\)\-^ •^/iflJAIPIII JV\v •'awiivjjy • '' o '%3AINa]WV ^OFCAUFO/?^ ^OFCAUFO% ^^Abvaan-i^ ^^Aavaan-^^ ^^WEUNIVER% ^J?UDNVSm^ ^lOSANCEl^ O H 6 "^/yaaAiNfl-aw' ^lUBRARYQr !, JO "^ ^^ ^lOSANCElfj> o J)! S ^OFCAIIFO% ^OFCAIIFO/?^ 4? .^\^E•^)NIVER5•/A ^lOSANCflfj Turkish and Kgyptian Cigarettes, Celebrated Pellegrini Cigarette. Celebrated Vanity Fair Cigarettes. Manufacturers of the Aromatic Cigar- ettes of specially prepared Kice Paper be.-iring their Trade Mark. SFECIA-Ij ITOTICE to Cia--A.I?,ETTE SI«/IOKERS- TURKISH AND EGYPTIAN CIGARETTES. (By Appointment to H.R.R. the Prince of Wales, and E.I.H. the Czar of Russia.) SUITABLE FOR ALL CLIMATES MAncoviTCH & Co. supply Clubs and Messes at reduced prices. MARCOVITCH «fe CO., 11, Air Street, Regent Street, "W. THREE GOLD MEDALS for CLOCKS and WATCHES. BY APPOINTMENT 'TO HER MAJESTY. CHARLES FRODSHAM & CO/S Special Manufacture of GOLD KEYLESS, COMPENSATION, LEVER WATCHES. Only Place of Business, 84, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. JUST rUBLISHIGi:). SOUTH AFRICA. Size, 34^ by 19| inches ; Price, 4s. 6d., Full Coloured and Mounted ou Cloth and in Case, with complete Index; or 3s. in Sheet, with Index. Tins jMap, on a scale of GO miles to an inch, embraces the whole of South Africa, up to the 20th parallel of south latitude, Including Lake Ngami; and comprises, besides the British Possessions of the Cape Colony and its dependencies, and Natal, the Republics of the Transvaal and the Orange River, with Zulu Laud, Great Namaqiia, Daniara, and BecUuana Lands, and part of the Matabcle Kingdom. It has been compiled with great care from the most reliable material, and embodies all the most recent information. A special feature of tliis ]Map is the introduction of both the Electoral and tlie Fiscal Divisions of the Cape Colony in such a manner that they may be readily distinguished. The Coast-line and Rivers, and names pertaining to ibe water, are printed in a distinct blue colour, and the Physical Features of the country are clearly indicated. All the Railways in operation, and the Main Roads, are also clearly shown. ¥. & A. K. JOHNSTON (Geographers to the Queen), EASTEE EOAD, EDINBUEGH. LONDON : A. JOHNSTON, 6, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, E.C. BLACKHEATH AND GREENWICH LADIES' COLLEGE, DAS.TMOUTH HOUSE, BLACKHEATH, S.E. Principal, MISS BURTON. The School Year Is divided into Three Terms. Special arrangements can be made for Pupils Crom India and from the Colonies remaining during the Vacations. The Course of Instruction prepares all the Pupils for the University Local Examinations ; the decision, whether they shall be presented for Examination, resting with the parents themselves. Tlie testimony of the Cambridge " Class Lists" offers the best evidence of the thoroughness of the Instmction given in the College, several of the Pupils each year having attained distinction in the subjects for which they have offered themselves for examination. Dartmouth House Is situated on the west side of Blackheath, at about an equal distance from the Greenwich, Blackheath Hill, and Lewlsham Junction Railway Stations. The Mansion is surrounded by 2^ acres of pleasure ground, which is reserved almost entirely for the recreation of the Pupils. The Grounds are quite secluded, and they open directly on to the Heath, FuU particulars as to School Fees, with the names of the Professors attending the College, will be forwarded on application to Miss BCRTON. CLAY CROSS COMPANY'S COALS. EQUAL TO BEST WALLSEND. .AJSn^TJ-AJu S.A.X.ES EXiOEEIDIITa- 500,000 T01^TS, FOR PRICES SEE DAILY PAPERS. Chief Offices: 12, BURWOOD PLACE, EDGWARE ROAD, W. KTOTICE- All applications respecting Advertising space in the * Pro- ceedings of the Royal Geographical Society and Monthly Record of Geography,' should be made to William Clowes and Sons, Limited, S7, Fleet Street, E.C. " By a tliorougli knowledge of the natural laws which govern the operations of digestion \ and nutrition, and by a careful application of the fine properties of well-selected Cocoa, j Mr. Epps has provided our breakfast tables with a delicately flavoured beverage which may [ save us many heavy doctors' bills. It is by the judicious use of such articles of diet that EPPS'S (JAMES EPPS & Co., HoMCEOPATHic Chemists.) cous/^FOi^Tinsra- a constitution may be gradually built up until strong enough to resist every tendency to < disease. Hundreds of subtle maladies are floating around us ready to attack wherever there is a weak point. We may escape many a fatal shaft by keeping ourselves well fortified with] pure blood and a properly nourished frame." — Civil Service Gazette. i Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S ^ Original & Only Genuine. CHLORODYNE ll COUGHS, A. "ORONCHITIS. D IS THE GREAT SPECIFIC FOR | /CHOLERA, DYSENTERY, \J T\IARRHCEA. The GENERATi BOARD of HEALTH,! London, REPORT tbat ft ACrS as a CHARM, one dose generally sufficient. DYNE. Dr. Browne is the SOLE IN. VENTOR, and, as the composition of Chlorodyne cannot possibly be disco- vered by Analysis (organic substances defying elimination), and since the for- mula has never been published, It is evi- dent tbat any statement to the elTi-ct that a compound is identical with Dr. Browne's Chlorodyne must be false. This Caution is necessary, as many persons deceive purchasers by false re presentations. _ T\R.~ J. COIililS BROWNE'S! XJ CHLORODYNE. — Vice Chancellor Sir AV. PAGE WOOD stated publicly in Court that Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE was UNDOUBTKDLY the INVENTOR of CHLORODYNE, that the whole story of the defendant Freeman was delibe- rately untrue, and he regretted to say it had been sworn to. — See The Times, July 13th, 1864, T^R.^J- COLiLIS BROWNE'S J_} CHLORODYNE is a liquid medi oine v.Uich assuagos PAIN of EVERY KIND, affords a calm, refreshing sleep; WITHOUT HKADACHE, and IN- VIGORATES the nervous system when exhausted. We have never used any other forni of this medicine than Collls Browne's,, from a firm conviction that it is deci- dedly the best, and also from a sense ol: duty we owe to the profession and thc^ public, as we are of opinion that th substitution of any other than CoUiti 15iowne's is a deliberate breach of faith on the part of the chemist to pre.^crilier' and patient alike. — We are. Sir, faithfully yours, SY'MKS & CO., Members of tin: Fjw)iSymes& Co., Pharmaceutical Chemists,! J'harm. Society of Great I'ritain, IIu Simla. Jan. 5, 1830. ] Kxcellency the i'icejoi/'s (,'liemisCs. To J. T. Davenport, 33, Great Kussell ipw b,_ " j, COLLIS BROWNE'S; Street, Bloomsbury, Ix)ndon. \}J CHLORODYNE is the TRUE Dear Sin, — We congratulate you upon, PALLIATIVE in the widespread reputation this justly-: -yjEURALQ-IA, GOUT, CAN- esteemed medicine has earned lor it- _[_^ CER 'POOTHACHE, R, J. COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORODYNE. — Dr. J. C. ^^'9.^^^,?5,,Q^*^ ^™y^^«'l*fl Staff )'p^'J{^B0N^A^7M''edic^^^ DISCOVERED a REMEDY to denote ^^^^^^. \.^ \^^^^ CO.Ml'LETELY which he coined the word CHLORO- cURED MB of DIARRHCEA." self, not only in Hindostan, but all over the liast. As a remedy of general 1 RHEUMATISjyr. utility we much question whether a D^CHLORODY:N¥r!pid?y^c?Srf 1! better Is imported nUo the country, and -■-'jijj^j^^j., ^j. *^ •' The other brands, we are happy to say, ^-^ P HYSTERIA are now relegated to the native bazaars,' ^ — — — — 'Sr ■*■ ■*^rrA:^'_ , and, judging from their sale, we fancy T MPORT ANT CAUTION. their sojourn there will be but evanes cent. We could multiply instances oA' iiifinitum of the extraordinary efficacy' of" DR, COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORODYNE In Diarrhoea and Dysentery, Spasms, Cramps, Neuralgia, the Vomiting of Pregnancy, and as a general sedative, that have occurred JL The IMJIENSE SALE of this REMEDY has given rise to many UNSCRUPULOUS IMIl'ATIONS. N.B— EVERY BOTTLli OF GENU- INE CHLORODYNE BKARS on thf GOVERN.MENr STAMP the NAMK; of the INVENTOR, DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE. SOLD IN BOTTLES, Is. \k^VEI^TISE3S.fl:ElSrTS- Gary's Celebrated Edge-Bar Sextant. GARY'S TRAVELLING SETS OF SURVEYING INSTRUMENTS, Conslstiug of Barometers, Compasses, Sextant8,Artificial Horizons, Binocular Glasses, &c., &c., specially made for the Royal Geographical Society, By H. POItTEIt, APPRENTICE AND SUCCESSOR TO THE LATE W. GARY, optician by Special Appointment to the Admiralty, War Office, India Olflce, Trinity House, Swedish, Norwegian, and other Foreign Governments. ONLY MAKER Of Capt. George's Patent 181. 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Nares's Chronometers for their Arctic Expeditions; also of Dr. Liaingstone's Land Surveying Chronometer, selected by Government after competition; also of the only Chronometers found available in Capt. Parry's first voyage to the Polar Seas in 1S19. F PROCEEDINGS ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY AND MONTHLY KECORD OF GEOGRAPHY. (-.5 TJie Basins of the Amaru-mayu and the Beni. ^ By Clements E. Markham, c.b., Secretary p.g.s. (Kead at the Evening Meeting, April 9tlj, 1883.) Map {Inset Map), p. 376. The receipt of Dr. Heath's diary and valuable maps has brought to our knowledge the achievement of an important feat in South American geography, namely, the discovery of the whole course of the great river Beni. The work of this intrepid explorer will now be brought fully to the notice of the meeting, but its relative significance can only be properly appreciated by considering the physical aspects and the history of discovery over the whole Beni system. From every point of view it is a subject of great interest to the geographer ; and moreover it includes the story of other noble exploring adventures hitherto unrecorded by this Society, which deserve a place side by side with the admirable work of Dr. Heath. The fountains of the Beni system of rivers which supply a large third of the volume of the Madeira, one of the chief tributaries of the Amazons, flow from the great snowy chain of the Eastern Andes for a length of upwards of 500 miles. They converge into two main streams called the Amaru-mayii or Mayu-tata, and the Beni, which, uniting with each other, and then with the Mamore, combine, with the Itenez, to form the great Madeira river. The snowy range of the Eastern Andes is an unbroken mass, with a high plateau to the westward and the vast plains of the Amazonian basin to the east. It sends up peaks, such as Illimani and lUampu, to a height exceeding 21,000 feet, and it is remarkable that these towering masses are not bosses of granite, but are of Silurian formation and fossiliferous to their summits. The whole range is highly auriferous, containing frequent veins of gold bearing quartz usually associated with iron pyrites; and the thickness of the strata is not less than 10,000 feet. The main chain is nowhere disturbed by volcanic eruptions, No. VI.— June 1883.] y 314 THE BASINS OF THE AMARU-MAYU AND THE BENI. except at tlie very edge of tlie formation near Lake Titicaca ; and in these respects it differs essentially from tlie maritime cordillera of the ^TAndes. The characteristics of the Eastern Andes have an influence ' over the plains which are traversed by rivers flowing from them. The ^limit of perpetnal snow is at 15,800 feet, below which there are steep grassy slopes and precipitous declivities, and thence numerous spurs extend for varying distances into the plain, inclosing profound ravines. It is here that the majestic beauty of the scenery of the Andes is fully realised. Masses of dark mountains rise for thousands of feet, with their bases washed by foaming torrents and their summits terminating '' in sharp peaks or serrated ridges. The lower slopes are covered with dense vegetation, the green tints often varied by masses of gorgeous flowers; and, above the forest, the grassy slopes are brightened by the r yellow of calceolarias and the rich purple of a melastoma. As the ravines are descended the forest becomes more dense, the open glades disappear, ' and the delicate pink and white of the chinchona blossoms, set in glossy ^, verdure, begin to dot the hill-sides. Everywhere there is flowing'water, the condensed moisture of the trade winds hurrying back to the Atlantic. Here is seen a white sheet of continuous foam rushing down the polished side of a precipice and seeming to plunge into a bed of ferns and flowers, there a blue sheet of water appearing to issue from the fleecy clouds that shroud the mountain peaks; everywhere the roar of falling water. As the ravines subside, more extended views are obtained, and at length the vast illimitable plain is seen stretching away in one unbroken forest, the green tints changing to faint blue on the far off horizon. This has ever been a land of mystery, a land to interest and excite the imagination of generations of explorers. As would naturally be expected, the streams flowing from the auriferous Andes are full of gold. In the ravine of Tipuani the blue clay slates, associated with gold, extend to the river Beni. The gold of Caravaya has been famous for centuries, and in Marcapata is the golden hill of Camanti. But the products of the ravines and of the vast plain beyond are not confined to the precious metal. Gold is far from being the most valuable branch of their varied sources of wealth. This is the region of the chinchona bark richest in quinine, of the finest coffee and cacao in the world, of many kinds of rare and valuable cabinet woods, and of inexhaustible supplies of indiarubber. /-'^ The two great rivers to which all the thousand streams, pouring <^ down the eastern slopes of the Andes, converge, are the Beni and the / Amaru-mayu, which unite after courses of 500 miles each. One may be said to come from the vicinity of La Paz, the other from the confines of Cuzco, one the outlet for the commercial capital of Bolivia, the other for the ancient capital of Peru. The Beni receives all the streams from near Cochabamba to the frontier of Peru, including those of the famous Yungas of La Paz, and of Ayopaya, Caupolican, Larecaja, Apolobamba, THE BASINS OF THE AMARU-MAYU AND THE BENI. 315 and Mimecas. On the Peruvian frontier is the ravine of Tambopata, so rich in chinchona bark, whose river becomes the Madidi, the largest of the Beni tributaries. / The Amaru-mayu has, however, been ascertained by Dr. Heath to be the principal river as regards volume ; and this is explained by the physical conformation of the region. The rivers which form the Beni flow direct from the Andes, down ravines, to their parent stream. But in the case of the Amaru-mayu system there is, throughout the provinces of Caravaya and Paucartambo, and beyond the spurs of the Andes, an isolated line of hills running parallel with the main chain. These hills , are described as precipitous and gold-bearing, so that they are probably \ of the same formation as the AndesT' but the hills have only once been visited by a scientific traveller. Dr. Don Antonio Eaimondi (our Hono- rary Corresponding Member), in 1864, and his narrative is not yet published. The whole of the rivers of Caravaya are diverted by this isolated range, and form one great stream called the Ynambari, receiving- tributaries from both sides, and flowing for a great distance parallel to the Andes, until it forms a junction with the Amaru-mayu coming from the valleys of the Cuzco montana. In consequence of this lateral diver- sion of the Caravayan rivers, along a distance of nearly 200 miles, a very great volume of water is conveyed to the Amaru-mayu, which swells its dimensions into a noble stream, and gives it a right to claim the Beni as a tributary. Thus we have to contemplate a portion of the snowy range of the Eastern Andes, the courses of the two great rivers which drain it, with their numerous important tributaries, and the vast unexplored plain stretching away from the bases of the mountains. There has been a halo of romance resting over this great eastward- stretching plain, like the blue haze on the distant horizon, where the apparently illimitable forests seem to mingle with the sky. The great civilised empire of the Yncas was established on the lofty plateaux to which the Eastern Andes form a bulwark rising out of the forests, and the Yncas were attracted to those rich and unknown regions by the desire to improve the condition of their people as well as by enlightened curiosity. The Yncas formed colonies in all the ravines to the eastward, in accordance with their policy of exchanging products. Each colony came from a particular district on the lofty plateau, and kept up regular communication with the mother village, receiving quinua, preserved potatoes, dried meat, and clothing, and sending in return cabinet woods, medicinal drugs, fruits, coca, and gold. It was a more formidable undertaking to penetrate far into the forests to the eastward. Here there were perils without end, dangers from wild animals, from savage people, from swollen rivers, and from starvation. But the almost perfect system of land transport and com- missariat which formed part of the Ynca system of government, enabled Y 2 316 THE BASINS OF THE AMARU-MAYU AND THE BENI. tliat highly civilised people to overcome them all. In the fifteenth century the Ynca Yupanqui determined to send an expedition to explore the whole region of the Amaru-mayu, or " serpent-river," and learn the secrets of the unknown land beyond the horizon. During two years he caused timber to be cut and dressed, and canoes to be made, while dried provisions were collected. The stores were carried in the centre of each canoe on high platforms, so that they might not get wet. After the expedition started the first work was to overcome the fierce tribes of Chuncho savages who inhabit the forests within 20 miles of the base of the Andes, They were so completely subdued, not so much by force of arms as by wise conciliatory measures, that they gave in their allegiance, adopted agricultural habits, lived in large barrack-like houses 100 feet long, 40 wide, walls six feet high, and good pointed thatched roofs, in accordance with the Ynca system (and continue to do so to this day), and regularly paid tribute in kind until, by the execution of Tupac Amaru, the Ynca rule was unwisely destroyed by the Spanish Viceroy Toledo in 1571. The Ynca expedition then continued the descent of the great Amaru- mayu river, and completed the discovery. There were serious losses by the way, but about a thousand men reached the country of the Moxos and formed a colony, sending news of their success to Cuzco. The main facts of this expedition are certainly historical. The civilising influence of the Yncas thus spread over the vast plain, and Colonel Church mentions the existence of an ancient Ynca road on the banks of the river Beni. After the Spanish conquests it was believed that many thousands of the Yncas fled into the forests. Expeditions went in search of them, and there was a tradition of the existence of a fabled Empire of Paytiti beyond the eastern horizon. There was a certain basis of truth in those stories. But the stern facts during Spanish times were that the savage Chuncho Indians encroached more and more on the few coca and cacao farms near the base of the Andes, that the missionaries alone succeeded in penetrating to any distance, and that the bark-collectors and gold- seekers scarcely ever went beyond the outer spurs of the mountains. It was not the policy of the colonial government of Spain to seek new routes for commerce. As soon as the independence of Peru and Bolivia was established, the people began to desire very earnestly that a highway should be opened for them to the Atlantic. They saw that their prosperity and advancement mainly depended on that great measure, and that there could be no real progress for them until it was secured. Their own efibrts have not been wanting. Especially have the people oi Cuzco worked zealously to explore their forests, and examine the course of the - Amaru-mayu river. £ In 1835 our gallant countryman. General Miller, conceived the idea THE BASINS OF THE AMARU-MAYU AND THE BENI. 317 [ of planting a military colony on the banks of some navigable river on the eastern slopes of the Andes, to facilitate the discovery of the vast plains towards the Madeira, and to endeavour to open a direct com- niunication with Europe by the Amazons. He was Prefect of Cuzco at the time, and he made a journey into the forests of Paucartambo, an account of which was published in our ' Transactions '* but he was un- able to give permanent eifect to his well-conceived plans. He treated the Chunchos kindly, and they continued to be friendly during his sojourn in their neighbourhood, although they were opposed to his further advance. But after 1840, they began to make persistent attacks on the few estates near the base of the Andes, destroying several, and spreading consternation over the whole district. The Peruvian Government then commissioned Colonel Espinar, of Cuzco, to visit the remaining farms and report on the state of affairs. He left the town of Paucartambo in 1846, crossed the Eastern Andes by the pass of Tres Cruces, and visited the farms of San Miguel and Cosnipata. The results of his researches are embodied in a Eeport, published at Cuzco in 1846,1 in which Colonel Espinar gives a charming description of the scenery of the forests, supplies information respecting the hydrography, and furnishes some account of the three savage tribes of Chunchos, called Huachipayvis, Treyuneris, and Sirineyris. .^ The next pioneer of discovery in the direction of the Amaru-mayu / was the Italian friar. Father Bovo de Kevello. He was a man of large " proportions, tall and broad-shouldered, with massive forehead, bald head, and long beard. Brave as a lion, foremost to lead in all dangers, he was at the same time gentle and tender-hearted. He had passed several years in the Holy Land, and some time in the missions of Southern Chile. He was well versed in the history of discovery in all parts of j the world, was a naturalist, and a good geographer. In 1847 his fervent imagination was fired with the idea of opening a direct route to Europe for the ancient city of Cuzco, the capital of the Yncas. With boundless enthusiasm, ballasted by great learning and scientific knowledge, he plunged into the forests of Paucartambo. He was a true apostle of progress. While he worked for religion, he was also a friend of geo- graphical science. Solitude had for him no terrors, for he found unceasing pleasure in the contemplation of nature, and of man in his wild state. Returning to the old Ynca capital, after a year of close study of his problem in the forests and on the swollen river banks, he published his 'Brilliante Porvenir del Cuzco ' in 1848, a work remark- able as well for its research and learning, as for its enlightened and practical views. He dedicated it to the good General Medina, then * R. G. S. Jonrn., vi. p. 174. \ 'Primera Memoria sobres los valles de Paucartambo y adyacentes, por J. D. Espinar.' Cuzco, 1846. 318 THE BASINS OF THE AMAEU-MAYU AND THE BENI. Prefect of Cuzco, and concluded witb. an ardent appeal to the inhabitants of the Ynca capital. " People of Cuzco," he exclaimed, " to you belongs the initiative for navigating the rivers to the east of your Andes. It is for you, and for your best interests, to turn your backs on the Pacific, and to open up the vast and fertile Amazonian plains." He then returned to the forests, and when Lieutenant Gibbon, of the U.S. Navy, entered them in 1851, he was accompanied by the enthu- siastic Italian missionarj^ to his furthest point, at the junction of the rivers Tono and Pini-piiii, where the Amaru-mayu may be said to commence. The appeal of Bovo de Kevello to the manhood of the people of Cuzco was not made in vain. He inspired many of them with his own enthu- siasm. They formed a " Sociedad Industrial de los Valles de Paucartambo," of which my friend General De la Guarda, then Prefect of Cuzco, became president. Under the lead of a talented young artist, named Manuel Ugalde, thirty-six youths of Cuzco, of the best families, entered the forests, with the intention of attempting the descent of the Amaru-mayu. In 1852 they reached the banks of the Tono, and were joined by Father Bovo de Eevello. Ugalde had conceived the idea of utilising the indiarubber of the surrounding forests in the construction of a raft. Search was made for the trees, sevei'al depots were formed, paths were cut through the forests, and eventually a number of indiarubber or waterproof cylin- ders were prepared, which were secured to the poles forming the raft. Pather Bovo de Eevello instilled his own enthusiasm into the youth of Cuzco, while Ugalde directed their efforts. Two rafts were thus con- structed, and launched at the junction of the Pini-piiii and Tono. But all these high hopes ended in disappointment. It would seem that they ought to have committed their fortunes to the river below and not above the rapid. In the midst of the impetuous current the raf ^. acountered the rush of a flooded affluent. They were driven on rocks and capsized. Ugalde had taken the precaution to provide life-belts made from the indiarubber he had prepared. His people were all saved ; but the expedition, begun with so much promise, and carried through with such forethought and perseverance, was wrecked. In May 1853, a year after this catastrophe, I penetrated into the forests of Paucartambo.* I found that the Chunchos had since made successful attacks on the few coca and cacao estates, and that only two remained, called San Miguel and Cosuipata. Here I met with Father Bovo de Eevello, almost alone. His only food was parched maize, chunus, and bananas. I went with him to the point where Ugalde com- menced his navigation. But he was then destitute of all resources, and enthusiasm alone could not take us further. He was a man of com manding presence. I remember looking uj^on him as a forlorn hope, holding an outpost against desperate odds. He seemed to feel that while * See R. G. S. Journ., xxv. p. 151. THE BASINS OF THE AMARU-MAYU AND THE BENI. 819 he held his ground, like a beacon on a "watch-tower, the youths of Cuzco would continue to organise fresh attempts. He was the rallying point. Such a man would not abandon his post while life endured. He died there — a noble martyr to the cause of geographical discovery. Father Bovo de Eevello did not work in vain. He instilled a love of adventure and an ardent desire to achieve success into the people of Cuzco which survived him. / In 1860 Don Faustino Maldonado and seven companions organised a fresh expedition. With scanty means, but full of enthusiasm, they were resolved to encounter and overcome whatsoever dangers and privations might stand in the way rather than fail in their enterprise. The names oi these gallant explorers deserve to be held in memory. They were : — Faustino Maldonado, Estevan Trigoso, Andres Guerra, Eaimondo Estella, Gregorio Maldonado, Manuel Chapalba, Manuel Santa Kosa, Simon Eodriguez. They left Cuzco on the 26th of December, 1860, descended into the forests, and advanced along the banks of the river Tono, until they reached the junction with the Pini-piiii. Here they constructed a raft during January 1861, but by the time they had finished it their scanty stock of provisions was exhausted, as well as their ammunition. Most men would have returned. But tbey resolved to push onwards, trusting to supplies of bananas and yucas from the Indians, or to wild fruit. If these failed they could but die for their country. At all events they would not turn back. This is the stuff that the young men of Cuzco are made of. There are few nobler deeds of heroism recorded in the annals of geographical discovery than the persistency of Maldonado and his comrades in risking all in order that work so important to their fatherland might be done. In February they embarked, and succeeded in navigating their frail raft over the rapids. Next day they were attacked by savages in canoes, who hunted them for many hours. As the days went on they became weak from hunger. Their only food was the bananas occasionally found in clearings along the river banks. fNeax the mouth of the great river Ynambari they were attacked again, <. and Andres Guerra was wounded with an arrow. But this was the last hostile act, and soon afterwards they came to a friendly tribe who sold them a canoe. At length they reached the confluence of the Amaru- mayu and Beni, and soon afterwards they approached the rapids near 1 /the mouth of the Beni. They had explored the whole course of the \ Amaru-mayu for the first time since it was descended by the troops of the Ynca Yupanqui in the fifteenth century. It would appear to be a noble stream, and clear of all obstructions from the point of embarkation to the rapids of the Beni. Maldonado and Lis companions abandoned their raft above the rapids, walked round them, and constructed another below. But they were now very weak and faint from want of food. They proceeded, six of them on the new raft, and two in a small canoe, and on entering the Madeira they met Avith some friendly Caripuna 320 ' THE BASINS OF THE AMARU- 5IAYU AND THE BENI. Indians, obtaining a little food. Continuing tlieir voyage for severail daj'S, the raft got into a dangerous rapid on the 18th of March, was dashed against rocks and broken up. Four out of the six explorers were unfor- tunately drowned, namely, Maldonado himself, Gregorio Maldonada, Trigoso, and Guerra. Two reached the shore, and. the two in the canoe were safe. But the four survivors were nearly naked, weak from fasting, and without food. At length they reached the station of a friendly Brazilian who supplied all their wants. They were sent down to the Brazilian town of Barra, on the Amazons, and returned home by way of Tarapoto in the following May. They had solved one of the two great geographical problems connected with the region to the east of Cuzco. These brave youths of the old Ynca city had explored the whole course of the Amaru-mayu. In 1865 our Corresponding Member, the accomplished and inde- fatigable Don Antonio Raimondi, turned his attention to the Paucar- tambo forests. Like General Miller and Colonel Espinar, Eaimondi describes with enthusiasm the magnificent scene which burst on his view from the pass of Tres Cruces. He went to the estate of CosSipata, but found the labourers in a constant state of alarm at the approach of the savage Chunchos, while all the other estates had been abandoned and destroyed. He returned after making numerous valuable observa- tions. /^ The next expedition into the Paucartambo forests was undertaken / by Juan G. Nystrom in 1868. He reached the confluence of the Pini- / piiii and Tono, reported that the united stream became navigable at the / junction of the Marcapata, and fixed several positions by astronomical observations. The spirit breathed into the people of Cuzco by the enthusiasm of Bovo de Eevello, still continued to animate them. In 1873 an expedition was organised consisting of fifty soldiers and pioneers, and commanded by the Prefect of Cuzco^himself, Colonel Don Baltazar La Torre. Senor Germain Giihring accompanied the party, to conduct the scientific work. f Proceeding by way of Paucartambo and Tres Cruces, the explorers \ reached Cosiiipata on May 25th, and pushed on through the forests, to Kthe junction of the Pini-piiii and Tono. A few miles further on the •<^ united stream forces its way through a chain of hills at a place called Ccoiiec, and forms a dangerous rapid. Here Colonel La Torre began the construction of a raft, but there were deluges of rain, and the river rose so that the workmen found themselves on an islet surrounded \>j the angry flood, and overshadowed by the dense forest. Owing to failure of provisions a number of men were sent back to Cosiiipata, and the party was reduced to twenty. At length the raft was finished, and on July 6th it was resolved to move the camp lower do"\vn the river. Gohring and four men were to go by land, while the Prefect, his secretary, Don Baldomero Cano, Captain Jose Maria Chavez, Ensign THE BASINS OF THE AMARU-MAYU AND THE BENI. 321 Yicente Caloma, and some soldiers embarked on the raft for a trial trip. No sooner was tlie raft allowed to get into the stream, than it was whirled impetuously along by the current and brought up against an island. All hands, except Colonel La Torre, jumped out to hold it with a rope. But the rope broke, and they beheld their commander, alone on the raft, carried with breathless velocity to the rapids, and disappear amidst the foam and rocks. They succeeded in wading to the shore, and set out at once in search of the Prefect, but with little hope of ever seeing him alive. Five days afterwards, on July 11th, while they were holding a parley with some Sirineyri Chunchos, a man emerged from the forest, who proved to be their lost commander. He had succeeded in steering the raft safely through the rapids, but she was afterwards wrecked among some rocks. He reached the shore, but had since suffered terrible privations in the forest, and was exhausted with long fasting. The party advanced for another day, and came to a beach with an island in front, where there were about fifty Chunchos. During the night whistling was heard all round them in the woods. Next day, being desirous of establishing friendly relations, Colonel La Torre crossed in a small canoe, to a shingly beach on the island, bordered by forest, with Dr. Cano, young Caloma, and a soldier. The others watched from the river bank. They saw the little party land and make signs, the savages who were standing on the beach suddenly disappeared among the trees, reappeared with bows and arrows, and surrounded the officers. There were shouts, and reports of revolvers, the savages again disappeared in the forest, and all was silent. It was all over in a few minutes. Captain Chavez plunged into the water and swam to the island, followed by four soldiers. They found the body of Colonel La Torre pierced by thirty-four arrows, and with two blows on the head, each sufficient to cause death. Dr. Cano was also dead. Young Caloma had disappeared. Sorrowfully the survivors returned to Cuzco. Gohring had, however, made numerous valuable ) observations. From a hill he had been able to make out the confluence of the Marcapata with the Amaru-mayu. He constructed a maj) of the region traversed, and collected 300 mineralogical specimens. Since the death of La Torre in 1873, we have no further news of the progress of exploration. The calamities which have overtaken Peru, have checked it for a time. The flower of the youth of that country has had to fight desperately for their fatherland. The bones of many young heroes, who might have continued the work of Ugalde and Maldonado, now whiten the deserts of Tarapaca, and form heart- rending piles on the sandhills of Tacna. There, however, in the ancient capital of the Yncas, is the spirit of enlightened progress still smouldering. The men of Cuzco have worked manfully for geography. They have earned a claim to help from the outer world. Will they not receive it? 322 THE BASINS OF THE AMARU-MAYU AND THE BENI. We have now passed in review all that has been done to explore the main course of the Amaru-mayu river. With regard to its principal tributary, the Ynambari, which, deflected by the off-lying range of hills, flows parallel with the Andes, and receives all the streams of Marcapata and Caravaya, our knowledge is still very ' scanty. The main stream of the Ynambari has never been explored to cr its junction with the Amaru-mayu ; but its head- waters and most of its tributaries are more or less known. The Marcapata ravines, which come next to the Paucartambo valleys (travelling south and east), have been famous, for the last hundred years, for their auriferous deposits. The golden hill of Camanti was first made known in 1788, and in this century companies have been formed to work it. In 1851 Colonel Bolognesi undertook to collect bark in Marcapata, and while in his employment a young Englishman named Backhouse (son of Mr. Back- house, of the Foreign Office, who was on our Council from 1836 to 1841) riost his life in an encounter with the Chunchos. Kext to Marcapata are the beautiful ravines of Caravaya, also famous for their gold- washings, their coca elates, their coffee and fruit, as well as for their chinchona . bark. They have been frequented bj^ traders since the time of the Yncas, and have been the scenes of intelligent enterprises, undertaken by energetic Peruvian capitalists, chief among whom is Don Agustin Aragon. But they have seldom been visited by geographers. In 186-i our Honorary Corresponding Member, Don Antonio Eaimondi, commu- nicated to this Society the results of his exploration of the rivers San Gavan and Ayapata ;* and my paper on the province of Caravaya, written after I had visited the ravines of Sandia and of the Huari-huari, was published in our Joumal.f Senor Eaimondi also made a journey to the gold-mines of Challuma, when he crossed the Huari-huari (Ynambari) river. With the Huari-huari river, in Caravaya, the Amaru-mayu system comes to an end. It is separated from the basin of the river Beni by a bridge called Marun-kunka ; and the first or most western of the Beni tributaries is the Tambopata. The lovely ravine of Tambopata, with its sides clothed with many varieties of chinchonaceous trees, foremost among which is the calisaya, was first visited by Dr. Weddell, the eminent quinologist, in 1846, and in 1860 I penetrated for some distance through its dense forests, to a point some miles beyond the Yanamayu tributar}'. But my duties were not consistent with extended exploration, and Seiior Eaimondi, in 1864, advanced much further, to a place called Putina-puncu, where the two rivers Tambopata and Pablo-bamba unite, both flowing from the Andes \ on either side of a lofty forest-covered ridge. Senor Eaimondi collected information which convinced him that the Tambopata formed the head- waters of the Madidi, the chief tributary of the Beni. The whole course * Journal, vol. xsxvii. p. 116 (with map). f ^^o\. xxxi. p. 190. THE BASINS OF THE AMARU-MAYU AND THE BENI. 323 of this important river has not yet been explored. All the Andean range, ^ from the Tambopata to Cochabamba, sends feeders to swell the volume / of the Beni. Next in importance to the Madidi is the river Maperi, flowing from the bases of the loftiest peaks, Illimani and lUampu, and receiving streams which water the ravine of Tipuani, famous for its gold- washings, and of Coroico, rich in the best species of chinchona trees. The main stream of the Beni comes from the fertile Yungas of La Paz, and is the future outlet for the trade of the commercial capital of Bolivia. ^ Until the voyage of Dr. Heath, the course of the Beni had never ^ ijeen completely explored. Searchers for chinchona bark, and searchers for gold, had penetrated far down the ravines leading to it, and in recent years the collectors of indiarubber had gone to still greater distances ; (^ but the most extensive exploration had been achieved by the missionaries. Much of this good work was done by the College of Moquegua, in Peru, established in viceregal times. One of its disciples. Father Jose Figueira, was in charge of the mission of Cavinas, near the junction of the Beni and Madidi, and in July 1802 he made a voyage on the former river, in the course of which he received distinct information that the Beni united with the Amaru-mayu from Cuzco. A Jesuit mission was established among the Cavinas, near the mouth of the Madidi, in 1827. A missionary named Samuel Mancini was in the basin of the Beni from 1850 to 1864. He actually traversed the region between the Beni and Amaru-mavu, here called the Mayu-tata, reached Sandia in Caravaya, and eventually constructed a map. Colonel Church tells us that two Franciscans whom he knew at La Paz, one named Fidel Codinach, had reached the Amaru- mayu in 1866 by a five days' journey north-west from the mission of Cavinas. f Still the river had never been descended, and the lower and unknown ^ course was so dreaded, that indiarubber collectors actually conveyed all their produce by a roundabout route up the river to avoid it. As regards i the mouth of the Beni, in the river Mamore, an expedition had been sent to ascend its course by the Bolivian Government in 1846, under the command of Don Agustin Palacios. He went up the river for 18 miles, where he found its course obstructed by rocks. Professor Orton, the well-known American explorer, projected the ascent of the Beni in 1877, in company with Mr. Ivon Heath, but his plans were frustrated by a mutiny of his people when within 24 miles of its mouth. Such was the state of knowledge of this interesting river when , Dr. Edwin Heath, brother of Ivon Heath, the companion of Professor Orton, undertook his bold enterprise. Colonel Church truly says that " Dr. Heath is entitled to much praise for his quiet, unobtrusive solution of a problem which has greatly interested the geographical and com- mercial worlds." Dr. Heath is understood to have been once employed professionally in Peru, in the construction of the Aroya railroad, and 324 THE BASINS OF THE AMARU-MAYU AND THE BENI. /^as afterwards similarly employed by tlic contractors of the Madeira J and Mamore railway. Thence he entered Bolivia by ascending the ' Mamore to Exaltacion, and proceeded, by the customary route of the river Yacuma, to Eeyes, near the river Beni. On August 3rd, 1880, Dr. Heath left Keyes to descend the Beni, and visit the indiarubber camps at Cavinas. He embarked in a boat manned by eight Indians with paddles. At every bend there is a sand-bar where animals come from the forest to drink, and in the afternoons jaguars were often seen. While stopping for breakfast, some of the boatmen took the opportunity of making themselves new shirts. A young brazil-nut tree of the proper size was stripped of its bark to a height of eight or 10 feet. This was taken to the river, placed on a log or stone, and beaten with a stick. When free from the outer bark the fibres are opened and form a good cloth. This is then folded in the middle, a space left for the arms, the sides sewn to near the bottom, and a slit cut for the head. When old these shirts are as soft as linen ; and thus easily are the boatmen of the Beni supplied with clothing. At the part of the river reached by Dr. Heath on August 12th, in latitude 12° 45' S., there is danger from savage Chuncho Indians who make incursions every year from the north-west, and kill many of the peaceful Cavinas, dwellers on the Beni. While at breakfast on the 12th the boatmen hastily covered their fires, quickly and noiselessly went to their boat, and crossed to the opposite side of the river. They answered Dr. Heath's inquiry, who was surprised at their evident fear and caution, by pointing to smoke curling up through the forest near the camp, and repeating the simple word barharos — savages. Next day the boat passed the mouth of the Madidi in latitude 12° 33' 13" S.; a o-reat tributary which causes a perceptible increase in the quantity of water in the river. The mission of Cavinas is two days' pull up the Madidi. On the 24th Dr. Heath arrived at Maco in 12° 17' 25" S., which is 110 miles from Eeyes in a straight line, and 217 from the mouth of the Beni ; but by the river it is 234 miles from Eeyes. Here the plague of sand-flies and mosquitos becomes severe. On this part of the river there are several indiarubber camps, where the Bolivian collectors are assisted by families of Pacavara Indians, who make plantations of maize, yuca, bananas, and sugar-cane. These people pierce the septum of the nose, and thrust in feathers from each side, at a distance making them look as if they had huge moustaches. In their ears they wear the eye teeth of alligators. Their complexion is almost white, and the women, if dressed as civilisation requires, would for the most part be beautiful. They differ from other Amazonian tribes by reason of the rapidity of their movements and conversation. On the 19th the boat passed the outlet of a large lake called the Mamore-bey (from mamore, a fish, and hey, a lake), where the Pirarucu is THE BASINS OF THE AMARU-MAYU AND THE BENI. 325 found, and only in this lake, after leaving the falls of San Antonio in Brazil. The banks of the lake are rocky, and in the next bend of the river below it, the rocks jut out, on the south side, nearly to half the width of the river. Eising almost perpendicular above these rocks is a red clay bank 40 feet high. On the 30th Dr. Heath reached a camp where the indiarubber trees were large and numerous, there being over 10,000 trees in a space of five miles square. Eemainiug with the indiarubber collectors until September 27th, Dr. Heath then accompanied one of them. Dr. Vaca, down the river. Eeaching the camp of Seuor Eudara, another rubber collector, his project of continuing the descent of the Beni was encouraged by Mrs. Eudara. "When the Pacavara boatmen appeared alarmed at the idea, she said to them " Go with the Doctor, and the Creator will protect you." He continued the voyage in a boat with two Pacavaras. The boat was a most rickety craft, only three fingers' breadth out of the water. On October 6th it was hot and sultry. At 1.10 p.m. a hurricane struck them. Massive trees were wrenched from their sites and hurled many feet ; it was a grand spectacle but was over in fifteen minutes. On October 28th, Dr. Heath arrived at the mouth of the Amaru- mayu, in latitude 10° 51' 42" S. On a sand-bar in the middle there were some capybaras wallowing on the edge of the river. They merely raised themselves on their fore-feet, and wondered at the strangers. The Amaru-mayu was here 785 yards wide, the Beni only 243. The depth of the Amaru-mayu, at its shallowest place, was 40 feet. Five miles below, the united stream spreads out to a mile in width, the current running three to five miles an hour. Only twice had civilised men ever emerged from that Amaru-mayu mouth ; the troops of the Ynca Yupanqui in the fifteenth century, and Maldonado with his band of gallant youths of Cuzco in 1866. Encamping late in the afternoon on a beach, the alligators were found to be numerous and much too familiar. Dr. Heath had found the meat of spider monkeys to be tender and excellent, and, to keep his supply safe, he put it at the head of his bed and partly under his blanket. Towards morning he was awakened by feeling something near him, and soon after heard a plunge into the river. Springing to his feet he found that an alligator had carried ofi" his meat. Looking round he saw a large jaguar not 20 feet fi'om him, which had just dug up a nest of turtle eggs. Having finished them, he marched back into the forest. On the 9th they met a porpoise. Their absence is an indication of impassable falls, so that this creature was a hopeful sign. The mosquitos now became dense and excessively voracious. At 10 a.m. they came to a rapid, but passed between the rocks with ease. An hour afterwards they were stopped by a line of rocks across the river. On the south side a smooth rock was found, and the boat was drawn over to the waters below which were very turbulent. It was with great difficulty 326 THE BASINS OF THE AMARU-MAYU AND THE BENI. that they prevented the boat from being dashed to pieces. It began to f leak badly, necessitating frequent baling. Next day they sighted the <^ hills corresponding to the Palo Grande Fall on the Mamore, which was already well known to Dr. Heath. He informed the Indians of their position. " Then," said one of them, " there is hope of our not losing our lives. Let us call the fall ' Esperanza ' (Hope) since passing that we have hopes of living." Until that moment he had been tinder the impression that his days were few and numbered. Dr. Heath's success had been complete. He had been the first explorer to descend the Beni to its mouth. But he had done much more. He had mapped the whole course of the river with the greatest care, measured widths and depths, calculated volume and velocity of current, and taken astronomical observations. He had achieved an exploit for which he deserves the highest credit; and had done geographical work with care and ability, which is of real importance, in the face of great difficulties. He determined to return to Bolivia by ascending the Mamore to Exaltacion, a distance of 325 miles. Thence he took the route by the river Yacuma, and once more arrived at Kej'^es by the 11th of December. He received a fitting reception. Bells were rung, houses decorated, a holiday proclaimed, school children met him outside and escorted him into the town, and there was a special mass. All the people seemed to consider his work as a public benefit. ^ Dr. Heath's descent of the Beni has given an extraordinary stimulus to the indiarubber trade. Previously 185 men were engaged in collect- ing on the Beni, who gathered 104,000 lbs. in 1880. Within four months after his return to Eeyes there were 644 men engaged, and now there are probably many more. When the Beni and Amaru-mayu are opened for commerce, the yield of indiarubber will be enormous, for all the vast plains are covered with the trees. Coffee, cacao, brazil-nuts, formerly only collected for home use, will be largely exported. Yanilla beans used to be left to rot on the trees. Ipecacuanha, cinnamon, copaiba, matico abound, but never were collected for want of the means of export. This is the region of the chinchona bark richest in quinine. Hides, deer, jaguar, and sloth skins would also be articles of export. This region, too, is the home of the cardenal, of several species of crax and penelope, of the curassow, of the ant-bear, armadillo, peccary, tapir, and several kinds of monkeys. In April, Dr. Heath again left Eeyes, and ascended the whole course of the river of La Paz, reaching the city of La Paz on July 25th, 1882. We have now passed in review the efforts which have been made to explore these two great rivers, the Amaru-mayu forming an outlet for the Peruvian city of Cuzco, and the Beni forming an outlet for the Bolivian city of La Paz. Both have been navigated to their mouths once and only once; the Amaru-mayu by Maldonado and the young r 33\ \ EXPLORATION OF THE RIVER BENI IN 1880-1. 327 Peruvian explorers in 1866, the Beni by Dr. Heath in 1881. Both need further examination, and many important parts of the splendid region which they drain are still unknown. We want an accurate description f~oi the great lake of Eogoaguado. The courses of the Madidi and of the ^Ynambari remain to be discovered, and of many other great rivers. Here then is a magnificent field for the explorer, as interesting geo- graphically and historically, as it is important from a commercial point of view. There should be a helping hand to the gallant men of Cuzco, the ancient capital of the Yncas, to realise the brilliant dreams of Bovo de Eevello. There should be willing aid to the people of La Paz, to the dwellers round the sacred lake, to open their hitherto closed up doors and let in the light of civilising commerce. In no part of the world can the exploring geographer find a nobler field for his exertions than on the grand rivers which traverse the virgin forests of the Yncas. Exiiloration of the Biver Beni in 1880-1. By Edwin ]X. Heath, m.d. Map, p. 376.* In 1869 or 1870 reports coming from Cavinas that the indiarubber tree grew in that place, two Bolivians, Francisco Cardinas and Pablo Salinas, went there and obtained specimens of the rubber, which they sent to Europe. The quality proving excellent, a few men entered into the business of rubber-gathering, but confined their operations to the region about Cavinas. On arriving at Eeyes, near the river Beni, I could obtain very little information regarding the river I hoped to descend. Ten months' resi- dence at Eeyes only made the undertaking appear next to impossible. An opportunity presenting of visiting the indiarubber camps at Cavinas, 1 left Eeyes on August 3rd, 1880, for the river Beni, distant 12 miles. The first league was open prairie, then came nine miles of dense forest, with mud six to eighteen inches deep. The carts had been sent early on the morning of the 2nd, arriving the evening of the 4th. These carts returning carried rubber, but required four days to reach Eeyes. There the rubber is sewed up in hides in packages of 150 to 200 lbs. It is then transported in carts to the river Yacuma 57 miles, then in boats to Santa Ana, and other boats down the Mamoru and Madeira rivers to San Antonio, Brazil, where the monthly Amazons steamers receive it and deliver it to the rubber houses at Para. The time i'equired to transport the rubber from the camps at Cavinas to the port * This map is from Dr. Heath's own reduction of his surveys. Copies of his large- scale survey maps of the river, made from the originals lent to us for the purpose, are deposited in the map-room of tlie Society. The reduced map can only be considered as provisional, until the whole of Dr. Heath's great survey can be published on a scale large enough to show the detail of the rivers. 85268 328 EXPLORATION OF THE RIVER BEXI IN 1880-1. rof Eeyes varies from 25 to 50 days. One can realise wliat dread there must have been of the unknown course of the river lower down, to cause such a circuit and loss of time. Eeference to the map will assist one in realising this condition of the trade routes in August 1880. On the 6th, the boat being loaded at 10 a.m. the eight Indians dipped their paddles, and the voyage down the Beni commenced. At 4.17 p.m. . the mouth of the small stream Seyuba was passed, and camp was made soon after on a sand-bar in front. The Seyuba rises in mountains at _ Tumupasa, and the Tacana Indians living there follow it to its mouth, in their yearly visit to the Beni, to fish and collect turtle eggs on the sand-bars. Their indications of the position of the town of Tumupasa, with the mouth of the Seyuba, gave me my first idea regarding the error of the geographical position of that town. The day had become overcast, and at 8 p.m. the wind suddenly changed from north-west to the south, blowing with great violence. At I 9 P.M. the rain began to pour ; towards morning it turned to drizzle, I with a stiff breeze ; the thermometer fell from 9i° to 62° Fahr. The 7th of August was passed under shelter. On the 8th, although it still rained at times and the thermometer stood at 62^, orders were given to advance, and the Indians taking off their only covering, a bark shirt, took their paddles, shivering with cold. At 2*45 p.m. the mouth of the little river Tarene, emptying into the Beni from the west, was passed. Its _ mouth represents the port of the town of Ysiamas. During the afternoon various jaguars were seen on the sand-bars, and camping at 6 p.m. the ground was found covered with their footprints. August 9th, the river and its bends became wider, with a current of one to two miles per hour. .,- 10th. — At 7 A.M. the river Enaporera was passed, at 8.56 a.m. the ^ Tequeje, and at 2 . 20 p.m. the Undumo. These streams, 30 to 50 feet wide at low water and 8 to 10 feet deep, empty into the Beni from the west. The night being favourable, an observation for latitude was made, using a triangle Aust., giving 13^ 12' 15" S. lat. ; the lower part of Eeyes being in S. lat. 14° 15' 56". llth. — Many jaguars seen to-day. At 4,2 p.m. stopped in the mouth of the river Negro. It was 100 feet wide, 20 feet deep, without current at its mouth. This river had been partly ascended by a Frenchman, who reported the alligators so vicious that he had to return. There being no good j)lace to camp, the descent was continued until 5 . 3 p.m. The clouds prevented an observation. 12th. — While at breakfast the Indians hastily covered their fires, quickly and noiselessly went to their boat, and immediately crossed to the other side of the river. Surprised at this evident fear and caution, they answered our inquiry as to the cause by pointing to smoke curling up through the forest near our camp and saying the simple but expressive word harharos, their word for savages. We learned afterwards that every year this region is visited by a savage and warlike tribe of EXPLORATION OF THE RIVER BENl IN 1880 1. 329 cannibals, who live in the north-west, and who kill many of the Cavinas Indians. Current two miles per hour. Camped in S. lat. 12^ 45' 27". ISth. — Killed three large spider monkeys, called by the natives marimonos. A large fire being made they were thrown in the flames, which singed their hair and blistered the skin, making it easy to clean off. When scraped they appear like naked white children. An elevated platform of green poles is made over embers, and the monkeys placed entire upon them, where they are roasted. The food is rich, and preferable to all others as soon as one learns to forget their resemblance to human beings. Early in the morning we passed the little brook called Santa Clara, j the old port for the mission of Cavinas, The next bend below has a high \ red bank, the first high land since leaving Eeyes. In former years, a (_tribe of Guarayo Indians had a village on this high ground. They are now extinct or moved to other parts. At 12.22 p.m. we passed the arroya Vira. About 4 p.m. the river being very low exposed some rocks and ''made a strong current, needing care to pass. At 4 p.m. stopped at Santa Eosa, the first place where rubber was collected, now deserted for better jlaces below. At 5.15 passed the mouth of the river Madidi in S. lat. ''12° 33' 13". This is the first important tributary of the lower Beni and causes a perceptible increase in the quantity of the water in the river. Two days' rowing up the Madidi brings one to the mission of Cavinas. 14//j. — Passed Todos Santos and San Antonio, arriving at our destina- tion, Maco, at 2.8 p.m. in S. lat. 12° 17' 25*5", distant in right line 110 miles from Eeyes, 117 miles from port of Eeyes, 217 miles from the jnouth of the Beni. Distant by river from the port of Eeyes 234 miles. Time of descent, 58 hours and 30 minutes. I had the good fortune to find the proprietor of Maco ready with boats and men to descend the Beni in search of a new rubber place. Accepting a place in his boat my voyage was resumed on the 16th. At 1 .8 p.m. we stopped to take coffee at Sinosino, and camped for the night at San Jose, another rubber camp in S. lat. 12° 07' 33". The bank of Sinosino was nearly 50 feet above the river. The river from Maco begins now to gain direction eastward. Sand-flies, maruims, and tahanos, black and yellow, make the days intoler- able, while the mosquitos by night give no rest. 17th. — We passed San Juan, Santo Domingo, California, Etea, San Lorenzo, camping at 12.30 a.m. on the 18th at Santa Ana, the last rubber camp. Here we found a family of Pacavara Indians who were living with Don Fidel Eudara and helping him to collect rubber and make plantations of rice, corn, yuca, bananas, sugar-cane, and build houses. Both men and women pierce the septum of the nose through which they thrust feathers from each side, at a distance making them appear as having heavy mustachios. They wear in their ears the eye-teeth of alligators. Their complexion is almost white, and the females, if dressed No. VI.— June 1883.] z 330 EXPLORATION OF THE RIVER BENI IN 1880-1. as civilisation requires, -would be for the most part beauties. Their movements and conversation are rapid, differing from all other Amazonian tribes I ever met. Their mode of counting is by closing the hands, and as each finger is opened, saying nata. When the ten fingers are finished they say ecJiasu. Needing more niimbers, they repeat vat a with each toe, and again repeat echasu at the close. Thus using fingers and toes they continue until the number is reached. 18th. — At 2.20 P.M. we resumed our march, Don Fidel Eudara accom- panying us, having two Pacavara Indians as part of his crew. Camped on_a sand-bar near the mouth of the Jenejoya river. 19^7*. — Passed the Jenejoya, a river 200 feet wide and 20 feet deep. About six miles up this river is the village of the Pacavara Indians. About 10 A.M. we passed an arroya (little stream), the outlet of a large lake called by the Indians Mamorebey, from mamore, a fish, and beij, a lake, the Pirarucii being found there and only there on the Beni. The banks on the north side at Mamorebey are rocky, and on the south side, the next bend below, the rocks jut out nearly to half the width of the river. Eising almost perpendicularly above these rocks is a red clay bank 40 feet high. On an island, two bends below the clay bank, we saw a number of capybaras feeding. We succeeded in killing one. More than half the weight of the living animal is water, and the meat is unpalatable till dried. 21sf. — We advanced a little, remaining in our new camp till the 23rd. Senor Vasquez, whose guest I was, resolved to remain at this point. After much persuasion, I succeeded in getting a boat with nine Indians placed at my service. Accompanied by two Bolivians, we resumed our descent. 24:th. — At 11.35 A.M. we passed the Jeneshuaya, a river equal in size to the Jenejoya. From this point our Pacavara Indians gavo indications of fear to go any further down the river, and this fear communicated itself to my companions. 25th. — After advancing slowly all day we camped at 5.43 p.m., the Indians refusing to advance further. This was in S. lat. 11° 11' 29", 47 hours 16 minutes actual voyage from Maco. My calculations gave the mouth of the Beni as being 143 miles distant in a right line. Pleading did no good, and on August 2Gth we began to retrace our course up stream, reaching on the 30th unexpectedly a large clearing, where we found Senor Vasquez. He called his new place " Concepcion." The rubber trees here were large and numerous, there being more than 10,000 trees in a space of five miles square. On the 12th of September we again arrived at Maco. On the 21st three of us started, opposite Maco, to cut our way through the forest on the south bank as far as the pampas. We began at 6 A.M., each taking the lead in turn, and cutting vines and underbush till we were tired. In four hours we reached the open pampas, but it EXPLORATION OF THE RIVER BENI IN 1880-1. 831 took us only fifteen minutes to return. This will convey some little idea of travel through the Amazons forest. I ascended the river a few days afterwards to San Antonio, and there met nineteen Arauna Indians, who lived on the Madre de Dios, north and west of San Antonio. These Indians do not pierce their ears and nose. Small of stature, ugly featured, one could readily believe them to he cannibals. Three years previous, Dr. Vaca, owner of San Antonio, had purchased a boy of this tribe, who now speaks Spanish and serves as interpreter. Through him, as interpreter, we learned they considered the descent of the Beni to its mouth impossible. Dr. Vaca, I found, had provisioned boats, and sent them down the river to select sites for new rubber camps, and afterwards to descend ten days' journey beyond the furthest point I had reached on my former attempt. Dr. Vaca himself was going to follow, on a visit to his rubber station called California, where ho had a small boat which he would let me have for my voyage down the river. I was not long in determining to join his party. On the 27th of September, with Dr. Vaca and nine Arauna Indians, in addition to our native crew, we began the downward voyage. Don Antenor Vasquez sent with me one of his Indians, one who had been my body servant on my last voyage. He, the Indian, volunteered to go with me, even though every one tried to dissuade him. Sept. 28