Stafford, laft earl of Wiltjbire, which, in 1499, he left to his coufin the duke of Buckingham. City Remembrancer, ii. 28. The name is often fpelt Bayning. f Kcnmt, ii. 727. p. 385. ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 43 P. 385. After the firft paragraph, add In this chapel the ce- lebrated, but unfteady, archbiihop of Spalato, preached his firft fermonj in 1617, in Italian, before the archbiihop of Canterbury , and a fplendid audience ; and continued his difcourfes in the fame place feveral times, after he had embraced our religion j but, hav- ing the folly to return to his antient faith, and truft himfelf among his old friends at Rome, he was fhut up in the caftle of St. Angela^ where he died in Ibid. Dele Several of the portraits in the great room of this hall are of Italian merchants. P. 386. In the account of Sir John Cutler, after ec good-look- ing man," fubftitute this : He was created a baronet November 1 2th, 1660. He died in 1693. His kinfman and executor Edmund Boulter ', efq; expended . 7,666 on his funeral expences *. He is Ipoken of as a benefactor, and that he rebuilt the great parlour, and over it the court-room, which were confumed in the fire of 1666. He ferved as mafter of the company in 1652 and 1653, in 1688, and again a fourth time. The anecdote of his bounty to the College of Phyficians, might have led one to fuppofe that the Grocers had not met with more liberal treat- ment. But by the honors of the ftatue, and the portrait, he feems to have gained here a degree of popularity. How far the character given of him by Mr. Pope may reft unimpeached, may remain a fubject of farther enquiry. * Strype's Sto-w, i. book i. p. 289. G 2 P. 387- 44 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS.. P. 387. After the mention of the Grocers^ add In this hall fate the famous committee of the parlement of 1641, which was to fettle the reform of the nation, and conduct the inflammatory bufmeflfes of the times. Lord Clarendon gives the motives of fixing on this place : fuch as pretended fears for the fafety of the friends of liberty; and the real and reafonable dread of the moderate men, who had been pointed out to the mob as enemies to their country as the De Witts were by the patriots of Holland^ and de Foulon and Berthier by thofe of France. The one gave fecurity to the popular leaders, and the other leflened the minority, by frightening from attendance numbers who might have been of ufe to the royal caufe. In >ueen-ftreet, on the fouth fide of Cheapftde, flood Ringed- hdl, the houfe of the earls of Carnival, given by them, in Ed- ward Ill's time, to the abbot of Beaulieu, near Oxford. Hen- ry VIII. gave it to Morgan Philip, alias Wolfe. Near it was. Jpres-inn, built by William of Ipres, in king Stephen's time, and continued in the fame family in 1377. P. 387. 1. penult, add Here that monarch kept his ex- change. About the year 1358 he. gave it to St. Stephen's chapel \ Weflminfter. P. 388. Addition to Buckle/bury. I have heard that Bucklef- bury was, in the reign of king William^ noted for the great refort of ladies of fafhion, to purchafe tea, fans, and other Indian goods* King William , in fome of his letters, appears to be angry with his queen for vifiting thefe Ihops -, which, it fhould feem, by the fol- lowing ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. lowing lines of Prior, were fometimes perverted to places of in- trigue: for, fpeaking of Hans Carvel's wife, fays die poet, She firft of all the town was told Where neweft Indian things were fold; So in a morning, without boddice, Slipt fomedmes out to Mrs. Tbody's, To cheapen tea, or buy a fkreen; What elfe cculd fo much virtue mean I In the time of queen Elizabeth, this ftreet was inhabited by chemifts, druggifts, and apothecaries. Mouffett, in his treatife on foods, calls on them to decide, whether fweet fmells correct pef- tilent air : and adds, that Bucklejbury being replete with phyfic, drugs, and fpicery, and being perfumed, in the time of the plague, with the pounding of fpices, melting of gum, and making per- fumes for others, elcaped that great plague whereof fuch multi- tudes died, that fcarce any houfe was left unvifited. P. 389. Subftitute the following account of the ftatue at Stocks-market. Fortunately his lordfhip difcovered one (made at Leghorn) of John Sobiejki, king of Poland, trampling on a Turk. The good knight caufed fome alterations to be made, and chrit- tened the Polijh monarch by the name of Charles, and beftowed on the turbaned Turk that of Oliver Cromwel , and thus, new named, it arofe on this fpot in honor of his convivial monarch. The ftatue was removed, in 1738, to make room for the Man- fion-houfe. It remained many years afterwards in an inn-yard : and in 1779 it was beftowed, by the common-council, on Robert, Vynei', efqj who removed it to grace his country feat* 6 P. 390, 46 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS, P, 390. Hollar has left fome fine views of the original ex- change. P. 391. In the Latin infcription, for " commercium," read commerciis. After the infcription, add During the firft century after its eredtion, the appearance of every people in the univerie on their different walks, in their different drefles, was a mod wonderful ipedbacle. At prefent it is loft by the dull and undiftinguilhing uniformity of habit. After Sir John Barnard, add Never did patriot appear within thefe walls in a lefs queftionable fhape. I am informed, that, after this honor was paid to him, he never more appeared on the Royal exchange. The ftatue of Charles II. was undertaken by Gibbons^ but done illiny of Antwerp. P. 394. The African-houje flood in this ftreet, eaft of Billeter- lane end. It had been the manfion of Sir Nicholas Throgmorton. P- 397- The earl of Oxford's houfe, in Lime-fir eet, was after- wards Sir Robert Wingfield's, who fold it to Sir Edward Coke. In this ftrect flood, in the reign of Edward I, a houfe called the King's Artiree, where now is Queen* s-jquare-pajfage. In the fame ftreet, alfo, was the houfe of the noble family of Soffits, ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 47 BaJJets, a large pile with ftrveral courts and gardens, which after- wards became the property of the abbot of Bury, and was called Bur/s Mark. P. 400. Begin the paragraph on the pictures in Mercbant- 'J'aylors-baU, thus Among the pictures in this hall, or its diffe- rent apartments, is one of Henry VII. prefenting the charter of incorporation to the company. This was painted and prefented by Mr. Nathanael Clarkfon, of IJlington, a member of the court of affiftants. The king is attended by William Warham. P. 401. After the account of Fox, bifhop of W r mchefter, add Another of Henry's courtiers is on his left hand ; H 7 illoughby lord Brooke, fteward of the houfehold, with his white wand : and in the fore-ground, the clerk exhibiting a roll of the lift of the royal freemen of the company. P. 402. After " great foundation," add This magnificent foundation of his, was intended for the reception of the fcholars brought up in Mercbant-taylors Jchool : there being forty-fix fel- lowfhips defigned for the eleves of that fchool, which was founded by that company, in 1561. It is a handfome plain building, in Suffolk-lane, 'Tbames-ftreet, endowed in the moft ample manner : about three hundred boys are inftructed there, of which one hun- dred are at the expence of the company j among them many who have rifen to the higheft dignities in the church. It was firft kept in a houfe belonging to the Stafford's, dukes of Buckingham, called the Manor of the Rofe. It was bought by this refpeftable 8 company j 48 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. company * : Richard Hill, then mafter of the company, contri- buted five hundred pounds. The houfe being deftroyed in the great fire, the prefent buildings were erected on its fite. This company, it is faid, have upwards of three thoufand pounds a year to difpofe of in charity, the bequeft of feveral pious members of this relpectable fraternity. 1?. 403. Addition to Sir John Hawkwood. He was born in the parifh of Hedingham Sibil, in EJJex, the fon of a tanner, and in due time was bound apprentice to a taylor in this city ; was prefled for a foldier, and by his fpirit rofe to the higheft commands in foreign parts. He firft ferved under Edward III. and received from that monarch the honor of knighthood. By the extraordinary proofs of valour he fhewed at the battle of Poiftiers, he gained the efleem of his heroic general the Black Prince. On the peace between Eng- land and France, he, with feveral other Englijh foldiers of fortune, affociated himfelf with thofe brave banditti, known by the name of les grandes compagnies, Tard-Venus, and Maletrdrins. After carrying terror through certain parts of France by their dreadful ravages, he perfuaded five thoufand horfemen, and about fifteen hundred foot, moftly Englijh, to follow him to afiift the marquis of Monferrat, againft Galeazzo, duke of Milan. After performing the moft fignal fervices for the marquis, he deferted him for the duke of Milan ; and was equally fuccefsful under his new mafter: and was rewarded by being married to Domitia, natural daughter to Barnabas, brother to the duke, with whom he received a great fortune. By her he had a fon named John, born in Italy ; who Strype's Memor. iii. 142. was ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. was. naturalized in 1406, in the reign of Henry IV*. Notwith- ftandjng this, he quitted the feryice of the M}lanefe\ and drew his fword in the .caufe of their enemies the Florentines. He Fought againft the Ptfans for the Florentines, and for the Pifans againift the Florentines: but victory attended, him. ojiwhichfoever fide. he took. For a time he enlifted under the pope Gregory XII. and recovered for his holinefs the revolted places in Provence. I find him alfo employed, in 1388, by Edward III. on the cruel fervice of extirpating the heretics in Provence, and Forqualquier f. \ have litde doubt but that his fword, devoted to every call, per- formed its part to the fatisfaction of his employer. His native place, Hedingham, thought itfelf fo honored by pro- ducing fo great a man, that, by the afiiftance of his friends and executors, it erejfted to his memory, in the parifh church, a mo- nument, which I believe ftill exifts j for Mr. Morant fpeaks of his effigies, and that -of two females lying by him; from which it may be fuppofed he was twice married. As he probably had no other arms than the needle and thimble, on the Florentine monument is given on his fhield, the device of Hawks Jfyixfc Jbrouvb a wood. o -.- s ... P. 405. After Tork, add 1772. . P. 410. For Cbarilibis, read Charity. Ibid. After " burials of the rich and great," add-^An inftance * Rymer's Facdera, 'viif. 457. f The fame, vii. 569. II 5 o ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. is given, in 1543, of their attending the funeral of Dame Mlbourn, widow of Sir John Milbourn, for which ten (hillings was beftowed on them by the will of the deceafed*. P. 410. T)de the fentence on the pleureur*. P. 416. Sir William Pickering. Strype fays that he was the fineft gentleman of the age, for his worth in learning, arts, and warfare. Annals y ii. 357. P. 417. After " another tomb," add To commemorate Sir John Crojbie, and his fpoufe. To the fame paragraph, add Sir John had been a great bene- faftor to the city. He left five hundred marks to repair this church : his arms were exprefied on the timber root ftone-work, and glafs. Towards the repair of London watt, he gave a hun- dred pounds j and another towards building a ftone tower on London bridge : to the wardens of Grocers hall, two large filver chafed half gilt pots, weighing thirteen pounds five ounces, troy weight, to be ufed in the common hall : and to all the prifons in a moft liberal manner t- P. 420. After the firft paragraph, add In digging a new fewer .Maitland's Hijl. London, ii. 781. Edward Ptnnant, efq; late of Bagilt, in Fltntjhire, was in March 1778 buried at Marfeilles, attended by along proceiTion of monks. He was buried by one of the poorer orders, who had the perquifite of furnifhing funerals like our undertakers. This funeral was rather grand, but remarkably cheap. f Hdinjhed, 702. StrypSt Strw, bookii. 105. $ in ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. in Lombard-Jireet, a few years ago, was difcovered the remains of a Roman ftreet, with numbers of coins, and feveral antique curio- fities, fome of great elegance. The beds through which the work- men funk were four. The firft confuted of factitious earth, about thirteen feet fix inches thick, all accumulated fmce the defertion of the antient ftreet : the fecond of brick, two feet thick, the ruins of the buildings : the third of alhes only, three inches : the fourth of Roman pavement, both common and teffulated, over which the coins and other antiquities were difcovered Beneath that was the original earth. This account was communicated to the Society of Antiquaries by Doctor Combe y Sir "John Henneker t and Mr. Jobu Jackfon of Clement's -lane. The predominant articles were earthen- ware : and feveral were ornamented in the moft elegant manner. A vafe of red earth has on its furface a repre- fentation of a fight of men ; fbme on horfeback, others on foot : or perhaps a (hew of gladiators, as they all fought in pairs, and many of them naked : the combatants were armed with falchions : and fmall round fhields, in the manner of the Tbracians, the moft efteemed of the gladiators. Others had fpears, and others a kind of mace. A beautiful running foliage encompafled the bottom of this veflel. On the fragment of another were feveral figures. Among them appears Pan, with his Pedum or crook ; and near to him one of the lafcivi Jatyri> both in beautiful flapping atti- tudes. On the fame piece are two tripods i round each is a ferpent regularly twifted, and bringing its head over a bowl which fills the top. Thefe feem (by the ferpent) to have been dedicated to Apollo *, who, as well as his fon ^Efculapius, pre- See funilar in Monfaucon, torn. L part ii. ub. lii. H 2 fided 52 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. fided over medicine. On the top of one of the tripods ftands a man in full armour. Might not this ve'flel have been votive, made by order of a foldier reftored to health by favor of the godj and to his active powers and enjoyment of rural pleafures, typified under the form of Pan and his nimble attendants ?' A plant extends along part of another compartment; : poflibry allufive to their medical virtues : and, to fhew that Bacchus 'was not for- gotten, beneath lies a Tbyrfos with a double head. All that ap- pears of the two bowls I deicribe, have elegahctesj- which make it evident that Rome did not want its WEDGWOOD. ' On another bowl was a free pattern of foliage. On others, or fragments, were objects of the chace, fuch as'hares, part of a deerj and a boar, with human figures, " dogs, and horfes : all thefe pieces prettily ornamented. There were, befides, fome "bea^sj made of earthen-ware, of the fame form as thofe called the- ovum angumumi and by the wAftl glain naidr j and numbers of coins i# gold; filver, and brafs, of Claudius, Nero, Galba, and other empe-* rors, down to Conftantine. The more curious parts of this interefi> ing difcovery ' are engraven in the Arch^ologia^ vof. viii. and merit the attentrbh of the curious, . P. 422. After " ill-fated race," add^-In Switfrin-$-laney runs between Lom&&J-Jireet'tt&*Camon*ftreet, ftood flie houf6 of the prior tf'*Tortington in Suffolk. It Was the houfe of the Veres earls of Oxford, in 1 598, and called Qxfbf&pku*. Adjacent to the garden flood what Stow calls two other faiir^ houfes. In one dwelt-Sir Richdrd -Empjbjt, oh th other Edmund Dudley ; the cruel inflmments of oppreflion under the royal mifer Henry VII. Each of them 'had a door into' the' 'garclen, where & they ANU ;CORRECTION9l they met -and had private conferences * ; probably to concert t|ie beft means of filling their matter's pockets by the rigorous en- forcement .of penal ftatutes, or the revival of obfolete laws: or by affifting in- any- mean "bargain whicrr Henry- chofe 'to make. < . /rn 3on-ae: ... ^ towards trrde&T&f the 'Ircnmongers-batl is ^ -girear oft^iieilt -ttx^his 1 ftrcet; ras it i honor to its arcKite^^ Itiwas of bufmefs and feftivity of that great and opulent Maitfakif tells us, -.they havre the' happy ^ ability :D/difpofing1bf> annually, eighteen- hundred pounds for charitable .ufes. . P. 423. For " Great Marlow y " 1. ult. r&& Boulter' s-!ock 9 above Maidenhead. P. 427. Addition to the fifh of the Thames. Several of the lefler fpecies of whales have been known to ftray up the Thames ; a kind of Grampus, with a high dorfal fin, has been taken within the mouth of the river. It proved the Spekbugger of Strom. Hift. Sondmoer, i. 309 ; the Delpbinus orca of Fabricius. Faun. Groenl. p. 46. Its length was twenty-four feet. Mr. J. Hunter has given a good figure in Phil. Tranf. vol. Ixxvii. tab. xvi. Another, which is engraven by the fame gentleman, in plate xvii. was of the length of eighteen feet, thick in proportion ta its length, and very deep bellied. I think it a new Ipecies. * Stvw's Survaif, 427. A Ipccies ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. A fpecies allied to the Delpbinus, Delphi*, or Dolphin, twenty- one feet long, was taken in 1783 above London Bridge. The nofe is protracted and (lender, like that of the Dolphin, but much fhorter. It differs from the Bottle-nofed Whale of Mr. Dale, in feveral particulars. The nofe does not turn up at the end j the body is (lender, the dorfal fin placed near the tail ; and, as Mr. Hunter obferves, has a very fpecific mark, two very fmall pointed teeth in the fore part of the upper jaw. This is engraven in plate xx. of the fame volume of the Tranfactions j and has furnifhed a fecond new fpecies difcovered by our great anatomifl. < The common porpefies frequently run up the Thames in numbers, and afford an eager diverfion to the watermen. Spetdily will If pullijhed, THE INDIAN ZOOLOGY, BY THOMAS PENNANT. EDITION THE SECOND* With large Additions. EDITION THE SECOND, With the feveral Articles of the Supplement inferted in their proper Places ; And the Maps corre&ed by the late Difcoveries. N. B. The Purchafers of the Firft Edition may be fupplied with the Maps and Supplement, by ROBERT FAULDZR, in Jlrett> or T. and J. ECIRTON, Cloaring-Crofs* 4 YDOJOOS "HAIOM! 3F ( Yfi .T VL AVI VL 3 Tl AiY/ s a>io.. ITZCI /OOJOOS OITD; ' i * 5 V - - ! . ..: UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. FEB 071986 Form L9-50m-9,'60(B3610&4) 444 3A ?38o